Vogue 1925-10-15: Vol 66 Iss 8

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Sara Cfashiona (The Conpé NAst PUuBLICATIONs Ine.

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ERCE Dual-Valve SIX , Open Cars $5250, Closed Cars $7000, at Buffalo Government Tax Additional

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October 15, 1925 r | TIFFANY & GO, JEWELERS DEEP-ROOTED STANDARDS INQUIRIES INVITED Trt AVENUE & Of = STREET New YORK

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YOUTH WILL BE SERVED AND SERVED BEST WITH MADELON JR. OUTH must be young, but in this smart coat (right) it will never appear im- mature. Its straight line swing, its collar of caracul and its method of wren j the sleeve with a band of self material, make it a smart coat indeed. In Grackle- head, Mohawk and Woodrose. The sizes 13, 15 and 17 and the price $39.50. (© HIS slight young person (left) is un- consciously expressing the demure so- phistication that belongs to youth, aided and abetted by her Madelon coat of Bloomana in slim belted fashion. The collar and cuffs are natural fox and the colors Gracklehead, Peony and Mohawk. Sizes 13, 15 and 17, The price $39.50. ; i if i, ; ee EA”’, someone remarked, *‘is so con- stant and so kind’’, but even its calm- ing influence is surpassed by the serene satisfaction of being well costumed. The demoiselle standing has a lovely frock, with velvet banded rippling front repeat- ing the trim on the sleeve. Green, Grackle- head, and Cuckoo are the colors. 13, 15 and 17 the sizes, and $25 the price. @y(ADELON takes a simple style and with a few deft touches achieves the miracle! The Reppsheen frock has uakerette capes which drape smartly over the sleeves; and collar, caf and belt are trimmed with suede. In combinations of Navy and Red, Navy and Green, Navy and Grey, Cocoa and Brown. The sizes are 13, 15 and 17 and the price $25. © Madelon Modes, Inc., 1925 MODES IN YOUTHFUL SIZES SHOPPING LIST OF MADELON JUNIOR SHOPS HESE shops have co-ordinated their tremendous buying power to give you, in Madelon Jr., Frocks and Coats, worth be- yond your reasonable expectations. Akron, Ohio THE C. H. YEAGER CO. lbany, N. Y. COTRELL & LEONARD Atlanta, Ga. THE GEO. MUSE CO. Baltimore, Md. O’NEILL & COMPANY Birmingham, Ala. J. BLACH & SONS Boston, Mass. R. H. WHITE COMPANY Bridgeport, Conn. THE D. M. READ COMPANY Brooklyn, N. Y. A. 1. NAMM & SON Chicago, Il. W.A. WIEBOLDT & CO. Cincinnati, Ohio THE MABLEY & CAREW COMPANY Columbus, Ohio THE MOREHOUSE-MARTENS CO. Dallas, Texas SANGER BROS. Dayton, Ohio THE ELDER & JOHNSTON CO. Denver, Colo. THE A. T. LEWIS & SON D. G. CC. Des Moines, Iowa HARRIS-EMERY COMPANY Detroit, Mich. NEWCOMB-ENDICOTT COMPANY Fort Worth, Texas SANGER BROS. Hartford, Conn. SAGE-ALLEN & COMPANY, INC. Indianapolis, Ind. H. P. WASSON & COMPANY Johnstown, Pa. PENN TRAFFIC CoO. Los Angeles, Calif. THE BROADWAY DEPT. STORE New Haven, Conn. SHARTENBERG’S New York City RUSSEKS Portland, Maine EASTMAN BROS. & BANCROFT Providence, R. I. GLADDING’S San Francisco, Cali, lif. THE WHITE HOUSE Paul, Minn. MANNHEIMER BROS., INC. Seattle, Wash. THE BON MARCHE South Bend, Ind. THE ELLSWORTH STORE Springfield, Mass.*: FORBES & WALLACE Toledo, Ohio THE LAMSON BROS. COMPANY Waco, Texas SANGER BROS. Washington, D. C. FRANK R., JELLEFF INC. Wheeling, W. Va. STONE & THOMAS Youngstown, Ohio G.M. MC KELVEY CO, A St. ik Sah SN A VOGUE Vogue is published on the Ist and 15th of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Boston Post Road, Greenwich, Conn. Executive and Publishing offices, Greenwich, Conn. Entered as second class matter at the October 15, 1925 Editorial offices, 19 W. 44th Street, New York, N. Y. Vol. No. 65, No. 8 Whole No. 1273 Post Office at Greenwich, Conn,, under the Act of March 3rd, 1879. S.bscriptions for the United States, Canaca, Po:to Rico and the Philippines, $5.C0 a year in advance.

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endSLIN eC te oe ea ea a ae October 15, 1925 BONWIT TELLER &,CO. The Specially Shop of Originalions FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™ STREET, NEW YORK Cn Ji4—Crew neck jumper frock of zephyr yarn, in rose, epinard green, Gothic blue, cedarwood red or natural color 18.50 Suede jerkin with knitted jacquard borders 25.00 J15— New blister weave jumper frock with ‘side-split” turtle neck. In tan, wine red, pecan brown, epinard green 45.00 Imported striped lama feather-weight scarf 4,50 Mail Orders Promptly Filled KNITTED /PORT/ WEAR KNITTED FASHIONS—FOURTH FLOOR Ji6—Jumper sports frock in a new herringbone weave, with purled turtle neck collar and cuffs. In wine red, violine, balsam green, pecan brown, frosted bois de rose, frosted blue or tan and brown 29.00 Ji7—Wool plaid trimmed jumper frock of jerseylaine, with wool plaid faced box pleats. In heather blue, oxford or chestnut brown 39,00 Women’s and Misses’ Sizes

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Oc VOGUE _/ssuredly, the neareat truly smart shop features, BLACKSHIRE

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UE ( ’ i 7 4 : 4 F 2 i i i - 1 A a nl a ES a Sb Pal aie Sa ree atin ii sail ticgs 7 BO. te stn pal ec. October.15, 1925 THE VOGUE | OF | ORIENTAL JEWELRY MARY ASTOR wearing a neck- lace selected for her from the Far East Department of Macy’s. These beads of crystal, carved amethyst and old Chinese enamel are particu- larly wellsuited to Miss Astor’s fair skin and auburn hair. MBER and amethyst, rose quartz and agate; OE ses beads from a mountain temple and jade bracelets waxy smooth with the usage of years—these are but a few of the offerings in the Far East Department of Macy’s. This jewelry has the glamor not of costliness but of intrinsic beauty; with its hint of the exotic, it is unfailingly becoming and in good taste. By importing all its Oriental objects direct, under the supervision of a well known au- thority on the art of China and Japan, and by offering them for cash exclusively, Macy’s is enabled to charge lower prices than prevail at any other New York Store. RH Macy ¢ Co 344 ST. &@ BROADWAY NEW YORK CITY Photographed for Macy’s by Arnold Genthe

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October 15, 1925 ‘You are cordially invited to visit the new home of eWc(2utcheon’s on or about October 14th OR THREE CENTURIES, New York has been moving uptown. Where Madame in crinoline once shopped is now the district of factories and tenements. Where Madame of today buys laces and linens was—not so long ago—open country. 3 Sore 1925, marks a decisive date in this progress up the Island. For on or about October 14th, McCutcheon’s will be athome in its own sumptuous new build- ing at Forty-Ninth Street and Fifth Avenue. A new store—but the old spirit of sincere service and friendly cooperation that has endeared McCutcheon’s to four generations of shoppers will be there. The old, uncom- promising supreme quality which has made McCutcheon’s famous as “The Greatest Treasure House of Linens in America,” will be there as well. And, as always, prices will be as moderate as is compatible with the McCutcheon standard of merchandise. These are all McCutcheon traditions. They shall be maintained as unfalteringly in the future as they have been for the past seventy years. Cordially McCutcheon’s invites you to inspect its new quarters. On October 14th, and thereafter as long as you please, McCutcheon’s is “‘at home” to its friends. McCutcheon’s Pifth Avenue & goth Street

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VOGUE Soo No. 1—PATRICIA—A smart saddle effect one-strap model in that very effective new shade bois de rose, in French kid . . . shown by SAKS- ; FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK. 3 4 « = ’ No. 2—RINTIN—Correct for either ducover formal or utility wear and prominent among the models featured by the HENRY H. TUTTLE COMPANY’S shop in BOSTON. STLOLS gE No. 3—EUBAR—One of the most 4 y attractive models from the fine shops 4 of WETHERBY-KAYSER SHOE COM- PANY in LOS ANGELES, PASADENA and HOLLYWOOD. i = haw SS ND ft | we >) — No. 4—ARA—A favorite in the far Northwest as presented by the TUR- + P RELL SHOE COMPANY and also 1@W) shown by smart stores in NEW YORK oq) and other cities. “With Delight : Ss Jaahion’ Welt C/hoea, a. (a) ao No. 5—MAZURKA—-As harmonious ; tk as the name implies and offered to the 4 . famous belles of BALTIMORE by the | it HUTZLER BROTHERS CO. of that j city. 4 m No. 6—SEQUOIA—A tongue slipper selected from the delightful variety presented by R. H. FYFE & CO. to the smart women of DETROIT.

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October 15, 1925 oF sp CPentiled. Thingy Us Jonn Ruskin By WELEN SHIRLEY 7 O you realize that these pretty shoes you are wearing are welt made?” I was surprised at this question, asked me by a clerk fitting me to shoes in the smart Fifth Avenue department store where I buy my footwear. I was surprised—as undoubtedly you would have been too,—because the shoe I was wearing was a light, afternoon sandal. I had frequently seen similar effects on many of the smart women visiting the gown salon but somehow I had the idea that slippers with such light lines and high heels could not be made by what is called the welt process. ‘Though my profession is that of a fashion expert, nobody had ever happened to call my attention to the development there has been in the use of Good- year welt soles for fashion footwear. “Then”, I said to my very intelligent clerk, “it was lucky that I happened on this pair of shoes because they have been so com- fortable. I have worn this type for ages. They hold their shape so beautifully. How shall I know a welt made shoe when I see it from now on?” “That is one of those technical things you will probably have to leave to your shoe man” he answered. ‘The best thing to do is to ask for Fashion Welts every time you go to buy a pair of shoes”’. The half dozen pairs of shoes I then proceeded to pick out, you may be sure, were Fashion Welt, and they were just as delicate in line as I could possibly have wanted for wear with my most formal frocks. Now, I was ordering these pairs to take with me on one of the trips I make for my fashion work several times a year throughout the country. It occurred to me that the story of Fashion Welt shoes was a most interesting one for everybody to know about. And so on my travels I did some research on the subject. I dis- covered the best stores everywhere are selling fine shoes made by this process; that well-dressed women have been wearing Fashion Welts without realizing why their choice had been so satisfactory. The illustrations here show Fashion Welt models that were loaned to me through the courtesy of the best stores throughout the country. These pictures tell the story of the chic of Fashion Welt shoes. The wearing of them is the test of their comfort and their economy. I can promise that their practicality will prove itself to you as it has for me. From now on, I, for one, plan to make a point of asking for Fashion Welts in shoes for every kind of occasion. If you want to know more about these Fashion Welt shoes write | Helen Shirley, Room 1024 Aeolian Building, New York No. 12—-APACHE—A model that ap- peals to the conservative discrimina- tion of BOSTON as displayed by JORDAN MARSH COMPANY, of the chief city of New England. No. 7—CHOPIN—A two-strap model that is both charming and practical with its graceful open-work—from the WANAMAKER STORES of NEW YORK and PHILADELPHIA, No. 8—SANDRA—Rarely perfect in its general effect and shown here through the enthusiasm of the H. & = ata COMPANY of CINCIN- NATI, No. 9—SONIA—lIllustrated through the permission of CHAS. A. STEVENS & BROS. of CHICAGO who say that it is one of the best selling of their new fall styles. No. 10—APPIAN—In demand every- where and one of the particular fa- vorites in the exquisite stock of D. H. HOLMES CO. of NEW ORLEANS. No. 11—ORSINE—Emphasizing the excellent taste of the Pacific coast and illustrated through the courtesy of SOMMER & KAUFMANN of SAN FRANCISCO. >)

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10 [et New Yorks FIVE-LEADING:STYLE:CREATORS guide the selection of your own Fall wardrobe a* is an entirely new idea in style authenticity. Five of the leading style creators of New York, men and women widely known for their unerring taste and knowledge of the correct mode, have joined together to help you choose your things for the season’s wear. From literally hundreds of differ- ent gowns and wraps submitted to them, these five style creators select each month the few which they deem best. Each model selected is the unanimous choice of the five. The selections will be known as Carolyn Modes and will bear the Carolyn label. They will be on sale at one exclusive store in each city. All dresses will be priced uniformly at $39.50—coats at $69.50. Among these creations one cannot select unwisely. °- VOGUE Dress of Crepe Romaine. Velvet trim; three full circular panels on skirt. Weasel trim collar andcuffs. Colors: Black with White Weasel, Cuckoo with Beige-Dye Weasel. Sizes: 16 to 44. $39.50. Two-piece twill cloth dress, inverted a3 in skirt, tinsel thread em- roidery on sleeves. Colors: Navy, Cuckoo, Queenbird, Gracklehead Blue, and Petunia, Sizes 14 to 20. $39.50. Albany, Ga., R. L. JONES CO. Austin, Tex. E.M. SCARBROUCH & SONS Baton Rouge, La ROSENFIELD D. G. CO. Birmingham, Ala. BURGER-PHILLIPS D. G. CO. Charlotte, N. C., J. Chattanooga, Tenn Clarksdale, Miss., POWERS & CO. Columbia, S. C., KOHN’S Columbus, O., THE FASHION Dallas, Texas TITCHE-GOETTINGER CO. Decatur, III. W M. GUSHARD D. G. CO. El Paso, Texas POPULAR D. G. CO. Ft. Dodge, Iowa THE BOSTON Ft. Wayne, Ind. OLF & DESSAUER Grand Rapids, M ich. FRIEDMAN-SPRING D. G. CO. Greensboro, N. C. THE MEYERS CO. Greenville, Miss. NELMS & BLUM CO, Hutchinson, Kan. ORABAUGH-WILEY DRY GOODS EL.H Jackson, Miss R. E. KEN Indianapolis, Ind., SELIG’S — Mich. Wrap coat of pinpoint cloth. Natural Fitch collar and cuffs. Diamond shaped inserts A self material. Colors: Copper, Black and racklehead Blue. Sizes 16 to 40. $69.50. Carried exclusively at: Knoxville, Tenn. S. H. GEORGE & SONS Little Rock, Ark. PFEIFER BROTHERS Los Angeles, Cal. JACOBY BROS., INC. Lynchburg, Va. pr gh or C. M. GUGGENHEIMER, INC. “ Oklahoma City, Okla. RORABAUGH - BROWN DRY GOODS CO. Oswego, N. Y. G. H. CAMPBELL & CO., INC. Paducah, Ky., E. GUTHRIE CO. Peoria, Ill., THE B. & M. INC. Richmond, Va. THALHIMER BROS. Roanoke, Va. S. H. HEIRONIMUS CO. Seattle, Wash. BEST’S APPAREL, INC. Sioux City, lowa DAVIDSON BROS. CO. Spartanburg, S. C. THE AUG. W. SMITH CO. Trenton, N. J., YARD’S Tulsa, Okla. BROWN-DUNKIN CO. Waco, Texas Co. GOLDSTEIN-MIGEL CO. Wichita, Kan. RORABAUGH D. G. CO. Wilmington, Del. KENNARD-PYLE CO. York, Pa., P. WIEST’S SONS Ss STORE . FIELD CO. NINGTON CO.

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O.ctober 15, 1925 4 ‘Bees hands can be more expressive than your face! Do you realize that? Do you give enough thought to the selection of your gloves? Van Raalte—in designing gloves —does not look upon a glove merely as a covering for the hand, but as an important accessory to enhance its natural grace and to add ex- pression to your every gesture. wy ares big Raalte’s latest con- tribution to the art of glove-making —is dedicated to all those fastidious women who would have more expressive hands. It is a glove that accentuates the beauty of the hands of every woman who wears it—a glove that will attract the world’s admiring glances to your hands! Surah-Suede’ s shimmering lustre and beau- : tiful texture have never before been equalled in any style or type of glove. The styles are Paris-new; the sizes are carefully graded to endow every hand with beauty. Surah-Suede washes beautifully — an important considera- tion in a season when Fashion decrees / ght gloves! a F you really aspire to more expressive 4 hands—hands perfectly gloved to accentu- : ate the full extent of their beauty—you will ask for Van Raalte Surah-Suede Gloves in the Glove Department of your favorite store! Made by the Makers of Van Raalte Hosiery and Underwear NC. Van Raalte Surah-Suede Gloves offer tailored French cuffs, or adorably diminutive cuffs of bro- caded ribbon; embroidered effects, or petal-edged cuffs, cuffs with bindings, accented in color—a most fascinating array for your fastidious choice, Madame ! FOR MORE EXPRESSIVE HANDS—WEAR GLOVES OF SURAH-SUEDE OME idea of the charming diversity of Surah-Suede Glove S styles may be obtained by studying the illustrations on this page. Each is so debonair, so delightful in its cut and color, so charmingly proportioned to enhance the loveliness of a woman’s hands! Each is so chic—so indicative of its wearer’s good taste! Your favorite store can show you ever so many more Surah-Suede Glves—in a wide variety of matching or harmonizing colors for wear with the new costumes. Ask for them by name! — ‘because you love nice things” VAN RAALTE Surah-Sueoe Gloves

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12 VOGUE YOUR. FAVORITE FROCK FORTS FAL TE “Fashion —never twice the same! On these most winsome of new frocks for Fall—from the always original Peggy Paige—tucks and plaits have slipped around to the back, as dictated by the latest decrees from Paris. The newest of the season’s new styles are present in this interesting group, and in the smartest shades—Pen- cil Blue, Black Prince, Arabesque, Della Robia, and others of the fetching new colors of Fall. These dresses are now on display—and you’ll like them all! A few of the stores in which they can be secured are listed. If the name of the shop in your city is not given, it will be sent on request. Dresses tashiontd y 2 ae 18 W 320d St, | (2 ly |

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AV es YO pei =™ 3 I

October 15, 1925 i3 CNow fo be Se SCM In need SO1CS

@ Ney YorR, Aberdeen, S. D....... Abilene, Texas...... Ada, Okla. .. Akron, Ohio. . Albion, Mich.. Albuquerque, N. Mexico. Alderson, W. Va.. Alliance, Ohio. . Mages Mo ooo. es ace ess Altus, Okla........ Alpena, Mich...... Amarillo, Texas... . . thea Anderson, OO ARES Anniston, Ala.. Andulusia, Ala.. Ann Arbor, Mich.. Athens, Ohio... .... sateen enlios Atlantic, Iowa......... . New York Store "Minter Dry Goods Co. . Wilson's “Wadsworth Co. . The Style Shop ‘ B. " Russell’: s Dept. Store 'The Des Champs Store . The Ladies’ Store . Fair Store “M. T. Smith -Ripainek & Mashburne J. Hutzel aibees ‘Style Shop . Bullock & Son Athol, Mass........-...Goodnow, Pearson, Orton Co. Auburn, N. Y.. — Dry Goods Co. Aurora, IIl.. . A. Edwards & Co. Bartlesville, Oikda.. . Higbee’s Keene, N. H... Kingsport, Tenn. v0 tee Riff & Ness LS ae . Sternberg’s Marion, Ohio........ /The Ww. wrner & Edwards Co. Marksville, La....... ve ; I:lster’s Quality Sho Marshfield, Wis...........-- i h . «McCain Johnson Co. Masdliog, Olua..............+-- ...The Bee Hive See Beecer=s oes +++ «45+ . Sawin Jones Co. Mayfield, Ky.......... “Waller D. G. Co. McAlester, Okla...........Grand Leader Dept. Store Memphis, Tenn............ rv ....Gerber’s Memphis, Tex.. "Stone & Lang Miami, Okla. . Pe ’ ‘Sanders, Ridgway Co. Miami, Fla. Siti daa . Whitie’s Shop Michigan City, ae ‘Harry, Shon L adies’ Store Midland, Mich.......*...... . The H. Beckwith Co. Chamberlain, S. D... " aueees Merc. Co.

Chambersburg, Pa... She .. Margaret Rhea Shoppe eee a ae . Hereford's

ee ee “Rosenthal Merc. Co. Charleston, IIl.. Ane mii ee Shriver & McMahon Chicago, II... Caer . The Bradley Shop Childress, Mme eos caske Stone, Blake & Forbes Chillicothe, Ohio. aia te .Story & Brandle Cincinnati, Olio... 25: “Walters Apparel Shop . Little Merc. Co. Clarendon, Texas......... ” "Watts-Sartor-Lear Co. Clarksburg, W. Va...... Clarksdale, Miss......... . The Madeira Shop Clarksville, Tenn....... - McNeal & Edwards Co. Clinton, I........ 0... .. 0202 Pr . Wilson Bros. Clinton, Iowa.......... "The Piatt yoo Coma, DMO... .. 20's+ + " Estes-Parks Dry Goods C Columbia, Tenn..........The r Maaey Dry Goods Co. Columbus, Nebr.. .South Shop Commerce, Texas...... “TE! E. Maloney Co. eS a re . Boston Store - «Covington Supply Co. ..Anthony Balch Co. . The Charlotte Covington, Tenn.. Sane Daytona, eet tay pS eer DeLand, Fla.. "'G. A. Dreka & Co. Delaware, Ohio.. ea aiden .R. P. Harris Co. Pee eee The Harris Store DuQuoin, IIl.. isiaee a --DuQuoin Dry Goods Co. Durham, N. C.: ieee oes .Ellis Stone Co. East Liverpool, Ohio... ‘D. ee Ogilvie & Co.

East Las Vegas, New Mexico. Sed uae The Fashion Shop Eau Claire, Wis.. .Wm. Samuelson shee 5 Goods Co. Edenton, N. C.. .J. H. Holmes ic P. Burnetts eS Leigh Sheep Co. "Diamond “C” Dry Goods Co. Eldorado, Iil.. Elizabeth City, N. ies Elk City, Okla. . po ee! ee ee .Sheehan, Dean & Co. Ellwood, FEY RES te TROL E eeson & Sons Co. Ely, Minn.. PEE Pr ee re The Garment Shop PS ES Sees € rask, Prescott & Richardson Escanaba, Mich...... . Ed. Erickson Co. a a The Evanshire Style Shop Farmville, N. C....... .R. L. Davis & Bros. II, BOB as. 5 556.00 ns cece sects asin Morris Bros. Fayetteville, Ark.. a pesbas ew on .Sherman’s Fayetteville, Tenn.. . George A. Jarvis Fergus Falls, Minn.. * (Gates Ready-to-Wear Shop Fitchburg, Mass..... . The Goodnow, Pearson Co. Flint, as ick ety . .Warrick Bros. jE ee res eS Frankfort, Ind.. re Anspach Co. Ts 0 od 6c cn cane eves Ww. S. ‘Farmer & Son Frederick, Md.. a .. John D. Hendrickson Fulton, eee Bick wWisieo .Franklin’s Gees eC. 6. sss "Carroll & Beyers Co. Gainesville, Fla.......... . Wilson Co. Gallipolis, Ohio...... Sx N. “Deardorff & Co. Glenwood, Minn... a Ella S. Lee Grafton, W. Va..... . Jel llize’s (Gralton’ 3 Best Store) Grand Forks, N. D.... .R. B. Giiffith Co. Grand Rapids, Mich... . . Palais Royal -Routzahn’ 3 Ladies’ Wear Blythe Shoppe "Graham- -Fagg Co. Great Falls, Mont..... Greenport, L. 1... .. 2. ...ce0% Greenville, Texas... . Greenwood, S. C.. Beaudrot Quality Shop Grove City, Pa.. .Milady’s Shoppe Hampton, Va.. “Lacies’ " Spec. ‘Shop (M. J. Goldstein) Hannibal, Mo... . .Sonnenberg & Son Hardin, Mont... .......ccccccscccccsvcccce J. J. Ping Harlan, Iowa. .....----esese- . Toggery Shoppe ae 2S RR ORE ‘Powers & Horton ae Dg Siiewas emawaey aging Donovan Hazard, K Se Pore . .Hardesty’s, Inc. Stendomenvilie, N.C. .P. E. Rollins Herrin, Ill ae ‘Tr e . Herrin Supply Co.

‘The Pierer-Shadel Merc. Co. Hiawatha, Kans.. .Lippman’s Dept. Store Hibbing, Minn.. Hickory, N. Co ris vo « Seteet de. Roel Hillsboro, SS ESA ae ere Yoffie’s Style Shop Hollywood, Calif...... . Ernest Swift, Inc. Homer, La.. cietarsrstes Sd. R. Madden Co.., Inc. Hugo, Okla.. Pos . Stevens, Lambeth Co. Huntington, WwW. LS eee . Deardorff-Sisler Co. Huron, S. D... «ke . Fleming Dry Goods Co. Indianapolis, Ind.. . Cinderella Shop Iowa City, Iowa... .. Phyllis Herrick Gift & Art Shop Iron Mountain, Mich...... . The Style Shop Ironwood, —: bine tae ‘0’ Donnell Seamens Co. Jackson, Mich. . PMA 5 . The Style Shop Jackson, Tenn........--++++++++- ” "Mrs. A. W. Moody . The Quality Shop Jamestown, N. . -Abrahamson- Bigelow Co. Johnson City, Tenn.. ae Ree Hart & Houston Store Johnstown, Pa.. aie we ane .M. Nathan & Bro. Joliet, Ill... ....- eee ee cece eens : ‘Dinet, Nachbour & Co. Kadoka, S. Dak... ..-+-+-+eeee5: Hafner Style Shop Jacksonville, Fla.. Midland, Tex.. Moultrie, Ga.. é TS | rn Mt. Clemens, Mich.... Muncie, Ind... urfreesboro, Tenn.. Muskegon, Mich.. New Castle, Ind... ... Niagara Falls, N. Y.. . Norfolk, og he'ne-d'n'ae North Fork, W. Va..... Norton; Va.. pony eee ee Paris, Tex.. Parsons, Kans.. Parkersburg, Ww. Sosa ee icx du 0% Philadelphia, Pa... ......2..... Waet Aste, Tes.. sacs oss IS is ote eeisccchscecsic by re POCtGVING; TEs. 5k ee es Peeseote, Asiz..........

. .Wadley-Wilson Co. Peggy O'Neil Shoppe .Fred Braune ..Jos. Satier Friedl ander Bros. Stansfield's ‘Harrison 2 Brows Gown Shop .Anspach Co. “és ecil Elrod’ s French Shoppe, Inc. . - Vogue Fashion Shop . Boston Store The Adelaide McGarv ey Shop Wolfe Dry Goods Co. ” Clark Department Store . The Ladies’ Shoppe -Mrs. Geo. Kirby & Co. . 5S. C. Cullen Co. eh W. Harris & Son - Perkinson, Green Co. J. A. Rudy & Sons ities Peel D. G. Co, - Rosa H. Jarboe ‘Dils Bros. & Co. . Lilla Gown Shop ’ Deuteer D. G. Co. -Smiley’s The Famous Mortimer’s - Bashford Burmiste er Co. Princeton, eee ieee H. Nelson Port Huron, Mich. sess vvvvvvsevves wih Br gee Fatt sn ones ars os ...Walton’s | 0.58 on aa an ee oD S. Shaw Co. on i ae a .S. & H. Store Rawlins, Wyo........ “The Fashion Shop Richmond, Va......- eeeeess Roanoke, Va.. Rock Hill, S. e: Rock Rapids, Iowa. . a Feo Rome, N. Y.. Saginaw, Mich.. Sandusky, Ohio. . . enn a ere a eae Scranton, Pa.. Shenandoah, Iowa...... Somerset, Ky... Spur, Tex.. St. Louis, Mo.. St. Petersburg, "a. “% fees i Staunton, Va.. Stillwater, Okia.. Storm Lake, / So eae Stroudsburg, RE heen nie. oa poo ap. Ae. Ara Tahlequah, Okla.......... Talladega, Ala.......... Tallahassee, Fla............-. Tampa, Fla.........-+--+22000 sees po ee eee Terre Haute, Ind......... Thomasville, Ga........ Trenton, ME Gere a oP ats cn Troy, Ala.. Tullahoma ‘Tenn. we Apr eet y = . Tupelo, Miss.. Pinemlacie Misi... 0.0 00s Ee Se Ca Utica, N. Yew veces eeeee ees MURR NER = ¢ 4 o-'+ « +4 +> Lg ee Winktts QB. 5. co noses Virginia, MRE Sis, Wadesboro, N.C........ Warren, Pa.. Warrenton, N. es. Beene 5 af Washington, D. "RSS See Vas See Washington, Ind.. Watertown, Wises. 35 «i Waterville, Me........ Waukesha, Wis.... Waynesboro, Ga.. NMI A ooo os css sce ae 2a - Wellington, - hahaha aaa Wellington, Tex.. Westfield, N. J.. West Palm Beach, Fla.. ae Wilkesbarre, Pa......... WN Mas aioe tas cesses onsen Williamson, W. Va Williamsport, Pa......... Wilson, N.C........ - Winchester, Ind........... Youngstown, Ohio..

"Frances Turner Shop .Spigel’s y's Friedheim & —_ «Mary F. Brockway Co - Spex ar & C o. Ww oman’ s Shoppe . Scheuer- Frankel Co, Griffin Bros. ‘B. ‘H. Levy Bros. & Co. -Cleland-Simpson Co. "|The e Ladies’ Apparel Shoppe . J. Joseph & Co. -Love D. G. Co. Bi Ww. Garland, Inc. -Don Leno Shop The Banner Store, Inc. -Katz Dept. Store Sweet’ s Style Shop = * Wye koff New York Store ‘Samuels & Findlay Co, -Mae’s Shop . Maas Bros, . Jeff Ward - .Jame- Wolfe Co. -Steye erman’s Style Shop . Hoenig-Swern Co. Bros. . Wilson & Sons . Wright Bros. ” “Harris- Hamner Co. - -Morgan- Verhine Co. - Bailey & Griffith -Bon Ton - Stone, Blake & Bailey ——— Ridgway Co. . . Jereissati’s B. €. "Moore & Sons .E. L. Stein ; ae ’R. Rurroughs .Lucile Shop . Hamersly’s LW. F. Brandt & Son Co. -Emery- Brown Co. Dept. Store . The Enterprise Style Shop . .Steinberg’s Dept. Store . Midland Stores Co. . The Fashion .A. Bailey & Co. - House of Reese - -Anthony’ s Ladies’ Dept. .Fowler, Dick & Walker -McCauley Shop See ae én ae pewe eee eles Sohn’s Store hdd dee aa Clark M. Else The Woman’s Shop . Mary’s Shoppe * The B. McManus Co

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14 s 6 Hav | HE WORLD'S ideal of foot smart- ness is invariably associated with the small foot. Yet every woman who achieves the coveted smartness does not start with this advantage of size. What is her secret? She does not try to cramp her foot into a too-small shoe. That would be both uncomfort- able and futile. No, she selects a shoe that, properly fitted, makes her foot look smaller—and that is a shoe of Vici kid. Smart women have dictated the vogue for Vici kid To the woman who goes becomingly as well as smartly clad, e you leamed the secret « of the smart foot’? we. «@ ae ay 2” — ~ ~ in Vici kid....because this rich leather, flattering to every foot, is especially kind to those whose nat- ural proportions do not measure down to the ideal in size. In addition to its size - subtracting qualities, there is another important reason for the vogue for Vici kid. The beautiful new designs and pat- ‘terns need its graceful flexibility and rich finish. The color modes demand its wider range of colors that har- monize so accurately with the wanted costume shades. The Vici kid trade mark Fashion is the dictator only in part. For Fashion lends an attentive ear to the demands of her followers and plans her offerings for the greatest benefit of the many rather than the few. MADE ONLY BY ROBT HFOERDERER INC. PHILADELPHIA will guide you If you want to see how smartly small your foot can look, ask at leading stores Every woman wants the sat- isfaction of knowing that her foot looks small. So the makers of footwear fashions offer their choicest models this mark — the Vici kid trade mark — inside the shoe of your choice. There is only one Vici kid—there never has been any other. You will find it in %™ the patterns you prefer, at the price you prefer to pay. ROBERT H. FOERDERER, Inc. PHILADELPHIA Selling Agents: LUCIUS BEEBE & SONS, Boston Selling agencies in all parts of the world VIC] kid: REG, U.S. PAT. OFP. VOGUE Vaid >. This shoe exemplifies the smart pate terns to which Vici kid is especially adapted. The model illustrated combines Cochin brown Vici with Sudan (Beige). Vici kid in dull (mat) finish is an important note in the footwear modes for fall. The shoe illustrated above is typical of the unusually fine patterns being shown in this smart leather. Shoes of this np be worn with t new street cos- i h. for the beautiful new —shesmares of she new set or models that carry the kid in several combinations of - Cocoa, t popular costume shades. nis y costume shades. Coca, the Vici. kid trade mark. © q:64, o Vis. sinned ok Pe ENTIRE Con’

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October 15, 1925 A GOLFLEX COAT Jor Every Winter Hour A color symphony —the rich silver flecked worsted with its : ngs of silver grey squirrel! Elegant enough to wear with party frocks; bul of a sturdy integrity of material and : ng—a gracious simplicily of design—thal recommend it for daily service Insist on the Golflex label / ‘Wilkin & Adler, Inc. 500 Seventh Avenue, N. Y. C. ENTIRE CONTENTS COPYRIGHTED 1925. BY WILKIM & ADLER. INC.

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VOGUE P EPPERELL| HOW DO YOU JUDGE THE SHEETS YOU BUY? —and Are you getting your money’s worth 2” Clear analysis by University of Pittsburgh Research Specialist and textile maker takes you behind the counter of the Linen Department where you buy bed-linen—What is the “life iss Fredonia Jane Ringo is a specialist on the staff of | the Research Bureau for H Retail Training of the Uni- de—-——~-4! versity of Pittsburgh. In other words, she collects and compiles scientific information to show retail sales- people how and what to sell to you. She wrote a book recently which is making. some stir—called “Linen and Bedding” (4. W. Shaw Company, Chi- cago, 1925). It tells the dry goods and department store what to offer you in linen and bed- ding, and how to sell it to you. Which, after all, is only a compilation of what you want, and of the service you expect from the goods you buy. Sheets and pillow-cases for example— Come ’round behind the counter Miss Rinco: What does a customer look for when she buys bedding? No matter what kind of bedding she is buying . . . she considers sev- eral, if not all, of the following values. The salesperson therefore needs to keep these qualities in mind. 1. Appearance 4. Laundering 2. Durability quality 3. Comfort 5. Serviceability PEPPERELL: Perhaps the best response to this is that Pepperell Sheets have been sold for 80 years to women who buy with these values in mind. ib Wai Appearance Miss Rinco: Customers naturally no- tice the texture of a material. They want sheeting which is smooth and compact without being coarse and heavy... PEPPERELL: Our sheeting (either made- up, or by the yard) is well-known Sor being light enough for easy wash- ing, heavy enough to stand the wear. “Suppose we put it in the form of a dialogue between Miss Ringo, representing you and counseling the store you trade with, and our- selves. When she speaks, we shall quote directly from her book. When Pepperell speaks, it will be simply to indicate wherein Pepperell Sheets and Pillow Cases meet the requirements you have fixed, as Miss Ringo reports them.” Miss Rinco: . . . Good appearance in bed-linen generally means good quality, for smooth cloth must be made from long, high-grade fibers. PEPPERELL: is made of consistently in- spected cotton, of uniformly good grade. It is not the most expensive grade obtainable; the appearance of the texture is, however, one sure guide to its quality. Durability Miss Rinco: Sheeting that is firm is usually durable. If it is loosely woven and has the spaces filled with sizing, it will wash flimsy, and will not stand hard usage. Excessive dressing may be noticed by rubbing briskly between the fingers or-scratching it with the thumbnail. If powdery dust comes out, the cloth is heavily sized. PEPPERELL: begs you to make exactly this test! For it 1s not heavily sized; and the texture of the sheets and pillow cases develops best AFTER a few launderings—a tex- ture smooth and soft and firm. Miss Rinco: If there is a well-known label on the sheeting, this assures the customer of good quality and impresses her with the idea of durability. ” of a good sheet? PEPPERELL: its quaint red label, or “ticket” as it is called in the tex- tile trade, has been applied to all Pepperell Sheets, Sheeting, Pillow Cases and Pillow Tubing, for 80 years. This ts tt— i age a4 Se ZZ ACE ™ rt £& > ged = ( ) 4 Lines AY) nan Ny yet ZY MAINE = by mr —~ HEETINGS D4 \ ; k KI a TS (xi . a SD Comfort Miss Rinco: Cotton sheets are warmer than linen ones. Smooth material naturally feels pleasant to the skin. The size of sheets makes a difference in the comfort which they give. ... It is very disa- greeable to have them short. Since they are intended to pro- tect bedding, which is not cleaned very often, and to keep the face from coming in contact with com- forts and blankets, they should be generous in size... . PEPPERELL: is made in the following lengths: go inches 99 inches 108 inches 93% inches and is made in the following widths, all lengths: ON rch ates Sian ie 54 inches ey SPT ee ee 63 inches Three quarter beds......... 72 inches eee er 81 inches —with box springs . . . .99 or 108 inches Pepperell Sheeting, by the yard, is made in all the above widths, and is to be had in almost every store where sheets are sold. Pillow cases and pillow tubing are also made in every length and width which Miss Ringo advises. Pep:

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t he or all ow 80 1er ‘ial ces ich sa- Pt. ro- ed uce m- ng hes hes ng hes hes hes hes hes 45 lis ore ure na eS. Thereisn'tany doubtthatthe average Pep- perell Sheet bought by Madame Crinoline in the Fifties, would launder as many as 373 times (as an average Pepperell Sheet was washed this year). But there were no science laboratories to certify it then,as 4, there are today. Pepperell quality hasn't changed a | bit. And what seems to us, tfooking back to 1845, the “lost magic” of old-fash- toned quality, is only the i normal product of every =i single day in the Pep- =m perell looms } “its =o Laundering Quality Miss Rinco: Sheeting should be firm and close, but it should be open enough to allow water to pass through freely in order that the fabric may be thoroughly cleaned. Of course, if material is loosely woven and then heavily sized, it will become flimsy after being washed, but good material be- comes more compact. Cotton can be boiled without injury to the fiber and therefore sheets and pil- low cases can be kept white and beautifulifcarefully laundered . . . PEPPERELL: An average Pepperell Sheet was laundered recently as a test. It went through 373 consecutive wash- ings! Its texture is soft and firm today; there is much service still left in it. This was an average sheet, picked out of stock at ran- dom. ... Pepperell sheeting bought by a Boston hospital in 1895, has been laundered once a month ever since, and is still in service! ... Pepperell wear is down right extra- ordinary. Serviceability Miss Rinco: Bed linen must launder well if it is to be serviceable. ... PEPPERELL: does, as you have just seen. Miss Rinco: .. . in one way, cotton sheeting is superior to linen—it does not wrinkle so much and therefore a bed can be made to look smoother and neater than when real linen is used. PEPPERELL: keeps its texture. No sheet made to sell at the established low- price range of Pepperell of course pretends to competition with luxuri- ous real linen, but apparently Miss Ringo feels that even the simple, honest cotton has advantages in serviceability. e ° ° 2 ° There is little to add to Miss Ringo’s thorough summary, except to say that Pepperell Sheets and Sheeting are offered to you confidently by the great majority of department stores throughout the country, at prices which make their daily service-cost to you absurdly low. PEPPERELL MANUFACTURING COMPANY Mills at Biddeford, Maine and Opelika, Alabama Executive offices at 160 State Street, Boston Bliss, Fabyan & Co., New York, Selling Agents

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roper costuming this Fall calls for hosiery of exclusive deVore patterns. ‘Natural autumnal colorings, either in heavy spun silk or duo-tones of silk blended with soft wool are suggested for all Sports Occasions and in suitable ensembles for street wear Ol Nore GCG Fashioned by Burson Obtainable Wherever Exclusive Collections of Hosiery are Displayed SOLE DISTRIBUTERS—KRUEGER TOBIN COMPANY ~/MPORTERS ~ NEW YORK CITY dec sma asa as € ficec in t arra

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NWS ge . KN ADE THE RECEIVING SET ILLUSTRATED IS THE MODEL Radio needn’t disturb any room Here is a Radio set which simply melts into the decorations of any room. This Atwater Kent Model 20 Compact is as small as a row of a dozen books, as unobtrusive as a well trained servant, as neat and workmanlike as every fine electrical instrument should be. Yet nothing in effectiveness has been sacri- ficed in designing this set. The parts in the Model 20 Compact are identical with the parts in the regular Atwater Kent Model 20, re- arranged to save space. 20 COMPACT. THIS SET IS PRICED AT EIGHTY DOLLARS, Perhaps you still think of Radio as a tangle of wires and untidy parts—to be relegated to the cellar or the attic. But now Radio, thanks to this set, has moved into the rooms where the family lives. It fits naturally into its surround- ings. It has actually become decorative as well as entertaining ! Hear the Atwater Kent Radio Artists every Thursday eve- ning at 9 o'clock (eastern standard time) through stations — WEEI... Boston WCAE. Pittsburgh WEAF , New York WJAR. Providence WGR..Buffalo WOC .Davenport WEI. Philadelphia WW) ..Detroit WSAI. . Cincinnati WCCO. . . Minneapolis-St. Paul Write for illustrated booklet telling the story of Atwater Kent Radto, ATWATER KENT MANUFACTURING COMPANY A, Atwater Kent, President 4741 WIssaAHICKON AVENUE * PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA Model ro (without tubes), $80 Radio Speakers $12 to $28 Prices slightly higher from the Rockies west, and in Canada

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The LIGHT STRAIGHT i [7 CRAIN Sh FE. OC) FL DAILGA.LG8BAG | ah pure new BE - 7 —fe | it we O bee1 for hor Hes eage gag less. any littl thin T him. I’m j “6 pair Ie =| . don’ : " , : . 7 66 Pal : =m Id %- ‘ 4 affor ,! Flash the News — SUCCESS! Fat % ash the News 3 = ay ; ane Bott x Diana wins—Diana design, Diana engineering, Diana performance. Everywhere, = need i success. Diana looks successful, looks like $4,000. It performs like $5,000—the per- 4 “er formance that yumped it fen months ahead of the industry. (J Diana is not a copy of ’ un anything, not an adaptation, not a compromise. It created its own class. It’s brand — You new, out of the beaten track, a new style. It’s a pioneer in the new things it does. It’s } — a doer (J Experts say, there are seven great doers, seven truly great chassis built in . “y America. Diana is one of them, but Diana will cost you less than any of the other 4 “v six. ( Diana is the all-new Light Straight Eight for 1926. It develops 73-horse- aap power with a pliant flexibility almost elastic, varying from 2 to 75 miles an hour. while Acceleration, 5 to 25 miles an hour in 6% seconds. An amazing invention, the 4 7 Lanchester Dampener stops vibration, shuts it out, adds running-water ™ inth smoothness to the power. (J Come, get into this wonder car and _ to . . . ° 4 TO drive it. Reduce the speed to six—four—two miles an hour. You can Bret count the explosions in the motor, but no missing, no bucking, not i Pr a ripple. Cut her wide open, get the snappiest pick-up you have ever experienced, see her behave, quick, quiet, noc fFEQUDURANCE a quiver. She’ll make you like it. She'll sell you on the spot.” Again, Success—Diana wins— Diana design, Diana engineering, Diana performance. VY 4 Diana Eights are Sold and Serviced The Easiest Steering Car in America - 4 By Moon Six Dealers Everywhere. Hydraulic four wheel brakes — full size % balloon tires — latest automatic spark, BS) ighting and dimming control on steering lit wheel — radiator shutter — cransrnission lock — Duco violet ray tested finish. Roadster $1895 Phaeton $1895 Standard Four-Door Sedan $1995 Cabriolet-Roadster $2095 Two-Door Brougham DeLuxe $2095 Four-Door Sedan DeLuxe $2195 F.O.B.St. Louis Built by the MOON MOTOR CAR COMPANY for the DIANA MOTORS COMPANY ~~: = Stewart MacDonald. President, Sc. Louis . No. 4 Biles cid ? sii: iit evens eit aati aeaabititi ¥ 4 © 1925

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October 15, 1925 ~ to lived in Cleveland. Just getting a start in life. By manipulating their fi- nances they were able to purchase a little home in a new subdivision. They had yet to pay for it ' —for most of it, at least. And it was considerableof a burden. One evening, after they had been living in the new house for several months, he came home, worn out but happy. He grabbed her up in his arms eagerly. “Well, I knocked another hunk off the old mort- gage today. Guess we’re getting along.” “That's nice,” she replied. But her tone was life- less. He noted the lack of enthusiasm. “What's the matter?” he asked. ‘‘Don’t you feel any more cheerful than you sound?” “T am glad,” she said, with effort. “I just love our little home.” “Well, you certainly don’t look like you loved any- thing. What’s bothering you? Feet again?” Tears came to her eyes. She realized she was failing him. “Yes,” she admitted. “‘And I don’t know what I’m going to do with them.” “But I’ve told you time and time again to go get a pair of shoes that will be comfortable, haven’t I? I don’t see anything to worry about.” “Yes, I know. But they would cost so much, and I’d have to bother with a chiropodist. We can’t afford it.” Then he lost his temper. “I don’t see any sense in allowing your darned old feet to spoil our happiness. Are your feet more important than our home? We've got to work hard to pay out on this property, and we ™ need all the enthusiasm we can find. I wish you’d go ° get that pair of shoes.” “But I’ve got weak feet.” “Nonsense, I don’t believe your feet are weak. You used to play tennis and dance whenever you wished, didn’t you? Girls with weak feet don’t do those things.” “Well —” “Well—” he interrupted — “‘There’s just one thing to do. Get shoes that keep your feet from ach- ing and cramping so you can smile at me once in a while. Let’s look through some of these magazines and see if there aren’t shoes that will help you.” It might be recorded here that the young man was in the advertising business, and naturally he looked to the advertisements for the solution of most of his problems. For an hour they turned the pages, reading carefully about shoes. Presently they came to the Arch Preserver Shoe

= §

CH PRESER'

Ave your Feet : more important, 3 than your Flomé? Little chapters from the story of how the Arch Preserver Shoe changed the ideas of a Nation. No. 11 <=YVYS XG Me 2 advertisement. It said this: ‘I never dreamed there could be such a difference,’”’ quoting a New York literary woman who was visiting her niece in Nor- wood, Ohio. ; “There is the answer,’’ he exclaimed. ‘‘That wo- man had the same foot troubles you have.”’ “Do you think those shoes could help me?” “T’ll read some more. You listen.” Then he read (from the advertisement): ‘It looks just like a regular shoe, but it is different. There is a bridge in the arch. That keeps the feet from sagging. . . . Your feet were made to bear the weight of the body, but they also were planned to be sup- ported. The dealer explained this by showing how the foot rests flat on the ground when you are bare- footed. And he made me understand that the heel lifted the back of the foot and left the arch without any support at all. The bridge in these shoes gives this support.” He looked up at his wife. ‘‘That sounds like sense,” he said. He began again: ‘“‘But the Arch Preserver Shoe has more than the bridge. The inner sole is flat. That lets your foot rest easily, without pinching the nerves and blood-vessels.”’ THE SHOE Supports where support is needed — bends where the foot bends 17 “etn “And listen to this: ‘When you buy this shoe they don’t merely put your foot into a size that is long enough and wide enough to cover it. They mea- sure your foot from the heel to that bone just back of the big toesothat your instep fits over the bridge exactly right. This bridge must be right up against your foot, so there will be a firm walking base just as when you go barefooted.’ ” The wife seemed convinced, . but without enthusiasm.“‘Yes, those things may be true, but I’d look terrible in such shoes.” “All right,” said her husband. “We'll see.”” He read further in the advertisement, then suddenly his face brightened. ‘‘Here’s the answer to that: ‘The Shoe that has Changed the Ideas of the Nation — because it has provided comfort and style — because it has done what no other shoe ever did before.’ I guess that will satisfy you that you ought to try a pair anyway.” The other day we heard from that young husband. “My wife’s shoes,”’ he wrote enthusiastically, “‘helped more to pay off our mortgage than anything else. Your advertising told us about them; and your shoes made good. I felt that you ought to know.” And so we invite you, too, to find out for yourself about Arch Preserver Shoes. The booklet, “Use Your Feet,” sent gladly in return for the coupon from you, will give you more facts. Also, we'll be glad to tell you the name of your dealer if you don’t know him. THE SELBY SHOE CO. 343 Seventh St., Portsmouth, O. Makers of Women's Fine Shoes for more than Forty Years

Don’t wait until your feet be- come troublesome. Let this book tell you now how to keep them well while wearing the smartest styles.

The Selby Shoe Co., 343 7th St., Portsmouth, O. Please send postpaid your booklet, No. 43, “Use Your Feet”, and name of Dealer. Name

Street and No. P. O.

State

No. 470 Look for the trade-mark on the sole and lining of every genuine Arch Preserver Shoe. Sold by 2000 dealers. Styles for all occa- stons. All widths, AAAA to E,

Made for women and misses by only The Selby Shoe Co., Portsmouth, Ohio; for men by E. T. Wright & Co., Inc. Rockland, Mass.

@ 1925 by The Selby Shoe Co. “KEEPS THE FOOT WELL”

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18 VOGUE a The Complete /rom The GOSSARD ne of Beauty Take off your dress, have a Gossard Complete fitted, then : put your dress back on—My word! the frock looks twice as Girdles smart! Know why? Your lines are slimmer, firmer, straighter Pes a 2059 . “ astic Belvadears —yet you have not sacrificed one iota of comfort. Gossard poate Completes, in keeping with all Gossard figure foundation The Complete garments, fit perfectly, wear comfortably and well, and im- Rubber Reducing Garments prove one’s figure lines at once. Thanks to super-excellence Front-Lacing Corsets of designing ... Made of lovely materials, in a wide range and Step-ins of prices and sizes: Ask your own corsetiere. The Dancelette The H.W.Gossard Co.,100 East Ohio St.,Chicago. Offices also in New York, San Francisco, London, Toronto, Sydney, Buenos Aires Oct Md ee aimee.) |

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JE ™ October 15, 1925 (A faille back reversible satin in a weave with the sheen of- fi ltered sunshine on limpid waters Garments featuring these ‘abrics can be secured at ready-to-wear departments Also by the yard at retail Silk. departments SATIN VOUVRAY BAGDAD SATIN CREPE SIAM NADJA BAGDAD FAILLE MOLESKIN SUPERIOR KITTEN'S EAR CREPE 19 Produced by SILK DEPARTMENT Haas Brothers Fabrics Corporation Fifth Avenue, New Yor.

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Oc 20 Z VOGUE * aa® CHOPIN y % / O AAASS ALL LAS LAS 3 Sea ROFSESUAnetse eet ee * APACHE two strap SONIA one strap ORSINE GLORIFYING AMERICAN STYLES IN FASHION WELTS Sor of mysterious technical terms the Fashion Welt shoe is made throughout by Goodyear Welt process on a last, so that it holds its shape indefinitely. The outsole is stitched to a “welt” or narrow strip of leather rimming the sole so that the stitches are outside the area where the foot rests; therefore there are no rough stitches, or no wax lumps under the foot. It is the only process permitting resoling on ma- chinery identical with that used in original manufacture.

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October 15, 1925 SEQUOIA EUBAR FOOTWEAR EXPLOITING AMERICAN SUPREMACY IN FASHION WELTS Presented by: Saxs—Firta AVENUE Tae WANAMAKER STORES Cuas. A. Stevens & Bros, New York New York and Philadelphia Chicago : Tue Henry H. Tortie Co. JorpaNn Marsn Company Tue H. & S. Poaur Co. Boston Boston Cincinnati Hurzier Bros. Co. D. H. Hotmes Co. R. H. Frre & Co. Baltimore New Orleans Detroit F. W. Danner & Co. SANGER Bros. Turret SHoz Co. Richmond, Va. Dallas Seattle San Francisco Wernersy-Karser Suor Co. Sommer & KaurMANN Five Shops Tue Waite House Los Angeles—Pasadena—Hollywood City or Paris Tse Emporium SANDRA hh 21

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Dashing middy effect in silk crepe, New model made of Molly-O 7 with chiffon collar and cuff set . ites ae embroidered in gold metal thread Coat of Kashmana Cloth lined with Mallin- bg Bs oF omer son’s Pussy Willow, tuxedo shawl Sable Marten collar, border of Sable Marten fur The Leading Stylist of the Age Creates a New Mode An entirely new group of Julia Hoyt Modes—dresses, coats and wraps—dis- tinctive in fashion touch, featuring latest designs in Mallinson’s Silks and Fabrics —will be shown each month in each city. The exclusive and original creations of the woman who is famed for her strik- ing costuming effects, the foremost ex- ponent of advanced ideas in dress ex- pressive of character and personality. = Meee Look for our exclusive agency esses mM exclusively O 500 Seventh Ave. NSONS JULIA HOYT MODES,Inc. “New York city MALLINSON

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October 15, 1925 O SURROUND yourself with an atmosphere of softness, elusiveness and infinite feminine charm, youhave merely to negli- gee yourself in a‘‘Dawn- robe!” Creations for fastidious individualists —full of imagination— daringly different — su- perlative in quality — supet/owtive in price... A partial list of leading stores featuring “‘Dawn- robe” Negligees, Kimo- nos, and Robes is given hete. They will gladly exhibit them for you. But, if there is any diffi- culty, please write to us. Lila Lee, famous motion-picture favourite, and star of “The Bride Retires,”’ the big success at the National Theatre, NewY ork City, introduces an enlivening note of interesting intrigue when she dons a “‘Dawnrobe” coached in the ways of Oriental lure. *“How LEADING ACTRESSES € Dress IN THEIR BOUDOIR” A fascinating Booklet showing AS stunning photographs of Lila ' Lee, Dorothy Knapp, Margue- rite Young, and Fay Marbe in their ‘‘Dawnrobe”’ Negligees. Complimentary copy on request 4 Marguerite Young, one of the sixty beauties with ‘‘Earl Carroll Vanities,” is never more exquisite than when she silhouettes herself ina “D most delicate and irresistible awnrobe”" Negligee of loveliness, , ALBANY, N. Y. W. M. Whitney & Co. ALLENTOWN, PA. F. Heinz Co. ALTOONA, PA. Wm. F. Gable Co. ALTUS, OKLA. Baker, Hanna Co. ATLANTA, GA. M. Rick & Bro. BAY CITY, MICH. H. G. Wendland Co. BINGHAMTON, N. Y. — Dick & Walker 0. BRIDGEPORT, CONN. D. M. Read Co. BROWNWOOD, TEXAS. Alvis Garner BUFFALO, N. Y. Adams, Meldrum & Anderson CANANDAIGUA, N. Y. Lynch, Fuller Corp. CHICAGO, ILL. Marshall Field & Co. CINCINNATI, OHIO Mabley & Carew CISCO, TEXAS Joseph H. Gaines CLEVELAND, OHIO The May Co. DALLAS, TEXAS Sanger Bros. DAYTON, OHIO Elder & Johnston Co. DENVER, COL. May Co, 23 A Negligee, Kimono or Robe without this Label — NUN TTT I77 iy “eG Png Ae gat _ NEw. YORK REG. TRADE is not a “‘Dawnrobe” To be stunning and picturesque yet infinitely feminine, Dorothy Knapp, ‘Ziegfeld Follies’’ beau- ty, has merely to robe herself in this ‘‘Dawnrobe” of most mag- nificent personality. DES MOINES, IOWA Harry Emery Co. DETROIT, MICH. J. L. Hudson Co. EASTON, PA. Bush & Bull ERIE, PA. Erie Dry Goods Co. ESTHERVILLE, IOWA Herman Oransky EVANSVILLE, IND. Max DeYong FALLS CITY, NEB. Schock’s Store FLORENCE, S. C. Florence Dry Goods Co. FLOYDAD, TEXAS Baker, Hanna Co. FORT WAYNE, IND. Wolf & Dessauer Co. GATESVILLE, TEXAS Alvis Garner GRAND RAPIDS, MICH. Paul Stekette & Sons GREENBURG, PA. A. E. Troutman Co. GROWNWOOD, TEXAS Alvis Garner HARTFORD, CONN. G. Fox & Co. HATTIESBURG, MISS. Fine Bros. HOBART, OKLA. Hanna Bros. HOLLY SPRINGS, MISS. A. C. Levy HORNELL, N. Y. Ehrlich Bros. Where to Secure Negligees, Kimonos and Robes of Most Cfascinating Intimacy INDIANAPOLIS, IND. H. P. Wasson Co. JACKSON, MISS. R. E. Kennington Co. JAMESTOWN, N. Y. Abrahmson & Bigelow Co. KENNET, MO. Ike Caldwell LA CROSSE, WIS. Wm. Doenzlenger Co. LANSING, MICH. J. W. Knapp Co. LOS ANGELES, CAL. J. W. Robinson Co, LOUISVILLE, KY. Stewart Dry Goods Co. MARLOW, OKLA. Baker, Hanna Co. MEMPHIS, TENN. B. Lowenstein & Bro. MIAMI, FLORIDA Burdine’s MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. ons NEW HAVEN, CONN. Gambel Desmond Co. NEW ORLEANS, LA. Maison Blanche Co. NEWPORT NEWS, VA. Sol Nachman’s Depart- ment Store OKMULGEE, OKLA. Fulford Dry Goods Co. PADUCAH, TEXAS Baker Hanna Co. Created Exclusively by THE ARTCRAFT NEGLIGEE CO., 1-13 East 33d St., New York City POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y¥. Lucky Platt & Co. QUANAH, TEXAS Baker Hanna Co. RICHMOND, VA. Miller & Rhodes ROCHESTER, N. Y. Sibley, Lindsey & Curr Co. SHAMOKIN, PA. C. C. Leader & Son Co. SPRINGFIELD, ILL. John Bressmer Co. SPRINGFIELD, MASS. Meekins, Packard & Wheat STEUBENVILLE, OHIO Coopér Kline Co. ST. LOUIS, MO. Stix, Baer & Fuller Co. TERRE HAUTE, IND. Meis Bros. TULSA, OKLA. Seidenbach’s., WABASH, IND. Batman Wolf Co. WACO, TEXAS The Goldstein Migel Co. WASHINGTON, D. C. S. Kann & Sons Co. WATERTOWN, N. Y. Frank A. Empsall WELLINGTON, TEXAS Baker Hanna Co, YORK, PA. Chas. H. Bear & Co. YOUNGSTOWN, OHIO Strauss-Hirschberg Co.

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VOGUE 24 UNDERWEAR Dainty exquisitely made undergar- ments of pure glove silk; also of the highest quality fibre. Economical for general use because it wears like iron, and after repeated launderings is as fresh and crisp as the day it was bought. The vests are cut extra long with shoulder straps properly placed. The bloomers are generous in size, and strongly reinforced. Comfort- able step-ins that allow perfect free- dom around the knee. The step-in chemise—a delightful and roomy one-piece garment. Costume slips with slight fullness at the sides, and deep shadow proof hem. All these garments can be had in a beautiful assortment of all wanted shades. If you do not find it at your favorite store write us. ordon HOSIERY Pure dyed, unadulterated silk hosiery from the sheerest chiffon to the heaviest silk, made with the utmost care to last long and look beautiful as long as it lasts—in all the shades demanded by fashion today. The hosiery the discriminating woman has been wearing for genera- tions. Sold only in retail stores everywhere at economy prices. Always ask for Gordon Hosiery by name. BROWN DURRELL COMPANY Gordon Hosiery - Forest Mills Underwear NewYork Gordon Underwear Boston. 1 WWW WW AG GAL ANA AACA 1a TA FWA WAN AT TT ATT Te AI TY 4 Uap a + Te te rire dn WIA eee ‘dala AT ITAT | TATITAT, rn adhe Oc

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aa NSa@jpGi Bade aM Meda eM MMM UM UE a a ft Lact October 15, 1925 Skinners for “Wer ATIN makes the foot look smaller, and shoes made of high grade satin hold their shape better. No wonder Fashion favors them, for these are two essentials of smart footwear. But there is a wide difference in shoe satins and nothing reveals it more quickly and clearly than actual use. Today’s styles require a more serviceable fabric than those of other years. Skinner’s Shoe Satin has been selected by the best makers as the perfect material for the expression of their art. It is made expressly for use in shoes and is unequalled for strength and richness of appear- ance. In buying slippers and shoes, ask for those made of Skinner’s Shoe Satin, to make sure of wearing quality. WILLIAM SKINNER & SONS Established 1848 New York, Chicago, Boston, Phila—DMéills, Holyoke, Mass. Skinner's Shoe Satin “LOOK FOR THE NAME IN THE SELVAGE” 25 fé)

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j | It really fits! Clad in Athena Underwear, you can do your “daily dozen”’ with perfect ease. So unrestricted are your move- ments, you scarcely realize you are wearing it. There is no strain at any point, no binding, no bunching—none of the discomforts common to ordinary undergarments. For Athena is tailored in the making to follow the nat- ural curves of the figure. Jt really fits! This is the secret, of course, of why it can be so delightfully com- fortable and at the same time smartly trim. Yet it ATHENA Underwear for Men, Women, Children + “Tiny Tots” for Infants MarsHALL FieELp & Company, Wholesale -. (hicago + New York VOGUE ATHENA FASHION NOTES Madame says,“and the figure so slim and straight — your Athena will help to give it!” Daily dozens, discriminating diets, meas- ured miles—a willing price many pay for the “figure so slim and straight!” And Athena does not rob you of a single ounce of the slenderness so dearly won. Its graceful, fig- ure-conforming lines do more than make Athena smartly trim;they add immeasurably to your comfort. Unusual comfort features Sound only in Athena The combination of distinc- tive Athena features shown here appears simple until its comfort is measured against the ordinary undergarment. The tailored back, gracefully tapering to the waist, the ex- | tra fullness across the bust— these eliminate the unpleasant stretching, bunching or binding, so often found, which can actually spoil one’s pleasure in the most charming of gowns. And Athena shoulder straps are so placed they do not slip off! Of all Athena comfort features, perhaps the most appreciated is the fitted seat. Athena Underwear does not depend on the stretching of the knit fabric to provide extra room; curved pieces of cloth, generous in width, are set in to provide the fully rounded seat. The result is freedom from bunching, straining, or gaping. But mother and the girls in school have no monopoly on comfortable, soft, warm under- garments. There is also an Athena line for men and boys, just as carefully proportioned and painstakingly finished. This more sturdy Athena is designed for active bending and reaching without bunching or binding. The closed crotch and extra wide seat provide the added comfort every wearer has learned to expect of Athena. For Tiny Tots For the wee member of the fam- ily, there are Tiny Tot bands and wrappers, specially designed for making warm and comfortable, fat, chubby babies. Mothers particu- larly appreciate the ample width which prevents gaping, the fine non- irritating fabrics, the smooth seams and bindings, Note this Difference i. Compare Athena “tek with any other knit = undergarment, point for point. You will un- derstand, then, why } the woman who has i once worn Athena al- ; | ways wears Athena. | Shape of Seaton | Athena of Ordinary Underwear Underwear | a ocsccenccacacesee! anenseneer

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‘UE ES meas- for the Athena of the ul, fig- make urably tching, which e most oulder off! aps the Athena -tching room; th, are it. The aining, — lessness dinary rwear } ah nell October 15, 1925 27 , outh fos tmae s ~ Beauty Inspired That ease, grace and poise that add so much to woman’s natural beauty finds LA \ inspiration and expression in the inimitable Silks and Fabrics from the — iN ‘ Mallinson looms. | be For over a quarter of a century they have maintained their high standard: OaeteVelawmolcttiametevemtetebhulelthi tian Naturally these silks cost a little more, but they are worth, oh! so much more. , / Soe . SU omotsr la memelrliiamectareltlerlictest tame) at elulucer-tole Mn Zelttam telitie:te(ecme amie! the name MALLINSON on the selvage. All the better stores sell MALLINSON' Silks and Fabrics de Luxe H. R. MALLINSON & COMPANY, Inc. New York Chicago San Francisco | i 3 p eee Exclusive American and Canadian Representatives—for the Woolen, Silk and Cotton Fabrics of FRANCE

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to co | (Oe en ——— —— 7X 2: OQ MG MV ore Bea uliful --The Newest Slipper 6 con of I. NGller

Alluring Autumn slippers, created by I. Miller to captivate the fancy of the most fastidious .... Anda style diversity from which to choose the ideal shoe for every function--every frock! ‘ > AY. er DP) aS, oie a We picture but a few of the fascinating new styles--already leading the exclusive mode --which may be seen solely at the shops of I. Miller and his-accredited representatives. I. Aller Beautiful Shoes Wholesale Headquarters: Retail Headquarters : Harris & Ely Avenues 562 Fifth Avenue Long Island City New York 3 ‘< 2s VEX Gy ine 4

DAS Ds 90.0).

Whe

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PARIS re on =, a) -) . % 2 -) = S 8 L925 October 15, SPRING ALREADY ! (Déja le printemps! !) WITH CHANTAL In enlarged salons made necessary to a supreme 1c rise by her meteor a9 position in the “Couture Chantal is showing an advanced collection of dresses that are a distinct foretaste of the mode FOR NEXT SPRING CHAN TAL =. Ror ee pte er PARIS de Morraovt Q 4 ree Se Ge ait eral ines L ic Distinctive Details ythmi Unusual Color Schemes Rh CPLACE DE LA CONCORDE )

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30 Te SHOPS & VOGUE cn PARYS VOGUE A PROPHECY ---- | What I wrote in the issue of “Vogue i July 15th. “A new theory ~ almost a new philosophy ~ of dress will distinguish the autumn and winter models | LT shali show in Paris t buyers in August. ..- The typical designer of Paris vtsualizes a gown only | at rest ~ siatic. .. In our studios we design gowns in motion. The picture we seek to make is the 2 AND ITS FULFILLMENT. What the Foremost Fashion Experts Wrote after They Had Seen Kinetic Design: picture the gown presents when passing. .. It ts kinetic design. oe By Edna Woolman Chase, Editor of Vogue Those who take aesthetic pleasure in women’s dress should be grateful to such attempts as that of M. Lucien Lelong, with his kinetic design, to draw us away from the essentially ugly fashion of the tube and to bring movement into the fashion. VOGUE By Marjorie Howard Paris Di f >> B aris irector oO Harper's azar HARPER’S Lucien Lelong 's Mon of designing a “kinetic silhouette,” or oes ion BAZAR movement, is essentially of our epoch, and thoroughly in keeping with our restless a ge. By Alice Kelley Perkins Paris Fashion Editor of Women’s Wear WOMEN’S M. Lucien Lelong’s kinetic design is another way of saying that he is WEAR giving motion to flat surfaces and thereby attaining beauty. . . His studies in capturing the principle of motion: . . make his present collection one of the most interesting to be seen in Paris. By Mme. de Grammont, Fashion Editor of Femina . ; the gowns themselves, when they were shown. . . demonstrated FEMINA that not only had Lelong composed line in movement, but ~ more remarkable ~ he had adapted color to movement. By Lucien Vogel, Director of Jardin des Modes LE JARDIN Lucien Lelong has accomplished the crossing with that mixture of DES boldness and, careful thought that is so characteristic of him. Thanks to which he gives us this season one of the happiest solutions of the MODES ** silhouette en mouvement. Fashion has since confirmed. and strengthened this verdict. Lelong kinetic models stand unchallenged as the SUCCESS of the new Paris SEASON LUCIEN LELONG, 16, Rue Matignon, PARAS Oc

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E @ October 15, 1925 Th SHOPS & VOGUE « PARIS 31 NICE _1 de Rivoli (Hate! Negresco) ; CANNES Casino G RECO Ss DEAUVILLE_1rGontaut-Biron(Gsino)D) FJ BOTTIERE Ps BIARRITZ Av Edouard VIl 4,RUE DES CAPUCINES_ PARIS 2

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Te SAOPS & VOGUE »~ PARIS’ = = VOGUE ; miler sceurs e outiure RK Hl | HH hal | HIN NUD announce the opening =|, - of their new salons in deeember at. é%.faubourg Saint-Honoré paris

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October 15, 1925 Tho JHOPS of VOGUE in PAR! JEAN PATOU SES ROBES SES ENSEMBLES DE SPORTS SES PARFUNS PARIS 7, RUE S! FLORENTIN DOCEVUILLET DRESSES WRAPS FURS LINGERIE ios 24. PLACE VENDOME.-PARIS MT LUCIEN LELONG COUTURIER | l6.RUE MATIGNON PARIS ———— & a ge = Henri Manuel a ae EAN, high-shouldered, immaculate Lucien Lelong is building additions to his premises in the Avenue Matignon, additions that will give him, by spring, the largest dressmaking plant in Paris. “Plant” is a heavy name to apply to quarters wherein goes on such exquisite work as the fashioning of Paris model gowns, but it is, nevertheless, a name which Lucien Lelong would himself choose were he more familiar with the American business idiom. Business comes first with him; art is his factory production. His new plant, then, will afford scientific accommo- dation—scientifically lighted, scientifically ventilated, arranged, and equipped—for three thousand workers. It gives one a glimpse of recent progress in the haute couture. It indicates, also, the imagination of Monsieur Lelong himself. He is to celebrate his thirty-sixth birthday in the month when Vogue prints this sketch. Before his thirty-seventh, he foresees himself head of a creative dress house with three thousand employees— twice as many as most of the prosperous maisons de couture now employ, three times the average in the more celebrated half of the luxurious industry. Such figures would have been regarded as fantasy by the great designers of a generation gone, with their few score employees. Only one man of that day, Mon- sieur Lelong thinks, would not have been staggered by (Continued on page 34) 33 The SHOPS of VOGUE in PAR DRESSES WRAPS FuURS LINGERIE PERFUMES PARIS 7, RUE DE LA PAIX LONDRES 3. HANOVER SQUARE BIARRITZ 7, PLACE be LA MAIRIE DOUCET DRESSES WRAPS FURS LINGERIE Re ons 21, RUE DE LA PAIX.PARIS modes PAR Iex~ ROSE DESCAT 22.RUE ROYALE. 22 DRESSES | ~ e “ape DRE LINGERIES dreves.fury_lingerie 10 PLACE VENDOME PARIS. MARTIAL er ARMAND PARIS 10 PLACE VENDOME 158, RUE DE LAPAIX LONDRES ISALBEMARLE STREET WI

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34 Tho JMOPS of VOGUE: PARU COUT URE 574 Rue S'tonord DARIS wr COUTURE FOURRURES (Continued from page 33) the subsequent development, the man who is for him chief of the departed gods— Monsieur Paquin. Neither his own times nor ours, Monsieur Lelong believes, have accorded to that man his just dues. Behind the extraor- dinary Madame Paquin, when she was making fash- ion by the crook of her finger, stood the executive talent of her husband—first to vision Paris couture as a vast world industry. Though Lucien Lelong follows the Paquin ideal and is, as he says, “industrializing the art of dress creation” (“‘and it is an art,” he adds earnestly), he must not be taken for a mere commergant with an eye only for the cash drawer. He is also a real dressmaker—one who can design, cut, and even stitch as expertly as anybody in his establishment—, coming by his calling, as so often happens in the luxe industries of Paris, by in- heritance. For many years, his father headed a small dress house in the Place de la Madeleine. There, young Lucien learned his métier, starting at the bottom as an ouvrier and working up. At twenty-five, he persuaded VOGUE The IWMOW oe NOGUE cn PAR LOUISEBOULANGER CHAMPSELYSEES 7 pp — his old-fashioned father to retire. He thereupon re- SYS Z cruited a small, but talented staff of designers, cutters, SRUE DE BERRI ith premiéres, and vendeuses. That first individual col- lection, which was to start the house upward towards OU the company of the great, was made ready; and the DRESSES fi 35 commercial buyers were invited to come and see it on FURS AV DE VOPERA August 4, 1914. MANTLES > i CS (Ss August 4, 1914! On August 2, Lucien Lelong went LINGERIE (ei EE ee (Continued on page 35) es it MONNIER NEAR PLACE CHANTAL | | Nin a a PARIS BERTEE 45,RUE BOISSY D/ANGLAS m (PRES DE La MADELEINE) DESHABILLES ROBES_LINGERIE LINGE DE MAISON ni 231.RUE S HONORE PARIF 4 ruede Mondovi (PLACE DE LA CONCORDE ) = GRECO = THE LEADING PARISIAN STYLE ' CREATOR IN WOMEN’S’ SHOES drewes IN PARIS wraps 4 RUE DES CAPUCINES Uist NICE: 1, rue de RIVOLI (Hétel Negresco) 8. RUE DI ee CANNES: CASINO ° DEAUVILLE: 4, rue GONTAUT BIRON (Casino) BIARRITZ: 6, AVENUE EDOUARD VII 6,RUE DE LA PAIX | PARIS

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TE a ae October 15, 1925 ro JHORS & VOGUE 21 PAR’ >= PARIS| olbrg S' Honoré Anc’ Place Vendéme) inthe Nid ne Reony COUTURE Dh 11 RUE DELA BOETIE PARIS NANTEUIL DRESSES WRAPS FURS LINGERIE 8. RUE DE CASTIGLIONE, PARIS (Place Vendome) sani i) Ll ~ ml ———— I]t ru tem He | | j=) | (Continued from page 34) away with his regiment to fight in the incredible war that had broken out. He won a commission, was twice cited for the Croix de Guerre, and finally fell, severely wounded. After a year in hospitals, he secured, in the autumn of 1918, a strong enough grip on health to crawl back to Paris, where he found the business (again being run by his father) on the brink of ruin— the experts dispersed, the house near bankruptcy. The final receipts of the year had been one hundred and eighty thousand francs, a sum that Lucien Lelong now occasionally takes in within an hour. With a small loan from a friend, he made a fresh start. In a year, he was a factor in the couture; in three, a recognized couturier of the first class. In 1924, he acquired an ancient hétel particulier in the Avenue Matignon and remodelled it. Its vast size appalled Monsieur Lelong, who planned to rent out its street floor in stores; but, before he could carry such plans into effect, the success of a new collection crammed the building with workers. From that day to this, the designing and making of gowns in the Maison Lelong have gone on to the sound of hammers and saws—space being occupied when only half finished, midinettes and Joseph-coated paint- ers brushing elbows in ateliers reeking of damp plaster. Monsieur Lelong’s success last spring spelled doom for the court-like garden of the hétel; he filled that with a three-story factory building. The popularity of the present collection is piling another five-stories upon those three. This whole establishment, with its automatic tele- phone system, its forced ventilation, its elevators for the working staff, its unit-motors—machinery in which Monsieur Lelong, a true industriel, takes an abiding interest—reflects its master’s insistence upon subor- dinating the art of dress design to the business of dress production. Typical of Lelong is the stage in the grand salon. Instead of the mannequins being sent directly among the spectators, the models are first shown on a stage (Continued on page 36) 35 Tho JNOV OF VOGLE&: PAR PLACE DE LA BOURSE PARIS and BIARRITZ AIX LES BAINS MONTE CARLO al MARTEE REGNIER THE FAMOUS PARISIAN ACTRESS&MILLINER WILL BE PLEASED TO SHOW YOU HERLATEST MODELS IN THE DELIGHT: FUL ATMOSPHERE OF HER PRIVATE HOUSE 51, RUE FRANCOIS It PARIS ITMARTHE REGNIER HAS ALSO CREATED AN ENTHRALLING SERIES OF NEW PERFUMES WRAPS Their exclusive designs are now under the personal direction of Monsieur DECIO ROSSI, who has with him a very efficient staff of artists for the creation of his mod- els, which are only obtainable at their Paris House. 11, Rue de Penthiévre, Paris STE AN™E FRANCAISE LINGERIE MILLINERY AMY LINKER LADIES TAILOR, and DRESS MAKER. 7.RUE AUBER PARIS

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36 The JMOPS of VOGUE zn PART

SERS) s aio BYa CHEMISIER SPORT DRESSES 10, RUE CASTIGLIONE .PARIS -

f Se £2 RANDOLPH Ne’ THE READY-TO-WEAR HOUSE RANDOLPH, 1 tue ave DE LA PAIX MAKES A SPECIALTY OF A COMPLETE LINE OF ready- to-wear DRESSES WITH THE TRUE PARISIAN CHIC. IF YOU COME TO PARIS, YOU ARE RE- CEIVED IN HIS SALONS BY AN ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF. IF YOU ARE IN AMERICA, YOU CAN BE SERVED BY MERELY WRITING FOR HIS CATALOGUE, AS HE IS IN A POSITION TO DO BUSINESS DIRECT AND IS AL- READY SERVING A LARGE AMERI- CAN CLIENTELE BY MAIL-ORDER. OUT-SIZES A SPECIALTY. PRICES FROM 500 FRANCS UP RANDOLPH 20, Rue de la Paix, PARIS

furs wraps dresses jerseys 14,RUE ROYALE 14 PARIS et diCANNES

(Continued from page 35) lighted by hidden projectors, one battery of which throws “artificial daylight” to reveal the sunlit colour values of outdoor frocks. The glass floor of the stage is illuminated from beneath for the effective display of jewelled skirt embroideries. Lucien Lelong himself is a modest chap with a boy- ish manner that makes most people like him on sight— a trait that is no mean business asset. Everybody “pulls” for him—his employees, the American buyers, the fashion writers, and private clientes—, and this is a tremendous factor in his rapid climb. His most winning trait, however, is his straight- forwardness. There is no buncombe about Lucien Le- long, no artistic posturing. He does not, for instance, set himself up as the sole creator of the gowns bearing his signature, but says frankly that they are collabora- tions to which all the house talent contributes. He is the animateur of his collections, he says—the one who imposes his taste and thus brings about artistic unity. Of late, Monsieur Lelong has been launching his new collections so impressively as almost to bring a new picturesqueness into the couture. He gets his effects by originality in his advertising. He gives Paris something new to talk about. And now, Lucien Lelong is coming to America for his first visit. He is coming quietly, in a rdle no more exciting than a keen young business man looking over the country that is much his best customer. He bears a cachet from his government to investigate the employ- ment of women in American industry, and he expects to make a serious study of this theme. The whole country, from Boston to Los Angeles, lies on his itiner- ary. He will meet the dealers who buy his models for commercial copying and observe the dress needs of American women. “I am going to breathe the air of America,” he says. Out of Parisian air, the designers say they drink inspiration for the intangible thing we call style. In the atmosphere of America, perhaps Lucien Lelong will find influences to affect even Paris itself. ROBERT Forrest WILSON VOGUE Tho SHOPS of VOGUE ze PARU/

sn

NUCTI™ . 04>00 | =m (QUPD<E OZ-ZM<M = #68,RUE LAFFITTE PARIS

2 RUE GAMBETTA . BIARRITZ |

77 B

BARCLAY LADIES TAILOR AND DRESSMAKER 18§20 Avenue de lOpera PARIS BEST TAILORED SPORTS CLOTHES COLLECTION OF AFTERNOON AND EVENING GOWNS JEAN MAGNIN

D’AGUECSZEAU

10, |

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SUE October 15, 1925 37 RU The SHOPS of VOGUE in PAR! aoe i eee Tho JHOPS of VOGUE An PAR! ‘ ote | WORLD'S Aine Montaillé BEST FURS 1, Place Vend6me Paris t AND BEST STYLES ' DRESSES - COATS - TRICOTS GRUNWAIDI 6 RUE DE LAPAIX 4 Muse Dgnie PARIS “WMisdince. LINGERIE MILLINERY | q Steacnen . ADAME AGNES created the hat with the high, Tyliler Soeurs pointed crown that swept like a flame over WEIL] SCOEURS Paris and America last winter. She made it for Jane Renouardt, who wore it once, and it was made. Often, Madame Agnés launches her own hats. That is, she wears them first herself, and, when she does, their (Couturiers success is instantaneous. For she could not wear a hat that is not chic. She has unerring taste. MODES Everything else she wears is smart—and different. This summer, she appeared at the races, when most of COUTU RE the well-dressed women of Paris had taken to colour 7 —beige, blue, bois-de-rose—, costumed all in black, LImBG ERIE save for beige stockings and beige crépe appliqué on her’ dress in a huge, modern, lightning pattern. At 2 once, she was the target of the fashion photographers. (4 AO? A-PETITE PARISIENNE 77 Rue des Petits Champs She is not one of those workers who dwell in isola- 21 FAUBOURG St HONORE 91 RIS PARIS tion and then produce creations that are often unre- ; a ITZ lated to the times. She is in constant contact with the mRARIS outside world, the newest movements, and the smart- est places. All she meets becomes a part of her art 2 LO In a word, she learns from all she looks on, and her looks go everywhere. Literally, hardly a week passes that her face with its Mary Pickford shadows is not seen in the pages of some fashion magazine or news- paper rotogravure. Of course, Providence was very kind to Madame Agnés. It gave her a small piquant face with great long eyes and black lashes almost as long. Her figure is slim and straight, and her feet are diminutive and shapely. She has a small, perfectly proportioned (Continued on page 38) XW IK \ S Founded in ©) - IS THE GREAT PARISIAN SPECIALIST IN LADIES 10, rue de Castiglione HAN D BAGS PARIS AND CREATOR OF SMART MODELS 8 Rue dela Paix PARIS

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38 The JMOPS of VOGUE zn PAR Germaine Guerin the smartest ladies hand- bags, tortoise shell, dressing cases 243, rue Sain t-Honoré, Place Vendéme, Paris. CH it) 7 BOUL? MALESHERBES (MADELEINE) GOWNS COATS FURS Creator of the embroidered fur coat The great success of the season . Favored by American buyers in Poris COUTURE FOURRURE LINGERIE CwBersAa ef Pios Meme. (WN esame Lanse, “Mediate (Continued from page 37) head and very small, close-set ears, from which she often hangs long modern earrings. She wears her vital, grey-streaked dark hair straight back from her face like a boy. In short, she is a perfect example of that term, petite Parisienne. Modernity is the key-note to her appearance—and her hats. She was the first to wear the Dunant painted dress and to use on her hats the silver pins and buckles of Puyforcat, whose work has claimed so much atten- tion at the Modern Art Exposition. She numbers among her friends many of the foremost designers and painters of the ultramodern school, and, last year, she began making hats inspired by modern art. These hats started the vogue for modernistic trimmings, such as painting and appliqué in geometrical and modernis- tic design. Tue History oF A SUCCESS Madame Agnés, although she has had a meteoric rise as a master modiste, served a long and honourable apprenticeship. She was premiére at the houses of Reboux, Talbot, and Georgette. In 1919, she started her own establishment in a little back court in the Chaussée d’Antin. In 1922, impelled by her success, she moved to the rue St. Florentin into a lovely old building of Empire inspiration. Her creative ability and her modern ideas very soon established her among the foremost Paris hat makers. Her hats possess sim- plicity, harmony of line, and softness of contour. They are a favoured accompaniment of those little dresses of nothing at all that are at present so smart. Many of these famous hats she designs on her own head. THE SMALLEST BUT SMARTEST UMBRELLA SHOP IN WILSON 8, Rue Duphot PARIS Modiles déposes izwe Vignon ANDREE Paris - Deauville Td. Cenbial 03-55 VOGUE The JHOPS of VOGUEin PAR MARIGNY (Place Beauvau) PARIS FORMERLY DEFFONTAINE MARG UE RITE GERMAIBRE STYLISH NILLINERY TSRUE ROYALE . PARIS ELYSEES 19.04 tonpres MONTE-CARLO pegu vite ] ~DEUX i CLAUDINE 27, RUE TRONCHET PARIS THE SPECIALTY SHOP lingerie de luxe FRENCH AND SCOTCH TRICOTS-SPORT HATS reasonable prices 27.RUE DASTORG PARIS & PERRIER THE WOMANS TAILOR OF DISTINCTION BERTHE SAVIGNT the _ smartest PARISIA™ CORSEVIERE for over2s years I2O RUE ROYALE-PARIS ie) Se XM... N [’ tum! neg! mad. porte most color

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October 15, 4 Pruett lilly, =? I9@ SHOP/ F VOGU Lor rm fireplace TODHUNTER 414 Madison Avenue New York uipment Equipment FIL TY an INEZ YORK Births Engagements Erhart.—On July 30, to Mr. and Mrs. C. Huntington Erhart (Katherine Kent), a son. Hall.—On August 25, to Mr. and Mrs. Richard B. W. Hall (Dorothy Schiff), a daughter. Hard.—On August 15, to Mr. and Mrs. Anson W. Hard (Florence Bourne), a daughter. Lobdell.—On August 27, to Mr. and Mrs. Leighton Lobdell (Ruth Adams), a daughter. Oakey.—On August 31, to Mr. and Mrs. Francis Oakey (Helen Leibert), a daughter. Unusual Trevor.—In August, to Mr. and Mrs. and Henry Graff Trevor, junior, (Genevieve Goodwin), a daughter. tots +4 Vermeule.—On August 10, to Mr. and Distinctive Mrs. Cornelius C. Vermeule, junior, (Cath- erine Comstock), a son, Cornelius Clarkson Vermeule, third. Welles.—On August 24, to Mr. and Mrs. Paul Welles (Elizabeth Ashe Galt), a son. Whitridge.—On September 7, at South- ampton, Long Island, to Mr. and Mrs. Arnold Whitridge (Janetta Alexander), a daughter. Deaths NVITES you to in- 2 ‘ spect an early Au- ; tumn Collection of negligees exquisitely made of beautiful im- ported materials in the most delightful pastel colors. Ss Tea Gowns Linens Sport Clothes La Chandler.—On August 25, at Hartford, Connecticut, Charles F. Chandler. \- Didrichsen.—On August 20, Carlie A. Sibley Didrichsen, wife of Ferdinand Van Zandt Didrichsen. Drake.—On August 20 Simeon Joseph Drake, husband of Mabel Swift Drake. Frost.—On August 22, at Swampscott, Massachusetts, Elihu B. Frost. Hall.—On August 25, Edward Everett Hall, husband of Olive W. Condit Hall. Lee.—On August 30, at Spring Lake, New Jersey, Charles Northam Lee, husband of Anne L. Meurer Lee. Morgan.—On August 14, Jane N. Grew Morgan, wife of J. Pierpont Morgan. Parmly.—On August 16, at Red Bank, New Jersey, Randolph Parmly, husband of the late Mary Olmstead Parmly. Stettinius.—In August, Edward R. Stet- a BRIDE’ S tinius, husband of Judith Carrington Stettin- ius. li LINGERIE we —— 2s, “4 eeet Kisco, ew York, David Stuart, husband of Eleanor va to oo Holland Stuart. ee Vail.—On September 2, at Woodstock, and other Vermont, Henry Hobart Vail. Real Laces Vanderbilt.—On September 4, at New- port, Rhode Island, Reginald Claypool 442 Madison Avenue Vanderbilt, husband of Gloria Morgan NEW YORK Vanderbilt. Telephone Plaza 1225 van Wyck.—On September 8, Richard van Wyck, husband of Lillian S. Troth van Wyck. Delafield-Frothingham.—Miss Winifred F. Delafield, daughter of Mrs. W. Folsom Delafield, to Mr. Donald McL. Frothingham, son of Mrs. Samuel Frothingham, of Lenox, Massachusetts. Gallwey-Floyd.—Miss Alice Edgar Gall- wey to Mr. Rolfe Floyd, junior, son of Dr. Rolfe Floyd and Mrs. Floyd. Gerry-Drury.— Miss Mabel Gerry to Mr. F. S. E. Drury, son of the late Archdeacon Drury, of London, England. Hopkinson-Brooks.— Miss Marion Hop- kinson, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Hopkinson, to Mr. John Brooks, son of Mrs. Morgan Prout Brooks. Houghton - Foster.—Miss Caroline Houghton, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Augustus Seymour Houghton, to Dr. Stuart O. Foster. Hyde-Johnston.—Miss Katherine Bal- lard Hyde, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Truslow Hyde, to Mr. Robert Johnston, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Johnston, of Newburgh, New York. Page-Blanchard.— Miss Dorothy Traston Page, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Hugh Page, to Mr, John Alden Blanchard, of Detroit, Michigan, son of Mr. and Mrs. F. C. Blanchard, of Dorchester, Massachusetts. Ware-Hoyt.—Miss Jean Ware, daughter of Mrs. Sydney Lawton, to Mr. J. King Hoyt, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. James King Hoyt. Yerkes-Ramsdell.— Miss Evelyn Verkes, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Leonard A. Yerkes, of Wilmington, Delaware, and Buffalo, New York, to Mr. Robert A. Ramsdell, son of Mr. and Mrs. William M. Ramsdell, of Buffalo, New York. W cddings Barclay-Moore.—On September 5, in the Church of Saint John the Evangelist, Saint Paul, Minnesota, Mr. George C. Barclay, son of Mrs. Reginald Barclay, and Miss Eliza- beth Weed Moore, daughter of Mrs. William H. Fobes. | Billings-Abeel.—On ‘September 109, in Saint Peter’s Church, Morristown, New Jersey, Mr. Jason Evans Billings, son of Mr. and Mrs. Oliver C. Billings, and Miss Eliza- = a Abeel, daughter of Mrs. Neilson el. Brooks-Balke.—On August 1, in the Church of Saint Roch, Paris, France, Mr. Francis Brooks, son of Mr. and Mrs. Freder- ick Brooks, of Boston, Massachusetts, and Miss Katherine Balke, daughter of Mrs. McKeown Balke. Brown-Wentworth.—On August 20, in the Church of Our Saviour, Longwood, Mass- achusetts, Mr. Huntington Brown, of Utica, New York, and Miss Elizabeth Water Wentworth, daughter of Dr. Arthur Wentworth, of Brookline, Massachusetts. (Continued on page 40) 39 The J jOF VOGUE cae NEW YOR VU OLOUM MD Ss OG G SS Wie inc, 22 EAST 56™ STREET NEW YORK. i) an oe catering to an exclusive C Private Cfientele Qif models are original and ave the exclusive Creations of Svelyn WcHorter We are Featuring EXCLUSIVE SPORT FROCKS Made to your order {) ) ———at $ 95 eens MourRNING or Aristocrats BLACK Hats Wraps Coats 19 East 49¢ St. New York MAIDS’ & NURSES’ UNIFORMS Send for Catalog A 19 West 57th St., N. Y. Telephone Plaza 2573 A step from Fifth Avenue BurckDbeirs MILLINERY 6 West 57th Street NEW YORK The World’s Show Place of Fashion HATS, GOWNS, COATS, and WRAPS Prices Never Excessive

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40 he JAOW 9 VGGUE “NEW YORK Exclusive Dressmakers and Ladies’ Tailors 5 East 52nd St. New York 10 W. soth Street New York Paris sends bewitching little BONNETS AND FROCKS for the Fall Season Everything for Infants and Girls to 14 years. Boys to 4 years Models of exquisite simplicity, designed, stitched and embroidered in Paris by French Needlewomen Copies of French Models will be made to order atvery reasonable prices MADAME WILL BE SERVED BY FRENCH SALESWOMEN (No Catalogue) 18 East 46th St. NEW YORK The most recent Autumn Inspirations of the great French designers are now being shown with copies and adaptations. IOILTY in. INEW YORK (Continued from page 39) W eddings—Continued W eddings—Continued Burke-Page.—On October 3, at Oyster Bay, Long Island, Mr. Franklyn Burke, junior, of Forest Hills, Long Island, and Miss Ruth Page, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Frank C. Bauman Page, of New York, and Oyster Bay, Long Island. Cansler-Penington.—On October 3, in Trinity Church, Wilmington, Delaware, Mr. John Scott Cansler, son of Mr. and Mrs. Edwin H. Cansler, of Charlotte, North Carolina, and Miss Carolyn Jones Penington, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Penington, of Wilmington, Delaware. Carey-McKeever.—On September 12, in Saint Andrew’s Dune Church, Southampton, Long Island, Mr. Walter Lewis Carey, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frederic Foster Carey, of Tuxedo Park, New York, and Miss Frances Chauncey McKeever, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. I. Chauncey McKeever. Coffin-Smith.—On October 6, Mr. Lewis A. Coffin, junior, son of Dr. Lewis A. Coffin and Mrs. Coffin, and Miss Lois Smith, daughter of Mr. Irving T. Smith. Colonna-Isham.—On September 5, at Manchester, Vermont, Dr. Paul Crenshaw Colonna and Miss Frances Pierpont Isham, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Swift Isham. Coolidge-Brooks.—On August 31, in Saint Peter’s Church, Cazenovia, New York, Mr. Oliver Hill Coolidge, son of Mr. and Mrs. J. Randolph Coolidge, junior, of Bos- ton, Massachusetts, and Miss Elizabeth Ten Eyck Brooks, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. J. Arthur Brooks, of Cazenovia, New York. Du_ Bois-Chisolm.—In October, Dr. Robert Ogden Du Bois and Miss Elizabeth H. Chisolm, daughter of Mrs. B. Ogden Chisolm. Elliot-Sands.—On September 12, in the Church of the Holy Trinity, Paris, France, Lieutenant Giraud Elliot, son of Mrs. Douglas H. Gill, and Miss Elizabeth S. Sands, daughter of Mrs. Frederic P. Sands. Evans-Field.—On October 10, Lieutenant Houston Val Evans, junior, son of Major Houston Val Evans and Mrs. Arthur Wallace Case, of Monterey, California, and Miss Kathryn Pearsall Field, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Pearsall Field, of Short Hills, New Jersey. Gardner-Anderson.—On October 10, at Detroit, Michigan, Mr. Arthur Gardner, of New York, son of Mrs. Charles Henry Gardner, of Washington, D. C., and Miss Suzanne M. Anderson, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Wendell Anderson, of Detroit, Michigan. Gaylord-Francis.—On October 15, in Saint Thomas’s Church, Mr. Bradley Gay - lord, son of Mrs. Harvey R. Gaylord, of Buffalo, New York, and Miss Katharine Witherbee Francis, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Wheeler Francis. Goelet-Willard.—On September 24, at Newport, Rhode Island, Mr. Robert Goelet, son of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Watson Goelet, and Miss Roberta Willard, daughter of Colonel Joseph H. Willard and Mrs. Willard. Hamilton-Hawkins.—On July 29, at Sayville, Long Island, Mr. Burgoyne Hamil- ton and Mrs. Owen Hawkins, daughter of Mr. oe Mrs. Robert L. Owen, of Washing- ton, ° Heisler-Bonsal.—On September 9, Mr. Charles Lee Antony Heisler and Mrs. Elinor D. Stewart Bonsal, wife of the late Frank Adair Bonsal, of Baltimore, Maryland. La Farge-Swords.—On October 8, Mr. Oliver H. P. La Farge, son of the late John La Farge, and Mrs. Charles R. Swords. Matthews-Luke.—On September 15, Mr. H. Freeman Matthews, son of Mrs. Henry C. Matthews, of Baltimore, Maryland, and Miss Elizabeth Rodgers Luke, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Luke, of Tarrytown, New York. Mickle-Banks.—On October 3, in Saint Luke’s Church, Noroton, Connecticut, Mr. Chew Mickle, junior, and Miss Mabel Morti- mer Banks, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry W. Banks. Milliken-Greene.—On September 5, at Cherry Valley, New York, Mr. Henry Ooth- out Milliken and Miss Harriet Paige Greene, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George de Boketon Greene. Morris-Thaw.—On September 5, in Saint Andrew’s Dune Church, Southampton, Long Island, Mr. Augustus Newbold Morris, son of Mr. and Mrs. Newbold Morris, and Miss Margaret Copley Thaw, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Josiah Copley Thaw, of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and New York. Otis-von Schuch.—On August 7, at London, England, Mr. Morton Otis, of Pomfret, Connecticut, and Baroness Louise von Schuch, of Vienna. Palmedo-Franklin.—On October 22, in Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Mr. Roland Palmedo, son of Mrs. Ulric Palmedo, of Great Barrington, Massachusetts, and New York, and Miss Elizabeth Merryman Frank- lin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Philip A. S. Franklin. Robbins-Schreiber.—On September 2, at Watch Hill, Rhode Island, Mr. J. William Moore Robbins, son of Mrs. Edward Everitt Robbins, and Miss Elsie Wendell Schreiber, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Otto A. Schreiber. Rose-Goodwin.—On August 20, in Saint James Church, Prouts Neck, Maine, Mr. James McKinley Rose and Miss Helen Goodwin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Burton Goodwin. (Continued on page 41) VOGUE Fe JAR of VGBUE “NEW YORK | Slender & Sylph-like As befits the mode of an Afternoon Slipper—A New Vanity Fall Creation Fash- ioned in these exquisite ma- terials PAULA Patent Colt, Black Velvet, $17 Black Satin Black Suede, Patent Trim, Brown Suede, Brown Kid Trim, Redskin Suede, Tan Kid Trim, $ 1 8 Patent Colt, Grey Kid Trim Prompt attention to Mail Orders Send for New Style Brochure WANIT x OOT SHOP 11 WEST 50th ST. New York City New York SMART MILLINERY copied and remodeled Illustrating passe hat and recreating design An economical idea approved by fashionable women every- where Velours, Felts and Velvet Shapes of all kinds Reblocked and Trimmed into Fashionable Models of Today Immediate attention to orders by mail IRENE FRANKS 18 West 49th St., New York Tel. Bryant 1567 BROADTAIL MINK FEATURING a collection of Russian Caracul in Autumn Colorings , FURS: SABLE CHINCHILLA 751 Fifth Avenue New York Palm Beach A smartly simple Parisian Bootery creation with distinctive underlay design, bench-made in many combi- nations of fabrics, leathers and colors. Originated, like all our models, to emphasize the daint:ness and grace of the feminine foot. Send for attractive tooklet of new styles BOOTER Vest 4 5 Next Door to the Lyric Theatre We have no other store 154

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Vi) | It JL id le ile NCW YMMV MMM The zest of oviginali Zetswind ri the aty a winsome number by Ben Lewis creatéd by hand with a catchy interplay of contrasting inserts. Mail Orders Promptly Filled Send For New Style Brochure ben Suro 2307 BROADWAY 29 WEST 50th ST. Now. C 1967—-Silk Bag, embroidered, 10 in. long $9.50 1842—Silk Bag, jeweled gilt frame 5.00 1544—Rhinestone shoe buckles. Pair 10.50 804—Glass Jar, filled with bath salts 3.75 8177—Match holder and Ash Receiver 2.00 4211—Cut Steel Shoe Buckles. Pair 5.50 1313—Rhinestone Shoe Buckles. Pair 4.00 7308—Flask, % pt., hammered pattern 5.00 86!—Novelty pin Cushion and Jewel Box 1.35 Garter Rosettes and initial. Pair 1.75 Garter’s Initial only. Pair 1.50 ___. Garters with rosettes. Pair 1.35 Mail Orders Filled Booklet V on Request LA CHAPELLE Importer of Suite 615 500 Fifth Ave. ws (Continued from page 40) W eddings—Continued Soctal Events—Continued Sarasin - Dearth.—In October, Mr. Thierry Sarasin, son of Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Sarasin, of Basle, Switzerland, and Miss Nina Van Rensselaer Dearth, daughter of Mrs. Henry Golden Dearth. Trubee-Harlan.—On August 8, at Paris, France, Mr. John H. Trubee, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frank C. Trubee, of Buffalo, New York, and Miss Janet Flagg Harlan, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Maynard Harlan, of Chicago, Illinois, and New York. Underhill-Quinn.—On September 10, at Field Point Park, Greenwich, Connecticut, Mr. Jacob Berry Underhill, junior, and Miss Dorothy L. Quinn, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Martin J. Quinn, of Greenwich, Con- necticut, and New York. Weintz-Cortelyou.—On August 20, at Huntington, Long Island, Mr. Jacob Freder- ick Weintz, son of Mr. and Mrs. William Weintz, of Evansville, Indiana, and Miss Grace Cortelyou, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Bruce Cortelyou. W eddings-to-Come Bartow-Woodiand.—On October 24, in the Episcopal Church, South Orange, New Jersey, Miss Edith S. Bartow, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Nevett Steele Bartow, to Mr. H. Thompson Woodland, son of Mr. Theo- dore M. Woodland, of Hutton Park, West Orange, New Jersey. Roelker-Thomas.—On November 25, Miss Roberta Gordon Roelker, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Roelker, of New York, to Mr. Frederic C. Thomas. Social Events Hunt Race.—October 31, at Peapack, New Jersey.—The Essex Hounds. Ball.—October 27, at the Hotel Astor._Mrs. Julian W. Robbins and Captain William B. Franklin are in charge of the preparations for a ball to be given for the benefit of the Na- tional Navy Club. Opera.—November 2._Opening night of the Metropolitan Opera Company. Luncheon.—November 12, at the Roosevelt Hotel.—This luncheon is given by the English Speaking Union. Horse Show.—Week begi: 2N ber 24, at Squadron “‘A" Armory.—This exhibition under the auspices of the National Horse Show Association, of which Mr. John M. E. Bowman is president, and Mr. Reginald W. Rives is secretary and treasurer, will take place this year in the armory of Squadron “A.” and the entry list will be found to in- clude the most ‘prominent exhibitors from every section of the United States. The fea- ture of the National Horse Show, this year, will be the tea-room, which will be under the management of Miss Beth Evans, the proceeds of which will be given to the Boys Club of New York. Mrs. E. Roland Harri- man is chairman of the committee, and assisting her are Mrs. Charles Sabin, Mrs. Frederick Allen, Mrs. Frederick B. Adams, Mrs. G. Hermann Kinnicutt, Mrs. William C. Potter, and Mrs. Bernon S. Prentice. Bazaar.—December 12 to 10, at the Grand Central Palace——A Christmas Bazaar will be held for the benefit of the Lenox Hill Neigh- borhood Association and the Association for the Aid of Crippled Children. Mrs. Marshall Field is chairman of the committee, and Mr. Thomas S. McLane is chairman of the ad- visory board and treasurer. It is planned to make the bazaar the biggest and most elabo- rate of its kind ever held in this city. Two floors of the Grand Central Palace will be turned into a miniature city. There will be five streets and two avenues, with eighty shops and booths constructed on all sides, from which visitors may purchase their Christmas gifts. The main floor will be devoted to booths and the midway. On the mezzanine floor, there will be tea and supper- rooms, two ballrooms, and two complete little theatres. One of the ballrooms will be open for public dancing, the other for private dancing. One of the little theatres will be exclusively for children. It is planned to have both circus and vaudeville perform- ances in both theatres. Toyland will, of course, be an important part of the bazaar. Mr. Francis Hartman Markoe will prepare the setting, and associated with him will be twenty-five artists and decorators. Junior Assembly Dances.—December 4, January 8, and February 5, at the Ritz- Carlton.—These are subscription dances for the débutantes of the season and for girls who have been out one year. The permanent committee includes Mrs. Richard C. Colt, chairman, Mrs. Herbert L. Satterlee, Mrs. Walter Phelps Bliss, Mrs. Marshall J. Dodge, Mrs. Robert L. Stevens, Mrs. James G. King, and Mrs. Herbert L. Pratt. Knickerbocker Assembly Dances.— November 28, January 16, and A pril 10, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel——The subscribers to these dances will be young women who have been out in society three years or more. As the date chosen for the opening dance is that of the Army and Navy football match here, the dance will undoubtedly be a great success. These dances will be a continuation of the Junior Assembly Dances that have an ever- growing subscription, which is too large to include girls who have been in society for more than two years. Yorkville Dances.—December 1, December 15, January 12, February 0, and February 16, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel—These supper dances are for the benefit of the Yorkville Community Association. Metropolitan Dances.—December 29 and March 27, at the Ritz-Carlton. Miss Robinson’s Dances.—December 21 and December 22, at the Plaza Hotel.—The Junior Dance will be held December 21, the Alumnae Dance, December 22. Holiday Dances.—ai the Plaza Hotel.— Mid-Holiday Dance, December 23; Senior Holiday Dance, December 28; Junior Holi- day Dance, December 30. 7 : Miss Benjamin’s Supper Dance.— December 30, at the Park Lane. IN THE SHOP of” Opel AD aQJsen Mh) AGS i Aosorf New Yorks nlevior Decorator @ Smporter ( Wbjels nb Abayahs New and unusu- ally beautiful for opera or after- noon wraps of qual- ity and charm that is different. In lighter weights for negligees. The Abayah is the outer garment women in the color-lov- ing East. Damascus | silk shot with exquisite pat- terns of gold and silver woven threads. A fine selection of An- tiaue Arabic Jewelry. Beads. Mail inquiries will receive Amber. careful attention men and Of hand- American Colony Stores 559 Madison Ave. of Jerusalem New York 2 West 47th Street New York, N. Y. FRENCH SHEER STOCKINGS HOSIERY REPAIRED RUNS in all makes repaired invisibly by the CD We specialize in the repair of Charges—50c to $1.50 “Let Us Run Out Your Hosiery Runs” Mail Orders Filled INCORPORATED GOWNS The mode’s latest and most chic devel- opments in the new materials and colors for day and evening wear 11 West soth St. New York HATS Inaugurating a unique new department: HATS of smartness with emphasis upon harmony with frock or gown

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Se JAOR of VQGUE ir NEW YORK | ccnneneentemeeenemnmmtmemeeal

Telephone or appointment Plaza 2703 “Le Llus Chic’ Your face may be your fortune but your hands denote your cast. A manicure at regular intervals should be part of the toilet of every well- groomed woman. Remember that youthful hands are as important as a youthful face. We are specialists in perfection of the hands. Joliemain Preparations Briliiant—An enamel, a lasting rose tint and a polish for the nails. Hand Enamel—to bleach and whiten the hands leaving them youthful and beautiful. Nail Powder—for lustre. Rouge— JOLIE-MAIN 24 East 55th St., New York

Beauty Hints HE oldest Beauty Salon in New York giving the fa- mous Strapping Muscle Face Treatment—which so thorough- ly eradicates disagreeable blem- ishes and rebuilds the tissues. sold direct—insur- ary rey : ~ aan ute fresh- » West Fifty-First Street At Fifth Avenue, New York Phones: Circle 7135-7633 Write for Brochure describing our com- plete line of prep- arations which are

Unt the deft and enchanting skill of Madame Mays’ scientific meth- ,/P ods, your beauty becomes vivaciously en- hanced. Wrinkles, freckles and scars van- ish, lines about the eyes are smoothed a- way,and relaxed tissuesof faceand throat are given the new BP amie of satiny tex- ture. Treatments of usually 10 to 14days are given amidst all the restfuland elegant surroundings of a private home. All con- sultations and treatments in strictest con- fidence. Convincing details and booklet on request - 50 W. goth St. VOGUE ci BEA HERE is no better way to be con- sistent about beauty methods than to establish a nightly ritual and re- main faithful to it at whatever hour one retires. This routine should be made as simple as possible, so that one will not weaken in its execution. Such a ritual might begin in front of the dressing-table with the brushing of the hair for five minutes. This brushing is most beneficial, whether the hair is long or short, when the stroke of the brush starts at the scalp and brushes down, up, then out. Another five min- utes might be allowed for caring for the face. A cleansing cream should be rubbed on and wiped off carefully with cleansing tissue, followed by a gentle bathing of the face in warm water, if the water available is soft and if it agrees with the skin. This should be followed by a dash of very cold water, ice, or an astringent. Then, a softening, nourishing, or developing cream should be applied and allowed to remain overnight. Three minutes will suffice for the hands and arms. A soap made from vegetable oils should be used for washing them and a sof- tening lotion to keep them white and smooth, always including the elbows in any arm treatment. Just before go- ing to bed, a little oil should be rubbed over the cuticle of every finger-nail. This keeps the cuticle soft, so that it may be easily shaped and need never be cut. The eyes require but one minute, during which they are washed clear of the dust of daytime with an eye-wash or warm water in an eye- cup. This routine requires but about fourteen minutes of each night and soon becomes entirely mechanical. These treatments are, of course, meant only for the perfectly normal skin. Any individual curative measures that one needs may, and by all means should, be included in the routine, since it is this consistent care that leads to the surest way to beauty. Drawing the Colour Line Every woman knows that the most skilful way to apply rouge is to fol- low the natural line of colour in the cheek. But, to naturally pale people, this line often seems non-existent. If one takes a hand-mirror, however, and stands by the window, the line where colour would be if there were any is evident in a very faint outline even in the most colourless skin.- One should follow this outline in applying rouge, to obtain the most successful results. Some of the new powders in vivid tones of rose and orange that are made as regulation face powders for skins roIin ts O i ef with high colour may be used in place of rouge by the woman with a very pale skin who wishes only the faintest tinge of colour. These lend a faint glow to white cheeks that is amazingly natural. Reducing Points If fine points of rouge are placed at the base of the nose, at either side, they are effective in reducing the im- pression of width of nostrils that are too wide. Making Up for Time There are many women who ex- periment carefully with the make-up for their faces in the bright light of morning and achieve exactly the right amount with which to go out into the daylight. But they then make the error of retaining the same amount at all times. Time and place should be taken into consideration in make-up almost as much as they are in costume. For the softened light of afternoon, the make-up should be heightened a bit, and, for the sparkle of evening, a more vivid rouge may be used. In fact, the woman who experiments until she has an effective make-up for each type of occasion is the one who will be most successful. At Summer’s End Among the favourites of the gods are those women who need nothing more than careful cleansing to keep their skins smooth and satiny. “I never have to do anything to my face but keep it clean and put some pow- der on it,” they say. But let them not defy the gods who gave them gifts! At the end of the summer, let them consult their mirror carefully. Even the finest skins suffer under the rigours of summer suns and seas. One small jar of bleaching cream or a soothing lotion used only for a week or two may be the simple means of restoring the skin to that delightful state where it needs no further care. And neglect of these simple means may be paving the way to a future in which more drastic measures will be necessary. Midnight Oil Castor-oil may be numbered among the oils that render so many services to beauty. For if castor-oil is gently massaged with a finger-tip over the lower and upper eyelid near the eye- lashes and allowed to remain on over- night, it will help to make the eye- lashes glossy and luxuriant.

VOGUE

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Ie October 15, 1925 RooSEVELT NEW YORK CITY Edward C. Fogg Managing Director Madison Avenue at Forty-fifth St. O the Grill of this delightful Hotel, you may bring your friends . . . assured of finding just the right atmosphere .. . alluring music by Ben Bernie and his Roosevelt orchestra . . . delicious food... Dinner Dances 7:00 to 9:30 P. M. Supper Dances 9:30 to 2:00 A. M. | (Mb C/tirador 200 W. 51st St., at Seventh Ave. —where notables of society, the stage and the screen nightly fore- gather, and where culture and refinement, gayety and camara- derie is never found wanting. Featuring the _ fa- mous and inimitable MISS MARJORIE MOSS and MR. GEORGES FONTANA Reservations Telephones Circle 5106-4893 JEAN BILLIA Maitre d’ Hatel FRANK P. FORD Manager EPICUREAN ADVENTURES IN NEW YORK EW York is a hostess supreme. Each time that one sits at her board, it is a new adventure. In other cities, dining away from home is a matter of following the beaten path to the three or four hotels and restau- rants that are recognized as the accepted places to go. One’s friends are sure to be there and one’s friends’ friends, which is very nice if one is in that frame of mind, but can bring no sense of new adventure when it is the zest of difference that is needed to add a savour to the soup. DINING ONE’S MOOD In New York, there is an atmosphere to meet every mood and a menu to charm every taste. Dinner may be an affair of elegance in a subdued restau- rant where the carte du jour lists every delicacy known to culinary science and the waiters are genii with soft voices; or it may be approached in a spirit of gaiety, with dancing diversions between every course. One may make a selection from dishes of all nations—onion soup au gratin, prepared by an incompa- rable French chef; ravioli made by an Italian maestro of the kitchen; curry prepared by an East Indian with a powder sent from Hawaii. One may dine in a miraculous hurry at a hotel where the service is an impossible feat of efficiency or in a restaurant where leisure is a virtue and selecting the din- ner takes a conference of at least half an hour. A panorama of restaurants is spread out; one has but to choose and be charmed. Suppose it is eight o’clock of a star- lit evening, about this time of the year. with the first exciting tang of autumn in the air. A motor draws up in East Sixtieth Street, and a lady and gentleman in evening dress enter it. Mr. and Mrs. Hartley Knox have decided to dine down-town. Raoul knows their des- tination without direction, and they go smoothly down the Avenue to stop be- fore’a restaurant entrance of austere elegance. The door-man greets them with a restrained welcome, the head waiter himself ushers them to a table, the assistant head waiter stands to take their order—the strained borsch is es- pecially good this evening; the chef has experimented with a new sauce for the fillet of sole that Mr.Knox might care to try; hearts of palm are at their best at this season. While Mr. Knox is or- dering, Mrs. Knox bows to acquain- tances. Dinner is served and goes through its course in an atmosphere of pleasant elegance, of cultivated, dis- criminating taste. The scene progresses down-town. A self-styled “group of six” has foregath- ered for its weekly dinner at its favour- ite restaurant. Madame, whoknows them all, is waiting on them herself to-night to see that they get an extra portion of the famous broccoli cooked in oil and is reminiscing of the good old days when stimulants flowed freely and con- versation kept pace with them. Soon, a dusky musician will come in with his banjo-mandolin to sit in the corner and strum heart-breaking melodies, and sen- timental thoughts will envelop the din- ers who sit contentedly wafting the smoke of their precious after-dinner cigarettes to the ceiling. The scene changes to Broadway, or just around the corner. A slim blonde girl and a tall brown lad are down in New York “on a week-end” from col- lege. They are dining because one must eat, but dinner is a smallest concern. The music starts. “Park that in the oven till this dance is over, will you please?” the young gentleman settles the fate of the fillet mignon as they start out on the dance floor. “One of the few places in town that keeps their good music during dinner—you can work in three or four good dances be- tween tea and the theatre.” After the dance, a revue. “Good act,” is the suc- cinct criticism, “but I’d rather dance.” Not so ‘the bald-headed gentleman from out of town who has been pro- gressing faithfully and joyfully through the courses of the long table d’héte menu and to whom the revue represents the climax of the evening, a sparkling point in a hazy, but enchanting week of New York at night. THE SCENE CHANGES At a leisurely pace, the scene goes down-town again. Two elderly gentle- men of the old-school type, impeccable in dress, cultivated in bearing, meet in the lobby of a hotel and progress to the dining-room, where a small table in the corner has the air of waiting in read- iness for the moment when they appear. They have been following this same pro- cedure five evenings of each week for the last ten years. They order a care- fully selected dinner and eat leisurely, seeming a part of the quiet, established atmosphere of the place. Later, they will go out on the covered porch for coffee before they join a game of cards. The scene could change endlessly. Given any personality, New York has a restaurant to suit it, and then many more to spare! If you are planning a trip to New York and wish to visit a particular type of restaurant, Vogue will be glad to fur- nish you with the name and address of the sort you desire. B. F. MQAAAAAGA AA The Resort of Fashion and the Epicure Cuisine under E. PETITBENOIT of old Delmonico’s Special Luncheon $2.50 and a la carte Dinner Dancing 7:30 to 10:30 Supper Dancing 11 until 2 Meyer Davis Lipo Venice Orcuestra 35 East 53rd Street Plaza 3374 THE MADISON RESTAURANT 15 East 58th Street Is now prepared to accept reserva- tions of the Private Dining Rooms for Luncheons, Teas, Dinners and other social functions. Theodore Titzé Manager Telephone Regent 4000 HEN the new season finds you half-ready; when you need a hat in a hurry or have seven minutes in which to buy a wrap for the new gown, don’t waste precious seconds in flurry. Drive to one of the Shops of Vogue and nine times out of ten, you’ll find there just the exquisite thing that your soul craved—and the gown commanded. Vincent Lopez Conducting It’s in the Grill Room of Hotel Pennsylvania that he leads his own orchestra for you to dance to at dinner (no cover charge till after 9:30) and at supper. His popularity is deserved. The Pennsylvania is a Statler-operated hotel, under the same management as the four HOTELS STATLER in CLEVELAND Another Hotel Statler is now building at Boston BUFFALO DETROIT ST.LOUIS HERE’S no peace for Woman- kind, this year, unless her cos- tume is a harmonious whole—gloves, hat, stockings, shoes, bag, jewels and furs, all meant to walk the Ways of the World together. You’ll find that shopping in the Shops of Vogue will give you the satisfaction that comes of knowing oneself perfectly dressed. Vv

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44 Fe HOw ¥ VQBUE nn BOSTON Sconce of hand-wrought brass and iron, 14” high; blue, green, or crystal mirror Price $25, wired, without bulb. Bigelow, Kennard & Co." Fewelers Est. 1830 Silversmiths WEST & WASHINGTON STREETS BOSTON LPHollarver @ 202 Boylston St. Boston Present For the Patronage of Bostons Smartest Clientele Ladies’ and Misses Dresses~Coats~Suits Hats Sports Clothes of Distinction Accessories Constantly renewing Choice Dorisian Styles Hollander orignality Moderate prices ESTABLISHED 1618 C@CLOTHINGS Gentlemens Furnishing Goods, MADISON AVENUE COR. FORTY-FOURTH STREET NEW YORK . BOSTON LITTLE BUILDING Telephone Beach 4743 ~ Clothes for Fall ce Winter PALM BEACH PLAZA BUILOING Cevunrtr Rese NEWPORT AUORAIN BUILOING 220 Bcucvvt Avenve BOSTON PHILADELPHIA Deaths Births Abbott.—On August 29, Fletcher Morton Abbott. Bradlee.—On August 31, Arthur Tisdale Bradlee. Higginson.—On August 19, Francis Lee Higginson, husband of Corina Shattuck Hig- ginson. Matteson.—On August 14, at Providence, Rhode Island, Charles Matteson. Rotch.—On August 14, William Rotch, husband of Mary R. Eliot Rotch. Engagements Weld-Hunter.—Miss Margaret Weld, daughter of Mrs. C. Minot Weld, to Dr. Frank T. Hunter. Weddings Bidwell-Eldredge.—On September 2, in Trinity Church, Concord, Massachusetts, Mr. Raymond Brewer Bidwell, son of Mrs. Lawson Brewer Bidwell, of Brookline, Massa- chusetts, and Mrs. Arthur Stewart Eldredge, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Robert Shaw Sturgis. Brigham-King.—On September 21, in Saint Michael’s Church, Milton, Massachu- setts, Mr. Lincoln Flagg Brigham, son of Mrs. Lincoln Forbes Brigham, and Miss Dorothy King, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Tarrant P. King, of Milton, Massachusetts. Stickney-Preston.—On August 29, in All Saints Episcopal Church, Chicago, Illinois, Mr. Charles Alpheus Stickney, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles A. Stickney, of Saint Paul, Minnesota, and Miss Emily Therese Preston, of Boston, Massachusetts. Tappan-Brown.—On June 13, at the Charles River Country Club, Mr. Herrick Ogden Tappan, son of Mr. and Mrs. Walter House Tappan, and Miss Eugene Brown, daughter of Mrs. George W. Brown, of New- ton Center, Massachusetts. Brown.—On August 25, to Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence A. Brown (Agnes T. Packard), a daughter. Clay.—On August 16, to Mr. and Mrs. Edward Biddle Clay (Katherine Gossler), a son, Edward Biddle Clay, junior. Curtis.—On August 22, to Mr. and Mrs. Harry L. Curtis (Pansy Scott), a son, Harry L. Curtis, junior. ' Drayton.—On August 9, to Mr. and Mrs. John Welsh Drayton (Charlotte Rush), a daughter, Mary Drayton. Harrison.—On August 12, to Mr. and Mrs. H. Norris Harrison (Marjorie M. Butler), a son, Christopher Norris Harrison. Melcher.—On August 26, to Mr. ana Mrs. William Cramp Melcher, junior, (Cla- rissa Smythe), a daughter. Oberholtzer.—On August 7, to Mr. and Mrs. Charles H. Oberholtzer (Beatrice H. Cerboni), a son, Wendell Woodward Ober- holtzer. Wigton.—On May 30, at Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to Mr. and Mrs. John Lloyd Wigton (Fredericka Fleming Richardson), a son, John Lloyd Wigton, junior. . . Wright.—On August 7, to Mr. and Mrs. Minturn T. Wright, junior, (Anna H. Moss), a son, Minturn T. Wright, third. Wright.—On August 15, to Mr. and Mrs. William Jenks Wright (Alberte V. Bicknell), a son, Ernest Bicknell Wright. Engagements Brick-Ringe.—Miss May Da Costa Brick, daughter of the late Dr. Joseph Coles Brick and Mrs. Brick, to Mr. Thomas Biddle Kenil- worth Ringe, son of Mr. and Mrs. John Henry Ringe, of Germantown, Pennsylvania. Weddings Coulter-Biddle.—On August 12, at Fort Des Moines, Iowa, Captain Harold Coulter, son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Coulter, ‘of Ox- ford, Connecticut, and Miss Frances W. P. Biddle, daughter of Colonel David Harmony Biddle and Mrs. Biddle. VOGUE Fee JAW of VQGUE PHILADELPHIA EN Sas") Coat ARMOUR OF GENERAL GEORGE WASHINGTON One of the important records among the collec- tion of over two thousand authenticated indices of Coat Armour of leading families in America compiled by this Establishment! The undoubted prestige established by the use of Coat Armour on Personal Stationery, the Family Silver, Jewelry and Equipages is fully recognized. The Department of Heraldry offers to patrons the services of the best Heraldic De- signers in America. The Handbook of rules for the proper uses of Heraldry in America will be mailed postpaid upon receipt of fifty cents. BAILEY, BANKS &? BIDDLE CO. JEWELERS, SILVERSMITHS, STATIONERS Established 1832 PHILADELPHIA ARISIENNES manifestly —hats by Reboux, gowns that derive their patent of nobility from Chanel. But all their friends know they haven't been twenty miles from Rittenhouse Square for months. They do their shopping on Chestnut and Walnut Streets, with Vogue under their left arms, and the Shops of Vogue in Philadelphia as their ports of call. TYPICAL Thayer McNeil value in patent leather, black or brownsuede, and black or brown satin. Mail orders filled carriage free. THAYER McNEIL COMPANY 414 Boylston St., Boston FUFS Philadel phiae Chestnut at Fhirteenth & Lorem HE last butterfly is dying in the country lanes. But the Town-Butterflies, this month, are discarding country-chrysales, and emerging—radiant—in the velvets, brocades, lamés, of the New Season. If you are a Town-Butterfly, the Shops of Vogue are ready with a complete outfitting of wings for you. “Robes, chapeaux, et manteaux.” New as tomorrow’s sunrise. Col- ourful as tomorrow’s sunset. Dif- ferent—as night is from day. For these Shops of Vogue cater to the woman who must—who will— dress better than nine-tenths of the rest of the world. Oi of Gh He I= es 7 of new: Shop velve Cind dere] dawr dinn of t bette a et tee a 9 SAA Se

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Real HINGTON e collec- | indices America ' the use ery, the is fully ry offers Idic De- uses of postpaid 5 ). CNERS $$$ $$ stly wns of hey iles for on ets, left gue orts ag in t the , ae and -Ivets, eason. , the ‘ith a r you. saux.” Col- Dif- ter to will— yf the October 15, 1925 Te JHOW of VAGUE DETROIT GOO NO PONS FOF POP KOVGySRONONERGO) ror COATS or EXCLUSIVE FASHION MISSES AND WOMEN B: 5) IFGELG mh SOOOWAR 6 STATE 00 conmacTion wrmn serv OMEA ND now—the Season. Formal- ity returns. The demi-toilettes of summertime. dead as yesterday’s newspaper. If you seek, in the Shops of Vogue, for your furs, your velvets, your ostrich plumes, your Cinderella slippers that, unlike Cin- derella’s, dare dance far into the dawn, you will find new joy in dinners and dances—the special joy of the woman who knows herself better dressed than her neighbor. See OCUEs CHICAGO DETROIT CHICAGO Births Births Carhartt.—On August 27, to Mr. and Mrs. Wylie Welling Carhartt (Gretchen Stearns), a daughter, Gretchen Stearns Car- hartt. Farr.—On August 17, to Mr. and Mrs. Lee Merton Farr (Edna D. Staib), a daughter, Emma Christine Farr. Sloane.—On August 19, to Mr. and Mrs. George Sloane (Elva A. Farr), a daughter, Martha Farr Sloane. Smith.—On August 26, to Mr. and Mrs. Clark Drake Smith (Elizabeth A. McDonald), a daughter, Sarah Drake Smith. Stanton.—On August 30, to Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Newman Stanton (Constance W. Blauvelt), a son, Warren Blauvelt Stanton. Walker.—On August 2, to Dr. Roger V. Walker and Mrs. Walker (Helen Frances Reade), a son, Roger V. Walker, junior. Deaths Leonard.—In September, at New York, Helen Blakeslee Leonard, wife of the late C. Henri Leonard. Sibley.—On August 5, at Santa Barbara, California, Katherine Whipple Sibley. Wormer.—On September 1, at Hollywood, California, Frederick F. Wormer, husband of Frances Copland Wormer. Berry.—On August 8, to Lieutenant Albert G. Berry, junior, and Mrs. Berry (Marion Blatchford), a daughter. Lee.—On August 22, to Dr. William George Lee and Mrs. Lee (Mary A. Morgan), a daughter. Ripple.—On August 5, to Mr. and Mrs. Wenken Ripple (Bertha Honoré), a daughter, Honoré Ripple. Deaths Keith.—On September 1, at Baltimore, Maryland, Walter Woodruff Keith, husband of Frances Winchester Brown Keith. Lawson.—On August 19, Victor F. Law- son. Moorhouse.—On August 17, at Trout Lake, Wisconsin, William R. Moorhouse. Ribot.—On August 19, at Chaplan, France, Mary Burch Ribot, wife of the late Alexandre Ribot. Sheriff.—On August 5, at Paris, France, Marguerite Mitchell Sheriff, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. William H. Mitchell. Waters.—On August 20, at Wareham, Massachusetts, William Otis Waters, hus- band of Anna Freeman Waters. Engagements Engagements Briggs-Robinson.—Miss Grace Mary Briggs, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Walter O. Briggs, to Mr. W. Dean Robinson, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick James Robinson, of Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. Kirtland-Jones.—Miss Cornelia Frances Kirtland, daughter of Dr. John Copeland Kirtland and Mrs. Kirtland, of Exeter, New Hampshire, to Mr. Edwin Olney Jones, son of Mrs. Norman Marriott Jones, of Grosse Pointe, Michigan. Lewis-Miller.—Miss. Elizabeth Palms Lewis, daughter of Mrs. Alexander Ingersoll Lewis, to Captain William James Miller, son of Mr. and Mrs. John T. Miller, of London, England. Smith-Sullivan.—Miss Virginia Adams Smith, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Daniel W. Smith, to Mr. Charles Collins Sullivan, son of Mr. and Mrs. John R. Sullivan. Eaton-Salisbury.—Miss Isabel Wilmot Eaton, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William H. Eaton, of Pittsfield, Massachusetts, to Mr. Kimball Salisbury, son of Mrs. Warren M. Salisbury, of Pittsfield, Massachusetts, and Chicago, Illinois. Lasley - Young.— Miss Ruth Lasley, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Montgomery Las- ley, of Detroit, Michigan, to Mr. B. Botsford Young, son of Mrs. Caryl Young. Peck - Hopkins.— Miss Dorothy Peck, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Herbert Peck, of Syracuse, New York, to Mr. James Mac- Henry Hopkins, junior, son of Mr. James MacHenry Hopkins. Williamson-Day.—Miss Isabel G. Wil- liamson, daughter of Dr. Charles Spencer Williamson and Mrs. Williamson, to Mr. Lewis Andrew Day, son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Lewis Day. Furs - Authoritative in Chicago— Wraps - JOHN SHAYNESE. MICHIGAN AT RANDOLPH Gowns 45 tee [HOY of VALUE “CHICAGO CrasAStevens-& Bros CHICAGO Smartly New and Distinctive Millinery OUR COLLECTION OF FINE «GY CHINESE LAMPS, INK POTS, READING GLASSES, CIGAR LIGHTERS, AND | if . B] CIGARETIES it if i He BOXES, ARE IN JADE,CRYSTAL, " ROSE QUARTZ AND AGATE, i il MANY Each pieceisa individual and a real work of art. Sketches sent on request. Thee Fane Co. FURNITURE, DECORATIONS 201-207 NortH MIcHIGAN Ave. Here Is Presented Sans America’s Smartest Footwear BSS = xB Pee ES_IeA aa >! CHWOLFELT CO ,. 58-60-62 East Madison Street . CHICAGO, ILLINOIS » py Always Something New for the Follower of Footwear Fashion

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46

See JHOP of VASUE CALIFORNIA

oreen Bowrnwe

ANTIQUE & MODERN TEXTILES POTTERY FURNITURE RUGS MURAL MAPS ? athered fom. aris to incle COLLEGE AVENUE ct WEBSTER STREET BERKELEY rr CALIFORNIA

F< CMrs. George W Nickel } Chan Francisco Burlingame CALIFORNIA

540 Sutter Street @ 1137 Douglas -

H.LIEBES & CO. nant Ave. at Post St-San francisco ecdcard taeareheanitn eet iti tie at a ee

—=a

LOS ANGELES SAN FRANCISCO

Births Births

Corby.—In Augus‘, to Mr. and Mrs. Grant W. Corby (Babbs sinsworth), a daughter, Annette Corby. Grace.—In August, to Mr. and Mrs. How- ard Lionel Grace (Kathleen Kelly), a daugh- ter, June Mary Grace.

Taylor.—On August 13, to Mr. and Mrs. John M. Taylor (Catherine Minerva Cheney), a son,

Deaths Dunn.—On August 22, William E. Dunn, husband of Nellie M. Briggs Dunn.

Weddings

Bundy-Flowers.—On September 5, at Paris, France, Mr. Robert Bundy, son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Leroy Bundy, and Miss Marjorie Flowers, daughter of Mrs. Marcus Edwin Flowers. Hunter-Truax.—On September 19, Mr. Robert Hunter, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hunter, of Pebble Beach, California, and Miss Margaret E. Truax, daughter of Mrs. Frederick William Griffith, of Pasadena, California. Liebig-Eshman.—On August 20, in Saint John’s Episcopal Church, Mr. Rudolph Steuart Liebig, son of Mrs. Robert Meade Smith, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and Miss Caroline Eshman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Melville G. Eshman. Eaves.—On July 21, to Dr. James Eaves and Mrs. Eaves (Marion Small), a_ son, Jackson Eaves. Kent.—On July 25, to Mr. and Mrs. Platt Kent (M. Genéviéve Cunningham), a daugh- ter.

Engagements

Powers-de Amours.—Miss Marion Hub- bard Powers, daughter of the late Frank H. Powers, to Marino Dusmet de Amours, son of the Duke and Duchess Dusmet de Amours.

Weddings Caine-Keithley.—On August 20, in Saint Luke’s Church, Mr. Joseph Nightingale Caine, son of Mr. and Mrs. Edgar C. Caine, and Miss Erma Keithley, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edgar A. Keithley. Kirkman-Winkle.—On August 9, Lieu- tenant-Commander Van Leer Kirkman and Miss Dorothy Winkle, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. T. A. Winkle. Stevenson-Rolph.—On September 16, in the First Presbyterian Church, Mr. George Stevenson, son of Mr. and Mrs. William M. Stevenson, and Miss Elizabeth Rolph, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. George M. Rolph. Woodworth - Taliaferro.— In August, Captain Wethered Woodworth, son of Mrs. Selim Woodworth, and Miss Henrietta Talia- ferro, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. C. Taliaferro, of Baltimore, Maryland.

sss) FF

She Early Story of California — romantic, colorful, still casts a charm upon the life of modern days; a charm captured in the architecture and deco- rative modes of deligtful homes, (both large small). Home Furnishings to meet the needs of artistic living are found in appropriately selective stocks at Barker Bros. Your request to be placed on the mailing list of “ Better Homes,” which is published frequently dur- ing the year, will be honored with immediate attention. BARKER BROS.

‘= ee 4 Complete Furnishers of Successful Homes BROADWAY between Seventh and Eighth LOS ANGELES

we ar

ee ct er

VOGUE

G fe JOM of VOGUE “ (AUFORNIA |

| Pajama

Suits --for leisure hours 932.50 and °37.50

A smart lounging costume of gloriously colored brocaded Hangchow silk, in the Chinese manner. e Miss Clayes ORIENTAL ARTS 214 Post Street San Francisco, Calif. Sante Barbara Los Angeles Correspondence Invited

Dry Goods Store in Los Angeles simtlar to the best you patronize in the Gast

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October 15, 1925 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU

Winter in this Lovely Southland For the Children’s Sake They'll lose nothing in educational advancement, for here are schools, both public and private, of the very highest grade. Glorious, healthful sunshine, pure air, outdoor ex- ercise, good appetites, and sweet, sound sleep. Robust bodies, rosy cheeks,—the finest natural tonic known!

R mothers too—there never was a Horse-back riding, tennis, golf—all the rest like this. The winter worries about winter through. Football, baseball, polo—

health, the complications due to ice and snow, are gone in Southern California. A little bungalow with plenty of big win- dows. No need to burn expensive coal all day. That helps pay for the trip. Other liv- ing costs no higher than at home. Or a fine hotel where all housekeeping problems are forgotten. On week ends—little family groups mo toring to beaches, mountains, lakes and can- yons. Or to see Old Missions, the desert, orange groves, the great oil fields, the mov- the lovely Tournament of Roses January ist, the colorful National Orange Show in Feb- ruary. A hundred and one new, unique attractions to divert the parents while the children thrive. Accept our invitation and you'll find new joys, new fun. Ask the nearest railroad ticket agent to tell you more about it, or send you illustrat- ed folders; or mail coupon below to us. Spring, Summer, Fall or Winter—South- ern California is the world-renowned, All-

Year resort. Come any time. But definitely ing picture studios. Trips to mountain tops plan this winter for the children’s good. on street cars. Here is education, plus! ern Californi ia

The growth and wealth of Southern California are indicated by the following figures pertaining to the County of Los Angeles alone: Assessed valuation (1925). . . . $2,910,076,088 Agricultural production (1924) . . . 82,588,993 Bank deposits (1925, more than). . 1,000,000,000 Oil production (1924) 120,000,000 barrels

@ Atv-Year Crus or Sournern CAuirorni 2 i Dept. H-10, Chamber of Commerce Bldg, <= Angeles, California. ' I am planning to visit Southern California this winter. Please send me your free booklet about Southern California vacations. Also 3 telling especially of the attractions and opportunities in the counties which I have checked.

Re :

0) San Bernardino

t 0 Los Angeles C Orange 0) Santa Barbara 0 Riverside OC) Ventura

a et ee ee ee ee ee ee

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48 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU VOGUE awaii Come this winter and live among these laughing Hawaiians, true children of the sun. Here within easy reach lies Eden —for all folk who want rest, warmth and new diversions in a romantic land. Book through your nearest rail- way, steamship or travel agency direct to Honolulu. Travel on stately liners 5 to 6 days direct from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Se- attle, Vancouver or Victoria, B. C. Surrounded by modern conveniences and comforts, and with moderate liv- ing costs, you’ll want to enjoy several weeks or months in this smiling terri- tory of the U. S. A. Or make round trip from the Coast in 3 to 4 weeks for $300 to $400, including all travel and incidental cost, a week or two in the Islands and a side trip to Hawaii Na- tional Park. Good golf, tennis, motoring, swim- ming, deep-sea fishing, mountain hik- ing and ample first-class hotels on all islands, Inter-island cruising. If you are thinking of visiting Hawaii this winter and wish descriptive, colored brochure and detailed information, write now— HAWAII TOURIST BUREAU 218 MONADNOCK BLDG., SAN FRANCISCO 347 FORT ST., HONOLULU, HAWAII, U. S. A. California Winter in California is one long June. Roads embroid- ered with roses and orange blossoms. Golf and fishing at their best. Great hotels gay with win- ter visitors —metro- politan cities, shops like those of Paris and the Orient. Handsomeillustrated California book free on request. TIl tell you why | prefer the Los Angeles Limited” “It’s a de luxe train of dignity and quiet beauty. They think of your comfort all the time. Reminds me of my favorite hotel, especially the meals. It runs so smoothly you almost forget that it’s one of the fastest trains to California. There’s scenery that always thrills you, particu- larly the rugged canyons, and Great Salt Lake. “And you always find well-bred, friendly companions, people who know travel refinements.” Los Angeles Limited PREMIER TRAIN TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA Lv. Chicago (C&NW Terminal) 8:00 P. M. Ar. Salt Lake City (2nd day) 2:05 P. M. Ar. Los Angeles (3rd day) 2:00 P. M. For first-class Pullman travel only. Club, observation, library and dining cars. Barber, hairdressing, bath, manicure, valet service and ladies’ maid. Four other fast daily trains to California; two to Denver connecting for California. Excellent through setvice from St. Louis and Kansas City. Any ticket agent or any Union Pacific representa- tive will yladly arrange your trip—or address W. H. MURRAY, General Passenger Agent Omaha, Nebraska UNION PACIFIC Nationally Known as one of Boston’s select hostelries where “Service with a Smile” is a feature. Incomparable location in the juiet and pleasant section of the Back Bay. A favorite with ladies traveling alone. FRANK H. ABBOTT & SON Under direction of Karl P. Abbott Commonwealth Ave. at Dartmouth St. > £2 8 FF © ha NR meme 8 HOTEL ASTOR NEW YORK Times Square—Broadway, 44th & 45th Sts. 'HOTEL ST. JAMES 109-113 West 45th St., New York City Midway between Fifth Avenue and Broadway An hotel of quiet dignity, having the atmos- phere and appointments of a _ well-conditioned home. Much favored by women traveling without escort. 8 minutes’ walk to 40 theatres and all best shops. Rates and booklet on application. W. JOHNSON QUINN | ! HOTEL iBlackstone 50 East 58th Street en as 2 A Quiet Refined Family Hotel in Fashionable Plaza District ONE or MORE ROOMS en Suite Handsomely Furnished Rates Reasonable Ke RESTAURANT Cuisine and Service of Supreme Excellence FW hoopecte ope opoopeche pe ohoopeche : | NEW YORK | : ROYAL MONCEAU HOTEL 35, 37, 39, Avenue Hoche (Champs-Elysées) 250 Rooms PARIS 250 Bath-Rooms THE PLAZA THe Cop.Ley-PLAZA The leading hotels of New York and Boston Str ur orersbure he Sunshine City Hospitality and entertainment await you in the Sunshine City. Located between the Gulf of Mexico and Tampa Bay, St. Petersburg has a climate unsurpassed. Golf, bathing, fishing, boating, and other sports. Magnificent hotels and furnished apart- ments. For booklet and in- formation address: H. R. DILLMAN Cham Oc iz bl al co O; nO Ou 21 W

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Sts. a‘ iS y Jway nos- oned cort. best mL 7 4 | whoepecte =O") Bin MN ehewteote fe proheoteos= 1\m October 15, 1925 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 49 A READER WRITES a letter to the Travel Man, that you may read over his shoulder “The first part of our tour is nearly completed, and before starting on the Ardennes I would like to tell you that all your arrangements were per- fect, and we have not had a moment’s bother or annoy- ance since we left London. We have been extremely comfortable here, and Ma- dame ———— has been more than kind. . . . No one real- izes better than I do the trou- ble that was required to make all these arrangements so complete, and I am sincerely grateful.” On YOUR trip to Europe, why not have all arrangements made... perfectly... with- out extra charge ... by THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 21 West 44th Street New York City For illustrated literature address Red Star Line, No. 1 B’ way; American Express Co., 65 B’way, New York City; or other offices or agencies of either company. N such treasures from foreign lands are writ- ten not only the bright moments of your trav- els and your explorations, but also the histor.es of the world. Tosail ‘round the world—to shop round the world! What fun. And what an ad- venture to tuck beauty into your heart —and your trunk! And what an opportunity to sail on the largest and finest liner to circle the globe, to enjoy the distinction which is accord- ed its travelers wherever they go, to ex- plore the beauties and wonders of the world under the masterful guidance of the American Express Company. The Belgenland is a ship of unusual charm. Glass enclosed decks. Turkish Largest and Finest Liner Ever to Circle the Globe RED STAR LIN’ in bibs Heart of Palm Beach ill offer Accommodations of a Character not hitherto Available lhe Alba. ~ PALM BEACH NEW YORK OFFICE 277 Park Avenue Murray Hill 5200 bath, swimming bath. Hairdressers, mani- curists and experienced stewardesses ren- der a deft and attentive service. An a la carte cuisine of faultless excellence, and, permeating all, an atmosphere distinctly and pleasingly Continental. 132 days 60 cities 14 countries Sailing Westward from New York November 25 Los Angeles December 11 inehurst In the Fragrant Pines of NORTH CAROLINA Ghe Winter Country (lub San Francisco December 14 for People of Affairs Back in New York April 6, 1926 "Liana oo 05 Peamneow CAROLINA HOTEL Stow cc set Reopens October 26th with a full program of sports MAKE RESERVATIONS NOW Address: General Office, Pinehurst, N. C. INTERNATIONAL MERCANTILE MARINE COMPANY In Cooperation with AMERICAN EXPRESS COMPANY No. 1 Broadway, New York City Illustrated booklet on request

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. ct 50 VOGUE e EI Eq Excell ice-sk P OME TCD B ie eh 8 I ——— + — a nee - ~ _— ———- - ————— : == =— —— — 3 —— NEW YORK—Girls 1 SCOVILLE SCHOOL 1006 Fifth Avenue, New York A Day and Boarding School for Girls ee All grades and courses with intensive College-pre- oc paratory training. Catalogue on Request oo 00 for cat Zz FINCH SCH2°L a A Boarding and Day School for Girls, a emphasizing post-graduate work For gil Hy ri 61 East 77th Street, New York City LASELL SEMINARY Lae Overlooking beautiful village of Auburndale— and cra! GARDNER SCHOOL . — from Boston. 30 acres, 15 ee ae addres ¢ x 3 -, ‘ a complete course oi the care and management o, Box 11 East 5lst Street, New York City the home and family. Unusial tyeining i music _ A thorough school with delightful home life. with concert work, Secretarial, Art, Teacher BE College preparatory, academic, secretarial, elec- Training ci:d College Prebaratory Courses. d tive courses. Music. Outdoor svorts. 69th year. Indoor and outdoor athletics. Gymnasium and ; swimming pool. Horseback riding a feature. Contin Booklet. Junior MPI E S = GUY M. WINSLOW, Ph.D., Principal Splend nd 126 Woodland Read. Auburndale, Massachusetts Jenkin College Preparatory. Post Graduate. Languages, Art, Music and Dramatie Art. Outdoor Recreation. Mrs. T. Darrinaton Semple, Principal 241-242 Central Park West. Box V. New York City HOUSE IN THE PINES 12 Pine Street, Norton, Mass. A school for Girls, 30 miles from Boston. College AR ¢ M oO UNT Tarrytown-on- preparatory and general courses. Outdoor activities, 4 Hudson, N. Y. Horseback riding emphasized. Courses—Four Years College, Two-Year Miss Gertrude E. Cornish, Principal Finishing, Academic, ‘Two-Year Pre-Academic, Domestic Science, Secretarial, Gymnasium, Stadium Brant hur tatatgte aon" sve Meher EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN HOWARD SEMINARY 43d year. A famous old New England country school q BRIARCLIFF for girls. Accredited. Preparation for all colleges. TT Mrs. Dow’s School for Girls, Mr, and Mrs. George W. Emerson, Principals, VI General and College Preparatory Courses. aa . P : 70 Howard Street, West Bridgewater, Massachusetts. j For G Music and Art with New York advantages. Through some accident of illness, or other unusual cir- : te Be Mrs. EpIrH CoopeER HARTMAN, B. S., Principal BRIARCLIFF MANOR, N. Y. cumstances, children occasionally fall behind their fel- Kendall Hall for Girls Youn GER “Che Castle lows in school. They are sensitive about it, and the ACCREDITED. Intensive College Preparatory. — wera Management Bagge me wintry : M: 4 1)? : Soston. Riding, tennis, skiing, skating. 5 5 Miss Mason's School backwardness increases. The child’s life may be warped agp ag Bag ag eg oy hy ; tt for Girls a. > Box 731 Tarrytown-on-Hudson. NewYor! unless measures are taken in time. NORTH AMPTON hold igh land Manor There are charming homes and schools where children Four Year prec Mig Bay ay Smith College. KID One year intensive course for high school graduates. Non-Sectarian Country School for Gi ° coe 4 oe 4 " : r ot courses to fit special needs. Ar Ory Sous Fair Cag Girls, Al of this type are given individual instruction by specially MRS. V. N. LUCIA, Secretary, Northampton, Mass. tanet ugene ehman, ‘ ' ; Tarrytown-on- Hudson a.” ‘ene trained teachers. Children who are deficient funda- ' . to an ll h os d ey ee CENTRAL ATLANTIC—Girls Smit The School mentally are taught painting, dressmaking, basketry, tw | e for Girl : di Some schools tak or Urls weaving, and other handicrafts. Some schools take care School for Girl i ? Kent Place School for Girls For College Preparatory, Advanced Academic Courses ‘ . . SUMMIT, NEW JERSEY with Music, Art, Horseback Riding. Winter Sports. of one type of mind, some another. The child is always An Endowed AiiacTh:rtieth Your Art, Mrs. Russell Houghton, Box V, Cooperstown, N. Y. 4 . Ston ; . On the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the _ : made to feel that he is a useful member of society. Hills of New Jersey twenty miles from — NEW ENGLAND—Gir!s New York. —_ COLLEGE PREPARATORY CT] GLEN EDE For High-school Girls Musi — — Athletics or Graduates Ask us to recommend the school you MISS HARRIET ‘LARNED HUNT ll Suburban to New York City, 50 minutes from Fifth need. We have visited it personally and Principal Cour Avenue. Small classes; athletics; social culture. Ex- . . F.E quisite equipment. For catalogue and views address can speak from first-hand knowledge a an Director of Glen Eden Stamford, Conn. S C HOOL FA SOUTHFIELD POINT HALL FOR GIRLS = For girls. On Long Island Sound. Intermediate, The Conde Nast Educational Bureau om, Pn omy cn Special Finishing Courses. gran College Preparatory, Secretarial and General d hietics, Gymnasium, Tennis, Riding. For ee Muste. maethak me rg Gutdene life Write for illustrated booklets. Catalog on request 2109 speci: eature. atalog. Jessie Callam Grav. ‘ H - mats B.A., Principal, 8 Davenport Drive, Stamford, Conn. Vecgue Vanity Fair House & Garden Miss E. S. Creighton, Principal. Enalewood, N. J. = W Che ELY SCHOOL Miss Bearp’s ScHoo. Nea Si Coll For Girls. Greenwich, Conn. 21 West 44th Street New York City A COUNTRY SCHOOL NEAR NEW YORK vers ORANGE, NEW JERSEY Mil In the country. One hour from New York. : ar School of the HILLSIDE Norwalk, Conn. OAK KNOLL Holy Child Sl , L For Girls Blackburn Road Summit, N. J. For 45 miles from New York. Prepara- School for Girls. College Preparatory and Elemen- Mu a ot college SS eee : a — Colleges at Rosemont, Pa., and = eneral courses rganized athletics. : * Oxford, England. MargaretR. ee (Vv oneen) \ Prins NEW ENGLAND—Girls NEW ENGLAND—Girls Finishing Schools: Paris Rome Fribourg LO Vida Hunt Francis, A. B. (Smith O ORES nx CHOATE SCHOOL PINE MANOR |BRADFORD ACADEMY|(jARRISON, FOREST 8 —_—_, ped gh ng lh Be A school for home Fa age = Ree ~~ 2 anes me Bradford, Mass. Modern, well-equipped. In the beautiful Green Jun Beth eag? Onde cae As : raduates of secondary schools. gher cultura . 8 Fasten an a tory, ral Courses. - ag ocrs — wr iia siiion with emphasis on subjects pertaining to | Junior College. Three years’ College Pre- tocar gg Re omg Ane nidiags Ca ugusta jeate, Vassar, Principa home management. Catalog. H MISS MARY M. LIVINGSTON, Box V, Garrison, Md. — ‘600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Massachusetts Miss Helen Temple Cooke, Son Hall, Wellesley, Mass, | P@tatory and Special Courses. 122nd year. BI 7 i : Ce Sch Miss Hall’s School ROGERS HALL seein THE MACDUFFIE SCHOOL Mary Gon School mi . Coll reparatory, general courses. Wildeliff, sei ’ College Preparatory and Graduate Cou Dr. and Mrs. John MacDuffie the graduate school. Seven. Gables, girls 6-12. ba Pittsfield, Massachusetts ‘gies Ghaue iseld Heomenn. a SPRINGFIELD,MASSACHUSETTS | Catalogs. Mr. and Mrs. H. M. Cfist, Prins., x 1509, Swarthmore, Pa.

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ile— ings. nt of USEC cher and ure. etts ES lege ities, —__« Y choo] leges. pals, setts, rls tory. from tes. i) a | ne | ed | October 15, 1925 Sl CENTRAL ATLANTIC—Girls SOUTHERN—Girls NEW ENGLAND—Boys TUTORING—CO-EDUCATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE HOLY CHILD JESUS School for Girls Sharon Hill, Pa. Elementary, Middle, College Preparatory Resident and Day Pupils Equipment unsurpassed. Trained teachers. Excellent athletics—riding, tennis, basket-ball, ice-skating, hockey team undefeated. Finishing Schools Switzerland Paris Rome Address: Mother Superior WARD-BELMONT For Girls and Young Women Ward-Belmont combines highest academic training and advantages of extensive grounds and equipment with that much-sought-for Southern culture and refinement. Six-year course of study embracing two years of college. For information address WARD-BELMONT Belmont Heights, Box 10, Nashville, Tenn. HIGHLAND. HALL College Preparatory. General Courses. Unusual Program of Outdoor Life. Hollidaysburg, Pa. ELLEN C. KEATES, A. B., Principal BISHOPTHORPE For Girls In Mts. near New York. Graduates enter all certificate colleges without exams. Practical courses; Finishing. H. 8. & Jr. College. New Gym and pool. CATALOG. C. V. Wyant, Bethlehem, Pa. OGONTZ SCHOOL for Girls On the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Est. 1850. Rydal, Junior Department. Send for catalog. Miss Abby Sutherland, Prin., Ogontz School, Montgomery Co., Pa. MRS. CASKIN’S SCHOOL For girls. Eight miles from Philadelphia. College preparatory, academic and vocational courses, Spe- cial advantages in music. Physical training. Arts andcrafts. 14 acres. New Domestic Science Building. Address Mrs. Langdon Caskin Box 103 BEAVER COLLEGE semen Continuing the work of Beechwood, General and Junior College courses with Diploma and Degree. Splendid equipment. Catalog. Address Registrar, Jenkintown, Fa. Haverford, Pa. WESTERN—Girls ELMHURST College Preparatory and Graduate Courses. Direc- tion of Kastern ‘Teachers with European training. Horseback riding. All Sports. Miss Isabel Cressler, Miss Caroline Sumner, Connersville, Ind. FERRY HALL (2,283 tory school of the first rank, advanced courses for high school grad- uates. Suburban to Chicago on shore of Lake Michi- gan. Gymnasium, pool, horseback riding. Catalog. Miss Eloise R. Tremain, Prin. Box 326, Lake Forest, Ill. LINDENWOOD COLLEGE Founded 1827 50 minutes from St. Louis. Standard College for Young Women, 2 and 4 year courses. Home Econom- ics, Business, Music. Gymnasium, Pool. Catalog, J. L. Roemer, Pres., Box 425, St. Charles, Mo. OR LAL School for Girls. College Preparatory. General Course. Music. Art. Meeseet Miss FREDONIA ALLEN, Indianapolis PACIFIC—Girls & = Diy ' oo" ee ~TLARCUM = Suburban to Philadelphia, _Teorough College Preparation, Music, and Art. All Sports—Riding, For Catalog address: The Secretary, Box V, Bryn Mawr, Pa. SOUTHERN—Girls Eee VIRGINIA COLLEGE For Girls. In the famous Valley of Virginia. | Four years Preparatery, Elective and full Junior College Courses. Music, Art, Expression, Home Economics, Journalism. Secretarial and Library work. Riding, Golf, Tennis. Box V, Roanoke, Va. e e Martha Washington Seminary for girls. City and country advantages. Junior Collegiate and High School forms. College Preparatory, House- hold Science. Secretarial Science, Music, Art, Expres- sion. Address Secretary, Oakcrest, Washington, D. C. KING-SMITH STUDIO-SCHOOL A residential school for young women. Musi CUMNOCK SCHOOL An old California day and resident school with beautiful new buildings. School of Expression (Col- lege Grade) Voice and Diction; Literary Interpreta- tion; Story-telling; Dramatics; Journalism; Music Dept. Academy and Junior School. Write for Cat- alog E. Helen A. Brooks, A. M., Director 5353 West Third Street, Los Angeles WESTLAKE SCHOOL for GIRLS An ideal school in an ideal location. Junior College; College Preparatory: separate school for younger girls. Music, Art, Expression, Home Economics. Swimming pool. Write for Catalog B. 333 S.Westmoreland Ave., Los Angeles, Cal. ———————————————— NEW YORK—Boys SSINING-ON-HUDSON, Prepares Boys for College and Business. Military training. Athletics. Separate school for boys under 13. William Addison Ranney, A.M., Prin. c, languages, dancing, dramatic art; any art, demic or college subject may be elected. Tuition according to amount of work taken. Mr. & Mrs. August King- Smith, 1751 New Hampshire Ave., Washington, D.C. The Misses Stone’s School For a_ limited number of girls. Advanced course with History of Art and French, Secretarial Course, Art, Music. Preparation for Travel. Miss Isabelle Stone, Ph.D. and Harriet Stone, M.S., 1700 Rhode Island Ave., N. W., Washington, D. C. Chevy Chase School For girls, Last years of High School; two-year advanced course. Emphasis on music, art, drama. Country life; advantages of the national capital. F.E. FARRINGTON, Ph.D., BoxV, Washington,D.C. FAIRMONT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 26th Year. Preparatory courses and eight two-year courses for which Junior College diplomas are granted. Educational advantages of National Capital. For catalog, address FAIRMONT SCHOOL, 2109 S Street Washington, D. C. Country WARRENTON ™ Near Washington in beautiful Piedmont Valley. College preparatory, general courses. French con- versation prevails. Home atmosphere. Girls learn to study and know nature. Catalogue. Mile. Lea M. Bouligny, Box 18, Warrenton, Va. M ~~ me - U S Saint John’s School College Preparatory. Thoroughiy equipped. Business course. Well ordered athletics. Junior School. Catalog. Gen. Wm. Verbeck, President, Box 1310, Manlius, N. Y. REPTON SCH@L Meets the reguirements Of the youn. For boys 6 to 14, English University Masters. Prepares for best college prep. schools. V. Willoughby Barrett, Headmaster Box V, Tarrytown, N. Y. tre STORM KING Schoot formerly The STONE SCHOOL Established 1667 A Progressive Cellege Preparatory School. 50 Miles from New York. Attractive Outdoor Life. Catalo, ALVAN E. DUERR, Cornwall-on-Hudson, New Yor NEW ENGLAND—Boys WESTMINSTER SCHOOL Simsbury, Conn. Raymond Richards MacOrmond, Headmaster SULLINS COLLEGE Bristot, Virginia For Girls. High School and Junior College Courses. Music, Secretarial, Domestic Science, etc. New buildings; every room connecting bath. Swimming Pool, Horseback riding. Mountain climate. CATA- LOG of: W. E. Martin, Ph.D., Pres., Box H. ational Park Seminary For girls. Suburbs of Washington, D. C. 2-year Junior college course. Music, Art, Home Economics, Expressicn, Secretarial. College Preparatory. Riding. Catalog. Box 173, Forest Glen, Maryland. BRENAU COLLEGE CONSERVATORY Select patronage 30 states: location foothills Biue Ridge Mts. North of Atlanta, Standard A.B. course: special advantages music, oratory, art, domestic . Dhysieal culture. Swimming, boating, horse- back riding. Catalog and illustrated book. Address BRENAU, Box G, Gainesville, Ga. De Motte School An hour from New York City. Wholesome school life. Thorough training. Upper and Lower School. New school building and gymnasium, All year round sports. Laurence Washburn De Motte, Norwalk, Connecticut Allen-Chalmers A Country School for Boys Military Regularity. Upper and Lower Schools. Thomas Chalmers, 441 Waltham St., W. Newton, Mass. De Witt Clinton °y), A Boarcing and Day School Prepares for College and Technical. School JouN B. HEBBERD, Cotton St., NEWTON, MAss. ROX BURY ! A Special Type of Boarding School Sound Instruction by the Tutorial Method A. V. Sheriff, Headmaster, Cheshire, Conn. CENTRAL ATLANTIC—Boys A College Preparatory B L A I R School for Boys Founded 1848, Imposing buildings, fully equipped. Thorough instruction. Lower School for younger boys. Endowed. Write for catalog. JOH . SHARPE, LL.D., Headmaster Box K, Blairstown, N. J. MILITARY BORDENTOWN iAgiitht Thorough preparation for college or business. Kfficient_ faculty, small classes, individual atten- tion. Boys taught how to study. Supervised athletics. 41st year. Catalogue. Col. T. D. Landon, Principal and Commandant, Drawer C-13, Borden- town-on-the-Delaware, N. J. Emphasis on preparation for College Entrance Board Kxaminations. Boys from 30 states. Graduates in 26 colleges. 15 modern buildings. 60 acres. Athletics for every boy. Six Forms including two grammar grades. 60thyear. Catalog. Box 10V, Hightstown, N.J. FREEHOLD #4 SCHOOL for boys 7 to 15. Modified military training—in- culeates obedience, orderliness, self reliance. The school with the personal touch. Write for Catalog. Address Major Chas. M. Duncan, Box 109, Freehold, N. J. One of the best known pre- paratory schools for boys. Su- OM perior appointments; unex- celled faculty. Supervised athletics; swimming pool; golf course. Heavy endowment permits low tuition. Catalog. Murray Peabody Brush, Ph.D., Port Deposit, Md. whe HUN SCHOOL OF PRINCETON Thorough and Successful College Preparation 103 Stockton Street, Princeton, New Jersey ST.LUKES SCHOOL FOR BOYS. Small classes: rapid progress. Athletics. Charles Henry Strout, M. A., Headmaster, Catalog of Box V, Wayne, Pa. (near Phila.) SOUTHERN—Boys The SWAVELY #7. One hour from Washington. An enthusiastic, working preparatory school which boys love and parents approve. Sound scholarship, character building. Strong on athletics. Splendid gymna- sium. Catalog. Address Box V, Manassas, Va. RIVERSIDE One of the nation’s distinguished military schools. Country location; mountains, lake; largest gym in South; golf. Cadets enter any time. Address Col. Sandy Beaver, Box V, Gainesville, Georgia. STUYVESANT *“ioys°* College Preparation. Small Classes Athletics. Fox Hunting. Week-end Camp Write for Illustrated Catalog Edwin B. King, Headmaster, Warrenton, Va. STAUNTO MILITARY ACADEMY One of the most distinguished schools in America preparing for Universities, Government Academies, Business. Superb disciplinary training $700. Box V, (Kable Station) Staunton, Va. WESTERN—Boys | ULVER MILITARY ACADEMY ee Lake eee | f liege. Smallclasses. Unsurpass Hien nonnng Catalog. The Inquiry Bureau, Culver, Ind, Academy for Non- College Preparatory [— mM Nine Chicago. All Athletics. Endowed. Cata- log: J. W. Richards, Box 150, Lake Forest, Ill. ORTHWESTERN yar ARkoem N NAVAL ACADEMY Chicago. An endowed College Preparae pidlay Fm Pre Junior College. Its distinctive ad- interest discriminating vantages and methods parents. Col. R. P. Davidson, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wis. HORPE for BOYS —6 to 16. “ACCREDITED ACADEMY.” “Character first.”” On Lake, near Chicago. Semi-military. Athletics. CATALOG of:— e Thorne Academy. Box V. Lake Forest. Til. CAMPS TEELA-WOOKET CAMPS For Girls Roxbury, Vermont i “The Horseback Camps’’ “The Camps without Extras’’ Tilustrated boo 1 klets Mr.andMrs.C.A. Roys, 10BewdoinSt.,Cambridge, Mass. ei THE UTORIN SCHOOL Direction of George Matthew, M.A. Columbia-Poitiers 38 East 58th Street, New York Through strictly tutorial methods maxi- mum efficiency secured. Experienced specialists in college preparatory work. Tel. Regent 4893 CHILDREN’S SCHOOLS THE CHILDREN’S HOUSE Country Boarding School For children 4-12. Large estate. Close supervision. Resident doctor, Highest references required. Moderate tuition. M. E. Orem, M.A. Nyack 1516 New York Nyack THE CHILDREN’S COUNTRY SCHOOL Nyack-on-Hudson, N. Y. A home environment for a selected group. Thorough instruction—kindergarten thru eighth grade. Special attention to health thru right living. Sports. Summer School. Address, The Secretary THE WASHINGTON SCHOOL of New York 17 East 60th Street A co-educational day school For information address The Secretary HAPPY HOURS Kindergarten and First Primary Children 3-7 Booklet on request. Mrs. M. C. Whyte 345 West 86th St., New York City Jefferson School 23 West 87 Street New York A Progressive Day School for Boys and Girls Sylvia J. Marks—Director Telephone: Schuyler 5060 GILFILLAN “ane for Little Folks Home school in the country. Individual care, Kindergarten, primary and elementary groups. Out- door sports; beautiful site. Pupils may be enrolled all year including summer camp. Booklet. Mrs. Mary E. Gilfillan Paoli, Pa. EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN Open all year. ————————————______i_______ AUUUNHLAMAAUAGUOCENUNAAUULAUGUuoN4veLOLUNOAOAUUEYONOMUSUOUNULAOANALRNOUEUNOOLAOUUAAULOAQUEHOOO4LL1I ULLLUALILLLLYOMEDteeeteMbe EAN LA? Esdon Hall Chestrut Hill, Philadelphia, Pa. A school on a beautiful country estate conducted by Miss Agnes H. Lawrence who has had unlimited experience with training the exceptional clitld. Summer residence in Maine The BANCROFT Schoo! FOR RETARDED CHILDREN Forty-second Year Winter School near Philadelphia, Summer Camp in Maine. 54 acres of ground, 20 buildings, 08 employees, including 12 teachers and 26 govern- esses. For School catalog or Camp booklet address Box 145, HADDONFIELD, N. 3. E. A. Farrington, M. D. Jenzia Coulson Cooley DEVEREUX SCH@LS for Children whose Progress hos been Retarded Three separate schools for Boys and Girls of all ages requiring Scientific Observation and Special Instruction. Male faculty for older boys. HELENA T. DEVEREUX, Dir. Box V, BERWYN, PA. The Woods’ School For Exceptional Children—Three Schools IR. BOYS LITTLE FOLKS Booklet Box 169 Langhorne, Pa. Mrs. Mollie Woods Hare, Principal THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING SCHOOL An ideal private home-school for nervous, back- ward and mental defectives. No age liinit. Phys- ical Culture. Manual training and all branches. Open year round. Terms $75 per month and up. MR. and MRS. AUGUST A. BOLD7T, Supt. New York, Binghamton, 114 Fairview Ave. Giek REER SAHOO for Girls of Retarded Developmer* Limited enrollment permits intimate care. 9 miles from Boston. Miss Cora E. Morse, Principal, 31! Park Cirele, Arlington Heights, Mass. PERKINS #iooe For children requiring special training and educa- tion. Unsurpassed equipment on 60-acre estate. Home life. Experienced Staff. Medical direction. Franklin H. Perkins, M.D., Box 54, Lancaster, Mass. STANDISH MANOR SCHOOL A special school for backward girls. Individual “in- struction. Experienced teachers. Happy home life. Healthful location. Out-door and water sports. 30 acre estate. Alice M. Myers, Principal, Hazel G. Cullingford, Ass’t Principal, HALIFAX, MASS.

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VOGUE

SCHOOLS ABROAD—Boys | STUDENT RESIDENCES—Girls | SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS

CHATEAU NEUVIC SCHOOL In France Thorough preparation for American colleges and schools under American masters. Feudal Chateau on large estate transformed to modern school. Canoe- ing, swimming, tennis, riding, etc. Historic cruises in 40 ft. cabin yacht. Limited enrolment. Summer camp during July and August Capt. P. H. Chadbourn, Director, Neuvie sur I’isle, Dordogne, France, or 17 Gramerey Park, Y ~ THE FRASCATI SCHOOL A School near Rome for American Boys Ideal Situation in the Alban Hills Highest college board standards. Interviews in New York or Philadelphia by appointment. Address: H. N. Bowman, 42 W. End Ave., N., Lancaster, Pa.

SCHOOLS ABROAD—Girls

Foreign Travel School for Girls February to June, 1926 Harmonizes travel and study, Rome, Florence, Paris, London. References required. Write for prospectus to MR. LEON ARNOLD, Secretary Suite 313 350-G Madison Avenue New York City “LE GUI” (the Mistletoe) A finishing school for girls from_16 to 19 years References are required. French, Art, Riding, etc. High- est educational and social references. Moderncomfort. Comtesse P. de Broin, Principal 38 rue de I’Yvette, Paris. 16@me ’ “s¢ ry Miies. Latapie’s School L ERMI 1 AGE for Ricks 7 bis rue de l’Ermitage, Versailles, S.et.0. Tweniy minutes from Paris. Offers all advantages of Paris with country life. French Studies—Music —Art—tTravel. Until Sept. 30th refer Mile, Latapie, Guaranty Trust Co., 524 Fifth Ave., New York City. (Near the Bois de Boulogne) LE LIE RR Eiiei-ciass finishing schoo! for girls. Complete course in French. Art, Sight- seeing. Large garden. Tennis Tak _—— heating. Madame BERNT L 39 ome du Chateau—-9 Av. Victor Huge 154—BOULOGNE s/Seine CANNES The Sasciaden School frances Study and travel. Cultural, Finishing and College Prep, courses. Snorts. Resident and Day Stu- dents. Director, Miss Marie Louise Fontaine, Care of Women’s City Club, 22 Park Ave., N. Y. City; or Villa Montmorency, Cannes, A. M., France. CHATEAU de BOULOGNE Formerly Maison Morel de FOS French finishing School for Girls

Park 22,000 meters. Tennis 14, rue de Sevres, BOULOGNE-sur-SEINE 15 min. from Centre of Paris

= STUDENT RESIDENCES—Girls

#liss Beilden’s Residence An ideal home for girls studying in ® New York. Large rooms, some with %, private bath. Chaperonage elective. . 321 West 80th Street at Riverside Drive 5 004: we! Susquehanna

4 9 . Miss Ferguson’s Residence A home of exclusive patronage for girl students at- tending school, college or special courses in New orK, 309-311 West 82nd ates Tel. Susquehanna 5343 ew York City Freneh Home Sehool Residence for girls pursuing special studies in New ork. Exceptional opportunities for French. MISS MACINTYRE or MLLE. TALGUEN 320 W. 107th St., Riverside Drive, New York City rs. Farmer's Chapero 202 Riverside Drivé.. New Yor! For young ladies. Delightful home atmos- phere. View overlooking Hudson. Rooms with bath adjoining. Chaperonage elective. Riverside 3187 Alice Stone Farmer PARK AVENUE RESIDENCE New York City For limited number of Girl Students taking spe- ciai courses. Chaperonage elective. Home care. Information given upon application to Miss Laura F. Sickels, 1!00 Park Ave., ‘New York City firs. Hneden’s Residence 6 West 87th Street (Central Park) A yp and charming home for girl students,

Airs. Boswell’s “A Home Away From Home”’ for girls studying in New York Tenth year. Elective chaperonage. Lan- guages. Catalogue. Telephone Susquehanna 7653 Address Mrs. Henry Harrison Boswell, 344-346 W. 84th St. next Riverside Drive

DANCING There ANY have dancing but do not know gift, properly developed,

TEASDALE RESIDENCE 326 West 80th St. At Riverside Drive Tel. Susquehanna 7858 For Girl Students and Young Women who come to New York to pursue courses of study and for a social season. French Chaperonage Booklet Gray, etc., etc. all of our courses. No obligation. BEGINNERS or Advanced Pupils.

Off the Stage Than On It! a natural gift for stage- is a priceless asset to YOU complete service for staging and not only if you want to go on the stage, but even if you merely want to appear to best advantage in local amateur entertainments! At the famous Ned Wayburn Studios EVERY type of dancing is taught by exactly the same method Mr. Wayburn used to help up the ladder of fame scores of the greatest dancing stars, such as Evelyn Law, Ann Pennington, Marilyn Miller, Write for illustrated booklet describing Classes or Private Instruction for Adults or Children— DANCING 1 [3-2-4 d= ddd, Is More Talent Amateur Productions Staged it. This Mr, Wayburn also maintains a completely equipping amateur or private entertainments. Write for complete details of this service. NED WAYBURN Studios of Stage Dancing Inc. 1841 Broadway, a Golumbunt Circle on 60th Street lew York Charnes Open SAM ve 10 PM. Deity (Closed Saturdays st 6P.M.) Phone i Basen Sumas

Gilda

STUDENT RESIDENCES—Boys TWO BOYS Opportunity for two boys, 12-15 years, to enjoy musical advantages of New York in East Seventieth Street home of educator and musician associated with exclusive boys’ school two doors away, which boys will attend. Educational and cultural values of music sanely built into lives of boys. Regular supervised out-door play. Week-end camping. Address until October First, Robert W. Claiborne, 7 East 87 Street, New York, N. Y. STUDENT RESIDENCES— Boys & Girls

Miss Hagedorn’s Kesidence A delightful home for children attending any school. Resident governess. Girls 5-14 years. Boys 5-9 years. Also summer camp at Bellport, Long Island. Telephone: Audubon 1600 604 Riverside Drive New York City

SPECIAL SCHOOLS

FINE ARTS

MIDYEAR VOCATIONAL ART CLASSES BEGIN JAN. 6th Reservations Now ) Academy of Fine Arts CARL N. WERNTZ, Director 81 East Madison St., Chicago, II. GRAND CENTRAL SCHOOL OF ART Season 1925-1926 Classes in Painting, Drawing, Sculpture, Illustration. Advertising Art, Costume Design. For catalog address SECRETARY Grand Central School of Art Grand Central Bidg., N. Y. C. scaremiaiiiilinasiaastaiinicaiinticiieiniiaal — METROPOLITAN ART SCHOOL MICHEL Jacoss, Director. 58 W. 57 St., N. Y. Authorof‘‘TheArt of Color’’&**The Study ofColor” LIFE—PORTRAIT—POSTER—COSTUME DESIGN—INTERIOR DECORATION Classes starting Monday, September 14 ST. LOUIS SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS Courses in Drawing, Painting, Modeling, Com- mercial Art, Interior Decoration, Crafts, etc. Address E. H. WUERPEL, Director, Room 12 WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY, St. Louis. H. 38 VESPER GEORGE SCHO FINE -_ APPLIED ARTS { Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Booklet.

Shoot of the Brie gaare OF FINE ARTS 50th yea Boston, Mass. a Philip L. wy F. A. Bosley, W. James, L. P. Thompson, K. Cross, Charles Grafty, F. W. Allen, ey a Clark, A. J. Morse, G. J. Hunt. Ill. booklet. NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED DART Felix Mahony, Pres. Interior Decoration, Costume, Commercial Poster & Textile Design. Illustration and Life, etc. Catalog. Connecticut Ave. and M St. Washington, D. C. Your letter of inquiry to the Condé Nast Educa- tional Bureau will receive the attention of a college- trained woman who is eager to help Vogue readers in the solution of their school problems. If you are ef York, do not hesitate to call at 19 West reet.

ASSISTED BY LENO 1905 MARIE LOUISE Ballroom Dancing, Charleston, Tango, Stage, Toe, Classic and Technique, strictly private. Formerly Dancing Master to Maud Adams and in ‘‘A Kiss For Cinderella’, Tango same as taught to Rudolph Valentino by Don Leno, also teacher to Mae Murray, Lillian Lorraine, Paula Edwards. Students prepared for Musical Comedy, Drama, Vaudeville. Positions secured for graduates. Booklets on re- quest—117 W. 48, N. Y. Bryant 1194 DENISHAWN THE RUTH ST. DENIS and TED SHAWN School of Dancing and Its Related Arts Beginning, Intermediate and Advanced Courses Short Evening Courses always open MABEL C, SHAWN, Manager, 327 W. 28th St.,N.Y. LOS ANGELES BRANCH Professional courses open October 5th MARJORIE LYON, Manager. 932 S. Grand Ave. CHALIF S25" su Louis H. pc Principal. “1 admire your energy and wo ANNA PAVLOVA. Fall and Winter Courses. Catalog on request. 163-165 WEST 57TH ST., NEW YORK CITY CARTER - WADDELL School of Dancing For the professional, the amateur and the teacher. 18 West 72nd St., New York Tel. Endicott 4188 MIKHAIL MORDKIN’S INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE DANCE Circle 8367 108 Central Park Scuth New York DON est }

DRAMATICS

Junior and Senior Courses in Acting PACKARD THEATRE INSTITUTE With professional en- gagements through the Packard Theatrical Exchange, the largest placement organization In the U. S., having placed Katharine Cornell, William Far- num, Jeanne Eagels and thousands more in the companies of David Belasco, Arthur Hop- kins, Charles Frohman and other leading managers.

Est. 1892 pay PACKARD, President NRY GAINES HAWN, Dean Pa Ruth Tomlinson, Director, Suite 401-E Earl Carroll Theatre Bidg., 755-7th Ave., New York Phone Circle 6840

Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very special service if a last-minute enrollment is desired, Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. Edith Coburn Noyes School

STAGE DANCING TAUGHT BY LTER WA Formerly Dancing Master Ziegfeld Follies, John Cort, Chas. Dillingham, Lee & J. J. Shubert, Geo. M. Cohan, others, Teacher of Marilynn Miller, Ray Dooley, Fairbanks Twins, Florence Walton and _ others, Booklet V free. 900 7th Ave., N. Y. Circle 8290 A)

ROSETTA O’NEILL DANCING Classic—National—Folk—Rhythmic—Ball Room “*To Miss O’Neill I owe my aygeete. rw C rs. Vernon tle 746 Madison Ave., N. Y. Phone Rhinelander Gre

MISS KNOWLES School of Dancing Classical, Re-llroom, Indi- vidual and Class Instruction New Address STEINWAY ITALL 113 W. 57th St., New York Telephone Circle 5403

AGNES BOONE School of the Dance Formerly Universities, Stanford and California Teacher, Denishawn School, New York Address The Secretary, Sitite 512-515 New Steinway Hall, 113 W. 57th St., New York. VESTOFF SEROVA SCHOOL TRallet, Classie—Interpretative Dancing. Baby Work. Text-books ‘‘Imperial Method’’ (Hlustrated) and ‘Training on Toes. Classes open Oct. 5th. Correspondence Course Oct. Ist. Write for Booklet V ‘7 West 72nd St., N.Y.C. Tel. Trafalgar 785

”

DRAMATICS OPERA DRAMA MUSIC COLLEGE of DANCE ARTS SINGING and PHOTO-PLAY For Acting, Teaching, Directing. Developing poise and person:lity es- sential for any calling in life. Alviene eatreand stock Co, (appear- ances while learning), Y. debuts and careers stressed. For Pros- —~ write study desired to_Secre- , 43 West 72nd St., N.Y., EXT. 22

American Academy of Dramatic Arts The leading institution for Dramatic and Expres- sional Training in America. New Fall class begins Oct. 26. Free catalog describes all courses. Write: SECRETARY, 251-J. Carnegie Hall, New York, N. Y. ie Mie le BAR NE T T Individual Training STAGE PLATFORM

Emphasis on Speaking voice and Diction Studio, 152 West 57 Street, New York Telephone Circle 1350 OF DRAMATIC ART Acting—Directing—Teaching—Public Speaking Thorough Training in Expression. Developing Per- sonality. Diction. French methods of Pantomime. 112-114 Carnegie Hall, New York. Circle 1766 The Schuster-Martin School of the Drama A ccredited) Summer Session. Dormito! Our own Theatre.

Oral English Drama Character Education Analysis and Interpretation of Literature. Voice. Diction. Fully Equipped Little Theatre. 18th Year. Edith Coburn Noyes, Principal Symphony Chambers, Boston ALBERTI SCHOOL OF EXPRESSION and DRAMATIC ART Regular courses October to June. Connected with Stuart Walker’s companies and Young People’s Theatre, Inc.

Helen Schuster- Maxtin, Director. The — bag Kemper Lane Cincinnati, Ohio.

MIssSTOWNSENDS STUDIO SPEAKING VOICE DICTION STAGE ma Pl tA ie’

1114 Carnegie Hall, New York

Vogue Vanity Fair 21 West 44th Street

past located; open all year. Registration now tor 1925-26, Ninth year. Booklet. Phone Schuyler 4032. O SCHOOL or camp is listed in these pages without an investigati Th N Condé Nast Educational Bureau. We refuse a place to a n b : of mo = aay sanre because to do otherwise would be a*breach of trust to our readers. The Condé Nast Educational Bureau

every year,

House & Garden New York City

Oct

reg ee The Sec. Gi Regula

* semble Mr 2827 E1 THE INST! OF M —_—

Individ {264 Le Butterf

No Br Comp! lucrat: pert < Phone

Page 59

2 tet Pm s Fee

miILe stle 3

17 85 October 15, 1925

SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS

MUSIC MINNA KAUFMANN Teacher of Singing The LILLI LEHMANN Method 601-602 Carnegie Hall New York City Tel. Circle 1350 Sec. J. C. Cartall Circular on request

reswoacseamanetnisene. 3 Ohe Cilebeland Tustitute of ()usic Regular courses include orchestral, choral and en- semble training. Mrs. Franklyn B. Sanders, Acting Director 2827 Euclid Avene Cieveland, Ohio THE CURTIS ewes by Mary Louise Curtis ads of Departments in- clude Marcella Sembrich, Voice;

TUTE Josef Hofmann, fzano; Carl INSTI aor re hg conoid Stokowski, chestra ata OF MUSIC 648 Rittenhouse Sa. Phila., Pa.

onserbvatory EST. 1867 OF MUSIC,INC. Noted Faculty in all branches. Dormitories. Bertha Baur, eax For catalogue address L. P. Howard, Registrar, Cincinnati, 0. Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very special service if a last-minute enrollment is desired. Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. incinnati

LANGUAGES SCHOOL OF LANGUAGES Cultured Native Teachers TRIAL LESSON Individual Instruction {264 Lexington Ave. Butterfield 6277 PHYSICAL EDUCATION

esson $2.00 Near East est: St., N. Established 16 years

of Physical The Sargent School “Ehuvition Founded fea by Dr. D. A. Sargent. Booklet on request. L.W. SARGENT: Director, Cambridge, Mass. GRACE G. GIRARD THE FINE ART OF JIU- bbe Scientific Self-Defense for Wo Studio 428 Lafayette Street, New ¥ York City

INTERIOR DECORATION

Che NEW YORK SCHGOL of INTERIOR DECORATION 441 age AVE:-NEW YORK SHERRILL WHITON, Director Practical Training Course FALL TERM STARTS OCT. 2nd. A four months course in_ period styles, color harmony, selection and use of furniture, fabrics, etc. Send for Catalogue 43 BOSTON SCHOOL OF INTERIOR DECORATION Correspondence Courses Course A—Professional Training Courses. Course B—Domestic Course—How to Plan Your Own House, Enrollment limited—Write for Prospectus Address P. 0. Box 143, Boston (Copley Station), Stee. INTERIOR DECORATION The New School of Design, Inc. 1680 BROADWAY 248 BOYLSTON ST. New York Boston eee ONLY SCHOOL OF KIND.

Address—Secretary, 2239 Broadway, N. Y. N. Y. SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. Register now All professional courses, ‘‘Dynamic Symmetry’’, Lectures, etc. Day, Saturday and Evening Courses.

COSTUME DESIGN DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- sale, retail or home use. Day and Evening Classes. Call or write for particulars. Established 1876. McDowell Dressmaking and Millinery School. No Branches. 58 West 40th St., New York

COSTUME DESIGN Costume and illinery Design Fall registration now going on Individual instruction under the direction of Emil Alvin Hartman Call or write for information all FASHION ACADEMY New York Paris , 4 East 53rd Street at Fifth Avenue New York City em de luxe ar.s—new york ook courses

costume desi dressmalc! most popular studio and browns designers 597-599 fifth, ave(nue, MISS BLANCHE REDDY) MAN. NATIONAL ACADEMY of COMMERCIAL ART Pelouze Bldg., 250 E. Ohio St. Chicago -- Is open to a Limited number of new oueeats- yearly.Special personal attention to in all branches of Illustration and esign. Consult our Director, Proctor M.Fiske, Without charge, regarding your studies --- for Fall Term starting Sept.29th-write for free catalog «—————__-+{g§9 SECRETARIAL ite F RSKINF_ scoot Advanced Study for Women who are not in College Residence Houses. For catalog r* Y EUPHEMIA E. McCLINTOCK, A. 129 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass. MIS. CONKLIN SECPETARIAL SCHOOL 195 West 40th St. New York BALLARD Register Now For SECRETARIAL COURSE SCHOOL _ Established 53 years 610 Lex. Ave. at 53rd St. Central Branch Y. W. C. A,

OLD COLONY SCHOOL Secretarial and Business Training For Young Women. Resident and Day Students. Florence B. LaMoreaux, A. B., Mrs. Margaret Fowler, Principals, 315-317 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass. [Gnited States Secretarial School 527 Fifth Avenue, New York City Secretarial & Business Training. Ask for Catalog V Irving Edgar Chase, Director, Vanderbilt 2471 KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL SECRETARIAL & EXECUTIVE sane for Educated Women New York Providence

PROFESSION AL Hotels Need Tiained Women

wide demand for traincd women; all departments, hotels, apartment houses; un- crowded field; fine living, quick advancement. ‘Our methods en- dorsed by leading hotels every- F where. Write for FREE BOOK. “‘yYour Big Opportunity, Lewis HOTEL TRAINING oes Room X -5613, Washington, D.C clubs,

SCHOOL OF MILLINERY Completion of course permits fulfilling responsible, lucrative positions. Day and Evening Classes. Ex- bert director. Diplomas. Booklet upon request. Adelaide Y. Miller, Principal Phone Bryant 5589 20West49thSt. New York City Traphagen School of Fashion All phases from elementary to full mastery of costume design and illustration are taught in shortest time compatible with thoroughness. Our sales department Sepocer< of s GEN work. ETHE APHA 200 West 57th St.

New York Tea Room Manaéers in Bid Demand Hundreds of new tea rooms, cafeterias, lunch rooms, motor inns, now opening every week are crying for Shortage acute. We receive daily calls for managers, assistant managers. hostesses, table directors, buyers,. etc.—men and women. EARN $5,000 THIS YEAR. You can qualify in a few short weeks with the Lewis System of Spare-Time Training—and we put you in touch with big opportunities. Write today for FREE BOO. ‘Pouring Tea for Profit” ne Ag TEA ROOM INSTITUTE trained managers.

Dent. x—5 Washington. D. C.

WONT YOU COME IN? That’s what this garden gate is saying, isn’t it? It’s what all the gates and doors in House & Garden’s Second Book of Houses say. For the genius of this book is that it reveals the secret of the ways by which a house—almost any house—can be made into a home, and a temple of fair, fine, living. Here are sixty pages of the Four Ideal Smaller Homes, that have made such an exciting début this year. Four houses quite differ- ent in type,—Georgian, Tudor, Spanish, and French—all finished and furnished down to the last lovely detail of har- mony in the chintzes, and grace in the candlesticks. And then, forty-eight pages on building. Nothing left out, from how to make sure that you carve out what you want from your ideas, to the texture of the walls, the design of the mouldings. Photographs of lovely houses—600 illustrations in all, in the 192 pages—lists of architects . . . of building materials. A wealth of practical material that makes one long to be at the business of building the little house that says “Come in!” A book so helpful to own, such fun to plan with, so easy to get. Just ask at your favourite book store, or fill in and mail the coupon below. $4 net HOUSE & GARDEN’S Second Book of Houses House & GarpEN, Greenwich, Conn. [_] You’re right about that Book of Houses. here’s $4.20 for the book and postage. Street City I do need it. And—

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54 , ~ A ww Vv Vv ee = gs . = i a3 t x = 2 Py MA * s et e r Brat : é as H + Ss F ~—_ : t. e x r . 4 att + = $ 4 “ ag A FO 2i\" SI $ Be inp D ° 2° oe as 4 ; ¥ rs) : A 4." t ) ZR - ° on + ke OVER GUIDE] | roe 4 “a tip = Veg o e = = ¥, Antiques A reference directory of uniform advertisements Books—Cont. A. WERTHEIM—NEW YORK—ROME—BERLIN 534 Madison Ave., N. Y. Tel. Plaza 0246, with its pewter, tapestries, brocades, antiques and reproduc- tions is a branch of the European concern A. Wertheim. classified Jor the convenience of the reader Advertising rates given upon request. Guide of Vogue, 19 West Forty-Fourth Street, New Shoppers’ & Buyers’ ork BEAUTIFUL RED BOXES filled with Books and gifts for Bon Voyage or Birthday for Men, ‘Women or Children. $5—$7—-$10. Prompt Mail Order Service. Liveright Bookshop, 4 West 49th St., New York Arts and Crafts SEND TODAY for descriptive folder showing actual samples of the new and beautiful Alice Gray Luncheon Sets Alice Gray West Cheste>, Penna. IMPORTED OLD FRENCH Coloured PRINTS of the 18th Century. Adapted for framing—lamp shades, screens etc, Write for illus. pamphlet we a offerings. Maison Chagnon, 804—6th Ave., N. PAINTINGS CLEANED-RESTORED, by at References from Museums, Dealers, Collectors. Prices moderate. Odger Roust, 182 Madison Ave., N. Y. Ashland 6749 Art-Needlework EXCLUSIVE ITALIAN LINENS. Reticello Cut- work in antique designs, adapted to modern uses. Dinner, Lunch, Tea, Bridge Tray Sets. All’Arte del Lino. 177 MacDougal St. near Washn. Sa., N.Y.C. NOBILITY ART EMBROIDERY by the Russian Refugee Work Shop. New models in ladies’ and giris’ embroidered dresses. 104 West 57th St., N. Y. C. Tel. Circle 10163 Auction Bridge Lillian Sherman Rice, 231 W. 96th St., N. Y. Author “‘Bridge in a nutshell’’. Private & Classes. Course in 6 lessons. Also by mail. Inferences. Con- centration a specialty. Tel. River 2433 or 1464 SHEPARD’S STUDIO, INC., 20 W. 54th St., N. Y. College of Auction Bridge. Expert personal instrue- tion, individuals or classes, beginners or advanced players. Special course by mail. Tel. Circle 10041 Your Uwn Name On Bridge Scores. 250 officially ruled sheets, 6 x 9 in. Your name on each sheet. Ppd. anywhere, $2.00. Send for illustrations of other novel gifts. Beach Co., 904 Sycamore, Cincinnati, O. LIDA GILDER—140 WEST 57th ST.—N. Y. Auction Bridge (Whitehead System). Private and class lessons for advanced students. Beginners tutored. Telephone Circle 3053. Babies’ Things VIRGINIA’S AIR OF REFINEMENT reflected in handmade children’s wear to 3 years. Layettes and French Bonnets a specialty. No catalog. On approval. Ideal Baby & Gift Shop, Roanoke, Va. Beads and Beaded Bags BEADS ALL KINDS, Instruction Books on Bead Work, Looms, Pearls, Write for the Blue Book of Beads. Bead Bags Repaired. doe Michel 37 West 39th Street, N. Y. REPAIRING OF SILK AND BEADED BAGS. Frames for Beaded re Silk bags to order. Tapestry Bags. Catalogue upon request. A. L. Workman, 1 West 34th Street, N. Y. C IRENE PENN BAG IMPORTER Latest creations direct from Paris. Your worn bags, repaired by us, look like new. 562 Madison Ave., Y. C. Tel. Plaza 4987 Beauty Culture ik Speer tiles that say “Persia” c “Ireland” .... bargain-wise European. ped—in a bazaar in Algiers.” of Vogue. 19 West 44th Street Things People Buy Abroad ; the hand-painted handkerchiefs ’; the linen that says “Italy” or beaded bags that say “Paris’ Often, by a wise use of the Shoppers’ and Buyers’ Guide, you can find, some three thousand miles and dollars nearer home, the selfsame thing that your friends extract—at a price—from a It’s fun, of course, to say “And here we have a trifle of lawn and lace I picked up in the tiniest, dirtiest shop imaginable, on the Ponte Vecchio.” Or, “I found this tile—just slightly chip- But, on the other hand, it’s quite as nice to admire the tile, or the trifle of lace, and be warmly, snugly—even smugly—con- scious that you have a whole set of very similar, suspiciously similar, tiles; and a luncheon set of the lawn-and-lace that you purchased in a quite spotless shop you read about in Vogue. No duty to pay ... no desperate smuggling amongst the baby’s shoes! Yes, it’s quite worth while to look for suggestions in every issue THE SHOPPERS’ & BUYERS’ GUIDE New York City Beauty Culture—Cont. MME. MAYS treatments for satisfactorily restoring contour, removing wrinkles, scars, freckles, tighten- ing muscles, given only at my one address, 50 West 49th St., N. Y. Bryant 9426. Booklet. MARINELLO BEAUTY CENTER Whether it is a shampoo, marcel, facial massage or any other beauty aid, you will get the utmost in scientific treatment at MARINELLO “The Greatest Beauty Institute in the World’’ Western Expert Dept. Eastern Expert Dept. 804 Tower Ct. Bldg., Chicago, Ill. 72-5th Ave, N.Y EYEBROWS & LASHES permanently attractive. Darken with Coloura! Adds winsome expression. Will not wash off. $1.10 ppd. Treatment 50c. at Spiro’s 26 West 38th St., & 34 W. 46th St., N. Y. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR removed by the painless method originated by Dr. Roebling Geyser, a li- censed physician. This is the 14th year of its successful use. No electric needle or chemical used. Satisfaction guaranteed. Booklet sent in plain sealed envelope upon request. Dr. Roebling Geyser. 107 East 35th St., New York City 2001 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. VIROZOL the genuine SWEDISH FACE BATH Refreshing, Refines the texture, pores & features. Bleaches. Rebuilds tissues $2 bottle. Send for lit- erature. Virozol Co., 248 E. 34th St., Dept. 5, N.Y. REMOVAL of Superfiuous Hair is now accomplished for sure through the Tricho System created after 25 years painstaking research by a former professor and lecturer at Fordham, Polyclinic and Cornell. Lifelong, Money-back guarantee, Free consultation. Interesting treatise No. 7 sent free in plain sealed envelope TRICHO New York, N. Y. 270 Madison Ave., at 39th Street Boston, Mass. 100 Boylston Street Newark, N. J. 40 Park Place Baltimore, Md. 100 W. Lexington St. Chicago, Ill. 190 No. State Street Springfield, Mass. 377 Main Street Tricho ORRA PRODUCTS—Orra Cleansing Milk—grease- less—stimulates and nourishes the tissues $1.10 pp. A greaseless fluffy Cream removes all wrinkles. Orra Eathorne, Suite 512, 665—5th Ave., N. Y. LUCILLE SAVOY TOILETRIES OF QUALITY Blended Shades of Exquisite Poudre beautifying complexions. $1.50 box postpaid. Astor Theatre idg. (Times Sq.), N. Y. Chickering 6130. STOP YOUR SKIN TROUBLES Make your skin clear; Banish any blemishes— Alboderm—will do it quickly, safely, surely. $1.50 & $2.50 ppd. B. F. McCabe, Ph, G, 69 E. 87th St., N.Y. ACTRESS INVENTION will restore your face in youthful contour. A sure, safe secret; no stretching of skin, wire or spring. Harmless. Sadie MacDonald, 1482 Broadway, Room 609, N. MME. JULIAN’S HAIR DESTROYER sesiestes all superfluous hair (with roots). Wo electricity or poison. Stood test 50 years. ELECTROLYSIS by up-to-date method. Graduate in charge. Private room, separate entrance. Louise Berthelon. 48 East 49th Street, N. Y. Murray Hill 2768 Beauty Culture—Cont. MOLES, Warts, Birthmarks removed without using knife or drugs. Leaves no scar. Practically painless. Tel. Circle 1144 Dr. Achorn, 6 West 5lst St., N. Y. FLESH REDUCING CREAM. Will reduce from 3 to 5 Ibs. a week. Patients taken for treatment. Sample jar with instructions $3.50. Harmless. L. A. Goodell, 268 Brookline Ave., Boston, Mass. CRYSTAL-LEE smoothes away weary lines. Booklet ‘‘Beauty, Its Attainment and Protection’’ on request. Crystal-Lee, 40 West 57th St., N. Y. Circle 4600 HOUSE & GARDEN’S Second Book of Houses. 600 illustrations of homes you will find he.pful in plan- ning your own. 192 pages, beautifully printed, bound in cloth, $4.00. Greenwich, Conn. VOGUE FASHION BI-MONTHLY contains features that formerly appeared in Vogue Pattern Book & Children’s Vogue, including all Vogue patterns. $2yr., $3 for 2 yrs. Condé Nast Pub. Inc., Greenwich, Ct. Boudoir Accessories VERA SANVILLE INC., 9 E. 46th ST., N. Y. Lingerie, Negligees, Trousseau —Lamps, Cushions, ete. including all the dainty accessories that con- tribute to feminine charm. Mur. Hill 2143 Candies COLE’S FAMOUS DOLLYPOPS for Hallowe’en gifts and parties cleverly dressed as_ goblins, witches, etc. Individually Boxed 50c each by Parce} Post. Cole’s, 210 N. Fourth, Richmond, Va. Children’s Things THE CHILDREN’S SHOP, 20 East 46th Street, New York. Tel. Murray Hill 0779. Boys’ suits to 4 years. Girls’ frocks to 14 years—From original sketches. NANA, LTD. 24 East 66th Street, New York Infants’ and Children’s Dresses made to individual order. MISS L. BROGAN, 27 East 54th St., New York Tel. Plaza 7280. Exceptionally attractive infants’ & children’s clothes, negligees & boudoir accessories, Palm Beach New Orleans, FAIRYLAND 10 West 50th Street, N. Y. Coats and dresses to order from Imported Models Chintzes The Chintz Shop, 431 Madison Ave., N.Y.C. Every- thing in Chintz, Linen, Cretonne. 4914 Maryl'd Ave., St. Louis, Mo. ; 3805 B’way, Kansas City, Mo.; 2521 Salem Ave., Cincin.. O.; 114 So. 20th St., Phila. Christmas Cards PERSONAL ENGRAVED CHRISTMAS CARDS exclusive designs, magnificent assortment, delivered anywhere. Send for samples at once. Iverett Waddey Co., 5 So. 11th St., Richmond, Va. Christmas Cards—HANDPAINTED ENGRAVED. Send $1.00 for = assortment of 15 cards. Other samples on approva Lydia M. Reeder, 412 W. Ninth Ave., Columbus, 0. CHRISTMAS CARDS From Your Own Pictures or negatives (any size). Rich reproductions on highest grade vellum with texts in handmade letters or in facsimile. Remember your friends at Christmas time with a picture of your home, yourself or little ones with appropriate verse and facsimile signature. Write today for samples and simple directions for ordering. 25 cards $5.00; 50, $8.50; 100, $16.00. Envelopes included. Artcraft Co., 228 West Fifth St. , Saint Paul, Minn. CHRISTMAS CARDS OF INDIVIDUALITY Original designs—Hand Engraved Samples ready. Orders should be placed now. Dreka Company, 1121 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. Cleaning & Dyeing KNICKERBOCKER Cleaning & Dyeing Co. High class cleaners and dyers. Main Office, 402 E. 31st St., N. C. Branch offices in N. Y. City, also White Plains and New Rochelle, New York. Bed Quilts WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS made of fine satins, silks and sateens, filled with selected lamb’s wool. Illustrated Booklet V on request. Wilkinson Sisters, Ligonier, Indiana. BARRETT, NEPHEWS & COMPANY Old Staten Island Dyeing Establishment, Inc. Established 1819 Premier Cleaners & Dyers of America Everything for the wardrobe and home cleaned and dyed. 33 Stores; see telephone book New York Brooklyn Philadelphia Newack Elizabeth Boston oe a PATCHWORK QUILTS $12.25. kind our great grandmothers made & prized. oa” patterns faithfully reproduced in finest materials & fast colors. Exquisite machine stitch- ing makes price possible. CANDLEWICK SPREADS $5.75 genuine hand-made. Write for illustrated booklet showing Quilts and Spreads. Elizabeth Finlay, P. O. Box 3, South Station, Evanston, Ill. Books Corsets and Brassiéres MME. S. SCHWARTZ—Now 36 West 57th St., N. Y., formerly 11 East 47th Street. Custom made and all novelties in Corsets for the Woman of Fashion. GOSSARD CORSET SHOP—179 Madison Ave., at 34th St., N. Y. C. Retail headquarters for Gossard Corsets. 50 different models for all figures. Remarkable values $3.50 up. Fittings by experienced corsetieres. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR? ON FACE-ARMS-LEGS? Maccabee Bleach renders hair practically invisible quickly—safely—$1.50 postp: Mmc. Julian 34 West 5ist Street, N. Y. paid. B. F. McCabe, Ph.G. 69 East 87th Street. N.Y.C. VOGUE’S BOOK OF ETIQUETTE represents the letter and spirit of good manners as approved by people of breeding and tradition. Postpaid $4.00 GOSSARD CORSET LA ig PARLOR—Retail 601 Mad. Ave., at 57th S' Y. Fitted by Gossard Corsetiere at ‘shop or "eg Corsets to order. Vogue, 19 West 44th Street, N. Y. Mail orders by measurement solicited. Regent 4848 Octo ——— {ll Cor ee LouIs Every de: Made to Ww at once re Impo! 171 SPECIAL EMMA E type corse address 13 selling M) Damag —— = MOTH-HC¢ invisible b nently ren 146-Fifth 9 E, 59th Expert in lead; ladie Normal Co q Trafalgar ! FOKINE, taught D Dance. C Alviene Un M Priv 267 Madis ENTI Magic, tra Bend for c The F. D. sw Punch 108 East 5' Fan “Pp For Rent o: Schumacher 813—4l1st § WONDERF beauty, you irrigation. Studio, 17 | REDUCTIC harmless, et eertified ch velope._La! REDUCE— reduce fat. pressing bu Dr. Robins MASSEUSI Surgical ca office or res Elida Johan BATTLI Ring Roller Re 800 Madiso Fu RARE AN unusual M. J. Parr EXPERT F Latest style moderate. | Hirshfeld Ft Gowns THE Miss and evening and also « 134 Lexingt MME. TAF to suit you 129 East 60 6 Coats & Hai La

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1ions, con- 2143

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October 15, 1925 wn uw

Corsets & Brassiéres—Cont. Gowns Bought Linens & Handkerchiefs Shopping Commissions—Cont.

LOUISE GREENWOOD—CORSET EXPERT Every description of Corset or Brassiere copied; Made to order. ied. Mail corset for estimate. 500-5th Ave., N. Y. Longacre 8173 WEAR WEBBER’S TUME BELT at once reduces stomach 3 to 7 inches. Price $3.50 Imported material comfort Brassiere $5.00 1719 Pacific Ave., Atlantic City, N. J FRANCES HUNT, INC. 9 East 48th Street 7 = — rseti SPECIALISTS yo NORMAL & STOUT FIGURES Negligees, Lingerie Corselettes, Brassieres Telephone Murray Hill 4913 EMMA E. GOODWIN, INC. Specialists in_all type corsets, brassieres, supporting garments. New address 13 East 37th Street, only shop in New York selling Mrs. Goodwin’s models,

HIGHEST CASH VALUE PAID for your slightly used or misfit Gowns, Suits, Street & Evening Dresses. Also Furs, Diamonds, Jewelry, Silverware, Furniture, Rugs, Draperies, ete. Phone, Bryant 0670—for an appointment. Special attention given to out-of-town patrons, Mme. Naftal, 69 West 45th Street, N. Y. City UNUSUAL LINENSat prices unusual. Antique filet runners $2.95. Elaborate Madeira baby dresses $1.69. Real Mosaic kerchiefs 10 for $1.00. Free literature, Madeira Linen Shop, 77 West 38th Street, N. Y. GEORGETTE DUNBAR EVANS will keep you in touch with N, Y.’s modes; will shop for or with you~ gratis. Interior decorating. Fashion magazine. Hotel San Remo, Central Park West. Endicott 6700

G. & V. PILLORI, 544 Madison Ave., N. Y. C. Italian linens, Tooled leather novelties, Magolica ware. Florentine Christmas cards and silver-filigree jewelry.

WE PAY CASH For Wearing Apparel and Jewelry Highest Prices, Full Value Guaranteed Mme. Furman, 103 West 47th St., N. Y. Bryant 1376 HIGHEST PRICES gg A for your Gowns, Wraps, Miss Duff, 151 West 46th St. - 'S. ¥. Bryant 8247

IMPORTED LINEN HANDKERCHIEFS. Write for this new choice assortment. Ladies beautiful handkerchiefs. Fine colored linen from Ireland; exquisite hand-embroidered corners in harmonizing colors done in Porto Rico. Ask ‘‘The Handkerchief Man’”’ for No. 2/PR 6 for $1.40. Send no money. Postage Paid On Approval Frank M. Jacobs, Grand Rapids, Mich.

MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 0670, pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used evening & street frocks, furs, diamonds, jewelry, silverware. Established over 30 years. 69 West 45th Street, N. Y.

Maternity Apparel “BEAUTIFUL THINGS ! SEE”’—Write for Free Pamphlet with list of bargains. Shops free for or with you saving time and money. Aelen V. Richards, 452—5th Ave.. New York, RUTH CONNE’—A FRIEND IN NEW YORK shops for you & your home gratis. Chaperoning—Information, Personal Service perfected. Send for leaflet. Studio Home, 17 HK. 59th St., N. Y. Regent 7194 BLANCHE ADLER, Formerly of the South will shop for or with you while in the city. Services gratis. References required. 10 East 43rd Street, N. Y. Tel. Vanderbilt 2360 MRS. RAE MARTIN. I help you furnish your House or Apartment. Shop in all the best places, for or with you “—. Offer my suggestions. 40 West 52nd St., N. ¥ Circle 4421.

Damages onClothing Made Invisible

MOTH-HOLES, ‘Tears, Burns on garments made invisible by re- -weaving. Shine on clothing perma- nently removed. Guarantee Damage Weaving Co., 146-Fifth Ave., bet. 19th & 20th Sts., N. Y. C. Gowns, Frocks and Blouses BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSETS, Belts and Brassiéres. Exclusive and invisible en- largement feature. Dress as usual. Write for booklet No. 14, Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York MISS C. R. FuLLee “affiliated with Associated Retail Credit Men shops with or for you. Use her charge accounts at leading Avenue Shops. No extra expense to you. 2914 Broadway, N. Y. Cathedral 7619

Gowns Remodeled, Made to Order, reasonably priced. Exclusive a or designed, fine workmanship. fail orders a specialty Mme. Nobele, is West 49th St., N. Y. Bryant 1567 Berthe May’s Maternity Dresses, Layettes Exclusive models at reasonable prices. Write for Season’s portfolio No. 14 Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York A SHOPPER OF EXPERIENCE personally shops for or with you at leading N. Y. shops gratis. Chap- eroning. Magazine sent free. Tel. Kingsbridge 1137. Katharine W. Sergison, 3819 Orloff Ave., New York

Dancing HELENE L. SWENEY,

9 E, 59th St., Y. City Expert in Modern Dances, teaching RE. to Gowns Remodeled Monograms and Woven Names Social Etiquette

“THE MENDING SHOP” Gowns Tailored, Suits Remodeled up-to-date. Shop Blouses and Gowns CASH’S WOVEN NAMES for marking clothing, household & hotel linens, etc. Write for styles and 5th St., So. Norwalk, Charm, Poise & Personality—Overcome self-con- sciousness—Personality analyzed, correct social pro- cedure authoritatively taught personally & by mail.

dies. to follow; correcting all faults. Special Refitted. Miss H. Redding Coughlin, 17 E. 48th | prices. J. & J. Cash, Inc., pone By And "Biedeomea. Regent 8193. N. Y. No Branches. Vhone 5062 Mur. Hill | Conn., Belleville, Ont., Los Angeles, Cal. Mlle. Louise, Shelton Hotel, 48th St. & Lex. Ave., N LS ETUDE ae 6 me RE-BUILDING gt agin A is bbe TALK enemas Tango—modern—ballroom dances of New York, because I make creations out of gowns . Private or class lessons, that seem hopeless. Mail orders. Atalanta Homer, Mourning Apparel Stationery & & ageing Trafalgar 1256 334 West 72nd Street N. Y. C. | Ltd., 134 East 55th St., N. Y. Plaza 3199.

FOKINE, SR. Famous Russian Dancing Master, taught Diaghileff Ballets and Pavlowa’s Swan Dance. Class and private tutelage. Vitale Fokine, Alviene University, 43 W. 72nd St., Dept. 22, N. Y.

Hair Coloring ARTHUR MULLEN—!9 E. 49th St., N. Y. Mourning and Stunning Biack Hats, Veils, Gowns, Blouses and Bags. Catalog sent on request. STATIONERY New Process Engraving Name Ad- dress 100 sheets, 100 envelopes, Supertine Ripple hand deckle 64%x8%% folded or 10%x7% single. A choice gift $4.00. J. P. Neff & Co., 276 W. 43rd St., N.Y.

SHELTON DEWEY Modern dance expert and authority Private or class lessons. By appointment. 267 Madison Ave., N. Y., Tel. Caledonia 6962 Vor PREMATURELY GREY HAIR use Oriental Ilenna Vaste. Shades from light Brown to Black. Price $3.00. Sample postpaid $1.00. — on request. Andre. 16 East 37th St., N. Y. C.

Patterns WHEN YOU THINK OF WRITING think of Whiting Whiting Paper Company New York Chicago Phila. Boston Holyoke

Draperies LAURA WAND—CONSULTING DECORATOR specializes in draperies and — Write for sketches and estimat 49 W. 44th Street, N. Y. Vanderbilt 0616

Entertainment ENTERTAINMENTS FOR CHILDREN Magic, trained animals, punch, juggling, stories. Bend for complete list or phone Penn. 8239 e F. D. Walker Bureau, 25 West 42nd St., N. Y. MAGICIANS—TRAINED ANIMALS—GAMES Punch & Judy—Everything for Children’s parties Children’s Entertainment Bureau 108 East 57th Street, N. Y. Plaza 4535

WHY HAVE GREY OR FADED HAIR? B. Paul’s Henna. Composed pulverized Henna; Herbs, Will not rub off. 14 shades. Harmless-Shop applications. Postpaid $1.60. B. Paul, 21 West 39th St., N. Y MEASURE from illustra- Fit guaranteed. Special W. S. Weisz, New York. PATTERNS CUT TO tions, description of model. attention to mail orders. Mrs. 111 Lexington Avenue, at 28th Street,

Hair Goods

Permanent Hair Wave

MANUEL, originator of Modern Transformation and the sight proof parting. Wigs, side pieces and toupes. Specialist in hair goods exclusively. Booklet. 29 East 48th St., N. Y. Mur. Hill 5737 ROBERT—Permanent Hair Waving like a Marcel. Jeune Garcon Hair Cut, Hair Tinting, Hair Goods, Manicuring, ete., 675 Fifth Avenue, at 53rd Street, Plaza 1533-0684.

LOUIS PARME Master of the art of making a and exclusive hair goods. 18 West 57th St., Phone Circle 4956 J. SCHAEFFER, INC. famous for a graceful Per- manent Wave, without Kink or Friz; guarantees no discoloration to white or grey hair. 590 Fifth Ave. at 48th St., N. Y. Bryant 7615

Hats NESTLE’S Originators of Lanoil Waving. World-Famous Experts. 12 and 14 East 49th St., New Yor! Phone Vanderbilt 7660-7661. YOUR PERSONAL STATIONERY Neatly printed stationery with that crisp banknote feel that means quality. Sheets, 6x7 inches printed in dark blue ink in the top center, with your name and address or any form you wish up to 4 lines. Envelope flaps printed in same way. Your stationery will be sent postpaid, same week the order is received. Thousands of satisfied customers. 200 sheets and 100 envelopes for $1.00. Please send cash with order. Lettercraft, Carmi, Illinois WOMEN, G!RLS, make Christmas money now selling Distinctive Personal Stationery to your friends. Write for details today. De Luxe Station- ery Co., Dept. 1A, 344 W. 52nd St., N. Y. THE PARISIAN VOGUE IN PERSONAL Stationery is ‘‘Cut-Out’’. Quire Box of same any Initial in Color with Gold Edge, $1.50. Sample free. L. Isern, Stationery Engraver, 153 E. 38th St., N. Y.

Fancy Dress and Costumes “PRIZE WINNING COSTUMES” Modern—Fantastic—Period For Rent or Sale—To Order or From Stock. Bayer- Schumacher, 67-69 W. 46th St., N. Y., Bryant 1834

REMODELER OF HATS “A Hat of Yesterday’’ —redesigned into a ‘‘last word’’ creation. Smart new Hats to order. Mail Orders a specialty. Prices reasonable. Irene Franks, 18 W. 49th St., N. Y. MY SPECIALTY—FRENCH BOY-CUT Your features studied correctly Permanent Wave. Best results guaranteed. John Halloh, 36 East 48th Street, N. Y. Van. 5241

REBUILDER OF HATS A DISCARDED HAT successfully transformed into a smart new model by New York’s original Hat Remodeler. New hats to order. Mailorders. ‘‘Louise’’, 134 East 55th St., N. Y. MARIO & FREDERICK, INC. Permanent Wave Specialists. Personal attention. The result being the duplicate of a large natural wave. 17 East 48th St., N. Y. Vanderbilt 6897. Swimming Schools

SWIM FOR HEALTH, GRACE, effective reducing methods, Exclusive pool expert instruction. Send for Booklet C. Mary Beaton School of Swimming, 1 W. 67th St., N. Y. Trafalgar 3162. Endicott 8440

Flesh Reduction A BOOKLET BY DR. DENSMORE on treatment for reduction of Corpulency will be mailed without charge_upon request to Dept. ‘‘H” ep Garfield Tea Co. 813—4l1st Street WONDERFUL NEW beauty, youthful figure, vigor and health. Colon irrigation. Results guaranteed. Finlandia Health Studio, 17 East 45th St., N. Y. Tel. Mur. Hil! 3068. REDUCTION BATHS. $5.00 buys the formula, harmless, effective, easy to prepare. Money order or eertified checks only. Self addressed stamped en- velope. Larimer James, 137 East 19th St., N. Y. REDUCE—EAT WHAT YOU LIKE. New way to reduce fat, No dieting or exercising. Not de- pressing but invigorating. Hours 11 to 4. Dr. Robinson, 1440 Broadway, N. Y. By appointment. MASSEUSE Bona fide Swedish Graduate. Reducing. Surgical cases. Rheumatic neuritis. Irrigation at office or residence, day or night service Elida Johansson, 51 W. 84th St. or 50 B’ way, N. ¥.c. BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM METHOD Ring Roller—Bergonie Chair—Electric Light Baths. Ross Institute of Physio-Therapy 800 Madison Ave., cor. 41st St., N. Y. Van. 6290

Brooklyn, N. Y. TREATMENT

restores

Sold in the Best Shops only. MARGE-MARYE Reg. Durable, Col!<psible, hand-made felt hats, any color and shape. Write us if your dealer cannot supply you. 17 West 42nd Street, N. Y. C. PAUL — Permanent Marcel. — Service. Boyish Bob to Your Ty air Tinting ‘Frntstermations 586 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Phone Bryant 9964

Hemstitching, Plaiting, Buttons LOUISE BERTHELON—7 years with Nestle’s. large wave for coarse hair, tighter curl for thin locks. Moderate a 48 East 49th Street, near Park Avenue, es Murray Hill 2768 Table Delicacies REAL CHINA TEA with a flavor that will please tea lovers. Serve tea that is different. Attractive tea-table size caddy $1. Mark T. Wendell, Imp. Dept. 1. 156 State Street, Boston, Mass.

Buttons Covered, Hemstitching, Plaiting. Hem- stitching: plain, ‘picot edge, zigzag, curves. Buttons, customer’s own material. Plaiting all styles. Mail order catalog. Sadleir, 17 W. 34th St., N. Y.

Hosiery Repaired JOHN BROTHERS (formerly with Waldorf-Astoria) announce the opening of their beauty parlor at 42 West 34th Street. Specialists in permanent hair waving and hair dyeing Where the Fashionable Woman Preserves her beauty. Two doors from the Hotel McAlpin. One flight up. Phone Pennsylvania 7787 for an appointment.

Specialists in REPAIRING French Sheer Hose. Runs and Pull Threads repaired invisibly by the ‘‘Blakeman Process’. Charges 50c to $1.50. Lenox Hosiery Repair Service, 2 West 47th St., N. Y. LAMBERTI—Commended by Beauty Editors and Fashionable Women for Creating Modish Hair Bobs, Artistic Permanent Waves, Natural Hair Tints. 3334 B’way at 165th St., (5th Ave. Bus) Billings 1704

Jewelry & Precious Stones Shoes and Custom Shoes

FRANK C. HUTCHINSON BUYS DIAMONDS, precious stones and individual pieces of jewelry or jewelry estates to be settled. Expert appraising. 344 Madison Ave., N C., opp. Hotel Biltmore. SHOECRAFT SHOP ‘‘fits the narrow heel’’ in sizes 1-10 AAA to E. French and English models in street and evening footwear. Send for Catalog VS. Fit Guaranteed. 714-5th Ave., New York. Unusual Gifts OLD WORLD CREATIONS of quaint charm and delightful mee decorated at my own studio. talogue for trade only. ee ee. 520 Madison Ave, (nr. 53rd) ,.NewYork OUR SHIP CAME IN Loaded with rare furniture and unusual gifts from France—Italy and England Alice H. Marks, 4 W. 50th St., N. Y. Circle 3481 0. CHARLES MEYER & CO., 37 W. Sth St., N.Y. offers specialities in lamps and shades, andirons and fire tools, candlesticks etc. at lowest prices. For those in search of quality, ORIENTAL GIFTS—Artistic and unusual. Exclusive selection, Appropriate for all gift times. Cream white Fuji Silks. Send 2c for Xmas Folder. Far East Imp. Co. 1511 C-9th Avenue, West, Seattle, Washington.

RANDOLPH J. TRABERT CO., Formerly witn Black, Starr & Frost, Jewel Brokers & Authorized Appraisers. Jewels purchased from estates & private parties. Guaranty Trust Bldg., Rm. 506, 522-5th Av.

Furniture & Furnishings RARE ANTIQUE MAHAL. unusual beauty, Size 11x14. Will sacrifice for $600. M. J. Parrot, 117 West 13th Street,

A Persian rug of Cost $1500. N. Y. City

HAROLD J. HENRY and ASSOCIATES offer a three-fold service to executors, trustees and individuals:— Purchase, appraisal or sale of Diamonds, Precious Stones & Jewelry Estates H.J.Henry D.P. Brokaw H.A.Friese H. A. Meyers 15 Muiden Lane, New York City Forty Years of Jewelry Experience

Furs EXPERT FUR REMODELING AND REPAIRING Latest style according to the vogue. Prices very moderate. Satisfaction guaranteed. Est. 1886. Hirshfeld Fur Co., Inc., 71 W. 46th St., N. Y. Bry. 7265

BENNETT BROS. buy and sell Diamonds, Semi- precious —- Pearls, Old Fashioned Jewelry. Estates appraised and _ settled. 175 Broadway (2nd floor), 429 Fifth Ave., N. Y.

Jewelry and Silverware Bought

Gowns & Blouses Made to Order THE MISSES CURRAN will make you street and evening gowns and blouses for all occasions snd _also do remodeling at reasonable prices. 134 Lexington Ave. (29th St.), N. Y. Mad. Sq. 8188 MME TARMA makes dresses of unusual charm to suit your individual taste. at moderate prices. — remodeling 129 East 60th St., N. Y. Tel. Regent 2895

FELICITE 691 Madison Avenue, New York Coats & Hats—Wardrobes to order or ready to wear. CASH FOR JEWELRY, Diamonds, Gems, Gold, Silver, new or broken. Prices now_ exceptionally high. Established over 40 years. Mme. Naftal, 69 West 45th St., New York. Tel. Bryant 0670 JACK’S SHOE SHOP (Creators) 154 West 45th St., N. Y., Opp. Lyceum Theatre. A fascinating Treasure Trove of shoe models beautiful and practical. BERTHA TANZER, Box2, Station F., Bkiyn, N.Y. 2c stamp brings my catalog brimming over with novelties for shower, wedding, birthday and holiday gifts.

SHORT VAMP SHOES (Trade Mark) from stocl: or to order. First eb Boot Shop n America. Established 1 William Servstein, 6 West 37th St., N Y. Booklet. SHORT AND MEDIUM VAMP SHOES French and American Models. Round or Pointed Toes. Best for High Insteps. Catalog ‘“‘V’’ J. Glassherg, 225 West 42nd Street, New York BARNEY’S SHOE SHOP—Creators of short vamp shoes. Exclusive Autumn benchmade footwear at popular prices. Write for catalog—Dept. F. 233 West 42nd Street New York City CAPEZIO ORIGINATOR of FOOTWEAR fashions since 1887, Street, Theatrical & Ballet slippers. Send for illustrated folder or visit us. Canezio, 1634 Broadway at 50th St., New York City

Shopping Commissions

Washable Ribbons CASH’S WASHABLE RIBBONS Send 20c for one yard, or $1.00 for 6 yards of pastel washable ribbon for shoulder straps; the daintiest ribbon made. Nothing like it on the market. State colors preferred. Made by the manufacturers of the well-known Cash’s Woven Names. J. Cash, Inc., 85th St., So. Norwalk, Conn.

qT. &

Wedding Stationery 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $13.50 hand-engraved, correct in quality and every detail 100 Calling Cards. $2.75. Write for samples V. Ott Engraving Co., 1032 Chestnut St., Phila., Pa

Ladies’ Tailors MISS EDITH V. STOVEL, member of the Asso- ciated Purchasing Agents of New York, will shop for or with you in leading shops, No charge. 98 Morningside Ave., N. Y., Tel. Monument 7011 Engraved Wedding Invitations & Announcements. Everett Waddey Co. has for generations insured highest quality at reasonable prices. Del. Book Weddin Etiquette Free. 5 S. 11 St., Richmond, Va.

J. TUZZOLI, 27 West 46th St., N. Y., suit for $65 which cannot be duplicated Sader ‘Siok Quality & material faultless in make & fit. New models now ready. Furs remodeled. MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLING Purchasing Agent, Accompanying out-of-town patrons, No charge. References. Chaperoning. Tel. Trafalgar 6450 155 W. 78th St., N. Y. INVITATIONS AND ANNOUNCEMENTS Engraved in the very latest styles. Write for samples and prices. Prompt Service. Virginia Stationery Co., Dept. V., Richmond, Va.

D. VELTRY—Ladies’ Tailor. Select * fabrics, smartest modes for fall and winter wardrobes, for

Layetttes—Linens-—Monograms the woman of exacting taste. 425 Fifth Ave., N. Y. C. Tel. Caledonia 7111.

MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopper, will shop with you or send anything to you. Send for Magazine Services free. 366 Fifth Avenue, New York.

COPPER PLATE ENGRAVED Wedding Invitations and Announcements. Latest styles on best station- ery. Samples sent. Estimates on heraldry, Thomson & Nye, 212 Union Street, Providence, R. 1.

Page 62

56 VOGUE Presenting the Paddington Hat MADE IN LONDON Exclusively for Saks-F ifth Avenue THE VOGUE of tailored English sports hats for all informal occasions—both in town and afield— makes particularly sig- nificant this presentation of the Pad- dington hat. Its English atmosphere, dash and youthfulness appeal alike to the matron, undergraduate and debutante. Fashioned of soft felt, in a wide variety of shapes, in tones that smartly complement the sports or street costume. Sizes 634 to 7%. Priced from 9.75 to 30.00 SAKS ~FIFTH AVENUE FORTY-NINTH TO FIFTIETH STREET NEW YORK The thei on ft But. and plet autl port mod has Yor. mod line, tion in tl of tl Ame this are porte New char the ° what the y quire Yor! com] furtl mou: next of C] mer nm met mh th mi oe A

Page 63

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October 15, 1925 -

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HAT goes on in New York these days—literally and _ figuratively? The Paris Openings have passed with all their glamour and grandeur. The mode on the other side of the sea is established. But, until New York has affixed its sign and seal, the catechism of chic is not com- plete. Paris is the inspiration and final authority of fashion; New York is that im- portant factor that adapts the Parisian mode to the smart American. So Vogue has concentrated its interest upon the New York situation. Almost as soon as a Paris model is in sight of the New York sky- line, Vogue has recorded it and its destina- tion by photographs and sketches. Thus, in the coming issue, there will appear all of the Parisian successes that well-dressed American women will adopt as their own this winter. The smartest New York shops are represented in this portfolio of im- ported fashions, and some of the important New York designers have contributed charming designs. With this issue at hand the woman seeking knowledge will know what constitutes the correct wardrobe for the winter season and where it may be ac- quired. Then, because not even the New York Winter Fashions Number would be complete without Paris news, there will be further pages of new models from the fa- mous couturiers. The other chief concern of Vogue at its next appearance is with a first presentation of Christmas gifts. You may feel that sum- mer has just gone round the corner and

Contents for October 15, 1925 PARIS FASHIONS Cover Design by Georges Lepape SOCIO se os oP BOG ete oe oe Vogue’s-Eye View of the Mode. . . 59 . Lady Alexandra Metcalfe Frontispiece Paris Lays Its Fashion Cards on the fe: Rg et a taal a a 61-83 The Eighteenth-Century Mode in Georgian England ans 84-85 Society S#ap-shots << .... . . . 6-87 Mrs. Harold E. Talbott, junior. . . 88 Editorial: Lost Pleasures... . . 89 SEEN Ot THE HOGG. 5) se 22 90-91 The House with a Thousand Stars . 92-93 Close-Fitting Hats Keep the Smart Head ‘Smal... 94-95 The New Jumper Evening Gown 96 A Guide to Chic in Riding . . 97-99 Seen in the Shops . a= ¢ . 100-101 Vogue Designs for Dressmaking . . 102-112 On Her Dressing-Table . . .1. . 114 The Engravings of St. Memin . . 118-120 What They Read . ‘ . 122-124 Answers to Correspondents . 126-130 The Conversion of an Old House . . 152-154 The Basilica of Loyola . . . . . 156-158 Mary, Queen of Hearts. . ... . 160 Venice Puts Beauty into Lace . . . 162 Title Vogue registered in the U. S. Patent Office Copyright, 1925, by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc. VOL_NO. 66 NO. 8 WHOLE NO. 1273

Christmas is a long way removed from cur- rent events. Vogue, however, knows that, by taking an intensive interest in Christ- mas now, it will save you a great deal of trouble later on, and its campaign for big- ger and better gifts has been more carefully planned this year than ever before. Not that that is a literal statement, for special attention is being devoted to the small gifts—those of the so-important “‘little re- membrance”’ type—, but the variety is more extensive than ever. Forexample, the coming issue will have eleven complete pages of household decoration gifts, and each of these pages will be grouped at a definite price range, costing less than $5, from $5 to $10, from $10 to $15, and so on. Future issues will concentrate upon costume accessories, gifts for children, masculine gifts—until a practical and inclusive list with prices at- tached will have been assembled with which to conduct a successful gift campaign. Even if you should be one of the few who take no interest in New York fash- ions—in which case you had best take im- mediate stock of your mental attributes— or who believe that preparedness is one of the seven deadly virtues, Vogue still has charms for you. There is always that pano- rama of New York events—a running stream of comment that keeps one pleas- antly conversant with all that goes on in the smart world. Of course, you don’t want to lose the thread of the narrative— the November | Vogue reaches the news- stands on October 25! VY WE is published on the first and fifteenth of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Greenwich, Conn. Executive and Publishing Offices, Greenwich, Conn. Entered as second-class matter at the Post Office at Greenwich, Conn., under the Act of Merch 3, 1879. Editorial Offices—19 West 44th Street, New York, N. Y. Cable Address: Vonork. London: Aldwych House, Aldwych, London, W. C. 2, England. Cable Address: Volon. Paris: 2 rue Edouard VII., Paris, France. Cable Address: Vopar. Condé Nast, President; Francis L. Wurzburg, Vice-President; W. E. Beckerle, Treasurer ; M. E. Moore, Secretary; Edna Woolman Chase, Editor; Heyworth Campbell, Art Director ; Philippe Ortiz, European Director. Manuscripts must be accompanied by postage for their return if unavailable. Vogue as- sumes no responsibility for unsolicited contributions except to accord them courteous atten- tion and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless the drawings are sent at the order of Vogue or by arrangement with its New York office. Subscriptions for the United States, Panama Canal Zone, Porto Rico, Hawaii, Canada, and the Philippines, $5 a year in advance. Single copies, 35 cents. For other countries, subscription prices will be furnished on request. Remit by cheque, draft, or postal or express money order. Other remittances at sender’s risk. Address all correspondence to Vogue, Greenwich, Conn. Change of Address.—The address of subscribers can be changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please give both the new address and the name and address exactly as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. Four weeks’ notice is required for changing an address or for a new subscription. Printed in the U. S. A. by The Condé Nast Press.

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VOGUE agile 2 CARRILLE wor eneeeeeesn SOOO OS COEEDS CY OF LS FOS SEROOERSSEESS OEM OES CESASERRS Crane’s | Linen Lawn Steps out in a new | and fascinating ai shade. Pale Itis called "Tapestry Rose’’ and is as pretty ae SMMC Rn | as itsounds. A pleas- SESSA ATHSSSOSSSSSEHESESE ESO ESS CIS SRAAL ES LETT } i ing change for those ae who like variety but insist on having the assured styleand quality of this . famous paper. SS & ® ‘ | ; , x 3 + 4s eos > > te rs ss | ee © » # n= z >* tf 4 pom: $e é Pe +. ‘ ag o> 4 ” g ba ; 2 é $ s , © a we é ou 3 o cs wk prt x ee ¢ ® \ ea : x ? ae % he ° ie es Sew. ; eSANVe ; é ‘ x & +3 i é al See ae | PS glee = * ~~ sake oes Saves ste bees Sti 520. sania i ; ‘ i i j ; E ii HW j | f i £ i ~~ “i 1 2 0 0 2 ii ™ HH i il j it j ! i | ; ii I ; 8 ee eee ee | i i} i ; hk eo “Sahn jee mE PS eS I rte tataasaammanaeoen Now it’s CARRILLE — A paper that is smart, individual, and yet in perfect taste. Letter sheets in a dainty pattern of self-tone squares with sizes and folds well out of the ordinary; some with wide blue orders. Envelopes of odd dimensions, with colorful linings, ee TT PORE hee gs Br eT ThE SP lige The Newest Crane Creation harmonizing in design with the pattern of the paper. Crane’s Carrille is a paper worthy of your personal marking, but even unmarked, Carrille will give your correspondence a smart and artistic touch, dignified by its quality and fault- less taste. EATON, CRANE & PIKE COMPANY, 225 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK —— a an i a on a

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'GUE ew ng try as- ose but the nd a per. rking, ence a fault- October 15, 1925 HE waist-line is not important at the moment. High waist- lines, low waist-lines, medium waist-lines, waist-lines with the up-in-front movement, all appeared in the models at the Paris Openings. There were gowns with no waist-lines at all, gowns fitted to give a princesse line. But the query, “Where is the waist- line ?”’—the query that has been asked with anxiety in other sea- sons and that some fashion authorities are still agitating—is no longer important._ For the great truth is that, wherever the waist- line is, it does not change the silhouette. The lines of the body across the hips and above the hips are suggested in practically all the collections. And the trimming or the interest of the cut is centred there, giving the effect of a complete whole with its dec- oration at a central point, rather than a bodice and a skirt con- nected by a waist-line. NE of the most interesting new movements is the gipsy-like girdle—the low, broad girdle swathing the hips and giving a seductive line that, at intervals, has reappeared in the mode ever since it first girdled Cleopatra’s slender body. In other seasons, the appearance of this line might lead one to believe that it would indicate the position of the waist-line, but, this year, such is the subtlety of the designs that these girdles in no way break the continuity of the whole costume. Another striking feature is the princesse line, for here the new feeling for out- lining the body is more apparent than in any other type of cos- tume. This is, no doubt, a reaction against the severely straight lines of the boyish mode that has clothed us for so long. It is a part of the new feminine softness that has crept into frocks and wraps, and it is the basis of the majority of models, whether they actually follow the princesse line or are super- ficially marked by a belt. A third tendency that might seem to indicate a new waist-line—if one viewed the mode super- 59 ficially—is the up-in-front movement. This is notable in- many frocks and coats, but its raison d’étre has nothing to do with the waist-line. It is used because it is a graceful way in which to ac- cent and focus the fluttering fulness that adds animation to the front of so many of the most successful models of the season. FABRIC of great importance in the winter mode is velvet, and velveteen will be popular for youthful models. Velvet, however, will be used for all ages, in formal gowns for afternoon and evening, in coats and evening wraps, in skirts to accom- pany the tremeridously smart lamé blouse, and in innumerable hats. There will be velvet ensembles of great elegance, and metal brocade wraps will be lined with velvet. Velvet as a trimming is still another important use for this soft and always flattering fabric. Some particularly smart illustrations of vel- vet models are shown in the Chéruit gown at the right on page 67, the day frock from Premet at the right on page 78, the ermine- trimmed frock from Beer on page 80, and the exotic coat with bear fur made by Poiret and sketched on page 81. HE evening mode, when it is not of velvet, is a gorgeous, shimmering affair. Every French house shows jewel-like beaded dresses—like the lovely Jenny model of white georgette crépe embroidered in crystal and strass, on page 79, or the gown from J. Suzanne Talbot at the right on page 82. Still more glittering are the gowns of gold lamé, and there is nothing more chic than these in all the French array. Such a gown, from Lucien Lelong, is shown in the photograph on page 75. It is a model of great elegance and distinction, obtained by the ingenuity and intricacy of its cut and—still more—by the splen- dour of its fabric. THE EDITOR

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ciate een sadsiessons : ‘ Steichen LADY ALEXANDRA METCALFE Lhe wedding of Lady Alexandra Curzon, the daughter of the late Marquess Curzon of Ked- leston, England, and Major Edward C. Met- calfe took place in the Chapel Royal of Saint James’s Palace, especially lent by King George Lady Metcalfe is a goddaughter of Queen Mother Alexandra, after whom she was named. The wedding was of interest to American and London society, as her mother was the former Miss Mary Victoria Leiter, of Chicago } : — cones ne ante SA tt ESSE NON Siti Seti eee VOGUE SR a lc igtiine

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October 15, 1925 VOGUE 1) X i Nib Yang) 61 MODELS FROM CALLOT PARIS LAYS ITS FASHION CARDS ON THE TABLE Models That Define the Figure, Yet Have A Graceful, Softening Fulness, Are Trumps N the general maze of the Paris Openings —that bewildering array of thousands of winter costumes created by the greatest dressmakers of the world—, one thing stands out with exceptional clearness. It is the great importance of the anatomical cut. Vogue prophesied in its forecast of winter fashions that the natural lines of the body would greatly in- fluence those of the silhouette, particularly in that region be- between the underarm to several inches below the hips, and the couturiers have used the scissors thoroughly to fulfil this pre- diction. Intricacy of cut has been increasingly manifest now for several seasons, but it was a cut to manipulate fulness, to give an appearance of complicated simplicity. Now, in the newest of the best dresses, it is employed to define the fluid lines of the body, adding grace to grace, line to line. This definition is not hard and fast. The figure is never outlined in its entirety. But, by emphasis of certain parts of it, shoulder, hip, even the natural waist-line, the figure is thrown into rippling relief, in much the way that the wind playing over i's draperies reveals the figure of the Winged Victory. The Chanel model on page 66 is an illustration of this point. Here, the basic lines of the frock are slim and straight, emphasizing the contour of the figure raiher than concealing it. Yet, the fluttering draperies give an effect of fulness and motion. It is rather a Greek princesse line that the more forward- looking dresses approach, and here cut, like the wind, gives An evening wrap of coloured lamé and sable (left, above) emphasizes the sumptuousness of the new mode. Its cape sleeves are very smart. One of the loveliest in Callot’s se- ries of tulle dresses (right) is in mauve-grey graceful motion to frocks and prevents the silhouette from becoming a static thing. It has the ever-present flexibility of youth, and, at the same time, accomplishes the def- inite annulment of the gargonne influence. A finished mode is the tube silhouette that fell straight and weighted from shoulders to hem and that might have covered a woman or a bolster. As early as last winter, in the January 15 issue, Vogue prophesied the passing of that severely straight line and reported the ap- pearance of the circular flare in skirts. Now, this flare has reached a perfect flowering of development, and the tube sil- houette, from the standpoint of influence on the present fash- ions, might never have existed. THE New ELABORATION Slimness of figure is still vital, of course, but upon this is often massed concentrated fulness, loops, cascading draperies, or blousing bodices placed with consummate art and conscious exaggeration. The straighter dresses of this season have a softness and a quality of easily moving, extra material that is charming and feminine. A dress is apt to begin with a round or V neck, have a bodice intricately and subtly cut in semifitted fashion, and end in a skirt that falls from the bodice with full swing and, frequently, with broken line particularly in evening models.

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VOGUE SE So RRR RE RR NNMRC ARRON An even newer treatment of the silhouette has a bodice cut both to ripple softly and to blouse above sharply defined hips over a cleverly twisted or gipsy girdle, or the perfec- tion of cut alone obtains the graceful bloused effect. A very good example of the latter is the Vionnet day frock of green velours de laine sketched on this page. From a bodice of this type, the skirt frequently drops in straight lines, but with a straightness -that is graceful and yielding to body motion through fulness that is cleverly manipulated, although it is often slight. In the rare instances when the skirt is perfectly straight, a fuller overskirt usually accompanies it, trimmed or cut in such a way that it reaches its broadest expansion at the bottom, in abrupt contrast with the tighter slip below. This version accent (left). ee SBOE ROIS A CARDS 9 2° - Mie secon = a ses toeasere a mien aaeneen ae wee et | MODELS FROM VIONNET might be called the notched silhouette. The new slightly bloused bodice is achieved by subtle cut in the frock of green velours de laine, and the hips have the smart suggestion of On the white satin gown (right), fringe is used like fabric to outline the figure from under the arms to below the hips Many of the dresses sketched with this article show that the up-in-front movement in gowns is still an important factor, and logically so, for it is based on the flow of the body itself, whether it be attained by draping, trimming, belt placement, or cut. And the definite placing of the waist-line, high or low, has ceased to be of dominant interest to the couturiers of the mode. The absolutely flat back first showed signs of yielding to elaboration in such dresses as the Louiseboulanger gowns sketched on page 79 in April 1 Vogue, and the models, also from Louiseboulanger, on pages 65 and 69 of May 1 Vogue. Since then, this new interest in the back has been increasing steadily, and in every collection, at the Openings, there are val bri ten loo int tre: no tio! pez gov anc the ofte pla

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October 15, 1925

Kecelrec yA Cuz Karn nN RMN ABD A Mh eae ORS varying examples of cut and treatment that bring attention to—and frequently focus at- tention on—the back of a frock. Bows, loops, cascades, panels, rippling jabots, and intricate cut all play a part in this new treatment. Just as the location of the waist-line is no longer a question for frenzied specula- tion, so the exact spot in which fulness ap- pears is no longer a factor that dates a gown. Fulness—all forms of bulk— is now put where interest and balance demand it. The front, as well as the back, may be the concentration point of interest in a gown, and fulness is often a means of attaining this interest. Godets and pleats, especially the box pleat, both inverted and plain, and the circular cut are still favourite fulness devices.

MODELS FROM CALLOT A Chinese influence appears in the tunic frock of pale blue crépe de Chine bordered with black and em- broidered in pale colours (left). The black crépe de Chine dress (right) also has a tunic, banded with the beige lace that forms the wide cuffs and outlines the back panel

63

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But they are used in a more concentrated, ex- aggerated way than formerly. And they ap- pear in front, back, side, side-back, side- front, or even all around. Cascading loops, slight horizontal drapery, concentrated diag- onal drapery, all impose bulk on the basic slimness of the fashionable gown. The fulness in the heavier fabrics of win- ter, such as the velvets and woollens, is bound to give greater bulk and more definite outline where it occurs. But this is a winter of great richness and variety of materials. No woollen seems too heavy, no silk too light, to be given graceful and telling treatment. Prominent in evening fashions are the velvets—chiffon velvet and even the heavier milliner’s velvet. The cut-out velvets are seen less. Equal in importance with the velvets are the lamés,

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Imported by Wanamaker

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Imported by Madame Elisabeth MODELS FROM LOUISEBOULANGER Typical of Louiseboulanger, and also of the new mode, is the skilful draping of the soft cerise velvet of the frock above, arranged to give concentrated bulk on basic slimness. The Chinese-blue duvetine tailleur (left) has a slip-on jumper coat and smart trimming of black shaved lamb. Almond-green velvet trimmed with black lace and lined with in gold, silver, and colour, plain, brocaded, and with small all- over patterns. Velvet and lamé are sometimes combined. Satin, lustrous and heavy, makes some of the best evening gowns. Moire makes a limited number of great distinction. Chiffon is, as al- ways, well represented, as is tulle for diaphanous dance frocks. Gold, silver, and coloured lace make entire frocks and appear in combination with other materials.

black georgette crépe makes the jumper frock (right) In day fabrics, the heavy woollens in diagonal weave and small all-over patterns make many coats and some sports dresses. ‘There are many kasha sports dresses and ensembles. Jersey, too, is used for sports dresses and often for the jumper of a woollen daytime ensemble. Jean Patou has a series of sports ensembles in kasha and other woollens in which the jumper is of jersey with a horizontal stripe in colour.

oo oO UULelUM lO

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aker and orts les. per , of the October 15, 1925 | an \ SO BOSOM AOBROOEC 2 A cS OLED ECE SETAE SRE ITER: PEE Saosoonscsoneaonantes essence aes RORAARESCRBERSENOSSooouvonrenaenaONTN OR ann — nanan MODELS FROM LANVIN & — Models imported by Thurn Lanvin is featuring black kasha frocks. One with a front of green velvet is bordered with green and gold ribbon and trimmed with gold buttons and Japanese vison (left). A beige kasha. ensemblé (middle) is trimmed with Japanese mink and embroidered rib- bon. The sleeveless tunic blouse and undercuffs of the coat are of gold lamé. Lamé also makes a collar and cuffs on a beige crépe and kasha frock (right) Ziblikasha with a deep woven border in colour makes its appearance for sports; capria and tamisca (winter frisca) are also used for this type of costume. Poiret uses kashajour very effectively in a sports ensemble. Serge, wool, and silk rep, velours de Smyrne, broadcloth, moire, and velours de laine are all represented. Artificial silk, plain, ribbed, and with a small all-over pattern are used for dresses. Premet uses many of the small patterns in this artificial silk. Printed lizard designs on velvet appear in some of the collections. Crépe de Chine and georgette crépe continue their popularity. Jenny makes a whole series of simple chiffon frocks, many of them box pleated and most of them in dark blue. Lamé, both plain and brocaded in colour, is used on day frocks for trim- ming, tunics, and jumpers worn with contrasting skirts.

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VOGUE Se regener. cr orem omgn ree i i CHANEL MODEL IMPORTED BY WANAMAKER Chanel’s perfect use of draperies is illustrated by this graceful frock of black mousseline de soie, which has the flowing motion of the mode on a foundation as slim as youth itself. Four cir- cular sections float from hip to hem, and four more are attached to the little bolero. Boleros, placed at the back, are another feature to which Chanel is partial this season A WIND-LIKE MOTION SOFTENS BASIC SLIMNESS

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Wa October 15, 1925 CHERUIT MODELS IMPORTED BY HENRI BENDEL “Demi-Soupir” (right) is of black velvet and chiffon with an extremely interesting hem- line that is peculiar to Chéruit. It is achieved by lining the huge godets with chiffon in such a way that the velvet is drawn up under itself in a bouffant manner. “Au Dela” (below) of black velvet printed in rose, blue, and white has a circular back panel with a section that juts out in a new and significant way 67 o* geese? *- Leather coats appear at many houses, and leather is used for trimming at some houses. Cloth and fur coats are sometimes lined with leather. Long coats and short sports coats of leather are in gay colours, such as green, blue, and red and in softer shades of grey and beige. Each of these models has a distinct chic of its own, due to the talent of the designers—Callot, Moly- neux, Worth, and Lanvin—and to the unusual softness and pli- ability of the leather. Chanel has a vivid red suéde suit with a short coat with a fringed choker scarf and a circular skirt. (Continued on page 170)

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LOUISEBOULANGER MODEL IMPORTED BY WANAMAKER The girdle of this remarkably draped frock is made by folding the entire skirt width on itself in a peplum-like effect. The skirt of gold-and-red lamé with its snug back and fulness concentrated at the side front is made without benefit of scissors. The deeply bloused bodice fashioned of pink chiffon and trimmed with beaded and embroidered lamé is an important note of the season VOGUE

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October 15, 1925 PAQUIN MODELS IMPORTED BY MACVEADY The balanced treatment of jabots and drapery exemplified in these two frocks appears in several important collections. The frock at the left is of black crépe de Chine with the black broken in accebted fashion; in this case by a band of hyacinth-blue crépe de Chine and narrow gold galloon. The frock at the right shows the smart use of both sides of crépe satin in a raspberry shade 69

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VOGUE WORTH MODEL IMPORTED BY SAKS-FIFTH AVENUE Worth coats are exceptionally smart, this season, and many of them combine fur and velvet—both of which are very important. This wine-red velvet coat has a silver lamé lining and a long sable scarf attached at the back and wrapped around the neck. The diagonal working of the fur and the decorative ar- rangement on the sleeves are particularly interesting THE NEW MODE IS RICH IN FUR AND DEEP IN VELVET

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October 15, 1925 An evening ensemble of great elegance is this wrap of ermine and gown of rose velvet. The designer has wisely refrained from painting the lily and depends only upon skilful cut and a cluster of conventional roses in tones of rose and red for the trimming ee eee nee | MODELS FROM DRECOLL SNARE EN OR SO a RENEE: Imported by B, Altman A suggestion of the princesse silhouette is one of the smart means of outlining the natural lines of the body. This frock of gold lamé and black velvet is an _ excellent illustration of this important silhouette and introduces a scroll design in pleated lamé

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Perens sinnininenne aie Imported by Best MODELS FROM JEAN PATOU One of the striking features of Jean Patou’s collection is the interesting treatment accorded to good furs. In the ensemble shown at the left above and in the seated figure below, breitschwantz is combined with a collar and cuffs of krimmer, and the blouse is of gold lamé. The frock in the middle, named “Grége,” uses both sides of string coloured crépe satin—a smart note. “Mon- seigneur,” at the right, is of purple kasha with a tie of enterald-green moire Imported by Lord and Taylor COSTUMES USE CONTRAST IN FUR, FABRIC, OR COLOUR

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October 15, 1925 Ces = ae acne - Two frocks imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue LONG SLEEVES ARE DECREED SLEEVES MODELS FROM MOLYNEUX The frock at the left, of marine-blue rep embroidered in black dots, has a skirt with two flounces edged with scallops, giving a smart hem-line. The middle dress is of marine-blue serge with Molyneux’s special shoulder cut, applied bands, and tightly pleated panels cut in points. At the right is a blue wool tailleur illustrating the return of the bolero. The gown at the right, below, ts of black satin beaded in crystal. The knotted ends at the back are characteristic of Molyneux OR NO Imported by Best

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74 VOGUE Imported by Stewart | L Imported by Stewart NOVEL DETAILS BRING CHIC TO THESE MODELS MODELS FROM RENEE Chiffon and velvet, used in combination, as in “Rosette” (at the left, above) are very smart at the moment. Here, the frock is of rose chiffon with a one-sided girdle and silver-edged leaves of the velvet. “Bon Ami,” (at the right, above) uses both sides of navy-blue crépe satin, as do many other new frocks. The loose sleeve and tight cuff, the tiny tie collar, and the defined waist-line are characteristic of Rénee. The coat at the left, called “Mousquetaire,” is of green velvet and mink, repeating the importance of velvet and fur. Another frock using both sides of crépe satin is “Francine” (at the right). It is in blue, with the tiered skirt that is seen at several houses, and with piping as its trimming Imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue Imported by Stewart GC

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October 15, 1925 Steichen LUCIEN LELONG MODEL IMPORTED BY BERGDORF GOODMAN Two mink-trimmed bias panels fall from this gown of green-and-gold lamé—a gown of great elegance and richness, obtained by its gleaming fabric and its intricate cut; posed by Marion Morehouse; jewels from Black, Starr and Frost GOLD LAME IS THE BRILLIANT SUCCESS OF THE EVENING

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76 VOGUE : LY i oats Z\0C* Wand nO ai 27 SZ — oo eS . Sa MODELS FROM MARTIAL ET ARMAND The draping of the gold lamé evening gown at the left falls from a wide embroidered girdle to give a broken hem-line. The gown beside it illustrates the decorated back. It is of nile-green georgette crépe with a double jabot and embroidery of gold and silver beads. The black rep frock at the right has a new line obtained by the cloth bow and the bolero effect AN IMPORTANT FACT BEHIND THE NEW MODE IS THE ELABORATION AT THE BACK

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\~] October 15, 1925 Imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue eer “at 7 i 3 MG , a rd FY thie, ~ pe Mld ACL TAT TC i v Imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue Imported by Stewart MODELS FROM D@UILLET “Cigarette,” at the left, above, is of cocoa georgette crépe with the smart up-in-front girdle, a new arrangement of pleats, and an apron trimmed with bleached mole. “Toi et Moi,” at the right, repeats the amazing vogue of velvet. It is in black with tubular coral beads forming a flower design. “Je Sors,” at the left, combines brown woel velours and bleached mole THE UP-IN-FRONT LINE STILL RISES ABOVE A GRACEFUL FLARE OF CONCENTRATED FULNESS

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VOGUE iia Re eR er PREMET “Jean-Jean,” a coat of heavy En- x sh woollen in a beige-and-brown mixture, has the bolero back that is seen on a number of very smart models. It is trimmed with black silk braid, and the large collar and cuffs are of a long-haired fur in russet-brown Und Nem-tines Increase mn Sfulney Imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue ‘Boleros ‘Pack Up (oat. PREMET The slightly fitted bodice and the curved hip treatment of this black velvet frock, caied “Pas sur la Bouche,” are ch-racteristic of Pre- met and significant of present fash- ions. There is a ile grosgrain tie, and a narrow gosgrain gilet appears at the front

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October 15, MODELS FROM JENNY When the straight silhouette is used, as in the coat above, it is as a background for complication of detail. This model is of wine-red wool lined and trimmed with black satin on which are encrusted arabesques of cara- cal and shaved lamb. The gown at the right, of white georgette crépe em- broidered in crystal and strass, illus- trates the increased richness of beaded and jewelled dresses Imported by Franklin Simon EN Ft wants? —- 3 6 ' $ e M,

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VOGUE MODELS FROM BEER Fur trimmings, points, and velvet are used in a thousand ways in the new collections. All three meet on “Réquisitoire,” a black panne velvet dress, sketched at the left, with an apron that falls from a high set-in belt and is bordered with a band of ermine cut in points. “Tl ne Faut Jurer de Rien,” the coat sketched below, has its fulness placed low at the back. It is ‘of tobacco-brown velvet gen- erously trimmed with fur collar and cuffs, as are practically allthe new coats

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October 15, 1925 MODELS FROM POIRET “Ours,” the coat at the right, illustrates Poiret’s skilful use of fur. The coat is of myrtle-green velvet, and the fur is an unusual one for such treatment—bear with very long hair. This striking arrangement gives the ef- fect of great fulness at the sides. ‘“Carquois,” below, is one of the best examples of the gipsy girdle. Here, the girdle is of lamé ribbons, in blue, rose, gold, and black, on a frock of black tulle and black voile embroi- dered in silver and gold

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FROCKS OF ELABORATE CUT DEFINE THE FIGURE AND HAVE UNEVEN HEM-LINES so nin wil a ae RTE VOGUE one MODELS FROM J. SUZANNE TALBOT In the frock at the left, the Egyptian influence— still sponsored by J. Suzanne Talbot—appears in the soft girdle that crosses in front above concen- trated fulness and defines the figure at the back. It is one of the many velvet gowns of the season, and its collar and cuffs are of copper coloured metal leaves with a crinkled surface. The gown above, of blue, red, and green lamé, follows the lines of the figure above deep pleats that give a flare at the bottom PRT TELM TE NR Sha Aaee eet eh ms tale ACER OA et 74 ais gr SS are TELS ERAN RN SSIES TES TE Fn SFE OR

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INGENIOUS DRAPERY GIVES MODELS, FROM LENIEF “Rose Trémiére,” the gown above, surprises one MOVEM ENT TO T H E by being a two-piece model. It is of rose satin with a supple drapery attached at the back, ending in a godet section held by a twisted motif in'old gold. “Lac d’Argent,” at the right, illus- Py a, y a, y NY trates the tendency to concentrate fulness in a NEW SO Fk T NESS O I T H E MO DE single spot. This frock of tarnished silver lamé is very simple in front, more ample in back, and extremely full at the left side under an ornament of gold and strass beads

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(Left) During the reign of the Georges, feminine coif- fures were covered by a small ruffled cap of lace, making a demure frame for HE eighteenth century, which witnessed the famous succession of Louis on the throne of France, saw in England a similar succession of kings of a single name, the Georges, whose reigns filled all but the first fourteen years of the eighteenth century and overflowed for thirty years into the nineteenth. It was an era of great events. When George I. succeeded to the throne of England, in 1714, the magnificent Louis XIV. still held autocratic sway over France. When George IV. died, in 1830, both the Ameri- can and the French Revolutions had been fought ; Napoleon had lived and reigned and conquered and died an international prisoner on the island of Saint Helena; the Second Restoration was tottering to its fall, to be replaced by Louis Philippe, “Citizen King” of France, while, in England, constitutional liberty had become an established fact and the divine right of kings was consigned to oblivion. THE REIGN OF THE GEORGES Very different from their contemporaries, the autocratic Louis, were these English Georges, only one of whom was born in England and whose ignorance of even the language of the country over which they ruled made a government by ministers imperative. They inherited the throne only by the most distant of connections, and their affiliations were, and remained, German. The death of Queen Anne left no direct heir to the English throne. All of her seventeen children had died in infancy or early child- hood; her sister Mary was dead; and her half-brother, the Old Pretender, son of James II. by a later marriage, was debarred by his Catholic faith. The succession, therefore, devolved upon George, the eldest son of Sophia, who was a granddaughter of James I. and who married Ernest Augustus, Elector of Hanover. The House of Hanover thus established on the Eng- lish throne is still the reigning house in England, but the connection with Hanover was broken on the accession of Queen Victoria, who could not, according to the Salic law, inherit the German possessions, The effect of this change of ruling 1775. he (GrghtenthTPentury Ollod. ink Korg in©ngland This is the twenty-eighth article in a series on the history of cos- tume, from its early beginnings up to the present time a young face house on the mode may be readily imagined, for Germany has never been a leader of modes or manners. The autocratic Stuarts, with their theories of the preeminence of kings and their strong French connections, had been poor states- men, but unquestioned arbiters of the mode. With William and Mary and Anne, the social prestige of the throne had diminished. With the Georges, it vanished completely. They were strangers in a strange land which accepted them politically and despised them socially, heaping ridicule on their German ways and modes. The court became a dreariness of unvarying routine, guided by rulers whose chief delight was to flee to the pleasures of Hanover, and the mode continued to be derived from France and adapted to the sobriety of Eng- lish taste, now left without the brilliant influence of the Stuarts toward French extravagances and French manners. The first two Georges brought no higher moral standards—and infinitely worse manners—than prevailed at the courts of Louis XIV. and Louis XV., but the reign of George III. brings something of the same reaction to ordered living which characterizes the reign of Louis XVI. THE AGE OF POWDER AND PATCHES In England, as in France, the eighteenth cen- tury is the age of powder and of patches, of spreading hoops and towering coiffures, of pow- dered wigs and flaring, snug-waisted coats. It is also an age of great men, of Addison and Steele, of Pope and Swift and Johnson and Fielding, of Pitt the elder and Pitt the younger, and of the two Walpoles. To some extent, also, it was the age of women of intellect, though the English “blue- stockings” never attained to the posi- tion and influence of the French salonniéres. More than all else, how- ever, it was the age of the picturesque in modes and in manners, the age of heart-breaking belles and_ intrepid beaux, of dashing highwaymen and reckless gamblers, of duels and coffee- houses, sedan-chairs and post-chaises, of Ranelagh and Vauxhall, the most magnificent of English pleasure re- sorts. The social world centred in London, making brief excursions to drink the waters at Bath or Tunbridge (Left) Characteristic fea- tures of the late eighteenth- century mode were the hoop, the pointed bodice, and the elaborate bands of quilling ae mY f “PY, om fA

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October 15, 1925 1794 (Left) The mob cap fash- toned of lace or sheer yy 4 7 | muslin was a later and larger version of the lit- 1799 tle ruffled cap Wells, while the country gentleman on his estates was condemned to almost complete isolation by the bad roads and the ever-present highwayman. To an extent incomprehensible to a modern world, social life found its setting in the public gardens and resorts, the shops and the streets, where beau and beggar rubbed elbows and the fine lady must have found her cumbrous hoop a welcome protection from jostling crowds. Cal- throp thus paints a vivid picture of the streets of eighteenth-century London. “We find ourselves, very willingly, discussing the shoes of the King of France with a crowd of powdered beaux; those shoes the dandyism of which has never been surpassed, the heels, if you please, painted by Van der Meulen with scenes During the eighteenth century, muffs— sometimes of fur, and sometimes of feath- ers—were an important accessory of the costume, and they increased in size as the century advanced from Rhenish victories! Or we go to the toy- shops in Fleet Street, where we may make as- signations or buy us a mask, where loaded dice are slyly handed over the counter. Everywhere— the beau. He rides the world like a cockhorse, or like Og the giant rode the Ark of Noah, steering it with his feet, getting his washing for nothing, and his meals passed up to him out by the chim- ney. Here is the old soldier begging in his tattered coat of red; here is a suspicious-looking character with a black patch over his eye; here, the whale- bone hoop of a petticoat takes up the way, and above the monstrous hoop is the tight bodice, and out of that comes the shoulders supporting the radiant Molly—patches, powder, paint, and smiles. Here, a woman passes in a_nithsdale 85 (Right) Leghorn hats, trimmed with flowers or ribbons, or both, were a charming type of milli- nery about 1809 hood, covering her from head to foot. Here, the beau, the everlasting beau, in gold lace, wide cuffs, full skirts, swinging cane. A scene of flash- ing colours. The coats embroidered with flowers and butterflies, the cuffs a mass of fine sewing, the three-cornered hats cocked at a jaunty angle, the stockings rolled above the knee. Wigs in three divisions of loops at the back pass by, wigs in long queues, wigs in back and side bobs. Lacquer- hilted swords, paste buckles, gold and silver snuff- boxes flashing in the sun, which struggles through the mass of swinging signs.” The flowing, full-bottomed wig was already passing from the mode at the beginning of the eighteenth century, and a great variety of smaller (Continued on page 140)

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“VW Mddddddd Z JMU Udddddddddlldddddttt (Left) Miss Gertrude (Right) Mrs. Herbert Sanford is the daughter Claiborne Pell, junior, of Mr. and Mrs. John - was formerly Miss Sanford, of New York Matilda Bigelow SSS SSAA AAMAS AAAI AAMAAA MAA SAAMI SS G GY rr ceccccccrcaaccaaad SSSA SSSSSSSSISISSSSIIIISSIS ISI S j LETTE, MMMM dd Underwood and Underwood Mrs. Frederick T. Freling- huysen, of New York, was Miss Mai D. Watson be- fore her marriage (Left) Mrs. Carter R. (Right) Mrs. Joseph E. Leidy, formerly Miss Widener is a popular . Fifi Widener, is the hostess of Philadelphia, daughter of Mr. and Pennsylvania, and Mrs. Joseph E. Widener Palm Beach, Florida X \ SX N N \ \ \ N \ \ ZZ, \ \ \ \ WM MMOLE f WDM é U/L Lccccaceccecccezlee ‘ ee eccedccceececcccecc QCD ccc, WU) Four photographs by Yotograms Ny yy Vy a Mt Mltyy VL DOLOLOOULULOUWUW??“?POO9!

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October 15, 1925 SOCIETY CAMERA ON THE WAY TO SMART ACTIVITIES Mt typ, Vddddddddegdegdscccedddeeellddddddlltledeefeetetltlttdtl Y yy WWW (Left to right) The Misses Julia H. PASSES THE ie 4] ~~! MOM OOLENO MOO Miss Patsey J. Morris is the daughter of Mrs. Waterbury Morris, of New York WOOOMNYWH (Left to right) Mrs. Sylvanus Stokes, and Raquel Pueyrredonare the daugh- junior, Prince Serge Obolensky, ters of Mr. Honorio Pueyrredon, Ar- who married Miss Alice Muriel gentine Ambassador at Washington Astor, and Sir Adrien Bailey Four photographs by Fotograms (Left to right) Miss Millicent Hammond, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Ogden H. Hammond, of New York, Miss Carol D. Brown, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Alex Cushing Brown, of Cleveland, Miss Mary Ham- mond, sister of Miss Millicent Hammond, Miss Rose G. Davis, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. Dudley Davis, of New York, and Miss Katrinka Suydam, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Hendrick Suydam, of New York

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88 International Newsreel] Mas Faro C. LALBOTI, JUNIOR *, % VOGUE Mrs. Talbott, the former Miss Margaret Thayer, is the daugh- ter of Mrs. John B. Thayer, of Haverford, Pennsylvania. Her wedding was an event of much interest, as she is a great social favourite and a successful hunter of big game in Africa Soren siidtuall vel ces to col wo iti an sin Cal ful edg in hay tral (or not thre tha ber: covi

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om October 15, 1925 ~~ es SS rf 89 Be ode. Be DT A HS Everything in This Best of Worlds Has to Be Paid for; Even the Acquisition of One Kind of Blessing Entails The Loss of Others, and It Is Often Well to Recall It OME of the material blessings of the present day, by which we set such store, really give us no more than they have taken away. We may think ourselves fortunate, indeed, when they bring us an equivalent. Motors, now, are only just re- storing the good roads and roadside inns of stage-coach days; and, while once unknown and always lovely parts of the coun- tries of the world are more open to us, we are lucky if we are not either whisked through them at a pace that leaves but a vertigoish impression on the mind, or prevented from enjoying even that semi-satisfaction because the sign-fiend has been filling the landscape with his horrors. Wherever we want to look, we see terrible billboards advertising terrible wares, or Bible texts of the most awe-inspiring character crying to us from the rocks that our end is near. With the mad driving of the present class of charioteers, this is only too possible, too, at any moment! Whether we survive, however, or whether we don’t, the pictur- esqueness of views is lost to us. HEN, the sentiment and romance of locomotion behind horses, or on horseback, are not to be found behind any steering-wheel. Speed, skill, science, excitement, drama are there, the swoop and sweep of the wind among clouds of dust, but, though machinery may get one to one’s destination quicker than gallop- ing hoofs can, it misses much by the way. Moreover, a good horse is a companion, while a good motor-car is just a great con- venience. A very great convenience, to be sure; almost a ne- cessity in conveniences when we have to annihilate space in order to live among our fellows, but there were days when nobody could annihilate it more swiftly than the animal he drove, or bestrode, could cover the ground. And the world was none the worse off, really. Actions which required space-covering qual- ities beyond the power of horses were simply not performed, and since no one was expected to perform them, what did it matter? Well, we have our motors, from the grandest to the simplest, and they have in a great measure lost us the horse, the care of him and the love of him. What they give us in ex- change is the easy ability to get farther faster—perhaps a doubt- ful blessing. OR, if time and distance are obliterated by swiftly moving machines, so is our old-time leisure denied us. The knowl- edge that we can reach any one of half a dozen different places in an hour, where once the afternoon’s journey entailed would have daunted us, is not a peaceful knowledge. On the con- trary, because we can do so much, we are always driving ourselves (or being driven) to do more. And, if we stop at home, we are not sure of cloistered quiet, for the motors of a friendly world threaten our seclusion. Not that we become inhospitable, but that hospitality to motorists has no limit of time or of the num- bers entertained, and to set the unknown number of welcoming covers is often difficult. HESE sapient reflections seem to have led our imagina- tions altogether countryward, but we can think of the city and many benefits under which we more or less labour there. What, for instance, has the telephone done to our time and our tempers, urban or suburban? Undermined them, to say the least. We have just lamented that advertisements, even those calling attention to the most useful luxuries, spoil our views; and motors, more commodious than the prairie-schooners and as rapid as railway trains, have still lost us the horse and the pleasures of idleness; telephones masquerading as trouble-savers lure us into taking an amount of trouble practically inconceiv- able. Eight times out of ten, the simple act of unhooking the receiver from the transmitter involves a person in difficulties he never would willingly have brought upon himself. It is the fault of the initial movement. If only that were not so fatally easy, many of us would leave the instrument severely alone. As it is, we provoke our Fate. We can hardly ever resist the tempta- tion of trying to accomplish the all-but-impossible by telephonic means. Dialing may do some good—for we know many in- veterate telephoners whom this system has completely dis- couraged—, but, perhaps, the company will find this out and stop the spread of the dial. In this case, with business and pleasure increasing at their present rate, we shall not only lose tempers permanently, but sanity, as well. HEN, there’s the typewriter; as clever a little machine as ever was invented. Every man’s own printer on the prem- ises, and the ease of reading letters and manuscripts—as well as writing them—greatly augmented! But where’s penmanship gone? Where’s the art of letter-writing? What sort of litérary composition do we get from the process of dictating the top strata of our seething or our stagnant brains to the living secretary who will transfer it indirectly, or directly, to the instrument? Less concise is our style, less coherent, in general. It takes a very unusual mind to express itself with the same thought and care in speech that it would in writing. Even those who tap their own keys often allow themselves several retypings. And, for private correspondence, all grace, all charm, and a great deal of personality are lost if the pen of the sender has not conveyed the sentiments of the sender direct to the person addressed. E are not prepared to go quite to the length of Ecclesiastes and consider man’s lack of uprightness due to the many inventions sought out by him. Some of the very ones we have been writing about—indeed, all but the billboards—are marvel- lously convenient, and of the utmost consequence and comfort to dwellers in the universe. But, like many other luxuries, overuse of them brings its own penalty, and the loss of certain senti- ments, romances, graces, charms, and ceremonies, certain deli- cate aloofness, certain leisurely limitations, is to be counted, at least, on the opposite side, when we boast our progress.

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90 % j 4 ' Steichen HE theory is that one returns from a va- cation refreshed, reinvigorated, infused with eagerness joie de wivre, weltsch- merz, and an irrepressible desire to convert all the bouyant energy one has collected in the country, on the hilltops, and at the seaside into immediate, joyous, and world-smashing action. Action that will do miraculous things for oneself, for one’s friends, one’s country, the universe. The fortnight or the month spent in a strange atmosphere is supposed to blow the mustiness from one’s spirit, to tone it up, recolour it, as a painting that has hung too long exposed to dust and the weather and time comes out fresh and bright from the process known as “restoration.” That is the theory, and it is sometimes true of people. But it is not true of the theatre—not this season, at any rate. The theory goes further. A_ holiday re- awakens kindliness, generosity in man. That may be true of most men; it is not true of dramatic critics. But, perhaps, like John Alden, I should speak for myself and only for myself. This is not meant for apology; just for expla- nation. For, if what follows seems unduly severe, even bitter, I am, I am convinced, merely mak- ing the punishment fit the crime, and that is what, wanting a better word, is known as justice. So to the stern task of meting out justice ! The uncomfortable quality of justice is that fairness is indigenous to it. In all fairness, then, it should be said at the outset that the first period of the theatrical year is the wildcat season. Managers withhold their more promis- ing productions until the “town” has come back and settled down, until such time as the people, who, by their patronage, give a play its initial start towards success, are ready to resume play- going. In this first period, theatres are easier to obtain than later; therefore, many fledgling producers rush in on a blind chance. It is quite as nebulous and bewildered as that. But then, the theatre, as has been remarked often. VOGUE oN ON 1k J IAQL by DAVID CARB (Lejt) Estelle Winwood will have the leading woman's role in “The Buccaneer,” a new play by Laurence Stallings and Maxwell Anderson, in which William Farnum will play the part of Morgan, the famous eighteenth-century pirate. Miss Winwood’s costume is of grey taffeta with gold and silver lace is a gambler’s profession. People who make that remark are apt to forget that gamblers usually have evolved a “system” from their experience, that there is a grain of reason in their madness, and the majority of the plays, thus far, even those produced by experienced managers, show little more raison d’étre than if sponsored by gamblers taking their first fling. It may be argued that a play in manuscript is and must always remain an unknown quantity, that its values can never be really ascertained until an audience has reacted to it, that a major- ity of all plays fail. I am not concerned here with success and failure; my distemper arises from the inanity, the footlessness, the technical, emotional, and human absurdity of most of the exhibits at the moment stamping the word “amateur” on the most professional street in history. Let me add hastily that I am not defending Broadway. That is not my role in life, literature, or the pursuit of happiness; I am plainly and simply—I hope—trying to tell

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E “Se fF BS S SYS es DV aw ee ee Se) ee — October 15, 1925 how I felt during and after wit- nessing the pieces that have evoked this outburst. “THE MUD TURTLE” XHIBIT A is “The Mud Turtle,” by Elliott Lester, in which A. E. and R. R. Riskin star Helen MacKellar. Lem Tustine goes to the city to sell his father’s unharvested wheat. There, in a restaurant, he meets a_ waitress, marries her, and brings her to his family’s “Beyond the Horizon” farm. His father, for no discern- ible cause, calls her vile names, actually strikes her, and Lem does nothing. Kate vows to get even with o!d Tustine and to have no relations with her husband until he has shown himself man enough to stand up for his wife. By the use of sex appeal on a farm-hand and of rain on the crops, she wins both ways. A not implausible tale —a tale, indeed, that in variations has served the theatre well and will doubtless serve it again and again. But not when told shod- dily, as in “The Mud Turtle.” The author saves whatever he has for the “big scenes;” there is one at the end of each act. The rest of the time, he dribbles. And even the “big scenes” are not moving; they have the same quality of ex- citement that a goose manifests when running to water—squawks and a wild and futile flapping of the wings. Tustine is all hard wickedness, Lem all weakness and doting love, Kate, despite her vow of ven- geance and her harsh determination, sweet and sticky. At least, that is the way Miss MacKellar plays her. The pace of the production is deadly. Willard Mack, the director, has stressed everything much too much. The manager who engages him to direct an- other play should present him with a large and keen pruning knife. . There is, for example, a character Steichen called ‘“Matey”—well played by Claude Cooper—who “plants” his forecast of rain so hard and so often that Kate’s victory is achieved before war has been declared. ‘The Mud Turtle” is dime novel; that would be. nothing against it, but it is also crude, flat, uninteresting, and pretentious. . ** THE SEA WOMAN” ™ HE SEA WOMAN” is also dime novel— frankly so. It is good old-fashioned melo- drama containing seduction, bootlegging, false vows on the Holy Bible, noble renunciation, false accusation, attempted murder, real murder, suicide, and what-not—all ending in a “great, spectacular scene” with real—and choking— smoke, fire, falling timbers, and more noise than the Little Theatre has ever heard before. It is sensational, thrilling melodrama, more than good of its kind and for the most part excellently acted. Blanche Yurka, whose Gina in “The Wild Duck” last winter was at least eight of the ten best performances of the year, brings to the part of Molla Hansen a technique, a compre- hension, an art, miles above the rdle and yet strangely within the role. Her art is like good manners—the ability to be at ease in any com- pany, to put the company at ease, to “fit in,” and at the same time to be distinguished. I saw her play the temperamental heroine of Marilyn Miller’s first new vehicle since “Sally” started its record- breaking run, three years ago, will be “Sunny,” anew musical comedy in which she returns to the New Amsterdam Theatre “Enter Madame” in a stock company during the summer, and I felt then as I did when she played Gina, while she was playing Molla, in every role in which it has been my fortune to see her, that she is an actress of such resource that no character could call it all forth and no one attendance take in what is there. I in- variably leave the theatre after one of her per- formances with the conviction that I have been able to absorb only the surface of what she has laid before me, with the desire to go back night after night—every night, and that even then something would elude me. ; Rea Martin plays a tense part tensely—per- haps a bit too stridently. Roger Pryor is a handsome, manly, convincing hero; he shades his work admirably. Paul Kelly is such a vil- lain as you read about—or used to when you were younger and no one was looking. Charles Halton keeps the low comedy in its place. “The Sea Woman” afforded me a rousing, smashing evening. (Continued on page 156) MMllld Dorothy Wilding, London In the new English edition of “Char- lot’s Revue,” coming to this country tin Noveniber, Gertrude Lawrence will again be co-starred with Beatrice Lillie, Jack Buchanan, and Herbert Mundin—the successful quartette of the first “Charlot’s Revue”

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THE The door of Star House was copied from an old one seen in France, starred in each panel towards the Third Avenue “L,” you will see what seems to be the narrowest house in New York, thirteen feet wide and five stories high, with a double French door painted dark green with eight panels each holding four gold stars. I know you can’t miss the door, because I constantly hear passers-by exclaiming about it. It was really copied from a door that I saw in an old French chateau. At first, little boys stole my stars, pried them off the door, so now they are screwed on firmly. There are also stars on the cornice of my house, but they are so high in the air that no one ever sees them. I suppose, to some people, it seems absurd to give a city house a name; but, if you loved houses as much as I do, you would realize that a well- beloved thing earns a name. Because of this, I called my house “Star House” long before I actually acquired it. I: YOU walk through Thirty-Eighth Street UNATTAINABLE STARS The stars I have not collected would make a much more interesting story than the ones I have. I can not remember when I first began to collect stars in my travels through the shops, houses, and churches of foreign cities. Why they should be so much more interesting to me than any other form of decoration, I do not know, but there are hundreds of definite memories in my mind that are brilliant pictures—the starry blue of the facade of Saint Mark’s in Venice; the starred ceilings of old Italian churches; the blue and gold starred interiors of old, heavily carved chests; the inevitable stars in the backgrounds of certain Italian primitives. Spain, too, is full of stars, but the ones I covet most are the four great iron jardiniéres, thickly starred, holding their flowering plants of delicate iron leaves and flowers, atop the Giralda Cathedral at Seville. I have a photograph of those iron jardiniéres, which are huge globes of hollow metal with thousands of stars cut out of it. In France, my most coveted stars are in that little, painted, pale room in Malmaison, where the walls are hung with narrow pink ribbons brocaded with white stars. There was also a little clock of blue enamel covered with thousands of gold stars, which I saw in a shop in Paris and have never forgotten. So much for stars I do not own. Chief among my own starry possessions is an Aubusson rug of the Directoire period, which I found years ago in a London basement. The field of this rug is a pale, faded brown covered with irregular white stars. The centre medallion holds a great violet urn on a white ground, and this medallion has borderings of black, sky-blue, Harvey White An old silver cake basket pierced with hundreds of stars is among the most treasured possessions of this collector of stars HOUSE WITH | A THOUSAND STARS Hitching One’s Wagon to a Star Is Successfully Applied To Household Decorations By RUBY ROSS WOOD and violet. This rug really started me on my collection. The only other rug that I have ever seen with a starry field is the Savonnerie rug in Mount Vernon, which was a gift from Lafayette to Washington (I think) and was woven to fit one of the little irregularly shaped rooms of the lovely old house. Really, when 1 think it over, I haven’t bought so many stars myself. They seem to have come to me. The star rug may have attracted them all. There is an old American Navy flag, all blue with white linen stars embroidered upon it, that was sent to me from Newport. It must be a very old one, because there are only twenty-three stars on it. There is a roll of old white satin brocaded in stars which was sent to me and has not yet been used. I have tucked away, unused. an exquisite umbrella handle of crystal and gold engraved with stars, and some old paste stars for slipper buckles. Another treasure is a little star patch-box of blue enamel powdered with gold stars. There is a pair of star-shaped tortoise- shell earrings inlaid with gold, but, as I do not wear earrings, I have loaned them to a friend who loves stars as much as I do and who wears them charmingly. STARS THAT SHINE IN THE HOUSE When you enter the entrance-hall, which is the full width of my house, and see a black marble floor inlaid with gold stars, you will probably think that the star business is being overdone. A lantern, star shaped, hangs in the centre of the ceiling here. But, from this point on, the stars are so unobtrusive that you only see them by chance. Of course, my star rug is a dramatic thing, but there are thousands of little stars in the house that are rarely observed. In addition to the stars that I have created or collected for (Continued on page 134) > stitial

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b Y 4 QW SS WS SQW \11]],° °° =e "' ee" "*™EbhFE WAY J SG 'o°TFE.='wW’°wr 5 [ wv vel b= SG © \ Harvey White October 15, 1925 pieeeece ete ces soe numer eat (Left) A painted closet door in the dining-room, designed by Victor White, has red stars on a silver- gilt ground LA ——- — (Right) The Empire cab- inet has one gold star on its door, and the Empire chair has one large gilt star on a sky-blue ground QQ QQ "€6>°>°" ="°"’"PP"7D OM MM AWW WS (Left) An Aubusson rug with a mauve field starred thickly in white was the beginning of the collection. A pair of crystal vases engraved with starsare onthe man- tel in the same room WW QQ S B.S SS N S SQ QQ] Wy ° WL WG WMO OOO

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C P. ne lo A ot ve bl cr dr on di let pr la "1 in VOGUE MARTHE COLLOT HAT IMPORTED BY MARTHA NORDEN JEWELLERY FROM DREICER Steichen ddd Z Wddddljyyyy Vdd 94 CLOSE-FITTING HATS KEEP THE SMART HEAD SMALL

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October 15, 1925 OPPOSITE PAGE Perhaps, the most important note in winter millinery is the loyalty to the close-fitting hat. A pin of real diamonds is an- other striking feature. In this very attractive model, shiny black satin ribbon is used, crossed and _ recrossed and draped to form a slight puff on the side. The pin is of diamonds and onyx. The brace- lets on the left arm, all of precious stones are particu- larly notable, since jewellery might almost be called the most important detail of a costume at the moment Wills ee ccccccccccdcdcdceeg Steichen =. The newest Reboux trimming is a feather flower ornament placed low at the side of one of the close-fitting hats that Reboux makes with such unwavering success. Here, the hat is of black velvet with a very soft and pliable brim, turned down on the right side, and the feather flower is in yellow and green WOAAAA QQ WW "°EU»E»™€ ll ")"h".. REBOUX HATS IMPORTED by BONWIT TELLER (Left) The small hat of tomato- red velours (a smart winter colour and a smart millinery fabric) has the soft, square crown that is a strong note at Reboux’s. The hat is trimmed with a band and bow of velvet in the same shade, for velvet, as a trimming, is extreme- ly important in the mode bee:

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96 VOGUE Ces tit oaia tl LANVIN AND DCUILLET MODELS IMPORTED BY FRANCES CLYNE The Lanvin evening dress in jumper style, shown at the right, is very new and important in the winter anode. It is of silver metal cloth embroidered with crystal beads, and the skirt is scalloped at the bottom. Below is a Daeuil- let gown illustrating the brilliant jewel-like em- broidery that is also sig- nificant this season. The gown ts of black crépe de Chine embroidered with coral and crystal beads in a flower design on the skirt and a necklace-like design on the bodice Uldccdccedddcccdcdddeadeddddddededddeeddeddddeddddddedddddddddddddlllt read. erly bred on h as h may is, a pose. almo then, does A ha with are | been how corre and f Wy WY Th wheth is wel far sit more cares is litt] how s matter iS pos: well in slende: trainec erties ] : ercise THE JUMPER FROCK MADE OF GLEAMING METAL CLOTH to be 3 Steichen NA WW0 (Woe rx:gvdrdrrwrwagnit1W97>EFwn 55S, wy '”?Wotrro [ee ALICE BRADY WEARS THE NEWEST GOWN FOR EVENING, SS QUAY

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VE NG, TH October 15, 1925 DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS OF THESE HABITS WILL BE FOUND ON PAGE 120 om @Seinvk® Fro €cHIE N AXIOM that successful Areenn the world over subscribe to is the one that reads—a good horse merits a prop- erly turned-out rider. A thorough- bred is worthy of carrying some one on his back who is as well groomed as he is, and, while one’s clothes may not make one the aristocrat that one’s mount is, at least they should be designed for this pur- pose. Of course, if a woman rides sufficiently well, almost anything can be forgiven her, but, even then, there is scarcely a Master of Hounds who does not like to see his Field well turned out. A habit may be old and a bit frayed at the edges, with a well-darned rip here and there. These are honourable scars. But this habit must have been well cut, originally, and the boots, no matter how hard they have been worn, must have been correctly fitted, Once fitted, they will always fit, and fit they must or be cast into outer darkness. SIDE- OR CROSS-SADDLE ? The first and most important question is whether one rides side-saddle or cross-saddle. It is well to be able to ride both ways, as hunting is far simpler on a side-saddle and hacking infinitely more comfortable on a cross-saddle. If a woman cares at all for her appearance on a horse, there is little question of how she will ride. No matter how slender she is or how perfect her figure, no matter if she looks as well in a man’s saddle as it is possible to look, she will look just twice that well in a side-saddle. This is an age peopled with slender, athletic girls and women who are like trained oarsmen and can stand a hard day’s ex- ercise as well as a man. They feel it a disgrace to be fat, and, since it is so vital a matter, they (Left) Side-saddle habit with tweed coat and whipcord skirt and breeches; from Wetherall. (Middle) Young girl’s Busvine whipcord habit; imported by Franklin Simon. (Right) Cross-saddle Busvine habit contrasting overplaid; from Franklin Simon Flattering to Feminine Form, Masculine Detail Characterizes the Smartest Costumes should consider it doubly a crime to allow them- selves to be overweight if they ride. For no tailor living can make a woman look well on a horse if she is too heavy. Very few girls or women have legs that look well in breeches. Their legs are nearly always slightly knock-kneed, and the bones of the knees are too well covered. Breeches can not look right on knees that have the slightest suspicion of softness under the cloth and leather, In a short dress or bathing-suit, a woman may be as perfectly sculptured as a Greek Venus, but that has no connection with the way she appears in a riding-habit. The question of fit is all-important in a riding- habit. Aside from vanity, a habit must fit per- fectly for comfort’s sake. One wrinkle can spoil a day’s sport and, all too frequently, does. Con- sider the question of breeches. On both a man’s saddle and a cross-saddle, breeches that are not smooth and flat at the inside of the knee will rub and bruise the wearer in a short time. A good breeches maker obtains his fulness on top of the knee. However, if the length is wrong from knee to waist, they will pull or develop a fold that will be a torment. How they can be made to fit perfectly is an art as mysterious as black magic, but a good tailor can do it. The same breeches will not do for both side- and cross- saddle riding, as the side-saddle breeches are cut without the flare at the sides. It goes without’ saying that breeches of any kind, as well as the IN Though the Side-Saddle Habit Is Most 97 bP ENG other parts of a habit, should be fitted in the saddle. There are many ways in which a coat may be cut for a side-saddle habit. It can be tight fitting, looser at the waist, double breasted and cut away in front, or single breast- ed with one or more buttons, but the skirt remains the same, no matter what cut is adopted for the coat. The skirt should be made to show the left boot several inches above the ankle, and the toe of the right boot should just be covered. This means a fairly short skirt when one is standing, but, as any self-respecting habit-maker will say, a habit is not made to fit when one is afoot, but when one is on horseback. By this same token, one should not judge the coat, either, when one is out of the saddle. It may do queer things in front when one is standing, but if it did not, it would not behave properly when one is mounted. It is, in fact, considered smart to have one’s coat bulge and ripple a bit in front when one is out of the saddle. The famous Busvine coats show a decided forward movement when the wearer is standing. DETAILS OF IMPORTANCE In general, side-saddle coats should just clear or rest a little on the horse’s back, while cross- saddle coats may be about two inches above the horse in the saddle, The sleeves of a riding-habit look at their best when the arm is bent to hold the reins, as they are shortened inside the elbow for both correctness and comfort when riding. Armholes must be small, and an English habit- maker will make them painfully so if he is not watched, so engaged is he in making his coat look as if it were painted on the wearer. Many

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98 VOGUE LEeLLowys women prefer to have their side-saddle coats cut just short of the horse’s back, and this shorter coat is very smart for young and slender women, although the longer coat that rests on the horse’s back gives the figure a more graceful line. As many women will continue to wear the cross-saddle habit as long as they ride, no matter what arguments may be advanced against it, its correct version is a matter of importance. As a woman never wears a silk hat with this habit, it will always seem much more informal than the side-saddle habit. -Cross-saddle breeches should be cut as much like a man’s as possible. They should be made with the seam cut diagonally across the knee, to keep the cloth from stretching, and the lace. or buttons: must be inside the: shin- bones, or they will torture under a well-fitting boot. The coat can not be cut like a man’s, MODELS FROM BUSVINE, LONDON (Above, left) A cross-saddle habit for formal hunting has a black coat with white or lemon doeskin breeches, black varnished boots, and a black bowler hat; imported by Altman. The child’s habit is of beige covert-cloth with jodhpur; imported by Franklin Simon (Next to right) A_ side-saddle habit for formal hunting is of black Oxford melton with a long two-button coat cut away in front. The Hunt colour is added to order; imported by Franklin Simon. (Right) The tweed top-coat has a muskrat lining; imported by Altman because a woman wears hers longer and her waist is too small for the coat to look well when it is cut close to the figure. Almost any cloth, from broadcloth to tweed, can be used for the coat of the cross-saddle habit. The inevitable whipcord will last into the third and fourth generation of other habits, and this is equally good for hunting or hacking. Breeches are smart in a contrasting colour, and one usually wants them of a heavier material than the coat, Pale chamois or white breeches are worn with a melton coat by one of the few well-known: Englishwomen who hunts cross-saddle. Should one not have a number of habits, it is not wise to select the piéce de résistance of too heavy material. The heavy melton habits of England are comfortable in America only in winter. A warm waistcoat and a flannel shirt or ah atireay ac on eee el

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vaist it is rom it of cord n of ting ting vier hite e of unts it is too } of - in t or October 15, 1925 a thin woollen one will make up for the lack of weight in a whipcord or tweed habit for cold days. In warm weather, white piqué waistcoats are smart and comfortable. The linen habit is justly popular, but it must be well laundered and freshly pressed, or it will look untidy, and, what- ever else one looks upon a horse, untidy one must never be! A linen coat and a light-weight whipcord skirt are correct, and homespun is also good, having the double advantage of wearing forever and becoming better looking the more it is attacked by the elements. In America, the smart women riders seem to prefer black, the darkest grey, and pepper-and- salt habits. These are, sometimes, relieved with a brighter waistcoat or, when the rider has earned it, with the Hunt collar, but rarely do they leave the sombre shades when choosing the colours of (Left) A Busvine side-saddle habit of navy-blue melton with an apron skirt and two-button coat is worn with a beige polo-necked sweater and felt hat; imported by Altman. (Right) A tan whipcord habit with a one-button coat is worn with a chocolate coloured bowl- er and calfskin boots; from Wetherall The standing figure wears a Busvine habit that is a radical development in side-saddle costumes. The coat is of Harris tweed in brown-and-beige mix- ture, the apron skirt is of cross-barred woollen. fabric in harmonizing tan, and the breeches beneath are of reddish- brown bedford cord; imported by Altman their fabrics. In England, colours have always been popular. Browns and blues and greens are seen as often as dark grey and black, and some of the Hunts have their own colours, such as the Beaufort, which has a li: Navy-blue has had a tremendous incre2s vularity, both in England and America, «specially among the younger women. A buff or yellow waistcoat looks very well with either a blue or brown habit. In colour, breeches may match the coat and skirt, or they may not. Red-brown breeches are smart with a blue habit, or buff with brown or green. The contrasting breeches and coat of the cross- saddle habit mentioned before in this article have become an accepted combination, but the con- trasting of skirt and coat is a late and. radical development that seems revolutionary to the world (Continued on page 116)

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100 FROCKS EL of Mes My \ Mh Wi I) ) yl \\, \ — m) ve dis I|' Ai Li ON | Hy Ih - | ha | OY yg? The coat-dress is a favourite for autumn street or country wear. This frock may be had in a soft grey or tan mixture tweed over a heavy crépe slip in a contrasting colour. It is fitted at a low waist-line, giving a The type of one-piece dress that is ideal for travel, street, country, or sports wear is made of natural col- oured homespun with a bold pat- tern and has a circular skirt, a short stock collar, and a silverized slight flare below the hips OF MANNISH SUITINGS ARE Men’s suitings are the smartest fabrics for durable and warm frocks for winter sports or street wear. This one-piece frock, copied from Patou, is made of a grey checked pattern tweed. It has but- toned flaps on the skirt and blouse belt buckle and buttons This two-piece frock in a distinc- tive new guise is made of a hard- finished, cocoa coloured, ribbed fabric, a copy of a Patou model. Its only trimming is a small tuck which outlines the hip band and front panels of the buttoned blouse The frocks shown on this page are from Bonwit Teller, New York City. They are priced from $55 to $125. Readers unable to purchase these or similar models in loeal shops may communicate with the shop mentioned SEEN IN THE SHOPS LE.

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; October 15, 1925 101 WeF errr yy TTL WE. MoRPHy. The Eton collar sweater is an innovation in the sports The jacket of fine washable suéde in a pinkish beige tone, mode, such a sweater as that at the left of fine cashmere next to the right, is imported from England. The skirt 1s wool worn with a natural coloured homespun skirt. The of natural colour Harris tweed. The green suéde jacket costume next to the left is copied from a London model, (right) has the sleeves of the grey knitted fabric of the a tailored jacket of reddish brown kid with a reddish collar and skirt, grey striped in green, to give freer arm brown tweed skirt ; two costumes from Bonwit Teller movement; two costumes from Franklin Simon LEATHER HAS A SPORTING CHANCE IN EVERY FASHION MEET

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102 VOGUE 2 VOGUE DESIGNS Jor PRACTICAL | DRESSMAKING [| ee S ALWAYS, the silhouette’s the thing. But the farther the accepted silhouette departs > from that ancient goal, the straight line, the more ql and the smarter are its permissible variations. Women, once again, possess figures. The mode j H takes cognizance of them, creates for them, dis- plays them to their best advantage. As there are a hundred figures, so there are a hundred tricks 5 of cut and arrangement to replace the uniformed simplicity of just a year ago. So, too, there is a new and increased variety in fabrics and combinations of fabrics—and an almost unparalleled choice in smart colours. Take into account the permutations, combinations, and distributions of these three chameleon-minded factors, and every woman, even the one with a slender pocketbook, may find her most flattering setting, this year—that is, if she keeps Vogue at her elbow. For success, of course, consists in choosing among the lines, colours, tricks, and de- tails just those that go far enough towards orig- inality and personalization, the while they con- tinue to conform to the canons of the mode at large. These canons may be summed up in four words—fluidity, brevity, brilliance, and youth. Coats, one guesses, are scheduled to be more important than ever, because the ensemble con- tinues to rule the road, and the coat dominates the ensemble. Vogue gives you six new coats in this little portfolio—a coat that shows the straight line, broken by released pleats at side and centre- back; a coat with its straight line modified by a neck-to-hem jabot; a coat with a divided back, suggesting the short jacket; a coat flared at each side of the back; one flared at each side of both front and back; and one with a narrow stole-like collar made of fur. All six have things to say concerning the new interest in fur—which has never been greater. That the vogue for brilliance and femininity may modify, but can not down the tailored dress, is proved several times here—with pleats, and flares, and fur, and new collars. The princesse frock comes in for a page of its own, which is certainly its due, considering what Paris has been saying about it. There are two diametrically different evening dresses, of which the one with . the moulded silhouette is the sort of thing that every woman wants in velvet. Of the two evening coats, one gives opportunity to combine velvet with the enormously popular metal brocade, while the other may be lined with lamé to lend bril- liance to its more conventional lines. In the same portfolio, one comes upon five of ae 9 co An Nae Rann ce apg PRC: MRR te dedaegiel” A emgnteker se Sei ea RWIS rei tam ‘ i sipidigitteesdl those children’s models that make the most blasé¢ of Vogue’s artists smile as they play paper-dolls 4 | with them when they make up the pages. Notice ¥ | how the details of these models have been taken * from the grownup mode. » i Misses’ Coat No. 8305 (Left) A cape-back with a centre in- verted pleat is an unusual feature of a slim afternoon coat having a wrap- over front and smart set-in sleeves slashed at the wrists. This design is attractive when made of velours and trimmed with fur, Sizes, 16 to 20 years Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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G But rts ore ns. ode dis- are cks ned yin an ake and ded ha ring 2 at ; in de- rig- ons t at four uth. iore on- ates s in ight tre- ya ack, ‘ach 0th -like say has nity ress, and esse h is peen cally with that ning alvet rhile bril- re of nlasé dolls otice aken Png, * wo Perot agen wes el ag og Pa tute Deiaee aya Sigs EGRESS ek ae Si arg Raha alte eaeine yy! — Eee rE ee PACES AE seat Sarge October 15, 1925 A SIDE FLARE HAS A NEW WAY OF SAYING GRACE Misses’ Coat No. 8307 There is a new treatment of the fulness in this coat with a straight front and back and a flare extension at the sides. The closing is slightly at one side. The sleeves are set in and fur trim- med to match the straight, high collar. Sizes, 16 to 20 years on saci asc Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois, Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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104 VOGUE Frock No. 8290 A two-piece frock of crépe de Chine has a smart blouse arrangement. It is buttoned through a lap at the neck in back, and the becoming scarf collar is drawn through a slash. Sizes, 34 to 42 Frock No. 8292 Frock No. 8291 An inverted pleat at each side of An inserted front section with in- a street frock of kasha lends free- verted pleats on this frock of jer- sey is the only break in the plain dom without breaking the straight silhouette. There is a_ separate lines topped by the new, small, turn-over collar; long or short gilet under the convertible collar; long or short sleeves. Sizes, 34 to +40 ~ set-in sleeves. Sizes, 34 to 44 THE PLEAT IS THE COMMON FACTOR IN SMARTNESS 09) CO fa sae eo S fm Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern, 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock VO

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we (op) ws, THE CHIC LINE OF THE EPAU- LET SHOULDER Frock No. 8229 This graceful one-piece frock of rep has several points of interest for the smart woman—the new epaulet shoulder cut in one piece with the sleeve, a shaped circular gore tn- serted at each side, the flat back, and fulness at the shoulders in front. The sleeves may be long or short. Sizes, 34 to 44 Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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) VVW W/IN Evening Frock No. 8223 This slim evening frock of semi-sheer crépe begins with a two-tiered skirt joined to a slip, over which goes a one-piece tunic with pointed lower edge and shoulder-straps cut in one piece with the frock. Sizes, 34 to 44 EVENING FROCKS MAY BE Evening Frock No. 8222 The silhouette with circular flare and a slight fulness at the sides of the low waist-line is smart for evening. This one-piece crépe satin evening frock is an excellent example of smart- ness in simplicity. Sizes, 34 to 44 VOGUE SIMPLE—AND SOPHISTICATED Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock TESTE yoGi NI

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TUE yOGUE Evening Wrap No. 8246 Evening Wrap No. 8245 A godet at each side gives the flared silhouette This wrap of metallic brocade and velvet has a to this reversible evening wrap of velvet, which circular lower section joined to the upper sec- is made with long kimono sleeves and a be- tion at a low waist-line, long kimono sleeves, coming roll collar cut in one piece with the tucked at the wrists, and a double collar with front band. Sizes, 34 to 46 shaped lapels. Sizes, 34 to 42 NEW DETAILS ADD DISTINCTION TO EVENING WRAPS Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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VOGU; Ay Py 442 Ads AP ae ao a? FS o $e ee ‘ ; * ta Frock No. 8230 In this one-piece velvet street frock, the lower front section joins the upper section in pointed out- line, with inverted pleats below at side front and side back. It may have either a surplice or a V neck closing. Sizes, 34 to 42 Frock No. 8231 Frock No. 8232 This one-piece street frock of The skirt of this one-piece street light-weight wool in two weaves frock of wool crépe joins the has a straight back, flare sides, upper section in the new upward and inserted front with notched line, with inverted pleats at front, collar. It is cut with darts on the sides, and back. It has a double shoulders and long set-in sleeves. turn-over collar and raglan sleeves. Sizes, 34 to 42 Sizes, 34 to 46 STREET FROCKS SHOW DIFFERENT TYPES OF FULNESS Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock t ; ‘Se dt BA sp NO NAR em, 2p

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7OGU} bol op) October 15, 1925 109 Coat No. 8304 A becoming model, for either a slender or a stout woman, is this coat of velours with side-front and side- back seams that give long, slender lines. The set-in sleeves have a slight flare, and the front overlaps. There is a straight collar and cuffs of fur. Sizes, 34 to 46 A SUBTLE FLARE OR A LONG GRACEFUL JABOT CREATE SLENDER LINES Coat No. 8303 A jabot joined to the right front of a slender coat and extending from the high collar to the hem in a flare movement is the distinguishing note on an otherwise straight coat. The new novelty woollens are partic- ularly suitable for the making of this design. Sizes, 34 to 42 Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, ‘postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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110 VOGUE

Siig ee etait oiacae

——<— yess .

Lf Misses’ Coat No. 8306 THE PLEAT AND THE FLARE Coat No. 8302 Two of the smartest of new fashion An inverted pleat at each side and points are used in the design of this one in the centre back below the afternoon coat—the flare sides and applied trimming bands are the in- the shawl collar. The set-in sleeves ARE sa 6 4, SS IN teresting features of this coat. One have cuffs of fur. Grey kasha duve- may choose from two styles of collar tine is a smart fabric for this coat and two styles of cuffs. It is of trimmed with a fur to match. Sizes, novelty woollen trimmed with fur. CHIC ON WINTER COATS Sizes, 34 to 44 16 to 20 years

Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock % Sh eed as ctobe

and pror and appe toms fine delic child to be Lull

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ctober 15, 1925 sal T" , your children should eat lomato Soup ! Red-ripe, luscious tomatoes abound in fruit juices and the “growth vitamins’ which are so beneficial in promoting the healthy, sound development of children. Good tomato soup acts also as a wholesome stimulant and ‘“‘conditioner’ of the digestion. It renews the appetite and helps to keep it strong and vigorous. Campbell’s Tomato Soup contains only the pure tomato juices and luscious tomato “‘meat’’ strained to a fine puree, blended with fresh country butter, and deliciously seasoned. Often indicated by physicians even for very young children because its quality is always uniform, always to be trusted, always tempting and healthful. according to the simple directions on the label Extra nourishing prepared as a Cream of Tomato = YO t ‘ (\ Fay CAMPBELL SOUP ‘ AMDEN, NJ. USA. 21 kinds 12 cents a can LOOK FOR TrlS ReD-ANOAW rll TS LASS

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112 VOGUE ( Frock No. 2489 GODETS AND GATHERS (Right) The very youngest little girl wears a georgette crépe frock like this one guiltless of trim- ming and smart in its daintiness and simplicity. This design has no underarm seams. Under the epaulet shoulders on front and back are shirrings. Sizes, 1 to 6 vears ARE THE NEW NOTES IN THE JUNIOR MODE Suit No. 2514 A little boy’s play suit made of poplin hangs beltless from the epaulet shoulders, where there is a slight fulness. There is a centre- back closing and a drop seat. Sizes, 2 and 4 years Frock No. 2510 An afternoon dress of crépe de Chine for the schoolgirl has lines favoured in the grownup mode, with a godet inserted at each side and shirrings at the shoulders. Sizes, 10 to 14 years N N NN NS NY N & Frock No. 2507 (Right) A smart version of the youthful one-piece dress,which the two sisters are wearing, may be attractively madeinvelveteen. The frock has inserted godets in front. There is a graceful fulness at the 3 back; long or short set-in-sleeves. » 2 KA ) Sizes, 8 to 14 years Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 14 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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October 15, 1925 EZ, lisliteidbdaaasdldrabiivdiitiriidteadttie: Mdiddillde ld Roadste t Coupe - OUL

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TITEL, YEEEL, XX; VEPEL, VEPEL, PPPEX, VPPIX. ¥PFIL YELLE. YPPIX om An odeur that untvigues... and lingers long in memory! “Music and pavfum—these two, pevhaps move than any- thing else, inspive dreams and. recall memovies. The haunting theme of some glovious melody! The bewitching fragrance of some wonderful pavfum! Flimsy foundations for aiv castles? Mais Oui! But does an air castle need foundation! Such a parfum is this newest creation of the French Parfameur’s art— Contaimel lamas Royal Parfum and Requisites But recently introduced to the exclusive clientele of the Maison Mendessolle shop in San Francisco —and now available in a few smart shops throughout America —Fontainebleau Royal Parfum | Fontainebleau Royal Larlaiv IN and Requisites can be obtained divect from Maison Mendessolle if desived. We shall be glad to and Requisites have found instant favor with womenwho weve seeking a new individuality in that most subtly important aid to a woman's charm—the parfum. => Fontainebleau send youan attractive brochure Fontainebleau Royal of Fontainebleau Royal oyal Parfum, Purse size 2 ounce, $11.50 Partam, $2.50 products. Fontainebleau Fontainebleau Royal Fontainebleau oya Gold Gream Soap, Roya Toilet Water, x of three, Bath Salts, $7.50 $2.25 $3.00 Nikwen Menclessol . 980 Post Street: San Francisco | (aaaaaa ok (ZzaaiZza C Wega [zZidza VOGUE TeEARLQULAR__Y/ f oe j j “Ma Mie bottle. Annette” is a haunting perfume in an A novel feature of the con- new and octagonal tainer is its cup-shaped top, which is delicately etched 5 ‘ ON HER FTER the inventory of facial affairs that every wise Woman takes before the beginning of the win- ter season, she too often finds that her skin has become just a bit dry, and lined, and not quite as fair as it should be. It is then that she loses no time in going to a certain salon in New York for a certain famous treatment that is as pleasantly restful as it is efficacious. A SPECIAL MASQUE TREATMENT This is a masque, using an egg-and- oil preparation, which is, of course, very nourishing to the tissues. First, the skin is thoroughly cleansed, then stimulated by being patted with a tonic. A soothing cream is applied around the eyes, and the face is anointed with muscle oil. If -any blackheads are present, these are gently removed, and the affected area re- ceives a special cream to close the pores antiseptically. After this, the whole face is expertly massaged with a nourishing cream, and then the egg- and-oil masque is applied. This prep- aration is always mede fresh for the treatment and is, therefore, not avail- able separately. There is, however, an excellent anti-wrinkle cream that is very nourishing and adapted for the home treatment. The prices are $2 and $3.50 a jar. In the salon treatment, the masque is allowed to dry on the face and is afterward removed with skin stimu- lant. When the last touches of make- up have been skilfully applied, not only the face, but the whole body feels wonderfully refreshed. FOR THE HANDS AND FEET A new product from the laboratories of a well-known specialist is a very useful greaseless cream. It is made for hands that are chapped or irri- tated from dust or exposure of any kind. This cream is also excellent for the feet, keeping them smooth and free from callouses and preventing or relieving fatigue. A medium-sized jar costs 50 cents, and a larger, half- pound size, $1.75. A DOUBLE ROUGE COMPACT For the woman who uses rouge and wishes to have it at hand both in powder and in paste form, there is an DRESSING-TABLE answer in a tiny gun-metal vanity case. This is equipped with a mirror and contains dry rouge in medium, rose, or bright shades on one side, and, on the other, dark or cherry cream rouge. The cheeks and the lips are thus served at one time. The price of this useful case is only $1. FOR THE FIVE-MINUTE MANICURE There is always a place just waiting for the right manicure set, not elabo- rate, but small, compact, and moder- ately priced. One that can be tucked in the overnight bag and that con- tains the various little articles neces- sary to the daily care of the nails has recently been offered by a well-known maker. The box itself, in painted tin, measures scarcely more than three by four inches, and yet it ho!ds a genereus bottle of cuticle remover, a box of powder polish with sifter top, a bottle of rosy liquid polish (which, freshly applied and then wiped off, acts also as polish remover), a tiny orange-wood stick, a package of emery boards, and a roll of absorbent cotton. All of these articles are easily rep!ace- able, and the box itself is sturdily made, It is neatly planned for just that five minutes of attention which is needed to keep the nails in orde! between the weekly manicures. This box may be had at a small price. A BEAUTIFYING SHAMPOO If the hair is shampooed at home, it is important that the most efficient means be used. A modern method not merely cleanses the scalp, but actually beautifies the hair, making it soft and lustrous. The preparation used is a liquid in which have been combined the beneficial oils of the co- coanut and the olive in the correc! proportions. ‘This shampoo dees not contain any free alKali and can_ not! affect the natural colour of the hair. It is easy to use and has such decided antiseptic and tonic properties that it tends to eliminate dandruff or other scalp disorders. The price is 50 cents a_ bottle. Upon receipt of a stamped, address« envelope, Vogue Information Servic: 19 West Forty-Fourth Street, Nev York City, will be glad to furnish tic addresses of the shops mentioned. © M0 Ocleé asi fr “Tue F pink of strain of of welfar Pond’s 7 of womei prairies” excellent are made all climai “ “24 AU M Id Senators Mary Mc‘ the first fi The yo private se golden-ha’ own ponie fearlessly were marr: this youn; came the Washingto = Mrs. Bo cess. Her girlish fresh at once a fa sponded un and social ¢ great Gove ton. She v: their letters Magazines ¢ Mrs. Bor in a woman her appeara not long ag ent I aske the best wa ood cream, ng and kee nother for I

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ting abo- der- cked con- “CceS- has iown nted hree Is a ra top, hich, off, tiny mery tton. lace- rdily just hich orde! This ome, cient ‘thod but ng il ation bee e CO- rec! ; not 1 nol hair. cided lat il other cents SSCA rvic’, New h the P October 15, 1925 jh Va My Wilbam G Borah believes in this CAVE for her shin The wife of the distinguished Senator jrom Idaho speaks from a unique experience “Tue Pond’s method keeps the skin in the pink of condition, rejuvenating it from the strain of official entertaining and the fatigue of welfare work. Fust as surely, too, do Pond’s Two Creams protect the complexions of women who ride the sage-brush-covered prairies of our great West. For these two excellent Creams, in which I firmly believe, are made to serve women of all pursuits, in all climates, everywhere.” Vise MO. Creel dork [) wc of the late William J. McConnell, former Governor of Idaho, and wife of one of its present Senators to the United States Congress, Mary McConnell Borah was destined from the first for public life. The young man who was her father’s private secretary fell in love with this golden-haired slip of a girl who rode her own ponies over the sage-brush plains so fearlessly and well. Not long after they were married the Senatorial toga fell upon this young man’s shoulders. And then came the test of formal officialdom at » Washington! Mrs. Borah met it with complete suc- cess. Her dignity, her graciousness, the girlish freshnessof herappearance made her at once a favorite. Ever since, she has re- sponded unceasingly to thecountless official and social demands of Washington life. N° woman is busier, yet Mrs. Borah finds time to work for sick Veterans of the World War cared for in three great Government hospitals in Washing- ton. She visits them every week, writes their letters home, takes them cigarettes, magazines and, always, cheer! _ Mrs. Borah believes in a rounded life, in a woman’s looking after the details of her appearance. During a visit with her not long ago in her Washington apart- ent | asked her what she believed to be the best way of caring for the skin. “A good cream,” she answered, “for cleans- ng and keeping it firm and fine. And nother for protecting it.” Then she told 115 me how the women who live on the great western plains of our country must pro- tect their skin as they ride or drive over the prairies. “The alkaline dust of the desert ruins their complexions unless they guard them carefully. This is just where Pond’s Creams are such a help. They keep the skin from becoming parched and lifeless in this dry atmosphere.” — of important place and social prominence everywhere are pursuing this same balanced care for their skin in which Mrs. Borah so firmly believes. They are de- pending upon Pond’s Two delicate Creams which you should daily use as follows: Every single day cleanse your skin with Pond’s Cold Cream. Always at night, and always, too, on returning from an outing, with your finger tips pat it over the skin of your face, throat, arms, hands—its delicious fragrant touch will please you. Let it stay on long enough for its pure oils to seep down into the pores and bring to the surface every trace of the dust and dirt which clog them. Wipe off all the cream and dirt and repeat the process, finishing with a dash of cold water or a rub with a bit of ice. Over your newly cleansed skin, before you pow- der, smooth Pond’s Vanishing Cream. Light as thistle-down, soft and fluffy, you won’t wonder that it makes your skin look lovely, gives it a positively damask smoothness, and that over it your powder goes on beautifully and stays smoothly and ever so long. Moreover, this thin veil of Vanishing Cream acts as a protection, guarding your skin against drying, chapping and burning from sun, cold and wind. So if you want to follow this method, to secure the best results always use Pond’s Vanishing Cream before going out. \ X YHEN you buy Pond’s Creams, ask for the big generous jar of the Cold Cream. The Vanishing Cream comes in smaller jars since you do not use it up as rapidly. v a v Among other women of distinguished position who have expressed enthusiasm for the Pond’s Method are Her Majesty, Marie, Queen of Roumania Mrs. Reginald Vanderbilt Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont Mrs. WivuraM E. Boran, wife of the Senator from Idaho who is Chairman-elect of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee of the next Congress, is a prominent leader in Washington Society EVERY SKIN NEEDS THESE TWO CREAMS The Vicomtesse de Frise The Duchesse de Richelieu Mrs. Marshall Field, Sr. The Princesse Matchabelli The Lady Diana Manners Mrs. Gloria Gould Bishop Mrs. Livingston Fairbank The Princesse Marie de Bourbon FREE OFFER — Mail this coupon for free tubes of these Two Creams and an attractive folder telling how to use them. The Pond’s Extract Company, Dept. K, 137 Hudson Street, New York City Please send me your free tubes, one each of Pond’s Cold and Vanishing Creams.

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COUSINS Letty Because Cousins Shoes are Designed to Idealize the Lines of the Foot HERE’S an unmistakable difference in the appearance of your foot when wearing a Cousins shoe! Your foot actu- ally looks smaller and more graceful. It is very easy for a shoe, that might be ; otherwise pretty-looking, to spoil the pic-

foot

ture on the foot. It may give a suggestion

of too broad an instep, too “‘straight’’ an arch, or too long a foot. Cousins shoes, the product of 76 years experience in making women’s fine shoes, carry out many subtle points in the de- signing that create the right lines on your foot, making it appear as dainty and grace- ful as it should.

Every need in milady’s footwear, from Rivana the daintiest evening slipper to the sportiest MODEASE riding boot is supplied by Cousins. Prices The Comfortable Shoe $12.50 upwards. that is also Stylish

“<The Place of the Shoe in the Costume’’ a of suggestions as to the shoe for the occasion may be had at £1. the shops carrying Cousins shoes. Nearly every leading city has a Cousins merchant. who can show you the new models for fall and winter. If you should not know the nearest Cousins merchant, write us for his name and for the folder,‘“The Place of the Shoe in the Costume.” SET Cousins +

VOGUE RI Din @ ets. OD Tt Mes 8B (Continued from page 99) of conservative riders. There is, however, an undeniable smartness in such a combination as that shown in the coat of Harris tweed and the skirt of cross- barred woollen illustrated on the stand- ing figure on page 91. Such a habit is, of course, only for informal wear, WHAT BOOTS IT? Boots are always important to the rider and to the costume. However one rides, the boots should be cut like a man’s, with a low heel and fairly square toe, and one must be prepared to suffer when one gets in and out of them, if they are to look well when they are on, fitting tightly at the calf and giving shape to the ankles. A per- fectly straight back line, a concave front line, and the very highest possible spur line are the qualifications of a smart. boot, such lines as are shown in the dots illustrated on this page. Black boots, are, of course, used for formal wear. If one.can induce a servant in this country to use a bone for polish- ing the calfskin; it can be made as bright as patent leather. For ‘“school- ing” or “larking,” the brown field boot with laced instep is appropriate. This type of boot should have a heavier sole than the unlaced boot. There has been, lately, a vogue for very soft leather in boots, but no conscientious bootmaker who wants to hold his*client will make a boot that is not sufficiently heavy to hold the correct lines that have been described. Medium-weight leather that is softened at the ankle to give a two- fold drape is the best choice. If one does not wish to purchase expensive boots, gaiters may be worn over heavy brown walking shoes, Linen gaiters are very smart and can be made to order at little cost compared to the cost of boots. For children who grow out of their boots before they are made, jodhpur breeches are an excellent sub- stitute. ° Any touch of femininity should be avoided in shirts and waistcoats. These should always have the appearance of coming from a man’s haberdasher and tailor. For the perfect example of how not to dress for riding, one has only to note many of the feminine figures in Central Park, with low, V-necked blouses and bow ties, or the mounted heroines of the “movies.” A _ white shirt is most correct with a stock, al- though the shirt can scarcely be seen, and, for informal wear, a white or col- oured polo shirt with a soft collar that matches is preferred. Any four-in-hand ACCESSORIES IMPORTED BY ALTMAN (Right) Correct rid- ing-boots have straight back, concave front, low heel, medium round toe, and high spur line; from Bunting. (Below) Tan calfskin field boot; from Max- well (Right) Malacca braided leather crop; bone-handled malacca hunting whip ; (below) bamboo crop with leather tip (shown next to leggings) ; from Swaine and Adeney

tie that accompanies one’s habit smartly is correct, but it must be tied snuzly, not in a loose, careless manner, ‘\he gentleman’s small bow tie is also used. As to hats to accompany the habit when a silk hat or bowler is not worn. the soft felt hat in dark brown or ¢rey is comfortable and smart, or a min’s small panama for summer. The hat should bear no trace of being femii ine headgear, except that it may be of softer felt than that for a man, ‘fhe white woollen English string glov.: js the best glove for cold weather, «nd when the danger of numb fingers | ess. ens, hand-stitched, buttonless, h:ayy chamois gloves are most suitable. 4 new slip-on glove of doeskin has r-iy- forcements of crocheted yarn that pre- vent the reins from slipping throug) the hands, as they do when leather be- comes moist. These gloves are illus. trated on this page. Should one want, top-coat for motoring to the mect or to one’s horse, a polo coat, a fur-lined tweed coat, or one of some heavy fur is correct. In any case, the coat must be of the conventional masculine vari. ety, and, the more English it appears the smarter it is. A rain-coat is also essential for hunting or hacking in bad weather. This, also, should be a man’s coat. When a muffler is worn, it should be tucked inside the coat to prevent it from blowing. MODES AND MAKEUP IN RIDING It is in very bad taste, indeed, for « woman to look ‘made up” when she is on horseback. If she powders her nos or uses a lipstick, it should be done » sparingly as not to be noticeable, Also, the hair should be pulled from th face, whether it is becoming or not, and a net worn to keep it trim. Bobbed hair looks badly beneath the conver- tional woman’s bowler hat, and th: smartest women use a switch to which to fasten their hats or adopt a frankly masculine hat. The narrow-brimmed hat with a decided side roll is dis. tinctly the smartest model at present The jewellery accessories that are per- missible with a riding-habit are ex- ceedingly simple. A wrist-watch on: leather strap, a gold crop or stirrup pit to hold the tie, and the convention pin and cuff-links of crystal with thi head of a fox or some equally appro: priate animal in the centre are all thi one needs. And any of these make lightful gifts from a gentleman to) lady who favours the art of riding, (Continued on page 120)

(Left) White or nat- ural doeskin pull-on gloves for formal wear. Doeskin gloves with crocheted string rein- forcements to prevent reins from slipping; from Swaine und Adeney (Left) Strap canvas leggings are correct for informal summer «ear. (Bottom, right) Knit- ted string gloves in white or chamois are much used; from Swaine and Adeiey Wher which on thi If the( to its f of yea produ an ult If the be sec were Cc five pe

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it smartly d snugly, ner. ‘ihe also used, the habit not worn, mor grey > a min’s The hat - femi) ine ay be of aan, ‘The x glove is ther, «nd gers Jess. ss, heavy itable. A has rein- that pre- y through eather be- are illus. me winta e mect o . fur-lined heavy fur coat must wline vari. it appears at is also ing in bad e a man’s , it should prevent it RIDING leed, fora hen she is s her nos ye done si ible, Also, from the g Or not, n. Bobbed e conver- and the 1 to which a frankly y-brimmed oll is dis it present it are per- it are eX ‘atch on 2 stirrup pil nvention | with thei lly appro- i ire all tha! » make de- leman to 1 riding, 20) or nat- pull-on 1al wear. es with ng rcin- pre: ent lip ping; ne und y canvas rect for ner wear. t) Kuit- loves i nois are ; from A deney siejem You Made These Lower Cadillac Prices When all is said and done it is the public which has made possible these lower prices on the new 90-degree Cadillac. If the Cadillacmarket had not grown steadily to its present large proportions over a period of years, it would be utterly impossible to produce and sell at the present prices such an ultra-fine car as the new Cadillac. If the number of Cadillac buyers who can be securely counted upon year after year were curtailed by even so much as twenty- five per cent—the first cost of the Cadillac must of necessity be very much higher. The whole world concedes Cadillac’s capac- ity to build cars beyond compare—and Cadillac says of this new car:— “With all the wonderful facilities of Cadillac and General Motors at our com- mand, this is the very best car we can now build—but thanks to you good people who buy Cadillacs year after year, we have been able to bring the prices to a point where there is nothing in the world to compare with the new Cadillac, either in first cost or in after economy.” General Motors Export Company, New York : Cadillac Motor Car Company of Canada, Lid., Oshawa, Ontario Standard Line Five-Passenger Brougham, $2995; Two - Passenger Coupe, $3045; Four- Passenger Victoria, $3095; Five-Pas- senger Sedan, $3195; Seven-Passeager Sedan, $3295; Seven- Passenger Im- perial, $3435. Custom Line Roadster, $3250; Touring Car, $3250; Phaeton,$3250;Five-Passenger Coupe, $4000; Five-Passenger Sedan, $4150; Seven-Passenger Suburban, $4285; Seven-Passenger Imperial, $4485. All prices quoted F. O. B. Detroit. Tax to be added. The privilege of deferred payment, over a twelve months’ period, is gladiy given on any Cadillac car.

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PAINTING BY PHILIPPE MALIAVINE LAMOROUS NIGHT. Swaying figures weaving exotic patterns to the cadence of strange music. Snatches of song. Laughter—gay, primitive. And in the sur- rounding dusk of soft lights, semi-tones of feminine loveliness, the shimmer of silks. Contrast. Our own world with its gay freedom—daring provocative, sophisticated, with a beauty all its own; yet singing with love of primitive color, exotic harmonies, rich contrasts. Reflecting, in their richness and inspired colors, the very essence of modern loveliness, Cheney Silks have their part in the picture of today. CHENEY BROTHERS Madison Avenue and 34th Street, New York

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AR ei tanea es. EGE TR ages HOSIERY for MEN, WOMEN, CHILDREN, INFANTS Silk Vests and Bloomers for Women co. Combination All-in-One Silk Vests and Step-Ins for Women Form-Fitting Knitted Union Suits for Men, Women, Children co Loose-Fit ting Woven Union Suits for Men, Women, Children Infants’ Vests, Tab Bands and Binders and Double Breasted Wrappers. Correct undergarments and hosiery for every member of the family Munsingwear quality and workmanship assure comfort and service coo Sold only through Retail Merchants

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Radio [f its in the air Fada gets it ADA has set a standard of reception by which, more and mote, all radio performance is being judged. Learnwhat this standard offers you—by acomplete demon- stration in your own home, without obligation to buy. The joy of pure, bell-like tone and full volume—the thrill of real distance—the ability to tune in with pre- cision the stations you want as easily as you tune out those you don’t want. And Fada Service that guarantees permanent performance! Call up your dealer now and arrange for a demonstration tonight. You'll discover an entire new level of radio en- joyment. Most Fada dealers will be glad to arrange convenient terms of payment. Send for book F, ‘‘Fada Radio—Standard of Reception’’. F. A. D. ANDREA, INC. CHICAGO NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO FADA RADIO, LTD.—TORONTO FADA RADIO, LTD.—LONDON Manufacturers of TUNED RADIO FREQUENCY receivers using the highly efficient NEUTRODYNE principle There is a Fada Radio model for every ppt pa 5-tube Neutrodyne sets for cell or storage battery tubes, from $85 to Are Cabinet models up to $400. & ee is the Neutrola-Grand at j SANA Octo ee The shi S10 lof WAMSUT' RIDLEY W

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Qctober 15, 1925 WAMSUTTA PERCALE Quality Tests The Test of Texture. Wamsutta Percale is the finest woven, smoothest textured sheeting on the market because made of carefully selected, long staple cotton. The Test of Lightness. A Wamsutta Percale sheet 90 x 108 weighs about a half a pound less than the ordinary sheet. A real saving in laundry bills! The Test of Durability. The Millard laundry test proved Wamsutta Percale stronger than 24 leading brands of sheeting when given a test equivalent to six years’ wear in the home. The Test of the Making. Wamsutta Percale sheets and pillow cases are finished with a care worthy of so fine a fabric. A special woven-in tape selvedge prevents the edges from tearing or becoming “ragged.” The Test of Fashion. Every correct fashion for sheets and pillow cases is given effective expres- sion in Wamsutta Percale—hemstitching, scal- lops or exquisite hand embroidery. WAMSUTTA MILLS, New Bedford, Mass. Founded 1846. RIDLEY WATTS & CO., Selling Agents, 44 Leonard Street, N. Y. ae very important information is never included in the wedding invitation. How many anxious wonderings and vain regrets could be saved the guests, as well as the bride, if a little note like this could be attached to the invitation: DEAR FRIEND: The gift that would please me most would be a lovely set of Wamsutta Percale sheets and pillow cases. I specify Wamsutta because that is ex- actly the quality and texture that I want. for my new home. ed Yours in strictest confidence, THE BRIDE. What a joy it would be to buy your gift for that wedding, secure in the knowledge that you were selecting the very thing that the bride wanted. NOT IN THE WEDDING INVITATION But, unluckily, in real life we have to worry along without such sen- sible direct guidance in the selec- tion of our gifts. However, we suggest that you look carefully at the next invitation you receive. If you are clever enough you may be able to read between the lines, and there you may see imprinted faintly but indelibly, like the soundless refrain of a young bride’s wish — Wamsutta Percale. If so, it will serve as a gentle reminder that Wamsutta Percale Sheets and Pillow Cases always make a most attractive and most usable gift for a bride. Your store will gladly show you the different styles of Wamsutta Percale sheets and pillow cases most suitable for a wedding gift. SHEETS & PILLOW CASES C The finest of cottons PERCALE WAMSUTTA MILLS NEW BEDFORD MASS c Always look for the green and ‘gold

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HE Harper treatment of the hair and scalp be- gins at the brow and temples and ends below the shoulders, half way down the spine. Health and beauty of the hair are more than local matters. They depend essentially on circulation, relax- ation and blood flow. Hence the long-distance Harper methods. In both shampoo and treatment, spine, shoulders and neck are invigorated and stimulated by scientific mas- sage so that circulation may sweep freely and fully up to feed the scalp. The hair is brushed again and again, until it is polished and burnished, and the head is anointed with both Harper Method tonique and Harper Method ointment, to feed the scalp and reg- ulate the action of the oil sacs. Both shampoo and treatment take a full hour and leave the hair and scalp clean and glowing. They should be used in alternation with each other as your operator advises for your individual needs. The Harper Method preparations can be purchased in con- venient sizes for home use at all Harper Method shops. Consult telephone direftory under ‘Harper Method’’ or write— MARTHA MATILDA HARPER ROCHESTER, N.Y. iy ong ft ‘4 4 VOGUE An aristocratic citizen of old Philadelphia was the subject of this engraving by St. Memin THE ENGRAVINGS OF ST. MEMIN By E. N. VALLANDIGHAM O YOU treasure a St. Memin en- graving of an ancestor or an- cestress who “flourished,” as our for- bears used to say, sometime between 1794 and 1814? If so, you come of a little group of somewhat less than a thousand gentlefolk belonging to that period and dwelling mainly along the coast of the Atlantic from New En- gland to South Carolina. St Memin’s engravings come in between the silhou- ette, named for a French finance min- ister who dared to tax the aristocrats and whose name thus became a con- temptuous term for anything cheap, and the daguerreotype, named for an- other Frenchman and mispronounced pretty generally in five syllables instead of four by some generations of Amer- icans. FORERUNNERS OF PHOTOGRAPHY The silhouette, the St. Memin en- graving, the daguerreotype, each in turn served its purpose, preserving for posterity the features, coiffures, and dress of vanished periods. Of the three, the silhouette was the cheapest and quite within the reach of almost any one with something to spare for simple luxuries. St. Memin engravings were the work of one man, more expensive than the silhouette, but limited, like the shadow picture, to profile effects, though St. Memin managed, by deft re- touching, to add life to the eye, expres- sion to the lips, and stereoscopic qual- ity to the coiffure, cheek, and dress. In- deed, St. Memin’s crayon sketches, which were the basis of his engraved plates, may be called a development of the silhouette. The daguerreotype gave place, after something like twenty years of popularity, to still cheaper forms of photography, though modern enlarge- ments of the daguerreotypes, made in the ‘forties and ‘sixties of the last cen- tury, still have a rare charm, partly, perhaps, because the ancestors of three generations ago or a little less seem to have been a singularly gracious race of women and, often, men of force and distinction. Charles Balthazer Julien Févret de St, Memin, born of an ancient and honour- able feudal family belonging to the minor French nobility, became an en- sign at the age of eighteen, in the army of the hapless King Louis XVI., in 1788. Almost immediately, with the on- coming of that revolution in which Louis lost his head and crown, St. Memin found himself an émigré in ex- ile in Geneva with his father, mother, and sister. Father and son came to New York by way of Canada, and the father died of a fever in Santo Domingo, whither he went, hoping to repossess his wife’s plantations, in 1798 when Toussaint L’Ouverture, the negro genius who called himself the black Napoleon, ruled those parts better than any man of his race has ruled there since. When the St. Memins_ first reached New York, the son put some of their small capitai into land and tried to earn his bread as a market-gardener, This was a strange occupation for the son of a family distinguished for hun- dreds of years in the annals of France, but young St. Memin was a versatile genius. He had painted in monochrome upon ivory during his short service in the royal army and had learned to be an amateur watchmaker. In fact, he was instinctively both artist and mech- anician, with no little inventive gift as each. Naturally enough, he failed at market-gardening, perhaps because his capital would not hold out while he made a place for himself in that busi- ness. Luckily for the St. Memins, father and son, they had a French attraction of their own, so marked, indeed, that a great gentleman of the time, John R. Livingston, invited them to dwell with him at his delightful house, “Mount Pitt,” situated, it is believed, on Co- lumbia Heights, in Brooklyn. Mr. Liv- ingston found his young guest not only a man of grace and charm, but of trained mind and brilliant parts. The youth was so delighted with the broad view of the harbour and the little city from “Mount Pitt” that he sketched the scene with his characteristic accuracy, and Mr. Livingston, in turn, was 9 pleased with the sketch that he urged St. Memin to study engraving from an encyclopedia, so that he could repro- duce the picture and sell it to any one who would buy. Mr. Livingston felt that there was no print of the city equal to what his young friend could make. As a matter of fact, St. Memin made am etching of the sketch, as he did of an- other made from a somewhat differen! point of view, and these are among the best early American etchings. EARLY MINIATURE PORTRAIT: St. Memin made few etchings, bu! he promptly turned to account what he had learned from the encyclopedi about engraving. He began to make miniature portraits from engraved COP per plates, and, doubtless from the social influence of his friend, Livins® ton, fashionable New York seel® to have flocked to his studio. Mot (Continued on page 120) Octo Mac Endo:

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‘GUE MIN 1 Santo oping to in 17% he negro he black tter than ed there ins first > some of ind tried sardener, 1 for the for hun- France, versatile ochrome ervice in ed to be fact, he id mech. tive gift failed at ause his vhile he at busi- s, father ttraction d, thata John R. vell with “Mount on Co- Mr. Liv- not only but of ‘ts. The he broad ittle city ched the iccuracy, was 80 1e urged from an d repro- any one ston felt ity equal ld make. made an d of an- different nong the \IT* ngs, but nt what rclopedia to make ved Cop ron the Living® , seems . More )) october 15, 1925 Madame X Madame Y Madame Z Técla Pearl Necklaces Endorsed by International Society as low as $100 — X wears Técla Pearls, whilst the Oriental Necklace, for which she is famous, reposes in the safe. MADAME Y wears Tecla Pearls and society wonders how she can afford Orientals. MADAME Z wears imitations and society knows nothing about it because no woman who wears imitations is ever in society. Ceda IIS Sith t Slvenue-New IO Rue de 1a Paix.Paris 7 Old Bond St., London 119

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120 . THE WAY TO SAY "REMEMBER ME" PERFUMES CHARM is like a golden flame. . BOUQUET ANTIQUE. the essence that keeps it glowing. It is a perfume that kindles memories—a bres a debentemes element ebelela Cobacae na Pin G . i. & F VOGUE m © § (Continued from page 116) DESCRIPTION OF MODELS On page 89, the side-saddle habit with contrasting coat and skirt illus- trated at the left in the sketch is correct for informal hacking. The coat is of a black-and-white diamond-pattern tweed with grey whipcord skirt and breeches. A light blue soft shirt and striped tie are correct accessories with this costume, which comes from Weth- erall. A cross-saddle habit (at the right) for informal riding reverses thp colour values of its jacket and breeches with a light tan woollen overplaide; in brown for the jacket, and broy, overplaided in tan, for the breeches This costume is from Franklin Sino, The unfortunate young rider who j temporarily afoot wears a Busvine jodh. pur riding-habit of beige whipcord For this type of habit, the coat is jong and three buttons are used. The }iabi; is imported by Franklin Simon. THE ENGRAVINGS OF ST. MEMIN (Continued from page 118) than that, his work was soon in such demand that he travelled from city to city along the Atlantic coast. In New York, he worked from 1796 to 1798; in Philadelphia, from 1798 to 1803; in Baltimore, during 1804, with excur- sions to Washington, Alexandria, Georgetown, and Annapolis, from 1805 to 1807. He was at Richmond, Norfolk, and elsewhere in Virginia in 1808, and at Charleston in 1809. Then, he re- turned to New York, but only for a short time, for he went back to France in 1810. Two years later, he was back in the United States, though now his eyes were too tired for engraving, and he painted landscapes and portraits in oil. He and another artist painted Aaron Burr’s beautiful daughter, Theodosia, the lovely young matron mysteriously lost at sea. St. Memin often visited his mother and sister at Burlington, New Jersey, where they had set up a school. But he tired of the new world and, in 1814, returned to pass the remainder of his long life at his native city of Dijon. It is said that before returning to France, he destroyed the instruments with which he made his miniatures. ENGRAVINGS OF FAMOUS AMERICANS St. Memin’s engravings are not rated high by the critics, but, to the eye of the layman, they have a charm of clear- ness and light, in spite of their undeni- able stiffness in pose. They are pecu- liarly precious, however, for what they preserve to these times of American faces, dress, and coiffure. He had among his sitters the most famous pub- lic men of his time. Among them were Jefferson, William Henry Harrison, as a comparatively youthful soldier, Aaron 3urr and his second in the fatal duel with Hamilton, many members of Con- gress, men and women of local dis- tinction in scores of cities and villages along the Atlantic coast. He made, also, the last portrait of Washington from life. Four copies of this print upon the backs of playing cards have been found, and the plate from which the prints were made. One comes upon St. Memin prints in unexpected places, as also upon rather large miniatures (if the term be ad- missible) painted upon glass and signed “St. M.” At the little village of Princess Anne, far down upon the eastern shore of Maryland, there is a set of St. Memin miniatures belonging to a woman of the Breckenridge connec- tion, together with the copper plates. Curiously enough, at the same villag is a notable collection of beautifu! and interesting articles connected with th, life of Queen Victoria. At Newark Delaware, is a St. Memin miniature of a rarely beautiful young woman. |; Boston, a man of Maryland descent ha; a St. Memin portrait on glass, and ; Marylander, long a resident of Ney York, has another. St. Memin’s method was curious and original. He used and improved upo the physionotrace, invented by a French. man named Crétien in 1786. With this instrument, St. Memin made a strict) accurate profile portrait of his sitter, ; little less than life-size, with crayon, upon pink-tinted paper. This profil he reduced with the familiar panto- graph so that it came within a circ two inches in diameter. With the sitter under close observation, St. Memin, wh was to the utmost degree accurate as 1 draftsman developed in detail costum and coiffure, gave life to the eye, ex- pression to the lips, and detail to the cheek. From the reduced crayon pro- file, he scratched an engraving on cop- per, which he finished with the roul- ette, an instrument that he improved for the purpose. The result was in effect an aquatint, with astonishing de. tail and much liveliness of expressio1 PAST PRICES AND PRESENT ONES St. Memin took about three days to make an engraved plate. He sold to his sitter the crayon portrait and 1 dozen engraved miniatures for thirty- three dollars, probably equivalent to considerably over a hundred dollars to-day. It must be remembered that some of the best American _portrait- painters of that time charged only fifty dollars for a portrait. St. Memin kept two copies of each miniature. 4A set of these is now in the Corcoran Gallery at Washington. There are about eight hundred individual portraits. A set was sold a quarter of a century age for forty-eight hundred dollars. St. Memin is the despair of the collectors because many of his plates do not bear the name of the sitter. After St. Memin returned to his home in Europe, he was made Licuten- ant-Colonel by the restored Bourbons and, in 1817, he became director of the Museum at Dijon, which post he held for nearly half a century, until bis death in 1852. Little or nothing * known of his life beyond what is co! tained in the funeral oration of in a miring friend. Octol Ho Ve i ana C gat ed youth fres hf O ( > mann’s able fre | Thet plants 1 whole s —clear sons of Wher porary the inte them h WOUMMMIMM“aM SSRIS SSSA SSSA “SCRATCHES tival for Job’ Suggested ye: daily b tweer A boil ust s on my back, appeared; I g Perspective. half fainting wiped dishes ¢

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OGUE E § verses the | breeches verplaided nd brown breeches in Si nor r who js vine jodh. whipcord at is ong, The habit on. MIN 1e village itifu! and with the Newark liature of man. In scent has 3S, and a of Nev rious and ved upon . French- With this a strictly ; sitter, a 1 crayon, is profile r panto- 1 a circle the sitter min, wh rate asa costum eye, ex il to the yon pro On Cop- the roul- improved was in shing de- pression ONES days to sold to t and a r thirty- alent to dollars red that portrait- ed only - Memin ture. A Yorcoran re about raits. A tury age ars. St. yllectors, not bear to his Licuten- ourbons, yr of the he held ntil his thing #8 5 con- t an ad- fres h food peteoer 15, 1925 THEY FOUGHT ILL-HEALTH Ho.» they banished constipation ana complexion troubles —re- gained the freshness, the joy of youih—with the aid of one simple OT a “cure-all,” not a medi- cine in any sense—Fleisch- mann’s Yeast is simply a remark- able fresh food. The millions of tiny active yeast plants in every cake invigorate the whole system. They aid digestion —clear the skin—banish the poi- sons of constipation.

Where cathartics give only tem- porary relief, yeast strengthens the intestinal muscles and makes % them healthy and active. And RASA AQ0w0WY Ss i Uy Ud

yo:

y “ScRavCHES FESTERED, pin pricks turned to boils—I was a ‘val {or Job’s laurels. My nerves were chaotic. A neighbor Suggested yeast and I took 4 cakes of Fleischmann’s Yeast daily bc tween meals for one month. The incredible happened. A boil just starting dried away painlessly; minor blemishes on my back, which I had had in series for years, totally dis- appearsd; I grew steadily stronger, and life reassumed normal Perspective. Finally I, who had dragged to my housework, half fainting from the least exertion, had surplus energy and “ped dishes dancing to phonograph records!” Mrs. R. G. Bootu, Port Washington, N. Y. Vayda Dra

mY WOOT nN Wy wwe ye ew; ;wwwerhem@ : : ¢ yt si * “THIS SPRING, desperate from years of consti- pation and unavailing attempts to cure its re- sultant evils, I read this definition by a physi- cian: ‘Yeast is an antiseptic and is effective in all diseases in which there is threatened putrid- ity.’ I began taking one cake in warm water before breakfast and at bedtime. My looks a month later demonstrated a release from cathar- tics. Continuing the treatment, I gained daily in vigor. Years of intestinal poisoning take their toll of youth; so I shall continue to drink my yeast to protect that which makes life worth living, my good health. My sincerest regret is my shortsightedness in not taking Fleisch- mann’s Yeast several years ago.” Mrs, Carrie M, Crema, Philadelphia,Pa. Mlllldlildlllyyy, Yb Ja ?°;’°™ >”) ~°””°°”°) Y > "°°

khihkhaliidddiillZlllf[VII°i1111 121 AND WON day by day it releases new stores of energy. Eat two or three cakes regularly every day before meals: on crack- ers—in fruit juices or milk—or just plain. For constipation espe- cially, dissolve one cake in hot water (not scalding) before breakfast and at bedtime. WY Buy several cakes at a time— they will keep fresh in a cool dry place for two or three days. All grocers have Fleischmann’s Yeast. Start eating it today! And let us send you a free copy of our latest booklet on Yeast for Health. Health Research Dept. S.21, The Fleischmann Company, 701 Washington St., New York. SW. SQ WW0 Ee '> rw WN SS MXM QQ

“THIS SPRING, just recovering from a serious illness, I asked my physician if Yeast would do me any good. He said that it was very good, so I began eating it. I am no longer trou- bled with indigestion, headaches, or stomach troubles of any kind, nor do I any longer wish to hide my face on account of the pimples. Instead of the pale sallow look, I have a good rosy complexion. I both look better and feel better. I have a good appetite and now can eat a hearty meal, and en- joy it. Fleischmann’s Yeast has wrought this wonderful change, for at present I use no other remedies.” Miss Jenny CHArTRAND, St. Hyacinthe, Que.

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VOGUE WHAT THEY REA D

[A National Institution (xii5} From Coast to Coast “|

By BERENICE C. SKIDELSKY MONG the few figures of serious pointment comes with the feeling, afte, import in American letters—the perusal, that not only has the thesis few writers likely to outlive their own not been convincingly — established little moment (if, indeed, such prog- but also that there is a Utopian hope. nostications are ever valid)—is the sub- fulness back of the suggestions sven ject of a very interesting recent vol- for the liberation of this natur ume, “THEODORE DREISER,” by Burton ubiquitous genius which is equall Rascoe (McBride), third in a Modern without convincingness, except per. American Writers series now cur- haps for those temperaments tha! ar rent. The inevitable 4 priori interest capable of confusing Utopia and awakened by the subject is supple- reality. mented and sustained by the treat- It would take, unfortunately, vastly ment: for Mr. Rascoe is apparently more space than is available here fo, actuated by a violent partisanship, the extensive discussion which Mrs and, although at times it leads him Austin’s work invites and, indeed into extravagances that might cause merits; for, whether one agrees with some demur, it also adds an engag- all her conclusions or not, one mug ing sincerity and fervour to the other accord her performance the respect merits of his work. due to an earnest, careful, and venv. The violent partisanship is not sur- inely scholarly investigation of th prising. An interesting thing about material with which it deals. Brief Theodore Dreiser is that his work summarized, the book starts with , evokes either great enthusiasm or concept of genius as “the free, wp. great antagonism; there seems to be tutored play of the racial inheritang no middle course. And this is not into the immediate life of the ip. to be wondered at, for there is a stark dividual,” insisting that its test j The CARLTON | and rugged and austere quality in his not what it produces, but the wa genius that could not possibly have it works; that “genius is primarily ; hia 1D an 2D ore universal appeal, though there is the type of psychological activity,” and i iia compensation that it appeals tremen- that it is erroneous to suppose that 2 , dously when it appeals at all. Rich- “because works of surpassing genius A smart and exclusive fg. ard Le Gallienne, discussing the work are rare ... genius itself is rare’ Browning King model for of Dreiser with the present reviewer, It proceeds to discuss the ways anf the boy’s first dinner suit. | declared him to be “a Caliban among Means by which the genius capacity writers;” but, then, in the Le Gal- frequently lying dormant under th lienne concept of the beautiful, there surface self, can be liberated and mak is more than a little admixture of the active. These methods, far too com. pretty, and, since this is a not un- Plex to be treated in a few words common condition, there are, in- include auto-suggestion, prayer, auto. evitably, many persons in accord with prayer, meditation, contemplation, his estimate. On the other hand, 2d so on—offering, from the point there would be many: who would of view of many readers (and ce agree with me that if all the novels tainly from that of the present re. of the world were to be thrown on Viewer) a system of mental and spirit the scrap-heap with the exception of ual gymnastics which, despite its ek a scant few hundred, some of the ments of value, is in too many ways Dreiser novels—notably JENNIE GER- like the magically releasing “adac HARDT and perhaps one or two more, abra” of the fairy-tale to be ade as well—would be among those worthy quate for human psychology as i of salvage. In other words, Dreiser’s really is. artistry, his outlook, and his thinking As the chapters of the book ap have that authentic essence of beauty eared one after another in mag. that transcends mere prettiness and 2me€ form, they were studied in mt reduces it to the comparatively flimsy ™erous university classrooms. It i and impermanent thing that it is. the sort of book, indeed, that mus Such also, apparently, is the belief be studied rather than read; and it of Burton Rascoe. He is in hot tem- Offers considerable stimulation. Fo per against some of the Dreiser de- Some, this will come in the form d tractors; and, in page after page of Ta yey and the practice his book, he wields a triumphant Of the rules laid down; for others The WAVERLY | lance in defence of his author, parry- it will lie in the challenge to thei ing, with the swift, strong strokes Wn beliefs and the sharpening d of a conviction that is emotional as their wits as they controvert th well as mental, the thrusts of his author’s dictums; for still other This English style of box | opponents, with special emphasis upon _ there will be an alternation and balan Overcoat is designed by | one or two more or less well-known ~ the two. At any rate, no thought Browning King and to be | critics who have written disparag- ul person will be able to read i : 5 ; ingly of Dreiser. without being made to think. obtained only at Browning The book discusses Dreiser’s place There is the usual output of mys King stores. and achievement and gives a brief ac- _‘ tery stories. One of these, somewhil count of his life and an analysis of spoiled by too much would-be hi his personality. A chronological bib- our and would-be wisdom (the digres liography lists the thirteen books that sions into the latter being frequent BOSTON KANSAS CITY, KAN. | Mr. Dreiser has to his credit as the long, and tedious) is “THE Prrasu 407 Washington St. 650 Minnesota Ave. | fruit of a quarter of a century of Buyers,” by Arthur Somers Rod BROOKLYN, N. Y. a | authorship; a scant output, for this (Macmillan). ‘This is a story of hig Boerne eA Are. wuetiea man is not a prolific writer. Yet, life at Palm Beach, where th: de Liberty Bank Bldg., Lafayette Sa. Nicollet at Eighth St. | though the mills of his mind grind incarnated In the person of Geri CHICAGO , NEW YORK CITY |. slowly, they grind exceeding small. Cassenas, is mysteriously mu dere S65 PENNE SE SEDE TE. It is this last fact that is at the root This individual, handsome, v ealthy 12-14 W. Washington St. eee ae <a a oi Cor. 15th & Douglas Sts. | of his value, and that moves Mr. and utterly without scruples, ™ aa. PHILADELPHIA | Rascoe to acclaim him deserving of lured one girl down to Palm Bead 419 Euclid Ave. _ gga ” wide-spread attention and moves the under false pretences, is attempt ' _ aan Ave. at 107th St. 439-441 Wood St. present reviewer to seize the oppor- to marry another, was_ the bu 1624-30 Stout St. PROVIDENCE +s | tunity to back up the acclaim. several years before of the dvced — wid i A book that holds a promise and a daughter of his present butler, 8 DETROIT ST 1 ies disappointment for the reader is friend of the woman who is the soc Washington Blvd. at Grand River 7th & St. Charles Sts. wah bp Pome ST. PAUL “EvERYMAN’s GENIUS,” by Mary Aus- leader of the Palm Beach co ony,” 524-26 Davis St. : i ; ; 7 ; ; . ‘ - eae Se eee oe | tin (Bobbs Merrill). The promise lies the object of intense hatred upon KANSAS CITY, MO. SEATTLE i a , be Grand Ave. & 11th St. 2nd Ave. & University St. in its premise that “genius is the part of a man whose war giory ° normal possession of all human beings stole by misrepresentations, in not actually defective;” the disap- (Continued on page 124)

Sizes, 7 to 20 yrs.

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the thesis S equally cept per. ely, vastly e here for ich Mrs , indeed, zrees with one must fre quenl PLEAsU October 15, 1925 : In 1910, Fisher did a thing which madethebody-building industry gasp. It bound itself to deliver to a quality car manufacturer, 150 closed bodies within twelve months. If the body manufacturers who were astounded by this “huge undertaking” realized the portent of that contract, they would have had legiti- mate cause for wonder. For, in successfully fulfilling it, Fisher taught a lesson and set an example which revolu- tionized the motor car body- building industry and event- ually brought the closed car within reach of the millions. VY LY Long before entering into this notable contract, Fisher had been preaching and practising the standardization and pre- cision manufacture of motor car bodies. It had also been prophesying thefuture day whentheclosed car would be the common necessity of the multitude— not theluxury ofthevery rich. Until then, all closed bodies had been practically built to order. WY Y The standardization and pre- cision manufacture of these 150 bodies for Fisher’s first convert to the closed car, was a revelation to the industry. The practical, efficiently engi- neered Fisher closed bodies stood up. The 150 cars, scat- tered throughout the United States, started a real desire for closed car ownership. From that time, the demand for closed cars has increased until today it constitutes the major part of every motor car company’s output. FISHER BODY CORPORATION CLEVELAND DETROIT ST. LOUIS WALKER VILLE, ONT. Le

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124 How delightful to use a delicate powder which assures daintiness for the whole day! By Letitia Hadley 66 . EODO will lead many more women to the use of a deodorant,” said a letter which came to me the other day. “I think it is exactly what women have been waiting for, for a long time. : know it is! Ten thousand women were questioned as to their preferences before Deodo was perfected, and their wishes were fulfilled in the new product. I doubt if so much care and forethought ever before went into a product prior to its being offered for general use. The Mulford Laboratories—which are world- famous for such achievements as the standardization of drugs—devoted months to the research and experiment which brought Deodo to perfection. It is a fine, white powder faintly fragrant with almost unbelievable capacity for absorbing and neutralizing body odors. It does this, mind you, without seal- ing the pores or interfering with their important functions. To rub it under the arms and dust it over the body only requires an instant. It is so delightful to use! It soothes—brings healing comfort if the skin is tender. And it doesn’t stain or otherwise damage clothing. Ou tside of Deodo’s important daily uses, you will find invaluable its immediate and continued effectiveness on sanitary napkins. Surely it is a boon to know you are sweet and fresh, regardless of circumstances. Deodo truly brings a new refinement—a new assurance. And I know you will enjoy it for étse/f—it is so exquisitely, luxuriously feminine! It is sold at most druggists’ and toilet goods counters—or I will send you a miniature container, holding a generous supply, free. Please mail the coupon today! CO A MULFORD PRODUCT prevents and destroys body odors VOGUE 10-25 H. K. MULFORD COMPANY Mulford Building, Philadelphia, Pa. a Please send me the free sample of Deodo. | Name | Street In Canada, address H. K. Mutrorp Company, Toronto WHAT (i. a VOGUE READ (Continued from page 122) summing up, one who might with good cause have been the victim of nearly all of these persons or others related to them, The mystery is eventually solved by the Reverend Thaddeus Workman, ex-pugilist and detective, now turned revivalist, but willing to be Sherlock Holmes again when a mystery is sufficiently allur- ing. Of course, the solution points in every direction but the right one until the very end, so that the sur- prise may be duly sprung. The book runs pretty much accord- ing to pattern; too much so to be of much interest ‘to readers who are very familiar with the cut of it. Another book with some degree of mystery element is “STOLEN IDOLs,” by E. Phillips Oppenheim (Little, Brown). It is natural to argue from precedent and to approach certain writers with certain definite expecta- tions. It is natural, in an Oppen- heim novel, to look for nothing ex- cept narrative; and of pure narrative one demands that it be smooth, swift running, and fairly absorbing as to plot. On these counts, the present book is disappointing. Mr. Oppen- heim writes as one a trifle weary of his task; or, perhaps, as one to whom the task has become purely mechan- ical, so that he treads the accus- tomed groove abstractedly, his mind on other things. The result, in this case, is that the too obvious ma- chinery back of the work, always dead- ening the effect of spontaneity, hasn’t even the dubious virtue of smooth- ness. It sometimes sticks and catches, so that there is a great deal of going over and over the same ground, with no gain in clarity and a decided loss in interest. The story deals with a young En- glishman’s attempt to steal two idols from a Chinese temple, because of the tradition that attaches to them, crediting them with being the hiding- place of an untold wealth in jewels placed within them by priests several generations before. One of the idols, the Soul, is very beautiful; the other, the Body, is correspondingly hideous; and much point is made at the outset of the fact that one is valueless with- out the other, so that one is led to expect a greater symbolism in the development than one finds. The young man goes to England with the 3ody; the Soul remains in China, but is eventually brought to England by the archaeologist, Endacott, who is the uncle of the girl with whom the young man is in love. The final ac- quisition of the jewels by the young man is arrived at by winding and devious paths, involving a love-affair between the young man’s father and the girl’s aunt, the transformation of a supposed Chinese merchant into his American self, a murder, evidences of that noble readiness on every one’s part, characteristic of non-realistic romances; to take blame falsely and thus save the other fellow, and an ultimate happy adjustment for every- body concerned. No doubt, as has been stated by many who are in a position to know, it is a risky thing to deduce a man’s character or personality from his writings; but, at any rate, one finishes “THe SUNNY SIDE,” by A. A. Milne (Dutton) with the feeling that its author is avery delightful person. At least, he seems to be; and to spend an hour or two with a very de- lightful person (even though it be through the medium of print) is always a charming experience. The book is made up of sketches and poems, by the distinguis ied author of “Mr. Pym PAssEes By” ind other stage successes. They are grouped under several headings, such as Summer Days, War Time (for Mr. Milne faced fire in the trench:s), Home Notes, A Few Guests, and others. Delicious humour characier- izes the whole—the sort at which one chuckles often and sometimes laughs aloud. The material appeared wick. ly in London Punch over a period of several years; and in’ the easy manner of one having a leisurely chat with friends, it discusses books, dogs, social relations, marital ditto, hero worship, and sundry other matters, Of course, the excellence is not al- ways even, as is bound to be the case in a compilation of the sort; but not the most case-hardened misan- thrope could fail to thaw now and again before its genial, kindly fun. “Like Caesar’s wife, beyond re- proach,” has so become a household byword that “THE WoMEN OF THE CAESARS,” by Guglielmo Ferrero (Put- nam), is sure to rouse curiosity and thereby to command attention, by its title alone. The author was impelled to his task by a feeling that since ancient history was so almost ex- clusively masculine, those moments in which women did play an important part are backgrounded into — such sharp relief that they can not but be extraordinarily interesting. It was the century between the death of Julius, first of the Caesars, and Nero, that certain women in Rome were of prime importance in the moulding of its political destiny; and_ with these women this excellent work deals, A perusal of the book indicates the validity of what the reader may have long strongly suspected—that some of the wives of the Caesars were a little less beyond reproach than others. The first woman to be discussed is Livia, wife of Augustus, a woman of unusual mind and character, who ap- parently justified the adage to the full. But Julia, daughter of Augustus by a former marriage, was of different calibre; imperious and pleasure-loving, she broke every moral law and legal statute, and, after a hectic existence in which she succeeded in dividing Rome into warring factions, she was forced into retirement by her father, in fulfilment of a law that, reluctant though he was to enforce it, left him no alternative. Other women walk through the pages—Agrippina the younger, sister of Caligula and mother of Nero, 2 splendid type of woman murdered eventually by her monstrous son; Julia the younger, daughter of the Julia mentioned above, who followed her mother through a lurid career into enforced retirement; Messal/ina, wife of Claudius, and several more. And, as you walk with them, you catch the glamour of old-world events, (0 the charm of which the numerous and lovely illustrations contribute. “THE OLD WoMAN OF THE Mv VIES —AND OTHER Stories,” by V. B asco Ibanez’ (Dutton) is a collectio: 0 fifteen stories, originally publish d in numerous prominent magazines. [hey are typical Ibanez stories, v hich means that they are full of fire and vitality, that they are rich in local colour, that they are replete with sel- timent that threatens every little \vhile to spill over into sentimentality and too frequently does it, that they have a strong sense of dramatic v:lucs (Continued on page 130) Octo WHO betray the gr its ma colors black. and ti caded applic to 20. N , 4 f Cast ing f T. beco soph clotl of ta won best A quis: chos Oo; city celli be g addr

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OGUE A D f sketc hes tinguis ied s By” ind They are ‘ings, Such Time (for trenchis), lests, and charac 'er- which one ies laughs red wi ek. a period the easy urely chat oks, d ZS, itto, hero * matters, S not al- oO be the sort; but d misan- now and ly fun. yond re- household | OF THE ero (Put- osity and yn, by its impelled hat since most ex- ments in important ito = such ot but be It was death of nd Nero, - were of moulding nd_ with rk deals, cates the nay have at some ; were a n others. ussed is oman of who ap- the full. istus by different e-loving, nd_ legal existence dividing she was - father, ‘eluctant left him igh the r, sister Nero, a urdered IS son; of the ‘ollowed career »ssa lina, 1 more. yu catch ents, to ous and Movies 3 asco tio of shed in 3. They v hich ire and n local th sen- e while ty and “y have v.lues, October 15, 1925 WHIMSY WHIMSY — An ingenuous little frock, betraying its distinguished inspiration in the guile of its trimming and the beauty of its material—exquisite Corticelli Satin. The colors are soft flattering Worth blue or black. The upstanding collar, wrist bands and tunic border are of velvet-surfaced bro- caded chiffon, in dusky purple and maroon, appliquéd on the satin with beads. Sizes 14 to 20. N the smartest shop or store in your city every month you will find a variety of chic new Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions — includ- ing frocks and beautiful coats. They have the graceful lines, the becoming softness, the intriguing sophistication which Irene Castle’s clothes always have. That sureness of taste and style instinct which has won her well deserved fame as the best dressed woman in America. And they are made of the ex- guisite Corticelli silks Irene Castle chose for them. One exclusive shop in nearly every city carries the Irene Castle Corti- celli Fashions. Write us and we shall be glad to give you the name and address of the shop nearest you. RHAPSODY Upstanding Collars : + Skirts that swirl + + The more fitted waist mark the new IRENE CASTLE JOCELYN MIRABELLE JOCELYN—Dashing charm is in every line of this intriguing Irene Castle coat. Velvety pile fabrics in soft rich purple, bluejay and ~~ bird blues, cuckoo brown and black, ashion it. The belt confines itself to the back and tiesat the side. Queen Anne collar and bell cuffs of soft fur. The lining is lovely Corticelli Crepe Eldora. Sizes 16 to 20. RHAPSODY — The very keynote of the mode is sounded in this charming new Irene Castle design. Of heavy Corticelli Silk rep, black with pleated red silk crepe collar, lower sleeves and pocket piping. There is a touch of gold embroidery on the collar, cuffs and down the back. In other fashionable colors too. Sizes 14 to 20. MIRABELLE—The tailored smartness of this frock softened by piquant feminine detail made it appeal to Irene Castle's dis- criminating taste. Of lustrous Corticelli crepe-back satin, the satin side used for the dress, the crepe side for the trimming and drapery. Brown fox gives weight and em- phasis to the side fulness. In forest green, cuckoo, pencil blue and black. Sizes 14 to 20. eli Fashions CaSsTLE Cortice nd 68 orticelli Silk seg 2 pe booklet of the new ow The 136 Madison Avenue, me the free le Corticelli “Trene Cast Please send Fashions Send for Booklet of This Month's Models

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cA New Ant of Corsetry &Z ns is the art which brings corseting up b to-date with clothes, an art appreciated by the woman who knows that a smart frock worn with distinction is worth two spoiled by dowdy figure lines. Most figure faults are not a matter of size but of proportion, and a fault which is not uncommon is an excess of flesh at the hips—a most unflattering development since it seems to betoken years as well as pounds. A Wrap-around * ; . sodisipiins the bipe For this figure fault, whether it be pre- sent in a large figure or a small one, the new REDFERN art of corsetry offers the most agreeable of solutions in a design developed in either Wrap-around* or Corselette*. Cleverly-shaped reinforce- ments of material aredrawn downover this part of the figure by hose supporters, gently but effectually disciplining the un- becoming curves into the narrow slimness requisite to smart frocks. Insist upon being fitted in a REDFERN. Copies are likely to prove a disappoint- ment. The same design in ” a Corselette “Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. Send for booklet, Department C, The Warner Brothers Company, 347 Madison Ave., New York City; 367West Adams St., Chicago; 28 Geary St., San Francisco. Ng ede Wie tei Ue dg Te dig weg tie ieee tee te dog tig ANSWERS NY reader can obtain from Vogue Aztcrnstion Service answers to questions on social conventions, customs, entertaining, and matters of etiquette, on costume and fashion, on household decoration, on shops and wholesale houses dealing in merchan- dise of interest to Vogue readers, and on other subjects that fall within the scope of this magazine, by conforming to the following regulations. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS (1) The name and address must be legibly written or printed at the begin- ning or end of every letter. (2) In order to answer all inquiries promptly, Vogue suggests that as few questions as possible be asked in any one letter; a reply may be delayed be- cause of the totally unrelated questions contained in a letter, any one of which may require a considerable amount of research to answer it adequately. (3) Unless especially requested to keep a reply confidential, Vogue is priv- ileged to publish any inquiry and an- swer that it considers of interest to its readers. Mrs. D. M. W.: What plan of decoration can one follow to carry out a rainbow colour scheme in an autumn wedding ? Ans.: At a recent wedding that was carried out in rainbow colouring, the usual green of potted ferns and palms formed the background of decorations, but, over the rounded archway which opened into a small alcove, a rainbow of tulle—rose, pale pink, yellow, green, blue, and lavender—was arranged. Pink and yellow roses with green foliage were supplemented in the living-room by blue and lavender tulle on the vases. The six bridesmaids wore gowns that matched the tulle rainbow, and they carried pink roses. On the table in the dining-room was a bowl of pink roses, and from the light fixture a myriad of streamers in the same varied colours came down at six points and were held in place by six fluffy favour dolls dressed in tulle to match the six brides- maids, to whom they were afterward given as souvenirs. Miss E. A. M.: Are henna baths that will give an olive tint to the skin ad- visable ? Ans.: Henna should not be used in any form on the skin. In the Orient, henna is used to stain the finger-tips (although that would not be regarded as a mark of beauty in this country), but it is not used to change the colour of the complexion, nor would it be de- sirable to do so. A henna application would make the face a disagreeable Indian-red shade, and it would dry and coarsen the skin very badly. Noth- ing can be done to change the tone of the complexion permanently. If one feels that a darker skin would be more becoming, a very dark face powder may be used. Miss B. G.: On leaving the table after any formal meal, where should one put the napkin one has used; also, should it be left folded? Should a salad be served before the meat course at a formal dinner, if no soup or ap- petizer is served? Is it correct to serve salad first at a luncheon? Ans.: A napkin is not refolded after a restaurant or hotel meal, nor when one is a guest at the home of a friend for one meal only. At such times, the unfolded napkin should be laid on the right hand of the dessert plate or finger-bow]. It should never be wadded VOGUE TO CORRESPONDENTS up into a ball. If, however, one is visiting for several days in a friends home, it is correct to fold one’s napkin, because, in many homes, a fresh napkin is not provided for each meal. A sald is never served before the main meat course, either at luncheon or dinner, An entrée (if one is served) comes before the meat course, and this may be the dish to which your letter re- ferred, because entrées are sometimes served on a lettuce leaf. The first course at a formal dinner is usua'ly soup; at many informal dinners, and particularly during the summer, a fruit cocktail is substituted for the soup. The first course of luncheon generally con- sists of a fruit cup, and the second a clear thin soup. A salad is sometimes served as the main course at luncheon during the summer months, but it is always preceded by a fruit cup, or soup, or both. If the main course is a meat or fish dish, the salad is served after or with it, never before. Miss M. C.: What will be correct in hosiery this autumn and winter? Will stockings match the gowns, or will the vogue of light stockings continue into autumn and winter? Ans.: Stockings in light colours, with rose-beige predominating, will be generally favoured for autumn and Winter wear. The Paris mode indicates a tendency to match the costume scheme with stockings of a lighter shade of the same colour, but such colours as green or blue in stockings are seldom worn by the smart women. French nude, bois-de-rose, and grey are the most popular hosiery shades; and, of these, the shade that harmon- izes best with the costume should be chosen. Miss M. N.: In planning a small afternoon wedding at a country home, is it necessary for any member of the bridal party to wear gloves? If so, who wears them, and what type of glove: is correct? The reception, a trifle larger than the wedding, is to be held at the country club. Who should stand in the receiving line, and what is the usual order? Ans.: Gloves may be worn or omitted at present, according to the taste of the bride. If she thinks they become her and her way of dressing, she wears them; otherwise, and usually, not. Nor are they worn nowadays by brides- maids or guests at a country wedding; the present mode favours the ungloved rather than the gloved hand. A receiv- ing line is not necessary at modern re- ceptions. The bride’s mother stands near the door to receive her guests as they come in. The groom’s mother may, if convenient and agreeable, st nd near her, or she may be seated within the room and have guests brought to her by some member of the bride's family. The bride, groom, and brices- maids usually stand in some other room or on the farther side of the main room, and the ushers go to and fro bringing up people to congratu'ate them. Men do not receive in line; the fathers of the bride and groom ay wander about, speaking to different groups of people. A “receiving line’ 1s an awkward thing; the longer it 1s, the longer it takes people to pass It and the more it crowds the doorway. The arrangement suggested abov: 15 more pleasant and more convenient Miss W. DeM.: When wedding con- gratulations are received, should one simply write the words “Thank you 50 much” on the visiting-card of both the (Continued on page 128) indi Labl. unlih used, man’ who “Tr

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GUE NTS , one is friends ; napkin, 2 napkin A salad in meat dinner, ) comes his may stter re- metimes ‘he first usua ‘ly ers, and , a fruit up. The ly con- econd a metimes uncheon ut it is cup, or ourse is Ss served yrrect in r? Will will the 1ue into colours, will be nn and ndicates -ostume lighter ut such tockings women. id grey shades; larmon- ould be a small y home, - of the If so, type of tion, a ry is to Who ne, and omitted aste of become e wears ot. Nor brides- dding; ngloved receiv- lern re- stands lests as mother > stand within ught to bride’s brices- » other Ye main nd_ fro ratuiate ne; the m inay iffe rent line’ is - it is, pass it yoray. ov: is ent ng on- Id one yo 1 SO oth the October 15, 1925 ; HERE is a subtle individuality about Lablache Face Powder unlike any I have ever used. And I know so many particular women who will use no other.” —I]renzE RIcH Se as cs E saan ASLAN _ The Face Powder of Quality - AND New Requisites for the Toilette Regular Powder, 50c Large Powder, $1.00 Compact, Single—powder only, $1.00 Compact, Double— powder, rouge, $1.50 Compact Triple—powder, rouge, lipstick, $1.75 Loosepact Ensemble, containing loosepact and box of powder to refill—Single, $1.75 Loosepact Ensemble, Double, $2.25 Loosepact Ensemble, Triple, $2.50 Glove Rouge Vanity, 50c Glove Powder Vanity, 50c Lipstick, changeable—orange turning to red, 50c Red Lipstick—rose, poppy, ge- Tanium, 50c Lipstick Deluxe, $1.00 Eyebrow Pencil, hexagon, 35c Compound Toilet Powder, bottle, 75¢ After the Bath Powder, tin, $1.00 Bath Salts, $1.50 Beauty Rouge, 75c Face Tonic, $1.00 Astringent Lotion, $1.00 Day Cream, Vanishing, 75c Cleansing Cream, 75c Tissue Cream, $1.00 Beauty Cream, $1.00 yy OMEN who know what they want—and why—select Lablache—not wholly because there has been but one Lablache for more than three generations— But because they demand its smooth, caressing, non-irritating purity for the good of their ccmplexions. And its fragrance—an original odeur—delicate as spring daffodils, lasting as experience. Lablache Face Powder and Requisites are sold everywhere. Any requisite not supplied by your dealer will be mailzd postpaid on receipt of price. Send for free sample of powder and illustrated catalog of Lablache Creations. BEN LEVY COMPANY Dept. 147—125 Kingston Street, BOSTON id i THE CHOICE OF GENTLEWOMEN FOR THREE GENERATIONS

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128 Haviland Chin Illustration directly above shows ‘ the design in actual size ey WE take pleasure in presenting “Old Gold”— ‘another of the many charming patterns to be found wherever Haviland China is sold. “Old Gold” was given its name by friends in apt descrip- tion of its richly beautiful golden yellow decoration. Since 1837 our china has enjoyed an enviable teputation. In purchasing besureto notice carefully the Trade Marks. OECORATED BY aovilang slang, fo France Limoges” Unless these Trade Marks appear on each piece, you will notbe gettingthe Genuine Haviland China Manufactured at Limoges, France Haviland China may be found in a profusion of beautiful pat- terns at all first class China or Department Stores. Write for name of nearest dealer if you have any difficulty locating one. aviland China Co. Inc. 11 East 36th Street, New York ANSWERS VOGUE TO CORRESPONDENTS (Continued from page 126) husband and wife, or are two individ- ual cards enclosed? When one writes a message of this sort on a card, should the engraved names be crossed through and one’s own signature used in its place? One receives so many telegrams that it would be quite a task to ac- knowledge by letter every congratula- tory note. Ans.: Each wedding gift is always acknowledged by a short personal letter from the bride, but wedding congratu- lations need not be acknowledged, ex- cept, perhaps, when they come from very dear and close friends and the bride feels that she wants to send a little note of appreciation for the kind wishes expressed. In any case, how- ever, visiting-cards are never used for acknowledgments of any kind, whether for gifts or congratulations. A short personal note should be written. Con- gratulations sent by telegram are never acknowledged, as the senders under- stand that a bride receives too many of them, in some cases hundreds of them, to permit of acknowledging every one. Miss H. C.: Is it correct for a lady walking with two gentlemen to walk between the gentlemen or on the in- side of the walk? When one is intro- ducing one’s mother to a person of the same age, who should be presented, the guest or the mother? Ans.: It is courteous for a man to walk between a woman and the outer street, because, traditionally, there was the possibility of danger, and there, in consideration of her safety, he had to be. Therefore, as the matter of pro- tection has always been the governing motive for this custom, a young lady may walk between two young men on the street, or on the inside; in the latter case, the men would be between her and the street. When introducing a member of one’s family and a guest, both women, the relation is introduced to the guest; for instance, one would say, “Mrs. Smith, I should like to introduce my mother to you.” Mrs. R. B.: One often finds a dinner-table set with the rectangular doilies in Italian linen and needlework or with the white cut-work and mosaic sets and tea-napkins of the same mate- rial as the doilies. Is this correct, and is it true that damask is now being stored away? Ans.: To-day, dinner-tables are much less formally set than they were heretofore, and people frequently use dinner-sets such as you describe. At a large formal dinner, however, the damask cloth and napkins are still used. There is nothing more beau- tiful in the way of material for dinner- sets than damask, and anybody who has damask is not storing it away. At the same time, if one has not any dam- ask, the table set in the manner referred to is perfectly permissible. Miss A. H.: What is the correct method of eating soup? Ans.: The chief points to remember in eating soup is that one should avoid putting the whole soup-spoon, or as much of it as one can get, into the mouth, and that the soup should be sipped from the side of the spoon. When the soup is hot, let us use the spoon and not, in the grown-up world, blow upon it. When it is cool, let us finish it in polite, but potent sips from the cup. A spoon is more elegant, per- haps, but there are times when ele- gance, pushed to the last extreme, be- comes tiresome. To keep six people who have finished their soup waiting while one who is being elegant with a spoon has not, is boring and unnece essary. Miss C. DeR.: Please be good enough to give me the name of a sur- geon who does reliable and artistic work in lifting the face. Ans.: Vogue does not care to recom. mend plastic surgery to its readers bc.~ cause of the risk involved. There hav, of course, been many cases where these operations have been successful, but there have been numerous others wher the results were injurious, and the de- sired improvement was not achievec. The care of one’s health, together wit! careful massage and proper exercis:, is far more efficacious in retaining a youthful appearance and a youthful contour of body and face than surgery. Miss L. McC.: What is the correct dress for the bridegroom and the father of the bride for an informal home wedding? The bride is to wear a veil. Please suggest a simple menu for the wedding breakfast. Ans.: At an informal house wedding occurring at noon, the groom, best man, and bride’s father, if they do not wish to wear formal attire, may wear short black single-breasted jackets, with black- and-white striped or light grey trou- sers, and a grey or buff coloured waist coat. Or, they could wear dark blue or black sack suits. A bride who appears in a conventional gown and veil is, of course, wearing formal wedding attire, but this does not necessarily mean that the entire wedding is formal. The other details of the wedding may be as formal or informal as the bride wishes them. The following is a simple wed- ding menu: Clam Broth or Consommé in Cups Chicken or Lobster Croquettes Cold Meats Celery and Lettuce Salad Ice-Cream Cake Coffee If buffet refreshments are preferred, one would serve the kind of food suit- able for an elaborate afternoon tea—a sufficiency of delicate small sandwiches and delicious little cakes, tea and coffee, with, possibly, the addition of a salad and ice-cream. Punch is a pleasant ad- dition. In this case, the refreshments are arranged in the dining-room, with an adequate supply of plates, cups, saucers, spoons, forks, and napkins at hand, and the guests may be served or may serve themselves. Mrs. C. W. W.: In answering the telephone, should one give one’s Chris- tian name or one’s married name, and, in leaving the name over the telephone, which form should be used? In writing a message upon one’s calling-card, should one sign one’s Christian or married name, when one is not 01 intimate terms with the persons fer whom the card is left? When ones husband is included in the message should the signature include his nam:, as Mr. and Mrs. George Smith? O subscription lists, when one is require to write one’s name, which form correct, the Christian or married name ? Ans.: At the telephone, one giv one’s name as “Mrs. So-and-So” ‘0 a servant or trades person; but on gives one’s Christian name to a frier or a person of one’s own rank, “This is Susan Smith speaking.” leaving cards, one does not have write the name, for it is already e- graved on the card. If one wishes ‘0 write a message on the card, however, the Christian name would be signe‘. (Continued on page 130) a mw ee Oo w wn 4 oO fF Octe To th Sliver f Oj trem Yer al pat 713

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October 15, 1925 i29 Erasure GUE NTS 44¢

nt with . unneCe e good f.a sur- artistic recom. lers be. re havi. re these ul, but s where the de- é chievec, f er Wit) xercisc, ining a outhful urgery, correct d » father ; home vear a nu for ay £ a edding st man, yt wish r short . black- r trou- waiste dslue or ppears | is, of attire, in that The r be as wishes > wed-

- AN ferred, 1 suit tea—a wiches coffee, . salad nt ad- iments , With Cups, ‘ins at ved or CONSE

ig the Chris- , and, phone, riting -Carc, in or ot on is for one s essage Y ; ¢ : ; nam, Mary II is a sister-pattern that shows a most interesting adaptation ? On @) of the arabesque marquetry so prevalent in the William and Mary quired period. Ask your jeweler to show you either pattern—or both—and soetligs don’t forget the complete assortment of hollow-ware in your admira- < tion of the flat silver 2 ‘ af Milliam

1 6) STERLING 925/1000 Fine EOPLE who appreciate correctness of design know that Treasure Solid Silver reflects with absolute fidelity the traditions of the great master- Cc designers. In the William and Mary pattern, for example, its every line and curve stamp it as belonging to that famous period when Dutch simplicity joined hands with English beauty.

lam < givis ee 0” 10 y ; t one Brochures of either the William and Mary or the Mary II will be sent at your request. A and 3 Vary ( Style friend KE. as To those who are contemplating selecting ” In Silver tableware, this booklet will be found R O G E R S 9 L U N K & B O W L E N C O ° C3<4 0j tremendous interest. It will be mailed to noaey or ve 10 Jou al your request. BC haem 55 KENWOOD ST. “Ea ame As illustrated, 716 Candle Sticks, Silversmiths ~. Creators of “Distinctive Tableware = bair $66.00; 711 Chop Dish, $65.00; vever, 713 Fruit Bowl, $45.00. GREENFIELD ~ MASSACHUSETTS OLLOO AL gene. The Mary

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“COhe Ginest “Writing “Papers that can be made” In Economy Boxes ig you wrote your next letter on Louis XIV you would realize why the discriminating users say, “No one could wish for finer writ- ing paper.” A true deckle edge paper with a distinctive pattern that attracts favorable attention everywhere. ano foom- he lovely whiteness and crisp linen finish mark Hand Loom as a stationery quite apart from the ordinary run of linen finish note paper. An all rag sheet, carefully pressed with pure Irish Linen, gives that distinctive finish which makes writing on it a real event. Dockle (Flouskin R those who prefer a vellum finish, Deckle Glovskin is the ne plus ultra. A fine writing sur- face as smooth as its name implies, with a feathery edge that adds just the right touch and smartness. Siomal Kidskin- O easy to write on, this mod- erate priced note paper is be- coming more and more the pride of particular people who prefer a vellum finish for all of their corre- spondence. Your stationer will be giad to supply you with these famous Whiting-Cook style and quality papers in economy boxes, with envelopes to match in all socially correct sizes—many have dainty colorful linings. Also in single quire and exquisite gift boxes. Whiting and Cook ine. | (CN HOLYOKE, MASS. S VOGUE ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS (Continued from page 128) It is unnecessary to sign both one’s own and one’s husband’s name. One’s hus- band can be included in the message, s “George and I are so sorry to miss you,” and then one’s own name is signed. Should one prefer to sign both names, there is nothing wrong in doing so, it is only unusual in general visit- ing. The fact of being on distant terms with people, so that they call one “Mrs.,” does not alter the rule of sign- ing the Christian name. One can al- ways leave a formal, engraved card with “Mrs.” but one can not write the name so when it is wr:tten personally. A “signature” means one’s Christian name. In subscription lists, one would, probably, be put down as “Mrs.,”’ but not by one’s own hand. An hotel re- gister is the only place where one writes one’s name as if addressing an en- velope to oneself. Mrs. C. B.: Is satin to be worn again this autumn, and is it smart in navy- blue? Would flat crépe be smarter? Will circular skirts be generally worn this season, or skirts with circular side gores? With the present vogue of short and narrow skirts and short sleeves, it is difficult to find in the shops models that are suited to a woman who is middle aged, but retains a_ slender figure. Ans.: Flat crépe is exceptionally good WHA T Tage for autumn, but soft crépe-back satin may also be worn. Navy-blue is ai- ways in good taste, especially for older women. Instead of blue, one might select grey or olive-green, as_ bot) shades will lead in popularity and smartness during the coming season. There will not be a great change cf line in the new mode, so a skirt with circular side gores will be permissible, The popular flare shows fulness at the front or side front. In fact, since near'y all skirts show some fulness, the prol- lem of the narrow skirt should le eliminated. Long sleeves continue io be the smartest. Mrs. L. N.: When one is calling and leaves cards, what is implied in the turning down of one of the corners of the card? Ans.: The custom of turning down the corner of a visiting-card is intended by many to convey the fact that the visit is meant for all of the ladies of tlie family; other people mean merely to show that the card was left at the door in person and not sent in an envelope; other people turn down the corners from force of habit and mean nothing whatever. The real reason seems lost in obscurity, and even authorities differ in their opinions on the matter, some interpreting the custom one way and some another. Y R EAD (Continued from page 124) that when they go in for description, as they frequently do, one finds one- self reading it instead of skipping, and that they have humour, under- standing, sympathy, and _ sincerity. It also means that they have the pure “story” value that is an important aspect for many readers. For this Spanish writer is pre- eminently a teller of tales, and he tells them with a gusto that is con- tagious, with an eager absorption into the events of his narrative that gives it the momentum pure story ought to have. The first of. the stories tells of an old woman whose nephew, killed in the War, suddenly appears before her in a moving-picture. She goes every night to the performance during the week it continues, thus developing an obsession that leads her on the hunt when the picture is moved to another house, and finally wastes her sub- stance and ends her life. A surpris- ing touch is the introduction, as a friend of the old woman, of the old pedlar, Crainquebille, that masterly creation of Anatole France (who, by the way, filmed under the title of “BrrL” and portrayed by one of the finest of French actors, offers one of the most artistic screen productions ever shown.) The stories are too varied in theme to be summarized in any way. They deal with life, death, murder, numer- ous phases of the War, love, heroism, cowardice, superstition—a range bear- ing testimony to the versatility of their author and offering promise of interest to numerous tastes and tem- peraments among readers. Mary Lawton is the recorder of “THE QUEEN OF CooKS—AND SoME Kincs” (Boni and Liveright), which is the story of Rosa Lewis, a famous English cook who started life as a scullery maid and rose to great heights in the world of gastronomics. “She charmed me,” writes the re- corder in her foreword, ‘fas she has always charmed every one. Witty, amusing, gay, kind, shrewd, abso- lutely natural, and always unafraid.” She goes on to tell the story, in the first person, more or less exactly as Rosa Lewis told it to her in the presence of a stenographer who made a faithful report of the telling. It has been the fate of this re- markable woman, apparently, to “walk with kings, nor lose the common touch.” If her story is to be trusied (and from corroborating testimony, it is), she not only cooked for nearly all the crowned heads of Europe, to say nothing of an extensive collec- tion of nobles and notables, but she met them on friendly terms. ‘The pages of her record are filled with letters that they wrote her and ru- merous photographs of these persons in high places that she has known. Humour and imagination countcr- balance the note of self-complacency which is often struck; and there 1s much shrewd, profoundly human ob- servation enlivening the pages. It is an unusual transcript, all in all, of the unusual life of an unusual per- sonality.

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satin is ai- - older might bot y and season. ige of t with issible, at the near 'y - prol- ild le 1ue io ng and in the ‘orne’s down tended at the of tlie ‘ely to e door elope; ‘orners othing ns lost 5 differ , some y and D 1 tem- Jer of SoME which ‘amous . as a heights he re- he has Witty, abso- fraid.” in the ctly as in the y made lis re- . “walk ymmon trusied ony, it nearly ope, to collec- ut she The d with ad nu- ‘sons in A. ountcr- lacency here is an ob- It is all, of al per- October 15, 1925 131 Not Only the Leader in Style But a Delight in Power \ The feel of its high power is a miles in a day. That is the final delight to the many owners who touch to a car for which their ad- have bought the New Franklin vir- miration is constantly growing. It tually on sight. They can see its deepens their conviction that this unusual beauty and style. Theyhave is the car they will always want to heard of its unusual riding comfort own. De Causse’s flawless design and reliability. Then comes the thrill is only the introduction to a per- of swift acceleration, poweron the fectly rounded and enduring per- hills, and ability to cover the most formance. i B SEDAN + SPORTSEDAN + TOURING + COUPE * CABRIOLET ob SPORT RUNABOUT ° ENCLOSED-DRIVE LIMOUSINE ae Franklin Series 11 comes ready for the road—fully equipped with appropriate acces- ees sories, spare tire and cover—at the catalog price. Only tax and freight are extra.

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VOGUE LAT VISIBLE eyelets will be seen on advanced Goodyear Welt models in exclu- sive shoe shops, “Diamond Brand Visible Fast Color Eyelets preserve the smooth Style lines of the upper and pro- mote easy lacing. They retain theiroriginal finish indefinitely and atually outwear the shoe. Look for the “Diamond or Trade Mark UNITED FAST COLOR EYELET COMPANY, BOSTON Manufaturers of DIAMOND BRAND Visible FAST COLOR EYELETS

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GUE N important room, the kitchen! That's why modern women are so particular about its equipment. Spick and span, up-to- date appointments; and on the floor, attractive Nairn Gold Seal Inlaid. What a perfect background the pattern in this kitchen is. Its clean-cut lines and crisp, bright colors are so appropriate—they give such an air of cleanly wholesomeness. This and many similar patterns are made especially for kitchen, pantry, and bathroom. You'll find keeping them clean is no effort at all. And they’re thoroughly durable, for the attractive colors go through to the back. For hall, living-room, and dining-room, you'll like the Gold Seal Inlaids that come in A perfect floor — and low-priced, too artistically blended effects. Look at the Be/flor patterns at the right to get an idea of the soft blending of tones. Every Gold Seal Inlaid floor, when laid ac- cording to our directions, carries a guarantee of satisfaction or your money back. When buying Inlaids look for the Gold Seal on the face of the goods, or the Nairn mame stamped on the back. Be sure to get the genuine! Gold Seal Inlaids, illustrated in their actual colors, are shown in a folder which will be mailed if you write for it. CONGOLEUM-NAIRN INC. Philadelphia New York Boston Chicago Kansas City San Francisco Atlanta Minneapolis Cleveland Pittsburgh Dallas New Orleans NAIRN GOLD SEAL — INL AIDS RADE MARK The floor shown in this kitchen is Gold Seal Inlaid, Universal Pattern No. 51-146 This tile design is Gold Seal Inlaid, niversal Pattern No. 53-31 Gold Seal Inlaid, Belflor Pattern No. 7105-7 —— Gold Seal Inlaid, Belflor Pattern No. 7104-8

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\ The Smoke Pearl Nacara effect C > ——————— The VOGUE for COLOR reache s the Dre ty IN) g L y) h / e instance, you can use Rose Sea Pearl for harmony or Smoke Pearl Nacara for contrast. io taste shows itself unerringly in the toilet- And as to the beauty of the toiletware—who ware upon your dressing table. Selected properly could fitly describe the lustrous beauties of the new it adds the completing touch to your room. For, Sea Pearl effect in Fiberloid, its rich iridescence, its if you choose toiletware of Fiberloid, you can select delicate sheen, so like the Orient pearl? from many lovely colors dear to the feminine heart, Yet, Fiberloid Toiletware, for all its splendid from many exquisite styles and charming contours finish, its Parisian artistry of design, its wide variety C AABERLOID Toiletware is smartly and attractively boxed in charming gift packages containing from three to nine essential articles—though if you wish you can buy each article separately. Many, indeed, start their dressing table equipment with a three-piece Fiberloid Coiffure Set— Mirror, Brush and Comb—and add other pieces from time to time. Ask at your favorite store to be shown the newest designs in Fiberloid Toiletware. Or you can write us direct and we will tell you where you can be served. The Fiberloid Corporation, Indian Orchard, Mass. li New York Display Rooms: 402 Fifth Avenue eee eee | to harmonize or contrast with your furnishings, of colorings, is within reach of the modest pocket- hangings, or accessories. In your rose boudoir, for book—though of the utmost luxury in appearance. Toronto Display Rooms: 145 Adelaide St. West + : The Golden Nacara effect eg HR -FIBERLOID [== The Rose Nacara effect } i

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October 15, 1925

3 (( AEN SEB: | aN? y) © iD CXL The SYMBOLS of'a DISTINGUISHED MOTOR CAR JJ “S. =<

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we — CALGSIHONT c/Ptat Mayjestat ... In the personal automotive establishments of His Most Gracious Majesty, King George of Britain, and of King Albert of Belgium, are nothing but cars engined with the patented Knight sleeve-valve motor ... Exactly the same type of engine, sponsored by the same inventor, and built upon precisely the same principle as that perennial piece of sleeve-valve motor- mechanism you get in your American-made Willys-Knight automobile. 4-CYLINDER MODELS FROM $1195 to $1595 + 6-CYLINDER MODELS FROM $1750 to $2295 cAll prices f. 0. b. Toledo +» We reserve the right to change prices and specifications without notice WILLYS-OVERLAND Inc., Toledo, Ohio «+ WILLYS-OVERLAND Saks Co. Lid., Toronto, Canada WILLYS-KNIGHT SI WILLY S - OVERLAND a, Fine-Motor-Cars 3 .’ | om a —— — SSS" SL. Ee Sn i ne S —

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| TODAY'S VOGUE IS FOR DIAMONDS ‘ OF UNUSUAL CUT Distinctive individuality ie the choice and cut of odd shaped stones in original settings oe the unique in jewels and the latest : in goveltiecue Nave been char-~ actenstic of Udall & Ballou for over forty years. We invite your inspection of our present very exceptional pieces. AY JEWELERS AND SILVERSMITHS 734 FIFTH AVENUE ~ » NEW YORK NEWPORT, R.l.~ ~ ~ - ~ MIAMI, FLA. COOEOEDLLOOLOVUOOQO®l! LOD ¥ 8: A pair of old English ruby glass bottles starred in gold, with ivory coasters, are among the choicest treas- ures in Star House = -£ 6S Ss ww YU Ss E (Continued from page 92) myself, a number of accidental ones have come to me. For instance, months after I moved into the house, I dis- covered that my kitchen stove had star-shaped burners! Certainly, no one planned this. And, last Christmas, some friends sent me waffle-irons that made a waffle composed of five hearts with a little star in the centre. I thought this was a most enchanting at- tention, but, when I thanked my friends, they were amazed, as they said that they had simply telephoned a shop for the waffle-irons. So this, too, might be called another celestial accident. Stranger still, this design of hearts and stars is adapted from a magnificent marble floor I once saw in a French chateau. I thought it was charming and tried, unsuccessfully, to get a photograph of it. The floor was made up of hearts and stars in many-coloured marbles. STARRY TREASURES In my little office, where the star rug covers the floor, the only other stars are a pair of little Directoire glass vases engraved with stars, on black marble bases, which were given me by a friend. Across the hall is the dining- room, a pale, silvery room painted all over in Persian decoration by Victor Harvey White The most brilliant galaxy of stars in all Star House is in the entrance-hall, where there is a floor of black ter- razzo inlaid with brass stars and a star lantern from Italy White. Here, faint white stars are painted near the top of the room, but they are so inconspicuous that no one ever remarks them. The _ two little arched closet doors are also starred jn a conventional pattern. My chief treas. ure here is an old silver openwork bread-basket which is made up en- tirely of stars in exactly the same fash- ion as the jardiniére of the Cathedral at Seville. I have one little spoon which has a star cut out of its handle and I hope some day to have it copied, Another accident were the bobéches on the silver candelabra. I sent to a department store for some plain glass ones, and back came glass ones thickly powdered with gold stars, at twenty cents each! My drawing-room has a few stars, but more horses, for that is as much my husband’s room as mine, and he likes prints and things that have to do with fox-hunting as much as I like stars. There are a pair of old ruby glass bottles covered with gilt stars in ivory coasters here, however, and a few cushions made of black satin brocaded in green and cream stars. There are also a few bookbindings and portfolios of starred paper, and some one brought me several sets of playing-cards backed (Continued on page 138) seca pe MMMM S OE — Octol To | best Die Her toile Supt nNeSS of S addt to th Afte Spon Eau appl tion! fresh

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GUE stars are oom, but t no one wo little tarred in ief treas. ypen work . up en ime fash- ~athedral le spoon ; handle, it copied, bobéches sent to a lain glass es thickly at twenty few stars, as much >, and he ave to do as I like old ruby It stars in and a few - brocaded There are portfolios 1e brought rds backed 138) VM x NN ' October ZS; I9 23 “For the Py ath. Cmunine Ljucuries with the Allure of Laris To those who simply must have the best, regardless of price, Savon Dijer- Kiss will commend itself. Here is the finest of fine French toilet soaps—milled to a texture of supreme smoothness and creamt- ness. It performs the double duty of safeguarding delicate skin and adding a touch of perfumed luxury to the bath. After the bath, how refreshing to sponge one’s self with Djer- Kiss Eau de Toilette—then briskly to apply the towell Tingling exhilara- tion! A fragrant sensation of freshness! RAGRANCE, gay and clear, captured in pale green crystals . . . sprinkle a spoonful in your bath and you release the breath of far-off gardens. Trail your fingers through the lightly scented water—how soft, how exquisite it has be- come! Djer-Kiss Bath Crystals (Sels de Bains) make your bath a refresh- ing, invigorating enchant- ment and add a touch of luxury and delight. For the last chic touch: a mere tiny drop or two of Parfum Djer- Kiss and your toilette-complete becomes sparkling, exotic, French, alluring! Now when you go out to dance or dine, about you floats a touch of lingering magic. With this one odeur Kerkoff has scented his many specialties so that all your toilet accessories may echo its Parisian charm,

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Bon ION end ROYAL WORCESTER Corsets and Combinations al "Wane Bon Ton 2651 Brassiere Cor-Set Combination Price, $6.50 Other models at $5, $10, and $17.50 Jigures by Bon" Ton’ N? MATTER what figure you want, Bon Ton has just the right corset for the figure you have. And it will do more toward keeping the years young than all the wishing- moons in the world. Bon Ton Corsets appear always wherever fashion figures among graceful women of the world. For sixty-five years skill in corsetry has been an integral part of every model, made to fit every fashion, figure, and purse. Please note particularly the new Bon Ton Brassiere Cor-Set which provides a flexible boned corset with a brassiere which cannot slip, slide, or ride, yet may be detached for laundering. Sold by thousands of Stores and Specialty Shops ROYAL WORCESTER CORSET Co. WORCESTER, MASS. CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO NEW YORK Also Makers of Brassieres and Bandeaux LN RS LLL TL TTS SEEN ON (Continued ** THE ENCHANTED APRIL” T is no easy task to be restrained about “The Enchanted April.” A charming book, by “Elizabeth,” with an idea possessing fascinating stage possi- bilities, it has been dramatized by Kane Campbell with a paste-pot and a pair of shears. A scene, a hiatus, an- other scene—that is the method. And the result is desultory. The piece has been brought to the Morosco Theatre with an exceptional cast; the settings provided by Sheldon K. Viele are lovely. Everything, it seems, has been done for it except to make it into a play. And yet it had been tried out several times, I am told; ample oppor- tunity had been provided to detect its faults, to “fix” them, to rebuild, to bind. But, if it had opened “cold,” it could not be more scrappy. Alison Skipworth, as the dowager of to-day still living in the time of the Dear Queen, who goes to Italy “to remember,” is delicious. Hers is a unique comic talent. Helen Gahagan, the Lady Caroline Dester, who joins the group to get away from things, especially men, is not so successful. Her touch is a little heavy, she emo- tionalizes overmuch, she has an unfor- tunate habit of playing a scene as though no one else were concerned. Elisabeth Risdon makes Lotty Wilkins a most amusing person. Merle Mad- dern extracts whatever there is to ex- tract from a meagre rdle. Hugh Hunt- ley is a handsome hero, and Herbert Yost, as always, a truly funny low comedian. The two Italian servants, John Ravold and Adelina Roattino, are very good indeed. Their job is to be atmosphere, and they are all that and more. *“*THE FAMILY UPSTAIRS” AM H. HARRIS inaugurates his season with “The Family Up- stairs,” a gentle comedy by Harry Delf. It tells the story of the family of a street-car inspector, especially of the mother who is so anxious to get ber daughter married that she almost breaks up a match with an eligible young man. Mr. Delf has observed the details of his people’s life closely —a family of the lower middle class that lives in an apartment one step removed from a tenement. In fact, he has observed the details somewhat too closely; they clutter the play at times. The first act moves along pleasantly —you are introduced to the hard- working, hard, and continuously talk- ing mother, to her youngest child who doesn’t want to practise piano, to the son who has red hair and hopes to be a politician when he grows up, to the father, convinced that he is master in. his own house, to the oldest child, a stenographer, twenty-one and not only unmarried, but unsought. Mrs. Heller does not conceal her fear that Louise will “get left,’ and, when she learns that a young man is calling that very evening, she loses her head. Charles Grant arrives. Mrs. Heller over- whelms him with attentions, asks about his position and his prospects, lets him know not too adroitly that she considers his intentions serious, and succeeds in humiliating Louise and astonishing Charles. In the second act, her anxiety to force things breaks them off. And, in the third, everything is patched up satisfactorily. The play does not hold up very well after the first act. The author has overstressed almost to burlesque, and he repeats himself tiresomely. None the less, “The Family Upstairs” sup- VOGU; THE STAGI from page 91) plies a pleasant evening, such an ey. ning as “The Show-Off” would fy, nish if the Show-Off himself we, omitted from the play. “SPRING FEVER” PRING FEVER” distressed y. more than any play I have gem in a long, long while. I have no ob. jection to the Horatio Alger story, no, to the mixing up of comedy with th silliest farce tricks, nor to half a evening of practically unrelieved jp. struction in golf (“Spring Fever” is ty golf what Foster is to bridge), no even to a comedy that begins at ,; quarter of nine, has three long entr. actes, and ends not much later tha half-past ten. Indeed, the brevity of “Spring Fever” is its chief asset. By I do object to the author having idea of the people he writes about not even of what are to them manney and sportsmanship. And I have a old-fashioned prejudice against being asked to consider as human a heroin who could not conceivably exist, anj of being told that a likable youy man falling in the arms of a ment and spiritual prostitute is a happy consummation. Vincent Lawrence pos sibly said to himself: “It is time | wrote another play. What shall | write about? Well, golf is a populx subject. And audiences have alway loved the poor boy who succeek But in what shall he succeed? Golf! Yes, but in love also. All right, 4 poor boy is an expert golfer. He falk in love. Where is the conflict? Oh yes. Although he is a champion, lov upsets his game, and the girl—a fan- throws him over. No. That won't do for if she loves him for his golf alon —her social set throws him over—I'y got it—the poor boy in the millionaire’ club! It never fails. Snobbery! But the girl sticks. No. If she does that I won’t have a third act. I have it! She and her social set reject him a the end of the second act, and then she comes to him, humble, repentant, Th clinch! Great!” Something like that, it would seem from the result, was the way Mr. Lav- rence evolved his play. But when lt came to work it out—or perhaps no until he came to try it out—, he dix covered that it required ‘“strengthen- ing” here and there. So he made the members of the exclusive golf-club not only unmitigated snobs (the reguli ten-cent novel and “movie” conception of all “society”), but rotten sports, a well. They eject him from the club- house, the girl gives him the “raz” Then comes a “twist.” They are ir formed that he is worth eighteen mil lion dollars! Presto! They fawn up on him, the girl marries him. Comé the last act. A hotel bedroom, a bed, the newly wedded pair. He tells het he is not the possessor of eightetl million dollars or even of one dollat More twists. She would leave hi she wouldn’t, she would, The ligh are switched off at her request. Wha is she doing in the darkness? She o ders the lights on—we see her in be awaiting him. It is really worse than such a synop sis indicates. James Rennie is 2 sy™ pathetic golf champion. “OH! MAMA” HE rest of this chronicle is “from the French.” Alice Brady, afte! a prolonged absence from the Ne York stage, is appearing at the Play house in a “Palais Royal Farce Com dy,” entitled for our delectation “Oh (Continued on page 135) , yctob SPR SORE ag i \ x a> Rude sil Copyright 1928

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IGUE G k kena ould fur. self Were > ssed me have seep e no ob Story, nor with th half an ieved ip. ver’’ is ty Ige), nor mins ata mg entr. ater than yrevity of sset. By laving no 3 about~ | Manner have an nst being a heroin >xist, and le young a mental a happy rence pow is time | - shall | a popular ye always succeeds, d? Golf right, A He fal ict? Oh pion, lov —a fan— won't do golf alone »ver—I've llionaire’s ery! But does that, have it! *t him a 1 then she tant, The yuld seem Mr. Lavw- when lhe rhaps no -, he dix rengthen- made the F-club not e regular conception sports, as the club- he “raz” y are il- 1teen mil fawn up 1. Come m, a bed, - tells her eighteet ne dollar. save him, “he igh’ st. Wha She or er in bed | a synop- is a sym . is “from dy, afte the Play ‘ce Come ion “Ob 138) yctober D. B lie Pa

BARE ESN ee y) \Pe Sea hatte eac bree 4 oth ee ete)

yi . simplicity of line give youthful feeling to this street coat Autumn leaf shades warmly plaid the sturdy tweed which fashions this side draped sport coat this flared dress ccat Champagne-toned suede cloth combined with natural kit fox give unusuai richness to

Hart Schaffner © Marx women’s coats are smart everywhere Wherever the smart world travels you see these fine coats Women wear them for golfing, motoring, hik- ing, traveling and formal occasions Pliant suede cloths and rich bloom-surfaced fabrics have the fire and glow of rare jewels Sturdy Scotch tweeds, Crombies and Shetlands show the newest patterns in three-stripe overplaids, rag rug weaves, backgammon squares~countless others You'd expect “imported” prices with coats as carefully made , as thesebut you'll find them with reasonable markings Hart Schaf, CHICAGO Copyright 1925 Hart Schaffner & Marx '

‘ner (F Marx NEW YORK

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“She * * * placed a little mirror inside her mouth, to look behind her teeth.” Try it yourself! Look especially, behind your lower front teeth. You, too, may be surprised at what you see. She thought her teeth were clean Her pride in their beauty was perfectly natural Then an unpleasant discovery ing glass and placed a little mirror inside her mouth, to look behind her teeth. Horror! At the gumline she saw a suspicious gray-white deposit. Tartar. Here and there were small dark stains; and the spaces between the teeth had a discolored look. She must go to her dentist. A brief examination, then the an- nouncement: “Four cavities. A considerable amount of tartar.” “Must be my own fault, I sup- pose,” she said. “Why, No,” was the answer. You take better care of your teeth than most of my patients. The trouble is, people don’t realize how far they are from really cleansing the parts far back and the spaces between the teeth. Then they are surprised when troubles develop!” “But how can a person get at such places?” she insisted. “‘Good- ness knows I try hard enough!” “You’d find a liquid cleanser would be a great help,” the dentist suggested, “‘for it will reach the inaccessible places as readily as the visible outer surfaces. Lately I have been testing such a prepara- Sin: sat down before her look- tion— the first real dentifrice in liquid form that I ever heard of— not a mere antiseptic wash but an efficient tooth cleanser. If you would use it regularly, you’d soon be aware of the benefit.” That is how she came to use Mu- Sol-Dent. Discovered at Mellon Institute, University of Pittsburgh, after ex- perts had tried for thirty years to find an “efficient solvent of mucin” —certified as such by this institu- tion—Mu-Sol-Dent cleanses teeth in a new scientific way. It dis- solves the sticky mucin film from the surfaces of the teeth. Thus is removed the medium in which decay germs breed and in which are built up tartar crusts, to cause irritation and _ pyorrhea. Actual, practical experience, borne out by the willing testimonials of 4,000 dentists, shows that Mu- Sol-Dent does thus actually pre- vent both decay and tartar. Mu-Sol-Dent is, moreover, a gargle and mouth wash of un- equalled healing qualities. It does the work of a tooth paste, gargle, and antiseptic wash combined, in a safer, easier, more effective way. At all leading drug stores. Get a bottle today, or send us 10 cents postage, and a generous sample bottle will be sent you. The V. B. Corporation 916- V Forbes Street, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

cERT! FICATE & DISCOVE RY THE MELLON INSFITUTE of INDUSTRIAL RESEARCH PITTSBURGH, PA. Certifies that C.C. VocT, A.M. Ph.D. an Industrial Sellow at the Institute,discovered and perfected the = "hi mula of “MU-SOL-DENT” which is chemically an etficient solvent of mucin plaques.

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VOGU, Sk ie fact thy manholes jp are Covers) star-shape TS sent p ne a Silvey the hand ed proper) e Star Lin. sent me, es engrave) bargains jy and h 0ked in. this litt) Oo buy anj Ouse in th OUSE come sly into the g to mak as the old la, that has M going ty wer globes ts and hay in my hall. in to plan, o hitch our .GE emphasis AXI” even plays The Kis EF Maurice ber’s “L’. ” by Clif is a co can one ; or that?” dry, every Written speed, it ine of ac. ding rik, iety, He freshly ur in his a spark. Williams caricature tre Litter ly to look e Graham ful. the same > “Spring a Taxi.” ne mal, ave done latter 9 [. Woods, | for pro arvel al f human ad's cash be that Taxi,” be and, it ired his de October 15, 1925 Its CARESSING WARMTH ITS FLATTERING GRACE asoure unending satisfaction AAMONG the exotic negligées of the new mode none are more popular than luxuri- ous coats with silken pajamas. A coat of Waterside completed with trousers of the most modern of prints to match its facings, makes the smartest of lounging costumes. 139 ee | oe . 29600008000 00080K4 ,seoenern & Bho 999 0 eho9Kn HNN 65005e0000 10D: shh ) c Gy Te LA HE shimmering colors that beguile you into a care-free mood, the lux- urious texture that lures you to relax— they are so necessary for your lounging robes! You'll find exquisite boudoir shades in Waterside Corduroy—suggesting de- liciously feminine touches o; ostrich or satin or lace! And there are Waterside’s more brilliant colors for the new exotic pajama negligée! Supple, rich, softly draping— Water- side has a charming manner all its own of clinging gently to graceful curves, of tactfully masking sharp angles. Its lus- For the smart combination of coat and dress Waterside offers beautiful somber shades with the lustrous richness of pile and texture to give the smart lines you require. WITH its wide range of colors to clothe every mood, Waterside answers every neg- ligée problem. For the comfortable dress- ing gown with its simple lines and clever trimmings no fabric combines beauty and practicability in so delightful a way. trous pile with soft shadows melting into its velvety texture is irresistibly flatter- ing! Waterside Corduroy is so luxurious, so colorful and so moderate in price that women are using it both indoors and out. And they are as practical as they are smart, those frocks for street or sport, for Waterside wears wonderfully, tub- bing or cleaning like new. You will find Waterside Corduroy in all the better department stores—the same de- lightful Waterside great couturiers have used —the same luxurious corduroy that leading negligée designers choose for their smartest models. Howlett & Hockmeyer Co., Fifth Avenue at 26th Street, New York. (UATERSIDE CORDUROY

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DEL MONTE-HICKEY SPORTWEAR Lanvin... combining leather. and softest Cashmere gives to this masterptece the Spirit of Sport. At your Favorite Shop-! DEL MONTE-HICKEY 246 West 381TH STREET, New York A great drum-shaped hat of satin or taffeta, often trimmed with feathers, was a favourite with many eighteenth-century ladies The problem presented by the elaborate Georgian coif- fures was solved success- fully by wide flat-brimmed hats trimmed with ribbon THE GEORGIAN MODE (Continued from page 85) wigs were taking its place. Lord Boling- broke, it will be remembered, had angered the good Queen Anne by dar- ing to appear in her presence in one of these less formal wigs. The reign of the wig was, however, by no means over. In its simpler forms, the wig was universally worn throughout the cen- tury, and even the short oiled locks of the early nineteenth century were fre- quently wigs, partly, no doubt, because many generations of the wearing of great wigs had made baldness a com- mun affliction. Of endless variety were the wigs of the eighteenth century, though special favour was accorded to the Ramillies wig with its braided queue, which came in during the reign of Queen Anne, and to the wig with braided queue and two or three large stiff curls over each ear, which is characteristic of colonial days. EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY WIGS Something of the diversity of these eighteenth-century wigs may be guessed from the advertisement of one Mon- sieur de la Papillon, admirably named, who states in the Grand Magazine in 1760 that, he “fabricates all kinds of perukes for churchmen, lawyers, phy- sicians, military, mercantile, and coun- try gentlemen, in a new, exquisite, and curious taste. As, for example, to ecclesiastical perukes he gives a certain demure, sanctified air; he confers on the tie wigs of the law an appearance of great sagacity and deep penetration ; on those of the faculty of physick he casts a solemnity and gravity that seem equal to the profoundest knowledge. His military smarts are mounted in a curious manner quite unknown to every artist but himself. He throws into them what he calls the animating buckle, which gives the wearer a most war- like fierceness. He has likewise invented a species of Major or Brigadier for the better sort of citizens and tradesmen, which, by adding a tail to them that may be taken off and put on at pleasure, serves extremely well when they do duty in the militia. He also flatters himself on hitting the taste of country gentlemen and fox-hunters by his short- cut bobs of nine hairs of a side. For young gentlemen of the law who are not troubled with much practice, he has mounted a peruke, the legs of which may be put into a smart bag during the time of vacation and which in term time may be restored to its pristine form. For such as love to save their cash, he will have perukes made of calves’ tails, which he engages will last a long time. He has by long study and labour discovered and invented a com- modious machine, called the night-bas- ket, by which ladies and gentlemen may have their heads dressed while they divert themselves at cards without loss of time. He has an admirable secret to colour all kinds of hair on the head, and give to it any tint the wearer pleases.” POWDERS AND POMADES Whatever their form, these wigs of such magic powers continued to be powdered until 1795, when Pitt levied on powder the tax which is often credited with having led to its aban- donment. It is probable, however, that Pitt’s tax—when had the cost of a thing made it unfashionable ?—had far less to do with the vanishing of powder from the English mode than had the French Revolution, which placed pow- der under the ban laid on all symbols of the old aristocracy. Contrary to the general impression, these powders were not_ invariably white, though most usually so. They might match the colours of the wigs, which were brown, black, grey, white flaxen, or golden, as suited the mood 0 the wearer at the moment. That prej- udice against red hair which has only recently turned to admiration, was in full force, and, about 1775, golden hair —apparently for the first and only time in history—suffered under the same disfavour. Black powder was made of coal dust or dry Japan ink and ivory-black, while white was mixed with flour, starch, alabaster, or plaster of Paris, and both were held on by pomatums made of all sorts of sticky substances. To counteract the fre- quently unpleasant odour of these po- matums, the powders were highly pcr- fumed with musk, Civet, almond, ber gamot, ambergris, rose, violet, orange- flower, and many other fragrances. The wigs made no effort to imitate natural hair, but were as frankly an accessory as the hat itself, for to appear in ones natural hair was a distinct lapse from smartness. Even little children wore wigs, and the great white peruke— full-bottomed, one may be sure—which Queen Anne’s son, the little Duke o! Gloucester, wore as early as the age (Continued on page 142)

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GUE by aif - 2S $= ned bon DE ve their made of will last udy and l a con- ight-bas- nen may ile they 10ut loss le secret he head, wearer wigs of d to be tt levied is often ts aban- ver, that yf a thing far less powder had the ‘ed pow- symbols pression, avariably o. They he wigs, y, white mood o} hat pre}- has only , was in lden hair ind only nder the der was ypan_ ink ‘as mixed r plaster d on by of sticky the fre- these po- ghly per- ond, ber- . orange- nces. The e natural accessory - in one’s pse from ren wore peruke— e—which Duke ol he age of ?) October 15, 1925 Toilet Water: Mon Boudoir odour —$2. Face Powder that blends magically, in five true shades and many odours—$1.50. Nail Cray- ons—50c. Lipsticks, twoshades— $1.25. Rouges, four marvelous tones for four types—$1.50. Houbigant toilet luxuries are ob- tainable in your chosen Houbigant odour to complete a harmonizing toilette. Neght opens its thousand diamond eyes .. . and demands Perfection “EY day, even the smartest women may permit considerations of utility to dictate the impression they create. On the street, beauty is shrouded. In the boudoir, beauty relaxes. In the company of other women, beauty is alive but not alert. But when night opens its diamond eyes —life becomes purely decorative—ruth- lessly demanding. From the crown of her shining head to the toe of her twinkling slipper, the smart woman must be flaw- lessly perfect, if - judged by her own ex- acting standards—she is not to bea failure. For one hundred and fifty years, Houbigant has provided the smartest women in the world with the foundations of beauty — those velvet creams and fra- grant lotions whose use, day by day, keeps youth intact and triumphant—those rouges and powders and lipsticks that give to loveliness its accent, its vividness—those subtle perfumes, aloofand delicate—that catry messages across the secret places. Are you, too, looking for the first-and-last wordt complete beauty? Let Houbigant give it to you—in crystal flasks, in gay French boxes and between the covers of that worldly-wise little French booklet, “Things Perfumes Whisper”, which will come to you on request. HOUBICANT HOUBIGANT, Inc., 16 W. 49th Street, New York PARIS HOUBIGANT, Lrp., 46 St. Alexandre Street, Montreal

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Fall Fashions Champion the New Step-In HE Parisian Corsetiere who designed the exquisite Perfolastic Step-In must have anticipated the tendencies of the smart Fail Mode, for here is a girdle creation that imparts the slight molding through the waist line that the new gowns demand. No laces or clasps—just step-in. A cream colored creation designed from the purest and finest planta- tion rubber—light—elastic—com- fortable. PERFORATED, too, like all Perfolastic models, to insure air Sample of the Chree se oth bro 225 West 57th Street, New York City PERFOLASTIC, Inc. ° and health for the skin. Positively will not tear, rip or split, thanks to its marvelous quality. Featured by the smartest shops as the authentic girdle for the new silhouettes, oyun rubber and a chure on written request. MODELS: Step-In (New); Clasp-Around; Front and Back Lace; Bathing and Sport Model; Brassiere; Diaphragm Vanisher; Abdominal Belt PERFOLASTIC Y &N T bo Rubber Girdle

E-3 SSS OOO OOo

VOGUE THE GEORGIAN MODE (Continued from page 140) seven, had doubtless its own share in the developing of the fatal delicacy of his constitution. In the feminine mode, the coiffures of eighteenth-century England followed closely the rise and fall of their pro- totypes in France. During the reigns of George I. and George II., from 1714 to 1760, they adapted the simple coif- fures sponsored by Madame de Pompa- dour and other beauties of the court of Louis XV. The hair was brushed well back from the forehead, with the slight wave and slight roll character- istic of the Pompadour coiffure, but the English adaptation was much less formal than the French original, and soft waves of hair usually fell in art- less fashion at the sides, covering the ears, which are never covered in the French coiffures of the day, while a small, light, ruffled cap of lace, equally unknown to the French mode, often rested lightly on the crown of the head, well back from the forehead. By the time of George II., this little cap had grown considerably, developing ends which tied under the chin and gave it the air of a small, light hood covering nearly all of the hair and made of lace or sheer muslins. Sometimes, the ends crossed under the chin and continued around to fasten in long ends. This type of cap was known as a mob cap or a Ranelagh, from the frequency with which it was to be seen at the Ranelagh gardens. It is said to have originated from the silk kerchief of the market- women. With the reign of George III.—King of England during the latter years of Louis XV., the reign of Louis XVL., the period of the French Revolution, and the Napoleonic era—came the fem- inine coiffures most generally recog- nized as characteristic of the eighteenth century in England, the massive curled and powdered, feathered and ribboned structures that reflected the extrava- gance of Marie Antoinette and the in- genuity of that famous “modiste to the Queen,” Rose Bertin. In these high coiffures, the Englishwomen of fashion had a marked preference for the large round curls pinned at either side, while two or three ends of hair arranged in similar great curls fell on the shoulders, and, in general, they modified and adapted the French fashion. The por- traits of Gainsborough, Reynolds, and the other eighteenth-century masters show countless charming and individual adaptations of this curled coiffure. EXTREME FASHIONS Extreme fashions also found place in the English mode, despite the warmly expressed disapproval of the serious- minded. There are old prints of the day which show the fashionable coiffeur climbing on a ladder to add the finish- ing touches to the mountain of his creation, while the feathers and ribbons of France were mere bagatelle in com- parison with some of the coiffure orna- ments in favour in England. Even the post-chaise, a new means of transpor- tation in those days, was commemorated in one of these stupendous coiffure ornaments, “Those heads which are not able to bear a coach and six,” says a chronicler of modes “(for vehicles of this sort are very apt to crack the brain), so far act consistently as to make use of a post- chariot, or single-horse chaise with a beau perching in the middle. The vehicle itself was constructed of gold threads, and was drawn by six dapple- greys of blown glass, with a coachman, postilion, and gentleman within, of the same brittle manufacture.” With these towering coiffures, the English beauty continued to exhibit the same penchant for caps, and the caps were of even more vast propor- tions than the coiffures, which they often covered almost completely. Deli- cate laces, gauze, net—especially 4 spotted net—, and muslin were favour. ite materials for these caps, which were usually tied about with ribbons. A type highly approved was a great bag- like cap of soft white stuff drawn lightly over the coiffure and concealing all of it except a diminutive triangle above the forehead. This cap passed over the top of the head, coming wel down on the back of the neck, and came around to cover the ears completely, framing the face with a ruffled lace edge which ran up either side of the pointed opening to the tip of the point a few inches above the forehead, the only glimpse allowed of the hair. Low on the cap, a broad band of ribbon, preferably blue, was drawn about the back of the cap and brought up to tie in a bow just above the top of the pointed opening, while above it cap and coiffure stretched skyward. A deyvel- opment of this cap was that sometimes known as Queen Charlotte’s (the wife of George III.) cap. In this, the cap was opened at the back and fell in soft amplitude on the shoulders; it was laid lightly over the hair, showing much more of it, and was edged about the front with a fluted quilling of lace or muslin. The ribbon, in this case, held the soft and full, draped crown, which was smartest when of spotted lace. It should be remembered, however, that these are only two out of countless types, for the modiste was a person of high importance in the late eighteenth century, and an original cap in those days was as highly prized as an original hat may be to-day. PICTURESQUE MILLINERY Nor was the beauty of the eighteenth century in England without a pretty taste in hats. The Gainsborough hat remains to-day a standard of perfection in the matter of brim-lines and of the use of ostrich plumes. The mode has yet to create a coiffure more completely charming than that of the lovely Duch- ess painted by Gainsborough as she stands with her left arm resting on the pedestal of a great column, while on her head is a little shape with upturned brim embroidered with pearls, set at a decided angle on hair dressed moder- ately high and falling in soft ringlets on the back of the neck. Covering all but the bit of upturned brim, a cloud of ostrich plumes rises high at the left and at the right falls low against the perfect curve of the cheek. Many of these hats, like the smartest of hats to-day, came directly from Paris, but others equally charming were made in London by skilled fingers which had, perhaps, received their train- ing in Paris. It was, of course, no easy problem to find hats which could be worn over the high coiffures of the day, but the problem was solved with no in- considerable success in the wide-brim- med Gainsborough hats, in such smal- ler shapes as that described above, «nd in the flat hats of leghorn straw, which were known as milkmaid hats, with low round crowns wreathed with rib- bons or flowers and brims tilted up sharply at the back. There was <lso that immensity of satin or tafieta known as the calash, a great drum shape faced about. with lace or frilling, framing the face in its circle, while it was kept from floating away by a cord (Continued on page 144) O Vv if9 Be latest silks ¢ of car “ H own g happe store lessne: “ W

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, the chibit 1 the opor- they Deli- ly a vour- were s. A bag- lrawn ~aling langle assed r Well [came letely, | lace f the point 1, the Low bbon, It the to tie f the p and devel- times > wife le cap n soft S laid much it the ice or > held which ce. It , that intless son of teenth those riginal teenth pretty zh hat fection of the de has pletely Duch- as she on the on her turned et ata moder- ringlets ‘ing all 1 cloud the left nst the martest y from arming fingers ir train- no easy puld be the day, 1 no in- e-brim- h smal- ve, and r, which rs, with ith rib- Ited up vas also taffeta t drum frilling, while it ya cord ) October 15, 1925 MISS PICKFORD AS“LITTLE ANNIE ROONEY.” IN HER NEWEST PIC, TURE “LITTLE ANNIE ROONEY,” WHICH HAS JUST BEEN RELEASED, MISS PICKFORD ACHIEVES ONE OF MISS PICKFORD AS “DOROTHY VERNON OF HADDON HALL” From a photograph by Strauss-Peyton Studios, Ki MARY PICKFORD THE FINEST SCREEN CHARACTER- IZATIONS OF HER CAREER, sas City AND THE COSTUME THAT COULD “Before making ‘LittLE Annie Rooney,’ my latest picture, I did two costume plays, and the silks and satins I wore were a continuous source of care. “However, I knew from experience with my own gowns, that there is a remedy when accidents happen—that Lux dissolved in hot water will re- store dainty fabrics to their original state of spot- lessness. “When a costume is made of the only piece of sends. You can wear them as nonchalantly as the stoutest tweeds—those delicate pastel shades of flannel, the Balbriggan jersey that Chanel loves, the intriguing patterns that Rodier No need to “save” them just for the times when you want to look your loveliest. You wear them constantly even for the most strenuous round on the links, for set after set on the courts. NOT BE DUPLICATED silk of its kind in Los Angeles and a dozen scenes have been made showing that costume, an acci- dent to it brings a difficult and often costly situa- tion. Such an occasion came to my attention recently. “A costume had been used in a very expensive picture, when a child rubbed a dirty little hand on my dress. Consternation reigned. The director saw visions of retakes costing thousands of dollars if the costume could not be duplicated. “A lady who was standing nearby approached and said: ‘I’m so very, very sorry! Let me take the dress and see what can be done about it.’ She took the gown and in the course of time returned it as good as new. “She explained that Lux had accomplished the result. ‘But why were you so sorry?’ she was asked. “Why, you see it was my little girl that soiled it,’ she explained.” eMary Pickford. The new sports clothes of Balbriggan and Flannel~ es ae Keep them soft, colorful and unshrunken this way What if they do need freshening after the game is over? Lux takes care of that. Toss them into a bowl of feathery Lux suds and wash them as you do your silk vests and stockings. Lux will not shrink or mat the soft wool fibres. They come forth from their refreshing Lux bath clean and beautiful. Complete directions for washing woolens suc- cessfully are on the package. Lever Bros, Co., Cambridge, Mass.

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suit of SNOW WHITE FUR you can knit from this wonderful yarn ~ MAGINE yarn as fluffy and soft I as the softest fur—yarn really made of the softest fur—and you have this wonderful new Furida. You can buy it in balls, just as vou have always bought ordinary wool yarn. You can knit it your- self into the fluffiest, fleeciest of garments—garments for babies and for their older brothers and sis- ters; sweaters and costume trim- mings for grown-ups- as well. There is no end of delightful things this wonderful new im- ported yarn can make. And what colors! It comes in twenty-eight lovely pastel shades. Furida made a sensation in Paris; in fact, in all France and England. Now it has captured this country by storm. Last year New York’s leading stores were featuring garments of this won- derful fleecy Furida yarn. And this year you can buy Furida of your own store, and make Furida garments in your own home. Charming gifts for children and grown-ups Furipa garments make the most adorable gifts for children and for adults. Birthday gifts, Christ- mas gifts, gifts for any time at all. Get out vour needles and 66 URIDA have some charming little gar- ments, or soft fluffy scarves, ready —all waiting the proper time to give them away. Only a few hours to make them IT REQUIRES but a little time to make Furida garments. Furida yarn is knit exactly as you knit any other wool. You fashion the fluffy gar- ments, then hold them to the fire. The warmth brings out their furri- ness until they look like real fur, and feel like thistledown. And these wonderful garments wash so easily. Just fluff them in soap suds. They are even prettier after they are laundered. Send for free instruction sheet on making this delightful child’s outfit WE WILL be glad to mail you a free instruction sheet containing full directions for making the three- piece Furida outfit illustrated above. Information includes amount of Furida needed, needles indicated, and full directions for knitting. Merely mail us the coupon below. If your dealer does not carry Furida in all of its twenty-eight beautiful pastel shades, write to us for a color chart and for prices. We will send the yarn directly to you. Derwent Mills, Ltd., London and Matlock, England, American Repre-_ sentatives: Brucks& Peyser, Dept. K1, 100 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 9 THE IMPORTED ANGORA FUR THAT KNITS LIKE WOOL—AND WASHES PERFECTLY FREE BRUCKS & PEYSER, Dept. K1, 100 Fifth Avenue, New York City. Please send me free instruction sheet for making Furida Send this Child’s Outfit No. 104. coupon for ‘i 7 Name instruction “ h et Ad ress ; seeacaises’ sheet. | SES PS Se ee OTT Toe THE GEORGIAN VOGUE MODE (Continued from page 142) attached to the middle of the front and fastened to the gown. The calash was stiffened to its drum-like shape by circles of whalebone, and its invention is credited to the lovely Duchess of Bedford. That due attention was given to the matter of millinery may be seen from this account by a contemporary, who reports that on a certain occasion he “saw only a few ladies dressed in the French taste. All the rest, decked in the finest manner with brocades, dia- monds, and lace, had no other head- dress but a ribband tied to their hair, over which they wore a flat hat adorned with a variety of ornaments. It re- quires much observation to be able to give a full account of the great effect produced by this hat. It affords the ladies who wear it that arch roguish air which the winged hat gives to Mercury; it animates their faces with a degree of vivacity which is not nat- ural to them.” FIRST ENGLISH VEILS Late in the century, the wearing of veils over the face made its first appear- ance in the English mode, probably re- placing the mask which had for so long been an essential part of the street cos- tume of the woman of fashion, though the eighteenth century had somewhat neglected it. These veils came but half way down the face and were of lace. One suspects that their place of origin was Venice, but, in England, they were usually of white Brussels lace. Their appearance was the signal for an imme- diate protest from the Lady’s Maga- zine of that gallant day: “Dear Ladies, have pity on us; and be assured that one peep at your fair faces is worth all the Brussels lace, notwithstanding the cobweb textures, that ever was imported.” The characteristic features of the feminine silhouette of the eighteenth century were the hoop and the slim, pointed bodice, which followed practi- cally the same variations as in France. The characteristic Louis XIV. hoop, puffing out at the back, gave place in the reign of George I. to the long, wide hoops, round or wide at the sides in the Spanish fashion, which were the feature of the mode at the court of Louis XV. Over them were worn, as a rule, the ample gowns of plain coloured satin in favour at the French court, accom- panied by the long, impossibly tight, pointed bodices, plain or elaborated with ribbon-laced stomachers. Later, these gowns opened over a petticoat and took to themselves the curving bands of quilling known as falbalas, the origin, no doubt, of the English fur- belows. Adopting the Watteau back, which was more ample in the English mode than in the French, this gown became the sacque, or sack, a great favourite both in England and in co- lonial America. In both countries, it was considered a garment of somewhat informal wear, beginning the transition to its modern réle as a négligée. The reign of George III. saw in the English mode the short hoops and the pannier puffs, the delicately striped and flow- ered silks, and the dainty cotton prints and muslins of the Louis XVI. mode. The hoop-skirt of the eighteenth century was not like the crinoline, an undergarment of canvas or crinoline. It was an outside petticoat spread by hoops of whalebone. This hoop-skirt was of round length and always cleared the floor—in the later periods, it was often of little more than ankle length—, but the gowns worn over it often had trains of considerable length, unless the petticoat was frankly short, when the back of the gown was usually looped up in drapery, after the manner of the French pelisse. This hoop-skirt or petti- coat was essentially the decorative fea- ture of the gown and was of rich mate- rials, often much elaborated with em- broidery, applications, or quilting in ornate patterns, which is a marked feature of eighteenth-century English and colonial modes. Beautiful damasks enriched with gold or silver embroidery and fringe were favourite materials for the hoop-petticoat, but they were also made, especially if the gown itself was of patterned material, of plain or quilted silks or satins. When the gown was of light or cotton material, the hoop-petticoat might be of chintz or of embroidered Holland linen. Even ermine was not too fine for the hoop. petticoat of state occasions. Perhaps, the point that would first attract the attention of a modern ob- server of these eighteenth-century cos- tumes would be the brilliance and vari- ety of the colours combined in a single costume. The petticoat would be of one colour and its embroidery of another— or even of two or three others. Over it would be a gown of a third colour, with stays, which were often a sort of stiffened bodice worn outside the gown, of a fourth colour. The decorative apron, which was a prominent feature of the mode in England and in the colonies, brought a fifth colour and might be embroidered in a sixth. When the fair wearer of this rainbow walked abroad, she would add a seventh colour, at least, in her hat and an eighth in her wrap. Not for her were delicate har- monies and creations in tones and shades of a single colour. Poiret pales beside this contemporary description of an eighteenth-century costume: A STRIKING COSTUME “Black silk petticoat with a red and white calico border, cherry coloured stays trimmed with blue and silver, a red and dove coloured damask gown flowered with large trees, a yellow satin apron trimmed with white Per- sian, and muslin head-cloths with crow- foot edging, double ruffles with fine edging, a black silk furbelowed scarf and a spotted hood.” The short hoop-skirt had far less popularity in decorous England than in dashing Spain or insouciant France, partly, no doubt, because the English figure is one which demands length of line for the best effect. Goldsmith has recorded in his Citizen of the World that, “As .a lady’s quality or fashion was once determined here by the cir- cumference of her hoop, both are now measured by the length of her tail. Women of moderate fortunes are con- tented with tails moderately long; but ladies of true taste and distinction set no bounds to their ambition in this particular. I am told that the Lady Mayoress, on days of ceremony, carries one longer than the bell-wether of Ban- tan, whose tail, you know, is trundled along in a wheel-barrow.” Similar evidence is offered by an economist of the day: “Nothing can be better calculated to increase the price of silk than the present manner of dressing. A lady’s train is not bought but at some expense, and after it has swept the public walks for a very few evenings is fit to be worn no longer; more silk must be bought in order to repair the breach, and some ladies of peculiar economy are thus found to patch their tails eight or ten times in 4 season.” (Continued on page 146) Greta claims of a wi trainin and Bz vividly thought use

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he of w- irf October 15, 1925 7’ & tT Hands a. eS HE world has long paid homage to beautiful hands. Poets have sung of their pink-tipped loveliness, their cool, aristocratic shapeliness. Today the world pays tribute also to capable, everyday hands that engage themselves with a nails. Greta Nissen, whose blonde beauty pro- claims her a daughter of Sweden, speaks out of a wide European experience: “In my early training at ihe various Schools of Pantomime and Ballet in Europe, I came to realize how vividly the hands may register every fleeting thought. To make them look their loveliest I use the splendid Cutex preparations.” thousand things, yet keep their enchanting love- liness of rosy tips and jewel-like, prettily shaped Everywhere women have learned to give their own hands the exquisite care that keeps them : beautiful. Not only in America, but in the aris- tocratic capitals of Europe, in the most sophisti- cated of the fashionable resorts, Cutex prepara- tions are more widely used than any other kind. RY this method favored by the smart women of two continents: First wash your hands in warm, soapy water and file the nails. Dip the orangestick in Cutex, twist a bit of cotton around theend,anddipin the bottle again. Gently aie NortHamM Warren: New York, Paris, London. END Joc for Introduc- S tory Set containing Cutex Cuticle Remover, Liquid and Powder Pol- NortHam WarREN, Dept. V-10, 114 West 17thSt.,N.Y. I enclose 10c in stamps or coin. Please send me Introductory Set. i eER UTE 145 cAlll over the world, brilliant women keep their hands beautiful with the same exquisite method. In the European capitals and fashion- able resorts, Cutex manicure prep- arations are more used than anv other kind. TO loosen the dead, dry skin that clings to the nail base. Pass the wet stick under the nail tips to clean and bleach them. What firm ovals of skin now framethenails! Whatcleantransparent tips! Smooth the least bit of Nail White under each nail tip. Buff the nails lightly with the delicately scented Cutex Powder Polish. Again wash your hands to remove traces of the ==> — Nail White and polish. J, Sgoend spread a drop of Cutex Liquid Polish smoothly over each nail. Its pink bril- liance adds agay touchof emphasisto your hands. With shapely nail rims, flawless tips, and rosy, gleaming nails, you will be amazed how charm- ing and expressive your hands become. Cutex Sets, from 35c to $5.00, wherever toilet goods are sold. Single items are 35c. Or send for Introductory Set. If you live in Canada, address Northam Warren, Dept.V-10,200 Mountain St., Montreal, Canada. . ishes, Cuticle Cream, brush, emery board, orange stick, cotton, and helpful booklet. Dora StroEvA, one of Russia’s most pic- turesque ballad singers, and well-known to American audiences, writes from Paris, the scene of her initial success: “In playing the guitar, the appearance of my hands is one of my first considerations and Cutex Liquid Polish a real friend in need.”

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Frigidaire Makes Entertaining a Greater Pleasure 190 f.0.b. Dayton,© Frigidaire is priced as low as $190 f. 0. b. Dayton. Thirty-two models meet the needs of every home. Any Frigidaire model may be purchased on con- venient terms. rig Made by (C3 Manufacturers Jo RIGIDAIRE is a wonderful aid to entertaining. Even the simplest re- freshments—salads or fruits—are fresher, crisper, colder, when served from a Frigid- aire electric refrigerator. Frigidaire will freeze delicious desserts for you, and keep them, perfect, frozen, until you are ready to serve them. Everything you serve will be fresh and delicious. Frigidaire means constant, dependable, economical refrigeration. It makes its owner entirely independent of outside ice supply— brings new convenience to the home— safeguards health—all at a cost usually less than was formerly paid for ice. It is entirely automatic in operation—starts itself, stops itself, requires practically no attention. Your present ice-box can be converted into a Frigidaire electric refrigerator, easily and at a very reasonable cost. Or you can buy a complete cabinet model of Frigidaire in the size which just meets your needs. There is a nation-wide organization of over 3,500 trained Frigidaire Representatives. The nearest one will gladly tell you how easily and inexpensively you can have Frigid- aire in your home. Or the coupon below will bring complete descriptive literature. DELCO-LIGHT COMPANY, Subsidiary of General Motors Corporation, Dept. S-14, Dayton, Ohio. Makers of Delco-Light Farm Electric Plants, Electric Pumps, Electric Washers and Frigidaire Electric Refrigerators cT OF GENERAL Mo pRODY To IY aire rild’s Largest ric Refrig rators Wenn venAnNNNT he Wo Elect er Delco-Light Company Dept. S-14, Dayton, Ohio Name Please send me your litera’ Address ture describing Frigidaire Elec- tric Refrigeration. VOGUE 1ea2 GEORGIAN NODE (Continued from page 144) The eighteenth-century mode knew even less than the mode of to-day of high collars, which are a strictly nine- teenth-century invention, unknown to earlier feminine modes, unless one con- siders the Elizabethan ruff as a high collar. The gowns of eighteenth-century England, even for outdoor wear, were cut away at the neck. For informal wear, they might be comparatively high in the back and cut in a moderately low, square décolletage in the front, but, for full dress, they were cut decidedly low in front and back, though the En- glish sense of propriety never coun- tenanced the extremes of French fash- ion in this matter, preferring discretion to distinction. A QUESTION OF TASTE This preference, manifested at many points in the eighteenth-century mode, gave rise to the charge—repeated so many times by writers of the day that one is constrained to grant that it must have had some foundation—that the Englishwomen were badly dressed. In his Tour to London, Monsieur Gros- ley states it with Gallic tact: “So sen- sible are the English ladies of their beauty that they neglect their dress, and are little solicitous about adorning their persons. A lady, when at home, gen- erally wears a deshabille suited to the economy of her home. If she happens to make her appearance in a morning in Saint James’s Park, it is in a short gown, a long white apron, and a hat, and she is attended by a waiting-maid as elegantly dressed as herself. At pub- lic assemblies, diamonds and lace adorn the sex, and then they make a dis- tinguished figure. The care of dressing, that of dressing the hair, above all, is observable only in a small number of ladies, who, thinking, no doubt, that they have occasion for it, have resolu- tion to go through all the operations of the hair-dresser. The country life led by these ladies during a great part of the year and the freedom which ac- companies that way of life make them continue an agreeable negligence in dress, which is never really displeas- ing.” It was, indeed, England which orig- inated the ideal of “beauty una- dorned,” even as it was an English poet of an earlier date who sang the praises of “a sweet disorder in the dress.” Such ideals were very far from those of France, especially in the period of the Louis, and account in large measure for the divergence between French and English modes in the eighteenth cen- tury. Sleeves varied little throughout this long period. They were almost uni- versally of elbow length, set in and fitted to the arm and finished with lace ruffles or with a soft white undersleeve just covering the elbow, leaving the arm bare to the elbow. To this fashion was due the extensive use of muffs, which grew larger as the century advanced, until they rivalled the yard-long muffs of the Directoire. In England, these muffs were usually all of feathers or all of fur, and they were, for some reason difficult to trace, not of the lovely and costly furs of an earlier day, but of such coarse, long-haired furs as bear and goat. For evening wear, muffs of white swan’s-down were of great distinction, and quite charming affairs they must have been. The eighteenth-century mode in England is notable for the introduction of a new type of feminine costume, the riding-habit fashioned on the man- nish lines still characterizing the correct apparel of the horsewoman of to-day, though its mannish lines at the present time are other than those which it adopted in the eighteenth century, when the genial Sir Roger de Coverley coms plained that he narrowly escaped call- ing a fair rider “sir” and wits heaped ridicule on the wearers of this trans- planted masculine mode. The ridicule, however, fell on deaf ears. This habit, consisting of a smartly tailored coat of dark blue cloth cut on the lines of the masculine coat of the day, opening over a white or even a scarlet vest, and worn with a plain dark skirt of moderate length and a gold-laced hat with feath- ers and fringe, soon attained high favour. Towards the end of the century, such costumes as this were worn even by women who never came nearer a horse than the cushioned seat of a post-chaise. It became the usual morn- ing costume, worn even to church, and may with justice be considered the pro- totype of the tailored costume for women. With powdered hair, rouge is an in- evitable accompaniment and the patch a natural sequence, so rouge and paint and patches enhance the charms of eighteenth-century belles. As Austin Dobson accurately put it in a later day, “The ladies of Saint James’s! They’re painted to the eyes; Their white it stays forever, Their red it never dies.” No enlightened science presided over the preparation of the cosmetics of these beauties of an earlier day, who applied with the bliss of ignorance white and red lead, bismuth, mercury, verdigris, and vermilion. The result was often a skin so sensitive that it could be washed only by that process on which modern beauty doctors pride themselves, by the application of creams. The beauty of more resisting complexion, however, was accustomed to wash her face with a concoction known as wash-balls and made of rice- flour, starch, and white lead, and the make-up included black for the eye- brows, rouge for the cheeks, lip-salve for the lips and pearl-powder for the neck and shoulders. Foreign soaps and perfumes, especially those of France, were in great demand, while simpler beauties made use of the domestic lav- ender-water and rose-water. Lard was the usual foundation of complexion creams, for the more delicate lanoline known to the earliest middle ages seems to have been forgotten, and the fruit and flower oils of to-day were apparently unknown. Manicures were of notable skill, and gloves of dogskin or of chicken skin were worn to whiten the hands and arms; while patches were worn, not only as decorations, but to mark the Whig or Tory sympa- thies of the wearer, since it was the fashion for women to take an interest in politics, FANS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY Fans were an important accessory of eighteenth-century English costume. Gainsborough’s beauties sometimes carry rather small fans of slightly curled ostrich plumes, but the more usual fans of the day were of delicately painted gauze mounted on jewelled sticks. They were carried on all occasions, and every woman of fashion possessed a large collection, from which she selected the fan appropriate to the occasion, a wise precaution, especially in the later years of the classic revival, when fans were painted with classic scenes and, as 4 wit of the day remarked, “‘a lady hardly (Continued on page 150)

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October 15, 1925 AD Ss 7 the y PSO e ~ se os yy EH ON ES ° The new “Renaissance” commands your admiration Ovr artists create beautiful designs to satisfy widely varying tastes. Now they have achieved a spirited and subtle effect— the new Renaissance in heavy solid silver. It will delight those who seek exquisiteness above everything else. Examine it closely—in some fine jeweler’s shop, where you may take the actual silver in your hand—and we believe the very rareness of its intricate pattern will decide you to choose it for your family, traditional silver. Use the famous Social Secretary Miss Diana Beningfield was, for many years, social secretary to The Viscountess Astor, Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, and other prominent society women, managing their large and important functions. She will be delighted to answer, personally, all questions on table etiquette and how to entertain charmingly. Write Miss Beningfield care R. Wallace & Sons Mfg. Co., Wallingford, Conn. Wallace Silver shown on this page Flower Centerpiece $90.00 each Candlesticks 58.00 pair Berry spoon in the new Renaissance pattern _ 9.00 each Teaspoons (not shown) in theRenaissancepattern 25.00 doz. DinnerForks (notshown)in theRenatssancepattern 46.00 daz. | LFF.

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EVER WAS THE SMART FOOT SMARTER—or mote important. AND WHEN IT RAINS? Last year it would have meant three or four paits of rubbers to fit all your shoes correctly —or—wet feet, a cold, that dragged-out feeling. THIS YEAR—LASTICS, the new rubber that is all things to all shoes, keeps your feet dry, your throat well, your vitality as it ought to be. One pair of Lastics fits your Oxfords, your brogues, your pumps, your sandals,—even your dancing slippers ! All toes look alike to the Lastic— all soles are the same. Unless you wear a very low heel—for which Thank heaven for the man who made a rubber that's good-looking there is a special Lastic—all your various heels fit into the heel of your obliging Lastic, and stay fitted, THREE TYPES OF LASTICS are made for the woman who likes a high storm rubber, the woman who wants a medium pump-cut rubber, and the woman who loves a slip-on sandal. The slip-on is called a Snug—and you never saw anything more like a patent leather glove! Keep a pair of Snugs at your downtown club, at the country club, in your office desk if you’re a busi- ness woman. Saves shoes —doctor’s bills—every- body’s temper all round, for who loves you when you sniffle? .... Thank heaven for the man who made a rubber that’s good-looking—at last —and one that really fits! Remember to ask for Hood Lastics, not rubbers Rubber Footwear es Rubber Footwear - Canvas Footwear - Rubber Heels and Soles - Pneumatic and Solid Tires - Rubber Specialties

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HESE are among the most beautiful playing cards ever produced by the famous house of Thomas De La Rue & Co., Limited, card makers by appoint- ment to His Majesty, King George V and to His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales. The De La Rue cards are manu- factured by a special process which makes them wear at least three times as long as ordinary cards. They resist moisture, do not soil easily and retain their snap for a long time. Those illustrated may be obtained at the better shops as follows: DP-24 $1.75 | DM-33 $2.25 DP-28 $1.75 | DM-34 $2.25 DP-27 $1.75 B -59 $1.50 If your dealer has not obtained his supply, we will gladly send you the names of those nearest you who have De La Rue cards, or upon receipt of your remit- tance, will fill your order direct. SPECIAL NOTE: The holiday de- mand for De La Rue cards is always greater than the supply. Since they are imported and in a limited quantity, may we suggest that you arrange early with your dealer for your gift requirements. BY APPOINTMENT

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* - Youth is a flame on the wings of dawn— : : = ’ ia | Youth is a dance on a rose-strewn lawn. ie a “torino he : Youth’s Own Perfume Youth on airy feet among the roses— elusive, strange, new fragrance of the dawn of life and love — Fétiche ... In Essence, Eau de Toilette, Eau Végétale, Poudre de Riz, Twin Compacte, Poudre de Talc, Poudre 4 Sachet, Savon, Sels pour Bains (Bath Salts), Poudre de Toilette (Bath Powder), Crayon pour les Lévres (Lip Stick). L. T. Piver, Inc., At the better drug stores and toilet counters —to New Yor NYS get acquainted, send the coupon. I am sending 25c in stamps — please send me a “‘Get Acquainted” Package of Fétiche, containing bottle of Perfume, Envelope of Sachet, Box of Face Powder Basanée (Sun Tan), the delightful new day-shade, and a copy of ““Three Centuries me) | V — ‘By of Beauty Secrets.” ° ° Name PARIS, FRANCE (Fondée en 1774) . Creators of World Renowned Parfums of Personality and Poudres de Luxe CG ccenccrertmnamacineettenapeeriermsciicaseniebiemmanaeaere © 1925 L. T. PIVER, Inc Street

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, Inc October 15, 1925 CON 6) 3 \ it : “ tt Vig F The NAVARRE Chamber Suite If YouR HOME | were used in the MOVIES UPPOSE, for a moment, that Griffith wanted to use your home for a scene in one of his great screen dramas—a trim and artistic little setting typical of the smart American home. Would it stand the test? Or would his all-appraising eye ob- ject to the style and appearance of your furniture? The movies have already done much to popularize good clothes, good motor cars, good manners and artistic home interiors. More than one charming crea- tion of the Berkey & Gay shops has played an unheralded but effective role in the finer film productions of New York and Hollywood. Life cannot be a zestful and romantic adventure—either in the movies or outside — if the intimate objects that surround us are drab and commonplace. Look at your furniture thru the eyes of your guests and see if it properly reflects your taste, your means and your position in the social life around you. If not, you are overlooking one of life’s rarest privileges—the joy and pride of living and en- tertaining in an atmosphere of refinement and beauty. A privilege, too, that means much less expense than many people seem to believe, as even furniture bearing the coveted shop mark of Berkey & Gay is now well within the reach of the average income. atte THIS SHOP MARK IS (ay IT IS THE CUSTOMERS INSET IN EVERY BERKEY sO We. PROTECTION WHEN BUYING G GAY PRODUCTION PRT, AND HIS PRIDE EVER AFTER. WRITE FOR= An interesting booklet on furniture construction. Sent for the asking, together with the name of your near- est Berkey & Gay dealer. | oy In fact, Berkey & Gay suites are now available at prices ranging all the way from $300 to $6000. The NAVARRE suite shown above is typical of these new moderately priced creations— every one of them fashioned in rare and unusual woods, luxuri- ously finished, and all revealing the latest and most fashionable tendencies in furniture design and decoration. Ask your local Berkey & Gay dealer to assist you in the selec- tion of pieces which will graci- ously harmonize with the decora- tive scheme of your own home. * eK K K The Berkey & Gay Furniture Company, Grand Rapids, Michigan, will be glad to send you an interesting booklet, ‘Some of the Things That Make Furniture Values,” briefly pointing out sixteen important features to consider in selecting quality furniture. BERKEY & GAY FURNITURE CoO. b Wholesale Showroom; 115 W. 40th St., New York City Associated Companies WALLACE Furniture Co. « Granp Rapids UPHOLSTERING Co-0 YO GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN

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Have you experienced the two bouquets—exotic MON CHERI and subtle MODA? Madame Ga- bila has also the true floral odeurs, among them Jasmin and Ambre. ‘Not every woman can appreciate these per- fumes — not every shop can provide them .... but a few women of truly cultivated perceptions insist on the genuine loveli- ness of bouquet that only Paris and Madame Gabilla can create. ....anda few definitely smart shops find this limited class of patronesses well worth their attention, and can keep available to them a generous supply of Les Parfumes de Gabilla. Made with French grape alcohol, aged the same as vintage wines, Gabilla perfumes will give you a new appreci- ation of what genuine French perfume really means. “Moda” = American Offices for Gabilla Perfumes EVERETT-GOULD, Inc. 116 W. 39th Street New York City THE GEORGIAN VOGUE MODE (Continued from page 146) knew whether to blush before or behind her fan.” The last decade of the eighteenth century brought the French Revolution, and with it the complete collapse of the hoop and the powdered coiffures, re- flected almost immediately in London, whither fled Rose Bertin and her as- sistants, to create the slim, high-waisted gowns often erroneously described as of English origin. The extreme fashions of the period in France found little favour in London, but the slim, high- waisted silhouette was adopted at once, though hoops remained for some time a feature of Court costume. Classic ideals prevailed, and the gowns became of a studied simplicity, eliminating ruffles and ornamentation and defining the figure, though the English beauty never carried her devotion to classic costume to the extent of omitting the petticoat and the chemise and leaving only a sheer frock between herself and the world. DEMURE COSTUMES White muslin, however, became the order of the day and was worn with wide sashes of ribbon by both young and old. Arms and neck were bare, and wraps were of a lightness wholly un- suited to the English climate. A fash- ionable walking costume for December in 1799 is described as consisting of a white muslin dress, a pink silk wrap covered with black crépe and trimmed with black lace, a beribboned hat, and a large muff of brown bear, the one touch of winter. The spencers derived from the masculine garment invented by the English lord of that name were of the same form as those worn in France, very short coats just covering the bust and having long, close sleeves. There were also silk pelisses and black velvet cloaks, fur-trimmed _ tippets hardly as large as the stoles of to-day, and a certain “Barcelona handkerchief,” wadded and fur trimmed, but about the size of a fichu. A little later, the cashmere shawl had a certain vogue in England, though never one comparable to that which it enjoyed in France dur- ing the Empire. Slippers of satin, heel- less and of the cothurn or sandal type, were worn with evening costume, while, for daytime wear, there were similar shoes of morocco leather. Both were gay in colour and light in weight, as unsuited to walking as the gowns were to winter weather. The classic coiffure succeeded the high, powdered hair, but such extreme modes as the coiffure a la Titus and the coiffure a l’ huile antique appealed only to followers of extreme modes in England. The modes which accompanied the clouded cane and the powdered wig of the beau of the eighteenth century are notable, not only for their own magnifi- cence, but by virtue of the fact that they are the last flash of masculine sumptuousness, which vanished com- pletely and apparently forever in the tempest of the French Revolution. The reign of the last of the beaux, it is true, falls in the reign of George IV. well into the nineteenth century, but Beau Brum- mel, who established the order of the bath in so literal a sense in England, deserves rather to be considered the first of distinguished gentlemen than the last of the beaux, so widely did his costume of “exquisite propriety” differ from the brilliant raiment of these earlier leaders of the masculine mode. In masculine as in feminine fashions, the reign of George I. finds the influ- ence of the Louis XIV. mode still strong in England. The coat of the George I. beau is a direct derivation from the coat of Louis XIV., but it is a derivation, not a copy. The most striking of the differences between the two is the ex- aggeration in the English coat of the nip in at the waist and the flare of the skirts. This coat was usually worn fastened by one or two buttons at the waist and open above and below over a waistcoat of the same length as the coat. Pleated sections set in on either hip often emphasized the flare of tiie coat skirts. By the time of George I]., these coats were usually worn open «il! the way down, and the pleated sections had given way to a decided flare in tlie cut of the coat itself, which was he'd out by wire supports, so that Steele, writing in the guise of a feminine cor- respondent to the Spectator, says, “The skirts of your fashionable coat form as large a circumference as our petticoat. As these are set out with whalebone, so are those with wire, to in- crease and sustain the bunch of folds that hangs down on each side.” These coats were of rich material and gay colour and were elaborated with much gold embroidery, especially in the earlier reign. The sleeve was somewhat closer in cut than that of the Louis XIV. coat, but retained the wide cuff, which, in the days of George II. often reached nearly to the elbow. It was rather short, and a lace frill or a white undersleeve appeared below it. It had as yet no collar, though it some- times turned back in a suggestion of revers, showing the white steinkirk or the newer black satin cravat, which was frequently an extension from the black satin bow that tied the queue of the wig in back. Rather close black satin breeches were usually worn with these coats, and the stockings were drawn up over them and rolled loosely above the knee, so that only a glimpse of the black satin was to be seen between the tops of the stockings and the bottom of the long-skirted coat with its equally long gilet, or waistcoat. THE EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY BEA On the powdered wig of the beau or under his arm was the cocked hat known to the French mode as the tri- corn, and, in winter, a muff, absurdly large or too small for use, was a fre- quent accompaniment to his costume. A greatcoat buttoning well up about the throat and all the way down the front was also in use for winter wear. It was similar in cut to the suit coat and was but little longer. Shoes were of col- oured leathers with square red_ heels, high tongues, and large buckles, the silver buckles of colonial days so fre- quently revived in modern feminine footwear, while the hand emerging from the lace frills swung daintily the famous clouded cane or deftly held a jewelled snuff-box of gold. It was during the latter years of the reign of George II. that the indispen- sable umbrella first became an accessory of masculine modes, and great was the furore created by the masculine adop- tion of this hitherto exclusively femi- nine article. Tradition has preserved the name of one Jonas Hanway as the man who introduced it in London, in 1756. The ridicule with which this new mode was greeted may be gucssed from the account which a serving-man in a certain family of rank has le't of his experiences in carrying an umbrella in London. “If it rained, I wore my fine silk umbrella: then people would call after me, ‘What, Frenchman, why do you not get a coach?’ I was going to dine in Norfolk Street on Sunday. It rained, (Continued on page 154) Octe

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October 15, 1925 pti O7G a vation, of t] e he ex- of the are of worn at the Over as the either f F { i as our t with , to in- f folds rated ecially ye was of the e€ wide ll or a ow it. some- ch was > black of the satin these I above of the -en_ the bottom >qually out the front minin¢ erging ily the held a cessory 4 R.BLACKINTON & Company yas the NORTH ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS | 9 adop- Hi REHS femi- i : >S€ ved el as the wie c/ . , * : : ; don, in Mie h this he : STERLING DRESSER SILVER g- man leit of abrella € silk ll after SS = Oo you 2 CRAFTSMEN IN PERSONAL SILUER

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5? | Too large in the hips to be smart and youthful? Wear a W. B. Doublette— be transformed! q A ridge of fat at corset top? A W. B. Doublette will reproportion your figure into lines of beauty. 4 You will not be troubled with a break at the waistline when you wear the W. B. Doublette! ft Too fuil above the waist? The W. B. Doublette will soon restore your figure to ideal lines. W. B. Doublette No. 5050 ‘Beauty for Large Figures! -THE W.B. Doublette is a truly remarkable garment, which brings beautiful proportions to every woman’s figure whether she be slim, average or large! Especially for /arger figures is the style photographed above— so cleverly cut and so sensibly boned that it gives to the large irelest-teMcat-atlacdol-telli@ meeeeley ie ae with definite support. At good stores, priced: $2.50 to $16.50. Write for new folder. WEINGARTEN BROBS., INC., Dept. V., 34th St. and Broadway, N.Y. C VOGUE] octob The CONVERSION of an OLD HOUSE With Courage for Capital, Two Women Venture in Realty By HELENA LORENZ WILLIAMS HEY called’ one room “the morgue,” because so many peo- ple had died in it. Yet, despised though the house was by those who lived there, we took it to our hearts and restored to it some of the beauty with which the builder had originally endowed it. Moreover, by so doing, we, two young women formerly in. the rent-paying class, suddenly found our- selves to be what we had once hated most—namely, landlords. Our bit of real estate is located in the art-breeding “Village” of New York. The house is of brick, three stories and basement, on a lot twenty by one hundred feet, and it was built about seventy-five years ago. It has large, high-ceilinged rooms, marble mantels, open fireplaces, and delicately designed woodwork. There are few houses in Manhattan in which old mahogany looks half so well; and few which have a twenty by fifty-foot gar- den with a lily pool, wistaria, cannas, asters, and lilies. True, for months we despaired of being able to make it habitable; or of ever being able to sell it again if we should wish to. But, like the mother of a cross-eyed baby, we loved it because it was our own. And we have found that its defects were curable. PROBLEMS OF THE AMATEUR BUYER We decided to become landowners because the surburban realtor’s “Own Your Own Home” slogan had con- verted us. But, as we are by instinct and breeding city people, the suburbs did not interest us. We wanted to own a “town house.” Our capital, however, had about the solidity of the well- known shoe-string. We decided to con- fer with several business men of our acquaintance, who, we believed, knew more about finance than we. The ma- jority opinion seemed to be that we should buy an old house of good design, located in a district where erstwhile fashionable houses are gradually being reclaimed from the devastating hands of a slum population. “It ought to be possible,” we were told, “to buy such a house with four thousand dollars cash.” And then, as a warning, “Keep your investment down to twenty thou- sand dollars, or you will find your- selves in a tight place when your taxes and mortgage interest come due.” “The alterations,” added Betsy, part- ner in the venture, “we can keep down to five thousand dollars. We will re- model, live in half of the house our- selves, and rent the other half.” As Betsy is an architect by profession, she volunteered to throw her talents into the pot by making the alteration plans herself. To the reader who can afford to select a residence or an apartment- house in Park Avenue when he feels in the property-owning mood, our undertaking will be of small interest. For he has never lain awake of nights trying to evolve a scheme that would add another hundred towards a magical four thousand dollars. And he has never worn the clothing of last year so that he might realize a dream. Another thing he has missed, too, is the thrill of staking his all in a game in which one can not tell whether the dice are loaded or not. After a great deal of economizing, we finally made our quota, so to speak, and started out in search of the house. But, we soon learned that while saying may be a wearisome task, the busines of investing savings in real estat, should be undertaken only with the aig of a crystal-gazer. For example, ther are two districts in New York that are being reclaimed as residential sections The most prominent socially is on the East Side. The other, equally in the public eye, though for different reasons is Greenwich Village. We discovered that owners and agents of the mos sagging and evil-smelling brownston: fronts on the East Side, asked prices for their property that would keep jt out of the paying investment class. Fo; it was our plan to live in half of oy house and rent the remainder as apar. ments. In this way, we believed, we might be able to live rent free, or at, low rental, ourselves. We searched the entire East Side, almost made sever! decisions to buy and then change! our minds after figuring out the possi. ble income. Finally, we decided tha if we were to become property owners at all, it would have to be in th Village. WE DISCOVER OUR HOUSE We found a woman real estate agent there who took an almost maternal in- terest in our problem. One very hot day, she telephoned us about a hous on a crooked little street, the name of which we had never even heard, and we started out in search of it. At the corner of the street, we heard the shrieks of many youngsters all bu drowning out the clatter of trucks taxis, and delivery wagons that dashed up and down the avenue in front of us. Down the street, the sight of three or four wagons sagging forlorn and horse- less at the curb told us that somewhere near-by was a stable. But we decided to go on. “Let’s go in and look at it, anyway,” we said, ‘“‘and this will be our last attempt.” A HOUSE WITH A SORDID PAST Have you ever roamed through 2 house in which the rooms are never cleaned, and there is one bathtub to twenty-five people? Have you smelled one, stumbled over its baby carriages, and then tried to find, beneath dirt and ugliness, the lost beauty that the de- signer had once moulded into it? This house was a boarding-house. Every room but the kitchen was a bedroom, and most of the beds were occupied when we called. Our visit, however, seemed to disturb neither the sleepers nor the housekeeper who showed about. The fireplaces were closed up with tin, and a black and gold marble mantel had a neat semicircle cut out of it to make room for a stoveplpt. One of the bedrooms had been “lived in by the same boarder for twenly years,” and the erratic gentleman had always stored his winter supply ° coal in the clothes-closet. The hous was heated with coal and oil heatels; lighted with gas, and contained 4 bathtub and two basins. There was outdoor toilet. One of the hall-room was locked. This was the “morgut in which so many people had died that “no one would live in it any mor The walls, when not painted pca-gret were covered with five or six layers ° paper; no ceiling had less than thre and the floor boards were hidden unde (Continued on page 154)

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Ps 153 GUE october 15, 1925 USE le saving business il eState h the aid ple, there | that are sections, is on the ly in the t reasons, iscovered the most OWllStone ed prices 1 keep it lass. For lf of our as apart. lieved, we >, or ata rched the le several change! the possi- ided that y owners e in the QUEEN'S TASTE There was fiery Slavic blood in her veins—a bit of mysticism in her soul —and her serene Eastern beauty dignified this romantic queen who ruled over one of the most colour’ ful and cultured courts of Europe. SE be In her own royal garden bloomed many fate agent rare flowers,which expressed in colour and aes mysteriously blended perfume her vivid t a house and intangible charm. There were ivory » name of hite 1 fl f 1 d oar gets white lotus flowers from a temple garden t. At the in India—there were “two-legged” man- — ‘me dragora (the flower of witchery) from an f trucks English forest—deep hued hibiscus odie blooms mingled their languorous scent f three or of South Sea enchantment with a thou- nd horse- aa sand other exotic perfumes. re decided look at it, Thus was the Queen’s personality ex- vill be our pressed in a garden of flowers, the deli- cately blended fragrance of which lives on in the perfume created to her personal taste by Rénaud’s JARDINS CELESTES A Perfume of Royalty PAST hrough 4 are never athtub to yu smelled carriages, h dirt and it the de- y it? This A generous sample se. Every of this different odor ee bedroom, d made wit 7 postpaid fortwenty- R - occupie : somes . five cents. oO, are Amber ~ however, \ head 1e sleepers showed us closed up old marble le cut out 2 stovepipe een “lived or twenty’ s leman had C R supply % Rare Amber ’ oF we Re A ¥ tf ON S RENAUD et CIE “se Distributed by Made and sealed in France of CANADA ere was 4 ‘ RENAUD et CIE - 23 Scott Street hall-room : of AMERICA JARDINS CELESTES FLEURS de GRASSE Senate, Cnt: te "/} 12 Columbia Street FORET de FRANCE COURS de RUSSIE 9g » ay mete ( Boston, Mass. a St. Johns y oi ve an ; a rived DD LUBENTIA C than thre * the flower of the Goddess of Pleasure : - 7 ar NI dden unde DK \VERNE WA OY, 4 was LEWD 54)

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154 BELDING’S SILKS WEAR LONGER Waen you buy the smart fabrics for your winter wardrobe, will you ask for just “Silks”? Or will you be one of that steadily increasing number of style-informed women who require Be/ding’s Silks? These lustrous lengths of Belding’s Satins, these soft, sturdy Belding’s Crépes—what does the “Belding’s” on their selvage mean to you? It means Enduring Quality—a guarantee that your dress will never split or crack, that it may be cleaned without risk, and that it will wear an incredibly long time. Belding’s have made good silks for more than 60 years and every year has brought more and more women who want the smartness and the durability which is guaranteed by the name Belding’s. Near you is one of the 10,000 good stores that sell Belding’s Silks by name when you —ask for them h ie want the best or lingerie. Belding Bros. & Co., 902 Broadway, N. Y. paral Silk is strong MS and lustrous Be sure to sew with silk Baiiines Fabrics, Smbroidery, Spool Silks VOGUE ITHE GEORGIAN MODE (Continued from page 150) and my sister had hold of my arm, and I had the umbrella over our heads. In Tavistock Street, we met so many young men, calling after us, ‘French- man, take care of your umbrella; Frenchman, why do you not get a coach ?’ ” With the reign of George III., the fulness shrinks and is cut away from the skirts of the coat, leaving a garment much more nearly on the lines of the Louis XV. coat, open very widely over a short gilet and snug black satin knee. breeches. The cuff has disappeared entirely from the sleeve, which is now long and close with two or three buttons at the wrist, and the waistcoat has very nearly the lines of the mascu- line vest of to-day. It remained for the French Revolution to add the modern turned-down collar and revers ani to cut away the skirts of the coat to the claw-hammer shape, while bringing tie coat over in double-breasted effect. The CONVERSION of ax OLD HOUSE (Continued from page 152) several layers of very dingy oilcloth. We bought that house. The cost of remodelling it was but a few hundred dollars more than the five thousand dollars that we had figured on. The house is twenty feet wide. We left the high front stoop and arranged the basement into a two-room-and-bath apartment with plenty of closet room. The first floor had an extension, and in this we housed the kitchen, pantry, and maid’s room, The large room in the rear became our dining-room. At a cost of about one hundred and fifty dollars, we enlarged the window aper- ture and had a French door put in, as well as an iron stairway that leads to the garden. The front room is the living-room. Up-stairs are our bedrooms with the bath at the rear. The top floor originally contained a dark room in the centre. This we provided with a high studio skylight. We also installed a bath and tiny kitchen, thereby creat- ing a charming and comfortable four- room-and-bath apartment. Our other alterations were steam-heat, electricity, hardwood floors in our dining- and living-rooms, and entirely new plumb- ing. Of course, the entire house had to be repainted, papered, and plastered. The front of the house is painted a dark grey-green with a white trim and a white doorway, and we have dec- orated it with window-boxes contain- ing red geraniums, ivy, and wandering- jew. The bricks at the back of the house were pointed up. In the centre of the garden, we sank a large tub, filled it with water, and planted lilies. Surrounding it is a border of sweet- william and a crooked path of vari- coloured tile to and beyond it. MAKING THE HOUSE HABITABLE The task of cleaning out the house was quite comparable to Hercules’s task of cleaning out the Augean stables. But we went at it with zest and enjoyed it. Our first adventure came on the day after the former tenants moved out, when we personally undertook to open up the fireplaces. We made muslin masks, soaked them in disinfectant, and tied them so that they covered our faces from nose to chin. We also wore rubber gloves. Then we jimmied one of the fireplaces on the top floor. We dug viciously into the sooty mass that was piled high in the chimney, and something toppled out sickeningly and rolled at our feet. We stared at it terri- fied. We punched it with a shovel. It rolled back and forth once or twice, and a tightly packed encasing of soot fell away from it, revealing a stuffed bull- dog without a head! The following day, we telephoned a disinfecting com- pany. They locked up the house and for several hours spread poison-gas through it. We also discovered revolvers, one of them still loaded, carefully tied up in a red bandanna. We told our friends about this with great relish and never knew until then how great is the passion among men for breaking the law. We were invited out to tea and casually asked if we wanted to sell our revolvers. Women friends called us up and said their husbands were in the market for a good gun. But Betsy had already given the ash-man fifty cents and a motto bearing the inscription “God Bless Our Home,” for taking the weapons out of the place. Our offer to our friends of an ancient butter churn and three stuffed birds perched on a sheaf of wheat found no bidders, A MEMORABLE MOVING DAY After three months of hotel living and many quarrels with mechanics, we finally had the house to ourselves. On the great day on which we moved in, we first stopped at a florist’s and bought huge bunches of moist, fragrant autumn leaves. At a gift shop, we found some bayberry candles. We had Arthur, our faithful West Indian, open up a box of china, pull out half a dozen vases, and we distributed the leaves all over the house, flanked by lighted candles. Then we went to work. While Arthur polished furniture, we made beds and put up curtains, and, after several hours, we had one perfect room Then, we had a bath in our new tub with hot water from our new heater Finally, we ate expensively and went to a musical revue. A_ week later all of the house was sufficiently livable for us to receive our first guests. The tenants whom our agent had procured for us moved in shortly afterward, and peace and tranquillity and even prosper- ity entered our souls. From the first, the stable that is directly across the way was a thorn in our flesh. The former owner of our house had told us that an Italian prince had purchased it. We féand this was not true, but it has been sold since then and is to be remodelled into siudio apartments. Several tenements are also to be rebuilt. These changes will, of course, greatly increase the value of our property and improve the appearance of the street. Still, we shall miss the horses. There is a piebald one that pulls an ice-wagon, and there are two bays that are owned by a dairy. A huge white one nightly pulls a storage truck through the stable door with a majestic air. On Sundays, they «ll re- ceive a hose bath, and the bay mare hangs her tail out of the window to dry. It is a long, beautiful tail, and she shakes it vigorously from side t0 side, as women used to when they dried their crowning glory. At four o'clock every morning, she and her partner pull their milk-wagon over to the dairy, where two men throw clattering milk- cans aboard while the horses stamp their feet and shake their harness. Octo y mh

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GUE DE itin knee. appeared h is now or tliree waist: Oat e€ mascu- d for the > MOocern S and to at to the ging the fect. USE fri: nds 1d never is the cing the tea and sell our d us up - in the *tsy had ty cents cription cing the ur offer butter perched bidders, § | living chanics, selves, moved t’s and ragrant lop, we Ve had Nn, open a dozen leaves lighted While made |, after t room ew tub heater 1 went < later livable s. The ocured ‘d, and rospers hat is thorn of our prince is was since studio re also rill, of of our arance ss the e that re two ry. A torage vith a all re- mare ‘ow to 1, and ide to dried clock artner dairy, milk- stamp S.

1925 October 15,

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“M. LUBIN, Parfumeur to the Czar of all the Russias...” 155 : His Majesty the Emperor, having received Ay ae of ab 0ve your re ion gives me ermission, » Froersan to use the title of oPerfumer-Distller of His Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias.’’ The present open letter which I have signed and to which I have affixed the seal of my arms, will serve as your Warrant. Paris, the 13th of January 1823. The Ambassador of His Majesty, the Emperor of all the Russias, the servant of His Very Christian Majesty. To M. Lubin—Rue St. Anne No. 55. LUBIN’S Amaryllis ... A rare perfume of particular enticement His Odeurs, the preferred of Royalty for Generations — now the choice of discriminating American fashion-leaders

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This plaque is displayed by exclusive distributors of Lubin Perfumes THE CHANDON COMPANY, FS GENERATIONS of pleasing discriminating women has given to Lubin the envied position these parfums hold today. For, just as a hundred years ago and more kings commanded his odeurs, today his most exacting clientéle are those sophisticated women of the Continent... and now again, of America... who have maintained his imperishable vogue. Of the odeurs of Lubin, the perfume Amaryllis is often selected for its vaguely elusive fragrance —the delicacy of its bouquet. It is a Parfum of rare excellence—one which while discreetly enticing combines with its be- witching fragrance a lasting quality found only in the most perfectly distilled odeurs. A secret ot the perfume-makers of a century gone. For years Lubin’s Perfumes have been privately imported by those American fashion-leaders whose fastidious taste has been a guide to those who seek constantly for the finest, the most exclusive. * * * Now these famous perfumes may be obtained in the most exclusive American shops. Costly, it is true . . . but that is the surest protection to those who insist upon exclusiveness. The most exclusive shop in your city no doubt has Parfums Lubin. Or madame may write to us and we will refer her to one who sells them. LU Sin 509 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTORS FOR THE UNITED STATES sala ci 3019

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} 156 BEAU I Y:.. in a gunmetal petticoat I T’S orange in its slim little gunmetal petti- coat—but changes to youth’s own blend of rose and ‘coral on your lips. It’s real color magic—the kind that is nat- ural—that is waterproof—that is smearproof— that is kissproof—that doesn’t come off for anything except soap and water. It’s Tangee lipstick. And it has a little sister, Tan- gee Rouge. And another little sister, Tangee Créme Rouge. All three equally talented and wonderful. But the best thing about these little friends of beauty is that you can be sure they are absolutely harmless— for they are consistently pure in composition and, in- stead of a harmful wax or grease base, they contain cold cream that is softening and soothing to the skin. Get Tangee today . beautiful. . . Tomorrow you will be more Tangee Lipstick, $1. Tangee Rouge Compact, $.75. Tangee Creme Rouge (especially |A good for dry skins), $1. Mons. Doriot NG&S It your dealer cannot supply you, send direct to GEORGE W. LUFT COMPANY, NEW YORK Your dealer’s name will be appreciated. MMMM MULL eee . VOGUE MM Wl MMM WWW From Jumaya, Spain, to the Basilica of Loyola is a picturesque journey leading through remote Span- ish villages, far into the Pyrenees Mountains THE BASILICA OF LOYOLA On a Journey to This Remote Ancient Spot, and Unstirred Scenes Soften the Senses to Poetry By CLAUDIA CRANSTON OR those who know how to seek it, there is still in European travel the romance of the unspoiled unex- pected. But it does not lie in the blatant tracks of the tourists. Rather, it hides itself away, a secret for the discerning. There are trails off the beaten track that lead in a few days— in a few hours even—to memories that last a lifetime. There are bright and poignant experiences that sharpen the senses to adventure, and there are ancient and unstirred scenes that soften the senses to poetry. Such a journey—evanescent in time and permanent in impression—is that to the Basilica of Loyola, in Spain The journey is but a day from the au- tumn residence of the King of Spain. And the autumn is a charming season for it. A REMOTE SPANISH VILLAGE Loyola was born in a wee village set in the Pyrenees Mountains, its white stone houses so old that no one knows when they first emerged from the surrounding field-stones. Scattered in the indentations of the hills are these houses, like a few sprays of white flowers strewed in the basin of a great round stadium. There is still, after all these cen- turies, no railroad to this village where Loyola was born. (Unfortunately, one is building.) The globe-trotter who wanders there is, therefore, no matter how blasé he be, profoundly im- pressed with the significance of a great man doing his work of lonely genius, as did Loyola, in whatever remote place it may be cast, in the faith that, done truly, it will serve its purpose in the world, however far from the world it may lie. And, cer- tainly, no more remote spot lay in all Christendom than the home of Loyola when he first began his work. Yet, his spirit drew the world to come. According to the quaint early his- tory of Loyola, he was the son of a great nobleman who lived in a castle on the spot where now stands the Basilica of Loyola. Whether Loyola was Basque or whether he was Span- ish, or whether he was both, history itself has been rent in twain to de- cide. Certainly, the castle stood in the stronghold of the Basques. And yet its cannon, one of which is pre- served in the ancient mortar, were turned against the Basque mountain- eers. But, Basque or not, there Loyola grew to be a young man, most beaute- ous to behold, a courtier of the first rank, proud and audacious and world- ly. It was the year before America was discovered that he was born. And Isabella of Castile was his queen, and Ferdinand of Leon was his king. At the height of his fashionable splendour, Loyola broke his leg. When it was healed, it was crooked. Then, he broke it a second time, with his own hands! This he did that it might be set straight again—in order that he might wear again the fine silk stockings that were his pride and joy! But—alas, or otherwise—, while his leg was mending the second time. his mother, probably having exhausted all else, gave him some religious books to read. And there he was! He got religion. A RELIGIOUS PILGRIMAGE In his subsequent quest of Christ, Loyola went to Paris—how the youn: man came to choose the gay city of Paris is an enigma. And, in Paris the eccentric Spanish grandee learned French by going to school with th: French children. As it. happened by fate, Loyola lived, while in the Frenc! city, with the most brilliant and worldly student in all that most bril- liant and worldly of European cap- itals. This famous Parisian student, Loy ola finally converted to be his firs! disciple. And, with this first discipl began the order of the Jesuits, wh« originated the modern idea of propa- ganda, going far and wide into th (Continued on page 158) 2)

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October 15, 1925

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Mr Se a ATT act ea ee 604 Fifth Avenue, the new home of Ogilvie Sisters Our new salonis now open! UR new New York salon is more than twice as large as our former quarters. It is carefully fitted to give expert care to the hair and scalp, with the same individual attention to your special needs which is an important part of Ogilvie Sisters Service. You may receive this same service in our salons in Paris and Washington. Many stores, too, are finding it important to maintain a regular Ogilvie Sisters de- partment to satisfy those customers who demand our successful, common sense hair preparations. If there is not an Ogilvie Sisters section in your favorite shop, write us direct. May we send you a Booklet? Our booklet “Beautiful Hair by Common Sense Methods” is yours for the asking, and if you will de- scribe the condition of your hair to write you a letter of personal advice, without charge. =“) - Hair, Scalp and Henna _ Specialists 604 Fifth Avenue (Dept. 41) New York City 308 Boylston Street 1106 Connecticut Avenue Boston, Mass. 23 Rue de la Paix Washington, D. C. Paris VOGUE THE BASILICA OF LOYOLA (Continued from page 156) world to seek their disciples, instead of waiting for them to come in of their own accord. To the home of Loyola, the traveller may easily go by automobile from San Sebastian. Or, more romantically, one may begin the journey on an autobus at eight o’clock in the morning, from Zumaya, the home of the Spanish painter, Zuloaga. After jolting up and up into the mountains on the autobus, one arrives at the end of the bus line and takes a private carriage. The carriage has a _ basket-like body of white wickerwork and is hung with curtains of black silk! In this Ori- entally turned out equipage, one may then drive, in a fittingly leisurely fashion, further into the mountains. THE SPANISH COUNTRY Such a thrilling ride it is, the sweet Spanish houses lying white on the hillsides, covered with bright green vines, red-roofed, and many of them beside mountain streams. The streams are spanned by great bridges, Moorish arched, and supported by mighty shafts of granite cut whole from the very buttresses of the Pyrenees. There are many small factories on the way, all of white stone and all industri- ously puffing smoke that never reaches the sky, because the sharp mountains, like tent-poles, hold it so high above them. Many of the mountains are naked at the tops, though it is im- possible that they could be so high as to be above timber-line as known in the American Rockies. After about two hours of this mem- orable Basque landscape, the carriage rattles into the small, typically Spanish village of Cestona, with streets as nar- row almost as the palm of a hand, balconies hung with seforitas and tinkling with Spanish sounds. Present- ly the carriage draws out of the village. And suddenly, unexpectedly, one be- holds, set on a little plain in the basin of the rugged mountains, a building as elegant as those that grace the boulevards of Paris! Against the wild Basque background, it is startling and unreal. AN ANCIENT BASILICA The oldest part of the present edifice, the church itself, is said to have been completed during the life- time of Loyola. The central part of the church is round, in conformity to the Byzantine architecture which in- spired all the Christian Basilicas. A combination of Byzantine form and Roman massiveness, really, seems this basilica, as do others. The entire church, inside and out- side, is of marble and granite, of mosaics and stone and gold. Not a particle of wood is used, even in dec- orations. Doubtless, every ounce of the materials for the church was dragged slowly from afar by the an- cestors of the same great bronze col- oured oxen that one sees there to. day, still dragging columns of marble and blocks of granite. The facade of the Basilica is of marble, grey wath centuries. Above the imposing steps leading to the entrance is a broad portico, and above the pillars of the portico, the marble is carved and inlaid and fretted, so weathered that the details are scarcely distinguishable. And, above all, rises the ancient dome, blackened with age, One wing of the building, of which the Basilica is the centre, was origi- nally the castle in which Loyola was born and grew to be a man. As most of the ancient castle was destroyed by wars, it is now converted into a series of shrines, or chapels, interest- ing and curious, and some of them beautiful. The first chapel glows like one large gem. It is as though one had grown very, very small and had slipped into the inside of a jewel.’ The walls around three sides are done in Vene- tian mosaic; there are bands, and panels, and scrolls in all colours and gold. So fine are these decorations that they might be inlays of the sands of the seas, each grain of sand a separate, scintillating shade. PICTURESQUE CHAPELS From this first chapel, a second opens, where great windows of crystal have gold coloured glass raying them like the dazzling sun. The lower part of the wall in this chapel is of Cuban mahogany, the wood-brown of the mahogany deep and rich, the texture as soft as a hand-woven fabric, and every fraction of surface carved by hand. But the most interesting chapel is called “The Room of His Youth” and was the bedroom of Loyola when he was a little boy. It is small, with walls of onyx, faintly translucent yel- low, and one notes how exquisitely the onyx is cut and fitted into the win- dow-facings. The ceiling is of crystal, and the wall back of the altar is of fabulously rich, real, Russian lapis lazuli, veined with gold. This altar, its candlesticks and crosses, and the frames of its dedicatory inscriptions, are all of that Damascene work origi- nating in Damascus and for centuries so characteristically Spanish, gold in- laid in black steel. This Damascene work is done at its best in Toledo, near Madrid. There is, too, the room in which Loyola celebrated his first mass. Here, the ceiling, the great altar doors, and the floor are of pure silver, and the walls are of satin set in panels of silver. There are two chapels in the seven- teenth-century baroque sstyle, their ceilings almost dropping with great clumps of gold. This baroque decora- tion was, unfortunately, introduced into Spain by a sculptor and architect named Churri Guere—a name which sounds about the way the style of dec- oration looks. | As swift as its fabled reindeers, Christmas comes. October, November, December —then the Night Before. You aren't prepared, are you? But Vogue is. The November 1 issue (out on the news-stands by October 25) alone contains enough gifts for your selection to gratify the most particular friend, the most critical family. And the procedure is so simple: Vogue finds the charming gift; then you go straight to the shop, see it, admire it, purchase it. That’s all! |

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are tos marble is of Above to the 1 above marble ted, so carcely 1, rises th age. ~ which . Origi- la was S most yed by into a iterest- F them e large grown -d_ into walls Vene- 3, and rs and rations : sands and a second crystal y them ar part Cuban f the exture c, and ‘hand. ipel is (outh” when , with it yel- isitely e win- rystal, is of lapis altar, id the ptions, origi- ituries Id in- ascene ‘oledo, which Here, 3, and id the silver. seven- their great ecoras duced shitect which f dec- a wa October 15, 1925 159 FRANK BROTHERS Fifth Avenue Boot Shop Between 47h and 48th Streets, New Yorks A delicate scroll design in copper lends charac- ter to a patent leather opera slipper. Patent leather, brown or gray kid $18.50 WAS TO HIBIT cxacAGgo etn gs : C ReneS Shoreham Hotel EW HAVE. ST LOUTS PITTSBU H NS Hotel Taft X Arcade Building Jenkins fet mg We have no agencies- Our Shoes are sold in our own Shops only MADOUKA © ed pari oubtle and. envdoping wkick~ wokes the chame of legeadaty Prrsia~ eXew powder box with differ and. war. puff Ipathhe. GWilkout. silter and puff ‘ee Darhur 207 dize*6. Otker Creatiotss cAm Pre Noir, Lilad Raiser Ctonbine, Biables “Bletac, Chypre. eNowues, Aarcisses* TYNE. cAl keardling stores Spceial MADOUKA offer :/ntroductory Madouka Box, botile "Of parjion and new powder box, pon receipt of #1. postpaid... RECTAL UU york Darius F tT H a

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Jib BOG (1s Se : : { eran ; and water now realize that : ; \ w Safar THE MOST BEAUTY Are you making this mistake which has robbed millions of their rightful loveliness? Does your present method of cleans- ing your skin, merely “‘surface cleanse” it—leaving the pores clogged with hidden dust and grime? Many women who for years have used cold creams or soap thereisa better way—a snowy- white, subtly-fragrant liquid which penetrates deep into the pores and flushes them free from all foreign matter. E. Burnham Cucumber Cream it is called. For more than a generation it has been in constant use professionally at Burnham's, Chicago, the world’s largest beauty estab- lishment and in countless other beauty shopsall over the world. ( s ®) ¢ " E. BURNHAM, Inc., Sees ie en z leansing cleanser aN bl COMMON ERROR 1 Don’t Mar Your Lovely Skin By This Neglect ' Special Introductory Offer Because we are confident that, once you've experienced the pore-flushing action of Cucum- ber Cream you'll prefer it to any skin cleanser you've ever used, we make the following offer: {1} Clip the memo below and mail, together with 25c. This will bring you a Special Beginner's Size Bottle of Cu- cumber Cream. {2]} When you have used up ‘ this 1% oz.—the coupon (en- closed in every package) will apply as twenty-five cents on the purchase of a full size $1.20 bottle. {3] Or, if for any reason, you do not consider Cucumber Cream the most satisfying skin cleanser for your skin, your 25c will berefunded promptly. EBumhanr L(OH1G n SKIN Professional Dept., 138 N. State Street, Chicago, Ill. I enclose 25¢ for Special Beginner's Size Bottle of E. Burnham Cucumber Cream. B CARD CARDS CAR CAWI CAPRI CAWIY CAWD VOGUE (Left) Mary, Queen of Scots, was ruler of men’s hearts and fates, but powerless over her own MARY, QUEEN OF HEARTS By DOROTHY SHERRILL “Ah, did you once see Mary plain, And did she stop and speak to you?” ES?—then you loved her, that . beautiful witty princess with grey, brown, or hazel eyes (depending on the artist and the historian) and gold, brown, or auburn hair (depending on the colour of her wig at the time). History writes of only two men who, knowing Mary Stuart well, could still frown at her witchery. One was the man of religion, John Knox; the other was Elizabeth’s henchman, Mary’s last gaoler. The tale began when she was the merest toddler, sent by her mother to the French Court. James V. of Scot- land had died just six days after his daughter’s birth, in 1542. The world knows his oft-quoted, gloomy comment: “Farewell, it (the crown of Scotland) came with a lass (Marjory Bruce), it will end with a lass.” And, leaving that prophecy, a regent, and a turbulent Scotland as an inheritance to the youngest Stuart, the King turned his face to the wall. FRENCH SETTING FOR A SCOTCH QUEEN All things considered, the baby fared well. Her mother promptly shipped her over to her own kin, the Guises, and to a tiny fiancé, Francis II., Dau- phin of France. Poor little Francis, a delicate doll child, he tried so hard to be a man for Mary! After his first meeting with the princess, he refused to wear his baby dresses. He would show her that he, too, could play with a sword, and give commands, and stamp his foot! But there was always the measles, or mumps, or colds for him, while sturdy Scotch Mary led the chase. She led him, too,—a merry “follow-the- leader.” She ran, she rode—with a pistol at her saddle—, she danced, she sang, accompanying herself on the harp, sweeping over its golden strings as fair -a hand as da Vinci ever painted. She wore regal clothes and, at the age of eight, had more jewels than three brass chests could hold. The French Court, and gruff old Henri II., and his lovely Diane de Poitiers spoiled this Scottish Queen. But she was so amusing! She thought of so many things to do to fill their long hours. When she was thirteen, for ex- ample, she delivered before the whole noble assembly in the hall of the Louvre a famous Latin speech on the defense of learned women. And, when Francis died, after sitting beside her on the throne of France for eleven months, she wrote in French a delicate little sonnet describing her gentle grief. Mourning was vastly becoming to the young widow. She wore it when she set sail for Scotland, taking with her her dogs and dolls, her books and maps, her four Scotch Marys—who had come to France with her—, and her adoring courtiers. Two of these were especially adoring—Rizzio, the Italian, lute-player to a noble in Mary’s train, and Chastel- ard, descendant of Bayard the Great, an envoy sent by a mighty French ad- mirer to watch over the girl dowager. Scotland was cold after France; not the people—they were aflame at first to worship this Stuart queen—,but the country. All through Mary’s inventory of household expenses, one sees the item, “Fur from Russia, for night- gowns.” And Holyrood! Brr! For all its French embellishments, brought about by the architects of James V., it was a cold place after the palaces of France. Dungeons, moat, portcullis, and grey stone walls—this was an abode for a man of mail, not for a maid. The Queen and her four faithful Marys set to work. They opened their coffers and sprinkled their treasures about. Black velvet hangings for the antechamber, Turkey carpets for the floors, tapestries for the walls, cushions here, and canopies there. (Mary had one little canopy on a frame which she used as a parasol.) It was made to seem not so bad, and there was a really good library which had belonged to James. Mary loved books. She loved horses, too, and dogs, and puppet-shows brought from Italy, and masques—in which she and her favourites performed. Then there were golf and chess and cards. Into all these, she entered with great élan. And, on Saints’ days, she was most observant and prayed and gave largess to the poor. On Maundy Thursday (the day before Good Fri- day), she followed an ancient custom, begun in the Catholic Church and later adopted by the Church of England. She washed the feet of as many poor maidens as there were years in her age, giving to these girls bolts of fine linen and white kersey to make themselves dresses. MARY AND DARNLEY Her marriage with Darnley caused but little interruption in these duties and pleasures. Murray, her natural brother, held the reins of state. She could turn freely to this new love. He was a beautiful golden-haired boy—a Lennox of the highest line, a line that led near to the Scottish throne in its own right. He was backed in his nup- tials by Elizabeth, who always kept a wary eye on her cousin Mary. Darnley was slender, graceful, lovable, a little stupid, and somewhat vicious. Mary was devoted to him for a month; but he could not write poetry—as could Chastelard—, nor could he play a lute— as could Rizzio. It was all too bad about Chastelard. History wonders if his fate ever caused Mary black waking hours at night, or if she ever thought of him in her long, devout prayers. He loved not wisely, but too well. And Mary, not loving him enough, or a little afraid of the pass of affairs, or merely callous, perhaps, let the righteous folk hang him. He died— in his own words—if not as “gloriously” as his forefather, Bayard, at least as “bravely.” And he loved his Queen to the end, going out with a verse of Ron- (Continued on page 168)

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October 15, 1925 of vs ut vidio dare be different 4 “7 There's little of “old lace and lavender” about Pleville’s brilliant new perfume, Flamme de Gloire. Frankly, it’s quite modern—perhaps for some a bit too—shall we say daring? But if you believe with Monsieur Pleville that all women are not alike— and shouldn't be; if you yearn to express in vivid fragrance that mystifying something which is you; ae eatin he if you are piquant and gay and a trifle sophisticated In original con- tainers of various sizes, sealed in Paris. in your tastes—then happily you are among the Hig Yeats octane op Sheer favored few for whom Flamme de Gloire wascreated! Eau de Toilette, Compacte, Brillantine, Lip Stick and Eyebrow Pencil. You can purchasethe exquisite miniature z Flacon of Flamme de Gloire for as little LP. as $1.25. Or asmall sample will gladly ( be sent if you will write the importers, Frederick Stearns & Company, Detroit. FLAME OF GLORY) it- all ht he ve er The New Art of Corsetry SOure becomes much simpler when one is the possessor of this Redfern Wrap-Around,* N/112, which so magically smooths out old-fashioned hip curves that one can wear—with perfect success —the slim, smart frocks that one used to admire but renounce. *Trademark Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. Price $850 p ¥ , \ it ii , . *]| ‘ey \ Roof ik 23 RUE DE LA’PAIX P'YPARIS f ed ies. he Te at its p- cy le ry ut ld od or g, y; of et ” is [iO Send for booklet, Department C, The Warner Brothers Company, 347 Madison Ave., New York City; 367 West A s St., Chicago; 28 Geary St., San Francisco

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ei ae 162 $74.00 In various styles and qualities, from $3.50 up Style shown No. 8423 For Fashion’s Leaders Girdles Step-ins Hiplets ducers The La Camilie Line “Superall” Brassieres Bandeaux Front Lace “Dreskwik” Diaphragm Re- International “Nameless” perfectly. Combination Garment. International Corset Company Aurora, Illinois 276 West 5th Avenue - got it, she can very easily get it for you. New York If you can imagine a garment that is tailored with hitherto unachieved dain- tiness—yet a garment that always holds the figure to swan-like graceful lines— you can imagine this combination gar- ment. Think of what a genuine pleas- ure it would be to try one on. And you can be sure of getting one that will fit This garment is made in both odd and even sizes, such as—36— 37—38 and 39. Stop in at your cor- setiere’s today. Ask for the La Camille If she hasn’t VOGUE It is against the fitting background of an ancient and artistic church that the lace makers of one of the oldest establishments ply their delicate trade VENICE PUTS BEAUTY INTO LACE By ALICE ROSSI ACE MAKING in Venice origi- nated at an early date, though it would be difficult to state with certainty just when this. delicate handicraft first absorbed the time and talents of the Venetian women. Ac- cording to a pretty story referring to the origin of lace making, a young Venetian sailor returning home from a long and perilous sea voyage brought his sweetheart a rare piece of sea- moss of exquisite texture. The fair maiden, in the desire to cherish her lover’s keepsake, not only carefully pressed it, but, fearing lest in course of time it should crumble to pieces, took her needle and thread and faithfully copied the delicate specimen, outlining it and filling it in with stitches, first crosswise and then lengthwise, until, after long and patient toil, she had succeeded in reproducing the design of the lovely sea-moss with her fine white thread. Thus, it appears to have been through fond devotion that threads were first delicately inter- woven by a woman’s hands, giving birth to the art of lace making in the isles of the Venetian lagoon. LACE MAKING TO PASS THE TIME One of the earliest documents re- ferring to lace making is a painting by Carpaccio (1495) showing the ladies of the court making lace in the royal palace. In the second half of the sixteenth century, Caesar Vecellio, nephew of the great Titian, drew a number of beautiful lace designs, which were collected in book form, known as the Corona delle Nobili e Virtuose Donne or the Hand-book of Noble and Virtuous Women. One can see by these drawings that the art of lace making had already reached a high degree of perfection, because the difficult and complicated figuring of animals and flowers reveals a mas- terly knowledge of the endless and mysterious intricacies created by needle and bobbin. Lace making at that time was carried on to such an extent that it was the accomplishment of almost every feminine hand. One reason for this, I am told, is to be found in the fact that Venetian women were wont to bleach their hair, and not by the rapid means of _ twentieth-century methods, but by sitting long hours at a time in the sun on the altane, a roof terrace still seen to-day on the houce- tops of Venice. There, the Venetian women began to take up lace making as a means of beguiling time while basking in the warmth of the Italian sunlight. On their heads, they wor large wooden hoops to keep _ their tresses well spread out, that they might better attain the golden hue which fashion then demanded and_ which Titian’s paintings reveal in all their beauty. One can picture them on those flowery retreats, gathering in small neighbourly groups, mirthfully working together and busily gossiping; and one can imagine them more vividly after reading Goldoni’s de- lightful writings, containing humor- ous descriptions of Venetian domestic life in his day. Lace making in Venice and throughout the adjoining islands thus became a characteristic feature of feminine handicraft, and from simple rudimental designs, the women gradually developed their skill until they were able to produce ex- quisitely delicate ones, as light and fragile as spider-webs. It is interesting to notice how lact making, besides giving expression to changing fashions, being an exclusive creation of woman’s fancy, interpreted also the spirit of the time and _ the moods of the lace makers throughout the various epochs of history. Dur- ing the Renaissance, for instance, th« style of lace making revealed eleganc and refinement, reflecting women’s tastes at that period; later, when Barocco predominated, it was _ ricl and extravagant, and, at the time of Rococo, lace making was of a mor coquettish and capricious style. RISE AND FALL IN INDUSTRY With the fall of the Republic, i 1797, once the splendour of the ‘‘Ser enissima” had failed and gone, the lace makers abandoned their wor! completely. Difficult times ensued and, during the following years 0! foreign oppression, the Venetian wom- en found no inspiration for the cre- ation of their lace making art. It was only when the Italian colours waved once more in Piazza San Mar- (Continued on page 166) Octob E e ti itself. ‘J and wh the skit You stores a For Follow note the i After the Rose Leaf ener, appl and work cording tc move the = Crear TOWN 5; three a 10 minute apply Sm Bleach ¢ the testim House of toning an Rose Lez and mort ities and Apply wi off with Cleansing

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UE 3 at “oof 1se- ‘ian ing hile lian Ore 1eir ght ich ich 1eir on in illy 1g ; ore de- or- tic ing tic 1d he il] nd ie to October 15, 1925 fom PRIMROSE HOUSE to keep the complexion beautiful and the face young ERFECTED in actual use by New York’s smartest and most exclusive beauty salon, Primrose House preparations are as dis- tinctive and as scientific in their origin as Primrose House itself. That is wherethey differ from the ordinary creams and lotions and why they accomplish definite results in bringing new beauty to the skin and youthful contour to the face and neck. You will find Primrose House preparations at leading department stores and smart shops. Ask about them. For Toning and Clearing the Skin Follow these directions once a week and note the improvement in your complexion. After thoroughly cleansing the skin with Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream and Skin Fresh- ener, apply Primrose House Bleach Cream and work in well for 3 to 5 minutes, ac- cording to the sensibility of the skin. Re- move the Bleach Cream and apply Smooth- skin Cream. For discolorations, freckles and brown spots on face, neck and hands apply three nights a week and leave on 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the Bleach Cream and apply Smoothskin Cream. Bleach Cream—Remarkable indeed are the testimonials that have come to Primrose Houseof the effectiveness of this cream for toning and clearing the skin. $2.00, $3.50. Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream— Use night and morning to remove all surface impur- ities and cleanse the skin immaculately. Apply with wet absorbent cotton and wipe off with soft cloth or Primrose House Cleansing Tissues. $1.00, $2.00, $3.50. Skin Freshener—lIncreases firmness of the skin and makes it more resistant to wrinkles and flabbiness. $1.25, $3.00. Smoothskin Cream — Gives to fine, dry, sensitive skin a petal-smooth texture and softness. $1.00, $2.00, $3.00. If You Need Color Prim-Ora Rouge—A fascinating orange shade of cream rouge which blends imper- ceptably with, and increases natural coloring. Docs not streak and is practically indelible. In shell containers. Pocket size $1.25— Boudoir size $2.50. Ideal For a Gift is the Primrose House Treasure Box This richly lacquered metal box in Chinese red containing in separate compartments introductory sizes of eleven selected Primrose house beauty aids; most conven- ient for travel. Specially priced at $5.00. ow ow If yourstore cannot supply you with any of the above preparations, they will be sent di- rect from Primrose House on receipt of price. Every woman interested in ways to care for the skin, hands and hair, that have proved remarkably effective, should write for a copy of the Primrose House Book- let- ‘Here Dwells Youth”. Mailed free to any address, vimrode House’ jhe SEAST52™ST, New YORK, Department A-5 *Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. Thrice (harmin g A “House of Youth” coat —when personal attractiveness and gra- cious presence are enhanced by lovely clothes. ‘Today every gentlewoman believes it is a duty to be charming, and not the least important tenet is attire worthy of her creed. House of Youth coats and costume suits are loveliness personified. They are worn by smartly dressed women and misses of all exclusive and fashionable communities. Write for name of nearest shop which car- - 6 ries ‘House or YouTH” attire SCHULMAN & HAUPTMAN 224 West 35TH STREET, NEw YorK “Success in Dress,” our fashion publication, will be mailed you on request

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The Rest Hour Becomes the Dressed Hour To be always fresh and buoyant, always ready to meet the world with a smile, is seldom a matter of natural strength. More often, it is an indication of a wise woman who has found how to conserve her nervous strength and vitality. The Comfy Rest Hour* now has thousands of faithful devotees who greatly value the renewed freshness and vitality it brings. Here—in the privacy of her boudoir—the woman of modern ideas carries out her own note of individuality and charm. Instead of ordinary dingy slippers, she revels in the dainty comfort of a softly tinted D’Orsay, the luxurious freedom of a quilted satin “mule”’, the rich simplicity of a silken Empress, or whatever dainty Daniel Green creation that best suits her sense of beauty and harmonizes with her favorite negligee. For the woman of taste, the wide selection of dainty boudoir slippers made by Daniel Green comes as a charm- ing revelation. Their rich elegance is emphasized by a per- fection of craftsmanship, and minute attention to detail. DANIEL GREEN FELT SHOE CO. - DOLGE AVENUE, DOLGEVILLE, NEW YORK anielbreen Comfy Slippers *A practical method of rest and relaxation for the woman whose days are filled with work and hurry is to be found ina booklet by Dr. Edwin F. Bowers, which we will gladly send free. new Daniel Green Style Book, which pictures in color many of the newer and daintier crea- tions in Daniel Green Comfy Slippers. We will gladly send you the \ VOGUE raza St Other days, other ways. Manners, today, are as far from Victorian ceremonials, as shingled Phyllis in hal f-a-frock, box-pleated, is far from Phyllida in her seven starched petticoats and whalebone bodice. Externals! Underneath, Phyllis is Phyllida still. Underneath, the fundamentals of manners, carved by generations of gently- bred people out of habits and traditions, are unchanged and unchanging. To know these things that do not change gives poise; unself- conscious ease; unarrogant assurance; a delicate precision in the handling of anything from a porcelain teacup to an international contretemps at dinner! It is poise that one derives from Vogue’s Book of Etiquette. | Vogue’s Book of Etiquette covers, in its thirty-two delightfully written chapters, all the more intricate ins-and-outs of social | practise today. But besides answering the special questions of | the moment, Vogue makes clear the principles on which they are based; on which one may build poise enough, assurance enough, to deal gracefully, and adequately, with any question of eti- quette, at any time. This poise is nine-tenths of social confidence, and eight-tenths VOGUE'S BOOK OF ETIQUETTE The foundation of good breeding; formal and informal entertaining; distinction in dress, speech and correspondence; alterations in present- | day social usage; and many other questions are set forth in Vogue’s | new Book of Etiquette. By the editors of Vogue, the acknowledged | court of authority in America on all debatable niceties of good form. To order by mail, use this coupon VOGUE 19 West 441TH Street, New York Please send me one copy of Vogue’s Book of Etiquette. I enclose $4. ee V 10-15-25 Octo HI son That w than be and no will dor of your Mode new we differen known. It wil you ha never r of dirt have ni to you! Just will be The nz of mat ing au moval It is There It b wome! fibre a you'll Klee flat | your Bou 6 by Prof 9 by ‘

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IGUE October 15, 1925 164a Madam—Please accept a 7-day supply of this amazing new way of removing cleansing cream A way that will double the effectiveness of your “make-up” That will correct oily nose and skin conditions amazingly That will make your skin seem shades lighter than before The ONLY way yet discovered that removes all dirt, grime and germ-laden accumulations in gentle safety to your skin HIS offers a test that will effect some unique results on your skin. That will make it seem shades lighter than before. That will correct oily skin and nose conditions amazingly. That will double and triple the effectiveness of your “make-up.” Modern beauty science has found a new way to remove cold creaam...a different way from any you have ever known. It will prove that no matter how long you have used cold cream, you have never removed it, and its accumulation of dirt, entirely from your skin... have never removed it in gentle safety to your skin. Just use the coupon. A 7-day supply will be given you without charge. What it ts The name is KLEENEX ... a totally new kind of material, developed in consultation with lead- ing authorities on skin care, solely for the re- moval of cleansing cream. It is the first absorbent made for this purpose. There is no other like it. It banishes the soiled towel method that all women detest. It contrasts the harshness of fibre and paper substitutes with a softness that you'll love. Kleenex comes in exquisite flat handkerchief boxes, to fit your dressing table drawer +++ in two sizes. Boudoir size, sheets 6 by z7inchs . . . 35¢ Professional, sheets Qby 10inchs .. 65¢ KLEENEX Sanitary Cold Cream Remover ‘No more soiled towels No more harsh substitutes removing cold cream Instead of towels, cloths or harsh fibre, paper makeshifts, you use this deliciously soft new material — 27 times as absorbent! a ex s ‘| Then —remove every bit of germ-laden matter, every particle of dirt, simply by wiping off face. Then — especially the nose, so that it will be white and without shine. Then — you discard it — no more soiling of towels! Exquisitely dainty, immaculate and inviting; you use it, then discard it. White as snow and soft as down, it is 27 times as absorbent as an ordinary towel; 24 times as any fibre or paper makeshift! Stops oily skins .. . Combats imper- fections . . . Lightens the skin On the advice of skin specialists, women today are flocking to this new way. By removing ALL dirt and grime, it will give your skin a tone three or more shades whiter than before. That’s because old methods failed in absorbency. They removed but part of the cream and grime. The rest they rubbed back in. That is why your skin may seem several shades darker some- times than it really is, It will correct skin and nose oiliness. For an oily skin indicates cold cream left in the skin. The pores exude it con- stantly. That’s why you must “powder” now so frequently. That’s why, too, imperfections often come. This new way corrects those failures of oid ways. One day’s use will prove its case beyond doubt. Send the coupon Upon receipt of it a full 7-day supply will be sent you without charge. Or ... obtain a packet at any drug or de- partment store. Put up in 9x10-inch sheets as exquisitely as fine handkerchiefs. Boxes that fit into flat drawers of vanity tables . .. a month’s supply in each. Costs only a few cents. KLEENEX CO., V.-10-15 167 Quincy St., Chicago, IIL. ‘|| Please send without expense to me a sample packet of KLEENEX as offered. Name ij: Address

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i lotb ' eee How the Society Woman, the Debutante, Meets the Demands of Daily ; Modern Life A WR RON e ee By ELLEN J. BUCKLAND, Graduate Nurse ROM morning until midnight! A luncheon, a lecture, a dinner, the opera... a hygienic handi- cap that is real... yet never the precious charm of a moment lost! Thousands of women, whose lives direct the social calendar, employ this new way which so exquisitely supplants the uncertainty of the old- time “sanitary pad” with a calm assurance of utter immaculacy. Your daintiest frocks, your filmiest of gowns . wear them now in security. The modern woman lives every moment, of every day, unhandicapped. New Advantages You'll Appreciate

This new way in solving woman's oldest hygienic problem enables one to live each day as it comes—__ | exquisite, immaculate, confident, even under the most trying of conditions.

You ask for them by name, and without hesi- tancy, simply by saying—Kotex. If you have not tried Kotex, please do. It will make a great difference in your life, in your view- point, in your peace of mind and health. 60% of many ills, common to women, according to many leading medical authorities, are traced to the use of unsafe and unsanitary makeshift You'll appreciate these 3 factors

(1) Utter protection — Kotex absorbs @

16 times its own weight in mois- ture; 5 times that of the ordinary cotton pad, and it deodorizes, thus assuring double protection.

No laundry. As easy to dispose of as a piece of tissue—thus end- ing the trying problem of disposal. Y C i; (o)

m : : th This new way embodies three factors of importance methods. ; P q women’s rest-rooms by The West Disinfecting Co. 0 a at easily as a piece of tissue GIRDL PROTECTS—DEODORIZES

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rbs ois- ary ZeS, ion. fan) ppe derk ad as issue October 15, 1925 OUTHFUL ~§SLENDERy but FEMININE HE Fall styles require the silhouette of youth, slender but feminine. The silhouette a Modart Combination gives — the long, smooth line from bust toknee. * 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 9 9 The Modart Combination is light, soft and comfortable, yet gives just the necessary figure control that good breeding and good form require. Slips on like a coat, can be washed and ironed like any fine undergarment, made in beautiful silk figured brocades and batistes and sold in all the better stores at from $5.00 to $15.00 according to the material. Just ask the cor- setiere for a Modart One-Piece Combination. + + + + + »# MODART CORSET COMPANY Factory: Saginaw, Michigan New York Office: 362 Fifth Ave. JWODART “FIGURE-GROOMING" GIRDLES - CORSETS - COMBINATIONS - BRASSIERES 165 This is the latest slightly fitted model topcoat ona the new suggestion of flare. Shawl collar and cuffs of raccoon. Mannish pockets. Choice 4 shades of fine Shagmoor wool- EXCLUSIVE ens;-plain, diagonal or derring- “etl bone. Full lmed with silk, —— Shaqmoor TOPCOATS h perpseacasn Topcoats are the choice of well-groomed women who appreciate fine clothes. The new and exclusive Shagmoor fabrics pro- vide warmth without weight. Made of selected, long, fine, even-textured strands of 100% pure virgin wool. Dust-proof, moisture-proof and wrinkle-proof. Expertly tailored to preserve their well-bred smartness. Every Shagmoor Topcoat bears the Shagmoor label. No other coat is a genuine Shagmoor. Ask your Shagmoor dealer to show you. the new models. Write for new Shagmoor fashion booklet, and we'll give you the name of a nearby shop where Shagmoor Topcoats may be purchased at pleasingly moderate prices. inder Bros. 498 Seventh Avenue aud 205 West 36th Street, New York INC,

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OY TT a 7 xO} Oa z) Pe, 2 ES 2 4 3 Fo) —(o} —S! WW C25 S Ni = = I Zi 2 g OA T_T ML Mm aN a LON TANT MIRACLE LOEWUS DOR (AU FIL DE CEAU) LE MATIN AU BOIS (MORNING IN THE WOODS) AviLineduc tena enatnaA ANNE nf imho AOTC OPIN TOA OOTY OT ee aT 245. RUE STHONORE.PARIS 389. FIFHTAVENUE_NEW-YORK -LENTHERIC VOGUE VENICE PUTS BEAUTY INTO LACE (Continued from page 162) co against the beauty of the Venetian sky, banishing fears and discontent, that lace making was taken up again. The lace industry reached its most flourishing period in the sixteenth century. Patterns were copied from Byzantine and Renaissance art, and it was every woman’s wish to possess a large number of pretty laces in all the different hand-made points. In the resplendent ballrooms of courtly palaces, in the Renaissance days, when social life called for the height of ele- gance in every line and detail, the most lovely and costly specimens of laces were worn over rich velvet gowns and luxuriously brocaded garments. In some old Venetian families, one may still see collections of these rare laces, in which there are superb hand- made trimmings for church vestments and some handsome altar coverings. The decline of the lace industry be- gan with the emigration of the Vene- tian lace makers into France, in 1664, when the famous French Minister, Colbert, in his desire to favour French industries, succeeded in drawing nu- merous labourers from foreign coun- tries and, with them, the secret of their artistic handicrafts. After the fall of the Venetian Republic, the lace indus- try completely ceased for a considerable time. THE REVIVAL OF LACE MAKING In 1872, however, owing to exces- sive unemployment, attempts were made to revive this artistic handicraft, which for so long had been the great pride of Venice. It was through the endeavours of Michelangelo Jesurum, Paolo Fambri, and Contessa Adriana Marcello that the first professional schools were founded in Venice, Pelles- trina and Burano. To-day they ex- tend to Chioggia and to the minor islands of the estuary and employ al- together over four thousand work- women, The work is for the greater part given out, thus enabling the women to work at home, not neglecting the care of their families. One can not, in fact, take many steps in the narrow alleys of the small island towns of the lagoon without seeing women at work over their laces. They frequent- ly sit on the door-mat or on tiny, flowered balconies and, sometimes, they are to be seen with their chairs in a row in the very streets and piazzas. They are usually young and pretty and not too absorbed in their work to catch the admiring glance of a passer-by. A FAMOUS SCHOOL The headquarters of the lace in- dustry in Venice are at the Queen Elena school, formerly the ancient and artistic Church of San Apollonia. It is just beyond the well-known Bridge of Sighs, at the Ponte Canonica which is reached in a few minutes from Piazza San Marco, the heart of Venice. Those tourists who visit Venice leisurely are, perhaps, ac- quainted with this place. For one may visit the Exhibition Galleries of the Jesurum Establishment, which is not unlike a museum in that there is absolute freedom to inspect the laces, without obligation to buy. I have had the pleasure of being shown through it most courteously by Signorina Jesurum, who personally supervises the work. When one first enters the spacious hall, which is reached by ascending steps at the en- trance, one can not help admiring the pretty picture it makes, for there are rows of women and girls sitting at their white, dainty work, deftly and deli- cately interweaving threads with needle and bobbin, while the architectural lines of the ancient church form an artistic background. “This, you see, is punto di Venezia,” and Signorina Jesurum picked up a pretty collar for me to admire, “and this is a lace worked by the yard and exclusively to order. It is very fine and expensive—three thousand lire a yard!” And she handed me another delicate bit to look at. On a table a little further on, a lovely table-cloth was spread out. “Do you like it? Isn’t it beautiful? Burano point and filet; these small roses here are Michelangelo point. Very difficult work, Madame. It took a hundred women almost six months to make it.” A label on it marked a price run- ning intd several figures, but I scarcely knew whether to be more astonished at the fortune required to purchase such a creation or at its artistic effect. Passing from room to room, I gazed in admiration upon a profusion of lovely handicraft, chair-covers, centre- pieces, and transparent window-hang- ings in their delicate net, on which large griffons or flowery branches were most skilfully worked. Among other things, Signorina Jesurum ex- plained to me the difference between Italian and French filet-—the network of the latter being made by a machine and, therefore, sold at a lower price. She also told me how Chinese filet brought about competition because of the low cost of labour in that country. PERFECTION OF WORKMANSHIP “But,” she added, smiling, “It is well to be suspicious of what is offered at an inferior price, because the cost depends largely upon the quality and the perfection of workmanship, for it is not enough that the designs be similar or even equal; it is necessary when comparing an article to notice the perfection and regularity of the work in detail.” A lovely array of cushions, blouses, and bags, either all in lace or combined with silks and embroideries, was dis- played before me, showing all the different points, from the capricious punto di Milano, the strong punto di Spagna, to the fairy delicacy of the Valenciennes, Fidndres, and Paris. I was glad to learn that Americans formed a large percentage of the cus- tomers of the Jesurum lace manufac- tory, thus proving, apai- from the fact that the rate of exchange is greatly in their favour, that the American woman's taste for beautiful and artistic work is still alive, despite the tendency to grasp what produces most effect with the least possible strain on the pocketbook. I was also shown through the schoo! of design, where skilful hands were re- producing designs from old parchments and paintings. They are capable of executing any form or design, I was told, many of the designs of the pre- cious Byzantine marbles in San Marco's church having been carefully repro- duced. Raphael’s painting, ‘The Hours,” and many of his other works have been copied. Canova’s works have also been used as subjects. Besides the many manufactories and schools of bobbinet and other laces, on the island of Pellestrina, there is a museum of old and modern lace. It is the only one in Europe, and it is worthy of a special visit, which proves (Continued on page 168) in wi SH Nev ATL Bir) Bos Brit Bur 4 Cri Cinc CLE Cont

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4 le il? all nt. It six in- ely 1ed ase ct. zed of tre- ng- ich hes ong een ork line ‘ice. filet of try. | is sred cost and r it be sary ytice the 1Se€Ss, ined dis- the ious o di the cans cus- ifac- fact ly in nan’s rk is rasp . the 00k. choo! e re- nents le of was pre- urco Ss epro- “The works ; have s and es, On is a It is it is proves October 15, 1925

“HAIG” A distinctive oxford of semi-sport type, shown in Marigold Mellow Calf, with welt sole and low rubber hee! SHOPS and AGENCIES New York, N.Y. Atianta,Ga. M. Rich & Bros. Co BirnMINGHAM, ALA. Hirsch Millinery Co. *158 Tremont Street. Boston, Mass. BriDGEPORT, CONN. Howland Dry Goods Co. BurFFALo, N. Y. Adam, Meldrum & Anderson Co. *4610-12 Sheridan Rd. Jos. Pietzuch Co. Pocock-Wolfram. Dunlap Shoe Co. Daas, Tex. A. Harris & Co. Inc. Cnur1caco, IL. CincInnaATI, OHIO CLEVELAND, OHIO Co.tumsBus, OHIO *32-34 W. 34th St. To Obtain What You Want in Your Shoes Serx first the assurance of the name, QUEEN QUALITY, which identifies America’s best-known make, and associates the makers with the store in responsibility for your satisfaction. At QuEEN Qua.ity shops and agencies you will find what you want in your shoes—correct style, perfect fit, and service assured by this Trade Mark on every pair. Thousands of leading stores are now showing the latest QUEEN QUALITY creations. Visit any of those listed below, or write for the addresses of others more convenient to ‘you. “SLITE” A modish one-strap design in Patent Leather, with the correct covered wood heel and light, flexible sole

Detrorr, Micn. *1417 Woodward Ave. EvaNnsvIiLLeE, IND. Salm Bros, Fort Worth, Tex. Monnig Dry Goods Co. Fresno, Car. E. Gottschalk & Co. Inc, Granp Rapips, Mic. Charles Trankla & Company. HARTFORD, CONN. Brown, Thomson & Co, Houston, Tex. Foley Bros. Dry Goods Co, INDIANAPOLIS, IND. Rink’s Cloak House, Inc. LExINGTON, Ky. S. Bassett & Sons,

REG.US PAT.OFF TGP CO GAMOUS SHOES for WOMEN and YOUNG WOMEN

AT THESE AND OTHER LEADING STORES THROUGHOUT AMERICA Louisvi1z, Ky. | Mempuis, TENN. H Newark, N. J. THOMAS G. PLANT COMPANY, Makers 93 BickForD STREET, Boston 30, Mass., U.S. A. ZLCLAE “*EMPIRE” One-strap pump of lustrous Black Satin, with comfortable flexible sole and new London Louis wood heel

Los Ancetes, CAL. Broadway Dept. Store, Inc. *536 So. Fourth St. Bry-Block. MiaMI, Fi. Nankin’s Shoe Shop, NAsHVILLE, TENN. Castner-Knott Dry Goods Co. New Haven, Conn. The Gamble-Desmond Co. Bedell’s. New Onrteans, La. The Kreeger Store, Inc. OKLAHOMA City, OKLA. The Kerr Dry Goods Co.

*“CHARM” New gore pump in the favored India Tan Kid, Autumn Blonde Suede Quarter, flexible sole, covered wood heel

SHOPS and AGENCIES *235 Fifth Ave. RicHMoND, VA. The Cohen Co, Inc. Rocuester, N. Y. Gould, Lee & Webster, Inc. SAVANNAH, Ga. Leopold Adler. SPRINGFIELD, Mo. The Heer Stores Co. St. Louis, Mo. Brandt’s, Inc. Tampa, FLa. O. Falk's. Terre Haute, INp. The Root Dry Goods Co, To.epo, Oxn10 *501 Adams Street. Waco, Tex. The Goldstein-Migel Co. Wasuincrton, D.C. *1219 F Street, N. W.

PittspurGcH, Pa.

Prompt relief for tired, aching muscles YOUR own door at last, after a long wearisome shopping day! You're dead tired, rather cross, and aching in more places than you can count. Exhausted for the moment—but Absorbine, Jr. will take away the ache and tone the tired Apply it to forehead and back of neck,—to tired limbs and feet. A few drops in water will clear the unfriendly germs out of throat and mouth. muscles. j & You have the magic bottle in your bathroom for emergencies, cuts, sprains, bruises. It has another job—to keep you fit. “There's nothing like it for tense, tired, ach- ing muscles,” writes one woman. At all druggists, $1.25, or postpaid Send for free trial bottle W. F. YOUNG, Inc. Springfield, Mass. ee Absorbine sr. THE ANTISEPTIC LINIMENT

MM corsetry: that with too youthful. *Trademark Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. Price $1 250 Send for booklet, Department C, The Warner Brothers Company, 347 Madison Ave., N West Adams St., Chicago; 28 Geary St., San Francisco ew York City; 367 The New Art of Corsetry ANY a woman knows the trag- edy of the smart frock denied her by hips which are too large. Many also have learned an important secret of the new art of this Corselette*, 3309, no frock is too slim, too straight or Frese

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168 “ns 4 out of 5 now lose The law of averages is immu- table. Dental statistics prove that fourout of every fiveover 40—and thousands younger, too—are marred by Pyorrhea. Do you want to escape? It takes healthy gums to keep healthy teeth If you neglect your gums—let them get in a “run-down” condition — you may soon be numbered among Pyor- rhea’s countless victims. Bleeding gums are Nature's first warn- ing. Then the gums begin to recede, lose that rich, healthy pink color. Poi- sons collect in pus pockets and often drain through the entire system, caus- ing indigestion, anaemia, rheumatism and other serious diseases of mid-life. In the final stages the teeth loosen and fall out. Take no chances—use Forhan’s If used in time and used consistently, Forhan’s will prevent Pyorrhea, or check its progress—something ordinary tooth pastes are powerless to do. It contains just the right proportion of Forhan’s Astringent (as used by the dental profession in the treatment of Pyorrhea). It is safe, efficient and pleasant-tasting. Even if you don't care to discontinue your favorite den- tifrice, at least start using Forhan’s once a day. Forhan’s is more than a tooth paste; it checks Pyorrhea. Thousands have found it beneficial for years. For your own sake ask for Forhan’s For the Gums. All druggists, 35c and 6oc in tubes. Formula of R. J. Forhan, D. D. S. Forhan Company, New York More than a tooth paste— it checks Pyorrhea PM CU UCU sina Just as a ship needs the closest attention underthe water-line, so do your teeth un- der the gum-line TRADE MAR iil | pee il e i: il MARY, QUEEN OF HEARTS (Continued from page 160) sard on his lips and her window before his eyes. With Rizzio, it was different. He had his full of life before he met its bloody end. He ruled Scotland with Mary and Darnley for some years un- disturbed—save by the murmurings of an outraged people and the bellowings of an adamant Knox. Darnley was the weak member of the trio. Mary finally had a little iron stamp made with his signature on it, so that he need not sign too many papers nor know too much of what those papers contained. The situation was very simple until Darnley got to thinking about it too seriously. Then, in 1566, he and some of the noble lords broke in on a little supper party and murdered the unfor- tunate Italian—there, under the Queen’s eyes. Poor Mary, Rizzio had been the one bright companion in that Northern castle. She had known his kind at the sunny French Court. And now Darnley had taken him from her—and she said to Darnley, “A fatter grave will lie next his this time twelfthmonth.” She evidently inherited her father’s gift of accurate, evil prophecy. For just twelve months after that night, Darnley, who was now the father of Mary’s son (James I. of England), was strangled by the conspirators of Bothwell in the orchard of Kirk o’ the Field; and the palace itself, Pro- vost’s Place, went up in gunpowder. Mary may or may not have been guilty. Some say, “Yes,” and some, “No.” Let- ters found in a silver casket betrayed her; but her friends claimed those to be forgeries. However, scarcely had the scandal blown over, than she married Bothwell. This was too much for Knox and the people. Bothwell already had one wife still married to him and two in the divorced or deserted background. He was a Scottish lord turned pirate, a thundering, blustering corsair, with one eye and fewer manners. The people of Scotland ran him out of the country. And they put Mary in Lochleven Cas- tle, on its watergirt bit of island. Already the curtain was falling on the glory of Mary. Her court was scat- tered; her jewels were left here and there, insecure in their hiding places. She had bestowed a fortune of them on Bothwell when he rode away. But the red enamel wedding-ring of Darnley, the pear-shaped pearl earrings—which figured as tokens in her escape from VENICE PUTS BEAUTY INTO LACE (Continued from page 166) interesting, as well as enjoyable, for the route is across a very beautiful part of the lagoon and the steamboats leave and return five times a day, making each trip in one and a half hours. Royalty has always patronized the Venetian lace industry. Queen Mar- gherita possesses some of its loveliest productions. In fact, her famous col- lection of laces is well known in the United States, as well as in Italy, since, at an exhibition some years ago, many of her most beautiful laces were ex- hibited there. In 1906, a number of orders were executed for the Czar of Russia, and, in 1914, just before the great European War, the ex-Kaiser Wilhelm IT. visited the Jesurum Establishment. His sig- nature is to be seen in an album, side by side with that of Victor Emanuel III., followed by the date, March 25, 1914. To-day, it is quite an historical document, for, but a short time later, VOGUE Lochleven—, the ruby tortoise given her by Rizzio, and the diamond shaped like a rock, which Elizabeth had sent her asa pledge of help in time of troulle ——these she had with her. It had gone better with Mary had she thrown this last into the waters of the lake, as Douglas did the keys of the casile when he rowed her away from it. For Mary foolishly relied on Elizabeth's friendship. “Have we not interchanged love and rings—mine a heart, hers a rock?” Against the protests of her followers, she fled to England. The he sun that sank behind Scottish waters that night was the sun of Mary’s power, She never saw Elizabeth’s face in 4] her nineteen years in England. Tut she saw Elizabeth’s prisons one after another. Her cortége grew smaller, at Queen Bess’s command. Her hair grew grey, and the faithful Mary Seton dressed it with ever-lustrous borrowed tresses. Nor did she lose her charm, though worn out by cold castles and scant luxuries. Her gaolers fell in love with her. The Papists centred about her. Her Protestant son, godson of Elizabeth, ceased writing to her. But always Mary schemed—plots here, plots there. | One last plot—which, the chances are, y was arranged entirely for Mary’s down- fall and of which Mary was blameless— proved the final straw. It was bruited that Mary sought Elizabeth’s. life, Treason! The person of the Queen of England is in danger. Then the traitor must die. Thus, Mary was condemned to be beheaded. Her little group of fol- lowers were prostrate with grief. But Mary took it as calmly, as evenly, as she had taken all the ups and downs of her adventurous career. She laboriously compiled her will—remembering each servant and loyal friend in her train, To the throne of Scotland, she left the most valuable of her jewels, including the famous diamond, Great Harry, given her by Henri II. She wrote letters to all those dearest to her—!etters of poignant beauty. She eyen wrote a fare- well to Elizabeth, which, it is said, brought tears to the harsh queen’s eyes. So the final day came. And the last touch of pathos and devotion one hears of Mary, Queen of Scots, is that her little dog, following his mistress into the execution chamber, hid under her skirts and had to be dragged away, when it was over. their two countries were warring against each other. During the late War, the lace makers laid aside their delicate handicraft, sub- stituting work in wool for the soldiers, their hearts and talents completely given up to the needs of the mo- ment, absorbed in the welfare of the nation. ; Though the Jesurum lace establish ment has several branch houses in other cities of Italy and in one or two other countries, one must visit some of the schools and manufactories of Venice and the neighbouring isles in order t0 appreciate fully the high degree of pe fection attained by the indusiry ° hand-made Venetian lace. It is really the only way for Americans, as well a8 for all foreigners, to become acquainted with this characteristic industry of the Venetian lagoon, the artistic handicraft of which is much admired in Italy and other countries.

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October 15, 1925 TS given HIE INVISIBLE Gann “pie =REAM FoR? alae |! oars : When you have achieved your individual troulle —\ cr = a a - coiffure, preserve its intriguing charm with d gone , wife ns . : ; ;: : ie this »/| GS y J Sig ahs" : __ aGainsborough Hair Net This nécessité ke, ; : i} oO)! ~~. Ns soi ? yale ‘acs Dd A Mode Created for {the accepted choice of those who create it For ae “33 ¥ Hair of any Length coiffure styles) lends an invisible charm— abethi’s al | ae Coiffure by M ered i oe 4 siffare by MADAME LOUISE ee eer hers a a of her ‘ | 1é waters power, e in all 1. But e alter ler, at b | ir grew « « - smoothes away the weary lines Seton ® rrowed charm, les and in love 1 ab te BOOKLET— BEAUTY ITS ATTAINMENT AND PROTECTION*’ ON REQUEST. 5 lson of r. But . here, OS : fee a5. : Ices are, ae ; down- neless— bruited ’s life, ueen of i ; f : : #; 3 A » traitor | : 5 ae ‘ ae ; ( JD demned ——— — — ‘ es sailed b - : wk, ea > | : » of fol- i ae a a ae aa peas HAIR NET ef. Bu fh caall = — BF e., ei “Mhe Net of the Life-Like Lustre enly. as om J: & owns al : : gtges THE WESTERY ©O . CHICAGO: NEW YORK—WECO PRODUCTS CO.. LIMITED. TORONTO oriously : ng each r train. left the cluding Harry, fe letters tters of > a fare- is said, n’s eyes, the last ne hears that her ess into ider her 1 away, Canadian Price Same a u ‘ 4. —— ~~ 40 WEST 57TH ST. NEW YORK APPOINTMENTS CIRCLE 4600 SKIN AND SCALP TREATMENTS \ ¢ K & 7 oo Supreme Achievement in Modern Corsetry DAINTINESS WITH COMFORT rhe sa oes warring » makers aft, sub- soldiers, mpletely the mo- e of the stablish- in other WO other e of the fF Venice order to e of per- us ry of 4 really well as » rinted ry of the an dicraft [ta ly and Only with the Franco “Rose- Marie” can Madame achieve the supreme comfort of a brassiere firmly attached to the corset—plus the personal daintiness which demands fre- quent laundering of the bras- siere. The brassiere (of superior sat- in or silk milanese) is quick- ly detachable for laundering. The silk brocaded corset, with form-fitting Kenlastic sides, affords a perfect mold for the fashionable gown. A true-fitting ‘‘Rose-Marie” model awaits you at your favorite shop. FRANCO CORSET CO., Inc. 902 Broadway New York “That is Mrs...’ A name everyone knows. A name to: conjure with. A name which sets the seal of social prestige on any guest-list. For once, Shakespeare was wrong. Everything’s in a name. Every woman knows that to be true —the name of a Parisian’ modiste; of an Avenue jeweler; of a famous motor-car builder . .. of toiletware. You see the name, “Pyralin”— and there’s an instant little thrill of assuring recognition. Du Pont Viscoloid Co., Inc. 21 East 40th Street, New York City @ POND Lyralin: The Titled, Jotletware ; The name Pyralin on every piece ~ 4

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Guer gied © FF yo ‘ we and sSpuinc® hey eneke p gre ow » yo" catraly moderate p?, 3 Spy sac ® He Petter shops se og ef ci0d ° & TILFORD, New York, Sole American Distributors In Canada. LYMANS. Ltp., Montreal

VOGUE THE PARIS OPENINGS (Continued from page 67) Molyneux and Worth trim their long leather coats with fur collars, Furs are lavishly used at all the houses and have much to do with giving bulk to the silhouette. The couturiers, apparently, have a very catholic taste in furs, insisting on no particular sort or colour. Painted gazelle, fox, mole, beaver, nutria, natural seal, and rabbit are seen with particular frequency. Bear is used by several houses. Chipmunk, mink, skunk, swan’s-down, ermine, kol- insky, dyed and natural, chinchilla, leopard, shaved lamb, marten, breit- schwantz, krimmer, goat, squirrel, even monkey, mongolie, astrakhan, and baby lamb play their part in a very furry mode. Of dyed furs, there are legion—vivid blue, orange, red, yellow, and purple rabbit; brown, blue, mauve, and red mole; orange fox; brown and white civet. Brown rabbit is painted with white dots. Furs extensively used for collars and cuffs, bands, revers, and patches. It is in patches that the cleverness of the couturiers is most clearly seen. These are in godet shape on the skirt, giving fulness, in stalactite design, in deep curving bands on skirt bottoms, in incrustations on sleeves. Most of the patches are cut in novel and ingenious shapes. Two furs frequently ‘combined on the same coat or dress. Somecimes, two are worked together in the interests of design. Lanvin combines three furs. NEW BODICES Bodices are unusually varied. A few of them are cut straight. Many of them blouse over defined hips, while others are slightly fitted. Usually, both those that blouse and those that are fitted are intricately cut. Their length varies from almost the natural waist-line to a point just below the hips. The bolero is used by several houses. Sometimes, there is a. little coat effect only at the sides; again, only the back has a bolero cut. And, on some frocks, the bolero appears both at back and front. Wings and jabot effects continue to be used. SKIRT LENGTHS AND NECK-LINES Skirts remain short, this shortness varying with the houses, from just under the turn of the knee to the mid- dle of the calf of the leg. This latter length is seen only in a few instances. In general, the evening hem-line is slightly longer. There are many scal- loped hem-lines for both day and eve- ning, and hem-lines for evening are often irregular — through draperies, panels, and flying appendages. The longer-in-back line appears in both day and evening frocks. Neck-lines show great diversity. The oval and the deep V are, perhaps, the most seen for evening, and they are usually much lower in the back. Some very good gowns have a décolletage of great intricacy of cut, with cut-out straps. There are many dresses of the more formal type with shoulder-straps and the straight underarm cut. The bateau neck rarely appears in day or evening frocks. The V, the round, and the high round line with a tiny collar are the most popular for daytime. In many of the collections appear dresses with high, snugly buttoned collars. Some of these are boned. JUMPERS AND TUNICS Many sports ensembles, day frocks, and short-coat suits have jumpers in fabrics or colours that match or con- trast. Many of these jumpers are in white crépe or satin and some in lamé¢, Tunics persist, but appear with less frequency. A popular form of tunic is in coloured lamé, cut Persian fashion and with small all-over Persian distri- bution and motif. THE SMART SLEEVES Sleeves are long or omitted entirely. The bishop sleeve used by Worth and the puff used by Louiseboulanger are exceptions. Louiseboulanger also shows a three-quarters-length sleeve that hangs loosely, without a cuff. Some sleeves fit the forearm snugly, with or without wrinkles; some are slightly full above a tight cuff; and some hang loosely. As a general rule, they are more apt to be subtly cut than greatly orna- mented, with the exception of those on coats that are trimmed with fur. YOKES AND BELTS The yoke has a firm place in the mode, in coats, capes, and dresses. It is more simple in cut than last season. The set-in belt is much seen, some- times circling the body and sometimes going only part way, and these belts often serve for the introduction of ful- ness. Girdles are soft and frequently wrapped in gipsy fashion, defining the hips. The straight belt is also with us, usually placed at a low waist-line and often dropping slightly in back. Moly- neux uses this belt and frequently covers it almost completely with a gen- erously blousing bodice. JEWELLED AND BEADED DRESSES Jewelled and beaded dresses are im- portant in the more formal evening mode. They are boldly and lavishly em- broidered in a great variety of patterns, The small all-over motif is not so much seen as those that are large and defi- nitely outlined. These designs are romantic, conventional, and futuristic. Often, jewels and beads in several sizes and of several sorts are combined. In contrast to these are the all-over paillette dresses of Chanel, in bright colour and gold and silver, trimmed with paillette flowers. The Callot dresses embroidered in Chinese design are of traditional loveliness, while Vionnet has a secret of embroidering dresses that is all her own. Oriental and geome.rical influences are strong- est in embroideries, but, this season, embroidery is not generally used. It appears only at certain houses, where it is used with great skill. For example, Callot employs Chinese designs in sub- tle tones, usually dulled by a greyish cast. Vionnet uses geometrical designs. ENSEMBLES Ensembles continue, for both day and night wear. The coat and frock match in colour, fabric, trimming, oF line, but seldom in all four ways. COATS FOR THIS WINTER The full-length coat is so universally seen as to be the rule. The three- quarters-length and __ seven-eighths- length appear by way of exception. Coats are seldom straight and are usu- ally fur trimmed. The circular cut 1s the most popular device for the intro- duction of fulness, though some models have pleats. Coats, like dresses, are characterized by intricacy of cut and are interestingly trimmed with fur patches. Many are fur-lined. Practl- ( Continued on page 172)

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are in | lamé, th less unic is ashion distri- itirely, th and er are shows thangs sleeves vithout above oosely, re apt orna- those th fur. in the ses. It season, some- 1etimes e belts of ful- juently ing the rith us, ne and Moly- juently a gen- SES ire im- vening ily em- itterns, ) much d defi- 1s are uristic. several nbined, ll-over bright ‘immed Callot design while idering riental strong- season, ed. It where cample, in sub- greyish lesigns. th =day 1 frock ing, or s. versally three- ighths- seption. re usu- - cut is » jntro- models es, are ut and th fur Practi- ) October 15, 1925 8 AAP SAE OSS EE ELD OLE EEL IEE I. I. LITWINSKY, THE LINEN STORE, Inc.- CHICAGO * (os beautifully illustrated catalog with its colorful cover and its marvelous display of selected pieces is an inspiration to every one who loves and ap- preciates the better linens. May we send you a copy? # € LI Fitwins 16 S° Michiéan Boulevard Naturally, You Love Beautiful Linens ‘topes woman with pride in her home who doesn’t cherish her precious supply of linens and wish to add to them as the op- portunity offers? I. I. Lrrwinsky has enjoyed for years the reputa- tion of supplying the most discriminating women in America with linens for the home. Mail orders are given the same conscientious service as though you were shopping in person. © ~[ Many unusual pieces suitable for gifts will be found ] - in the catalog, which we will gladly send on request SI Litroinshy THE LINEN STORE Inc. 36 So. Michigan Boulevard University Club Building Chicago 171 as) SS hibbes (andies os Society’s Smartest Sweet Al Jolson is right. You still have something to see—and taste. Social Whirls—marshmallow clouds in creamy whirls of caramel and chocolate. Sliced and packed in the world’s most amazing box. 5 lbs. of heavenly whirls of deliciousness for two dollars. Call up your dealer—or send us your check—they will be whirled from the kettle to you the day they are made. KIBBE BROS. SPRINGFIELD, MASS. Butlers’ Outfits Coat, Vest and Trousers $50 AFTERNOON Black cloth. coat and double breasted vest, dark grey, striped, worsted trousers. Cor- rect in every detail for afternoon EVENING Dress coat, regulation vest and trousers to match, of black dress worsted. The conven- tional cloth and cut for Butlers evening dress Bull Brsthers Broadway at 49th St., N. Y. Send for Booklet Showing Correct Dress %

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Illustrated: Pompeian Coffee Pot, Sugar and (ream. “Below: After Dinner (off.e Spoon, reauced size. pattern that lends enchantment to the coffee hour HE is a wise hostess, indeed, who selects Pompeian for the coffee hour. For this is one of those rarest of patterns that has the quality of being ornate, minus the tendency to obtrude itself upon one’s consciousness. Only the skilled hand-craft, for which Reed & Barton have been famous for over one hundred years, could have put this ap- pealing beauty into Pompeian. Ask to see this pattern at your jeweler’s today. Made in flatware as well as hollow ware, it is a fine example of Reed & Barton quality in silver plate. REED & BARTON, Taunton, Mass. “ESTABLISHED OVER. 100 ~ PLATEG sat PARTS cally every collection shows fur revers and wide or narrow bands of fur around the bottom of the coat. How- ever, the coat with a fur collar and perhaps, the smartest aspect. Prom- inent fur decoration at the back of black satin coats appears at Chéruit’s and at Worth’s. THE NEW SUITS Practically every collection has a series of short-coated tailleurs. These are in the mannish woollens, velours de laine, and all the materials with a slightly rough surface. The coats vary from hip length to _ three-quarters length. Those between the two are, perhaps, most frequently seen. They appear with and without fur. Jumpers in white crépe satin and lamé accom- pany them. Some of these suits have slip-on coats.that serve without a blouse. The skirts are often box-pleat- ed or made with fulness obtained by gathers concentrated at one place, or they are slightly circular in front, back, or all around. All of these suits are youthful. Capes appear in limited numbers for evening wear, and isolated examples are seen for day wear. Some very smart coats have cape backs, half-cape backs, or cape sleeves. The cape back seldom extends to the hem, but usually stops at the hips. COLOURS FOR THE NEW SEASON Black continues to appear in abun- dance, both unrelieved and trimmed with colour. White appears for eve- ning. All of the blues in the bright and greyish tones are seen, but navy-blue is less used than was generally ex- pected. The wine-reds and russets are well represented, as are the bright reds for evening. ‘The tans, red-browns, and tannish-beiges are popular woollen shades. The whole gamut of the greens appear—yellow-greens, blue-greens, and deep pure greens. The rose shades, more vivid than pale, are popular eve- ning tones, Multicolour is seldom seen, save in a few instances in printed vel- vet and brocaded lamé. MUFFS Muffs are sponsored by several houses. They vary in size from medi- um small to medium large and are round in shape. They are made of the flat furs, such as beaver, mole, mink, and sable. CALLOT Callot Sceurs preserve from year to year their thoroughbred pace, their superlative standard of taste. They are unique in that, every season, they produce the same type of dresses of traditional good taste, and yet dresses that are completely aware of the trend of the times. The successes of each collection appear in new and subtle guise in the collections that follow them, never iosing a sort of infinite variety. This variety is amazing. Never for a moment is the individualty of the house lost, yet here are found dresses of such diversity that practically any woman of refinement and breeding can find a Cal- lot expression of her own particular needs. This is a house of great documental knowledge, but the designers possess sensitiveness to such a degree that they never betray by line or treatment - the inspiration they find in the past and embody in modern dresses. They have a talent for revivifying tradition. cuffs and fur patches on the skirt has, ~ VOGUE OPENINGS (Continued from page 170) Certainly, if there were a museum de- voted to the development of costumes, the creations of Callot would have a prominent place in it. As. a result, one receives the im- pression at this collection of a swiftly moving panorama of grace, colour, and life, all animated by the same spirit. Lamé, silks, furs, ribbons, flowers, col- ours, beads, familiar as they are, are given a new meaning each season under Callot treatment. Their gracious tulle dresses of generous proportion undulate with the poetry of body motion. Their creations in the heavier fabrics have this same supple quality. This qual- ity is due, in a measure, to their faculty of unerring choice of materials, whether simple or complex. Rounding out a perfect whole of gifts is their sense of colour, which has given rise to a distinctive colour card that can only be described as Callot and which runs the gamut of all shades. VIONNET Dressmaking under the guidance of Madame Vionnet is as plastic an art as sculpture. The collection of this house has a tremendous influence on the present mode, for it is here that the anatomical cut reaches its highest de- velopment. Every turn and twist of the scissors is manipulated to permit and accentuate body motion and ex- pression. And all is accomplished with the ease of perfection. Every dress undulates as its wearer walks, and there is a feeling of soft breezes waving and blowing the cleverly manipulated fabrics. Here, one finds the most complete development of that newest of silhouettes—the one in which the bodice is cut to ripple, to blouse in subtle folds, and, at the same time, to define the trunk of the body. The hips below this loose bodice are placed in sharp relief by definitive and skilful cut. Below the hips, the skirt falls in a slen- der line that is graceful with motion. Another silhouette offered in seem- ing opposition to the one with the slen- der hips has a bulge at the hips from a softly fitted bodice. The resultant line resembles the robe de style, but possesses a bouffancy that exhibits rather than hides the body beneath. Fulness is imposed on the most curved part of the body. The fabrics through which Vionnet expresses herself are varied—kasha, velvet, satin, crépe, lamé, fur—, but they are all handled with consummate skill. Kasha is cut to fall like velvet. Fur has the grace of chiffon. Fringe _ is usually like fabric. And, whether a frock be for evening or for sports, it has an age-old subtlety, an elusive quality of sophistication that defies analysis. It is as though the distance between the old Greek idea of body rhythm and freedom in costume and the more com- plicated modern one had been bridged in a single collection. LOUISEBOULANGER Outstanding in this collection are great imagination, mastery of cut, a perfect colour sense, and a tremendous awareness of the trend of the times. Gowns here always contain ideas. ar- ticulately expressed in a feminine man- ner. This is a house of accent, now subtle—now strong. Hips are accented ; shoulders are accented; fulness is ac- cented. The eccentricities of cut, the lavish use of massed fulness, the exag- gerations of line and proportion are all controlled by an intelligence that seeks above all things the expression of slim youth and vitality. (Continued on page 174) Octo % Seetecaces PTTTTTITITLATITITIITITIITIIITTiitiiiii Lili ee ssaseees brings hesitar

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eeseee Saneceecaseces rseeeen eeceseaes eee. . omens "( SN XY 2) We yy oO) SEX S Oe iia Nici 6 Bs 1b be short waist figure. With six garters , " and four silk elastic sections, it gives Priceless Advantages of beauty and support ta perfect pe to the : : wearer. The upper part, or brassiere, ‘ poise! See how swiftly and gently Neet, is made of satin finish Jersey and bro- cade diaphragm section. It can be the ready-to-use hair removing cream brings you thrilling lovelinessand charm. You will agree that no other the hour. Learn all that Neet method is so rapid and convenient, means to you. Buy Neet at your worn either together or separate. This same model may be obtained in Silk Jersey top with lower section made of plain heavy pink satin. No. 987. no other cream so thorough and drug or department store, today. satisfactory, as Neet. Especially for Test it critically. You will find it the larger surfaces of legs and an amazingly quick and gentle arms. With Neet you merely rinse method, the hair positively will not the hair away. Amazing new beauty come back thicker and coarser fol- of skin comes quickly. Without lowing its use. Note the whiteness slightest suggestions of having re- of underarm in contrast with dark- moved the offending hair. That is ened skin where harsh methods are why hundreds of thousands of used. Neet is 50c per tube and

mothers and daughters depend on sold always on the basis of com- > “— Neet always, for happy freedom to plete satisfaction or money back. ; wear what they will. The most More than 35,000 Druggists sell , pe gaara of ty nig Fl Neet. —t, Drug ee ye B + . ose, yie greatest delight. he Store has Neet or w gladly ge’ “Ty ° ° 99 RASSIERE close contact at dances, parties, it for you. Hannibal Pharmacal Directoire Corset Brassiere oll-14en00)1.12 brings no moments of fear, of Co., St. Louis, Mo. hesitancy to thrill to the spirit of ce ee ee ee ee

Very Special Mail coupon for our New Style | G. M. POIX,* Inc., 98 Seventh Avenue, ———_— —___ Booklet giving information on Brooklyn, N. Y. Ask your Neet , desler for IMMAC prevailing styles, choice of models ditieeiciand pcan geet mo — figure — ee Kindly send me your FREE Style Booklet, inty, sn on how to retain beauty of figure ae with comfort. All models shown in the booklet were designed by

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SLADIES@ RE you a short woman ? If so, you know the difficulty of obtaining coats that fit you correctly, coats that suit your personality. You have been troubled by tiresome, unsatisfactory alterations. Perhaps you have despaired of ever finding ready-made coats to meet all your re- quirements. But Little Cady (oats give the answer to all your problems. Little Lady Coats fit with practically no alterations. Developed in the newest styles, cleverly adapted to Solving the Small Woman’s Problem the small woman’s person- ality, moderately priced— allthat youhavelongsought in coats. The Little Lady label is your guide to coats that are styled right and pricedright for you. On request we will gladly send you the names of the merchants in your city who sell {ittle Lady (Coats—together with our new Catalogue showing the latest fashions for small women. Write today—and your coat problems will soon be correctly solved. KNOBEL & BLOOM, 229 W. 36th St., NEW YORK In the more tailored day clothes, the shoulders are stressed. Often, the cut is raglan, but raglan cut in such a man- ner that shoulder width persists. Loose- ly draped V-neck collars of cloth are also a means to emphasize shoulder width, as are plain, narrow, V-neck bands. The heavier woollens, especial- ly in diagonal weave, kasha (plain and ombré), and velours de laine are fa- vourite day fabrics. Horizontal stripes create an impression of width. The ribbed silks are also used. In day clothes, hips are frequently emphasized by gathers. A much-seen hip and girdle treatment is a diagonal, one-sided peplum effect, draped on the wide side. A peplum type of girdle appears in the frock on page 68. Aiding and abetting fulness and so- phisticated silhouette is cut, but never the short cut. The diagonal cut from the front of the underarm across the frock, sometimes extending to the hem- line, is characteristic. A distinguished bodice cut developed in satin is one in which the lower part of the bodice, which sharply defines the figure in back, becomes two wide bands from the sides, crosses up the front, and ties loosely in back, after making the draped collar. The evening dresses are the glori- fication of fluid silhouette and move- ment. Length of line, swooping curves and loops, and definite statement and concentration of bulk characterize them. Many are of satin of amazing sheen. LANVIN Lanvin is herself, at all times. Each collection is an expression of the logical development of that self. Hers is a pronounced, romantic spirit, coupled with a positive genius for the pictur- esque and an almost mathematical ex- actness of detail and sequence. Con- sequently, her robes de style, for which she has long been famous, are lovelier this year than ever and are a more complete development of this art in which she has long excelled. They pos- sess a floating, swan-like quality of grace that no one else attains. In this collection, as a result of the mathematical talent of its creator, the geometrical influence of the exposition is clearly discernible in the continued use of circles, dots, triangles, and other line designs of this type. The exposition shows its influence also in the lavish use of metal as trimming for both day- time and evening costumes and in dec- orations in lines and cords. The show- ing is further notable in this respect for its use of furs, two and even three sorts being used together. Some beau- tiful effects are achieved in ombré furs. Lanvin continues to introduce fulness in short skirts falling from under long tunics. In direct opposition to this are the dresses in which the focal point of fulness is the shoulders, from which the fulness falls with a clear swing. This designer also shows coats that fit snug- ly at the neck and then billow from there to a full hem-line. In harmony with this movement are the rounded coat corners which she continues to use. Lanvin’s great sense ‘of drawing is manifest particularly in her jewelled and beaded dresses, in which the dec- oration often begins high and then drips and loops with graceful precision. CHANEL From the point of view of good taste, simplicity, subtlety, and wearabii- ity, this collection is without peer. They are the clothes made by a well-dressed woman of unerring taste for well- dressed women the world over. This VOGUE THE PARIS OPENINGS (Continued from page 172) chic is international. Everything hap- pens easily, gracefully, and _ surely, without straining after effect. Chanel is so much in the movement of the moment that she does not have to try for novelty. She uses old ideas in a new way, new ideas that have quiet confidence. Among the latter is the bolero, which she employs at front, back, and-at both front and back. Sometimes, it appears at the side fron: only. This Zouave influence is felt in both day and evening frocks and, by swinging in opposition to skirts, gives intricate motion to the silhouette. The cape-back coat is an old idea developed in a masterly manner, and the sequin dress is another former suc- cess which Chanel makes into some- thing utterly unlike what has gone be- fore. The sequin dresses of the past were of the dowager type. This de- signer cuts them on youthful lines, following slightly the curves of the fig- ure, trims them in sequin flowers, and makes them in bright colours, such as red,deep pink, silver, and gold. To dresses made entirely of breit- schwantz, she gives the slender silhou- ette that one associates with the most soft and fluid fabrics. A dress of diag- onal cut velvet, in a small diagonal de- sign is an example of the best that can be done with cut velvet. In short, every- thing that Chanel touches turns to chic, She continues to use floating draper- ies with matchless skill. They appear usually on the sides, sometimes just on one side. When two appear, one is apt to be much longer than the other, as in the arrangement of the delightful fly-away draperies of the Chanel frock illustrated on page 66. They are usual- ly of the dress material, chiffon or lamé. There are many simple jumpers with what has become generally known as the Chanel silhouette. Some of these are in jersey. Kasha and crépella con- tinue to appear in this collection. Pleats large and small, checks (larger than those of the last collection), bows, skiris in tiers that are scalloped or straight, are all seen again, but without mo- notony. Her use of fur as trimming con- tinues to be in the simplest possible manner. CHERUIT Ideas, ideas, ideas—Chéruit abounds in them. This house is not only in the movement in fashion tendencies—it is often a little ahead of them. It is a house of invention in detail and silhou- ette, rich in imagination and largeness of outlook. There is little soft fulness, rather big, swooping curves made by heavy fab- rics folded upon themselves. The needle is quite as much responsible for this as is intricacy of cut. However, de- spite all the godets and curves, or, per- haps, more properly, because of them, the slender body line is omnipresent. Side fulness is a favourite, the sort that comes from a slightly fitted bodice and falls in heavy folds below, to flare and flare and flare. When the figure is in motion, this fulness often has a full, backward swing. There is almost a pendulum quality to some of it. Some- times, this side fulness is uneven, that is, on one side it may come from the bodice and on the other from the skirt. This diagonal tendency is also manifest in diagonal cut, through the body of the dress and at the hem-line. In addition to this side fulness, there is much hip accent in the way of or- namentation by means of flaps and pockets that emphasize the body in this region. Flaring of the lower silhoueite is well exemplified in a series of dresscs (Continued on page 176)

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Please send me illustrated folder 5 + § hap- urely, ent of ive to as in quiet s the front, back. front elt in d, by gives idea , and > SUC- ome- ie be- past s de- lines, fed Bromley Series Frock , and ? H i. $25 BRIDE’S CAKES Two-piece Gress of ten Balbeiggsn HE luckiest, the wealthiest, the next married—in H breit- jersey, trimmed with tan and brown the Bride’s Cake hide the little charms that fore- : Thou- braid and bone buttons, and with tell the future for her attendants. Brides of this H most airy saben A Bg ol 7 gg poo generation, as did their mothers and grandmothers, F diag- 42. Larger sizes, $28. turn to Dean’s for the famous Bride’s Cakes and ; } !)) . | al de- Bromley jersey frocks do not hug the distinctive Wedding Novelties that assure the success ‘ ear 1SS UuUrVvse t can figure. Shipped on same day order of the Wedding. very- is received, prepaid to any address in , , aut ahhie the United States or Canada, plus Write for“Illustrated Wedding Requisites” Booklet. YOUR COSTUME duty. « aper- COMPLETE CATERING SERVICE WITHIN H ‘ BROMLEY-SHEPARD, INC. ‘ bc rae H _ opal Redindas sakeeinds of REASONABLE DISTANCE OF NEW YORK. ‘ S H O U :. D HAV E S i y LE ! = Individual Clothes for Women t ne 1s — Do not confuse with other a. 628 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK ‘aige St t Lowell, Ss. | . htful Rowton Shops.” AG aogieton St skeen 1 Paul Jones C f ‘ lew Yor! -- ift e. | “ame inl : aul Jones Uostumes for onal Agents wanted axe) cow Nurses fulfill the natural with ——— e538 : m as feminine desire to be at these ‘ con- all times smartly dressed Pleats } than ieirts REDUCING FORM right, mo- el for Women ) ssible HE most wonderful discovery of its kind in the age of the modern ‘ Corset, absolutely the only thing on . the market that will reduce the bulg- Quality and economy combined ing flesh at the top line of the corset. z E unds A practical girdle made of a compo- in a variety of n the sition of material that will not bend. = S Bene No stays or sharp edges to cause dis- styles & materials -1t is comfort. the a This style has a flattening effect over 10U- the diaphragm—reduces the abdomen P J eness —and never pushes the figure up. A U L O N E S Worth ten times the price in personal , satisfaction and will. make the one r big, piece gown a joy. Gives youth, grace ‘ : ail ; f O te) T U M E S fab- and the greatest comfort. Can be me ae ae worn with or without corsets, as it is : 3 ow a delightful support for the stomach. “ohe G WNiiae - FOR ) 4 , i : , de- for Men | ss N A special form is made for men. By : Gr. Caron . ‘ae j U R S E S them, gentle pressure and massage, it re- i GS Vee (GyeriTa UN] nt. duces the abdomen, flattens the dia- a : - sort phragm, and gives its wearer a smart, : £ . Pa Rice youthful appearance. Relieves back- NS iteslelts elegance of aesion ie 3 0 ache and greatly improves the health. : xs. Set eee < | é flare Endorsed by physicians. 1 accentea by a eebesbentiatss of ; M ORRIS @& i O-INC “full, a aye rene Bc Bah if rdelaaell se leetlesentrateleacter- (ola , full, waist measure and remittance for : { . . Sa etrmtentans als; st a $8.50. Satisfaction guaranteed. Baltimore, Maryland ome- that CYGNET COMPANY Fill out and mail this coupon n the Dept B-10, Holden, Massachusetts ee skirt. 3 R COMBIN us - it af Tor oe £9 (4 te Morris @ Co-Inc DEPT. B - ‘|e ONS LUG i Cx Ompany 5 there yf or- and 1 this yue ite resscs nitor describing these attractive costumes Name

NR Ys ee SN

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semper 2 = s a . ; sia Fe tin nateie ad postage, prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, son Street, Chicago, Illinois, or purchased at any of the ‘shops listed below. Remittances should be made out to the store or office from which you order. ABERDEEN, S. : The Olwin-Angell Co. AKRON, O.: R20, A. Polsky Co. NY, N. Y.: W. M. Whitney & ~ ANN ARBOR, MICH. : Wm year & Co. APPLE WISC.: The Pettibone-Pea- body Co. ASHEVILLE, N. C.: Bon Marché, Inc. ATLANTA, GA.: ‘Chamberlin, "Johnson, DuBose Company or Davison-Paxon- Stokes Compan ay ATLANTIC CiTY, N.J.: M. E. Blatt Co. the Department Store of Ph mid City — ORO, MASS.: Fine’'s, 59 Park Stree’ AUSTIN TEXAS: Adam Johnson Co. BALTIMORE, MD.: Hutzler Brothers Co., or O'Neill and Company, Inc. nr » TEXAS: The Rosenthal y_ Goods Co. BELLINGHAM, WASH.: J. B. Wahl Store ae 4 MASS.: Aimy, Bigelow & Wash- BILLINGS, MONT. : The D. J. Cole Co. BINGHAMT N. Y.: Sisson Bros.- Welden sie A a . "ALA.: Louis Pizitz Dry s Co. BLOOMINGTON, ILL.: Mayer Livings- ton BOONTON, 2. Bucher & Co.. Inc. BOSTON, MA . Stearns Com- any, or fs meng Marth one ny BRIDGEPORT, CONN.: The D. M. Read any Thy N. Y.: Abraham & Straus N. Y.: Flint & Kent BURLINGTON VT.: F. D. Abernethy CANTON, O.: The Klein-Heffelman- Zollars Company, or the Stern & Mann Co. CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA: The Denecke Co. CHAMPAIGN, ILL.: G. C. Willis CHARLESTON, W. VA.: Coyle and Richardson CHARLOTTE, N. C.: J. B. Ivey & Co. CHICAGO, ILL.: Carson Pirie Scott & Company, Chas. A. Stevens & Bros., adigan Bros. or Zax Brothers cING! NATI, O.: H. & S. Pogue Co., or the John Shiilito Company D, O.: Halle Bros. .: J. L. Mimnaugh & Co. J. A. Kirven Co. » MD. :McMullen Bros.,Co. DALLAS, TEXAS: Titche-Goettinger Co. -: John McLean, Inc. : Straus & Louis Company E, VA.: L. slogan Peer e Con IOWA: ie DAYTON, O.: The Rike-Kumler Co. DECATUR, ILL. :WilliamGushardCompany — COLO.: The Joslin Dry Goods Company, or The Denver Dry Goods Co, DES MOINES, IOWA: Harris-Emery Co. DETROIT, MICH.: The J. L. Hudson Co. DULUTH, MINN.: Silberstein & Bondy Co. DUNKIRK, N. Y.: T. W. Sidey Estate DURHAM, N. C.: Rawls-Knight Co. ELGIN, ILL.: Ackemann Bros. ELMIRA, N. Y.:S.F. Iszard Co. 4 PASO, TEXAS: Popular Dry Goods Co. E,PA. a. Prescott & Richardson Co. L.: Lord's, Fountain Square EVANSVILLE,” IND.: S. G. Evans Dry Goods Co. Feng: NO. eoeey A. Ricker Co. arrick Brothers, Inc. SAS: The W. J. Cal- . C. Petersen's mpany Sa Sanger Bros. : S. Farmer & Son FREDERICK, MD.: ic Thomas Kemp FREEPORT, ILL.: F. A. Read Co. : Radin & Kamp, Inc. : The O. T. Johnson Co. -: Boston Store Co. N MICH.: Friedman- Spring Dry Goods Company, or Wurzburg Dry 8s Co. GREAT FALLS. MONT.: The Paris Dry s Company GREEN BAY, OSS: organ | Blesch Co. GREENSBORO -: Brown's Depart- ment Store GREENWICH, CONN.: The Charles N. n WN. MD.: Leiter Brothers HARRISBURG, ’PA.: Pomeroy’s, Inc. HARTFORD, CONN. : Sa — Inc. HASTINGS, NEB. : Stein ros. Co. HAVRE, MONT.: F. Buttrey Company HOLY KE, MA OF EF Benno HOT SPRINGS, ARK.: The Specialty Shop HOUSTON, TEXAS: Foley Brothers Dry an & Bachman Co. HUNTINGTON, W. VA.: Anderson-New- HUTCHINSON, | Me et : The Wri ‘om INDIANAPOLIS IND: ps Ayres & Co. JACKSON, MICHIGAN: Cook & Feldher Company JACKSON, MISS.: R. E. Kennington Co. JACKSONVILLE, FLA.: Cohen Bros. Seren, N. Y.: The Silk & Specialty sOHNSTOWN, pas George K. Kline JOLIET, L. F. Beach Co JOPLIN, MISSOURE- ached Dry Goods Com: KALAMAZOO. MICH.: Gilmore Bros. KANKAKEE, ILL.: The Chicago Store KANSAS. CITY, MO.: John Taylor Dry Goods ompany LAKE CHA LES, LA.: The Muller Co.‘ Ltd., 625 Ryan St reet LANGASTER, O.: Chas. P. Wiseman & Co. LANCASTER, PA.: Hager & Bro. LANSING, MICH.: J. W. Knapp Co. LAWRENCE, KA KANS. :Innes-Hackman & Co. LEXINGTON, KY.: Wolf-Wile Co. LINCOLN, NEBR Miller & Paine LITTLE ROCK, ARK.: The Gus Blass Co. NGELES arr. : d. W. Robinson Co. L QUISVILLE KY.: Miles Silk Shop LOWELL, MASS: The Bon Marché Dry Goods LYN CHBURG, VA.: D. Moses & Co., Inc. MADISON, WISC. :HarryS.Manchester,Inc. Pegues- Patterns may be purchased in:- MANCHESTER, N. H.: The Barton Co. MARION, OHIO: The Frank Bros. Co. MEMPHIS, TENN.: The Jolin Gerber Co. —en CONN.: The Ives, Upham & Rees “eo MIA Burdine & Cuarterman MIDDLETOWN, CONN.: The James H. Bu MIDDLETOWN, N. Y.: The Amie Norris Company, 3 James Street MILWAUKEE, WISC.: Bertha Ehlers, The Specialty Shop, 106 Wisconsin St. MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.: ‘the Dayton Co. MONROVIA, CALIF.: McBratney’s MORRISTOWN, N. J.: The Florence Shoppe MUNCIE, IND: W. A. McNaughton Co. N WARK, N. L. Bamberger & Co NEW BRITAIN, CONN:: Davidson & Lev- NEW CASTLE, PA.: Brown & Hamilton Co. NEW HAVEN,CONN. :TheChas.MonsonCo. an A tore CONN.: The James islop C NEW ORLEANS, LA.: D. H. Holmes Co., Ltd., or C harles A. Kaufman C o., | td. NEWPORT NEWS, VA.: Sol Nachman’s Department Store. NEW ROCHELLE, N. Y.: Ware's NEW YORK CITY: B. Aliman & Co., John Wanamaker, R. H. Macy, Inc., Para- mount Silk House, 627 West 181st "St. or vogue Pee Room, 19 West 44th St. NORF VA.: Smith & Welton, Inc. NORRISTOWN. "PA. : New York Store OAKLAND, CALIF.: Taft & Pennover Co. OIL CITY, PA.: C.H. Smith Son’s Company oes LAHOMA CITY, OKLA.: The Kerr y Goods Co OKMULGEE. OKLAHOMA: Ramsay Ful- ford PX Goods Co. L . Y.: Bradner’s NEBR.: | Sa gre Belden & Co. KY.: e E. Guthrie Co. PASADENA, CALIF. 1udaine’ s Silk Store, 288 E. Colorado Street PATERSON, N. J.: Radin’'s PAWTUCKET, R. I.: Shartenberg & Robin- PEORIA. s..¢ 8 and Kuhl Company PETERSBURG, A. Rosenstock & PHILADELPHIA, BAS John W vine rag PHOENIX, ARIZ. : Korrick’ s Dry Goods Co. PINE BLUFF, ARK.: McLendon-Saunders Co. PITTSBURGH, PA.: Joseph Horne Co., or Kaufmann’s ee ere N. J.: The Silk Shop, 135 West Fro t St. PORTLAND, MAINE: Eastman Bros. & Bancroft PORTLAND, oes Charles F. Berg, 309- 11 Morrison Stree PORTSMOUTH, ‘OHIO: The Marting Bros. Co. a WASHINGTON, L. I.: Cornwell & POUGHKEEPSIE,N.Y. :Luckey,Platt&Co. PROVIDENCE, R. I.: Gladding ‘Dry Goods Company RALEIGH, N. C.: Boylan Pearce Co. RICHMOND, VA.: Thalhimer Bros., Inc. Hancock Dry Goods Co. N, Y.: ae ag eg Inc. ROCKFORD, "ILL.: D. J. Stewart & Co. RUTHERFORD, N.J.: William F. Tels- chow, 284 Park Ave. SACRA oo CAL.: Weinstock-Lubin Ss ASS. : seg G. Webber Co. SALISBURY, : Dave Oestreicher SALT LAKE cary. ‘UTAH: Keith-O’ Brien ympeer SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS :Wolff & Marx Co. SAN DIEGO, CALIF.: Dunning’s Silk Store, 1141 Sixth Street aan FRANCISCO, CAL.: The White ouse, Rad Y Weill & Company SAVANNE : Mortison-Sullivan D. G. Co. SCHENECTADY, N. Y.: Hewett's Silk hop, Inc. SCRANTON, PA. : Scranton Dry Goods Co. SEATTLE, WASH.: The MacDougall & Southwick Company. SEDALIA, MO.: C. W. Flower Dry Goods Com co a LA. : Zodiag’s, Inc. SIOUX CITY, IOWA: Pellctier’s SIOUX FALLS, S. D.: Gill & Sons Co. ley e. IND.: The Ellsworth Store SPOKANE, WASH. : Whitehouse Co. SPRINGFIELD. MASS. : Bay State Trim- — ee te ed oy St., or Meekins Packar SPRINGFIELD. OHIO: Dresler’s Magazine Shop ST. JOSEPH, MO.: The Townsend, Wyatt and Wall Dry Goods Co. ST. fae hy cee — Stix, Baer & Fuller Dry oods com INN. : : Mannheimer Bros, : Charles Holt, Inc. ¥.: Dey Brothers and Co. : Rhodes Brothers ‘NSAS: The Crosby Bros. Co. . J.: Hoenig, Swern & Co. .V.S. Quackenbush & Co. OKLA: The Brown-Dunkin Dry Goods ie ciry, N. J.: The Silk Shop A, N.Y.: The Fitzgerald Silk Shop, Inc. CONN.: The Miller and ow. VA.: Stone * Thomas ANS.: The Geo. Innes Co. RE, PA. :TheIsaacLongStore eS BARRE, PA.: L. L. Sterns & Sons MINGTON, DEL.: Schwartz Bros. Co. WINONA. MINN.: H. Choate & Co. WORCESTER, MASS.: Slocum’s Silk Store, 418 Main Street YONKERS, N. Y.: Alterson & Rothman YORK, PA.: Chas. H. Bear & Company YOUNGSTOWN, O.: The G. M. McKel- vey Company

Canada a a <a QUEBEC, Henry Morgan & » Lt TORONTO, ONTARIO, The Robert Simp- son Co., Ltd.

THE PARI

VOGUE OPENINGS (Continued from page 174) in milliner’s velvet ; these have intricate- ly outlined panels mysteriously man- ipulated and attached. Such a frock is sketched on page 67. WORTH This house has one of the largest collections in Paris—three hundred and seventy-six models! The day costumes are simple in cut and youthful in line, while those for evening are very gorgeous and lavish. Paillettes, embroidery, beads, squares of coloured glass, brilliants, beaded fringes, all are employed to embellish the evening gowns. Velvets and chiffons are the foundation for these. Lamés make some dresses and many of the evening coats. The coats of the collection are no- table. They are smartly luxurious and skilfully fur trimmed. Often, the fur of the collar continues down the frent in wide revers of beautiful fur workman- ship. Godet fur patches appear on coats. Notable is an evening coat with a long fur scarf attached only at the back of the coat collar. This typical Worth wrap is illustrated on page 70. Worth, as usual, shows great skill in the handling of drapery. This drapery falls from the side-front, the side, and the side-back, from large jewelled motifs or from fan-like or simple bows. Some frocks have horizontal drapery. Box pleats and godets are favoured means to fulness. Worth is the only house to show anything but long, tight sleeves. The bishop sleeve appears, as well as the loose lower part. Painted fur is much used here, and the quality of fur in general found at this house is exceedingly good. Gold and silver laces make entire gowns, and silk and linen laces are used for trim- ming. Gold kid trims some of the black dresses, and gold, silver, and coloured kid applied flowers are used on tulle evening dresses. DRECOLL Much up-in-front movement of the waist-line appears in the Drecoll col- lection, and much use of fur bands. This house has a type of drapery and intricate cut all its own. High fur collars, one end passing through the other, appear on many frocks, and deep fur cuffs. Flat furs such as krimmer and gazelle are favour- ites. Brown rabbit is painted with white dots. The materials most seen are velours de laine, jersey, kasha woollens in diagonal weave, and velvets. Much black is used here in combina- tion with purple. Several white-blouse and black-skirt costumes appear. The tans, red, orange shades, yellow-greens, and brown are recurrent colours. RENEE Subtle, Parisienne, wearable, grace- ‘ful frocks characterize the house of Renée. The lines and fabrics are sup- ple, and the taste is in the best French tradition. The ensemble is important for day wear, and the note of harmony is more often of line and trimming than fabric, for the coats are usually of wool and the dresses of erépe or satin. The waist-lines are low and defined in a soft way, with front ties and full skirts applied to slim bodices, as in the frock at the right on page 74. These frocks often have a straight-cut slip which shows in front in a V, and over them is a loose blouse, frequently with a double jabot. One-sided effects are seen in these blouses, and also in waist- line treatment and skirt draping and fulness, as in the graceful one-sided arrangement of the frock at the left at the top of page 74. Fur is enthusiastically sponsored. Coats are fur trimmed at neck, sleeves, and, often, all round the edges. The fur band that begins at the side bottom of the coat and mounts in front is a typical placement. Such a placement is used in the coat at the left on page 74. MARTIAL ET ARMAND This house has a decided sense of cut. It will be remembered that Martial et Armand, in the mid-season collection, was the first to introduce, through the circular godet, back fulness and interest into coats. This is continued in the present showing. The three Martial et Armand models sketched on page 76 show this concentrated interest in the back. Here, a very decided effort to achieve that which is new and in the movement is felt, and a great many of the dresses and coats are very wearable. Ingenuity of detail and a tasteful use of fur are apparent, together with a flare for the colourful. Trimmings are always novel in treatment and often in idea. Youthfulness of line and cut are always found here. Skirts are among the shortest. PREMET The dresses of this collection have youthful lines, a variety of trimming details, and a _ pleasing straightfor- wardness. This house presents the closest approach to the normal waist- line that is seen, and this is usually accomplished by the intricately Cut, semi-fitted bodice. Premet is also one of the houses that believes in shorter-than-average skirts. Many of the day frocks have small round necks finished with a tiny collar of grosgrain, the ends crossing in front. Sometimes, these necks are of stuff in all-over* pattern or embroidery. Dyed furs are much used here, mole in blue, green, or red, always on dresses or coats of the same colour, and also orange fox. Among the novel trimmings are squares of crocodile on a woollen, fur- lined coat; piping; many incrustations in scroll-like, curved bands; little gros- grain collars and cuffs; gilded linen that looks like gilded leather; silk and gold embroidery; smocking ; chiffon velvet appliqué on crépe; dresses jewel- led with squares of painted glass. JENNY Jenny shows great ingenuity in the use of such things as buttons, braid, scallops, embroidery, yokes, coat fronts that appear to be dresses, mesh-bag pockets, fluting, lace inserts, beads, rhinestones, gold and silver fringes, and fur patches. There is a series of short-coat suits with fancy and colourful _ blouses. Some of these hip-length blouses are in metal cloth. Skirts of these, and of the other dresses, are very short, coming to just under the bend of the knee. There is a series of simple little georgette crépe dresses in blue, often with an all-over, small box-pleat treatment. The evening costumes are lavishly jewelled and beaded in many colours and elaborate designs; they favour the deep V décolletage. Brocaded lamé is much used. Materials most seen are _ kasha, diagonal, striped, and plain woollens, reps, ribbed artificial silks, velvets, lamé in gold and silver, and coloured lace. The dark greens, blue-greens, pastels, black, and bois-de-rose are prominent.

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ws oe 7 Ce ~_ — ee oe 8 October 15, 1925 177 pn a ak ee ¢,

Franklin Simon e Co A Store of Individual Shops Fifth Ave., 37th and 38th Sts. NEW YORK TELEPHONE WIS CONSIN 9600

In the Shop of Black and White DOD CHD OOD CHD CHICHI CHD CHI CHICHICHI CHI OWHD ) hopping by mail at Swopes is most satisfactory. For Madame and Mademoiselle A very explicit catalogue of new COMPLETE

Fall styles makes ordering extreme- ly pleasant and COSTUMES IN easy. BLACK A copy will be sent if you request it. C ORRECT BV ites for th lines and smartly tailored trims mark the correct hats for the sport or informal street costume. An individuality | — in the mode and out of the ordinary— distinguishes those that | bear the Gage name. ‘ GAGE BROTHERS & COMPANY Fe 18 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago 385 Madison Ave., New York ia ES : e m es: Se |

HEEL-PROTECTORS © Look Good Anywhere! Made of fine woolen material, in black, browns and greys to harmonize with shoes and costume, Tweedies give complete ~ tection against scuffing, grease and Fit any size or style ae snugly. No clumsy straps or butto For sale by shoe poecine and in the shoe READY FOR IMMEDIATE sections of department stores. Write for names of dealers in your locality. Tweedie | Boot-Top Company, Makers of Glove - Fitted V V EARING Tweedie Boot-Tops, 1423 Olive St., St. Louis,Mo.

7X Wan

Ca AS AA AL A I A LL A A AN A A LN,

c DRESSES & la MaternityCorsets. ; COATS C Lane Bryant is the largest house in . <— C HATS selling Maternity Appare ; daily to thousands of ex- < VEILS K| pectant mothers. LIAN NIN RTD | i The famous a ; Corset is the perfected prod- as . [| uct of 20. years of expe Complete costumes foi | rience. It is the best corset ve . ; a. in the world. Made in our mourning may be select- - ooms. 1) - | workr ed in the privacy of the H| 3.95 6.95 to 12.50 : | If unable to call, write Dept. hom e, if desired. E G1 for Free Style Book Lane Br yant , FOR: THE Suop oF Biack AND WHitE : 26 W. 39h St, 21 W. 38th St, New York | : : Po haguateeale 6 Fourth Floor ji Hanover Place, nr. Fulton St. B’klyn : és A CAR Al CHICAGO DETRO LO . Entire Contents Copyrighted, 1925, by - a PHIL peltbanngio hn ~~ ye jh FRANKLIN SIMON & Co., INC. aYVanvy anv YanY Tan Yan Ma ARV, 1 tama FanV amy PUT ME i)

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178 VOGUE Oc Last Year’s Cloths ARE TOTALLY WRONG! OR several years past, seasons have come and gone with little that is really new in clothes. Smart women have worn a uniform. Now—suddenly—everything is as different as though Paris had swung from Mars to Venus overnight. The straight silhouette—gone. The masculine, boyish feeling—extinct as the bustle. Simplicity of construc- tion—a phrase with no meaning. The one-toned cos- tume, the subdued and diffident colour-scheme—did they ever exist? The figure is felt in every supple line of the new clothes. The moulded curves, the marvellous drapery, the sweep of lovely folds, the intricacy of cutting and fitting, the blending of daring colours, the richness of jewels, the shortness of skirts, the fulness and flare and frou-frou, the amazing versatility of the new mode—everything makes the woman in last spring’s clothes feel as though she were Madame Rip Van Winkle! . . . But she’s quite all right in this new strange world if she wakes with a copy of Vogue in her hand. Leuiseboulan ger makes a miracle in cerise velvet that is slender but not straight for an inch of its length—that has yards of material but no bulk—that is long and short, too—that is_ elab- orate and formal and important, but lithe and supple and younger than ever. . If one model can say so much about the mode— what about a year of Vogue full of them? It isn’t all in this issue. It couldn’t be. The mode opens like a flower—changes while you look at it—sweeps from Paris to New York and back. . . . Now isthe time when no one, uninstructed, ought to be trusted with a clothes allowance—the larger the allowance, the more the need for guidance. . . . Get away toa good start! Ri arm 2 years of Vogue $7 a special offer | good for a limited time only regular price $5 a year D Vogue will save you money on every one of its numbers—perhaps many times The e o o ae e e - ru the subscription price. Not the kind of saving that means doing without light e e es e e e e an things you like, but the kind that eliminates buying mistakes. They’re the supp ‘ : Th biggest extravagance—aren’t they? And they don’t bring you a second’s cles pleasure—do they? So—this year economize—and enjoy it. _ The a ped dampr ° © Ankl Sign---tear off---and mail the coupon now ee TORE R ERE RUSE EEE ERROR UU OP OPES O TOTO eT TT ST ee S & Vogue, Greenwich, Conn. . | o Eechsel fo roo fe SRVEAITETURYEARS. mm) “Vor «Bought singly, at 35 cents a copy, these 48 issues ERA RT, IRR OCT NE PORE RREEL FAR S O og oh reo NGA RED A Ry BE PEN ~ would cost — $16.80. Through this special offer ~— s you get them for$7. A saving of $9.80 or 2lcacopy 0 RR ree Lee a OnE ee CO ARE ae tie: ERR an De Re PEE) a BORER Se 2 Philad 0 SAPO eS oe ee v.M.-10-15-25 @ Posie x Los A

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October 15, 1925 6 “The Habit of ¢‘Nation” of Fine Quality Whipcords. Colors: Tan, Pheasant Brown, Oxford. Also Priestley’s English Mohair *30 Beugian Linens at *20 For quick service give Bust Measure- ment, Height, Weight and Mention your Bank. Habit will be sent on approval. Send for Authoritative Sports Wear er “V"" 1A Frankel ~ Hobit Maker « Front Street ot Dauphin Jue - a REDUCE YOUR FLESH arms, legs, bust or entire body with DR. WALTER’S Rubber Garments Y garments have been worn by men and women for 20 years. They are inval- uable to those suffer- ing from rheumatism. Reducing Corset: Cream colored rubber. Laced back, clasp front. Made to your measures, $12.00 ae ie Chin Reducer . . $2.50 Reducing Corset Neck & Chin .. 3.50 DR. WALTER’S Medicated Rubber Stockings The wearing of these wonderful medicated DRAWN BY ETHEL PLUMMER The suave poise of the always- perfect coiffure is only possible with the invisible assurance of FASHIONETTE HAIR NETS SAMSTAG & HILDER BROS. ° DISTRIBUTORS ° | ashionette HAIR NETS NEW YORK New York...London... Paris In each of the three great capitals of the smart world, the Condé Nast Travel Bureau maintains an office where some half dozen friendly and experienced people—some English, some French, some American—do nothing except make things agreeable and easy for readers of the Condé Nast Publications who are travelling at home or abroad, and charge nothing for doing it. When abroad you will find the London and Paris offices delightfully equipped for your comfort in reading, writing, telephoning, or meeting your friends, You may make yourself quite at home there at any time, and you will find it a convenient rendezvous for shopping, luncheon, or tea engagements. Information is available on travel, amusements and shopping. There is no fee whatever CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU London Aldwych House New York Paris 21 West 44th St. 2, rue Edouard VIJ rubber anklets and stockings (in either light or dark rubber) will not only reduce and shape the limbs but give excellent support and a neat and trim appearance. They relieve swelling, varicose veins and rheumatism promptly. Worn next to the skin they induce natural heat and keep it in the body. They stimulate the circulation and are a great protection against cold and dampness. Anklets, per pair $ 7.00 Extra high $ 9.00 Stockings, per pair $12.00 Send ankle and calf measure WRITE FOR BOOKLET TO an & DR. JEANNE B. WALTER 389 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK Near 36th Street, Suite 605 Philadelphia—Mary Kammerer, 221 So. 11th St. ee ea ae Buck & Rayner Stores Washington—Gibson Co., Inc., 917 G St. N. W. Los Angeles—Adele Millar, 225 Loew's State Bldg. REDUCE—Easily, Naturally, Safely! 5] Doctors endorse this new way to reduce fat—free from drugs, sweating, severe diet, or other hardships. Noted Food Experts and Dietitians have at last evolved a combination of foods that actually reduces weight in a perfectly natural manner—BASY CONCENTRA, combined with Agar-Agar and laxative fruits. BASY CONCENTRA is deliciously palatable; absolutely pure; ready to serve; and remark ably effective. It produces the one effect vital to weight reduction—it prevents over- nourishment in any part of the body, pro- motes normal bowel action, and aids diges- tion and assimilation. DOCTORS’ ESSENTIAL FOODS CO Weeks Treatment Thousands and thousands of people testify to the wonderful efficacy of BASY CON- CENTRA. Most of them heard about it from their physicians. If you are over- weight you owe it to yourself to try BASY CONCENTRA—and the sooner the better. Send $5.00 today for five weeks treatment and see the results; or write for interesting free book and list of dealers. . 37 Oakwood Av., Orange, N. J. ‘| My 74 plexi and cheek: away that gritty cake powder Loose Powder Vanitie.”” ONLY Loose Powder can preserve the delicate com- plexion of youth, bring the soft, warm texture of the rose to your friend, exquisitely engraved, gilt or silver, fill (Wildflower) Poudre. Refill it your- self with your own Favorite Loose Powder. Worth many times its cost. Buy one at any toilet goods counter. If your dealer can’t supply you, order direct from Norida Parfumerie, 630 South Wabash Avenue, Chicago, Illinois. | Single Double | Powder only Powder and $1.50 Rouge, $26 Compact Complexion Friend } OW, my troubles are over —I’ve found a true com- on friend! I can throw carry my own Favorite in a Norida s! Norida is your complexion with Fleur Sauvage NORIDA® NS tory w sweat easily Among diaper Pads, Send SHEETING Absolutely Waterproof —Not Rubber Stork Sheeting is the only satisfac- because it contains no rubber, will not skin, and gives years of lasting service with comfort and economy. It can be It is ‘‘the material of many uses.’’ and many others, When you buy Stork Sheeting ask for it by name and look for the Stork Trade Mark on the selvage—Printed there for your protection. PRN. ARS PANTS ORS CANS ORNS For Babys Hea ] t h and Comfort te REG. U. S. PAT. OFF. aterproof fabric for baby uses, or irritate the most delicate washed, and wipes dry quickiy. them are Mattress protectors, covers, diaper bags, bibs, lap maternity cases, invalid beds, for this FREE FO LDER of uses, with sam- ples and prices, giving us your dealer's name. THE STORK COMPANY Dept. 7-M Boston, Mass. aN. Pon. Pann en, a

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i VOGUE 180 4a CHOCOLATES ¥ UMMER or winter, _ springtime or fall, . | Johnston’s is the accepted f | offering —it bears the | stamp of social approval. | ..- For Johnston’s is good taste. @ @ When you are considering a graceful gift, one that compliments the recipient as well as the sender, give Johnston’s. — Johnston’s is worthy of the sweetest lady in all the world. SS ~ You will find a special agency » fer Johnston’s Chocolates in one of the better class stores > in your neighbourhood. ie be. ¢ OO M © KN Y (ROBERT k} OW NW 8 TO M 1 LW AO Koes THE CONDE NAST PRESS GREENWICH, CONN

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CRE” are Sree menage Mae pe? ih ee OF i Rp

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© “The New Song” by Arthur Rackham Cashmere Bouguel Soap A radiant skin is a precious gift. It should be cared for as precious things deserve. - Cashmere Bouquet Soap gives to your skin that delicately perfumed cleanliness which helps to keep it youthfully soft and wholesome. “Al —— yh \ D> * Wy, MMe Cashmere Bouquet Soap contains only those ingred- ients which are kind to the skin. You cannot find a ; safer, purer, more beneficial soap for your complex- Colgate & (0: ion. Its rich, creamy lather stimulates and refreshes, ESTABLISHED 1806 New York-London~Paris and the exquisite perfume is a never-ending delight. Sta a ce TT Mee yeeating> = vont ee Atty ak =v We ie Pm one ——s re epee So Egperneny 2 ie —T rt 38 Lies Oe oT Aer TR, nee es ee eee ee . ee