Woman's Long Shawl, by Antony Berrus, 1870s
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Woman's Long Shawl

Antony Berrus (Probably France)

1870s

Medium
Wool and cotton, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of warp-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill weave; patterned areas of two layers, plain weave and plain weave with seven-color complementary wefts, floats trimmed on…
Classification
Costume and Accessories
Dimensions
359.4 × 158.8 cm (141 1/2 × 62 1/2 in.)
Culture
France
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago, Textiles
Credit line
Bequest of Mrs. Scott S. Durand
Rights
Public domain (CC0), as the museum states it.
Who can see it
Tweens profiles and older: its subjects are known and suit older children. How works are placed

View at the Art Institute of Chicago

About this work

These boldly patterned shawls illustrate the broad appeal of the buta, or paisley, pattern. The Jacquard mechanism, a patterning technology introduced in the first decade of the 1800s, enabled European manufacturers to create increasingly complex variations on the paisley motif. Although this technology allowed for faster weaving, European companies never successfully reproduced the delicacy of the hand-woven shawls from Kashmir. British- and French-made shawls tended to be thicker and heavier and the designs were arguably less refined than the original Kashmir garments.

Description © Art Institute of Chicago, CC BY 4.0