Vogue 1927-10-15: Vol 69 Iss 8

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CPU Cfashtons « Winrar ea Ct i RG ee tay (TOREK 15-1997

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Natica BY CARL ERICKson Silks that enhance her individuality . . silks sleek and sophisticated as her Siamese cat. Of the mode — assuredly — but dominating tt as genius always dominates! Copyright 1927 ty Stehii Silks Corporation, 200 Madison Avenue, New York + Paris* London and Zurich

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october 15, IPaT a TIFFANY & GO, JEWELERS ANTIQUE ENGLISH SILVER MAIL INQUIRIES RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION FIFTH AVENUE & 3/ = STREET NEw YORK

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CARON CORP., 389 FIFTH AVE., NEW YORK en %s VOGUE Vogue is published on the Ist and 15th of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Boston Post Road, Greenwich, Conn. Executive and Publishing offices, Vol. No. 0, October 15, 1927 Greenwich, Conn, Entered as second class matter _at the Post Office at Greenwich, Conn., under the Act of March 3rd, 1879. Additional entry at Chicago, Ill. Editorial Whole No ” offices, Graybar Bldg., Lexington at 43rd, New York, N. Y. Subscriptions for the United States, Canada, Porto Rico and the Philippines, $6.00 a year in advance.

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October 15, 1927 ut <r Vie — mete

t ¢ O nostess applied for y 5 ‘Rey

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NOBODY CAN PO/IBLY FEEL FRIVOLOUS WITHOUT A LID/TICKe AND NO FRIVOLITY 7 ieee WL IT WY (CHIC... THE ANSWER YY OBVIOUS. UERLAIN THE RED DOT IDENTIFIES THE DAYTIME /HADE | if —— THE OTHER L/ A LIGHTER SHADE FOR EVENING WEAR PAR : CHAMPS bn ——————————— ZEN = SSS ELY/EE/S

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eS LEATHER COATS AND FUR LINED TWEEDS PLAY IMPORTANT PARTS IN THE WINTER MODE Our representatives hold fash- ion exhibits in most of the larger cities east of the Missis- effect, with a convertible collar. sippi. We shall be glad to sup- Sateen lined. Crimson, jade, ply you with the dates of showings in your town or Belgian blue, brown. Sizes 34 m « | to 42. 35.00 : : nearby. Write Dept. M.O. T. Model 800—The jaunty little Nada sports jacket is of cape- skin, double-breasted, in box-coat . _ 5 ——_ ———— —s — a v Model 801—For the college girl or young business woman, the full-length glove leather coat is both practical and smart. This one is belted,in chic fashion, and is kashmir lined. Crimson, jade, navy, black, brown. Sizes 14 to 20. 39.50 Model 802—For skating, sports and general country wear, this glove leather coat in the new three-quarter length that Paris is sponsor- ing. Roomy pockets keep the hands warm. Crimson, jade, Belgian blue, brown. Sizes 34to 40. 27.50 ) MNT) ‘ Model 803—Leather coats are a wise choice for the schoolgirl, and Best’s features this model for both girls and junior misses. Straight, short, and smart; in bright capeskin. Red, green and brown. Sizes 8 to 16-only 16.50 Model 804—No smart Winter wardrobe is complete without a fur lined coat! They are particularly practical for school and country wear. This one in good-looking brown or gray tweeds has a fluffy fur collar, and coney lining. Sizes 14 to 20. 59.50 Mail Orders Accounts Filled D e st & € 0. Solicited Fifth Avenue at 35th Street—N. Y. LONDON Palm Beach

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VOGuER for Women ransparent velvet the voque for Combined with crepe Roma Simple in line but elegant in For dinner and evening wear, the and enrichened with dainty concept is this brocaded trans- handsome effect of transparent vel- Alencon lace, transparent parent velvet frock poised vet is enhanced by cloth of silver velvet becomes quite apropos over a beige silk slip. In black, in this beautiful Blackshire model. * for formal afternoon wear. sapphire, brown or gold. In all smart evening shades. These and other beautiful Blackshire Modes in the Better Shops everywhere \ Au tumn‘Jashions ORtris The exquisite vogue of art- printed velvet for evening wear is here charmingly portrayed im pleasing combination with lustrous satin and cloth of silver. Entire contents copyrighted, 1927, by Max Greenburg & Co. Oct MOVING Onatonatonats> tte arrevcireaite cree Oe | (PRD) (Ae DOD DIOR DOP DIONA DARD) DCAD) D ODDO DG DODD DODD DYDD DVDR

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combination of rich fabric and ultra simplicity of line SECOND FLOOR

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ISABEY- PARIS Inc., 485 Fifth Avenue, New York.

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October Zo > 1927 -— Quaint wisps of twisted gold, deli cate designs in colored enamels, beau- tifully cut stones, which are now ex- tremely smart, are in this group. cA collection of interesting old pieces, personally selected by our representa- tive in France, England and Italy. In sets and separate pieces. eAn outstanding collection of INTERESTING OLD JEWELAY Odecess Osoeer Lord & laylor FIFTH AVENUE - NEW YORK

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10 VOGy; cA Frock ‘Proclaiming the Golflex Genius for Tailored Lines Supple silk ts the artists medium jor this delightful hwo piece Frock, exquisile in the soft roll of its lapels, the tiny shoulder tucks, and youthful peplumeffect. Phits are cleverly introduced into the skirt to gue a lovely freedom of: motion. You will be charmed with the new shades: the ‘ruby "red. which Bemard Sponsors in Paris, a particularly smart, vivid blue, the _ fashionable cocoa-tan, black, navy, and deep green. Wearable in any daytime gathering. Price $39.50 GOLFLEX Write Wilkin & Adler, Inc., 500 Seventh Ave., New York City, if you can’t find this Frock—labelled Golflex—at your favorite store. ENTIRE CONTENTS COPYRIGHTED. 1927, BY WILKIN @ ADLER. INC. Oct Hi Hi 7 Cor yo

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Ogre october 15, 1927 When you wanted a general-purpose colour in shoes— a colour that could go anywhere and with almost any- thino—you used to think of black... This winter you ll say, “Marron!” Marron is a gorgeous, rich, true brown. Brown that glows. Brown of an exquisite wood. Brown of the high-lights in Russian sable. Brown just born for shoes to complete the new browns you'll wear in clothes— if you know Paris. . . Marron will make a pleasant contrast with the greens, the blues—and of course it fits exactly those chic costumes of the moment where black and brown are combined ... What part of the smart rainbow does that leave out? ... Not much of anything, this, year. Marron is right for the street—restrained in its beauty PHILADELPHIA ROBERT H. FOERDERER, Inc. if v Selling Agents: LUCIUS BEEBE & SONS. Inc. Selling agencies in all parts of the world Here's what you look for the famous Lucky ' Horseshoe . . . your as- surance of chic, long wear and true economy... . which consists in getting what > you'll continue to. want. REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. MARRON —a colour in leather that shows affinity for tailored lines in shoe construction . . . Marron is right for the afternoon, too. It bas a suave richness that seems at home with velvets and silks in dresses . . . No wone der the great shoe designers have ordered it fcr those miracles of grace that they create for formal wear... In short—Marron bas chic wherever it goes—and it goes everywhere. If you're wise—it will go with you. Where do you find Marron? Only in shoes of Vict kid... And where do you find shoes of Vict kid? In shoe departments and shoe stores that are on their toes looking for the newest, the smartest in footwear ... And how do you know it's Marron when you think you've found it? Because the shoes of Vict kid in these clever shoe shops are stamped inside with the Lucky Horseshoe. f “ey 1]

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Na cancmbiel mtd cei i ne i itil ciel italics it Montana actin: nl ah iB lg With its ingenious tuck in the crown and the effective contrast of KNOX THE HATTER NEW YORK FIFTH AVENUE at 40th Street RooseEveELT HOTEL. ...(Madison at 45th) 161 BROADWAY....... ( Singer Building) Watporr-AstoriA... (34th at 5th Ave.) THE PARAMOUNT BLDG. (B’way at 44th) 711 FirrH AVENUE. ... (Near 55th Street) SAN FRANCISCO...... (51 Grant Avenue* a@ lustrous satin band and cable embroidery edge, this felt cloché by Knox commands respectful attention at the smartest of occasions. $20. NEW YORK ASHION, they say, is fickle. But in the consistency with which she ptt sents her smartest hats under the label of Knox, Fashion is fixed as the firmament 34 Bor

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1927 GUE October 15, T}WALK= OVI! iD “ VO “What will the fashion be in tailored 99 . . footwear?” This is a momentous ques- tion in every woman’s mind—on every woman’s tongue. The answer is—see this new Walko with youthful chic. Its every line 34 Boulevard des Italiens adds verve and distinction to the foot. It lends a touch of young sprightli- ness to the whole ensemble. Truly an advance model, this shoe offers to the woman with an inner sense of style jn § Model on your own foot. It is instinct | that elusive something called “new.” 510 FIFTH AVENUE NE W YORK city WOK WOO FOYT VIEN WIE EEESSSS WALKOTIE This new tie is smartly laced over a pointed tongue. It is developed in the illustration in Tan Calf with inlays of Calcutta Lizard Calf.It also comes in the many other combinations of brown that are so fashionable for autumn —as well as in the always smart and popular black. $10.50 Valko fie *Advance Fashions in Footwear,” our new booklet just published, may be had by addressing us at 510 Fifth Ave. These De Luxe styles may be ob- tained direct from our Fifth Ave. Shop, or at the Walk-Over shops through- out the country. 372 Oxford Street, W1 LONDON

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TRUWAUK WELTS| This mark on the sole identifies Truwauks as genuine Goodyear Welts. “TruwAuk---the beautiful walking shoe Akron, Ohio The Wagoner & Marsh Company Amarillo, Texas Regent’s Asbury Park, New Jersey I. Miller Company Atlanta, Georgia Byck Brothers Company Allentown, Pennsylvania The Heinz Company Baltimore, Maryland Zimmermann’s Beaumont, Texas Sutton Shoe Company Bluefield, West Virginia Bluefield Shoe Company Boise, Idaho Burnett Shoe Company Boston, Massachusetts C. F. Hovey Company Bridgeport, Connecticut The D. M. Read Company Brockton, Massachusetts Allen’s Brooklyn, New York Benjamin Shoe Shop Waukease Shoe Store I. Miller & Sons, Fulton & Bond Sts. Buffalo, New York I. Miller Store Canton, Ohio The Wagoner & Marsh Company Charleston, West Virginia May Shoe Company Charlotte, North Carolina Efird’s Department Store Chicago, Illimois I. Miller & Sons Cincinnati, Ohio The Smith-Kasson Company THESE SHOPS SELL TRUWAUKS Cleveland, Ohio Goetz—Mittelman Columbia, South Carolina Watson’s Shoe Company Dallas, Texas Neiman-Marcus Company Denver, Colorado A. T. Lewis & Son Derby, Connecticut Hubbell Brothers Des Moines, Iowa De Arcy’s Boot Shop Detroit, Michigan Russek’s Duluth, Minnesota Oreck’s Elkhart, Indiana Blough’s El Paso, Texas The White House Eureka, California Morgan’s Fashion Footwear Fresno, California Myer Siegel & Company Grand Rapids, Michigan Yager’s Bootery Greensboro, North Carolina Dan Hooker Greenville, South Carolina Pollock’s Greenwich, Connecticut The Favorite Shoe Store Havana, Cuba Gutierrez Garcia y Cia Healdsburg, California Schwab Brothers Honolulu, T. H. M. MclInerny, Ltd. Indianapolis, Indiana H. P. Wasson & Company Ithaca, New York Rothschild Brothers Jackson, Michigan The Andrews Boot Shop Johnstown, Pennsylvania Geo. K. Kline Company Kansas City, Missouri I. Miller Company Lake Charles, Louisiana Specialty Shoe Shop Lexington, Kentucky Wolf. Weil Company Lincoln, Nebraska Speier’s Lorain, Ohio E. McKees ee Pas ————-. Madis. Jensen’ Manit. Schuett ' McKee | The K: Mem: Phil M Minne E.E. Monrc The Pg Morga Fashioi Mt. V; A.J. F Napa, D.T.’ Rea en

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TET IN Pipe nT sa O ONE but the wise woman who wears them would ever suspect that these trim shoes have a comfort-secret. They hold your heel in a yielding pneu- matic cushion. They support your arch with an invisible “sliding shank” that adjusts itself as you step and gives your muscles a chance. And, like-the women who wear them, they conceal all this common sense under a layer of extreme material. smartness. They are modern in line, modish in If you want to know Comfort—with a capital C —get your first pair of Truwauks. TH WAVE RHRWEER AAA As you step Truwauk distributes the weight TRUWAUK DISTRIBUTES THE WEIGHT i TRUWAUK CUSHIONS THE WEIGHT TRUWAUK DIRECTS THE WEIGHT Dealers who want to keep apace with the demand for comfortable welt shoes that are beautiful, too, should communicate with us at once. E RICKARD SHOE Co MASS'‘A €CHUS E€ TTS aunt their style~-. hut hide their sense Madison, Wisconsin Jensen’s Boot Shop Manitowoc, Wisconsin Schuette Brothers Company McKeesport, Pennsylvania he Kay Company Memphis, T Phil M. Halle & Sen” Minneapolis, Minnesota » 4. Atkinson Company Monroe, Louisi The Page Ouisiana Morgantown W. Virgi , W. Virgini Fashionable Shoe ito Mt. Vernon Ne ° > w York J. Rice & Company Napa, Cali * DT * pea a Nashville, Tennessee D. Loveman, Berger & Teitlebaum B. Mo New York City, New York I. Miller & Sons, 450 Fifth Ave. Fox Fashionable Footwear THESE SHOPS SELL TRUWAUKS Passaic, New Jersey es hake City, Utah Portland, Maine t Spri N York Eastman Brothers & Bancroft Seeetees Deeties, Mae Cor J.J. Collins Boot Shop Max Deutsch Stern Brothers Norfolk, Virginia I. Miller Shop Oakland, California Peters Bros. Shoe Company Taft & Pennoyer Company Oklahoma City, Oklahoma B & M Store Omaha, Nebraska J. L. Brandeis & Sons Orlando, Florida Goldsmith’s Parkersburg, West Virginia Regent Shoe Company Philadelphia, Pennsylvania I. Milier Company Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Kaufman’s Pittsfield, Massachusetts England Brothers Providence, Rhode Island H. A. Hoskins Raleigh, North Carolina The French Bootery Richmond, Virginia J.B. Mosby Roanoke, Virginia Propst-Childress Shoe Company Rochester, New York I. Miller Stores San Francisco, California H. Leibes Company Frank Werner Company Seattle, Washington I. Miller Shop South Bend, Indiana I. Miller Shop Springfield, Massachusetts I. Miller Company St. Paul, Minnesota E. E. Atkinson & Company Syracuse, New York O’Malleys’ Tacoma, Washington Possemier’s Bootery Tonopah, Nevada Royal Shoe Store Tulsa, Oklahoma I. Miller Company Tyler, Texas Mayer & Schmidt University, Virginia Cassell’s Wheeling, W. Virginia George R. Taylor Willows, California Ellis J. Levy Company Whittier, California L. G. Van Bellen Wilkesbarre, Pennsylvania Pomeroy’s Woodland, California The Vogue Worcester, Massachusetts Gross Strauss Company

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VOGURE Oct: J | \{ NCE eel This heel in the modern manner is the new fashion of the fashionables exclusively in Kayser Chiffon hosiery. The sensation of the season! Intriguingly slenderizing in effect —unique in design —daring in conception—flattering to nature's lovely lines. It is the heel that smart women everywhere have adopted. Fashioned in Kayser Chiffon hose, of pure thread silk in a most exquisite texture — delicate in appearance but amazingly durable. In all the new shades including the ultra coffee shade. RETAILS $9.50 You may pur- and at the Kayser chase Kayser Store, Fifth Ave. Silk Products at at 41st St., op- all the Better posite the Shops Library. © J. K. & Co. 1927 *Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.

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The intrepid spirit of La Salle and the coureurs de bois lives on in French fur creation to-day. From the early French explorers of North America springs the tradition of Parisian intimacy with rare pelts—a tradition manifest in the skill and beauty of Parisian fur-working— and maintained to the full by these two superb coats from a leading Parisian fourreur. Now presented exclusively, and for reproduction, in our Paris Frileux. PARIS FRILE new york PARIS JOHN WANAMAKER onpon paiapeLPHh

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iG UR jaeber 15, 1927 Paris possesses no equal to Coin de Paris, for luxury-Paris, unique, vast, must needs present itself in parts: Coin de Paris is that Paris concentrated into one maison de haute couture. Here an all-Parisian staff reproduces the latest creations of the grands couturiers. And to complete the composite picture, Coin de Paris includes accessories of the mode — and millinery in a setting that might have been lifted bodily from an atelier of Caroline Reboux. COIN DE PARIS

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Master coiffeurs of Paris—artists of temperament, taste, and originality, whose métier descends to them from the days of Marie Antoinette, and who regard each cliente as a portraitist regards his sitter —staff the Tribout Salons. The coiffure at their hands becomes a chef-d’ceuvre. Parisian soins du visage, Parisian manicure— and in the vitrines those exclusive French perfumes and produits de beautée found only chez Tribout. PURE preter te PN MT ERAT YETTA : oe Fs See an = EMOTE % ¥ AER FATEH we NEw york Paris JOHN WANAMAKER tonpon paapepala

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That delectable institution of Paris, the little exclusive shop, materializes as Tribout in the John Wanamaker Stores. Here is a complete Paris shopping ity, trip epitomized. In the Rue des rom e D e cho Pyramides, behind Jeanne sist d’Are, is Paris Tribout, whose 2 creations—lingerie, stockings, ul x we gloves and all the minutiae of elegance, as well as children’s apparel—are found in America only in the Tribout Salons “do which include—also and especially — French frocks for women, starting at $45. ribo ,

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VOGUE Y= V Paris finds us hard to please in our quest for Mimi and C’est Paris fashions. Wide usefulness, reproducibility at moderate prices —all this we insist upon— and silhouettes and details utterly typical of the Parisian latest and best. Such models become our Mimi and C’est Paris fashions—true missioners of Paris. This Mimi frock, for Miss 14. to 20, in crépe satin or silk crépe, is $39.50: the C’est Paris evening gown, for Madame, in crépe satin, is $75. 2 sou Oc

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NEw yorn paris JOHN WANAMARKER tonpon paiapeLpHia

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16th, 17th and.18th Century Antique : a fe é : urniture, eh eee AS OE De tiques. Also a Staff of % and submit schemes for in Ces Annonces VIRADIO ont éé exécuiées a Parts

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CHEVALIER DE LA NUIT Chevalier de la Nuit —“Knight of the Night”—a perfume made and loved in France—a perfume that suggests the sen- suous fragrance of the dark. An Arcadian garden of long ago—a leam of moonlight, silvering the armor of a valiant knight—a balcony—a parting kiss. The breath of forgotten romance — that’s Chevalier de la Nuit! Subtly, it suggests “the way to say Remember Me!” BOUQUET ANTIQUE “ DOUX JASMIN PARFUM MASKEE “CHYPRE DU NIL DARFUMS CIRO Made and Sealed in France; 20, Rue de La Paix, Paris Imported by Guy T. Gibson, Inc., 565 Fifth Ave., N.Y. a 7 “The way to say Remember Me!”

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The Regal Pedigree of a DISTINGUISHED Watch Ce MERSON speaking of a noted man, said that “‘he was put to- gether like a good watch.’ True! Pedigree counts, whether in great men, queenly women or in these beautiful watches. The Ollendorff is the composite creation of the best watchmaking skill of this generation. At Chaux de Fond isa distinguished organization of craftsmen who are pledged to make the name ‘‘Ollendorff’’ the criterion of beauty, accuracy and dependability. The makers of Ollendorff watches also have a distinguished pedigree. For sixty yearsthey havecommanded the praise and respect of the trade in America. Your jeweler, therefore, has pride in selling you what you IVY — Cloisonne enamel watch and chain, 15 jewel, $75 OLIVIA—14K platinum-trimmed, 2 diamonds, 4 sapphires, 15 jewel, $59 ORION—18K platinum-trimmed, 6 diamonds, 8 sapphires, 17 jewel, $150 ORMONDE—14K solid gold $50 INTAGLIO—14K gold filled, $40 will be proud to own. For when a man or woman buys an Ollendorff, they possess a pedigree of service behind it—and a lifetime of pleasure and usefulness in wearing it. Ollendorff watches are adjusted to heat, cold and different positions. The movements are booed in a va- riety of cases of superb design, plati- num-carved or jewel-encrusted; also in solid gold and gold-filled. The prices range from $28.50 to $3500.00. A pedigree of essentials—beauty, accuracy and dependability for whatever you wish to pay. Ask your jeweler. [ Ollendorff Co. Ine Pittsburgh 20 W. 47th St. 219 6th St. New York Watches Factory Chaux de Fond 1868 Fine Since llendorft Watches ORIOLE—14K solid gold, $40 ISABELLE—14K gold-filled, $35 TIME FORA LIFE TIME ww) OLDORF—14K solid gold, 15 jewel, $50 ISDORE—14K gold-illed, 15 jewel, $28.50 OLYMPIA—x14K sclid gold, 17 jewel $73 ISSOTA—14K gold4illed, 15 jewel OLEANDER—14K solid gold, $18 ITILDA—14K __ gold-filled, Octo Extren Miler dress 0 Albany, N. Altoona, Pe Y] Anderson, ] U) Asheville, J . S1 Athens, Ga Atlanta, Ge .R Augusta, 3 dustin, Tez Baltimore, Bangor, Me Beckley, W Bellingham Benton Ha Champaign KAU Charleston, *Chattanong LIGE Chester, Pa Cincinnati Cleveland, Columbus, F mee } Dallas, Ee I Davenport,

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$50 6.50 $75 $50

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‘DTS 2 Extreme left—Inspired by Miler Soeurs. An evening dress of heavy Georgette. dow N.Y, vs Be WALSH & SONS Altoona pe MEYER JONASSON & CO. LOUIE SHOPPE —_ N.C. AUSTIN VESEY CO. Athens, Ga MICHAEL BROS., INC. aia fe, RICH & BROS. CO. ADAMS, CO Austin, 1, H. WILLIAMS & CO. Baltimore, Md. HUTZLER BROS. CO. Bangor, Me. THE LADIES SPECIALTY SHOP Belts Ww, LER P Bellingham, R PECK Heavy flat crepe is used for the engaging model by Patou just above. The gown direct- ly above has the smartness of sub- tle simplicity. It is after Lelong— of Satin Supreme. e — MILER SOEURS - LELONG - MOLYNEUX GERMAINE LE COMTE ;: PATOU Deja’s smart selection for mid-autumn may be seen at any of the shops listed on this page. In all leading shades 339-50 For further information write to DEJA, INC., 550 SEVENTH AVENUE, NEW YORK Inspired by Miner Minn. UR M Fal SHERRY & WEBB vette E DAYTON CO. Fitchb a ile, v la. “GOODNOW-PEARSON CO. C.J. GAYFER & CO. Flint, Mich. ee ee Ala. A. NACHMAN Nashville, Tenn. RA HERBERT N. BUSH Fort Worth, Texas DEJA SHOPS GANS CO. a 4: Ky Nassau N. P. Bahama Islands FARMER & SON nities MADELINE DALE, LTD. Fresno, Ca OHN ws AN AMAKER New Fe ete 1 MYER SIEGEL & CO. Grand Ee ‘ids. Mich POLSHEIMER CO. New ERA ANELI New Haves Conn. LIN’SIMON & CO., INC. OKS & COMPANY, INC. am. 10, 4 Gi - Ne 7 ae Cc ona INC. posters: A- STEVENS & BRO. pee: a & CO. een h, Ce few Orleans, La a a MARTIN co. mu 4 Z D. H. "HOLMES CO. amie ew hochetie, J 1a, WB, LAND CO. mi Iencien Gay — cata HOWARD 'R. WARE, INC. ar a. ick t "THE WM. B. SCHLEISNER STORE I. MAGNIN & CO. WEN HALLIBURTON CO. ween Conn. Lexington, Omak, — G. FOX & CO., INC. DENTON-ROSS-TODD CO. 1 MeAVOY'S, INC. lando. a. Holyoke. NNSA Lima, ei NNA DOWLING, INC. DICKSON-IVES CO. E FLAMMER READY TO WEAR SHOP Pasadena, Calif. Honotat 4 Little pod rae a . 'McINERNY WINIFRED STEWART 1, SWITZER'S INC. k. Little Re Paterson ceed MENDEL TOWN'S COUNTRY QUACKENBUSH CO. Houston, Texas Los = cL Peye} Peoria, Ill. a HAR RISAHAHLO co. ps KLEIN'S t Lo see oeniz, Ariz. np DEARDORFF-SISLER CO. “KA aan STRAUS CO. BA INC. 0 Lis d. Lo = ur “i. Te §. AYRES & CO. wt RCHE OSEPH HORNE CO. Kalama:ce on Macon, Ga. Poconos City, Md. ri GILMORE BROS. “ UNION DRY GOODS CO. - T.F. HARGIS ‘noxville, Ten phi. omond ‘ali a LER'S «"§ GOLDSMITH SONS CO. rai NGE BELT EMPORIUM, INC. ‘ore 2. Mi i, * ‘uron, Mic “THE E SPORTS SHOP “"GRACE’S E WINKELMAN CO. ae... Me. Mitumubec, Wis. RINES BROS. CO.

At right—after Patou. Solid colors. Employing dull and glossy sides of crepe satin. Portiarei Ore. EIER & FRANK CO. pm... R. 1. THE SHEPARD STORES Quincy, 4 SARDESON HOVLAND CO. Raleigh, N.C. ‘i. }OYLAN PEARCE CO. eno, Nevada THE GREY SHOP Rochester, N.Y. FORMAN CO. St. P7. Mo. THOMAS W. GARLAND, INC. St. Paul, Minn. THE GOLDEN RULE Salem, 3 Mass. NGS Md. f. HARGIS Salt Lake City, Utah WALKER BROS. DRY GOODS CO. San aaa Texas EMIL BLUM CO. Santa Monica, cous. SWITZER’S, INC. Saranac Lake, N. Y. KATHERINE HOCTOR pm. — Wash. . MAGNIN & CO. pee. City S. MARTIN CO. South nee Ind. THE ELLSWORTH STORE Spa tO OBBS HENDERSON CO. Pw... Wash. CULBERTSON’S Stanyord Conn RY BROWN Stocker ELL br at TZGERALD Toledo. “Ohio THE FELL SHOP Toronto, Can. WINIFRED WARE Tulsa, Okla. me THE | HAIL STORE "3s. B. LASNER vicktHE STYLE SHOP we °MRTZGER-WRIGHT CO. Washingt D.C. WOODWARD & LOTHROP Watertown, N. Y. ee ““THE TOGGERY Whe = ‘ a AND THOMAS White Plains, N.Y. wnt MARION SHOP Ba: “SROWLER DICK AND WALKER ouan ton, Del. - HAR RY BRAUNSTEIN, INC. ‘orces' Me RICHARD HEALY CO. York, Pa. THE BON TON Yonk: N.Y. THE FASHION SHOP & E WALKER SMITH Letlin Meerron’s APPAREL SHOP T. A. CHAPMAN CO.

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N old shoe for luck, they say, but the minimum allowance for a modern honeymoon is five new pairs to complement the October bride’s trousseau. Carefully chosen from as versatile a col- lection as Munroe Individual Registered Shoes offer this season, each pair will do effective double duty with two quite indi- vidual costumes. To wear with either the black chiffon, or the little geranium crépe frock, the bride chooses KATRINA black velvet high- heeled ties with fish-net lace inserts at the sides. Smart DELORES Sabots of bottle green kid with delicate gold stripping, look as if they were especially designed for the green and gold lamé frock, but they are equally effective worn with her moss green wool dress and its narrow gold belt. No shoe could look more at home with both the two-tone beige and brown zephyr wool ensemble, and the beige plaited crépe frock than NADINE asymmetric one-strap pump of warm honey kid with its swirl of goldstone lustre. Just made to go with either the figured vel- vet or the little floweret print 1s DUCH- ESS high-cut patent leather pump with its collar of cut-steel beads. Finally, her gray tweed suit, and the light and dark blue tricot each claims as its own SUNYA gun-metal patent oxfords with the side cut-out. Footwear individuality is, after all, a sim- ple matter — just locate the nearest agent for Munroe Individual Registered Shoes. Moderately priced from $7 to $10 unrve Individual VERY pair of MUNROE Individual E shoes is registered before leaving the factory under its own number. That number in the lining seals our pledge that they conform in every particular with Munroe- process specifications: heels expertly hand- moulded and hand-fitted to the human heel, soles invisibly strengthened to preserve the original graceful lines for the lifetime of the shoes. Not one last for every foot, but individual lasts to fit individual feet. Look for the Registration Numbers. “Munroe Registered Shoes for Proper Body Balance” THE Munroe SHOE Company, INC. 139 Lincoln Street, Boston, Massachusetts Factory at Auburn, Maine THis MARK on the soles identifies shoes made by the Improved McKay process NED RM I ee a « 1 Ee ae "

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OGURE october 15, 1927 al | | ey , ow, Lf ws 4 Ni \ nd- f Ney Y the Ny the - but ook iC. etts America’s foremost fur house abundantly ful- fills expectations with furs intensely feminine, original and charming, at prices that sur- prise you with their utter reasonableness e amous For Fine Fursg : A 2) he = ~~ FIFTH AVENUE At 364 Street i NEW YORK

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VOGU; sill pei sniiaginsnnetbansnennese to een SPP a a RN ON MODEL 101 A delightful example of youth ina coat—this slightly fared front Debley for fall with its striking Paquin shawl collar of luxurious wolf fur and matching cuffs. You may have it in all the smart autumn colors + + for the MISS and JUNIOR MISS N nad youth again is served. For so many years the deb the sub=deb, and more mature women of small. stature / have had to choose coats designed and made for larger figures . And now, Debley answers the call of youth for a coat particularly and entirely its own. ’ NHE liquid line of Paquin, the lovely colour harmonies of Jane Regny, the sharp and striking accents of W orth— every noteworthy feature of the great French couturiers has been studied and translated by Debley for the smaller American figures. ’ NHE three models shown on these pases are but the forerunners of a long and distinguished line of Debley creations. In vel= vets, in velours, in tweeds .. . . glorious with soft furs... . smart and modern in their supremely skillful cut... . jaunty and grace= ful with the inimitable verve of youth itself... . Debley brings the young miss, and small women, to the forefront of the smartly clad. Q~ the opposite pase are listed the stores selling the new Debley coats— moderately priced. Perhaps your city is still without a representative. If so, write to us and we will give you full in= formation about Debley coats and where you may purchase them. DEBLEY - 498 SEVENTH AVENUE - NEW YORK i 0¢ ‘ay

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ata ad > Ba a a BR Ga heres ee SIR eee eet ODEL 102 A most attractive coat lor the slim figure—and a very flattering one on the not=so-slim— is this model made of silky Kashmir Suede, so smart this fall. Natural skunk is used for culls and “collar a la Paquin”. In all popular colors rs ° . ° MODEL 103 Jane Regny inspired this engaging model which Debley has fashioned in Kashmir Suede. The bias inserts of self material give a distinctive touch. Brown fox is used for collar and cutls—the colors are many and smart ry . rs + . . Select Stores Sellin 3 ce fe ee COATS New York City, N. Y. RANKLIN SIMON & CO. Om ill. AS. A. STEVENS & BROS. Per Ohio THE = Saag co. Alban: M {tL FELDER’ Ss i S.C. G. W. GATES PR Ga. CHAMBERLIN-JOHNSON-DUBOSE CoO. Baltimore, Md. HUTZLER BROS. CO. Beaumont, Texas ROSENTHAL DRY GOODS CoO. 7. Mont. THE cohen ig SHOP Binghamton, N DOYLE ‘KNOWER co. Birmingham, A THE Louis: SAKS STORE ~- eae Pa. gi METZLER CO. pug, N. HE WM: HENGERER CoO. degen N.C. J. B. IVEY & CO. (Cincinnati, Ohio NORDELLS a age Ohio BS MAY CO. Columbus, Ohio THE DUNN, TAFT CoO. Dallas, Texas NEIMAN-MARCUS CO. Denver, Colo. THE MAY CO. Detroit, Mich. THE J. L. HUDSON CO. Elizabeth, N.J. LEVY BROS. Ft. Worth, Texas W. C. STRIPLING CO. Houston, Texas HARRIS HAHLO CO. Jacksonville, Fla. COHEN LROS. Johnstown, Pa. SCHWARTZ BROS. — Neb. BEN SIMONS SONS Los sre, Calif. NE YORK CLOAK & SUIT HOUSE saa Tenn. LEVY BROS. Minneapolis, Minn. L. S. DONALDSON CO. Nashville, Tenn. LEBECK BROS. Oklahoma a Okla. KERR DRY GOODS CO. Omaha, Neb. remnee seria Parkersburg, DILS BROS. = co., INC. Philadelphia, Pa. THE BLUM STORE Phoenir, Ariz. KORRICK’S DRY GOODS CO. Pittsburgh, Pa. KAUFMANN & BAER CO. pa _—— J. E. Mg co. Poh ce FR. ANGES WATERMAN SPECIALTY SHOP Reading, Pa. DAVID A. HARRIS, INC. Sacramento, Calif. BON MARCHE Saginaw, Mich, SEITNER, BROS. San Antonio, Texas THE WOLF & MARX CO. San Francisco, Calif. LIVINGSTON BROS., INC. Seattle, Wash. LIVINGSTON BROS., INC. Shreveport, La. FASHIONS St. Louis, Mo. FAMOUS & BARR CO. Syracuse, N. Y. FLAH & CO. Tacoma, Wash. LOU JOHNSON Tampa, Fla. MAAS BROS. Terre nom, Ind EMAN DRY GOODS Co. Tulsa, men HALLIBURTON ABBOTT CO. ss Pa. RIGHT-METZLER CO. winal ! SF DOYLE KNOWER CO. ven, DC. W. B. MOSES & SONS Ww bare Pa. ISAAC LONG Worcester, Mass. ULIANS

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22 Decidedly, the trend of the shoe Mode is toward simplicity! And so her trim little patent leather pump with its clever tailored bow, echoes the Mode. Appropriate for almost any town costume you own. . « «© «+ so NDER the cowl of a speeding roadster — poised beneath the bridge table — tapping a breathless dance step. Swift young feet—smart young people—Dorothy Dodd shoes! For Dorothy Dodd takes the newest style notes and models them into shoes of fashionable slimness. Shoes that are simple and demure—shoes that are tai- lored and proud of it— but always, shoes that flatter the foot with slender lines. Dorothy Dodd designs are as au- thentic in fashion as a gown by Drecoll or Patou. They are flawlessly cut and fit with a nicety that spells supple comfort for the restless toes of youth. And for feet, too, that do young things.

Now that black guwns lead the formal Mode, the black satin slipper is more than ever indispensable. A combination of plain satin and a satin brocade, slender lines, and slim spike heels form the 36. Oi thisaodel. «. 2 » 0 0 2

$6.50 LE ATHER COMBINATION fs SN QU obey Fashuon’s dutum the Mender Gffect un these new Dorothy Dodd. models for udumn

PAT. Ore TGP CORP. ocoeenne

JAMATCA PLAIN, BOSTON, MASS,

states ae 34 Certainly two-leather combinations are this season’s very own! This smart walking shoe in tan calf trims itself effectively with crackle calf in a lighter shade. With jaunty brown tweeds it is exceedingly smart and proper. . ie <p SO

Pp Mp, You will be delighted to find that for all their grace and smartness, Dorothy Dodd shoes are far from being expet- sive. Quite the contrary—their prices start at $6.50 and go not a penny be- yond $12. To look at them you would expect to pay half again as much—and gladly. At the store that sells Dorothy Dodé shoes in your city you will find the new- [ est models for fall wear. Models that will complete your new costumes pet- fectly—that will do you honor upon every occasion — and notwithstanding, will ask very, very little of your sea-

son’s clothes allowance!

Obedient to Fashton’s demand for slim — . black satin pump fashions itself slenderly on ti ing Louis heels, and achieves a novel effect by ow i ts ats vamp in gun metal patent leather. The J oll ree ae

Oct

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at for rothy xpel- prices ry be- F vould —and Dodd F new- & that "per upon ding, Sea- , this ainty ning ble is 9,00 oft, hight, Saisie andsorne and Most Exactingly Tailored. e Fabric and the Styles Are Totally Exclusi ive with wansd own..Write f for Narme of Nearest Dealer. Th J ti : vl GOL ' feats PARIS baer Serge outa rand Created sanity by e House Of Swansdown 247 West he i NewYork Canadian Office: 3/0 Shadina ‘ve. Toronto. 23

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F you're one of those Easterners whose idea of going West is a trip to Albany —then you probably think the women of Oklahoma City wear sombreros and breeches. But, it wouldn’t be surprising if that smart=looking woman who sat at the next table to you at the Plaza in New York came from Oklahoma City! For this section is noted not only for good=looking—but for smartly dressed women. One reason this is so is because they flock for miles—these clever women—to shop at the Kerr Dry Goods Co. This remarkable store is the mecca for the discerning South Western women. They travel extensively —they know what’s what—and they know that for slovesilk under= V ’ [* oe ° = | E . | . TI oa | I 7 wear, V anitysi (it’s striped) is the outstanding, smart thing to wear. 1at is why the Kerr Dry Goods Co. has sold it for years—as has some smart shop in your own location. Vanity Fair Silk Mills, 200 Madison Ave., New York City— Mills, Reading, Pa. . . ~ ° . . 7 2 3 . . . . Vanitysilk (it S striped) is Vanity Fair's own creation—a crepe=y, sinuous Weave, sheathing the . . * Pe , . 4 ¥ * body in revealing contour, destroy ing not one of nature’s own Lines. You may have your favorite 9 * . . 3 4 , Fa 4 s * . 7 , type of garment in Vanitysilk—for example, Vest No. O22, Knicker No. £601, Vanitysuit No. 46013. Vanity Fair SILK UNDERWEAR VOGur Oct Not a Filth Avenue Shopping Scene r) lt 1S Okbhoma City! KERR DRY GOODS COMPANY Their handsome building in Okla- homa City is as impressive inside as out. In fact, travelers claim it is quite in a class by itself—not only in ts appointments but in its merchandise.

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With the brown woolens that Paris ts using 60 lavishly alligator will be the last word. The trimly tai- lored lines of this model in alligator calf are smart indeed. $8.50. This patent leather walking shoe, wilh black kid saddle conceals be- bind an air of trim emartness a | derious purpose—lo gwe dupporl lo . arch and ease to the foot. $10. This trap pump in patent leather ws tn agreement with the season’s trend loward simplicity. With the in- Sormal dlreet and afternoon Jresd tL is g000-looking indeed. $6.50. A Wardrobe of Lovely QUEEN QUALITY Shoes Diemexious with the median andl gentle to the purse. HE pendulum of the mode has swung to~ ward a variety of shoes, embracing the one perfect shoe for every costume. So the woman who goes about finds that she can scarcely do with less than a half dozen of the new shoes. And yet there is no blinking the fact that shoe prices have seemed to mount as their vari- eties have increased. Into this situation steps the Queen Quality shoe. Its new patterns for Fall are authoritative in style. Yet their price — low in comparison — will give youa shoe impeccably styled and most care~ fully fabricated. For the cost of a single frock you may have the six pairs of shoes shown you upon this page and your choice of dozens of other styles equally charming. To be the possessor of a shoe wardrobe of such unquestioned taste and very practical, you need only turn your steps toward the store in your city which sells Queen Quality shoes. THOMAS G. PLANT CORPORATION, BOSTON -_) Lines that are modishly slender Astinguish this afternoon pump in patent colt, The cut-out beaded shield has the advantage of lying snugly againot the inotep. $8.50. icin The vogue for two-leather combi- nalions is gracefully expressed in this Hispano Tie, which uses effec- lively black patent leather and suede. The cul-out saddle is new. $12. The broad vingle strap with trim of kingenake and patent, marks lhis kid pump aod trresiotibly of- lhe-moment{ Its slender swing 1 completed by slim optke heels. $10.

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aS LATHAM i wk Vew Castle Andorra Pe Glacé Kid — brown & lizard insert—hidden gore i e aten tem ‘og New Case Serge Blue Glacé Kid— genuine gray lizard saddle = silver kid piping. * 4am | These Shoes CASTLE GLACE fhe prineipal i tee New Castle Strotier Tan Glacé Kid Jentt ine lizard saddle and heel —— gold kid piping. é INSPIRATIONS IN NEWCASTLE GLACE KID Sponge cated Hig iaioont Be a a whe

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4 is OGUR October 1), 1927

IC oes

\\ x Y No. 2—Fashioned in Crepe Back Satin. ' Colors: Black, Mar- ' i hi von Glace, Laurel Oak. ’ \ j t | Sizes 14 lo 42. ’ \ No. 3—Styled in 7 Canton Crepe. Colors: Black, Navy, Marron Glace, Malaga Red, Canton Blue. Sizes 14 to 4o.

No. 6—Fashioned in Crepe Back Satin. Colors: Black, Mar- \ ron Glace, Laurel Oak. \ Sises 16 to 44. 4

ie j

| } : y ¥ No. 7—In Crepe Back Sat- in Colors: Black, Laurel Oak, Marron Glace. Sizes 16to 44. saliaenieeies

No. 5—Developed in Georgette. Colors: Marron Glace, Navy, Black, Malaga Red, Canton Blue. Sizes 141lo 42

! \ No. 4— Made of Crepe & Back Satin. Colors: \ v Black, Marron Glace, NL Laurel Oak. Sises

I4 lo 42.

At GHESE Fine SHops Ar Guese Fine SHops co NEW YORK CITY O Portland, Ore., Chas. F. Berg dcedon & C Poughkeepsie, 'N. Y., Wallace Co. Avedon & Co. Providence, R. I., The Outlet Co. CHICAGO, ILI Quincey, Ill., Kespohl-Mohrenstecher Co. ea (Present Raleigh, N. C., Boylan Pearce Co. Davis Co. Rapid City, S.’D., Kepp-Baertsch Co. Reno, Nev., Simson’s Aitany, NV. Flah & Co NEW LEAVES FROM THE "Pauls Minny, The Golden Rule foc. ] Altoona, Pa., Meyer Jonasson Co. or Aresegs! ; Ambridge, Pa., Pearl Fashion Sho y Salinas, Cal., Tynans Quality Shop Americus, Ga., Pinkston Co. a FA L L B O O K O F FA S H I O N Pay pe ~~ Na inc Ashtabula, Ohio, Saul’s a ange oO, Tex, . - 4 0. c Athens, Ga., Michael's an Antonio, Texas, Emi um Co. San Francisco, Calif., Cosgrave C. & S. Co. Athens, Ohio, D. Zenner Co ~ “sete Atlanta, Ga., H. G. Lewis & Co. San Jose, Cal., Stull & Sonnikson Augusta, Ga., Goldberg's mAT the smartly dressed woman a | soagy Sage og House : » Lexas, ax Snaman 5 a, os , ? Sapulpa, Okla., Monnig Bros., Co. Balti r * . . e Bangor, Maine: Sastre Sree Shop will wear—is shown here in these Savannah, Ga Lady Jane Shop aton Rouge, La., Farrnbacher D. G. Co . ° < Fort Collin’ Cn Merc. Co. Kingston, N. Y., Up-To-Date Co. Philadelphia, Pa., Brooks, Inc. Fort Smith A . The Edmonds D. G. Co. Kingston, Pa., Edwards & Co. Inc. Pine Bluff, Ark., The Froug Co. PARIMODE DRESSES Fort Worth, 7 -» Boston Store D. G. Co. Lorain, Ohio, Saul’s Pittsburgh, Pa., Kaufmann’s Dept. Store Frankfort K cane Monnig D. G. Ca. Los Angeles, Calif., May Co. Petoskey, Mich., S. Rosenthal & Sons » Ky., W. S. Farmer & Son Louisville, Ky., H. P. Selman Co. Pomeroy, Ohio, Red Anchor Dept. Store Co. 230 West 38th Street - «+ New York

— sae = <3 . name - . . ee BRR ee ten Se Bike

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A SLIPPER THAT REFLECTS JAE LI] N NX THE HIGHLIGHT MODE FROM EVERY POINT OF VIEW--WITH AN INGENIOUS INTER- LINKING OF SLENDER STRAPS. ... A NEWT. MILLER CREATION FOR AFTERNOON AND EVENING WEAR THAT REVEALS, FROM EVERY ASPECT, A ‘MILLER RARER GRACE--A MORE EXQUISITE BEAUTY! I. MILLER (Custom Shoe Salon FIFTH AVENUE at 46th STREET SHOPS AND AGENCIES IN PRINCIPAL CITIES THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES

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VOGUz BWA ee oh ee october 1, Veils , is ch Newest S hagmoor” “Cop Creliin LPRESENTING, through the most fashionable Shops throughout the country, the latest Fall and Winter collections of the cele- @ a) 2 & brated ‘‘Shagmoor’’ Top Coats ... Tailored, in the best English manner, of a specially-constructed pure-wool 4 fabric, which is virtually wrinkle-proof, dust-proof and & moisture-proof . . . Yet, their chief allure lies in their 4% inimitable distinction of line and cut—and in \ the fact that one is not penalized for this % distinction in the price . . . Uncom- G %. monly handsome Fashion Booklet on request. CO THE HOUSE OF SHAGMOOR (LINDER BROS. INC.), 498 SEVENTH AVENUE, NEW YORK CITY

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30 rin tzess PETITE?>COATS°:TRAVELURE Here’s smartness—inspired by Paris, adapted by Printz. There’s a suggestion of swagger in the silhouette—a touch that adds the wanted youthful swing. Richly fur trimmed —beautifully lined. You'll find Printzess garments in your city at a leading merchant’s — also Printzess ‘‘Petite’’ for the shorter woman — Printzess “Travelure” for travel and sports wear. Ask for them by name—or look for the Printzess label. The Printz-Biederman Company, Cleveland— New York. Price range: Dress Coats $39.50 to $150.00 “Travelure” $25.00 to $89.50 O48! EN Ck iON. Un Vena e 6.5 > S INES 1893 Octo unk

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Produc? unhampered walk! BEAUTY grows from the ground up 2 SN'T it true? Only the woman who is beautiful 2 motion — who sweeps along lithe, supple, perfectly poised . . . only she is really beautiful! And, after all, natural grace in walking is usually a matter of perfectly fitting shoes that allow foot-freedom. Unhampered feet. But what woman wants to en- case her pretty feet in ‘‘common sense’ shoes? Certainly not you. And you won’t have to—if you weat The Red Cross Shoe. You can search far without find- ing shoes more trimly smart than these. How perfectly they express today’s vogue in footwear— yet how restrained, how well-bred, HAT SECOND LOOK— invariably it is a tribute to a graceful carriage, a flowing, how thoroughly thoroughbred to the tiniest stitch! Now slip on a pair of Red Cross Shoes—walk in them. Instantly you sense the diflerence. No pinch- ing, no burning, no rubbing. In- stead, grateful support to the weary arch, a joyous snugness at the heel, unrestrained freedom for the flexing foot. Built over the famous exclusive ‘“‘Limit’’ lasts, and with the ex- clusive Arch-Tone arch-support, Red Cross Shoes fit the foot per- fectly in action as well as repose ... there are no other shoes like them in all the world. Pes Daughter, too, can : enjoy foot-freedom in The Red Cross Shoe Free book! Send for this inter- esting little book that tells how to ‘‘walk in beauty.’’ Address Dept. V-2. for Young Ladies. breaking in. REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. FITS THE FOOT IN ACTION OR REPOSE rT E narrow band across the sole of every Red Cross Shoe is your assurance that it was made over one of the famous exclusive ‘‘Limit’’ lasts. You can wear this shoe home—for it needs no of THE UNITED STATES SHOE COMPAN Y—Cincinnatzé

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NEW VERSIONS OF THE FALL MODE AS ORIGINATED BY PATOU AND REGNY cAT THE LEFT... No. 841 Designed by Jean Patou and reproduced in Jolly Crepe in Chanel Red, Patou Brown, Lelong Blue, Cathedral Blue, Black and Antelope. The dress is typically Parisian in effect, with a most unusual neck line, and a bodice that is in the spirit of the moderns. eAT THE RIGHT... No. 822 Jane Regny creates a frock of novel line, reproduced in Natural Cashmere Jersey, and in plain jerseys of all demanded colors... For the woman who prefers Silk it has been reproduced in Jolly Crepe under the number 831 in Chanel Blue, Patou Brown, Lelong Blue, Cathedral Blue and Antelope. COMMUNICATE WITH THE NATIONAL SHOPPING BUREAU, 151 WEST 40th STREET, N.Y. IF YOU ARE NOT CONVE: NIENTLY LOCATED TO ANY OF THE STORES LISTED AND WE WILL ADVISE YOU WHERE THEY MAY BE PURCHASED VOGu; & The stores listed, repre. sentative of the finest in fashion in your own locality, carry or wil] secure for you the mod. els illustrated, Ask for them by their model number, Albany, N.Y. COTRELL-LEONARD Atlanta, Ga. DAVISON-PAXON-STOKES Baltimore, Md. O’NEIL & CO., Inc. Boston, Mass. WM. FILENES SONS Co, Brooklyn, N.Y. ABRAHAM & STRAUS, Inc, Chicago, Iil. CHAS. A. STEVENS & BROS, Cleveland, Ohio THE HALLE BROS Co. Columbus, Ohio THE F. & R. LAZARUS & CO, Dallas, Texas NEIMAN-MARCUS Co, Dayton, Ohio THE RIKE-KUMLER Co. Denver, Colo. A. T. LEWIS & SON D.G.CO, Detroit, Mich. THE J. L. HUDSON CO. Duluth, Minn. DULUTH GLASS BLOCK STORE CO. Harrisburg, Pa. BOWMAN & CO. Hartford, Conn. G. FOX & CO., Inc. Indianapolis, Ind. L. S. AYRES & CO. Louisville, Ky. THE STEWART D.G. CO., Inc. Los Angeles, Cal. BULLOCKS Minneapolis, Minn. YOUNG-QUINLAN CO, Newark, N. J: L. BAMBERGER & CO. New Orleans, La. D. H. HOLMES CO., Ltd. New York, N.Y. JAMES McCREERY & CO. Omaha, Nebr. THOMAS KILPATRICK & CO. Philadelphia, Pa. JOHN WANAMAKER Pittsburgh, Pa. JOSEPH HORNE CO, Rochester, N.Y. B. FORMAN CO. St. Louis, Mo. SCRUGGS-VANDERVOORT- BARNEY DRY GOODS CO. Scranton, Pa. CONNOLLY & WALLACE co. Sioux City, Iowa T.S. MARTIN CO. Toledo, Ohio THE LA SALLE & KOCH CO. Washington, D. C. " WOODWARD & LOTHROP Wheeling, W.Va. STONE & THOMAS BY octol th fo CC es

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en October ro, 19: > Ine. ¢ CO. co. OP

Whether a lady wishes a coat of classic lines and beauty unadorned—or one that embodies the superb and insolent distinction of the mode’s latest whim for long collar, huge cuffs and flaring hem—she will find it among the individual creations presented by Revillon Freres ... To this house come the world’s best furs. the world’s cleverest cutters and the smart- est women of the three world-capitals— Paris, London and New York. Oh xi lon } <a FIFTH AVENUE aft 53rd.Street NEW YORK.

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WATSON SHOES Ine. tan mass

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OGUpM October 15, 1927 FOR. FEEI THAT GOLF AND WALK - - AND WALK, VEIVETIA SUEDE HOES for the links and cross country can shoe smart and unusual. It could go shopping be heavy and stiff, or soft and pliant. all day long without tiring the most sensitive They can be made of unyielding materials, or _ feet. they can be of the equally durable and so The third shoe is the slipper that goes on to much more comfortable Velvetta Suede. There _ tea, or to dancing at dinner. And now that danc- is something very sportsmanlike about this ing is no longer done bobbing politely on one’s suede golf shoe above. toes, but with every bit of the foot, and most A higher heel for town, but the same sort of the ankles, and some of the knees, it is the of sturdiness and comfort makes the second flexible feet in Velvetta Suede that bear up best. HUNT-RANKIN LEATHER CO., 106 BEACH STREET, BOSTON Makers of Fine Calf Leathers VELVETTA SUEDE WILL NOT SOIL YOUR DAINTIEST HOSIERY

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. SOR CEC RS . . = ~ << . os . : oo i

ye me in E f fe ie he ; a EY Pie if

May we introduce the MERO. WIN Vest and Knickers? The Vest has shaped waist-line with full spread at thighs. It is hand cut and perfectly proportioned, The straps are reinforced and specially placed toprevent slipping, The Knickers, too, are hand- tailored with full thigh measure. ments and @ stride specially de. signed to give comfort and per- fect drape.

ee ae

Your own finger-tips will instantly recognize the superior softness of MERO-WIN and the smooth, elastic weave that pledges exceptional durability and quality.

a | 3 4 1 * ‘4 ‘ ef e8 ee eC ero “(win 1S tempting to YOUY touch + « « Your own fingers will convince you of the excellence of Mero-Win—and its supremacy over all other rayon fabrics and cheap silks .. . Close your eye to its alluring color and fine hand-tailoring for the moment. Let your finger-tips sink deep into the garment. How sojt and pliable and fine it feels ; yet there's weight and body and strength lurking in every slender thread ... Now lightly draw your finger-tips across the fabric . . . Petal-smooth to your touch]. . . Like all the truly fine things of life—old friends —old lace—old linen—old silver—Mero~Win gains in loveliness after weeks of washing and months of service... Each Mero-Win garment is individually, perfectly sized—hand tailored—true in fit. It comes in every wante shade that mates with style.

MERO-WIN --+-THE FINEST UNDERGARMENTS IN THE WORLD OF RAYON WINSHIP, BOIT & CO., WAKEFIELD. MASS.—Makers of Mérode Underwear for Women, Men, Children and Infants

e F | e | D&roWin

Oct

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Shoes in Alpina with a Jrock trimmed lo match present an effect of ex- treme chic. Without Albina, the smart wardrobe is incomplete The bizarre beauty and delicate markings of Alpina rep~ tile skins have made them much desired for objects of fashion. P articularly in smart footwear, matching bags, gloves and hats, has their vogue been pronounced, for these charming leathers are not only exquisitely deco- rative, but waterproof and unmatched in durability. It is not surprising, therefore, that the woman of true chic includes in her wardrobe many objects in Alpina.

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5 i ; q i : 32h VOGuUR GYhe Gossard Sine of Beauty ~~ MART IN EVERY prIAIL [ASHIONABLE WOMEN realize the ulti- mate importance of details. So they depend on Gossard foundationwear to bring them true smartness of silhouette. Not only superbly fashionable in design, but superior in the smart materials used in them, exquisite in the tailoring that com- pletes them, Gossard fashion foundations have become a figure requisite for smart women the whole world over. From the stylist who creates them, the Gossard-trained corsetiere who fits them, the deft and capable fingers that finish them, Gossard garments achieve an inimitable ability to smooth and mold the figure to the most beautiful natural lines. Go to your Gossard-trained corse- tiere. Ask her to show you the foundation illustrated here, Gossard Combination 6622, made of striped satin tricot, reinforced over the dia- phragm and through the hip-line with satin tricot. Front is of uplift design. $10. And also ask to see the other expres- sions of Gossard corsetry, Gossard Completes,Combinations,Clasp-arounds, Girdles, and Front-lacing Corsets. aS ST ee ee Ma it The H. W. Gossard Co., Chicago, San Francisco, New York, Atlanta, Dallas, Sydney, London, Toronto, Buenos Aires Sa TI the ail by fai da ily ple we col net

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=~ = wf SS aN Bi a ae “igs:

OE —— ww Jo BINT a 3'O fF wm 4 tt SA: 3B - ReE- 2-H -E are light, diaphanous metals of Ss og —s w S = 3 ~ Lee J 8 ae 5) § S 9 <= ~~) 3 o R y = ~~ 5 » S 8 c QD “~~ There REPRO p Ue CE D flowing hythmic, There is r. the softness of silk—the sheerness of voile—the liquid, easy-draping quality of satin—they fall graciously into the accepted slim silhouette. Woven by Cheney Brothers on French Looms, they have a Parisian air of smartness and a sophisticated distinction never before attained by American craftsmen. wear. Pliant, softly- fairy-like charm for dance frocks. Heav- ily embroidered, sup. ple metals for formal colored metals for the new “bridge” frock. ly

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Sot at SE A octodb OS. ed 2 = —_ Pe: a ee, if | Slender and glovelike, this new featherweight Lo-N-Hi Warmth joins with trim style in this light fleece lined § Zipper may be worn full height or folded down to form \ Zipper of Mottled Brown. No social engagement needs : to be marred by a cold, when the new Zippers give such a smart cuff, revealing the harmonized Rayon lining. Offered in Gray, Black, Beige. LN chic protection. Styled also in Mottled Gray and Sand. ERS OS EE RTS ORT Reps eee een * LOVE OF COLOR. TEMPTS EVERY WOMAN TO OWN DIFFERENT ZIPPERS FOR; DIFFERENT COSTUMES See the authentic color combina- tions of Zippers, shoes, hose, dresses and accessories—in the 16-page Goodrich Zipper Color Harmony Guide. Write for complimentary copy. Zipper Dept., Desk V. Goodrich ZIPPER. The Tweeds used in Zippers are originated exclusively for Good- rich. Note in this Zipper and others, how the gleaming vertical line ef the HOOKLESS FASTENER adds to the distinction. Ankles take on new ens ogee when clad in the rN oye top Lo-Zippers. Goodrich makes them just the right height to set This style is also seen in Gray. * wasn pe Ag ce ants i baer 4 LS ae ae ea ee off the shapely foot alluringly. LaF SS Tue B. F. Goopricu Rusper Company, Akron, 0. In Canada: Canavian Goopnricu Co., Kétchener, Ont. yA “# —— a mn : scsi os en : -~ ee ia > _— ™ sae rem } ae TRADE MARK REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. . Se aceasta : be — yp tame

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assureS a \ JITH tender little feet there can be no compro- mise. The shoes must fit perfectly —without crowd- ing or chafing. The correct width is as important as the length — and recognizing this, HetmHotz has fashioned footwear in an unusual range of widths. The narrowest little foot can be fitted with made-to-measure precision. Glove-like flexi- bility is achieved in Shoes by Hertmuotz, with fine leathers, especially processed. Styles are originated by Hetmuotz crafts- ~__ men and used exclusively in this fine — ~— footwear for babies and infants and The Hiker boys and girls — yet correct comfort is never sacrificed for freakish fads. A boy’s shoe, that is sturdy, comfort nee and good to ook at. pepe of finest Elk. sizes ud to in youth’s’’, = | for the Most Important feet in All the World An Unusual Range of Widths Shoes, for Children by perfect fit Snugly fitting heels, full fashioned uppers, and scientifically proportioned widths distinguish Shoes by Hetmuoiz. Being made with a very short vamp and unusually wide opening, the shoe permits easy entrance of the foot. Never will you find ridges in the inscle or lining of Shoes by Hetmuo1z. They are finished with that care which always distinguishes the genuine. Those little feet, dependent upon your judg- ment for their comfort and correct growth, will be happier in Shoes by Hetmuotz. In years to come, their healthy growth will prove your choice a wise one. Ask your shoe merchantfor Shoesby HELMHOLz. The Play-Girl Just the shoe for school or play, with good heavy sole, Tan Elk ub- pers and rubber heels. Children’s and misses’ sizes. Ask for No. 606 TLEEMHOLZ Should your regular shoe merchant be unable to supply you with Shoes by HELMHOLZ for babies, infants, chil- dren and misses, write to HELMHOLZ direct. HELMHOLZ SHOE MFG. COMPANY Milwaukee Wisconsin ess Uh, SW, GS

Page 54

34 PRECIEUX — A corn-colored glove silk gown, tailored severity relieved by picoted scalloping at neck, sleeves and hem; the V-line of the neck repeated, in inverted fashion, at hem. White ribbons form a sash and shoulder bow. Bi SOPHISTICATE — Nimbus blue is smart for a glove silk pajama which is bound in self color. Flesh- colored self fabric cording is used at waist and neckline for effective trimming. Drecoll tie-sash at waist. VOGUIE oct ANIME — Tomato color appliqué on melon glove silk makes a clever dance set; ultra modern cut is used on bandeau and short bloomer. The brassiere has tiny French straps; the bloomer buttons at the waist and is only part elastic at knee. ine. MLW DISIGNS HAVE CAUGHT THE PARIS FANCY | So $m Sending Them te Omerica OULD you like to wear lingerie created especially by me, bearing my authentic label — Drecoll, Paris? Now, through an alliance with a world- famous American maker, exact replicas of my Parisian designs in lingerie are available at your own shop. And be- cause these garments are tailored in America, prices are free from high import duty. Thus these exquisite French garments cost no more than you pay for ordinary kinds. See them today. They are all fashioned of exquisite glove silk, and cut after the principles which have made my gowns famous. Always have I Jo Be Offered You in Replica at a Very Roasonable (Price ¥ SuxitesLingerte and Hosiery labored toward one effect . . . to bring out the natural beauty of the figure and make it more alluring. My gowns have the enviable quality of “sophistication,” sought by smart women today. If gowns are to attain this end, what’s underneath must be fashioned An exquisite line of strictly tailored garments is include unique departures in these more conventional designs as we finest quality and surprisingly long wearing. M =a F A tho College © graduat ‘SE RS College Art, M 241-243 TH in the same manner. So to my linger § I apply the same principle of cutting § which adds that subtle, enchanting line F to my outer apparel. Charming accents i are caught and held . . . lovely lines art | emphasized, perfected. i The best known maker of exquisite glove silk underthings is Luxite. Luxite now tailors my original creations and 22 them within your reach. All garments are 0 pure glove silk alone. Exquisite workmat ship distinguishes each one. You'll be & lighted with the originality and charm © these ultra modern designs. Do see them. * * * * d, You will fii m1, All are df Post ( Making of Scho Registri SCHOC Course: Acader Branch Write —-- She Mrs, Fifty 1 For hi ment; } letics, Direct HO Ma IMAR) ~~ Fa _ : [2 Thor Gradu girls. SHIP)

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VOGu; October as, 1927 Me yer ed he ss ist lingerie cutting F ng line accents nes art F quisite Luxite places are of kman- ye de- im. of m1.

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VOGUE'S SCHOOL DIRECTORY

35

GIRLS’ SCHOOLS ©

BRIARCLIFF Mrs. Dow’s School for Girls M.A., Principal NEW YORK

Margaret Bell Merrill, BRIARCLIFF MANOR General Academic and College Preparatory Courses Post Graduate Department a Music and Art with New York a advantages 4 New Swimming Pool Music Department Art Department Jan Sickesz Chas.W. Hawthorne, N.A irector Director GARDNER SCHOOL 11 East 51st Street, New York City

A thorough school with delightful home life. College preparatory, academic, secretarial, post- graduate. Music. Outdoor sports. 71st year

SEMPLE SCH®L College Preparatory. Post Graduate. Languages, = Art, —_ and Dramatic Art. Outdoor Recreation. a) T. Darrington Semple, Principal m 241- os Central Park West, Box V, New York City THE FINCH SCHOOL Post GRADUATE CourRSES. Music, Arts, Home Making, English, Drama, Secretarial. Paris HoME of School emphasizes Travel, Arts, Languages. Address Registrar 61 East 77th Street, New York City SCOVILLE SCHGOL A Distinctive Fifth Avenue School. Facing Central Park and the Art Museum. Academic and Advanced — Intensive College Preparation. Address Rosa B. Chisman, 1006 Fifth Avenue, New York Gis Che Castle “\ Miss Mason's School

for Girls Box 731 Tarrytown-on-Hudson, New York RYM rr) UN SCHOOL FOR” AL Seuee FOR WOMEN Courses: Four Years College, Two Years Finishing, Academic, Secretarial, Domestic Science, ete. Branches: Fifth Ave., N. Y. City, and Paris. Write for catalogue B-1 to The Reverend Mother. Tarrytown-on- Hudson New Yor The KNOX School for Girls Mrs. Bussell Houghton, Box V, Cooperstown, N. Y. THE SCHOOL GLEN EDEN = W199 pty, minutes from Fifth Avenue, New York City. po re school girls or graduates, Superb equip- letles yA pone select patronage; social culture; ath- Direc studies. 18th year, For catalogue address ctor of Glen Eden Stamford, Conn. A Country Board- HOWE MAROT ing School for Girls College Preparation Marot Junior College ,,;2"° xe" 1 |MARY L. MAROT, Principal, Veen, ee,

VANITY FAIR TODAY=$THE MODERN UTILIZES THE DANCE FULLY ee or Eurythmic, ballet or ballroom ... all are forms of dancing, directly descended from man’s most compre- hensive means of expression. Faithful, sincere study in any of their branches brings an ample reward. Good health, mental and body poise, gracefulness and ease in every phase of daily life . . . these are but a few of the benefits gained from a well-chosen and rounded-out course of dancing. And how easy it is today, to select exactly the right school for the particular form of dancing that appeals to one. On these very pages will be found many excellent schools fitted and equipped by faculty and location to furnish competent instruction in modern dance expression. Write to several of the schools; mention that you are a reader of Vogue and consider at leisure the proffered courses, faculty and fees. Then, if there is still a doubt in your mind as to which of these will best fit your particular needs ... a line to Vogue will doubtless help you to decide. At all events, write. It costs nothing to ask and the advice rendered will be wholly unbiased and to your best interests. CONDE NAST EDUCATIONAL BUREAU VOGUE 1928 Graybar Building, Lexington at 43rd, New York City HOUSE & GARDEN

GIRLS’ SCHOOLS GIRLS’ SCHOOLS

Lasell Seminary, (4 HILt-creEsT location in beautiful New England setting—ten milesfrom Boston. Two-year courses for high school graduates. Strong Home Economics courses. Excellent opportunities in music, with concert work. College Pre- paratory, Secretarial, Art and Dramatic Ex- pression courses. All athletics, winter sports, horseback rid- ing, swimming. De- lightful home life. Separate school for younger girls. Catalogs. Guy M. Winslow, Ph.D., Prin. 126 Woodland Road

Auburndale, Mass. ]£ you find it difficult to make a choice after read- ing the school announcements on these pages, write the Condé Nast Educational Bureau. HOUSE IN THE PINES NORTON, MASS. A School for Girls, 30 miles from Boston. College preparatory and general courses. Outdoor activities. Horseback riding emphasized. MISS GERTRUDE E. CORNISH, Principal N nr4 LH FOR GIRLS N Regular preparatory course for Smith and other col- leges. One-year intensive course for high school grad- uates. Principals: DOROTHY M. BEMENT, SARAH B. WHITAKER, Box E, Northampton, Mass. A school for home efficiency. Two-year course for graduates of secondary schools. Higher cultural studies with emphasis on subjects pertaining to home management. Catalog. Miss Helen Temple

WYKEHAM RISE Washington, Connecticut R A Country School for Girls, _— oopens September twenty-ninth y Davies, LL.A., Head Mistress Norwalk, Conn > c . HILLSID For Girls r’ 5 miles from New York. College Prep- aration. General courses. Athletics. Margaret R. Brendlinger, A. B SSar) * Prins. vide Hunt Francis, A. B. (Smith) LOW AND Ae! , HEY W. FOR GI 29D Ghor aough uae Preparation. General and Post

Taduate co) Parate cottages fi si aor t yout. Catelaaee om " Seqwer. INT STAMFORD, CONN.

Cooke, Dana Hall, Wellesley, Mass. FOR MOUNT IDA SCHOOL &¥kis 6 MILES FROM BOSTON. Accredited Junior College Course. Also Accredited College Prepara- tory; and Finishing Courses; Vocational Courses. ome Management. Art, Dramatics cretarial and Music. Riding, ee Golf, all Athletics, TALOG address 263 SUMMIT STREET, NEWTON

THE WEYLISTER A resident and day school for young women. 9 miles from New Haven. 1% hours from New York. One-year, two-year courses. Collegiate. Secretarial. Mrs. Marian W. Skinner. M.A., Miss Louise H. Scott, Box D, The Weylister, Milford, Conn.

The Gateway A School for Girls offering regular college prepara- tory work. One year Tutoring. General and Special courses. Miss Alice E. Reynolds, Principal,

St. Ronan Terrace, New Haven, Conn. I

Meno soll: hi WER ae et pr ri < Box v sie CROSSING, MASS.

An Endowed ROGERS HALL schosttorGins College Preparatory and Academic Courses. Two year Graduate Course. Gymnasium. Swimming- pool. Outdoor Sports. Faces Rogers Fort Hill Park. Miss Olive Sewall Parsons, Principal, Lowell, Mass, CHOATE SCHOOL 1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Mass. A country school in a model town. For girls 5 to 19 years. Preparatory and General Courses. Outdoor life. “Address, AUGUSTA CHOATE, Vassar, Principal THE MARY A. BURNHAM SCHOOL For girls. Est. 1877. College preparatory and spe- cial courses, also one-year intensive college prepa- ration. Opposite Smith College campus. Outdoor sports. Limited to 100. Miss Helen E. Thompson, Principal, Northampton, Mass. BRADFORD ACADEMY Founded in 1803. A Junior College for Girls College Preparatory and Special Courses. Katharine M. Denworth, Ph. D., Principal Bradford Massachusetts Stoneleigh Be The Sea Beautiful estate. Attractive fireproof mansion. Only 50 miles north of Boston. All sports. College Pre- paratory and Junior College Courses. Isabel — Caroline Sumner, Principals, Rye Beach, N. Marty Lyon Schol avaary ? yO cultural. beg 2- a —_ <— Seven Gables, girls 6-12. Mr. and Mrs. H. M. Crist, Prins., Box 1509, Swarthmore, Pa, ARLINGTON College Preparatory and Graduate School Courses. 60 Acre Estate 19 mi. from Phila. John H. Bell, Headmaster, L. G. Schacterle, Reg- istrar, Box V, West Chester, Pa.

come Philadelphia. Thorough Pee D College Preparation. Music and Art. All Sports—Riding. For Catalog address, The Secretary, Box V, Bryn Mawr, Pa. Sidiodilicens Manor Home Economics, Secretarial, Expression, Music. College preparatory. New Gymnasium _—

Pool. Lagi ha ding or catalogue address Mr. and Mrs, C. . Wyant, Box 393. Bethlehem, Pa.

GIRLS’ SCHOOLS

Kent Place School for Girls SUMMIT, NEW JERSEY An Endowed School—Thirty-Third Year On the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the Hills of New Jersey twenty miles from New York. COLLEGE PREPARATORY ee Cc Music Athletics MISS HARRIET ‘LARNED HUNT Principal Miss BEARD’S SCH@L Coliege Preparatory, Cultural and Special Courses. Outdoor Sports. Address : Secretary, Orange, New Jersey Martha Washington Seminary For girls. City and country advantages. Junior Col- legiate and High School forms. Household Science. Secretarial Science, Music, Art, Expression. Address Secretary, Box V, Oakcrest, Washington, D. C. hevy Chase Senior High School and Junior College. 24th year—12 acre Campus. For Cultural and Vocational Courses Address F. E. Farrington, Ph.D., Box V, Washington, D. C. National Park Seminary For girls. Suburbs of Washington, D. C. 2-year Junior college course. Music, Art, Home Economics, Expression, Secretarial. College Preparatory. All sports. Riding. Catalog. Box 173, Forest Gien, Md. 7 ING SMITH STUDIO SCHGDL

— Residential School for Young Women. ‘i, @ N Music, dancing, dramatic art, lan- 3 | \ guages and. art; other subjects ar- \ ranged. Mr. & Mrs. August King-Smith 1751 New Hampshire Ave., Wash., D.C. The Misses Stone’s School College Preparatory, General Academic, and Advanced

Cultural Courses. Art, Music, Secretarial and Domestic Science. Preparation for Travel. Miss Isahelle Stone, Ph.D., and Harriet Stone, M.S., 1626 Rhode Island Ave., N.W., Washington, D. C. AIRMON T ForGirls 28th Year College Preparation. Eight 2-Year Junior College di- loma courses. Educational advantages of National vs ital. Address Principal, Washington, D. C.

03 Massachusetts Ave. SULLINS COLLEGE Bristol, Virginia For Girls. Accredited. High School and Junior Col- legecourses. Music, Secretarial, Domestic Science, etc. New buildings; every room connecting bath. Swim- ming Pool, Horseback riding. Mountain climate. CATALOG: W. E. Martin, Ph.D., Pres., Box H VIRGINIA COLLEGE For girls. Four years preparatory, Junior College, and Elective Courses. Accredited. Music, Art, Expres- sion, Home Economics, Journalism, Secretarial and Library Courses. Golf. Tennis. Catalog. Mrs. Julia Abbott Culler, A.M., Prin., Box V, Roanoke, Va. An accredited WARD-BELMONT Junior College for girls and young women. Also preparatory school. Meets the exacting demands of a most discriminat- ing patronage. Complete appointments. For informa- tion address The Secretary, Belmont Heights, Box 305, Nashville, Tenn. F you are uncertain as to which school will best fit the needs of your child, the Condé Nas. Educational Bureau will help you. TARRETT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS CHICAGO. 44th year. Academic, College Pre- paratory, Junior College and special courses. Fully accredited. —— Music Conservatory. New Term begins Feb. Write for catalog and book of views. Box 20, $315. Drexel Boulevard, Chicago.

Ferry Hall ; A distinguished col- lege preparatory school for girls, in 12 wooded acres extending to Lake Michigan, suburban to Chicago. Courses for High School gradu- ates. Sports. Pool. 59th year. Catalog. ELOISE R. TREMAIN, Prin., Box 326, Lake Forest, Ill. Lindenwood College Standard college for young women. Two and four year courses. Accredited. Conservatory advantages. 50 minutes from St. Louis. 100th anniversary year. Every modern facility. Catalog.

J. L. Roemer, Pres., Box 427, St. Charlies, Mo.

Page 56

36

VOGup

Oct GIRLS’ SCHOOLS STUDENT RESIDENCES SCHOOLS ABROAD—Girls DANCING - “A Home uel ESTLAKE & iris Junior College and Accredited College Prep- Special courses in Art, Music, Ex- Catalog 332 So. Westmoreland Ave., Los Angeles, California aration. pression and Home _ Economics.

BOYS’ SCHOOLS PDTON_ SCH Mects me reguirements Of the vou Hi@L For boys to 15. English University Sector. Ba ll for best college preparatory schools. V. Willoughby Barrett, Headmaster Box V, Tarrytown, New York New York Military Academy Cornwall-on-Hudson, N. Y. Brig. Gen. Milton F. Davis, D. S. M. Superinten- dent. College preparatory and junior schools. High scholastic standards, normal military training, com- mereia! courses, sports. The STORM KING SCHOOL Announces as Headmaster, Mr. R. J. Shortlidge, recently Associate Headmaster of The Choate School, and Headmaster of Camp Marienfeld. For catalog address The Headmaster, Cornwall-on-Hudson, N.° Y. KYLE SCHOOL For 50 boys 6 to 16. Beautiful yo 22 miles from New York. 38th year. ‘‘Your school ‘looks so

homelike’’—visitors’ expression. Summer camp in the Catskills. Dr. Paul Kyle, Irvington-on-Hudson, N. Y. Box

The MOHONK SCHOOL A Boarding School for Boys from 10 years to College Age College Preparatory. Technical and Business Courses, Outdoor Life and Health stressed. For Catalog address Jerome F. Kidder, Box V, Mohonk Lake, New York THE MANLIUS SCHOOL “Saint John’s” Military. College preparatory. Thoroughly equipped. Business ‘course. Junior Department. Well-ordered athletics. Catalog. Gen. Wm. Verbeck, Pres., Box 1310, Manlius, ef Lake Placid Club School For Boys. Inthe Adirondacks. Under Lake Placid Club Education Foundation. College preparation in 6 forms. The best in Education, E aie ae Ltra A. Flinner, Director, Lake Placid Club, N. OXBURY A Special Type of Boarding School — Instruction by the Tutorial Method V. Sheriff, Headmaster, Cheshire, Conn. DeWitt School Clinton He bb e€ rd for Boys Prepares for College and Technical School Expert Tutoring Methods, $1200. JouNB.HEBBERD,A.M.,CotTToN St.,NEWTON,Mass

Away from Home "’

for Girls Studying in New York Twelfth year. Elective chaper- onage. Lan- guages. Music. — CATALOGUE Airs. Boswell’s Address Mrs. Henry Harrison Boswell! 344-346 W. 84th St., next Riverside Drive

Telephone Susquehanna 7053 Miss Belden’ $ XK esidence At Riverside Drive A beautifully appointed home for girl students. Large sunny rooms with or without private bath. Centrally located. Open all year. Elective chap- eronage. Catalogue. Tel. Susquehanna 0045. 321 West 80th Street New York

MRS. FARMER’S RESIDENCE New York City An exclusive home for_ stu- dents and young girls desir- ing a season in New York. Attractive home environment. enone elective. French. Bookle 333 West 76th Street Trafalgar 4752 TEASDALE RESIDENCE For Girl Students and Young Women 326 W. 80th St.. Riverside Drive, N. Y. C. Chaperonage French Music Booklet Tel. Susquehanna 7858 Airs. J.P. Wright's Residence An exclusive home for young women studying, or desiring a season in New York. Open all year. Chap- eronage if desired. Tel. Trafalgar 9830. 425 West End Ave., Corner 80th St., N. Y. City THE JANE ACORN formerly the Acorn Club now at 331 West 101st Street, New York City Residence for young women. Music, Art, Business Mary F. Fraser, M. Ethel Sliter, Directors Booklet on request Seventh year MISS FERGUSON’S RESIDENCE A home of exclusive patronage for girls studying

in New York. Conveniently located. Chaperonage if desired. French. Open all year. Est. 1915. Tel. Susquehanna 5343 Catalogue 309-311 West 82nd St., New York City CHILDREN’S SCHOOLS

ORCESTER THoRouGH CoLLece PREPARATION Address, Worcester Academy, Worcester, Ness. > Emphasizes "preparation or College’ Entrance | Beard Examinations. Boys from 30 states. Modern buildings. 60 acres. Athletics for every boy. Six Forms including two grammar grades. 62nd year. Nine miles from Prince- ton. Box 10 V, Hightstown, N. J F. |DGERSTOUNE XW, suston SCHOOL for boys “The Junior Department of lil loakes OF PRINCETON.NJ. 10 to 16 years old. SENIOR SCHOOL: Thorough and successful prep- oration for College Examinations. HNG.HUN, Ph.D., 103StocktonSt., Princeton, N.J. WENONAH MILITARY ACADEMY A high-grade preparatory school. College entrance, business and special courses. Horsemauship under Instructor of een, 12 miles from Phila- delphia. Junior Dept. Catalog and View Book. Write to the Registrar, Box 405, Wenonah, N. J.

ST. HUBERT’S SCHOOL (Miss Jamieson’s School) Founded upon the highest traditions of American private school education in a thoroughly French atmosphere. College preparatory, and academic courses. Traveling during vacations. Visits to museums and places of historic interest. Out of door sports. Resident and day students. French is the language of the school. In July, 1928, the school will move to a large estate near Paris. For booklet address MISS IRENE JAMIESON “aregi follee 6, Avenue de Villars, Paris (7e), France

VILLA AMBOISE A Residential School in Paris for Young Women MUSIC. FINE AND APPLIED ARTS. DRAMATIC ART. DANCING. LECTURES AT THE SORBONNE. DOMESTIC SCIENCE. Unusual opportunities for enjoying and appre- ciating the artistic and cultural life of Paris. French is the language of the school. All sub- jects elective. Traveling during vacations. Riding, golf and tennis. Pupils may enter when- ever a vacancy occurs. Summer residence from July rst to October 1st. For booklet address MISS IRENE JAMIESON

6, Avenue de Villars, Paris (7e), France

Miss Barry’s Foreign School rtorence For Girls ITALY Combining home and school life. Each pupil’s program of study and recreation organized to secure individual progress. Cultural, College Preparatory, and Special Courses. Fencing, Horseback Riding. Trips to Rome, Perugia, Venice. Lower School for younger girls. School year October to June. The Registrar, Box 142, Cambridge, Mass.

* a The Fontaine School ANE Study and travel. Cultural, Finishing and College Prep. courses. Sports. Resident and Day Stu- dents. Director, Miss Marie Louise Fontaine, Care of Women’s City Club, 22 Park Ave., N. Y. City; or Villa Montmorency, Cannes, A. M., France.

SCHOOLS ABROAD—Boys , =~ i 4 ” Chateau-Nenvic School A Church School for American Boys preparing for American Colleges. Wholesome country life organized

in a historic feudal castle. Address: Dr. Conrad Chapman, Head Master, Chateau-Neuvic, Neuvic- sur-I’Isle, Dordogne, France.

An American School in the HATE AU Old World. Preparing boys pr BURES for College. Non-sectarian; Seine-ef- Oise. scientific thoroughness. All sports. Address Chateau de Bures, Box 675, Amherst, Mass., U.S.A. A koe DENISHAW THE RUTH ST. OENIS AINO TEO SHAWN SCHOOL OF DANCING 1927-1928 courses will be conducted by DORIS HUMPHREy CHARLES WEIDMAN and HAZEL KRANS Studio 817 Carnegie Hall ee MAAS) ASS Bend.

Tel ephone Circle 2329 154 West 57th St., New York City OPERA DRAMA

MiISiC COLLEGE ‘of DANCE Aars -

For Acting, Teaching, Directing, Developing poise and pe! sonality es. sential for any calling ini life, ‘Alvin

Ha: Art Theatre and stock Co. ( J, J. Shul ances while ‘learning), N. i. Marguerite Clarks and careers stressed, ‘or Pros. BSth'st. wate to ty Seeretay ‘ee Won Rltni sian SMS |

Every type of dancing taught for Social Affairs. Classes or oeinete Ra for adults or children, beginners, a4- vanced pupils _ or professionals. Special private figure conditioning classes fo Ladies. Write or call for Booklet, {4 Broadway (entrance on 60th St.) Stadio vat (at Columbus Circle) New York City Phone—Columbus 3500 AT MR. AND MISS DURYEA’S CLUB CLASSES one learns to dance well. Ladies’ Classes in Calisthenic and Ballroom Danc- ing mornings 11 A. M. Visi- tor’s card, extending the courtesy of one attendance, sent on request.

BALLROOM —_ cesstul ; DES ARTISTES mercial ° & State R | West 67th St., New York Susquehanna 8440 7002

ROSETTA O'NEILL DANCING Classic—National—Folk—Rhythmic—Ball Room **To Miss O'Neill I owe my gg Vernon Castle Mrs 746 Madison Ave., N. Y. Phone Rhinelander 6770

@ HAPPY HOURY Kindergarten and Primary Bocklet eon request U MRS.M.C.WHYTE o 345 WESTOGTH STREET NEW YORK CITY KINDERGARTEN—FRENCH Selected Outdoor Groups. Children taken to parks, mornings, afternoons. Children called for and brought home. Tenth season. Mile. Frigand, CHILDREN’S CIRCLE, 403 West End Avenue (Corner 79th Street), New York. Susquehanna 8470 CO-EDUCATIONAL THE WASHINGTON SCHOOL of New York 17 East 60th Street A co-educational day school from a

sub-primary through college _— preparatory, registered and accredited by the University of the State of New York. Mabel A. Tenney, Principal

BOYS’ SCHOOLS

SBURG *i3ink 144% YEAR Prepares for all colleges; experienced teachers; small classes; ideal location; new plant including Junior, Middler and Senior Depts. Sixteen acre campus, fine playing fields and courts. Arthur E. Brown, Headmaster, Box V, Harrisburg, Pa. A National Preparatory School Prepares for All Col- leges. Fully Accredited. Exceptional Equip- ment. Single Rooms, Gym, Pool. One teacher Address: MURRAY P.,

CHESTNUT HILL A College Preparatory Boarding School for Boys in the open hil! country. 11 miles North of Philadel- poe. Complete equipment. Senior and Junior Schoo's. . Hyde, M.A. (Yale), Box V, Chestnut Hill, Pa. SWARTHMORE An Old School under New Management. Junior School, Gymnasium, swimming pool. Edward R. Robbins, Princeton ’94. H. Roger Coleman, Yale ’17S, Head Masters. Box V, Swarthmore, Pa.

to every eight boys. BrusH,PH. D., Box 80, Port Deposit, Maryland STAUNTON ‘asa5" ACADEMY A distinguished American school. Prepares for Uni- versities, Government Academies, Business. Super) disciplinary training equaled by academic excellence, Col. T. H. Russell, B.S., Pres., Box V, Staunton, Va. STUY VESANT College Preparation. Small Classes

Athletics. Fox Hunting. Week-end Camp Edwin B. King, Headmaster, Warrenton, Va. Military and NORTHWESTERN Naval Academy 70 mi. from Chicago. An endowed College Pre-

n Episcopal School near Baltimore and | Washington. Preparation for college. For 180 acres. New fireproof dormitory. Ad- . Denslow, B.A., Box 36, IIchester, Md. <2 0NALDSON Boys 19- " dress T, | paratory School and Junior College. Its distinctive | advantages and methods interest discriminating parents. | Col. BR, P. Davidson, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wis. EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN

BANCROFT SCHOOL FOR RETARDED CHILDREN Established 1883 1 For children from five to sixteen requiring individual instruction. Highly trained staff, including resident Physician and Nurse. Modern equipment. Home environment with ample opportunity for outdoor activ- ities. Summer camp on Maine coast affords complete change of climate for four months under same staff. Catalogue on Request DIRECTORS E. A. Farrington, M. D., and Jenzia C. Cooley Box 145 Haddonfield New Jersey

THE WOODS’ SCHOOL For Exceptional Children Three Separate Schools GIRLS BOY LITTLE FOLKS July 1 to Sevt 1. Box 169, Langhorne, Pa. Mrs. Mollie Woods Hare, Principal PERKINS Pies OF ADJUSTMENT For children requiring special training and educa- tion. Unsurpassed equipment on 60-acre_ estate. Home life. Exnerienced Staff. Medical direction. Frestte H. sais M.D., Box 54, Lancaster, Mass. Camp with tutoring, Booklet

THE MARY E. POGUE SCHOOL & SANITARIUM heaton. Vl. For children and young people needing individual attention, special training and medical supervision. College-trained faculty. Special instruction in artic- ulation, hand-work. Gratifying result ; many stu- dents become normal. Further information uponrequest. DEVEREUX SCH@LS For Children whose Proaress has_been Retarded Separate Schools for Boys, Girls, and Young Childven. Academic and voraticnal curses. Special instruction.

Write Helena T. Devereux, Dir., Box V, Berwyn, Pa. i “* CHALIF ssa | -... H. eo Principal “Highest Standards of Artistic Merit” Fall and Winter Courses. Catalog on request. 163-165 WEST 57th ST., NEW YORK CITY ARTHUR MURRAY ,; America’s finest teachers of ballroom dancing. Beginners’ specialists. Re- duced rates now. 7 East 43rd St. Vanderbilt 1773 mnie BEAUCAIRE Unrivaled Teacher oj SPANISH DANCING & CASTANET PLAYING

310 Rin

I Write for Catalogue “* » — 855 CARNEGIE HALL, N. Y. Circle Cas Se ee er 2 0 F you are uncertain as to which school will best oie

fit the needs of your child, the Condé Nast 7 iducational Bureau will help you. 4 q —— DRAMATICS ; LITA BARNETT Kal Individual Training ue : STAGE - Emphasis on PLATFOR cated Speaking voice and Diction Bosto Studio, 152 West 57th Street, New Y i) _____ Telephone Circle 1500'S 4 | It for Speech, Diction, Reading vee tees ms Stage and Platform Beginners and Professionals. Cireait aT) 105 Vi 60 W West 68th 68th Street, New York Endic er AMERICAN ACADEM Y of DRAMATIC ARTS "For 42 uy the leading in stitution for Dramatic and Expressional Training in heats New Fall Term Begins Oct. 26. eradn Free catalog describes all Rag oo NY houses Secretary 251-J, Carnegie Hall, New York, rer EE AGIN SCHOOL of Dramatic Mt —Publie ‘Acting — Directing —Teaching Pub!

i Develops - een’ in Expression. Die 8 S C tomime, Stagecraft, Children ® \ Fall term begins ‘October 3 176 pY-ABN 112 Carnegie Hall, N. Y- 610 Le

Page 57

Phone le 2329 City ———__.

r Stage or te lessons ners, ad- Special asses for let. 1841 udio VM; k City . tYEA’S arns to sses in n Danc- . Visi. | g the dance, t. )M TES nna 8440 LL |

October ao; 1927

APPLIED ARTS | APPLIED ARTS

attiiiaiiiciaciaii

period and modern sional, Design an Workshop courses. your spare time, Startatonce. + 578 MADISON AVENUE

Traphagen School of Fashion Intensive Eight Months Winter Course All phases from elementary to full mas- tery of costume design and illustration are taught in shortest time compatible with thoroughness. Specializing has ma- terially added to the strength of school. Our sales department disposes of student work. Saturday adult’s and _ children’s classes. Telephone Circle 1788 or write for Announcement V. Inspection invited. 1680 Broadway [near 52nd St.] New York

FINE & APPLIED ARTS

N. Y. School of Fine & Applied Art New York—Paris Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres, ONLY SCHOOL OF KIND) Wm. M. Odom, V.-Pres, Interior Architecture and Decoration; Stage, Costume and Advertising Design, etc, CATALOGUES Address Sec., 2239 Broadway, New York City GRANDCENTRALSCHOOLOFART Individual talent developed under direction of suc- cessful artists. Drawing, Painting, Sculpture, Com- mercial and Applied Arts. Credited by New York State Regents. Catalogue, 7002 Grand Central Terminal, New York City CERTAINLY; Mose axeyouasal™ a Tey: “°% Eas ~ Het CERTAINLY: O8E Reese c /*) CHICAGO ACADEMY RB

So oOFFINE ARTS Sitecro \JAN.3 — fn 8) E. MADISON ST CHICAGO MASTER INSTITUTE OF UNITED ARTS MUSIC--PAINTING—SCULPTURE | ARCHITECTURE—OPERA CLASS | BALLET — DRAMA — LECTURES

New Term Begins October rst. 310 Riverside Drive (cor. 103rd St.) New York, N. Y. METROPOLITAN ART SCHOOL Micuet Jacoss, Director, 58 W. 57 St., N. Y. Author of “‘The Art of Color’’ & ‘“The Study of Color’’ LIFE—PORTRAIT—POSTER—COSTUME DESIGN—INTERIOR DECORATION Classes now in session NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Interior Decoration, Color, Costume, Commercial Poster. Design. Dynamic Symmetry, Life. Sketch Class, Dormitory, Catalog. Felix Mahony, Pres. Connecticut Ave. and M, Washington, D. C

SECRETARIAL INTERIOR: DECORATION PRACTICAL TRAINING COURSE Fall Term commences October 3rd NTENSIVE training in the selection and harmonious arrangement of I | Bean arly color schemes, etc. Faculty com osed of leading New York decorators. Cultural, Profese

Send for Catalog 7-R

HOME STUDY COURSE HOSE who cannot come to New York may take the same subjects by T the Home Study method. Students obtain personal assistance from our regular Faculty. No previous training necessary. Practical, simple, authori- tative and intensely interesting course. Requires a few h New YORK SCHOOL OF INTERIOR DECORATION Chartered by the Board of Regents, University of the State of New York

KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL | SECRETARIALand Executive Training for Edu- cated Women. Resident School in Boston. | Boston New York Providence MISS CONKLIN SECRETARIAL SCHOOL 105 West 40th St. New York ReE’RSK INE. scuoo we and Technical Training for girls who are “mg , a Bye > ——. Four residence . I alog address: Euphemia McCl yl ‘.M., 129 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass. nein BALLARD SCHOOL 610 Lex. Ave. at 53rd St.

Register Now For | SECRETARIAL COURSE Established 55 years Central Branch Y. W. C. A.

draperies, wall treatments, Day and Evening Sessions. ours weekly in Send for Catalog 7-C NEW YORK CITY

MOVING PICTURE and STAGE DESIGN Individual instruction under the direction of Emil Alvin Hartman America’s Foremost Instructor of Fashion Art FALL ENROLLMENTS FASHION ACADEMY Ne exst ‘Sond Street off Fifth ion New York City

Learn Dress Designing, Fitting, Pattern Cutting, Dressmaking “ Costumes, Suits, Cloaks, Fur Garments, Underwear, Misses & children’s Dresses. For Profes- sional or Personal Use. Individ- ual Instruction. Easy to Learn. Day and Evening Sessions, Con- venient Payments, Est. Over 50 Years Mitchell Designing School 15 West 37th Street, New York Designing and Millinery Dressmaking, Draping, Pattern Cutting. Indi- vidual Instruction in Trade Methods for Whole- sale and Retail. Also for personal use. Day and Evening Classes. Open all year. Call or write now for particulars. Established 1876. No Branches. McDOWELL Dressmaking and Millinery School

For the BRIDE- ELECT

A perfect wedding is the ideal of every bride. So much of the detail can be planned by Dean’s, and always with the assurance of su- preme distinction.Wedding Cake in Monogrammed Boxes, the Bride’s Cake—favors, decorations and novelties. Write for illustrated booklet, ‘Wedding Requisites.” FULL CATERING SERVICE WITHIN REASONABLE DISTANCE OF NEW YORK und 628 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK

71 West 45th St., New York Designing, BLEEKS %yainirs» SCHOOL Dressmaking, Patterncutting, Operating and Sketch- ing. Wholesale, Retail and Home courses. Hana Painting on Materials taught. Individual instrue- tion. Day and Evening. Positions. Booklet V upon request. 261 West 125th St., N. Y. C. COSTUME <The School of Famous Graduates

browns desi<ner's __§97-599 FIFTH AVENUE -( NEW YORK __ = ee OO

AVE you found the school that you feel will best meet your requirements? If not, we will help you. Write full details to the Condé Nast Educational Bureau HOME STUDY BOSTON SCHOOL OF INTERIOR DECORATION Correspondence Courses Course A—Professional Training Courses. Course Semeete Course—How to Plan Your Own ouse, Enrollment limited—Write for Prospectus Address P. O. Box 343, Boston (Back Bay Sta.), Mass. SCHOOL of DESIGNING FOR GIRLS OR WOMEN Use spare moments at home to , ~ learn art of designing and Dept. tae a we N. 633 carn 0 to $100 a < ‘eek. M FRANKLIN week. Mail Coupon, INSTITUTE Today. wee wv Rochester, N. Y. —_—_———-~ Please mail free 32 page ‘‘Gown Book’’ with sample lessons to Name as Address

DESIGNING

Grace es Le ~ ---in simple but ~ CHIC fall pump BLACK SATIN WITH BLACK KID m=, TRIM - - - $18.50 Re PATENT LEATHER, BLACK SUEDE OR BROWN KID - $19.59 %, FRANK BROTHE Fifth Avenue Boot Shop ~~

Rae: Between 47th and 48th Streets. New Yor

washingTox, EXHIBIT cH#cgo | Woodward Big orPE — GHOPS) —bakiag ST LOUIS PITTSBURGH sti = el Arca le Building Jenkins ae We have no agencies- Our Shoes are sold in our own Shops only

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38 The JHOPS of VOGUE in PARU WORLD'S BEST FURS AND BEST STYLES GRUNWAIDI 6,RUE DE LAPAIX PARIS dreves wraps furs camille roger 6.rue dela paix. paris Gilbert René, Paris artist-designer, derives the keenest pleasure in sec- ing his clients beautifully gowned Monsieur Georges, _ nN 4 & J oS BY J -— ff # me foe EA, i ~ a os i oF ee fy f é a¢ Liam py # a 4%, KER OAL $C $trstod ? a ad a / ve é N interesting aspect of the Paris couture is the one pre- sented by the number of the smaller houses that spe- cialize in gowns bearing the hall-mark of Paris at prices within the reach of the woman of moderate means. One of the foremost amongst them is the House of Georges et Janin, at 25, rue de la Boétie. Though it has been established only three and a half years, the premises have already been more than doubled, and Monsieur Georges looks forward to acquiring yet another floor in the same building in order to extend the workrooms required by his perpetually growing staff of employees. In spite of a season that has been notoriously bad, Mon- sieur Georges has no complaints to make on his own score. He has worked steadily and refuses to listen to friends who urge him to move to one of the fashionable arteries with names more closely allied to dressmaking. He believes that where you start well, there your luck is, and he is re- luctant to tempt Fortune elsewhere. For fourteen years, before he launched his own house, Monsieur Georges was a modelist in a well-known dress- (Continued on page 40) 27 |-RUE-AHONORE-PARI/ FAIRYLAND NO BRANCH IN AMERICA COUTURIER FOR CHILDREN AND YOUNG GiRL/_| ss ee DRECOLL ——— 130. AV’ DES CHAMPS ELYSEES _ PARIS VOGU; The INOPS of VOGUE PAR GSOvP Manteaux : Robes | Lingeriés ' 2 %, = SI 335 acca ioip bales 10,Rue de Castiglione PARIS LOUISEBOULANGER CHAMPSELYSEES 3RUE DE BERRI ; 4 DRESSES ; FURS ; MANTLES | LINGERIE ; [BRIALIX] ORESSES MANTLES FURS LINGERIE SPORT & «3 104 CHAMPS - ELYSEES.

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Th. SAOPS & VOGUE «<n PARIS Pe Shiie ee Se R EDELA PAIA

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40 The SHOPS of VOGUE in PARU Fur Coats Cloth Coats IS AVENUE MATIGNON PHONE: ELYS.99-08 + 84-91 8,PLACE VENDOME PARIY ae THE MOST EXCLUSIVE COUTURIER IN PARIS st Cem és v (Continued from page 38) making establishment in the place Vendéme, so he knows the secrets and workings of the couture. The aim of the house is to make gowns that are simple and in quiet good taste. Monsieur Georges has a horror of the eccentric. In his opinion, eccentricity is the enemy of chic. The perfectly thought-out details of his gowns follow the taste of the moment, but each is impressed with the stamp of Parisian distinction. It was the question of taste that decided Monsieur Georges to take up dressmaking as a career. Beautiful fabrics and women beautifully gowned give him the keenest pleasure. Therefore, it is not surprising that he spends his time helping women to dress well. Though he has never been to America, Monsieur Georges counts many American women amongst his private clients, and he. feels justified in saying that their taste is the same as that of the Parisienne. This opinion was confirmed some time ago when he made a special collection for a well- known New York house, which declared that every model had been a success. Monsieur Georges intends, however, to go to America and study the American chez elle. He may take the trip in November, for he feels sure that the result will be renewed inspiration and an increased ability to give his American clients just what they want. In one respect, Monsieur Georges differs strangely from many dressmakers. He dislikes a client to grow tired of a gown he has created. His pride and his aim are to make frocks that will te worn a great many times by their owners and then laid aside with regret.. This is the point of view of the true artist. E. W. B. Zh FAUBOURG SAINT-HOPMRE, PARIS BRTING TRAVELLING ANG PANCY GOODS * VOGuM 0c! WELLY SOEURS MODES COUTURE LINGERIE | 21.FAUBOURG S' HONOREY PARIS | Toque of beige grey taffe- ta, with trimming of the same shade. CHAPKA 362, Rue Saint- Honoré Paris Bs 243, Rue St-Honoré ARIS DRESSES WRAPS FURS LINGERIE SPORTS PERFUMES 25, RUE LA BOETIE: PARI

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The SHOPS & VOGUE «x PARIS ais sSTUDIO; 1¢ DORLAN

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42 The SHOPS kL VWOGUE «nn PARIS

SR a A f Ce A eae Te SM Ce ais = anda 0 sh ie . = E fe, fe bs i i kf: r P ¥ F t i be

ome ROOM ORL ig, TT eM

? / E F f : ia ; wad 4 : i $ ¢ # Fe &S . ae ¢ & 3 4 : a toe eee | D Yi i = «6 a &€ i ; a f A i 4 & H od b | f 4 a E 4 : i ' Fa ee | ty ‘ - on anita A “i OEE ag ini cea: _ tegiitels, i 4 <n ‘sia ee oa ead ' K soma a — sspears Se Ge th AE imme cate At Scie \ pesenice' SA ig AN jae i a Rit

ee a Ne Soto ara nic cs BRS ee as abe eiupikiest «é Ul HU | aa a ee IE OT See Site & ok

COUTURIER 10 RU Eve CASTIGLIONE

VOGUR

JANE REGNY | Creator of couture sport A Paris—11, rue de la Boetie A Biarritz, 2, rue Gambetta

— VOGUE'S TEL.: ELYSEES 79-12 BOOK OF ETIQUETTE m by the editors of Vogue, treats | | SUZANNE GLE of social conventions with a dix | F tinction and charm that no other | J. PERRAUDIN Sr book on the subject ps ow : claim to possess. You will be gla ; MODES to own this book which speaks with the authority of Vogue's er long experience as arbiter of 21, Avenue des CHAMPS-ELYSEES social contacts. Four : PARIS dollars, postpaid. q Greenwich VOGUE Connectct| 4

——_s

Be sure before you leave to take note of this address MALBOROUGH 59, RUE ST. LAZARE Models a Specialty from the latest collections of Parisian couturiers bearing authentic signatures

IMMEDIATE DELIVERY -- - FAULTLESS ALTERATIONS Moderate prices marked in plain figures _—

Oct {

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Th SHOPS & VOGUE «. PARIS VOGUR Octo nage sTuore DOW AN

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The SHOPS of VOGUE in NEW YORK | Ae YAMANAKA & CO. 680 FIFTH AVE. NEW YORK DISTINCTIVE AND DECORATIVE ORIENTAL ART OBJECTS AND GIFTS WASHINGTON BOSTON CLEVELAND Of course it’s “Catering by Sherry” her are igl catering is unmis- takable. Unique in excel- lence . . . adding cachet to the most formal entertainment . . . bringing to both hostess and guest a sense of perfec- tion in every detail of menu and service. In brief, there are flattering implications in the words “catering bySherry”. Cur Catering Office: 300 Park Avenue i) Fifth Avenue at 58th Street 373 Fifth Avenue The Waldorf-Astoria New York = |) ee “ T | "1 mM i SCO ' | T 1 wat vi] a er I. ia Births Births—Continued NEW YORK _Binger.—On August 5, to Dr. Carl A. L. Binger and Mrs. Binger (Clarinda K. Garri- son), a son. Dwight.—On August 6, to Mr. and Mrs. George Dwight (Georgie Potts), a son, George Dwight, junior. Farrelly.—On August 10, to Mr. and Mrs. Richard L. Farrelly (Mary Catherine Ritchie), a daughter. Hathaway.—On August 5, to Mr. and Mrs. Harold G. Hathaway (Louise Phillips), a son. Lincoln.—On August 5, to Mr. and Mrs. Frederic W. Lincoln, junior, (Isabel Rocke- feller), a daughter. Rose.—On August 8, to Mr. and Mrs. James McKinley Rose (Helen Goodwin), a son, James McKinley Rose, junior. Stewart.—On August 6, to the Reverend George Stewart and Mrs. Stewart (Sarah M. Klebs), a daughter, Anne Stewart. DETROIT Baker.—On August 12, to Mr. and Mrs. Edwin W. Baker (Frances G. Macauley), a daughter, Sally Wadsworth Baker. Dickinson.—On August 12, to Mr. and Mrs. Selden Dickinson (Marian Davis), a son. McGraw.—On August 23, to Dr. Arthur B. McGraw and Mrs. McGraw (Leola Stew- art), a daughter, Grace McGraw. Palms.—On August 16, to Mr. and Mrs. Charles Louis Palms, junior, (Marion Dwyer), a son. Rust.—On August 5, to Mr. and Mrs. David W. Rust (Margaret Keena Page), a daughter. PHILADELPHIA Castle.—On July 26, to Mr. and Mrs. Manderson Castle, junior, (Louisa J. Bache), a daughter, Louisa Johnston Casile. Clay.—On August 12, to Mr. and Mrs. Edward Biddle Clay (Katherine Gossler), a daughter, Mary Claflin Clay. Lorimer.—On August 13, to Mr. and Mrs. Graeme E. Lorimer (Sarah H. Mogs), a daughter, Sarah Lee Lorimer. Need.—On August 5, to Lieutenant Harry W. Need and Mrs. Need (Helen B. Logan), a son, John Logan Need. Taylor.—On August 12, to Mr. and Mrs. Roger W. Taylor (Marjorie Canby), a daugh- ter, Elizabeth Haddon Taylor. WASHINGTON Rinehart.—On August 6, to Mr. and Mrs. Alan Gillespie Rinehart (Gratia Houghton), a daughter, Gratia Houghton Rinehart. (Continued on page 45) “THE TRAINED EYE often wonders at the presence of inferior or inappropriate paintings in an other- wise well appointed room.” .... of a charming young lady, “‘Miss Drake,’’ by Thomas Hudson, 1701-1779, would be a most distinctive addi- tion to an 18th Century English room. Practical advice on the subject of correct paintings may be obtained at THE GALLERY OF P. JACKSON HIGGS, 11 EAST 54TH STREET, NEW YORK, where many genuine examples of different periods at varying prices may be seen. . This portrait in N The SHOPS of VOGUE A step Be 6 West 57th Street, New Vork | LARGER AND MORE BEAUTIFUL EW YORK | an fromGifth Avenue | MOVING | TO OUR NEW HOME 20 West 57th Streei WHERE THE SPIRIT OF SMART FEMININITY WILL FIND UN- USUAL EXPRESSION IN BRUCK- WEISS CRE: ATIONS IN A MUCH SETTING. Nevth dik LANCE S Qen match ex. SA Fitting the Narre Weel “Her Diary 714 FIFTH_AVENUE joot feo, dth thaw w NtwW Narrow- Shank Shorcrall | slippers \ Dheyne thot smart Ikaek Patient Qeathen with toask-clrned astralar - $22.50. Qmnd Shot.cnaft had hosting a i ears to Sizes Itol0 AA AA ol 1IOW.SO™ST. NEW YORK eMada me: We would appreciate the pleasure of your visit as we have just received our new winter models from Paris. Beautiful models of Coats, Hats and Dresses which we make to your order. Little Boys’ Suits in Linens, Pon- gees and Knitted Wools. Children’s Underwear, the smart short kind you have looked for every- where and been unable to find. For Madame we are showing lovely Parisian Underwear and Negligees. Your visit will be appreciated. Sairyland INC. Models from Rue de la Paix to New York's exclusive shopping district, personalized for the discerning woman— impeccably gowned in ultra-modern style 118 Gast 60° Street~-New York Ci ISTY¥YLB FORECAST VD ON REQUEST E the rich beauty tinction of our frocks. embroidered Binding and thread cord. silks, crepes. clude gowns for a sions—stamped of Peasant han Chicago, 717 Boston, 29 Nev Rich Distinction in smart Fall Frocks THIS new model, “Lu- bica,” is an example of The simple lines are made interesting and smart by the graceful, flat- tering sleeves, beautifully by lacing of hand-made silk and gold This many other models in the lustrous new velvets, finest broadcloths Our original creations in- Il occa- the artistic distinction d work. Write for new illustrated Booklet CZECHOSLOVAK ART STUDIOS | Originators of the Peasant oe 124 East 57th St., New Yor vbury St. Miami Beach, $1l- and dis- Peasant hand. and and with N. Michigan Blvd. 54g, Ast

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Combination ° DRESSES Ln Deaths Deaths—Continued ‘ A New One-Piece Garmen TESS GOWN MART if with hip, abdominal and NEW YORK BOSTON HOSTES s UN- liaphragm control Chandler.—On August 5, Mary Wads- Beals.—On August 8, Edith Ware Beals, UCK- : sh sé eo Saat i worth Chandler, wife of the late Porter wife of the late Joshua Gardner Beals. NEGLIGEES rUCH Astraight-line foundation for your gown. Chandler. Burnett.—On August 16, Harry Burnett. by appointment only Tru, «Ip Gary.—On August 15, Elbert H. Gary, Farlow.—On August 17, Lilian Horsford

379 Fifth Ave. | YOUTH! ME | «6 Zephyrwate Yan Orden

New York, N. Y.

C63 ae (Continued from page 44)

husband of Emma Townsend Gary. Gibson.—On August 17, at Woodbury, Long Island, Robert Williams Gibson, hus- band of Caroline J. Hammond Gibson. Goddard.—On August 7, Minna Godwin Goddard, wife of the late Frederic Norton Goddard. Farlow, wife of the late William Gilson Farlow. CHICAGO Armour.—On August 16, at London, England, J. Ogden Armour, husband of Lolita Shelden Armour. 45

The SHOPS of VOGUE in NEW YORK

yi AY ‘ ‘Daisy GARSON LINGERIE ano NEGLIGEES NEW YORK

TROUSSEAUX LINGERIE SPORT & DAYTIME Tel. Plaza 8876 142 E. SSth St,

Hoyt.—On August 5, at Ipswich, Massa- chusetts, Mary Appleton Hoyt, wife of the late Gerald Livingston Hoyt. Norrie.—On August 15, Margaret Morgan DETROIT Field.—On August 15, Vincent Field, husband of Florence Hilliere Field.

oD K, ear Shesdia, ew August 27, Henry Cottrell Norrie.—On August 25, A. Gordon Norrie, ‘ husband of the late Margaret Morgan Norrie. —<— On August 27, Delos Leonard

Yandell.—On August 11, Lunsford P. Sa) Yandell, husband of Elizabeth Hosford Wilton.—On July 30, Harry Leonard Wilton, husband of Mary Jones Wilton. vu ™ ‘ cura Devartment

Smoot] Yandell. i confidently invites you to ATLANTA PHILADELPHIA : ¥ | make it a visit—knowing Stewart.—On August 23, Caroline Robin- Perkins.—On August 7, Francis M. » with the exceeding smartness son Stewart, wife of the late Joseph Alexander Perkins. ' of its Stewart. (Continued on page 46) OL) = ia FROCKS a SWEATERS ; SCARFS DO YOU KNOW OUR EXCELLENT RESTAURANT? DELICIOUS MEALS— EFFICIENT SERVICE— A DELIGHTFUL RENDEZVOUS NEW YORK EXCHANGE WOMAN’S WORK 54/ Madison Avenue NewYork

Exhibition of antiques and master-reproductions . including exquisite é

NURSES’ & MAIDS’ UNIFORMS

importations. {Interior decorating depart- ment under the personal di- rection of Lans Madison Ave. Galleries 554 Madison Ave. at 55th St. New York

Send for Catalog A Telephone Plaza 2573 19 West 57th St., N. Y.

A FINGER WAVE~ A PERMANENT WAVE U HAIR CUT~ ~

are all rendered with perfectartistry by Monsieur Dumas

Dresses (\jllinery (Novelties, Originals and A daptations Nettie Gordon ine 787 /\edi sen Avenue New Yo rk ee ee

ov

DUMAS 630 FIFTH AVENUE BETWEEN SO™ & Sir STREET NEW YORK

Jel. Circle 3676-4328

19 East goth Street |

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46 The SHOPS of VOGUE in NEW YORK Chew a soft broad permanent wave can give you the natural charm of youth and beauty. ARNOLD & JACK 3 West 50th Street New York City Circle o880 Circle 4519 Charles Bock HAIRDRESSER PAR EXCELLENCE ANNOUNCES HIS New Address 20 East 57 TELEPHONE PLAZA 5610 Sra 1 > (Continued from page 45) Engagements Cc Cc Engagements—Continued NEW YORK Bevans-Maddox.—Miss Isabel Bevans, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. D. Peyton Bevans, to Mr. William J. Maddox, son of Mr. and ae George A. Maddox, of Washington, Brown-Gray.—Miss Barbara Lothrop Brown, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward W. Brown, to Mr. Carl A. Gray. Clarkson-Conway.—Miss Olivia Clark- son, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Coker F. Clarkson, of Scarborough-on-the-Hudson, New York, to Mr. Cotter Conway, son of Mr. and Mrs. Carle Cotter Conway. Comstock-Moffat.—Miss Lydia Com- stock, daughter of Mr. George Carlton Com- stock, to Mr. Fraser Muir Moffat, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Fraser Muir Moffat. Eno-Hopkinson.—Miss Alice L. Eno, daughter of Mr. Henry Lane Eno, to Mr. Henry Lennox d’Aubigné Hopkinson, son of Mr. and Mrs. H. L. Hopkinson, of London, England. Ferguson-Chapman.— Miss Carroll How- ard Ferguson, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Alfred L. Ferguson, to Mr. Daniel K. Chap- man, son of Mr. and Mrs. Edwin N. Chap- man. Hubbell-Lord.—Miss Margaret Hubbell, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George L. Hubbell, to Mr. Philip S. Lord, son of Mr. and Mrs. Alonzo Boardman Lord, of Evanston, Illinois. Kirby-Post.—Miss Janet Kirby, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Rollin Kirby, to Mr. Lang- don W. Post, son of Mr. and Mrs. Waldron K. Post. Ober-Farnell.—Miss Frances Victoria Ober, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Charles K. Ober, of Maryland, to Mr. William Edward Farnell, son of Mr. and Mrs. D. Newton Farnell, of Suffolk, Virginia. Peters-Kearney.—Miss Sally Peters, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph S. Peters, of East Orange, New Jersey, to Mr. George Tyler Kearney, son of Mr. and Mrs. Robert S. Kearney, of South Orange, New Jersey. Stewart-Pierson.—Miss Frances Dor- othy Stewart, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William A. W. Stewart, to Dr. Richard N. Pierson, son of Dr. Samuel Pierson and the late Mrs. Pierson, of Stamford, Connecticut. BALTIMORE Redwood-Furst.—Miss Mary Louise Redwood, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Redwood, to Mr. Lowry Bowman Furst, son of Mr. Clyde Bowman Furst and the late Mrs. Furst, of New York. (Continued on page 47) RIVIERA Famous Creators of Beauty Careful, expert attention results in the achieve- ment of a beauty rare and distinctive. Riviera 19-21 West 57th Street, New York For an appointment phone Plaza 0712-0713 VOGUE The SHOPS of VOGUE in NEW YORK fide. L. Trent {formerly with Bob, Inc. } has returned from Zegora’s Paris salons with many new and ultra designs to apply to the custom-made shoes that she will create to complete your fall ensemble. 631 FATA wot. = |p NEw ornk For the Miss of Tomorrow Wedesign clothes that help develop a knowledge of true worth and good taste, Cus- tom made cos- tumes for misses and children. 20: eae MOAB 22 East 65th Street, New Yoh ee ; A leader in the art of Permanent Waving he perfection to which Per- manent Waving has_ been brought today has been ac- complished only through the dili- gent work of a few experts of old_ standing. My originations in methods and styles during the past 20 years are today examples of excellence of which there are many imitators. Get your permanent wave from an old master. George reiMme?r 20 Years Permanent Waving exclusively 9 East 45th St., New York Tel. Vanderbilt 1365-6-7-8 Transformations but will also do permanent waving finger waving _ hair cutting facial treatments shampooing introducing, in rooms dedicated to the lovely ladies of history, an individuality of service such as was accorded them in their own salons. Phone Plaza 1362 for an appointment chanqis ts addness Zanky wn OcTobwr +o D4 weet 54 ot where he will continue to create his amazingly natural Transformation worn by Adele Astaire | sustet Revealed UDSON’S Milk of Sen, orIS Cream a New Yor been perfected by one of } F leading chemists for women who pos ize the value of a flawless plexion. R ‘ A pure liquid cre : u selene and whitens the skin. a the face alone but for the han nd of body as well. For dry skin, be - sunburn apply daily and — with cess with a soft cloth. Finis Carpine face powder. 4 oz. bottle—$1.50 8 oz. bottle— 4.9 Carpine Face Powder—$1.00 (all “ay Orders sent C. 0. D. upon reques When in town visit our beauty sa 30 West 51st St., N. Y- C. HUDSON & CO. INC. Chemists 30 West 5ist St., New York m that beautifies, | |.

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Ora’s new ly to that ete October 7TS., 1927 Tre SHOPS of VOGUE in NEW YORK eS rehAY Lh CUSTOM MADE +SHOES has created an opera and a Shepherdess model slipper which are offered as a stock special for October. Hand- made, of brown, white or beige kid, or black patent kid in regular sizes. Their special price, $28.00, belies their perfection. The supply is strictly limited. Other models, custom-made, $40.00 and more. Prochure on request 94 EAST 5O NEW YOR oT. K Kashan Jar 18th Century 6 pe Persian Jars of the 17th and 18th century from Kash- an, Kirman and Sultanabad—har- moniously mounted into lamps —for holding flowers or used merely for their decorative value. Unmounted ............... from $35.00 up Mounted without parchment shade via Maeeesss sees from $45.00 up Mounted with genuine parchment shade (as above _ illustrated) $95.00 complete American Colony Stores of Jerusalem 559 Madison Ave. New York Jee, mee (Continued from page 46) The SHOP§ of VOGUE in NEW YORK Engagements — Continued Weddings BOSTON Follett-Jacob.—Miss Lydia Constance Follett, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Austin Woodbridge Follett, to Mr. Walter Phelps Jacob, son of Mrs. Mary Phelps Jacob, of New York. CHICAGO Ames-Lyford.—Miss Helen Hildegarde Ames, daughter of Mrs. Herman Pierce Singer, of Paris, France, to Mr. Calhoun Theodore Lyford, son of Dr. Will Hartwell Lyford and Mrs. Lyford. Burkley-McCarthy.—Miss Eleanor Fene- lon Burkley, daughter of Mr. Henry V. Burkley, of Omaha, Nebraska, to Mr. Daniel F. McCarthy, of Evansville, Indiana, son of a Daniel Edward McCarthy, of Chicago, inois. Morton-Gammon.—Miss Jane Morton, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Mark Morton, to Mr. Frank Royal Gammon, of Cedarhurst, Long Island, son of Mrs. Frank R. Gammon, of Concord, Massachusetts. DETROIT Crowley-Newbold.—Miss Betty Evans Crowley, daughter of Mrs. William Cornelius Crowley, to Mr. Haywood Dana Newbold, son of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Ross Newbold, of Colorado Springs, Colorado. RICHMOND Lindsey-Branch.—Miss Elsie Lindsey to Mr. John Akin Branch. NEW YORK Allen-Ackermann.—On September 22, in Christ Church, Bronxville, Mr. John Wood- ford Allen, son of Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Field Allen, and Miss Catherine Marie Acker- mann, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick T. Ackermann. Bartlett-Daggett.—On August 15, in the American Cathedral, Paris, France, Mr. Russell Sturgis Bartlett, son of Mr. and Mrs. Philip Golden Bartlett, and Miss Emilie Jeannette Daggett, daughter of the late Dr. William Gibbons Daggett and Mrs. Daggett, of New Haven, Connecticut. Brewer-Hunt.—On September 17, in Saint Matthew’s Church, Bedford, New York, Mr. Warren Brewer, son of Mrs. William Conant Brewer, and Miss Elizabeth M. Hunt, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Seth Bliss Hunt. Carnochan-Bliss.—On August 9, -in Saint Bernard’s Church, Bernardsville, New Jersey, Mr. Gouverneur Morris Carnochan and Miss Sibyll Baldwin Bliss, daughter of Mrs. Walter Phelps Bliss. Chadbourne-Sterner.—On August 25, in the Chapel of Saint Thomas’s Church, Mr. LeRoy Chadbourne and Miss Olivia Sterner, daughter of Mrs. Marie Sterner. Collender-Hammond.—On August 11, at Greens Farms, Connecticut, Mr. Benjamin Fitch Collender, son of Mrs. William V. Collender, and Miss Dorothea Hammond, daughter of Dr. Graeme Hammond and Mrs. Hammond. (Continued on page 48) Have You Seen The sophisticated little Bobbed Wigs shown by Bosch who is noted for the clever man- ner in which he creates Transformations for Society’s most noted women. An appointment will reveal many unsuspected subtleties in the meth- od and manner of Continental Beauty Culture. Hotel Biltmore, New York Branch: Hotel Commodore HERMAN J. HAIR AND BEAUTY CULTURE MADAM can prove it by getting a “Test Curl” without obligation. Guile Hairdresser Madam can have her grey or white hair (long or bobbed) permanently waved without having the hair turn yellow. Emile achieves perfect results with a special Parisian liquid treatment, which he guarantees, before the hair is waved, not to discolor it. 693 Fifth Ave. Plaza 5090° BOBS THAT EXPRESS PERSONALITY JOHN, ARTHUR and OTTO INCOMPARABLE FINGER WAVES for STRAIGHT HAIR 45 East 49th Street New York City Telephone Plaza 1737 Transformations created by Parme are moulded With exquisite deftness to head, face and Personality. 18 W. 57th St., New York nt 10 East 49th St. Established 17 years Face Without Surgery Why resort to the knife when the famous Marjorie Dork method will restore the lovely contour of your face and neck? Sagging cheeks, double chins, wrinkles, too fleshy noses—all respond like magic to Miss Dork’s individual method of face molding. Cleansing Oil—$2.00 and $7.00 (Ideal cleanser—no massage necessary) Astringent Lotion—$2.00 and $7.00 (for absorbing chin and large pores) Bust Absorbent Lotion—$3.00 and $7.00 (for a large or sagging bust) Skin Food—$2.00 and $5.00 (for dry and wrinkled skin) Bleaching Lotion—$2.00 and $7.00 (for dark, swarthy skin) Face Powder—$2.00 (all shades—adheres freely) Write for booklet. Telephone Murray Hill 0545 or 5997 CMarjorie Dork New York CFROM Paris, the rendezvous of Dame Fashion, has arrived the master-artist Robért with a new creation—the 5 in 1 BOB different, daring, incomparable— a Robért masterpiece to make you more beautiful and admired. Prices moderate. Makes You Ro bert Beautiful Newibeauty booklet *V" on Request 675 Fifth Avenue (nr. 53rd St.), N. Y. Plaza 9023-4-5-6

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\The §HOP§ of VOGUE in NEW YORK | MANUEL — TRANSFORMATIONS — TAS *y ANUEL’S Transformations and Moderne Wigs are the exact reproduction of nature. For quality, simplicity of design and best workmanship they have no equal. Booklet upon request. NEWYORK DAPRIS 2Z9EAST48IHSL 2ORUEDELAPAX “HAIR GOODS EXCLUSIVELY’ W #Y have gray or faded hair when you can double its beauty by allowing Alex- andre & Emile to restore the natural color and lustre thru the aid of their experts ° in hair tinting. SCO rT (Continued from page 47) Weddings —Continued Weddings —Continued Coxhead-Nichols.—On October 6, in the Collegiate Church of Saint Nicholas, Mr. Ralph C. Coxhead, son of Mrs. Ralph S. Coxhead, and Miss_ Kathleen Nichols, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Walter Nichols. Cromwell-Livingston.—On August 20, at Southampton, Long Island, Mr. Frederic Cromwell, son of Mrs. Seymour L. Cromwell, and Miss Cornelia T. Livingston, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Goodhue Livingston. David-Appleton.—On August 31, at Bar Harbor, Maine, Mr. Livingston David, son of the late Mr. and Mrs. Edward Livingston David, of Boston, Massachusetts, and Miss Georgia Appleton, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Sidney Appleton. Hall-Green.—On August 13, Mr. Val- entine G. Hall and Miss Helen Green, of Hollowville, New York. Hanafee-Knapp.—In September, in San Francisco, California, Lieutenant Frank J. Hanafee, son of the late Mr. and Mrs. Frank J. Hanafee, of Indianapolis, Indiana, and Miss Katharine Westcote Knapp, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Chester Winthrop Knapp. Joyce-Dexter.—On September 1, in the Church of the Transfiguration, Mr. Morton Dean Joyce, son of Mr. and Mrs. William B. Joyce, and Mrs. Anne Hoyt Hicks Dexter. Keeney-Baldwin.—On September 17, in Rosemary Chapel, Greenwich, Connecticut, Mr. Roger Butterfield Keeney, son of Mr. Willard F. Keeney, of Grand Rapids, Mich- igan, and Miss Catherine Baldwin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Roger S. Baldwin. Lowrey-Johnson.—On October 8, at Stockbridge, Massachusetts, Mr. John Douglas Lowrey, son of Mrs. Hayter Reed, and Miss Olivia Devereux Johnson, daughter of Mr. Owen Johnson. Lynch-Starr.—On September 1, in Saint Stephen’s Episcopal Church, Ridgefield, Connecticut, Mr. John Hampton Lynch, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. John Hampton Lynch, and Miss Emeline Danforth Starr, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Louis Morris Starr. Milholland-Waterbury.—On August 27, at Saratoga, New York, Mr. Harry Carter Milholland, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Harry Carter Milholland, of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and Miss Nancy Waterbury, daughter of Mrs. David Gray. Morgan-Curtis.—On August 12, at Narragansett Pier, Rhode Island, Mr. Townsend Morgan and Mrs. Harry Curtis. BOSTON Bartlett-Cameron.—On September 9, Mr. Calvin Page Bartlett, son of Mr. and Mrs. John H. Bartlett, of Washington, D. C., and Miss Blanche Cameron, daughter of Mrs. Frank Stanley Cameron, of New Haven, Connecticut. Geissbuhler-Chase.—On August 15, Mr. Arnold Geissbuhler, of Delémont, Switzer- land, and Miss Elizabeth Chase, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Josiah B. Chase. Wearn-Lyman.—On August 30, Dr. Joseph T. Wearn and Miss Susan Channing Lyman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Lyman. (Continued on page 49) Develop Your Beauty! Paul instantly recognizes your individual points of beauty and develops them with the skill of the artist in accordance with your own taste. Therein lies his fame as a beauty culturist. A Announcing the Fall and Winter display of a fascinating collection of afternoon and evening frocks. O complete the ensemble of the Westchester woman of Fashion, many ultra-chic acces- sories may be found here. Service by mail carefully studied ABBY MUIR WALRADT ZILLA LARNED WILSON 14 STUDIO ARCADE BRONXVILLE, N. Y. Telephone 3677 VOGU; ————__ The SHOPS of VOGUE VOGUE'S BOOK of ETIQUETTE by the editors of Vogue, treats of social conven: tions with a distinction and charm that no other book on the subject may even claim to possess. You will be glad to own this book which speaks with the authority of Vogue’s long experience as arbiter of social con- tacts. On sale at all good bookstores, or by mail; $4 postpaid. Marcel Waving $1.25 31 West 58th St. New York TWo DdDOoOokRS -oiffures Ce git i e created to interpret in moulded lines one’s individuality as demanded by the Parisian mode. A new and unique Beauty Salon provides every convenience where one’s particular requirements are deftly filled. Finger Waving $1.50 2S zt Of P-L A 2A Bobs any style $1.00 Phone: Plaza 6649-6650 HOTEL o eliminate any confusion, wish to remind my patrons that there are many Emiles, but only one Circle 8873 Circle This is the only New York Establishment of the internationally famo HOTEL BUCKINGHAM _. 101 West 57 Street, New York City us beauty expe C: 595 Fifth Ave. Phone 18 East 53rd Street New York Murray Hill yy Hi Phene Plaza 1666 estiiiitieaes or 4984- 4985 V O G U E Monmouth Hotel Homestead Hotel 48th Street FIFTH AVENUE — : cut Spring Lake, N. J. Hot Springs, Va. Greenwich Commectica ee es LONDON PARIS ROME LUCERNE { SET PR = oe = a Illu and Silv For thr. and Sty wit

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OCU of a noon le of in of cces- DT ON || RRL TERPS eT ‘TE tes Mh al

expert

Octo

&

ber 15, 1927

ee The SHOPS of VOGUE

Cuis/AStevens-6 Bros cHic AGO FooTWEAR Or CHARACTER for Discriminating Women MAIN FLOOR

SMe (Continued from page 48)

W eddings—Continued

W eddings—Continued

Whitney-Eager.—On September 12, in All Souls’ Unitarian Church, Mr. Harold LeRoy Whitney and Miss Angeline Eager, daughter of Mrs. Arthur Eager. CHICAGO Kellog¢-Mitchell.—On September 24, Mr. John Kellogg and Miss Louise Mitchell, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John J. Mitchell. CLEVELAND Taft-Dakin.—On September 14, Mr. Kingsley Arter Taft, son of Mrs. Frederick L. Taft, and Miss Louise Dakin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Wilson S. Dakin of West Hart- ford, Connecticut. DETROIT Hamilton-Millis.—On September 10, Mr. William Robertson Hamilton, second, and Miss Dorothy Millis, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Wade Millis. PHILADELPHIA Godfrey-Barnard.—On August 27, Lieu- tenant-Commander Vincent Hubbard God- frey, son of Colonel Charles Washington Godfrey and Mrs. Godfrey, of Boston, Massa- chusetts, and Mrs. Owens Barnard, daughter Mclithenny-McClary.—On September 24, at Lake Placid, New York, Mr. John D. Mcllhenny, son of Mrs. John D. Mcllhenny, of Germantown, and Mrs. Opal McCawley McClary, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles McCawley, of London, Ontario. Service-Hooper.—On September 24, in Saint Paul’s Episcopal Church, Chestnut Hil], Mr. William Spencer Service, son of Dr. Charles A. Service and Mrs. Service, and Miss Josephine Grant Hooper, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert P. Hooper. PROVIDENCE Dyer-Huntington.—On September 6, Mr. Randolph Harrison Dyer, son of Mr. and Mrs. H. Chouteau Dyer, of Saint Louis, Missouri, and Miss Elizabeth Huntington, daughter of Professor Henry Barrett Hunting- ton and Mrs. Huntington. WASHINGTON Spencer-Murray.—On September 10, at Pomfret, Connecticut, Mr. Theodore Spencer and Miss Anna Morris Murray, daughter of Dr. T. Morris Murray and Mrs. Murray. Vernon-Hall.—On August 11, Captain Percy McCay Vernon, of East Orange, New Jersey, and Miss Terese Hall, daughter of

The SHOPS of VOGUE

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VOGU; Oct $e IS IT NORMANDY OR PROVENCE? ; ie utter peace of it... the little dovecotes in the gable end of the porch . . . the paved ter- race that wanders along the shady side of the house . .. the leaded windows, the soft-toned plastered bricks, the gentle slopes of the roof. . .. No wonder you think it’s in Europe, with a long, long time in which to grow beautiful. But it’s on Long Island— and it’s new! This is the sort of house-to-fit-your-soul that House & Garden helps you build. A French provin- cial house, perhaps. Or a little Directoire house, if your soul has finished edges. . . . There isn’t a thing about houses that House & Garden doesn’t know—and it’s all yours to command. Furniture, too. . . . The low-down on antiques, if that’s your slant. The sources of the best modernist stuff, if you’re gayly experimenting. . . . And gar- dens! Anything from an estate to a window box would be lovelier if House & Garden were your guide, philosopher and planting director. ... Don’t you want it? Haven’t you got to have it?... Then pin a nice obedient green dollar bill on the coupon and watch it flower up into five whole issues. Special Offer 5 issues of House & Garden $1 These are the next 5 issues of House & Garden November revived, will come crowding into the spotlight, House Planning Do you know what the next great architectural style is going to be—the one about to pepper Long Island and the provinces? .. . It’s all in this issue. Do you know the very latest way to decorate a dining room—simply too modern for words? ... Wait and see... . Could you plan a spring border—or collect Early American lighting fixtures—or grow that last great garden favourite, the lily? If not, don’t sit down and howl. ... It’s all in this issue that’s going to be yours. Christmas House December There’s a brand new influence that is going to affect colour and form in decoration. Something so different you'll gasp when you see it—so lovely you'll want it at once. And that, of course, is the lead article... . After it come pages of all sorts of things that the editor has up his sleeve and next his heart. . . . But the biggest part of the issue consists of Christmas Gifts for the house. Annual Building January Some of us know we’re going to build and have worked ourselves up to the proper climax. This issue will persuade others to do so. A lifetime’s fun lies between the architect’s drawing and the last time we buy a new chair. ... And the way to get the most out of it is, to start with House & Garden’s advice, between covers and by mail. Furniture Number February If you don’t find it in this issue—it isn’t furni- ture, it’s a flop. For all the good new things that have been created since last February, as well as all the best of the good old things that have been manipulated by Richardson Wright, House & Garden’s editor, who knows furniture as you know the way to your own checkbook. .. . Spring Gardening Guide March Here’s the inspiration for a bigger, better, more satisfying garden—here’s the instruction, so detailed, so expert, that it’s truly a guar- antee of success. All the new things the best gardeners are planning—messages from some of them—pictures from others. If you have any questions left—write House & Garden's Information Service . . . Articles on the inside of the house too... And with it all, a sort of sane, healthy peace that stretches out in the sun and thinks life’s pretty good . . . And now Its time for that dollar bill! House & GARDEN, Graybar Bldg., New York City [1 Enclosed find $1.00 for which send me FIVE ISSUES of House & Garden. C] Enclosed find $3.50 for which send me ONE YEAR (12 issues) of House & Garden. I eee eas ee eee ONE Re ee oR eer eee ne eee ee re MNES er aon VM 10-15-27 A dollar is nothing— and think what it may save you in decorating mistakes that you’ll have to 8° on apologizing for—or park in the attic! ... There’s the little mistake-saver, the coupon in the corner «++ And today is just the very day to sign it. —— it

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Te CONDE NAST TRAVEL §ERVICE VOGu; October $$, 1927 YOUR WINTER VACATION VOYAGE 22 tO: 133 DAYS ; RATES FROM $12 PER DAY AROUND THE WORLD RU Vl IG Have you dreamed of the sublime Taj Mahal? Have you longed to see it in its marble glory,bathed in Indian moonlight? Do Hawaii, Japan, China, beckon to you? Then sail with the Be/gen/and, the largest, finest liner ever to circle the globe. West- ward from New York Dec. 14 to 65 cities in 16 countries for 133 days. This cruise operated by the Red Star Line in conjunction with the American Express Co. Apply to Red Star Line, ' No. 1 Broadway; American Express Co., 65 Broadway, N. Y.; or other offices or agencies of either company. e a e TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Does fancy call you to sophisticated Monte Carlo, to the Valley of the Kings, to hallowed Palestine, to historic Greece? Theseare only part of what you see on our Mediterranean cruises by White Star liners Adriatic, sailing Jan. 7, Feb. 25; and the new 19,000-ton Laurentic, Jan. 17, Mar. 6. Each cruise 46 days. Stopovers from ship to ship arranged. Apply to White Star Line TO THE WEST INDIES P erhaps the spirit demands a change of environment, but time is limited. Then these 22-day cruises are made to order for you. There’s a wealth of beauty and sun- shine on our voyages below the Southern Cross. White Star liner Calgaric (ex Orca) sailing Feb. 4 and Mar. 3 to Havana, Panama Canal and the interest centers of the Caribbean. Apply to White Star Line UTMOST OCEAN SERVICE WHITE STAR LINE RED STAR LINE INTERNATIONAL MERCANTILE MARINE COMPANY No. 1 Broadway, New York City, our offices elsewhere or any authorized steamship agent.

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Te CONDE NA$T TRAVEL SERVICE ties. the 4100 Italy. ning PALERMO. PALACE. Placed in admirable surroundings, CORTINA D’AMPEZZO. ft. alt. The first and most exclusive Winter Sports Resort in GRAND HOTEL SAVOY. In the first rank. 180 beds, run- water throughout, lifts, American bar, Dancing hall, Skating rink. THE SIGN OF @ IN ITALY, THE LAND OF EVERLASTING SUNSHINE, STAY AT THE LEADING HOTELS “U-N-I-T: I> wie THE ETERNAL CITY ROME. RUSSIE. Hotel de Luxe. The only hotel in town with a large sunny garden. ROME. HOTEL MAJESTIC. Via Veneto, in the quietest and most fashionable quarter of the city. The ‘“‘Mayfair’’ of Rome. A CITY BY THE SEA GENOA. GRAND HOTEL MIRA- MARE. GRAND’ HOTEL Famous for its harbour view, its modern construction, and the in- stallat’on of all the latest novel- De Luxe. MAGNIFICENT GULF NAPLES. THE GRAND HOTEL. Beautiful situation overlooking the Bay of Naples. and most up-to-date Hotel. CAPRI. THE SYREN ISLAND. Enchanting Winter Resort. Lead- ing and renowned hotels. QUISISANA GRAND HOTEL. TIBERIO PALACE HOTEL. LUMINOUS ISLAND EXCELSIOR Excelsior Hotel offers tourists the comfort and elegance of luxurious refinement. TAORMINA (Sicily) EXCELSIOR GRAND HOTEL. The Excelsior Grand Hotel places its luxurious appointments and magnificent gardens at the dis- posal of its visitors. TAORMINA. CASTELLO A MARE. First class. Unique situation, fac- ing south. SYRACUSE HOTEL VILLA POLITI. Near the celebrated ruins. A few steps from the ancient theatre. Marvellous garden in the delight- ful ‘“‘Latonia’’. Absolutely modern in its elegant furnishing, and the most novel installations. THE QUEEN OF THE GRAND (Sicily) DOLOMITES The newest HOTEL GRAND g HOSPITALITY DORLAND One of the Subtler Social Distinctions..... Taking The Cunard Liverpool Route To London It’s the regular thing with those persons whose standing has that “from generation unto generation” assurance. They prefer the quiet exclusiveness of the Cunard Liverpool ships. They know that in the salons... as restful and well decorated as their own drawing rooms... they meet people who might be their own guests. They know that the food is a delight to the epicure ... a la carte, at no extra cost... because it’s Cunard. With that sense of values which distinguishes them, they know these are first class ships . . . and that their rates are moderate. And finally they know the pleasure of motoring from Liverpool through rural England... the Dukeries... Cathedrals . . . Shakspere . . . Oxford... down to London. { The CUNARD LIVERPOOL SERVICE ships, Carinthia, Franconia, Laconia, Samaria, Scythia, sail from New York every Saturday, fortnightly, from Boston— the only weekly first class service to Liverpool CUNARD LINE See Your Local Agent 1840 - EIGHTY * SEVEN * YEARS * OF * SERVICE ° 1927 reo TRAVELER, Thousands of Americans have enjoyed the famous Clark’s Cruises to foreign lands “SAFE TRAVEL FUNDS’ Says Frank C. Clark of Clark’s Cruises “My personal experienc with A-B-A Certified Traveles Cheques,” says Mr. Clark, “ha always been so favorable inal parts of the world that we recom mend them to all our patrons, “TI have found them toh thoroughly safe and convenies travel funds. “As the official traveler cheques of the American Bank. ers Association they are cashabl everywhere at favorable ralts Because they are certified they are acceptable for U.S, Custom duties.” A-B-A Cheques are certified by) Bankers Trust Company, Ner e York, Agents for the issuing | banks, and are the only author. | ized travel cheques of the Amer ican Bankers Association. at If going abroad, buy ABA Cop FREE: y ba your local bank and get y" complimentary copy of Harry Franck's involualt | book, “All About Going Abroad,” sold in 0" Re stores for $1.00. E AMERICAN BANKERS ASSOCIATIOT” A:B-A ga¢ CHEQUE f Ba TRAVEL tTiaiid: MONEY on BANKERS TRUST COMPANY, NEW! Agents for the issuing banks VOGymoct: — Buy Them at Your Bank i Gy arr callin Ench garde on tk Fares; cats ; folloy Marv age-g Cont grou

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Bank | “| Straight to the Heart of the East... North Africa f New 4 ssuing | ‘uh From the Sapphire Mediterranean to the Palm Fringed Sahara . . . a New Winter Playground Amer § new a old sorceries of the east... haunting exotic fragrances... weird cluding all expenses... Mediterranean crossing... hotels...private automobile vs a ¥ _—e music . . . the fierce, wild throb of the tom-toms! .». $1750. cvo Of course, shorter trips, too... perhaps a 10-day tour for $200. gardens, towers toe shconr a = ee PR ae ma _ First—six enchanting days crossing the Atlantic... all the way, the sparkling, on the billowing tents... the pes ‘ oe sapere rn petra ni joyous Parisian atmosphere . . . that perfect French cuisine and service ...on the Eien Md ge one pping \ de luxe French Liners, Ile de France, Paris or France... calling first at Plymouth, whinenahe see rich a Timimoun ror Marrakech ...Mames of utter romance! Engla nd we then Le Havre de Paris. +9 Orthe splendid One-Class Cabin liners masa oe eogde delight linked together with the modern magic of swift motor sailing direct to Havre ... where there is no troublesome transferring to ideo 2 les of smooth roads . . . with special twelve-wheeled Renaults to _ tenders. Step off the gangplank...to a waiting boat train...three hours to Paris. the desert trails. And the forty-one famous Transatlantique hotels... | Overnight the Riviera. o~ A day across the Mediterranean...the mosques and : moe See sag — in the very midst of minarets of North Africa... atthe other end of . ndours... where you join the smart “the longest gangplank in the world”. e+» Write UBS pontinental throng in its favourite winter play- for illustrated brochures on Morocco, Algeria NEY + 6% 57 days...a de luxe itinerary... in- or Tunisia...and travel first in their pages. yous r RR INFORMATION FROM ANY FRENCH LINE AGENT OR TOURIST OFFICE, OR WRITE DIRECT TO 19 STATE STREET, NEW YORK CITY Se wo

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' Fe CONDE NAST TRAVEE SERVICE

Luxury Cruises STINDIES Panama Canal rat

N the short space of 16 days, you visit the most interest- ing islands of the West Indies and the Bermudas—in 4 weeks, 9 islands, Panama and the mainland of South America. You cruise over tropical seas on a ship of luxurious comfort. Ss. S. VEENDAM This magnificent oil-burning turbine steamer; is especially designed for tropical cruis- ing. All accommodations de-luxe in every detail; direct ventilation; broad, cool decks. 16 “DAY CRUISES: JANUARY 28 ; MARCH 17, 1928 Visiting Bermuda, Jamaica, Havana, and Nassau in the Bahamas. Rates $230 and up. va 28-DAY CRUISE: FEBRUARY 15, 1928 Visiting Havana, Jamaica, Panama, Curacao,La Guayraand Caracas (Venezuela) Trini- dad, Barbados, Martinique, St. Thomas, Porto Rico, and Bermuda. Rates $385 and up. Cruise fares include comprehensive shore excursions, carefully arranged and carried out by the Frank Tourist Company. For choice selection of accommodations, make reservations now. Illustrated booklet “6”, with full details, sent on request. HOLLAND-AMERICA LINE 21-24 State Street, New York Branch Offices and Agents in all principal Cities “sere, and FRANK TOURIST CO.., 542 Fifth Avenue, New York an og . Ch ere 18 always ; t something to do’ | at the — | BROADMOOR one of four heavenly seasons at The yor—the hotel famed for combining metropolitan luxury with the Rocky Moun- #! Gloriously golden days heighten the bliss ‘perfect golf, alluring bridle paths, and view- filled motoring. Indoors, you find every comfort imaginable. Quickly reached from anywhere in America.

COLORADO SPRINGS.

COURSES

Rent or buy a furnished cottage in

Pinehurst, N. C., the golfer’s paradise~

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5 N J.

—_ and outdoor sports ~ Carolina Hotel opens October 31~Write for illustrated booklet to General Office, Pinehurst, N, C, pinehurst

ONToVvVA —_ NORTH CAROLINA

THE CENTER OF

%& FOUR DONALD

SPORT

The CLIFT AT SAN FRANCISCO Offering a traditionally high standard of excellence few ~ fi hotels maintain, yet at rates that are no higher. VOGUE'S BOOK OF ETIQUETTE by the Editors of Vogue, treats of social conven- tions with a distinction and charm that no other book on the subject may even claim to possess.

If you plan to build House & Garden has recently published a collection of the loveliest houses that appeared in the last five years of the magazine. House & Garden's You will be glad to own this book, which pro- nounces with the author- ity of Vogue's long Second Book of Houses experience as the arbiter has 192 pages, 600 illustra- | of social contacts. tions . . . a wealth of mate |} rial that is all practical, all E:

On sale at good bookstores, or by mail; beautiful. $4.20, postpaid. q $4 postpaid. ' ' f HovuseE & GARDEN § Greenwich V O G U E Connecticut GREENWICH CONNECTICUT q —— a _— $$“ <7 Se aT caw tels of Distinction | fpCw®N O O Ls aie / ty » | \\ 4 yy a, Vey ef i PP sg ti ANS NEW YORK

AND BOSTON ¥ 4 Artuur L. Race ff \ MANAGING DIRECTOR /

THE PLAZA Freo Sterry Present

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Ov u on IT —_ boas Je oh a ie eT ee oa Sa a aa ea peter 15, 1927 UDDHIST temples and Shinto shrines. Swinging lanterns... incense rising to the stars... sacred sake in a lacquered cup. It’s Japan! The mystic, inscrutable Orient... all that you dreamed it to be! You fill ggg oe thecolorand ife...all the tiny spaces in your trunk with exquisite things bought for a song... and with a smile. Porcelains and prints; kimonos and curios! Countless little scenes and episodes, too... such pleasant memories to share with others. ACanadian Pacific Empress will carry you there. The Empress of Canada... Empressof Asia... Empress of Russia . . . luxurious floating hotels, the choice of the travelwise! The largest and fastest ships on the Pacific .. . they sail frequently from Vancouver via Victoria. 10 days to Japan...then to Shanghai and Hong Kong, the crossroads of the East. And on to Manila . .-a brilliant patchwork of mediaeval moats, monasteries and palaces, of languorous beauty under a tropical sun. But let our fascinating booklets tell you all about it! Palatial Empress Liners Cross the Pacific in 10 Days Offices in all large cities including New York . s ennensoes--.---.....-2....344 Madison Ave. — Sieset nel 675 Market St. ete cieaile Coane 71 East Jackson Montreal s-msen.......00-.....---..141 St. James St. Always . ° carr Pacifi y y Canadian SOR ’ q ¢ GOO A every principal gateway of travel, the world over, Americans will always find a courier of the American Express Company extending The Helpful Hand Great Service You will know him at once. He will know you by the color of your Travelers Cheques. If they are sky-blue and bear the name of American Express he is yours to command. You will find him intelligent, resourceful; and of a service endless in variety. It is this individual Personal Service to the American travelers in foreign lands, quite as much as their money safety, their usableness and their recognized international money value, that for more than 36 years has given American Express Travelers Cheques their world- supremacy. Issued in $10, $20, $50, and $100 denominations—bound ina small, handy wallet—and cost only 75c for each $100. FOR SALE AT 22,000 BANKS, AMERICAN EXPRESS AND AMERICAN RAILWAY EXPRESS OFFICES American Express Travelers Cheques Secure your steamship tickets, hotel reservations and itineraries; ¢ Express Traveler's Cheques a satel or plan your cruise or tour through the American Express Travel Department ZO for BOF cAlso Obtainable in Canada Why WWetelererces Twenty-one excellent reasons in every pack- age. The twen- ty-first: they’re always fresh, wrapped in heavy foil +--+: Nit INRA BB) ORG | {IGARE TTES (Mild as May) ea Always fresh— Wrapped in heavy foil Created by PHILIP MORRIS & CO., Led., Ince * 511 Fifth Ave., New York, N. Y.

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Antiques SHOP ATOP THE TEXTILE BUILDING. New York’s most original antique shop, fine old American nieces & decorative objects. Rare importations & hand- woven fabrics. Colonial Cottage Inc., 295-5th Av. on roof Art Needlework WINGENDORFF, 118 E. 59th St., N. Y. C. Mono- grams made to order for Trousseaux linens, Heraldics are a specialty. Stamping, hand & machine hemstitch- ing, picoting, mosaic & hand hemming. Regent 7418 OGA DRESSES. Russian Refugee Workshop, 49 West 57th St., N. Y. Ladies’ & Children’s dresses hand-emb. & painted by workers of Russian nobility. Patronized by leaders of Society, Stage & Screen. Plaza 2942 DESIGNER, CREATOR, Mme. Vitrano. Expert on embroidered dresses & underthings. Originator of novelty needlework. Will call or receive you at 337—83rd St., Bklyn, N. Y. Tel. Shore Road 2720 Auction Bridge LILLIAN SHERMAN RICE, 105 W. 55th St., N.Y. Author of ‘“‘Bridge In A Nutshell’’ (Price $1.00). Concentration & Inferences in Contract & Auction ridge a specialty. Course by mail $5.00. Circle 8075 SHEPARD’S STUDIO, INC., 20 W. 54th St., N.Y. College of Auction Bridge. Expert personal instruc- tion, individuals or classes, beginners or advanced players. Special course by mail. Tel. Circle 10041 BRIDGE SCORE PADS, 5% x 8%. Your name and street address on each sheet. Perforated at top in such a way that total scores may be re- tained. Sheets ruled for five names above per- foration and for three rubbers below. Seventy sheets per pad, 50c each. Six for $2.50, postpaid. Check should accompany order. Address communications to The Specialty Shop, Cherry Valley, New York ELIZABETH HOTCHKISS—15 West 8th St., New York City. Expert instruction in Auction Bridge, beginners or advanced players. At your home or above address. Telephone Stuyvesant 8214 Babies’ Things CHARMINGCLOTHESforCHARMINGCHILDREN inf. to 4 yrs. Best workmanship & materials. Spec. prices on layettes, Oct. and Nov. No Catalog. Reference. On approval. Ideal Baby & Gift Shop, Roanoke, Va. “BYELO-BABY” WHITE WOOL EIDERDOWN Buntings and Carriage Robes. Save money. Buy direct from maker. Booklet on request. Gertrude A. Barnes, 60 Samoset Avenue, Quincy, Massachusetts Beads, Beaded Bags & Bags AN UNUSUAL SHOP for the repairing, framing and remodeling of high grade bags of every descrip- tion. Catalog on request. French purses a specialty. A. L. Workman, 1 West 34th Street, New York City Ladies’ Hand Bags. Exclusive Models Made to Order in Aubusson tapestry, Needlepoint, Petit Point & Beaded bags. Kecoverings a spec. Send for catalog. Wm. Nibur, 2432 Bway—437 & 669 Mad. Ave., N.Y. BEADED BAGS & DRESSES REPAIRED. Bags mounted & lined. Wonderful ass’tm’t frames. Dresses shortened & repaired. Workmanship guar. Mail orders. ist. 2l yrs. Royal Art Emb. Co., 38 W. 34th St., N.Y. BEADS, PANSY JEWELS also GLASS RINGS for shade pulls. Send 5c for 40 page bead book with pictures, prices and directions. Beaded Bags Repaired. Looms. Joe Michel, Dept. A, 48 W. 48th St., N. Y. JEWELED, FABRIC & LEATHER HAND BAGS. Novelty imports; antique brocades. Marquassite em- bellishments. Beaded, Aubusson, Needle & Petit- point. Repairing. Irene Penn, 562 Mad. Ave., N. Y. Beauty Culture Face Lifting done without surgery by the magic face lifter. Remove crow’s-feet, lines, double chin re- store youthful contour. Easily adjusted. Done in privacy of home. Sadie Macdonald, 630-5th Ave., N. Y. Eyebrows & Lashes Beautified Lastingly. Dark- ened & perfected with Coloura. Lasts for weeks— won’t wash off. $1.20 postpaid; treatment 50c at Spiro’s, 26 W. 38th St. & 34 W. 46th St., N. Y. MME. JULIAN’S HAIR DESTROYER eradicates all superfiuous hair (with follicle). No _ elec- tricity or poison. Established 1869. Address Mme. Julian, 34 West 51st Street, New York City The TRICHG System of treatment for the safe & sure removal of superfluous hair was awarded “Grand Prix’’ at Paris Exposition, October 20th 1925. The ‘Tricho System is available in all principal cities in the United States, Canada & England. Send for free booklet No. 7 and ask for the address of the nearest Tricho office in your city. Tricho, 270 Madison Avenue, New York City EULAV the new BEAUTY MARVEL, is all inclu- sive. Removes wrinkles, droopings; cleanses, nour- ishes and gives beautiful finish to skin. $2.00 Trial jar 50c. By mail. Petrzea, 107 West 25th St., N. Y. MULTIPLE ELECTROLYSIS—Mary FE lizabeth Scollan. Personal Service only. Free booklet. Ad- dress 358 Fifth Avenue, entrance on_ 34th Street, Room 1205, New York City. Telenhone Wisconsin 7889 OM TT SHOPPERS’ AND BUYERS’ GUIDE Advertising rates: 4 lines Buyers’ Guide of Vogue, 1928 Graybar A reference directory of uniform advertisements classified for the convenience of the reader (25 words)—three months, months, $170.00, payable with order. Eight or twelve lines pro rata. on request.) Published twice a month. Forms close 5th of month preceding for 15th of month number, 20th of second month preceding for Ist of month number. Address: The Shoppers’ & $50.00; six months, $95.00; twelve (Monthly payment rates Building, Lexington at 43rd, New York. Beauty Culture—Cont. MME. THEA CREATOR OF BEAUTY. Rejuvenate and beautify your skin by using my remarkable facial paste. Price $2.00 per jar. Booklet on request. Suite 1107-V 1 West 47th Street, New York City NEW FACES FOR OLD—no surgery, no pain; sag- ging muscles and signs of age relieved. Special H_me Treatment Kit with simple instructions $10. Kora M. Lublin, DPS, 500-5th Avenue, New York Bed Quilts & Blankets WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS, Chaise covers, bedspreads, bath robes, pillows and hand-quilted things on display at Mrs. A. S. Guggen- heimer’s Lingerie Salon, 558 Madison Ave., N. Y. Bon Voyage & Gift Baskets MARTIN’S FRUIT SHOP. Fruit baskets of the better kind artistically arranged by experts, fruits all carefully selected $6-$10-$15-$25. Ideal gifts for all occasions. Fancy baskets of assorted nuts, etc., beautifully arranged $6-$10-$15. Specialists in fresh Russian Caviar. Mail orders carefully filled. Est. 1895. Phone Schuyler 8783. Columbus Avenue at 86th Street, New York City BLUE BASKETS & BLUE TINS—Each individual- ly & differently filled. A variety of good things to eat. Telephone & telegraph orders given attention. Alice H. Marks, 19 E, 52nd St., N. Y. Plaza 7299 Boudoir Accessories Bed Things of Distinction. Charming Boudoir Deco- rations. Comforters, Blankets, Bed Spreads, etc. Moderately priced. Write for illustrated portfolio. Carlin Comforts, Inc., 528 Madison Avenue, N,. Y. Children’s & Misses’ Things THE CHILDREN’S SHOP, INC., MODELS from original sketches. 425 Madison Avenue, New York City. Models for girls to sixteen years, for boys to six years, Telephone Murray Hill 0779 NANA LTD., 24 EAST 66th STREET, New York City. Infants’ and children’s Dresses, Suits, Coats and Hats made to fit individual order from our original models, from infancy to 14 years Chintzes The Chintz Shop, 431 Madison Ave., N. Y.C. Every- thing in Chintz, Linen, Cretonne. 4914 Maryl’d Ave., St. Louis, Mo.; 3718 B’way, Kansas City, Mo., 1983 Madison Rd., Cincin., O. ; 114 So. 20th St., Phila. Christmas Cards PERSONAL ENGRAVED CHRISTMAS CARDS exclusive designs, magnificent assortment, delivered enywhere. Send for samples at once. Everett Waddey Company, 5 South 11th St., Richmond, Va. CHRISTMAS CARDS From Your Own Pictures or negatives (any size), attractively re- produced on rich vellum. Remember your friends at Christmas time with a _ picture of your home, your children or any_ other suitable subject. We adapt to your individual card any photograph or negative that you may wish to use. You may _ choose from our selection of sentiments, or write your own and have it reproduced in_ our hand-made type or your own writing. Prices are no higher than for ordinary cards. Write today for samples and simple directions for ordering. Address your communications to the Artcraft Company, Room 228 West Fifth Street, St. Paul, Minnesota Cleaning & Dyeing KNICKERBOCKER Cleaning & Dyeing Company. High class cleaners and dyers. Main office 402 East 3lst Street, New York City. Branch offices in New York, New Rochelle, Greenwich and White Plains Corsets and Brassiéres MME, S. SCHWARTZ—Now 36 West 57th Street, New York, formerly 11 Last 47th Street, New York. Custom made and all novelties in Corsets for the Woman of Fashion. Write for information GOSSARD CORSET FITTING Parlor—RETAIL 601 Mad. Ave., at 57th St., N. Y. Fitted by Gossard Corsetiére at shop or residence. Corsets to order. Mail orders by measurement solicited. Regent 48438 MME. CLAFF SHOULE, CORSETIERe, Corselettes and Corsets for the present mode, elso Brassiéres -and Negligees. 12 East 48*h Street, New York City, Tel. Murray Hill 1326 CORSET HOSPITAL. Every description of corset and brassiére copied. Made-to-order—remodelel, cleaned. Mail corsets for estimate. Central Corset Hospital, 500 Fifth Ave., N, Y. C. Telephone Longacre 8173 EMMA E. GOODWIN, INC., Corset Specialist, New models that straighten curved backs, reducing pro- trusions at dianhragm—marvels of corset engineer- ing. Illus. on request, 13 E. 37th St., N.Y. Cal. 9393 Corsets and: Brassiéres—Cont. NO STRAP! FEN-LIN BRASSIERE. Evening, day and sport wear. At all leading New York stores. Write for Style and Price List. Address communications to 587 Fifth Avenue, New York City A SHOP OF DEPENDABLE CORSET Specialties. Combinations with slenderizing lines. Models for every type (not one for all) Five to twenty-five dollars. Van Orden, 379 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Cal. 9316 Damages onClothing MadeInvisible MOTH-HOLES. Tears. Burns on garments made invisible by reweaving. Shine on clothing perma- nently removed. Guarantee Damage Weaving Co., 146-Fifth Ave., bet. 19th & 20th Sts., N. Y. C. Dancing DEWEY. Modern dance aud authority. Private or class lessons. By ap- pointment. Address 267 Madison Avenue, New York City, New York. Telephone Caledonia 6962 THE MURIEL PARKER STUDIO. Do you dance SHELTON expert well? Do you play bridge? Society asks this of you. Let me teach you. Address 57 West 46th Street, New York City. Telephone Bryant 4823 Delicacies MARY and MARTHA’S FRUIT CAKES. Delicious. Aged and mellowed with brandy. In tins gayly wrapped. In one, two, and five pound sizes. $1.50 per pound, parcel post prepaid. Palmyra, N. J. Entertainment CHILDREN’S ENTERTAINMENT BUREAU Magicians—Trained Animals—Games, Punch & Judy —Everything for Children’s Parties. Address 108 East 57th Street, New York. Telephone Plaza 4535 Fancy Dress & Costumes PRIZE WINNING COSTUMES of originality and distinction. For rent or sale. To order or from stock, New rork’s Smartest Costumers. Bayer- Schumacher, 67-69 W. 46th St., N. Y. Bryant 1831 Flesh Reducing Guaranteed Course—PHILA. JACK O’BRIEN System. Men & Women. Honest, perm. 20 treatments $50. Up- town, 1658 Bway (51st St.) Circle 0465. Downtown, 154 Nassau St. Rm. 210 Tribune Bldg. Beekman 9125 Furs $95 TO REMODEL and reline Hudson seal coats, like new. Choice of all the latest styles. Finest workmanship. Richard Koppen formerly with Gunther. West 45th Street, N. Y. Tel. Bryant 33638 ALASKAN CHOICE RAW FURS. Old_ Ivory Beads. Indian Curios. Genuine Willow Root Fancy Baskets. From the Lair of Quality. Vance hk. McDonald, Fairbanks, Alaska AT $85. A “COAT of YESTERDAY” remodeled & re- lined into newest creation. Smart new Coats to order, Skilled workmanship. Henry M. Sureck, Room 1701, 101 West 37th Street, N. Y., Wisc. 2148 EXPERT FUR REMODELING & REPAIRING. Furs smartly designed, fine workmanship, reasonably priced. Satisfaction guar. Est. 1886. Hirshfeld Fur Co., Inc. Write or call. 2828 Broadway, N. Y. Academy 3655 Gowns & Blouses Made to Order THE MISSES CURRAN vill and evening gowns and blouses for all occasions and also do remodeling at _ reasonable _ prices. 134 Lexington Ave, (29th St.). N. Y. Mad. Sq. 8188 MME. TARMA makes dresses of unusual charm to suit your individual taste, best materials, reasonably priced. Remodeled to look new, your materials ac- cepted, 807 Madison Ave., N. Y. C, Rhinelander 4775 Gowns & Wearing Apparel Bought MME. NAFTAL PAYS HIGHEST CASH VALUE for your slightly used or misfit Gowns, Suits, Street and Evening Dresses. Also Furs, Diamonds, Jewelry, Silverware, Furniture, Rugs, Draperies, etc. Telephone, Bryant 0670—for an appointment. Special attention given to out-of-town patrons. Established over thirty years. Write or call Mme. Naftal, 69 West 45th Street, N. Y. City Tel. BRYANT 1376—MME. FURMAN PAYS CASH. Full value Guaranteed for Slightly Used Gowns, Suits, Furs, Ete. Diamonds, Jewelry, Silver- ware. No Mail Orders. 103 West 47th Street, N. Y. MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 0670, pays highest eash value for fine misfit or slightly used evening & Street frocks, furs, diamonds, jewelry, silverware. Established over 30 years. 69 West 45th St.. N. Y. MME. FURMAN (Society’s Outlet Shop) Pays Cash for Fine Slightly Used Evening & Street Gowns. Suits, Wraps, Coats, Furs, etc. Also Diamonds, Jewelry, Silverware, Art Objects, Antiques, Oil Paintings. Tel. BRYANT 1376—PAY CASH, Highest Prices. For Sligh‘ly Used Wearing Apparel, Jewelry, Silver- ware. Full Value Guar. Transactions Confidential. . make you street mail orders. Mme. Furman, 103 W. 47th, N ~Ss Se is TZ > Lor j (is YZ mS: Eee: Frocks and Wraps Gowns Remodeled, Made to Order i Exclusive Frocks smartly designed, fine mew, Mitt Mail orders a specialty. Mme. Nobele, 56 Wet, St., N. ¥. Circle 9448, Formerly 18 W. oon BEADED, SPANGLED & all ‘ & remodeled into latest styles by esos feud Aronoff (form. with Milgrim) Mail orders ree, ne attention. 333-5th Ave. (opp, Waldorf) Ash, om Gowns Remodeled “THE MENDING SHOP” Gowns, Tailored Sui Remodeled up-to-date. Shop Blou Refitted. Miss H. Redding Coughlin, nea St., N. Y. No branches. Hil Phone 5062 Mur, Kill Hair Bobbing THE ROBERT TEMPER INSTITUTE. Themaesiny hair bobbing where individuality is created to suit th personality, 17. 45thSt., N.Y. Tel. Vanderbilt ee 1320 Chestnut St., Phila., Pa, ‘Tel. Pennybacker (i Hair Coloring WHY HAVE GREY OR FADED HAIR? ’ Henna. Composed pulverized Henna; Hebe a less. Will not rub off. 14 shades. Shop applications Postpaid $1.60. B. Paul, 21 West 39th St., N, Y, Grey Hair Restored to Natural Color. Hair ruin) by unskilled dye operators corrected. Scientific Say Treatments given. Marcel & Permanent Waving, Br- ant 6286, Mary Greene, 53 West 48th St., N. Y, Hair & Scalp Treatments ANNA S. BURKE—Hair & Scalp Specialist, Ow 20 yrs. on 5th Ave. Improved Swedish Method, Mos beneficial for headaches and_ over-wrought nerves WA LDEYER & BETTS—Swedish Scalp Specialists— Est. 1896: Sole manufacturers of W & B Swedish Hair Powder and other W & B Preparations. 665-5th Ave, N. Y. Tel. Plaza 2812—Paris—30 Rue Desrenaudes Hats MLLE. LEE designs and copies the latest modes to suit type and personality. Large head size give special attention. Remodeling. 781 Lexington Avenue, at 61st Street, N. Y. Tel. Regent gui! MITZI CHAPEAU X—Original Designers. All hats fitted to the head. French hat copying and r- modeling at reasonable prices. Also mail ders. Address 141 East 61st St., New York City AUTHENTIC COPIES OF FRENCH HATS rai to wear $15.00 up. Charming and distinctive Has for the Smart Matron a snecialty, All head sizes. Irene Franks, 18 West 49th St., New York. Bryant iti Hats Remodeled REMODELER OF HATS “‘A Hat of Yesterday" —redesigned into a ‘‘last word” creation. Smart nes Hats to order. Mail Orders a_ specialty. Prics reasonable. Irene Franks, 18 West 49th St., N. 1. Hemstitching, Plaiting, Buttons Hemstitching, Plaiting, Dry Cleaning. Button covered from customer’s own material. Plaiting in all styles, also Hemstitching, Dyeing to match sam- ples. Mail Order. Sadleir, 19 West 34th St., NYC Hosiery Repaired SPECIALIST IN REPAIRING French Sheet Hose. Runs and Pull ‘Threads repaired invisibly by the ‘“‘Blakeman Process”. Charges 50c to a8 Lenox Hosiery Repair Service, 38 W. 48th St., N.t SAVE YOUR HOSE—HAMPDEN PROCESS vit repair all runs and _ pull threads invisibly — forty-eight hours. Charges 50c. Address bag) Hosiery Repair Shoppe, 122 Fifth Avenue, 4. * EXPERTS REPAIR INVISIBLY runsandpullthve in all makes of silk stockings. Charges 50c-#l.” 424 Madison Avenue (Cor 49th Street), Interior Decorators & Decoratws Marie Salet-Geutens 4. Mary Hom Hynes at interested in your problems— and practical equipment. Will shop with os clients, 15 West 55th Street, New 10 =. CURTAINS, DRAPERIES, BEDSPREADS, tn niture, Antiques. Made to order; also oo 1% Out-of-town clients invited. Shelton Hill 2901 East 42nd Street, New York. Murray HOME The DISTINCTIVE ADDITION TO vot cae Hand-carved furniture, tapestries, _—_ el point, carved ivories, old brasses. Gitte ond at NL Perfumes, antique jewelry. Purri, 26 E. “ 522-5th Ave., at 44th St., N. Y. Tel. Vanderbilt 25%) Mail orders filled. York Hosiery Repair Vs a : home decoration Jewelry & Precious Stones . JEWELS REMOUNTED—Gens of yesteria) Oe formed. Modern artistic settings ; quality rie ship unexcelled. Moderate charges. Jewett xT. FrankC. Hutchinson, 344 Madison Ave. at e- TRABERT and HOEFFER, INCORPOR a Jewels. Brokers and Authorized Appraiser sult purchased from estates and private eo ye 506, Guaranty Trust Bldg., §22-5th -ouel DIAMONDS, JEWELRY AND SILVER F Hear Estates appraised. References gladly 8°70" yh Meyer, 527-5th Avenue, South East Cornel osc Street, New York City. Telephone Vanderbilt Oct Jewel cAsH Silver, gh. . Wes SARA Real la praisin needlew J. TU makes | under & fit. LAUR! rials ¥ suits, | Est. BERT! and b fxclus period BERT Jayette Write Berthe M CASH housel prices. Norwa PATT tions, attent 303 1. $C gracel guara 590 J Myr indiv bring 36 E MAR Perm The wave “Bee Pern Paul Ave, HA\ Chat ean 33 E Mis: serv’ flow men

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Sonably pricey ® Workmanship 56 West 50th 8 W. 49th § Gowns repairs pert designer ers ree, Drom rf) Ash, 295 d S and Gow 17 EB. 48th 52 Mur, Hil Themaestroiy ated to suit thy anderbilt 189) inybacker 0\¢) R? B. Pair lerbs; Ham, applications 8t., N.Y, Hair ruin cientific Scalp Waving. Br. 1 St, N.Y. vents eclalist, Over Method. Most lught nerves, nderbilt 2536 Specialists— Swedish Hair 665-5th Ave, Desrenaudes latest modes, fF 1d size given Lexington Regent 306: rs. All hats ng and re 0 mail or + York City HATS ready inctive Hats head sizes Bryant lit Yesterday" Smart ner ulty. Prices St, N.Y. uttons }. Buttons Plaiting in match sat St., N.Y.C rch Sheer 1 invisibly c to $1.00 St., NY pull threads 0c-$1.00. Company, F N.Y. 6 oration dynes alt decoration | th or fot rork City DS, Fur iterations. 10S, Till 2907 =~ = Ss = m

geben 15, 1927 2 ?, Jewelry, Silverware, Antiques Bo’t OR JEWELRY, Diamonds. Gems. Gold, CASH F w or broken. Prices now exceptionally Silver, Mr ablished over 40 years. Mme. Naftal, r Sy 45th St. New York. Tel. Bryant 0670 Laces & Linens 94 East 54th Street, New York, SARA is. mending, remodeling and ap- Real la "Laces for weddings and trousseaux. Art ra ork materials. Hand embroidery and stamping ni Ladies’ Tailors 97 West 46th Street. New York era $65.00 which cannot be duplicated Pp jer $125 00, Quality & material faultless in make 4 New models now ready. Furs remodeled ’g, Parisian models and imported ma‘e- LAURIN Sor inspection. Latest note in tailored Se coats dresses & sportsw ar: reasonable prices, sults sda. ig West 46th St., N. ¥. Tel. Bryant 8324 Maternity Apparel MAY’S MATERNITY CORSET girdle and brassiéres. Simple, practical, lightweight. Exclusive and invisible expansion, A trying period rendered safe, comfortable, —_ unnoticed. BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CRESSES and layettes, Exclusive models at reasonable prices, Write for Portfolio 14, free under plain envelope. Rerthe May, 10 Kast 46th Street, New York City Monograms and Woven Names SH’s WOVEN NAMES for marking clothing, rns & hotel linens, ete. Write for styles and prices. J. & J. Cash, Incorporated, 7th St., So. Norwalk, Conn., Belleville, Ont., Los Angeles, Cal. BERTHE Patterns PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE from illustra- tions, description of model. Fit guaranteed. Special attention to mail orders. Mrs. W_ 8. Weisz, 393 Fifth Avenue, corner 31st St., New York Permanent Hair Wave |. SCHAEFFER, INCORPORATED, famous for a graceful Permanent Wave, without Kink or Frizz; guarantees no discoloration to white or grey hair. 590 Fifth Avenue at 48th St., N. Y. Bryant 7615 My reputation is founded on the famous ‘‘Halloh’s”’ individual permanent wave and haircut which instantly bring out a Wealth of unsuspected beauty. John Halloh, 36 E. 48th Si, N. Y. C. Vanderbilt 5241 or 7831 MARIO AND FREDERICK, INCORPORATED Permanent Wave Specialists. Personal attention. The result being the duplicate of a large natural wave. 17 East 48th St., N. Y. Vanderdilt 6897 “Beauty is Yours’. A bob, facial, manicure, shampoo, Permanent Wave at the beautiful, modern salon of Paul of Fifth Ave. makes you beautiful. 595-5th Ave, (N. E. Cor. 48th) N. Y. Mur. Hill 4985-6417 HAVE YOUR NEXT PERMANENT WAVE at the Chatham Hotel. A perfect marcel by an expert that can be finger waved. Address A. C. Carlsen, 33 East 48th Strect, New York City. Vanderbilt 4800 Personal Service Miss Fanshawe, 685 Madison Ave., N. Y. Exclusive service to selected clientele; shopping, chaperons, flowers, catering, servants, secretarial work, entertain- ment, weddings, residences opened & closed. Reg. 1804 Shoes and Custom Shoes SHOECRAFT SHOP ‘‘fitting the narrow heel” in sizes 1-10 AAAA to EK. French and English models in street and evening footwear. Send for Catalog VS. Fit Guaranteed. 714-5th Ave., New York SHORT VAMP SHOES (Trade Mark) from stock . to order. First French Boot Shop in America. stablished 1887. A visit will convince you. William Kernstein, 6 West 37th Street, New York. Booklet BEST GRADE CUSTOM SHOES, moceratel — i $10 to $20. Made to order our prt tae roe sold from stoes at reduction. Columbia Shoe Shop, 972 Lexington Ave. (71st St.) N. Y. CG Shopping Commissions —— V. STOVEL of the Asscciated Purchasing Heo s, New York, shcps for or with you in os ling stores without charge. Free Shoppers Mage- ine, 366 Fifth Avenue, N.Y. el. Wisconsin 3288 heen = BOOTH DARLING. Purchasing r * ccompanying out-of-town patrons. No — References. Chaperoning. Telephone Tra- agar 6450. 155 West 78th Street, New York City MR : “gd Cc. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopper, terior De With you or send anything to you. In- Teleph ecorating. Send for Magazine. Services free. one Wisconsin 0885. 366 Fifth Avenue, N. Y. GE me eETTE DUNBAR EVANS will keep you in Ktatis, | 7 -Y.’s modes + Will shop for or with you Hotel si — decorating. — Fashion magazine an Remo, Central Park West. Endicott 6700 “ Peee eu THINGS | SEE”—Write for Free with € with list of bargains. Shops free for or Helen 7 Saving time sand money. Address » Richards, 452-5th Ave., New York AUD ona oid MCALLISTER “fers her experience with you 4; to you Sratis; shopping for you or prathg Mla hest New York shops. 551 Fifth » New York. ‘Telephone, Murray Ifill 8179 Your Way a pping Made Easier, We know the economical Rnanish clienicle. ‘Airs. Lewis Minden erate.

‘ , Ps is Mi 2 » Asso, Purchasing Agent 8, 266 th kee y wis 1683 bo Y . ‘ OU KNOW WHAT TO WEAR and Where To Buy It? ¢ 4 an art, Shope tc Mrs. Wilson who has made shopping for or wi ; M wor or with customers fr f charge. ts. L. A, Wilson, 373—5th Ave., N. ¥. ‘Cal. 9036 BETTY PETERS wi TERS will purchase the beautiful thi difficult to find, Men's, Women’s clothing & Brome Social Etiquette & Counselling | CHARM, POISE & PERSONALITY developed. Self- consciousness overcome. Correct social procedure & conversation taught personally & by mail. Mlle. Louise, Park Central Hotel, 56th & 7th Ave., N. Y. Cir. 8000 1 TEACH YOU TO DRESS YOUR PERSONALITY and type. Authoritative information on dress given for all occasions. Address Madame Aimée, 600 West End Avenue, New York City. Telephone Schuyler 5231 Sports Wear MARTHA WEST offers to the smart woman unusual service in Knitted sportswear. Designing styles and color combinations for larger sizes and special require- ments. Martha West,838 Madison Ave.,N. Y. Rhine. 1008 Stationery and Engraving EXCLUSIVE PERSONAL STATIONERY :—(Raised letters—engraved effect.) Heavy vellum paper. Ideal gift. 200 single sheets 6% x 5% (100 lettered & 100 plain) & 100 envelopes or 100 folded sheets & 100 envelopes with name & address on top center of sheets & on flap of envelopes for $2.00. Colors of paper:—White, Grey, Bisque, Orchid, Blue, Colors of inks:—Black, Blue. Grey, Green, Purple, Brown, (Gold & Silver 10% extra). Send check, money order, or currency. West of Miss. add 10%. Wallace Brown Inc., Dept 103, 225-5th Ave., N. Y. Write for Free Personal Engraved Xmas Card Folio FIFTH AVENUE PERSONAL STATIONERY is the ideal Christmas Gift. Monogram or address like engraving (not printed). 100 folded sheets and en- velopes $2.00. White. grey, buff or blue antique ripple finish paper with black, blue or green_em- bossing. Remit with order. Sent postpaid. Fifth Ave. Stationers, Dept. V, 500-Fifth Ave., N. Y. Illustrated Xmas card folder sent on request Swimming Schools SWIM FOR HEALTH, GRACE, effective reducing methods, Exclusive pool, expert instruction. Send for Booklet ©. Mary Beaton School of Swimming, 1 West 67th St., N. Y. Trafalgar 3162 Susq. 8440 Trousseaux PURPLE BOX, 11 FE. 55th St., N. Y. Tel. Plaza 6136. Hand-made lingerie, negligees, boudoir acces- sories. Handkerchiefs, Linens. Monogramming @ specialty. [Workroom at Crippled Children’s School] Unusual Gifts MODERNISTIC ART OBJECTS of great variety. Write for catalog, on store stationery, if you are a dealer, Rena Rosenthal, 520 Madison Avenue (near 53rd Street), New York City WARDROBE SETS beautifully tailored cretonnes in orchid, blue, rcse, green, yellow; consisting 2 hanger garment, 8 pocket shoe & individual laundry bags, $5.00. Boyle Service Bureau, 1674 Broadway, N. Y. Wedding Stationery 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $13.50 hand-engraved, correct in quality and every detail 100 Calling Cards. $2.75. Write for samples V. Ott Engraving Co., 1032 Chestnut St., Phila., Pa. Engraved Wedding Invitations & Announcements. Everett Waddey Co. has for generations insured highest quality at reasonable prices. Del. Book Wedding Etiquette Free. 5S. 11th St., Richmond, Va.

TELL US t, Phe age of the child to be placed in school 2, The location you prefer 3. The subjects of study to be stressed _ The approximate tuition fee. We will mail you at once a list of suitable schools CONDE NAST EDUCATIONAL BUREAU 1930 Graybar Bldg., Lexington at 43d, New York City

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~~ 4 4 4 ¢ oy ¢@ > France, England, Holland. Greatest cruising comfort, incomparable cuisine and service. } Delightful diversion; comprehensive shore excursions. 7 Entire charge of the shore arrangements for the Cruise has been placed in the hands of Thos. Cook & Son, the only Travel Agency having a complete chain of permanent offices in South Afzica. > For choice selection of accommodations, early reservations are suggested. Illustrated booklet ‘1-P” giving full particulars will be sent on request. HOLLAND-AMERICA LINE 21-24 State Street, New York THOS. COOK & SON 585 Fifth Ave., or 253 Broadway, New York Offices and Agencies in all principal cities Fr ¢ 4

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“cabo” —a new walking shoe— madeon the fa- mous fashion welts that smartly retain their shape— SAKS-FIFTH AVENUE New York of ebony vel- vetta suede combined with french kid—a chic all-leather cuban heel. 15.50

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Eat October 15, OGUE is a magazine that is all | things to all people. Primarily, of | course, it is a fashion magazine, and, even in that field, its versatility is marvellous. Consider this issue, for ex- ample. If you want to know the latest, the final word from Paris, there are pages and pages—twenty-three, to be exact— about the great Paris Openings. Perhaps, you want this information because you expect to buy the Paris models as soon as they are imported; perhaps, you only want it in a very general way, as a back- ground in planning your wardrobe. At any rate, here it is for you, presented in the most helpful and comprehensive man- ner possible. The story as a whole gives a clear account of the Paris situation as it stands now that the final decrees have been given. Each high point is specifically illustrated by a sketch of the model that best exemplifies it. Finally, there are the stories of the individual collections, the important parts that go to make up the perfect whole. It is a complete account; when you have read it and studied it, you know the Paris mode as : thoroughly as though you had been there yourself to see it unfold. But, while Paris clothes are the fea- ture of this number, they are not allowed to subordinate other fashions—just as no one feature is ever allowed to subordinate the others of any number of Vogue. Sup- Contents of Vogue for October 15, 1927 Edna Woolman Chase, Editor Cover Design by Benito Paris Shops and Society 38, 40, 44-49 Vogue’s-Eye View of the Mode . . . 61 Mr. and Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt Frontis piece Paris Decrees . , 63-85 As Seen by Him .. . So Sao a Oe Lord Aberconway’s Chitess . . 88-89 hiss, James Gower. 2 se es 90 Mrs. Persifor Frazer, third . . - 91 Costumes Worn by the Smart W orid . 92-93 Mrs. Philip Acosta Carroll . . . 4 Editorial: New Fashion-Plates for Old ; 95 Seen on the Stage a0 ar yy «SER Shades, Screens, and Paats ~ 2 « « © 98=99 The Hostess Plans a Small Dinner. . 100 Reboux Turbans . . a ee oS 101 The Height of Fur Biesuee . 102-103 Scotch Tweed . . . 104 Designs for Practical Dende: "105-110, 114 On Her Dressing-Table . .... . 112 Pre INGE BOGS. ie ee 116 The Jade Mirror . 120-124 Noblesse Oblige . . 126-132 What They Read . 134-138 Answers to Carveapuatents . 140-142 The Golden Walewska . 158-162 Early Opera in New York . . 164-174 Concerning Paper-Boxes . ... . 176 The Diamond in Legend . 178-180 The Gay Capital of Argentine . 182-190 Title Vogue registered in the U. S. Patent Office Copyright, 1927, by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc, VOL. NO. 70 NO. 8 WHOLE NO..1321 PARIS FASHIONS pose you are especially interested in a hat at the moment. It is probably a tur- ban, since they are the newest of the new, and two of the Reboux successes are shown on page 101. Probably, you are very much interested in furs and three aristocrats among fur coats are shown on pages 102 and 103. Suppose, however, that you have your clothes made at home. You get an excellent mental picture of the mode in general by perusing the front of the issue, then you turn towards the back for more practical guidance. If you look at the portfolio of Vogue designs, you will find that they include smart, becoming models for every occa- sion for the new season. But suppose even farther. Suppose the almost impossible—that you aren’t very much interested in fashion. Perhaps, your main concern is with the theatre. There . is “Seen on the Stage” to give you, with the reviews of the new plays as they appear in New York. The fascinating story of life on the summer Riviera by “Him” will make you want to start off now, without even waiting for another summer, to join in that gay, sunny, care- free existence. Suppose, in fact, that almost any- thing at all interests you. Vogue is sure to touch on it in one way or another, and every touch will be of interest. Try it with this issue and see! OGUE is published on the first and fifteenth of every p month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Greenwich, onnecticut. Executive and Publishing Offices, Greenwich, Conn. ntered as second class matter at the Post Office at Green- wich, Conn, ‘met the Act of March 3, 1879 Editoria ices—Gra bar Building, é 48rd Street, Nor Yon - uilding Lexington Avenue at Cable Address: Vonork London: Aldwych House Aldwych, London, W. C. 2, England Cable Address: Volon Paris: 2 7 fom ye VII., Paris, France ] able Address: Vopar } oe Kast, President; Francis L. Wurzburg, Vice-President ; | a eckerle, Treasurer; M. E. Moore, Secretary; Philippe | gg European Director. retentuseripts must be accompanied by postage for their f unavailable. Vogue assumes no responsibility for When in Europe, readers may always obtain American Vogue at the following book-stalls: MADRID: Sociedad General Espafiola de Libreria 25, Calle de Ferraz. PARIS: Brentano et Cie, 37 avenue de l’Opéra. Librairie Galignani, 224 rue de Rivoli. BERLIN: R. Nettke, 1 Leipzigerplatz, Berlin W. 9. BRUSSELS: Salon des Modes de la Librairie Dechenne. Passage du Prince (Galeries Saint Hubert). VIENNA: Hermann Goldschmiedt, Wolzeile 11. ROME: Tito Adriani, Via del Tritone. unsolicited contributions except to accord them courteous attention and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless th» drawings are sent at — order of Vogue or by arrangement with its New York office. Subscriptions for the United States, Panama Canal Zone, Porto Rico, Hawaii, Canada, and the Philippines, $6 a year in advance. Single copies, 35 cents. For other countries, subscription prices will be furnished on request. Remit by cheque, draft, or postal or express money order. Other re- mittances at sender’s risk. Address all correspondence to Vogue, Greenwich, Conn Change of Address. ~The address of subscribers can be changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please sive both the new address and the name and address exactly as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. Four weeks’ notice is required for changing an address or for a new subscription. Printed in the U. S. A. by The Condé Nast Press aihecal

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60 ; rOGe On with the Frolic! Here’s a combination of nuts and chocolate that makes for merriment. The Sweets for Hallowe’en ; : i t a distance. In the very center of the fun, giv- it to your friends a ing warmth and “pep”, is the chosen box of candy. Let us suggest the Fussy Package for the Hallowe’en revels. And, as a most appropriate gift, the Fussy Package in its bright orange and black special gift wrap- per. Whitman agencies will mail candy lovers. It is their assortment. Rich chocolate, flavored with real vanilla beans, with centers of aus and nut combinations. Every pie a firm, or “chewy” chocolate. © S. F.W. & Son, Ine. a Fussy Chocolates The Fussy Package has a peculiar f place in the regard of thousands of |

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WM pusher 15, 1927 VO GUEZ-EVYE VIEW of tHe MODE The neck-line is a point of great interest to the mode, this season. Eve- ning décolletage takes various novel shapes, as in the models shown on pages 66 and 69. Other evening models have scarfs that flutter becomingly. And, in daytime frocks, the handkerchief neck-line is very new. A kerchief is attached at the neck- line and youthfully tied over one shoulder HAT change there is in fashion as decreed by Paris is not revolutionary, arbitrary, or radical. Very few new elements have made their appearance; rather, the change is in the variety of new uses of old factors. Yet, certain main trends are more authoritatively expounded and more generally expressed than heretofore. NE is length of skirt. From morning to night, skirts grow longer. Sports dresses, tailleurs, travelling clothes, and simple dresses are a little longer than last season. Afternoon clothes are often frankly longer than similar dresses of last year. A decided- ly longer uneven skirt is the best rule for evening, and many a dress that touches or nearly touches the floor, in back or at some other point, is super-chic. L rainige of silhouette also varies with the hours, widening from morning to night. Silhouettes are simple, slim, and lithe for sports, travel, and the simple dress; slightly fuller and more complicated for afternoon. At night, lines are often very ample, opulent, and uneven. One point is definite about all this extra material fulness—whether it be in puffs, flounces, bows, loops, bouffant skirts, or any other fabric manipulation—such More and more varieties of jersey make their appearance, and they have great chic in sports and daytime models. Several are shown in the sketches on page 80 Never before has the frock with a long and bouffant skirt been so popular with chic wo- men. But it is not the picture frock of other seasons, not the frock that rustles with pic- turesque memories, but ae bulk is always in vivid contrast to a slim body accent in some rm part of the dress. Never once is the column of the body completely rather a dress of new | Black baby lamb on buried or covered. But the mode has found new, more subtle ways sophistication, crisp | black fabric is the of indicating youthful slimness than by always outlining its entire with its feeling of mo- | height of winter ele- length. Accents and high lights are at times more important than dernity at its best gance—not only for simple underscoring. coats, but for such ce. frocks as the model at HE power and magic of the spirit of fashion and its pres- liar the left on page 76 ent-day exponents shine out clearly in the fact that fancy velvets—fabrics that hitherto have been dowdy, démodé, aging, s of and fussily impossible—have so changed their surfaces, colours, ent. and patterns as to become the outstanding, completely new, and aid chic contribution to the autumn and winter mode. The rigid : and semi-rigid fabrics, because of their uncompromising and uts crisp line, are also an important factor in renewing the after- ece noon and evening mode. HE more general use of tweeds and similar out-of-doors » Inc. fabrics brings more and more sports and travel clothes into the precinct of correctness and suitability. The exaggeration of the sports mode, its influence on clothes and activities far re- moved from sports, just because the sports spirit was a new and largely misunderstood quality, is completely over. THE EDITOR

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an to International Newsreel MR. AND MRS. WILLIAM K. VANDERBILT Mrs. Vanderbilt is the former Mrs. Rosamond Lancaster Warburton, of Phitadelphia, and a daughter of Mrs John E Lancaster, of New York Mr and Mrs Van derbilt were married in Paris on September fifth. Mr Vanderbilt is the great-grandson of the late Commodor Vanderbilt and a son of the late William K. Vanderbilt md the present Mrs. Oliver H. P. Belmont VOGUE | |

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October 15, 1927 AFTER Va Ae Clfternoon Frocks Have Q J lew Reeling OF? Olaboration NICOLE GROULT J. SUZANNE TALBOT The jacket that ties in front, outlining the hips, and the flared skirt with side godets are smartly illustrated by “Valparaiso” (left), an afternoon frock of dark blue rep with a chartreuse jumper embroidered in navy-blue silk; imported by Stewart. “Simplicité” (right) is a two-piece frock of black crépe marocain trimmed with bands of natural kasha giving a double belt effect. Groups of pleats on the skirt form a tri- angular design; imported by Franklin Simon MARTIAL ET ARMAND (Right, above) “Plein d’Audace,” of black georgette crépe, has seams that outline the hips and drop into a cascade, The uneven hem is achieved by embroidery simulating Venetian lace; imported by Franklin Simon RECTIO

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VOGUE Cel On with the Frolic! Here’s a combination of nuts and chocolate that makes for merriment. } The Sweets / or Hallowe'en it to your friends at a distance. The Fussy Package has a peculiar place in the regard of thousands of candy lovers. It is their assortment. Rich chocolate, flavored with real In the very center of the fun, giv- ing warmth and “pep”, is the chosen box of candy. Let us suggest the Fussy Package for the Hallowe’en revels. And, as a most appropriate gift, the Fussy Package in its bright orange and black special gift wrap- per. Whitman agencies will mail Chocolates vanilla beans, with centers of nuts and nut combinations. Every piece a firm, or ““chewy”’ chocolate. © S. F.W. & Son, Inc. Fussy

Page 85

\¥ 4 3 4 VO GUEZ-Eve VIEW orf THE MoDE The neck-line is a point of great interest to the mode, this season. Eve- ning décolletage takes various novel shapes, as in the models shown on pages 66 and 69. Other evening models have scarfs that flutter becomingly. And, in daytime frocks, the handkerchief neck-line is very new. A kerchief is attached at the neck- line and youthfully tied over one shoulder Black baby lamb on black fabric is the height of winter ele- gance—not only for coats, but for such frocks as the model at the left on page 76 HAT change there is in fashion as decreed by Paris is not revolutionary, arbitrary, or radical. Very few new elements have made their appearance; rather, the change is in the variety of new uses of old factors. Yet, certain main trends are more authoritatively expounded and more generally expressed than heretofore. NE is length of skirt. From morning to night, skirts grow longer. Sports dresses, tailleurs, travelling clothes, and simple dresses are a little longer than last season. Afternoon clothes are often frankly longer than similar dresses of last year. A decided- ly longer uneven skirt is the best rule for evening, and many a dress that touches or nearly touches the floor, in back or at some other point, is super-chic. IDTH of silhouette also varies with the hours, widening from morning to night. Silhouettes are simple, slim, and lithe for sports, travel, and the simple dress; slightly fuller and more complicated for afternoon. At night, lines are often very ample, opulent, and uneven. One point is definite about all this extra material fulness—whether it be in puffs, flounces, bows, loops, bouffant skirts, or any other fabric manipulation—such bulk is always in vivid contrast to a slim body accent in some part of the dress. Never once is the column of the body completely buried or covered. But the mode has found new, more subtle ways of indicating youthful slimness than by always outlining its entire length. Accents and high lights are at times more important than simple underscoring. HE power and magic of the spirit of fashion and its pres- ent-day exponents shine out clearly in the fact that fancy velvets—fabrics that hitherto have been dowdy, démodeé, aging, and fussily impossible—have so changed their surfaces, colours, and patterns as to become the outstanding, completely new, and chic contribution to the autumn and winter mode. The rigid and semi-rigid fabrics, because of their uncompromising and crisp line, are also an important factor in renewing the after- noon and evening mode. HE more general use of tweeds and similar out-of-doors fabrics brings more and more sports and travel clothes into the precinct of correctness and suitability. The exaggeration of the sports mode, its influence on clothes and activities far re- moved from sports, just because the sports spirit was a new and largely misunderstood quality, is completely over. THE EpITor More and more varieties of jersey make their appearance, and they have great chic in Sports and daytime models. Several are shown in the sketches on page SO Never before has the frock with a long and bouffant skirt been so popular with chic wo- men. But it is not the picture frock of other seasons, not the frock that rustles with pic- turesque memories, but rather a dress of new sophistication, crisp with its feeling of mo- dernity at its best

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8 990i eee eee International Newsreel MR. AND MRS. WILLIAM K. VANDERBILT Mrs. Vanderbilt is the former Mrs. Rosamond Lancaster Warburton, of Phitadelphia, and a daughter of Mrs. John E. Lancaster, of New York. Mr. and Mrs. Van- derbilt were married in Paris on September fifth. Mr Vanderbilt is the great-grandson of the late Commodore Vanderbilt and a son of the late William K. Vanderbilt and the present Mrs. Oliver H. P. Belmont VOGUE

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saetneeeeeatael October 15, 1927 ONFORMITY has given way to a diversified mode that says special things to special women, and now a woman of taste need conform to nothing but her own manner of living. If one’s life is sim- ple and practical, there are many simple and practical dresses, and this is not new. On the other hand. if one’s life is very actively varied and more formal in observance, there are many dresses that are formal and important in aspect, and this is new. The evening mode, above all others, is varied, colourful, and smartly new, through fabric, cut, colour, and drapery. There are four distinct types of evening dresses. The first is the crisp, positive dress made of stiff satin, faille, taffeta, moire, or velvet. This type is extremely erudite. It flaunts sophistication in its circular tiers, it ties in great pouffes and bows at one side, as in two of the models shown on page 66, or at the back of a slender silhouette, as shown at the lower left on page 69, or, again, it has a frank and challenging wide skirt sil- houette, as the two frocks shown on page 64 illustrate. These are the dresses that achieve bril- liance through other means than ornamentation; this type is the newest note of the season. Here Ls | \y\th ry ., TIT, Put Fe a / , (UU LA / 4 to hes /\ry Se. ee A) illiay CY rejection, as well as selection, is essential. ‘These are not dresses for the woman who must make one evening gown serve many occasions, nor for the woman whose evening gaieties take her mostly to restaurants and theatres. Aristocratic, important, personal dresses, these, for the woman whose life is lived on a scale of social importance. VERSATILE EVENING GOWNS The second group is the longer-in-the-back, soft, floating, diaphanous type of dress, examples of which are shown on page 68. These models do not illustrate an absolutely new silhouette, but the familiar one is presented in greater va- riety and with wider authority than ever before. 63 CALLOT (Left) Callot uses alter- nating, descending bands o} fine gold lace and whit. satin to make “Cité An- tique,” a_ distinguished version of the important evening dress with an un- even hem-line and great length at the back of the skirt. This is a chic ex- ample of the dress for a special occasion in the life of a very smart wo man;imported by Thurn ihese dresses, with their flattering long lines, have importance and dis- tinction and, at the same time, are more adaptable than the stiff ones of the first group. Such dresses as these dance in restaurants, as well as at formal balls; they are not crushed at the theatre; and they may be worn many times. A few very special eve- ning dresses have the long back sil- houette and yet accentuate the body, and these are special dresses for special occasions for the especially chic woman. The third group includes the heavily beaded dress, the embroidered dress, the sequinned dress and the jewelled dress—all with the stamp of novelty. As usual, this is a large group and one that the wise woman will inspect cautiously, using great discrimination and taste before choos- ing from it. At its best, executed with the greatest authority and restraint and taste, it is brilliant. Otherwise, it is only a source of danger to the uninitiated, being cheap through its overrich- ness. The fourth group includes all the chiffon, lace, crépe, fringed, and velvet dresses, the “little” dresses that continue this year with the same quantity and authority that we had last year.

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CHERUIT

~ » s c ad < Uifterry LANVIN The evening silhouctte with crisp lines is achieved with great chic in “Déja,” a Chéruit frock of brilliant red moire, trimmed with two strass buttons; imported by Wanamaker. “Dolores” uses a favourite Lanvin theme—black and silver. The skirt taffeta. The wing-like sides of the made of shirred panels of black bolero are embroidered with flat silver disks; imported by Franklin Simon These are dresses that are simple in aspect, but complicated in construction—draped dresses, tiered dresses, panelled dresses, and winged dresses. It is a large group and a smart group, and deservedly so, for so much of our social life demands the easily wearable dress, the dress that dk portance and fitness of specialization. This type of dress can slip in and out of many evening backgrounds with real charm and quiet dis- tinction Evening décolletage is of every kind—deep V, front and back, surplice, oval, round, and square. Uneven décolletage is prominent, off-one-shoul- der or in a diagonal line from shoulder to shoul- der in front or in back. There are two kinds of scarfs on evening dresses, one that is separate from the dress and one that grows out of the dress itself, being cut in one with the bodice. Very often, in crossing the décolletage, these scarfs make new and amusing lines. Transparent yokes and transparent bands outlining the deé- es not specialize——in spite of the new im- colletage are numerous and extremely smart. Evening hem-lines are decidedly longer and often transparent. They vary from four or five inches below the centre of the knee to any length, even touching the floor itself. They dip to the back or to the side; they are flounced and uneven; they are jagged and uneven; or they are circularly even. A great many have trains- diaphanous ones that drag on the floor, long pointed ones of satin that tie around the wrist, stiff ones of wide ribbon or moire that stream out behind. ACCESSORY JEWELLERY In addition to the jewellery that arises out of the dress itself, such as buckles and jewelled or- naments, there are numerous brooches, bar-pins, watch-fob pendants of diamantes and coloured stones, necklaces, and bracelets. These are of two classes, in general, those of semiprecious stones such as topaz, amethyst, and turquoise

VOGUE and those made of strass, diamante, and imita- tion stones of every hue and description. The first class is usually more successful; it has been designed to go with a certain dress, is comple- mentary in colour, and often has great intrinsic beauty of its own. The fabrics used for the stiff, important gowns are satin, moire, taffeta, metal lamé—plain, with small and large designs of every kind, cut and woven—, brocade lamé, velvet, faille, lacquered sa‘in, lacquered tulle, and flowered taffeta. For the soft dresses, crépes—mousseline, ro- main, marocain, and crépe de Chine—, satin, crépe satin, ciré satin, lamé, mousseline lamé, brocades, brocaded mousseline, plain ciré, and embroidered tulle are important. There is, also, much Jace—point d’esprit ciré, silk, and metal; and velvet—artificial, cut, printed, woven, trans- parent, and plain—is used for many gowns. Ciré metal, transparent metal gauze, fulgurante— all those from Bianchini, Bradford and Perrier, Coudurier, Ducharne, Rémond and Weiner—are all used with success in still other models. The embroidered dresses are of silk and bead embroidery of all kinds—gold, silver, jet, crystal, metal, jewels, and sequins—, in varying patterns, widely spaced, closely drawn, small patterns, large patterns, and spray-like designs. These de- signs may be abstract, Oriental, modern, or naturalistic motifs on lace chiffon, satin, crépe, velvet, or lace. EVENING COLOURS Black, amethyst, midnight-blue, royal-blue, dark green, cerise, orange, nasturtium, frank red. sea shades (greens and blues that shade from the palest aquamarine to chartreuse and attenuated blues and greens), pastel shades. (blue, green, rose, flesh, apricot, mauve, yellow, beige, grége, and rosy-beige), paler than pastel shades (cream, parchment, mauve-whites, off-whites of every kind, the palest pink and green, and white )—all of these are used in the new evening mode. EVENING COATS All evening coats and capes wrap, and _ they are all fur trimmed. The silhouettes are most varied. There are the coats with width of sil- houette at the arms over narrow hips and under narrow shoulders, one of which is shown in the sketch on page 71. This is especially interesting because of the fact that sleeves in general, have great variety of treatment. There are narrow straight capes, with fulness for the arms eased into the sides only above the hips. Fuller capes with swaying panels, loops, and ends are also seen. There are fuller circular capes, as well as coats with a frankly circular cut, and these, too, are illustrated, on pages 70 and 71. Other coats have skirt fulness massed to the front or to the sides. Fur is used for both simple and opulent collars, short collars, long collars, bands, edgings, revers, and linings. Sleeves are set low on the shoulders; they are tucked horizontally, with the tucks hanging down in fulness below the arm; they are slashed, with extra fulness, colours, and materials set in; they have cavalier cuffs of fur; they have winding bands of fur; they have no cuffs; they are shirred at the shoulder with the fulness carried to the wrist, where there is an enormous self- material cuff. The smartest evening coat fabrics are velvet, velveteen, moire, metal lamé, lamé brocade, and satin. Many fur wraps of sable, mink, and ermine are seen. Very chic evening furs are mink, sable, chinchilla, kolinsky (dyed and natural), ermine (summer and winter), all the foxes (baby, silver, beige, fawn, grey, red, and dyed), fitch, white skunk, and monkey. CALLOT’S COLLECTION As usual, it is the loveliness of the Callot colour palette that claims one’s first attention as dress after dress trails graciously across the beautiful rooms in the avenue Matignon. Next, it is the correctness of their documentation.

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petecer 25, 1927 Velvet, plain, transparent, cut, and printed, and laytime lamé lay the foundation of the formal town mode, in sculptured drapery that is uneven nd full, in flying panels cut and slashed, in cir- ular tiers, with puckered backs, with pipings nd bandings of contrasting colour and material, ith yokes, scallops, and sleeves of lace. Unusucl olour combinations prevail, such as red, black, ind two shades of brown in the same ensemble. The ensemble is all-important, and it inclul+s dress, draped, rich in material and colour, be- nea‘h a full-length coat wrapping to the side, collared and cuffed and banded with luxurious fur. Natural kolinsky, brown-and-white fitch, nd Persian lamb are all used. Top-coats are of tweed in neutral colours—voluminous “great” coats, lined with fur or contrasting material in a darker shade, above a three-piece sports en- semble. A green woollen one-piece tailleur wraps in circular sweeps to one side and has a high standing collar of red fur that unhooks and may be taken off, leaving a round surplice neck-line for wear in heated rooms. A black broadcloth coat with a deep bib collar of baby lamb is lined with dark blue lamé and worn over a slim finely pleated dress of the same material. Exotic décolietage of every kind, above layer ifter layer of tulle and chiffon, or long Grecian lines of sinuous satin, distinguishes the evening mode. Trains of satin edged with lace finish dresses that coquette with the knee in front. Slanting panels joined with narrow bands of gold hang in pr:ncesse lines to the ankles. Another lovely series of Callot tulle frocks combines tur- quoise and rose, gold and blue, and flame and gold, in bouffant effect above metal lamé. Satin dresses are draped in front and adorned with lovely water-colour embroidery that comes straight from the silk paintings of China and Japan. A red velvet evening coat, three-quarters in length and uneven at the hem-line to accompany adress with the down-in-the-back movement, is lined with gold lamé and has a wide scarf collar that is thrown over one shoulder like a cape and weighted down with a deep band of soft golden fitch. Two beautiful tea-gowns have an angel-like quality in their floating wing draperies of flame and rose and soft pink. The Callot colours are green, blue, brown, beige, black, flame, white, rose, orange, yellow, gold, and the pastel colours—all these in astound- ing and personal and unusual combinations. CHEZ MADELEINE VIONNET Madeleine Vionnet attains simplicity with the help of a very complicated technique, so that there is a feeling of richness and complexity in her most simple models, The sculptural harmony of lines, the suppleness of movement—bo.h based on a deep knowledge of classical art—, largely contribute to give to all her collections their char- cter of dignity and distinction. Absolutely in- dependent, having no other rule than that of creating beauty, Vionnet nevertheless composes models of new interest and of our day—models that have the inexplicable quality of being in the best Parisian taste, yet highly individual. A series of tweed coats for sports and travel has a very special interest and upholds the rep- itation already merited by Vionnet for her use f English woollens. The severity of mixed wool- ens with grey or beige grounds is softened by enerous shawl collars, scarfs, revers, and vests of fur. English velvet and velours de laine are sometimes substituted for tweeds. Beaver, leopard, or opossum-skunk are the favoured Vionnet furs for this kind of coat. These coats, when not of hip length, are three-quarters or full leng h. The fulness from the shoulder is accentuated towards the bottom of the coat, and the new way in which the top fits is the result of the very particular ut. The back and sleeves are cut in one piece the yokes are in one with the sleeves, the seam is mn top of the sleeve and no longer underneath hese coats are wrapped, one side coming over the other in a diagonal line, or else their straight silhouette is cut either in front or at the side nd held by a leather belt. / cad Z uc{tecn CHANEL Chanel is one of those who belie: in the evening dress that is longer in the back. This model, 403” (left), is of black mousseline in bands and overlapping graduated petal panels; imported by Wanamaker. Stiff black satin fashions “489” (right), with wing fulness on bodice and skirt at the left side, giving an uneven silhouette. A tight-fitting yok ties at the left side; Coats of the more formal type, especially when they complete an ensemble, are frequently of velvet, satin, or broadcloth, in shades of blu graduating from navy-blue to French-blue, with certain soft shades, such as aquamarine. Shaved lamb, grey astrakhan, fox, especially red fox, are used as trimmings. The shape and the ma- terials gain in luxuriousness: it is sometimes a crossed line in frent ‘hat, continuing, knots in thi back like an apron, sometimes a godet of fur at the edge of the side of the coat. A series of capes for day, as well as for evening, have fulness that disappears into a horizontal cut to give arm spac« and is again tight at the hips. Contrasting colours and lines that cut the surface, but leave the straight silhouette intact, are used for sports. The sports costume is com- posed of a sweater and skirt, sometimes accom- panied by a short jacket to be worn under a top-coat.A grége jersey sweater has triangular in- sertions of bright blue and a blue suéde belt. Another one, in beige, has a vivid blue yoke imported by Wanamak , completed by a skirt of the same blue and a deep red coat with a black belt. Used as mediums between sports and formal clothes, the coat-dress and the tailleur dress are represented by a few models of broadcloth, velours de laine, and mixed woollens. The coat-dresses, cut partially circular, have a surplice line held by a leather belt. The numerous details and geometric architec- tural cuts that give their distinct personality to Vionnet’s creations are found in the afternoon mode. There are supple, vague draperies, some- times outlining a V neck with their faint folds or softening a rectangular yoke, sometimes coming down from the armpit to meet in the centre front or else accentuating themselves as they come closer to the waist, but very seldom clasping the body; intersected or twisted material; supple bows cut in one with a neck-line or at the waist- line, tucks or fagoting disposed in rays; groups of flares bursting suddenly and bringing all the (Continued on page 144)

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VOGUE a ~- | > shai gl and ‘Se affeta JEAN PATOU — / t Byatt - (Left) “Petit Diner” is a smart YASS UC Ore ‘ TINE Orlean t costume with a sleeveless dinner- i / g / drece f -~b ti a0" a) Ipp4 Oe Fae iy lress oy black satin with two deep pai C) Ck - oD TD (nN CS flounces at one side, a black broad- : - ° / tail coat, and a black satin hat trim- thn rf i / 5 /; ° . / ] Pe med with flat curled feathers; im- / F : eat CIJANC © > , . Fa ported by Bergdorf Goodman SY " | i Dé (: - . : me TRAN F , j ‘ : @ » : 4 - A % “, } ee Pe Owe JEAN PATOU (Right) “Discrétion” is a a dinner-dress of black satin, one of the smartest materials of the season. The dress has a becom- ing décolletage, a gathered flounce on the skirt, and : a Pert agi UZ — d gu dle d \ tied 1 large bow with A . } stiff Hated and long, irreg- j = ular ends; imported - \ ' by Saks-Fifth Avenue . . JEAN PATOU (Extreme ri ght) Flowered ~— taffeta is an extremely chic evening fabric for winter wear. It fashions “Trianon,” a frock wrapped tightly about the figure, with an uneven sur plice décolle tage and huge puffs of the material 4 with slashed ends placed at the left hip; imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue

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| aN / of y.> —_, r - a kr) 5 4} EF .. - 7 ef . / k A VAG Nessa V/ = is a ( R } } r wil f fa ; LL / fil ap pee WORTH Llroaoyn whe - Vn 0))/toaA/o ; ” nanenaid , : GML SUFNOSE F/2CULTADIE (Right) “Ondine” is an evening PF) , pom ic dress of dark green satin and dark yy = dl ~ - é f F on TT) LY green tulle. It has a tightly swathed a Cee ” O/ ee ae girdle with long loops and ends i : tied at the centre front and ac- oe be Trt od 4TFaACe cented by two strass ornaments, it above a full, uneven tulle skirt

PREMET (Extreme left) Premet uses point d’esprit with great authority in “Brebis Egarée,” an evening dress that moulds the figure tightly, but gains a wider silhouette through di- agonally placed flounces on the skirt. The length at the back gives it de- cided sweep and line, de- spite its transparency MOLYNEUX (Left) In “121,” Moly- neux uses a _ large-pat- terned metal brocade in gold, black, and_ red. The short sleeveless Zouave jacket over the blouse is youthful and chic, as is the two-tiered skirt with gathered ful- ness that hangs low from the right hip; im- ported by Bonwit Teller

x

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VOGUE ee 7 4 ws Tte Sra VCNLING 7) O de ISEBOU LANGER LOL This evening dress of black mousseline and beaded tulle garland of multicoloured flowers outlining the corsage, is among the season. It is new, youthful, modern, and short, full, gathered flounce, and the great interest and with a flat hit .. thre usseline underskirt have imported by Thurn LOUISEBOULANGER (Right) Louiseboulanger continues her tradition of floating panels and uneven skirt length in this very lovely dress of bluc-and-silver lamé combined with blue mousseline; imported by Bendel

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October 15, 1927 Cee She a Covenin Node ~

69

rreat distinction. Di § pite I] ts unusual silhouette, it is not a pictur

< LOUISEBOULANGER This talented designer believes in flowered taffeta for the winter season and proves its chic through her extremely skilful manipu- lation of grey-and-multicoloured taffeta into a tightly draped, ae slender silhouette on which is massed puffs and drapery that giv dth and crisp, fresh lines. The décolletage has special interest, yy porte d by Boni it T¢ lle» UCISEBOULANGER (Left) A brilliant matelassé brocade in “es ram ] Slive? SAHIORS THIS CTE 1 iported by Thurn

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70 VOGUE LUCIEN LELONG DRECOLL JENNY CHERUIT This luxurious evening coat Of a true Russian opulence Multicoloured flower bro- “Desdemona,” by Chéruit, is of black velvet trimmed with is “Prince Igor,” an evening cade is combined with ermine a double evening wrap of black fox, “Saturnia,” is a wrap of orange moire. Sable in “Chasuble,” a coat of red, gold, and silver lamé. marvel of elaborate simplic- is used to outline the sleeves straight lines from Jenny. The huge, full points of the ity. The rippling flounces and to fashion the high col- Bands of ermine that widen outer wrap give great un- from shoulder to hem at the lar, and the fulness of the toward the bottom continue evenness and movement, and back give smart movement; sleeves is accented by narrow down both sides of the front, the enormous coachman’s imported by Jay-Thorpe bands at the _ shoulders and the cuffs are of ermine collar is of gold mouffion TWINENG WRART Sabric. Fur and ‘Fulner \ Tiv« an C lir of Creat ALAUXUMLOUSIRCLY

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Gesecer I5, 1927 ee SEIMEI 78 mm oO —s Z ‘— ¢ ° := 5 i a LANVIN Lanvin uses mistletoe-green velvet with lines of silver for “Le Gui,” a wrap that its notched in the back to form twoabbreviated looped bands. The fulness is gathered into the yoke of the mink collar; imported by Lord and Taylor LOUISEBOULANGER Louiseboulanger favours bands of fur placed in easy curves about the upper part of the silhouette, giving the effect of a short cape, as does the beige-and-brown fox on this brown velvet coat, “144,” imported by Lord and Taylor ARE OPULENE / / / _ s ~ a 5 ee a ro / K> , eo - a e . nN nN ae — ’ wr ; 9 ~ aes - y ,Y y Z 4 4 re = ° er 4 i Som alll ~~ ee id LANVIN The lamé of this wrap, “Burgos,” is in a very small design of Persian motif and colour, the type that is distinctly new this season. The extremely large cuffs and the huge, becoming collar of Kolinsky are important MOLYNEUX Molyneux has chosen a dark brocade in brown, black, green, and gold to niake a luxurious “isk” ft about the figure and has a huge collar, cuffs, and out- lining bands of very dark mink evening wrap, wra ps tightly

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VOGUE She FU RPLECE L in J or VENLNAG oF NICOLE GROULT (Extreme left) A chic sug- gestion of the high waist- line used on a frock with a transparent lower skirt is especially good. “Guitare” is of black crépe de Chine vith tiers of black fringe placed diagonally; import- ed by Bergdorf Goodman YTEB (Lejt) Many smart points are illustrated by this black velvet evening dress, ‘Fol lette’’—the bodice that blouses over draped hips, the square décolletage, thi skirt drapery held by a rhinestone buckle, and thi graceful pointed petals DOEUILLET Three strass ornament trim “Robe Satin Rose,” a rose satin evening dress with a sur plice bodice, soft- ly draped overtightly mould- d hips, and a front cascade in the skirt giving the smart up-in-front feeling

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Te October 15, 1927 “I w LOUISEBOULANGER (Left) Of ciré gold two-toned lamé is “98,” with an exotic gir- dle and trailing panels of mauve glycerinized ostrich and gold em- hroidery. The shoes are from Hell stern. Baron Hoyningen-Huené designed the “élégante” who wears . this distinguished gown Hoyningen-Huené, Paris PARELZT YEA a SF uf. gai 4 a » gop . fa eee i QAN?RC? O/ LL Cl ILKnown ( ) “yy ) ~ s— Baron Hoyningen-Huené HE photograph on this page 7) OGU Astisty Jrese nN rt tot 10) teenage sy and the four on the two y © : Porter Woodruff, Douglas Pol- pages following show new / | . - rene ‘ated sete ; a Creelman. Each of these artists French evening gowns worn by Irie “an leN Tr? ( g Pisce five striking mannequins. These has created a detinite type— ae a lard, Polly Francis, and Lee chic young ladies in wax have smart, distinguished and _ very been executed by Siégel and nN lode charming, with long, slim lines, Stockmann, in Paris, in the man- wearing five outstanding new eve- ner of well-known Vogue types Ww ning models from _ important as drawn by Vogue’s collabora- French houses.

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i yningen-Huené, Paris ——— eins anes — — a ee ‘ins = \ ] > | ‘ae | 4) Py aN oii CYITROR Coe wv / a =“ ) vahed. ya / a a ~y ) a—y " yY } ) wy ~y eR RS KE. PELL GTO G a it ( ectia / a yh wr y 4 J 7 i caw Fd ( / - P = ( aa 5) ) y y ~Y & © ly LANVIN ‘ JEAN PATOU “” , : , } } u y ) ’ 2melia is a gow) coral-re¢ One Jean Patou’s very smart en- cr€pe romain embroider im a cor WG semble ( ewellery and gown is Stellation pattern « hite beads shown in “Les Epis d’Or,” an eve- 1 single belt encis sie ale 18 sans >= ee : d ingl t encircl / waist in ning l¢ ream georgette crepe @ spiral line ini port } Franc vith a necklace and buckle of to paz, Clyn Shoes fy G , jewels from Fouquet; imported by Franklin from Van Cleef and Arpels; manne Simon. Shoes from Hellstern; manne- guin ¢ ened by Porter Vi oodrufi quin ¢ ned ! Douglas Pollard VOGUE

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Hoyningen-Huené, Paris LUXURIOUS FABRICS / # Gai Wwhecornt the Olegance 'E Ovening |) odes CHERUIT Chéruit is partial to the evening sil- @ Vers la Nuit” is of sapphire-blue houette with a softly slim bodice and elvet, skilfully draped into an eve- a bouffant skirt. “Demain” is a black ning gown of great dignity. A large, taffeta frock with brocaded silver mo- flat flower is placed on the right hip, tifs. The crisp lines of the model are tbove a gathered panel that falls in a very chic. Jewels from Linzeler and long, graceful point. Jewels from Marchak i shoes from Gre co; mianne- Maubous sin Pi shor S from Crrec Oo; quin designed by Polly Francis mannequin designed by Lee Creelman ~~! uw

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76 VOGUE OR daytime wear in town, there are two types of dresses. The first is the simple dress for simple occasions. This is either a trot- teur of cheviot or other wool material or a “little” even-hemmed dress of crépe or the soft light wools that have had success fer many seasons. Boleros, flat tiers, pleats, flat incrustations, bands and bows and belts, slight circular flares, godets, ill are details of such dresses. The second is he important afternoon dress for important oc- casions. It is made of satin, taffeta, moire, vel- vet—plain, printed, or with cut designs—, and daytime lamé, with the novelty circular cut of ¢ t the season or flounces, draperies, cascades, and uneven hem-lines. The second type of dress is undoubtedly the most important. There is a basic slimness in these dresses, despite their extra material, but their silhouettes are varied and uneven in contour through the extra ma- terial that is manipulated or draped. The details of the daytime mode are legion. Yolks and incrustations are most important, cuts of every sort, seam accentuations, bindings, pip- every kind and ings, cordings, darts, arrow-heads, buttons, but- tonholes, collars, revers, cuffs, shirring, hem- stitching, faggoting, panels, tucks, flounces, ruf- fles, pleats of every sort, godets, scalloping of every kind (large and small, umbrella-shaped, saw-tooth, and diagonal), fringe, bows, belts of description (wide, narrow, crushed, s‘iff, fastened with a buckle, tied, sewed, of leather, ribbon, lamé, silk, stitched, bound, or encrusted with jewels), buckles of wood, crystal, silver, gold, steel, strass, and every combination of coloured stone, semiprecious and imitation— all of these have their place on smart frocks. The neck-lines are varied. They are round, oval, square, V-shaped, uneven, and _ surplice ( Many are bound with bands ending in ends x bows; others have collars or revers, while Jerwel VIONNET (Extreme left) In “5261,” Vionnet combines a fine, dull-surfaced velours de laine with softly curling, shiny black baby lamb, the result being a_ two-piece dress with great sophistica- tion. The fur neck-piece that ties is separate; im- ported by Mme. Elizabeth VIONNET (Left) The smartest nov- elty of the season is the use of velvets with tiny printed or woven designs. In “S282,” Vionnet works a wonder of simplicity in a two-piece dress of brown- and-beige velvet with great suppleness of line; import- ed by Saks-Fifth Avenue scarfs, both separate and cut in one piece with the top of the bodice, are much in evidence. rhe waist-line is an elastic element once more. It can be placed high, low, indifferently, high on one side or in the front, crisscrossed, or be totally absent. The hips, however, are all im- portant. They are outlined, accented, and em- phasized, with a higher feeling in most instances Coats for the daytime—whether they are part of an ensemble or separate—fall into the same two classes as do frocks: they are simple coats for simple occasions, or they are elaborate models. Within these two classes, however, there is great variation. Coats may be hip-length, three-quar- ters-length, seven-eighths-length, or long. They may hang straight from the shoulders and flare; they may fit at the waist and flare; they may do both of these things and not flare. They have straight hem-lines and scalloped ones; they have rounded edges; unless they flare from the DAYWT ARAL Noder Clre Re fa)

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October 15, 4d DRAPERY acon Je ae f, ae TT Lhd ahd ER ~ PAQUIN (Right) Afternoon dresses have never been so versatile “Bijoux,” of black cré pi marocain, has small rhinc- stone buttons that add rich formality. New details are the triangular neck-line, the draped and tied hip-line, and the uneven hem-line; imported by Frances Clyne PAQUIN Paquin frequently uses an ntire animal as a coat trim- ming,as on“ Le Trappeur.” an afternoon coat of steel- grey velvet, wrapped and slightly flared. A whole blue fox forms the long shawl collar, and the fur is re- peated across the back; im- ported by France .) Clyne shoulders, they drape around the hips; they wrap to the side and io the front; they button straight up with ten buttons to a coachman’s collar. Sleeves are cut in one piece with the yoke, in one with the front and back, in circles, in tri- angles. They are tucked diagonally; they are stitched with sun-ray patterns; they are inserted with round muffs of fur below the elbow; they are shirred below the shoulder; they are slashed and inserted with another material or col- our; they have gauntlet cuffs or material or of fur; they are linked at the wrist like a man’s cuff Fur trimming on the daytime coat is varied and abundant. There is a great deal of the conven- tional collar, cuff, down-the-edge. and around the hem-line use of rich, rolled furs, usually fox or lynx. Wide flat bands of fur encircle the neck and go down the edges of o‘her models. Enormous hussar cuffs of fur are used on coats with no fur collar, and one may see a fur collar of caracal in- skins that side a cloth collar, two whole fox sprawl down the front of a coat and he centre, bigh, standing Russian collars of fur that are lined with velvet, deep crinolines of fur on each side of a black broadcloth coat, and fur wrapped around a coat sleeve and allowed to keep the shape of the animal from which it comes. Pockets of fur, attached it the side closing of a coat, diagonal and rectan- gular bibs of fur, and muffs of fur on a cloth meet in wide godets of fur coat are all in smart evidence. And _ there are gauntlet cuffs of sleek fur, wide bands of black lynx that make a rounded apron in front and a deep fish-tail in back, and diagonals of fur that start at each hem-line and point up to a side closing. The popular daytime furs are: istrakhan (black, grey, brown, and beige), castor, beaver (natural and bleached), opossum-skunk, lynx, every type of fox (silver, grey, beige, fawn, breitschwantz, dyed, cross-fox), baby fox, goat, summer and white ermine, shaved lamb (white, beige, and grey), kolinsky (natural and dyed), mink, squir- rel, mole (seal coloured, bleached, and natural), gazelle, antelope, monkey, imitation chinchilla, and rabbit in various disguises. The smart daytime materials are crépe de Chine, crépe georgette, crépe romain, all the othe: crépes, moire, twill, velvet (plain, cut, woven and printed), velveteen, satin, crépe satin, fu gurante, daytime lamé, and handwoven fabrics. In wool, broadcloth, grain de poudre, tiny basket- weave wools, wool velvets, cheviot. tweed, home- spun, bure, imitation breitschwantz, kashatulla, crepella, many wools shot with metal, jerseys, cor- duroy, and Rodier and Meyer novelties are all used Black, all tones of brown and beige, dark blue royal-blue, amethyst, purple, water-blues, hya- cinth, Chinese-vermilion, green, topaz, gréege, and black and white are all chic colours. greys,

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/\ | j | j \ \ | j /X MARTIAL ET ARMAND This coat of dove-grey broadcloth, “Sans Délai,” is encrusted with quilted stitch- l Best ing and grey fox; imported by MOLYNEUX Beige-and-brown tweed fashions “156, elling coat with belt of brow Lord 7 ] VOGUE LANVIN LANVIN Muff-like cuffs are an amusing “Samson” is a very smart coat ] ‘ and i avic detail of “Casse-Cou,” a straight simple coat of black velours de laine. Both the collar and the 1 cuffs are fashioned of very fine black pony; imported by Thurn ” it | without fur trimming. It is of al- ternating bands of black silk and black velours de laine quilt- lin a herring-bone design. The ca the collar small cuffs are large,

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Octeber 15, 1927 =9 EB ANA = , Ron CUTS a ) ( ‘? Fis Yrntoreyt FCS Le CEs YFCEOST CoH v WORTH “Enigme,” of navy-blue velours de laine, is very cleverly trimmed with ombré grey astrakhan; imported by Bendel CHERUIT CHERUIT “Toko,” a coat of heavy black Bands of white skunk and black novelty twill, is trimmed with — skunk are the unusual trimming DOUCET encrusted bands of the material of “Je l'Aime,” a coat of deep Site soui-belgn meen welll tik and a collar and band of mouf- brown velvet. The full cape sides wer are well combined in “Rendes- flon. The moufflon is placed to are accentuated bv bands of the vous;” imported by Lord and Taylor form a point at each side fur;imported by Hattie Carnegie

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rT TT tat Bicsecceay TTT e \ MARCEL ROCHAS CHANTAL A feature that continues to be smart is the dégradé effect illustrated in“Pistache,” @ frock of frisca jersey (left). The incrustations, from the top down, are in heige, nut, cocoa, green, and dark brown; imported b) Altman. “Chiberta” (right) combines two smart nex jerseys—beige jcrs woven to simulate accordion pleating, in the sk irt and jersey in a lace design in beige, yellow, red, and black, in the kasha-trimmed overblouse im ported by Saks-Fifth Avenue GERMAINE LECOMTI — , , , (Left, above) Corduroy is the newest fabric for the ore tailored type of coat. In “Matinal,” rosy-beig orduroy is worked with triangular incrustations and trimmed with natural lynx; imported by Best YVONNE CARETTE (Left) “Delphine” is a one-piece frock that is par- ticularly interesting because of its use of a new nar- row-striped jersey. The stripes are in red on a beig ground, and the belt is of kid; imported by Altman i EERE» ; 3 » ! i Rte .

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Ss ARSE en October 15, 1927 NICOLE GROULT J. SUZANNE TALBOT The jacket that ties in front, outlining the hips, and the flared skirt with side godets are smartly illustrated by “Valparaiso” (left), an afternoon frock of dark blue rep with a chartreuse jumper embroidered in navy-blue silk; imported by Stewart. “Simplicité’ (right) is a two-piece frock of black crépe marocain trimmed with bands of natural kasha giving a double belt effect. Groups of pleats on the skirt form a tri- angular design; imported by Franklin Simon MARTIAL ET ARMAND (Right, above) “Plein d’Audace,” of black georgette crépe, has seams that outline the hips and drop into a cascade, The uneven hem is achieved by embroidery simulating Venetian lace; imported by Franklin Simon BECHO?! (Right) “Serpentine” embod: of the mode. It ts of shiny on the bias and has the one-sided encrusted diagonal bands; many characteristics

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VOGUE gd 9 (Que JSOUE rity G cwenttal t ut Lal tO / j ~/ = Ni ‘# JEAN PATOU The Sports mode chic by harmo- “Plein Soleil,” a beige and marocain frock, has orange and brown bands, an orange an- and Right) achieves nex nious details jersey Sports gora cardigan, a separate harmonizing scarf; import- ed by Saks-Fifth Avenue LANVIN Right, middle) The almond- green cardigan to matcn the wool skirt of “442” is a chic detail. The blouse is of crépe de Chine in the same green, and there are suspender straps above the pleated skirt; imported by Bendel LANVIN (Extreme right) Black for Sports wear is very smart. Black woollen crepella fash- ions “418.” The short middy top is trimmed with a bow and bands of white kasha stitched in black and piped in ved; imported by Bendel N almost classical restraint characterizes the truly suitable and hence smart costumes for sports and travel. Any eccentricity of cut, fabric, or colour is rejected, and a cor- rect, appropriate, practical outfit is the chic re- sult of this taste and discipline. A casual, frank, open-air quality emanates from all the best sports form, ensembles. The ensemble rules the sports and travel mode. There are two-, three-, and four-piece ensembles, and the last, consisting of jumper, skirt, cardigan or jacket, and top-coat, are in the majority. There are one-piece sports frocks, but many of hese are divided in half to resemble a two-piece jumper and skirt. Belts are as important as ever: wide, narrow, buckled, tied, stitched, encrusted leather, tweed, homespuns and other woollens, crépe de Chine skirts is certainly ribbon, and added length of grosgrain The new a feature of the sports mode. Skirts that attain fulness by softly folded, deep pleats, rather than by slightly stitched and pleated, narrow, all- around ones, are by far the smartest. Moderate circular godets appear in the sports mode, softly flaring and frankly box pleated. Ten gores go all around slightly circular skirt, or one large one goes from side to side in front. Groups of pleats balancing plain spaces, too, are excellent. THE JUMPER TOP Jumpers are knitted to fit and cut to fit. They are woven, printed, and encrusted, in stripes and modernistic designs of every Neck-lines are square, V, round, or surplice. Jersey materials of every description are important. Cardigans of ill types appear: sleeveless and with sleeves, of of tweed, knitted with tweed designs, nov- sort. jersey, elty designs, and the classical stripes and bands, buttonless, and with four or six buttons. Sports coats are full length, three-quarters length, and short jacket length. Most frequently, they are fur simple classical manner—with shoulder collars, shawl collars, or hem to hem bands—, while cuffs, when they appear, are very simple. Pockets and pocket details are a featured note, as are belts and belt arrangements that are cut in one piece with pockets, panels, sides, or backs. In- crustations, cuts, bands, and other ingenious flat decorations give interest to classical shapes. The sports materials are tweed, homespun, all rough-surfaced and non-sleek woollens, basket- weave woollens, gravel weave, brocatelle weave, kasha, kashatulla, crepella, velours de laine, cor- duroy, and jersey of every kind and description (angora, cashmere, fancy weave, accordion pleat- trimmed in a

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er Oetecer 3, I927 wg oe) Elaboration LUCIEN LELONG (Extreme left) Modernistic incrustations are seen in many Paris collections. On “Embuscade,” a sports en- semble of beige crépe de Chine, the motif is in dark brown crépe de Chine. Th fine pleating appears at the front of the skirt onl LUCIEN LELONG Many sports ensembles in- clude four pieces. “Criquet 2” has a cardigan and jumper of rosy-beige jersey, the latter woven with fine pastel col- oured stripes. The skirt and double-breasted coat are ot wool cashmere to match WORTH (Left) “Chasseur” is a s ports or travel ensemble with a chestnut-brown cheviot coat trimmed with brown astra- khan and lined with beige- and-brown plaid. The vest like jumper is of the plaid, the skirt of the cheviot ed, openwork, shot with metal, and printed) in the greatest of quantity. Hand-knitted and machine-knitted sweaters of great variety of weave and patterns are seen, with bands, stripes, and spotted patterns. Furs for sports are opossum, beaver (plain or ombré), lynx, natural seal, marten, lamb, krimmer, shaved lamb, gazelle, and_ squirrel. hese are used as trimmings, linings, and for vhole coats. Beige, grége, brown, black and white, blue, green, red, grey, three or four shades of the same grey, beige, or blue, combinations of beige and blue, beige and red, beige and brown, beige and nasturtium-red, beige and orange, beige and ‘reen, grége and green, grége and bright brown, d and blue, black and beige, black and blue, re all extremely smart, as are all of these com- inations with the addition of white. The models on these two pages and the two pages following illustrate the most important de- tails of the sports mode. Several show the im- portant cardigan and the way in which it com- pletes the harmony of the ensemble. In the model at the left on the opposite page, the cardigan is of angora jersey—a very important fabric—in orange to match the lighter bands on the frock and the scarf. The cardigan beside it is of the green wool that is used for the skirt, while, on page 84, a cardigan in a knitted jersey repeats the colours and the design of the tweed skirt. THE IMPORTANCE OF PLEATS These models illustrate, also, how important pleats are in the sports mode. In the majority of models, these are at the front only, but, in a few instances, they go all around the skirt. Such a model is shown at the lower left on page 85, giving a very youthful effect. Fewer pleats and wider ones are more general, however, since the sports mode is, above all, a practical on for active wear. The fact that eight of the sports costumes il- lustrated are trimmed with stripes or bands is a significant fact, for this is a predominant note in costumes of this type. Stripes have an in formal feeling that makes them particularly suitable, and they offer an excellent opportunity for colour contrast. In the majority of cases, they are encrusted on the fabric of blouse or skirt, but, occasionally, they are knitted into the fabric, as in the jumper top of the ensemble shown in the middle of the sketch on this page. Here, the stripes are in pastel shades against a ground of rosy-beige jersey—a colour and a fabric of which too much can not be said,

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a / \ J \F / vy, PREMEI Incrustations in great variety are een, and they are particularly effective in a ribbed fabric. In “Le Petit Terrassier,” beige cor- duroy is smartly combined with heige jersey, and the result is a sports-lik tecling that ts ¢ vcellent ; ri¢ d hy Be st LONDON TRADES Righi The three-piece ports ensemble has a definite place in the n collections. **For the 12th” has a cardigan and skirt of red- ind-beige tweed, and bands of the tweed trim the jumper top, with ully rounded neck; im- ported by Bendel ] » vy fF PARGZ nt ir aes ary) / f wm A J a Z A. ry ~~ * : Fla vei Chic VOGUE LONDON TRADES A cardigan of knitted red-and- beige jersey in the same design as the tweed skirt gives variation to the classic sports ensemble. The beige knitted jersey top of this model—"'L. T. 105”—has bands to match the cardigan; imported by Lord and Taylor CHAMPCOMMUNAT (Left) New in detail is “15 bis,” a two-piece dress of bluish- grey wool, The collar, cuffs, and vottom of the blouse are “mou- choirs” piped with bands of darke) blue and grey to match thos on the skirt; imported by Th Tailored Woman }

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85 October 15, 1927 UE BD) N Tq yA ee P f will a Pale a ee At ne, ee (PMPUCITY i y / j NL) \ Ps rey PX Lo) ’ j A \ re Rank Os eS ee a ok — ~ YY i) ee A cas san) om AP a OO a i ae Yo. 1 iy eee / a ; ) =; RA ee ae ae, | y = ee ~»y ~s ~~ la ra. —— a es NA / 7 / f | } | | } \ } | { H / \ vA CLAIRE ANY BEER “La Boulie’ has an encrusted Striped jersey in dégradé shades double neck-line and a_ double of grey with encrusted bands ot belt of tweed to match the skirt, steel-grey crépe de Chine form vhile the jumper ts of beige jersey the jumper top of “Sam,” a two- : and the cardigan of beige angora piece sports dress. The skirt 1s ersey. The arrangement of pleats of broadcloth with wide diagonal at the skirt front is a new and seams in front, ending in pleats smart sports note imported by Jay-Thor pe MARY NOWITZKY MARY NOWITZKY Right) Angora jersey is used for (Left) The one-piece sports frock “Miche,” a youthful one-piece is smartly illustrated by “Maybe,” sports frock in pale rose. The fine of light brown, rough-surfaced quality of the jersey allows the fine tweed. Godet-like incrustations pleating of the whole skirt and give an impression of fulness to the amusing car-like tabs that are the straight silhouette. Large but- used for trimming on the blouse tons trim the model; imported and long sleeves by Saks-Fifth Avenuc %

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60 Summer Blue which is only old, is the little brother of the Train de xe that has carried the chic world to the Mediterranean HE Train, two years ypolitan shores of the cosnit winter after winter, for many vears. This Summer Blue Frain is only an infant, a sort handful last two of concession to the of people who, in the vears, have discovered that the beauties of the Mediterranean bloom for them The centre of life of the summer invaders of Back in Grasse under the summer sun as they have never the Riviera lies along the shores of Cap de Croisset, bloomed for the great world in the winter. Yet, d’Antibes and in the hills behind Juan-les-Pins There. on a it is a sign of many things to come! How and Cannes, but, of course, it is stretched out the fantastically is it, one asks, that, in all these years, the row for miles in each direction. From Monte Carlo, that resembles of hotels and villas along the water-front from where Edward Molyneux has his new villa, to Cannes to Monte Carlo have remained shut Saint Maxim, a hundred kilometers in the other the cloister. igainst rt irable bathing, cool off the sea ail we te tinting the I have passed it by, been l¢ world summer splendour have now that the Riviera has been discovered in sum- t a sparkling summer sea, nights with distant a cloudless sky, and long evenings with sunset lights Alps? How can and how can all its slumber ? These are questicns that can not be answered, but, she lost in mer, it does not take genius to predict become the summer resort of all Europe And, sure- L eo a My | le j > f / fi) wy Rw’ - capi ic AW Le?Q, ISVS eet SJ ASIST AIS L&E A, m af /~ oe a on Dy U We mart Croup in. Summer an / nail ia es PP ~ = Vay /) -~) Duds Fair tO yey ecome the J/ummer Mou LOUGIOUNna Of the Wor td direction, where there is already a colony of artists and Bohemians, there are groups of people who have taken villas. At Beaulieu, the terrace of Mary Garden’s villa dips into the sea, and her friends niotor from every direction to bathe and lunch with her all during the summer, for framed by breezes houetted cushions, with is one of the earliest settlers in the summe! colony. On a high hill above her is the beautiful times one went that it will villa of Madame Balsan, one of the most won- Cannes derful houses on the Riviera, and, on the hilltop ly, it offers sufficient enchantment to win this title. next to it, Sam Barlow has created a villa of baisse, lobsters : irst of all, there is the marvellous scenery. several houses in the old cliff town of Eze. Here, casserole. Then. an a land where the mountains kiss the sea, one lunches on the terrace under a canopy of tiny be: line. Every vision of the sparkle, and the moonlit fairy-land. turn in the road dramatic nights turn A new of romance. discovered l oor s and miles of coves and little harbours, iches and rocky inlets breaking the coast- landscape. By day and by night, beckons and gives back life and health in a world to Fountain of Youth has been a view that is onlytobe the and, after an Here. dried pine boughs, surveys obtained, from the top of the world, excellent lunch, dreamily contemplates the hazy there are discloses a new The days noonday world lying at one’s feet. These two the scene into a houses are famous the length and breadth of th and dinner. is Riviera, and, as they are both open from time time in the summer, they have become Meccas for the pilgrimages of their fortunate friends, numbers are legion. the sea Riviera. whose the beach. which is moonlit night, the background of a while the moonlight pours through the arches of reflected in tall obelisks of black cypresses sil- against the the marble-paved terrace, propped against great the one knows that one is in a place of enchantment. Every night of the season brought a new thrill to the inhabitant of this summer paradise. and dined in the there is a famous chef who specializes in bouilla- again, the charming, tiny Casino at Juan-les-Pins, where food is excellent and the a table of boule baccarat with four tables and its own tiny bar, in addition to the big bar, the On gala nights at the Casino, the were put out during dinner and an exhibition of fireworks was set off from a barge just beyond When the hour grew late, VOGUE Higher up still and further back is “Gourdon,” the cha- teau of Miss May Norris, which is really an eleventh- century castle. This was once an impregnable — stronghold, and romance clings to its pic- turesque walls, for, in centu- ries gone by, it was the sen- tinel tower of that part of th world, and, from it, beacon lights signalled the arrival of the invading pirates. is the famous villa of Francis open in one may dine on terrace in a setting primitive, also summer. beautiful pools of water and silver night. Sitting there on sky, moon sailing across the Some- to the Islands off little restaurant where in a _ boat l’Américaine, and poulet en one dined at the Casino, dance and music good salle de before lunch the summer lights which, rendezvous of the gay

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Se MY = October 15, 1927 crowds, those who love the night, would stroll over to Maxim’s, which is, perhaps, the gayest and most intimate little boite in Europe, to dance till morning, for this is one of those lucky places that have achieved atmosphere. At Maxim’s, one passes from a dimly lit garden, where one can also dine, through an open doorway into a brilliantly lit small bar with tables and sofas in the corner and a square for dancing. There, every night, were the people who had been swimming and picnicing and playing bridge day after day. NIGHT-LIFE AT JUAN-LES-PINS At Juan-les-Pins, there is, also, a Russian cabaret, the Triton, with very good music, a terrace-garden for open-air dancing and dining, and a little bar called Chez Jack’s. To this bar, the summer inhabitants went for bacon and eggs late at night, and once a boxing-match was held there in a little square room that is ordinarily used for dancing. By far the best thing on the summer Riviera in the way of entertainment, however, was the band at Maxim’s, This consists of two men—one at the piano and one at the drum. Montie Lyle, the drummer, who is well known at the Boeuf sur le Toit, in Paris, would occasionally sing jazz songs in an inimitable way that endeared him to every member of the Riviera colony. One night, he came to sing and play at a dinner-dance given by Lady Mend at the villa that she took for the summer at Cannes. His ex- cellent jazz was so intriguing that, when the party was over, every one went on to Maxim’s to dance out the night to more of his provocative music. On other nights of this glamorous summer, there were dinners at Adolph Lewisohn’s beau- tiful pink villa, the “Corne d’Or,” on the edge of the water looking over the harbour of Cannes, or one motored to Saint Paul, the lovely hill town with the crooked streets and old houses. Here, there is a beautiful church, which has one of the most priceless collections of relics in France and a rare twelfth-century madonna of surpassing beauty. Another pleasure to recall was dining, on a night when the moon flooded the sea, on the terrace of the villa that General and Mrs. Spears took for the summer, between Can- nes and Saint Raphael, high up above the water. The hostess, who is Mary Borden and who wrote “Jane, Our Stranger,” had her table laid under a canopy of palm-trees, and candelabra burned along the balustrade in the still night to illuminate the scene of the feast. Night after night, there were small dinners or big parties, always under enchanted skies and twinkling stars, for it never rained. Sometimes, the parties were on yachts in the still harbours, and, again, up among the (Right) Maxim’s, at Juan-les-Pins, one of the most amusing boites in Europe, is a bright spot in the night-life of the summer Riviera. It has a tiny bar, tables and sofas, and a dance floor where one dances to the best jazz music in the South of France olive-trees on the hillside, where the fireflies made patterns to vie with the stars. Wonderful as the nights are, the days were their equal. The morning was given up to tennis and swimming. There are excellent courts at the new Tennis Club in Cannes and at the Hotel du Cap at Antibes, but, by noon they were deserted, for every one took to the water before lunch, and that was the high point of the day. Every one tried swimming at the beach at Juan-les-Pins (called the Bijou plage) and off the tiny sandy cove near Lord Aberconway’s famous villa, ‘“‘La Garoupe,” the villa that is shown in photographs on pages 88 and 89. But, in the end, every one agreed that the best bathing was off the rocks at the bottom of the garden of the Hotel du Cap. No one who has not seen this ideal spot can imagine the pleasure of swimming there. The steep rocks are terraced down to the sea, and, on the way down to the diving boards and landing- stage, there is a shallow swimming pool designed for the more timid beginners, who could enjoy their swim and still be present at the daily show by the expert divers and aquaplane “fans” who vied with one another. A brilliant coterie gath- ered at these rocks daily. Every morning, Lady Mend! took her lessons in the pool or swam onc to the raft and back. Mr. and Mrs. Philips Oppenheim came there for their morning plunge. Count and Countess Horace Pourtalés with their two children and the Prince and Princesse Jean Faucigny-Lucinge with their house guests, the Duca Della Verdura and the Marchesa Salinas, who, like Sir Charles Mendl, have always been devotees of the Lido, but have now succumbed to the summer charms of the Riviera, were all regu- lar attendants at the bathing rocks. Also among this gathering were Mrs. Somerset Maugham, who was staying with Lady MendI and, later, with the Lewisohns, Miss Natica Nast, Miss Ilka Chase, General and Mrs. Spears, Mrs, Yaun Boissevain, the Grand Duke Dmitri and the Princess Ilyinsky, who was the beautiful Miss Audrey Emery, the Misses Sanford, sisters of the famous “Laddie” of international polo fame, and the Princess Ghika and her daughter, Madame Weiller. This delightful crowd was made even more entertaining by the sprinkling of brilliant theatrical and motion-picture stars who are largely responsible for the present popu- larity of the Riviera in summer, for they were among the first to discover the charms of the cape under the summer sun. Any day, one could swim to the raft with Marilyn Miller, the star of the American pro- duction of “Sunny,” and Clifton Webb of the same memorable cast; Ina Claire, who is so pretty and unspoiled that it is difficult to be- lieve she is one of the great actresses of America; Nazimova of “movie” fame, who used to sit and dangle her feet from the raft, wearing a black and yellow jersey and a yellow bathing-cap; Rex Ingram and his wife, the beautiful Alice Terry; Rubye de Remer and her husband, Ben Throop, who are continually organizing jolly picnics at the Islands. Those days at the “Cap” can not be described without including Ben Finney and his famous dog, “Egon,” a star of the “movies.” This beautiful police dog is as great an expert at aquaplaning as his master, and, every morning about noon, they would dive in off the highest spring-board and aqua- plane to the applause of every one present. When one has seen the rocks at the Cap d’Antibes, terraced down to the sea, with a dozen different levels, each with a little nook shaded by umbrellas under which one has cocktails or tea while watching the diving; when one has watched the aquaplaning and groups of people, sunburned a deep mahogany, wearing the bright- est bathing-suits and the gayest pyjamas, one realizes that this is, indeed a scene to rival the Lido. COSTUMES AND CELEBRITIES In the way of pyjamas and bathing-suits, the fashions were especially intriguing. Miss Ina Claire took the honours. Her pyjama suit, from Mary Nowitzky, had enormously full trousers made of natural pongee with a chic little double- breasted jacket, like a man’s yachting jacket, in dark blue with a flower in the buttonhole. With this, she wore a huge straw hat and Russian straw sandals. This costume is sketched at the left, in the group at the right in the drawing on page 86. Marilyn Miller also had an attractive costume consisting of a long coat of black Chinese silk lined and faced in white, with which she wore white pyjama trousers and little red shoes. This costume is shown on the figure at the right in the sketch on page 86. Her name in white letters was embroidered across the breast-pocket of her jacket and on all her bath- ing-suits. The Princesse Faucigny-Lucinge ap- peared every day in a different coloured bath- ing-suit, always wearing a little American sailor's cap perched on top of her head. One day, her bathing-suit was bright canary-yellow, and, again, with a white top, she wore emerald-green trunks. Often, she and the Duca Della Verdura appeared like twins in the same bathing-suits, both wear- ing American sailor’s caps. Of course, no one wore beach robes to keep from being sunburned. They were worn only after changing from wet bathing-suits into dry ones for (Continued on page 156)

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VOGUE (Upper left) Southwest of the beautiful Built on the eastern slope of a penin- Upper right) An almond-tree of strange chateau built by Lord Aberconway on sula, the chateau has a glorious view twisted growth breaks the line of the the Cap d’Antibes, the grounds are of the Alps and the Mediterranean pergola at one end of the chateau and, laid out in formal English style. From The house is in the Provencal style of n its season, is a mass of delicate col- the marble fountain and curving seat, irchitecture and was designed by our. The planting is a lovely feature of ere is a charming glimpse of the house the late Sir Ernest George, R. A this estate in the Alpes-Maritimes FORD ABERCONWAY’'S CHATEAU

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October 15, 1927 G. R. Ballance, Mentone From the south hak onv of Lord and (U pp r right } The lodge at the entrance ( Upper left) A grassy walk leading from Lady Aberconway’s chateau, one looks to the grounds is built over the driv . ry er ] ( the chateau to the little fountain and and is in the old Provencal stvle and Tile seat is flanked by flowers. The mimosa towards the flight of marble steps that hlossoms in January, and pur ple primu- leads to the sea. Subtropical plants, covered with ivy. A gnarled and ancient las are planted beneath. Below the gar- mosa, and cypresses alternate with th olive-tree keeps guard at one side and t the slot dds a final touch of picturesqueness den, a rocky shore fringes the property tural flora growing on “Ea GAROUPE” AT ANTIBES

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\I (; 0) \\ \ \ N DD ih Rk s ss ne yr Se SS VOGUE

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CF ct 0 h e” ee Vik!

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mM ~w ME OR ie elias Dy PBS SE G05 eb te G. R. Ballance, Mentone Upper left) Southwest of the beautiful chateau built by Lord Aberconway on the Cap d’Antibes, the grounds are laid out in formal English style. From the marble fountain and curving seat, there is a charming glimpse of the house Built on the eastern slope of a penin- sula, the chateau has a glorious view of the Alps and the Mediterranean. The house is in the Provencal style of architecture and was designed by the late Sir Ernest George, R. A. (Upper right) An almond-tree of strange twisted growth breaks the line of the pergola at one end of the chateau and, in its season, is a mass of delicate col- our. The planting is a lovely feature of this estate in the Alpes-Maritimes LORD ABERCONWAY’S CHATEAU ia

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ee gee | ee 4 ey G. R. Ballance, Mentone (Upper left) A grassy walk leading from the chateau to the little fountain and seat is flanked by flowers. The mimosa blossoms in January, and purple primu- ias are planted beneath. Below the gar- cen, a rocky shore fringes the property From the south balcony of Lord and Lady Aberconway’s chateau, one looks towards the flight of marble steps that leads to the sea. Subtropical plants, mi- mosa, and cypresses alternate with the xatural flora growing o1 the slope (U pper right) The lodge at the entrance to the grounds is built over the drive and is in the old Provencal style and covered with ivy. A gnarled and ancient olive-tree keeps guard at one side and cécs a final touch of picturesqueness “ha GAROUPE” AT ANTIBES 89 es

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Hollander Master Francis Gowen is the smiling young son of Mrs. James E. Gowen, of Philadelphia. Mrs. Gowen is the former Miss Sally Drexel Henry, a daughter of Mrs. Gouverneur Cadwalader and a granddaughter of Mrs. Alexander Van Rensselaer MRS. JAMES E. GOWEN AND HER SON

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October 15, 1927 : Zamsky Mrs. Persifor Frazer, third, of Philadelphia, and her children, Bettina, Robert Glendinning, and _ Persifor Frazer, fourth, make charming subjects for this camera portrait. Mrs. Frazer is the former Miss Ellen Glendin- ning, a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Glendinning MRS. PERSIFOR FRAZER, THIRD, AND HER CHILDREN

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(Right) Mrs. John E. Par- sons, the former Miss Fanny Wickes, a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Forsyth Wickes, wears the tweed coat that is the smartest version of the autumn riding-habit International Newsreel Mrs. Millicent Rogers, whose marriage to Mr. Arturo Peralta Ramos, of Buenos Aires, takes place this month, wears the tailored suit that smart Euro- pean women favour Ly “Cll ULUlldMdddlld Herbert Photos as Fotograms UML “WM bi Miss QQ MAA Pictorial Press The tweed coat with collar and cuffs of badger worn by Miss Edith Woodward, a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Woodward, is a typically smart fashion note Priscilla Choate, a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Choate, junior, will make her début this season. Miss Choate has chosen the two-button weed coat for her habit MEMBERS of the SMART WORLD SPONSOR f¢hese AUTUMN MODES

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ceric. October 15, 1927 Hee = ba: Two photographs by Acme Newspictures Miss Marjorie Ocelrichs, the daughter of Mrs. Mar- jorie Oclrichs, wears a coat with the new shoul- der-line and loose sleeves. Mr. Thomas P. Fowler is with Miss Oelrichs ‘Right ) Miss Mary Ames, the daughter of Mrs. Frederick Lothrop Ames, of Boston, completes her semisports costume with one of the youthful short jackets of light leather Vd iy iy lly Lddliyyy Wty Lddlidlddiyyy i be y y y Uy “Wllltyy “Wllppyyy “dddy Herbert Photos Mrs. Ogden L. Mills, of New York and Washing- ton, is accompanied by her son, Philip S. P. Fell. Mrs. Mills’s costume, with the belt forming the blouse, has great chic The semisports costume worn by Miss Elizabeth Woodward, a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Woodward, is a prediction of the costumes for Southern resorts (Left) SEMISPORTS MODE IS WORN BY PEOPLE OF IMPORTANCE

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94 es FEE HEPES EEEEP ER TOTO HOT HEHBE Seng rn *?ee ee geeeseeeet” ‘ goo? wr? a? ee i adil * goourrrr” . al Steichen MRS. PHILIP ACOSTA CARROLL Mrs. Carroll is the former Miss Nina Ryan, a daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Barry Ryan and a granddaughter of the late Thomas Fortune Ryan. She has two very small sons Mr. and Mrs. Carroll divide their time between New York and “Doughreghan near Baltimore, Maryland—the historic home of Charles Carroll, of Car- ” Manor, rollton, built in 1740 VOGUE

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October 15, 1927 NE W FASHION-PLATES 95 FOUR Grie@ While We Can Not Help Admitting the Charm of the Modern Model as Drawn by the Modern Artist, We Feel a Sentimental Tenderness for Her Sweetly Painted Sisters of Long Ago long—, we can remember the eager interest that, as chil- dren, drove us to the drawing-room to look over our aunt’s fashion periodicals. “The French fashion papers have come,” we told one another at the pig-tailed period and trotted off instantly to beg for lovely ladies garmented in pale purple flounces, lace shawls, parasols, and bewitching shirred bonnets or, better still, in ball dresses like tulle balloons tufted with flowers. We made paper dolls of these, and, so that their lives should not be without romance, we got our uncles to bring us the latest thing in gentle- man’s fashions from their English tailors. Large families of the most genteel little boys and girls followed; and they all existed in a state of eternal, modish perfection. When we grew up, the words, “Marian Lonsdaie has just got her Paris trunks in,” sent us hotfoot to the Lonsdale’s house to see what the great Monsieur Worth had designed, and, as we looked at his charming creations, we mentally recreated our own wardrobes, for we, also, would fain have existed in a state of eternal, modish perfection, like our once beloved paper dolls, and we did—as far as possible. \ long as some of us can remember anything—which is pretty F course, designs now gain enormously by being displayed upon either pictured or practical young ladies of an extra- ordinary length of limb and beauty of face. But, even then, on lesser mortals of not unusual build, they had their lure and will always have. The words ‘French fashion-plates” conjure up vividly tinted, distinguished charmers, at leisure among sur- roundings of outdoor or indoor elegance. Thinking over favourite pages of the past, we seem to recall two young ladies, in moder- ately hooped skirts trimmed with tartan plaid, showing the little of their ankles that it was permitted in those days to show, on the very highest peak of a Swiss mountain. One was waving a hat, with a floating veil of filmy green attached to it; the other leaned on her alpenstock—as well she might after such a climb, although evidently unfatigued. IDICULOUS as those costumes and figures appear to us at present, they were drawn, engraved, and coloured as few magazines in the world can do them to-day, and the girls inside the costumes gave every indication of being well brought up. They were gentlewomen, deliciously and absurdly dressed for mountain climbing at a period when gentlewomen didn’t climb mountains, quite plainly of the highest rank, as well as on the highest ranges. And, indeed, in all the beautiful, bedizened, brightly foolish collection, which unfortunately ends in 1878 with some of Gustave Jener’s exquisite work, there were none in whom cne would not have discovered signs of what was called “‘tenué.” Curious, what line, feature, and general effect of figure, even disguised in hoop, bustle, and strange fixtures and furbelows, can suggest, when a man who knows what a lady is draws a lady—of any period. Wy HE good fashion artists of our times naturally do the same. The black-and-white beauties before our eyes are sometimes alluringly haughty, sometimes coldly seductive, and always ex- cessively chic. “‘Every person a personage,” one might say with truth. French artists, English artists, American artists show us modern fine ladies, less clothed than ever before (taking them all in all), yet carrying what they wear with natural ease and grace. Not, perhaps, with just the “genteelness” that the former fine lady exhibited when carrying her superfluity, but, if we and our like were children again, we should not lack for very smart paper dolls cut from the pages of the better periodicals. And yet—and yet-——smart as they are, do we find again anything, even among the best French coloured prints, to replace the exquisite, genteel idiots of old? LAS no! Women are so capable and active! Would they oc- cupy the middle of any tulle balloon that touched the floor about their mouse-like feet ? Would they hold their shoulders rigid and be content not to raise an arm beyond the point where its hand could rest upon a gentleman’s sleeve, as they did in the time of berthas? Would they consider themselves perfectly equipped for a winter afternoon walk in a costume with a long skirt that had to be upheld by frost-nipped fingers? Frozen feet and knees may be their portion to-day, but frozen fingers—how ridiculous! Perhaps, we shouldn’t have this affection for the sweetly painted old fashion-plates of our youth, the groups of grand, confectioned, noble, domestic ladies, the discreet single maidens picking fruit from sunny garden walls into baskets held by richly embroidered little girls in wonderful boots of lilac tipped with black; the stately women of the great world receiving at home in sweeping flounced costumes of dark velvet and pink silk; going out to visit in bustled red splendour; or to dance begarlanded in grapes and grape leaves over pale lemon satin and lace with several yards of stiffened train. Perhaps, we shouldn’t—, but we do love them. E are sure that our children have great difficulty with their paper-doll families. The mothers don’t sit at home in tinted swirls of silk. The daughters couldn’t climb delicately in hoops and Balmoral boots. The little girls wouldn’t be content to play in such stiffly voluminous skirts, with sashes passed over one shoulder and tied in a bow at the side. We have seen enchant- ing children in modern French magazines, some clever, gay young mothers, some beautiful indifferent girls, all hand-painted at that, but we don’t feel that they would be easy to manage. No romance we made up for them would suit them. They’d be capable of walking off and leaving us while we slept. While as for the beautiful, wilful, black-and-white creatures about us, they are even more removed from the tender traditions we have loved to cherish, much as they challenge our admiration. ?

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96 INETEEN-twenty-seven will be memo- rable in history for one reason, at least. It is the year, of the “Follies” coming of age. Born in 1906, Mr. Ziegfeld’s glorified child has reached its majority with an amazing record of achievement. Not the least of its startling quali- ties is precocity. The twenty-one years of life represent twenty-one successes and innumerable American girls glorified—the early batches are now middle-aged! It is the parent of the various Scandals, Vanities, and Padlocks, of the revue form itself, as we know it. Springing fully equipped from the head of Ziegfeld, time has not lessened its vigour, nor have imitation and com- petition affected its preeminence. It is now what it was in the beginning—the first of the revues. “ZIEGFELD FOLLIES” | pe first, of course, in everything. None of the others have been able to rival it in splendour, in prodigality, in a flair for colourful effects. But many are more ingenious, more in- ventive, blessed with better talent and greater originality. This latest edition is no exception: it maintains the prestige created by its predeces- sors, and it is excelied in many respects by its rivals. It is more ambitious than formerly. The pro- gram informs us: Glorifying the American Girl “He who glorifies beauty glorifies truth” with Eddie Cantor Oy DAvipn Care Two photographs by Steichen Ann Harding is the heroine of a new melodrama, “The People vs. Mary Dugan,” by Bayard Veiller, who wrote “The Thir- teenth Chair” VOGUE (Left) Eva Le Gallienne opens the second season of her Civic Repertory Theg- tre with “The Good Hope,” a translation from the Dutch. This year, Clare Eames will alternate with Miss Le Gallienne as direc. tor and star of the company ON THE rT \ The juxtaposition will strike most people as scarcely happy, but, perhaps, it has no signifi- cance. Cantor has eyes that can giggle and laugh and melt, a body pliable and expressive, and an abandon that enables him to coat with comedy things that are not comic in themselves. He is almost continuous'y amusing, and that can be said of only two of his sketches. The one called ‘The Star’s Double,” in which he burlesques the movie method of substituting poorly paid actors for the high-salaried ones for dangerous sho‘s, is uproariously funny. And “A Ballet Master's Idea of the Spoken Drama” is funnier still. His take-off of Mayor Walker is clever. He manages, also, to make merry the skit about the trans- Atlantic flight—the airplane is named Mosquito, the Spirit of New Jersey. Irene Delroy has the choicest feminine bits; she is not so good an actress or singer or dancer as she is pretty. Claire Luce, on the other hand, is both beautiful and accomplished; she has that indefinable thing known as personality. Stars have been made of performers much less capable than she. An uncannily versatile, lovely, and numerous chorus march and dance and play musical instru- ments and wear charming clothes charmingly. Dan Healy is as nimble as Jack Donahue. And Helen Brown will delight those who like to¢ dancing. There is a bewildering number of other talents and features. Irving Berlin’s music has little distinction. Two of the songs, “Maybe It’s You” and “It All Belongs to Me,” will doubtless be on most o! the phonographs and radios of the land before the season is out. Urban’s scenery is, as always colourful. But the composition honours go t0

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SUR llienne SON of Thea- Tope,” 1 the Clare > with direce npany as Lifi- ugh Br 3 « a . October 15, 1927 John W. Harkrider who is credited with having costumes. h of everything except humour, and what there is of that is topical. The appeal is largely to the eye. But, long before the evening the eye grows weary. The first part, in pink and winding up in golden clitter, has a zest and a freshness largely lacking in the second part. The show ends in the pink- with which it began. Were Mr. Ziegfeld less intent on outdoing splendour designed the There is too muc is over, beginning ness less lavish, itself— “A LA CARTE” “ @ LA CARTE” is the first musical endeavour of the woman who for years produced vaude- ville turns and who in rising to the “legitimate” brought George Kelly with her from the two-a- day—Rosalie Stewart. She made her bow to the theatre proper with his “The Torch-Bearers, followed that with his “The Show-Off’—one of our few significant plays—, and then presented Kelly’s tragedy, “Craig’s Wife,” which was awarded the Pulitzer Prize for its year. For “A Ja Carte,” she has taken him back to vaude- ville. He is responsible for three sketches—one amusing, the two others attempts to combine drama and vaudeville. Unlike “The Follies,’ “A la Carte” is smart and always pleasing to the eye without being weighed down by expensiveness. Also, it never descends to the wretched taste that Ziegfeld exhibits in a song, “Shaking the Blues Away,” that boasts the refrain: “All God’s chillun got blues Gonna shake all over God’s Heaven... »”» Charles Irwin is an unusually smooth and ver- satile performer. Bobbe Arnst does well what she attempts. Simeon Karavaeff and Lorelei Kendler are a fine dancing team. But the out- standing talent of the show—she would be of any show—is Harriet Hoctor. She has marvellous grace—the fourth dimen- sion, as some one near me remarked in an awed tone. She seems wafted about the stage by a breeze, her body so supple that it flutters without the faintest suggestion of effort, not the least trace of angularity. Every movement is fluid, diaphanous, intangible; each posture a transition from the one before to the one that follows, as soft, as gentle, as fragrant as a drifting rose petal. She is like delicate silk blown by tender winds, to movement what fine velvet is to touch. You see her, but you feel her more—she blends all the senses into one. My enthusiasm doubtless strikes those who have not felt Harriet Hoctor dance as intemper- ate, and, perhaps, it is. When one is so affected, temperance becomes a coward’s refuge. She is so splendid, so resplendent that after her appearance the rest of “A la Carte’—and this would be true of any show—seemed flat, gauche, crude. In the interest of fairness and temperance, I went a second time, and this is the result. “TENTH AVENUE” be dramas of the fortnight do not call for cheers, or even for much applause. Last spring, Chicago patronized “A Melodrama of New York’s Underworld” called “Tenth Avenue (Hell’s Kitchen).” Chicago must have been hard up for plays. For this one is melodrama with overmuch sentimentality, the two ingredients refusing to mix, the one negating the other. The Impression is, therefore, of a frantic, desperate surring that is futile; the labour produces just splashing. There are one or two exciting moments, but even they are automatic and not sustained. The piece is carefully constructed and nearly empty of entertainment. The authors are not solely to blame, however, for the poor showing the play makes. Three names have been corralled for the cast and, after seeing their performance—if you happen a -— familiar with the New York theatre—, you will wonder how they got their reputations. (Continued on page 118) Steichen Barbara Stanwyck and Hal Skelly are hardened troupers in “Burlesque,” a gay and_ melodramatic play of life on the “wheel” off-stage and on Florence Vandamm hace Exe “ed eddddddddddddddesdaa 97 (Left) Lois Bennett appears as Yum- Yum in “The Mi- kado,’’ the first addition this year to Winthrop Ames’s Gilbert and Sullivan repertoire

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a a BS ilsiasi

G. W. Harting Mrs. Joseph Larocque has used these peacock panels in the Colonial hall of her new apartment in Sut- ton Place. The design is of French origin and was widely used at the beginning of the last century T was in Perugia, on a spring day, as I sauntered about the deserted streets at the siesta hour, that I first came upon a striking picture in the window of a closed shop and found it to be a window-shade. But such a window- shade! It was brilliant in colour and charming in design. I asked many questions about it, but no one in Perugia had the least idea of its history. The shopkeeper was vague; it had hung there in his father’s day, more he did not know. Later, in small towns tucked off the main high- ‘road, I found other examples of these exquisitely designed shades, but always the same answer was repeated, “They have hung here for many years.” No new ones had been made, and every fl jp Y .

A MODERN USE OF AN OLD TYPE OF DECORATION PROVES EFFEC TI VE (Left) This exotic panel of tropi- cal verdure is more suitable for mural decorations than for window- shades. Its unusual decorative value makes it particularly desirable for use in a hallway or dining-room one had forgotten the origin of the old ones. Finally, my long search was rewarded. I found an old man who had inherited the original blocks from which the designs were printed. He lived with his son in quaint surroundings outside of one of the largest Italian cities, and these two were the sole possessors of the secret process of colour and illumination used in these shades. So amazed was I with the breadth of subjects treated, the variety of design, and the ur- doubted artistic value of the blocks that I deter- mined then and there to bring them to America. In Europe, fifty years ago, it was the fashion to have one’s window-shades in the character of the room. Country villas had landscapes, “lly <s

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ld ones. I found original printed. yundings ies, and le secret in these adth of 1 the un- I deter- \merica, fashion acter of es, city OGUR eiebg Aa aetea te October 15, 1927 An enchanting, colourful scene representing the Piazza San Marco in Venice, seen from the lagoon, appears on a window- shade in the Park Avenue apart- ment of Mrs. Stephen Olin houses, architectural or floral designs. At night, the windows took on the aspect of panels framed by curtains. From France and Spain, the various patterns drifted to Italy and there fell into disuse with the changing fashion. The designs are printed on loosely woven book-linen, tinted in pastel col- ours, and treated with chemicals that give them a translucent effect in the light. Another unusual point is that the process of printing is such that the pattern is exactly the same on each side of the material. Their translucent quality does not pre- vent them from making wall panels of great charm. They are applied to the wall, antiqued, and varnished, after which they are framed by a moulding that brings out the predominant tone in the picture. The effect is of an original mural painting and gives to the room a distinct character. If one lives in the country and has sporting interests, the dining-room may be panelled with a red- coated hunter leaping a fence by a slow- Tunning brook or with an old French pic- ture of a blunderbuss of sixty years ago hanging from a stag’s antlers. There are WAN WN S LQG old "9A, "’”=">F>="'#Fé"'fswwyng WOM MAND S ne SSS In Mrs. Stephen Olin’s apart- ment in Park Avenueisthis win- dow-shade with an old English chintz pattern on a buff ground, a design combining delightfully with the Chippendale furniture no more effective ways of treating the conventional walls of modern apartment- houses than by using these panels. The panels solve, also, the problem of what to do with the walls of temporary quarters, such as a room at college. Hung on lacquered poles, top and bottom, and suspended by a simple cord, they have great distinction. And it is very pleasant to be able to have a touch of one’s own personality about. One may unroll an Italian landscape, and there on the wall the blue waters*of the ‘Venetian lagoon shimmer perpetually. As screens, these designs are especially successful. The soft tones of the back- ground, the brilliant scenes, or the deli- cate bouquets strike a delightful note. They fill a gap between the ordinary wall-paper screen and one of great value. WANDEN MATHEWS. (Left) A sheaf of untied flowers on a soft pink ground makes an effective screen of a Colonial design, which would add colour to a sombre corner. This group was arranged by Mrs. Buel

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This table is entirely Set with exquisite, genuine old English silver. The double dish in the centre is one of a pair made in 1823; from Crichton EEE SANT NS Harvey White INCE it has become smart to abbreviate the ceremony of the evening meal, it is now very much more imperative that the menu should be perfectly selected and the food super- latively well cooked. For the time being, it is doubtful if dinners will be lengthened, for the women of to-day are trying to keep slim, and the men are anxious to be fit. Therefore, while there is truth in what Bernard Shaw says, “Many a clever man has dug his grave with his teeth,” this grim humour does not strike so closely home to most of us as it would have a few years ago. A good hostess should feel it an obligation and a privilege to superintend not only the menus in her house, but the cooking and the serving of the meals, as well. And yet, the average “lady of the house” often feels it beneath her dignity to have active cooperation with what goes on in her kitchen. This is one reason why there are not more delicious and _ intelligently selected meals. BREVITY—THE SOUL OF DINING The active lives the majority of people are leading make them take even their pleasures rather strenuously. Conversation is no longer an art, and society hurries through its dinner to rush to the theatre or opera, to dance or play bridge. When one is satisfied, one has finished. Three courses for lunch and four for dinner are adequate. In addition to the brevity of the meal itself, the food is usually far more simply cooked than it was twenty years ago, when one of the popular amusements was guessing what one was really eating hidden under the rich sauces and quaintly shaped pastries and embedded in the timbales—all served with an elaboration that was part of the day. CARL HOJTESIZ LYNans 1 Snall Dinner A very wise plan is to pick out each dinner dish carefully, to select what will make a happy com- bination as a whole, and choose the freshest and best quality that it is possible to obtain at the moment. And then, as a rule, except for one dish during the meal, which may be some excep- tionally delicious novelty, it is best to have the food simply cooked. Here is a suggestion for a short dinner that can be very quickly served. As an hors-d’ceuvre, tomato surprise may be served—a very large, bright red tomato, with the inside entirely re- moved and the shell stuffed with creamed crab- meat, with grated egg and parsley decorating the top. A clear consommé with cheese straws might be served next, followed by broiled spring chicken —a half for each person—, currant jelly, small new potatoes boiled and served simply with melted butter and sprinkled with parsley, and new peas well seasoned with salt, a pinch of sugar, and barely a pinch of soda. Half an avocado with French dressing makes an excellent salad, which may be served directly with the meat course and followed by frozen strawberries in spun sugar and venus torte cake. It is always appropriate to serve celery and both ripe and green olives after the soup and before the fol- The crystal glasses are engraved in leaf de- sign. These and the china are from Plum- mer. The linen is from Mosse; background designed by Mrs. Buel lowing course. This is a short dinner, and it may be noticed that it has the great advantage of immensely accelerated service. The tomato surprise is served on a plate to the guests, as is the soup. It is easy to help oneself to the half of broiled chicken; the potato and peas may be passed together on a silver tray, and the avocado is served on its plate. AN EXCELLENT CONSOMME A shin of beef and a shin of veal, or what the butchers call a “knuckle of veal,” are ordered well cracked from the butcher. These are then wiped carefully with a damp cloth, and the meat is removed from the bones and cut into blocks Two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a sliced onion are put into the soup kettle to brown and bum, then the meat from the veal and beef is added. When this is carefully seared, the bones and five quarts of cold water are added. The kettle is covered; the mixture is brought slowly to the boiling-point and skimmed. The kettle is then placed over a moderate fire where the soup will just bubble, not boil, for three hours. At the end of this time, one onion into which have beet stuck twelve cloves, a bay-leaf, a sliced carrot, a few green tops of celery or half a teaspoonful of celery seed, and a saltspoonful of pepper a added. The mixture is then covered and allowed to simmer gently for another hour. These vege tables may be saved and used for purée. (A witt vegetable ball is a convenience.) The stock 1 strained and left to cool. When it is cold, every particle of fat is removed from the surface, and it is ready for use. If it has been carefully made, this consommé will be clear, brown, transparent and, when cold, in the form of a thick jelly. (Continued on page 132) « :

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VOGUR glasses are 2 leaf de- p and the rom Plum- 1en is from ackground ‘Mrs. Buel or, and it advantage 1e tomato guests, as o the half 1s may be e avocado what the e ordered are then the meat to blocks ced onion ind burn, is added. ; and five kettle is ly to the » is then soup will t the end ave been d carrot, spoontu! ‘pper are | allowed ese vege- (A wire stock is ld, every ace, and ly made, isparent, elly. October 15, 1927 REBOUX (Right) The close-fitting turban is one of the outstanding milli- nery notes,and Reboux is one of its chief exponents. This one in two shades of red velvet, dregs- of-wine and dull rose, is draped to create a point over one eye and a beret effect over the right ear; imported by Bendel SSW pe =—'’_£ln nr ye er —"”' $s ' Yj Ya QW "”7"F”F’"7.F£xn rr TU (Above) This model of black velvet and of green-and-silver lamé ends in a huge bow over one ear, as do many of the smart new hats; imported by Bendel. The coat shown in both of these photographs is of broadtail cut on straight lines, with the fa- voured shawl collar of silver fox

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(Left) The chinchilla coat is the utmost achievement in elegance for evening. This model is especially success ful in that each of its fea- tures has been chosen to create the smartest silhouette ~ oe of the new season. The long shawl collar that frames the face, the deep armhole, and the very slim hip-line ae © all in keeping with the classic beauty of the model aS and are also the newest © ae notes of the fur coat mode; , ae “ from Revillon Freres 6 ‘ wl hey This Thin Mearks Teh

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OGUR October 15, 1927 a, villa coat (Right) Dark castern mink vevement continues to be a criterion ing. This § of luxury in daytime furs. SUCCESS This coat is cut on straight Us fea- lines and fashioned with tosen to the new collar that frames ilhouette © the face. (Extreme right) The long © Black baby lamb is the ames the & most distinguished daytime ole, and fur of the season. The long line are shawl collar of silver fox is ith rs e, cleverly set off from the e mode neck of this luxurious coat newest by facings of ermine dyed t mode; a a light grey; from Stein reres q and Blaine . COLLARS A Re os Mut Sight of Gir Olegance G,. Ye

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og C* . P \\ WA \\ c y ~* y @s » - y Ses \\ ee - , ~ gm Xe @ . AW 6 Fees 2c / MBL - hoo Awe ek & . &. woe "ss ¥ a a t fo \ i x \ es NWS A AD \ Vv : was (1) Black and white flecked with colours; Lowe Donald, London. (2) Loosely woven tweed in white, black, and red; Sweetinburgh, London. (3) Novelty; Sweetinburgh. (4) Beige and white, snowflake spots; used by Fortnum and Mason, London. (5) Beige and brown; Lowe Donald. comparatively new thing. Only a few years ago, the world of fashion had not awakened to its possibilities. Then, the Scotch tweed, in fact, all tweed, was employed to build men’s clothes; and if used for women’s clothes, it was confined to sports things of the most rugged type. And only the British wore these. The French caricaturist would have sadly missed this form of covering in his unkindly delineations of unchic and angular British femininity. The War changed many things, and the mode is always influenced by the spirit of the times. Post-War dress declared that the beautiful and the practical must be reconciled; then the French couturiers adopted the tweed. This acted like a magic wand; the tweed blossomed into a new versatility of design and colour. To-day, tweed is one of the most important woollen fabrics; new designs are created every season and guarded jealously before their appearance. Chanel, an important influence on the mode, whose clothes are invariably simple, practical, GS comer tweed as a fashionable fabric is a THe LATC/T GODCHILO OF THE FRENCH ‘eg mE Sn FA > eee Se Am es P N\\\ ae » 4 rot z. ma % 5 Se ee % q al 4 | by) Vy lj (6) The spot motif enclosed by orange cross lines on dark brown; John G. Hardy, London. (7) Diamond motif in white on dark red; used by Fortnum and Mason, London. (8) Fair Isle de- sign in shades of grey and blue, and (9) in reds, brown, and white; both from John G. Hardy and beautiful, is making a feature of models of Scotch tweed in her recent collections. Some of these appeared in the summer, and still more are shown in her autumn collection. Vionnet also showed a considerable number of tweed models last season, and outstanding for smartness among these was a coat in black-and- white tweed rather loosely woven. It had a fur collar to match, shading from grey into white. O’Rossen is using Scotch tweed for a large number of his tailleurs. Patou is making many of his sports costumes of this material. In — nearly all Paris is godmother to the Scotch tweed. London might be called its foster-mother. __ The weaving of tweed seems to be something that the British Isles can still do better than the rest of the world. For autumn, the tendency '8 for very large or very small rather er designs. The colours seem to have been produce to melt into the landscape: there are beiges, browns, dull reds, blues, bottle-greens, and ee rious combinations of grey and blue, black an white, grey and white, and beige and brown. Med ho5 i eae ) ae 5 3 Fb & YY . ~ 2 a . wt ayy) VE tt. “ee da sta 5 eile

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at es October 15, 1927 | i fer = tvening Frock No. 9157 This one-piece evening frock of sheer vel- vet has a skirt with long drapery at the left side. There are two narrow belts with jewelled buckles, and blouse and skirt are joined under the lower one. Petal trim- ming falls from one shoulder. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 44 Desis LL T° PD acl LACKACa a Evening Frock No. 9158 Georgette crépe fashions this sleeveless evening frock—a_ particularly graceful model for dancing, because of the circular cape section that falls from a deep U- shaped neck in back and the skirt with circular sides and four deep points. De- signed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 42 UNEVEN HEM-LINES ADD LENGTH OF LINE FOR EVENING tent ee te

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Frock No. 9159 This one-piece frock of wool george:te has an inverted pleat at the front of the skirt, which joins the sectional blouse under a belt. The sleeves are kimono cut in front and raglan in back. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 44 Frock No. 9169 Contrasting surfaces are still extremely chic when they are as skilfully arranged as in this trim frock using both sides of crépe satin. The two narrow belts are a good detail of the new season. Design- cd for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 46 Z Des (gns ’ I* Phuitiuul .* : om aking Junior Misses’ Frock No. 9161 Three bows at the side closing of the blouse and a tucked section below a curved slash in the skirt add great interest to this very wearable one-piece frock of velvet. The sleeves may be long or short. Designed for sizes 13, 15, and 17 years BOWS AND DIAGONAL BANDS ARE STILL VERY SMART

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October 15, 1927 Designs 4ractical ( Dre. Som akin Uy ca l Junior Misses’ Frock No. 9160 Frock No. 9162 Coat No. 9170 the A narrow flounce is cut in one piece with There is an air of distinguished simplici- Suéde cloth fashions this long coat trim- ved the circular cascade that continues to the ty about this crépe satin frock. Fan- med with collar, cuffs, and a band of to right of the waist-line, then to the left, shaped tucks at the circular skirt front, fur. It has wrapped fronts and a low of and across the back to the right a skirt yoke, hemstitching, and inverted side closing, and the sleeves are raglan ov. 3 shoulder on this semi-sheer crépe frock. tucks in back are smart features. Design- in front and kimono cut in back. Design- ars 4 Designed for sizes 13, 15, and 17 years cd for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 46 cd for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 46 SURPLICE LINES DISTINGUISH NEW FROCKS AND COATS

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Frock No. S3172 Very new in the details of its cut is this one-piece frock of wool crépe with a double-tiered skirt joined to the blouse under a nar- row belt. The set-in sleeves have inside cuff sections. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 46 Frock No. S3171 (Upper left) The novel cut gives great distinction to this velvetcen frock. The blouse has a bolero effect at the right side front and side-back, and the skirt has a front pleat below snug-fitting hips. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 44 Ensemble No. S3174 (Right) This sleeveless eve- ning gown has a separate cock- tail jacket to match, shown at the right. The frock has a cir- cular insert below the buckled belt, a smartly irregular hem- line, and a U-shaped décolle- tage. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 46 HERE ARE THE NEWEST DETAILS OF Evening Frock No. $3173 (Middle) Sheer velvet is a lovely fabric for this sleeveless evening frock with a U-shaped décolletage, a tied girdle of metal cloth, and long.drapery at one side of the irregular hem-line. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 42 Ensemble No. $3174 (Extreme right) The jacket that completes this evening ensemble has snug-fitting hips, irregular crossed fronts, and a narrow straight collar. It trans- forms the evening gown into a suitable afternoon costume for tea or dancing. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 46 Designs Se, reramaking VOGUR \ ev new interest in intricacy has its peril A bad design that is simple can not wt : bad as a design that has the wrong king a intricacy. On a well-handled geometric deaias such as the evening gown shown in the kel below, the lines flatter the figure and the flarin sections fall as fabric wants to fall, wither distortion. The successful gown must be grace- ful, as well as geometric. A little long-sleeved jacket, designed to accompany this gown is buttoned tightly at the hip-line and carries out the correct up-in-front movement. When the jacket is worn, the costume bridges the gap be- tween day and evening. The taut hip-line is cleverly achieved by the treatment of the double girdle on the gown sketched in the middle of this page, with jts original arrangement of slashes. The unevenness at the hem-line is smart, as is the deep oyaj cut of the neck opening. The two models sketched at the upper left show the continued success of the belted frock, The one-sided bolero is an interesting detail of — the one at the left in the group, as is also the square-cut neck-line, which, besides being a very new detail of the mode, is extremely becoming to the majority of women. The tiered skirt of the other model suggests the lengthened tunic that is gaining in importance. Both frocks, which are ~ of the tailored type, have long sleeves correct in cut and not too fitted in outline. THE

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1927 OGUR october 15, its perils, not be as ee | Appetites sparkle whe the sketch the flaring ; Without be grace- Ey ng-sleeved a gown, js fe arries out Vhen the € gap be- d by the the gown with its nevennesg deep oval pper left ted frock. detail of _ also the — LOOK FOR THE RED-AND-WHITE LABEL ¥ . are A aft ~ ¥ oe CAMPBELL SoUP COMPANY y / “ig CAMDEN, NJ S As ee n this tomato soup is served ! It’s a bright, cheerful invitation to your appetite. A perfect picture for the eye. A perfect treat to your sense of taste. Every spoonful of Campbell’s Tomato Soup is just so much pure, healthful sunshine. Fresh, radiant and full-ripe come the meaty, juicy tomatoes to the famous Campbell’s kitchens. Here each tomato is washed five times in crystal-clear running water. In colanders of pure ‘nickel with mesh as fine as pin-points, the tomatoes are strained to a smooth puree. aos So in this soup is all the rich tomato goodness. It contains only those portions of the tomato... the luscious “meat” and _ tonic juices .. . which are nourishing, appetizing and digestible. The blend is still more enriched with golden country butter. The last fine touch is given by the delicate seasoning of Campbell’s skilled French chefs. ‘Then the soup is a complete masterpiece . ..a chal- lenge to your appetite . . . with a flavor that is irresistible. “Tt tastes so good.” “It’s so refreshing.” “I like it better than any other soup.” “There’s a real tang in its tomato flavor.” “They have the flavor of it just right... not too sharp, not too tame or flat.” Mee Pd These are some of the comments often heard about Campbell’s Tomato Soup. They show how perfectly it answers the public taste and what an ideal soup it is for the family table. And what a wonder- ful Cream of Tomato Soup is pre- pared with Campbell’s by follow- ing the simple directions on the label ! 12 cents a can. WITH THE MEAL OR AS A MEAL SOUP BELONGS IN “THE DAIL® viet —

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HE idea of making two or more versions of the same design offers great scope for in- Phosigns dividual preferences. One’s likes should not carry ag EY ay one outside the field of fashion, but one may choose between two smart blouses like those shown in the sketch at the lower left on this page. There is also freedom of choice in the treatment of the lower part of the sleeves. One would do well to make two blouses from the same design and increase the diversity of the ensemble by wearing them with skirts of different types. The collarless version might be in one of the new sheer woollen materials, and the lace- trimmed one in transparent velvet. A costume buiit up from a separate blouse and skirt is often an excellent choice for a woman of unusual proportions. The frock at the upper right on this page gives an opportunity for contrast of tone or of surface. Two tones of the same colour or two closely re- lated colours are smarter than an actual contrast. A good alternaie choice of fabric would be crépe satin, using bo‘h surfaces instead of two sep- arate shades. Another smart way of combining two tones and using a diagonal line is shown in the middle of page 106. The bits of contrasting fabric on the design in the middle of this page suggest the combination of silk crépe incrus- tations on wool jersey with an angora finish. This well-cut model, though extremely simple in design, is very smart and is of a type that will give much practical service during the late autumn and winter months, in town and out. Frock No. 9163 A shaped insert in a contrast- ing shade is a smart detail of this one-piece frock of crépe faille. There are darts at the neck front’ and ‘back, and _ the front of the skirt is pleated in a new manner. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 42 Frock No. 9163 (Above, right) The shaped in- sert in this very wearable crépe Frock No. 9164 (Middle) This one-piece jersey frock is pleated at each side be- THESE FROCKS ARE FOR FIGURES OF low the buckled belt. The sleeves are kimono cut in back and rag- lan in front, and there are paich pockets and a straight turned- over collar. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 46 Blouse No. 9166 Skirt No. 9167 (Extreme left) This velvet blouse and skirt, especially be- coming to a woman with a small bust and large hips, feature a sur- plice closing with a shawl lapel and scarf end, and circular panels. Designed for sizes 16 to 20 years and 34 to 46; skirt, 28 to 49 faille frock continues to a point in the back and gives a smari bolero effect. There is a narrow buckled belt—a chic feature this season. Designed for sizes 14 to 20 years and 32 to 42 Blouse No. 9166 Skirt No. 9168 (Left) This version of the blouse at the left is in crépe and is becoming to a woman with a large bust. It is worn with a skirt cut a on one side, for a woman with small hips. Designed for sizes 16 to 20 years and 34 to 46; skirt, 28 to 4 VARIOUS TYPES Connecticut ; Toronto, Ontario. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, lingerie, or miscellaneous patterns; patterns; 65 cents for each frock, evening frock, long coat, or négligée een may be purchased from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois; or 523 Mission Street, San Francisco, California; in Canada, 70 Bond Street. Greenwich, 40 cents for children’s ; special patterns, $1 —

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IGUE us $4 f din crepe 4 point Re smart arrow ature Sizes 19 42 the > and ith a th a side, hips. er 15, 1927 with fire. . . . Crimsons like sudden sunsets burst and fade. There is a glimpse of hot Italian skies. A flash of orange deepens into violet, merges to mauve, rekindles into green. . . . Trembling, pulsating like a living thing, it sports with light — this jewel that holds all gems within its heart. It is this quality of prismatic irides- cence, of infinite variety and fascina- tion, which gives to the black opal its extraordinary position among precious stones. For each of these rare jewels is unique. No two will glow or scin- tillate alike. Mysterious, smouldering with internal fire, they never pall, are never twice the same. In the selection and mounting of WM. ELDER MARCUS, Jr. At the corner of Fifth Avenue and 45th Street, New York, and Palm Beach THE DARK FLAME IT BURNS with an unearthly beauty, shot MARCUS & COMPANY JEWELERS these distinctive gems, Marcus & Com- pany are originators and _ pioneers. Here, twenty years ago, were exhibited the first black opals ever discovered. Here is maintained the finest collection of black opalsin the world . . . of inter- est not only to those whose birth-month is October, but to all who know that deep and indefinable stirring which one may experience in the possession of such a lovely jewel. Black opal brooches $7800 to $135, rings from $3000 to $25, pendants from $3000 to $375, bracelets from $900 to $575, earrings from $600 to $325, scarf pins from $450 to $35. In addi- tion, a wide selection of exceptionally fine unset black opals from $3500 to $25, suitable for special mountings. CHAPIN MARCUS

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A Marvelous Beauty Bath Discovery Sensational in Immediate Results OU would never be- lieve that a beauty bath with such startling results could be so inex- pensive. At practically a cent a bath you have a skin rivaling the velu- men of an orchid petal. By merely taking two or more handfuls of LINIT —(the scientific starch discovery sold by grocers) and swishing it intoa half tubful of moderately warm water—bathing in the usual way using your favorite soap—step- ping out of the tub— drying off—and—— Presto!—Feel your skin —in texture it is soft and smooth as the finest satin and in elasticity and suppleness it is perfect. Starch from corn is the main ingredient of LINIT and, being a pure vegetable product, is absolutely harmless. In fact, starch from corn is generally recom- mended by doctors for the tender skin of new- born babies. ates VERY IMPORTANT TO YOU! wie HE fact that LINIT is sold by grocers as the finest laundry starch and is also recommended for use as a remarkable beauty bath, may seem rather far- fetched to some women — however, the statements made above are endorsed by leading chemists and dermatologists. AARAAAAA( Merely ask your grocer for a package of LINIT and follow the above suggestions LINIT is so economical that at least you should give it a trial. Let the re- sults speak for themselves. S27 VS VY YI WY YH YH WY I WM IMPORTANT: Should you experience any difficulty procuring LINIT, please write Corn Products Refining Co., Dept. V, 17 Battery Place, New York City. Being a comparatively new product, LINIT is not as yet widely distributed. | preparations is HE modern—or modernistic— trend in the appearance of toilet increasingly strong. Especially is this seen in containers. A new ensemble in perfume, powders, and lipstick is a case in point, and it found marked favour with smart women from the moment it was first presented in a well-known Fifth Avenue specialty shop. The extract is of the sophisticated bouquet type and is held in a jet-black bottle of modernistic shape capped with silver metal. This perfume comes in an attractive grey suéde and silver box and is priced at $15. A simple bottle of toilet-water to match this fragrance costs but $2.50. The compact powder for the purse is a delightful accessory—a smooth round box of jade or coral composition, priced at $2.50 or $3.50 when in a grey suéde case. The powder is fine and delightfully scented, and the mirror has the virtue of showing the whole face reflected in it. A fine loose face powder, in flesh, rachel, or white, may be had in a decorative paper box for the dressing- table, at $2.50. The lipstick in this set is an achievement in less than two inches—alluring and practical. It may be had at $1 in red, amber, green, or black composition, and its rouge is smooth and pleasing. A BRILLIANTINE OF MERIT Brilliantine is not simply a casual necessity for certain occasions or cer- tain types of hair. On the contrary, it has its place as an article to be used daily, both for the good looks of the coiffure and for the benefit that the hair and scalp may derive. The fastid- ious woman demands a brilliantine that leaves no trace of grease or oiliness, nor any matting or streakiness of the hair. It is quite possible to have a product that is ideal in these respects, and one also that is beneficial to the scalp. The one referred to is quickly assimi- lated by the hair and is warranted to contain no alcohol, animal fats, water, petrolatum, or any injurious chemical. It should be sprayed on the hair each day, and, for this purpose, its bottle is equipped with an atomizer. If preferred, of course, the spray may be directed on the comb or on the palm of the hand —whichever one’s favourite way of applying a liquid brilliantine may be, it is easily accomplished. The _bril- liantine evaporates quickly, but it leaves each strand of hair with a new bril- A dressing-table accessory that is beautiful, practical, and of very generous size is this Corday atomizer. The lower part is of glass with a graceful design of knecling sprites, and the top is of gold metal with a plunger top. This atomizer will not get out of order and may be locked for travelling; $7.50 [ON HER DRESSING-TABL} liance—to say nothing of making the hair more tractable. With the atomizer the price is $1.50; without the atomizer 75 cents. This is an economical pro- vision, for the atomizer top, onc purchased, can be transferred to th refill bottles. FOR LOVELY HANDS There is an undeniable satisfaction z enjoyed by the woman who surveys he hands and finds her nails rosy and [ shiningly well kept. Indeed, unless she © attends regularly to the important rit of the manicure, her hands will fer clumsy, heavy, things to be concealed rather than used gracefully. A New York manicurist whos smartly frivolous little shop is always busy with the to and fro of well-please! clients says that not only the weekl manicure, but unremitting care is i necessity to beautifully groomed hand: In her salon, the nails and the cutic! receive the proper professional treal- ment—resulting in the almond-shape nails of pinkish hue by which chi hands are recognized. Then, usuall the client is provided with whatevt hand preparations she wishes to ws at home. Of especial merit are the tw FF Parisian preparations that are applic together to keep the skin of the hand soft and white. One is a cooling liquié with which the hands are dampened generously. Immediately, a white creat is squeezed from a tube on the back 0 the hands—and the mixture is rubbed in thoroughly. This is the procedure followed in the salon at the close "| the manicure, and the results art gratifying that one instantly resolves § to follow the same régime at home whenever the hands are washed. The two preparations together cost »= The nail enamel is also from a not’ French maker, and the tint is adjust to suit the individual preference. Whet starting on a journey, it is convent! to have one’s own set of nail enamel three bottles holding tint, varnish, oe remover. These sets, with the desi shade of tint, may be procured at Imported novelties and alluring *# sian lingerie may also be found in & salon. stamped, 8° Informal Lexing a Y or qt addres Upon receipt of a addressed envelope, Vogue Service, Graybar Building, Avenue at 43rd Street, New will be glad to furnish the of the places mentioned.

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BLL making thi le atomizer 1e atomizer mical pro- top, one Ted to th = a DS eae satisfaction surveys her ; rosy and § unless she portant rit ls will fee - concealed rist whos > is always vell-pleased the weekly care is 3 med hands the cutie! onal. treat: ond-shapet which chit n, usual h whatever shes to us are the two Fe are applied Fe f the hands oling liquid 5 - dampenet vhite creall the back 0 e is rubbed i > procedure 5 he close o! ults are 9 tly resolves § i e at home ashed. The cost $3.2 rom a noted is adjust ence. Whet - convenict! i] enamel rarnish, a the desi! ured at * uring Pat yund in ts Bl oat # mped, s Informal , Lexing » York Cis re addres ' countries or among her own | ognizes the significance of every discusses Beauty in the Courts of Europe VIVID, arresting personality is the Infanta Eulalia. A true princess of the reigning | Spanish family, she possesses not alone its charm ) but its traditional daring and forcefulness of ) character—that indestructible spirit which has © been the mark of the Spanish Royal family since > the days of Ferdinand and Isabella. Unlike most women of royal birth, whose lives | are restricted by the formalities of court, Infanta Eulalia has seen the world, has made friends in every walk of life, has pursued her own activities. And always, whether as Royal visitor to the courts of other beloved people of Spain, she rec- note of the life about her. O she speaks with experience and knowledge when she emphasizes the importance to a woman—especially to one whose life centers in court circles—of cultivating her loveliest attri- butes, of learning how she may keep the fresh beauty of her skin. Her Royal Highness ULAL nfanta of Sain LA hundred years A glimpse of the Infanta in lace mantilla, on her way to mass, in Madrid. She is staunch in her devotion to the faith of her country and of her family—the Bourbons, which has been the reigning house of Spain for more than two “Life in the courts of Europe,” she says, “demands much of a woman, especially that poise and assurance which birth and posi- : tion give, but which must be aie supported by exquisite personal peas of - : attributes. The daily use of ae oa reir Pond’s Two Creams,” she con- ails carn: cludes with wisdom, “leads to this assurance.’ ER Royal Highness Eulalia is not unique in a this conclusion. Leading women every- i ome completely in accord with her. Seek- = est means of keeping their complexions rammeled by the strain of modern life, thou- riggs found it in the Two Creams made by deh 1s. Used as follows daily these fragrant iclous creams will bring to you that most ex- quisite personal attribute—a clear youthful skin: These are the Two Creams, so delicately pre- pared from exquisite ingredients, that highly born women the world around choose them Her Royal Highness, Inranta Euuaia of Spain aunt of the King, has traveled widely, lived in every country in Europe and once visited the United States. Her opportunities for observation and her keen intel- lect give her an exceptional understanding of Euro- pean society. Her book, “ Courts and Countries After the War,” is replete with penetrating comment. ero Cleanse your skin and keep it fresh and supple by using Pond’s Cold Cream. Upon retiring and often during the day, whenever your skin feels dusty, drawn, tired, pat this light cream on generously. Let it remain a few moments. Its fine pure oils penetrate the pores, removing all dust and powder. Wipe off. Repeat. Finish with a dash of cold water. If your skin is dry leave some of the cream on after the bedtime cleansing to restore suppleness. A Final Touch of Loveliness R that exquisite last touch of loveliness, that radiance and finish which you need for evening and when you go out, apply Pond’s Vanishing Cream lightly. Do this after every daytime cleansing, always before you powder, and before going out into wind or dust. This cream, even more than Pond’s Cold Cream, has pleased the Infanta Eulalia of Spain, who exclaims: “Of all the Creams I have used, nothing has given me such a sense of freshness as Pond’s Vanishing Cream.” Free Offer: Mail this coupon for free sample tubes of Pond’s Two Creams with instructions Tue Ponp’s Extract Company, Dept. X, 110 Hudson Street, New York Name___— = Street_ sg ees 7 CA a es ee

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MODES FOR VARIOUS OCCASIONS IN THE LIVES OF THE YOUNGER GENERATION Blouse No. 2748 | : Bathrobe Bloomers No. 2750 No. 2749 ¥ : A double-breas. For gymnastic BY ed bathrobe | hours, this mid- | |) gee a small boy thay | dy blouse of ae " be of flanneliaih © white drill and a ; anapplied pockt, bloomers of dark shawl collay ant | serge are practi- set-in sleepel, | cal. Designed for is BY () Designed forsian sizes 6 to 14 years © ne 4 to 14 jean | Drawers No. 2752 (Above, left) These French drawers are of batiste and have a draw-string at the cen- tre back and snugly fitting legs. Designed for sizes 2 to 10 years Coolie Coat No. 2751 (Above, right) Wool challis fashions this coolie coat, with the band and embroidery motif No. 506 in a contrasting shade. Designed for sizes 2 to 14 years Négligée No. 9165 Frock No. 274 . Ee: ‘ : : re ii Ruchings of the fabric trim this This two-piece jersey frock Me howlde' one-piece taffeta négligée. It has tucks below the raglan s Tilt’ a low side closing and a conve- and pleats in the _ ott nient patch pocket. Designed for No. 559 embroiders ae a W sizes small, medium, and large Designed for sizes 6 to

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Bathrobe No. 275 double-breag. | bathrobe jo | small boy thay of flannelteii ' applied pockt, awl collar, anf t-in sleeper, signed forsigs to 14 jeg F ee frock hw showldet ; rt. Ini? Sie he pockt: sé hod awe - Fi ee yt ft 64a7e7 1@ @5F. 144 4 ‘ An the dates de uve of the Freneh Line's Hlagskip wis | i My TRAN CE QUEEN of the Seas is the ILE DE FRANCE... newest and most sumptuously splendid of the Vida J i / 4 a oa ° ? French Line Ss express steamers. Pierre Patou designed her Sreat dining hall aca Sué et Mare her grand salon Be eile Lalique wrought her loveliest glass + Rodier her most beautiful draperies. With the looms of the world at her command, the bed linens for her suites de luxe were selected not in Lille or Lombardy, Belfast or Lancashire, but from New Bedford’s finest of fine cottons... Wansutta Percale sheets and pillow Cases. WAMSUTTA ‘The beautiful appearance and smooth, pleasant surface of Wamsutta p E RCA LE S H - ETS Perc : ale sheets make them ideal where the ultimate in sleeping comfort 1s desired, Our passengers are delighted; our selection was a fortunate one.” AN D PILLOW CAS ES ef From a letter from the Marine Superintendent of the French Line, who has lo THE FI NEST OF COT TONS sO i : : ° ‘ equipped the finest suites of the Paris and the France with W amsutta m AY ) 14 AMSUTTA MILLS, Founded 1846, New Bedford, Mass. * » RIDLEY WATTS & CO., Selling Agents, 44 Leonard Street, New York City

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VOG0; 0c Ne Sy N THE NEW BAGS SUCCEED IN BEING SIMPLE. YET NOVEL IN DETAIL le Me Mea Me asa a de $s ‘Lita ee ReGen eee oe ers ey re tee te. Pte Rs i I a ee wiry be 00 BAGS FROM KURZMAN 1. An envelope made of soft dull red leather with a very simple closing is a smart new bag for autumn costumes 2. Drecoll puts three tucks, 3. This black suéde bag de- widely spaced, inthis attractive signed by Callot has a pencil bag of black velvet with round- and perfume bottle in the frame ed edges anda gold metal frame and a_ gold metal buckle 4. Lanvin added a top frame 5. Lelong calls this smart of gold metal in an unusual bag “Lunette.” It is of quilted design to this bag of black black suéde with a gold metal velvet with scalloped ends top in an effective design ae ee ee ; o pr fi — ; > fin de fo th sn gil

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Guests find unusual thoughtfulness ; surprising services. . .Cannon Towels 1) : eaneece nen we ’ WHENEVER you meet traveled people, you » find someone who has visited the “Land of 4 CANNON ~ TOWELS Absorb quickly-Wea AN a re ywell~Cost less initial price is low for a really superior towel, and replacement costs are reduced, the Sky” and who knows the Grove Park ) Inn at Asheville. Chances are, that person » 's still talking about the spectacular scenery of the a Blue Ridge Mountains and the exceptional hospitality E of this. resort hotel . . . its southern cooking, its | Interesting golf course. ; In line with its policy of making one’s vacation | delightful and memorable, and its fine consideration for good, old-fashioned comfort, the management of the Grove Park provides all the bathrooms with snowy fresh Cannon towels, and plenty of them. : ease you travel in the United States, you dis- é €r Vannon towels in the bathrooms of most of the mind a . . . It is no secret in the hotel world dieeas og cause a great deal of satisfaction. er “ them because they are good-looking and mons Ouse. The management likes them for the reasons and their very evident economy. The C= SS Fe =. New Cannon Lighthouse turkish towel; borders— pink, blue, gold, green, lav- ender. Price about $2. for these heavy, well-woven towels with- stand constant laundering and hard wear. When you visit friends, you will also find Cannon towels in their bathrooms. Women who manage their homes efficiently and who buy wisely have long since learned the many merits of Cannon towels. A number of new patterns are very decorative and lend a colorful* touch to the bathroom. Also ll- white Cannon towels, and Cannon towels with colored borders, conventional designs and stripes. Everything you can ask for—from the handy hucks to the big turkish towels and bath mats. In depart- ment and dry goods stores everywhere—at prices that will please you, 25c to $3.50. Cannon Mills, Inc., 70 Worth Street, New York. *All colors in Cannon towels and bath mats guar- anteed absolutely color-fast. ee

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é Edward Thayer Monroe ERGDORF OODMAN 616 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK Z \ Bergdorf-Gocdman presents this lovely gown of imported printed velvet in black and beige. SEEN ON THE (Continued from page 97) Edna Hibbard is unbelievably bad— she speaks her lines, and that’s about all. She handles the first act climax with an amateur’s tameness and with none of the amateur’s explosive excite- ment. Frank Morgan, supposed to be a crook in a crook’s lodging-house, affects an elegance quite out of char- acter; he behaves as though he were slumming. Of course, he is a reformed card-shark and thus more _ polished than the bootleggers and gunmen about him, but, even so, he is ludicrously out of place and out of key. The rédle of Elzy Everetts is en- trusted to William Boyd, who, as Ser- geant Quirt in “What Price Glory ?,” set us afire. This Elzy is made stupid by the authors, but Boyd goes them one better: the way he plays him, Elzy does not seem intelligent enough to take food or go through any of the other motions of living, much less of loving. He isn’t permitted to have even brute cunning. When you are told that he loves and hates and kills for his love, you simply don’t believe it possible. In “Tenth Avenue,” Boyd has achieved the extreme in stupidity. The players who are not featured come off better than those who are. Frank McHugh is effective, Gregory Ratoff gives a polished performance of the suave fellow who takes the money and none of the risks. John Butler is intense, quivering as the other kind— the one who takes the risk and gets little of the swag. And Purnell Pratt is a model detective. “BLOOD MONEY”’ HE regulation begorra-Irish maid- servant opens George Middleton’s mystery melodrama, “Blood Money,” and one of her first remarks is: “The ways of the Lord are strange.”’ Having written the line, Middleton stopped typ- ing for no conscious reason, fell to pondering, suddenly banged the table, and, with a “By George! There’s a lot of truth in that,” adopted the line as his text and began to pound the type- writer furiously. At least, that’s the way I fancy the thing happened. Driven by that inspiration, he wrote a tense first act, but, by the time he got to the second, the inspiration was distinctly rallentando, and, before he reached the third, it had dwindled into nothingness. The play goes steadily down-hill; be- fore the finale, it is at the bottom. Early in the second act, the author introduces what he considers comedy; it is pathetic. A Chinese servant re- peats the same words a dozen—or is it a thousand ?—times, on the assump- tion, probably, that repetition is both Oriental and funny. As the rest of us know, it can be both boring and nerve- racking, and, in this case, it is. Wu Fang pops up at short intervals all through the final two acts. At the same time, Mr. Middleton humours his fondness for verbosity. And to extricate his characters from a tangle of misunder- standings and misapprehension of motives, and also to explain the mystery, he brings on a dope fiend or something like that who evokes a positive dis- taste. In sum: there is genuine sus- pense in the first third of “Blood Money,” practically nothing worth mentioning after that and much that not only misses fire completely, but jars the sensibilities. Phyllis Povah returns after a long absence, somewhat more rounded— physically and histrionically. She has managed by some means to turn the corners of her mouth upward; they no longer droop and tinge her work with surliness. As Julia Jones, she is buoy- VOGU; STAG) ant, hearty, aggressive and winnj Thomas Mitchell has little to dan be misunderstood ; he is misunde eXcen Reginald Barlow never for oy audience for a moment and ne folk out front constantly remind . th they are not forgotten, tt “HER FIRST AFF AIRE” ERRILL ROGERS jg , ne A playwright, and “Her Fit Affaire”—presented by Gustay * = av Blum the Bayes Theatre—is hig firg ‘a only play. It is an essay into flugi light comedy with epigrammatic jcip, ( arey Maxon is a novelist who spena his spare time philandering. His yi Is a Wise woman, not disturbed in i slightest by his effusiveness towards other women, realizing his deep Io for her in spite of surface manifests... tions to the contrary. Ann Hood typical younger-generation girl of t! theatre, has developed a wild crush, Maxon and is determined to get bir regardless of consequences, How sh doesn’t get him and how his wife hol him—the comedy comes from the two sources. Unfortunately, the author works ; straight lines: he has not allowed hi rope enough twists or even curves | keep the play from being somethin: laid out pat, moulded. It is logical developed, the characters are consisten! and so neither the people, the sitw- tions, nor the sequence provide mu surprise. A few fillips or jerks woul help it greatly. The dialogue, brig! and often clever, is repetitious, to emphatic and too insistent; it pound But all this is quite natural in first play. “Her First Affaire” reveals dramatist who is sensitive and blessed with a nice sense of the comic and th satiric. His virtues struggle hard wit his intensity in this work and mang to peep through only at intervals, bv they are indubitably there. Inexperien usually believes that there is a mg way-to write a play and that one mus not veer from that straight and nar path. The work that emanates fren such a conviction is, of course, routit It is much like a child writing; he: so intent on forming the letters as! book and the teacher say that th should be formed that he squeezes lis pencil painfully, presses it hard i! the paper, and the result 1s stilte! cramped. When he is finished, ! usually discovers that he has bitten bs tongue. Rogers’s initial work for t! theatre calls up that picture. But, ont in awhile, he forgets the rule and t) seriousness of his task, and then hi ability at airiness, sophistication, # cynical casualness shows itself. " Of the five actors acquired for “Het First Affaire,” only one is better tha} average. Aline MacMahon, heretotor § identified on the non-musical ste roles as the hero's and the tras ” proves thi’§ with such “heavy” 5 in “Beyond the Horizon woman of “Spread Eagle, she has also a fl ; Her technique is adroit, supp’ a her feeling for emphasis fine-*' neither overstresses nor U WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED HE initial offering at th a a dreadful farce that oo ig flirts with dirtiness, doesn't qUm but manages to be continuously ad Antiquated, dull, offensive. The - humour are of the sort that a * laugh from having one por ie nounce it vase and another vey? the jokes are never above (Or as" me a cigar.” “What kind? air for light come’ § anti e Ritz i E — gl!

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VOGn; Octo Salvaging |, Your A AG] | nd Winniny tle to do eXtey Misunderstoy; f -r forgets hile and keeps tj reminded thy FAIRE” RS iS a ne s ‘Her Firs sustav Blum ; his first ay ay into fluf aMmMatic jciny St Who spengs ring. His wij Sturbed jn 1! eness toward: his deep | 1c. manifests. Ann Hood 1 mn girl of th wild crush ¢ d to get hin} es. How sh his wife hol s from the hor works ; t allowed hish ven curves ti ng somethin: fe 't is logicall: ire consistent le, the situ: rovide mucif jerks wou! logue, brighi etitious, to it; it pounds natural in ire” reveals ip » and blessed omic and th le hard wit and manag ntervals, bu! Inexperien e is a rig lat one mus and nar anates fron Irse, routin riting ; he i tters as th y that thy squeezes his t hard int t is stilted inished, | 1s bitten hike ‘ ‘ei ork for th e. But, ont ule and the id then bi cation, al self. od for “Hel better tha: - heretofor sical stag the heroit’| d the tray proves thi ht comedy supple, anc fine—S derstress MR DERE! ; the Ritz ' constant! quite datt sly vols ‘he wit at - expects! rson pit rahse. 40 is: “Brot ‘Tobatt ET ber 15, 1927 Beauty POST-SUMMER SUGGESTIONS —for your daily beautifying ritual! Cleanse—Y outhify Valaze Water Lily Cream—most luxuri- ous of all cleansing creams—contains a youth-giving essence of water-lily buds. Keeps complexion exquisitely fine, soft- toned, smooth. (2.50, 4.00) Clear—Bleach Valaze Beautifying Skinfood—the skin- clearing masterpiece — animates, bleaches mildly, creates exquisite delicacy. Use al- ways—an ideal companion to all other Rubinstein preparations. (1.00, 2.50) Tan—Freckles—Sallowness Valaze Bleaching Cream—a mild whiten- et—clears away tan, light freckles, sallow- ness and all moderate signs of outdoor exposure. 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BNE* SORENSEN. FARIS, “i Exclusive Fashions For Women 15 East 5222St.New York_ Paris Clothes A complete collection Furs Gowns Hats T H E HANG WU KIEN (of the nine- teenth century) says, “If I open this flask of jade, in which is enclosed a wondrous perfume, its mysterious fragrance will overpower thee.” And, opening the flask of Chinese jade his- tory, one is overpowered as much, In the moment of wonder, one feels for the “prosaic Chinese” something that is usually reserved for those races and cultures that we are pleased to call mystical. Mystics the Chinese certainly are not; else they had certainly per- sonified jade, which they never did. Esteemed above everything else from prehistoric times down to now, it has never been the source of any religion, never been reduced to a cult. Yet, in all Chinese thought, its place is one usually peculiar to a god, extraordi- narily beautiful (as he would be), but worshipped (as he would be, too) en- tirely for his virtues, not his beauty. THE CHINESE SOUL IN JADE The Chinese hold jade to be “the quintessence of heaven and earth.” ‘That expresses their feeling for it, and every Chinaman is born with this re- gard for jade, just as every Chinaman is born a Confucian at heart. It is a peculiar racial heritage. Jade, archaeologists—not poets alone—hold to be the mirror of the Chinese mind and soul. Its unchanging valuation, materially and aesthetically, its sym- bolic moral significance throughout the ages, are unique. No other material has ever meant to them and no material substance has ever meant to any other race or culture what jade has always meant to the Chinese. Confucius, being asked by Tsu-kung whether he should hide away a beautiful jade stone in a case or sell it, replied, “Sell it! Sell it! I tarry for my price!” And again, in their first primitive laws those corre- sponding to the Mosaic laws of the Hebrews, the question arises: “If a tiger or buffalo escape from the pen and tortoise-shell or jade be broken, who is to blame?” Curiously, nearly all of the im- portant superstitions about it are of historical date and grew up gradually. It is during the Chou and Han dynas- ties that certain jade amulets com- menced to be buried with the dead, with the idea that they would prevent the decay of the body and help effect a resurrection. Other jade ornaments found in tombs are there because they were the objects most prized during lifetime. They are of jade simply be- cause anything beautiful enough to be so cherished would naturally be of that precious material. THE IMMORTAL JADE At about this same time, the belief that jade might prolong human life came into Chinese thought. (The gods lived on jade—hence their immor- tality!) It came in with notions of alchemy, just as those ideas were re- lated in European mediaeval culture. Upon a certain day, the Son of Heaven ate a powder of it mixed with rice; and there was a certain most beautiful variety of which wine-cups were made, with the idea that drinking from them might indefinitely postpone one’s en- trance into the City of White Jade. Paradise would, of course, be the City of White Jade. Li Po has related in a poem how he once sought the City of White Jade “where the gods of felicity stroked him on the forehead.” Perhaps, he did seek it—perhaps, by way of the red jade wine-cups. However it was, he appar- ently found a more intense satisfaction JADE By JAN NIERLING VOGU, MIRROQ pavilion’ with hg, Sta ida ane Tiend We; Governor of Chiang-Hsia wher ne : “poured forth their souls in etek - : yaaa Fm word between mo R solemn eclares, “j ona i white jade.” ~ ee One is gradually persuaded that thi | ardent reverence for j en : : : Jade must hay sprung simply from the Profound ap. preciation of its beauty. It jg th 4 sponse to an irresistible aesthetic 4 peal. The Courts of Heaven mee jade, as are the courts of earth ni in the harem, in the temple; one f h it in the high places almost exclusively, in poetry, as in religion. All the in, portant utensils of the Imperial hoy. hold and of the Court for the | three dynasties have been made of it It has always been used for everything noble or fine and for nothing ignoble The personal beauty and virtues of the Emperor—‘“the jade Emperor"—anj ; the hands and brows of fair women | are compared with it. It is interesting : too, that the complimentary compari : son is never the other Way round, say: p in one legend concerning jade itse, : | (Chinese folk-lore is, of course—lke § their writing—, adorned with the men. tion of it.) In this legend, it is sid P to resemble a beautiful woman, In an. | other, one learns that if, upon going out into the night, one should espy ; woman carrying a candle who vanishes into a rock—jade will be found there The Mirror of Jades states that “in the Second Month the plants receive a | bright lustre. When their leaves fall they change into jade.” It is alo Pf recorded that when the Emperor ob- f serves perfectly all the rites of the State, white jade will be found in the valleys. 4 — JADE IN GREAT VARIETY The Chinese love the sight, th sound, and the feel of it. For them, the pleasure in texture lies in the direct sensuous delight of actually handling the objects. It is as distinct a pleasur — as music or perfume; and jade offes F nearly as much variety to the touch & as it does to the sight. They have names describing the various sensi- tions. Some jade is warm and smooth like the flesh of a child, other fir and close like a delicate silk. Som: is described as jun, which is also sof but “having the feel of morning dev or gentle rain.” There are clegan! f glossy surfaces and clinging “lovable” F ones. There is a texture of jade that § is “bitter” and another that is hari and “austere.” The variety of textures is greater than one would guess # first thought, and __ these fanciful Chinese names for them are far mor exact than one would suppose. But the colours are the wonder of | jade. The subtle delight in the feel } of it is limited to the few, to the set sitive, the refined, and—the wealthy 5 The marvellous colourings, uniform a streaked, or veined, “misty,” patched a cloud-like—these thrill wherever light falls. There is jade of almost every ; colour and of every degree of trans parency. Some is nearly as clear . q crystal. This is very rare and equ? valuable. Poets point out the je clear river” and the “jade pure ™ Other is milk-white—it is like frows milk. That called —“chicken-bit white” resembles ivory. Oily Wl" ranks after creamy white. Most ri nowned of all is what the Chinese © “muttonfat.” Then, there are white jade and bluish-white © after white, greens and yellows considered valuable. ” (Continued on page 122) j t t

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121 October i fa Oi 1927 RADIATOR enclosures at HALF former prices VOGo; ROR he Watersid, friend We & L, Where the; IE In heroic dis. een Us,” he Q Precious lik: ded that this € must hay profound ap. It is the te. aesthetic af aVEN are of f earth, It i le; one finds t exclusively: All the in. Perial house. for the las made of it Or everything hing ignobk. © /irtues of the iperor”—and fair women f S interesting [ TY compari round, save jade itself course—like ith the men. d, it is said ati man. In an- \ | upon going ould espy a vho vanishes found there that “in the S receive ap leaves fall, It. is alv f mperor ob- rites of the ‘ound in the 7 . 13 a “ S32 Re wae Te sb 3 # pct TETY sight, the . For them, in the direct lly handling § t a pleasure & | jade offers F o the touch They have “ious sensi- and smooth other fine silk. Some is also soft, orig OW you can protect your are elegant 1g “lovable” F ra a | DRAPERIES and WALLS at reasonable cost - of textures | Enclosures $20 and up Shields {750 and up —) / HE high price level of radiator en- Department and other stores where you Every Mullins Enclosure —_ “res has re far mor | closures and shields has been due, may see and examine the particular sizes a large humidifying pan under oe = “yonder off 42 the past, to the fact that most of them _you need. pore kept full of soa — ni “ ” in the fe’ |) Werte specially mad x- : needed moisture in the dried-out atmos- om “pense re this edie a a They are made of going — phere of a room. The heated air is oe i in the most beautiful natura ; s, unifom | and delivery could only be made after sept deflected from walls and curtains, pre y,” patched wood grain imaginable. Walnut and a Mahogany shades are available, as is : Fgh o rps » Now Mullins has created beautiful Ra- also a charming Old Ivory. Or, they may See Mullins Enclosures an ields a as car @ diator Enclosures in standard sizes be bought in ground color only, ready your favorite store. Dy weeks of waiting. venting accumulation of dust and grime. ual 4 { . ° . r ae 4 sufficient to cover practically all radia- for finishing in any tone or color you An attractive folio of color plates will be gladly sent on request ag ; tors. These sizes are carried in stock by may desire. MULLINS BODY CORPORATION, SALEM, OHIO ike [r02" Be icken-bon™ Oily whit . Most & Chinese are clout vhite. AM yellows #* : Home Furnishings Division, 2 | Mullins Body Corporation, Salem, Ohio ~ Please send me color prints and description of Mullins Radiator Enclosures and Shields # DUBE ooo cscsccccsossesiessssviscesconseoassasansssavarctesasenssenancenagenacesenseasoap ston ; Radiator Enclosures G- Sttelds ys wr 122)

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In A. Jaeckel Creations for Autumn and Winter will be found a distinctive expression of the true elegance of Furs A.JAECKEL & CO. Jurriers 6xclusively Fifth Ave. Bet. 35-36 Sts. New York T HE JADE VOGU; MIRROR (Continued from page 120) There is also that called “blood- old” or “corpse-old.” This (if gen- uine) is sure to be old, for it is the once-white jade found in ancient tombs. Those reddish stains that the Chinese believe to be the blood of the corpse that has been absorbed into the jade buried with it are from the iron. (All jade contains some iron. ) This in time becomes oxidized and shows in veins, clouds, patches, with- out or within. Pale, opalescent carv- ings will increase in beauty—like win- ter sunsets—growing more gorgeous than carnelian, finer than agate, for the “blood-stain” may affect pure-white jade in a thousand ways. Presents of jade have always been fashionable in China. The birth of a child into the Imperial family was the occasion for many such gifts. Under the Manchus, a pair of jade jewel trees was included in the trousseau of wealthy brides. Nor have such things always been in miniature. The Han Wu ku shih relates how the Emperor Wu built a temple and in the front hall erected trees of jade. And we know that in the Palace of the Mongol Em- perors at Peking was an artificial hill of jade. They kept their wine in mag- nificent and enormous jade jars into which it was conveyed by conduits. Such a one Ordoric de Pordenone saw in the Palace of the Great Khan. This jar was all hooped round with gold, and at each corner sat a fierce dragon. He also recollected seeing beautiful grey jade cups with cloud patterns of purple-red. The Mongols strove to impress by splendour, and they usually succeeded. A STONE TO BE REVERED With the native Chinese, the idea of jade as a stone possessing inherent virtue—in fact, the Nine Virtues of Man combined—was always present. No matter how sensuous the treat- ment, its spiritual significance was never for a moment lost sight of. Their use of jade as a material was always dignified and elegant. = oetic allusions to it reflect this reality, and Chinese poetry is full of them. “We go to the Golden Palace. We set out the jade cups; We summon the honoured guests.” Drinking at some such banquet, Li Po exclaims, “Bells! Drums! Delicacies Worth their weight in jade—” And at another are “red jade cups and dainty food on tables inlaid with green gems.” (A Chinese poem never fails to be a painting!) In the Seventh Month, we find Li Po alone “dreaming among the flowers of his garden and sipping wine clear as jade.” White jade, always held as the most precious, is used figuratively as com- parison for beauties and virtues other- wise incomparable. In the substance, it is reserved for the Emperor’s use. It is the background for the moments of rarest beauty in this Celestial King- dom on earth. The Chinese envoy to Bagdad in the year 1259 was much impressed with the Palace of the Caliph, built of fragrant and precious woods, and especially because its walls were of black and white jade. Li Po, as Court poet, recalls a scene of water- lilies swaying in the breeze about the palace in the middle of the lake. “Li Si, flushed with wine. is dancing. Sud- denly, she staggers, leans against the royal white jade couch, and smiling, gazes towards the east window.” An- other court lady is griey; lord who has gone R, the pak 4 She “knows the day he left but an not know the year when he will " turn,” and the tears of the Unwo . One “like white jade chop-sticks { in a single piece before the ota chestnut mirror.” A happier bina reflects a bride who “gazes at th: floor where the bamboo curtain by k the moonlight into a thousand bits ' jade.” F As one might expect, the vast land scape of China is to the poets ag on piece of jade. In Li Po’s poem “the lonely wife” laments that— | “No letters come, none go, There is only the moon Shinjy through the clouds of a hard rity green sky, Looking down at us so far divide) and so anxiously apart.” . She describes days and nights of griey. : ing made no lighter by the realizatio, that “a flower-face endures but , short season.” Then— “TI rise at dawn. In the Hall of Pic. q tures, , They come and tell me that th ¥ snow-flowers are falling.” : And beholding the “beautiful glitter. ing snow, whitening the distance ani filling the air with its shining,” she notices that “The grass-blades are cold ani ¥ white, like a jade girdle.” “Ai-yah! is’t jade that suddenly decks the eaves?” cries a beggar in a snov- scene of an _ eighteenth-century play. And Po Chu-i, describing his beloved pine-trees—for the sake of which he | moved his house—tells us that “At the year’s end the time of grea snow Stamps their branches with a fre of glittering jade.” Spring comes, and standing in his back garden, he is thrilled to see “the las icicle breaking into splinters of jade’ And Tu Fu describes the autumn des- lation of the Sorceress Gorge with- “Jade dew lies upon the withere: ¢ } and wounded forest of map trees.” This idea must have inspired more than one of those marvellous jade land- § scapes carved by the extraordinarily > skilled lapidaries of the eighteenth cen- F tury—this scene, shining and luminous in all the carnelian russet colours o! © autumn that one sees in blood-o1 jade. —— Earlier in the autumn, Po Chu-1 has ‘ made his memorable climb to the tem ple on the mountain top. He tells us that “At the central dome where the hills highest rise, _ The sky is pillared on a column green jade!” Another climbing the T’ai-hsins Mountain, looks down on vegetatiol “like a sea of jade,” and Li Po, > templating some such scene, }s p proached by a vulgar person = him why he “perches in the a green hills.” Once, on his way to , tant parts, he confides that “the : 4 green of the hillside country fur one’s heart,” and adds 2’ — stand—on the jade steps, doing nd (Continued on page 124)

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ieving for he Ae great way fp * left but dos en he will ry. p Unworthy hop-sticks fal re the Water. BF the ‘appier mirro; 8azes at th Curtain break. ousand bits | & the vast land. 7 poets as on Ss poem, “th at— £0. moon shining f a hard jad. O far divided art,” ights of griev. | the realizatio, dures but ; 4 Hall of Pic. 4 me that th } ing.” utiful glitter. distance ani shining,” she © e cold and Fy rirdle,” uddenly decks ir in a snov- century play. x his beloved of which he ; that time of grec! with a fret g in his back see “the last ers of jade.” 1utumn desi FF orge with— the withere t of map october 15, 1927 ‘Creasure™ | Solid Silver STERLING 925/1000 FINE ~™ fa “Bob! Promise, will you? Before we invite the Kays to out house, I with...” “I can guess. Something more for the new dining room?”’ “Well.—Could we have some real Sterling silver? . . . Ann has that ed more than jade land- traordinarily § hteenth cen- nd luminous t colours of n_ blood-o'd 9 Chu-i has | to the tem- He tells us ere the hils § : » essential breeding, background and gracious living . .. » column 0} | T’ai-hsins § , vegetation & Li Po, cor & ne, is ap nn who asks the jade way to dis “the jade intry hurls “T stand- Joing not 124) lovely Early American design in TREASURE to match her mew dining room. And I’d hate to have them think... well, you know . 4 ew tastes. New possessions. The dining room, perhaps, done over in the modern manner . . . Somehow, the old silver doesn’t quite belong and somehow, “Treasure” does. For “Treasure” has that intangible quality we call style. The Early American, for instance. Here is a design modelled directly from some of the authentic and more distinctive pieces, now extant, of our own 18th Century. A design which has captured wholly the delicacy, the restraint, the charm that gives to the craftsmanship of the period its present vogue. And “Treasure,” of course, is STERLING, with all that the word implies—the hall mark of The “Early American Style”? is made in dinner hollow-ware as well as in a complete line of flat silver— plain or decorated in the manner of old-fashioned hand engraving. Your jeweler will be glad to show you this lovely silver or we will be glad to send you our booklet —‘‘The Early American Style.’’ of 1S Serling -more can not be said ENGRAVED She Garly Aunerican Nyle ROGERS, LUNT @ BOWLEN COMPANY © Silversmiths Creators of Distinctive Tableware 312 WEST FEDERAL STREET:GREENFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS Member of the Sterling Silversmiths Guild of America

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124 ‘ ROSE ROTH PROCURABLE AT THE- SMARTEST SHOPS 550 SEVENTH AVE., N.Y. F| T HE JADE VOGUR MIRROR (Continued from page 122 ing.” Again, having bidden farewell to an old friend, he watches until “the single sail is extinguished in the jade- coloured distance.”’ Our most sympathetic impression of Chinese music is received through the constant allusions in poetry to it and to the beautifully wrought instru- ments. Flutes were made of white jade, and in the Metropolitan Museum are bells of transparent sea-green streaked with brown. There is also a double gong of leaf-green jade con- nected by chains of the white. Mr. James Huneker once remarked that he had always found writers peculiarly partial to tinkling music. Certainly, any one searching among races for examples in support of this theory might pause to gaze with com- plete satisfaction on _ the literary Chinese. Wang Wei describes an im- perial audience at dawn, writing in the well-known manner of Chia, the Palace Secretary. In ten distinguished sentences, he sets forth the glories of the audience in the Palace of Great Brilliance and concludes with: “My jade girdle-pendants clash sweetly as I return to sit beside the Pool of the Crested Love-Pheasant.” Po Chu-i, exhibiting less open sat- isfaction, writes with dignity and looks back on what has always been at least a busy life— “Then on the shore—building sand- pagodas. Now, at Court, covered with tinkling jade.” However, the pleasure of hearing one’s own girdle-jades must have been considerable. For one thing, they were the realization of that wish expressed in the present of jade received by a boy at his birth. Except when fasting or mourning, a gentleman never removed the jades from his body. They were emblematic of virtuous qualities. Be- sides, they were supposed to develop a joyful disposition and to ward off depravity. Hence, the wearing of the tinkling jades came to be a moral obligation. Women wore these girdle-pendants, too, and they were regarded as, per- haps, the most charming accessory in the attire of a charming woman. An old song of the Shi king praises a lady whose beauty is heightened by her harmoniously tinkling jades. In an- other poem, a princess married into a far country and, nearly sick for the home and friends of her youth, sees as in a dream these friends, their elegant dress, their gay diversions, and hears again their girdle-gems—“how they moved in music to their mea- sured steps’—for these jades were carved in varying thicknesses so as to emit the different notes of the scale. It may be that these musical pendants, appealing—like perfume—to another sense than that of sight, possessed a charm peculiarly compelling. Lovers, longing for each other and the hours that were, seem fairly haunted by the memory of each other’s girdle-jades. If beautiful Chinese women thought and dreamed of jade, they Were algo compared with it, and oftener h with anything else. The lovelier, the more “jade-like.” In one of the Sen teen Old Poems, a poet praisin rr places—as poets do—declares that . “In Yen and Chao ar ladies, Beautiful people with : jade.” faces ie € many fair Another’s song is of a lady who leans all day on the balcony rail at the top of the Blue Tower awaiti her lover. ‘ mg “The rail is twisted into q twelve. fold pattern. She lets fall her hand white like the colour of jade.” Li Po, who lived long at Court, ree members a lovely child— “At fifteen she entered the Palace of Han. Her flower-face was like a river in Spring. The Prince chose her of the jade colour To attend his rest within the em broidered screen.” And he shall never forget another, a young musician, who, taking the flute, “swooped with jade fingers over the stops.” In his comic character-poem, The Eight Immortals of the Wine-Cup, Li Po sketches each of his fellow immor- tals. The youngest of them, Tsung-Chi, as a youth “handsome, fastidious— and radiant like a tree of jade that stands against the breeze.” Compared with a tree of jade! For a Chinaman would think first of a tree. Figure carving was associated mainly with Buddhism, and that never flourished in China. Still, what there is of it is beautiful! Po Chu-i, exploring his tem- ple on the mountain top that autumn day, discovers. that “To the east there opens the Jade Image Hall, i. Where white Buddhas sit like ser yo ried trees! It is too much for his Chinese soul; he goes into ecstacies; his elaborate description reads like something from the Sanskrit. He is overpowered, as with the incense-heavy breath of Gautama’s own India. Bowing, they “worshipped those faces of frozen snow—” Rs Grey jade mountains in the twilight; pale yellow jade gardens in spring, jade clear wine and youths radiant like jade trees; jade moonlight; re mist jade; in the Jade Pass drifts 0 jade “snow-flowers”; jade in the - leys and in the Emperor’s heart; Jade Paradise, white jade women, jade music, jade gods— : One amie Chang Wu Kien's rf guidly raised finger—“If | “ss flask of jade, in which 1s — ; wondrous perfume, its mysterious Ta grance will overpower thee! SRE aI ERAT ne

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VOGUR -OR october 15, 1927 -Y Were tener lovelier the f the Seven. Praising far ires that many fair faces like _ lady who ony rail at T, awaiting ) @ twelve. ite like the Court, ree the Palace a river in F the jade n the eme another, a y the flute, ; over the oem, The e-Cup, Li w immor- ‘sung-Chi, stidious— jade that Compared Chinaman e. Figure inly with flourished 's of it is g his tem- 2. Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream Four sizes $1.00, $2.00, $3.50, $6.00 1, Smoothskin Cream Three sizes $1.50, $3.00, $5.00 “HERE DWELLS YOUTH” 3. Balsam Astringent Two sizes $2.50, $4.00 Two sizes $1.25, $3.00 4. Primrose House Skin Freshener b > 6. Chiffon Face Powder In boxes $3.50 5. Face Molding Cream Three sizes $1.50, $3.00, $5.00 t autumn the Jade like ser- 1ese soul; elaborate ing from vered, as reath of ing, they § f frozen ee twilight; | spring; , radiant - orchid- drifts of . F the val- b : To be young and beautiful throughout the years! That is the dream of every woman. But she who truly values beauty must be extremely careful in her choice of cos- metics. Every preparation that is applied to her skin must be scientifically compounded of purest ingredients. sart; the nen, jade on’s lan- pen this closed 4 ‘ous fra “essere House is a veritable institute of eauty. It is conducted by a group of ex- Perts that have devoted many years of research to the problem of retaining youth’s radiance in the face. It i : ‘ 4 1S not possible to buy purer, finer ingre- ents than are used in the various Primrose Preparations. And they are blended and compounded with the utmost care, each for a specific purpose. This group of beauty culturists maintains Primrose House salon at 3 East 52nd Street, New York. Here, just around the corner from Fifth Avenue, come the smartest women of society. They come here regu- larly for the world-famous Primrose House face molding treatments and they use Primrose House preparationsin their homes. A carefully selected list of department and drug stores represent Primrose House throughout the country. You may pur- chase any of the Primrose preparations from them or direct from Primrose House. et Pimrose House help lo guard ~3g sss — hat precious diff of youth Send for Free Instruction in the Primrose Method “Here Dwells Youth” is a scientific book- let on the care of the skin which we will send gladly by mail. It describes the various treatments, administered by the registered nurses at Primrose House and lists all Primrose House preparations and their uses. Ss PRIMROSE HOUSE, 3 East 52nd Street, New York City. Please send me your free booklet, “‘ Here Dwells Youth.” I enclose check or money order for $........ ......:..----+++- Please send me Primrose preparationsNos................------ | a a aS es 5 ene a No 5 eh Nee a a alae cee #=8 PRIMROSE HOUSE 2-=

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ALEXANDRE KID GLOVES ~ MADE IN THE HEART OF PARIS Tice exquisite new , Madzme's | ennance even adame's Cllexan ve simplest costume our le sport Ou, wall See -— soft and sunpls. tune texture». ew Hlaftering their lines Recasnbeics Chey have that something so | Manel, SO Tin, which has ! echoed lor them three Limes the PREMIER GRAND PRIX PARIS If by any chance you happen into a store that does not carry Alexandre Kid Gloves, just tell the mer- chant that MarsHALL FretD & Company, Wholesale (Chicago and New York), are sole distributers. ‘ ras a) UU a A. Tennyson Beals At the Westchester office of the Henry Street Visiting Nurse Service, babies are examined, weighed, and kept well yn OSL E HIRTY-FOUR years ago, a star- tled young woman was hurried out of the classroom in which she was teaching the rudiments of home eco- nomics, by a tiny girl. The exact trouble that the child tried to blurt out, she could not fathom—only that some one lay ill and needed her. Darting into alleys, trudging over garbage heaps, they came at last to an old tenement-house. And there, in one of the upper apartments, she found a woman lying in the utmost squalor, helpless and alone, with her new-born baby at her side, unattended. That day was epochal in the history of the world, for the young woman was Miss Lillian D. Wald, and that visit furnished the inspiration that marked the birth of an organization that was to benefit suffering humanity in every corner of the world—the Visiting Nurse Service. From the top floor of a tenement- house on Jefferson Street, Miss Wald and a companion, Miss Mary Brewster, undertook their self-appointed task of ministering to those who were ill and unable to help themselves. The visit to the home of the little girl had shown the need of a skilled hand, the value of a word of cheer and advice. For these people were not degraded. They were making a brave fight to exist in the face of economic misfortune, and they needed just a helping hand to raise their morale and help them tide over the period of adjustment. A VALUABLE SERVICE To-day, there stands witness to the value and dependence of the public on this service, a staff of two hundred graduate nurses who give bedside nurs- ing care in the homes into which they are called. Each year, they make about a half-million visits to patients number- ing well into fifty thousand, and the scope of the territory that they cover in New York City takes in the bor- oughs of Manhattan, Bronx, and Rich- mond. Scattered over the city at various points, the Visiting Nurse Service ad- ministered by the Henry Street Settle- ment has established its eighteen SS E VOGUR ce i : OBLI®@ centres—from short crooked alleys if the heart of Chinatown to the fa reaches of Throggs Neck, City I and Staten Island. Every centre hag own supervisor and an adequate num ber of nurses to take care of the visits required in each particular district ft this way, a call coming in froma patient can be transferred from main heat quarters to the office nearest the home, A NURSE’S DAY There is nothing but their unifoms of blue-grey to distinguish these nuss from the hundreds of other women who hurry to work every morning abit cight-thirty, and yet, before the day over, each one of the Henry Stet nurses will have been part of romance and tragedy that make up@ city and its populace. For each nut makes eight visits a day, and he calls take her into homes of all kinds Sometimes, she is called to give carew a lady living in an apartment who requires the services of a gra nurse for but one or two hours m day, perhaps for just a visit. Some times, her visit takes her to a tenement house where she must trudge up or four flights of steps to give cart to a tired mother who lies helpless and alone, Sometimes, a call comes for het from an ou‘lying barge where a mate nity patient needs the skilled of a nurse. And, sometimes, called in to give advice in homes Wa social problems are too di the head of the family to solve alone. Not long ago, a hurry call had ¢ into one of the nursing offices, G0% followed by a visit from a Maley was too excited to talk and only beckon to the nurse to follow ai Through the wide avenues of Jo Broadway, down into the district WH tall office buildings gave way 1% dential neighbourhoods, into Hee s‘reets that wind around Walls he led her. Then to the wateriie Office buildings faded away, ® polite gaze of Wall Street people rushing to and fro " questioningly at the excited m . the nurse hurrying close UP (Continued on page 130)

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Renaissance Presenting the true spirit and grace ey ao liastbicrleleal caateye! VA HE Renaissance pattern is one of the most beautiful of all Wallace \ be proud, of always. Make your family circle happy by buying it to grace your own lovely table. The beauty and. the exquisite designing of the Renaissance harmonizes perfectly with the English Tudor and the Italian and Spanish Renaissance furniture that is so popular today. You may order from any fine jeweler the pieces shown here and other articles in flat silver and hol- low ware. We will be glad to send you a booklet on Renaissance, together witha copy of “The Wonder of Sterling Silver.” Address R. Wallace % Sons Mfg. Go., 50 Wallace Park, “Wallingford, (Sonn. Shown on this page are Dinner Knives with stainless steel, French Blades, $44 the doz.; dinner forks, $46 the doz.; 3-piece Tea Set with waiter, $648; without waiter, $298. 2? STERLING SILVER

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’. VOGUE PATTERN SERVICE OGUE PATTERNS may now be obtained in all of the leading American and European cities. They may be pur- chased in the shops listed below where one may secure expert fashion advice about personal clothes problems, and see the coloured sketches of all the new models. How to Order by Mail. Vogue Patterns may be ordered by mail from any of the distributors listed below or from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Conn., 15 N. Jefferson Street, Chicago, IIl., or 523 Mission Street, San Francisco, California. ALABAMA we mY oy Louis Pi iaite Dry Goods Co. MONTGOMERY | > Sate gna Fair : ARIZONA PHOENIX Korrick’s Dry Goods Co. ARKANSAS LITTLE ROCK The Gus Blass Company PINE BLUFF McLendon-Saunders Co. * treme, ALAMED Hea chofer’ s AL — Ballanty ne’s Silk Shop BAKERSFIELD Redlick Mercantile Co. BERKELEY J. F. Hink & Son Inc. BURLINGAME Levy Bros. CHICO M. Oser & Co. EUREKA J. F. Hink & Son Co. FRESNO Radin & Kamp, Inc. Ss. W LONG BE ACH Buffums’ LOS ANGEL ES a, Robinson Co., Bullock's MODESTO Latz's pet Store MONROVIA ae ied s OAKLA Taft x Pennoyer Company PALO ALTO Mendenhail Co. PASADENA Denning’ s Silk Store PETALUMA Goldman’ s Inc. = Jrange Belt Emporium PORTER\ ge LE I REDLANDS Leipsic RIVERSIDE G. Rouse & Co. SACRAMENTO Weinstock-Lubin & Company SAN BERNARDINO Rainbow Silk Shop SAN DIEGO Dunning’s Silk Store, The Marston Company SAN FRANCISCO The White House Raghed Weill & “an pt . SAN PEDRO Mallinson’s Dept. Store SANTA ANA Rankin Dry Goods Co. SAN TA BARBARA Trenwith’ s Inc. “ote MONICA ay a Store SANTA R Li, White ieee Carithers & Sons Inc. STOCKTON Smith & Lang wae EJO Levee’s Dept. Store WATSONVILLE Charles Ford Company COLORADO BOULDER F The White-Davis Mercantile °. COLORADO SPRINGS Giddings & Kirkwood DENVER The Joslin Dry Goods Com- pany, The Denver Dry Goods Co., Daa & Fisher PUEB The ~ s-Beggs DryGoodsCo. CONNECTICUT BRIDGEPORT . M. Read Co. RY GRE ENWI The Charles N. Mead Com- pany HARTFORD Sage-Allen & Co., Inc. MERIDEN The Ives, Upham & Rand Co. MIDDLETOWN Davidson & Leventhal NEW HAVEN The Chas. Monson Co. NEW LONDON The James Hislop Co. ALBERTA CALGARY Hudson's Bay Company EDMONTON Hudson’s Bay Company BRITISH COLUMBIA VANCOUVER Hudson’s Bay Company VICTORIA Hudson's Bay Company CONNECTICUT (Cont.) STAMFORD The C. O. Miller Co. WATERBURY The Miller & Peck Company DELAWARE WILMINGTON Crosby & Hill Co. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA WASHINGTON Woodward & Lothrop, Lansburgh & Bro. FLORIDA JACKSONVILLE ee Bros. MIAM Dugald C. Hill ORLA Fswomtd Ives Co. PENSACOLA La Mode — Falk’s Department Store WEST PALM BEACH Hatch’s Inc. GEORGIA ALBANY Chamberlin-Johnson- Du Bose Co., erieee-Panon Company AUGUST J. B. White & Co. a we J. — en Co. MAGO The —_ Dry Goods Co. MIAMI Ay “aN c Hill SAVA J dcmg ‘Sullivan Dry Goods ‘o ILLINOIS BLOOMINGTON May: Livingston & Co. CHAMPAIGN G. C. Willis CHICAGO ——— Pirie Scott and Com- pan Chas. ‘4 Stevens & Bros., Madigan Bros., Madison & Crawford Sts. Zax Brothers, 1325 E. 63rd Street DANVILLE Straus & Louis Company DECATUR William Gushard Company LGIN Fare Bros. EVAN coors s Pesan Square eo wi Read Co. GALESBURG The O. T. Johnson Co. JOLIET L. F. Beach Co. KANKAKEE The Chicago Store LA SALLE T. Lucey Bros. & Co. OTTAWA L. M. Lucey & Co. PEORIA Block & Kuhl Co. es “KO D. J. Stewart & Co. SPRINGFIEL D The John Bressmer Co. WAUKEGAN Smith: Buchanan Co. INDIANA EVANSVILLE The S. G. Evans D. G. Co. INDIAN APOLIS L. S. Ayres & Co. on ew WwW. Serena Co. SOUTH BEN The Elisw am Store TERRE HAUTE The Root Dry Goods Co. IOWA mete ie 4 is C. Petersen’s Sons Co. DES MOINES Younker Brothers & Messe. Emerys SIOUX CIT Pneticr's. KANSAS HUTCHINSON The Pegues-Wright Co. LAWRENCE Innes-Hackman & Co. TOPEKA The Crosby Brothers Company WICHITA The Geo. Innes Co. KENTUCKY F eS. “_¥ Farmer & Son LEXINGTON Wolf-Wile Co. LOC TS Abe a vi Co. Inc. PADUCAH The E. Guthrie Co. MANITOBA WINNIPEG Hudson’s Bay Company rr, BRUNSWICK MONCT J.D. -, Company — ST. JO 7 ean Robertson Allison Limited, 27 King Street Spring Issue................0.DeC. 24 Early Summer Issue....Feb. 25 At All Stores and News-Stands................35 Cents In Canada, 70 Bond Street, Toronto, Ont. In ordering, state the full pattern number of the pattern you select. When ordering skirts give both the waist and the hip measure; when ordering misses’ or children’s designs state age. Sizes. Vogue Patterns are cut in sizes 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, and some in 44 and 46 inches bust measure; 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38,and 40 inches waist measure, and 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47» and 49 inches hip measure, 7 inches below natural waistline; inisses’ patterns in sizes 14, 16, 18, and 20 years; junior misses’ LIST of DISTRIBUTORS LOUISIANA BATON ROUGE The Muller Co., Ltd. NROE Masur Bros. NEW ORLEANS H. Holmes Co., Limited SHREVEPORT Baird Co., Ltd., Texas St. AINE PORTLAND Eastman Bros. & Bancroft YLAND A BALTIMORE Hutzler Brothers Co., O'Neill & Company, Inc., Stewart & Co. CUMBERLAND McMullen Bros. Co. her og oes Thomas Kem HAGE RSTOWN Leiter Brothers MASSACHUSETTS — RO Fin — ON H. Stearns Company, Tordain Marsh Company RIVER FALL R. A. McW er Co. FRAMINGHAM ten — HOLYOKE Ge ja *s Inc. LOWELL The Bon Marché D. G. Co. LYNN Schmidt Bros. Inc., 53 Market Street SALEM William G. Webber Co. SPRINGFIELD Forbes & Wallace Inc., Meekins, Packard & Inc. WORCESTER Slocum’s Silk Store, Denholm & McKay Co. SHIGAN ANN ARBOR Wm. Goodyear & Co. DETROIT fhe J. L. Hudson Company, Newcomb-Endicott Co. Wheat W arrick ee Inc. GRAND RAPIDS eth et ious Dry Goods 0., Wurzburg Dry Goods Co. JACKSON Lourim-Yocum Co. KALAMAZOO Gilmore Bros, LANSING J. W. Knapp Co. PORT HURON Cochrane Dry Goods Co. SAGINAW Wm. C. Wiechmann Co. MINNESOTA DULUTH sriecretain, & Bondy Co. MINNEAPOLIS The Dayton Company ST. PAUL Schunemans and Mannheimers WINONA H. Choate & Co. BILOXI MISSISSIPPI W. V. > sada Co. a 4 a i, Soningen Co. LAURE Kok Gaddis Company JoPL. IN MISSOURI Rameay Dry Goods Co. KANSAS CITY ae Taylor Dry Goods Co. SED a 2 + Ae Dry Goods Co. SPRINGFIELD The peer Stores Co. ST. JOSEPH The Towesend, Wyatt & Wall Dry Goods Company ST. LOUIS Stix, Baer & Fuller Dry Goods Company, Scruggs-Vandervoort-Barney Dry Gone Co. NA BH LINSS he D. J. Cole Co. GREAT FALLS The Paris Dry Goods Co. HAVRE F. A. Buttrey Company HELENA The New York Dry Goods Co. RE MISSOULA Missoula Mercantile Co. NEBRASKA HASTINGS Miller & Paine MAHA Thompson, Belden & Company, Thomas Kilpatrick & Co. CANADA ONTARIO ONTARIO (Cont.) ony, i Roaiinen & teqrem, Lintted i imi maliman ngram, Limited, W. W. Wilkinson Limited 149-157 Dundas Street HAMILTON OTTAWA Finch Brothers, Limited 29 King Street, West NEW HAMPSHIRE MANCHESTER The Barton Company NEW JERSEY ASBURY PARK wen cane NTIC CITY ATLA M. E. Blatt Co., The Depart- ment Store of Atlantic City weg oh ay! Zucker & Co. EAST ORAD NGE R. H. Muir, Inc. ELIZABETH Wolper’s MONTCLAIR Louis Harris MORRISTOWN Floyd T. Woodhull, Inc. er ARK L. Bamberger & Co. = BRUNSWICK z. Young Dry Goods Co. PATERSON r Meyer “ed PLAINFIEI The Silk is RUTHERFORD William F. Telschow SUMMIT Mc NTON” Springfield Ave. bia 2 Swern & Co. SITY The Silk Shop, Inc. NEW YORK NEW YORK CITY B. Altman & Co., John Wanamaker, R. H. Macy, Inc., Jas. McCutcheon & Co.,, James McCreery & Co., Paramount Silk House, W. 181 Street, Sidney Eisnitz 432 2 Amsterdam Ave. wae tw hitney & Co. BINGH AM TON Sisson Bros.-Welden Co. BROOKLYN Abraham & Straus BUFFALO Flint & Kent, Adam, Meldrum & Anderson Co DUNKIRK ae W. 2 a Estate ELMIR S. F. , Co. FLUSHING Abr: umeon ’s, Main St. FREEPOR A. we GLENS FALLS Boston Store Co, ITHACA rye Bros. JAMESTOWN The ¢ Sik & Specialty Shop KINGSTON Rose & Gorman MIDDLETOWN ce Dry Goods Co. — VERNON st ‘Silk Shops, Ltd. NEW BURC 3H Wm. T. Brown & Son NEW ROCHELLE Wa NIAGARA FALLS a Fair Hat Shoppe Inc. Harrison & Dalley Inc., Main Street OLEAN Bradner’s POUGHKEEPSIE Lecter, Platt & Co. ROCHESTER McCurdy & Company, Inc., Sibley, Lindsay & Curr Co. Halahan SCHENECTAD VY H. S. Barney Co. SYRACL JSE Dey Brothers & Company TROY G. V. S. Quackenbush & Co. UTICA The Fitzgerald Silk Shop, Inc. WATERTOWN Charles H. Anthony WHITE PLAINS Sousa & Cantor, Inc. YVONKER pom & Rothman NEVADA NO Gray, Reid, Wright Co. NORTH CAROLINA ASHEVILLE Bon Marché, Inc. CHARLOTTE J. B. Ivey & Company DURHAM Sevie- caine Co. GREENSBORO Ellis, Stone & Co, Murphy-Gamble, Limited, Sparks Street VOGUE PATTERN BOOK Summer Issue............... Early Autumn Issue....June 25 April 25 Ordered by Mail... Autumn Issue....... Winter Issue....... patterns, in sizes 13, 15, and sizes 6 months to 12 years, and some 14 years, Prices. Vogue Patterns are priced at 40 cen = é ts f short coat, skirt, lingerie pattern or miscellaneous each bw, cents for children’s patterns; 65 cents for each fr or négligée; special patterns $1. How to Send Money. ye does not ma - delivery. When enclose cheque, money pol or stamps. Remittana made out to the store or office from tad charge accounts or C. NORTH CAROLINA (Cont.) RAL ee poyiee Pearce Co. WILMINGTON Belk-Williams Co. NORTH DAKOTA GRAND FORKS R. B. Griffith Co. AKRON — OHIO The A. Polsky Co. CANTON a Klein-Heffelman-Zollars The § Stern & Mann Co. a. ri & S. Pogue Co. The ne Shillito Co. CLEVELAND Halle” Brothers, The Higbee Company, The W =. gt avtor Son & Co. COLUMB The F. CER Lazarus & Co., one Dunn Taft Co. DAYTON The Rike-Kumler Company, a aeeer & Johnston Co. LANCASTER Agha. P. Wiseman & Co. T. Gregg & Co. machi he Maxwell Co, —. ™ 1e Frank Bros. Co, NEWARK John J. Carroll PORTSMOUTH aoe Marting Bros. Co. SIDN Thedveck Dept. Store Co. TOLEDO ae Lasalle & Koch Co., he Lamson Brothers Co. YOoRGSsTO WN The G. M McKelvey Co., The Strouss-Hirshberg Co. OKLAHOMA OKLAHOMA CITY The Kerr Dry Goods Co. OKMULGEE Ramsay Fulford Dry Goods Co. TULSA The Brown-Dunkin Dry Goods O., The Vandever Dry Goods Co. Inc. OREGON EUGENE McMorran & Washburne PORTLAND Charles F, Berg, Lipman, Wolfe & Co., Meier & Frank Co. ALEM The Miller Mercantile Co. PENNSYLVANIA ALTOONA The Wm. F, Gable Co. BETHLEHEM The Bush & Bull Corp. BU’ z LER Troutman’s Sons Co. Inc. CH EST ER Weinberg Bros. ERIE i. Prescott & Richardson HARRISBURG Pomeroy’s, Inc. JOHNST OWN George K. Kline LANCASTER nope} & Bro. OIL Cl c. H. ith eed Company PHILADELPHLS John Wanamaker, Strawbridge ~d cree Jaffe N. W. Cor. oad & Green Sts. PITTSBURGH Joseph Horne Co., Kaufmann’s POTTSVILLE Pomeroy’s, Inc. READING Pomeroy’s, Inc. SCRANTON Scranton Dry Goods Co. SHARON The Oty Store STROUDSBURG A. B. Wyckoff WARREN Betawer- a Co. eS Fre 5° Mershall WILKES BARRE The Isaac ane Store WILLIAMS L. L. Stearns & Sons ORK Charles H. Bear & Company PHILIPPINE ISLANDS MANILA Evans Applied Art Store, Box 1386 ONTARIO (Cont.) ST. CATHARINES McLaren & Co., Ltd., 17 St. Paul Street TORONTO The Robert Simpson Company, Limited _ veseeeeAUg, 25 sua ee 2s .....40 Cénts VOGU; I7 vears; ch ildren’s Pattern Ss Datterns Ock, leer’ te 00. ke Provision ;, Ordering, Dleas tof which you order, RHOD ' PROVIDENCE & ISLAND adding D he Shebard Stes SOUT : CHARLESTON ROUNA he a Aicrrison Dry Goods ( COLUME! redid mnaugh & Co, L. aters W: GREEN LE Meyers-Arnold Co, SOUT ABERDEEN H DAKora 1€ Olwin Angell Co, TEN . BRISTOL NESSEE M KNOXViL pte. G MEMPitIs Ste e Jot NAgtivAt ior co Cain-Sloan Co., Bros, TEX AMABILLO - lite & Ki USI TH e irk, Inc. H. niitiame & ONT Co, BEAM 1e ek 1 y DALLAS 1al Dry Goods ( EL PASO nes Co, 2opular hat G FORT WorTH sane 3 “Bros HOUST Foley Reena Goods( vy ann on” Goods Co, PORT AR TEXARWANA & Marx Compan O’Dwyer’s Inc. ACO The Goldstein-Migel Co, UTAH meet Ww. . H. Wright & Sons Co, PRC VO ai wis Taylor Bros. Com SALT LAKE CITY 7 Keith-O’ Brien Company, Walker Brothers Dry Goods(y, |” NT VERM BURLINGTON F. D. Abernethy VIRGINIA BP DANVILLE L. Herman LYNCHBURG - Moses & Co., Inc. NEWPORT NEWS Sol Nachman’s Department Store NORFOLK Smith & Welton, Inc. PETERSBURG A. Rosenstock & Co., Inc. RICHMOND Thalhimer Bros., Inc., Miller & Rhoads, Inc. ROANOKE S. H. Heironimus Co., Inc. STAUNTON Charles Holt, Inc. WASHINGTON BELLINGHAM J. B. Z ahl Store SEATTL The \facDougall 8: Southwit Co. Frede stick & Nelson SPOKANE iteeeae: Co., /The Crescent TACOMA Rhodes Brothers bake ey = ALLA eS a3 ensen Co. YAKIM tori Woodin Co. WEST VIRGINIA CHARLESTON Coyle & a ARKSBUR pe The Parsons-Souders Co. HUNTINGTON Anderson-Newcomb Co. PARKERSBURG The Surprise Store WHEELING Stone & Ene oa CONSIN PL APNE TON ne Peiel ESVILLE [" > M. Bostwick & Son mot S. Manchester, Ine. MILWAUKEE Bertha Ehlers, 379 Milwaukee St., T. A, Chapman Com WYOMING Dry Goods Compa CASPER Kassis QUEBEC NTREAL 7 ae Morgan & Compost Limited ag on &. Pouliot, 1 205-215 St. Josep SASK a TCHENAN TOO eg s Bay Company

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Patterns j pach blows Patterns: , long Cy TOVision (fam Ting, ple eae © should | fe er, ze AND rds Comp, res OM pay OLINA ¥ Goods (ie &C, yi Se EN ‘0. KOTA ll Co, SEE 1 Co, Sons t Co, S Ic, Ne & Co, Dry Goods ( er Co, oods Co, Dry Goods‘ y Goods Co, CO. farx Company Migel Co, fe .H & Sons Co, ‘ompany ry Company, rs Dry Goods (a 17 ONT hy INIA ‘o., Inc. WS 's Department on, Inc. < & Co., Inc. os., Inc., ads, Inc. mus Co., Inc. Inc. NGTON tore gall &: Southwis Nelson Co.,

hers 1 Co. din Co. IRGINIA hardson ”Souders Co. N ewcomb Co. G e Store omas SONSIN ne-Peabody Co, vick & Son anchester, Ine prs, aukeeSt» man Compal OMING Goods Compa! 4 UEBEC rgan & Compt 5 , tiot, Lis ¢ Poull oh Su St. Jose , TCHEWAN ‘i Bay Compaty

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CADILLAC W) f

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5 MF EATON’S HIGHLAND LINEN The most popular of all writ; Rew FON In white and a great variety of awed different sizes; both with plaj tissue-lined envelopes. From So pede. $1.00 the Box. ‘ CRANE’S” | CARRILLE = A white paper of dis. tinctive charm, water- marked in squares; with envelopes lined in green, red, gold and blue chintz design. $2.50 the Box. Er _ _ VOGUE in smart homes for the use of three kinds of writing paper is founded on a sense of what is appropriate. For the man and for miscel- laneous uses, a flat sheet of generous size is required; for everyday letters, a good grade of folded paper; and for very best, Crane’s, the aristocrat of all fine writing papers. Correct examples of the three kinds are shown on this page... .....+-- EATON, CRANE & PIKE CompANy—New York. Factories at Pittsfield, Mass., and Toronto, Canada. EATON’S DECKLE VELLUM Fine flat sheets of generous size for the man and miscellaneous uses. Deckle . edge with vellum finish, to fold twice. Cay if $1.00 the Box.

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LINEN Ag pa E’S .LE t Of dis. n, water: 'quares; es lined Zold and design, Box. 4 : > > THE CH4 LD VIRGINIA Virginian Pattern— Dessert Fork Set of Six—$7.50 Teaspoons—six—$ 3.75 Forks —six— 7.50 Knives (Stainless) —six— Gift boxes and chests The Colonial Fan Tran- som of early American Architecture furnished the design at top of han- dle.Themedalliondirect- ly beneath was inspired by the door-knocker found on Colonialdoors, CHS new Pattern in Heirloom Plate awakens memories of beauty and romance that were the Southland’s.... the charm of old Virginia! A design inspired by the doorways of old Colonial mansions, which today have become national shrines. By right of its design alone, The Virginian will withstand the test of time. And the famous Heirloom Plate quality, in which it is made, will endear it more and more with each year of faithful usefulness. Ask your Jeweler for The Virginian. Or write us for booklet showing pieces and prices, and name of dealer nearest you. WM. A. ROGERS, LTD., NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y. New York Chicago San Francisco Toronto | “fhe VIRGINIAN cA Wonderful New ‘Pattern in the Gamous Hemloom Plate From Generation to Generation | CARDINAL, ADELPHI

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& ATE Ret | Correct Apparel for Girls Our new and authoritative modes, for girls from 4 to 14 years, accepted by the best families of the United States as correct for every occasion, will be shown simultaneously in New York and throughout the country. Our representatives will shortly be in your own city to exhibit our newest creations of autumn and winter coats, dresses, suits and accessories for girls and young ladies, and complete outfits for boys. A card of admission to the exhibition will be sent at your request. " “umpen 1g900™ DE PINNA Importers and Outfitters 5th Avenue at 50th Street NEW YORK Vm NnUSBL ESS 2 VOGy O B LI Gy (Continued from page 126) heels changed to the leisurely, direct stares of the longshoremen. “Something must be wrong with Captain White’s folks,” one commented to the other. “Maybe the kid got hurt—that’s a nurse,’ came the retort. Along the string-piece, at the edge of the dock, the man and the nurse came to a low-lying coal-barge, before which Captain White stopped. “Just take a jump,” he said to the nurse, “and watch your step so’s you don’t miss it and fall in the water.” Once on the deck, the nurse was led into a tiny room where lay a woman amid great confusion and chaos. Her baby had been born just a few mo- ments before the nurse arrived, but nothing had been made ready for it. The young mother, an Englishwoman, a native of Africa, gazed with a vacant siare at the nurse. “Where are the little clothes you have prepared for the baby?” the nurse asked. “Didn’t prepare the apathetic reply. The nurse made a hasty survey of the barge and, in a barrel, found some old rags that she cleaned and con- verted into a makeshift garment for the baby. She arranged a little bed out of an old clothes-basket so that the baby would not need io sleep with its parents. She showed the father what had to be done to give care to the in- fant, for the father was the most in- telligent in the family and did most of the marketing and caretaking of the little family. any,” came A NEW PROBLEM As the nurse stood talking with the man, a little boy of four sidled up to them. He pointed directly over his father’s head and grunted. Captain White reached up and took down a toy from the shelf where the little one had pointed and handed it to him. “Can’t he talk?” the nurse asked. “He doesn’t need to,” the father answered. “He just points for things, and we can understand him.” After considerable inquiry, the nurse found that the little boy had no companions of his own age and was seldom talked to by his parents. Here was a problem for her—to try to make these parents realize that through dis- use the little boy was rapidly losing his power of speech. “T have so little time,’ Captain White said. “I have to do all of the marketing and sometimes the cooking here, and Wall Street is the poorest spot in all the world. You can’t even get a vegetable there.” When the nurse left the barge, she had given to Captain White the foundation for the future health for his new-born baby and the essentials of information that, if practised con- scientiously, would save his little boy from a life of helplessness and afflic- tion. There is a wide-spread belief that the Visiting Nurse gives care to her patient and then dismisses her case. And yet, a very great percentage of the work for which the Henry Street nurses have become known is their wel- fare work. Visits are made to families to educate them in_ public-health methods, in the value of preventive caution to guard themselves and their own against the spread of disease. The ideal set up by Miss Wald, in her slogan referring to the Visiting Nurse Service as “The twin service of educa- tion and ministration,” has been fos- tered and nurtured throughout the or- ganization. Typifying the kind of ignoray Me that the nurse finds in the Petey her patients and _ that she jigs de stantly combating is the Story re or to headquariers by a Henry ~. nurse recently. ™ “I went to a home the other day an: asked the mother cf the patie a : tooth-brush for him. Very proudl eh ] asserted that she had one and th ‘ climbed to the top of q Cuphaiet a searched for at least ten minutes a : finally jumped down, holding a : tooth-brush in her hand. “e ““‘T’ve always said,’ she sagely af. firmed, ‘that it pays to keep pl things on hand, for you never kno just when you are going to nee ‘ inte Dat PONE I va 2” them’, AN APPALLING IGNORANCE Some time ago, when through th Caruso trial the public became cog. I nizant that understanding of healt} precautions of the simplest kind wer # not common knowledge, they cou} scarcely believe that in this day ¢ A progress and medical achievement sui} conditions were possible. And ye each day brings new evidence of th: crying need that still exists for edu: } tion in the homes. Many of the familis that have in their midst a grani. > mother or a member of the older gen- : eration seldom call for the services of F a doctor or a nurse, but prefer to take advice*for the treatment of their sic F children from the grandmother or fron a neighbour. In one family such as this, a littl boy lay very ill with pneumonia. Th nurse was Called, and, by the time they F had consented to have a nurse see the boy, he was dying. She found a freshly killed pigeon lying on the boy’s breast This, the mother assured the nurs would prevent him from dying and would cure him in about three hours No amount of persuasion would cor vince her that this formality was in vain, for she explained that the Italians reverenced the pigeon, using a white one for the ailing chest and a blue on for the head. The bird was always killed in front of the patient and the warmth of his body was believed | draw the pain from the sufferer. The nurse did all she could for th child. He was beyond human aid, i the first place, and she decided that since nothing could save his life, there was no use trying to break the mother of her belief in this superstition, for, did the child die after she had taken the pigeon off his chest, the mother er at her door. The next day when the nurse came, mother sobbed her grief and said to the nurse, “You are right. FOREIGN SUPERSTITIONS In some homes of the foreign-bom patients, many “old country super stitions abound. It is believed ee erally among the uneducated clases Europe that should a mother turn ra back on her baby when they lay in same bed, the baby becomes po In some of the old Italian fal . the Visiting Nurses have found hd vet band on the neck of the tiny ee under which lay several thin io When questioned, the answer 4 variably is, “It is a teething © : that has been on the baby since was two months old. It keeps - pain and colds and helps the come through.” F (Continued on page 132) ae Oe IT Oct G6 it po © RUT! might lay the fault of the child's death Satin | © richne » hipors she found the little boy dead. His : P Sstones- geni b mort Shad | Ne This ows cloth Ir elem dant N

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VOGuM october 15, 1927 131 oda ty dividuality”’ says Paris. - here you have it of ignorayy ihe homes She is. cy, tory Teported Tenry Stres ‘i re SLE ale ther day af Patient for Proudly, sh. 1€ and the i af Cupboard a ninutes, ani fe ling a dusy; > > Sagely af. Keep sud never kno 1g tO need 4 ANCE hrough th ecame coy. of health Bf Kind wer fh they could his day d ement such And ye nce of th for educi- he familis a grand. older gen. services of fer to take their sick er or from is, a litte onia, The time they se see the 1 a fresh y's breast he nurse lying and ree hours ould con- y was in e Italians - a while blue one s always and the lieved t er. 1 for the 1 aid, in Jed that ife, there > mother ion, for, id taken mother ’s death RUTHE—Love/y Corticelli 4 Satin Sa-on artfully draped, the 2 came, —— of reallace, pendant and 1d. His f “!? °rnaments of coral and rhine- | stones—flashes of Irene Castle’s bow at the side. said to ~ Stashes: heavy silk fringe give this frock 5 genius in this lovely dress. an air subtly exotic. mn-born 3 T° +] T . . . . 7 i= . HE KIND of simplicity that is dashing only ses of in sport clothes has been the vogue from mn . » Morning until night. So much so that fashions Zz e . 7 b had become a little monotonous. nis ON a a site oe oie ¥ 3 — Paris dictates the return of individuality. babies is offers no problem to the woman who fol- wires JF ‘ows Irene Castle’s exquisite taste in choosing her er . clothes, - co ¢ she I ™— = : . we! rene Castle has a genius for transmuting the ; e e . ee ments of the mode into costumes of transcen- dant chic and becomingness. . Notice the graceful way in which she gives to WANA—The hipline is made snug by tying the blouse into a Deep ruby Corticelli Satin Tremaine and in the new IRENE CASTLE CORTICELLI one frock its uneven hem line; how in another she continues a surplice into a saucy bow; how cleverly she designs a one-sided neck, not for the front but the back. She knows, too, that silk of lovely quality must combine with smartness of line and detail for true effectiveness. So she insists that all her gowns be made of beautiful, rich, lustrous Corticelli Silks. Her coats, too, must be lined with them. Somewhere within your shopping range is a truly smart store where every month is shown a new collection of fascinating Irene Castle Corti- FASHIONS MUSIQUE—Sophistication is written in every detail of this dress from its new neck, square in front, slanted in back, to the rising tiers of its skirt of Corti- JULE—Soft fleecy cloth with fan collar of sable skunk. A throw over scarf sports a chic buckle. The back has a slender- izing V shaped panel. Lined celli Satin Tremaine, with Corticelli Satin Sa-on. celli Fashions. Do let us tell you where it is and send you a booklet showing this month’s dresses and coats. Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions Dept. 367, 498—7th Ave., New York Please send me the free booklet of the latest Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions. Name ; Street. — ‘ City State j

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dont: ie Pacers Nl wl a7 tere sb 132 or SPORTS of Q) run Ves -_ , The glory of the tournament, the regatta or the race may come and So, but devotees of DARTMOOR attire are untiring in their enthusiasm for the most thoroughbred sports wear in the land. Pictured is a coat of very choice imported novelty, collared and cuffed with natural lynx. Quite suitable for town wear—a veritable all=purpose coat. Write for our illustrated folder of Worumbo Camel’s Wool Polo Cloth Coats In the best sports and specialty shops DARCGCDOOKR Ooat Compan 13=21 East 22nd St. New York City unten HITTIN The HOSTESS PLANS 2 SMALL DINN (Continued from page 100) VENUS TORTE CAKE “This delicious cake was known in the Vienna of happier days as a venus torte and might be served with honey- dew and the milk of Paradise when procurable, so we are told.” One pound of butter is first clari- fied and, when it is cold, beaten to a cream. Twelve ounces of sugar, one pound of potato flour strained through a sieve, four whole eggs and the yolks of two, and the zest of a lemon are then added. The whole mixture is beaten for one hour, when it should form bubbles. It is baked in a buttered mould covered with fine bread-crumbs in a moderate oven. ROASTING A DUCK For a recipe for duck, equally popu- lar with men and women, these di- rections should be followed for roast- ing. A pair of nice young ducks are singed, washed, and drawn. The legs with the second joint and then the wings are removed. The breast and back are separated, and two pieces are made of the breast and two of the NOBLESSE (Continued from page 130) | Wh Many clinics are maintained by the Henry Street Visiting Nurse Service. There are the prenatal clinics where expectant mothers come for examina- tion and advice. Many of them can not afford the frequent necessary visits to the doctor, and the nurses’ clinics, in cooperation with the doctor’s clinic once or twice a week at the same centre, give them the care that is so essential for the normal delivery of a baby. In addition to these, pre-school clin- ics are conducted, where the child from one year to five years of age is brought for vaccination and Schick Test and where the mothers are advised as to the general care of the diet of the child. Posture classes are conducted, and the value of exercise in building up the muscle and correcting bone deformity is demonstrated to the mother so that she can practise these methods in her own home. Well-baby clinics, where the baby is brought so that she may be kept well, are a special feature of the Visiting Nurses’ work in their centres. Here, the old Chinese health pre- caution to “go to the doctor when you are well, to keep well,” rather than waiting until you become ill, is carried out. To extend the scope of the work of the Visiting Nurse Service and to tell the public what is being done for them, the Directors of the Service are launching Visiting Nurse Service Week on October 24. During this week, the work accomplished by the nurses will be shown in detail and will be on re- view, open to the public. Since the service is not a local one, every available medium will be used to back. The pieces are arranged pei in a baking pan, and one Pint of | chopped celery, a saltspoonful gf per, and two bay-leaves are sprin over them. A teaspoonful of dissolved in one pint of good sf chicken stock preferably, and brs to the boiling-point, This ig over the duck, and the pan is put wy a quick oven and cooked Y for one and a half hours, The me turned when it is partly done, gy when the duck is tender should be dry. The duck is C 4 removed, and two tablespoonfilg g | butter and two tablespoonfuls of fy | are put in the pan and mixed, afe which one pint of water or stock i added. This mixture is stirred until j | boils, when two tablespoonfuls | tomato ketchup, one-half teaspoon! — of salt, and a saltspoonful of Pepper ie are added. Some cooked mushroops and four tablespoonfuls of of sherry are added to the sauce, whit | is then poured over the duck. Ty |) platter is garnished with squares i toast with a pyramid of guava or cy. rant jelly on each and sent at oy to the table. OBLIG# tell people what the nurse—their frien! | sucl —can do for them, regardless of rac: ous creed, colour, or financial standing. In the last twenty years, forty-cight | countries have sent young women totalling almost five hundred, to th: Henry Street Settlement to study is methods so that they might bring bac to their own countries the technique 0! the Henry Street Visiting Nux par’ China, Austria, Liberia, West Indu} *, England, Russia, the Bahamas—te vita all have a corner of Henry Street 0 mos their cities. } | These young women come on the sti C of the Visiting Nurse Service for: . period of one year or longer and ¢ J Insf their practice and field-work experien Net in public health work in this way. i present, there is on the staff of th organization a young woman who bis been with the Henry Street Nursiz Service for several years. Within a fe | months, she will carry her trainmg! Liberia, where two million people a living with no nurse who has had at) training and only a handful of aval | able doctors. d All of this—the international cha acter of the Henry S:reet Nurs, the actual work that the nurse has A for the city, and the work a hopes to accomplish—will be ah during the week beginning October 1 by conferences, exhibits, charts, a actual displays of well babies who ow their health to the Henry Sir Any one who so desires will be at on a tour through the centres " be concrete realization of the wo Visiting Nurses may be had. Bros, Camb Mass,

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d mushroon: Sof cookin Sauce, whic! e duck, Th h squares of guava or cy. sent at op I Gi —their friend lless of race standing. 3, forty-eight Ing women Jred, to th: to study its t bring bact technique 0! ing Nur. West India 1amas—the) ‘y Street 2 on the staf rvice for: yer and gt! k experient ris way. Al taff of the in. who bis et Nursizy | ithin a fer | training © | people at: § as had at) 1 of avai onal chat: Nurse, th: has don - that she yetober 24 | arts, an ; who owe “eet nursé be taker os, go that ark of the s, BA stirred until i | spoonfuls ¢ | lf teaspoonh| ful of Pepper . a eo 7 1 Stockings of the Albertina Rasch ballet must always look lustrous and new in the Ziegfeld success, “Rio Rita” ‘EVERY Musical Show in New York ' ' uses Lux to double the life of stockings | What other stockings are subjected to such critical scrutiny and such strenu- ous wear as those worn in Broadway’s musical comedies? ILK STOCKINGS today are incredibly fine. And they represent such a large part of her clothes budget, that it is of vital interest to every woman to get the most wear from every single pair. Certainly no stockings meet such close inspection and such hard wear as those of New York musical shows. The wardrobe Lever Bros, Cu, 3 Cambri, ' Mass, 8, — IF IT’S SAFE IN WA mistress must keep thousands of dollars’ worth of cobwebby stockings in perfect condition. And she must make them /ast/ All the various soaps—different methods of washing—have been experimented with to find the safest way to wash sheer stockings. And the fact is disclosed that stockings washed in Lux wecr twice as long! ‘Twice as many per- formances from Lux-washed stockings as from those laundered by any other method! This means so much in dollars and cents that each producer has standardized the method by which the stockings of the entire cast are washed. As the famous star and producer, Eddie Dowling, puts it—““We would provide Lux for laundering stockings if it cost $1.00 a box!” Now the wardrobe mistress of every musical show in New York specifies Lux for washing silk stockings. All over the country women are using the same method of caring for silk stockings as the wardrobe mistresses of Broadway. Rubbing with cake soap, or exposure to the harmful alkali found in so many soaps—flakes, chips and — - MRS. BEATRICE CONIFF, the wardrobe mistress of the Shubert production, ‘‘A Night in Spain,’’ says, ‘‘Garter runs are more to be feared than any other stocking trouble. Any- thing which weakens the fabric of stockings must be avoided. That’s why I specifically warn our laundress against rubbing with cake soap, and strong soaps of every kind. I see to it that she uses only Lux for all of our stock- ings. They are swished about in lukewarm Lux suds and the last rinsing water squeezed out without twisting or wringing. And we get twice as many performances from Lux- washed stockings as we ever got from those laundered by any other method.” Women Everywhere Have Learned the Secret cakes—shortens the life of sheer silk stockings. Today most women use gentle Lux for washing their lovely hose, whether service weight or sheer- est chiffon — and stockings last longer and keep their ‘‘new’’ look. TER-IT’S JUST AS SAFE IN LUX

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lo Gad. Palm Beach - Se "aA T S after reading BLUE VOYAGE, by Conrad Aiken (Charles Scribner's Sons), we try to convey to others the impression it makes, at first only separate adjectives seem to arise in the mind: original—imaginative—sug- gestive—sensuous—delicate—decadent —clever—profound—humorous— per- ceptive—analytical—vivid—true—arti- ticial—distorted—beautiful. Can all of these be applicable? They seem con- tradictory, but, nevertheless, each one is apt. This is the story of a voyage across the Atlantic, through life, perhaps. The hero is a second-cabin passenger (mos! of us would fall into that class if this were an allegory), but the woman for whose sake he is sailing the sea is not on the other shore, but, unknown to him, above his head in the first cabin. There are two main threads in the story, one is made up of the outward circumstances and people on the voy- age—William Demarest, his fellow passengers, male and female (especially the latter), the ship itself, the weather, the games and conversations, the or- dinary shipboard life. All of these things are described most amusingly, in a simple, clear way, with no seeking after effect. This is what would usually be called the real part of the story, but it becomes illusory, like a veil stretched between us and actuality, as the other, the main thread, comes into view. The author, as it were, lifts a shu‘ter and lets us look down into Demarest’s self, and there we see the swift-flowing current of his memories, thoughts, passions, struggles, failures, and hopes, all pent in the narrow channel of the character that he is powerless to alter. The way in which this is done is extraordinarily clever and convincing. He does not tell us anything about himself, but we come to know his whole nature and history from the inside, little by little, just as we know our own lives. Life on board ship gives opportunities for what the French call risqué experiences, and of these Demarest has his full share, at- tractive as he is to the other sex, but above all this shines the higher love for which he longs. Even if we had never heard of Con- rad Aiken, we should know that this novel had been conceived by a poet who sees human life tossing on the sea, shut in itself as in a frail ship, helpless and ephemeral, sometimes ignoble and always confused, but, in spite of all, a thing of power. T may seem an easy thing to the in- experienced to turn off a romantic “thriller” full of political conspirators and their machinations, but, to any one who is inclined to try his hand in light- hearted fashion, we recommend MISS BROWN OF X. Y. 0., by E. Phillips Op- penheim (Little Brown and Company). After reading this book, we feel sure that he will be convinced that, after all, it is the skill of the cook and not the ingredients that gives flavour to the dish. Miss Edith Brown is a demure young woman, retiring and discreet in her manner, but not without charm for those who have eyes to see. She is a competent typist and stenographer, and, one evening on her way home from work, she loses her sense of direction in a dense London fog and sits down on the door-step of a house in a quiet square to rest and try to orient herself. The house door opens behind her, opens not only into a strange house, but into a world of sinister adventures and perils that suddenly transform this quiet young lady into a heroine able to face calmly the most difficult crisis and light up her humdrum existence with flashes of lurid colour. As _ is taeyYy By KATHERINE WISE MILLER usual with Mr. Oppenheim, the deals with internat.onal plots o% “ litical complications, The chat are many of them men of hedcaee position, charming people, too ‘em private capacity. The villaing On piece are Russian Bolsheyigts . whose hands are red With tl : of their own countrymen and wh seeking to plunge England into ne 4 revolu ionary struggle, The Whole “ takes on an air of grim reality ha scene is laid in the time of the an strikes when the entire social ine, of Great Britain seemed about to * up in ruin. However, in the book, a least, the clouds part as law and ort get the upper hand, and baleful con. spiracies are foiled, largely through i unobtrusive, but efficient work of Mi 1 Brown. She has _ been disinteresy throughout, not looking for any fee for her services beyond a reasonatl salary, but there is a reward ip stor for her, one that has always been hel sufficient to compensate a woman f any amount of trouble! “What rewg; can that be?” does the reader ask? lj. will tell him. “He took her in his am: and for the first time Miss Brown y; kissed upon her lips.” Mer le blood GRISELDA, by Doroth Scarborough (Harfer and Brother; is a novel in which a thread of siniste: fate runs through the lives of three ge erations. In the types of women o-§ posed to each other, one appears, as i were, successively reincarnated in t! Liliths, passionate, alluring, self sirens, contrasted with Irene and he daughter who live only for others, | the long conflict between these twom- tures, the heartless beauty always tr- umphs, and, moreover, her charm ha a poison in it that destroys all sense oi honour in the men over whom she cas her spell. Irene Robeline is in love wit a preacher, Gwinn Holden. He tum from her and marries Lilith, blue-eye golden-haired, and irresistibly cham: ing. She dies at the birth of her chil a daughter, and Holden then marris Irene for the sake of the baby. You Lilith grows up the image of ler mother, gay and fascinating, and al- sorbs her father’s love to the neglect his other children. She goes to Ne York to study music and is betray by her lover, Bill Chester, bearing son who dies at birth. Her stepmoth Irene, comes to her in her trou! nurses her back to health, and cot- ceals what has happened from | father to save him pain. On Lilit return home, she finds her young st sister, Tina, engaged to Dan Ripley, bi she so enthralls him that he elopes " her on the eve of his wedding. ?! tragedy then repeats itself, for Lili dies, like her mother before her, leavin: § an infant daughter. In the end, we § that Tina will forgive her faithless of and marry him in order to mother t third Lilith. The book is crowded wit minor characters, some of them dram with a good deal of power, especia the terrible old negress, Sheba. We at almost inclined to believe in her - : powers and the black arts she —e against Lilith, whom she hates. Alte all, what did it avail these woe | be beautiful and fascinating’ °'§ harm they did to others recoiled * themselves, and, at last, it 5 ™ Irene and her child who conque ot HE MARRIAGE OF HARLEQUDS © Pamela Frankau (Harper 4 Brothers), is by a young lady er herits so much novel-writing oe 4 that the incidents seem to flow i her brain almost without conscious (Continued on page 136)

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E A} eim, the Sty plots and jy. The characte, of high offic le, too, in the’ Villains of ,. Ishevists, 1, vith the blog N and who a» Nd into a fier, he whole gion Teality, for jh. le of the grey 0Cial structy, about to bres} n the book, » law and onde; d baleful cop. ‘ly through th. nen Work of Mis disinterest) for any Tewari | @ reasonabi ward in stor vays been heli @ Woman fo; “What rewari ff -ader ask? \j er in his arms iss Brown w, by Dorothy ind Brothers ead of sinister S of three gen. f women op. appears, as it rnated in the uring, selfish [rene and he: for others, In these twon- ty always tri- er charm his ys all sense o/ hom she casts is in love wit len. He tums ith, blue-eyed stibly charm: of her chill then marrisye baby. Youn nage of hirh ing, and ab- the neglect oF goes to Nei 1 is betrayel or, bearing ! r stepmotht: her troub! th, and cor: -d from th On Lilith: r young ste}: in Ripley, bu: e elopes wit! ‘edding. Th: f, for Lilit > her, leavin: » end, we st ‘aithless love: E 9 mother th: rowded wit! them draw! sr, especial) | reba. We arc i n her voodo) she practiss 5 hates. Afte! e women ! ating? Th recoiled 0 it is reall conquel. RLEQUIS, bi Jarper a” rdy who I ting facil » flow free onscious 136) October 15, 1927 Enti oolong, ARBITER OF FASHION FOR TWO CONTINENTS, PRESENTS PERFUMES ‘ AS CONCEIVED BY A COUTURIER hold that a — fe lissitin ) nell be ‘AQ PERFUMER Ensemble! Totality of effect! Harmony! These are the touchstones of the modern fashionable woman, as far as her costume is concerned. As a Grand Couturier I long ago proclaimed that the woman of sophisticated taste would ultimately seek harmony of ensemble above all else. Today, one sees in Paris costumes marvel- lously composed, veritable creations of art. The bag, the jewelry, the minutest details of costume accessories are exquisitely in key. I myself costume my clientele thus in many instances. And what doI find whenI cometcthe most important accessory of all—the perfume? Lovely in themselves, the perfumes one can buyare not conceived from the standpoint of a couturier, and have little if anything to do with the dynamic line of modern fashionable costuming. Therefore, to remain faithful to my own creed of ensemble harmony —I had to create Perfumes that would complete this totality of effect. I have called them modulations A, B and C. They are the Perfumes of a Couturier. They are harmonious with the fashionable costume tendencies of today. err . MN, sa may (= be a oo in the chew chico Below New York City—B. ALTMAN & CO. + BONWIT TELLER & CO. * KURZMAN + LORD & TAYLOR * SAKS—FIFTH AVENUE FRANKLIN SIMON & CO, * STERN BROTHERS + JAY THORPE * JOHN WANAMAKER (NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA) ALSO AT THE COMMODORE * BILTMORB * AMBASSADOR + PLAZA + Brooklyn—ABRAHAM & STRAUS + Newark—L. BAMBERGER & CO. Philadelphia—. F. DEWEE’S * STRAWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER + Boston—E.T. SLATTERY CO. * R.H. STEARNS CO. Baltimore—HOCHSCHILD KOHN & CO. * HUTZLER BROTHERS CO. + O'NEILL & CO. + Pittsburgh—jJOSEPH HORNE CO. KAUFMANN’S + Chicago—MARSHALL FIELD & CO. * MANDEL BROTHERS + CHAS. A. STEVENS & BROTHERS JOHN F. CARNEGIE, INC. (THE DRAKE AND THE BLACKSTONE) * CARSON PIRIE SCOTT & CO. * VON HERMANN’S PHARMACY (THE SHERMAN AND THE CONGRESS) * STEVENS HOTEL PHARMACY * HOTEL LA SALLE PHARMACY + Evanston—ROSENBERG'S JOHN VICTOR LEE,INC. + Detroit—HIMELHOCH BROTHERS & CO. * J. L. HUDSON « CO. * Grand Rapids—FRIEDMAN-SPRINGS Indianapolis—t. s. AYRES & CO. + Louisville—sTEWART DRY GOODS CO. * Cleveland—HALLE BROTHERS CO. * HIGBEE CO. Toledo—THOMPSON-RAINIE-BARBOUR CO. * Omaha—J.L. BRANDEIS & SONS * LEES RIALTO DRUG STORE FONTENELLE HOTEL PHARMACY + Lincoln—suUN DRUG CO. * CAPITAL HOTEL DRUG STORE * RUDGE & GUENZEL CO. Kansas City—EMERY, BIRD, THAYER CO. + PRESIDENT HOTEL PHARMACY * Atlanta—CHAMBERLIN-JOHNSON-DUBOSE CO. Dallas—NEIMAN-MARCUS CO. + TITCHE-GOETTINGER CO. * Houston—HARRIS-HAHLO CO. + Los Angeles—j. J. HAGGARTY J. W. ROBINSON CO. + B.H. DYAS CO, (VILLE DE PARIS) + Hollywood—MILADY’S SALON + San Diego—THE MARSTON CO. Oakland—tTHE H.C. CAPWELL CO. + San Francisco—H. L. LADD (ST. FRANCIS HOTEL) * THE WHITE HOUSE * I. MAGNIN & CO., INC. Berkeley—}. §. HINK & SON, INC. + Seattle—I. MAGNIN & CO., INC. * FREDERICK & NELSON * Portland—FRANK NAU MEIER & FRANK CO, * OLDS WORTMAN & KING + Tacoma—RHODES BROTHERS + Denver—DANIELS & FISHER STORES CO. DENVER DRY GOODS CO. + A.T. LEWIS « SON + Spokame—DAVENPORT HOTEL SPORT SHOP + Ft. Worth—THE FAIR— THE WOMAN’S STORE + Oklahoma City—BLANCHE CAVITT PERFUME SHOP * MC EWEN-HALLIBURTON CO. WWW LUC I EN | F lO NG. p AR | S AAA NEW YORK: 551 FIFTH AVENUE.

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136 No more shiny nose Smoothness coming Even texture Exit P arty Circles under eyes ° Wrinkles going Whiter skin

In the morning—you call on Nina again, and she plays foundation-cream with huge success. Your make-up 1s evener, your rouge more con-~ vincing—and—your powder goes on your nose to stay. Nina costs $3.50. And ajar lasts 6 months. So Nina saves money, time, space on your dressing table —and years on your face... If you haven’t met Nina, you can find her at any of the stores listed below. Or you can write direct to Produits Nina, Inc., 1 West 47th Street, New York, and she'll hurry to you by the next train. OOK for a little white jar witha lacquer-red label— and your troubles are over... You've found Nina, the new fluid cream,3 creams in one— bleach, nourishing, founda- tion—and cleverer than all of them put together. At night—a film of Nina, spicily Rinais delightful to use, rubbed in but not rubbed off—with a special fingertipful passed lightly ‘under youreyes.. .Day by day, your skin grows whiter, softer, smoother, freer from blemishes and wrinkles. And there areno discouraging “party circles "under your eyes. TULL ~~ an Orne eee eee eee ees ess aes a sS SS Where Nina Geranium Cream may be obtained * Asterisk indicates beauty parlor AKRON, Ohio: M. O’Neil Co. INDIANAPOLIS:

POUGHKEEPSIE: Luckey, BANY: John G. M Co. L. S. Ayres & Co. Platt & Co. eT ANTIC CITY OO E Blatt _H. P. Wasson & Co. PROVIDENCE: BALTIMORE: Stewart & Co. > aoe Cain. ————— x eo. . Fec 0. rou O. BARTLESVILLE, Okla.: Ce Fe a te, Co. ann E. W. Edwards & Son McCurdy & Company, Inc. Sibley, Lindsay & Curr Co. ST. LOUIS: Stix, Baer & Fuller Fe nn ed <2 LINCOLN: Miller & Paine *Sisson Bros.-Welden Co: LOS ANGELES: *May Co. LOUISVILLE: BOSTON: *Wm. Filene’s Sons P. Taylor & Co Ton go oy MILWAUKE Field, Schlick & Co BUFFALO: ee The Boston Store Galilean Rule . . MINNEAPOLIS: Schunemans & Mannheimers L. S. Donaldson Co. NEW BEDFORD: Cherry NEW YORK: B. Altman & Co. Lord & Taylor James McCreery & Co. Russeks, Inc. Saks—Fifth Avenue Saks—Herald Square Franklin Simon & Co. J. N. Adam & Co. William Hengerer Co. CINCINNATI: J. R. Peebles’ CHICAGO: *Bismarck Hotel *Palmer House CLEVELAND: May Co. COLUMBUS: Morehouse-Martens Co. DAYTON: Rike-Kumler Co. SALT LAKE CITY: *Walker Bros. D. G. Co. SAN DIEGO: Marston Co. SAN FRANCISCO: *H. Liebes & Co. , SAN JUAN, P. R.: Paris Bazar; Las Novedades. SCRANTON: Scranton Dry Goods Co. SEATTLE: Livingston Bros. DES MOENES: Stern Brothers Frederick & Nelson Younker Bros., Inc. *John Wanamaker SIOUX CITY: Pelletier Co. DETROIT: *Pennsylvania Hotel SPRINGFIELD, MASS.: Forbes & Wallace, Inc. SYRACUSE: E. W. Edwards & Son TERRE HAUTE: A. Herz TOLEDO: *The Blackmore Co. Lion Dry Goods Co. WASHINGTON: *Woodward & Lothrop YONKERS: Marshall Math- eson Co. *Roosevelt Hotel *Waldorf-Astoria Hotel PASADENA:*Maryland Hotel PEORIA: Block & Kuhl Co. *Book-Cadillac Hotel Crowley, Milner Co. DUBUQUE: Roshek Bros. DULUTH: Duluth Glass Block StoreCo. PHILADELPHIA: : *Bellevue-Stratford Hotel N. Snellenburg & Co. John Wanamaker PITTSBURGH: Kaufman’s Kaufman & Baer PORTLAND, Ore.: Liebes FRESNO, Cal.: *Myer Seigel & Co. HARTFORD: G. Fox & Co. HASTINGS: Stein Bros. Co. HOLLY WOOD, Cal.: *Jim’s HOUSTON: *W. C. Munn Co.

WHAT TaAEY

VOGUuR REA) (Continued from page 134) fort. She is so much a “Daughter of the Regiment” that, at the tap of the drum or touch of the pen, her ideas fall naturally into novelistic lines. Sidney Sherne, the heroine of the book is, like her creator, an authoress at the extremely early age of eighteen. And, as if the gods had conspired to try her by that most searching test, prosperity, her novel, “Cool Smoke,” is accepted at once, and, very shortly after, she falls heir to six thousands pounds a year, besides jewels of dazzling beauty and value! Lionel de Vitrand is also attractive in person, tall, “bronzed like a gipsy,” with grey-green eyes and an inscrutable smile. Those who did not like him said that he was “a bit of a rotter’—the reader must remember that this is an English book—, but Sidney falls in love with him at first sight, and he, being in need of money, kisses her the second time they meet and mar- ries her within a month. The rest of the story is, up to a certain point, what one would expect from such a beginning. She conceals her love at first for fear of boring him, and he is but an indifferent husband, merely going through the motions as far as is ab- solutely necessary. Gradually, however, he is subdued by her charm, while she becomes jealous and aloof, until they reach this paradoxical position: the loving woman is more and more es- tranged, and the cold-hearted, money- seeking man has actually fallen in love with his wife. All sorts of com- plications result from this state of things. Lionel devotes himself to a brilliant actress, which gives the author- ess a chance to introduce an amusing view of life on the other side of the footlights; divorce is threatened, but we hope that we have said enough to show that this is, as the publisher says, “a vivid and provocative book,” and, as for the style, it is easy, rather over- coloured, and fully up todate in phrase- ology and expression. The setting, of course, is London, Paris, and Monte Carlo at their smartest. HE WIND THAT WOULDN’T BLOW, by Arthur Bowie Chrisman, with silhouettes by Else Hasselriis (E. P. Dutton and Company), is a delightful book. We do not know if its contents are really Chinese stories, but, if they are, the children of the Middle King- dom are much more fortunate than the young people of our supposedly favoured land. Nothing so good has appeared for years, here where the juvenile world is fed on clumsy, unimagina- tive “adventure stories” written in a dialect made of equal parts of bad grammar and slang. It is a relief to read these charming little tales, fanciful and touching as Hans Christian Ander- son at his best. Nothing could be pret- tier than the one about Ah Choy and his encounter with the “Shen” who presides over marriage destinies. This potent demon had two skeins of threads, one red and one blue. He explained that the blue represented maids and the red, men. “I tie a certain blue thread to a red one,” he said, “and some day that girl will marry that man.” Ah Choy found out whose thread was matched with his own, but he was not pleased with his marriage fate, so, to escape, he left his native village and wandered out into the world. At last, grown rich and famous, he falls in love, and who should his charmer prove to be but the very girl whose blue thread was tied to his as a child! The story that gives its name to the book is also charming. It tells of a country where there was no wind and of Fan Shih, a girl who invented some- thing that made a breeze, “an instru- ment of cooling,” which w after her. Do we not om in a a fan? The illustrations in shou are extraordinarily clever and a sive. As in Du Maurier’s cme drawings In PETER IBBETSON, the like another aspect of the text Ain the spirit of the stories so wel they hardly need words at all re taken with the quaint phraseology. liv liness, and humour of the uve a make an artistic and harmonious whe OYS who went eagerly to see “Th, J Greatest Show on Earth” at ry original Madison Square Garden Used to bring away a dazzling impression of chariot-races, trapezes, acrobats, clowns and trained animals, but, above all of : of F brilliant satin Costumes, spangles a large as dinner-plates, and a crashin military band. In circus PARADE ; Jim Tully (Albert and Charles Boni) the parade is a comparatively poor and tame affair. And, shabby as it is, we see it from the inside, shorn of wha‘. ever make-believe glitter it might show to the public. This, however, is pre- cisely the thing that makes it interest. ing. In spite of the hard work, the bru. tality, the vermin, we like to travel with “Cameron’s World’s Greatest Combined Show,” and so get to know people like the Moss-Haired Girl Denna the Lion Tamer, and the Strong Woman, who had a weak woman's heart under her tremendous muscles, There is a fascination in knowing how they actually live and their real charac- ters outside the circus tent. The animals are even more attractive as one comes to see them off the stage, and we are pleased to make the acquaintance even of “Bad Bill,” the vicious lion. One of the best chapters is about the ek- phant, “Roxie,” who thought out a most ingenious way to punish a man who annoyed her friend Goosey, the elephant trainer. She invented and car- ried out a clever trick that resulted in her enemy’s being knocked on the head while she stood by and waved her trunk indifferently in the air. There are fighting, cheating, and cruelty enough in these sketches, but there are also real humour and tenderness in the descriptions of circus people. One feels that here are no imaginary characters, but portraits drawn from actual ex- perience among them, by one who had himself shared their wandering life and knew that, even in the mud through which they tramped, lovely flowers might sometimes be found. HE WOMEN AT POINT SUR, by Robinson Jeffers (Boni and Live- right), is a long poem in blank verse, a tragic narrative of a hundred and seventy pages. It tells the story of Dr. Barclay, a preacher who renounced all faith, cut himself away from all laws, and broke every tie. He leaves church, © home, wife, and child; henceforth, he 7 declares, he will not speak, but ah | for “God thinks through action, how shall a man but through action?” e takes refuge in a lonely, half-ruined farmhouse near the Light House ® Point Sur, where live Natalia Morhead, her child, and her aged father-in-law. In the house, also, are a gitl name Faith Heriot and an Indian servatt Maruca. Strange, unhallowed relations exist between two of these women, c old man lies helpless in his attic = and into the sombre household a brings his wild visions and his —_ of utter freedom. “All that was = when you were a child is rubbed 0 nothing you can do is wrong, hat seen God, no act is a sin.” Suda” his words, to which he sults his a (Continued on page 138)

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IGUR AD vas Called NOW it as silhouette id expres. e€Xquisite » they are Xt, giving well that all, but dlogy, live. style, they Ous whole, D see “The h,” at the rden, used oression of its, Clowns, ove all, of angles as a crashing "ARADE, by rles Boni), y poor and $ it is, we 1 of what. night show er, is pre- it interest- k, the bru. to travel Greatest >t to know ired Girl, the Strong FF ¢ woman's & iS muscles, owing how -al charac- “he animals one comes ind we are itance even lion. One ut the ele- ght out a ish a man roosey, the d and car- at resulted ced on the ind waved air, There 1d cruelty t there are ness in the . One feels characters, actual ex- e who had Jering life ud through ly flowers Freee r suR, by and Live- lank verse, ndred and ory of Dr. ounced all n all laws, ves church, ceforth, he , but act, ction, how tion?” He half-ruined & House 0 e 1 Morhead, her-in-law. gir] named in servant, d relations yomen, te attic room, yd Barclay is doctrine was true ubbed out: ng; I have » Such at its his a 138) EE pa Ss octob e SE Pik. Gegh pe MOE tag ee aT A ‘agg At ba eas, 1927 ae agers ONE This tea set, fashioned in England, was inspir ed by the work of Paul Lamerie, foremost silver- smith of the early 18th century. It is indicative of the quality and character of the silverware, ly made available by antique and modern, constant J.E.CALDWELL Philadelphia A NEW BOOK “Facts Concerning Antique English Silver and Ol & CO. d Sheffield Plate’ will be forwarded upon request.

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WHAT tions. It would be impossible in this space to give a clear idea of the events that are half seen through the poem like great logs rolling partly submerged in breakers. There are fine ideas and images in the verse, much that is dark and unclean also, but, in some places, remarkable power and beauty. As this author has been pronounced by a competent authority to be one of the foremost poets of all generations, we subjoin a few quotations to show his style and force. ““The God of the stars has taken his hand out of the laws, and has dropped them empty as you draw your hand out of a glove.” “There is nothing but shines though it shines darkness; nothing but answers, they are caught in the net of their voices, though their voices be silence.” In clos- ing, we give the following description : “The ocean like sleek gray stone per- fectly jointed to the heads and bays; a woman walking upon it, the curling scud of the storm around her ankles. Naked and strong, her thighs the height of the mountain, walking and weeping. The heavy face hidden in the hands, the lips drinking the tears in the hollow hands, and the hair streaming north.” T sometimes happens that prizes are awarded in literature, as well as in life, to the undeserving, but that is not the case with the biography cailed SHAKESPEARE, ACTOR-POET, by Clara Longworth de Chambrun (D. Appleton and Company), which merits all the praises and honours that have been be- stowed on its author. Madame de Chambrun gives proof in this volume, not only of true scholarly attainments, but of the most painstaking labour, as the long list of authorities she has con- sulted abundantly shows. Her mind is saturated with Shakespeare’s thought, and she has at her fingers’ ends, not only the familiar lines that every one can quote, but things no less splendid and not so well known in the plays and poems. She is particularly interesting when she traces the inspiration of many of the poet’s finest verses to incidents and experiences of his early life. For instance, Juliet’s terror at the thought of being shut into the tomb was sug- gested, Madame de Chambrun thinks, by the tragic fate of Charlotte Clopton, a girl who had lived near Stratford in Shakespeare’s youth, which she analyses with intimate knowledge. In this se- FROC y You will instantly recognize the expressive Parisian touches in these nationally famous 67.0000). 0 0) Dir telel) 10). @ Me DJ cu) oe Belay are always exclusively new in fashion and fabric. Look for the KORTLEE label—it identifies the genuine. Write to KORTLEE FROCK INC., 525—7thAve., N.Y.C. for store name in your city featuring KORTLEE FROCKS quence, as she says, “Shakespeare has given in poetic form his own sentimen- tal biography.” She does not hesi‘ate to identify the young man to whom the first series was addressed as Lord Southampton, in spite of the con- troversy that has arisen on this point, and she is equally sure as to the per- sonality of the mysterious “Dark Lady.” No book on Shakespeare could be writ- ten without reference to the reputed authorship of Lord Bacon. It is im- possible to go into this subject here, but Madame Chambrun deals exhaus- tively with the whole question, to which she brings a wealth of information and research such as has seldom been represented. Needless to say, she be- lieves in Shakespeare’s authorship and, in reply to an objection often raised, proves that his education and training were sufficient—given, of course, his extraordinary natural gifts—‘to account for the varied knowledge displayed in his works. The book is beautifully il- lustrated with portraits and facsimiles of manuscrip‘sand is also supplied with copious notes and index for the benefit of scholars and critics, while the or- dinary reader will delight in the flowing style in which are set, like jewels on every page, lines quoted from the great Actor-Poet. The volume is valuable in Tae, (Continued from page 136) VOGy; R E ADE itself and still more so because no can read it without the desire to tr back to the work of Shakespeare fe world will never tire Of tales : of adventure on land and sea, and when to this perennial charm are adder knights in shining armour with tos mn and glittering blades, as well as Indian on the war-path, no one under sixten can resist it, and even people who have lived a little longer feel the attraction FOR THE GLORY OF FRANCE, by Everet McNeil (E. P. Dutton and Company) begins in true Stanley Weyman gy} with hand-to-hand fighting in the nay row streets of Honfleur where the Siey; de Champlain is about to get sail fo, the New World, in April, 1608, Ti, are two boy heroes, a somewhat rE unusual feature, and they need all o; | their you‘hful vigour and dash carry them through the Struggles an perils into which they are plunged from | the very first. Hotly pursued by thei: Catholic enemies, they take refuge o: board Champlain’s ship and conce; themselves in the hold. Here, naturally they subsist on the cargo and amu themselves by killing rats until they ar discovered through the agency of 2 traitor who has penetrated to the ver depths of the ship for his own wicke! purposes. They are brought before th brave Commander who is convinced of their innocence, and they become his devoted followers. On reaching wha | we now call Canada, new dangers and | excitemen’s are added in the shape oi wars with the savage Indians, in which Robert de Boville and his faithful Noel | Bidoux have many hairbreadth escapes but their own bravery and the favour of the great Champlain always stand | them in good stead. They are cap- tured by hostile Iroquois, are lost i the forest, and nearly fall victims to th treachery of a band of mutineers and, by means of these adventures, \ are given a stirring description of th discoveries and conquests made |; Champ!ain. When at last they win their way back to France, not only does: charming romance develop for Robert but there is a surprise in store for the reader and Noel that brings the curtain down on a happy ending. oe HE MYSTERY AND LURE 07 FEI FUME, by C. J. S. Thomps (J. B. Lippincott Company), is an En- glish contribution to the library and one of no little human interest. The view-point is sociological rather than scientific, but the information is his | torically exact and is presen‘ed in‘ clear, pleasant fashion. The origin at? uses of scent are traced from the tim of the ancients to the present day, an all manner of curious facts are brough’ to light. Old formule, the favourite perfumes of famous personages, & cerpts from the ledgers of court # fumers, facsimiles of the bills rendered to kings and queens—all these add : lively interest. Napoleon had a gf fondness, it seems, for eau de Cologne of which he used as much as sit bottles a month! The book sugsts* many delightful ways of enhancit feminine charm. HE title of Mabel Osgood Wright book, CAPTAINS OF THE WAI OF LIFE AND DEATH (Macmill Company ), sounds like a tale of pirat: cal adventure, but it is as far remove as possible from stormy s¢as, ben simply, as the author says, “A frien / little book about trained nurses o untrained patients.” In those ° ; fashioned romantic days when om , the favourite occupations of 2 9” (Continued on page 162)

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VOGu; October 5, 1927 : fA) 3 a Cause NO one a esire to tun FF Kespeare. tire of tales and sea, and FM are added fF With tosginy Il as Indians inder sixteen 2 dle Who hay fe attraction fy » Dy Everey 1 Company) eyman style in the nar. re the Siey; Set sail fo; 1608. There somewhat your Et face and riggs af your lunged from ed by their e refuge on nd concey! | [ le >, Naturally O r LI and amus itil they an ency of a to the ver wn. wicked before the F mnvinced of become his (i hing wha fF angers and ie shape of s, in which ithful Noe! th escapes: the favour vays stand F "are Cap- are lost in tims to th: mutineers ntures, W ion of th made b; y win their uly does a or Robert re for the he curtain cts io) wat er Before frock, figure or manner, a woman is judged by her face... “a pretty girl,” “a distinguished-looking woman,” “smart,” or “beautiful” is said, according to the impression given by a face—and its all-important make-up. And one really can’t afford (for fortune’s sake) to use powder of a lesser quality than the finest — Houbigant Face Powder. For 1 50 perfumed years, Houbigant has created the finest powders in all the world, and none is quite so delightfully fragrant, velvety-soft, and last- ingly adherent. The exquisite odeurs are Subtilité, Quelques Fleurs, Le Parfum Ideal, Mon Boudoir, and Le Temps des Lilas. Its true tones are naturelle, rachel, > OF FER Thompso is an En- brary and srest, The ther than on is hiss n‘ed in? § yrigin and . the time § day, and e brought © _ ; rosée, ocre rosée, ocre, and blanche —$1. 50. po 2 é The same powder, but in compact form, with rouge, is 7 : in the new double compact designed by a Parisian jew- ~ o eler. The compact is six-sided —unusually good-looking sues —thin, and light in weight—$z.50. We would like to send you five sachets perfumed with the five odeurs mentioned above, and the booklet, Fi Things Perfumes Whisper.” Please write for them. | Wright’ ; WATCH | Houbigant, Inc - Dept. 104, 539 West 45th Street, New York facmillax | . of pirat! - removed . fr jend!} rses an’ ose old: n one af a swetl 52) v ee a oe ae 500? > ¥ ae ‘ er : / HOUBIGANT PARIS

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140

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-- Gifts for the Qutwnn Bride: HER JOYOUS BOUDOIR CLOCK is a Gift she dearly prizes @Her heart thrills to those lovely personal gifts that have the color of romance....her rings of betrothal | and marriage; a jewel box luxuriously French; and—because it pulses with beauty—a charming BOUDOIR CLOCK. @, For a boudoir clock is a wonderful gift, lending a vital influence and a decorative touch. To be sure, it is a New Haven Clock whose dependability in time-telling and loveliness of design are the work of artist-craftsmen. @, Admire the many models of New Haven Clocks at your dealer’s. Clocks for every room in the home. Tambour or banjo models; chime clocks of musical tone; and smaller timepieces for desk or bracket. G, AZ priced mo moderately. PICTORIAL [Left] An 8 day easel clock of smart, refined charadter. Solid mahogany; decorative dial. Height 7 inches. $16 NY PEERLESS [Right] —An entrancing design! An 8 day easel boudoir model; solid mahogany; delightful, color- ful dial. Height 7 inches. $16 \ N AY

Prices slightly higher in the far West and Canada NEW HAVEN CLOCKS Made by the makers of Good Clocks for more than five generations Copr. 1927, N. H. C. Co.

ww - HAVEN + CLOCKS +: BEAUTIFY . THE + HOME | ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDEn?T 2 { § | NY reader can obtain from Vogue Information Service answers to questions on social conventions, cus- toms, entertaining, and matters of eti- quette; on costume and fashion; on household decoration; on shops and wholesale houses dealing in merchan- dise of interest to Vogue readers, and on other subjects that fall within the scope of this magazine, by conforming to the following regulations. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS (1) The name and address must be legibly written or printed at the be- ginning or end of every letter. (2) In order to answer all inquiries promptly, Vogue suggests that as few questions as possible be asked in any one letter; a reply may be delayed be- cause of the totally unrelated questions contained in a letter, any one of which may require a_ considerable amount of research to answer it adequately. (3) Unless specially requested to keep a reply confidential, Vogue is privileged to publish any inquiry and answer that it considers of interest to its readers. Miss M. K.: What measures can be followed in diet and exercise to in- crease one’s weight? Ans.: It is not necessary to eat heavy foods to increase one’s weight, nor should fruits and green vegetables be forgotten. Creamy milk is the ideal drink and may be taken frequently be- tween meals. The following list of foods is especially recommended to the very thin person. One should make one’s own choice and combinations, for the nourishing quality of what one eats is to some extent governed by how much one enjoys it. FRUITS—Figs, dates, prunes, bananas, grapes, and raisins. VEGETABLES—Potatoes, sweet pota- toes, beets, beans, lentils, pease, car- rots, parsnips, corn, squash, oyster- plant, creamed onions, and creamed cauliflower. GRAINS—AIl] starchy or farinaceous foods, such as rice, macaroni, spa- ghetti, noodles, hominy, crackers, cake, tapioca, and cereals. risH—Crab, shrimp, salmon, shad, mackerel, clam, and oyster cream stews. MEATS—Bacon, ham, fat beef, sau- sage, mutton, goose, duck, and chicken. SALADS—Potato, egg, and beet. Eggs, milk cream, butter, cheese,nuts, puddings, preserves, ice-cream, cocoa, chocolate, and malted milk are also included. Plenty of exercise should be taken; walking, golfing, swimming, bas- ket-ball, or hand-ball are all good. All of these sports help to develop the mus- cles, making one strong, rather than stout. Tennis is not advised for the too-thin person, as it is too strenuous. Miss E. H.: Does a bride use the initial of her family name as her middle initial after she is married, or does she retain the first letter of her own middle name for the middle initial after her marriage? Should a bride wear gloves when long sleeves partly cover her hands? Ans.: A bride whose maiden name is “Helen Marie Jones” and who later be- comes “Helen Smith” uses the mono- gram “H. J. S.” She does not use the initials of her own middle name. A bride does not wear gloves unless she wants to, regardless of the length of the sleeve. If she thinks that gloves are more becoming to her, then she should wear them. VOGU;

Mrs. J. D.S.: When a entertains for her son's Wife afternoon party at which only rab are present, is this function q tea cheques be signed and endorse ‘a Ans.: For little boys and rie 4 ages, one-strap shoes or Oxfor , (Continued on page 142)

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VOGU; ENTs ‘other-in-jy., fe Wife at “ P only ladies D a tea or, e a SUitable lon? ON betweep n Is Tequired lying it ¢ wuld say tha: € formal in B JUSt ag cor. t method of : to send oy © meet My n ink above € Written a S Of varioys 1 would }: refreshment one Wishes n. the correc; Phone cal, sage of one’ fe Ars. Brown’ | € might say, rown if she 2” To Mr, fe é is not an 3, “This is The correct | e call is to | ly into the > Wise ig e1- € person at In America, (© Hello,” but, |) me increas- on who an- | rs. Kensing- | Mrs, Ken- | ng then an | nd asks for with whom rson wanted telly to the e is not a e stated at s there any sage should a See dal costume 1 extremely n wedding? the groom? to have her th the three me? moon dress ld be more -dding than n and veil. r the nev § d becoming example) arming (0s tances, the y coat with e does nol ear a short i sual form! 5 ht or dak 5 priate at * bride 1 her maidet » name sh people col ie etter cho at are to boys of i Ei ittle git! «! where 0 ne use 0! ow shout dorsed? girls of )xfords, ® 142) 141 Friends Praised Them”. . . says Mrs. ROBERT I. VANDERBILT ee ise Coils of fine, resilient steel deep buried in luxurious upholstering — here is re- vealed the secret of the Beautyrest’s supreme comfort! These coils extend to the mattress edge. Such square boxed sides! You can sit on them—they won't be crushed. “An improvement every housewife will be grateful for,” says Mrs. Vanderbilt. SIMMONS In Mrs. VANDERBILT’S BEDROOM the colors are French blue and apricot. Her Simmons Twin Beds are Model No. 1534, with Simmons Springs and Beautyrest Mattresses. “Exceptionally comfortable,” says Mrs. Vanderbilt Steichen Mrs. Rospert T. VANDERBILT who was Miss Mildred Bedford before her marriage, is a charming member of New York’s younger married set, and the gracious mistress of two lovely homes—an apartment on Park Avenue, furnished with rare English antiques, and a country house at Greens Farms, Connecticut, decorated in the Early American manner “TYRIENDS told me of the unique comfort of these mat: tresses,’ says Mrs. Robert T. Vanderbilt. “At an exclusive apartment hotel they found the beds exceptionally restful and comfortable. They asked: ‘What are they?’ ‘Simmons,’ was the answer. Now I have these marvelous mattresses in my own room. All that was said of them is true. The construction gives a luxury different from all others.” This marvelous Beautyrest Mattress was perfected by Simmons, largest makers of beds, springs and mattresses. Its unique construction is the secret of its comfort—resilient coils of finest steel hidden in luxurious upholstery. These little coils, too, uphold the sides, keeping them smart, clean-cut. In furniture and department stores you will find this greatly improved Beautyrest, $39.50; Rocky Mountain Region and West, $41.50; hair- upholstered, $60 to $100. Simmons Beds, $10 to $60; Springs, $7 to $60. Look for the name “Simmons.” The Simmons Company, New York, Chicago, Atlanta, San Francisco. BEDS « SPRINGS « MATTRESSES { BUILT FOR SLEEP }

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H charming OME—as some cynical person has said—is the place to come to when all the other places are closed. Better say that home is where your tired feet will find your faithful Comfys waiting to give rest and peace to weary nerves. There is so much to do, these busy days, that the wise woman sets aside a regular time, when nerves and muscles can relax, in the soothing surround- ings of the Comfy Rest Hour. Thousands of busy women have found in this simple health regime the surest relief for jangled, overstrained nerves. Many women find the different creations of Daniel Green so attractive that they have a separate pair to harmonize with cach negligee. So many styles to choose from—fine, pliant leather; soft, cozy felts; rich brocades or dainty satins—with high heels or soles as soft as a tiger's tread—you must ask your dealer to show them to you soon. This famous DANIEL GREEN FELT SHOE CO. Dolge Avenue DOLGEVILLE 45 Years of Making Fine Slippers for Men, Women and Children NEW YORK Danielbreen Comfy Slippers {G)Daniel Green) trade- Z te f mark is your assurance z om of long wear and en- tire satisfaction. REG ACK -.5-3) = PATENTED AUG 10,1920 Look for it in the slip- pers you buy. Any repu- table dealer can_ buy genuine Daniel Green Comfys. ANSWERS VOGU; TO CORRESPONDENT} (Continued from page 140) white buckskin, canvas, or tan leather, are the best for every day wear; black patent leather for best wear. These shoes should be absolutely plain, and they will always be in good taste. White socks should be worn with black and white shoes, and beige socks should be worn with tan leather shoes. The socks should be of knitted lisle in summer and knitted wool in the winter. In writing letters to shops with which one has charge accounts, one should sign the Christian name with the fam- ily surname, as “Helen Jones” and then, a little below and to the left, in brackets “(Mrs T. L. Jones).” In this way, the person written to knows how to address one in replying. In signing a cheque, one uses one’s own name with one’s husband’s surname after it, as in writing letters. How- ever, if the cheque were made out to one as “Mrs. T. L. Jones,” and one were endorsing it, it would be better to avoid any question from the bank by signing “Mrs. T. L. Jones” with “Helen Jones” underneath. Mrs. W. M. A.: Is it correct for the father of the bride to take her to meet the groom at the altar and then to sit down, or must he stand during the ceremony and go out with the other at- tendants? If the bride wears a going- away gown, is it permissible for her maid of honour to wear a similar cos- tume ? Ans.: The father of the bride always walks in with her, stands at the altar with her until that part of the cere- mony that says “who giveth this woman ?,” and then, after having re- plied, quietly steps back and sits in the first left-hand pew. That side of the church pews is always reserved for the bride’s family, as they are the host to the bridegroom’s family, who sit on the right. When the bride wears a dress that she is going to keep on for going- away, her attendant should wear some- thing of the same type, not similar in design, but in degree of formality or informality. Miss J. T.: Is it correct for the daughter of a family to use her father’s crest upon her note-paper ? Ans.: A crest is supposed to belong to the family, and a young woman is perfectly correct in using her father’s on anything she may wish, so long as she is single. Mrs. S.G.: What fur is a good choice for a coat that must stand the rough wear of driving in an open car and will also be entirely suitable for wear in town? Ans.: Beaver and nutria are classic furs that stand out each season for their conservative good taste and prac- ticality. Goat is the leading sports fur of the season. It is smartest when it is shaved to form a soft flat fur, but the shaggy goat is also worn. These goatskin coats may be either in grey or beige, and they are practical in that they will stand a great deal of wear, and they may be worn in town. Ameri- can broadtail is second only to goat for informal wear. In beige or in light brown, it is an excellent choice. Other furs that are used this season for in- formal coats are pony, which is so practical that it retains its popularity, and sheared baby leopard, a novelty of the season. Mrs. F. S.: What is the correct size, lettering, and form for the calling- card of a married woman? What are its various uses? How soon should calls be made upon newcomers? Ans.: A married woman’s visiting- card should be engraved with } name, and address. Si lettering looks smarter than large Th card of a lady is usually from abou Fe two and three-quarters to three ang one-half inches wide, by two to two and 4 three-quarters inches high, but there jg no fixed rule, Cards are left by Doli people to show that they have a in person for the first visit of the sa. son, for instance; also, in recognitio, of the fact that they have been ask to some enteriainment; also, ag a indication of new relationship whey an engagement takes place; or of cour. tesy to a newcomer, such as q4 bride or any stranger whom they may wish to welcome; also, when making jp. quiries about a friend who hag be — ill; and as a sign of sympathy for thos in affliction. Cards are sometimes sen by post when people can not a tend some function of a nature to} general to require answered invita. | tions, but wish to mark their r P membrance of the date, though this is less done now than it was formerly There is no set rule that one can fol low in regard to visiting newcomers One visits them at one’s convenience. and they return the call at their cop venience. Miss A. L.: What sort of a fun: i om seat | aC ae tion is a sorority tea? How should [ a freshman in a_ university respond to her invitation to such a tea? How |) © long should one remain at a tea of this sort? Ans.: A sorority tea is no different than any other afternoon tea, except that a girl is invited for the purpose of being observed as a future prospect of the particular Greek-letter society to which she is asked. If the invitation extended were in the form of a note,it FT should be answered informally on note F paper. However, if it were on a formil FF engraved card, one might follow th same form in accepting or declining fF for instance: Miss Ruth Martin accepts with pleasure the kind invitation of the Alpha Omega Sorority on such and such a date at such and such a time When going from one sorority hous to another, one might stay anywhere from a half-hour to three-quarters of an hour at each. Mrs. H. A.: Is it correct to put R.S. V. P. on an invitation to a large te, ps > when the tea is given at a hotel? Should a woman rise when another woman stops at her table ina hotel ot restaurant ? Ans.: When a hostess sends out al nouncements for an afternoon tea, she does not expect to receive any answes and, therefore, uses no R. S. V. P. her invitations. She prepares for three- quarters of the guests aske 4 all. If a woman is seated at a tam in a restaurant, and a woman? her own age and _ standing stoPs od chat, she does not usually me the woman were a_ stranger Wl whom she was on very formal terms she might rise. Mrs. H. H.: Should a spoon always be used in drinking bouillon from {wor s? eo It is usual to use a spoon whet drinking bouillon from a CUP wi the bouillon has become cool, when pe ple are verv likely to finish pe few mouthfuls by drinking te d, that 8 §

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VOGU; mm Oc JENTs ste, and smal fie ‘an large. Th, y from abou ‘a to three ang WO to tio and a 1, but there is I left by polite * y have come It Of the seq. N T€Cognition 'e been asked | also, as an Onship when >; or of cour. h as a bride ley May wish 1 making jp. rho has beey ithy for those Metimes sen; can not at ASE oe 1 Nature too F ered invita. F their re. though this vas formerly, F one can fol. Newcomers, F- convenience, q it their con t Of a func. iS How should sity respond a tea? How : at a tea of fe no different tea, except e purpose of prospect of r society to e invitation of a note, it ally on note F* on a forma F follow the r declining, F in ure if the rity date time ority house y anywher quarters of to put R.$ a large tea t a hotel? en another 1 a hotel of nds out all- yon tea, she ny answels 5. V.Po re Ba a5 ie ae ae ae ae s for thre ed, that 8 at a table woman d & g stops 1 nger Wit! mal terms, oon always from two poon whet cup unt when pe h the hs g them. tober 33, 1927 To PREPARE THE WAY Begin using Tangee Night Cream tonight. A bit to cleanse. A bit to nourish . . . It will quickly im- prove and refine the texture of your skin—and so give you the “first step to loveliness” . . . But look for the name “‘Tangee”’; most nourishing creams don’t cleanse. $1 For True TEXTURE—AND No Suiny Nose! Start with Tangee Day Cream tomorrow—the perfect base for powder—soft and white as snow, delicately perfumed . . . and you’ll achieve the “second step to loveliness” . . . The name ‘“Tan- gee’ on every jar protects you from too heavy creams that clog the pores. $1 For Youtu’s Own Glow Spread on the tiniest dab of Tangee Créme Rouge—and see it change color, like magic, as it touches your skin—from orange to blush-rose— and the shade blends with YOU! For Tangee rouge changes color as it goes on to blend with every complexion—blonde or brunette—and is permanent and waterproof. $1 It is so easy to take these SIX STEPS......to Loveliness! Think! It’s just six steps from where you are to true loveliness—the love- liness of a smooth, clear skin, and radiant natural color ... You have the possibilities in yourself right now ... And here are all the requisites — it’s so simple, so easy to use them! AND VERSATILITY Little things like going from sunlight to artificial light, putting on your hat, or taking it off—they make alterations in youth’s vividness you may copy, if you have Tangee Rouge Compact—with you!... It’s the same color magic in caked powder form, with convenient puff and mirror. 75c For FLower-PETAL PERFECTION You need a powder that’s so fine, so fluffy, so clinging that it smooths and perfects the texture of your skin without itself being detected — Tangee Face Powder! In the five true shades: Peachblow, Rose, Cream, Rachel and White—packed so you can see the shade. $1 AND IRRESISTIBLE Lips Tangee Lipstick, the last and most important step to loveliness—color magic that changes from orange to blush-rose as it touches your lips—a Sorcerer’s wand that gives you Nature’s glow of youth— the final touch of glamour we all most need .. ; And it’s waterproof and lasts all day! $1. (Don’t forget the coupon—and Youth won’t forget you!) ‘THE POWER OF. . TANGES TO TAKE sor BEAUTY AIDS rent ca FORWARD — ‘ a Twenty cents brings you the T ne miniature Tangee Beauty Set— = ake each of them with a all six items and the “Art of Tangee”! . . . But take the 2 , —— Make-Up.” Address Dept. 64, The George W. Luft Co., 417 first step today —t : oday— tomorrow is Fifth Avenue, New York City. the ally of forgetfulness! (All prices 25¢ higher in Canada)

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ia oN AeA ARs Ses OD 144 In There is REAL DANGER in smuggling SMUGGLING is dangerous. One of the penalties is that the goods may be confiscated. Another is that the duty may be doubled and a fine also imposed. Under Section 593 of the Tariff Act of 1922, anyone who knowingly and wilfully smuggles merchandise into the United States “shall be deemed guilty of a mis- demeanor,” and, on conviction, may be fined up to $5000, imprisoned for two years, or both. Smuggling is dangerous. Acquaintances abroad know when jewels are bought, and others here know when they are brought back. Inevitably someone will tell, for the rewards are large. Persons who furnish original information which leads to the “recovery of any duties withheld, or of any fine, penalty or forfeiture incurred,” may be awarded 25 per cent of the net amount recovered by the Government, but not to exceed $50,000 in any case. An award as large as $38,000 has been paid. Information relating to smuggling, past or present, may be given to officers of the United States Customs on the steamer or pier, or sent by letter, cable or wire- less to the office of the American Jewelers Protective Association. The Government can seize jewelry years after it has been smuggled, so that a temporary suc- cess at the time of arrival is no security for the smuggler. The name of anyone giving information to this Association will not be divulged, even to the Govern- ment officials. Such information will be filed with the Government in the name of the Association, and the full amount of the reward received from the Government will be paid to the informant. American Jewelers Protective Association 17-19 West 45th Street New York City Cable Address “Protective NewYork” the and the interest of law, the legitimate jewelry business of this country r A RAD VOGU; DECREE ky (Continued from page 65) fulness to the centre front or to one side; curved lines encircling the hips of a rounded incrustation; hooded drap- eries in the back, gained either by a slight drapery or an encrusted yoke. Satin, and more particularly black satin, plain velve‘s and velours Droguet with beige and brown checks, crépe marocain, crépe de Chine, and crépe georgette are alternately used for the afternoon frocks, in tones of pale green, beige, mauve-beige, pinky-beige, and aquamarine, Black models are numer- ous. The evening dresses are feminine, charming, and simple, of mousseline, satin, crépe, and soft lamé, often with rather full skirts. Others of satin are draped, cut, and tied in the true Vion- net manner. A series of mousseline dresses in paler than pastel colours is trimmed beautifully and quietly with silk fringe to match. Vionnet’s favoured colours are beige, Chinese-mauve, parchment, grége, brown, blues—vivid blues, navy-blue, and aquamarine—, black, black-and- white, green, pastel shades, paler than pastel shades, and dull gold for lamés. THE HOUSE OF CHANEL Mademoiselle Chanel’s contribution to fashion is always important, ex- tremely smart, and highly individual. Her attitude towards clothes, her tech- nique, and her restraint make her col- lection very personal and complete. Mademoiselle Chanel is justly famous for all that she has done and deserves even greater fame for the things that she does not allow herself to do. Her dresses are peculiarly free from mis- takes, either in idea, taste, or execution. There are many dresses, both for afternoon and evening, that belong to the type of model that is simple in aspect and complex in construction. In general, the silhouette is straight, with a low waist-line and what movement or flare existing placed low in position. There are many variations due to edges that play against surfaces and to in- genious and excellent cuts. The smooth- ly designed, accented, moulded, and outlined hips are everywhere. Bands of pleatings, circular cuts, and incrusta- tions all have their movement low, so that there are many yokes, both on skirts and bodices. Bolero cuts, all around, at the sides, and in the front and back only, are found. All of Chanel’s sports clothes have the correct and classical simplicity that makes them irreproachable. She uses jerseys and knitted sweaters, tweeds and homespuns with great authority and the true casual touch. The sports and travel coats are straight, replete with cut, discreetly fur trimmed, em- inently practical and smart, and with short and three-quarters-length jackets or seven-eighths and full-length coats. Many of her sports ensembles have scarfs; in fact, the use of scarfs sepa- rate or cut in one piece with the bodice is a feature of her collection for sports, day, and evening. Some scarf ends tie in front, at the side, or back; others do not tie, but are thrown over the shoul- ders, and some simply hang loose. Many of her day dresses and sports dresses have tabs and ends cut in one piece with bands that outline the décol- letage. At times, they hang freely, and, at other times, they are encrusted on the material. There are a great many black dresses for daytime, of dull crépes, satin, crépe satin—using both the duil and shiny sides—, fulgurante, and velvet—plain, printed, and cut. These dresses are full of ingenious detail and are often belted. The belts are varied—some are ex- tremely. narrow and tailored, of satin grosgrain, and other materials, \f,. 4 demoiselle Chanel continues lhe . of the jewelled buckles, and al a new bracelets, pins, and bro _" There are also man i é any ensembles wis coats that contrast or coats that mata ——ensembles that are held to “ : through material, colour, cut “a 8 ration. Black velvet ensembles pil as unusually interesting. White = 7 and collars and white velvet am trim several dresses. Lamé for ellie ‘ is shown, as well as for evening coai; and dresses. : In the evening mode, there are many fh lace dresses : black lace, black lace com. bined with beige, metal embroidere lace, gold lace embroidered with tur. | quoise beads, silver lace, pink lace, an) & green lace. They are of the familix fe ( hanel silhouette, tight at the hin ; sometimes with tiered skirts, other tins with winged draperies on both bodiy | and skirt, with even and uneven hep. lines and frequently with the tailore grosgrain belt. Chanel presents different versions oj the evening dress with the longer-in- back silhouette of black chiffon, wit petal-like flying draperies of tafe and velvet. There are beaded dress) with an all-over distribution of smal beads; these models tit the body yen snugly, at times having softness at th: | hem through diminutive circular rif. | fles and almost always having fiyin: streamers of mousseline to match, With P most of these dresses are shown evenity | scarfs in various shapes—triangula square, rectangular, and one lace dres has a little diminutive cape that ties An interesting note among her evening dresses is the new and very smart lin that is so often achieved by the crossing of streamer ends or scarfs or bands across the décolletage, both in frost and in back. One of these dresses i shown in the sketch on page 65, Ther are, as before, fringed evening dress Lamé evening dresses are also show as well as one of printed cut velve The evening coats are of velvet, lam: and satin. Turquoise evening parures of neck: lace and bracelets and red crackle stone ensembles, as well as white glas diamond necklaces, brooches, a bracelets are shown—all made of roun convex stones with the flat side in met rims placed side by side. For the daytime, Chanel’s colours are black, beige, brown, blue, greet purple, navy-blue, Chinese-vermilion For the evening, black, white, pink i. grey, pale green, dark blue, light blut § midnight-blue, topaz, gold, red, dark red, and beige are used. 3 aS ee LOUISEBOULANGER’S COLLECTION With great sensitiveness, Louisebot a langer has moulded diversity of line material, and colour into dresses are truly sophisticated and distr © guished. Here is a silhouette that 8/7 the feeling of a slender body — long, gathered panels of transpirt — materials or swathed and dra . against stiff, exquisite masses of ‘ feta and satin. Always, there is oi point of the silhouette that 1s sent no matter from what angle it 8 cit or how elaborate is the draping 4” m cascading that is superimposed ~. And never, even with the most ae esque of her dresses, is there a “= “ of the “picture” quality. Ali dresses are new, chic, of to-day of to-morrow. She divides . sharply in half, in the exact vai and then unites them into a hae i whole by carrying the — (Continued on page 14

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VOGU; | ES red, of Satin, FE aterials, Mb es her yf Nd also ys, brooches, f isembles wii ts that mate eld togethe: Cut, or deco. Dles stand oy fe Vhite cuff elvet flower; > for daytin, vening coats ere are many © ick lace com. embroidered ed with tu. & ink lace, an the famili: § at the hips § 3, other tims P both bodic uneven hem. the tailore t versions of e longer-ip. hiffon, wit $ of taffer ided dresses ion of smal e body ven 'tness at th: ‘ircular ruf- aving flyin: match. With OWN evening —triangular e lace dress ye that ties her evening y smart lin the crossing s or bands th in fron! > dresses i e 65, Ther ing dressts also shown cut velvel elvet, lam es of neck d crackle! white glas ches, all le of roun de in meti I’s colours ue, green -vermilion hite, pink § light blue. | red, datk j co TO ERE ECTION Louisebou- | ty of line F resses tha! | 1d distin: 7 that gives 7 ly beneath as ranspare.! d draped 8 es of tal re is one 4 ; slender- ; is viewet ng and ed upon! ost pictul Q2ES New magnificence new power, new features new lower prices! cae forward in the full sway of its strength, independence and stability, Chandler now brings to the forefront a brilliant array of 1928 models—new cars of spirited design—bodies swung smartly close to the ground —ultra-dis- tinctive, but not extreme—styled to be stylish not just for a year, but for years to come... New cars with oceans of satin-smooth power— with a getaway like a jack-rabbit —able to climb serenely up steep hills in high-gear—and able to maintain express-train speed clear across the con- tinent and back... New cars with steering made easier than ever— with springs that really absorb the jolts— with every mechanical requisite for long life—with a chassis that lubricates itself automatically and instantaneously when you push a plunger with your foot... New cars with a large variety of magnificent models—with a wide choice of color harmonies— with an extensive range of new lower prices. New Special Sixes at $945 to $1235; new Big Sixes at $1495 to $1795; new Royal Eights at $1995 to $2195; all prices f. o. b. Factory. We soberly believe these to be the most value- ful motor cars now before the American public— and we ask you to go as far as you like in making comparisons. CHANDLER-CLEVELAND MOTORS CORPORATION, CLEVELAND , suspicion : Iways, be R 5 dies! |

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le Debut Noir... in black flacon for the mood of sophistication Here is an odeur that breathes the sophistication of the boulevards of Paris. Subtly accenting the glamour and ps | mn of modern youth. Pro- vocative, yet by its very delicacy disarming. An exquisite little flacon, of a color that sug~ gests the smooth and silken veiling of the emotions . . . And there are four delightful le Debut odeurs for your four loveliest moods. You have but to step into one of your best shops and lift the stoppers from these enchanted Little Hacons to sense the meaning of each fragrance VERT in green fla con © Adventure BLEU in blue fla con & Romane le Debu t BLANC © in crystal flacon oo Gaiety NOIR ein black flacon oe Sophistication Created, sealed, and packaged in the Paris laboratoire 0} RICHARD HUDNUT and first offered toa delighted clientel at the Salon of RICHARD HUDNUT, 20 Rue de la Paix. PARFUM eat BARD HUDN DU FT - A - NEW YORK: PARIS NES sheet it th cottc sheet of be fabri fine ; life t whe!

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YOU MAY CALL IT BED-LINEN ARITHMETIC but it saves you money in the end as you can figure out ye promise of extra wear which is Woven into every Lady Pepperell sheet is a very real promise. You will find it there in actual cotton cloth—yes, more cotton cloth than is usually found in a sheet of the price of this most aristocratic of bed-linens, ane every single inch of Lady Pepperell ; ric has four additional threads of pure “9 spun cotton to add strength and long le to the fulfillment of that promise. These extra threads run across the sheet where the strain is greatest and ina 108-inch sheet length mean that you really have 432 more threads to stand the wear and tear. Unusually fine texture, plus a sturdy sel- vageand adainty marking tag toassist you in quickly identifying the different sheets for the different beds, all have contributed to make Lady Pepperell Sheets and Pillow Cases so desirable—a Jady’s bed-linen for a lady’s bed. Pepperell Manufacturing Company, Boston, Mass. Mills at Biddeford, Maine, Lowell, Mass., Lindale, Ga., and Opelika, Ala. Sales Offices in New York, Boston, St. Louis, Chicago, and San Francisco. THENSWESTANDFINES T-OF-THE-FAMOUS-PEPPERELL-SHEEIS

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= } 4 ben ( reyarl Grae — the chief | mien Every model designed by Wee Women Y Px a WEE WOMEN, Inc. 1372 Broadway, New York

Gentlemen: for short women,

4 ‘ ‘< xqutisile 1372 BROADWAY (Sadowsky Building ) Please send me your complimentary folder showing the new fashions in coats FOR THE WOMAN OF SHORT STATURE @ esdibet *S : j e style... . is not, aps, a: ve ult pursuit for the shorter-than- ave oman. @ To get fitted . ; , without ruining t costly alterations . . . that is her

oals JRED by LEADING STORES UT THE COUNTRY. bears the Wee Women Label.

NEW YORK

r AR iI 5S blouse into the skirt and of the skirt into the blouse by insinuations of colour and design. She uses frank ful- ness worked very finely into a gath- ered line that swings across the body from hip to hip. Two- and three-piece ensembles, for the most part, make up her daytime collection, both for sports and for the afternoon. These have a jacket, a three- quarters-length-or a full-length coat that hangs straight from the shoulders and flares slightly at the bottom. A three-piece, small-patterned brown tweed sports costume has a collarless, tight, round-necked white cashmere blouse that is worn inside the skirt beneath a brown leather belt. The blouse of a dark blue tweed suit is made of fine woollen material that is as thin as silk and has stripes of light blue and beige. Gold thread is used with great restraint in a series of dark woollen costumes for street wear. A black three-quarters-length coat made of a woollen material with a small checker-board weave has a high stand- ing collar of white baby lamb with a scarf that hangs down straight from in- side the collar. A ribbed wool coat that is discreetly shot with gold has very wide sleeves that are heavily shirred at the top and end with great wide, deep cuffs. This is the motif for a series of coats, for evening as well as for afternoon. There is a series of three-quarters-length capes, too, that have scalloped edges and a wide band of fur applied circularly in a large diamond pattern that goes around the cape at the line of the elbows. These capes are worn snugly around the hips and held together in the front with a bloused effect. The afternoon mode makes use of rich velve‘s, cut velvets, lamé, and satin. A prune coloured velvet costume has a skirt with the velvet worked up in a point off the centre, between small cartridge pleats, a blouse of lamé, collar and cuffs on the full-length coat of ca- nary coloured fox, and umbrella scallops at the bottom of the skirt and coat. Many satin dresses that use two and three colours are seemingly bound to- gether by means of multicolour em- broidery that looks as if it had been thrown, confetti-like, upon the blouse. A black-and-white three-piece ensemble of cut velvet has a_ beige georgette crépe blouse with a skirt that comes up high above a crushed girdle of the georgette crépe. A green satin dress, with a front bolero and four tiers with a straight panel in between, has a V neck inside a round neck-line. A black velvet suit with a short jacket has a pink bodice that is tucked in under the skirt and a crushed velvet belt that separates and crosses in front. A coat of velvet has a wide band of fur applied at the hips, pointing down in the back in a fish-tail and down in front to a surplice opening. The evening materials that Louise- boulanger uses most characteristically are taffeta and stiff satin. These are tied and draped and folded into amaz- ing pouffes at one side, at both sides, in back, or above stiff, floating stream- ers, where they seem to be held some- times by a single folded belt of the material that lies flatly on the hips. Sev- eral characteristic models are shown on pages 68 and 69. A dress of heavy cerise satin has a stiff pouffe in back that is held by two slender strips of satin hanging like suspenders from the shoulders. Another of a bril- liant sapphire-blue satin has a stiff pouffe on each side with straight streamers that touch the floor. A slender sheath of white satin has a full over- skirt of exquisite silver and gold lace; DE CR E gy (Continued from page 144)

As tulle is embroidered with silver bea ‘ and has full, gathered flounces ae come up high above the left hi ? model of mousseline lamé jn fa colours has two diagonal tiers om superimposed cariridge pleating én pery that is fastened to one side th back and hangs in soft. diaiianes lines. A crushed raspberry chiffon by bands of barbaric gold embroidery he confine its fulness wih a wilted 7% ward line. An interesting dresg ig ed of black net embroidered with jet ne tight hips and a bolero bodice = and a very full, but straight-hanging E skirt flounce from under which hang an uneven skirt of black chiffon ie floats softly away. is The colours that Louiseboulang; uses are black, white, beige. grége. dar} green, sapphire-blue, brown, 4 litt) orange, prune, raspberry, bright pink and cerise.

uS cated

CHERUIT There is a richness of effect, fla- vour of the exotic, in the tumultuoy simplicity of the house of Chéruit. \, skimping, no littleness here, only imag. ination and subtlety. Stiff velvet, moir taffeta, lacquered tulle, ciré lace, thes are the natural foils for Chéruit — || manipulate into that drapery that j so well known for its piquancy and beauty. Tweed, rough curly woollen | material, mille-ray velours de Smym: |

corduroy, and jersey are used, hoy: ever, with no less sympathy and effec in the sports mode. Here, three-picc ensembles prevail—jumpers or coals and skirts, beneath both three-quarters length and full-length top-coats thi (7) flare from the shoulders or are belted | and hang straight. The characteristic Chéruit drapery manifests itself in the afternoon mod: F | in both coat and dress. A black coat F | of silk twill is shor‘er in the front J | than in the back and has diagonal it- serts of fur at each side, cuff-pockels of fur, and a high fur collar. A brown & | and-white velvet ensemble has a brown § | and-white skunk fur coilar with a cr cular use of the fur on each side 0! a fitted waist. A beige-and-gold taillew has a wrapped skirt and a diagoni bolero; black and rose are combined in a dress of silk twill that makes us of interesting side drapery. Printed velvets in small designs of bright col ours—green, red, and white—are ol cular in cut and draped. There concentrated interest in a supple hac | that is confined by tucks that are folded | and flutter. The evening silhouette is tumultuous with massed drapery at the sides," front, or a pronounced version of the down-in-the-back, dripping hemline Brilliant red moire is made m0? draped skirt beneath a tight surphic bodice that is held by two strasse but- tons, and this model is shown : upper lefi on page 64. A black tulle dress floats away in a mass of uneven loops; dégradé gold ciré lace has or cular tiers beneath a deep deécolletagt lamé embroidered in red has a sul tured drapery at one side of a diagom front and back apron. Very thin - and gold tissues that are shot with pa pink and apricot flutter softly in 1 like the plumage of exotic birds. L The colours that Chéruit uses © By | black, orange, red, brown, beige, 8% S| and pastel shades. s |

CHEZ JEANNE LANVIN

Throughout a collection of great versity, genre, and _ interest, Maat Lanvin maintains the same high - thority and attention to detail 2" (Continued on page 148)

Bo cto

a

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OCU sober 15, 1927 silver beads é UNCeS left “. n gold and Hers, with Be ‘ating dr. Py side in th Liaphanoy, chiffon hy, Oidery thay visted, w. “SS 1$ mace fe h jet, with ce Mere np sien pre ad aks as toads, dice above ' it-hanging ; Lich hangs Liffon tha { | -boulang; 4 rege, dark fam , a littl a ight pink [ ct, a fle multuous eruit, N nly imag. et, moire, F Ce, thes heruit to y that is | | ncy and fe Woollen Smymi, 2 2d, how. nd effect } ree-piece Or coats fy quarters. vats that fe re belted Fe drapery on mode ack coat he front | onal in- § | -pockets | -brown- brown: ha cir side of taille | liagonal mbined kes us Printed sht col- ire cit- here is fe le hack s » folded ia iltuous, des, in 1 of the i m-line. inio 2 urplic % se but: at the k tulle unevel 1s cil etage; Fi sculp- agonl | | ‘nee James h pak i || trains | og ait | ; gold, 5 at di dam? 1 ale and PARFUM ‘CHYPRE, COT Y AN INTERNATIONAL FAVOURITE ig? Ss wayreg the senses — shirrin them — holiling them — Parfum Chypre 2S 2 lovely brant lame 272 fragrance, exotic and, strange, ardent and lenipestuous. Keep the exgursile cylindrical bottle on your dressing table — one of the small sizes in your purse — a perfume Jorever to enchant ESSENCE EAU DE TOILETTE BRILLANTINE HAIR LOTION FACE POWDER DUSTING POWDER COMPACTE SACHET TALC ae ae INC. 714 GFifth Hoenue, NewYork. CANADA —55 MSGill College Ave., Montreal

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148 Sik wee LAHAD A NEW PATTERN IN SILVER PLATE Coffee Set _ Coffee Pot $31.00 Sugar Bow! $19.50 Cream Pitcher, Gold Lined $19.50 Waiter, 14 in. $35.00 NE mutt ride high on the crest of anadventurous wave to achieve such a pattern as the new Sir Galahad. One must go questing —seeking the new in decorative de- sign as the Sir Galahad of old sought the Sacred Emblem through strange lands and over troubled seas. It is a decidedly different pattern— this newest Reed & Barton achieve- ment. Different in its beautiful, decorative design. Different in the degree of grace expressed in its per- fet proportions. In short, the Sir Galahad Pattern is traditional of the craftsmanship that Reed & Barton have expressed in tableware for more than a century. Ask your jeweler to show you this new pattern today. * Set of Six REED & BARTON neta og lly TAUNTON, MASS. NEW YORK, N. Y. Dessert Forks 6.75 ; : Dinner Forks 7.50 All cutlery with stainless steel blades, new French shape. *In Flannel Roll and Gift Box JNDPlawa ESTABLISHED OVER 100 YEARS SOLID SILVERWARE ~ PLATED SILVERWARE i OO'D:P' SONS CRO ONS TY D, i" y hweeeewed % WITT, | LOOT R » Vocum PARIS DECRER (Continued from page 146) workmanship. Especially important is her series of coats, jacket length, three- quarters-length, and long, in every ma- terial from rough tweed for sports and travel to velvet, silk twill, and metal cloth for evening wear. These hang straight from fitted shoulders, they flare below fitted waists, they wrap volumi- nously with a deep side godet of fur, they drape around the shoulders loosely with circular fu'ness in the back worked with sun-ray stitching. Sleeves are a theme with many variations played upon it. They are half-circles fastened with cuffs of fur; they are slashed and inserted with bands of contrasting ma- terial in the manner of the troubadour; they are gauntleted with breitschwantz ; they are finished with old-fashioned muffs of moire caracal; they are linked, bound, and with buttons. Collars receive attention next. The top-coat of a black-and-white herring- bone tweed sports ensemble has a high beaver collar and opens to show a tail- leur that buttons all the way up the front to a high collar of tweed, from which an almond-green choker scarf falls after tying once around the neck. A black cloth coat has two collars, a cloth one outside a fur one that hangs down in a deep V-shaped bib when the coat is open. Black herring-bone silk is combined with black herring-bone wool in stripes in a coat that hangs straight frem fitted shoulders. It but- tons up the front with ten buttons to a high standing collar of Persian lamb. Collars become scarfs and wrap around the neck, they become yokes and con- tinue their way down to the hem-line in front. Black, black-and-white, and black and grey are the colours used throughout this series, both for sports and formal occasions, with the addition of metal and rich fur colours for the evening. THE SPORTS MODE In the sports mode, the three-piece ensemble comes first in importance. These have skirts that are slightly gored or obtain their fulness in front by groups of small puckered rolls instead of pleats, jumpers or short coats, and a top-coat. Many skirts with light tops are in the picture, and there are suspen- der effects of white shirts under black jumpers. Tweed, jersey, fancy woollens, and velours de laine are the materials most used. Afternoon dresses are usually in black or black-and-white, with a few insistent notes of blue and green. Their skirts are circular, tiered, ruffled, or have a full rounded apron that ties in the back. The neck-line is high or surplice. Cross bands that button at neck, waist, or hip adorn many dresses, and pronounced spiral flounces wind their way from hip to shoulder. Deep pleats give the effect of tunics; wide stitched belts buckle snugly at the hips. The materials are satin, moire, twill, crépe de Chine, and crépe romain—with combinations of both colour and material. Gold lamé girdles a frock of beige wool. Velvet and crépe de Chine are combined to- gether, Two shades of blue divide the yoke and sleeves of a dress from the skirt and blouse. The evening silhouette is of the great- est variety, from the sophistication of a black chiffon dress with a circular skirt that hangs with floating irregularity below a sleeveless troubadour jacket studded with silver disks, to the old- world charm of Madame Lanvin’s al- ways lovely robes de style. Contrasting colour combinations are effective. A black velvet dress, with a long Empire silhouette lines its dripping side tails with turquoise-blue; another black vel- vet dress has one shoulder and half i's surplice blouse of white satin r ' lines are uneven and both circular * jagged. Some skirts are attached to cular yokes and hang long in f while others are short in front with down-in-the-back droop, Moire rib in pastel shades is wound round : round a slender silhouette in a seri % youthful dresses. The picture rie d especially lovely and vary from a in frock made of taffeta scales caught 7 cobweb of chiffon to the crisp in tance of black taffeta with diagonal “a in back with long borders of bat tulle. Black and black-and-white és tinctly dominate the mode as seen b Madame Lanvin, with white. blue di and the pastel shades next in ha tance. WORTH’S COLLECTION There is great diversity and richnes of both line and material found in thi famous house. The apparent raising (i the waist-line through the mouldip that takes place at the natural wais. line, even when the belt remains 0: the hip-bone, plus the lengthening ¢ the skirt, gives a different proportiq to the silhouette that is characteris of the present mode. There is a fui rounded, generous feeling to bot blouses and skirts chez Worth, and this is distinctly interesting. Tweed, yelous de laine, corduroy, jersey, velvet, satin and chiffon are all given the same feel. ingof movement by circular cuts, godets panels, gores, and rounded edges. Three-piece ensembles prevail for sports wear, with jumpers and skirts of novelty jerseys, kasha, or corduroy used alone or combined with tweed in small-patterned designs. The collas used with these tweeds are of a rich fu of the medium-haired variety, such 3 beaver. Noticeable in the sports colle- tion is the use of metal thread i the midst of tweed and woollen materi to give them accent. There are man versions of the circular sports caj made of tweed in contrasting colour red and beige, blue and beige, brow and beige. A plain brown tweed skit and a short coat of beige plaid tweti that has a belt and a large patch pockt are worn underneath a greatcoat thi hangs straight from the shoulders, 0 brown tweed lined with the checkei tweed. Three-quarters-length and full-lengt! coats are equally important in the col lection. They are cut straight from th shoulder, or they are slightly fitted and flared. They are banded, collared, | and cuffed with luxurious fur. Many short “hussar” jackets banded wit | fur are seen on tailleurs and in three piece ensembles. ; Printed velvet, woollens rich in gole thread, satin, and chiffon are most portant in the afterncon mode, ust with elaboration of detail and drape! that is very characteristic. The evening mode is tiered, pleatt? draped, and_flounced. Full chiffon skirts show a transparent hem-line be- neath foundations of velvet on sit? Many dresses have sleeveless boler jackets that hang loose over 4 blouse and rounded décolletage. Hips at de a fined and tight, movement is free mt gracious. Brilliant elaboration—“” mante, strass, and embroidery—adom the simplest dress. ae Worth is showing, among artifice jewellery, some pieces that were “ signed by Cartier. Bern Black velvet stands out preeminet” with chiffon, tulle, satin, lace, ” crépe romain in black, and the , pastel colours and flesh tints next ® (Continued on page 150)

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OGU; Ey nd half « tin, Hen. Cular api ed to ci. in fron; nt with ; ire ribo, ound anh a Series ¢j frocks ay na many; 1ught in ; SP impor. onal tiers of black vhite dis. F S seen by blue, gol in impor. ‘i d richnes nd in this raising oj mouldin: ral waisi- Mains 0 hening o! roportiay racteristi: is a ful to both , and this d, velours vet, satin same feel. ts, godets edges, evail for ind skirts corduroy h tweeds he collars a rich fur , Such as rts collec hread in 1 materidl are mall rts Cal x colours e, brow ‘eed skit ‘id tweel ch pocke coat thet ilders, 0! checked ull-length 1 the col- from the ly fitted | collared, | ir, Many | led with | in three: § | 1 in gold most ill: | de, used | | drapery pleated. | chiffon \-line be- be on satil. 5 s bolero . blouse! ; are dt: Fe free an? Be on—dior —adors artifict! were Ot minent! ace, al’ the p* next 2 0) October 15, 1927 — Trunv glorifies this de- lightful sport dress. The colors used in the model are tan and green. TRUHU and the changing mode > eS «77 SHATEVER demands the mode may ¢ NG 3} make as season follows season, they renner ~* are ever graciously met in Truhu Washable Silks. This season, simple lines con- tinue to delight the eye, to lend graciousness and distinction and the flattering charm of youth. Plain-colored silks, alone or in ensemble, are the chosen fabrics for morning and afternoon, for the avenue and the country club. Particularly favored are the lovely Truhu silks, so subtle in coloring, so supple in weave. They have become, indeed, as popular for fall as for spring; and a demand that would not be gainsaid has caused the manufacturers to create Truhu silks in all of the new autumn tints and shades, includ- ing a full range of tans, blues, and greens. Truhu silks drape with exquisite grace, keep- ing their fresh appearance always. And of course they are washable. Made only from purest silk, dyed with only the purest dyes, they contain no weighting, no substitute material. Truhu silks are as practical as they are smart. IF IT’S TRUHU IT’S WASHABLE The Name is on the Selvage SILKS All Colors Washable JERSEY SILK MILLS, INC, 200 Madison Ave., New York

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4 Home at Last—Slip into Your _Maid-Rite Leather Slippers! How utterly weary you are... how your poor feet ache and throb....and how blissfully comfortable they will be as soon as you’ve slipped them into your Maid-Rite Leather Slippers! For perfect relaxation you must rest from your toes up! Many a facial wrinkle can be traced to tired feet. That is why Maid-Rite slippers are made with soft padded soles, cushion or wood heels, and the finest leathers obtain- able. That is why Maid-Rites should be in the boudoir of every woman who knows the im- portance of proper rest for tired, tingling nerves. For dad and the children too, in all sorts of fascinating styles and colors. At all good shoe dealers, department stores, lingerie shops and haberdashers. Look for the Maid-Rite Blue Label. Send for free copy of ‘*The Slipper Hour,” showing in color the newest and most popular styles. Address Maid-Rite Corporation, Dept. B, 35 York Street, Brooklyn, N. Y. No. 913 {illustrated} Rita—a D’Orsay Pump in Blue Kid Leather, with padded sole and Cuban beel. MAID-RITE LEATHER SLIPPERS for Men, Women and Children r A RI S$ importance. Daytime colours in the Worth collection are grey, blue, black, beige, and a few reds and magentas. Evening colours are black, white, off- white, pale green, rose, and the flesh tints. THE MODE AT JENNY’S Jenny’s collection starts with a long series of tailleur suits, most of them with a_ slightly fitted jacket with rounded corners, closed by one or two buttons. Several of these models are of dark green English velvet and are worn with a blouse of white or pale green crépe. Some others of more simple ef- fect are in greyish mixed woollens; their straight vest has a belt of kid or material that partly disappears under slits cut in the material. Jenny pro- poses again the tailleur accompanied by a circular unattached cape that can be two-thirds, three-quarters, or full- length. A fur band sometimes makes the collar and comes down along the two sides, or else it is the jacket that has a fur shawl collar from which falls a collarless cape. A few cape and tailleur ensembles are entirely of black broadtail. The tailleur is sometimes completed by a long coat. Longer-than-hip-length jumpers that fit tightly at the waist are new in line. The jersey and metallized woollens are very much used for this type of model. The coats are most often straight and wrapped, with cut and rounded corners. On several, however, one finds again the same movement, somewhat tightly fitted at the waist, already seen on the jumpers. The lower part is then widened from the hips, like the bottom of a redingote. Occasionally, a sports or travelling coat will show a slight ful- ness in the back—fulness cut circular and caught under a yoke. Most of these coats, no matter what their form, have a fur collar. The redingote cut is again used for some daytime dresses, especially when they form an ensemble with a coat of the same shape. The fulness given by regular godets is very popular. Skirts are as short as previously with the exception of a few with natural waist- lines, particularly on the tightly fitting models. As usual, the collection is full of in- teresting details, which are all repeated on different models. There are, among many others, the yoke of a contrasting colour existing at the same time in the front and the back of a dress (this yoke is most always of flesh colour on black dresses) ; long and tight sleeves in two contrasting colours; high necks, often knotted or made of a scarf band; the moving panel in the shape of a strip going from the yoke to one side in back. The evening gowns, often tight at the waist, with a full skirt, flounced or cut circular, have a slight robe de style effect. Embroideries of beads, pearls, strass, or paillettes give radiance to the evening mode. The oval décolletage, very low in front and back, is the most frequently used. Jenny’s favourite materials are the mixed woollens, English velvet (the latter in very large quantity), jersey, velours de laine, satins, and lamés in shades of green (dark and light), black lighted by a detail of colour, bluish- green, and grisaille. Pastel blue, pink in different tones, and white are the evening colours. DUILLET’S COLLECTION The line chosen by Deeuillet is es- sentially becoming. Blousing above the hips, it closely moulds them and opens in a group of gcdets in the centre of the front, giving both fulness and mo ment to the skirt. The elaborate 0 is felt even in the very simple frocks VOGuR D ECR EF, (Continued from page 148) for instance, in the morning dresg: ne two-piece models of Listy woollen with darker j ee models with inten yee “ Ices cy diagonally. ' The numerous ensembles are con posed of a coat, long or three-quarters length, straight and Wrapped, with fe collar and cuffs (but very seldom wi fur at the bottom), and of a dress a different material, but in the a shade. a A velours de laine or shiny broadelg coat most often accompanies the m . afiernoon dresses of satin or crépe siti Incrustations, stitched pleats, dra erles,or a group of encrusted godets a the trimmings most often used for {) daytime dresses. : The evening silhouette is also Con posed of a bloused bodice and drape moulding the hips, with insers godets giving fulness at either 4: cen‘re or on one side. Most of evening dresses are embroidered yj beads, beaded fringes, or paillettes sometimes partially, sometimes , over. The materials for the daytime x broadcloth, jersey, kashatulla, mis: woo:lens, velvets, moderii velvet, yely: Tircis, woven velvet, cut velvet o voile, English velvet, crépe satin, ani crépe georgette. For evening, lace, ci mousseline, satin, beaded crépe geo. gette, and velvet are most used. The different beiges, sable-beig mauve-beige, and pinky-beige, exist in a large scale, as well as different shad of red, including cardinal-red, gamet purplish-red, Venetian-red, “strav- berry ice”-red, and_ brownish-ted Some o‘her shades, such as mediun- blue, Sienna-brown, and a quantity 0 black are equally shown. The light and pastel shades are favoured for the evt- ning: salmon, rose-mauve, ashes (i roses, mauve, and white. CHEZ NICOLE GROULT An irregular, circular, full mov: ment that starts at the natural wais- line below a_ slender, almost fitte! bodice characterizes the collection 0 Nicole Groult. Circular skirts have ties of circular ruffles to make them sti more circular! Wherever the siraigit hem-line appears, massed fulness his been introduced in the front to gi movement to the skirt. In the few m- stances where the tightly swathed hip is used, it is obtained by an elongate’ yoke extending in a point below the waist-line, or by wide bands that come from the side seams, wrap tight) around the hips, and tie. Coats have generous rolled collars 0! fur and hang loose from the shoulder, with sometimes an additional flare + the hem-line that works its round way up to a side opening. he quarters-length coat appears Mm the afternoon ensemble in velvet ag crépe de Chine dress and also, in the evening, in velvet or brocaded lam above a dress of the same material. 4 Lingerie touches are much im ¢* dence in the afternoon mode and §! hand in hand with Nicole Groult use of the surplice opening of the ice. This is prominent even 2” sports mode, where she shows ur with the surplice neck-line band two or more contrasting colours.” version of the three-piece sports + a distinctly longer jumper with 4 tinctly higher belt. A cashmere 7 has buttons near together and ~ ing half-way up, instead of the ! (Continued on page 152) Ve if Octo N° r upon. were | powd left a were the ge And 1 hair. silver of her harsh, hair d Natur the hz in pai lustre, Today is a lo transl or fibs puts h do he Mya. b- 4 CO

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and mor, borate ¢y Dle frocks IF dregs: Of lig Ttions dices cu are Cop. “quarters. » With fur dom With l dress ry the Sam: roadcloi the map Epe satiy ts, Crap. Odets ap d for th: Iso con. | drape inser‘e} ther th: t of th ed wit aillettes nes 4 ime ar mixed t, velve: lvet on in, and ce, Cire € geor- e-beig: eXist in shades garnet ‘straw sh-red dium: tity of ht and FOGUP October [o, i9é7f E y le eve: res di move: waist: fitted no! > tiers aight 5 has give y in- hip ated ome ly F sof ie der, at Be ded ret the the Be nt & go “tor the woman who refuses upon. No wonder! Those A few points to remember 66 e 99 . weaned 20 DAIL her gra Y NQIr sacle were the days when face powder resembled calcimine; when rouge left a hectic flush; and even perfumes were so primitive as to be shunned by the gentlewoman. And those were the days of “painted” hair. Much as a woman disliked the first silver hairs which marked the passing of her youth—she dared not brave the harsh, witch-like effect which the oldtime hair dyes produced. Naturally any dye or restorer raked thru the hair with a comb—merely succeeded in painting the surface, dulling the hair’s lustre, and clearly proclaiming it “dyed”. Today, We Know: That each human hair is a long stem—the outer covering is quite translucent—and within are tiny threads or fibres. Into these inner threads, Nature puts her coloring. When Nature fails to do her job, the hair turns gray. Science Mfd. by INECTO, Inc., 33 W. 46th St., N. Y. C., and Notox Ltd., 10 McCaul St., Toronto, Can. (Sales Representatives, Harold F. Ritchie & Co., Inc., N. Y.) terms it a disease and names it Canities— the loss of coloring in the hair. With Knowledge Came Notox: After years of scientific research, Notox now du- plicates Nature’s work. It puts coloring inside the hair where it shines thru the translucent outer sheath—a perfect A of Nature’s art. Slipping Duan the outer covering, Notox is absorbed by the inner fibres. Safe—and undetectable —Notox colors hair the natural way. Where Are the Gray Haired Women Today? Glance around any smart gath- ering—observe those women whose age you are pretty certain is beyond fifty. The chances are that you will not notice any evidence of gray hair. The reason isn’t hard to find. At the first sign of gray hair, the modern woman calls on Notox to prolong her youth! Coloring. It does not af- fect the strength or softness of the hair. It permits permanent waving with utter safety, security and satisfaction. It is equally unaffected by marcelling, sham- ooing, steam baths, salt or fresh water athing, strong sunlight or perspiration. Notox requires but a single application. It is permanent and needs no further at- tention until new hair grows out. Notox is tested on living models before leaving the laboratories. It is produced by the largest makers of hair coloring in the world, and both its basic ingredient and method of manufacture are protected by patent. Notox is applied and sold in beauty shops or sold in drug and department stores. On request, the makers of Notox will recom- mend a shop near you where you can have Notox expertly applied. ene A . SS AFE — UNDETECTABLE! Copyrighted 1927, by Inecto, Inc.

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fa } i : : A new collection of hand knittea suits, particularly suit- able for sports and daytime informal occasions... . Original designs... . Exclusive, specially dyed colors. The New York Shop is at 16 East 53rd Street. [23 Gru Philadelphia j All genuine Franklin hand knitted Sweaters sweater suits bear this label. NEW YORK + PHILADELPHIA - PALM BEACH «- BAR HARBOR aA SS VOGU; (Continued from page 150) or six buttons of the past season. Sleeves are long and tight, or they are full below the elbow and gathered into a narrow band at the wrist. Velvet is extremely important throughout the collection, both as a daytime fabric and for the evening. Printed velvet in small, all-over de- signs of leaves, confetti, and polka- dots; black velvet used alone and in combination with black-and-white em- broidered crépe de Chine and satin for the afternoon; and, for the evening, transparent velvet that swirls in soft circles with the lightness of chiffon and, in the same dress, hangs in loose folded draperies with sculptured im- portance—thus Nicole Groult suc- cumbs to velvet. Fringe is used authoritatively in two versions of the tiered evening dress, which prove con- clusively that the high waist-line for evening wear is best above a trans- parent hem-line. Black, black and white in combina- tion, black with a touch of coral, greys and blues in combination, navy-blue and pink, and navy-blue and tilleul- green predominate. YTEB’S COLLECTION For daytime, Yteb makes, almost exclusively, ensembles with the long coat of the same colour and often of the same material as the dress. A shawl collar of shaved fur extending down to the bottom of the coat is used fre- quently. A few coats without any fur collar are shown with a separate fox fur. Preference is given to neutral tints for the daytime, such as beige, brown, and_ black. Evening dresses swathe the hips either by means of a draped effect or by the addition of a draped girdle. On the hem-line is uneven. A particularly chic dress of pink taffeta has all its fulness caught at one side in the back in a huge puff. Tints for evening are brighter; bright reds and soft pinks are the favourites. THE HOUSE OF MARTIAL ET ARMAND Madame Vallet has based the ma- jority of her models on a new sil- houette, diversely treated wiih regard to the details, whether the models are plain or more formal, but with the same idea expressed in the general line. The silhouette is very narrow in the lower part, but of normal size at the shoulders and hip-line. To obtain this result, she uses, on informal morning and afternoon dresses, the long tunic, slightly circular at the bot- tom with an exceptionally narrow skirt about ten or twelve inches in length. On a few coats and evening gowns, the side seams follow an oblique direc- tion so as to lessen the fulness of the bottom of the skirt. This theme has been used in certain new details: the incrustations and applications of one material on another, such as velvet on broadcloth; the irregular, triangular neck-line, the point of which goes to the side and not to the centre; and cuts and trimming, especially ruffles, which are placed diagonally. Skirts are as short as those of the previous season, and the waist-line re- mains the same height. An entire series of ensembles com- posed of a dress and a coat, full-length or three-quarters, are shown for sports and afternoon. The dresses are tunic- like, the skirt and jumper being dif- ferent in colour. The coats are straight and wrapped around, with rectangular fur collars and, sometimes, with an application of fur at the bottom. Metallized woollens are coats and dresses. oe mixed woollens with a Small che design, kashador, kashavella valet a laine, supple silk velvet, crépe lamés, pckins, crépe georgette * mousseline (most often beaded) ’ equally used in this collection, . A large quantity of evening gowns entirely beaded are shown for ie ’ ning. Generally, the embroidery . one colour. as or Velvet Drogue, I PRN RR Black and beige are the two colours | appearing most frequently, Navy-blye havane-brown ; ' ~ 1e-brown and brown, greens, an( sofi blues are also seen. White and pastel pink are especially smart for the evening. j PAUL POIRET’S COLLECTION A collection of Poiret models is 9 varied in outline, of such multitudinoys colour and materia! combinations that | it is impossible to characterize the gi. | houette. Each dress stands alone jy its individuality, its separateness of thought, and Poiret goes toevery corner of the globe for his inspiration, The dress that we have come to designate as “typically Poiret” has the long, tightly fitted bodice and full, circular, gath- ered skirt, and the majority of the models are variations of this silhouette Many afternoon dresses are sleeve- less, others have long, tight sleeves or sleeves that are puffed at the wrist High necks have tightly buttoned col- lars, and an occasional lace fichu collar is seen. The even hem-line is almost never used, and _ skirts usually ar longer in back than in front. A favour- ite skirt, with flat back and front, has large cartridge pleats that hang long on each side. Many ensemble coats are quite short, falling just below the hips, and they are nearly always dolman-like, with funnel-shaped sleeves that grow smal at the wrist. The new lace-like jerseys, striped, figured, and woven with metal, are used for sports ensembles; and, for afternoon and daytime wear, satll, crépe de Chine, velvet, thin woollen crepella, ribbed corduroy-like woolle, and velours de laine are well repre- sented. Many dresses and ensembles combine two or more materials. Evening dresses are of velvet, lac, taffeta, moire lamé¢, heavy satin, bro- cade, embroidered net, and chiffon lav- ishly embroidered with crystal, Jet, and coloured bead fringes. Red, almond, peacock, and botlle green, grége, bois de rose, beige, pie and vivid blue, seal-brown, light an¢ dark grey, and purple are Poiret's fi- vourites, out of a very extensive otk lection of colours for daytime. For evening, Oriental colourings are sett ® lamés and brocades, and often mat) colours are combined in one frock. : green, and purple are, perhaps, the f voured colours, but black, white, and the pastel shades appear m M™ more youthful types of dresses. THE COLLECTION OF BEER The unusually large number of “sl ning models in the Beer yore shows the wish to maintain 4 » asy that has always been Beer's. oe a sports and afternoon modes we been neglected. An entire series i. piece dresses, usually accompany a tweed or mixed woollen coat, th been specially studied for the ke sities of outdoor life and for the simp town mode. Jersey, striped a” dered in darker bands, is largely US" and interesting details, such as 4 (Continued on page 1

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OGU; E i Used for | Drogue, all che | relours ¢, FPE satin, ette, and ded) are n, 18 gown | "the eve. CTY Is in 0 Colours avY-blue NS, and hite and t for the IN Is is s udinous ns that the sil. lone in ness of Y corner mM. The Nate as tightly , gath- of the 10uette sleeve- EVES OF Wrist, | ed col- | | collar almost ly are avour- it, has | z long | short, 1 they with small riped, ; are , for satin, rollen ollen, epre- nbles lace, bro- lave and ttle- pale and fa- col For | rin § any ed, fae | ey, the > ? oeeber 15, 1927 rue Luxury d True Luxury is found in this Lanchére bath ensemble by those a — taste gives them utmost appreciation of exquisite luxuries. There is a gq in the perfect harmony of their refreshing fragrance, each is incompa ; How quickly Lanchéres Blue Rose Bath Crystals dissolve, a ea fragrance. How bountiful the silken, cleansing ene of pacer a the caressi Bath Soap, fragrant to the last thin wafer. An imine Aas Dusting Powder is restful and refreshing as fairy breath. é — Each, One Dollar Lanchére Blue Rose Bath Soap —-S. ingle Cake, Half Dollar Lanchere Blue esac Crystals—Eac Lanchire Blue Rose After Bath Dusting Powder, Each Four Dollars Liston BLUE ROSE FINEST OF PERFUMES * POWDERS * SOAPS * COMPACTS * ROUGES * CREAMS amt BATH LUXURIES Begin to use lu R h h niin or whi h does not carry nch Y 1 t oods, just tell d y If b any cnance you appe into a st e c La ere Blue ‘Rose Goi e G B e ose today. y n the merchant th at ry ( Gg & ANY Wrot ESALE (Chicago =~New York} are the sole distributers «the merchant will understand. ec

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154 DLLMAN / WAYS Y VETTE OXFORD, BLUE, BLACK, OR BROWN SUEDE - BLENDING CALF TRIM - NEW FRENCH-CUBAN HEEL, $26 DéE LMAN 558 Maison Avenue A av SHOE SALON) Between Sot and 56 tl, Sts raARiS VOGUE DECREE g¢ (Continued from page 152) de Chine handkerchief encrusted at the neck and knotted, give a personal touch to this type of model. Three little bows of material, placed at the collar, at the centre, and at the bottom of the jumper in front, are used in several instances. The sports coat, straight or wrapped, is generally cut and seamed in bands or in geometrical sections. Fur is used in collars, but seldom on sleeves. Afternoon coats and frocks are some- times shown as ensembles and often shown separately. The dresses are draped, if they are formal models, straight and encrusted when they are for informal wear. Lavish fur trimming and a slight lower flare are two details that give a more formal aspect to coats. Big shawl collars are made of fox and lynx in their natural colours, mostly grey and beige—extending to the hem-line on both sides. Bands of shaved fur, beaver, and astrakhan are used as_ borders. Sometimes, fur trims the bottom of the coat, but never in a regular way. Richness is obtained for the evening by the repeated use of brilliant ma- terials, such as satins, velvets, and lamés, and by the use of strass em- broideries. Bows, cascades of material, panels forming trains, and drapery are also means of giving an imposing sil- houette to the evening gown. A new version of the puff and of the semi- rigid bow appears in several frocks of ciré taffeta, moire, and satin. An abundance of draperies and moving panels naturally gives an_ irregular hem-line, as does the resurrection of the long, sweeping train. Two of these panel-trains are often placed on the same skirt, The evening coats, presented in a large number, are made of lamés or velours Tircis, very supple, their ful- ness accentuated and maintained in tight gatherings under the fur collar. Zibeline, mink, or fox accompany these magnificent ma‘erials, and strass em- broideries add further radiance. Satin and velvet are used both for day and night; mixed woollens, velours de laine, velours Argenta, pleated wool- lens, ciré taffeta, ciré satin, moire, muslin, and lace are equally used. The favoured colours are the beiges and greys, black, certain soft greens, and a little blue. Pinks and _ pale greens are often seen for the evening. BECHOFL’S COLLECTION This collecticn is distinguished by fur-trimmed coats of almost severe simplicity. Two silhouettes are shown: one, for sports and morning coats, is belted and side pleated at the bottom; the other, for the more formal after- noon coat, is wrapped and has a flared silhouette. The separate fur scarf is a popular trimming. On a grége woollen coat, the cravat-like scarf is of beaver, narrow around the neck and falling nearly to the bottom of the coat, widen- ing towards the ends. Ermine, summer ermine, beaver, astrakhan, chévre (goat), broadtail, and natural kolinsky are the furs used. Afternoon frocks have the tightly fitted hip-line and scarf-like neck- lines. Wide pa‘ent leather belts are worn with many of them. The skirts have full, circular tunics, and unpressed side pleats are used on sports skirts. For coats, the materials used are broadcloth, velvet, ribbed corduroy-like woollens, tweeds, and a woollen crepella that has a silk back and is often used with the reverse sides put together in horizontal or triangular patterns. A large, figured, plaid woollen makes coats of geometric and practical cut. Black, dark blue, dark brown, beige, and grege are the favourite q colours in the Bechoff aytime Collection THE HOUSE OF REDFERN Redfern is showing a series of black broadcloth coats of doah ee and character, trimmed with bein ‘ fawn fox collars, cuffs, and band Often, a whole skin is used, with he i and tail, tight around the neck nice down in an enormous shaw] collar trimming the bottom of the coat i a diagonal line. These coats are wra = and slightly flared at the hem, ice them have a waist-line indicated by / line parallel to the hem-line. = One of Redfern’s smartest evening dresses, typical of the mode to-day an charmingly executed, is of black Chan- tilly lace with two flounced ties rounded in the back. Another is af black mousseline with a supple drapery on the bodice done somewhat jn the Grecian manner. The skirt is of over. lapping panels, one being much longe; on the side. " CHEZ BERNARD ET CIE In the Bernard collection, the youth. ful silhouette predominates, with full circular skirts and flared two-thirds. length coats. The coats of ensembles and coat-dresses both have the diagonal side closing with the bottom flare some- times exaggerated by the insertion of godets. On afternoon dresses, many skirts are apron-like in front and back, with a contrasting material inserted in the side openings. For evening, skirts arealways full, being two-tiered andruf- fled. Long points, scallops, or draperies on each side give the uneven hem-line, Satin, velvet, cut velvet on georgette crépe, velvet woven in tiny checks, and thin woollen crepella are the m- terials used for afternoon frocks, and coats are of thick velours de laine, broadcloth, velvet, and kashador, Grey astrakhan, beaver, natural lynx, and fox are used for trimming. The evening gowns are, for the most part, of georgette crépe heavily beaded with jet or crystal fringes. A fev dinner-frocks are of shiny black satin and chiffon lamé, and_ brocade and lamé evening wraps are often trimmed and lined with beaver. Jade-green and almond shades di vide honours with black for aftemoon. Other colours used are sapphire-blue, raspberry-red, dark beige, and light cocoa-brown. The majority of the eve- ning gowns are in white or black, but blues, yellows, and greens are stl. IRTE’S COLLECTION Variations of line, cut, and material characterize the collection of Prince Youssoupoff. The sports silhouette, for the most part, maintains straight lines with a skirt that wraps; but, mn extremely smart versions, the skirt - a circular godet off the centre, wilh large, soft pleats on each side, Jumpers are made of the shiniest of angor jersey with thick, long hairs, of broidered kashatulla, of thin pore material combined with crépe a —usually in pastel colours and Ws belts. Oys‘er coloured angora Jerse 4 stitched with almond-green above wrap skirt of wool suede. oe Rough, gravel-weave surfaces, * mixed colours, thread, and wie never too coarse, appear a. for sports, afternoon wear, pes after’ ning. For sports, of tweed ; nod noon, of crépe de Chine that os tweed weave and of printed anv velvet; for evening, of cut velve (Continued on page 156) Oct 4

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E 4 daytim, Ollection .N of smar mal typ, ige or 1 bands ‘ith head » COMing collar, or Oat in a Wrapped Some of ted by a evening day and k Chan- d tiers er is of drapery t in the of over. f h longer e youth. ‘ith full )-thirds- isembles diagonal f re some. rtion of , Many 1d back, erted in 3, skirts andruf- raperies em-line, eorgette checks, the mu- ks, and > laine, r. Grey x, and he most beaded A few k satin de and rimmed les di- ernoon -e-blue, 1 light he eve- ck, but seen. & aterial § Prince § te, for § t lines § in two irt has with mpers yngord f em- oollen Chine ithout sey is ove 3 S, in e, bul nently eve: after has yovell pt 0 Gor Sport, wo pore a ress Gloves of Meyers Make are made in their factories here and abroad. They live up to the fa- mous slogan of three generations, oe Old ois ; (Chev ear Well’ IN THIe® MODERN GLOVE: 6By ITS fine silhouette, by the rippling grace of youth, is known the hand of Twenty. And this is the hand whose suppleness has been interpreted in leather in Gloves of Meyers Make. Designed in Paris, there lies behind their modern spirit three generations of experience in making fine gloves. Experience that instinctively selects only the finest, most pli- able skins... that has brought about Meyers’ exclusive tanning processes ...that knows how to plan every curve and angle, every fine seam and detail to lead to gracefulness. That is why, even if you are twice twenty or more, the charm, the grace of youth may be yours in a glove of Meyers Make; just as you find it in the masterpieces of certain great couturiers who have made Ja jeunesse their theme. Looking young, to paraphrase Vogue’s favorite epigram, is not a matter of years, but a matter of brains! The clever head knows that the clever hand wears Gloves of Meyers Make. Because, for the hand of Twenty, and for every hand, they are the gloves with the gift of youth! The slip-on glove in washable kid is correct for sports and tailored wear The buckle is a smart feature in this washable capeskin glove of MEYERS MAK Lous \ —— coe C/on, Ine, One Seuke (fs Mies ik Slender strips of laced leather trim this one-clasp kidskin model

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156 Mie ny A Recent Achievement In Smart Jewelry Brilliantly jeweled straps Syoy-be Mmm elem belies om (cele ttetss new grace to the formal or informal costume ... and clasp the slipper or pump with welcome snugness where it is wont to sag or slip. ere 2 At S PATENTED ay Snail B./%, BALLOU & CO, INC., AUG.23,1927 Shoes PROVIDENCE wt ra KIS VOGuz Continued from page 154) a mousseline foundation and of lamé that has a small, all-over pattern— these make up many Irfé’s models. These materials appear mostly, and with the greatest chic, in dresses that have a broken direction to their lines, obtained by means of bias edges, slash- ing, and pointed tiers that correspond to and emphasize the broken surface of the material. For afternoon, there is sharp con- trast to this dull, rough-surfaced ma- terial in the use of supershiny black satin. Heavy black taffeta is used in a crisp taffeta robe de style for the evening, and this model is aristo- cratic in its clear-cut lines and certain- ly an example of contemporary art. CHEZ MARY NOWITZKY Pyjamas with coats of contrasting material and colour are a feature of A S$ S E E N this house. The coats are short in f and form a long train in the ny Sometimes, when they are of oat they are edged with wide metal ie Lace, velvet (plain and dégradé) oe and quilted silk make these pyja i The trousers are gathered in and cae. at the bottom or turned back in a a The tops usually have a sleeveless ef. fect, the coats being of one materia and the sleeves of the contrasting sq terial of which the trousers are a Tweeds, ribbed woollens, jersey te plaid woollens are used for tailored one-piece and two-piece sports heats Brown, beige, and grey are the most popular colours in the collection Ct sports things, although almond-green and slate-blue are well represented Most of the sports dresses have bor- pleated or side-pleated skirts and long. waisted bodices on which are used novelty bel's of leather or metal, BY Hes (Continued from page 87) luncheon at the Casino on the terrace of the bathing rocks or wherever the luncheon rendezvous might be. This is the charm of the Riviera in the sum- mer—no one dresses in conventional costumes until the evening. At every hotel and restaurant and in every private house, one is expected to lunch in almost any attire, from a bathing- suit to pyjamas. Sweaters are the rule, and no man wears a coat. One bathes in the morning, lunches in _ négligée attire, and has a siesta until four, fol- lowed by another swim at tea-time. Even in Venice, one can not lunch in a pyjama or bathing-suit in the main restaurant of the Excelsior at the Lido, but the people who have made the Riviera fashionable in summer have set the standard of the informal man- ner of dressing as the only correct one. On the Continent, it is the rule for men to bathe in only their trunks, which is such an intelligent idea that it is likely to be adopted eventually by people the world over. The fashion for sun-baths is health- ful beyond dispute, and one of the most beautiful and ideally arranged spots in the whole of the South of France is the place on the rocks be- low Mrs. Lloyd Osborne’s villa at Antibes. These rocks have been ar- ranged so that there are secluded nooks walled off for sun-bathing, nooks that catch both the morning and afternoon sun. This delightful villa with its broad terrace overlooks a tiny, rocky harbour, beyond which are these rocks in the sea, walled off in the most in- genious manner. This is the rendez- vous at tea-time for all of those peo- ple who have the good fortune to know the charming chatelaine, and, every afternoon during the past sum- mer, there were the gayest tea-parties there to be found in all of Cannes. Lady Howard de Walden often came over for her swim, with Mrs. Stuart- Wortley (Madame Edvina), who, with Miss Meraud Guinness, has_ the charming antique shop in Cannes. Sir Hugo de Bathe and Sir Charles Mendl generally arrived in their boats with a party of people after picnicing on the Island, and the Felton Elkinses would arrive in their boat, dive over the side, and swim ashore for a cup of tea. Somerset Maugham occasionally came over from his new villa at Cap Ferrat, and Lady Cynthia and Mr. “Tom” Mosely from their villa in Cannes, Every one who has cnjoyed these delightful experiences is already be- moaning the day when this summer paradise will become spoiled by popu- larity. They shake their heads and murmur that it is “doomed” to be- come the great summer playground of the world. And so it is. But, unlike Venice, where there is a small beach and nothing to do all day but remain there until tea-time, on the Riviera there is, not only beautiful bathing at many different points, from sandy beaches as well as from rocks, but there is all the marvellous country back in the hills. There is no end to the won- derful excursions to be made. One, in particular, is to the little old hill town of Saint Paul, to dine at an enchant- ing little restaurant called the Auberge de la Colombe d’Or. It is a well-known place and famous for its food, but no one has ever seen it at its best who has not been there in summer, The terrace at sunset, from which there is a magnificent view, is one of the mos inviting spots one can imagine. It 1s floored with red clay, stamped down and watered till it is hard as stone, and a curious touch that adds to its | Bou charm is the trunks of the small trees | washed with red clay so that they ap- pear like some exotic giant bushes growing out of clay. There, one dines well on the excellent provincial fareand sits in the long twilight till the lamps are brought with the coffee, and then motors back to Cannes through the clear warm evening air in an open Ca. There were already several gambling casinos open this summer, and, next year, there will be the added — of the much-talked-of season that - be directed by Miss Elsa Maxwell, who will take over the running 0 os Carlo for the summer season of l 2 But no amount of popularity can Po sibly spoil the deli e al te standards of living that . been created by the group of Pe who first started the fashion for - Riviera in summer and who oa a ing back year after year in Pre Or i to any place they know. For it 1s a in which one can be either gaY org * of the world or out of it, and, a i hours by motor, one can ha. eet plete change of scene and atm Pi The die is cast—the Riviera 1 ° ope. coming summer resort of se” f Monte | ghtful informality | O¢

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t in fron, the back of velvet etal lace. 1é), lamé Pyjamas. nd puffed in a cuff veless ef. Materia] ting ma- Te made, rsey, and tailored $ dresses, the Most ction of nd-green resented, ave box- nd long. , ire used tal, | M annes, d these ady be- summer Y popu- ds and to be- ound of , unlike ll beach remain Riviera thing at sandy ks, but try back he won- One, in ill town nchant- Auberge -known but no st who r, The there is 1e mos! > It is | down _ stone, - to its II trees ey ap- bushes > dines yreand lamps | d then | zh the | pn car. mbling | | next # ‘action © at will , who Monte 1928. 1 pos nality have people wr the com rence a life quiet, a few com phere. ; the STEUER Pry eat ite ” M Mi October 15, 19: WITH THESE DAGGETT & RAMSDELL PRODUCTS you can now give yourself a scientific facial ee NE no longer wishes for scientific facial treatments, but ROSY has them. For now, with the aid of these twin products, Le t every woman can be her own best beauty specialist. With ely? " them you can, in the privacy of your home, learn how to SaaS} give yourself a complete daily facial treatment—not one cluttered with ceremony and surrounded with mystery, but a simple, scientific and sane regime that will bring results. Facial treatments depend basically upon just two requisites —a cleansing cream and an astringent tonic. Perfect Cold Cream has for decades been world-famous for the care and preservation of the skin. Because it is so carefully, so rightly made, it is the ideal cleansing cream. Vivatone is the new skin tonic by the same well-known makers. It has been carefully ptepared to meet the after-cold-cream needs of the skin. This is the correct method to use—just follow the instructions carefully exch night and morning for one week, and note how different, how really lovely, your skin feels—and is: Massage the skin of the face and neck thoroughly —not forgetting the shoulders and upper arm— with a generous amount of Perfect Cold Cream. Use the tips of the fingers, and a light, upward and outward rotary motion, which will increase the circulation, and work the cold cream into the skin, Never pull or rub the skin. Let the fine oils Penetrate the pores and dislodge the dust Particles and other impurities that accumulate — Remove with a soft tissue or cloth. Follow re cleansing with an application of Vivatone one the skin. You will love the effect of this new skin lotion—its action is both stimulating and astringent due to the balsamic substances contained in it. Saturate a pad of absorbent cotton with Vivatone, and with the same upward, rotary motion, wipe over the skin of the face and neck. Vivatone removes any surplus cold cream that may linger in the pores, and closes them, leaving the skin both stimu- lated and refreshed. Use Vivatone in-between-times, too—after a strenuous round of golf, a shopping tour—whenever the skin needs to be refreshed. Its cool tingle and its delightful fragrance are as stimulating as a brisk mountain breeze. It is delightful, too, after using a depilatory or a razor (only don’t tell your husband this—he will use it all up). This home regime is not an expensive one, either. Perfect Cold Cream comes in tubes and jars, priced 10c to $1.50, at all the better drug and department stores. Vivatone costs seventy-five cents for a generous six-ounce bottle. In Canada $1.00. If your skin is the kind that requires a powder base, follow the morning facial with a light ap- plication of Perfect Vanishing Cream. It disap- pears almost instantly without leaving a sticky film, and imparts a clear translucency. Perfect Vanishing Cream is excellent, too, for chapped hands, lips and face. It comes in tubes and jars, priced ten to sixty cents. All products by Daggett & Ramsdell, 214 West 14th Street, New York. Also makers of Perfect Shaving Cream and Ha-Kol (Headache Cologne).

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IRELAND~ Photo by McManus iy % F a , i GLOVES O other leather combines the sturdi- ness and trim appearance of Capeskin. These tailored gloves of real washable Capeskin, made with “rip-proof” stitching and button and button-hole, come in all shades of tan and grey and are especially adaptable for street Of sportswear. Made by the distributors of Ireland-Vallier Washable Suedes IRELAND BROTHERS Madison Avenue at 34th St., New York (Entrance 40 East 34th Street) Factories: JOHNSTOWN, NEW YORK : GRENOBLE, FRANCE (Right) Marie Walew- ska, the golden lady, beloved of Napoleon, was one of the few constant lights in the turbulent sea of the Emperor’s amours THE GOLDEN WALEWSKaj By DOROTHY SHERRILL T was New-year’s day. Snow was falling thick and white as the Em- peror’s coach rolied up to the gate of the little town of Bronie. Immediately, throngs of peasants flocked to the heads of the steaming horses and crowded against the mud-spattered coach wheels. “Welcome! Welcome!” A sight of him through the window, a smile from the great man’s face—these would be things to remember, to tell the children. For was not Napoleon the “liberator ;” had he nct come to lift the yoke of Russia from the almost-broken back of Poland? Duroc climbed out of the carriage and tried to push through the surging mob. Fresh horses—the Emperor must be driving on to reach Warsaw by night! And then the sturdy soldier paused. Before him stood a young girl, a mere child, her lovely face radiant with excitement and tingling with col- our in the frosty air. She was slender and tiny, but exquisitely formed, and, even though she was clad simply in black—a heavy veil nearly concealing the bright gold of her hair—, she stood out against that background of peasants as a Sevres figurine would stand against common pottery. Her deep blue eyes from under their dark lashes looked up into those of the Grand Mar- shal, and her clear, sweet voice, speak- ing charming French, had a request to make. “Is it permi‘ted, Monsieur, for me to say a word to the Emperor?” It was permitted. And the intensely patriotic girl, carried away by her enthusiasm, almost threw herself on her knees before the now-attentive man in the carriage. She poured forth to him a hundred welcomes and gratitude al- most beyond her power of words for what he was doing to aid her beloved Poland. That was all. She had not meant to make a speech, but she wanted to thank him. She withdrew, and the eroup of peasants, the snow, and the encoming twilight swallowed her up. THE BEGINNING OF ROMANCE Napoleon was more than touched by her flower-like beauty. Who was she? He made inquiries. He succeeded in learning that the girl was Marie Wa- lewska, daughter of the poor, but noble, Lachinsky family. At the age of six- teen, just two years before this brief meeting with the Emperor, her family, sorely needing money, had accepted for her the brilliant marriage proposal of Comte Anastasius Colonna Walew- ski, a seventy-year-old Polish pa‘riot. His exalted position and exceeding wealth made up for the fact—at least, in the eyes of the girl's mother—that the Comte had a grandchild nine years older than little Marie. Poor girl, a dull life she must lead in the solitary castle of Valevice and in the Comte’s huge town house at War- saw! Napoleon sighed for her—and at once made p.ans for her amusement. He asked Prince Poniatowski, jn whose palace he was a guest, to give a ball and to invite the Comte and Comtess Napo:ecn s slightest wish in Poland at this juncture, was a command. The hopes of all, no mat‘er what their sta. tion, hung on the whim cf this cop- quering soldier. How much would he dp for Poland? was the question breathed on every side. If he pleased, he coul make the country, give it back its former glory. It was the duty of the Polish people to sce that the Emperor was pleased! AN EMPEROR MEETS REBUFF Therefore, Prince Poniatewski ar- ranged for the gayest ball possible. It Was even rumoured about afterward (when much became known) that the Prince had had to go in person and per- suade the Comtesse Marie to accept his invitation. For word travels quickly, and the girl already had an inkling of what was to come. And that eve- ning, when, from the midst of the most resplendent ladies of the capital Napoleon chose the dainty, unassuming girl for his partner in the contradance, fear stirred in her heart. Her nature was not one that delighted to bask in the sunshine of publicity, and the favour of the Emperor had marked her. All eyes were on her graceful fig- ure; her name was on every tongue. From that night en, Marie Walewska was watched eagerly, sympathetically, hopefully by the whole city of Warsaw. Would she succeed in winning the great Emperor’s heart than that—would she allow herself to for Poland? More | be won sufficiently to hold him? Appre- | hension was in the air. The uneasiness of her associates Was | justified, for Marie had her honour that was immune to flattery from evel | the highes‘. The morning after the ball, she read this note written in \4 poleon’s own_ Jerky, masierful hand: “I saw no one but you; I admired no one but you; I want no one but you. Let me have a word very quickly, to quiet your impa‘ient on” She was furious. It was an insult. What kind of a woman had he thought her? Had he mistaken the cae of her patriotic welcome of him i something more personal ? She ‘ ashamed. She refused to answe = note in any way. . Heong was surprised and piqued How strange it felt to be refused i a woman, after so many years of bar rierless success in every campalgr of the heart as well as of the — And this child, so golden, $0 sol, § fresh when compared to his pm id world-weary Josephine, this we (Continued on page Maen, £7

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GUE K A and at nt. He whose a ball ntesse, land, 1. The ir sta- 3 COn- he do pathed could ck its of the iperor i are le. It rward it the 1 per- pt his ickly, kling eve- the pital ming ance, ature bask 1 the itked | fig- Ie. vska ally, saw. October 15, reat | fore if to pre- § was | jour | ven the Na- nd: § ired | but kly, ult. ght sm for vas the 1927 Crepe Satins Are Trumps in Bridge Frocks O matter how well a frock looks as a whole, it must be attractive above the table, if it’s to be a good bridge frock. So each of these slim little dresses chooses the new diagonal line and plays it high—with Skinner’s Crepe Satin or Skinner’s Crepe. _ These two fabrics have the right colors, the right finish, the right quality, the right way of draping and tucking and tying in bows. Also the right texture to be sat on and still hang smoothly. So the frock at the left registers its diagonal with a pointed neck, tucks and a flare bow—in Skinner’s Crepe. The dress with the long overblouse, diagonal neckline and trim little skirt is of Skinner’s Crepe Satin, dull and bright sides. The same fabric, in the satin side only, makes the third frock with the double diagonal circular ruffles—a miracle of ease in con- struction, for it’s straight underneath. Number four— for the dashing type that loves the modernist note— carries its diagonal in two shades of crepe satin— Skinner’s, of course. Always look for the name in the selvage. If the store hasn’t Skinner's they can quickly obtain it for you. Skinners Crepes Wrt1ttIAM SKINNER & Sons, Established 1848 New York Chicago Boston Philadelphia Mills: Holyoke, Mass. “LOOK FOR THE NAME rN THE SELVAG E*"

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160 ..... the laughing flow’rs In double pride were gay’’—BURNS THERE are some things which, for senti- mental reasons, you value above all others ...a silver heirloom, a jeweled keepsake, a priceless piece of pottery. Worthy indeed to be counted among cherished possessions are the creations of the Roseville potteries. For more than a generation they have been the delight of those who love beautiful things. Bright, gay flowers in jars and bowls of graceful line and soft colors impart to any room an indescribably exquisite charm. Nothing can be more appropriate at any time than gifts of Roseville. See the fasci- nating new designs at your leading stores. Write for a copy of our handsome new booklet ’Pottery.”’ It’s free for the asking THE ROSEVILLE POTTERY CO., Zanesville, Ohio ROSEVILLE POTTERY VOG0; THE GOLDEN WALEWsx, (Continued from page 158) little girl who looked so yielding, re- fused to be moved! It was _ unbe- lievable. He sent a second note—a romantic, pleading one, which met the fate of the first. And then Napoleon, the strate- gist even more than the lover, penned these lines: “ ...@Oh come, come! All your wishes shall be fulfilled! Your country will be even dearer to me, if you have compassion on my heart. N.” What an unfair advantage for the great soldier to take! Her Poland— how could the girl refuse to do what would save her Poland? On the day of receiving the note, she sat in family conclave and listened reluctantly to the cajoling words of her advisers. Prince Poniatowski called again. He begged her to smile on Napoleon, to flatter him, to show him a little kindness. Surely, it was a trifling thing for her to do, out of the great bounty of her youth and graciousness. Talleyrand, the wily, paid her a visit to beg her to honour his dinner- table that night with the Emperor, to assure her that Napoleon, the all- powerful, kept his word—he could lift her Poland from the Russian mire. Then came Duroc, the sympathetic, un- derstanding Grand Marshal. To him, Marie gave her trembling consent. She would see Napoleon that evening— alone—after the dinner of the fox-like Talleyrand. And so, after the swiftly served, gay dinner in the candle-lit dining-salon of one of the smaller palaces, after the Emperor himself had withdrawn and the guests had scattered to cards and music, the littlke Comtesse Walewska permitted Duroc to wrap her ermine cloak about her and escort her to the waiting carriage. It was a three-hour interview that she spent with Napoleon, and the greater part of it she spent in tears. Yet, from her own account afterward, no man could have been kinder to her, more tactful, more gentle. He talked with her quietly about her hopes and dreams for Poland. He held her hand tenderly in his, and only once did he try to kiss her. She was reassured, even happy, and, when Duroc came for her, she could face him smiling. A GIFT FROM NAPOLEON The next day, Napoleon committed a tactful blunder. He sent her this note and a parcel: “Marie, sweet Marie, my first thought is of you! I shall see you at dinner . . . Please wear the nosegay that I send; it will be a secret messen- ger of our feelings amid the crowd... . If I lay my hand on my heart, you will know that it is wholly yours; for an- swer, press your flowers to your bosom, Love me, my charming Marie; do not take your hand away from the flowers.” Flowers? He had sent no flowers. And then the girl opened the parcel that accompanied the note. Before her lay a velvet jewel box, embroidered with the famous golden bee. And in- side, gleaming against the white satin, was a Cluster of daisies, fashioned cun- ningly of diamonds and emeralds. Marie’s eyes sparkled for a moment in appreciation of the loveliness of the ornament. Then, she closed the box with a snap, summoned her maid, and bade her return it to the Grand Mar- shal who was waiting for an answer in the carriage below. Little Walewska’s high-handed treat- ment of him was amusing to Napoleon for a few days. It even increased his interest in her. But he was not a patient man. She would not come to him? Very well, he would go to her. And go he did, dressed as a common soldier and cloaked against publi oe After that, they yrs ee gether. The young Comtesse had bp “ to the inevitable. As yet, she Miia f grown to love him, but she Tealized . her attempts at remaining aloof val futile. To the conqueror always oa the spoils; and was not Napoleon " quering the Russian, the ene oy | Poland ? 7" Therefore, when the chances of war took the Emperor to F inckengtr, Marie, having said farewell to Se ability in a speech of Confession f her aged husband, followed him Ther in the gloomy caverns of that mediaen fortress known as Castle Finckensten Napoleon and his little love passed th: rest of the winter. Sitting before th roaring fireplace, watching Marie; golden head bent over her embroider frame, or strolling up and down th) great stone floors—her tiny slippes keeping step with his military boots the Emperor knew real happiness, a THE HEART OF MARIE And there, in the melancholy twilig of that ancient stronghold, the me. ancholy in Napoleon’s own natu caught at Marie’s heart. From feariny him, she began to pity him; and then- a miracle of true joy for the tired s- dier—she came to love him as he hi/ never been loved. Those months in Finckenstein and later, in the beautiful castle of Schon. brunn were their most idyllic times to- gether. For, once established in Pari in her modest little house in the rue d Houssaye, court jealousies, Josephine’ spying eyes, the very ears that the walk are known to have robbed the Emperor and his Walewska of their privacy Marie’s little house was a joy t her. It was set in the midst of an e- chanting English garden. From tl window of her boudoir—a dainty roo hung with white cashmere and furnis!: ed with divans, a harpsichord, a fragit writing-desk, and an easel—, she couli look down on this flower-filled par And here it was that she waited dail for her lover. Sometimes, when affairs of sti chained Napoleon to his offices, s would visit him in those rooms of hi in the Tuileries above the offices—t rooms that Josephine had never bet permitted to enter. And, one night so the story goes, Josephine sto outside the door, a candle gutterit in her hand, listening in vain to th hushed words within. » : What was Napoleon promising th’ ~ Polish girl who asked for s0 littl Was the rumour true that the Walev-j ska was to have a child? The En§ peror’s own physician visited her dail A What if the child were to be a sy A cold terror seized Josephine’s hear’ The clouds of divorce were gatherin: td iC a about her head; she knew it; she aA not fend them off. J An amazing tale is told of a plot that had it been successful, would iar given Napoleon an heir, Josephine +7 son, and would have made the a perial divorce unnecessary. One er H Emperor’s own advisers —_, it, and both Josephine and er ; agreed to it. But Walewska re - q Let it be said that Josephine Wr § pecting a child? And, when 4 at own baby came, let it be = ve secretly to the Tuileries, poof acclaimed as Child of France yo the Emperor and the Empress’ oo Josephine humbled herse a on Walewska in vain. Napoleat iy from the distant Schonbrunn of 6 pleasure at her refusal. ~ (Continued on page Rae ras PANS TH

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OGU? yK af Cognition Ways to # ad bowe; > had yy lized thy loof Wer YS elon, leon COn- nemy (i °S Of wy kens'eiy ) Tespeci. eSsion t n, Ther ; nediaeyy| kensteip assed the efore th, Mar ies broider; lown th: slipper ; boots— Diness, twiligh: the mel. Nature 1 fearing d then- ired sol- he had ein and Schon. imes t0- in Paris e rue du ephine’s he walk emperor privacy joy t r an él: om th ity roon furnish: 1 fragil re couli d park od dail f state es, she ; of his es—th er bett night + Stood attering to th: ng the little Walew-§ e En§ r dail.) a SOn:§ heart. therins © p coulc i ot that z | hav s hine 1 1 in of the BF wulated ie polo fi ofused as Oh Be ffarie’ ues! to te yrne ! Neve! 0 le 10 ist e =a THE ENGINE rnd VN 4 ete Je ph fF The impressive evening ceremony of Dress Parade at West Point 00,000 owners praise its silence, smoothness and power HROUGHOUT the country are thousands of drivers who are enjoy- ing carefree motoring. They are the drivers of Willys- Knights. The enormous gain in registrations is striking proof of Willys- Knight popularity and merit. Sweeping demand, increasing production, result in new lower prices on the Willys- Knight Great Six — making this splendid automobile more than ever the leader in fine car values, The Knight Engine—No carbon troubles, no valve-grinding. Absolute depend- ability. The only type of engine that improves with use. 7-Bearing Crankshaft—Of course! Skinner Rectifier—Prevents any dilution and contamination of your oil. 4-Wheel Brakes — Positive, mechanical- type, quick-acting, Belflex Shackles—For chassis silence. 8 Timken Bearings in Front Axle — An exclusive Willys-Knight feature. Easiest steering car you have ever handled. Narrow Body Pillars at Windshield—If all other cars were so equipped, accidents would be reduced to a minimum. Adjustable Front Seat on Sedan and Foursome models for utmost comfort. Light Control on Steering Wheel—An ingenious thought for your convenience. Lights flicked dim or bright without taking your hand from wheel. Shock Absorbers — Air cleaner — Ther- mostatic temperature control — Finest quality upholstery and interior fittings. 7 7 7 70” Willys-Knight Six, $1295 to $1495. Willys-Knight Great Six, reduced prices, $1850 to $2950. Prices f. 0. b. factory and specifications subject to change without notice. Willys-Overland, Inc., Toledo, Ohio. Willys- Overland Sales Co., Ltd., Toronto, Canada. And now, optional color combinations—distinctive ensembles of rare taste and beauty—are available on all body types of the Willys-Knight Great Six WILLYS-KNIGHT IMPROVES WITH USE—IN SMOOTHNESS, QUIETNESS AND ECONOMY

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woman was to smooth the pillow—a most irritating thing by the way—of any one who could bear it, an attack of illness might, perhaps, be fatal in such inexperienced hands, but it was not the terror it has since become. In these times, it is not death the patient chiefly dreads, but recovery from his bodily ills to find himself a bankrupt. Cer- tainly, no one can blame a woman who enters on such a disagreeable profes- sion as trained nursing if she tries to make money by it, and we suppose that seven or eight dollars a day and extras are not excessive for expert care. But the result is that acute finan- cial anxiety is added to physical suffer- ing when the patient looks at the two white-robed nurses and dares not think of the bill for them and the doctor. The rich, of course, do not mind, and the poor are treated gratis, but, for those unfortunates in what English people call the “‘middle classes,” BOOKS RECEIVED MICKEY AND THE MONKEYS By Victorine Kirk Viking Press LARS PORSENA By Robert Graves E. P. Dutton and Company THE UNPAID PIPER By Woodward Boyd Charles Scribner’s Sons TURNPIKES AND DIRT ROADS By Leighton Parks Charles Scribner’s Sons ADVENTURES IN. ARABIA By William B. Seabrook Harcourt, Brace and Company THE GOLDEN WALEWSKiA (Continued from page 160) adamant. She had given in against her sense of honour once; she would not do it again. Thus it was that Napoleon, searching ever for the son—the legitimate son— who was to follow in his footsteps and rule from his throne, finally divorced his Empress and took in her place Marie Louise of the Hapsburg house of Austria. Why not Walewska whom he loved? Many reasons. First, her first child could in no way be legitimatized; sec- ond, Napoleon, once only a “little cor- poral,” now Emperor, had tasted the wine of dynasty; he wanted to estab- lish a royal line with royal blood; and third, little Marie did not press for- ward as a possible wife for him. She seemed con‘ent to love him and to be loved by him. Therefore, amid great pomp, the flat- faced, thick-lipped, watery-eyed Aus- trian princess came to the Tuileries. And, several weeks later, came the news from Valevice that Napoleon’s son had been borne to Walewska. Napoleon’s thoughts were tumult. He sent for Marie at once. He loaded her with presents. The baby he made a count of the Empire and appointed a chancellor as his guardian. But, as Emil Ludwig says in his fascinating book, NAPOLEON, “Napoleon has become a respectable married man.” There was no longer a welcome for the Comtesse in those private rooms in the Tuileries. And she went—of all places!—, at Josephine’s urgent invitation, to Mal- maison. There, the one-time Empress played with the little boy who, but for the mother’s will, might have been hailed as her own. TaayYy (Continued from page 138)

VOGp; Oct REap it has come to the poi afford to be bea Faget ~ a illness between times, "This a * however, touches lightly on the “ tion of expense and gives much ble advice to both nurse and = with many useful hints on matter . seem small, but are, nevertheless “e portant in sickness. The chapter h 5 ed: “When the Patient Is q Man’ an one on the question, “Should a Train 4 Nurse Marry Her Patient?” raise teresting problems, for, in Spite of i fact that the ministering angel type ; out of fashion, there is no doubt the ; sick man often ends by falling in “ with the woman who took ad him, and, in that case, why should ¢; not marry him if her fancy lies th; way? There is a great deal that is - ful in this book put in an agreeal manner; and it should have 4 larg sale, for some of us are nurses, and of us are liable to be patients, THE LOVE-CHILD By Edith Olivier Viking Press THE DARK CHAMBER By Leonard Cline Viking Press GUINEA-FOWL AND OTHER POULTRY By Leonard Bacon Harper and Brothers THE MAGIC PAWNSHOP By Rachel Field £, P. Dutton and Company That is almost the end of Walewski story. There was one flying trip mi by her at night to Fontainebleau, : tragic trip made to say farewell ' Napoleon before he left, broken, te trayed, for Elba. But she was not a mitted. When the Emperor learned tli Marie had waited a whole night tos him and had to leave, her visit uns cessful, his heart was torn. He wrot to her: “Marie! . . . The feelings which a} imate you touch me profoundly. The are worthy of your lovely soul and th goodness of your heart. . . - Think al: fectionately of me! Never doubt me nw.” ; The final scene is the story of W lewska and Napoleon takes place on th Island of Elba. It is twilight on tha bit of land that lies within sight of - mountains of Italy. An English ves 5 secretly chartered, brings an _, lady and a bright-eyed little boy ©" exiled Emperor. - For two days and nights they lve ‘ in the shadow of remembered happ" fe ness. Walewska begged to stay ~~ s but Napoleon, cursed still < ” vision of dynasty, forbade it. 4 a i Louise, his faithless consort, ™ i yet come to him, bringing his m the King of Rome. And that i turn to France—already planned 2 ** active mind—, nothing must ™ seas | Pies he kissed his lovely Lag a farewell—and the little son © if a later to prove himself so worthy 0 d_ strainee ”

blood in his veins—and SY mae E eyes after the tiny vessel as it rf 0 out across the rough waters Am Mediterranean.

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October 15, I9éT Vocus ‘. FOWNES Cloves ANNIVERSAEY At No one ¢ or have an 1 5 O t h his Volun. on the que, MUCh seng. and patie Matters th ertheless, jp, Napter hea. a Man” an Ida Train : t?” raise in, b spite of th angel type j doubt thas alling in loy ‘00k care , ly should sh Ncy lies thy ] that is Use. aN agreeab lave a lare Irses, and ratients, ULTRY ny KA ewsks ip mad bleau, : well t en, be not at: red tht t tos unsut: - Wrol ich at} The ; nd th nk af: t me n th tha f ti ss TODAY’S NEW GLOVE... i Fifty years from now—when today’s fashions are old-fashioned—the sports mode will live as the typical costume of this new, modern age. And the sports mode—like the fashions for bustles and taffeta—takes its own glove... expressed by Fownes in good, wash- able leathers, fitted loosely for chic and hand- stitched for smartness. For 150 years, the Fownes Company has made America’s fine gloves. It has a long, delightful tradition Wi ““Tt’s a Fowmes... that’s all you need to know about a glove. : of quality. The firm has been in the same family, under the same name, since 1777. It has gloved royalty and notables of history. Styles have changed with their times. There has been a F ownes Glove for every period of fashion—from the court costumes of Dolly Madison to the modern girl's sports sweaters. And always it has been known for its marvelous leather, perfect finish and charming taste—the beautiful quality that is, after all, the foundation of smart fashion. Fownes Brothers. & Co., Inc., New York.

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At the John Street Theatre, popularly known as the “City Theatre,” the “high kick of society” appeared in . brilliant attire EARLY OPERA By FREDERICK H. MARTENS VEN before Washington was carry- ing the surveyor’s tripod about the Virginia frontier, opera—though the ballad operas and miscellaneous musi- cal entertainments included under the title may not be operas in the modern sense—was an established social factor in Colonial life. In 1750, while the aromatic smoke of the council-fires of the Long House of the Six Nations rose on the forest night at Onondaga, while painted Indian chiefs and sachems passed the pipe and the False- Face maidens danced their wystic dances to the howl of distant cata- mounts, New Yorkers took their way “up-town,” to the first Nassau Street Theatre, to enjoy Gay’s “The Beggar’s Opera.” And, even then, the opera- goers represented two distinct classes— those who went to be seen and those who went to hear. “CARRIAGE FOLK” OF EARLY OPERA The former drove to the opera in lumbering chariots with armorial bear- ings—no one had yet dreamed of calling the coat of arms, that venerable relic of the past, “a toy of sickly vanity’— in phaetons, or in the “Italian chaises” then fashionable, each one holding a lady and gentleman. The carriage folk wore evening costumes of the latest Saint James’s cut, and, for the men, white dressed leather gloves and silver- hilted swords were de rigueur. It was an age of contrasts, however, and, late at night, when the performance was over, the carriages driving homeward with their splendidly attired occupants had to cut across the primitive sewer- age system of the city, which consisted of the long line of negro slaves, each with a tub on his head, wending their way to the river. Neither high nor low society showed much decorum vis-a-vis the stage. The more democratic portion of the audi- ence, especially, stoutly defended in the home of social privilege an old plebeian tradition, brought to the Colony from London. On occasion, the gallery gods, as at present-day college-town first nights, made no bones about showing their disapproval of the musical fare offered. THE RUFFIAN RULE In May, 1762, a year before the New York Colony refused to provide bar- racks for the British soldiers sent to enforce the detested English trade laws and Parliament suspended the provin- cial legislature in consequence, David Douglas, manager of the second Nassau Street Theatre, posted this notice: 4 TeeeYT SE TS iw

IN NEW York} “Pistole Reward—To whoever can discover the person who was go very rude as to throw eggs from the Gallery upon the Stage last Monday, by which the Cloaths of some Ladies and Gentlemen wer soiled and the performance in some measure interrupted!”

For let no one imagine that in thos days “Cloaths” did not play quitéa ff important a part in opera as theydo J now. In earlier Colonial days, how- ever, the socially elect were supposed to be protected by sumptuary laws that prevented the common herd from mas- querading as moulds of fashion. Yet even then there were infractions. Only the New Yorker who has heard two Virginians discuss the “James River families” on the picturesque Old Do minion steamship that runs betwee Richmond and Norfolk can appreciate the indignation throbbing in the lines of John Pary, Secretary of the Virginia Colony indited in 1621 to an English friend : “Our cowekeeper here at James City on Sundays goes accountred all in ffreshe fflaming silke! ! !” And fur ther: “a wife of one that in England professed the black arte not of a ler but of a Collier, weares her beaver hat with a faire pearl hatband . and a silken suite!” Let us hope that these social climbers in due time met their just deserts, and that the cowekeeper in “ffreshe fflaming silke’ [7 was properly put in his place when obtruded his Mephistophian presene among the gentry at places of ener tainment. In the seventeen-fifties, in order 0 be what was then termed “in the kick of society” when attending the opera in New York, a lady bore i | mind the rules summed up in 4 @ & temporary bit of verse: a.

eee 23 <SCRIPT 9 “Let your dress be a sacque, blue, ye | low or green, 3 And frizsle your elbows with ruffles sixteen, in Make your petticoat short, that @ eight feet wide May daintily show how your games are tied.” The tie that binds did not chimeg® hundred and _ seventy-five years ag but the touch of Nature still makes Bt and present kin in the matter of showing, and, only a few yeals the composer of “The Jewels of Madonna” established a new inti! between opera and garter by vie score, “Gli Amanti Sposi,” the story : which turns on a “blue band of hap (Continued on page 166

6-66 8-77

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166 Now You (an STORE UP BEAUTY for the Future's Needs! F YOU arevery young, Dame Nature is supplying you lavishly with the precious ingredients of lasting beauty. Do you know howto store this treasure for future use, when its possession shall become priceless to you? But you are a few years older perhaps, or even advanced to that full maturity when women can (but so seldom do) look their rightful best. At these ages womankind is draw- ing heavily upon her reserve of beauty’s vital ingredient. Freshness — a soft, smooth, glowing skin — can be retained or restored through safeguarding and replenish- ing Nature’s own beauty gift. That is the great mission of the Lady Anne Treatment. And each patron is delighted with the marvelous way in which the Lady Anne treatment corrects what she instinctively knows to be er weak spot. For those who cannot visit the Salon, the Lady Anne Treatment can easily be taken at home. It comprises certain essentials and certain variables, to meet individual needs. Send for Lady Anne’s Analysis Chart which will be mailed without obligation, together with an enlightening booklet on attaining loveliness: “At Home With Lady Anne” IN NEW YORK LADY ANNE PREPARATIONS ARE EXCLUSIVE WITH Franklin Simon 8 Co. FIFTH AVE. at 38th ST. Try ONE Treatment and notice the difference. Phone PLAZA 9519 SALON 665 FIFTH AVENUE AT 53rd STREET NEW YORK Barnum, of circus fame, presented Jenny Lind, the Swedish nightingale, “to the opera-loving public’ in the Castle Garden in 1850 EARLY OPERA IN NEW YORK (Continued from page 164) ness” that has strayed from its natural habitat. In 1750, calashes, enormous sun- shade bonnets like the top of an old- fashioned chaise, protected the high, powdered coiffures of “borrowed hair” of the fashionable fair on their way to the opera, where the ladies graced their boxes in gowns of paduasoy, a smooth Paduan silk, alamode, plain, glossy, and lutestring, plain soft silk, and damask and brocaded silks richly pat- terned in glowing colours. The corsage bouquet in those early days was de- scribed as “bosom flowers.” Every woman of fashion had her “bosom bottle,’ a small flat glass filled with water, often covered with silk match- ing the colour of the gown, and worn in the stomacher, in which reposed the stems of the “bosom flowers.” Respectable elderly gentlemen then had no need to blush at aught they saw on the stage—their clothes blushed for them. For “murray,” a _ reddish- purple, was a favourite evening colour for the older society man, and it is not surprising that, at a time when men wore nightgowns of crimson Genoa damask, one might see at the opera “dresses of the most brilliant silks and gauzes, and skin-tight knee-breeches (like the modern knickerbockers) of broadcloth” to accompany queues and scratch-wigs, waistcoats of rainbow hue, silk stockings, and silver-buckled shoes. New York society, thus splendidly arrayed, displayed itself in the John Street Theatre, opened in 1767 and popularly known as the “City Theatre” of New York, where plays and operas were given until the actual outbreak of hostilities between the patriots and the “bloody-backs,” as we then coarsely termed our cousins across the water. The bills announcing performances said: “Ladies will please send their servants to keep their places at 4 o'clock,” and, from four to six, the front seats were occupied by _ black slaves waiting for their masters and mistresses to appear. BOX PRIVILEGES No librettos were seen in the body of the house, as to-day, and the libretto was significantly known as “the box book.” The custom of “waiting on ladies and gentlemen at their houses” with bills of the opera or play to be given, however, had already been dropped in 1762, as being an “incon- venience to the person so waited on rather than a compliment.” From the two rows of boxes, the gentlemen in “the high kick of society” could “ogl the singers on the stage;” and, if this preliminary view were satisfactory, they could even “ogle” at closer range, since a box ticket admitted the holder behind the scenes, a privilege denied those in the pit and gallery. Opera went into a decline in Jan- uary, 1770, when the “bloody-backs’ burned the liberty-pole that the patriots had set up and brought about the fight that is claimed by certain historians to be the first battle of the War of In- dependence. It is true that the British officers gave plays and comedies with music, including Burgoyne’s satirical “Blockade of Boston,” but the eggs broken in the scrambling of the Ameri- can omelette of freedom were far more effectual in putting opera out of ex istence, for the time being, than th eggs of which David Douglas had complained in 1762. A PRESIDENT AS OPERAGOER The period immediately after the War of Independence is notable, be- cause then, and never since, we had as a national head a personality so out standing, so kingly, that, albeit u- crowned, his box at the opera Was practically a box royal. The Virginia gentleman, George Washington, wher, as President of the United States, he went to the opera in Philadelphia, at the South Street Theatre, or at th John Street Theatre in New York, did so in quasi-royal state. me By rabid anti-federalists, Washing: ton was actually suspected of strivins for a crown. Of his inauguration New York, the Virginian John Ras: dolph bitterly said: “I saw the -_, tion (such, in fact, it was) of Genet Washington ;”’ and his formal “draw- ing-rooms,” at which he received from eight to nine on Friday evenings, 8" rise to wild rumours that he held “royal court.” No doubt, Randolp! was also shocked when, at the brilliant inauguration ball given early in May in the Assembly Rooms on Broadwa) near Wall Street, every woman a attended “was presented with ; _ prepared in Paris, with an ivory tie which, when opened, displayed bx ‘ ness of Washington in profile. ss In Philadelphia, “the east stag af in the South Street Theatre was ™ (Continued on page 168) Octod The gow to a sim} Gtiquet Jeman. the Person Letter

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168 o Step-in 7979 WHERE STYLE BEGINS }yfo DART Foundation Lines beautifully expressed in the garment of your choice FRONT LACED CORSETS STEP-INS NON-LACING CORSETS BRASSIERES COMBINATIONS BANDEAUX MODART CORSET COMPANY Factory: Sacinaw, MIcHicaN - New York Orrice, 362 FirrH Ave. A smart masculine opcragoer of 1850, attending the Castle Garden or the Academy of Music, wore a costume such as this EARLY OPERA IN NEW _ YORK (Continued from page 166) expressly for the reception of General Washington. Over the front of the box was the United States coat of arms; red drapery was gracefully festooned in the interior and about the exterior, the seats and front were cushioned. Mr. Wignell, in a full dress of black, hair powdered and adjusted to the for- mal fashion of the day, with two silver candlesticks and wax candles, would thus await the General's arrival at the box door entrance and, with great re- finement of address and courtly man- ners, conduct this best of public men and his suite to his box. A guard of the military attended. A soldier was gen- erally posted at each stage door; four were posted in the gallery, assisted by the high constable of the city and other police officers, to preserve something like decorum among the sons of social liberty.””, Alas—presumably after the General had withdrawn, and “the guard of the military” had left with him—, disorder all too often succeeded decorum, for “as soon as the curtain was down, the gods in the galleries would throw apples, nuts, bottles, and glasses on the stage and into the or- chestra, and that part of the house being always crowded it was hard to discover the real perpetrators.” So far as Washington is concerned, we have his own word for it that “I can neither sing nor raise a single note on any instrument,” yet he was fond of dramatic music, and Shield’s “The Poor Soldier” was his favourite ballad- opera. At the John Street Theatre in New York, where the “president’s march” was always played when he appeared, Washington heard the first performance, on December 9, 1789, of Dunlap’s ‘“Darby’s Return,” a sequel to Shield’s score. THE PRESIDENTIAL COACH He probably did not drive to the opera in his canary coloured state coach, with its ornamental crests and decorations of gilded nymphs and cupids, its bewigged and liveried coach- man and footman, its six horses in all the glory of “painted hoofs,” and its uniformed outriders. Pomp such as this would be reserved for the occasions when the President attended sessions of Congress. No doubt, a_ simpler equipage drew up at the John Street Theatre entrance, perhaps the one mentioned in his diary, when he says, some two weeks after the performance, that in Bowling Green he “exercised in the Post-Chaise with Mrs, Washing. ton to-day.” We may be sure he was shown to his box with as much honour as in Phik. delphia and, once there, gave his ful attention to the stage. Dunlap’s open makes clear how “Darby,” the Pres: dent’s favourite, after fighting valiantly in the Continental buff and blue, re. turns to Ireland and tells the tale of his adventures. But Washington hin- self was the cynosure of all eyes, and, for once, an opera audience can not be blamed for paying more attention to the hero in the box than the hero o the stage. When Darby described the President’s inauguration to the Presi- dent’s very face, and the soldiers sweetheart asked: “How looked he Darby? Was he short or tall?” that august face showed great embarrass ment. The modest Father of his Cou- try abominated eulogies, Great was his relief when Darby told Kathleen tha he had not laid eyes on the President mistaking a man “all lace and glitter botherum and shine” for him, an Washington was so happy at escaping the ordeal of listening to a fulsomely flattering allocution delivered in public that “he indulged in what was for him extremely rare, a hearty laugh.” THE GENERAL’S ATTIRE The General’s own attire when a tending the opera was that of the other gentlemen in civil life. Does not his adopted grandson tell us: “He never appeared in military costume unless at reviews or when receiving his bretl- ren of the Cincinnati . . . and then m a plain buff and blue ar only decorations were “the brilliant epaulettes, a gift of Lafayette, and the diamond Order of the Cincinnati pi sented to him by the seamen of the French fleet.” When, become P _ Washington reverted to civilian ¢ E niu ibbon “the cocked hat with the black , cockade was the only reminder of the heroic days.” Legend, however, h Washington’s figure te that we find it hard to believe that I very theatre he honoured ag 1 presence bore posters saying: i. offensive practice to ladies am ” gerous to the house of smoking rt during the performance, It }S oa every gentleman will consent fn absolute prohibition of.” We ft ceive: of Washington at the op (Continued on page 170) as so surrounded with veneration uniform.” His | SPI ter ar are 4

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LEN OLIE FOUNDATIONS Every posture is a thing of beauty, every line a lovely rhythm, when you wear, as foundations, the perfect garments of Bien Jolie. At all good stores Write for ikuStrations of the newe Bien Josie Models BEMJAMIN & J ‘OU NES 358 Fifth Avenue, Dept. V, New York Loveliness in Every Line CLEVE ALLPRPRLALEM: LLBALEMA SPR GS EARLY OPERA IN NEW VOGUR YORK (Continued from page 168) wreathed in incense, but wreathed in tobacco smoke ? The Opera, in fact, seems to have been frequently destructive to good manners. At the first Park Theatre, opened in 1798 (destroyed by fire in 1820, this first Park Theatre was suc- ceeded by a new Park Theatre, which was the first real “grand opera” house in America), if a well-dressed man en- tered the pit, those in the gallery called to him to doff his hat, which it was customary to wear in the house, as a mark of inferiority. If he refused, he was showered with abuse, oaths, and indecent remarks. Yet, the cursers were “people of the better class, since, in those days, the common people sought their amusements elsewhere.” With the beginning of the nineteenth century, opera came to be regarded by many with suspicion, as a moral men- ace. Washington, a typical gentleman of his day, was neither a prig nor a Puritan. He believed in the decencies of good dress and good manners and was fond of music and the play, with- out seeing evil in them. But when close- fitting knee-breeches were dropped, breadth of view seems to have fallen with them; the coming in of loose pantaloons appears to have coincided with that of narrow prejudice. Josiah Quincy, horrified by “The 3eggar’s Opera” and others of its kind, declared, “the stage is a nursery of vice which disseminates its seeds far and wide.” Yet, his censures did not overly affect the beau monde, either as regarded the stage or their own dress. A New York statute of 1792 read: “Any white female of ten years or up- ward who shall appear in any public street, lane, highway, church, court- house, tavern, ball room or theatre or any place of public resort with naked shoulders, if able to purchase the nec- essary clothing, shall pay a fine of no less than one hundred and no more than two hundred dollars.” The “naked shoulders,” however, continued to be a commonplace in the opera-house, and it was, of course, impossible to apply the statute in question to the “best people” in town. QUESTIONS OF ATTIRE When lace shoes supplanted paste- buckled pumps, John Jay cried, “with small clothes and buckles the high tone of society departed,” but society took neither its supposed loss nor Quincy’s virtuous strictures seriously. Not only did it continue to sit in its boxes with bare-shouldered unconcern, but, in 1803, there were even complaints that the opera “now answers the purpose of a coffee-house, or fashionable lounge where many in the boxes indulge in loud conversation.” A contemporary plan of reform included: for the or- chestra, “new music and more of it;” for the pit, “patience, clean benches, and umbrellas;” and, for the gallery, “less grog and better constables.” The introduction of the “chemise dress” for ladies during the time of the First Empire, haloed with the reflected glory of the French Court, where the Em- press Josephine had made it the fash- ion, surely must have upset John Jay, for, made like an ordinary gored chemise, it was familiarly known as the “immodesty bit,” more proper for bed than the opera. The season of 1825, the year when John Quincy Adams was inaugurated as President, stands out as the first season of grand opera in New York. It was a great year in more ways than one, for it marked the opening of the Erie Canal. The progress of the flotilla of canal-boats from Buffalo to Sandy Hook was relayed from City to city by signal guns to New York. he hie thusiasm broke loose in church I ‘le horns, and fire-bells, and the Huds “ mirrored the flames of hundreds «f bonfires. Little did the exulting th : sands foresee the tragic throttlin - the great inland water route my : railroads. dies In refined contrast to the crude musical rejoicings of the ceremony pes the Canal, “the upper exClusives” of the day “enthused” over Manuel Garcia’ opera company, including his daughter Maria, better known as Madame Mali. bran, then a girl of nineteen, Leese Da Ponte, the librettist of Moaart’s “Don Giovanni,” a human link with the historic past, was living in New York and helped stage the score for which he had written the book. A BRILLIANT AUDIENCE IN 1825 When, later, the Park Theatre opened on November 29, 1825, with “The Barber of Seville,” the exclusives of New York mustered in full force. To quote a newspaper account of the performance, “An assemblage of ladies so fashionable, so numerous and s0 elegantly dressed has probably never been witnessed in an American thea- tre.” And in the boxes, no doubt, the young swells spared an occasional ap- proving glance for their shapely panta- loons, “tapering the leg from knee to foot” and fastened with a strap beneath the shoe, @ la mode de Paris, then newly introduced. With box seats at the then high price of two dollars each, Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Naples and of Spain, James Fenri- more Cooper, and Fitz-Greene Halleck, the poet whose ‘Fanny,” a. satiric poem on local foibles and fashions in the metre of Byron’s “Don Juan” had established his fame, lent glory to the occasion. Not a social shadow marred the per- formance, for “the seedy people in the pit were not talked to by box folk.” But, when the Garcia strayed from the operatic boards and sang on the Sab- bath at one of the fashionable evan- gelical churches, we learn that “the feelings of many Christians were out- raged,” because, ‘‘crowds of young men attended to listen to the music but went away before the preaching!” Yet, in 1836, the Park Theatre boxes were “like pens for beasts,” their seats only board benches covered with dingy red moreen. Joseph Bonaparte’s head no longer “uneasy rested” when he at- tended the opera, for he wore no crown But one hopes that on the evening of the girlish Garcia’s début, “evil smells that later were said to rise from the “dirty pit” and the rats that ran across the stage into the orchestra were absent. The rival for the Park Theatte was the New York Theatre, on the fashionable Bowery, south of Canal Street (afterward the Thalia), where Malibran sang in English and Italian opera. MDa Ponte was less successful than Garcia as an impresario when hee tempted to manage the Richmond Hi Theatre. A noble old me hs Richmond Hill (now occupied ; i row of brick houses on Charl Street, east of Varick) was remodel and opened as an opera-house ee with Montressor, a French tenet plying the money. Washington, Cornwallis, and Lord Howe ae 3 lingered over their wine and ches “a in the old Colonial house. John Sr , Adams for a time had sanctifie i. with the aura of New England = spectability, and Aaron Burr, nv . (Continued on page 172) Oct Maker Orchic AT J IMI OL —for fitte LOOk

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i i 4 THE SILHOUETTE New «slender-as the mode is It’s quite as thin as your slenderest compact; you will carry it in your smallest bag, this new Silhouette Douglass. And what a joy to have it along. You want a light? It proffers one with a charming grace—the in- stant you press the trigger. Com- pletely automatic, it lights all afternoon or evening without soil- ing your glove or finger tip. And it serves you in the true manner of a Douglass—depend- j ably. No working part has been reduced in size for the Silhouette model; none had to be, because of its unique design—every part set in one straight line. Choose the finish you wish. Whether it be a charming leather to complete an ensemble or a gleaming metal case, you'll find a widely varied display at your pre- ferred shop. Prices are $10 to $1000 for the Silhouette. The Standard Douglass is there, too, in just as many finishes, and the prices start at $5.00. The Douglass Lighter Press the trigger, there's your light Ask to see the new windshield attachment for Douglass Light- ers; it’s @ wonder Use Douglass : Lighter Fluid — SY oraviation ~ h/ gasolene “J SPONSORED BY HARGRAFT WRIGLEY BUILDING, CHICAGO Canadian distributor: A. W. W. KYLE Co., 3 St. NICHOLAS St., MONTREAL, QUEBEC VOGu; EARLY OPERA IN NEW YORK) (Continued from page 170) his mad dream of a Mexican imperial _ than lose the social opportunj crown, had there entertained royalty’s Harlem Street Railroad We: Th | : A e Toa ad ady . most humdrum adventurer, Louis- tised that after the opera “a Jar 2 Philippe. (horse, of course), “well-]j ed nad When Vice-President John Quincy warmed,” would be run “tom th : Adams kept house in the Richmond ner of Chambers Street and tan Hill mansion, which later became the Street as far as Forty-Second Ps theatre, it was the scene of one of the that vague No Man’s Land on jon most excruciating examples of aristo- skirts of the town, for the heat cratic bad manners known to history. operagoers. Despite this indhatae The unpopular French ambassador to and others, the enterprise failed a the new republic, the Marquis de a year. sy Moustier, who appeared among the Poor Palmo had proudly don, the | plebeian circles to which he had been honours of the Café des Mille ¢ | exiled in all the glory of red-heeled onnes, Broadway, above Duane Stet | shoes, powdered wig, gold earrings, and where Louis Bonaparte, later the En. j court sword, came to dinner at Rich- peror Napoleon III, during his say | mond Hill. While the other guests, in- in New York “often had been seen i j cluding Baron von Steuben, Thomas very bad company.” Shorn of his f- Jefferson, “just back from France in nancial strength by the Delilah mus the red waistcoat and breeches then of opera, Palmo brought the “thousand the fashion at Versailles,” and Van columns” of his restaurant tumbling Birket, the Dutch envoy, ate the food down on his head and was reduced ,) | set before them, de Moustier refused to _ tending bar for a living. Yet, perhaps touch it and had himself served with his fate was not undeserved, for Palny the special dishes his own cook (whom __ had tried to “democratize” opera, he had brought along) prepared for The Astor Place Opera House (oy him in his hostess’s kitchen. “I have the site of the present Mercantil suffered too much from bad dinners in Library) was another vanished pala New York to neglect to take pre- of sound, opened in 1847, with a gua cautions,” was the careless explanation antee by fifty gentlemen of the “social the gallant nobleman vouchsafed Mrs. élite.” It was a genuine “society” Adams. opera-house, in which every seat-holder could be seen as well as see, and 10 OPERA IN AN HISTORIC MANSION lady was admitted unless accompanied by a gentleman. “Never, perhaps, wa | When the Richmond Hill mansion — ever any opera-house built which af. | became the Richmond Hill Theatre forded a better opportunity for the | in 1832, however, it was “a place of | display of dress,” says one who knows; | amusement far removed from the trav- while a bit of verse current at the tim: | elled highways.” It had opened with proves that then, as now, the feminine a fiourish, and the handsome bass operagoers’ costumes featured the bar Fornasari “taught the belles the road to essentials, since: Richmond Hill,” but it failed after only thirty-five performances of Italian “When dressed for the evening, th opera, for all the Richmond Hill Thea- girls nowadays tre had changed its name to the Italian Scarce an atom of dress on thei Opera House and its activities to the leave ; American or Bowery Theatre in 1833. None blame them, for what is a It seems as though New York in those evening dress days should have been able to support But a dress that is suited to Eve’ a new opera enterprise, for the Ameri- can correspondent of the London Trained monkeys crowded the trained Harmonium writes in 1830, “New _ singers from the stage within the spac: York is not a seat of government, yet of three short years, however, and we it is the London of the United States.” are told, incidentally, that “the mor- But, perhaps, there were others who, key troupe compared well, on the scor like Mayor Philip Hone, a box holder, of dignity, with many of the habitus objected to “the Pedrotte, the prima of the opera-house.” donna . . . no more comparable to Two years later, Barnum called at Fanny Kemble than I to the Apollo — tention to Castle Garden by his pro Belvedere, a sunflower to a violet, a duction there of Jenny Lind, in Se cart-horse to the Bussorah Arabian, an tember, 1850. In her voice, he foune ale-house sign to a landscape of “pay dirt” richer than any of the Claude, or Jane, our chambermaid, to thousands then flocking to the Cali- Mrs. Gardiner Howland.” fornia gold-fields ever panned, = It was in the eighteen-thirties that _ trills of the Swedish nightingale “7 severly Robinson, a New York Pe- money even more quickly than the tronius of the time, stood out as the trumpetings of the African elephant, last gentleman to do homage to an Jumbo being the showmans twin o eighteenth-century tradition by wearing traction. Jumbo’s pagan trump ws “a sword with his evening dress” when _ only heard in its appropriate circus sur | he attended the fashionable assembly roundings, but human entertainers now / balls and the opera at Richmond Hill. rushed in where elephants feared 1 § The rapier with a polished stee] handle __ tread. ee ee pa cia that hung at his side in a velvet scab- Twenty-five years before, the ro ?. bard was the last assertion of the me- _ had “outraged” the pious gers 3 dieval idea of a gentleman’s right to church; “now things of a simula wear his sword at all social or public ture excite scarcely any remark wee functions. members of opera compan! ch In 1844, Ferdinand Palmo’s Opera Lind among them) sing on — House on Chambers Street, a few the House of God who, on penny blocks east of Broadway (the Fourth — evenings, entertain audiences uae Avenue Tunnel was then regarded as _ buffoonery.” And such was = a the engineering marvel of the age), the singer created that, for a timé,“'"" which realized the musical dream of a York knew only “Jenny - ‘i successful restauranteur, opened bril- rooms and bonnets, gloves, ha ped liantly with the prima donna Borghese, sols and_ shawls, pancakes, pore in “I Puritani.” Its boxes in alternate and waltzes.” In Maretzek’s $ after crimson and blue silk with gold- season of 1853, at Castle oa tasselled curtains were filled with “the Jenny Lind had retired fron most elegant society,” and one rich President Pierce came - pe parvenu paid his six thousand dollars, — ton with his cabinet to pa the price of a box, on the spot, rather (Continued on page es (Jeny &

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174 | ‘ls Marjorie Oelrichs | wrote this | beauty COUISE F. E. Geisler for you

“From childhood”, says Mrs. Marjorie Oelrichs, “I have known the secrets by which women develop and keep their beauty.” And looking at Mrs. Oelrichs, one softly sighs “How true that is!” For Mrs. Oelrichs is beautiful... charming! All her world—the fashion- able world of smart society — knows that Mrs. Oelrichs speaks with author- ity on feminine charm and loveliness. And now Mrs. Oelrichs has written this Home Beauty Course for you. A lovely, readable book it is, full of the gold of her wisdom—96 pages of prac- tical information set down in the simplest language in a full sized book 6°x9”, The Boncilla Laboratories have pur- chased the entire edition of this book. It is exactlywhat thewomen of America need and want. Accurate, scientific and practical instructions, which will enable any woman to do for herself —in her own home—much that the most expensive beauty expert can do for her. There comes with the book—to make it absolutely practical —a fas- cinating box—your own “Little Beauty Shop” — containing the six essentials you will need to begin carrying out her instructions at once. You’ll know how to be lovelier in ten minutes after you’ve read her chapter on make-up. Home Beauty Course by Mrs. Marjorie Oelrichs o THE BOOK wo Introduction—The Philosophy of Beauty—My Philosophy of Life. Chapter 1—You area type—envy no other. Chapter 2—Your skin—how it may be promptly im- proved. Chapter 3—The weekly restoring work. Chapter ia | arms and hands—making them beau- tiful. Chapter 5—Corrective work —ridding yourself of blem- ishes. Chapter 6—To control flesh—diet. Chapter 7—What exercises to take—and why. Chapter 8—Right make-up—for your type. Chapter 9—Your hair—how to care for it and dress it. Chapter 10—Your clothes —the importance of colors and lines Chapter 11—For the Girl who is not popular. Chapter 12—An intimate chapter for Wives. wo THE BOX wo The Little Beauty Shop containing the 6 essentials: 1 jar Boncilla Skin-Food 1 jar Boncilla Cold Cream 1 jar Boncilla Vanishing Cream 1 jar Boncilla Cleansing Cream 1 box Boncilla Face Powder 1 tube Boncilla Clasmic Pack. These are not sample size. They contain at least a two weeks’ supply.

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EARLY OPERA (Continued from page 172) Crystal Palace of New York and at- tended the opera. Maretzek’s billing of the great occasion neatly reflected the respective drawing powers of the then first operatic prima donna and the first magistrate of the land, for his placards read: “Mme. Sontag—Robert le Diable —The President of the United States.” THE ACADEMY OF MUSIC The heyday of Castle Garden’s musi- cal glory was in 1854, when Mario and Grisi sang within its walls (a year later they were to reecho the polyglot babble of European immigrant hosts), and, in the same year, the Academy of Music, at Fourteenth Street and Irving Place, was opened, to survive all its predecessors and reign for many years as the representative opera-house of New York society. The opening of the first Academy of Music may properly conclude our ar- ticle. It affirmed the final passing of the era of the War for Independence and the advent of an age of new sow- ings and fresh plantings in the fields of art that were to bear fruit in suc- ceeding decades. And, as though in hail and farewell to the past, at the Academy of Music, in the first year of its existence, was given an opera ideal- izing the man who still personifies the Revolution in American eyes. When the Academy of Music at Irv- ing Place and Fourteenth Street opened its doors for the first time, a living link connected the New York of 1854 with the New Amsterdam of 1654. The Stuyvesant pear-tree, planted by Peter Stuyvesant, last Dutch governor of the New Netherlands, still budded out in green leaves each spring within its iron railing on the corner of Third Avenue and Thirteenth Street and was cher- ished as a memorial of early times. And now the Academy, which was new when the Stuyvesant pear-tree was old, has grown old and has vanished in its turn, passing, in the course of its three score and ten years plus one of exis- tence, from Mozart and Mario to Monte Blue and Marie Prevost. In the early eighteen-fifties, there was ‘less outward difference between a French duchesse and a marchande des mondes than between a Pearl Street merchant’s lady and a_ Broadway tradesman’s wife.” The Battery was the promenade where fashionable folk walked and gossiped within earshot of the vesper chimes of ‘“slumberous Trinity.” The town amusements were the Crystal Palace, Wallack’s Theatre, and the Opera—the Astor Place Opera House was promptly dubbed “the old opera” when the Academy was built. At Castle Garden, Julien, the flam- boyant French conductor and supposed hero of Du Maurier’s novel “Trilby,” who afterward passed from a Paris debtor’s prison to an insane asylum when the failure of his lavishly staged opera “Pierre le Grand” bankrupted him, was the musical sensation, with monster concerts, an orchestra carried in gorgeous travelling vans, big _post- ers, and flaming red programs. While Julien cavorted wildly on the leader’s stand, to fling himself exhausted into an easy chair when a selection was ended, young New York of both sexes sat on the outer gallery running around the Castle Garden Hall and overhang- ing the bay. There, while the music played within, they murmured sweet nothings, “he smoking, if she per- mitted,” and she sipping a sherbet or lemonade, as they looked out over the bay. It was to the new Academy, erect- ed at a cost of three hundred and VOGU; | Octo IN NEW yor opener 2 aa a , d NE socially lq, were expected to flock on the open night, October second, 1854 . Mario and Giulia Grisj jn ‘No * , ° 4NOrma Yet, the audience was neither ag lan nor as brilliant as was expected Th was a dearth of ladies in the « ‘ donna” cloaks of blue and ruby = then the mode. Nor was this Prog for, as early as 1800, the American md monde had repudiated the Operatic fre night as unfashionable. As temporaries saw it, “the new houg :§ very brilliant, very festive, very han, some ... but its shape is unpardonabi and heavy columns intercept too myc) the view of the stage. The Steep bite of the tier toward the stage, howeve, displays the audience to the most bri liant advantage. It is superior to a E foreign theatres in this respect, an with due allowance for satire on th gingerbread and gilt’ decorations th whole effect of the new house js spa- cious and elegant.” Grisi was then past her pring Norma was her great rdle, and, in fy. mer years, she had been praised for th “transcendent effect of her vocalizatio, of Casta diva.” At the opening of th new Academy, however, she suffered by comparison with Jenny Lind and ws coldly received. Yet, a kindly critic, in. dulging in one of those flights of fancy common to a more sentimental da evoked the singer’s olden succes} (though won in Venice and Paris, and not in New Orleans) “in a theatr thronged with lovely, languid Creok beauties, amid a Spanish splendour oi lighted boxes, perfume, and flowers, th idol of a society to whom the opera was dear. As she raises her voice in Cas diva and in thought renews her eatly triumphs, twenty years melt from her throat—the Priestess dreams she is it Paris, and forgets the boreal atmos phere of Irving Place!” Poor Gris! The stage was as cold as the audient and she had to draw her ermine cloti close around her magnificent shouldes to keep from freezing, in fact, as s! sang to the barbarous Yankees. “LA SPIA” It was on March 24, 1854, that Ar diti’s “La Spia” at the Academy ma¢ clear that the glamour of the past hit begun to wreathe the Revolution wi! poesy and music. “La Spia,” sung < Italian, was Cooper’s novel libretticu | by Manetta to make a Piedmontes) composer’s operatic holiday. Luigi At § diti’s music, in Bellini’s best style, hie} a sentimental sweetness that did not} always fit its subject, but the work} scored a success, musical and patriot) or, perhaps, musical because patriotic § Harvey Birch, the Continental # saves Edith Wharton, fiancée of Mal) Dinwiddie of the Virginia Dragos from a house aflame, in one © ce opera’s thrilling scenes, at @ when he is not busy bringin ington valuable information. a Washington himself does not appt : No, not even when it is necessr tell the world that Birch is 4 0 ’ and blue patriot. With a sentim ‘ which Mr. Woodward would eat librettist informed all and sundr) ip he had refrained from bring Father of his Country 0? “a s “from a feeling of reverent & J spect.” Instead, a letter from ui f declares Birch the faithful s? al freedom’s cause, and it 1s to t 4 ") of drums and blare of, —" Cale Spia’s” final chorus of “Hal win bia,” that we may let the vow Yet on a sketch of early opera inX€

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Page 209

ORK} “compar ally elec e Opening » to hey “Norm, r as lary ed. Ther “prin; by velye $ Strang ican beay ratic firy AS con. house j Ty hand. rdonabl [00 much Pep pite! however 10st bril. or to al p ect, and e On th ions, th E is spe. * prime , in for- d for th alization ig of th ffered by and was ritic, in- of faney tal day success aris, and theatr 1 Creok dour of vers, th Dera Was in Caste er early rom her he is in atmos- > Gris! udient’ re cloak 10ulders as oh S, hat Ar y mad ast had yn wit! sung i tticized | nontes: igi Ar F le, had F lid 0! j > Work} triotic. § triotic. F al spy Major j 1 g000S. F of the§ nomen! Wash- 4 «Bue appear sary (0 ye Dull rent 2! er, he B ry tha! ng tD staf nd s ha?

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Page 210

176 (fine and Cyenuine as your own true love It must be worthy of her .: . that ring of yours that she will wear. And it must be worthy of you and your devotion... so fine and genuine that she can be as proud of it as she is of you. And so you will want the free new book of Bluebird Rings. Every Bluebird Ring is a proud possession admired by all because it is a genuine diamond in an exquisite setting. Every one is backed by a Warranty Certificate. Every one can be bought from established, well-known jewelers. Every one is tagged with a metal tag bearing the proper retail price as guaranteed by the Bluebird Diamond Syndicate. And these prices are proper. They range from $50 to $500. There is a little booklet—the wonder book of engagement rings— “The Book That Lovers Love.” So send the coupon, get the book and plan with her to make your dreams come true — Bluebird Diamond Syndicate, 31 North State St., Chicago, Ill. Bluebird GENUINE DIAMOND RINGS RADDPAAAYWYNY Bluebird Diamond Syndicate, Dept. 10-D 31 No. State St., Chicago, Ill. ail In Canada: Maurice J. Walsh, Limited 910 Federal Bldg., Toronto, Ont. Gentlemen: Please send me ‘“The Book That Lovers Love.” No obligation, of course. a Name Address City State. | CONCERNING HE French are very busy manu- facturers of paper-boxes—not merely such small wares as pill-boxes, but a whole class of boxes of which cartonnage, or pasteboard, is the ma- terial. No less than four thousand persons are said to be thus employed in Paris, and these are not employed in- discriminately on all kinds. Jacques 3onhomme may make very good pill- boxes, but it does not follow that he can produce the other varieties equally well. The boxes are classified almost with the care and discrimination with which the naturalist classifies his plants and animals. BOXES OF VARIOUS TYPES First in rank come the most elabo- rately finished and ornamental boxes, for the display of artificial flowers, rich velvets, ribbons, satins, silk trim- mings, corbeilles for wedding presents, and other costly delicacies that ap- peal to the purses of the wealthy. These require the services of the most skilled artisans in the cartonnage trade. Next in rank come the boxes and small cartonnage decorations required by the confectioner for the tasteful adornment of his table sweets or for packing the smaller sweets for sale. An- other class of boxes comprises those used for packing numerous nameless trinkets, which the Frepch are in the habit of selling at twenty-five sous a box. Fourth on the list are found those boxes that are used to contain perfumery, fans, gloves, and various articles of haberdashery. Boxes of the fifth class, larger in size, but humbler in quality, are ‘those that may be seen on the shelves of mercers, milliners, and haberdashers, containing the largest goods that can conveniently be placed in paper-boxes. The sixth, smallest, and cheapest, but most numerous, and certainly not the least commercially important, are pro- ductions of the pill-box and wafer- box type. In neatness of execution and light- ness and delicacy of ornament this French cartonnage maintains a high reputation. Besides these six classes, the boxes for fruit are largely made in France, especially at Bordeaux. WHERE BOXES ARE MADE Wherever the manufacture of lace, gloves, or light articles of haberdashery and hosiery is largely carried on, there is sure to be an extensive demand for paper-boxes. Thus, paper-boxes are made in Manchester, Nottingham, Leicester, and Belfast, as well as in Birmingham, for the innumerable trin- kets of that town. The paper duty presses heavily on this home manufacture. Lest any one should imagine that boxes and wrappers and labels for manufactured articles are trifling matters, we may mention that Belfast is said to spend four hundred thousand dollars a year for the ornamental wrappers in which Irish linen is bound for export, and that the School of Design in that town is looked forward to as a means of educating designers for this, as well as for other departments of artistic adornment for manufactures. In the higher departments of paper-box mak- ing, the fabrication of the box itself is a small matter compared with the adornment. The smoothly rolled carton or pasteboard is cut to size, and, by delicate touches of the scissors, the paste-brush, and the gum pencil, the structure is built up. The paint and the varnish, the enamel and the gelatine, the gold and the embossment, do the rest. There are writing-desks and work- boxes now made of carton, with VOGUzR Octo PAPER “BOXER Ss SSS isa et CGE of opera . fexture of the carton self presenting an unexcept; oe groundwork on which tahte ae i afterwards displayed. Time Re | when the making of carton d i = —“papyro-plastics’—wa Satanic pursuit. J Small haberdashery, small confection, ry, and small trinkets are Packed an immense extent in boxes made wit surprising cheapness. Some of thes boxes, though of paper externally a really made of wood: th ‘: - Bese ; ; they are 6f th | kind called scaleboard, A pretty anf this—of making scaleboard ot ds ‘ the h thick plank. There is a sharp cuttine § instrument, bearing much resemblane: to an ordinary plane-iron; it jg ag Jon, | WAVE as a plank is wide and is used to cu off a layer, or shaving, or veneer. ¢ scale from the plank. The plank ~~ you moved by a steam engine and is drawn steadily over the inverted plane-iro: (which is fitted to a bench). by which a slice is shaved off, and this js » peated until the whole thickness if an 0 the plank is sliced away. So nice jys this art now become that, with a yer smooth-grained and regular kind the deal, one hundred and twenty films or scales are occasionally cut from a inch of thickness; for there is no suv: dust, no waste. Like a well-conditioned wheaten loaf, the plank may be sliced smar without making crumbs. It is, however : rarely that the wood is cut to such ex treme thinness as this; a thirtieth o and fortieth of an inch is a much mor usual and useful thickness. This, ther, is the scaleboard employed by the box- maker; he procures it from the sav: mills and forthwith fashions it to his wants. The scale is cut half through and turned up to form sides and ends Thin paper is pasted on both sides to strengthen the slender structure ani to form the hinges. A little paste a glue cements the junctures, and th outer covering of smarter paper giv much of the strength and all of th beauty that the box may present. Sa favouriy from resto utmo METHODS AND MATERIALS But the boxes of which we are not speaking—oblong, quadrangular boxts from an inch or two to a foot or tid in length—are not all made of scale board; some are formed of carton « pasteboard. The pasteboard consis of numerous sheets of paper, pastet, pressed, and rolled into a homogentows substance. The pasteboard, like th scaleboard, is cut half through at tht boundary of the length and breadth 0: the box, to permit the outlying piect to be turned up, forming the sides an! ends. Little square bits are cut ° up to take place. In most such bor ww the horizontal edges form tole! parp strong joints, simply because the cart0 THE s remains in one piece, not being y through; while the vertical edgesa"™ secured rather by the paper with whi) py y. the box is usually lined and covert than by direct application of glue" paste. . What would any such box be wee however, without its external beaut: B GLA The reader may rest assured that ts beauty—real or conventional, as © case may be—is a subject of most = ous thought to the maker. This lite | box is about two inches long by noes inch and a half in width; its" ® | ne | a kind that the maker sells whol ‘1 sale at 3 s. 6d.a grose—e 9 above one farthing a box. mere scaleboard, but real past a covered with glazed paper, edg gold paper, adorned with a f picture on the lid, and — | gelatine as smooth and (Continued on page 190)

Page 211

OGyMoctober 15, 1927 XESp Carance, th f Carton }; it ‘ plank i: d is drany plane-iroy , by whic this is Te ickness of 0 Nice has ith a very r kind of ty films or from an IS no sati= onditioned be sliced , however, ) such ex- uirtieth or uch more ‘his, then, the box. the saw. it to his F through and ends, th sides, cture and paste or and th per gives Il of th / ent.

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olegance Expressive Feet What do your feet express? Your shoes tell the story. - The model illustrated expresses— Elegance—the correct accompaniment to the velvet frock—interpreted in the smooth sheen of a dainty opera pump in black satin, enli- vened rilliant buckle of cut steel. aa a perfect glove-like fit—in the lightweight — quality of the newest slipper satins—in the bal- ance of the smartly poised heel. Quality—in the Hanan Trade-mark. BLACK SATIN OPERA $15.00 BUCKLES FROM FIVE TO FIFTY DOLLARS

Hose to accompany — Gunmetal with black—the chic choice on all occasions. Pastel Parchment—a delicate flesh tone for formal wear $2.95 a pair A Booklet of Fall Footwear will be sent upon request.

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LL S€—-— £~= Correet Color is

N: LONGER is black the only choice for smart maids’ uniforms. Hostesses who follow the newer vogue secure individ- uality as well as quality by choosing Dix-Make Uniforms in soft hues to harmonize with their home decorations. How to select the proper uniform for every occasion is interest- ingly discussed in the Dix “Book of Uniform Etiquette’’. Write Dept. V 3 for your com- plimentary copy.

Dix Uniforms are available at all leading department stores. They can be had from $3.00 to $29.75 Dix-Mlake

MODEL 369. Of fine quality mohair in glace Shades of Brown, Purple, Old Blue, Green, French Grey and Black. Detach- able collar and cuffs of

white Swiss organdie. Sizes 34 to 44. Price $16.50.

Uniforms for Women

177

sophisticated fin ger tips! She is truly the modern woman.. smartly dressed, conversationally clever, exquisitely groomed. Her very finger tips enchant with their lustrous rose-petal beauty. With a few strokes of a brush, she has transformed dull nails into - gaily sparklin finger tips so muc in vogue. Niaede she has chosen Eclador Liquid Nail Polish . favored first by fashionable women on the Continent. Ecladori isa lasting lustre eee in four smart Parisian shades of rose. For the more conservative ...a color- less lustre. And for evening, Eclador Rosée de Perles,a fascinating opaque mother-of-pearl polish... appealing to the lover of the unusual, the exotic. Eclador ... a creation of Maison Lesquendieu . . will not crack, peel or discolor. It i 1s made, packed and sealed at Ivry-sur-Seine eee and i 1s obtainable at your favorite shop. ecla the § lpi

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The makers of Lipstick Tussy J.LESQUENDIEU, Inc.HowardL.Ross,Pres. 45 West 45th Street, New York City

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PPEALINGLY light and dainty— bringing to the figure straight smoothness yet leaving the hint of femi- nine lines, with their charm and _ love- liness. Magic-working darts—exclusive and patented features of this garment— completely replace boning and tight lacing. You have smart style without stiffness— fashion without firmness. Know comfort of the International “NAMELESS” for yourself by trying it on at your corsetiéres. Under-belt garment illustrated No. 7247-S—$12.00 Same style in other beautiful materials $5.00 and up. be VOGoUz Octo THE DIAMOND IN LEGEnNjp C EMS have always fascinated man, their brilliancy and colour awaken- ing in him such longing and admira- tion that, for their possession, no act has been too horrible, no sacrifice too great. And the diamond, the most high- ly prized of the precious stones, has left a trail through history of con- tinual bloodshed and of constant de- light, both inspired by its frozen flame. Although always of great value, the king of the gems at certain periods has been superseded in public favour by other jewels. At the present time, how- ever, the rivals are retreating from the field and the diamond is beginning to reign again in the world of fashion. It is interesting to see how its beauty has quickened the imagination of man in the past and to find out how man has striven to explain its qualities and its charm. The origin of diamonds is still a matter of some dispute to the scientist. That it is a form of carbon is conceded. To the mind of the man living in India, hundreds of years ago, the answer to the question as to how the diamond came to the earth was beautifully clear. One day, the God of the Mines ordered his workers to bring him specimens of all the known gems. He took the ruby, the opal, the turquoise, the topaz, the sapphire, the emerald, stones of every degree of light, and crushed them together. From them, he made the peer of gems—clear white as the rock crystal, but containing within itself the es- sential fire of each stone—, and ever since then the diamond flashes forth the red, the green, the blue, of its elements. In another Indian legend, it is Krishna, the highest deity who has given the diamond to man as a gift. The diamond in these stories is considered a favour of the Gods. The Persians, however, did not regard it as a blessing. In fact, they attributed it to the Devil, for they observed that the passions of covetous- ness and ostentation were often in- cited by sparkling gems.) When Eve was in the Garden of Eden, the Evil One noticed how the many-hued flow- ers held her eye. The glowing shades captivated her ; she could notremainaway from the resplendent blossoms for any length of time. Satan, therefore, made the gems, the diamond and the others, in imitation of the flowers. So carefully and accurately did he steal their gleam- ing colours that all the successive gener- ations of Eves were enchanted. In this way, a most successful snare was foisted upon mankind by the Prince of Darkness. The early Renaissance, seek- ing the truth of things in a more sci- entific spirit, rejected such ideas. The diamond, to them, wasa natural phenom- enon coming into existence from gold and the sun—exactly how was not known, but many ingenious hypotheses were advanced. HOW MAN OBTAINED THE DIAMOND When the problem of the origin of the diamond was satisfactorily settled— it had been either formed by a God or it had fallen down from the sun—, it was still necessary to explain how man, with his bare hands, obtained such fabulous wealth from the earth. One remarkable tradition, in one form or another, persisted in the popular lore. In an early account, supposedly written by Aristotle, there is an in- teresting variation of the theme. Alex- ander, according to this word, was the first to mine diamonds. In the land of Hind, there was a deep valley upon the bottom of which crept loathsome, venomous serpents—so terrible in their aspect that whoever looked upon them dropped dead. Now this valley was also most extraordinary in that it was thickly strewn with diamonds. Alex- ander, unlike many people w sha been there before him, careful i : over the hindrances jn hig way oe beat conceived a plan. He had his followen carry a huge mirror to the rim of valley: the serpents looked at th selves and died. But Alexander call not get the diamonds, for no one woy venture into the depths below, Finalh after a consultation with a wise » pieces of raw meat were thrown inte the valley. Birds of prey swooped dowy and carried off the meat to which a vast number of diamonds adhered, The birds were then chased away, ang the stones gathered. SINBAD AND THE DIAMOND Another version, more popular per- haps, is in “Sinbad the Sailor,” pa of the most thrilling stories in the “Ara. bian Nights’ Entertainment,” Sinbad, at one time, found himself in the y of diamonds, utterly cut off from the world. He observed that merchants threw quantities of meat into the valley and that, each time, birds flew away with them. By holding on to a piece of meat, later borne away by a huge bird, he effected his escape. The fun damental tale arose probably from the © Hindu custom of sacrificing to the | God of the Mines whenever a new ming was opened. The meat was left there after the ceremony and was almost im- mediately eaten by the vultures, Some- times, a diamond might have been found sticking to the meat that one of the birds dropped. The _preva- lence of these stories indicates that the belief in such a method was current for many years. Knowledge of the actual operation of a diamond mine did not become widespread in Europe until the sever.teenth century, when the Indian mines were described by travel- lers. Before the legends clustering about How Eu the properties of the diamond are delighte considered, it is essential that we w- § ture tha derstand what significance a precios § The tin stone had for the man of former times ail ail We now think of gems as ornaments; § °°” ¥ something to set off the beauty of a — MUSIC, woman—rubies against raven hair, e- ord of « eralds on white fingers. But, until two precious hundred years ago, a jewel was thought ? of in a different light. It was somehow Build fc animate, and it possessed great infu- — world o ence in shaping the fate of its wearel. Fp yi jf Therefore, it was not worn merely as an ornament, but as an aid in ones will no undertakings. of clear - Zenith : THE SPIRIT IN GEMS ' whole 2 A typical illustration of this senti- d infinite ment can be found in an early sevel- - shadin teenth-century book on precious stones, | subtleti by Anselmus de Boot. He speaks of the i cerning spirits in gems. God spread Eis Works S valio b Is enter into the by having good ange : | anion to guard men from dangers ane © home vw procure for them special grace. Some: "See the times, however, the spirit of evil made S hewdl himself into a spirit of light, and then H . | men placed their trust in his —s . rather than in God, the source of a) § Ser good. Such conceptions of the —_ | TENITE quality of gems have not a . ae died out in our modern age. . still believe in the efficacy of m stones; they still think that pears come sickly and lustreless and r a they can not be restored to their — beauty unless they are worn by healthy, simple girl. , Since gems were allv course, eee of the qualities of per : There were, therefore, male and 4 of High diamonds. Jean de Mandeville, gf circuits lightful liar of the Middle Ages; a ae a graphic account of the sex ° Licenses monds. \- e, they had, of v" (Continued on page 180)

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cAnd you shall hear the beautiful things IND] Who had y though Way an followen m Of the it thems er coul 1€ woul Final Se man wn into ed down Which ed. The 'Y, and rrent ~ the mine Irope n the avel- bout | How Eugene Field would have at § delighted in the wondrous adven- u- Fture that Childhood lives today! The tiny ships of imagination nts § Sail nightly forth upon the sea of fa F music, drama and the great rec- em Ford of events. They bring back | precious cargo. iow | Build for your children a radio me world of grandeur and beauty— »; | build it best with Zenith. Then «’s | Will no discord mar the delight of clear, natural radio reception. Zenith reproduces faithful, the whole range of sound, with its i | infinite combinations and tone | shadings. Zenith preserves those ; | subtleties so prized by the dis- - cerning ear. The finest things in | Tadio broadcast come into your d | home with Zenith. - See the beautiful Zenith models— A hear the amazing Zenith reception. Western United States prices slightly higher Send for illustrated folder ZENITH RADIO CORPORATION 3614 Iron Street - Chicago a eg j fCroe-RADIO World’s Largest Manufact : ‘ urers : High Grade Radio—16 models_3 different ircuits—6, 8, and 10 tubes—battery or electric —antenna or loop—$100 to $2500 Licens y i ensed only for Radio amateur, experimental and broadcast reception. RDINARILY, this modern generation scorns precedent. History is nevertheless re- peating—in a way which we find interesting and gratify- ing. Something about Fatima —its greater delicacy, its QUALITY that LIGGETT & MYERS TOBACCO CO. makes friends more skillful blending of flavors—has made it, as in other days, an outstanding favorite with the younger set. “ACE HIGH” WITH THE YOUNGER CROWD! everywhere! In the eighteenth century, a Karpen was making fur- niture. Taste and skill, developed through five genera- tions, are the heritage of Karpen furniture of today. S. KARPEN&BROS., 801 s. WABASH AVE., CHICAGO: 37TH AND BROADWAY, NEWYORK FURNIJTURE arpens® [Gift from the TROPICS OUND NOWHERE ELSE inall the world, Love’s Hawaiian FruitCake, made by Honolulu’s master bakers, is a dis- tinctive confection eloquent of Nature’s bounty in this snid-Pacifec Paradise. Pineapple, papayas, mangoes, guavas — delicate fruits perishable in their luscious ripeness—are glaced to golden particles, mixed and baked to give a rare fragrance and flavor that linger tantalizingly on the palate long after the last morsel is eaten. Baked weeks before Christmas, this Cake is seasoned and mellow. It will keep in- definitely, proving a boon to the hostess as a novel, exquisite item on any menu. May we send one or more to your friends this year, with our greeting card enclosed, conveying your Christmas or New Year's compliments? Cakes are packed air-tight in attractive lithographed metal boxes for parcels post shipment. DELIVERED ANYWHERE IN U.S.A. 2 3-41b. Cake, $3.50 postpaid 5-lb. Cake, $6.50 postpaid ULU LOVE’S BISCUIT & BREAD CO., Dept. A | HONOLULU, T. H. (2-cent postage) } or same Dept., 49 Main Street, San Francisco | Please senda HAWAIIAN FruIT CAKE, with my | compliments, to | } Name a Address. Z check | I enclose i... roo for $ amma Signed. Address } | WRITE ADDITIONAL NAMES ON MARGIN (The same extra-fine glace pineapple used in the cake may be had in small box, $1.25, or in 3-Ib. redwood box, $3.50, delivered anywhere. }

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180 Something New .. Revolutionary , . Tre- mendously Important, , from Germany~ AMOR SKIN — a Marvelous, Glandular, Skin-Rejuvenating Cream ADAME, Ma- demoiselle, and even Sir . You can now fegain, maintain and retain a youthful, healthful, beautiful, to- tally unwrinkled ap- pearance. . . You can now indulge in the lux- ury of facial rejuvena- tion without a surgical operation . . . by merely massaging with the wonderful ‘Amor Skin”’ consistently. ““Amor Skin’’ is the product of an eminent Berlin chemist and biol- ogist and has the enthu- siastic endorsement of prominent men in the medical profession in Germany and in Amer- ica . . . Its rejuvenat- ing properties are due to its being glandulated from the glands of a rare species of tortoise. We do not want to bore you with a_ medico- technical treatise on the subject . . . The Cream itself will prove most convincing, if you will put it to test . In our Offices we have authentic photographic exhibits of persons with wrinkled faces that are now wrinkled no more, because of *‘AmorSkin.”’ Also—you will find the odeur of this Cream lovelier and more intri- guing than the scent of the mostexotic perfumes. In a unique, handsome jar—reposing within a strikingly decorative box 6 Months’ Treatment, $16.50 . Double Strength, $25 (For Young People) (For Older Persons) Obtainable at fashionable Department Stores, Specialty Shops, Beauty Salons, Phar- macies—or direct from AMORSKIN CORPORATION 109 West 57th Street, New York City Telephone: Circle 7154 Intensely Interesting Booklet on Request THE DIAMOND IN LEGEnN) (Continued from page 178) “They grew together male and female and are nourished by the dew of heaven; and they engender commonly and bring forth small children that multiply and grow all the year. I have oftentimes tried the experiment that if a man keep them with a little of the rock and water them with May dew often, they shall grow every year and the small shall grow great.” Many stories were told that corrob- orated this very important fact in the physiological history of diamonds. One of the most interesting anecdotes is that of a noblewoman who inherited two large diamonds and, after a due lapse of time, found a thriving little family of diamonds in her strong-box. The lady’s joy can be imagined, as well as our own, if we could put away a pair of earrings and later find, let us say, six new ones! THE FRAILTIES OF DIAMONDS Like men and women in one respect —they could have children and preserve themselves in their posterity—, dia- monds were much like them in another. They partook of human emotions and were subject to mundane frailties. It was firmly believed that diamonds could become diseased; that, if an injury were done to them, they could take of- fense and become rough and pale or even—if the circumstances were pro- voking enough—shatter themselves to pieces. The value of a diamond de- pended sometimes upon the wearer; if he was sinful, it became worthless, al- though it may have been a most un- usual stone before. But beyond this aptitude for feeling certain definite virtues and powers peculiar to itself. These were based most naturally upon its physical quali- ties, its hardness, fire, transparency, or rarity. The hardness of the stone was reiterated by almost every writer on the subject. Nothing could shatter it. A blow from the heaviest hammer would never injure it, but the hammer itself would break. So firmly was this belief entrenched in the popular mind that, when a band of Swiss soldiers, in 1476, seized the tent of Charles the Bold, they proceeded to test the dia- monds discovered there by smashing them to bits. Because of its hardness, the diamond became the emblem of fearlessness and invincibility. It was customary for a Shah to have it placed in the hilt of his scimitar or for a Rajah to use it profusely in the decoration of his gar- ments, since then, protected by the gem, no ill-fortune could attack him. In the Middle Ages, it was set in gold and worn on the left arm to ensure the de- feat of enemies, to drive off devils, and to tame wild beasts. It was the pure, unconquerable stone—ready to help the virtuous man in his quest of the good. The High Priest of the Jews wore a dia- mond to aid him in deciding the guilt of the accused men brought before him for judgment. The innocence of any prisoner was proclaimed to the world by the brilliant flashing of the gem. Likewise, guilt was shown by the dim- ness of the diamond. The paleness of a diamond in later superstitions was an indication of infidelity. If a lover no- ticed his diamond becoming colourless, he was then certait. that his sweetheart was in love with another man. But, there was a still more intimate connection between the diamond and the greatest of our emotions, love. The Hindus had dedicated it to Venus, and, from the practice of seeking the favour of the Goddess with diamonds, arose, very probably, our custom of using them in engagement rings. Indeed, it was only when a dia ceived as a gift that it ves aaa . A purchased stone was freq h I precursor of bad luck. The qj a which brought lovers together il publicly recognized bond had : 4 affiliated trait. It was instrument) reconciling estranged couples. A wo, . who was separated from her husha and her household could by virtue « ; this stone, resume her for dy no matter how great h had been. SPIRITUAL VALUATION Although the diamond Was of ys . . ° x in temporal affairs, it was, also decay of its characteristics, of value to 4. medieval church in the expounding of the Christian doctrine, As q symbol ; brought many truths forcibly to the ». tention of the average person, For e:- ample—as the diamond gives forth , great light, so did Jesus illumine 4 depths of Hades when He descend there. As it is unconquerably hay and nothing can break it, so can » one resist the might of God. The mm itself, for the medieval scholar, ie tained a hidden meaning—Amanty j Dio—Lover of God. Hence, the di mond was especially suitable for r. ligious purposes. In the Rig Veda, th: sacred books of the Hindus, it wx approved of as an offering in the rity of worship, for then Nirvana, or eter! life, would be secured. Not only did the diamond have gp. itual value, but it also had actual phys cal value. Crushed, it formed the basi of many medicines destined for it- numerable cures. Generally, however taken as a tonic, it was conducive t longevity, to the strengthening of th body, and to the beautifying of th complexion. It was particularly recon: mended as a protection against the plague, doctors having noticed that the rich who. wore diamonds wer not so frequently attacked by dreai diseases as the poor. Sometimes, th diamond was used in afflictions of tle bladder and, occasionally, in cases 0 insanity. One had to be very certait however, that the diamond be of go0! quality, for an inferior stone would) ineffective and would cause laments LEGENDARY USES Diamond dust was more famous 3 a poison than as a medicine. It was considered very deadly, a small amour being sufficient to kill a man. Thi belief had its origin, no doubt, in the legend of the inaccessible diamoné valley mentioned before. It was logic to believe that the serpents, in crawling over the stones, could not but infec! them. Except for a few scattered critic comments, the potency of the diamond in this direction was never questioned. There are many recorded instances ol people who were poisoned, supposedly by diamonds. Benvenuto Cellini, in his “Memoirs,” tells of such an attemp' OrmMer posit, FP Cr transgressin fy octol on his life. As he was eating one day he noticed a tiny sparkling — in his food. He examined it carefull Tear aera res and was convinced that it was 4 piece © of a diamond. Knowing of the diamond, he thought ther nothing left for him to do but to I sign himself to death. A few days bie he was still alive, and, after an invest! gation, he found out that an enemy ‘ tried to poison him with diamond - but that the apothecary, m preparils it, had substituted a beryl. ais In exceptional instances, @ “ ‘ did not have to be taken interna y ‘ be fatal. The mere wearing of a -. with a red spot in it was enow cause instantaneous death. Curious; (Continued on page 190) the characte! & e Was pee age US \ ligl Gi —

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ON Was of whe Iso, becaus lue to thf Ounding of | Symbol, j Y to the x. m. For ¢. es forth ; lumine {h; descends ably hari SO Can p The nan: ‘olar, cop. Amanto ¢ , the di le for r- Veda, the the rity; or etern:! have spir. ual phys. the basis 1 for in- however ducive t 1g of th g of the ly recom ainst ! ced that ids wer ny dread mes, th ns of th cases 0! certail of goo vould | ameness mous 2 It was amount n. This , in the liamond ; logical rawling t infect critical iiamond stioned nces of posedly . in his attempt ne day, | splinter irefully a piece aracter re was to Te ” s later, nvesti- ny had d dust, paring CRS mets mont ally to - ston igh 10 jousl Gives the hair a “tiny tint” WHY NOT step out of the shadow ye ~of dull lifeless hair? Bring back those golden youth-giving lights — keep lustrous hair from growing dim— you CAN —this simple way: ye as a touch of rouge on the cheek adds much to the most flawless complexion—so does this Shampoo, by reviving and accenting those youth-giving glints,add charm to the loveliest coiffure. Dullness disappears in- stantly— hair becomes soft, silky, lustrous! Again those lovely youthful lights are there to catch the admiring eye. No mystery about Golden Glint —just the finest of Sham- poos plus a harmless and delight- ful lustre for your hair. Millions use it regularly to keep hair ra- diant,youthful. Beauty specialists will tell you of its benefits to hair and scalp. Your friends will ask you for your secret. 25¢ a pack- age at drug or toilet goods coun- ters. Or if not obtainable, write us direct! Money back if not de- lighted! J. W. Kobi Co., Dept. 1 660Rainier Ave., Seattle, Wash. Golden Glint SHAMPOO On land, on sea and in the air travel with a _ Motoluxe. os Manufactured by Lee Brothers, Ltd., Eastcastle Street, London, W. 1, England. A Motoluxe Motor Robe ensures ample warmth and protection on the journey. It is made of pure alpaca wool and has the advantage of being lighter, less bulky and more durable than the ordinary fur rug. In fifteen fur tints to tone with the interior upholstery of almost any automobile. Size 70’ x 50”. Foot muffs to match. EVERY GENUINE MOTOLUXE BEARS THIS LABEL. i Secret de . —_— Stocked by leading Department Stores. Wrine more strikingly portrays a woman’s finer sensibilities than her hands—hands that are constantly in evidence! Peggy Sage Rose Nail Enamel, one of the many hand preparations from the famous salon of Peggy Sage at 50 E. 57th St., will give your nails a glorious lustre that will last for over a week with a single application. Obtainable at leading shops including— Jay-Thorpe Park & Tilford B. Altman & Co. Lord & Taylor ‘ Fred. Loeser & Co. Bonwit Teller & Co. Saks-Fifth Avenue John Wanamaker ‘Franklin Simon & Co. Stern Brothers Peggy Sage New York THREE DOLLARS THE p. Including Plain Enamel, Tint and Remover Announcing DETECTO JUNIOR at an Amazingly Low Price 10% Now every person who has evet . wished to own De- tecto can do so! This preferred bathroom scale, formerly avail- able only at $15, has taught people a new health habit, “watch- ing your weight.” Detecto is the great- estlittle homedoctor in the world—espe- cially when reducing or building up. It’s a fascinating game—watching that honest little Detecto pointer recede pound by pound, day by day, until at last you know yourself free from ex- cess weight, that dreaded foe to beauty and health. Detecto Jr. is built with the same mechanical skill, accuracy and faithful workmanship which characterize all Detecto scales. Ask to see the Detecto line at any of the better department or hardware stores. 85 DETECTO JR. ... *10 Weighs each and every pound up to 250 pounds. DETECTO ACE. . . %15% The standard model, weighing up to 300 pounds. [JETECT() WATCHES YOUR WEIGHT If not obtainable at your dealer, order direct from THE JACOBS BROS. Co., INC. Makers also of Detecto-Lette, the Springless Baby Scale. Send for folder ‘* Precious Ounces.” SEND FOR FREE BOOKLET The Jacobs Bros. Co., Inc. V 10-15-27 Dept. 17—318 Greenwich St., N. Y. C. Please send me your free booklet on Weight, Health and Diet by Dr. F. W. Murphy. » Cert. by N.Y. State Bureau of Weights and Measures. Detecto Ace Guaranteed for five years.

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182 ; THE PURE WHITE-SANITARY-NAPKIN wt a Rex POLE “5 ite ci tf of J SP 2 fe 4d 1%, ADDED COMFORT hose they are so *o as Your poise—your composure—your charm that im- 'presses—depend to a large measure on your comfort ‘at all times. $@. With DELNAPS you have added jeomfort “because they are openigedt ‘offered by De Long. : DE LONG £38. ST. MARYS, CANADA — 2 ek a Nn se od - te eee oa on Sig Peg at % aoe wees ~ . a ~ sedate diaaaeteneiemateshtememamsame DEL NAPS BECAUSE THEY- ARE SOFTER qa De {ong product worthy the, nam DELNAPS The public buildings of Buenos Aires, the Argentine capital, are impressive in the sumptuous grandeur of their French or Italian architecture. This is the Capitol THE GAY CAPITAL OF ARGENTINI $2 Confidently © NTIL quite recently, South Amer- ica was practically an unknown land to the great tourist public of North America. One listened with polite attention to the occasional friend who came back with glowing ac- counts of that vague part of the world, of Andean grandeurs, Amazonian won- ders, and the gay, splendid cities on the other side of the equator. But, for some reason, one was never tempted by the most enthusiastic panegyrics to venture forth and see these marvels for oneself. The works of Prescott, W. H. Hudson, and Lord Bryce might be read, steamship prospectuses pored over, and itineraries actually made out. Still, when vacation time rolled round again, the usual ticket for Europe was bought, and South America was put off for another day. The vast continent that lies below the isthmus is a veritable world in it- self, and, for the insatiable globe- Sherril Schell trotter ever seeking pastures nev, provides a fascinating pleasure-grou that seldom palls, a group of countris as varied in their geographical and y. cial aspects as the nations of Europ In some Peruvian towns, for exam little effort of the imagination is r- quired to fancy oneself back in the six teenth century. In the cities of the Ar gentine, one is never allowed to for even for a moment the urge and clamu of the modern world. Rivalling Par and New York in elegance and mode nity, Buenos Aires, the capital, is: metropolis of unique individuality th makes the strongest appeal to those \ like novelty, but who also like nove that does not preclude the creatu comforts. The last ten years have witnessed marked change in the North America tourist’s attitude towards Latin Am* ica, especially as to those two grtt (Continued on page 184) The entrance to the race-track at Buenos Aires leads one into a gay and brilliant throng wit- nessing the racing events in which the Ar- gentines delight Bo gaa PB BS a i Gi ia envi cate vogi you the only nice dray few dye Any FR get Val tion big fror Bur Jus

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VOGy TINE ures new, | asure-groun F » of countris hical and y. S of Europ for exam ation is re *k in the sit 2s of the Ar. ved to forge and clamou yalling Pari -and moder: capital, is i iduality thi to those wi like novel he creatur witnessed ! h America: satin Amt: two gre 184) eater IT ae October ao, 1927 Informing you where to obtain those Lovely which so excite admira- tion and eagerness for possession and which you have so fruitlessly hunted for in the ready-to-wear shops. The Native Weavers produce them with all their genius for crea- tion, and fashion is made happy by their exclusiveness. Sold Only To Individuals. No Dealers Supplied. Write for Samples. Vermont Natives Industries Bridgewater, Vermont A New Slip Did you know that a fifteen-cent envelope of Diamond Dyes will dupli- cate any delicate tint that may be the vogue in dainty underwear? Keep your oldest lingerie, stockings too, in the shade of the hour, It’s easy if you only use a true dye. Don’t streak your nice things with synthetic tints. Dye or tint anything; dresses, or drapes. You can work wonders with a few inexpensive Diamond Dyes (true dyes). New colors right over the old. Any kind of material. FREE: Call at your druggist’s and get a free Diamond Dye Cyclopedia. Valuable Suggestions, simple direc- sa Piece-goods color samples. Or, ng illustrated book Color Craft free rom DIAMOND DYES, Dept. M9 Burlington, Vermont. . Diamond Dyes Just Dip to TINT, or Boil toDYVE Mlinery’~ Gowns and Sporkswar' 17 EAST 54% STREET NEW YORK The Peasant Motif — | is not only the central style note, but the in- spiration upon which the frock is created. Colorful as a jewel, rich in tradition and SS SS beautiful in execution = = Mn HM S Z —this fine hand work gives an individuality and distinction which is heyond imitation. This and other smart, new Sonya models may be had in silk and jersey—all the new fall colors. Write for illus- trated booklet V. “A New Growth of Hair Already” Three weeks ago Mother and I began using your we both ions and : preparation at bee have a new growth eady. ’ “od enclosing $5.00 ~ another $3.50 bottle — Special Remedy for fa ing hair and dandruff ; _ for a jar of Pine Scalp Pomade, and postage. ‘ I only wish you could _ for yourself the — ul ; improvement in MY = and your brushes ote " best we have ever usec Yours very truly, Miss JuNE KELLY, Kansas City, Mo. Realizing that no one tonic can pos- sibly relieve every scalp ailment, OGILVIE SISTERS have developed a Common Sense Preparation for every hair need. Don’t experiment! OGILVIE SIS- TERS will gladly give to the readers of VOGUE a complete analysis of hair and scalp condition entirely free. Simply fill out the Questionnaire below and attach your name and address, printed plainly. You will receive, with- out charge, a letter containing the same expert personal advice you would re- ceive in the Fifth Avenue Salon of OGILVIE SISTERS. 2. Ekaw fallnio: badly?...........2:..0i..: 3. Is your hair thin around temples ONT CARG IE os oscet ets cs oe ern eR 4. Troubled with dandruff ?......0000000... 7 — a ca} me A 2 S. 2) =] ° ce o = uo) oo =n fo) =] ° i - =a w oO ) uo) ~w 6. How often do you shampoo your ETE eeeenet rat ret Onan ace Ferree Me 7. Is your hair fine or coarse ?............ Oyduind ule ita Henna Specialists 604 Fifth Avenue, New York City 1128 Connecticut Avenue 23 Rue de la Paix Washington, D. C. Paris Villa Lanvin Avenue Edouard VII Biarritz, B. P.

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184 BELTS VELVET “HE theme is velvet,” says Fashion this fall, and many interesting variations on this theme are offered in the new Slote& Schaffer Belts of Velvet with leather combination and the very Jatest thing in buckles. A large va- riety, ranging in price from $1. to $7.50, can be seen at any store selling Slote & Schaffer belts, made by the world’s largest pro- ducers of women’s and children’s belts. 0 At the better stores every- $ HE belt illustrated is -No. 7897. imported French velvet in new fall shades with match- ing leather fronts and calfine edgings. The new metal filigree buckle adds a final note of chic. 7 sof (There is an cs. S&S } Belt for every belted model illustrated in the where... fashion magazines—nearly a thousand styles!) The Avenida Alvear is the most fashionable driveway of Buenos Aires. rival those of Paris and Madrid THE GAY CAPITAL OF ARGENTIN} countries on the east tween the two continents, proved steamship service, equals that of the best trans-Atlantic lines, should not be ignored as a con- siderable factor. At dinners, or, in fact, wherever one goes nowadays, it is not uncommon to hear people speak as flu- ently of the Avenida Alvear and the Plaza de Mayo as of the rue de la Paix and the place de Opera. There are many signs that North and South American society are forming closer ties each year; especially of the fashionable circles of New York and Buenos Aires. Until quite recently, North Americans had few opportunities for meeting distinguished Latin Ameri- cans outside of the diplomatic set in Washington, in Paris, and on the Ri- viera. The stray Argentino whom one encountered at Manhattan thé dansants in the first days of the tango was quite as much an object of coast—Brazil and Argentina. Credit for this is due to the closer commercial relations be- The houses that line this splendid avenue : (Continued from page 182) curiosity as a native of Fiji or Timbu. too. With the increasing tide of tray between the two countries, knowledy of our South American cousins has ti. come less superficial. Apparently, ; goodly number of Buenos Aires citi zens feel as much at home on Fift Avenue as on their own Avenit: Mayo and Calle Florida, and ma prominent New Yorkers settle downs comfortably and contentedly amid th: luxurious furnishings of the B. 4 Jockey Club as at the Union Leagu: As the season in New York la guishes and dies, that of Buenos Airs wakens into life. In May, the Argenti capital takes on a new brilliance. |i wealthier citizens, who have le spending the hot months at Mar ¢ Plata, the Newport of Argentine, « back again, the splendid houses in t Avenida Alvear are thrown open, ! stately boulevards are thronged wi automobiles of the latest manufactur shops display their most gorgeous att (Continued on page 186) but the im- which now true is this or Newport 4 é ] 48 48 Sherril Schell The Fine Arts Museum, seen from the terrace o of the Plaza Hotel, is one of the striking archi- tectural features of the Argentine capital

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VOGy Y TINE ji or Timbu. 9 tide of traf Ss, knowledge usins has bf pparently, af s Aires citi me on Fifth wn Avenidi » and many ettle down a lly amid th the B. 4 rion Leagu. y York lar: Suenos Air he Argentin rilliance. [i have bee at Mar & ‘gentine, a Ouses in tl n. open, ti ‘onged wit nanufactur orgeous all 186) et RES iE ND pore tg wr october 15, 1927 x 300 Black Wool Jersey Frock with bolero jacket ef- fect, detachable white Chinese damask vest, collar and cuffs. Skirt has six plaits in front, plain back and is on body lining. Above model good up to size 40 Wool Jersey $30.00 (Up to size 42) Mistctow Jersey $37.50 (Up to size 42) (Large sizes $5.00 extra) Colors: Mistglow Jersey, pastel shades of blue, yellow, white, pink, lan, gray, green. Colors: Wool Jersey, navy, black, rosewood, beaver, tan, gray, old blue, powder blue. Samples and catalogue on request Originated and manufactured by the BROMLEY-SHEPARD COMPANY uc. Al Lowell, Mass. For over twenty years creators and makers of individual clothes for women. 488 Boylston Street ...... Boston, Mass. 489 Fifth Avenue, Office 609 . New York City Factory and Main Office Lowell, Mass. n corsets-assured service Stooping, bending, sitting— every movement of the body is a challenge to the service-quality of the elastic. In America’s finest corsets, the supreme service-qual- ity of Kenlastic is the answer. Discriminating women look for the mark that identifies this supe- tior fabric—a wavy blue line in- side the corset, at top and bottom. Kenlasti¢ ALG US. PAT. OFF - the life of fine corsets Fe i Copyrighted 1927, James R. Kendrick Co., Inc., Philadelphia — New York THE Thistle lie Oxford A Foster CAMPUS Shoe Produced in Black or Brown Lizard Calf at £12 5° in Brown Suede or Crey Buckskin >14 TG Joster & Company Chicago - Evanston - Kansas City OUR nails are an index-to your character. One glance at them tells others how fas- tidious you are. When you use ALABASTRINE, the cuticle is always smooth-—never _ thick- ened or rough, with no disfigur- ing, uncomfortable hangnails. Your nails bear the closest scru- tiny, for an ALABASTRINE manicure beautifies the loveliest fingertips! And it is so easy to use—no acid, scissors or stick. Just dip a piece of linen in ALABAS- TRINE, wetting thoroughly. With thumbnail covered with the linen, gently mould the cuti- cle. That is all there is to it—a perfect manicure results! ALABASTRINE is sold at all the better shops; or, mailed direct on receipt of 75c. ALABASTRINE is made by the famous Beecham’s Labora- tory, specialists for 30 years in exquisite toilet preparations, among them the noted Lady Teasel products. Have you tried the famous Lady Teasel Apricot Cream? It builds tissue, turning unlovely hollows into lovely rounded contours. A real skin food. Small jar $1.00. Send for the free circular describing this and other Lady Teasel aids to beauty BEECHAM’S LABORATORY Oscawana-on-Hudson NEW YORK Dept. A

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Sherril Schell The Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires is an opera-house famous the world over, not only for the beauty of its architecture, but also for the excellence of the performances given there They Wall Look SLENDERER Instantaneously in the THE GAY CAPITAL OF ARGENTINH pag (Continued from page 184) Bare rubber as ‘:Davitex’’ Rub- used in ordin- berized Fabricis ary rubber cor- used in the new sets and girdles Madame'*X”— —may irritate norubber touch- he skin. he skin. : 5 . : : pina eisoingn without its equal in the New World don or from Bond _ Street tailis “TT F : and easily challenges comparison with whom they have imported. Betwe GUARANTEED: Does your diaphragm bulge? any in Europe. It is a magnificent the acts, in the brocade and cryst: Do not confuse this new creation with former rub- ber garments. It is differ- ent—guaranteed : Every Madame ‘‘X’’ Com- bination is warranted to be expertly made of quality materials, and isguaranteed against splitting or tearing. Any garment failing to live New MADAME X COMBINATION “Woman's beauty of form de- pends on five slender curves” The special 12%” Davitex rub- berized fabric Inner Belt of the Madame X distributes the flesh evenly—gives an instantly im- proved carriage and gradually tantalizing importations, theatres, caba- rets and hotel foyers are thronged with smart, vivacious crowds, the Opera is in swing, and society flutters eagerly into all the manifold activities dear to its heart the world over. THE SEASON OPENS The Buenos Aires season may be said to commence with the opening of the Teatro Colon. This great theatre is building of an architecture and set- ting that surpass the Metropolitan and all other American opera-houses. Placed in a bower of tropic foliage, one of its sides facing a beautiful plaza with no shops disfiguring its facade, it presents a truly imposing appearance—it is an edifice worthy of being called a temple of music. The interior is even more im- pressive. One walks through the main entrance that faces the Plaza Lavalle, Argentina is usually of the brillia brunette type with glossy black hui and flashing eyes and teeth. As a ce brated French writer once said, thy are the only women whose beauty outshines the jewels they wear, “Ni of a loveliness that pearls enhan: but of a radiance that is best set of by emeralds and diamonds.” Nor x the men laggards in the wake ¢ fashion. The jeunesse dorée of Buen Aires buy their clothes either in Lo hung promenade room, it woul be difficult to find a smarter group people or, one might say, a more phisticated-looking one. There is ® suggestion whatsoever of the cruij that is supposed to be the. mark of nt civilizations. One might easily imagit oneself in the Teatro Real of Made on a great night when Their Majests are gracing the opera with their pr DI G up to this guarantee may es ence, be returned and price paid the stomach and abdomen be up a splendid staircase lined with who | refunded. Sam Davis Cor- 4 : statues, and into the great auditorium. OPERA IN ARGENTINE ; set Co. Inc. come slimmer and slimmer. Those who own boxes step directly into : ee fi them from their motors, and there is So much for the audience and p : : . a striking absence of confusion in get- the performances at the Colon? Am) Amid | _. your hips and back You must sce it, yes, try it on, ting in ot out of one’s peaniaeniin, faire visitors to Buenos Aires #7 atmosp prominent? The Madame X to realize what it means to your a confusion that is woefully charac- often very much surprised to discor' the mo teristic of opera going in many of our that many of their favourites, who i side of gently massages away the excess fat—you don't feel it, you don’t realize it, but it tends to reduce beauty curves. Be the first to see it — at your favorite corsetiére. Be the first in your set to wear it. cities. The Colon on a gala occasion is a dazzling spectacle, for every prominent they had seen in opera only 3 * weeks before in New York or Chics! are singing here. The fact is, that, 2! age Smok with every move you make. You Or if you wish, send for the little Argentine family is in attendance, _ the season has ended at the peng i To look as trim from behind as you booklet that tells all about the bedecked in all the sumptuousness tan and the Auditorium, not 4°’ %® a ° ° ° ° * d y (0 the mos do from the front. new Madame X, priced at $7.50 suitable to _ an a hogy a — a a cael 4 amen! Are your thighs too heavy? to $12.50. The display o jewels rivals that 0 this far-flung capital to "eat ers’ art = the Metropolitan in pre-War days, and with new laurels and, it must De 20" ae mond 3 Here is a garment that reaches M i] h C the men and women are as correctly to have their pockets refilled. Cart ale Daten ond theater h Wail the Coupon . . . an togt teil you visi Own and slenderizes the entire turned out as the frequenters of the achieved some of his greatest "IY" Be torso. The rubber insert takes —at Once! Paris Opera or Covent Garden. Ar- here for fees double those on Sora . . . eke . ‘an sae ee . y ahi slsewhere. Martinelll, 2 Be ork, | in the flesh while it gently Ee ee ee eee gentine women are famous throughout able to get elsewhere. A ee s > a ad a TT; Muzio, 1 & establis! massages. Sam Davis Corser Co., Inc. Europe for their beauty and for their Tita Ruffo, Fleta, Bori, aly af - Lis 122-124 Fifth Ave.. New York Ci clothes. They patronize the best mo- d’Arle, Barrientos, to name om ‘i Senuing Your bust? You need no 5 an ere ey distes of Paris and keep watch of the are as well known to Argentine” Seat vi brassiere when you wear the new | Send me your booklet ‘‘Slenderness for changes in fashions with as sharp American opera goers. It is 4 om 4 vill Ar Madame X. This is brassiere, Sale about the new Madame ‘‘X an eye as any mondaine of la ville saying in Buenos Aires that ot ; Ms b sirdle and corsette all in one | Combination. lumiére. As a rule, their taste in jewel- new artists are discovered aM ‘ equest, 5 S Lie i | Die lery is excellent, and they have the New York and London bec MN Really here is a miracie-gar- er See aren rare gift of wearing a great deal with- afterwards. This was certainly 6 Es ment that defies description— SN 5 scsensceaddlgpinaitigniiipeeashacrsrecnaciaionis out making it seem overdone. The (Continued on page 18 pthnencbe n

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iU} Baer | — Ss > & October 15, 1927 —_ a Old Style Black | Fruit Cake HAT black, well-fruited, moist fruit cake that most of us, as youngsters, grew up to know as the real, genuine, honest-to-goodness Fruit Cake. Delicious. Keeps indefinitely. “The last word” at a bridge luncheon or a tea. If your caterer or grocer hasn’tit, send $1.50 for one-pound cake. $2.75 for two pound in hand- some box. Delivered by parcel post. CZ od BEECH-NUT PACKING COMPANY Distributors Dept. A-10 1237 E, Main Street Rochester, N, Y, For DISCRIMINATING PEOPLE Sy by the experienced advice and suggestions of men who know gentlemen’s tastes, you will find shopping here for presents and prizes a real enjoyment. Amid unique surroundings and refined atmosphere you can select with leisure the most correct and authentic wares this side of the Atlantic. Imported Smokers’ Accessories €: You are assured always of the mostdistinguished and correct British made smok- ers’ articles and other un- usual importations when you visit our display room. If you live outside of New York, ee will find our establishment a place of genuine interest on your Next visit to the Metropo- lis. An illustrated folder will be mailed upon request, Fine specimen of old “Cigar Store Indian” which now stands in front of Six East Forty-fifth St. MM IMPORTING CO. § East 45th Street _ Dept. Y New York .-.an exquisite creation in black enamel, carved jem jade and diamonds—herald- ing the vogue for the coming season. Designed and made in our own shop, this dainty, exclusive piece is but one of many fashioned in the Brand-Chatillon mode. There is, for example, an original selec- tion in rings, brooches, lorgnettes, bracelets and other jewelry ready for your inspection. You will find a friendly, personal service that is likewise distinctive. BRAND ~ CHALELLON Jewelers and Silversmiths 725 Fifth Avenue - New York City Between 56th and 57th Streets cw Brooklyn: Wm. Wise & Son, Inc. 440 Fulton Street a rt ° Place del'Opéra Those subtle attributes of the Parisian Opera-oer... eleZance, Sracious dignity, poise ...are reduced in essence to the most Parisian of all perfumes, Place de l’Opera, by Lionceau, master perfumer of Paris. Its strictly French origin is as- sured you by the guarantee in every package. “Made, bottled, boxed and PARIFUMS - LIONCI ANU \ Nii () i) | = Ka Aaltinntnnt, Imm mil A annine THN } PARIS 76 Champs Elyséés NEW YORK 565 Fifth Avenue Keep the Life, Lustre... the Youth of Your Hdair! This new, greaseless Brilliantine and curl- ing fluid combined brings amazing results! OK ORE than justabrillian- tine or curling fluid. Original—a new product in a new package. An amazing greaseless vegetable brillian- tine that marks an advance in smart grooming and care of the hair. It sets and holds the wave, keeps elusive strands in place ...gives your coiffure luxuri- ant life and radiant youthful lustre. And more... Marcelle Brilliantinede France feeds the hair... protects it from de- structive | ain and dullness. It restores the life baked away in permanent waving—orfrom the heat of the curling iron. A hair food ...a fluid toset and keep the wave. ..agreaseless, dainty, feminine brilliantine. In a pack- age with an atomizer top. Spray it...evenly and accu- rately... directly on your hair, hand,comb or brush, as you prefer. It will not streak or mat. Like a million bottled sunbeams, the tiny atoms impart lasting radiance. At leading toilet requisite counters. Sent direct, peoeete if your dealer , can not supply you. With the atom- izer top complete $1.50. Refills 75c (the atomizer top can be used again and again). If you order direct, send the name of your favorite store. rilliantine dz Jraance with the atomizer top by Beggs . . . Marcelle Building 1735-1753 N. Western Ave., Chicago

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Now! a marvelously youthful skin .. through OSMOSIS Nature’s own way of renewal T°? retain in maturity the firm con- tours and fresh, unlined skin of youth! This, the heart’s desire of every woman, has at last become possible. And safely, simply, naturally; without surgery, without messy, pore-clogging clays and grease creams. Years of research by distinguished skin specialists have resulted in the Loughney Treatment. Hundreds of prominent society women have already tried it and marvelled at the results. Three of the leading fashion magazines have devoted pages to enthusiastic dis cussion of it. Give yourself this wonderful treatment— right ir. your own home The Loughney Treatment is simplic- ity itself. You can apply it right in your own room, without the aid of a beauti- cian. Just two preparations—Dulci- derma, a fragrant milky liquid, and Osmotique, a delightful cream—both greaseless, used at night before retiring. These have nothing in common with the ordinary beauty preparations which vainly attempt to work from the out- side. Osmotique and Dulciderma work through all the layers of the skin and the tissues beneath. Through a natural process, called osmosis, they draw the life-giving blood right up to the sur- face. And your own renewed circulation re-creates your beauty from within. You can feel your skin awaken im- mediately The moment you apply them you can actually feel your skin glow with new life, as all the cells and veins of the deeper skin respond to their gentle stimulation and the blood pulses up- ward to nourish the surface. All night long this wholesome refreshing process continues while the skin rests, aiding nature to rebuild and restore beauty. Even after one application you can see a difference. Your skin has a soft, natural glow of health. Lines are fainter. Sagging muscles have begun to tighten. The pores, cleansed and revitalized, have contracted noticeably. Presently the contours lift Of course you will enjoy continuing the treatments—so daintily and quickly applied—and so refreshing! A little time passes—you will be surprised how little, for nature works quickly once her vital processes are given a fair chance —-and then one day you can plainly see that the contours of your face have changed. The sagged muscles have tightened with returning strength, and the little cells beneath the surface are now alive again, rounded as they should be. Must satisfy you—or no cost No matter what the condition of your skin, no matter what other methods you have used, give this splendid treatment a trial. It will help you—it must help you, or it won't cost you a penny. Follow directions faithfully for ten days and then, if you do not see a de- cided improvement—if you are not eager to continue the treatment—send back the unused portion, and every penny of your money will be refunded at once. Don’t delay. Write us at once. Send no money—simply pay the postman on delivery. Fill out coupon and mail TO- DAY to R. A. Loughney Co., Dept. 310, 79 Madison Ave., New Yorb City. R. A. Loughney Co., Dept. 3/0, 79 Madison Ave., New York City. I accept your offer. Please send me the Loughney treatment (a jar of Osmotique and a bottle of Dulciderma). I will deposit with the postman the full price of $2.00 plus a few cents postage for everything, with the understanding that if I am not delighted with results I may return the unused portion of the treatment in ten days and you will promptly refund my money. sh itspidom ooh soho nah seaeemanapeetagneb Taine CREO eee Te eT I as hei VOGUE THE GAY CAPITAL OF ARGENT]yj (Continued from page 186) Tetrazzini and Jan Kubelik. The Por- tenos, as the natives of the Argentine are called, are a very critical and in- dependent folk, and many a singer who has found favour in Milan and Paris has failed to please their exacting taste. “No doubt, a singer of reputa- tion,’ one sometimes hears them say, “but hardly up to Buenos Aires stand- ards.” While it can not be said that many of the operas at the Colon are produced with the care bestowed upon them by our own Gatti-Cassaza, they compare very well with the best Eu- ropean performances. THE DRAMA IN BUENOS AIRES Another favourite gathering place of society, especially of its intelligentsia, is the beautiful Cervantes Theatre, where plays by native Argentino and European authors are performed in ac- cordance with the best modern ideas. The most prominent Spanish actors, after their season at home, finish out the year at the Cervantes. The city also supports French and Italian companies for long seasons. The amazing cos- mopolitanism of Buenos Aires was strikingly evidenced a few years ago when the performances of “The Merry Widow” were given simultaneously in Spanish, Italian, French, and English. Besides the Colon and the Cervantes, there are several other large theatres, concert and music-halls, cabarets, a skating-rink, and a multitudinous array of motion-picture houses. The cinema has completely captured the public, and the most popular pictures are those that come by way of the New York and Hollywood studies, especially the ones that portray the Wild West and the Great White Way. Dancing is one of the chief delights of the Porteno—that is to say, the young Porteno, for the middle-aged of Argentina have never succumbed to the mania that has possessed their contem- poraries elsewhere. The Argentinos rival their American cousins in terp- sichorean proficiency and easily out- class them (as might be supposed) in their own dances, notably the tango. “Jazz” is heard everywhere, and fox- trotting is the rage, although the Ar- gentine version of it would probably seem rather tame to one of our débu- tantes. South American dowagers would be horrified at what a certain English writer has described as “Amer- ican ball room antics” and would swoon at the thought of their importation. RACING A SOCIAL INSTITUTION But racing is the great social insti- tution of Buenos Aires. The Pres- ident, the members of the Cabinet, the admirals and generals, the multi-mil- lionaires and their families—in fact, every one who has any pretensions whatsoever makes it a rule to be in attendance at all of the big races. The famous Hipdédromo Argentino is owned by the Jockey Club, which is cele- brated the world over for its wealth and lavishness. The initiation fee of this institution is four thousand dol- lars, and its annual dues are the equiv - alent of the yearly income of many an American family. No club-house in the States or in Europe is more elegantly appointed. The furnishings are a little too ornate for Anglo-Saxon taste, per- haps, but somehow strike the right note in this resplendent metropolis. The income of the Jockey Club is so large, it is said, that it is embarrassing to its members. How to spend it has been the question of many an agitated meet- ing. Gorgeous entertainments and char- ities dispose of only part of it. Hav- ing built one club-house of sumpt grandeur, they are thinking of buildne an Aladdin’s palace that will make t present one pale into insignificance Al of the big races are under the dire i of the Jockey. Club, and the ror “4 ceipts, bets, and so forth pasg thro " its hands. Not only does the pr its influence to promote sports fa kinds, but it has done much to ve the interests of horse breeding through out the republic. Important races run every Sunday and feast-day Ther is nothing in Europe that quite equal these races as a spectacle, not even > cepting Ascot or Goodwood. Onl ; small proportion of the crowd is wh up of women, but what they lack in quantity they make up in quality— at least, in the matter of clothes, Thei hats and gowns rival those seen m Longchamp, although there js a mark. ed absence of the freakish attir affected by some women who ie quent the French race-course. Every one—men, women. and children—bets on the races, and, when the horses pass the winning-post, the crowd goes mad with excitement. The men in the huge grand-stand leap on the benches, shouting and throwing their hats into the air, and the bedlam continues yp. til the next race is run. AFTER THE RACES The races begin at noon and ar over a little after three o'clock, when the vivacious crowd steps into its motors for a drive through broad Sarmiento Avenue in Palermo Park. Here, the vehicles are often eight rows deep, the procession moving so slowly that the occupants have the opportunity to chat and actually visit with thos around ihem. The gay cavalcade passes and repasses the palm- bordered driveway, most of the people remain- ing until long after sundown, when the time comes to dress for dinner or ball. After the Hipdédromo, Tigre, some- times called the Henley -of the -Ar- gentine, is the best-liked playground of the Portenos. This is the fashionable boating resort situated at the point where the river Tigre flows into la Plata, an enchanting and picturesque spot that reminds one in many of its phases of Richmond or Henley on the Thames. The river is dotted over with small islands covered with flowering shrubs, gardens, and charming vine- clad cottages. The river banks are ot- cupied by the great boat-clubs belong- ing to the various nationalities that make up the population of Buenos Aires. The most magnificent is the Tigre Club, the membership of which is made up of the most fashionable families, a club that is the last word in every kind of modern luxury. It has been said that the people who fre- quent this resort are infinitely mor interested in the roulette table and bat- carat than in the manly sports that the other less gorgeous club-houses represent. There are many pretty hotels and restaurants where one may sip M¢ native wines while listening to the strains of tango and “jazz.” The river on a Sunday is crowded with wale craft of many kinds, canoes, motor launches, and motor-boats. Crews are practising for the regattas that take place from time to time, and the scene altogether is one of the greatest anima- tion. Here, one may dine in one 0 gay restaurants or have a delightful @ fresco meal overlooking the river, ¥ its splendid view. rl There is no better place than Tigre to partake of those viands (Continued on page 190) SEE SA Octob ——- uaazrtuauennaennenaerman REDU arms, le PREI AND RK. W strong and shape 1 ducing ther They fit lik under any | detection, ° ference in once, Can b reduce whil during the then extra Support. Send Ay Calf m Write for Special At $3.75, Pa: money ord pay postm: Write for Dr. 389 Philadelphi Washingtor icago: Los Angele EMM

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eir ire ty — SS October 15, 1927 NLY real cotton—and that of finest grade— has the proper qualities to make perfect sani- tary napkins. Hospitals and doctors have never accepted a substitute for cotton and for the same reason there is no substitute that is satis- factory in sanitary napkins. Venus Sanitary Napkins are made of finest surgi- cal cotton in softly knitted covers (not harsh gauze). They are an assurance of real comfort and perfect protection. Most department stores and many drug stores sell them. VENUS CORPORATION, 1170 Broadway, New York 662 No. Michigan Ave., at Erie St. A delightful profusion of cushions, comforters, blankets, couch throws, chaise longue covers, silken sheets, bed jackets, all the dainty details of boudoir and bed, draws distinguished patrons to the Carlin shops. Your personal visit will prove interesting and worth while. And in the matter of gifts, these lovely Shops present the happiestimaginable solution fora perennial problem. Whether you arein search of a remembrance for a birthday or an engage- ment, or suggestions for the trousseau, or of gifts for your en- tire Christmas list, you can quickly and easily find what you want—distinction combined with charm and usefulness. Attractive display of accessories for travelling by Rail, Motor, Steamer or Yacht. CATALOG ON REQUEST Carlfn Cmforts tne CHICAGO NEW YORK 528 Madison Ave., at 54th St. REDUCE YOUR FLESH arms, legs, bust or entire body with DR. WALTER’S Rubber Garments Y garments have been worn by men and women for 25 years. They are inval- uable to those suffer- ing from rheumatism. Reducing Corset: Cream colored rubber. Laced back, clasp front. Made to your measure, $12.00 Chin Reducer . . 2.50 Neck & Chin . . 3.50 GRAYBAR BUILDING, VOGUE is not merely an attractive maga- zine; Vogue is a great institution of helpfulness. Its efficient service departments are always at your disposal, and you are cordially in- vited to make use of them. Address THE INFORMATION EDITORS OF VOGUE LEXINGTON AT 43RD NEW YORK CITY SS a PRETTY ANKLES $5.75 B 4nD CAIVES perpair R. WALTER'S — Special t strong Ankle Bands will support ind shape the ankle and hi a yoy rdhng calf while re They fit like a glove. c a) . Can be worn /, mier any Kind of hose without 3 ; - ection. You can note the dif- .¥ erence in shape of ankle at =. Can be worn at night and educe while you sleep, or ‘‘Les Resultats Sont Absolument Merveilleux’’ You can preserve or regain a youthfully slender figure easily through this really de- lightfuland simple treatment. Removes super- fluous flesh without violent exercise, dieting or dangerous drugs. Simply a course of luxuri- ous perfumed baths taken in your own home. Popular among French leaders of fashion. Introduced to America by a woman of social prominence. For sale by druggists, depart- ment stores, hairdressers, beauty special- ists, etc. If your dealer does not carry Clarks Thinning Salt, we will gladly supply you direct. during the day derivi then extra benefit of the pond a benefit of the Send Ankle and Calf measure Write for Dr W: { . Walter’ spectal Ankle Bands for ind = % check or er (no e: Pay postman, oe Write for booklet to : Dr. Jeanne B. Walter 89 Fifth Avenue, New York Near 36th Street, Suite 605 years of Zoccess and reliability (Clarks Thinning Salt) ¥ : SEL AMAIGRISSANT CLARKS ‘* nent physicians. Gives ward, converging Relieves pain. Pink Repp. $1.50 Pink Silk Pink Tussah iG " 1.50. He 2.00 Lace— 2.50 a Pussywillow.... 3.50 it, write us direct J2UPLIFT ATEST invention of Mme. Poix. Approved by promi- support Produces a stylish and perfect contour. Net Lined. If your dealer does not carrv weil: 2 ee THE ORIENT CO., North Wales, Pa. snngton: . Gibson Co., I ry Macy, Park & Til- : 3 Oy 9 a n sale at such stores as Altman, Stern, Gimbel, Macy, Par i ago: , nc or7 G Street, N-W; ford’ in New York; Jordan Marsh & Co., Boston; Marshall Field & Los A aes Buck & Rayner Stores Co., Chicago; Strawbridge & Clothier, and Evans, Philadelphia; ngeles: + Adele Millar, 1005 Brack Shops Haile Bros. Co., The May Co., Cleveland; Joseph Horne Co., Pittsburgh; mn: D. H. Holmes Co., New Orleans; S. Kann Sons Co., Washington. SAMPLE sufficient for a treatment 10c. Interesting booklet “The Charming Figure” sent freeon request. © 7b \', Fas = ©) D. Gam b olen 96 Seventh Ave., Brooklyn, N. Y

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190 eA Lovely Foot-Dress You will, of course, want Shuglovs immediately. Your favorite shop is showing them, in Nude, Gray, Brown and Black, with two types of heels, the Universal for mili- tary, military high and spiked heel—the Cuban for the lower and flatter heels. $5.00 a pair Shuglov is made of lightest rubber, wash- able inside and out. The trim, decorative top is worn up or down with equal smartness. THE MILLER RUBBER COMPANY of N. Y. AKRON, OHIO for Bad Weather Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. (Pronounced Shoe-Glove) The new thing in footwear protection for women O longer is the smart woman content to cover dainty shoes and trim ankles by the unsightly methods of yesterday—even though they brought protection. Thanks to Shuglov, it is no longer necessary. For this new, featherweight foot dress really adds a distinct style note to the bad-weather ensemble—and keeps delicate shoes and stockings im- maculate. Winter will come—rain will continue to bring splashing heels and soles—and what more dis- tressing than to see one’s newest shoes ruined in a single wearing? True, up to now, women have preferred the evil to the remedy— but the coming of Shuglovs has changed all that. You no longer worry, either of weather or style— for the trim foot that wears Shu- glov is clad with an eye to both. You will see Shuglov on the smartest feet of America’s smart- est streets. Their feather light- ness... their becoming and har- monizing colors ... have brought to Shuglov that happy and spon- taneous recognition that the clever American woman accords only those things that are really deserving. VOGUE THE DIAMOND IN LEGENp (Continued from page 180) diamond dust was recommended as an antidote against poison. A diamond was even able to search out poison, for, in the presence of it, the diamond would begin to grow moist. So far, diamonds in general have been considered, not the individual stones. In actuality, it is the largest, the most perfect stone that has aroused the greatest interest, since kings, emper- ors, and queens alone could afford to own it. Such stones as the Kohi-noor, the Hope, and the Orloff have come to be invested with distinct personalities. One is awed at the mention of these unique gems. But they fade into in- significance when the legendary sto emerge from the past. Then one’s imag ination is truly thrilled. Even the te est _Stone in existence to-day pres trivial as compared with the great diamond of legendary fame. Near th tree of knowledge where Buddha - ceived his supreme revelation of the truth, stood a diamond throne oH from a single diamond! Its circumfer. ence was one hundred feet, and jts foundaions were at the centre of things. When the earth passed into its present imperfect stage, it was hidden from sight. But, in a future, better state, man will view it again, FRANCES LEVINE THE GAY CAPITAL OF ARGENTINE (Continued from page 188) to the heart of the Argentine gourmet, some of these dishes only to be had in South America, such as pejére, mar del Plata, a delicious fish from the Platte River, somewhat resembling the best sole, fried in a light batter and served hot and dry, and puchero, a Spanish dish made of chicken, ham, rice, some pieces of corn-cob, pumpkin, beans, and several other things im- possible to detect. And then one may have frog’s legs that are said to be even more palatable than those of Paris, or, if one is really sporting and wants to try something out of the ordinary, there is armadillo, called “mulita,” that does not taste unlike chicken. With these dishes, one may drink an ambrosian cup made of the white wine of Men- doza, which contains also the juices of peaches, pineapple, and oranges. To those who are staying at El Tigre only for tea, maté, the Paraguayan tea, a beverage that is drunk all over South America, is appealing. This is served in a gourd prettily decorated in fancy designs and sipped through a slender tube, called ‘“bombilla.” Fashionable Portenos are inclined to scorn maté and are seldom seen drink- ing it in public places, but “tea feeve o'clock” is an established institution, Harrods, the great English shop, is thronged every afternoon with Portenos who imbibe tea and devour muffins and crumpets, apparently with all the sat- isfaction of Britishers. The English, who play an important part in the economic life of the country, have left their impress on Argentine society, es- pecially in the realm of sports. All of the young people play tennis and many golf. The latter game is making rapid progress everywhere. The Argentine Golf Club has a large membership, and, although one of the newest, it is one of the most wealthy. Excellent links are to be found also at San Martin, Hurl- ingham, Fisherton, Cordoba, and Mar del Plata. CONCERNING PAPER-BOKXES (Continued from page 176) gross—three for a farthing? But this is the case in respect to the smallest ointment boxes met with at the drug- gist’s. The veritable pill-boxes, the sight of which has caused so many rueful countenances, have pretty neatly got beyond the range of chip and scale- board; they are now more frequently made of pasteboard, and it is difficult to say which is more to be admired— the neatness with which they are made or the cheap price at which they a sold. : A white pasteboard pill-box, with 4 nicely fitting cover and a pink lining, pretty, symmetrical, and even strong, and that such boxes can be sold at 6. or 8 d. a gross—nay, that competition is bringing down the price to even * than this for the smallest kind—'s ' marvel. ; ; Some pill-boxes occupyimg 4 = dignified position in the drugs windows are elaborately wrought; ti box and its lid are “flush,” by carpenters would term it—that is, 4) are of equal diameter. ANDREW SIBBALD glass itself, and all for 3%4 d. a dozen. Its destiny is to be filled with comfits or confectionery, and then to be sold complete for 1 d., or perhaps 2 d. To those who have had no opportu- nity of testing the greatness of the manu- facture of small things, there is some- thing about pill-boxes even yet more curious; they are cheaper by a wide interval than any of the square boxes (except Congreve boxes, which are the poorest of the poor), and yet there is really more manufacture in them, more of the appliances of mechanical skill. There is a veteran pill-box maker —the king of the craft, we believe, in England—residing not so very far from the Artillery Ground at Finsbury, London. In his rambling, old-fashioned workshops, with his score or so of as- sistants, he makes by millions the neat little pasteboard boxes for pills and the cheap wood or chip boxes for wafers, ointments, and other minor purposes. Is it not a striking fact that chip boxes, each requiring the work of eleven persons, can be sold at 1 s. a Octod: H ma lamb 1s when de “Beadec longer”. ing then The \ knows n pletes it fabrics, upan ur not only bad tast yet dest

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October ‘ie TO27 Bouffant dresses for the evening are very good this year . but it’s a new and very subtle bouffancy. ...- Can you do it? H FATALLY easy it is to run off with a tag-end of infor- mation—and ditch your chic for the season! ... “Persian lamb is smart”—but on what? “Velvet is a furore”—but when does one wear it? “Patou blue is good”—but is it blue? “Beaded dresses are worn”—but what kind? “Skirts are longer”—but are they any longer than ladies have been wear- ing them for the past year? The woman who studies Vogue never makes mistakes; she knows not only half the truth, but the other half that com- pletes it. She has all the information there is on colours, fabrics, lines, combinations, accessories, occasions. She builds upan underlying philosophy that teaches her what to avoid— not only those things that are last year’s, and those that are bad taste, but those that are this year’s and in perfect taste, yet destined for a meteoric popularity that defeats itself.

A Little Knowledge .... is a dangerous thing! The woman who studies Vogue learns to know herself— her good points, her limitations, the preferences she can afford to indulge and those she must ruthlessly suppress if she isn’t to look old-fashioned, fussy, out of the smooth new modern picture. She learns a hundred little tricks of how to plan, how to combine—tricks of wearing things she has—of dating them forward by means of the latest accessories. She finds addresses of little shops where individual things are made; she hears of marvellous new ways to keep her face, her hair, her hands, her figure as lovely as her lovely clothes. With all this information she can plan every dollar of her clothes-investment so that it brings hera dollar’s chic, adollar’s pleasure, a dollar’s gain in her reputation for knowing clothes. ... She joins the magic circle of women who are consulted— envied—copied—because they seem never to go wrong.... And what does it all cost? Just eight little dollars for the initiation fee— a two-years’ subscription to Vogue! 2 years lis) of Vogue $8 The best subscription offer now made on Vogue

Bought singly, at 35 cents a copy, these 48 issues would cost you $16.80. Through this offer you get them for $8. A saving of $8.80

Vocur, Graysar Bldg., Lexington at 43rd, New York City CO Enclosed find $8.00 for TWO YEARS (48 issues) of Vogue C] Enclosed find $6.00 for ONE YEAR (24 issues) of Vogue

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THR ee ee am ee Keee | fi | | CADILLAC ’ LASALLE ’ BUICK ’ CHEVROLET ’ OAKLAND 7 PONTIAC ’ OLDSMOBILE HEN the salesman representing a should hear. Once learn about Fisher Bodies— General Motors car visits you, he abouttheir safety construction, their greater val- comes armed with facts of unmistakable inter- ue, comfort, beauty—and you will surely choose ~ est—facts which you should know before you a General Motors car which bears the emblem 7 select a motor car. He will tell you about the “Body by Fisher”. General Motors Corporation greater value and satisfaction of Body by Fisher has just announced new cars of incomparable —theallimportant story ofengineeringandman- _ beauty, performance, comfort and durability— ufacturing leadership which every car owner each offering the advantage of Body by Fishet. Roof—In every Fisher Body PlateGlass—Crystal plate—or thick CompositeConstruc- VV Windshield—The Fisher Vision-and- strength is built into the roof window glass—is mever used in Fisher tion — Affording flexi- Ventilating windshield affords an unobstructed construction by a lattice work of Bodies. The diamond-like polish of bility, durability, and view through a single pane of plate glass, slats and bows, covered with the genuine plate glass used in every greater strength. The which may be raised or lowered vertically with durable, weather-resisting and Body by Fisher affords perfect clarity wood reinforces the one hand while the car is in motion. This type sound-reducing material, which of vision—another highly desirable steel, and the steel of windshield assures perfect ventilation and eliminates “‘drumming’’ noise. safety feature of every Fisher body. reinforces the wood. complete protection in every kind of weather. FISHER BODIESM GENERAL M O TO S — “x —~, dy co p. Cy. a ENS } i ; Snow A THE CONDE NAST PRESS GREENWIC b

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