Embroidered Fabric for a Man's Waistcoat Front

France

1780s

Medium
Silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk thread in individual back, outline, running, satin, split and stem stitches; couching; laid work and French knots
Classification
Costume and Accessories
Dimensions
104.5 × 55.8 cm (41 1/8 × 22 in.)
Culture
France
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago, Textiles
Credit line
Purchased with funds provided by Mrs. John V. Farwell, III
Rights
Public domain (CC0), as the museum states it.
Who can see it
Tweens profiles and older: its subjects are known and suit older children. How works are placed

View at the Art Institute of Chicago

About this work

This length of white silk was designed to be cut into a man's waistcoat. European men wore waistcoats, or vests, with jackets and knee breeches. Fashion dictated that the design and color of the waistcoat fabric should contrast with the matching suit. (The back of the waistcoat, which is not included here, was typically made from a cheaper cloth since it was not visible when worn under the jacket.)

The layout of the embroidered pattern pieces was planned to save fabric. The embroidery delineates the cut of the garment, including pointed pocket flaps, and forms small red and blue circles, which were intended as button covers. Colorful floral sprigs, bouquets, and delicate landscapes encircled by leafy wreaths produce a lively yet elegant pattern. Fabric needs to be kept taut while it is embroidered, so it is stretched on a rectangular frame, and it is easier to do this before the fabric is cut into the pieces of the garment.

Description © Art Institute of Chicago, CC BY 4.0