The Alpine Journal Vol 40 1928

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This is a reproduction of a library book that was digitized by Google as part of an ongoing effort to preserve the information in books and make it universally accessible. Google books https://books.google.com

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THE ALPINE JOURNAL Vou. 40, Nos. 236 anp 237

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THE ALPINE JOURNAL A RECORD OF MOUNTAIN ADVENIURE: S| AND : SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION . “ a ed BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB VOL. 40 1928 (Nos. 286 anv 2387) EDITED BY KE. L. STRUTT LONGMANS, GREEN AND CO. LTD. 89 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, E.C.4 NEW YORK, TORONTO BOMBAY, CALCUTTA AND MADRAS 1928

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Made in Great Britain

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CONTENTS PAGE ALPINE ACCIDENTS IN 1928 __. : : ; : . 416 ALPINE CLUB Exhibitions Photographic. : , : : : . 146 Pictures . : ; ; : : ; ; . 3862 Library : : ; ; : : . 435 Proceedings . : ; : ; ; . 217, 456 ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. Alps, the, The New Frontiersin. By E. Foa . : . 292 Alps, Italian, Closing of the, Note on : ‘ : ] Arves, The Aiguilles d’. ByC. Wilson . ; . 12 Blanc, Mt., The First Ascent of, direct from the Brenva Glacier, and other Climbs in 1927. By F.S.Smythe 58 Brenva, Col. de la: Aig. The, de Leschaux. By R.O. Ward 45 British Ski Year Book, The, 1927 ed. A. Lunn . ; . 207 Crete (1925, 1926, 1927). By G. P. Baker : . 243 Dauphiné and the Aig. Méridionale d’Arves in 1899. By y the late Miss G. Bell. . 3 Dom, the, E. Face Routes of, Notes on. "By 0. K. Williamson : : . 352 Drus, Aigs. des, and Pautersarhori: Bi y the late Miss G. Bell : : 234 Kiger, the, N. Face of, The Descent of. By C. A. Macdonald 329 Gesner, Conrad, A Portrait Medal of. By J. M.Thorington 145 Godfathers, The, of Fortunatus. By R. L. G. Irving. . 37 Grande Casse-Grande Motte Traverse: A Correction . 114 Iceland, The Mts. of, Some Journeys ai By A. Murray. : . 85 Israel, The Mts. of. By W.T. Elmslie. . 338 Jungfrau, the, The Thioly and Pilkington Routes up, in 1862. By J.P. Farrar : 357 Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. By R. C. Wilson : Kilimanjaro in 1927. By Miss S. Macdonald . : e 44 Knots forClimbers. ByC.E.I.Wright and J. E. Magowan 120, 340 Lyskamm, The N.E. Face of, Note on... : . 115 Midi, Dents du, La Haute Cime des, Notes on , . 351 * A oe

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vi Contents. ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c.—cond. Monch, The, as a Point for Scientific Observation. By G. von Salis : Mojstrovka, the, The S.E. Face of. B, y Mrs. Copeland PAGE 359 331 Morocco, The Mts. of: The High Atlas. By J. de Lépiney 221 Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions, Some. By E.H. F. Bradby : 304 Mystery Mt. By W. A. D. Munday 99 Oberland, the, A Journey through and to Chamonix in 1787. The Journal of Mrs. M. Beaufoy, ed. J. M. Thorington 261 Ochs, The, or Klein Fiescherhorn. ‘By H. Bowyear . 118 Off Days on an Empire Tour. By L.C. M.S. Amery. . 108 Olympus Mt., An International a By W. Jd. Ellison : : ; . 104 Note on. 101 Paulin Aneroid, The. By F. Skantze 360 Pyrenees, the, A Flight over. By W. M. Conway 325 Signalkuppe, the, The Eastern Aréte of. By M. M. Strumia 315 Simler’s ‘ Vallesiae Descriptio et de Alpibus Commentarius’ : The History of the De Thou Copy. a J. M. Thorington 141 Twenty Years After. By y T. G. Longstaff 281 CoRRESPONDENCE Re Ascents of Kilimanjaro 454 Re The Letters of G. Bell ; : ; ‘ : . 462 Re Ski-Runners _.. : : : : . 213, 214 CoRRIGENDA TO No. 235 192 No. 236 456 DEATHS 410 EXPEDITIONS New. ; : : , ; . 163, 372 Various : ; j } : : : . 175, 386 In MEMORIAM Bainbridge-Bell, Rev. F. C. 365 Howard, E. : 150 Lamb, R. 159 Montague, C. E. 369 Mumm, A. L. 154 Neame, G. H. 368 Regaud, F. 371 Richardson, Miss K. 160 Simond, A. (guide) 162 Tribe, W.N. 366 Wainewright, J. H. 15]

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Contents. Vil NOTES PAGE Alpine . ; ; . 177, 398 Canadian and American . : : : . 195, 414 Himalayan . : ; ; . 192, 410 New Zealand . ; : : . 195 Reviews AND Notices... ; . ; : . 200, 426 A.A.C, Bern, Report, 1927 __.. 430 Alpine Club Register, The, 1857 to 1863 (Mumm, Compiler 426 Among the Alps with Bradford (Washburn) 212 Appalachian Mt. Club Bulletin, June 1928 , . 433 Cairngorms, The (Alexander) . 427 C.A.S., Les Cabanes du, en 1927 (ed. Central Committee, CAS.) . ; 431 Derniéres Campagnes (Coste) , . 427 Derniers Souvenirs de |’ Alpe (Gallet) ; . 209 History, A, of Ski-ing (Lunn) . : . 206 Italian Alps, Under the ( Broadbent) : . 426 Italy, Alpine Valleys of (Broadbent) , 426 Journal of H.-B. de Saussure. Le Mont Blanc et le Col du Géant (Annotateurs, Gaillard et Montagnier). . 200 Jubiliumsschrift (Sporthaus, Fritsch & Co.) —.. . 430 Ski-ing, The Art of (Dahinder) 428 Sport and Travel in the Highlands of Tibet (Hayden & & Cosson, introd. Younghusband) . 205 Structure, The, of the Alps (Collet) . ; 210 Vette: Ricordi di Esplorazionie Nuove Ascensioni Sulle Alpi, nei Gruppi del Monte Rosa, del Cervino, e del Monte Bianco dal 1896 al 1921 (Gugliermina (due) e Lam- pugnani) . 211 Wengernalp und Jungfrau- bahn, Chronik der, Vol. II (ed. Gurtner) . 431 Zermatt, Familien- Statistik ain '“Geachichtliches: ‘iber (Kronig) : : ‘ : ; . 434

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INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Alcazaba and Mulhagen. : : ; : . opp. 41 Alto, Campanile ; ; . 170 Argentiére, Aig. d’ Ice-Clif on. . opp. 148 Arves, Aigs. de. 3 21, 22, & opp. 9, 14, 15, 18, 19 Askiphu, Defile of . opp. 246 Austabottind, Store . : : : : » 176 Blanc, Mt., Brenva Face . ‘ : . 68and opp. 74 and its Glaciers (from print). . opp. 279 Upper Sérac Wall of . ; » 15 Blanc, Mt. de Courmayeur and Mt. Blanc , : » oD Blanche, Dent, N. aréte ; ; . ; ; » oll from E. : , : , . 317 Bow Lake (in colour) : ; . opp. 1 Brenva Ridge . ; : ; : , , » 93 Casemate, Mt. : : . opp. 384, 385 Cathkin . ; ; . opp. 397 Chardonnet, Aig. du . : ; », 164 Dames Anglaises and Bréches ; ; , » 65 Dolent, Col, and Aig. du Triolet . : . ’ : » 146 Dom, The : . : : ; ; . 3854 Dru, Grand. : ; : : ; . opp. 237 ‘Zon . ., ; : . 237 Petit . ‘ : : . opp. 236 Drus, Aigs. des ; . 235 Ecrins, Les, Grande Raine, and Pic Bourect: &e.. . opp. 7 Kiger, N. Face . : . opp. 329 Facsimile of a paragraph in Mrs. Beaufoy’ s Journal mentioning the Ascent of Mt. Blanc by her husband . ; . opp. 279 Fiescherhérner, The . ; ; . 118 Finsteraarhorn . : 167, ian opp. 168, 169 Fletschhorn.. 379, and opp. 378, 379 Franz Josef Glacier . . opp. 112 Géant, Col du, Ascension d’ 'H. B. de Saussure et de son Fils, Juillet, 1788 (from print) : ; : , - opp. 203 Gendarme, Great (Signalkuppe) . » 95 922

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x Index of Illustrations, Portraits, and Maps. PAGE Godafoss . opp. 94 Grindelwald 5, 269 Grindelwald Glacier, Lower »» 265 Hermon, Mt. 34] High Atlas opp. 231, 233 Himalaya, Kumaon, Passes in opp. 28, 29 Hochgall, N. Face : 300 Ida, Mt. . : » 207 Jalovec ; PP. 162, 179 Jorasses, Petites opp. 53 Jungfrau . . 165, and opp. 166, 358 Thioly and Pilkington Routes on opp. 358 Kailas. ; 24, 26, and opp. 23, 27 Katerina, Jebel. . : : : opp. 339 Kjeerringa »» 176 Kibo and Mawenzi opp. 78, T9 Knots for Climbers opp. 122, 123, 126, 127, 132, 133, 347 Lauterashorn and Schreckhorn . opp. 240 Lauterbrunnen, Valley of . 5» 269 Leschaux, Aig. de » ol Lyskamm. » 115 Mallory, Mt. . , 415 Mallory and Irvine, Mts. ,, 414 Midi, Dents du . opp. 352, 363 Minarets . opp 113 Mojstrovka 332, 334, 337, and opp. 331 Monch. opp. 360 Musa, Jebel », 338 Mystery Mt. » 100 Nanda Devi » oo Nanda Ghungti », 287 Oetzthal Group » 297 Olympus, Mt. Skolion », 107 Throne of Zeus . opp. 106, 107 Peak 21,624 and Upper Icefall of Pindari Glacier . opp. 36 Péteret ‘Aréte . opp. 50, 64 Colde . : opp. 65 and Trident Ridges » 40 Pindari Icefall . » 34 Plan, Aig, du. 58 Redoubt, Group, and Mt. opp. 384, 385 Resegotti Hut . opp. 319 Rosa, Mte. ; » O20 Rottalhorn and J ungfr au 309 Samaria, Gorge of opp. 252, 253 Schreckhorn- Lauteraarhorn Ridge opp. 241 Seekopf, The ‘ » 301

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Index of Illustrations, Portraits, and Maps. xl Signalkuppe Simler’s ‘ Vallesiae Descriptio et de Alpibus Commen- tarius’ in the Perey eee: of De Thou . Skagastélstind, Store Skridutindar, The Sufsafeh, Ras Taillon, Le : Taschhorn and Dom . Thercher Glacier Thorsmark, Near Traill’s Pass Trisul : Thynill, Mt. ; Wengern Alp, The Weisskugel Weissmies Wetterhorn . White Mts., Crete Zillerthal Group Zinal-Rothhorn Zuckerhitl PORTRAITS Bainbridge-Bell, Rev. F. C. Gesner, Conrad peree medal) Howard, KE... : Mumm, ‘A. L. Neame, G. H. Regaud, F. Simler, Josias Simond, A. (guide) Tribe, W. N.. Wainewright, J. H. , with others . MAPS Alps, the, The New Frontiers in . Arves, Aiguilles d’ Crete : Haut Atlas: Toubkal Morocco: Mountains of Nanda Devi Region . Nanda Ghungti : Rotondo (Corsica), Mte. Group ; » 177 » 88 ,, 340 » 40 356 . 380, 381 opp. 247, 256 opp. 298 . 378 opp. 299

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THE ALPINE JOURNAL. MAY 1928. (No. 236.) ‘THe CLOSING OF THE ITALIAN ALPS.’ d haere following is a translation of a note signed by the President of the Italian Alpine Club, printed in the Rivista of the Club (vol. xlvii, Nos. 1-2) im reply to our remonstrance in the last number of the Journal with regard to the annoyances to which English travellers and their guides were subjected in the Italian Alps during the past summer. “In the November number of the “‘ Alpine Journal,’’ No. 285, there appeared an editorial article entitled “‘ Closing the Italian Alps’ and commenting unfavourably on the obstructions to free travel in the Alps and the demeanour of the National Volunteer Militia on the frontier towards foreign mountaineers. The article concludes with a warm appeal to the C.A.I. to interpret the wishes of British climbers to our Government. The matter in discussion is purely political and outside the field of mountaineering and our province. This much is quite clear, and we, as citizens and Fascisti, cannot take part in any discussion on the regulations of the State. We have, how- ever, considered it our duty as good comrades to meet the wishes of our Alpine Club colleagues by sending to H.E. the Head of the Government a note in which, after referring to the importance of the Alpine Club, the oldest of al] Alpine Clubs, and the universal consideration it enjoys, we draw his attention to the contents of the article and the wishes expressed therein. ‘This completes our actual task. But there is one thing of which we can assure our colleagues of the Alpine Club, and that is that General Bazan’s words on “ the efficiency and VOL. XL.—NO. CCX XXVI. B

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2 ‘The Closing of the Italian Alps’ perfect organization of the National Volunteer Militia and its enthusiasm and interest in the military exercises, which were such as to oblige their officers to issue orders enjoining moderation,” cannot in any way have the slightest concern with the relations between the Militia and foreign mountaineers who come amongst us in good faith to visit our Alps. ‘The whole text of General Bazan’s statements (Milizia Fascista, 28 Agosto 1927) refers exclusively, without the ‘: 2". shatlew pf 9 doubt, to the tactical exercises and manceuvres ** of ‘the “Militia, which were carried out in the Varesotto last ; suiniper by four ‘Legion della Lombardia ; indeed, he speaks ne only ‘of‘‘fistraction for maniples (one-third of a cohort), centuries, cohorts, etc., of experiments in the liaison between units, the intervention of the aerial defence forces, of the spirit of self-sacrifice shown by the Militiamen, and of their warlike ardour. Therefore, everything stated to the contrary in the “ A.J.” article is due to erroneous information. ‘Bound as we are by ancient and constant affection to the Alpine Club, we should have been happier if, before making a public appeal, it had applied privately and in friendship to the C.A.I., supposing that it had not, better still, seen fit to turn directly to H.E. the Head of the Government, who has always shown, and still shows, so much affection for our Great Friend, Britain. ‘It only remains for us now to express the sincere hope that, all misapprehension and misunderstanding due to imperfect knowledge of our State regulations, which must necessarily be obeyed without discussion, being eliminated, our British col- leagues will continue to visit our Alps, which they know so well, and. in which their achievements and researches have left imperishable traces. ‘The PresiDEnt of the Club Alpino Italiano.’ We desire, in printing the above communication, to put on record our sincere gratitude to the President of the Club Alpino Italiano for the readiness he has shown to comply with our request by bringing the matter of our remonstrance under the notice of H.E. the Head of the National Government. We feel assured that we may look forward to his H.E.’s known promptitude of action and expressed goodwill to ensure that any regulations which may have incidentally hampered the movements of foreign mountaineers in a region they have for the last fifty years found so much pleasure in frequenting will be

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Dauphiné and the Aiguille Méridionale d’ Arves in 1899. 8 suitably modified. We would ask our Italian friends and colleagues to realize how fully we reciprocate their warm feelmgs and kindly expressions, and how eagerly we look forward to fresh opportunities of renewing old acquaintances with them among the mountains. We will only add that in calling in the friendly aid of the C.A.I. in preference to applying formally through the ordinary diplomatic channels we were influenced by regard for a senti- ment which is not confined to any single country. We refer to the dislike of the official intervention of foreigners in any matter that may possibly be considered from a national point of view as one of internal administration. DAUPHINE AND THE AIGUILLE MERIDIONALE D’ARVES IN 1899. Unpublished Letters from the late Miss Gertrude Bell. [These letters, and possibly one or two more to follow, were not included in ‘ Letters of Gertrude Bell,’ because it was considered by Lady Bell that the Alpine portion of Miss Bell’s life was sufficiently described therein. As the letters are of great interest to mountaineers, we express our gratitude for having been allowed to reproduce them in the JouRNAL.— Eaditor.] La GRAVE, Friday, August 1899. EAREST Father, or rather dearest Family,—It was a great joy when I arrived here to find letters from you all. I got Mother’s postcard also at the Lautaret. I am glad her tour was such a success. Tell her I long to talk to her about Bayreuth. Of course, it has a great deal changed. I must say I felt inclined more than once to regret its former simplicity. Still, we had a good time in a different way. Now I'll tell you my adventures. I drove up to the Lautaret on Wednesday. Starting at 10 one doesn’t get there till 6.80. There were two little old English men on the coach; one was a doctor and H-less, the other walked with me part of the way, till I left him and went on alone to the top of the pass. We had a perfect afternoon and the pass is very magnificent. You see the Aiguilles d’Arves at one point, and the Roche du Galibier stands up in front of

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4 Dauphiné and the Arguille Méridwonale d’Arves in 1899. you all the way. I got to the little hospice on the other side half an hour before the coach and had a cup of very nasty coffee. The man there comes from Le Monétier; I told him of our relations with M. Izoard, and he promised to give him many messages from us. At Lautaret there was Mathon waiting for me with a son, Marius, who is to be my porter and who seems to be an efficient mountaineer and is a nice, civil boy. They have doubled the chalet at Lautaret and they are building another as large. I dined, arranged plans with Mathon and went to bed. At 4 I was called—a glorious morning—so I bustled into my climbing clothes, had some chocolate, and at 5 we started for the Grand Galibier. It is quite a simple little climb. We took 8 hours to get to the top, stayed there an hour and came down in 2 hours by the créte. Mathon had allowed us 8 hours, so it was not bad for a first expedition. But... pas sans peine! It was hard work! I wished to die several times, and I cursed all idiots who climbed mountains. Mathon was very careful and nice. He’s civil and pleasant to deal with. We had a gorgeous view from the top—the whole massif of the Pelvoux, the Aiguilles d’Arves and Mont Blanc. I took 3 photographs. Mathon asked a great deal after you all and especially after Hugo, about whom they were all very anxious to have news. Our old Pic ne marche plus, Léon is doing his service. I was dead beat when we came in, but a bath and lunch restored me, and at 2 we left by the coach for La Grave. It was most amusing arriving. The two good Juges were in a frantic state of excitement and sat with me on the terrace, while I had a cup of tea, talking as hard as they could. Madame Juge, directly we arrived, rushed at Mathon and asked after Hugo. Charles is still here, looking better than formerly, and Térése came presently into my room and fell into my arms. ‘ Vous étes chez vous, Mademoiselle,’ said Madame Juge, and I really am. They killed the fatted calf for me, and as they have a new cook, he was better served up than before. They have made the kitchen behind, and the Salle des Guides in the remise and two sitting rooms on the ground floor, where the kitchen was. They are in great feather, because the Comtesse d’Eu is here with her two sons! There is a rival hotel a little lower down, but they don’t think it will do them any harm as there are lots of tourists. The most interesting person here is a German woman,! who 1 This lady, judging from the list of expeditions published in R.A.D., appears to have been Fraulein Kuntze.—Edutor A.J.

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Dauphiné and the Arguille Méridionale d’Arves in 1899. 5 did the Meije two days ago. I talked to her after dinner and found her very nice. She spends four months of the year regularly climbing, and has her Oberland guide with her. She says there’s a bad corner on the Meije! The snow and the rock are both in exceptionally good state. The mountain has been done three days running—and it’s still wonderful weather. I walked about the village, and saw all our friends ; the shoe- maker is very busy ; Mathon’s old aunt, who lives behind the inn, you remember, flourishing ; the ironmonger has gone, that house having been bought by M. Juge. Harvey and Nichols were delighted to see me, the post office lady was also there. Directly she saw a postcard addressed to me (that was yours) she began to look out for us. They all asked after Hugo and Mother and the children. Aren’t they dear people! I went to bed very early and slept nine hours, after which I felt better. To-day is again glorious, a bright sun and not too hot. I’m only going up to a refuge this afternoon, but I’ve not yet seen Mathon. It lies between the Refuge de la République for the Aiguilles d’Arves, or the Refuge de l’Alpe for the Grande Ruine. I incline to the latter and should in that case go down to La Bérarde afterward. Sur ce, comes in Mathon. We go up to the Alpe to-day, pass over the Clot des Cavales to-morrow, sleep at the Chatelleret and then we shall see how we all feel. There’s a big caravan going to the Refuge de la République to- day, which puts it out of the question. Mathon is frightfully keen to do the Meije,* of course, but I won’t unless I feel up to it. Ever your affectionate daughter, GERTRUDE. La BERARDE, Thursday, August 31, 1899. Dearest Ex1sa,2?—This letter, I think, must be to you as I am going to tell you how I passed over your road of two years ago. We left La Grave on Tuesday at 8.45, I having undergone first a series of cross-questionings which would have done honour to Labori, from an American family, as to all my doings down to how many handkerchiefs I took with me on the mountains! We got up to the Refuge Chancel at 5.45, a most enjoyable two hours up that delicious hillside in a bright sunny evening. The Pics were overjoyed to see § The traverse of La Meije is described in Letters of Gertrude Bell, I, pp. 51-4. * Miss Bell’s sister, Lady Richmond.

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6 Dauphiné and the Arquille Méridionale d’Arves in 1899. me. I found the Refuge somewhat disorganised as they are building a new kitchen. Castillan from the Alpe was there helping. He also greeted me with enthusiasm. There was a wonderful red sunset which did not promise well for the morrow, and the Meije put on a nightcap of cloud. Mme. Pic gave me ourroom. About 7 appeared my two German friends, Paulcke and Lohmiiller. They really are dears, so cheerful and polite and pleasant. We supped and talked till 9, when I went to bed. An agreeable evening. We rose at 8. It was warm with a few clouds, and we thought we might have rain later, still we started at 4 and walked up to the Col 4 in 2} hours, the snow very good. It was a very lovely dawn, the sun playing all kinds of games with tiny cloud wreaths and mists which came floating across the Pic de la Grave and the Rateau; the Meije looked splendid— but I was glad I was not making for that bare rock! On the Col we breakfasted and I parted from my two friends; they went up the Pic de la Grave © and I all down the glacier for an hour to a beautiful plateau on which stands the Refuge du Lac Noir. We had a little light mist, but the day went on improving. Across the valley of the Romanche hung quite a thick band of fleecy cloud with Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles d’Arves putting their heads out through it. From the Lac Noir we had a long and very steep descent, first over rocks, then down very steep grass full of flowers, to the Vallée de la Selle. By taking this road we avoided all that endless éboulis in the Selle Valley, up which you must have come. We got into Saint Christophe a little before 11, very charming it is. JI was touched to find there the grave of my friend Zsigmondy, remembering how difficult I had found it to get off his Bréche on the Meije. He died on the Meye, you remember. I was rather footsore and felt a bruise which I contracted on the Meije, so I bathed my feet 1n salt and water and descended shoeless tolunch. There was a horrid old couple to whom I apologised very politely for my stockinged state, explaining how it was. The man looked at me coldly. .. . I was furiously raging, but I said nothing and contented myself with completely spoiling their lunch, for they were so afraid of being let into addressing me that they did not dare to speak to one another even! When tho dishes were served, they first helped themselves and then the man pushed them rudely 4 Col de la Lauze, 3543 m. 5 According to 8. T. D., this ascent was on August 30, 1899.

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Dauphiné and the Arguille Méridionale d’ Arves in 1899. 7 across to me without a word. Wasn’t it intolerable? They were toddlekins ! After lunch I slept soundly for an hour and started off at 2.80. I must tell you I had most neatly croqueted my luggage, which I had sent round from La Grave and despatched it on its way by a mule, together with all that my guides were carrying. We got here at 4.45—a most delicious walk. There was a little cloud, so that it was not too hot, and the valley of the Vénéon is certainly one of the loveliest that I have seen in Dauphiné. I remember you were very enthusiastic about it. The com- bination of bare peaks and narrow green meadow set with birch trees beneath is quite perfect. I felt extremely brisk and enjoyed myself madly. Altogether this tour is being wonder- fully amusing, far more so than I expected. I have so very little spare time that I scarcely even feel lonely, but the time when I miss my family most is when we are going up some deadly slope of snow or stone, and then I long to have someone to whom I can say ‘ Isn’t it beastly ?’ (Not Mother! She would be shocked !) There was only one other person in the hotel here, a charming old Frenchman. We dined together (and well!) and had an amusing talk. In the end I found that he had been to China and Japan and knew M. Dubail, tell Maurice, so we compared reminiscences at great length and were thoroughly happy. He was the greatest old dear. He left this morning before I was up. Towards the end of dinner came in my two Germans, having had a long but apparently a very pleasant day. We all sat talking while they dined, and then I went to bed and slept the clock round. This morning the weather has improved wonderfully ; it looks quite settled, and we go up this evening to the Refuge du Carrelet. My plan is to do the Barre des Kcrins,® from thence en col, descending on to Ailefroide. The next day to go up to the Refuge de Provence (4 hours), and from thence to do the Pelvoux, returning again to Ailefroide. That is not a hard day as the Refuge is only 4 hours from the summit, but it 1s said to be a very beautiful mountain. Finally, I shall cross the Col de la Temple back here, and the day after, if possible, return to La Grave, taking the Grande Ruine en col on my way. The long day is to-morrow—18 hours at least for the [crins, and it’s all snow, so that if the snow is bad, Heaven knows how many hours we may not spend step-cutting. I am sending $ These expeditions, except, apparently, the traverse of the Grande Ruine, were carried out duly. See A.J. 39, 242-8.

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8. Dauphiné and the Arguille Méridionale d' Arves in 1899. Hippolyte Rodier, the brother of the other, over the Col de la Temple to-morrow with a change of clothes, which I shall thus find at Ailefroide when I arrive. I might possibly be kept there an extra day if I am tired after the Ecrins, and I don’t think I can leave myself absolutely clotheless. I’m not going to send a gown, however. My Germans do the Ecrins to-morrow also. I’m quite glad ; they are very cheerful companions, and it’3 more amusing to have someone to talk to. We don’t climb much together as Mathon knows the way better and generally leaves them behind, but we meet at the halting places. There is said to be one difficult place on the Ecrins, a snow couloir, but it’s all nothing to the Meije. I’ve just been looking at its spiteful old head appearing at the end of the valley. Isn’t this a charming place! I am spending a most peaceful and pleasant morning. Dr. Paulcke has been sitting by at his needle till just now ; he has gone off to draw, I think. They are both twenty-six they have confided to me. Paulcke is on the whole the nicest ; he is going next week to join. . . but this is a dead secret, so don’t mention it! Another dead secret 1s that Lohmiiller is here without leave! He is by way of being in Germany at this moment, so he preserves a strict incognito lest the Emperor should hear of it ! I like the people here. M. Tairraz has been taking down notes of our doings that he may mention ? them in the Rerue des Alpes Dauphinoises to which I have abonnéed myself for a year. It’s 6 francs pour l’étranger. Goodbye; I wish you were here, don’t you? Mathon and Marius continue to be most satisfactory. Oh, I want Papa to advise me—when I pay them what sort of present ought I to make them? I told you Mathon lost his ice-axe on the Meije—would it be suitable if I were to present him with a new one or not? Don't forget to tell me this. I expect Rodier will bring me letters to Ailefroide to-morrow. They are being forwarded from La Grave. I expect to be back there, with luck and good weather, on Tuesday night. Ever your very affectionate sister, GERTRUDE. Ym awfully well, but very thin and very burnt! You must expect to see a dark red stick alighting on Redcar platform. 7M. Auguste Tairraz appears to have forgotten to mention them !

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‘SHAUV.d ATUOASDIV NYAHLIOS AO ADVA “MS “SOWIOH PrssTVy OU

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Dauphiné and the Arguille Méridionale d’Arves vn 1899. 9 La GRAVE, September 7, 1899. Dearest MotuER,—To you this time. I’m sure you must be longing to hear more of crétes and couloirs and pentes de neige ! Well, on Tuesday it was very fine, so I thought it would be well to catch the Aiguilles d’Arves which had been looking at me from afar for so long. I accordingly arranged with Mathon to go up to the Refuge Républicain that afternoon. I spent the morning reading papers and talking to my nice old French couple. At 11 my two dear Germans arrived from Le Monétier and an- nounced that they also were going up to the Refuge that afternoon. So we agreed to go together. It was very hot and we had a short thunderstorm after lunch, but at 3.80 we started, Manius having already gone on with my things and a donkey carrying wood for our fire. Our road lay up the desolate and frankly hideous valley behind Les Hiéres. Moll, Hugo and I drove a little way up it on one memorable occasion! Two very hot hours brought us to the Col, and in a few minutes more we turned a corner (I had begun to think that the Aiguilles d’Arves didn’t really exist) and came upon one of the most singular views I have ever seen. We found ourselves in a great basin which must have once been a lake. The mountains rose so steeply from it that scarcely any grass could grow on them, bare rocks lying in twisted layers. A glacier stream ran through the basin over a very wide stony bed, the end was closed by heaps of stones and the tail of a glacier, and over all towered the two rocky peaks of the Aiguilles d’Arves. In the growing dusk it would be impossible to imagine anything more inhuman or forbidding. I felt inclined to turn tail and run back, till I was encouraged by seeing the dear donkey returning with his man from the Refuge. It was so comforting to see some sign of human life. He came in very handy, the dear donkey, for we met just as I reached the stream, which was wide and deep, so I mounted him and made him carry me over it, arriving at the Refuge dry-footed at a little before 6.80. Marius was already busy cooking the soup eutside.® The Refuge was tiny, we had all to get up from our bench before the door could be opened, but we supped cheerfully and had a good night till 8 a.m. But the nights are cold ; I was ® This hut, Refuge Lyon-Républiquain, after many vicissitudes was destroyed by an avalanche in 1904. La Mentagne, 1928, pp. 89-90.

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10 Dauphiné and the Aiguille Méridionale d’Arves in 1899. distinctly conscious of the fact even though I slept. We were ready to be off by 4, but we waited half an hour longer for the light and left as soon as we could just see our way. It was a perfectly clear, starry morning, fresh and delicious. We went up over stones and névés till we reached the Col Lombard right at the foot of the Aiguille Méridionale (which is the difficult one) at 6. Another half hour over easy rocks and we stopped to rope and eat a little. We were off again at 7, leaving all our baggage and our ice axes on the rocks. Then began a most charming climb up a couloir with a little ice at the bottom of it, but so narrow that we kept to the rocks with a foot on either side. The Germans went first ; they had put on lovely climbing boots with soles made of string. At the top of the couloir we turned a corner and came out face to face with the Aiguille Centrale which has a most impossible aspect, but is quite easily ascended from the other side. We now found ourselves upon some dalles of rock, like the tiles of a roof, lying at a very steep angle, the edge of them disappeared into space. All this rock was delightful to walk on, for the whole Aiguille is made of a sort of conglomerate out of which little stones have been washed away leaving a rough surface with natural holes for one’s hands and feet. We were at the foot of the famous mauvais pas, which consists of an overhanging rock just too high to get up, so that the first man has to mount on the shoulders of the second and help him up subsequently with the rope. I crept along a ledge and photographed the two Germans while they did this—I do hope my two photographs will come out, they will be most interesting. Then it was our turn. I planted myself firmly on a ledge and was unroped; Mathon mounted on the shoulders of Marius and went up with all the rope, 30 ft. orso. When he was well placed he called out to me, I was tied on to the rope, got on to Marius’s shoulders in my turn and climbed up to Mathon. It was most enjoyable. When I got up, I was again unroped, and the end of the rope was let down to Marius. This place is said to be more difficult than anything on the Meiye, but for my part I found the Bréche Zsigmondy far harder. Prob- ably, as I have learnt a good deal since then, I should now think it easier than I did ten days ago, but still, on the Aiguille your guide is straight overhead and the rope taut between you and him, while on the Bréche he 1s round a corner and can't help you much, though I suppose he could catch you if you fell, if the rope held. Another ten minutes of dalles led us on to the ‘ church roof ’

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Dauphiné and the Aiguille Méridionale d’ Arves in 1899. 11 when we were only a few minutes from the summit. One has the best view of the Meije and the Ecrins I have yet seen. We got there ® at 8.15 and left at 8.45. The descent was easier and pleasanter than the ascent. Mathon began by holding the rope so tight that it cut me, but I succeeded in persuading him that I intended to go down by the usual path and he presently left me alone. We got down to the Col at 9.15, and there my dear Germans and I parted. I going down to the Refuge, which I reached at 11.80, and they over another Col and so away to St. Michel. They have been angels, I must say! Paulcke gave me a large pair of woollen gloves, without fingers, as a parting gift, so that I shall not be frost-bitten again.° On the whole I liked the Aiguille better than anything I have done. It was agreeably short and most amusing climbing— all rock which is just what I like, for ’'m getting quite good at it. Whereas if you put me on a piece of ice, I take the very first opportunity of falling flat! Ilunched at the Refuge and slept most peacefully for an hour. We left at 2 and were back here before 8, the walk down being most pleasant, for one had the great Meije with all its snows to look at all the time. There’s not a white man in the hotel (my French couple had left ; I found a most charming message from them on a card saying how they had enjoyed making my acquaintance !), but one Alpinist from Lyons, who knows the country very well and has promised to send me a lot of his photographs. I have been having a long talk with him, the outcome of which is that I have decided on a most promising final expedition. I shall go up to the Refuge de 1’Alpe to sleep, cross the Col de la Pyramide behind it (this Col leads on to the Glacier Blane and is, it seems, most beautiful), make a flank march to the left above the Glacier Blane and so by the Col Tuckett to the Montagne des Agneaux, which is the most eastern of the Pelvoux group. I shall descend by a good glacier to le Monétier and sleep there. I expect it will be a long day, 14 or 15 hours, but I shall take a day or two’s rest first, and my Lyons friend says that the views from the Col de la Pyramide and the Montagne des Agneaux are quite unsurpassed in all Oisans.14 Meantime, alas! my films haven’t come and I used my last yesterday, and the Col has never been photographed, so that it ® The expedition is duly recorded in S. T. D., without the mention of the day or month. 10 Cf. A.J. 89, 245. 11 Tt is uncertain whether this expedition was carried out or not.

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12 The Arguilles d’ Arves. would have been real fun to have had them. Isn't it a pity! I mean to leave here on Tuesday or Wednesday, depending on when I get this last expedition through. I’m rather keen about it. Oh, dear! this has been fun! : GERTRUDE. (To be continued.) THE AIGUILLES D’ ARVES. Some Notes and Memories. By CLAUDE WILSON. A Nae lamentable accident which, on July 81, 1927, deprived many of us of an irreplaceable friendship, and lost to the Club one of its most valued and distinguished members, has been followed, as was inevitable, by many consequences. Probably the least expected among these was the singular discovery that no Englishman now living had any knowledge worth having of the topography of the district, or more than the scantiest acquaintance with the various routes by which these summits have been reached. I had been twice up the 8. Aiguille, and had descended once by the KE. face, up which Mr. Bicknell’s party were forcing their way when the accident happened. My climbs were made more than thirty years ago, and we had good reason for hurrying down to Valloire without much pause for looking back. My memory of the E. face, apart from certain vivid incidents, was hazy. Consequently, I wrote to those who I thought might know more, with the strange result that there appeared to be no one who knew even as much. The Editor, who was one of my correspondents, pointed out that, though there were numerous allusions, no ‘ paper’ upon the Aiguilles d’Arves had ever appeared in the pages of the ALPINE JoURNAL. This was clearly a case which called for remedy, and the onus was placed upon my shoulders. I have found the investigation full of interest, though fraught with unexpected difficulties. I asked for a map, but it appeared that neither the Alpine Club nor the map-shops of London could help me, and I was eventually supplied with an enormous and much dilapidated } sheet kindly lent by the 1 The French 1:80,000 map, uncoloured—a _lugubrious production.—£uitor.

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The Arguilles d’Arves. 18 Royal Geographical Society. Unrolled and held down by weights upon a billiard table, there was no difficulty in dis- covering the Mont Cenis railway and the principal roads ; but no light whatever was shed on any of the details | was seeking. A search in my own library discovered some interesting and helpful historical material, and I was directed by the Editor to vol. vi (1910) of La Montagne, which contains some eighty closely printed pages by M. Jean Capdepon, in which the geology, topography, history and bibliography of these peaks are very fully discussed. From this and other sources I have evolved the scheme map and topographical sketches reproduced in this paper. The sketches, though based on various photographs, must be regarded as diagrammatic. The scale is not quite uniform, and faults of detail are numerous.

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14 The Aiguilles d’ Arves. Had I not been so fortunate as to secure the co-operation of Mr. Willink, I should hardly have had the temerity to undertake a task for which I was so ill-prepared ; but I am sure that my own shortcomings will be forgiven and that I shall earn the thanks of my fellow members in having secured these unique illustrations. As has been noticed by all observers, Mr. Willink’s activities bear a striking resemblance to those of Washington Irving’s legendary hero. ‘ Winkle’ is, of course, merely the Dutch equivalent of ‘ Willink’; and philologists are agreed that the initials H. G. and R. V. are interchangeable. With all such immortals ‘ Time ’ is a vague affair. Their periods of sleeping and waking are not divided by days and nights, but rather by decades, or even centuries ; and the working of such minds is not to be measured by ordinary standards. My letter found Mr. Willink on the point of wakening from a sleep of several years’ duration. But he was sufficiently awake to reply, and asked what sort of clothes we wore in those days —because he ‘ didn’t care to invent clothes.’ He appeared to be greatly surprised and somewhat confused by sketches of the ready-made-tailor-catalogue-type which I sent; and in a state which suggested semi-consciousness “Oh,’ he replied ‘I thought you would be thushow,’ and I received the sketch which is reproduced (without his permission) at the end of this paper. This lack of permission also applies to the thumb-nail sketch, received later and incorporated into the text at the psychological spot. Supplied with further material, Mr. Willink became more and more awake and more alive, and, after having dined at the annual dinner in December, produced the terrifying drawings which will confer immortality upon this number of the ALPINE JOURNAL. The three peaks which form the group known as _ the Aiguilles d’Arves are the culminating points of the ridge which separates the Valloire valley from the Val d’Arvan. They run almost due N. and 5., and, with the exception of the Aiguille Méridionale, he entirely in the Maurienne area and drain northwards into the Are. But the 8. peak (Aiguille Méridionale) also reaches the watershed which divides the districts of Maurienne and Oilsans, and, while the streams from its Eastern and Western slopes run into the Are, its 8. face drains into the Romanche, a little above La Grave.

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acini “COL DESTROIS POINTES 10,171" Ratlnal dase P SALVADOR 10,694’ ~COL MAITRE oeeee -BRECHE INF. .....BRECHE SuP: --MAUVAIS PAS JEAN-JEAN 11,497" Nv3r SOYD :19 Ee --COL DE GROS-JEAN 10.499’ y---GROS -JEAN 11,513° Dds wade iets atkins wasias COL Des AIGS: DARVES ‘ 10,335’ ASV4 AHL WOYs S3ANVd S3TIINOIV FHL SaAuv,0 SOlv sad "79 PETITJEAN Jy MNSS: €-------- -COL DES SARRAZINS 10,171’ > J i pa ( «wor O } ~ Digitized by WILY LC Digitized by OAS oO jax

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East Face or Alc. MERIDIONALE DARVES B: BRECHE SUPERIEURE ecccese MAUVAIS PAS AND VARIATIONS ——-—CORRA ROUTE UP (1891) ++++ WILSON-PASTEUR-ALMER ROUTE DOWN (1892) 0000 BICKNELL ROUTE (1927) Digitized by Google

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The Aiguilles d’ Arves. | 15 The three peaks are known respectively as :— Aiguille Septentrionale (Petit Jean or le Fourchu) (11,155 ft.). Aiguille Centrale (Gros Jean or le Pointu) (11,518 ft.). Aiguille Méridionale (Jean Jean or le Gros Rond) (11,499 ft.). These heights, as elsewhere in this paper, are taken from Coolidge’s ‘ Climber’s Guide,’ but there bas been much dis- cussion as to which of the two latter is the higher. They are approximately of the same height.? The district was explored in the early ‘sixties by many English climbers, and Whymper’s beautiful woodcut of the Western side of the group is known to all. The Central peak was first climbed by local hunters in 1889, the twin summits of the N. Aiguille by Mr. Coolidge in 1878 and 1878, and the S. Aiguille by Mr. Coolidge with the guides Christian Almer, pére et fils, in 1878. It is doubtful if more than two or three living Englishmen have ascended either the Northern or the Central peak. The Septentrionale has been ascended only from the §. (Col des Aiguilles d’Arves), and while its first summit is easily reached, the traverse thence to the Northern point is not easy. Few, if any, variations have been made, while a solitary descent towards the Col des Sarassins has probably never been repeated. The Aiguille Centrale can be climbed easily enough from the N., while two or three routes (far from easy) have been made up or down the 8.E. face. The Col des Aiguilles d’Arves between the Northern and Central peaks presents no difficulties, but the short cliff which, on the K. side, separates the Col de Gros Jean from the glacier is very difficult, and the pass appears to have been made only once or twice. The interest in the two Northern peaks has been completely overshadowed by the celebrity accorded to the Aiguille Méri- dionale, on account of the difficult step of about 50 ft., situated on the N.E. face quite near the top, and known since the eighties as the “Mauvais Pas.’ The §. Aiguille is, moreover, 2 Vol. IIL of M. Emile Gaillard’s Alpes de Savove (Chambéry —n.d.), which I only discovered after this paper was completed, and which contains sketch maps and routes, gives the honour to the Méridionale (3510 m.) as against the Centrale (3509 m.), while the Septentrionale is put at 3350 m.—+.e. 528 ft. lower than the highest.

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16 The Arguilles d’ Arves. the only one of the three which can be comfortably climbed up and down in a day from La Grave. THe AIGUILLE MERIDIONALE. In 1889 Mr. Coolidge, writing in ‘ Sleigh-Bells ’ (The Xmas No. of the St. Moritz Post), made the statement that, up to that date, almost every ascent had been celebrated by a special monograph, and since then there have been many special articles and very numerous notes chiefly in the publi- cations of the French, German, Italian, and Swiss Alpine Clubs, though there are well over a dozen references in our own JOURNAL. It wasin 1910 that M. Jean Capdepon collected the information then available and wrote the two exhaustive papers which form the ‘classic’ of the mountain and give full references to all other sources of information up to that date.® About a score—possibly more—of English climbers appear to have made the ascent of the Aiguille, and nine out of ten have gone up and down direct from La Grave via the Col Lombard, whence the Mauvais Pas is reached by one of the two ‘ bréches’ on the S8.E. aréte.* In the ‘ Climbers Guide to the Central Alps of the Dauphiny’ (1892), Mr. Coolidge stated that the foot of the Mauvais Pas ‘ has been reached direct from the head of the Aiguilles d’Arves glen ’ (1.e. from the E. side), apparently by a very direct route up or close to a couloir, landing near the Bréche Supérieure. He did not state that this route had then been made only once and was considered a somewhat remarkable tour de force. He could not know that M. Jean Capdepon would write in La Montagne, 1910 (p. 886), that the ascent of this face had been repeated only four times and the descent made but twice; though a descent further 8. (Bréche Brulle) by Messrs. Bartleet and Mothersill and a ‘course problématique ’ by ‘une caravane Anglaise,’ are mentioned in a footnote as possible additions to the list. It was doubtless in ignorance of the very formidable nature of the N.E. face that Mr. Bicknell’s party started on what they probably imagined would prove a fairly simple climb up to the Mauvais Pas. It was certainly in ignorance of what lay 3 La Montagne, Vol. VI, 1910, pp. 321-359, 397-440. 4A C.A.F. Club hut, Refuge Lombard, has been built, some 54 hours above La Grave (opened in 1927).

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The Arguilles d’Arves. 17 between the Mauvais Pas and the Glacier de Gros Jean that C. H. Pasteur and I, with Ulrich Almer, made what appears to have been the first descent of (and the second expedition on) this great precipice (July 80, 1892). All we knew was what the guide-book said. We imagined it to be a well-known, if perhaps a somewhat unfrequented route ; and, not knowing that we had done anything out of the common, we did not record it. But this was doubtless the ‘ course problématique ’ referred to in M. Capdepon’s footnote. Stated shortly, the story of our expedition was this: We were a party of six —uincluding three ladies and a guide. We had spent a fort- night at La Bérarde and were on our way to Chamonix. On July 29 the whole party crossed the Bréche de la Meije, arriving at La Grave in the early afternoon ; and, while our programme for the 80th proved to be more formidable than had been anticipated, it was carried out without a hitch. The ladies, with the luggage, were to start after breakfast, and drive over the Col du Galibier, while C. H. Pasteur, Ulrich Almer and I, starting early, were to climb the 8. Aiguille d’Arves (Jean Jean) ma the Col Lombard, to descend by the N.E. face and the Aiguilles d’Arves glen, and meet the ladies at Valloire, whence we were all to drive down to St. Michel de Maurienne and proceed by train to Aix. The weather was good and the rocks dry, but there was a good deal of snow and ice on the mountain, which, later in the year—according to many photos —consists entirely of bare rock. Our times were :— La Grave . ; ; ; . 02.00 Col Lombard ; ; : . 07.00—07.80 Bréche Supérieure : ; . 08.80—09.00 Top of S. Aiguille . ‘ . . 10.00—10.10 Bréche Supérieure ; ; . 11.00 Glacier de Gros Jean. ; . 12.80 Valloire ; : ; ; . 15.00—15.45 St. Michel de Maurienne : . 17.45—18.10 Aix-les-Bains : . . 21.00 With regard to our expedition, the only difficulty in the ascent was at the Mauvais Pas. Ulrich got up the initial overhang by standing on my shoulders and my head. He then went out to the left and reached the ‘ nasty place’ on the smooth bulge, where foothold is bad and handhold negligible, where one cannot see beyond the 6 ft. stretch of steep rock that lies above one’s hands, nor anything what- ever but the sky and the birds below and between one’s feet. VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. C

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18 The Arguilles d'Arves. Of those who have reached this place before the cable was fixed, probably not one has felt very happy; some have retreated not without difficulty and danger; two at least have fallen and been killed: most have felt that it was easier to go on than to turn back. If there is decent handhold just above the visible 6 ft., all will be well; if not, retreat will be doubtfully possible. Fortunately there is good handhold at this critical spot and the rest of the scramble, to the piton at the top of the Mauvais Pas, is quite simple. Ulrich, arriving at this ‘nasty place,’ out of my view but partly in sight from Pasteur’s stance, whence he looked much more happily placed than was actually the case, called out ‘Can you hold me if I slip?’ and Pasteur shouted ‘ Yes, of course we can.’ Of course we knew he couldn’t, and also that, on a rock in good condition that had been climbed before, Ulrich would not: slip. But though the sloping ledge at the foot of the Mauvais Pas has two or three good cracks, in each of which one ‘ camarade ’ can feel quite comfortable, there is nothing what- ever in the way of a belay, and the ledge ends a few feet below in a straight drop of some 1500 ft.6 We were soon on the comfortable summit and descending the Maurais Pas on a doubled rope, were soon back at our sacks on the Bréche Supérieure. Ulrich had led up, and I, at the other end of the rope, started down the E. face, keeping near the couloir leading down from the Bréche. But we shortly came to a place where the couloir and the rocks on either side of it take a sudden plunge—the couloir being like a waterfall between nearly vertical cliffs.® We retraced our steps for perhaps 100 ft., and then turned diagonally downwards towards the N., shortly coming to a steep slope of ice, below which, at its Northern end, the rocks looked possible; although the ice-slope itself, like all other ledges on this face, ended below in a direct drop. The ice § Looking at the profile of the S. Aiguille from the Aiguille Cen- trale, Signor Canzio says (1901): ‘Contempler cette terrible muraille, cette formidable face, et songer que bientdt 11 vous faudrait aller cheminer au-dessus de ce vide, suffisait & vous couper lhaleine. Heureusement, lorsqu’on est la-haut on ne voit ni par les yeux ni par la mémoire ce que l’on a, ou plutdt ce que l’on n’a pas, au- dessous de soi. S/il n’en était ainsi, Je pense que personne n’aurait jamais hasardé cette escalade.’ 6 Jt was up this couloir and by its N. bank, a route that no one had previously attempted, that Mr. Bicknell’s party tried to force their way.

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H. G. Willink. SAFETY LAST! Digitized by Google

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H. G. Willink. cw. J.H.W. T.L.K. “MAUVAIS: PAS” Climbing the Digitized by Google

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The Arguilles ad’ Arves. 19 was pretty hard, and I have a dim recollection that Pasteur found fault with my steps. However, Ulrich backed the smaller steps as preferable to spending longer than was neces- sary on the steep ice, and proclaimed cheerily that he could hold the lot if we slipped. But of course he knew he couldn’t ; and perhaps he trusted us as we, on better grounds, had trusted him. Once beyond this patch of ice we found no real difficulty, and, as with about twenty minutes lost on a false scent and half-an-hour of step cutting, we only took 14 hours from the Bréche to the glacier, we did not doubt but that we had struck the ‘ ordinary route.’ From a study of M. Capdepon’s papers, I gather (p. 888) that Signor G. Corra’s ascent (Sept. 18, 1891) corresponded in its lower half with the lower half of our descent. Higher up he kept to the rocks above and to the N. of the ice-slope which is well seen in the illustration facing p. 844. Signor Corra took 84 hours from the moraine to the Mauvais Pas (p. 428) including halts, and M. Capdepon estimates (p. 888) about 24 hours for the actual rock climb up or down from the glacier to the Bréche Supérieure. It is possible that we saved time by cutting down the ice, but we would not have chosen it had we known that there was a possible route down the rocks, the key to which lies in turning to the N. almost imme- diately after leaving the Bréche Supérieure, the general trend of the route being almost vertically below the Mauvais Pas and altogether to the N. of a vertical line descending from the Bréche. The face is steep enough but not so steep as Signor Canzio had envisaged it. Our descent struck us all as rather dangerous and very unpleasant; we would not have repeated it willingly, but it served our purpose excellently.’ Four years later—June 19, 1896—found me again on the same mountain, this time in company with J. H. Wicks and T. L. Kesteven, going up and down, as most people do, from La Grave. We started at midnight and got back at 4 p.m. It was early in the year, and the N.E. face may have been plastered with snow, as it appears in some photographs. But as already stated, when ‘au-dessus on ne voit pas ce que l’on a, ou plutdt ce que l’on n’a pas, au-dessous de soi,’ and 7 There are two easier routes leading from the Glacier de Gros Jean to points further E. on the aréte anda other from a point considerably lower down in the Aiguilles d Arves glen (Capdepon, photo, p. 338), leading to the Cold Trois Pointes, this ve more of a rough walk than a rock climb.

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20 The Arguilles d’ Arves. whether the conditions of descent would have been better or worse than on bare rock or than on a mixture of bare rock and bare ice is doubtful. One can imagine that good hard snow, well and firmly plastered on to the rocks and into the cracks and couloirs might make things easier, although not after the sun had reached it. But the snow on the slopes and in the couloirs running up from the Col Lombard to the ridge was hard while the rocks which generally offer easier going were covered with verglas, so that this part of the climb took nearly twice as long as in my previous visit. The top rocks on the K. face were in excellent condition and we spent an hour below the Mauvais Pas, partly waiting for the sun to warm the rocks (8 to 9 a.M.), and partly examining the slabs to the N. where, as we knew from Coolidge’s guide, Emil Pic (with M. Prosper Roget) had made a route in 1884, joining up with the ordinary way at the top of the Mauvais Pas, and where, as we learned subsequently, Signor Corra and Vacca- rone in 1890 made, with two Italian guides, a variation going still further up the face before joining the S.E. aréte above the top of the Mauvais Pas. On my previous visit we had taken a look at these repulsive slabs, but were astonished now to notice a route up them marked with splashes of red paint. These, says M. Capdepon (p. 346), were made in July 1894 by M. Ernest Thorant § climbing ‘ solitaire.’ In 1896 none of us had made the acquaintance of either kletterschuhen or rubbers, and, as my small experience of climbing in my socks had left painful memories, we did not try the ‘dalles.’ Having thus spent or wasted an hour, we returned to the foot of the Mauvais Pas, and I, the leader for the day (we took the lead in turns), mounted on Wicks’ shoulders and head and got well placed above the short over- hang. Thence I went up and out to the left and arrived at the ‘nasty place.’ Here I hesitated; but the return was awkward, and Kesteven placed where Pasteur had been when Ulrich had asked if we could hold him, and who, by the way, is @ much better rock climber than ever I was, shouted ‘ Go on—it’s quite easy, or come down and let me do it,’ and so goaded or encouraged, up I went, and in less than a minute had my hands gripping the good hold at the top of the ‘ nasty bit.’ 8 M. Thorant was killed, together with his companion, on the Meije, August 20,1896. A.J. 18, 263-5. Signor G. Corra perished on the Petite Sassi¢re on August 26 of the same year. I[bid., 265-6.

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The Aiguilles d’Arves. 21 M. Capdepon—climbing with his friend M. Piaget—had three shots at the Mauvais Pas before he got up (1) 1907 (p. 399), (‘ Il n’y a pas de corde fixe’). Reaching the stance at the top of the overhang, by help of his friend’s shoulders, he tried two or three times to get up. His hands and feet ‘se crispérent au rocher’ and he descended discouraged. (2) 1908 ? (p. 409): they found the rocks all verglas, but, in the interval, the fixed cord had been placed. It was too tempting. The cord was caught in the ice above, but they shook it free and M. Capdepon pulled himself up by ‘le solide cable’ though his feet got no hold on the ice-glazed rock. Near the top he came across a length of rope completely embedded in ‘une plaque de glace,’ and he was un- able to reach beyond it. ‘ Piaget, qui attendait & tout moment mon hurrah de victoire, me retrouva soudain 4 cheval sur ses épaules.’ (8) 1909 (p. 417): the rocks in good condition and the cord dry; no difficulty was encountered. It will be recollected that in 1885 the renowned party of Austrian guide- less climbers, Herren Kellerbauer, Purt- scheller and Schulz (Capdepon, p. 858), declined to try the Mauvais Pas, not because they thought it impossible, but because they thought it imprudent. 1 have always admired and commended their courage. Doubtless a fixed cord deprives the ascent of all danger, and renders it of but small interest. Yet if a fixed cord is allowable anywhere, I know of no ‘ step ’ in the Alps where its existence can be more fully justified.® ® The history of the fixed rope is not easy to unravel. Mr. Coo- lidge’s party, on the first ascent (1878), left a rope-loop hitched round ‘a knob of rock,’ quite at the top of the step, through which their spare rope was threaded for the descent, and this loop was known to be still there in 1885. (A.J. 18, 192.) When I was there in 1892 and again in 1896, there was, if I recollect aright, a piton with a ring at the top, but no rope-loop. Messrs. Kirkpatrick, Hope and Wigner (A.J. 21, 456, and 22, 558) ~

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22 The Aguilles d’ Arves. [At the moment of going to press, appears a valuable mono- graph by M. Camille Blanchard, ‘ Le Refuge Lombard,’ giving much useful information on the means of access to this hut as also the different routes to the Aiguilles d’Arves, ete. ; there is in 1902 found a fixed rope, but went up by the Thorant slab route, which they proclaim to be the most difficult rock climb of their experience. ‘ The ordinary way by which we descended,’ they say,

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‘SWIIVN JO ADVA HLYON ‘a3papiny “H 044 - - J ; is. | i Pe 4 ha | ™ :

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Katlas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. 28 also an admirable photograph of the E. face of the Aiguille Méridionale. La Montagne, 1928, pp. 88-99.] Kaiuas PARBAT AND Two PASSES OF THE KuMAON HIMALAYA. By R. C. WILSON. (Mrs. Hugh Ruttledge accompanied her husband on these expeditions, all of which were guideless.—Editor. | Kaiuas PARBAT. CCORDING to the map ‘ India and Adjacent Countries ’ Million Sheet No. 68 imi Kailas Parbat is 22,028 ft. in altitude. It stands up prominently in a massif of its own projecting 8. from the Kailas range of the Himalayas, to which it is joined by the Dolma Pass ridge. The rough plan accompanying this note is an enlargement of the map, the ridges having been put in roughly by eye from a distance for ‘scarcely seems difficult enough to justify the fixed rope which hangs there.’ But of course everyone descends it on a rope; and the ascent is a question of danger rather than of difficulty. A slip ‘by the leader, as Schulz said when they declined the risk, must be fatal to the whole party. In 1906 Mr. Clapham (A.J. 23, 583) found a fixed rope, but in 1907 M. Capdepon found none. Returning the following year, 1908, he found a “ solide cable,’ while in 1909 he remarks on ‘la minceur singuliére du cable’ (or was it a different rope 3—C. W.). The last information I find is in M. Capdepon’s paper (1910) (p. 344) and may be quoted at length. ‘ Aujourd’hui, un gros piquet de bois, planté horizontalement dans le surplomb au-dessus de la dalle, fait une prise de début. Et, depuis deux ans un cable court tout le long du passage. Le cable est une corde d’une bonne grosseur. I] est fixé au sommet par un solide anneau scellé dans le rocher; son extrémité inférieure est libre, mais, pour l’empécher de flotter, on |’a attachée par une cordelette & un petit anneau fixé au roc. Ce n’est pas la premiére corde laissée en demeure sur les rochers du Mauvais Pas; mais les précédentes avaient été rapidement enlevées par les guides.’ What may have happened since 1910 I cannot say.—C. W. In early June 1897 there were, to the best of my recollection, @ piton and short rope noose. It will be noticed that in 1899 Miss Bell makes no mention of either.—E. L. 8S.

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24 Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. the most part. It makes no pretence of accuracy, but it may be accepted that the general size and shape of the massif are as depicted and that the two main ridges running §.W. and S.E. from the summit do run roughly as shown. As the birthplace of Shiva, the mountain takes a prominent place in Hindu and Bhuddist mythology, and an interesting account of it may be found in Sherring’s * Western Tibet and the British Borderland ’ (1906. Arnold, Chap. 14). Photo, R, C. Wilson.) SUMMIT OF KAILAS FROM THE 8S. The mountain is best seen from a distance, and has the appearance of a somewhat lopsided white bowler placed on a square plinth of considerable steepness. As one approaches (from the S.) the summit is more and more concealed until one can only get an occasional glimpse of it between the ridges running down from the snow cap. This cap ends abruptly at the plinth and forms little or no glacier. In July 1926, in company with Hugh Ruttledge, Mrs. Ruttledge and a party of Indian Bhotia traders, 1 arrived at Torchen, and after spending a day or two at that place awaiting the arrival of a dilatory Tibetan official we were ready on July 22 to start on the tour of Kailas—the normal

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Kailus Purbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. 25 pilgrimage of those with sins to be forgiven. I was not much attracted by the prospect of a long march to Diriphu Monastery, our first halt, and enquired of a local priest as to the possibility of taking a short cut over the W. shoulder. He informed me that the plan was quite a possible one, and I consequently arranged to start next morning with Satan, an Everest porter of some experience. The Ruttledges were unfortunately tied down to the usual route. In the evening the lama returned to say that at our previous interview he had been drunk and that there was no possibility of taking the line I wished. My experience of lamas .being strictly limited, it seemed quite possible that his information when drunk was as likely to be accurate as when sober, and I made no change in my plan. Next morning, therefore, Satan and I started for Kyangda Monastery, intending to find our way from there to the foot of the plinth and, skirting this between a very prominent gendarme and the main peak, to drop down as near as possible on to Diriphu Monastery at the W. base of the mountain. We passed close to Kyangda, and escaped from the basin in which it stands by a col to the N., whence we reached the foot of B (see Plan) without loss of altitude and made up the valley towards the mountain, leaving the ridge HB on our right. This valley is narrow, dark and steep; there are occasional signs of a shepherd’s track. The photo was taken from farther up than the entrance to this valley. In due course we arrived at the head of the valley and found a cul de sac. In front towered the almost perpendicular ‘ plinth,’ black and forbidding. On our right, at H, the point at which ridge HF springs from the ‘ plinth,’ was a small glacier which reached the valley in the form of fragments of ice and snow. On the left leading up to the gendarme G was a shale slope as steep as any I have met. At the foot of the plinth to our front was the fan of snow, which had fallen from the snow gully which is such a prominent mark on the centre of the summit cap. To the right of this fan and between it and the débris of the tiny glacier was a niche, attainable by a scramble over these débris and probably partly natural and partly artificial. This niche contained a row of clay votive tablets, no doubt placed there by the lamas of Kyangda. It was from there that we first noticed the very marked flattening of the 8.E. ridge of the snow cap, the difference of the angle being very clearly shown in the photograph. It was also apparent that the flat continuation of this ridge

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26 Kalas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. could be attained by a short if steep and not too simple climb at H. The result of these observations was sufficiently obvious to KAILAS C IKYANGIDA é: TORCHEN D eee Fae Scale 250,000 Dotted lines indicate the writer’s routes. cause Satan to exclaim ‘ Sahib, we can climb that ’—meaning the whole ridge to the summit. He was right, but unfortunately time was lacking. We turned left therefore and tackled the shale slope leading to the gendarme. We tried it at every angle, but no sooner did one place a foot on the treacherous surface than it began to move, and our progress was desperately slow and tiring.

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Phot. H. Rutledge. BASE OF KAILAS FROM WEST.

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Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. 27 To make matters worse it began to snow, and suddenly with- out preliminary warning of any sort came a brilliant flash of lightning and a shattering crash of thunder immediately over our heads. Truly the gods were resenting our intrusion, and in the hopes of escaping their further attentions we placed our 1ce-axes at a safe distance and sat down to await the passing of the storm. It was probably an hour and a half later that we achieved the col between the gendarme and the plinth. Above us the mountain was almost perpendicular, while below was a pitch-black abyss of incredible depth and steepness, quite the most awesome place I have ever looked into. The sides were partly slaty black shale and partly snow—black with the dust and débris of the plinth above: I think that neither of us would have placed a foot on the treacherous surface for all the precious metal and stones of which the mountain is said to be made. Some other way down had to be found, however, and, apart from the way we had come up, the 8.W. ridge offered the only solution. We had attained this ridge up steep shale from the E. and had found the other side perpendicular or almost so. Looking back along the ridge there was, about a mile off, a spot at which it made a slight bend: at once our side became perpendicular and its summit assumed a cap of snow with overhanging corniche on our side. In the hopes that this indicated a more reasonable slope on the W. side we made for it, poked a hole in the overhang and pushed and pulled each other up. The surmise was correct, and we had an easy descent for many hundred feet. The final drop into the valley was sensational in appearance, but straightforward in actual practice. That night we rejoined the Ruttledges and slept at Diriphu, and the next night at Julniphu, whence we returned to Torchen via Kyangda. As one follows the track round the mountain it is difficult to see anything of the approaches thereto except on the N.W. I did, however, see enough to obtain a pretty good idea as to the best line of advance to the summit. Should fate again take me to Torchen with a couple of days to spare, I should make for the ridge HF’, moving either round the foot of D or via Kyangda and over the ridge FD. I should expect to get on to the ridge HF about point F and to have an easy passage to the foot of the final ascent. A reasonably comfortable camp could be made here and the carriers sent down again to the foot of F for the night.

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28 Kailus Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. Next day the carriers could return to H and remove the camp to the foot of F, whilst the climbers went to the top and back. As regards altitudes, Torchen is probably about 15,500 ft., point H about 20,000, and the summit 22,028. The photograph shows the final slope to be reasonable, though the snow might be found powdery and treacherous. Should the route suggested above prove impracticable, an alternative line to point H would be to leave C and the ridge HB on one’s right and to trust to finding a way up on to H from near the foot of the mountain where the small glacier falls into the valley and the niche with images has been made. In this event one would have to be content with a light camp, as the climb to H might prove too much for laden carriers. Finally, there remains a third possible route: to get on to the long N. ridge somewhere near the Dolma Pass. [Mr. and Mrs. Ruttledge are the first Kuropeans to make the parikarma or traditional pilgrimage round this very cele- brated mountain. Colonel Commandant Wilson is the first European actually to set foot on the mountain, and we are fortunate to have his very complete and valuable reconnaissance on record in this JourNaL.—T. G. L.] Two Passes OF THE KuMAON HIMALAYA. [The altitudes given in this account cannot be guaranteed. They are based on the reports of earlier climbers, the figures given in the G.T.S. maps, the readings of a pocket aneroid and calculations made with an Abney level. The Ralam Pass is probably 18,500 ft. (Smyth gave 19,000) and Traill’s Pass rather lower, possibly 18,000. ] The Himalayan frontier of India from Kashmir to Assam is, except in one or two stretches, occupied by Indian States. Of the British territory the most easily accessible, as well as the most interesting to the mountaineer, is Kumaon, which lies N.K. of Delhi. Kumaon comprises two Himalayan districts, Garhwal and Almora, and contains some of the finest peaks in the world. The Garhwal Peaks from Kamet (25,447) to Trisul (28,360) have been explored and described by Doctor T. G. Longstaff 1 and others,? as has Nanda Devi (25,660) on the dividing line between the two districts, the highest moun- 1 ff J. 28, 202-223 : 24, 107-133. 2 Graham, 4.J. 12, 25-60.

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POINT SHOWN AS RALAM PASS ON G.T-S. MAP 20,980 SECOND PASS Phot. R. C. Wilson. | VIEW FROM FIRST PASS SHOWING THE SECOND PASS.

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SECOND PASS 20,980 ‘ > SF wy Phot. R. C. Wilson. THE SECOND OR “INTERMEDIATE” PASS.

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Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. 29 tain of the British Empire and one of the least accessible in the world, by reason of its encircling rampart of peaks, nowhere less than 19,000 ft., with but one passage through it, and that an impassable river gorge. The peaks of Almora, except Nandakot, are less well known, but no less worthy of notice. As the passes which form the subject of this paper lie wholly within the Almora district, a word as to the geography of this area would not be amiss. The N. boundary is the Zaskar Range of the Himalaya, beyond which lies Tibet. This range throws off subsidiary ridges which get higher as they progress southward and finally fall again to the foothills and plains of India. It is with the two highest of these ridges that we are concerned. The most westerly forms the right bank of the Milam glacier and attains its maximum elevation at Nanda Devi (25,660), from where it divides into two arms, one terminating at Trisul (23,860) and the other at Nanda Kot (22,530). Between these two arms lies the Pindari glacier. Flowing from the Milam glacier and draining the E. face of this ridge runs the Gori Ganga river, whose E. or left bank is bounded by the second of our two ridges. This ridge, starting at the Unthadhura Pass, cul- minates in the group of peaks known as Panch Chulha, 22,661 —the Five Fire-places (of the Gods). Communications between the Gori Ganga valley and the outside world are confined to the river itself; upstream over the Unthadhura-Jainti and Kungri-Bingri Passes into Tibet ; and downstream, by way of the river gorge, to India. There are no apparent passes to the E. or W. over the formidable barriers presented by the two ridges described above, but local tradition backed by the meagre records left by early climbers proves that at least one in each direction does, in fact, exist. It was to test the reliability of these statements that a climbing party, consisting of Mr. H. Ruttledge of the Indian Civil Service, Mrs. Ruttledge, Major T. C. Carfrae, R.F.A., and the writer, visited these parts in May 1925. Their ignorance of Himalayah conditions turned the expedition of that year into a recon- naissance, but the time was not entirely wasted, and it was the knowledge thus gained which enabled them to repeat their visit in 1926 with sufficient confidence to ensure the successful crossing of both passes. In the early summer, 1926, the party, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. Ruttledge and the writer, was bound for Tibet on Govern- ment service and intended to use one of the main trade routes to that country. These routes follow the valleys running 8.

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80 Kalas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. from the frontier, and the party was faced with a long march from the W. of the district along the foothills to the E. valley they had selected for their route. It will be seen from the map that if the Pindari glacier could be reached and a route found from there into the Gori Ganga valley and thence into the Darma valley, a great deal of the tedious approach march would be avoided, and an opportunity afforded of exploring the passes which had excited their curiosity the year before. The spring of 1926 was a very late one, and reports showed that in May, when the start was made, the Pindari valley was under deep snow as low as 11,000 ft. The programme was therefore modified and the ordinary route to the Gori Ganga was followed. June 13 found the party still too early at Martoli, their immediate work finished, and their next objective the Darma valley. The opportunity was too good to be missed, and in spite of the late snow it was decided to have a cut at the Ralam Pass. I. The Ralam Pass (ca. 18,500 ft.). This pass is not unknown, though it has been so seldom used as almost to merit this description. History, as written by Colonel Edmund Smyth,® describes a crossing by that officer about 1861. Smyth’s account of his adventures, chiefly due to avalanches, falling stones, and bad weather, as given to General Macintyre and related in ‘ The Hindu Koh,’ is vivid if sketchy. Local tradition affirms that the pass was formerly used by the local Bhotias, and there are many who remember a climber, La Touche * by name, who accomplished the passage some fifteen years ago. La Touche 1s said to have been a soldier or a geolo- gist, but the evidence is strongly in favour of the latter theory, as he 1s chiefly remembered for his habit of smelling specimens of rock, a custom which is quite foreign to the Army. These crossings took place late in the year, and there was little enthusiasm among the local people to volunteer as porters as early as June. It is clear from the map that between Martoli in the Gori valley and Sipu in the Darma there are three ridges to be crossed by three passes. ‘The first is found behind the for- bidding crags of the Haseling and Ralam Peaks and stands up clearly above Martoli; on the EK. the ridge drops down steeply $ Colonel Edmund Smyth was in the first ascent of Monte Rosa, Hochstespitze, 1855. 4 Mr. T. D. La Touche, Geological Survey of India.—T. G. L.

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AHL “IVNIeI 4O ANH “MHIOW ITD YWHHDUNAHL cho me ‘uospray (ON Od SSvVWd NIVW AO NOILISOd o9e'lLz 40 AdOTS 99¢‘1Z 40 44a TOOHS

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“IENOATG AIIIEL) JIYIIOY TL 1} NOSTIM ‘THNOTOD GNV ADGAHILOAY SIN ‘aspapny “YH 3O"Ud ae ghia teen Es , attain tas” 2 Sages obey Aa eat ¥ wh sip ao _ F —- _ O9¢'1Z 40 SAdOTS HAMOT

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Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. 381 to the Ralam valley. This pass stands some 5000 ft. above the Gori Ganga river bed, or rather over 15,000 ft. in altitude. At the time of our start the last 2000 ft. or so was under deep snow. We started on June 14 and camped that night on the edge of the snow below the first pass, at about 18,000 ft. Next day we were early on top in the hopes of a view of the subsequent route, about which we knew little or nothing at this stage. The view was very fine as a spectacle and sufficient could be seen to establish two points. Firstly, that the second or intermediate ridge could be crossed by either of two passes of about 16,000 ft. ; and secondly, that the main or Ralam Pass itself was not to be found in the position in which marked on the map. We were left guessing as to the actual situation of this main pass which was invisible. At Ralam village we were so very lucky as to find a Bhotia who claimed to have crossed the pass some fourteen years before, who was ready with a little persuasion to go again and who had a sufficiency of ‘nephews’ to act as porters. He gave the following information in reply to our questions: The second pass, of which we had had a glimpse, was the best one to follow. The drop on the far side to the Thercher glacier was short but “khara’ (steep). The Thercher glacier was ‘ maidan ’ (flat), at first, after which it became very * khara ’ and finally ‘ sal4mi ’ (moderate) to the foot of the pass, which was itself ‘ khara ’ but short. He was distinctly vague as to the way down on the far side, except that it was long and subject to falling stones. The arrangements at Ralam had delayed us for a day, and it was not until June 17 that we got off. That night we camped at the foot of the snow line on the second pass at an altitude of 13,000 ft. or thereabouts. As some 8000 ft. re-— mained to the second pass, an early start was made on the morning of June 18 and the first 1000 ft. quickly overcome. Next the snout of a small but steep glacier was crossed and the hill-side again reached. Here the choice lay between snow couloirs and loathsome arétes of rotten rock and shale. As the former had all the appearance of stone chutes, the latter were preferred, and after much tedious scrambling these led on to a fairly steep snow slope which occupied the final 800 ft. to the pass. The climbing party made the necessary steps up this slope and sent down one member to help bring up the porter’s rope. The top was reached at 10.80 without incident. Immediately below, perhaps 400 ft. down, was the gently sloping Thercher glacier running N. and S. until hidden

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82 Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. towards the 8. by an aréte running down from the shoulder of 20,980 on the opposite bank; from this aréte to the lower slopes of 21,360 stretched an icefall which blocked the view farther up the glacier. To reach the pass, which, although still invisible, it was assumed would be found round the S. bend of the glacier, it would be necessary to circumvent this icefall. The aréte from the shoulder of 20,980 offered a possible solution of the problem. After a meal on top of the pass, the party glissaded or rolled, according to their skill or inclination, down to the glacier, up which they made their way for a couple of easy miles to the foot of the icefall. As time was getting on and the weather threatening, advantage was taken of a small dry patch of medial moraine on which to pitch the tents at an altitude of about 16,000 ft. It snowed that evening, sufficiently to make a reconnaissance of to-morrow’s route too unprofitable a job, and we turned in without having succeeded in getting a view of our pass and with no exact idea as to where it was. The more immediate problem, however, was how to circumvent the icefall which, as described above, appeared to cut off access to the upper reaches of the glacier. The most obvious route skirted under an ice cliff and across some fair rocks, and this made an early start advisable, a plan which proved successful and which brought us on the morning of June 19, before sunrise, to the top of the icefall and at long last within sight of our pass. In front of us was three-quarters of a mile of easy glacier, followed by a rise to the pass of some 800 ft. of pretty steep snow cut off by a bergschrund. On the right, the débris of many avalanches from the shoulder of 21,860 had filled this sufficiently to make a safe passage if used before the sun reached that mountain, and so the party moved without delay across the glacier and halted the porters in safety whilst the climbers made the necessary steps. A few stretches of ice made progress slow, and it was with a feeling of relief that the party reached a sheltered rib of rock where the porters could join them without being delayed en route. The rest of the way to the top was plain sailing over snow at a reasonable angle and in good condition. Some of the younger porters suffered badly from mountain sickness on the way up, which surprised us, as the maximum altitude was about 18,500 ft. and they are accustomed to live permanently at over 11,000 and must attain 18,000 ft. every year when crossing into Tibet. We ascribed their trouble to

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Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. 83 the snow, to which they are unaccustomed. All recovered when 2000 ft. of the descent had been accomplished. The E. side of the ndge was either heavily corniched or very steep for the first few feet of the descent, and this combined with the sickness and general clumsiness of Indian hillmen on snow, and their unfamiliarity with the use of the rope, caused the first 200 ft. of the descent to be fraught with excitement, many of the porters arriving at an outcrop of rock at the foot completely out of control. Luckily no damage was done, but the experience rather cramped the style of the party and led to considerable détours to avoid any further adventures on steep snow. We kept to the left bank of the Nipchungkang glacier to avoid two icefalls which were just discernible through the mist at a considerably lower altitude; and after crossing innumer- able ridges and ribs of rotten rock finally found one of sound material which led on to the dry ice at the foot of the lowest icefall. A flat-topped medial moraine carried on the good work for another mile or more, after which a scramble over the stone-covered junction of the two glaciers brought us to the left bank of the combined stream, where we camped for the night. A couple of inches of snow during the night added to nobody’s comfort, and this was followed next morning by a tramp to Sipu, where the inhabitants received us with con- siderable surprise and hospitality, to say nothing of an entirely correct action in offering a drink. II. Traill’s Pass (ca. 18,000 ft.). This pass lies W. of Martoli in the Gori Ganga valley and between Nanda Devi (25,660) and Nanda Kot (22,580) ; it has an interesting history. The first Commissioner of Kumaon, Mr. Traill, conceived the idea in 1880 of opening communications between the Pindari valley and that of the Gori Ganga by using the pass, _ which even in those early days had for long been in disuse and whose existence was little more than a local tradition. Equipped with tools and planks and an army of workmen, he built over the grass slopes on the right bank of the Pindari glacier a three-foot track, of which signs remain to this day at infrequent intervals. Higher up he took to the glacier, and his subsequent adventures are wrapped in mystery, except that he found the glacier flat and easy. He was followed in 1855 by fate VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI.

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84 Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. Schlagintweit 5 and in 1861 by Colonel (then Captain) Edmund Smyth. In 1883 T. 8. Kennedy set out with the intention of trying the pass, but gave up the attempt, and in 1893 Dr. K. Boeck also gave up the attempt on hearing that the retreat of the glacier had made the way impracticable. All these crossings were from W. to E., and there is no record of any passage in the opposite direction. They have other points in common ; all followed the right bank of the Pindari glacier —in every case the last camp was probably a certain cave said by Schlagintweit to be 14,180 ft.—from here all followed a side glacier and from it crossed a col (Schlagintweit 17,770) and so into the upper névé basin of the Pindari glacier, whence the pass was reached without difficulty. All seem to have found the E. side of the pass steep, and Smyth, in particular, had considerable difficulty in descending to the Lwanl glacier. As related above, our intention was to follow in the footsteps of these early pioneers. In 1925 (64 years after the last crossing) we arrived at the Pindari in May, crossed the glacier about a mile from the snout, found Schlagintweit’s cave and signs of Traill’s path and reached the col, from which our predecessors had attained the névé basin. Here our successes ended in bad weather, but it was quite obvious that the glacier could no longer be joined at the col. To do so would have involved a nasty descent to the glacier, which would have been met at a point in the middle of the icefall and several hundred feet below the ‘ almost flat ’ névé basin. The only alternative would have been to go very much higher over a ridge running due K. from 21,624, in the hopes that, at the altitude thus attained, the glacier would be found more accommodating. In the same year we managed to get our first glimpse of the pass from the Lwanl, sufficient to enable a route over the lower slopes to be chosen and to confirm the previous reports of its steepness. In 1926, after crossing the Ralam Pass in mid-June, we spent four weeks in Tibet, and arrived once more at Martoli in the Gori Ganga valley on our way back to India on August 8. Having been frustrated by the snow earlier in the year, we had decided to make another attempt, this time from the E., should the monsoon prove amenable. The party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Hugh Ruttledge and the writer. On August 9 the weather was by no means good, but was voted good enough, and we slept that night at the snout of the Lwanl glacier at 5 A.J. 12, 31-32.

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s “i \. i. "See Fs iy ae te ee OY we a : ee BAe kA =P ue a Phot. R. C. Wilson, THE PINDARI ICE-FALL FROM BELOW.

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Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. 85 14,100 ft. Sufficient rain fell during the afternoon and night to make us somewhat apprehensive for the next day. Our next camp on August 10 was at 16,700, some 2000 ft. below the ridge joining the N.W. shoulder of Nanda Kot (20,740) and the pass and about mid-way between these two points. To reach this spot we had followed the left bank of the Lwanl glacier for two and a half miles, crossed the flat valley and stream which flows KE. from the foot of Nanda Devi HK. peak 24,879, and climbed the centre one of three ridges running down from between the N.W. shoulder 20,740 and the pass. This glacier flows N.W., and before reaching the pass falls rapidly for 1000 ft. There were three courses open to us : (a) To follow the small glacier N.W., descend to 15,700 ft. at the foot of the pass, and then climb 2000 ft. to the pass. (b) To cross the glacier at our level and traverse to the right along the face of the ridge, rising 1000 ft. in the half-mile which separated us from the pass. (c) To cross the glacier and reach the ridge joining 20,740 and the pass at a point immediately above us; a climb of some 2000 ft. After due deliberation (a) and (b) were ruled out, the former as being too long and the latter too uncertain, and we con- centrated on the selection of the most suitable line of attack on the 2000 ft. of ridge in front of us. There were two suitable ribs running down on the far side of the glacier; both were steep and consisted of shale for a third of the distance, after which the one on the left became snow-covered, and that on the right a firmer looking species of shale. The right-hand rib was selected, not because it was the easier—indeed the way up the last 200 ft. was by no means clear, as the strata became very definitely against the climber—but by reason of the very indifferent performances previously put up by the porters on steep snow, they were more likely to be at home on rock however constituted. On the morning of August 11, therefore, we made our way across the glacier and started up the ridge, keeping to the snow until the porters showed signs of distress. We then took to our rib, and a tedious scramble followed until the strata became very definitely against us. About this time an alter- native presented itself, consisting of a level traverse of 800 yds. to the right to meet the top of the ridge, where it began to fall towards the pass. It was not easy going, ag the slabs of slatelike material were superimposed on each other with the

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86 Kailas Parbat and Two Passes of the Kumaon Himalaya. higher one overlapping the lower. It was found, however, that at the junction the lower slabs had somewhat dis- integrated, and by chipping away the soft material an edge was produced with the appearance of the pages of a closed book which afforded a reasonably secure foothold. From the top of the ridge we followed the crest and descended obliquely to the W. side of the pass, whence the upper névé basin of the Pindari was easily reached. This basin is enclosed on the 8. by two ridges, one long and fairly level running HK. from 21,624, the other very steep, running W. from the N.W. shoulder of Nanda Kot, 20,740. Glaciers fall steeply from the two peaks on the N. side of these two ridges, and sweeping 8. round their lower extremities join the main Pindari icefall, the upper edge of which overlaps both ridges. From the pass we could see sufticient of this to realize that whereas our predecessors, coming from below, had reached the névé basin round the KE. point of the ridge from 21,624, we could not now adopt their route, but must perforce cross the ridge considerably higher, at a point above the main fall and below the broken ice flowing down from 21,624. We there- fore went §.W. from the pass for 14 mules across the névé basin, keeping well over towards the base of 21,624. The going was good and level for the first mile, after which the glacier became undulating and broken in the area between the top of the Pindari icefall and the foot of that flowing down from 21,624. In due course we arrived at the top of the ndge running down from that mountain and could look down into the cloud-filled Pindari valley. The descent from this ridge was 800 ft. of real abomination. It is composed of rock in every stage of decay and looseness. To avoid dislodging the horrible stuff was almost an impossi- bility. The Bhotia porters made very heavy weather of it, and one rope had to be left at the top until the other had accomplished the 800 ft. to the glacier at the foot. Even so the porters’ slowness in crossing a snow couloir at the bottom involved them in a shower of rocks and stones of all sizes, luckily without damage. From the foot to Schlagintweit’s col is a short distance, and once the col was crossed our troubles were at an end. We had reconnoitred as far as this in the opposite direction the year before, and had left a cairn to mark the correct ridge, which is the centre one of three joining at or near the col. Having obligingly allowed us to cover the difficult part of

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The Godfathers of Fortunatus. 837 our journey unmolested, the weather now decided to turn against us, and we were glad to reach the cave of our prede- cessors in a steady drizzle at 6 p.m. and to settle down there for the night. On the morning of August 12 we crossed the Pindari glacier between the two icefalls and followed the track on the left moraine to Phurkia dak bungalow. Traill’s Pass, in common with most Himalayan passes, is long ; it has a distinctly awkward stretch on the EK. and an unpleasant ridge overlooking the Pindari glacier. I venture to prophesy, however, that the feature which will give most trouble to future climbers will be the attainment of (or exit from) the 8. edge of the névé basin of the Pindari glacier. One hundred years ago it was possible to reach this basin at an altitude of 17,000 ft. or thereabouts—to-day one can only do so 1000 ft. higher. Should the Pindari glacier icefall recede still more it will connect up with the subsidiary fall from 21,624 and a way through will require careful search and considerable labour. In this crossing, the first for 64 years and the first ever made from E. to W.,®° we were lucky in the weather ; the climbing season in the Himalayas is normally limited to the months of June and July, between the melting of the winter snow and the monsoon rains. Traill’s Pass is on the main chain of the Himalayas and gets no protection from the monsoon clouds ; we had no right to expect the perfect day we experienced when high up. Had it been otherwise it might have become a matter of some difficulty to find one’s ways even now, off the Pindari névé basin. ——— THE GODFATHERS OF F'ORTUNATUS. By R. L. G. IRVING. {Naas is not an attempt to convert the ALPINE JOURNAL into a magazine of fiction. It is not one of those tall tales from the plains in which mountain adventures are viewed through glasses of the kind which enabled Dr. Cook to see him- self on the top of Mt. McKinley and, later, at the North Pole. It is a plain tale from the hills of things that might happen to any member of the Club and which did happen to one. 6 And the first ever made by a lady.—Editor.

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38 The Godfathers of Fortunatus. And if the tale is an acknowledgment of a debt to Fortune and not a record of achievement, the creditor is one whom all climbers will be glad to have propitiated. Any man who has climbed actively for more than 20 years, especially if he has in- dulged in guideless or solitary expeditions above the snow-line without a single serious accident to himself or his companions, may be forgiven if he claims to call himself Fortunatus. If he 1s still able to receive from snow mountains what they began to give him 80 years ago, the title is unquestionably his. The rewards a man gets from mountaineering depend greatly on the way in which he regards mountains, and this is a matter of temperament. Temperament in mountaineering would be an interesting subject for a paper, but it would make many demands on the skill of the writer, and our Fortunatus has no more to do with the Fortunatus of the Muses than he has with that other Fortunatus described in the dictionary, the man ‘in good circumstances, rich.’ The past favours of Fortune here described, being free and unexpected, an entirely unearned increment to mountaineering revenue, are peculiarly pleasant to acknowledge, however devoid of interest the manner of their winning may be to others. None of the more cinematographic episodes in Fortunatus’ career have been chosen, though Fortune has been known to tighten his grip of the ice-axe while his feet awaited contact with the lower portions of a crevasse, and to steer a shower of stones clear of his ill-sheltered body. He has chosen cases in which the grip of the mountain has closed gently and inexor- ably upon him till he has felt his helplessness and then seen Fortune release him with a smile, and one ease in which Fortune has shown what a delightful companion she can be even when Tragedy is far away. I. One fine morning in April, very early in the present century, Fortunatus set out to climb the Taillon, which, as very few schoolboys and not all the members of the Alpine Club know, 1s a peak of over 10,000 ft. in the central chain of the Pyrenees above Gavarnie. It was an Kaster when the snow under clear skies was exceptionally good. His intention was to ascend by the N. and descend by the KE. ridge, continuing the traverse as far as he could before returning to Gavarnie. A storm came up from the §. as he was nearing the summit, and he hurried down the E. ridge, looking for the first practic-

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The Godfathers of Fortunatus. 89 able point at which to leave it. The little he could see of the icy precipices on the N. was utterly repellent. He came toa point where it was easy to reach, on the S. side, a slope of snow that merged into the grey wall of mist and led down into Spain, altogether a beguiling slope combining immediate safety with adventure. No one worthy of the name Fortunatus could hesitate to trust himself to it. In afew minutes he was revelling in the long plunging strides that are almost effortless when the slope is sufficiently steep and the snow less than knee- deep. In the mist the occasional rocks and inequalities, magnified to immense proportions, appeared so suddenly and vanished behind him so quickly that he had the impression of flying down at enormous speed. The slope continued to dip at an angle agreeable to tired legs, and preserved a monotony most reassuring to a mind disturbed by lightning-charged clouds. At first Fortunatus struck straight down, as the shortest way out of danger. His only guide as to direction was the impression left upon his memory by a small map in Joanne and the extremely sketchy suggestions of the French ordnance map. He did his best to check by reasoning the leagues in distance and the thousands of feet in height he seemed to have put between himself and the frontier ridge. Gradually the crashes of thunder grew fainter as the area of storm was left behind. The hail ceased. The slope became less steep, and under the snow a hidden stream began to make its stifled gurgles heard. Every minute he was expecting to come out into the Val d’Arazas. When the unexpected happened, as it does to climbers, however often experience has warned them to expect it, it literally took his breath away. A moment before it had been an effort to keep his senses awake while he watched for some change in the narrow, monotonous circle of mist and snow that seemed to cling round him as he moved. Then, with no more warning than a sudden infusion of warmer light into the greyness in front, the curtain went up. Fortunatus found himself standing on the very brink of a cirque so wildly beautiful, so utterly different in fantastic grandeur to what he had expected to see, that he felt his whole being caught and shaken by the wonder of it. To right and left precipices of increasing depth ran out to two enormous bastions of rock that dominated the Val d’Arazas by thousands of feet. But it was the colour that held Fortunatus spell- bound. The vast cirque was glowing with orange and crimson

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40 The Godfathers of Fortunatus. above, with dark velvety greens and purples below, as if all the passion of the South had surged up to melt the cold austerity of the snow. Colour is always vivid after storm, but its effect is most intense when seen by eyes that have been for hours confronted by a monochrome of whitish grey. Fatigue also may act strangely on a man’s perceptions. There are many times when it produces mere peevishness and insensibility to any form of beauty, to anything, in fact, but rest or food. But there are times when it merely draws all desire for action from the limbs and mind and leaves the latter acutely sensitive to beauty, and far more liable to fall under its spell. A whole leap year may be less dangerous to a bachelor than an hour of convalescence ! Immediately in front of Fortunatus the stream wriggled out of the snow and fell over the rim of the cirque. There the drop to practicable slopes below was least, but a single glance showed the intervening wall to be unclimbable. Now Fortunatus was not one of your fearless fellows who are undisturbed by such discoveries. Anticipations of a tragic nature were never far away in the hours before an arduous climb. And in that moment he saw his position clearly and the difficulty of escape. Yet the spell of the place was so strong upon him that he not only felt no fear, he felt the very will to éscape weaken. He retained enough self-consciousness to check an inclination to open his arms in welcome to some strange delight, forcing him- self to look back at the slopes he had just descended. He followed them in imagination under the clouds their long, weary length. Could he ever plod up there again with the hours of daylight and the strength that were left him? Could he find a way over the main ridge if he did? He turned away, content to let his eyes rest upon the unyielding but glorious and en- chanting walls of his prison. It was a dangerous moment for Fortunatus. The Greeks were right to be afraid of Pan. And in that moment his eye was caught by something that looked like a piton in the rocks below the rim on his right. The reader who knows the Pyrenees will exclaim from his arm-chair, ‘ Why, of course, one of the Buxtons had pitons put in there years before when chamois-hunting, to provide an exit from the cirque.’ Quite true! but to Fortunatus, at that moment, 1t was a miracle, the most dramatic thing that had ever happened to him. It changed the whole character of what he saw ; its beauty was no longer pagan ; something had come into it that restored his liberty of choice and made him feel ashamed. Rather like a

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: 7 a Raia Pr eS ee ig Vick aT hy ek ee ee a Phot. R. L. G. Irving, LE TAILLON.

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The Godfathers of Fortunatus. Al child that has seen the smile of forgiveness in its mother’s face, he made his way over to the piton, barely able to believe in its reality till he had touched it with his foot. It was a quite solid reality, the first of several that supplied what Nature had omitted in providing a descent till pines growing at all sorts of angles took the place of the steep rocks in alternately aiding and obstructing progress. Daylight lasted long enough to let Fortunatus get round below the great western bastion into the Val d’Arazas. Fortune did not even refuse him a late supper and a bed in the old inn at Torla. Two days later, at Gavarnie, he learned the history of the pitons and the name of the cirque, Cotatuero, from Célestin Passet, famous among Pyrenean guides. It is a place that must at any time impress a man with any imagination ; it is the dramatic nature of his presentation to it that makes Fortunatus rank it first among the mountain godfathers to whom he owes his name. II. You must now picture Fortunatus starting at dawn from a miner’s hut at the entrance to the long corral that runs up to the N. face of the Pico de Veleta. Any map you have of the Sierra Nevada will confirm my statement that the Veleta is the one of the main peaks nearest to Granada and 1s about 11,400 ft. high ; it will probably tell you very little else. The time was April, the day promised to be little better than the two days of bad weather which preceded it. Fortunatus had spent nearly a week in a sleeping bag on the side of the mountain 4 or 5 hrs.’ walk above Granada without getting above 8000 ft. ; he had to do something to justify his existence asa mountaineer. A primitive man inhabiting a stone bechive, and quite grateful to be told the day of the week and month, had promised to take Fortunatus’ sleeping bag and most of his valuables down to Granada. Three men who looked as if they would much prefer brigand- age to mining had supped in the hut and kept Fortunatus awake imagining various ways in which they might use a knife upon his person. He regretted he had not shown them that a handful of very dirty coppers was all he had left after he had paid his bill. He knew his clothes could not tempt them. _An extract from one of his first attempts to keep a diary will give an idea of the morning’s progress. ‘Struck up hillside on E. of stream and reached ridge without difficulty. Hopes

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42 The Godfathers of Fortunatus. raised by occasional gleams of sunshine, but after 3 hrs.’ going in variable fresh snow wind became bad and snow began to fall. Clouds came over the ridge at about 9000 ft. On nearing the main ridge some awkward bits occurred which were turned by traversing deep snow on the W. Close to the final peak where the ridge bent round above the corral more traversing over steep, bad snow. In summer this would probably be shale and quite easy. Every footstep started an avalanche, but by going close under the rocks at the top of the ndge and holding on to them it was possible to avoid going down with the snow. Ridge joined again just where it joins the main ridge connecting Veleta with Mulhacen. Wind and blinding snow made things hard for hands and eyes; gloves merely ice-bags. Consulted compass and attacked wall of rocks looming above in the mist. All holds filled with fresh snow.’ Murray’s guide-book says of this face (presumably in summer) ‘ both difficult and dangerous, though not impossible to first- rate cragsmen.’ Knowing on the authority of Professor Godley that an ‘expert’ after Baedeker was ‘a man with nails in his boots,’ 1t was not unreasonable, therefore, to con- clude that a short experience plus the nails would make a ‘ first-rate cragsman’ after Murray. There were one or two places where Fortunatus called himself a fool for being where he was, and though the climb 1s short he was not a little comforted when his nose touched a ledge of snow that proved to be the edge of the summit. In front of him a slope of soft and rapidly deepening snow stretched away at an easy angle under the mist. He pulled out his compass to take his bearings. He had to avoid straying on to the N. face where a sheer drop of 2000 ft. would land him on the most southerly glacier in Europe, while his best direction lay a little N. of W. Tor convenience he put the compass back in an outside pocket. Alas ! how many precious things have passed away out of that pocket. Even a camera and a biggish pot of honey have been known to find the through route. With a faint tinkle as it struck a patch of wind-swept snow it slid off to the right over that awful N. face. The one thing that could ensure direction was gone. As he surveyed, as well as the driving flakes that stung his eyes would let him, the small circle of deep soft snow of which he was the centre, he realised that Solitude was in a very grim mood indeed. It was just the moment for Fortune to lend a hand, and she did so promptly, giving Fortunatus an extra buffet from the wind upon his cheek. Wind may be a

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The Godfathers of Fortunatus. 48 treacherous guide, but on that exposed peak, with nothing between him and Africa to turn it, it was likely to be steady in direction. The occasions when a climber is ready to bless the wind are rare, and this was one. Fortunatus pounded on, knee- deep in the snow, with the wind on his left cheek, hour after hour, in a cloud that was surprisingly dazzling to the eyes con- sidering the amount of precipitation from it. At last there was a darkening of the baffling wall and a valley, desolate but clear, appeared below a ragged edge ofcloud. In another hour a path, unspeakably stony but blessedly welcome, was reached. A mulberry tinge in the murky sky indicated that the sun was setting as he saw a still more welcome sight, a man driving cows. Fortune had been at his side and stuck to him. Soon after nightfall he reached a farm, and even there Fortune entered with him, securing him a welcome from hospitable folk, two or three lucky dips in the family dish of potatoes and beans with a plate all to himself, an orange treasured up from the previous summer and not entirely dry, and finally a bed on which he only heard and never felt the rats. For all this he had only his handful of coppers to offer and yet had difficulty in getting it accepted. In the morning he found that Fortune had brought him down within a mile or so of the direct route from the summit to Granada, and best of all he found there that the primitive man had faithfully delivered his possessions at the hotel. He may have had a painful attack of snow-blindness from the hours spent in the clouds when the driving snow prevented the use of glasses; he may have missed his ship at Gibraltar owing to there being no train for about 30 hours. These are trifles. The Veleta is one of his godfathers who counts. Il. One other godfather only can be mentioned. It 1s hard to pass over the claims of Mont Blanc and the Roccia del Abisso ; but youth will be served, and Fortunatus’ choice falls upon the youngest, the simple, unexciting Létschenliicke. The name has nothing to do with his choice, though Fortunatus on a mountain is capable of such a thing. Many good days have commonplace beginnings, and this was one of them. After a large breakfast, at a late hour in the morning, Fortunatus left Concordia in the company of many friends, all young enough to be his sons or daughters, though he could only claim that relationship with one. Fortune

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44 The Godfathers of Fortunatus. seemed to have exhausted her favours by allowing them to make an entirely successful ascent of the Finsteraarhorn the previous day. A warm, cloudy night had changed the Con- cordiaplatz into a slough. The slush was far above the boot. Wrapped in clouds, rained on or snowed on, facing the wind, with the water in their boots renewed too frequently to rise a degree above zero, the party trudged up the broad, white, mushy glacier that leads to the pass. Fortunatus was almost certainly alone in suffering more than physical discomfort. That is the worst of getting old; experience has shown how suddenly the effects of cold and fatigue may develop, and does not let you forget that every bit of ground made towards your pass increases the risk. Useless, silly fears they were, and yet impossible to get rid of. One or two of the party swore they saw a shadow on the snow; it must have been Fortunatus’ fears, for the sun was conspicuously absent. Without a halt, and roped in threes, for there were several sodden ropes to carry, they reached and crossed the pass, and a few hundred feet below the farther side Fortune joined them again. The wind fell, the clouds ceased to pour out icy rain. First the long, broken glacier unfolded itself before them, then the dark, wet blue of the valley and the hills beyond Goppenstein, and above and beyond these a promise in the sky. The glacier was easy to traverse and to quit, the crossing of the Jagi torrent was able to add little to the water in their boots, the halt for lunch was late and long. It was found that the heaviest man of the party had fallen without breaking one of the raw eggs he carried, so that the scrambling was done entirely outside the rucksack. Free to be as idle as they liked, with all the labour and the greyness of the day behind them, they watched the promise in the sky fulfil itself as the colours spread over the Létschenthal. The walk past the Guggisee and through the woods to Fafleralp was already compensation for the morning ills, and on the descent to Ried those ills became just the sombre edging needed to set off a succession of unforgettable pictures. Never had chalets carried a patina so rich ; never had pure colouring on hill and pasture been so soft and warm! For once it was good fortune that hid the head and shoulders of the Bietschhorn ina cloud. When the light of the king’s countenance 1s turned upon us we cannot do justice to the beauties of his court. It was as wonderful to Fortunatus as if he never had seen such things before. And how better can we prove the excellence of Nature’s work than by the double test we apply to Art and Literature : ‘ Does it excite wonder, and does it stand the test

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The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschaur. 45 of Time?’ And as he wondered Fortune bestowed on him a still greater favour. He saw his young friends were filled with the same delighted wonder as himself. It was the surest testimony to the faith that was in him. For however deep- rooted the convictions of an older generation may be, they are jarred if not shaken by the adverse judgments of the young, as, for example, when our young musicians are bored by Handel and our young artists rave about Epstein. And here was youth obviously accepting the very foundations of his mountain creed. Fortunatus truly named ! and most of all in the com- pany in which he climbed. He knew that in thirty years they would be able to say with him: Beauty, thy form new fashions may disguise, Youth may reject what Age would have thee wear, That evening in the Létschenthal our eyes Were met by thine, and held in worship there. None of them will, of course : they’ll know better, bless them ! em er a ee re eee — a Lapa i Tae Cot DE LA Brenva; THE AIGUILLE DE LESCHAUX. By R. OGIER WARD. (Read before the Alpine Club, December 12, 1927.) The Col de la Brenva. (4338 m. = 14,217 ft., B.I.K.) if SUPPOSE that most mountaineers have felt at one time or another a great desire to climb the Brenva aréte of Mont Blanc. From the Tour Ronde near the Col du Geant one gets a magnificent view of it, and since I first saw it from there I have always taken a special interest init. In July of this year this interest was greatly increased by watching, from the Aiguille du Géant, those two splendid climbers, Herren Amstutz and von Schumacher, mounting the upper snow slopes and working their way through the final séracs. In a letter to me Amstutz says :— ‘We had excellent conditions, left Torino at 1 a.m., reached Col de la Brenva at 7.30, and the top of Mont Blanc 8.80 ; then we went on to Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul and arrived at Chamonix at 7 P.M.’

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46 The Col de la Brenva; The Aiguille de Leschauz. When F. 8. Smythe asked me to join with himself and J. H. Bell in an assault upon the Brenva aréte I was greatly pleased ; though I rather wondered whether I was quite up to the standard of these two ‘ jeunes Britanniques ’ ; for they had just completed an exceedingly difficult climb of the Aiguille du Plan by a variation of Ryan’s route. Moreover, I had certain very grim recollections of a well-known climbing novel which appeared before the War. In this the villain, who is a distinguished mountaineer in disguise, takes charge of an attack upon the Brenva route. After he has pushed along the famous ice aréte a wealthy but weakly member of the party, who 1s so unstable that he has to remain seated all the time, the wicked man attempts to do away with him altogether. But, I reflected, the story clearly shows that this unfortunate traveller's decease would have brought riches to the leader; now Smythe knew that there was nothing of the sort to be expected in my case, and I felt reasonably sure that, even under similar provocation, he would not sacrifice me merely in order to make a better time for the ascent ! Anyhow, it seemed a very good thing to attempt it, for no English guideless party appears to have climbed this aréte since July 1904, when Messrs. C. Wilson, J. H. Wicks and K. H. F. Bradby succeeded. I may remind you that the first guideless ascent of the Brenva aréte was made in 1894 by Messrs. A. F. Mummery, J. N. Collie and G. Hastings; they had to turn back below the highest séracs and bivouac a second time beneath the ice aréte, the ascent being completed next day. —§$o, on July 31, Bell and myself went up to the Rifugio Torino from the Montenvers, arriving shortly before mid- day. Meanwhile Smythe, who had been joined by G. 8. Bower and G. G. Macphee, had started from the Requin Hut at 4 a.m., and they made their way towards the Trident de la Brenva. They spent the day in mounting to the col known as the Col du Trident. The difficult part of the ascent to this is up a very steep ice-slope, about 300-400 ft. high, where Smythe had to cut steps for 8 hrs. This was a hard day’s work and they only got to the Torino at 6 p.m. Bell and I suggested that they should take a day’s rest, but they treated this pro- posal with the scorn which it deserved, and so we started off at 1.20 a.m. the next morning, August 1. Ahead of us was a very strong French party consisting of MM. Lagarde, de Ségogne, Langlois and some friends, on two ropes; they had started

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The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschaux. 47 before midnight to climb the aréte, and possibly to prolong the expedition in another direction. The night was fine and the snow good ; we all wore crampons and found the going over the Col des Flambeaux and onwards from there very pleasant. When we reached the bergschrund below the Col du Trident we had to wait, for the French parties were still on the slope above us and small stones and pieces of ice, which they could not help dislodging, made it too dangerous to start climbing. We spent nearly an hour inside this schrund ; but it was not entirely wasted, for one or two crampon straps had become worn and had to be mended with pieces of leather boot-lace. Presently, silence above told us that the other parties were over the col, so we left the cold recesses of the schrund and got above it with some difficulty, for the bridge was broken. We mounted the steep ice in the excellent steps which Smythe had made the day before. The order was—Smythe, Macphee, Bower, on the first rope, myself and Bell on the second. Macphee is very strong and his ice-axe was not; he hit the mountain with it and the head broke off. This was unfortunate, for here we were in the dark and on an ice slope, the steepness of which is at least 50°. It was clear that Macphee could not go on, and after some discussion Bell, with a really charming unselfishness, undertook to go back with him. As we stood in our steps, certain rearrangements had to be carried out. We had started with one rucksack short in order that our leader might be free, but now we had to carry one each. Bell’s ruck- sack had to be hauled up and certain of its contents transferred to mine, while Macphee, after removing some essentials from his sack, passed it up to the leader Smythe. All this was rather difficult, and would have been still more so but for the splendid light given by the * Ever-ready ’ batteries and lamps which we had bought at Mr. Unna’s suggestion. But even these could not fully illuminate the depths of Macphee’s enormous sack, and it was only in the evening at Chamonix that Smythe dis- covered that, in addition to his own things, he had carried throughout the day a bath towel, a pound of chocolate, and all Macphee’s money! This touching example of mutual trust amongst mountaineers cannot be left unrecorded ; also, I, personally, prefer to climb with a man who is not 1 The French parties were composed as follows: first rope, MM. Lagarde, Langlois and de Ségogne ; second rope, MM. Noetzlin and Brincard, with Armand Charlet and Raymond Tournier.— Editor.

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48 The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschauz. particular as to a few odds and ends that Chance may put into his sack ! Macphee unroped and skilfully passed below Bower, and then tied on to the end of my rope temporarily, and went neatly down to Bell. I had thought it necessary to make some trifling improvements in my steps while this was going on, and in so doing I started a torrent. Torrents usually flow down- wards ; this one flowed upwards, and was composed entirely of invective ; it emanated from Bell. He assured me that pieces of ice only to be described as séracs were falling upon his head. He expressed, with some warmth, the hope that I should soon have made myself entirely comfortable—indeed, surely by now I must have room not only for myself but also for a bath chair ! Before long I had roped in between Smythe and Bower and we said good-bye sadly to the othertwo. We felt that Fortune was treating us unkindly, for this delay and our wait in the schrund had made us at least an hour and a half late; and now we had lost two good comrades. But Fortune was more gentle than we knew, as we were yet to learn. Still in the dark we climbed the ice slope, which was steep enough for us to be glad of an occasional hand-hold on the slabby rocks close by ; and presently we worked up over a rock rib, until at 5 a.m. we stood upon the Col du Trident. A most beautiful dawn was at hand, and we paused for a minute to admire the wonderful view of the upper slopes of the Brenva Glacier and the cliffs enclosing it. We discussed again the, best way up the aréte. Should we follow Moore's route and start at the bottom of the aréte, or should we follow that adopted by most recent parties, and, after crossing the glacier high up, mount the very steep snow slopes of its N. flank, to reach its crest just where the ice aréte begins? This latter is the route that was made by Mr. R. W. Lloyd with Josef Pollingerand A. Rey, though I believe he does not recom- mend it, for he considers it dangerous. The first rope of the French parties was gradually nearing this point on the aréte, and could be seen high up, looking hike flies on a wall, tiny black spots, giving one a good idea of the immensity of the mountain architecture which makes these Italian precipices of Mont Blane so magnificent. We knew that there were dangers in this latter line of ascent— dangers which had been emphasised very strongly by Captain Tarrar in a recent note in our JourNaL. In his opinion this route is not justifiable. Both Moore in 1865 and Gissfeldt in 1892 saw avalanches fall in this area.

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The Col de la Brenva; The Arquille de Leschaux. 49 Certainly anyone who chooses it must realise that this part of the névé must be crossed early. It is essential to be well up the snow near to the crest of the Brenva aréte before the sun gets on to the vast ice cliffs which form so much of the rampart of the KE. side of Mont Blanc. And we were late. We wondered what to do. The first thing was to push on, s0 we hurried down the snow slopes from the col towards the glacier, jumped a little schrund, and began to cross the huge snow basin below Mont Maudit, making rapid progress towards the aréte. Day was at hand, and the edge of dawn was creeping down the mountain; for some minutes the sun had been shining brightly on the huge masses of ice below the Mur de la Céte. Suddenly we halted, for above us a tremendous roar was heard ; it increased like thunder, and then echoed from the cliffs—an immense avalanche of ice crashed down from the séracs below the Col de la Brenva. It rushed over the rocks and down the huge snow couloir, and above it rose into the air a dense, white mist of powdered snow and ice. - It raced across the névé, poured over the crevasses, and sweeping onwards it entirely obliterated, for an extent of fully 800 yds., the tracks lying ahead of us. The incident of Macphee’s broken axe and the time lost thereby was now understood as one of Fortune’s kindlier acts. When it was over we threw off to the left into safety and began Moore’s route up the aréte. We had a short rest on the little ‘ col’ near the foot of this ridge, which it has been suggested should be called ‘ Col Moore,’ in commemoration of the first ascent of this ridge which started at this point. This first party consisted of Messrs. A. W. Moore, J. Walker, H. Walker and G. Mathews, with Melchior and Jakob Anderegg, and the date was July 15, 1865. They of course bivouacked lower down the Brenva Glacier, as all parties used to do, until the new plan was adopted of starting from the Torino Hut. We started again with Bower leading, climbing over rocks that needed care, and up short snow slopes and couloirs, making progress towards the ice aréte. Then Smythe took over again and we advanced along its crest. This year there was enough snow on it to give good security for crampons; but it must always be somewhat sensational, not only because of its length, but also because for some yards it is cut away beneath, and one walks on an overhanging ridge of ice. Moore’s party found the ice aréte exceedingly sharp, so sharp that it was necessary to cross a good deal of it ad cheval. When one reflects that in those days the ice-axe as we know it was not part of an amateur climber’s equipment, instead of it the clumsy alpenstock had VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI.

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50 The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschauz. to be used, and that of course crampons were unknown, then I at any rate am filled with a tremendous admiration for the splendid steadiness and courage of those early mountaineers. Beyond this the ridge loses itself in a steep face of snow. I took over the lead here and found the going rather bad, for the sun had had time to soften the surface. The séracs stand- ing above look rather fearful but never seem to fall, and we toiled up this, the only dull part of the climb. On the upper part of this long slope Smythe relieved me of the very hard work. When Smythe was invalided out of the Royal Air Force early in the year, after typhoid fever—and here I wish, as a doctor, to remark that more than once I have been pained to see medical advice not treated with the respect which it deserves—the medical board told him ‘ not to go upstairs too fast.’ But perhaps I am complaining without reason, for now I come to think of it, I never have seen Smythe go upstairs. But certainly on this slope it was necessary to speak to him very severely more than once, though it must be confessed that I was thinking more of my own health than of his, for the hard work, the altitude, and a large sack did not seem to affect him in the least ; indeed, as he worked his way up the slope con- sisting of ice covered by slushy snow, cutting steps every now and then, he cheered us by telling us a long story. But we were even. more amazed when, a few minutes later, a fruity baritone clove the thin air. Smythe had burstintosong. Ican assure you that I listened spell-bound as, trilling blithely like a lark, he mounted steadily towards the blue sky—until Bower gave a sharp jerk to the rope, and thus reminded me that I had to follow them. We had our last rest where the top of this snow joins some rocks. I was again allotted the honoured post of leader, and we now began to make our way through the highest séracs. The work was very interesting, for though the steps of the previous party were before us, yet now that the snow was melting, cutting had to be done in several places where they had been safe on crampons alone. The route winds in and out amongst huge cliffs of ice and along irregular terraces and ledges often steep enough for hand-holds to be necessary, whilst the axe is used in one hand only. It ends with a steep step about 15 ft. high, which has been spoken of as an ice- chimney. It 1s not far short of vertical, and here many of the steps could be only toe-holds. In certain years it might well be impassable, :

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“ a . Cad Phot. W. H. Amstutz. THE PETERET ARETE, WITH BRENVA RIDGE si didaeepaelid. from Mont Maudit.

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XAVHOSSAT Ad ATMNDIV JO AVA “MN “UIyUocy “CAA “0Ud sassvuol sassvuofr XOVHOSAT ad ‘v NOTVIINOLY SALIL&Ad SALILAd SAG 109

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The Col de la Brenva; The Aigquille de Leschaur. 51 We judged it impossible to pass direct to the Col de la Brenva, because a huge and broken ice-wall intervenes. It is, however, to be remembered that Claude Wilson’s party did successfully make this traverse direct to the col, and this must indeed have been a most brilliant piece of ice-work. When, therefore, the séracs were passed, we went along a narrow shelf of névé overhung by a huge ice-cliff on the left hand, and then mounted up easy snow which leads on to the N. ridge of Mont Blane, near the Petits Rochers Rouges. This shelf was found this year to be just as described in Moore’s record of the climb in his book, ‘ The Alps in 1864.” It was now very cold and rather late, namely 2 p.m., and this decided us to adhere to our original plan of traversing the Col de la Brenva to Chamonix. We descended quickly along the Mur de la Céte to the col, and began to go down by the Corridor route, where we presently found ourselves in tracks; these proved to be those of the Frenchmen who had taken this route down from the summit of Mont Blanc. After some time we saw them reascending, for they had found the séracs unsafe, and they gave us a helpful shout to pass above the little patch of rock lying below the Rochers Rouges. From this point onwards the descent to the Grands Mulets is, of course, easy, though it takes a long time. After tea we started from the Grands Mulets at 6 p.m., and descended across the Bossons Glacier to the Pierre & |’Echelle. Everyone of whom we asked the way assured us that we could not possibly reach Chamonix that night. But Smythe led downwards with the same judgment that he had shown during the day, and in the dark kept to the path, even when it seemed to me like parts of the untrodden Congo. We reached Chamonix at 10 p.m. ; the climb had taken us about 21 hrs., the conditions had been perfect, and since leaving the Torino we had been up and down more than 17,000 ft. We agreed that the Brenva is a magnificent climb. The N.W. Face of the Aiguille de Leschauz. (8770 m. = 12,865 ft., B.I.K.) The Aiguille de Leschaux is a mountain full of charms, and one of these is its shyness, for it hides itself modestly in a secluded corner of the Mont Blanc Range. There are no easy passes in its neighbourhood, nor any summits very commonly visited. If it stood where the Grépon stands, it would be quite as popular, for it is built of the same magnificent rock, and its

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52 The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschauz. N.W. face is as steep as the Nantillons face of the Grépon itself ; so also is that part of it which stands above the Glacier de Triolet. I may mention that the B.I.K. map does not depict this clearly. Though so modest, the Aiguille de Leschaux does not entirely hide its beautiful form from anyone who mounts the Mer de Glace towards the séracs of the Géant Glacier, but for full appreciation it must be more nearly approached. Anyone who follows the well-known and oft-trodden track that leads from—Shepherd’s Bush to Ealing, will find near Acton a vast building of an immense girth and many cubits high, its walls pierced with a thousand windows. In this are stored all the records of the Ministry of Pensions, very accurate in detail, enormous in quantity. Some day it may be necessary for the Alpine Club to construct such a building in Savile Row, to house the records of the manner in which each mountain came by its wounds. But for the present, and for a long time to come, this is totally unnecessary—all one has to do is to ask Captain Farrar. So when, in 1926, he told me that the French face of the Aiguille de Leschaux had not been climbed, I felt that it was time to ‘ get one’s nose up against the rocks ’ and see if it might not be managed. Some reconnaissances in this year showed me that an aréte, which is marked on the map as descending from near Point 8571 m. to the Glacier de Leschaux, offered a possible line along which to make the assault. Where this fades away in the face of the mountain, the climb would surely become difficult, and the last of the two huge steps that lead to the summit might well prove impossible. But I felt that the small patch of snow to the right of this gave hopes of a possible traverse to avoid this obstacle. I was fortunate in getting the Arolla guide, Joseph Georges, Le Skieur, for this attack, and we started on August 8 for the Couvercle Refuge. There we spent the evening basking in the sun, wondering whether this ancient hostel was built after the large rocky slab of the Aiguille du Moine had descended, or whether, as seems more probable, the architect was about to add a top story—when the hid fell, and so prevented for ever the development of this wholly inadequate resting place! The guardian of the hut, the old Corporal, did his best, by a strict and disciplinary disposal of our bodies, to give us a com- fortable night, and the next morning we started at 2.40 a.m.

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AOTTEA WOpplH ,, 241 UMOp Buryoo] SASSVYOl SALILLAd HL ‘oeNoAIg plo 94} WOIs YOCIN VANAYA P4L ‘PEM OU 39d *sSunsepy “5 (2) 204g

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The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschaux. 58 across the Glacier de Taléfre, passing above its séracs to the Pierre & Béranger and from there descending to the Glacier de Leschaux. Here we met Monsieur Morin and a friend, who were working up the glacier towards the Col des Hirondelles. Bidding them au revoir, we moved away to the left and at 5 a.M. put on the rope ; we then began to mount into that basin of the Leschaux Glacier which is surrounded by the Aiguille de l’Eboulement, the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses. At first we advanced in the direction of the latter mountain but soon found several large crevasses which were impassable. We had therefore to move over towards the rocky spur descend- ing from the Aiguille de l’Eboulement, and even here could only get through the ice-fall with difficulty—indeed at one time it looked as if we should be stopped altogether. When above this we traversed to the right, and were near the foot of the aréte which I have mentioned at 6.380 a.m. Joseph then did some step-cutting across hard snow, and we reached the rocks 20 min. later—where we had a rest and some food. After breakfast we began to climb the aréte, keeping for the most part on its right side and a little bit below its crest. This was rather difficult, so that we often moved only one at a time. Presently, over a point where this small aréte is lost on the mountain, we climbed round a gendarme and then descended some 80 ft. to reach and to pass below the triangular patch of snow which is seen from the Leschaux Glacier to lie in the centre of the mountain. An unusually wide and deep couloir comes down to the left-hand edge of this snow from near the N. crest of the mountain. It lies behind and is shut in by that main aréte which 1s shown on the map. It is indeed much more than a couloir—it is a veritable valley, and what is more a hidden valley, into which it 1s quite impossible to see except from the Petites or Grandes Jorasses. I had always taken a special interest in hidden valleys—that is, ever since my parents recounted to me the activities of that enterprising explorer, ‘ Sinbad the Sailor.’ And here we were in just such a place, and it was delicious to think that no one had been there before us. I confess I was a little concerned as to how we should get out at the top of it, for of course I realised that there was only the slightest chance that any passing merchants would throw joints of meat into our valley ; unfortu- nately we had none in our sacks, and it seemed most improbable that a few packets of Maggi soup would attract any eagles. It was also most depressing to remember how very rarely nowadays the Alpine skies are darkened by that monstrous but

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54 The Col de la Brenva; The Aiguille de Leschauz. kindly bird, the Roc; and I was not at all sure that Joseph possessed the same facility for lifting travellers ! Stones do not appear to fall down this couloir; but anyhow we were safe from them, for most of the time we climbed high up along the side of the aréte. At 10 a.m. we had finished this part of the climb, for the aréte dies away gradually in the face of the mountain. After a short rest we began to climb up straight towards that final step which lies N. of the summit. This part of the ascent was the hardest climbing that we met with, for though the rocks are of perfect quality, they are very steep, and have the same formation as those of the Aiguille du Géant. That is to say, there are large slabs with intervening cracks and ledges, and though the smallest holes suffice for stability and even for upward progress, yet belays of any sort were scarce and con- sequently very special care was necessary. For long periods it was only possible to move one at a time, and Joseph frequently went out to the full limit of the rope before allowing me to follow him. About half an hour below the final step, while we were climbing high up on the N.W. face, we came to a particularly difficult part, and here Joseph found a piton and recent scratches on the rocks for a few feet below it, whilst, above this point, there were more tracks leading upwards to the summit. I have subsequently learned that in July of this year an Italian party ascended the mountain by the N. aréte, and, although details are not available, it seems clear that this was accomplished wa the Col de Leschaux, attained from the Italian side.? Whilst Joseph was studying the piton, I was about 20 ft. below him, my left foot on a narrow but secure ledge, and there were a few holds for one hand. I got very tired of this position, for Joseph’s investigation of the piton lasted for a long time. He did not like the look of it. Naturally, he was disappointed at its presence, but he was still more disappointed by its in- security. He would not trust it as a foothold, nor even as a handhold, and without it the step was exceedingly difficult. I watched him make several attempts to get up without using it, but this was too dangerous. Then he tried to plant his 1ce-axe with the point jammed into a crack so that the head 2 July 31, 1927. The party was composed of Signori F. Ravelli, A. Gaia and G. Rivetti, with Adolphe Rey and A. Chenoz. R.M. 1928, pp. 12-15.—Editor.

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The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschauz. 55 would make a foothold, but he could not get it securely fixed. And so presently I was told to climb up to him and share for a few moments the narrow ledge on which he stood. As there was not room for two people here, I was quite glad when he succeeded in climbing above me whilst I firmly held the axe for him to stand on. Then I had a considerable wait, during which he went out to the full limit of our twenty metres rope. It was now my turn to follow, and this I did with a good deal of grunting, for he had left me his sack, which contained his boots (he was climbing in kletterschuhen), and also his ice-axe. With a good deal of difficulty, my position not being very secure, I managed with the one hand that could be spared to get his rucksack over the top of my own, which itself was bulky, for amongst other things it contained the spare rope, and my axe was attached to it also, and then, to sling his axe round one wrist. Joseph gave a good heave which got me up the first few feet, but after that he seemed to lose interest. No doubt he was thinking, and very properly so, that I ought to be allowed to enjoy to the full the honourable post of porter to a distinguished guide! Above this, careful climbing from ledge to ledge continued to be necessary, and thus we presently reached the northernmost end of the shoulder for which we were alming. On this rocky angle, which is perhaps 150 ft. below the real summit, we found a cairn built by our prede- cessors. The isthmus connecting this with the final aréte is as narrow, and, indeed, as cruelly sharp, as that flake of rock which leads to the Passage du C.P. on the Grépon; on its N.E. side the rocks are cut away beneath it and its knife-edge crest overhangs the Triolet Glacier. From this point one gets a magnificent view of the cliffs dropping from the summit of the mountain down to this glacier. I do not think that anywhere, even on the Grépon, have I seen a steeper wall of rock. Scrambling astride the knife-edge we reached the final and very steep cliff below the summit. As I had expected, it was not possible to climb this directly. But the idea of turning it by means of the little patch of snow on the N.W. face proved to be practicable. This part of the ascent, although by no means easy, was not so difficult as much of the slab-climbing which we had had lower down. We mounted by the snow, and then by the rocks which lie between the edge of the cliff on the left and an open couloir on the right. At 1.80 p.m. we reached the summit. A discussion as to the best way home revealed the fact that neither of us had passports with us, and without them we felt

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56 The Col de la Brenva; The Arguille de Leschauz. unwilling to enter a foreign country. I had hoped that there might be a practicable way from the ridge between the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Monte Gruetta, down the Glacier de Triolet, and so over the Col de l’Eboulement towards the Mer de Glace. But the cliffs are, as I have said, of extraordinary steepness. We decided therefore to make for the Col des Hirondelles. The descent began at 2 p.m., and we followed the tracks of other parties down the ordinary snow route towards the Glacier de Frébouzie. Presently we left these, and keeping close under the rocks on the §. face of the Petites Jorasses we passed an interesting hour in threading our way through the séracs. At 8.20 p.m. we began to mount steep snow slopes towards the Col des Hirondelles. Although there were tracks in which we followed, this was hard work, for the snow was now soft. Also, we had had only very few and very short rests throughout the day. But at 5.15 p.m. we were on the top of the pass. As we discussed the col during the 20 min. rest which we had on its summit, it became apparent that both of us had for many years wished to cross it, and we were delighted at the prospect of now doing so. Curiously enough, by the time we reached the bottom of it our views had changed, but they were in no way divergent, for we both agreed that never again would we descend it ; and that if ever we were going to climb up it, we would only do so if we were allowed to be the leading rope. The rocks are not difficult, but are of the most abomin- able quality, hardly any of them are sound, and, as they are decidedly steep, it 18 necessary to climb with great care. We began to climb down by keeping to the rib of rocks on our right. Presently we traversed to the left on to the rib nearest the Grandes Jorasses, and later back again on to the right-hand nb, which descends to a lower level. So long as we were on the crests of the rocky ribs we felt fairly safe, but on their sides and when crossing the narrow couloir between them there was real danger from falling stones. There were not many of these, though I remember one which, though I did not see it, sounded as it passed exactly like a fid of 5-9 high-explosive shell. But when we got on to the névé we saw the immense masses of rocky débris which we ourselves had hurled down during the descent, and I really felt rather ashamed of this, for we seemed to have done a good deal of damage which could not easily be put right, and I feared that the French Government might take action against us for mutila- tion of the landscape. On leaving the rocks and reaching the

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The Col de la Brenva: The Airguille de Leschauz. 57 snow, we traversed slightly to our left across a deep trough worn in the snow, and then worked down towards the berg- schrund. I felt certain that we should not be able to cross it at this place, and begged Joseph to allow me to traverse more to the right again. However, to do so would involve more risk of stones, and he urged me to descend farther in order to make a closer inspection. I did so unwillingly, and soon reached the upper lip of ‘the bergschrund. The prospect was not encouraging. Indeed, the appearance of the immediate foreground seemed to me just like that of Aldwych seen from the top of Bush House. Realising that it was impossible to convey this idea to Joseph, I pressed him to come and look for himself. He descended promptly and agreed that no solution of the problem could be evolved per saltum, so, cutting rapidly across to the right, he made for a somewhat battered flake of snow which had split off from the edge of the schrund. Down this I then worked cautiously and was so able to get underneath the overhanging upper lip of the crevasse. It was much narrower here, and an easy jump landed us on the lower edge and the névé beneathit. It was now 8 p.m., for the descent had taken us 2 br. 25 min. We moved off at once, bearing to the right close beneath the massif of the Petites Jorasses, and we were soon surprised to hear a cheering shout from Monsieur Morin, who had decided to bivouac near by in order to be able to make some recon- naissances in the early morning of the following day.* He and his companion seemed very comfortable on a rocky ledge and, wishing them good luck, we hurried down the glacier. In fading light we passed the Aiguille du Tacul and, about dark, reached an evil locality where, in the wildest disorder of séracs and boulders, all the crevasses and moraines in the Alps undoubtedly unite with one another. But Joseph was not to be checked and made a faultless passage to reach the easy route along the Mer de Glace. At 11.10 p.m. we reached the Montenvers—and a certain bottle that opened with a pop. 3 We understand that a new G.H.M. ‘shelter-hut’ is to be erected about this spot.—Edutor.

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58 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the THE First Ascent oF Mont BLANC DIRECT FROM THE BRENVA GLACIER AND OTHER CLIMBS IN 1927. By F. 8. SMYTHE. (Read before the Alpine Club, February 7, 1927.) The Second Ascent of the Arguille du Plan by the E. face. O much has been written and said anent the weather of 1927 that it 1s beyond my powers to invent any new expression or improve on any old one. The only ingenious explanation that I have ever heard was that of a Swiss hotel- keeper during a heavy thaw at a popular winter sports resort. He said that Englishmen were responsible for the Féhn wind, and, when I asked him why, replied: ‘ Because zey opens all ze windows and 0, alas, let ze ‘ot air outside.’ When, on July 21, J. H. B. Bell and I arrived at the Montenvers the weather on Mont Blanc seemed almost to reflect the conditions on the Italian frontier. Two days later, however, it cleared and we spent a happy day in the sun prospecting a route up the icefall of the Glacier d’envers de Blaitiére. We found an easy way up the rocks of the N. side, but at one point were forced on to the glacier and wriggled through a gritty hole in the ice. We left at 1.40 a.m. the following morning, armed with the admirable electrical Jighting contrivances advocated by Mr. Unna, and, constraining once more through the gritty hole, were soon above the icefall. The Glacier d’envers de Blaitiére 1s a shy little glacier set in a cirque of truculent rock peaks. Greatest of these peaks is the Aiguille du Plan, supported on this side by a narrow scimitar-shaped buttress. It was by this buttress that Capt. V. J. E. Ryan with Joseph and Franz Lochmatter made the first ascent of the E. facein 1906. Like others of Capt. Ryan’s amazing climbs no details have been published, save for a short note by Franz, in which he said that he considered it the finest climb among the Aiguilles. Three schrunds defend the foot of the buttress. The lower two were easy; the top one awkward. We crossed well to the right, and traversed to the left to the foot of the buttress. Ryan's party gained the buttress low down, but now the sunless rocks were heavily iced. We decided therefore to

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’ vey ~ ©» Fese @eeae att f ; 4 ginitass + : Se is * + ° PRA, 3 A i i ¥ : 4% ‘ , ; e nig Ae 2 n \ . 4 ° , —_— ” =e 2. — Se / \ “y e by | Vv Yu ¥ ‘ N | — ; : f ; : ty a (ff S ” | i‘ ba we | a - * ” 7 may > ae hee A 2 ‘ 7 TY. . Phot. AIGUILLE DU PLAN (showing E. face) from Aiguille de Blaitiére.

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Brenva Glacier and other Climbs in 1927. 59 ascend the couloir between the Plan and the Dent du Crocodile and break out on to the buttress at the earliest opportunity. The couloir was in very bad condition and consisted of steep slabs covered in floury snow. There were no good stances ; feet had to kick and scrape for the joints in the slabs, and every hold be cleared of its load of snow. A malevolent little water- fall gambolled down the middle, in the teeth of which a most difficult crack had to be negotiated. We were much longer than we had anticipated and the danger from avalanches became apparent. We escaped from the danger zone not a moment too soon, for a nasty slab of hardened snow detached itself and slid down over Bell’s head as he crouched behind a rock. The slabs petered out into ice, not ice formed from snow, but ice formed from water melting above, almost black and terribly hard. Mummery’s party met with much the same thing on the N. face. We halted in an uncomfortable niche under a prominent rock face falling from the buttress and there consumed a thoughtful meal. The suggestive noises in the couloir beneath had no terrors for us now, but it was still impossible to gain the crest of the buttress. Continuing on our way we were cheered by a patch of snow, perhaps 100 ft. long, but it gave place all too soon to the pitiless ice. Higher up the slope became a veritable wall. Handholds were necessary and cutting became a constricted and tiring business. If the work was hard for the leader, the second man’s lot was the most unpleasant. As well as we could we linked the occasional rocks projecting through the ice, but these usually sloped the wrong way, and offered little service, either as belays or temporary resting places. This involved long ‘run outs’ of rope and the second man’s lot was not a happy one as he was bombarded with ice chips which, on such a steep slope, acquire a considerable velocity. But Bell endured five hours of it without complaint, while his numbed hands were bruised and cut by the cannonade. At 8 p.m. we emerged into the sunshine on the crest of the buttress. Ahead, sunny slabs beckoned us up in a great curving crest. Optimism bloomed. ‘ In three hours we shall be on the summit.’ Never was man more utterly deceived. The point at which we struck the buttress crest is perhaps 1200 ft. below the summit, and this 1200 ft. occupied 12 hrs. of climbing time. Conditions were bad. We were often opposed by unstable snow edges which gave us much work in flogging them away, but the general standard of difficulty

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60 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the is the highest that I have met with. In this I may be influenced by the gruelling preliminary work in the couloir. Many hours of cutting in ice are a poor preparation for fancy rock climbing. The climbing consisted of clean-cut cracks set in magni- ficently firm granite slabs. Seldom were these cracks less than 50 ft. in length, and often the whole of our 100 ft. rope was requisitioned while axes and rucksacks formed a third and very inefficient climbing member of the party. In one crack Bell lost his axe beyond recovery, and in another a loose stone fell and jammed my leg. But for Bell’s prompt action in climbing up and working it free a serious accident might have resulted. As it was, I escaped with nothing worse than a skinned knee. After this the lead finally changed hands and, with the exception of one or two short stretches, remained with Bell for the remainder of the climb. At about 7 p.m. we bivouacked on the only ledge we had seen capable of accommodating us. We were glad to have brought a Zdarsky tent-sack, for we were very tired and suffered from cramp. ‘ We felt perfectly contented and even luxurious,’ wrote Bell in a description of the climb, ‘ as we lay back and admired the glorious crimson of the sunset on the Grandes Jorasses.’ The night was perfect with scarcely a breath of wind and finally we slept. At 5 a.M. the sun rose in a cloudless sky, but we waited until 7 before starting as there had been a hard frost overnight. To fresh men the work was easier, but an awkward snow bulge and unstable snow edges took a long time. At length we found ourselves beneath a 100 ft. step in the buttress where further advance seemed hopeless. The solution lay in a traverse low down to the left, and for this Bell removed his boots. I have never seen a more exposed or delicate traverse and I realized as I studied Bell’s progress that I was watching the finest piece of rock climbing that I had ever seen. As I clawed and dangled and swung round myself I began to suspect Bell of becoming a sort of climbing ‘ Faust’ and of making certain arrangements with ‘ Mephistopheles.’ Chimney after chimney, and crack after crack followed, until we realised with joy that we were just beneath the final buttress sweeping up to the summit rocks. But seemingly the only way up was an ugly narrow vertical crack which appeared to ease off in a slope some 15 ft. higher. Once again Bell took off his boots and I gave him a shoulder. But this time he could make nothing of it.

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Brenva Glacier and other Climbs in 1927. 61 There seemed no other way. The situation was distinctly ugly. It was long after midday, and we were actually dis- cussing the chances of another night aloft or the more than disagreeable alternative offered by retreat or a series of rappels down into the couloir to the §. The peak had to go. We descended and traversed to the right. I was first and shouted to Bell. ‘There’s a chimney ahead; looks not too good; full of ice; but it might go.’ Ignoring this gem of logic Bell joined me and started up the chimney. Ice filled the interior, but he was able to utilize a crack in the right wall. Fifty feet up further progress appeared impossible. The chimney thinned out into a wicked overhang that leered down upon us. But now came one of those dramatic surprises the mountains reserve for the mountaineer. Right across the hopeless wall to the left and unseen from below ran a narrow ledge. Half wondering what further frightfulness the mountain might have in store for us, we passed along it. The ledge broadened. We walked. There was snow ahead and on it three people, two guides and a voyageur, were descending by the ordinary way. We threw off the rope, raced past them, and a minute or two later stood on the summit of our peak. The * Knubel’ Chimney on the Grépon. The * Knubel ’ chimney on the Grépon was first led by Josef Knubel during the first ascent of the Grépon by Mr. G. W. Young’s party from the Mer de Glace. Coming at the end of many hours of exacting rock climbing it may fairly be described as an amazing tour de force. Messrs. Bower, A.8. Pigott, E. H. Pryor and Morley Wood, who made one of the earlier ascents of the Grépon from the Mer de Glace, attempted this chimney, but failed. Bower was naturally anxious to try once more, so accordingly one pleasant sunny day he and I wandered gently up from the Col des Nantillons to the foot of the chimney which is one of the most forbidding places that I have ever set eyes upon. To the subsequent proceedings my only contribution con- sisted in offering myself as a foothold while Bower climbed the rocks above a stone wedged half-way up the chimney. The limit of the possible is reached by these rocks and our tactics were similar to those employed on overcoming the ‘Flake Crack’ on Scawfell. The leader threads the rope behind the wedged stone, brings the second man up and ties him on. The leader threads his own rope through the loops,

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62 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the and utilizing the second man as a foothold, completes the ascent. I must confess that, when my turn came, I was thankful not only for sustained hauling, but to have an additional rope let down as handhold. I was thus dragged like a lobster from beneath a rock feebly gasping into the summit sunshine where I congratulated Bower on his wonderful feat. The objection to the Grépon 1s the thoroughly unjustifiable traverse beneath the séracs of the Nantillons glacier. It is the most perilous ‘standard ’ route that I have seen, and we were in great danger during our descent. The Arguille Blanche de Pétéret. At 9 a.m. on August 10, G. Graham Macphee and I swung on weighty sacks and stepped out along the dusty road from Courmayeur to the Val Veni. We were bound for the traverse of Mont Blane by the Pétéret ridge from the Bréche des Dames Anglaises. This great traverse, without question the longest in the Alps, was accomplished in its entirety by Herren Obersteiner and Schneider on July 81 and August 1; repeated by Herr von Kehl with two guides and a porter on August 4 and 5 of this year. Both parties bivouacked on the ridge; the first party below the Aiguille Blanche, and the second party on the Col de Pétéret. Conditions promised well. The weather of late had been bad, but many days of waiting and disappointment seemed on the eve of being rewarded. The ugliness of grey skies and sullen cloud roofs was gone, and only a silver lock of cloud trailed from the summit of Mont Blanc. As we trudged along the military road in the Val Veni, I looked upon the huge ramparts whose intricacies we hoped to unravel; the black precipices of the Aiguille Noire; the mass of the Aiguille Blanche so elusively foreshortened. How vast they look, and yet that vastness 1s but a tithe of their real majesty. Before entering upon the wilderness of boulders below the slopes leading up to the Gamba hut we rested and feasted on luscious bilberries. Placed between slabs of bread and butter they form a delicious dish undreamt of in the plulosophy of Mrs. Beeton. The Gamba hut is situated on a little oasis of greenery enclosed by the jaws of the Brouillard and Petéret ridges.

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Brenva Glacier and other Climbs in 1927. 68 Glaciers riven and torn crawl down on either hand. Uneasy sounds of mountain strife; the forces of gravity and decay come ceaselessly to the ear: the harsh roar of stones and the growl of stricken séracs echo threateningly around the cirque of splendid peaks. To the S. the fair pastures of the Val Veni are at our feet, and beyond gentle hills stretch to the snowy mountains of Cogne. Long hard work was in front and we stretched ourselves on the bunks for two hours of rest. Other parties had meanwhile arrived; Messrs. Eustace Thomas and A. Ziircher with Josef Knubel and Josef Lerjen; Dr. Hugo Miiller with some friends and an Italian party. At 5.15 p.m. we left, with the good lucks and ‘ Gute Reises ’ of our friends in our ears. At 6.15 p.m. we stood on the Col de ]’Innominata. I know of no scene more damning to hope and optimism than the Pétéret ridge seen from here. The day was nearly spent, and the great wall opposite looked terribly forbidding in the half- light. The livid huddle of séracs beneath seemed like some ghostly gathering, the sliced precipices of the Aiguille Noire, a dungeon wall. Our avenue of advance was the slender nbbon of snow couloir to the Bréche des Dames Anglaises first followed by Messrs. G. Winthrop Young and H. O. Jones in 1912. A loose and unpleasant descent from the Col de l’Innominata brought us to the Fresnay Glacier. The glacier is broken and torn. The best way across lay above the icefall, but how to get there? There was nothing for it but to skulk in the wilderness of fallen ice blocks beneath the séracs. And we must hurry; already the first star shone tranquilly far removed from our absurd problems. Momentary indecision gave place to fierce energy as we struggled and scrambled between the fallen blocks lying piled like the discarded bricks of the Ice King’s children. Now over a half-choked crevasse, now leaping a cleft, now balancing on a slender edge, or crawling like rats through narrow corridors of polished ice. But at length the labyrinth was behind ; we stamped our crampons into more sedate ground beneath the couloir. The bergschrund is a formidable one, but we turned it by a snow bridge on the left and traversed back above into the couloir. A full moon seizing the torch of day shone obligingly straight into the couloir and we mounted rapidly over steep hard snow.

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64 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the It had long seemed evident that we were carrying far too much, and we were glad to sit down on some rocks and transfer some of the edible portion of it to a more convenient receptacle, which had for some time been advertising its grievances in no uncertain manner. Even so, our sacks still remained very heavy and I suggested to Macphee that we should jettison something. To give weight to this idea I seized a large lump of cheese and hurled it down the slope to the bergschrund. It was the only occasion on the expedition when Macphee displayed emotion. About two-thirds of the way up the couloir forks into a y, the arms of which contain the rock pinnacle of L’Isolée. We mounted by the left branch, which is narrow and deeply cut. No moonlight reached us, but reflection served to light the way. The angle steepened ; the snow thinned, ice supervened. The silence was broken by the thud of the axe. Little frag- ments hissed away into the void; the Goblins, if there were any, came forth to inquire into this disturbance of their nocturnal revels. Two hundred feet below the Bréche we took to the rocks on the left, but they were evil and untrustworthy and gave us a foretaste of the many hours’ climbing to follow. Keeping always on the W. face of the Aiguille Blanche we climbed until 2 a.m. when, the moonlight failing, we bivouacked in a peculiarly draughty place until 5 a.m. Grey cheerless light stirred us to action. Numbed and fumbling we made hot tea and duly blessed its calories of life- giving heat before commencing to clamber, a trifle stiffly, up the rocks to the crest of the 8.E. ridge. We struck the ridge too high and had to descend some way before we could traverse across the base of the Grand Gendarme.? This pinnacle rivals the Grépon in size and yet it is but an incident in the S.E. ridge of the Aiguille Blanche. The scale of this mountain 1s amazing. Hour after hour passes; progress seems a mockery. If the W. face is loose, the E. face is a ruin. All the morning it was alive with stones. The dawn had not been promising and the weather now showed signs of changing for the worse. We debated on our position. ‘To go back was vetoed because of the dangers of the couloir which rains stones from an early hour. ‘The K. 1 Messrs. Young and Jones took the right branch. 2 Punta Gugliermina, ca. 4000 m.

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Phot. T. G. Bitown, | TAKEN FROM BASE OF “BENDING RIDGE” looking across branch couloir. Showing average inclination of slopes. =. ; mn Fes in * Some “ft ‘ ; ee, ~~ - s \s ‘> \ . » eo Z Phot. T. G. Brown. THE UPPER ICE SLOPES BELOW THE UPPER SERAC WALL.

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‘opis ABUSOS OY} Wd] Lada Lad SHHOWAUE ANV SHSIWIONV SANVd 4d ‘109 AHL AO NOILSV@ NOON AHL “JOON “H 04d “ZU OFNH “IOUd ~ : 7 4

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Brenva Glacier and other Climbs in 1927. 65 face was equally unpromising. We decided to go on to the Col de Pétéret. It was snowing as we hurried over the summit ridge, while a fierce wind arose as we descended to the Col de Pétéret. Where we should normally have advanced both together, the wind enforced caution and we could only move singly. At 8 p.m. we reached the col. A hurricane was now blowing on Mont Blanc and the noise of it resembled the deepest note of a great cathedral organ. The Col de Pétéret itself was a fearful sight. The snow came whirling through the gap in a furious writhing tourmente, while ever and anon came the mad crash of falling rocks from the crumbling cliffs on the Brenva side of the col. We knew nothing about the route down to the Fresnay Glacier and were even unaware that it had never been descended, but we realised, through some curious inexplicable instinct, that it offered the best avenue of escape and we were determined to get down somehow. A bastion of rock a thousand feet high falls from the upper bay of the Fresnay Glacier to the lower. The glacier itself is impracticable and drops in a nearly vertical wall of ice for many hundreds of feet. The rock bastion is thus the only direct line of descent from the Col de Pétéret. High up, the rocks of the bastion are smooth and slabby and offer no belays or support. A slip must result in destruction to the whole party, and it is probably here that Professor Francis Balfour and his guide Johann Petrus lost their lives after what was, in all likelihood, the first ascent of the Aiguille Blanche. Against our will we were forced off the rocks into the couloir between the bastion and the Aiguille Blanche. But here, unexpectedly, we found good snow and proceeded quickly, keeping as close to the side as possible, for the couloir 1s con- stantly raked by stonefalls. Lower down, where the couloir narrows, the snow gave place to ice, and the danger from stones made a traverse back on to the rocks of the bastion advisable. We were frequently in danger from stones blown off from above, while now and again gusts of enormous hailstones beat down upon us. At such times we could only crouch down close to the rocks. It was no time for half measures. We cut our rope up into loops, and using our 100 ft. line roped down. But these rocks are climbable and there is no question that a party retreating from the Pétéret ridge in bad weather will be well advised to follow this route in preference to the E. face where Herr Richardet was killed. VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. F

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66 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the An awkward chimney, a short ice slope and a treacherously bridged bergschrund brought us at last to the Fresnay Glacier. Light was failing as we hurried down, wondering how we were going to fare on the sérac wall. But fortune favoured us and we found footsteps and a neat little staircase cut up a cunning recess between the séracs. It was the work of Josef Knubel in prospecting the route to the Col de Pétéret for Kustace Thomas’s party. So down we went, and presently climbed the weary little couloir and loose rock face to the Col de l’Innominata. It was almost dark when we reached the col where, with nothing but easy ground separating us from the Gamba hut, we paused to watch a baleful lightning flicker. With incredible rapidity the storm approached. Never had we seen such a storm. Its ferocity surpassed those of the Argentine. The ragged edges of the Brouillard and Pétéret ridges flamed with a continuous mauve fire, while the hollow roll of thunder was flung from precipice to precipice in tremendous waves of sound, until it seemed that we were enclosed within the jaws of some monstrous dragon breathing hatred upon the world. We heard afterwards that there was a cloudburst over Montreux and a storm of unprecedented violence over the Italian Lakes, but Mont Blanc was the presiding genius, and we stumbled down the moraine half blinded by the hail and electrical] discharges. At 9 p.m. we reached the hut. Our entry savoured of the best old-fashioned drama. The door opened to a blaze of lightning and crash of thunder and in we went. As one man the inhabitants arose from the bunks and cheered. Kindly hands pulled our sopping clothes off our backs; our boots from our feet. Exciting liquids were poured down our throats ; a hot meal prepared. The return of the Prodigal Son was a poor affair compared to ours. And when at last our friends had ceased their ministrations we turned in, to listen thank- fully to the straining of the hut on its wire leashes and the wild raving of the storm outside. The Col Maudit. In 1921 the Signori Gugliermina, de Petro and Ravelli made the first ascent of the Col Maudit from the Géant Glacier.® It was 8 4.J. 35,120; but see Jbid. 14,151 for a probable previous ascent, 188s.

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Brenva Glacier and other Clambs in 1927. 67 repeated from this side at a later date, while the first ascent from the N.W. was made by a French party, MM. Migot and Savard, in 1927.4 The pass has not yet been traversed. On August 18, two days after our defeat on the Pétéret, Macphee and I walked up to the Col du Géant. The Torino hut was full of Italian Generals, Admirals and Marshals of the Air—to Judge from the variety of uniforms and headgear ; we lay awake all night unable to sleep. We left thankfully at 12.80 a.m., and, in full moonlight, strolled over the snowfields. The S.W. tributary of the Géant Glacier 1s secluded from the vulgar gaze. When the moon glances over the Tour Ronde and the shadow of the Trident de la Brenva is thrown like a devil’s toasting-fork across the bosom of the glacier, the ‘ little folk who dwell in the hollow hills ’ steal out from the mysterious places in the cliffs of the Capucin. But, alas for imaginings, one ordinary remark was sufficient to restore the ‘ normal suburban equilibrium ’ of the party. We crossed the bergschrund without difficulty at 2.80, and climbing in crampons ascended steep icy snow to a rock rib. The rock was good and we continued happily. A murmur above, sometimes swelling to a grow], spoke of wind, but as yet we were sheltered. Rock climbing by moonlight is more dignified and restrained than in the day time. One advances leisurely, inspired by the absence of necessity for haste. There is none of the ‘Come on, ‘Buck up, ‘Both together now,’ sweating, hard breathing, late afternoon methods. Lach hold is a link in a gradual progression, to be grasped contemplatively and its merits compared to its neighbours. Each little ledge is a resting place, a belvedere of dreamy moonshine. A sérac wall several hundred feet high defends the col. We kept too high and were forced into a traverse to the left over nasty ice-glazed slabs, sprinkled with powdery snow. Dawn greeted us here; an uneasy sanguinary dawn, full of vague threats. Continuing our traverse to the right we came upon a large cairn. A steep rock face above and an ice slope brought us to the ridge a few feet to the right of the actual col at 6.85 a.m. There we met a spiteful wind and with some absurd peak- bagging instinct, turned right and trudged up the Mont Blanc du Tacul. We rested there before returning to the col and 4 A.J. 39, 331 ; Alpinisme (8), 1927, pp. 250-7, illustrated.

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68 The First Ascent of Mont Blane direct from the traversing the Co] du Mont Maudit to Mont Blanc. The wind was blowing the snow in clouds as we ground over the col and we struggled up Mont Blanc in the teeth of a full-fledged tourmente to find the French flag on the top fluttering in defiance (so we gathered afterwards) of the Italian flag on the summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur! The weather was worsening every moment and we hurried thankfully down the conventional groove, and, shortly after 6 p.m., were wallowing in hot baths at the Montenvers. The Furst Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the Brenva Glacier. (Written in collaboration with T. Graham Brown.) Towards the middle of August, T. Graham Brown and I were fortunately able to join forces. When I say fortunately, x Toe Red Sceribke hiared fie oF Mr. aie. Showing Mr. Smythe’s route. I speak personally, for bad weather and the claims of civiliza- tion had taken my friends away and I found myself at the Montenvers with many cherished but unattempted ascents. Of these, the greatest by far was an attack on’ the unclimbed Brenva face of Mont Blanc. I was therefore delighted to find

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Brenva Glacier and other Clumbs in 1927. 69 that Graham Brown was equally fascinated by this great mountain-side. Indeed, he and E. 8. Herbert had studied it previously. My own inclinations towards it had been con- siderably enhanced by the ease with which Ward, Bower and I had traversed the Col de la Brenva on August 1. If the snow, which so firmly adhered to the ice, lay uniformly on the face there might well be justification in an assault. Graham Brown and I had both discovered that only the saving grace of patience, combined with unlimited time—in my case a convalescence—made anything possible. The hurri- canes, blizzards, and thunderstorms of the early part of August had apparently settled down to their work in earnest towards the middle of that unfortunate month. One of the last to leave the Montenvers was KE. E. Roberts who cheered us up by saying that there was no bad Alpine weather in the English sense. A subsequent postcard however tersely rescinded this theory. On August 21 we climbed the Petite Aiguille Verte under wintry conditions. The weather on the 22nd again brought disappointment, which was confirmed by even worse weather on the 28rd. We were reduced to planning desperate ascents on the aiguilles traced by the barograph. Helped by @ judicious bang the unfortunate instrument would always rise nobly to the occasion, only to sink again lower than before. The other relaxation was the gambling machine—a remarkable source of revenue to the proprietor. Bell, I should add, had previously worked out the odds on every colour and had then wisely resisted its blandishments. We finally decided on a walking tour, and were glad to miss the shocking railway disaster. On the evening of the 26th we watched Mont Blanc from the Col des Aravis slowly disentangle itself from the storm clouds. The weather on the 27th was perfect, and on the 29th we returned to the Montenvers. It looked at last as though we had the conditions for our climb. On the 81st we trudged up to the Col du Géant, and on the way studied as much of the upper part of the face as is visible over the Tour Ronde ridge. Some weeks before I had heard that Dr. Giissfeldt had studied this face, but decided against it on account of the great sérac wall that runs round at the top from Mont Blane de Courmayeur to the Coldela Brenva. Again, it is remarkable that this 5000 ft. face had never been attempted. A few months previously Mr. T. B. Blakeney had suggested the possibility of an attack; Messrs. Young and Mallory had

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70 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the studied it in the past, and so had others. It was an ambition of Dr. Preuss, and also of Dr. Griinwald and Herr Bischoff, who had perished under such sad circumstances on the Aiguille de Bionnassay in the previous bad weather. Indeed, I under- stand that they were at Courmayeur in August with the object of attempting it. Could the sérac wall be surmounted or turned ? As we examined it through a small but excellent Zeiss monocular, we were overjoyed to see that the barrier would almost certainly be surmountable; but the decision must rest with the larger telescope at the Torino hut. Not the final decision—that must be left to the process of trial and error—absit omen .. .! We arrived at the hut at 10.15 a.m. and spent the whole of the morning and afternoon in careful examination of the visible part of our route. A magnificent couloir descends from just under the summit of Mont Blanc to the westernmost bay of the Upper Brenva Glacier. High up, this couloir is split into two arms by a curving rock ridge, the right fork of the Y, so formed, being comparatively short. The ridge ends above in the steep ice slopes beneath the point where the sérac wall is breached. In order to reach the curving ridge we must traverse across the foot of the branch couloir to the lowest point in the ridge and follow it up to the point where the upper ice slopes appear feasible. Through the telescope, these upper slopes seemed of an easy angle, but the telescope hed to us. Once on the bending ridge, however, we should be safe from ice avalanches and stones. But the branch couloir must be crossed early. To do this a secure bivouac as high as possible was essential ; but all these problems must wait till the morrow. All the afternoon we were faced by that terrible view. The huge Pétéret ridge to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, and the 5000 ft. face of Mont Blane sweeping round to the Col de la Brenva. How cold and repelling it seemed when the sun had left 1t, and the fear of it sank into both of us. We left at 3.30 a.m. next morning en route to the Col du Trident. Our spirits, none too high at this hour, had been further lowered by an individual in the hut who spoke depressingly of ‘ warm airs.’ The snow was soft and the wind warm as we crossed the Col des Flambeaux. On the N. side the snow became softer and deeper. We waded on until we realized the immense labour and time involved in reaching the Col du Trident and we decided to postpone the climb for yet another day and

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Brenva Glacier and other Climbs in 1927. 71 ascend to the Tour Ronde to examine the lower part of the face. We gained the Col Est de Toule and turned N.W. along the frontier ridge, traversing the Aiguille de Toule to the first point of the Aiguille d’Entréves. This was useless as a viewpoint, so we returned and descended on to the bay of the Géant Glacier lying between the Tour Ronde and the Aiguille d’Entréves. A steep snow and ice slope led up to the EK. ridge of the Tour Ronde. As we topped the ridge Mont Blanc burst upon us in all its magnificence. Far beneath, the Brenva Glacier crawls down to the meadows of the Val Veni. All day long and all night its shattered ice-falls rage at the imperious behests of gravity and the grumble of their discontent echoes sullenly around the precipices that enclose them. Higher up the glacier relents, and at the head of the ice-fall is a little bay of snow, set like a peaceful strand ‘twixt the frozen ice billows and the huge face behind. To the right of the great couloir, at the point where it narrows, & conspicuous red buttress projects from the face. It looked perpendicular and we were at once assured that here—at its base—was the idea] situation for our bivouac. Not only was it placed in an exactly suitable position for a rapid traverse of the branch couloir early in the morning, but it appeared to offer the only completely safe site for a bivouac on the whole Brenva face. Two routes to it appeared possible. The first directly from below ; the second by an upward traverse from the little ‘ col’ at the foot of the Brenva ridge. In either case this little col, which we have named Col Moore in honour of the first conqueror of the Col de Ja Brenva, must previously be reached. So delighted were we with our bivouac rock, that we have since named it the Red Sentinel or la sentinelle rouge. “The Tour Ronde is no part of a rapid or easy route from the Col du Géant to the upper Brenva Glacier; moreover, it was 10 a.m. Nevertheless we decided to push on with the climb. In this we were influenced by the perfect weather and the good snow on all southerly faces. The latter enabled us to traverse directly across the 8. face of the Tour Ronde, thereby saving probably two hours. We descended from the Col Occidental de la Tour Ronde to the Brenva Glacier, walked across the snow bay, and climbed a short but very steep little slope to the Col Moore. We at once saw that the direct route up from the Brenva Glacier to the foot of the

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72 The First Ascent of Mont Blane direct from the Red Sentinel was not to be thought of, as it involved an extremely unpleasant descent from the Col Moore to the glacier. The upward traverse across the face from the lowest rocks of Moore’s ridge above the Col Moore was the right route. To reach these rocks we had to worm our way along a sharp crest of ice, artfully overlaid by slushy snow, and an hour passed before we reached the rocks, just below the first big gendarme in Moore’s ridge. Here we halted, ate, dried our clothes and waited for the sun to pass, before starting on the traverse which involves the crossing of four couloirs. We had arrived at this point at 2 p.m. and had two or three hours to wait. We were now confident and happy. The unknown lower part of the route, which we had feared most, was now known. We rested eyes and minds on the Pétéret ridge. If foreshortened, it was yet grander than ever. We heard the roar of falls from it, but so vast is the scale we could see no falling débris. The sun left us at 8.52, but we waited until 4.50 for the snow to harden properly. The first couloir was simple, our 10-point Eckenstein crampons gave splendid purchase on the steep hard snow. The second couloir was seared by an avalanche groove 10 ft. deep and took some time. The last couloir 1s liable to be swept by falling séracs, but we raced across in a few seconds to the friendly shelter of some rocks. The whole face was as silent as the grave and we had not seen the smallest stone fall. A mixture of rocks, ice and snow took us up to the base of the Red Sentinel at 7.10 p.m. A big inward tilted slab lay beneath, covered by a cone of snow and ice. Twenty minutes’ work sufficed to fashion an alcove, protected at both ends, and large enough for our Zdarsky tent-sack. To prevent any possibility of a nightmare roll to the Brenva Glacier we drove our axes in above and securely fastened the rope thereto. We unpacked our sacks, made a hot soup and settled down to await the night. This was not long in coming. As the sun set, we saw the beautiful phenomenon described by Leslie Stephen in his classic essay ‘Sunset from Mont Blanc ’—the immense shadow of the Monarch sweeping the ranges and finally mounting the sky. Like Stephen, we were privileged to witness that other sun whose rays are shafts of darkness, but which are actually the parallel shadows of Mont Blane, apparently converging on the horizon. Yet day lingered awhile, and long after the fires were quenched

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Brenva Glacier and other Climbs in 1927. 78 and the pageant had passed on its way, an ashen glow steeped some stately cloud pillars brooding in the 8. We expected to see them lightning-lit later, but on this most perfect of late summer nights even the Thunder God slept in his couch of cumult. The air was very still. Not a breath of wind whispered around the stern figure of the ‘Sentinel’ above. It seems absurd to invest a mere rock with the attributes of sympathy and understanding; but all that night a friendly presence encompassed us, watching over the two little things that were men, who shivered and kicked and swore on that hitherto untrodden mountain-side. The night was long and bitterly cold. No comfort was to be found in our Zdarsky tent-sack. As a means of refined torture these tent-sacks are admirable. The idea is that the two victims sit inside facing each other. A few minutes of partial suffocation follow until at length, unable to gasp longer without fresh stimulus, the edge is raised and a gush of cold new air rudely forces its way into the carbon-dioxidized interior. The inside of the tent is meanwhile saturated with condensed moisture, which drips unpleasantly down the neck. In fairness, however, it must be admitted that one of these tents might prove of the greatest service to a party forced to bivouac high up in bad weather. All night long the noise of the rock and ice falls was almost continuous, chiefly from the direction of the Pétéret ridge, but one colossal fall of séracs was overhead, and the cataract of ice divided by the ‘ Sentinel’ thundered down the couloirs on either side a few yards away. We made several brews of tea and it was during one brewing that three long-drawn moans came up from the Brenva Glacier beneath. No doubt their origin was prosaic, but to us the effect was weird in the extreme. Sleep was impossible and it seemed as though the world were given over to perpetual darkness and cold. But at long last grey dawn filtered up from far Tyrol. We made tea, ate some chocolate and painfully strapped on crampons over the boots we had not removed all night. The iron stuck to our fingers with cold. At 5.80 we passed out from beneath the ‘ Sentinel ’ into the couloir on the left of it. We climbed up and across this at the greatest possible speed, and soon gained the ridge at the edge of the great couloir. There can be no finer couloir in the Alps than this immense chute. In the middle runs an enormous

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74 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the groove of polished black ice writhing down like some evil serpent. We descended into the couloir, and, keeping close under the ridge, commenced the ascent. Nothing could touch us, for a friendly rock promontory projected ahead and the hard snow over which we mounted was smooth and unscored. The angle is over 50°, but our crampons ground well into the icy snow. Yet speed was essential if we were to cross the branch couloir in safety to the curving rock ridge. At top speed we laboured on until we were nearly level with the lowest of the scattered rocks at the foot of the curving ridge dividing the main from the branch couloir. Then we rushed the branch couloir transversely towards them, finding with thankfulness that its deep avalanche channel went easily. At length we were on the ridge in perfect safety. Not a pebble had fallen. Above was a gendarme with a perpendicular face. Below this at 7.10 we sat down and rested for an hour. Our exertions up to this point had been severe. Just before starting again we saw the first stones falling down the couloirs on either hand. We thought that above the climbing would become progressively easier ; but here the telescope had entirely misled us and we found the exact opposite to be actually the case. There was, in fact, only one short portion on which we were not moving one at atime. Such is the reality that perspective may clothe with fantasy on high mountains. The rock was unexpectedly sound, a grey red granite affording delightful climbing. We turned the red gendarme on the right and gained the ridge above over steep ice. A narrow snow edge followed and we were again forced to the right over very steep ice under some rocks; we then climbed back to the ridge and continued over rock to the nearly horizontal crest separating the head of the branch from the main couloir. This crest abuts against a rock face. It was 10.80 a.m. and we sat down to another meal. Some way below us on a ledge lay a piece of wood like an aeroplane strut, or 1t may have been a bit of the old Jansen Observatory. The view was now magnificent. The ice ridge of the Brenva had sunk below us. A violet haze filled the Italian valleys over which the distant snow peaks of Cogne rose like fairy castles from a sea of dreams. Far above in grim reality loomed the final ice-wall. After building a cairn and leaving our names in a jam tin, we set out again at 11.45. Continuing along the snow crest,

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ONVTG LNOWN AO ADVA VANANA FHL 1 Agpeb ee." —_ eee

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i. § | 13 . P| Phot. T. G. Brown. THE UPPER SERAC WALL.

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Brenva Glacier and other Climbs in 1927. 75 we reached the foot of the rock face which was forced by a slanting chimney. Above we found ourselves on very steep ice slopes covered with slushy snow. And it was ice of excep- tional hardness. The axe sank in with a dull thud as though into glue, often without bringing away a chip. Many strokes were required to fashion a step, and every step represented a definite piece of hard work. Scattered about were many rocks ; we linked these as best we could by a series of ascending traverses to right or left. Against our will we were gradually forced to the right until just beneath the impending sérac wall where it sweeps round a shoulder in the direction of Mont Blane. Danger, however, there was none, for this portion of the wall was solidly built. We turned left again and clambered up to the highest rocks. We now looked right along the mighty natural fortification. Once above it we should be within the inmost.keep of the Monarch. A veil of ice javelins hung from the upper edge, and beneath the wall was sheared away as though cut by the knife of a skilled workman. From our position we saw with joy that the wall indeed ended in the ice slope we had seen through the telescope. We pressed on to the attack. On our left an ill-defined rib of ice, rounded and exceedingly steep, ran up to the left of the shoulder at the point where the sérac wall is breached. To reach it involved a traverse over steep ice. We found the rib to consist of the usual glutinous ice. We had had three hours’ cutting already and the three or four hours more that now seemed in prospect was not pleasing, but, at all events, uncertainty as to the route was now at an end, and fortune smiled. To the right of the ice rib, sheltered from the sun, two or three inches of hard snow adhered to the ice sufficiently firm and frozen to hold our crampons. We climbed rapidly and passed between some bulges that evidently formed the remains of the sérac wall. A further steep slope led up to a small corniche. The leader fell upon it furiously and flogged it down. At 8.80 we stepped over. Nothing remained save 400 ft. of easy snow to the top of Mont Blanc. Up went our arms and axes and roars of joy were flung over the edge into Italy. For many hours we had been chained to the wall; now that wall, terribly forbidding in the afternoon shadow, lay well below. We halted awhile and then toiled slowly up to the summit. It was 4.15 p.m., and, on top at that late hour, Mont Blanc seemed lonely—all our own. The evening was a beautiful one.

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76 The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from Brenva Glacier. Great clouds stood up out of the valleys in perpendicular columns like genii ; the haze in the Italian valleys had deepened to purple. We turned and trudged down the track to the Vallot hut where, in spite of the filth, we spent a comfortable night. We returned to the Montenvers next day ma the Dome du Gotter and the Téte Rousse. The proprietor and Josef Knubel joined us over the inevitable champagne. We were very happy. Before passing into sleep that night we both realized that rain had come down in torrents within ten minutes of our arrival at the Montenvers. Les Courtes from the Glacier de Taléfre. A week of bad weather followed our traverse of Mont Blanc and all Graham Brown and I were able to do was an ascent of the Grands Charmoz. We were on the point of leaving when a temporary break tempted us up to the Couvercle hut. It also tempted several dozen other people. It was snowing in desultory fashion when we awoke next morning, but at 5.50 a.m. we staggered from the combined third-rate cinema-hall cum eating-house atmosphere of the hut and gratefully gulped the fresh air. We had breakfast on a boulder before reaching the Glacier de Taléfre and afterwards walked up the glacier to the foot of the 2000 ft. rock face of Les Courtes. No one appeared to have climbed direct up this face, though a continuous buttress dropping from the summit offers the obvious and most direct route up the peak. The buttress is undercut and glaciated at its junction with the ice and we mounted a short distance up the couloir dropping between Les Courtes and the Aiguille Croulante. A steep little chimney and a short rock wall brought us to the crest of the buttress. The rocks are easy and we scrambled leisurely upwards. A curious bent crack, avoidable on the left, afforded a slight diversion, followed by 1000 ft. of easy scrambling towards the foot of a fine red tower. Below the tower the buttress constricted to a narrow ridge. The climbing here redeems the ascent from mediocrity. A traverse over snow-masked slabs, and again an ascent to the buttress crest above the tower, brought us to easier ground leading without difficulty to the summit at 2.30 P.M. The weather was not good and we hurried down via the Col de la Tour des Courtes. The descent was a misery, the snow being in execrable condition. We collected our belongings at

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Kilimanjaro in 1927. 17 the Couvercle, chatted with Monsieur de Ségogne, and as dusk was falling set off for the Montenvers. It was dark ere we left the rocks, and we flitted like dis- embodied spirits from moraine heap to moraine heap at the junction of the Glacier de Leschaux with the Mer de Glace. The scene was a remarkable one as we trudged down the Mer de Glace. In front over the Aiguilles Rouges a range of livid thunderclouds were illuminated every few seconds by fountains of lightning. Behind all was peace; ‘ The cold ice slept ’ in radiant moonlight. I rashly promised a quick route off the glacier, but only succeeded in getting into a maze of great crevasses. Finally we stood on a knife edge of ice, with the conventional abysses on either hand, while the lightning winked sardonically and the thunder rumbled with merriment. But at last Graham Brown’s better sense prevailed; we retraced our steps and finally got off and down to the Montenvers. It was snowing next day and we left for England. KILIMANJARO IN 1927, By Miss SHEILA MACDONALD. [The substance of this account is contained in a letter to Mr. Claude and Mrs. Macdonald, to whom we offer our best thanks.—Editor ‘ A.J.’] Mosa1, TANGANYIKA TERRITORY, August 2, 1927. \ R. W. C. WEST of the Alpine Club and I have climbed to the top of Kilimanjaro, and no woman has ever succeeded in getting there before. Kilimanjaro consists of two mountains —Kibo (19,710 ft.) and Mawenzi (17,300 ft.), separated by a 6-mile plateau. Mr. West and I and Major O. Lennox-Browne climbed Mawenzi first, choosing our route as we went, at least Mr. West did, and got to the highest point which had been reached by two German parties, both in 1912. We found their names and records in an old tin built into the cairn and added our names on the same piece of paper. Our camp was at the foot of Mawenzi, but we could not stand the height for two nights running, and had to descend to 12,700 ft. again before attacking Kibo. Mr. West and I were

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78 _ Kilimanjaro wn 1927. the only two to reach the top of Kibo, as Major Lennox-Browne, who suffered from the altitude, could go no further than three- quarters of the way up. I never knew that mountain sickness and lack of oxygen could be so awful. And now I had better start from the beginning, as otherwise half the account will be left out. The three of us joined together at Mombasa and came straight on here, branching off the main line at Voi. At Voi we got a ‘water train ’ to Moshi, the only conveyance for nearly a week. It stopped every four miles to distribute water at wayside halts, and we travelled all day on the footboards—eight hours, and arrived at Moshi looking like Red Indians from the red dust. Here we stopped the night and just long enough next day to collect provisions, a cook, and a personal boy. Then we travelled for 24 hrs. on a lord lorry with our camp equipment all about us, through scrub and up and down gullies—a most amazing road. Isat next to the native driver, and he was the best thing in chauffeurs I have ever seen—nothing abashed him, we took logs and ravines in our stride. We got to Marangu in the evening and interviewed Mlanga, the Chief of the Wachagga, who was to provide us with fourteen porters to take our stuff to the highest hut on the mountain. He gave us eggs, milk, and a leggy fowl, and I gave him a postcard of Kilimanjaro. He let us camp in front of his Council House. All our porters were rounded up by him, he sent out his ‘ Royal Crier,’ a picturesque gentleman in a blanket, who called the tribe together by making strange noises on & koodoo horn. From Marangu we climbed up to Bismarck Hut through dense forests very much like those Knysna forests in South Africa, but more tropical—amazing creepers and lots of signs of elephant. Bismarck Hut suffered a lot during the fighting with Smuts, etc., but still offered the shelter of thick walls and a tin roof. It is high up on the mountain with a wide view of the plain, copper-coloured in the sun, while we were in shadow and mist in the middle of the cloud-belt which always encircles Kilimanjaro. This 1s one of the things that make the mountain so wonderful. It rises straight from the plain in one sheer mass, but the base of it is always separated from the top by this circle of mist and fleecy cloud, so that the great dome of smooth snow looks completely detached from the earth like a great moon hanging in heaven, especially at night when it looks too beautiful for description. We left Bismarck Hut on July 27, and got above the cloud- belt into the sun again through a district of swect-smelling

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. 'S spreao 13.000" one I] woqe ‘yoq ysatoz oY} ies 3) oy} WOl.] *‘preuopoe yy ssiyy OU GOs’ Ze tse MY O1Z‘oL ‘oum

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Ss “SZ Ky Phot. W. > —_ , From Summit of KIBO, looking into the crater. Phor. Miss Macdonald,

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Kilimanjaro wm 1927. 79 shrubs, protea, giant heather, and gladioli to Pieters Hut, where we turned in on very comfortable grass bunks. We saw plenty of elands standing as high as cattle. Major Lennox-Browne and I crawled towards a herd on our tummies with great success, while Mr. West (otherwise the ‘ Skipper ’) diverted their atten- tion with his white helmet. We got near enough to take a photo when one of the porters dropped his load; it crashed down into the undergrowth and frightened the creatures away. We all sat outside the hut trying to spot animals with field-glasses. I found a big shaggy brown thing like a grizzly bear and distinctly saw it wag its tail, but in the morning it turned out to be an ant-hill. The way from Pieters Hut to the foot of Mawenzi leads over rough country and crosses a corner of the plateau. We put up our tents near the foot of our proposed climb and spent a very cold night inthem. In the morning, tea, ink, and the ‘ Skipper’s’ mixture of whisky and lime juice were all frozen ice. I was feeling giddy and headachey, Mr. West was violently sick and could not eat. The difficulty about Mawenzi is that there is such a mass of pinnacles and jagged ridges that the highest point is impossible to distinguish except from high up on Kibo. Several people have been up and thought themselves on the summit, discovering later that they had been on a minor peak. It is the most lovely mountain for climbing; the difficult part was the first half before we got into the couloir that leads to the top. We used the rope for a few difficult steps leading up into the N.W. gully. This gully reaches almost to the top, broken by one sheer wall, where we had to climb out on to the right- hand side of it again. There were excellent hand- and footholds, mostly alternating with exhausting slopes of scree and loose rocks. At the top of the gully were three pinnacles, which seemed to us of equal height. We found the cairn and records of the two German ascents on the most southerly and insignifi- cant looking of the three pinnacles. This is Hans Meyer Spitze (17,800 ft.). We rested here a few minutes and shuddered at the tremendous drops on the EK. side of the mountain. The summit is split into jagged pinnacles of every size, some of them only a few feet thick and piled to heights of 40 and 50 ft. From them precipices drop to sheer depths of thousands of feet. We had meant to go straight from Mawenzi to Kibo, but decided that it was worth going down to Pieters Hut to have a good rest in between, especially as Mr. West was really suffering from the height, so we had a cup of Bovril each when we came down from Hans Meyer Spitze at 5 p.m., and started back for

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80 Kilvmanjaro wm 1927. Pieters Hut, getting there at 8 p.m. Major Lennox-Browne was rather seedy, and suggested a day’s rest, which we had and enjoyed, though I rather wanted to have a ‘ go’ at Kibo while keyed up to the struggle. So Friday was a slack day, and on Saturday, July 30, we climbed up to the plateau again and made for the foot of Kibo, where there is a cave (Hans Meyer’s Hohle), where we meant to spend part of the night. The plateau was a horrid grind, slightly uphill all the way, drifting sand and the wind in our faces. When we got to the other side we discovered that the four porters we had chosen for the last lap to the cave did not know where it was, so we hunted about the rocks until I found a beauty, well sheltered, with a sandy ground—' The Sheila Cave ’ this is to be called. We turned in while the boys built a large fire in the entrance. Mr. West's idea was to start the climb at midnight, so as to get to the top at sunrise, before the heat of the sun made the ascent too difficult in soft snow. However, we only had a lantern, which was quite inadequate ; it went out five times before we decided to wait till daybreak and risk the soft snow at the top. We settled down in the scanty shelter of a rock and waited 8 brs. for light to come ; then started the most awful climb for hours upon loose rocks, stones, and sand ; everything you put your foot on slipped back with you, and after 3 hrs.’ hard climb we looked up and seemed to have made no progress. At first we rested every hour, but at about 18,000 ft. we dragged ourselves for about 20 ft. at a time with stops between each bit to get our breath in working order. However much one gasped and panted, nothing seemed to get into one’s lungs. I was rather ahead of the others, because I had found some firmer rock at about 800 ft. from the crater’s rm. When I found that the others were not following I cooeed several times, and finally Mr. West came round a mass of rocks—by himself! Major Lennox-Browne was completely finished, and could not go a step farther. I can’t understand how Mr. West could keep going, when he had been sick and dizzy with nausea. I think he was feeling rather weak just here, though he didn’t give in. Well, up to this point I had been wondering several times how long I could stick it out, but I braced myself up and was comforted by feeling that I was not the weak one of the party. Mr. West and I had a good dose of whisky and lime juice out of our drinking bottle, pulled our- selves together, and went on. We reached the crater’s edge at Johannes Notch, and bore round to the left, past Stella Point (reached by the Kingsley-Lathams last year) and on round the crater to Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze, the highest point, reached once

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Kilamanjaro in 1927. 81 before by Mr. West, in 1914, when he was the first Englishman to make the ascent. We crawled to the summit foot by foot. I am not being dramatic, it really was like that. It was just in front of us, and I thought we should never get there. You.can’t imagine the relief of leaning up against the cairn and realizing that we were there. We inscribed our names in the pocket-book that is hidden in the cairn, and split a bottle of champagne carried all the way from Moshi for the occasion. We had poor Major Lennox-Browne’s share as well, but unfortunately had to drink out of the bottle and got very little but fizziness—better than nothing, though. Several women have reached the crater’s rim, but very few people have been beyond—no women. The inside of the crater is amazing. Imagine a huge bowl of ice with hanging glaciers all round its inside walls and two great lakes of greeny-blue ice at the bottom of it, huge crevasses and séracs around its mm. I have never seen anything like it. The cold made it impossible to stay up there for long, so we took one or two photos and followed our tracks back to the crater’s rim. The way down was ridiculously easy ; we just ‘ glissaded ' down steep slopes of lava-dust and small stones, and it took us less than 2 hrs., though we took a wrong turning near the bottom and found ourselves in a narrow gully with a sheer cliff at our feet, dropping a good 80 ft. to the plateau. So we retraced our steps again (more upward scrambling !), reached our cave just in time for a 20 minutes’ rest and a cup of tea before starting on the 4 hrs.’ tramp to Pieters Hut again—anything for comfortable grass bunks and a good night’s rest. Darkness overcame us on the way, and we got lost and had to squat down where we were, with a huge fire lit as a signal to the boys at the hut. They found us at about 10 p.m. and led us to Pieters Hut with great torches of sweet-smelling shrub. There was much waving of branches to make the sparks fly. What a day ! and the next morning we had to walk 25 miles to Marangu ; dropping 8000 ft. in 7 hrs. So now it is done, and I would not have missed it for the world, though I cannot say I ever want to do Kibo again. Mawenzi I should like to do dozens of times. We have a lorry to take us and our luggage to Nairobi to-morrow, about 250 miles, as the train does not go until Saturday. You cannot imagine how splendid Mr. West has been on this expedition, always cheerful and most optimistic. The boys VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. G

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82 Kilimanjaro wm 1927. loved him, and he always managed to get things done, though none of them spoke a word of English, and all we could say in Swahili was ‘ tea,’ ‘ coffee,’ ‘ water,’ and “ prepare food.’ [In the interests of historical accuracy we reprint a letter from Mr. W. C. West published last year in the South African press. ] Srr,—As I predicted in the articles I wrote describing the recent ascent of Kilimanjaro by Miss Sheila Macdonald and myself, a considerable controversy has arisen in England, East Africa, Germany, and probably elsewhere as to who amongst lady climbers was really the first to have ascended to the very highest point of this great mountain. Since our ascent was recorded I have myself read of four claimants to this distinction, three, it will be noted, not personally, but through their friends. I will deal with them seriatim : 1. A friend of Miss Gertrude Benham wrote in September to the London Times under the pseudonym ‘ West African’ stating that this lady ascended Kilimanjaro some sixteen years ago. It is perfectly clear from Miss Benham’s own description, which appeared at the time in the Mountain Club of South Africa Annual in the form of a copy of a letter from her, that she only reached a point on the eastern rim of the crater. It should be pointed out that the E. rim of the crater is much lower than the remainder of the circle with the exception of a huge cleft to the W., the highest point of all being to the 8.W. 2. A Tanganyika friend of Mrs. Kingsley Latham (now of Tanganyika), visiting England, wrote to the Daily Mal (October 8) advancing the claims of this lady to a prior ascent in 1925 and stating that Mrs. Kingsley Latham carried her husband on the final stages of the ascent. I found it trying to carry a rucksack with a little food, wine, and a camera inside. Mr. and Mrs. Kingsley Latham reached a point now called in her honour Stella Point, and do not themselves claim to have been to the summit. Stella Point is a little beyond and slightly higher than Johannes Scharte, which is sometimes called Gillman’s Point. 8. A Mr. Watt, presumably a relative, writes also to the Daily Mail (October 8) stating that Miss Stuart Watt of Marangu, Tanganyika, also reached the summit on Septem- ber 19, 1926. This lady reached Johannes Scharte (notch) on the eastern rim of the crater and herself claims nothing more.

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Kilymanjaro in 1927. 83 It took Miss Macdonald and myself about two hours to reach the highest point after leaving Johannes Scharte. 4. Fraulein Miiller wrote a somewhat assertive letter to the East African Standard of September 21, claiming to have been to the summit with Herr G. Nordhaus on July 7, three weeks before our ascent, and basing her claim upon the fact that ‘ her name appears above Miss Macdonald’s in the records kept on the mountain.’ So it does, in the records kept in the tin at Johannes Scharte, but their signatures are not to be found in the record book proper at the summit of the mountain. Since I left East Africa, Major Perkins of Moshi, Tanganyika, has made exhaustive inquiries into this claim and in a letter to the East African Standard (October 17) he completely demolishes it. Fraulein Miller and Herr Nordhaus were associated with a film production and ascended to the rim of the crater on three occasions—June 27, July 8, and August 28—with a different native guide upon each occasion. Major Perkins, at considerable trouble, has interviewed each guide and taken statements from the three of them. Fraulein Miller and Herr Nordhaus im their letter claim specifically to have reached Kaiser Wilhelm Point on July 8 (not 7th). Of this, Major Perkins reports that ‘ Mikane of Mamba, the guide on that occasion, was absolutely definite in his replies and most emphatic in stating that neither Fraulein Miler nor Herr Nordhaus went further than Johannes Scharte.’ Major Perkins’s own conclusions are ‘ that from the evidence of the guides, it would appear that Fraulein Miller and Herr Nordhaus did not reach Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze. I am con- vinced that . . . their letter was written in good faith, but the evidence of all the guides is so strongly against them.’ All of these climbs are worthy of admiration, but they can not be claimed as complete ascents of Kilimanjaro. Whilst on this subject I might mention that in the 1927 edition of the South and East African Year Book it states that Messrs. Gillman and Nason made the first British ascent of Kilimanjaro in 1921. Messrs. Gillman and Nason reached Johannes Scharte only, claiming nothing more themselves. This point is now sometimes called Gillman’s Point, though Mr. Gillman himself and those who know the origin of the naming of Johannes Scharte deprecate any change being introduced. I reached the real summit in June 1914. I should make it perfectly clear that in no instance is wilful misrepresentation suggested. The whole trouble arises from

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84 Kilimanjaro in 1927. the fact that there is a general looseness in the use of mountaineering terms amongst members of the community not directly interested in mountaineering. The crater of Kibo is known to crown the mountain, and if anyone has viewed the interior of the crater it is quite understandable that their friends would imagine that they had been to the top of the mountain. But to mountaineers an ascent means a climb to the very highest point, wherever that may be. It may be advanced that I have been somewhat too dogmatic and assertive in my statements above, but I have investigated in detail and studied the climbing records of Kilimanjaro for some years, and I wish these points cleared up and controversy avoided in years to come. To the best of my knowledge, the following is a complete list of the ascents of Kibo and Mawenzi to their respective highest points : K1Bo. 1889 (Oct. 6) Professor Hans Meyer and Ludwig Purtscheller. 1909 (July 6) Herren Max Lange and Weigele. 1912 (Dec. 8) Walther Furthwangler and Siegfried Koenig. 1914 (Feb. 18) Walter von Ruckteschell and Carl von Salis. 1914 (June 10) William C. West. 1925 (Dec. 5) G. Londt with Oforo (native guide). 1926 (July 4) Dr. D. V. Latham with Oforo (native guide). 1927 (July 17) Rev. R. Reusch with Oforo (native guide). 1927 (July 31) Sheila G. Macdonald and Wiliam C. West. 1927 (Oct. 14) Rev. R. Reusch with Oforo (native guide). 1927 (Oct. 27) Herr Zeidler. MAWENZI. 1912 (June 29) Dr. Fritz Klute and Eduard Oehler. 1912 (Nov. 27) Walther Furthwangler and Siegfried Koenig. 1927 (July 28) Sheila G. Macdonald, Major O. Lennox-Browne, and William C. West. There is no evidence or proof whatever that any lady other than Miss Macdonald has been upon the highest point of Kibo, and, with regard to Mawenzi, which she also ascended, no prior claims have been advanced. I am, Yours truly, (Signed) Wiiu1am C. WEsT. Tuer ALPINE CLuB, LONDON, November 16, 1927.

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Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. 85 Some JOURNEYS THROUGH THE MouUNTAINS OF IcELAND. By ATHOLE MURRAY. T was Lord Dufferin’s ‘ Letters from High Latitudes’ that first turned my thoughts to Iceland, and in 1912 I made a first trip to a country that has never ceased to cast its spell upon me. That journey consisted of nothing more than a fortnight’s ride through the ordinary tourist district of the §.W., with an ascent of Mount Hekla, but it was enough to create a strong desire to see more, and in 1925, and again in 1927, I returned to make more extended tours through the interior.! It should be remembered that Iceland is the second largest island in Europe, being about 7000 square miles larger than Ireland. Even this comparison hardly suggests its true size so far as the traveller is concerned, for the means of communi- cation remain to this day almost as they were a thousand years ago. There is still no railway in the country, and only a few roads which are confined almost entirely to the immediate vicinity of Reykjavik and certain other ports. Whoever wishes to penetrate far inland must do so on pony-back, and carry tents and provisions with him. Only in this way will he be able to reach, or even to see, the almost inexhaustible supply of striking peaks, glaciers, lava streams, moors, deserts, boiling springs and great waterfalls. By comparison with the Alps, the mountains are not high. But such a comparison is hardly fair, since many of the Ice- landic peaks rise directly out of the sea. Oraefajokull is no mean mountain. Its icy dome stands 6400 ft. above the ocean that washes its base. It is the highest point of the largest glacier system in Kurope—about 8000 square miles in area. The panorama of the glacier mountains of the S., as viewed from the sea, is on a clear day exceedingly fine. Even Hender- son who visited the country more than a hundred years ago found it beautiful, though he apologised for his opinion. ‘ When the tediousness of the voyage is taken into consideration,’ he wrote, ‘an allowance will easily be made for my attaching the idea of beauty to these perennial masses of snow, notwith- standing the revolting presentiment of cold which necessarily 1 In 1925 and 1927 my wife was my travelling companion.

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86 Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. forced itself into my mind.’ Henderson’s book on Iceland remains to this day one of the best ever written. He was a born traveller and a keen observer, but naturally—considering the date at which he lived—not a mountaineer. He tells us that on one occasion he could not look down into the ‘ dreadful abyss’ without beig ‘sensible of the most disagreeable emotions,’ and that he ‘ felt a desire to remove as quickly as possible to a safer and more agreeable scene.’ Some travellers have spoken almost contemptuously of the Icelandic mountains. The great ‘ jékulls’ have been dubbed squat tablelands of ice, Hekla and other isolated volcanoes mere ash-heaps. They have been accused of showing little beauty of form and less of colour. This criticism seems to me to be the result of a first impression, which is reversed by a more intimate acquaintance. It is a mistake to judge them by the standard of other mountain systems better known to us. They have, owing to their volcanic origin, a strongly marked individuality and character of their own. The rocky pyramid of Maelifellsnokr in the N. is a thing of beauty from whatever direction it is seen. In the W., the symmetrical cone of Snaefellsjékull rises to a height of 4700 ft. from the ocean that surrounds it on three sides. The sun, setting behind this peak, as seen across the Faxafjord from Reykjavik eighty miles away, makes a picture not easily forgotten. The huge dome of Kyrik’s Jékull in the interior of the country forms as perfect a skyline as any mountain I have seen. These are all noble mountains, and there are others to equal them, while the supply of smaller peaks, hills perhaps in height but true mountains in formation, is inexhaustible. The following is a brief sketch of the three trips it has been my good fortune to make in Iceland. In 1912 we rode from Reykjavik across the moor to the historic valley—if indeed a sunken plain may be called a valley —of Thingvellir, the *‘ Parliament Plain’; thence, next day, to the Geysirs, which if they are not quite so big as some of the old pictures suggest, are in fact more impressive than those pictures lead one to expect. A couple of hours’ ride beyond the Geysirs thunders the great waterfall of Gullfoss, ‘ Golden- force,’ for Hvit& is a glacier river, and its waters are bright brown in colour. Gullfoss is one of the sights of Europe. In breadth, volume, and situation it surpasses any fall I know. An ascent of Mount Hekla was then undertaken. From the farm at which we passed the night the return expedition took twelve hours. We rode to within two and a half hours of the

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Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. 87 summit and then walked. There is no climbing difficulty whatever, but the ascent is well worth making, and the view from the highest point most impressive. It is quite un-alpine in character, as indeed are most Icelandic panoramas. ‘ Solemn ’ is perhaps the best word to express the feeling it produced. After Hekla we paid a visit to Thorsmork in the Markarfljot valley. This valley contains very striking mountain scenery. There are a number of fine gorges, and icefalls from the glaciers of Kyjafjalla reach down very nearly to the valley floor along which rushes a formidable glacier river. This river divides into many streams which frequently change their beds. Fording is sometimes difficult, but must be constantly under- taken. A local guide is essential. The way these men can read, from the surface of the water, the nature of the ground below, is wonderful. Their eye can detect, it seems, even a submerged quicksand. When crossing one stream we could hear boulders being swept along beneath the murky water, and hoped they would miss our ponies’ legs. The return journey from the mouth of the Markarfljot valley to Reykjavik took three days in the saddle, but as there is a road it can now be quickly covered in a car if desired. In 1925 a rather more extensive trip was undertaken. As far as the Geysirs the old route was followed. Immediately N. of these there lies a large mountain district culminating in the enormous Lang Jokull. Leaving Austurlid farm, near the Geysirs, we were among the mountains surrounding the Uthdhraun in about an hour. These hills are barren and precipitous, striking in form and colour. The volcanic rocks of which they consist are of a reddish-purple colour, and they are well set off by a foreground of grey-brown lava. On this day’s ride there was no track of any kind, for though the route passes through magnificent scenery, it is but seldom followed. To miss the way would be easy should fog come on, and in that case the chief difficulty would be, not so much to find a way out as to find it before the ponies had broken down for want of grass and water. As our guide had never been this way before, we took a local man from the farm to lead us as far as the Hellisskard (‘Cave Pass’), which was reached in three hours. The approach to the pass was steep, and we scrambled up the last few hundred feet on foot, the ponies—tied to each other, the head of one to the tail of the next in front—climbing up like cats in a truly astonishing manner. The pass leads to entirely new country—a vast stream of contorted lava, quite barren. The winter frosts

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88 Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. have so shattered the rock, that the surface now consists of splintered blocks of jagged lava varying in size from pebbles to large boulders. Out of this elevated plain of lava rise a number of peaks—the Skridutindar, ‘slipping mountains,’ whose name tells of the rottenness of their rocks, the Hégnhofdi, the conical Skialdbreid, and, close at hand, the mighty Hlodu- fell. This last is a really fine mountain. Its summit consists of a small, flattish glacier, guarded on all sides by splendid rock precipices. At its base, to the S.W., is an excellent camping site with water and plenty of good grass. I inquired as to the possibility of climbing the peak, but was told the mountain was unsuitable for climbing as it was ‘too perpendicular’ ! Most unfortunately, time did not allow us to make the attempt. It appears to offer an interesting climbing problem, and from its position it must be a wonderful view-point. We rode for twelve hours that day over the wildest, ruggedest country imaginable. But it was never monotonous. Far from it, for when we had passed the lava flood, there followed some river-flats where fast galloping was possible; then a number of rocky ridges, rather like moraines, were crossed ; after that we seemed to be riding down broken cliffs that were nearly vertical. At long last we rode, or rather we slithered down a snow slope and reached the oasis known as EKgil’s-a- fangi, only to find that our camping-ground was, owing to the recent rains, a foot under water. Some of us tried to keep the ponies from scattering whilst the others went off in search of a dry patch of ground, which was found in about half an hour, and soon the tents were pitched. Next day we crossed the Kaldidalur (‘Cold Valley’), a long, bleak, wind-swept pass some 2000 ft. high. The mountain scenery here is very fine. On either side, and close at hand, are glaciers. On the right (E.) descend many ice-falls from Geitlands Joékull; to the left rises the crevassed dome of Ok Jokull. This route is delightful in good weather and at the height of summer. Early or late in the season, however, it may be dangerous, as the following account will show. Nearly a hundred years ago, an old and very experienced shepherd passed this way with a boy and several ponies. It was late in the summer and bad weather presently set in. A blizzard swept the pass. ‘The boy was ill-clad and soon became numb with the cold. When it became evident that he was on the point of collapsing, the shepherd did a desperate thing. With his knife he killed one of the ponies, and when he had dis-

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Phot. A. Murray. Lar le" (a ; + 2 ee ; , > . an an ’ > Se F : - S see Soe a Ras, J 13 | ( ge. Se oe ie. oe eo Bee : oe - "tdi ; 2 oe . > Re "< eS) . oe Ts Tet’ ae 6 oe =~. US er a = ee . — ‘Natis - . ; ae, Pe a . ~ a = ms THE SKRIDUTINDAR.

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Digitized by Google Phot. A. Murray. NEAR THORSMARK.

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Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. 89 embowelled the beast, he put the boy inside as in a bed. Throughout the night the old man paced up and down with the other ponies. In the morning the storm died down, the rising sun warmed up the pass and the lad’s life was saved. Such grim resourcefulness amounting almost to inspiration seems worthy of being recorded. After the Kaldidalur expedition we left the mountains till we reached the Hitardalur, which lies at the eastern end of the Snaefell peninsula. This valley is strikingly wild, and a very rough and cavernous stream of lava has to be crossed. The peaks are not great in height, but they have the appearance and character of true mountains, and are not mere hills. A couple of days were spent in camp at Hitarvatn, which is as lovely a lake as the Italian Alps can show. In fine weather it is gentian blue in colour, and it is full of trout which may be caught for the asking. There followed an exciting journey to the head of the Hvamsfjord. The mountains in this district recall somewhat those of our own Snowdonia, but they are bigger, and sterner in aspect, and the valleys are like deep narrow gorges. There is very little track that the eye of a foreigner can detect. Indeed, I believe this route is hardly ever taken by travellers. It is only visited by the shepherds who come up every autumn to collect sheep that have spent the summer months in the mountains. On this day a valuable trout rod fell accidentally from a pack pony and was lost. We searched for it for some time, but might as easily have found a needle in a haystack - as retrieve 80 small and inconspicuous an object in such country. All the same our guide was confident that it would be found. He promised to ask the shepherds to look for it at the sheep- gathering in the autumn. We were not hopeful, especially as the nearest farm was a full half-day’s ride away. Yet the rod was returned to me the following November, having been found by a farm boy. Shepherds whose eyes can detect a straying sheep or pony far up in the mountains will not easily overlook any object, however small, that they are looking for. And their honesty equals their eyesight. From Hvamsfjord we turned 6., first crossing the Bratta- brekka (‘steep slope’) pass and then skirting the western shoulder of Mt. Baula. Baula is a conical peak of red rock, 8000 ft. high, and has never yet, so I was told, been climbed from the W., its steepest side. Unfortunately time did not allow us to attempt it. S. of Mt. Baula the country becomes hilly rather than

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90 Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. mountainous, but is always interesting. In fact the journey round the head of the Hvalfjord is most beautiful, and the basalt cliffs of Mt. Thyrill very tempting. S. of Hvalfjord lies another mountain district comprising the Sandfell peak, Mt. Ksja, and the steep and wild Svinaskard pass which we crossed on our way back to Reykjavik. The summer of 1927 saw us back again in Iceland. The weather that season will long be remembered as the finest and driest for twenty years. There was only one thoroughly wet day during the six weeks in which we rode across the whole country from S$. to N., and back again to the S. across the central desert. Of course there were heavy rainstorms at times, but these must be expected in Iceland, as in other mountainous countries. Leaving Reykjavik at the end of June, we rode N. over country that has already been described till we reached Reyk- holt, the home of the poet-historian-statesman Snorri Sturluson. The boiling springs in this valley are both numerous and interesting. One of them, named Arhver, squirts continually a small jet of scalding water from a mound in the middle of the river. Another feeds the large open-air hot bath, built by Snorri hundreds of years ago, and supplies steam for modern radiators to the old earth-built parsonage, which, unfortunately, is soon to be demolished and replaced by a house of reinforced concrete. From Reykhott we rode to the comfortable farm of Husafell, and then forded the turbulent Geit&é whose swollen waters had barred our way two years before. Soon we reached the wide flood of ancient lava in which are the caves of Surts- - Hellir. These caves have been formed by gigantic bubbles of gas generated in the lava at the time when it was beginning to cool down. They are certainly worth a visit. The entire surface of the lava is to-day covered by dead moss, ash-grey in colour, and there are miles and miles of it. This moss is slowly collecting enough dust to support a few alpine flowers, and already some flourish in the hollows formed by gas bubbles whose roof has fallen in. But at present the landscape is that of a country burnt up. <A few miles to the E., however, rises one of the grandest mountains in Iceland, the glacier-capped HKyrik’s Jokull. It 1s a really noble mountain. The curve of its dome of ice is a perfect thing, and from the glacier that covers it great icefalls descend on all sides over its precipitous cliffs. This was one of those days that remain fixed in the memory. There was perfect stillness and utter desolation out of which

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Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. 91 stood Hyrik’s Joékull, the sky (I quote the late Lord Bryce) ‘raining down brightness’ on to the desert floor. ‘ And the silence, what was ever like it? A silence, not as of death, but as of a time before life was.’ ? After fording the deep but not very difficult Nordlingafijot which flows at the edge of the lava field, we pitched camp on a pleasant grassy meadow where our only visitors were a few wild swans and geese, and next day rode in a N.K. direction to Arnavatn, the large lake associated in the Saga with the name of Grettir the Strong, who fled here for safety nine hundred years ago. Our track was stony and barren, but every now and then we passed a sheltered spot where there was grass thickly covered by wild flowers, mostly purple geranium. The ground rose steadily and the ice-fields of the Lang and Eyrik’s Jékulls slowly receded. We were now in the district known as Fiskivoétn (fish lakes), an elevated tract of country honeycombed with lakes of all sizes. The smallest are mere tarns while the largest measure several miles across. All, or nearly all, are as full of trout as they can be, and on their surface live wild swans, geese and other birds. The number of these lakes is said by the people to be uncountable. Camp was pitched at the head of a water-fall that connects an upper lake with the larger Arnavatn some 60 ft. below. It was as lovely a spot as the heart of man could desire. Spaciousness was its keynote, spaciousness and wildness and entire absence of anything artificial. On one side shone the glaciers of Lang Jékull, on the other lay the great lake and the moor. Reference has already been made to an old shepherd who saved a lad’s life in rather an unconventional way in Kaldidalur. The same man passed this way, and on one occasion had a gruesome experience. Summer was nearly over and it would have been safer to take the longer ‘ post-road.’ But the shepherd knew his country so well that he was justified in risking the direct cross-country route. He travelled on foot, and alone save for his dog. Night had fallen when he reached the small earthen hut at Arnavatn, and it was very cold. As he had no candle he began to eat his supper in the dark, but the dog refused to join him. Nothing would persuade the animal to remain in the hut, so his master investigated, and presently found a corpse frozen stiff on the couch at the farther end. On reporting the matter at the first farm he reached, he 2 Memories of Travel.

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92 Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. was asked if he had not been afraid to spend the night with such company. ‘At first I was afraid,’ he replied, ‘for I thought that as soon as I slept he might come over to me. So I pulled him across the room and used him as a pillow. Then I feared no longer, for I had him safe under me.’ Of the ride from the lake Arnavatn to the Vatnsdal (‘ lake valley ’) I will only say that it took ten hours, riding as fast as the nature of the country permitted. The distance 1s forty miles, but we added to this by missing our way soon after starting. From the highest point of the ‘ Heithi,’ which is a great wilderness of stones and bogs and hills, we could see the purple mountains that guard the entrance to the Vatnsdal. Yet, though we rode fast, and hour succeeded hour, they seemed to get no nearer. We had a feeling as of riding in a treadmill. A few birds circled round. Once, an Icelandic falcon flopped off a neighbouring rock after eyeing us with some suspicion. There was no wind, and the air was filled with soft sunshine and a silence that was almost uncanny. But when at last we reached the head of the valley we were once more in truly mountainous country. The scenery was very grand, and the only remaining difficulty was the crossing of a number of small but really bad bogs. Bogs terrify the ponies, and some of our animals—including the one I was riding—went in up to the middle. In the end, after much wandering around in search of terra firma we got through, and reached the farm of Hawkagil. In the Vatnsdal is a tract of ground several miles long and over a mile in breadth, which descends from the hills into the valley floor and 1s said to be an ancient moraine. It is, how- ever, thickly covered by large sugar-loaf cones, some of them almost as big as small hills. They are not unlike the slag- heaps of our own Black Country, but are of a warmer colour. I was unable to discover exactly how this interesting formation came into being. I have never seen anything else like it, and it remains, as far as [ am concerned, an unsolved puzzle. We reached the N. coast at the port of Blénduos, and rode thence across the mountains to Saudarkrokur. The peaks here are rather like the Welsh hills, but they are on a bigger scale. The route crosses two distinct mountain systems, and two unbridged rivers, which must sometimes be formidable, have to be forded. From Saudarkrokur a day’s ride brought us to Holar, a most interesting spot rich in historical associations, it having been the old episcopal see of northern Iceland and a famous

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Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. 98 home of learning. To-day its cathedral, a small, plain, but not undignified building of red stone, contains some splendid relics of pre-Reformation days. But Holar has other attractions. It stands in a noble situation on a level green meadow of rich pasture land sur- rounded on all sides but one by steep mountains. It is a true gateway to the hills, and from it radiate a number of valleys that all invite exploration. From Holar we journeyed to the Eyjafjord over the high mountain pass known as Heljardalsheithi (‘ Hell’s valley high- ground ’), which is a really fine expedition. A local man was hired at Holar to show us the ford through the rapid Kolké. After crossing this big river we turned into the Heljardal. Unfortunately a recent flood had swept away the bridge over the unfordable Heljaré which rushes down the cajion, so we had to keep on the N. side of the torrent and get our ponies up as best we could. There was no track on this side of the valley, and at first the ground was much too steep and rough to ride up, but presently we got into the saddle and rode over some of the most sensational steps it has been my lot to meet on horseback. My admiration for the skill, strength and willingness of the Iceland pony became greater than ever. On this day we rode sometimes on * knife-edge ’ ridges, at other times on a narrow ledge at the very edge of a precipice. Yet the ponies never hesitated. Presently we crossed a number of snow patches and snow-filled gullies, and as we neared the summit of the pass the slope became less steep. We then rode on to a wide field of névé into which the ponies sank knee-deep. The pack ponies and the spare ones made straight for any rocks that stood up through the snow, only to find the snow near the rocks cavernous, so that they plunged about in it up to their bellies. For our part, we dismounted and led our ponies. The actual summit (the height of which is given in an old guide-book as 4500 ft.) is a large and nearly level snowfield. A fine rain swept across the pass so that much of the view was hidden. It must be very grand in clear weather. On each side rises the icy dome ofa jékull. The top of the Unadalsjékull to the N. was just visible, and looked but a short distance above us. The descent was rough and rather steep, but there was no difficulty until we reached the floor of the valley. We then found that the bridge over the Skall& had been carried away, and we had a little more excitement in fording the river than we thought necessary. That night we stayed at Urdir

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94 Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. farmhouse. From this place to Akureyri, the northern capital, need not be described here, for it is hardly a mountain journey. But the way along the shore of the Kyjafjord is as lovely a ride as can well be imagined. After a few days’ rest at Akureyri, a short trip was taken to the E. From Akureyri to Hals is a beautiful ride. You start at sea-level and follow a straight track that rises by a comfortable gradient to a height of 2300 ft. And you have the whole forty miles of blue Eyjafjord in front of you all the time. When we were there, there was neither cloud nor haze, so that the fjord and its coasts lay below us as on a map. From Hals to the waterfall of Godafoss is only two or three hours’ ride. The fall is not gigantic like Gullfoss its rival in the §., or Dettifoss its neighbour to the E.; but its breadth, its semi-circular shape and the convenient rocks from which it can be viewed, make it one of the finest falls in existence. We had intended to visit the big Myvatn (‘ Midge Lake ’) famous for its wild birds, and had hoped to see something of the voleanic district in which it lies, but we had to give this up —or at least postpone it—as our time was running short. On the return journey to Reykjavik we followed what is known as the Kjél route across the central desert. Leaving the Eyjafjord we turned up the Horgardalur, and some hours later branched off into the Oxnadalur, reaching Bakki farmhouse in the evening. All day long the scenery had become more and more mountainous as we proceeded. There are a number of really striking peaks in the Oxnadalur, or rather in the range that divides it from the Hérgardalur, notably one that closely resembles the Aiguille de la Za as seen from Arolla. The next day’s journey was rather a long one over the pass of Oxnadalsheithi. Here again the mountain scenery was very grand, the river Heidera tearing through a deep-cut canon. Unfortunately, clouds covered the tops of the high peaks. Heavy rain fell during the last two hours of the journey and a strong wind drove it in our faces and soon discovered any weak spots in our oil-skin suits. It was 9.80 p.. when we reached the farm of Silfrastadir where the houschold were all in bed and asleep. For although ‘ telephone time’ 18 official in Iceland, nearly every farmer in the country advances his clock by one or two hours during the summer months because he finds it suits his work. So it was 11.80 p.m. by the Silfrastadir clock when we got there. All the same, a boy rolled out of bed at once and led our ponies off to grass through the drenching rain, while the lady of the house prepared us

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¢ 4 of eee di of Seg 5 ee SE Eig a eae lal i f 3 ear. i Lae é i CES ae pry y Phot. A. Murray, GODAFOSS.

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-o = ; een _- - ~ im . “ME ene A Phot. A. Murray. Mt. THYRILL.

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Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. 95 coffee and ‘skyr.’ Now to be kept waiting when you are tired, rather wet and very hungry, is not pleasant. But in Iceland where time is of so little account, and no one ever seems to hurry, the traveller who arrives unexpectedly at a country farmhouse must be prepared to be very patient. Coffee cannot be served instantly, for there is no hot water laid on—or cold water either for that matter. Nor is the fire kept burning. The only fuel consists, as a rule, of cakes of dried sheep’s dung, very much like peat. When this has been lighted and coaxed into a fire, water must be fetched—often from quite a distance—and boiled on it. The hospitality of these good people is truly wonderful, and the almost unvarying cheerfulness with which they put them- selves out to do all they can for the passing traveller is an ample compensation for the small discomforts that are bound to be met with now and again. Next day we rode down the valley and crossed the Hérads- vétn by the ferry. It takes a full hour and a half to get the whole cavalcade over these rivers by the ferry. There is so much unloading and loading up again of pack-boxes, and so much trouble in inducing the ponies to get into the boat, as well as several journeys backwards and forwards. Beyond the river are the wide marshes of Vidimyri, and after that, a bridle track over the Vatnskard. On the farther side of this pass there was as uncomfortable a step to negotiate as I ever remember meeting. In rounding a bluff that over- hung the swiftly rushing Svart4 river we found our already diminutive path entirely washed away. Nothing remained but hard smooth, slippery clay inclined at an angle that was much too steep to be pleasant. So we dismounted, and with unnailed boots and no handholds to help us, clambered gingerly round. All except our second guide who, trusting his pony more than himself, rushed at it and came safely round with a scraping of hoofs and a loud laugh. Before us flowed the great Blanda river, quite unfordable here. There is, however, a cable ferry which we used. That night we stayed at Gudlaugstadir farm. It was the last house - were to see till we reached the 8. of the country five days ater. S. of Gudlaugstadir the country is very wild. There are but few landmarks to guide the stranger, while there are some very large bogs to worry him. So we engaged the farmer to guide us past these. With him as local guide we travelled fast, and soon realized how much time must necessarily be lost

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96 Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. by a general guide who has to use his brains to find his way over unfamiliar country. At the end of three and a half hours’ riding the farmer returned to his home, and then our troubles began. Even the ponies seemed to know that they might now wander out of the way (in different directions at the same time) and that now they could break their girths and shed their packs with impunity. The guides were much too busy discussing the way to pay much attention to anything else. There was, of course, no track at all, and the only thing we had to guide us, beyond a general sense of direction, was the Blanda river which was somewhere—out of sight—to the E. Our guide led us cleverly, though a trifle circuitously. Once he went off to prospect, leaving us with the curt command: ‘Stay here till I return.’ We waited on marshy ground while the wind got up and for a time blew a fine rain at us. At the end of a damp and dismal hour our leader returned, merely remarking: ‘ Now, follow me.’ He had found the Blanda and was happy again. He now led us over wild moorland where the ground consisted of innumerable hummocks divided from each other by deep water-cut ditches. The ponies leapt from hummock to hummock. We found it rather a slow and fatiguing method of progress, but at 7.45 p.m. the desired camping ground was reached. Next morning at sunrise a thin white mist covered the ground. Above it, to the N.E., rose the pyramid of Maelifell- snokr looking very much like the Weisshorn—though really it 18, of course, much smaller. The air was perfectly still, and the rising sun filled the whole sky with primrose light. When we got on our way, its warmth drew aromatic scents from the brushwood of the moor. Except for birds—swans, geese and others—there was no sign of life. It was a strange, solemn, silent world in which we seemed intruders. Suddenly our guide gave a shout of satisfaction; he had seen a cairn and knew exactly where he was. He had struck the Kjol-route just where he meant to. I should lke to say a word in appreciation of my guide, Mr. Ogmundur Sigurdsson, of Hafnarfjérd. Probably no man has travelled in Iceland as much as he has, and he has all the qualifications of a first-rate guide, being as prudent as he is enterprising. Besides all this he 1s a most interesting and learned man, and a good linguist. As we rode the landscape changed in character. Vegetation became scanty and then ceased altogether. We were in a brown, burnt-up desert on to which the sun poured a flood of

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Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. 97 brightness. Round us rose small but striking mountains. At 7 p.m. we reached Hveravellir—the plain of hot springs—and pitched camp. The sense of utter isolation here is most impressive, and to my mind, stimulating. The place is a small oasis in the strip of desert land between Lang Jékull and Hofs Jékull, and it takes its name from the large group of boiling springs that roar and squirt unceasingly. A stream descends from the springs, and the mineral deposit from the hot water has lined the bed of the stream with a smooth hard surface like marble. We soon found a pool that was cool enough to get into, and had an ideal hot bath. That evening the sunset was as wonderful as any I have seen. A mackerel sky that glowed first amber, then orange, salmon, crimson, purple and violet. Owing to the fact that the sun scarcely sets at this latitude in summer, we had a crimson after- glow on the glaciers of Hofs Jékull that lasted, not a few minutes, but for several hours. We took a day of rest at this interesting spot, and spent it in washing clothes, writing up journals, and scrambling about the rocks. Next day we crossed the Kjél lava. It was terribly desolate but most interesting. The actual lava stream took nearly two hours to cross, the ponies picking their way in a wonderful manner over its jagged surface. On its farther side, the rivers were all flowing 8., for we had crossed the water-shed, and were once again in southern Iceland. That evening we camped as near the shore of Hvitarvatn as the boggy nature of the ground would allow. Hvitarvatn (the white lake) is a fine sheet of water, about eight miles in length, and perhaps three miles in width. It lies immediately to the E. of Lang Joékull, which sends down two huge ice-falls into its waters. The séracs are large, and stand, as near as it was possible from our camp to guess, about 50 ft. out of the water. We could hear the roar of ice avalanches, and many icebergs floated about the lake. Hundreds of wild swans greeted us excitedly as we approached the shore. Next day we had a fairly long ride round the base of Bléfell, an isolated glacier-capped mountain, to a camp by the Griota river. From this camp it was a day’s journey to Austurlid farm. The weather had been very hot for the last two days, and violent rainstorms had circled round us, but had left us dry. The most vivid and brilliant rainbows had appeared with startling suddenness, and a big dust storm had raged near Lang Jékull to the N. The columns of dust that were sucked VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. H

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98 Some Journeys through the Mountains of Iceland. up into the sky after the manner of water-spouts must have been at least several thousand feet high. Although we were but three or four miles from the storm, there was not a breath of wind on the stony waste over which we rode. Presently we exchanged the desert for pasture land and halted for food outside a small farm—the first human habitation we had seen for five days. Soon, however, distant thunder spurred us on. The thunder grew louder, some of the ponies became nervous, and we rode fast. As we reached the Geysirs the storm broke and soon it was raining in true Icelandic fashion. There was no shelter, for the old inn had been removed years before, and the new one was not finished, so we reached our night quarters a trifle bedraggled. The rest of the journey was not strictly mountainous, though it skirted a number of quite good peaks. It included the lovely Thingvellir lake and the Sog river with its three glorious falls within about a quarter of a mile of each other. There is one drawback to the Sog and its neighbourhood. It is the worst place in the country for flies. On a bright, windless day of summer the sky is black with them. The ponies must be housed in a barn ; if left in the open for more than a moment, they will bolt. As we rode away, we could hardly hold the poor beasts in, and yet in a quarter of an hour we were clear of the midge-infected area, so local is the nuisance. I should add that although the midges at the Sog were numbered by millions, we were by no means eaten up. Indeed I have often been far more bitten in the Alps than I have ever been in Iceland. If I am asked how Iceland strikes the mountaineer, I find it a little difficult to give an accurate answer, since mountaineers are of many kinds. I do not wish to exaggerate the attraction of a country simply because I happen to love it myself. The mountains are not only smaller than the Alps, but are quite different in character and appearance. Many of them are very fine. Still, the man with a short holiday, who wishes, not unnaturally, to get in as many peaks as the limited time at his disposal will allow, will probably be wise to avoid Iceland. For Iceland is not a country of ready-made climbs. No funicular helps the climber on his way, and often no track exists to lead him to his mountain. This last point means a good deal. It is possible that some of us hardly realize the immense saving of time and labour that is implied by even a rudimentary track. Such a simple walk as that from Zermatt to the Riffel Alp would be quite an undertaking were there no

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‘ Mystery Mountain.’ 99 path at all. Such pathless conditions are common in the more remote districts of Iceland. So it often takes a long time to reach any particular mountain. Then the weather is subject to very sudden changes, and the method of travelling, though delightful, is slow. Accommodation at the farm-houses is quite clean though often rather rough. But the man who can spare a little more time, who loves all mountains for their own sake, who can be content even though his list of summits gained is short, so long as he himself is constantly moving among the mountains, who can enjoy the rather rough-and-tumble, open-air life that is forced upon him—this man will find in Iceland, with its primitive life and its unspoilt countryside, a land that will draw him back again and again. Nor will he get only mountain climbing. There is the joy of riding and fishing, the interest of the abundant bird-life, the scenes of historic sagas, and of course the extraordinary geology of the land. It is said that two things are generally necessary to a success- ful trip in Iceland: good weather and a good guide. I have always had the latter and quite often the former. There is, however, a third necessity with which fortune has also favoured me—the ideal companion. ‘Mystery MountaQn.’ By W. A. DON MUNDAY. . STERY MOUNTAIN ’? has been officially named Mt. George Dawson by the Geographic Board of Canada to commemorate the eminent Canadian geologist whose name is borne by Mt. Dawson, which is also in British Columbia in the Selkirk Range. The newly named mountain in the Coast Range is, according to Mr. J. E. Umbach, the surveyor-general of British Columbia, the highest mountain in the province, its height being 18,260 ft. It has not yet been completely conquered, the writer’s party in 1927 having reached over 18,000 ft. on the third attempt, but being defeated by a violent storm. A bivouac at 8700 ft. was rendered untenable by the storm, so the descent was continued 1 See A.J. 88, 343, and ‘Canadian Notes’ of present number. We are in no way concerned in the matter, but the change of name seems regrettable.— Editor.

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100 ‘Mystery Mountain.’ to the base camp at 4200 ft.; we reached it 39 hours after beginning the climb from the bivouac. ‘The other members of the party were Mrs. Munday and her sister, Mrs. E. M. McCallum. The mountain stands 25 miles N.E. of the head of Knight Inlet, and its largest glacier extends to within 6 miles of tide- water and 500 ft. above sea-level. Its area is about 100 square miles. We cut a trail 6 miles up the Franklin valley and ‘ back- packed’ all our own supplies. This route was considered highly preferable to the 1926 route up the Homathko River, and will be used again for the 1928 attempt on the big mountain. It 1s our intention to place a climbing camp at 10,500 ft. on the mountain because of the length and difficulties of the summit ridge. The personnel of the party has not been decided but will include the writer and Mrs. Munday. ‘The latter suggested the route which proved so nearly successful and which seems the only practicable one in view of the physical difficulties of the surroundings of the mountain. From Chilko Lake for a hundred miles N.W. the Coast Range has something approaching a definite crest with scores of peaks over 10,000 ft. in height; many are over 11,000 ft. (two have been triangulated at over 11,700 ft.) ; several probably exceed 12,000 ft., while the highest has been triangu- lated at 18,260 ft. as already stated. The Bella Coola, Klinakline and Homathko gorges are incised completely across the range where it attains its maximum elevations ; 80 miles from its mouth the Homathko River is only 500 ft. above sea-level. Even the Fraser River canon 1s flanked by no such uphfts as these. The main river valleys have been explored long ago, but the areas between are so rugged and so defended by large glaciers that exploration will probably be left entirely to mountaineers as has been the case up to the present. The consistently rugged glaciers are apt to make strangers to the region seriously under- estimate the time required to cover a comparatively insignificant mileage. In spite of the tremendous snowfall in the Coast Range, the climate of the seaward slope is comparatively mild and the vegetation 1s very dense. Iixcept in the matter of winter temperatures, conditions thus bear a considerable resemblance to those in the Selkirk Range. The scenery also more nearly approaches that of the Selkirk Range, with the difference, of course, of more extensive glaciers.

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Note on Mt. Olympus. 101 [Mr. Munday writes :— ‘I venture to enclose a brief reference to ‘‘ Mystery Mountain,” in which you showed some interest last year. As you will note, we failed to reach the top by about 200 ft., due entirely to the most violent electrical storm I have ever experienced. We were within that short distance of the North peak at 7 P.M. We still think we showed good judgment in retreating as we did. ‘The next “ Canadian Alpine Journal ”’ will carry fairly full accounts of our two expeditions into this rather remarkable region—I say “‘ our’ and ‘‘ we ” because my wife is even more than my lieutenant in every phase of the task. ‘The mountain is now recognized as the highest in British Columbia, 18,260 ft. We have waited two years almost for vindication of our claim of 1ts pre-eminence, most local climbers having been openly scornful. It is a strange thing, indeed, that this nearness to the mountain should produce such unbelief when those far off were more readily convinced.’] 2e-l’ ——-—_._ + ,n oe . ° Note on Mt. Otympus. *” *- (I) dh the list of books and articles on Mt. Olympus, which is to be found on page 96 of ‘A.J.’ 39, the following may be added : | Francis P. Farquhar: ‘An Ascent of Mount Olympus, Thessaly, Greece,’ in the Sierra Bulletin, vol. ix. No. 4, January 1915. Francis P. Farquhar: ‘An Ascent of Mount Olympus in Thessaly, Greece,’ in The Mountaineer, vol. xiv., 1921. The above two articles give an account of the author’s ascent to Skolion with A. E. Phoutrides in April 1914. G. R. is the signature of an account of the celebration of Mass, according to the Roman Catholic form, on the summit of St. Elias in 1918. This account appears in L’Illustration, Paris, No. 8957, January 4, 1919. Winona Bailey (‘ Kight Days on Mount Olympus in Thessaly,’ in The Mountaineer, vol. xv., 1922) describes her ascent with Mrs. Laurie Frazeur on August 4, 1922. On July 81 they had reached the lower summit of Stefan, where they built the caim ; but they were unable to reach its higher summit. On both occasions the ladies were accompanicd by Kristo Kakalos.

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102 Note on Mt. Olympus. (The Mountaineer is the journal of The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, U.S.A.) Richard Halliburton: ‘The Glorious Adventure.’ With Roderic Crane and a shepherd lad, whom they called ‘ Lazarus,’ he ascended Mitka (wrongly called by him the Throne of Zeus), apparently by way of Skala. They were not skilled moun- taineers, and were detained on the summit by mist till nightfall. A miserable night was passed under the lee of the cairn, a heavy thunder-storm adding to their discomfort. ‘The weather cleared before midnight, and the morning was brilliantly clear. This ascent seems to have taken place in the early summer of 1925. Damel Baud-Bovy, in ‘Le Haut Olympe’ (L’Illustratin, Paris, No. 4417, October 29, 1927), describes the ascents made by himself, with F’. Boissonnas and others, in 1918, 1919, and 1927. (II) The following is a complete list of the ascents of Mitka and Stefan, so far as they can at present be ascertained : A. Ascents ae Mitka. : os ne 2,1918. D. Baud-Bovy F’. Boissonnas Seater stele Kristo Kakalos ae ‘Faly a1, 1919. D. Baud-Bovy F’. Boissonnas H. Boissonnas 8. July 20, 1920. Giorgio Kostandakos ! 4, Aug. 12,1921. M. Kurz Kristo Kakalos 5. Aug. 16, 1921. F. K. Kuhn ? Kristo Kakalos 6. Aug. 4, 1922. Miss Winona Bailey Mrs. Laurie Frazeur Kristo Kakalos 1 1928. Helmut Scheffel § 1 M. Kurz writes: ‘I found the name of Kostandakos on a loose slab of the highest peak. This man seems to have been alone, probably some shepherd or hunter. He was unknown to Kakalos.’ 2 A Russian Officer. 8 There is some doubt about this ascent. The account in the Mitteilungen des Deutschen Arch. Inst. Ath. Abteilung, Band xxxxvii., is as follows: ‘Bei unserer Besteigung desOlympin Sommer 1923 suchten wir. . . . Auf der héchsten Spitze haben wir keine Spuren einer anti- ken Kultstiatte gefunden, wohl aber auf einem der Vorberge, der etwa eine Stunde siidlich vom Hauptgipfel sich erhebt und ausweislich

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Note on Mt. Olympus. 103 A. Ascents of Mitka (continued). 8. 1925. Roderic Crane Richard Halliburton * Lazarus ’ 9. 1925. St. Kotsios 4 10. Sept. 8, 1926. L. A. Ellwood W. T. Elmslie C. M. Sleeman | A. E. Storr 11. Sept. 12, 1927. D. Baud-Bovy F. Boissonnas W. J. Ellison Twenty-two others B. Ascents of Stefan. 1. Aug. 12,1921. M. Kurz Kristo Kakalos 2. Aug. 16, 1921. F. K. Kuhn with Kristo Kakalos 8. Sept. 8, 1926. L.A. Ellwood W. T. Elmslie C. M. Sleeman A. E. Storr 4, Sept. 11,1927. D. Baud-Bovy F. Boissonnas Capt. Demesticas A few others W. T. Evmsttie. C. M. SLEEMAN, unseres Héhenmessers etwa 2900 m. hoch ist, vom Hauptgipfel also nur ungeféhr um 100 m. iiberragt wird. Hier glaubten wir Altar- reste zu erkennen und lasen zwischen den Steinen des Gipfels einige hundert Scherben auf... .’ E. Richter, however, writes as follows: *T asked Helmut Scheffel at that time by letter for particulars about his ascent but could not get any detailed information. He has not been on Mitka or Stefan, but on a “ Nebengipfel etwa 1 Stunde stidlich vom Hauptgipfel.” I think it must have been Sara. He intended at that time to visit the highest point on a later occasion.’ : * This name is inscribed on a rock at the summit. No particulars are to hand.

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104 Olympus: An International Expedition. Otympus: AN INTERNATIONAL EXPEDITION. By W. J. ELLISON. dao persons left Marseilles in September last on board the Patris IZ, under the auspices of the French and Swiss Alpine Clubs, to climb Mt. Olympus. At the head of the party was M. Fred Boissonnas, who with Daniel Baud- Bovy first reached the summit in 1918. It imcluded Baud-Bovy, his son, and a group of girl guides (whose agility won them the sobriquet of the ‘ gazelles ’) from Geneva, Dr. Etienne May of the G.H.M. of the C.A.F. and several others from Paris, Professor Ximenes, the Spanish expert on things Hellenic, an American, and an Englishman. M. Bourdon, who published an excellent series of articles on the expedition in the Figaro, says with justice: ‘ De ces ascensionnistes pas un n’était de ces grimpeurs de carriére dont la mission semble étre d’escalader tout ce qui se dresse dans le ciel. Presque tous, au contraire, intellectuels ou artistes, se présentaient ... avec plus de volonté que d’expérience, et il est trop évident que, s’ils se trouvaient un matin réunis au pied de cette montagne, c’est qu'elle s’appelait l’Olympe.’ In Athens we were joined by Mr. Agapitos, Mr. Johannides (director of the Neptos Steamship Company), and a party of Greeks organized by the Hodoiporikos Syndesmos (‘ Club des ~ Marcheurs ’), the Touring Club and the Boy Scouts Association. Moreover, the Greek Government lent its warm support to the expedition. M. Georgalas, director of the Geological Bureau, was appointed to accompany the party ; while by the provision of motor transport, tents, a train of army mules with their ‘agoyates,’ and a body of light mountain troops (‘ Evzones ’) everything possible was done to facilitate the arrangements— even to the extent of the passing of a special Parliamentary decree for our convenience to allow of the boarding of a goods train by ordinary passengers in the valley of Tempe ! Two days and a night in Athens, with a wonderful moonlight picnic in the Acropolis, and (again by special procuration) at 6 a.M. on September 9 we were discharged by the Orient Express at the little seaside station that connects with Litokhoron. Omnibuses took us over an amazingly bumpy road to the village, where we had a scanty toilet, breakfast in the pic-

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Olympus: An International Expedition. 105 turesque café, and a highly interesting half-hour with the mules. When at 8.45 a.m. the procession filed out of the village we were 105 strong—some forty-five ‘ tourists,’ with fifty odd mules and their muleteers, a goodly patrol of Evzones (furnished, I feel, more by courtesy, and perhaps with a true Greek sense of the picturesque, than for security), and the trusty Kristo Kakalos, the chamois-hunter who had served with Boissonnas and Baud-Bovy on their original expeditions and is now the proud possessor of a printed visiting card bearing the words * Hodigos Olympou ’ (guide of Olympus) ! The clouds were low, and only by an occasional break could we catch a glimpse of the mountains in the distance. As we set out, the nin began. Following the regular route described by Mr. Elmslie (in ‘ A.J.’ 89, 86-99), we halted at Stavros (the Cross) at midday, and reached the monastery of St. Dionysius in the early afternoon. The tents were pitched outside the walls beyond the monastery and half-way to the Vythos, which provided a delightful, though distinctly chilly, bathing-pool. On the 10th we woke to rain, but as we mounted the clouds lifted. Boissonnas’ original plan had been to camp on the high plain of Bara (approximately 2350 m.), whence the route to the top is comparatively short and easy. At Litokhoron, however, he was told that the complete absence this year of snow in the vicinity and its distance from the nearest water, made Bara impracticable. We were obliged, therefore, to make for Kalivia (the Huts), 1962 m., used by the English party of 1926; and it was there that our tents were pitched for the three following nights. Half-way from the monastery a part of the mule-train and their packs had to be abandoned ; there too, at Prioni (the sawmill), the last running water was left behind. Fortunately the remainder of the mules, hired at Litokhoron and better used to the country, were able to con- tinue with most of the tents and baggage to Kalivia ; each day they were sent down to Prioni for water. A fairish wind, a damp mist (which I gather to be customary), and the slope of the ground made the pitching of the tents and up-tilting of our stretcher-beds a matter of some discomfort. The temperature at night fell to nearly zero [C.]. Personally on the third night at Kalivia I learnt that pine-branches and the open sky were infinitely preferable to a damp and sagging stretcher, on a damp and dewy ground, under an over-ventilated hut, and slept for the first time in comfort and warmth. But dawn broke ‘ wondrous fair’ over the still waters of the bay,

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106 Olympus: An Internatwnal Expedition. spirits were excellent, and everyone—or almost everyone—was up betimes on the morning of the 11th. A careful scrutiny had been made on the boat of Marcel Kurz’s Le Mont Olympe (see ‘ A.J.’ 84, 178), and some of us hoped to effect the complete traverse of the mountain ; but we had also hoped to bivouac at Bara. Camping at Kalivia, a beautiful spot but too far below the main peaks for practical purposes, involved some alteration of the programme, which only allowed two days on the mountain; it was decided to spend the first testing the merits of the party and visiting St. Elias and the Throne of Zeus, and leave the main peak to the following day. A little below the ‘lower col’ the party divided. The main group made its way right-handed to St. Elias, while a handful of the more «mbitious, in- cluding Mlle. Evelyn Baron, the most experienced of the Swiss ‘ gazelles,’ moving round the extraordinary circular depression that lies to the N.E. of Stefan, and, taking the main gully to the gap Stribadha, reached the Throne of Zeus (2909 m.) without difficulty about midday. Three of the Evzones with their officer accompanied us as far as the last, a rather giddy- looking, passage. A brief examination of the aréte leading down from the summit to Porta led us reluctantly to abandon any hopes of a descent by that route. The photograph gives @ good impression of the beginning of the ridge, which inclines more and more steeply as it approaches Porta. Most careful reconnaissance from below would certainly be needed before any such attempt. Moreover, a much less ambitious descent on the N.E. ridge (referred to at the bottom of page 91 of Mr. Elmslie’s article +1) gave ample evidence of the thorough rottenness of the rock, which I can best compare to the Aiguilles Rouges to the N. of the Chamonix Valley, and of the need for extreme caution in any descent by rappel. We reached Kalivia for a late but welcome tea. The 12th broke clear and warm ; the drifting clouds of yester- day had gone, and everything gave promise of a brilliant day. Moving almost due W. from Kalivia, after a stiff and tedious scramble in the sun up steep paths between the trees, and then over loose scree, Skolion (2905 m.) was only reached for a brief rest at 1 p.m. The view was superb. (The photo shows the “ gazelles’’ and others, with Kakalos at their head, making for 1 There is some confusion here. The ridge referred to in A.J. 89 is not a ridge on Stefan but a ridge leading up to Mitka from the gap Stribadha.—W. T. E.

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Olympus: An International Expedition. 107 lunch!) From there to Skala (2866 m.) is straightforward. While the bulk of the party rested, Brut, the cinematograph operator whom Pathé had sent with us, insisted on some varapping by the less amateur performers for photographic purposes on the crags of the Tarpeian Rock and the Virgin. Here I had the good fortune to discover half-buried on the crest mid-way between the two points the bottle with the inscription that Boissonnas and Baud-Bovy had left there in the fog in 1918. Here too I discovered to my shame, on seeing the film reproduction, the advantage of cord soles over Tricouni boots on sloping dalles and narrow arétes. Our gymnastics over, we returned with all speed to Skala to fetch those who were anxiously waiting to reach the main summit. We roped? and descended to the deep depression on the crest-line to the S. of the main summits, and in another half-hour were at the top (2917 m.). In all we were twenty-five, including ten of the ‘ weaker’ sex. Captain Demesticas, with three fellow-Greeks, scorning the use of ropes, was (as was only proper) the first to arrive. Boissonnas, indefatigable in spite of his whitened hair, was there with his Swiss ‘ gazelles,’ Baud-Bovy with his son Samuel, Etienne May and his friends from Paris, while the only Englishman of the party had the honour of arriving amid the enthusiasm of her fellow- countrymen with Miss Euphe Nomides, the first Greek woman to set foot on the summit since the days of the Goddesses. Greek, Swiss, French, and English flags were proudly waved, and two important rites accomplished. At the request of the Greeks, M. Boissonnas renamed the point ‘ Pantheon ’ instead of its previous inadequate appellation Mitka® (‘the Point ’) ; and in the name of the C.A.F.,8.A.C., and Alpine Club formally baptized the newly-formed Greek Alpine Club. Long may it live and flourish ! The remaining rite could only be accomplished after our return to camp in the glory of the sunset tints, with the aid of the champagne that we had, perhaps wisely, omitted to take 2 Ropes were more by way of moral support to inexperienced—in some cases totally inexperienced—climbers, than of necessity. For the first time a 35-m. rope that I had carried painfully with me for possible rappels justified its existence: it carried nine persons, including Boissonnas—pere, fils et fille! But the slope is steep and covered with loose and tumbling scree, and the rock treacherous. ¢ This name, ‘Pantheon,’ seems to be rather a pity, reminiscent of Rome and Paris rather than of Homer !—W. T. E.

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108 Off Days on an Empire Tour. with us to the top. Speeches, songs, and the rhythmic dancing of the Evzones followed im the flickering light of the camp-fire. Olympus had been taken by storm, without slip or incident to mar the success of the undertaking. ‘ Rosy-fingered dawn ’ peering forth behind Mt. Athos over the bay of Salonika and casting her first shafts of radiance on the white pinnacles behind us, called us back from romance to the crude facts of our programme. It was hard to leave. As we reached Litokhoron that evening the rain fel]. The Gods had truly been good to us! A walk through the Valley of Tempe, with a bathe in the Peneius ; a visit to the famous monasteries of the Meteors; a most hospitable reception on our return to Athens by the three Greek Clubs that throughout had treated us so well; and once more the Patris II and our respective homes, with a sense of real gratitude to the organizers of the expedition and the Greek Government that had helped so much to make it a success. Somewhat vaguely the expedition had among its objects the investigation of the region of Olympus with a view to sanatorva and ski. Since these mean roads, hotels, and the other amenities of civilized existence, all lovers of the mountain will rejoice to know that in the event these objects were almost entirely forgotten ! Orr Days on AN EmpIRE Tour. By L. C. M. 8. AMERY. HE following extracts from my diary, covering a few days in the South African Drakensberg round Mt. aux Sources, and in the New Zealand Alps, may possibly interest members of the Club. For mountain beauty entirely of its own kind, both of form and colour, as well as for the scope it offers to the rock climber, the Drakensberg deserves far more attention than it has yet received, and is well worth the voyage to South Africa for its own sake. Nor do I know a more delightful mountain centre than the comfortable and cheery little moun- tain hostel at Gudu. As for the New Zealand Alps, their fame is well known to the mountaineering world. All they need is more huts and more trained guides to open up an unrivalled field both for climbing and for Alpine ski-ing, summer and winter. Meanwhile the Hermitage, under Mt. Cook, on the I. of the main range, and the Glacier Hotel at Waiho at the

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Off Days on an Empire Tour. 109 foot of the wonderful Franz Josef Glacier, on the W., afford easy and comfortable starting-points for the region which has already been opened up and equipped with some huts. The Drakensberg. August 27. Woke up at Bergville to get a distant glimpse of the Drakensberg all covered in snow. At the station we found General Wylie, whom I first knew as commanding the Durban Light Infantry at Estcourt in 99, and with him two mountaineers, Botha Reid, son-in-law of the General and Registrar of the High Court, and Kingdon, a schoolmaster. Drove the 29 miles to the hostel at Gudu in the National Park. The views on the road of the 70-mile length of the Berg from Cathkin to Mt. aux Sources were magnificent, the snow picking out all the contours remarkably well. There was much other attractive landscape on the way, and yellow wattle and pink peach blossom, with lambs skipping round on green fields, made a pleasant foreground to the snows behind. About noon we fetched up at the hostel, a delightful little place consisting of a main building and stone ‘ rondavels’ scattered round and embowered in flowering mimosa trees, with the great amphitheatre of Mt. aux Sources behind. After lunch we walked up about 2000 ft. to & mountain called the Lion and got some steepish scrambling before we reached the main ridge and walked along. I tried from there to identify the gully down which I came twenty-five years ago, and was able to narrow down the possibilities to two or three. Apart from Mt. aux Sources, the other mountains round the hostel, as well as the clumps of native forest, make the whole setting very beautiful. August 28. Off about nine o’clock in the direction of Mt. Broome, beginning by ascending the steepish nose of one of the long spurs that are so typical here, and then walked along the ridge over turf and among scattered protea trees. We halted for lunch just above the saddle below Broome, and scarcely had we done so when a bitterly cold north-westerly wind sprang up. However, we managed to have a good lunch and then scrambled up Broome, getting to the top soon after one. From there we got a splendid view of the whole range down to Cathkin. From the climbing point of view, by far the best part of the range is the ridge running out to Cathedral Peak, a whole series of teeth and spires known as the Rockery Ridge, a great many of them, I fancy, frankly impossible. From Broome we walked some miles all over the top of the Gudu, which on the hostel side comes down in immense cliffs of yellow and pink, rather like the Dolomites above Pordoi, and eventually came to some cascades and delightful pools and, by craning forward, a view of the 200-ft. Gudu waterfall, where the streamlet falls into a pool surrounded by trees. From there we pushed on some distance until we came to the Gudu Gorge, down which we scrambled.

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110 Off Days on an Empire Tour. August 29. Started about seven for the Sentinel. A beautiful ride up the valley, crossing wooded kloofs at one or two places, with streams dripping in veils over the rocks. At Tiger Kloof there was & large and inquisitive family of baboons on the rocks above. The colour of the woods was picked out by brilliant bottle brush trees. Eventually rising by very well graded curves, we crossed the main ridge down from the Sentinel at the Gudu Pass and looked over into the Free State. Most of the valleys and slopes a wonderful copper-coloured russet, with here and there patches of bright green after burning. Carried on on the Free State side of the ridge, part of the way through fairly deep snow, and had tea at the Gap, where we were joined by Botha Reid and Kingdon. Presently the path climbed up by steep zigzags to right under the Sentinel. Following round under the Sentinel past the top of Sentinel Gorge and under an easy gully which leads to the top of the main mountain, we reached the cave, where we had lunch, and then proceeded to attack the Sentinel. There was about 50 or 60 ft. of real climbing at the beginning, a short scramble under an overhang and a chimney which lacked holds in the lower part, so that I was glad of a shoulder from Botha Reid. After that easy walking and scrambling up heather-grown slopes partly under snow, and then another bit of actual climbing, easy but exposed, and so to the broad sloping summit. (Height 10,700 ft. ; height of peak from path about 800 ft.) The view was glorious: Northern Natal below, and to one side the interminable plains of the Free State, with the Harrismith Platrand standing up quite close. In front of us and below us was the summit-plateau of Mt. aux Sources rising gradually towards the summit itself, 11,200 ft. Seen from there, the Eastern Buttress with Devil’s Tooth and Inner Buttress stand out from a more or less straight front, and the little peak which I climbed on the skyline in 1902 is beyond these.! That being so, it now seems to me pretty certain that the gully I went down by was also beyond the Eastern Buttress and was one leading down either into the Sinyati or the Mweni valley. This would account for its having more snow on it, as it faces more 8. We got down just before dark and as the wind began to get up, and had an Al supper in the cave. The cave is the best I have ever slept in, roomy, well vaulted, with a flat, sandy floor, fire in one corner, &@ broad space covered with hay and plenty of blankets filling one side and an alcove in another corner for ladies. We had mutton and duck stew, and then retired in comfort to our blankets. Unfortunately the wind soon got up and a terrific storm raged all night. A large sheet of tin roofing which lay outside in the gully, originally intended to supplement the 6-ft. stone wall which filled in the mouth of the cave, danced up and down the gully all night with a terrific clattering, and nobody dared go out to deal with it. 1 | believe this has now been christened Mt. Amery.

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Off Days on an Empire Tour. 111 August 30. Our plan had been to spend this day exploring the summit of the mountain and if possible going down my gully, but the storm made it quite impossible to do anything, and the only question was whether we should spend a day in the cave and hope for better luck, or godown. I decided for the descent, and we cleared out of the cave and moved off as fast as the gale would let us from under the immediate cliffs of Mt. aux Sources. This was an un- pleasant passage, as the wind was blowing rocks down from above every now and again. At one moment a terrific gust forced me to check myself on my ice-axe, and that very moment a large rock whizzed down a yard or so in front of me, and a smaller one, quite sufficient to crack my skull, hit my rucksack and cut right through it. When we came to the Sentinel Gorge and other gaps on the ridge it was too dangerous to try and go on the path for fear of getting blown right over, and the only thing was to cut down the slope some- where below. So we fought our way down for some hours, a very queer experience. Most of the time we were walking at every conceivable angle except the vertical. August 31. Went up after breakfast to the Tugela Gorge and Tunnel. A lovely ride, the colouring of the valley particularly fascinating. Above, great peaks against the blue, then broad banded cliffs of cream and yellow and red, and then the lower slopes alter- nately bright green and russet, with the deep blue-green of the yellow wood forest in the kloofs. There were plenty of baboons sitting on the tree-tops eating berries and barking at us, or making off over precipitous rocks with amazing skill. The actual junction of two valleys at the Tunnel is a wonderful spot, with views up the Eastern Buttress, etc., one way, the Sentinel the other, and the main wall between, and lovely bathing pools everywhere. For colour and landscape, if not for climbing, this side of the Berg is almost un- equalled in beauty. I imagine the Upper Sinyati and Mweni valleys must be fully as beautiful. As for climbing, I am not sure that there is so very much in between the easy and the quite impossible, but only a month or two of climbing would prove this. Crossing the New Zealand Alps. December 4. Hermitage. Had some talk after breakfast with Harper and came to the conclusion that the best thing was to go first to the King Hut and have a good look at Mt. Cook from Glacier Dome, leaving other plans open until we saw whether Cook was possible. Accordingly, immediately after lunch we proceeded, Harper and his active daughter Rosamond, Peter Graham and his nephew Dave, and one or two others, including two Press photo- graphers, to the Ball Hut, about four hours’ rather dull going along the moraine end of the Tasman Glacier. From the hut one begins to have quite a fine view of the upper part of the Tasman Glacier and Mt. Malte Brun opposite.

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112 Off Days on an Empire Tour. December 5. Got away before six and went up the glacier to the foot of the Haast Ridge and climbed up this to the King Memorial Hut. Pushed on to Glacier Dome, from which we had a most magnificent view of Cook and Tasman before us, with Haidinger, Douglas, Minarets, Elie de Beaumont away to the right, and, still farther round, Darwin and Malte Brun. The only thing com- parable with the view, to my mind, is that from Pizzo Bianco facing Monte Rosa. I am not sure that Mt. Cook and Tasman together do not beat Monte Rosa; on the other hand, there is nothing in the flat Tasman valley to compare with the view back from Pizzo Bianco down to the Italian lakes. We spent some time looking at the route up Mt. Cook and decided that it would go quite well, four fine days having sufficiently cleaned the upper rocks and settled the snow on the Linda Glacier. So we decided that Peter was to kick steps as far as he could the next afternoon, I taking a rest, as I had suffered a bit from cramp in my legs on the way up. Our idea was to start about midnight with the help of a good moon. However, before we got back to the King Hut the weather had changed ; heavy clouds brought rain and sleet, which lasted most of the next forty hours. We had a crowded and not too comfortable but cheery evening in the King Hut. December 6. Deluges of rain and sleet and snow all the morning, but about noon we decided that we had better get down in any case to the Ball Hut, Cook now being out of the question within the time available. So in drenching rain and high wind Peter, the Harpers, and myself scrambled down, followed some hours later by Dave and Vic Williams. December 7. The day opened wet, but about eleven it began to clear and we decided to go up to the Malte Brun. The position of the hut is extraordinarily fine—a wonderful view over the whole range from Cook up to the head of the Tasman. December 8. Got away about six with Miss Feiling and Alf Brustad on skis, and in a steady three hours’ plodding reached the top of the Lendenfeld Pass and got a fine view of the peaks on the other side. We had started with some idea of scrambling up the Hochstetter Dome, but its sides were crusted, which meant side- slipping down, so we decided to run straight down again. There was enough new snow on the old to make the running very pleasant, though not too fast, and the run itself was an easy one on which one could let oneself go. I stopped below the Malte Brun Hut and basked for some time in the sun, while the guides went across the glacier to kick steps up the Minarets in preparation for the morrow’s traverse. Altogether a day of wonderful sunshine, views, and lazi- ness. Some time after going to bed I heard a considerable din. Apparently a kea had walked in through the open door and dragged one of Harper’s boots out from under the stove across the floor and got it some way along the terrace in readiness to throw it down the 400-ft. snow slope. Harper was waked up by the noise just

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iy tae SS i a ce es ae oe Oe Bae = ae boasts I ee Oo — ae La — Oe a eee ee ee ; re en es is-4- SNE 2 P wed os eae aa > Se € »; fa br Vari 86 // fe ye ne TP) ¢, ee rit oF RR cent! te” ‘ , “| ‘ = akg Pia Tae TF by . _ if v 7 pone %d he ih i PS Bee eh te es, y 4 y ¢ Phot. W. J. Kennedy. 8 FT., from MALTE BRUN hut. Tasman Glacier in foreground. ~ ») ~ MINARETS, 10,0

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Off Days on an Empire Tour. 113 in time and retrieved his boot. When he shut the door and got into bed again he heard a low chuckle and at once knew that the kea had something up his sleeve, so he went out again and found that the kea had still got the leather instep supports without which Harper cannot walk. Fancy a whole expedition being held up by the deliberate mischief of an old parrot! At the Defiance Hut next night one of them tried to get my hat through the half-open window and was only just stopped by Peter. December 9. Up about 1.30 a.m., a cloudless night and all the mountains flooded in a glorious full moon. Got away at 2.30, and although the moon was by then already behind the Minarets the diffused light was quite sufficient for all our purposes. Plodded up steadily for some 2000 ft. in the steps kicked by Peter, and much admired his judgment in picking a route through the broken and often avalanchy slope, one schrund requiring particularly skilful negotiation. After that the going was decidedly slow, the snow being crusty, though hardly ever enough to hold one, and it was not. until about 10.30 that we reached the actual summit ridge just to the left of the Lower Minaret. Here Peter had hoped to find a way down, but the lie of the snow had changed considerably since last year when he had looked at it, and we concluded that it was im- possible, or at any rate would take us far too long. Certainly it was desperately steep and something like 2000 ft. or more down to the glacier with tremendous schrunds below. Leaving the problem unsettled for the moment, we went on to climb the main peak of the Minarets, first crossing a rounded dome of snow and then climb- ing a very sharp conical peak of hard ice curiously nubbly like barley sugar. The top was much too pointed to stand on, not to speak of its being slightly corniced, but we stood round it and patted it with our hands and then descended (about 11.30 a.m.) and traversed along the summit of the ridge for some distance past De La Beche, where we had lunch on some rocks at the edge, while Peter reconnoitred and began cutting steps down a very steep but straight slope of hard frozen snow leading to the glacier just to the left of Graham’s Saddle. After lunch we proceeded down this, Dave leading and cutting further steps, taking about one hour to get down some 700 ft., after which the going was easy, and we crossed Graham’s Saddle about 2.30 p.m. Then down the Franz Josef névé, which was boiling hot, plodding along—it seemed endless (how I sighed for my skis !}—on soft snow until we reached the site of the old Almer Hut, just above which we rested and brewed some tea. Then down some snow and a ridge of slippery tussock grass to the glacier. It was now getting on for seven, the glacier was broken and tricky, and a close question whether we should be able to get down to the Defiance Hut before dark or run the risk of being benighted on the glacier. Peter rushed ahead at a terrific pace and with remarkable skill in finding his way, the rest of us leaping and running behind as fast as we could over crazy knife- VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. I

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114 Grande Casse—Grand Motte Traverse. edges of rotten granular ice and soft snow bridges. However, we got opposite the Defiance before it was really too dark and struck the hut soon after nine, having gone nearly nineteen hours. We found there a couple of guides sent up from Waiho, who lighted a flare to let Waibo know, and had also prepared a good supper. So to bed and slept very comfortably, not feeling really done up. Undoubtedly, though the climbs are long, the fact that the maximum height was only just over 10,000 ft. makes a difference. I was much more tired on the Bernina after a week’s training last year. December 10. Got up after eight and walked with Harper along the edge of the moraine to where the Unser Fritz waterfall comes down 1200 ft. and there bathed in a natural armchair of rock, with lovely cold water sluicing over one’s shoulders. It was so good that when I had got out and got dried in the sun I had to go and have another and very nearly a third. Then breakfast, followed by a scramble up 1000 ft. or so through bush to the ‘ Garden ’ full of Mt. Cook lilies, oricias, white fennel, etc., and a few buttercups, otherwise no coloured flowers, and got a good view of the whole of our route down the day before. Then down to lunch, and so across the glacier and up through the bush path down to Waiho, a wonderful walk through natural fernery, wild fuchsia trees, ‘rata’ unfortu- nately not yet in blossom, and alongside us the great white mass of the glacier, which ends most beautifully and neatly, much better than any glacier I know. GRANDE CasSE~—GRAND MoTTrE TRAVERSE. M. Henri Metrrier kindly draws attention to an unfortunate error in the obituary notice of the late Maximin Gaspard, ‘A.J.’ 39, 308. The [above] expedition was repeated, August 8, 1901—three weeks after the Maximin Gaspard party—by M. Mettrier, with the guides Séraphin and Joseph Gromier, as related in Revue Alpine, 1902, pp. 48-50. | A short note on the history of the startling ridge connecting the Grande Casse with the Grande Motte may be of interest. The “Grande Casse’ portion of it, or E. aréte, is the only difficulty ; the W. aréte of the Grande Motte is more the broken edge of a face than an aréte. On September 23, 1900, Signor A. Ferrari, with E. Sibille and P. Damé, from a chalet between Entre-deux-EKaux and the Col de la Leisse, climbed the Grande Motte (4 hrs. 50 mins.), descended its rocky W. aréte to the ‘Col de Rosolin,’? the lowest depression between the two mountains (1 hr. 20 mins.), then mounted the E. aréte of the Grande Casse, keeping throughout almost entirely 1 Col de Pramoy of the French, 1 : 50,000, map; de Prémou of Gaillard, 3320m. ; or Col de la Grande Motte.

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7 « EX aT TT Pe ee” ° Phot. Wehrli. N.E. FACE OF LYSKAMM. (On left, 1890 route; on right, 1927 route.) In centre is intended “ Burgener” route.

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The N.E. Face of the Lyskamm. 115 on its 8. slope—the account is not very clear—and reached the summit in 5 hrs. 15 mins. more (‘ R.M.,’ 1900, p. 390). On July 19, 1901, Messrs. H. J. Mothersill and A. M. Bartleet, with Maximin Gaspard and Adolf and Josef Schaller, descended the K. aréte of the Grande Casse. Their route appears to differ some- what from that of Signor Ferrari, since they wisely clung as near as possible to the crest; their descent to near the Col de Pramoy, where they turned down a gully leading to the Val de la Leisse, took nearly 9 hours (‘ A.J.’ 20, 536-7). This expedition was almost exactly repeated by M. Mettrier as related above. He states in his account that he went along the aréte ‘ about 1 hr.’ farther than the British party before also turning down into the Val de la Leisse; he took from the summit of the Grande Casse to easy ground no less than 13? hrs. The Blanc family have been at various times on portions of the great jagged E. aréte when chamois shooting, and a few parties have had a look at the extremely uninviting prospect before turning back to the summit of the Grande Casse. Signor Ferrari makes no comments on the character of the climb ; M. Mettrier is still more emphatic than Mr. Mothersill in condemning the evil character of the ridge, and states that Maximin Gaspard declared that he would prefer to do the Meije traverse twice in one day than renew the climb. Both Mr. Mothersill and M. Mettrier concur in stating that for many hours it would be impossible to escape from the aréte except for comparatively very short distances. M. Mettrier adds that he has heard of no traverse in either direction since his expedition of August 8, 1901. KE. L. 8. a ei re ee THE N.E. Face or THE LYSKAMM. WituH reference to a note in ‘A.J.’ 89, 314-5, Monsieur E. R. Blanchet kindly points out that the E. summit of the mountain (4538 m., 14,890 ft.) appears to have been scaled on four (possibly five, see later) occasions, direct from the Grenz Glacier, the original “ Norman-Neruda-Klucker’ route being more or less adhered to. The parties were as follows :— August 8, 1925. Herren W. Welzenbach and R. Wolter. They kept to the left, E. of the ‘ Klucker’ rib, stated to be badly iced [when is it not iced ?] and attained the summit in 3 hrs. 50 mins. from the bergschrund. July 22,1927. Herr W. von Kehl, with Fritz Amatter and Fritz Suter, followed the rib throughout till close below the summit when they climbed out to the E.; 5 hrs. 5 mins., including halts, from bergschrund to summit. | .

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116 The N.E. Face of the Lyskamm. August 30, 1927. An unknown party of two, seen by M. Blanchet from the Zumsteinspitze. [I have since ascertained that this party consisted of Herren H. Hoerlin and E. Schneider; their time was 3 hrs. 20 mins. from bergschrund to summit.—E. L. 8.] As there appeared to be some doubt as to the direction of the original ‘ Klucker’ route, a photograph of the face was sent to ' Christian Klucker, and that great mountaineer replied at once as follows : ‘I have marked the “ Norman-Neruda” route of August 9, 1890, as accurately as possible. With reference to our 1890 route and to the N.E. face in general, I venture to make a few remarks : ‘(1) Our route up the Lyskamm, which I had studied before 1890, is the only one, leading from the Grenz Glacier via the N.E. face, which is practically safe from ice avalanches. The entire N.E. slope is cleft nearly throughout with overhanging séracs. To the left and right of our rock rib, and, still more on the upper part of the slope where the other route leading to the W. summit is dotted in on the photograph, are these séracs noticeable. ‘ (2) Zermatt guides had told me that the N.E. face had already been unsuccessfully attempted before 1890. The attempt was made by the Viennese mountaineer, von Kuffner, with Alexander Burgener and the two brothers Kalbermatten of Saas-Balen, and, curiously enough, their line of ascent lay where the other dotted line is shown,} but their intention was where the great rock bastion surmounted by an icefall emerges from the slope (at some § of the height of the face), to bear to the left and make for the E. or highest summit. (I have faintly marked this route on the photograph.) The two Kalbermatten, while cutting steps on the slope in prepara- tion for the attempt, were caught, just a short way above the bergschrund, by a small avalanche and carried, without damage, back again on to the surface of the glacier. This memento mort caused Herr von Kuffner to abandon the attempt. I regret that I have not got the date of this attempt. ‘ (3) I wanted a second good professional for our attempt, but it was difficult (without indiscretion) to obtain one in Zermatt. On August 8 Mr. Norman-Neruda informed me that the Tyrolese, Josef Reinstadler, wished to accompany us on this expedition. Reinstadler suited me, because I knew that he was very good on snow and ice, although less than mediocre on rocks.* ‘On the morning of August 9 as we were going up the Grenz Glacier, I had, strangely enough, a warning that our good Tyrolese was taking the Kuffner-Burgener route as the right one. I heard 1 The ‘ Blanchet-Mooser ’ route of 1927 to the W. summit. 2 I was for two seasons, 1894 and 1895, with Reinstadler, and this description exactly corresponds with his powers. He perished miserably, throttled by the rope, if nothing worse, on the Col de la Vuignette, Arolla, August 28, 1899, A.J. 19, 590.—E. L. 8.

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The N.E. Face of the Lyskamm. 117 behind me, before reaching the height of the contour 3600 m. of the map, Reinstadler saying to Mr. Norman-Neruda: “ Klucker should now bear to the right.” I flatly refused and proceeded. At the spot where the routes bifurcate we halted for breakfast and our Reinstadler set to work to explain our route. The steep rock- rib did not appeal to him and he kept shaking his head whenever he looked at it ! ‘In the @.A.Z. of that year, Mr. Norman-Neruda has inaccurately described the episodes of our ascent: he describes me as leading over the bergschrund up to the mb. This is not correct as _Reinstadler did all the step-cutting on the snow slope. Thence- forward, over the entire rib up to the summit, I led and the Tyrolese came up last. It seemed to him preferable that Mr. Norman-Neruda should be in front, as he, Mr. Neruda, unquestionably went better, sack and all, over the steep rib. | (4) ‘ Before ending, I should like to add the following: the second ascent of our 1890 route was made by the famous British mountaineer Mr. G. W. Young with Josef Knubel.? Unfortunately, I am ignorant of dates or details. As third ascent of the E. Lyskamm from the Grenz Glacier, I would mention the expedition of Herren W. Welzenbach of Munich and R. Wolter of Berlin, August 8, 1925. Their‘ route is parallel (to the left) to ours; it does not touch the rock-rib, and for 4 of the way is exposed to the most imminent danger of ice-avalanches. That is what I call irresponsible record-breaking ! * (Signed) CurisTIAN KLUCKER. ‘Fex, February 12, 1928.’ The route referred to in R.A., 1911, p. 307 (Obituary of the late Auguste Blanc), is a repetition of the (1902) Klucker-Mrs. Roberts- Thomson expedition to the W. summit (‘ A.J.’ 21, 266-7 and illustrations, Ibid. 38, facing 429; communication from Pierre Blanc). Another expedition said to have been led by a Gressoney guide, about 1910-11, appears to be purely visionary. 8 There is some mystery here. Mr. Young writes: ‘I have no recollection of this ascent and do not believe that I ever made it.’ M. Blanchet declares, on the authority of Knubel, that Mr. Young made the second ascent. M. Marcel Kurz states that Knubel now lays no claim to have been on any part of the N.E. face. Other persons still persist in declaring that they saw Mr. Young and Knubel on the face! Can it have been the astral bodies of this unsurpassed party which accomplished the feat ? Or did Knubel accompany some other British mountaineer—both in their earthly forms? It would be interesting to know.—Editor. ‘The route marked in the illustration A.J. 89, 314, is, in. reality, that of the 1925 German party and not, as stated, that of the ‘ Klucker ’ party.— Editor.

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118 The Ochs, or Klein Fiescherhorn. THE Ocus, on KLEIN FIESCHERHORN. [This note should be read in conjunction with Captain Farrar’s instructive paper under the above title, ‘A.J.’ 88, 223-30. Mr. Bowyear’s descent of the E. face of the mountain, July 16, 1890, the party consisting of the Rev. T. H. Philpott and Mr. H. T. Bowyear, with Christian Almer, senior, and Rudolf Almer, is described in ‘A.J.’ 15, 309-10. The following letter from Mr. Bowyear supplies additional details.— Editor ‘ A.J.’] ‘In Captain Farrar’s analysis of the Ochsenhorn the following sentence occurs: “‘. . . though Bowyear with old Almer came down a bit of the E. face . . . and, in their lower route, may have followed Fellenberg’s ascent.” * Old Christian Almer was really Philpott’s guide and Rudolf was mine ; any credit for the expedition belongs to Philpott rather than to me. Christian certainly thought the expedition was new, and it certainly was new to all of us; we were quite unaware of Foster’s ascent. “The photograph was taken five years later from the top of the Strahlegghorn, and on it I have marked as well as I can the route | ROO I TOOK BR RS ~— eee - - LS nt rr en et RR STONES | Photo, H, 7, Bowyear. THE FIESOHERHORNER FROM THE STRAHLEGGHORN, 1895.

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The Ochs, or Klein Fiescherhorn. 119 ollowed. We certainly came down the whole of the E. face. I clearly recollect Christian cutting down very steeply but slightly diagonally to the right [S.S8.E.] and then slightly diagonally to the left [N.E.], reaching the foot of the steep face near to the base of the N.N.E. ridge. There was a quantity of new snow, and, in the condition it then was, I should certainly have declined to go down that face if any one else but Christian had proposed it. But he knew all there was to know of snow-craft and loved it, and where he and Philpott were willing to go, I was content to follow. “My note made at the time, as my custom was, reads “ aimoat straight from the top,” and I think that we must have left the ridge somewhat nearer the top than the point at which Foster seems to have reached it on his ascent. When we reached the foot of the steep part we continued to descend the E. face, leaving point 3570 m. on our left, till we reached a point where Christian thought that, with the snow in the condition it then was, the glacier might not “go.” I pointed to the rocks on our right and said “‘ Why not try those ?”’ but Christian shook his head and said that the glacier above them threatened falls of ice or snow. Then came the thunder- storm and when it had cleared Christian tried the glacier somewhat to the left of where we had stopped ; but after several attempts he said that it was no good. The snow was very bad. We must have been somewhere near to the Ochsenjoch, by which, I understand, Fellenberg ascended, but there was at that time a good deal of cloud, and I cannot be sure of the spot. ‘At any rate, Christian returned to the place where we had stopped and said that we must try the rocks. This we did and descended rapidly and without much difficulty, so far as I can remember after a lapse of 38 years. No ice or snow fell. We kept as much as possible to the rocks in order to avoid bad snow. ‘We had left the Bergli at 02.50, reached the Fiescherhorn at 08.20, left at 09.00, and got to the top of the Ochsenhorn about 11.15. We must have left about 11.20, as the threatening weather forbade our lingering anywhere. It was about 14.00 when the storm came on, and it must have been nearly or quite 14.45 when we started for the rocks. We reached the Baregg at 17.45. ‘The upper part of the E. face was so steep that Philpott found it easier to go down backwards for a considerable part of the way. ‘I think that it is clear from what I have said that we came down the whole of the KE. face, and, in our lower route, did not follow Fellenberg’s line of ascent. When I took the photograph in 1895, Rudolf Almer and I tried to trace our route, and we agreed that it was approximately as shown by my dotted line, and I think it is not far from accurate, for from the time I commenced climbing I have always tried to understand and remember the routes by which my guides led me. ‘HENRY BowyeEar.’

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120 Knots for Climbers. Knots FOR CLIMBERS. By C. E. I. WRIGHT anv J. E. MAGOWAN. OR a long time past the question of the best knots for climbers’ use has been regarded as settled. This may be inferred from the fact that writers on mountaineering are almost unanimous in their opinions. They recommend for the end and middle of the rope and for the join respectively :-— The Bowline and the Fisherman’s Noose ; The Fisherman’s Noose ; The Fisherman’s Knot. This is redolent of Izaak Walton, and might arouse a suspicion that one had been sent by mistake the journal of a very different club. The association of such widely divergent pursuits is hard to understand, unless Samuel Johnson has somewhere defined a climbing-rope and paralleled his famous definition of a fishing- rod. Now it will be seen that there has been no advance since the Report of the Committee on Equipment in 1892, published in Volume 16 of the ALpinE JourRNAL. Rather there has been retrogression, for the Fisherman’s Noose has invaded the domain of the Bowline, and fantastic methods of making it tend to supplant the simpler and sounder recommendations of the Report. Brief as it is, the summary above fairly represents the position at present. For, even though an authority on climbing may mention some other knot, it is in such a diffident way that an impression 1s left that he has never put it to the test. A few knots so mentioned may be noticed at this stage and dismissed once for all. The Reef Knot is one, but it remains a mystery by what magic it can be used to make an end-noose without undergoing conversion into a slipknot at the first jerk and into a deathtrap at the next. The Double Bowline on the Bight, tempting to make in the position suggested by its name and offermg the benefit of a double turn round the waist, loses every merit but some degree of safety, if the two parts of the rope are pulled in opposite directions, and should never be used in the middle of the rope. The Manharness, most delightful of knots to make, provided only that the neatest method be known, and excellent for a steady haul on a rope

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Knots for Climbers. 121 which is itself under tension from end to end, may become a slipknot when pulled about by alternate straining and slacking. Now these are Just the conditions that occur in climbing, and they exact as the first quality in a good knot that it shall be unaffected by intermittent strain. The weakness in the knots hitherto recommended lies, in fact, in the middle noose. The Fisherman’s Noose is a slip- knot in one direction and it might well have been put out of court by such a grave defect, though it is said by optimists, a term necessarily including all climbers, never to be apparent in practice. Yet there seems to have been no serious rival, for the authorities are at one in condemning the Openhand Noose, although it is still in high favour with Swiss guides. Dissatisfaction with the middle noose was, then, the origin of this inquiry. It seemed as if it ought to be possible with a little ingenuity to discover a reliable noose. But contempt for the Fisherman’s Noose soon extended to dislike of the Fisherman’s Knot. The prejudice, in face of reason and fact, became in time a conviction, and the inquiry, somewhat widened in scope, was definitely set on foot as an attempt to discover any good knots that might be of use in climbing. THE END NOOSE. The search for new knots ended in partial failure in the section, which, though tackled last, must be treated first on account of its importance. The Bowline, backed by its deriva- tives, could not be ousted from its position as the best noose for the end of the rope. In adaptability and convenience it surpasses the nooses devised for the middle of the rope and described further on, although they rival it in other respects and are quite reliable as end-nooses. The Rover Noose, in particular, is excellent in this position. It is a worthy compeer of the Bowline, quite as reliable and much stronger, and, when once tautened, shows no tendency to work loose. In the Bowline the tendency to spring loose is usually met by taking some half-hitches round the bight at the waist. An absolute safeguard is the use of an eyed rope, for then there is no loose end to work through the knot. But this device does away with the great merit of the Bowline, the ease and speed with which the rope can be passed round the waist and the noose knotted, fitted and secured almost in a moment. It will be found that this can be done a trifle more quickly by the method given below than by that which is generally

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122 Knots for Climbers. followed merely because it has been slavishly copied from one book on knots to another. The difference consists solely in the direction in which the initial loop is formed, and this is indicated, here and further on, by the terms, screw-wise and counterscrew, which have been preferred to others more ambiguous on the ground that most climbers are familiar with some form of screw. Sailing men, accustomed always to coil a rope right-handed, or with the sun, will probably begin instinctively with the righthand or counterscrew loop. A trial of the method will reveal the distinct advantage that one movement fewer is required, and further, that the movements are peculiarly natural and easy in forming a Bowline at waist- level. | The Bowline (Figure I). The standing part of the rope, running towards one from the rest of the party, is held in the left hand, and with the right hand a small bight is drawn out to the right between the thumb and fingers of the left hand. The bight is, at the same time, twisted upwards and over towards one with a counterscrew movement of the right hand and is formed into a righthand loop. The end must next be passed under the left shoulder round the waist and down through the loop. One movement of the right hand now suffices to bring the end round the standing part of the rope and up through the loop. : Those who care to splice an eye, a span or more long, on their rope can make the Bowline on an Eyed Rope in the same way, but after being passed through the loop, the eye must be drawn well down, the right hand is then passed through the eye, the bight of the noose grasped and drawn back through the eye, bringing the knot with it. The eye now encircles the rope above the loop and will slip into its place, if the noose be drawn out and stretched. Perfect security is given by this Bowline, but only with the sacrifice of a very great convenience, for it cannot be made directly round the waist, unless the climber himself is able and willing to pass through the eye of a rope. The adoption of the counterscrew twist in beginning the Bowline may appear at first glance to be only a trifling departure from the usual practice. But it must not be despised and ought to be mastered at once, for not only the modifications of the Bowline, but other knots to be described afterwards are begun with the same loop. This makes for uniformity and simplicity, and has the further very great advantage that the knots are made right-handed. Moreover,

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BOWLINE. y YA, ‘AY 4 NA ‘ VWWwvaAS AAA” 7 DOUBLE BOWLINE. II. OPENHAND NOOSE. MI.

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' \ > ~ ~— “A ‘ -" — ** SAA DOUBLE-KNOTTED BOWLINE. IV. «<< ‘ \ BOWLINE AND COIL. V.

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Knots for Climbers. 128 in the Bowlines it suits the lay of the rope, closes the knot more firmly, and controls the end better, than if the knot were begun with the reverse loop. It is bad practice to make the common Bowline and leave the end hanging, for the spring of the rope may loosen the knot and the end work out. The end should be twisted in a few turns round the bight of the noose at the righthand side, or secured with some half-hitches. The latter have always been used by climbers, but the knot is much better, if they are preceded by a few turns in the same direction. The turns should be made to suit the lay of the rope, and with the usual lay they must be made upwards inside the rope at the waist (Figures I and IV). So made, they tend to keep the knot closed, as it lies in a better form. If, on the other hand, the Bowline be begun with a loop in the opposite sense, made with a screw-wise twist of the hand, the turns tend to keep the knot open. Thus in security, as well as in facility, there is a great gain in beginning the Bowline with a counterscrew loop. Of the derivatives of the Bowline, which have now to be considered, the first and simplest is begun with a double loop, so as to form a double knot. The double turn seems to grip the end more tightly and to ease the strain on the rope at its entry into the knot. Whatever the reason, this slight modi- fication, which adds only one second to the time required to make the knot, increases its strength out of all proportion to the extra time and manipulation. So much so that, where a single Bowline will serve the purpose, the common Bowline should always be replaced by the double-knotted form. The Double-Knotted Bowline (Figure IV). Begin by making a counterscrew loop just as in the Bowline. Take up a small bight in the rope just beyond the loop and turn it back in the same sense to form a second loop, which must be laid on the first. Pass the end down through the double loop, round over the rope and up through the double loop again. Secure the end with a few turns and a couple of half-hitches made upwards inside the rope at the waist. Another very strong form of single Bowline can be made by closing the common Bowline with the Waist-Rope Hitch, which is described later. The initial loop is made as before, the end passed to the left round the waist, and rove through the loop in a Waist-Rope Hitch instead of the usual knot. It makes a strong noose, included later in the table of tests

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124 Knots for Climbers. as the Bowline with Waist-Rope Hitch, and affords a fairly good way of dealing with the end, which may be left hanging free but not too short. The Double Bowline (Figure II) affords another good way of making the end secure, but it 18 not a strong noose. It is equivalent to the Double Bowline on the Bight, but is made in quite a different way to enable it to be formed round the waist. A single Bowline is first made; the end is left long and passed back to the right round the waist to follow the lead of the noose already made; it is then threaded through the knot beside its lead and left to hang. The Bowline round the waist is all the more comfortable for being double, as in the last knot, and were it still thicker, the pressure on the ribs might be greatly eased in a severe fall. In the next, the Bowline and Coil, it can either be made double, or, just as easily, several turns can be taken up and caught securely in the knot. This is probably the most convenient method of carrymg surplus rope and enables an end-man to reduce an overlong rope by twenty feet without discomfort. The ease with which the coil can be made and the knot tied illustrates the adaptability of the Bowline, and gives this form of it the preference over any noose in point of convenience. This application of the Bowline is as interesting as it is useful. With a single Bowline before one’s eyes as a guide it would appear almost impossible by such a simple expedient to include and secure in a Bowline knot a coil of rope already wound round the waist. The Bowline and Coil (Figure V). Make as many turns round the waist as may be desired, passing the end always to the left, until the rope where it enters the coil and the end where it leaves the coil come close together in front. Take the rope at its entry into the coil in the left hand and with the thumb push a bight down inside the coil. Bring the bight forward under the coil (Stage 1) and press the rope a little to the left to lie across the bight. This forms the same righthand loop as in the simple Bowline, but with the difference that the loop encircles the coil. Just as before pass the end down through the loop (Stage 2), then to the left over the rope and up through the loop. Finish off the end by giving it a few turns round the bight of which it 1s the continuation and a couple of half-hitches round the coil, passing the end upwards inside the bight or coil. To make a Double-Knotted Bowline and Coil is easy and interesting, but the double knot, though it may be useful when

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Knots for Climbers. 125 the coil is thick, has no strengthening effect in this combination. The bight is drawn out under the coil just as in the last knot, but much longer, and is then passed down inside it once more and drawn out underneath. The two turns thus formed round the coil to the right of the bight are loosened and laid down on the bight, with which they form the double loop. With an eyed rope the advantage of taking up a coil of rope is partly lost, for the turns must be made and the knot finished, before the coil is put round the waist. It has then to be fitted by passing the spare rope round the turns towards and through the knot. The preparation of the noose takes a little more time, but it may be worth while to have the comfort of the double turn with the security given by the eyed rope. Bowline and Coil on Eyed Rope. Make a loop on the rope just as in the single Bowline and in the same direction. Pass the eye down through the loop to make the first turn. Bring it on round in the same direction and down through the loop to make another turn, and repeat this until the coil is complete. Draw the coil, bringing the loop with it, through the eye, which settles round the rope and can be drawn down into the knot. The coil can also be made first and the loop formed by drawing a bight of the rope underneath the coil as in the knots just described. The Bowlines have now been presented in all their variety, and they are a versatile family. At their best they have only one rival for the end of the rope. The Rover Noose, designed for the middlje, and derived, as it was, from an improved Manharness, is still classed in the next section. But it fulfils quite as well, or even better, all the requirements of an end- noose, and must be considered with the best of the Bowlines, before a final choice is made. With this important addition the series offers the climber who wishes to choose only among the best a noose of unrivalled convenience in the Bowline and Coil and two of great strength in the Rover Noose and the Double-Knotted Bowline. THE MIDDLE NOOSE. The noose hitherto accepted as the best for the middle of the rope is called the Fisherman’s Noose. In some books on mountaineering it masquerades as the Middleman Noose, a misnomer adopted by devotees for the sake of implying that

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126 Knots for Climbers. it stands alone. Now, so far from being the only middle noose, if the slight change of term be an improvement, there are in existence a few well-known nooses of this class and others may be invented. Among the latter at any rate, it may be said at once that there are several nearly as faulty and just as unsuitable for the middle of the rope, so that the Fisherman’s Noose is by no means without a rival even at its own weight. None the less it is a great favourite with climbers, and with the detached affection of Izaak Walton they deal with it as though they loved it. Their treatment of it is a remarkable commentary on the scant attention given to methods of making knots. There are eight ways, and may well be more, of making this too well-known knot, and it passes compre- hension, by what mischance, for it can hardly have been deliberate choice, some of them have found their way into books on climbing. One distinguished climber gives a method which has no merit but slowness, not even the proverbial sureness. Another adopts the method of a puzzle-knot and offers the simple-minded climber a fisherman’s knot as made by a conjurer. Climbing, fishing, conjuring! It sounds like a passage from Alice in Clamberland. Yet a third recom- mends the same method without the option of an alternative, but complains that it is hard to explain to his readers. Well, naturally. It was devised to prevent an audience from following what was being done, and it requires a little sleight- of-hand, that is as much out of place on rock or glacier as are all other manifestations of juggling and angling. No greater contrast in manipulation could be found than the noose which is now described as the nearest equivalent. It is, perhaps, the best instance in this paper of exceptionally simple and natural movements in handling a rope. The Half-Hitch Noose (Figure VI). Take a short bight of the rope in the right hand and hold it pointing upwards, the parts of the rope running to the left and right (Stage 1). Stretch out the left hand and grasp the lefthand rope with the thumb outside pointing along the rope. With a sweeping movement bring the left hand round in front and inwards until it is just in front of the right hand (Stage 2). This movement forms a loose half-hitch. Lay it over the bight. Release it and take the bight in the left hand above the half-hitch. If the right hand be run down the bight, the half-hitch will follow it and settle

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> aa ee Ack Wa _ “i ~ G* \s \ ‘yy a a ane aS a an ev eA SSANAANAAAAS © < BLS NEADS ESE SAA SARA \ \ 4 a te et eh { — . . HALF-HITCH NOOSE. VI. apt, yy , - * _ lee , 4 \ ae ~ _ Se “* 7 NOOSE BUTTERFLY Il. Vv

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VIII. ROVER NOOSE. IX. POINTED AND EYED ROPES. ae ~sesS DA sr X. TWO-WAY HITCH.

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Knots for Climbers. 127 in its place. Now grasp the righthand rope with the thumb outwards, and bring the hand round and inwards to form another half-hitch (Stage 3). Drop it over the bight and let it settle into position just above the former half-hitch. Strain the rope a little and press the two half-hitches close together. Better if put on with the parts of the noose crossing in the middle of the knot; otherwise they tend to stretch the knot. The noose is named in order to impress on the memory the method of making it with two half-hitches. The looser it is left the better, for tautening weakens few knots more than this. With the least possible tautening and with the two half-hitches brought closely into contact, it 1s a satisfactory middle noose and much better than its barbarous prototype. At first glance it would appear to be an easy task to supply a really good middle noose, for the Openhand Noose (Figure ITI) has not yet been quite discarded from the position and yet it is &@ good example of defects to be avoided. Made by a simple Overhand Knot on a bight of the rope, it is reliable and will not dislocate or shift its position. These are its merits ; now for some defects. In respect of wear it is very severe on the rope. It is a tight knot and may be very difficult to open. Since it is a short as well as hard knot, it has no spring and will not help to ease a sudden jerk by its resilience. The two parts of the rope enter the knot together in the same direction, and consequently, when they are strained apart, either one or the other must take the strain at a very sharp angle. It is the same very serious defect, the lack of a straight entry, which also forbids the use of the stronger, but clumsier, Figure-of-Eight Noose in the middle of the rope. These points give some idea of the qualities kept in view in the search for a suitable noose. Some of the neatest that were found resembled the Manharness in the ease with which they could be made, a very important quality, but had to be rejected, because they might suffer dislocation, even though it were only in very unlikely conditions. Some that were reliable and yet easy on the rope, two requirements rather hard to reconcile, were somewhat complicated to make. But all of them possessed in a straight entry the one quality that is especially desirable in a middle noose. The ropes should run into the knot without any sudden turn that would constitute a weakness under a violent strain. Of the two knots about to be described both have this essential property, and the ropes enter them in opposite directions, which is the normal position of the rope when in

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128 Knots for Climbers. use. The Butterfly Noose, though slightly less strong, pro- bably approaches the ideal more closely and is an excellent middle noose. It is naturally a very loose knot and nothing is gained by tightening it. The bights in the knot move on each other with a peculiar hinge-like freedom that makes the knot very easy on the rope. In spite of its looseness it keeps its position, and once it is nearly in its proper form, a severe strain in the rope merely tautens the knot without taking up any of the noose, even when the latter is quite slack. Neither very neat nor good to look upon, its merits will be better appreciated after long acquaintance. The Butterfly Noose (Figure VII). Hold the rope with the two hands, the thumbs pointing towards each other and separated by a length of rope more than ample for the waist. Bring the hands together, the right in front, to form a righthand loop, which hold hanging in the left hand with the fingers passing through the loop from behind (Stage 1). With the right hand take the righthand part of the loop at Y fairly close to the neck, and with a movement of the right hand make a small righthand loop or turn round the left fingers at X. Keep it in position by placing the left thumb over it and keep it open with the left fingers (Stage 2). Pass Y up over the rope (Stage 3) and through X from behind. In pulling it through, take it with the right hand and give it a half-twist screw-wise, which will cross the parts of the noose at the base and make it easier to draw the rest of the noose after it. In doing this do not pull the knot taut. It is better to strain the ropes and bring the knot into its proper form before tautening it. Put the noose on and adjust it to fit by passing the spare through the knot, keeping its form by holding it firmly in the left hand. The noose should always be put on so that its parts cross each other in the middle of the knot, the position into which they naturally fall. Tauten the knot but little. Open by drawing the wings of the butterfly apart, or pulling the noose back through the knot. In the illustration the finished knot is shown twice. In the figure to the right the knot has been turned over merely to show the inner side. The figure to the left gives its normal appearance. The Rover Noose is formed by a handsome knot, which should be drawn rather tight, but it bears tightening well and is quite easy on the rope. In pulling it into its final shape, it is well to watch that the rope coming from the climber’s right lies always to the right of its lead in every part of the knot.

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Knots for Climbers. 129 This means that, wherever two ropes lie parallel in contact in the knot, the rope entering the knot from the right should lie on the righthand side of that running side by side with it. If this precaution be neglected, the knot is still quite reliable, but it is looser and its appearance suffers. With this pre- caution, which is little trouble, it is much snugger and the two ropes are much more widely separated at their emergence from the knot, a distinct merit in a middle noose. Both this knot and the last, though designed for the bight of the rope, make reliable end-nooses ; but with neither of them 1s it possible to take up several turns of rope, as can be done so easily and quickly with the Bowline. The Rover Noose, as already stated, is an excellent end-noose. It is much stronger than the Bowline in the end position and may be much safer than the latter, unless the loose end of the Bowline is carefully secured. If there were any advantage in having the same noose for all positions on the rope, were it only to save the novice the strain of learning a second knot, the Rover Noose would seem to be the most suitable as an all-round noose. The Rover Noose (Figure VIII). Take up the rope with the hands a span apart. With a swing of the right hand make a small righthand loop round the fingers of the left, and, continuing the movement upwards, draw the noose up past the loop; make the left thumb and fingers pass round the base of the noose and meet in the loop (Stage 1). Pass the noose backwards, release it, and let it hang down behind the left hand (Stage 2). Pass the right hand from the front under the ropes ; grasp the noose and bring it forwards and upwards and through the loop from the front. The knot is much better if the righthand rope emerges to the right of its lead through the knot, that is, the ropes come out of the knot as far apart as possible. This must be ensured at the beginning by using the left thumb to hold the righthand rope in the proper position against the loop. When this knot is made in an end-noose, it is essential that the lefthand rope is that running to the rest of the party and that the righthand rope is the free end. The importance of the caution just given cannot be exag- gerated. It is explained by the utter lack of symmetry in the knot. In one direction it forms the strongest of all nooses ; in the reverse or righthand direction its strength falls by one- sixth and in this form it is quite unsuitable for the end of the rope. VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. | K

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180 Knots for Climbers. Even in the reverse direction it is still good in the middle of the rope, but to get the best out of it, 1t is well before making it to consider a moment from which side the greater strain is likely to come and to work with the rope from that direction in the left hand. The inequality in the reverse knot is characteristic of middle nooses, but it concerns the climber much less in those, like the Butterfly, that are nearly symmetrical from end to end. The difference in the symmetry of the two knots shows up clearly in their behaviour under breaking tests, in which it is advisable always to measure the extreme load of middle nooses in both directions and to determine once for all at which end they are stronger. To meet the lack of symmetry it is better for the sake of consistency to make a simple convention with regard to the middle nooses. In making the knots one is supposed to work with the lefthand rope running to the leader, or more accu- rately, for the case is altered in a descent, in the direction from which strain more frequently comes. This rule is important, because it ensures that the middle nooses are used at their full strength, while they are still made by the simplest methods; but it has the complication that, when the noose is passed directly over the shoulders, the knot is found to lie at the righthand side. If the rope is required at the right, the procedure is correct and some untidiness in the knot must be tolerated. The fact is, rather luckily, for it might be just the other way, that both these knots lie much more naturally at the left side when the noose is round the waist. The lefthand rope in the illustrations will then run from the climber’s left side towards the leader, as is the usual practice, unless there is a steep downward slope to the left of the party. To bring the knot into this position after it has been made it is necessary either to step over the rope into the noose and pull it upwards into place, or to pass the rope over the head to the left side and draw the noose downwards. The nuisance of passing the rope across the body seems to be inherent in these nooses, for it can be avoided only by adopting complicated methods of making knots, a much greater inconvenience, or by reversing the direction of the knot by making it on a reversed section of the rope. Oddly enough a bad noose is immune. The explanation of the apparent paradox is that the defect, where it arises, is bound up with that best of good qualities, a straight entry. The ideal noose of this type is necessarily one-sided ; when it is

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Knots for Climbers. 131 made by the simplest method, with the leader on the right, and then put on directly, the knot must lie in its neatest form at the left side. These are the conditions of the problem which the Butterfly Noose so nearly satisfies, but a full solu- tion is likely long to elude climbers unpractical enough to take an interest in knots. Meanwhile, until the ideal is discovered and the Rover Noose perhaps banished to the section to which it more typically belongs, some precautions must be taken. For strength and safety in making the Rover as end-noose it is essential that the lefthand rope leads to the rest of the party ; and for uniformity in making the middle nooses it is better to work with the leader to the left and to pass the rope to the other side before putting on the noose. Even the climber who is quite careless about the life of his rope and the neatness of his knots cannot afford to neglect the warning given above and make an end-noose wrongly. He may, however, regard as niggling the hints which follow about the Rover and the Butterfly as middle nooses. If so, let him ignore them and put the noose on anyhow, confident that with these excellent nooses he will at the worst be in no worse case than with the best of the old knots. THE WAIST ROPE. So far as memory serves, only one writer on climbing was found to make any reference to the use of a waist-rope, and in his opinion it was to be condemned as bad practice. Why it should be so was hard to understand, for there seems to be some convenience in two middlemen hitching themselves to the main rope by means of a separate rope round the waist. But a little consideration gave the clue to the mystery. None of the well-known hitches would quite satisfy a climber. He must have a hitch that will stand a strain in either direction. The Two-Way Hitch was designed to meet this requirement and nothing else was found that was both simple and effective. The Two-Way Hitch is begun exactly like the knot in the Bowline and its principle is the same, but it is a symmetrical knot and takes a strain equally in either direction. The Two-Way Hitch (Figure X). With the right hand draw out a bight of the rope and with a counterscrew twist make it into a loop ; pass the cord down through the loop, then towards the right, up over and behind the rope and

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182 Knots for Climbers. up through the loop from below. This movement is just as in the Bowline, and the knot is now half made. Pass the end of the cord on over and round under the lefthand part of the rope and down through the loop. Tauten a little. Once this knot can be readily made, the step to the next is easy. One great test of a knot is to try how it stands, when one cord is thicker than another. Now, if the Two-Way Hitch is made loosely, a condition in which it is still usually secure, of light cord on rope, and if there is a jerk or violent strain on the rope, while the cord remains slack, the loop in the rope may be pulled out flat and the knot dislocated. The conditions are not likely to occur in climbing, but it is better to be on the safe side. When the knot is half made, a couple of turns are taken round the cross of the loop, the knot is finished as before, and now affords a secure Waist-Rope Hitch. The Waist-Rope Hitch (Figure XI). Proceed as in the Two-Way Hitch, but at the half-way stage take two turns with the cord round the cross of the loop to remove the possibility of its being flattened out by tension. Tauten the cord, but it is better not to tauten the loop in the main rope too much. The waist-rope had better be of thinner rope, two-thirds the girth, and doubled exactly in two so that it ends in a bight. The hitch is made by reeving the bight through the loop on the main rope, one turn round the cross being sufficient, if the waist-rope is double. The rope is now brought to the side preferred without regard to the direction of greatest strain, which is immaterial with a symmetrical knot. The waist- rope is passed round the body in such a way that its parts cross each other in the middle of the hitch, and is closed by fastening the ends to the bight with a sheet bend (Figure XJ). The great strength and reliability of this hitch should remove any objection to the use of a waist-rope. As it is symmetrical and equally good in either direction, it would seem to be stronger on the whole than any of the middle nooses. THE BEND. The Fisherman’s Knot has long stood alone as a tie for two climbing-ropes. It is used by anglers to join two pieces of gut. On one end of gut an overhand knot is made which

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“IX ‘“HOLIH FAdOU-LSIVA IX ‘LONA S.NVWYSHSIS a *AN :

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: SSMAANNAD XIV. THE REEVER KNOT. THE SENNIT KNOT. XIII.

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Knots for Climbers. 138 encircles the other piece. The two are then turned round and a knot made on the other loose end to encircle the first piece of gut. This device of reversing the gut at the half-way stage ensures that both knots are made with the same hand, and the knot is in the concordant form, which is slightly stronger. It is the form adopted in the Report of 1892, which recommends the making of two separate righthand knots even when it is used to form a middle noose. Now it is not uninteresting to note that in recent syncopated methods of making this noose it 18 always the discordant form that arises, consisting of a righthand knot on a lefthand knot, and further, that this weaker form, for a reason which quite escapes its advocates, is slightly the better in a middle noose. The Fisherman’s Knot (Figure XII). Either of the following methods gives the concordant form and ensures that it is made with the lay: 1. Half-knot method.—Begin with a half-knot just as in the Reef Knot, with the righthand rope behind (Stage 1). The lie of the ends now shows the direction in which each end must be brought on round the other rope in forming the overhand knots. 2. Threading method.—Turn the righthand rope back towards the right, and on its end make a righthand overhand knot. Turn the knot back towards the left and thread the lefthand end through it (Stage 2 of method above). On this end make a righthand knot encircling the other rope (Stage 3 of method above). Tauten the knots before drawing them together. In climbing it is the stronger concordant form that should always be used as a join. Though better than the discordant form, it is lumpy and not very neat in appearance, and it is severe on the rope. The last point, however, important as it may be in a middle noose, matters less in this case, for the ends can be cut away when they show signs of wear. It must be well tightened, and is then a hard knot, in which the strain is taken solely by the touching surfaces of two over- hand knots. The knot is without any spring or resilience, but none the less it 1s reliable and effective. If a knot is to possess resilience, there must be some inter- lacing of the ropes, which will distribute the strain among the various turns in the knot and spare the rope. This involves a longer knot, but length, unlike thickness, is no disadvantage, provided neatness be not sacrificed. Of the knots mow suggested as suitable for use in climbing,

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184 Knots for Climbers. the first is particularly neat and handsome. If left loose and open, and then strained, it may take a form that is without neatness, though still quite secure. It ought to be thoroughly tautened by pulling on the ends and on the ropes alternately and by kneading it with the fingers, until it is flat and compact. It has then the reliability and much of the neatness of a splice. In view of suspected defects its behaviour under breaking tests was closely watched. In spite of the high tension it finally withstood, it retained its handsome form to the last and no signs of collapse were apparent when the cord snapped. The Sennit Knot (Figure XIII). Take up the ropes with the ends towards each other so that in either hand there is a bight with the end hanging down; bring the right over to the left hand and behind it; then change hands on the bights, overlap them and bring them into the form shown (Stage 1). If the bights have been made small, this arrangement can easily be held in the left hand. With the mght hand pass l backwards under R, through Y from the back, over the crossing ropes and through X from the back (Stage 2). In the same way pass r from the front through X, forwards over the cross and from the front through Y. Tauten well by pulling on the ropes and the ends alternately and by working the knot with the fingers. Make sure that either end is passed through both bights from the same side, in one case through both bights from the front, in the other case through both from the back. To open, if very taut, grasp the ropes and the ends together just outside the knot and compress it a few times. The ends are then easily withdrawn. The next knot is simpler than the Sennit Knot, and at first trial would appear to be easier to make, but it offers some scope for error. The Reever Knot (Figure XIV). Bring the ends together as in beginning a reef knot, but keep the centre of the half-knot open in the form shown. Note that the ends lie above the ropes (Stage 1). Next give each end a turn round the other rope and bring it back towards the centre and down through the space. At this stage, to avoid the chance of a mistake, which might lead to a reef knot, keep each end pressed into the angle of the opening and well away from its own rope (Stage 2). Now pass each end on through the eye at the other end of the knot to lie beside its own rope.

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Knots for Climbers. 185 Tauten by pulling ends and ropes alternately. Opened easily by compression. Only a short reference need be made here to the rule that knots should be made with the lay of the rope. The joins, like the reef knot, are begun with the righthand rope behind the other for the sake of conforming to the usual lay. Since the strands run screw-wise in the rope, the ropes should lie together counterscrew-wise in the knot. The run of the rope through the knot may be reversed as an experiment by beginning with the left hand behind. The point is well illus- trated in the contrast between the two edges of the flattish Sennit Knot, which is made with the lay along the thinner edge, where the strain is greatest. Along this edge the ropes enter and are spirally twisted in such a way that the strands lie in the general direction of the ropes and knot. Along the thicker edge, on the contrary, the ends lie spirally counter to the lay in such a way that the strands run across the knot and are more opened by the slighter strain. In the Bowline, as already explained, the knot holds better for being made with the lay in direct opposition to the practice of the autho- nities. On the whole, however, the principle is of little account in climbing, for it must be violated, when, as in the middle nooses, it clashes with more important considerations. One eminent authority, in fact, seems tacitly to recognize this. After laying down the law that knots must be tied with the lay, in his illustrations he shows them, either out of facetious- ness, or unconsciously for a more obvious reason, made left- handed and consequently always against the lay. The knots just described have been preferred to others equally strong, because they grip the ends firmly when the rope is slack. The repeated slacking which is inevitable in climbing tries a knot severely, tending to ease the nip on the ends and let them work loose. In this respect the knots are safe, even if the projecting ends be left quite short. More- over, the ends emerge side by side with the ropes and are less liable to catch in obstacles. For that matter they can be tied in smoothly, if, instead of the usual whipping, they are pointed and finished off with an eye or becket, through which a short piece of string may be rove. This may be a refinement, but there are rare occasions, lassoing, for instance, or throwing a rope with any object, when it might be useful to fasten a light cord to the rope, and that cannot be done neatly and securely, unless there is an eye in the rope.

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186 Knots for Clombers. It should be noted in favour of the pointed and eyed rope that no neater or safer finish can be given to any of the Bowlines than by passing the end as usual in a few turns round the rope at the waist and then lashing the two together by means of a cord rove through the eye (Figure IX). The small eye or becket used as a neat finish to a pointed rope is quite different from the spliced eye or loop mentioned in connection with the Bowline. The latter, a span long, is awkward, and has for sole advantage the security it gives to the Bowline. The former, no wider than the diameter of the rope, is never in the way, is no hindrance to any use of the rope, and enables a cord to be attached to it securely and very quickly. CONCLUSION. Now that the methods of making the new knots have been given, climbers who have borne the tedious descriptions with patience will probably be glad to have the comments that are scattered through the notes brought together in a summary : I. The Double-Knotted Bowline and the Rover Noose, of nearly equal merit, are the best nooses for the end of the rope. The Bowlie and Coil, though weaker, provides the most useful and adaptable end-noose. II. If there is any gain in having the same noose for end and middle of rope, the Rover Noose is the best all-round noose. III. In the middle of the rope the Butterfly Noose surpasses the Rover Noose. The Half-Hitch Noose, though effective, is much inferior to either. IV. The use of a waist-rope is justifiable with a strong and reliable hitch like the Waist-Rope Hitch. V. For bending two ropes together the Sennit Knot is neater than the Reever Knot, which is otherwise equally strong and good. The Fisherman’s Knot 1s also reliable and only slightly weaker. This summary may be put more practically in a series of hints, which will enable the climber to suit his own aims and to confine his study of knots to a small selection. Thus novices who wish to learn one knot and no more will find their heart’s desire in the Rover Noose. Expert climbers who wish to go further, but take little interest in the vagaries of

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Knots for Climbers. 187 knots, who like the Bouvier, but object to the bottle, would do well to master and apply the Bowline and Coil for the end of the rope and the Butterfly Noose for the middle. Others who value strength in a knot and wish their rope to have the greatest margin of safety on difficult and exposed routes have their requirements met by the Double-Knotted Bowline or the Rover Noose for the end of the rope and the Waist-Rope Hitch for the middle. For the sake of referring briefly to the new knots it was inevitable that they should be given distinctive names. In making the selection, which proved a critical and troublesome matter, regard was had to the purpose or appearance of the knot, so that the name might be suggestive and easily remembered. Usually the difficulty was to com an appro- priate name without sacrificing simplicity. Thus Rover Noose is simple in form, but is cumbered with the far-fetched impli- cation that it will go anywhere on the rope. The term, Bowline and Coil, 1s briefly descriptive of this useful adaptation of the Bowline. Two-Way Hitch and Waist-Rope Hitch convey the purpose of the knot. The Reever Knot is named rather at random, because there is some reeving in the making of it and because it has some analogy with the reef knot. The Sennit Knot is very close to the flat plaited rope called sennit. The Butterfly Noose is so styled on the basis of a more or less fanciful resemblance imagined in the form of the knot. Running through this paper there will have been traced an heretical idea that climbing is worthy of its own knots. It 1s a short step to the belief that knots specially designed for use in climbing must inevitably surpass casual adoptions from tamer and duller pursuits. But, none the less, it must not be thought that the new knots have been put forward without due consideration. The merits of old and new have been weighed and the preference given to those that were fairly simple to make, neat in appearance, easy on the rope and reliable under intermittent strain. To follow out the methods of the Report in making a selection the new knots were submitted to a breaking test, which had to be conducted on a small scale with cord instead of rope. The cord selected was an excellent line of Italian hemp, laid up like rope and resembling it closely in every particular. It turned out to be exceptionally strong, for with a diameter of only » of an inch its average breaking strain in fourteen tests was 21 lb. 1°8 oz.

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188 Knots for Climbers. As a check on the results some of the older knots were included, and they all showed much higher percentages than in the Report. In one case, the Openhand Noose, the differ- ence is so great that it may be questioned whether the same knot was used. In other cases the higher figure may be explained in part by differences in pliability and roughness, which would greatly affect the nip of the knot, and in part by the great difference in thickness between cord and rope, which may tell in favour of the former. In any case the discrepancy must be due to some cause which affects all knots in common, and the use of a fine cord need not invalidate the results, since, in all probability, the relative position of the knots is unchanged. The nooses were all tested as end-nooses, but their proper STRENGTH OF KNOTS. | Joins Reef Knot : . 5 . | 63-4 | 62-8 | 9-6 | 2118 Carrick Bend . : ‘ : 63:2 | 9-4 | 2134 Thumb Knot. : : . | 57-7 | 69-7 | 9-4 | 2351 Diamond Bend . : 2 69-9 | 1-2 | 2358 Fisherman’s Knot, Discordant ; 70-9 | 7-1 | 2392 * J | Fisherman’s Knot, RoeeNers . | 61-7 | 81-2 | 9-5 | 2741 +? J | Sennit Knot. ; 86-2 | 10-8 | 2908 Unnamed Knot Z ‘ ; 86-3 | &-3 | 2910 ad J | Reever Knot. . . 86-4 |} 8-9 | 2014 Carrick Bend laid up. ; ; 94:2 | 8-5 | 3178 Nooses E Double Bowline m ; ; 72:5 | 6-3 | 2445 E Fisherman's Noose. : . | 65-0 | 73-6 | 12-0 | 2482 M | Rover Noose, Reverse : : 76°5 | 6-8 | 2580 * M | Half-Hitch Noose ; : : 77-6 | 11-5 | 2617 E Bowline . 72-4 |77-8 | 7-6 | 2626 E Double-Knotted “Bowline and Coil 79-1 | 13-2 | 2670 ** | E Bowline and Coil 5 79-5 | 5-4] 2681 Openhand Noose , ‘ . | 64-1 | 79-6 | 8-6 | 2686 = M | Butterfly Noose ' : g 84:9 | 8-2 | 2865 M | Butterfly Noose, Reverse . ; 85-1 | 6-9 | 2870 E Bowline with Waist-Rope Hitch . 87-6 | 5-6 | 2956 pd M | Waist-Rope Hitch . ‘ ; 89-3 | 6-5 | 3013 ** | E Double-Knotted Bowline 92:0 | 7-3 | 3103 | ** | EM | Rover Noose. “ : 92-5 | 6-0; 3121

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Knots for Climbers. 139 position on the rope is indicated in the table by the letters KE and M. The middle nooses were in two cases tested in both directions, and the result on the righthand rope is entered against the reverse knot. AE Bowline and Coil. . 28 Waist-Rope Hitch . . 164 The Bowlines, though easy, take an unexpectedly long time, but much of it is spent in securing the end. The middle nooses have still to be adjusted. They differ by little, but all

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140 Knots for Climbers. take more than the six seconds of the Manharness, which was included for the sake of comparison. The Fisherman’s Noose compares favourably with others of its class. But it did not show to advantage at first, for it was made by a novel and ingenious method, recommended in a work on climbing, which took no less than twenty seconds. This seemed so needlessly long in comparison with similar nooses that other methods of making it were devised. Not only were they simpler, but much quicker, taking 8, 84, 9 and 10 seconds respectively. Thus, although speed cannot be used to discriminate between knots, it is a good test of method. A knot cannot be made quickly, unless the move- ments required by the method are easy and natural, and the great difference just noted shows that it 1s well worth while to seek and learn the best way of making even a widely known knot. In the case of the new knots no pains have been spared to discover the neatest and simplest methods, and climbers who learn and apply them should be safe from the annoyance of having ultimately to discard them for better. These knots are new in the sense that no earlier record of them has been traced. But it might be rash to claim that they have never been used before. To echo a well-known writer, very old are all knots. Their age was recently brought home to our minds by the discovery of a clove hitch that had been made in the Valley of the Kings three thousand three hundred vears ago. In comparison with such antiquity mountaineering 1s a thing of yesterday, and the knots are new, at least, in their application to climbing. They have been devised to satisfy the exacting requirements of a pursuit in which life might depend on the security of a knot, and they are now left to the judgment of others in the belief that they will not be rejected without a thorough test, and in the hope that the approval of climbers may make amends for the time and labour devoted to the inquiry.

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Simler’s ‘ Vallesiae Descriptio et de Alpibus Commentarws.’ 141 SIMLER’s ‘ VALLESIAE DESCRIPTIO ET DE ALPIBUS CoMMENTARIUS.’ The History of the De Thou Copy. By J. MONROE THORINGTON. des is a tale of princes, of statesmen, and of lesser men ; of a book and its wandering. Now it has been said that explorers are but destinated vagrants, but even that is an admission of class distinction. Books are also subject to caste: some shabby and never seen except on the outside shelves of book-stalls ; others, rich in morocco and gilt, pass their time in exclusive libraries. Our story has to do with an aristocratic book, and we shall follow a strange path. It was not altogether chance that brought Frangois de Foix to the Pyrenees in the summer of 1555. True, he was the Comte de Candale, and Bishop of Aire, in Gascony, but he was also a mathematician and had endowed a chair at the University of Bordeaux. His zeal in this direction led him to attempt the ascent of the Pic du Midi, with the laudable intention of measuring its height, and, although he did not reach the very top, he appears to have risen higher above the sea-level than any other Old World mountaineer of his generation. Nearly thirty years afterward there came to the south of France a young man, who stopped to take the waters at Kaux- Bonnes, near Pau, then known as the Bains du Béarn. The youth was Jacques-Auguste De Thou, later to achieve fame under Henry IV. through his connexion with the Edict of Nantes. But he was young then, and his stay at the watering- place was rather for pleasure than from necessity. It chanced, however, that M. de Candale was spending his declining years in the neighbouring Chateau Castelnau, and invited De Thou to dine with him. Conversation turned at last on the subject of the possible altitude of the Pyrenees, and the old man related to his guests the events of the ascent years before, thrilling them with his narrative of what took place above the clouds. He told them of the lairs of wild goats, of the nests of eagles, of cold and giddiness in the rarefied air, of the lofty point attained through the aid of grapnels and ladders. De Thou was evidently impressed, for he wrote out the story when he reached home, adding some conclusions of his own that the mountain might contest with Mt. Olympus the distinction

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142 Simler’s‘ Vallesvae Descriptio et de Alpibus Commentarius.’ of being the highest in the world. Then, as now, statesmen were often uncertain with figures. Later on De Thou included the adventure in his monumental ‘ Historia sui Temporis.’ Not long before this, in 1574 to be exact, Josias Simler, a Ziirich professor, wrote a little book. It was called ‘ Vallesiae Descriptio et de Alpibus Commentarius,’ and was the first book ever published that dealt solely with the Alps. The description of the Valais was merely a translation into Latin of portions of the great ‘Chronik’ of Johann Stumpf, an enormous work issued in 1546, containing more than three thousand wood engravings and some of the earliest wood-block maps of Switzerland. In Simler’s commentary on the Alps, for the first time, sound practical advice is given as to the necessary precautions for travel above the snow-line. There are detailed descriptions of many alpine districts, as well as notes on the dangers and difficulties to be met with in the high mountains. ‘T'ravellers are advised to attach to their feet shoes, resembling horse-shoes, with three sharp spikes to counteract the slipperiness of the ice. Alpine sticks and ropes and guides are recommended, as well as spectacles to protect the eyes, and the wanderer is admonished to keep moving and avoid avalanches. When De Thou returned home after some years of travel and began to acquire a library, it is not to be wondered at that the remembrance of M. de Candale’s scramble inspired him to secure this book. De Thou soon had the finest library of his time, including in it many volumes from the Grolier collection, so that it rivalled those of Richelieu and Mazarin. He had not one but several copies of each book he felt a particular affection for, ordering them to be printed on the best paper obtainable, expressly for himself. His bindings are richly beautiful, of the finest leathers, exquisitely designed. He married his first wife, Marie Brabangon, in 1588. During her life all his books were marked with a cypher monogram made up of the superimposed initials I. A. M., standing for Jacques- Auguste, and Marie. ‘The intersections of the A and M form a ®@, Greek for Th (Thou), hence the monogram contains his full initials combined with those of his wife. In this manner he marked the red morocco of Simler’s book, placing the cypher in each panel of the back and emblazoning the sides with his armorial stamp with golden bees. After Marie’s death De Thou changed the arms and the monogram. The famous collection was left to Frangois-Auguste, De Thou’s eldest son by his second wife, Gasparde de Chastre. But

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Simler’s ‘ Vallesiae Descriptio et de Albus Commentarius.’ 148 Frangois came to grief at an early age, and in 1642 was beheaded for conspiring with Cinq Mars against Cardinal Richelieu, the library passing to his brother, Jacques-Auguste, who later took the title of Baron de Meslay. In 1677 the books came to Jacques-Auguste De Thou, abbé de Samer-aux-Bois et de Souillac. Within three years, however, it became difficult for the abbé to maintain it, and the collection was sold, with the exception of a few manuscripts which went to the King’s library, to the celebrated bibliophile Charron, Marquis de Ménars. Although one of his least attractive acts was to marry his own sister, fortune followed Ménars. He derived pleasure from the books for forty years and, in 1706, sold them for the enormous sum of 40,000 livres to Armand-Gaston de Rohan, Bishop of Strasbourg. The bishop bequeathed the library, with other volumes, to his nephew, Charles de Rohan, Prince de Soubise. Soubise was a successful courtier, and, although inefficient as a soldier, became Marshal of France through his friendship with Louis XIV and the favouritism of Madame de Pompadour. It is not probable that he ever read Simler’s book, and, two years after his death in 1787, the huge library was sold, thus dispersing the De Thou collection. At that time the headmaster of Harrow School was Joseph Drury, a man of scholarly attainments. He was thirty-seven years of age at the time of the De Thou sale and appears to have secured some of the volumes. The name of his son is written on the fly-leaf of Simler’s book. The elder Drury continued as headmaster of Harrow until 1805, while during the latter portion of his term his son, Henry Joseph Thomas Drury, was master of the lower school. One of their pupils was Lord Byron, who arrived at Harrow at the age of ten, remaining from the summer of 1801 until October 1805, during which time he distinguished himself more in manly sport and in affairs of the heart than in study. Yet the boy Byron must have read, and read widely. In fact, he himself (in 1807) indicates that he had read or looked through historical books and novels ‘ by the thousand.’ The relation between Byron and the Drurys was evidently a different one from that usually existing between pupil and teachers. Byron speaks most warmly of the elder Drury in a note to ° Childe Harold ’ (canto iv, st. 75), and under the name of Probus in ‘ Childish Recollections,’ and lines On a Change of Masters in ‘ Hours of Idleness.’ In Moore’s ‘ Life of Lord Byron’ are to be found several letters from the poet to his former tutor, the younger Drury,

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144 Simler’s ‘ Vallesiae Descriptio et de Alprtbus Commentarius.’ written in affectionate terms and without much regard to the propriety usually preserved in correspondence with a divine. One likes to think that his schoolmasters may have shown Simler’s little book to Byron—certainly he had the run of their library—and that its contents became the subconscious inspira- tion that led to ‘ Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage,’ and ‘ Manfred.’ The love of highland scenery was already implanted; Byron himself dates it from an excursion to Ballater in 1796. Can it be that from Simler’s book some dim-remembered phrase gave rise to: ‘, .. mountain, dusk, yet clear, Mellowed and mingling, yet distinctly seen, . . .’? Probably this is too much to hope for, and all that one can say safely is that the book and Byron were at Harrow together. The scene changes. In 1783 William Beckford, the wealthy and distinguished amateur in English literature, went to Switzerland on his honeymoon with Lady Margaret Gordon as his bride. In the following year there was published at Lausanne his ’ book ‘ Vathek,’ a tale of the East, which later made a remarkable impression upon Byron. After the death of his wife, Beckford spent some time in travelling on the Continent, ultimately returning to England where he began in 1796 to erect in Wiltshire his magnificent residence, Fonthill Abbey. Financial difficulties, through the loss of two estates, com- pelled him to sell Fonthill in 1822 ; fortunately for him, as the great central tower fell shortly afterward. Beckford settled at Bath, where he occupied himself with building and collecting works of art until his death in 1844. Drury, the younger, master at Harrow, sold his own library in 1827, part of it being acquired by Beckford, then five years established at Bath. A lover of beautiful things, the fine binding may have attracted him; but in any event he secured Simler’s book, which so long before had belonged to De Thou. Beckford’s eldest daughter married the 10th Duke of Hamilton, and his collections remained in the family until 1882, when they were sold at auction. Simler’s book was shortly afterward acquired by the late Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge, who considered it one of the unique volumes in his library at Grindelwald, using it as the basis of his great work, ‘ Josias Simler et Les Origines de 1’Alpinisme jusqu’en 1600.’ Seldom it is that one knows with precision the contemporary

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Niivic Birk iL CONRAD GESNER (1516-1565). (Originals in possession of College of Physicians, Philadelphia.) . =) “ ae 7 ae ae . . ’ . ° ° me S - allesie Descriptio et De Alpibus Commentarius,” in the contemporary unding of De Thou, showing the armorial stamp with golden bees, and the cipher monogram. (Dimensions of cover, 6:5” x 4.)

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A Portrait Medal of Conrad Gesner. 145 owner of a sixteenth-century book; still rarer to be able to trace the successive hands through which it has passed. Because of an old man’s story of his adventure in the Pyrenees this book was purchased by a young statesman, then at the beginning of his career. It belonged to many men, good and bad, of high position and oflow. Some treasured it for the beauty of its binding ; a few, perhaps, may have benefited from its content. It came close to a great poet, and it is pleasant to think that the boy Byron may have looked into it before he himself saw the Alps ! Simler’s book in the Beckford sale brought £1 12s., and since then has largely increased in value. I know, because I bought it myself only the other day. [Norre.—The data on which this paper is based have been gathered from numerous sources: M. de Candale’s attempt on the Pic du Midi d’Ossau is described in Coolidge’s ‘ Simler ’ (p. 59**), and in Gribble’s ‘The Early Mountaineers.’ These books contain chapters on Simler as does also Coolidge’s ‘ Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide-Books.’ The best account of the De Thou library and its successive owners will be found in Guigard’s ‘ Nouvel Armorial du Bibliophile ’ (1890 edit., vol. 2). Additional information on the family of De Thou occurs in the ‘ Bibliothéque Universelle.’ For the Drurys, Byron, and Beckford, see the ‘ Dictionary of National Biography.’ The firm which purchased the Coolidge library segregated a small group of books in fine bindings, among them the De Thou copy of Simler’s work.—J. M. T.] A Portrair MEDAL OF ConRAD GESNER. ConRAD GESNER (Gessner) (1516-65) was a Ziirich physician of great learning, and a prolific writer on zoology, botany, and biblio- graphy. Mountaineers honour his memory because of his ascent of one of the summits of Pilatus,! in 1555, and especially on account of his thrilling letter to Avienus,? which begins: ‘I am resolved, henceforth, most learned Avienus, that, as long as it may please God to grant me life, I will ascend several mountains, or at least 1 Descriptio Montis Fracts sive Montis Pilati (Ziirich, 1555; in the same volume as Gesner’s De Raris et Admirandis Herlis). 2 Epistola ad Jacobum Avienum de Montium Admiratione (Ziirich, 1541 ; prefixed to Gesner’s Libellus de lacte et operibus lactaris). VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. L

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146 The Alpine Club Photographic Exhibition, 1927. one, every year... for the sake of good bodily exercise and of mental delight.’ ® The contemporary medal illustrated is of silver, 3 cm. in diameter, and bears on the obverse ‘ Conradus Gessnerus, M.D.’ 4 with por- trait bust in profile (1) in hat and costume of the period. On the reverse is a quartered coat-of-arms and crest, with the words ‘ Archiat. Prof. Phys. Tigurin’ about the periphery, and ‘ Munific. Aug. 1562.’ Although struck at Augsburg, the medal presumably commemorated his call to the chair of Natural History at Ziirich in 1564. The Gesner medal adds one more portrait to the few which pre- serve the likeness of one who was by far the greatest of the early mountaineers, an outdoor man in a day when the only proper place for a scientist was supposed to be the study ; one, whom, if he could come to life again, any modern mountaineer would be glad to climb with. J. Monroz THORINGTON. —_—_—— THE ALPINE CLUB PHOTOGRAPHIC EXHIBITION, 1927. d her annual exhibition of Alpine photographs was held at the Club Rooms from December 12 to December 81, 1927. The number of exhibits was below the average, but, on the whole, the standard of technique was high. There was, however, a noticeable tendency among a certain portion of exhibitors to produce prints in which the scale of tones was too steep. Quite a number of prints just missed being really good for this reason. Harsh contrast is always easier to obtain than soft, and the secret of avoiding it forms a large part of what is known as ‘ good technique.’ The prints in question would have been far more pleasing if they had been made on a grade of paper more capable of the true repro- duction of the scale of tones of the negative. One or two prints were marred by the presence of excessive grain. We are aware that some people like this, and call it texture—but, unless it is deliberately aimed at, when it becomes a debatable point, it 1s inexcusable. Modern emulsions are so good and so uniform that, given an adequate exposure followed by soft development, a negative 3 Cf. Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide-Books, W. A. B. Coolidge (Longmans, Green & Co., London, 1889), p. 12; and The Early Mountaineers, Francis Gribble (T. Fisher Unwin. London, 1899), p. ol ff. * Annals of Medical History, viii. pp. 360-69; portrait of Gesner, iil. p. 133.

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The Alpine Club Photographic Exhibition, 1927. 147 should result from which prints can be taken to a very high degree of enlargement before grain becomes obtrusive. Mr Henry Speyer contributed two remarkably fine pictures. In ‘ Mont Blanc from above Sallanches "—although it seems that a contrasty paper has been used—the treatment has been so skilful that there 1s nothing harsh in the result; and although Mont Blanc stands out clearly against a very dark sky, it looks distant, even ethereal. The receding planes are well marked, and the heavy belt of trees in the middle fore- ground is well lit by sun and shows considerable detail. There is no trace of spottiness in this, nor in the foreground meadow, as might so easily have been the case with less clever handling. A very effective subject, well chosen and finely treated. Even better is ‘ Evening Light on Monte Rosa from the Cima’ by the same photographer. Mr. Speyer has been fortunate enough to catch a very fine effect, and has used his opportunity to the full. The hghting of the clouds is un- usually interesting, and the whole composition is excellent. In spite of the lack of foreground the mountain seems to stand up, massive and rugged, from the gulf of the valley, giving an impression of immense depth below. . F. §. Smythe showed two very effective prints in ‘Sunset from the Griineckhorn’ and ‘ The Dent d’Hérens.’ The effect secured in the former is magnificent and although the photograph 1s dramatic it is not theatrical, as are so many taken straight into the light. Adequate exposure has given correct tone values ; there is texture and detail in the snow— even in the darkest shadow. The sky, too, is well rendered. These qualities are repeated in ‘ The Dent d’Hérens,’ which is made particularly impressive by the fact that the clouds and shoulder of the mountain are well lit up, while the main mass 18 in deep shadow. A very attractive picture is ‘ The Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, and Finsteraarhorn, from Bachsee,’ exhibited by Mr. W. A. Wright. Faultless technique and artistry have made full use of a fine subject, and the treatment of the reflections in the water of cloud and mountains is restrained and delicate. There is atmosphere in this picture ; a sense of distance and space. ‘Pic Venizelos, Olympus,’ by Boissonnas, exhibited by Mr. G. P. Baker, is most impressive. The composition is excellent and the use of a deep cleft of rock as foreground suggests both height and depth, while clouds floating around the peak give a sense of rugged wilderness.

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148 The Alpine Club Photographic Exhibition, 1927. In ‘ The Parpaner Weisshorn from the Hérnli Hut, Arosa,’ Mr. L. M. BE. Dent has rendered to perfection the beautiful effect of dappled sunlight which is sometimes seen on the flanks of snow mountains and on snow fields. We are bound to say that we consider that this picture would have been more pleasing had it been free from grain—but this characteristic is not obtrusive when viewed from a distance of two or three yards ; and the picture is of ample size to allow this. Dr. J. Monroe Thorington showed a number of pictures interesting chiefly from a topographical point of view, but we consider that his ‘ The Twins, and the Athabaska Gorge, Columbia Ice Field, 19238,’ is among the best photographs in the Exhibition. Composition has been helped by the intro- duction of a shadow (apparently that of a man) to give balance. A clever touch, for the inclusion of the figure itself would have been crude. This picture has shape, simplicity and excellent tone values, and loses nothing by being in miniature. We particularly liked ‘ Festal Day at the Chapel of the Hohe Steigen, Saas-Fee,’ by Mr. Ralph Morrish. It is printed In warm sepia tones which give a fine rendering of the sunlight on the white walls of the chapel, and on the path. The procession has been taken at just the right point, and there is an air of solemnity about the whole picture. One can almost hear the church bell. ‘The King and the Pawn,’ by Mr. Morrish, is a fine repre- sentation of the Matterhorn and has the additional attraction of a well-chosen title. Excellent, too, is ‘ The Bridge over the Visp, leading to Saastal ’ also printed in sepia. ‘The Shrouded Matterhorn,’ by Mr. F. N. Ellis, is a clever reproduction of what we imagine must have been a very fleeting opportunity, and quite apart from its excellent technique it succeeds in presenting a familiar subject in an unconventional light. In this connexion Mr. 8. L. Pearce’s ‘ Matterhorn from the Riffelhorn ’ is noteworthy. We admire the skill which obtained such true tone values and the dis- crimination which selected so effective a view point. An interesting group of photographs was shown by the Rev. A. E. Murray. These photographs, taken in Iceland, are up to the high standard of excellence one would expect from this experienced photographer. Two of them, however, were in our opinion outstanding, namely, ‘ Gothafoss, North Iceland’ (reproduced in the JourNaL) and ‘ Blafells Jokull from Hvitarvatn, Iceland.’’ The former has all the good

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“Phot. E. S. Herbert. ICE-CLIFF ON THE AIGUILLE D’ARGENTIERE.

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The Alpine Club Photographic Exhibition, 1927. 149 qualities that distinguish the best photographs of waterfalls— always a difficult subject—and the latter is a beautifully composed picture—perfect in its scale of tones—giving a great sense of distance. ‘This, in our opinion, is as good a photograph as any in the exhibition. Miss Ulrica R. Dolling’s two contributions ‘ Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg’ and ‘ The Bernina Range’ are proof that harsh contrast is not necessary to convey a sense of sunshine. Technically excellent, these pictures are delightfully soft and full of light. The same remarks apply to Mr. J. Osborne Walker’s ‘Monte Rosa and Lyskamm’ which also has the advantage of some beautiful light clouds—which serve to throw the mountains well back into the distance. We liked Mr. Walker’s ‘ Bertol Path’ for its sound technique and the pleasant story it has to tell. Mr. Arthur Gardner showed amongst others: ‘ Evening in the Létschental’ and ‘ The Matterhorn ’"—both of which will be familiar to readers of his interesting book on mountain photography. The treat- ment of the former is particularly fine, and the warm sepia tones suit the subject admirably. The lighting is perfectly rendered, and it would be difficult to find a better piece of composition. Mr. Gardner’s ‘Matterhorn’ is more con- ventional but it is worthy of mention if only for its sound technique. We did not care for his photograph of ‘ The Ober Gabelhorn from Mountet.’ Mr. Matsukata showed three good pictures in ‘ Grande Ruine,’ ‘ La Meije’ and ‘ Triolet and Col Dolent’ (the latter reproduced in the JouRNAL), but we think they would have been more effective if the negatives had received softer development or, alternatively, if a softer grade of paper had been selected. Miss L. Marion Davidson sent in four attractive pictures of the Dolomite district. There is always a great deal of personality in this photographer's work. Her subjects are well chosen and treated with originality. Our preference lies with ‘Sasso Lungo, Sella and Piz Pordoi’ and ‘ Cimone della Pala, San Martino di Castrozza’; though ‘ The Lang- kofel in Sunset ’ also deserves special mention. There were many other pictures we should like to com- mend: The excellent telephoto of ‘ Mont Blanc from the Tour Noir,’ by Sir William Lister; ‘An Ice Cliff on the Aiguille d’Argentiére ’ (reproduced in the JourNAL), and ‘ The Ober Gabelhorn from the Trifthorn,’ by Mr. E.8. Herbert; ‘Grandes Jorasses from the Couvercle ’ and ‘ Afternoon, Rieder Furka’; * Glacier du Géant and Mont Blanc,’ by Miss H. F. Margaret

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150 In Memoriam. King; ‘ Lyskamm, Monte Rosa, from Pollux,’ by Mr. J. C. Gait; ‘ Aiguille du Roc au Grépon,’ by Miss Nea K. Barnard ; ‘ Mischabelhorner,’ by Mr. Julian A. Osler; * The Bietsch- horn,’ by Mr. Philip H. Pilditch ; ‘ The Summit of the Gross Schreckhorn,’ by Mr. E. Montague Jackson; ‘ Matterhorn from Schwarzsee Path,’ by Miss M. Neve; ‘ The mist climbed slowly putting out the stars,’ by Mr. H. 8. Bullock. Mr. H. R. Williams’s photograph ‘On the Aiguille du Chardonnet’ (reproduced in the JouRNAL) was one of the best figure studies we can remember. The skilful arrangement of the Exhibits was, as usual, carried out by Mr. Sydney Spencer. It is a remarkable fact that in almost every Club there is found a member who is willing to devote considerable time and attention to its service, but we venture to think that the Alpine Club is unusually fortunate in this respect. IN MEMORIAM. ELIOT HOWARD. (1842-1927.) By the death of Eliot Howard at the age of 85, the Club loses one of its rapidly vanishing band of survivors of the pioneering ’60’s. He was elected in 1867, but his career as an active climber was prematurely cut short by a shooting accident by which he lost an eye, and he was thereafter so much troubled by inability to focus properly, especially going downhill, that he had to give up serious expeditions. The youngest son of Robert Howard of Tottenham, he was one of that remarkable circle of men of Quaker origin or connections who did so much to found the traditions of the Club. Kinship, circumstances, and personal charm brought him into more or less intimate association with a number of eminent men of the time such as Sir Edward Fry, Sir Edmund Gosse, Dr. Hodgkin, Sir Alfred Waterhouse, Sir E. B. Tylor among the non-climbers, and F. F. Tuckett, the Mathews, John Ball, Douglas Freshfield, the Buxton cousins, J. H. Fox and others who early became prominent members of the Club. Some of these connections were due to his friendship and subsequent marriage with Charlotte Fox Tuckett, sister of the great ‘F. F. T.’ and also of the brilliant Elizabeth Tuckett, in whose ‘ Zigzagging among Dolomites’ he figured as “K. H.’ Most of his climbing was done with Tuckett in the Eastern Alps, and he wrote an account of their earliest ascent of the Terglou

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ELIOT HOWARD, 1842-1927.

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In Memoriam. 151 (Triglav) in this JouRNAL! in 1869. It is curious to note that he brought the first rucksack from Styria into Switzerland, where it created much interest and was speedily adopted universally. (In these days it is equally curious to recall that his nephew Gerald Fox brought the first pair of ski from Norway to that country only about thirty-seven years ago.) Though cut off from active climbing, he always retained the keenest interest in the mountains, and in a journey round the world with Tuckett in 1891 took a share in founding the New Zealand Alpine Club. He was chairman of Hayward Tyler & Co. Ltd., the London and Luton engineers, but devoted much time to public and philanthropic affairs. He was chairman of more bodies than can be mentioned in a short notice, but one may perhaps note that he was for 49 years a member and for long chairman of the Beacontree bench in Essex, his obiter dicta being a regular feature of the London evening papers on Saturdays. He was also lay-chairman of the Medical Committee of the Church Missionary Society from its inception and an active worker in various religious organizations such as the London City Mission, the Spezzia Mission, etc. His cultured and receptive mind was a storehouse of knowledge, ranging from the practical work of his profession—incidentally he was the oldest member of the Institute of Mechanical Engineers— to ethnological and antiquarian research. He wrote a good deal in an unobtrusive way on antiquarian and religious subjects, his most important publication being ‘ The Eliot Papers,’ which has been widely appreciated both here and in America for its literary charm and historical interest, some of the family records and diaries being contemporary with Pepys and Evelyn. The mainspring of his life was an unswerving devotion to his Christian beliefs and to the public weal. He served his generation well. cag JOHN HERTSLET WAINEWRIGHT. (1848-1927.) By the death of John Hertslet Wainewright on December 11 of last year the Club loses one of its older members, elected in 1875. Born on October 27, 1848, the son of John Wainewright, the last of the Taxing Masters, he was called to the Bar, but as he was then considered to be suffering from heart trouble he was advised to give up all idea of practising and was sent to Homburg, Spa, and other cure resorts. In 1872 he paid his first visit to Switzerland and spent three weeks on the Rigi as an after-cure. Thence he moved to Campfer, paying his first visit to the Engadine, which was to 1° The Terglou and Mangert in Carniola,’ A.J. 4, 315-65.

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152 In Memoriam. become his second home. The air there worked wonders, and to the end of his life he maintained that he felt better there than anywhere else. During this visit he had his first experience of a mountain ascent. A curious expedition constituting a party of eight, including Admiral Horton, Lord Chelsea, Lord Mahon, Dr. Burney Yeo, Wainewright and others, was equipped and pro- visioned almost on the lines of a Himalayan or Arctic expedition and drove to Pontresina for the ascent of Piz Languard, while their families and friends waited tense with excitement for their return ! In after years when he conducted excursions up the Languard or over the Diavolezza two or three times a weck, he often smiled at the recollection of this historic occasion. One day, however, during a walk through the woods past the Statzersee he had noticed a friendly brown village lying on the other side of the river shining in the afternoon sun and at once decided that this was the place for him. He moved his quarters first to the Hotel Roseg and later to the Kronenhof, and from this time onwards Pontresina remained unrivalled in his affections as a summer resort. In the Upper Engadine and neighbourhood he ascended all the principal peaks with Hans and Christian Grass and other leading guides, while in later years he conducted almost daily expeditions up the Piz Languard, over the Diavolezza, or on to the Morteratsch Glacier. These expeditions are remembered by his numerous friends as their first introduction to snow and ice, and to many he appeared as the father of the place. He was ever ready with advice to the inexperienced, and new-comers to the district found him a mine of accurate information on all expeditions and ascents in the region ; indeed one of the leading characteristics of his mind was his retentive memory and extreme accuracy regarding details of old ascents. Certainly the happiest times of his life were spent in the mountains. His first winter in the Alps was spent at Samaden in 1875 at the Hotel Bernina with those admirable old-fashioned hosts the Fanconis, and for many years he was a constant winter visitor to the ‘Kulm’ at St. Moritz. He made several winter ascents, including the first ascent of the Piz Palii in winter on February 27, 1890,1 which occupied 174 hours, with his friend, the still active Major W. H. Bulpett. In 1877 he visited Zermatt and climbed the Matterhorn, Lyskamm, and several other peaks with Francois Dévouassoud, and in 1878 spent the early summer at Grindelwald with Francois, ascending the Jungfrau, Wetterhorn, and Schreckhorn, but was prevented from carrying out his full programme by a severe attack of Bclatica. In September of the same year, however, he visited Tyrol with his wife and Frangois, ascending many of the peaks then in vogue. He returned to Tyrol with his brother Benjamin a few years later, and again climbed at Zermatt in 1879. 1 AJ. 15, 153.

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In Memoriam. 158 In the Upper Engadine he appears to have climbed practically every peak except the Piz Scerscen and made expeditions in the neighbouring Arosa, Bergiin and Bregaglia districts. He made the traverse of the Giissfeldt Sattel for the first time in one day. He also travelled in the Italian Alps and ascended Monte Viso. Wainewright, though not robust and never thoroughly at home in rock-climbing, was a splendid walker and excelled on snow peaks, where he revelled in soft snow, often to the discomfort of his com- panions, including the guides. As a rule, he stuck to the usual mountain routes, but in 1889 made a variation of the route previously followed up the Piz Roseg, which is the route now usually taken. He was a true lover of the Alps, and there can be no doubt that he owed his improved health and comparative longevity to his frequent sojourns in the Engadine both in summer and winter. E. J. G. [I first met Mr. ‘Jack’ Wainewright at St. Moritz during the winter of 1895-96. He had then given up mountaineering ‘ officially,’ but was still an indefatigable walker. It was his practice, during that and many following winters, to walk in the morning to Pontresina, which in those days had only a Gast Stube (1.e. one general sitting-room in the Kronenhof) open in winter, returning to St. Moritz for lunch. Immediately after his meal he walked to Silvaplana and back. This was his invariable daily habit, fine or snow—a distance of some 20 miles, since at that time only the main roads were open. He always carried a prodigious alpenstock some 10 ft. long and was burned a rich brown by exposure. He did all in his power to encourage winter mountaineering—of which pastime he may be said to have been a pioneer—among all his numerous friends and acquaintances, but his success was not great. 1 well remember his walking up with the late Rev. Cecil Watson, in boots and through deep snow, to the old Boval Club Hut (an awful hovel) to greet me on my return from the third winter ascent of Piz Bernina in 1897. In fact, there were few winter ascents that I had the luck to accomplish in the years 1896-99 when I was not greeted at some portion of the descent by the slight active figure with its quaint gaiters and formidable bdton ! I last saw him at Pontresina during the so-called ‘ August’ of 1924. I shall long remember the warmth of his greeting—and his remarks on the climate even of his beloved Upper Engadine. He, Mumm and [ nearly reached the summit of Piz Languard in a blizzard. I do not think that it was Wainewright or Mumm who refused to continue, but Moritz Inderbinen had wisely turned back long before. If in no sense 8 great mountaineer, there was no truer member of the Alpine Club or lover of the Alps than the old friend whose face Pontresina and the Gredig family will sorely miss.—E. L. S.]

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154 In Memortam. ARNOLD LOUIS MUMM. (1859-1927.) ARNOLD Louis Mumm was born in London in 1859, the second son of Julius Mumm, of London, Reims and Cologne. His father was at that time one of the proprietors of a famous brand of champagne. His mother was an Irish lady, a daughter of a Dublin solicitor. After the death of her husband she made her home in England, where her four boys were educated. She had for many years a house in Hyde Park Street where Arnold Mumm lived with her till her death in 1917, when he set up for himself a bachelor establishment in Gloucester Terrace, a more remote part of Tyburnia. Arnold Mumm’s elder brother was sent to Harrow, but he and his next younger brother went to Eton as Collegers, and the youngest as an Oppidan. In both aspects, in work and in sport, Mumm’s Eton career was a distinguished one. He won, in 1874, the Prince Consort’s German prize, he was in the Select for The Newcastle in 1877 and 1879, and when he left was Captain of the School. Both in the Field and at the Wall—the Collegers’ game—he was a noted football player. He also became joint editor of the Eton College Chronicle. In 1879 he went up to Oxford where he won a scholarship at Corpus. He followed up this successful start by getting three Firsts, in Classical Moderations, Literae Humaniores, and Jurisprudence. They were won—an Oxford contemporary writes—‘ with some ease.’ A year or two later he stood for a Fellowship at All Souls; and it was currently reported that the Examiners had some difficulty in making up their minds between Mumm, the present Vice-Chancellor, and the present Bishop of Durham. Despite his successes in the schools Mumm found time and energy for sport and was one of his College football team during a season when it remained unbeaten. On leaving Oxford Mumm came to London to study for the Bar, and in July 1886 was admitted in Lincoln’s Inn, where he read in the chambers of Mr. C. Ackworth James, proposing to practise as an equity draftsman and conveyancer. He became a sound lawyer, and might have made himself a practice had he cared todo so. But he never laid himself out seriously for legal work. He had two serious impediments in his path: a sufficient private fortune and an exceedingly retiring disposition which was coupled throughout life with a complete absence of ambition. One who knew Mumm well at this period writes: ‘I have never met with anyone of Mumm’s really great knowledge on many subjects, who was so modest about it. In fact, I doubt if he himself ever appreciated how wide his range of knowledge was, although everyone else who saw much of him was constantly impressed by it. He seemed totally devoid of self-assertion or ambition. With his wonderful industry and critical power, he could, I believe, had he wished it, have become prominent in many ways: he preferred not

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In Memoriam. 155 to be so, and probably with his temperament it was to his own greater happiness.’ Having failed to find the pursuit of the Law congenial, Mumm had the happy thought of looking for occupation in literature: but it was to the practical and critical side of it, rather than the creative, - that he turned. In 1894 he joined the publishing firm of his relative, Mr. Edward Arnold, and took part in its management for many years—until 1925—both as a Partner and Reader. In many of the situations of Jife Mumm was inclined to play the part of a sympathetic but detached spectator. To his friends and associates he may have at times seemed too reluctant to accept the challenge of circumstance ; too ready in everyday affairs to cultivate a philosophic calm. Yet his habitual reticence was in great part the result of a fastidious intellect, of a desire to weigh the matter in hand before he discussed a proposal or dealt with an argument. With not a few of the habits and tastes of the painstaking and sedentary scholar and critic, Mumm kept up to the end a keen zest - for sport and out of door pursuits. These two cross elements in his character remained constant. His intimate friends both at College and in after days were drawn mainly from literary and intellectual circles : but he was also an excellent shot and a good rider to hounds, and he became in turn a bold and persistent mountaineer and an adventurous traveller. It is in the latter qualities that we have to commemorate him here. The earlier portion of Mumm’s Alpine career may best be indicated by quoting the table of his qualifications put before the committee of the Club on his election in 1889. It shows that he had begun to climb at an early age, fourteen, and that he had in successive summers piled up a list which, for the length of the period covered, the variety in the districts visited, and also for the progressive character of the climbs—passes as well as peaks—might well serve as a model for future candidates. On these grounds, as well as for its personal interest, it seems worth quoting here in full. QUALIFICATIONS : 1873 Titlis. 1874 Piz Corvatsch, Piz Morteratsch. 1876 Piz Gliischaint. 1877 Breithorn (Zermatt), Cima di Jazzi, Monte Rosa, Zinal-Roth- horn, Alphubeljoch. 1879 Monte Tofana, Cristallo Pass, Marmolata, Bildstockljoch. 1881 Beichgrat, Petersgrat, Jungfrau (Mé6nchjoch), Weissmies, Adler Pass, Cols d’Hérens and de Bertol, Pas de Chévres, Col de Mont Rouge, Col de Sonadon, Col du Géant. 1884 Isenthal to Engelberg over Griessen Glacier, Wendenjoch, Thierberg, Sustenlimmi, Galenstock—Triftlimmi. 1886 Lower peak of Balmhorn, Unter Gabelhorn, Rimpfischhorn, Col Durand, Moming Pass, Wellenkuppe.

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156 In Memoriam. 1887 Lo Besso, Grand Cornier, Rothhorn (from Mountet to Zermatt), Matterhorn, Riffelhorn from Glacier, Ober Gabelhorn, Col de Valpelline, Mt. Brule, Col de Chermontane, Grand Combin. 1888 Fletschhorn, Nadelhorn, Weissthor, Col delle Loccie, Lysjoch, Grivola. In the summer following his election to the Club, Mumm set to work in earnest in Dauphiné, where he climbed the Sommet des Rouies, the Barre des Ecrins, the Pelvoux, the Aiguille du Plat and the Meije. <A long gap followed till in 1902 and 1904 he made a few minor expeditions in eastern Switzerland. He was one of the principal authorities on the Tédi Group. In 1905 he surprised his friends by accepting an invitation to join Mr. Freshfield in the expedition to the Mountains of the Moon, described in the ALPINE JOURNAL (vol. 23). This African adventure, though unsuccessful in its main object, afforded Mumm some sport, and it also roused in him anew ambition to combine exploration with climbing. Accordingly, in 1907, we find him joining General Bruce and Dr. Longstaff in an exploration of the Garhwal district of the Himalaya, in the course of which Dr. Longstaff succeeded in making the first ascent of Trisul (23,400 ft.). Mumm gave the world a full and lively account of the party’s doings, their successes and troubles in his chief contribution to mountaineering literature, a portly volume entitled Five Months in the Himalaya. Dr. Longstaff writes — thus of Mumm’s share in what proved a very arduous campaign : ‘What struck me most during the whole of our trip was Mumm’s extraordinary patience and unfailing good temper under discomfort, which was often aggravated in his case by indifferent health. It was wonderful how he endured those awful two nights and three days when we were weather-bound at our high camp (20,000 ft.), on the occasion of our first abortive attempt on Trisul. Never once did he complain, and he stuck it out to the last possible moment on the chance of pushing home the attack, though his guide Inderbinen and three of our Gurkhas had given in after the first night.’ To Moritz Inderbinen, his frequent companion in his many visits to the Far West, as well as in his African, Himalayan and Alpine travels, Mumm was warmly attached. Moritz was to Mumm an almost indispensable fellow-traveller, a friend as much as a guide. Moritz had seen something of the world in his youth; he had spent several years in the household of Dr. Butler at Harrow; he had married an English wife. On the mountains he was a capable rather than a brilliant leader. But he possessed a rare quality among Alpine peasants: he could enjoy distant travel, and make himself popular among all sorts and conditions of men. He died two years ago, aged seventy; Mumm’s tribute to him will be found in our pages (‘ A.J.’ 38, 300-2). In all these distant expeditions Mumm proved himself a most capable traveller ; in the more serious trials of camp life, whether in

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In Memoriam. 157 the pathless jungles of Ruwenzori, or among the gorges and glaciers of Garhwal, he was an enduring, helpful and unselfish comrade. He had nerves; but he kept them as a rule under strict control. It needed some sudden catastrophe, such as the sight of the sack con- taining his climbing boots being dropped by a porter and swept away by an African torrent in flood ; or a strange incident, such as an irrepressible monkey dancing at midnight among the mosquito curtains of his bed at Mombasa, to modify his habitual attitude of mitts sapientia and stir him to vigorous language or retributive action. Safe home from the Himalaya, Mumm found a less strenuous field in which to indulge his lately-formed passion for the wilderness. He turned his steps to the Far West, where he made himself a welcome guest in the summer camps of the Canadian Alpine Club. We find him there repeatedly in the summers of 1909, 1910, 1911 and 1913. He climbed and explored in the Rockies and Selkirks vigorously and in every direction. In 1909, in company with Mr. Amery and Mr. Hastings, he made an expedition to the then remote Mount Robson, of which he wrote an account for the Canadian Alpine Journal (see also ‘A.J.’ 25). After a long interval caused by the War, when he served as a Special Constable, he returned to Banff in 1920. In 1921 he reverted to the Alps and climbed the Dent Blanche and the Dent du Midi among other expeditions, his last great climbs. In 1922 he set out alone on a voyage to the Antipodes. After paying what proved a farewell visit to the many hosts and climbing companions he had found in Canada he crossed the Pacific to visit his old Oxford friend, Sir Charles Eliot, the British Ambassador in Japan. There even Mumm failed to evade publicity; he was welcomed by the local press as ‘ a wide-world-renowned mountaineer.’ He was even greeted by an interviewer as ‘a benefactor’ on the ground that while Secretary to our own Club he ‘ had been so good as to act as midwife at the birth of that now flourishing body the Japanese Alpine Club.’ Mumm proceeded to climb Fujiyama and to make several ex- peditions among the so-called Japanese Alps. Sailing on to New Zealand he spent four weeks at the Hermitage, viewed the glaciers, and ‘ almost completed ’ the ascent of Mt. Hamilton. He read a paper to the Club on this journey under the title of “A Mixed Bag’ (‘ A.J.’ 88). In the autumn of 1923 Mumm was again in the Alps celebrating by its repetition his earliest ascent, that of the Titlis, made fifty years before. This was followed next year by a few minor climbs in the Adula and Bernina groups; but 1925 was apparently a blank in his climbing record. It may be added that his taste for travel, once excited, grew and became independent of mountain climbing. He went more than once to Morocco ; and he joined his friend Sir Alexander Kennedy

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158 In Memoriam. in a visit to Petra, with the object of making an air survey of the ruins. This was secured by the help of the Government of Pales- tine Survey (‘ A.J.’ 88, 138). In 1926 while travelling in Tyrol with some old friends, Mumm’s powers suddenly failed him. He had probably through life taxed to the full his physical force, and on his return to England he was warned to spare himself. Last summer he set out on a voyage to the Far East in company with Sir Charles Eliot. At Hong Kong he became seriously unwell and had to go for a time into the local hospital. He recovered, however, sufficiently to start on the return voyage alone. He wrote to the Club that he hoped to be home in time to attend our Annual Dinner. But on assembling for the Meeting we were met by the sad news that our old colleague had succumbed to his illness in the Bay of Biscay and died and been buried at sea on December 2. His death is felt as a personal grief by his numerous friends ; both in our own Club and also in the Canadian Club, in which he took much interest, it will be reckoned as a serious loss. It remains only to add a few lines as to Mumm’s official con- nexion with the Alpine Club. He was elected on the Committee in 1899, and served as Secretary from 1901 to 1905. From 1919 to 1922 he was one of the Vice-Presidents. It was due entirely to his characteristic diffidence that he did not succeed to the Presidency. He recognized and probably exaggerated what he felt his natural disqualifications for the post. As Secretary his benign and cheerful presence lent a grace even to the most formal of ‘ Proceedings.’ He could drop, no one better, obiter dicta, often humorous and always fitted to the occasion. But an after-dinner speech addressed to an audience of 150 presented itself to his imagination as a task alien equally to his mentality and his physical powers. But if Mumm shrank from the duties of the Presidential Chair it was not from any lack of devotion to the welfare of the Club. His interest in its affairs grew with years, until it culminated in his under- taking the onerous work of compiling by his unassisted labour and at his own cost a detailed Register of Members of the Alpine Club. The two volumes already published comprise the records of members elected up to 1876 inclusive. He has left a third volume ready for the Press. The task was a difficult one, for the material was widely scattered and often hard to come at. But Mumm found in it a congenial occupation and he gave himself up to it with unflagging energy. The writer of this note has to thank several of Mr. Mumm’s con- temporaries and companions for much of the material embodied in the preceding pages. D. W. F.

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In Memoriam. 159 ROBERTSON LAMB. (1865-1927.) To many of us it is difficult to realize that Robertson Lamb has answered his last summons and left his comrades to mourn; for he seemed to have learned the secret of perennial youth. ‘A man’s age,’ he used to say, ‘should not be reckoned by his years, but by his feelings, and the condition of his mind and body.’ And, indeed, measured by his own standard, Lamb died a very young man. To the last he retained his youthful exuberance and zest in living, and attributed it all to the hills for the health and inspiration they gave him. No opportunity of a walk on the hill-sides, a scramble among the fells, or an arduous climb on crag or mountain was ever allowed to pass unheeded. Only four days before the commencement of his last short illness he formed one of a party to climb the ‘ Devil’s Kitchen’; and he climbed it well, without fatigue—in his old sure and cheery manner. It was at a comparatively late period in his life that Lamb learned to climb. Though always devoted to healthy forms of out-door exercise, he was well advanced in the ‘ thirties’ when, for the first time, he joined a climbing party at Wasdale, and at once realized that he had found the recreation at which he would excel. The little half-decked sailing yacht was sold, and thenceforth his eyes were lifted ever into the hills. He soon became a well-known figure at Wasdale, Pen-y-Gwryd and Sligachan, and other climbers often referred to him as too venturesome and a dare-devil; and they were wrong. Lamb was certainly quite fearless, but he knew his own strength and never strained it to breaking-point. And, more- over, he never willingly led a really difficult part of a climb without first making sure that the rest of his party was safely anchored in case of any accident to himself. He spent several guideless seasons in the Alps—in the Dauphiné, Tarentaise, Central Alps, Oberland and Engadine. Perhaps the most noteworthy of his achievements were: Traverse of La Meije (1910), Mont Pourri (1911), Gross Simmelistock and other peaks of the Engelhérner (1913), Z’mutt aréte of the Matterhorn (1921). On the British hills two feats stand out from his innumerable climbs: the second ascent (with a new variation) of the N.W. face of Pillar, and the first ascent (not yet repeated, except by himself) of the gorge between the 3rd and 4th Pinnacles of Sgurr-nan-Gillean. Robertson Lamb was a successful Liverpool merchant, and at one time councillor of his native borough of Bootle. He was always thoughtful of the interests of his employees, and his kindly and lovable nature endeared him to a host of friends, whose number extends far beyond the circle of his comrades on the hills. J. M. D.

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160 In Memoriam. MISS KATHERINE RICHARDSON. (1854-1927.) THE Editor of the ALPINE JouRNAL! did me a great honour when he asked me to write something about Miss Katherine Richardson, but I am sorry that I am not better qualified to do full justice to the climbing career of one who in the ’nineties had eclipsed all other women mountaineers, yet who, thanks to her modesty and beautiful character, had never aroused a trace of envy in any one of them. Miss Richardson had already a magnificent series of ascents to her credit before I began to climb, and as the earlier of my chief ascents were made in winter it was a long time before I had the honour of meeting her. But I often heard of her doings through her famous guide, Emile Rey, and my own guide, Edouard Cupelin, and read of them in Alpine literature, so that before the red-letter day for me arrived when we met face to face I had conceived a great admiration for her both as a woman and a climber. From that time onwards, though we rarely saw each other, we were never quite out of touch, and several of her neatly written, perfectly expressed letters lie before me, the last of which reached me when I was organizing the British Empire Fund towards the Restoration of Reims Cathedral, in which she took keen interest. Miss Richardson was born in 1854, and during the eleven seasons she spent in the Alps she made 116 first-class ascents and 60 minor ones, a number of the latter without guides. I owe many details of her career to an article in La Montagne of December 1927, written by Mademoiselle Mary Paillon, with whom Miss Richardson had resided for many years. Mademoiselle Paillon has been a friend of mine for nearly as long a period. After ascending several of the less important of the Engadine peaks in 1871, Miss Richardson returned there and in 1879 crossed the three summits of Piz Palii, thus making the first of her many notable new climbs or combinations. In 1882 she accomplished a remarkable tour de force, ascending the Rothhorn (16 hours, including halts from Zinal to Zermatt), the Weisshorn, Monte Rosa, and the Matterhorn (18 hours up and down from Zermatt, including halts) in eight days. The times of all her ascents show how quick she was on the mountains, and this was due to the excellence of her climbing and not to any special attempt to break records. In 1888 Miss Richardson made the ascent of the Aiguille de Bionnassay and crossed the aréte thence to the Dome du Goiter, the first time that this had been accomplished. Up to then many experienced climbers had considered the feat impossible. For a 1 As one of the two most distinguished lady mountaineers of the time, it is most fitting that Mrs. Le Blond should have acceded, so kindly, to my request.—E. L. 8.

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In Memoriam. 161 long time the party had to progress along the narrow ridge a cheval, and during the climb, which took 16 hours 10 minutes actual going, nearly an hour was lost owing to an enforced rest due to the fatigue of the guide Bich. Two days later Miss Richardson climbed all five peaks of the Aiguille des Grands Charmoz, and the same season had the great satisfaction of being the first lady to reach the summit of La Meije. In connection with this ascent Mademoiselle Paillon relates an amusing anecdote. It seems that while at Chamonix Miss Richardson saw a paragraph in a paper to the effect that an Englishwoman had arrived at La Bérarde with the intention of attempting the ascent of the Meije. As Miss Richardson had made her plans for some other climbs before going to Dauphiné she could not hurry off there immediately, but as soon as she had accomplished what she had intended she started for La Bérarde, feeling very anxious lest a peak which she had set her heart on being the first lady to ascend should have been wrested from her. Wondering who the enterprising Englishwoman could be, Miss Richardson found when she arrived that she had been chasing her own shadow, for the lady in question was herself ! Not only was Miss Richardson the first lady to climb the Meije, but she was the first person to do so from La Bérarde without sleeping out. She left her hotel at 9 p.m., and, halting for two hours on the rocks to await daylight, reached the summit at 7.30 a.m. and was back at the village at 5.30 p.m. Two days later she crossed Les Ecrins, again making her start from the hotel and taking 15 hours from door to door. In 1889 Miss Richardson ascended the Aiguille de la Za by a new route up the W. face overlooking Arolla. The same season her wonderful endurance was shown in the following five expeditions accomplished in six days: Mont Blanc de Seilon, Pointe de Vouasson, Dent Perroc, Pigne d’Arolla by a new route, and the traverse of the Aiguilles Rouges, en col. But this series of climbs was excelled the same year by the ascents of the Aiguille Verte, the Aiguille de Taléfre, and the two peaks of the Dru, the three expedi- tions being made in five days. The latter climb was done for the first time from the Petit Dru to the Grand Dru (August 1) and necessitated at that period the presence of two parties on the mountain at the same time who should arrive from opposite directions, the one party pulling the other up the vertical slabs of the Grand Dru, and subsequently being let down by them. Miss Richardson’s party consisted of herself and the guides Emile Rey and Jean Baptiste Bich, while the other was an English party, that of Messrs. Nash and Williams, with Frangois Simond, Frédéric Payot, and Edouard Cupelin. All left the Montenvers at the same time and arrived on their respective summits within five minutes of each other. When Miss Richardson reached the top of the wall of the Grand Dru, their rope was thrown down to the others, but it caught in the rocks and the latter party had to content themselves with a portion VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. M

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162 In Memoriam. of it which they managed to cut off. This delayed their descent and they were obliged to spend the night on the mountain. Miss Richardson regained the Montenvers at 10.15 P.M. The following year (1890) Miss Richardson, the day after ascending the Lyskamm, crossed Pollux to Zermatt, making the first descent by the N. face, and the same season she made the first ascent of the Aiguille du Chardonnet by a lady and by a new route. Miss Richardson and Mademoiselle Paillon were together on the Southern Aiguille d’Arves, till then unclimbed by a lady, and the former insisted that her friend should step ahead and so be actually the first to reach the summit. In 1893 they made the third ascent of the eastern peak of the Meije and the first by ladies. The last climb made together by these two ardent lovers of the mountains was that of the Pelvoux. Mademoiselle Paillon’s eyesight had begun to trouble her, and a slip on an ice slope was the result of imperfect vision, so after that she gave up first-class climbing and Miss Richardson insisted on doing the same. A peak in Dauphiné was called after her by Monsieur Maurice Paillon, and when she heard of it her surprise was great ! Like not a few great mountaineers, Miss Richardson had many interests and excelled in various pursuits. She was a good musician, an artist of no mean powers and a delightful companion, and so modest that except for short records in Alpine periodicals no accounts of her achievements were ever written by her for publication. She passed away at Oullins (Rh6ne) on August 20, 1927, under the roof of that friend to whom she had been as a sister for so many years. Miss Richardson joined the Ladies’ Alpine Club, on my invitation, very soon after it was formed, and she was our Vice-President for France. We mourn her loss very deeply. E LEB ALFRED SIMOND. (1851-1927.) On December 2, 1927, Alfred Simond passed away at the age of 76. He was one of a family of guides well known to habitués of Chamonix some forty years or so ago, and his elder brother Francois, who first ascended the Grépon from the S., is still alive and over 80 years old. Both gave up climbing somewhat early in life, and took over from the Tairraz family, somewhere about the year 1888, the Montenvers Hotel and Chapeau restaurant, on lease from the Commune of Chamonix, and held it until the War broke out. Alfred was in charge at the Montenvers and Francois managed the ‘Chapeau, and therefore Alfred will be remembered by many mem- bers rather as an innkeeper than as a guide. But he was really

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MALNIM NI OHAOTVE ‘LC6I- 181 ‘INOWIS GawTTV

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New Expeditions. 1638 more than that, for to the climbing fraternity at the Montenvers he was the kindest and keenest and most helpful of friends. Nothing was too much trouble for him, either as regards finding @ guide or discussing an expedition, and he was as pleased as the climber himself if the expedition resulted in success. Occasionally he would desert his hotel and join one for a climb, and if back in time for table d’héte, you would see him attending to his duties as courteous as ever, and few would guess that he had probably started at 2 a.m., and had had a long and arduous day. The late Sir Edward Davidson referred to his climbing powers in ‘A.J.’ 25, 57, and I can thoroughly endorse what Christian Klucker told Sir Edward, for Simond was, I think, the neatest rock climber I have ever had the good fortune to climb with. In August 1923 I went down to Lavancher and called on him at his house to which he had retired, and I shall never forget his pleasure at meeting me again and talking over old times. So another old guide has passed away, and there are many of us who feel that we have lost a friend who contributed in no small way to our pleasure and happiness in our scrambles in the Monten- vers district during his long sojourn at that unique hotel. G. H. M. NEW EXPEDITIONS. Mont Blanc Group. CAPUCIN DU REQUIN, 3047 m. = 10,097 ft., Vallot. August 4, 1927. The guides V. Hugonnet, Alfred Couttet, Marcel Bozon and Edouard Ravanel. From the Refuge du Requin, cross the great adjacent snow slope towards the N.E. and clamber on to the Capucin’s rocky ridge at the lowest depression. Climb the awkward crest for some 150 ft., and then traverse by a descent on the right towards a gully ; go up its left branch to an overhang which is turned with difficulty to the right. Eventually the crest is regained and followed to near the base of the summit aiguille. Go up a rock outcrop on the face by a difficult chimney and, from the platform thus reached, throw a string by means of a weight over the top; the rope is then attached and drawn gently over the top, when you swarm by it up to the summit, which affords comfortable room for four persons (?3 hours). From La Montagne, 1927, p. 342. AIGUILLE DE Roc pu Grépon [Mummery’s ‘ Crag on the Grépon ’], 3409 m. = 11,187 ft., Vallot. August 6, 1927. Miss Miriam O’Brien with Alfred Couttet and Georges Cachat. Leaving Mont- envers at 02.20, party took the route of the Grépon by the Mer de Glace face (‘ Red Tower’). Halt on first platform above Glacier de

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164 New Expeditions. Trélaporte, 05.45. Steering towards ‘ Red Tower,’ party crossed couloir, descending from Bréche du Roc—falling stones. Bearing diagonally towards the left by broken rocks, they attained a series of broad terraces immediately below the slabs of the first con- spicuous tooth on the buttress falling from the A. de Roc and form- ing the edge of the main Couloir de Roc-Grépon. Leaving terraces at 07.45, a short traverse to the left brought them to a long and narrow gully leading up to the watershed and behind the afore- mentioned conspicuous tooth. Mount the gully by its true left edge for some 75-100 ft.; next traverse to its right edge and, by slabs, attain the head of the gully marked by a gap in the buttress, just behind the tooth. A traverse to the left by a narrow ledge is followed by a chimney. Turning to the right, the party climbed straight up for about 120 ft. by difficult slabs and cracks; next, traversing first right and then left, they arrived on the crest of the smooth buttress forming the margin of the couloir descending from between the A. de Roc and the Bec d’Oiseau (3417 m., Vallot). Climb thecrest of the buttress to the base of the conspicuous chimney below the summit. This is the cruz of the ascent. Climb this exposed and narrow chimney, some 120 ft. high, to a smal! platform whence the face of the A. de Grépon first becomes visible. Climbing up & few feet, a rope was thrown over a boss, and, by an awkward swing and scramble, the party attained the diminutive summit, 11.20. Descent in bad weather by the same route, 12 rappels, to Montenvers, 20.10. Difficulties comparable to the Mer de Glace face of Grépon, but less fatiguing. Ascent repeated on August 13 by three Anglo-French ‘ mixed’ parties. From G. H. M., Annuaire, 1928, pp. 31-35. [For a view of the A. de Roc see ‘A.J.’ 38, facing 267, and Mummery, facing p. 150. ] AIGUILLE DU CHARDONNET, 3822 m. = 12,540 ft., B.I.K. By the S. face. July 31, 1927. C. Dévouassoud and O. 8. Crouan. From the upper Chardonnet moraine, follow the great couloir bending E. to W.; from its head turn left, N., and climb by the glacier-polished rocks of a rib, on either slope, to a great tower. Turn the tower to the left, descend to the right (ascending) by a little gully. Next climb straight up by the left bank of an ice-chimney ; finally, by easier slabs, attain the crest of the rock-rib. Follow its snowy and corniched crest to the top. Conditions very bad. Times: Jardin, dep. ; . 02.45 Moraine. : . : ; ; . 04.40 Head of couloir . . ode e : . 07.00 Summit. : : . : : . 12.30 From G, H. M., Annuaire, 1928, pp. 43-44.

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Phot. H. R. Williams. ON THE AIGUILLE DU CHARDONNET.

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New Expeditions. 165 Bernese Oberland. JUNGFRAU, 4166 m. = 13,670 ft. Direct ASCENT OF THE S. FACE. November 6, 1927. Herr Ernst Gertsch with Fritz Fuchs of Wengen. ee Se ao eae. 3 The line from the base is Herr Gertsch’s 1927 route, the other is the possible alternative. [This is probably the last possible route of the many that have been made up this mountain. The S. face viewed from the Ebnefluh or Gletscherhorn looks prodigious. The possibility of its ascent has only been recently recognized. In 1924 it was proposed to ascend the Rottalsattel couloir as far as the point where it bends

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166 New Expeditions. away to the right and from there to traverse out on the S. face of the Jungfrau immediately under the great black cliff which extends right across the upper part of this face and to overcome this cliff at its earliest vulnerable point. This route would be safe, as the couloir in the early morning can be trusted and the great black cliff would protect a party on the traverse. It should not take above 6 to 7 hours. The exposure to stonefall on Herr Gertsch’s route would be avoided and the time would be less. Possibly the ascent of the big rock cliff could be made to the E. of the line they followed. A careful examination in 1924 showed a sort of gateway with huge rock gate-posts. This passage should ‘ go’ and not be steep. It is seen on the photograph as a white line, almost under the summit. The route to be now described is obviously a far finer expedition and lies, from almost the foot of the Rottalsattel couloir, over completely new ground. I am indebted to my friends Dr. Lauper and Herr Othmar Gurtner ‘for marked photographs, and the latter is kind enough to send me a copy of a letter from Herr Gertsch himself from which the present account is taken. Herr Gertsch, his brother and Fritz Fuchs are already known by their brilliant ascent in 1926 of the Rotbrett aréte (‘ A.J.’ 88, 317- 321), while Fuchs is the son of a guide who, in his time, ranked high in the Alpine world. I wonder what the spirit of old Ulrich Lauener says at this overrunning of the stupendous walls of his Rottal !— ‘A.J.’ 80, 315.] Herr Gertsch’s letter reads in rough translation : ‘I had studied the route last spring during a ski tour up the Ebnefluh and formed an idea of its possibility. Fuchs studied the route from the Rottalhorn and thought the same. The splendid weather encouraged us to go up to the Rottal hut, where we arrived at 1 p.M.on November 5. We saw at once that the conditions were the very best. Thanks to the continuous fine weather of the last two weeks, the whole S. face was wonderfully dry, and as the sun was now too weak to melt much snow we saw hardly any of the great icicles which usually hang from the upper rocks. These, in my opinion, form the great danger in summer, inasmuch as the face catches the sun very early and consequently icicles break off all the morning and carry stones with them. ‘ At this time of year we had nothing to fear from visitors to the Jungfrau who might also throw stones; thus objective dangers could hardly be less. We looked at our route with a Zeiss, and followed next day the selected line with very slight variation. ‘The weather was marvellous and the night a regular September one. The morning (November 6) was of rare magnificence, no wind, not cold, not a cloud. ‘ Too early a start was inadvisable, so we left the hut at 5.45 and at dawn we started up the face W. of the Rottalsattel couloir. The route can be followed on the marked card. We had four bad places

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New Expeditions. 167 to overcome : two over-exposed and very smooth slabs, one a much worn avalanche shoot, and the last and worst a long and very steep chimney with many chock-stones, often loose. ‘ Already in the early morning falling stones threatened us. We naturally avoided the exposed places as much as possible, but the constant buzzing all day, demanding most sustained attention, was tiring to the nerves. ‘We reached the summit at 5.15 just as the sun was setting, and descended to the Jungfraujoch. The expedition is a fine one, but neither of us wants to repeat it. We had, as stated, the best condi- tions. To show you how fine and warm it was, we never put on gloves until the top of the big chimney half an hour below the top.’ [The vertical height of this face above the foot of the Rottalsattel couloir must approach 1200 metres.] J.P.F. FINSTERAARHORN, 4275 m. = 14,026 ft. By the entire} S.E. aréte. August 4, 1927. Herren O. Hug, F. Ubersax, O. Schwarz, and R. Wyss. The aréte mounts very steeply from the Gemsliicke (Rothorn- sattel) in roof-like slabs to the first conspicuous tower, 3597 m., then sinks in a snow slope to a deep gap N.W. of this point. The O. Hug.) Tue S.E. ARETE oF THE FINSTERAARHORN. ridge now bends over three defined teeth separated by deep notches— the jagged ridge being here some 3800 m. high—then for some 200 m. consists of the upper edge of the corniched snow slope due S. of the Studerjoch stretching downwards to the Studer névé, then suddenly bends upwards abruptly to the first peak,* about 4100 m. The previous routes by the 8.E. aréte were accomplished by its 1 There appears to be no record of any complete previous traverse of the ridge.—Editor. 2 Captain Farrar’s ‘ Minor Summit,’ A.J. 27, 263-300.

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168 New Expeditions. W. slope to this snow ridge and fall in with our route at this spot. A very sharp, generally steep and shattered ridge then leads to the base of the well-known slab under the summit. The slab is traversed to the left by a narrow chimney, where there is a fixedrope. The chimney is scaled by its left edge and the summit is attained over a short rock rib, quite easy at its end. The Gemsliicke 1s best attained by a narrow crack in the slabs somewhat to the right and some 70 ft. high. Next follows a traverse to the left over very narrow ledges, followed by wedging up a crack to the broad slabby crest. The route is now obvious and leads, with the exception of one tooth turned by its E. slope, over the highly interesting but never very difficult crest, some 34 kilometres long, to the top. ‘Times’: Finsteraarhorn Hut. é : . dep. 03.00 Gemsiliicke . : : ; », 05.00 Point 3597 m. F : : : » 07.00 Point before snow ridge : , » 12.15 “Vorgipfel’* : : , : » 15.15 Summit. , ; : : . arr. 17.30 ‘Times’ lengthened by much photography, but otherwise fairly quick. (From Die Alpen, 1928, pp. 55-56, and communication from Dr. Hug.) Lepontine Alps. HULLEHORN, 3175 m. = 10,427 ft. By the W. face. May 27, 1927. Count A. Bonacossa alone. From Heiligkreuz (Binn) follow the route of the Passo di Boccareccio (Ritterpass) to the base of the great snow couloir descending from the N. aréte of the Hiillehorn between the summit and point 2945 m. Mount this couloir with ease, but some risk from falling stones and ice; high up, bear left- handed before attaining the watershed and attain the summit over steep slopes and the Hiille Glacier (3 hrs. from the Kumme glen). Descent by the Hiillejoch to Berisal. The route is well shown in the photo, ‘ R.M.’ 1899, p. 124. Monte Leone, 3561 m. = 11,683 ft. By the N.N.W. face direct from the Kaltwasser Glacier. May 29, 1927. H.R.H. the Duke of Apuglia and Count A. Bonacossa. From the Kaltwasser Glacier (start from Hotel Belvedere) the party mounted direct to thesummit by snow slopes—very steep high up and bad snow—in 2 hrs. from the troublesome bergschrund. Descent in dense fog by the Alpienpass. ) Hitherto the ascent has always been made by the route described in Alpes Valaisannes, iv. 15, which is far easier. ‘Our route is

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oS ea 8 IRE I ei aaa Paras ite we ed Phot. O. Hug. | — | Phot. O. Hug. POINT “D.” NEAR POINT “XM.” ” : : View from “minor summit” towards summi View of S. Aréte. minor summit tow: 8S sumrnit.

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Phot. O. Hug. Phot. O. Hug. SLOPE OF FINSTERAARHORN S.E. POINT *'N.” The “slab” and chimney under the summit. aréete of Studerhorn. from upper N.E.

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New Expeditions. 169 probably like yours up the Ferro Orientale [Piz Qualivo] by the N, face, compared with Klucker’s route.’ [See ‘A.J.’ 28, 394-6, and Climbers’ Guide, Bernina, 1. 118-9. ] BorRTELHORN (Punta del Ressio), 3204 m. = 10,512 ft. By the N. face and N.W. aréte. July 4, 1927. Count A. Bonacossa alone. From Berisal by the Steinenthal and glacier to the foot of the N. face (4 hrs., including halts). Bergschrund easy and good snow; kept to the right side, W., of the slope. A rocky rampart gave some trouble, but above the snow was once more excellent. N.W. aréte struck very high up, but it would have been better to stick to the face as far as the summit, bearing left, E. (1 hr. 55 mins., including halts). Descent to Berisal in 2 hrs. 10 mins. ‘ This is the best snow expedition between Simplon and Gotthard, but should be attempted only with good conditions.’ A. B. Bernina (W. Wing) Group. Cima DI VazzEDA,! 3302 m. = 10,833 ft. By the N.W. face and S.W. aréte. June 26, 1927. Count A. Bonacossa and Signor P. Orio. From the Forno Club hut follow the route of the Passo di Vazzeda to the base of the lowest depression between the Cime di Vazzeda and Rosso (1 hr.). Great bergschrund easily crossed and then a very steep snowy slope, about 150 ft. high, is mounted, followed by a rib descending from a point S.W. of summit of Vazzeda (rib exactly shown on sketch, p. 13, of S.A.C. Gurde). Climb the easy rocks of this rib, turning the above-named point either by the Forno, N.W., slope, by rotten rocks, or passing over it. The summit is then easily attained (3? hrs., very slow). There is some risk of falling stones and ice in the short stretch between the bergschrund and the rib. A. B. Brenta Group. CAMPANILE ALTO, 2937 m. = 9636 ft., D.u.d&. A.-V. map. By the W. aréte. August 8, 1927. Herren H. Hartmann and G. von Kraus. The climb begins to the left, N., of the base of the W. aréte (more properly the ‘edge’ of a face). The smooth rampart forming the base is climbed over a step of some 100 ft., followed by a difficult traverse to the left, N., then straight up, close to the ‘edge,’ by a very hard crack some 130 ft. high, thus reaching a kind of gap. Next, by a difficult upwards-slanting traverse, attain an overhanging chimney to the right, which is climbed to a plat- form. The next step on the ‘ edge’ is attained by a series of casier little chimneys. This and the third steps are overcome by keeping 1 Height taken from new S. map (1927).

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170 New Expeditions. close to the crest; the fourth and overhanging step, visible from Val Brenta, is climbed by a chimney falling away to the left and leading upwards to a gap in the ‘edge.’ Follow the crest for some Photo, A.A.V.M.] CAMPANILE ALTO. With 1927 route. 200 ft., smooth firm rocks, to a yellow wall. Climb this by an awkward diagonal crack and a short grey chimney to the left, then back again on to the crest, which is followed till close under the summit; this latter is attained over a friable rock wall, followed by a short chimney (6 hrs.). The height of the ‘ aréte’ is some 2000 ft. (From Jahresbericht des A.A.V., Miinchen, 1926-27, pp. 37-8.) | i = Digitized by \s O OR le

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New Expeditions. 171 Norway. (See, in general, the late Mr. Bicknell’s paper, ‘ A.J.’ 84, 18-33.) STORE AUSTABOTTIND, 2203 m. = 7228 ft. By the S. aréte direct from the Gravdals Glacier. July 31, 1927. Messrs. Ola Furuseth, Asbjérn Gunneng, and Boye Schlytter. The summit was first climbed in 1883 by Carl Hall with Soggemoen by the N.W. ridge from Berdalen. This route, which is relatively easy, has since been repeated by several parties. Last summer the above party succeeded in making a new route and ascended direct to the summit from the Gravdals Glacier. The S. face, about 1000 ft. high, consists of a very steep rock wall with two steep arétes on each side, one going up from the Gravdals Glacier and the other from the Ravnskar. Leaving Turtagré at 07.00 the party, going up the Riingsdal, crossed the Riings Glacier, stepped down to the Gravdals Glacier and crossed same, arriving at the foot of the S. face at 12.30. The foot of the aréte was easily gained from the W. side, and after a short halt they began the ascent at 13.00. One climbs at first straight up on the edge for about 14 hrs. on solid rocks with good holds. On meeting here an extremely steep wall, about 20 m. high, which could not be forced, they were compelled to descend to the left (W.) & narrow crack of 8 m., which was followed by a horizontal traverse of about 80 m. to the bottom of a chimney about 50 m. high with a difficult overhang in the middle of it. Before reaching the bottom of this chimney two fruitless attempts were made straight up to get on to the edge. From the top of the chimney, on steep rock by gullies and slabs about 90 m. to the N.E., and one arrives again on the edge, which is followed until stopped by a second impassable rock wall much higher than the former and well seen from the Gravdals Glacier on account of its steepness and grey colour. Then climbing on the left a high slab and a steep chimney, one arrives once again on the edge, which is followed to the top without further trouble. The summit was reached at 19.00. After a }-hr. halt the descent began and was made by the ordinary route along the ridge to Berdalen, and Turtagré was reached at 24.C0. STORE SKAGASTOLSTIND, 2404 m. = 7887 ft. By the S. face direct from the Slingsby Glacier. August 4, 1927. Messrs. Ola Furuseth, Asbjérn Gunneng, and Boye Schlytter. The summit, which is the highest in the Horungtinder, was first climbed in 1876 by Mr. W. C. Slingsby by the ridge from Mohns Skar. Since then several new routes have been made, and last summer the above party climbed direct to the top from the Slingsby Glacier. The S. face, about 1000 ft. high, consists of an extremely steep rock wall with some parallel chimneys running from the base just to the top. The party started from Turtagré and on account of uncertain

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172 New Expeditwns. weather did not get off before 10.00. After a short halt at the hut on the Skagastéls Bandet the Slingsby Glacier was crossed. Despite some huge crevasses the foot of the mountain was reached with only small deviations from the straight course, 15.00. The crossing of the bergschrund at the foot of the wall where two well-defined parallel chimneys descend did not give trouble. Up the chimney to the left and then traverse to the right one, which 1s followed for some 30 m.; the chimney then curves back steeply to the left towards a large platform. The climbing is rather exposed and extremely steep, but the rock is dry and sound. The leader wore rubber shoes, and the sack and axes had to be hauled up some places. The chimney to the right is then taken again, a horizontal traverse of 50 m. follows, and, rounding a sharp corner, a couloir at the base of an overhang is gained. Up by the rocks of its left bank and by an exposed climb a wide gully is reached, with a few rope-lengths of easy climbing which allowed rapid progress. One leaves the gully, and, after severe and steep climbing upwards to the right, one attains the foot of a chimney which leads by an exposed climb to the summit, reached at 21.30. The descent began after } hr.’s halt by the ordinary way, arriving at the Skagastdls hut at 23.00. Boye ScHLYTTER. Corsica. THE mountains of Corsica are divided into three separate groups of different height and extent : (1) The Monte Cinto Group, of by far the greatest extent. It lies to the N.W. of the island and more nearly resembles the Alps. Monte Cinto (2710 m.) is the highest peak. (2) The Rotondo Group is smaller in extent than the former, but appears to have been little explored. At all events we found practically nothing about it in writing. The Rotondo Group lies in the centre of the island and is fairly easily reached from Corte. The highest peak is Monte Rotondo (2625 m.)—a well-known view- point. The principal feature of the group is the number of ney corries, nearly all of which contain wonderful little mountain akes. (3) The Monte Oro Group. This lies to the S. of the Rotondo, separated from that group by the Col de Vizzavona. We left Corte on August 12, 1927, and reached Timozzo after a 4-hrs.’ march. Thence, passing the fountain of Triggione, we pitched our tent on the shore of Lake Oriente, or Rotondo, according to the natives, the real Rotondo Lake being at the foot of the 8. face of Monte Rotondo. The weather was mostly fine: only at the end of our stay did we pene a tremendous storm. This storm kept the temperature very ow.

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New Expeditions. 178 In the explorations described, Herr Buckel took on the W. side of the group, while I devoted myself to the E. A sketch map is included of the group, because the French Etat Major map is rather inaccurate, the heights and positions of the ridges being often wrong. Korsckas MteRetends €a t Woese Peads Grtele 5 use 4 Re Ral aig AN \Mte Montene 23 fe © nates Ye pPrrse \ Reet Monte Rotonpo, 2625m. By the N.W. face. August 13, 1927. Herren A. Buckel and L. Neumiiller. From the Rotondo gap a chimney, interrupted at one spot, leads to the N.W. end of the summit ridge. Go up this 1000-ft. chimney, turn the interrupted part to the left, then again by the chimney, attain the summit ridge two rope-lengths from the top. Capo DE GROTELLE, 2450 m. August 15, 1927. Same party. From the Oriente tarn go up the slopes to the W. to the ridge and along this to the top. Descent to the 8.W. over a steep ledge and at its end descend en rappel over a rock rampart. La Moniccra, 2536 m. Same date and party. From a spot level with the N. buttress of the peak and the glen to its W., steer along under its broken rocks to the S. for 3 hrs. to the gap between Point 2280 m. and La Moniccia. Now follow the ridge; climb over & loose boulder on the crest to a small gap, turn on to the S. face

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174 New Expeditions. and thus attain the S. summit. Continue along the crest over a deep gap to the N. summit, attained by a crack. Punta MELLO, 2490 m. An excrescence on the ridge extending N.W. from La Moniccia and Point 2280 m. Same date and party. Easily attained over its shattered S. flank. It affords a wonderful view over the unknown W. group. Punta ORIENTE, 2420 m. August 16, 1927. Herr A. Buckel. From the Oriente tarn follow route of Monte Rotondo (1 hr.), then to the W. above the tarn to a narrow gap, then over steep slabs to the top. Punta pi Finestra, 2450 m. August 17, 1927. The same. From the gap mentioned above S. of Punta Oriente, turn a tooth, then up a chimney to the ridge and over this to the top. Monte Rotonpo, 2625 m. Direct ascent of the N.W. face. August 13,1927. Herren W. Fendt, H. Lampsberger, and.P. Klein. From a point one-third of the height of the gully leading to the Rotondo gap, attain a crack seaming a great smooth slab and extend- ing right up the face. The crack is left several times right or left to turn overhangs. The last difficulty is a chock-stone turned on the left. The rest 1s easy, the ridge being reached close to the top (23 hrs.). Monte Sprici£, 2560 m. Same date and party. From the gap between our summit and Punta Rufi descend on to the E. slope and climb a chimney. After a step of 20 ft., attain the summit from the E. by a gully. Descent by the N. aréte towards the gap leading to Monte Rettangulo (24 hrs.). Punta Ruri, 2535 m. Same date and party. From Punta Flender follow the 8. aréte for three-quarters of its length. Turn a gap to the E. and climb this face to the top. Descent to the N. mostly en rappel. Monte MENTONE, 2550 m. Same date and party. The ascent and descent both taken over the S.W. rib and S. face (2? hrs.). MonreE RETTANGULO, 2545 m. Same date and party. Go astride of the smooth S. aréte to the top (1 hr.). TORRE DE TRES, 2465 m., 2470 m., 2460 m. August 14, 1927. Same party. The highest point is in the middle and separated from the others by deep gaps. Traverse the sky-line from end to end, descending the last step on the S. en rappel. Torre Fiera, 2420 m. Same date and party. Climb up from the S. to the gap between the summit and Torre de Tres. Now follow an exposed ledge to the right to a shallow crack, mount this and attain a chimney to the left, whence the double-toothed summit is attained (3 hrs. from the gap). Monte Pozzo_o, 2475 m. August 15, 1927. Same party. Go up a convenient cleft on the 8.W. slope and follow it round to the S. to a platform against the summit (13 hr.). Point 2500 m. Same date and party. This is the finest point to the S.K. of Monte Rotondo. Go up a débris-filled couloir leading

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Various Expeditions. 175 to the gap between the summit and Torre de Pozzolo. From the gap—reached with difficulty high up—turn on to the W. aréte and, sometimes by its N. slope, attain the summit. Descent over débris- strewn slabs towards the S. till level with the gap, which is then easily attained over a ledge (3 hrs.). TorRE PozzoLo, 2440 m. Same date and party. From a gap to the E. descend a few feet to the 8. to a snow-patch by which the aréte is reached. Go over this ridge to a rope’s-length under the summit, attained with difficulty from the N. (1 hr.). Punta Copa, 2470 m. Same date and party. Go up the farthest N. chimney till the middle of the face, then take a chimney to the left and over this and a step attain the summit (2 hrs.). TORRE DE Rotonpo, 2450 m. Same date and party. By the S. aréte and its E. slope, followed by a gap to a crumbling wall. Then over a terrace and a crack to the top (14 hr.). Monte Spici£, 2560 m. By the N.W. face. August 18, 1927. Herr W. Fendt. Attain a conspicuous snow-patch under the 650-ft. high face, and by this and small steps, turned to right or left, attain the summit. Descent by the W. aréte; a rappel is needed for the descent of a 30—40-ft. overhang (1? hr.). Although these Corsican peaks cannot be compared to the Alps, yet the beauty and loneliness of the region, as well as the charm of the climbs, will appeal to any visitor desirous of quiet combined with scenery. WILHELM FENDT, A.A.V.M. VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS. Bernese Oberland. JUNGFRAU, 4166 m. = 13,670 ft. By the N.E. aréte. September 6, 1927. Mr. R. L. M. Underhill, with Adolf Rubi, one of the young Grindelwald guides, made the third ascent of this fine ridge (first ascent,) cf. ‘A.J.’ 26, 344-5; second ascent, ‘A.J.’ 86, 169-171). Following a week of perfect weather there had been a storm on the 4th and morning of the 5th; conditions were not good. The ascent of the very difficult first gendarme was exactly like that described in the account of the first traverse of the ridge, with the addition that the steep climb at the end of the delicate ice traverse out upon the N. face was up rocks set in ice and sprinkled 1 The first traverse, taken in the descent, was accomplished on September 2, 1903, by Mr. C. F. Meade, with Ulrich and Heinrich Fuhrer (A.J. 21, 559 ; 22, 566-72).

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176 .Various Expeditions. with snow. Rubi, in a splendid effort, eventually mastered this step, much the hardest of the whole climb, by the adroit use of an ice-axe hold. The abominably loose rock dwelt upon in the account of the second ascent was not in evidence, due very likely to the ice consolidation. Beyond this gendarme the party kept strictly to the ridge, as powdery snow made any traverse out upon the N. face unsafe. At two points a human ladder was necessary. The climbing up to the ‘secondary summit’ was in the main rock work of a high degree of interest, though one snow-covered gendarme, of wicked appearance but little power of real resistance, remains in memory. There were no serious difficulties upon this stretch. After the secondary summit sections of icy corniche began to appear, and had to be traversed, as untrustworthy snow forbade any descent upon the N. face. These sections, interpolated between gendarmes, were however regularly short, and one of the party could always be anchored on rock. There followed more fine rock work, ending in the tall smooth-faced gendarme emphasized in the preceding accounts. The ascent of this, an affair of delicate face- climbing upon small but adequate holds, was rendered difficult by a band of ice across its middle; Rubi’s work in passing over from the small rock-holds into ice-steps, and again on to the rock face, was of a very high order. From the Wengern Jungfrau a broad snow-ridge, followed by easy rocks, leads to the summit. Left Jungfraujoch 05.00, Point 3788 m. about 08.00, summit 13.25. This rapid time was due chiefly to the fact that, owing to the constant threat of bad weather (clouds settled down during the ascent of the first gendarme, and light snow fell from time to time later on), the party pushed regularly ahead, making but one halt (of 5 mins.) at Point 3788 m. This splendid ridge deserves far more attention. After the first gendarme the rock improves rapidly, eventually becoming un- impeachable. The climb is of unfailing interest and better, it was thought, than, for instance, the Schalligrat or Viereselsgrat. If really caught by bad weather a party can descend in a couple of places to the Jungfraufirn, and the brief return from the summit to the Jungfraujoch by the ordinary route always holds out the prospect of an easy finish. Norway. Ks2ZRRINGA from Maradalsskar. August 5, 1927. Messrs. Ola Furuseth, Asbj6rn Gunneng, and Boye Schlytter. This route was first climbed in 1908 by F. Schjelderup, with Knut and Arne Fortun, and has since not been repeated until last summer. The height of the rock wall from the Maradalsskar to the summit is only about 350 ft., but the wall is extremely steep. The party left the Skagastdlshut at 05.30, descended to the Midtmaradal] and reached the Maradalsskar after 3} hrs.’ walk.

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Phot. A. Gunneng. KJZERRINGA from Maradalsskar. Phot. H. Tonsberg. STORE AUSTABOTTIND from Gravdals Glacier.

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me 2. « : = i Phot. P. K. Murray. STORE SKAGASTOLSTIND from Slingsby Glacier. Phot. A. Gunneng. STORE SKAGASTOLSTIND, S. FACE, from Slingsby Glacier.

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Alpine Notes. 177 The climb up the wall is very severe on account of its steepness, and also partly owing to the rock in some places being dangerously loose. The climb is considered the most difficult one in the Horungtinder. The summit was reached at 15.00 after 34 hrs.’ climb from the gap. Descent was made on the opposite side by Jernskarrenden to Midtmaradal, up to the Skagastélshut, and Turtagr6é was reached at 19.00. Boye ScHLYTTER. ALPINE NOTES. Date of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY: Election Crossman, A... ‘ : j ‘ : . 1871 Wainewnght, J. H. . ; : ; . 1875 Bainbridge-Bell, Rev. F. C. : : : . 1889 Mumm, A.L. . : : : : . 1889 Tribe, Wilberforce N. . : ; ‘ . 1891 Monro, Rev. C. G. : ; : : , . 1892 Neame, G.H. . ; : ; ; : . 1903 Bow LakE (see frontispiece) in the Rocky Mountains of Canada forms the most northerly Continental Divide source of the South Saskatchewan River. Well stocked with trout, the lake is frequented by travellers en route to the Freshfield, Lyell and Columbia Icefields. The foreground shows the stream from Bow Pass entering the lake, the adjacent meadows forming a delightful camping ground which may be reached in a day and a half, with horses, from Lake Louise. The mountain wall in the background supports the Crowfoot glacier, and mountaineers, in a single day, can climb from the lake, traverse the expanses of the Waputik Icefield and descend to the camps in Yoho valley. The ilustration is from the painting by Carl Rungius, well known for his Canadian landscapes and studies of big game. It is copy- righted by Harper & Brothers and reprinted with their permission. We express our warm thanks to Dr. J. Monroe Thorington for generously presenting the print to the ALPINE JOURNAL.—Edvtor. AN ITALIAN COMMISSION ON THE DIVISION OF THE ALPS.—A new arrangement of the Alps in a series of arbitrary regions and districts is the subject of the report of a military commission, appointed in 1924 by the President of the Italian Geographical Society, which has been recently analyzed and commented on by Mr. Douglas Freshfield in the January number of the “ Geographical Journal.’ Such an arrangement, it is obvious, would, if it met with general acceptance, be of great value to writers on Alpine science as well as to travellers and handbook compilers. Mr. Freshfield VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. N

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178 Alpine Notes. describes the governing principle adopted by the Italian Commission as sound and practical. ‘It has,’ he writes, ‘set aside arguments based on racial or linguistic considerations, or on geological, botanical or climatic conditions. It has altogether ignored political frontiers. It has preferred to look on the Alps as from an aeroplane with a ~ single eye to their Surface Relief.’ The Commission accepts the division of the Alpine chain into three main regions, but it differs from previous geographers in fixing their limits. Thus the line between the Alps and Apennines is drawn at the Col di Cadibona (sometimes called the Col d’Altare) behind Savona. Again, a boundary between the Western and Central Alps is found in the Val d’Aosta and the Petit Ferret ; that between the Central and Eastern Alps is furnished by the lower Adige Valley, the Brenner Pass and the valley of the Inn. The former Mr. Freshfield accepts, but he points out that the latter would take away from the Eastern Alps not only (as Mr. Ball has done) the Ortler, Brenta and Adamello Groups, but also the essentially Tyrolese (tz- thaler and Stubaier Ferner. This he disapproves and, fortified by Mr. Coolidge’s authority, he proposes as an alternative a line running past Lago d’Iseo up Val Camonica and over the Aprica and Umbrail Passes to the Reschen Scheideck and the Inn Valley and Arlberg. As regards districts the proposals of the Commission are to a large extent accepted by their critic. Those who care to follow them in detail may be referred to the ‘ Geographical Journal,’ where they are set out in full with the help of a map; here we confine ourselves to indicating the main points in which Mr. Freshfield questions the conclusions of the Commission. He resents the transfer of Mont Blanc to the Graian Alps, and suggests that it should be allowed the dignity of a separate district with the Petit St. Bernard and Petit Ferret as its boundaries. The ‘ Rhaetian Alps’ of the Commission extend from the Spliigen and the Oberalp to the Brenner, with for their limits ‘ on the south the Adda, the Aprica Pass, the Oglio, the Croce Domini Pass, the Chiese, Lago di Ledro, head of Lago di Garda, gap of Loppio; to the east the Adige, the Isacco (Eisack), the Brenner road; to the north and west the Inn, the Arlberg Pass, the Rhein, and the Hinter Rhein.’ This comprehensive medley of distinct and incongruous groups is characterized by Mr. Freshfield as inadmissible. The Albula and Silvretta-Rhatikon should, he holds, form one district as the Rhaetian Alps; the Bernina another; the Ortler, (tzthaler and Stubaier Ferner might well be united under the title of the Tyrolese Alps. The AdamelloGroup should include the Brenta. Thus, according to the division into regions already proposed, the Ortler and Adamello would be restored to the Eastern Alps, with which (except in the pages of the ‘ Alpine Guide ’) they have been generally associated. Cartes pU Massir pu Mont Buanc par Henri, Joseph et Charles Vallot.—These maps of Mont Blanc begun by Henri and

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Phot. E. Planinsek. JALOVEC FROM N.W. (The modern route is up rock-buttress to left of couloir.)

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Alpine Notes. 179 Joseph Vallot, continued, edited and published by Charles‘ Vallot, include : (1) One map on a scale of 1 : 20,000 in 3 colours with contours at 20 m. intervals, containing 13 sheets. Of these: sheets the following have now been published: ‘Chamonix’ (provisional), “Le Tour,’ * Argentiére,’ ‘ Taléfre’ (permanent). The next sheet will be * Le Tacul.’ (2) One general map on a scale of 1 : 50,000 in 4 sheets issued in 3 colours with contours at 40 m., encluding the Swiss and Italian por- tions of the Chain. TheN.E. portion will be published in June 1928. (3) One general map on a scale of 1: 100,000 in 1 sheet, 3 colours with contours at 40 m. In preparation. (4) One general map on a scale of 1 : 200,000, 1 sheet in 3 colours with ‘ pencil’ relief. Issued in 1927. This great map, long eagerly awaited, is to be used always con- jointly with the Guide Vallot. The two works are to be considered as one, and each supplements the other. As a mark of affection for our former Ally and of respect for him- self, His Imperial Highness Prince CHICHIBU OF JAPAN has been elected an Honorary Member of the Alpine Club. Sir Martin Conway (President 1902-4), Srr FeLtx ScHustErR (Vice-President 1899-1901), and Mr. GEorGcE YELD (Vice-President 1915-17) have all completed 50 years’ membership of the Alpine Club. THE 1927 SEASON IN THE JULIAN ALPs.—Mrs, Copeland writes : ‘ The season was exceptionally fine and dry, with the result that many successful expeditions were recorded. There were several first ascents of difficult “‘ walls,” notably on the N. face of the JaLovec [Jalouz], SKRLATICA, TRAVNIK, MorstRovkKa, ‘“‘ Devil’s Ledges” (Sp1x), and in the TRIGLAV massif. All go to the credit of native climbers, above all to Dr. Stanko Tominégek, Mr. JoZe Cop, Mr. Martelanc, Miss Pavla Jesih, Messrs. Prevec and Hudnik, Mr. Miha Pototénik. Important, chiefly, because of its associations is the successful ascent of Triglav N. face by the diagonal route which Dr. Klement Jug was attempting when he lost his life. Dr. Tomingek and Joze Cop accomplished its first ascent and then—independently—Messrs. Hudnik and Prevec. ‘I enjoyed several good climbs this year. JozZe Cop even took me up a new route up the Moistrovka wall. It was only a 4 hours’ climb, so that there was time for me to do my own work throughout. My last trip was over the MarTULJEK. The first snow had fallen, and when we were near the ridge our party (we were three) got into difficulties owing to ice, for which we were insufficiently equipped. So we had to take to the rock and had 4 hours’ icy climbing in a fairly strong N. wind. Under ordinary circumstances that trip is easy and one of the most picturesque we have. “Dr. Friedrich Kroeber, of Halberstadt, a German climber with thirty years’ experience of mountaineering in Switzerland, had come

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180 Alpine Notes. for a first visit to the Julian Alps, being prompted to this by Dr. Kugy’s lectures and book (Aus dem Leben eines Bergsteigers). He enjoyed several successful trips. The last of these expeditions was an ascent of the Jaluvec by way of the ridge (July 17), when he joined a party of members of the mountaineering club Skala. Two days later he fell and was killed on an ascent of Mt. Priso1niK by the new rock route. Dr. Kroeber was alone on this trip, and the exact cause of the accident will never be known. * There was a sensational rescue in the Triglav range early in the . year, when two students who had gone off for a few days’ ski-running got snow-bound and very nearly died of starvation. They were found by a search party from Bohinj, when they were at the last gasp, and that they were found at all was due to the merest chance. ‘ Another brave rescue was achieved when Miss Jesih and Mr. T. Guera climbing the N. face of the Spik in July were fog-bound on the ‘* wall’? for 36 hours, and Mr. Guera was overcome by cramp. Miss Jesih gained the top of the great chimney alone, when she was met by Joze Cop (who had in the meantime reached the summit by the ridge), and the two between them hauled up Mr. Guera.’ There are no true professional guides in the Julian Alps. During the Austrian régime a certain number existed, but all these were killed or incapacitated during the war. Mr. Joze Cop, a distinguished local mountaineer, is willing to act as professional companion to any British parties visiting the district, while the hunter, MrHa OJTzL, in Kranjska Gora, is stated to be a reliable mountaineer. The AKADEMISCHER ALPENKLUB, BERNE, has courteously in- formed the A.C. that its members will be admitted to the A.A.C.B.’s huts, z.e. the Engelhorn and Bietschhorn, with the same privileges as accorded to its own and 8.A.C. members. The charge for spending the night amounts to 1 franc. The Alpine Club much appreciates the favour. Herr Oesterle remains President of the A.A.C.B., while Herr H. Biirgi replaces Herr Amstutz as Hiittenchef. We regret to learn of the death of Monsieur FELIX PERRIN, the distinguished French mountaineer. M. Perrin will be remembered as the last surviving member of the famous trio, Mr. Coolidge and Capitaine Henri Duhamel, joint authors of the classic Guide du Haut Dauphiné (1890) and The Central Alps of the Dauphiny (2 editions, 1892 and 1905). M. Perrin was, of course, intimately connected with Mr. Coolidge as regards the publishing and editing of Josias Simler et les origines de l Alpinisme jusqu’en 1600 (1904). The death is announced of Dr. Karu DIENER as having occurred on January 6 last. Dr. Diener (Hon. Member A.C. 1911-16) was Professor in the University of Vienna and a very well-known mountaineer and writer. We hear of his death with regret. CapTaIn J. P. Farrar has been elected an Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club.

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Alpine Notes. 181 *CHARMOZ AND GrREPON.’—In the charming obituary of the late Miss Katherine Richardson by her great friend Mademoiselle Mary Paillon, La Montagne, 1927, pp. 326-34, it appears that on August 15, 1888, Miss Richardson, with Emile Rey and J. B. Bich, accomplished the first ‘lady’ traverse of the Aiguille des Grands Charmoz. Mademoiselle Paillon kindly informs us that Miss Richardson’s notes read as follows: ‘ Aiguille des Charmoz, premiére traversée féminine des 5 pointes, pointe Nord-Ouest 3443°8, Pointe Sud 3444-5 ’ [3444 m. is the Vallot height of le Baton Wicks, 3445 m. is the Vallot height of the highest point]. It would appear, conse- quently, that the expedition was a N.-S. traverse. On the other hand, M. Maurice Paillon’s son remembers perfectly Miss Richardson telling him that the traverse was made ‘ in the opposite to the usual way, from which it might have been from §.-N. The matter is of small importance, but should be noted in connexion with Sir George Morse’s paper, * A.J.’ 88, 251, in which the statement about ‘ the first traverse by ladies’ should be modified accordingly. Tre Irauian ‘ApDuLA’ FRoNTIER.—In connexion with the numerous new reservoirs that are being made on the Italian side to develop electric power, a number of excellent paths have been made. They start well, but are very apt to lead the climber astray, especially by lantern light. Rough quarters and some food can be had at the house by the dam at the end of the Vannino Lake. There is no intention of making it an inn, and possibly this may cease when the workmen have left. The OFENHORN is climbed easily from here or taken on the way to the new Italian hut on the ‘Gemsland’ alp about one mile from the snout of the Hohsand Glacier on the left bank of the stream. This new hut, the ‘ Citta di Busto’ (caretaker), will be convenient for the peaks at the head of the Hohsand Glacier. The new Aputa Hut (S.A.C.) on the Piotta Pass is bewirtshaftet. The U.T.O.E. Hut is about one hour higher up on the way to the RHEINWALDHORN. A comfortable one-room hut. Not provisioned and no wood. H. E. Newron. Sir George H. Morse, President A.C., has very kindly presented a Lettre de M. Bourrit sur le premier voyage fait au sommet du Mont Blanc (see ‘ Annals of Mont Blanc,’ C. E. Mathews, p. 98). This letter contains the first printed account of the first ascent, 1786. There are only two other copies in existence, one of which is in the Library, Geneva, the other being in the possession of the de Saussure family. (See Mr. H. F. Montagnier’s ‘ Bibliography of the Ascents of Mont Blanc,’ ‘ A.J.’ 25, 608-40.) An attempt was made on the N. aréte of the AIGUILLE NorrE DE PeréReET, July 31, 1927, by Herren E. Allwein and F. Gabler. The party attained with much difficulty (3 hrs. from the Fresnay Glacier

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182 Alpine Notes. bergschrund) the gap ! between the Dames Anglaises, Punta Jolanda, and the Aiguille Noire, t.e. Kurz’s Bréche Sud des Dames Anglaises, ca. 3500 m. Thence descending on the E. slope, a traverse was made on to the Aiguille Noire’s N.E. face in the hope of being able, by this face, to attain the middle of the N. aréte near the flattish step. The party, having overcome great difficulties and a certain height, were forced to return by the same route. Another attempt was made on the same day by an unnamed Austrian party; this latter endeavoured, from the Bréche, to follow the crest of the aréte, which proved quite impracticable. Jahresbericht des A. A. V., Mitinchen, 1926-7, pp. 38, 44. The BRECHE CENTRALE DES DAMES ANGLAISES, 7.e. the gap between l’Isolée and the Aiguille Blanche de Pétéret (‘ A.J.’ 89, 336, foot- note 3), was first attained from the Fresnay side, July 22, 1913, by Signori G. B. Gugliermina, G. Lampugnani, F. Ravelli and A. Zanutti ( A.J.’ 28, 82-3; Kurz, 1927, p. 351), and has subsequently been reached from the Fresnay side by at least one French party. A. Bonacossa. Dr. W. von Kehl sends the following interesting ‘ times’ for his ascent of Mont BLanc via the AIGUILLE BLANCHE DE PETERET as reported in ‘ A.J.’ 89, 336-7. The party consisted of Herr von Kehl with Fritz Amatter, Fritz Suter and Lucien Proment, ‘ the latter of whom accompanied the Gugliermina party on their well-known ascent of Mont Blanc from the EK.’ August 3, 1927 Courmayeur . : . dep. 15.00 Gamba Hut . : . (arr. 08.30 August 4 : ; : : . (dep. 03.30 Fresnay Glacier. . arr. 04.30 Breche des Dames Anglaises ee ed Aiguille Blanche de Pétéret ee oe Col de Pétéret ; ee 18.15 August 5 é : : : . \dep. 04.10 Foot of ‘Grand Gen- darme ’ : . arr. 06.10 The Eckpfeiler j . arr. 07.20 Mont BlancdeCourmayeur arr. 11.45 Mont Blanc . ; . arr. 12.20 r (arr. 12.45 Cabane Vallot . *\dep. 13.40 Courmayeur (via Dome Glacier) . ; . arr. 21.30 1 This gap, never traversed en col, was attained from the Brenva side, August 12, 1899, by Signori A. Hess and O. Leitz with Laurent Croux and Alexis Brocherel (#.M. 1899, 477-86; Kurz, 1927, p. 354).

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Alpine Notes. 188 The party ‘ ascended from the Col de Pétéret in a direct line via the watershed to the great red gendarme on the upper part of the Pétéret aréte. The route hitherto usually followed lies a good deal more to the right, E. In very good snow conditions my route is preferable.’ | It is reported that LE PirE ETERNEL,! the extraordinary pinnacle at the extremity of the N.W. aréte of the Aiguille de la Brenva (see ‘ A.J.’ 25, 503, 741-2, and especially the fine illustration facing 503), has been climbed by ‘ two young fellows of Courmayeur.’ They are stated to have worked for days with chisels, iron spikes and fixed ropes. This sort of exploit is quite beyond the pale and is a degrada- tion of mountaineering. Any steeple-jack could have done the work better and in a tenth of the time. | The A.C. narrowly avoids Roya, CENsuRE. We are permitted by Sir John Murray to publish the following extracts from ‘ The Letters of Queen Victoria,’ Second Series, vol. 3, 1879-85. Edited by George Earle Buckle. Published by John Murray, London, 1928 :— * Sir Henry Ponsonby to Mr. Gladstone. ‘24th August, 1882. ‘Dear Mr. GLapsTonE,—The Queen commands me to ask you if you think she can say anything to mark her disapproval of the dangerous Alpine excursions which this year have occasioned so much loss of life—Hrnry F. Ponsonsy. * Editor’s Note-——Professor Frank Balfour and guide were killed 19th July ; Mr. Penhall and guide on 3rd August ; and Mr. Gabbett and two guides on 12th August. ‘ Mr. Gladstone to Sir Henry Ponsonby. ‘IwWERNE MinsTER House, ‘25th August, 1882. ‘ My DEAR Sir H. Ponsonsy,—I do not wonder that the Queen’s sympathetic feelings have again been excited by the accidents, so grave in character, and so accumulated during recent weeks, on the Alps. But I doubt the possibility of any interference, even by Her Majesty, with a prospect of advantage. It may be questionable whether, upon the whole, mountain-climbing (and be it remembered that Snowdon has its victims as well as the Matterhorn) is more destructive than various other pursuits in the way of recreation which perhaps have no justification to plead so respectable as that which may be alleged on behalf of mountain expeditions. The question, however, is not one of wisdom or unwisdom ;_ but viewing it, a8 you put it, upon its very definite and simple grounds, I see no room for action. | 1 Kurz, 1927, p. 222, under name of ‘ Capucin de Ja Brenva.’

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184 Alpine Notes. ‘My attempt at yachting came to grief, and the chance of renewing it is small. * Yours sincerely, ‘W. E. GLADSTONE. ‘ Editor's Note—Mr. Dismore was killed on Snowdon on 20th August.’ Professor F. M. Balfour and his guide, Johann Petrus, of Stalden, were killed whilst making the ascent of the Aiguille Blanche de Pétéret, on July 19, 1882, ‘ A.J.’ 11, 90-3. Mr. William Penhall and his guide, Andreas Maurer, were over- whelmed by an avalanche on August 3, 1882, whilst ascending the Wetterhorn, ‘ A.J.’ 11, 93-7. Mr. W. E. Gabbett, a lecturer in the University of Durham, with his guides Joseph M. Lochmatter and the latter’s eldest son, were all killed whilst making the ascent of the Dent Blanche on August 12, 1882, ‘ A.J.’ 11, 97-9. According to ‘ Die Alpen,’ the ALTELS Glacier, which caused the disaster of 1895 in the neighbourhood of the Gemmi path, is again giving cause for uneasiness. Several large clefts are opening out and the snout is giving signs of being but loosely attached to the smooth rocks. A proposal to blast part of the lower portions away has been unfavourably reported on, but the glacier will be carefully watched throughout the summer of 1928. A German expedition is reported as about to visit the BoLIVIAN CoRDILLERAS. Illampu (6600 m.) is the principal objective. Herr Hans Pfann is to be the leader. Another German expedition is to leave for the ALTAI mountains (Turkestan). Herr EK. Allwein will be leader of the mountaineering section of the party. Count Aldo Bonacossa had a narrow escape on the N. buttress of Piz BapiLe on July 24. ‘The leader took a terrible fall and in holding him I cut my left hand severely and dislocated my thumb. Fortunately, I had an English rope, which held. I was laid up for 2 months and am not quite fit yet, but my companion, who smashed his foot, is quite all right again.’ [I cannot help drawing my friend’s attention to ‘A.J.’ 87, 144, para. 2 and 153, last para. ! —E.L.8.] When the ITat1An HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION materializes, H.R.H. the Duke of Spoleto, brother of the Duke of Apuglia, will be leader. One of the pleasantest features of the last seasons in the Alps has been the large increase of BELGIAN mountaineers. Many of these parties are as remarkable for their skill as all are conspicuous for their modesty.

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Alpine Notes. 185 Dr. von Kent has very kindly presented a series of stereoscopic views of the Aiguille Blanche de Pétéret—Mont Blanc ridge. These views, which are of great interest, can be seen at the Alpine Club. GENERAL Sir GeorcE F. Mine, G.C.B., etc., Chief of the Imperial General Staff, has been created Field Marshal of the British Army. The new Field Marshal, affectionately known to many thousands of British soldiers as ‘ Uncle George,’ will long be honoured by our French Allies as the foremost British exponent of European “mountain ’ warfare. To the Royal Serbian Army and the (Hellenic) Cretan Division—fiercest of mountain fighters—the appointment will equally appeal. Those members of the Alpine Club who have served in the Balkans will appreciate the honour as much as its self-less Recipient. The Gross GLOCKNER has been ascended by what is claimed to have been the first complete traverse of the famous Pallavicinirinne. The party consisted of Herren W. Welzenbach and K. Wien— July 16, 1927. The Obere Glocknerscharte was attained in 44 hrs. from the bergschrund, step-cutting in hard ice for some 350 m., Jahresbericht des A.A.V., Miinchen, 1926-17, p. 42. The same annual reports the discovery of new routes up the GSCHNITZER (2957 m.) and PFLERSCHER TRIBULAUN (3102 m.). The ascent of the latter, a fine dolomitic peak, used to count as one of the hardest in the Eastern Alps, but has now become an every- day occurrence. The same annual reports a total of no less than 2794 ExPpEpDITIons, of which 316 were in the Western Alps, for the season of 1927, accomplished by the members of the A.A.V., Miinchen. The disastrous floods in the Grisons at the end of last September have played havoc with the beautiful Vat Brecac.ia. The chief village, Vicosoprano, had to be evacuated, and much damage was caused at Casaccia, Stampa, Borgonovo and Castasegna. At Promontogno, the picturesque old bridge connecting Bondo with the Maloja road was swept away by the Mera; the same fate happened to the Stampa bridge. The strong construction of the houses was responsible for the avoidance of loss of life, but the total damage is estimated at more than 20,000,000 francs. One of the most unfor- tunate results has been the renewal of the demand for barraging the LAKE OF SILs (draining in the opposite direction !) as well as the ‘ harnessing ’ of the Ordlegna and Albigna torrents, together with sluices forthe Mera. The local gossip in Val Bregaglia is to the effect that the Upper Engadine having been ruined aesthetically by the construction of the Grand Hotel, St. Moritz and the Maloja Kursaal— the worst eye-sore in the Alps—Val Bregaglia has a perfect right to desecrate its own unique scenery |!

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186 Alpine Notes. Hich LeveL PatH IN THE Masino District.—A new path, similar to those in the central massif of the Brenta, is to be con- structed to connect the Gianetti-(Badile-)Allievi-Cecilia Club huts. The path will be at an average height of 7000-8000 ft., and the gradient will be as level as possible. The distance between the Gianetti and Cecilia (Disgrazia) huts is nearly 11 miles. A new hut, to be an inn in summer, is to be constructed close to the old Cecilia hut. The path will traverse some of the wildest scenery in the Alps and should be a boon to old and young mountaineers alike. It is hardly possible to speak too highly of the scheme, since the one drawback to the Baths of Masino has been, hitherto, its lack of walks during doubtful weather. The Gianetti and Allievi huts are Inns in summer and a new Club hut-—equaily served by the path—is constructed near the head of Val Torrone at a height of 2600 m. and will be opened in May 1928. It will be known as Capanna Paolo Ferrario (from the C.A.I., Sezione di Milano, monthly, January 1928, with a panoramic sketch of the path and terrain). A newS.T.D.Club hut—ReEFuce ADELE PLANCHARD—was opened last August. It is situated at about 3200 m. on a spur descending to the 8. of the Jumeaux de Roche Méane. It will be useful for the ascent of the Grande Ruine group. About 4? hrs. distant from the Refuge de ]’Alpe du Villar d’Aréne ; accommodation for 12 persons. From La Montagne. A bibulous burglar. The guardian of the New Chalet Hotel on the Cot p’Is&£RAN, on returning to the Inn at the end of last autumn, perceived through an opened window a gentleman in course of disturbing the furniture. The guardian surrounded the inn with armed friends and sent—to Bourg St. Maurice—for gendarmes. In the fulness of time these latter arrived and ‘ rushed ’ the intruder, while feeding and drinking at the Inn’s expense. He stated that he had arrived that morning, cold and hungry, over the Col de la Galise. His subsequent fate is not recorded, but he had consumed over 200 francs’ worth of champagne alone. From La Montagne. The projected road over the Col d Iséran—one of the main thorough- fares of the RouTE pEs ALPES—which appears as duly constructed on several maps has not yet (January 1928) even been commenced. The Chalet Hotel mentioned above is well constructed but badly placed. It must be in one of the most windy spots in the Alps. A ‘mountaineering’ film called The Wrath of the Gods is being shown all over Great Britain. In view of the introductory title which states that the film is ‘ an enterprise by the Alpine Club and its members,’ it may be well to state that the Alpine Club has not, nor ever has had, any connexion with this or any other film. We may add that some of the photography of the above film is excellent, the story absurd, and the acting grotesque. The scene always purporting to be in the

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Alpine Notes. 187 same spot, is laid, alternately summer or winter—according to the whims of the photographer—at Zermatt, Engelberg, St. Ulrich, Sils-Maria, Silvaplana and several other places, including the seaside. Among the mountains concerned are the inevitable Matterhorn, the Langkofel Group, the Torrone peaks and Ago diCleopatra. For the scene of the final and ridiculous tragedy, no better setting, however, could be found than the frozen water conduit leading to the Silva- plana electric-light turbine! Any mountaineer visiting this film will acquit the Club of any participation in such an atrocity. AN EVEREST poten. The American press is stating that a well- known traveller and photographer with several famous athletes are ‘in training’ for a further attempt on the mountain. It may be added that the Mount Everest Committee and H.M.’s India Office are in complete ignorance of the project and that no further de- velopments with the Tibetan Government have occurred. It will be recollected that a party of 36 Swiss guides were stated, in 1924, to be busy injecting oxygen, ‘subcutaneously,’ into themselves previous to their departure for India, and also, that a recent ‘ autho- rity ’ has recommended that Olympic teams vice mountaineers be employed ‘ not to assault but to walk up the mountain ’ ! Winter Ascents. First winter traverse of Les Ecrins, January 15, 1928; the guides Casimir Rodier and Pierreand Henri Ture. The party left the new Vallon hut at 04.30, the Col des Avalanches at 08.00, where an icy wind was encountered, and attained the summit at 11.15. The weather was superb with a warm sun. Leaving the summit at 11.45 they reached the Col des Ecrins at 13.05. The bergschrund being entirely closed, a very rapid descent brought them to La Beérarde at 16.00, 2? hrs. from the Col. (From La Montagne, 1928, pp. 62-3.) It will be recollected that on February 21, 1926, Monsieur P. Armand-Delille accomplished the first winter ascent (‘ A.J.’ 88, 125-6). First winter ascent and traverse of the AIGUILLES DES DRus. February 25, 1928; the guides Armand Charlet and Camille Dévouas- soud. ‘. . . We have just accomplished this formidable ex- pedition in the direction Petit-Grand Dru. Weather magnificent. Expedition from and to the Charpoua hut took exactly 10 hrs. With M. Blanchet on September 7, 1926 [? September 9], we took 8? hrs., the quickest traverse known to me. This winter, the easiest part of the entire climb proved to be the ascent of the “ Z.” The descent of the Grand Dru to the bergschrund was one of the most awkward that I have ever accomplished—19 rappels instead of the normal7. It took 3 hrs. and we were able to reach Argentiére the same night’ (Letter from Armand Charlet to M. Blanchet). The expedition must rank as one of the most extraordinary ever accomplished in the Alps. This and the traverse of Les Ecrins , show what professionals are capable of when on their own.

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188 Alpine Notes. The G.H.M. now possesses 301 members, an increase of 56 since 1927. The record of expeditions, even for the ‘summer ’ of 1927, is a very fine one. The Annuaire publishes a very seasonable note of warning: ‘Le Comité n’a pas manqué d’étre impressionné par des imprudences qualifiées commises cet été . . . il faut se persuader qu’on ne passe pas impunément sans transition des courses de troisiéme ordre aux courses extraordinaires. One cannot fail to be impressed, unfavourably, both in the Annuazre and in our own JOURNAL, by the number of expeditions, of a more or less high order, accomplished, or at any rate completed, in the most execrable weather. The ARETES DE LA MEIJE were reached for the third time on August 14, 1927, by MM. KE. Stofer and A. Arnaud, the watershed being attained between the second and third teeth. The ‘times’ were 10} hrs. from the Promontoire to the ridge. ‘ Expedition the finest and most difficult of our experience.’ [The first ascent of the Etancgons face of La Meije was made, of course, by the Herren Mayer with Angelo Dibona and L. Rizzi, July 28, 1912, ‘ A.J.’ 26, 462. On this occasion the watershed was attained between the first and second teeth.] The 1927 party discovered in a sheltered spot some 120 ft. above the triangular névé patch, some articles of equipment probably belonging to M. de Rufz de Lavison who perished on this face in 1911, ‘A.J.’ 26,77. From G.H.M. Annuaire, 1928, pp. 16-19. Other interesting DAUPHINE expeditions, reported in the Annuaire, took place on Pic Gaspard, Roche Méane, Pic Bourcet and on Col Maudit, Col de Blaitiére, Aiguille Verte, by the Charpoua face (twice), Les Droites, etc., in the Mont Bianc Group. Alpinisme, the excellent Journal of the Club Alpin Francais Académique, is now run as an independent publication. M. Henri de Ségogne, the well-known mountaineer, is the Editor. No. 8 contains an interesting account of the conquest of the N.W. slope of the Con MaupiT. The expedition was a very dangerous one. M. JACQUES DE LEPINEY, now resident in Morocco, will be in the Alps again this summer. §.A.C. Huts.—Die Alpen gives the number of visitors as 51,815 in 1927 as against 46,076 in 1926. In the 102 Club Huts, the percentage of 8.A.C. members to others works out as 33. The Boval Hut with 2814 visitors again heads the poll, while the Balm- horn with 46 and the Sciora with 50 are among the ‘ also ran.’ JUNGFRAUJOCH.—Dr. Claude Wilson writes: ‘ Mr. Oliver’s paper (‘A.J.’ 89, 49-51) and Mr. Macdonald’s comment (Jb. 340) would seem to indicate that this expedition is made much less frequently than one had supposed. I should have thought it was made three or four times every year; and, in any case, I feel sure that this

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Alpine Notes. 189 pass is crossed far more frequently than any other breach in the great wall—between the Scheidegg and the Wetterliicke. The late Frederick Gardiner crossed it on August 1, 1889 (with two Almers), and we (Wicks, Kesteven, and myself) followed in their steps next day. May not these be examples of what is not really uncommon ? Hotel telescopes are not very busy between 5 and 7 in the morning. ‘But if individual records are desired, I would add that the expedition is more comfortably undertaken without sleeping in a hut. On the only occasion on which we slept at the Guggi (for the N. route up the Ménch) a storm burst upon us in the night and we returned empty-handed through four or five inches of fresh snow. On the other hand, we dined in comfort with our friends on two consecutive evenings, having crossed the Jungfraujoch and Ménch- joch in the interval. Starting much earlier than was needful as we meant to climb the Jungfrau, we never lit a lantern, reaching the upper Guggi plateau by moonlight, which made for slow progress among the crevasses and séracs. Though the night was fine it was hot, and the snow on the plateau was soft at daybreak. This was disconcerting so far as the Jungfrau was concerned, but we noticed a track of recently cut steps up the great ice-wall of the Jungfraujoch. Naturally, our plans underwent a change, for the steps, though rounded and shallowed by the hot sun of the previous day, only needed clearing and trimming. The traverse to the left at the top of the steep slope is, as Mr. Oliver remarks, “‘ quite sensational.” * If a record of our “ times ”’ is of interest—it is thus :— Wengern Alp, August 1 . : . 22.00 Old Guggi hut, August 1 . : : . 23.50 August 2. : . 00.45 Below Bergschrund . : . 05.10-05.35 Top of ice-slope : : ; . 07.00 Jungfraujoch . : : ; . 07.30-08.20 Ober Ménchjoch , : . 09.20 Bergli hut ; : : : . 10.10-11.00 Baregg . : ; : : . 13.45-14.15 Grindelwald. , 15.00 ‘Thence by train back to Scheidegg, and walked on to Wengern Alp.’ THe Sxi-ina AccipENTS, 1927-28.—The English papers alone report to date over 70 fatal accidents. In The Times of January 9, seven such accidents were noted, but this has now been exceeded by an accident on the SonnBLICK (3103 m.) in the Rauris, when thirteen ‘ practised ’ young men, out of seventeen, perished. They appear to have been sheltering, standing actually on a so-called Schneebrett or thick layer of newer snow adhering insufficiently to the older snow, so that the upper layer broke away carrying them down and burying them. The snowcraft, even of ski-ers, would still seem to be ‘a rudi- mentary science.’ We were assured in the last JouRNAL that the

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190 Alpine Notes. ski-er’s ‘ constant preoccupation’ . . . ‘is responsible for the com- paratively small number of accidents.’ Such an assurance must count for little in view of the appalling sacrifice of this winter. We cannot do better than repeat the remark made in vol. 29 of this JOURNAL: ‘ Mountaineering on Ski has come to stay, and within limits they are certainly admirable adjuncts to the tour, but it is idle to deny that they do induce and enable men to venture into places requiring great care, even in summer conditions, and doubly dangerous when masked by winter snow. The loss of many good men bears all too eloquent testimony to the truth of this assertion.’ PROPOSED INCREASED FACILITIES IN THE MT. aux Sources REGION (Drakensberg).—Mr. H. G. Botha Reid, son-in-law of the late General Louis Botha, writes to Mr. Amery ... ‘You may be interested to hear that the Natal Mountain Club proposes erecting a three-compartmented hut on the Mt. aux Sources plateau near where the baby Tugela plunges over the edge into Natal. It will be constructed of local stone with a thatched-tripped roof and will not offend the susceptibilities of the aesthetic-minded. The key will be kept by Zanckel at Gudu Hostel, and all visitors who love the mountains will be welcome to make use of the hut. The need for another hostel at Gudu, on a more pretentious scale, has been impressed upon the National Park Advisory Committee to such an extent that representations were recently made ... The new place will be located at the base of Broom Hill ridge commanding an unrivalled view of Mt. aux Sources and the whole range as far as Cathkin Peak. There will be accommodation for 200 guests on a scale impossible of achievement at the existing hostel ... an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, swimming pool fed by Berg streams . . . will beconstructed. ... Bound up with the develop- ment is the building of a motor-road along the lower slopes of the Berg from Mt. aux Sources to Garden Castle in the Underberg District, a distance of approximately 150 miles. ... The Minister of Finance, recently, for the first time paid a short visit to Mt. aux Sources, and it is understood that he is not unsympathetic. .. . Given a modern hostel at Gudu . . . and the Berg motor highway, this little portion of the Commonwealth should be able to attract many visitors. We also possess the unique advantage of an all- the-year-round season .. .’ THE following extract from Nature of March 3, 1928, p. 315, gives an indication of the greatest possible SPEED attainable by human beings for comparatively short ascents. It appears in a review of Prof. A. V. Hill's ‘Muscular Movement in Man: the Factors governing Speed and Recovery from Fatigue ’ :— “The greatest speed which can be maintained during exercise is therefore determined by considerations of the energy expenditure.

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Alpine Notes. 191 An example is given on p. 23, where the author estimates that a fit man might climb the Woolworth Building (792 ft.) in New York in eight minutes, finishing with an oxygen debt of 15 litres, which is about all a man can tolerate. <A footnote adds that the newspapers reported that the feat had actually been accomplished In nine minutes.’ We understand that Messrs. Farrar, Unna and Smythe are thinking of proceeding to New York to compete for the speed record ; Mr. Smythe would act as time-keeper. Mr. J. A. B. Bruce has been elected an Honorary Member of the Geneva Section of the 8.A.C. The HELLENIC ALPINE CLUB was founded on the highest summit of Mount Olympus, September 12, 1928. We wish it every success and prosperity. M. le Baron GaBeT has been promoted Officier de la Légion d’Honneur. Monsieur le DocTrEuR Henr Fass, President S.A.C., was a guest of the A.C. at the annual dinner of December 13. In honour of the great services rendered by him to mountaineering and as a mark of esteem for the S.A.C.—the eldest of our children—Dr. Faes was elected an Honorary Member of the Alpine Club before the General Mecting held on December 12, 1927. Monsieur le LIEUTENANT-COLONEL REGAUD, Président du C.A.F., Honorary Member A.C., was also with us at the dinner of December 13. His genial presence and eloquence gave great pleasure to all, especially, if we are to credit current gossip, to a senior and very distinguished member. It is credibly reported that Colonel Regaud’s presence alone deterred the said member from doing himself a serious, perhaps fatal, injury ! After an unseemly dispute between the numerous competitors, the Honorary Secretary, Honorary Treasurer, Honorary Curator of Slides and Exhibition Selection Committee, has succeeded in— clandestinely—electing himself to the further post of Honorary LispraRIAN to the Alpine Club. All this despite the strenuous oppo- sition of the Editor, ‘A.J.,’ naturally disgruntled at the (attempted) restriction on the number of his illustrations. The title of the ALPINE JOURNAL has remained unchanged since ite first appearance in 1863. Nevertheless, we notice with surprise that several British periodicals not unconnected with mountaineer- ing, as well as individual writers, persist in referring to it as the ALPINE Club JournaAL! Corresponding continental publications have never, to the best of our knowledge, fallen into this error, a quite inexcusable one in British reviewers.

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192 Himalayan Notes. CORRIGENDA. Mont Bianc FROM THE BRENVA GLACIER.—The French party of July 26, 1927, was composed of MM. Sauvage, R. Tézenas du Montcel and d’Aubigné, ‘ A.J.’ 89, 335-6 ; while the British party of August 1 (not July 27) included Mr. G. 8. Bower and not Mr. Brown. I[bid., 336. ee ScHRECKHORN BY THE S.W. ARETE.—With reference to Mr. Slater’s ascent (‘ A.J.’ 88, 332), my friend, M. Jacques Lagarde, reminds me of the late Dr. Thomas Thomas’s ascent (‘ A.J.’ 25, 183), made in 1909 with the late Auguste Blanc, unfortunately killed on Mont Dolent in 1911. I much regret the oversight. ee HIMALAYAN NOTES. THE HIMALAYAN CLUB. WE have much pleasure in publishing verbatim a copy of a letter that we have received on the formation of the above-mentioned Club. New DELHI, December 20, 1927. We are writing to you on a matter which has long been in our minds, and possibly also in yours. It is believed that there are now many in India who are interested in the Himalaya. Some of us have travelled in the Himalaya for one purpose or another. There are probably many more who are only deterred by ignorance of local conditions. The information now available is difficult to obtain, and even those who are familiar with one locality know little or nothing of conditions elsewhere. We live within reach of the greatest mountain range in the world which, geographically and scientifically, is of extraordinary interest, and offers unique opportunities for mountain travel, exploration, and mountaineering. It has been suggested that a Himalayan Club should be formed with the object of assisting Himalayan travel and increasing our knowledge of the Himalaya in all its aspects. We are now writing to you to ask your views on this proposal. The objects of the Alpine Club include the promotion of mountain climbing and mountain exploration, and of better knowledge of the mountains through literature, science, and art. We think that the scope of a Himalayan Club should be not less wide. We would suggest, therefore, that the objects of the Club should be a better knowledge of the Himalaya and of Himalayan geography, to encourage Himalayan science, literature, and art, and to assist

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Himalayan Notes. © 198 Himalayan travel, exploration, and mountaineering. In particular, and in pursuance of these objects, the Club should undertake : (1) To collect, classify, and publish first-hand descriptions of Himalayan routes, and information about peaks and passes ; (2) To give information, advice, and assistance to members; and (3) To obtain the assistance of local officials for members travelling in the Himalaya. Apart from the assistance that such a Club would give to its own members, we believe that it might be of great value to the Survey of India, to the Geological Survey and other scientific departments, and also from the point of view of military intelligence and training in mountain warfare. We do not suggest that the Club should be an official or semi-official organization. But we have been informally assured of the interest of the Departments of Government principally concerned. The headquarters of the Club would naturally be at Simla, the Himalayan capital of India, where personal contact could be main- tained with the Departments of Government interested. But in a country of such vast distances as India, it might also be desirable to have local or sectional headquarters; and the Surveyor-General has suggested that some of the circle headquarters of the Survey of India might be utilized. But these and other details of organization would more appropriately be considered when a Club is definitely formed. For this purpose it is suggested that it would be desirable to get together as many as possible of those who are willing to become founder members, at some central place at a convenient time. Delhi, on some date in the middle of February during the Horse Show week, has been suggested. It is recognized that the number who could be present would in any case be comparatively small, but it is hoped that others who were willing to support the proposal would send their views in writing. Arrangements would as far as possible be made to put up anyone coming to Delhi who wanted accommodation. We are writing in the first instance only to those whom we know to have a definite interest in the Himalaya and in the objects of the proposed Club. It would naturally be considered at the first meeting what qualification for membership should be required, and it seems important, therefore, that only those whose interest is assured should be invited to become founder members. The names of those to whom this letter has been sent are appended. It will be seen that the list includes those who are known to have travelled in the Himalaya or to have contributed something towards Himalayan geography, science, literature or art, military and political officers whose work is on the frontier, members of the Survey of India, the Indian Forest Service, the Geological Survey and other scientific departments, and members of the Alpine Club now in India. We VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. O

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194 Himalayan Notes. have also sent copies to distinguished mountaineers and others who have travelled extensively in the Himalaya, but are not now in India. To sum up, we now ask you— (1) To give your views and criticisms of the proposed Club and its objects, and your suggestions for its organization qualification for membership, and so on ; (2) To say whether you are willing to become a founder member and, if so, whether you could attend an inaugural meeting at Delhi during the next Horse Show week, say on Saturday the 18th February. There is one other matter to which we have to refer. These proposals had already taken shape when we heard that ‘ The Moun- tain Club of India ’ had been formed with similar objects at Calcutta. We have discussed with the Honorary Secretary of the Club the possibility ofamalgamation. While we appreciate that mountaineers in Calcutta may be unwilling to be dependent on an organization with its headquarters at Simla, it would hardly be possible, for similar reasons, for a Calcutta Club to meet the requirements of Northern India. We understand, however, that the headquarters of the Mountain Club need not be regarded as permanently located at Calcutta, and fusion might perhaps be considered later. But in a country so large as India, the geographical and administrative difficulties of a single all-India Club will always be very great. If a Himalayan Club is formed with the objects that we have suggested, we feel sure that the two Clubs will cordially co-operate by mutual exchange of information and assistance to members; and we hope that those whose interests are not local will be able to be members of both. Yours sincerely, (Signed) G. L. CorBerr. KENNETH Mason. The HimaLayAn CLus was founded at New Delhi on February 17,. 1928. There are about 100 Founder Members. The Officers of the Club are as follows: President . Ficld-Marshal Sir William Birdwood, C.-in-C. in India. Major-General K. Wigram, G.O.C. Waziristan. Vice-Presidents -Colonel Commandant E. A. Tandy, Surveyor- General. Secretary . The Hon. Sir Geoffrey L. Corbett (A.C.) Editor. ; Major Kenneth Mason (A.C.). Treasurer. J. W. Young, Esq.

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Canadian and American Notes. 195 NEW ZEALAND NOTES. THE bodies of Mr. Sydney King and the guide Darby Thomson, who perished on the Linda Glacier, February 22, 1914, during the descent of Mt. Cook, have been discovered by two visitors from Christchurch. They have been buried at the foot of the monument, erected to their memory, at the entrance to the Hooker Valley, on February 20 last. Two days later, on the fourteenth anniversary of the accident, & memorial service was held at the monument, at which the Rev. Adam Begg of Imaru officiated. Mrs. Clark of the Hermitage laid a wreath on the grave, while the service was attended by visitors at the Hermitage. It will be recollected that the accident was caused by a gigantic ice avalanche falling from a peak N. of Dampier and overwhelming the entire party. The body of the second guide, Jock Richmond, was found by Captain Dennistoun’s search party a day or two later (‘ A.J.’ 28, 222-30). It is stated that Mr. King’s watch and camera were intact (letter to Mr. R. Corry). CANADIAN AND AMERICAN NOTES. A.A.C, Camp.—The Annual Camp will be held near the Lake of the Hanging Glacier in the Southern Selkirks above the Columbia Valley. Camp will probably commence on July 17, 1928, and con- tinue for two weeks. Mount Logan EXPEDITION. Receipts. Subscriptions acknowledged in detail in Gazette . . $12,793.48 Expenditures. Organization: Meetings, Press, Telegrams, Stationery, nee Office Expenses, Sun- dries . $998.86 Travelling expenses to and in Alaska and freight charges : : : : . 1,105.04 Preliminary equipment 2,521.92 Food, wages, supplementary equipmenten route 7 496.27 Refund to A. H. MacCarthy towards recon- naissance expenses . : . 671.39 $12,793.48

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196 Canadian and American Notes. Tonquin VALLEY Camp, 1926.—The twenty-first Annual Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held from July 26 to August 7, 1926, in Tonquin Pass, near Moat Lake, in Jasper Park. The Provincial boundary line passed through the camp, so that a small portion of it was in Mt. Robson Park. Mr. GEIKIE naturally attracted first attention from the climbers. Messrs. Drinnan and Grassi worked out a new route which was used in the subsequent ascents. MrT. RepousT was attempted unsuccess- fully, but another opportunity was not afforded. The first ascent of Mr. TURRET was made; it is @ mountain to be treated with respect, as there is much rotten rock upon it. PRINCIPAL EXPEDITIONS IN 1926 (some of which are described in ‘A.J.’ 88, 249-52)—Mr. Howard Palmer and Dr. Hickson started from Jasper on July 4, 1926, with the Swiss guide, Hans Fuhrer. Their main objective was Mr. Fryatt (11,026 ft.), some 23 miles in a direct line to the S., visible from Jasper, and the highest unclimbed peak in the National Park. One of the chief difficulties of the trip was the crossing of the Whirlpool and reaching a camping-ground near the higher of two lakes (approx. 6600 ft.), from which Divergence Creek flows. A trail had to be cut most of the way from the Whirl- pool, and much arduous and skilful work was required in order to get the horses around the lower of the two lakes. Mr. Fryatt was climbed on July 10 by the S. and 8.W. ridges, the ascent proving so long that, although a start was made at 3.45 a.M., the party did not reach camp again until the following morning. An unpleasant experience was an electric storm which developed while the climbers were on the summit. Three days later, the camp having been moved to a neighbouring meadow to the S.W. (approx. 7000 ft.), a pinnacled rock peak, LaPENsEE (10,190 ft.), was ascended ; and a few days after this another virgin and an unnamed peak, situated S.E. from the camp, was crowned with acairn. From Mt. Fryatt at least half a dozen lakes were seen which are not on any map. The party got back to Jasper on July 22. On the 25th Mr. Palmer and Dr. Hickson set out with Jean Weber and travelled up the Astoria on their way to the A.C.C. Camp in Tonquin Valley. On the 26th they made the first ascent of THrRonE Mr. (10,144 ft.), W. of Mt. Edith Cavell, and, the tour being a long one, the climbers had another experience of a night in the open. In the latter part of August Dr. Hickson, with Edward Feuz, Jun., made the ascent of the E. face of the 8.E. tower of Caste Mr. (circa 9850 ft.), situated about half way between Lake Louise and Banff, and reports it to have been the most difficult crag work he accomplished last season or for many seasons in the Rockies. Rope shoes were used on the final 800-900 ft. Rappels had to be employed in the descent.

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Canadian and American Notes. 197 The first ascent of Mr. KERKESLIN was accomplished on August 12, 1926, by Mr. F. H. Slark, with J. Weber. Other first ascents were those of BENNINGTON PEAK and Mr. BLACKHORN. Two expeditions in 1926 and 1927, led by Mr. W. A. Munday, were made to the ‘ Mystery’ Perak, at the head of Bute Inlet. The region had not been surveyed, but the height of the mountain has been roughly estimated at about 13,000 ft. Photographs show it to be a very fine mountain peak, with other fine ones around it. Its elevation and its nearness to the sea coast make it the centre of many storms, and the expedition is a strenuous one. A third attempt will be made in 1928, which it is hoped the results of previous experiences will render successful. We are indebted to Major F. V. Longstaff, Convenor, Maritime Committee, British Columbia Historical Association, for the following notes : Mount MYSTERY. Historical Notes. (° History of B. C.,’ by Howay and Scholefield, 2 vols.) Vol. II, p. 178. * Karly in 1862 Mr. Alfred Waddington obtained a charter for the construction of the Bute Inlet Road, entitling his company to collect certain tolls for ten years on all merchandise carried over it. The surveying and preliminary work having been already finished, construction commenced immediately. By the end of April 1864, a road, or more properly a pack trail, had been completed for 40 or 50 miles up the valley of the Homathco. Sixteen white men in two parties of 12 and 4 respectively were at work four miles apart. Another man, Timothy Smith, was in charge of the ferry where the trail crossed the Homathco river. Some 16 Indians were also employed as packers to assist in the work. On April 29, 1864, three Indians came to the ferry, where a considerable quantity of provisions and supplies were stored in charge of the ferryman. It is said that they demanded food, which request being refused by Smith, they shot him... . The Indians shot and killed nearly all the white workers and thus began what was known as the Chilcotin War. This stopped all the road construction work of Waddington. On p. 188 we find: ‘Mr. Waddington also came forward with a claim for compensa- tion. He petitioned to be allowed to surrender his Charter on being reimbursed the moneys expended on the Bute Inlet scheme, amounting in all to some $50,000.’ (Walbran, ‘ B. C. Coast Names,’ p. 73.) Bute Inlet was proposed by Alfred Waddington in 1862, as a terminus of a railway and steamboat route between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. He

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198 Canadian and American Notes. spent five years in procuring information respecting his proposed interoceanic route. See Geographical Journal, 1868, vol. xxxvill, pp. 118-128. Frederick O. Whymper, artist, in his work on Alaska, gives an interesting account of a visit he made to the head of Bute Inlet in 1864. Waddington Mountain. First. RECORDED by Alfred Waddington’s party. Second. SEEN by Captain R. P. Bishop, B.C.L.S., in summer of 1922, from a great distance, at a point above S. end of Talta Lake. J Third. Seen by Dr. V. Dolmage, Ph.D., of Dominion Geological Survey, soon after Bishop. Fourth. SEEN and approached by Don Munday, who discovered which of the three peaks it was. It has been found that Mount Waddington and Mount Mystery are one and the same peak. It was surveyed in the summer of 1927 by Mr. J. T. Underhill, B.C.L.S., and found to be 13,260 ft. in height ; this makes it the highest in B. C. Lat. 51.20.32. Long. 125.15.34.5. The Wheeler Inter-Provincial Survey named a peak “ Waddington Mt.’ in the Yellow Head Pass area. There should be no hesitation of those representing geographical mapping at Ottawa, in placing a name for the highest mountain in B.C. I refer to that mountain a few years ago brought to general attention by Captain R. P. Bishop, F.R.G.S. From examination of his record it appeared that on the original map made of the lower portion of the Homathco River by Alfred Waddington, this excep- tionally outstanding mountain mass had been viewed by Waddington or members of his party. The right of Waddington, more especially his place in the early history of B.C., is a very extensive undertaking ; speaking generally to mention one outstanding feature is—that subsequent to his effort to build a road from the head of Bute Inlet to the Cariboo—whilst in London it would appear that he was the first on record as having voiced the proposal of a railroad from Eastern Canada to the Pacific. FREDERICK V. “LONGSTAFF. Mr. A. J. Ostheimer III led an important expedition in the CoLuMBIA ICEFIELD country, details of which have not yet been received. Accounts of Dr. J. M. Thorington’s ascents in the FoRBES-LYELL Groups were given in ‘ A.J.’ 39, 52-71. FataL AccipENTS.—Mr. M. D. Geddes was killed on the descent from Mr. Lerroy in August 1927. His great love of the mountains

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Canadian and American Notes. 199 and his hard and enthusiastic work for all that the Club stands for made him admired and respected. Mr. F. H. Slark accompanied by F. Routis, who will be remembered in the Tonquin Valley Camp, were lost in an attempt to scale Mr. Repoust. No trace of them was found by the search party after their last bivouac below Drawbridge Pass. The Alpine Club expresses its deep sympathy to the Alpine Club of Canada and to the relatives of the deceased. It is hoped, through the generosity of Major and Mrs. Brewster, to construct a hut in the neighbourhood of Tonquin Valley, the same to be known as the WHEELER Hut. The 1927 Annual Camp was held in the LitrLe Youo Valley and was attended by 101 persons. Professor CHARLES E. Fay, Hon. Member A.C., after sixty years on the Faculty at Tufts, has resigned. Professor Fay is, we are glad to say, still very active and was touring in Central Europe during the summer of 1927. Recent references to Professor Fay will be found in ‘ A.J.’ 81, 2, and 38, 137. The Department of the Interior has decided to give the name of Mount AMERY, in honour of the British Secretary for the Dominions, to a peak 10,900 ft. high, situated in the Province of Alberta in latitude 53.03, longitude 116.59, where the Alexander River joins the North Saskatchewan River (The Times, February 8). ALPINE CLIMBING Party, DauPuHiné, France, AuGust 8-22, 1928. —From the climbing centres at La Bérarde or La Grave the follow- ing peaks over 10,000 ft. in height can be reached: Meije, Rateau, Les Ecrins, Les Bans, Grande Ruine, Pelvoux, and Ailefroide. A well-placed system of huts permits of long days in the highest altitudes. Two excellent Chamonix guides of the younger school, Marcel Bozon and André Cachat, have been engaged. On days unfavourable for climbing the higher peaks they will give instruction in the technique of rock climbing ; also snow and ice work, such as step cutting. The supplementary trip, under the leadership of Robert L. M. Underhill, to the Chamonix and Zermatt regions in Switzerland for guideless climbing has excited much interest. The members of this small group of men will be chosen from those who qualify during the Dauphiné trip. There will be opportunity to climb many of the well-known peaks, such as Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the ely (from Bulletin, Appalachian Mountain Club, February, ).

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200 Rerews. REVIEWS. H.-B. Dre Saussure. Le Mont Blanc e le Col du Géant. Annoté par E. Gaillard et Henry-F. Montagnier. Lyon: Chez M. Audin et Compagnie. 1927. Two years ago we had occasion to notice! the luxuriously printed and fully annotated edition of the previously unpublished MS. Journal kept by de Saussure during his stay at Chamonix in 1787, supplied us by Commandant Gaillard and Mr. Montagnier. It is now our pleasure to welcome a companion volume. The same editors furnish us with a reprint of the chapters in the famous ‘ Voyages’ which describe, or bear upon, de Saussure’s two great expeditions, the ascent of Mont Blanc and the passage of the Col du Géant. Previous handy volumes of picturesque extracts had made these accessible to the general public. But there must be many moun- taineers who will be glad to possess them in the attractive form in which they are now offered—a limited edition of 450 copies, adorned with admirable reproductions of some of the drawings by Théodore de Saussure and Bourrit which illustrated the original work. More- over, an historical value is added to the reprint by the twenty-nine pages of closely printed annotations with which it concludes. The reader, instructed by the recent researches of Dr. Diibi and Mr. Montagnier,? will hardly look for fresh light on de Saussure’s exploits and adventures, yet he will find among the Notes several docu- ments hitherto unprinted, or only partially printed, fully set out. Perhaps the most interesting of these is a long letter written by Bourrit to a correspondent at Lausanne shortly after his abortive attempt on Mont Blanc with de Saussure in 1785 by the Aiguille du Godter route. This is the letter he submitted to de Saussure as an apology for the more or less public aspersions on the latter as a rock-climber on which he had ventured. Here he goes to the opposite extreme, dwelling on the courage which enabled the man of science to continue his observations without regard to the perils of the climb. It is a very human and characteristic document. We recognize our old friend the Precentor, struggling between his invincible vanity and 1 Alpine Journal, 38, 348. 2 Paccard wieder Balmat. Berne, 1913. Freshfield’s Life of de Saussure. London, 1920. See also A.J. 36, 158, where Mr. Mon- tagnier supports me in considering L’Evéque’s sketches to have been the source of all the de Saussure prints. He does not, however, discuss or explain the origin of the version of ‘The Descent’ re- produced by Whymper in his Guide to Chamoniz, which shows the hut on the Col du Géant backed by Mont Blanc.

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Reviews. 201 egotism and his reluctance to break off relations with a valuable patron. Another of the more important discussions in the Editors’ Notes concerns a problem that has exercised many of those interested in investigating the early annals of Mont Blanc: the authorship, and subject, and relations of the series of well-known and frequently reproduced coloured prints which represent the Genevese savant and his troop of attendants, guides and porters, engaged on a glacier expedition. At first sight the evidence in the case appears singularly contra- dictory. Let us summon de Saussure to give his testimony. We quote the official advertisement of the second edition of his ‘ Relation abrégée d’un Voyage a la cime du Mont Blanc. En aoit 1787’: ‘Nouvelle édition faite pour accompagner deux Estampes enluminées qui représentent cette expédition publiées par Chrétien de Mechel. 12mo, pp. 39. Basle, 1790.’ This publication is duly noted in Mr. Montagnier’s ‘ Bibliography of Mont Blanc from 1786 to 1853’ (ALPINE JouRNAL, 25, 613), where Mr. Montagnier makes the following comment: ‘A short notice of the two plates pp. 5-7 was added to this edition by de Saussure.’ This notice has been reprinted for the first time in the work now under review. We reprint it in full here: “Les deux planches que M. de Mechel vient de faire graver pour représenter mon voyage au Mont Blanc donnent trés bien l’idée générale de cette expédition, de la vue de ces montagnes, de la marche et des attitudes des voyageurs. ‘On voit dans la Planche I’, qui est celle de la montée, la maniére la plus commode et la plus sire de se faire aider par les guides sans les fatiguer et. sans embarrasser leur marche. Une perche de sapin légére quoique forte, dont deux guides tiennent chacun une extrémité, tandis que le voyageur la tient lui-méme par le milieu, lui présentant un point d’appui assuré pour le retenir au bord d’un précipice si le pied lui glisse, ou que la neige lui manque sous ses pieds; et il peut lui-méme sauver un de ses guides en cas qu'un pareil accident lui arrive. * La IIe Planche, qui est celle de la descente, représente la maniére de descendre sur la neige avec la plus grande rapidité, en se glissant — débout sur les pieds paralléles et avec le corps appuyé en arriére sur un baton. Les guides de Chamoun se glissent ainsi méme sur la glace vive et rapidement inclinée avec une hardiesse et une adresse étonnantes: ils savent s’arréter ot ils veulent en rappro- chant le baton du corps et en enfongant dans la glace la pointe ferrée de ce baton. Mais cet exercice est dangereux, lorsque la pente aboutit & un précipice ou & unecrevasse. Aussi voit-on un des guides retourné en arriére et prét 4 retenir le voyageur au bord de la crevasse en cas qu'il ne puisse pas s’arréter lui-méme. * Mais ce qu’il y avait de plus difficile & rendre et que M. de Mechel & exprimé aussi bien qu’on puisse le faire dans une estampe enluminée

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202 Reviews. c’est l’aspect de ces déserts hérissés de rochers sourcilleux couverts de neiges et de glaces et de ces gouffres ouverts au milieu de ces glaces éternelles. Ainsi par le moyen de cet ouvrage de M. de Mechel ceux qui ne peuvent pas aller sur les lieux admirer ces étonnants objets pourront sans fatigue et sans danger meubler leurs tétes de ces grandes images.’ Here we possess an emphatic assertion by de Saussure himself that the prints in question represent his adventures on Mont Blanc. This, it may seem, should settle this part of the question once for all. But, if we look to the Catalogue of the Exhibition of Swiss Coloured Prints held by the Alpine Club in 1924, we find a duplicate of one of these views—inferior in execution and with certain variants, it is true, but obviously derived from the same source—described as follows : ‘132. L’Evéque. Monsieur de Saussure, son fils et ses guides, arrivant au Glacier du Tacul au Grand Géant ot ils ont habité 17 jours sous des tentes en juillet 1788.” The next entry runs: ‘133. Monsieur de Saussure, son fils et ses guides, descendant le Glacier du Tacul.’ Of this we shall have more to say hereafter. Turning further over the pages of the same Catalogue we come, under the title ‘ Wocher,’ to a description of two views which are obviously the same as those described in de Saussure’s notice attached to the 1790 edition of his ‘ Relation abrégée.’ The entry is as follows : ‘208 and 209. Voyage de M. de Saussure & la cime du Mont Blanc au mois d’Aott 1787. Publié par Chr. de Mechel en 1790. Grand in folio large, en couleurs, grandes marges, [ere et I]eme planche.’ Mr. Lloyd, an assiduous student and collector of Alpine prints, in an introduction to the Catalogue comments on these prints as follows: “Chr. de Mechel (1737-1817) is represented by the well-known prints of H. B. de Saussure’s Ascent and Descent of Mont Blanc, and the Club is fortunate in being able to show a copy of the rare sup- pressed first plate showing de Saussure sitting on the steep snow preparing to slide over a crevasse. The story goes that when a few copies had been struck the family (or de Saussure himself) objected to what it considered the undignified attitude in which he was descending, so it was changed to the well-known print with de Saussure standing up.’ At this point we may do well to inquire—and we shall find our curiosity easily satisfied by a reference to the list of Alpine artists in Mr. Baillie Grohman’s noble volume on ‘ Sport in Art ’—what were the relative positions of the individuals named as connected with the production of the prints under review. Henri |’Evéque was a young painter de Saussure took with him to Chamonix in 1788, the year of his passage of the Col du Géant. Chrétien de Mechel was a publisher and art dealer of Basle who subsequently rose to considerable eminence in his trade.

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COMIMUSAM A TAN CCD “AIX JO UOlssassod ayi ul yutid & Wor) 8841 “SLATUOAL Na LNVAD ®P TOD NV STI4 NOS 4d LA ANNSSOAVS 9P LOIGANAE-ADVUOHLP NOISNADSV "aAQUaT) ‘alye ZOAIUT, “4

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Reviews. 208 Marquart Wocher is identified as an artist employed by Chrétien de Mechel in the preparation of his coloured prints. How his name came to be inserted on certain copies of them is uncertain. He may have been the artist employed by de Mechel to adapt l’Evéque’s drawings for the ‘ Relation abrégée.’ Let us go on to examine more in detail the history of the de Saussure prints—that is, of the various reproductions of the l’Evéque sketches. Can we produce any facsimile of one of the original drawings ? Here Whymper’s ‘ Guide to Chamonix ’ comes to our help and points the way. A footnote on p. 39 runs as follows :— “The original meteorological observations made by de Saussure on the Col du Géant were published 7n eztenso for the first time by his grandson (Henri de Saussure) in the ‘‘ Mémoires de la Société de Physique et d’Histoire Naturelle de Genéve ”’ in 1891. . . The Mémoires have as frontispiece a photographic reproduction of a drawing which is stated to be a ‘ Dessin authentique retrouvé dans les papiers de H.-B. de Saussure relatifs & cette expédition.””’ Turning to our book- case we find the Observations with their frontispiece. Here we undoubtedly have under our eyes a facsimile of one of |l’Evéque’s sketches certified by de Saussure as of the Col du Géant. It is the original of the well-known print catalogued under |’Evéque, No. 132, ‘M. de Saussure arrivant au Glacier du Tacul’ in the Alpine Club Exhibition. We note at once that it is more vigorous and lifelike than either of the prints produced from it; it may even lead us to suspect l’Evéque of having been 8 young man with a touch of humour; and help us to appreciate better de Saussure’s motive for making modifications in several of the published prints! For in this drawing the savant appears as a somewhat patriarchal figure in a very long coat and a broad-brimmed straw hat, dangling helplessly a prodigious alpenstock over the edge of a crevasse, while his son is represented as a nimble youth, the guides and porters are characteristic figures, and the ice scenery is for the date free from gross exaggeration [see illustration]. The engraved print has other differences from the drawing in detail and in the order of the little procession, but their connexion is indisputable. We come now to print No. 133, ‘‘M. de Saussure descendant le Glacier du Tacul.”” The plate is signed “H. |’Evéque delin. et sculpsit.’” Having regard to the use of Tacul in its title, it may be as well to remind readers of a sentence in one of de Saussure’s letters to his wife from the Col du Géant [Freshficld’s ‘ Vie de de Saussure,’ French Edition, p. 229]: ‘ J’ai rebaptisé cette Montagne lui 6tant le nom du Tacul, qui est & sept lieues de 1a, tandis qu'il y a tout auprés la magnifique Aiguille du Géant, que l’on voit depuis Genthod.’ Despite the failure to recognize the new nomenclature, the locality represented is not open to any doubt. In the foreground is a glacier pool from which a guide is drinking. The two de Saussures

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204 Reviews. are shown sauntering down a perilously steep snowslope, while some guides linger behind, where in the middle distance de Saussure’s hut and tent are visible on the Col itself. A white dome in the background stands for Mont Blanc [compare Théodore de Saussure’s view published in the ‘ Voyages’]. Far below is seen a straight valley with a church on the left bank of the torrent. No valley is visible on the Savoy side from the Col du Géant; this, therefore, must be intended for the Val d’Aosta and Courmayeur. The second print of ‘ The Descent,’ that published by Chrétien de Mechel, represents a party descending a crevassed glacier. This is the print the two versions of which are described in Mr. Lloyd’s Introductory Note to the Club Exhibition. The rare ‘ suppressed ’ print, a copy of which is possessed by Mr. Lloyd, shows de Saussure, flat on his back with snow-white hair and the tails of a scarlet coat flying out behind him, while he is being held by a guide from sliding into a crevasse. We do not wonder at the savant’s insistence on its modification! Since de Saussure did not descend the Glacier du Tacul, but went down the rocks on the Italian side to Courmayeur, the print before us can have no connexion with the Col du Géant expedition. Its origin must have been independent. We venture to suggest the following explanation: About 1789 de Saussure was assured that there was a pressing demand for a second edition of his ‘ Relation abrégée,’ and it occurred to him to render it more attractive by illustrations. He had at hand |’Evéque’s drawings of the Col du Géant. They had been lithographed by Kellner and published at Geneva about 1789. ‘The Ascent of the Tacul ’ could easily have its title converted: ‘The Descent,’ owing to its local detail, was unavailable. Soa previously unused sketch by the artist was procured, named ‘ The Descent of Mont Blanc,’ and made to serve as a companion to ‘ The Ascent.’ De Saussure sent the drawings to a well-known publisher and art-dealer, Chrétien de Mechel at Basle, with whom he had previously had connexions. There they were engraved and improved under his own personal supervision. As to the change in title in the case of ‘The Ascent,’ de Saussure seems to have felt no scruples. Such, I venture to suggest, was the origin of the ‘Wocher’ prints, Nos. 208, 209, of the Club Catalogue. They are far superior to those previously published at Geneva, and still more to the many copies— or travesties—of them issued subsequently by various publishers at Berne and elsewhere. The apparent contradiction—or confusion—with regard to the drawings illustrating de Saussure’s Alpine feats is now, I hope, resolved, and what happened made clear. The evidence that the artist responsible for the original sketches on which all the prints were based was H. l'Evéque is, I think, conclusive. Chrétien de Mechel was the publisher responsible for their reproduction; Wocher an artist employed in it. D. W. F.

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Reviews. 205 Sport and Travel inthe Highlands of Tibet. By Sir Henry Hayden and César Cosson, with an Introduction by Sir Francis Younghusband. Richard Cobden-Sanderson, Thavies Inn. London, 1927. Sir Henry HaypDeEn was a great traveller. His restless spirit and inquiring mind are stamped indelibly on Central Asia. This volume tells of one of his exploits, the latest and perhaps the most important. Both Hayden and his friend Cosson combine to tell their story of adventure. It is an eminently fitting combination. Together they journeyed through unknown regions ; roped together they met their death ; and now they lie side by side in the same mountain grave at Lauterbrunnen. Their book opens with an Introduction by Sir Francis Younghusband. Introductions often seem out of place; but here we have one peculiarly suitable. Hayden had previously served with Sir Francis on the Mission to Lhasa in 1904. Both were kindred spirits with the same love of Nature and adventure. Both knew what it was to contend with obstacles and to penetrate into the unknown. Then we pass to the journey itself. Hayden in a way was particularly fortunate compared with most Tibetan travellers. He had behind him the Tibetan Government. The Tibetans had suddenly got interested in minerals. Perhaps their country might have hidden resources. Hayden was invited to investigate the problem. Here, therefore, was a splendid opportunity. Hayden took it. Itis easy to imagine what difficulties were solved. Hayden became an official envoy. Problems about transport, paucity of supplies, contentions with officials, suspicious interferences: all these and a host of other difficulties must have vanished before this envoy from Lhasa. The great difficulty of Tibet was overcome from the start. Hayden had the Government of Lhasa at his back. He begins with the preliminary arrangements. This is often omitted in works of travel. Hayden, however, gives many details. He tells what he required in the way of servants, transport, clothing, provisions, sporting equipment, scientific materials. Itisa collection of valuable information for anyone thinking of Himalayan travel. Fully equipped, they started from Darjeeling, followed the well- known route to Lhasa, which they reached on April 26. Two weeks were spent at Lhasa. Officials had to be interviewed ; final prepara- tions had to be made. They saw all that was worth seeing at Lhasa, and give an interesting description of the city. We are told how the Central Administration works, what power is exercised by the Dalai Lama, the nature of his relations with the various Sha-Pés who correspond somewhat with our Secretaries of State. We learn about the institutions and activities of Lhasa, its incredible ignorance, its amazing filth, its hordes of beggars, its pandemonium of dogs. Their explorations fell into two sections. The first was a journey to the North-West which led them on to the Great Central Plateau.

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206 Reviews. The second was a journey to the South-East into the valleys of the Tsangpo and its tributaries. Take first the Great Plateau journey. It led them through a maze of Tibetan lakes for nearly two and a half months. The account of it is an interesting narrative of what is typical Tibetan travel. The altitude is over 16,000 feet; the country is treeless, brown and barren; the cold is severe; there are piercing winds with storms of dust; the empty plains stretch out before the eye with nothing on them but black nomad tents. Travel in such a country is always disagreeable. At times it reaches genuine hard- ship. Hayden’s story is of the type made familiar to us by many explorers. We have the long marches, the difficult passes, the failures of transport, the absence of fuel, the wind-chapped faces, the scarcity of food. Hayden and his party had their full share of it. Their journey took them through the most inhospitable area and over much unexplored ground. The second journey was to the South-East. It occupied them one month. They found themselves in a very different type of country from that which they explored on the first journey. They were now in far more attractive surroundings, in deep valleys with wooded slopes, amongst sheltered villages enclosed in vegetation, on ground covered with mountain flowers. Their route led them past the monastery of Samyé, which, with the exception of Lhasa and Shigatse, 1s the most awe-inspiring spot to the Tibetan. Thus the book will give a very vivid idea of the great variation in Tibetan travel. But far from being a book of mere travel incident, it is full of valuable information on this strange country and still stranger people. Tibet has four characteristic features : monks, beggars, dogs, ruins; and the book has plenty to tell about all of them. It also has many tips about travel which would be of value to a budding explorer. Here and there we have items of interest on the fauna. A number of shooting incidents are recorded, including the killing of three gazelle with a single bullet by Cosson. There is just one thing we do regret, and that is the conspicuous absence of almost all reference to the scientific work. Hayden, no doubt, thought that his own speciality would lack interest to the public who will read his volume. Perhaps he was right, perhaps not. For ourselves, we would gladly have learnt something of how the Great Plateau was built from one who could speak as its greatest authority. R. W. G. H. A History of Ski-ing. By Arnold Lunn. Pp. 492, profusely illustrated. Oxford University Press. 1927. Price 16s. THis tremendous work, really a skier’s ‘ Who’s Who,’ is a tribute to Mr. Lunn’s industry if not always to his accuracy. It consists, very largely, of reprinted articles from this and former ‘ Ski Year Books.’ Criticisms of such can be applied, consequently, to this book.

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Reviews. 207 Winter ‘ Mountaineering on Foot and on Ski,’ pp. 57-112, and Appendix X., ‘ First Winter and First Ski Ascents,’ pp. 459-82, are what we are concerned with. Of the first we will content ourselves with stating that the author has shown great discrimination and care, and the chapter will form an interesting and valuable contribution to British Alpine literature. The illustrations are admirable—as indeed they are throughout the work—and among them is the best portrait of the late Mr. Coolidge that we have seen. Of the appendix it is possible to make many and severe criticisms. The topographical order, E. to W., is in direct opposition to British Alpine practice. The sub-divisions of the Alps are often grotesque, while (p. 453) ‘ Bernina and Bregl’ [ = Bregaglia ? Bergell ?] and ‘Cotian’ (p. 479) are errors too serious to avoid notice; these are accentuated, moreover, by being printed in thick capitals. Mr. Lunn would have forfeited for ever his ‘intermittent’ friendship with Mr. Coolidge. We took the trouble to look up the quoted reference to the ‘first’ ski ascent of the Lyskamm (p. 472), our reason for such petty conduct being that parts of the Lyskamm are possible on ski for an expert in want of a new sensation. Alas, the periodical and page referred to contain no mention whatever of the mountain. We notice with some surprise that the April 5, 1925, ascent of the Dent du Requin was accomplished on ski! The student of this appendix can, if it so pleases him, find countless misprints and topographical errors. The author has the courage of his convictions. The mountaineer- reader, perhaps a survivor of the Golden Age, is still informed that the ‘ skier has contributed far more than the foot climber to the science of snow-craft.’ The naiveté and true enthusiasm of Mr. Lunn disarm criticism ; we wish him well. The British Ski Year Book, 1927. Edited by Amold Lunn. Keith & Hutch- ings. Price 10s. Ir this Annual contains but too little, besides the illustrations, of interest to mountaineers, it yet admirably fulfils its purpose as regards ski-runners. The photographs are of quite exceptional merit and are beautifully reproduced. There is a long report on the Valluga accident of January 1, 1927, near Ziirs (pp. 18-24). It tells us nothing fresh, since, following the precedent of most Commissions, Royal and otherwise, no con- clusion, or rather so many, which amount to the same thing, is come to by the examiners. These latter, through adverse weather, failed to get any further than Ziirs. What relation the non-arrival of a weather report from Munich—in the plains and more than 100 miles distant—could have had with the accident passes our comprehension. Nevertheless there is evidence here and throughout the Annual that British ski authorities are now making a serious effort to inculcate the first principles of snowcraft. We recognize these very sound endeavours and have nothing but praise for their authors.

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208 Renews. The ‘ Examination Paper on Snowcraft and Mountaineering’ (pp. 97-107) is full of interesting conundrums, and we are quite sure that—on paper—we should have failed to reply satisfactorily and would have been ploughed ignomuiniously ! “The First Complete Ski Traverse of Mont Blanc in Winter’ (pp. 114-6)—Mr. Lunn appears justly sceptical as to the claim—is published, presumably, as a warning. No more criminal expedition has ever been described in history or fiction. Weather, conditions, snow—everything, in fact—was of the very worst. It is difficult to say how long the expedition—of which, needless to say, only a minimum was accomplished on ski—may be considered to have lasted. It appears to have begun, from the Requin hut, about April 4, terminating in Chamonix somewhere about the 16th. Death should have interfered early on April 4. Mr. Lunn is becoming the historian of ‘ winter’ climbing, but what are the time-limits for such expeditions? Mr. Coolidge, speaking ex cathedra, once defined to us that a ‘ winter’ climb is accomplished between November 15 and March31.. THE DEFINITION SHOULD STAND. Beforeand after these dates the temperatures, under favourable conditions, cease to be wintry, while daylight in April is aslongasinSeptember. There were many expeditions accomplished last July and August under winter ‘ conditions,’ while we ourselves have seen summer ‘ conditions ’"—at over 13,000 ft.—in February. Again, while on the subject of the ‘ history’ of winter climbing, let us point out to Mr. Lunn that it is absurdly meticulous, and probably impossible, to differentiate between (i) the ‘ first winter ascent of Mont Blanc’ ; (i) the ‘ first winter ascent of Mont Blanc on ski.’ What possible interest is there in the ‘ first traverse’ of the Drus on Kletterschuhen or of the Marmolada on tricounis? Ski or raquettes, nails or crampons, rope-shoes or rubbers—they are all the means to the same end. Mr. Lunn is always a pleasantly ezalté and sometimes a quite humorous writer since (p. 237) we read that ‘. . . very few British runners take guides on full day tours and the majority might fairly be described as guideless mountaineers [sic], for mountaineering in winter begins when one puts on one’s ski.’+ Quite so; then in summer mountaineering begins when one puts on one’s boots; while in winter the streets of St. Moritz, Davos and other fashionable resorts are full of ‘ guideless mountaineers ’ all struggling to maintain their equilibrium on frozen mud or paper-strewn ice. It is true that Mr. Lunn qualifies his remarkable statement with the alarming reason that ‘ an avalanche may overwhelm one within one hundred yards of the hotel’! Well, even should this phenomenon occur, the victims would not be described, necessarily, as mountaineers. The Annual is peculiar in publishing a kind of biography of living mountaineers or ski-runners. It is news (p. 128) that Dr. W. 1 Our talics.

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Reviews. 209 Paulcke (born 1873), ‘ with Zsigmondy, produced the classic book # Die Gefahren der Alpen ’—published in 1885, the year of Emil Zsigmondy’s tragic death. Mr. Lunn is a martyr to his proof-readers. The number of mis- spelt place-names is so great that it amounts to a veritable epidemic. However, we repeat, the Annual is well worth its moderate cost to any ski-runner. Derniers Souvenirs de ? Alpe. By Julien Gallet. Pp. 207. Librairie Payot, Lausanne, 1927. Tus book, a sequel to ‘ Dans l’Alpe ignorée,’ requiresnoreview. We will content ourselves with stating that, like its predecessor, it is one of the most delightful we have ever read and should be in every- one’s library. We can only trust that the title does not imply the retirement of the gifted author either from active service or from the field of literature. The book is divided into three parts, and only in the first and shortest do we find the story of peaks and valleys generally known. There is possibly no mountaineer now living who can say honestly that he knows even a tithe of the glens and mountains described in Part II. All the descriptions are of surpassing interest. The French is classical, the style picturesque yet simple, the tales reminiscent of “Below the Snow Line.’ Where all is so good, it is hard to come across any single portion which we might prefer to another. Yet in reading Part III we find one chapter unique, fortunately, in Alpine literature: ‘En Tarentaise durant la Mobilisation.” This is the most remarkable part, in our humble opinion, of the entire work. The note of coming tragedy, sternly repressed, creeps through the narrative. The actors, men and women of the Chasseurs Alpins, float across the stage for an instant before becoming submerged in the cataclysm of mobilization and war. It is pleasant to read of the kindness shown by our Allies, the mountaineers of Val d’Isére, to three stray Swiss, the author, his wife and Philippe Allamand. Their local guide, Cyprien Mattis, destined to perish near Arras two months later, conducts them to Bourg St. Maurice on his last day at home. At Albertville‘ . . . tout & coup un réserviste, un homme de superbe prestance, s’avance vers nous: ‘‘ Eh! les Suisses, pourquoi si tristes? Bonjour, Philippe. Comment ga va depuis notre campagne & Zermatt?” Tiens! le fameux guide Blanc, dit le Pape, de Bonneval. ... Quand nous lui disons notre crainte de la Suisse envahie, cet homme se redresse, frappe d’un grand coup sa large poitrine et s’écrie: “‘ Eh bien! dites vous qu’il y a encore du monde en France.” ’ 2 A mediocre work steadily deteriorating with each successive edition. Dr. Paulcke took on the editorship of the 4th Edition, 1908. . VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVI. P

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210 Reviews. - Enough. The author and his family take the (somewhat irregular) advice of Caporal Pierre Blanc, and, with some difficulty, reach their uninvaded country. We will quote nor praise no more. It is a work which all lovers of the Alps must possess. The Structure of the Alps. By Léon W. Collet. xii -+ 289 pages, with 12 Plates, 63 Diagrammatic Figures, Bibliographies,and Index. Edward Arnold & Co., London. 1927. Price 15s. By the Professor of Geology and Paleontology in the University of Geneva, this volume is the only recent publication in the English language dealing with the Structure of the Alps. It should prove of value not only to the student but also to the general reader. The story of the Alps as unfolded in this book has only been written through the achievements of a brilliant group of investigators to - whom Professor Collet makes reference, as synthesized by Staub and elucidated by the genius of Argand. When it is borne in mind that the season during which the high regions of the Alps are accessible is extremely short, and that many of the clues to the tectonic puzzle lie high up in the face of almost inaccessible precipices, one cannot but marvel at the progress that has been made in the last quarter of a century in the interpretation of the problems. It is stated explicitly that the results have been obtained inde- pendently of Wegener’s hypothesis, but are a great support to it. It is concluded that a southern continent (Africa or Gondwanaland) is separated from a northern continent (Europe or Eurasia) by a geosyncline of the Trias Mediterranean (Tethys of Suess). As a result of the northward drifting of the southern continent, the sea floor was folded (geanticlines) northwards, forming the Alps. The southern continent not only encountered the obstacles formed by the northern continent, but its frontal part was thrust over it. The two gigantic geanticlines, which modified the original simplicity of the inter-continental geosyncline, developed into the primitive Pennine nappes (recumbent anticlines in which the reversed limb has partially disappeared through stretching) of Great St. Bernard and Dent Blanche. These set in motion the Simplon and Monte Rosa assemblages, while their forward drive originated the folding of the High Calcareous Alps north of the Rhone. In contrast, the Mont Blanc massif is a granite batholith. The Western Alps, there- fore, provide the key to the history of the range. It may be deduced that the Eastern Alps are a gigantic overlap, overriding the Western Alps. The plates, diagrams, and summarizing bibliographies at the end of each chapter are admirably calculated to facilitate the study of many technical points and add to the uniform excellence of this work. J. M. T.

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Reviews. 211 Vette: Ricordi di Esplorazioni e Nuove Ascensiont Sulle Alpi, nei Gruppi del Monte Rosa, del Cervino e del Monte Bianco dal 1896 al 1921. By G. F.e G. B. Gugliermina e Giuseppe Lampugnani, with 58 full plates. Price L. 130, post free, from Signor G. F. Gugliermina, Borgosesia, Prov. di Vercelli, Italy. ONE has to go back to Mr. Freshfield’s monumental work on the Caucasus, with its unsurpassable Sella plates, to find anything to compare with the present superb volume. The authors, the brothers Gugliermina and Colonel Lampugnani,! - were well-known climbers already at a date when the mountains were not so familiar as they are to-day. Much of their work was new and in nearly every case they relied on their own efforts and dispensed with any professional assistance. They consequently learned the craft thoroughly and have well earned their unsurpassed reputation. Their expeditions rank among the boldest of the last 30 years and were carried out with such preparation and consummate mastery that no accident of any kind befell them. Their papers in the Bollettino and the Rivista, as well as in this JOURNAL, exhibit a thorough study of their subject, and, particularly in the Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa ranges, place mountaineers under a debt of gratitude. The present volume must obviously rely to some extent on their earlier papers, but it is an advantage to have them reproduced in this magnificent volume at a price hardly exceeding one-third of that of an English book of its class. The expeditions so carefully described and, one might say, 80 incomparably illustrated, are all of the very highest class. There can be no party able to show anything to surpass them. Naturally most of the Monte Rosa expeditions were made from the Valsesia side where these explorers dwell. They include first ascents of the Punta Gnifetti,? Punta Parrot and Punta Giordani by the E. aréte. On the latter I had, from the Col Sesia route, the opportunity of watching them at work. Their arduous work in the Mont Blanc range is of even greater technical merit, including as it does ascents of Mont Blanc by the Brouillard and Innominata arétes,? of the Verte from the Nant- Blane glacier, of passages of the Col de l’Aiguille Verte—first ae - ee Zt a ay 1 See the portrait group A.J. 33, 135. In some of their later expeditions Signor F. Ravelli, to-day one of the foremost mountaineers, took a leading part. 2 A.J. 28, 82. 2 On this ascent they were preceded by a few days by MM. Court- auld and Oliver, with the brothers Rey, and the Zermatt guide Adolf Aufdenblatten. The line to be followed was settled before- hand by the two climbers and Aufdenblatten, after careful inspection from the Innominata. Aufdenblatten led practically throughout.

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212 Reviews. repeated in 1926 by the well-known G.H.M. members, MM. J. de Lépiney and Jacques Lagarde—and of the Col Maudit. Probably, however, the expedition which exhibits their qualities at their zenith was the ascent of the Aiguille Blanche from the Fresnay side. Success only followed two determined attempts, one by the great couloir on the Brenva side between I’Isolée and the Aig. Blanche, when a blizzard of snow compelled them first to bivouac and then to descend, during the night, the same couloir, continually swept by light avalanches. Episodes like this bring out the inwardness of men ! As to the illustrations, they are, one and all, a dream of delight, whether as pure studies or for their great topographical value. One must mention the exquisite contrasts in ‘Sole morente sul Monte Rosa,’ p. 64; ‘Fletschhorn,’ p. 144; ‘Cervino,’ p. 168 ; ‘M. Blanc from Innominata,’ p. 244; ‘Col de l’Aig. Verte,’ p. 262. The ‘ Aiguille Noire,’ p. 346, a superb Turner effect in black and white, is of its kind the most appealing to one’s memory of similar scenes, while on p. 254 a weirdly ethereal picture of a glacier tunnel I have never seen equalled. The whole work is a fitting monument to the careers of three men who will go down in Alpine history as great masters. The mountains have been too run over and familiarized the last few years for us to expect the recurrence of like opportunities in like conditions. J.P. F. Among the Alps with Bradford. By Bradford Washburn. Pp. 160. Illustrated. Putnam, 1927. Tus little book by a seventeen-year-old American is excellent in every respect, save the title. The very pleasant narrative describes a combined Charmoz-Grépon traverse by the writer, his brother and their guides, together with a cinema operator; the original (Whymper) ascent of the Matterhorn ; lastly, an attempt on Mont Blanc under the most wintry and dangerous conditions. Of the first expedition, it will be sufficient to say that it 1s about the best and most life-like description that we have had the pleasure to read. There are many most excellent illustrations to it, and, of these the best seemed to us to be, the ‘ Mummery crack,’ ‘ Rateau de Chévre,’ the ‘last two cracks in the Grépon,’ and ‘C.P.’ We were much amused at a new name that Mr. Washburn has invented for Kletterschuhen, or crépe-soled rubbers—‘ Sneakers’! It seems very appropriate. The rappel shown on one of the Charmoz photo- graphs is not the right way to employ it, and most people, including Mummery, have found the portion of his crack immediately above the ‘ platform ’ to be the hardest—but that is, of course, a matter for the individual concerned. We ourselves saw the N. peak of the Grépon scaled in a few minutes, without any rope-throwing, by Josef Pollinger in his boots,

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Correspondence. 218 no less than a quarter of a century ago. Georges Couttet was certainly not the first man to accomplish the feat, but it is a method not to be recommended ! As regards the Matterhorn, the account is taken largely from “Scrambles —of course. There are some errors: Croz and not ‘old’ Peter Taugwalder (Douglas’s guide) was Whymper’s former guide and ‘friend.’ The party during the ascent did not, most certainly, move at ‘terrific’ and ‘ break-neck ’ speed between the bivouac and the Shoulder. The accident did not take place on the Shoulder where marked in the photograph, but several hundred feet above. Lord Francis Douglas is inevitably described as “ Lord Douglas’ and the fog-bow illustration is a failure. These are small blemishes in an otherwise most readable account and it strikes us that the comment . . . ‘Hudson and Douglas as well as Whymper were all well-trained in climbing, but Mr. Hadow was not quite so skilled as the rest,’ is very shrewdly and gracefully put. As for Mont Blanc, it appears to have been an exceedingly wintry attempt and the party was hampered by ski. All young climbers break out of barracks, on occasion. In conclusion, the book will give pleasure to young and old alike ; we congratulate the youthful author very cordially, both on his work and the manner of his scrambling. Mr. Washburn is reported to have stated that ‘on the attainment of twenty-one years, he will be waiting on the doorstep of the Alpine Club.’ That door will open speedily in ‘ Welcome.’ CORRESPONDENCE. A DEFENCE OF SKI RUNNERS. To the Editor of the ALPINE JOURNAL. Dear Sir,—I should be glad if you would allow me, in the absence from England of the President of the Alpine Ski Club, to correct a statement in your last issue. Mr. Unna criticizes the Alpine Ski Club proposal form in the following terms: ‘He understands the utility of ski, but dislikes the undue import- ance attached to third-class tests, competitions and downhill running. Even the Alpine Ski Club, which was formed “ to promote mountaineering on ski” is not blameless in this respect. ‘‘ The Proposer should submit his own impressions, based on personal

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214 Correspondence. observation, of the candidate’s ski-ing, his speed, control, his mastery of the turns, and his powers of endurance.” What about his mountaineering ? ’ The Alpine Ski Club proposal form was originally modelled on the Alpine Club proposal form, and demanded nothing more than a list of expeditions without putting any questions as to the candidate’s mountaineering ability. The only additional details asked for were the names of the candidate’s companions on guideless expeditions. Here, too, the Alpine Club precedent was followed. As, however, speed on ski may mean the difference between safety and danger when a winter mountaineering party is threatened by storm or by night, it was subsequently decided to insist on a minimum standard of speed and steadiness. The modern proposal form, which was discussed more than two years ago, and which was finally adopted a few months before Mr. Unna’s letter appeared in your columns, contains the following requirements : “The Proposer must satisfy the Committee that the candidate : (a) possesses the necessary endurance for long tours, (b) has a sound knowledge of snowcraft and avalanche craft, (c) would prove a reliable companion in the High Alps, (d) could be relied on to lead any ordinary full-day ski expedition, (e) is a strong and steady sk- runner, and can maintain a fair average touring speed on long expeditions. It is desirable that the Proposer shall have skied with the candidate, but the Committee may dispense with this require- ment if satisfactory evidence is forthcoming as to the candidate’s mountain craft and ski technique.’ I enclose a copy of the form. Yours faithfully, CHARLES Horpern, Lt.-Colonel, R.E. Vice-President, Alpine Skt Club. ARMY AND Navy Cuvs, S.W. I. February, 1928. To the Editor of the ALPINE JOURNAL. Sr1zr,—Recent suggestions that a schism exists between the Alpine Club and ski-runners has prompted this letter which I am writing, not only as a member of the Alpine Club, but of the Alpine Ski Club as well. It is much to be regretted that any suggestions as to lack of cordiality should have been made, and one cannot but feel that these are due to misunderstandings and misstatements on both sides. Ski-ing and mountaineering possess several things in common, of which the greatest is that they both share the same playground.

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Correspondence. 215 On this account there is no reason why the most cordial relations should not exist as between other sports. No one can deny that ski-racing brings out and develops some exceptionally fine qualities such as quick decision, strength, skill, nerve, and team spirit, and the ‘ pot-hunting ’ instinct exists no more than in any other of our national sports of which we are justly proud. The statement has been made that the average ski-runner knows more of snowcraft than the average mountaineer. If the ‘ average mountaineer ’ is the man who only climbs in summer this cannot be gainsaid, as conditions of snow prevail in winter that are not seen in summer. Undeniably a greater knowledge of snow conditions is required in winter than in summer, and it is due to ski that the knowledge of the peculiar snow conditions in winter has advanced to such a marked extent. The sole object of ski, from the mountaineering point of view, is to what effect they can be used as an aid to mountaineering. Some years ago I gave Canadian show-shoes a trial, but I eventually came to the conclusion that there is no place where a man can go on them where an experienced ski-runner cannot go with greater speed and pleasure, with the possible exception of dense forest. Yet there are undoubtedly places where snow-shoes, by reason of their lightness and portability, would be of greater service than ski, such as mountains where ski must be carried for great distances over difficult ground and worn only on short stretches. The traverse of Mont Blanc from the Col du Midi and the N.E. face of the Jungfrau are cases in point. To describe these as ski-traverses, as has been done when ski have had to be carried for many hours on end, is absurd, for the additional weight of ski cannot but slow down and exhaust the party. It is useless claims such as these that have rendered mountaineers suspicious of ski-runners. Again, on moun- tains like Monte Rosa and the Finsteraarhorn ski are preferable to show-shoes. The reason why ski were not worn on the Mt. Logan expedition is probably due to not all the party being experienced in their use and also to the fact that it is difficult to haul heavy sledges on ski. Mr. Unna has stated that ‘ ascent on ski requires the minimum of skill in ski-ing. Descent requires no more mountaineering know- ledge than the ascent. A quite indifferent performer on ski can descend as safely as the most skilful provided that his mountaineering sense suffices.’ The suitability of ski as an aid to mountaineering depends on the skill with which they are used, and no one, however expert a moun- taineer he may be, can hope to find in ski an aid to climbing until he has acquired a very definite degree of ski-ing technique. That is the reason why a certain degree of technique is insisted on as a portion of the qualification for membership of the Alpine Ski Club. A slow man downhill, or one who cannot manage his swings, is a menace to any party on a long winter expedition and may cause

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216 Correspondence. the party to be benighted. I speak from personal experience. As in mountaineering, the watchword is speed, speed, and yet more speed, and this speed can only be gained by exercising skill, skill, and yet more skill. In bad weather, or down an unknown ice-fall or complicated mountainside, a very definite degree of mountaineer- ing skill is essential, so that the definition that mountaineering only begins when ski are abandoned is not perhaps accurate. It would be better to say ‘ only another stage of mountaineering.’ Fighting down a broken glacier in a winter blizzard calls for greater qualities than the ascent of a great peak in perfect summer weather. Under good snow conditions it is possible in winter to reach the Hugi Sattel on the Finsteraarhorn entirely on ski, and it would be difficult to say that this is not a mountaineering expedition. Un- questionably high expeditions entirely on ski call for a degree of mountaineering experience, but do not constitute more than a portion of the craft of mountaineering. It is unwise to dogmatize on any subject connected with mountains, which are themselves the least dogmatic form of nature. Mr. Unna has also made a statement to the effect that ski-runners follow tracks and that ‘ the indelibility of ski tracks tends to prevent a long qualification list of ski-ing expeditions from proving any mountaineering qualification whatsoever.’ The ski-runner’s obvious retort is that in summer a long list of mountaineering expeditions gained by following tracks, other parties, or the directions of guide- books does not prove any mountaineering qualification. It should be remembered that someone has had to make these tracks in the first place. The immunity of British ski-runners from accident is mainly due to the lack of ski expeditions among the High Alps and to the efforts being made to educate ski-runners in the detection of avalanchy snow. As to the indelibility of ski tracks, this cannot be said to apply to the High Alps, where I have frequently seen deep tracks completely obliterated by a tourmente within five minutes of being made. It is hoped in the future that British ski-mountaineering will be raised to a high level, and the Alpine Ski Club looks to the Alpine Club for sympathy in this task. At the same time, let it not be forgotten that many of those who are only just learning the craft on the‘ nursery ’ slopes of the winter Alps have the true mountaincer- ing instinct within them. My experience of ski-runners has led me to believe that they have just as keen an appreciation of the Alps as have mountaineers, and it is greatly to be hoped that this common bond of the mountains will promote an understanding which will serve in the future to closely link the joys of ski-ing with those of mountaineering. I am, etc., F.S. SMYTHE. ALPINE CLUB, March 22, 1928.

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Proceedings of the Alpine Club. 217 [We publish Colonel Hordern’s letter with pleasure, but would point out that Mr. Unna’s letter was written in reply to Mr. Lunn’s of July 4, 1927, and before any change in the qualification for membership of the Alpine Ski Club had been made public. With reference to Mr. Smythe’s letter, it might be indicated that Mountaineering is practically the only sport or pastime still free from ‘ pots’ or prizes. This is not the least of its charms. Mr. Smythe states that ‘conditions of snow prevail in winter that are not seen in summer.’ This is perfectly true; so is the apposite. As to the ‘efforts being made to educate ski-runners in the detection of avalanchy snow,’ well, such ‘ efforts’ were never more terribly needed than at the present moment. The correspondence must now be considered as ‘ closed.’—Editor AT] PROCEEDINGS OF THE ALPINE CLUB. A GENERAL MEETING of the Club was held in the Hall, 23 Savile Row, London, W. 1, on Tuesday, November 1, 1927, at 8.30 P.M., Sir George H. Morse, President, in the Chair. The following candidates were balloted for and elected Members of the Club, namely, the Rev. William Albert Edward Ball, Mr. Herbert Somerset Bullock (Member 1897-1921), Mr. Douglas Laird Busk, Mr. Graham Scudamore Percival Heywood, Mr. Richard Kay, Mr. Robert Peel Mears, Mr. Philip Harold Pilditch, Mr. Denis Fielden Pilkington, Mr. Charles Robertson Porter, and Mr. Arthur Walker Russell. The PRESIDENT announced with regret the deaths of the following Members: Eliot Howard, elected 1867; Alexander Mortimer, elected 1867; Col. J. W. A. Michell, elected 1882; W. M. Spence, elected 1891 ; Philip Fletcher, elected 1892 ; Alfred Barran, elected 1897; Major H. D. Minchinton, elected 1909; Philip S. Minor, elected 1911; and Raymond P. Bicknell, elected 1911. Mr. H. E. L. Porter read a Paper entitled ‘ Mt. Tasman and its Satellites,’ which was illustrated with lantern slides. Mr. Claude A. Macdonald and the Rev. Canon H. E. Newton took part in the ensuing discussion and the proceedings ended with the passing of a cordial vote of thanks to Mr. Porter. The slides shown were undoubtedly the finest ever seen at the Club. Tue ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING of the Club was held in the Hall, 23 Savile Row, London, W. 1, on Monday, December 12, 1927, at 8.30 P.m., Sir George H. Morse, President, in the Chair.

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218 Proceedings of the Alpine Club. The following candidates were balloted for and elected Members of the Club, namely, Mr. Clement Hugh Archer, Major John Eastman Blow, M.C., R.E., Mr. William Villiers Brown, Mr. Saburo Matsukata, Mr. William McEwan Younger. The PRESIDENT, in accordance with the provisions of Rule 29, there being no other candidates, declared the following members nominated by the Committee to be duly elected as Officers of the Club and Members of Committee for the year 1928 : As Vice-President.—Mr. E. H. F. Bradby in the place of the late Mr. R. P. Bicknell. As Members of Committee—Messrs. A. F. de Fonblanque, R. S. Low, E. F. Pilkington and W. M. Roberts in the places of Messrs. H. L. R. Dent, R. Graham, C. E. Montague and H. E. L. Porter, whose terms of office expire. The President, Sir George H. Morse, the Vice-President, Dr. Tom G. Longstaff, the Honorary Secretary, Mr. Sydney Spencer, and the others Members of Committee, being eligible, were re-elected. Mr. R. S. Morrisu proposed that Mr. J. C. Gait and Mr. J. W. Brown be appointed Auditors to audit the Club Accounts for 1927. This was duly seconded and carried unanimously. A proposed alteration in Rule 40 was rejected by the Members present. The PRESIDENT announced with regret the deaths of Mr. Robertson Lamb, elected in 1917; the Rev. C. G. Monro, elected in 1892; Mr. A. L. Mumn, elected in 1899; and Alfred Simond, the well- known Chamonix Guide, who was for many years hotelier at Montenvers. A very cordial vote of thanks to the Honorary SECRETARY, Mr. Sydney Spencer, for his work in arranging the Exhibition of Photographs was duly passed with acclamation. The PRESIDENT announced that the Committee had unanimously agreed to elect Monsieur le Docteur Henri Faes, President of the Swiss Alpine Club, an Honorary Member of the Alpine Club, and that it would be his pleasure to inform Dr. Faes of his election when he entered the Hall. This was done, Dr. Faes being greeted with great cordiality by the Members present. Dr. Faes received from the President the badge of the Club. Mr. R. OcrER Warp then read a Paper entitled ‘ The Col de la pee : The Aiguille de Leschaux,’ which was illustrated by lantern slides. Mr. George Yeld and Dr. Claude Wilson took part in the subse- quent discussion, and the proceedings closed with the passing of a vote of thanks to the reader of the Paper. An Exhibition of Alpine Photographs was held in the Hall of the Club from Monday, December 12, to Saturday, December 31, 1927, and in connection with this an ‘At Home’ was held on Tuesday, December 13, when some 450 people—Members and their friends—attended.

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Proceedings of the Alpine Club. 219 THe ANNUAL WINTER DINNER was held in the Edward VII Rooms, Hotel Victoria, London, W.C. 2, on Tuesday, December 13, 1927, at 7 P.M., Sir George H. Morse, President, in the Chair. There were present 252 Members and guests, amongst the latter being His Excellency the Japanese Ambassador, Monsieur le Docteur Henri Faes, President of the Swiss Alpine Club, Dr. Gay of Lausanne, Lieut.-Gen. Sir Webb Gillman, K.C.B., K.C.M.G., D.S.0., Col. Sir Charles Close, K.B.E., C.B., C.M.G., F.R.S., R.E., President of the Royal Geographical Society, and the Hon. Mr. Justice Rowlatt, K.C.8.I. A GENERAL MEETING of the Club was held in the Hall, 23 Savile Row, London, W. 1, on Tuesday, February 7, 1928, at 8.30 P.m., Sir George H. Morse, President, in the Chair. The following candidates were balloted for and elected Members of the Club, namely, Messrs. John Francis Huntington, Charles Scott Lindsay, John Lawrence Longland, Ian Samuel Osborn, Seymour James Price, Robert L. M. Underhill, and Lawrence Rickard Wager. The PRESIDENT announced with regret the deaths of Mr. J. H. Wainewright, elected in 1875, and the Rev. F. C. Bainbridge-Bell, elected in 1889. Mr. F. 8S. SmyrTHE read a Paper entitled ‘The First Ascent of Mont Blanc direct from the Brenva Glacier, and other Climbs in 1927,’ which was illustrated by lantern slides. Professor T. Graham Brown, Mr. R. W. Lloyd, and Professor J. Norman Collie contributed to the subsequent discussion, and the President remarked that it was a source of pride and gratification to the older members of the Club that such skilful mountaineering is carried on by younger members. The reader of the Paper was accorded an enthusiastic vote of thanks. A GENERAL MEETING of the Club was held in the Hall, 23 Savile Row, London, W. 1, on Tuesday, March 6, 1928, at 8.30 p.m., Sir George H. Morse, President, in the Chair. Mr. Arthur Hackett was balloted for and elected a Member of the Club. The Honorary SECRETARY and TREASURER, Mr. Sydney Spencer, presented the Accounts for 1927, which were duly adopted, nem. con. A cordial vote of thanks to the Auditors was passed. Dr. Tom G. Lonestarr read a Paper entitled ‘Round about Nanda Devi,’ which was illustrated by lantern slides. Brig.-Gen. the Hon. C. G. Bruce contributed to the discussion which followed, and the proceedings terminated with the passing of a vote of thanks to the reader of the Paper. A GENERAL MEETING of the Club was held in the Hall, 23 Savile Row, London, W. 1, on Tuesday, April 3, 1928, at 8.30 p.m., Sir George H. Morse, President, in the Chair,

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220 Proceedings of the Alpine Club. The PRESIDENT referred to the deaths of Mr. Wilberforce N. Tribe, elected in 1891, and Mr. G. H. Neame, elected in 1903. A cordial vote of thanks to Mr. Sydney Spencer, the Honorary Secretary, and Mr. R. W. Brant who assisted him, for their work in arranging the Exhibition of Alpine Paintings was carried with acclamation. Mr. Epaar Foa read a Paper entitled ‘The new Frontiers in the Alps,’ which was illustrated by lantern slides. The members expressed their appreciation in a cordial vote of thanks. [Owing to pressure on our space, ‘The Alpine Club Library’ has had to be held up tll our next number.—Editor, * A.J.’] Printed in England at THE BaLLaNTYNE PRESS SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE & Co. Ltn, Colchester, London & Eton

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FRANCISQUE REGAUD. 1871-1928.

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THE ALPINE JOURNAL. NOVEMBER 1928. (No. 237.) THs Mountains OF Morocco: THe Hiau ATwas. By JACQUES DE LEPINEY. (Translated.) HEN requested by Colonel HK. L. Strutt to write something on the mountains of Morocco for the ALPINE JOURNAL, I saw no way of avoiding the honour and I am, accordingly, trying to give a general idea of what mountaineering may be like in a country possessing the highest summits of North Africa. Nevertheless the subject is a difficult one, because Morocco, still partially unexplored in its loftiest regions, is hardly properly open for mountaineering or ‘ tourist ’ explora- tion. Very few are still the mountaineers who have climbed some peaks: immense districts, totally unknown, reserve the possibility of many surprises. I apologize, accordingly, for writing from a ‘ provisional ’ point of view ; future events may conceivably greatly modify my statements. Again, we must not forget that the French Protectorate has not yet entirely pacified the Atlas and that in certain parts ingress among the hostile tribes is quite impossible at the present moment. Such being the case, it is indispensable, before describing a few Moroccan ascents, to give a sketch of the general topography of Morocco. By this means, mountaineers will be able to judge of the best parts in which to practise their favourite sport. | To the N., the Mediterranean coast is bounded by the CuHain OF THE Rir, forming a distinct curve between Melilla and Ceuta. This chain attaims an elevation of close on 8000 m. VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. Q

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The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. 228 in some parts. It is separated entirely from the great undula- tions of the Atlas by the Southern-Rif defiles (the lower waters of the Oued Moulouya, gorge of Taza, valley and flats of Oued Sebou), which during a certain portion of the Neogene geological period connected the Mediterranean with the Atlantic before the existence of the Straits of Gibraltar. To the S. of the Southern-Rif defiles, close to Taza, commences the MIDDLE ATLAS, attaining one of its highest points at the Djebel Moussa ou Salak (ca. 8300 m.). The Middle Atlas, it has just been proved, does not connect with the High Atlas, but merely approaches it closely only to wander away again and extend itself to the W. by means of the little chain of Djebilet, to the N. of Marrakech and the Oued Tensift. We now come to the principal chain, the Hich Atias, an enormous rampart separating fertile and populous Western Morocco from the Sahara-like desert districts. The direction of the High Atlas is approximately E.N.E.-W.S.W. from its commencement on the Algerian boundaries (high basin of the Oued Guir) to the extreme Atlantic corner of Cape Ghir. As a whole, it is ex- tremely lofty and includes a number of massifs 3000-4000 m. in height ;. to the E. near Midelt, the Djebel Ayachi is more than 8800 m. Other very lofty summits rise to the 8. of the upper waters of the Oued Moulouya, the Oued el Abid—an entirely unexplored district. Finally, to the S. of Marrakech tower grandly the Djebel Toubkal (4165 m.) and the Djebel Ouenkrim (4110 m.). Further W., again, the Djebel Igdad attains 3600 m. Yet another group rises in the High Atlas itself, not far from the Djebel Toubkal, at the Djebel Siroua, an extinct volcano of 3300 m. This is the Anrtt Atxas, rapidly diminishing in importance before ceasing to exist near the mouth of the Oued Draa. No mountaineers can boast of an intimate knowledge of these four groups, or chains, or are capable of exactly comparing them. Still it 1s quite certain that the most interesting peaks are found in the culminating part of the High Atlas, to the S. of Demnat and Marrakech, largely because they are far steeper and more snowy than any other. Following the example of the Marquis de Segonzac, President of the Moroccan Section of the C.A.F. and who made the first ascent of the Dyjebel Toubkal, mountaineers have kept largely to this part of the group, which has, moreover, the advantage of being within easy access of Marrakech. All have returned with indelible impressions of their ascents. They had started with many

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224 The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. misgivings, little thinking they would find anything of Alpine interest, but they soon had the pleasant surprise of discovering @ new range bearing no resemblance to the mountains of Europe. Everything excited their admiration; the glens and gorges cleaving the slopes of the great peaks, covered with an unusual vegetation, dotted with curious native hamlets; the strange habits of the inhabitants, the flowery meadows of the foothills ; finally, the ascents themselves up shattered ridges or gloomy rock walls so different from those of the Alps. Unquestionably, mountaineers have not found there the shining visions of great glaciers, neither have they had to undergo the desperate struggles, redounding to the credit of Alpine sport, required in the ascents of the difficult peaks of the Mont Blanc, Pelvoux, or Pennine ranges. Yet they have experienced all the joys of marching across unknown and deserted terrain amidst surprising scenery; of scaling often trying rocks of unknown composition by routes affording every scale of astonishing variety. Tur TouBKAL-OUENKRIM MagsiF. The traveller arriving from Casablanca by the high-road debouching suddenly from the hills of Djebilet into the plain of Marrakech, will never forget the scene before him. Below him there lies the oasis of palms and date trees, a patch of green in the midst of the desert-like Haouz, swept by dust-laden and burning winds. From the oasis there bursts into sight Marra- kech, the rose-coloured city, with its ancient walls of pise, its gardens, its mosques and minarets ; while far away and on the horizon glitters the High Atlas with its snowy summits shining against the blue sky—Inghemer, Likoumt, Toubkal, and Ouenkrim. From Marrakech there is another 50 kilometres by car before entering the mountains. The Berber village of Asni, dominated by the feudal-like ‘Casbah’ of its sheik, is situated among meadows and olive groves. At this spot the valley is still very open. The clear waters of the Oued Ait Mizane (or Oued Reraia) flow at a height of some 1000 m. through cultivated fields and thickets of sweet-smelling pink laurels. Near this place a series of glens radiate upwards towards the heart of the mountains. To the 8.K., the valley of the Oued Imminen leads towards the Tizi 1 Tachdirt (3100 m.), a pass lying between 1 Tizi = pass or col.—J. de L.

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The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. 225 the Djebel Angour (3600 m.) and the Djebel Inghemer (8897 m.). Here the C.A.F. has constructed a small hut on the pass itself. The Refuge de Tachdirt (2800 m.), constructed by the Syndicat d’Initvatwve of Marrakech, is also a good starting-point for different ascents. Towards the 8., by going up the valley of the Oued Reraia, the village of Around lying at 1900 m. is attained. Here also there is a hut belonging to the Syndicat d’Initiative. These lower valleys are fairly frequently traversed by tourists who can mount on mule back from Asni or Around to the Tizi Tachdirt. Henceforward, we are in the high, almost unknown, mountains, where still exist many virgin summits. The Toubkal-Ouenkrim massif, the highest in North Africa, is the one which I propose to describe. It must be considered typical of mountaineering in the Atlas since the neighbourimg ranges closely resemble it, while the more distant ones are either totally unknown or much inferior from a climbing point of view. The massif’s most notable characteristic is its rock com- position. The rock, high up, at any rate, is volcanic lava resembling andesite ; lower down, towards its EK. base, 1s found the crystalline rock corresponding to andesite, 1.¢. diorite. These rocks show, however, a certain variety of appearance and colour. Very dark in general, grey, pink, or green owing to secondary alterations, they show in parts much lighter coloured strata where the white straw-like streaks of plagioclase felspar crystals emerge. In other parts appears true vitreous or vesicular lava. But the Toubkal and Ouenkrim volcanoes were active at a very remote period; geologists are of opinion that the eruptions date from the ‘Permo Trias.’ Since this distant epoch, the massif has undergone all manner of changes and has been so enormously moulded by erosion that the present shapes bear no analogy to active volcanoes. I have no intention of holding forth on geology, which my friend L. Neltner, geologist as well as active member of the G.H.M., will describe elsewhere far better than I am capable of; I have only wished in these few lines to point out how greatly the massif differs from those usually visited by mountaineers. The rocks of the Toubkal and Ouenkrim are of a very grim aspect and of a quite special formation. They can often be scaled by very steep walls as handholds are usually abundant although not always firm ; these holds are soft to the touch, and one runs little risk of injuring either fingers or clothing. Snow does not lie continuously throughout the year. From August to October or November, the summits are practically

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226 The Mountains of Morocco: The High Ailas. bare, yet vegetation is not found above 8200 m., except as regards a few lightly-sown plants. The ‘ sub-alpine’ parts are very barren, there exist but a few scattered forests of oaks, thuyas and junipers. The lower flora, between 2300 and 3200 m., are mostly very dry and prickly. In June—July they form a splendid yellow carpet intermingled with pink, blue and white. No | traces of green appear since leaves are practically non-existent. The high glens are inhabited by very poor Berbers, who live on thin scanty herds of sheep and still scantier pastures. These men are often good natural mountaineers and can be employed as porters. However, their methods and manner of carrying are at variance with recognized practice; they go very fast, but stop often and for long spells, and are quite unused to rucksacks on their backs. At first sight, their appearance is repellent, while their want of equipment does not inspire confidence. Their clothing consists of little else besides a great woollen cloak and hood, often ornamented with pretty embroid- ery. On their feet are fastened, about the ankle and instep, soles cut out of old motor-car tyres. A ring of turnips, worn en bandoliére and of highly unpleasant odour, together with the inevitable and ever present dagger in the girdle, complete their equipment. These men, although extremely clever on rocks, or as pathfinders, are useless in cold at high altitude bivouacs or when moving over snow slopes. They were extremely astonished, while trying to turn snow slopes by awkward rocks, to perceive Maurice de Prandiéres execute standing glissades past them. They are very hospitable without being able to offer much since their hamlets are sometimes higher than 1900 m. (Around) or 2300 m. (Tachdirt). One of the chief difficulties for a mountaineer in these regions is the complete lack of any detailed map, however crude. The Moroccan Geographical Service is, however, about to publish a map on a scale of 1 : 100,000, which ought to prove invaluable. The mountaineer nevertheless requires something more accurate in showing the ridges and watersheds, and, for this reason, with the assistance of my G.H.M. friends, Louis Neltner, Maurice de Prandiéres and André Stofer, I have drawn up an approximate sketch map, reproduced in these pages. This map only shows a small district ; it is based on compass points and dependent on photographs for the flatter positions, and on clinometer readings, by Colonel Goulier, for the heights. The chief points (Djebel Ouenkrim Sud; Djebel Toubkal) have kindly been communicated to us as regards both position and height by the Moroccan Geographical Service.

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The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. 227 ASCENTS IN THE TOUBKAL-OUENKRIM MassIF. To give an idea of mountaineering in the High Atlas, I propose to describe a few reminiscences of an expedition made with A. Stofer. September 10, 1927, 05.00. We prepare to start from Marrakech. We are wearing climbing clothes and boots, and carrying our sacks. The heat is stiflmg; a burning wind is whirling the desert dust im all directions. The rose-coloured town is enveloped in a sand-laden cloud. We take the public car en route for Asni. It is not the moment to contemplate the desert scenery succeeding the oasis and date palms of Marrakech. All we have to think about is the protection of eyes and faces against the onslaught of wind and dust. Wecover up our heads. An hour later the first spurs of the Atlas appear, cool and pleasant looking. The car mounts the Ait Mizane valley along the olive-laden banks of the clear Oued. We pass close by the . village of Tahanaout nestling against limestone cliffs ; above are snowy summits. Further on the valley contracts into a narrow ravine; the road is hewn out of the rock. A portal appears, the way opens out and we arrive at Asni. We drink aromatic tea in a native hut while mules are being got ready. 09.25. We leave the last remains of civilization. Our mules, urged on by their drivers, mount rapidly. For long we mount the Oued Reraia, steering 8. Some crops, villages and thickets of maquis are followed by rocky gorges, more crops and woods. At 14.20 the Refuge of Around is attained, 1900 m., situated in an alluvial basin resembling a former lake. Opposite is the village of Around lying against a stone-shoot of moraine-like appearance. Up to this spot we had been moving through little more than foot-hills, fairly frequently visited by tourists. From below Around we have to go on foot into the mountains. September 11, 08.00. Weather doubtful ; with sacks and ice- axes we move further up the glen. After 1} hour’s walk we attain Sidi Chamharouch, a wild spot where the river cuts through a gorge by a series of waterfalls among enormous boulders. The glen turns sharply and becomes very steep. Some traces of a path bring us to the amphitheatre of the Toubkal-Ouenkrim. On the Toubkal side are great rocky buttresses crowned by a shapely kind of tower; we christen this tower Tour de Sidi Chamharouch, ca. 8700 m., and amuse ourselves with the thought that cragsmen may find some fun in scaling it. We move on up the glen. At 12.45 we reach the last pastoral shelters of Ouanoums at a height of some 8000 m.,

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228 The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. The weather is unpleasant, clouds and a fierce cold wind ; is it perhaps snowing above ? We make a long halt and then mount débris to the pass of Ouanoums, about 3500 m., 14.85; the col is on the watershed to the W. of the Djebel Toubkal. A serrated rocky aréte leads up towards the Toubkal ; to the 8.E. is a great steep and gloomy ravine at the base of which glitters the blue mirror of the Lake of Ifni. The scene is far different from an Alpine point of view at this time of the year or at similar heights. There is hardly any snow but the very dark volcanic crags have an attraction all their own, while visibility and the dryness of the air are characteristic of a considerable height. Our plans are still undecided. Cheered up by the grandeur of the view and the weather improvement, we are in the mood for continuing and doing some scrambling. Three French ascents of the Djebel Toubkal have hitherto been accomplished, all by the N. slope. Maurice de Prandiéres and Jacques Balay, followed by Louis Neltner, have, however, accomplished the descent towards the Lake of Ifni, starting from the Tia n’ Toubkal. The finest southern route still remaining is unques- tionably the 8.K. aréte on which rise the Aiguilles d’Ifni. This ridge is a long way from where we are; we hope, however, to attain it by traversing the 8S. slopes of the Toubkal. 15.00. Quitting the little path winding away towards the Lake of Ifni, we begin traversing towards the K. Hardly any descent is necessary. ‘The face is very steep, but the rocky steps are separated by easy ledges on which grows ascanty vegetation intermingled with débris, scrambling being only occasionally necessary. Crossing some couloirs and minor buttresses, we approach the 8.E. aréte. Night 1s coming on; a bivouac becomes necessary. At 18.00, after a steep ascent, we attain a sort of open cave, in which we take up our quarters. A most romantic night! Lying between the overhanging face and the little wall of stones we have built up, we can per- ceive on the open side the wild mountain scenery with its striking outlines, all lit up by a marvellous moon. The temperature is about 0° (C.), low enough to make us shiver and remember the painful bivouacs of the Mont Blanc range. September 12. At earliest dawn, 05.40, we make a fresh start, and, after 1 hour’s march, attain a col in the S.E. aréte at a height of some 3700 m. Soon after a rocky step obliges us to put on the rope. Chimneys and slabs, difficult in places, follow rapidly, but holds are usually good. The ascent is quite ‘big’ now; rocks, snow, no signs of vegetation. The

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The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. 229 arete is a kind of irregular hog’s-back; it consists of high pillars seamed by gullies. The best way is often hard to find. In about 8 hours’ time we reach the summit of the Aiguille d’Ifni supérieure (ca. 4100 m.), the only one with pretensions as a separate summit. After a short descent we come to another steep and rather troublesome step; I can remember one awkward traverse at the base of a perpendicular chimney black as ink, followed by some exposed buttresses. At 10.85 we attain, at last, the broad summit of the Djebel Toubkal, 4165 m. [= 18,658 ft.], the highest mountain of North Africa. Thence, we are able to judge, for the first time, as a whole, of the appearance of the massif and we quickly agree that the finest expedition to be made is that of the arétes of the Ouenkrim, formed of fine rocky teeth. The panorama, of enormous extent to the N., 1s concealed by numerous clouds to the 8. After taking some compass points and clinometric measures, we begin the descent towards the Reraia glen. No detailed description 1s necessary. The Djebel Toubkal by its N. face is a very easy mountain, suitable for tourists rather than mountaineers. Many routes are possible by snowy, débris- strewn or grassy gullies seaming its minor ridges. After 2 short hours of descent the Reraia torrent is easily attained (18.20), then a long tramp by paths brings us back less easily to Around (16.40). September 18. A necessary day of rest. We employ it in drawing in some of our sketch-map and in preparing our plans for the next day. The ridge of the Ouenkrim ends to the N. at the Aguelzim, 3830 m.; between that summit and the Ouenkrim, S. peak, 4110 m.; forming its other extremity, there appear to be opportunities for interesting scrambles up virgin peaks. First comes a pointed tooth, Tadat Ouenkrim, well detached and rearing itself on the ridge, then the aréte rises to the Djebel Ouenkrim, N. peak, 8990 m., reminding us by its shape of the Pouce des Aiguilles Rouges, Chamonix. The following summit is loftier still; it is the Assif n’ Timellilt, 4050 m., connected with the N. peak of the Ouenkrim by a slender and much serrated aréte; we specially note about half way three spires or steeples, conspicuous by their height and shape. From the Assif n’ Timellilt, the skyline falls vertically to a col and then rises perpendicularly to an equally important peak, the Djebel Amgharas n’ Iglioua, 4040 m., followed lastly by the massive, imposing outlines of the Djebel Agoudel n’ Mzier, 4100 m., and of the 8. peak of the Ouenkrim, 4110 m.

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230 The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. This chain has been hitherto but little explored. Balay and de Prandiéres have climbed the Amgharas n’ Iglioua and Balay has also attained on another occasion a neighbouring summit, doubtless the Agoudel n’ Mzier. Our intention is to follow the whole length of the watershed from the Tadat to the Ouenkrim, S. peak. This will most certainly take two days and a bivouac will be obligatory. September 14. 08.00. Stofer and I leave Around by the well-known Reraia path. After an argument with the natives we take one porter with us. A long and weary tramp under a blazing sun to the neighbourhood of the Ouanoums shelters. Halt, 11.30 to 12.00, on the banks of a stream, seated on a damp carpet of moss. Thence, leaving the principal glen we plunge into a steep ravine full of large thistles. Walking is very unpleasant and progress slow, much hindered by great polished boulders well worthy of the vilest moraines. We leave the bed of the torrent to the left as soon as possible to take to some steep grass-grown rocks, where progress becomes easier. From a minor buttress we joyfully perceive a herd of moufflons ; these graceful animals take to flight on our approach with swift and elegant bounds. The ascent is long from the Reraia glen to the base of the Tadat, a difference in level of more than 800 m. However, the arrival on the crest rewards our efforts. Our porter, wearied by his sack and a ° regular ’ march to which he is unaccustomed, seems annoyed. The Tadat (which means‘ finger ’) rises quite close like a sharp arrow, black and polished ; it 1s, however, nothing but a boulder hardly higher than the Aiguillette d’Argentiére. We climb it without much trouble by a steep chimney. The view is fairly extensive, especially to the W.; we perceive far away Kasba Goundafa in the Oued n’ Fis valley : to the E. and S. the view is concealed by the near mountains Tifnout and Toubkal, of massive aspect with but little snow at this time of the year. In fact, the N. face of the Toubkal is dull in summer, contrasted with its 8. face whose savage barrenness 1s doubtless enhanced by want of snow. We halt on the Tadat (14.20-15.00). There is still a very long way to go, but by easy broken rocks we attain the top of the OQuenkrim, N. peak, 3990 m. (15.40-16.15). Thence a fresh view is revealed. For the first time we can study the strange architecture of the ‘ plateau’ of the Ouenkrim ; it 1s a very high mountain, 3990 m., shaped like an immense table, the summit of which is a regular plain of several kilometres

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Photo. J. de Lepiney. Le TADAT. AGUELZIM in background. Photo. J. de Lépiney. CLOCHETONS de L’?OUENKRIM from the E.

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The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. 281 square. The surface is covered with boulders split and broken by frost ; it 1s bounded by a vertical wall. A bent and un- dulating ridge, passing over the Tizi n’ Melloul, connects the ‘ plateau ’ with the Djebel Assif n’ Timellilt. Leaving the Ouenkrim, N. peak, our aréte traverse becomes at once interesting. After a short steep descent we attain the base of a splendid square tower, which we are delighted to climb, first ‘ backing up’ a narrow chimney on its E. side, followed by an awkward traverse over diminutive ledges ; finally, an easier straight-up scramble. After the tower comes . @ Slender and serrated knife-edge, next a more ordinary kind of ridge. At 17.45 we find ourselves in the deepest gap facing the group of enormous spires (“ Clochetons ’) recognized before from the summit of the Toubkal. We put off their ascent and hunt about for a bivouac by descending a couloir some way, on the Reraia slope. Our porter, who ever since the Ouenkrim, N. peak, had left us at times to make long turning movements, seemed very tired. He grew cheerful on perceiving our descent and tried to persuade us to descend very low—in fact, as far as the dry shelters of Ouanoums. Great was his dis- appointment when we halted at the first trickle of water sufficient for drinking and cooking purposes. However, we were determined to keep near the aréte of which we intended to resume the traverse on the morrow. We failed to find a sheltered spot and had to rest content with a stony and damp terrace fully exposed to the wind. Our native, too lightly clad, stuffed himself away in a corner and shivered all night. We were able to sleep a little, but were waked up by the bitter cold well before dawn. As on the slopes of the Toubkal, the temperature is about 0°. To warm ourselves we collect with difficulty a few roots and stems of dried plants and make up a fire. September 15. By 05.20, in brilliant moonlight, we had left our bivouac. Our plans were first to scale the great spires (‘ Grands Clochetons ’’]. As these appear impossible from the gap to the N., we steered in the dawn towards the gap to the 5. Skirting the 8S. and uninteresting spire, we commenced the ascent of the two ‘twin’ central ‘ Clochetons ’—the highest. By vertical but not difficult rocks we attained a kind of window between the twins. This very narrow ‘window’ forms a chimney which can be ‘ backed up ’ and is provided, moreover, with a few handholds. First, however, a more difficult crevice must be utilized. From the first peak, when attained, a sensa- tional stride followed by an upward stretch brought us to the highest summit (06.15). To the N. is yet another prominent

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232 The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. tooth ; an interesting ridge scramble leads us from the gap between the twins to the top. Not much of this had been really troublesome, but, nevertheless, some of the work was really difficult and exposed. Descending by the same route to the 8. gap, we mounted steeply by rocks and little snowy gullies. The angle gradually decreases, while the aréte simul- taneously flattens out and we attain a stony plateau forming the Djebel Assif n’ Timellilt (07.45-08.85). It is cloudless to-day, visibility perfect and our very lofty ‘ Djebel ’ lends itself well both as a viewpoint and place for topographical study. We are still far distant from the Ouenkrim, §. peak, our ultimate goal. Its rounded and snowy top cuts the view to the 8. In the direction of the Amgharas n’ Jglioua the aréte is cut off, a perpendicular wall of 200 m. appearing to block the way. The wall falls away to a neighbouring gap. The way down proves not easy to find and our porter is obviously ignorant of the terrain, because he too hesitates. However, we manage to discover a narrow and dark couloir at the base of which a number of chimneys are available. Here again there are no serious difficulties. At the foot of the couloir we zigzag from one terrace to another, crossing rocky steps and debouch on boulder-strewn slopes at the col (09.10-09.25). The heat combined with a certain slackness cause us to renounce the continuation of the crest-line over the Djebel Angharas n’ Iglioua, the summit of which, moreover, already climbed by Balay and de Prandiéres, does not even offer the attraction of novelty. Dismissing our porter to Around, we set about turning the Djebel. Half-way along this turning movement, we cross, on the Reraia slope, a kind of col in a secondary aréte more than 8900 m. in height. This spot is quite magnificent, situated as it is between the lofty walls of the Amgharas n’ Iglioua and a graceful detached rocky pinnacle, the ascent of which ought certainly to be made. Beyond, over débris, we attain the col between the Amgharas n’ Iglioua and the Agoudel n’ Mzier (10.50). A short snow slope and a further quite easy rock chmb over the very broken ridge lead us to the summit of the Agoudel n’ Mzier, 4100 m. [= 13,479 ft.]. the third highest summit in N. Africa. It 1s a double-peaked mountain, the highest point being to the N., but the most interesting is the S. peak, only 5 m. lower in height, on account of the increased panorama. The Agoudel n’ Mzier affords the finest view of the Toubkal- Ouenkrim massif and the peaks in the far distance.

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Photo. J. de Lépiney. ASSIF n’ TIMELLILT, CLOCHETONS, OUENKRIM N. and TADAT from N. slopes of TOUBKAL. Photo. J. de Lépiney. OUENKRIM S. AGOUDEL n’ MZIER and AMGHARAS n’ IGLIOUA from S.E. aréte of TOUBKAL.

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The Mountains of Morocco: The High Atlas. 288 The Djebel Toubkal is seen end-on along the watershed. Its shape is massive and dark; the angle is moderate on its Reraia slope, but very steep on the Oued Tifmout side. The outline of our §.E. aréte of two days ago is very graceful with the deep-cut indentures of the Aiguilles d’Ifni. Nearer is a steeply stepped peak, the Djebel bou Ouszab ; across a gap we perceive the surface of the Lake of Ifni, farther away again are the cultivated parts of Tifnout and in the far distance the sands of the Sahara. More to the S. is the comparatively ‘ recent ’ cone of the great volcano forming the beginning of the Anti: Atlas, between the high Draa and the Sous. This is the Djebel Siroua explored by the geological authority, L. Gentil. Towards the S.E., the clinometer proves the superior altitude of the Djebel Ouenkrim, S. peak, @ snowy rounded summit inter- spersed with broken boulders. To the N., the most note- worthy object is the gigantic ‘ plateau’ of the Ouenkrim, of which I have already spoken, crowning its bounding rocky cliffs. Next follows the long crest line just traversed, dominated by the Assif n’ Timellilt; the view then plunges into the Reraia glen beyond which rise the ranges of the Likoumt and Tachdirt, with the plain of Marrakech. The general effect is strange ; the strong light playing on the very black mountains gives the most sensational effect—utter desolation, as even low down vegetation barely shows, while woods are virtually non-existent. Having measured a few angles of direction and height, we climbed the Ouenkrim, S. peak (12.15-12.80), over débris slopes and snow ata gentle angle. <A herd of moufflons is moving about at quite a short distance. The Ouenkrim, 8. peak [4110 m. = 18,509 ft.], the second highest summit of North Africa, is of @ very rounded form ; it is obviously easily climbed from every direction. Our expedition ended here and there was nothing more than a long and tedious descent, by the Tizin’ Ouagan and the Reraia glen, to Around, 17.45. Stofer and I were both obliged to return to Rabat without further continuing our explorations. MOUNTAINEERING IN THE HicgH ATuLAs OF Morocco. The obvious conclusions to be drawn from our expedition and those of Maurice de Prandiéres, Balay and other moun- taineers in the Toubkal-Ouenkrim ranges are that the high mountains of Morocco do not most certainly provide any great summit whose ascent is really difficult. There is no question

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234 Aiguules des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. of anything except short and self-sought scrambles. Diffi- culties must be searched for on pre-arranged routes, on arétes or faces providing every scale from easy to impossible problems. In conclusion, more or less everywhere are to be found minor points, towers and steeples, well worthy of notice by cragsmen. But mountaineering in the High Atlas will give wonderful impressions to its devotees. These almost unknown and desolate regions with their varied and grim outlook are of intense interest, while, in early summer, the vegetation between 2500 m. and 3500 m. strikes a bright and cheerful note with all its variegated colours. Moreover, the middle altitudes show glens and valleys inhabited by a primitive race of strangely clad natives living in picturesque villages. [It is our duty to offer our grateful thanks to Monsieur de Lépiney for having found time to write this highly interesting, and, so far as the JoURNAL 18 concerned, unique account. It is much regretted that the paper was received just too late for insertion in the May number.—Editor, ‘ A.J.’] AIGUILLES DES Drus AND LAUTERAARHORN. Unpublished Letters from the late Miss Gertrude Bell. Traverse of Aiguilles des Drus. Wednesday, August 15, 1900. ELL, as to the Dru. We started from the hotel at 9.80 on Monday night, Fuhrer,! Ernest Simond (a guide who has done the traverse) and I. The moon rose as we got on to the Mer de Glace, wonderful it was, the great peaks looking like enchanted strongholds where no man might go. First, Jong beams shot up into the sky, pale shafts of light in the East, then the moon rose behind the shoulder of the Moine, a broken waning moon, and all the snows shivered into silver. We got up to the giie at 1, and I lay down and thought—‘ car que faire dans un gite & moins qu’on n’y songe? —while the guides lighted the fire and heated coffee. At 2.80 we were off up a long steep glacier, the snow pretty hard, a good deal of step cutting and we reached the rock at —— 1 (Ulnch Fuhrer of Meiringen.— Editor. ]

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Aiguilles des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. 235 the foot of the Grand Dru at 4.30. The dawn—well you know what these dawns are like. It came first, I don’t know why, to the great glacier basin below Mont Blanc, as though our Lord Solomon had imprisoned all his fiery jinns there—a pink flush shining, upon my honour, through the transparent ice from x . Photo, G. 1. Finch] Tuk ‘ TRAVERSE’ OF THE Drvs (foreshortened). some flame deep underground. Then the indescribable glory touched the top of Mont Blanc and crept down his sides, and I kept turning in my ice steps to look at it, regardless of yawning crevasses. It was worth being sent to Hades for it. 4.80 to 8. A heavenly rock climb to the top of the Grand Dru we romped up: its about record time. Every sort of amuse- ment—pretty little couloirs, a slide down a smooth face on a rope which we fixed, a swinging jump by a rope which we found (rotten it was) on to a narrow platform, downwards and

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236 Arguilles des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. sideways, a little ice, and then the top. Then we sat and breakfasted till 9.15. The business of the day was before us. Fuhrer, who is the pluckiest mountaineer I have yet come across (‘ I nefar find de mountains tangerous’ he remarks), said to Simond that he wished the traverse were well over. Simond shook his head, and invoked Heaven and I wondered why, in the name of all that was reasonable, I was not afraid. We went down a short ice couloir, and stopped at the edge of the void, the Little Dru smiling at us on the other side. The two guides laid their plans and cunningly disposed the ropes. Then we threw the ends of the doubled rope down into the abyss, tied Simond by another, and he went over the edge and disappeared from sight. Fuhrer paid him out the rope very slowly—I paid out the rope to Fuhrer, hitching it first round the rock, and every now and then we shouted, and Simond answered in long agitated sentences, which we couldn’t understand at all, because there was a double and a treble echo. It was an eternal time. At last Simond shouted that he was down. We pulled up the rope, and tied me to the end of it, and I too slipped over the edge of the rock. It wasn’t at all bad for me. I had Simond holding the doubled rope taut, so that I only had to slip down it, and Fuhrer the single, so that I couldn’t slip too fast. I climbed as far as I could down a perpendicular crack in the rock, then I slipped through a hole and found that the rock had receded about 4 ft. and I was hanging in the air. I clutched myself in by the doubled rope, stuck myself to the receding rock, and scrabbled down on to a tiny ledge in the middle of the couloir, where there was just room for us two. I found Simond green with terror—it’s awful for the first man. He had swung right out over the precipice, and with no fixed rope to draw himself in, he had had to set his body swaying like a pendulum, till in some incomprehensible manner he had caught on to the escaping rock. I shouted up directions to Fuhrer in words of one syllable, and we soon had the sack and ice axes disposed in cracks in the rock. Then came Fuhrer. We heard him scrunching and slipping in the fentes. In a minute or two we saw his feet appearing through the hole, and while we were awaiting his body he shouted down that the second rope, by which he had tied himself for additional security, had stuck and he could get no further. He also remarked ‘I can’t hold her.’ I said to myself, ‘ Now there is going to be an accident,’ but there was nothing I could do. dimond laid hold of the rope, and with fearful pullings slowly,

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Photo. W. F. Donkin. PETIT DRU from GRAND DRU.

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Photo. G. I. Finch. GRAND DRU from PETIT DRU.

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Aiguilles des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. 237 slowly brought Fuhrer down. It was awful watching him slipping into the crack, on and off the tiny footholds. He couldn’t come right down till I had been pushed off: they hitched me on and sent me down the couloir on to a good big Photo, G. 1, Finch) Tue ‘ Z’ ON THE GRAND Drv. is visible portion of route. en invisible. ledge, where I sat for some thirty minutes while they struggled with the ropes. The end of it was that they got the single one and we had to abandon the doubled one, which had stuck at the top. An extremely difficult bit of rock traverse followed, and by 12 we were on the very top of the Petit Dru. We found Mr. Broome ? breakfasting there. He had meant to do the 2 [The late Mr. E. A. Broome, cf. A.J. 38, 406.] VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. R

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238 Arguules des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. traverse, too, but was too late and too tired. I’m thankful he didn’t. Any number over three is a great disadvantage. We should have had to help him and should have delayed ourselves seriously. For we had still an immense way before us. The Little Dru is by way of being one of the hardest climbs here. We had three very amusing hours, a series of little traverses leading to couloirs where we hitched a rope and swung down like spiders. Then three hours very boring rock with a lot of loose stones on it, a glacier—and by 6.80 we were back at the gite. There were three Englishmen there, camping for the Little Dru. They have been at Montenvers all the time. They greeted me with enthusiasm—not devoid of respect ! and gave me boiling water, to which I added my own sugar, and sent me down the moraine rejoicing. It took us from 7 to 10 to get down the steep stones and across the glacier in the dark. I wasn’t a bit tired, but extremely sleepy. Supper and a bath and bed were great delights. Fuhrer is perfectly delighted with ourselves. Up to now no one has ever done this huge thing from the hotel and only one woman has ever done it before. She, however, sent up a party of guides on to the second rock to help her across the traverse.® a 3 [This is not quite correct. The late Miss Katherine Richardson with Emile Rey and J. B. Bich, August 30, 1889, starting like Miss Bell from the Montenvers but at midnight, climbed the Pett Dru, the summit being attained at 09.50. The traverse thence up the Grand Dru was at that time, and until August 23, 1901, considered impossible. Consequently, Miss Richardson's party availed them- selves for the ascent of the Grand Dru of a rope left behind by another party (Messrs. W. Williams and T. A. Nash, with Frangois Simond, Frédéric Payot and Auguste Cupelin who, starting at the same time, had attained the summit of the Grand Dru at 09.55), with whom Miss Richardson had arranged the combined traverse. Owing to the spare rope, employed for the descent and ascent of the Grand Dru, hitching up when released from the top by Miss Richardson’s party, the ‘ male’ party was forced to bivouac on the descent of the Petit Dru, but Miss Richardson attained the Montenvers the same night, at 22.15, an expedition of 224 hours, compared to Miss Bell’s 244 hours; A.J. 14, 511-12. There are now three possible lines of ascent—without extraneous aid—from the bréche between the peaks up the Grand Dru. (1) By the N. face, August 23, 1901, Monsieur E. Fontaine with Joseph and Jean Ravanel. (2) By the (so-called) ‘ Z,’ September 6, 1903, Monsieur E. Giraud with Joseph Ravanel and Armand Comte.

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Arguiles des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. 239 Gross Lauteraarhorn. Grimselhospiz, Wednesday, July 1902. Dearest FatHeR,—It’s your turn to be written to, I think! Here we are, you see, at the Grimsel. Ileft Rosenlaui yesterday morning, walked down to Meiringen and drove up the Aar Valley. It was piping hot, a baking burning sun—I was thankful to be coming up on someone else’s feet—not on my own. Isn’t it a delicious thing driving up an Alpine valley from the wide fertile parts through all the steep pasturages to the world of rock and snow patches! I remember thinking this one of the most enchanting of places when we were here before—it’s quite unchanged, the same little old inn with thick walls and wooden rooms, in every one of which you hear everything that goes on in all the others! The proprietor has changed, however. He is now lying up with a broken leg, but I’m going to see him presently for he knows a great deal about mountains and is very eager about Hoch Touren. He has a very nice wife who made me welcome. Last night there were three Englishmen here, their names are Wilson, Wicks, and Bradby, and they are very renowned climbers. They do most things without guides (though they had three with them here “) and when I heard them talk I felt that that was the only climbing worth mentioning and we don’t come in anywhere ! We are going up this afternoon to the Pavilion Dollfuss, where we intend to pass half the night and from whence we shall set off at midnight for the aréte between the Lauteraar- horn and the Schreckhorn. I feel quite doubtful as to whether we shall manage it. It has been tried several times and never (3) By the S. face, June 17, 1904, Captain V. J. E. Ryan with Josef and Franz Lochmatter. Only the Z route is at all advisable. The first traverse, Grand-Petit Dru, was accomplished, August 31, 1887, by Monsieur H. Dunod with Emile Rey and Frangois Simond, while Miss Richardson accomplished the first traverse in the opposite and harder direction. (See Vallot 11, which gives full details; A.J. 18, 409; 14, 511.) Miss Richardson had accomplished the ascent of the Aiguille Verte and the traverse of the Petit-Grand Dru in 3 days from the Montenvers, without sleeping out.—Editor.] * [According to Dr. Claude Wilson’s diary, the date was July 15, 1902 ; Ulrich Almer was the sole guide present, the other two being possibly herdsmen acquaintances of Almer’s.—£ditor.]

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240 Arguiles des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. been done, but we mean to do our utmost. We are making elaborate preparations. We have 500 ft. of rope with us so that, if we must, we can afford to leave some hanging. I am taking up two other guides, Alexander, the younger brother of my two, and Heinrich, the cousin (he is Heinrich II.).5 They go with us to the top of the Lauteraarhorn as porters, so that we three may start for the great aréte as fresh as possible, and having carried up a final meal for us there, they return to the Grimsel and we go on with as little as we can possibly take. The ropes are a good big load. Iam looking forward to it with the greatest excitement, and whether we succeed or not I expect we shall have an amusing time. Our plans are, of course, the deepest secret! I never know why, but to wrap yourself up in a mystery appears to be the correct thing to do. Meantime Fraulein Kuntze went to Grindelwald yesterday, having telegraphed for guides, and my two are persuaded that she is bent on the same expedition from the other side. I shall laugh if we meet her half way across the aréte, but I shall not be at all surprised.® Jules Mathon’ is dead! I saw it in one of my Dauphiné climbing papers. | Isn’t it awful about the campanile of St. Mark’s? I’m so glad we went to the top of it before it fell down ! liver your very affectionate daughter, GERTRUDE. rimselhospiz, Friday, July 1902. Dearest FatHer,—Looked at with the eye of the fair critic I think I may almost say that I spent the nastiest day of my life yesterday. That’s why I am writing to you from here again. We started out on Wednesday afternoon and walked up the beautiful Aar Valley and the long moraine of the Unteraar Glacier to the Pavilion Dollfuss. The weather was shaky, the glass going down a little—we ought to have known better. We were very cheerful, for I was amused at going up to a new hut and delighted by the exquisiteness of the flowers. Isn’t it odd how the whole flora changes from one valley to another. At Rosenlaui the butterwort is all white, here it is all blue and 5 [See “ Correspondence’ at the end of this number.] 6 [Which is exactly what happened eventually. A.J. 38, 299.] 7 [Miss Bell’s leading guide in her 1899 Dauphiné expeditions. |

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‘AH 94} Wolf NYOHMOHUHOS Puke NYOHUVVUALAVI "UlyUod “Af “AA °OJOUT

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‘NMOHUVVUALAVT 947 Woy FOCIN NYOHUVVUALNVI-NUOHMOAUHOS PL SAK *y ‘Ojoud J, py

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Arguiules des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. 241 in such quantities that it looks like beds of violets. There is a different kind of primula and a lovely yellow anemone. I found high up lots of androsace, white and pink and purple, and the soldanella was pushing its lovely little blue head through the edges of the late nivis. We were sixteen people ina tiny hut! I was rather horrified to see such crowds, but Ulrich by some skilful persuasion packed most of them off into a kind of hayloft in the roof and there were only six or seven left to share the ordinary planksand hay. Ihad four guides with me carrying all the ropes and three days’ pro- visions—this last because we thought we might possibly be benighted on the aréte. You may imagine that it was rather an expensive expedition ! In the night we had a heavy thunderstorm but by 2 it was quite fair and at 8 we set out—ill-fated ones! Now the Lauteraarhorn, from the top of which our work was to begin, is the dullest and most tedious mountain I have ever been on. We walked up the glacier for 8 hours, the snow was soft and very heavy going, but we were encouraged by the most exquisite sunrise and by watching the pink light slip down the shoulders of the Finsteraarhorn in front of us. So did the mountain gods mock us. Having done with the glacier, you go up steep snow slopes and rotten rocks till you drop. We got to the saddle at 8.80, I feeling half dead, and break- fasted there. And there we saw a roll or two of clouds down in the west and looked at it with detached interest. At 9 we started up the aréte to the summit. It was made by the devil and is one of his happiest inspirations. There is no glory to be had in climbing it, but 1t breaks your heart. Gendarme after gendarme, snow corniche after snow corniche, up and down you toil and the Lauteraarhorn slides gracefully away from you and is never any nearer than it was before. We hadn’t been more than half an hour on the aréte when the mists swirled up and enclosed us and in another quarter of an hour it was snowing. After 2 hours of this miserable work we sat down on the wet rocks to think things over. I lay straight out on a stone with the snow falling on to my face and in a second was so fast asleep that when Ulrich spoke to me I couldn’t think where we were. We ended by deciding to go on till we found some place where we could get a little shelter and then to lunch. About 5 minutes from the top we saw some narrow ledges on the sheltered side—if I may be permitted the expression—of the aréte, and we let ourselves and our knapsacks down on to them. They were far from commodious, the water dropped on to us and the

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242 Aiguilles des Drus and Lauteraarhorn. snow swept in on us, still we succeeded in boiling a small spirit lamp we had with us and in making some tea, which was most blessed. Then with superhuman persistence, Ulrich, Heinrich, and I crawled to the top of the mountain and deposited our visiting cards in a bottle we found there, an absurd ceremony they always insist on. As you can never read the cards when they are once inside, and as anyway the bottle soon gets filled up with rain and snow, and the cards disappear, there is not much harm in it. Of the aréte onwards, the cause of so much trouble, we could see only some 80 yds. of rock and snow slope. The rest was lost in a driving snow storm. Of course it was absolutely out of the question to attempt a new thing under these conditions— we turned sadly and damply away from this Pisgah. But the thought of all the gendarmes on the Lauteraarhorn was too much for us, and at the first downward leading aréte,® Ulrich, Heinrich, and I turned off and strode down the mountain without having any idea where we were or where we were going. The other two made the former route, being a little ahead of us when we struck down, and we shouted to them to meet us on the glacier. We went straight down hill for 8 hours—it was 2.80 when we left the top. Wherever there was rock, it went downhill too, wherever there was snow we sank in it up to the waist and it rained all the time—no, drizzled—a wet mist that blinded us. I nearly took a straight cut on to the glacier, for I slipped on a bit of iced rock into a snow gully till the rope fortunately caught me. We allcut our hands over that incident, but it was otherwise the most comfortable part of the descent. After some years we reached the glacier; the mist wasn’t quite down on to it, but the rain was. The other two were nowhere to be seen. We shouted and jédelled and whistled, but we got no answer, and at last, as it was so cold and wet, we left Heinrich to wait for them, and Ulrich and I tramped off down the glacier. The snow was softer than ever and by the time we got to the hut (7.45) we were so done that we felt it was out of the question to go on to the Grimsel. The rain had stopped and our clothes were a little dryer and we had left some stockings in the hut, and what was still more to the point, someone else had left some coffee which we warmed up and drank. The others came in about an hour later, to my great relief. We shared the hut with three nice little German schoolboys 8 [Buttress would be a better word, probably.]

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Crete. 948 who were having a walking tour, and sleeping in club huts and generally anywhere where there was some hay. I thought it sounded such fun I nearly joined them. We slept like dead people and woke this morning at 6 to find it, need I say ? peerless, exquisite weather! It really is too provoking. If we had been a day later we should have done it—for I think we shall do it under favourable conditions—and now it is all to be begun over again. Not from this side though. On one point we are all agreed and that is that we will not walk up the Lauteraarhorn again from Grimsel, so to-morrow we go down to Grindelwald and try it from there.® A great advantage in that scheme is that we get up to a hut much nearer the top and need not take extra guides—at least I shall only take a porter, as far as the hut. Some inspiration made the Rosenlaui people send on my letters here, so that to-day I got a good batch from you and Elsa and Moll. . . . I hope you are having a pleasant summer meeting and I much regret that I should be unfortunately absent. But mountains are fine places and I am really enjoying myself immensely in spite of misfortunes. Perhaps you had better write to Grindelwald for the present—Hotel Bar. Ever your very affectionate daughter, GERTRUDE. (To be continued.) CRETE. (1925, 1926, 1927.) 3 By G. P. BAKER. d hase majority of travellers who visit the island of Crete go there to study its antiquities. The School of Archaeology of Athens, recently established at Candia through the bene- ficence of Sir Arthur Evans, has added an attraction to the island; this with the Museum, where a rich collection of treasure is carefully preserved, afford students an opportunity ® [Miss Bell achieved the first Lauteraarhorn-Schreckhorn traverse on July 24, 1902. A.J. 88, 298 and Bernese Oberland Climbers’ . Guide. Lady Bell cannot, unfortunately, trace any letter containing an account— Editor. ] 1 See Map at the end of this volume.

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944 Crete, of studying its antiquities, and of learning something of a people who lived 5000 years ago and who, at a later period under King Minos, imposed authority on Athens. At Knossos, Hagia Theka, and Hagia Triada we saw the ruins of temples and cities which hummed with life thousands of years ago. The island and museum show traces of occupation of more modern times, when Saracen, Venetian, or Turk in turn took possession and ruled or misruled. For the last three centuries Crete has been subject to the Ottoman ; for the last century it has been subject to revolution after revolution, until in 1914 it was freed and now forms part of the Republic of Greece. This is as it should be, for Cretans are allied in race, religion, language, and tradition to the Greeks, and now have an opportunity of developing the natural resources of their island, freed of misgovernment and continual strife against a foreign ruling minority. There are now no Turks on the island; by the Treaty of Lausanne they were deported, and have been replaced by 80,000 Greeks from Asia Minor. I must confess that, interesting as all these matters are, it was not any classical enthusiasm or desire to add to my know- ledge of Eastern politics and quarrels that led me to spend a third summer holiday in Crete: it was rather with keenness to discover on its hills some new rock plants and to study its flora. Arduous scrambles on hills and mountains are now & pleasure departed : I live in the retrospect of the past. This new recreation of plant hunting has a wonderful fascination and romance. When one can add to it camp life and an opportunity of learning something of the people of the country, it is all the more delightful. I found it so. My first visit to the island was in the early summer of 1925. I went on a pioneer visit to see its possibilities for future holidays. Landing at Canea by a Greek passenger steamer from the Piraeus, I found the hotel of Trevor Battye’s days had changed hands ; under new management its insanitary condi- tion and numerous indications of Oriental discomfort drove me away. I decided to give it a miss, so re-eembarked and pro- ceeded to Candia, where, with my letter of introduction to the Consul, I received hospitality. From Candia my first journey to Mt. Ida was made. My second trip to Canea was with Mr. Hiatt Baker in the autumn of 1926. On this occasion Mr. Shirley Atchley, that indefatigable walker and ardent plant collector of the British Legation at Athens, gave us a letter to his Greek companion,

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Crete. 945 a retired Major of Police. Major Bonakis made us welcome and placed an empty room in his house at our disposal ; later, he acted as our guide. At his home our servant, an Italian whom we had engaged in Athens, prepared our breakfast ; all other meals whilst in the town were taken at one of the restaurants ; this is the custom, for no hotels provide meals. My third visit to Crete was with my brother Arthur in the spring of 1927, so that I have visited the island in April, May, July, September, and October. Apart from comfort, the most delightful time is in spring, for the flora is then at its best. Crete is the first of the Aegean islands one approaches from the W. It is approximately 165 miles long, 12 miles across in the narrowest part, and 85 miles in its widest section. In area it is about the size of Corsica. Long before we reached the island the White Mountains were plainly visible. Hill above hill rises from the plateau zone and forms one whole massif; dotted here and there are pretty villages and many- coloured fields, the setting affording a beautiful background to the town of Canea, with its small harbour, Venetian fortifica- tions and lighthouse. Far to the E. the pink-tinted cone of Mt. Ida was just visible, its upper slopes snow-covered. Viewing the island on its southern side from the deck of a P. & O. steamer, when the route from Brindisi to Port Said took one a few miles from the coast, one is impressed with its backbone of mountains extending the whole length of the island, with cuttings and gaps here and there in its system. On closer examination, when seen from the summit of Mt. Ida in the centre of the island at an altitude of 8000 ft., one finds that the main axis of this backbone is nearer the southern shore. Four distinct groups are to be seen separated by compara- tively low ridges which meet at elevations from 1000 to 2500 ft. The altitude of these hills in each of the groups varies from 7000 to 8000 ft. The summits are covered with snow till early in July ; some of their lower declivities on the northern slopes are filled with snow and form tongues 1500 to 2000 ft. down the sides until much later. It was up one of these tongues of snow from behind the entrance to the Cave of Zeus that I reached the main ridge of Ida. These mountains are unlike any others I have seen. They are the very opposite to those of Corsica (perhaps one of the most beautiful islands in the Mediterranean Sea), where the castellated ridges of red granite set in a maquis of green seem to tumble into the ultramarine blue of the Mediterranean.

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246 Crete. Nevertheless Crete is essentially a land of mountains, with endless variety of rough jagged ground and precipitous gorges to interest the traveller before he reaches the bare masses of limestone rock forming the upper slopes of its mountains from 7000 to 8000 ft. high. The plateau zone on the N. side, hilly and undulating, is chiefly cultivated lands of olive, vines, and carobs or locust beans, with villages dotted either in valleys or terraced on the hill-sides. Many of the houses are whitewashed ; some are painted with that glaring imartistic ‘Como’ blue, the Greek national colour: neither lends itself to artistic landscape. Some of the villages, and particularly the churches, show Venetian influence. At an altitude of 8000 to 4000 ft. the forest zone starts, and cultivation gives place to oak, maple, & few pines, and an undergrowth of scrub, mostly of a spiny nature, such as Euphorbia acanthothamnus and Astragalus Creticus, and, at lower altitudes, Berberis Cretica, Ononts diacantha, Verbascum spinosum, and Poterium spinosum. The many spiny shrubs to be found may explain why men and women wear boots reaching to the knee. In the beds of the valleys where the heat is greatest, on the N. side of the White Mountains, we saw orange, citron, and lemon growing in great profusion and seemingly without much attention or care. A characteristic of the island is its upland plains. There are three, each in its separate group of hills at an elevation of 8000 to 4000 ft. They are enclosed within hills rising from 1000 to 8000 ft. above them. These basin-shaped plains are quite level, and drained of their waters by potholes and passages in the limestone rock which carry off their waters into the bowels of the mountain; thence these by fissures or faults find an exit to underground streams, reaching the sea without any intermediate reappearance. By this interesting pheno- menon fishermen in some parts of the southern coast are supplied with fresh spring water in the very sea itself. Natural drainage forming surface streams and rivers is not in such evidence as one usually finds associated with hills elsewhere. Accompanied by Hiatt Baker, A.C., I first visited the Homalo plain in the White Mountains in the autumn of 1926. We motored from Canea, taking the shore road W. of the town ; it is much used and sadly out of repair, but as we left the main road and followed the well-engineered zigzag track to the hills, conditions improved until we reached the village of Lakkos, where the first stage of our journey came to an end. Our motor was replaced by mules. The approach to the upland

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Defile of ASKIPHU.

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Crete. 247 plain is to the W., across a traverse of hills, with the rocky buttresses of the main group of mountains to our left, and on our right a charming bird’s-eye view of the provinces of Kissamos and Cydonia, with the rich valley of Platanos at our feet. The Bay of Canea with promontories on either side juts out into the nich blue of the sea, richer because of our elevation, and makes a wonderful panorama. After an hour’s ride we turned left into the hills by a rocky zigzag path and passed through a veritable labyrinth of hills clothed with scrub vegetation lacking colour. The drought and heat of summer had scorched everything and turned the familiar greens of spring into dirty and lifeless drabs, which from afar conveyed to the eye a complete barrenness of vegeta- tion; on closer examination, however, although the eye is deceived, the nose detects the aroma of natural oils: this aromatic feature is very noticeable throughout the whole maquis of this zone, which lies at from 1000 to 3000 ft. in alti- tude. Cirstus Creticus, for instance, when bruised was found to exude an aromatic oil; the dejected and lifeless leaf of the Phlomis has its perfume ; the Steachas a lavender scent peculiar to itself; Coridothymus capitatus a fragrant scent of thyme ; whilst the Salvia sederitis and Thymalea each had their own particular fragrance. All these Hiatt Baker and I handled on our way. Cyclamen pseudo-graecum was in full bloom, peeping out of interstices and holes in the hard calcareous rock in which they had seeded themselves. To extract them was impossible ; the corms had shaped themselves to the irregulari- ties and to the uttermost limits of the cavities in which they were growing. The following spring, when on this same route with my brother Arthur, the country presented quite another picture. Then the upper hills were snow-clad and partly verdant with scattered trees of ilex, oak, and pine. Plants I had seen in the previous autumn dull and barren were now in full bloom, to which was added the delicate fragrance of Daphne sericea ; nor were we denied the beauties of spring Cyclamens. We seemed to have struck this route at the psychological moment, for all were in flower. Spring in the East is of very short duration. Buds break into blossom with great rapidity and die quickly ; many which we culled in the early days of April had formed seed-pods when we returned to the same spot after an absence of but two weeks. This certainly applies to the lower levels, but is not so noticeable at altitudes over 8000 ft. When with Hiatt Baker, we reached the Homalo plain at

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248 Crete. sunset and pitched our tent at the foot of a rocky mound on which stood a civil guard-house and a small church. Around the edge of the plain are very primitive low, cabin-like habita- tions built of stone without mortar; they are for the use of families from coast towns during the summer months, the plain being considered a health resort; but nights were cold and frosty, and the visitors and shepherds with their flocks had already left. One visitor only was there to greet us. He was a Protestant Greek evangelist from America with an Irish wife. We visited their quarters and were entertained at tea with a beverage made from an infusion of the dried leaves of Origanum dichtamnus (dittany) and Sideritis Syriaca. The plain is almost circular; it is about three to four miles across; in parts it is cultivated by villagers of the adjoining country, who grow potatos and some cereals. We little realized as we strode along that we were walking over bulbs of crocus, anemone, tulip, and colchicum, but during the following spring varieties rich and rare in all their beauty were revealed to us by the thousand. On the hills around the plain we noticed wild pear trees, Berberis Cretica, an endemic maple (Acer Creticum), and Zelcova, a small tree allied to the elm, which 1s indigenous to the island. It is an Asiatic plant and is one of those interesting links which help the botanist to connect the flora of Crete with that of Asia. It is not found in Western Europe.? We resisted the temptation of climbing one of the neighbour- ing hills, 2000 to 8000 ft. above the plain, but crossed to one of its outlets at the S.E. end. The attraction of this excursion was to see the wild gorge of Samaria, with its primeval forest of horizontal cypress trees buried in its depths, 4000 ft. below. The gorge is known to the Cretans as the Xylo-Scala, or wooden staircase, because of its formidable path zigzagging across @ wall of rocks with a broken face. As one approaches the upper entrance the gap to the gorge narrows; looking from the heights above, this path is scarcely visible. Above a gap in the pass on the western slope are the ruins of a Turkish guard-house ; it is one of the many to be seen on the island. These blockhouses were always placed in positions visible to one another by bonfire. Perched on a pinnacle in the bend of the depths of the gorge was another which had command of the whole gorge. The highest points (7600 ft.) of the White _— _® T succeeded in bringing away several small plants which are now distributed amongst our Botanic Gardens.

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Crete. 249 Mountain range abut this gorge; the gap at the entry is approximately 4000 ft.; the scattered and distorted specimens of cypress trees, Juniperus and Juniperus Phoenicea, showed signs of havoc caused by violent gales which they have at times to resist. In the lower glades of this grove, completely sheltered by the lofty mountains around, we found many noble specimens of the horizontal cypress growing amidst great boulders and rock-débnis. The rugged intertwining roots formed a striking contrast to the upper and very graceful symmetry of the trees. There is a small church in their midst dedicated to St. Nicholas ; imbedded in the wall above the porch, or at each end of the outer walls of the church, are some plates showing early Italian or Venetian influence. The grove is ecclesiastical property and as such we were told that the trees were sacred; but when I saw within a mile a new sawmill, I feared it would not be long before those magnificent trees ceased to exist. We measured the girth of some: they averaged 18 to 20 ft. On the way down, by the side of a spring we met a party of Sphakiotes who were taking a short cut across the mountains to attend a wedding: they were decked out in their handsome national costume of dark-blue baggy breeches, embroidered tunic-jackets lined with crimson silk, and loose slit sleeves hanging from the shoulders. Black silk lace stockings were visible above the knee-boots of either black or fawn colour. All wore a black silk handkerchief drawn tightly over the head and tucked in above the ears. Some of the party carried arms, @ proceeding contrary to the law. Notwithstanding their cumbersome outfit, they came up the slopes with great agility. One of them was known to Major Bonakis as a convict who had served a term for homicide. These men were very representative of the Sphakiot Highlander. Unruly, bold, and fearless, aided as they were by their wild and inaccessible fast- nesses, they were always a thorn in the flesh of Turkish rule. Like the Highlanders of Glencoe, they were and still are cattle- lifters, regarding their tactics as manly sport, creditable, in their opinion, ‘because attended with considerable personal danger. We returned to camp by the one and only route, thoroughly pleased with the walk and the botanical additions we had made. We made several other excursions on the flanks of the White Mountains: one on the N. side through the village of Muries, the birthplace of M. Eleutheros Venizelos, and beyond through the gorge leading to the primitive mountain village of Theriso,

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950 Crete. where snail farming is carried on. It was springtime and fruitful of many botanical finds. On another occasion in the autumn, with Hiatt Baker, we hired a Ford omnibus, and, taking the road to the E., passed through the village of Suda, which still retains on its shop fronts traces of the Bnitish occupation. We stopped on the road to inspect a plane tree (Platanus Orventalis) said to be evergreen; within a stone’s- throw we saw other plane trees of the same species, said to be deciduous. It was impossible to verify the accuracy at that time, but in the following spring, when I visited the spot again, there was no doubt whatsoever of the truth of the statement. The evergreen tree had retained all its leaves during the winter, whilst the other trees were bursting and unfolding their leaves. Crete is reputed to have several such specimens. I know of two, a long distance apart. Pliny, a.p. 70, makes reference to this phenomenon in the following terms: ‘ Nunquam folia dimittens.’ The road from Canea to Rhytimo skirts the southern shore of Suda Bay at Medgedie ; we passed the military prison where General Pangalos was then interned. Across the entrance of the bay and close to the shore was visible the wreck of the Minnewaska, an Atlantic Transport liner of 16,000 tons, tor- pedoed during the war. Her 8000 troops were safely landed. From thence the road gradually turns inland. Passing through several well-to-do villages and a country particularly fertile in vineyards and olive plantations, we reached Frey. Here the road came to an end and mules were called for; pending their arrival we had an opportunity of visiting the church, which, according to legend, is famous for its ikon, said to be one of seven painted by St. Luke. We were also able to add grapes, ripe figs, mutton, fowls, and wine to our stores— wine costing 10 drachmae the oke, which is equivalent to 14d. a pint. It was the best we had tasted since arrival ; it was not resinous, but of a port-wine flavour and quite strong. Shortly after leaving we started rising and found cultivation gave place to the maquis of the hills. Towards sundown we reached a‘ mandra,’ made of circular stone huts about 80 ft. in diameter, with a fireplace on one side. Fortunately for us it was not occupied by shepherds ; we pitched our tent within the walled enclosure. Although this alp, Placa Courta, 4100 ft., was well chosen for camping and for the superb distant view it com- manded (extending over the country to the coast and beyond towards the N.E. to Candia, with Mt. Ida rising alone and asserting itself in the E.), it was too far away from the central

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Crete. 251 group of peaks for us even to expect to reach any one of its higher summits. Accordingly, we confined our scrambles to & more circumscribed area, and whilst in this camp, where we spent two days, the highest point we reached was 5900 ft. on a ridge, which, as far as we could judge, had some direct connexion with Haigha Plevma, the highest of the eastern summits. The main mass lay bare to our view, desolate, arid, and uninviting. Little or no vegetation was apparent, though in fact there are low-growing shrubs, stunted in their growth by the wind. Nine-tenths of the vegetation we saw was of a very prostrate form of Erica barely 4 inches high, with dried blossoms of a brilliant browny-red. Between us and another equally broad and barren ridge was a valley with little or no sign of vegetation. Immediately across, in a §.W. direction, the intervening heights obstructed the view, or we should have seen that this group of White Mountains slopes towards the sea. On that side of the coast, so precipitous are the sides that there is not even a mule track. In an Admiralty survey of the island made by Captain Spratt in 1865, he writes that of the ‘. . . White Mountains at this end of the island there is 8 submarine valley under or rather off it, that is about 4000 feet deeper below the surface of the sea than either the White Mountains or Mount Ida are above it.’ Descending to a gap in the ridge we inspected the peculiar formation of crevasses, which are wide at the mouth and tapering to nothing below, sometimes longitudinal in their formation and at other times horizontal across the mountain, extending over the face of the inner slopes. The limestone is of varying consistency, the outcrops crystalline, very hard and picturesquely formed, with excrescences so sharp that one’s Alpine *boots suffer terribly. These crevasses vary from 6 to 70 ft. in width and from 40 to 50 ft. deep. In consequence of the heavy rainfalls, erosion is powerful in its effects. Frost, snow, and wind have all aided in this formation, but water disintegrating the softer particles has been the most powerful agent. Some trees were growing lower down the slope, between one crevasse and another, which rather indicates that the snow very quickly melts and the water is easily diverted into the crevasse. There are on these hills, as also on Mt. Ida, but per- haps less pronounced, crater-depressions shaped like funnels, collecting the rains and the water from the melting snow ; these pass through underground channels and find outlets in the foothills or into the sea.

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252 Crete. On one occasion, returning to camp from these upper slopes of limestone, we passed over a wide and deep belt of dark shale and schist extending across a bed of limestone, in places very broken up, and so deep that it gave one the impression of the collapse of the surface—just as though the crust of a pie had fallen in. From a distance this belt of dank shale reminded one of the flow of lava. Still another excursion we made from Canea when we crossed the island to Sphakia on the S. coast, through the ravine beyond Askiphu, lying E. of the White Mountains. Our intention was to sail from Sphakia round the coast and call at the haven of Lutro, where Phoenice stood in St. Paul’s day, and then on to the mouth of the gorge leading to Haigha Rumeli. This gorge was already known to me from its northern entrance, as described in the preceding pages of this article. Again we made use of the omnibus to take our whole equipment. Before reaching Askiphu, the first stage of this journey, Bonakis pointed to the village of Vafe on the hill-side to the right, where he was born, and told us that in the insurrection of 1821 the villagers took refuge in a cave which the Turks fired, suffocating all who had hidden therein. Askiphu, 1400 ft., is on the edge of a circular cultivated plain, lying in the hollow of the hills about a mile across. An old Turkish blockhouse built on a high mound stands sentinel above the plain. We were given shelter in the village café, where we set up our camp beds. From here an interesting day was spent near the snow slopes behind our quarters, where various kinds of bulbous flowers were found in plenty. We continued our journey by mule, gradually rising, across the slope overlooking a small valley where below in the trough lay the old mule track. It was here we were told that Yerli Pasha, who landed on the S. coast with 7000 troops, was trapped by the insurgents who rolled down rocks from the heights above. We were evidently In & country of other such conflicts, for lower down the scene of another ambush was shown to us. In this case some 6000 troops coming from the N. were overpowered by the islanders. The altitude at the upper end of the ravine was 2000 ft. at its entrance. Here and there it was so narrow that with out- stretched arms its sides could be touched. Wall-like they rise vertically hundreds of feet above. In places the path twists considerably, making it impossible to tell where the next turn- ing would be. One seemed to be locked in. Looking up, sky and daylight are only visible through narrow slits above.

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Photo. G. P. Baker UPPER END GORGE of SAMARIA.

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Photo. G. P, Baker. CHAPEL IN CYPRESS GROVE: GORGE OF SAMARIA.

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Crete. 258 At times the gorge opens out into an amphitheatre, a hundred yards or less across, with steep sloping escarpments, sometimes with ledges where the choicer plants are seen growing. Again and again the sides were smooth, rounded, and polished, showing clearly the work of centuries of erosion. In places the ravine was paved, and we were told that after heavy rains as much as 4 ft. of water pass through the narrow bed of the gorge. We rambled leisurely downwards, sometimes climbing difficult and treacherous ledges for plants. At one spot where a halt was called near a spring my brother saw on a ledge high up some particularly fine specimens of Tulipa sazatilis, a species indigenous to Crete. He was tempted to collect some of the bulbs and reached the plants with ease, but when he came to descénd by invisible footholds he called for a rope, which we were fortunately able to throw up to him ; this he passed round the trunk of a tree and with its help lowered himself to safety. As we emerged into the open, plants and flowers were more plentiful. We noted amongst the varied collection: Cypress ; Pistachia Terebinthus ; Phillyrea—all clinging to the rocky walls of the ravine; Daphne, Styraz officinale with its bridal argentiferous blossoms of rare attraction and scented ; Staehlina arborea, & shrub with a laurel-shaped leaf, white on the under- side, with a flower like a miniature white Centaurea; Linum arboreum, with a thick stem and amber-coloured clusters. The smaller plants had all.the characteristics of the flora of the Gorge of Rumeli. The mule path skirts the coast a quarter of a mile inland. Near the sea is to be seen a ledge 80 to 40 ft. deep, composed of a marine conglomerate, indicative of a great upheaval which Spratt refers to as having taken place along the coast since the late Roman period. At Sphakia we were taken to the civil guard-house, where at one time Major Bonakis was stationed. The captain in charge offered us the use of his office, where, on the terrace overlooking the sea, we fixed up our camp beds. The ruins of a Venetian castle and towers, the many empty houses, the poor condition of the village shops showed evidence of a troubled past. Formerly a town of 500 houses, it now numbers but eighty families. Once it possessed a fleet of twenty vessels of square- rig; now all we could see on the shore was one small sailing boat. Bonakis interviewed the owner to make arrangements to take us round the coast to our destination, but to our regret he reported that, although the boatman was willing to take us to sea, he could not land us as the wind was against him ; it was blowing from the wrong quarter. He pointed to the sea VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 8

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254 Crete. where, beyond the shelter of a promontory, we could see the turbulent condition of the waves. The fact was that the Euroclydon was blowing, the same wind which drove St. Paul out to leeward of the island of Clauda and which would prevent us, as it did the Roman galley, from landing at Phoenice, lying 8 miles W. of the village where we then were. There was nought to be done but return by the same route— the one and only way. However much I might wish to confine my records to alpine heights, I cannot resist making reference to the country nearer sea-level. No town is better placed than Canea for a faithful impression of the Cretans and Crete. We shall never regret our ten days spent on the promontory of Akrotiri in early spring. The whole wild promontory, from the sea on the N. to Suda Bay on the §., was at its best, gay with a succession of patches of wild flowers, growing under natural rockery conditions in the greatest profusion. In places the countryside seemed to be a perfect Persian carpet of scattered varieties of many- coloured Ranuncult and Anemones. In other places patches of white, cerise, and pale pink Cistuses ; banks of a rich deep amber-coloured gorse 60 to 70 ft. long and from 4 to 8 ft. high, and in the foreground broad masses of a mulberry purple, Lavandula staechas. Bees were feasting and humming with content. We passed from joy to joy. In sunny low-lying places one would come across large patches of the glossy rose petals of Tulipa saxatilis, looking all the richer against their deep green leaves. The calm sublimity of these Eastern cloudless nights, the myriads of stars, the golden rays of early morning, the sapphire blue of the seas, the exquisite beauty of the distant snow-clad White Mountains, with their ever- changing evening tints telling the ending of another day, will always remain pleasant memories of happy days. On this promontory is situated the monastery of Haigha Triada; with Hiatt Baker, we camped under canvas in a cypress grove in the precincts of the buildings. It was an ideal spot within easy reach of ripe grapes and figs and the hospitality of the Hegemos of the monastery. He supplied us with wine, chairs, table, and a servant. We tramped across the hills to the E., descended into a narrow gorge by steps hewn out of steep rocky slopes to the ruined and deserted monastery of Catholicos, wedged within the rocky walls of the gorge. It has many times been rifled in the past by corsairs. It was here that we secured the bulbs of the true Lilum candidum growing on a ledge, relics of the days when the monastery was inhabited

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Crete. 255 200 years ago or more. Dianthus arboreus was growing high up, overhanging the rocky face with a stem as thick as one’s wrist. The sea was below us; at a spot from which we bathed in a tideless deep pool, we noticed the same characteristic conglomerate ledge of rock above the coast line, seen on the §. coast on our way to Sphakia, but in this case, instead of being a 40-ft. ledge, it was 10 ft. thick, indicating that the upheaval I have referred to in another place was less on this side of the island. We took leave of our Canea friends with expressions of mutual regret, and motored to Rhytimo by the coast road. Thence by mule we took a high-level route round the W. and S. flanks of Mt. Ida, reaching our destination at Candia on the evening of the fifth day. The previous year, when Hiatt Baker was with me, we made this journey by steamer. Our intention was to make the ascent of Ida. The road from Candia takes one by motor-car up the fertile vine-clad valley of Melavese, famed for its wine, to & village near the watershed. We turned off to the right and joined a newly made road which had not yet reached the stage of being metalled. The gradient in the descent was steep, with many hairpin bends, furrowed as though a deep plough had passed through its surface. We stopped at the village of Yeryerree, altitude 2000 ft., on one of the 8.E. spurs of Ida. Here we were received by the priest of the village, who acted as an intermediary in the search and bargaining for mules. He expressed a wish to join our party, assuring us that he not only knew the way, but would be able to provide our larder with game. We bivouacked in an olive grove, a strong hot wind blowing all night. The usual route is the mule track, which, traversing the foothills on the 8.E. slopes of the outlying mountains of the main massif and passing by the monastery of Frondisa, proceeds thence through the village of Vourisa. Our cheery young priest, however, led us into the mountains at the back of the village. This route may have been longer, but it was decidedly more interesting, for we rode through belts of varied vegetation and forests, thicker and more numerous than on the other route. We came across a number of charcoal burners with their laden mules, and ultimately emerged through the hills to the Nida plain, whence we rode across to the slopes on the other side above a ‘ mandra,’ where camp was pitched. From our camp we overlooked the plain 150 ft. below us, another of these upland basins so characteristic of Crete. It is

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256 Crete. about two miles across from W. to E., level as a cricket ground, encircled by rounded hills in front, while on each side of and behind us were the steep N. slopes leading to the main N.E. ridge of Ida. | In the spring of 1925, when I first saw the plain from this same site, one could follow the green of this basin into the hollows and valleys between one hill and another. Now, in September, the colour from green had turned to an earthy colour and the lacustrine effect was lost. The plain is a great pasturage for sheep and goats, now bare of all vegetation save the sheep-nibbled turf, so thick and close as to give the im- pression that a mowing-machine had passed over its surface. During the winter months to the end of April the plain is covered with a blanket of snow, which on melting passes through subterranean channels to find outlets in the foothills of Ida. In and among the outcrops of rock to be seen here and there on the plain one may come across an interesting plant protected from the goats by the dense stems of some bush, or by the thorns of a bush such as Berberis Cretica. Some of the cropped spiny bushes were good specimens of the work of a topiarian goat. Near by was a tiny chapel, built at the expense of some religious devotee for the benefit of the shepherds, where at intervals during the day a child from the nearest ‘ mandn’ rings a bell, not for any service in the church, but rather to give the shepherds of the plain on the surrounding hills an opportunity of offering up a prayer, reminding us of that well- known picture, ‘ The Angelus,’ by Millet. Occasional services, we understood, were conducted by a visiting priest. Here also are the drinking troughs, visited during the day by children and women who cross the plain from various camps with their donkeys to replenish their pitchers, for the fountain here is the only source of supply for the shepherds. Above our camp a fifteen minutes walk takes one to the Idaean cave, with its oblong stone sacrificial-altar near the entrance. It claims our attention for its mythological tradition, as being the place where the infant Zeus was nurtured. A steep descent leads to the cavernous interior whence so many antiquities have been extracted. In 1925 the route taken in the ascent of Ida lay immediately behind the camp and we crossed the slopes above the Zeus cave. I was accompanied by a German zoologist who had visited my camp the previous day. He depended on the shepherds for shelter and food, but on this occasion shared with me my tent and food. We scrambled up the steep face of friable rock and

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Crete. 257 gcrees, in places kicking footholds up the long tongues of snow leading to the ridge above. I reckoned it was a climb of 1500 to 2000 ft. Once on the ridge our pace was considerably accelerated by the loose flat stones paving the route for some distance along it. Large areas of the rounded surface of the ridge and all its declivities, small valleys, and crater-like depressions were filled with snow. It was in good condition and added much to the comfort of walking. At the edges of some of the snowfields where the snow was melting we found the flowers of bulbous plants I had come for; they were in all their splendour under the most favourable conditions of sunshine and stillness. Crocuses and tulips, the Chionodoxa (a name so appropri- ately chosen), were bursting into bloom through the very snow itself, and looked like many-coloured jewels on a white field. Ida has its flora specialities, and as to such my finds on this occasion may be regarded as treasures and the object of my quest gratified. My zoological companion was equally successful with his flies, bugs, and other insects ; he stated that he had discovered new species. We were both too absorbed to give thought to the final cone of Ida close to, but as it was getting late we decided to turn back, reaching camp just as the sun set. In 1926 we climbed Ida on mules and were guided to a small valley having its entrance on the same slopes that we were camped on, but nearer the gap to the Nida plain on its southern end. An upward traverse from our camp took us in half an hour to the entrance of the valley, up which we continued to mount by easy gradients. We put up many coveys of par- tridges and a few hares, some falling to the guns of the priest and our porter. _As we approached the head of the valley it narrowed— altitude approximately 6000 ft. Our mules climbed up the left-hand face of a mountain, zigzagging as they mounted, until we came to a mound forming one of the shoulders of Ida, and near the spot where in the previous year [ had turned back with my German companion. We found ourselves within 500 ft. of the summit of Ida, lying immediately to the N.W., with a gap below connecting the two summits. It was littered with stones of varied size. The vegetation, such as there was in the autumn of the year, was confined to a spiny Astragalus, with a few blossoms of a tiny white Colchicum. Seen from our position the final cone of Ida appeared as a smooth surface,

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258 Crete. and so we found it to be. We descended to the gap and began mounting the final slope; it was less steep and less broken, probably the result of the winds sweeping down as with a gigantic broom. The actual summit of Ida covers an open space with rounded sides. Its altitude is 8200 ft. and it is known by the natives as Psiloriti. Fortunately there was no wind. We had extensive views, and could follow the coast line on both sides of the island. The whole range of the White Mountains to the W. is set in a soft and mellowed Eastern atmosphere ; Candia and the coast line in the direction of Suda Bay is also visible. The island of Clauda to the S. stood out clearly in the Libyan Sea. On the summit is a so-called monastery, Haghios Stavros (the Holy Cross). It is a tiny hovel constructed of stone slabs laid one upon the other in the same primitive way as the shepherds’ ‘ mandra’; mortar had been used in some parts of the structure. We had to crouch low to enter the building, and found tapers and Ikons. The building is surrounded by @ walled enclosure serving the double purpose of protection to man and beast from the tempestuous winds so prevalent on Mt. Ida. A well without the enclosure records on a tablet how and when it came to be constructed. Pilgrimages are made once a year when a service is held, followed by dancing within the enclosure. We returned to camp on foot by the terraced N.K. ridge already known to me. We used our axes for digging and invariably found the largest and best bulbs near the foot of some spiny shrub out of reach of partridges, who are fond of them, as we saw from their scratching. Another day was given to plant hunting before we struck camp and returned to the main road by way of Vourisa, Frondisa, and Yeryerree, where a motor was waiting to take us back to Candia. From a climatic standpoint the rainfall of Crete may be classified as belonging to the South Mediterranean region, where during November and December the rains are torrential, averaging half its annual fall; from January to April the rainfall gradually diminishes and is less violent. Then comes the continuous drought of summer. For the next six months it 1s estimated that the rainfall is little more than 10 per cent. of the annual fall. The temperature of the island is by no means as oppressive in summer as that of the Western islands of the Mediterranean.

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Crete. 259 The island comes under the influence of the prevailing cool breeze from the N.N.W., characteristic of Turkey from the . Dardanelles and southward, to which must be added the influence of snow on the mountains usually up to July and some- times later. This wind increases in velocity as the day advances dropping towards sunset. It is the Euroclydon, St. Paul’s wind, which maintains its character to this day. The island is subject to the Sirocco wind, and when this comes the fiery atmosphere is charged with dust from across the African coast, the temperature rising from a normal 70° to 100° F. In cultivated areas this wind is at times disastrous, especially to vineyards and olive plantations. I have not experienced the Sirocco, although I know what it 1s to be caught in a rainstorm on the upper slopes of Mt. Ida. For twelve hours my tent was battered with sand and rain ; at intervals during the watches of the night when there was a lull in the storm I could hear the gods sounding the charge for a further lashing against my squatter’s tent. Fortunately, during @ period of lull I was able to take in a reef by lowering the canvas to the first joints in the upright poles fore and aft. I realized that Zeus was against me—I was not wanted on this sacred hill—so at daybreak, striking tent, I sought refuge in the small chapel already occupied by my men. The wind-swept slopes of Mt. Ida are proverbial ; vegetation 18 confined to the hollows and crater-like depressions called Katavothra, through which, as through a giant funnel, the melted snows find outlet. In one of these hollows sheltered from the wind our party had lunch. We collected, amongst other things, the ripe seed of Prunus prostrata: this fascinating plum is found in bloom in May to June; the colour is a deep cerise and white; the stem—thick, contorted, and stunted— shapes itself to all the irregularities of the rock up which it is growing and never projects above a few inches. Near by we found a large clump, 30 inches across, of Onosma erectum with its bugles of golden blossoms on upright stems. If by chance one finds a plant growing in an exposed wind-swept position, it will be stunted as was the case on the White Mountains. Erica verticillata grows only a few inches high, notwithstanding its possession of clumps 8 ft. across. The same variety, 5000 ft. lower down the mountain, grows 18 inches high. I wish to say something in favour of the Cretans, who from the days of St. Paul have been unjustly maligned. I was agreeably impressed with the inhabitants of the mountain villages, and particularly with the influence exercised by the

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260 Crete. pappa, or priest, of the village, who is respected and looked up to as head of the community. The Cretans are a simple people of sound morals. It is proverbial that no other people of Europe have such a strict interpretation of sexual morality as the Cretan. Jealousy is unknown. Cretan girls and women must, like Caesar’s wife, be above suspicion. Forgetfulness of the duty which the married sexes owe one to the other’s honour is speedily visited with death: the loose conversation and equivocal jokes that flourish where it prevails are unheard of. The Church has an enormous moral and religious influence on the people. We were there during the forty days’ fast of Lent, and it was very apparent amongst the peasants: many did not touch meat or food in which there was a taint of animal fat. Every village has its public telephone and its school, the latter very elementary and, as far as I could judge from benches, pictures on the walls, diagrams on blackboards, cubes, and examples from nature study, much like our elementary schools of fifteen to twenty years ago. The vendetta is stated to exist amongst the Highlanders in the province of Sphakia. The Cretans are very hospitable, as I can testify from personal experience. On arriving in the village of Apothulo on the 5.W. side of Mt. Ida and seeking quarters for the night, we were invited to a private house where we were fed. Next day, on leaving, we were supplied with mules for our journey, the muleteer receiving strict injunctions not to take a single drachma from any of our party. Needless to say, we induced him to accept a present. One may travel throughout the island living on the hospitality of the monasteries, a proceeding adopted by a German gentleman of very limited means, as he told me when visiting my camp in 1925! The Cretans are not without their faults; the chief one apparent to me 1s their lack of resourcefulness. They are poor hands in camp, unable to pack a mule, strike a tent, or fix up one’s camp bed. They are good at giving one another orders, but incapable of doing a job themselves. One is reminded of the Italian saying, ‘ Cinque Grect, sei capitani,’ for they always have been given to garrulity and wanting to assume command. For all this, I like the people, and I only trust that their Church in these days of progress will take a more liberal view in their teaching ; at present it confines itself to ancient Greek, which not one in a thousand understands.

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamonix in 1787. 261 [The Cretan is a great fighter. The ‘Cretan’ and ‘ Archi- pelago ’ Divisions, raised (together with the ‘ Seres ’ Division) for the Entente by that great patriot and statesman, M. Venizelos, were recruited in 1916, while ‘Old’ Greece, still officially neutral, was in reality hostile to the Entente. Both Divisions, alongside of their French and British com- rades, fought most gallantly throughout, notably at the Skra di Legen in May, the Grand Couronné and the Beles Heights in September, 1918. They may be classed among the best of European ‘ mountain ’ troops. The Cretan Gendarmerie in Macedonia was a model of smartness and discipline.—Edutor, ‘ A.J.’] A JOURNEY THROUGH THE OBERLAND AND TO CHAMONIX In 1787. The Manuscript Journal of Mrs. Mark Beaufoy. TRANSCRIBED AND EDITED By J. MONROE THORINGTON. [ 4 FEW words of explanation are necessary in connexion with the manuscript journal of Margaret Beaufoy (1768— 1800), transcribed in the following pages, which has recently come into my possession. | It was originally intended to consist of two parts: a first, descriptive of a journey in the Oberland, and a second, dealing with Chamonix, later in the same summer, 1787. Only the first part was completed in detail, the sole entry relative to Chamonix being the important paragraph concerned with Colonel Beaufoy’s ascent of Mont Blanc. In binding the manuscript, the page on which this paragraph was written has been transposed to the beginning, in order to make it more prominent. In chronological sequence it follows the Oberland narrative. It is not generally known that the Beaufoys travelled in the Oberland, and the journal is one of the first, written in the English language, to describe the valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen. It is amongst the earliest British documents to give a description of the glaciers of that region. The few data concerning the first British ascent of Mont Blanc form an interesting addition to the bibliography of that mountain, and supplement the contemporary accounts of that ascent.

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262 <A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. Mrs. Beaufoy! who, at that time, according to Bourrit, was but nineteen years of age, has entered a careful account of expenses, covering the entire journey, and, prepared against emergencies, includes unique recipes for a worm medicine and a preventive of gout. There is also a short table of posting distances and times between Calais and Lyons. In the back of the bound manuscript there are ten pages, covered over with mathematical calculations, written in pencil, parts of which have become very indistinct. They are in Mrs. Beaufoy’s hand, and represent results of barometric readings made in the valley of Grindelwald by Colonel Beaufoy 1 Etat civil de Neuchétel. Le 27me may [1785], Mr. Dardel a batisé Henritte-Philippine, née le 11me avril, fille de Mr. Marc Beaufoy, ffeu Mr. Marc Beaufoy, de Londres, et de Mme. Marguerite Beaufoy. Parrain, Mr. Henry Beaufoy, frére du pére, membre du parlement, représenté par Mr. Bosset, conseiller d’Etat ; marraines, Mme. Beaufoy, grand mére maternelle de l’enfant, et Mme. Phillipine Régine Bosset, née Sandoz, qui s’est présentée seule. (Extrait du registre des baptémes de Neuchitel, vol. 1767- 1812, p. 175.) Le 5me juin [1786], Mr. Dardel a batisé Henri-Benjamin-Hanbury, né le 23me avril, fils de Mr. Marc Beaufois, fils de feu Mr. Marc Beaufois, de Londres, et de Mme. sa femme Marguerite Beaufois. Parrains: Mr. Jean Beaufois, frére du pére, et Mr. Benjamin Beaufois, pére de la mére, représentés l’un et l’autre par Mr. Samuel de Meuron, conseiller d’Etat de cette souveraineté; marraine, Mme. Elisabeth Beaufois, belle sceur du pére de l’enfant, représentée par Mme. de Meuron née Blaquiéres, femme du représentant des parrains. (Extrait du registre des baptémes de Neuchatel, vol. 1767- 1812, p. 196.) One gathers from the two certificates that the Beaufoys musthave been quite well off and that they were well received by the aristocracy of Neuchatel, which was then an independent principality with the King of Prussia as Sovereign Prince. Otherwise Samuel de Meuron, the Councillor of State, and his wife, and M. Bosset, also Councillor of State, would not have appeared as witnesses representing the two families. For two such dignitaries to appear in person with their wives at the baptism of the children of a young English couple was quite an honour in those days. Mrs. Beaufoy’s maiden name was obviously Beaufoy as her father is mentioned in the second certificate as ‘ Mr. Benjamin Beaufois.’ (H. F. M.]

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. 268 as she mentions in her narrative. It is evident, therefore, that the Colonel entrusted to his wife the working out of his observations, a fact confirmed by Bourrit (in his letter to Miss Craven), who informs us that Mrs. Beaufoy calculated the results obtained by her husband on the summit of Mont Blanc. The end result of each set of figures (the Oberland measurements) 1s, in almost every instance labelled, once or twice (the Wengern Alp measurements) in another hand, presumably Colonel Beaufoy’s, his wife not having accom- panied him at the time. I have summarised the final figures, not with any thought that they may be now of value, but because they are among the earliest known scientific measurements of the Oberland glaciers. : The quaint spelling in the manuscript has been retained. The general absence of punctuation, paragraphing, and capital letters at the beginning of sentences has been remedied in a few instances. The ‘ Dictionary of National Biography ’ (edited by Leslie Stephen) states that Beaufoy’s military title dates from January 20, 1797, when he became Colonel of the Tower Hamlets Militia. He, therefore, did not hold this rank at the time of his ascent of Mont Blanc. The biographer tells nothing about Mrs. Beaufoy, save that the sudden death of this talented lady, in 1800, held up a number of the Colonel’s astronomical results for which she had been making the calculations. This is further confirmation of Bourrit’s statement that she was the mathematician of the family. Beaufoy’s tribute to the memory of his wife is found in his ‘ Nautical and Hydraulic Experiments’ (London: Private Press of Henry Beaufoy, South Lambeth, Surrey, 1834), vol. I, p. xxvii: ‘For some years the calculations were made at Colonel Beaufoy’s residence at Hackney Wick, by himself, assisted by his wife, who ~ contributed no inconsiderable share to the progress and success of the Experiments: for favoured alike in person and mind, being a woman of considerable talent and scientific attainments, beside the usual female accomplishments in which she excelled, she was a good mathematician and practical astronomer, familiar with all the details of the observatory, the calculation of eclipses, etc.; and by method and strict economy of time, while the domestic arrangements proceeded with perfect regularity, she was never at loss for leisure in the furtherance of her husband’s pursuits. But ““ Pauca decet ........ rosaque tabellis Ut bene depicta floris odore caret.”

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264 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. She died in the year 1800 at an early age, after a few hours’ illness ; an irreparable loss to her husband. He survived her twenty-seven years and proved the sincerity of his attachment to her memory by not marrying again. A few hours before he died, he spoke of her with emotion, which showed that time had not caused the smallest diminution in his affection for this estimable woman.’ Mr. Henry F. Montagnier has very kindly placed additional data at my disposal :— Colonel Beaufoy, born a Quaker, married his cousin in Church on August 12, 1784, and was read out of the community. Leaving London, December 21 of the same year, they travelled slowly via Dover, Calais, Lille, Besancon and Pontarlier to Neuchatel, arriving in January, 1785. Their son, Henry Benjamin Hanbury Beaufoy, was born April 28, 1786, in a country house in Chaumont. In July, 1787, they visited Grindelwald. Beaufoy ascended to the Wengern Alp and passed the night in a hut, the altitude, according to his calculations, being 5767 feet above sea-level. Beaufoy was born March 17, 1764. The family arms are painted on a window of Harrow School. An inscription in the tablet room of Stanmore Church, Herts, reads as follows :— To the Memory of Mark Beaufoy, Esqr., F.R.S. Blest with talents as rare as they were useful ; The unwearied attention with which for many years He pursued his observations in astronomy, And the variations of the magnetic needle ; And the zeal and perseverance with which he conducted A series of experiments for the improvement of navigation ; Have enrolled his name on the records of science. To his family and friends, the excellence of his private Character, and the kindness of his disposition, Have rendered his death an irreparable loss. By his wife Margaret, he left three sons, Henry, Mark, and George, And four daughters, Harriet, Margaret, Julia, and Laura. Obit 4th May 1827, aged 63 years. J. Monroz THORINGTON.] [Prefatory paragraph bound in at front of Manuscript. |] This Manuscript was written by my Mother the late Mrs. Colonel Mark Beaufoy. It relates to a Journey made by her and Family to Berne and Chamouni in Switzerland in 1787, and is addressed to her Father in the form of a letter, it gives the exact time my father

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The Lower Grindelwald Glacier, showing the ice cave. (from an unsigned print published by BLEULER.) The WENGERN ALP; (From a print by BANTLLI.) Digitized by

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. 265 started on his assent of Mont Blanc. . . . My Father being the first Englishman who ever made the assent of the Mountain, an account of which was published (privately printed) some years ago in a little volume of letters.2_ This Manuscript I am desirous of preserving as an Affectionate Memento and Family relic. G.[ERTRUDE] BEAUFOY. 26 February 1858. Feeble must every attempt of mine be to discribe the various beauties which adorn Switzerland, nevertheless the desire I have that you my dear father should accompany me in idea through the tour I am about to take, and knowing likewise that your partiallity in my favor will supply every defect of elegance or even in-accuracy, I shall with pleasure devote a few minutes every evening tho after a fatiguing day in order to discribe to you its occurrences. We left Neuchatel on Wednesday morning about 6 and at 12 arrived at Anet a small town belonging to the Canton of Bern which has nothing remarkable in it, nor would have merited mention but for a very good dinner we made there. After reposing the horses about 3 hours (being 18 miles on our route) we again set out from Anet which is the place of residence of the Balliage. After a most charming ride of about 12 miles we came suddenly in sight of Berne, the place of our destenation—the approaches to it are the most delightful immaginable thro long Allies of Lime trees, which from being in flower perfumed the air. Berne is a fortified town and I dont doubt sufficiently strong to ————— et 3 This privately printed volume is not mentioned in the biblio- graphies on Mont Blanc by C. E. Mathews, H. Ferrand, or H. F. Montagnier. It is not included in Martin’s ‘ Bibliography of Privately Printed Books,’ or the catalogue of the Library of Congress. Beaufoy read a paper before the Royal Society (reprinted by Mr. Freshfield in A.J.29, 323) which was printed in the Annals of Philosophy (vol. IX, Feb. 1817) and reprinted in part in Blackwood’s Magazine (vol. I, Apl.1817) and the Annual Register (vol. LEX, 1817). Beaufoy (1764-1827) was at this time twenty-three years old. About 1796 he became well known for his experiments on the resistance of bodies moved through fluid, and during the period 1817-20 was engaged in work on magnetic declination at Bushey, Herts, precisely at the time when the needle, which had been continuously moving to the west since the earliest observations, began to retrace its course. -Beaufoy was also interested in Arctic exploration. See The Possibility of Approaching the North Pole Asserted ... by the Hon. D. Barrington. With an Appendix containing Papers on the same subject and on A North West Passage by Colonel Beaufoy, F.R.S., London, 1818.

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266 <A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. resist the only attacks they have to fear, insurrections of the peasants, but from Mortars, Cannon &c I should fear they would make but a poor defence, being entirely surrounded by hills which command the town. Berne I before said is fortified and has a constant gaurd of 100 Men—300 peasants from the environs are chosen. Each serves every 3 day only, for which he is paid 11 brutz. and 2 lb of Bread a day—so that this alternate change makes a regular gaurd of 100 men, and being all farmers in the neighbourhood they have the two intervening days to follow thier occupations. Having given our names we proceeded to our Inn. I must own the regularity of the streets was far from answering the expectations I had formed. I had heard Berne too highly extoled to be more than satisfied with it—besides the bad politic of our Coachman led us up all the bye streets he could find, which considerably added to the little effect the Town’s first appearance made on me. Except a stroll along the town after tea I may say we saw nothing the first day, but in revenge the following one was devoted to continual movement in visiting those places worth our attention. After Breakfast we sallied forth and the Hospital for the reception of the poor first attracted our notice. It is a vast and airy Building square in which by the foundation are received 50 Bourgois of Berne, 25 men & women, accept in cases of inability to provide for themselves (as folly, Madness &c.), the person so received must have attained a certain age. They are I think as well lodged as possible. We went in to two large rooms containing each 9 beds, all of them headed with dark blue stuff curtains and hangings, with printed red and white counterpanes. Each person (sleeping also separately) has a small wardrobe and one chair and from the cleanliness reigning throughout, the very floors might have been eat off. They have soup for Breakfast, soup Boullie and garden stuff for dinner —soup likewise for supper, with half a bottle of wine at each meal. This is allowed by the establishment: Likewise a number of poor Bourgois are received for the triffling sum of £11 a year, who besides having every necessary supplied them, with a convenient and comfortable Chamber, are exempted from eating at the common table (each eating in his own room) and having also meat twice a day. All poor strangers likewise passing through the town may claim a meal and 6 brutz [Batz, i.e. a small Swiss coin worth 7, of a franc], or arriving at night they have a supper (soup with a 4 Bottle of wine) have a good lodging, and a breakfast before thier departure in the morning—or being sick they may remain there untill cured. This as you see is not properly an hospital for the _ sick but for the poor and strangers; but there is also one, equally superb (if I may use the term) for the sick. Having visited every part not excepting the Kitchen where the cleanliness which reigned really gave appitite, we proceeded to the Arsenal. There can be no room for pompous discriptions of things of this

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz wn 1787. 267 nature in writing to an englishman. It will suffice to say the regularity and order which reigned throughout the whole depart- ment would not have disgraced England iteelf. The Arsenal is small containing arms only for 30,000 Men. There is also a considerable number of field peices and they continue augmenting them, the foundry being now open. Even a stranger sees with interest arms, armour &c. of the army of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgunday who was defeated several times by the Swiss whom he attacked without provocation. His two principal Battels were fought at Morat and Grandson, March 3 1476; at the latter having beseiged a Castle bravely defended by Swiss only. They afterwards suffered the greatest hardships, capitulated on the most honorable terms, when no sooner was the door thrown open to the Victor than He, forgetting every law of honor and humanity—some he tied in sacks and threw in the lake—ignomini- ously hanged them every one. I leave you to judge of the horror this action gave thier country men. Inspired with the double sentiment of liberty and revenge they, at the Battle of Morat in 1476, entirely routed the army of Charles. With the Cry of revenge and Grandson, they animated each other to the most heroic acts, and made a general slaughter. Those who escaped the sword were drowned in the lake, and Charles saved himself with the greatest difficulty by swiming with his horse across it (3 miles). The diamond which he wore in his hat to distinguish himself was found in a field by a peasant who sold it says the old story for a bottle of wine. It is now in. the possession of .. .* He was afterwards killed near Nancy. Here too they show the cords taken at the same time with which Charles meant to have Hanged all the Swiss. Upon my word I have given you a long article on war, an art few women have distinguished themselves in; therefore permit me now to leave the Arsenal and if I have not been sufficiently minute you must attribute it to the little interest of my sex in Guns, Cannon, Bombs &c. On our way to the Cathedral we looked in upon the Bears, 4 of which are keept in the cages round the town in honor of the Arms of the Republic (a Bear). Several tales are told as to the origin of these Armes, but that which has gained the most credit is the following: Berchtold, 5 duke of Zaringen, in 1191, who built the town, had a Castel situated in the middle of a wood in the identical spot where the town now stands. He having determined to found a City said that it should be called after the name of the first beast killed in the day’s chace. This happened to be a Bear—Bere also in German—the Town was accordingly named Berne. We all * A apace is leftinthe manuscript. Thisis the famous ‘Florentine’ diamond, the fourth or fifth largest in the world. A member of the Alpine Club has been closely connected with its recent history.

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268 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. know how little these old histories are to be depended on. However you may place that faith in it you please. I wish it was possible to make you partaker with me of the extream pleasure the view from a public walk called the platform gave me—the most richly cultivated Hills, enlivened by large and comodious Houses built in the situations the most desirable, numerous herds of Cattle grazing along the sloping sides, inter- spersed with small Woods of Oaks and Pines, whilst the Aar (which nearly surrounds the Town) formes at the Bottom, from being dam’d up, a Cascade of 200 Yards in breadth, and tho the desent is not very considerable, it is sufficiently so to form one of the most beautiful scenes I ever beheld. This platform is elevated nearly. .. .4 Above the lower part of the town at its East and west extremities are two most beautiful Octagan buildings com- manding the views just mentioned. A Gothic Cathederal formes also one of its sides, whilst the other two are open to the back View of the town. I must not forget to mention an inscription on the middle stone of the side overlooking the precipice, indicating that a young man, & minister, was carried by his Horse over the wall which is breast high, and that the highth is as I above noted, and they likewise fell together on a pavement. The Horse only was killed on the spot, whilst the rider escaped unhurt. As for the Cathedral we saw nothing worthy the trouble we took in mounting to its summet, except a most amazing Bell . . .4 in circumference. The Library next claimed our attention. It is but small, con- taining but 20,000 volumes. Its principal riches are in manuscripts, for which I believe it is famed. It consists of two long rooms really elegant. The 1st is ornamented with portraits of all the Avoyers (who are the chief Majestrates of the Town) who have ever reigned ; and those of the two in office (it being a place for life) are always placed on each side of the door of entry. The other room contains the principal number of books and is also ornamented with portraits of distinguished characters: Our William 3, George 1st, Louis 14, King of Prussia, Euler, Haller, &c. The lbrarian,® a very intelligent polite man, answered our several questions with the greatest good humour. Mr. B. invited him to sup with us, and I’m sure we cannot sufficiently praise the attention he had, to explain to us those steps to be persued to make our intended Journey to the Glaciers as agreeable and comfortable as possible. The Town of Berne is supposed to contain 14,000 inhabitants, 4 A space is left in the manuscript. § Dr. H. Diibi writes to me that the librarian of the public library in Berne who received Beaufoy and his wife so courteously was Frederick Tscharner, a very learned scholar who held that post from 1786 until his death in 1827. [H. F. M.]

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The Valley of LAUTERBRUNNEN. (From an old lithograph.) GRINDELWALD. (Drawn by F. MEYER for GRUNER’S book, 1760.)

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. 269 a considerable number for a town neither rich (as to the generallity) nor commercial. It is built entirely of a greyish white stone. The great street is certainly a most noble one. A small stream of water runs entirely thro it, which does not a little to contribute to the cleanliness which distinguishes it. The houses are nearly the same, and from the alcades which run on each side of the street a stranger has some difficulty in recollecting the houses; at regular distances in the middle of the street are fountains, which from thier being adorned with figures in white and gold, are not barely useful but highly ornamental. In short Berne from its constitution, order, cleanliness (for in the most rainy weather you may walk from one end of it to the other without even dirtying your shoes) cannot fail of interesting every stranger. As for the Public Buildings and Charities, they reminded me of the so many noble and well conducted ones, my own country produces, and in so saying, I assure you I mean to pay a compliment to both. As for any information on the State &c. I refer you to Cox: who has given a general outline of that Republic in fewer words than I possibly can. But I must at the time remark that I cannot help having the heighest idea of thier order and regularity, from remarking that even the most minute things are attended to —for examble—thier roads in general are superbe, and at every entry into the Town it is thro a Beautiful avenu of Lime trees. And from the declivity, as the Town as I before said is surrounded on every side by hills, a railing for General safty is put. Not a post or rail is wanting in the whole extent. This you may observe in every thing, and what not a little contributes to the perfection of each department is the choice of an inspector, whose only necessary recommendation is a turn for the employ he solicits. What more can I possibly say of Berne, except that in my life I never saw a place the tout ensemble of which so highly delighted me. I forgot to mention a noble Charity lately established for orphans. I believe it is 25 Boys & as many Girls who are received, educated, settled in life, &. The boys are already received, but the House designed for habitation of the Girls is not yet entirely finished. The rest of the day we have employed in walking about the Town, and I only wait to bid you good night in order to prepare myself by a refreshing sleep for the Journey we propose making tomorrow. We left Berne about 6 o’Clock on Friday morning and after a ride of 12 miles arrived at Thun, the seat of a Balliage in the Canton of Berne. I cannot possibly discribe to you the constant succession of beautiful scenes which presented themselves to our view during our route from Berne. Everywhere we saw the most abondant nature, and the richness of the prospect was considerably augmented by the quantity of good houses scattered on the sides of the hills. The Swiss peasant (of the Berne Canton) may compare with the English Farmer. The State sees with pleasure thier agrandisement VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. T

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270 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamonia in 1787. and opulence and really supports them at the expence of the Bourgois, who in fact are the people oppressed under this government. Thun, where we left our carriage and horses, is rather a large town situated on the Aar: which runs out of the lake of Thun about - + mile above the Town. We saw nothing remarkable in it, and having dined whilst the boat was preparing, at 2 o’Clock we embarked, in order to pass the lake in all its length, about 16 miles. The first half is a continuance of the gay and animated scenes before mentioned, but afterwards the Rocks coming almost perpendicular down to the lake render landing impossible. Luckily tempests are very rare here, the hights of the surrounding Mountains serving as a shelter. We had made nearly half way when a heavy rain, which we hoped would past over the mountains, surprised us. It was attended with but little wind, however our boatmen wished to be ashore as they feard thier boat was too small to resist a more violent one. Accordingly in a } of an hour we landed safely at a cavern hollow’d out in the Rocks (by the order of thier Excellences of Berne) for the purpose of serving as an assistance those unfor- tunate people whom a storm might here surprise, another instance of thier universal attention, because without this cave a landing would be impossible, as the Rocks as I before observed are perpen- dicular from the waters edge. The rain abating after about } of an hour we again trusted ourselves in our little boat, which brought us very safely, tho with a considerable wind, to the place from whence I now address you. It is at the extremity of the lake, a lone House called Maison- neuve.* You may judge with what joy we found ourselves in a really good room, with a good fire, and having passed all our dangers, with the addition of having heard the thunder re-echoed from all the surrounding Alps, without having risked our lives for the pleasure. The weather prevented our visiting the Grot of St. Beat by the side of the lake, but we shall see it, probably in returning, when I will mention it to you. Mr. B. sounded the lake, and found 1816 feet; the rain &c. prevented a repetition of the experiment. Therefore it is improbable that at the first cast he found the most * The Pastor Wyttenbach mentions this in his Instruction pour les Voyageurs qu vont voir les Glaciers et les Alpes du Canton de Berne, Berne 1787, p. 13: “Ce trajet étant fait, [Thun to the end of the lake] on arrive au haut du lac, & l’on met pied & terre prés du Neuhaus, mot qui signifie Maison neuve, ou il y a un dépot pour les marchandises. Un chemin, quitraverse des plaines agréables & et la plipart fertiles, long de trois quart-d’heures, conduit dela & Ountersée ot |’on fait porter ordinairement le bagage par les bateliers.’ Oddly enough Coolidge does not mention this inn in his Swiss Travel and Guide Books, see p. 150. [H.F. M.]

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamonix in 1787. 271 profound place. We slept at Maison-neuve last night and we are still detained here by a violent and incessant rain ; for our carriage which we have sent for from the next town, being a cart, we are exposed a little to the seasons you'll allow. However, we hope to reach Lutterburn tonight as it appears clearing a little. We are here surrounded by high Mountains whos summits are unattainable and down the sides of which the unmelted snow yet remains. But I must bid you adieu—the steam from the soup now on the table reminds me of the appetite which I had entirely forgot in the pleasing reflection that I was writing to you, my dearest father and mother. Farewell, then, to Lutterburn. Appearances for once were not deceitful, therefore after dinner we set out in our elegant equipage for Lauterbrounnen. Our road for some little time was tolerably good; we past several small Villages not worthy of note and after crossing the Aar 3 times, we began to be pritty sensible of our carriage not being hung upon springs. We at length enterd the Valley of Lauterbrounnen, or Claire fountain, our road lying by the side of the united rivers of the Black and White Lutchine, who rush with a dreadful roaring down the Vale. I cannot discribe to you the beauty and horror of the scene. Huge rocks here and there stopt the rivers impeteous course—then with a noise like thunder, scorning all bounds, it burst over them. In short, stuned by the roaring of its fall, and knowing that one false step of the horses might expose me to all the fury of its waves, I beheld these savage beauties in trembling. On each side we were surrounded by stupendous Mountains down the which pourd innumerable cascades, but untill our coming within sight of the Staubbakh we had observed none render’d remarkable by fame. We were near 5 hours before we arrived at Lauterbrounnen, situated in the narrow Valley of that name and enclosed on every side by Rocky Mountains. We went to the Curates, who in general lodges strangers.’ Thier, in the midst of an almost desart we found a most excellent House, good chear, &c. besides the advantage of the 3 most celebrated Cascades of this Valley before our Windows. The Staubbakh or river of dust takes its rise from the fountains of the pasturage of Muren, desends that mountain across a wood of pines untill the rock of Pletsch. There it devides itself into two streams, but falling again, peirces across the Rock, comes out as from a Pipe, and spreads itself in the air like a fine small rain. The quantity of water being considerable it has a most beautiful appearance, falling from a highth of 1000 feet. We went to take 7 See Sketch of a Tour through Swisserland, by T[homas] M[artyn] London, 1787, p. 67: ‘There being no inn at Lauterbrunn, the Minister receives strangers, lodges and entertains them well, and accepts a gratuity.’ [H. F. M.}

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272 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. @ nearer view this morning, and from the reflection of the beams of the Sun on this mist, one of the most beautiful rainbows was formed at the bottom of the fall, immaginable. We went near enough to be entirely encircled by it, tho at the expence of a compleat wetting. The second is the Pisbakh, which falls in an undevided stream from a rock still higher than that just mentioned. And the 3d the Buckenboekli, which is a considerable body of water falling 1200. feet from a perpendicular Rock. The number of houses built on the lower declivities of these Mountains render them really extremely interesting, and the lively green and oderifferous herbs which serve as pasturage for thier Cattle, is a stricking contrast with the snowy Alps and inaccessable Glaciers which top them. Mr. B. went this morning to measure with his Barometer the height of the Staubakh.® Judge of my agitation in seeing him perched, in appearance, on the very brink of the declivity, and in hearing the good lady minester declare she never yet saw any body in the same place. However, he has assured me that his situation was far from a dangerous one, and seeing him now safe before me I readily give him credit for having been the first Englishman in the same situation. After dinner we separated, Mr. Beaufoy going to Climb the Wagnor alp,® which is an assent of 8 hours and very difficult, whilst I attended the Curate and his Wife, set out to see the lead & silver mines which lie at the Southern Extremity of this Valley.1° We proceeded about 6 miles in our Cart when we were obliged to quit it, the road growing so exceedingly narrow and steep it was impos- sible to goon. I perceived the waggoner saddle his horse and began to immagine that myself was designed to figure on one of them. My maid mounted first, and from the highth of her horse, the breadth of his Back &c. together with her dress, I thought she never would have accomplished it. However, after about 5 minutes in the most risible postures immaginable, I saw her safely seated close to his tail. It required another 5 to lug her on the saddle, and to be sure a curious figure she cut. I had lost my strength in laughing at her. However the fear of becoming likewise an object of ridicule to a number of women who surrounded us, made me doubly exert myself, and I assure you at the first essay I was fairly seated. Lead by the waggoner I abandoned myself almost without fear in roads made certainly to inspire it. The path which was merely § The measurements are summarised at the end of the manuscript. ® According to Coolidge (Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide Books, p. 27) the pass over the Wengern Alp was first crossed in 1771, by Wyttenbach and Von Bonstetten. 10 These mines were exploited, according to Ebel, III, p. 331, in the seventeenth century and abandoned early in the eighteenth century. In 1782 a company was formed in Berne with the object of re-, opening them, In 1805 they were definitely abandoned. [H. F. M.]

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. 273 a foot one lay chiefly along the edge of a precipice on the one side, whilst the impending Rocks on the other hung in many places over our heads. The River of the White Lutchine roars along the. Bottom; it takes its source from the... not far from this. spot, and from the violence of its fall, and the amazing declivity of its Bed, it is really one continued Cascade. I beleive we went nearly 3 miles and I am sure we mounted by steps (a kind of Staircase) the heighth of St. Pauls—tho I cannot praise the easy jog of my poor Beast, yet I can render with truth justice to his surefootedness, for not once did he give me an alarm either by a false step or trip. The Director of the Mines received us with the greatest civility and lead us thro the various Buildings. It being Sunday, the works stood still, but he ordered each in his department to give us a speciment of thier employ. They show’d us pieces taken from two different veins, one much richer than the other, and inform’d me that from the finer sort they in general got 70 ounces of Silver to 100 of lead. The works are emense. As for the method of seperating the Metal from the Stone, I presume you are perfectly well acquainted with it, and indeed it is as simple as one can well conceive. The Stone is broke even to dust by a Mechine consisting of several large Stampers, and being so reduced passes by a current of water into a trough where the water passing off leaves the pounded mixture of Silver, lead and Stone: the next process is to seperate the Stone from the other two, for which purpose the whole is put into a trough which declines gently, the Stone being the lighter remains whilst the weight of the other two forces them off. They remain untill quite dry and are afterwards smelted both together, and by a second operation seperated. Being as I before said accompanied by the worthy Curate and his Wife, who appeared to be intimate in this family—there was no honor they did not show us, and to finish with they gave us the Mineurs Dance. To tell you it amused me would be ridiculous, but I was content with thier efforts to please and did not fail, you may be sure, to show the highest satisfaction. As for our Hosts of Lauterbrunnen, I believe they thought it a spectacle worthy, and were very much surprised at my impatience to set out on my return, as they assured me over and over gain that I might stay a whole hour longer and still be at home by day light. I very much regretted my ignorance of the language of this country (a very bad. German) throughout our tour. It has deprived me of a great deal of information and pleasure. _ I did not venture to mount again my Rosinante for the desent, which is nearly perpendicular the whole way, but trudged with great credit to myself along the brinks of precipices, down the sides of rocks &c., untill we came to that spot where we had left our Cart, in which being again seated we troted merrily home. And in speight of the great haste I had made I assure you we found it extremely cold the greatest part of the time. Nor is it astonishing ; from the heighth of the Rocks which surround this Valley the sun

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274 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamonia in 1787. is very soon hid behind thier summits, and the air which passes on either side over a frozen reigon comes impregnated with cold. The literal translation of the word Lauterbrunnen is ‘ abounding with Fountains,’ and surely never was a place more aptly named. During our course along the Valley to these Mines, we counted no less than 33 Cascades, and the greater part considerable ones. The absence of Mr. B. ennuiz me; therefore to amuse every unpleasant sensation I have employed the interval of our arrival and retirement in recounting to you the history of the day. I must however by sleep prepare myself for the fatigues of tomorrow. So good night. Sunday. Scarcely had we left our Beds, before we were agreeably surprised by the arrival of Mr. Beaufoy. After taking the necessary precaution of a good Breakfast, we took leave of our Complasant Hosts, in making them a handsome present, which is the custom as they make nocharge. We continued on the road by which we came, untill the bridge of the two Lutchines (being the place where the black & white rivers of that name join). Then turning to the right we soon entered the Valley of Grindenwalt, taking its name from the two Glaciers so called, situated at the upper end of the Valley. We beheld with astonishment the amazing fertility and populous- ness of this place. The length of it appeard nearly 12 miles and it really is one continued Villiage. Stupendous rocks whos impending summets threaten each moment to overwhelm the passenger necessarily strick one with horror; nor is that dread entirely to be overcome whilst one sees the whole plain strewd with large peices of Rock thus detached. The road is remarkably good, borderd on each side by Orchards and the honest civility of its inhabitants fills one with the most favorable opinion of them. This Valley produces Barley, rye, hay & hemp. Above 5,000 head of Cattle are here fed. After a ride of about 4 miles we desended from our carriage in order to take on foot the road of the lower Glaciers, at which we arrived after a most troublesome walk, partly over the bed of the river and sometimes in it. Even at a distance of about 5 minutes walk from them, I found the Glaciers did not at all fulfill the idea I had formed of them. They appeard like a parcel of dirty Snow heaped together, but on a nearer view I must own there was nothing wanting to complete the horrid beauty of the Scene. A Glacier is always situated betwixt two mountains and is formed of the unmelted snow of Ages, for from the heighth of the Rocks on each side the Sun rests too short a time upon them to make any considerable thaw. These rise to a considerable height most rapidly, the surface of the ice forming pyrimaids of different heights; on the lower part of the Glacier the dirt is so mixt into the ice as to give it a most dis- agreeable appearance, but the superior parts are free from this inconvenience, and give a dark sky blue shade. In the center of the Glacier is a large arch, apparently first worn by the rapid Torrent of melted Snow water which escapes from

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamonia in 1787. 275 underneath it, forming a most picturesque scene. Mr. Beaufoy would not suffer me to mount upon them, as large peices of ice frequently detach themselves, and it would be impossible to shelter ones self from the impeteosity of thier fall. During the time he was examining them more closely I was occupied in gathering strawberries of which there was plenty, even within 5 yards of the foot of the Glacier. After about an hour we left these wonderous works of nature and time, and directed our steps towards the House at which we were to dine. The road appear’d to me very, very long. Besides the fatigue, natural attendant on a walk perhaps of 6 miles, in the very heat of the day, and in a road almost inaccessable, I had the misfortune to step on a loose stone, which not only threw me at my whole length on the ground, but also strained my ancle. However, at length we arrived at 5 o’Clock, and sat down in less than 5 minutes to a most excellent dinner which our guide whom we had sent on before had order’d to be prepared for us. Elated by the Majestic Views which surrounded us, and considerably refresh'd by good chear &c., I was soon ready to accompany Mr. B. in a walk which show’d the whole and various beauties of the Valley to the greatest advantage. On our right arrose the inaccessible mountain of the Jungfrauen- horn, whose lofty top was then coverd by the clouds, but soon chased by the wind, we held its steep and snowy sides reflecting by the beames of the setting sun, a thousand different coulours. On our left we saw the Wetterhorn, whilst the Schrekhorn Grosshorn and Eiger formed a demi circle," at the bottom of which, we saw the cattle grazing besides the peaceful habitations of thier owners, whos huts were shelterd from the distrustive Avelenches by forrests of Pines & Beach trees, which occupying the middle region of these Alps show to greater advantage the dazling whiteness of thier Summets. We were surprised by the sound of thunder, but our guide derecting our Eyes towards the lower Glacier, we saw a large peice of Ice which being detached by the heat of the Sun, came rolling down with a horrid noise. Our landlord of Grindelwald is now nearly recoverd from an accident occasioned by one of these peices of falling Ice, called Avelenches.4* He was on the Upper Glacier, 11 Before 1850 there was considerable uncertainty regarding the nomenclature of the Oberland peaks. Consult Coolidge (Swiss Travel and Swiss Guide Books), p. 183 ff. 18 The Inn at Grindelwald, in 1790, was kept by Christian Bohren, the hero of this much-quoted adventure. This passage fixes the date of Bohren’s adventure. Ebel says it occurred in 1790, but as Bohren was recovering when the Beaufoys arrived, it must have taken place in 1787. See Manuel du Voyageur en Suisse, by J. G. Ebel, Ziirich 1811, HI, p. 181: * L’an 1790 le nommé Christian Boren, propriétaire de l’auberge du

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276 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamomiz in 1787. and as I understood, conducting his cattle to an abundant pasturage which lies on the other side of them, when he was knocked down by the impeteous shower (as it is almost immediately reduced in to a dust of frozen Snow), and from the hard and slipping surface of the Ice he could not recover himself, but slid into an emense hole about the middle of the Glacier, at the bottom of which flowd the river of melted snow water which escapes by an arch its Torrent has worn. On his hands and knees he followed the course of this water. As you may conceive in some degree his sensations whilst thus buried alive under a depth of Ice and snow impossible to penetrate, you may also form some idea of his joy on again beholding the face of day by an overture he was so near attaining. In short the poor fellow escaped the treble danger of being crushed by the Avelanche, of dashing his brains out in a fall of 60 feet, and 3d of being drowned, with the trifling remembrance (in comparison) of a broken arm. Mr. B. got up at 4 in the morning in order to visit the upper Glaciers, which are much superior to the lower ones in every respect. In the first place they are free from that incrustation of dirt, and the pyrimades which rise from the bed of Ice are from 40 to 60 feet high. They shorten as you assend untill they terminate in a broad surface, broken into deep and large Clefts. It is said that this Glacier joins to a very extensive Valley of Ice 36 miles long, which is situated betwixt two elevated chains of Alps. But as neither I, nor any of our party penetrated so far, I cannot attest it. At 11 o’Clock we left Grindelwald and returned by the road we came, to the head of the Lac de Thun, where having dined we embarked a second time on its waves. The weather being fine we determined on visiting the Cave of St. Beat, of which I before spoke, for which purpose we landed at about a mile up the lac. We assended by a most difficult and fatiguing path scoped in the side of the rock and in } of a hour arrived at the summet of the path, where a large Body of water which passes thro this cave, deviding itself into seven different branches, formes as very pritty Cascade. The Caverne is situated at the top of this Cascade and the access extreamly difficult, as one is obliged to scramble up the Rocks rugged side, with no other assistance than the brush-wood which covers it, which certainly prevents one falling down a 100 or two of feet into the lake. Grindelwald, eut le malheur de se jeter dans une fente du glacier, en le traversant avec un troupeau de moutons qu’il ramenait des paturages de Baniseck. Heureusement qu’il tomba dans le voisinage du grand torrent qui coule dans ]’intérieur, il en suivit le lit par- dessous les voutes de glace, et arriva au pied du glacier avec un bras cassé. Cet homme est actuellement encore en vie.’ For ‘ Baniseck’ read ‘ Banisegg,’ on the N.W. side of the Schreck- horn, so the accident occurred on the Unter-Grindelwald Glacier. (H. F. M.]

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. 277 As for the Caverne, it perhaps once more particularly merited the pains it costs to arrive at it. Now it has no singular beauty to recommend it, the entrance even being over the mid-leg in water. This last circumstance prevented (with not having candles) Mr. B’s advancing far into it, therefore I cannot boast of having seen those crystilizations &c. for which I beleive it is famed. Neither is it improbable that they are effaced and destroy’d as most visitors would naturally provide themselves with a sample of these curiosities. This walk hinder’d us 1} [hours] without recompensing us by its beauty for the violent Rain, hail, thunder and lightening we were caught in. Never in my life did I see anything which made a more awful impression on my mind than the force of the hail. We luckily landed before the greatest violence of the Storm, and our Servant brought us several hail stones of very great size, one of which I measured the circumference of and found it the length of my middle finger. Not anything can be more terrible than these hail storms, as where ever the stone touches all is lost. After some time we continued our voyage, and with very in- different weather arrived at 11 o’Clock at Thun. We enjoyed our elegant Apartment (for the Beds were white striped muslin drawn Back and edged with pale blue nbbons, with white calico window Curtains, and the room was ornamented with several good Engravings & prints) and having done justice to an indifferent supper I, with real satisfaction at being once more on my return towards my poor little Children, composed myself to sleep. It was nearly 10 before we were off in the morning. At this place we left our Guide, quite an original character, who had been servant to some English Gentleman, and it was his knowledge of the German and English tongues which made Mr. B. prefer him. Peter Cocher }* is near 64, a stout hale looking man who drinks his bottle and half at each meal, and perhaps for these last 40 years has never gone sober to bed. However he is I beleive a very honest fellow, and we had every reason to be contented with him as he served us faithfully and was a never failing source of entertainment from his oddities &c. It was too late to think of persueing our journey towards Neu- chatel, therefore we remained at Berne untill Thursday morning, when we set out for Neuchatel, at which place we arrived without any accident at 7 o’Clock, without any alloy to my pleasure as I found my dear Children in perfect health. Here we mean to stay a week, and then begin a 2d course, an account of which I shall not fail to transmit to you—till then Adieu. 13 Kutscher (7), +.e. Coachman (!). I think that for lack of the correct one she speaks of the guide by this name, her German being very uncertain. Mr. Montagnier, however, thinks that the name of this guide was probably Peter Cocher.

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278 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. (Mrs. Beaufoy’s Expense Account.] July 11-1787 Wednesday. We set out from Neuchatel. Paid Emden Board 84 Dinner & waiter at Anet 47 A Hat at Berne 52.2 Hospital and Arsenal 42 Church 15.3 Foundry 5.1 21 Bill at Berne 340.2 Waiter 42 On the road to Thun. Wine &c. 10.2 Gave Peter & Boatmen 31.2 Bill at Thun 101.2 Boat to Newhouse 84 Bill at Newhouse 105.0 Give Mineurs 42 Guide for going to Stau- bach &c. 68.1 at the Curates 336 Shoes to climb in 21 Gave for various things 42 Bill at Grinderwalt 136 Waggon and horses 294 Hire of Parasoliels 10.2 Guide of Lauterbrunnen to G. 63 Dinner at Newhouse 42 Gave the Gide 5.1 Boat expences 92.2 Paid Peter 220.2 Bill at Thun 102.0 a Milk pail 21 2d Bill at Berne with waiter 199.2 oranges 12 dinner at Alberg 47 59.0 Gave [?] 52.2 2765.1 Gave Girl 5.1 2770.2 Brought over 2770.2 Paid Francis Board 189 Emden do 21 2980 . 2 11. .20..Expences without Coach hire July 28th set out for Geneva &c. —Aug. 16 Paid for 4 views of Chamouni 336 A Hat for Mr. B. 84 Crockery 100 520 living - board - Mont Blanc &c. from July 30 to August 16 7998 8518 Expences without the Horses £50.14s. [The following paragraph is written on a page by itself, on the reverse of the sheet bearing the Account of Expenses. JM. TJ

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a View of MONT BLANC and its glaciers from the COL de BALME. (From a print by LAMY.) 7 TY os Aen So we ip? - 2m ef~ of rf : - ' ‘ ? ee f e Facsimile of a paragraph in Mrs. Beaufoy’s Journal, mentioning the ascent of Mont Blane by her husband.

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A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamoniz in 1787. 279 Mr. Beaufoy arrived at Chamouni on the 6th August and on the 8th set out with his servant & 10 Guides to attain the summet of Mount Blanc—he quitted Chamouni at 7H? and on the 9th reached the summet at 10 o’Clock less 3 or 4 minutes—at 12H10 we saw them again recommence thier march." 14 Dr. Paccard, in his journal, relates: ‘II est arrivé & 10 heures du matin au sommet. I] est resté 2 heures et }.’ (Diibi: Paccard wieder Balmat, p. 269.) Beaufoy, before the Royal . Society, stated that he arrived on the summit half an hour after ten, and left a half an hour after twelve. Bourrit (Lettre & Miss Craven, p. 5), on August 13, 1787, wrote: *. . . il [Beaufoy] partit le mercredi 8 du courant avec dix guides & son domestique: je le vis atteindre le sommet le jeudi, & vendredi il fut de retour le matin. . . . Son épouse, qui n’a que 19 ans, & joui du succés de son époux. Sensible, trés-instruite, c’est elle qut a tiré les résultats des opérations [the italics are mine—J. M. T.] faites au sommet [Beaufoy calculated the Latitude of the mountain], avec une facilité dont j’ai été surpris, & qui prouve avec quel soin l’éducation des Anglaises est soignée.’ Bourrit gives further details in his Itsnératre de Genéve, de Chamount, du Valais et du Canton de Vaud (Genéve, 1808 ; p. 190): “Une course si prompte me donnoit des craintes sur sa santé; son épouse avoit les plus grandes inqui¢tudes, et elles n’étoient que trops fondées, car nous le vimes revenir dans |’état le plus déplorable, son visage entiérement pelé et ses yeux comme fondus. Nous le crimes aveuglé; cependant il fut pansé avec de la graisse de marmotte, et nous eimes |’inexprimable plaisir de le voir guéri dans peu de jours. Ce fut pendant sa maladie que son épouse, qui n’avoit que 19 ans, tira les résultats des opérations faites au sommet, avec une facilité qui me donna une haute idée de l’éducation Angloise.’ [J.M.T.] Letter from Pierre Balmat to H. B. de Saussure. Ce 10 aout 1787. MonsiEuR,—Le Jour que vous partites de Sallanche pour Genéve le 8 aot l’anglois [Beaufoy], qui s’étoit proposé de faire faire une tente, est parti de Chamonix 4 7 heures du matin, est allé coucher & votre seconde cabane que vous fites batir l’année derniére, et Monsieur Bourrit a dit les avoir vus & 5 heures du matin prés de l’endroit ot nous avons couché la derniére nuit, et moi je les ai vus arriver sur le Gros Rocher ot nous sommes arrétés avant prendre la derniére montée pour arriver au sommet 4 9 heures. Et 4 10 heures et quart ils sont arrivés tous en haut et & midi et demi ils ont com- mencé & redescendre. A 2 heures et demi ils sont arrivés ot nous avons couché en descendant et 4 3 heures et 3 quarts ils sont arrivés & votre cabane ot il avoit couché la nuit précédente. Le lendemain

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280 A Journey through the Oberland and to Chamonz in 1787. [Mrs. Beaufoy’s Pharmacopeia. ] About five o’Clock in the Afternoon give the Child a Clyster made of new Milk blood warm and made very sweet with treacle. Put nothing else in to bring it away as the longer it remains in the body the more effecatious it will prove. When the Child goes to bed give him four grains of Calomel worked up in a peice of sweet meat & in the morning 15 Grains of Tollop to purge it off & take great care the child drinks nothing cold, nor takes cold. A great many children have been cured of these Worm fevers when life has been dispaired of by taking this medicine. It is most effecatious when taken at the full of the moon and may safely be repeated once a month till the Child be well. To prevent the Gout. Take of the Inner bark of Elm & Juniper Berrys 3} lb of each, boil them in 5 pints of water till it is reduced to half that quantity. Strain it off and boil the liquor with 1 oz of nitre. Drink about a 3d of a pint every night for a month, spring & fall, which will keep off the attack. If at any time you feel flying pains about you, one preparation will in general remove them. [Table of Distances.] Post Miles H. Paris to Calais by Amiens 334 oF 176} 31.32 Lyons to Paris 614 297 48 .05 Lyons to Paris by Burgundy 60} 984 21.35 113 595 103.43 [Summary of Colonel Beaufoy’s Measurements. ] 15 Height of Lac of Thun above the Chamber we slept in at Berne 97.731 Curates at Lauterbrounen above Thun 799 .982 Lower Stabbach 1138 .375 ils sont arrivés & Chamonix 4 11 heures du matin et il a eu les yeux beaucoup brulés par le soleil dont il est moitié aveugleé. Je suis de tout mon coeur avec tout le respect possible, Monsieur, Votre trés humble et trés obéissant serviteur, Pierre Balmat Guide & Chamonix. From the papers of H. B. de Saussure in the possession of his descendants in Geneva. [H. F. M.] 15 There is no indication of the unit of measurement employed although it must have been the English foot. These figures, representing the final results of computations, have been carefully transcribed.

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Photo. T. G. Longstaff. TRISUL above the head of the gorge of the NANDAKGINI.

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Twenty Years After. 281 Upper Stabbach 1499 .010 Difference of two falls of Staubbach 360 .5928 Heighth of the Gate 2075 .639 Heighth of the Trough 630.760 The house above the trough 394.377 The Wagner Alp 3107 .776 The height of the house I slept in 3068 . 226 Wagner Alps Steiner’s house 39. The height of the Cavern 984.448 Height of the Caverne 4000 . 804 Wagnor house by 2d Cal 3023.131 Height of gate by 2d Cal 2008 .877 Height of lower glacier above Curates House 572.512 Height of the Cabaret at Grindenwald above lower Glacier 199.897 Upper Glacier above Cabaret 662.699 Height of the Cabaret above Lac de Thun 824.909 Grindenwald 1645.47 Hill at Zainesbourgh higher than Berne 384.432 Inn at Alberg 336 .007 Twenty Years AFTER. By T. G. LONGSTAFF. (Read before the Alpine Club, March 6, 1928.) ANDA DEVI (25,660 ft.) in the Garhwal Himalaya is the highest mountain situated entirely within British territory. There are no ‘political’ difficulties to prevent anybody going there at any time. Its neighbourhood can be reached very quickly, easily, and cheaply from railhead at Kathgodam. In spite of this no one has yet succeeded in reaching the actual base of this grand mountain, much less in setting foot on it. The topography must therefore be peculiar : that is why I chose this district when I paid my first visit to the Himalaya in 1905 (‘ A.J.’ 28, 202-228). I chose it again in 1907, our Jubilee Year, when with General Bruce and a lamented friend, Arnold Mumm, we were prevented from going to Mt. Everest by the unexpected veto of the India Office (‘ A.J.’ 24. 107-183). Undoubtedly one reason of the neglect of this group is because, in this particular climatic zone, the winter snow does not disappear until June, while during the Rains travel in the southern valleys is so unbearably unpleasant. But quite apart from this, the topography of Nanda Devi presents difficul-

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282 Twenty Years After. ties of access which I[ believe are unique. The mountain rises from the middle of an almost complete crater-like amphitheatre of mountains whose walls are 20,000 ft. high, which has neither been crossed nor entered by any human foot. On the E., the highest peak rises abruptly from the end of a huge buttress, two miles long and about 28,000 ft. in height, which connects it with a separate mountain, Nanda Devi East, 24,400 ft. On all other sides it rises a sheer 10,000 or 12,000 ft. from the glaciers which encircle its base. But this central ‘ crater ’ is only part stags] gr... Baguu Pass. ” 23184 1 »/ — —— ola, — ha ese Tm as Miee Ks Ss 4 1!7°, 56 f : *Dibru ta ky, Rit ghe ¢, 170168 » LS eae t ——— io A— Rinri é— Sad ite ‘ sr sue 14 13400F Ke | a -— = 4 ale 500 000 — of another almost complete ring of mountains measuring full 70 miles in circumference, from the crest of which spring a dozen measured peaks of over 20,000 ft., including Dunagin on the N., Nanda Devi East, and, on the S. Trisul and Nanda’ Ghungti. For 60 miles of this distance there is no known depression below 17,000 ft., and in this distance it has only once been crossed by the Bagini pass, 20,100 ft. (vide * A.J.’ 24, 111). This defensive crest-line has also been reached, but not crossed, in three other places: at 19,000 ft. 2 miles S. of Nanda Devi Kast (‘ A.J.’ 28, 209), on the summit of Trisul, and last summer at 17,000 ft. on the Rinti Saddle. Down the centre of these two concentric horseshoes flows the Rishiganga, which joins the Dhaoli river at Rini at an altitude

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Twenty Years After. 288 of only 6000 ft. The distance between Rini and Nanda Devi is only 20 miles, so that both the actual drop and the angle of steepness are considerably more than on the northern slopes of Mt. Everest. The drainage of some 250 square miles of glaciated mountain country would be expected to make something remarkable in the way of a trench, when limited to one outlet ; but however great the difficulties anticipated it would be expected that the Rishi valley would provide easier access to the inner sanctuary than climbing over a 20,000 ft. wall. Yet the Garhwalis, good rock climbers and fine soldiers as they are, affirm that the lower half of the Rishi gorge is quite im- practicable. In 1888 that redoubtable mountaineer, W. W. Graham, with Emil Boss and Ulrich Kaufmann, tried to force the passage from Rini, but were stopped after going a very short distance by the sheer difficulties of the ground (‘ A.J.’ 12, 40). Another trouble is that this mysterious valley is ‘a savage place . . . holy and enchanted,’ into which the local people have a superstitious dread of entering, and local coolies are therefore apt to bolt at any moment from mere unreasoning fear. It is the traditional home of the Sat Rishi, the Seven Wise Men, who are now translated to the constellation of the Great Bear. The valley has never been inhabited, but every summer the Tolma shepherds bring a few sheep and goats across the cliffs, at 14,700 ft., just W. of Tolma peak (see map, ‘ A.J.’ 24, 182), to pasture for two months in the little side-glen of Dibrugheta, which hangs high above the northern bank of the Rishiganga. Using this route, both Graham’s party in 1883 and our party in 1907 reached the banks of the Rishiganga about the middle point of its course: both parties were, however, defeated by the difficulties of the upper end of the gorge, where the two arms of the inner crater-like amphitheatre almost close upon one another, so that the glaciers at the foot of Nanda Devi remain untrodden to this day ; and when the foot is reached you find an Ushba with 10,000 ft. added to her stature. In 1905 and in 1907 I had explored practically all the approaches to this inviolate sanctuary. But a combination of leech-bites, bad weather, and passive resistance had prevented me, in August 1907, from pushing home an attempt to penetrate to the glacier sources of the Nandakgini river. Rising from the western foot of Trisul and from the southern slopes of the next peak on the N.W., which is definitely known to the natives as Nanda Ghungti (1.e. ‘ Nanda in her bridal veil’), the Nandak- gini river flows in a westerly direction to join the Alaknanda at

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284 Twenty Years After. holy Nandprayag. It was obvious that there ought to be a pass between Trisul and Nanda Ghungti, and that if this was an easy one it might give quicker access to the Rishi valley than the northern route used for the successful attack on Trisul in 1907. But nothing whatever was known of the topo- graphy, and diligent inquiry has now convinced me that no Kuropean had ever reached the glaciers in this neighbourhood. In May 1927 Mr. Hugh Ruttledge, 1.C.S., Deputy Commis- sioner of the Almora District, obtained a month’s leave and invited me to accompany him and his wife on a further explora- tion of this valley. He is greatly esteemed by the various peoples of his huge district for visiting even the remotest corners of it and for his devotion to their sacred Himachal: with his wife he made the only pan karma, or ceremonial circuit of Kailas, which has ever been performed by Europeans. In company with Brigadier R. C. Wilson, D.S.0., they made the first modern passage of Traill’s pass in 1926.1 Such activities, even if unblessed by his official superiors, greatly add to his prestige as a District Officer with his people. He made all arrangements for our trip, including the enlistment in Darjiling and fitting out of six Sherpas, of whom Chettan served with the second Mt. Everest Expedition and Lewa with all three : Lewa was one of the two saved alive from the avalanche by Mallory, Somervell, and Crawford in 1922. Colonel A. H. R. Dodd, commanding 1/8 Q.A.O. Gurkha Rifles, most kindly lent us two picked riflemen, Khare and Budha Singh, who were of great service to us. All our men worked splendidly. Leaving Gwaldam on May 15 we made three long marches by the Wan pass (about 10,350 ft.) to Satol, which was reached on May 17. Satol (about 7500 ft.) is the highest village on the Nandakgini and became our base, where all servants and all but the lightest equipment were left behind. We were told at Satol that about every twelve years a regular pilgrimage was made to Silla Samudr (or Samudar), the ice-cave at the snout of the glacier from which the Nadakgini river appears to rise. The name was said to mean ‘ Source of the Ocean,’ We were told that on these occasions 2000 goats were sacrificed there; but we were also told that exceedingly few of the pilgrims ever arrived at their journey’s end—and we never found even a bone of one goat! The performance of the pilgrimage appears to be a ‘ perquisite ’ of the villagers of Satol, for the which they are paid a regular fee. I think it must be to 1 AJ, W, 23-37,

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Twenty Years After. 285 this pilgrimage that Atkinson refers (‘Himalayan Districts,’ vol. 11. p. 634), saying ‘The summit (of Nanda Devi) is altogether inaccessible; but over a mile below it, a mela or religious festival is held every twelfth year, though access to the spot is so difficult that it is reached by scarcely fifty of the pilgrims who make the attempt. Further progress is impractic- able, in consequence of the mural cliffs of ice which on every side encase the peak. . . .’ But Silla Samudr is 15 miles §.W. of the peak. There is a great erratic block beside the Salung glacier, 10 miles S.E. of the peak, which I was told by my coolies in 1905 was a place of pilgrimage for the worship of Nanda Devi, and in 1907 I saw a celebration in her honour at a village 80 miles W. of the mountain. In the course of three journeys in this district, on all sides of the mountain, and during which I have always been on good terms with the villagers and hillmen, I have failed to get any evidence of a near approach to the mountain from any side: all were unanimous in denying the possibility of any access up the Rishi valley. I had been told twenty years ago that the head of the Nandakgini glen was guarded by a large and malevolent serpent, which some declared was petrified and was said by others to eat all comers, and we now heard that a party of travellers, who once long ago essayed & passage across the range, were destroyed by an avalanche hurled from the top of Trisul by Shiva, who was incensed at their approach to his Veiled Bride (‘ Nanda Ghungti’). While there was no suggestion of any objection to our party proceeding, no villager was willing to accompany us; nor could any detail of the route be obtained. But an old soldier, Bhawan Singh Negi, who had greatly distinguished himself at Neuve Chapelle with the Royal Garhwal Rifles, offered to do his best for us, although he had never been that way himself. Our party was now cut down to the two Gurkhas and six Sherpas, with a few of our old coolies who would be sent back to Satol when the glaciers were reached. On May 18 we climbed the steep track, past the tiny ancient temple of Tantara (about 8700 ft.), by which sheep and goats are taken in summer up the Kharak or summer grazing alp of Dagwal. Soon after passing this small temple we turned from the track into feathery bamboo jungle under the dense shadow of great forest trees, and, keeping our height, gradually approached the gorge of the Nandakgini to the N. of us, on our left. The track was now very narrow and sometimes pre- cipitous. At 4 p.m. we camped in dense wet jungle at about 9900 ft. VOL. XL.—NO, CCXXXVII. U

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286 Twenty Years After. May 19 was a very hard day. Very soon the ‘ path’ quite disappeared. The dwarf bamboo got thinner as we left the oak and maple and entered the fir and rhododendron zone. Before noon we got down into the bed of the Nandakgini, here about 11,000 ft., but were very soon forced up again into snow- bent birch and mauve rhododendron jungle, very fatiguing to the passage of laden men. Opposite to us, extending along the sunny N. bank of the gorge, was a beautiful forest of large crimson tree-rhododendron, contrasting gorgeously with the dark foliage of great scattered firs. The last two-thirds of a mile took us 2 hours to cover; our laden men were far behind, and at 1 p.m. we stopped to camp on the only level spot we had seen all day, the top of a birch-clad spur thrust out into the valley between two great gullies filled with winter avalanche snow. We had the usual pre-monsoon rainstorm which turned to hail in the evening. Here, at about 11,000 ft., I was very interested to see that we were near the upper edge of a very fine continuous birch forest. This proved that we had reached a region never visited even by the hardy shepherds of Garhwal. In northern latitudes the silver birch is normally the last tree met with. It would be the same in the Himalaya were it not for centuries of grazing by sheep and goats. These, by destroying every seedling, inevitably cause the ultimate death of the forest, so that birch woods are now decidedly rare in this part of the Himalaya. I consider that the same conditions hold good in the Alps, where I have only seen well-grown birch trees in parts of Dauphiné which are too steep to graze. Next day we continued on our way, almost at once having to cut steps across a steep broad snow-filled gully. This was followed by steep slopes through the last of the dwarfing birch forest to another snow gully across which steps had to be cut. At last we got down to the bed of the torrent, here flowing in the narrowest throat of the gorge between the far projecting southern curtain of Nanda Ghungti and the slightly less pre- cipitous northern spur of Chandani Sankar. Ahead of us we saw a@ distinctly snake-like moraine curling round the true right bank of the Silla Samudr glacier, which apparently blocks the head of the glen directly under the western foot of Trisul. Crossing the stream by a snow bridge we reached the crest of the moraine 8 hours after leaving our previous camp, which was about one mile distant. The snout of the glacier descends to about 11,500 ft.: its face is fairly steep, and although the right lateral moraine is double, showing a former much greater

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Photo. T. G. Longstaff. NANDA GHUNGTI from DAGW: AL.

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Twenty Years After. 287 breadth and thickness of the ice, no sign of active retreat is evident at the present time. We now realised that the sources of the Nandakgini lay in a T-shaped valley; a partially glacier-filled glen flows down S. from Nanda Ghungti; the valley filled by the Silla Samudr glacier descends towards the N. between Chandani Sankar and the western face of Trisul: these unite at the western foot of Trisul, where the Nandakgini river starts on its westerly course. Our way lay up the northern glen, in the mouth of which we camped (about 12,000 ft.), sending our Almora coolies back at once and keeping only the two Gurkhas and six Sherpas. Hugh Ruttledge has taken to mountaineering because a very serious accident makes it impossible for him to continue the sport of pig-sticking. He considers that rest is very bad for his broken thigh. He therefore spent the next two days in reconnoitring, while I made photography and mapping an excuse for the repose I was now sorely in need of. From a little 8. of the summit of Trisul a great buttress juts out westward. This soon curves toward the N.W. and rapidly decreases in height. This jagged N.W. buttress supports on its northern face a vast shelf of glacier which, descending on to the Rinti glacier, ultimately discharges into the Rishi valley on the N. But in one place this great northern shelf- glacier overflows through a slight depression in this steep N.W. buttress of Trisul, and discharges south-westward to feed the Nandakgini river, which we have been following. Just N. of this western overflow glacier there is an obvious passage up a 1000 ft. gully to the top of this N.W. buttress of Trisul, and which would lead straight on to the high shelf-glacier on the N. face of Trisul. It is therefore a potential pass across the local water parting. But the lowest depression in the Nanda Ghungti-Trisul ridge lies further N., at the head of the glen we had entered. Here steep but easy snow-slopes (May 24) led up to a perfect snow-saddle, which is the obvious pass over to the Rinti glacier on the northern side of the range. For this we suggest the name RINTI SADDLE: as it has never been crossed it should not be called a pass. Its height is about 17,000 ft. On May 28 we took a still lighter outfit and ten days’ food up to a camp at about 15,200 ft. on the highest moraine outcrop of the easternmost of the two Nanda Ghungti glaciers. The site was most exposed, but conveniently close under the lowest snowy gap (our Rinti Saddle) in the ridge between Trisul and

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Twenty Years After. 289 Nanda Ghungti. The Sherpas despise tents and made a far better camp than ours under a big boulder on the moraine. We suffered daily from hail or snow storms accompanied by thunder or high winds. On May 24 we reached the Ruinti Saddle in 8 hours’ easy going up steep and rather soft snow slopes. New avalanches were lying at the foot of the still steeper slopes on both sides of us, as we approached the pass. Just 8. of the pass is a curious depressed hollow basin, giving the impression of local subsidence. From the crest of the pass we had a splendid view down on to the head of the Rinti glacier, which was very heavily snow-covered and disappeared to the N.W., flowing between Nanda Ghungti, 21,286 ft., and the long precipitous northern spur of Trisul which terminates in peak 20,842 ft. A portion of the S.W. ridge and the glorious summit of Dunagiri (23,184 ft.) were visible over the N.W. ridge of peak 20,842 ft., on the far side of the Rishi valley, giving us a very welcome check on our position. But the saddle on which we stood was heavily corniched, and at our feet snow slopes which we knew must be dangerous fell away steeply for about 2000 ft. to the head of the Rinti glacier. In my opinion it would be quite possible to make the descent on the N. in good snow conditions ; but the passage would demand much time and great care to effect safely. To reascend the pass from the N. would be easier but would take the whole of aday. Ifthe slope was ice, then neither ascent nor descent would be practicable. Since that part of the Rishi gorge into which the Rinti nala debouches has never been traversed it was probable that we should have to return by the same route. We regretfully gave it up, but we were all three set on breaking through this redoubt- able barrier. If we slept only one night on the Rinti glacier we could ‘claim’ an absolutely new pass to our credit! As we looked back up to the summit of Trisul, ascended just twenty years ago, we realised that, if the snow would hold, it would be a simple matter to traverse left-handed from our Saddle and so gain the crest of the serrated N.W. spur running down from Trisul, and look over on to the great shelf-glacier which drapes its N.W. face. An hour’s cautious traversing brought us to the crest, and to our surprise we found ourselves only a few feet above the level of the shelf-glacier, which further towards Trisul overflows through a gap in the ridge in steep icefalls over on to the 8.W. or Nandakgini side. The first part of the descent on the N. side was apparently very easy, though not without danger from séracs falling from a smaller shelf-glacier higher up on the N.W. face of Trisul. We could not see the

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290 Twenty Years After. . actual junction of our shelf-glacier with the main ice-stream of the Rinti glacier itself but decided that this alternative route was well worth trying, and that we would take over enough outfit to enable us to sleep on the Rinti glacier and then return by the same route. By now the snow was in pretty bad condi- tion and the descent of the steep slopes back to our camp was not without moments of anxiety. Our good fortune now deserted us—or the gods were angry. On May 25 we had a bad storm which continued all night and blew down the Ruttledges’ little tent. Next day, of course, climbing conditions were impossible, and in the evening the cliffs of Nanda Ghungti and Trisul stood out ominously clear. On May 27 we left camp in desperation at 6 a.m., we three lightly laden and the two splendid Sherpas, Chettan and Lewa, with heavy loads. We meant to rush the passage and go at least far enough to see the actual junction of the shelf-glacier with the Rinti glacier, returning in our old steps the same night. We dare not be caught on the far side of the pass by another of these pre-monsoon snowfalls. We had chosen the next couloir on the N. to that by which the great shelf-glacier sent down an overflow tongue above our camp. Weclimbed the first 1000 ft. quickly and found the snow in the lower part of the couloir fairly safe: the way was clear to the crest of the ridge little more than an hour above us. But for some time we had been alarmed by the look of the weather in the W. and it was now evident that we were in for a very heavy snowstorm. We turned as it commenced. We passed a bad day in camp and a worse night. There were 9 inches of fresh snow next morning, and, as it was still snowing and our gully would be impossible for several days, we struck camp and descended. Snow had fallen at our lower camp (12,000 ft.) and the Whymper tent was blown down. The hot days made the snow more dangerous, and we deemed it wise to shift our camp out of this narrow side glen and on to a safer site under cover of the ‘Snake Moraine ’ beside the snout of the Silla Samudr glacier; this was also a drier and warmer site. Our caution was justified, for as we left this camp on the morning of May 80 we were enveloped in the snow-dust and rushing wind caused by an avalanche falling from Trisul somewhere behind us, which I think must have _ landed very near our former camp. Meanwhile the Gurkhas had brought up supplies from Satol, so that instead of returning on our tracks down the gorge of the Nandakyini we were able to spend five unforgettable days traversing the Chandani Sankar-Dagwal ridge, camping first

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Twenty Years After, 291 at the upper limit of the birch forest and then at the upper limit of the fir-belt : halycon days of ravishing beauty, with the great peaks of Nanda Ghungti and Trisul floating serene above the deep forest-filled ravine of the Nandakgini. Picking up more supplies at Satol, we despatched our baggage to Gwaldam by the Wan pass and struck out ourselves across the great outlying ridges §.W. of Trisul over the Kailwa banaik (about 12,500 ft.), and Kurumtoli, to Balan, the highest village in the valley of the Kailgunga, and so along the Nauali ridge down into the valley of the Pindar. This is a grand bit of country, seldom visited because of the difficulties of supplies, but Ruttledge’s bandobast, and the endurance of our Sherpas and the two Gurkhas proved equal to every emergency. Day after day we wandered along high bare grassy ridges with beneath us incredible glens clothed in forest growing at the steepest angle and always with the snows to look up to, ever changing but ever beautiful. I have to thank my two companions for giving me a pilgrimage more care-free and more full of delight than any other I have made in Himachal. What are the chances of a further advance against Nanda Devi? I favour a further attempt by our route of 1907 to force the last two miles of the Rishi gorge, the Tolma-Durashi passage being made in June and success in the final attack depending on a fine spell during the rains, or a late monsoon. But on the eastern or Milam side the weather is far better during the monsoon than in the western or Garhwal valleys, and there are arguments in favour of my original line of approach from the Lwanl valley in 1905; with 20 good Sherpas it should be just possible to get 8 weeks’ food over my 19,000 ft. ‘ Nanda Devi Pass,’ on the southern ridge of Nanda Devi East, down on to the glaciers at the foot of the S. ridge of Nanda Devi itself. Ruttledge suggests climbing up from my 19,000 ft. camp of 1905 and traversing high under the summit of Nanda Devi East, so as to gain the top of the great ridge connecting the latter with Nanda Devi itself. I fear the length of this climb, combined with the probable slowness of progress due to its severity, would hardly leave a margin for success. Ruttledge also believes there may be an unknown passage from the S. leading down directly on to the southern glaciers of Nanda Devi from the head of the Maiktoli glen, which I tentatively reconnoitred on August 24, 1907 ; it is much to be hoped that he will be able to explore this route thoroughly, because if such & passage exists 1t would be in every way the quickest and best line of approach. For the actual ascent of the peak Graham

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992 The New Frontiers in the Alps. favoured the western ridge; while I vote for the western side of the great southern rock rib, well knowing that I can no longer be called upon to put my opinion to the proof! Somervell, Wilson, and Ruttledge have dissipated all hopes of a line of attack by the N.K. face. I would close by reiterating my belief that the snows of Garhwal and Kumaon offer greater attractions to the mountaineer than any other part of the Himalaya, and I cannot believe that more beautiful scenery is to be found anywhere in the world. [We are indebted to the Council of the R.G.S. for permission to reproduce the accompanying maps.—Editor ‘ A.J.’] Tue New FRONTIERS IN THE ALPS. By EDGAR FOA. (Read before the Alpine Club, April 8, 1928.) \HIS Club has been in existence for exactly seventy years. During that time there have been two great changes of frontiers in the Alps—one in the beginning, and one at the end of that period. The first was in the year 1860, when Savoy and Nice were ceded to France by Piedmont, with which it had been united for many years, as the agreed price for her assistance to the Italians in the so-called War of Independence of 1859. Under that bargain a considerable portion of Mont Blanc and its chain became French. The second was after the Great War sixty years later, when the whole of the Austrian province known as Sid-Tyrol was handed over to Italy at the European Congress which settled the terms of peace upon its conclusion. The main chain of the Alps, as everybody knows, runs from W. to E.; and accepting the usual division of Western (from the Mediterranean to the Simplon), Central (from the Simplon to the Reschen Scheideck pass), and Eastern (from that pass to the Adriatic), it may be said that the earlier event made a great ethnical change in the Western Alps, whilst the later made one still greater in the Kastern. As regards both territory and population, the loss sustained by Italy in the first was much more than made up by the gain which she made in the second. For us perhaps—as members of this Club—the chief interest in the matter, in regard to the later rearrangement of

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The New Frontiers wm the Alps. 293 Alpine territory, lies in relation to those beautiful mountains known as the Dolomites; and when one recalls the fact that the chief places from which they sare approached—Cortina d’Ampezzo, 8. Martino di Castrozza, Campitello—all have purely Italian names, and the inhabitants speak nothing but - 1-4 « > - r. J \ a *., *. ae oe e . ? ; ¥ 2° * ~ttee ’ ”, ns : * “ene . n , SS edhe aimee tee ee at | Italian, the alteration that has taken place will not perhaps appear 80 strange. And yet the fact remains which 7s strange, that, making a few temporary and insignificant exceptions, for a period of something like 1000 years none of the soil of the territory in question has ever been Italian. In the early days of the Roman Empire, no doubt, the whole of it formed part of its territory, having been incorporated into the great province of Rhaetia, so called from the name of the original inhabitants, who are supposed to have belonged to the Celtic race. But passing over the dark centuries during which that great and glorious

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294 The New Frontiers in the Alps. Institution began to fall into decay, and during which this tract of country, in common with so many others, was overrun by successive invasions of barbarous hordes from the N., the earliest historical glimpse of it that we get dates from the first half of the eleventh century. By a decree of Conrad II, one of the rulers of the Holy Roman Empire—apparently so called, as it is often said, because it was neither an empire, nor Roman, nor had it any well-founded pretensions to holiness— the whole of it was then handed over to the two great bishoprics of Trent in the S. and Brixen in the N., which were at that period exercising spiritual jurisdiction over it ; and at the same time the whole of the southern portion, which until then had been Italian, was transferred to Germany. But of course spiritual jurisdiction is one thing, and temporal (especially perhaps in those comparatively unenlightened days) is another and a different thing; and in order to discharge the duties cast upon them the two bishops found themselves obliged to call in the aid of those who were better equipped for the purpose than they were themselves. One of the earliest of these persons was Albert, Count of Tyrol—the name ‘ Tyrol’ being that of a castle near Meran, the stronghold of his family, which still exists. This 1s not an occasion on which it 1s necessary to go into lengthy or intricate historical details. All I need say here is that if was only a comparatively short time after this that the Hapsburg family—afterwards and for so long the ruling dynasty of Austria—came on the scene. They are supposed to have originated in the Aar valley in Switzerland, and one of them, named Rudolf, had been elected Emperor before the end of the ‘thirteenth century.1 It was he who annexed by conquest what was then called the Duchy of Austria to the empire, so that from that.time onwards the Hapsburgs became Dukes of Austria. One of his successors, about 100 years later, was clever enough to obtain by negotiation the succession to the throne of Tyrol after the death of the last representative of the family of the counts of that name. In this way the con- nexion between Tyrol and Austria became established ; and when the final break-up of the Holy Roman Empire took place in the year 1806, that connexion was left undisturbed. The sole interruption that occurred before the Great War was in 1 Schloss Hapsburg, near Aarau, still exists, and was visited by the late Emperor Karl and the Empress Zita, while exiles in Switzerland, in 1919.—£ditor.

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The New Frontiers in the Alps. 295 the Napoleonic period, when Tyrol was handed over to Bavaria, only to be restored to Austria a few years later, when the status quo ante was made the order of the day by the Congress which assembled at Vienna on the fall of Napoleon. To understand, however, the position of the matter in our own time, and the precise relations between Tyrol and modern Italy, it is necessary to glance for a moment at the history in later days of the two great provinces of Lombardy and Venetia, by which the whole of the southern part of Tyrol is flanked on either side. I have just said that the main business of the Congress of Vienna in 1815 was to restore as far as possible the status quo; and in conformity with that view both Lombardy and Venetia, as well as Tyrol itself, were handed back to the Austrians, who thus once more became rulers of nearly the whole of Northern Italy, from Piedmont to the Adriatic. Then began the great movement for the liberation and unification of Italy, known as the Risorgymento (or resur- rection), by which, from being (in Metternich’s contemptuous words) a mere ‘ geographical expression,’ she was to become one of the great leading nations of the world—a task which she took close on 100 years to accomplish. To secure Lombardy she fought what is called her first War of Independence in 1859. To regain Venetia she took advan- tage of the struggle for the leadership of modern Germany to assist Prussia against Austria, in what is known as the Seven Weeks’ War of 1866. It must, however, be admitted that, from her own point of view, the latter campaign was not a successful one, either on land or sea ; and though she struggled hard, upon its conclusion, to obtain for herself the southern part of Tyrol, and the Garibaldi troops under General Medici, advancing through Val Sugana, threatened Trent, yet these had to be recalled before accomplishing their task. Under the terms of peace which were then signed, and to which Italy was compelled unwillingly to subscribe, the Austrians retained for another half century not only a big salient in her northern frontier, but, owing to its high ground, one of the gravest danger to her, from its complete domination of her smiling and fertile plains. This frontier, well known to all of you from your acquaintance with the Dolomites, was one of a very artificial nature, though it is true that in many respects it coincided with the limits of jurisdiction formerly belonging to the bishopric of Trent. According to Mr. Coolidge, who may, I suppose, be regarded as one of the leading historians of the Alps, the basis of the

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296 The New Frontiers in the Alps. arrangement adopted was that only those districts should be ceded to Italy, as forming part of Venetia, which had been, not merely taken, but held for some considerable time, in the Middle Ages, by the great Venetian Republic; and that is the reason why Caprile, for instance, then became Italian, whilst the neighbouring towns or villages of Cortina, Primiero, and the hospice of 8. Martino still remained in the hands of Austria, although, equally with it, all situate on the 8S. slope of the Alpine chain. And the same thing applies both to the small district near Botzen known as the Grédner Thal or Val Gardena (where the curious dialect known as Ladin—of unknown origin, but closely allied to the Romansch dialect of the Engadine—still survives), and to the Val Sugana and the territory 8. of Trent, including the towns of Rovereto and Ala. These had once formed part of the realm of the Venetian Republic, but had been taken from it by conquest by the Emperor Maximilian as far back as the beginning of the sixteenth century. However this may be, there can be no doubt that Italy always looked eagerly forward to the day of liberation ; and the Trentino, as it was called—almost entirely Italian- speaking, notwithstanding that politically it remained estranged —was from that time always regarded by her as the dearest and the most important part of the territory as yet unredeemed. But whatever the longings of Italy may have been, things remained in the condition I have described for almost exactly fifty yearslonger. ‘The Great War, however, presented her with her opportunity. She had been, owing to a long series of circumstances, for many years, but only for defensive purposes, a member, with Germany and Austria, of the Triple Alliance. When the war broke out, as we all know, she proclaimed neutrality. The other members of the Triple Alliance were both well aware that nothing would have induced her to throw in her lot actively with them. They bargained, however, very seriously for her continuing neutrality ; and the cession to her of a considerable portion of Tyrol formed an essential part of the negotiations. ‘I'his was all described to us by Mr. Freshfield in a valuable and interesting paper read before the Club in December 1915, and now in vol. 30 of the JouRNAL. In that paper Mr. Freshfield explained at some length, and with the aid of maps he had prepared for the purpose, both the frontier which was offered by Austria, and which included little territory to the N. of Trent, and the alternative frontier offici- ally put forward by the Italian Government, which took in most of the province to the 8S. of a line drawn from W. to E.

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The New Frontvers in the Alps. 297 a little above Botzen, but which fell far short of the main chain of the Eastern Alps alongside the Brenner pass. It is quite unnecessary to deal with these matters now, because the negotiations with Austria, notwithstanding the efforts made by Germany—playing there the part of the honest broker—to induce her to increase her offers, proved wholly abortive; and the matter entered an entirely new phase when, upon the failure of those negotiations, Italy became free to follow her own inclinations and whole-heartedly to join the Allies. This she did by what is known as the Pact of London, which was entered into with them in the spring of the year 1915, but the terms of which were kept secret during the whole of the war. One of the first conditions of that treaty was that, in the event of success coming to the Allies, Italy should become entitled to the whole Tyrolese salient up to the main watershed, that 1s to say, a8 far N.as the Brenner pass. The same difficulties as had presented themselves when the negotiations were taking place with Austria no longer stood in the way when the Allies were the other contracting party. The territory asked for by Italy did not belong to them, and they found it quite easy to give the promise exacted from them. If she had asked for a good deal more, it seems probable that the Allies, in their anxiety to secure her assistance in the hour of their utmost need, would have been ready to concede it. What President Wilson would have said afterwards on the subject is another matter. But though the terms of the treaty were then unknown, Mr. Freshfield had sufficient prescience to allude to them. For he referred in his paper to what he termed the ‘ popular ’ Italian claim, which was voiced in the rhapsodies of Gabriele d’Annunzio, and which in effect almost coincided in this respect with the terms of the Pact of London. But of course at that time the claim was one of a somewhat shadowy character ; and beyond a bare reference to it Mr. Freshfield did not deal with it in his paper, nor did the maps which accompanied it exhibit the Brenner frontier at all. All he told us, and no doubt truly, was that it was based on the principle that the basins of all streams which eventually found their way into the Adriatic should belong to Italy. The Pact of London was signed, and Italy joined the Allies in May, 1915. With the Trentino campaign itself we have nothing to do here. In the end, the Allies, happily, did succeed in the war; the conditions on which Italy was entitled to her stipulated reward became fulfilled; and the new frontier,

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298 The New Frontiers in the Alps. finally settled by the Peace Congress at St. Germain in September, 1919, was one in accordance with the agreement. Apart from all ethnical considerations (some of which I will refer to presently), there can, I think, be no doubt that the present is the natural and proper northern frontier of Italy, although it is quite true that the great Alpine watershed is occasionally disregarded as a political boundary. The case of the canton of Ticino, annexed to Swiss territory by conquest some 500 years ago, affords perhaps the most striking instance of this. The Ticino, in its climate and in all its natural features, is essentially, not Swiss, but Italian, and its inhabitants speak nothing but Italian; but they are perfectly contented with the just and beneficent rule of Switzerland, and nobody dreams of disturbing an arrangement which has now lasted for so long. By a natural frontier, one means a frontier which has (so to speak) been provided by Nature herself, and which makes a clear and effective separation between the territories of adjoin- ing nations. When the time comes in which mankind will form an universal brotherhood, frontiers will be unnecessary. But until that day dawns, the clearer the line of demarcation between those territories, the less the chance of dispute, and the better, consequently, the prospects of peace. Of the terrible disadvantage to which Italy was exposed by the old frontier I have already spoken, and ample proof of it was given during the war itself. The new one avoids all that by reason of the fact that, starting from the Reschen Scheideck pass (where the Eastern Alps begin), and where it meets (though not of course for the first time, as I shall presently explain) the frontier of Switzerland, it follows the main ridge of the Alps nearly the whole way. Of the Oetzthal mountains, as the first group is called, the highest point is the Wildspitze. This the frontier leaves well to the N. and consequently wholly in Austrian territory. This is because, as so often happens, the highest peaks do not rise on the watershed itself. In this case the Wildspitze rises on a spur to the N. of it. But the watershed, and consequently the frontier too, passes over the Weisskugel (the next highest mountain of the group) and the Similaun, after which it takes a turn to the N. and follows the ridges of what are generally known as the Stubai group, passing close to, though not actually over, its highest peak, called the Zuckerhiitl—again left to Austria—whence it descends to the Brenner pass. From the Brenner pass, continuing its journey eastwards, the

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The New Frontiers in the Alps. 299 frontier climbs what are termed the Zillerthal Alps, again follow- ing the watershed over the highest point of this group, called the Hochfeiler (Gran Pilastro), and passing from there to the great group known as the Hohe Tauern (separated from the Zillerthal group by the Krimmler Tauern pass) which includes both the Gross Venediger and the Gross Glockner. Both the latter peaks, however, remain to Austria. At the point of the main water- shed now called the Vetta d'Italia (the most northerly point in the whole of Italy), the line of the new frontier makes a sudden stop. This is just above the Drei Herrn Spitze, so called because in former days the three seignories of Tyrol, Gorz, and Salzburg met there. According to Mr. Coolidge, there exists a controversy between geographers as to what should be reckoned as the true ‘ divide ’ eastwards from that point. There can be no doubt that the main ridge, that is to say the ridge on which the highest peaks are mostly situated, runs pretty well due E. from there. On the other hand, the ridge known as the Carnic Alps, running also eastwards from a point about due 8. from the Drei Herrn Spitze, forms another important watershed. For it provides, with its south-easterly continuation in the Julian Alps, an effective barrier operating to prevent all streams and river basins to its N. and E. from emptying themselves into the Adriatic, and sending them (so to speak) via the Inn and the Danube into the Black Sea. Probably, therefore, what may be regarded as the better opinion is to describe this as the true ‘divide.’ It all depends on the sense (and there is more than one) in which the word is employed. At any rate this is the view which has prevailed in the delimitation of the new frontier. Near the Drei Herrn Spitze it makes a sharp turn, almost at an acute angle, to the &., crosses the large group of glaciers and snowfields known as the Rieserferner, and passes over the Hochgall (called by the Italians Coll’ Alto), the highest peak of this district. After that the frontier follows a low ridge which separates the sources of the Drave on the KE. from those of the Eisack on the W., crosses the Pusterthal three or four miles K. of Toblach, and shortly after joins the ridge of the Carnic Alps, which was the former frontier, close to the Drei Zinnen. Of the Carnic Alps the two highest points are the Coglians and the Kellerwand (both under 10,000 ft.), and the frontier passes over them. It then continues nearly due E. (slightly S. of E.) until reaching Tarvis. The old frontier made a sudden plunge to the 8. long before this—near the Pontebba pass—

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800 The New Frontiers in the Alps. passed over the Monte Canin in the Julian Alps, and made its way pretty well due S., though, of course, with many windings, to the Adriatic. I need hardly remind you that it was so arranged as to pass to the W. of Trieste, which remained still in the hands of Austria. The new frontier has been pushed a good deal farther to the E., so as to include within Italian territory Trieste itself, as well as the whole peninsula of Istria, as far as the port of Fiume. In order to achieve this object, the new frontier continues E. somewhat beyond Tarvis before taking the turn I have spoken of to the §., and for this purpose follows again the watershed of the Julian Alps, near the Predil pass, over the Mangart and the Triglav (Tricorno), the two highest points of the range, the trend being always a little to the E. of 8. I may mention that both Caporetto, where the Italians, owing to a sort of mutiny in a portion of their troops, met with their greatest disaster during the war, and Tolmein (Tolmino), in the castle of which little town Dante is said to have written many of the stanzas of the ‘ Divine Comedy,’ lie close to this part of the frontier. The changes made as the result of the war are thus seen to be very considerable. Before it happened, it might properly have been said that Austria had two lines of frontier in Northern Italy, to the E. of Trent, running in a southerly direction from the Carnic Alps, and bounding on the W. and KE. respectively the province of Venetia, which Italy had acquired in 1866. Of these two lines the westerly one—running up to the Carnic range in a N.K. direction from the Lake of Garda—has been swept away altogether by reason of the Tyrolese salient having been absorbed into Italian territory, whilst the easterly one has been pushed several miles farther back. This is because (as I have already mentioned) the frontier in the Carnics, instead of taking the turn to the 8. a long way before reaching Tarvis, is prolonged farther E. a little beyond that town along the range of the Julians, and only takes the southerly turn in the neighbourhood of the Predil pass. It happens too that it is just there that the boundary begins of the new state of Jugo- Slavia ; and as its territory, under the arrangement that has been made, extends S. right down to Fiume on the Adriatic, Italy (in the region we are now concerned with) no longer has Austria for a neighbour on the E. at all. I have now dealt with the new frontier as far as its northern and eastern aspects are concerned, but I have still something to say about the western side, in relation to that small portion

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Alps. in the Carnic The SELLOPY

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The New Frontiers un the Alps. 301 to the extreme N.W. of the old frontier which lies near the Ortler range. On the old W. frontier of the Tyrolese salient were situated what are sometimes called the Lombard Alps, of which the best known is the Adamello. This was wholly in Italy, though the Presanella, a few feet higher, and belonging to the same group, was just to the K. of the frontier, and so entirely Austrian. And so, of course, was the whole Brenta group, which are true Dolomites, although, unlike the others, lying to the W. of the Adige. Of the old E. frontier running up in a north-easterly direction from the Lake of Garda to the Carnic Alps I have already spoken. Starting from the same point, the western frontier ran up nearly due N. and after passing through the Adamello range continued in the same direction till it reached the well- known group called after the Ortler, the monarch of the Eastern Alps. This mountain itself was wholly Austrian, though some of its immediate neighbours, like the Cevedale and the K6nigsspitze, were on the actual frontier. The whole group has now become entirely Italian. Just to its N. is the Stelvio road, which is probably well known to us all, and to which the same remark is applicable. At the Piz Umbrail, a little higher up, the Swiss frontier was formerly met, and it ran in a northerly direction from there to the Reschen Scheideck pass. This portion of the frontier has naturally not been touched. The only change in respect of it is that, instead of being the line of demarcation between Switzerland and Austria, it is now the line of demarcation between Switzerland and Italy. For the Austrian line has now been pushed northwards to the pass in question. I have thus brought you back to the point from which my description of the new frontier began, and it will be evident to you (as a glance at the map will show) that Italy has now Austria for a neighbour on the N., and on the N. only. I may add that the whole territory thus acquired by Italy as the result of the new arrangements—as far as Tyrol is con- cerned—is in extent something over 5000 square miles. And it is now divided into two provinces—that of Trentino to the S. and that of the Alto-Adige (somewhat the larger of the two) to the N. The population of the whole is somewhat in excess of half a million. Looking now for a moment at the matter, not from the geographical, but from the ethnical or human point of view, the position, as regards the questions that present themselves, VOL. XL.—NO, CCXXXVIJ. x

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802 The New Frontiers in the Alps. or are likely hereafter to present themselves, for solution, is somewhat less satisfactory. With regard to the Trentino itself, there has been, and will be, no real difficulty. Notwith- standing its long history, during which, as I have pointed out, it has for many centuries been under the domination of Austnia, it has been Italian in aspect, Italian in speech, and Italian in heart; and to it the change which has been made, and its incorporation with Italy as the great, and (humanly speaking) the final step in the unification of that kingdom, can have brought little but satisfaction and joy. But in the northern division—that of the Alto-Adige—things are very different. In that part, which for present purposes may be said to include the whole of the Tyrolese salient to the N. of a hori- zontal line drawn through Botzen or slightly below it, the conditions which prevail in the Trentino are exactly reversed. Almost universally, the language spoken here was German. The Italian-speaking part of the population, instead of forming -@ vast majority, were here in numbers proportionately insigni- ficant. In consequence of that, and perhaps also in consequence of their closer proximity to the main part of Austria, there can be little doubt that the change to them (speaking of them here as a whole) has been most unwelcome; and it is impossible not to feel great sympathy with them in their present position. This, however, is an imperfect world, and one in which the sins of the guilty, as we all know, are often visited on the heads of the innocent. A long and bitter experience—greatly strengthened, as I have pointed out, by the war itself—had taught Italy that when the hour sounded she must, for her own safety, secure a proper strategic frontier in the Alps; and _ if the observations I have already made are correct, I think that it must be obvious that nothing short of the present line would have been in reality sufficient for the purpose. It 1s scarcely to the point to say—what is no doubt true— that in the whole course of history the Brenner pass has never formed a frontier, and that the great watershed alongside it has always connected, and never divided, the population on either side. Exactly the same thing might be said of the Pyrenees, which form, and have for long centuries formed, the frontier between France and Spain. The Basques, supposed to be the most ancient race in Europe, live on both sides of it, and that frontier consequently has split that race in two. Moreover, you have only to look at the present map of Kurope to realize that exactly the same thing has happened—and on a much larger scale—elsewhere. Millions of Austrian subjects

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The New Frontiers in the Alps. 808 have been handed over to Jugo-Slavia, to Czecho-Slovakia, to Roumania, and to Poland by the Peace Congresses, without even the existence of any reason that the new arrangements were Called for, as they were here, by considerations of national security. In no case has the principle of self-determination been invoked, any more than it was here. What, however, 1s to happen in the future lies, as they say, on the knees of the gods. No man can tell. It is often said that it is impossible to coerce a nation, or even a section of a nation, by forcing upon it a foreign allegiance which is repugnant to its taste; and history is full of illustrations on this point. How far this will apply here remains to be seen. Italy herself is passing at the present time, as we all know, through a remarkable stage of development, the result of which for the moment is quite hidden from us. There is one important factor not to be lost sight of. It 1s often said that the proper administrative unit 1s the economic. Under the new dispensation, vast industrial hydro-electric schemes have already been started in the province for the utilization of the immense water power which is to be found there ; and huge works are in active progress in the immediate neighbourhood of Botzen, as the result of which the electric current will light the whole of Italy as far south as Florence. Under the old régime anything like this was impossible. There was (so to speak) no hinterland to serve, for (as I have already mentioned) all the rivers of the province—the most important for this purpose being the Eisack (Isargo)—empty themselves into the Adriatic, and so ran quite the wrong way for Austria, though it is the right one for Italy. It is difficult to believe that works of this kind, and on this scale, will not, by bringing labour and wealth into the whole district, have a potent effect in reconciling the inhabitants to the new dispensation. A great deal, too, will naturally depend on the attitude of the Italian Government. That the Italian language should be taught compulsorily to children in the schools is perhaps reason- able enough. But it is a long step from that to the wholesale suppression of German; and one can only hope that the proposals to that effect of the extreme nationalists will not be allowed to prevail. Schemes of this kind have scldom succeeded, and are, I think, greatly to be deplored. A note of warning may here be apposite, not to place too much reliance on the accounts which from time to time reach us—chiefly of course from German sources—as to the methods

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804 Some Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions. pursued in these matters by the Italian authorities. There was a4 ridiculous story, for instance, which got into circulation a little while ago, to the effect that an order was being enforced that all the existing inscriptions on the tombstones in the church- yards, which were naturally in German, should be erased, and new Italian equivalents substituted for them—a story which appears to have had no better foundation than an order that an future the epitaphs should be in the national language. At the same time it 1s to be hoped that moderation—which, as I venture to think, 1s the keynote to anything like a per- manent good result in Italy’s task of conciliation—will, as much as possible, be permitted to prevail; for if that line of policy is pursued, it may, I believe, quite fairly be expected that things generally in the province of the Alto-Adige will im- prove gradually. Time, as we all know, is a great healer; and I think that there 1s good ground for entertaining hope that, at all events when the present generation will have passed away, the asperities of to-day will become softened and toned down, and the annexed province come to take its place as an essential and contented portion of the new and united Italy. SomsE MouNTAINEERING E;XPERIENCES AND CONCLUSIONS. By E. H. F. BRADBY. (Read before the Alpine Club, May 1, 1928.) HAVE often wondered when looking round at the familiar faces one sees at these meetings, why such-and-such a member took to climbing and what was his first ascent. Was he a wanderer who, with knapsack on his back, had roamed over most of the beautiful country in the British Isles and was then drawn to the Alps, the best wandering ground of all, and so became an easy victim to the mountaineering fever, or was he, as I was, by the wisdom of his parents, taken from the joys of a summer holiday in England to the somewhat doubtful pleasures of a family gathering in the Alps? If so, how little did he realise what influence that holiday was to have upon his subsequent life. It was in August 1884 that I joined from school my family at Engelberg. Fired by an intense desire to pick edelweiss, and searching for it on some steep grass slopes with insufficient nails in my boots, I soon had my first Alpine

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Some Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions. 805 experience, for up went my feet and down I came, but luckily saved myself by clutching a rock. Many persons must, I sup- pose, have been killed whilst gathering edelweiss, and even now it is thought by most people to be rather an achievement to pick it, and yet it grows in profusion on the gentlest of slopes and in the most accessible places. At any rate that slip gave me, and I still retain, a wholesome respect for steep grass slopes, especially those covered by that coarse prickly grass that is torture to the fingers and even penetrates one’s clothing and is found at anything over 7000 ft., especially on granite mountains. The late Dr. Wills told me that once, when with his father, the judge, and his brother Jack, he slipped somewhere near the Eagle’s Nest, on one of those steep grassy terraces so frequent on limestone cliffs. He fell clean over a short step of rock about 4 or 5 ft. on to the next terrace, landed on what we will call the soft part of his back and was happily able to pull up unharmed just before coming to the next step. How often have we, in the early morning before dawn, especially when with a guideless party, somehow or other missed the track or path and found ourselves committed to steep grass gullies and rocks. We struggle on in the dim light, feeling nevertheless that it would be wiser to put on the rope, but not liking to suggest it to our companions, thinking that every moment we must be coming to easier ground and that it would only delay the party. Then someone, who is more or less leading, suggests that we shall find it easier on the left or right. We take his advice, but find that on the contrary it is much more difficult ; rather than go back, however, and get well behind, we manage with some anxious moments to negotiate steps that are more difficult than any we shall find on the rest of the climb. When, at last, panting and ruffled we get to easier ground, we hear from the distance the rest of the party shouting angrily and asking where on earth we have got to. My first ascent was that of the Titlis in 1884—a family party—with two guides and a friend of my parents to look after us. He had had very little mountaineering experience but had done some walking with a fat Irish priest. The priest, when his wind failed him, as it often did, always used to stop, mopping his brows, with the same exclamation, ‘ Oh ! the glory of the view. Oh! the beauty of the pine forests.” Never shall I forget the excitement of sleeping at the Engstlen Alp, the rats which then infested the Inn, the early start on the following morning in doubtful weather, the five or six bottles of wine and the vast mass of provisions taken by the guides,

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806 Some Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions. sufficient to feed an army. Arriving at the glacier, there was the interest of being roped together for the first time, but even we thought that it was somewhat peculiar that there should not be more than 2 ft. of rope between us, and I remember distinctly getting into hot water by treading on the somewhat trailing mackintosh of my elder brother, who was next to me in front, and rending it in twain. We had no gloves and no spectacles. It came on to snow with a nasty cold wind, and the non-members of the family wished to turn back. It was, a democratic party; the disgrace of returning defeated was too much for us, and, by four votes to three, it was decided that we should proceed. We reached the top, and although the weather had improved saw nothing. The guides, having con- sumed the greater part of the wine and the rest on the way down, became drunk. They were, however, sober enough to get the rope into the sack, and we returned, leaving the guides behind, triumphant, pestered on the way down by another drunken man who, uninvited, attached himself to the party. We managed to shake him off by running and he, trying to emulate us, to our great delight stretched his length upon the path. Except for slight frost-bite of the fingers of two of the family we were none the worse, and very pleased with ourselves. I doubt whether a worse equipped party ever started on a mountain expedition. Now contrast such an expedition as I have had the audacity to describe with that of Mr. Graham Brown and Mr. Smythe on the Brenva face of Mt. Blanc, and what a difference there is. It must be remembered that one climbs a mountain for the joy and the thrill that it gives and not solely for the satisfaction of having done it; the best climbs are those which give us the greatest enjoyment at the time and afterwards. It is true that as we grow more proficient in the art, the thought of ascending ordinary mountains by the ordinary routes with ordinary guides would be unendurable and that the thrill may be more difficult to obtain. The Alps, not to mention other mountain districts, are so vast and still offer such a field for initiative and skill that even the most proficient climbers are not likely to look in vain for pleasurable excitement, as even the easy mountain may sometimes provide thrills which are quite unexpected. Defoe and his party, if I remember rightly, were nearly overcome by the highly rarefied state of the air when ascending Cheviot, and Mr. Charles Tennant, in November 1821, was unable for the same reason to stop more than about twenty minutes at the Flégére. Messrs. Graham

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Some Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions. 807 Brown and Smythe’s thrill was, I am sure, the Red Sentinel, the only safe place on that vast face. The reader of that most interesting paper describing their climb, spoke of it with evident affection, almost with a tremor in his voice. Many of those puzzling downward photographs were, I think, meant, if possible, to record the Red Sentinel from a different point of view. As slide after slide came on the screen I found myself looking at once for the Red Sentinel (generally marked by a cross), and it made such an impression upon my mind that I dream about it. I long to nestle in its arms in perfect safety, and see the avalanches hurtling by on either side. What an experience it would be to spend a day or two in fine weather beneath its friendly shelter! My only fear is that if I ever got there I might never have the courage to come away. Their thrill, I doubt not, on that great climb was, as I have already said, the Red Sentinel, My thrill on the Titlis was, apart from the novelty and fun of the whole proceeding, the drunken guides. My first guideless expedition a year or two afterwards might have had a more serious ending. Most of the family party (who were on the Titlis) equipped with alpen-stocks, and accom- panied by a young friend, while descending the Fisistécke at Engelberg, found some winter avalanche snow in a gully. This, we thought, must be just the place for glissading, so I was sent down first, quickly followed by my sister and the friend. Both lost their footing and came down at express speed. I interposed my body between my sister and the boulders at the bottom, where the somewhat steep snow slope ended, but the friend managed to raise himself on his feet and somehow or other went head first on to the rocks. How he escaped fatal injury I don’t know, but the fact remains that he only cut his head slightly and bruised his shoulder—truly the mountains are merciful. I certainly had more exciting experiences in the first few years of climbing than in the whole of my subsequent moun- taineering career, but I do not intend to mention them except on one particular climb, and that was the traverse of the Grand Cornier from Ferpécle to Zinal with two guides and my elder brother. On the ascent Pierre Maitre, the leading guide, dislodged a great slab of rock, which very narrowly missed those below. The mountain was in very bad condition, and we descended by the left bank of the small glacier which is immediately below the Bouquetin and which flows into the Durand Glacier. This must have been an unusual route in

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808 Some Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions. those days and was certainly new to the guides. On the descent, when cutting steps down some fairly steep hard ice, with about two inches of soft snow on it, my brother, who was last but one on the rope, slipped, dragging Pierre Maitre, who was last on the rope, with him. Pierre Maitre fell on to me, knocking me out, and Quinodoz, the leader, following suit, down we went. As fortune would have it we pulled up when the slope eased off, just before a drop of some 20 ft. or more on to blocks of ice. I remember Pierre Maitre looking very pale and Quinodoz quietly lighting his pipe. Now I did not then know much about climbing, but 1t struck me that 1f such occurrences were fairly common, and I assumed they were, climbing was, to say the least of it, a very exciting pastime. I was, however, puzzled because I knew the names of climbers who had lived to a ripe old age and wondered how they had managed to do so. Soon I learnt that these were not the everyday incidents of the usual climb and that the sport, although exhilarating, was not really a dangerous one. Eliminate all risks and half the enjoyment would be gone. I had, I think, had my second lesson, that a slip on hard ice, unless the man who slips is directly below, is very difficult, if not impossible to stop, and here, perhaps, you will allow me to discuss the matter a little further. The question was dealt with at some length in a paper on ‘Alpine Dangers,’ read before the Alpine Club by the late Sir Leslie Stephen in June 1866. I quote from his paper: ‘Mr. Ball says that against this danger (that of slipping on an ice slope) the rope is usually an effectual preservative and he doubts whether there be any slopes that have yet to be surmounted where two men well used to the business could not hold up a third who might slip, especially if the third be not wanting in steadiness and presence of mind. On this point I must venture to differ from Mr. Ball and very many Alpine travellers whose opinions I sincerely respect.’ In his paper Sir Leslie Stephen seems to come to the con- clusion that if a party is traversing on hard ice, a slip by the person at either end of the rope means disaster. That paper was read some sixty-two years ago. Was he right or wrong ? Have crampons made any difference? I believe he was night, but yet I have very little ground for coming to this conclusion. Kiveryone is naturally very reticent about a slip on a mountain, especially if it has happened fairly recently; he prefers to keep the matter to himself, and reliable information is hard to

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Some Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions. 809 come by. I hope that some members will to-night throw reticence to the winds, as I have done, and help us with informa- tion, for itis an important point. Most of us feel that the strain of climbing on steep, hard ice is more than the strain of climbing steep rock, partly no doubt owing to the more or less forced inactivity of all members of the party except the leader. — It is bad enough moving ourselves, but worse to watch the move- ments of the other members. We even find ourselves looking down to see what will receive us if anyone does slip, and it is & satisfaction to know that we cannot possibly survive a fall. We have all at times felt the strain of climbing on hard ice. Some few years ago when with a guideless party, five on one rope, descending from the Schreck Sattel on a warm afternoon, four of the party were at the same time on ice with a little sloppy snow on the top. One of the four, who was off colour, by way of encouraging the others said in a plaintive voice, that if he or anyone else slipped, the whole party would go. I was able to assure him that that was not correct, because as I was still comfortably seated on the rock with the rope well belayed below me, it must either hold or break, in which latter case I should still be comfortably seated where I was and that I did not doubt I should be able to carry the melancholy news to Grindelwald. He went down the rest of the slope as con- fidently as if he was on his own staircase at home, as much as to say ‘I will see you further first... When I began to descend very cautiously he had the effrontery to tell me to hurry up. How much more comfortable should we be if we knew that an ordinary slip on hard ice would almost certainly be checked, but is this the case? That two men could hold, if the rope were taut, a man who had slipped directly below them I do not doubt, but I do not believe that they would, even in good steps, hold a man who had slipped on a traverse, even though the party were wearing crampons, which, although they give a feeling of security, do not, in my opinion, help very much on hard ice. I have discussed the matter with Ulrich Almer, no mean authority on the subject; he agreed with my view. When I asked him what he did when climbing with people he was not sure of, he replied that he cut such big steps that they could not slip. The labour involved makes one almost shudder. On the other hand, Walter Risch, a brilliant rock climber and a man of great strength, who, with Herr Ziircher, first climbed the 1 See, however, A.J. 25, 4; 81, 261; the party were not wearing crampons.—E dior.

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8310 Some Mountaineermg Experiences and Conclusions. N. buttress of the Piz Badile, told me that he once held two men on ice who had come off directly below him—a wonderful feat. For some years after the experience last mentioned I climbed alone, sometimes with a guide, sometimes with a guide and a porter, and mostly in July. I am very glad I did so, because there is no question that one learns a great deal of the climbing art from a good guide and in a shorter time than one would otherwise do unless one was fortunate enough to have very experienced companions. I would recommend any beginner, if he has a long enough purse, to climb with a really first-class guide, and, if he cannot afford it, then, if possible, to get hold of some chamois hunter, preferably one who has not been up the mountains he proposes to climb but is keen to have the chance. If he does not make as many ascents in the district as he might otherwise do with a second-class guide, who would take him up and down each mountain as fast as possible, he will have a very much better time. There are some men who, when they have done a good deal of guideless climbing, feel that they can never climb again with guides. I am not one of their number, although, of course, it depends upon what sort of guide you get. What could be more charming, for instance, than having a day out, as I have had, with that grand old gentleman, Christian Klucker, with his knowledge of botany and geology and mountain craft ? What could be more interesting, knowing something at any rate of mountaineering technique, than watching and learning his methods ? for, although the standard of climbing amongst guideless parties has much increased during recent years, I still think that the very best amateur 1s not as good as the really first-class guide. It was in those years that I was climbing alone with guides, that I went chamois hunting in July. Stricken down after eating some tinned green peas at La Bérarde, Christophe Ture came to me one evening after I had taken a decided turn for - the better. He informed me that as the weather was so fine we must go for some expedition next morning. I told him that I was not up to it. Then, he said, we will go chamois hunting instead. I reminded him that it was July, but he informed me that this was really of no consequence. I said I had no gun. He said he had an old one. So off we went in the early morning, I armed with an old blunderbuss. Unfortu- nately he spotted a couple of chamois in the distance, and, having made a long détour to get near them at a reckless pace, I, thoroughly done up, following as best I could well in the rear,

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Some Mountaineering Experences and Conclusions. 811 longed at times for the rope but was afraid to show the white feather. After what seemed to me hours and hours we rounded a corner and mercifully found our quarry gone. I was so exhausted that I slept for about two hours; chamois hunting for the day was over, we basked in the sun and returned quietly home in the cool of the evening—a delightful experience. On another occasion, on an ascent of the Fiinffingerspitze with a guide and a porter, I was surprised when a youth of about eighteen, who was evidently a friend of my companions, joined the party with his own food, evidently intending to have the day out. I said that if he came he must come with . us onthe rope. This seemed to cause a good deal of amusement amongst my companions, and I was told that there was only rope for three and that I could feel quite happy about it. I could almost see, should anything untoward happen to him, the paragraph that would appear in the ALPINE JOURNAL, to the effect that the unfortunate accident was due to the unpar- donable neglect of allowing one of the party to climb unroped ; but what was one to do? I had not the heart to turn the young sportsman back, and a wonderful rock climber he was and thoroughly he enjoyed himself. Do exceptional circumstances sometimes justify us in departing from the strict rules of mountaineering ? It was then my very good fortune to meet Dr. Wilson and the late Mr. Wicks and climb for many years with them; Kesteven in the early part and the late Dr. Wills in the latter part, were often members of our party. It was a great honour to be allowed to join such accomplished mountaineers, and if there was any really difficult climbing to be done, it was not I that did it. On looking back on that most delightful time I think I was of considerable use as a beast of burden, and although we took it in turns to lead, and, in a guideless party every member should be able to lead, I found that I was often put in front out of my turn to lead up soft and steep snow slopes. It was in July 1907 that Dr. Wilson and I were, after a day or two's training in bad weather, crossing the Kaltwasser Glacier from the Simplon to Veglia. There had been a good deal of new snow. The day was fine and misty and the snow excep- tionally soft. I happened to be leading and went plump into a hidden crevasse on a flattish part of the glacier and hung with my head about 8 ft. from the top of the crevasse, the two ropes making a right angle as they came over the edge. Solitary climbers will say that there is no necessity to walk into a crevasse, and it is believed that Klucker has never been in above

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812 Some Mountaineering Experiences and Conclusions. his knees,? but there must be a good few members of this Club who have had the experience. Certainly it is not pleasant to find oneself hanging, as I did, 8 ft. below the lip with a green ice wall descending on either side as far as one can see. You wonder why you begin to feel so queer, but the queerness is really due to a great extent to the pressure of the rope and therefore the first thing to be done, if possible, is to let down a rope with a loop at the end in which the man in the crevasse can stand. We were for safety’s sake on a double rope but had not a spare rope with us. Wilson at once drove his axe deep into a crack and fixed one rope firmly round it so that I could not slip further down. At the first attempt to get out, I pulled on the rope attached to the axe and Wilson on the other and I managed to get the top of my head about level with the edge of the crevasse, but I could not get my arms over the edge to pull on my flat rope and Wilson could not single-handed pull me vertically upward with the other rope, both ropes mean- while cutting into the lip of the crevasse. Wilson therefore had to let me down the height I had gained, and I was in the same position as I was before, still hanging on the rope attached to his ice axe. He then came to the edge and I was able to hand him my axe, which mercifully I had not lost ; he then cut a trough in the ice down nearly to the level of my head so that my arms could pull at a diagonal angle and his rope run easier. We felt it was then or never, and after a tussle, in which I got my shoulders into the trough, I was landed like a gasping fish on terra firma, practically done up, and, I was told, pretty blue in the face. This was from a climbing point of view an interest- ing experience, because it does show that where two men are climbing on a double rope and one man falls into a crevasse he can be got out ; but had I had a loop or ‘stirrup’ to stand in, it would have been muchsimpler. At thesame time, if the crevasse had been much wider, and I had gone through the snow bridge in the middle, the position would have been much more serious, and with the difficulty of the ropes cutting into the edge I should probably have never got out. Even with a party of four I gather, although I have never had the experience, that it 1s most difficult to extricate a man who has fallen into a big crevasse. It is, of course, easier to pull a man out on the side opposite to that on which he has fallen in, if you can cross the crevasse for that purpose, and possibly, in some places, an ice axe could be placed on the edge of the crevasse over which the 2 A.J. 81, 145.—Editor.

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Some Mountaineermg Experiences and Conclusions. 818 rope could run. No doubt there are some members here to- night who have had the experience, and will, I hope, be able to give us some useful hints. You must be tired of hearing about mishaps which, however, have been described with the definite object of obtaining information. Let me briefly describe another incident of a very different kind. On August 2, 1911, Wilson, Wicks, and myself had struggled from Masino-Bagni up to the Allievi Hut on a some- what hot afternoon—a long and fatiguing walk as we had heavy sacks. Hoping to have the hut to ourselves, we were disap- pointed to see, as we neared it, that there were three persons already there. They subsequently turned out to be two Italian gentlemen and a lady, the sister of one of them. As we came to the door, one of the men came out of the hut with some salt, meaning to give it to the mountain-goats. We had just sat down at the wooden table, to have something to eat, when one of the men came in, followed by his two companions, with blood on his face and looking as if he had had a nasty fall. They took him into the inner room and the sister then came out and asked if any one of us happened to be a doctor. Wilson at once attended to him. It turned out that the goats, which - had increased in numbers, were so eager for the salt that they had crowded in on to the platform upon which the hut was built, between him and the wall of the hut and had gradually pushed him over the edge of the platform on to the broken ground below, with the result that he had dislocated his shoulder and cut his face. A wonderful piece of luck to find a doctor in such a place. What would one have done if one had been alone or with a guide? I have been told that if a man dis- locates his shoulder and you do not know how to get it in, all you have to do is to get him to stand upright, go behind him, and then suddenly pull his feet from under him sending him on to his face; the fall will probably send his shoulder in, but it is a somewhat drastic remedy ; and I doubt whether I should have vengured on the treatment. The obvious conclusion to be drawn from this incident is that one should be very careful how one gives salt to mountain-goats. The average age of members of this Club must be something in the neighbourhood of forty-five. Committed to mountaineering, they may well ask how long will they continue to enjoy the mountains. When about sixty, will they probably find that the sack appears heavier than it did, that their power of recuperation is not what it used to be, and that long and arduous expeditions do not do them much good from a physical

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814 Some Mountaineering Expervences and Conclusions. point of view and leave them tired? Can the mountains offer them anything else? Will they grow restless in the Alps when looking in the distance on the scenes of their former triumphs ? They will recall those delightful days when everything went well: the walk in the moonlight with an occasional glimpse of the distant snow peaks which seemed to belong to another world, so strangely beautiful and ethereal they looked; the lovely dawn, the hard crisp snow on the glacier with its wonder- ful undulations and curves; the warm, dry rocks, the excitement of the struggle up that last few hundred feet ; the cool breeze at the top, the distant view when range after range of mountains slowly melted into the plains, and that as they picked out old friends soothed by the distant sound of the torrent far below they sank into a dreamless and blissful sleep. Will the thought that these are for them ‘ The days that are no more’ be too much for them? Will they try to realize, as Sir Martin Conway once pointed out in a Paper read by him to this Club, that beauty is where you are and that you must not seek it; that the mountains are most beautiful from a distance and that guide-books and route-finding shatter the romance ? Some may feel that they cannot stand it and they will turn to ‘fresh woods and pastures new.’ Others, and I think the majority, will find that years have brought a keener apprecia- tion of beauty ; they will be content to explore the unfrequented lesser heights—and there are many of them—which in the heyday of their climbing career they would have despised, and will find how really satisfying and beautiful they are. The very beauty of the Alpine flowers will become one long delight. Certainly as we become older we get more and more inclined to get away alone from the haunts of men, especially if we live in towns, though solitary climbing, except possibly on hills and mountains without glaciers, should not be encouraged. To walk alone, to stop when you like, hurry when you like, eat when you like, sleep when you like, and do exactly as your fancy takes you is very pleasant. You seem grgdually to become absorbed in nature, to see and hear things you have never seen or heard before. Have you never after six or seven hours solitary walking on a warm summer day cast yourself down in the evening on the grass on some lonely down or moor and gently fanned by the cool breeze heard strange musical tinkling noises in the grass, just as if the fairies were playing to you on some tiny musical instruments? Imagination, overstrain, blood-pressure, the matter-of-fact person will say. Possibly it may be so, but, all the same, walk for seven or eight

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The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. 815 hours round Kensington Gardens or some of the commons in the neighbourhood of London and then throw yourself down on some likely spot. Will you hear such charming sounds in such a place? Of course not, even if you were to wait until Doomsday. People sometimes say, ‘ Yes, the mountains are very beautiful but they look so cruel.’ Cruel in the sense, I suppose, that people say the sea looks cruel because human lives have been lost upon it; but if we, of our own free will and for our own pleasure, choose to wander about what has been called ‘ the great laboratory of nature,’ where its forces are unrestrained, is it surprising that there are occasional mishaps, and is it the fault of the mountains ? I for my part would prefer to believe that there is a Providence that watches over the footsteps of the mountaineer. Cast your mind back for one brief minute over your climbing career. Has not the stone missed you by inches, the avalanche of rock snow or ice fallen into the couloir or on to the glacier just after you had crossed its tracks, that splendid hand-hold come just in the nick of time? When storm and night were closing in and you had lost your way, has not the mist lifted just for those few moments which were sufficient to enable you to get your bearings ; even the friendly lightning shown you the way off that never ending ridge which you had been descending, finally in the dark, on to the glacier below? And other incidents will come crowding into your minds. At any rate we back our luck. If not, why is it when in some tight place, we swear by all the gods that if we only escape with a whole skin, never, never again, will we be such fools and, sooner or later, we find ourselves once again making exactly the same vow ? THe EasTeERN ARETE OF THE SIGNALKUPPE. (Punta Gnifettr.) By MAX M. STRUMIA. T the opening of the 1927 season memories of early scrambles brought my sister and myself to that almost forgotten portion of the Northern Cottian Alps extending from Monte Granero to the great Monte Viso, a rugged rocky ridge

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816 The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. that closes the high valley of the Po with a gigantic black wall. In two days, guideless, we crossed from the Val Pellice to the Refuge Ballif-Viso of the C.A.F., climbing Monte Meidassa, Monte Granero by the E. aréte, and the Pointe de la Traversette, of which we succeeded in making the first ascent of the S.W. face. From the Ballif-Viso refuge in one day we climbed Roccie Fourioun, point 8095 m., P. Udine, P. Roma, and crossed the Passo del Colonnello, descending to the Pian del Re in the valley of the Po. Our physical training was much benefited by the tour, but we were as yet far from the Mountain. Merely to climb is too crude ; the simple conquest does not add very much to the sum of mental processes that form the essence of climbing. It takes a while for the mind to expand out of its shell of mediocrities and the daily commonplace. So we wandered for days about quiet green valleys to solitary huts lost in the mystic peace of forgotten corners of the Alps, where men and things are still near enough to nature to reintroduce us to it. The weather was keeping pace with us. With the fast melting of the snow the strong appeal of the classic and the human interest called us to the long desired Matterhorn, where & severe snowstorm which blocked us! for two days in the Luigi Amedeo hut, did not keep us from reaching the top by the original route of the ‘Galerie’ of J. A. Carrel. Those bleak, ice-glazed, smooth rock slabs dominating the fearfully magnetic Tiefenmatten precipice appeared that day animated with the almost legendary figures of the epic struggle, and the impression received from that climb is one of the deepest ever experienced. By the N.E. ridge and the Furggenjoch we returned the same night to Breuil, our starting point. Here my sister left us for the valley of Gressoney, and two days later with Dr. Barisone of the C.A.A.I. and Luigi Carrel we climbed the N. face of the Breithorn from the Triftje, a climb which failed to produce much impression, probably due to the favour- 1 Miss Mary Strumia; Luigi Carrel, guide; Pietro Daniele Pellissier, porter. 2 In climbing the Matterhorn we followed faithfully the route known as the ‘ Galerie’ of J. A. Carrel; viz., the one followed by the party led by Jean Antoine Carrel, which made the first ascent from the Italian side, July 17,1865. Atthe rappel place, before reaching the Z’mutt aréte, at the end of the ‘Galerie,’ we found two iron pitons, one well preserved, the other reduced to a rusty blade of iron.

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The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. 317 able condition of the snow, that allowed us to accomplish the climb in 4 hours 20 minutes, without halts, from the Triftje, cutting in all but about 200 steps. By this time the desire of the unknown, of the difficult, of the new, dominated our thoughts. It is a natural evolution of the climber’s psychology, although sometimes merely a matter of improved physical condition. The only great routes of the high Alps that are not as yet over- run with climbers and strewn with tins are those that cannot boast of some spectacular accident to advertise them, those offering great difficulty or risk, and those not provided with a good hut close at hand. The E. ridge of the Signalkuppe has just gone out of the last category, but still holds fast to the other two and will remain a great climb. We selected it as the closing climb of the season. The party had now dwindled down to Luigi Carrel and myself. When we reached Alagna on the afternoon of August 10, our plans called for the addition of two porters to carry for us sacks and blankets to a bivouac place near the Signaljoch, whence Carrel and I would climb the EK. ridge of the Signalkuppe, the porters meanwhile returning to Alagna. The material for a fixed bivouac, which the Italian Academic Alpine Club had decided to erect near the Signaljoch, had never gone any further than the Vigne Alp. At Alagna we learned that a refuge was being built near the Punta Tre Amici, one hour from the Signaljoch. We could not, however, obtain any definite information on the progress of its construction, so we had to prepare for a bivouac. Our quest for blankets in addition to those we had met with complete failure, but after long searching a forgotten store yielded one small blanket. As to porters, they were even more scarce than blankets. Just as we had decided to accept the services of a mule, as far as it could go, we had the fortune to come across a young man, stockily built, and very keen. Would he accompany us as far as the Alp von Flua? Of course! Could he perhaps accompany us any further ? Indeed he would; he could go anywhere; he was a guide, anyhow, but had not as yet been enrolled by the Italian Alpine Club. We felt very lucky that we had run across such @ find and gladly accepted his services. When at 3 p.m. we finally got under way, the weather had turned definitely bad. It was hot and oppressive, and a little yay out of Alagna a rainstorm reached us.. At 6.80 we were at the Flua Alp, properly soaked, but in time to avoid a worse drenching. Of bivouacking higher up that night we had lost VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. Y

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318 The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. all hope and desire; the weather was getting worse and our spirits hung low as the clouds slowly drifted up from the valley —surely a bad sign. Under these circumstances we were all the more grateful for the warm hospitality offered us by the proprietor of one of the huts. At sunset the rain ceased ; later we came out to see the moon beaming between veils of white clouds torn by a strong, cold, northerly wind, and our hopes rose with its peaceful, silvery light. More rain, however, fell that night ; and the pitiless squalls of rain came in waves to batter the little window and shatter once more our plans for the morrow. After midnight the storm subsided ; the wind brought the wavering rumble of the over- flowing creek and the muffled bells of the sleepy flock. We were up early; at 4 a.m. we left the peaceful hamlet. Outside it was inky dark and cold, and a strong breeze was blowing from the glacier. Our man from Alagna offered to accompany us as far as the Signaljoch ; at his request we added a man from the Alp to our staff so that they could return together safely. Our programme was now to reach the Signaljoch ; from there climb along the E. aréte as far as possible and either reach the Regina Margherita hut or bivouac somewhere on the ridge. As we sleepily advanced over the steep, grassy slopes immediately above the huts of Le Vigne Superior, the man from the Flua Alp told me that his family had brought the cattle to graze there 107 years before, and that his grandfather could well remember the time when the south portion of the Loccie Glacier reached the upper border of the grassy slopes, and rolled down huge rocks, making the pastures dangerous. The ice tongue is now perhaps 700 ft. from the top of the old morainal deposit at the head of the grassy slope; a retreat of a little more than one-eighth of a mile in about 75 years. Having reached the moraine, we walked along it for a short while before stepping over the flat uncovered portion of the Loccie Glacier. There we divided in two ropes: Carrel and I leading, with the porters following. We proceeded rapidly over the glacier, leaving to the right the tracks leading to the Colle delle Loccie, until we came upon the foot of the K. end of the Signalgrat, the ridge forming the continuation of the E. aréte of the Signalkuppe. We were then in full view of the new hut, and immediately below it (6 a.m.). There we turned to the left and followed the foot of the Signalgrat along the upper portion of the Vigne Glacier, passing immediately above the rocky islet of the Loccie. The ice unfortunately was now covered with powdery snow and bore unmistakable evidence of

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Photo, M. Strumia. The E. aréte of SIGNALKUPPE from Signalgrat E. of Signaljoch. H. W. Topham’s route. -------- M. Strumia’s route. The small snow triangle at the point of intersection of the two route one to which reference is made in the text. s is the

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CLVMYIVNODIS O48 st qa oy} 07 oA0GQY) LAL PLLODUSHAY "PUES “IN “OO ~ Rene Taw 2 5 7 \

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The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. 819 falling rocks. The early hour, however, made our position relatively safe. At 6.80 we reached the foot of the final ice slope that was to bring us to the Signaljoch. Carrel was cutting through a thin layer of snow on to the solid ice, as our porters had no crampons, when a shout came from behind. Bad news: our porter from Alagna could not proceed. Why? His com- panion did not possess snow-goggles. A pair was produced. It would not be safe, anyhow, for them to return from the Col. Neither money, reasoning, nor verbal lashing moved them, the man from Alagna finally confessing that he had nothing to do with the C.A.I. We had to assume their loads and so, burdened beyond honest limits, and in no humour to enjoy a climb, we turned to the rocky ridge immediately to the nght of the ice slope descending from the Signaljoch. This we did to save cutting on the steep slopes immediately below the Col. The rocks were steep, rotten, and covered with over 5 in. of fresh snow. It took us 14 hours to reach the ridge of the Signalgrat at a point about 100 ft. EK. of the Signaljoch, upon which we descended easily. In front of us rose majestically the K. aréte of the Signalkuppe, literally covered with fresh snow.® The difficulty experienced * The first ascent of the Eastern aréte of the Signalkuppe was accomplished by the late H. W. Topham, with Alois Supersax and a porter, July 26, 1887. From the foot of the western slopes of the Punta Tre Amici they followed the Szgnalgrat to the Signaljoch (1 hour). From there in 20 minutes they attained a snowfield. The ‘ Great Gendarme ’ was turned first on the Macugnaga side, the aréte being regained about half-way up the former by a series of steep, icy plagues. (The point at which the route crosses the aréte of the “Great Gendarme ’ corresponds to the snowy triangle pointed out to us by the guide Chiara.) The party then descended on the Alagna slope over a series of easy ledges and then mounted again direct to the aréte above the top of the “Great Gendarme.’ It is obvious, therefore, that this route does not follow the aréte for a tract about 800 ft. in height, corresponding to the ‘Great Gendarme.’ It was our purpose to attempt a variation of the route followed by Topham by ascending the ‘ Great Gendarme’ strictly along the crest. The parties that have climbed the Signalkuppe by the E. aréte have followed pretty closely the original route: Signori L. Vaccarone - and G. Rey (August 27, 1891); Dr. V. Ronchetti (July 16, 1906) ; Signor and Signora Gino Carugati, August 9, 1912 (sn descent). The guide Chiara told the writer of four further ascents of the E. aréte of the Signalkuppe in all of which he was the leader: Signor and Signorina Bruno and Mary Daviso (1923) ; Signora Mariannina

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8 20 The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. on the rocks below, because of the fresh snow, the heavy loads and relatively late hour urged a strategic retreat in the direction of the new refuge. So we followed the Signalgrat on easy rocks a little below the ridge, on the §S. side, to avoid the soft snow. In about 1 hour we came upon the hut. To our great surprise it appeared almost complete and the men were putting on the tin roof! The rest of the day was spent helping the men at work, sleeping, catching glimpses of our mountain through breaks in the clouds, and, later in the day, on a lonely jaunt to the nearby Punta Tre Amici. Just before sunset it seemed to clear. The guide Chiara, of Alagna, who was directing the crew in charge of the building of the new hut, showed us the route which he had followed up the E. ridge in his climbs— substantially that of Topham and of the climbers who have followed him up that ridge. He pointed out to us a snowy triangle midway up the ‘ Great Gendarme,’ which represented the key to the ascent. From the refuge the 8. slope of the Signalgrat appears to fall almost perpendicularly on to the southern portion of the Loccie Glacier, upon which we espied a group of porters carrying up material for the refuge. The packs indeed looked very monu- mental, and the porters a great deal like ants carrying home the winter supply. Chiara’s telescope told us that they were mattresses! Their progress appeared to us ridiculously slow, but they arrived. And so, unofficially, we opened that day a refuge that will go a long way toward rendering the KE. ridge of the Signalkuppe far more popular than it has been in the past.‘ Levi (1924); Signori Giovanni and Carlo Mor (no date given) ; Signori Roux and Tovini (no date). All these parties followed the route described by Topham, indicated to us by the guide Chiara. On August 29, 1927, a party led by Dr. Mario Borelli and by the guide Chiara made the ascent of the E. aréte, spending the night in the newly-opened Capanna Resegotti. Dr. Borelli was kind enough to furnish me with detailed information and with a tracing of the route followed in their expedition. It is, as far as I know, the same asthatfollowed by Topham. On August 31,1927, another ascent of the ridge was accomplished by Signor Fasana with the guide Chiara. * The Refuge Resegotti has been built by the family Resegotti of Turin as a memorial to their daughter Luigina, killed by an avalanche during the winter of 1926-7, while on a ski-ing excursion. The hut is situated about 75 ft. below the Signalgrat, on the S. slopes, half an hour from the Signaljoch, not far from the Punta Tre Amici. Its height above sea-level is about 12,100 ft. Itis built entirely of wood, covered with galvanized iron and is solidly anchored to the rocks. It

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The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. 821 The morning of August 12 came beautifully clear. Shivering, we came out in the cold stillness at 4.10 a.m. This time we selected the snowy ridge: the hard frozen snow was excellent. Furthermore we had left all excess baggage in the hut; con- sequently, in half an hour we were at the Signaljoch. There our Ridge rose in its full beauty; still powdered with fresh snow, broken by huge black cliffs, looking impressively per- pendicular from below, and adorned with huge icicles glittering under the touch of the sun. The place is one of impressive grandeur: to the left, our way of the previous day, down the tormented Vigne Glacier; to the right, a confusion of séracs that shatter the Monte Rosa Glacier. Above to the right, eyes and mind rose with the immense EK. wall of Monte Rosa, shining as a huge silken drapery, hung from the mighty shoulder of the Nord End, and flowing down with a glitter of silver to partly over-hanging rocky ribs. It was not long before the echoes of falling stones were awakened ; both the E. face of the Nord End and the N.E. face of the Signalkuppe were raked all day by falling stones—from 6 a.m. onwards almost incessantly. Our E. ridge was waiting: we studied our route and were off. The climb can conveniently be divided in three portions : the first one from the Signaljoch to a little gendarme, just above the second of two easily identified white rock bands that cross the ridge; the second portion reaches the top of the so- called ‘Great Gendarme’; the third, the least steep of the three, and of which we could see but a small portion, leads to the Regina Margherita hut; it is interrupted by three low rocky pinnacles. We climbed rapidly over the first part of the ridge, offering solid rocks, good holds and plenty of them. After crossing the next white band we were slowed up by the first difficulty : the ridge rose perpendicularly to form a small gendarme, which we turned on the Alagna side, following a series of small ledges. To regain the ridge above the pinnacle we forced our way up a chimney, about 50 ft. high, covered with ice in the lower portion and absolutely perpendicular above. The ice was too thin to rests partly upon the rocks, and partly on a wall. It is furnished with four benches with mattresses and blankets sufficient for eight persons. There is also a stove and kitchen equipment. The refuge has been handed over to the custody of the Piedmontese section of the C.A.A.I., and can be reached from Alagna in approximately 7 hours. It was officially inaugurated on August 28, 1927.

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$22 The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. cut steps and too thick to be cleaned off. But the first difficulties of a climb are usually met cheerfully. One looks for them, rushes at them, enjoys the struggle of the body slowly dragged along the ice, from step to step ; one is exalted by the squirming along a perpendicular chimney, when all the body feels the rude embrace of solid rock. Just as our hands were becoming insensible, we climbed out of the gloomy chimney on to the sunny ridge, where it forms a little snow saddle. Above us the aréte rose in a pyramid of black rock, falling to the left in a sheer precipice and breaking to the right into a series of steep snow-covered slabs. It was 6 a.M. and we had reached the foot of the ‘ Great Gendarme.’ In front, towards the Macugnaga slope, was the inviting couloir against which Topham warns us. It was our desire, however, to follow the ridge as closely as possible. The first few steps took us over slabs of good rock covered with verglas, a little on the Macugnaga side. From the right came the muffled rumble of the first avalanche, down the fearful Canalone Marinelli. We instinctively kept to the left, and, with a short hard climb over extremely steep rocks, regained the ridge. The sky was clear; it was early. We were still enjoying a blissful oblivion of time and coming difficulties. A little above, the ridge seems to flatten into a narrow face, seamed with fissures and rising in unbroken prisms of rock, shining with ice. We picked our way from ledge to ledge, greatly handicapped by snow and ice covering the few holds. The steepness of this portion of the climb compelled us to send up the sacks by the rope, thus robbing us of a good bit of time. The long waiting on icy rocks soon numbed the hands and our position did not appear the most inviting. We kept always a few feet from the ridge, on the Macugnaga side, and several times were tempted to descend below over a series of steep snow slopes, over which lay the route followed by our predecessors. We finally reached a plaque of ice, perhaps 100 ft. in height, broken by outcrops of unstable rock. It rounded up in its middle, Carrel soon disappearing over it out of sight. The place was very exposed. Above, Carrel started a sonorous rain of ice fragments as he cleared a way to the rocks. Right above our heads huge icicles were glittering and ominously crackling. We had dubiously turned to them several times, but at the time we were so intensely absorbed,by the climb that we paid little attention to them. Once in a while a small one would tumble down from rock to rock with a silvery, gay crackling. Solidly anchored to the rock I was paying out the rope to Carrel; the handle of

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Photo, M. Strumia. The first step of the “‘ GREAT GENDARME.”

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Perc | 4 Wy ” ase. F ml : ‘ ee ~ ig Se tik a i. 4 ) OR Leki pe em (NS Stade eke : IN Ameena a +. eee ae * i 2» | Photo. M, Strumia. The Eastern face of Monte Rosa from the SIGNALJOCH.

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The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. 328 my ice axe was stuck through the ice into a rock crevice and around it I had fixed my end of the rope, with several turns, about a couple of feet away from my body. Suddenly, with a short, harsh crash, a huge icicle detached itself, perhaps 100 ft. above. It came down upon me, but there was no way for me to avoid it, because of my precarious situation at the time, and because a slight jar would have brought Carrel down from his aerial perch. I ducked my head as well as I could under a projecting rock. The ice mass bounced down, missing Carrel, who had kept somewhat to the right, and broke into fragments a few feet above me, one of them hitting me on the back of the head. I believe I lost consciousness for a few seconds only ; my forehead lying against the ice helping my head to clear rapidly. When I came to, I had a sensation of pain around my chest, and I vaguely heard Carrel asking what I was doing with the rope. I was now hanging from the short end of my rope, only a couple of feet from the ice axe; but I was 80 dazed that it took me several minutes to regain my footing on a small ledge. We proceeded slowly over the plaque and shortly arrived at the snow triangle which Chiara had pointed out from the refuge. We turned to the right and got up to a ledge, well protected above by overhanging rocks, where we felt that we should take a much needed rest (8 A.M.). We had tea and watched the fog slowly mounting from below ; it first covered the Punta Grober (Monte delle Loccie), then we lost sight of the refuge; later, mounting from both sides, it engulfed the Signaljoch, and finally it came to us. But we had already decided what our itinerary should be; the route followed by Topham and by the other climbers who had pre- ceded us on this aréte led, from the neighbourhood of where we were standing, down over a series of ledges on the Alagna side, descending somewhat, until a point was reached from where the Regina Margherita hut could be seen. From there over 4 series of steep, rocky slabs, covered with snow, one could regain the aréte well above the top of our ‘ Great Gendarme.’ The last portion of the ‘Great Gendarme ’ appeared to us as crowned by huge icicles and to be formidably steep ; but having my head sufficiently cleared from the unpleasant previous surprise, we decided that we would attempt to surmount the * Gendarme ’ direct, following the ill-defined ridge. The last battle was starting. I looked at Carrel: the smile was gone from his face. I, too, felt in the pounding of the heart the desire of fight, that the rising fog made almost tragic.

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824 The Eastern Aréte of the Signalkuppe. But I had lost the desire to look around to enjoy whatever beauty of forms might appear through the clouds. Later, when going over the notes on this part of the climb, there came to my mind the words of Ugo de Amicis: ‘ The too- dificult climbing is nothing but a primitive fight of man against nature; through preoccupation of danger, desire of reaching the summit, want of time, physical prostration, it (the too-difficult climb) excludes almost totally artistic enjoyment and meditation.’ 5 I have often meditated upon these words and the episode that brought them to my mind. We left our ledge at 9 a.m., and, turning the overhanging rocks to the left, started up the final 450 ft. of the ‘ Great Gendarme.’ During the next 2 hours we made progress inch by inch, with the hardest climbing I have ever experienced. The ridge appeared to be formed of huge prisms and pyramids, nearly perpendicular, extremely smooth, and holds could be obtained only by reaching with the fingers into fissures formed by the union of two faces. The feet madly rasped the hard rock, usually with little effect. This portion of the climb was remarkably free from snow® and only on one or two short passages did we find any ice. It would have been otherwise impossible to negotiate the final step of perhaps 100 ft., incredibly aerial and steep. At 11 a.m. we reached the top of the ‘ Great Gendarme.’ There suddenly the aréte turned into an easy, flat, snowy ridge. We had won. We rapidly followed it to another low rocky pyramid, the last few feet of which we turned to the nght. We felt that we must be near the top, but we could not see it, the fog being very dense. Another little gendarme followed, which did not offer difficulty, then a deep notch in the ridge. We descended the steep ridge, whereupon we found two wooden stanchions solidly fixed to the rocks. In front of us was another little knob, and beyond, in the thick mist, we finally saw the outline of the roof of the Regina Margherita hut. Voices answered our Jodels. In a few minutes we were doing the last bit of acrobatic work climbing over the roof of the hut to reach the entrance on the other side, and, at twelve o’clock, we entered the warm hospitable hut, just as snow was beginning to fall.é Next day, in a final orgy of speed, we crossed successively 5 Adolfo Hess: Psicologia dell’ Alpinista, Torino—1914, p. 204. 6 Time of ascent: 7 hours 50 minutes from the Resegotti Hut, including halts, or 6 hours 50 minutes actual climbing time.

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A Flight over the Pyrenees. 825 Parrotspitze, Ludwigshéhe, Schwarzhorn, Balmenhorn and Vincent Pyramide. We had left the Regina Margherita hut at 4.40 and we entered Gressoney-la-Trinité at 10.40 a.M., including 15 minutes halt at the Rifugio Gnifetti. Bibluography. ‘A.J.’ 18, 414; Boll. XXVI, pp. 69-73; ‘R.M.’ 1887, p. 368; 1891, p- 300; 1906, pp. 350-54 ; 1915, pp. 111-12. Diibi, Guide des Alpes Valatsannes, Vol. III (1919), pp. 89-93. A FLIGHT OVER THE PYRENEBS. By W. M. CONWAY. d iiss is perhaps nothing more tedious than flight over ordinary and rather flat cultivated country. If it were not for the variety introduced by the Channel no one would fly from London to Paris more than once for fun. Sucha flight saves time and has practical value, but that 1s all there 1s to be said for it. From an aeroplane looking down upon the earth (say) 5000 ft. below, it resembles a coloured map. What you lack is foreground. Nine-tenths, or even more, of the interest of scenery, and most of its beauty, reside in the foreground and the middle distance. There is, however, one effect beheld from aloft which can be so vividly realized nowhere else. It is the ubiquity of the handiwork of man. The higher you mise and the larger the area of land you behold, so much the more power- fully does this fact impress itself upon you. The late Sir Walter Raleigh wrote a remarkable paper upon the Human Bacillus, in which he treated the earth as a vast living creature and Man asa kind of skin disease upon it. The Earth complains about how the horrible microbe, which is man, scarifies all his skin and burrows beneath it. From the sky this activity of man is wonderfully beheld. You see how almost every yard of ground bears the trace of human activity, shaping it to man’s will over vast areas only thus to be beheld on a big scale. To fly along the margin of the sea and over mountains, lakes, and valleys is interesting and indeed delightful in a way very different from flight over ordinary cultivated land. When, therefore, the opportunity came to me the other day to fly 400 miles over the N. of Spain and up to the watershed of the Pyrenees, and that in the newest and most up-to-date

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326 A Flight over the Pyrenees. monoplane piloted by a famous aviator, it will be readily understood that I jumped at the chance. I had been lunching on a shady terrace in a hilly park over- looking Barcelona which is to form part of the grounds of the Exhibition which that go-ahead city was vigorously pre- paring for the next year. It was a glorious day, still air, clear sky, and all else in mere externals that the heart could desire. I could have sat on in entire satisfaction all the after- noon contemplating the view of the sun-lit city spread out below, but the unexpected invitation came, and in a few minutes a car was carrying us off to the aerodrome, which is one of the ports in the flight from Paris to North Africa. When the plane ceased its jolty taxying along the ground and took to the air the pleasure began. The sensation is one of floating, just as though one were held up by water, and one’s sense of security 1s very great. I suppose we rose quickly, but it did not so seem, and, though we covered some four hundred miles in two hours and a half, I received no impression of swift move- ment. Indeed, relatively to the ground, we seemed to advance very slowly. Inland from Barcelona there rises a strange blade-like and precipitous ridge of shattered rocks called Mont Serrat. They attain a height of 4070 ft. There is an ancient monastery hitched in among them, and to visit that is a long and favourite day’s excursion from the city. We were looking down upon the top of this ridge in what seemed like a few minutes after starting. We must already have been 6000 ft. in the air and were still rising. The world beneath us resembled one of those coloured relief maps which are sometimes seen in geographical or geological museums. Trees looked like little vegetables. Rounded wooded hills seemed covered in green velvet. The undulating surface of the ground did not seem flat, asit is generally described, but lucidly modelled by sunshine and shadow. The most obvious features were roads, railways, and rivers, but only those that one could look along. Those one looked across almost or quite disappeared. The glinting of the brilliant solar reflections off water was very notable. They were caused by our own swift movement. Spots on water flashed and vanished as we went by. There are many terraced hillsides hereabouts. They resembled a piece of contour map. We passed almost over a train. It looked absurdly small and seemed to be moving very slowly. It is not easy to realize the vast scale of the view from 10,000 ft. Houses had become much too small to seem like toys ; they looked like rather large grains of sand. Human beings and even carts on a

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A Flight over the Pyrenees. 827 road were too small to be visible to the naked eye. We ought to have seen the Balearic Islands as we rose, but a slight haze obscured the far horizon. Clouds rising beyond and out of it looked like a splendid range of snowy mountains. The stillness of every visible thing was wonderful. In the whole visible region only two smoke-clouds rose from factories. They were black enough. The absence of smoke is due to the fact that the whole of this region is supplied with electrical power derived from a river that descends from the Pyrenees. Our flight followed the course of this stream back into the mountains. Now and again our plane rocked a little as a boat would rock on an almost calm sea. I should have said that no one could have been ill were it not that one of my companions suffered terribly from the first moment to the last. No one, I think, could have been giddy. I looked over the side very carefully and tried to discover how this came to be, for though I am never giddy on mountain cliffs I should feel very uncomfortable on the outside of a sky-scraper’s scaffolding. The reason, I think, 1s because there is no foreground whatever. Moreover, isanyone giddy when he sits in a chair and sticks his head out of a window however high planted his flat may be ? Those who are familiar with views from high mountains will recelve no new impression as far as the distance is concerned from a high-flying aeroplane. The view, for instance, from the top of Monte Rosa looking over Italy only differs from a flying view in the matter of foreground. I held a book horizontally under my nose; the view that remained was just such as I have seen hundreds of times from peaks. The book replaced the foreground of glacier and aréte. All else was familiar. We had now left the farmed lands behind and were come into a rough region of broken ground, on which no forced land- ing would be possible. For miles and miles there was not an acre of level ground. An aeroplane that had to descend here must inevitably be smashed. Little, however, cared we ; first, because we had perfect confidence both in our machine and in our pilot, and secondly, because alone up in these great heights it seems as though one were beyond the misfortunes of the world. That might suffer earthquakes, storms, and accidents, but we seemed to be outside of all such possibilities in a little independent world of our own. As we passed over the foothills of the Pyrenees, the shapes of the hills became more emphatic and the lowering sun casting longer shadows threw them up in bold relief. Here the lime- stone cliffs make their first appearance, cresting the top of ridges. It is wonderful to look down upon them as we fly over

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828 A Flight over the Pyrenees. from valley to valley. The shadows mould themselves delicately ’ upon rounded ridges, but are cut sharp as land and water where the cliffs divide them. The villages upon the hill-tops are incredibly tiny. I can only compare them to warts on a wrinkled hand. The houses are packed so closely together that the lanes between them are but fine lines to our eyes. And now comes the first of the artificial lakes made to supply a great head of water for the generation of Barcelona’s power. It is some twenty miles long, if I rightly remember, and in places very narrow. The sun reflects straight off its surface into our eyes for a moment and then it is gone and the water is blue. We look down upon a river stained red by some iron- bearing rock. A second artificial lake follows. We are passing over Tramp and looking down vertically on its mighty dam which from here appears a very small affair. And now we are coming toward the higher mountains, the tops of some of which are still higher than we are. We circle round to rise over them. This part of our flight is intensely interesting, especially to a mountain-climber. For the first time in my life I actually pass over the summit of a peak and close enough to it to behold its broken rocks and all details quite clearly. There are the ridges that lead to it. I can see where they narrow to a rock scramble, where they break into teeth and so forth. Moreover, now that we are actually among the mountains we have a mountain foreground and the view becomes altogether familiar in type. I could have flown about here for hours with delight. We were just above the Capdella Lakes which form the highest head of water for the Barcelona electricity production. We look down on the top of the familiar railway by which a few days earlier we had ascended to visit these very lakes. The wildness of the Pyrenean fastnesses was very apparent to our comprehensive view. We were near enough to the peaks to see the detail of their rocks and screes and yet high enough to overlook all the ridges and see the ranges one beyond another stretching away to where they droop toward the lowlands. We were above Andorra and level with Maladetta, though unfortunately there was no one to tell me the names of particular mountains. All I knew was that all were there. But the sun is lowering and we must hasten to a landing before night comes on. Away we go, therefore, toward the east, the plains, and the margin of the sea. It gave me quite a thrill to pass close beside a httle cloud—the only one any- where in sight. It was such a little thing all by itself. We came downhill very gradually ; indeed I did not notice the

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5 hte) Z ? - 7 Photo. W. F. Donkin, face of the EIGER. N,

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The Descent of the N. Face of the Eiger. 829 descent at all till I saw a tiny black spot on a white road and knew it was a man. Presently there was a cart and horses to be seen and then the houses began to be large enough to look like toys. They looked as one of those model Swiss chalets looks when you hold it in your hand, but by the time they do that one is getting pretty low down. The sun set just now most gloriously, blazing over a purple world and then quickly foundering ; its own motion of descent and ours added together put it quickly out of sight. There are mists wreathing Mont- serrat and gathering upon the ground in islands. It behoves us to land quickly, but our pilot has foreseen all that. The aerodrome is only a mile or two away. He shuts off the engine and now we glide with indescribable smoothness, I suppose descending with great rapidity ; but we feel nothing of that ; we hardly seem to be moving at all. And now we are close to the ground. It looks as though one might step out and drop on to it without hurting oneself. We pass over a road, and a moment later we are running unevenly on our wheels upon the ground. The bumping lasts a very short time. Our flight is over. There are the cars awaiting us. It is lighting-up time and night has come on long before we are back in the streets of Barcelona. THe DeEscENT OF THE N. FacrE oF THE KIGER. By CLAUDE A. MACDONALD. HAVE been asked by the Editor to put on record a few | belated notes on my descent of the Higer in August 1894: it really was the outcome of a failure to conquer the N.E. Mittellegi aréte, a proposition which Christian Jossi and I had long examined critically and longingly. July 1890 first saw Jossi and myself on the aréte, with Ulrich Kauffmann. There had been much fresh snow, and an hour and a half’s work convinced us that in those conditions the aréte was quite impossible. On August 8, 1894, Christian and I, with Peter Bernet, having slept at the Bergli, were again on the aréte at 06.80, the conditions being good. The N.E. aréte, which, owing to foreshortening, looks harmless enough from Grindelwald, is an enormously lengthy affair, broken up by endless pinnacles which are all on the ridge itself. This is a real knife-edge falling away at a very high angle on the Grindelwald side, and

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880 The Descent of the N. Face of the Evger. to all intents and purposes perpendicular on the Kalli slope. Consequently all pinnacles and gendarmes have to be climbed up and down—hardly one of them is capable of being turned. The first gendarme, I remember, took us quite half an hour to surmount, and the third one over an hour. Progress was very slow, and at 18.00 we sat down and considered our position. We seemed to be about half way, and what was ahead of us looked, if anything, worse than what we had accomplished. The final cliff not only overhung, but seemed to have a diagonal cant outwards as well—altogether not a place to sleep out— and I gave the word for retreat. Jossi, I remember, said at the time that next time we attempted it, if I would let him carry up a bag of iron pitons, we could easily surmount the final cliff ; but I laughed and deprecated all such artificial aids... When the ascent was finally accomplished by a Japanese gentleman,” about six years ago, Jossi’s suggestion was adopted, and was the chief reason of the success of the expedition. The question now was how to go back. The way we had come was long, hard, and dangerous, and it did not seem interesting to do it all over again, so we determined to strike straight down the face till we joined the ‘ Mittellegi’ route. At the spot where we left the aréte two long rock-ribs run out: one, in a westerly direction and almost horizontal, loses itself in the snow-face ; the other runs straight down, and this latter one we took. It lies at a great angle, so that we had to move very slowly and carefully ; but the rocks were good, and after about an hour we got on to the snow-face. This proved to be absolutely solid ice, and we took one hour and a half cutting big steps diagonally across, till we got on to rock again, when we worked down, rather in the reverse direction, towards the hanging glacier above Alpiglen. We reached the snow above that point by 18.00 and glissaded down. On arrival at Grindelwald we found that every glass in the village had been on us all day, and that while we were enjoying ourselves, grave doubts were being expressed by experienced people as to whether we should ever get down alive.? I was twice on the aréte again to attempt the ascent, but weather was always against us. 1 And most mountaineers will agree cordially.—Editor. 2 September 10, 1921. Mr. Yuko Maki with Fntz Amatter, Fritz Steuri, and Samuel Brawand. A.J. 34, 166-7. 8 I have a vivid recollection of the conversations round the numerous telescopes !—E. L. S.

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‘SSP DISMA 947 eA0qe VMAOULS[OW *HYQuUIMIOT “Acy "OVO",

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The S.E. Face of the Mojstrovka. 831 Tue S.E. Fact or tHE MoJstrovKa. By Mrs. COPELAND. ‘iG was some time last winter that Joze Cop (pronounced Yozie Chop) of Jesenice greatly surprised and delighted me with the suggestion that he would take me for a climb during the coming summer. Joge Cop is the acknowledged climber’s guide in these parts, and, if he is not certificated, it is because there is no one and no body here qualified to certificate him. He is, de facto, the one and only more or less professional guide available in an Alpine district where native mountaineer- ing is practically a post-war growth and mountain-lovers requiring guidance are dependent upon the assistance of amateur cragsmen. So I very cordially thanked JoZe for his kind thought, and reflected that even if he remembered about his promise he would be too busy to carry it out. An exceptionally fine summer (1927) brought a successful climbing season. Week by week mountaineers from all over the country pass through Jesenice Junction to go to the hills, and the good folk of Jesenice turn out to meet the train. There are always friends on board. There JoZe Cop waylaid me one Saturday afternoon and informed me that he would like to take me up the S.E. face of Mojstrovka, near Kranjska Gora. It was rather a special sort of climb—short—only about four hours—but full of interest. It was practically his own discovery and so far had been done by one party only—himself with Dr. Stanko Tomingek and a mutual friend called Pirnat. And they had only done the main face. Above that, there were the ridge and the summit. If we were to complete the climb up to the top, it. would be, within these modest limits, a first ascent. And in any case I should be the first woman to climb that face. The Mojstrovka (Moistroka, * Master Fell’) is the pendant to the Prisojnik (which ought to be called Mount Cyclops because of its eye), but some 300 m. lower, and, between them, they guard the Vr8ié (Vrshich) Pass. Towards the §. the mountain slopes evenly and gently to the Italian side. Towards Jugo- Slavia it appears like a great semi-circular fortress wall crowned by a special bastion rising to a height of 2882 m. In one or two

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882 The S.E. Face of the Mojstrovka. places that wall has been climbed, but the N. face was virgin and the S.E. not fully conquered. A few days after meeting Jo%e I got his message to come up for theclimb. OnaSaturday afternoon I set out from Ljubljana (Laibach) to Kranjska Gora. From there my way lay up the derelict military road to Vraid Pass as far as the Erjavec House, where JoZe would join me later on. We could do the climb next day. Full of glad anticipation I strode upwards. The evening was Pia _ = 5 =~ Photo, Dr. Tominések.) Rovres or Cop anp OTHERS, UP N.E. anp S.E. Faces. glorious with golden promise for the morrow. Before me rose the forest and the grey bulk of the Mojstrovka above it. To the left the N. face of the Prisojnik shut in the valley as with a wall. Behind me, the beautiful massif of the Skrlatica and the lone peaks of the Martuljek showed aloft above their draperies of forest and scree, accessible only to mountaineers. I turned and beheld their serried range all crimson flame against the profound blue of the southern sky. Beautiful, lovely. But when the mountains revel in fantastic glories at night, they usually lie abed among the clouds next morning— uncommonly like human beings ! During the night the wind veered round and the morning was all I had feared. Everything above 6000 ft. was wrapped

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The S.E. Face of the Mojstrovka. 838 in mist. A short break in the all-surrounding cloud-bank tempted JoZe to make a sortie from the hut and we got as far as the foot of the wall. But by now there was a thunderstorm brewing on the Italian side and no point at all in going on. Nothing for it but go back ‘ and gather a posy,’ said JoZe. And weturned. It wasanice posy. I think there is no wild rhododendron more beautiful than that on Vriié Pass. A bare week later we made a second start. Again the pre- ceding evening was fine, but the light upon the peaks less ominously red. In the hut there presently arrived a second party: JoZe’s brother, Sr. Stanko Tomingek, Danilo Martelanc —better known as Christopher of the ‘ Skala,’ a young giant of at least 6ft. 6 in——and Miss Pavla Jesih, one of the best of the Slovene girl climbers. They were going to try the N. face of the Mojstrovka to-morrow. Our party consisted of JoZe Cop, a lad called Miha Potoénik (Potochnik), and myself. Until late at night we worried and wagered about the weather. At last a heavy fall of dew reassured me somewhat and I went to sleep. Next day (August 7, 1927) was not perfect, but not too bad. During breakfast and on the short way up to the rock Joze explained the beauties of the climb to me. As it was short, he would let me do all my own work. I would be roped, of course, but not helped more than was absolutely necessary. There were chimneys, ledges, and overhangs to negotiate, and none of the tiresome scree which takes the edge off one’s enthusiasm on too many of our peaks. By a convenient ledge you gain access to a smooth and narrow chimney. The rock is exceptionally sound and rough, almost like granite. JoZe wriggled his way up, got himself anchored, and called to me to follow. I imitated him and found the job easier than I had expected. ‘ Ever climbed such rock before ? ’ Something like the pride of ownership rang in Joge’s voice. A vision rose before me, momentarily clear, as in a flash of lightning : a small boy and girl swarming up a hard black crag on the KE. coast of Scotland. They were very much afraid of a scolding for being late for lunch, but not in the least afraid of falling down the cliff. And over the edge of the top white faces stared at them in stupid horror. ‘ Never,’ I answered JozZe, ‘ never, since I was ten.’ He laughed. The climb is, in fact, just one very long chimney up the cliff face, with one decided break, a ledge with a kind of promontory. Within the chimney there are one or two overhangs. Were VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. Z

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334 The S.E. Face of the Mojstrovka. the rock brittle, these places would be rather critical. As it 1s, the slightest projection serves as a reliable hold. Quite unlike the Jalovec, most beautiful and most treacherous of our peaks, where the easiest ascent is complicated by the incalculable rottenness of the rock and I have seen boulders as big as 4 man lurch and roll down at a touch. ** promon- tory se Photo, Dr. Tominégek.] S.E. Face oF MoJstrovKa (SHOWING Gor’s ROUTE). On the ledge which interrupts the chimney we stopped for a breather. The two men climbed a kind of natural outlook tower, and JoZe pointed out the various blind alleys they had originally followed from here. Most enticing was a wide ledge slanting upwards against a cliff like a well-pointed piece of masonry. That ledge ended in a sheer drop. We settled ourselves comfortably on the promontory and shouted across to the other party which had started a little before us; finally

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The S.E. Face of the Mojstrovka. 885 we heard faint calls in reply. Then we sang the beautiful Carinthian irredentist song at the pitch of our voices : ‘Tell me, where are the path-ways that were wont here to pass ?’ They are choked with the wild thorn and the tall-growing grass. -*T will hew down the wild thorn, I will mow the tall grass, And restore the fair path-ways that were wont here to pass.’ That made us feel better, and we continued our climb. The only way upward looked indeed the least promising—a very narrow crack, obstructed by a big smooth boulder; this step Jo%e negotiated facing outwards. I climbed it partly as he had done, and partly by the rope, and, apparently, did better than was expected of me. Clouds came and went; for some moments the sky looked ugly, but always there came a welcome rift above our route. “God doesn’t forsake a Carniolian,’ murmured Joze, a bit in Jest and a good deal in earnest ; and then, still more in earnest and in a very low voice. * Worse luck, a Carniolian more oftentimes forsakes the Lord = All too soon the chimney sloped and degenerated into an uneven, rubble-cumbered trough—sure signs that we were nearing the top—and then we stepped out on to the ridge. Here the climb proper ends, and the last party returned. It was our next phase. The sky was clear for a bit, and we were able to see—and admire—the fortress whose outer wall we had climbed. Some of our peaks are practically upright boulders on an immense scale. Some are orderly, well-rounded mountains on one side but an untidy chaos of rocky precipices on the other, like the pieces of unused scenery stacked behind the stage curtain. The Mojstrovka surges up from the S. like & vast wave, and its ridge is a crest of petrified foam. There is no climbing there. A pleasant scramble brought us to the foot of the summit rising above us like a squat tower seamed with chimneys. To my inexperienced eye it looked as if there might still be difficulties; but JozZe promised a walk-over. Oddly enough, he encountered his only snag up there. He was rounding a bit of an overhang when his hold came to pieces in his hand like your best china bowl in that of the new house- maid. Of course he recovered his balance at once, but the incident provided him with a text for a sermon on unremitting vigilance while climbing.

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386 The S.E. Face of the Mojstrovka. A little later we reached the top. From here you see the mountain more like a house ina row. Next to the Mojstrovka and perceptibly higher, is the Travnik, with an apparently unscalable face.. But Jo%e assured me that it was not so bad as it looked. Asa matter of fact, it was climbed this summer by Messrs. Prevec and Hudnik, two good men among our younger climbers. Beyond the Travnik stretches the Travnik Wall, easily crossed by an artificial rocky path; and beyond that, closing the row, towers the Jalovec, shaped like an immense sugar-candy crystal. It was chilly up here, in spite of the shelter afforded by the Travnik. We squatted in a hollow and ate each other’s pro- visions. (Why is the other fellow’s food always more attractive than one’s own ?) The clouds now rolled up in earnest, and we decided to take the return road along the path through Italy. You follow the crest or battlement until you come to a natural nick in it. Through that, you find yourself on a scree which sweeps down almost to the high road. Beside the nick, like a turret beside a passage, rises a little outcrop of rock and grass plots—a fairy feeding-ground for chamois. I told my com- panions that I had last year found plenty of ‘ mountain ladies ’ (planike = edelweiss) up there, and after a short expedition they brought back bunches of them and of nigretelle, the little black orchids that smell like chocolate. Then we dropped through the chink on to the big southern scree and were soon back among the dwarf pines. In view of reports of frontier unpleasantness, I wish to place on record that our party met with great consideration and courtesy at the hands of the Italian guards. So much so, that the slow and stolid Mace- donian on our side was in two minds about letting us back. He was most in doubt about Miha P., and I had visions of the poor lad hovering for an indefinite time, a political Tomlinson, in the tiny strip of no man’s land between the barbed wire tangle and the Italian cement pillar. When this martinet could no longer dispute the validity of my passport, he eased his feelings by grumbling ‘Old.’ ‘ It’s been renewed all right,’ I pointed out. ‘I didn’t mean the passport, I meant you,’ he said. ‘You’re a brave man,’ I retorted. ‘ Will you say that when we meet again down in the hut?’ A spark of humour gleamed in his eye. ‘No!’ When we did meet later on, he was as full of nice speeches as ever a south countryman can string together. I think they must have a Blarney Stone somewhere in Southern Serbia.

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The S.E. Face of the Mojstrovka. 837 The rolling mists gave us some bad moments of anxiety concerning the other party ; but within an hour or so of our arrival they too turned up, with trousers torn and hearts elate —victorious. Photo, Dr. Tominsck.) MoJstrovKa, N. Facer. I is route of August 7, 1927, t.e. continuous line. II is route of October 28, 1927. III is route of August 26, 1928. ‘ And that was a real ladies’ day for the mountains,’ said Cop. ‘The §.E. wall has been climbed to the top for the first time, with you ; and N. face for the very first time at all, with Pavla ; and the Mojstrovka is a lady herself, so there you are.’

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888 The Mountains of Israel. THe MountAIns OF ISRAEL. By W. T. ELMSLIE. TRICTLY speaking, there are only two: Sinai and Hermon. Both lie beyond the boundaries of the Holy Land. That land itself, though lofty, can hardly be described as moun- tainous. The Mount of Olives stands 4000 ft. above the Jordan Valley, and the ravines on its flanks are occasionally wild and precipitous ; but it is itself only part of the great high backbone of the country. The same applies to the other summits, which rise but little above their immediate surroundings. Sinai and Hermon have been often visited and described, but the visitors have seldom been interested in mountaineering. Some brief notes from this point of view may therefore perhaps be useful. Sinai may most conveniently be reached from Suez. Thence the overland route (by camel, or even nowadays by motor) may be taken to the Convent of St. Catharine, in the heart of the mountains. Or the traveller may go by ship to Tor, on the S.W. coast of the peninsula, and thence by camel. Various permits must be secured, and all supplies must be taken with the party. Our route lay from Tor through the Wadi Isleh and other valleys to the Convent. Thence to Wadi Feiran, the principal oasis of the district. Finally, by Wadi Hebran back to Tor. We were actually travelling during parts of eight days, though on three of them we were on the move only for a few hours. Our expedition took place in early April. At any later time the heat would be too intense for active mountaineering. Omitting the details of the visit, a few outstanding impres- sions may be given. The first is unquestionably the magnifi- cence of the scenery. After a day’s journey across level desert the mountains are suddenly entered, and are traversed by narrow and tortuous tracks through the ravines. There is scant vegetation; there are few springs, and some even of those are brackish ; only here and there do clumps of dwarf date-palms indicate the presence of water. But the mountains themselves are grand almost beyond description. Sheer walls of smooth rock rise high from the deep ravines, carved above into all manner of curious shapes. The prevailing colour is

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RINA. -~ 4 - ALY \ BEL. ! - ~ L. MUSA from slopes of JE od - < “ Photo. R. G. West. JI

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Photo. R. G. West. JEBEL KATERINA from RAS SUFSAFEH.

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The Mountains of Israel. 889 bright red, though seams of brilliant green traverse the rocks here and there for great distances. The effect, as sunrise or sunset reveals every gradation of colour from bniliant crimson to deepest purple, is unsurpassed even in the Alps. But here there is no snow, nothing but granite rocks. In the immediate neighbourhood of the Convent (where, by the way, the monks make their visitors extremely welcome) the mountains are like red Dolomites. Routes have been made to the summits of most of them by the monks in ancient times ; but apart from these routes skilled rock-climbing would clearly be required. Jebel Musa, the sacred mountain itself, is ascended by some 2000 steps ; but its northern end, Ras Sufsafeh, is by no means a simple proposition ; and the traverse of the whole massif would make a magnificent excursion. Jebel Katerina (2602 m. = 8535 ft.), the highest summit in the peninsula, is of different formation, and presents no difficulties. The view from the summit, which in clear weather extends from the Gulf of Suez to the Gulf of Akaba, shows scores of other peaks which cannot but tempt the climber. Amongst them Um Shomer and Jebel Serbal by no means exhaust the chief attractions. It was our intention to traverse Serbal, but time was against us. The map gives quite a wrong impression of the range. Instead of being one long ridge it seems to be a tumbled mass of peaks, which appear different in every view and are extra- ordinarily confusing. The obvious route from the head of Wadi Aleyat, fortunately, leads one to the summit ; though it was not until we actually stood there that we could tell whether we were within a mile of it, so difficult 1s it to be sure of one’s position amongst the maze of peaks at the head of the gully which leads to the top of the lower crags. In the photo- graph in ‘ A.J.’ 28, facing 23 (which shows only one portion of the massif), the gully of ascent is not one of those which appear 80 conspicuously, but runs from the foot of the crags on the left to about the central depression ; the summit being behind and to the left of this point. In Sinai we found snow only in one small patch. When, however, we reached Damascus it was obvious that there would be much snow on Hermon. We had, indeed, been informed that the ascent of that mountain is impossible before the beginning of June, and had supposed that the condition of the snow was the cause of this. We found that our informants were quite wrong, and made the ascent towards the end of April without difficulty.

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840 ' Knots for Climbers. Though higher than Sinai, Hermon ! js far less interesting. In order to avoid frontier troubles, and the carrying of much gear, we made Damascus our headquarters, and one afternoon drove out to Katana. A long, hot climb took us at nightfall to Kala‘at Jendal, where there is no inn. The inhabitants, however, took pity on our plight, gave us blankets on the mud floor of an empty house, and provided us with eggs and ‘ tea.’ The ascent from this point to the summit need not take longer than five or six hours. The maps are unsatisfactory, but once the ridge is struck the way is obvious. The snow was hard in the morning, but in the afternoon had considerably softened ; instead of being able to glissade, we plunged in up to the knees at every step. Although it lay deep in drifts, the rocks were uncovered right up to the top. The descent to Rasheya takes about four hours, and is perfectly straight- forward ; and in the village there is an inn of the most extreme simplicity. We were fortunate in finding a car to take us back to Damascus. Our party consisted of (in Sinai) Messrs. A. St. G. Walsh, R. G. R. West and myself, whilst West and I were on Hermon alone. Knots FoR CirmsBers (IJ). By C. E. I. WRIGHT anp J. E. MAGOWAN. THE LAY AND THE BOWLINE. THe Lay. l’ the current discussion of knots so many references have been made to the lay of the rope and to making knots with the lay that the subject must be treated more fully. It was thought that it might be avoided altogether by giving directions which ensured that knots were made to suit the usual lay. For a rope with the less common lay it would then be left to the reader to suit the lay, either by beginning his knots with the initial loop in the opposite sense, or by making them left-handed, or in the case of the joins by beginning with the left hand behind the nght. To save space the remarks which follow must be taken as 1 For an ascent and illustration of Hermon see A.J. 26, 32-6.

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(oanjzord Jo yo, UO “GQ I4 OHS LAVA UL st Atoyseuour oy [) ‘HVHVY MH JO uretq Woy HAAWSAOAS SVU “ISOM "D “A “000d Digitized by Google

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‘NONYHH LNOOW AO HOCIN-LINAOS HHL a a”

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Knots for Climbers. 841 applying to the usual right-hand rope. If a remark is to hold for a left-hand rope, it must be read with every term of direction replaced by the opposite. A right-hand rope is best defined as a rope with its strands lying in the same sense as the spiral of a corkscrew, or the thread of an ordinary screw. Coil a right-hand rope on the floor. It should be done with the right hand moving round in the direction of the hands of a watch lying face up on the floor. A right-hand rope must be coiled right-handed in this way, or the turns will not lie flat and the rope will kink when drawn out. Take a rope and make a single small turn in the same direction, until the rope crosses itself. It now forms a loop. For the moment the point is that it forms a right-hand loop. Take a round stick in the left hand. Put the end of a cord under the left thumb, and wind the cord round the stick with the right hand. Examine the last turn. It is a right-hand loop, Just as was formed a moment ago.} Examine the coil just made. It is a spiral, and its direction is counterscrew. Make a right-hand loop again. Observe whether it runs counterscrew. A counterscrew loop and a right-hand loop are the same. Take a yard of rope or cord with the usual lay. With an end in each hand twist it so as to increase the lay, that 1s, with left-hand twist. Twist, until it forms a small loop in the middle. Twist a little more and pull the ends. The loop tightens and tends not to flatten out. It is that annoying object, a kink. Note in passing, that the small right-hand loop formed on a right-hand rope by a similar process, but with reverse twist, flattens out readily, and consequently is not a kink. Take a round stick in the left hand and wind a right-hand cord round it to form a coil; but this time wind it backwards 1 Not so, however, if left-hand movements are made with the right hand, as by a friend, who claimed, nevertheless, that he was right-handed. In this paper twist, loop, turn, coil and spiral, 1f made with a natural movement of the right hand, are described as right-hand. It is held that a man ascending a spiral staircase, keeping his right hand towards its axis and turning continually to the right, traces out a right-hand spiral. Any reader is at liberty to say that all these similar counterscrew spirals are left-hand, but he can scarcely claim that his convention is simpler and less perverse.

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842 Knots for Climbers. or, what 1s the same thing, left-handed. Take an end of the cord firmly in each hand to avoid any untwisting ; shake the stick out of the coil and draw out the cord. It forms one or more kinks. Carefully study the kinks formed in both ways. Make sure of the direction of the short spiral formed by the kink. It is screw-wise and therefore left-hand. A kink is a left-hand or screw-wise loop on a right-hand rope. Take a bit of rope with the end in each hand. Twist it left-handed to increase the lay. It forms a kink, and then winds round itself. Continue twisting. The ropes lay them- selves up in counterscrew spirals. Examine the two spirals. On the outer side of each the strands of the two original ropes lie in the direction of the two- ply rope now formed. The ropes have laid themselves up with the lay. If the end of a right-hand rope be laid up round its own part, it must be laid up counterscrew or right-hand and twisted at the same time to increase the lay. Dissect a bit of rope to see how the component yarns are twisted. The yarns are twisted left-hand. They run counter- screw or right-hand in the strand. The strand runs screw-wise in the rope. The rope, as just seen, must run counterscrew, if laid up, or if it is to be tied with the lay. The reader who has checked these points is now in a position to decide for himself any question of lay. Tue Bow.ine. The Bowline can only be made in two ways that are in the least distinct. In this paper it 1s strongly recommended that the knot should be begun with a counterscrew loop, and the recommendation has not been made without rime or reason. The older method, which shall be distinguished as orthodox, is that given in the Report of 1892, in all works on climbing, in all books on knots, even in the Admiralty Manual. Dare the climber attack it, who is not an expert in knots? Yes, if he has a shred of common sense, and will only rely solely on its guidance. Let him remember that the orthodox method is begun with a screw-wise loop. Let him recall the definition of a kink, which he has just appreciated, as a small screw-wise loop on a right-hand rope. Let him ask himself whether it is advisable

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Knots for Climbers. 848 to begin any knot with a kink. In face of the Admiralty Manual let him follow the lead of reason and dare to answer the simple question with a single obvious word. When he has settled the point, he may suspect that there is hardly any difference between beginning a knot with a left- hand loop and making a knot against the lay. After having been thus teased with questions, he may feel annoyed at being now told that his answer is of no consequence, even though it settle the way in which the Bowline ought to be made. The fact is, if the view be accepted that only climbing considerations have any weight, it matters as little to us, how the Bowline is made in orthodox circles, as it did to a primitive savage, what happened to the sabre-tooth tiger when it overtook his mother-in-law. THE CLIMBER’S BOWLINE. For the climber the important point is that the knot lies closer in a certain position, as can be seen in any Bowline, however made. Make one, and take the rope in one hand and the bight of the bowline in the other. Strain and jerk the knot. The end is forced across the knot into a new position. Force it back and the very movement opens the knot a little. Tauten the knot well again, until the end comes back into its proper oblique position across the knot. It now points in the direction round the rope, in which the half-hitch must be made, if it is to help in keeping the knot close and good. It is useless to pass on unless this important property of the Bowline Knot has been fully appreciated. It must not be fancied from a glance at the illustrations that the proposed method of making the Bowline differs from the older only as a knot seen from the back differs frofa the original. The difference is far more than this. It is the difference between a knot and its reflection in a mirror, between left-handed and right-handed, between screw-wise and counter- screw. Moreover, the distinction is important because it is inherent in the construction of the rope. Let us now observe a very eminent authority on mountaineer- ing while he is making his Bowline. He knows that all knots must be tied with the lay, for he has said so in print. He begins with a screw-wise or left-hand loop ; clearly it is the orthodox method he favours. He finishes the simple Bowline. Now watch him add the half-hitch. It will be interesting, very interesting. For he has told us knots must be tied with the

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844 Knots for Clumbers. lay, and he has just shown us seven knots, every one made against the lay. Quite incredible, yet a fact. Clearly, this time too, he will make the half-hitch against the lay. To our amazement he makes it with the lay. You chuckle at his being right only once in eight shots. Marvellous! It 1s marvellous, far more of a marvel than you imagine, for this is the only occasion of the eight when the knot must be made against the lay. Weirdly illogical and inconsistent on our part ? Not so. Made with the lay, the half-hitch tends to keep the knot open. Make the Bowline again by either method and haul on it until the knot is taut and the end thrown obliquely across the knot. The end points in the direction in which it must be passed to make the half-hitch correctly. If the half-hitch is to help the knot to lie neat and close, begin the Bowline screw-wise and make the half-hitch against the lay, or else begin with a counterscrew loop and make the half-hitch with the lay. The latter is preferable, to word it very mildly. It is equiva- lent to beginning with the lay and making the half-hitch with the lay. It is consistent, no small merit. Whether it is orthodox or unorthodox, technically correct or technically the very deuce, matters not a fig. It is better suited to climbing. Suppose for a moment that it is correct to begin the Bowline with a screw-wise loop. Is it, then, correct for a Climber’s Bowline? No. It is quite wrong. The climber’s knot is a Bowline and Half-Hitch and the addition of the latter upsets the apple-cart. The climber has no option. The method is better suited to climbing, because it is easy to work at waist-level, keeps the knot better closed, and is made throughout with the lay. These three reasons are decisive. The point is no longer a matter of opinion or preference. In the Climber’s Method the Bowline is begun with the lay with a counterscrew or right-hand loop and is secured with a half-hitch made right-handed or with the lay. If the end be treated by laying it up backwards along the bight round the waist, the foregoing remarks apply equally. The climber has still no choice of direction: he must work with the lay and he must, therefore, begin with a counterscrew loop. This method, even with the end hanging free, but not too short, is a good way of dealing with the loose end and would probably withstand hours of climbing. If, after several turns round the

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Knots for Climbers. 845 bight, the end be seized or lashed to the bight, there is no better way of making the Bowline secure. The important point is that, as the turns are being made round the bight at the waist, upwards inside the rope, the end must be twisted continually so as to increase the lay. It is the twist in laying it up that keeps the end in place. A yachtsman puts the rule for laying up a rope in a jingle that 1s offensively easy to remember : Twist as you lay, And lay the other way. THE MIDDLE LOOP. It would have been simpler had fewer knots been recom- mended in the earlier part of this paper, but, as its aim was to submit suitable knots for consideration without making a final choice, it was tempting to put forward three knots in each section. The temptation was, of course, strongest in the case of the middle of the rope, just because it has always been the crux, and it led to the Rover Knot being kept in this section. Now the objection to this knot is that it is much stronger in one direction than in the opposite, and that it is better made with its stronger end in the direction of probable strain. Perhaps it would be as well to avoid the difficulty, with its call for mental effort, by confining the choice to knots equally strong in either direction. The Half-Hitch Loop satisfies the condition and has its good points. On the other hand, it was chosen for description, in a moment of weakness, in deference to the widespread approval of the Fisherman’s Noose, solely to give admirers of the latter a similar form, that is easy to make, and yet is modified in such a way as almost to preclude the risk of its becoming a slipknot. Thus there is only one knot left to recommend, but it, at any rate, is equally strong at either end, and in no circumstances can it ever become a slipknot. Yet the Butterfly, as made by the easy method given in the paper on knots, was handi- capped in that, to have it lie in its best form, the rope had to be passed to the other side of the body before the loop was slipped on. It has now been found possible to avoid this nuisance by making the knot by another method, which appears at first to be more complicated than the easy method, but has the great advantage over it that the right hand is not changed from one bight of rope to another.

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846 Knots for Clumbers. The Butterfly (Figure XV). Stretch out the hands in either direction and grasp the rope with the fingers underneath and the thumbs above pointing outwards along the rope. Bring the hands round in front to meet with the thumbs pointing inwards. Bring the right hand in front of the left and lay the bight in it over the left fingers at L (Stage 1). Keep hold of the righthand part of the loop at R and with a movement of the right hand make a small right-hand loop or turn round the left fingers at L, and keep it open with the left fingers (Stage 2). Pass R up over the small loop and through L from behind. When it is just through, take it with the right hand and give it a half-twist screw-wise and draw the knot thus made fairly taut (Stage 3). The half-twist crosses the base of the loop in the knot, and makes it easier to pull the rest through after R, until it is nearly taut. Then strain the ropes, and the knot takes its proper form as seen from the outside, but upside down (Stage 4). The inner side of the knot will come to the front as the bight is drawn up (Stage 5). It will be seen that the effect of this method is to reverse the ropes and, when they are finally strained, to reverse the knot. This is why the ropes cross each other behind the hanging bight (Stages 1, 2, 8) with the result that the method appears complicated in a figure. Actually the manipulation, which takes less than 6 seconds in all, is extremely simple in practice, since the right hand deals with the same bight of rope throughout. Made in this way the knot can be put on directly, and then lies against the waist in its best and flattest form. When this method is adopted and the loop put on directly, the knot should be worked with the leader to the right, if the knot is to lie at the left side. If, however, the rope is required at the right, the knot should be made with the lefthand rope running to the leader. _ An effort to do with the Butterfly what had been done with the Bowline and force it to take several turns of rope met with some success after countless failures. Though not so simple as the Bowline and Coil, the method is not complicated and is well worthy of a trial. By beginning with a single Butterfly and forming the three stages shown in the figure it should be easy to make the triple loop in the hands. This method makes no great demands on the climber’s time and patience. The drawback is the time it will take him to put on the coil and adjust it by passing the spare round it and through the knot. It is better and simpler in practice to effect the doubling round the waist, when the whole operation can be finished ™

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XV. Butterfly. XVI. Tnple Butterfly. . live-fold Butterfly.

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Knots for Climbers. 347 72 seconds. It may be noticed in the figure that the operator, standing near O and facing the knot, might make the turns by swinging the bight, V, alternately backwards and forwards over his head, not unlike a skipping-rope and, as it turns out, with exactly the same movement of the hands. The method may be used to triple any loop round the waist. The Triple Butterfly (Figure XVI). Make a single Butterfly with a very large bight. Raise the bight and the knot will come up with its inner side (as in Figure XV, Stage 5) against the waist. A. Take the sides of the bight with each hand and swing it back- wards over the head (Stage 1). Pass the parts of the bight on round the waist simultaneously, changing hands on them as they meet and cross at the back and bringing them forward again to the sides. Then swing the bight forwards over the head (Stage 2). Pass the bight from the inner side through the space, 8, in the knot. In drawing it through give it a half-twist screw-wise to cross its parts in the knot. Draw the bight, V, out, leaving two turns round the waist. Repeat the operation A with the new bight if a five-fold loop is desired. B. To finish off, however often A has been repeated, swing the bight, V, backwards over the head to form the last turn (Stage 3). See that the turns run continuously round the waist. Tighten them by passing the spare round them and through the knot. Reverse this to ease the loop and take it off. The triple form, after removal, is opened at once by pulling or merely shaking the last turn. For the sake of clearness the bight, V, does not overlap the other turns in the figure. Of course, each swing will send it farther than shown. The advantage of the triple coil is that its three turns are more comfortable than one, especially in case of a severe strain on the rope. The five-fold loop takes up some fourteen feet more rope than the single bight and is useful in shortening a rope. This is as far as it is worth while to go in repeating the operation described, but it is interesting to make the seven-fold coil once at least, as the distinctive character of the knot is not so evident when it is made with only a few turns. Perhaps too much has already been said in favour of the Butterfly Knot. Here it need only be added that in some points, as in its flatness and good entry, it is improved by being made with a triple coil.

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348 Knots for Climbers. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES. Corp ror Tests. It will beremembered that the cord used in testing the knots bore a tension of 21 lb., though it was only yy of an inch thick—ample, it may be repeated, for determining relative strength. The cord was supplied with others as Italian hemp, and only its remarkable breaking-load, equiva- lent to a ton and a half on a full-size rope, led to a suspicion that it might be flax. The manufacturers have confirmed this suspicion and it becomes necessary to correct the statement that the line used was Italian hemp. Tres on UNEQUAL Ropes. A further oversight in connexion with the tests was the omission of any reference to the difficulty of joing unequal ropes. It is well known that the Reef Knot, for instance, will not hold with unequal cords. A similar defect in a Climber’s Bend would be such a serious matter that, even if it were not mentioned, it could not have been overlooked. Both the Sennit and Reever Knots were tested with ropes differing two to one in thickness, and were found to hold well. In fact, they hold with differences in diameter much greater than need be considered by the climber. MeEtHops oF Makino Knots. The temptation to range the ropes on 4 flat surface in learning a knot should be overcome as soon as possible. The instructions for making the knots should then be followed closely, at least until a better method is discovered. They are given in detail in the hope of imparting the neatest method of handling a rope on the mountain side. The Butterfly Knot, for instance, can be made by ranging the rope on a rock, but not in 6 seconds, nor even in 16, whereas with the natural method just proposed it can be made with speed and certainty amid a tangle of hanging ropes. Similarly, in the Sennit Knot, once the ropes are crossed, they must be held in the left hand with the thumb and forefinger on the central cross of the knot, so as to leave the right hand free to manipulate the ends. TERMINOLOGY. If there has been some carelessness in the use of terms in the earlier part of this paper, it only reflects the slipshod terminology of knots. Two points alone require some explanation. The term ‘ Thumb Knot’ is still occasionally used for Over- hand Knot, but this usage has never crept into the paper. The Thumb Knot of the paper is always the Weaver’s Thumb Knot, included in the tests of 1892 as the Weaver’s Knot.

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Knots for Clumbers. 849 It then appeared to be nearly as strong as the Double Sheet Bend, and was over 10 per cent. stronger than the Sheet Bend, the weakest knot tested in 1892. The use of the word ‘ noose’ throughout the paper is less defensible. In every instance it is set down against the writers’ conviction. It seemed to be a simple expedient to adopt the term ‘Middleman Noose,’ out of deference to authorities on mountaineering, in the vain hope of avoiding discussion. The fact is that a new word 1s badly needed for a loop closed with a fast knot. Loop is not available, for it is needed in the stricter sense defined a few pages back in connection with the lay of the rope. THE Com Hitcu, a double Marling Hitch, would seem to be the best knot for finishing off a coil of rope. The coil is held in the left hand with the end running towards the right; the end is given two or three turns round the coil, each turn lying to the left of that just made, and the end is then passed to the right under the turns to lie in its original direction. THE Rover Knot. A correspondent ? has pointed out that this knot is liable to be turned inside out in loosening it and converted into a slipknot. The dislocation is effected by turning the single bight in the knot backwards over the knot. It was a bit hard to discover, and it probably would not occur readily, but climbers may feel that even a mere possibility is not to be tolerated. Tae Waist-Rops AND EYE has recently been recommended ° as the only attachment which lets the full strength of the rope come into play in a fall. An eye, which is better served over to prevent chafing, is spliced at the end of the rope, and the Waist-Rope (Figure XI) is threaded through the eye and fastened round the body. This attachment, hardly to be called a knot, is as strong as it is revolutionary, and in virtue of its strength it may have to be considered with the knots recommended in this paper for the end of the rope. Its most serious disadvantage is that a loop-splice is almost certain to jam in roping-down. Moreover, as long as it is in use at both ends, the rope must always be used at the same length. It is, thus, the least adaptable of all 2 Mr. Thomas D. Cabot of Boston, Massachusetts. It is worth noting that Mr. Cabot adds: ‘In spite of this danger, I agree that the Rover is the best all-round knot that has been devised.’ * Dr. Karl Huber, Die Festigkett von Bergsetlen, D. & GB. A.-V. Mitt., 1928, p. 97. VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. d 2A

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850 Knots for Clumbers. attachments, but less inconvenience would be felt, were it used only at one end of the rope. With this restriction, then, it might be recommended, for it offers the further advantage that two ropes, each with a loop- splice at one end, admit of the easiest and strongest of ties. In making it, the eye of one is slipped over the other, and then the whole of the first rope is drawn through the second eye. A MippLEeMAN Bow.inE can only be formed by locking two distinct Bowlines together. As two ends are required, the rope must be in separate sections. Thus the knot enables short lengths of rope to be carried and joined up round a long- suffering middleman, and it is, in any case, a sound method of joining short ropes. A Bowline is made round the waist with the end of one rope; the end of the other is now threaded through the initial loop of the first Bowline, entering the knot where the first end emerges, and passed round to meet its own rope at the opposite side of the waist. The second Bowline knot is made by the device employed in the Bowline and Coil, so as to include the turn of rope already round the waist. In this way the Bowlines are kept from slipping apart, and any strain is evenly distributed, because each knot grips the bight of the other Bowline. A SuInG ror AN INJuRED Man. Hitherto the best plan has been to use a three-looped Bowline. A Bowline is made, as if single, on a doubled bight of the rope; the end of the double bight, corresponding to the loose end in the single Bowline, is left long enough and is used as a third loop. This is quite an effective sling and must not be confounded with the Bowline on a Bight, which has sometimes been recommended, but is useless for the purpose, It 1s better, however, to use the Bowline and Coil, because each loop is adjusted as it is made and there is less disturbance of the patient. THE Bow ineE AND Cor as sling for an injured man. Stand at the patient’s nght. Take the rope in the left hand placed against his waist, so as to leave an end long enough for four turns round his body. Pass the end from his left side behind his back to make the first turn round his waist. Make the second turn round his thigh, the third round the other thigh, and the fourth round the waist. At the end of each turn pass the rope, always in the same direction, across the upturned palm of the left hand. Now knot the Bowline and Coil by the device already described. Push a bight of the rope downwards under the turns in the left hand. Lay the standing part of

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La Haute Cime Des Dents Du Midi. 7 the rope for a moment towards the patient’s feet and across the bight to form the loop of the Bowline. Pass the end down through the loop and finish the Bowline and Coil. A perfect sling is made by adding a Butterfly Loop some six inches above the knot of the Bowline and adjusting it round the patient’s chest under his arms. With this sling it should be possible to lift or lower a patient freely, with as much safety as if he were lashed in a chair or stretcher. In ConcLusion the suggestions previously made in this paper had better be modified slightly. A LIST OF RECOMMENDED KNOTS. For the end of the rope :— The Double-Knotted Bowline. The Bowhine and Coil. For the middle of the rope :— The Butterfly. The Triple Butterfly. The Waist-Rope Hitch. For the tie :— | The Sennit Knot. The Reever Knot. La Haute CIME pes DEnts pu Mipt1. The following extracts from letters from Mr. Joseph Cooke Smith clear up an intricate point, hitherto unnoticed, of the topography of the Champéry side of the Haute Cime. The point arose on a question as to the late Mr. F. W. Bourdillon’s route up the N. face. CHALET DES TERRASSES, CHAMPERY, VALAIS, SWITZERLAND. March 5, 1928. Dear Caprarn Farrar,—In answer to your letter of March 2, 1928, just received : The route given by de Breugel on p. 18 of ‘ La Dent du Midi’ is an easy climb below the rock face of the Haute Cime, while the climber is on a slope that faces nearly W. It does not really touch the rocks of the steep N. face of the Haute Cime, except for a short climb up a gully of the ridge separating the western and the northern face. I do not know, however, that anyone else makes this distinction between a western face and a northern face, yet there is this ridge

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852 Notes on the East Face Routes of the Dom. which goes high to near the top of the Haute Cime, and there is this northern face, very steep and covered in many places with black ice, rising from the level of the top of ‘ Selaire ’ to the summit. Bourdillon was trying to do the Doigt de Champéry from the Champeéery side, but once he had left the usual gully by turning sharply to the left, he found himself cut off by very steep black ice from further progress towards the Doigt. On his return he told me that it was the most difficult and dangerous climb he had ever made. I am quite confident that no one had ever been on this face of the Haute Cime before. . . . I am mailing you two telephotographs of the Haute Cime of the Dents du Midi. The first was taken in April 1905, I believe, at a point half an hour above Champéry and a little to the north of the village. It shows the W. face and a little of the N. face at the summit. The second was taken in September 1924, at a point an hour above Val d’Illiez and to the N. of the village. It forms a series of tele- photographs to make a panorama of the Dents du Midi. From the two photographs you can make out the ridge that divides the W. and N. faces. I have never seen in print any reference to this N. face. I have traced what would seem to have been Bourdillon’s route, as far as I could make out from what he himself wrote to me and from our discussions of the climb, and from what the guide Edouard Défage told me. Both, however, were so vague as to the route followed, when shown a photograph, that little value can be given to this sketch. Yet it conforms to the facts he gave me. I have been waiting with impatience for the appearance of the Guide to this district which the Geneva section of the Swiss Alpine Club were scheduled to bring out four or five years ago. If this Guide does not contain 8 complete list of all the first ascents of the several summits of the Dents du Midi, I must do some work myself with that in view. | Very sincerely, JosEPH CooKE SMITH. Notes ON THE East Face Routes oF THE Dom. By O. K. WILLIAMSON. THE raison détre of these notes really les in an account of an expedition in the Alpina of May 15, 1924, by Herr Hans Frdlicher, entitled ‘ Der Dom iiber die Ostflanke.’ In this there are incorrect statements in respect of a variation effected by my friends Joseph Pollinger, Heinrich Fux and myself in 1907. It seemed a suitable opportunity, whilst dealing with this matter, to review as far as my information permits, the most important departures from the route followed on the occasion of the first ascent on this side in 1875

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Photo. J. Cooke Smith. HAUTE CIME, DENTS du MIDI (Apmi). gle 1OO G tized by Dig

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Notes on the East Face Routes of the Dom. 858 by Messrs. A. D. and W. B. Puckle. I gladly acknowledge valuable information, particularly in respect of Sir H. 8. King’s route in 1890 and that by Mr. Sydney L. King in 1906, obtained from my friend the guide Theodor Baumann. He kindly marked various routes on a photograph with which I provided him. In regard to the 1890 expedition he also had the advantage of knowledge obtained from @ conversation with Ambrose Supersaxo (Vater), and has added to my debt to him by furnishing me with the substance of this. From Baumann’s information it is obvious that the route of Sir H. S. King and also that of Mr. S. L. King are quite wrongly indicated in the illustration (a reproduction of a photograph taken by J. Gaberell from the Lange Fluh) on p. 125 of the Alpina in question. The latter is actually the route taken by us in 1907, and our 1907 route is also quite incorrectly marked. Let us now consider the routes of these three expeditions. Ambrose Supersaxo’s description to Baumann of the expedition effected by Sir H. 8. King, himself and Xaver Imseng in 1890 1s in these words: ‘ Vom Schlafplatz hinauf tiber die Felsen bis zur Schneewand, dann links gegen das Domjoch zwischen Domjoch und Don, so eine halbe Stunde vom Domjoch geht es rechts zur Domspitze, so 100 meter unter der Spitze geht es hiniiber und kommt dann links auf die Spitze wo es noch Cornisch [?] Jochheren (s7c) miissen um auf die Spitze zu kommen.’ Thus it will be seen that this route is on the K. face of the mountain throughout, and never touches the S. aréte, whereas in the marked illustration in the article it is shown as striking the S. aréte at a point about two-thirds of the distance from the Domjoch to the summit from the former. On the second expedition with which we have to deal the party consisted of Mr. Sydney L. King, with Theodor Baumann and Ambrose Supersaxo (jun.). The route is wrongly attributed in the Alpina article to W. J. King, and in the Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, vol. 11. p. 245, the party is incorrectly described as consisting of Messrs. Sydney Locke King and William J. King, with Ambrose and Oscar Supersaxo. Baumann describes the route to me thus: ‘ Vom Schlafplatz hinauf den gleichen Weg wie Ambrose (referring to Sir H. S. King’s route), auch links hinauf bis auf den Grat, so eine halbe Stunde unter die Spitze, und dann rechts iiber den Grat auf die Spitze.’ The descent was on this occasion effected by the same route, being apparently the first descent by the E. face. This route again is wrongly marked in the illustration, in which it is shown to strike the S. aréte halfway between the Domjoch and the summit; in fact, as already mentioned, our route of 1907 corresponds very approximately with this route as figured. In regard to our 1907 route. It reaches the 8. aréte of the mountain approximately midway between the Domjoch and the summit, and is correctly described in the Guide des Alpes Valaisannes (vol. iii. p. 245), and, contrary to the statement in Herr Frélicher’s

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854 Notes on the East Face Routes of the Dom. article, is quite distinct from Sir H. 8. King’s route (Alpina article, p. 126). This should certainly be known as ‘ Joseph Pollinger’s route.’ To him, and him alone, is due the credit for its inception, and I take this opportunity of entering my firm protest against the custom of Pirow, V. A. Wilramsons No. I.—Tuxz Dom From Saas FEE. a particular route being necessarily associated with the names of the amateur or amateurs, to the exclusion of those of their pro- fessional companions, when all of these formed part of the original party which accomplished it. On the previous occasion when Joseph ascended the mountain on this side he accompanied his father with Messrs. Claude M. Thompson and the late Herbert E. Marsh (Marsh, ‘ Two Seasons in Switzerland,’ p. 185), and doubtless kept his eyes open with a view to possible improvements of the route. On the occasion of our climb, therefore, having never previously been on this side of the mountain, I gave him an absolutely free hand

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Notes on the East Face Routes of the Dom. 855 in the matter of choosing the route. The route taken by Mr. 8. L. King strikes the S. ridge, apparently, approximately halfway between the point where ours reaches the ridge and the top of the mountain. In regard to the Puckles’ route on September 3, 1875, the party consisted of Messrs. A. D. and W. B. Puckle, with Johann Petrus and Lorenz Noti. The description in the Gude des Alpes Valarsannes (ibid. pp. 243-45), whilst it corresponds with the route which appears to have been usually taken, shows in the lower part a considerable divergence from the original route. The original route strikes the rocks at the foot of the mountain at a point described as ‘ nght under the hédchste Spitze’ (‘A.J.’ 7, 324). It is stated in the description of the climb that the party had ‘ never gone straighter at anything’ (ibid.). It finally reached the N.E. ridge about 50 yards from the summit. The route, however, as described in the Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, starts on the lowest patch of rocks on the face to the right of the flat mdge reaching down from near the Domjoch to the glacier! These rocks are S. of those up which the Puckle expedition climbed, and separated from them by a couloir ; this couloir appears to descend from the actual summit of the mountain and is broad in its lower portion. From the bivouac low down on these rocks (used also for the passage of the Domjoch) the ascent is made obliquely to the night, traversing several snow couloirs until the actual Puckle route is rejoined in one hour from the bivouac (ibid. p. 243). Herr Froélicher makes the statement (Alpina article, p. 126), referring to the Puckles’ route as described in the Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, that ‘ unrichtig ist lediglich der eingeklammerte Satz der besagt dass die Hauptrippe direct vom Fee gletscher erreicht werden kann. ... Tatsachlich ist dieser Weg auch noch nicht gemacht worden.’ It would appear, however, that this statement is not in accordance with fact, and that the Puckle party, starting from the foot of the E. face in the region of the ‘ Bivouac du Dom’ (a sleeping-place marked B in illustra- tion in Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, vol. ui. p. 244), did reach the ‘Hauptrippe ’ direct.? Again it would seem that Mr. M. Carteighe with Gabriel Taug- walder and Xaver Imseng in an ascent of the Dom from Saas (‘ A.J.’ 15, 101-3) in 1885, after sleeping at the “ Bivouac du Dom,’ climbed, as did the Puckle party, direct up these rocks. It would appear that besides those described above, the only important deviation from the Puckles’ route was one effected on August 11, 1888, by Herr Wetzckin (see Alpina article, p. 126, in 1 AJ. 15, 110. 2 It should be noted, however, that the Puckles’ route as shown in the above-mentioned illustration is incorrectly figured, except at the commencement of the rocks, where it appears to be correct. It is made to lie in a great couloir instead of on the rib on the (true) right of this.

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356 Notes on the East Face Routes of the Dom. which the name is given as ‘ Wetzstein’ ; also ‘ A.J.’ 15, 110) with Ambrose Supersaxo (Vater) and Xaver Imseng. This starts from the bivouac on the rocks last referred to, ascends in a fairly straight direction towards the summit apparently in a couloir, for the greater part of the way by snow and rocks to the left of the ridge. Finally, I must join issue with the writer of the Alpina article when he states: ‘ Wir wihlten die letztere, die mit recht als die sicherste und beste angesehen wird’ (p. 124). (He refers here to the modified Puckle route as described in the Guide des Alpes et « om No. II.—TAscuHorn anp Dom. Valaisannes.) It would be interesting to know upon what evidence this statement is based, for it is indeed difficult to understand why a route which traverses several couloirs admittedly subject to avalanches should be stated to be safer than one (I refer to our route) which differs from it principally in the fact that it crosses no couloir and is for its greater part on a well-defined rib, one which, moreover, involves being on the face for a markedly shorter time. Thus our time to the summit was 4 hrs. 10 mins., the S. ridge being reached in 3 hrs. 13 mins.,? whilst the ascents by other routes of which I have 8 Again Mr. C. F. Meade with Pierre Blanc repeated the ascent by this route on August 5, 1908, and occupied almost 5 hours from the bivouac to the summit, of which about 4} hours were occupied in arriving at the S. aréte (Guide des Alpes Valaisannes, vol. iii. p. 245).

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The Thioly and Pilkington Routes up the Jungfrau in 1862. 357 information as to the times have (with the exception of one made apparently under quite exceptionally difficult conditions) varied from 6 to 7} hrs. In considering the E. flank routes of the Dom it is a noteworthy fact that, so far as I am aware, no ascent has up to the present been effected up that portion of the face between the Puckles’ mb and the Nadeljoch route, probably owing to the fact that a considerable portion of this wall of the mountain is of quite appalling and even forbidding steepness. [Description of Photographs (marked I and II) to illustrate notes on the E. face of the Dom :— No. I.—* The Dom from Saas Fee’ (an exceptional amount of snow lies on the face of the mountain). The routes, as marked, are in order from right to left. (a) The Puckle route, 1875. (b) Sir H. S. King’s route, 1890. (c) Mr. S. L. King’s route, 1906. (d) The Pollinger-Williamson route, 1907. It is to be noted that the 1890 and 1906 routes do not separate until a considerable height on the face has been reached, and that the 1890 route leads directly to the summit; further, that the point to the right of this appearing in the photograph as the summit is in reality a shoulder on the N.K. aréte of the mountain (the Puckle route strikes the N.E. aréte at this point). No. II.—‘* The Dom and Taschhorn from the Lange Fluh.’ The routes are marked as indicated under No. I. Again, the summit is at the point where the 1890 route reaches the top of the face.] THE THIOLY AND PILKINGTON ROUTES UP THE JUNGFRAU IN 1862. By J. P. FARRAR. In ‘A.J.’ 17, 400 seg., Mr. Coolidge presented an able analysis of these routes, but the want of any illustration to his paper, as well as of any photographs taken from a close suitable point, left me, as well doubtless as others, by no means clear as to the exact lines followed. Dr. Ernst Jenny, the able co-editor of the 8.A.C.’s Die Alpen, has been good enough to send me the letters referred to in Mr. Coolidge’s paper, which had passed with the sale of his library. 1 Pilkington to Ball, November 17, 1863; Coolidge to Pilkington, February 15, 1895 ; Pilkington to Coolidge, February 16, 1895.

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858 The Thioly and Pilkington Routes up the Jungfrau an 1862. I submitted these letters to Dr. Hans Lauper, whose knowledge of the topography of the mountain, gained on its ascent by many routes, is unsurpassed. It is satisfactory to learn that the S.A.C. Committee have entrusted to him the revision of the volume of the Climbers’ Guide covering this district. Dr. Lauper, with characteristic thoroughness, actually ascended on July 13 the Rottalhorn, which faces the Jungfrau at close quarters. Hethen discussed the question with Herr OthmarGurtner, another well-known authority on Jungfrau topography, who has also kindly supplied several explanatory photographs. It will be remembered that up to about (?) 1890 it was the practice to gain the Rottalsattel from the glacier bay N. of the snow aréte descending due E. to Pt. 3388 Szegfried by overcoming an often formidable, at times impassable, bergschrund at its head. Fig. 1 shows a possible case. The Thioly and Pilkington parties in 1862 were faced with such & position, and accordingly bore away to their right to gain the rocks forming the left or S. edge of the E. face. Fig. 2 (from an aeroplane) shows this E. rock face. Both parties followed this edge as indicated by the dotted lines on Fig. 2? until higher up the Thioly party bore away to the left to gain the S.E. aréte, whereas the Pilkington party kept to their right and gained the summit from the E. side. The variation 18 negligible. These conclusions appear to be in complete accord with Mr. Coolidge’s as expressed in his paper mentioned above. This paper is a brilliant example of the infinitely painstaking methods followed by the great master and for which mountaineers, past, present and future, will ever remain in his debt. About 1890,? owing to constant difficulties with the bergschrund below the Rottalsattel, the very much better and safer ‘ route over the great snowy rib which descends from the shoulder of Rottalhorn due E. to Pt. 3388 Siegfried, shown but not named on the Siegfried map, but generally known as the Kranzberg or Kranzbergegg, was adopted. This is well seen on the picture, Fig. 2, the side falling 2 Incidentally this picture shows on the extreme left a party resting at the head of the Kranzberg or present route, while higher up two other parties will be seen. The bodies of the six young Swiss, of whom some at least were capable mountaineers, who fell from near the summit in 1887 (A.J. 18, 394) were found at the left foot of the great east rock wall seen on this picture (Fig. 2) and had obviously fallen more or less down the Thioly-Pilkington line of ascent. * The date is uncertain and needs further enquiry. ‘ The fatal accident to the two Andereggs was caused by their leaving the aréte and starting an avalanche on the slope which they attempted to cross (A.J. 18, 557).

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Fig. 1. BERGSCKIRUND below the ROTTALSATTEL.

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"SYVO OM IOP UOMO ‘toby & tV.ELOU UIsvg of} JO Jo, UO OJOIL YY AWAZNVUIM sResp OF Wowy QYA) VT ON IP pue Qj) NYOMWIVLLOW 9G Fly “OLY BAUS) “OVOU?"| -

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The Monch as a Point for Scientific Observations. 859 away in vertical snow cliffs. The Meyer party of 1811 appears to have gained the snow slopes at the upper end of this snow rib by following the valley on its S. side, well visible in Fig. 2, whereas the Meyer party of 1812 appears to have rounded this rib near Pt. 3388 and then mounted parallel to the rib on its N. side and so gained the Rottalsattel direct by the way generally followed up to about 1890. Tue MéncuH as A Pornt For SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS. An Observatory will be erected to the memory of the Founder of the Jungfrau Railway, a Swiss, the late Guyer-Zeller, in the glacier district which the railway has opened up. The Swiss Natural Scientific Society is at the present moment studying the plans for this memorial which is to be built on the Jungfraujoch, but before this monument can be erected the most favourable spot on the Jungfraujoch for high altitude observations will be no longer available, and has been taken advantage of to commemorate the meteorological studies of the late de Quervain, the astronomical observations of Koelliker and Schaer, and the observations of the ‘ penetrating radiation ’ of Kolhoerster (1923-6). The expedition to the summit of the Ménch in the year 1927 had also reference to the research work of the ‘ penetrating radiation.’ As the observations had to be carried out day and night, it was necessary to arrange a refuge of some kind on the summit, where the apparatus could be set up and where the observers could stay. For this purpose a level surface was shovelled out a few metres below the top on the E. side of the snow cap, where the apparatus could be stored and used, and a tent was set up there similar to the polar tent of de Quervain on his journey to Greenland. A roomy shelter was dug out for the observers in the névé shaped like an ice cave. A passage-way, 5 m. long, whose entrance lay near the entrance to the tent, led inside the cave and broadened out on one side into a sleeping divan with room enough for three men, and on the other side opened out into a little kitchen where the Swedish primus stove was set up. Other hollowed-out places held provisions, utensils, the log-book, and the medicine chest. The place was covered with rubber flooring, assuring a good insulation against the snow below, and on top of this a felt mat # in. thick was placed and three Norwegian sleeping bags as well as sheep skins, which formed the furnishings of the cave. A strong, 4 ft., double-winged door, opening inwards, closed this stronghold, which was named ‘ Ménch Pavillon, 4105 m.’ Near the door stood a flagpole enabling one to find one’s way back to the pavillon even in the worst snowstorm. Two shovels were tied of the upper end of the pole, to enable one to dig one’s way to the oor.

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860 The Paulin Aneroid. All this material was brought up to the Upper Ménchjoch by the Polar dog outfit of the Jungfrau Railway, and from there was carried to the top over the normal climbing route wa the S.E. ridge by carriers. The observations were carried out by the individuals -mentioned at the end of this article in such a manner that three were always on duty in the Jungfrau district. The handy apparatus used for the purpose of observations every two hours were required partly on the Jungfraujoch and partly on the Ménch. From June 18 to October 13 we were altogether 34 days on the peak and spent 17 nights, two or three at a time, on the summit. When the observations were concluded, the tent was carried down into the valley, but the ice cave was only closed with blocks of ice. It is intended to arrange this ice-cave yearly and to furnish it with all necessaries. In this way it will be a valuable extra station for the Joch Observatory, and mountaineers will be able to find a welcome shelter there in bad weather or violent storms. Possibly also lovers of nature will find a friendly sojourn there some day or night, and may experience the wonderful charm of the summit. One of our comrades died during the expedition from an illness which he had contracted in the valley. We are dedicating this shelter on the Monch to his memory and are erecting a ‘ Walter Schmidt Monument, to the furtherance of scientific and Alpine observations on the Monch.’ The undersigned heartily thanks the following gentlemen for their sacrifices and the untiring help rendered in the execution of the observations: Herren Engler, Frey, Julliard, Juon, Kleiber, Lombard, Meyer, Necker, and the late Walter Schmidt. GUBERT VON AALIS, Sektion *‘ Bernina’ S.A.C. Tue PauLin ANEROID. By FRANK SKANTZE. wir the invention of the metal barometer (aneroid) an attempt has been made to obtain an instrument adapted to practical work and with the advantages of the mercurial barometer, but without its drawbacks. This endeavour, however, has only partially succeeded, and the aneroid has since its inception actually not undergone any appreciable changes, and only minor successes have been achieved in effecting rather insignificant improvements. It is still suffering greatly from the original errors, such as friction in the mechanism and the elastic hysteresis which, especially in measuring altitude, may

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Photo. de Beauclair. MONCH, with the shelter for men and apparatus. Photo. de Beauclair. Ice Cave, MONCH.

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The Paulin Aneroid. 861 cause fatal errors, growing worse in proportion to an increase of pressure. The new aneroid now available on the market, and named the Paulin aneroid after its inventor, is free from all these defects, and to judge from the highly satisfactory reports from scientists and surveyors and prominent institutions in England, on the Continent as well as in America, the claims of the makers seem justified. The instrument has no bearings between the box and the pointer, while the box, by the use of the zero-gauging method, is always brought into an exact normal position when a reading is taken, thus doing away with the friction and lag. The design of the new instrument is characterised chiefly by the following: The pressure acts upon a metal membrane in such a manner that by means of a spring, which can be set by hand, the pressure can be counteracted until the membrane again reaches a certain normal position. This can be observed on a hand or pointer, called the ‘tendency-pointer,’ connected frictionlessly with the membrane. This pointer moves over a small scale in the periphery of the dial between the marks + and —. In the centre between these marks there is a zero line. With a rising air-pressure the tendency pointer endeavours to move towards +, with a falling pressure towards —. The setting of the spring, by which, as has been mentioned, the air pressure is counteracted, is varied by the centre knob in the middle of the instrument being turned in one direction or the other. With this knob there is connected not only a micrometer screw with which the aforesaid spring is set, but also a pointer projecting from the centre called the main pointer which clearly shows the air pressure in inches of mercury, or, on the altimeter types, the height differences in feet. Every time the tendency pointer is set to zero the main pointer on the scale will give a new reading instantly and with great accuracy, and, as the main pointer does not move when the air pressure changes, but remains in its position until the afore- said setting of the tendency pointer takes place, the previous reading can be controlled. This means that when ascending or descending, there is no necessity of waiting at every considerable change of height, as one has to do when using the ordinary type of altimeter, which latter must be left to recover. The accuracy of the Paulin altimeter is practically not influenced by sudden changes, and the ascent or descent can be carried on without delay and loss of time. English laboratory tests (at the National Physical Laboratory, Teddington), with a 9000 ft. ranged Paulin altimeter, whereby the pressure was diminished at a rate corresponding to an altitude-change of about 1000 ft. in five minutes, showed that when reaching the pressure corresponding to the 8990 ft. height, the Paulin altimeter indicated 9000 ft. As already mentioned, in the Paulin aneroid the membrane itself does not regulate the main pointer; this is done by hand. For this

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862 Exhibition of Pictures at the Alpine Club. reason the deviation of the main pointer or the length of the scale can be given practically any extension without any friction whatever causing trouble. In order, however, to enable these advantages to be utilised, it is necessary that the transmission of motion from the membrane to the tendency pointer should take place with a large gear ratio. This is obtained by means of a simple system of four flexible phosphor-bronze strips, symmetrically placed two and two in such a manner that a large gear ratio is obtained, and the pointer spindle with the motions of the membrane is made to rotate round its mathematical axis. The instruments, of which there are various types such as those available for mountaineering, surveying, aviation and meteorological purposes, have proved their durability and ability to stand up to continuous rough usage over a prolonged period. Their prices are kept on about the same level as similar instruments of the ordinary type. The appearance of the Paulin aneroid will no doubt be a welcome addition to the mountaineer’s and tourist’s equipment. It is not a toy but a precise scientific instrument. The manufacturers are the well-known firm, C. E. Johansson, Eskilstuna, Sweden. [An illustration of the Paulin aneroid will be found among the advertisements of the present number. An instrument for demon- stration and show is at the R.G.S., Kensington Gore.] EXHIBITION OF PICTURES AT THE ALPINE CLUB. Pays des monts, pays des hautes cimes, Dans Veil d'un frére il est doux de te vorr. JUSTE OLIVIER. d has distinguish really good work from bad,’ says Prof. Gilbert Murray,? ‘is often a delicate and difficult task, demanding in the critic such qualities as taste and knowledge, and, above all, a fresh and interested mind.’ The writer of these notes makes no claim to any of these qualities but the last, where, doubtless, he is on common ground with all those members, whose climbing days, like his own, are growing ‘smaller by degrees and beautifully less’; and if, as so often happens, we are unable to visit the Alps and behold with our own eyes the mountains of our adoration, with all the greater interest do we enjoy looking at the reproduc- 1 The Classical Tradition in Poetry.

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Exhibition of Pictures at the Alpine Club. 868 tion of familiar scenery by others, amongst which we have spent so many of our happiest hours. We agree with R. L. Stevenson: ‘ Desire is a wonderful telescope, and Pisgah the best observatory.’ # The Exhibition of Alpine Paintings, held at the Club Rooms from April 8 to 25, was noteworthy, if for no other reason, on account of the drawings by the late Miss Katherine Richardson. There was a large number of these which could not fail to delight any true lover of the hills, however much they may have failed to satisfy the art critic of the Morning Post*: those which most pleased us were two drawings of La Meije, ‘ Mont Blanc from the Alpe de Chenevis,’ the ‘ Cervin from Giomein,’ the ‘ Aiguille du Tour from Finhaut and from the Col de Forclaz,’ the ‘ Deut du Midi,’ and the ‘ Portalet ’—while the ‘ Alpine Forest’ (No. 114) was one of the best things in the whole exhibition, the effect of sunshine on, and between the boles of the pines, recalling only too vividly pleasant memories of many a delightful lazy morning in the forest, ‘ with the wood- land green around us, and a snowfield shining through.’ In a very different style, an outstanding drawing was the ‘ Brenva Glacier’ (No. 36), by Mr. Cecil Hunt: this was not only a little masterpiece of composition, but an extraordinarily effective study of ice, one of the best things of the kind we remember to have seen. Mr. Hunt had another picture, ‘ On the Col. du Lautaret ’ (No. 25); but this, while effective, was more in the style of purple-blue hills of which he is so fond, and did not give us the same sense of pleasure as the Brenva Glacier. Mr. Colin Philip had a fine ‘ Glimpse of the Altels ’ (No. 81), as well as an attractive picture of the foot-hills of the ‘Rhone Valley from Villeneuve in Spring’ (No. 26). Mr. A. F. Topham’s drawings are always interesting: he appears to be attracted by tree-trunks against a snowy back- ground (Nos. 88 and 101), and we liked the colour of his snow and sky in No. 6. Prof. J. Norman Collie’s drawings of the ‘ Coolin’ were very effective, as was also No. 68, a view of ‘ Heckla and Ben More.’ Col. H. R. B. Donne showed several drawings, of which 2 Memories and Portraits. 8 “The 190 Alpine paintings now at the Alpine Club Rooms in comparatively few cases convey any sense of mountain mass or height of peak, yet many of them do manage to suggest the kind of effect from which their artists have reacted.’ (Morning Post, April 16, 1928.)

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864 Exhibition of Pictures at the Alpyne Club. No. 11 * was perhaps the best example of composition, while No. 18 (‘Savoy Alps in the Spring’) was also pleasing—we cannot help thinking that this artist is too painstaking to be entirely successful in his representation of mountain scenery : a less finished style would probably produce more natural results. A fine bit of colour was to be seen in * Lago Maggiore ’ by Miss Phyllis Pearce (No. 10), and we liked also her ‘ Above Samaden ’ (No. 55) and ‘ Winter Afterglow ’ (No. 165). Mr. Conrad Corelli showed a fine drawing of ‘ Kangchenjunga ’ (No. 18), and his ‘ Croda Rossa’ (No. 16) was a pleasing study of red foliage against red rocks—he has evidently found a happy hunting ground in the Cortina neighbourhood. Mr. C. G. Blampied is one of the regular exhibitors whose mountain work we are always glad to see: The ‘ Téte Noire Pass’ (No. 84), the ‘ Palii Glacier’ (No. 104), and the ‘ Eiger and Ménch’ (No. 188) we should have ascribed to him any- where: but in ‘ Albogasio’ (No. 57) and ‘Chillon Castle ’ (No. 62) he has attempted, not without success, other subjects and apparently a different style. Mr. Edgar Wybroo’s ‘ Leissiger Grat’ (No. 87) and ‘ Jung- frau from Higergletscher ’ (No. 47) called for comment, as did two clever drawings by Miss Hilda Hechle: of these we much preferred No. 42, a glacier scene in which the sky reminded us of an Elijah Walton. The flowers in the foreground of No. 82 (anemones and gentians) must surely have needed a telephotoscopic eye, to portray the single flower on such a - scale ! Mr. J. Walter West’s ‘ Bellagio ’ (No. 28) was typical of that artist, and his ‘ Approaching Storm’ (No. 151) was an admirable piece of work. We do not remember to have seen Miss McConnell’s work before: ‘Binn’ (No. 46) was decidedly attractive, and personally we preferred it to Mr. Robert Brant’s version of the same scene (No. 50). There was a similar con- trast in Nos. 56 and 57, both representing waterfalls, but whereas Mr. E. W. Powell’s (No. 56) appealed to us as a fine waterfall (although surely the Reichenbach has usually more water ?), the ‘ Waterfall’ of Miss Veronica Lucas (No. 57) seemed a curiously unnatural stream. Other pictures to which attention was directed were ‘ Piz Bernina’ (No. 59) by Mrs. 4 One of Colonel Donne’s most striking pictures; it is described as the ‘ Monte Disgrazia from Lake Como,’ but should read as the ‘ Sasso Manduin.’ M. Disgrazia, some 30 miles distant to the E., is quite invisible from any part of the lake.—Edttor.

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‘SZ6I-FSST ‘Sc6I-E9ORT “AWVAUN ‘H 0 “TTAE-HYOCINANIVE *2 “ol

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In Memoriam. 365 E. M. Dixon, ‘ Lyskamm ’ by Miss McAndrew (No. 72), ‘ Morn- ing Mists’ (No. 79) by Col. H. Howard, two drawings in Skye (Nos. 115 and 116) by Miss Helen McAlpin, and (No. 88) an effective drawing of ‘ Cascade Mountain, Banff,’ by Mr. Leonard ° Richmond. A particularly charming effect was produced by Miss Rosa Wallis in ‘ A Meadow Garden ’ (No. 60), a delightful little drawing which we much preferred to the more ambitious ‘ Flower Field ’ (No. 149), by the same artist : we may be quite wrong, but the former gave us the impression of being sketched on the spot, while the latter looked like a picture from the studio. Of Mr. Sydney Spencer’s exhibits we liked best the ‘ Hermattje Chalets’ (No. 147); and, as usual, the Club is very deeply indebted to this gentleman (and his assistants) for all the time and trouble spent on carrying out the admirable arrangement of the Exhibition. —————— IN MEMORIAM. FRANCIS CHRISTIAN BAINBRIDGE-BELL. (1863-1928.) Francis CurisTIAN BAINBRIDGE-BELL was the fourth son of the late Canon C. D. Bell, Canon of Carlisle and sometime Rector of Cheltenham, and was born in 1863. After leaving Cheltenham College, he went up to Pembroke College, Cambridge, taking his B.A. degree in 1885 and his M.A. in 1899. After his ordination in 1887 at York, he entered a career of strenuous parochial work as Curate of Rotherham Parish Church; the whole of his clerical life being thereafter spent in centres of varied activity mainly in large thickly populated parishes in or near London. His powers of organization and his capacity for work were quite out of the common, and it was largely owing to the fact that he began active mountaineer- ing at a comparatively early age, and went out to the Alps every summer until the War, that he was able to return year by year to labours that needed an unusual degree of physical fitness and strength. Unfortunately, he appears to have kept no Alpine diary or notes. He became a member of the Club in 1889, and from first to last his affection for it, and his enthusiasm for what it represented, never flagged. I remember on one occasion asking him if he would be coming to the Annual Dinner. His reply was characteristic in its quiet determination. ‘Indeed I am: not even the Archbishop of Canterbury would prevent me’! He much appreciated the VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 2B

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866 In Memoriam. Informal Meetings to which he often came. His most constant climbing companion was the late Henry Waugh; the partnership began as the result of their meeting at Saas Fee in 1896, from which date, with two exceptions, it continued until the War, after which neither was able, through the burden of increased work and somewhat failing health, to undertake serious expeditions, though both went to the Alps practically every summer up to a few months before the Great Call came. Bainbridge-Bell was a photographer of considerable merit, and some will remember a very striking picture of the Matterhorn seen through trees on the Riffel, and shown by him at one of our Exhibi- tions some years ago, afterwards reproduced, as one of exceptional merit, in the ALPINE JouRNAL. He had a serious breakdown in health, as a consequence of overwork, some five or six years ago, but made, to a considerable extent, a remarkable recovery owing to treatment in the clinic of Dr. Weber of Thun. Some time after we last met, in September 1927, in the Bernese Oberland, he was, how- ever, taken ill; and from the grave operation rendered necessary, but which had no connexion with his original trouble, he never recovered, and passed away at his home in Putney, on January 20, 1928. He leaves a widow and one daughter, but his friends are innumer- able, and to them there is left the legacy of a man of great charm of character, unvarying unselfishness and sterling worth. W. W. WILBERFORCE NEWTON TRIBE. (1855-1928.) It was my happy lot at the last Annual Dinner to find myself seated between two members of the Club to both of whom mountaineering was the great joy of their life, C. E. Montague and W. N. Tribe. Alas, both have since passed above and beyond the peaks and snows they loved so well, having left behind them happy memories to solace those who mourn their loss. Both were reserved, but nevertheless became well known: Montague by his work as a journalist and author and by his fine war record, and Tribe by his artistic skill as a photographer, and in Bristol as the much-respected President for many years of the Stock Exchange. Tribe’s photographs have often adorned the walls of the Club at the Annual Exhibition, and have found a more permanent home in books on Alpine literature. Family ties gave me the opportunity of knowing something at least of Tribe’s life and character, and as these bore the stamp of a true nobility one could not but wish that some appreciation of him, however inadequate, should be recorded in the pages of the ALPINE JOURNAL.

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WILBERFORCE N. TRIBE. 1855-1928.

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In Memoriam. ‘867 To many of the older members of the Club, Wilberforce Newton Tribe was known as a devoted lover of the mountains, who had for many years climbed in Norway, the Alps, and every part of Britain. He was the first Englishman to ascend the Romsdalhorn in the early eighties, in company with the Norwegian guide, Eric Norge- hagen, and in the Lakes he made some of the earliest ascents of what have become to the younger generation well known, though still severe courses; of these he has himself made mention in an article entitled ‘ Reminiscences of a Septuagenarian,’ contributed only last year to the Journal of the Rock and Fell Climbing Club, of the English Lake District, vol. 7, No. 3, 1927. Very few have had a deeper feeling or fuller appreciation of natural beauty. His camera was as indispensable a part of his equipment for an expedition as the rope and the ice-axe. The many beautiful photographs which hung on the walls of his hall and stair- case showed a singular faculty for choosing the right places for obtaining a true picture, so as to give the most charming effect. . His leisure hours in winter were largely spent in the enjoyment of his extensive and well-chosen library of books on mountaineering, general travel and art. He designed a characteristic bookplate with a picture of the Romsdalhorn, surmounted by the motto ‘ Altiora Peto.’ It is indeed true to say that he not only sought but found the higher things. Tribe loved music, and had a good baritone voice. Like another fine photographer, Herman Woolley, he loved to share his joys and to send prints of his photographs to those of his friends who he knew would value them. Some of the most touching letters came after his death from his nephews and nieces, attributing to their Uncle Will, who piloted them about the hills in Lakeland and Wales, much of their own love of nature, especially of mountains, and expressing appreciation of his patient teaching in the craft of climbing. He had an intense love of flowers, and his joy in finding rare ones among the Alps and bringing them back to his wife was great. It may well be that holidays thus spent, and with such insight, enabled him to do his work in life so honourably, and with such approval of the local members of his profession as to ensure his election annually to the Chairmanship of the Bristol Stock Exchange for a period of twenty years. One of his fellow-members described him ‘ as the straightest man you could imagine, and the very soul of honour in all his business and other relations.’ During the war he enrolled as a special constable, and steadily walked his beat till the force was disbanded. Finally, he faced the pain and discomfort of his last year of illness with the same courage and patience which he had shown throughout his life. ALBERT HOPKINSON. May I add how true I feel the words above written to be ? ALFRED HopPKINSON,

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868 In Memonam. To most members of the Alpine Club, W. N. Tribe was best known by the beautiful photographs he sent from year to year to the annual exhibitions. Along with the skill of the careful craftaman in execution, they showed a true artistic sense in the selection and grouping of his subjects, and a real knowledge of nature. An intense love of natural beauty, especially as seen among the mountains, was a constant source of joy to him throughout his life. To a smaller circle he was known as having a very accurate acquaintance with mountain topography, the result both of wide reading and many years of observation. Both before and after his election as a member of the Club in 1891 his usual companions in climbing were his five brothers-in-law—John, Charles, Edward, Albert Hopkinson and myself. All were members of the Club. Two only survive, and we wish to offer our tribute to his memory. More than forty years ago I climbed with him in Cumberland, in the days when J. W. Robinson was a pioneer, and made various ascents which I believe are now well known. Afterwards my brother Edward and I spent some time with him in Norway, mainly in the Horunger Group and the Jotenheim. To the last year of his life he never missed the opportunity of spending some time among the mountains he loved so well. Careful but not timid as a climber, always modest, patient under disappointment, well informed but never assertive, inspired by a quiet enthusiasm, tenacious in carry- ing out his purpose, and kindly in his helpfulness to others when- ever occasion arose, those who knew him best recognized that the same qualities which they saw in him as a companion on holidays characterized him in all the work of life. ALFRED HOPKINSON. GEORGE HARDING NEAME. (1854-1928.) I First met G. H. Neame at Zinal in July 1900. He was my senior by nearly twenty years, but he looked so young, in fact he was so young in spirit, so fit physically, we were so alike in our love of the mountains, that we at once started climbing together—and that was the beginning of a true friendship which, with every year, grew deeper and stronger. As far as I know, with the exception of a few peaks in the Engadine, Neame had done little climbing before 1900, and most of his moun- taineering took place between 1900 and 1911, generally with that accomplished guide, Louis Theytaz of Zinal, who perished so tragically on the Glacier de Seilon in January 1911 (° A.J.’ 25, 444-7). Being an active business man, Neame, like many of us, was not able to go to the Alps every year, and, when he could, it was for a comparatively short holiday of three to four weeks, with practically no training beforehand. This explains why his list of ascents cannot be so long as that of some others; nevertheless, during his

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In Memoriam. 869 climbing seasons, he visited the principal Swiss centres as well as the Chamonix Valley, and, besides passes and minor climbs, the following peaks—mostly traversed—can be recorded: Piz Pali, Piz Corvatsch, Bliimlisalphorn, Eiger, Jungfrau (from the Rottal Hut), Fletschorn, Portjengrat, Rimpfischhorn, Lyskamm, Matter- horn, Zinal Rothhorn, Dent Blanche, Pigne d’Arolla, Aiguilles Rouges d’Arolla, Grand Combin, Dent du Géant, Grands Charmoz. I had the great pleasure of accompanying Neame in several of these climbs. Energetic, steady on ice and rocks, he was not only a safe comrade on the rope, but also a delighful companion and an admirer of Alpine scenery, always cheerful in spite of occasional adverse circumstances. On September 25-26, 1908, he had a trying experience on the Grand Combin. With Louis Theytaz and his brother Basile, he was caught in a blizzard after leaving the top, and they were compelled to take shelter in an ice cave, near the Mir de la Céte, where they spent the night from 6.45 p.m. till 6 the next morning. Neame’s diary mentions that they had candle light for about a quarter of an hour only, that it snowed continuously, and they had to sing and knock one another about to keep awake and warm. Neame was in no way affected by this mishap, and a few days later, after having gone over several passes, he was on the Lyskamm. I think that his latest important climb was the Dent Blanche in 1911, but we went to Montana together in the winter 1912-13, and had some ski-ing there. Neame took great interest in the Club, to which he was elected in 1908. He probably never missed an Annual Dinner till last year, owing to ill health, and he was, I believe, a frequent attendant at the Meetings. His numerous friends learned with deep sorrow that he had passed away on March 15, 1928, after a long illness which had prevented him from returning to Switzerland during his last years ; but, at home he lived surrounded by beautiful Alpine photos, reminders of many well-known peaks and his love of the mountains remained with him to the end. By Neame’s death, the Club has lost a faithful member, and the writer a very dear friend and climbing companion, whose memory will always recall his happiest days in the Alps. A. B. CHARLES EDWARD MONTAGUE. (1867-1928.) THis distinguished novelist, essayist and journalist, who died in Manchester on May 28 last at the age of sixty-one, was elected to the Alpine Club in 1906. He had been climbing regularly, in his brief holidays, since 1891, and continued to do so for many summers throughout his life ; chiefly i in the Alps, but also in the English

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870. In Memoriam.. Lakes and Derbyshire. The Chamonix Valley was a favourite point of departure. Montague did not attempt to add to ‘ records ’ or to perform any outstanding feats; but he was a scientific and fearless as well as a most ardent climber. Usually he went ac- companied by his wife, and often without guides. His keen eye for mountain structure, and his rare power of what he calls ‘ topo- graphical portraiture ’ (‘a knack of forming circumstantially correct visions of large patches of the earth’s surface’) are seen in such essays as “ Across the Pennines’ and ‘ When the Map is in Tune.’ These are to be found in his volume of essays entitled ‘ The Right Place’ (1924). In all his descriptions of mountaineering there is the same union of precision, gusto, and imaginative beauty; and the Alpine Club will number him, as it does Sir Leslie Stephen, amongst its eminent writers. In his collection of papers, ‘ Fiery Particles,’ there is one, “In Hanging Garden Gully,’ which also. shows his flashing humour. It is the gully which ‘led right up to the big crag over Cwm Idwal (not Twll Dhu), the ill-famed Kitchen.’ The writer relates, almost step by step, how he went up ‘ what might be called either a chimney or crack, being both’; how he guided and pulled up it a stranger, a novice with a stiff leg, a botanist prowling for rare flowers; and how this companion, tempted by a bloom, broke all the rules, crossed an ‘ impossible slant,’ and was steered through by luck and by Montague. Better known, and really a classic in their kind, are the two chapters in the novel ‘ The Morning’s War’ (1917), describing the hard, risky climb of three men, a girl, and a guide, in the Valais; it is wrought up from Montague’s memories of an ascent, made some years before, of the N.E. ridge of Mt. Allon. A detailed account of his career as a man of letters would hardly be in place in the ALPINE JOURNAL, but a few facts may be acceptable. From 1890 to 1914, and again, after war service, from 1919 to 1925, Montague was identified with the Manchester Guardian. For many years he was principal leader-writer and acting editor, and lieutenant to his chief, Mr. C. P. Scott. His war service was unusual. Though well over age he managed to enlist in the ranks; became Sergeant, and bomber; was held back by a bomb accident while training, but got to the trenches, until ill-health drove him back; took a commission, and rose to be Captain; served in the Intelligence, and became a Censor, for some time, of the English war- correspondents in France. Some fruits of this experience are seen in his most remarkable book, ‘ Disenchantment ’ (1922). Montague wrote other essays and novels of mark ; he was in the first flight as a critic of the drama. At his death he was acclaimed by journalists of many schools in the English-speaking world as an adept in their craft. His gift of finished and delicate, often barbed, expression, is nowhere better seen than in his records of the delights of danger and in his pictures of the world of mountains. He served as a member of the Committee of the Alpine Club from 1926-27.

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In Memoriam. 871. FRANCISQUE REGAUD. (1871-1928.) It is difficult to realize that this strong, forceful personage has laid down his work. He was at our last Winter Dinner when he made one of his stirring orations. In May, in his capacity of Administrateur-Directeur de V Office National de Tourisme, he repre- sented his country at a Congress in Bucarest. There the end came suddenly,? as he himself would certainly have chosen. He had played many parts in his time, as one would expect from the vigorous fighter that he was. Bred to the law, he was barrister, politician, deputy for Lyons, where he had defeated M. Herriot, later Prime Minister, but the war gave him his great opportunity. An old Alpin himself, he rejoined his battalion, the 13éme Chasseurs Alpins, on August 2, 1914, and rose speedily from the rank of Sous Lieutenant to the command until severely wounded. The battalion was for a considerable time on the Hartmannsweilerkopf front and was in some of the hardest fighting of the war. Pierre Blanc, one of his corporals, reports with enthusiasm that the Commandant’s conduct ‘ au feu’ was ‘magnifique.’ It was what we would expect. He became Chevalier and then Officier de la Légion d’Honneur, received numberless citations to his Croix de Guerre, and was promoted to Lieut.-Colonel. He had, in his younger days, done a considerable amount of mountaineering, usually with Blanc le Greffier of Bonneval, father of Auguste, Pierre and Justin Blanc, and had to his credit the first ascent of the Pic Regaud near Bonneval and of the N. aréte of the Dent d’Ambin, as Commandant Gaillard has lately shown. His devotion to the C.A.F. was unbounded, while his wide range of acquaintances and his close connexion with the T.C.F. and other similar institutions enabled him to render to it signal services. He was elected President in 1922, and had the unique honour of annual re-election, dying in office. He was an honorary member of the Alpine Club. “Un brave des braves,’ a warm-hearted friend and a stalwart opponent, he leaves behind him among his friends a strong feeling of regard and regret. oe 1 His death came unquestionably from the effects of gas-poisoning in October, 1918. Up to that moment he had escaped miraculously being wounded.

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872 New Expedstrons. NEW EXPEDITIONS. Mont Blanc Group. Mont Bianc DE CouRMAYEUR, 4753 m. = 15,595 ft., B.U.K. Direct ascent from the Brenva Glacier. August 6-7, 1928. Messrs. F. 8. Smythe and T. Graham Brown. Left Torino Hut 08.15 for the ‘ Red Sentinel’ via upper Brenva Glacier. As the last part of the route from the Col Moore to the ‘Red Sentinel’ was to be traversed late in the evening, and as heavy loads (including eiderdown sleeping-bags and food sufficient for four days) were carried, it was decided to proceed to the upper Brenva Glacier by a traverse of the Tour Ronde—which would involve a minimum of step-cutting, although the time taken would be longer than that of the Col du Trident route. The Col d’Entréves was reached at 09.30 (15 mins. halt), and the S. aréte of the Tour Ronde was ascended until 10.50, when the top of the couloir on the E. face was reached. At this point it was seen that the S. face of the Tour Ronde could again be traversed to the Col Oriental de la Tour Ronde along the line taken in the previous year. The top of this col was reached at 12.45 and the schrund (which offered some difficulty) on its 8. side was crossed at 13.35 (50 mins. halt). Arrived at top of Col Moore at 15.35; left the ridge of Col Moore at 16.40; and arrived at the ‘ Red Sentinel’ at 18.50. The chief difficulty encountered was an avalanche run (about 15 ft. in depth and overhanging on the near side) in the second couloir after leaving the Col Moore. A comparatively comfortable night was spent in sleeping-bags at the ‘ Red Sentinel,’ which was left next morning at 04.55 in fine clear weather with, however, a strong N. wind blowing powdery snow from the summit of Mont Blanc. From the base of the ‘ Red Sentinel’ a slightly upward traverse was made to the edge of the * great couloir’ near the foot of the long ridge which forms the true left bank of the branch couloir. The steep angle of the ‘ great couloir ’ eases off at this point, and it was possible with crampons to cross the couloir (here 150-200 ft. in width) in a few minutes— and thus to gain the foot of the great ridge on its true right (S.) side. This ridge was ascended on moderate rock to the foot of a very steep wall near the base of which there is a small gendarme and near which it might be possible to make a higher (but less comfort- able) bivouac place than the ‘ Red Sentinel’ (06.00). The difficult step was turned by descending again into the great couloir, the true right edge of which was ascended close to the rocks for a short distance until it was possible to regain the ridge above the steep step. The true aréte was then ascended to the first of a series of ice ridges (07.30). This ridge was a short one, but exceedingly

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New Eapedstions. 378 narrow. Some snow on its 8. side was found to be in excellent condition. More difficult rock above this ridge led to another and longer ice aréte (08.45), on the rocks at the foot of which a halt was made for 65 mins. (the last halt until after the final sérac wall had been passed at 17.55). This aréte afforded no exceptional difficulty but was immediately succeeded by (or merged into) another much more formidable one. This third aréte was exceedingly narrow with a crest of pure ice so thin that sunlight showed through it. It was at first possible to walk in the snow along the S. (left) side ; but the ridge steepened greatly and the state of the snow on the 8. forced the line of ascent to cross on to the ice on the N. slope of the aréte— involving much step-cutting. More rocks then led (at 11.50) to the foot of the final and longest ice aréte, which resembled its pre- decessor, but was even more steep in its upper part—necessitating a traverse on exceptionally hard and steep ice (in which hand-holds had to be cut) towards the foot of the rocks of the final buttress, followed by a steep ascent on the ice along the edge of the rock to the top of the ice aréte. A 15-ft. chimney led from the apex of the ice aréte over the wall forming the first step of the final buttress (13.40). This final buttress (perhaps 500-600 ft. in height) is formed of exceptionally steep and cleanly cut rock, overhanging in places. A possible route which involved a horizontal traverse to the right and an ascent on the N. face of the buttress had been planned in the preceding year from the upper part of the ‘Sentinel route.’ This line was followed, the traverse being made across a slope at first of snow and then of exceptionally steep, clear ice, in which hand- holds had to be cut. This led to a small chimney in a corner with an overhanging cliff above on the left. Four attempts failed to secure a lodgment on the ice-covered shelf at which the chimney terminated ; the buttress forming the true left side of the chimney was turned by cutting round on exceedingly steep ice, eventually giving place to good snow in a broad couloir on its other side. This led up to the foot of a rock gully the direct entry of which was impossible. It was attained by a very difficult 15-ft. chimney on the right, followed by a traverse into the gully. The gully was ascended until barred by bulges of clear ice, when, after a retreat, it was left by a traverse to the right. This traverse led into another couloir of good snow. This long couloir narrowed in its upper part and the snow was in places replaced by ice. It led directly to the summit of the buttress, the finish being up over the rocks on the left (17.55). The upper ice slopes of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur and Mont Blanc terminate in a great vertical ice-wall which is many hundred feet in depth on either side of the final buttress, being greatest on its 8. At the apex of the buttress, however, the final ice slopes end in a tongue of ice perhaps 20-30 ft. in height. This tongue was conveniently creviced and offered little difficulty—only two or three steps having to be cut. It was surmounted at 18.10. A strong

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874 New Expeditions. and bitterly cold wind had been encountered from about 10.30 on, and the final slopes were now ascended in crusted snow to the first crevasse (18.25), in the shelter of which a 15 mins. halt was made. Started again at 18.40, reached the summit ridge near Mont Blanc de Courmayeur at 19.30, and the summit of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur itself at 19.45. The summit-ridge was at once traversed back in the direction of Mont Blanc, the top of which was attained at 20.20, and the Vallot Refuge at 21.00. The halts during the climb totalled 1 hr. 35 mins. The descent was made next day by the ordinary route. This climb is certainly of a higher standard of difficulty than the ‘Sentinel route,’ and the difficulty is almost continuous from the passage of the great couloir until the final sérac wall is surmounted. The rock is exceptionally sound, and the climb is completely free from all objective danger save only during the traverse of the great couloir. This must be taken either early in the morning or late at night (in which case a higher bivouac might be made near the small gendarme at the first severe step). The traverse of the couloir, however, should occupy certainly less than 10 mins.—perhaps only 5 mins.—and the route may therefore be regarded as more free from objective danger (stone or ice fall) than is the ‘Sentinel route’; this latter, however, may be itself regarded as practically free from danger if the branch couloir is crossed sufficiently early in the morning. It is probable that about 2 hrs.’ time was lost on the final buttress before the correct line of ascent was found. In addition to this, the climbing time was certainly delayed by the very heavy loads carried in view of a possible forced retreat if the final slopes could not be attained. Before the climb was undertaken there appeared to be three principal points at which difficulty would be encountered —the traverse of the couloir, the final buttress, and the sérac wall. The traverse of the couloir turned out to present little difficulty ; the final buttress was climbed in a line apparently not exposed to the danger of falling séracs ; the passage of the final sérac wall was comparatively easy. It was seen last year (an exceptionally snowy season) that the final wall would then go, and as it proved feasible during the present season (an exceptionally dry one), it is probable that the upper slopes may be reached from the final buttress in almost any year. As in the case of the ‘ Sentinel route,’ the ‘ Red Sentinel ’ (or the possible higher bivouac, should that be chosen by another party) should be reached late in the evening. If the higher bivouac be chosen, or should the great couloir (now that its passage is known) be crossed considerably earlier in the morning, the ice ridges might be reached while the snow on their S. slopes is still in good condition. This year the traverse from Col Moore to the ‘ Red Sentinel’ was chiefly over rock, save in the case of the second couloir. The ice couloir, which must be passed immediately before the final ascent

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wens nce =| FahoedErswnm Mont Blane de COURMAYEUR and MONT BLANC. (Showing 1927 and 1928 BRENV.A routes.)

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New Expeditions. 875: to the ‘ Red Sentinel,’ was this year a dry rock gully. The great slab, the upper edge of which projected from the snow slopes below the “Red Sentinel’ last year, was now completely exposed. A better bivouac place was levelled at its immediate E. end. The part of the ‘Sentinel route’ between the precipice and the upper sérac wall showed, this year, very much more rock. The S8.W. end of the sérac wall on the ‘Sentinel route’ appeared to be much lower than it was last year. The views from the new route are exceptionally grand. The Brenva face of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, with its great cliffs of ice, is seen during almost the whole ascent, as are also the great couloir and the Brenva face of Mont Blanc on the other side of it. The views are finer than those from the ‘ Sentinel route,’ splendid as are the latter. The day as a whole was almost cloudless and the weather excellent save for the cold wind which came in gusts accompanied by clouds of powdery snow blown off the upper slopes of Mont Blanc. The gusts gave trouble on the upper ice aréte and the ice slope, and they were sufficiently strong to blow either of the climbers off his feet at different times on the final slopes; the cold was very great after the sun had passed off the Brenva face and gloves and clothing were frozen. T. G. B. [The ‘times’ are very slow. The party was much overweighted with a load of 30 lbs. apiece. There appears no reason why a8 second and lightly laden party should not accomplish the expedition in several hours less—as the writer points out. The possibility of this ascent was first pointed out to Mr. Smythe by Mr. T. B. Blakeney in 1926, who specifically indicated the great buttress by which this climb was accomplished. We understand that Messrs. G. W. Young and the late George Mallory examined a route named by them the ‘ Great Buttress.’ There is little doubt that the ‘Great Buttress’ is the same as that accomplished this summer.—Editor.] Explanation of photograph showing routes on the Brenva face of Mont Blanc (the photograph was taken on September 1, 1927, from a point on the S. aréte of the Tour Ronde) : X The ‘ Red Sentinel.’ —..—..— Line of route to ‘ Red Sentinel ’ followed in 1927 and 1928. usta as Line of ascent of Mont Blanc (‘Sentinel route’), September 1-2, 1927. — — — — Line of ascent of Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, August 6-7, 1928. A Col Moore. B Placed on second couloir near deep avalanche run.

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876 New Expeditions. The‘ greatcouloir.’ (Nore.—The level at which it was traversed is probably a little lower than that indicated here.) The first ice aréte. The second and third ice arétes. The fourth ice aréte. Placed on sérac wall above final buttress. Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. Mont Blanc. The final buttress. PAPO teo a Pennines. DEnT BLaNcHE, 4364 m. = 14,318 ft. By the N. aréte. July 20, 1928. Mr. and Mrs. I. A. Richards, with Joseph Georges, le Skieur, and Antoine Georges, his brother. The party left Bricolla at 01.00 and followed the usual route to the Col du Grand Cormier [Col de la Dent Blanche of S. map], 05.45-06.15. Very cold morning. Followed the easy ridge for 2 hrs. to the shoulder, which was turned on the left, a short, steep and firm step putting us on the slabs where the real climb begins. Here the party changed to rubber shoes. Much loose débris and some verglas. The edge of the great roof was followed to the right until, with a slight curve back to the left, the foot of a long well-marked chimney in the steeper upper reach of the slabs can be gained. This chimney is divided into three parts, and a piton, left by the descending party in 1926,} identifies the route and helps in the difficult exit. A number of zigzags, first to the right, then back to the left over débris, then up a grooye to the right in steep, red rocks and behind a detached boulder, led to the sharp notch between the prominent pinnacle (conspicuous from the Bertol hut) on the N. aréte and the base of the overhang (10.20). The sun not yet round the corner and the rocks almost too cold for a climb of this character. Joseph Georges now successively attacked two routes, both proving impossible but only within a few feet of lodgment above the overhang : first, to the right up a chimney in the wall overlooking the great couloir; secondly, up to the left in the fissure under the great overhang. Each of these attempts involved an ascent and descent of some 100 ft. over rocks of the utmost difficulty. There remained but one, apparently hopeless, course: the direct ascent of the ‘ nose’ of the ridge. A small ledge some 10 ft. up is the base of operations: the spike of an axe can be securely jammed so that the head projects horizontally some 2} ft. By standing upon this projection the initial overhang can just be surmounted, although the holds above are few and inadequate. Climbing, of the severest and most unprotected character, in a position of extreme 1 September 9-10, 1926. Monsieur W. Kropf with Marcel Savioz and Jean Genoud of Zinal. Die Alpen, 1927, pp. 347-55 ; A.J. 88, 338.

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‘OWOT |, ZVLAAH A, ., OU} St aulL pury-yo d "MOT ,, SUOWOUD ,, OUF SE PULL yoAD ‘TLYAON OP LSHNO ALNIOd WF AHONWIA LNA JO 0QUE UN ‘ucswely|l es ’ . ~* sa ye ¥ nie cipal M5 : ; M'HM‘O “OVOUd Digitized by Google

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New Expeditions. 877 exposure, continues across a slab to the night and up a holdless groove to the left. When the leader passes out of sight of those below he gains easier terrain. Above, two steep walls lead into the sunlight and to good ledges overlooking the head of the great couloir (13.30). Continuous progress, keeping to the left, E., to avoid loose rock and falling stones, is now possible to the summit (17.00-17.30). The foot of the 8. aréte was attained at 19.15. Variation. By THE N.E. Face anp N. Arérte, August 11, 1928. Miss Maud Cairney, with Théophile and Hilaire Theytaz. DENT BLANCHE FROM THE E. SHOWING THE ‘THEYTAZ’ VARIATION. Bricolla dep. 24.00, Col de la Dent Blanche, 04.00. A rock rib joining the N. aréte is followed till above the steep ice slope resting on the N.E. flank of the said aréte. The party then deflected diagonally to the left, S.E., traversing upwards in the direction of the E. aréte, across smooth and difficult slabs, for some 1800 ft. This part of the route is very exposed. Higher up and to the right, S.W., a faintly marked rocky rib is climbed, where twice the party were compelled to stand on each other’s shoulders. This very hard rib is followed to its junction with the N. aréte at a great con- spicuous tower above the vertical or overhanging part of that aréte. ao N., or main, aréte is then followed, more or less, to the summit, 45. Weather perfect. Rocks bad during the first and last portions of the climb. (Communications from Miss Cairney and Théophile Theytaz.)

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378 New Expeditions. [This expedition must be considered as a dangerous variant of the above-described N. aréte route. It is much exposed to falling stones and is only possible with absolutely dry, or * 1928,’ conditions.] ZINAL-ROTHHORN, 4223 m. = 13,856 ft. By the S.E. aréte and EK. face. July 31,1928. M. E.R. Blanchet, with Kaspar Mooser. The party, after passing the level snow ridge on the ordinary S.E. aréte route (10.00), turned straight up the rock ridge leading to the “Kanzel’ (of Alpes Valatsannes). Having attained the neighbour- hood of a greyish shoulder below the said ‘ Kanzel,’ the party were twice forced to make short but very awkward and exposed traverses on to the E. face, and Mooser could only regain the 8.E. aréte by standing on his companion’s shoulders. From the greyish shoulder (11.30) the ascent lies entirely on the E. face. First a short diagonal descent, followed by a ledge to the N., then about 40 ft. straight up (this took 40 mins., and several wooden wedges had to be fixed in an overhanging crack). Now by a dangerous ledge to the right, N., in the rocky angle, followed by an easy direct climb to the notch close to the summit (13.40). ‘| fae v * i "ee paar Photo, corria-Lckenstein.] ZINAL-ROTHHORN SHOWING M. BLANCHET’S ROUTE. This route is very difficult; it never touches the W. face or N.E. aréte. Some of the great boulders on the K. face are positively tottering.” Kletterschuhen are stated to be obligatory ; the expedition only proved successful at the second attempt. 2 An immense fall of rocks took place on this face on July 21, 1928. A party on the summit at the moment was under the impression that the entire mountain was about to collapse.—-Hdzor.

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Il. ese! HS NY ie my "te. Digitized by Google Photo. E. R. Blanchet. Photo. E. R. Blanchet. Mid-way up N. face of FLETSCHHIORN. Upper ice slopes of N. face of FLETSCHHORN arete, from NW.

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New Expeditions. 379 FLETSCHHORN, 4001 m. = 13,128 ft. By the N. face. July 25, 1928. M.E.R. Blanchet, with Kaspar Mooser and Oskar Supersaxo. From Simplon village (dep. 24.00) by the high road, Rossboden Alp,-Rossboden Glacier, to the foot of the N. face. The face is some 3000 ft. high and consists almost entirely of very steep ice slopes. FLETSCHHORN FROM BELVEDERE SHOWING _M. BLaNcHET’s RovTE. At 06.30 party began the ascent exactly below the summit, by utilizing old avalanche débris. Mounting quickly to an upper bergschrund, delay was caused by an increase in the angle for some 50 ft. Next by a kind of rocky rampart, at first not difficult, but rotten rocks. Short halt at 08.10. The rocks become very rotten and then very difficult. An ice gully is mounted (09.55) at a height of some 3700 m.; this is followed by masses of overhanging séracs in which the party nearly got into a cul-de-sac. At 10.20, at a height of about 3820 m., they forced their way out. At this spot the little rocky pyramid close to the summit is visible overhead. This rock peak is flanked on the right by an ice slope. The party turned slightly to the left, E., over an ice slope of some 40° covered with good snow. Two deep avalanche grooves furrow this slope, down which stones fall from the rock peak ; both must be crossed. The angle increases to 45°, but the N.E. aréte is attained 150 ft. below the summit, just to the left of the rocky peak or pyramid. Then along the aréte to the top (12.00). The expedition is very dangerous from falling stones and séracs. The angle, as far as the rock rampart, is excessive. The last part 18 easy. E. R. B.

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880 New Expeditions. Bernese Oberland. WETTERHORN, 3703 m. = 12,149 ft. By the 8.W. aréte. August 24, 1928. Mr. Samitaro Uramatsu, with Emil Steuri and Samuel Mr. UrnamatTsv’s Route, 1928. Brawand. Left Gleckstein Club hut 03.55, by ordinary route to Hiihnergutz glacier; weather perfect. Glacier crossed to the left side (ascending) of the great red rock face clearly visible from Grindelwald. Lower part covered with ice and considerable time expended in attaining aréte. First big tower traversed by N. slope and gap between that tower and continuation of ridge thus attained.

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New Expeditions. 881 A small crack here exists by which slope above Krinne glacier is reached. Crack steep and exposed, but holds abundant in lower third; the steepest portion, about 180-200 ft., is difficult because of smoothness of rocks, and Steuri, standing on Brawand’sshoulders, Dr. Wizson’s Rovre, 1902. Below A and above D, 1902 and 1928 routes correspond. Aréte between A and B has never been climbed. At C are the difficult step and chimney. (Ridge between B and C is probably accessible from the Krinne side) drove in an iron piton, enabling party to overcome steepest bit after } hr.’s trying work. On regaining ridge, party followed its narrow and interesting crest to a high gendarme taken by a chimney some 130 ft. high in its N. face, rocks very steep and rotten. On attaining top of gendarme difficulties appear finished. Short halt. A beautifully curved short ice ridge, descending some 70 ft., connects the top of the gendarme with the final aréte. After considerable cutting, party followed ridge to the summit, 13.00 hrs. VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 2C

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882 New Expeditions. [Although the Wetterhorn has been climbed repeatedly from the Hiihnergutz glacier, very little appears to be known of the S.W. aréte. On July 5, 1902, Messrs. Claude Wilson, J. H. Wicks and E. H. F. Bradby, with Ulrich Almer and Henri Rey, ascended the mountain by the W. slope of the S.W. aréte, being forced off the commencement of the aréte by iced and rotten rocks. The traverse above the Hiihnergutz glacier took 2 hrs. ; thence they cut straight up the very steep slope, attaining the S.W. aréte at a small gap 300-400 ft. below the top (3 hrs.). The party do not recommend their route (‘ A.J.’ 21, 269, 507-8). The whole of Mr. Uramatsu’s route appears to be new with the exception of the last 300—400 ft.] (a) Canadian Rocky Mountains. 1. Whirlpool Group. Mr. Scott, S. peak, ca. 10,500 ft. First ascent. June 28. Messrs. W. R. Hainsworth, J. G. Hillhouse, M. M. Strumia, J. M. Thorington. From base camp at tongue of Scott glacier, via Scott icefall, to high camp (with packs), 4 hrs. 50 mins. To the S. peak, via S.E. face, 2 hrs. 40 mins. Return to high camp (ca. 7800 ft.) by same route in 1 hr. Mt. ERMATINGER, 10,080 ft. First ascent. June 29. Messrs. W.R. Hainsworth, J. G. Hillhouse, M. M. Strumia, J. M. Thorington. From high camp, via Hooker snowfield, to the Ermatinger-Serenity col at head of S. Alnus glacier. A steep 100-ft. chimney was ascended to the long 8S. mdge, which was then followed to the summit, rope being discarded, 3 hrs. 45 mins. Descent by the E. ndge and N. Hooker glacier in 1 hr. 25 mins. Mr. Scott, N. peak, 10,826 ft. First ascent. June 30. Messrs. W.R. Hainsworth, M.M.Strumia. The S. peak, ascended two days previously, was reached in such bad weather that the party believed it to be the highest point. The error was discovered from Mt. Ermatinger and rectified on the following day by two members of the party. The same route was followed to the S. peak, and the intervening aréte crossed to the higher point: 2 hrs. 50 mins. to S. summit; 1 hr. 12 mins. to N. peak. Return by same route to high camp, 2 hrs. Mr. Evans, 10,460 ft. First ascent. July 1. Messrs. W. R. Hainsworth, J. G. Hillhouse, M. M. Strumia, J. M. Thorington. From high camp, via Hooker icefield and S.E. aréte, 4 hrs. 40 mins., rope being discarded at the first rocks. Descent by S. face, Hooker icefield and Scott glacier to base camp, 5 hrs. 35 mins. 2. Maligne Lake Group. Mr. Cuar.ton, 10,300 ft. First ascent. July 7. Messrs. W. R. Hainsworth, M. M. Strumia. From Maligne Lake shore at foot of peak, by N. face, to Charlton-Unwin col. (10,000 ft.); thence by

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New Expeditwons. | 888 W. snow aréte to summit, 6 hrs. Descent by same route, 2 hrs. 45 mins. Mr. Sampson, 10,000 ft. First ascent. July 9. Messrs. W. R. Hainsworth, M. M. Strumia. From lake shore, by W. face and N.W. ridge, to summit, 5 hrs. 15 mins. Descent, 3 hrs. 15 mins. Mr. Warren, 10,850 ft. First ascent. July 11. Messrs. W. R. Hainsworth, M. M. Strumia. From camp atS. end of Maligne Lake, by N. face (Warren glacier) and E. ridge, 10 hrs. Descent by same route, 4 hrs. 20 mins. THUMB Peak, ca. 9700 ft. First ascent. July 12. Messrs. W. R. Hainsworth, M. M. Strumia. Ascent, 6 hrs. 35 mins. Descent, 2 hrs. Mr. FLorence. First ascent. July 13. Mr. M. M. Strumia. Ascent, 6 hrs. 35 mins. Descent, 3 hrs. 15 mins. Mr. Hawiey. First ascent. July 13. Mr. W. R. Hainsworth. Ascent, 6 hrs. 25 mins. Descent, 3 hrs. 15 mins. Each peak ca. 9500 ft. Ascended from camp at S. end of Maligne Lake by way of the southern snowfield and the col between the two peaks. Seen from the N. end of Maligne Lake, Mt. Florence appears between Mt. Simplon and Thumb Peak, Mt. Hawley lying further E. (b) Purcell Range. Mr. Tosy, 10,537 ft. First traverse. July 12. Messrs. E. Cromwell, J. G. Hillhouse, J. M. Thorington, C. Kain. From camp below Toby moraine, wa Toby glacier, N. aréte and W. face. Ascent, 7 hrs. Descent, by way of 8S. aréte and snowfield, 3 hrs. 45 mins. UnnaMeED Peaks 1-3, ca. 10,000 ft. First ascents. July 13. Messrs. E. Cromwell, J. G. Hillhouse, J. M. Thorington, C. Kain. The peaks lie S.E. of Mt. Toby and form the southern rim of the Toby snowfield. Fromcamp at Toby moraine, Peak 1 was reached, via Toby glacier and N. slopes, 5 hrs. 15 mins. Descent was made by W. rock ridge, whence Peak 2 was reached from 1-2 saddle by way of its northern ridge; 1 hr. between Peaks 1 and 2. Peak 3, lying westward, was reached in 2 hrs. 15 mins., being traversed from KE. to W., with a short stretch of moderately difficult climbing on the E. buttress. Descent to camp, 2 hrs. 45 mins. Mr. Earut Grey, 10,215 ft. First ascent. July 16. Messrs. E. Cromwell, J. G. Hillhouse, J. M. Thorington, C. Kain. From camp at mouth of Pharaoh Creek, via Pharaoh valley and the S. aréte, which was followed closely to the highest point. The mountain is the loftiest point of the range between Pharaoh Creek and Jumbo Fork of Toby Creek. Camp to summit, 8 hrs. 45 mins. Descent, 5 hrs. 10 mins. PHARAOH Peak, ca. 8000 ft. First ascent of E. (highest) summit. July 17. Messrs. E. Cromwell, C. Kain. By the southern slopes and W. face of peak. Difficult climbing in last 50 ft. Ascent, 4 brs.

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884 New Expeditions. Toe CLEAVER, ca. 10,400 ft.; Mr. Jumso, 11,217 ft. First traverse. July 20. Messrs. E. Cromwell, J. G. Hillhouse, J. M. Thorington, C. Kain. From camp in Jumbo Fork of Toby Creek. The Cleaver was ascended by its S. ridge, 4 hrs., the snowfield being crossed (crevasses) to Jumbo-Commander Pass and Mt. Jumbo ascended by its N. face, with considerable step-cutting; 5 hrs. from the Cleaver, with numerous halts due to storm. First descent of icefall from Jumbo-Commander Pass to Lake of the Hanging Glaciers and Horsethief Creek. Total time, 16 hrs. Mt. CoMMANDER, 10,900 ft.; THE CLEAVER, ca. 10,400 ft. Traverse from Lake of the Hanging Glaciers to Jumbo Fork. July 22. Messrs E. Cromwell, C. Kain. The low depression in the N. aréte of Commander was reached tva the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers and the aréte followed across the summit to Jumbo- Commander Pass. The route thence over the Cleaver was the reverse of that described above, descent being made to camp in Jumbo Fork. Total time, 14 hrs. Snow Pass, ca. 9400 ft., between Farnham Creek and Jumbo Fork. First crossing. July 22. Messrs. J. G. Hillhouse, J. M. Thorington. From camp at junction of stream from Lake of the Hanging Glaciers with MHorsethief Creek, wa Horsethief and Farnham Creeks. The snowfield at the head of Farnham Creek was ascended to the depression 8.E. of the Cleaver, whence a snow couloir was descended to camp in Jumbo Fork. Total time, 13 hrs. (c) Rampart Group. Mr. Repovst, 10,200 ft. August 15, 1928. Messrs. J. EK. Johnson and D. L. Busk, with Hans Fuhrer. Mt. Redoubt is situated in the Alberta-British Columbia divide in the Rampart Group, some 20 miles S. of Jasper. Mt. Casemate is just across the divide on the B.C. side. On August 13 an attempt on the peak was made from a bivouac on Lookout Pass (about 8300 ft.) ; this failed owing to fresh snow and iced rocks. We reached the spot marked in the photograph about 3} hrs. from the bivouac. On August 15 a second attempt was made from the main camp at the foot of Lookout Pass (about 6800 ft.), this attempt was successful, From camp, up easy broad buttress between the two snow couloirs coming down from pass, to Lookout Pass, 2 hrs. Thence contouring round 8. face of ridge on appalling scree up to triangular snowpatch, 2 hrs. (Above this we left all but one rucksack and one ice-axe.) Three broad level scree ledges run horizontally across the face of the peak (marked A—B-C in the photo) ; these ledges are separated by belts of extremely steep cliff. From the lower ledge up a steep, moderately difficult chimney, behind a chockstone, up another chimney to the next ledge, cairns top and bottom. Round this ledge (B) to the right, to the very steep icy gully which descends

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‘= 5 > * Photo. D. L. Busk. Mt. CASEMATE from LOOKOUT PASS. Line indicates route from Casemate—Postern Pass (X) reached from the other side. — Re) r OS AS qr Photo. D. L. Busk. REDOUBT GROUP from below BASTION. 1. Redoubt. 4. Paragon. 2. Dungeon. 5. Keystone. 3. Oubliette. X Lookout Pass. (Dungeon and Oubliette as yet unclimbed. |

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New Expeditions. 885 from the summit ridge. Up the (true) right bank on loose rocks and ice to another broad ledge (C) (cairn). Follow this round to left to foot of another chimney almost immediately below summit (cairn). Up this to summit, 3 hrs. from triangular snowpatch ; down in 2 hrs. Snowpatch to Lookout Pass, 14 hrs. Lookout Pass to main camp, 14 hrs. Times given are slightly slower than ours (we moved very fast on easy ground), but constitute average (including halts) for party of three. A party of two would be much better owing to the appalling looseness of the rock. The name ‘ Lookout Pass’ was originally given by Mr. Wates to this col—we adopted it as well; it is not marked as such on the Boundary Survey. Weather: good at first, but snow flurries later. Stonefall must be expected continually in the easy couloirs one crosses on the way to the snowpatch from Lookout, and also in the main gully below the summit ridge. Mt. Redoubt is, strictly speaking, not a first ascent. Last year two mountaineers, Messrs. F. H. Slark and F. Routis, disappeared on that peak (‘ A.J.’ 40, 199), and it was supposed that they had never reached the top, as no cairn was visible. When we actually reached the summit, however, we found their names. On the way up we had passed several rather harrowing traces of the accident, and, from their previously announced plans and various other indications, we believe that they ascended the W. ridge and were trying to descend the S. face when the accident occurred. Our route on the S. face would be very difficult indeed to work out on the descent. We built several cairns, but even so had some difficulty. : Mr. CasemarTE, 10,160 ft. August 23, 1928. Same party. From main camp at Geikie meadows, party packed over to Icefall Lake (4 hrs. very heavy going ; about 5500 ft.). On August 23 from this bivouac the party went up easy scree to the foot of a broad couloir which descends from a large snow patch immediately below the summit (14 hrs.). In order to avoid stone- fall they bore to left (ascending) and went up a narrow couloir which leads to the lowest depression on the ridge between Postern and Casemate. Some 200 ft. below the col they traversed back to the main couloir over easy rocks. Then up main couloir to the foot of the very steep cliffs immediately below the snowpatch: Thence round to the left on a broad scree ledge (crossing several little ridges which descend from the main N.W. ridge) to the foot of steep but easy rocks which lead to the main ridge (2$ hrs.). From here up easy scree ridge, bearing always to left, until the N. ridge is struck high up. By this ridge to summit (2$ hrs.). Total, 64 hrs. up from Icefall Lake—4 hrs. down (including halts). Times are for party of three.

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886 Various Expeditions. The only difficult part of the climb is the final section of the N. ridge, which is steep, very rotten and iced. It might be possible to avoid this by staying more on the W. and S.W. faces, where the rocks seem less steep. Eager explorers who attempt the S.E. mdge, the main backbone of the mountain, should beware of the 100-ft. notch in the ridge which is marked on the photograph between the central peak and the highest point. It looks insignificant from a distance, but would certainly involve a détour. The rest of the ridge looks easy, though narrow, and should be a very pleasant climb. The col between Simon and Casemate is best reached from the W.: it would appear to be 2-3 hrs. above Icefall Lake. Casemate is the central peak of the whole Rampart-Simon group and provides marvellous views. Weather : fine. No small share of the credit for our two ‘firsts’ should go to Joe Weiss, our cook, a native Swiss, now a British subject. Though there was no call for him to do so, he acted as porter for us to our bivouacs, carrying immense loads. He had never climbed, so he stayed down below and cooked enormous meals against our return— the joys of hot food under such circumstances can be understood. To his huge delight, we subsequently took him up a peak, on which he proved a very fair climber. Any other parties going to Jasper should look out for him. Our packer, Harry Mellor (of Harris and Mellor), is also deserving of the highest praise. In that equine country it is rare to find anyone who will walk a hundred yards, let alone ‘pack’ up mountains for you. We can also unreservedly recommend Hans Fuhrer, the guide, both for his climbing and his good-fellowship. e D. L. B. VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS. Dauphiné. D6meE DE NEIcE pes Ecrins (3980 m. = 13,058 ft.) By THE N.W. Face (second ascent). May 27-28,1928. MM. J. Lagarde, B. Favret and G. Faye. Party left La Bérarde at 07.00, thence by usual Col des Ecrins route to the Plateau de Bonnepierre (see ‘ A.J.’ 27, 435-7 and especially M. Piaget’s photograph facing 435). Weather perfect and the great precipitous couloir in Dome de Neige’s N.W. face in obviously fine snowy condition. Bergschrund crossed at 11.00, angle of couloir very steep—as steep as N. face of Pic sans Nom (Dauphiné)—but no ice. Straight up middle of deep-cut

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Various Expeditions. 887 couloir, no sun till late afternoon, but stones fall occasionally.* Uppermost snow attained between 14.30 and 15.00, where party finds itself at base of a great conspicuous tower planted in the centre of the wall or face. Up narrow gullies and snowy rock-ramparts and ‘ Mayer’ route soon afterwards attained to the left. Climb now becomes very precipitous; red rotten rocks with little hold. Last 70 ft. below main ridge very difficult and exposed. No one can be secured here until leader reaches crest. Place very similar to ‘Coste Rouge’ rib of Ailefroide, Central Summit (‘ A.J.’ 88, 118-21). First up a vertical crack (ice-axe hold) to an overhang, as this impossibly dangerous, progress is by a very difficult slab traverse. As return impossible, leader obliged to force his way upwards, which, in boots, proved excessively hard. Main ridge finally attained (3 hrs. for last 70 ft.). Bivouac on ridge at 21.00, ca. 3900 m. Summit at 06.00, follow- ing day. Descent by ordinary route to Col des Ecrins and La Bérarde. The expedition is more difficult and far more dangerous than that of the Ailefroide, Central Summit, by its N. face, and is much less interesting. Kletterschuhen would be useful, cf. ‘ A.J.’ 27, 437. (Communicated.) [It is understood that the party left La Bérarde, at the late hour of 07.00, with the intention of merely ascending the ordinary route ; finding the conditions so favourable, they determined to attempt the N.W. face forthwith.—Edtor.] Mont Blanc Group. Mont BrovitiarpD, 4053 m. = 13,298 ft. July 5, 1928. Mr. Eustace Thomas with Joseph Knubel. Left Gamba Hut at 05.00. A skilful route was made by Knubel among the numerous crevasses of the Brouillard glacier and that glacier was ascended to the very highest useful point so that the couloir descending from the Col Emile Rey was entered directly under the great rock wall bounding it on the N. side. The ascent was made close to this wall the whole way up to the Col. The snow was always steep, and in places none too safe. No cutting was necessary, however. There appeared to be risk at times of falling stones. After reaching the Col the expedition was continued to the summit of Mont Brouillard, this being reached in 4 hrs. 50 mins. from the Gamba Hut. The return was made by the same route. It is interesting to note that Mr. R. L. M. Underhill, with Franz Biner, attempted to follow the same route about July 27, with the intention of continuing over Pic Luigi Amedeo. They found it then, however, too dangerous, and did not complete the expedition. 1 The expedition was very well timed ; the great couloir, except early in the season, is little else than a stone-shoot.—Editor.

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888 Various Expeditions. [This is the second ascent of the Col Emile Rey from the E. and the first descent of that slope. In the first ascent, the party, Signori G. F. and G. B. Gugliermina and Natale Schiavi with Nicola Motta, August 23-26, 1899, were obliged, the Gamba Hut not being in existence then, to bivouac three times en route from Courmayeur to the col. A fourth bivouac became necessary between the W. foot of the Col Emile Rey and the Quintino Sella Hut. Bolletino, 1902, pp. 229-44. Kurz, 1927, pp. 336-7.] AIGUILLE BLANCHE DE PETERET, 4109 m. = 13,482 ft. July 9, 1928. Mr. Eustace Thomas with Joseph Knubel and Lucien Proment. Left the Gamba Hut at 02.15. Passed below the Aiguille Joseph Croux and crossed Fresnay Glacier to couloir leading to Bréche des Dames Anglaises. Mist over all the upper part of the route. Passed over summit of Aiguille Blanche, but on descending to the Col de Pétéret it was considered unsafe to con- tinue by the Pétéret aréte. Went up accordingly to the Col Eccles and crossed it. The upper part of the Brouillard Glacier was hard ice, and the descent was facilitated by two long rappels, using out- crops of rock for the rope. Knubel seemed to find instinctively from above the best point to cross the bad bergschrund ; later the tracks made in the ascent to the Col Emile Rey (see ante) were used as far as possible; but there was now more ice and cutting was necessary at times. The difficulty of steering a good course and negotiating crevasses when darkness descended was considerable, the original tracks being soon lost; but the Hut was reached at 00.15. [This is the first traverse of the Aiguille Blanche without a bivouac, and, apparently, the first time that the Col Eccles has been crossed from the Fresnay to the Brouillard Glacier.] Mont Buanc, 4810 m. = 15,782 ft. By (S.) BRoUILLARD ARETE. July 13, 1928. Mr. Eustace Thomas with Joseph Knubel and Lucien Proment. Left Quintino Sella Hut at 03.15 (start delayed through rain and doubtful conditions). Went up through icefall of Glacier du Mont Blanc, and then descended to foot of couloir leading to Col Emile Rey. Ascent of this rather wearisome, but not dangerous. Descended on other side of Col to base of chimney, 80 far the only route up the wall. Chimney clear of ice, but one avalanche of stones passed over our heads while in it. No diffi- culties after one slab, but always considerable danger from falling stones. Parts of the aréte required rather more than ‘ ordinary’ scrambling. Passed over Pic Luigi Amedeo and reached summit of Mont Blanc at 15.15—just 12 hours from the hut. Descended to Vallot Refuge and remained the night, as snowfall, lightning and deep mist came on. Descended the next day via the Dome Hut to Courmayeur.

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Various Expeditions. 889 Mont Branc, 4810 m. = 15,782 ft., By (S.E.) PETERET ARETE. July 19, 1928. Messrs. R. L. M. Underhill and Eustace Thomas, with Joseph Knubel and Franz Biner. Left Gamba Hut at 01.00 and followed same route as on July 9. The Fresnay Glacier was, however, much more diffi- cult, and the couloir to the Bréche des Dames Anglaises was hard ice in the steep upper half. Ascent made in leisurely fashion, as undesirable to be on final aréte too early. Summit of Aig. Blanche reached in mist at approximately 12.00, and the Col de Pétéret at about 12.30. (From here Proment and Clavel sent back to Gamba Hut by Col Eccles. They were instructed not to follow the route of July 9, but to descend to the Col du Fresnay and thence gain the Gamba Hut. It is believed that they arrived about 22.00.) The usual face route to the bivouac place and the snow aréte was then followed by the main party, and continued to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, reached at 18.15. No cutting was necessary, but the final portion was heavy going. Summit of Mont Blanc was reached at 19.00, and the Vallot Hut about 19.30, where the night was spent. Descent next day via Dome Hut to Courmayeur. It had long been planned to attempt the whole course without a bivouac, but for safety bivouac matériel was taken and Lucien Proment and Clavel were with us as porters. [This appears to be the second time that Mont Blanc has been attained by this route, without a bivouac. On July 18, 1928, Monsieur L. Brincard with Armand Charlet took 16 hrs., including halts, from the Gamba hut to the Vallot.] Mont Bianc, 4810 m. = 15,782 ft., By BRENVA ARETE. July 23, 1928. Messrs. R. L. M. Underhill and Eustace Thomas, with Joseph Knubel and Franz Biner. Left Torino Hut at 02.00. Rather bad course steered and some time lost to foot of Tour Ronde. Ascended by Eastern Col de la Tour Ronde. Ascent of Brenva aréte via Col Moore. No difficulties till just below ice wall, whence prolonged cutting in steep, hard ice led to foot of wall, and a short traverse brought us to an easy route over it. Several impressive schrunds followed (leader dropped through snow bridge into one). Col was reached at 11.30. After rest and meal, Thomas and Underhill left at 12.35 and went to top of Mont Blanc (13.30), and then returning to col, the whole party descended wa the Corridor route to the Grds. Mulets, preparatory to passing again over Mont Blanc for descent of Innominata aréte. Mont Buanc, 4810 m. = 15,782 ft., By THE 8S. Face (Variation of and descent of Innominata ridge.) July 25,1928. Messrs. R. L. M. Underhill and Eustace Thomas, with Joseph Knubel and Franz Biner. Left Grds. Mulets 02.00. Reached Vallot Refuge 05.00. Intensely cold wind, so remained } hr. till sun rose. Mont Blanc at 06.45. Passed on to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, and continued

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890 Various Expeditions. along the Broutllard aréte towards the place where the Innominata ridge joins it at right angles. The Innominata ridge, although so strongly marked below the Col Eccles, is very steep above this gap, and becomes more in the nature of a buttress on the S.E. face of Mont Blanc, separated from other buttresses by relatively shallow couloirs. The Brouillard aréte was left at 08.00 at a point some hundreds of yards to the N. of the true Innominata ridge. The descent at first was from one small outcrop of rock to another, with steep snow, almost ice, in between. This presently developed into a very definite and very steep buttress separated from the Innominata ridge on the one side, and from another similar one on the opposite side, by well-marked couloirs. Descent required care, but there was no particular difficulty. At 11.00 an aneroid showed 4400 m., and the view of the route ahead seemed reassuring. Shortly after, however, the difficulties increased. The couloir was presently crossed over ice, at a point where the ice had considerably narrowed, using a rocky islet as an intermediate stage; and a way made on to the true Innominata ridge. Difficulty was soon experienced, and some time was lost in finding a route; but a way was made eventually down into the couloir on the other side, the true ridge, however, being very soon after recovered. This was afterwards fairly closely adhered to and was generally rock, with one or two sections of steep and rotten snow aréte. Two rappels were used to save time and the Col Eccles (about 4000 m.) was finally reached about 16.00. This was traversed and a way forced over Pic Eccles. The upper part of the Brouillard glacier was very icy, and after some consultation a way was found to the Col de Fresnay, keeping well to the left bank of the glacier, in fact practically along the Innominata ridge itself. Thenceforward innumerable bergschrunds and crevasses were encountered, but an extremely skilful line was made by Joseph Knubel, so that the Gamba Hut was reached in very rapid time under such conditions, at 18.40. (This is the first descent of the S. face of Mont Blanc by the Innominata ridge or buttress, and the route is a variation of that of the first party, August 19-20, 1919, Messrs. 8. L. Courtauld and E. G. Oliver with Adolf Aufdenblatten, Henri and Adolphe Rey, ‘A.J.’ 33, 129-31, illustrated, where the party state that ‘ the route could also be used for a descent.’ For other references to this route or its neighbourhood, see ‘ A.J.’ 8, 409-19 ; 34, 117-33 ; 35, 87-91 and especially the fine illustration facing 90.] AIGUILLES DU DIABLE,? 4109 m. = 13,478 ft., B.I.K., traverse to Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4249 m. = 13,941 ft. Aug. 4, 1928. Miss Miriam O'Brien and Mr. R.L. M. Underhill with Armand Charlet and Georges Cachat. Left Torino Hut at 01.00 in doubtful weather. Col 2 See A.J. 37, 361-2; 388, 309.

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Various Expeditions. 891 du Diable—bergschrund awkward—04.15. Corne du Diable, 05.15. Pointe Chaubert 06.10. Thence descent (new) to the N.—3 rappels to the gap. Halt from 06.40-07.15. Pointe Médiane (new route) 08.45; very high wind. Descent to the N.W., a very awkward traverse to attain gap between Pointes Médiane and Carmen, 09.45. Pointe Carmen by E. aréte (new) and descent followed by ascent of l’Isolée, 11.30. Snow and high wind. Mont Blanc du Tacul at 13.50 hrs. Storm; party descended from summit rapidly, jumping two bergschrunds and one wide crevasse. Col du Midi 14.30. Requin Hut 16.30, Montenvers 19.00. * This is the first traverse of all the Aiguilles du Diable and also the first (combined) ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul by the S.E. aréte. A very fine but extremely difficult expedition. ‘‘ Times ” are fast. Conditions wonderfully good, the couloir leading to Col du Diable dry but dangerous from falling stones. The weather was threatening all day.’—(Letter from Armand Charlet to M. Blanchet dated October 9, 1928, two months after his accident.) AIGUILLE VERTE, 4127 m. = 13,541 ft., By S.W. (MoINE) AR&TE, attained from the Charpoua Glacier. July 20, 1928. Messrs. F. S. Smythe and T. Graham Brown. Left Charpoua hut, 03.30. Ascended couloir to 8.W. of Cardinal and traversed below Cardinal on Couvercle side, eventually joining the ‘Mummery’ route. The lower towers were traversed in the orthodox manner ; but the highest (pointed) gendarme was turned by a difficult traverse on the Charpoua side. This traverse, together with the hard ice met lower on the climb, occasioned delay and the ridge beyond the pointed gendarme was reached at 14.00. The summit was reached at 16.00 and the ridge was descended (partly in mist) by the line of ascent ; the pointed gendarme, however, being turned on the Couvercle side. At 21.20 it was decided to bivouac (sleep- ing sacks having been carried) a little above the point where the “Mummery ’ route joins the ridge. The bivouac was left next morning at 06.00 and the descent completed by the line of ascent. The ‘ times,’ owing to various reasons, were exceedingly slow and there should, of course, be no necessity for a bivouac. Pennines. Pointe BEAuMONT (Dent de Fenestrale), 2582 m. = 8472 ft., S. map (Finhaut district). By the E. face taken in the descent. October 6, 1928. Baroness Ch. de t’ Serclaes and M. E. R. Blanchet, with Kaspar Mooser. (This face can only be accom- plished by means of successive rappels.) From the E. peak, close to and but a few feet lower than the summit, descend by a 10-ft. rappel of which the last 45 ft. is over a slight overhang. This is followed by a small platform. Next comes a second rappel of 50 ft.—the overhang is greater than in the first step, but the feet still touch the rock. This is succeeded by another

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892 Various Expeditions. little platform. Now a rappel of some 130 ft., of which more than 90 ft. is completely in space, the feet are quite clear of the rock and the body revolves round and round. Next follows the descent of a short rocky spur to a boss, whence a last rappel brought the party over an inclined slab to the foot of the face. The spare rope should measure at least 80 m. [ = 260 WEISSHORN, 4512 m. = 14,804 ft., By N. ar&TE, over the Bieshorn, with descent By S.W. ARETE, or Schalligrat. (? First combination.) August 24, 1928. Messrs. Alfred Ziircher and T. Graham Brown, with Joseph Knubel and Alexander Graven. Left Topali hut, 01.45. Summit of Bieshorn, 07.37. Summit of Weisshorn, 13.25. (With halts of 2 hrs. 50 mins. in all.) Started again at 14.15 and descended Schalligrat to between the first and second towers, where a direct descent of the S. face was followed by a traverse back to the aréte. The aréte was followed to a point about one-third of the way down from the summit to the Schallijoch. At this point a short traverse was made to E. and then a long direct descent of the S. face was followed by another longer traverse to E. This traverse terminated at a fairly well-marked rib which was descended (with one long traverse first to W. and then back to E.) to the foot, where a halt was made for 20 mins. The bergschrund immediately below this ridge was passed at 17.45—3} hrs. after leaving the summit. The Weisshorn hut was reached at 20.21, after further rests amounting to 17 mins. The total time of the climb was 18 hrs. 36 mins. ; halts totalling 4 hrs. 17 mins., and net climbing time 14 hrs. 19 mins. Weather conditions were good—overclouded, with a slight W. wind. Rather warm, save on actual summit. A second party, Mr. Versluys, with Heinrich Pollinger and J. M. Julen, climbed the Weisshorn by the N. aréte on the same day— . descending by the E. aréte. Dent BLANcHE, 4364 m. = 14,318 ft., By E. AR&TE, attained from Col de Zinal. July 24, 1928. Mr. C. A. Elliott, with Franz Lochmatter. Left Schénbiihl Hut, 01.30. Arrived bergschrund, 03.15. Waited 15-20 mins. for light. Col de Zinal, 04.30. Junc- tion with Viereselsgrat,05.50. Halt,06.00-06.25. Summit,07.15 a.m. The ridge was in admirable condition. There were no corniches at all and practically no ice. There was little snow on the ridge and what there was was good. It was typical of the season that the most dubious passage on the expedition was the crossing of the bergschrund which had to be accomplished at a spot where stones were falling even before dawn. The first steep rise in the ridge above the Col de Zinal was passed by traversing about 150 ft. to the right (N.E.) and climbing a steep and rotten chimney. The Red Tower which from a distance looks so formidable was easily turned by débris-covered ledges on the left, and all the other steps

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Various Expeditions. 898 on the ridge up to the junction with the Viereselsgrat were either climbed direct or turned on the left (S). Franz Lochmatter had climbed the Viereselsgrat from the Mountet a few days before and he was of opinion that the route we followed was the longer but easier. [We understand that the party had returned to the Schénbihl Hut by 11.15 !] BREITHORN, 4171 m. = 13,685 ft., By E. ARETE, from Schwarzthor. July 18,1928: Mr.C. A. Elliott, with Rafael and Xaver Lochmatter. Left Bétemps, 01.10. Schwarzthor, 05.40. Turned therocks above the Schwarzthor by traversing to the S. and ascending steep slopes of snow with a little ice. Reached summit ridge of Breithorn just to the N.W. of point 4089 m. at 07.15. Halt, 07.15-07.40. Point 4148 m., 09.00. Top, 11.45-12.25. Gandegg, 14.20. The summit ridge provided a most attractive climb. It was at times very narrow; generally it consisted of snow, sometimes corniched ; occasionally it consisted of ice, and included a steep section of rough firm rock. It is difficult to understand why this expedition is not undertaken more often; there are few climbs in the district which afford such a delightful combination of snow, ice, and rock. It is long, but if the conditions are bad or if the weather breaks, a descent can be made at more than one place on to the Verra glacier. C. A. E. [It is interesting to note that the ‘times’ of this very strong party in a very icy season are nearly identical with those of a party in August 1911—an almost equally fine but far more snowy season. —Editor.] JAGERHORN, 3975 m. = 13,042 ft. July 31, 1928. Messrs. C. F. Meade and E. L. Strutt, with Pierre Blanc. From the Bétemps Club hut (dep. 03.45) va the usual route for Dufourspitze as far as Auf’m Felsen, then bearing N. to gap E. of point 3268 m. (party, following senior member’s advice, went too high and should have made for a cairn on rock ridge W. of point 3268 m.). Steep descent by ice slope and rocks to surface of Gorner Glacier, then by gentle slopes under Nord End to Jagerjoch (short halt under W. face of Jagerhorn). From Jagerjoch over snow and rock S. aréte to a point with cairn. This appearing 3-4 ft. lower than the N. point, party descended into a gap some 60 ft. deep. Thence aréte rises like a cliff. This cannot be turned either to E. or W., and, by a human pyramid, leader was able to obtain some handhold, forcing his way, slightly to the right (E.), up and over the step. He and second man reached summit in a few minutes more, 09.50; the base of the pyramid, unwilling to dangle in space, remained in statu quo ante. Descent by same route and over Upper Gorner and Findelen Glaciers—very long—to Griinsee and Riffelalp (many halts), 17.30. Weather perfect but cold.

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894 Various Expeditions. This is an expedition very seldom accomplished. Attention is drawn to it here because in Walliser Alpen, iia, pp. 155-7, several inaccuracies occur. The summit appears accessible—in 1928—only by above route. The statement that the ‘summit is accessible from the Gorner Glacier over snow, from W. or S., or by rocks from the N., in a quarter of an hour’ is extremely misleading. The peak was climbed by one of the members of the above party, in August 1911, by its W.S.W. slope in 14 hrs.; the slopes—snowy in 1911— are steep and the short but steep upper rock wall rotten. It would be hard to knock 10 minutes off the time. In 1928, from this side, the peak resembled a rocky cone garnished with ice, and, if acces- sible at all, represented at least 3 hrs.’ hard work. The Club Fuhrer goes on to state that ‘from the E. is the most difficult and interest- ing way ; the route is practically identical with that of the Jagerjoch, except that in the last hour, instead of bearing to the left, you must get right out (gerade aus) on to rocks and, finally, a steep snow ridge leading straight to the highest point.’ The ‘ highest point’ falls in vertical cliffs to the E.; there is nothing resembling a snow ridge within 800 ft. of the top. The proper route from the E. is that leading to the Jagerjoch and thence by the 8S. aréte, as above, to the top. The Club Fihrer is further in error in stating that the gap between the cairned point and the summit is only 5 m. deep. ; it is at least 60 ft. (18 m.). The Club Ftihrer is correct in stating that ‘ the highest point appears to lie at the N. extremity of the ridge.’ The explanation lies in the fact that the ‘summit’ reached by most of the exceedingly few parties is probably the S. (cairned and be-bottled) point. On the true (N.) summit, 1928, there were two superimposed stones and nothing more. The expedition commands near views of the grandest description, far superior to those afforded by the Cima di Jazzi, for instance. Monte Rosa (Dufoursprtze), 4638 m. = 15,217 ft., By 8. Face. August 6, 1928. Colonel E. L. Strutt, with Pierre Blanc. From Riffelalp (dep. 00.40), Bétemps Club hut, pass 03.10, by Lysjoch route to upper slopes of Grenz Glacier (about ¢ of ‘ Zumsfeinspitze,’ S. map), short halt. Then due N., slopes very icy, towards base of marked rock-rib, so-called Crestone Rey, leading straight to summit of Dufourspitze. Bergschrund (awkward) crossed, then 50 ice steps to rib, whence straight up steep, very firm rocks to summit, 10.55. Descent (many halts) by ordinary route to Riffelalp, 17.30. Weather perfect but very cold N. wind. ‘ Times,’ fast to berg- schrund, then slow. No excuse 1s offered for mentioning a route which, 30 years ago, was very frequently made. It appears to have dropped into com- plete disuse, the (numberless) ancient boot-scratches being now hardly visible. It is unquestionably the best route up the

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Various Expeditions: 895 Dufourspitze, providing magnificent ice scenery and a warm, sheltered climb up rocks surpassing in firmness any in the Zermatt district. From Riffelalp expedition is long, but anything appears preferable to a night in the Bétemps hut. (Cf. excellent descrip- tion and illustrations, Walliser Alpen, iiia. pp. 99-103.) NADELHORN, 4334 m. = 14,220 ft., By THE N. Face. August 11, 1928. M. E. R. Blanchet with Kaspar Mooser left Bordier Club hut at 05.20, attaining the base of the N. face at 07.30. The summit of the Nadelhorn was reached at 12.00; under our con- ditions the expedition is an easy one. The difference between our route and that of Dr. O. K. Williamson, with Daniel Maquignaz and Heinrich Fux, August 2, 1909, is that Williamson commenced on the N.E. aréte of the Nadelhorn before taking to the N. face, whereas we commenced at the base of the said face. Both parties attained the N.W. aréte of the Nadelhorn, ours at a spot some 3 mins. from the summit, Williamson nearer the Stecknadelhorn. E. R.B. WEIssMIEs, 4031 m. = 13,226 ft., By THE N. ARETE, attained from the E., taken in the descent. July 23, 1928. M. E. R. Blanchet se BES sani ee. E. Facr or WEISSMIES. —— is route taken by M. Blanchet’s party. XXX is the proper route. with Kaspar Mooser and Oskar Supersaxo. From the summit (dep. 11.00) descend the N. aréte to a height of about 3850 m. 3 A.J. 24, 681.

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896 Varwus Hapeditions. (} hr.). Leave the aréte and take a very long rocky rib leading straight downwards—2 cairns were constructed one at about 3830 m. and the other at about 3480 m. From about 3500 m. the broken rocky rib is bounded on its N. by the Hohlentrift Glacier, very steep in its upper slopes. At a height of about 3360 m. (14 hrs.), the party abandoned the rib and took to the glacier. This latter is interrupted by a vertical ‘ hot-plate.’; it is turned by an ice slope to the N., some 300 ft. long at an angle of 50°, followed by the bergschrund. Here the glacier becomes less steep but is much crevassed. It is traversed to the N. and the descent continues along the rocks at the foot of the Laquinhorn to the point 2764 m., S. map (44 hrs.). Simplon village was attained by the Hohsaas. Expedition was made with a view to the possible construction of a Club hut in the Laquinthal. A safe and easy route from this side had therefore to be prospected. The route described above had been studied previously by Supersaxo; it fulfils both conditions, but owing to fog we left the rib far too soon and should have con- tinued along it to the surface of the Hohlentrift Glacier—all this was seen on the fog clearing. On August 16, 1919, Herr P. Escher with Théodule Biner and Ambrose Andermatten left the N. aréte of the Weissmies at the same spot as ourselves, but, instead of taking the direct rib, traversed the face diagonally, getting into dangerous couloirs. They only attained the glacier below the Laguinjoch by means of - a rappel, E. R. B. Bernese Oberland. LAUTERBRUNNEN BREITHORN, 3779 m. = 12,398 ft., By THE S. ARETE. August 9, 1928. Mr. and Mrs. G. W. Murray, with Alfred Supersaxo. On July 25, 1896, Mr. H. V. Reade with Theodor and Johann Kalbermatten ascended this aréte as far as the Klein Breithorn in a search for two climbers, Messrs. Benecke and Cohen, lost the year before.4 Theodor Kalbermatten is still guiding, and, meeting us on the Bietschhorn on August 7, suggested we should complete his aréte by traversing from the Klein Breithorn to the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn itself. Two days later, we left Fafler Alp at 02.10, and, just 5 hours later, found ourselves on the aréte between the Burstspitzen and the Breithorn at a well-marked notch just N. of two very ragged gendarmes. For the next 40 mins. we progressed by ‘ walking’ rather than climbing, but after the first easy gendarme, the ridge steepened, and we avoided the difficulties, as Mr. Reade had done, by passing to the left. Returning to the aréte, we were on the Feenkindlspitze at 09.20, and halted there for } hour to let the mist clear. Thence over two exciting gen- darmes, we reached the Klein Breithorn. So far we had followed 4 A.J. 18, 249.

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Photo. O. It. Williamson. CAITHICIN: from the VW.

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Various Expeditions. 897 Mr. Reade’s route, the rest was new. The descent from the left shoulder of the Klein Breithorn to the depression between it and the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn was at first down an icy chimney, dangerous from loose stones. It was not difficult to imagine an accident happening to our predecessors here. Lower down a doubled rope had to be used: this step was made shorter and more amusing by kicking off with one’s feet from the face of the gendarme and swinging across to a large rock. On reaching the depression, we climbed over steep snow and easy rocks to the foot of the final ice-cap of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn. Thence, to save step-cutting, we traversed to the left and made use of the steps cut by parties coming up the usual way by the W. aréte. The summit was attained at 13.00; and after nearly an hour’s rest, we descended by the usual way. The Wetterliicke was reached at 15.20, and Fafler Alp at 18.15. We thought it a fine expedition. G. W. M. Drakensberg, Natal. CaTHKIN PEAK, about 10,500 ft. THE following is a brief record of successful ascents of this striking summit, which appears to be the most difficult of the peaks of the Drakensberg which have been ascended. It was climbed under the exceptionally favourable conditions obtaining in July 1928 by three parties on the occasion of the annual camp of the Natal Mountain Club. Previously there had been only two successful ascents. First Ascent, September 12, 1912. G. T. Amphlett, W. C. West, Father Kelly and T. Casement, with two native ‘ boys,’ by gully on 8.E. flank ; started from camp in Monk’s Ravine 07.30, summit 14.30, descent 5 hrs. Second Ascent. G. Londt, with ‘boy’ Mesaga, July 1921, slept in gully at height of fully 10,000 ft. The same route taken as on first ascent. No times given. Third Ascent, July 11, 1928. Miss I. D. Cochar-Hall, Messrs. W. E. Marriott,5 G. M. J. Sweeney, and R. R. Butcher. Ascent by variation of route followed on first two ascents by a rock wall, perhaps 15 or 20 ft. high, about 20 yds. to the true left of the chimney by which the final wall was ascended by the first two parties (in this chimney our 1927 attempt ended). Left camp in Hlwazeni valley at 09.00, summit 15.00. Fourth Ascent, July 14, 1928. Mr. and Mrs. H. G. Botha-Reid, Misses U. J. Gale and M. Geekie, and ‘ Billy’ Williams, L. B. Ripley, E. Marriott and O. K. Williamson. It may be noted that 5 Mr. Marriott—starting from the main camp low down and to the E. of the mountain—by a long traverse around its base joined the others at the foot of the actual climb. VQL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 2D

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898 Alpine Notes. up to the level of the variation effected first by the party on July 11 the ascent was as easy, owing to the fact that the mountain was apparently quite unusually free from snow and ice, as it had been difficult on the occasion of the attempt by Travers-Jackson and myself on the previous year.® From that point to the summit, however, the ascent was rendered exceedingly trying owing to the fact that there was an excessively cold and violent intermittent wind. Ascent by the same route as that followed on the third ascent. Left camp in Hlwazeni valley 06.40, summit 13.00. Fifth Ascent, July 17, 1928. Misses E. Grundy and J. Simkin, Messrs. H. A. Eastman, H. A. Liddle, J. L. Simkin, and E. J. H. Dale. Ascent by same route as that followed on third and fourth ascents. Left camp in same valley at 07.15, summit 14.00. O. K. WILLIAMSON. ALPINE NOTES. Date of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY : Election. Monier-Williams, M. F. : : : : . 1873 Carfrae, J. A. . ; : é : . 1874 Wherry, G.E. . : ; . 1893 Kennedy, Sir Alexander B. W. ; ; . 1895 Montague, C. E. : : . 1906 Puiseux, Pierre. (Hon. Member) . : . 1918 Regaud, F. (Hon. Member) . ; . 1924 ‘THE CLOSING OF THE ITALIAN ALPs.’—We regret to be unable to report any modification in the lamentable—and vexatious— regulations enforced by the Italian Government last year. We have received no further communication from the Club Alpino Italiano. The Foreign Office! has, however, courteously supplied the Club with a list of the frontier passes still unclosed. It has not been considered necessary to print this list in the JOURNAL, since all these passes are, without exception, of the railway and carriage variety. Members can see the list at the Alpine Club. For the present the Italian Alps must be considered—like Tibet —a forbidden land for mountaineers. MonuMEnT TO JosepH PeETiIGAx. In August last, H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi unveiled a monument which has been erected at Courmayeur to the memory of Joseph Petigax, who accompanied the Duke in his Polar attempt and also acted as his leading guide in the successful expedition to Mount St. Elias in Alaska, to the § A.J. 39, 327-8. 1 Downing Street.

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Alpine Notes. 899 Karakoram and to Ruwenzori. Among the subscribers was the Council of the RoyaL GEoGRapHicaL Society which gladly took advantage of the opportunity to put on record its appreciation of the services rendered to mountain exploration in remote regions by Alpine Guides in the person of the most travelled of their number. A telegram has been received by Mr. Freshfield from the Duke of the Abruzzi conveying his thanks for the Society’s ‘kind participa- tion on the occasion of the celebration to the honour of the guide Petigax.’ Mr. Freshfield has also received a letter from the widow and family of Joseph Petigax expressing warmly their appreciation of the honour done to their late relative. The IratrAN EXPEDITION TO THE KaARAKORAM.—The Rivista Mensile publishes the names of the following mountaineers who will take part in the attempt on K? next year. H.R.H. the Duke of Spoleto (leader), Commander Mario Cuga (2nd in command), Signori Umberto Balestreri (in charge of the climbing party), Lt.-Colonel Gino Allegri (Medical Officer), G. Chiardola, G. Polvara, V. Ponti, A. Desio, L. Fenaroli, R. Margaria, and QO. Olivo. Four Courmayeur guides, including the two sons of Henri Rey and Evaristo Croux, will accompany the party. Special permission has been granted to the party by His Majesty’s Government; while the Himalayan Club, which has elected the Duke of Spoleto and Commander Cuga members, is assisting in every way. The late Mr. ARNOLD Mumm.—Mr. Willink writes: ‘ The excellent “A.J.” In Memoriam is not quite fully correct about his legal dates. Mumm was first admitted, in October 1883, at the Inner Temple, then transferred in February 1886 to Lincoln’s Inn and there called to the Bar in Trinity Term, 1886. He read in the chambers of Mr. C. Ashworth James. ‘I have not been able to ascertain the dates of his joining and leaving the Inns of Court Rifle Volunteers (I.C.R.V.), but I know that he was in E Company for several years. The last few years of his service with the Corps was in their Mounted Infantry.’ RoyaL GEOGRAPHICAL SociETy awards. His Majesty the King has approved of the bestowal of the Founder’s Medal on Dr. T. G. Longstaff for his discovery of the Siachen Glacier and long-continued geographical work in the Himalaya. The Murchison Grant has been awarded to Captain C. J. Morris for his recent journey in Hunza. Dr. Longstaff has recently returned from a biological journey to GREENLAND. We understand that the results were very satisfactory, and that the party, under Dr. Longstaff’s tuition, ate and enjoyed -sea-gulls !

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400 Alpine Notes. HEREDITARY MounTAINEERS.—Master Julian Amery, aged 9, son of the Rt. Hon. L. C. M. 8. Amery, M.P., and Mrs. Amery, accom- panied by his father, made in the month of August last the ascents of Pizzi Gravasalvas and Corvatsch, Monte Forno and the traverse of Piz Materdell. ‘ He is a very keen and ambitious climber.’ The Misses Antonia and Clodagh Meade, aged 13 and 11 respectively, daughters of Mr. Charles and Lady Aileen Meade, accomplished the following expeditions: Wellenkuppe, Breithorn,? Stockhorn, Hohthialigrat (including Miss Flavia Meade, aged 7) and several ascents of the Riffelhorn. The old graveyard at Chamonix has been converted into a public Garden, but we are glad to learn that the fine Iona cross erected to the memory of Francois Ditvouassoup—the first Alpine guide to serve as an explorer—by some of his English friends, will be left in its present position beside the church door and that the Local Council is prepared to undertake its upkeep. A propos of a recent publication dealing with Snow Crart in winter, a correspondent writes: ‘I was talking to Pierre Blanc the other day and he remarked that (old) Christian Almer was a great user of raquettes, which require great knowledge of snow conditions and that in his own (Pierre’s) case he feels pretty con- fident that the older generation of men, like his own father (Blanc “le Greffier ’’) for instance, had a much better knowledge of winter snow than the present race. Pierre Blanc feels pretty sure that his father knew more than he does, since he used up to the age of 60 to hunt incessantly the whole winter through. .. .’ An interesting bit of information, especially from the still young and active Pierre Blanc, famous for his mountain ski-ing powers, and who hunts ‘ the whole winter through.’ Dedication and Opening of the Reisskofel Hut erected in memory of the late E. T. Compron.—The erection of this hut was referred to in ‘A.J.’ 39, 153, but it was only on August 12 of this year that it was formally opened. The Austrian (Greifenburg) Alpine Club organized a ‘ Fest’ for the occasion, and some 260 members and friends were present at the ceremony, a special train having brought a number of members by night from Vienna. ‘ Bergrat’ Dr. Beck, who was to occupy the hut as caretaker, received the visitors, and after a religious service—Mass conducted by the priest of Grafendorf—the hut was dedicated by numerous speeches, in which the painter’s life-work, 2 The party were demanded their passports before entering the new (Italian) Théodule Hut! Accordingly, they wisely descended and slept at the Gandegg.

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Alpine Notes. 401 devoted to the glory of the Alps, was enthusiastically lauded. His artist son, Harrison Compton, who represented the family, thanked the Club for the honour done to his father, presenting a portrait to be hung on the walls of the hut. Later in the day the more vigorous visitors made the ascent of the Reisskofel (2370 m.), a rock possessed of a romantic history and at one time regarded as inaccessible. W.C.C. EIGER BY MITTELLEGIGRAT.—Miss Dorothy Jordan Lloyd, with the guides Fritz Amatter and Fritz Suter of Grindelwald, made the ascent by this ridge on August 18, 1928. The descent was made by the same route. (Times from Mittellegi Hut to summit: 04.40 to 10.30. Summit to Mittellegi Hut: 12.00 to 18.30, including long halts.) On August 19 a direct descent to Alpiglen was made from the Mittellegi Hut. (Times: 07.30 to 14.00.) M. Montandon writes: ‘Several of my friends have been up the Mittellegi aréte without guides, including Dr. Hans Lauper with his wife. They all say that it is a most magnificent ascent.’ TRAVERSE OF FINSTERAARHORN BY S.E. AR£TE.—August 23, 1928. Same party as above. From the Studerfirn by ice-slopes and the rock-rib to the S. of the hanging glacier to the S.E. ridge and along it to the summit. Descent to Hugisattel and Finsteraar Hut. (Times from Oberaar Hut to Finsteraar Hut 04.00 to 16.00, includ- ing long halts for photography.) This appears to be the first time that a lady has reached the 8.E. ridge of the Finsteraarhorn from the Studerfirn, although in August 1906 Miss Hampson Simpson (now Mrs. G. Hasler), Herr G. Hasler, with the guide Heinrich Fuhrer, went from the Schwarzegg hut, Agassizjoch, N:W. ridge, descended the 8.E. ridge to a little below the so-called ‘ Minor Summit,’ and then struck down to the Walliserfiescherfirn. Doctor Hugo Miller and his son, when climbing the Pétéret aréte of Mont Buianc this summer, found during the ascent an old chocolate box containing a visiting card with the names of Herren Amstutz, von Schumacher, and Willy Richardet. The card was found on the S. aréte of the Aiguille Blanche de Pétéret; it was dated August (7) 11, 1925, and stated that the three climbers were returning owing to bad weather. M. Richardet, one of the greatest of the young Swiss mountaineers, perished through stonefall, below the party’s gite (at 3700 m.), on the Aiguille Blanche de Pétéret, August 9, 1925 (‘ A.J.’ 87, 353-6). Piz (Monte di) Scerscen.—A new route has been forced up the S. face, August 11, 1928, by Signor Alfredo Corti, A. Bonola, and C. Folati. ‘ A splendid but difficult climb.’ It is hoped to publish details later.

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402 Alpine Notes. The Reruce LomBarp of the C.A.F. (Aiguilles d’Arves), erected only in 1927, was destroyed during the winter.® S.A.C. Huts.—The Basodino Hut in Val Maggia was opened last July, while the Cavardiras Hut on the Brunni Glacier was in- augurated in September. The Grialetsch Hut was opened in October. The Biferten Hut belonging to the A.A.C. BasLE was opened last September. Monsieur E. A. Martet, Hon. Member A.C., has been elected Président de la Société de Géographie. SoUTHERN AIGUILLE D’ARVES.—With reference to ‘A.J.’ 40, 9-23, Monsieur Montandon writes: ‘. . . Looking at the fine photo- graph of the Aiguille Méridionale reproduced by M. E. Piaget in La Montagne, 1910, taken on the Aiguille Orientale de la Saussaz, I | wonder that no one has ever tried or inspected a route which would lead over the big horizontal ledge across the S. face, on to the 8.W. or W. face, where the rocks leading to the summit seem to be broken and the inclination not over steep. In any case it would be worth while for some good climber to follow once that apparently very easy ledge and have a peep at the rocks round its corner. It is sad that my age and health debar me, but you may have a try ! ‘The descriptions of the Mauvais Pas differ very much. At its base there zs a belay, situated a little to the mght. It was put to the test at the time of the accident of 1907 (‘‘ A.J.” 28, 643), when the falling man [Dr. Robert von Wyss] was retained instantly by a rope from each side. The Mauvais Pas will always remain a rather dangerous place. The best photograph of the upper part of it is the one by Miss Bell published in La Montagne of 1910, but she says she took two photographs there of the German party (Paulcke and Lohmiiller) in Kletterschuhen, while the man in the photograph, climbing in nailed boots, is very likely Miss Bell’s guide, Mathon.’ Mount Otympus.—To the note on Mount Olympus, ‘A.J.’ 40, 101, the following may be added : From a letter received from Madame Kuhn giving a full account of her husband’s ascent of Mount Olympus it appears that the party which ascended Mitka and Stefan on August 15, 1921, con- sisted only of F. K. Kuhn and Kristo Kakalos. F.K. Kuhn, who was a Swiss engineer, was killed in Venezuela in an attack by Indians in 1926. 3 An evil fate appears to await all Dauphiné huts, their flimsy construction no doubt contributing towards their quick disinte- gration.

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Mitka was ascended on July 15, 1927, by Dr. H. Handel-Mazzetti of Vienna and Mr. Otto Dibovski of Salonika. W.T.E. C. M.S. Climbers’ Guide to the BERNESE OBERLAND.—A much revised edition of this valuable book, originally compiled by the late Mr. Coolidge and subsequently translated into German under the direction of Dr. Diibi, is now in active preparation by members of the Berne section of the 8.A.C. and members of the A.A.C. Berne. It will be furnished with many illustrations, and the personal know- ledge of its compilers, among whom one of the chief is Dr. Hans Lauper, a great authority on the district, will ensure the accuracy of the indications. It is hoped that weight will be studied and the volumes made to cut up into quite small sections, a much appreciated plan followed by Badeker. J.P. F. The E., or Mer de Glace, face of the AIGUILLE DE GREPON was ascended and descended on the same day by a party led by Armand Charlet, while an ascent by the ‘Mummery’ route is stated to have been led by a lady ! The ArauILLE NorrE DE PETERET was climbed from the Bréche sud des Dames Anglaises August 7, 1928, by Signor G. Rivetti, with Adolphe Rey and Alphonse Chenoz of Courmayeur. The route appears to have been by the N.E. face, without touching the shoulder on the N. aréte, and took 12 hrs. 40 mins. from the Gamba Hut tothe summit. The CaLorre DE Rocuerort has been climbed by its S. face and also by the E. aréte by the same party. No details yet available. A. B. Two young Italians, Signori A. Cretier and L. Binel,* are also reported as having climbed the E. tooth, La Vierge, of the Dames ANGLAISES. The difficulties were finally overcome by the use of a kind of ladder or ‘ joy-stick.’ No dates or details. The savage S.E., or Tronchey (Pra Sec), aréte of the GRANDES JoRaAssEs has been accomplished at last, July 28 (or 29), 1928. The party consisted of Signor Alberto Heron, with Evaristo Croux and another guide (? Croux). From a first bivouac on the Aiguille de Tronchey more than 12 hrs. were required to the summit. No other details. : A. B. ‘ The same party made a variation of the N. aréte route of the Grivola, August 2, 1926 (R.M. xlvii, pp. 252-3, illustrated).

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404 Alpine N otes: We understand that one or more parties made attempts on the N. face of the GRANDES JORASSES, but met with rebuffs. *R.M.’ xlvii, pp. 147-59, admirably illustrated, gives an account of the engineered ascent of the GRANDES JorassEs by the N.E. aréte from the Col des Hirondelles, in August, 1927. The party consisted of Signori Francesco Ravelli, Guido Rivetti, Gustavo Gaja, and L. Matteoda,® with Adolphe Rey and Alphonse Chenoz. Rey was the leader. A foreword by Signor Lampugnani refers very sympathetically to the descent by the Young—Jones-Knubel (Croux) party in 1911 (‘ A.J.’ 25, 737-8 ; 26, 231-42). In ‘R.M.’ xlvii, pp. 237-48, will be found a highly interesting article, Nelle Grandes Murailles, written by Count Aldo Bonacossa, describing several of our member’s new routes in the VALPELLINE RIpGE, together with a superb photograph by Cav. Vittorio Sella, facing p. 266. The @.A.Z. announces the ascent of ILLampu (Sorata), in the Bolivian Cordillera, by Herren H. Pfann, E. Hein, H. Hértnagel, and A. Horeschowsky of the D. & Oe. A.-V. Expedition. Other peaks climbed include Calzata, Cocho-Comani and Illimani. A reconnaissance of the N. FACE OF THE MATTERHORN.—Last September the guides Kaspar Mooser and Viktor Imboden of Taesch explored this face. Their object was not an ascent but to ascertain whether a certain route, known to be very difficult but sheltered from stone-fall, was cut off at a certain spot (as they feared) by an overhang. The certain spot was duly attained and further progress was completely barred. This very sporting expedition should Nor be regarded as an attempt, being solely in the nature of a reconnarssance. We regret to hear lately of the decease of M. Pau, GuILLEMIN (1847-1928), who was well known in Dauphiné for his expeditions in the late ‘seventies and early ’eighties. His usual companion was the late M. Salvador de Quatrefages. The Pic sans Nom, 3915 m., was renamed in 1879, most erroneously, in honour of the party. ——$<_—— 5 We cannot trace the exact date in the narrative owing to the constant references to the days of the week—it was between August 6-10. Signor Matteoda is understood to have disappeared during the disastrous ‘ Nobile ’ expedition in 1928.

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Alpine Notes. 408 A stained-glass window was unveiled and dedicated on May 11, by the Archbishop of York, in East Rounton Church, near Northallerton, to the memory of Miss GERTRUDE BELL. One of the lights in the window represents the Matterhorn. The first complete traverse of the Pallavicinirinne of the Gross GLOCKNER took place on July 16, 1927—‘ A.J.’ 40, 185. Since then no less than seven other ascents have been made, two by solitary individuals. From Alpenfreund, October 1928. AIGUILLE SANS NomM-AIGUILLE VERTE traverse.—This expedition was accomplished last July by the guides Armand Charlet and Camille Dévouassoud from the Nant Blanc Glacier. The party, after great trouble on the glacier and lower glazed rocks of the A. sans Nom, were forced to bivouac. On the following day they eventually forced their way direct to the summit of the Pointe Crouz, whence the watershed was followed to the Calotte of the A. Verte. The ascent was very difficult and dangerous below the bivouac, while the final climb to the Pointe Croux is considered by Charlet as the most desperate he has made. MM. de Ségogne and Lagarde, climbing independently, decided wisely to return from the bivouac. We learn with the greatest pleasure that CoRIsTIAN KLUCKER has quite recovered from the severe attack of sciatica which crippled him during the earlier part of the season. He was able to lead ‘ as usual’ in the ascent of many of the Bregaglia peaks, including the Ago di Sciora, later in the summer. The new carriage road from Ville Vallouise to AILEFROIDE is nearly completed. It was possible last summer to motor to within a few hundred yards of the hamlet and Chalet Hotel. (From La Montagne.) The weather in SWEDEN in the climbing season of 1928 was as conspicuous for its badness as that elsewhere was for its excellence, the summer being said to be the worst known for nearly a hundred years. Serious mountaineering was, therefore, not possible during August, but a fair number of people visited the Kebnekaise Tourist Station, and KEBNEKAISE ® itself was frequently ascended by the ordinary tourist route over Vierramvare. It may be interesting to note that the Kebnekaise group is now easily accessible, thanks to the exertions of the Swedish Tourist Club, and may be reached in two days from the railway station at Kalixfors on the railway running north from Stockholm to Narvik, the passage of the chain of lakes being facilitated and accelerated by a motor-boat running twice a week in each direction. The intervening night is spent at ® 6964 ft. The highest mountain in Sweden.

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406 Alpine Notes. a comfortable little building at Nikkulahti belonging to a Lapp, Peter Haugli, who also acts as guide between Kalixfors and — Nikkulahti and drives the motor-boat. The Tourist Station at Kebnekaise is comfortable and well managed, and makes a good starting-point for expeditions in the neighbourhood, in which Swedish mountaineers have done a good deal of work in recent years. It may be noted here that the 1929 number of the ‘ Arskrift’ of ’ the Swedish Touring Club (Svenska Turist Féreningen) is to be devoted specially to Lapland and should contain a good deal of interest to mountaineers, at any rate to those who can read a little Swedish, and even by those who cannot the illustrations will prob- ably be found to give a good idea of a fascinating country and its interesting Lapp and Finn inhabitants. H. L. JosELanp. Mr. Justice OLIVER WENDELL HoLMEs has established a pre- cedent in the annals of the U.S. Supreme Court. He has just broken the record for the longest period of sitting on the bench—a record that has stood since 1864. Mr. Holmes was born on March 3, 1841 ; he is actively engaged in the discharge of his judicial duties, enjoying better health than in recent years, and able to attend not only every session of the court, but also its frequent conferences.— From the Philadelphia Public Ledger, June 6, 1928. Mr. Holmes was elected to the Alpine Club in 1866 and is conse- quently—we speak under correction—our second Senior Member, bracketed. We wish him many more years of activity and happiness. A MatTernorn novel.—Herr J. F. Jegerlehner has incorporated a degenerate idea into a remarkably foolish work: Michel Croz in the role of passionate lover and rival to the younger Taugwalder. When will this kind of vulgarity and bad taste cease to be pub- lished ? The expedition to the ALAI range, equipped by the Russian Academy of Science and the D. & Oe. A.-V., has succeeded in ascending Mt. KAUFMANN ? in the Trans-Alai. Mt. Kaufmann is more than 7100 m.°® and is the highest peak in the Trans-Alai range forming the Northern Boundary of the Pamirs. Although very ancient caravan routes between EK. and W. Turkestan pass by the foot of the range, the Trans-Alai remained completely unknown. Its exploration, including the higher regions, was one of the prin- cipal tasks of the expedition, which by the ascent of the highest 7 The new Soviet name is unprintable. ®§ The Times Atlas gives 23,386 ft., corresponding approximately with 7200 m.—the height is probably much overestimated.— Editor.

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Alpine Notes. 407 peak has accomplished a notable mountaineering and scientific achievement. The N. face of the peak, rising 4000 m. in steep rocky cliffs above the Alai valley, is absolutely impossible ; consequently the moun- taineering section of the party vainly tried to climb the great peak from the EK. Only after shifting their base to the S.E. side was the ascent carried out successfully, although with extraordinary labour, on September 25, 1928. In addition two other mountains of over 6000 m., both described as ‘ very difficult and dangerous,’ were climbed. During August the expedition did successful work in the Se.Ltau, the range bordering on the Pamirs on the W., where a number of huge glaciers, including the Fedschenko glacier, stated to be 45 miles (!) long and the largest in Russian territory, were explored and measured.—From the Berliner Tagblatt and Allgemeine Berg- steiger Zeitung. Mr. N. A. Tombazi is organizing an expedition, for next year, to KANGCHENJUNGA with the object of exploring the approaches and especially the ridge between Siniolchum and Kangchenjunga. Dr. H. Diss celebrated his eightieth birthday on November 25. In conjunction with the whole Alpine world, we wish him many happy returns of the day. An album of beautifully executed water-colours and drawings has been purchased for the Club Library. The album was the property of Mr. W. E. Hatt (1835-1894), Secretary to the A.C., 1867-8, and elected to the Club in 1861. Among other paintings, it contains an illustration of great merit of the Matterhorn, executed from the top of the Lyskamm on the day of the latter’s first ascent, August 19, 1861. Mr. Hall’s other paintings and drawings include the Schreck- horn, Dent d’Hérens, Géant, and several scenes of great interest in the Prussian-Danish war of 1864. The new hut—almost an hotel—replacing the old Cecrt1a Club hut at the foot of the Predarossa glacier, is nearly completed. The Cecilia is to be left standing derelict, but it appears strange that its pretty and long-established name (after the wife of the late Count Francesco Lurani) has not been transferred to the new hut (* Ponti’). An interesting monograph on the Corni Bructati, the southern outliers of Monte Disgrazia, unattractive peaks in fascinating country, is published in the C.A.I. Sezzone di Milano monthly, October, 1928. It is believed that one British ascent only of these peaks has been accomplished. We much regret to hear of the death of Monsieur PreRRE PuisEux (1855-1928), the famous astronomer. M. Puiseux was an honorary member of the Alpine Club.

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408 Alpine Notes. The Central Committee of the 8.A.C. has generously presented a number of volumes from the Lisrary of the late Mr. CooLimncE, and of which the A.C. Library was previously deficient. We much appreciate the gift. AIGUILLE DU Puan, by the E. face. ‘ Our time from the Mon- tenvers to the summit was 12 hours 40 minutes, or 17 hours, I think, from door to door. Franz (Lochmatter] led over the final difficul- ties. ... It was the hardest climb I ever did, although we had it in perfect condition. ... All the climbs I did in 1905-6 from the Mer de Glace were very similar, t.e. Grépon, Blaitiére, Charmoz, Plan, but on the latter difficulties were longer. In 1914 I repeated Young’s route up the Grépon, which was a great improvement on mine of 1905, but again not so long as the Plan. I think you would like my route up the [Grands] Charmoz by the Montenvers face . . . it is Just like the Plan, only much shorter (we kept fairly close to the Petits Charmoz ridge), we took between 8 and 9 hours over it.’ (Letter from Captain V. J. E. Ryan to Mr. Smythe.) AIGUILLE DES GuaciERS.—Mr. Eaton writes: ‘Last August I left the Pavillon de Trélatéte with Monsieur Robert Ditmas, and two guides, at 03-15 to attempt the ascent of the A. des Glaciers by a route previously but once accomplished by Monsieur Henri Bregeault and an amateur companion in 1926. We ascended the Trélatéte Glacier for 3 hours, leaving the arm of that glacier (up which the ordinary route goes) on our right. S. M. Bregeault’s route, at which we were aiming, is the central one of three ridges leading up from the Glacier de Trélatéte to the shoulder where the ordinary route from the Col des Glaciers falls in. We gained access to the ridge from the glacier by polished slabs constituting the only real difficulty in the climb. We reached the shoulder in 8 hours from the Pavillon, which compares with M. Bregeault’s time of 6 hours to the summit! I agree with Bregeault’s remark that the route—although loose rocks are met with—is a good and safe one, preferable to the ordinary way.’ Mr. Richard Kay has kindly presented to the Club the Ftihrerbuch of PETER TAUGWALDER (1843-1923). Portraits of Taugwalder (about 1865) will be found in ‘ A.J.’ 81, facing p. 88 and 89 facing p. 15. Diz ENGELHORNER.—The entire chain from the Gstellihorn to the Burgalp has been climbed in 11 hours, in the same day this summer, by four Meiringen mountaineers. The BREITLAUIHORN has been ascended direct from the Fafleralp via the Innerer Lauibach and the rib commencing at point 2669 m. (S. map), on July 26, 1928, by MM. Chervet and Etienne. Time 9 hrs. 40 mins. (including 1 hr. 20 mins. halts). A very fine ascent of quite first-rate importance in its upper part. P. M.

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Alpine Notes. 409 AIGUILLE DE LA REPUBLIQUE.—The ascent was repeated on July 14,® 1928, by Monsieur V. Hugonnet, with Alfred Couttet, M. Bozon and E. Ravanel; the former elaborate rope-throwing operations proved necessary. This appears to be the second ascent of the tooth. From La Montagne. THE Dom 1n WINTER.—With reference to my ascent of the Dom in January 1894, Monsieur Marcel Kurz, in an article published in the ‘ Annuaire ’ for 1928 of the Association Suisse des Clubs de Ski, appears to have established the fact that the first winter ascent of this peak was accomplished on March 3, 1891, by a party of nine guides accompanied by a certain Johann Kronig, who had returned from a long sojourn in the United States to his native valley, and was at the time teaching English in Randa. A mysterious feature of this ascent is that Adolf Schaller, who was one of my guides in January 1894, is stated to have been a member of the party in 1891. When he proposed that we should make our ascent, Adolf never mentioned or even hinted that he had been one of a party on a previous winter ascent, and, as a matter of fact, gave me to understand that the Dom had never been ascended, nor even attempted, in winter. Furthermore, when we descended from our successful ascent, I spent over an hour in Randa, when I chatted to several of the guides resident there, and, in spite of the fact that our ascent had created a considerable stir in the valley, not a single word was mentioned of any previous winter ascent. It is somewhat curious to note that although the 1891 ascent appears to have been made in very bad weather and the party, consisting of ten persons, was a large one usually involving slower progress, the ascent was made in 3 hours less than our time. They must have found better conditions in other respects, as although we had superb weather, we had an unexpected amount of step-cutting to do on the Festigrat. Otherwise we had no induce- ment to linger as the cold was intense. Monsieur Kurz refers to a communiqué which was sent to the Swiss Press. I should like to add that this was done entirely without my knowledge, and at the time caused me considerable annoyance, as I dislike anything that savours of advertisement, which I regret to notice 1s becoming far too frequent in the present day. Monsieur Kurz is kind enough to say that he knows that I do not attach any importance to priority, but, had I known of the previous ascent, I should certainly have attempted one of the other great peaks instead of the Dom. SYDNEY SPENCER. In the interest of historical accuracy, and since M. Kurz has seen fit—very properly—to draw attention to the true date of the first winter ascent of the Dom, we would pomt out that Mr. Spencer’s * Note the singular appropriateness of the date—Editor.

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410 Himalayan Notes. first ascent of the AIGUILLE DE BLAITIERE by the great snow or ice wall facing the Nantillons Glacier (August 7, 1898, with Christian Jossi, sen., and Hans Almer, ‘A.J.’ 82, 368; 87, 195) is recorded neither in Guide de la Chaine du Mont Blanc, 1927, nor in * Vallot,’ Les Aiguilles de Chamoniz.—E. L. 8. A.A.C. Berne. Herr A. Gassmann is the President Elect and Herr A. Stumpf Hittenchef for 1929. We deeply regret to report, in August, October and November, respectively, the deaths of Messrs. G. E. Wuerry, J. A. CARFRAE, Sir ALEXANDER KENNEDY and Mr. M. F. Monter- WI.iiaMs, four very senior and distin- guished members of the Alpine Club. Obituaries will appear in the May ‘A.J.’ HIMALAYAN NOTES. THE HIMALAYAN CLUB. INFORMATION AND INTELLIGENCE. A. Route Books and Guides. One of the principal objects of the Club, as stated in the Memor- andum of Association, is ‘ to collect, classify and publish descrip- tions of Himalayan routes and other information relating to the Himalaya.’ The basis on which it is proposed to work is ‘ Routes in the Western Himalaya, Kashmir, etc.,’ by Lieutenant-Colonel T. G. Montgomerie, R.E., F.R.S., generally known as the Survey of India Route Book. A revised and enlarged edition, covering Gilgit, Kashmir, Punch, Ladakh and the routes to Central Asia from these districts, was prepared by Major Kenneth Mason and published by the Survey of ae in 1922 as ‘ Routes in the Western Himalaya, Kashmir, etc., ol. I.’ It is now proposed : (1) To prepare a revised and enlarged edition of the remainder of Montgomerie’s Route Book, covering Chamba, Lahul, Spiti, Kangra, Kulu, Bashahr, Tehri-Garhwal and Kumaon, which will be published as ‘ Routes in the Western Himalaya, Kashmir, etc., Vol. II.’ ; (2) To prepare a similar Route Book for the Eastern Himalaya and the northern ranges of Assam and Burma ; (3) To prepare District Guides, elaborating these Route Books and including more detailed information on peaks and passes, on

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Himalayan Notes. 41] climate and meteorology, on geology, botany, natural history and other scientific subjects, on the inhabitants of the district and their way of living, archeology and folk-lore, and all matters of interest to Himalayan travellers. The Honorary Editor will be in general charge of this work. It is proposed to appoint Honorary Assistant Editors who will be in detailed charge of different districts. Members who have first-hand knowledge of any district and are willing to undertake the Assistant Editorship are invited to communicate with the Honorary Editor, 13 Wood Street, Calcutta. The Honorary Editor would be very grateful if members would send, either to him or to the Assistant Editor for the District (when appointed), any notes or diaries of their Himalayan travels, both past and future, that are likely to be of use for this work. Notes and diaries, when sent in original, will be copied and returned, if desired. Any member proposing to travel in the Himalaya may apply to the Honorary Editor or the Assistant Editor for the District (when appointed), who will furnish him with all available information about the routes by which he proposes to travel, and will also tell him what further information is required by existing routes, and what new routes in the district might usefully be explored. In this way, it is hoped, the available information about each district will continually be supplemented and extended. Members finding any error that should be corrected or change that should be recorded in existing publications or maps, or in information with which they have been furnished, are requested to report it to the Honorary Editor or Assistant Editor for the District (when appointed). Note.—‘ Routes in the Western Himalaya, Kashmir, etc., Vol. I.,’ is now under revision, and a second edition will be published shortly. Additions and corrections already received are being incorporated. Further additions and corrections, or any other suggestions that members may wish to make, should be sent as soon as possible to the Honorary Editor, 13 Wood Street, Calcutta. B. Local Secretaries and Correspondents. It is proposed to develop the organisation which was adopted at the inaugural meeting of the Club, as follows : (a2) Honorary Local Secretaries in Himalayan districts will assist and advise members in all matters relating to travel in their districts, including transport, shikaries and porters, equipment and supplies, and costs. Note.—Detailed information about routes will be furnished by the Honorary Editor or the Assistant Editor for the District (see above).

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412 Himalayan Notes. (6) Local Correspondents in the principal centres in other parts of India will advise members regarding Himalayan travel generally and other activities of the Club, and will assist them in their preliminary arrangements. It is proposed that a Local Correspondent should also be appointed in London. (c) Technical Correspondents will assist and advise members on scientific and other subjects, and will collect and classify information on such subjects, which may be obtained from members or otherwise, for publication and other purposes. C. Maps. Survey of India Map Catalogues will be issued to Honorary Local Secretaries and Correspondents, who will be able to inform members what maps are available for the districts that they are visiting, and assist and advise them in the purchase of their requirements. All maps published by the Survey of India may be obtained from the Officer in charge, Map Record and Issue Office, 13 Wood Street, Calcutta. Maps mounted on cloth or to fold should be ordered in advance of the date on which they are required. The following members have already agreed to act as Local Secretaries or Correspondents :— Local Secretaries. Chamba—Lt.-Col. J. C. Coldstream, Chamba State, via Dalhousie, Punjab. Kashmir—Dr. E. F. Neve, F.R.C.S. (Edin.), Mission Hospital, Srinagar, Kashmir. Local Correspondents. London—Lt.-Col. E. L. Strutt, C.B.E., D.S.O., 12 Somers Place, Hyde Park, London, W. 2. Editor of the ALPINE JOURNAL. Lahore—Major M. L. A. Gompertz, 3-10th Baluch Regiment, Lahore. Meerut—Lt.-Col. G. K. Gregson, D.S8.0., R.A., 28th Field Brigade. Peshawar—Lt.-Col. H. L. Haughton, C.I.E., Commanding 10-11th Sikhs, Nowshera. Quetta—Capt. J. G. Bruce, M.C., Staff College, Quetta. Rawalpindi—Major C. G. Lewis, R.E., Survey of India, Rawal- pindi. Waziristan—Brigadier R. C. Wilson, D.S.0., M.C., Commanding Manzai Brigade, Manzai, S. Waziristan. Technical Correspondents. Archeology—Sir Aurel Stein, K.C.LE., Ph.D., D.Litt., D.Sc., Srinagar, Kashmir. Botany—Mr. B. O. Coventry, Srinagar, Kashmir. Entomology—Brigadier W. H. Evans, C.I.E., D.8.0., Head- quarters, Western Command, Quetta. Folk-lore—Mr. H. W. Emerson, C.1.E., ©.B.E., 1.C0.8., Chief Secretary, Punjab.

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Himalayan Notes. 418 Geodesy and Geophysics—Dr. J. de Graaff Hunter, Sc.D., M.A., Geodetic Branch, Survey of India, Dehra Dun. Geology—Dr. L. L. Fermor, O.B.E., D.Sc., Offg. Director, Geological Survey of India, Simla—Calcutta. Meteorology—Dr. C. W. B. Normand, D.Sc., Director General of Observatories, Poona. Ornithology—H. Whistler, Esq., Caldbec House, Battle, Sussex, England. Photography—Colonel W. B. Spalding, O.B.E., I.A.0.C., Master General of Supply Branch, Army Headquarters, Simla; and Captain C. J. Morris, 3rd Q.A.O. Gurkha Rifles, Lansdowne, U.P. Shooting and Fishing—Lt.-Col. H. G. Martin, Staff College, Quetta. Survey and Maps—Major Kenneth Mason, M.C., R.E., Assistant Surveyor General, 13 Wood Street, Calcutta. Zoology—Lt.-Col. C. H. Stockley, D.S.O., O.B.E., 14th Punjab Regt., Jhansi, U.P. The Local Correspondent in London will be in possession of copies of the 1: 1,000,000 map of the Himalaya, and an up-to-date map catalogue of the Survey of India. A complete set of the Survey of India maps is in possession of the Royal Geographical Society and access to these can be arranged. EQUIPMENT. The Committee of the Club propose to appoint an Equipment Sub- Committee to examine the question of equipment for Himalayan travel, and to prepare a note on the equipment and stores suitable for various types of Himalayan expeditions, as a guide to members who may require information and advice on this subject. It is proposed that the note should include lists of the equipment and stores actually taken on expeditions of each type. The Committee would be greatly obliged if members would send to the Honorary Editor, 13 Wood Street, Calcutta, any details they may have regarding their equipment on any expeditions that they have made, stating in each case the purpose for which they travelled, the district visited, the date and duration of the journey, with any further notes, comments and criticisms that they may wish to add. In the case of expeditions on which rations, warm clothing, tents or other equipment were issued to servants, porters or other transport personnel, details of such issues should be stated. Lists and other information received will be examined and classified by the Honorary Editor, and will then be considered by the Equipment Sub-Committee which it is proposed to appoint. VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 2E

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414 Canadian and American Notes. CANADIAN AND AMERICAN NOTES. ‘Mystery Mountain.’ Captain R. P. Bishop, B.C.L.8., writes : ‘Major Longstaff’s comments in “ Canadian Notes’’! tend to make me responsible for the suggestion that the high mountain in the Coast Range had been seen by Alfred Waddington while building a road from Bute Inlet to the interior of British Columbia. My attention was drawn to Waddington’s map of the Homathko valley in 1922, but it never occurred to me to connect the peak indicated there with the mountain I had photographed from Mount Good Hope near Chilko Lake. “If Waddington had really seen the mountain, which is higher than any of the Canadian Rockies, he gave no hint of the fact in his address before the Royal Geographical Society in 1868; he described the Coast Range as “a sea of mountains, some of which attain, if they do not exceed, a height of 10,000 ft,’”’ but considered that several peaks of the Rocky Mountains rise to a height of 16,000 ft., and his description of both ranges was given with a good deal of detail. “Frederick Whymper, in the subsequent discussion, reminded Waddington of the remarkable glaciers which lay so close to his road, but made no reference at all to peaks of exceptional height. Whvmper gives a very interesting account of his visit in “* Travels in Alaska and on the Yukon.”’ ‘The suggestion that Waddington was the first to voice, in London, the proposal of a railway from Eastern Canada to the Pacific requires some qualification ; Viscount Milton and Dr. Cheadle in their ‘‘ North-West Passage by Land” ® had suggested a railway between Halifax and British Columbia in 1865, before the Dominion of Canada had come into being. “The massacre of Waddington’s party on the day of Whymper’s departure in 1864 had brought the waggon road project to an end, and Waddington now proposed a railway along the same route to connect the Upper Fraser; this was to form part of a railway and steamboat route from Montreal, and of the 3490 miles to the head of Bute Inlet only 1100 were, at first, to be by land. Waddington’s keenness for this project led him to condemn every other line of country, but Dr. Cheadle pointed out that the route he and Lord Milton had discovered by the North Thompson might be feasible as an alternative. This now provides a main line of the Canadian National Railway with a very famous grade, but, if 1 A.J. 40, 197-8. 2 Loc. cit. p. 295. The Dominion was established in 1867 and joined by British Columbia in 1871.

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Canadian and Amerncan Notes. 415 Waddington’s contentions as to the valley of the Fraser had been correct, the transcontinental terminus at Vancouver would have been an impossibility. ‘Waddington, then, was not the first in the field, nor were his plans altogether practicable. But in England, and subsequently at Ottawa, he undoubtedly kept alive the transcontinental idea which was to bring British Columbia into confederation and extend the Dominion from sea to sea. “The name ‘“ Mystery,’ to which you refer in a footnote, “A.J.” 40, p. 99, was never officially adopted, but I must agree that it is by no means inappropriate. I would, however, like to reply to Mr. Munday’s playful explanation in the Empire number of The Freld: ‘* Four survey parties working at long distances had, it seems, failed to agree even approximately as to the height and position of the dominating peak; hence the name ‘ Mystery mountain.’ ”’ ‘I think it will be found that the approximate height which I published in the Victoria Daily Colonist, early in 1923, was not far wrong, the exact figures I cannot remember ; I did not publish co-ordinates as I knew that my data were indefinite; viewed from this angle then the mystery disappears. Surely a greater mystery lies in the fact that British Columbia mountaineers paid no attention for a couple of years to my announcement that the mountain was apparently higher than Mount Robson, the highest point in the Canadian Rockies ! “I am glad to be able to congratulate Mr. and Mrs. Munday on their recent success, on the enterprise they have shown in their various attempts, and on the amount of information they have secured about a comparatively unknown country. ‘R. P. BrsHop.’ Tue Roya GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, October 4, 1928. ‘Mystery Mountain’ was ascended on July 8, 1928, by Mr. and Mrs. Don Munday and Mr. A. R. Munday. According to the Victoria Daily Colonist of July 21, the ascent from and descent to the base camp took 24 hrs. It is hoped to publish full details later. Mount MA.iory and Mount IRvINnE: a Note. Among well-thumbed books in the public lbraries throughout the United States few are in greater demand than those describing the last assault on Mount Everest in 1924. So great is the popu- larity of books by Sir Francis Younghusband and Colonel E. F. Norton, that it is necessary to file reservation one or two months before there is a chance of being able to borrow acopy. The interest of the American public is shared by the mountaineering clubs throughout the country. The Sierra Club in California has taken the lead in recording their appreciation of the bravery of the two

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416 Accidents im 1928. Britons who lost their lives in the last assault of Mount Everest, by naming two peaks near Mount Whitney, in the High Sierra, Mount Mallory and Mount Irvine. ‘Mount MALLORY AND Mount IRVINE.’ Two peaks near Mount Whitney, unnamed on the U.S. Geological Survey Map, were climbed by Norman Clyde in June 1925. No records were found on the summits, and in each case Clyde’s ascent appears to be the first. He has expressed a desire to name these two peaks Mount Mallory and Mount Irvine, in honour of the two British climbers who lost their lives on Mount Everest in 1924. ‘Mount Mallory (13,870 ft.) is on the main crest of the Sierra, north-west of Mount Le Conte. ‘Mount Irvine (13,700 ft.) is east of Whitney Pass, and stands apart from the main crest.’ 8 The writer made the second recorded ascent of Mount Mallory and Mount Irvine on June 3, 1928, with Mr. Norman Clyde, High School Master of Independence, Owens Valley, California. Mount Mallory affords an interesting rock scramble from the saddle which separates it from an unnamed peak (13,800 ft.) on the W. The summit of Mount Mallory is gained by a traverse of the E. side of the smaller peak which stands in line with the main range N. of the real summit. From the base of this smaller peak an irregular knife-edge leads to the summit cairn of Mount Mallory. Mount Irvine is most easily climbed from the saddle separating it from Mount Mallory, an ascent of little difficulty ; but the N. face, shown in the photograph, taken from the summit of Mount Muir, presents difficulties of sufficient interest to tempt even the most particular mountaineer. A. E. GUNTHER. AccIDENTS IN 1928. fI\HE season of 1928 was the finest that we can remember, surpassing even that of 1911. From the end of June up to the middle of August we cannot call to mind a single day when an expedition could not have been made. The vast majority of days were cloudless, marred only by occasional strong and cold north winds. Thunderstorms—except at Grindelwald and in the Northern Oberland—were conspicuous by their absence. ? From ‘ Mountaineering Notes,’ edited by Francis P. Farquhar. Sterra Club Bulletin, vol. xii, no. 3 (San Francisco, 1926), p. 306.

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Accidents in 1928. 417 Such being the weather conditions, the Alps were visited by record numbers of persons, mountaineers and others. But ‘mountain’ conditions were different, too, from anything previously known. Rocks were uncovered that for centuries have lain under their pall of snow and ice. Rock faces, such as the N.E. slope of the Matterhorn ! and the S.E. faces of the Weisshorn and Dent Blanche, became bleak dark walls, un- relieved, in the case of the Matterhorn, by a single flake of snow—not even on the shoulder. Similar faces on all mountains rapidly disintegrated and were raining stones. Great snow and rock arétes were never so easy, the snowy parts degenerating almost into shaly paths. A sad example of this is found in the ‘1928’ degradation of the splendid S.E. arete of Mont Blanc. Snow slopes, exceeding 25°, were mostly ice by the end of July; glaciers melting rapidly under the intense heat became labyrinths of crevasses, such bridges that remained being little else than unstable masses of rotten snow. We know of one highly expert guided party that required more than 5 hours of dangerous work to descend from the Schwarzthor to the surface of the Gorner Glacier. Conditions being such, so different, save in weather, from 1911, can we wonder that in some ways the season of 1928 has proved a disastrous one ? It is impossible to make even a précis of the various accidents. Neither would it be advantageous to do so; a brief account of some of the worst 1s all that is needed. The same sad stories recur year after year. But one word of sympathy is required for our friends of the C.A.F. They have indeed been terribly hit. We can assure them that as we have rejoiced in their post-war Alpine triumphs, so do we now grieve with them in their losses. Since 1874, and particularly since 1914, theC.A.F. and the Alpine Club have been tied by particular bonds of friendship ; the disasters of 1928 will only tighten those bonds. To comment on these catastrophes is perhaps presumptuous; only a surviving eye-witness can do that. But it seems to us that the young French mountaineers of the 1919-28 school have gone ahead too fast. ‘On ne passe pas impunément sans transition des courses de troisiéme ordre aux courses extraordinaires ’—as the last Annuaire of the G.H.M. so well puts it. 1 The bodies of two victims of different July accidents were still lying near the foot of this face in late August. They could not be approached owing to the danger of falling stones.

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418 Accidents vn 1928. How many of these too enterprising young climbers have learnt their craft under good guides? How many of them are fit to go without guides at all? It should be remembered by them that ‘in guideless parties every member should be able to lead.’ # As is perhaps natural and as happened to the Alpine Club after July 14, 1865, a kind of shout of indignation has burst forth from French mountaineering and other circles against guideless climbing in general and the G.H.M. of the C.A.F. in particular. We would implore these circles not to lose their heads. The G.H.M. has done great work in the past; it will do greater still in the future. It realizes better than its critics what is justifiable and what is mere excess. It alone can curb the impetuosity, the follies perhaps, of some of its younger members and aspirants, all striving to live up to the C.A.F.’s proud motto: ‘ Pour la Patrie par la Montagne.’ Of serious accidents to our own members we have heard of none, happily. An Englishman has disappeared in the Andes. He was attempting in July—midwinter—the ascent of Acon- cagua, alone and on ski. This is not a mountain accident, it is an act of sheer insanity meeting its inevitable reward. Many narrow escapes were chronicled. Of these, one in particular has come to our knowledge. A party, composed of one of the best of young mountaineers and two novices, having successfully attempted and carried through a most difficult and dangerous expedition—only once previously accomplished—were descending by a couloir to the flat surface of a glacier, all ‘ difficulty ’ being at an end, or so they thought. They were wearing crampons and were unroped. We do not know whether they were cutting steps or not. Knowing the couloir as we do, they ought to have been. Nearing the foot of the said long and steep couloir, the two novices slipped, and, unable to stop themselves, fell to the bottom. One was uninjured, but the horrified expert, who had been powerless to check the slip, on arriving at the base found the other apparently dead. He proceeded to the valley and returned quickly with a rescue party. To the general relief the victim was recovering and no permanent injury has been suffered, apparently. We know that the lesson will not be wasted. A _ similar story may be found in ‘A.J.’ 39. Besides those to be described, there were accidents, among 2 See Mr. Bradby’s paper in the present number.

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Accidents in 1928. 419 others, on the Belledone, Grépon, Matterhorn (8), Dent Blanche (2), Lo Besso, Aermighorn (in which a promising young guide lost his life), Diablerets, Finsteraarhorn, Jungfrau, Rhone Glacier, Piz Cambrena, Piz Kesch and the usual number in the Dolomites and Eastern Alps. In all cases there was grievous loss of life. Turning for a moment to the accidents on the Petit Dru, we are indeed fortunate not to have to chronicle a loss of life, possibly without precedent in the entire history of mountaineering. THE ACCIDENT ON THE BARRE DES EcrINs. On July 22 a young French party composed of MM. Debray, de Villeroy, and Tordo left the Vallon Club hut with the intention of climbing Les Ecrins by the usual S. face route. Having attained the uppermost slopes of the Vallon de la Pilatte Glacier about 09.30, they took to the left (ascending) branch of the rocky couloir by mistake for the right and usual route. [This left branch, also feasible, is known as the Couloir Champeauz.] Some 160 ft. up, a hand-hold broke off in the leader’s (Debray) grip, and his feet being on a smooth slab, he came off at once, dragging down the remainder of the party in his fall. | The three fell together and were not brought up till some 150 ft. above the Col des Avalanches. Villeroy, the last on the rope, although injured, was able to bandage his companions before hurrying down for help. A large party of amateurs and professionals, under the leadership of Maximin Rodier, with much difficulty carried down the dangerously wounded Debray and the less seriously injured Tordo. Debray unfortunately expired in the hospital at La Tronche two days later. He was a promising young climber, well known and respected at Nice. Tordo and de Villeroy are reported as progressing favourably. (Communication from M. de Ségogne.) THe ACCIDENT ON THE AIGUILLE VERTE. On July 9 last, a party, consisting of Monsieur J. P. Loustalot and his wife, made the ascent of the mountain. Their bodies were found, subsequently, at the foot of the “ Whymper’ couloir. Another party discovered later the broken axe of Loustalot. It had snapped high up in that portion of the handle covered with a leather band. The wood had completely perished owing to damp and the presence of a large number of. nails. It is surmised that Loustalot, to secure his wife, had passed the rope behind his deeply driven axe, that she had slipped, that the axe had

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420 Accidents 1n 1928. broken from the jerk, and that Loustalot himself was pulled down in his wife’s fall.® M. Loustalot, although aged only 27 years, was one of the most finished of French mountaineers and had led on many difficult expeditions. His wife, née Mademoiselle Yvonne Milliere, was also well known for her skill in French Alpine circles. They leave two very young children, and many circumstances combine to make this one of the most tragic of accidents. THE ACCIDENTS ON THE PETIT Dru. On August 14 a young French party consisting of MM. Georges Clot, Pierre Daurenson, Jean Choisy, and Jean Charignon left the Charpoua Club hut at a somewhat late hour and in doubtful weather, for the ascent of the Petit Dru. None of the party, except perhaps Daurenson, appear to have possessed much experience. Climbing in pairs, with Choisy leading the first rope and Daurenson the second, they had attained a spot some 300 ft. below the summit, when Daurenson, suddenly exclaiming ‘ Je lache,’ opened his hands and fell backwards. He landed on his back and head on a narrow ledge close to his companion. As it was evident that Daurenson was gravely injured, the leading party returned and joined Clot. An effort was made to lower Daurenson down the vertical slabs, but he was suffering such pain that the attempt had to be abandoned. After consultation it was determined that Choisy and Charignon should return to the Montenvers for help, while Clot remained with the injured man. This was accordingly done. MM. Choisy and Charignon safely reached the Charpoua hut, finding there a Swiss guideless party, and descended towards Chamonix. Meanwhile, Clot and the injured man remained on the mountain ; it proved to be a fine and fairly warm night. Early next morning, August 15, a rescue party of guides left Chamonix and arrived at a late hour at the hut. The Swiss party, also a very young one, which appears to have gone to the Charpoua hut with the intention of making the ascent of Le Cardinal, began to fear for the safety of the stranded party on the Petit Dru. Accordingly, they determined on the morning of August 15 to go up and render any assistance in their power. An Italian party, also in the hut, volunteered to accompany them. The names of the Swiss party were MM. Joseph Paillard, Charles and Henri Fiaroli, of Geneva: those of the Italian were Signori Giuseppe Gandi and Nigra, both of the Turin section, C.A.I. At 16.00 hours on the same day, August 15, the two parties reached the scene of the accident, finding both the injured Dauren- son and his companion still alive. As Daurenson was plainly dangerously wounded—his skull appears to have been fractured and * The account in La Montagne, 1928, pp. 324-6, states that the broken axe belonged to Madame Loustalot.

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Accidents in 1928. 421 the spinal cord injured—the Swiss and Italian parties left practically all their food as well as all their underclothing with Clot, and, having warmly wrapped up Daurenson, turned to the descent. Soon after leaving the weather turned very bad, a thunderstorm * came on, followed by torrents of hail, turning eventually into heavy snow. The Italian party bivouacked—wisely—on a ledge affording some shelter, but the Swiss pushed on during the night and contrived to descend the * grand couloir,’ attaining the great ledge leading to the Charpoua Glacier, where, hideously exposed, clad only in their outer clothing and with no food they awaited the dawn. With the growing light they were seen by the guides in the Charpoua hut who came to their assistance. All the Swiss were completely worn out, and Joseph Paillard, aged 20, expired while being carried. The others, frost-bitten and in the last stages of exhaustion, owe their lives to the devotion and care of a British doctor who, although not a mountaineer, had accompanied the guided search party. We are informed that the doctor’s name was Shelford. The Italians regained the hut in fairly good form. Meanwhile the party on the Petit Dru had spent a terrible night, and with the dawn of August 16, Clot perceived that Daurenson was sinking fast. He died at 13.00. Previous to his death, and through a break in the clouds, Clot had seen a party on the Charpoua Glacier. The hope of rescue had kept the wounded man alive, but when no help appeared (the party seen was that of the guides pro- ceeding to the disabled Swiss), Clot, in his own words, at last almost despaired. It is time to turn to Clot’s original companions, Choisy and Charignon. They had arrived exhausted at Chamonix, but set about to hunt for companions. They found one in M. Edmond Stofer, an experienced if young mountaineer. These three, together with several other volunteers, reached the Charpoua hut early on the 16th. They found the party of guides still unwilling to risk the terrors of the Petit Dru, especially clad as it now was in snow and ice, and a general attempt on the mountain was postponed till the 17th. Stofer and Choisy, equipped for a bivouac, nevertheless determined to proceed, and at 18.00, after great difficulties, reached the scene of the accident. Leaving the corpse where it lay, they covered it with stones and descended with Clot to another and more commodious ledge some distance lower down. Here the courageous party passed the night, Clot’s third on the mountain. Meanwhile Armand Charlet, the well-known ae returning ‘The storm was so violent that great trees were uprooted at Chamonix. * Other parties had also arrived ; on the morning of August 17 eighteen persons in all were on the mountain, most of whom, in- cluding a brave lady doctor, Madame Maunoury, proceeded to the houlder.

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429 Accidents in 1928. at once with Camille Tournier, Georges Cachat, and Jean Ravanel— classical Chamonix names—Charlet set out for the Petit Dru. With the earliest dawn, Stofer perceived a solitary figure below his party, climbing with desperate speed up the glazed and snow-clad slabs. In 2 hrs. 40 mins. from the hut Charlet had reached the party. He was soon joined by the other guides, all exhausted by the speed of the ascent; but Charlet was determined not only to save the survivor and his unselfish companions, but also to bring down the body lying on the ledge above. Starting again with the same reckless and self-sacrificing speed, he proceeded with one (or two) guides towards the corpse. His haste proved his undoing. He slipped and fell heavily, fracturing his skull. His second on the rope, Cachat, succeeded in holding him after falling nearly 100 ft.—a remarkable feat. The others had meanwhile begun the descent of the mountain. Returning to the scene of the third accident, they bound up the wounded Charlet, and, on his recovering consciousness, again went down. Charlet, with extraordinary courage, was able to lead down- wards and even pass the other party. On reaching the glacier he collapsed altogether, and had to be carried, unconscious, on impro- vised stretchers—even now none seem to have been available at Montenvers or Chamonix—to the valley. As a last scene in this long drawn-out tragedy, the body of M. Daurenson was brought down by a party of guides under the leadership of Vital-Charny to the Charpoua hut on August 20. He was buried at Chamonix on the 22nd. It is impossible to comment fully on these lamentable events, but the disasters of August 14-17, 1928, will be remembered for all ‘ Alpine ’ time for the heroism of survivors and rescue parties alike. We cannot praise too highly the gallantry of Clot, Choisy, and Stofer, or the devotion of Armand Charlet and the named guides. As to the conduct of Charles and Henri Fiaroli, of Paillard, of Gandi and Nigra, one of whom literally gave his life—as the others risked theirs—to save Clot and the dying Daurenson, this conduct, we repeat, is almost without parallel in the long roll of Alpine Brotherhood and peril.® With regard to the Jjustifiability of the behaviour of ie guides in the Charpoua hut, mountaineers on the spot will have formed their own opinion. We are not qualified to. MM. Clot, Charles and Henri Fiaroli, have completely recovered, we rejoice to say. As to Armand Charlet, there are conflicting reports, but he appears to be rapidly improving despite the grave fracture to his skull, and has been discharged from hospital. He had been fortunate indeed in landing on a small snow patch, thus ® We recall the immortal performance by Somervell, Norton, and Mallory in rescuing the marooned porters on the Chang La (Mt. Everest), May 23, 1924.

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Accidents in 1928. 4283 breaking his fall. Whether he can continue his profession as a guide is perhaps doubtful. But, be that as it may, of his many splendid exploits, none can compare with this his latest and most chivalrous deed. One significant fact may be added. The accidents on the Petit Dru involved the employment of over fifty persons : guides, porters, doctors, and amateur volunteers. All these had to be called away from their normal vocations. [This account differs somewhat from that published in La Montagne, 1928, but is, we are assured, quite accurate.] THE ACCIDENT ON THE BREITHORN (PENNINES). [Several routes have been forced up the N. face of this mountain. Among others, the E. peak, 4148 m., has been attained by its own particular N. aréte, July 17, 1897, by Messrs. H. J. Mothersill and C. S. Ascherson, with Ulrich Almer, Christian Kaufmann, and Christian Jossi, jun. This party having reached the point 3355 m. _ (S. map) kept slightly to the W. and then worked straight up, striking the main or summit ridge a little to the right, W., of a ‘ col,’ or gap, W. of point 4148 m. (‘ A.J.’ 18, 528). On August 18, 1906, Messrs. G. W. Young, R. J. Mayor, and C. D. Robertson, with Josef Knubel and Moritz Ruppen, mounted the N. aréte of point 4148 m. to where it splays out, or appears to from below, in the N. face close below point 4148 m.; here . . . ‘ a short ice traverse to the W. and a very awkward little corner, that only went at the third attempt, gave access to an open ice-glazed couloir, by which the corniced main E. ridge was reached, just W. of the peak [4148 m.]...’ ( A.J.’ 28, 491-2). . Both the British parties describe their routes as safe and “ legitimate.’] On July 13, 1928, a party consisting of four French gentlemen, MM. Pierre Le Bec,’ Edouard de Gigord, Pierre Langlois, and Edouard Yves Guibert, of whom the first two were well-known and experienced mountaineers, while the others, very young climbers, were rapidly winning their spurs, set out to climb the point 4148 m. by the so-called ‘ Young’ route. The party, whose progress had been very slow, was observed on the N. aréte, and, after a delay of 5 hours, was seen to reach the top of the great tower below the upper (snowy) ridge abutting close below the E. summit. This is not far from the spot whence ‘ the short ice-traverse to the W.’ has to be made. The cause of the delay remains unexplained. A cloud shut down on the face about 18.30 hrs., concealing the party from telescope observers on the Gorner Grat. On the view clearing about half an hour later, the climbers had disappeared, but one body and a rucksack were discovered by telescope lying just 7 Brother-in-law of the MM. de Lépiney.

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424 Accidents in 1928. above the bergschrund some 2000 ft. below. Tracks or grooves, three or four in number, were also remarked on the steep icy slopes above. On the following day a search party, led by Adolf Aufdenblatten, proceeded with difficulty and danger to the spot. They discovered the other three bodies, two of them still roped together, lying in the schrund. All were, or had been, wearing crampons and were terribly mutilated. They were brought down the same evening to Zermatt. What actually happened will never be known. Four finished and one partially cut ice steps were observed subsequently from the main ridge above. These steps were on or near ‘ the ice traverse ® leading to the very awkward little corner’; on the other hand the guide Rafael Lochmatter, from above on the main summit-ridge, observed distinct foot-traces in a little gully, invisible from the Gorner Grat, in the final precipitous wall leading to point 4148 m., to the E. of the * traverse,’ while a slice of corniche was missing from the crest of the main ridge. This points to the fact that the traverse may have been given up owing to its difficulty and the accident caused by the fall of the corniche, or perhaps a stone, while the party were attempting to gain the main ridge direct. In any case the fall took place at some spot only about 150 ft. below the E. aréte. The funeral service, attended by all the principal relatives and friends of the deceased, took place at Zermatt, the bodies being subsequently conveyed to France for burial. In this disaster—one of the saddest and most fatal that has occurred in the Alps—the only redeeming feature has been the admirable conduct and devotion of the professional search parties. M. de Ségogne, to whom we owe many of the above details, has requested us to convey in the ALPINE JOURNAL the warm thanks of the victims’ relatives and of the G.H.M. to the guides and Herr Seiler, as also to our own members present at Zermatt and the Riffelalp at the time. THE ACCIDENT ON THE ROTTALHORN. THE present number of the JouRNAL publishes a photograph of the Schreckhorn-Lauteraarhorn aréte, very kindly lent to us by Herr August Gysi of the Berne Section of the 8.A.C. We much regret to hear that Herr Gysi, on June 4, 1928, met with a fatal accident between the Rottalsattel and the Rottalhorn. With the well-known mountaineers, Herren Auguste Mottet and Liggenstorfer, Herr Gysi was mounting the broad snowfield leading to the summit of the Rottalhorn. The party was keeping well away, ‘in grossen Abstand,’ from the corniche overhanging the Jungfraufirn. Suddenly, during the ascent, a great crust of névé, 8 Le Bec’s axe was seen lying near but well below the beginning of the traverse ; he was leading at the time of the accident.

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Accidents an 1928. 425 some 6 m. broad, on which the party was standing, gave way and carried down two of the men. Herr Mottet, standing above the others, held firm, but the rope broke near the loop to which the middle-man was attached, and Herr Gysi, the last on the rope, was buried lower down under a great mass of detached snow. Soon after, while the remainder of the party was searching for Gysi, another and still larger crust of névé broke off carrying Mottet with it, the latter having great difficulty in working himself clear. The body of Gysi was found two days later buried under a layer of snow 4 m. thick. The party was a thoroughly competent one and it may be inferred, most certainly, that the dangerous condition of the névé field could in no way have been foreseen. Herr Gysi, a rather small and slender but wiry man of about fifty, was a very enterprising mountaineer and also a first-rate ski-runner. With his friends, Herren Mottet, Hans Koenig, A. Flunser and others, he had accomplished in the course of years a great many first-class guideless expeditions. He was especially good on rocks and had a marked liking for difficult rock peaks such as the Engelhérner, Gelmerhérner, Gastlosen and Albigna-Bregaglia mountains, where indeed hardly a summit escaped him and where a certain number of first ascents and new routes rewarded him. The second ascent of the difficult Tschingelspitze and a very daring attempt to climb the Gspaltenhorn from the Tschingelfirn may also be mentioned. He was a very clever and artistic photographer, as the pages of 8.A.C. periodicals clearly prove. It is understood that Die Alpen will reproduce a further selection. PauL MonrtTANDON. THE ACCIDENT ON ACONCAGUA. Caprain B. J. N. MARDEN arrived in Puente del Inca on July 8, 1928, with the idea of climbing Mt. Aconcagua. Owing to the weather being most unsuitable for such an undertaking, the hotel manager and various people staying there tried to dissuade him from making the attempt, but did not succeed in doing so. On July 14 he left the hotel with skis, a sledge and some provisions, returning the same evening. Next morning he left the hotel at 06.00 and has not been seen since then. Before his departure he signed a declaration to the effect that if he failed to return, nobody at Puente del Inca would be in any way responsible as they had fully explained the then prevailing conditions in the mountains. When the search parties set out to look for him, they noticed from the footprints that for some unknown reason Captain Marden was walking and not ski-ing. His tracks were followed up the Horcones Valley to a height of 3300 m., where they found his tent, which was then buried up to 1 m. in snow. There were signs that Captain Marden had taken a meal there but no signs as to whether he had slept there or not. Following his tracks, as the skis were

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426 Reviews. not found, it is uncertain whether Captain Marden had lost them or whether he was still carrying them on his back. The party followed his footprints up to 3800 m., where they narrowly escaped being buried in an avalanche. The weather broke, a strong wind arose, accompanied by thick mist and snow. The party proceeded up to 4000 m., where they left a mark indicating the farthest point reached and in view of the obvious danger they would be running in continuing the ascent, the party then decided to return to the hotel. It may be added that these guides were men of long experience in the Cordillera and in their opinion the first camp had been pitched at.the point last indicated. The guides stated that as Captain Marden was walking and not ski-ing, it must have taken him at least 4 days to arrive at the camp. M. F. Ryan. REVIEWS. Under the Italian Alps. By E. L. Broadbent. With a geographical essay by M. J. Newbiggin, D.Sc. Pp. 261. Illustrated and Map. London: Methuen, 1925. 8s. 6d. Alpine Valleys of Italy. By E. L. Broadbent. Pp. 244. Illustrated and Map. London: Methuen, 1928. 7s. 6d. THESE are two charmingly written accounts of unconventional wanderings, mostly on foot, through Tyrol and the Italian Alps. Miss Broadbent confined her footsteps to the lower slopes, and the two books do not contain any information which can assist the climber, but she has studied the natives and their characteristic traits and customs in a way which the average tourist seldom troubles to do. Both works are full of interesting local history of the various feudal families who held sway in those regions, and any visitors to those districts who are interested in that way would do well to include these two small volumes in their luggage. Miss Broadbent makes a short but, we are afraid, unconvincing incursion into the much-debated subject of Hannibal’s pass. There are a few errors of spelling. A translation of the nickname of the notorious Duchess of Tyrol plainly indicates that ‘ Maltausch’ should be ‘ Maultasch.’ Sensitive members of the Alpine Club will sustain a slight shock on seeing the name of the great pioneer of Alpine mountaineering spelt ‘ Balls’! Palma Giovanni should be Giovane and Livanallongo Livinallongo. In the photograph facing p. 142 (vol. 11), the mountain is the Grandes Jorasses, not Mont Blanc. The Alpine Club Register. Compiled by Arnold L. Mumm. Vol. 1, 1857 to 1863. Pp. 391. Price 25s. Vol. 2, 1864 to 1876. Pp. 375. Price 25e. Vol. 3, 1876 to 1890. Pp. 352. Price 21s. Edward Arnold. THESE three volumes contain records of the careers of the members of the Alpine Club in all walks of life up to the year 1890, which

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Reviews. 427 cannot fail to prove of great interest to their fellow members. They constitute also a very valuable addition to the archives of the Club. Although there are doubtless a few errors and omissions, it would be impertinent to criticise a work which must have entailed stupendous labour, and it is due to Mr. Mumm’s memory that a tribute should be paid to the unfailing patience with which Mr. Mumm collected the immense mass of facts and details contained in this interesting record of the Club’s members and their activities. It is difficult to bring to mind any other member of the Club who could have accomplished so monumental a task. It would be an interesting record to carry on, but it is to be feared that anyone who could have seen Mr. Mumm at work on this task would hesitate before embarking on it, to say nothing of the expense which it would entail. It must also be admitted that the chief interest of this work lies in the records of the pioneer members of the Club. Derniéres Campagnes. By Jean Coste. Pp. 214. I[llustrated. Gap. V. Vollaire, 1928. A YEAR ago we had occasion to review favourably the author’s first book, ‘ Mes quatre premiéres années de Montagne,’ published posthumously, ‘A.J.’ 89, 361-2. ° Now we get the sequel, again edited by Dr. Coste and illustrated mostly by means of his son’s photographs. The latter are excellent and somewhat unusual. The text is in the form of a diary—rather more so than in the com- panion volume. We are pleased to be able to renew our former praise. The narrative is again fresh and enthusiastic in character; Jean Coste was a true lover of the mountains, and there is little doubt that in a few years he would have become a great mountaineer, perhaps even a great Alpine writer. The last chapter, La Meve, is tragic; the frontispiece is a photograph of the mountain found in Jean Coste’s kit at the Promontoire: it was taken from the spot where the cross to the memory of Jean Coste and his companion is now erected. Derniéres Campagnes is a charming little work for the young mountaineer, and we can only repeat . . . ‘ the pity of it all.’ The Cairngorms. By Henry Alexander. viii -+ 218 pp., with 7 Panoramas, 44 Photographs, Diagrams, and Map. Scottish Mountaineering Club, Edinburgh. Price, Paper 78. 6d.; Cloth 10s. Tus beautifully illustrated volume is the fourth section to appear of the S.M.C.’s Guide to the Mountains of Scotland. The previous issues having been: General, containing articles on the Geology, Meteorology, Botany, etc., of the Scottish Hills as well as a revision of the late Sir H. T. Munro’s tables of all the hills in Scotland ex- ceeding 3000 ft. in height ; Ben Nevis, by Dr. W. Inglis Clark, which gives a thorough description of the highest mountain in Scotland and the climbing routes on its magnificent northern precipice ;

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428 Reviews. and Skye, by Messrs. Steeple, Barlow, and H. MacRobert, which deals exhaustively with the finest range of mountains in Great Britain—the Cuillin. The present volume maintains the high standard set by its pre- decessors and is a credit to the S.M.C. and Mr. Alexander. The district dealt with is that north of a line drawn from Dunkeld to Stonehaven and east of the Valleys of the Garry and the Spey, and it contains no fewer than 54 of the 276 mountains in Scotland which exceed 3000 ft. in height. Although there are many fine rock climbs to be had in the Cairngorms, particularly on Lochnagar, the district is one which appeals more to the hill walker and the lover of vast expanses of beautiful and unspoiled mountain land. The author has therefore had to deal with his subject in a different manner from that adopted in the previous issues of the Guide and in addition to describing the climbs and cross country routes he has devoted considerable space, but not too much, to the folklore and history of the district. The work has been admirably done and the book is a valuable addition to the topographical literature of Scotland. The illustrations are excellent, especially the frontispiece, ‘ The Path to Ben Macdhui,’ by Mr. H. C. Dugan, who has contributed many other beautiful photographs and has drawn the diagrams explaining the various panoramas. A valuable feature of the illustrations is that each, in addition to its title, has on the same page a brief description of where it was taken from and what it shows. The volume also contains a reduced copy of the drawing of the Indicator erected by the Cairngorm Club on the summit of Ben Macdhui in 1925. We congratulate the S.M.C. on the work and we look forward with pleasure to the publication of the remain- Ing sections of the Guide. The Art of Ski-ing.1 By Josef Dahinder. Pp. 218, with 154 illustrations. London: Faber and Gwyer, 1928. IF a man wants to wander about the hills in winter, the first thing for him to do is to learn to manage his ski without making himself look ridiculous ; and the best way for him to do so 1s to join a class under some competent instructor like Hannes Schneider. He will then learn to start in the correct style. In other words he will learn to execute the various evolutions with a minimum expenditure of energy. Further, being a man, or a woman for that matter—the case of children is different—he is certain to have received a fairly decent education, if he is only starting to learn after he is grown up ; and he will like to have some literature on the subject, rather than be wholly tied by rule of thumb. ‘ The Art of Ski-ing ’ will tell him what he wants to know while he is taking his instructional course, or while he is trying to pick up the rudiments without one; and it will do so concisely, and with plentiful and appropriate illustrations. That is as far as this book goes; and it is doubtful whether 1 Authorized English translation of Die Ski-Schule.

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Reviews. 429 members of the A.C., or of the Alpine Ski Club for that matter, will consider that the author has entirely fulfilled his contract, as indi- cated by the comprehensive title which he has appropriated for the English edition. If he really considers it necessary to bring in the word Art, Artistic Ski-ing would be more descriptive of the contents ; but why he has discarded literal translation of the German, and not called his book ‘ The Ski School,’ passes understanding. Suppose, for instance, that someone were to write a book, and call it ‘ The Art of Yachting.’ Would the reader expect him to stop short when he has given just sufficient information in the management of yachts to enable one to sail a boat on the Lake of Geneva, or some such place which requires no navigation whatsoever? If not, why should “The Art of Ski-ing’ take one no further than the practice slope ? To prove that title and contents are not consistent with one another, it is sufficient to point out that the author spends over two pages in telling one how to undergo the awful process of herring- boning ; without even a warning to the beginner that he should never do so. His advice that ‘ after a short spell it is a good thing to pause and breathe long and deeply ’ amounts to a plea of guilty to the charge of limiting his outlook to that of the practice slope. There is no possible reason why he should not do so if he wishes to. Criticism is directed against the English title—not the contents— and it is easy to show that this does not amount to a mere quibble. An ambitious title of this sort, unless played up to by the author, may render the book highly misleading to the beginners for whom itis manifestly written ; for does not the index start with the letter B, and is not the subject of wind-crust dismissed without a word of warning ? The author’s small attempts to digress into the mechanics of the ski are probably prompted by the conviction that beginners should, as far as possible, be enlightened as to the why’s and the wherefore’s. One would go even further, and suggest that for efficient teaching they should be properly understood by the teacher; and therein lies the difficulty. The mechanics of ski-ing are so mixed up with questions of skidding that the fact that the skidding of motor cars is as yet barely understood shows how difficult the subject really is. It does not seem to have been tackled by any skier capable of expounding reasonably lucid explanations of possibly plausible theories; but if some kind person would only succeed in getting at the root of the problem, and in concocting an intelligible story, teaching and learning would be made all the easier. No attempt will be made at further criticism, which would pro- bably end by entering into unimportant details; but it is hoped that enough has been said to show that the book is worth reading. It is worth buying for the illustrations alone, and on this account the publishers are to be congratulated as well as the author; but in this presumably enlightened age it ought not to be also open to the reviewer to commend them for issuing a book with rounded VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 2F

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480 Reviews. corners. Unfortunately many firms have something to learn from Messrs. Faber and Gwyer in this respect, even when they are con- cerned with guide and other books which have to be carried in the pocket—let alone those only intended for the shelf. Jubildumsschrift. Sporthaus, Fritach & Co., Ziirich. Tus well-known alpine outfit firm celebrates its twenty-fifth birthday by the issue of a pamphlet of much interest. It contains articles by outstanding men like Marcel Kurz, Dr. Oskar Hug, Carl Egger (the man of many friends), Dr. Loetscher, Dr. Tauber, and others. Dr. Tauber’s ‘ The Pioneers of the Alps’ is a short and interesting review of the growth of the craft from the days of Spescha, the recommendations of whose vade mecum, published in 1800, are scarcely behind modern practice, of de Saussure, of Weilenmann, of G. Studer, of Coaz down to Whymper and Freshfield and Coolidge. The whole article is of sustained interest ; enhanced by a series of portraits of pioneers including three survivors, Abraham Miiller, Ambros Supersaxo, and, last but not least, Christian Klucker. One plate reproduces a picture by Distell, the property of Professor Hugi of Berne, which I had not hitherto seen, entitled ‘F. J. Hugi and his companions in the Rottal,’ while another shows some of the explorer’s outfit. Incidentally, Dr. Tauber reminds us of the definition of guzdeless climber, ascribed to Emil Zsigmondy, viz. that the claimant to that title shall have either led or have been capable of leading on any part of the expedition. Some of us might have to toothcomb our memories ! The pamphlet is of permanent value and not merely propaganda. J.P. F. A.A.C. Bern. Bericht. 1927. THIS very active section possesses two huts, the Bietschhorn and the Engelhorn huts. It 1s good enough to grant the A.C. members equal rights in these in consideration of some slight assistance rendered in the rebuilding of the Engelhorn hut destroyed by an avalanche. A veteran club like ours naturally feels a sympathetic interest in the doings of these young academicals, numbering only eighty, to whose ranks we must look for the coming leaders of mountaineering. Their activities for the period covered by this report have been great, and include the ascents of 209 summits between 3000 and 4000 m., and 42 over 4000 m., while 9 of the expeditions were new. Their members include such well-known names as Amstutz, Chervet, Gassmann, Hug, Jenny (co-editor Die Alpen) Lauper, Oesterle, von Schumacher (now practising as a geologist in Mexico), Simon (the topographer), and others. J.P. F.

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Reviews. 481 Chronik der Wengernalp und Jungfrau-bahn. Vol. II. Tus very useful chronicle is edited by Herr Othmar Gurtner, the well-known authority on Oberland topography. The frontispiece is a coloured reproduction of a striking painting by Hodel of the new hotel on the Jungfraujoch projected against the Ménch. Herr Ernst Gertsch writes in detail of the adventurous first ascent of the S. face of the Jungfrau done on November 5, 1927, by himself and Fritz Fuchs; one of the last great ‘ problems.’ A very useful summary of all the routes, so far, made up the Jungfrau by my friend Dr. Hans Lauper, leader par excellence of the young academicals of Berne and Ziirich, is of great interest. He appears to ascribe to the Meyer party of 1811 the discovery of the route by the crest of the so-called Kranzbergegg, but it will be seen in the article on the Thioly-Pilkington routes in this JoURNAL, which is in reality mainly his article, that I am inclined to think that the 1811 party followed the valley to the 8S. of this great snow rib and only crossed its upper end to gain the Rottalsattel. It is an interesting point, as if the 1811 party did follow the crest, which is certainly the scientific route, then that route was lost? for about eighty years ! Between us we may have more to say in the next ‘A.J.’ I shall not come into conflict with Mr. Coolidge, who I see is by no means definite on the point. Dr. Lauper quotes the first repetition of the Hornby-Philpott ascent in 1865 of the N.W. aréte of the Silberhorn, made by the guides Rud. Brunner, Hans Gertsch, and Rob. Lauener in 1927. The ‘ tourist’s’” name is not given. Actually seventeen different routes have been made up the long- suffering mountain. Possibly a direct route up the E. rock face could be effected. J.P. F. Les Cabanes du Club Alpin Suisse en 1927. Edited by the Central Committee of the Swiss Alpine Club. Illustrated. Lausanne. 1928. TuHIs is a most useful work of reference. The plan adopted consists of a fine illustration of each of the 106 S.A.C. huts (besides huts rented by the S.A.C. for its members) on one page, with a portion of the Siegfried map photographed and provided with a route tracing from the nearest centre or centres on the opposite page. 2 On the subject of ‘lost’ routes, I had a letter the other day from Fynn in reply to mine telling him of my traverse of Bifertenstock, on which he is the great authority. After making the ascent by one of the extraordinary routes from the Biferten glacier, he descended, as I did, by the fantastic E. aréte, and mentions that that route had also been lost for many years. The notable case of a ‘lost’ route is the ascent of the Dent Blanche by the S. aréte accomplished by Peter Knubel and Mr. Gardiner. ‘lost’ for many years.

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482 Reviews. The letterpress gives the altitude of the hut, the date of con- struction, etc., the number of bunks available, whether there is @ guardian or not, and the distance in hours from the valley centres. In addition there is a list of the principal mountains or passes accessible from the hut, as well as references to the hut occurring in S.A.C. publications. We have nothing but praise for the book, but should like to add that the ‘times’ given are often tremendously, sometimes impossibly, fast. A very useful feature is that there are numerous slips inter- leaved at the end of the book to receive future photographs of future huts when taken and constructed respectively, and so keep the work up to date. It is to be hoped that this book will be found in all Swiss Alpine centres, as it is certainly not of the size to be incorporated into one’s pocket-book, or even into anything smaller than an ‘ Innovation’ trunk ! We mountaineers owe much to the Swiss Club. When I started hard climbing, soon fifty years ago, their typical huts were the old Guggi, Gleckstein, Schwarzegg, Stockje (soon to be smashed up by an avalanche),and Matterhorn huts. One was content to sleep on more or less doubtful straw covered with board-like blankets. Of course, at that age one could sleep anywhere, inside or outside. Now I turn over the fine plates of this album and note what we owe to the management of the Swiss Club. All the huts above mentioned have either been abandoned or renovated out of all knowledge. Instead of the old wooden or rough stone huts we have quite palatial masonry constructions. This summer I slept in the Rotondo, Basodino, Adula, and Ponteglias huts, besides in divers worse places. The Basodino is the most recent pattern and must have cost nearly £3000. It is a fine double-story house built of solid squared masonry, lined with larch, provided with spring mattresses, washing arrangements, ample cooking utensils, and will sleep sixty- five people. The new huts are financed by a grant of 50 to 60 per cent. from the Central Committee, the owning section undertaking re- sponsibility for the balance. It must mean for the smaller sections considerable self-sacrifice. The huts are built, after careful consideration, at such points that the young generation can scarcely realize what they are spared in preliminary approach, and how their energies are conserved for the arduous part of the expedition. Year by year the Swiss Club covers more ground, until now it owns over 100 fine huts, besides other rented quarters. I passed the hut now being built at the S. end of the Kistenpass plateau to serve, inter alia, for the very interesting and fantastic Bifertenstock to which my unforgotten friend Mumm drew attention in a paper in the JouRNAL, saving quite two of the

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Reviews. 488 three hours from the Muttsee hut to the start of the E. aréte. Another useful hut is that building for the awkwardly placed Oberalpstock. The constant question before the S.A.C. Committee is that of overcrowding. At the week-ends in the summer, and almost every day in August, the overcrowding is such as to exclude proper rest, however good the hut. I have long been of opinion that the S.A.C. would be justified in reserving its huts entirely for its own members. The subscription is very moderate, and every visitor to the High Alps should consider it a privilege to join a club that has done so much for the climbing fraternity. I am, of course, aware that the existing regulations do give a preference to a member in the tariff and in the right to sleeping quarters, and the question of further restriction can safely be left in the experienced and capable hands of the Central Committee. The whole album is very interesting and is a monument to the splendid work of the great Swiss Club. J.P. F. Appalachian Mountain Club Bulletin, June, 1928, Tue work of this famous old Boston Club is, of course, mostly concerned with its own ranges, and the present number contains interesting papers on ‘ Ski-ing on Katahdin in Maine’ and on ‘ Trails in the Catskills.’ Mr. Allen Carpe, A.C., well known as one of the most capable members of the memorable expedition to Mt. Logan, which will long remain as a signal triumph of careful preparation, superb organization, and skilful and tireless execution by the leader, Captain MacCarthy, who eventually led his party to the summit, contributes a further report? on ‘New Climbs in the Cariboo Mountains of B.C.,’ when first ascents were made of Mt. Welcome and Kiwa peak. Mr. Jefferson describes and illustrates well an ascent of Mt. Louis, one of the difficult rock climbs in the Canadian Alps, first conquered by the redoubtable Captain MacCarthy with Konrad Kain.‘ Miss Miriam O’Brien, well known for the difficult work she has done in the Mont Blanc group and elsewhere, describes the conquest by herself with the guides Alfred Couttet and Georges Cachat of the very difficult, much-courted Aiguille de Roc du Grépon. She has since shown, by leading a party of ladies on the Grépon itself, that she can climb difficult rocks without professional assistance. Mr. R. L. M. Underhill contributes a paper on ‘ Roping down,’ - which is fast becoming an art by itself not necessarily confined to mountaineering. It is, in fact, conceivable that it may be pre- judicial to the development of strictly legitimate descent, if a limita- ® See his paper, A.J. 87, 63, and Professor Chamberlin’s note, p. 85. 4 See A.J. 32, 68, for Fynn’s ascent.

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484 Reviews. tion of the legitimate could be set. The old method, Fig. 7, has been long abandoned, as the easy loss of control led to fatal accidents. The tendency is to pay so much attention to absolute control that one has difficulty in descending at all! Mr. Underhill has shown himself a very enterprising and competent mountaineer—not the least commendable of his work being the organization with Herbert Carr of a meet of members of the Appalachian Club at Bricolla and Arolla, while he 1s also Chairman of the Committee of Publication of the Club. Mr. Allen Carpe and Professor Chamberlin, in objecting to the rejection by the Geographical Board of Canada of the names pro- posed by them for their new summits in the Cariboo Mts. in favour of the names of prominent politicians, would appear to be justified, particularly as the Board is said to fail to indicate clearly to which summits these names are to belong ! Altogether a great number. J. P. F. Familien-Statistik und Geschichtliches tber Zermatt. By St. Kronig. Pp. 356. Papstliche Theodosius Buchdruckerei. Schwyz. 1928. Price 7 fr. 20 cente. It is a well-known fact that many of the worst crimes in history have been committed in the name of Religion. This book sins in the same good cause. We do not know what its object can be save perhaps an attempt to vilify the benefactors of Zermatt—the Seiler family—because at one time or another some of its members may not have seen eye to eye, in matters temporal, with some of the priesthood of Zermatt and its neighbourhood. The list and genealogy of the Zermatt families is interesting, and had the author been wise enough to have commenced and closed his book with this, he would have secured, doubtless, some apprecia- tive readers. He is not wise and has preferred to “ prove ’—perhaps to his own ultimate discomfiture—that the Seilers have achieved nothing to the benefit of the valley or its inhabitants. We do not profess to any great knowledge of ‘ progress’ in Zermatt, but there is one factor known to all which will at once stultify Herr St. Kronig: In the first edition of Baedeker, 1844, Zermatt and the Nikolaithal secure no mention. When the late Alexander Seiler opened (in his own name) the ‘ Monte Rosa,’ in 1855, the village became famous at once. This is not the place to champion or praise the Seiler family; that has been done already and at length by generations of grateful mountaineers and visitors of all nationalities. In times of trouble no inhabitant or visitor has appealed to that family in vain. Zermatt has progressed and flourished by the presence of the Seilers, despite the obstructions and follies of some of its Communes and Presidents. True, the latter are (or were) responsible for the scheme of a railway up the Matterhorn, for the existence of the eye-sore on the Gorner Grat, and for—the local orchestra. Diving with reluctance deeper into the book, we come to a ‘ list’

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The Alpine Club Library. 485 of first ascents and accidents. It is very carelessly compiled, and the author, giving no references, appears to prefer plagiarism or error to acknowledgements. Mistakes and misprints exist without number. We will content ourselves with quoting a few. Mr. Cockin was not an Alleingdnger when he lost his life so unfortunately on the Weisshorn in 1900. His companions were two well-known members of the Alpine Club, and it was in a brave attempt to fetch help for them that Cockin fell (p. 272). ’ In the Matterhorn accident of 1865, ‘four’ bodies were not seen by eye-witnesses viewing the final resting-place of the victims (p. 261). The body of Lord Francis Douglas was never found, as the author himself points out on the following page. The ‘ Borckhardt’ accident was very different from that related; while the ‘Chester’ accident appears to be a belated—and clumsy—attempt to whitewash the Zermatt guides concerned. As for ‘ Die Entwicklung Zermatt’s’ and its Gasthéfe, we will dismiss this as an advertisement which cannot but benefit the ‘Seiler’ hotels. The local tales at the end do not possess even esoteric interest. The book may appeal to the vulgar, but enough—or the author will think we are taking him seriously. THE ALPINE CLUB LIBRARY. The following works have been added to the Library :— Club Publications. Akad. Alpenclub Bern. 22. Jahresbericht. 9 < 54: pp. 32: ill. 1928 —— Nachtag z. Clubfiihrer d.d. Engelhérner. 7} X 44: pp. 20: ill. 1928 (la) Akad. Alpenver. Berlin. 23. u. 24. Jahresbericht, 1925-7. 94 x 6}: pp. 47. 1927 (lo) Akad. Alpenver. Miinchen. 35. Jahresb. 1926-7. 8} x 5}: pp. 56: plates. 1928 Akad. Skiclub Miinchen. Jahresbericht 1926-7. 9 x 5}: pp. 41. 1928 In mem. Kar! Gruber, with portrait. (15b) Alpenver. Donauland, Nachrichten. 12} x 9}: pp. 177. 1927 (1b) Alpine Club of Canada. Gazette. 6} x 5: pp. 36. 1927 Appalachian Mountain Club. Bulletin 20. 7} x 4}: pp. 206. 1926-7 — Bulletin, vol.21. 73 x 5: pp. 218. 1927-8 (4) —— yitre Vol. 16. 9 X 6: pp. 567: plates. 1924-6 —— The A.M.C. White Mountain Guide. 7th ed. 6 X 34: pp. xi, 528: maps. Boston, 1928. $3. Associated Outdoor Clubs of America. Mountain Magazine, vol.6. 93 x 7: ill. Pleasantville, 1927-8 This Association continues the work of the Associated Mountaineering Clubs of N. America. This is vol. 1, previous vols. being the Bulletin of the Mountaineering Clubs. —— Annual directory number. 10 X 74: pp. 31. July 1928 C.A.F. Commission des travaux scientifiques. Procés-verbal. Janvier 1927 —— Guides et porteurs au ler Juillet 1928. Région de Pyrénées: Region d’Alpes. 2 large sheets. (6) ——— La Montagne. 1927

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436 The Alpine Club Lnbrary. C.A.F. Groupe de Haute Montagne. Annuaire, No. 3. 8} < 7}: pp. 110: plates. 1928 This contains the Index to first three volumes. — Isére. Circulaire trimestrielle. 3me année, no. 1. -84 xX 54: pp. 16. Oct. 1927 (7) —— Lyon. Revue Alpine, 46. 93 x 6}: pp. xv, 355: ill. 1927 —— Section vosgienne. 47e année, No.1. 8} x 54: pp. 16. Janvier—juin 1928 C.A.I. Bollettino 62. 94 x 63: gr 392: ill. 1925 (9) —— Rivista mensile. 9 x 6 1927 Bergamo. Diario dell’ alpinista. Guida rapida alle capanne e rifugi alpini. Anno 6°. 5 xX 3}: pp. 165. 1928 Busto Arsizio. E. Santi, Itinerari skiistici della Val Formazza. 6 x 44: p. 39: map, ill. 1927 A good little guide, well illustrated. The district is ae reached from Domodossola. (10) Milano. (11) ——Napoli. Bollettino 6. 9} x 6}: pp. 48. 1927 —— Sez. ossolana. L'Alpe. Anno 6. 9} x 6}: pp. 48. 1927 a eee (Soc. Alp. d. Giuglie). Alpi giuglie, 28. 93 x 6: pp. 23: ill. 1927 (12) —— Verona. Bollettino 7. 94 x 6}: BP. 60. 1927 Vicenza. Bollettino degli Alpinisti Vicentini. 9} x 6}: pp. 28: plates. Natale, 1927 Nuove ascensioni sulle piccole dolomiti: gruppo di Brenta: Pasubio. —— — La Canzone dei Crodaioli (music). 10 X 7: pp. 8. Vicenza, Scuola vicentina di roccia, 1927 C.A.S. Assocn. British Members. 7} x 5: pp. 66. 1928 (24) —— Die Alpen. 10 x 7: pp. 480: ill. 1927 —— —— Kleine mitteilungen : pp. 241. —— Les Cabanes du C.A.S. en 1927. 8 x 11}: pp. xxiv, maps and 106 plates. Lausanne, 1928 Finely illustrated. —— Taschen-Kalender fiir 1928. 6 x 4: pp. xii, 320: plates. urich, Tschopp, 1928 — Basel. Jahresbericht fiir 1925. 65. Vereinsjahr. 9 x 6: pp.72. 1928 In mem. Emil Steiger. — Chaussy, Leysin. Echo de Chaussy. 4me année. 9} x 6}. 1928 — Chaux-de-Fonds. Bulletin annuel, no. 36. 8 x 5¢: pp. 76: pl. 1927 Diablerets. Chansonnier des section romandes. Edité sous les auspices de la Section des Diablerets. 7 x 4}: pp. (viii), 195. La usanne, Foetisch, 1927 —— Section Genevoise. Catalogue dela bibliothéque. 8} x 6}: pp. vii, 162. ~ 1927 —— —— Guide de la chaine frontiére entre la Suisse et la Hte. Savoie. Vol. 1. Massif Oche-Bise, Arvouin-Bellevue, Ouzon-Grange, Géant Hautforts. 64 X4: pp. viii, 124: ill. Geneve, Kundig, 1928. Fr. 4. —— Moléson. Bulletin mensuel. 1.année,no.8. 9} x 6}: pp.8. Oct. 1927 — Monte Rosa. La Cordée. 94 x 63: pp. 100. 1927 —— Pilatus. Bibliothek-Katalog. 9 x 6: pp. 61. 1928 — Der Pilatus. 5. Bd. 9 x 6: pp. 152: ill. Luzern, 1927 — Touren Programm. 6 X 4: pp. 4. 1928 C.A. Siciliano. Sicilia. Rivista mensile. Anno2. 11 x 7}: pp. 80: ill. 1927 Catalonia. SButlleti del G. E. Juventad Catalana. Any 3, no. 13. 9 X 6}: p. 20: ill. Dec. 1927 Climbers’ Club. Bulletin N.S., vol.2,no.2. 9} x 6: pp. 83-114. Nov. 1927 —— Journal. N.S., vol. 3. 94 x 6: plates. _ 1928 (2) Club académique frangais d’alpinisme, 9 x 6. 1927 (5a) Club alpin belge. Bulletin. 10 x 64: pp. 200: ill. 1927 —— C.A. Belge. Statuts. 4 x 6}: pp. 7. . 1927

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The Alpine Club Library. 437 soa alpino Academico Italiano. Annuario 1924-26. 93 x 6%: pp. 6&4: (13) Club suisse des femmes alpinistes. Nos montagnes. 7e année. 11] X 8}: pp. 164: ill. 1927 Deutscher Alpenverein Berlin e. V. (Bericht). 9 x 5}. 1926-7 Deutscher Gebirgsverein ftir das Jeschkengebirge. 38. Jahrbuch. 9 x 6: pp. 212: ill. Reichenberg, 1928 (14b) D.u.0e.A.-V. Mitteilungen. 124 x 9}: pp. vi, 290. Miinchen, 1927 —— Verfassung und Verwaltung. Ein Handbuch z. Gebrauch f. d. Vereins- leitung u. d. Sektionen. 4. Aufl. Dr. J. Moriggl. 8} x 5}: pp. xv, 356. Miinchen, 1928 (14c) Zeitechrift. Bd. 58. Geleitet v. Hanns Barth. 10} x 7}: pp. 298: plates. Miinchen, 1927 —— Akad. Sektion Wien. Jahresbericht, 1926. 9 x 6: pp. 79: contains library catalogue. -—— Austria. Taschenbuch fiir Alpenvereins-Mitglieder. 8 x 5: pp. xix, 89. 1928 (15) —— —— Nachrichten. 1927 —— —— Militargagisten - Bergsteiger - Vediieie Satzungen. 65} x 4}: pp. 1 Wien, 1921 — private {i Breisgau. Nachrichten. Vierteljahrlich. 84 x 5}. 1927 —— Hannover. Festschrift z. 75. Geburtetage ihres 1. Vorsitzenden d. Herrn Professor Dr. Karl Arnold. 9 x 5$: pp. 57-73: portr., ill. ‘Marz, 1928 — Kufstein. 650 Jahre Alpenvereinsektion Kufstein 1877-1927. 9} x 7: pp. 214: plates. (Innsbruck, Wagner, Se —— —— Tatigkeits-Bericht. 9 x 54: pp. 31: ill. 1927 —— Pfalz, Ludwigshafen. Festschrift i Feier d. 40jéhrigen Bestehens. 104 x 7: pp. 107: ill. 1928 ichte d. Sektion: Vereinsleben: Griindner: Belshazer Hacquet, Erschliesser d. Ostalpen. The Festschrift is chiefly devoted to the life and _ work of Hacquet, and reproductions of old views of the Glockner are given —— Pforzheim. Nachrichten. Monatlich. 11} x 9: pp. 48. 1927 Federacion Vasco-Navarra d’alpinismo. Pyrenaica. Annales 1~2. 9} x 6}: pp. 84, 140: ill. 1926, 1927 (15c) Fédération Sociétés pyrénéistes. Bulletin pyrénéen. 9} x 64. 1927 (17) Fell and Rock Climbing Club. Journal, vol. 7, no. 3. 8 x 54: pp. 446: plates. 1927 Foreningen til ski-idraettens fremme. Arbok 1927. 8} x 5}: a ill. Oslo, 1927 Gesellschaft alpiner Biicherfreunde, Miinchen. Berg und Buch. Zeitschrift fiir alpine Biicherkunde und alpines Schrifttum. 1. Jahrgang, Heft 1. 9% x 6}: pp. 30. 1928 (17b) Harvard Mountaineering. Vol. 1, Nos. 1-2. 9 x 6: pp. 70: ill. ~ Cambridge, Mass., June 1927, June 1928 In search of Mt. Clearwater: Mt. Morgan and Tetons : Lyell Pks. a Mt. Forbes: Dolomites: O. Field, Unclimbed peaks in Alaska : A. J. Osthesmer (III), Jasper to the Tsar: D. Duncan, Mt. Lyell Peak e H, Palmer, Clearwater Group: B. B. Gilman, Climbs in Jasper Park. Karpathenverein. Turistik, pinismus, Wintersport. 93 x 6%: pp. 192: ill. Keamark, 1927 Ladies’ Alpine Club. 74 x 5: pp. 45: plates. 1928 Aig. du Roc de Grépon: First winter ascent Ober Gabelhorn fr. Mountet. First impressions of Dolomites. Mazama, Vol. 9, no. 12. 10 x 6%: pp. 136: ill. Dec. 1927 Mountain Club of South Afriea. Annual no. 30. 83 x 5F: pp. 174:-ill, 1927 O. L. Brown, Kilimanjaro, ascent 1927, with W. C. West and Miss Sheila Macdonald (the first woman to reach the summit) : Mrs. C. Ross, Three trips to Ruwenzori: W.C. West, The mountains of the Moon: M. Hallack, Keeroms- - berg: J. A. Whitworth, Bailey’s Peak: K. Cameron, Langebergen.

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488 The Alpine Club Inbrary. Mountaineers. The Mountaineer, vol.20,no.1. 11 x 7}: pp. 73: ill. Seattle, Deo. 1927 (3) Die Naturfreunde. Alpinistengilde im Touristen-Verein. Tatigkeitbericht. 94 x 7: pp. 37, 26. 1924, 1925 Nederlandsche Alpen-Vereeniging. 25. jaargang. 94 x 63: pp. 313: ill. Rotterdam, 1927 Tatra: Pyrenees. (18b) New Zealand Alpine Club. Journal 1-2. 1925-6 Den norske Turistforenings Arbok. 9 x 64: pp. 268: plates. 1928 This club celebrated its 60th year in 1927. An account of the celebrations occurs in this year- -book. The climbers’ guide to the Horungtinder is — ted here. There are articles on Jotunheim in former days, ski-ing o igh glaciers 40 years ago, ascent of Galdhopiggen, Aiguilles of Mont Blanc in 1926, eto. Norsk Tinderlub. Foerer for bestigninger i Horungtinderne. 8} x 6: pp. 18: ill. [1928) es Oesterr. Alpenkiub. Ocsterr. Alpenzeitung. 49. Bd. 10} x 7}: PP. ae (20) patalara: 84 <x 6: pp. 282: ill. Madrid, 1927 Pinnacle Club. Rules, etc. 5 x 4: pp. 16. 1928 (21) Rucksack Club. Journal. 8} x 5}: pp. 129-249: plates. 1928 ——— Songs of the mountaineers. Collected and edited by John Hirst. 73 x 5: pp. viii, 124. Manchester, Corner (1922) A good collection, mostly of parodies. ——— Handbook for 1928. 5 x 3}: pp. 20. Schweiz. Akad. Skiklub. Der Schnee-Hase. Jahrbuch. No. 1, 1924-7. Schriftleitung Walter Amstutz. 11} x 8: pp. 36: ill. Miirren, 1928 H. Hoek, Skilaufen, Skifahren, Skispringen: Rennen England-Schweiz, with portraits: Universitéte-Skiwettkimpfe. Scottish Mountaineering Club. Guide. The Cairngorms by Henry Alexander. 84 x 5}: pp. viii, 218: map, plates. 1928 (25) —— Journal. 9 x 6 1926 (26) Sierra Club. Bulletin. 9 x 6. 1927 Ski-Club Garlus. Jubiliums-Schrift. Dr. Joachim Mercier, Aus der Urge- achichte des schweiz-Skilaufes, 1893-1928. 9 x 6: pp. 111: pls. 1928 Ski Club of Great Britain. British Ski Year Book, vol. 4, no. 8. Edited by Arnold Lunn. 8} x 5}: pp. 266: pls. xbridge, King & Hutchings, 1927. 10s. History of ski-ing in Sweden: Ski in Victoria: Avalanche at Ziirs: The Arlberg School: Gelandesprung: ete. —— Ski Notes and Queries. No. 33-36. 84 x 54: ill. October 1927-8 Slovenska planinsko drustvo. Planinski Vestnik. 27. 28. leto. 94% x 6): pp. 288: 144 pls. Ljubljana, 1927, 1928 (22) Societa alpina friulana. In Alto. Cronaca. 9 x 6: pp. vi, 48: ill. Udine, 1927 Société des grimpeurs des Alpes. Annuaire. 9} x 6: pp. 84. Grenoble, 1928 —— Sports d’hiver, etc. 9} x 6}: pp. 44. Année 1927 Tatra Club. Wierchy rocznik poswiecony grom i goralszczyznie. Organ pol. tow. tatrzanskiego. Rok piaty. 10 x 7: pp. 230: ill. Krakow, 1927 (Summits. Fifth year of Year-book of Pol. Tatra Club.) A well-illustrated annual on mountaineeri Gory polskie-montagnes de Pologne. 7} xX 103: pp. 8: 32 en Krakow, 1925 New Books. Alpiner Biicherfreunde E.V., Gesellschaft. 6 x 44: pp.16. Miinchen, 1927 Alps. Nomielimiti delle grandi parti del sistema alpino. Relazione d. Comm. d. Congr. Geogr. Ital. 1924. Ex L’ Universo, an. 7,num. 9. Settembre 1926 De raat a i, H Petits hommes, grandes montagnes. Traduit par E. Gaillard. 74 X 5}: pp. 198: plates. Chambery, Dardel, 1927

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The Alpine Club Library. 489 Amrhein, Max. Halt oderstirb. 7} x 5: pp. 48: ill. Miinchen, Stook (1928) A weird work on @ glacier accident. Ashby, Douglas. Things Seen in Switzerland in Summer. A description of a wonderful country.... 5} x 4: pp. 158: plates. London, Seeley Service, 1928. 3s. 6d. A pleasant little work of description, well illustrated. Austria. Alpin-Vorschrift fiir die dsterr. Bundesgendarmerie nebst einem Anhang iiber die Zentralmeldestelle f. alpine Unfalle in Wien u. d. Instruktion f. alpine Rettungspatrouillen d. Bundesheeres. Verfasser Georg Bilgeri Bre x 6}: pp. vii, 128: ill. Wien, Gendarmerie- Zentraldirektion (1927) Alp. Gefahren, Lawinen, Steinschlag, Gewitter, Kilte, u.s.w.: Fels- u. Grastechnik : Anwendung d. Seiles: Gletscher- u. Eistechnik : Skilauftech- nik: Gebirgs-Ausrtistung: Ernahrung: Zurechtfinden: Notsignal: Ret- tungsmittel: Schutz d. Alpenflora: Ausriistung d. Gendarmerie. Baedeker. Switzerland, together with Chamonix and the Italian Lakes. 27th revised edition. 6 x 4: pp. xlix, 618: maps. Leipzig, Baedeker ; London, Allen & Unwin, etc., 1928. 15s. Barth, Hanns. Grdden und seine Berge. Buch der Erinnerung und Dankbar- heit. 9 x 63: pp. 188: ill. Miinchen, Bruckmann (1927) —— Der Hochtourist in den Ostalpen. 5. Aufl. Purtechelleru. Hess. 5. Bd. Zentrale Ostalpen vom Brenner Ostwirts. 6 x 4: pp. 359: sketch maps and pls. Leipzig, Bibliogr. Institut, 1928. 10 R.M. Basterfield, George, and A.R.Thomson. Crags for climbing in and around Great e by G. Basterfield, and Rock climbing in Buttermere by A. R. Thomson. A Climber’s Guide. 8 x 5: pp. 68: map, plates. Barrow-in-Furness, Barrow Printing Co. (1928) Fifth and last volume of Fell and Rock Climbing Club’s Guide to English Lake District. Bell, Gertrude. The letters of Gertrude Bell. 2 vols. 9} x 5}: pp. xiii, vii, 791: plates. London, Benn, 1927. 42s. Bellows, William. A traverse of the Matterhorn. In Blackwood’s Mag., vol. 123, no. 847. 93 x 52: pp. 90-7. January 1928 — Der Berg meiner Sehnsucht. Zermatt und das Matterhorn. Eine Traversierung. 74 <x 43: pp. 40: pls. Kilchberg, Wehbrli, 1928 (27) Der Berg. 5. Bd. 114 x 8: pp. 389: ill. 1927 (28) Der Bergkamerad. Bd.4. 12} x 9: pp. 419, 416: ill. 1927 (29) Der Bergsteiger. Bd. 5. 114 x 94: pp. 583: ill. 1927 (30) Allgemeine Bergersteigerzeitung. .5. 17x 114: pp. 416: ill. 1927 Berti, Antonio. Guida dei monti d'Italia. Le Dolomiti Orientali. Guida edita sotto gli auspici d. sez centrale d. C.A.I. per cura d. Sez. di Venezia. 6 x 4: pp. 902: maps, ill. Milano, Treves, 1928 Bibliography. Bulletin bibliographique des alpes francgaises pour 1927. In Rev. géogr. alp. t. 16,2. 10 x 63: pp. 533-42. 1928 Blache, Jules. Volume montagneux et érosion fluviale. In Rev. géogr. alp. t. 16,2. 10 x 62: pp. 455-94. 1928 Blanchard, Raoul. Les phases du glacier de la Durance a Sisteron. In Rev. géogr. alp. t. 16,2. 10 x 6%: pp. 519-24. 1928 Bland, G. Edith. The national park of Switzerland. From Smithsonian Report for 1926. 93% x 6: pp. 495-503: pls. Washington, 1927 Blodigs Alpen-Kalender fiir das Jahr 1928. 3. Jahrg. 94 x 7: plates Miinchen, Miiller, 1927 Le Blond, Mrs. Aubrey. Day in, day out. 8} x 5}: pp. 264: portrait, pls. London, Lane, 1928 Bodenstein, Gustav: Geleitet von. Aus der Ostmark. Ein Buch von Land- echaft und alpinen Leben, Kultur und Geschichte. 10 x 7: pp. 411, 319: plates. Wien, Verlag d. Wiener Festausschusses d. D.u.0.A.-V., 1927 Contents : —E. Oberhummer, Wien als Alpenstadt: L. Kober, Aufbau d. Al H. Barth, Voral H. Giittenberger, Die Wachau : F. Benesch, sahens u. Rax: ean Gesiuse: 2. Mayer, Hochschwab: H.

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440 The Alpine Club Inbrary. Fritschel, Dachstein: H. Wodl, Schladminger Tauern: H. Pichl, Karnische Haupt-Kette. Boeck, Kurt. Himalaya Lieder und Bilder. 13} x 10: pp. 74: 20 p p-p. Leipzig, aealirg (1927) Fine mountain plates with verse descriptions. Boliettino del Comitato glaciologico italiano. No.8. 10} x 7}: pp. 207: ill. Torino, Tip. sociale tor., 1928 Contains :—U. Monterin, Variazioni periodiche: C. F. Camoletto, Cam- pagna glaciol. Alpi Marittime 1927: Af. Bossolasco, Ghiacciaio d. Ruitor: C. Nangerons, Ghiacciai d. Bassa Valtellina: B. Castiglions, Ghiacciai d. Venoste Orient.: J. Conct, Ghiacciai d. Alpi Aurune e Pusteresi. Bordeaux, Général P. E. A travers les Alpes Militaires. Quelques souvenirs. Ex. Mém. Acad.delphinale. 8} x 54: pp.77. Grenoble, Saint-Bruno, 1928 Braunstein, Josef. caer i Wagner und die Alpen. Ex Nachr. A.-V. Donau- land. 9 x 5}: 16. Wien, 1928 Bressy, M. Tuners Sciistici di Valle Po e Valle Varaita sotto gli mae dello Soi Club e della Sez.‘ Monviso ’ del C.A.I. 6} x 42: pp. 47: Saluzzo, Tip. oper., 1928 Broadbent, Ellinor Lucy. Alpine valleys of Italy from San Remo to Lake Orta. With illustrations from photographs by Margaret E. Broadbent. 7} x 4}: pp. (x), 244: pls. London, Methuen, 1928 er, Georg. Bibliographie zur Ortanamenkunde der Ostalpenlander. 83 x 52: pp. 36. Miinchen, Stock, 1927 Buzzetti, Pietro. Il Passo dello Spluga e Strade Chiavennasche. C.A.I. Chiavenna. 84 x 6: pp.45. Como, Caccia, 1928. L.5 Calendario “ excelsior.’”” Anno VI. 14 x 9: pp.6: 12 pls. Novara, Dolci, 1928 Carrier, Michael. Notice biographique sur Jacques Balmat dit ‘‘ Mont-Blanc.”’ 8} x 54: pp. 20: portrait. Annecy, Imprim. commerc., 1925 A reprint from the 1854 original. Castellani, Umberto. I] disegno topografico delle Rocce. In L’Universo, anno 9, num. 4. 9$ x 6}: pp. 335-42: mape. April 1928 The maps show various ways of representing mountains. Chamberlin, Rollin T. Carriboo Mountains, a correction. In Bull. Geogr Soc. Phil., vol. 26, no. 2. 10 x 6%: pp. 121-2. A 1928 Chorley, Katharine C. Hills and ee Wood engravings by t Pilkington. 7 x 5: pp. (wil Viii), 232 : London, etc., Dent, 1928. 6s. Cairngorms, English eee aaa: Cloeter, Hermine. Glocknerreise einst und jetzt. In Osterreich, Nr. 1. 1d x 8}: pp. 19-24: ill. Wien, Oest. Verkehrawerbung, 1927 Collet, Léon W. The structure of the alps. 8} x 54: pp. xii, 289: ill. London, Arnold, 1827 Corbin, P., et N. Oulianoff. Schistes cristallins des deux versants de la Vallée de Chamonix. Ex Bull. Soo. géol.fr. 10 x 6}: pp. 267-74. 1928 Corsica. L’alpinisme en Corse. In Echo touristique de la Corse. 2e année. 10 x 6}. 1928 Bocoa Bianca, Capo al Dente, Col de Tartagine, etc. Coste, Jean. Derniéres campagnes. Notes et impressions d’Alpinisme. 74 X 54: pp. 214: pls. Gap, Vollaire, 1928 Dahinden, Josef. The art of ski-ing. 7} x 4}: pp. 218: ill. London, Faber & Gwyer, 1928 A translation of Die Ski-Schule. Darwin, Francis Sacheverall. Travels in Spain and the East, 1808-10. 7} x 5: pp. 54: portrait. Cambridge University Press, 1927. 6s. This diary is interesting for various mountain ascents : ‘February 1809. I prevailed upon Mr. Mackinnon to caine me part of the way (Sierra Nevada, aloe which he did at 5 o’clock next mo o ascend the moun- tain, we passed through woods and rocks: ae et at with a bottle of laudanum, nails in my shoes, a bammer and stick—I too took leave of my friend and the guide at the beginning of the snow at midday, when they returned to Granada. The object of this undertaking was to explore the original furmation of the motntain, 45 I per- ceived near the summit a part of the rock exposed like @ smal) precipice. After the first three or four hours ciimbing through the snow, with a burning sun over my head

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The Alpine Club Library. 441 —which I kept cool by a piece of fice in my mouth—with feet and body almost frozen from the repeated falls in the snow—sometimes ten or fifteen feet where the footing was false—the frozen region gradually became harder, and occasionally would bear one foot, sometimes both—until about the fifth hour, when it was perfectly hard and firm ice. Now it became steeper and more abrupt as I crawled up a ridge of the mountain chain, breaking holes with the hammer at long steps from each other for my feet. Had it not been for the opium, which I took every ten or minutes, I might have been hurled down the steep upon the ice with dreadful velocity for many miles—as it appeared—into the bosom of the earth, or into a valley of eternal winter. Still resolved to proceed, I pushed forward as the evening advanced, knowing that it would be moonlight: but clouds collected, and with difficulty I could just distinguish by my watch that it was 9 o’clock when I attained the foot of the wished-for granite precipice. ere—within one hundred feet of the highest part of this chain of mountains—I rested and took more laudanum. Now the most awful hours I ever witnessed began. Darkness prevailed below, and thunder shook the rocks. There was some light above from an obscured moon. ... I was kept there by the lightning until 3 o’clock in the morning, and, on descending, narrowly escaped being shot by some guerillas. . .. At1l o’clock in the morning I breakfasted in Granada—bringing back a piece of granite and an empty bottle of laudanum. ‘September 1809. On expressing a desire to ascend Olympus, the Governor ordered ten of his horse-soldiers to accompany us as a security against the banditti. In five hours we came to the beginning of the snowy region, and the guides would not proceed. We were gratified with very fine views. “October. We were nine hours in ascendir:g (Mount Ida, Troy) and then did not attain the summit by two hours more—in consequence of the snow. The view was the grandest picture we ever witnessed.’ D’Egville, A.H. Modern ski-ing. 84 x 5}: pp. xvi, 173: ill. London, Arnold, 1927. 12s. 6d. De Espana, Arnaldo. Amenidas. Serie de doce charlas emitadas en Madrid desde los Estudios de Union-Radio. 7} x 5: pp. (ix), 197. | Madrid, 1928 Contains inter alia: De re alpina; Participacion espanola en los Alpes. Desmonts, Oreste. Les Dolomites. Ouvrage orné de 8 aquarelles de Jung- reuthmayer et de 209 héliogravures. 13 x 94: pp. 112: 217 plates. Paris, Alpina, 1928 The aquarelles are rough, but the other plates are excellent. A finely produced book. Elsner, Eleanor. The romance of the Basque country and the Pyrenees. 8? x 54: pp. xi, 319: plates. London, Jenkins (1927). 108. 6d. Faes, Henry, et P. L. Mereanton. Le manuel du skieur suivi des itinéraires recommandables en Suisse occidentale. 2e éd. revue. 84 x 54: pp. 112: ill. Lausanne, etc., Payot, 1925 Presented by Dr. H. Faes. Farrero, Marius. La Haute-Savoie. Alpinisme tourisme hétellerie. Edité par la Chambre de Commerce d’Annecy. 11 x 9: pp. 196: ill. Annecy, Abry, 1926 Ferrerl, Eugenio. Guida dei Monti d'Italia. Alpi occidentali, vol. 3. Alpi Cozie settentrionali, Pte. 2, Sez. 2. Valle Stretta, Sarrasins-Marches, Fréjus, Pierre Menue-Etiache, Ambin-Vallonetto-Moncenisio. 64 x 4}: pp. vii, 256: ill. Torino, 1927 Fischer, Hans, hsg. von. Dolomiten Worte und Bilder. 9} x 63: pp. 160: 94 plates, 4 col. Miinchen, Rother (1928) Contains :—H. Fischer, Die Warte: A. Stois, Erschiesser: S. Dobiasch, Dolomitentage: H. Stiffer, Siidtirol: H.Czant, Weltkrieg: C. Diener, Geolog. Bau: R&. Bernol, Pflanzenieben: J. Weingartner, Kunst: R. F. Wolff, Sagenkreis. The strongly lined woodcuts go well with the good heavy black type. Fitickiger, Otto. Switzerland from the air with 262 illustrations from the collection of First Flight-Lieutenant Walter Mittelholzer. Translated by A. W. P. Allan. 114 x 9: pp. 32, 176: plates. Erlenbach-Zurich, Rentsch, 1926 This is a translation of Die Schweiz aus der Vogelschau 1924. There are many very fine mountain views and most interesting air views of towns. Fisher, H. A. L. James Bryce. 2 vols. 8} x 5}: pp. xi, 360: vii, 360: plates. London, Macmillan, 1927 Fosea, Francois. H.H.Newton. Illustré de dessins dans le texte et de quarante planches hors texte. 8 x 6: pp. 19: 41 plates. Paris, Fleury, 1928

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442 The Alpine Club Inbrary. Among the plates from pictures are various mountain scenes—Majorca, Wengen, Dolomites, Mt. Blanc, Tyrol. France. Ministére de ]’Agriculture. Direction générale d. eaux et foréta. Etudes glaciologiques. Tome VI. 11 x 74: pp. 166: plates. Paris, Imprim. nat., 1927 Observations jusqu’en 1921 pour les glaciers, Noir, Blanc, de la Pilatte, et du Chardon: jusqu’en 1924 pour les autres glaciers. Also various reports on different glaciers from 1913 onwards. Freshfield, D. W. Division of the alpsinto regions. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 71,no.1. 94 x 6: pp. 37-42. Jan. 1925 —— Quips for cranks and other trifles. 6} x 4: pp. x, 112. p.p. (Clowes, London), 1923 Presented by the author. Mountain Clubs for the Himalaya. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 71, no. 5. 92 x 6}: pp. 471-3. May 1928 Fritsch & Co., Sporthaus. Jubilaumsschrift. 9} x 7}: pp. 68: plates. Zurich, 1928 Interesting for the plates, which include good portraits of A. Heim, C. Schréter, J. Coaz, X. Imfeld, G. Studer, J. J. Weilenmann, W. A. B. Coolidge, E. Whymper, A. Burgener, M. Anderegg, A. Miller, C. Almer, M. Schocher, C. Klucker, A. Supersaxo, C. Grass. There are articles; C. Tduber, Pioniere: E. Kern, Klettern im Fels: H. Eschmann, Ausriis- tung: H. Leutert, Skisport. —— Winter-Preisliste, 48. 1927 Fyfe, C. W. Domville. Things seen in Switzerland in winter. A description of many of the winter sport centres of the high alps. 6} x 4: pp. 157: plates. London, Seeley Service, 1926. 3s. 6d. Gaillard, E. Les Dents d’Ambin. 9} x 6}: pp. 40: ill. Chambéry, Dardel, 1927 Gallet, Julien. Derniers souvenirs de ]’alpe. 9 x 6: pp. 207. Lausanne, eto., Payot, 1927 Taschhorn: Viso: Wildhorn: Varneralp: Combe d’Arbaz: etc. Mostly reprints from publications of Alpine Clubs. Geographical Journal. Vols. 69, 70. 94 x 6. 1927 Jan., E. W. Nesham, Alaska Boundary: March, J. W. Gregory, Fiords of Hebrides: Apr., K. Mason, Shaksgam Valley: May, W. E. D. Allen, Boundaries in Caucasus: June, G. N. Humphreys, New Routes. Ruwenzori : July, J. H. Reynolds, Iceland in 1872 and 1926: Aug., R. Meinertzhagen, Ladakh: Oct., K. Mason. Survey of Shaksgam: Nov., A. Stein, Alexander’s Campaign on Indian N.W. Frontier; S. Obouchev, Discovery Range N.E. Siberia : Dec., W. D. V. O. King, Uspullata Range; A.J. Ostheimer, Canadian Rockies, 1926. Gortani, Michele. Le pietre oscillanti. In L’Universo, Firenze, anno 8, num. 11]. 94 x 6}: pp. 1133-76: ill. Gos, Francois. Rambles in high Savoy. 9} x 64: pp. 169: map, pls. London, Longmans, 1927. 21s. A finely illustrated work, many views of parts of the Mont Blanc range, as well as of other places. Also a very interesting, readable text. Gregson, Margaret. Note on the headquarters of the Yarkand River. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 72, no. 4. 93 x 6: pp. 345-7: ill. October 1928 Le Grotte d’Italia. Rivista di speleologia: organo ufficiale dell’ Azienda autonoma di Stato delle R.R. grotte demaniali di postumia. 9} x 6}: ill. Milano, 1927 Gugliermina, G. F.eG.B.; Giuseppe Lampugnani. Vette. Recordi di esplora- zionie nuove ascensioni sulle Alpi, nei gruppi del Monte Rosa, de Cervino e del Monte Branco dal 1896 al 1921. Opera illustrata da cinquantotto Fotoinci- sioni calcografiche originali stampate su Tavole fuori testo. 113 x 9: pp. 361: plates.

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The Alpine Club Library. 448 Auspice la Sezione di Varallo del Club alpino italiano, 1927. 1.120 Presented by the authors: ‘ All’ Alpine Club, al sodalizio degli Eroi, da Whymper a Mallory e Irvine—con grande reverenza.’ Hayden, Henry, and César Cosson. Sport and travel in the highlands of Tibet. 8} x 64: pp. xvi, 262: map, plates. London, Cobden-Sanderson (1927). 21s. Hoek, Henry. The best ski-tours of Davos. Being an adaptation of Hermann Frei’s‘ Davoser Skitouren.” 6} x 4: pp. viii,96. | Hamburg, Enoch, 1927 Huber, Sepp. Fiihrer durch die Tote Gebirge einschliesslich Warscheneck, HGllengebirge und Sengsengebirge. 64 x 4}: pp. 156: pls. Wien, Artaria, 1927 Huc,R.P. Dansla Tartarie. Nouvelle édition. 73 x 5: pp. 301: portrait. Paris, Plon, 1926 Hut, Inauguration de la cabane Dr. Constantin P. Topali sur l’aréte du Distel- grat le 12 septembre 1926. 84 x 54: pp. 20: plate. Lausanne, Payot, 1928 Inglis, Charles Simpson. Ascent of Sgurr nan Gillean, 1856. Printed in Scot. Mng. Journ., vol. 18, no. 104. pp. 62-70. 1927 Jasienski, Stefan. Bildhafte Alpine Photographie. Photofreund Biicherei, Bd. 12. 6} x 4}: pp. 67: pls. Berlin, Hackebeil, 1928. 4.50 R.M. Kain, Konrad. The eastern valleys of the Purcell] Range. In Bull. Geogr. Soc. Phil., vol.26,no.2. 10 x 63: pp. 69-78: pls. April 1928 Kober, L. Das Werden der Alpen. Eine erdgeschichtliche Einfiihrung. 84 x 54: pp. (iv), 86: ill. Karlsruhe, Braun, 1927 A short, clear work on the latest theories of the formation of the alps. Krebs, Norbert. Die Ostalpen und der heutige Osterreich. Eine Landerkunde. 2. Aufl. Bibliothek Landerkundlichen Handbiicher hsg. v. Albrecht Penck. 2 vols. 9} x 6}: pp. xiii, 330: x, 496: maps, ill. Stuttgart, Engelhorn, 1928. 45 R.M. Grenzen : Bau d. Alpen: Einfluss d. geolog. Bauer auf d. Formen d. Alpen : Eiszeit: Morphol. Erscheinungen d. Gegenwart: Klima: Vegetation: Bevélkerung: Allgiu; rhatisches Hochland: Herz Tirols: Tauernbogen : Inneroésterreich: Siidalpen: Nordalpen: Literaturnachweis: u.s.w. Kurz, Louls. Guide de la chaine du Mont Blanc & l’usage des ascensionistes. 3me édition revue et mise & jour par Marcel Kurz. 64 x 4}: pp. 408: ill. Lausanne, Payot, 1927. Fr. 12 Kurz, Marcel. Alpinismo ivernale. 8 x 5: pp. 499: plates. Pinerolo, Casa Soc. edit.. 1928. L.24 This is a translation of ‘ L’alpinisme hivernal,’ and forms vol. ! of * I classici della montagna.’ Lechner, Sigmund und Karl Kuntseher. Skifiihrer durch die Otztaler Alpen. 64 x 4: pp. viii, 89: map, ill. Wien, Artaria, 1925 Lee, F. H., Selected by. The lure of the hills. 7 x 43: pp. 223: frontis- piece, London, Harrap, 1928 A good collection of extracts. Leitmeier, Hans. Die dsterreichischen Alpen. Eine zusammenfassende Darstellung. 9} x 64: pp. (vii), 414: plates. Leipzig u. Wien, Deuticke, 1928 This contains articles by various writers :— N. Lichtenecker, Gliederung d. Alpen: H. Lettmeter, Mineralvorkommen : A. Kohler, Gesteine: F. H. Suess, Geologische Bau: 7’. Pintner, Tierwelt : R. Wettstein, Pflanzenwelt: EH. Briickner, Eiszeit: F. M. Exner, Klima: H. Voltelint, Im Mittelalter: O. Lehmann, Verkehrsstrassen: u.s.w. Longchamp, F.C. J. L. Eberli: son temps, sa vie et son ceuvre .. . avec un catalogue complet... . 94 x 6}: pp. 108, xcii, xxiv: num. plates. Paris et Lausanne, Libr. d. Bibliophiles, 1927 Longstaff, T. G. The Nanda Devi group and the sources of the Nandakgini. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 71, no. 5. 93 x 6}: pp. 417-30: plates. May 1928

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444 The Alpine Club Inbrary. Lunn, Arnold. A history of ski-ing. 8} x 53: pp. xv, 492: plates. Oxford University Press, 1927. 16s. —— Switzerland, her topographical, historical and literary landmarks. Kitbag travel books. 64 x 44: pp. 320: map, ill. London, etc., Harrap (1928). 7s. 6d. A pleasant, readable, light work on Switzerland—iiterary, historic, artistic, scenic and general. Itis written chiefly with the intention of inducing readers to become acquainted with the subalpine beauties of the country. Those parts are rarely visited by the English, though well known to the holiday- makers of Switzerland itself. McDowall, Arthur. Peaks and frescoes. A study of the Dolomites. Tlus- trations from lino-cuts by Mary McDowall. 10 x 74: pp. (vi), 123: col. pls. London, Oxford University Press, 1928. 15s. Martel, E.A. L’Aven Armand, Lozére. 8} x 5}: pp. 48: ill. Millau, Artiéres, 1827 Mason, Kenneth. Note on Sir Francis Younghusband’s Urdok Glacier. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 71, no. 3. 9% x 6: pp. 275-8. March 1928 Massam,J.A. The cliff dwellers of Kenya. An account of a people driven to take refuge on the inaccessible ledges of precipitous mountains. 8% x 5}: pp. (vii), 268: map, plates. London, Seeley Service, 1927 tarwissenschaftliche und technische Mitteflungen hsg. v. Oesterr. Bundes- minist. f. Heerwesen. 58. Jahrg. Gebirgskrieg. 9 x 6: pp. 497-667: ill. Wien, Sept.-Okt. 1927. M.3 Minelle, Pierre. Le climat de montagne et l’ensoleillement, le ski de compéti- tion: leurs effets physiologiques. Cours sup. d’éduc. phys. Université de Paris. 7} x 53: pp. 106: plate. Paris, Legrand, 1927 Minney, R. J. Midst Himalayan mists. 8} x 5}: pp. 80: plates. Calcutta, Butterworth, 1920 Mongiond, André. Voyage dans les Pyrénées par Ramond précédé de La jeunesse de Ramond. 8 x 5}: pp. cxlii, 209: plates. Lyon, Lardanchet, 1927 This work has not hitherto been reprinted, though when first issued it was translated into English and into German as mentioned on p. 208 of this reprint. The title of the German version, not given since M. Monglond was unable to find a copy, is Reise nach den héchsten franzdsischen und spanischen Pyreneen. Strasburg, Akad. Buchhandlung 1789, in 2 volumes. It is well that this work has been reprinted. It is still worth reading for its freshness. There is an interesting introductory part on Ramond in this edition, with reproductions of three portraits at different ages. Montanari, Tommaso. Précis de l’itinéraire d’Hannibal du Rhone & la plaine du P6. 10 x 6f: pp. 14: map. Gap, Jean & Peyrot, 1924 —— Miragzio e realtaé sulla via d’Annibale per le alpi. Ex Rass. d. Esercito Ital. 10} x 7: pp. 24. Roma, 1925 Morden, William J. Across Asia’s snows and deserts. 9 x 6}: pp. xiv, 415: map, plates. New York, London, Putnam, 1927 Morris, C.J. Some valleys and glaciers in Hunza. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 71,no.6. 9} x 6: pp. 513-37: ill., map. June 1928 Mountain essays by famous climbers. Edited by E. F. Bozman. 6 x 4}: pp. 256: ill. London, Dent, 1928 Contains :—G. W. Young, Hills and a boy: A. Wills, Wetterhorn : L. Stephen, Bietschhorn : J. Tyndall, Weisshorn: HE. Whymper, Matterhorn : "7W. M. Conway, Mte. Rosa: A. F. Mummery, Ghosts on the Matterhorn : G. W. Young, Great side of the Grépon: G. L. Leigh Mallory, Mt. Evereat : N. E. Odell, The last climb. Mumm, A.L. The Alpine Club Register, 1877-1890. 8} x 5}: pp. vii, 349. London, Arnold, 1928. 21s. Munday, W. A. Don. Explorations in the Coast Range of British Columbia. In Geogr. Rev., New York, vol. 18, no.2. 10 x 64: pp. 196-214: plates. April 1928

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The Alpine Club Library. 445 Nangeroni,G.L. Osservazioni preliminari sal glacialismo attuale in Val Masino. In Atti Soc. ital sc. nat. in Milano, vol. 66. 94 x 63: pp. 75-88: map. Giugno, 1927 New Zealand. Department of tourist and health resorts. Annual Repurte. 13 x 8h: pp. LI. 1927, 1928 Lists of alpine ascents, including Seceind ascent of Mt. Haidinger and first traverse of Mt. Tasman. Nielsen, Niels. L’exploration de |’Islande centrale en 1927. In La Géogr., Paris, t. 49, no.4-8. 10 x 6}: pp. 408-22. Mai-juin 1928 Noel, J.B. L. Through Tibet to Everest. 8} x 54: pp. 302: plates. London, Arnold, 1927. 10s. 6d. Northey, W. Brook, and Morris,C. J. The Gurkhas, their manners, customs, and country. Witha foreword by C.G. Bruce. 8} xX 5}: pp. xxxi, 282 : plates, London, Lane, 1928 Obruchev, Sergei. Discovery of a great range in N.E. Siberia. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 70, no. 5. 94 x 6: pp. 464-9: ill. Nov. 1927 Odell, N.E. The geology of the eastern parte of central Spitsbergen. Reprinted from Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc., vol. 83, pt. 1. 9 x 54: pp. 147-62: plates. London, April 1927 v. Ompteda, Georg. Der jungfrauliche Gipfel. Roman. 74 x 4}: pp. 308. Stuttgart, etc., Deutech. Verlags-Anst. (1927) Orlowicz, Mieczyslaw. Guide illustré de la Pologne. 63 x 44: pp. viii, 2°6: maps, plates. Varsovie, Travaux publics, 1927 Ostheimer, Alfred J. Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, 1926. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 70, no. 6. 92 x 64: pp. 558-64: ill. Dec. 1927 —— (III), Dais Mountain. In Bull. Geogr. Soc. Phil., vol. 26, no. 3. 9} X 62: pp. 200-7: map, ill. | July 1928 Pailion, Mary. En Souvenir de Miss Katharine Richardson, 1854—1927. 84 x 5}: pp. 12: portraits: reprint from La Montagne. Etampes, Imprim. La Semeuse, 1927 Pallin, H.N. Kebnekaise farder och aventyr i Lappland. 94 x 64: pp. 251: ill. Stockholm, Bonnier, 1927 First winter ascents of Kebnekaise, Sarektj4kko and Kaskasatjakko : first ascents of Gareks south summit and of ‘ Sverges sista stortopp.’ Patron, Luis Riso. The altitude of Aconcagua. In Geogr. Rev., New York, vol. 18, no. 3. 10 x 64: pp. 485-8: map. July 1928 Pichl, Eduard. Wiens Bergsteigertum. 94 x 6: pp. vii, 192: plates. Wien, Oest. Staatsdruckerei, 1927 A history of mountaineering by the Viennese, beginning with the Erzherzog Johann. Chapters on guideless climbing, on the many climbing clube of Vienna, on women climbers, ski-ing, art, first ascents of Rax routes, etc. Poitschek, Gottfried Julius. Feuerjoch! Ein Alpenroman. 7} x 5: pp. 139 Wien, Reichensten- Verlag, {1928} Puiseux, Pierre. Ou le pére a passé... . Au berceau de l’alpinisme sans guide. 93 x 74: pp. 319: pls. Paris, Editions Argo, 1928 Mostly reprinted with corrections for periodicals. Mt. Perdu: Mt. Vélan: Dent du Midi: Wetterhorn, 1879: Mt. Blanc, ie Aletschhorn, 1881: Pic du Tacul, 1882: Eiger, 1883: Pte. del’ Echelle, , 1884: Dent Parrachée, etc., 1886: Gde. Casse, etc., 1887: Mt. Tondu, 1889 : Autour de Zinal, 1893 : Rimpfischhorn, 1895. Putnam, George Palmer. The Putnam Baffin Island expedition. In Geogr. Rev., New York., vol. 18, no. 1. 10 x 64: pp. 1-40: map,ill. Jan. 1928 Le Queux, William. Engelberg. 7} x 5: pp. 24: ill. London, Swiss Observer (1927) —— Interlaken. the Alpine Wonderland. 7} x 44: pp. 24: ill. 1928 Roberts, Morley. On the old trail. Through British Columbia after forty years. 8} x 5}: pp. xiv, 242: pls. London, Nash, 1927 Pleasantly written and well and copiously illustrated. Ruttledge, Hugh. Notes on a visit to western Tibet in 1926. In Geogr. Journ. London, vol.71, no. 5. 9} x 64: pp. 431-8: ill. May 1892 VOL, XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 2Q

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446 The Alpine Club Library. Saussure, H.-B. de. Le Mont-Blanc et le Col du Géant. ae Pe Gaillard et Henry F. Montagnier. 11} x 9: Pp. iii, 94: double.set of plates in numbered copy. 2 copies: one no. 10 of 50 © sur vélin.’ Lyon, Audin, 1927 Scherzer, H. Geologisch-botanische Wanderungen durch die Alpen. Bd. 1, Das Berchteagadener Land. 7} x 4}: pp. 218: plates. Miinchen, Kéeol, 1927. M.4.40 Schlink, Herbert H. A Day’s Ski-ing on the Muniong Ranges. Ski Club of Australia. 9} < 64: pp.8: ill. Sydney, 1928 —- oh -ing from Kiandra to Kosciusko. Ski Club of Australia. &4 x 6: PP. Sydney, 1927 ehectee, Claud. Joys of mountaineering. In Pall Mall Mag., London. 12 x 8} : pp. 24-7: ill. 1928 Sehuster, Oskar. Oskar Schuster und sein Geist. Ein Strauss: ih eh wchen Erlebens. Mit Originalberichten der Erstbesteigungen. trage d. Akad. Sektion Dresden hag. v. Walther Fischer. 10 «x 7 portrait and ill. Dresden, Akad. 3a 1926 This contains -—O. Schuster, Falkenstem: Hermann Sattler, Kreuzturm Walter Spielhagen, Hoher Torstein, 1922: Oto Israel, Tibet: Friedich Lamprecht, Bau d. Alpen. Ski. Klepperskier direkt aus den Alpen. 9 x 6}: 14: ill. Rosenheim, Klepper (1927) Smythe, F.8. A bivouac on the Aiguille du Plan. In Cornhill Mag. n.s. 386. 9 x 54: pp. 229-39. August 1928 —— The peak of terror. In Blackwood’s Mag., London, no. 851. 932 x 6: . 596-602. May 1928 An ascent of the Schrec‘chorn in 1925 in a thunderstorm after a green-ray sunrise. Sptro, Louis. Guides de Montagnes. Préface de M. Julien Gallet. 8} x 5}: pp. 192: portraits. Lausanne, Editions La Concorde, 1928 Stein, Aurel. Alexander’s campaigns on the Indian N.W. Frontier. In Geogr. Journ., vol. 70, no. 5-6. 64 x 6: pp. 417-49, 515-54. Nov.—Dec. 1927 Switzerland. Die Schweiz. Illustriertes Reisehandbuch. 7. Aufl. v. Sommer in d. Schweiz. Hsg. d. Schweiz. Verkehrazentrale. 7 x 44: pp. xxvii, 383 : maps, pls. Zurich, Wagner, 1927. 10 fr. —— Qn the Swiss Alpine Road. Sur les Routes Alpestres Suisses. 10} x 7}: pp. 52: pla., 8col. Goldswil, Gurtner (1928) —— Travelling in Switzerland. 8} x 54: pp. 41. Union Bank (Zurich, Orell Fiissli, 1927) —— Schweiz. Kalender fiir Bergsteiger und Skifahrer. 2. Jahrg. Schrift- leitung: Dr. ErnstJenny. 6} x 4: pp. 224. Bern, Stampfli, 1928 Hiitten: Wetterdienst: Orientierung: Klettern im Fels: Gehen auf Gletachern: Biwakiere : Ski: Notsignale: Erste Hilfe : Rettungsstationen: Photographie: Ausriistung. Tarca, Spartaco. La guerra di montagna c la difesa delle Alpi. 63 x 4}: pp. 176. Torino, Schioppo, 1926. L.9 Criticism of the literature on the subject: also chapters on mountain fortifications, artillery and general frontier defence. Tirol. Natur Kunst Volk Leben. 12 x 9: pp. 404: 106 plates. Innsbruck, Tir. Landesverkersamt, 1927 A finely illustrated work, on hunting and other sports, mountaineering, art, architecture, inns, ironwork, etc., by various well-known authors. Tursky, Franz. Skifiihrer durch die Kitzbiiheler Alpen. 6} x 4}: pp. xii, 242: plates. Wien, Artaria, 1926 —— Fiihrer durch die Venedigergruppe. 6 x 4}: pp. 295: plates. Miinchen, Hochalpen. Verlag (1924) Fibrer durch die Goldberggruppe (Sonnblickgruppe). ae x 4: pp. 180: plates. Wien, Artaria, 1927

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The Alpine Club Library. 447 Vermorel, Lucien. Inauguration du sentier et de la plaque Lucien Vermorel face nord de la Pinéa le 13 mai 1926. 8 x 5: pp. 40: plates. Macon, Protat, 1926 This contains an account of the ascent of La Pinéa by his companion M. Maurice Dony. —— <traverslesalpes. Premiers essais, Notes d’ascensions ct Correspondances. 8 x 5}: pp. 70: portr., plates. Villefranche-en- Beaujolais, Lamarsalle, 1927 ~--— Discours prononcés aux funerailles, le 6 octobre 1921. 9 x 5: pp. 26. (Macon, Protat, ? 1926) Containslist of principal ascents. M. Vermorel was a member of the Groupe de Haute-Montagne and was killed on La Pinéa, 2 octobre 1921. Ver. z. Schutze d. Alpenpflanzen, Bamberg. 18. Bericht. 9 x 5}: pp. 106: plates. 1928 La Vie Alpine. An.1. 10} x 8}: ill. Grenoble, 1927-8 A new paper dealing with the French Alps, mountaineering, sports, touring, etc. la. 27 Obiou N. face. Washburn, Bradford. Among the alps with Bradford. 7} x 5}: pp. xiv, 160: plates. New York, London, Putnam, 1927 This is by a member of the Groupe de Haute Montagne. Climbs on the Mt. Blanc group and on the Matterhorn. Excellent photographs of climbing positions. The book is written for boys and is by a youth of 17. Wilson, R. C. Note on the channel connecting the Lakes Manasarowar and Rakas. In Geogr. Journ., London, vol. 71, no. 5. 9} x 6}: pp. 439-40. M y 1928 Woodworth, Robert H. Notes on the Torngat region of Northern Labrador. In Geogr. Rev., New York, vol. 717, no. 4. 10 x 64: pp. 632-42: ill. Oct. 1927 Woollacott, Arthur P. Mackenzie and his voyageurs by canoe to the Arctic and the Pacific, 1789-93. 73 x 5}: pp. x, 237: map, pls. London and Toronto, Dent, 1927 Zsigmondy, Emil u. Wilhelm Paulcke. Die Gefahren der Alpen. 8. Aufl. 8 x 5: pp. 361: plates. Miinchen, Rother, 1927 Older Works. Alpstein. 25 Ansichten aus dem Alpstein. 4} x 6}: col. pls. Herisau, Marty, ¢. 1870 (7?) Beyrer, M. Barth. Guide des Voyageurs dans la ville d'Innsbruck et ses environs. 5 x 44: pp. xii, 235: ill. Innsbruck, Mahl-Schedl, c. 1830 Blanchard, Raoul. La Corse. Ouvrage orné de 189 héliogravures. 8} x 6}: pp. 149: ill. Grenoble, Rey (1897) A beautifully illustrated work on this ‘ mountain in the sea,’ where moun- tains may well compare with the Alps themselves.’ Bourrit, M.T. Lettre de M. Bourrit sur le premier voyage fait au sommet du Mont-Blanc, le 8 Aout dernier. 7} x 4}: pp. 9. Genéve, ce 20 Septembre 1786 This copy of an exceedingly rare pamphlet (two others known) was found added in at the beginning of a copy of Bourrit’s Nouvelle Description 1785. Presented by Sir George Morse. Buch, L. v. Bemerkungen iiber das Berninagebirg in Graubiinden. 10} x 8}: pp. 105-122. 1814 Cattani, C. Das Alpenthal Engelberg und seine Berg-, Wasser-, Milch- und Molkenturen. 8} x 5: pp. 29: lithographs. n.d. Chamonix. Taschenbuch fiir Reisende nach Chamouny, um den Mont- Blanc, ... 5} x 3$: pp. 190: plans. Aarau, Sauerlander (1830) Cornaz-Vulliet, C. En pays fribourgeois. Manuel du voyageur. 7} x 5: pp. 252: ill. Fribourg, Libr. de I’ Université, c. 1900 Forbes, James D. [Illustrations of the viscous theory of glacier motion. In Phil. Trans. London, pt. 2. 104 x 8}: pp. 143-210: lithographs. 1846

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448 The Alpine Club Library. Forsyth, T. D. Ost-Turkestan und das Pamir-Plateau 1873-4. Report of mission to Yarkundin 1873. Erganz. 52 Petermanns Geogr. Mitt. 11 x 9: p. 76: map. Gotha, Perthes, 1877 rton, Lt.-Col. Views in the Himalaya and Neilgherry Hills, from drawings taken during the years 1845-46-47. 7 x 10}: 24 lithogrs. with descriptions. London, Dickinson, [? 1848] Presented by Gilbert Thomson, Esq. Gothard, Saint. Extrait d’une lettre d’un Gentilhomme Anglois qui avoit passé le S. Gothard le 11. de Juillet 1793. Bound in at end of M. Bourrit’s Nouvelle Description 1785. 9 x 7}. Hall, William Edward. A volume of sketches by. Alpineand others. 6} x 5. 1863-4 Journal de Lausanne, Numero 1-7. 2 Déc. 1786-29 Déc. 1787. 93 x 7}: pp. 252. Kollbach, Karl. Wanderungen durch die deutschen Gebirge. 2. Bd. Von der Tatra bis zur Sachsischen Schweiz. 9 x 6}: pp. xi, 304: pls. K6ln, Neubner, 1897 Kurz, Fritz. Bergklinge. Gedichte. 6} x 4}: pp. 76. Wien, Oester. A.C., 1922 Nos, Heinrich. Bergfahrten und Raststaétten. 7} x 5: pp. 389. Miinchen, Lindauer, 1892 Shaler, N. 8., and W. N. Davis. Illustrations of the earth’s surface. Glaciers. 134 x 104: pp. vi, 196: 25 pls. with text. Boston, Osgood, 1881 Switzerland. Vues de la Suisse. 30lithographs. 10 x 12}. Paris, Wild (c. 1860). Chiefly views of Mont Blanc. Trevor-Battye, Aubyn. CampinginCrete. 8} x 54: pp. xxi, 308: map, pls. London, Wetherby, 1913 Wodl, Hans. Siihrer durch die Schladminger Tauern. 6} x 4: pp. iv, 196: maps, pls. Wien, Artaria, 1924 Items. Everest. A series of 20 small photographs issued with Player’s Navy Cut cigarettes. 1925 Maps. Freytag and Berndt, Wien. Bayrischer u. BOhmerwald. 1927 Music. The Alpine Climbers. A Descriptive Piece by Archibald Joyce. 12 x 9}: pp. 15. London, Ascherberg, 1927. 22. 6d. MS. Letters, 1780, by Thomas Brand, on a journey in Switzerland. Subjects. (Figures in brackets refer to Library Additions : other figures are dates.) Ancohuma (14c); Aermigh, E. Grat (24); Der Akademikerpickel (29); Pta. d’Allochet (14c); L’alpinisme sans guide (2); Nomenclatura del sistema alpino (9); Alpenfahrtenim Freiballon (14c); Alpenflige (32); Ammer. gauer Berge (27); Unbekannte Berge in Zentralasien (14c); Mts. Aspiring and Malte Brun (18b); Assicurazione dei soci (10); Sahara-Atlas (24). Les Bans en hiver (7); Bareck N.W. face (19); Aus den Werken H. v. Barths (27); Piz Bernina (27); Bietschh. arite E. (24); D. Blanche (14c) ; Bergfahrten in Bolivien (14c); Brenva Gl. 1924-7 (9); Buchaille Etive (25); Gr. u. Kl. Buchstein aus d. Hinterwinkel (28); Rock climbing in Butter- mere (17). Caca Aga (14c), (29); Cima di Campagnacia (14c); Cariboo Mns (31); a. 27 Cima Castello (16); Aig. de Chambeyron versant N. 25 (6); Charmos- Grépon (33); Civetta N. Wand (l14c); Mt. Clearwater (17b); Climbing mechanics (21); Columbia icefield 24 (4); a. 24 Cook (18b); a. 9 févr.- 27 Pic Coolidge (2); Corsica (5b); Neutouren Korsika (29); tr. 26 Les Courtes .24); Crampons (2). Daint de Mesdi (30); Djurdjurakette (28); Daniel Dollfus-Ausset with portrs. (24); Dolomites (17b); C. E. Douglas in mem. (18b); Pico de Dra (20); Drei Kénige im Floitenkamm (28).

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The Alpine Club Lnbrary. 449 ‘Flambeau d’Ecrins (6); Picos de Europa (34); Mt. Everest 24 (4). Att. 26 Mt. Fairweather (4); Fassaner Berge (l4c); a. 25 winter Finster- aarh. (33); Fletechh. guideless (27) ; Ueberschreitung d. Fluchth. (14b); Mt. Forbes (17b); Freyat S.E. face (19); Barriers of Mt. Fryatt (4); Furchetta N. Wand (14c). Massif du Gabixio (150); Gassisp. N. aréte (24); Gesiuse (29); Variasioni d. Ghiacciai d. Canin (23); Variations d. glaciers 1926, 47e rapport (24); Glaciers Mont Blanc, Dauphiné (6b); Gr. Glockner (33); Gr. fockses N. Wand (19), (27); Godley Pks. (18b); Gran Sasso d’Italia (24); Grand Teton (26); Grépon, Apr. 27 (2), (24); Grimmingstock (29); Grinstein N. Kante (27). Hiuslhorn (28); D. d’Hérens N.W. aréte (24); Hochgimpelsp. N. face (33) ; Hochkalter (27); Kletterfahrten in d. Hochschwa ppe (32); a. 74 Hochwanner N. Wand (28); Bergwell um den Hochweiastein (14c); Ho6fats (27); Hihnerstécke (24). Iflimani (140) ; Picos di Infierno (20). Altes und Neues von d. Jungfrau (24); Jungfrau fr. N. (4). Alter Kaiser, neue Fahrten (27); Kalkkégel (29); Kalkkégelfahrt, Riepen- wand N.W. face (33); Kaltwasserkarspitze (27); Kamelkogel (33) ; Kamol-Kamm (27); Karntner Nocken (14c); Kaunergrat, Erschliessungs- geschichte (14c) ; Kaunergrat (27), (32); Kilimanjaro 26 (16). Laasersp. (24); Hochgebirgsaseen d. Ostalpen (14c); Laliderer N.W. face (27) ; crags round Gt. Langdale (17); Lasdrling (28) ; Col Laz (14c); Im hintersten Lech (14c) ; Cima d. Lobbie (9) ; Lyell Pks. (17b). Cima d. Madonna (15b); Maladetta (20); Sudwiande d. Marmolata (14b); Matterhorn (2); Plastici del Cervino e del D. del Gigante (9); variation 25 - ital. face Matterh. (9); Mathaisenkar (27); Maurerkeesképfe (27); Rund ums Medriol (l4c); Bsteig d. Meije (29); Mesolcina (24); Alpinisme au Méxique (24); Monch (24); a. 26 Mt. Blanc by Brouillard (9); Brenva- Flanke d. Mt. Blanc (la); Mt. Blanc from Mer de Glace (24); Mt. Blanco a. d. Aig. Bl. de Pétéret (24); Clocher du Mt. Blanc du Tacul (6); Gressoney and Mte. Rosa, portr. J. N. Vincent (24); Bibliography del Monte Rosa (A. Durio) (9); Monzoniberga (14c); Moérchnerschneide (2b); Mt. Morgan, | Granite Pk. (17b), (26); History of Moss Ghyll Groves (21); Mururata (27), Neuseeland (27); Tr. de la Nonne par le bréche de l’Evéque (2). Winter in d. Oetztaler Alpen, Querkogelj, Karlessp., Similaun, etc. (14b); Pta. dell’ Ort (14c); a. Ortler, Coston di Dentra (12); Ortlergruppe (28). Montajia de Palencia (20); Geschichte d. Pallavicini-Rinne (27), (30); Patern- kogel Ostgrat (28); Jean Payot mémoires (6) ; Pénemédaa (2); Aig. Blanche de Pétéret (29); 3rd a. 26 Pierra Menta (6); Notes on Pillar history (17); Pillar Rock centenary (17); Planspitze N. face (30); Passé du Pyréné- isme (16c). Quirles (6). Mt. Rainier (18); Aigs. de la Ratére (2); Riffelh. itinéraires (24); Mt. Robson (18): Aig. de Rochefort (15); New scrambles on the Roches and Hen Cloud (21); a. Mt. Rolleston (18b) ; use of rope (18). Aigs. de Sabouredo (2); Sac de l’Alpiniste (2); Salbitechyn (24); Sass Aut (14c); Sass Bijie(15b); Sass Maor Ostwand (14c); Sauh, N. Grat (19) ; Pics du Says (2); Scerscen-Bernina (16); Schiefersp. N.W. Grat (14c); Schonpleiskopfe (14c); Scotland, Tour in highlands, 1856 (25); Seefelder Gruppe (27); Q. Sella in mem. (9); Pta. Selle (14c); Ridge walking in Skye (17); Piz Sol (19); Spitzmauer E. face (29) ; Steigkogel S. aréte (19). Sierra Tejeda (14c); Tetons (17b); Th. Thomas en souvenir (6); Montagne ticinesi (24); Tirol, Hochgebirge vor dem Erwachen d. Alpinismus (14c) ; Cima Tosa (27); Totengebirge (28); Winter im Totengebirge (14c); a. 07 Totenkirchl (19), W. face (14c); Gr. Traunstein N. face (19): Pizzo Tresero (19); Trettach W. face (33); Triglav N. face (29); Trugberge Ueberschreitung (33); Tuxer Hauptmann (28). Untersberg (28).

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450 The Alpine Club Inbrary. Pta. Vallaccia (14c); Die Hohe Veitech. (14c); a. Aig. Verte par Aig. du Jardin (5a); Autour du Vignemale (15c); Campanile Visdende (9). Watzmann Ostwand (14b) ; Weisskeigel N.E. face (29) ; Weissmiess u. Portien- grat (27); a. Wilde Kaiser Dilferwande (28). Yellowstone Park: animals, flowers (26). Zabringt. S.-N. (19); Zetterkaiser Sadwand (27); Zillertal (33). First Ascents. 73 Admonter Reichenstein (28); 27 Pic d. Aiguillons 3rd face (2); 28 Pic d. Aiguillons E. face (6); 27 Campanile alto W. aréte (lc); 26 Aréte d. Améthystes (6); winter 90 Ankogel (33); 1926 Aig. d’Argentiére N. face (6) ; 25 Aig. d’Argentiére §.S.W. couloir (8); 26 Aig. d’Argentiére versant Améthystes (6); 1 winter as. 22-27 (2); 1 d. 26 Mte. Aviolo S. face (8) ; 26 Roccia Azzurra N. face (9). 26 Gran Bagna N. face (9); 26 Roccia Baitone N. face (8); 25 Pta. Barettila aréte du Brouillard (7); 27 Monte la Banca W. face (lc); 26 Pta. Bara- tono (9); 26 Aig. de Bionnassay N. face direct (9); a. 6 Mt. Blackhorn (Ib) ; 1 tr. Col. de Blaitiére N. face (2); 27 Borsdagh (la); 26 Pic Bourcet W. aréte (6); Pic Bourcet 27 sommet N. (2); 26 Gr. Bratechenkopf S. face and S.W. face (la); 27 Bratechenkopf W. face (19); 26 Breith. W. face (24) ; 26 fr. Bocca di Brenta, Brenta Alta (9); 26 Brenta Bassa 8.W. face (9) ; winter 27 Col d. Brouillards (2). 26 Cima di Campo Centrale S. face (9); 14 Ago Canali (9); 27 Cardinal (2) ; 26 S.E. Tower Castle Mt. (1d); 26 Bec Coreaif (9); Cerro Blanco S. pk. (3); 27 Aig. du Chardonnet S. face fr. Moraine du Chardonnet (2) ; 27 Cima Chiesa fr. S. (19); 26 Gde. Uja di Ciardoney E. face (9); 23 Mte. Cimone N. face (22); 24 Civetta N.W. face (9); 13 Civetta N. aréte (9) ; 27 crack above fallen block Clogwyn-y-Ddisgl. (5b); 27 East buttress Clogwyn du’r-Arddu (5b); 25 Cerro Colorado S. Grat (3); winter 27 Pic Coolidge (2); a. 27 Corsica (1c); 27 Cima Crassi (23); 27 Pic d. Cristayeta N.N.E. aréte (2); 27 Créton di Culzei S. face (23). 26 Nied. Dachstein W. face (la); 27 Bréche S. d. Dames Anglaises fr. W. (1c) ; 27 Demirkasyk (la); 26 Pta. Mediana, Aigs. du Diable (9); 13 Torre d. Diavolo direct (9); winter 27 Pics de Dormilouse (2). 26 Barre d. Ecrins direct fr. Gl. Noir (6), (7); 13 Guglia Edmondo de Amicis direct (9); 13 Elferkhopf (9); 27 Pte. d’Entre-les-Cols (2); winter 27 Col d’Entréves (2); 26 winter Aig. de l’Epaisseur (2), (6). 26 Fechtebenkogel S. aréte (19); 26 Felber Mittelkamm (19); 27 P. del Ferro (16); Fiescherwand (24); 26 Torrione Fionelli N.W. face (16) ; 26 Flammes de Picrre du Dru (6); 1 a. 1925 Fleischbank S.E. face (19) ; 27 Forchetta N. face (19); 26 Mte. Forchin, Pte. W. and Centrale (9) ; 27 Oestl. Pta. di Formenton S. aréte (lc) ; 23 Foronon N. face (22); 27 Aig. du Fou Chamonix face (2). 27 Gamsalmkopf 8.W. face (19) ; 1895 Pic Gaspard W. face (6) ; 26 Pic Gaspard W. aréte (7); 27 4th pinnacle Sgurr nan Gillean fr. Corrie (5b), (25); 26 Pta. Giordani E. face (9); 1 tr. Apr. 20 Gls. de la Girose et du Mont de Lans (6) ; 26 Pta. Gialin N.W. aréte (9); 26 Aig. d. Glaciers S.E. aréte (9); 27 Grauer Schimme N. aréte and N.W. aréte (19); 27 Graukogel W. aréte (19) ; - ie E. face Grépon (8), (9); Picc. Gruetta 25 (9); 27 Grundschartner r. N. (1c). . Ski 16 L’Herpie (6) ; 26 Hexenturm S. face (27) ; 27 Hochblassen S. face (1c) ; 27 Hochkogel S.W. face (19); 24 Hochrinneck S. Grat (3); 27 Hockstadel N.W. couloir (19); 27 Auss. Héllenalsp. N. aréte (lc); 26 Hérndlwand E. face (27); 27 Hihnerkrallkopf N.W. face (19); Hungerburghohe (29). 27 Innominata S.W. aréte (Ic). 27 Jedigol Dagh (1a). 27 Kaiserschild S.E. face (la); 26 Kammertalkopf E. aréte (19); 26 Kammer- talkopf S. face (19); 26 Mittl. Karwendelkopf N.E. face (27); 26 Keeskopf S. aréte (19); 26 Mt. Kerkeslin (1b); 27 Hint. Kindlkopf N. aréte (19) ; 26 Nied. Klammerképfe (14) ; 27 Kleinkaiserl. S.W. face (lc); 1 cr. Klocken-

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The Alpine Club Library. 451 kogel W. aréte (19); 26 Knallstein N.W. face (19); 27 Hint. Kopfwand N.E. face (lc); 25 Kote (3); 1 tr. 26 Kummetstein S.-N. arétes (1a). Dec. 20 1 a. ski Pic du Lac Blanc (6) ; 24 Cima da Lago by W. (9); 26 Lamm- kopf S. aréte (la); 26 Lehnender S.W. aréte (19); 27 Aig. de Leschaux French side (2); 1 tr. Pta. Lioy 26 aréte N. (8); 26 Corne orient de Loria S.E. aréte (2); 27 Luckenkogel W. aréte (19); 27 Lyskamm W. by N.E. face (2); 26 Lyskamm orient aréte del Naso (9). 27 Gr. Marbart fr. S.W. (19); 1 tr. Pta. Margherita S. aréte (9); 27 Mt. Maudit Grand-Muleta face (2); 27 Col Maudit N.W. face (2); winter 27 Meije centr. (2), (7); winter 17 Meije orientale (2); 27 Aig. de Mey N. face chimney (2); 26 Pta. Mezzena (9); 27 Aig. du Midi N. face (2); 27 Becca di Monciair N. face, N.E. aréte (9); 25 Grigna di Moncodeno N.E. face (9) ; 27 Mt. Blanc glacier de la Brenva (2); 1 tr. Apr. 27 Mt. Blanc Géant gl. to Vallot hut (1c); 27 Montasio fr. Val Dogna (23) ; 26 Monviso S. face (9); 26 ital. age Blanc by Pétéret aréte (8); 27 Modéon d. Buinz N. (22); 26 Mittersp. __ E. face (la). 26 ital. Pte. m. 2320 S.W. aréte Aig. Noire de Pétéret (8); 1 tr. 24 Périades S. aréte (8); 27 Becca di Nona E. face (9); 26 Becca di Nona N. aréte (9) ; 27 Nussinkkogel N.E. aréte and N. face (19). . 26 Bec d’Oiseau W. face (9). . 24 Mte. Palone §.E. face (9); 26 Becco d. Pazienza N. face (9); 1 tr. 26 Aig. du Peigne S.-N. (9); Aig. du Peigne W. aréte (9); 26 Aig. d. Pélerins N.W. face, S.W. aréte (9); 24 Mte. Pelmo direct N. face (9); 23 Mt. Rouge de Pétéret S.E. aréte, d. N. aréte (7); 27 Aig. de la Remuaz S.E. face (2) ; 27 Pflerscher Tribulaun N.E. aréte (1c) ; 26 Pte. Piaget (6); 27 Aig. du Plan aréte Pain-de-Sucre (2); winter Apr. 26 Aig. du Plan (24); 27 Aig. du Plat- de-la-Sélé aréte de Burlan (2); 25 Cerro d. Plata (3); 13 Pta. di Val Popena S. face (9) ; 26 Anticastello dij Popera(11); 1 tr. 26 Pta. Pousset S. face (8) ; 24 Cima di Pramperet S.-N. (9); 26 ital. Cima d. Presanella N.E. aréte (9). - 26 Colle Quaini N. face (9) ; winter 26 Col d. Quirlies (2), (6) ; 25 Quota (9). _ 26 Rax S.E. face of Preinerwand (14); 26 Corno di Vall Rabbia N. face (8) ; 26 Rauschberg N.W. face (27) ; 26 Rauthorn E. aréte (9); 26 D. du Requin fr. Chapeau & Cornes (9); 1 as. winter Apr. 26 Requin (24); 27 Capucin du Requin (2); 26 Riegelkofp N. aréte (19); 26 Riegelt E. aréte (19) ; Rimpfischh. N.W. ice-face (5a); 27 Aig. du Roc (2); 1 tr. 27 aréte des Rochassiers (2); 1 as. 26 on aréte d. Rochassiers (9); 1 tr. 27 aréte de Roche-Méane (2) ; 26 Gde. Rocheuse S.E. aréte (9) ; 26 Camp Col Rosa (4) ; 13 Croda Rossa 8. aréte (9); 1 as. 26 on Aigs. Rouges du Dolent (9) ; 1 tr. 24 Col Gde. Rousse (9) ; 27 Rumersp. E. face (1c). 27 Salzburger Turm (19); winter Sannin (7); 26 Aig. Sans-Nom W. aréte (9) ; 25 Saprafeld direct S. face (3); 27 KI. Sattelképfe S. Wand (19); 27 Schiis- selkarsp. S. face (lc); 1 tr. 25 Sella (9); 26 Si-Chan, nr. Pekin (68) ; 26 Sillingkopf S.W. aréte (19); 27 Sonneck S. face (lc); 25 Spik N. u. N.W. face (19); 26 Staffelatein E. face (27); winter 27 Stammersp. fr. N. (1c) ; 27 Stelachwand (19); 24 Corno Stella (8); 26 Stuhllocht (14); 26 Cima d. Sueur W. face (9). 27S. and N. Taghaube (19); 27 winter Taschh., Fee gl.-Mischabelj (la) ; 27 Picd. Tempétes by N. (6); 26 Bréche d. Tenailles (6); 1 tr. 27 Terza Grande (23) ; 26 Teufelskamp E. aréte (14); 26 Teufelskirchl. (la); 26 Throne Mt. (1); 13 Tofana di Fuori N.W. face (9); 27 Gr. Torlwieskopf S.E. aréte (19) ; 26 Gr. Térlwieskopf N.W. face (19); 26 Torsiule N. face (la); 26 Triglav N. face (27); 1 tr. 26 Trogkopf (19); 26 Dome de Tsan, E. aréte (9). 24 Cerro Uspallata (3). 26 Gran Vernel fr. Pian Trevisan (9); 1 tr. 26 Aig. Verte fr. Jardin aréte (9); 26 Oestl. Vierrinnenkopf 8S. aréte (la); 27 W. Vierinnenkopf N. face (19); 25 Camp di Villaco S.E. face (22); 26 Pta. Vittoria N. face (9). 26 Weissmies aréte S.-S.W. (9); 27 by Westpfeiler (19). 27 Zsigmondykopf (9); Zumsteinsp. W. face (2).

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452 Correspondence. CORRESPONDENCE. Tue ‘ Letters oF GERTRUDE BELL.’ To the Editor of the ALPINE JOURNAL. Dzar Cou. Strutt,—Following our conversation at the ‘ Belle- vedere,’ I enclose a letter and two exhibits, addressed to you by Heinrich Fuhrer of Gstaad. I sincerely hope that, through the pages of the ALPINE JOURNAL, you will remove the ambiguous situation in which he has been placed by statements in ‘ The Letters of Gertrude Bell.’ I can vouch for the statements he makes, and I also interviewed his brother Ulrich to confirm the date of military service, etc. Yours very truly, JosEPH Woop, jun. Dear CoLoneL StrvuTT,—Will you allow me, as an active Swiss guide, to clear up through your JouRNAL a blot on my name ? I have before me Miss Gertrude Bell’s very interesting Letters, edited by Lady Bell, D.B.E. In these Miss Bell describes, vol. i. pp. 123-28 [in a letter], from Rosenlaui, dated Sept. 8, 1901, an ascent of the Engelhorner, and on p. 126 she describes again how Ulrich Fuhrer (my elder brother) and she had ‘ to get Heinrich up.’ Further, she writes: ‘ The fact was, I think, that he lost his nerve, anyhow he declared that he could not get up, not with 50 ropes, and there was nothing to do but to leave him.’ Now this Heinrich is not I, but another guide with exactly the same name. This becomes clear when one reads Miss Bell’s description of this trip in an article called ‘Concerning Mountains’ in the National Review (November, 1901]. There on p. 619 she says: ‘ Ulrich’s brother Heinrich, who is made of the same admirable stuff, was reft from me at an early stage by the exigencies of the Swiss military service. He was replaced by one of a different character, the second Heinrich—he shall be anonymous, honest man.’ When I had to leave Miss Bell for my military service, after we had done part of the Engelhérner, she wrote in my official book of testimonials, 1901 : ‘Heinrich Fuhrer was with me as a guide from August 21 for 11 days. “We did together the Wetterhorn, the Schreckhorn, the Sim- melistock, King’s Peak and two new peaks in the Engelhorner chain. I was thoroughly satisfied with him, and was very sorry when he had to leave me. I hope to have his services again on many future occasions. (Signed) GERTRUDE LOWTHIAN BELL.’

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Correspondence. 458 I also enclose two further testimonials which Miss Bell wrote in my book and of which I am very proud, as coming from such an excellent lady mountaineer. This is also the reason why I should like you to let the Members of your Club know, through your paper, this for me very unpleasant coincidence. Thanking you in advance, I am, yours faithfully, HEINRICH FUHRER. Sports House, Gstaad, July 31, 1928. Copy of Testimonials, 1902. I have climbed with Heinrich Fuhrer from July 2 to August 7 this year, and am able to confirm most fully the favourable testi- monial I gave him last year. We had the good fortune to conquer together the hitherto unclimbed arétes between the Vorder Well- horn and the Great Wellhorn, and the Lauteraarhorn and the Schreckhorn. I should like, above all, to mention his admirable conduct and the mountaineering skill which he displayed on the Finsteraarhorn, on the face of which mountain we were caught in violent weather and obliged to bivouac for two nights—his courage and strength were unexhausted at the end of 57 hours’ climbing, and his cheerful temper is beyond all praise. (Signed) GERTRUDE LOWTHIAN BELL. Testimonial, 1904. I am glad to be able to record another successful 3 weeks’ climb- ing with Heinrich Fuhrer. We have done together the Lyskamm, 3 peaks of Monte Rosa, including the Dufour Spitze and the Tasch- horn by the Teufelsgrat, the Dent Blanche and the traverse of the Matterhorn from the Italian hut to Zermatt. In all these climbs Heinrich Fuhrer exhibited the competence and skill of which 1] have been accustomed to find him possessed. I was particularly pleased with the way in which he led up to the Teufelsgrat. We shall, I hope, have many future climbs together. (Signed) GERTRUDE LOWTHIAN BELL, Zermatt, September. [It will, of course, be obvious to Heinrich Fuhrer that a mistake in editing has been made. Such misunderstandings are bound to arise, especially when publishing letters written more than twenty- five years ago. No mountaineer acquainted with Heinrich Fuhrer could mistake him for the unfortunate ‘ Heinrich II,’ who came from another village and is now dead. Lady Bell has authorized us to publish the following Corrigendum :

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454 Correspondence. “Herr Heinrich Fuhrer, the well-known, admirable and courageous guide (now of the Sports House, Gstaad, Switzerland), is not the guide of the same name mentioned on p. 126, vol. i., of the “ Letters ”’ as having lost his nerve during the ascent of the Engelhorner. These two were cousins; and it was the latter, since dead, who shared in the ascent. * (Signed) FLORENCE BELL.’ A similar correction is being added to the new edition of the * Letters ’ and to the copy now in the Club Library. We are very glad to publish this correspondence, and trust that the character of a most excellent and still active guide is now thoroughly cleared.—Edvtor, ‘ A.J.’] ASCENTS OF KILIMANJARO. [We have been asked to publish the following correspondence.— Editor, ‘ A.J.’] To the Editor, EAST AFRICAN STANDARD, Deak Si1r,—I am extremely obliged to you for the prominence you gave to my previous letter on ‘ Ascents of Kilimanjaro.’ With your permission, I wish to supplement it in one or two details. To my list of complete ascents of Mount Kibo given therein must be added the following : July 1909. Herren Max Lange and Weigele «za Johannes Scharte. In the third of the series of articles on Kilimanjaro, which I con- tributed to the Cape Times in 1914, I mentioned this ascent as follows : ‘1909. Herr Lange. No details available.’ From that time until recently, I had been unable to obtain any details, or indeed verification of any kind, and consequently I dropped this name from my subsequent lists of ascents. I am indebted to the writer of the brochure ‘ Die Besteigungen des Kilimandjaro—Ein Historischer Uberblick’—Wilhelm Methner, recently published in Berlin, for the above information with details, Mr. 8S. A. Watt, B.Sc., writes to me from High Wycombe stating that his sister, Miss Eva Stuart Watt, gives the honour of the first complete ascent by a lady to Miss Macdonald in a letter she has addressed to the Hast African Standard, and at the conclusion he adds ‘ the honour of the topmost point therefore goes to Miss Sheila Macdonald.’ Mr. Kingsley Latham writes from Morogoro, Tanganyika, “ You and I know, the Alpine Club and the Mountain Club of S. Africa know, and everyone who has any real interest in Kilimanjaro knows e actual position, viz. that we failed to reach Kaiser Wilhelm pitze, but reached another point on the crater... .

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Correspondence. 455 “My rather belated congratulations upon your _ repeating your 1914 achievement, and please convey to Miss Macdonald my whole-hearted congratulations and those of my wife on her fine ormance.’ Prof. Hans Meyer of Leipzig, who made the first complete ascent in 1889, after two unsuccessful assaults in previous years, and who is the author of the standard works m English and German upon the mountain, writes in one of his recent letters to me, ‘I am especially mterested in your critical paper on the claim of Fraulein L. Miiller to have reached the top of Kilmanjaro. Her account is quite absurd, and, as I hear and read from East Africa, nobody in Moshi or Marang believes in her having been the first lady on Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze. I heartily congratulate you and Miss Macdonald on your admirable achievements.’ Miss Gertrude Benham, the well-known traveller, arrived in England this week, but I have so far been unable to get into touch with her. It is perfectly certain that she will confirm what I wrote in my former letter which you published, concerning the point on the mountain to which she ascended. Since writing the above, the following letter has come to hand : Maranav. P.O. Mosnt, 3/1/28. ‘Dear Mr. WEstT,—It 1s a pleasure for me to be able to make the following statements. On October 14, 1927, I was once more on the Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze, and, together with Oforo, the guide, inspected the ‘‘ Kibo-Gipfel-Book.” I found the following record beneath my name. ‘Miss Sheila Macdonald and Mr. W. C. West reached this point at 2 p.m., 31/7/27.” ‘There was no record of Fraulein Miillerin the book. Mr. Zeidler, an acquaintance, climbed the mountain on October 27, 1927, reaching the Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze. He inspected the book, and brought back a copy of the records which he found. These records correspond absolutely with mine. . . . Kindest regards from Rev. Paul and Mrs. Rother and myself. “R. Reuscu. Missionary.’ This reverend gentleman contemplated a double attack on Mawenzi and Kibo for January 4, with what success I have not yet learned. I am, Yours truly, (Signed) Wrtit1aM C. WEsT. THE ALPINE CLUB, LoNpDon, February 9, 1928. [Miss Briggs with Mr. P. E. W. Williams attained Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze on February 22, 1928. This is the second ascent of Kibo by a lady.—Edttor ‘ A.J.’]

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456 Corrwgenda to No. 286. PROCEEDINGS OF THE ALPINE CLUB. A GENERAL MEETING of the Club was held in the Hall, 23 Savile Row, London, W. 1, on Tuesday, May 1, 1928, Sir George H. Morse, President, in the Chair. The following candidates were balloted for and elected Members of the Club, namely, Messrs. James George Stanley Gausden and Lincoln O’Brien. The PRESIDENT announced with regret the death of Mr. Alexander Crossman, elected in 1871. He died on October 9, 1927. Members were informed that H.I.H. The Prince Chichibu of Japan had accepted Honorary Membership of the Club. The regulations with regard to the Annual Winter Dinner were approved, nem. con. | Lt.-Col. E. L. Strutt, Editor of the ALPINE JOURNAL, made a statement with regard to the Italian Passes in the Alps. Mr. EK. H. F. Brapgy then read a Paper entitled ‘Some Mountain- eering Experiences and Conclusions.’ Discussion was carried on by a number of members, and the proceedings closed with a cordial vote of thanks to Mr. Bradby. CORRIGENDA TO No. 236. Illustrations facing pp. 23, 27 and 31 are by H. Ruttledge. Illustrations facing pp. 106 and 107 are all by F. Boissonnas. P. 161, line 36, for August ‘1’ read August ‘ 30.’ P. 162, lines 28 and 29, read ‘ Mademoiselle “* Mary Paillon ’”’ was our Vice-President for France.’ E. Le B. Illustration facing p. 166. This photograph is taken from a point somewhere to the W. of Pt. 2832 m. on the left bank of the Rottal Glacier and not from the Ebnefluh. J. P. F. P. 168, for HULLEHORN by the ‘ W’ face, read ‘ EK.’ face. A. B. P. 181, line 31, read ‘ bewirtschaftet.’ P. 186, paragraphs 3 and 4, read ‘ Iseran.’ Printed in England at THE BALLANTYNE PREss by SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE & Co. LTp. Colchester, London & Eton

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457 INDEX Vout. 40, Nos. 236 anp 237 CORRIGENDA TO NO. 237° P. 224, last paragraph, Mr. A. F. Broun points out that ‘ pink laurels’ should probably read ‘ oleanders.’ P. 319, footnote, Count A. Bonacossa points out that besides the ascents mentioned, at least six others are reported, notably one in 1923 by Signor Jervis of Turin, in which the summit of the Signalkuppe was attained in 6 hours from the Von Flua Alp and Gressoney the same evening ! P. 347, illustrations, the titles of plates XVII. and XVIII. should be transposed. P. 358, illustrations, figures 2 and 3, should be transposed. P. 370, line 28, for Mt. ‘ Allon’ read Mt. ‘ Collon,’ O. E. Illustration facing p. 385, Mt. Redoubt, for ‘ Rutes’ read Routis’’ and for ‘ Fubrer ’ read ‘ Fuhrer.’ P. 388, AIGUILLE BLANCHE DE PETERET, second paragraph, Captain 8. L. Courtauld points out that Sir Seymour King’s party crossed the Col Eccles, or at any rate some near-by variation, in both directions, when making the first ascent of the mountain in 1885. ‘A.J.’ 12, 431 et seq.; 24, 679 and 38, illustration facing 232. P. 389, line 10, for ‘12.30’ read ‘13.50.’ E. T. P. 396, line 25, read ‘ Laquinjoch.’ P. 404, footnote. We are very glad to hear that Signor Matteoda is safe and sound. E.L.S. P. 407, line 15, read ‘ Tageblatt.’ P. 408, line 24, should read... ‘on our right, S[outh]. M[onsieur] Bregeault’s route... ’ VOL. XL.—NO. CCXXXVII. 2H

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INDEX CoMPILED By Miss M. H. JAMES. For Obituary Notices, see In MEmMoRIAM, in CONTENTS, and for Reviews of Books see also CONTENTS. AsRuUzzI, H.R.H. the Duke of, and Petigax, 398, 399 Accidents, 6, 65, 358 1882, 183-4 1896, 20 1899, 116 1911, 188, 192 1914, 195 1925, 401 1927 and 1928, 12, 70, 180, 184, 192, 195, 198, 199, 358, 385, 396, 401, 416 sqq. Queen Victoria on, 183 Ski-ing, 1927-8, 189 Aconcagua, Guideless attempt at, on Ski, 418, 425 Adula Frontier, the, 181 Aermighorn, Accident on, 419 Ailefroide, New Carriage Road to, 405 A.A.C Basle, Huts of, 402 A.A.C. Berne Huts of, A.C. Members allowed use of, 180 Officers of, 180, 410 A.A.V., Miinchen, 279 Expeditions of, in 1927, 185 Alai Range, Russo-German Expedi- tion in, 406-7 Almer, Christian (sen.), guide, 135, 18, 400 Christian (jun.), guide, 15 Hans, guide, 410 Rudolf, guide, 118 Ulrich, guide, 17, 18, 239, 309, 382, 423 Alpes, Route des, 186 Alpine Climbing Party, Dauphiné, 1928, 199 ALPINE CLUB Dinner, Winter, 191, 219 Exhibitions of Alpine Paintings, 220, 362 Alpine Photographs, 146, 218 Gifts to, 181, 185, 408 Hon. Scc., Additional Post of, 191 ALPINE CLUB—cont. Hon. Librarian, 191 Journal, Correct Style of, 191 Library, Additions, 181, 407, 408. 435, 454 Members Deaths, 150, 177, 180 217, 218, 219, 220, 365, 398, 407, 410, 456 Elected, 217, 218, 219, 456 of 50 years standing, 179 Honorary, 179, 191, 199, 456 Deaths, 371, 407 Obituaries (see also, in CONTENTS, In MEMORIAM), 150, 365 No Connexion of, with any Films, 186 Officers Elected, 218 Proceedings, 217, 456 Royal Censure narrowly Avoided by, 183 Votes of Thanks, 217, 218, 219, 220, 456 A.C.C. Summer Camps, 195, 196, 190 Alpine Fauna, 43, 79, 110, 111, 112, 113, 115, 156, 233, 257 Alpine Flora, 79, 90, 91, 109, 110, 114, 224, 226, 227, 230, 234, 240-1, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 264, 256, 257, 258, 259, 285, 286, 291, 304, 3056, 314, 336, 364, 367 ALPINE JOURNAL, Correct Name of, Alpine Notes, 177, 398 Alpinisme, Journal of C.A.F. Aca- démique, 188 Alps, Division of, Italian Commission on, 117 Alps, the, The New Frontiers in, 292 Eastern, Accidents in, 419 Western, 1927 Expeditions in, of A.A.V., Miinchen, 185 Altels Glacier, 184 2H 2

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460 Alto, Campanile: New Ascent, 169 Amatter, Franz, guide, 182, 330, 401 Ambin, Dent d’, N. Aréte of, First Ascent, 371 American Alpine Club, Hon. Member of, 180 American Notes, 195, 414 Amery, Julian (@t. 9), Ascents by, 400 Amery, Mt., 110, 199 Anderegg, Andreas and Johann, Fatal Accident to, 358 Jakob, guide, 49 Melchior, guide, 49 Andermatten, Ambrose, guide, 396 Andes, the, ‘ Accident’ in, 418, 425 — Aneroid, The Paulin, 360 Anti-Atlas Group, 223 Arves, Aigs. de Mauvais Pas of, 15, 16 sqy. Note on, 402 Meéridionale d’ (1899), 31 Ascent, 9 Accident on, 12 Note on, 402 Atlas Mts., The High, 221 Mountaineering in, 233 Anti, 223 Middle, 223 Aufdenblatten, Adolf, guide, 424 Avalanches, 9, 30, 49, 184, 195, 275, 284, 290, 315, 322, 358 Bapbiue, Piz, Accident on, 184 Bainbridge-Bell, Rev. F. C.: death, | 177, 219, 365 Barran, A.: death, 217 Baumann, Theodor, guide, 353 Beaumont, Pte., Descent of E. Face, 391 Belgian Mountaincers, 184 Bell, Miss G., the late, Memorial Window to, 405 Belledone, Accident on, 419 Bennington Peak: First Ascent, 197 Bernese Oberland Climbers’ Guide to, under Revision, 403 Expeditions in New, 165, 380 Various, 175, 396 Mrs. Beaufoy’s Journey Through, 1787, 261 Bernet, Peter, guide, 329) Bernina (W. Wing) Group, Expeditions in, 169 Besso, Lo, Accident on, 419 Bich, Jean Baptiste, guide, 161, 181 New Index. Bicknell, R. P.: death, 12, 217 Biner, Franz, guide, 389 Théodule, guide, 396 Bionnassay, Aig. de, Accident on, 70 Blaitiére, Aig. de: Nantillons face, First Ascent, 410 Blackhorn, Mt.: First Ascent, 197 Blanc, Auguste, guide, 371 — le Greffier, guide, 371 Justin, guide, 371 Blanc, Mt., Ascents by and from Aig. Blanche de Pétéret: List of Times made by von Kehl, 182 Brenva Aréte, 389 Brenva Glacier: First Direct, 68 Chamonix: First British, 261, 279 Col de la Brenva, 45 E. Face: First, 58 Red Sentinel, 374-5 S. or Brouillard Aréte: 388 S. Face, 389 S.E. or Pétéret Aréte, 389, 401 Blanc, Mt., de Courmayeur Ascents, by, and from Brenva Glacier, 372 Glacier de Taléfre, 76 Great Buttress Route, 375 Blanc, Mt., Group Expeditions in New, 163, 372 Various, 188, 387 Maps of, 178 Blanc, Pierre, guide, 356, 371, 393, 94; on the Use of Raquettes, 400 Blanche, Aig., Accident on, 65, 184 Blanche, Dent, Accidents on (1882), 184; (1928), 419 Ascents by E. Aréte, 392 N. Aréte, 376 N.E. Face and N. Aréte, 377 Bolivia Cordillera of Ascents, 404 German Expedition to, 184 Bonacossa, Cte. A., Escape of, 184 Book Reviews, sce, under CONTENTS, REVIEWS Bortelhorn (Pta. del Ressio): New Ascent by N. Face and N.W. Aréte, 169 Boss, Emil, guide, 283 Bow Lake, 177 Bozon, Marcel, guide, 163, 199, 409 Brawand, Samuel, guide, 330, 380 Bregaglia Val, Flooding of, 185 Breithorn, the Accident on, 423 Second,

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Index. Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen, Ascent by S. Aréte, 396 Breitlauihorn ; Ascent, 408 Brenta Group, New Expeditions in, 169 Brocherel, Alexis, guide, 182 Brouillard, Mt., Col Emile Rey of: Second Ascent from the E., 387-8 Bruciati, Corni, Monograph on, 407 Bruce, J. A. B,. Elected Hon. Mem. S.A.C., Geneva Section, 191 Cacnat, André, guide, 199 Georges, guide, 183, 390, 422 Camps, 195, 196 Cambrena, Piz, Accident on, 419 Canadian and American Notes, 195, 414 Canadian Rocky Mts., New Expe- ditions in, 382 Carfrae, J. A.: death, 398, 410 Carnic Alps, Highest Points of, 299 Carrel, Jean Antoine, guide, 316 Luigi, guide, 316, 319, 322, 327 Casemate, Mt.: Ascent, 385 Casse, Grande-Grand Motte Traverse, 114 Castle, Mt.: First Ascent, 196 Cathkin Peak: First and other Ascents, 397 Chamonix, Mrs. Beaufoy's Journey to, 1787, 261 Chardonnet, Aig. de: First Ascent by Woman, 162 S. Face: First Ascent, 164 Charlet, Armand (guide), 47, 187, 390, 391, 403, 405, 421; <Acci- dent to, 422, 423 Charmoz and Grépon, Traverse of, Note on, 181 Charlton, Mt.: First Ascent, 382 Chenoz, Alphonse, guide, 54, 403, 404 Chiara, —, guide, 319, 320, 323 Chichibu, H.I.H. Prince, of Japan, Hon. Mem. A.C., 179, 456 Cinto, Mte., Group, 172 Cleaver, The, to Mt. Jumbo: First Traverse, 384 C.A.F. Accidents to Members of, 417 G.H.M. of, Criticism of, deprecated, 418 Membership of, Increased, 188 Huts, 16, 316 . C.A.F. Académique, Journal of, 188 C.A.I. and the Closing of the Italian Alps, 1 461 Cocher or Kutscher, Peter, guide, 277 Coda, Pta.: Ascent, 175 Columbia Icefield, Expedition in, 198 Commander, Mt., to The Cleaver : Traverse, 384 EK. T.: Memorial Hut erected to, 400 Comte, Armand, guide, 238 Conway, Sir W. M., 50 years a Member of A.C., 179 Coolidge, W. A. B., Books from the Library of, presented to A.C., 408 Cop, Joze, guide, 180, 331 sqy. Correction, 114 Correspondence Ascents of Kilimanjaro, from W. C. West, 454 A, of Heinrich Fuhrer, from J. Wood, jun., and Heinrich Fuhrer, 452 Ski-Runners, A Defence of, from Lt.-Col. C. Hordern, 213, and from F. 8. Smythe, 214 Corrigenda, see under CONTENTS Corsica, New Expeditions in, 172 Cotatuero, Cirque of, 39, 41 Courtes, Les: Ascent from the Glacier de Taléfre, 76 Couttet, Alfred, guide, 163, 409 Crampons Used, 50, 72, 73 Crete, Expeditions in, 243 Cros, Michel, guide, 406 Crossman, A.: death, 177, 456 Crouan, O. N., guide, 164 Croux, Evaristo, guide, 399, 403 Croux, Laurent, guide, 182, 404 Cuga, Comm., Hon. Mem., Himalayan Club, 399 Cupelin, Auguste, guide, 238 Edouard, guide, 160, 161 Compton, Defence, Daf, P., guide, 114 Dames Anglaises, Breche Centrale des: Ascents from Fres- nay side, 182 La Vierge Tooth of: Ascent, 403 Dauphine, Alpine Climbing Party of, Plans of, 1928, 199 Climbs in, 3 Expeditions in, 188, 386 Défage, Edouard, guide, 352 D. & CE. A.-V. Expedition, Peaks Climbed by, 404 Dévouassoud, Camile, guide, 164, 187, Francois, guide, 152 Monument to, 400

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462 Diable, Aigs. du, Traverse from, to Mt. Blanc du Tacul, 390 Diablerets, Accident on, 419 Dibona Angelo, guide, 188 Diener, Dr. K.: death, 180 Dolent, Mt., Accident on (1911), 192 Dolomites, Accidents in, 419 Dom, the, Winter Ascents of, First and other, 409 E. Face of ; First Ascent, 352-3 Routes up; Notes on, 352 Drakensberg Mts., Climbs in, 108, 109 Various Expeditions in, 397 Drei Herrn Spitze, the, 299 Dru, Petit, Accidents on, 419, 420 a7. Drus, Aigs. des: Ascents, 234 Winter Ascent, First, and Traverse, 187 Diibi, Dr. H., Eightieth Birthday of, 407 Dufourspitze ; Ascent by E. Face, 394 Ear. Grey, Mt.: First Ascent, 383 East Rounton Church, Memorial Window in, to Miss G. Bell, 405 Eastern Alps, Accidents in, 419 Eorins, Les: First Winter Ascent, 187 First Winter Traverse, 187 Accident on, 419 Dome de Neige des, Second Ascent by N.W. Face, 386 Eiger, Ascent by Mittcllegigrat, 401 N. Face: Descent, 329 N.E. Face: First Ascent, 330 Engelhérner, Die: Entire Chain . Climbed, 408 Ermatinger, Mt.: First Ascent, 382 Evans, Mt.: First Ascent, 382 Everest, Mt., Assault on, American Interest in, 415 Potin on, 187 Expeditions New, 163, 372 Various, 175, 386 Eyrik’s Jékull, 86, 90, 91 Fars, M. le Dr. H., Pres., S.A.C., Guest at A.C. Dinner, 191, Hon. Mem. A.C., 191. Farrar, Capt. J. P., Hon. Mem. American A.C., 180 Fay, Prof. C. H., Hon. Mem. A.C., 199 Fenestrale, Dent de: Descent of E. face, 391 Feuz, Edward, (jun.), guide, 196 Fiera, Torre: Ascent, 174 Fiescherhorn, Klein, see Ochs Index. Finestra, Pta.: Ascent, 174 Finsteraarhorn, Accident on, 419 New Ascent by entire S.E. Aréte, 167 Fixed Cord, 21 Fletcher, P.: death, 217 © Fletachhorn: Ascent by N. Face, 379 Florence, Mt., First Ascent, 383 Forbes-Lyell Group: Ascents, 198 Fortun, Arne and Knut, guides, 176 Fortunatus, The Godfathers of, 37 Freshfield, D. W., Letters received by, on the Monument to Petigax, 399 Fryatt Mt.: First Ascent, 196 Fuchs, Fritz, guide, 165, 166 Fuhrer, Alexander, guide, 240 Hans, guide, 196, 386 Heinrich, guide, 175, 240, 242, 401, 452 aqq. Heinrich II, guide, 240, 452, 453, 454 Ulrich, guide, 175, 234, 236, 237, 238, 241, 242, 252 Fux, Heinrich, guide, 352, 395 GaBET, M. le Baron, Honour conferred on, 191 Gaspard, Maximin, the late, guide, 114, 115 Geikie, Mt.: Ascent, 196 New Route up, 196 Georges, Antoine, guide, 376 Joseph, Le Skieur, guide, 52, 376 Genoud, Jean, guide, 376 Gesner, Conrad, Portrait Medal of, 145 Geysers, Icelantic, 90, 98 Glaciers, Aig. des: Ascent, 408 Glockner, Gross : Ascent by Complete Traverse of the Pallavi- cintrinne, 185, 405 Gnifetti, Pta., 315 Godafoss, the, 94 Graham, Dave, guide, 111 Peter, guide, 111, 112, 113 Grass, Christian, guide, 152 Hans, guide, 152 Graven, Alexander, guide, 392 Greenland, Dr. Longstaff’s Expedi- tion to, 399 Grépon, Accident on, 419 Aig. de, E. or Mer de Glace Face, Ascended and Descended on the Same Day, 403 ‘Knubel’ Chimney on; First and other Ascents, 6] Roc du, Aig. de; Ascent, First, 163, 164 bd

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Index. Grisons, Canton of, Floods in, 185 Gromier, Joseph, guide, 114 Séraphin, guide, 114 Grotelle, Capo de; Ascent, 172 Gschnitzer-Tribulaun, the, New Route up, 185 Guillemin, Paul: death, 404 Gullfoss, the, 86 Hau, W. E., Paintings by, bought for A.C. Library, 407 Haugli, Peter, guide, 406 Hawley, Mt.: First Ascent, 383 Hekla, Mt.: Ascents, 85, 86 Heljardalsheithi Pass, crossing of, 93 Hellenic Alpine Club, Foundation of, 107, 191 Hermon, Mt., 338 Ascent, 339-40 Himalaya, Italian Expedition to, 84, 399 Kumaon, Two Passes in, Crossed, 28 Himalayan Club, The, 191, 410 Equipment Sub-Committee of, 413 Formation and Objects of, 192 Founder-Members and Officers of, 194 Hon. Members of, 399 Local Secretaries and Correspon- dents, 41] Maps, 412-13 Route Books and Guide of, Re- vision of, 410-11 Himalayan Notes, 192, 410 Hochgall Peak (Coll’ Alto), 299 Holmes, O. W., Long Judgeship of, 406 Howard, E.: death, 150, 217 Hugonnet, V., 163 Hiillehorn: New Ascent by E. Face, 168, 456 Huts, Bivouacs, Inns, Refuges, Cabanes, Shelters, <&c.; 199; Adele Planchard, new, of S.T.D., 186; Adula (new), 181; Allievi, 186, 311, 313; Alpe, de Il’, 5; Around, 225, 227; Badile, 186; Ball, 111, 112; Balm- horn, 188 ; Basodino, 402 ; Belvedere, 168; Bergli, 329; Beéetemps, 393, 394, 395; Bietschhorn, 180; Biferten, 402; Bismarck, 78; Bordier, 395; Boval, 153, 188; Carrelet, 7; Cavardiras, 402; Cecilia, 186, new, 407; Chancel, 5; Chalet Hotel, Iseran, 186, 468 Huts—conl. 456; Chalet, 405; Char. poua, 187, 391, 420, 421, 422; Chatelleret, 5; Citta di Busto, 181 ; Concordia, 43; Couvercle, 52; De- fiance, 113; Disgrazia, 186 ; Dollfuss, 240 ; Dome, 388, 389 ; Engelhorn, 180; Finsteraarhorn, 168, 401 ; Forno, 160; Gamba, 62, 66, 387, 388, 389, 390; Gandegg, 400; G.H.M. Shelter (proposed), 57; Gianetti, 186; Glacier Hotel, 108; Gleckstein, 380; Gnifetti, 825; Gria- letsch, 402; Gudu, 108, 190; Kalivia, 105, 106; King, 111, 112; Lac Noir, du, 6; Laquinthal (proposed), 396; Lau- taret, 4; Lombard, 16, 22, destroyed, 402; Luigi Amedeo, 316; Lyon-Ré- publiquain, 9; Malte Brun, 112; Mittellegi, 401; Mt. aux Sources, 190; Oberaar, 401; Pao- lo Ferrario, 186; Pieters, 79, 81; Ponti, 407 ; Quin- tino Sella, 388; Regina Margherita, 318, 321, 323, 324, 325; Reisskofel, 400 ; République, de la, 5; Requin, 46, 163, 391; Resegotti, 320; Rottal, 166; Schénbihl, 392, 393; Schwarzegg, 401; Sciora, 188; Skayastdls, 172, 176, 177; Tachdirt, 225; Théodule, 400; To- pali, 392; Torino, 46, 51, 67, 70, 372, 389, 390; Torla, 41; Trelatete, 408 ; U.T.O.E., 181; Vallot, 388, 389; Wheeler (pro- posed), 199 IcELAND, Mts. of, Journeys through, 85 Ice-wall of Mt. Blanc de Courmayeur, Ida, Mt. (Cretan): Ascent, 245, 255 Illampu, and other Bolivian Peaks : Ascents, 404 Imboden, Victor, guide, 404 Imseng. Xaver, guide, 353, 355, 356 Inderbinen, Moritz, guide, 153, 156

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464 Innovators, 151 Iseran, Col d’, New Chalet Hotel on: Bibulous Burglar at, 186 Road over, projected, 186 Israel, The Mts. of, 338 Italian Alps, Closing the, 1, 398, 456 Italian Himalayan Expedition, 184, 399 JAGERHORN: Ascent, 393 Jalovec, N. Face: Firat Ascent, 179 Jorasses, Grandes N. Face: Attempted, 404 N.E. Aréte, Ascent, by, 404 S.E. or Tronchey Aréte, Conquest of, 403 Jossi, Christian (sen.), guide, 329, 330, 410 Christian (jun.), guide, 423 Julian Alps, 1927 Season in, 179 Julen, J. M., guide, 392 Jungfrau, Accident on, 419 Ascent by N.E. Aréte, 175 First Traverse taken on the Decs- cent, 175 S. Face; New Ascent, 165 Thioly and Pilkington Routes up, in 1862, 357 Jungfrau Joch, Crossings of First, Note on, 188 Times taken, 188-9 Observatory on, 360 . Italian Se to Attempt, 399 Kailas Parbat : Attempts, guideless, 23 Kain, Conrad, guide, 383, 384 Kakalos, Kristo, guide, 101, 102, 103, 105, 106 Kalbermatten, Johann, guide, 396 Theodor, guide, 396 Kaldidalur, the, 88, 91 Kangchenjunga, Expedition to, planned for 1929, 407 Karakoram, the, Italian Expedition to: personnel, 184, 399 Katerina, Jebel, 339 Kaufmann, Christian, guide, 423 Kaufmann, Mt.: Ascent, 406-7 Kaufmann, Ulrich, guide, 283, 329 Keas, Mischievous ways of, 112-13 Kebnekaise (Mt.), Sweden: Ascents, 405 Kennedy, Sir A. B. W.: 410 Kerkeslin, Mt.: First Ascent, 197 Kesch, Piz, Accident on, 419 death, 398, Index. Kilimanjaro: Ascents, 77, 454 First Ascent by a Woman, 77, letter on, 82 Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze: First Ascent, 81 Kibo and Mawensi Peaks: Ascents, Lists of, 84 Kjerringa : Ascent 176 Klucker, Christian, guide, 163, 310, 311 Recovery of, 405 on the Ascent of the N.E. Face of Lyskamm, 116 Knots for Climbers, 120, 340 Knubel, Josef, guide, 63, 117, 387, 388, 389, 390, 392, 423 LaMpB, R.: death, 159, 218 Lang Jokull, 91, 97 Lapensée, Peak: First Ascent, 196 Lapland, Swedish Publication on, 406 Lauener, Ulrich, guide, 166 Lauteraarhorn, Gross: Ascent, 239 Lauteraarhorn - Schreckhorn : Tra- verse, the First, 243 Lefroy, Mt., Accident on, 198 Leone, Mte: New Ascent by N.N.W. Face, 168 Lépiney, Jacques de, 188 Lepontine Alps, New Expeditions in, 168 Lerjen, Josef, guide, 63 Leroy, Mt.: Accident on, 198 Leschaux, Aig. de: N.W. Face of, First Ascent, 51 Lettre de M. Bourrit, Gift of, to A.C., 181 Linda Glacier, Accident on (1914), Bodies found (1927), 195 Little Yoho Valley, A.A.C. Camp in, 199 Lochmatter, Franz, guide, 58, 239, 392, 393, 408 Josef, guide, 58, 239; (Josef M.) death of, and of his son (Josef), 184 Rafael, guide, 393, 424 Xaver, guide, 393 Logan, Mt., Expedition, Statement of Accounts of, 195 Lombard Alps, Heights in, 301 Longstaff, Dr. T. G., Awarded Founder's Medal by R.G.S., 399 Biological Expedition of, to Green- land, 399 Lotschenliicke, the: Traverse of, 43 Lyskamm, N.E. Face: Ascenta, 115, Klucker on, 116

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Index. Maitre, Pierre, guide, 507, 508 Maligne Lake Group, Canada, New Expeditions in, 382 Mallory, Mt., and Mt. Irvine, Note on, 415 Maquignaz, Daniel, guide, 395 Martel, E. A., Elected Président de la S. de G., Paris, 402 Martuljek : Crossing of, 179 Masino District, High Level Path in, 186 Mathon, Jules, guide, 4 s7y7., 240, 402 Matterhorn: Accidents on, 419 Novel on, 406 N.E. Face, Reconnaissance of, 404 Maudit, Col.: Ascents First, 66, 188 Other, 66 S.W. Slope of, 188 Maurer, Andreas, guide, killed, 184 Meade, the Misses (ce/. 7, 11, and 13), Climbs by, 400 Meije, La, Accidents on (1896), 20; (1911), 188 Ascents: First by a Woman, 161, 162 Arétes de la: Reached direct, 188 Etancons Face of: First Ascent, 188 Mello, Pta.: Ascent, 174 Mentone, Mte.: Ascent, 174 Michell, Col. J. W. A.: death, 217 Midi, Dents du, La Haute Cime des, 351 Milne, F. M., Sir George, Promotion of, 185 Minarets, the: Traversed, 112 Minchinton, H. D.: death, 217 Minor, P. S.: death, 217 Mojstrovka: First Ascent, 179 N. Face: First Ascent, 337 S.E. Face: First Ascent by a Woman, 331 Monch, The, Observatory on, 359 Moniccia, La: Ascent, 172 Monier-Williams, M. F.: death, 398, 410 Monro, Rev. C. G.: death, 177, 218 Montague, C. E., death, 369, 398 Moore, Col., 71 Mooser, Kaspar, guide, 378, 379, 395, 404 Morocco, Mts. of, 221 Morris, Capt. C. J., Awarded R.G.S. Murchison Grant, 399 Mortimer, A.: death, 217 Motta, Nicola, guide, 388 Mountaineering Experiences and Con- clusions, Some, 304 Mountaineering Film, A, 186 465 Mountaineers, Hereditary, 400 Mumm, A. L.: death, 154, 177, 218, 281, Note re, 399 Musa, Jebel (Sinai), 339 Mystery, Mt. (Mt. George Dawson): Ascent, 415 * Attempts on,’ 99 Waddington and, 414 NADELHORN : Ascent by N. Face, 395 Nanda Devi: Attempted, 281, 283, 284 Nanda Ghungti, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290 Natal Mountain Club and Huts on Mt. aux Sources, 190 Summer Camp of, 1928, 397 Neame, G. H.: death, 177, 220, 368 New Zealand, Alps Climbs in, 108 Crossing of, 111 New Zealand Notes, 195 Nom, Pic Sans, (Dauphiné) wrongly named, 404 (Mt. Blanc) Traverse from, to Aig. Verte, 405 Norway, Expeditions in New, 171 Various, 176 Noti, Lorenz, guide, 355 OBSERVATORY, Memorial, on the Monch, 359 Ochs, the, or Klein Fiescherhorn : Descent, 118 (E.A.Z., the, 404 Oetzthal Mts., Highest Peak in, 208 Ofenhorn, the, 181 Oforo, native guide, 84 Ojtzl, M., 180 Olympus, Mt., International Expedi- tion to: Ascent, 104 Mitka: Ascents: List, 102-3 Re-named, 107 Stefan: Ascents: List, 103 Notes on, 101, 402 Oriente, Pta.: Ascent, 174 Oro, Mte., Group, 172 Ortler Range, 301 Pat, Piz: First Winter Ascent, 152 Passet, Célestin, guide, 41 Payot, Frederic, guide, 161, 238 Pennine Alps Accident in, 423 Expeditions in New, 376 Various, 391

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466 Pére Eternel, Le: Ascent, 183 Perrin, F.: death, 180 Pétéret Aig. Blanche de Accidents on, 65, 184, 401 Ascent, 62 Box found on, 401] First Traverse without a Bivouac, 388 Aig. Noire de: By N.E. Face, Ascent, 403 N. Arcte: Attempted, 181 Col de, Accident on, 65 Petigax, Joseph, guide, Monument to, 3 Petrus, Johann, guide, 355 Killed, 65 184 Pharaoh Peak, E. Summit: Ascent, 383 Pic, Emile, guide, 20 Plan, Aig. du, E. Face: First Ascent, 58, 408 Point 2500 m.: Ascent, 174 Pillar, N.W. and 8.W. Faces: Second Ascents, 159 Pollinger, Heinrich, guide, 392 Josef, guide, 48, 352, 354, 357 Pozzolo, Mte.: Ascent, 174 Torre: Ascent, 175 Prisoinik, Mt.: Accident on, 180 Proment, Lucien, guide, 182, 389 Puiseux, P.: death, 398, 407 Purcell Range, New Expeditions in, 383 Pyrences, the, Climbs in, 38 Flight over, 325 First ' Ratam Pass, 28, 30 Rampart Group, New Expeditions in, 384 Rauris, the, Ski-ing Accident in, 189 Ravanel, Edouard, guide, 163, 409 Jean, guide, 238, 422 Joseph, guide, 238 Redoubt, Mt., Accidents on, 199, 385 Ascent, 384 Attempted, 196 Regaud, Lt.-Col., Prés., C.A.F., at A.C. Dinner, 191 Death, 371, 398 Regaud, Pic: First Ascent, 371 Republique Aig. de la: Second Ascent, 409 Requin, Capucin du: New Ascent, 163 Rettangulo, Mte.: Ascent, 174 Rey, Adolphe, guide, 48, 54, 403, 404 Emile, guide, 160, 161, 181, 238, 239 Index: Rey, Henri, guide, 382, 399 Rey (two), sons of Henri, guides, 399 Rhone Glacier, Accident on, 419 Richardson, Miss K.: Ascente by, 160, Notes on, 181, 238, 239 Death of, 160 Richmond, Jock, guide, 195 Rinti Saddle, 287 Rizzi, L., guide, 188 Rochefort, Calotte de: Ascents by S. Face and by E. Aréte, 403 Rodier, Casimir, guide, 187 Maximin, guide, 419 Rope, Use of, 312 Rosa, Mte.: First Ascent 30 S. Face: Ascent, 394 Roseg, Piz: Variation in Route up, 153 Rotondo Group, (Corsica), 172 Mte., N.W. Face: New Ascent, 172, 174 Torre de: Ascent, 175 Rottalhorn: Accident on, 424 Royal Geographical Society Awards of, 399 Indian Maps of, Access to, 413 and the Petigax Monument, 399 Rubi, Adolf, guide, 175 Rufi, Pta.: Ascent, 174 Ruppen, Moritz, guide, 423 Russo-German Expedition to the Alai Range, 406-7 SaMpeson, Mt.: First Ascent, 383 Sassiére, Petite, Accident on (1896), 20 Savioz, Marcel, guide, 376 Scerscen, Piz (Mte. di), New Route up, 401 Schaller, Adolf, guide, 115, 409 Josef, guide, 115 Scott, Mt., N. and S. Peaks: First Ascents, 382 Schuster, Sir Felix, 50 years a Member of A.C., 179 S.A.C. Gift by, to A.C., 408 Hon. Member Elected, 191 Huts New, 188, 402 Visitors to, 188 Ségogne, M. de., Thanks conveyed by. to A.C., 424 Seilon, Glacier de, Fatal Accident on. 368 Seltau Range, Glaciers of, explored, 407

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Index. Sentinel, the: Ascent, 110 Serbal, Mt., 339 Sgurr-nan-Gillean, Pinnacles of, Gorge between: First As- cent, 159 Shomer, Um, 339 Sibille, E., guide, 114 Signalkuppe, E. Aréte: First and other Ascents, 319, 320 Sigurdeson, Ogmundar, guide, 96 Sils, Lake of, proposed Barraging of, 185 Simler’s ‘ Vallesiae Descriptio et de Alpibus Commentarius’ : The History of the De Thou Copy, 141 Simond, A., guide: death, 162, 218 Ernest, guide, 234, 236 Francois, guide, 161, 162, 238, 239 Sinai, Mt., visited, 338 Skagastélstind, Store: S. Face, 171 Ski-ing Accidents, 1927-8, 189 Ski-Runners, Letters in Defence of, from Unna, Hordern, and Smythe, 213 aqq. Skridutindar, the, 88 Skriatica: First Ascent, 179 Snow Craft and the use of Raquettes, 400 Snow Pass: First Crossing, 384 Snowdon: Accident on (1882), 183, | 84 §.T.D., New Hut of, 186 Soggemoen, —, guide, 171 Sonnblick, Ski-ing Accident on, 189 Sorata, see Illampu Sources, Mt. aux, Region, Proposed Increased Facilities in, 190 Speed, Human, Record of, 190-1 Spence, W. M.: death, 217 Spicié, Mte.: Ascent, 174 . N.W. Face: Ascent, 175 Spik, or Devil’s Ledges : First Ascent, 179 Spoleto, H.R.H. the Duke of, and the Italian Karakoram Expe- dition, 184, 399 Steuri, Emil, guide, 380, 381 Fritz, guide, 330 Stones and Ice, Falls of, 30, 36, 56, 63, 65, 164, 166, 167, 168, 321, 322, 334, 374, 378, 379, 387. 391, 397, 401 Susafeh, Ras, 339 Supersaxo, Alfred, guide, 396 Alois, guide, 319 Ambrose (Sohn), guide, 353 Ambrose (Vater), guide, 353. 356 Oskar, guide, 379, 395, 396 Ascent by 467 Surts-Hellir Caves, 90 Suter, Fritz, guide, 182, 401 Sweden, Bad weather in, 1928, 405 Swedish Tourist Club, Aid of, to Mountaineers, 405 Syndicat d Initiative of Marrakech, Huts of, 226 TAILLON, the: Ascent, 38 Tairraz, Auguste, 8 Tairraz, Family, guides, 162 Taugwalder, Gabriel, guide, 355 Peter, guide, 406 Fithrerbuch of, presented to A.C., 408 Theytaz, Basile, guide, 360 Hilaire, guide, 377 Louis, guide, 368, 369 Théophile, guide, 377 Thomson, Darby, guide, 195 Thorsmork, 87 Throne, Mt.: First Ascent, 196 Thumb Peak: First Ascent, 383 Thunderstorm, on the Petit Dru, 421 Toby, Mt.: First Traverse, 383 Tonquin Valley Camp, of A.C. of Canada, 196 Toubkal, Djebel: Ascents, First and other, 223, 228 Toubkal-Ouenkrim Massif, 224 Ascents in, 227 Clochetons of, 23] Tournier, Camille, guide, 422 Raymond, guide, 47 Traill’s Pass, 28, 33 Tres, Torre de: Ascent, 174 Tribe, W. N.: death, 177, 220, 366 Tribulaun, Pflerscher, the, New Route up, 185 Triglav Massif: First Ascent, 179 Travnik: First Ascent, 179 Tschingelspize : Second Ascent, 425 Ture, Christophe, guide, 310 Henri, guide, 187 Pierre, guide, 187 Turret, Mt., Attempted, 196 UnnamepD Canadian Peaks, Purcell Range: First Ascents, 383 VALPELLINE Ridge, New Routes in. 404 Vatnadal, the, 92 Vazzeda, Cima di: New Ascent, 169 Veleta. Pico de: Ascent, 41

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468 Verte, Aig.: Accident on, 419 Ascent by S.W. (Moine) Aréte, 391 Victoria, Queen, on Alpine Accidents, 183 Vuignette, Col de la, Accident on, 116 WappincTon, Mt.: Identified as Mt. Mystery, 198 Wainewright, J. H.: death, 151, 177, 219 Warren, Mt.: First Ascent, 383 Weber, J., guide, 197 Weisshorn: Ascent by N. Aréte. with Descent by S.W. Aréte or Schalligrat, 392 Weisskugel, the, 298 Weissmies: Descent by N. Aréte, 395 Wengern Alp: First Crossing, 272 Wetterhorn, Accident on (1882), 184 Ascents by 8.W. Aréte, 380 397. Index. Wherry, G. E.: death, 398, 410 Whirlpool Group, Canada, New Expe- ditions in, 382 White Mts., Crete, Climbs in, 246 3171. Wildspitze, the, 298 Willink, H. G., 14 Winter Ascents, 153, 187, 409, 418 ‘Wrath, The, of the Gods’ film, 186—7 YELD, G., 50 years a Member of A.C., 179 Za, Aig.dela: W. Face: Ascent, 161 Zdarsky Tent-sack, the, 60, 72, 73 Zillerthal Alps, 299 Zinal-Rothhorn: Ascent by S.E Aréte and E. Face, 378 Zuckerhiitl, the, 298 Printed in England at Thr BALLANTYNE PREKS SPOTTISWOODE. BALLANTYNF & Co. Lip. Colchester, London & Eton

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VoL. XL. MAY 1928. No. 236. ALPINE JOURNAL: A RECORD OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION. BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE OLUB. EDITED BY BE. L. STRUTT. Contents. PAGB I. ‘THH CLOSING OF THB ITALIAN ALPS’ “ak NI. DAUPHINE AND THE AIGUILLE MERIDIONALE D’ARVES. UNPUB- LISHED LETTBRS FROM THB LATE MISS GERTRUDE BELL. (Ilus.) 3 ItY. THE AIGUILLES D’ARVES. By Olaude Wilson. (ilustrated) ... 12 IV. KAILAS PARBAT AND TWO PASSES med THE aumeoN HIMALAYA. By R. O. Wilson. (illustrated) 38 Vv. THB GODFATHERS OF FORTUNATUS. By R. L. G. Irving. (illustrated) .. 37 VI. THE COL DE Le BERNY A: THE AIGUILLE DE LESCHAUX. By R. Opler Ward. (ilostrated) 45 wilt. THE FIRST ASCENT OF ‘MONT BLANO DIRECT FROM THE BRENVA GLACIER AND OTHBR CLIMBS IN 1937. By F.S. Smythe. (Illustrated) 58 VIN. KILIMANJARO IN 1927. By Mise Sheila Macdonald. (lustrated) 77 IX. SOMB JOURNEYS sro aie THE MOUNTAINS on carps By Athole Murray. (illustrated) 85 X. ‘MYSTERY MOUNTAIN.’ “By Ww. A. Don Munday. (Iitustrated) | ‘ee we «= 98 XI. NOTE ON MOUNT OLYMPUS. By W. T. Blmslie and 0. M. Sleeman ... . 101 XII. OLYMPUS: AN INTERNATIONAL BXPEDITION. By W. J. Billison. (ilns.) 104 XUI. OFF DAYS ON AN EMPIRE TOUR. By L. 0. M.8. Amery. (Illustrated) 108 XIV. VARIOUS NOTES: GRANDE OCASSE—GRANDE MOTTE TRAVERSH. THR N.B. FACE OF THE pyeneue: THE aaa OB wena ¥YIESOHER- HORN. (illustrated) sae . Ald XV. KNOTS FOR CLIMBERS. “By 0. BR. I. Wright ‘and J. 'B. Magowan. (illustrated) 130 XVI. SIMLER’S ‘VALLESIAB DESORIPTIO ET DB ALPIBUS COOMMENTARIUB,’ A PORTRAIT wEDeL OF CONRAD GESNER. By 7 ore Thorington. (ilustrated aes we §=14l XVI. THE ALPINE CLUB PHOTOGRAPHIO “BXHIBITION wae 146 XVI. IN MEMORIAM: sg teens J. H. Mths = ve mona. B. Lane. « Miag KATHERINE RICHARDSON. ALFRED SIMOND 160 XIX. NEW BXPEDITIONS ‘ise oe ais aT oo ‘sae pea oe .- 168 XX. VARIOUS BXPEDITIONS.. - sas bs sie aac sie .. 196 XXI. ALPINE NOTES AND CORRIGENDA . ak “8 a sae ive we =177 XXII. HIMALAYAN NOTES Aes ‘ae ses La ae bs ive .. 1093 XXII. NEW ZEALAND NOTES ..... is ate ae sia ae --» 196 XXIV. CANADIAN AND AMBRICAN NOTES... a4 ag sag oe ae .. 196 XXV. REVIEWS ... be wine wae ae nae nee «- 200 xXxXvVI. CORRESPONDENCE » Se its be ve ‘5 ‘ae ... 318 XXVI. PROCEBDINGS OF THE ALPINE OLUB oe ie oe Sad dee .. 217 TO BE CONTINUED, Notices for the next Number, which will appear in November, should be sent to The Editor, Alpine Club, 93 Savile Row, W.1, as early as possible, and not not later than September 30, 1928. LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO. LTD. 89 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON NEW YORK, TORONTO, BOMBAY, CALCUTTA, AND MADRAS; and sold by EDWARD STANFORD, Lrp., 12, 18 and 14Long Acre, London, W.6O. 2 Price Ten Shillings and Sixpence Net.] [All rights reserved.

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—_— es ee : a ; oa > . ‘ UNION DE BANQUES SUISSES | Union Bank of Switzerland. Schweizerische Bankgeselischaft ST.GALL - ZURICH - WINTERTHUR Aarau, Baden, Basle, Berne, La Chaux- de-Fonds, Flawil, Fleurier, Frauenfeld, Geneva, Laufenburg, Lausanne, Lich- tensteig, Liestal, Locarno, Lugano, Montreux, Rapperswil, Rorschach, Riiti, Vevey, Wil, Wohlen. Personal Service and Information at the disposal of ‘Tourists Capital, fully paid, Frs. 70,000, 100 Reserves :: :: Frs. 18,000 000 * Insist upon your Bankers giving a you LETTER OF CREDIT 7 and Personal Introduction to the a UNION DE BANQUES SUISSES ° os Every facility afforded to visitors to Switzerland wishing to combine their holiday trip with forming business connections. ~~ Cheques collected and banknotes exchanged — at favourable rates 7 Digitized » Google a

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THE KRONENHOF Pontresina. A Summer and Winter Residence of distinction for health and pleasure in the Alps. Universally known as the favourite rendezvous of British Sports-Folk in the Engadine. Apply to L. Gredig, Propr. LAUSANNE HOTEL EDEN. Every room with running hot and cold water or private Bathroom only from 5 frcs. Inclusive Terms from 13 fres. HOTEL DU GRAND COMBIN FIONNAY (Vallée de Bagnes), VALAIS, SUISSE. Ideal Summer Resort. Pine Woods. Centre for Excursions. Well recommended Hotel. Poste-Télephone No. 8. Arrangements for families. INTERLAKEN, SWITZERLAND Savoy-Hotel—Hotel National Two first-class Hotels with all Modern Comforts. Accommodations for 400 Persons. Apartments with Private Bath. MODERATE TERMS. Branch House: Wyder’s Grand Hotel, Mentone, South of France. MARSTERS ORDERS ACCEPTED.

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MALOJA PAL, ACE nr. St. Moritz (Engadine) ae | SPLENDID SKI-ING CENTRI RE Chic Summer Alpine | | Centre ; 18-hole golf course, s lawn tennis courts. MountainscAngaaal boating, bathing, trout fishing. Illustrated booklet free on application to the Manager, or 7 a . a. ALPINE SPORTS, LIMITED © 5 ENDSLEIGH GARDENS, London, W.C.1. (7,200 feet). 2 ris hours abiwal Fie = . % Furka-Oberalp Railway. — Excellent Centre for numerous Exe = a and Ascents. ee Meryelen See, Concordia, jonah Finsteraarhorn. Aletschhorn, ete. Easy access to the - Jungfrau Railway. = y ~~ Admirably aicnesett for ra ye English Church. Post, T elegrs ipa Telephone. PENSION FROM FRANCS 11, _ FAMILLE EMIL CATHREL Nee a - = “Sa Spottiswoode, Ballantyne & Co. Ltd., Printers, London, Colchester and | - Digitized by 9 Copa ; po = Ky er... ts . — S's

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VoL. XL. NOVEMBER 1928. | No. 237 ALPINE JOURNAL: A RECORD OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION. BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB. EDITED BY E. L. STRUTT. I. THE MOUNTAINS OF MOROCCO. By Jacques de Lépiney. (Illustrated) ... 321 II. AIGUILLES DES DRUS AND LAUTERAARHORN—UNPUBLISHED Hore FROM THE LATE MISS GERTRUDE BELL. canes Sets 234 iI. CRETE. By G. P. Baker. (Hlustrated) .. ie 243 Iv. A JOURNEY THROUGH THE OBERLAND AND “TO CHAMONIX IN 1787. THE MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL OF MRs. MARK BBAUFOY. eal 261, V. TWENTY YEARS AFTER. By T. G. Longstaff. (Illustrated)... sé ... 281 VI. THE NEW FRONTIERS IN THE ALPS. By Edgar Foa. (Ilustrated) .. 292 VI. Puna ee EXPERIENCES AND CONCLUSIONS. By E. H. ¥. ark | a VOI. THE EASTERN ARETE OF THE SIGNALKUPPR. ‘By Max . Strumia. “Ailus. 315 IX. A FLIGHT OVER THE PYRENEES. By W. M. Conway .. $25 X. THE DESCENT OF THE N. FACE OF THE EIGER. By Claude A. Moodonsld. (Itlustrated) $39 XI. THE S.E. FACE OF THE MOJ8TROVKA. By Mrs, “Copeland. (Illustrated) we «6831 XI. THE MOUNTAINS OF ISRAEL. By W. T. Elmslie. (Llustrated) sae .. 338 XT. KNOTS FOROLIMBERS(D. ByO.E.1. WrightandJ.E.Magowan. (Llustrated) 340 XIV. VARIOUS NOTES. LA HAUTE CIME DES DENTS DU MIDI. NOTES ON THE KE. FACE ROUTES OF THE DOM. THE THIOLY AND PILKINGTON ROUTES UP THE JUNGFRAU IN 1862. THE MONCH AS A POINT FOR SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS. THE PAULIN ANEROID. (Illustrated)... 361 XV. EXHIBITION OF PICTURES AT THE ALPINE CLUB ..., $62 XVI. JN MEMORIAM: F.C. BAINBRIDGE-BELL. W.N. TRIBE. a H. ‘NEAME. C. E. MONTAQUE. F. REGAUD ~ 365 XVI. NEW EXPEDITIONS baw edi Site ae say ea me eae ... 372 XVII. VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS... is sex cei ies ime Sice eae ... 386 XIX. ALPINE NOTES ne ba wea Sa es et oe Sia ar ... 398 XX. HIMALAYAN NOTES sind oP ea Sis wie ee ..- 410 XXI. OANADIAN AND AMERICAN NOTES .. fea sine — tas see .. 414 XXII. ACCIDENTS IN 1928 ses sae oaa ve is es as ie ... £16 XXII. REVIEWS ies ane ‘las dis sig aie ae .. «6426 XXIV. THE ALPINE CLUB ‘LIBRARY . wes ei ts eae Sus aay ... 485 XXV. CORRESPONDENCE = ; dss ane bee Sei Sie ... 4523 XXVI. PROCEEDINGS OF THE ALPINE CLUB see aes ae, Foe eae ... 456 XXVO. CORRIGENDA es a ae eae aa ais wed ... 456 TO BE CONTINUED, Notices for the next Number, which will appear in May, should be sent to The Eadttor, Alpine Club, 23 ‘Savile Row, W.1, as early as cs and not later than Mareh 81, 1929, LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO. LTD. 89 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON NEW YORK, TORONTO, BOMBAY, CALCUTTA, AND MADRAS; and sold by EDWARD STANFORD, Lrp., 12, 13 and 14 Long Acre, London, W.C. 2 Price Ten Shillings and Sixpence: Net.] (All rights reserved.

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UNION DE BANQUES SUISSES Union Bank of Switzerland. Schweizerische Bankgesellschaft ST.GALL - ZURICH + WINTERTHUR Aarau, Baden, Basle, Berne, La Chaux- de-Fonds, Flawil, Fleurier, Frauenfeld, Geneva, Laufenburg, Lausanne, Lich- tensteig, Liestal, Locarno, Lugano, Montreux, Rapperswil, Rorschach, Riti, Vevey, Wil, Woblen. Personal Service and Information at the disposal of Tourists Capital, fully paid, Frs. 80,000,000 Reserves :: :: Frs. 21,000,000 Insist upon your Bankers giving you LETTER OF CREDIT and Personal Introduction to the UNION DE BANQUES SUISSES Every facility afforded to visitors to Switzerland wishing to combine their holiday trip with forming business connections. Cheques collected and banknotes exchanged at favourable rates

Page 647

Final Volume of Mr. Mumm’s Great Work THE ALPINE CLUB REGISTER, 1877-1890 By the late A. L. MUMM DEMY 8VYO «« VIII -+ 352 PAGES wor 21S. NET The text of this third volume of The Alpine Club Register, completing a work which had been a labour of love with him for many years, was finished by Mr. Mumm just before he started for the Far Eastern tour from which he never returned. The book has been prepared for the press by Mr. Sydney Spencer, and forms, like the other volumes, a work of intense interest to all Alpinists, and a lasting memorial to its author. EDWARD ARNOLD & CO. 41 & 43 MADDOX STREET, wW.1 THE ART OF SKI-ING by Joseph Dahinden (of the Institute of Skt-ing at St. Moritz) Mr. Dahinden has a high reputation as an instructor of ski-ing. His book is certainly the most authoritative and practical work of its kind yet published in English. To those who already participate in this form of sport, as well as to those who con- template doing so, the book will be an invaluable asset. The illustrations and diagrams are a remarkable feature and are so designed as to facilitate instruction. The book has been eames produced in a portable format for the pocket or With SE Be ayeh bape and Diagrams. Crown 8v0 size (74X 5), th, gilt, special limp binding, price 10s. 6d. net. From all Booksellers Faber & Gwyer 24 RUSSELL SQUARE : LONDON: W.C.: PROSPECTUS POST FREE

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A | is TARGE | Pure Wool . H - Gives Warmth like Sunshine | | and makes Winter Sports still more of a joy. Jaeger Underwear is the foundation. If the outerwear is also Jaeger you will be ready for anything. So please call and see our special ranges for Winter Sports Wear. Ask for a Jaeger list. 352/354 Oxford Street, London, W.1 16 Old Bond Street, London, W.1 There are Agents in every Town. Adelboden Bernese Oberland Summer and Winter Resort. HOTEL ADLER AND KURSAAL Homely Family Hotel with large Ballroom, American Bar. Sport and Amusements specially well managed. Pension terms: Winter from frs. 15 : Summer from frs, 12 H. JOSSI, Propr. oe BRANCH HOUSE in Summer GRAND HOTEL PALACE AXENFELS, above Brunnen, Lake of Lucerne, with beautiful, most sporting 9 Holes Golf Course. Terms from frs. 13.

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY BERKELEY Return to desk from which borrowed. This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 27Mar’SOA F Wirillia 2 , a fi R w* od 24Mays 7M apy it A954 14 LD 21-100m-—11,'49 (B7146s16) 476 gle O Digitized by Goo

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eJs Bas tec. vu a _- Lt" rh ¢ a A) LD) 1" \ - \ df ) ee eed t= & 5 a /\ fj a) ry Ts | | a ae THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Digitized by Google

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