Cope

England

1490-1525, with later restoration

Medium
Silk cut and voided velvet, linen appliqué, silk and gilt metallic thread embroidery, and metal spangles
Classification
Religious/Ritual Object
Dimensions
160.7 × 291.2 cm (64 1/4 × 114 5/8 in.)
Culture
England
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago, Textiles
Credit line
Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment
Rights
Public domain (CC0), as the museum states it.
Who can see it
Tweens profiles and older: its subjects are known and suit older children. How works are placed

View at the Art Institute of Chicago

About this work

The production of textiles for churches—hangings, altar frontals, and liturgical vestments—was a thriving industry in Europe from the twelfth century through the eighteenth century. Among the finest ecclesiastical vestments is this resplendent velvet cope, a semicircular cloak worn as an outer garment in processions or during special ceremonies by a priest or bishop. The elegant needlework was called opus anglicanum (English work). Surrounding the cope’s central image of the Assumption of the Virgin, rendered in silk and gold threads, are seraphim standing on wheels, thistles, fleurs-de-lis, and double-headed eagles—all connected by tendrils animated by spangles. Old Testament prophets and New Testament saints with their attributes alternate on the orphrey band, which runs the full width of the work. Saint Paul is depicted on the hood, which rests on the back of the cope, while an image of God holding an orb decorates the morse, or closure. The brown-velvet ground is an unusual color for vestments of this style; it may have faded from purple or crimson.

Description © Art Institute of Chicago, CC BY 4.0