Vogue 1925-09-15: Vol 66 Iss 6

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en the tal 0G FTHOH FHS i” ne ae * me me atte. : i f > 4 ? i ¢ ° el ? ° . . Pe Ol AST oe ANNU TUANN ES HION§S CMa Wi ery | | a I5 iced The le PuBLiCATIONS Jnc. ‘Price 35 oe / OCN $$$ 660 © O)

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A h \ \ \\ i 4 AY ify \ iy WW {.j\ \ AAAS : \\\ WY ~ VAL) 5 MA EH \ Wait \ \ Her Manners Were 'Too Good To Tell The Truth EEP from the bottom of the trunk it came, a box of - D genuine French face powder, made in Paris by skilled iy, Zp artists, packed in Paris by dainty French hands, and | Vie", B : shut tight until she opened it, three thousand miles from its IMM AZZ home. Murmurs of joy! Of course she was much too polite i Wem | ZZ to say that the powder her friend had brought her so carefully was the same Fracy Passionata she always used, bought at her nearest American shop. Yes, the very same, made in Paris, packed in Paris, and never opened until it shed its haunting | FZ fragrance over her dainty dressing-table. One does not tell all one knows. It is not manners! i b, Will you ladies please understand that when we say “im- ported” of Fracy Poudre de Beauté, Parfums, Poudre de i} Toilette, and the rest of the charming Fracy products, we i mean “imported” just as truly as if your friend had brought | you the article in her trunk direct from the Rue de la Paix? i We niean originated, made, boxed, sealed, packed in France ! —so that it is French air that greets your dainty and appre- ciative nostrils when you open cover or draw stopper! Longer than any one else in this country—for nearly seventy years— we have been bringing to America the greatest creations of the leading French perfumers. If you are unusually particular, if your sense of delicacy is quite highly developed, if you are a woman not satisfied with even the better kind of toilet requisites, we bespeak your critical appraisement of the Fracy importations. Since for you to become an enthusiast on the hit Vj / YE GLA Fracy importations it is only necessary for Liki} Ve ihe BEE you to sense their perfume, we offer at less yy, bo HEE than regular cost dainty trial vials of Wis Vs G pe v, Passionata, Charmeuse, Jasmin, and Rose- Wilt GHEE Joli. Send twenty-five cents (address Dept. VE hf bef” V. 5) for each you wish to test. Say in bi! Lpp your letter if you wish to know where ys pf there is the nearest Fracy store. vw “a 4 YYf jf ff if, if W7, 7 7 “a Y/ F-R: ARNOLD AND COM PANY: for nearly 70 Years Importers of ~ Leading French Toilet Preparations -Seven West Twenty-second Street, New York © 1925, F. R. Arnold & Co, “a me get + teen amie a >a

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eee = a Tee ae ene September 15, 1925 TIFFANY & GO. JEWELRY DIAMONDS PEARLS SILVERWARE STATIONERY MAIL INQUIRIES RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION lFta AVENUE & 37 STREET New YORK

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Le Narcisse Not Nuit de Nor (Blac as VAT SS ae ri stinas ee ; “ VOGUE Vogue is published on the Ist and 15th of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Boston Post R onwic Executive and Vol. No. 66, No. 6 September 15th, 1925 Publishing , Greenwich, Conn, Entered as second class matter at the Post Office at Greenwich, Conn., under the Act cf March 3rd, 1879, Whole No. 1271 ew Editorial offices, 19 W. 44th Street, New York, N. Y. Subscriptions for the United States, Canada, Porto Rico and the Philippines, $5.00 a year in advance. 4

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Gnerete, September 15, 1925 BONWIT TELLER &,CO. She Specially Shop of Originalions FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™ STREET, NEW YORK 141—Exact replica of one o the most famous jewels atthe £ Paris Exposition— pendant with reconstructed ruby, re- \ constructed emerald and sap- phire, in sterling silver en- graved gallery mounting. 16.50 142—Puris hat pin orna- ment of sterling silver with Art Decoratif head and point in colored enamels. 22.50 143—Paris evening soawl of heavy quality crepe silk in white, peach, French blue or jade with brightly colored hand embroidered wool flowers and long ombre silk fringe. 65.00 148-149—Paris F rong’ vanities of serting silver gilt enameled in Art Decoratif designs and colorings on both sides; inside vanity compartments. No. 148—135.00 No. 149—250.00 150—Paris handbag all-over hand embroidered in Art Decoratif design and colorings; antique gilt frame and chain handle. 39,00 ACCE/ORIE/ IMPORTED FROM PARIS AND EX. CLUSIVE WITH BONWIT TELLER & CO. (HE accessories on this page are duplicates, adap- tations -or inspirations from articles dis at the Paris Exposition des Arts Decoratifs. T, significant of the new influence in desien and dec- oration that will mark. the smartest Fall accessories. layed 153—Paris evening heels in black studded with cut steel in pointed design. 17.00 MAIL ORDERS FILLED 144—Paris scarf of heav crepe Georgette with wide Art Decoratif border in many colors, hand rolled hem. 145—Paris handkerchief to match scarf, of heavy crepe Georgette with Art Decoratif border in many colors, hand rolled hem. 1.00 146—French scarf sponsored by Rose Descat, of double crepe de chine with hand embroidered Art Decoratif design in colors on both ends, 12.50 147—Paris large buckle-pin sponsored by Jenny and Bechoff in Art Decoratif de- sign of many-colored enamels on metal. 5.0 are Qn Wwe: A — * Me eb OL, Le Ae 151—Paris evening on of silver or gold brocade with border of mosaic leather in cobweb design. 35.00 152— Paris evening bag of glittering black and white rhinestones with black and gold enamel frame. Also in solid rhinestones. 25.00

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¥ e¥(4 DEMOISELLE flings a q N this fashtonable coat of Suede gay adieu to summer and confidence that her new coat of squirrel) thischarming young miss Deerona cloth with collars and has such an air of assured im- cuffs of dyed American Opossum portance that even the haughty will be the envy of all ber set. In porter senses a bountiful tip. The three attractive shades—Tuscon, colors are Tan, Copper and Wine Sultana, and Chestnut. The sizes and the sizes 13 to 17. The price are 13 to 17 and the price $39.50. $39.50, is conspicuously low. ONARCH, indeed, of all she surveys is this very a young lady. For in re- plenishing ber school wardrobe, this delightful two piece dress of Crepe de chine was one of ber keenest discoveries. In colors that breathe the newest of the season’s requirements. Pencil Blue, Navy and a lustrous Leather color. Sizes 13 to 17. Priced at $25.00. cloth with Tuxedo Collar and departs for school, serene in the front border of Viatka (dyed yuooneaT aitiie HEN studies are thrust ° aside and youth trips the . light fantastic this dainty frock ms Crepe de chine with its new vogueof twotonesatin trimming, comes into itsown. In Turquoise or Orchid and a lovely shade of Peach. An entrancing addition to any wardrobe and surely a most economical one at its price of $25.00. Sizes 13 to 17. VOGUE GAYLY THE MODES OF MADELON JR. BECKON TO GLORIOUS YOUTH Madelon MODES IN YOUTHFUL SIZES SHOPPING LIST OF MADELON JUNIOR SHOPS HESE shops have co-ordinated cheir tremendous. buying power to give you, in Madelon Jr., Frocks and Coats, worth be- yond your reasonable expectations. Akron, Ohio — THE C. H. YEAGER CO. lbany, N.Y. COTRELL & LEONARD Atlanta, Ga. THE GEO. MUSE CO. Baltimore, Md. O’NEILL & COMPANY Birmingham, Ala. J. BLACH & SONS ton, Mass. R. H. WHITE COMPANY Bridgeport, Conn. THE D. M. READ COMPANY Brooklyn, N. Y. A. 1. NAMM & SON Chicago, Ill. W. A. WIEBOLDT & CO. Cincinnati, Ohio THE MABLEY & CAREW COMPANY Columbus, Ohio THE MOREHOUSE-MARTENS Co. Dallas, Texas SANGER BROS, Dayton, Ohio THE ELDER & JOHNSTON Co. Denver, Colo. THE A. T. LEWIS & SON D. G. CO. Des Moines, Iowa HARRIS-EMERY COMPANY Detroit, Mich. NEWCOMB-ENDICOTT COMPANY Fort Worth, Texas SANGER BROS. A Bos: Hartford, Conn. SAGE-ALLEN & COMPANY, INC. Indianapolis, Ind. H. P. WASSON & COMPANY Johnstown, Pa. PENN TRAFFIC CoO. Los Angeles, Calif. BROADWAY DEPT. STORE New Haven, Conn. SHARTENBERG’S New York City RUSSEKS Portland, Maine EASTMAN BROS. & BANCROFT Providence, R. 1. GLADDING’S San Francisco, Calif. THE WHITE HOUSE St. Paul, Minn. MANNHEIMER BROS., INC. Seattle, Wash. THE BON MARCHE South Bend, Ind. THE ELLSWORTH STORE Springfield, Mass.= FORBES & WALLACE Toledo, Ohio THE LAMSON BROS. COMPANY Waco, Texas SANGER BROS. Washington, D. C. FRANK R. JELLEFF INC. Wheeling, W. Va. STONE & THOMAS Young: stown, Ohio © Madelon Modes, Inc., 1925 G. M. MC KELVEY CO,

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GUE R. S heir ou, NY September 15, 1925 wi THE NEW NADA DRESSES—AUTUMN 1925 EDITION Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. TYPIFY THE AMERICAN GIRL IN THEIR YOUTHFUL DISTINC- TION AND CHIC. THEY ARE THE SMART YOUNG WOMAN'S CHOICE FOR -AUTUMN The Nada Velveteen dress—Its circular skirt with the back flare and its smart gros- grain ribbon trimming dates it unmistak- ably Autumn 1925. Two-piece model in Cardinal red, Ching blue, almond green, laurel green, mistral blue, navy and black. Sizes 14 to 20 yrs. 29.50 WEAR IN TOWN OR AT SCHOOL. The Nada Cloth Frock—The youthful taf- feta tie, the little turn-down collar, the box-pleats in the front, the broad suede belt, are this Autumn’s tricks of chic. Of mirroleen, in Piranga, navy, black, crackle- eo blue, — red, cuckoo tan, alsam green and brown. : 35.00 Sizes 14 to 20 years. Nada fashions are exclusive Best designs—not obtainable elsewhere Mail Orders Charge Accounts Filled Bh est & C 0. Solicited Fifth Avenue at 35th Street—N. Y. Paris Palm Beach London

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VOGUE ‘PARIS Ftewart $ Co, Correct Apparel torWomen& Misses Fifth Avenue at 37th Street Vee 1 NEW ‘YORK Important at the “Recent “Paris Openings is (OHE SOFTLY “AILORED GfROCK Philippe et Gaston, Doeuillet and Cyber are among the French Creators who feature this charming Fall and Winter mode. And Stewart & Co. have caught the Parisian spirit of sophisticated charm in these delightful daytime frocks. This Loreline frock features the smart and graceful flare of Martial et Armand. The soft brocaded chif- fon velvet flowers appliqued on sleeves and collar add a subtle touch presented by Paris in the newest tail- ored styles. In all Navy, Cuckoo, or Epinard Green. No. 110, $39.50 A handsome Loreline dress shows the Paris favored fur trimming — fitch fur on collar and cuffs. The new long vestee of satin and match- ing revers in coat effect make it/a very striking model. In Cuckoo with self colors revers, Navy with Cuckoo. No. 111 $65.00 a ee ee The touch of elaboration sponsored by Patou is displayed here in the colorful embroidery on sleeves and scarf collar on this Loreline frock. The fashioning of the sleeves, also, bear the characteristic French treat- ment. Navy with coral or pencil colored embroidery, or Cuckoo with coral. No. 112 $35.00 2S & = @ Paris and Fifth Avenue Fashion Book Sent on Request REO % KcOCr>

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1) ie 3 : =a September 25, I925 . —— Symbol of Smartness on the Avenue YouTHFUL CHIC—you see it in every detail of the new Cavalier frock—from the longer blouse and front inverted pleats to the tailored slot seams. Cavalier, ex- clusive with Lord & Taylor, is the measure of smartness for Fall. Soft tweeds, flat crepe, twill back velveteen and high lustre worsted. Garnet, pencil blue, cuckoo tan, delft blue, balsam green and navy blue. $29.50. MISSES’ DEPT .—THIERD FEOOR The new Cavalier hat in colors to match the frock, comes in velour and felt, also in black satin. $12.50. FOURTH FLOOR *Registered U. S. Patent Office Lord & laylor FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK » OUR PERSONAL SHOPPING BUREAU IS PREPARED TO FILL MAIL AND TELEPHONE ORDERS PROMPTLY AND CAREFULLY

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a ee El _—— VOGUE ul Happiness FoR a woman to be supremely happy, she must know that she is perfectly attired to the last detail. Those who have chosen ‘‘Vanitysilk” under- wear are now enjoying a very distinct advantage in happiness over those who yet have to experience the luxuriously soft ‘‘feel’”’ of ‘‘Vanitysilk.” To be attired in commonplace garments you feel like a‘‘nobody” but when you step into a suit of “Vanity- Vanity hair silk”’ underwear, you do more than clothe yourself. You achieve with it that elusive, subtle something which we choose to call Happiness Supremacy. We shall be delighted to tell you where ‘‘ Vanitysilk” garments may be secured; at the same time we will send you an interesting booklet. Just ask for C12. Vanity Fair Silk Mills, Reading, Pa. New York Office, 295 Fifth Avenue SILK UNDERWEAR, AND HOSIERY Sepi

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Beptember 15, 192 THESE FUR-TRIMMED COATS INVITE YOUR DAUGHTERS 1. The broken silhou- ette—Fashion’s smartest style for fall - is beauti- fully illustrated in this dress coat of fine broad- cloth with graceful side flare and scalloped trim- ming. Beaver collar and cufts; crepe de chine lined, and inner lined. Pigeon blue, copper, shutter green, gold brick and pr crest brown. Sizes 6-16. $27.75. 2. The straight boyish line of the tailored mode is shown in this double breasted wool check coat with raccoon collar. Ex- tremelysensibleforschool and every day wear, it is suedene lined through- out. Brown, blve, green and copper. Sizes 6-16. $27.75. cali iad pA JUNIOR-D&B. . Again that important a Tene ie flare below the hip—is em- phasized in a suede ve- lour coat with natural Australian opossum col- lar and cuffs. Crepe de chine lined, and inner lined throughout. Cop- per, wine, copenhagen and espinard green. Sizes 13-15-17. $44.75.

The mother who buys at Macy’s 1s sure of both smartness and economy

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“My children,” says a Southampton woman, “were said to be the best dressed at this place during this season. I took special pleasure in saying that all their clothes are from Macy’s.” Macy’s buys and sells exclusively for cash, and its prices are guaranteed to be the low- est in New York City, quality for quality. RH Macy ¢ Co: 344 ST. & BROADWAY NEW YORK CITY

JUNIOR.-DEB. 4. A suede velour coat with the new large notch- ed collar of sable dyed, Australian opossum. Crepe de chine lined, and inner lined. Wine, copen- hagen, espinard green and copper. Sizes 13-15- 17. $38.75. JUNIOR-DEB. 5. Awraparound model, emphasizing the front border of fur which is one of the season’s main fashion notes. In soft fleece material generousl trimmed with a fiteh dyed Mantel opossum. Crepe de chinelined,and inner lined throughout. Flemish blue,garneteand copper. Size 1 3-15-17. $38.75. 6. A cut Bolivia coat with fitch dyed opossum collar and cuffs. Twill lining, and inner lining. The careful stitching at the side is an interesting minor feature of this chic coat. Copenhagen blue, brown, copper, green and wine. Sizes 6-16. $18.74.

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Autumn fashions by Cammeyer will be shown in many cities. We will be pleased to tell you where youcan see themand to mail you a booklet of new styles. SALON de LUXE Brilliant Paisley bands intensify the smartness of black patent leather. ° (Oo aMmmeyer NEW YORK FIFTH AVENUE af FIFTY TAIRD

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VOGUE! sather. - September 15, 1925 NS dl —s a sate The models illustrated on the following pages are to be seen only at these establishments: Franklin Simon & Co.— Stein & Blaine— Bonwit Teller & Co.— B. Altman & Co. Other costumes, in woolens and worsteds from Gera Mills are on display in the smarter shops the country over. THIS PORTFOLIO IS THE SEVENTH OF A SERIES TT) ILL ia the following four pages Gera Mills present, for the third successive season, advanced models which are sponsored by an unusual combination of fashion authorities. The fabric used in each case is created by Gera Mills, whose position is unques- tioned in the realm of beautiful and fashion- able woolens and worsteds. Gera Mills present these fabrics in the certainty of their widespread acceptance by everyone who creates—or wears—fine clothes. Four of America’s finest establishments endorse Gera Mills’ judgment about these fabrics. These houses unite with Gera Mills in featuring them—adding the weight of their individual prestige in the world of fashion. Each of these houses has origi- nated a series of models to be shown in this and succeeding issues of The Gera Mills Portfolio—designing and creating the costumes from Gera Mills woolens and worsteds. GERA MILLS C. Baunsen & Co., Agents 270 Madison Avenue, New York BOSTON + PHILADELPHIA + CHICAGO + SAN FRANCISCO CLonfolio 11

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VOGUE Costume Complete created in Gera Mills DoverRA by STEIN & BLAINE Drawing by Katherine Sturges | Doren A GERA MILLS FABRIC “Popular” is no longer a sufficient adjective for the ensemble costume—“essential” is more nearly true this season. The essential point of this costume complete by Stein & Blaine is its movement and fullness; the Front-pleating in the skirt does this very effectively. An interesting steel mesh trim- ming furnishes striking contrast to the soft black Dovera, a cashmere of exquisite fine- ness, in which the ensemble is developed. dhecvnn ba le DR

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UE Ls Yeh S Grenas Conese eee ins Saaeaen gies acai ae DES Eatin September 15, 1925 An ensemble by FRANKLIN SIMON & CO. Made of Gera Mills PoINTERA Drawing by Katherine Sturges This ensemble costume presents two of the very newest mannerisms of the daytime mode. First to strike one is the puffed fur sleeve, an exceedingly chic detail in the coat. More important, though, is the flare at the side, which in itself is enough to establish the newness of this costume. This new flare silhouette is par- ticularly interesting because it manages to introduce fullness and sweep without robbing the general line of its lovely slimness. Franklin Simon & Co. have developed this ensem- ble—the coat in royal blue Pointera, a Gera Mills fabric of soft, lustrous pile, of a character suggested by the name Pointera—the dress is of soft silk. The Sur at the collar, sleeves, and bottom ts natural squir- rel. Besides the royal blue, this costume may be had in garnet, and other of the season’s shades. ontera A GERA MILLS FABRIC

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O okine A GERA MILLS FABRIC VOGUE A tailored suit—An ensemble from B. ALTMAN & CO. Made of Gera Mills Mox1ner For both of these costumes, B. Altman & Co. turn to the velvety softness of Mokine. In the ensemble at the left, you see the all-important flare at the side of the coat, a flare that is simply a free, rippling line without bulk. In Mokine of Congo Brown, Hemlock Green and Sea Swallow Gray. The generous collar is of fox. The satin Jrock under the coat matches the shade of the coat and its lining. The tailored suit at the right ts also in the suede-like Mokine, in black, with collar and cuffs of black velvet or pur- ple velvet. Both of these models may be obtained in other of the season’s shades. Sep Poche SAB RMR eal. ; s 3 3 ; a i,

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I\GUE a ote Seed rats co cocoate rela Ais in erate Sa ee A Tilt ean RSA BNI we wide ee a ee ee i F September 15, 192 sateen nananamarncamer lh osulem A GERA MILLS FABRIC The daytime coat in its delightful new version— straight in line, and unquestionably new by virtue of the stole-like band of fur. For this model Bonwit Teller 8 Co. use Mosulera, a pile fabric of intriguing sheen and softness, which combines most effectively with the profuse use of the brown fox fur. In black, Congo Brown, Hemlock Green, and Seville Red. 15 The daytime coat by BONWIT TELLER & CO. Made of Gera Mills MosuLerRaA Drawing by Katherine Sturges

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16 Black satin Bolero effect over crepe under- blouse, with a novelty band of gold kid at the waistline. Colors: Black /Rose, Black /Pencil Blue, and Black/Beige. Sizes: 14to 20. $39.50. Carried exclusively at: Albany, Ga. R. L. JONES CO. Baton Rouge, La. ROSENFIELD D. G. CO. Birmingham, Ala. BURGER-PHILLIPS CO. Charlotte, N. C. J. B. IVEY & CO Chattanooga, Tenn. THE VOGUE Clarksdale, Miss. POWERS & CO. Columbia, S. C. KOHN’S Columbus, Ohio. THE FASHION Dallas, Texas. TITCHE-GOETTINGER CO. Decatur, Ill. WM. GUSHARD D. G. CO. El Paso, Texas. POPULAR D. G. CO. Ft. Wayne, Ind. WOLF & DESSAUER Grand Rapids, Mich. Greenville, Miss. NELMS & BLUM CO. FRIEDMAN-SPRING D. G. CO. Unusual misses’ coat of Veloria, squirrel trim. Colors: Green- bird or Grackle Head Blue, with grey squirrel; Cuckoo or Tanager with brown squirrel. Sizes: 16 to 40. $69.50. Study these Models Five leading style selectors of New York have with one ac- cord selected them as the smart- est for this Fall. OW often have you, in se- H lecting your own wardrobe for the season, been puzzled by the seeming contradictions in the new modes. Style magazines, news articles, theshowings of the shops—how confusing they are in their unending differences of line, trimming, material, color! Here, at last, we offer you a true authenticity in style. Five of the leading style selectors of New York have joined in selecting for you each season the few most correct models in dresses and coats. Among these creations, known as Carolyn Modes, one cannot go wrong. Carolyn Modes will be on sale atoneexclusivestoreineachcity. All dresses will be priced uni- formly at $39.50—coats $69.50. For sheer value alone they can- not be excelled. A twillbloom dress in coat effect. Side circular godets finished with narrow black braid. Band of Viatka squirrel at side. Colors: Navy and Cuckoo with Viatka fur. Sizes: 16to 46. $39.50. VOGUI Carried exclusively at: Indianapolis, Ind. SELIG D.G. CO. Jackson, Miss. R. E. KENNINGTON CO. Knoxville, Tenn. S. H. GEORGE & SONS Little Rock, Ark., PFEIFER BROS. Los Angeles, Calif. JACOBY BROS., INC. Lynchburg, Va. C. M. GUGGENHEIMER, INC. Oklahoma City, Okla. RORABAUGH-BROWN D.G.CO. Paducah, Ky., E. GUTHRIE CO. Peoria, IIl., THE B. & M. INC, Richmond, Va. THALHIMER BROS. Seattle, Wash. BEST’S APPAREL, INC. Sioux City, Iowa. DAVIDSON BROS. CO. Spartanburg, S. C. AUG. W.SMITH CO. Tulsa, Okla. BROWN-DUNKIN CoO. Waco, Texas GOLDSTEIN-MIGEL CO, stoma ciellioreincmnatemaacencae na

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There’s modern witchcraft in the flaw- less knitting of Ipswich stockings. There’s witchery in the sheer silken web of them, and in their exquisitely shaded colors. Shopping for Ipswich hosiery re- wards the feminine instinct for buying wisely and well in order to have an abundant supply of pretty stockings that cost less than one expects them to. If you don’t find Ipswich stockings where you usually buy hosiery we shall be glad to send you a pair, as a sample of their value, for a dollar. ete { And for men "IPSWICH MILLS, Ipswich, Mass. | i i | I enclose a dollar for a sample pair of ! ie a #5 meng a | Ipswich De Luxe Stockings. 1 silk, wool, rayon and cot- 1 ton for all kinds of wear ; Name — formal, sport and every- ; Address day. Theyre moderately D id priced everywhere. e uxe ineicemamacteobenpitaed IPSWICH MILLS »* Ipswich, Mass. * LAWRENCE & CO., Sole Selling Agents ' What color?

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(T'anel above) For the youthful figure, NEMO- FLEX lace bandeau with the new V neck and low back, $2.00; new side-front fastening girdle al- most boneless, $5 00. For the fuller figure, a firmer model in fancy fabrics, $12.00 (Above) NEMO-FLEX elastic step-in girdle easy to pull on with new half way fastening, $10.75. For the jeune fille, net bandeau with new uplift- ing lines, $1.00. Side-fastening combination, lightly boned over abdomen, $5.00 “6 i (RH very short skirt, 34 centimetres (14 inches) from the ground, is smarter than ever and demands a higher waistline. Ite wa.scline is lightly and subily indicated by cut and trimming rather than by a belt. The luw V decollete is favored for day and evening wear. The new fabrics for winter will be softer and lighter. They will therefore reveal the figure more fully and demand a more perfect line. A fairly pronounced fullness gives grace and movement to the silhouette. Chiffon holds its own.” oo cable—which you see in French on the opposite page—was recently received by the House of Nemo from Lucien Lelong, brilliant young Parisian couturier. The House of Nemo, which has long been making the foundation gar- ments fastidious women demand, is constantly in touch with the leading Paris designers and promptly acts upon every breath of news from Paris. If it’s anew neckline that demands a brassiere of special design, Nemo-flex models are the first to be ready with it. If it’s a waistline—or the ab- sence of one—Nemo-flex girdles, corsets and combinations produce just the effect upon your figure the mode demands. In Nemo’s collection for fall this year you will note the new V neck, the slightly fitted waistline, the lovely new fabrics, the delicious new shades. And, as always, you will be delighted with the perfection of workmanship in every model. You may see Nemo-flex in any store where smart corsetry is sold. Nemo, The House of Complete Corsetry, 120 East 16th Street, New York. Write for our booklet, “The Newer Corsetry” which shows all the new Nemo-flex foundation garments for fall. Back-lacing NEMO-FLEX corset, which adjusts the heavier figure to the correct line. A specially designed front holds the figure firmly, $5.00 to $10.00 i eat ateieamniinhint waetenehne ne eo a

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ind ind ar. ure ind CHANGES IN YOUR. UNDERTHINGS FOR. FALL ope NY gw . ee ot PARIS 115 1/40 sx gor* r CLT. NEMOCORSE s3 NEWY ORK -A JUPE TRES COURTE 34 CM Be TERRE EST PLUS A LA MODE QUE JAMAIS EU ET EXIGE LA TAILLE PLUS HAUTE LA LIGNE DE TAILLE EST LEGEREMENT malas + ET SUBTILEMENT INDIQUEE PAR LA COUPE ET LA GARNITURE PLUTOT QUE PAR UNE CEINTURE LE DECOLLETE EN V ASSEZ BAS EST EN FAVEUR POUR LE JOUR ET POUR LE SOIR LES NOUVEAUX TISSUS POUR LHIVER SERONT PLUS DOUX ET PLUS LEGERS ILS REVELERONT AINS! DAVANTAGE LE CORPS ET EXIGERONT UNE LIGNE PLUS PARFAITE UNE AMPLEUR ASSEZ PRONONCEE DONNE DE LA GRACE ET DU MOUVEMENT A LA SILHOUETTE LA MOUSSELINE DE SCIE TIENT SA PLACE y New NEMO.-FLEX com- bination of girdle, insur- ing waist smoothness, with brassiere aff rding perfect ease, $7.50 to $10.00 : LUCIEN LELONG Since waistlines must be more carefully fitted, this ' new NEMO-FLEX girdle ' rises an inch higher with a band of elastic around the waist, $12.50 NEMO-FLEX a % rayon with device for \ diaphragm control, $3.00 NEMO-FLEX silk jersey bandeau in orchid, pale green, maize, pink, shrimp, black, white, $1.00 (Left) This new NEMO.-FLEX bras- siere of lace and ribbon makes the figure look attractive as well as slender, $5.00 BRASSIERES GIRDLES CORSETS COMBINATIONS

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Fins © H. H. Co. /__ Artistry in Silk then the vividness of Paris Colors OTHING has done so much to accentuate beautiful gowns as the present color mode in hosiery. No wonder Paris is depending more and more upon its tones to complete the color scheme! But in this profusion of color it has been too easy to center madame’s attention on the shade and hasten her inspection of the fabric. The flawless texture of filmysilks gives to Holeproof the style atmosphere which exquisite hosiery must have. No shadows, no uneven threads or knots can escape Holeproof ffasierg HOLEPROOF HOSIERY COMPANY, MILWAUKEE, WIS. Shall we forward September's Paris fashion letter to you? Another letter from our Paris observer has just arrived. It is full of last minute news about what women are wearing over there. Also several sur- prises you'll like to know. There is no charge. Where shall we send your copy? detection in our process of inspection. In Holeproof, as in no other hose, fine weaving means those extra weeks of wear. And perfect fit . . . so trim that there is not the tiniest wrinkle to disappoint milady on correct and fashionable appearance. These are the things that must be sought even before color is considered. And today, you will find Holeproof showing the newest Paris shades, discovered by our observer and sent to us with ut- most haste from exclusive shops along the Rue de la Paix. All are fashionably correct. You may see them in any fabric you prefer, sheerest chiffons or heavier silks. In every style, both full-fashioned and semi-fashioned. See them at the shop of your nearest Holeproof dealer. HOLEPROOF HOSIERY COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD., LONDON, ONT. WP ARBRE Mine So

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September 15, 1925 Nt wi ate alba nas onl i RR ON ABLE(\ ON \s

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ROBIA VOGUE “New IRENE CASTLE The Smartest Shop in individual frocks and everywhere are so VERY month you will find them—a new sheaf of the chic and graceful frocks that Irene Castle chooses. They have the distinction, the sureness of taste that make Irene Castle always the most perfectly dressed woman in America. The styles to which she gives her cachet are the ones you seek when you go in quest of a gown or a coat which is an expression of personality, charm and the inspiration of master designers. cAnmarep and gay. Heavy, luxurious Corticelli gros- grain silk, wine color with scalloped trimming of velvet a little deeper in tone. The tie collar has a debonair bow and long ends. A row of flat flower-shaped gold buttons runs all the way down the back in a straight and narrow path bounded by velvet pipings. Sizes 14 to 20. Other colors too. The flare that inspires practically everything that is being worn this fall, decides to be doubly emphatic, and so appears in two flounces. MARETTA SATIN is very smart and Corticelli Satin Tremaine is supremely lovely, so Irene Castle chose this slim, youthful frock with its pin tucks so cleverly placed. The intriguing belt, coller and cuffs are of alternat- ing squares of the satin and white duvetyn. The wide belt, long streaming tie ends and youthful little collar are characteristic Irene Castle touches. You will be enchanted with the youthfulness of this model. ) fa ' se th th fo:

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VE in id SO ew hat ste tly the wn ty, TS. 1 September 15, 1925 CORTICELLI FASHIONS te ee your city carries these wraps which women enthusiastic about _ There are nine alluring new frocks and three | fashionable and becoming coats ready for your selection this month. Just send in the coupon for the new booklet showing them all and describing the exquisite Corticelli Silks Irene Castle chose for them. | One exclusive shop in every city carries the Irene _ Castle Corticelli fashions. Write us and we shall | be glad to give you the name and address of the | shop nearest you. cA SOFT, luxurious coat of Kashinora trimmed with Marten brings out the lovely lines of Irene Castle’s figure. Circular godets at both sides give it vivacity. The lining of Corticelli Crépe Eldora in autumn leaf colors makes one delight to slip it over the back of one’s chair. 19 WELLESLEY Swiruinc skirt and caressing cut. Lustrous blonde Cor- ticelli Crépe-back Satin used on the crepe side for the blouse, on the gleaming satin side for the skirt, tie and wrist bands. The sleeves are of rich, soft, burnt orange broche embroidered in gold and beaded in blonde beads. Note the full, soft sleeves with the original wristlets. Sizes 16, 18 and 20. JAQUA SEND FOR BOOKLET OF THis Montu’s MopELs IRENE Caste Corticelli Fashions The Corticelli Silk Company, Dept. 366 136 Madison Avenue, New York Please send me the free booklet of the new “Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions’’ for fall.

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20 VOGUE | Se Proper costuming? __ Calls for Sports Hosiery fora//sports occasions fe pe G Fashioned by (Burson ® LR A MRA leh ma trie Fae a * deVore correctly fulfills with style patterns and colors : Fashions edict orsports wear : SOLE DISTRIBUTERS~KRUEGER TOBIN COMPANY-NEW YORE City . 1M P E S - . ) entire

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OGUE aks are anna se MND tint ME A eee a a 3 a q a : 4 il a aa September 15, 1925 A GOLFLEX FROCK Inspired by Philippe et Gaston [ts made in y two-piece style, of course, and gains extreme chic by pendulous tabs, hall-button weighted, and ed high on one side, low on the other. A faithful replica of Philippe et Gaston's creation, it is beautifully tailored of the famous Golflex non-streichable worsted jersey —yust the e of adorably simple Frock for which there are Acores ‘Wilkin G~ Adler, Inc, 50O Seventh Avenue, N cy. c ENTIRE CONTENTS COPYRIGHTED. 1925. BY WILKIN & ADLER. INC. Gor sale only at Department and. Specialty Storey

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VOGUE Gere ~ rv ae” i g f Ss ¥ QF Toy “SLT be! (One striking contrasts of lustrous tone and melting shadow in Waterside’s deep, rich pile make it a perfect choice for this lovely lounging coat. Smart simple frocks, too, find added interest in this play of light across its soft velvety surface. The Paris vogue of the masculine lounging robe finds amusing expression in Waterside lis simple grace, its caressing warmth make it delightful to wear . does flatter you, that soft becoming depth of pile! And those flowing folds that make you look so graceful, are so rich, so velvety in their “feel!” Spanish red, flax blue—all of Waterside Corduroy’s luscious new colors promise the most enchanting negligées, exquisitely feminine robes, or exotic, luxurious coats rich enough to com- plete the smart silken pajamas of the new mode. And dressing gowns with the downy warmth and softness so grateful on chilly mornings! There are more possibilities than negligées alone, in Water- side’s luxurious beauty. You can do fascinating things with Waterside. Frocks and coats and smart ensembles—after the fashion Paris established—are made of this versatile fabric. Best of all, it is so practical! Moderate in price, unending in ser- vice, Waterside wears and washes and wears again, giving satisfac- tion long beyond your expectations for anything so beautiful. Leading department stores carry Waterside Corduroy. Leading manufacturers use it for their smartest negligées. Ask for Waterside! Howlett & Hockmeyer Co., Fifth Avenue at 26th Street, New York. IRRESISTIBLY BECOMING Yvonne Carette of Paris designed this negligée from a great square of Waterside (WATERSIDE CORDUROY

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OGUE September 15, 1925 aap ee oe = y F ~~ ‘ sy Gee Sling ne trasts of melting ‘g deep, perfect ounging Srocks, t in this its soft Marilyn Mille To Shortly Appear In The Charles B. “Dillingham stage “Production — iss ce SUNNY >? ae ; COSTUME SUIT and HAT . ’ in ae OMILGRIM. be MARILYN Miter Day CosTUME AS : | oo | AN INSPIRATION — : : | *~ of “AMERICA’S FOREMOST x FASHION CREATOR” | \ this rside a

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VOGUE Announcing cA wrappy silhouette of graceful slenderizing lines in a coat of rich Roulustra, with collar and cuffs of luxurious Fox. Thedeep scalloped armhole and tied sleeve are partic- ularly smart details. Miss Jutta Hoyt—Prominent Society Woman, Favorite of Stage and Screen, Internationally Known Writer and Authority on Fashions Who Now Devotes Her Talents to the Creation of New Modes that Bear Her Name “The three creations pictured on these pages are typical of my first collection of nine styles. I have tried to make them portray the delightful spirit of youth—yet, if you will, remain a trifle re strained and the least bit dignified, as becomes one at the tail end of summer and on the threshold of the smart town season. ... One thing I consider of the utmost importance in all dress for the American Woman—and that is a constant adherence to the simple and natural silhouette which she wears so well.” —— / a ey atl a — | JULIA HOYT | # j 4 5 4 : 4 : i : ae 5(

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re ve it Cs 1e 1e at id ee a itch RENN is Alien a guide and inspiration in the selection of their to vi September 15, 1925 MOD © HoYT’s fine discrimination and rare gift of artistry in dress have long been the admiration of her friends as well as a own wardrobes. Now, in response to a wider urge, Miss Hoyt is supplementing a brilliant career by the creation and sponsorship of “DISTINGUISHED AMERICAN CLOTHES FOR DISTINGUISHED AMERICAN GENTLEWOMEN” “Dresses eMade Exclusively of MALLINSON' Silks and Fabrics de Luxe An entirely new group of Jutta Horr Modes,— Dresses, Coats and Wraps featuring latest designs in Mallinson’s Silks and Fabrics,—will be presented each month in one smart shop in all leading cities. Every Jutta Horr Mope will bear her original sig- natured label and will definitely portray the ultra smart line and subtle style expression for which she is a recognized authority. ~ (Note illustrations) St D0 SSSORANSO ytrelnea Fs cA supple Frock of Mallinson’s Crepe Satin, simple and effective, with a standing collar, decidedly different, and pockets embroid- ered ina fascinating new motif, repeated at the flounce. Jutta Hoyt Mopes are shown at one smart shop in each leading city. If not obtainable in our city, please write direct to Miss Hoym~ J » P 7 cAn appealingly youthful dress of Mallinson’s Molly -O-Crepe with double Peter Pan Collar finished with unique Ivory orna- ments and duo tone tassels. The graceful flareof the seasonisshown in the tucked circular flounce. JULIA HOYT MODES we 500 Seventh Avenue - - New York City

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26 VOGUE cial ee cis adiinndoumn aes: Soe eleenitiiiahe mee attain cer Roll your hose and wear a step-in, too...... The Gossard Dancelette has no garters—a special patented design provides another means of keep- ing it in place. oc we é g i i a ne *The New Gossard Dancelette — for the Girl who “Rolls Her Own” Utter freedom of movement... real grace of line . . ; are two demands of the mod- Girdles ern girl in regard to her clothes. The lightly girdled figure is slimmer, trimmer, and sty ont smarter than the one that wears no corset at all—but heretofore it has been “oe — impossible to enjoy the comfort of rolled stockings without foregoing the step-in. The Complete The Dancelette solves the problem with a twin band arrangement—a soft band around Rubber Reducing Garments each thigh—which holds the garment perfectly in place. Front red = The Dancelette is combined of elastic, with silk or satin tricot, slipper satin, or bro- a 2 Sl cade, at prices ranging from $3.50 to $18. It is as easily laundered as a piece of silk; ite one steps into it like a teddy, and then forgets all about it. Worn with a brassiere, Pat. Appa. for. the Dancelette makes a complete undercostume. Step in one and judge for yourself. The H. W. Gossard Co., 100 East Ohio Street, Chicago + + « Offices also in New York, San Francisco, Toronto, London, Sydney, Buenos Aires ~ 1 mi lg ali ti TOR its «cass ag eee

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vear lette cial ides eep- wn” os Aires NAA NN oo ch September 15, 1925 FOR THAT CHERISHED Above—Van Raalte “‘Dance Ensemble’’, of- Jered in peach, orchid, quisite with flowers, hem- stitching or fine lace. pink and new rose, ex- Posed by Miss HURLEY— “Eve of the Follies”. She writes: “My dear Mr. Van Raalte: Congratulations to your company! Your ‘All-in-One’ is just what I have wanted. As I have told you, I always consider my undergarments more important than my outer attire. I would like all women who care about the beauty of their figures to know of your wonderfulidea! I am most enthusiastic over it! Sincerely yours, (Signed) MARION HURLEY” New Amsterdam Theatre To left—Van Raalte “‘All- in-One’”’ with bandeau top tailored to fit the figure. This, and the style with cupped brassiere top, shown in the large oval, haveanew step-in chemise style bottom with re- enforced crotch. OUR costume for dinners, dances and afternoon occasions— according to an expert in fashionable dress—should tip the scales at two pounds— not an ounce over! Allowing almost half that weight for your pumps, you have only a bit over a pound for your frock and undergarments combined! And that’s where Van Raalte comes to your service, with Glove Silk Undergarments so exquisite in fit, so clever in design, that there’s not an ounce—or inch!—of surplus material. Van Raalte has created two absolutely new types of underwear—the “All-in-One” and the “Dance Ensemble” pictured on this page—so that your costume may come within Fashion’s “two-pound” edict! These new undergarments not only sheathe the body but give support where it is needed! Just think of it! Not a double thickness of fabric any- where to detract from the body’s slenderness! Here, indeed, is simplicity in dressing brought to a new perfection! The Van Raalte ‘‘All-in-One’’ Combination comes in two styles—one shown above—with cupped brassiere top of double thickness, and elastic at front and back to assure perfect fit and to mould the figure. The little sketch, to the left, shows the “All-in-One” without shoulder straps and with bandeau-effect top of heavy glove silk. The Van Raalte ‘Dance Ensemble’’—sketched above, at the left—consists of Form-Moulding-Bandeau, Panties, and Garters to match—in delectable tints and trimmings! Ask for them—by name—at the Silk Underwear depart- ment in your favorite store. Made by the Makers of Van Raalte Silk Stockings, Silk Gloves “because you love nice things” VAN RAALTE Glove Silk Underwear 27 “TWO-POUND LOOK” YOU WILL WANT THE “ALL-IN-ONE’’!

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VOGUE 28 Farag Re + ryeeea| A) wasp iE VELTEERT YS WAVES Ppt tees YS This graceful coat with freer lines is developed An unusual heather-purple English fabric of fuchsia-toned suede cloth It is softly with a vivid, contrasting border effect fashions this richly furred coat A crocheted French fabric makes this smartly flared travel coat Warmest harvest tones show in its geometrical patterns collared with contrasting fur Hart Schaffner & Marx women’s coats have the smartness of Paris It’s no wonder These coats were designed abroad The. artists studied the newest fashion trends at the Long Champs races, along the Rue de la Paix, in the Bois- every place where the smartest styles assemble These coats show that influence in the perfect balance and rhythm of their lines; in the fire of their high Autumn color The fabrics are imported The furs represent the rarest pelts STYLES FOR TOWN, COUNTRY AND TRAVEL ARE PRESENTED 7 ALL WITH REASONABLE-PRICES Hart Schaffner & Marx CHICAGO NEW YORK Copyright 1925 Hart Schaffner & Marx sea aga te a te eae RR eg oom Lie ATI a ib HH woe atest alt Se ee ee emer aa full Sue per Glc clot real mu: whi aa

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20 September 15, 1925 | ARE YOU FAIR TO YOUR HANDS? THEN GLOVE THEM IN SURAH-SUEDE! he shimmering lustre and beautiful texture of Surah-Suede have never before been equalled in any style or type of glove! It accentu- ates the beauty of your hands—it attracts the ad- miring world’s attention to every gesture you make! For hands—as you know—can be more ex- pressive than faces. They have such infinite op- portunities— opening a purse, extending a card, raising an umbrella, receiving change, turning the pages of book or magazine while travelling —of re- vealing your taste, your knowledge of smart dress- ing! So, before you buy your new gloves, you will want to pause and ask yourself: —‘‘Am I fair to my 39> - hands? Do I give enough thought to my Gloves! When you see your hands in Surah-Suede Gloves you will be able to answer those questions to your : complete satisfaction. For Surah-Suede Gloves are Van Raalte’s newest creation, and they are as fa- Above— Van Raalte Surah- %s Suede Gloves—in a trim, mous for fit and for beauty as the Van Raalte Silk turned-cuff style. Choice of and Suede Fabric Gloves with which you are al- colors to maith the levely i new shades in velour hats— i ready acquainted! fawn, beige, russet, green, ; : etc., also white and black. The styles are Paris-new; the sizes are care- fully graded to endow every hand with beauty. Light gloves are Fashion’s favorites and Surah- Suede comes in all modish light colors—and washes perfectly! 3 You will find that Van Raalte’s Surah-Suede Gloves have a perfect color harmony with the new clothes that will appeal to you. But in order to " realize how beautiful Surah-Suede is—you really Above— Van Raalte Su- rah-Suede Gloves with plaited friiled cuffs, ef- fectively edged in color. ae Sa ne ee oe — see these newest gloves—several styles of Photographed at ex- which are photographed on this page! treme left — Van Raalte c wee gre Surah - Suede Gloves Ask for Van Raalte Surah-Suede Gloves— by name with scalloped and em- —in th Gl D f f : broidered cuffs. in the Glove Department of your favorite store. In center—Van Raalte Surah-Suede Gloves in tnmly tailored, French Made by the Makers of cuff style. Van Raalte Silk Stockings, Silk Underwear i. : “because you love nice things” VAN RAALTE a urah-Sueoe G loves

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VOGUE SASS SS SS “YY LLLLLLLALLLLLLLLLLL LLL ACLLLILLILLLLL LL Z2 = I hhh SSS ESS SSS SEES SNS Z LLLLALLL L244 OG I Rk{hhhhhhassSSSSSSSS SS are a Down to the shop for a pair of Hum- ming Bird Pure Silk Hose—demure Pris- cilla Grey for street wear. Home again. of piquant Peach and still another of appealing Wisteria. Ah, it is hard to choose but one pair from among Humming Bird’s forty bewitching shades, and at Humming Bird’s mod- a OSS SN RM Qos YST[{ GQ xqaysy '’{ SS SSS The Witchery of Color est price, so needless a thing to do. New colors are developed as rapidly as we receive word of the trend of the mode from our Paris repre- sentative. Ask tosee these smooth, slen- der-ankled, durable silk hose. Sold only in reliable stores. And with the soft greys pair of smart Rose Beige, another READ “THE STORY OF A PAIR OF SILK STOCKINGS.” Not advertising, but a real text book used in many schools. Free copy on request. DAVENPORT HOSIERY MILLS - CHATTANOOGA, New York Office: 200 Fifth Avenue Made in One Good & ; Uniform Grade Only — | 1. Newest shades, always. 2. Pure thread silk body. 3. Free from heavy and light # places. 4. No “loading” to give arti- ficial weight. 5. Pure silk reinforcement for sole and above heel. 6. Reinforced heels and toes. 7. Doubled elastic lisle tops. 8. Garter-run stop. 9, Extra length. 10. Snug-fitting ankles and feet. 11. Knit, not stretched to size. 12. Perfect, permanent fit. 13. All colors fadeless. 14. No seam to torture bot- tom of foot. TENN. r iN @ wD. LLILLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLELLLLLELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL LL LLL LLL LLL LLL LLL LLL LLLLLLLZLLLLL LL \ZE gn Roy i Aummine Bird PURE SILK HOSIERY WEARS LONGER p) (© 1925 BY D.H M. CN . aS) - YZ LL, LLL LLL LLL LLL LEE EEE EEE Y) SNA A A OS AO Pepte ER In promin preside: = two loc a leader She h to ‘‘seel herself. world. She v man. M had bee And she mercial universi “IT do ing littl to her p Yes, i > ness was come an * glory of é Durin = ceed, It’ ) my worl = Shew month, s BP yet at | every m But tk same po: She fel She bega she drea j she went Hbeen wo could sh hours a c Then s had some could tra they coul help. The ne a shoe stc keen. ‘‘T’ announce § self one o They t 9 girl learn 9 she had n =the Arch § built-in a = prevents | No. 90 | een @© 1925 by 7

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Q & —] ULM AA dd CLM MM MALAMUTE LLL WLLL Keptember 15, 1925 ER home had been ina small Indiana city. She had been prominent there. Her father was president of the stronger of the two local banks. Her mother was a leader in social affairs. She had gone to New York City to ‘“‘seek her fortune,’’ to hew for herself a career in the industrial world. She was a capable young wo- man. Many things about business had been learned from her father. And she had completed the com- their new establishment. She talked with happy frankness about her success. “I had accu- mulated $5,000 — enough for my half of the shop,” she explained. “But I never could have done it without these shoes on my feet.” “Aw, shucks,” laughed her father. “Sounds foolish, I know. But it’s true. I was near to giving up. Then when Ruth made me get a pair of these shoes I was my old self again. I shudder when I think of the suffering and failure these > mercial course at one of the State ) universities. > “I don’t think anybody will take me for a shrink- ing little violet,’ shc laughed, as she said good-bye ’ to her parents. Yes, indeed. She would take care of herself. Busi- * ness was not a challenge to her, but an invitation to come and sense the thrill of accomplishment and the 7 glory of success. > During her first week on her new job (she was filing * clerk in the office of a department store) she wrote J home: “I just love it here. I know I’m going to suc- ceed. It’s hard, and people are so busy. But I have my work, and that is all I ask of New York.” > She worked diligently. Day after day, month after month, she was at her desk before starting time, and Pyet at her work after quitting time. She enjoyed every moment, too. But the end of her first year found her still in the same position. Nor had her salary been changed. She felt very, very tired. Her enthusiasm was gone. )She began to doubt her confidence in herself. Too, she dreaded the burden of going through a whole )day. It was a great relief when five o’clock came. And she would drag herself wearily to her room, hardly able to wait until she could get her shoes off Jand just rest, rest, rest. Getting old? She was only twenty-seven. Then she went to a doctor. He merely told her she had been working too hard. That confused her. How ‘could she work too hard, if she spent only eight hours a day at her tasks, and was in good health? Then she realized that she was lonely. If only she had some other girl to share her room, so that they could trade confidences and sympathies — so that _ could “‘just talk” about everything — it would 1elp. The new comrade happened to be a saleswoman in a shoe store. She was an energetic woman, vigorous, keen. “I’ve just about won my shoe string,’’ she § announced cheerfully. ‘Going into business for my- self one of these days.” They talked much of shoes. Our young Indiana } girl learned many things about feet and shoes that 4} she had never dreamed of before. She learned about the Arch Preserver Shoe, and how its concealed, } built-in arch bridge supports the foot naturally and § prevents sagging. No. 30568 No. 90 1) | E : z : : : i 4 = 3 = Look for the trade-mark on the sole and lining of every genuine Arch Preserver Shoe. Sold by 2000 dealers. Styles for all occa- stons. All widths, AAAA to E. “These shoes have earned $5000 for me” Little chapters from the story of how the Arch Preserver Shoe changed the ideas of a Nation. No 9 She also learned that this shoe has a flat inner sole which allows the bones, nerves and blood-vessels of the forepart of the foot to function normally, with- out interference. “You see, Margery,” continued the new friend, “if a woman’s feet aren’t in shape then she’s a failure everywhere. No nerves, no energy, no enthusiasm — why, every day, I see them come into our store, frowning, listless, worn-out old women, bewildered by it all, because they’ve been told they are not sick. Then when they wear this shoe they begin to feel like girls again. It’s great!” A few weeks ago (Margery had spent eight years in New York) she and Ruth (that was the older wo- man’s name) opened their own store. It isan exclusive little shop, just off Fifth Avenue. They don’t sell shoes. But they are still interested in shoes, and they both wear Arch Preserver Shoes. Their new store is a success, because they are both energetic and capable, both hustling about, creating business, holding old business. Margery was home a short time after they opened THE SHOE Supports where support is needed — bends where the foot bends TRADE MARK REG U.S. PAT. OFFICE shoes prevented.” In all walks of life women, both young and old, with healthy, vigorous feet and weak, troublesome feet, are helped toward success, toward happiness, toward the things they long for most. It’s such an easy matter to prevent foot trouble, to eep yourself progressing toward bigger, better things, no matter what you are doing. Be sure to remember this: The Arch Preserver Shoe keeps the foot well; it prevents strain and sag- ging and pinching. It permits the whole of the foot to function normally. Yet this shoe is smartly styled. Comfort is so much more enjoyable when it is stylish, isn’t it? There are styles in the Arch Preserver Shoe for every occasion. If you will write for our little booklet, ‘‘Use Your Feet,’’ you'll learn many more interesting facts about this shoe — the shoe that has changed the ideas of the Nation. THE SELBY SHOE CO. 342 Seventh St., Portsmouth, O. Makers of Women’s Fine Shoes for more than Forty Years Don’t wait until your feet be- come troublesome. Let this book tell you now how to keep them well while wearing the smartest styles. The Selby Shoe Co., 342 7th St., Portsmouth, O. Please send postpaid your booklet, No. 42, “‘Use Your Feet”, and name of Dealer. Name Street and No. = P. O. State Made for women and misses by only The Selby Shoe Co., Portsmouth, Ohio; for men by E. T. Wright & Co., Inc Rockland, Mass. No. 30462 @ 1925 by The Selby Shoe Co. “KEEPS THE FOOT WELL”

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VOGUR LET MUNSINGWEAR COVER YOU WITH SATISFACTIO MUSING HOSIERY | for MEN, WOMEN, CHILDREN, INFANTS Silk Vests and Bloomers for Women Combination All-in-One Silk Uests.and Step-Ins for Women Form-Fitting Knitted Union Suits for Men, Women, Children Loose-Fitting Woven Union Suits for Men, Women, Children Infants Dests, Tab | Bands and Binders: and Double Breasted Wrappers. A Sold only through Retail Merchants F eM ge, SQ GS. A! A} 0 Kw NP OS é: CREO ae scons slewiees an LAG Oz Correct ee and Plosiery for airy Whensbee of the Family] Munsingwear is now obtainable in hosiery as well as in union suits. The hosiery line comprises an exceptionally large assortment of numbers in the wanted colors and materials. ip styles for men, women, children, infants, and is already recognized by the trade as one of the great hosiery lines of the country. Thousands of Munsingwear dealers have already put Munsingwear hosiery in stock and are selling the hosiery with the same confidence they have always had in selling Munsingwear union suits. When buying your Munsingwear union suits, ask your dealer to show you samples of Munsingwear hosiery. You will find the same fine quality and workmanship in the hosier ed that for so many years have characterized all under garments bearing the Munsingwear tra mark symbol. Munsingwear Quality and Workmanship Assure Comfort and Service! : THE MUNSINGWEAR CORPORATION MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA

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THE LURE OF Ve C ustom Corseted look I. NEWMAN & SONS, Inc. . Fourth Ave. and 18th St., New York Manufactured exclusively in Canada by DomINIONCOoRSETCO., Quebec, P.Q., Can. S= is the center of all eyes, on the ballroom floor. Willowy, graceful, exquisite in figure, radiant with person- ality, she is the gently gliding spirit of youth, glowing with its lovely lure. Her P. N. Practical Front Corset gives her even more than wonderful corsetry —even more than true “corset comfort” and matchless fit. It fills her with a serene confidence in her appearance— the high serenity that enhances charm. She knows that there is no corset quite like the Practical Front. Appreciates the *Patented way in which the exclusive, flexible Inner Elastic Vest* brings the instant feeling of perfec fit, giving a fresh fit- ting with every wearing. She is sure that her figure is molded and held in the mode of the hour, the mode of youth. So she dances with the absence of self-consciousness and lightsome ease of a flower softly sway- ing in a summer breeze. There ave various, —_ new models for your figure. See them. Write for new booklet, “Youth and You”. PN. PAT-U-S-A AND FOREIGN COUNTRIES CORSETS

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When you are particularly particular — It is so satisfying to know that your selection is evidence of a fastidious taste! When your dainty undergarments are Athena, you have that assurance always. With Athena, you are never annoyed by bunching, binding, gaping —or any of the other faults that many women accept as necessary evils of underwear. Instead, you have the delightful comfort, the complete freedom of movement, that come only with perfect fit. Yet Athena costs no more! ATHENA Underwear for Men, Women, (hildren + “Tiny Tots” for Infants MarsHALL FieLtp & Company, Wholesale + (‘hicago + New York ATHENA FASHION NOTES The pride of those who would be “straight and slim and tailormade” Along with the tailored suit, the tailored frock now demands the trimmest of slender silhouettes. But what is farless visible to the casual eye, the “chic” of many a billowy ball gown depends just as surely upon the lovely, clean-cut lines of a figure thoroughly tailor- made. Without doubt that’s the reason why Athena is just as popular for evening as for street wear. Athena presents a dainty top for every type of frock For thestreet costume, as well as for the long-sleeved, heavier frock for indoor wear, many women prefer the built-up Athena top with its shapely rounded armhole and carefully placed shoul- der straps. The bodice top, of course, is designed particularly for wear | under the daintier summer AN \ } frocks and evening gowns. But many find the lightness and freedom of the Athena bodice top so delightful they prefer it for general wear. Straps do not slip off the shoulder. For those who feel the need of a warmer garment when winter flaunts his icy blasts, there is the Athena Dutch neck with elbow sleeves. This gives extraprotection about the shoul- ders without interfering with a graceful neck- line or the beauty of a sleeve open at the wrist. But for the maid or matron who glories in bracing winds, there’s the soft, all-enveloping Athena—warm and snug from throat to trimmest wrists and ankles. For sports wear, Athena always furnishes grateful warmth without a suggestion of bulkiness. Athena features make children’s Athena particularly appreciated by mothers f>~ Youth always takesa fresh delight in having things “dainty and pretty and nice.” So Athena is just as popular with daughter as mother. The distinctive fea- tures of grown-up Athena— 4]] sloping neckline, rounded armhole, reinforced shoul- der, fitted back—are all in children’s Athena as well. The special Athena seat, in either the open or drop seat style, addsextra comfort. Reinforced side seams and buttonholes prevent tearing. Instead of Athena for the baby there are Tiny Tot bands and wrappers To appreciate how warm and comfortable your baby will be in Tiny Tots, you have to examine | for yourself these carefully shaped little bands and wrappers of softest, non-irritating fabrics. They are specially designed, with extra width to fit the fat little bodies of chubby babies. Note this Difference Compare Athena gett fy with any other knit Bp H underwear. You will then understand the unusual comfort which ; comes with the grace- i ful, figure-conforming i lines of all Athena un- 7 dergarments. H H 3-3 Shape of Shapelessness Athena of Ordi Underwear Underwear

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‘ES ! be ade” tailored slender e tothe wy ball lovely, - tailor- on why z as for | shoul- } general Ider.

il neck- e wrist.

hout a > ns ted :a fresh things y and just as iter as ive fea- hena— yunded shoul- > all in s well. ypen or iforced earing. there i i : ot lessness rdinary 2rwear

Tangee Orange that Mamie ERE’S a new idea in make-up. A little round compact. A tiny fat crystal jar. A slender lipstick in a gun-metal case: .. All three orange as sunset! Open the compact; rub the little woolly puff lightly over your cheek... . or, if, you prefer cream rouge, dip. your finger in the crystal jar, take the tiniest orange dab and spread it quickly ... why it isn’t orange; it’s rose, blush-rose, warm, young, lovely!... Now run the lipstick over your lips—care- fully, lightly, delicately... .why, it isn’t orange; it’s rose again, rose-coral, so beautiful, yet so natural, your lips curve in a smile, that to Blush- ~Rose changes you from a pretty Cinderella into an éxquisite Princess! And the best of it is, you'll find these little friends of beauty absolutely harmless— for they contain cold cream instead of the ~ usual wax or grease base... And the lovély . “glow “won't fadé or tub<offbécause only soap and water can remove_it..A dip in the sea won't affect it—nor a hot drink — nor the friction of a napkin. . . Even a kiss can’t stir it! And, madame, when you use Tangee, you will find shat important! Tangee Lipstick, $1. Tangee Rouge Compact, 75c; Tangee Cream Rouge, $1. If your dealer cannot supply you. send direct to GEORGE W. LUFT COMPANY, New York. The mention of your dealer’s name will be greatly appreciated. Mons. Doriot AINGS Be Beautiful with “Sangee

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ATWATER KENT RADIO Se] ROSAMOND PINCHOT, ACTRESS, HAS INSTALLED THE MODEL 20 COMPACT IN HER NEW YORK HOME. THIS SET IS PRICED AT EIGHTY DOLLARS. = eva have been listening to all the discussions —_ making precision electrical equipment, Atwater ] og about radio. The technical claims for one set Kent was ready when radio came. You believe Z OWECH are or another have meant very little to you. in buying from experienced people, don’t you? 9 snes But there are at least three facts about Atwater And, finally, in countless small refinements deciding HOW Kent Receivers and Radio Speakers which have which women appreciate most, every Atwater probably stayed in your mind. Kent Set and Radio Speaker is built to reward One is that the Atwater Kent Model zo the closest scrutiny. Hear the Atwater Kent Radio Artists every Thursday Compact fits into your home unob- Write for illustrated booklet telling the story of evening at 9 o'clock (eastern daylight time ) through stations trusively. It blends agreeably with Atwater Kent Radio —wear New Yorks; wy ar Providence; wEE1 Boston; your decorations and furnishings. ATWATER KENT MANUFACTURING CO. wrt Philadelphia; wc ak Pittsburgh; w Gr Buffalo; ww i ; A. Atwater Kent, Prestdent Detroits wcco Minneapolis-St. Paul; woc Davenport; Anotheris, with twenty-two years of 4741 WISSAHICKON AVE., PHILADELPHIA, Pa, WsAl Cincinnati. MOt # g ‘ i i h i t d in Canad Prices slightly higher from the Rockies west, and in Canada Séena, $0,900 Relic Dpsshaasabin woe iesen see

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September 15, 1925 “MUIGEL SILKS” *'The Selvage Will Tell if —= Made by Migel”’ 4 It is easy to make a frock of y authentic charm from Moon- nies Glo Crepe. The 54-inch width No. 8105 with jacquard border design cuts easily and economically and the exquisite quality of the all-silk fabric is a guarantee of your pleasure in wearing it. On sale at leading silk counters — ' ed ae everywhere, REG. U.S. PAT. OFF, charming jacquard designs in the new 54-inch width At the smart ready-to-wear shops you will find exquisite frocks whose authentic charm is based on Moon-Glo Crepe. The superb quality and charming jacquard border designs of this all-silk fabric is there combined with the smart styling and fine workmanship of America’s leading dressmakers. MOON-GLO. VELVA BROCHE. PIERRETTE. og 35 2: 7A AAS. 2B ‘25. eM IGEL*, oe Se

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168 The feature of this dress of Reade’s Loreline is its stylish collar which may be worn open or buttoned smartly to the throat. The vestee is of contrasting silk crepe, trimmed with fine tucks and dainty buttons. Two generous box plaits with flap pockets give fullness to the skirt. Sizes: 14 to 40. Colors: Navy, Grey, Dragon, Wine, Sparrow. Specially priced at $29.50 170 Dresses must flare says Paris, as this model of lustrous crepe-back satin cleverly illustrates. The collar which may be worn either high or low is trimmed with gold thread embroidery as are also the cuffs. A circular flounce and string-tie belt embellish the skirt. Sizes: 14 to 40. Colors: Black, Wine, Crayon, Cocoa, Green. Specially priced at $29.50 Se 174 Exceedingly youthful is this dress of gleaming crepe-back satin with its jaunty bolero effect emphasized with bands of the material reversed and two rakish pockets. The vestee and turnover collar which may be worn high or low is of satin crepe in con- trasting color trimmed with buttons as are also the cuffs. Sizes: 14 to 40. Colors: Black, Navy, Cocoa, Bokhara, Crayon. Specially priced at $29.50 \ | Ak on, Ohio. ..... A. Polsky Co. Albany, N. Y., Cotrell & Leonard Amsterdam, N.Y..Cramer & Co. Appleton, Wis. Pettibone, Peabody Co, Arkansas City, Kan. Newman Dry Goods Co. Atlanta, Ga..... J. P. Allen Co. yo) ee Michael Bros. Athens, Ohio. The D. Zenner Co. Bakersfield, Calif. Malcomb Brock Co. Battle Creek, Mich....... Klein's Binghamton, N.Y. Fowler, Dick & Walker D.G.Co. Birmingham, Ala. Loveman, Joseph & Loeb Bloomington, ]II.S.Livingston’s Sons / Boise, Idaho. . . ... The Mode, Ltd, Bridgeport, Conn... Rockwell Co. Buffalo, N. Y...... Flint & Kent Butte, Mont. t Symons Dry Goods Co. Canton, Ohio. Stern & Mann Co. Cedar Rapids, la. MartinD.G. Co. Chambersburg, Pa... .Leiter Bros. Charleston, S. C. Kerrison Dry Goods Co. Charleston, W. Va. Coyle Richardson, Inc. Charlotte, N. C...... J. B. Ivey Chattanooga, Tenn. . The Vogue Chicago, Ill. At your favorite store Cincinnati, O. H. & S. — Co. Cleveland, Ohio. .... Higbee Co. Columbus, O. F. & R. Lazarus Co Colorado Springs, Colo. Wilbur Suit Co. Dallas, Texas Neiman-Marcus Co. Danbury, Conn. John McLean, Inc. Danville, Va..... ... L. Herman Davenport, lowa M. L. Parker Co. Dayton, Ohio Elder & Johnston Co. Denver, Colo. Daniels & Fisher Dry Goods Co. Des Moines, Iowa . Younker Bros. Dubuque, Iowa . Roshek Bros. Co. Duluth, Minn.. .W.H. Bruen Co. Elmira, N. Y. E. L. & M. Sullivan El Paso, Texas .Popular D. G. Co. Erie, Penna... Erie Dry Goods Co. Evanston, Ill...Lord’s Dep't Store Fairmont, W. Va. J. M. Hartley Son & Co. New York: Arnold, Constable & Co. MORAGA RA mA SAG eta RE Fort Smith, Ark .Wolf Poliock Co. Ft. Wayne, Ind. Wolf & Dussauer Ft. Worth Texas W.C. Stripling Co. Fredericksburg, Va. Maurice Hirsh Galveston, Texas Robert I. Cohen Grand Rapids, Mich. Friedman, Spring Dry Goods Co. Green Bay, Wis. J. H. Golden Co. Greensboro, N. C.The Meyers Co. Hagerstown, Md... Leiter Bros. Hammond, Ind. Ed. C. Minas Co. Harrisb rg, Pa...... Hartford, Conn... .G. Fox & Co. Hollywood, Cal... Robertson Co. Holyoke, Mass.. .Rose McDonnell Houston, Tex........ Foley Bros. Hudson, N.Y...K. V. Clark, Inc. Huntington, W. Va. Zenner Bradshaw Co. Indianapolis, Ind. Wn. H. Block Co. Jackson, Mich.. ...L. H. Field Co. Jacksonville, Fla... . Cohen Bros. Jamestown, N. Y. House of Burnett Kalamazoo, Mich... .E. A. Porter Kansas City, Mo....... B. Adler Knoxuille, Tenn. ....... Miller's Lampasas, Texas Stokes Bros. & Co. Lancaster, O.. Chas. P. Wiseman Lancaster, Pa. Watt & Shand, Inc. Lansing, Mich. J.W. Knapp & Co. Lexington, Ky....Wolf Wile Co. Lutle Rock, Ark.... Pfeifer Bros. Los Angeles, Cal... Harry Fink Co. Brooklyn: Abraham & Straus ' & LESS EELS EE OE a a

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GUE September 15, 1925 ; Sty etree 169 This womanly model of heavy crepe- ; back satin has a vestee of embroidered f the : Venise lace which also forms the high-low collar. Bands of satin crepe in contrasting pom color set off the lace and trim the bands one which ornament the waist. Flowing side ogg 3 panels enhance the skirt. Sizes: 14 to 44. lors: 4 Colors: Black, Cocoa, Navy, Wine. on. Specially priced at $29.50 aD | CRRA ESGR RS mca eR 167 Strikingly original is this dress of heavy crepe-back satin. It is distinguished by the effective use of bands of embroidery i: con- trasting color on the skirt, cuffs and high- low collar. Side flares give a stylish swing to the skirt and there is a two-tone satin tie. Sizes: 14 to 44. Colors: Black, Navy, Cocoa, Bokhara. Specially priced at $29.50 171 This smartly tailored, coat-effect dress is made of Reade’s Loreline and the collar and cuffs are faced with silk in contrasting color. Rows of fine tucks emphasize the flowing lines as do also the well placed but- tons and double pocket. Sizes: 14 to 44. Colors: Navy, Black, Sparrow, Dragon, Grape. Specially priced at $29.50 Ge nn Louisville, Ky.. H. P. Selman Co. New York City Portland, Ore... .Meier & Frank St. Jose Tampa, Fla......... Maas Bros. ss j Logansport, Ind. z ; Arnold Constable Co. Poughkeepsie, N. TY. Seated Wyatt & Wahl Terre Haute, Ind... The May Shop Schmitt-Kloepfer Co. Norfolk, Va.....Smith & Welton Luckey Platt Co. St. Paul, Minn. Mannheimer Bros. Trenton, N. J. k Co. 1 | Tee ea Lacey's Norwalk, Ohio Providence, R. I... ... Gladding's Salt Lake City, Utah ae fi. Voorhees & Bros. 4 Co. ; Macon, Ga... ... J. P. Allen Co. The B. C. Taber Co. Quincy, Ill... .Hallbach-Schroeder Walker Bros. Dry Goods Co. Tulsa, Okla..... .. Seidenback's a Marinette, Wis...... Style Shop Oklahoma City, Okla. KerrD.G.Co. Racine, Wis... .Zahn D. G. Co. San Francisco, Cal. Willards, Inc. Utica, N. Y.. . .Doyle-Knower Co. Memphis, Tenn. Porter . ___ B. Lowenstein & Bro. Adler 5 Meridian, Miss. Winner Klein Co. ‘ller"s J Miami, Fla......., . Burdine’s er Middletown, N. Y...L. Stern Co. 7 Co Milwaukee, Wis.. The Unity Shop iain 4 Minneapolis, Minn. .Dayton Co. Cie ; Mobile, Ala... .C. J. Gay fer Co. 2Co. 4 Nashuille, Tenn... . . Lebeck Bros. “ Co. a New London,.Conn. Bros. Réckwell & Co. ‘k Co. q New Orleans, La. D. H. Holmes Co. Owensboro, Ky. S. W. Anderson Co. Pawtucket, R. I... Bernstein's Inc. a | ee Clarke & Co Petersburg,Va........ Sol Cooper Philadelphia, Penna. N. Snellenburg Co. Pittsburgh, Penna. Kaufmann's—**The Big Store” Phoenix, Ariz. .Switzer Style Shop Pontiac, Mich....... Waite Bros. Portland, Me... .J. E. Palmer Co. ' Richmond, Va.. . Thalheimer Bros. Rochester, Minn. E. A. Knowlton Co. Rome, Ga...... J. Kuttner & Co. Rutland, Vt....... Chas. Sterns Saginaw, Mich. The Wm. Barie Co. Salem, Mass. ° Almy, Bigelow & Washburn, Inc. San Jose, Cal....... Prussia Co. Santa Barbara, Cal. B. F. Kerr & Cc. Shreveport, La. Dreyfuss D. G, Co. Spokane, Wash... Haddad, Inc. Springfield, Ill.. .S. A. Barker Co. Springfield, Mo. Levy, Wolf Dry Goods Co. South Bend, Ind. The Ellsworth Store Stockton, Cdl... J. F. Donovan Co. Savannah, Ga. B. & H. Levy Bros. Sh, Oa Jackson's acoma, Wash. Meyer Jacob Co. If your town is not listed address the makers, M. K. & I. H. Inc., 550 Seventh Ave., New York Vicksburg, Miss. Valley D. G. Co. Waco, Tex.. .Goldstein Migel Co. Washington, D. C. Frank R. Jelleff Co. Waterbury, Conn... Forrester Co. Wausau, Wis. Heinemann Bros. Ca. Wheeling, W. Va. Stone. Thomas Wichita, Kan. The Geo. Innes Co. Wilkes-Barre, Pa...... Isaac Long Wilmington, Del....... Rosen's Youngstown, Ohio. McKelvey Co.

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Sef VOGUE 36 oF SPECIALISTS IN FINE UNDERWEAR FOR ZO YEARS harming an d lovely @ BAD) % in a = nad ~ meee oF ee There must be no hint of : . underwear bulkiness to Gentle softness of fabrics, . : — se mar the trim lines of slen- dainty edgings, carefully ; . der frocks Over the finished seams, and deft d Gl b T il dainty garment pictured, reinforcements where wear In styles and textures to conform with the new autumn modes, Globe Lailor- oaegion we : are y. 5) your lovely gowns will pra noted nt Made underthings are now on display. drape with flawless per- } fe € - ection. guish oa rary bear- In planning the fall and winter wardrobe, you will surely want to examine pan haw thw Globe label. ee these perfectly tailored and exquisitely finished garments. GLOBE KNITTING WORKS GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN. ROBISCHON & PECKHAM CO. NEW YORK CHICAGO co —— Sng if

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OGUE re 2 hint of ess £0 of slen- er the ictured, ns will ess per- September 15, 1925 Les Fashionables Now Adopt The Exquisite New Ensemble Idea In Bed Napery -e BONNIE SUIT SILK SHEETS AND PILLOW SLIPS IN COLOUR ED napery must no longer be banal. Fashionable women do not now permitthemselvestobecaughtnappingin prosaic linen. The reign of the ensemble —of animated colour arrangement — has extended itself to the bedroom. Ina word, smart femininity everywhere is adopting with avidity the beautiful new BONNE NUIT silken naperies! .... Those who are not already dream- ing amidst their alluring colourings are dreaming of them! More than 30 inimi- table shades. Tints slumbrous as rose leaves; hues vivid as lipsticks; a nuance to harmonize with every type, toilette, temperament, mood or tense! BONNE NUIT Bed Ensembles are made of heavy, durable silk crepe. The seamless sheets measure 72x108 inches. The pillow slips are full-size, in boudoir style. Finely hemstitched through- 417 Fifth Avenue Dept. N1. out. As easy to launder as one’s personal silken lingerie ..... On sale at all the best shops. Created Exclusively by Golding fabrico( orp iat er Send for the interesting New York City q BONNE NUIT booklet P

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2 IRE a a tw Ie HE # coe a ccs st AN ES I et om meme ss RE aa ceiiteidiieieieadietcnenea ete

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September 15, 1925 ; P| bd 4 * ee

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40 New Styles in Dress Shields | 5 apes Shields nowadays are as varied as the dresses they protect and as dainty as the woman who wears them. White or flesh colored; large or small; covered with nainsook or silk—sizes and styles for every gown. Kleinert’s Dress Shields and Dress Shield Garments are guaranteed to protect your dresses, to keep them free from even the suspicion of odor, and to repay careful and frequent launderings with long and satis factory service. For the sake of your pretty frocks, ask the saleswoman for Kleinert’s Dress Shields. ~ Grok By 2s SSB SEER res ee A Kuermert’s Slip-Over Dress Shield Guimpe THE I. B. KLEINERT RUBBER COMPANY 485 Fifth Avenue, New York City Hip Reducer The Miracle Way to Slenderness | pecan continues to demand slender figures and Kleinert’s Miracle Reducers continue to assure them. From removing a double chin to producing ankles of intri- guing slimness, all the problems of reducing have been met by ingenious MIRACLE garments. Their effectiveness is due not only to their scientific design but to the superior rubber of which they are made—the same pure odorless rubber which women and in- fants have been wearing safely in Kleinert’s products for the last 40 years. Ask for Kleinert’s Miracle Reducers at your favorite corset shop—a competent fitter will help you choose just the garment you require. Kleinert’s Mrracie

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GUE a September 15, 1925 Produced by SILK DEPARTMENT Haas Brothers Fabrics Corporation Fifth Avenue, New York. 41 SATIN VOUVRAY BAGDAD SATIN CREPE SIAM NADJA BAGDAD FAILLE MOLESKIN SUPERIOR KITTENS EAR CREPE (A faille back reversible satin in a weave with the sheen of - filtered sunshine on limpid waters a ‘featuring this "1 ‘a can be — at rT" -to-wear departments Also by the achat retail Silk departments re olana,

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VOGUE ep

tints ess COATS AND SUITS

| NE of the many smart wraps which Printz has designed for Fall - | and Winter wear. «~~» PRINTZESS apparel is advertised and shown by a leading store in your city. This store also features the new PRINTZESS PETITE models — dis- tinctive garments, especially designed for the requirements of the shorter figure. <» The Printz Biederman Company, New York and Cleveland. Prices range from $55 to $195. +

_ Look for this Label. It is the etsation of as " smart garment, “ae Sour guarantee of qual ve ;

Ys if Y) i DISTINCTION IN DRESS=SINCE 1893 [J

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‘ * +

ly 6 S al u > , : ‘ fo a Lala : : _— 34 & S% = | : ~ <a

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Sep VOGUE ,OZ779 ELYSEES ’ ASTORG-. PARIS (8)_TEL «nr PARIS te. JHOPS & VOGUE CH VY COUTURE _29 RUE D

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IGUE =". — —_' if September 15, 1925 Tho SHOPS of VOGUE én PAR! JEAN PATOU SES ROBES SES ENSEMBLES DE SPORTS SES PARFUNS PARIS 7, RUE Sf FLORENTIN DOEVUILLET DRESSES WRAPS FURS LINGERIE ot Wr «® oy 24, PLACE VENDOME-PARIS MI LUCIEN LELONG l6,RUE MATIGNON PARIS & DRESSES FURS & \e (Left) Taponler, Paris HE rue de la Paix is a luxurious street—so lux- urious, in fact, that, to some people, it is rather formidable. Unless one is very rich or very assured, or both, the glittering vitrine displays, the line of dignified door-men, the eternal parade of fashion are apt to be intimidating. For this reason, it is particularly pleasant to find in, perhaps, the most imposing block of its- brief length a shop like Worth. It upholds, none better, the traditions of feminine elegance, but does it in so simple and ingratiating a manner that to pass it without en- tering is almost impossible. WHERE CHARM PERVADES It is hard to put the finger—even a small white feminine finger of great virtuosity—on the charm of the place. But it begins, surely, with the door-man. In all of Paris, there are many pleasant door-men, but the smile of Abel is, perhaps, the most disarming. The same God that made Mary Pickford’s smile must have made‘ this. It may be the vivid blue, star-studded bottles in the window that first attract the eye, those bottles that house the famous ‘‘Dans la Nuit,” or just the right bag for Carlotta’s twenty-third birthday present, but, certain it is, there is no entering with reluctant feet. And, once inside, a woman is lost to her resistive im- pulses. For, directly across the sill, a feminine para- dise greets the eye. It’s a Parisian rhapsody in bags, bracelets, vanities, necklaces, lingerie, sports acces- sories, and négligées. If you shop all over Paris, you can obtain things as perfect, with a great amount of trouble and time, but to find them garnered under one roof is to be at grips with opportunity. (Continued on page 46) Jean Worth, of the house of Worth 7 3 NY nd DRECOLL WRAPS LINGERIES 45 Tho SHOPS of VOGUE ¢a PAR ‘DRESSES WRAPS FURS . LINGERIE — PERFUMES PARIS 7. RUE DE LA PAIX LONDRES 3. HANOVER SQUARE BIARRITZ 7, PLACE be LA MAIRIE DOUCET DRESSES WRAPS FURS LINGERIE i I 21, RUE DE LA PAIX.PARIS drevesfurslingerie lO. PLACE VENDOME PARIS. MARTIAL er ARMAND PARIS 10 PLACE VENDOME 158, RUE DE LAPAIX LONDRES ISALBEMARLE STREET WI

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46 The JNORS of VOGUE 21 PAR COUTURE S574 Rue S'tonord DARIS A eae COUTUR FOURRURE aom a ee 35 AV DE LOPERA PARIS an CHANTAL && PARIS 4 rue de Mondovi (PLACE DE LA CONCORDE ) drewes wraps furs AL rT ST ZS (Continued from page 45) Perhaps, it would be giving too much credit to say that Worth was the first to make the modern hand- bag that contains all the necessities and vanities for the day’s journey, but, certainly, this house has per- fected the device. Under an unbelievably compact and bulgeless exterior are secreted a complete and intriguing array of pockets within pockets, tiny vials, match pouches, make-up wares, note-books, pencils, cigarette cases, mirrors—ad infinitum. INNOVATION IN DETAILS Here, especially, is the home of the novelties of fashion, those incidental, yet important accessories that accent the individuality and chic of a costume and that elude the search of the uninitiated—bracelets that are just the proper width, buckles in the newest designs, bags in the smartest colours. It would be easy to continue indefinitely on this first floor, with such things as cashmere négligées in delicate shades, seen nowhere else in Paris, and soft lingerie of ex- quisite design and workmanship, but it is only a prologue to the panorama of the clothes above-stairs. In the grey salon on the second floor, where the défilé of the mannequins takes place, you are met by the super-vendeuse. She is attentive, kind, and, above all, guided by your wishes. She seems to give you no more than a tactfully casual glance, but you soon find, when you enter upon the serious business of selecting frocks, that she knows as much, if not more, about your figure than you do. And it is exceedingly educa- tional to have an unbiased opinion of the figure. Hips (Continued on page 47) VOGUE Se; Tho JMOPS of VOGUE in PARI § Zhe —_— LOUISEBOULANGER CHAMPSELYSEES SRUE DE BERRI DRESSES 116 FURS : MANTLES LINGERIE =GRECO™= THE LEADING PARISIAN STYLE CREATOR IN WOMEN’S SHOES IN PARIS 4 RUE DES CAPUCINES NICE: 1, rue de RIVOLI (Hétel Negresco) CANNES: CASINO : DEAUVILLE: 4, rue GONTAUT BIRON (Casino) BIARRITZ: 6, AVENUE EDOUARD VII 6,RUE DE LA PAIX PARIS OR

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OGUE > PARIS @) De SHOPS of VOGUE PARI PAIX September 15, 1925 >=. PARIS. glbre S' Honoré Anc’ Vendome) WORLD'S BEST FURS _ AND BEST STYLES GRUNWAIDI 6 RUE DE LAPAIX PARIS BOIVIN BPRS oka CHEMISIER SPORE DRESSES 10, RUE CASTIGLIONE .PARIS- (Continued from page 46) are apt to broaden surreptitiously, upper arms to fatten insidiously, and it is well to have complete self- knowledge. Here, the good and bad points of the figure are considered in an individual and, at the same time, comfortingly impersonal manner. The collection itself is mammoth, consisting of six hundred gowns shown twice daily on twenty-four mannequins. Subtlety of cut and youthful designs pervade it. There is an amazing number of simple, wearable gowns that you will find with joy are practi- cal for you—with a little adaptation. “Adaptation” is the word constantly on the lips of the vendeuse, for, despite the size of the collection, no gowns are made in series. The individuality of clients is kept within the limit of fashion. They are advised, informed, but in no way dictated to, and, because each dress is changed slightly to meet the demands in figure and colouring of its purchaser, women are spared the annoying experience of seeing themselves in replica all over the Riviera, Deauville, or wherever they happen to be. The Messieurs Worth, Jacques and Jean Charles, scatter their personal attentions about with fine dis- regard for the importance or dignity of the clients assembled. Whether a woman buys one gown or eleven seems to be a matter of indifference to them. They hold perpetual at home to all. Courtesy is a tradition with them. Their grandfather, who founded the first maison de couture, nearly eighty years ago, was a man bred to the rigours and noblesse oblige of court cus- toms. He dressed all the queens, and, to this day, every woman is treated like one by his descendants. (Continued on page 48 ) 47 The INOS of VOGUE 2: PAR’ Alix-Lebreton is,rue. de Turin e7ruedeMarignan (CHAMPS ELYSEES) PARIS TEL:ELYSEES 41 - 07 Sports clothes Finest quality knitted jumpers Hats MARTEL REGNIER THE FAMOUS PARISIAN ACTRESS&MILLINER WILL BE PLEASED TO SHOW YOU HERLATEST MODELS IN THE DELIGHT: “FUL ATMOSPHERE OF HER PRIVATE HOUSE 51, RUE FRANCOIS !* PARIS ITMARTHE REGNIER HAS ALSO CREATED AN ENTHRALLING Ayano DRESSES WRAPS LINGERIE their Paris House. ST AN“* FRANCAISE MILLINERY Their exclusive designs are now under the personal direction of Monsieur DECIO ROSSI, who has with him a very efficient staff of artists for the creation of his mod- els, which are only obtainable at 11, Rue de Penthiévre, Paris »

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48 EVENING COAT AMY LINKER LADIES TAILOR, and DRESS MAKER 7,.RUE AUBER PARIS RANDOLPH THE READY-TO-WEAR HOUSE RANDOLPH, 1n tHE rve DE LA PAIX MAKES A SPECIALTY OF A COMPLETE LINE OF ready- to-wear DRESSES WITH THE TRUE PARISIAN CHIC. IF YOU COME TO PARIS, YOU ARE RE- CEIVED IN HIS SALONS BY AN ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF. IF YOU ARE IN AMERICA, YOU CAN BE SERVED BY MERELY WRITING FOR HIS CATALOGUE, AS HE IS IN A POSITION TO DO BUSINESS DIRECT AND IS AL- READY SERVING A LARGE AMERI- CAN CLIENTELE BY MAIL-ORDER. OUT-SIZES A SPECIALTY. PRICES FROM 500 FRANCS UP RANDOLPH 20, Rue de la Paix, PARIS JEAN MAGNIN Che new Lanisian dressmaker dresemaler Ine toc sede la Tour tocar thi at 20m. 1725, where created and. degns secon Teeter IN PARIS 22 RUE D’AGUECSAZEAU (Continued from page 47) Monsieur Jean Philippe Worth, the son of the origi- nal Monsieur Worth and uncle of the present directors, can still be seen at the establishment on certain days, attending to clients who will have no one else design their clothes. On his way through the salon, with a bolt of some rare fabric over his shoulder, he may stop and talk to you, as you are choosing a little frock of nothing at all that would crush into the size of a regulation golf- ball. And he will tell you of the days when women chose trimming by the yard from strips of white muslin to put on dresses that completely filled the tray of a trunk. DEMEANOUR IN THE ’EIGHTIES When a mannequin walks by with no back at all to her gown, he will relate how models showed the elaborate décolletage of the ’seventies and the ’eighties demurely dressed in little pink silk shirts buttoned to wrist and neck, so that they might keep their self- respect under the scrutiny of the public eye. And, one thing leading to another, he will describe the days when the Czar’s sister, the Grand Duchess Marie, came to buy her gowns at Worth, surrounded by all the ceremonies and ladies in waiting of the Kussian court. Thus, the time passes most agreeably, and, while you are engaged in selecting the perfect clothes for the back, you obtain, without:any effort at all, just the right history for the background. VOGUE Tho JMOPS of VOGUE in PAR PLACE DE LA BOURSE PARIS and BIARRITZ AIX LES BAINS MONTE CARLO YTEB dresses jerseys 14,RUE ROYALE 14 PARIS et diCANNES wr ® ~~ - 2a DE LI 21 Fi sSANOr: Founded in!I850 _IS THE GREAT PARISIAN SPECIALIST IN LADIES HAND BAGS AND CREATOR OF SMART MODELS eRe COUTURE eH 11 RUE DELA BOETIE PARIS 8. Rue dela Paix PARIS 77R

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September 15, 1925 49 OARS The JMOPS of VOGUE 22 PAR The JMOPS of VOGUE ia PARI Aine Montailleé Ss 1, Place Vendéme Paris Uf DRESSES - COATS - TRICOTS LINGERIE MILLINERY © 10, rue de Castiglione PARIS RLO HE French know that no woman can rise above her hat. A badly proportioned gown can hide its grace- lessness behind a tea-table, and a beautiful figure can mini- WELL] SOEURS mize the evils of a badly cut one. But a hat is never off parade, and its lines remain the same, whether a woman walks, runs, or sits. It is seen in entirety from all angles. N A N & E U i L More than this, it is the frame for the face, that concentra- tion point of personality. It can swallow a chin. It can put out of countenance the loveliest eyes. If it is a shade ) too heavy, the light is taken out of a profile as surely as a DRESSES MODES candle can be hidden under a bushel. And it can destroy WRAPS COUTURE the continuity of an entire costume. FURS LINGERIE For these many reasons, a woman does not buy a hat from a counter in Paris as she buys a handkerchief or a pair of ; Li NG ERIE gloves. Fortunately, the modiste intervenes between her and q self-destruction and says firmly that a hat must be built on ) 3 4 TS FO the head that is to carry it, so that all the good lines of its possessor may be accented and all the bad ones covered up. 8. RUE DE CASTIGLIONE, PARIS AMONG THE MILLINERS (Place Vendame) 2 FAUBOURG S! HONORE 21-_ However, even with these precautions, there is always the 14 ; [A FI SS hazard of the milliner to take. As in everything else, there IES are good and bad artists, and a woman in the hands of a aa nea ot blundering hat fitter, no matter how well meaning, can be shorn of her beauty with one snip of the scissors, much in pee ' the manner that Samson went down before Delilah. The super-milliners of even Paris can, alas, be counted on the , fingers of the hand. Ty l S One of the best of these, something to pin the faith to, lief oeur S is the house of Camille Roger, on the rue de la Paix. Found- ed by a gentlewoman in the ’eighties, this house has ever since maintained a reputation for chic and artful hats. Perhaps, one reason for this is the fact that the woman who (Couturier S is now the director has been with the establishment for the (Continued on page 50) / e ROSE DESCAT LT 77 Rue des Petits Champs modes Ree PARIS 7 22.RUE ROYALE.22 PARICT

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50 | VOGUEB . The JNOPS of VOGUE in PAR The JNOPS of VOGUE in PAR -

_ FORMERLY DEFFONTAINE MARGUERITE GERMAIBPE STYLISH NILLINERY TS RUE ROYALE .PARIS ELYSEESI9_04 tonpres MONTE-CARLO peggy vite COUTUR | A ot

MARIGNY (Place Beauvau) ; PARIS — a e : (Continued from page 49) ROLANDE last twenty years. To see Madame Priska is to feel a great surge of confidence in the future of one’s hats. She is a Watteau lady without benefit of make-up, perfectly groomed ee = to her finger-tips. Her hair is prematurely grey, her eyes a

heavenly deep blue. Her most striking costume is black, G Coat with a scarf lined in the colour of her eyes and pearls only a owns ° oe shade more lustrous than her skin. Furs ¥ Lingerie AESTHETIC COMFORT Sports-Suits The same taste that animates her own costume reappears Perfumes CYBERIA 7 in the Camille Roger salon. The walls are blue, and the Pion PHEPIE. woodwork is delicate macaroon. The chairs have soft blue velvet seats, into which the figure sinks gratefully at the IRZAVENVE DES intervals between fittings. A rounded mirror is strategically CHAMPS ELYSEES placed between two huge French windows, round at the top, PARIS P so that a choice of colour and line can be made in full and ARIS natural daylight. Below these windows are cushioned seats

made colourful by black satin shawls fringed in green and a deep tone of peach. The floors are covered with a thick pile so that footsteps are softened, and the whole atmosphere is one of rest and relaxation. The sounds of the rue de la Paix are subdued and remote. Here, undisturbed, a woman can give herself up to the serious business of hats. The height of a crown is varied an eighth of an inch; the brim is cut away to the most becom-

ing width by swift scissors in trained hands. The whole . fabric of the hat is changed in an inconceivably short time, ANDREE while Madame Priska hovers near to be sure that a client’s & PERRIER | zeal is equalled by her experience and taste, and the result THE WOMANS TAILOR OF DISTINCTION. is a hat that satisfies every feature and glorifies the face.

‘ -_ | N PARIS, in Europe, read French lpmtiy, ~~ - . Vogue. edna it, ——o Gs 7 DE U x o its sister, ’Américaine ‘Taste its y, v4 } « S A VA R if wholly Gallic ania spirit, elegance. ReseS y<* Y ¢ LAU DIN if DRESSES Read its news of Paris and of | 7 ih WRAPS Europe. In its advertising pages, 4 be RBoR f find the names and addresses that Y 97 RUE TRONCHET PARIS io es Ge make dead letters of your pre-sailing Vv; n " ? Rue des Capuci. notes on where to buy. On sale at , we ngno THE SPECIALTY SHOP “ pucines the kiosks everywhere, 4 francs. Paris Deauville lingeri e de luxe PARIS VOGUE i FRENCH AND SCOTCH Next door to the Lloyds and 2 Rue Edouard VII Paris Te. Cenbial 03.5% TRICOTS-SPORT HATS Provincial Bank reasonable prices BO e_ ]/LEMONNIER) [ea 3 BUT SMARTEST © BERTHE UMBRELLA 4 ermaine SAVIGNY so RAE A AW] | PAR Guerin he BE tee VENDOME SE the smartest ladies hand- wilt CORSETIERE cage:\ WILSON iis, Sentotes Snel, ve for over 25 years : , a ; dressing cases N y 23 t _ a &,Rue Duphot 243, rue Sain t-Honoré . I.RUE S HONORE PARIS Place Vendéme, ; O, RUE ROYALE-PARIS PARI Paris.

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OGUE n PAR TAINE TE 3{— d ARIS - EAU VILLE ) 0 ats erie ES EES RIS R | FINCTION x INE RIS OP xe ‘CH September 15, 1925 fe JAOY of VCBUE ir NEW YORK 22 EAST S6T STREET NEW YORK. © Deanswaliors catering to an exclusive C Private Clientele Qif models are original and ave the exclusive @yeations of Evelyn WNcHor ler HULA CULHH AUNT HiAMMIAU AMUN Announce the Completion of their FALL MODEL COLLECTION MOuRNING or Aristocrats AUTUMN Hats Wraps Coats and Gowns for Fall 19 East 49% St. New York Catalogue 10 W. soth Street New York Paris sends bewitching little BONNETS AND FROCKS for the Fall Season Everything for Infants and Girls to 14 years- Boys to 4 years Models of exquisite simplicity, designed, stitched and embroidered in Paris by French Needlewomen Jd ag of French Models will be made to order atvery reasonable prices MADAME WILL BE SERVED BY FRENCH SALESWOMEN (No Catalogue) JOCIETY i INEW YOM Births Chambers.—On July 7, to Mr. and Mrs. William Ely Chambers (Hazelle N. Wiseman), a daughter, Cathleen Ely Chambers. Cleveland.—On July 28, to Mr. and Mrs. Robertson L. Cleveland (Janet Gregory), a daughter. Cohu.—On July 4, to Mr. and Mrs. La Motte Turck Cohu (Didi Havée Muus), a daughter, Anne Turck Cohu. Colgate.—On July 25, to Mr. and Mrs. S. Bayard Colgate (Anne Burr), a son. Fargo.—On July 25, to Mr. and Mrs. James C. Fargo (Dorothy D. Stuart), a son, James Congdell Fargo, third. Frey.—On July 7, to Mr. and Mrs. Walter Guernsey Frey, junior, (Josephine Meredith Whitehouse), a daughter, Phoebe Meredith Frey. Mellor.—On July 5. to Mr. and Mrs. Rowland Fisher Mellor (Mary Cumming), a daughter. Deaths Babcock.—On July 29, at Jefferson, New Hampshire, Elizabeth Babcock, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Daniel D. Babcock. Bigelow.—On July 20, Edward Payson Bigelow, husband of Mary F. Ashley Bigelow, —F Haven.—On July 21, George Griswold Haven, husband of Dorothy James Haven. Henning.—On July 7, James W. Henning. Henroten.—On July 16, Mabel Burrows Henroten, wife of Norris B. Henroten. Lindabury.—On July 15, Richard Vliet Lindabury, husband of Lillie Van Saun Lindabury. Marcus.—On August 1, William Elder Marcus, husband of Mary Chapin Marcus. Perkins.—On July 14, Norton Perkins, husband of Ethel W. Holbrooke Perkins. Van Renssclaer.—On July 23, Mabel Gertrude Mascn Van Rensselaer, wife of Peyton J. Van kensselaer, of Boston, Mass- achusetts, and New York. Warner.—On July 30, Lucien Calvin Warner, husband of Keren Osborne Warner. Engagements Daniels - Tremaine.— Miss Grace M. Daniels, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Daniels, of Buffalo, New York, to Mr. Lawrence Tremaine, son of Mr. and Mrs. Morris S. Tremaine, of Buffalo, New York. Davis-Talbot.—Miss Wellesley Parsons Davis, daughter of Mrs. Henry Brooks Davis, of Cornwall, Connecticut, and New York, to Mr. Charles H. V. Talbot, son of Mr. and Mrs, John D. B. Talbot, of Hamilton, Bermuda. Engagements—Continued Dexter - Burton.— Miss Sarah Endicott Dexter, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Endicott Dexter, of Boston, Massachusetts, to Mr. Howes Burton, son of Mr. and Mrs. John Howes Burton, of Cedarhurst, Long Island. Fleck - Richards.— Miss _ Elizabeth Madeleine Fleck, daughter of Mrs. Mary Fleck, of Englewood, New Jersey, to Mr. Guy Huntington Richards, son of Mr. and Mrs. George Richards. Francis - Gaylord.— Miss Katharine Witherbee Francis, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Wheeler Francis, to Mr. Bradley J. Gaylord, son of Mr. Harvey R. Gaylord, of Buffalo, New York. Garfield - Comer.— Miss Lucretia Gar- field, daughter of President Harry A. Gar- field, of Williams College, and Mrs. Garfield, to Mr. John Preston Comer. Gould - Weist.— Miss Elien Gould, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Harry G. Gould, of Oshkosh, Wisconsin, to Mr. John Rollin Weist, son of Mrs. Harry H. Weist. Haughton - Parker.— Mrs. Percy D. Haughton to Mr. Augustin H. Tarker, of Boston, Massachusetts. Havemeyer - Thorne.— Miss Helen Mitchell Havemeyer, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John F. Havemeyer, to Mr. Henry Sanford Thorne, son of Mr. Victor Thorne and Mrs. Tracy Farnam, of New London, Connecticut. Hocking - Stehli.— Miss Sybil Hocking, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Hocking, of Honolulu, to Mr. Henry E. Stehli, son of Mr. and Mrs. Emil J. Stehli. Hubbard - Graff.— Miss Eleanor Close Hubbard, daughter of Dr. William Norris Hubbard and Mrs. Hubbard, to Mr. Manton Louis Graff, son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Graff, of Jersey City, New Jersey. Hyde - Baldwin.— Miss Elizabeth Hyde, daughter of Dr. Fritz Carleton Hyde and Mrs. Hyde, of Greenwich, Connecticut, to Mr. Henry Perrine Baldwin, son of Mr. and Mrs. Arthur D. Baldwin, of Cleveland, Ohio. Jones - Heffelfinger.—Miss Ruth Jones to Mr. George Wright Heffelfinger, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frank P. Heffelfinger, of Minneapolis, Minnesota. Manning - Allen.— Miss Edith B. Manning, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John A. Manning, of Springwood, Londonville, New York, to Major Jerry de la M. Allen, son of Colonel Samuel E. Allen and Mrs, Allen, of Brooklyn, New York. O’Ryan-Curtis.—Miss Dorothy Holmes O’Ryan, daughter of Major-General John F, O’Ryan and Mrs. O’Ryan, to Mr. Darwin Curtis, son of Mr. and Mrs. A. D. Curtis, of Chicago, Illinois. (Continued on page 52) 51 Te JAOW of VAGUE “NEW YORK BruuckDieirs MILLINERY 6 West 57th Street A step from Fifth Avenue NEW YORK The World’s Show Place of Fashion HATS, GOWNS, COATS and WRAPS Prices Never Excessive S now showing one of the most beauti- ful collections of Lingerie and import- ed linens to be found in New York. Tea Gowns —Négligées Sport Clothes BRIDE'S LINGERIE : Made to Order using Rose Point and other Real Laces 442 Madison Avenue NEW YORK Telephone Plaza 1225 ~ - MAIDS’ &’NURSES’ UNIFORMS Send for Catalog A 19 West 57th St., N. Y. Telephone Plaza 2573 TODHUNTER ireplace Prep Equipment Hand forged replica of an Early English basket grate, for wood or coal ANDIRONS FirETOOLS, SCREENS Illustrations upon request 414 Madison Avenue New York

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52 See [HOW 9f VQBUE “NEW YORK OR APARTMENT, a visit to the Exchange, will disclose many valuable yet almost un- known Service Departments. A member of the staff will gladly ac- company visitors through the building. DO YOU KNOW OUR EXCELLENT RESTAURANT? DELICIOUS MEALS— S ATTRACTIVE SERVICE— A DELIGHTFUL RENDEZVOUS | NEW YORK EXCHANGE | WOMAN’S WORK 541 Madison Avenue NewYork 18 East 46th Street New York Just returned from Paris is now showing SMART PARIS MODELS and Copies in brilliant Autumn colorings and newest designs One flight up) ( New York A SMART SHOP where youthful and distinctive Fall Fashions may be found in all sizes $18.75 up GOWNS for Street, Afternoon and Evening Gladys Hatch Millinery for all occasions Mademoiselle, Petite Madame and her larger sister will find a wide variety of be- coming models, POVLIL TY wm NEWYORK (Continued from page 51) Engagements—Continued W eddings—Continued Redman-Brunet.— Miss Edythe Redman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Walter H. Redman, of Bronxville, New York, and New York, to Mr. Meade Brunet. Swords-LaFarge.—Mrs. Charles’ R. Swords, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. — H. Jacquelin, to Mr. Oliver H. P. La arge. Weddings Burdette - Mackenzie.— On July 25, at Colebrook, Connecticut, Mr. Myron Parker Burdette, of Washington, D. C., son of Mrs. Sidney Neale, and Miss Cornelia Mackenzie, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Clinton Mackenzie. Cook-McCord.—On August 15, in Saint Luke’s Church, East Hampton, Long Island, Mr. Francis Howell Cook,-:son of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Francis Cook, of Sag Harbor, Long Island, and New York, and Miss Janet McCord, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. David Walter McCord, of East Hampton, Long Island, and New York.: Craik - Hennessy.— On August 25, Mr. Douglas Elliot Craik, son of Mr. and Mrs. John Craik, of London, England, and Miss Margaret Hennessy, daughter of Mrs. Daniel J. Hennessy. Duell-Otis.—On July 6, at London, Eng- land, Mr. Prentice Van W. Duell and Miss Anna E. Otis, daughter of Mrs. Mary B Otis, of Cleveland, Ohio. Fuller-Farley.—On July 14, at North Adams, Massachusetts, Mr. Samuel L. Fuller, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel L. Fuller, of Knot Hill Farm, White Plains, New York, and Miss Marjorie Farley, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Timothy C. Farley, of North Adams, Massachusetts. Lincoln-Rockefeller.—On September 26, at Greenwich, Connecticut, Mr. Frederic W. Lincoln, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick W. Lincoln, of Greenwich, Connecticut, and Miss Isabel Rockefeller, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Percy A. Rockefeller. Morris-Thaw.—On September 5, at Southampton, Long Island, Mr. A. Newbold Morris, son of Mr. and Mrs. Newbold Morris, and Miss Margaret Copley Thaw, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Josiah Copley Thaw, of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and New York. Pratt-Tiffany.—On August 26, at Isle- boro, Maine, Mr. John T. Pratt, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. John T. Pratt, of New York, and Miss Mary Christy Tiffany, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George S. Tiffany, of Saint Louis, Missouri. Reynolds-Hilles.—On August 1, in the Remsenburg Church, Speonk, Long Island, Dr. George Stoddard Reynolds and Miss Elisabeth Lee Hilles, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles D. Hilles. Robbins-Schreiber.—On September 5, in the Watch Hill Chapel, Watch Hill, Rhode Island, Mr. John William Moore Robbins, son of Mrs. Edward Robbins, of Greensburg, Pennsylvania, and Miss Elsie Wendell Schreiber, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Otto A. Schreiber. Thomas-Turner.—On August 8, in Grace Episcopal Church, Mr. Felix Thomas, son of Mrs, Alfred Thomas, of Dayton, Ohio, and Miss Mary Hunt Turner, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. T. Fitzhugh Turner, of Saint Louis, Missouri. Thyberg-Dows.—In September, at Fox Hollow Farm, Rhinebeck, New York, Mr. Knut Richard Thyberg, son of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Thyberg, of Lindesberg, Sweden, and Miss Margaret Dows, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Tracy Dows, of Washington, D. C., and New York. Wharton-Wade.—In Bayard Wharton, son of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Wharton, of Chestnut Hill, Pennsyl- vania, and Miss Ruth Wade, daughter of Mrs. G. Knight B. Wade. W eddings-to-Come Bartow-Woodland.—On October 24, in the Episcopal Church, South Orange, New Jersey, Miss Edith S. Bartow, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Nevett Steele Bartow, to Mr. H. Ee Woodland, son of Mr. Theo- dore M. Woodland, of West Orange, New Jersey. Chisolm-Du Bois.—In October, Miss Elizabeth H. Chisolm, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. B. Ogden Chisolm, to Dr. Robert Ogden Du Bois. Field-Evans.—On October 10, Miss Kathryn Pearsall Field, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Pearsall Field, of Short Hills, New Jersey, to Lieutenant Houston Val She JHOPS of VQGUE “NEW YORK VOGUE Pleasingly Parisian Exquisitely fashioned in the Vogue, favored for fall. Black Suede, Patent Trim Brown Suede, Brown Kid Trim Patent Coltskin 16% Savoie Prompt Attention to Mail Orders Send for New Style Booklet ANITY OOT SHOP 11 West soth St., N. Y. September, Mr. . 8177 a 8177—Match holder and ash receiver $2.00 804—Glass jar filled with bath salts $3.75 861—Pin cushion, china figure $1.35 2508—Leather Florentine hand bag $3.25 1804—Pleated silk bag, silk lined $3.25 1544—Rhinestone shoe buckles. Pair $10.50 Garters in all colors and initials. Pair $1.50 1313—Rhinestone Shoe Buckles. Pair $4.00 7308—Flask, %4 pt. hammered pattern $5.00 4211—Cut steel shoe buckles. Pair $5.50 2854—Diamond cut crystal choker, uniform or graduated beads Evans, junior, son of Major Houston Val Mail Orders Filled Booklet V on Request Evans and Mrs. Arthur Wallace Case, of ~L A CHAPEL LE _ importer ot Monterey, California. Suite 615 500 Fifth Ave. Now vork panes > er ASR Soctal Events SMART MILLINERY Tennis.—Sepiember 14, at the West Side copied Tennis Club, Forest Hills, Long Island.— Men's and Veterans’ National Turf Singles. Tennis.—Week of September 17, at the West Side Tennis Club, Forest Hills, Long Island.—Women’'s National Championship Matches. Dog Show.—September 26, at Tuxedo, New York.—Tuxedo Kennel Club Show. Horse Show.—September 109, at Green- wich, Connecticut. (Continued on page 53) GOWNS opments in the new materials and colors for day and evening wear The mode's latest and most chic devel- 11 West soth St. New York INCORPORATED HATS Inaugurating a unique new department: HATS of smartness with emphasis upon harmony with frock or gown and remodeled Illustrating passe hat and recreating design An economical idea approved by fashionable women every- where Felts, Milans, Horse-hair, Bang- koks, and Straw Shapes of all kinds Reblocked and Trimmed into Fashionable Models of Today Immediate attention to orders by mail IRENE FRANKS 18 West 49th St., New York Tel. Bryant 1567 V ( ase & we > oe owt P aw pdt 42 0

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GUE * o ~ 1544 ng- nds nto Ly ail September 15, 1925 The. SHOPS OF VOGUE 2 % ‘ ad ba charming strap-slipper conception create by Ben Lewis Mail Orders Promptly Filled Send For New Style Brochure ber qure 2307 BROADWAY 29 WEST 50th ST. N.¥. C HOSIERY REPAIRED RUNS in all makes repaired invisibly by the CE We specialize in the repair of FRENCH SHEER STOCKINGS Charges—50c to $1.50 “Let Us Run Out Your Hosiery Runs” ES er ae Bc Deca et Oh oe) Bas ERY REPAIR SERVICE we 2 West 47th Street New Ycrk, N. Y. Mail Orders Filled RESS, accessories, coiffure— these may be perfect. But the lack of assurance, or a jarring note in conduct may cancel everything. The Editors of Vogue have pub- lished Vogue’s Book of Etiquette, covering every social contact. That débuts, dinners, weddings— even divorces—may be in keeping with the custom of polite society, you need but fortify yourself with a copy of this famous book. $4, postpaid from Vogue. 53 SOCIETY in NEW YORK (Continued from page 52) Soctal Events—Continued Soctal Events—Continued Horse Show.—September 19, at Smith- town, Long Island.—The annual Smithtown Horse Show, which usually opens the autumn sports and society season on Long Island, will take place on Saturday, September 19, at Fifty-Acre Field, the property of Mr. Law- rence Smith Butler, near the Smithtown polo field. This show is the first of the autumn exhibitions on Long Island, and many socially prominent people are arrang- ing house-parties and other entertainments for the week-end. Officers of the show are Mr. Devereux Emmet, president; Mr. Edward H. L. Smith, vice-president; Mr. Lawrence Smith Butler, secretary; and Mr. Ernest B. Osborne, treasurer. The executive com- mittee. consists of Mr. Lawrence Smith But- ler, chairman, Mr. Edward H. Carle, Mr. Devereux Emmet, Mr. Robert Gilmore, Mr. James W. Lane, Mr. Arthur B. Lawrence, Mr. Frederick D. MacKay, Mr. William A. Minott, Mr. Alonzo Potter, Mr. Clarence H. Robbins, and Mr. R. Lawrence Smith. Polo.—September 19, at International Field, Meadow Brook, near Westbury, Long Island.— The American Open Polo Championship will be the leading tournament on the 1925 polo program. The Monty Waterbury Cup Tournament will be played immediately after, and the two events will draw the lead- ing players in the United States and, prob- ably, several foreign stars to Long Island. Flower Show.—September 25, on the es- tate of Harold I. Pratt, Glen Cove, Long Island. —The Annual Dahlia Show of the Nassau County Horticultural Society will be held in the Horticultural Building of the Harold I. Pratt estate. This is one of the most import- ant early autumn shows and brings together the finest blooms of the outdoor gardens from many of the most pretentious estates in America that are located on the North Shore of Long Island. Hunt Race.—October 31, at Peapack, New Jersey.—The Essex Hounds. Ball.—October 27, at the Hotel Astor.—Mrs. Julian W. Robbins and Captain William B. Franklin are in charge of the preparations for a ball to be given for the benefit of the Na- tional Navy Club. Opera.—November 2.—Opening night of the Metropolitan Opera Company. Bazaar.—December 12 to 19, at the Grand Central Palace-—A Christmas Bazaar will be held for the benefit of the Lenox Hill Neigh- borhood Association and the Association for the Aid of Crippled Children. Mrs. Marshall Field is chairman of the committee, and Mr. Thomas S. McLane is chairman of the ad- visory board and treasurer. It is planned to make the bazaar the biggest and most elabo- rate of its kind ever held in this city. Two floors of the Grand Central Palace will be turned into a miniature city. There will be five streets and two avenues, with eighty shops and booths constructed on all sides, from which visitors may purchase their Christmas gifts. he main floor will be devoted to booths and the midway. On the mezzanine floor, there will be tea- and supper- rooms, two ballrooms, and two complete little theatres. One of the ballrooms will be open for public dancing, the other for private dancing. One of the little theatres will- be exclusively for children. It is planned to have both circus and vaudeville perform- ances in both theatres. Toyland will, of course, be an important part of the bazaar. Mr. Francis Hartman Markoe will prepare the setting, and associated with him will be twenty-five artists and decorators. Junior Assembly Dances.—December 4, January 8, and February 5, at the Ritz-Carlton. —These are subscription dances for the débu- tantes of the season and for girls who have been out one year. The permanent com- mittee includes Mrs. Richard C. Colt, chair- man, Mrs. Herbert L. Satterlee, Mrs. Walter Phelps Bliss, Mrs. Marshall J. Dodge, Mrs. Robert L. Stevens, Mrs. James G. King, and Mrs. Herbert L. Pratt. Knickerbocker Assembly Dances.— November 28, January 16, and April 10, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.—The subscribers to these dances will be young women who have been out in society three years or more. As the date chosen for the opening dance is that of the Army and Navy football match here, the dance will undoubtedly be a great success. These dances will be a continuation of the Junior Assembly Dances that have an ever- growing subscription, which is too large to include girls who have been in society for more than two years. Yorkville Dances.—December 1, Decem- ber 15, January 12, February 9, and February 16, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.—These supper dances are for the benefit of the Yorkville Community Association. Metropolitan Dances.—December 29 and March 27, at the Ritz-Carlton. Miss Robinson’s Dances.—December 21 and December 22, at the Plaza Hotel.—The Junior Dance will be held December 21, the Alumnae Dance December 22. Holiday Dances.—ai the Plaza Hotel.— Mid-Holiday Dance, December 23; Senior Holiday Dance, December 28; Junior Holi- day Dance, December 30. Miss Benjamin’s Supper Dance.— December 30, at the Park Lane. Débutante Plans Dance.—November 25, at the Ritz-Carlton.— Supper dance for Miss Ruth Fahnestock, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Harris Fahnestock. Dance.—November 27, at the Ritz-Carlton.— Supper dance for Miss Grace Hays, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William H. Hays. Dance.—December 18, at Pierre’s.—Din- ner-dance for Miss Rosalie Evans, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Hartman Kuhn Evans. Tea.—December 18, at the Park Lane.— Tea for Miss Frances M. Patten, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry A. Patten. Tea.—December 21, atthe Park Lane.— Tea for Miss Alice E. Parsons, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edgerton Parsons. Dinner.—December 22, at the Ritz-Carlton. —Dinner in the Crystal Room for Miss Rosa- lind Barnum, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William N. Barnum. Dance.—December 22, at the Ritz-Carlton.— Supper dance for Miss Marion Wickes, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Forsyth Wickes. Dance.—December 23, at the Ritz-Carlton.— Supper dance for Miss Rosamond S. Auchin- closs, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles C. Auchincloss. Dinner.—December 23, at the Ritz-Carlton. —Dinner in the Crystal Room for Miss Ora Mallory Davis, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas B. Davis. Dance.—December 28, atthe Ritz-Carlton.— Supper dance in the ballroom for Miss Doro- thy Ledyard, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Lewis C. Ledyard, junior. Dance.—December 28, at the Ritz-Carlton.— Supper dance in the Crystal Room for Miss Violet Tangeman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Cornelius H. Tangeman. Dance.—December 20, at Pierre’s.—Mr. Grafton Minot will give a dance for Miss Honora Winthrop Mason, niece of Mrs. Joseph G. Minot, of Boston, Massachusetts. Tea.—December 20, at the Park Lane.— Tea for Miss Elizabeth N. Drummond, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Howard Drum- mond. Dance.—December 30, at the Ritz-Carlton.— Supper dance for Miss Virginia Pratt, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. John T. Pratt. COREAN SILK BED SETS Blanket protector—Corean silk, hand-made trimmed with fine, cream Bianche lace. Single size $25.00 Double ‘‘ $27.50 Pillow of finest down, covered with Corean Silk. Corean pillow-slip edged with cream lace. Complete $18.00. Colors—Light pink, flesh, pale blue, apri- cot, white, orchid. Illustrated catalug upon request Carlin ©mforts Ine 528 “Madfson Ave. - at 54th St- New York IN TH = SHOP vel; 1 C/ \osen bla 749 inn Reson New Q orks Pntecior Decorator @ Smporter Oyjels ot When you visit New York this winter, do not forget to visit the Shops of Vogue. They give you the ‘different’ things. They are the Cartiers, the Vuittons, of their special lines (and they all have special lines). Shop in them to be a gourmet, a connoisseur among shoppers!

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PosED BY Miss JuLIA Hoyr PHOTO MURAY ©ransformations as made by Manuel are er 29 Eat 48th </treet, sig

for your dressing-table SKIN FOOD—every skin needs this excellent nourishment. CREME A LA ROSE—a delight- ful powder foundation. SPANISH BALM—to be used in the evening to whiten the skin. ANGELA VARONA’S OWN PERFUME—the final touch to charm. ANGELA VARONA 22 EAST 55th STREET

NEW ~- YORK - CITY Booklet Plaza 4056-J on request Plaza 8822 RESS, accessories, coiffures— these may be perfect. But the lack of assurance, or a jarring note in conduct may cancel everything. The Editors of Vogue have pub- lished Vogue’s Book of Etiquette, covering every social contact. That débuts, dinners, weddings— even divorces—may be in keeping with the custom of polite society, you need but fortify yourself with a copy of this famous book. $4 postpaid from Vogue.

VOGUE T BEA T THIS time of the year, there A comes that inevitable day in every woman’s life when she must account to her beauty for the wrongs done to her hair in the season past, when she has allowed the sun in its intensity to beat mercilessly down upon her uncovered head, forgetting its harm in the enjoyment of her game on the tennis-court or on the golf-links. To the average woman, this is not the only charge that can be brought against her as to her treatment of her hair, for her lustreless locks bear mute testimony to their frequent baths in salt water. AN EFFECTIVE SHAMPOO In many cases, it is necessary to call upon the services of an expert to efface the marks of neglect, but, often, the restoration to a well-groomed and sleek head may be brought about by a home treatment. The shampoo is one of the most effective means of bringing back the soft and shining qualities that mark perfect grooming of the hair. A simple shampoo that is recommended by specialists for home treatments is made of a generous quantity of castile soap that has been boiled to a liquid. It should be generously and thoroughly applied to the hair and scalp in two washings before the rinse is begun. Soap in cake form should never be rubbed on the hair or scalp. Too much can not be said for the helpful qualities of oil for the hair, particularly in the treatment for the restoration of lights and softness. The night before the hair is to be sham- pooed, hot olive-oil should be rubbed carefully into the scalp and allowed to remain that its work may be done overnight, then thoroughly washed out in the shampoo. The last, but by no means the least important operation of the shampoo, is the rinse. The hair should be rinsed at a warm temperature until every trace of soap is removed. For blond hair, there is an old-fashioned remedy that comes down from grandmother's day and consists solely of two ounces of camomile leaves dissolved in water the night before it is to be used as a rinse. After a few such shampoos, there will be a bright and shining glory where once there was only dulness, un- less the rigours of the summer have been really devastating, when it is nec- essary to consult a specialist. A suitable hair-brush is a helpful ally in the cause of bringing back a sleek appearance to the coiffure, and, to effect its mission, the brush should be used both in the morning and at night. A woman can employ a smile or a frown to hide the telltale truths upon rei NTSs O Sm Me her face, but she has no means of hid- ing from the world her character ex- pressed in her hands, in their smallest gesture or in repose. The shape of the hands and fingers is as important as their careful grooming. It takes genera~ tions and infinite care to produce sen- sitive and lovely hands and one short summer, in the garden or at sports, to reduce them to terms of coarseness. Away from the atmosphere of summer sports, such disfigurement should be removed at once. Immediately at the close of the sum- mer season, one should give detailed care to the bleaching and softening of the hands by means of healing oils, creams, and bleaches. Before one re- tires, a cream should be applied to the hands. This may be either ordinary cold-cream or one of the soft bleaching creams; thus, it is while one sleeps that the tissues of the hands become de- sirably soft and white. TO PROTECT THE HANDS Gloves are necessary to protect both the hands and anything which the hands may touch, and such gloves should be chosen with care. Chamois gloves, large and loose, or chemically treated muslin gloves are the most de- sirable. A small hole should be cut in the palms of the chamois gloves to allow the skin to breathe. Rubber gloves are best for fat hands and should be kept on until the hands are perspiring freely. They should then be removed, the perspiration gently rubbed away, and cold-cream instantly applied. For thin hands, gloves should be worn only long enough for the pores to open to receive the skin food. In the bleaching process for the arms and hands, the cucumber comes to the fore and takes its place beside the rightly exalted lemon. It may be used in the same siniple way. The cucumber possesses bleaching and soothing quali- ties that have earned for it a place in the sunburned patches. When the hands suffer from negli- gence or exposure, the finger-nails are the first to show the disastrous results in a ragged and unkempt appearance of the cuticle. Caring for the finger-nails is one of the easiest and most effective home treatments. White vaseline or an oil applied every night softens the cuti- cle so that it is pliant for shaping. The worst crime that can be committed against the beauty of the finger-nails is to cut the cuticle. It should be shaped carefully with a rounded orange-wood stick. A sharply pointed nail is not the one to point the way to beauty; rather, it should be rounded, following the natural shape of the nail.

Has Summer left its mark? Thoughtful women will perpetuate the radiant glow of health by hav- ing Mary Grey’s strapping muscle face treatments. It cleanses the pores and rebuilds the worn tissues —leaving exquisitely textured skin. The oldest Beauty Salon in New York giving the above treatment, Mary Grey —. Seen —SAghiens and clears the skin—$1.25 a pot. Mary Grey Skin Tonic—Closes relaxed pores, makes face firm and smooth—$4, $2, and $1 a bottle. Mary Grey Cleansing Cream—Removes impuri- ties from pores, keeps skin pliant—$3, $1.50, and $1 a jar. Ask for Mary Grey’s Book on Skin Health. important: Mary Grey preparations are not sold in any store, bvt are sent absolutely fresh di- rect from the Mary Vek Yr Cy Grey Laboratories. 7” West Fifty-First Street At Fifth Avenue, New York Phones: Circle 7135-7633

HE Kipling Lady who at forty-nine out-shone the flowerlike loveliness of seventeen did not (who'll take this wager?) leave to God and the weather the care of her skin, her finger tips, her chin-line, her— well, it used to be called her figure! ©And—probably— she started taking precau- tions not many moons after she’d turned seventeen. And —without doubt—had she known them she would have taken her precautions in the very Shops of Vogue that are listed on this page.

Service Permanent Waving Daylight Hair Dye Hair Bleach Marcel Wave Water Wave

oe) 26 West 58th Street Opp. Hotel Plaza New York

Se Louis is superior to any you have heretofore known. Moderate Charges—Consultation Without Obligation Telephones: Plaza 7179-7059 Hair Cut Shampoo Manicure Scalp Treatment Lady Anne Facial 683 Fifth Ave. at 54th Street New York

O more salt sea-waves in your hair; no more oceans inside a hemisphere of rubber; no more sunny sands, and sandy sun-baths; and— thank heaven!e—the gleam and the golden high lights that make hair lovely will come back, if you give them half-a-chance. And here, on these pages, are listed some coiffeurs who’ll give them much more than half-a-chance for renascence!

Sep

| } CoatA One tion of of Coat compile The 1 of Coa Family recogni: to patre signers The J Heraldr upon re

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(UE k? uate hav- iscle the sues skin. tiving clears pores, nd $l ipuri- $1.50, ealth. Mary ations n any | sent ne nd he ve he re September 15, 1925 th | YW dll XX OOLS > UY Ny JHOPS _ OF VOGUE H Coat ARMOUR OF GEweHAL GEORGE WASHINGTON 1 of Coat Armour of leading families in America One of the important records among the collec- tion of over two thousand authenticated indices compiled by this Establishment! The undoubted prestige established by the use of Coat Armour on Personal Stationery, the Family Silver, Jewelry and Equipages is fully recognized. The Department of Heraldry offers to patrons the services of the best Heraldic De- signers in America. The Handbook of rules for the proper uses of Heraldry in America will be mailed postpaid upon receipt of fifty cents. BAILEY, BANKS &? BIDDLE CO. JEWELERS, SILVERSMITHS, STATIONERS Established 1832 PHILADELPHIA ARISIENNES manifestly —hats by Reboux, gowns that derive their patent of nobility from Chanel. But all their friends know they haven’t been twenty miles from Rittenhouse Square for months. They do their shopping on Chestnut and Walnut Streets, with Vogue under their left arms, and the Shops of Vogue in Philadelphia as their ports of call. PHILADELPHIA BOSTON Births Birth Anthony.—On July 18, to Mr. and Mrs. Roscoe T. Anthony (Winifred O. Clarke), a son, Louis S. Clarke Anthony. Barratt.—On July 24, at Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to Mr. and Mrs. Norris S. Barratt, junior, (Evelyn R. Drayton), a son, Norris S. Barratt, third. Butler.—On August 3, to Mr. and Mrs. John L. Butler (Marion F. Sharpless), a daughter. Crockett.—On June 19, to Mr. and Mrs. Charles Burbank Crockett (Mary_Fhillips Burgwin), a son, Charles Burbank Crockett, junior. Cummings.—In July, to Mr. and Mrs. J. Howell Cummings, junior, (Isabella Wana- maker), a son. du Pont.—On July 15, to Mr. and Mrs. William du Pont, junior, (Jean L. Austin,) a daughter. Hagerty.—On July 20, to Mr. and Mrs. Sheward Hagerty (Dorothy Cheston Frow- ert), a daughter, Ann Frowert Hagerty. Hardwick.—On July 15, to Mr. and Mrs, Gordon Hardwick (A. Marjory Taylor), a son, Taylor Hardwick. Irwin.—On July 6, to Mr. and Mrs. Sam- uel Browning Irwin (Margaret Neill Paul), a son. Lippincott.—On July 26, to Mr. and Mrs. Bertram Lippincott (Elsie Hirst), a son, Barton Hirst Lippincott. Lukens.—On July 21, to Mr. and Mrs. Edward Clark Lukens (Frances B. Day), a daughter, Anne Blakiston Lukens. Munoz.—On July 9, to Mr. and Mrs. Gonzalo C. Munoz (Vivienne du P. Watkins), a son. Scott.—On July 2, to Mr. and Mrs. Edgar Scott, junior, (Helen Hope Montgomery), a son, Edgar Scott, third. Deaths Gates.—On July 25, at Lake Louise, Canada, Emma Gibson Gates, wife of Thomas S. Gates. Harrison.—On July 7, at London, Eng- land, Alfred Craven Harrison, junior, hus- band of Marie M. Gibson Harrison. Engagements Rogers-Biddle.— Miss Katharine C. Rog- ers, daughter of Mrs. John I. Rogers, to Mr. Eric Harbeson Biddle. Thayer-Almy.—Miss Gertrude Thayer, daughter of Mrs. George C. Thayer, to Mr. William E. Almy, son of Mrs. Charles Platt. Weddings Talbott-Thayer.~-On August 11, in the Church of the Redeemer, Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, Mr. Harold E, Talbott, son of Mrs. Harry E. Talbott, of Dayton, Ohio, and Miss Margaret Thayer, daughter of Mrs. John B. Thayer. SAREE Bonw FU hestn Philadel phias Fhirte it TellereCo. rS ut at B% enth & oi PgR Carty.—On June 26, to Dr. John Russell Carty and Mrs. Carty (Mary Pierce), a son, John Russell Carty, junior. Death Rodman.—On July 27, Harriet D. Risley Rodman, wife of the late Alfred Rodman. Engagements Dexter-Burton.—Miss Sarah Endicott Dexter, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Endicott Dexter, to Mr. Howes Burton, son of Mr. and Mrs. John Howes Burton, of Cedar- hurst, Long Island and New York. Redmond-Barker.— Miss Charlot Fran- ces Redmond, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles D. Redmond, to Mr. Robert Walker Barker, of Cynwyd, Pennsylvania. Towle-Russell.— Miss Caroline Towle, daughter of Dr. Harvey Parker Towle and Mrs. Towle, to Mr. Henry Sturgis Russell, of Santa Barbara, California, and Boston, Massachusetts. Weddings Brooks-Balke.— in August, at Paris, France, Mr. Francis Brooks, son of Mr. and Mrs, Frederick Brooks, of Boston, Massachu- setts, and Miss Katherine Balke, daughter of Mrs. McKeon Balke, of New York and Cincin- nati, Ohio. de Wolf-de Wolf.—On July 27, at Bristol Rhode Island, Mr. Bradford Colt de Wolf, son of the late Francesco de Wolf, and Miss Gertrude Bradford de Wolf, daughter of the late Bradford de Wolf, of New York. Eliot-Bigelow.—In September, Mr. Theo- dore L. Eliot and Miss Martha Bigelow, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Albert F. Bigelow. Haynes-Morse.—On August 10, in the First Church, Boxford, Massachusetts, Mr. Winthrop Perrin Haynes, of Paris, France, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick M. Haynes, and Miss Anna Hooker Morse, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Lewis Kennedy Morse. _White-Hicks.—On July 30, in the Leslie Lindsay Chapel of Emmanuel Church, Mr. Lawrence Warburton White, son of Mrs. Franklin D. White, of Milton, Massachu- setts, and Mrs. De Forest Hicks. Painted Tole Sconce A gem of craftsmanship in either red or black with gold decoration suggesting the Elizabethan. Price $22.50 Bigelow, Kennard & Co! Jewelers Est. 1830 Silversmiths WEST & WASHINGTON STREETS BOSTON O Te, ESTABLISHED 18618 C@ CLOTHING: > Gentlemens Furnishing ie MADISON AVENVE COR. FORTY-FOURTH STREET NEW YORK . BOSTON LITTLE BUILDING Telephone Beach 4743 Complete School Outfits for Boys PALM BEACH PLAZA BUILDING County Reae NEWPORT AUORAIN BUILOING 220 Gcucwwe Avenve HEN you have to go to town to shop, you might as well make it a pleasant semi- social matter, instead of a hurried dive into a vast, hot store, to buy the new autumn sports hat or the party shoes. Try, next time, the Shops of Vogue: cool as may be, quiet, dis- criminating. You’ll ac- complish twice as much in half the time, with enough left over for tea at the Copley-Plaza before you catch your train. ESE

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See JAOM of VQGUE CHICAGO

Here Is Presented ‘ America’s Smartest Footwear CHWOLFELT CO .. 58-60-62 East weet Street . CHICAGO, ILLINOIS oe Always Something New for the s ‘ Follower of Footwear Faskion OUR COLLECTION OF FINE junior, son of Mrs. Ethel R. Dunham, and Miss Virginia Taylor, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Lloyd B. Taylor. / Lobkowicz-Lihme.—On August 29, in the Chapel at Watch Hill, Rhode Island, Prince Edward Joseph Lobkowicz, son of the late Prince August Lobkowicz and the former Countess Palffy, of Vienna, and Miss Anita Lihme, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. C. Bai Lihme, of Watch Hill, Rhode Island, and es Illinois. Watt - Hancock.— In September, Mr. Alfred Riddiford Watt, son of Mr. and Mrs Frank Watt, of Kenilworth, Illinois, mew Miss Anne Spencer Hancock, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. W. Scott Hancock, of Saint Louis, Missouri.

Barbour.—On July 10, Levi L. Barbour. Brumme.—On July 10, Carl L. Brumme, husband of Stella Krebs Brumme. Cady.—On July 8, William B. Cady, hus- band of Myra Post Cady. Field.—On July 29, Florence Lillian Field, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Vincent Field. Leonard.—On July 31, C. Henri Leonard.

Engagements

Grace-Connelly.—Miss Isabel Frances Grace, daughter of Mrs. Homer Grace, of Washington, Pennsylvania, to Dr. Basil L. Connelly, of Detroit, Michigan. Taylor-McNaughton.—Miss Edna Lane Taylor, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Taylor, to Mr. John R. McNaughton, son of Mrs. Margaret McNaughton. Weddings Clark-Russell.—On June 27, at Kansas City, Missouri, Mr. Rufus W. Clark, son of Mrs. Rufus W. Clark, and Miss Mary Rus- sell, of Kansas City, Missouri. Dunton-Harrigan.—On August 10, Mr. Arthur Clement Dunton, son of Mr. Delmar Hall Dunton, and Miss Mary Catherine Harrigan, daughter of Mrs. John F, Harrigan.

Fars of Quality | Jn the Smartest Modes || WOMEN

Decreed by Jashion MISSES CHILDREN BSiEGELG me cowacton wm sor

When you shop because you want to— the shops of Vogue in Chicago and Detroit will make your pil- grimage a delight. Fun to shop in such shops, exciting to find that there are shops that so realize your ideas of what clothes or decoration ought to be. fe When you shop because you must— something forgotten, something worn out,—these same shops will make the trip less a burden. In them will be precisely—not ap- |; proximately—what you are look- || ing for, from shoes to ships.

SHOPSof VOGUEin CHICAGO;

Furs -

Authoritative in Chicago— Wraps - JOHN LSHAYNES@ MICHIGAN AT RANDOLPH Gowns

CuasA:Stevens:& Bros CHICAGO | | Fine Feminine Footwear The Basis of Correct | Costuming

Sante

(M Imy 510 Sutt. San Frar

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5 ‘GUE * eptember 15, 1925 UE he JOY of VAGUE ” CALIFORNIA HE fadbes 6.60. _ Ait. at Pot St.,Sanfrantyoe roadway at Morison, Portland, Ore, FURS: FROCKS | -\ COATS SUITS | ACCESSORIES Ox Jor thedbcerning LOS ANGELES SAN FRANCISCO Birth Births De Long.—In July, to Mr. and Mrs. Clyde Munroe De Long (Rachel Anderson), a daughter, Annabelle De Long. lity | des ' jon ILDREN | | | Novel and — | Attractive ‘hicago | Negligees ur pil- | to shop ” to find realize 1cH Chinese hes or damasks, brilli- antly hued, with all the atmosphere of the Orient, fashion the Saams. . 550 and 855 nething ps will ‘. len. In |f Miss Clayes “ “a ; ORIENTAL ARTS : ?. d | 214 Post Street said San Francisco, Calif. Santa Barbara Leos Angeles ILCAGO} ca eee amma Invited | ) 3Ros |# e | (Mrs. George W. Nickel) ne | yf Imported Models 540 Sutter St. 1137 Douglas Ave. an Francisco Burlingame California Engagements Bullock-Abbott.—Miss Margaret Bul- lock, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Gillespie Bullock, to Mr. James Poole Abbott, son of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Lee Abbott, of Waco, Texas. Fiske - Childs.— Miss Virginia Fiske, daughter of the late John Sage Fiske, of New York, and Mrs. Samuel Robinson, of Santa Barbara, California, to Mr. Blair Childs, son of Mrs. Harvey Childs, junior, of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Thompson - Chapman.— Miss _ Helen Dryden Thompson, daughter of Mrs. William P. Thompson, of Glendale, California, to Mr. Philip Miles Chapman, son of Mr. and Mrs. Ward Chapman. & Wedding Simpson - Wigmore.— On August 5, Mr. Frank Simpson, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frank Simpson, and Miss Marion Francesca Wigmore, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Herbert Wigmore. W edding-to-Come ‘Morello - Helm.— In October, at Phila- delphia, Pennsylvania, Miss Rosa Hunnewell Morello, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, to Mr. Harold Helm, son of Mrs. Lynn Helm, of Los Angeles, California. Cotor IS PART OF THE HOME in southern California — a vital part, too. The employment of color—vibrant, subtle, en- riching—in the furniture and furnishings at Barker Bros., is both a response and an encouragement. Your requeS to be placed on the mailing list of ‘Better Homes,’’ a mag- azine issued at frequent intervals during the year, will be honored with immediate attention. BARKER BROS. OF SUCCESSFUL HOMES BROADWAY BETWEEN SEVENTH AND EIGHTH - LOS ANGELES Goodwin.—On July 23, to Ensign Hugh Hilton Goodwin and Mrs. Goodwin (Eleanor Welty), a daughter. cNear.—In July, to Mr. and Mrs. E. Denman McNear (Mary H. Kittredge), a son, Denman McNear. Deaths Holbrook.—On July 18, Charles Holbrook. Whiting.—On July 26, at Berkeley, Cali- fornia, William Henry Whiting, husband of Etta Afong Whiting. Weddings Chase-Martin.—On September 12, Mr. Rodney Chase and Miss Florence Martin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Adams Martin. Dabney-Graham.—On August 22, in All Saints-by-the-Sea Church, Montecito, Cali- fornia, Mr. Charles W. Dabney, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles W. Dabney, of Santa Barbara, California, and Miss Geraldine P. Graham, daughter of Mrs. Pollock Graham, and Mr. William Miller Graham. Dilworth-Fowler.—On September 5, at Wellesley Park, Redwood City, California, Mr. Harrison P. Dilworth, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Harrison P. Dilworth, of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and Miss Amy Edith Fowler, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward John Fowler, of Wellesley Park, Redwood City, California. Newsom - Elliott. — On August 4, in Saint Peter’s Chapel, Navy Yard, Mare Is- land, California, Lieutenant Joel Newsom and Miss Alice Sherwood Elliott, daughter of on Middleton Stuart Elliott and Mrs. iott. COMPLETE FURNISHERS 57 Se [HOPS of VOGUE “ (AUFORNIA Pa LIZABETH ARDEN wishes to remind you of the importance of car- ing faithfully for your skin. Telephone for ap- pointments: Kearney 3428. + Elizabeth Arden 233 Grand Avenue SAN FRANCISCO NEW YORK: 673 Fifth Avenue LONDON: PARIS: 25 Old Bond Street 2 rue de la Paix ANTIQUE & MODERN TEXTILES POTTERY FURNITURE RUGS MURAL MAPS ; athered fromn aris to am COLLEGE AVENUE ct WEBSTER STREET BERKELEY ir CALIFORNIA

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Lake Como SpecialWinterVoyagesdeLuxe to the MEDITERRANEAN By the New Palatial Liner DUILIO 24,281 Reg. Tons, Quadruple Screw February 2 March 11 NEW YORK MADEIRA GIBRALTAR ALGIERS NAPLES GENOA The utmost in comfort, service and luxury of accommodation are the out- standing features of the DUILIO, the largest and fastest oil-burner to the M.diterranean, and sister-ship to the famous GIULIO CESARE. Other Sailings to the Mediterranean by the GIULIO CESARE Sept. 22 DUILIO COLOMBO Oct.3 Nov.7 Oct. 24 Dec. 2 For rates and further information apply to NAVIGAZIONE GENERALE ITALIANA Italia America ateeing Corp. 1 State Street, New York General Agents or Local S.S. Agents CRINOLINES ~ | Mayfair Bouse, ! See hundred lon Park Avenue ew Pork We DEVOTEthe space of this advertisement to assuring the woman { who wants plenty of accommodation for y her clothes, that the, y9 MAYFAIR devotes more space than this to its closets! They're wideenoughand deep enough forCrinolines! Edward H. Crandall FURNISHED OR OTHERWISE ¥ OCTOBER OCCUPANCY \ NEGOTIATIONS NOW Sev \ Representative on Premises Brown, Wheelock: Harris, Vought & Co., Inc. EUROPE WITH TEN PER CENT. OFF TEAMSHIP companies are queer animals. Very, very intelligent. But capricious. As a rule, they charge a lot for the first characteristic, though not more than it’s worth. Then, all of a sudden, capriciousness bobs up—what else could it be >—, and they reduce all first-class fares on the At- lantic ten per cent., just at the time of all times when the truly smart woman would prefer to travel. From July thirty-first to March thirty-first, this marvel- lous bargain day afloat goes on its glorious career. And the smart woman knows what momentous events on her private calendar occur between these dates. THE PARIS OPENINGS From the fourth to the twenty-first of August—the Open- ings. There are the new colours; the new silhouette; proces- sions of models long enough to turn the heads of all the wives of Solomon; jewellery; shoes; accessories of every kind that spring into favour overnight and run their raging and colour- ful way for a week or a year. Every buyer in the world is there scheming and thinking and looking—for twenty-seven feverish hours a day. In the middle of August, Deauville and Le Touquet are at their height. There are millions of things to see, do, and talk about. Then, on the first of September, comes the exodus of all the chic Parisiennes to the Lido and Biarritz, and the gay- est of the gay little seasons there while Paris lies back and rests, and the northern coast resorts tuck themselves in for the winter. AUTUMN IN PARIS The first of October sees the charming butterflies all home again, ordering clothes. Perhaps, the smart American has chosen in September, after the buyers and before the Pari- sienne, in that magic month when the haute couture welcomes the stranger with open arms and collections still breathlessly intact. Perhaps, she waits till October and chooses from the collections after her sophisticated guide, philosopher, and friend-by-sight has sifted them through the charming, but coldly critical meshes of her Gallic mind. In November—the Season! Everything happening. Every- body there to see it happening, to make it happen, to report on it the day before it happens. Two hectic months of this. Then January. And the Céte d’Azur blooming and glowing and sighing, sapphire against golden sunset cliffs, from Cannes to the Italian border. It is heaven for those who can accomplish it—a terribly mondaine sort of heaven, of course. And one can accomplish it, for the steamship companies stand, suave and smiling, with their reduced fares ready. And the Condé Nast Travel Bureau—in New York, London, and Paris—stands ready with advice. You, madame, are required merely to stand prepared to be advised, to sail, to buy. Headquarters in Boston But a few minutes’ taxi ride from the North and South Terminals. The Vendome is the Boston headquarters for many of the guests of the Abbott Hotels in New Hampshire, South Carolina and Florida. Here you will enjoy ‘‘Service with a Smile.” FRANK H. ABBOTT & SON under the direction of Karl P. Abbott Commonwealth Ave. at Dartmouth St. > © s&s FF © HOTEL ASTOR NEW YORK HOTEL ST. JAMES 109-113 West 45th St., New York City An hotel of quiet dignity, having ths atmos- home. Much favored by women traveling without escort. 3 minutes’ walk to 40 shops. Rates and booklet on application. W. JOHNSON QUINN HOTEL Blackstone 50 East 58th Street NEW YORK A Quiet Refined Family Hotel in Fashionable Plaza District ONE or MORE ROOMS en Suite Handsomely Furnished Rates Reasonable RESTAURANT Cuisine and Service of Supreme Excellence af ROYAL MONCEAU HOTEL 35, 37, 39, Avenue Hoche (Champs-Elysées) 250 Rooms S 250 Bath-Rooms LAFAYETTE HOTEL European Plan—Service, Comfort James Cunningham Company, Proprietor EEE THe PLAzA Tue CopLey-PLAZA The leading hotels of New York and Boston Page THE TRAVEL MAN! HOW many New York hotels have you staid in? ... Then how do you know whether you’ve found the one you’d like best? Maybe it’s lurking right around the corner from the last you tried and didn’t like—but unless you were run over and carried into it, you wouldn’t know. ... Next time you plan a trip to New York, write the Travel Man first. Tell him what you’re going to do, how much you want to pay, and he’ll pre- scribe a hotel that will fit you like a French glove or an American CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 21 West 44th St., New York Times Square—Broadway, 44th & 45th Sts. | Midway between Fifth Avenue and Broadway | — phere and appointments of a well-conditioned 3 theatres and all best || _* = — TT rs vs A. A. A. PORTLAND, MAINE—— |

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IGUE September 5, 19ZS ——Es a FEB. 9¥ FROM NEW YORK rom the s. The juarters Abbott South you will ON _ Abbott # ls ee er puth St. > N utumn holidays in, , en vee |] TRAVEL SYSTEM V ’ all MES|a | | And next winees—why not When the children are in school, city |i oa i? "See ho the = why not take your holiday this fall? Lscaieey | f of travel? See how muc n i eae ake ageing | _ this cruise crowds into two gorgeous vacation in the Paradise — is | oveorges cpt ips a. of the Pacific, in the months be- a snine: ot on easure: . alt best |p But also fisse-hesd peieatie- peenemewrand Christman! 2. 9 : ; : u F ance with the entire Medi- Strange as the outrigger canoes 4 terranean Country....You os rt shake the last snow from your feet on Feb. 9. In a few days, the balminess of Madeira. Then, the Medi- terranean. You see the places every traveller sees, —Cadiz, Algiers, Naples, Constantinople. You dis- cover the places most travel- ne The Coast of Heaven? FLORIDA! that race like long-legged waterflies at Waikiki, Hawaii is a territory of the United States with modern con- veniences at moderate prices. Long autumn days, sunny yet cool, to enjoy golf, polo, motoring, tennis, county fairs, swimming lers miss, —Lisbon, Beyrout, meets, surfing, inter-island cruis- tel F : - Sis Vente, ead re There’s not a commonplace mile on the peninsula. It’s modern ing, deep-sea fishing. Tropic fruits, weeks in eo as next minute, and American as the newest dance-step. . . . fragrant flowers and Hawaiian mu- Be nese, caunikabibes Palm Beach, the diamond hub of a platinum universe—brilliant sic. Hawaii National Park’s volcanic a eB ge sence hangs tat past belief, vital as a newspaper, young as life. wonderland is especially attractive | sone tag by Conuiilien: Miami—the climate of the Garden of Allah, the links of one’s ae. ohewhe Pacific’s iy eng . dreams—where fortunes are made in an afternoon; where boats Enjoy it longer ' rencag ea onset leave for Nassau, by water or by air; where this winter the S. S. Plan tostay longer than the one or OTEL | | at Duthie. had ek de. H. F. Alexander, pride of the Pacific Coast, will sail with eager Soieisaniillid Ae = snndetacat s-Elysées) | | lightful home, the Empress cargoes. Daytona, and the million-dollar highway, and the cities iin tle Maines 6 whe t-Reews |i pd genes agent hes the speedway at low tide! Ormond, Seabreeze, Hollywood, Fort B 4 iy ; littl ‘ mupetosmndl | po Ah omg beh ont Lauderdale, by an ocean blue as heaven with foam for clouds! ut the latter, costing as litt - jE—— Prince of Wales....In this There's Cort Gitd se oe ae — $300 or $400 for all expense in- TEL itinerary is the promise. In ie ee en ee eee cluding first-class travel and ac- Agel | Canadian Pacific manage- ov ernight out of the fruit groves for all the world like a djinn . commodation ashore, will give you prietor | | ment will be the fulfillment. city. And Boca Raton, whose phone book reads like the social a einai ints tne - bs aap enpromnsernaget register, where Addison Mizner acts an architect-Alladin. Y 4 re : please reserve rt a ; For the soul with a different tempo, St. Augustine is old-world, o sine mcrae cock eee Helpful Literature appealing, shady, unspoiled. And at the other end of the magic repeen g a Son ae S ZA Compiled by cruise experts. carpet Key West is mother of pearl, and rose coral, and sapphire ee ne ee ee “a ; a sea, And Long Key is where the authentic tarpon jumps. attle, Vancouver or Victoria, B. C. ©) ent. New York, 344 Madison : ; You'll enjoy the 5 or 6 days voy- n = Ave., Chicago, 71 E. Jackson Around on the carpet’s other hem is the West Coast, where St. s6 Eicnalal sanilen Venu é Blvd. Other principal cities. Petersburg, Sarasota, Tampa, Clearwater, Boca Grand look gone lagen naar omneaagge tae A : een ene re Ample modern hotels on 4 larger islands. If you wish descriptive, illustrat- ed brochure— out across the sunsets toward Mexico. There’s a new railway, just opened last season, that leads over from Palm Beach, or the best of train connections by way of Jacksonville—unless, of course, you’re truly modern, and take the new line down by air! Stay at home? Why? Yow’ll never catch : ‘A, a tarpon or a sunburn at home this Il winter. But arrangements, reservations y 7 unless nto it, —yowll have to make them now. | New “Ask the Travel Man—He Knows!” first. », how 1 pre- 1 like eprican tamp, REAU k = al 2 | HAWAII TOURIST BUREAU THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 21 West 44th Street, New York City 2, rue Edouard VII, Paris Aldwych House, Aldwych, W. C. 2, London, England 218 MONADNOCK BLDG., SAN FRANCISCO 347 FORT ST., HONOLULU, HAWAII, U. 8. A.

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60 VOGUE Lollins &e — a fine pure silk stocking that has eliminated Aosiery /uck’ Sep

You have heard women say: “I’ve had pretty good Whether you roll them or\clasp them you find that luck with such-and-such a stocking.” Or—‘“I don’t Rollins Runstop has set a higher standard of value. have much luck with so-and-so’s stockings.” Rollins is never sold by house-to-house canvassers. The better merchants have your size in the proper Luck, in hosiery selection, is no longer a factor with shade and tints for Fall. smart women who demand Rollins Runstop. Regard it as a full-fashioned silk stocking . .. ROLLINS HOSIERY MILLS Rollins Runstop is pure silk—with a charm of style, Des ——- lows Py Py actories a uniformity of correct texture and a beauty of color Des Moines and Boone, Iowa. and sheen that makes the price an agreeable surprise. it. G 1] 13 Rollins Runstop (patented)is a red C is, first, an excellent stoc ing. stripe knit into the stocking at the point In addition the patented Runstop feature. . . Long 5 inane “< cc ho vd wear; freedom from embarrassment; no garterruncan all garter runs. There is no other stock- : : : ing with arunstop always at the go below the red stripe at the knee . «+ SCIENCE IN jae and in an identifying color. Look manufacture has eliminated “hosiery luck.” for Rollins Runstop girl om the box top!

———— c E f a Com tory

a 5 3 = 2 | 61 East Our pleas: special ser Write

THE Ww For c Close | High Mode!

M. E. ¢

mA moderr 150 W. 94 HE W

i A Mother } garten up ee _— HE CHI N A home envi: ae tion— attention Sports, sat

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GUE X a NLA —_ SS — VOQUEY /TIGDL LIME CTORY 61 NEW YORK & VICINITY The Gardner School FOR GIRLS i! East 5ist Street New York City A thorough school with delightful home life. Fire- proof building. College preparatory, academic, secretarial and_ elective courses. Music. Riding, swimming, tennis. 69th A year. Catalogue on request Miss Eltinge Miss Masland } Principals Sroville School For Girls Beautifully situated at 1006 Fifth Avenue, New York, facing Central - Park, and the Museum of Art. Complete Academic, College-Prepara- tory and Advanced Elective Courses. Miss Rosa B. Chisman, Principal 72 FINCH SCH®2L A Boarding and Day School for Girls, emphasizing post-graduate work 61 East 77th Street, New York City Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very spevial service if a last-minute enrollment is desired. Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. CO-EDUCATIONAL Qocooencom mina, it ACC THE CHILDREN’S HOUSE Winter Boarding School For children 4-12. Large estate. Close supervision. Resident doctor. Highest references required. Moderate tuition. M. E. Orem, M. E. Nyack 1516 Nyack, New York “EDGEWOOD, A unique boarding and day school for boys and girls from kindergarten to preparation for college examinations. Each child is a special study, and is developed rather than instructed. Twenty acres in the most attractive part of Greenwich offers an unusual opportunity for sports and outdoor life. Box 500. Greenwich, Conn, tired of her you could yell? cordon-bleu cook? 21 West 44th Street HOW MANY PEOPLE are you ? RE you just one person? The one all your friends know? The one you’ve lived with all your life until you’re so Or is there another person in you that nobody else has ever seen—a person you hardly know yourself—a person who could sing, or dance, or act, or paint, or manage a business, or even be a Does that other person just need a bit of professional training and a release from narrow circumstances to make your life quite different and much more amusing? .. . You need a winter in New York! You need us to tell you about the special schools that will develop your talent, whatever it may be. If you’re good enough to be a professional, it may be your start on the road to fame. If not, you’ll at least see new things, make new friends, stretch yourself mentally, be a broader, happier, more amusing person. Ask us about special schools im your field today. There’s no charge. I?’s one of our free services to the readers of Vogue, Vanity Fair, House & Garden THE CONDE NAST EDUCATIONAL BUREAU New York City eee NEW YORK & VICINITY—Girls | NEW YORK & VICINITY—Girls The ELY SCHOOL for Girks GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT An unusual school in the beautiful country of Greenwich, Connecticut. Junior and Upper Schools. College Preparatory and Post Graduate Courses. The Ely School offers superior advantages in Music, Art, and Drama. Practical courses in Household Arts and Secretarial Training. Riding and outdoor sports. BIRCH WATHEN SCHOOL New York City A modern day school for boys and girls 150 W. 94th St. 147-149 W. 93rd St. HE WASHINGTON SCHOOL of New York 17 East 60th Street _A-co-educational day school information address The Secretary ISTONEHENGE } A Mother School for younger children, Kinder- Sarten up to fifth grade. Open all the year. | Box 319, Brewster, N. Y. or | Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a vei special service if a last-minute enrollment is desir Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. SEMPLE SCH®L College Preparatory. Post Graduate. Languages, Art, Music and Dramatic Art. Outdoor Recreation. Mrs. T. Darrington Semple, Principal 241-242 Central Park West. Box V. New York City SOUTHFIELD POINT HALL For girls. On Long Island Sound. Intermediate, College Preparatory, Secretarial and General Courses. Music, Horseback riding. - Outdoor life a special feature. Catalog. Jessie Callam Gray, B.A., Principal, 8 Davenport Drive, Stamford, Conn. STUDENT RESIDENCES—Boys TWO BOYS Oppertunity for two boys, 12-15 years, to enjoy musical advantages of New York in East Seventieth Street home of educator and musician associated with exclusive boys’ school two doors away, which boys will attend. Educational and cultural values of music sanely built into lives of boys. Regular supervised out-door play. Week-end camping, Address until October First, Robert W. Claiborne, 7 East 87 Street, New York, N. Y. ee STUDENT RESIDENCES— Boys & Girls ’ > , Miss Belden’s Residence An ideal home for girls studying in , New York. Large rooms, some with private bath. Chaperonage elective. 321 West 80th Street at Riverside Drive 5 4004 el. Susquehann cf 9 Miss Ferguson’s Residence A home of exclusive patronage for girl students at- Toe school, college or special courses in New or! 309-311 West 82nd Stree Tel. Susquehanna 5343 New York City TEASDALE RESIDENCE 326 West 80th St. At Riverside Drive Tel. Susquehanna 7858 For Girl Students and Young Women who come to New York to pursue courses of study and for a social season. Chaperonage Booklet MISS M. HOURIGAN’S SCHOOL Degrees fom Sorat ¢ Popmavataries of Music, French, Arts. Opportunity for special study. 125 E. 80th Psi aaa Supervision Y. City. Phone Rhinelander 0493 firs. Boswell’s “A Home Away From Home”’ for girls studying in New Y French ork Registrations now for 1925- 26. Tenth year. Elective chaperonage, Languages, Catalogue. Telephone Susquehanna 7653 Address Mrs. Henry Harrison Boswell, 344-346 W. 84th St next Riverside Drive nai} ef] : ; If 3 a ' 4 EE Pirs. Hneden’s Residence 6 West 87th Street (Central Park) A select and charming home for girl students, centrally located; open all year. Registration now tor 1925-26, Ninth year. Booklet. Phone Schuyler 4032. PARE AVENUE RESIDENCE New York City Fort limited number of Girl Students taking spe- cial courses, Chaperonage elective. Home care. Information given upon application to Miss Laura F. Sickels, 1100 Park Ave., New York City Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very special service if a last-minute enrollment is desired, Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. French Home Sehooi Residence for girls pursuing special studies in New York. Exceptional opportunities for French. ISS MACINTYRE or MLLE. TALGUEN 320 W. 107th St., Riverside Drive, New York City HE CHILDREN’S COUNTRY SCHOOL A Nyack-on-Hudson, N. Y. A home environment for a selected group. Thorough Pnstruction—kindergarten thru eighth grade. Special Benton to health thru right living. GLEN EDEN §* Hish-sehest cirts or Graduates Suburban to New York City, 50 minutes from Fifth Avenue. Small classes; athletics; social culture, Ex- quisite equipment, For catalogue and views address Summer School. Open all year. Address, The Secretary Director of Glen Eden Stamford, Conn. Miss Hagedorn’s Residence A delightful home for children attending any school. Resident governess. Girls 5-14 years. Boys 5-9 years, Also summer camp at Bellport, Long Island. Telephone; Audubon 1600 604 Riverside Drive New York City x Farmer's, Drivé., New. Yor For young ladies. Delightfu) home atmos- phere. View overlooking Hudson. Rooms with bath adjoining. Chaperonage elective. Riverside 3487 Alice Stone Farmer

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62 VOGUE FE seta YORK & VICINITY—Gi rls NEW YORK & VICINITY—Girls NEW YORK & VICINITY—Girls EASTERN ATLANTIC—Girls coven. - ARYMOUNT Hudson, N. Y. Courses—Four Years College, Two-Year Finishing, Academic, ‘Two-Year Pre-Academic, Domestic Science, Secretarial, Gymnasium, Stadium, Swimming-pool, Riding, Music, Art, ete, Paris Branch. For catalogue apply to Reverend Mother, Gee Ghe Castle l Miss Mason's School for Girls Box 731 Tarrytown-on-Hudson, New York Kent Place School for Girls SUMMIT, NEW JERSEY An Endowed School—Thirtieth Year Cn the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the Hills of New Jersey twenty miles from New York. COLL EGS. faa ae* ont DEMIC : Athletics ‘Miss HARRIET ‘LARNED HUNT Principal SCHOOL DWIGHT Foe'Giets College fpepevetion Special Finishing Courses. Athletics, Gymnasium, Tennis, Riding. Write for illustrated booklets. Catalog on ye Miss E. S. Creighton, Principal, Engloweed, N. J Mu Miss Brearp’s ScHOOL COUNTRY SCHOOL NEAR NEW YORK ORANGE, NEW JERSEY H IL - SI D E Norwalk, Conn. For Girls. 45 miles from New York. Prepara- tion for college entrance examinations, General Courses. Organized athletics. MargaretR.Brendlinger,A.B. (Vassar) Vida Hunt Francis, A. B. (Smith) bp tins aes S$rhool of Saint #4 ary A school for girls, 22 miles from New York. College pre- paratory and general courses. Catalog on request, A MIRIAM A. BYTEL Principal Box V, Ga rden City Long Isl and, New York | MRS. DOW College preparation. BRIARCLIFF A SCHOOL OF LOYAL TRADITIONS WITH MODERN SPIRIT General Academic, Home Efficiency and Post Graduate courses. Junior School. Music, Art, New York advantages New Model Swimming Pool Jan Sickesz, Director of Music Department Charles W. Hawthorne, N. A., , For Illustrated Circular, apply to MRS. EDITH COOPER HARTMAN, B. §&., ’S SCHOOL Director of Art Department Principal, Briarcliff Manor, New York HIGHLAND HALL College Preparatory—General Courses Two years advanced work Modern Educational Standards. Spacious well-equipped build- ings. Unusual program of out- door life and sports. Located in beautiful section of the Alleghenies in small resi- dential town easily accessible by train, motor and trolley. Hollidaysburg, Pa. ELLEN C. KEATES, A.B., Principal Mrs. Caskin’s School For girls. A school of select patronage in beau- tiful college town with fine edicational .atmos- phere. Occupies famous T. DeWitt Cuyler estate, fourteen acres, eight miles from Philadelphia. College preparatory with academic and voca- tional courses. Diplomas granted. Special ad- vantages in music, Thuel Burnham, director. Large outdoor and recreational activities. Address MRS. LANGDON CASKIN, Founder and Prineipal Box 103 Haverford, Pa. SCHOOLS ABROAD—Boys & Girls | NEW ENGLAND—Girls EUROPEAN TRAVEL && GIRLS between ages of 17 and 21, combined with study of History of Art, Literature, History, French. October 31st to June. Italy, Austria, Hun- gary, Switzerland, France, Belgium, Holland, England. Winter holiday St. Moritz and Nice. Motor trips—Amalfi Drive, Italian Hill Towns, Provence, French Chateaux, Southwestern En- gland. School limited to 12 girls. References, Catalog on request. Miss Helen L. Stet The Churchill, 1255 North State St., Chicago MISS BARRY’S FOREIGN SCHOOL FLORENCE ITALY For young ladies who wish to spend a year of study abroad in home surroundings. Courses in Italian, French, History, Art, Music. Recreational work in Fencing, Horseback Riding, Dancing. Vacation trips to Rome, Perugia, Siena. Constant chaperonage ineluding voyage to and from Europe. Address Secretary, Box 142, Cambridge, Mass. The Fontaine School fRinée FRANCE Study and travel. Cultural, Finishing and College Prep, courses. Snorts. Resident and Day Stu- dents. Director, Miss Marie Louise Fontaine, Care of Women’s City Club, 22 Park Ave., N. ¥. City; or Villa Montmorency, Cannes, A. M., France. LE LIERRE (Ne the Bois de Boulogne) High-class finishing for girls. Complete course in French. Art, Sight- seeing. Large garden. Tennis court. Central heating. Madame BERNT LIF 39 _, du Chateau—9 Av. Victor Huge . 154—BOULOGNE' s/Seine NEW YORK STATE—Girls NEW ENGLAND—Girls The Hedges 6 Pine Street, Norton, Mass. The Junior School of House in the Pines. 30 For girls under fourteen. A large modern home. Sun parlors for class rooms. Play fields. Horseback riding. Swim- ming. A wholesome, simple life of study and play that makes the child quick to feel, eager to know, able to do. MISS GERTRUDE E. CORNISH, Principal miles from Boston. BRADFORD ACADEMY Bradford, Mass. Junior College. Three years’ College Pre- i! paratory and Special Courses. 122nd year. NQ SCHOOL FOR GIRLS N Four Year Preparatory Course for Smith College. One year intensive course for high school graduates. Other courses to fit special needs. MRS. V. N. LUCIA, Secretary, Northampton, Mass. Th e KNO School Jor Girls College Preparatory, Advanced Academic Courses Music, Art, Horseback Riding, Winter Sports. Mrs. Russell Houghton, Box V, Cooperstown, N. Y. SCHOOLS ABROAD—Boys & Girls CHATEAU NEUVIC SCHOOL In France Thorough preparation for American colleges and schools under American masters. Feudal Chateau on large estate transformed to modern school. Canoe- ing, swimming, tennis, riding, etc. Historic cruises in 40 ft. cabin yacht. Limited enrolment. Summer camp during July and August Capt. P. H. Chadbourn, Director, Neuvic sur I’Isle. Dordogne, France, or 17 Gramercy Park, New York. THE FRASCATI SCHOOL A School near Rome for American Boys ideal Situation in the Alban Hills Highest college board standards, Interviews in New York or Philadelphia by appointment. Address: H. N. Bowman, 42 W. End Ave., N., Lancaster, Pa. Miss Hall’s School Pittsfield, Massachusetts GRAY GABLES A Tutoring School for Girls, offering a one-year intensive course preparing for all colleges. Students hold a remarkable record in passing college exami- nations. Horseback ane. Athletic field. Address MIRIAM TITCOMB, Principal Box B, 45 Cedar yao Worcester, Mass. Kendall Hall sor ciris ACCREDITED. Intensive College Preparatory. Household Management & Decoration. 50 min. from Boston. Riding, tennis, skiing, skating. CATALOG. Mr. and Mrs. C. P. Kendall, Box 129, Prides, Mass. HOWARD SEMINARY 43d year, A famous old New England country school for girls, Accredited. Preparation for all colleges. Mr, and Mrs. George W. Emerson, Principals. 70 Howard Street, West Bridgewater, Massachusetts. Hill-crest location overlooking the beautiful New England village of Auburndale—ten miles from Boston. 30-acre campus, 15 buildings. A complete course on the care and management of the home and family prepares for the WOODLAND PARK The Jun or Scnool for Girls Guy M. Winslow, Ph. D., Principal ——LASELL SEMINAR Y— | position of home executive. Unusual training in music. Secretarial, Art, Teacher Training and College Preparatory Courses. Indoor and outdoor athletics. Gymnasium and swimming pool. Horseback riding a feature, Booklets on application 126 Wood!and Road. Auburndale, Massachusetts THE MACDUFFIE SCHOOL Dr. and Mrs. John MacDuffie COLLEGE de MONTMORENCY—PARIS High-class finishing school of study and travels for | French and foreign girls. Highest references. Home life—Luxurious private mansion opposite the “‘Bois de Boulogne’’. ME. PERRIER—University graduate 19 Boulevard Montmorency Paris—iGeme ROGERS HALL SPRINGFIELD,MASSACHUSETTS SCHOOL for GIRLS College Preparatory and Graduate Courses lustrated Miss Olive Sewall Parsons, Lowell. Massachusetts “LE GUI’’ (the Mistletoe) A finishing school for girls from 16 to 19 years References are required. French, Art, Riding, ete. High- est educational and social references. Moderncomfort. Comtesse P. de Broin, Principal 38 rue de I’Yvette, Paris, (6eme CHOATE SCHOOL A country school in a model town, For girls from u-18 years of age. College Preparatory and Gencral Courses. One year Travel Course. Outdoor life. Augusta Choate, Vassar, Principal 1600 Beaccn Strect, Brookline, Massachusetts L’ERMITAGE 7 bis rue de l’Ermitage, Versailles, S.et.0. Twenty minutes from Paris. Offers all advantages of Paris with country life. French Studies—Music —Art—Travel, Until Sept. 30th refer Mile. Latapie, Miles. Latapie’s School for Girls EASTERN ATLANTIC _ARDEN SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Lakewood, New Jersey College preparatory and general course. Lower school Anne Evelyn Boardman, A.M., Principal Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very special service if a last-minute enrollment is desired. Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. ‘ 9q. Al MISS MILLER’S SCHOOL A small, select school with an atmosphere of home life. Situated in the fine residential section of Baltimore. Limitedtofiftygirls. Music, Art, College preparation, Outdoor sports. Catalog. — M. MILLER, 838 Par’ Ave.. | altimore, Md PINE MANOR A school for home efficiency. Two-year course for graduates of secondary schools. Higher cultural studies with emphasis on subjects pertaining to home management. Catalog Guaranty Trust Co., 524 Fifth Ave., New York City. GARRISON, FOREST Modern, well-equipped. In the beautiful Green Spring Valley near Baltimore. Preparatory, General Finishing, Intermediate, Music, Art. Riding. Miss Helen Temple Cooke, oa Hall, Wellesley, Mass. MISS MARY M. LIVINGSTON, Box V, Garrison, Md. SCHOOL OF THE HOLY CHILD JESUS Scheol for Girls Sharon Hill, Pa. Elementary, Middle, College Preparatory Resident and Day Pupils Equipment unsurpassed. Trained teachers. Excellent athletics—riding, tennis, basket-ball, ice-skating, hockey team undefeated. —— Schools Paris Switzerland nidndenet “Mother Superior Sept For ¢ Ward-Bel! training al aud equi Southern course of college. F Belmont | SULLIN For Girls, E Music, Sect buildings; é Pool, Horset LUG of: WV School of the Holy Child Summit, N, J. College Preparatory and Elemen- Colleges at Rosemont, Pa., and OAK KNOLL Blackburn Road School for Girls. tary Departments. Oxford, England. Finishing Schools: Paris Rome Fribourg us Mary Gon School ¢ ¢ College preparatory, general courses. Wildeliff, the graduate school. Seven Gables, girls 6-12. Catalogs. Mr. and Mrs. M. Cfist, Prins., Box 1509, Swarthmore, Pa. BISHOPTIIORPE For Girls In Mts. near New York. Graduates enter all certificate colleges without exams. ctical courses; Finishing. H. 8. & Jr, College. New Gym and pool. CATALOG. C. V. Wyant, Bethlehem, Pa. OGONTZ SCHOOL for Girls On the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Est. 1850. Rydal, Junior Department. Send for catalog. Miss Abby. pawtes, Prin., Ogontz School, Montgomery Co., Pa. f[isbland Manor Non-Sectarian Country School for Girls. All eae: and Courses, Junior College and Music. Eugene H. Lehman, Director Tarrytown-on- Hudson New York Box 108 BEAVER COLLEGE omen Continuing the work of Beechwood, General and Junior College courses with Diploma and Degree. Splendid equipment. Catalog. Address Registrar, Jenkintown, Pa. f ~fARCUM~ Seat Suburban to Philadelphia. Thorough College Preparation, Music, and Art. All Sports—Riding. For Catalog address: The Secretary, Box V, Bryn Mawr, Pa. SOUTHERN—Girls FAIRMONT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 26th Year. Preparatory courses and eight gee courses for which pa eel apery = : ae ae y t vantages 0 ationa a granted. Educa mas ey eee For catalog, 4@ $8 2108 S Street Washington, D. C. The Misses Stone’s School For a limited number of girls. Advanced cours? with History of Art and French, Secretarial Course, Art, Music. Preparation for Travel. Miss Isabelle Stone, Ph.D. and Harriet Stone, M.S., 1700 Rhode Island Ave., N. W., Washingten, D. C. Chevy Chase Schoo! For girls, Last years of High School; two-year advanced course. Emphasis on music, art, dram. a af life; advantages of the national capita!. E. FARRINGTON, Ph.D., BoxV, Washington, D.C. 9 School St. Margaret’s scr Giris A Real School in the Nation’s Capital Non-sectarian. Preparation for college. Musi» Art, Business and Domestic Science. A school for serious work. Catalog V. Mrs. F. A. on sag gr C. California St. and Connecticut Ave., Wash BRENAU Select pat Ridge Mts, | special adv: science, phys back riding. Address VIRG Yor Girls. 1 years Prepar Courses. Mu Journalism, Golf, Tennis. Martha for girls. City and High Sek hold Science, sion. Addres WAR Near Washi College preps versation pre to study and Mile. Lea M Natior Tor girls. § Junior college Uxpressicn, Se Catalog. Box —_—_ CEN 2 ———— SFERR\ first rank, ad jates. Suburb gan. Gymnas Mi | LINDE] 50 minutes f Young Women ics, Business, Roemer NU) Schoo er Miss ELI ollege Prepar ion of Easter Horseback ridi Miss Caroline Our pleasant Special servic desired. Write S TEELA For Girls “Th r.andMrs.C.A

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September 15, 1925 63 SOUTHERN—Girls | SOUTHERN—Girls NEW YORK & VICINITY—Boys NEW ENGLAND—Boys MUSIC: KING~SMITH &é800? of Washington and Paris DANCING: DRAMATIC ART: LANGUAGES LITERATURE: FINE AND APPLIED ARTS A Residential School for Young Women offering unique and unexcelled opportunities for cultural or professional study and personality development, in an atmosphere that is both artistic and stimulating. Any art, academic or college work arranged that student desires. All subjects elective. tre STORM _ KING Schoo formerly The STONE SCHOOL Established 1667 A Progressive College Preparatory School. 50 Miles from New York. Attractive Outdoor Life. ( « alc: ALVAN E. DUERR, Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York De Motte School An hour from New York City. Wholesome school life. Thorough training. Upper and Lower School. New school building and gymnasium, All year round sports. Laurence Washburn De Motte, Norwalk, Connecticut WESTMINSTER SCHOOL Simsbury, Conn. Raymond Richards MacOrmond, Headmaster 4, De Witt Clinton 5c, A Boarding and Day School Prepares for College and Technical School JOHN B. HEBBERD, Cotton St., NEWTON, MAss. St. Johns School OSSINING-ON-HUDSON, N.Y The Rectory School Episcopal school for boys, 6 to 13. Each boy receives - Tuition according to | pr Boys for College and Business, Military | special atuention i ‘‘How to Study.’’ Supervi Racal amount of work taken. Unusual social advantages of Washington; poke wo va ‘Athletics. Separate school for boys | athletics; home care, Apply Rev. Frank H. Taam week of opera in New York; preparation for foreign travel. undvr 13. William Addison Ranney, A.M., Prin. | Pomfret, Conn. beau- Mr. anp Mrs. Aucust KincSmirx, Directors|M A N L I U_S — Catalog Saint John’s School = ©*!!ege Preparatory. state, Military. iphia. 1751 New Hampshire Avenue, Washington, D.C, Thoroughly equipped. Business course. Well ordered voca- athletics. Junior none. cae. Gee. Wm. Verbeck, sound proeet wig y Sete Set 1 ad- 2 President, Box 139, Manlius, N. Y. A. V. Sheriff. ector. R D B E L M O N T PACIFIC COAST—Girls A DAY SCHOOL - V. Sheriff, Headmaster, Cheshire, Conn. i 3h ‘a Girls and Young Women BERKELEY-IRVING cofon BOYS N | ] ee ary to College be ; Ward-Belmont combines highest academtc CUM 46th een tae tote 44 fimall classes. ‘Thor- en haln iers i, Pa. training and advantages of extensive grounds NOCK SCHOOL ough instruetion. Prepares for college or business. Rite h quipment with that much-sought-for An old school with beautiful new buildings. Fall || Swimming pool; gymnasium; playground. Quting ountry School for Boys and equip) 4 - M - fi t. Six-year > lasses. Catalogue. 311 West 83rd St., N. Y¥. C. ilitary Regularity. Upper and Lower Schools. ; Southern culture and refinement. term opens September 29th. School of Expres c . & Thomas Chalmers, 441 Waltham St., W. Newt course of study embracing two years of pay Cae Suse = = a — pes ars, aitham St., W. Newton, Mass, erpretation, Story-telling; Dramatics; st eee || Soe eee "=|IREDTON SCH@L| M111, FORD fie ° unior School. rite for Catalog EK. Nashville, Tenn. Me@is the reguirements Of the youns boy MIL ORD er ry Belmont Heights, Box 10, ; HELEN A. BROOKS, A.M., Director er bee 6 to 16. Rusiteh University Disetets. | ', messed of Remashuble Suess in Preperation ter rs. . Bristol, Virginia 5353 West Third Street, Los Angeles rete Oe Sot ee 2 leading Universities. Complete Recreational Pro- -ball LLINS COLLEGE Bristol, Virgin : gram. 9 miles from New Haven. Write for catalog. P High School and Junior College Courses wn TI ese BB S. B. ROSENBAUM, Box 104, Milford, Conn. For Girls. Hig ool an 3e8. is 5 . , Music, Secretarial, Domestic Science, etc. New WESTLAKE SCHOOL for GIRLS d builuings; every —— connecting Seth. SOT An ideal school in an ideal location. Junior College: LAWRENCE-SMITH Pool, Bersmect i a R. -_ ‘ Tre, Bot B. College Preparatory: separate school for younger girls. School for Boys Primary to College EASTERN ATLANTIC—Boys LUG of: W. E. . Ph.D., oe on Se we Economics. Swimming || Opens October 5th, 1925 in new nn sone. Fr . y e TOF log BD. “7 E New York City Emphasis on preparation ait (DRENAU COLLEGE CONSERVATORY | 833's'Westhncd Ave., Los Angeles. Cal. | | 106-170 East 70m St PEDDIE 2 ees |g Select patronage 30 states: location foothills Biue Examinations. Boys from Elem Ridge Mts. North of Atlanta, Standard A.B. course: $0 states. Graduates in 58 4 ?_" special advantages music, oratory, art, domestic colleges. 15 modern buildings. 60 acres. Athletics re science, physical culture. Swimming, boating, horse- for every boy. Six Forms including two grammar ’ribourg back riding. | Catalog 8d lllastr a ipecnilte, Ga. grades, 60th year. Catalog. Box9V, Hightstown, N. J. s ’ . 7 . Last Minute BORDENTOWN NewaRy Thorough preparation for college or business. VIRGINIA COLLEGE RE ISTR TIONS bMickent tisce. oo re Se oe a . Valley of Virginia, Four G A tion. oys taught how to study. upervise fasts - eat Fecperatees, ‘lective ‘and. full Junior College athletics, 4Ist year. Catalogue. Col. T. D. Landon, Prins., Courses. Music, Art, Expression, Home Economics, Principal and Commandant, Drawer C-13, Borden- Journalism, Secretarial and Library work, Riding, town-on-the-Delaware, N. J. Golt, Tennis. Box V, Roanoke, Va. Parents, of course, are supposed to spend deep and long Th UN S CH O O Girls ° thought on the school to which they send their children. eH sates 1 Martha Washington Seminary T without nishing. for girls, City and country advantages. Junior Collegiate But, as a matter of fact, Vogue knows that a hot September OF PR INCE O nd pool. and High School forms, College Prenaratorv. House- 3 : witgt Thorough and Successful College Preparation em, Pa hold Science. Secretarial Science, Music, Art, Expres- often sees more than one lively family still frolicking at the 103 Stockton Street, Princeton, New Jersey Sacdive i A »D.C. ° . ] “irl Se are eee seme mountain or shore, putting off all thoughts of school with BLAIR A Catinae Precerstery 31f lS Country ch f ] b d Founded 1848. Imposing buildings fully equipped, eeriul abdDandon. ‘Thorough instruction. Lower School for younger boys. t. Send Ww ARR E NT ON ener. Then there’s a last-minut h from th late home-comers Endowed. Write ert D ; sittin } College preparatory, general courses. French con- en eres a last-minute rus m these are e 5) Box K. Titel. N.S enon, ea ee a quick enrollment, and son and daughter hastily buckle down ra ——— BMile. Lea M. Bouligny, Box 18, Warrenton, Va. to work almost before the cinders from the train-trip are FREEHOLD ii SCHOOL, ° ° for boys 7 to 15. M ed military training—in- N 4 Pa emi out of their hair. culeates obedienee, orderliness, self reliance. The OF ational tk Si mary = = — touch. ris. “4 /rite for Catalog. ress Muste, [Tor eirls. Suburbs of Washington, D. C. 2-year Hard to decide so quickly? Not at all! Vogue helps them. Major Chas. M. Duncan, Box 99, Freehold, N. 4. Box 108 Sxpression, Secretarial. College Preparatory. Riding. E Sentember V ss besiesed ‘with oo St. Luke’s School _Prevares Bos for Catalog. Box 173, Forest Glen, Maryland. very ep ember ogue 1S besiege with a rush o inquiries a u & c College or Business a about schools from such belated holiday-makers—or from SE ed neakn, hee aed og CENTRAL STATES—Girls those whose plans have unavoidably changed at the last minute nn tee Bee eee Le my —and Vogue is always quite ready for them, card files up to ee ne ae BFERRY HALL 4. "%: d dy information on hand 1 visit to the school Se ee ory school of the ate, ready information on hand, a personal visit to the schoo ae. ia first rank, advanced courses for high school grad- f h perior appointments; unex- ates. Suburban to Chicago on shore of Lake Michi- resh in 1ts Memory. celled fac 8 Raa cartel . ulty. Supervised athletics; s ng Am Ban, Gua, a 4 “eee. Catalog, F i pool; golf course. Heavy endowment permits Box 326. Lake Forest, I.” If you do not see the school you want mentioned in these +. meer -g Murray Peabody Brush, Yhorough ° ‘ 2 a wt -D., it, Md. Art, All , pages, write to Vogue. There is no obligation for our serv- Sous Soaiy OF baa idk Gaeale Ge eamen wale address : LIND ENWOOD COLLEGE ice, of course receive the personal attention of a woman trained wr, Pa. Founded 1827 ? 5 in — — who Re bom be oo 7 _ yes 50 minutes from St. Louis. Standard College for in the solution of your problem. rite The Con — ‘oung Women, 2 and 4 year courses, Home Boonom- Add: Nast Educational Bureau. : réss ics, Business, Music. Gymnasium, Pool. Catalog, Roemer, Pres., Box 425, St. Charles, Mo. CENTRAL STATES—Boys IRLS @& wD OR HALL THE CONDE NAST EDUCATIONAL BUREAU = ty Fai LAKE FOREST Capital, School for Girls. College Preparatory. Vogue Vanity F House & Garden 7-0 .¢ E HOO General Course. Music. Art. Fireproof. Non-Military College Preparatory Academy for Jake INIA ALLEN, Indi i W Boys. Near Chicago. All Athletics. Endowed. Cata- ne tha Miss FREDO A p Hndisnapolis 21 est 44th Street New Yor k City og: 3. Ww. Richards, Box 150, Laks Forest, tI. bol FELMHURST 3 HORPE for BOYS d courss ) tsabells oe Froparatery and Greduate Courses. Direc- pt to 16. ACCREDITED ACADEMY.” on Zastern Teachers wi uropean training. “Character first.”” On Lake, near Chicag 0 Rhode Miicrseback riding. All Sports. Miss Isabel Cressler, SOUTHERN—Boys SOUTHERN—Boys Semi-military. Athletics, CATALOG of:— : Miss Caroline Sumner, Connersville, ind. Thorpe Academy, Box V, Lake Forest, DL : MILITARY AND 0 Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very STUYV ESAN Schgnt See R I V E R S D NORTHWESTERN eel 7 ys NAVAL ACADEMY O: desired, Write The Condé pty i i Cl I EK 70 mi. from Chieago. An endowed College Prepara- two-yee College Preparation. Small Classes : One of the nation’s distinguished military schools. | tory School and Junior College. Its distinctive ad- h aoe acne: ser gm bo ag Camp Country location; mountains, lake; largest gym in| vantages and methods interest discriminating rite for Illustrated Catalog South; golf. Cadets enter any time. Address | paren.s. ton, D.C. SUMMER CAMPS Edwin B. King, Headmaster, Warrenton, Va. Col. Sandy Beaver, Box V, Gainesville, Georgia. Col. R. P. Davidson, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wis. s TEELA-WOOKET CAMPS STAUNTON “igitany The SWAVELY «2% MILITARY ~— J For Girls ; Roxbury, Vermont ‘ACADEMY One hour from Washington. An enthusiastic, U LVE & A CAD E M + ool for ‘ ‘The Horseback Camps i One of the most distingished schools in America | working preparatory school which boys love and . - ‘The Camps without Extras’ preparing for Universities, Government Academies, | parents approve. Sound scholarshin. eharacter (9n Lake Maxinkuckee) | Co wm Ce Tilnstrated booklets Business. Superb discinlinary training $700. building. Strong on athletics. Splendid gymna- | Preparesfor anycollege. Smallelasses. Unsurpassed Ms J r.andMrs.C.A. Roys, !0BowdoinSt., Cambridge, Mass. Box V, (Kable Station) Staunton, Va. sium. Catalog, Address Box V, Manassas, Va. | equipment. Catalog. The Inquiry Bureau, Culver, Ind.

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64 VOGUE

SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS

SPECIAL SCHOOLS

SPECIAL SCHOOLS

Edith Coburn Noyes School Oral English Drama Character Education Analysis and Interpretation of Liter- ature, Voice, Diction. Costume and Scenic Design, Light- ing, Play Production, Modern Art Technique, Fully Equipped Little Theatre. Personal Culture, Individual Devel- opment and Balance, Psychology, Pedagogy, French (Yersin Method). Eighteenth year opens September 28. Edith Coburn Noyes, Principal Symphony Chambers, Boston

ALBERTI SCHOOL OF EXPRESSION and DRAMATIC ART Regular courses October to June. Connected with Stuart Walker’s companies and Young People’s Theatre, Inc. 1114 Carnegie Hall, New York

The Schuster-Martin School of the Drama (Accredited) Session. Dormitory. Our own Theatre. Helen Schuster-Martin, Director. The Little Playhouse, Kemper Lane Cincinnati, Ohio. Summer

& OPERA DRAMA MUSIC COLLEGE of DANCE ARTS SINGING and PHQTO-PLAY For Acting, Teaching, Developing poise and personality es- Gental for ney calling in life. Poaceae eand + ances while henening? N, y. “debuts

wN at

pectus write study desired us write s' sir rg 8 tary, 43 West 72nd St. N-Y., EXT. 22

LUCY FEAGIN STUDIOS OF DRAMATIC ART Acting in Drama and Opera Directing—Teaching—Public Speaking Thorough Training in Expression Developing Personality. Diction. French methods of Pantomime. Experienced direc- tors furnished for professional and Amateur Performances. Fall term begins sPecetor 5th 112-114 Carnegie Hall, N.Y, Circle 1766 Oe le ga RP AORN eT. T Individual Training STAGE PLATFORM

7 Emphasis on Speaking voice and Diction Studio, 152 West 57 Street, New York Telephone Circle 1350

American Academy of Dramatic Arts The leading institution for Dramatic and Expres- sional Training in America. New Fall class begins Oct. 26. Free catalog describes ali courses. Write: SECRETARY, 251-I. Carnegie Hall, New York, N. Y. SCHOOL OF LANGUAGES Cultured Native Teachers TRIAL LESSON Individual Instruction n $2.00 1264 Lexington Ave. Near East astth s St, "N. Y. Butterfield 6277 Established i6 years

Aprenda el Espajiol en| aia su casa rn to speak Spanish as if - ing in Spain. Records fit n~ OVW SIA STNTARISO WAWAY (GWA With Professional Placement Packard Theatre Institute THIS Institution is the only one of its kind in America actually placing thousands of actors in the companies of David Belasco, Lee Shubert, Henry Miller, Charles Froh- man, Arthur Hopkins, A. H. Woods and other prominent contract for engagements this season and their careers quickly developed through the channels of the PACKARD THEATRICAL EXCHANGE ING ; SEAS | Henry Gaines Hawn, Dean. Students graduating with honors are put under into professional prominence organized 1892 and now the largest pro- fessional placement organization in the world. Interview by appointment only CHISMORE PACKARD, President. Packard Theatrical Exchange. Earl Carroll Theatre, 755 7th Ave., N.

PSE |. KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL SECRETARIAL & EXECUTIVE Training for educated women One-year course includes technical, economic and broad business training, preparing for superior positions.

BOSTON 90 Marlboro Street NEW YORK 66 Pash tne Two-year course including six college subjects for students not desiring col- lege, but wishing a cul- tural as well as business education. Seven months’ course— executive training for college women and women with business experience. PROVIDENCE 155 Angell Street Residence School in Boston

Register Now For BALLARD Si, “cee oe 610 Lex. Ave. at 53rd St. Central Branch Y. W. C. A.

Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very special service if a last-minute enrollment is desired. Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. Che NEW YORK SCHOOL, of’ INTERIOR DECORATION 441 MADISON AVE-NEW YORK SHERRILL WHITON, Director PRACTICAL TRAINING COURSE Fall Course Starts October 2 Send for Catalog 43 HOME STUDY COURSES Start any time—Catalog V-9

BOSTON SCHOOL OF INTERIOR DECORATION Correspondence Courses Course A—Professional Training Courses. — — Course—How to Plan Your wn Enrollment limited—Write for Prospectus

Address P. O. Box 143, Boston (Copley Station), Mass. a DELIGHT IN SMARTLY DRESSED

= é b qm (CHARM ARTISTRY IN DRESS [fut [32] <3] | AUTHORITATIVE GUIDE TO APPEARANCE ET oa ? fi [FOR ALL WHO PREFER SMARTNESS reas MIDS CONKLINS gIACADEMYorFINE Arts/ /rsts 7 s 81 EAST MADISON STREET BY MAIL : HICAGO. 1 | | m - SECRETARIAL SCHOOL a/© weer ’ [33] HOROUGH professional training a a — secretaryships and executive poe "x GRAND CENTRAL SCHOOL OF ART . sitions. ; & The school occupies the studios of the e Summer classes in New York [33] Tilden Building; classrooms opening Ei June ist to September Ist cm — a — garden have abundance of = Summer Painting {3} ght and air. 3) Classes on the Seashore at ie The Bureau of Placement is a recog- 7 1 Point Pleasant, New Jersey [33] nized feature of the School. Graduates 33] j Ist to September 30th . duly D & wa ag for varied and responsible ca For catalog address bs) Succensive entrance dates. i Soins Gesbet Sinan of Ont | ae petit 2 Grand Central Bidg., N.Y.C, é a a = 105 West 40th Street, New York ; Bs ste sit &|| NATIONAL ACADEMY of COMMERCIAL ART a m | Pelouze Bldg., 230. Ohio St. Chicago-- OMEN £P ©)

Ohe Cllebeland Tustitute of (Jusic A complete school of music Orchestral, choral and ensemble training included in all regular courses Fall Term Opens October 5 Mrs. Franklyn B. Sanders, Acting Director Send for catalogue B

. ponent to “ — number of new students- yp nee personal attention to Lafimers in all heed Tilustration and Design Consult our Director, Proctor M.Fis e, Without charge, regarding your studies --- for Fall Term starting Sept.29th-write for Free catalog 9»«————_—-{gB9 NVESTIGATE only school of kind before decid- ing. Address—Secretary, 2239 Broadway, N. Y. N. Y. SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. Register for Sept. Professional Interior Decoration, Stage & Costume Design, Poster Advertising, Teachers’ Training.

School of the MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS year Boston, Mass. Instructors: Philip L. Hale, F. z A. Bosley, W. James, L. P. Thompson, A. Cross, Charles Graffy, F. W. Allen, Henry Hunt Clark, A, J. Morse, G. J. Hunt. Ill. booklet.

SR METROPOLITAN ar oe MICHEL Jacoss, Director. 58 W. 57 St., Authorof*‘TheArt of C ctor The Study Sion” LIFE—PORTRAIT—POSTER—COSTUME DESIGN—INTERIOR DECORATION Classes starting Monday, September 14 ST. LOUIS SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS Courses in Drawing, Painting, Modeling, Com- mercial Art, Interior Decoration, Crafts, etc. Address E. H. WUERPEL, Director, Room (2 WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY, St. Louis. H. 38 NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED | ART Felix Mahony, Pre Interior Decoration, Costume, Gommnereis! Poster & Textile Design. Illustration and Life, etc. Catalog. Connecticut Ave. and M St., Washington, D. C. VESPER GEORGE SCHOOL FINE AND APPLIED ARTS 131 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass.

Booklet. 2827 Euclid Avenue Cleveland, Ohio

incinnati Sonservatory) EST. 1867 OF MUSIC,INC. Noted Faculty in all branches. Dormitories. Baur, Director. For catalogue address P. Howard, Registrar, Cincinnati, 0.

THE CURTIS go by Mary Louise Curtis | Heads of Departments in- dade Marcella Sembrich, Voice; INSTITUTE sd Hofmann, Piano; Cati | Flesch, Violin; Leopold Stokow- OF MUSIC ski, Orchestra. Catalogue.

MINNA KAUFMANN Teacher of Singing The LILLI LEHMANN Method 601-602 Carnegie Hall New York City Tel. Circle 1350 Sec. J. C. Cartall Circular on request

Traphagen School of Fashion The only art school in America which bridges the gulf between the amateur and professional. All phases from elementary to full mastery of costume design and illustration taught in shortest time compatible with thoroughness. Under per- sonal instruction of ETHEL TRAPHAGEN. Studio equipment superior to that of any art school in New York. Every modern improvement and convenience ; must be seen to be appre- ciated. Specializing has materially added to the strength of this school. Our Sales Department pro- vides for the disposal of stu- dent work, Write now for announcement V. THE TRAPHAGEN SCHOOL OF FASHION 200 West 57th Street New York costume desi de luxe dres smalc/ de luxe ne | one york ok courses

most po studio ree | browns designers 597-599 fifth avenue, MISS BLANCHE REDDY) MAN Distinctive Millinery is the Marko} a Well Dressed Woman Learn to create your own exclusive styles in @ thoroughly practical and ene AF, under the personal direction pert. Completion “ - — rae permite fu fulfill ng respon- sible, lucrative posi and Evening Classes. Booklet upon A a ADELAIDE MILLER STUDIO 20 WEST FORTY-NINTH STREET NEW YORK CITY Our pleasant contacts with schools permit a very special service if a last-minute enrollment is desired. Write The Condé Nast Educationa’ Bureau. FASHION ART Costume Design—Fashion Illustration Individval Progress—Under direction of at Lh WADE RAY and JUNE cag E COMMERCIAL ART SCHOO Dest. ce V, 116 South Michigan Ave., Tews

FASHION ILLUSTRATION The New School of Design, Inc. 1680 BROADWAY 248 BOYLSTON ST.

NEw York Boston DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- sale, retail or home use. Day and Evening Classes. Call or write for particulars. Established 1876. McDowell Dressmaking and Millinery School. No Branches. 58 West 40th St., New York Bertha 3

648 Rittenhouse Sq., Phila., Pa. © ew york | (Just off Fifth Avenue)

Sept

condu who with

Fan snnanaununnnnnsvonennnueee fhe Ek. Advanced § Resid

EUP i of Rush M A boardin: emotionally children wi School, 564 for Childr Three sepa! ages requil Instruction. HELENA T The SAN For treatm fective and given birtt disorders, | normal nor The For Exc GIRLS Booklet Mrs.

THE Bi An ideal ward and n ical Cultur Open year R. ane New Yi Ghe k for Gir Limited em from Bost 31 Par PE] For childre: tion. Uns Home life. Franklin H. s A special s st ‘ruction. . ealthful I oa estate, Cullingford,

Page 75

“we usic semble ll r5 Director nd, Ohio

» INC. ies. Bertha i, 0. 4 uise Curtis | tments in- ich, Voice; ano; Carl Id Stokow- ogue. Phila., Pa. © (NN ng ethod il equest —

. shion bridges ssional. mentary costume | taught patible der per- ETHEL erior to hool in modern snience ; appre- terially of this nt pro- of stu- SHION w York

TS | pyork fark of ,

fn @ we nf r respon- ; Classes, UDIO EET Avenue) it a very s desired. reau.

NERY or whole- - Classes. ed 1876. School. New York

L925 September iy

SPECIAL SCHOOLS

SPECIAL SCHOOLS

SPECIAL SCHOOLS

DENISHAWN THE RUTH ST. OENIS ANO TEO SHAWN SCHOOL OF DANCING AND (TS RELATED ARTS Fall Courses Open Sept. 14th Intermediate and Advanced Classes Beginning, The interpretation of everything vital and beautiful that has ever been contributed to the art of the dance by the peoples of all age. Short Courses Always Open 327 West 28th Street, Mabel C. Shawn, Manager Los Angeles Branch—Fall Courses Start October 5th 932 South Grand Avenue Five Branches

Illustrated Catalog Upon Request New York

Margerie Lyon, Manager New York and Los Angeles

OUR next amateur entertain- ment can be a BIG success— the same time your relieved of worry and who staged the and ‘‘Midnight Frolics’’ in New York, and over 500 other Revues, Musical Comedies, Headline Vaudeville productions and college and society entertain- ments, will shape your material with a_pro- fessional touch, and make the most of the amateur material available, or if desired, fur- nish EVERYTHING—libretto, lyrics, music, scenery, costumes, electrical equipment etc.— Write for details of this remarkable service. No obligation. Do it today. and at can be Ned Wayburn, organization responsibility. ‘ best editions of ‘The Follies’

Staged Last Season Junior League Follies in Kansas City, Atlanta, New Haven and Prov- idence, and the annual shows of the Princeton Triangle Club; Vin- cent Club (Boston); Chatterbox Revue (Rochester); N. Y. Edison Co.; Filene Store (Boston) ; 3 Ss State College; Mass. Tech. ; Jewelers 24-Karat Club; Mrs. Wn. K. Vanderbilt, 2nd’s ‘‘Persian Jazz Fete’’, and many others!

Do You Wish to Appear to Best hitientasé In Your Next Amateur Show? NED WAYBURN Studios of Stage Dancing Inc. 1841 Broadway, at Columbus Circle (Entrance on 60th Street) Studio VK, New York Open (Closed * Km wince #4 M.) Phone Columbus 3500 New Fall Children’s Term Starts Sat. Sept. 26th. Children’s Classes on Saturdays

Individual Instruction in Dancing At the famous Ned Wayburn Studios complete courses in EVERY type of Dancing are offered for those who want to develop their talents so that they may appear to best advantage in the enter- tainments in which they take part, or for those who want to go on the stage. This is not only the largest but the ONLY school of its kind in the world. EVERY type of dancing is taught. Many come to the Ned Wayburn Studios merely to develop health, beauty of figure, grace and poise. Visit the Studios and see for yourself, If you cannot call, write for FREE illustrated Booklet VK NOW! New classes start Oct. 5th. 9 A.M. to 10 P.M. Daily Except oe meg

a a Esdon Hall Chestnut Hill, Philadelphia, Pa. A school on a beautiful country estate conducted by Miss Agnes H. Lawrence who has had unlimited experience with training the exceptional child. Summer residence in Maine iF E-RSKINE. ScHoo. Advanced Study for agg who are not in College Residence House For catalog Address EUPHEMIA E. SMeCLINTOCK, A. M. 129 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass. ORTHOGEMIC SCHOOL of Rush Medical College of University of Chicago A boarding and day school for mentally and emotionally handicapped children and for backward children with physical defects. —* Orthogemic School, 5644 So. Park Ave., Chicago DEVEREUX SCHQ@LS | for Children whose Progress has been Retarded Three separate schools ~< Boys and Girls of all ages requiring Scientific Observation and Special Instruction. Male faculty for older boys. HELENA T. DEVEREUX, Dir. Box V, BERWYN, PA. HLT TTT

The SANATORIUM SCHOOL, Lansdowne, Pa. For treatment and instruction of physically de- fective and abnormal children. Special attention given birth injuries, cerebral hemorrhage. speech disorders, paralysis and the child who is neither normal nor feeble minded. Claudia Minor Redd The Woods’ School For Exceptional Caltdren— Three Schoo: IRULS BOYS TTLE FOLKS Booklet Box 169 anaes. Pa. ike. Mollie Woods Hare, Principal

THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING SCHOOL An ideal private home-school for nervous, back- ward and mental defectives. No age limit. Phys- ical Culture. Manual eo = all branches. Open year round. Terms $75 month and up. MR. and MRS. AUGUST a” ‘BOLD T, Supt. New York, Binghamton, 114 Fairview Ave. GeF REER. SAOOL for Girls of Retarded Development Limited enrollment permits intimate care. 9 miles from Boston. Miss Cora E,. Morse, Principal, 31 Park Cirele, Arlington Heights, Mass. PERKINS Soi0eh For children requiring special training and educa- tion. Unsurpassed equipment on 60-acre estate. — life. Experienced Staff. Medical direction. Franklin H. Perkins, M.D., Box 54, Lancaster, Mass.

STANDISH MANOR SCHOOL A special school for backward girls. Individual in- Siruction, Experienced teachers. Happy home life. Healthful location. Out-door and water sports. ~ cre estate. Alice M. Myers, Principal, Hazel G Cullingford, Ass’t Principal, HALIFAX, MASS. “Oun Your OwnTea Room

‘ 1. are being made in Tea Rooms, Motor Inns and Coffee Shops everywhere. You can open one in your own home or manage one already going. Big salaries paid trained managers, Weteach you entire Dusiness in your spare time. Be inde- pendent. Free Book *‘Pouring Tea for Profit.” Lewis Tea Room Institute, Dept. W-5635 Washington, D

The BANCROFT School For Retarded Children Forty-second Year Winter School near Philadel- phia, Summer Camp in Maine. 54 acres of ground, 20 build- ings, 68 employees, including 12 teachers and 26 governesses. For School catalog or Camp booklet address Box 145, HADDONFIELD, N. E. A. Farrington, M. D. Jenzia Coulson Cooley

WANTED WOMEN TO LEARN THE BUSINESS OF HAPPINESS—NEW EASY WAY—EARN $4,000 TO $20,000 A YEAR Refined Profession, Steady Employment. Only school teaching Beauty Culture by the new method of visual instruc- tion which enables you to see just how facial and scalp treatments are given, Expert teachers supervise these classes as well as those in — permanent waving, electrolysis and hair tinting. During instruction all _ students receive FREE cosmetics, lotions, ete. Day and evening classes; easy terms. Write nearest school for catalogue and complete booklet. National School of Cosmeticians, Affiliated With Harnett 72 5th Ave., New York City 808 Tower Court, Chicago 808 LaSalle Ave., Minneapolis 121 North Broad St., Philadelphia 128 E. Sixth St., Cincinnati 2404 W. 7th St., Los Angeles

WRITE US kind of a problem your special solved to-order. Vogue Vanity Fair 21 West 44th Street

ABOUT IT! Have you used the Condé Nast Educational Bureau? Have you chosen a camp or a finishing school or a school abroad—any sort of school—from the pages of Vogue? If you have, won’t you tell us about it? A// about it? What how .Mary Catherine liked the school how brown Peter was when he came back from the camp .. . how he sat his horse like a Cossack. Partly because we'd like to know you were pleased. But mostly, because the special usefulness of our school service—its distinc- tive value—lies in the fact that it insists on a very precise fitting of a solution to a problem. Our solutions are, as it were, made- They aren’t the ready-to-wear kind that fit well enough in some spots, but only indifferently well in others. And the more precise our information, the more valuable the whole service can be made for you and for others. And if, while writing, you have another problem to solve; you are looking for the right school for Mary Catherine, who’s ready for boarding school now; or for Peter, who’s trouble with his Latin—well, after all we would rather have a letter telling us about that than any other kind. Our organization, through years of experience, and a stubborn insistence on delicate distinctions, has a specialized knowledge of American and foreign schools that cannot fail to be helpful, and we are glad to lay it at your feet. course, And, at this late season, with all possible expedition. The Conde Nast Educational Bureau how it was just problem was . . if having Without charge, of House & Garden New York City

TAUGHT BY WALTER BAKER | Formerly Dancing

Master Ziegfeld Follies, John Cort, Chas, Dillingham, Lee & J. J. Shubert, Geo. M. Cohan, others, Teacher of Marilynn Miller, Ray Dooley, Fairbanks Twins, Florence Walton and _ others, Booklet V free 900 7th Ave., N. Y. Circle 8290 ROSETTA O’NEILL DANCING Classie—National—Folk—Rhythmie—Bal] Room **To Miss O'Neill I owe my — 746 Madison Ave., N.Y. Phone Rhinclentenenns

ILA D. KNOWLES School of Dancing Classes now forming Private Instruction New Address STEINWAY HALL 113 W. 57th St. New York

VESTOFF SEROVA SCHOOL Ballet, Classic—Interpretative Dancing. Baby Work. Text-books ‘‘Imperial Method’’ (Illustrated) and ‘Training on Toes.”’ Normal Courses June 1st Write for Booklet V 47 West 72nd St., N.Y.C. Tel. Trafalgar 785 CARTER - WADDELL School of Dancing For the professional, the amateur and the teacher. 18 West 72nd St., New York Tel. Endicott 4188 AGNES BOONE School of the Dance Formerly Universities, Stanford and California Teacher, Denishawn School, New York. Address The Secretary, Suite 512-515 New Steinway Hall, 113 W. 57th St., New York. MIKHAIL MORDKIN’S INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE DANCE Circle 8367 108 Central Park South New York CH ALI RUSSIAN NORMAL SCHOOL of DANCING Louis H. CHALIF, Principal. “l admire your energy and work.’ ANNA PAVLOVA. Fall and Winter Courses. Catalog on reouest. 163-165 WEST 57TH ST., NEW YORK CITY Your letter of inquiry about schools or camps will receive the personal attention of a woman trained in educational matters who will be glad to help you in the solution of your problem. Write The Condé Nast Educational Bureau. GRACE G. GIRARD THE FINE ART OF JIU-JITSU Scientific Self-Defense for Women Studio 428 Lafayette Street, New York City

The Sargent School thhysica! Founded oot so Dr. D. A. Sargent. Booklet on request. L.W. SARGENT: ‘tiene Cambridge, Mass.

DELBERT CARTER School For the PhysicaHy Handicapped but Mentally Alert. Individual Training for the Young Boy or Girl. Trained Nurse. Special Dietitian. ofhaney Home Atmosphere. Boarding and Day Stud Hatboro, Pa. Mrs | i. H. Thorn

Page 76

66 —~ a » i A V i fa Ars =. 4 @ = ~—s eo - +. 5 — & Gi f pos > OKs 4 SS 4 os ‘3 Se | ° ° w\yte e we + ° 4 gs 4 bs \ 5 le ay) a ahi at “Oy? “4 - - — cle ie +4 AMA we Of ' ~ ye ° 3 +e iy reste re >. ° ¢ eC OND LAND vl IS ) ZR ‘o e oe + 4 g .* VY ) yy ee g fs a Zz, > Fog é Y * Lib ~~ > | y —— oo 7 675°. Antiques A reference directory of uniform advertisements Furniture & Furnishings

A. WERTHEIM—NEW YORK—ROME—BERLIN 534 Madison Ave., N. Y. Tel. Plaza 0246, with its pewter, tapestries, brocades, antiques and_reproduc- tions is a branch of the European concern A. Wertheim. Arts and Crafts

classified Jor the convenience of the reader Advertising rates given upon request. Shoppers’ & Buyers’ Guide, Vozue, 19 West Forty-Fourth Street, New York

Beauty Culture—Cor Christmas Cards—Cont.

MINIATURES favorite photograph, painted in water color, on ivory. inquiries given prompt attention. Kdward Mauser, 15 Kast 26th Street, N. Y. City SEND TODAY for deseriptive folder showing actual samples of the new and beautiful Alice Gray Luncheon Sets West Chester, Penna, Your

Alice Gray

Art-Needlework

REMOVAL of Superfluous Hair is now accomplished for sure through the Tricho System created after 25 years painstaking research by a former professor and lecturer at Fordham, Polyclinic and Cornell. Go to TRICHO if you want to remove superfluous hair. ‘Ihe Treatment is the real, true, sure, safe way. We have received many letters of praise from satisfied patients and heartily recommend all readers to call at our place for treat- ment. Lifelong, Money-back guarantee for every hair the Tricho System fails to remove. Come in to any one of our branches for free cons iitation. Interesting treatise No. 7 describing this wonderful method sent EXCLUSIVE ITALIAN LINENS. Reticello Cut- “ vat os a Pte work in antique designs, adapted to modern uses. yin a _ — enrelene. Ree | pe Bate Dinner, Lunch, Tea, Bridge Tray Sets. All’Arte del aa a since 40 1 EPI ~~ ope! N _ ” Lino, 177 MacDougal St. near Washn, Sa., N.Y.C a ar ROS, HOWEES, Me o>

KNOTTED BEDSPREADS. NETTED CANOPIES attractive with Field and Four Post Beds. Old Tea Sets in Wedgwood, Coalport, Chelsea & Salopian. Other Antiques. Folk Industries. Greenwich, Conn, ORRA PRODUCTS—Orra Cleansing Milk—grease- less—stimulates and nourishes the tissues $1.10 pp. A greaseless fluffy Cream removes all wrinkles. Orra Eathorne, Suite 512, 605—5ih Ave., N. : Christmas Cards—HANDPAINTED ENGRAVED. Send $1.00 for spec.al assortment of 15 cards. Other samples on approval. Lydia M. Reeder, 412 W. Ninth | Ave., _Columbus, 0.

Cleaning & > Dawe

WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS made of fine satins, silks and sateens, tilled with selected lamb’s wool. Illustrated Booklet V on request. Wilkinson Sisters. l.igonier, Indiana. HOUSE & GARDEN’S Second Book of Houses. 600 illustrations of homes you will find helpful in plan- ning your own, 192 pages, beautifully printed, bound in cloth, $4.00. Greenwich, Conn.

Furs

EXPERT FUR REMODELING AND REPAIRING Latest style according to Vogue. Prices very moder- ate. Satisfaction guaranteed. Est. 1886. Hirshfeld Fur Co., Inc., 71 W. 46.hSt., N. ¥. Bry. 726 65

KNICKERBOCKER Cleaning & Dyeing Co. lligh class cleaners and dyers. Main Office, 402 E, 3lsc St., N. Y. C. Branch offices in N. Y. City, also White Plains and New Rochelle. New York. BARRETT, NEPHEWS & COMPANY Old Staten Island Dyeing Establishment, Inc. Established 1819 Premier Cleaners & Dyers of America Everything for the wardrobe and home cleaned and dyed. 33 Stores; see telephone book New York Brooklyn Philadelphia Newack Klizabe h

Boston

Auction Bridge DO YOUR HANDS SATISFY YOU? Maccabee Hand Cream will restore ch!kihvod’s soft- ness to the reddest & harshest hands $1.00 & $1.50 ppd. B. F. MeCabe, Ph. G. 69 East 87th Street. N.Y,

Corsets and Brassiéres

Lillian Sherman Rice, 231 W. 96th St., N. Y. Author “Bridge in a nutshell’, Private & Classes Course in 6 lessons, Also by mail. Inferences. Con- centration a _ Specialty. Tel. River 2483 or 1464 SHEPARD’S STUDIO, INC., .. 20 W. 54th St., N. Y. College of Auction Bridge. Expert personal instruc- tion, individuals or classes, beginners or advanced players. Svecial course by mail. Tel. Circle 100iL ELECTROLYSIS by up-to-date method. Graduate in charge. Private room, separate entrance. Louise Berthelon. 48 East 49th Strect, N. Y. Murray Hill 2768 MME. S. SCHWARTZ—Now 36 West 5ith St., Y., formerly 11 East 47th Street. Custom ‘made’ and all novelties in Corsets for the Woman of Fashion. Gowns & Blouses Alude to Order THE MISSES CURRAN und evening gowns and ind also) do remodeling at 134 Lexington Ave. (29th St.), N. MME. TARMA makes dresses of to suit your individual taste, at Also remodeling 129 East 60th St., N. Y.

will make you a prices, . Mad. Sq. 8188 unusual charm moderate prices, Tel. Regent 2895

FELICITE 691 Madison Avenue, New York Coats & Hats—Wardrobes to order or ready to wear. Layett tes—Linens—Monograms

Gowns Bought

SUPERFLUOUS HAIR? ON FACE-ARMS-LEGS? Maccabee Bleach renders hair practically invisible —quickly—safely—$1.50 postpaid. RB. F. MeCabe, Ph.G. 69 Mast 87th Street, N.Y.C.

Your Own Name On Bridge Scores. 250 officialiy ruled shects, 6 x 9 in. Your name on each sheet. Ppd. anywhere, $2.00. Send for illustrations of othcr novel gifts. Beach Co., 904 Sycamore, Cincinnati, O. MOLES, Warts, Birthmarks removed without using knife or drugs. Leaves no scar. Practically painless, Tel. Circle 1144

LIDA GILDER—140 WEST 57th ST.—N. Y. Auction Bridge (Whitehead System). Private and class lessons for advanced students. Beginners tutored. Telephone Circle 3053. Dr. Achorn, 6 West 5st St., N. Y. FLESH REDUCING CREAM. Will reduce from 3 to 5 lbs. a week, Patients taken for treatment. Sample jar with instructions $3.50. Ilarmless. I. A. Goodell, 268 Brookline Ave., Boston, Mass.

Babies’ Things Bed Quilts

AIR OF REFINEMENT reflected VIRGINIA’S children’s wear to 3 years. Layettes in handmade and French Bonnets a specialty. No catalog. On approval. Tdeal Baby & Gift Shop, Roanoke, Va.

Beads and Beaded Bags Tt tele Ag Senemat. PATCHWORK QUILTS kind our great grandmothers made & Prined. ola patterns faithfully reprod.ced in finest materials & fast colors. Exquisite machine stitch- ing makes price possible. Candlewick Spreads $5.75 genuine hand-made. Write for illustrated booklet showing Quilts and Spreads. Elizabeth Finlay, P. O. Box 3, South Station, Evanston, II1.

BEADS ALL KINDS, Instruction Books on Bead Work, Looms, Pearls, Write for the Blue Book oi Beads. Bead Bags Repaired. Joe Michel 37 West 39th Street, N. Y.

Books GOSSARD CORSET SHOP—179 Madison Ave., at 34th St., N. Y. C. Retail headq:ariers for Gossard Corsets. 50 different models for all figures. Remarkable values $3.50 up. Fittings by experienced corsetieres, GOSSARD CORSET FITTING PARLOR—Retail 601 Mad. Ave., at 57th St., N. Y. Fitted by Gossard Corsetiere at shop or residence. Corsets to order Mail orders by measurement solicited. Regent 4848 LOUISE GREENWOOD—CORSET EXPERT Every description of Corset or Brassiere copied; Made to order. Remodcled, cleaned. Mail corset for estimate, 500-fth Ave., N.Y. a

Longacre 8172 MME. CLAFF SHOULE Corselettes—the proper foundation for the present mode. Also corsets for all occasions. Brassieres 1? Kast 48th Sr., N.Y. Murray Hill 1326 WEAR WEBBER'S TUME BELT at once reduces stomach 3 to 7 inches. Price $3.50 Imported material comfort Brassiere $5.00 1719 Pacific Ave., Atlantic City, N. J

HIGHEST CASH VALUE PAID for your slightly used or misfit Gowns, Suits, Street & Evening Dresses. Also Furs, Diamonds, Jewelry, Silverware, Furniture, Rugs, Draperies, etc. Phone, Bryant 0670—for an appointment. Special attention given to out-of-town patrons. Mme. Naftal, 69 West 45th Street, N. Y. City WE PAY CASH For Wearing Apparel and Jewelry Tlighest Prices, Full Value Guaranteed Mme. Furman, 103 West 47th St., N. ¥. Bryant 1376 HIGHEST PRICES PAID for your Gowns, Wraps, etc. Miss Duff, 151 West 46th St., N. Y. Bryant 8247 MME. NAFTAL, Tel.

strect blouses for all occasions | Bryant 0670, pays highest © cash value for fine misfit or slightly uscd evening | & street frocks, furs, diamonds, jewelry, silverware, Kstablished over 80 years. 69 West 45th Street, N. Y.

FRANCES HUNT, INC. 9 East 48th Street — York City orsetieres SPECIALISTS IN NORMAL & STOUT FIGURES Negligees, Lingerie Corselettes, Brassieres Telephone Murray Hill 4913

REPAIRING OF SILK AND BEADED BAGS. Frames for Beaded Bags. Silk bags to order. Tapestry Bags. Catalogue upon re on A, lL. Workman, 1 West 34th Street, N. Y. VOGUE FASHION BI-MONTHLY contains features that formerly appeared in Vogue Pattern Book & Children’s Vogue, including all Vogue patterns. $2yr. $3 for 2 yrs. Condé Nast Pub. Inc., Greenwich,. Ct.

Damages onClothing MadeInvisible

TRENE PENN BAG IMPORTER Latest creations direct from Paris. Your worn bags, repaired by us, look like new. 562 Madison Ave., N. Y. C.

‘Beauty Culture offer of 2 years’ subscription for $5.00; regular rate $3.50 a year. Send your order to Dept. A. Vanity Fair Greenwich, Conn.

Gowns, Frocks and Dresses

Gowns Remodeled, Made to Order, reasonably priced. ixclusive Frocks smartly designed, fine workmanship. Mail orders a specialty Mme. Nobele, 18 West 49th St., N. Y. Gowns Remodeled Bryant 1547

Hi'l

Dancing “ MOTH-HOLES, ‘Tears, Burns on garments made | “THE MENDING SHOP” Gowns Tailored, Suits | yond al gongs ae a invisible by re-weaving. Shine on clothing perma- | Remodeled up-to-date. Shop Blouses and Gowns Literature Drama ‘Art, The Ss} rts The Sta “y nently removed. Guarantee Damage Weaving, Co., | Refitted. Miss HM. Redding Coughlin, 17 KE. 4oth Tel. Plaza 4087 Bridge Golf, Motors, and Men’s Fashions Speciai 146-Fifth Ave., bet. 19th & 20th Sts., N. Y. C. [ St., N. Y. No Branches. lhone 5062 Mur. MY RE-BUILDING OF GOWNS IS THE TALK © of New York, because I make creations out of gowns that seem hopeless. Mail orders. Atalanta Uomcr, Ltd., 134 East 55th St., N. Y. Plaza

MME. MAYS treatments for satisfactorily restoring 9 E, 59th St., HELENE L. SWENEY, N. Y. City | One Refined Woman in each locality is offered by contour, removing wrinkles, scars, freckles, tighten- . . Expert in Modern Dances, teaching gentlemen to | The Condé Nast Publications, an opportunity to make ing muscles, given only at my one address, Boudoir Accessories lead; ladies to follow; eorrecting all foults. Special | money in an agreeable way. If interested, write 50 West 49th St., N. Y. Bryant 9126. Booklet. Normal Course. Diplomas. Regent 8193. Mr. John Ramsay, Condé Nast Publ., Greenwich, Conn, Vera Sanville inc., 9 E. 46th St., N. Y. Mur. Hill 2143 ETUDE de DANSE . Whether te Ie g Shointoe warwel etetassage | Lingerie, Negligees, ‘Trousseatix-Lamps, “Cushions, eee ten Sata Hair Colori or any other beauty aid, you will get the ete. including all the dainty accessories that con- _Private or class lessons. ee air Covoring utmost in scientific treatment at tribute to feminine charm. Trafalgar 1256 334 West 72nd Street N. Y. C a MARINELLO _ MISS FAY EVELYN For PREMATURELY GREY HAIR use Oriental “The Greatest Beauty Institute in the World’ ° ’ "7: New York's leading teacher of Henna Vaste. Shades from light Brown to Blac. | Western Expert Dept. Eastern Expert Dept. Children S 7 hings Modern Dances and Tango Price $3.00. Sample postpaid $1.00. Literature ee 900—Tth Ave. at 57th St., N. Y. (irele 7592 request. Andre. 16 East 37th St., N.Y. ! 80} Tower Ct. Bldg., Chicago, Ill. 72-5th Ave, N.Y

EYEBROWS & LASHES permanently attractive. Darsen with Coloura! Adds winsome expression. Will not wash off. $1.10 ppd. Treatment 50c. at Spiro’s 26 West 38th St., & 34 W. 46th St., N. Y. THE CHILDREN’S SHOP, 20 East 46th Street, New York. Murray Hill 0779. Boys’ suits to 4 years. frocks to 14 years—From original sketches. Tel. Girls’

SUPERFLUOUS HAIR removed by the painless method originated by Dr. Roebling Geyser, a li- censed physician, This is the lith year of its suecessful use. No electric needle or chemical used. Satisfaction guaranteed. Booklet sent in plain sealed envelope upon request. Dr. Roebling Geyser. 107 East 35th St., New York City 2001 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. NANA, LTD. 24 East 66th Street, New York Infants’ and Children’s Dresses made to individual order. MISS L. BROGAN, 27 East 54th St., New York Tel. Plaza 7280. Exceptionally attractive infants’ & children’s clothes, negligees & boudoir accessories. Palm Beach New Orleans,

Flesh Reduction A BOOKLET BY DR. DENSMORE on treatment for reduction of Corpulency will be mailed without charge upon request to Dept. ““H”’ Garfielu Tea Co. 313—41st Street

Brooklyn, N. Y.

WHY HAVE GREY OR FADED HAIR? Bt. I’av < { Henna. Composed pulverized Henna; Herbs, Will not rub off. 14 shades. Harmless-Shon a voliea’ ior ‘ Postpaid $1.60. B. Paul, 21 West 39th St., N. Y.

Hair Goods MANUEL, originator of Modern Transformation and the sight proof parting. Wigs, side piecss and toupes. Specialist in hair goods exclusivel . Booklet. 29 Mast 48th ®&t., N. Y. Mur, Hill 5757

LUCILLE SAVOY TOILETRIES OF QUALITY WONDERFUL NEW TREATMENT _ restores LOUIS PARME Blended Shades of Exquisite Poudre beautifying . beauty, youthful figure, vigor and health. Colon Master of the art of making complexions. $1.50 box postpaid. Astor Theatre Chintzes irrigation. esufts guaranteed. Finlandia Health transformations and exclusive hair goods. js, Isidg. (Times Sq.), N. ¥Y. Chickering 6130. Studio, 17 East 45th St., N. Y. Tel. Mur. Hil! 3068. 18 West 57th St., Phone Circle 49 °

ACTRESS INVENTION will restore your face in youthful contour, A sure, safe secret; no stretching of skin, wire or spring. Harmless. Sadie MacDonald, 1482 Broadway, Room 609, N. Y. MME. JULIAN’S HAIR DESTROYER eradicates all superfluous hair (with roots). No electricity or poison. Stood test 50 years. Mme. Julian 34 West 51st Street, N. Y. VIROZOL the genuine SWEDISH FACE BATH Refreshing, Refines the texture, pores & features, Bleaches. Rebuilds tissues $2 bottle. Send for lit- erature. Virozol Co., 248 E, 34th St., Dept. 5, N.Y.

The Chintz Shop, 431 Madison Ave., N.Y.C. Every- thing in Chintz, Linen, Cretonne. 4914 Maryl’d Ave., St: Louis, Mo. ; 3805 B’way, Kansas City, Mo. ; 2521 Salem Ave., Cincin., O.; 114 So. 20th St., Phila. REDUCTION BATHS. $5.00 buys the formula, harmless, effective, easy to prepare. Money order or certified checks only. Self addressed stamped en- veione. Jarimer James, 137 East 19th St., N. Y.

Hats

Christmas Cards Reduce a pound a day Nature’s way. Dissolve Flo-Ra-Zo-Na, a fragrant powder, in your bath. Guaranteed harmless. Satisfaction guar. 14 baths $3.50. Florazona Corp., 100—5th Ave., N. Y. Dept. V67. REMODELER OF HATS “A Hat of Yesterday” —redesigned into a ‘‘last word’’ creation. Smart new Hats to order. Mail Orders a specialty. J’rices reasonable. Irene Franks, 18 W. 49th St., N. ¥._

PERSONAL ENGRAVED CHRISTMAS CARDS exclusive designs, magnificent assortment, delivered anywhere. Send for samples at once. Everett Waddey Co., 5 So. 11th St., Richmond, Va. REDUCE—EAT WHAT YOU LIKE. New way to reduce fat. No dieting or exercising. Not de- pressing but invigorating.

Dr. Robinson, 1440 Broadw ay, N.Y. By appointment.

REBUILDER OF HATS A DISCARDED HAT successfully transformed into a smart new model !' New Yerk’s original Hat Remodeler. New hats t’ order. Mailorders, ‘Louise’, 124 East 55th St., N. Y. Sept

Hem a Buttons | stitching : stomer’s Mail orde — Specialist: Jiuns and Blakema Lenox Hos ce Jeu FRANK reclous & velry es Sih Madi: RANDOLI Jtlack, Sta \ppraisers irties, G HAR to ¢3 Diamonds, It. J. Len: 1: rh BENNET precious } 75 Broad

Jewel CaSH H FO

Come to 77 dresses, 9 $1.20. Han enter, mA, a $7.00 inve: of dollars. ill-chosen | you to be special sub most intere rate, $5.00 Mono CASH’S V household 4 prices, J. Conn.. Bell “INDELLO manently 1 00 «of ) oy Kaumageran

ARTHU Mom Ve PATTERNS tions, deseri attention t 111 Texinet P RUBERT— Jeune Garec Man Si at J. SCHAEF manent Wa no diseolora 590 Fith NcSTLE’S Ovicina Experts Phone ' “MY $I Perman John Halloh

Permanent The result | wae, 17 F PAUL - iir Tintin; 4 Fifth Ay LOUISE E near Park A JOHN BRO’ announte at 42 West Where | he He Phone P:

Page 77

1gS 2UILTS tilled with Kkle. V on : Indiana, Houses. 600 ul in plan- ly printed, EPAIRING very mode:- you street 1 occasions 7 ile prices, d. Sq. 8188 | sual charm ‘ate prices, tezent 2895 | c » Fi 7 4 ’ be 4 a ? 6 i, tn ?

The Twin-Strap—a modish vogue in autumn footwear Plack Satin, $16.50 Patent Leather, $17.50 Coll or Silver Brocade $20 WASHINGTON. EXHIBIT cacao Woodward Bld T Peoples Trust & Savi Shenhons eel S H OPS Bank Bldg — EW HAVE ST LOUTI PITTSBURGH Xs Hotel Taft xX Arcade Building Jenkins Phone We have no asencies— Our Shoes are sold in our own Shops only

AAD AAA A KAA ADE AEE OEE

WEDDING CAKE IN BOXES and WEDDING NOVELTIES ‘i carry away a piece of Wedding Cake—perchance to dream upon it—is a sweet tradition from older days. Dean’sfamous Black Wedding Cake in exquisitely monogrammed boxes, stamps the charming custom with distinction. Dean’s also supplies Bride’s Cakes, Place Favors, Table Decorations, etc. Write for “Wedding Requisites” —our illustrated price list. COMPLETE CATERING SERVICE WITHIN REASONABLE DISTANCE OF NEW YORK. 628 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK Established 85 years

Page 78

AEOLUS An adaptation of a recently pre- sented Perugia afternoon and evening slipper of lustrous black or brown satin. Ribbon-like straps form an effective wish- bonedesign overinstep. 18.50. PRESSE A formal slipper of mauve, flesh, purple, tango, peacock blue, green or black satin. Vamps, hand -embroidered in France with pastel ribbons. Silver or goldkid heelsandstraps. 18.50. BEAUFORT Gold or silver kid applique — favored by Perugia—on slippers of red, blonde, green, black or pink satin. Heels match appli- que. Silver orgoldclothslippers, kid applique and heels. 27.50. BOLERO A step-in tailored model for street wear of black patent leather with iridescent trimming and an insert of lizardskin. Also a model of brown or black ooze with insert of lizardskin, 18.50. Grey or brown simulated lizard- skin with grey or brown kid banding and heel. Black patent leather model with grey, brown or black simulated lizard- ‘skin banding and heel. 18.50. DUILIO A smart tailored model of black patent leather with grey or brown simulated lizardskin insert; black ooze with black patent, and brown ooze with brown patent trimming. 18.50. Sep rc Hen wich, C Edito Condé } Ae Woolma: SAKS ~ FIFTH. AVENUE ae unsolici' FORTY NINTH TO FIFTIETH STREET, NEW YORK amen canny

Page 79

OGUE September IS, HE last days of summer were busy and secretive days in the ateliers of Paris, days when the great couturiers were bent to their task of creation, when dreams took shape in silks, and satins, and furs, and clever fingers stitched the magic of their art It was all in preparedness for the first Paris Openings, revolutionary events that echo around the feminine world. Of course, all such activities are as closely A cloud of deep mystery hangs over all important decisions, such as the rise and fall of the hem, the set into endless gowns and wraps. guarded as state secrets. of the sleeve, the position of the waist- line. But, the moment that the veil was lifted, Vogue had everything rec- orded by pen and brush, clearly, com- prehensively, and authentically in every detail. In the next issue, it will all be presented in such a manner that one will feel the very atmosphere of the salons. The salons, at this time, are like art galleries, where each gown is a mas- terpiece. From such a presentation, the likenesses and the influences of the designers go out to the far corners of the world, wherever there ‘are women of taste and culture who know that it is an expression of personality to accept the standards of grace and beauty, set by masters. Vogue puts its best foot forward at the same time, and tells one what boots fashion. A portfolio of shoes, sketched by Benito, puts the Oxford, the opera pump, and the strap slipper in their proper places. A careful perusal of this portfolio would save one from the VOGUE is published on the first and fifteenth of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., Greenwich, Conn. Executive and Publishing Offices, Greenwich, Conn. Entered as second-class matter at the Post Office at Green- wich, Conn., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Editorial Offices—19 West 44th Street, New York, N. Y. Cable Address: Vonork London: Aldwych House, Aldwych, London, W. C. 2, England Cable Address: Volon Paris: 2 rue Edouard VII., Paris, France é Cable Address: Vopar Condé Nast, President; Francis L. Wurzburg, Vice-President ; eS F Beckerle, Treasurer ; M. E. Moore, Secretary; Edna Woolman Chase, Editor; Heyworth Campbell, Art Director; Philippe Ortiz, European Director. Manuscripts must be accompanied by postage for their return if unavailable. Vogue assumes no responsibility for unsolicited contributions except to accord them courteous Ate Contents for September 15, 1925 AUTUMN FORECAST AND MILLINERY Cover Design by Libiszenski Society . . . . . 45-58 Vogue’ s- Eye View of the Mode a a 71 Mrs. Joshua S. Cosden . , Frontis piece The Coming Mode . 2 2. 73-77 Paris and New York Millinery . . . 8-89 Striking Evening Wraps... . . . 90-91 Two New Fur Wraps. . . a? 92-93 Cartier’s Jewels at the Exposition . oy 94 Paris Accessories . . ee E renks, 95 Vionnet Repeats a Success Sa Se, oe 85, Ee AS peer Oy Haw. 2. ww 2 es GED Miss Carlotta Havemeyer . . . . . 100 Editorial: Seeing Eyes «nd Coming Fashions . ig eee eee 101 English Snap- Shots Se re 102 Wisdom for the Hostess. . . .. . 103 Seen on the Stage . : ‘ . 104-105 London Clothes for Children , . 106-107 A Guide to Chic for the Rosy Blonde . 108-109 Seen in the Shops . . 110-111 Vogue Designs for Dressmaking . . 112-120 On Her Dressing-Table. . . .. . 122 Shoes of Other Centuries . . 124 Dressing the Very Young Man. . . 126 Romeo and Juliet in Munich. . . . 134 The Balconies of Venice . . 142-144 East of Venice Is Brioni . . 146-150 The Mode of China . . 156-168 What They Read . Pat . 172 174 Answers to Correspondents . . . 178-184 Wooing the Muses. . . ..... 190 Stocking Lore. . . cess 192 Title Vogue registered in an U.S. Patent Office Copyright, 1925, by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc. Vol. No. 66 No. 6 WHOLE NO. 1271 embarrassment of appearing in a what’s-wrong-with-this-picture situation, by wearing an Oxford, when an Oxford is unmistak- ably the wrong shoe for the occasion and the costume. Getting people into good hahiis is one of Vogue’s prerogatives. So, a collection has been made of impeccable riding-habits for riders who are as young as possible or of the veteran age. No matter how small, every detail and every cut, material, and colour of the habit, is advised upon. The problem of how to buy an inexpensive fur coat is solved accessory, as well as the by the Seen in the Shops department. Vogue has chosen several coats, averag- ing from $200 to $300 in price, for their utility and smartness, and these illustrate the four smartest furs for utility wear this year. Much light has been shed upon the importance of proper illumination in ‘the home in an article that patters oi. in a well-informed way about how to create an atmosphere conducive to sparkling dinner conversation, or one that would ward off at least one cause for divorce. This article is illustrated with photographs of interesting effects. The recent sale of the drawings and etchings by Queen Victoria brought to light many interesting anec- dotes of the Queen and her Prince Consort, who made drawing and etch- ing and the cultivation of the other arts their pastime. All of these and many other things will be in the Early Paris Openings Number, which appears on the news- stands on September 25. wun f TE attention and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless the drawings are sent at the order of Vogue or by arrangement with its New York office. Subseriptions for the United States, Panama Canal Zone, Porto Rico, Hawaii, Canada; and the Philippines, $5 a year in advance. Single copies, 35 cents. For other countries, subscription prices will be furnished on request. Remit by cheque, draft, or postal or “xpress money order. Other re- mittances at sender’s risk. Address all correspondence to Vogue, Greenwich, Conn. Change of Address.—The address of subscribers can be changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please give both the new address and the name and address exactly as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. Four weeks’ notice is required for changing an address or for a new subscription. Printed in the U. S. A. by The Condé Nast Press.

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A 58 piece set of William and Mary fatware—enough to serve six people ag oe $185. As illustrated above, 771 Service Plates, six, $240.00—716 Candle Sticks, 2 pairs, $132.00—769 Individual Nut Dishes, six, $35.00—734 Salt Dishes, three, $13.50—744 Pepper Shakers, three, $31.50— 747-774 Centerpiece $115.00. | Nhe Daughter of your Daughters Daughter N 2025 how will she set her table for six? With just the same good taste reflected in this table of yours today. And with the very same pieces of Treasure Solid Silver. ASSO —_ This particular William and Mary set of eighty-two pieces illustrated above, including the Solid Silver Service Plates, Candle Sticks, Centerpiece, Salts and Peppets, etc., as well as a complete service of flat silver for six, costs but $755.00. Over a hundred years each piece costs an average of nine cents a year! A century of correct silvering inspired by the immortal William and Mary Period design. It carries on your desire for fine things to your daughter—and her daughter—and her daugh- ter. And in 2025 the only change is the beauty which a hundred years may add. Brochures of either the William and Mary or the Mary II will be sent at your request. ROGERS, LUNT & BOWLEN CO. Greasure 53 KENWOOD STREET 90.. Silversmiths ~. Creators of “Distinctive Tableware GREENFIELD wa. MASSACHUSETTS VOGUE SS == — —. —S SSeS SS =. ty == : Se —st > ——S Se Ss SS =

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“OGUE September 15, 1925 NUIT ANUULUUUNHLLUT A unique decoration for evening shoes that is meeting with Paris favour has Hermes-like wings of gold kid on each side of the heel and a gold kid strap that crosses over the ankle. This may be used on slippers of any colour HE ensemble costume has often been discussed in previous issues of Vogue. Its importance has been stressed, its chic has been analysed. Now, it is considered again, from a new point of view. For this ensemble costume is, indubitably, the most sig- nificant phase of the new mode. Never in the history of fashion has the perfection of every detail been so much stressed and so perfectly carried out as it is by the chic woman to-day. HE woman who achieves the successful costume brings vision to her selection. She visualizes garments together, apart, and in relation to herself. She takes account of the rules that read—consider, first, the silhouette; consider one’s colouring; consider the shape of one’s head, the length and character of one’s neck. This woman knows her best points and accentuates them; she realizes her bad points and seeks to conceal them. She never aims for an effect that she can not achieve. And she never varies a slightest detail from the feeling of the mode. Her hat, shoes, gloves, stockings, hand-bag, jewellery, scarf, or fur, even special lingerie—all these are given the same minute consideration as the coat and dress. The hat is not only right for the neck-line of the dress, but for the collar of the coat, as well. The slippers harmonize as completely with the frock by itself as when it ac- companies the coat, so that nothing may disturb the perfection of harmony, no matter in what version the ensemble appears. ITH the appearance of every new mode, there is, inevita- bly, a multitude of details to be noted. Some of them are experimental and may or may not become important in the trend of fashion. Some of them are interesting only as a part of the particular costume on which they are seen. Some of them are definitely bad. A few of them will, unquestionably, become the distinguishing marks of a chic frock or a coat of the season, re- peated again and again in the new models, high-lights in the mode. T IS these few details that a smart woman must discover, but their discovery is not always a simple matter among the multi- tude that pass before her. Even between the covers of Vogue, where the number is comparatively small, the novice may be 71 A UMNO A new millinery garniture that is also effective as a shoulder or hip buckle is of crystal or diamonds, with a carved sapphire, carnelian, or jade plaque in the centre. Broadtail is widely used for millinery, and trailing feathers are chic puzzled as to which point—the flare or the sleeve, the collar or the waist-line, the fabric or the colour—is chiefly responsible for the chic that gave it enough importance to be selected as a represent- ative of a new mode. For such a woman’s benefit, Vogue will look over the issue and point out some of its own reasons for choosing the models that are sketched. N page 73, the coat illustrates three important points—the use of fur at the top instead of the bottom of winter wraps; the flare that gives fulness to the winter silhouette; the return of the muff. The coats on page 77 repeat the flare, differently placed, and the position of the fur trimming, and—in addition— illustrate the stole-like line that is very new (shown in the coat at the left) and the shirring and puffing of fur. These same de- tails will be found on other coats throughout the issue, for they are the features that will lift a coat into a position of distinction, this winter. ROM pages 74 and 75, one may discover the details that make an evening dress smart at the moment. Motion and elaboration of cut are the first points to be noted; then, elaboration of embroidery or beading; and, lastly, flares, uneven hem-lines, and an up-in-front line at the waist. The gowns on page 76 verify these points. ISING to the question of millinery, an important fabric is broadtail, used for the Agnés hat on page 78 and again for the model on page 86. When such a hat is worn with a broadtail coat or scarf to relate it to the costume, nothing could be smarter. Trailing feathers—as in the model at the top of page 79 and the one on page 87—are also good. And draped velvet hats, hats suggesting modernistic art, and felt hats with striking diamond ornaments are all wise choices. Many of the new felts are softer, more lustrous and pliable than those of the past season. Agnes uses a new long-haired felt called melusine that resembles angora and is very chic. It is illustrated on page 83. Several dia- mond ornaments are also illustrated on the hats in this issue, for these are distinctly a feature of the new mode. THE EDITOR

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VOGUE Steichen ona JS CospDtn | ) Rf a | ~~ M

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\~2 September 15, 1925 “VOGUE: » COMING MOD Vogue Predicts aWinter Silhouette ‘Tis straight silhouette is dead. The fluid. flaring one that was shown last spring settles into an assured place in the heavier fabrics of winter, the woollens and the velvets. This means that it becomes more definite in out- line, that shifting draperies and flying appendages will give way to more volume and bell-like curves. The straight drop from the underarm to the hip is a vanishing phenomenon, and in its place will be a line more influenced by the natural figure. That portion of a frock which could be dismissed formerly with a single lancing of the scissors promises to become the concentration point of its grace and beauty. For the rhythmical column of the body is no longer to be ignored. Rather, in some of the CURVES FLARES MOLYNEUX This coat of brown wool with large revers and a collar of nutria has the side flare and the move- ment in the back obtained by circular fulness that disappears in pleats, giving a silhouette that will be prominent in the mode for the coming winter. Molyneux is among the French couturiers who Sponsor muffs, this season 73 L AJ of newest and best dresses, it will be accentuated by a rippling, fluid, Greek treatment. The result ex- pressed in costume terms has a feeling approach- ing a Greek princesse bodice. Thus, where to place the waist-line ceases to be a burning ques- tion, for while a great many dresses will not be princesse, there will be no definitely appointed place to divide a bodice from a skirt. The waist- line will be put high or low, or wherever it will best glorify the lithe suppleness of the body be- neath. The corseted figure will be more taboo than ever, but upon basic slimness will be superimposed cascades of fulness. puffs, bows, horizontal bodice draperies, and bodices that blouse frankly over slender, defined hips. In a word, though the

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surface of a gown may show exaggeration, the basic cut is of an ingenious simplicity. The means employed for this surface exaggera- ticn will be of two sorts. One, and the more familiar one, is fulness introduced by godets, circular cuts, and gathers. Box pleats, too, will be important. The other is a fulness which will be manipulated to emphasize itself rather than to fall in soft abstraction. The surreption de- manded of bulk by the straight silhouette is abandoned. It will openly gather its forces, and, in the treatment of it, couture will once again become one of the arts. FULNESS Front fulness, following the up-in-front, down- in-back movement, will persist. Back fulness has an assured future. And fulness will certainly be, in a few instances, concentrated at the sides. However, harmony of line will be so potent in ihe costumes of the winter season that under no circumstance will all of these types of fulness appear in the same ensemble. Wéseopescsecroncus VOGUE VIONNET (Left) The Greek, flaring, princesse line, suggesting the rhythmical column of the body, is typical of the new evening gowns and is illustrated in this black net frock with a modern rose appliqué design in two shades of American beauty LANVIN (Below) Great elaboration is seen in embroidered jewelled trimming and especially on evening dresses. This one is of gleaming lamé studded with pearls, and green chiffon is used for the band at the bottom and the silver-edged, sleeveless coat ; 3 a "Sg Sis Palpiier a r= ce

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ON A 2 ETT 7 a September 15, 1925 JEAN PATOU (Right) Two important fashion points are illus- trated by this sleeveless evening gown of yellow chiffon velvet—the diagonal draping gathered un- der a huge circular back cascade, and the very deep V décolletage, also at the back (Below, left) The up-in-front line is emphasized by many models and has increasing importance. On this gown of heavy, deep red crépe, seen at Biarritz, the line is given by a wrapped girdle over which the bodice blouses slightly LUCIEN LELONG (Below, right) Here, the curved up-in-front line is obtained by lines of the green and rose embroidery and by the band on the tunic. The frock is of beige georgette crépe, the band and underslip are of moss-green velvet Cut will be paramount. The music of the shears will be heard throughout the land. Not only will entire bodices be cut into mosaic-like designs of modern inspiration, but lines will de- pend materially on intricacy of cut. This prom- ises to take the place of drapery in many in- stances. The shortest distance between two poin‘s will be relegated to mathematical uses. Trim- mings and incrustations, neck-lines, belts, yokes, and hem-lines will be cut in various odd and un- even ways. SKIRT LENGTHS Skirts will continue to be short, and day skirts will have a rippling hem-line because of their fulness. Length will often be introduced into the evening silhouette by the uneven hem-line, which will be an outstanding characteristic of evening gowns. This unevenness will be the result of scallops, points, or cascading fulness, rather than the soft draperies of summer. Neck-lines continue to be varied. The vogue for the bateau has passed, and décolletage will be ~ wn

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76 sess SSOOLOC DRESSES SCOR SissaOCI8NeS I corctneeeemnentereenmeeecata THREE MODELS SHOWING THE VOGUE OF UNEVEN HEM-LINES of a more formal type. The V, both narrow and wide, the round, and the oval remain firmly en- trenched. ‘There will be more dresses with shoulder-straps and the straight under-the-arm cut. Some square necks will appear. Back dé- colletage will continue low. Irregularly cut and crnamented neck-lines will be much seen. Bedices will be more ornamented and attract more attention to themselves by horizontal drap- eries, embroidery, and intricate and sophisticated cut. The copiest pirates will encounter difficulties in the new bodices. Sleeves will be important, and they will be the stamping-ground of the scissors. They will be characterized by invention and diversity. Most of them will be long. Some will be very long, wrink- ling over the forearm, or, tight over the forearm and wrinkling above. Others will be full, some- times above a tight wrist. Many will have en- crusted trimming. Evening gowns will continue to be sleeveless. Yokes and set-in belts will still be good and will often have curved and scalloped edges, as these afford excellent opportunity for the grace- ful introduction of fulness in various guises. Jumpers and tunics have become an _ integral CALLOT (Left, above) This gown is typical of the intri- cately cut incrustations and subtly toned embroi- deries that are to characterize the winter frocks. It is of green satin. The appliqué is of grey satin, and the embroidery is in mauve, green, and grey-blue LOUISEBOULANGER (Middle, above) On this gown of mousseline de soie in ombre-pink, back fulness that falls in a double cascade is superimposed upon a slim slip at a point below the hips. The manner in which the fulness is manipulated is significant of the new mode (Right, above) One of the most prophetic frocks seen at Biarritz is this of pale green velvet em- broidered in pearls. The soft, deep blouse over hips slightly defined by the skilfully wrapped, deep ribbon girdle is new and, unquestionably, has a chic future part of the most variable fashions. Jumpers will endure for sports wear, and long tunics with more line elaboration will be seen in more formal frocks. Beaded and embroidered dresses will be im- portant. They will be in more arresting designs than those of the past, designs that are jewelled and brilliantly coloured and easy to follow. In them will be found the closest approach to the straight silhouette, but even these will have many curves, and fulness will be introduced in the skirts. Coats will be full and three-quarters length, in the majority of cases, and there will be some straight coats. Often, they will be of plain ma- terial or have a small all-over pattern that has the feeling of a plain fabric. But these plain coats will throw off restraint when it comes to linings, which will have modern designs in weave or colour or both. Many linings will be of fur, often worked in pattern. Coats will be fur- trimmed. The line of coats will flare in back or front, if only slightly, with fulness obtained by godets, gathers, or circular cut. There will be set-in, curved and scalloped belts and often an up- in-front, down-in-back movement. Seldom will oer Tat y eS Pa «1

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September 15, 1925 THREE DIFFERENT AND SMART EXAMPLES either the back or the front be perfectly plain. The redingote influence is extinct. Capes will be seen, particularly for evening, where it is quite possible ‘hat they may share honours with coats. Ensembles continue in increasing numbers, if this is possible. Dresses with coats or capes to match will be seen morning, noon, and night. Furs will be extensively used and with great invention. They will be intricately cut and worked in novel ways. The smartest position of fur will be at the top of a costume, for hat, or hat trimming, coat collars, and cuffs. However, the fashion of cutting the coat length above a band of fur on the bottom of a dress of the same colour as the coat will persist. Fur collars and cuffs will be characterized by complicated cut and broken outline. Dyed and bleached furs promise well. Muffs will be shown, worn, and carried. Fabrics exhibit a wealth of design. The small all-over patterns that give the feeling of plain materials—especially in the woollens—will enjoy popularity. Velvet will lead among all ma- terials, both for day and evening wear. Lamé OF SKIRT FULNESS (Left, above) The fulling and puffing of fur promise to be very good for winter. Successful examples of each of these interesting ways of handling fur appear on this velvet coat, seen at Vichy. The low back fulness is also an important fashion feature CHANEL (Middle, above) This black taffeta model is an interesting example of skilful cut and of the bell- like silhouette with a line from the underarm to the hip that slightly defines the figure. Rows of small tucks appear at the bottom and edge the circular inserts (Right, above) A fur-trimmed coat of mehari (one of the new woollens with a small all-over pattern that gives the effect of a plain fabric when seen from a distance) was seen at Aix-les-Bains. The low, curved bodice is very smart above the skirt fulness will be much seen, and there will be many bro- cades of youthful design, treated in a youthful manner. Combinations of different materials will continue to be used. Embroideries will be elaborate and colorful, in beads and thread. They will be Oriental and modern, in all-over and motif designs. They will be used both for entire dresses and as trimmings. Fringes and metal laces will also be used. Colours are here to stay. The burst of hues that came in with summer will be carried over into the winter. The browns, particularly the reddish browns, the blues, green, and bois- de-rose (despite its great summer popularity) are among those that promise to lead the colour parade. Beige we have always with us. White promises to be good for evening Black with fur will be smart, and black will be worn by some chic women who wish to set themselves apart in the midst of a world of colour. The natural tones in the woollens are predicted. The fur shades, especially in coat linings, are scheduled for favour. The velvets and lamés will appear in new combinations of subtle colour.

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78 VOGUE Steichen PARIS SAYS A FIRST WORD about EARLY WINTER HATS HE new hats tend to more diversity and to slightly more elaboration. The one most characteristic thing about them is ther softness of contour and surface. Their diversity lies, in a great measure, in the fact that four materials—velvet, felt, grosgrain, and satin—promise to be much seen, in contrast to the solitary felt of spring and the felt and straw of summer. The velvet invasion that began a few months ago, in bindings, ribbons, and brims, has steadily gained in magnitude, until, for autumn and early winter, velvet leads among the hat fabrics. Une less all signs fail, this is going to be a velvet AGNES The toque and the turban vie for honours in the newest shapes of Paris hats. This high-crowned toque, characteristic of Agnés models, is of shaved lamb treated in the modernistic manner, a trend that is emphasized in the millinery mode this season. The colours—black, brown, beige, and grey—are also a point of note, since grey is much seen in combination with the brown family. The muff is in the same design as the hat; posed by Madame Agnés imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue winter, with the modistes endorsing it whole- heartedly and the silk houses showing velvets printed, cut-out, and plain for frocks and coats. With the velvet mode, there must be, by the very nature of the fabric, a certain richness of line and treatment. In addition, satin is a softening influence in hats, and the stiffness of grosgrain is, after all, only a slight firmness on the part of ribbon, the most yielding of fabrics. Also, the felts, finding themselves in this com- pany, are trying to be as pliable as possible, and the new ones, most of them, have a noticeable velours cast of countenance. One, feutre soleil, is felt raised to the height of luxuriousness. f, e - 9 of tri cre It um wh anc sen ust of I —H she ops ent! like to t are abl soft tigh 1 trim and mos mov

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] é t ee Sa) September 15, 192: ROSE DESCAT (Above) This green taupé felt hat has a cascade of cross in two tones of green, a smart type of trimming made by stringing five or six sprays of cross together; silver fox from Grunwaldt; two hats posed by Louba Kainarsky It has a silky finish that resembles both satin und broadcloth. Agnés uses a felt shape in which the crown is more or less ordinary felt and the brim is a long-haired variety that re- sembles angora. The name of this felt is mel- usine, and the model is photographed at the top of page 83. However, the extreme plainness of recent hats —it might almost be calied severity—can not be shelved with a simple gesture. Nothing devel- ops by a surer process of logic than the appar- ently unreasonable trend of fashion. Women like the tight little, bare little hats, and they cling to them. Thus, the new diversity and elaboration are decidedly restrained, and the most notice- able results are the casual elegance and the softening of line that have crept into these same tight little hats. There is no straining after effects, no bizarre tr:mming. What is done is accomplished quietly and without fuss. It might be said that the most successful hats and the ones most in the movement will be those that achieve simplicity Steichen MODELS IMPORTED BY JAY-THORPE ROSE DESCAT (Left) The pale green felt of this model has the extreme suppleness that characterizes the new hats and is trimmed with a band of green grosgrain ribbon. Its shape is typical of the smart medium sized hat of the season through complication. This complication comes by several channels. One is the fabrics; them- selves. Their extreme adaptability has tempted milliners to manipulate them in all sorts of ways. Very important in all the showings are the cutting, twisting, folding, and draping of brims, even crowns, as in the hat from Maria Guy sketched at the lower left on page 85, with a crown draped from the left side of the brim to fall under the right side. The Reboux hat of grosgrain and satin at the lower right on page 81 is an example of two-fabric manipulation. A!so, there is a marked tendency to treat these millinery materials in mosaic motif—that is, to cut them into small, irregu'ar shapes, such as diamonds, squares, and triangles, and fit them together again, so that one finds many hats with a broken surface. An example of this is the Georgette velvet hat at the upper left on page 84. The modern art influence is strongly felt in these designs and in incrustations that create this same effect of broken surfaces. Applied bands of felt to match on velvet, of contrasting

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$0 VOGUE MARTHE COLLOT Madame Alexandre Singer wears this typically smart hat of black satin, close to the head in front and loosely draped in back felt on felt, ribbon on velvet and felt—these are conspicuous examples of the latter. Le Monnier has a broken surface made by sewing together tiny rolls of velvet. As for shapes, the small close-fitting one that follows and reveals completely the line of the head persists. The hat that hides completely the contour of the head is also seen, and some very smart models define sharply one contour and hide another, as in the Marthe Collot hat sketched at the upper left on this page, where the wide satin ribbon is drawn tightly over the front of the head and draped loosely at the back. Brims vary amazingly within a small width. They are short in back and longer in front, like a very much curtailed poke bonnet. They turn up in back. They turn up sharply and generously in front and are negligible in back. hey roll up on one side and down on the other. In short, they are infinitely varied within their size. One finds these small hats in perfect flow- ering at Reboux. The newest shapes are the toque and the turban, which appear in many guises and which are ideal hats for wear with high fur collars. One of the important toques is the very high, plain one, such as the Agnés model photographed on page 78, in which the fabric mosaic (shaved lamb) is the only trimming. A typical turban is the velvet and satin Marthe Collot model REBOUX A black satin hat trimmed with a wist is a chic example of the up-in- front line MARTHE COLLOT A clever use of two fabrics is shown in a toque of black satin draped with black velvet and twisted red velvet ; imported by Bendel that is illustrated at the upper right on this page. Although the greater number of hats shown are small, the well-defined summer trend towards the large hat has made itself felt, and, at nearly all the houses, medium-sized and large models of a more formal type are to be found, notably in velvet and satin. Some of the most successful are of velvet treated like mosaic, or made of wide satin ribbon. They are, for the most part, self-trimmed very simply, either with a draping of the material, as in the Maria Guy model sketched at the lower right on page 85, or with bands, loops, or bows of the material. When these large hats are not self-trimmed, they are usually felt and velvet combinations. Although trimming is used sparingly, it is used consistently. That which follows an up-in- front, down-on-the-sides (often below the brim) line is, perhaps, the smartest. The Camille Roger model in velvet and feathers that appears at the lower right on page 84 is trimmed in this manner. Cut and manipulation of brim and self- trimming also frequently follow this line. The down-at-the-side line often appears alone, by means of drooping cock feathers or several sprays strung together. The Rose Descat hat, at the top on page 79, has such a cascade of cross in two shades of green. The fact that it is placed on the high side of the crown is worthy of note. Often, each spray is in a different colour.

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age. are the all of rin sful of art, ing del vith hen are -in- im ) ille ars this elf- Che by oral rat, of t is of yur. September 15, 1925 Steichen (Below) The large brooch is smart on small hats, as on this black felt tricorne, high crowned and narrow brimmed; from Thurn REBOUX A beige felt hat has the upstanding side ear that continues to be a smart note of the mode; from Nicole; posed by Halles Stiles Bows, knots, loops, and ears of self-material or of grosgrain ribbon, velvet, or satin are the trimmings most seen. Bows and knots seem the special prerogative of large hats. At least, that is where they reach their highest development. Georgette ties bows that make one gasp with delight (one of this designer’s best bows appears on the velvet hat at the upper left on page 84) and Maria Guy does ravishing things with the simple tying of two ribbon ends. Satin and velvet loops flourish on felts, sometimes in a cas- cade arrangement. Ears are best on small felts, such as those of Reboux and Agnés. Since their first appearance, a year ago last spring, these ears have been bobbing up and out on hats, and their creators still seem to be able to find new places and angles for them. The ones that stick straight up, or down, are among the smartest just now, as the upstanding ear on the Reboux felt hat illustrated at the top of this page. Maria Guy uses some fur as trimming. Le Monnier employs small squares, triangles, and inserts of wood mosaic, resembling veneer, in the manner of the trimming of the velours hat at the upper right'on page 84. The designs are very modern. Rose Descat makes hats of velvet in which the trimming is made by pressing the velvet in such a way that it forms bands in the pile of the velvet. One of these hats is photo- eraphed at the lower right on page 83. (Below) Black satin and grosgrain ribbon are combined for this close- fitting hat, with cascades falling at the sides; from Nicole 81

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(Below) Madame Agnés wears a high-crowned black panne hat with a tall silver buckle, the width of the satin ribbon, designed by Puyforcat Steichen AGNES Soft plush felt is a chic medium for this turned-up-in-the-front hat in orange with a_ silver ornament; two hats posed by Halles Stiles (Below) “Feutre soleil,’ a fabric- like felt, fashions a hat with cars at the sides and almost no back brim; ornament from Marchak et Linzeler VOGUE eee

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z § ¢ ¥ b i Hf September 15, 1925 AGNES (Below) An unusual hat of purple rabbit has a high crown and a wide felt band; posed by Halles Stiles; imported by Saks-Fifth Avenue Steichen AGNES Agnés introduces a crown of chif- fon felt with a brim of long-haired felt like angora inarosy grey model; from Nicole; posed by Halles Stiles ROSE DESCAT (Below) The pile of the velvet of a bois-de-rose hat is pressed into bands, a motif often used by Rose Descat; posed by Louba Kainarsky 83

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PAAR TS cE a. « € 5 : GEORGETTE LE MONNIER A mosaic velvet hat has putty coloured A brick-red velours hat has the typical Le ribbon tied ine famous Georgette bows Monnicr trimming of mosaic wood blocks ores ? Reel Ve) ss X GEORGETTE CAMILLE ROGER A feather and velvet hat shows the impor- The interest of a royal-blue felt hat lies ; b tant up-in-front and down-at-side — lines in the intricate cut of its tiny brim

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oS EEN SRT ue Raye September 15, 1925 MARIA GUY Noisette velvet and felt, a smart combination, fashion this hat draped from left to right MODELS IMPORTED BY BENDEL (Above, middle) A black felt hat has four strategically placed black satin loops This black satin hat depends for its lines on the skilful folding of the back brim

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MODELS ON THESE TWO PAGES FROM BENDEL Fur used as a fabric is a smart millinery note from Paris. In this hat and scarf, broadtail is worked in different directions to give the ef- fect of trimming, a trend much accented in new millinery, where the manipulation of the fabric often provides the decoration. This motif also suggests the modernistic touch that is one of the distinct tenden- cies of the mode, while the up-in-front line is typically smart BROADTAIL IS WORKED BOTH WAYS FOR GREATER CHIC

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September 15, 19 PROB re This charming hat of velvet establishes its chic by the black ostrich feather that comes across the crown and ends in a graceful cascade ver one shoulder, for cascade feathers are a feature among the new millinery developments. The position of the feather atop the crown gives it additional smartness. A hat of this graceful, gracious type is preeminently suited for the mode of afternoon INANE pS BIR PORT ERATE: NR tit ge pee ALEX CASCADES THE GRACE OF FEATHERS INTO AFTERNOON

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ROSE DESCAT (Below) This smart close hat of velours in beige has scarcely any brim to speak of, but what there is, is turned up in front and scal- loped in a rounded outline at the back WAG GG es SN, Nickolas Muray — ROSE DESCAT The point of distinction in a bois-de- rose velours model is the effect obtained in front and back by cutting and cross- ing the brim. The crown is folded in the same pointed line TOPMOST ih TAV OU Ss ARE THE NEW VELOURS ROSE DESCAT (Below) A side view of the hat above shows the mould- ed head-line and flat back that are typical of one, of the most important new trends of the millinery mode this season

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H

tee oR <A NRY t

~ September 15, 1925

MODELS ON THESE TWO PAGES FROM JAY-THORPE ROSE DESCAT This light green velours hat has a band of self- material folded over from the back to the side. With it, Miss Brady wears a dia- mond circle ornament

REBOUX The draped toque of supple black silk velvet is a Reboux contribution to the formal autumn mode. A_ diamond ornament is the only decoration used on this type of hat

— Nickolas Muray WS = ~~ 89

POSED BY ALICE BRADY THE DRAPED TOQUE IS A PARIS HEAD-LINER

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Ae. MODEL FROM BERGDORF GOODMAN S H ININ G FA B R I te S E; O M }, 1. O This sumptuous evening wrap is of jade-green crépe romain brocaded in diagonally running gold lines. The lines of the coat are straight, as in an afternoon coat, and the luxurious effect is obtained by the exquisite colouring and rich fabric, topped by a deep collar of grey squirrelette and cuffs of the fur. The lining of green satin is bordered with the fur S P E N D & H E W I NTE R EVE N I N G

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September 15, 1925 THE GOLDEN AGE OF THE WRAP CLAIMS THE FLARE AND JABOT 91 MODEL FROM BERGDORF GOODMAN Beauty in the form of gold brocade with a design of birds and leaves in delicate tones of rose and mauve goes into the mak- ing of this evening wrap, which fits snugly about the hips, fastening with a gold button and flaring in godets. It is lined with tangerine coloured velvet, which shows in the jabot, and trimmed with beige cross fox in luxurious profusion

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MODEL FROM REVILLON IRERES (Left) The graceful, rippling flare in this coat of mink is achieved by the skil- ful working of the soft skins. A shawl collar and wide cuffs are further points of distinction and add elegance to the coat natural the ove of a sli This takes th over-pop border ¢ EASTERN MINK CREATES A NEW RIPPLE OF INTEREST

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ES eful, this is skil- the hawl cuffs ts of add coal on RR Tarn sR te So ee eee gree! tara Heo 9 Ff aaa et TE September 15, 1925 MODEL FROM GUNTHER The long border of natural lynx begins as a collar and extends down to the hem on the overlapping front of a slim nutria coat. This stole-like line takes the place of the over-popularized hem border of last season THE FUR BORDER LEAVES THE HEM FOR HIGHER PLACES

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94 VOGUE - Stee ye g | | A large carved emerald is Square diamonds, alternating inserted between circles of with rose coral, make the il black onyx and oval motifs upper bracelet, and black fe of coral and diamonds in enamel, diamonds, coral, and 4 this brilliant new bracelet round emeralds the lower R (Left) Cartier sponsors this new jewelled ornament to e outline the front opening of bf the bodice. It is attached a at the top with a pin clasp a and may be fastened at 4 intervals to the corsage with needle and _ thread a wahoo i aOR eo CARTIER DISPLAYS | eu NEW JEWELS AT THE Small tulips of coral and circles of pearls end in an PARTS EXPOSITION Two tassels of pearls and onyx are joined by emeralds, coral, and diamonds to a platinum pin with cabochon emeralds and diamonds enormous emerald surround- ed by pearls and diamonds in a bracelet of Egyptian design

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September 15, 1925 95 PARIS ACCESSORIES ARE IMPORTANT POIRET (Left) Earrings in a . ‘ A Right) A : three tones of gold— IN ] H E NEW MO DE ae ae Poires is of gold, entirely flat MODELS ON THIS PAGE and cut in leaf-like IMPORTED BY BON WIT TELLER points green, yellow, and red —have a centre line of marcasite (Middle, above) A_ belt iS of beige leather edged with a gold thread motif 4 fastens with a flat leather F bow instead of a buckle ft Ls F iy if, A striking envelope bag of ocean- a green moire has gold piping as ' its only concession to trimming ey (Below) A conventional motif (Below) Emerald-green moire The yellow-green tapestry-like of fruit is applied to the red 4 is cut in narrow strips on this fabric of this bag is decorated suéde background of this bag . hand-bag and used over gold with multicoloured flowers by incrustations of suede in leather, with the gold showing ‘ tones of black, brown, and gold between the bands of green

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VOGUE f§ 96 is i § VIONNET The long and short of the story ; of this Vionnet frock of shaded 7 blue crépe georgette is that the p irregular hem is the strong . note of the frock and the mo- . ment. The complicated fulness : in the skirt is unusual and . ; ; b t] interesting. Flowers made of 1 - narrow bands of the material . : ec cover the long bodice and : : ase i" li band the flowing sleeves in : . / g ; VIONNET REPEATS HER SUCCESS IN THE SHADED GOWN §

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UE story traded it the trong > 110- ness and le of terial and eves N Conn ee ee September 15, 1925 97 VIONNET The genius of Vionnet is ex- pressed in the complicated cut of her gowns and the classic simplicity of their lines. Shad- ed frocks were her creation, and she repeats her success in this gown of shaded rose crépe romain with circular panels on each hip. Further distinction lies in the knotted sleeves made in one piece with the yoke THE FLARE BRINGS NEW RHYTHM TO CLASSIC LINES

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NEWPORT EWPORT has never been in better form than it was this season. Nothingcan touch it. No wonder that it has become the citadel of American society, for it is the gayest and most amusing place that one can imagine, and it has a character and a charm distinctly its own! It is unlikely that these will be duplicated in any other place, for only in Newport could one expect to apply the standards and mode of life that are the accepted thing at this resort. There will never be another Bailey’s Beach, with its finely raked sand covered with beach umbrellas, rearing their colourful heads to the sun like flowers in a garden bed and sheltering groups of little beach chairs with the names of Vanderbilt, Astor, Goelet, Wilson, Bradley, Whitehouse, Fahnestock, and others equally notable, ar- ranged each morning in neat little rows to await the arrival of their owners at twelve o’clock, the hour at Bailey’s when the daily Newport levee takes place. At least once in her life, every great lady must be photographed by the waiting camera men at the entrance to Bailey’s Beach, if she would have any fame for beauty or social success ‘to pass down to her children’s children. The amera men, like flies, have found the spot where Seales? is sweetest, for the women at Bailey's Beachxare so beautiful and so well dressed that it is doubtful if the sight can be matched any- where else in-the world. MO iWiMIiU@Ioisr gs Und a WO ood and Underwood Mrs. Cornelius H. Tangeman was snapped at Bailey’s Beach in the elaborate toilette of the chic woman who goes to the beach at the hour before luncheon \ There are two. kinds of beauties at Bailey’s Beach, the bathing beauties and the gazing beau- ties. The bathing beauties go there to swim and walk about the beach in quite as lovely clothes as those worn by the gazing beauties, who go to see what the others are doing, hold court in their chairs under the umbrellas, or stroll up and down from group to group. It is always a great sight, but it was an unusually fine sight, even for Newport, over the week-end of the Church- Vanderbilt wedding, when Bailey’s Beach was so crowded that it was jokingly called ‘Coney Island.” Although every woman in Newport who went to the Vanderbilt wedding wore her smartest clothes, the scene on the lawn after the ceremony was no more wonderful than the col- lection of women on the beach that Saturday AS 5 EEN BY HIM before lunch. They were all so elaborately dressed, as is the custom of the women who go to Bailey’s on Saturday and Sunday, that it was not a ques- tion of a better dress, but just another dress when it came time for the wedding. The beautiful Mrs. Ogden Mills, junior, in a canary-yellow chiffon dress with a large yellow hat and her lovely pearls, was one of the most strik- ing women even in that smartly dressed crowd. The list of beauties at Newport was embarrass- ingly large, for one had only to turn one’s head to find such women as Mrs. Norman Whitehouse in a magenta chiffon dress with a wide printed border in black and a large black hat, Mrs. Williams Burden in a very striking dress of chartreuse-green with a hat in an unusual shade of green and an orange-and-purple flowered parasol, and Mrs. James Denison Sawyer, who was formerly Mrs. Howard G. Cushing, in a white dress edged with scarlet. The Princess Matchabelli startled even Newport in her yellow dress and an enormous yellow felt sombrero jauntily turned up at one side, which became her uncommonly well. Mrs. Frederick Vanderbilt, who -was staying with her niece, Mrs. James Van Alen, had on one of the smartest dresses to be seen on the beach; a combination at once dignified and extremely modern. It was a two-piece costume in gun-metal colour; that is, a blackish grey, with reget ree Sinn De eg GET Se] (Rig Leon phot hous Wedded dt LL dldlcda Lc LL ll ldlllddccddddddddcdddldidddddddddy smal blou brig! oran taw! love! was dres was hat velv mate M ever ohir almc lar, crys a4 rout on t and and M dres Van land est a lil colla

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p & & September 15, 1925 (Right) Mr. and Mrs. Leonard M. Thomas were photographed with their house guests at Newport Gn IL. Gu = 7 4 SASS Wide Worid Photos Mrs. Sylvanus Stokes, junior, is always one of the smartly dressed women at Newport, and each season she gives one of the jolliest parties. This year, it was a “barn dance” with every one in costume NEWPORT small white dots all over it. The edge of the blouse, the collar, and cuffs were trimmed with bright orange-red and white. Her hat was orange-red with tawny flowers, and her parasol tawny with the flowers in orange-red. Another lovely costume, both youthful and enchanting, was worn by Miss Priscilla Allen; the two-piece dress was of pale grey-blue, the slip underneath was of flame colour, which gave an opal effect, the hat was of flame horsehair with a band of flame velvet, and she wore a flame coloured scarf to match, Mauve was very popular at Newport. While every one wore it occasionally, Mrs. Herbert shipman had the exclusive fame of wearing it almost continually. One evening dress in particu- lar, a purple one entirely embroidered in mauve crystal beads, was, in the slang of the moment a “knock-out,” and, even when she varied her routine of mauve and wore an orange-pink dress on the beach, she combined it with a mauve hat and an amusing flowered scarf in pink, mauve, and periwinkle-blue. Mrs. Raymond Baker wore a mauve crépe dress with pleated ruffles on the day of the Vanderbilt wedding, and Mrs. William Rhine- lander Stewart, junior, was a sight for the great- est portrait-painter of the eighteenth century in a lilac crépe dress with a pleated white organdie collar falling from the neck of the dress to the International Newsreel lll ZZ yyy ddlldldlddddd: MMM WMA ddechhhlecdiddsibiiiddddddlddddddddliddddddddddddyyyyyy//UITTZ!"!"§ Idd A : lddldldd Ve MMO AMM MW HH Underwood and Underwood Dressed alike in knitted sports suits and chic felt hats are the Misses Mary and Millicent Ham- mond, popular members of the younger set at Newport waist-line, and a deep violet hat. She carried a little purple linen parasol, no bigger than her hat. These parasols were the fad at Newport this year, and they gave the effect of a second hat, held ‘n the hand, while the first was worn on the head, for big hats were in the majority and the paresols were the same size. Even with all these marvellously dressed women to divert one’s eye, Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt, second, created great interest at the beach one morning in a boldly spotted black-and-white dress, bordered around the bottom, up the front, and around the sleeves with a wide band of bright pink crépe and worn with pink kid slippers polka- dotted in white and a very smart close black hat. In the group of bathing beauties, Mrs. Sawyer carried off the honours with a canary-yellow bathing-suit bordered with a tiny black fringe, 99 (Left) The Marquis de Narros is at Mrs. Thom- as’s right and the Duke de Santa Mauro at her left SSNS . WOOV SENG rwood and Underwood Unde Mrs. John Wanamaker, the former Pauline Disston, is one of the pop- ular younger members of the New- port colony. She is passing this season as the guest of Mrs. Win- throp Boardman, of New York AS S E E N BY THE CAMERA with which she wore black stockings and no bandanna or bathing-cap. Her lovely auburn hair was allowed to be the crowning and altogether necessary touch to complete the picture. Young Mrs. Ned Post wore a very chic and becoming bathing-suit of coral-pink crépe, and her mother, Mrs. William Goadby Loew, wore a very smart and rather novel high-necked bathing-suit of black satin-striped crépe with long sleeves and very demure cuffs and collar of white linen. Little Marion Wilson had a light blue bathing- suit with gingham knickers and a pale blue bandanna to match, and Miss Marion Wickes wore a_bathing-suit that every one dubbed “Joseph’s coat,’ for it was amusingly knitted with squares of every colour, and nothing that is unusual is ever missed by those who watch from under the umbrellas at Bailey’s Beach. She and her sister were the great beauties of the Newport season. At the opening night of the Embassy Club, Miss Fanny Wickes wore a very full, long black taffeta dress with one big flower on the skirt and a border of crystals and little mirrors that finished off the drooping line of the shouders. She looked like a picture in a costume of the days of our grand- mothers. It would be ridiculous to attempt to describe all the clothes and all the pretty women at (Continued on page 170)

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Steicnen MISS CARLOTTA HAVEMEYER Miss Carlotta Havemeyer is one of the charming daughters of Mr. and Mrs. Henry O. Havemeyer, of “Mountain Side Farm,” at Mahwah, New Jersey. She is the granddaughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Theodore A. Havemeyer, of New York and Newport. Miss Havemeyer and her sister, Miss Florence Havemeyer, who made her début last season, spent the summer with their parents at Newport VOGUE

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September 15, 1925 SEEING EYES AND 101 COMING FASHIONS Common Sense and a Knowledge of Line and Balance Should Enable Many of Us to Anticipate the Modes, Even If We Find They Do Not Meet With Our Approval NTELLIGENCE, brought to bear upon the twisting laby- rinth of the mode, will quite often furnish a clue to its next convolution. For instance, anybody who had systematically con- verted straight hair into curly hair by the home-tongs—and then taken no care of it—might have foreseen the sure coming of a time when she, and many other young women of the day, with their pretty tresses at a thousand different lengths and degrees of dried-upness, would cry, “Oh, heavens!” (if they did not cry something else) “Oh, heavens, we can’t stand this one more minute! Cut it off, smooth it down, and let us start all over again.”’ Well, then, with the modern tendency to follow fashion in a flock, the really-truly curly heads would go and do likewise and the really-truly smooth ones would not be left behind, and so the reign of short hair would proclaim itself with that of short skirts. When carried to the extreme, as it was carried as soon as the mass took up the craze for ordinary bobbing, this seemed at first a trying style of coiffure. Clean, yes; tidy, yes; startling, yes; but becoming to every one, no. However, this was a simple matter of accommodating the mode of dressing the hair to the character of the head and face, and the short cut became pleas- ing. The point is that its advent could not have surprised any- body with a knowing vision. EXT, anybody with that sort of vision would have sensed the arrival of the small, soft hat to fit the nearly natural cranium. Indeed, any idiot could have prophesied it. And anv artistic-eyed person would guess that the backs of such hats must be straight, or nearly, to carry out the line of the little chignonless heads. When shade hats with brims were desired, it wouldn’t take an expert to guess that, in the back, those brims must turn directly upward for the same reason, or that with no what-one-might-call “anchorage,” all trimming must be light and well balanced. General simplicity of costume dictates gen- eral simplicity in hat trimming, and millinery acumen would unhesitatingly pronounce, “‘No heavy top hamper when there is noihing to pin it to.” It would also tell itself that if so many flowers were blossoming on chiffon frocks, few could be used on accompanying smart hats. T IS astonishing, considering how little the fashions are credited with sound sense, to find out how far that quality will go in helping one to foretell them. Of course, the interplay be- tween cause and effect is sometimes difficult to explain. One can not exactly say whether the modern slim silhouette in clothes came to suit some particularly slim shape, or whether the shape came to suit the slim silhouette in clothes. Both, most likely. But, at least, one could easily have imagined that short hair and the single trouser-leg-effect in skirts would bring any number of boyish garments in their train: and then—perhaps—a slight re- action, but a growing one, none the less. O, in the appearance of apron fronts, fulness in hem-lines, flounces of brightly painted, gaily patterned summer materials, of period dresses for those who could not appear caparisoned as young gods, there was a suggestion that women who were tired of dressing like gentlemen of sorts might, quite as often as not, dress like ladies. With the very least prim of reasons, we are al- ways urging femininity to be blatantly feminine, but we can see charm, for some, in the other pose, and we know that, naturally enough, women who follow, or lead, in the pursuits and sports of men must continue to adopt something of men’s attire. Athletics, at least, are going to keep their adherents faithful to the kind of apparel in which activity may be maintained. No Delphic oracle is required to inform the world that its deadlier half of species is going to reflect the boyish and mannish mode in dress while sharing in the boyish and mannish side of life. The soft whisperings of summer knee-length frocks may be interpreted as messages from the womanish side, but the two will probably never be as far apart as they used to be when the work and play of the world was more differently divided between the sexes. F a graduating class in fashion guess-work had predicted how long the general shape of the slip-on dress would last, that - class would have shown an excellent knowledge of human psy- chology. Once accustom people to ease in attire, and it is very difficult to force them back to complications. ,The enrichment of this garment’s surface, its variation of lengths and widths, its additions and accessories, have never altered its essential quality of convenience; just as the bolsterish effect of those burly and bumpy persons who persisted in forcing their way into it never altered its popularity among smart slim figures. The natural distaste of the fastidious for having their fancies too widely fol- lowed should, however, be taken into account. This is at the bottom of many changes; and it is usually safe, as we have often said, to look for something fresh in the centre when the outside circles have too completely exploited a former novelty. In the cases of collarless necks, slender-lined gowns, and wider-toed shoes, the comfort of them has saved them to the proud, in spite of the crowd’s approval. ALANCE is another puwerful factor in the mode. If the dress is narrow, the coat is not unlikely to flare. If dresses widen and ripple, hats may extend their lines in a sort of upper accord. Looking backward, one sees that the head-dressings of Marie Antoinette’s time really “went with” billowing petticoats. Our leg-of-mutton sleeve not only carried out the sloping shoulder- line, but counterpoised the outflow of the skirt. Any fancy may be absurdly exaggerated, and only those which fittingly show a lovely figure can be beautiful, but even the exaggerated ones spring from some germ or reason, and, if one looks for their beginnings, one may sometimes know their ends.

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ENGLISH SOCIETY ATTENDS THE INTERNATIONAL POLO MATCHES AT HURLINGHAM LC nnnc3acc VMddldddiidds Cl Ly nmi W ~ Alfieri Mr. and Mrs. Winston Churchill were among the notables in attendance at Hurlingham and found it a refreshing change from Downing Street \ Be ° § lee ge wont ve * QQ Wi Sport and General Press Lady Blandford attended the matches with her brother-in- law, Lord Stanley. They were photographed making a determined advance upon the course Wh Wldbilddbtee!tbbi | ‘ Ss WY f N \ \ \" N \} 1 NN ve \ (Below) Lady Louis Mount- batten, walking to the course Hereditary Lord Great with Lord Molyneux, wears Chamberlain of England, . a perfectly plain tailored with Lady Ancaster, were ; F aa frock and hat that are the interested spectators . : acme of smartness (Below) The Earl of An- caster, who is the Joint MMU Uddddddidddedldtddidldddg ida Go ee Alfieri fads WS Vea Yd The King and Queen of England paused on the way to their box to chat with Captain R. L. McCreery, No. 1 of the English team Yj Copley lL lle NN MMMM OU eh Sane \ ANN ern WARN "™=™™®WD”™NRD>,: DN OW ”F.] WH Alfieri Topical Press

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\N NY N | ‘ aN ’ ‘ WOT September 15, 1925 Harvey White 103 A dining-room in a New York town house shows an interesting way of enlivening a small, low-ceilinged room. Brilliant colours are used, interspersed with gold and silver, the background and ceiling are blue, and the work on the panels is done in gesso, modelled in low relief and painted in oil; decorations by Frances Burr WORDS OF CULINARY WISDOM FOR THE HOSTESS HETHER one lives in New York and knows by heart its famous restau- rants, or journeys from afar in search of feasts, the epicurean way eventually leads one to the Ritz. It is one of the mile-stones of perfec- tion in cuisine that all the world recognizes. So, in assembling fa- mous recipes from famous restau- rants, Vogue went to the chef at the Ritz, who has directed the culinary destinies of this distinguished hotel for over sixteen successful years. Recipe after recipe was spread out before Vogue’s eyes, each cne a treasure in itself and a delight to any hostess, each one an original creation from the Ritz chef. And Vogue gathered them all in grate- fully, to reproduce them here for the benefit of the hostess to whom the distingué is a valued note in her menus. EGGPLANT A L’ORIENTALE The eggplant is pared and cut into slices from one-third to ‘one-half an inch thick, which are fried in butter. Some Portugaise sauce has first been prepared by stewing chopped shallots and fresh chopped tomatoes with a little tomato sauce in butter. To this, one adds a little cream sauce for thickening, salt and pepper to season, and a tablespoonful of Hollandaise sauce. If Holland- aise sauce is not to be used on any other dish for the meal and one does not wish to prepare it-in such a small quantity, the yolks of one or For Dishes That Have Charmed New York Epicures for Many Years two eggs may be substituted. A little of the sauce should be spread on the dish on which the egg- plant is to be served, the slices of eggplant are put on the dish, covered with the sauce, sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, then browned in a hot oven. This is a delightful variation of the conventional way of serving eggplant, since the sauce adds to the delicate flavour of the vegetable and makes a dish more attractive in appearance than the usual crusty slices. It also has the virtue of being quite simple to prepare. POTAGE ‘GERMINY A L’OSEILLE The foundation for this delicious soup is a clear chicken broth. A thickening made of yolks of egg and heavy cream is added, two yolks and a half-cup of cream to each person, and stirred little by little into the hot broth. The mixture is then replaced over the fire and stirred continually with a wooden spoon. The moment it commences to thicken, it is removed from the fire. A little A Famous Chef Gives the Recipes sweet butter and cream may be added to prevent the soup from curdling, an event which may easily occur if it becomes too hot. A little shredded sorel, which has previously been cooked in butter, is added to the soup at the moment it is removed from the fire. With this, toasted fluted bread is served. To transform Potage Germiny a VOseille into Potage Tomate 4a POseille, one adds one quarter of the quantity of cream of tomato soup to the Potage Germiny, when it is removed from the fire. Both of these soups have a delicious and unique flavour and a creamy consistency that brings a tribute from the most discriminating dinner guests. BABY LAMB MIREILLE One of the spécialités of the Ritz that will furnish the hostess with an excellent dinner dish is lamb served @ la Mireille. A saddle or rack of baby lamb is roasted in the usual way. Pota- toes are cut in tiny slices, the size of matches, and sautéd in butter. Artichoke bottoms’ and thin slices of truffles are also sautéd in butter, and all the vegetables are garnished about the lamb on a large platter. This is served with brown gravy. A dish of this sort, while usual enough in its component parts, shows the hand of a master in combining those ingredients that most perfectly complement each other in flavour. (Continued on page 130)

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; é ‘Shine Steichen SE r N en tho STAGE ay LAWID ClARd HE theatrical season has acquired the habit of ending with a grand gesture. After the feeble and desperate perpetrations of May and early June, it girds its loins, extends its chest, clears its throat, and with a flamboyant flourish produces the summer revues. ‘These musical shows justify the intemperate superla- tives with which their press agents describe them, in size and prodigality at least. They are lavish entertainments, supreme spectacles, most costly revues ever produced. They become more lavish and more costly year by year; indeed, they have become so lavish and costly that it can not be long now before they reach the limit. What then? It is much more difficult to recede gradually from a position than to abandon it entirely and start all over again on a different track. In spite of the prevalent idea that the more difficult a job is, the more glory—and virtue—accrues from accomplishing it, the musical extravaganzas will, to my way of thinking, be wise if they follow the easier course. In this case, the easy road is not (Left) Helen Gahagan was chosen to create a leading réle in “The Enchanted April,” from the novel of the same name. The play, which ts produced by Rosalie Stewart, has a particularly distinguished cast the path of dalliance, but of renaissance. For the things of the theatre are not like the tides of the seas. They are similar to the buildings built by man. When a structure becomes so top-heavy that it overstrains its foundation, it collapses. Attempts at patching are then futile—an entirely new building must be erected; not even that can be done until the debris of the old has been cleared away. If the overhead of our revues be- comes so costly that it places too great a strain on the box office, if the shows grow so elaborate that they dazzle and confuse instead of entertain, what will happen? THE FUTURE OF THE REVUE Certainly, the impresarios can not cut down a little here, a little there, use cheese-cloth for satin in one scene and satin itse!f in another, have one number performed by expensive talent and the next by cheap “pick-ups,” employ Nor- man-Bel Geddes to do three scenes and let Cain’s warehouse supply the other dozen or so. That obviously would never work. All shoddy is infinitely better than part splendour and part shoddy. Contrast, the wise ones tell us, is an essential, one of the first essentials in the theatre. 3ut half of one thing and half of another merely emphasizes the shortcomings of both. That, cer- tainly, is not the kind of contrast that makes for success in musical shows, or in plays, for that matter. The playwright has to fix a standard for himself and stick to it. Imagine what would happen to “Aloma of the South Seas” if even two minutes of the quality of “Candida” were injected into it! Suppose “Abie’s Irish Rose” had for a heroine a Synge girl instead of Anne Nichols’s Rose! My objection to “Beggar on Horseback” is that the pantomine was so beauti- “ful, so delicate, that what followed it in the play seemed crude and thin and laboured by compari- son. Fancy a lovely lady in a Poiret gown, shoes by Henning, lingerie by Hollander, coat by Berg- dorf Goodman, scarf by Bendel, jewels by long patrician descent—fancy her thus accoutred wear- ing a gaudy, moulted plume in her hair! A revue that cuts down expenses by injecting a cheap and tasteless number or two into an otherwise expen- sive and tasteful spectacle would have the same effect as the lovely lady with the gaudy, moulted plume in her hair. A NEW TYPE OF ENTERTAINMENT What, then, is the poor, overelaborated revue to do when—as is nearly the situation now—its foundations can no longer support it? Will it attempt to cut down by patching here and there, or will it scrap its whole structure, cart away the debris, and start all over again? The latter, as I have indicated, seems to me the only sensible way. And “Charlot’s Revue” and “My Girl” quite obviously point in that direction. The whole approach will have to be different: scenery, costumes, “effects” will be adequate, but not obtrusive; the stress will be taken from size and gorgeousness and laid on entertainment. Instead of dozens of performers, an actor or two with a genuine comic flair; instead of tableaux vivants, spectacular finales, knock-about sketches a little wit and a deal of humour; instead of a stage crowded with jiggling automatons, a few girls and boys who know what they are doing and how to do it; instead of the scintillation of gowns, the sparkle of words and music; instead of blend- ing stage illumination, an effort to light the faces in the audience with delight. In short, the emphasis removed from razzle-dazzle and textiles and placed on material and talent. Such a transformation will not be easy; it will require much more than instructing the “book” Spar: Veins SERRE Eo Seer = Rae teal aoe tented Far 8 f 1 ' ( C

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For s of auilt eavy Dses. irely can been be- n on rate fain, lown for ther, lent N or- ain’s That yr is part 3 an atre. rely cer- s for that 1 for ould even were ose” Anne r on auti- play pari- shoes serg- long vear- evue and pen- same ulted ‘evue —its ill it here, y the r, as sible xirl” rent: , but size nent. two eaux tches of a few ry and ywns, lend- faces he xtiles + will 00k” Sestewmber 15., 1925 men, lyric writers, composers, costumers, design- ers, actors to “change their stuff;” it will more than likely require a whole new lot of “book” men, lyric writers, composers, costumers, de- signers, and actors. And, when that has been accomplished, what shall we have? At first, of course, uncertain experimentation, confusion, considerable gaucherie, 1nd a tremendous lot of flatness—even more than now. We who are critics will shake our heads and lament and ask, “Where is the grandeur that was Ziegfeld and the glorification that once the American girl was sub- jected to?”” One with Nineveh and Tyre, we shall moan. And then we shall turn to our typewriters and pound out a fierce, fiery indictment of the new order. And, in the nature of things, our indictment of the new order will definitely initiate us into the order of passé critics—akin to those of the present moment who are constantly inform- 4 ing us that beside Sardou, Eugene O’Neill is but ’ a pretentious upstart, that Shaw is a verbose ’ trickster compared to Scribe, and that John Barrymore’s Hamlet is rubbish—‘now, when Robert Mantell played the melancholy Dane... .” - We shall place ourselves with them. But a new group of critics will arise who will view the new thing without preconception—they will discern what the impresarios are stumbling towards and do their utmost to encourage them. These younger § critics will either be actually young in years and ‘ b. (Continued on page 154) ‘ 4 —_—_____________ w "airs: ee ¢ Wij Mp, G iy se. e Muray Studios 3 Eva Le Gallienne has been occupying her- : self, this past summer, with Mercedes de fe Acosta’s play, “Jehanne d’Arc,” in Paris, where her interpretation of the Maid of Orleans gained her a great personal success (Left) Greta Nissen, whose loveliness in the pantomime of “Beggar on Horseback” won her a contract with Famous Players, has hidden her blonde curls for the motion- picture production of “The Wanderer” " SCRE PT: Fi, IS REED Peay fees (Below) The Gertrude Hoffmann girls, fresh from triumphs at the Moulin Rouge in Paris, supply the most sensational numbers in the new “Artists and Models,” tae one of the best revues this season i iéa wwe ai _ SS AQ QS SE Eugene Robert Richee SSS SSS OOOO ww gd[vEd{zmNKS"TFOW_—_-_ €—/RHWQ.-_o_-_—«*“sPB=EPpoWDWGdd-_ BHHr*B$,_ dg o—TEBEgQq— dc zg BGG "BEBE gE SS S SW QQ ww V°oo”'_wtrCuoQqHVH [XL1]}, 4 7 “et ¥ ? . Rey ‘ "ye . if ED iy di ie ae Ae a ae aks QW... °F°7».’DtdKwWw Hy “= DOtl*l=lWt''TF-.FAewnd 6... WTtliliiiit SONA © Waléry, Paris

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The brother and sister in the sketch above are wearing blazers and caps in their school colours. The insignia of the school is embroidered on the pocket. One is in gold with black; the other is in royal-blue with white. Kilted skirts for the girl and shorts for her brother are de rigeur; from Peter Robinson. The two little girls looking on wear hand-knitted sweaters. An Eton collar tops the sweater worn over a tan circular flannel skirt. A Fair Isle border and trimming of mixed colours on a blue ground are features of the sweater worn over a blue pleated skirt; from Marshall and Snellgrove (Below) These two English chil- dren, playing in the park under the watchful eye of their Chinese amah, wear knitted garments. They call them “woollies.”’ The little girl’s frock in delft-blue is trimmed with a knitted design and has pantaloons to match. Her brother’s jumper and shorts are of zephyr or spun silk; from-Marshall and Snellgrove VOGUE : 5 a ‘ . ‘ # 8 FY 4 & *

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¢ a i ee ee. ee en Tee re September 15, 1925 LONDO CLOTHES ihe Cote of 107 yy on ‘ 45 “\ } =~ —- at ‘. ~ eng Cenc Bete: as (Right) Home for the holidays, the young English schoolboy wears his black jacket with black-and-white- striped trousers for social functions. Either a turn-over or an kton collar is correct with this suit; from Peter Robinson. A frock of white crépe de Chine, hand-made with smock- ing, is chosen by the English school- girl for dinner wear at school; from ES eros Marshail and Snellgrov (Left) Three little maids from school are dressed in the tailored manner so distinctive of their countrywomen. Sue, the tiniest one, is only four, but she wears a tailored top-coat of tan covert-cloth and a small felt hat. Beth, her big sister, aged ten, wears a simple frock of navy-blue rep with beige collar and cuffs. Nancy, at the right inthe sketch,1s clad in the classic English schoolgirl’s costume, a tweed or navy-blue serge double-breasted jacket with a brief kilted skirt to match and a white or beige blouse finished with a little turn-over collar; from Marshali and Snellgrove

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oe on eae PES Ce nena ale ne ee ee A G U I roe itn Colour Factor Charm MODELS ON THESE TWO PAGES FROM FRANCES CLYNE LANVIN (Left) Gleaming gold and light brown are a lovely background for the colouring of a rosy blonde. This frock of fine gold lace has a scarf of the lace edged with light brown chiffon that also edges the full skirt and forms the yoke of the bodice. A rose worn at the hip contributes a touch of warm colour VOGUE DE 10) CHIC E ROSY BLONDE Is the Most Vital in Expressing the of This Glowing Type HEN a woman is described as “‘a lovely blonde,” the conventional picture at once comes to mind—blue eyes, pink and white cheeks, and pale golden hair, the Botticelli blonde, suggesting primavera and poetry. But a blonde may, in reality, be one of several distinct types. An artist will say that, in painting blonde women, he finds that their skin and hair have shadows of definite and highly different tones. Some blondes, with soft pale hair, like silken floss, and clear white skin, have shadows with almost a green tinge, while others, those with deep rosy skin and light bronze hair, have rosy shadows. There is one distinctive blonde type that is quite unlike the usual variety. This is the woman who has a pale olive skin, brown eyes or, at least, eyes with dark lashes, and hair of warm gold, pale copper colour, or very light brown, with bright tawny reflections. And any woman who, by dexterous wiles or divers means, can create the glowing effect of the type with which this article deals is more than fortunate just now. For this is her moment in the history of fashion. The colours, the materials, and the models that are particularly smart are, many of them, supremely good for her. To perfect her type, she must make her whole effect a study in soft, warm shades bathed in the warm light that comes with a rosy sunset. HOW TO BE THE VIVID BLONDE TYPE If you are the natural type that does not use make-up, these directions are not for you, unless you are that marvellous one-in-a-thousand, the woman with bright, light hair and a deep creamy skin that has sunburned a lovely clear tan and for whom Nature herself, with her infinite artis- try, has created the desired effect. The right powder and lip salve are imperative to the blonde whom we are describing. In fact, while this woman can appear much more natural than the more usual pale blonde, there are subtle- ties that she must achieve to create this natural effect. This woman should never use a white powder, or even one that is very light in tone. It should be two-thirds pink and one-third rachel, a combination that is a soft neutralized apricot shade when it is off the face. One may mix this powder oneself and achieve the desired combination. This blonde must keep her hair meticulously cared for, not only perfectly washed, but rinsed afterward in some solution that will preserve its glowing reflections. If the hair is not quite bright enough, it may be given a light henna rinse that is not injurious to the hair. The henna should not be allowed to remain on the scalp, and the rinse should be given only by a reliable hair- dresser. The crowning touch of this colour scheme is not, as one might suppose, a light lip salve, but a deep one. Of course, it should be a brick tone, never with the slightest purple tinge. Those women who have thought themselves colourless and believed that a skin inclined to look yellow, and light, ineffective hair were great drawbacks can use these qualities merely as a background. They can keep their hair in faultless condition, perhaps using a camomile tea rinse after the shampoo to accentuate its blondeness. (Continued on page 136) ites: oh pee CRSA aR: ; : 5 RB

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—s

September 15, 1925 | ee eo A ANOLE Mite?

: Se DD Oe’ Se Slti“ (Right) An evening wrap that is ideal for a vivid blonde is j « of tomato-red velvet with a deep band of metal cloth, blond : oxydized fur, and gold and silver thread embroidery form- i ing a trimming where the fabrics join

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110 A_ slender daytime frock with the youthful lines that are still so smart, is of mir- roleen and has a suéde belt and taffeta tie. It is made in combinations of red with black, dark green with beige, tan with brown, or navy-blue with red; $35.50 (Right) An ensemble, the coat of which is sketched opposite, features a two- piece crépe de Chine frock which is equally smart with- out the coat. It has a belt in back.In American-beauty, black, mnavy-blue, green, or purple; frock, $35.50 FROCKS AND COATS FOR DAYTIME SEEN IN THE Readers who are unable to find these models in local shops may purchase them through Vogue Shop- ping Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City, by sending money order or cheque. A_ small fee is included in the prices given WEAR SHOPS VOGUE The sort of frock one wears in the autumn, without a coat, is this O’Rossen copy of a two-piece frock of mir- roleen. It has a high collar and a belt of contrasting suéde with steel nailheads. In violet, navy-blue, or myrtle-green; $45.50 (Left) The lines of the smartest winter models are followed by this velveteen coat which joins with the frock sketched opposite to form a smart ensemble. It has inverted pleats and a collar of krimmer fur; complete ensemble, $90 (Left) A useful frock for the col- lege or business girl is this trim, straight model of navy-blue twill. Arrow-head inverted pleats form the single trimming, and collar and cuffs of white crépe de Chine complete the frock; $30

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September 15, 1925 111 (Left) The tweed coat for autumn sports and street wear is indispensa- ble and is particularly useful when it has in- verted pleats to give ful- ness. It may be had in patterns of English tweed; in grey, tan, rust, or, green; $48.50 & i 2 x , 4 * (Right, below) An after- noon gown with doth simplicity and distinction = is an adaptation of a Jen- = ny model. Bright metal copy silk threads gleam a- de gainst a dull background collar of crépe roma; in dark wend green, dark red, or black 9 with gold threads; $60 45.50 2 ¢ ae 3 ; f the % ls are 4 veteen t h the j ite to ; , mble. A two-piece tweed ensem- A coat for afternoon wear ond ¢ ble suit is ideal for coun- features a new fabric— fur; try, sports, or informal quilted velveteen—and fol- $90 town use for autumn. This lows the straight, slender conventionally smart suit has a leather belt and man’s handkerchief scarf in a harmonizing shade. It may be had in beige, tan, rust, or grey; $40 stlhouette. Harmonizing krimmer fur makes an at- tractive trimming. The coat may be had in navy-blue, black, brown, purple, or dark green; $75.50

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VOGUE VOGUE DESIGNS Jer PRACTICAL DRESSMAKING HE business of this portfolio of Vogue Designs for Practical Dressmaking is to guide the reader in the way of authentic chic. In these pages, there are no tentative trends, no probably-will-be-smarts. The designs are based on the authentic points of the mode, the dictates that one can trust and follow in the avalanche of new pre- dictions. And they are published just in advance of the time when the need becomes acute. In glancing over this current portfolio, notice the contrast of silhouettes. Front fulness—still good. Side fulness—newer. Back fulness—smartest of all, if becoming. Notice too, the high neck-lines, for here you have great variety in smart unity. The tie front, the turtle neck, the turn-over collar with shoulder closing. If you can ever wear a high neck successfully, your hour has struck. But, if you can’t, the high neck is not obligatory. Notice, too, the question of colour on the college girl’s own pages where three coats face their three predestined frocks. The combination of the neutral coat with the vivid blue frock is noteworthy, and any girl could think of several changes that she could achieve with the same coat in the star part of many joyful afternoons of the college year. The tailored coat and frock to match it, in reddish-brown, is for very practical wear, when smartness would mean nothing if it weren’t efficient. The crépe faille frock with the velveteen caped coat is more formal in feeling. It might also provide smart contrast in endless variety. All three of the dresses in these ensembles indicate the new interest in neck treatments. Don’t overlook the final page of the coloured section, for first in point of importance is the well-cut foundation for the modern dress. The ready-made approximation of a slip to fit your figure is seldom quite satisfactory, but your dress- maker can create half a dozen, with Vogue’s help, that will fit perfectly. Misses’ Coat No. 8266 (Left) An attractive coat of kasha duvetine has a front overlapping in a straight and slim manner, and a | back with the smart fulness achieved by two godets. The sleeves 4 are set-in and may be finished with fur cuffs. Sizes, 16 to 20 years Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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yue y is itic ‘ive The of ‘ust re- in nes “we lio, ont ver. ng. ere Che ver can our the the ats The the any hat the the ock ery The pe ght less ese eck age int ion ade ure *$S- rith VOGUE AN ATTRACTIVE FROCK FOR DAYTIME Frock No. 8218 Shirred volants set on the front of the skirt in an interesting line lend grace to this frock of flat crépe. It has a straight back, gathered fulness at the shoulders, and a narrow tie belt. The sleeves may be long or short. Sizes, 34 to 42 — Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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TAILORED LINES APPEAR Misses’ Coat No. 8233 (Left) The circular cape on this long coat of velvet is slashed and gathered on the shoulders in front. The coat has a slight flare at the sides, a smart notched collar, and set-in sleeves. Sizes, 14 to 20 years Misses’ Coat No. 8235 The severely tailored long coat is always good, and this one of light- weight worsted, with its slightly flared sides, raglan shoulders, notched collar, and welt pockets, is smart and practical, Sizes, 16 to 20 years Misses’ Coat No. 8234 (Left) This covert-cloth coat has a circular lower section joined to the upper section at a low waist-line, with an inverted pleat at the centre back. It has a straight collar and set-in sleeves. Sizes, 16 to 20 years IN YOUTHFUL AUTUMN COATS Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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‘UE VOGUE THESE FROCKS WEAR THEIR FULNESS AT THE SIDES Misses’ Frock No. 8237 This one-piece frock of light-weight worsted has a straight front, with the back cut with a circular flare at the sides. Other smart details are the slashed front opening and con- vertible neck, Sizes, 16 to 20 years Misses’ Frock No. 8236 (Right) Epaulet shoulders cut in one with the sleeves distinguish this crépe de Chine frock, with its tie collar and small revers. The front is slashed and shirred into godet effects at the sides. Sizes, 14 to 20 Misses’ Frock No. 8238 This one-piece frock of crépe faille has many points of chic—inserted, shaped, circular sides, epaulet shoul- ders in one piece with sleeves, and a convertible tie collar. The sleeves may be long or short. Sizes, 16 to 20 Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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ata rnin meen teR nace aise il a a RR I SAR NCTE ita ne Slip No. 8219 . Slip No. 8220 This one-piece costume slip of georgette crépe is Narrow double straps, crossing on the shoulders, slashed and gathered at the hips for desirable fulness. support without slipping this one-piece costume slip It has a camisole top with narrow lace shoulder- of crépe satin, made with facing line and camisole straps. Sizes, 34 to 44 — top. Sizes, 34 to 46 THE COSTUME SLIP IS OF UNDERLYING IMPORTANCE Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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VOGUE September 15, 1925 CE A \ 4 onc SES D XT X N74 ILO “ia SRO ¢ Blouse No. 8262. Skirt No. 8071 A detachable stock collar is the high note in a Slip-on overblouse of flat crépe. The epaulet shoulders are in one piece with the sleeves, which may be long or short. Sizes, 34 to 44. The one-pfnece skirt has an inverted pleat at the centre front. Sizes, 28 to 34 Blouse No. 8264 The turtle neck came for the summer and remains indefinitely. It is the feature of a pull-on overblouse of jer- sey, which is severely plain, having a single welt pocket. The long set-in sleeves are finished with small turn- back cuffs. Sizes, 34 to 42 Blouse No. 8263. Skirt No. 8072 The high collar on this tailored blouse closes with buttons, and they may be placed at the shoulder or centre back. Sizes. 34 to 42. To be worn with this blouse is a two-piece skirt which has an inverted pleat at each side. Sizes, 28 to 35 HIGH COLLARED BLOUSE TOPS A SKIRT WITH A PLEAT Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents f or each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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J og Atlt OOO aca ats ill bn: an gil aed oh game ES ORE Sepetin Misses’ Coat No. 8265 A kasha duvetine coat that leads a double life does so by means of the smart collar arrangement, which may be worn high or open with large lapels. The front wraps over, and there is an in- verted pleat at each side seam. The sleeves may be cuffed or plain. Sizes, 14 to 20 years a ul PLEATS AND FLOUNCES SOUND THE ACCENT NOTES OF THE SMART EARLY WINTER COATS Misses’ Coat No. 8267 Velours fashions this coat that combines comfort and chic by means of a snug wrap-around front, a high collar, and a circu- lar flounce. The sleeves may be cuffed or plain. Sizes, 16 to 20 years. A velours hat to match is smart. Hat No. 8221 may be had in head-sizes 21, 21% and 22 PA SERRE SEE SR a oS 2 Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie pattern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligée; $1 for each evening frock

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RE eR CRU Ber Oe aE rh a CR al a I the latest september is, L925 “Do _you Know style in soup! Do you realize that in this age of better quality and greater convenience, the ‘“‘fashion” in soup, as in almost everything, favors the product which has been made by the trained specialist? It is simply a “‘sign of the times’ that critical and capable housekeepers select Campbell’s Soups—those delicious blends of the choicest ingredients, prepared by skilled French chefs in the greatest soup-kitchens in the world. Campbell’s Tomato for example. It is literally the country’s standard for tomato soup. It graces the finest tables in the land. It is ‘‘the thing” to serve—the tomato soup that is always enjoyed. 21 kinds Look for the 12 cents a can Red-and-White Label 119 I'll sing a song—it isn’t long But certainly worth while: “The vogue’s decree, you'll plainly see, Is Campbell’s Soup for style!” 4 + Reeves, Soup coe CAMDEN,N, J. USA

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120 VOGU E PLEATED FULNESS IN NEW JUNIOR MODELS | Frock No. 2497 Frock No. 2500 (Left) The centre front (Right) A full-length in- of this flannel frock is verted pleat is ‘he newest distinguished by a small note on a small tailored belt, and each inverted model made of serge. side pleat has band trim- Bloomers are included in ming above. Sizes, 6, 8, the design. Sizes, 4, 6, 8, | 10, or 12 vears or 10 years Coat No. 2494 1 large plaid patterned on vel- ours is correct for this model for a small child. The coat is simple and straight and has a scarf collar. Sizes, 4, 6, 8, or 10 years Frock No. 2496 Frock No. 2498 The vogue of the two-piece A rep frock has the model is expressed in this straightness of its sil- useful little frock with houette varied by in- a kasha skirt on a bodice verted side pleats. There top and a simple blouse are band trimmings and of flat crépe. Sizes, 8, a normal armhole. Sizes, 10, or 14 years 8, 10, 12, or 14 years Patterns may be obtained from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, Greenwich, Connecti- cut, or 15 North Jefferson Street, Chicago, Illinois. Patterns are priced at 40 cents for each blouse, short coat, skirt, or lingerie paitern; 40 cents for children’s patterns up to and including 12 years; 65 cents for each one-piece frock, long coat, or négligéc; $1 for each evening frock: cE Uy ne Ss 24 bbb “ys Ze

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September 15, 1925 The Coupe °675 Touring — $525 Roadster— 525 Coach — 695 Sedan — F775 Commercial Chassis — 425 Express Truck Chassis 550 ALL PRICES F. O. B. FLINT, MICH. fer Economical Transportation What a Second Car Saves Golfing, shopping, driving back and forth from business, meeting trains, taking the children to school—these and many other purposes can be accomplished more easily in a Chevrolet as a second car at a substantial saving in the cost of operation of your larger car. In addition it leaves a car at home for the family’s use. CHEVROLET MOTOR COMPANY, DETROIT, MICHIGAN Division of General Motors Corporation [eae ALITY AT LOW C€@sT

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£ % / ( PA \ / F ispet in LEUE* “4 Tustle of a , France, at A folk- e a hum- ross Saat Helds est fragBrance @® P93 | VLE [ CLIN hb / PA F..41 -§ RK & TILFORD, New York, Sole American Distributors Harvey White The appointments of this glass-topped dressing-table make a group The French candle holders have amethyst and crystal drops, and a polychrome Italian box serves to hold trinkets. The round Italian pottery box holds powder, while the quaint dish is for cigarettes; from Vera Sanville of unusual charni.. ON HER HINING sun and golden sands, the joyous months of summer, when swimming and riding and golf and tennis vied to fill the hours, are behind us. They have put sparkle in our eyes and new energy in our system, but, alas and alack, what have they done to our faces? When summer takes its toll, it is inevitably from the texture, the fine- ness of the skin. If we have been wise, we have warded off tan and freckles and burns by preventative measures. But how few of us have been wise, and how many have gone blithely on ignor- ing the elements. And the elements have done their worst. We return to the autumn season with skins roughened and coarsened by sun and winds, and our first thought is of beauty means to whiten and refine them, Fortunately, experts have anticipated our beauty needs, and means to soft white skins are immediately at hand. THE SKIN MUST BE REVIVED When the skin is burned by the summer suns, its natural oil is entirely dried out. It is left worn and exhausted. The pores coarsen, and the skin grows taut and roughens. The first duty to this tired-out skin is to stimulate it, to revive the circulation, as well as to bleach it. A bleach cream from one famous series is designed with this double purpose of bleaching and stimu- lating, and it is used in a treatment in which every preparation has some bleaching quality. This treatment may be taken in the New York salon, a house famed for creating youth, where graduate nurses give the treatment and inspire confidence with the first touch of their fingers. Or all the preparations, which are available in stores and shops throughout the country, may be pur- chased for home treatments. This treatment starts with the usual and important cleansing of the face. A rose-leaf cream is used for the cleans- ing, a cream that has the light bleach- ing properties beneficial to the skin all the year round, and it is applied with cotton dampened in cool water, so that the heat of the fingers does not reach the skin. It is then removed with cleansing tissue. The cleansing cream may be had in four sizes at $1.25, $2.25, $3.75, and $6.25. DRESSING-TABLE After the cleansing, small packs that take the place of soap are used. Thes: too, have bleaching properties, since they contain oatmeal and herbs, and they are an excellent preparation to use on the face about once a week, at any season. A pack is soaked in hot water, then rubbed gently over the fac particularly over the places wher blackheads have formed. A box of ten of these packs costs $2.25. To finish the cleansing process, a skin freshener is patted on, a delightful preparationf with a fresh fragrance that closes the pores after the use of the packs. The skin freshener is sold in bottles of three sizes, at $1.50, $3.25, and $10.50. The bleach cream follows, and that is worked into the skin and allowed to remain on the face. If the skin is) unusually tender, the bleach cream will i 4 burn so that it will be necessary to re-| 4 move it after two or three moments,| | but it is best to keep it on for four or | 7 five moments, if possible. The skin responds to this with a tingle of reviv- ing circulation and new stimu‘is to sluggish pores. This bleach cream has | proved amazingly efficacious in curing |7 blackheads and in bleaching freckles) and those objectionable brown spots)% that occasionally appear upon the face. A weekly application of the bleach} cream is beneficial to the skin through-|4 out the year. A jar of the bleach cream) 4 sells for $2.25 and $3.75. When the bleach cream is removed, a soothing cream is applied to cool the skin. This} cream costs $1.25, $2.25, $3.25, and $8.25 a jar according to size and, whe! that is wiped away, the face is covered with cotton pads soaked in an invig- orating balsam astringent, and ice passed over the pads, to close the pore: and make the skin firm and fine. Thi balsam astringent may be had in bot tles of three sizes costing $2.75, $4.2 and $7.25. CSR Se iT 2 RoR RR RRS emus SOFT ARMS AND SMOOTH While the skin of the face is beim i restored to whiteness and freshness § the arms and hands are not to be nes lected. There is a special bleachin iy hand lotion, a lovely green liquid th! is a joy to use. A bottle of the bleach ing lotion costs $2.25. A developit (Continued on page 128) 1 Retseapin mi eter Si SO ex: youtl lines abun forest the ve Jul sided scopic “ If, a T ne sign oO may b Two ( Juli of pro

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BLE packs that ® sed. These ‘ties, since herbs, and aration tops a week, ath ked in hot er the face ces where box of tent To finish 1 freshener ff preparation fy closes the} packs. The f les of three f 10.50. Thef 1d that is allowed to} 1¢ skin ish cream will 7 sary to re-| 9 moments, | or four or) The skin e of reviv- 4 timu'‘sis to cream has |7 in curing 7 ig freckle own § spots § n the face. jm the bleach n through- sach cream §9 and ice St e the pore iF fine. Thy ad in bot fe .75, $4.28 TH e is being freshness to be neg bleaching iquid thal he bleach: devel ping 28) J ULIA HOYT is an accom- plished actress and she writes as well as she acts. When, in a gown of Spanish grace and silken loveliness, she poses for a great portrait painter, she memorializes not alone his art but her own striking beauty—the lovely modeling of her face and head and the high contrast of her black hair and eyes with the damask of her cream-white skin. IN SPITE OF HER MANY INTERESTS ALWAYS FRESH, YOUTHFUL, EXQUISITELY GROOMED ULIA HOYT is beautiful, versatile and keen- ly alive—a Twentieth Century woman. She ~” has made for herself a rather unusual place in the smart and extremely active society of New York. And besides that, a career! No woman can engage in activities so varied, so exacting, without being in danger of losing her youthful freshness. Blue shadows of weariness, lines of strain will leave their mark on the most abundant beauty unless intelligent care is taken to forestall them. And the choice of a wise method is the very first problem every such woman must face. _ Julia Hoyt made up her mind to live her many- sided life—to pursue her career and the kaleido- scopic gayety of society—andstill to be, as she puts it, “always fresh, youthful, exquisitely groomed.” TS active woman of today” she said, “is “never permitted to betray any outward sign of fatigue. Loveliness of clear, smooth skin may be acquired through the daily use of Pond’s Two Creams.” Julia Hoyt is but one of many beautiful women of prominence who have learned to associate a lovely skin with the Two pure fragrant Creams made by Pond’s. They should be used as follows to preserve and protect your perishable love- liness with their balanced care:— VERY single day cleanse your skin with Pond’s Cold Cream. At night, and always on returning from an outing, with your finger-tips pat it over your face, throat, neck, arms, hands. Let it stay on long enough for its pure oils to seep down into the pores and bring to the surface every trace of the dust and dirt which clog them. Wipe off all the cream—and the dirt that comes too—and repeat the process, finishing with THEY HAVE RECEIVED THE. APPROVAL OF THE BEAUTIFUL WOMEN OF SOCIETY a dash of cold water or a rub with ice. If your skin is very dry let Pond’s Cold Cream stay on all night. VER your newly cleansed skin, before you powder, smooth the thinnest veil of Pond’s Vanishing Cream. The surface of your skin has a positively damask smoothness now and your powder goes on evenly and stays well. This cream guards you against the weather too, against drying and chapping and wind-and-sun- burn. Never go out, therefore, without the delicate protection of Pond’s Vanishing Cream. Follow the lead of the beautiful Julia Hoyt. Pond’s Two Creams will keep your youth for you while you pursue the gayest, busiest, most eventful of careers. Freer orrer—Mail this coupon at once and we will send you free tubes of these two famous creams and an attractive little folder telling you how to use them. 137 Hudson Street, New York. Please send me your free tubes, one each of Pond’s : Cold and Vanishing Creams. oS Ae ek ae aes en eee peerage rere

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“COhe Ginest “Writing “Papers that can be made” In Economy Boxes erie XIV ig you wrote your next letter on Louis XIV you would realize why the discriminating users say, “No one could wish for finer writ- ing paper.” A true deckle edge paper with a distinctive pattern that attracts favorable attention everywhere. (and foom- i lovely whiteness and crisp _ 4 linen finish mark Hand Loom as a stationery quite apart from the ordinary run of linen finish note paper. An all rag sheet, carefully pressed with pure Irish Linen, | gives that distinctive finish which makes writing on it a real event. | Deckle (louskin | ee those who prefer a vellum finish, Deckle Glovskin is the ne plus ultra. A fine writing sur- face as smooth as its name implies, with a feathery edge that adds just the right touch and smartness. amin CSionial Kidskin- O easy to write on, this mod- erate priced note paper is be- coming more and more the pride of particular people who prefer a vellum finish for all of their corre- spondence. . Your stationer will be glad to supply you with these famous Whiting-Cook style and quality papers in economy boxes, with envelopes to match in all socially correct sizes—many have dainty colorful linings. Also in single quire and exquisite gift boxes. Whiting anc Cook Ine HOLYOKE, MASS. ‘ = 9) 1) VOGUE 1 history that began fifteen hundred years before Christianity is recorded in Egyptian inscriptions that show shoemaking a flourishing trade even then SHOES OF OTHER CENTURIES | By SHERRIL SCHELL kind, there may be found mention of the shoe. To be sure, in the beginning of civilization, it was a very simple affair, being only a sole tied to the foot by a thong passed between the toes. This device, which served as a protection to the sole of the foot, was the original sandal and was worn by the Egyptians, the Greeks, and the Romans. Ancient Egyptian inscrip- tions show that shoemaking was a flourishing trade fifteen hundred years before the Christian era. Although leather was the material most fre- quently used, shoes were also made of palm and papyrus leaves fastened to- gether. In the Louvre, we find Egyptian shoes of a later period of red morocco, green imitation of morocco, shoes with designs painted on the vamps, a pair of slippers with gilded rosettes on the instep, and a wooden shoe with an iron instep. I: THE earliest history of man- ORIENTAL FOOTWEAR In the countries of the East and particularly in Persia, people of low stature were looked upon with consid- erable condescension by taller ones, and it was so that high heels came into fashion, to make up for this deficiency. At first, shoes with high heels were worn only by actors, but afterwards they were adopted by all. Wealthy Persians wore shoes covered over with precious stones arranged in the most exquisite patterns, and those poorer in worldly goods wore imitation gems on |” their footwear. Throughout the Orient. the colour of shoes was a matter of great importance as it indicated th caste of the wearer. Red and yellow | — were the favourite shades of those of high rank. Woe to those of lesser de- gree who dared to wear these colours’ In ancient times, all Mohammedans resented any one wearing yellow except the followers of Allah. Christian travel- lers were always warned of this feeling before they set out to visit Easten countries. GREEK SHOES In Greece, shoemaking was looked upon as a fine art. In Socrates’ time. Lucien, the first Greek to write about shoes, says that the Greeks wore whit red, green, and lemon coloured shoes “The proud young men,” he writes, “are noted for their small feet, and the women often wear purple shoes that are so tight on their feet as to injure th flesh.” Grecian women of high ranl sometimes had as many as twenty-two different kinds of shoes. When the) left their houses, slaves accompanied | them carrying a rich carpet called ‘= beg sandalathique in which were placed | shoes appropriate to the different places where they called and the nature of the occasion. If they visited the Temple of Venus or Diana, they put on a spe- cial variety of shoe supposed to be favoured by those goddesses. When : (Continucd on page 128) Lite ED tae ; . a 8 ~~ AON SF TU eT a UMMA UTTAR Sherril Schell 2 | The shoemakers of the seventeenth century, in Paris, were skilled in the usage of bows, rosettes, and laces, the fashion of the day, for it was a frivolous age that was reflected in its footgear

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IGUE RIES 1 gems on he Orient, matter of cated § th nd yellow F those of lesser de- e colours’ ammedans low except an travel- 1is feeling t Eastern as looked ites’ time, rite about [9 ore whit red shoes. le writes, t, and the 's that are injure the ligh rank venty-two ‘hen the) ompanied et called re placed ent places ure of the > Temple be on a spe- | ed to be 28) When a september ES., a¥2s2 Sn T WAMSUTTA MILLS, New Bedford, Mass. I / pis HE was given a ‘‘Wamsutta Shower’’ by her friends. ‘“‘Luck,’’ Susan called it, but Susan’s luck means that everything has been carefully thought out, beforehand, like our town orator’s extempora- neous speeches. Susan has a genius for getting just the gifts she wants for her birth- day, and for any special occasion. Not that she ever tells anyone what to get for her. Nothing so crude as that. But somebody always mysteriously ‘‘gets the idea’’ of the very thing she wants. “She has set her heart upon hay- ing all her sheets and pillow cases of Wamsutta Percale,’’ her sister ad- vised us. ‘‘Wamsutta Percale is the most satisfactory of any sheeting we have ever used in our home.”’ We bought the sets of Wamsutta Founded 1846. norvasc esinh-ocieie Sibememesenae— Percale that she needed to complete her collection; you never saw a girl so surprised and happy in your life. ““Tt’s pure luck,’’ she kept saying. ‘“T’'d rather have Wamsutta Percale than anything else for my house.”’ ‘It may be luck,”’ said one of the girls afterwards, ‘‘but it’s mighty good head-work. I want everybody to take note right now that I have a chest of my own in which I am col- lecting Wamsutta, one piece at a time, at regular intervals. And if you ever want to surprise me you can do it most successfully by giving me a Wamsutta Shower, too.”’ We did. But that’s another story. Wamsutta Percale sheets and pillow cases have the finetexture that makesthem an admirable gift for the bride, and their remarkable strength makes them a most economicalinvestment for any household. RIDLEY WATTS & CO., Selling Agents, 44 Leonard Street, N. Y. LUCKIEST BRIDE IN OUR TOWN IS WAMSUTTA PERCALE EXPENSIVE? If there could be a ‘‘wear meter’’ attached to wAMSUTTA PERCALE Sheets and pillow cases and the amount of wear could be measured and paid for just as you do for your electric light current, you would find wamsuTTAa surpris- ingly economical to use. The famous Millard laundry test has proven WAMSUTTA PER- CALE to be much stronger than 24 other brands representative of the best sheetings on the market. Measured by itslength of service, WAMSUTTA PERCALE is really most inexpensive. SHEETS & PILLOW CASES C The finest of cottons AMSUTTA PERCALE /WAMSUTTA PERCALE WAMSUTTA MILLS NEW BEDFORD MASS. c Always look for the green and gold

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PERSE NN EI tr Risiey BPat pens Tom, Dick, and Harry are here presented in cor- rect attire for young men of about ten years. Tom wears a white drill blouse with a sailor collar and blue serge shorts. Dick (middle) is wearing a white linen suit with shorts to match and a buckled linen belt. Harry’s suit of blue and white drill has a plain blue collar, cuffs, and edging ex Rpraiens An etching by Alex Rzewuski, the newly acclaimed Polish portraitist who has achieved . h hi : m , : 2 Z f suave and pracile ine and the DRESSING THE VERY YOUNG MAN nonchalant pose which char- acterize his dry points of well known Parisiennes. a LITTLE boy should be dresscif I TER from the time he graduates fro Ue OWLWe — Re ee his long dresses, in a simple, comfor: : able fashion. The first suits should | ia of knitted wool, snug and warn, t ward off chill. These suits laund easily. At the age of three, a little fe Charming people back intown f és - 4k low may wear sailor-suits with 1 open free neck-line, and, in the sprin - + - NCW plans 2+ NEW places : | and autumn, he may wear serge trou ers with jersey or wool sweaters. Suit to go ea NEW things to do. c | must be snug and trousers short. a SEE eee wenn Days of choosing—reveling in the gorgeous panoply of Fashion; choosing the right things for every crowded hour. i i The fascination of supple se a — velvets, of shimmering tinsels, colorful satins and rich i a aed three years, the knitted suit is brocades _ the appeal of art the thing, particularly if it is that is modern—Cheney Silks. DS Bepeeoniventasan over collar. The other, of jer- sey in lavender, has a knitted silk mixture forming collar, cuffs, and bottom on the blouse (Right) The swagger angle of one’s cap 1s correct, if one is wearing a white drill sailor-suit with long trousers and a short blue double-breasted coat of navy-blue serge, or a sailor-suit with long blue serge trousers and a white blouse with a blue collar

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~ VOGU) September 35, 19285 1 be dressed iduates fro] ple, comfor iy its should )y 1d warm, ti uits laund », a little fe} ; its with we in the spring serge trousy eaters. Suiti™ short. Orientals and Téclas Even Share a Mutual Disadvantage Tue one—and the only—disadvantage of wear- ing genuine Tecla or genuine Oriental Pearls is, that one must occasionally leave them off for a day while they are cleaned and restrung—a counter- feit necklace, of course, never has to be left off— the crime is in ever putting it on! IIE Sith t /lvenue New Ca with Genuine Diamond Clasps IO Rue de 1a Paix Paris as low as $100 7 Old Bond St., London Técla Pearl Necklaces

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= cos : SE ae eles See een aah: Map pditesnaesiibiad ce dace > 2 i eacmaati Racial omer ries hy pips ADL Aaa seenianeehe Sak tae ee Ror. aes ee Ae BS a hig agape west te. 0 EI = NIE me Tn HHS rani Tatty UT sme TTT Nomina witty mel |. Cfaderniore Géation: | LE MATIN AU BOIS [2 (MORNING IN THE WOODS) 245, Rue S'HONORE_PARIS 589, FIFTH-AVENUE_NEW YORK. | LENTHERIC Y \ ew 7 VOGUE ON HER DRESSING-TABLE (Continued from page 122) cream that is used to soften the arms and hands is especially excellent to smooth and nourish roughened elbows, those points of the arms that serve as supports when one is lying on the beach, and then suffer accordingly. The developing cream comes in jars of two sizes, at $1.75 and $2.75 a jar. Of course, the bleach cream serves its purpose for hands and arms, as well as for the face. When the arm treat- ment is given in the salon, a bath milk, a preparation that is individual of its kind, is used to soften and whiten the arms and hands (a bottle of this prepa- ration costs $1.25), and exercises to reduce the arm or means for developing it are given, to be repeated at home. One point that this salon emphasizes is that it does not attempt to achieve any miraculous cure in a day, but on treatment with these preparations shows a marked improvement, and 4 series of treatments, either at home or in the salon, and careful care of the skin according to the directions that the experts at the salon are glad to give. result in lovely firm skin, free from the blemishes of summer and glowing with restored health. Vogue Shopping Service, 19 West 4th Street, New York City, will be glad to make purchases upon receipt of « cheque for the amount involved, or it will furnish, upon request, the address of the place mentioned. A very small fee is included in the prices quoted. SHOES OF OTHER CENTURIES (Continued from page 124) Grecian woman became engaged to be married, she donned a pair of white shoes. Curiously enough, the women of that period never wore black leather shoes. At one time in Rome, red shoes were worn only by the demi-mondaine, but later, as has happened many times in the history of fashion, they were adopted by the more virtuous element of society. The shoes of the Roman were frequently buried with him, as they were considered a very important and valuable part of the costume and one with which the owner was loathe to part. Once it was the fashion, in Venice, for women to wear shoes of prodigious height, which made walking very diffi- cult. The mode was said to have been introduced by certain Venetian nobles to discourage their wives from gad- ding about, but, as one writer has com- mented, “the scheme didn’t succeed very well.” In France during the reign of Henry II., the court ladies wore enor- mous heels on their shoes. These were ornamented on the instep with a large rosette of silver and lace with a long metal point of gilt copper engraved in chevrons. The heels were so high that the most fashionable ladies literally stood on their toes. SHOES IN THE MIDDLE AGES During the ninth and tenth centuries, wooden shoes, beautifully carved, were worn by the great princes of Europe, the upper part of the shoe being made of leather and the sole of wood. In England during the period of the Con- quest, subtulares, a close, warm shoe of cloth and leather, were worn. The lower classes covered their legs by a sort of garter, but richly ornamented shoes were worn exclusively by those of high degree. In the reign of Henry VIII. of En- gland, shoes grew very broad because Bluff King Hal had gouty feet and foot covering was devised of ample size to cover the swelling which so mortified him. During the reign of his daughter, Mary, the shoe had grown to such a size that Parliament was compelled to limit its breadth over the toes to six inches. Queen Elizabeth had a great fondness for elegant footwear, which equalled her passion for rich gloves. A pair of shoes worn by her are still preserved. They are of green silk of the period to which Falstaff alluded when he said, “The smooth pates do now wear nothing but high shoes.” FURTHER PROGRESS OF THE SHOE The French and English ladies of the sixteenth century wore wooden shoes curiously carved, a fashion that survived until the reign of Louis XV During the seventeenth century, it was the custom to ornament the shoe with bows, rosettes, and lace, so that ver little of the leather was visible. ‘Th shoes of the Louis XIV. period had little grace of design or harmony of colour. The distinguishing featur was the narrow, high heel. Some one has commented, “One can hardly be- lieve that such a shoe was made fo! anything but a goat.” The shoe of the Louis XV. period had a heel place: almost in the centre of the foot, which was supposed to aid in dancing. Dur- ing the reign of Louis XVI., the heel gradually flattened out and receded to its normal place. After the Revolution, the ladies of fashion adopted the Greek and Roman sandal, which was fastened on the foot by bright, coloured ribbons, sometimes showing the toes orna- mented with jewelled rings. And s0 the shoe progressed into the charm- ingly simple footgear of to-day. HM PTRO MII posing, S

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IGUE SLE UE ALT Magy AN | (\]\ i} \¥! A ie , 1} ny 1} hieve any but one ey parations it, and a at home ire of the : ions that id to give. from the ving with Vest 44th e glad to ipt of a ved, or it e address ery small s quoted, VSP Bepite exes ae aa LT KS I. of En- 1 because - and foot le size to mortified daughter, o such a ipelled to es to six 1 a great ir, which gloves. A are still n silk of f alluded B¥ pates do hoes.” © ge , St hp OES Ge eee S Whe ssn a LMbb WLI PE Ee o Fi “PAGLIACCY” Leoncavallo ouis X\ =| Che DUO-AR oo oe REPRODUCING PIANO am “Ti The World’s Music Masterpieces Heard in Your Own Home Some one [a F . GL, f LE 1( 4+ , SHO!) ladies of wooden hion that = - ‘ HAT a fabulous instru- STEINWAY An instrument that preserves a “tee i v V ment the Duo-Art is, and STECK flawlessly the dreaming poetry ly what untold possibilities: of world-famous of Paderewski; the torrential, "the heel [ig entertainment it offers! Think WEBER Jovian thunders of Hofmann, -—° q of a piano that plays everything, the subtlety of Bauer, de Pach- the Greek J from Bach Fugues to the latest fox-trot of mann’s melancholy quiet, Grainger’s charm, Ae : George Gershwin. One that renders a gem the beauty of Novaes’ tone, the perfection of gies from a Gilbert and Sullivan opera a moment Bachaus. Truly, the Duo-Art is a mark of e charm: after it has played the matchless “‘Liebestod.’’ distinction to the home that contains it. Yy. THE AEOLIAN COMPANY The Foremost Makers of Musical Instruments in the World AEOLIAN HALL + NEW YORK LONDON PARIS MADRID MELBOURNE SYDNEY SANS RO SAORI STR T 2 Sip

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130 VOGUE Septem LL Lccaadddddlldddddd i} i Z 7 Ue y % UE j y Gi o* ® 2". ~ A 5 : : = 3 . 5 m> oa ae et, iy os 4 15% 2 om & . ‘a UG, ee i _ «4 ok . > “Cea Aa o> ay Harvey White < . % & YY - e , A y a A detail of the overmantel in the dining-room of a New York town house shows the Queen and her attendants crossing the bridge to “A Mediaeval Tournament,” which is the subject of the wall panels

Fragrance from the gardens of old France in the soft and soothing WISDOM FOR THE (Continued from page 103) HOSTESS

SPV SWS SF HHBPA(WA9ANVPQ(HAHIWGAIGPVK{(E SESS GHG... SSS SSS SSA. ASS SAWS SA GAS LABS

the Precious Perfume Geurrd nour the most luxurious Perfume in the world alcum “Powders of “Roger & Gallet most feminine of all Talcs. In gorgeous green and gold con- tainer—slightly curved to fit the hand. Le JADE delicate and refreshing. Now offered in round aluminum containers or glass bottles. New, patent sifting top is a feature of all these containers. Prevents evaporation of the fra- grance or spilling of the powder. AT BEST DEALERS ~ EVERYWHERE

LV VN GG VCD GIB SN SH GH GS GS G GG G G GG HSK HF HH NhHH{KHWHKHALH HHS One dessert that is a work of art pictorially is infinitely delicious and comparatively simple to prepare. BIBESCO First, one makes meringues, for which one uses the whites of twelve eggs and one pound of powdered sugar, a quan- tity that will make from eight to twelve meringues, depending upon the size of the shapes that one chooses. The whites of the eggs are beaten very stiff, and the powdered sugar is mixed into them slowly. Oval, round, or square hollow shapes are formed with this mixture, and these are allowed to bake in a moderate oven. When they are baked, they are filled with assorted fruits that are in season, selecting them with an eye to colour—raspberries, cherries, blackberries, or strawberries, all are decorative and delicious. Over the fruit, a sauce melba is poured, which is made of red currant jelly and one arranges squares of fresh spring vegetables that have been diced— carrots, turnips, string beans, green pease, tomatoes and cucumbers, com- bined with hard-boiled eggs. These squares of mixed vegetables are placed on crisp lettuce and served with mayon- naise. LOBSTER FIGARO The lobster for Lobster Figaro is boiled for twenty or twenty-five min- utes in “court bouillon” which is made by adding a carrot, an onion, parsley, bay-leaves, salt, and vinegar to the water in which the lobster is boiled. When the lobster has cooled, it is split in two, lengthwise, and the tail meat is removed whole. The meat from the claws, the trimmings, the coral, and a little crab meat are chopped together, and to this some chopped chives, cher- vil, and tarragon are added, with a little chilli sauce and mayonnaise, only

/ be. a Y MUU ‘I HAD SUCH ng—often c port of reme mmerous phys raspberry syru slightly thickened : y aining real Write for copy of “Fashions in Fragrance” with i cg When i Carne ave sufficient to make the mixture cohere. I had heard to be served, they are arranged on a The mixture is then put in the half- what good it platter and surrounded with a purée of shells of the lobster, with the whole ith great s ROGER & GALLET marrons glacés which has been pressed ‘i! meat on top. The half-lobsters y appetite . through a tube with small holes at the © decorated with strips of red pepper, bwe all this Parfumeurs * Paris end that produce a kind of chestnut anchovy filets, and capers, and coated O praise It | 209 Sixth Ave. (Bryant Park)

vermicelli. If one wishes, ice-cream in fancy shapes may be placed around with aspic jelly. With Lobster Figaro, sauce verte is served, which is mayon- ww To aa the meringues on the platter, and the ise made green with the juice of aS whole dish is decorated with ‘Chantilly spinach, chervil, and tarragon, or plain * cream, which is stiff whipped cream ™@yonnaise may be used. Three 7 sweetened with vanilla flavour. aa eae eNO bole fi - 2 Seer appt maar Since a good Hollandaise sauce is an health | A delicious and unusual stuffing for important part of so many successful Th at ) 2 a baked chicken is made of corn. The dishes, this recipe from the dean of C17 : corn is thoroughly cooked, a little chefs should find a welcome place in melted butter is lightly stirred, and the every successful recipe collection. __ TO’ little cream sauce is added, and the Four tablespoonfuls of vinegar with N mixture is seasoned to taste. The cor a few crushed pepper corns are first Q from a dozen ears will fill one medium- boiled down to half their quanti'y. Ye sized chicken, or one can, if one uses Then, this liquid is put over a vi ‘y S simp canned corn. The chicken is stuffed slow fire, in a double-boiler, and to this with the corn mixture and then roasted _ the yokes of six eggs, to which a very The ) in the oven in a little butter. When _ little water has been added, are stirr d the chicken is cooked, the butter is in with a whisk, until the yolks begin plants drained off and poured into a pan, a to cook, Then, one pound of sweet i. little heavy cream is added together butter which has been dissolved 1s C a with a little cooking sherry and this added, stirred in a little at a time. lear t] 4 : sauce is served separately. The mixture should be whipped all t1¢ RO n p 3 oo while, and care must be taken lest it ONStIp: . SAUMON FROID A LA PARISIENNE grow too hot. A little water is added i. : from time to time, so that the sauce On y ter m\R os . An unusually attractive arrangement does not become too thick. The sauce he s te Y S “ for cold salmon as a luncheon dish is is then seasoned with salt and a very a” to boil the salmon and place it in the little cayenne pepper and _ pass d ealthy centre of a platter. Around the salmon, (Continued on page 138)

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GU BBeptember 15, 1925 131 Telling: OWN STORY OF JOYOUS NEW HEALITG WOO OOK cd dedeeeedddeeddeeeaeeccdceccceeeeeeededeedeccdeeeeteecdddeececedesetehdedadaddddddddua, WA SL "hn 0 EW] 7°( °° vy’ 7115 EW LW "nr WW vo x ~e WIR AAAAAQQ WMA WOK tSS spring liced— green , com- These placed nayon- aro is > min- ; made arsley, to the boiled. Ss split . tae Mi i (Fa 8 * a : + 3 te ‘. LA is ee Pete eV nigh a Wy aitcqu3uV4u34V0cQgawodiwllliiilddddiddéda and a ‘I HAD SUCH SEVERE INDIGESTION that I could eat almost noth- “T am A Hostess at a hotel and not a day passes that someone gether, Hing—often could not sleep at night at all. I tried almost every doesn’t ask me how I manage to be up late at night and out in cher- port of remedy, spent a great deal of money and consulted nu- the sun every day and still keep my skin so clear and fair and vith a Imerous physicians with no success. I never succeeded in ob- {my eyes so bright. My answer is Fleischmann’s Yeast. When I , only aining real relief. Then I decided to try Fleischmann’s Yeast. yi first heard of the curative properties of Yeast I ‘tried’ it—with ‘ohere. I had heard it much praised and wanted to find out for myself yf no very startling results. Two years more of intestinal indigestion half- hat good it might do. I ate it for two months. Today, I can say brought me to the point where I determined I'd stick at it. Three whole ith great satisfaction that my digestion has become normal, cakes of yeast dissolved in water became a daily rite. It was three bsters y appetite has returned and my health is perfect again. I months before I had the results I wanted—relief from indigestion, epper, we all this to Fleischmann’s Yeast, and I cannot find words gas and chronic constipation. To this day I take one cake as coated 0 praise it enough.” 4 a regularly as I rise in the morning.” = Miss E. LaPointe, Montreal, Quebec, Canada all Miss GertrupDe W. Hoop, Mount Lowe, Calif. ice of “LIKE MANY CHILDREN my little girl, five plain years old, was troubled with constipation. . , She would become languid and peevish, and ] ; , en l aT hree who conquered constipation and seem to lack energy even to play. As I did not releases new stores of vita energy. ITZ : = want her to form the cathartic habit, I decided E h k . l l complexion troubles — regained perfect to feed her Fleischmann’s Yeast. I gave her at two or three cakes regularly ae an I, . (and still give her) a cake a day. Now her ta > — ae: heal h through one simple fresh food. health is perfect, her complexion is a joy to —? day before meals: - crackers an of [BTheir letters are typical of thousands. behold, and she is just full ofenergy.” in fruit juices or milk—or just plain. ice in Mrs. Rosert Cuavias, New York City : ‘ , , 4a : . ail For constipation especially, dissolve one wit | OT a “cure-all,” not a medicine in cake in hot water (not scalding) before > hrs . ’ . nies. any sense—Fleischmann’s Yeast breakfast and at bedtime. Buy several voy iis simply a remarkable fresh food. o this 1 very Poa The millions of tiny active yeast bein [plants in every cake invigorate the swiet ; x é ; ed is [Whole system. They aid digestion— tinie. i . . e ia lear the skin—banish the poisons of est it (6) 7 . ° o, te nstipation. Where cathartics give cakes at a time—they will keep fresh in a cool dry place for two or three days. All grocers have Fleischmann’s Yeast. Start eating it today! And let us send you a free copy of our latest booklet on Yeast for Health. sauce nly temporary relief, yeast strengthens ae Health Research Dept. 5-20, The very he lutestinal muscles and makes them This famous food tones up the entire system Fleischmann Company, 7OI Wash- —banishes constipation, skin troubles, : nealthy and active. And day by day it sine dino. dene cities healing ington Street, New York. ass d

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es, a bali oF ae WRITE FOR— The PRESCOTT Dining Room Suite Do they know YOUR son at MALUCIOS ‘a HERE'S a hole in the door at Malucio’s. Ring the bell and a pair of eyes will look coldly out at you. If you are known you will get in. Malucio has to be careful. There have been riotous nights at Malucio’s. Tragic nights, too. But somehow the fat little man has managed to avoid the law. Almost every town has its Malucio’s. Some, brightly disguised as cabarets— others, mere back street filling stations for pocket flasks. — But every Malucio will tell you the same thing. His best customers are not the ne’er-do-wells of other years. They are the young people — frequently the best young people of the town. Malucio has put one over on the American home. Ultimately he will be driven out. Until then THE HOME MUST BID MORE INTELLI- GENTLY FOR MALUCIO’S BUSI- NESS. There are many reasons why it is profitable and wise to furnish the home attractively, but one of these, and not the least, is—Malucio’s! The younger generation is sensitive to beauty, princely proud, and will not entertain in homes of which it is secretly ashamed. But make your rooms attractive, appeal to the vaulting pride of youth, and you may worry that much less about Malucio’s—and the other modern fri- volities that his name symbolizes. A guest room smartly and tastefully furnished—a refined and attractive din- ing room—will more than hold their own against the tinsel cheapness of Malucio’s. Nor is good furniture any longer a luxury for the favored few. The PRESCOTT suite shown above, for instance, is a moderately priced pattern, conforming in every detail to the IT IS THE CUSTOMERS PROTECTION WHEN BUYING AND HIS PRIDE EVER AFTER. THIS SHOP MARK IS INSET IN EVERY BERKEY G GAY PRODUCTION finest Berkey & Gay standards. In style, in the selection of rare and beautiful woods, and in the rich tex- ture of the finish and hand decorating, it reveals the skill of craftsmen long expert in the art of quality furniture making. The PRESCOTT is typical of values now on display at the store of your local Berkey & Gay dealer. Depend upon his showing you furniture in which you may take deep pride— beautiful, well-built, luxuriously finish- ed, and moderately priced. There is a Berkey & Gay pattern suited for every home—an infinite variety of styles at prices ranging all the way from $350 to $6000. * eke eK KK F Write to the Berkey & Gay Furniture Company, Grand Rapids, Michigan, for an interesting booklet, “Some of the Things That Make Furniture Values,” which points out sixteen important fea- tures of construction that you should con- sider in selecting furniture for your home. BERKEY & GAY FURNITURE CoO. SX.O— S Wholesale Showroom; 115 W. 40th St., New York City Associated Companies MICHIGAN | WALLACE FurNITURE Co. ~ GRAND Rapips UPHOLSTERING Co. ere GRAND RAPIDS, An interesting booklet on furniture construc- tion. Sent for the asking together with the name of your nearest Berkey & Gay dealer. corer omen at

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Sree Ht Al cit ental seeds I If Demonstration Determines Your Choice You Must Choose This New Cadillac No one can experience the tingle and thrill of a ride in this new Cadillac and ever again think of a motor car merely as a means of transportation. For purposes of transportation almost any good four, six, or eight will answer—but here is a poetry of motion which trans- forms the journey into an interlude of joyous living. The new Cadillac will carry you to your destination, be it far or near, with the time-table certainty of a train de luxe. But better far than that, it transmutes dull time into golden moments and hours of elation and enjoyment—as no Cadillac and no other car before has ever done. The new Cadillac is for those who know that the secret of life is in living—who realize that the time spent in riding and driving is so large a portion of their existence that it is im- portant and even imperative that it should contribute largely to their physical and mental well being. The new Cadillac is the very embodiment of the invigorating, zestful atmosphere of America—a buoyant, beautiful creation which gives lilt and uplift to mind and spirit every mile it travels. Here is a Cadillac which smoothes away the hard, set, worried lines from the face of the average motorist—which invites him to give his inner self free play, and, as he rides or drives, get the uttermost out of the day and the way. Go to your Cadillac distributor and find how much more than a mere mode of transportation a motor car can be. Lawrence P. Fisher, President CA DIELLAC Division of General Motors Corporation

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mote easy lacing. They retain their original finish indefinitely and attually outwear the shoe. “Diamond ‘Brand Visible Fast Color Eyelets preserve the smooth Style lines of the upper and pro- 4 When French and American Shoe Designers Agree @ our Oxford and Laced Tie are in- In America, too, the trend is unmis- creasing in favor with Parisian shoe _ takably toward the flat-top matching designers, who sponsor visible eyelets visible eyelet as the sine gua non of to match the leather, and in particular § smart Goodyear Welt laced footwear. the smart flat-top eyelet. Look for the “Diamond Trade Mark UNITED FAST COLOR EYELET COMPANY, BOSTON Manufacturers of DIAMOND BRAND Vxible FAST COLOR EYELETS

tl ti b Cl |

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9 CURTAINS that give your room an air of SMART DISTINCTION OR the woman, who, in the deco- F ration of her windows, demands a sophisticated touch of smart distinc- tion that will distinguish her home from her neighbor’s, we suggest the new Scranton Marquisette curtains. The lustrous, gossamer-fine texture, the new and striking color combina- tions and the charming effects that may be obtained in the draping of these curtains, commend them to the woman of the most advanced modern tastes. Your decorator will be glad to assist you in select- ing the correct Scranton design for the interior treat- ment of your home, or you may write our Service Department about any special curtain problem. CRANTO SCRANTON LACE COMPANY, SCRANTON, PA. da) © “f * “a i = ak “i es oe s vt be PES troy ae | - 4 But Scranton curtains do more than introduce a note of smart distinction into your rooms. They out-wear ordi- nary curtains, for all Scranton pro- ductions are made to stand the test of summer suns and frequent tub- SCRANTON LUSTRE-LACE FILET NETS LUSTRE bings. In Scranton laces or nets artistry MARQUISETTES of design is always matched with the LUSTRE practical graces of utility. BEDSPREADS For your protection the Scranton tag is sewn on the top edge of every curtain. THE SCRANTON LACE Co. 4 Dept. 5-JA, SCRANTON, PA. Please send me without cost the booklets, Name ““New Outlooks for Every Home’’ and ‘Scranton Bedspreads.” Address City

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ta ae ‘Taz Man who seeks quality in one thing is likely BAG cast. ROU to seek quality in all things. Any merchant who noon | fom carries OSHKOSH Trunks is entitled to a little added ANTED ©" VOYA portion of your confidence. An attrattive booklet describing Oshkosh Trunks will be sent you on request to 459 High St., Oshkosh, Wis, “4 and New York City THE OSHKOSH TRUNK COMPANY, Oshkosh, Wisconsin, ay

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September CABRIOLET FRANKLIN Only Europe has heretofore produced anything com- parable to this New Franklin Cabriolet. Smart but dignified, compact but roomy, powerful but efficient, and styled in de Causse’s finest Continental manner —a perfect combination of custom design and ad- vanced engineering. The number being built is strictly limited. This, coupled with personal choice of in- terior trim and exterior finish, makes it the owner's . individual car. Primarily for three passengers, exclusive of the chauffeur seat, it provides folding seats for the * Occasional two more. It has every Franklin perform- ance advantage. It is backed by the Franklin reputation. town car style. Also SEDAN * SPORTSEDAN - TOURING - COUPE SPORT RUNABOUT + ENCLOSED-DRIVE LIMOUSINE ALL FULLY EQUIPPED AT THE CATALOG PRICE Those with unusual needs or the desire for unusual effects in any other type of car will be interested in the New Franklin Custom Body Department. It is under the personal direction of de Causse, international style authority and stylist of the New Franklin. Consult any Franklin dealer for full information. SYRACUSE, It is the newest and most authoritative expression of

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(saa daa ot ( adda COFFEE LL4448 9777777 ee Mt. RIVERA 4 ...anew individuality in pa rfum! Ifyou are looking (and who is not?) for a new individuality in that most subtly important aid to woman's charm—your pav- fum—you will find it in stints fener Parfum and Requisites Only vecently introduced in America (by Maison Mendessolle .. first in San Francisco in this exclusive shop ..and now ina very few smart shops in other cities) Fontainebleau Parfum and Requisites have won immediate entre with women of exclusive taste . . of social prestige! The theme of their creation was to achieve an inimitable indi- viduality in all Fontainebleau products. Fontainebleau Parfim and Requisites represent the highest manifestation of the French Parfameuv’s art. Fontainebleau Pavfim and Requisites can be obtained direct from Maison Mendessolle if desired. We shall be Poudve Fontainebleau, Two-cunce cunette fonce, Kac e/, Giantal bette Ivory White, Naturelle, of Park glad to send you an $2.25 ; $10.50 attractive brochure of Fontainebleau prod ucts. Fontainebleau Purse Size Partum, $1.95 Fontainebleau Lip Pencil | L $1.95 Fontainebleau Royal l Fon Seipations Fontainebleau Rouge Gompact ¥ rie a," ‘ $1.95 $1.25 $2.25 Maison Vlenclessolk ALSOT1 e77Q4eSSOLLE | 280 Post Street: San Francisco | Paris Y ZEAL errr, PPTL, PPTL PPTL PPTL. PPTL. 5S. EPPPE. PPPPE. VPPIE. VPPIE. VPPIE. VPPIE YATIE RAEI i ! yn mi Hee HET VOGUE ROMEO AND JULIET IN MUNICH The Flame of Youth Makes Shakspere Glow Again in Settings of Old Italy By JAN NIERLING NE can not easily forget “Romeo () and Juliet” if one has seen a recent production of it in the Prinzregenten Theater (a state reper- tory theater) in Munich. Let others tell of Berlin and Moscow. I sing of Munich, the gemiitlich and sociable, where restraint and distinction are, in matters theatrical, as marked as they are missing elsewhere. Should some lover of rose colour, young love, and Shakspere put himself to it to immor- talize the two and delight the ghost of the third, he would surely do just what Emil Peichan and the direction of the Prinzregenten Theater did with ‘Ro- meo and Juliet.” In Germany, they never take it upon themselves to butcher Shakspere. They reduce the time by accelerating the tempo of the action and by doing away with all but one intermission. There, Shakspere is always played fast, very fast; and it is very effective. “Romeo and Juliet” complete is a matter of a bit more than two hours. Its theatrical tempo is in accordance with hot Italian youth and passionate love, and it hur- ries to its fateful end like some vivid ballad of Old Italy. The one brief in- termission comes at the logical point— after the discovery of Juliet’s seeming death—, and, between each of the other twenty-four scenes (I said it was com- plete), since they can not be naturally run together without break, as in Mo- liére, there is only a one-minute’s pause. The light is puffed out (for no such effective scenes are ever allowed to fade out, movie-fashion), the curtains sud- denly drawn, the auditorium left dark. In a mere moment, one beholds a dark doorway where the hot, open street was before; for only the Germans and the Russians seem fully to appreciate the artistic and dramatic importance of a swift continuity. It is like turning the pages of some lovely old picture-book! THE SETTING OF OLD ITALY Instead of the more usual late Ren- aissance settings and costumes, the Peichan designs are cast after the pat- tern and spirit of an earlier day, remi- niscent of Sandro Botticelli, as em- phatically youthful as Maxfield Parrish, but exceedingly elegant. stylized, slim. It is not the Italy of Shakspere’s own day. It is the Italy of that old, old house in Verona where they tell you Juliet lived and which matches the palace of Can Grande around the cor- ner where Dante Alighieri passed some years. It is the older Verona of the Romeo and Juliet legend. And the whole thing—as I have always felt that it should be—is a dream of living rose colour. There is an Italian sky—the intense blue of Italian night lighting into strong turquoise as day grows and young Romeo drops over the iron bal- cony rail in the strong morning sun- light. But, aside from the tones of that penetrating blue, the colours, like the mood, run strongly to rose, ranging from the magenta of Lady Capulet’s gown and Romeo's intense scarlet, through the dull corals of Old Capu- let’s attire and his ancestral halls, to the vibrating, deep shell-pink of Juliet’s bedchamber. There is the amorous rose-tan of the Italian Paris’s costume and the delicate roses that he carries to the tomb; there is the violent vermilion of the Nurse’s dress with her dazzling red parasol and ridiculous little green fan; there are raspberry, blood-red, apricot, and magenta, running up to rose. vivid peach, poppy, and flame, toning down to dull coral and over- tones of anemone and pearl-pink, shir- mering, vibrating. One feels the rin and life of the colours as one feels the vivacity of the action of the play, and all this is against the severe restraint of an earlier Verona, a Carpaccio sim- plicity of form to offset youth’s ex. travagances and to steady a play full of swift, mad action. Nor are the ex- tremely short scenes regarded as nec- essary —or unnecessary — evils; they are accepted as opportunities — the shorter the scene, the more striking the picture; they are never omitted. Peichan, in his ‘Romeo and Juliet.” balances his exotic rose and passionate corals with a minimum, almost a meagreness, of detail. But atmosphere is there—the feel of Italian spring- time, the strangeness of living an old legend, the unquenchable fire of youth. THE BACKGROUND OF A MOOD The playing of certain scenes before vivid curtains (but curtains more in- teresting and not reminiscent of Ben Greet’s), aside from the artistic and dramatic values of contrast and _ vari- ety, materially hastens the tempo. The marvellous Shaksperian swiftness _ is preserved, without omitting scenes or rearranging the scene order. Some- times by interesting curtains, the stage is made considerably smaller, as_ it nearly always is for indoor scenes. Thus is prevented the monotony of a series of scenes too nearly equal in size and with too similar lighting, as well as the killing sense of a continual grand spaciousness. In his interiors, Peichan is peculiarly successful in creating at- mosphere and the sense of intimacy whereby the unexpected tragedy within the walls of Capulet is made to seem so staggering. In the party scene, the genuinely gay revellers running back and forth through the halls of Old Capulet’s dwelling, only partly visible through carelessly half-drawn curtains, but constantly passing and repassing, always heard—teasing, laughing, sing- ing and jesting, with snatches of music broken by shouts of laughter—, create a dream of Old Italy strung into a partly visible frieze and serve as the vivid, throbbing background for that first im- passioned meeting of Romeo and Juliet. It provokes the mood as surely as the silent, un-Italian masque and the joy- less, open-dance scene of traditional Anglo-Saxon productions kill it. This “Romeo and Juliet” belongs to care- free early Italy. Indeed, it is in the contrast between the gaiety of the setting of the theme and its develop- ment that half the tragedy lies. YOUTH HAS ITS SHAKSPERIAN DA\ And Johanna Hoffart plays in Mun- ich! She is the loveliest Juliet I have ever seen. She is young, extremely slender, exquisitely slim, and her au- burn hair is not worn in the approved tangle of curls, but with three long spiral strands before each ear and the coil behind, to accentuate a piquant nose and remind one of Pollajuolo. In Munich, Juliet is not regarded as the great final test rdle for a ripe actress who wishes to pass into history among the Great of her day, a sort of pre)a- (Continued on page 136) ELON NTO NES AE iy ‘| entra Bhi ihn A aN a ee ol a ETA Ry NOS FBSA RSLS EOE, LENG CREE AS FETA epte or 1 foo the is CC of | vol tior sati: disc The teri to t An imn for kid, fror The size

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OGUE MICH blood-red, ing up to nd flame. and over- ink, shir. Ss the rin feels the play, and » restraint accio sin- yuth’s ex. lay full of > the ex- d as nec- vils;_ they ties — the : striking omitted, 1 Juliet.” yassionate almost a mosphere 1 spring- ig an old of youth. MOOD ies before more in- t of Ben istic and ind _ vari- ipo. The ftness is scenes or Some- the stage r, as it ies. Thus a series size and ell as the 1 grand Peichan ating at- intimacy ly within to seem rene, the ing back of Old y visible curtains, 2passing, 1g, sings of music create a a partly 1e vivid, first im- id Juliet. y as the the joy- 1ditional it. This to care- ; in the of the develop- V DAY’ n Mun- I have ‘tremely her au- pproved ee Jong and the piquant iolo. In as the actress among prepa- ) OE TINE SR ER, ie Sea LIME ANS CART YS ELEC L AINE RB GP ne i DERN FB S99. CR Rete Sa HIS rears te ti Hines Snape NTE eptember 15, 19 e correct shoe will make | the foot look smartly small rs were appearance demands that every detail shall make the most of its role. Today, as never before, footwear can make or mar the effect of the costume ensemble. What is smart appearance as applied to the foot? The smart foot is the small foot, or the foot of more generous proportions that is correctly shod toachieve the desired effect of smallness. So great responsibility de- volves upon the shoe. By the right selec- tion of footwear, the problem may be satisfactorily solved. One sees many enviably smart feet today Women have developed a keen sense of discrimination in selecting shoes. This beautiful leather is fine of grain, grace- fully pliable and smooth. It molds itself to the foot as snugly as a well-fitting glove molds itself to the hand. Besides this important virtue, there is still another reason for Fashion’s choice of Vici kid for the smartest patterns in footwear. Vici kid richly and accurately interprets the color mode. The Vici colors always harmonize to perfection with the ap- proved shades in apparel and They know how to choose ma- terials and patterns with a view to the foot’s smart appearance. And Fashion has helped them immeasurably. She has selected for her choicest new models Vici Vici KID MADE ONLY BY ROBT HFOERDERER INC. PHILADELPHIA hosiery. Look for the Vici kid trade mark You will find it inside the shoes offered you in lead- LO 71 f2 kid, the leather that subtracts from the foot’s apparent size. There is no mystery about this size-subtracting ability of Vici kid. this mark — the Vici kid trade mark — inside the shoe of your choice. There is only one Vici kid—there never has heen any other. ing stores. Whatever the priceyouchooseto pay, this mark assures you of Vici quality. It answers your question, “Is this shoe made of Vici kid?” ROBERT H. FOERDERER, Inc. PHILADELPHIA Selling Agents: LUCIUS BEEBE & SONS, Boston Selling agencies in all parts of the world VICI kid® REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. 6 This model is typical of the smart effects obtainable in shoes of Vici kid. Patterns of this kind are particu- larly desirable in rich Black Vici trimmed in Nickel Gray, or in Vassar Tan Vici trimmed with Sudan (Beige) Vici. In Black Mart (dull finish) Vici kid, or one of the season’s popular tan colors, pumps of this type afford the trimness and simplicity that characterize footwear for general use. A noteworthy example of the vogue for two-tone effects. illustrated above, Vici which forms the body of the shoe, is set off to excellent advantage by trimmings of Cream color Vici. In the model Cochin Brown “mn

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weet ces rete: an, pares elvely as an autumn day at -Monterey Now, for autumn, another Meadowbrook has swept into the heart of the girl whose soul is out of doors! It’s for the Meadowbrook kind of girl— you know her! Sometimes, perhaps, she has outgrown her ’teens—and her twenties, too. Who cares? This jaunty thing of - velvet, with the poise and verve of a gull tilt-winged in the smiling blue of Monterey, is proof that Meadowbrooks are made to fit the youth- ful spirit. Colors as musical as blue breakers curl- ing on a golden California beach... as a splash of sunlight on a tawny hillside! a There is at least one store in every city where one knows—always—that the best of everything is to be found. That store is head- quarters for Meadowbrooks—and the price will prove again that good taste need not con- Fad S — sult the purse! California SPORTS HATS Town and Country Simon Mittirnery Co., Meadowbrook Bldg., 989 Market St., San Francisco. Eastern Sales Office, Louis Strauss @ Son, 15 West 38th St., New York City. VOGUE ROMEO AND JULIET IN MUNICK (Continued from page 134) ration for deatn, as it were. There, the saying that Juliet is “the role that no woman is capable of playing until she is too old to look the part” is not ac- cepted; it is never heard. The tradition is otherwise: it is the ingénue role! Juliet must be young, exquisitely lovely. She must be flaming, ardent—never kit- tenish !—passionate, noi conscious of Shakspere, temperamental, and schooled in repertoire. The réle isn’t done in the “classic manner” at all. And she always plays well enough. Herself and her performance are usually good to look upon, whatever general theories one holds about Shaksperian production. Nor does an older actor play Romeo. Be he twenty times a star, that rdéle is never assigned him. His pride of place is not allowed to wreck the ro- mance of Romeo and Juliet. That is for the Duke and Father Capulet to do, and the experienced Thespian may play Capulet or the Duke, if he likes, but self-love is not allowed to kill Shak. pere. Some temperamental youngst plays Romeo, always, and always | manages it well enough. It is general) convincing and very Latin. The coy. tinental actor does seem to have a yen real advantage in the fact that jug “over the Alps lies Italy.” At any ray, the young actors of the Prinzregente, are more conscious of recreating in jp. flammable young Veronese than reciting dead Shakspere—and Shaky. pere never loses by it. Fiery you where youth belongs. under inspire¢ direction and with Peichan’s rapt uroy settings, could cover a multitude 4 sins, were there any to cover. Over. caution, at least, is not allowed tu dy! Shakspere. The younger generatig, takes him over in “Romeo and Juiiet and hot blood and general artistry mak up for whatever age and_ individy fame may yet be lacking. That alo is the elastic tradition in Munich A GUIDE TO CHIC FOR A BLOND} (Continued from page 108) And they can adopt a scheme of make- up similar to the one that is suggested here, of course, giving a certain amount of consideration to their own particular qualities. This type is brightened and made more attractive by many beauti- ful pearls and exquisite accessories. In fact, all the richness and loveliness of the mode to-day can be accentuated, with wonderful results. COLOURS TOR THE ROSY BLONDE Fashion decrees many exactly right shades for this lovely lady—chiffons and crépes, in beige, rosy-tan, or apricot, gold lace, cashmere-like weaves in red- dish-brown or dull orange, yellow and peach velvets, and pale ivory and flesh coloured satin. There is a legend that blonde women can not wear red, and this is true of the greenish-golden blonde, but not of the radiant blonde of whom we are talking. She can have no more happy selection for an evening gown than flame or cherry-red, both of which are very smart at the moment. Blue. green, and violet are bad, and black is never as good for her as any or every shade of brown. The proper fabrics are almost as important for her effect as the appro- priate colours. Materials that have softness, as well as a shimmering quality, are the best. Flat crépe, duve- tine, cashmere weaves, jersey, and, for the evening, velvet, lace, if of exactly the right shade, the smoothest of satin, simply made, and, occasionally, a very supple brocade. Even this golden ty must have practical clothes, and sj tweeds become her in such shades brick and golden-tan. This woman’s shoes and slippers a1 best when they are of shiny materi Natural leather, tan doeskin, roy. yellow kid for the afternoon, and, in evening, gold kid or metal cloth sandak with jewelled buckles, or bois-de-ros satin opera pumps. The gloves shou always be immaculately fresh a should match the stockings absolutel in a tone deeper than the shade of |! face powder. Or the stockings m occasionally match the costume, a no! that appears more and more in Pari To be consistent, this type should wei salmon coloured lingerie, or deep creat or peach, with apricot ribbons a tawny real lace and, always, soft nég ligées in pastel shades. If she wants! complete her picture, she can have lug gage entirely of pigskin leather. AN EXTRAVAGANT TYPE This is an extravagant type becaus it is really a gorgeous type, subtly e pressed. Also, it increases in char the more perfectly it is carried out i every detail. Everything must be, 1 only carefully chosen, but perfect harmonized. This woman should not! eccentric. Her clothes must never | obvious. Their chic and elegance in a discerning selection of the fas): ions that are smart at the momen carefully studied to enhance her usual and lustrous type. teeta aN 7 long b face po its adh and dai I am ¢ same pl faction 1 newer so far 1 Miss Fl winner test to State of

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"OGUE NICH kill Shak 1 youngst: always | is general The Con have a ven t that jug At any rat ‘inzreg ntey ating an jp. e than 4g and = Siaaks. ‘iery yout er inspired 'S rapturous ultitucde of ver. Over. wed tu dy generatioy and Juliet rtistry mak: individy That alo inich INDI golden ty S, and sot 1 shades 4 slippers ar ly materi skin, ros): and, int oth sandal 0is-de-ros oves shou fresh absolute| hade of t! ‘kings m ume, a not ‘e in Paris should we deep creal ibbons ar s, soft neg: he wants t n have lug her. YPE ype becaus _ subtly e in chart ried out | ust be, n t perfect ould not! st never | slegance f the fasl 1e momen ce her ip See a »trember 15, 1925 po has lone been my favorite face powder because of its adhering invisibility and dainty perfume. I am experiencing the same pleasure and satis- faction with those of your newer numbers I have so far tried.” —Hazet FLowers Miss Flowers is a prize- winner in a keauty con- test to represent the State of Colorado. ps UE Rae Ss CRS Bs F _ The Face “Powder of Quality ; “> AND & New Requisites for the Toilette Regular Powder, 50c Large Powder, $1.00 Compact, Single—powder only, $1.00 Compact, Double— powder, rouge, $1.50 Compact Triple—powder, rouge, lipstick, $1.75 Loosepact Ensemble, containing loosepact and box of powder to refill—Single, $1.75 Loosepact Ensemble, Double, $2.25 Loosepact Ensemble, Triple, $2.50 Glove Rouge Vanity, 50c Glove Powder Vanity, 50c Lipstick, changeable—orange turning to red, 50c Red Lipstick—rose. poppy, ge- ranium, 50c Lipstick Deluxe, $1.00 Eyebrow Pencil, hexagon, 35c Compound Toilet Powder, bottle, 75c After the Bath Powder, tin, $1.00 Bath Salts $1.50 Beauty Rouge, 75c Face Tonic, $1.00 Astringent Lotion, $1.00 Day Cream, Vanishing, 75c Cleansing Cream, 75c Tissue Cream, £1.09 Beauty Cream, $1.00 ASTE consists not only in finding that which is good’ but in using it constantly. Lablache Face Powder, the face powder of personality, is no changeling of choice. It has endured for three generations upon the recommendation of beautiful women who have used it. And everyone knows nothing can remain favored by women for three generations except by goodness and merit and desire. It is but logical that the newer Lablache creations should reflect and uphold this pres- tige. Sold everywhere, or by mail. Illustrated booklet and sample of Face Powder free on request. BEN LEVY COMPANY PARIS Dept. 147—125 Kingston Street, BOSTON THE CHOICE OF GENTLEWOMEN FOR THREE GENERATIONS ~~

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Now you can be sure of them even though you may not know furniture To every well-planned home, exclusive design in dining and bed room furniture is a ‘‘not-to-be-dispensed-with’’ essential. Every VERITAS suite is an exc/usive V ERITAS Creation andnot to be found in other lines. Back of the outward beauty and original design is the solid inner worth — the result of forty years of building to a high standard. The VerRITAs warranty tag assures it. Prosaic to you perhaps, are the details of furniture construc- tion. Yet here they are the creed of a guild of master craftsmen. These facts you should know, for they are the only basis for intelligent buying of furniture. Our free booklet, **Furniture Secrets You Are Entitled to Know,’’ tells you of the exclusive construction features of VerirAs Furniture. Learn how we finish each Veritas Suite in Verilac—finishing for beauty as we build for permanence. See the features that make the Veritas HALLMARK your assurance of highest quality. KARGES-WEMYSS FACTORIES Evansville, Indiana

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“VERITAS” means “Truth;” Truth in Manufacture; Truth in Advertising; Integrity in the dealer. On every “VERITAS” piece the exact woods are specified; the construction is exactly set forth on the tag; the finish, upholstery on chaits and every clement is stated and warranted. GO OH GH oH CH ow

VOGU; WISDOM FOR THE HOSTESS (Continued from page 130) through muslin. If the sauce is made to be served with fish, a few drops of lemon-juice should be added. If it is for vegetables, no lemon is used, and water is substituted for vinegar to be boiled with the pepper corns. COEUR FLOTTANT MERVEILLEUX Caeur Flottant Merveilleux is one of the most decorative of all the desserts at the Ritz and is a fitting climax for a list of spécialités. It is not as simple to make as some of the other confec- tions, but it has been included here, not only because it would be a trium- phant finish for a formal luncheon or dinner served in one’s home, but, also, because one of the component parts, pate a bombe, is the foundation of any number of delicious desserts and com- binations. Caur Flottant Merveilleux is composed of heart-shaped praline mousses, surrounded by liquid custard and decorated with fruits and chocolate leaves. The praline mousse is the first step, and this is made of pate a bombe and praliné. To make the pdte a bombe, one mixes the yolks of five eggs with a half-pint of syrup and a little vanilla. The syrup for this mixture is made of sugar and water, in a propor- tion of three to one, which have been boiled for a few minutes. The pate a bombe mixture is cooked over boiling water, until it assumes the consistency of lightly scrambled eggs. This mix- ture is then passed through a fine sieve and whipped well until it is thoroughly cooled. The complete pate a4 bombe is a kind of sponge cake, which will keep for several days, may be flavoured any desired flavour, and will combine with fruits and whipped cream for numer- ous desserts. The next step is le praliné, which is made of one-eighth of a pound of al- monds, one-eighth of a pound of hazel- nuts, one-quarter of a pound of sugar, and a little vanilla. These ingredients VOGUE SHOPPING SERVICE RULES HIS service is maintained for the convenience of our readers. Almost any illustrated article which is not available locally may be purchased through Vogue, or the name and address of the shop will be fur- nished upon request when accompanied by a self-addressed and stamped en- velope. Articles not illustrated may be ordered and are personally chosen by our staff of trained shoppers. Please observe the following rules in sending an order: WRITE PLAINLY. It is advisable to print your name and address. When ordering articles to be sent to another person, give your own address and that of the consignee. If the article is too heavy for parcel-post, remit suf- ficient for expressage, as it will other- wise be sent collect. REMITTANCES. As a purchasing agent, Vogue Shopping Service can not send articles C. O. D., carry charge ac- counts, or charge purchases to indi- vidual accounts at the shops. Send money order, certified cheque, or cheque on a New York bank to cover the prices of articles ordered. If the price is not known, be sure to send sufficient, as any balance will be re- funded. Remittances should be made payable to Vogue Shopping Service. BE EXPLICIT IN ORDERING. State all necessary measurements. Be specific as to colours, giving a second choice whenever possible; for hats, give are stirred in a copper sugar pan yi! a wooden spoon over a low fire unti they are the consistency of caram The mixture is then turned out on, marble slab and allowed to cool. J, praliné can then either be chopped fp, garnishing or crushed and reduced ; a paste for ice mousses. To forr th praline mousse, one takes one purt ¢ pate a bombe to two parts of whippe cream and some of le praliné, an mixes them together. The praliy mousse thus formed is put, togethe with a little diced sponge cake, j) heart-shaped moulds, which are place in a very cold ice-box until they ay frozen. They are then turned out j) individual dishes, or grouped on , platter, liquid vanilla custard is poure around them, they are decorated wit chocolate leaves and a little sugar, anj surrounded with any desired fruits such as strawberries, raspberrics, peaches—which should be placed in th liquid custard. CQEUR FLOTTANT

If one wishes to simplify the delight. ful Ceur Flottant Merveilleux, one hy only to omit the last word of its tit and have Ca@ur Flottant, which is ; step simpler in preparation. The sam pate a bombe that has already bee described is mixed with twice its quan. tity of whipped cream and flavoure with vanilla. This vanilla mouss together with a few small pieces ¢/ macaroons or biscuits that have bem soaked in extracts of grenadine « créme de menthe, is put in heart-shaped moulds. The moulds are left in a ven cold ice-box until they are froze When they are turned out, vanil; custard is poured over them with som colourful fruits, or the sauce mell described in the “Bibesco” recipe maj beused. Thisisbut one of the many way; in which pate a4 bombe can be used BERTINA FOLTZ head-size, for shoes, send an outline oi stockinged foot standing. DISCRETIONARY ORDERS. \i will be pleased to shop for articles no! illustrated in the magazine; a stali of expert shoppers is maintained for that purpose. Please explain as cart: fully as possible the type of article de- sired and the approximate amount yol wish to spend, but rely to a reasonabl extent upon the shopper’s discretion. ARTICLES NOT RETURNABIE Millinery, neckwear, veils, toilet good articles made to order, and cut length of material are not returnable. Othe articles, if for valid reasons unsatisfat: tory, may be returned for credit or & change. In exceptional cases, whien ® article is not exchangeable, the cus tomer will be notified. before the actu! purchase is made. RETURNED ARTICLES. Artic returned for exchange or refund shoul be sent to Vogue Shopping Service, |’ West 44th Street, and not to the shi from which they were purchased. \\' can not be responsible for delays " adjusting accounts unless this rule # strictly followed. INQUIRIES. Readers making quiries should always enclose 1 sé! addressed and stamped envelope. TELEGRAMS. It is sometimes ne essary to communicate by telcgraj! When it is obviously to the sole ™ terest of the purchaser the telegra! are sent collect.

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ES! pan wit! fire unt f carame opped fo reduced { 0 form th me part o t, togethe = cak ih are placed il they ar ed out in iped on ,; is poured aced in th he delight. ux, one hay of its titk which is ; The sam ready bee e its quan. 1 flavoured la mouss: 1 pieces ¢ have been enadine o eart-shapel ft in a ven are frozen ut, vanill; with sone auce melly recipe mi} e many ways n be used INA FOLTZ ULES n outline ol DERS. Wi articles nal a reasonable discretion. re the actu ES. Article to the shop chased. VW! September 1S ,. 93 BODY by FISHER IF you should see a closed car of 1910 on the street today, and turn and gaze after it with curiosity, you would unconsciously recognize that in fifteen years the closed motor car body has arrived at an excellence not attained by the carriage of yesterday in fifteen centuries. awe & For this amazing development Fisher is admittedly responsible. Fisher revolutionized an industry which had registered but little advance in method or quality from the time of our great-great- grandfathers. Fisher had a vision of the future based upon an idea in manufactur- ing. It has made both the idea and the vision come true. VW Ww WY It was the Fisher idea that the same methods of standardization and pre- cision manufacturing which were early introduced into automobile chassis manufacture, could be applied with equal success to body manufacture. Fisher not only introduced stand- ardization and precision manufac- turing—but also visioned for the industry the then almost incredible conception of the closed car as the ul- timate vehicle for the multitude. Vy VY Today, after fifteen years of devel- opment by Fisher, the closed car is a thing of beauty and luxury— and so strongly built that in it one travels across a continent at high speeds in Pullman comfort. And this vehicle, which would have been worth a king’s ransom in an older day, may be had in price ranges which bring the comfort of a Body by Fisher within the reach, not only of the wealthy, but of practically every American family. FISHER BODY CORPORATION CLEVELAND DETROIT ST. LOUIS WALKERVILLE, ONT,

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GUE le is vich l silver. E) adds { aristo- satisfies 2a ee hillings rchants and the foulton ; of his 1 silver- on Jine. V, was ame the S tells guished in the ‘Moulton, , now Mm ‘ine Arts, september 15, 1925 jovely pitcher shown on the opposite page is one of them. As we write, in another section of the Museum, especially selected for an Exhibition of Modern In- dustrial Art, gleam examples of modern Tow Le Silver, similar to those in the large photographs. How the American Renaissance has fused past and present In the realm of silver, the Tow e product of today js probably the finest expression of what is often called the American Renaissance. Its beauty is the product of a rare ability to blend genuine modern feeling with those motifs and themes of the past which have stood the test of time. Certain Tow Le patterns show Colonial and French influence, but they are neither Colonial nor French —they are not copies, but original interpretations. The simpler patterns — Lady Constance, Virginia Carvel, Mary Chilton, Lady Mary, LaFayette— inherit their fine, graceful lines from the Colonial spirit, but you will find in them a firmness and sym- metry which the Colonial silver lacks. In the Louis XIV and D’ Orleans patterns, you will see how Tow e designers have recreated the extravagantly ornate French motifs of the 17th and early 18th centuries, and given them the charming delicacy and finesse required by modern good taste. What true silver craftsmanship really means What modern art expresses in Tow Le patterns, modern craftsmanship reveals in their execution. Watch how proudly the jeweler shows you his | pieces of Tow e silver. He will point out the mar- velous sheen and lustre which remind one of the patina on old furniture. He will show you how the forks and spoons are built to resist the strains of constant use, how “springy” and resilient they are, yet how firm. He will draw your attention to the spoon bowls, which are deep enough to hold the proper amount of food, but not so deep that the lips cannot follow their contour. The distinctive smartness of the flat tines of Tow Le forks has long been admired, by both owners and JOWLE Solid Silver Cxclusively we Mary Chilton A design of delicate Puri- tan simplicity, named for the first woman to set foot upon Plymouth Rock. Lady Constance The charm of distin- guished lines, with un- affected ornament to soften their severity marks this pattern. ‘Virginia Carvel A deeply-etched floral decoration here frames a spacious panel to dis- play the owner’s initial. AI BAS Pour pieces of Louts xiv Sterling IMPORTANT definitions Via’ For your guidance, the fol- lowing definitions are given of terms used to describe * tableware containing silver: STERLING—a guarantee stamp. It says, ‘* This ar- ticle meets the U.S. Govern- ment standard of silver pu- rity.” SOLID — Silver ot Sterling purity all the way through, always bearing the Sterling stamp. PLATE,PLATEDWARE, SILVER PLATE — Ware composed of a base metal coated with a thin film of silver, HE illustrations show (1) a teaspoon of Sterling Solid Silver, and (2) asmail piece indicating the amount of silver used to coat a teaspoon of equal ; size in first grade plated i ware. There is about fifteen times as much silver in a set of Sterling (Solid) as in a corresponding set of first-grade plated ware, yet the cost of the Sterling is less than two and a half times as much. connoisseurs. And while you are studying the fork, notice the delightful curve and taper of the tines, the strength and character of the shoulders, and the per- fect balance of the piece as it rests in your fingers. If you could take apart the Towze knife, you would find that the handle, which perfectly fits the hand, is made of heavy, thick silver, needing no “filling? with pitch or cement, so often required with handles of thin silver which need backing. The exclusive scimitar-shaped blade of stainless steel is so firmly fixed in the handle that it will never loosen even in the hottest water. Beauty that transcends temporary fashion Silver which is merely fashionable is not always LOUIS XIV Louis XIV An extremely delicate, modern refinement of the rich motifs that char- especial of the Louis Quatorze period. MAT CH Lady Mary This decorative, yet simple, — derives istinction from acterized the decorations the dainty cartouche midway of the handle. 7 OTs 141 beautiful; but truly beautiful silver is always fashionable. When you have selected just the one TowLe pattern which best expresses your own taste, you will have that satisfying confidence which comes from calm assurance that you are right. Towte Silver is so/id silver and of course al- ways bears the Sterling stamp—the Tow Le Silver- smiths make no plated ware. A set of TowLe Solid Silver contains fifteen times as much silver as a set of first-grade plate, yet costs less than two and a half times as much, and the silver wi// never wear off, because it is solid all the way through. You may start with a small but very useful set of sixteen pieces at $42.85, or a very complete set of full dozens costing several hundred dollars, as your resources permit. TOWLE patterns ave permanent By starting with Tow te Silver, you can make sure of perfect silver harmony, for relatives and friends will undoubtedly want to match your chosen pat- tern with such charming and useful pieces as sauce and salad-dressing bowls, plates for jellies, candies, sandwiches, cake, fruit, desserts, etc. ; candle-sticks, travs or a coffee and tea service. They will be glad to know which Tow e pattern you have selected and your jeweler canshow thema fascinating variety. Furthermore, in the future, as you need addi- tions to your set, you will always find that match- ing it is a simple matter, for TowLe patterns are as nearly permanent as anything in this life cam be. May we send you this FREE booklet? We have prepared an attractive and useful booklet of information about silver, with photographs of correct table-settings, which will be of further help in guiding your selection. May we have the privi- lege of sending it to you without charge? Please ask for Booklet K, and address THE TOWLE SILVERSMITHS Newburyport, Massachusetts “D’Orleans This regal and costly pattern, with its striking beauty, was designed es- pecially for those who demand exclusiveness in all appointments. Pe ee oe ae La Gayette A model of that chaste early American beauty which years of posses- sion and use can only make more precious. PATTERN

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TEND tio rnctt AE AEA susarnndaaamntieas Reich 4 pet Le leans oaieinemmentennt 1 £ f ed NY A smart gown and A smart gown and 4 @ dowdy corset @ smart corset —— ype CAn AART which brinar | CORSETING up -to-dain | with CLOTHES The new Redfern Art of Corsetry is the art of suiting figures to the fashion: smoothing out diaphragm bulge, flattening the protruding lower figure, closely swathing unwieldy thighs. The Corset of Today, as exemplified in REDFERN creations, is poised at the hips and fits down around the lower part of the figure, leaving the waist fashionably and comfortably free. The first result of this loosened waistline is that diaphragm flesh, or the objectionable roll of flesh caused by tight-waisted corsets, drops down into place and is ultimately eliminated by the removal of old-fashioned pressure. This exclusive and revolutionary principle of anchoring the corset, not at the smallest but at the largest part of the figure, removes the tendency that so many corsets have to slide up out of place. Note the famous feature of Redfern design, the diagonal rubber thigh band which connects the front and back panels of the Wrap-Around* or Corselette,* exerting a two-way tension between diaphragm and lower back and flattening both. The creations of this art, so different from the clumsy contrivances which constitute ordinary corseting, are exclusive with REDFERN. Copies are likely to prove a disappointment. Look for the name on the original. *Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. The loosened waistline The diagonal i thigh band : atone cette at tenemos LZ Send for booklet, Department D, The Warner Brothers Company, 347 Madison Ave., New York City; 367 West Adams St. Chicago; 28 Geary St., San Francisco. ate >: A fm Ui ihn Le y f. Almost as old as her canals and quite as vital to her beauty are the lovely balconies of Venice THE BALCONIES OF VENICE By ESTELLE H. RIES EW features of the north Italian Bees are more gracious than the balconies which adorn so many of their buildings. With all the rare charm of Venice, one might wonder where much of it had gone if the delicately beautiful balconies project- ing over its waters were suddenly to disappear. As I stood late one night on my own Venetian balcony, wrapped in the sheer beauty of the moon-flecked -waters be- low and the silhouette of the Salute opposite my window, faint music drift- ing to me, I felt that the balcony fitted so idyllically into the setting that it might almost be regarded as a Venetian invention. Here, the narrow lanes and waterways left littlke room for the people to take the air in the normal way, and balconies were evolved to secure, from above, what was too diffi- cult to obtain at ground level. HISTORY OF THE BALCONY The manners of the early Greeks and Romans. I reflected, were for domestic privacy, and they had no im- pulse to build the little landings out- side their windows, from which to view the street below An occasional balcony was used in classic times, but I remembered that the “house with a balcony” stood out as something unique in the resurrected city of Pompeii. An even greater sense of seclusion marked the Oriental house, which had only a closely latticed window, rather for ven- tilaticn than outlook. In later times, a balcony appeared on the minaret, the upper story of which was set back to form a platform from which the azan. or call to prayer, might be chanted by the muezzin. Analogous to this, in Italy, we had been seeing the prominent and famous balconies erected on the town halls and looking out upon the public square. This point of vantage, we learned, was called the ringhiera, and is somehow related to our word, harangue. From here, the podesta, or the doge, or the ruling governor, whoever he might be. would address the people, give them the official news, the new laws, or any public notices. Even the severely chaste official palaces of Florence, although without any decorative balconies, would have the ringhiera, and this use is seen in many mediaeval towns, even w north as far as Brussels, Bruges, and elsewhere. Sometimes, I knew, balconies were adapted for more ceremonial pur- poses, as is that of Saint Peter’s, from which the pope gives his blessing. But it could not be only the love oi privacy that delayed the domestic use of balconies. The cold climate of th North must have been a further de- terrent, as was the heat of the South Later on, the military necessities of th Middle Ages prevented the develop- ment of anything so vulnerable. Thi mediaeval castle would construct in- terior galleries, fully roofed and guarded, yet projecting beyond the flat surface of the facade, so that its men could pour moulten lead and hot pitch through the holes in its flooring upon aggressors below, but one dislikes to consider these as ancestors of so de- lightful a device as a Venetian balcony. If the balcony was not actually in- vented by the Venetians, it is un- doubtedly true that in Venice and thos parts of northern Italy that came under her influence, balconies abound in th: finest examples. Verona, the city of Romeo and Juliet, possesses some ex- cellent types, and it is easy to imagine many tender and impassioned scenes, known only to the silver moon and to these balconies, where ladies hung and heard the sonnets of their serenaders. Along the Grand Canal, they are ‘ great help to romance, giving the pcr- fect touch to the perfect setting, afford- ing a background of soft, rich colour, 4 frame of delicate tracery, a conscious- ness of the rippling waters below and music in the air beyond. I wondered as I stood there, if perhaps, even tien some invisible young lovers might not be improving the fleeting moments with demonstrations of affection. SHADOWS ADD TO BEAUTY In the Venetian sunlight, these bal- conies lose a little of their mystery, but their beauty is franker and quite 4s real. As one’s gondola glides gently them, they cast their shadows over the building and into the water, adding 4 slight sense of movement that varie: from moment to moment and is ol constant interest. The details of the!’ richly carved brackets and supports. (Continued on page 144) ss BBG AIR a i aden ea eae Is yo scru that adr que: wor chai the bea

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VOGU; ICE even up ruges, and , balconies onial pur- ter’s, from essing. he love oi mestic use ate of th irther de- he South ties of th develop- ible. The struct in- fed and id the flat t its men hot pitch ring upon lislikes to of so de- 1 balcony. tually in- t is un- and. those me under nd in the e city of some ex- » imagine d_ scenes, yn and to hung and renaders. ey are a the per- g, afford- colour, a onscious- elow and vondered, ven tlien, 1ight nol ents with ry hese bal- stery, but quite as ently by over the adding 3 at vuries id is | ; of their yports, ol 4) September ra, EFS our Chin Line — must bear his closest scrutiny / Is yours the chin line of youth—or of age? A you always completely at ease, or are you ever worried by the scrutiny of many eyes? Can you be sure that others look upon you entirely with admiration, or do you ever imagine a questioning look—as though people are wondering whether lately you haven't changed a little? No longer need approaching age be the dread of every woman who cherishes beauty —and what woman does not? No longer is beauty the heritage of youth alone. Modern scientific methods, as _per- fected by Dorothy Gray, make it possi- ble for youth to retain its beauty, and for age to regain much of the charm that has been lost. Watch “‘the line of least resistance”’ The first danger sign is not so apt to be wrinkles or greying hair as a sagging of the chin line—for sa the chin line offers least resistance to the approach of age. This sagging of the chin line, by drawing other important muscles out of place, causes wrinkles. Dorothy Gray has invented a treatment that helps to restore youth and firmness to drooping muscles of the face and chin line. Women every- where are deeply gratified with the marvelous results from Miss Gray’s simple, healthful methods. You, too, can obtain the full benefits of Dorothy Gray's discoveries, either at the Dorothy Gray Studio in New York, or in your own home. If you don’t live in New York, Miss Gray writes you personally and suggests individual home treatment for your particular needs. She recommends the Dorothy Gray preparations best suited to your purposes. You can obtain these preparations at the leading store in your own city. Simply fill out the card below, and mail it to Dorothy Gray. DOROTHY GRAY PREPARATIONS Sold by the leading stores throughout the country. Ask any of them for a Dorothy Gray Book on Home Treatments or write direct to D bn Sifth Avenue Newlfork, i43 Ba” r. oo = 5 pe A i ee ttt aaa shaping “Beneath your chin your age is written.”’ These two photographs of the same woman show thata drooping chin line may be corrected. There is no reason why you should not obtain the same results. A Dorothy Gray Preparation for every need For softening and beautifying the skin and building up the tis- sues, there’s nothing more effective thann DOROTHY GRAY’S Tis- sue Cream. Especially beneficial for a sensitive skin. $1.00, $1.75. If your face is too thin, you will find DOROTHY GRAY’S Special Skin Food nourishing and fattening. Fills out hollows and wrin- kles; smooths the contours. $1.00, $1.75. Is your skin very dry? Then use this blend of rare ingredients — DOROTHY GRAY’S Special Mixture — combining the beautify- ing and strengthening qualities of skin food and oils so necessarily pen- etrating. $4.50. For patting in the lotions, skin foods and astringents, use DOROTHY GRAY’S Patter: It restores contours to sagging mus- cles by the true scientific method — by restoring the circulation. $2.50. You may make relaxed muscles firm by using DOROTHY GRAY’S Russian Astringent Cream, a lovely powder base, which at the same time contracts loose, flabby skin under the chin. $3.00, $5.50. DEAR MISS GRAY—Will you please write and tell me the prep- arations you recommend for my use. SPECIAL RECOMMENDATION CARD Read, check and mail to Dorothy | Gray, 753 Fifth Ave., New York City | Flabbiness and page under CJ Neck UUMNED eS ak wlcigddumhewawes on the chin. PRR eee Ae Sere Par Sagging Face ' Muscles oe ne en ie State:....V Many facial conditions require Pon medical attention and in such cases a physician should be consulted. First signs of slight droop oO under the chin Thin Face and A dry and Oo harsh skin O Enlarged pores 0 and black- CT heads Tan and Sal- low skin

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Se Aan 2 ia pe aagaaispirR ORE Hee «pia po BROS: BOS i se ns ma ae full lined with Peau Single - breaSted Shag- moor model (sketched) has crouch collar of Kit Fox; herring bone, di- agonal or plain fabric de Cygne; two rows of Stitching from shoul- ders to novelty double pockets. ws: hagqmoor TOPCOATS HE 100% pure wool Shagmoor fabric pro- vides warmth without weight. Sheds rain, dust and wrinkles with equal facility. Comes through any storm, or out ofa suitcase, retaining its well-tailored trimness. Shagmoor smartness of style and cleverness of design have won the approval of discriminating women everywhere. Every Shagmoor Topcoat bears the Shagmoor label. No other coat is a genuine Shagmoor. Write us today, for illustrated booklet descriptive of the new Fall Shagmoor creations. We'll gladly give you the name of a nearby shop where Shagmoor Top- coats may be purchased at pleasingly moderate prices, snder Bros. 498 Seventh Avenue and 205 West 36th Street, New York THE BALCONIES OF VENICE (Continued from page 142) their delicately wrought columns. of their sculptured ornament and _ their fine proportions are all better appreci- ated. It is unfortunate to have to record that many of the original Gothic bal- conies have perished, for any projection of this kind is earliest to suffer from its greater exposure. There are some dis- tinguished old balconies which may be described, one of which is the Palazzo Sagredo, which belonged to a distin- guished Dalmatian family that settled in Venice in the ninth century. Because of their fine military service, they were admitted to the Great Council in 1100. This family gave a saint to Hungary, a doge and a patriarch to Venice. While theirs was one of the earliest Gothic palaces here, it is badly defaced to-day. The balconies, however, have been re- stored, and they are characteristic. Delicate slender columns with carved capitals support a series of trefoils cut through a bar of stone. At either corner, two little lions are seated, and lions’ heads decorate the supporting brackets. One of the best preserved of the late Gothic balconies in Venice is that of the Palazzo Bragadin. Admirable for its symmetry and proportion, the de- tails are also delightful. Cherub faces smile in the end pilasters and in the spandrels of the trefoiled arches. The cornice of the balcony is surmounted by two seated lions, one at each corner, while over the piers which divide the columns into groups are strong, classic heads. This Palazzo was also the residence of a famous Venetian family, prominent among whom was Marcan- tonio Bragadin, the heroic defender of Famagosta. FAMOUS BALCONIES The fourteenth-century Contarini- Fasan Palace (which every gondolier will indicate as the house of Des- demona) has a charming balcony with rich, flamboyant tracery. The parapet has a peculiar wheel-like ornament that is unique. It is a little house, and its relation to Desdemona is quite fictitious, gondoliers to the contrary. Our William Dean Howells lived in the Casa Falier, where he wrote much of his “Venetian Life,” in which he describes his “dear little balcony” very lovingly. Just across the way, in one of the Giustiniani palaces, Wagner came to work in quiet, and, in his autobiography, he says, ““When I gazed down from my balcony with growing satisfaction on the wonderful canal, I said to myself that here I would com- plete ‘Tristan’.” Neighbouring this is the Rezzonico Palace, in which Robert Browning died. During his earlier visit there with Elizabeth Barrett Browning, she too expressed her praise of the Venetian balconies. “I have been,’ she wrote, “between heaven and earth since our arrival at Venice. The heaven of it is ineffable. Never had I touched the skirts of so celestial a place. The beauty of the architecture, the silver trails of water up between all that gorgeous colour and carving, the en- chanting silence, the moonlight, the music, the gondolas—I mix it all up together, and maintain that nothing is like it, nothing equal to it, not a second Venice in the world.” THE PALACE OF A POET The Rezzonico was designed by Longhena, the architect of Sainte- Maria della Salute, and was the home of Carlo Rezzonico, who became Pope Clement XIII. The Emperor Joseph II. also lived here for a time. Byron’s palace, Mocenigho, likewise, had its balcony, and it was occupied by Byron and his second mistress, Mar- garita Cogni, the baker’s wife. In his youth, Byron adored Venice and re- ceived here the inspiration for some of his finest work. Beppo, Mazzeppa, Marino Faliero, The Two Foscari, much of Childe Harold and Don Juan and other things to-day remembered, had their inception here. Among the Venetian balconies that are charming, without reference to their occupancy, may be mentioned those of the Palazzo Orfei. The ex- quisite low reliefs with their delicate carving, that adorn the parapet, are Renaissance of the fifteenth century and, I think, can hardly be improved on. Another delightful balcony, also of the Renaissance, appears on the second floor of the Palazzo Manzoni, which again satisfies every esthetic necessity, rising just beyond a little garden and lacking nothing of its complement of decoration. The [Palazzo Malipiero also attracts attenticn by its lovely lower balcony with its inlay of por- phyry, serpentine, and verde antico, even though time has dimmed _ its brilliance. CONVENIENCE AND BEAUTY One of the most conspicuously lovely of all the Venetian palaces is the Ca d@’ Oro, an ornate building of the type of the Doge’s Palace. The lace-like deli- cacy of its slender columns has the light fairy grace that one identifies with the Grand Canal in all one’s retrospections of Venice. For a really comfortable balcony, there should be an unbroken edge atop the balustrade, upon which the arm may rest. The balustrade that is either pierced into some kind of tracery or else composed of small pillars support- ing the arm rest, has advantages over a balcony with a solid parapet. The latter type is heavier in appearance and lacks the beautiful aerial quality that charms the eye. It is not so comfort- able, as the more open type, either, for by experimenting one finds that one becomes quickly tired of leaning over a balcony unless the foot can be occa- sionally relaxed, below the ledge, where the arm rests. Where the parapet is solid, this is impossible. The lower openings enable one to see below, with- out the discomfort of leaning over a ledge. These qualities have all been considered in the later Venetian bal- conies, so that they combine conveni- ence with their decorative beauty. THE USE OF IRON IN VENICE After the fifteenth century, iron came into use. Its strength, lightness, and transparency, the ease with which balconies of iron could be added to existing buildings, and the small space required by them, presented advantages that were promptly put to use. It would be fascinating to chronicle the innumerable other palaces with balconies that have contributed to the art and history of not only Venice, but, indirectly, Europe as well, and to ela- borate on the fund of anecdote and lore that might be gathered. From the ex- citing days when Venice was the throb- bing centre of the western world, to the milder scenes of the canal to-day, ther« has been much to tempt the imagina- tion. Outstanding lines, binding thai past with this to-day, are the balconies distinctive and vital to the beauty o! Venice. VOGUE xe Norfol North:

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Ost) yh ewise, ied by Mar- [In his d re- me of zeppa, yscari, Juan bered, ; that me atop arm either ry or )port- ver a The e and that nfort- ither, it one over occa- where yet is lower with- ver 2 been - bal- Wveni- came . and which ed to space itages onicle with o the , but » ela- d lore ie eX- hrob- to the ther¢ gina- - thai onies ity ol September 15, 192 Cantilever Stores Cut this out for reference Akron—I1 Orpheum Arcade (Main & Market) Albany —Hewett's Silk Shop. 65 Columbia st ‘(cor. N. Pearl) Allentown— _$s5 Hamilton St. Altoona — Bendheim's, 1302 Eleventh Ave. Atlanta—126 Peachtree Arca Atlantic City—2019 Boardwalk (near Shelburne Auburn, N. Y.— nbu: Augusta, Ga.—Saxon-' Cullum a Co. Baltimore—316 North Charles St. Bangor —John Conners ~— Co. Bay City—D. Bendall Berkeley—The Booterie — Binghamton—Parlor City Shoe Co. Birmingham —319 North 20th St. Boston—109 Newbury St., cor. Clarendon St. Bridgeport — 1025 Main St. a floor) Brockton— Model Shoe Stor: Brooklyn—516 Fulton St. (Heaenee Place) Buffalo—641 Main St. wang — St.) Cedar Rapids—The Killi Charleston, W. Va. John! vee ‘Shoe Co. Charlotte—226 North Tryon 162 N. State St. (ad floor ag Bidg. hicago— {t0so Leland (near Broadw: 6410 Cottage Grove Ave. Woodlawn) incinnati—The McAlpin Co. leveland—1705 Euclid Ave. colorado Springs —Wulff Shoe “ solumbia, S. C.—Watson Shoe Columbus, O.—104 E. Broad St. “at 3rd) vallas— Medical Arts Bldg. ranville, Hl. oe & Meyer savenport—M. L. Parker Co. vayton—The Rike- cuter Co. yenver —224 Foster Bidg. es Moines—W. L. White Shoe Co. Yetroit—2038 Park Ave. (at Elizabeth St.) subuque—J. F. Stampfer Co. rulut 107 West First St. (near Ist Ave. W. aston—Horace Mayer, 427 Northampton St. lizabeth—258 North Broad St. imira—C. W. O'Shea rie—Weschler Co., ‘S10 State ~y vanston—North Shore Booter: vansville—310 South 3rd St. (neat Main) Cargo— Hall-Allen Shoe Co. itchburg—W. C. Goodwin, 342 Main St. ort Wayne—Mathias App’ ’s Sons resno—The Bootery rand Rapids—Herpolsheimer Co. jreensboro, N. C.—Robt. A. Sills Co. lamilton, Ont.—8 — = North (cor. King) larrisburg—217 No. ‘lartford—Trumbull & Church Sts. taverhill—Bennett & C folyoke—Thos. S. Childs, 275 High St. Houston—205 Foster-Bank Sorgag ea Bidg. Huntington, W. Va.—McMahon-Diehi ‘ndianapolis—L. S. Ayres & Co. {chaca—Rothschild Bros. tackson, Mich.—L. H. Field Co. acksonville,Fla. —24 Hogan St.,opp. Seminole Hotel jersey City—Bennett’s, 411 Central Ave. Johnstown, Pa.—Zang's Kalamazoo—The Bell Shoe House Kansas City, Mo.—300 Altman Bldg. Knozville— Spence Shoe Co. Lansing—F. N. ear gh Co. Lawrence, Mass.—Geo. Lord & Son Lexington, Ky.—Denton, Ross, Todd Co Lima—The Sill Shoe Co. Lincoln—Mayer Bros. Co. Little Rock—417 Main St. (Pugh Bidg.) Long Beach, Cal.—536 Pine A ve. Los An) eles —728 Hill St. Louisville—Boston Shoe Co. Lowell—The Bon Marche Macon— Macon Shoe Madison, Wis.—Family Shoe Store Manchester, N. H.—Wm. Marcotte Co. Memphis—28 No. Second St. Meriden, Conn.—Brown Shoe Co. Miami—Dickins Shoe Store Milwaukee—Brouwer Shoe Montgomery —Campbe! joe Co. Montreal— Keefer Bide. a eet Catherine, W.) Morristown, N. J.—G. W. Melick Mount Vernon, N. Y.—A. J. Rice & Co. Nashville—J. A. Meadors & Sons Newark —897 Broad St., (2nd ae New Bedford — Olympia Shoe Shop New Castle, Pa.—229 E. Washington St. New Haven—190 ya St. (near Court) New Orleans—109 Baronne St. (Room 200) Newport, R. = Fogg! a 226 Thames St. jl it. (opp. dg Library) New York— 3 ‘Third Ave: (152nd St. (13 John St. (Bet. B’way & Wealden Norfolk — Pm & oe lel ad Northampton—E. Alber Oakland —516-15th St. ll City Hall) Omaha—1708 Howard St. Ottawa, Ont.—Murphy- Gamble, Ltd. Pasadena—378 E. Colorado St. Passaic—4 Lexington Ave. (at Erie Depot Paterson—18 Hamilton St. (opp. Regent Theatre) P. awtucket —Evans & Young Peoria—105 So. Jefferson St. (Lehmann Bldg.) Philadelphia— 1932 Chestnut St. Pittsburgh—The Rosenbaum Pittsfield—Fahey’s, 234 North St. Plainfield—M. C. Van Arsdale Portland, Me.—Palmer Shoe Co. Pc ortland, Ore.—322 Washington St. P —Louis Sc P. rovidence— gs Boston Store Reading—Sig. S. Schweriner Richmond, Va. —Seymour 4 Roanoke—I. Bachrach Shoe Rochester, N. Y. Nese Main eg E. (3rd floor) Rockford—D. J. Stewart & Co. St. Joseph, Mo. SSN. 7th (Arcade Bidg.) St. Lovis—516 Arcade Bldg. (opp. P. O.) St. Paul—43 E. 5th St. \rederte Hotel) Sacramento—1012 K Street Saginaw—Goeschel- caieer Co. Salt Lake City—Walker Bros. Co. San Diego—The Marston Co. San Francisco—127 — St. San Jose—Hoff Santa Barbara— Smith's ‘8 5 Boscery Savannah—Globe Shoe Co. Scranton—Lewis & Reilly Se eattle—Baxtet & Baxter Shreveport—Phelps Shoe Co. Sioux City—The Pelletier Co. Ss South Bend— pperened Store pokane—The Cresc Sp ringfield, Ill. 2% W. ‘Klahol Stockton—Dunne’s Shoe Store 330 E. Main Syracuse—121 West Jefferson St. Tacoma—255 So. 11th St. (Fidelity Trust Bidg.) loledo—LaSalle & Koch Co. fopeka—The Pelletier Store I sronto—7 —— St. East (at Yonge) Trenton—H. M. Voorhees & Bro. roy—35 Third St. Gnd floor) Te ulsa—Lyon’s Shoe Store Utica—28 & 30 Blandina a eae Union \ ancouver—Hudson’s Ba \ashington—1319 F Street Gna floor) " aterbury— Tg pee es \stertown, N. Y.—Berow & Monroe heeling—Geo. R. Taylor Go ‘ hite Plains—Gedney ase — Wilkes Barre—M. F. ge \illiamsport—John B. g~ anid Wilmington, Del. —Kennard- -Pyle Co. \\ innipeg—Hudson’s Bay Worcester—J. C. MacInnes Co. Yonkers—22 Main St. York—The Bon Ton Youngstown—B. McManus Co. Agencies in 405 other cities

Go to one of the stares above or write the manufacturers, —_ & Burt Co., 406 Wil- loughby Avenue, Brooklyn, N. Y., for the address of a more ‘conveniently Jocated Cantilever agency. 5

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ecapessaiingter sis shen ee ee her Mothers who work overtime —with a Smile No eight-hour day for you mothers! From early morning, until the last bed-time story is told; each day is step—step— step—upstairs and down—up and down—all day long. No wonder so many mothers get foot weary in shoes that bind and restrict the feet. Mothers say they never knew what foot comfort was until they discovered helpful Cantilever Shoes. Now they know— as do thousands of other women—the joy of foot freedom, the buoyant arch support, which Cantilevers give. Through Cantilever Shoes, women are learning that energy and foot comfort are closely related. Cantilevers are comfortable because they are lasted to fit naturally and are flexible from toe to heel. They conform easily to the shape of the feet and function with them. They keep normal feet active and encourage weak feet to regain strength through natural exercise. Cantilever Shoes for Fall and Winter offer you a fine selec- tion of attractively designed models that will appeal to your good taste as well as your practical desire for foot comfort. There are modish pumps in a variety of designs and several trim oxfords for utility wear. Cantilevers are quality shoes manufactured of fine leathers by workmen skilled in the art of making flexible-arch shoes. Long wear and reasonable prices make Cantilevers an excellent investment for the woman to whom economy is as interesting as good looks and comfort. antilever Shoe

Your Flexible Foot The flexible arch of the Cantilever Shoe is skillfully lasted to fit the undercurve of the foot. It gives springy support and harmonizes with the foot action. This permits ial exercise of the muscles upon which the strength of the foot depends. The graceful, natural lines and the pleasing rounded toe of the Cantilever add to your pleasure. Your toes have room. Your footis free. The heel of the shoe scienti- fically distributes the weight of the bodyevenly,taking the strain off the inner (and weaker) side of the foot. Cantilevers have been sold for = a decade and are endorsed by’ physicians health authorities and wearers. They have brought foot health to countless people. You can wear Cantilever Shoes with every assurance that they are built on sound principles. And you will like their modish lines.

© A Flexible Shoe For ©

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Fashion’s Coy Girdle For the “Roll ’em” Vogue OLLED hose and multi-colored garters are part of the smart comfort mode—but the ensemble is not complete with- out the charming PERFOLASTIC Clasp around. Here is a light, exquisite girdle that imparts grace and poise to the figure and still permits elastic activity. Fash- ioned of feather-weight but exceedingly durable piantation rubber of superfine quality and modeled by a Parisian Corsetiere. Won't split, tear or rip— and PERFORATED to admit health and air to the skin. For the woman who loves the rolling fairway, the graceful follow-through, the tennis court or just elysian comfort on lounge, stroll or dance floor there is no smarter or more exquisite girdle. A gartered model, too—for the con- servative sister. OFr ee Sample of the perforated rubber and a charming brochure on written request. PERFOLASTIC, Inc. 225 West 57th Street, New York City MODELS: Step-In (New); Clasp-Around; Front and Back Lace; Bathing and Sport Model; Brassiere; Diaphragm Vanisher; Abdominal Belt PERFOLASTIIC Rubber Girdle ee T GS ie The dance bowl at Brioni is a gorgeous setting where nightly onc may dance to the accompaniment of exquisite music, moonlight. and the murmur of the Adriatic BAGT OF VENICE IS BRIONI By KATHERINE MULLIN FF the beaten track of European resorts. Somewhere new. A place where there is something to do. A sum- mer resort with a musical-comedy at- mosphere. Not too many Americans and English. Those were our stipulations. We had followed the seasons around the reg- ular route in Europe for a year. We had “done” the Riviera. We had drunk the waters and listened to the band at Aix-Les-Bains. We had wintered in Switzerland. We had looked at the red rock of the Dolomites. Then we talked to the Marchesa N. and told her what we wanted. “Go to Brioni,’ she said. “It is the new place in Europe for le sport. You can have golf, tennis, riding. You will wear bathing-suits and pyjamas all day, and evening dresses all night. It is an island on the eastern side of the Adriatic; the Deauville of Vienna be- fore the War, but now owned by Italy.” WE SET SAIL So, one summer afternoon, the Grand Canal splashed merrily against our bouncing gondola as we set forth from our hotel in Venice to board a big white boat anchored in the Lagoon. It looked like Sir Somebody’s yacht, but it was the Fiume steamer, and it was going to take us to Brioni. Our cumbersome luggage was jaunt- ily tossed aboard by Alessic, most her- culean of gondoliers, craftily judging at just which wave to hurl a wardrobe trunk from his gondola up to the steamer, all with much loud conver- sation of an uncomplimentary nature, between him and the Adriatic seaman who caught them on the fly. We set sail. We looked back at the pink sunset behind the Campanile and San Marco. Would our unknown island be worth leaving the Venetian summer ? Could we find anything better than the beach at the Lido in the morning, twi- light and aperitifs at Florians, and the moon over the Salute at night? At midnight, after seven hours go- ing east across the Adriatic, we were dropped into a dark little tender from the shaky steps let down over the side of our yacht-like craft. We could see the Istrian shore and the lights in the distance that were Brioni. Some Aus- trians from the Tyrol were with us in the tender, a pale Italian princess from Rome, and her two pale daughters with long black hair. We peered through the darkness at the lights. We came close to the shore. The scene looked hopeful. There was a black and white dance terrace over the sea. A Viennese band was playing a Kalmann waltz. There were little tables along the sea wall, with coloured lamps shining on tall, sleek men, wear- ing monocles, and smart women in eve- ning dresses that looked like the last word from Paris. Blond stewards in white suits hurried about with tall, cool drinks and ices. A gay quartet in kimonos and dressing-gowns came dashing down to the pier. They all! jumped out of their robes and, in bright green swimming suits. splashed into the sea for a midnight dip. We registered and wrote our life his- tories in the office. It was a babel of German, French, and Italian, and queer Balkan languages. It was a bit of a relief to hear two Englishmen discuss golf and whiskeys and soda. The old home language sounded good to us. Three vivacious Italian girls left a call for horses at seven. The pale princi- pessa, just arrived, argued about her rooms in French, with the Austrian Direktor. OUR FIRST DAY We spoke in Italian to the porter who carried our bags upstairs. “You not sprech English?” he askec. “Me, I sprech English better as I sprech Italian. Please sprech English to me. Italian no good.” And _ he sniffed at the language of Dante, and the look in his eye was not one ol! international love. “This place Austrian—only the peas- ants are Italian,” he continued, setting our bags down. He puffed up and looked military. “The Austrian Kaiser came often to this island. The Arch- duke Ferdinand was here before he went to Sarajevo and was shot.” We later called this militant Magyar (Continued on page 150) VOGUE Sep é 1 L l Fi { ‘ Ee: 1 q y 5 ; J ¢ T . c a S knittir § ings of Her e Cortic too m all the TT! ust stockir shade i able le: ings of newest For : leather Aztec é

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NI in the » Aus- us in ; from ‘S$ With ess at shore. ‘e Was e over laying little loured wear- n eve- ie last rds in h tall, rtet in came ey all 1d, in lashed fe his- bel of | queer a ae liscuss he old to us. a call yrinci- ut her istrian porter asked. as I nglish nd he e, and me of - peas- setting p and Kaiser Archi- mre he Tagyar September STOCKINGS MATCH \ FOR STREET True beige, kasha, maple cream and biscuit divide favor with the beiges that have a rosy tinge—bisque, DuBarry, rose beige and blonde. Corticelli offers in these shades a semi- chiffon stocking, style 322, and two sheer chiffons, 308 and 107, the latter with the newest Paris openwork clock. «( NTOCKINGS for evening may match the slippers or the skin.” The dictum went forth from Paris and immediately the Corticelli mills were busy knitting the lustrous Corticelli silk into exquisite stock- ings of the very colors that Paris endorses. Here are the latest hosiery dicta which gave to Corticelli its cue for fall. If you follow the oracle you too may be sure that your stockings are as smart as all the other lovely details of your costume. TAN or beige walking pumps are in favor this fall, usually plain, but often in combination. The stockings may match the light pumps or the lighter shade in two-toned pumps. To wear with these fashion- able leather shades you should choose Corticelli stock- ings of beige, kasha, mandarine, blonde, biscuit and, newest of all, bisque, DuBarry and rose beige. For your russet shoes, if you insist on matching the leather, Corticelli has provided three shades— Mecca, Aztec and russet. Srockines of beige in pure silk semi-chiffon, the color of the lighter leather, are just the right weight and quality to go with these fascinating pumps. The new shoe colors, just as Sast as they appear, are matched by the fashionable shades of * Corticelli hosiery. tre. SLIPPERS FOR EVENING An exquisite hand-embroidered maiden hair fern Facquard lace, style 161, shares honors with a filmy chiffon, style 308, and French-clocked chiffons, style 107. Among the Corticelli col- ors for evening are shell, light pink, cherub, bisque, maple cream, rose beige, daybreak and manve, But the stockings need not match the shoes unless one chooses. The latest advice from Paris says that hosiery may match the skin instead. You will be amused to discover whether your coloring is bisque or light pink, shell, cherub or nude. ‘ FoR afternoon or evening, invariably clocks” comes the word from Paris. And Corticelli, in stvle 107, is showing the very clock the Parisienne wears; just the daintiest, cobwebbiest little openwork decora- tion imaginable in exquisite chiffon hose. Luxurious and beautiful, Corticelli stockings are fashioned to fit as snugly as one’s skin. You will marvel at the clear even texture, the gleaming love- liness and the perfection of service which the famous Corticelli silk produces. You can get Corticelli hose at any first class department store. Or we will be glad to send you the name of your nearest dealer. Write us today—The Corticelli Silk Com- pany, 286 Nonotuck Street, Florence, Mass. Tuese jilmy stockings with their exquisite Jacquard lace panels and touches of hand em- broidery are favorites for wed- dings and debutante dances. The pair shown come in shell or white to wear with the satin slippers which have rhinestone buckles. ORTICELLI

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VOGU;E BLANKET by KENWOOD The luxurious comfort of pure, select- ed, long-fibre wool in a weave and finish that give a wonderfully soft, fleecy texture and extra warmth with light weight. The decorative advantage of lovely soft tones of Blue, Pink, Orchid, Tan, Rose, Gold and Green, in checks and solids—set off by broad satin ribbon binding at ends. IMPORTANT NOTICE: You may now obtain Kenwood STYLE B Blankets at about one-third less than the price of Style A. They are thoroughly serviceable—all wool. pre-shrunk but bound with Satiline and without the mothproofing, range of —— and individual boxing of Style A. Rose, Tan and ue only. In keeping with the Kenwood policy of pro- viding every detail that shall insure satis- faction throughout years of service, is the fact that the blankets are MOTHPROOF. The wool itself is made immune from attack by moths. Leading Department Stores and Gift Shops maintain interesting exhibits of Kenwood Blankets, Baby Blankets, Slumber Throws and Blanket Bath Robes. KEN WOOo}]) Let us send you the Kenwood Comfort Catalog which pictures the blankets in color and shows all of the many interesting Pure Wool items. Please address Department V. KENWOOD MILLS, ALBANY, N. Y. KENWOOD MILLS LTD., Arnprior, Ontario, Can. PRODUCTS KENWOOD west BLANKETS BEAUTY and COMFORT are WOVEN IN Ti Until Simm uriou: spring Only spring small, act fri body, Twin sway ,

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™*ACE Until you experience the comfort of The Simmons Ace, you cannot know how lux- urious and restful it is possible for a bed- spring to be. For these reasons: Only in The Ace are 99 deep main spirals spring-tied at tops and centers with 302 small, lively coils. Thus the main spirals act freely, shape to the curves of your body, coax every muscle to relax and rest. Twin stabilizers, patented, prevent side- sway and spreading. A stout top border Remember: One-third of your life is spent in bed wire keeps the edges trim. The frame has round corners: built of heavy angle steel, double-riveted, it will not twist out of true. Though worth more, The Ace is no higher in price than springs that lack its ease and life. Huge production cuts its cost to you. See The Ace at your merchant’s. Compare it. Write for our “Restful Bedrooms” booklet describing Simmons beds, springs and mattresses, to The Simmons Com- pany, 666 Lake Shore Drive, Chicago. SIMMONS CE is the finest open box spring built yet its lasting comfort costs no more 1. Round corners fit both straight and bowfoot beds. Cannot tear the bed-clothes. 2. Sensitive cotls—142 more than in any other bedspring —join the main spirals at tops and centers. No stiff wire ties. 3. The main sptrals of tempered spring steel wire are made eight inches deep for great resiliency. As lofty as a box spring. 4. Patented twin stabilizers, at either side, eliminate side-sway and sagging. Beds Mattresses Springs and Bedroom Furniture BED SPRING + Built for Sleep +

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o She aN as (Belg En yt Diana design in Rose Sea Pearl Effect Here's the final touch of beauty your room needs—Fuberloid NO matter how delightful your bed- rooms may be, their dressing tables demand artistictoiletwareto complete their beauty. And when the eyes of your friends fall upon a stunning set of Fiberloid toilet- ware, its color subtly harmonizing or smartly contrasting with the room’s hang- ings and appointments, they recognize at once your good taste and good judgment. For Fiberloid toiletware comes in a rich range of charming colors and smart Paris- inspired designs. Daintiest of all, per- haps, is the new Sea Pearl effect, which marvelously combines the opalescent sheen of the Orient pearl with sky blue (Azure), with a warm coral (Coraline), with a rosy pink (Rose), or with white (Alba). Then there is the novel and lovely Nacara, a more striking treatment of the pearl effect, which comes in fashionable Golden, Rose, and Smoke Pearl shades. Many also admire the two-tone com- bination Ivory on Amber, Shell on Amber and Pearl on Amber Fiberloid. Then there are the — Ivory, Amber and Tortoise— some decorated with carvings or gold decorations, others severely beautiful. From this splendid variety you can easily select the particular color and design that will add the crowning beauty to your room. Ask at your favorite store to be shown Fiberloid Toiletware, or write us and we will gladly tell you the name of the dealer who can serve you. The Fiberloid Corporation, Indian Orchard, Mass. lew York Display Rooms, 402 Fifth Avenue “\.. Toronto Display Rooms, 145 Adelaide St. West, FIBERLOID The Coraline Sea Pearl Effect D> |] sels Sion Se teGe meme BO

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ee ae “ seein inte 1S CC RCN or Of all the Houbigant odors, this very feminine woman, who loves luxury and rose hangings, prefers Mon Boudot?—$2.25, $4.25 and $8.00. With it, she uses Houbigant Face Powder— $1.50—in the same Fs : grance—5 shades to choose ~ trom. Houbigant Com- pacts, powder and rouge— $1.50¢ach; and Houbigant Lipstick, two shades—$1.25 —are always to be found in her smart handbag. © © et Oe recede em eee Oe ee — 7 2 en merce am 8 een oeerrieapanasetenitttter tones nena elon 4% tem | iw tera @ if il WOMEN WHOSE TASTE IS EXQUISITELY CRITICAL have demanded the perfume of Houbigant for a hundred and fifty years. Not alone in those exotic and delicious essences that all the world knows, but diffused in powders for the face and the bath, blended into creams of soothing and delicate texture. Houbigant, too, has made the most perfect rouges and lipsticks, the smartest compacts to carry in the purse—enshrining them in crystal or gold containers that delight the eye with their sense of luxury wedded to fastidiousness. The Rose-Petalled Dressing Table of the mondaine into whose boudoir we are per- mitted to look contains Quelques Fleurs per- fume for her lighter daytime moods, Mon Boudoir foroccasions moreintimate.She has alsochosenLeTemps desLilasCréme—fresh, cool and soothing. Thesmaller box contains her face powder; the larger, with its orange and goldrosebuds, herdusting powder, in Le Parfum Ideal. If you wish it, you may write to Houbigant for that sophisticated little booklet, “Things Perfumes Whisper,” in which her secret is completely revealed, we HOUBICANT § PARIS HOUBIGANT, Inc., 16 W. 49th Street, New York HOUBIGANT, Lrp., 46 St. Alexandre Street, Montreal

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hen ships come ino A fond hope in the heart of every maiden is realized by the possession of beautiful silver- plate. Holmes & Edwards Super Plate-Inlaid is unexcelled for its enduring quality and ex- quisite designs. Holmes & Edwards Super Plate is different. Every piece is heavily plated with pure silver si ce ci and in addition those most often used have Solid i a — Silver-Inlaid under the plate at the two rest — ee points to insure permanent satisfaction.

? Shows Silver Inlaid. Inlaid \ : L Underthe Plate Silverplate from the House of HOLMES §EDWARDS

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September 15, IF ZS Lixg a jewel, sparkling crystal holds—and at the same time tadiates—beauty. Clever hostesses are discovering this wonder- ful decorative value of fine glassware and are using it much more for formal and informal table service. Fostoria is sold in the finest shops at moderate prices. There is gold-banded Fostoria crystal in keeping with finest linen; fragile Fostoria crystal with lace-like etching; clear amber, green, blue or canary Fostoria glass. Whether you want dinner goblets, a bowl for flowers or the newest thing in ice cream plates, ask for Fostoria. It comes in sets like china or silver; you can match your pieces. . . . There is always a Fostoria answer to a gift problem! . . . A gay looking ‘‘Little Book About Glassware’’ describes the etiquette of the glassware service and gives you much precious information about the artful use of fine crystal. Send for it today. Address—The Fostoria Glass Company, Moundsville, W. Va. toria CRYSTAL AND DECORATED GLASSWARE Cracker and cheese dish, blue and gold decoration; irides- cent compote; irides- cent vase with blue foot. Every piece of Fostoria glassware leaves our factory bearing this brown and white label.

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150 BELDING’S SILKS WEAR WELL Cuooss silks with Belding’s woven in the sel- vage—you are guaranteed three very definite things which cannot be judged by the looks: 1. Belding’s Silks will not split or crack because they are free from injurious weighting; 2. All Belding’s Silks clean perfectly and the light shades wash; 3. All Belding’s Silks can be re-dyed suc- cessfully. Think what this means to you—espe- cially if you do your own sewing! Buy enough Belding’s Silks for a simple dress and a bit of lin- gerie—wear them, wash them, clean or re-dye them—and you will understand why RIE PT ne Fara to so many women, “es ® good silk for ev- ery purpose always Belding’s. RO ap wk Hi in RRR: eo Saw ge ema Belding Byros. & Co. 902 Broadway, N.Y. AURA a RN ani ie 4: RG Neder Raltiladie*Saee Be sure to sew with silk Silk is strong Beldino’s Gabrics, Embroidery, Spool Silks By day, the bathing pavilion at this playground in the Adriatic is the centre of gaiety for the merry-makers who gather there, pyjama and kimono-clad EAST OF VENICE IS BRIONI (Continued from page 146) “Pom Pom.” He said that the War was very tiresome. He fought with the Austrians against the Roumanians, and it was nothing but “Pom! pom! pom! pom! all the time.”” And he made violent gestures indicating the shrapnel that bounced off his sturdy frame. The mornirg after our midnight ar- rival, we I-_«xed out from our windows and saw our first pyjama breakfast party. At little white tables under red- and-white umbrellas, with a_ terrific buzz of early morning polite conversa- tion, sat Brioni, having its coffee and rolls and honey, a Brioni entirely in pyjamas or kimonos. Such pyjamas and kimonos! Orange with wide blue stripes; red and yellow in_ cubist blocks; black and white in its utmost dash. There sat a family discussing the news in a paper two days old, just over from Pola. Father was in his yel- low pyjamas, a monocle in his eye, his stick beside his chair, his straw hat under the table. Mother wore bright blue silk pyjamas, high-heeled blue kid slippers, and a purple band around her short yellow hair. Their daughter, aged eighteen, was in her pink flowered silk “walking suit,” a sleeveless thing reaching almost to six inches above her knees. ETIQUETTE IN THE SEA At ten o’clock, we fell in behind the informal parade of bathers and strolled to the pavilion, a white stucco crescent- shaped building that reminded one of India. Kimonos, pyjamas, and walking suits were hung up in bath-houses, and in one-piece suits every one step- ped decorously into the salty warm water of the sea. Even in the water, the Austrians never lost their code of formal manners. If Herr S. had been formally introduced, no bow could surpass his. He came to a complete “half,” clicked his heels, and bowed from the waist. Likewise, the bow of Frau S., if she knew you, was a most gracious bending of her head. But, without an introduction, only a stony stare met one and then through lorg- nettes. They never relaxed in this. I watched Herr S. in the water. He wore only trunks, a purple and white rubber cap tied under his chin, and, of course, his monocle. He stood in water up to his chest. When he saw some one he knew, swimming or splashing by, he did his best to accomplish his bow, even though the extreme saltiness of the Adriatic made his heels so buoyant that clicking was almost impossible. I played golf every afternoon, and I always went early so that I could get Maria for my caddy. Why are there no girl caddies in America? Italy specializes in them, and Maria, aged nine, was the best of them all. She brought housekeeping habits to the links, which might irritate some players. She was always dashing off to a water hazard to wash my ball fo: me or to clean a club. LITTLE MARIA, CADDY “E lavata, le palle, Signora,”’ she would say, running back, beaming, and showing me my old ball with a new scrubbed look. Her ideas of le sport were full of common sense. If I had a bad lie, she changed my ball to a better position. I admonished her about this, sternly so that my opponent could hear. Then she did it only when we were not looking. And how Maria’s limpid brown Italian eyes could find balls that went into the rough! Also efficient were the eyes of Iacinto and Pietro and Mar- garita and Beppina, and all the other boy and girl caddies. The news had not yet reached them that it is «d- visable to hide balls and to sell them later and make money. I did not !ose a ball there in six weeks. If, a‘ter Maria searched in the woods, or waded up to her hips in the inlet where bulls always went, I said “Come along, we'll let that one go,” she looked annoyed at my haste and extravagance. The day after, when she saw me coming along the path to the club- house, she ran out to meet me, holding up a ball and saying with triumph. “See Signora, your ball! I went back yesterday and found it!” Once, when she caddied for sme one else, she rushed across to me with more than her usual exuberance. “You remember, Signora, the ball you lost the first day you were here, in the woods? I have often looked for it, and to-day I prayed to San Antonio and found it!” (Continued on page 176) Septe | pink! It is i little ac ness tha stands s So sh tipped : stodgy \ assuranc ing up selves. smooth, ance the the glow Lone ag wonderf quickly v and rem« Marvellor paste tha the daint’ which her Now th well-groor choice for fashion de Created Preparatic this liquid C tha. Jou ed

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GUE yNI by, he lis bow, iness of buoyant ssible. on, and T could Vhy are merica? Maria, 1em all. abits to te some ig off to ball for ra,” she ing, and . a new full of lie, she 90sIition. sternly r. Then ere not brown lat went vere the id Mar- he other ~ws had is ad- ell them not lose if, after r waded are balls ng, we'll annoyed saw me ie club- holding riumph, nt back yr some me vith pe. the ball re here, oked for Antonio ) September 15, 1925 Barurant finger tips—gaily pink! It is in the choice of such happy little accents to personal loveli- ness that the knowing Parisienne stands supreme. So she gaily flaunts her rose- tipped fingers in the face of a stodgy world, and feels complete assurance that her hands are liv- ing up to their very loveliest selves. Hands lily-white and smooth, capped with a rosy radi- ance that is bright as a smile or the glowing dawn. Lone ago she discovered Cutex—the wonderfulantisepticliquidthat quickly vanquishes dead, dry cuticle and removes every hint of stain. Marvellous polishes! And a delicate paste that whitens the nail tips. All the dainty toiletries for her hands in which her feminine heart delights. Now this latest exquisite finish for well-groomed nails—Cutex Liquid Polish—is her choice for the sophisticated pink brilliance that fashion demands. Created by the originator of these marvellous Preparations that are used all over the world— this liquid polish is so perfect in every detail that — quickly removes all the dead, dry skin tha! tightens around the nail base, leaving your nails prettily framed in firm white ovals CUTEX MANICURE Nortuam Warren, Dept. V-9 114 West 17th St., New York City send me the Introductory Set. IN PARIS more women use this smart liquid polish than any other in Paris, itself, the home of smart toiletries, more of it is sold than any other liquid polish. After properly filing the nails, carefully shaping and softening the cuticle, and bleaching the nail tips, she buffs her nails smooth with the powder END 6c for Introductory Set containing Cutex Liquid Polish, the famous Cuticle Remover, brush, orange stick, cotton Tenclose 6c in stamps or coin. Please ee ee Z Cees Py How beautifully finished are the Parisienne’s hands, lily-white and smooth, capped with a rosy radiance polish. Then spreads a drop of the thin, rosy Cutex Liquid Polish over each nail. Instantly it dries to a tinted bril- liance that lasts as long as her mani- cure. Then a drop of fresh polish wiped off with a soft cloth will re- move every trace of it. How beautifully finished her hands look—their jewelled tips bringing out all the loveliness that only needed a bit of coaxing. You will adore this exquisite polish that makes your hands as lovely, as smart, as “finished looking” as those of the most fastidiously groomed Parisienne. There are five complete Cutex Manicure Sets from 35¢ to $5.00. Or each item is 35c. You will find them wherever toilet goods are sold. NortHaM Warren, New York — Paris— London. See offer below. We will send you for only 6c all the essentials for the quick manicure, in the attractive set—the lasting Cutex Liquid Polish and the wonderful Cutex Cuticle Remover. Address Northam Warren, 114 W. 17th Street, New York—or if you live in Canada, Dept. V-9, 200 Mountain Street, Montreal, Canada. eA drop of Cutex Liquid Polish spreads thin and smooth over the nail, giving it a rosy brilliance that lasts for days

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Things NIW LOVELY &b ] a with lovely, long, slender handles. Bowls in flow ing O shapes, with new decorations. Picture-frames with arched t ips. [J alway Perfume flask-ador. What an array of things new and interesting the International Silver. of sil into urseor pocket smiths have created for fall! -.--And how amazing their range! You I are th ; can pay as little as $4.50,—for that solid silver belt buckle, with the new IB trade- black enamel silhouette. You can pay as much as $681, for that chest of Yo | Belt buckle — new the Wedgwood Service. For almost every gift occasion, at almost every JB any d | andeffective.Decora- . . » ° ° 4 - tionin black enam- price, these pages contain a gift inspiration, el. No. 704, $4.50. Twinette, very slim and trim. Yet it holds (oose powder and mirror, rouge » compactand mirror. Vari. | ety of de orations. Ong with black enamel dancing nymphis$10.No.272/S]. ELBE SS URS i REI What lovely decorative pieces! And what little prices! No. N23 candle- sticks, 12”, $65 pair. No. T61 tail | compotier, 5%" high, $17.50. No. & T34 deep compotier, 10” diameter,. | $45.00. No. H23 A tray, diameter = 10" ,$38.00. No. F33 flower-holder, | 7 3-16” high, $14.50. Loose powder box. Wa- fer-thin, verysmart, with compact, puff, mirror. No. 276/717, $5. No. S: The loveliest cf pic- . wel | ture-frames. Note the briced arched top. Satin- $13.51 8 1-8", $31. Larger Srames, $39, $49. ess OR Se) — yecinaglon praia map ee Hee hs Same cbaten air 6 ee aaa raat Ck The now famous Wedgwood ed Beamon hogored Design has set a new style. . . Allits surfaces are patterned eemet tind — ane with intricate filigree decora- vices for twelve covers, in tion. Theeffectis lacy, lovely the Wedsweod Design and feminine beyond words. $681 aes . Dinner forks, $27.50 the (ey ha'f dozen. The cigarette case acquiresa | fine, masculine flavor with this motor-car decoration in black enamel. No. 80/S6, $13.50. i Ri eee Ct Ses, WROUGHT FRO! ce

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cpptember i5, 1 "OG flow ing ed tops. 1 Silver. e! You the new chest of st Every » slim and holds | OSE Ivror, rouge irror. Vari- tions. One nel dancing Vo.272/S1. ost of pic s. Note the p. Satin- 1 hand-en- 0. 66/643, ng 57-8'% 31. Larger 9, $49. cS ? Oy 0O* COURSE, the underlying beauty of giving International Sterling is this: whatever its price, whatever its form, it is always correct, always desirable. The International Silver Company is the largest guild of silversmiths in the world. Its standards of quality and craftsmanship are the highest. It will pay you to insist on the International Sterling trade-mark, which is stamped, plainly, on each piece. Your jeweler can quickly secure these creations for you. If you have any difficulty, please write us. International Silver Co., Meriden, Conn. Dresser service style is become entirely new. This design—the Theodora—illus- trates the new trend. Note its slender sil- houette, its tapering handle. A gorgeous, Something festive is dramatic creation, with hand-hammering there about a solid silver and hand-engraving. Set of mirror, comb pitcher and goblet. $75 and brush, $73.00. Sor the pitcher, No. E26, ; 5 pints. $12.50 each for thegoblets, No. P63. No. W7-1 Tray, length13%" , $47.00. No. V-44-1 Centerpiece, 8%" diam. $50.00. No. S36-1 Salt and pep per set in that stunning monumental size, ye priced most reasonably, $13.50. Height 6". How rarely deiightful, this Wedgwood teaservice. First, Flowers are most radi- the flowing contours. Then, ant inasolid silver vase. the fascinating bandings. This new shape has a Beauty both from near and fine substantiability. far with the personality of a } No. V51,$57.00. Height lovely woman. $350. With i. tray, $775. ee BaLitiD SiN ER 153 ePUTINGUUTIED in Jeli Silver ND BELO GSE Soe js EB 6 PG Scab: i BS Me, i pO Sink Meee The solid silver bowl is a favorite decorative key- 3 note. This one has fasci- nating filigree banding against its polished sur- face. No. D57, $65.00. | Diam. 8%". : peng aint SS oe RRR ETE re SRA

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Se] VOGU; SEEN ON THE STAGE (Continued from page 105) 154 experience and thus not prejudiced in number comes to a climax; at the Eq; favour of the old order which will have Carroll, it peters out. That is true of r passed, or they will be those of us who practically every number on the pr. are able to grow with the times—to gram. Mr. Carroll does not seem come fresh to our work each evening. know when a climax is reached apn) The new order of revue will not have when it has not yet arrived. Of th. smooth sailing, but what new order of _ performers, Ted Healy alone docs }jx anything ever has? job really well. In that rapidly approaching day that I am writing of, there will be much ‘*GEORGE WHITE’S SCANDALS" turmoil, even chaos. Experimentation discards as much as it uses. Perhaps, “George White’s Scandals” is a reyy Mr. Frank Munsey’s solution of the of different colours. From the momen; New York newspaper difficulty will when tiny Norman Phillips, junior indicate the way out of the critic diffi- | comes before the curtain and announrs culty: combine several, using the best the opening, the show is “made.” Ap features of each. But, as I have at- deservedly. For Mr. White selecis his | tempted to show above, Mr. Munsey’s’ material shrewdly, trains his choruses formula will not work with the revues — excellently, chooses his “leads” wit) themselves. Combine them all into one, discrimination and with an eye fo; / using the best features of each, and you diversity and contrast. He also ch vos«; will have spectacle heaped upon spec- his girls with an eye. His revue j tacle with now and then a lone comic chic, smart, fresh, from the shoe of th: or dancer lost in the bigness of all that last chorus girl to the head-dress «f thy surrounds him. Human eyes and ears _loftiest principal. In numbers like could not bear such splendour. Nor “Beware of the Girl with a Fan,” }y could the box office. achieves beauty and distinction withoy The summer revues of this season sacrificing simplicity. make the eyes bulge and smart some- Harry Fox is a good comedian why what and the ears hum and lay a heavy _—-wears clothes well and gets his stu burden on the box office. But not over. Gordon Dooley, Miller and Lyles perilously, for they have not yet reached and Tom Patricola—especially Ton the goal towards which they are rapidly Patricola—are excellent in their partic. pressing. Their very unevenness saves ular lines. The latter is as talented a them. For, when they succeed in their actor as our musical stage affords. | present aim, they will offer three hours _ in all, “Scandals” is, to me, the hes of unvarying magnificence. And that revue in town. would be too much. ciet Each of the four in the current crop THE “FOLLIES” nad is like a table prepared for a jumble : Helen Hayes in Leather Sport Jacket by Kenyon—featuired by Best & Co. sale. A heterogeneous assortment of pieces, each complete in itself, thrown helter-skelter on the counter. But revues do not strive for design; their object— as I hope I have shown—is to dazzle, sey Except, of course, the “Follies.” Bu . the “Follies” has ceased to be a revu sly, | a tk ° ‘ . lly, an as become an institution. Mr Ziegfeld in making it continuous js 7 doing more than establishing the only begir continuity in our theatre; he has from leav to amaze, to heap gorgeousness on m gorgeousness bewilderingly. Some of _ the first set a high standard for himseli HE beauty of any Leather Garment them strive also for other things. and his work, and around that standari . : a tradition is forming. The ‘Follies’ should be as enduring as the leather itself. “ARTISTS AND MODELS” has long been the aristocrat amon; In The | os a revues; to be permitted to appear on imp¢ e lovely softness of texture, color and The new “Artists and Models,” like the stage of the New Amsterdam is Crea : : its predecessors, strives also for other per se a mark of ability, a symbol of pattern of Witchcraft Leathers is unaffected things. It is labelled “Paris Edition.” excellence. The New Amsterdam stag grou b un. rain. ti . The stage of the Winter Garden this _ itself is to-day a symbol also. The cur- y Sun, , time or cleaning. summer bears a heavy burden of tain rises, and lithe, beautiful, glitter. Be Y b . : nudity. The revue itself adheres closely ing, radiant, resp'endent youth rushes creal ‘% Ou may de assured of this enduring beauty to the formula of all the others of its from the obscurity of the wings, stands +7 genre—it is lavish, crowded, rapid, in the centre of the stage, gleams in the = by the purchase of gorments cut from blatant. It makes a virtue of bigness. brightness of a thousand lights, be- i genuine Witchcraft Suede, identified by the It appeared to enchant an overflowing comes pardonably arrogant as the ap- mn Ks audience on the second night. I was _ plause fills the vast house, by the sense “Vy if WITCH upon the Care of Garment Tag. not one of the enchanted, not even in- Of having reached the top. Youth fore i terested for long stretches of the eve- triumphant. For a little while. Gradv- L i 3 ning. When Phil Baker is working ally, it moves towards the left, to the ettu Es HELBUR THOM with his piano accordion and with his _ side, out of the full glow, inte the shad- we N OMP SON COMPANY “plant,” Sid Silvers; when Teddy ows, and, finally, is lost in the black Ly OF SALEM, MASS. — is dancing; sometimes when seers of = wings. — - righ - | ogers, the female impersonator, is as come another crop of equally lithe, Just F 25 Spruce Street, New York, N. Y. performing with Brennan, his partner; _ beautiful, glittering, radiant, respler- “VY CHICAGO: 208 N. Wells St. GLOVERSVILLE. N. Y. when the Gertrude Hoffmann girls are dent youth prancing eagerly to the stagt iN 8 BOSTON: 69 South St. PARIS: 16 Avenue de L’Opera | @crobatic and, occasionally, in their centre, confident of triumph. The great lady other endeavours—when these things procession, like life, goes on and after are going on, “Artists and Models— without break—only the individuals shoul Paris Edition” is bri Ss. ition” is bright and gay. But pa your | there are gaps—long gaps—between. The “Follies” itself no longer breaks; For one “Pastels” or “Mothers of the it keeps its “stock” like soup and 3 “Al World” number, there are half a dozen _ gradually replenished. Some of the acts ‘ and some of the actors are new. The me if dull and conventional ones. The finale at ho A of the first act is a profuse, tawdry, best of these are Dare and Wall—%s unsuccessful attempt at splendour. clever and as adroit as acrobats comt. as co And Ethel Shutta—fresh, lovely, lively. “EARL CARROLL VANITIES” W. C. Fields and Ray Dooley remait over and, as always, are convulsing!) The sketches in “Artists and Mod- funny. And Will Rogers. His com els” are all sharply, even vociferously, ments on current events and personall- Thi pointed, but too many of them have the ties become more and more _incisiv¢. 1 same point. In “Earl Carroll's Vani- He is an anomaly in revues—quite 0! thousa ties,” the sketches are pointless. Both of place and yet singularly in place tuce ( these revues have a rotisserie number in — the “Follies.” In short, Florenz Zies- best s which girls, like plucked chickens— _ feld’s position as the revue-er par ¢* , ‘ aN stores, even the pin-feathers removed—are cellence is no more endangered this ye! thew ( roasted. At the Winter Garden, the _ than last, or ever.

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"OGUE 1 Gk at the Earl t is true of m the pro. ot seem ty eached an ed. Of th ne does his ANDALS" ” isa revue the moment Ps, ji nior | announces ade.”” And selecis his is choruses e2ads” with in ey. for so ch OSES is revue js shoe of the dress of the mbers | like a Fan,” he ion without iedian who s his stuff and Lyles ially Tom 1eir partic. talented an ffords. All e, the best > llies.”” But be a revui tion. Mr tinuous js g the only > has from for himself t standard . “Follies” ‘at among appear on terdam is symbol of dam stage The cur ul, glitter. ith rushes igs, stands ums in the ights, be- is the ap- ' the sense », Youth e. Gradu- ft, to the the shad- the black . the right ally lithe, , resplen- > the stage The great on and on adividuals »r breaks; ip and is f the acts 1ew. The Wall—as ats come. sly, lively. “y remain avulsing!y His com personall- - incisive. -quite out 1 pli ce in enz Zieg- r par ex | this yea! Ji September 15, 192 g a Ye Tale of omances of the equly Sentre” Fil [CAE the Sign of the Rose] Fs We =! — The GINGHAM GIRL of the El ght Sisters girls do?” It was a dialogue growing out of the fact that most of the so- ciety women visiting the Beauty Centre are making a pet of Lettuce Cream. “Yes, 1 am the Gingham Girl of the fam- ily, but until I finish my cleaning up and leave the face immaculate, you girls can’t begin!” s& In this respect, Lettuce Cream is the most important member of the eight Marinello Cream sisters, the admirably balanced group now causing a social stir everywhere. Beauty specialists call this remarkable cream Lettuce Cleansing Cream. ~1& “We girls did have a poky time of it be- fore you came into the family,” replied Lettuce’s sister, Tissue Cream. “But you would hardly call your work art,” joined in Combination Cream, “you just provide a thorough cleansing.” “Well,” said Miss Foundation Cream,“a lady came in to me yesterday for a facial, after she had a marcel, and | told her you should work on her first, to give her skin your sweet cleanliness, before | started. “After you worked on her, she asked me if she could get Lettuce Cream to use at home. She said it made her skin feel as cool and fresh as April lettuce.” & This is the discovery that hundreds of thousands of women have made about Let- tuce Cream and accounts for its being a best seller in department stores and drug stores, as well as beauty shops, all over the world. **7 KNOW I am the Cinderella of the family—the one who must do her work,” said Lettuce Cream, looking over the flower pots at the new Beauty Centre presided over by Emily Lloyd, “but without me, what would you other seven LETTUCE CLEANSING CREAM does nothing but cleanse—coming to you as the perfect cleansing cream—the result of eighteen years of intensive study and experiment by Emily Lloyd. It is used by 25,000 beauty shop owners and operators—is the standard skin clean- ser of all professional beauty culturists. Penetrating, gentle, its carefully selected vegetable oils are absorbed by your skin. When the cream is removed, every trace of dirt and impurity which causes a cloudy or stippled appearance comes with it. ~»& Use it at home. You will notice the wonderful effect after the first appli- cation. You will rejoice in a new, clean complexion—soft, supple, as enchanting to touch as a baby’s curls. Marinello Lettuce Cleansing Cream, like all the MarinelloCreamsand other preparations, exactly as they are used in the beauty shops, may be obtained in de luxe packages at drug and de- partment stores everywhere. _s& AT THE SIGN OF THE ROSE Fifth Avenue and 13th Street, New York Eight Hundred Tower Court, Chicago a ne. wee yELLO « . , a, sine i és, es mh ee ys é * Marinello Beauty Centres in every TREATMENTS city and progressive town—under PREPARATIONS “The Sign of the Rose.”’ Marinello INSTRUCTION Products at the best stores over the LABORATORIES pater

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oo tet PLE i ene Ph ad ee Kee nik GRIN Me Ss Re ahr be 5g tisk lh pei cv pean Bg on . : C ; Now you can try in your own home, at our expense, Cucum- ber Cream, the skin cleanser used as the basis of every facial treatment at Burnham’s — world’s largest beauty estab- ; lishment. This smooth, white liquid penetrates deeper than either cold cream or soap and water, yet isas mild and pureas sweet cream. It is easily and quickly ¢| applied and removed, requiring only a moment for thorough “| cleansing. And your pores, freed from all impurities, close naturally, leaving the skin smooth, clear and lovely. To make it easier for you to try this liquid skin cleanser, a Special Beginner's Size Bottle ( kin ‘leanser a = | E. BURNHAM, Inc., Memo Let Your Own Skin Decide See what this rare liquid skin cleanser will do—even after your favorite creams have done their utmost may now be had for 25 cents. Special Introductory Offer (1) Clip and mail the Memo below, together with 25c. (2) When you have used up the 114 oz. bottle, the guaran- tee coupon (enclosed in every package) will apply as 25c on the purchase price of a full- size $1.20 bottle. (3) Or, if for any reason you donot consider Cucumber Cream the most satisfying cleanser for your skin, your quarter will be refunded promptly. In this way your discovery will have cost you nothing. Clip the Memo below! EBumbhanr Professional Dept., 138 N. State Street, Chicago, IIl. A I enclose 25¢ for Special Peginner’s Size Bottle of E. Burnham Cucumber Cream. NS OS Re SEO CLEO ee FEE | Reta THE PING O CHINA, the oldest nation of [ the Far East, the mode owes, perhaps, a greater debt than it owes to any other single nation except France. For it was China which, very many centuries before the Christian era. gave to the mode the silks that have since, in all countries, been a dis- tinguishing mark of the attire of the woman of rank and fashion. So closely were the secrets of raising, spinning, and weaving silk guarded by those who discovered them, that it was not for some two thousand years that even the neighbouring country of Japan learned them, while, as may be re- membered, it was not until the time of the Emperor Justinian that pilgrim monks in the service of the Emperor brought them back to Byzantium, con- cealing the eggs of the silkworm and the shoots of the mulberry tree in the hollows of their pilgrim staffs of bam- boo. Civilization in China is of an antiq- uity surpassed only by that of Egypt and that of the Mesopotamian valley. Traditional history goes back for nearly three thousand years before the open- ing of the present era, and recorded history begins about 770 B. C. CENTURIES OF SILK WEAVING Long before the beginning of this recorded history, the weaving of silk had reached a high development in China, and it is to Chinese’ tradition that we owe the legend that the indus- try was founded by the Princess Si- ling-chi, wife of the great Prince Hoang-ti, in 2698 B. C. This Princess is still honoured in China as the God- dess of Silk. This great Prince, the tradition says, commanded his wife— for husbands are the lords of life in China—to devote her days to study- ing the problem of making use of the cocoons of the silkworm, native to the country. So great were her skill and application that, in a few years, she was able to spin the silk and weave it into beautiful fabrics which soon clothed all the court. About two thousand years later, probably in the seventh century B. C., four Chinese maidens went— whether by force or guile or friendli- ness we do not know—to Japan and taught the court the secrets of raising and spinning the silk and weaving both plain and patterned stuffs. In the same century, a Chinese princess—probably going as a bride to a foreign land and foreseeing the future needs of her ward- robe—hid the eggs of the silkworm, so it is said, and the seeds of the mul- berry tree in her head-dress and carried them to Khotan. There, she taught the secrets of silk to spinners and weavers, and, from there, the secrets travelled to India and later to Persia and the Near East, which supplied so many of the gorgeous silks of the mediaeval mode in Europe. Throughout the forty-five centuries that have elapsed since the days of the “Goddess of Silk,’ the fame of Chinese silks has been maintained, and, though a few other countries now sur- pass her in the quantities of woven silks that they manufacture, China re- mains even now the leader among the three largest silk-producing countries in the world, and many of the most beautiful silks of modern modes are both raised and woven in China and often embody Chinese designs of great antiquity, for the weaving is no excep- tion to the characteristic conservatism MODE VOGUE ANCESTOR-WORSHIP- OF CHINA of the land. One of the earliest his tories of Chinese arts, written early i) the seventeenth century, records tha many of the silk patterns of the Ha: dynasty, more than eighteen centurics before, were still in use at that tim The dragon was a _ characteristi motif even in these early silks, and, in the third century A. D., a Chinese Em peror sent to the Empress of Japan gift of many rolls of sumptuous bro- cade with dragons woven on a crimso); ground. Phoenixes also appear-in thes early patterns, and there are many bir: and flower motifs and some fruit d signs, among them grapes and peac stones. By the time of the Sung dynas- ty, more than fifty notable designs had been developed by the Chinese weavers, and so strong is tradition in China tha: many of these may still be found in the Chinese silks of the present day. These include the dragon patterns, many flower motifs, among which the chrys- anthemum, the lotus, and the peony are especially prominent, bird designs, especially peacocks—second only to the dragon as a mark of rank in China—, wild geese, various animal figures, and the palace and pavilion designs that have of late been adopted by many Western fabrics. Often, many flowers are combined in a single design, and the hundred-flower brocades of China are as famous as the millefleur tapes- tries of Flanders or the millefiore glass of Italy. Silk is not, however, the only fabric of the Chinese mode, though it is by far the most important one. For sum- mer wear, the aristocratic world makes use of a very fine linen known as kopou, which is very light and cool, and of many sheer gauze fabrics and the unstiffened grass-cloths, while cot- tons serve for those of lesser rank and means, though they are not used to the extent that they are in Japan. In the China of to-day, there is the same tendency to simplification of attire that is observable in most of the mod- ern world. Rich brocades and dam- asks are reserved for more formil wear, and there is a tendency to the use of plain silks and more sober colours. For spring and autumn, undyed silks on the order of shantung and tussur find much favour, and, for winter, there are satins very much heavier than those in use in the West and velvet also. Such furs as sable, ermine, and fox are extensively used for linings in the world of fashion, while lesser mortals find warmth in linings of sheepskin or waddings of cotton. Fur is seldom worn on the outside, except in the coats of a peculiar, very long-haired rat skin, which are worn only by certain digni- taries of very high rank. THE MODE AND CUSTOMS In the matter of conservatism in modes, China surpasses even Japan. The characteristic national costume was determined by its Mongol conqucr- ors—one of them, it will be remem- bered, was Kublai Khan, whose court at Pekin Marco Polo visited—in the thirteenth century, and, except in de- tails, it has not been changed since, though the influence of the present Chinese Republic is being exerted to bring about the introduction of Euro- pean costume for the men of China, and one of its earliest edicts made the state costume for ceremonial functions an adaptation of the to-hat and cut- away coat of the Occident. This edict (Continued on page 158) Septe : g j * ee Oe ee This our C oe

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iUE [P- N A st his arly iy Is that e Ha nturics t tim: teristi and, in se Em apan is bro- rimso)) n thes ary bird uit dé peac dynas- ns had eavers, na that | in the Thes > many chrys- ny are lesigns, to the hina—, es, and is that many flowers n, and China tapes- e glass fabric - is by r sum- makes wn as 1 cool, cs and le cot- ik and sed to an. In > same attire > mod- _ dam- formal he use olours. 1 silks tussur winter, r than >t also. Ox are in the nortals kin or n worn ts of a skin, digni- sm in Japan. ystuie nquer= emeni- » court in the in de- since, present ‘ted to Euro- China, de the ictions d cul- 3 edict 1 to our guaranteed lines IS september 15, 1925 guarantee applies ow you canget Satin Shoes with the Satin GUARANTEED O “ifs” and “ands” and “buts”—no arguments—no quibbling! Satin shoes made of Cedar Cliff Satins make good or we do. As the guarantee says: “If the satin in this shoe cracks, breaks or splits, your money will be refunded, or a new pair free.” And it means just that! It is the most amazing safeguard—the finest proof of real value—that you could possibly get. Cedar Cliff guarantees its satin because its quality is unsurpassed—has not only a superb lustrous appearance but “holds up” under the most exacting wear. At your retailer’s you will find shoes of Cedar Cliff Shoe Satin made in the very latest models —created by leading manufacturers. It will pay you to look for the Guarantee Label. THE CEDAR CLIFF SILK CO. 251 Fourth Avenue, New York Look for the _ GuaARANTEE GUARANTEED sn ~ HOE SATINS (Sedar (5 lif . ? S

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SJ HAIR « NEI ° Pe geimtan ON es At all good dealers—Prices Cap or Fringe: The strong Single Strand,10c; Double Strand, 2 for 25c; Gray or White, 20c. Canadian Prices Same as U.S. A, tome a! (amas | \ (i) A Mode Created for Hair of Any Length Coiffure by MADAME LOUISE O shape your coif- fure in charming accord with your in- dividuality. That calls for the urgent use of this personality Hair Net—in daytime to set the beauty line —in the evening with extra hair pieces. ainsborough Genuine HAIR NET The Net of the Life-Like Lustre © 1925 THE WESTERN CO., CHICAGO; NEW YORK~WECO PRODUCTS @O., LIMITED, TORONTO THE MODE VOGUE IN ORIN A (Continued from page 156) has met with much opposition from Chinese leaders, and with reason, for the Chinese costume is one of the sim- plest and most healthful in existence and far better adapted to the land and the people than any European mode can ever be. A part of this conservatism in the mode is due, of course, to the fact that in China, as in Japan, costume is de- termined by law and custom in accord with the rank of the wearer, but, to a far greater extent, it is due to the an- cestor-worshipping element in_ the Chinese character and to the secluded life which has been for centuries the destiny of the woman of rank in China. Only in recent years has this rigid se- clusion been relaxed, and, even now, it is only in the most advanced house- holds that a woman takes any active part in social life or is permitted to be present at social gatherings where there are men other than those of her own household or even to appear when her husband entertains his friends within his own home. WOMAN’S PLACE In the old days, and in the very con- servative families of to-day, woman was not, it is true, veiled or restricted entirely to a harem, but she went forth only in an entirely closed sedan-chair and only on visits to her family or her women friends and at the express per- mission of her husband. The greater part of her life was—and still is for the majority of Chinese women—spent in her private apartments and in the courtyard or garden of the house, and the higher her rank, the more com- pletely was she secluded. The Em- press, in older centuries, never appeared at state functions and was never seen by any one except the Emperor and her immediate attendants. In her palace in the Forbidden City, she dwelt sur- rounded by countless attendants and servants and eunuchs and completely detached from the outside world, which she could know only by report. Of education, the woman of the court had some measure—in the case of the late Dowager Empress, a very great measure—, but with women of lesser rank, the training was strictly limited to the practical affairs of life, and most of the Chinese world sub- scribed at least in theory to the dictum of Confucius, cherished since the sixth century B.C., that, “Women are, in- deed, human beings, but they are of a lower state than men, They never can attain full equality with men. The aim of female education, therefore, is perfect submission—not cultivation and the development of the mind... . It is a law of Nature that they should be kept under the control of men and not allowed to have any will of their own.” A CHINESE WOMAN SHOPS A familiar Chinese proverb says, “Three-tenths of good looks are due to Nature, seven-tenths to dress.” All this, of course, did not preclude an interest in attire. Naturally, however, such conditions tended to a general stability of costume, with minor changes in details, rather than revolu- tionary changes in line and cut. Doubt- less, those who wore the costumes were conscious of many differences between the costumes they wore and those of other times and districts, and these, of course, are growing more marked with the new increase in freedom of life. In- deed, one woman, the American wife of a Chinese official, has recently recorded her observations of years of life in China as follows: “Notwithstanding the popular West- ern fancy that fashions never chang in China, the Chinese woman is painis- takingly particular as to the exict length and fulness—or scantiness—of her coats, skirts, and trousers. She jx carefully precise about the width of bias bands or braid or lace that che uses for trimming, the number and arrangements of fastenings, the sh: pe and height of her collar. All of thise details vary as tyrannically from s:a- son to season—under Shanghai guid- ance—as certain style features do with us, under the leadership of New York or Paris. Moreover, as against our four seasons, the fashion devotee of China takes account of eight, each with its appropriate style and weight of cloih- MS dG. & “Madame Liang (her mother-in- law) had the Chinese woman’s love for shopping. Accompanied by her cousin and her servants, we went from silk merchant to porcelain dealer and from brass worker to rug weaver, gathering treasures. Though she carried on most of her negotiations through her cousin, she bargained with a firmness and a sense of values that I admired very much. In the silk shops, she bought marvellous brocaded satins and em- broidered silks, and she had me select the patterns I wanted for myself. Though she preserved most carefully the distinctive features of her own province, she was much interested in Shanghai styles and examined my wardrobe critically, noting the short sleeves with tight-fitting undersleeves and the skirts with seven pleats—not five, as in Canton, for example—at each side.” THE CHANGELESS SILHOUETTE So much for the minor elements of change in the Chinese mode; we may now turn to find the justification for calling it the most conservative mode in the world. The most fundamental difference between the modes of the East and those of the West lies, of course, in the fact that the East has never had the slightest use for the corset, and China is no exception to the rule. This immediately suggests that chang- es in the silhouette must be rare in the Chinese mode, for the countless changes of the silhouette in Western lands are due, almost without exception, to the changes in shape, the presence or ab: sence of the corset. As a matter of fact, we know that the feminine silhouette in China has not changed perceptibly in six centuries, and all that we know of the earlier history of China would lead us to believe that it has changed but little in forty or more. Characteristically, it is a straight- line silhouette, broken only by the end of a coat of varying length, which is worn over a longer and almost equally straight robe. There is no girdle, and the waist is not defined in any way, nor is any single line of the figure |ec- trayed by this completely obliterating. but in nowise muffling, garment. [n- deed, it is only in very recent ye:rs that it has been permissible for hands or feet—no matter how discreetly and daintily shod—to appear in pubiic. and the coat comes all the way to the throat and has a standing collar. The Chinese woman of fashion does not seek distinction in the multiplicity of garments as her Japanese neighbours do. For centuries, her costume has con- sisted of five garments at the most, (Continued on page 162)

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‘GUE NA f life in lar West- r change is painis- he exict iness—-of 3. She is width of that che ber and he sh:pe of these rom sa- lai guid. ; do with ew York our four of China with its of cloih- other-in- ; love for er Cousin rom silk and from zathering on most ‘r cousin, ss and a red very e bought and em- me select myself, carefully her own rested in ned my he short lersleeves -ats—not —at each STTE ments of we may ition for ve mode damental s of the lies, of Hast has he corset, the rule. t chang- re in the changes ands are , to the e or ab - of fact, yuette in stibly in know of uld lead ged but straight- the end vhich is equally dle, and ny way, zure |e- terating, nt, In- it yeurs r hands stly and public. y to the ion does tiplicity ghbours has con- e most, ) September 15, 192: A little neglect — and it comes creeping in! —a real threat to happiness ‘< ALL, the greatest dangers are not always big and overwhelming. Often they are really little things -~ that wedge their stealthy way between you and happiness. And sometimes the saddest thing about it is that just a little carelessness has brought it all about. Such a danger is one kind of personal neglect. It flashes no danger signal; but uncorrected, it is a real threat to happiness. It is that neglect of which the woman is guilty who abhors the unsightly rings of moisture and the repellent odor of underarm perspiration —yet will take the risk of ruining her frock or blouse; and worse, of offending others! Eternal vigilance is the price of personal cleanliness. You can hurry through your toilette, you can put off “till tomor- row’ careof the underarm, youcan take achance — but society does not quickly forgive one little lapse of daintiness. A bit of thoughtless neglect and the unlovely effects of underarm perspiration can have more deeply felt results than you perhaps dream of! The underarm must have REGULAR care You know, of course, that soap and water alone cannot pro- tect you; that regular, special care of the underarms is the only way to safeguard yourself. 3, million women have found their one sure dependence in the twice-a-week use of Odorono, the Underarm Toilette. A physician formulated Odorono as a scientific corrective of both perspiration moisture and odor. It is a clear, clean liquid, antiseptic in action. Doctors and nurses make con- stant use of it in hospitals. Here is what one well known medical authority says of it: Dr. Lewis B. Allyn, head of the famous Westfield Labora- tories, Westfield, Mass., says: “Experimental and practical tests show that Odorono is harmless, economical and effective when employed as directed and will injure neither the skin nor the health.” Twice a week is often enough to use Odorono. Each appli- cation assures 3, days’ freedom from unsightly, uncomfortable moisture and from that repellent odor which is so deadly to feminine daintiness.

And you do not need to bother with other precautions! Odorono keeps your lingerie and blouses dry, fresh and un- stained; free from those ugly, wet “half moons”’ under the arms. Are you taking a chance on this danger? Personal dainti- ness is too prized a quality to risk neglecting. Keep it safe with the twice-a-week Odorono habit. Know you are alto- gether above reproach. You can get Odorono at all toilet counters, 35c, 6oc and $1 or sent prepaid. Send for Sample Set of the complete Underarm Toilette I will send you three generous samples of the complete Under- arm Toilette—Odorono, Creme Odorono (for odor only) and Odorono Depilatory together with interesting booklet of information on perspiration conditions. Complete sample set, 10c; any one sample, 5c. Mail coupon today. RUTH MILLER The Odorono Company, 309 Blair Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio Canadian address: 107 Duke St., Toronto RUTH MILLER 309 Blair Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio Please send me sample set of Odorono, Creme Odorono (for odor only) and Odorono Depilatory with booklet for which I enclose toc.

EEE LS | EE

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=] Cfamily silver shows family consciousness N the “best families” of the South, inthe aristocratic circles of old New England, in fact, all over the country where people are proud of the good traditions of the past, there will be found true veneration for fine, old solid silver. And among the younger generation of such families, new patterns are desired, but real worth comes first. The Princess Mary design in Wallace Sterling Silver offers an exquisitely beautiful pattern. Its lines are those of regal simplicity, its grace, typical of the best silver artistry. Such a design lends dignity and beauty to every table service. ‘Beautiful Silver in beautiful places For a great many years, we have been making for the best American families, the silver they are proud to call their own. It is no wonder then, that the better jewelry shops sell Wallace Silver with equal pride. LAH OVS WWF ap) Baskin bed Zee ‘Princess Mary Articles shown on this page 145 Piece Chest $461.00 com, - Cold Meat Fork 5.00 each Teaspoon— heavy 25.00 doz. Gravy Boat and Tray 58.00 com. Tomato Server, large 8.00 each Pepper and Salt 25.00 patr i val J /(ALLACE STERLING SILVER

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September 15, 1925 SS) In the best shops you will find Wallace Silver O those who can appreciate the best colonial lines, the Wash- ington design willappealstrongly. The flat silver has a sturdiness and simple richness that is so desirable in solid silver. The hand- some, artistic tea service—some pieces of which are shown on this page—will add charm and correctness to the delightful tea hour. You may have a Social Secretary We are delighted to be able to offer you the exclusive services of Miss Diana Beningfield, who, for many years, has been with the Viscountess Astor, managing the great functions which she gave, Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt and other prominent women of the social world. Any questions that you are doubtful of, whether it be a matter of planning a simple luncheon, or arranging a formal wedding breakfast, you may write Miss Beningfield and she will be glad to advise you personally. Address her care The R. Wallaceand Sons Manufacturing Company, Wallingford,Conn. Sig qo" OLN Fe 74

<A Vs

MEFS

Washington Articles shown on this page Pie Knife $10.50 each Ice Cream Fork 25.00 doz. Sugar Bowl 53.00 each Cream Pitcher 44.00 each Coffee Pot 83.00 each Tomato Server 7.00 each Teaspoons (not shown) 25.00 doz

— / / /ALLACE STERLING OIL\ :

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162 A new luxury... anew refinement | in the art of living beautifully! By Letitia HADLey HE assurance of daintiness in étself. It was just such a quest which led the Mulford Laboratories to seek the confidence of a large number of representative women, to determine their needs, their preferences. Ten thou- sand were questioned. Their suggestions determined the form, the scent—all the essential characteristics of Deodo, the new, different deodorant in powder form. of immaculacy at all times—is a priceless treasure, is it not? I feel that every woman would e using a deodorant if she had found one which was delightful tnt MODE VOGUE iN: ¢HIWA (Continued from page 158) aside from outer wraps which may be added for warmth, and none of them are of excessive length, even those for ceremonial wear, though the gown may trail a little all around. The general lines of this costume are the same for women of all ranks, though colours and materials differ. Yellow, for example, is the prerogative of the imperial fam- ily and of such favoured courtiers as have received the imperial permission to wear it or of old men over eighty to whom it is permitted as a mark of honour to age; red is, in general, re- served for the mandarins, while black, blue, violet, and green may be worn by people of any and all ranks. The costume of the Chinese beauty begins with a shirt of silk filet, which does not show at the neck, as the Jap- anese shitage-no-kosode does, but re- mains in that obscurity usually ac- corded to lingerie. Over this shirt go very full trousers—every woman in the Orient seems to have a fancy for them —, trousers so full that they are expres- sively described as “au ocean of bouf- fant silk.” Though full, however, these trousers are of the softest sort of silk, so that they give no suggestion of a bouffant line to the straight silhouette. They are gathered in at the waist by a girdle of the silk and end about half- way between knee and ankle, where they are drawn in by ribbons, and the completed costume gives no hint of their presence beneath it. The next garment that the lady dons is the han-chaol, a sort of chemise or short tunic, which ends a little below the hips and opens down the front well to the right side, a characteristic line in Chinese garments. The han-chaol varies with the season and may be of thinnest gauze for summer or warmly wadded for winter. It does not show at any point, for, unlike the Japanese beauties, the woman of China feels no necessity for impressing on the public the number of her garments. THE MANDARIN COAT the haol when a skirt is worn instead. It may be edged with braid, and it closes at the right side, almost at the underarm, either inconspicuously or: with a line of embroidery or edging, or it may close down the middle of the front. In more formal costumes and i the costumes of older days when there was an imperial court in China, the ma-coual was the decorative garment of the mode. On it is lavished the marvellous embroidery in which Chines: fingers are so skilled, and one of its phases is the mandarin coat which has occasionally exercised so notable an in- fluence on the mode at the Paris houses This mandarin coat is the same in form whether it is worn by the man- darin or by the mandarin’s wife. The difference lies in the fact that, while th: mandarin’s wife concentrates the em- broidery of her costume on the coat and makes it a most elaborate garment putting much less embroidery, or non whatever, on the robe beneath it, the mandarin himself has the robe most elaborately embroidered and wears 2a coat of silk or satin in plain colour o1 of the imperial yellow brocade if he has been so fortunate as to receive the imperial sanction to wear it. Like most of the garments of the Chinese mode, the mandarin coat is distinguished by what the modern mode calls the kimono-cut shoulder, that is, a shoulder without a seam. The sleeve, however, though wide, is not like the kimono sleeve, but is shaped up under the arm and has rather the effect of a loose, straight, or bell sleeve, seamed all the way up on the under side of the arm and open only at the end. The coat itself is usually about three-quarters length, or slightly shorter, and is slashed up for a short distance from the lower edge at either side. As worn by the mandarin’s wife, this coat is embroidered all over with designs in which the dragon, three- toed or four-toed according to her hus- band’s rank, plays a prominent part, while on the front, sometimes divided Septe Imagine how pleasant it is to apply a fine white powder, and be assured of daintiness from that moment, throughout the whole day! No waiting, no repeated applications. This is due to Deodo’s almost unbelievable capacity for absorbing and neu- tralizing body odors. Deodo is definitely soothing and beneficial to the skin. And it does not stain or otherwise damage clothing... . Out- side of its important daily uses, you will find invaluable its immediate and continued effectiveness on sanitary napkins. . . Deodo is sold at most druggists’ and toilet goods counters—or I will send you a miniature container, holding a generous supply, free. Just give me your name and address. by the opening of the coat, is embroi- dered in reverse the motif of embroidery known as the pou-fou, which appears on the pectoral worn by her husband and is one of the marks of his rank. All the edges of the garment, including the edges of the slashes at the sides, are frequently outlined with narrow bands of embroidery, and, in very elaborate costumes, there may be a sort of straight and narrow apron of elaborate embroidery, which covers the front of the haol beneath the coat and comes all the way to the feet. The first of the visible garments of the feminine world of China is the haol, which is the principal garment of the costume. This is a long, straight robe, wide enough for comfortable walking, but not at all ample. It sometimes trails a little all around, especially in the cos- tumes of the older days when feet were considered immodest, but, as a rule, it just clears the floor. In modern Chi- nese costumes, the Haol is often replaced by a narrow skirt with side pleats, the number of which varies in different prevents and destroys body odors ?} H. K. Mutrorp Company Mulford Building VOGUE 9-25 Philadelphia, Pa. Please send me the free sample of Deodo. FREE—MAIL THIS COUPON NOW! places and with the formality of the costume. and these pleats may create a very slight flare at the hem-line. As worn by women of distinction, the haol is usually blue or of some dark coloured plain fabric or of a brocade of incon- spicuous pattern in a single colour.. At times, but not usually, it has a girdle of its own material. It closes almost in- visibly, far at the right side, and has, as a rule, a narrow round yoke, which may be of embroidery. Over the haol is worn the ma-coual, a sort of straight coat, which is of varying length, from just below the waist to well below the knee, but is al- ways shorter than the haol. Its wide straight sleeves may be pushed back to and having a slight flare at the bottom edge. Its sleeves are often long and close, filling the place of the sleeves of FASHIONS LONG AGO Whatever the rank of its wearer, the ma-coual comes all the way to the throat and has a standing collar, the height of which varies, in different parts of the country, from an inch and a half to all the way to the ears, in which case it is open in the front, In addition to the collar, there is, in all formal costumes, a long and narrow scarf of plain coloured silk that is tied about the throat and hangs in long ends down the front of the ma-coucl. This is often an interesting colour no‘e in the costume and is made of a very supple silk. In the privacy of her own apar'- However, as Chinese calling hours are from early in the morning until late xt (Continued on page 166) Name show the sleeves of the haol or drawn ments, the Chinese woman may wear a a down to serve as a muff and to conceal haol and ma-coual of plain, soft sil%, the hands. As worn by the women of _ slightly more ample than those of hir City State modern China, it is usually about hip- formal costume, and may tie the sca'f — ‘ length, slightly fitted above the waist en bandouliére across the left shoulder. Rubber

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nstead. and it at the isly o7 ring, or of the and i n there 1a, the arment ed_ the ~hines: of its ich has an in- houses ime ir » man- >, The rile th 1e em- vat and rment r non it, the > most ears 2 our o1 if he ive the of the oat is nodern oulder, 1. The is not ped up er the r_ bell on the n only isually lightly _ short either s wife, r with three- r hus- ; part, livided mbroi- -oidery ppears isband rank. luding es, are bands borate rt of borate ont of comes er, the o the ir; the ferent h and irs, in it. In in all arrow hat is n long coucl, r noie 1 very apar'- year a t silk, of her scarf ulder. rs are ate it September 15, 1925 One pait ot rubbers for all those shoes q HE year before last—when that $ daughter of yours packed for school, mother supervised. And she put in three pairs of rubbers to fit various shoes—and then they didn’t fit. Last year—she rebelled and didn’t take any. She had the cold, as proph- esied. . Mother tried to get the last word, as usual. But the cold still had it—six weeks later. She paid pretty high in pep for get- ting wet feet. This year— she’s found Las- tics. One pair of Lastics fits every shoe she wears Jat / a from brogues to dancing slippers. If the sole’s thick, the Lastic spreads; if it’s thin, the Lastic curls up. Always the Lastic fits as though it was born for that shoe—till it sees the next. Similarly about heels. Clever? Well, rather. Three kinds of Lastics—storm-cut pump-cut and Snug (a foot hold), satisfy varied prefer- ences as to pro- tection. One time when a man really in- vented something a woman wanted! Remember to ask for ‘Hood Lastics, not rubbers Rubber Footwear Rubber Footwear - Canvas Footwear - Rubber Heels and Soles - Pneumatic and Solid Tires - Rubber Specialties

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164 VOGUE A style for men dictated byt | sheer convenience HE RAPIDLY increasing use of the strap watch by men is no mere fad. It is dictated entirely by a growing recognition of the strap watch’s greater con- venience when no vest is worn. For, next to the vest pocket, the wrist is the most practical place for a watch. A watch in the trousers watch pocket is awkward to consult. In the breast pocket of the coat, it is in constant danger of serious injury by falling out. The strap watch, moreover, isa convenience which you can enjoy at small expense. For a good one costs no more than a suit of clothes. ~the strap watch for \ use without a vest “Wadsworth Gold Filled” case is made by — together Every two surfaces of solid gold with a layer of stronger metal between. The only other type of Wadsworth Case is one made entirely of gold or silver Every Wadsworth Case meets government standards But whether it is a pocket or a strap watch that you are now about to buy, it is important that you consider the quality of the case quite as much as that of the movement. Among watch cases not made en- tirely of precious metal, only those marked “Gold Filled” are approved by the Federal Trade Among the Wadsworth creations you will find a case exactly suited to your taste, and at a price within your means—a case of distinctive beauty and with that exactness of fit essential to the protection of the watch movement. Whatever the type of watch you select, you can depend upon the nameWadsworth as your assurance of a case not only of correct design but of the finest material and workmanship. Commission as capable of giving satisfactory service. Every Wadsworth Case con- forms strictly to government standards of quality, whether that case be gold filled, solid gold or sterling silver. When you buy a watch, there- fore, be sure that the name Wads- worth, together with one of these three government approved marks is stamped-in the case: Gold Filled Solid Gold Sterling WATCHES BEAUTIFUL Tue WapswortH Watcu CasECompaAny, DayTon, Ki. Suburb of Cincinnati, Ohio Case makers for the leading watch movements

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Je sen SRM of

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That it is something genuinely new, and better. . and smarter . . and sturdier . . will become more impres- sively obvious as the weeks go by. | — kh, WILLS SAINTE CLAIRE, INc. . . a Marysville, Michigan pp” ~\

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September 15, 1925 ———— * - Coe =e ©. 2 | . vu : aye > Ps ~ Stee When TuomAs A, Epison was known as “Little Al’”’ He accidentally splashed mud on a beautiful Paisley shawl pattempts to clean tt failed ~O years later Lux restored this treasured heirloom to loveliness . Y Mother often told this inci- dent of her early childhood. She was out walking one day with her Mother who wore a beautiful Paisley Shawl about her shoulders. “As they were passing, a little boy jumped from a wagon imme- diately in front of them. A big splash of stagnant muddy water literally covered the Paisley, espe- cially the white design in the cen- ter, which was its most beautiful feature. Grandmother attempted to clean it, but such ‘soaps’ as she had were ineffectual, and she put Now the ‘Big New “Package, too Lever Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass. it away, apparently permanently soiled. “When Paisley Shawls became the vogue a few years ago, my sister got the heirloom, discovered the fabric to be sound, fearlessly put it to soak in Lux, gave it a thorough Lux washing, and the Paisley was restored to its origina] beauty. The little boy who soiled the shawl was then known as little Al Edison, now known as Thomas A. Edison!” Mrs. JEAN PRATT 5825 Kenmore Avenue Chicago, Illinois Pe les = “ote ee i = a = 165 Piri S sports things of flower-hued qwoolens —keep their downy soft- ness, their pastel colors OOL, flannel, kasha—you are beginning to wonder how to renew the freshness of your sports clothes this season. Nothing is so dowdy as once-soft woolens that have assumed an uncompromising harsh- ness—nothing is so disheartening as that dull, much laundered look. Treat them to the same gentle, renewing cleansing that has for years restored the beauty of your silk sports frocks. For Lux can be trusted to cleanse the smart new flannels and woolens as graciously as it restored the cashmere Paisley stained so many years ago! At the first suggestion of soil toss into feathery Lux suds and wash as you would your favorite stockings. Lux leaves woolen > fabrics as downy soft as when you first a" bought them. No matting, no shrinking. With Lux you never have to rub sensitive fabrics. Just squeezing the rich cleansing lather through them is enough. Again and again your favorite “togs,” your most en- chanting sports clothes are restored to you! For Lux won’t injure anything that pure water alone does not harm. Complete directions on the package tell you just how to wash your sports flannels and fine woolens successfully.

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4 out of 5 Dental statistics show that four out of every five over 40—and thousands younger, too—are victims of dreaded Pyorrhea. Will you escape? Pyorrhea is a disease of the gums—not the teeth That’s one outstanding fact every- body should know. And if everybody did know it, the number of Pyorrhea’s victims would soon be greatly reduced. You may take splendid care of your teeth—brush them several times a day—and still get Pyorrhea. Once Pyorrhea secures a firm hold, pus pockets form, gums become weak and flabby, the teeth loosen and fall out no matter how white and sound they may be. Forhan’s means healthy gums It contains the right proportion of Forhan’s Astringent, as used by the dental profession in the treatment of Pyorrhea. Forhan’s protects and pre- ‘ serves the gums, keeping them in a firm, pink, healthy condition; cleans and whitens the teeth, and keeps the mouth sweet, fresh and wholesome. If you don’t care to discontinue the tooth paste you are now using, at least brush your teeth and gums once a day with Forhan’s. Forhan’s is more than a tooth paste; it checks Pyorrhea. Thousands have found it beneficial for years. For your own sake ask for Forhan’s For the Gums. All druggists, 34c and 60c in tubes. Formula of R. J. Forhan, D. D.S. Forhan Company, New York rhaty FOR THE GUMS More than a tooth paste— it checks Pyorrhea e knows She slorenalty the closest attention underthe water-line, so do your teeth un- Just as a ship needs | der the gum-line ._ TO ea i THE MODE VOGUE IN CHINA (Continued from page 162) night and as it is not etiquette to re- ceive even one’s women friends in any- thing but formal costume, her occa- sions for wearing it must be somewhat limited. Very much of the pomp and circum- stance of life vanishes from the earth with the passing of the court of any land. It was so with the passing of the French court in the eighteenth century, and it was no less so with the passing of the Chinese court in the twentieth century, and there is but little com- pensation for the loss in the fact that the embroideries of old China have, to some extent, found a new abiding- place on the garments of the woman of fashion in the West. The Chinese Empress of the old days was a superbly gorgeous being. One sees her seated on a high throne that is draped with the richest of embroi- dered silken stuffs and wearing a long ma-coual covered all over with em- broidery in which the five-clawed dragon, the symbol of imperial rank, is the principal motif. Under this is a long haol of satin lamé, and, in place of the silken scarf, she wears a “cravat” of heavy silk cord, which has the ad- vantage of not concealing her sou- chou, a very high collar of precious stones, for the Chinese woman has none of the aversion apparent in Japan to the wearing of precious stones. The head-dress of the Empress is of em- broidered satin, with the tin-tso—a crystal ornament that is a Chinese insignia of honour—in the middle of the top and the honourable peacock feather, the xwa-lin, standing out at one side, towards the back of the head- dress. Around the bottom of this head- dress is a diadem of enamel set with precious stones, and long earrings of precious stones hang from her ears. In her hand. she holds an_ intricately carved jade sceptre, a symbol of her rank. SUMPTUOUS JEWELS In the famous portrait of the late Empress Dowager of China, painted by Katharine A. Carl, the Empress wears a head-dress with a close band- eau studded with pearls of immense size and a flat, very wide crown of rich satin—suggesting the mediaeval two- horned hennin—which has an elaborate ornamentation of pearls and a pearl tassel of many strands and so long that it almost touches the right shoulder. Pearls stud her high collar, and about the base of it are three ropes of im- mense pearls, from which hangs a veritable shoulder cape of pearls, made of a network of ropes of very large pearls and reaching nearly to the waist and fully half-way to the elbows. A pearl of extraordinary size centres each of the round motifs of embroidery on her haol, and around the bottom of it is a border four or five inches wide made up of pearl emb-oideries edged with a pearl fringe. Even more gor- geous is the Chinese “cap of state,” now in the South Kensington Museum, which came to England at the time of the looting of the summer palace in Pekin in 1860. This cap, which begins as a crown of gold filigree-work set with precious stones, covers the entire top of the head with a mass of huge pearls and precious stones mingled with gold-work and with the ornaments of blue kingfisher feathers, which are so much used in Chinese jewellery, while, from either side, six ropes of pearls and precious stones of brilliant hue hang well below the shoulders of the wearer. Though she was unmistakably the most gorgeous figure at the court, how- ever, the Empress of the great days cf China was far from being the only one. The number of the lesser wives of the Emperor might be even as many as a hundred and thirty, and those of the first two orders were beings of a may- nificence second only to that of the En.- press. The three of the first order, who ranked as queens, wore most elaborate costumes with ornaments of feathers 'n ive colours. Even those of the second . rder, nine in number, enjoyed the rank of princesses and were permitted to wear the imperial yellow, though only the Empress might use the five-clawed dragon as a motif for the embroidery of her costume. As seen in a Chinese painting, one of these princesses of the imperial housc- hold wears a diadem of black velvet and artificial flowers, above which is a sort of crown of the blue kingfisher feathers, wide at the sides and dripping a fringe of pearl pendants around the sides and back, while long pearl pend- ants swing from her ears. Her haol is elaborately embroidered and slashed at the sides, and over it she wears a short, sleeveless coat of the imperial citron- yellow brocade, while an attendant at her side holds her magnificent ma- coual, a garment which often is not worn in the house. A long soft scarf with the ends falling in pleats is tied about her throat, and, in her hand, she holds the talapot, a fan in the shape of a hand-screen, made of flat feathers set in a richly lacquered mount on a slim lacquered stick, for China-is the land of the fan. The thirty-seven wives of the third order were condemned to uneventful white robes, while the eighty-one im- perial concubines, or wives of the fourth order, formed a sombre, but ef- fective background in robes of black silken stuffs. All of these fabrics which clothed the court were woven and em- broidered in ateliers within the palace walls, affording occupation to many otherwise idle feminine hands, and the marvellous workmanship and beautiful patterns of the old Chinese embroi- deries bear witness to a society in which the time of women is a thing of no value. Colours are combined with skill and great beauty in these old embroi- deries, and those that have the effect of being made of an infinite number of very fine French knots are especially highly prized. MASCULINE MODES Magnificence of costume is by no means a feminine prerogative in China. In fact, as is often the case in a country where woman occupies a subordinate position, the masculine costume offers no less possibilities to borrowing mod- ern modes than does the feminine. In general, this masculine costume has marked similarities with the feminine, as has been seen in the case of the mandarin coat. It begins with a shirt and trousers, as does the costume of the Chinese woman, but the trousers are longer and much less full and are drawn in at the ankles, instead of half- way to the knee, and are either tied about with strings or thrust into boots. Over these are worn one or two tunics or a tunic and coat. The under-tunic is often white or of lighter colour and may show at the neck only. In winter, one or two straight robes lined with fur may be worn under the tunic. In mod- ern China, the man often wears either a robe or a straight skirt that ends well above the ankles and a tunic, siort and on box lines, or a coat, which may (Continued on page 168) GEE RE Gilten.” At : © 1925, The Myrs, of Bt t

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GUE N A rt, how- days cf nly one. s of the ny as a 2 of the "a mag- the En.- der, who ‘laborate athers in > second the rank itted io igh only e-clawed yidery of py, one of 1 house - k velvet vhich is ingfisher dripping und the rl pend- - haol is ashed at a short, citron- idant at ont ma- 1 is not oft scarf 3 is tied and, she shape of feathers nt on a a-is the he third eventful one im- of the , but ef- of black *s which and em- e palace O many and the yeautiful embroi- in which g of no ith skill embroi- he effect imber of specially ; by no n China. country ordinate 1e offers ng mod- nine. In ime has eminine, > of the 1 a shirt ne of the isers are and are of half- her tied to boots. ‘o tunics ler-tunic our and ) winter, with fur In mod- rs either lat ends lic, snort ich may ) September 15, 1925 B \ Y Pronk Prices toc to 75¢ At the better stores © 1925, The Western Company , Chicago '@ g ance € ty Myrs, of Gainsborough Hair Nets and Dr. West's Tooth Brus _Tesult Gach soft CUTESS adds loveliness - The touch of a Gainsborough Powder Puff is a caress to your cheek. Softly it applies powder, and smoothly. Its fragrant dainti- ness delights the skin. Loveliness follows _ in its wake. That softer, finer texture—which invari- _ably distinguishes these lovely puffs is at- tained by special looming. And thus the tralian lamb’s wool or luxuriously sooth- ing velours. Attractively packed in dust- proof containers. New! In tune with the latest fashion note from Paris, Gainsborough now offers the new Peach Glow—a dainty Velour puff in a shade which harmonizes with lingerie and other typically feminine possessions. In attractive cellophane envelope, prices Loc to 75c. Ask your dealer for a copy of the attractive booklet —"Loveliness” into which twelve of the screen's love- liest women have transcribed their beauty secrets. zinsboro ugh — POWDER PUFF 167 — 7 Ne. on at i

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168 iL Costume Suit of velvet gray fur The Thrill of Enjoying Your (lothes There are costumes that you like from the start and admire more and more every time you put them on. You smile at your reflection in the mirror. You feel happy, contented and confident in them. Friends compliment your appearance and you realize what a big asset attractive attire is. That’s when you get the real “thrill” of enjoying your clothes. From all over the country come letters from young women which show that their writers have discovered in HOUSE OF YOUTH attire the secret of “enjoying their clothes.” HOUSE OF YOUTH Costume Suits, Coats and Tailored Frocks add beauty and art and charming femininity to fash- ion. Utilizing only the finest fabrics and the richest furs, their creators are not content merely to follow current style. ‘They endow these exquisite modes with a vivacity and person- ality. That is why a miss or a matron always “enjoys” HOUSE OF YOUTH attire. We will be giad to tell you the shop in your lo- cality which carriesHOUSE OF YOUTH«aittire. Write for a copy of “Success in Dress” our fail fashion magazine SCHULMAN & HAUPTMAN 224 West 35TH STREET, NEw YorkK ‘hoy blue” combined with match- ing satin and squirred ne ncn eteecsmocee nee RRR, ait NRE SE RIE IS CeO THE MODE VOGUE we €,- 3 E-N A (Continued from page 166) be sleeveless and which ends at about the hip-line and shows the loose straight sleeves of the tunic. The coat is usually fastened down the middle of the front with a row of frogs and is edged with a plain braid and made of plain coloured silk, satin, or velvet, or of blue cotton in the case of the poorer classes. Not infrequently, it follows the more characteristic Chinese line, clos- ing far at the right side. This coat is obviously the prototype of the house coat and the pyjama coat of modern masculine costume and has at various times exercised considerable influence on certain rather short box-coats of the modern feminine mode. No such simplicity, however, was known to the men of rank of earlier days. The Emperor was no less splen- did a figure than his imperial consort. A hand-screen shielded his celestial face from the gaze of the multitude, but above it might be seen his bonnet with the crystal tin-tso and the distinctive peacock feather ornament. His robe was nearly as long as that of the Em- press’s and was embroidered all over with five-clawed dragons aiid ser- pents, and over it a long necklace, often of coral, fell far below the waist. Over his shoulders was a square pelerine. also embroidered, and in his hand was the jade sceptre of his imperial rank. A MANDARIN’S COSTUME Among the most distinctive costumes of the men of China are those of the mandarins, Chinese officials who are known in China as kwans, possibly a derivative of the Mongolian khans. The rank includes both military and civil officials—the civil, as might be ex- pected in China, outranking the mili- tary—, and there are nine different degrees, each of two classes. These different degrees and classes are dis- tinguished principally by the button worn on the top of the hat, and this varies in substance, in thickness, and in colour—red, blue, white, or gold, ac- cording to the rank. To certain of the high mandarins is accorded, also, the use of the four- or the three-clawed dragon in embroideries and the per- mission to wear the imperial yellow, and most of the mandarins wear, as well, the embroidered pectoral, a panel of silk nearly as wide as the shoulder, which hangs from the neck of the gown. It is painted or embroidered with an insignia of honour, some bird form for the civil mandarins and some beast for the military—a bit of Chinese psy- chology, one might suggest, for the his- tcries of the old wers of China are singularly like certain tales of events of the late War and may well account for the aversion of the present generation to military training or any warlike activities, even in defence of their richts. The official costume of the mandarin of high rank consists of a long robe embroidered with the four- or the three- clawed dragon and serpents and held in by a belt that serves as a pocket. Over this robe is worn the mandarin coat described above, with embroi- dery and made of plain silk or of dam- ask. A pelerine similar to that of the I-mperor and often of the imperial yel- jow damask is thrown over the shoul- ders toward the back, while a long neck- lace cf jewels hangs in the front over the pou-fou. The sleeves of the gown are very long and flare. in horseshoe shape over the hands. Etiquette de- mands that they shall hide the hands cempletely on all formal occasions, which is probably a reminiscence cf Mongolian days, since one finds {! same custom prevailing in Russia vp t, the time of Peter the Great with }j scissors and his French fashions. Silk or satin is the usual materi] of the costume of the mandarin, and wit) it is worn a close hat or bonnet with , turned-up brim, which must be i with satin, velvet, or fur and on y appears the mandarin button and th peacock feather (xwa-lin) or the p'um (lan-lin), according to the civil rai k of the mandarin, or a fox-tail, if he is , military official. These are worn ack of the buttons, which are ova! for ceremonial wear and round for in- formal occasions. In summer, this on- net is replaced by a conical hai of straw—the origin, perhaps, of the mushroom shapes of modern modes— with the button at the tip. Mandiurins af higher rank also carry a red pai iso] the size of which varies with the rank of its possessor, while those with grate. ful “constituencies’ may carry the coveted wan-min-san, the parasol of , thousand names, which is given to mandarin in token of the appreciation of his people and has the names of th donors embroidered in a border about the edge of its cover, for all the world to see. The boots of the mandarin are of , type common to many ranks in China, soft and high, rather like a moccasin with exceptionally high tops, excep: that they ‘have soles, usually rather heavy soles of felt, slightly upturned at the toes. They are made of. satin— usually black—, of silk, or of cotton and are fastened across the ankle only, with the tops left loose somewhat after the manner of the famous overshoes of the flappers of recent days. In sum- mer, these are replaced by low shoes with openwork straw tops, while the heavy embroidered garments give wa to a plain slip-on robe of light silk— ’ possibly another invention of the Chi- nese mode—, for the Chinese both be- lieve in and practise the wisdom of dressing in accord with the weathei With this costume, the mandarin car- ries in one hand a fan and in the other a large decorative handkerchief such as the sports costumes of the Western feminine mode have displayed recently. OTHER FOOTWEAR 30th the boots and the fan were es- sential to formal masculine costume in old China, and sometimes the _ boots were of kid, though leather has com into general use in China only with the recent adoption of Western shocs by the younger world. For less formal oc- casions, there are slippers with thin. narrow soles and shoes of felt or velvet with very high,soles. All of these shoes are made in the characteristic Oriental fashion, without distinction of left and right, as are the shoes of the women. which are usually of silk or satin. richly embroidered, and are made by the women themselves or by the waiting women in the case of a beauty o: high rank. The footwear of feminine China is unquestionably the most familiar fea- ture of the Chinese mode, and the West ern world looks with consternation 0 this deliberate crippling of womai, though Mr. Wu Ting Fang, in his book on America, questions, and not without reason, whether the binding of tie feet can be more injurious to the physiqu in general than the cramping of th’ waist to which thé women of m2 generations in the West have bee sv) jected, or, rather, have subjected them- (Continued on page 186) Septe CX A sTRUC cated by ogists. tel examine see how 1 less wast clasticity And tl the bed o; Healthy scalp. 7] should, it serms as licles mu oils, nor At las: made for hair. It that will Yet dirt, ished by : and antis Glo-C ferent pr

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IGUE N A finds t! ssia Up ty with }j ions. lateri:l of and wit let With a be 1 iced on Which 1 and th the p'um il rark of if he is 4 vorn ack ova! for | for in- this 0n- ul hai of of th moces— Tandirins d parasol the rank ‘ith grate. ‘arry the rasol of a iven to 4 preciation nes of the der about the \ orld are of a in China, moccasin S, except ly rather turned at f satin— of cotton ikle only, that after overshoes In sun- ow shoes vhile the give wa) ht silk— the Chi- both be- isdom of weather arin car- the other f such as Westem recently were es- stume in the boots has come with the shoes by yrmal oc- ‘ith thin. or velvet ese shoes Oriental ‘left and » women, in. richly b the waiting- y of high China is liar fea- the West lation on woman, his book t without f thie feet physique g of the of many yeer1 sub- September 15, 1925 ‘The delicat

® . *. ul Pi Ri < = » 65.4 Neo 169

e structure of the hair explains the need for special cleansing ...a new and different shampoo A STRUCTURE far more delicate than is indi- cated by its strength! That is what physiol- ogists tell you about the hair. If you could examine it under the microscope, you would see how it is affected by strong soaps and care- less washing. How it is robbed of life and clasticity, becomes harsh, brittle and breaks off. And the scalp. Have you thought of it as the bed of the hair, and given it the proper care? Healthy hair cannot grow in an unhealthy scalp. To keep the scalp functioning as it should, it must be kept free from dandruff and germs as well as dust and dirt. The hair fol- licles must not be deprived of their precious oils, nor irritated into creating them in excess. At last an ideal shampoo is available—one made for the special needs of both scalp and hair. It is Glo-Co Shampoo—a preparation that will not injure the texture of a rose-leaf. Yet dirt, dust, dandruff and bacteria are ban- ished by the lightest touch of its thick, creamy and antiseptic lather. _ Glo-Co Shampoo is an entirely new and dif- iereit preparation, It is a liquid, of course, because a liquid is the only logical form for a shampoo. Doesn’t stick to the hair in tiny particles like bar soap and soap jellies. In Glo-Co Shampoo a way has been found, GLO-CO SHAMPOO for the first time in history, to use olive oil in sufficient quantity (in combination with other vegetable and medicinal oils) to have a pro- nounced effect on the scalp and hair. There- fore, Glo-Co Shampoo is bland, mild and soothingly cleansing beyond anything you’ve ever used before. Try it and see. If your hair is dry and life- less—if the ends are harsh and broken, watch Glo-Co Shampoo restore its lustre and beauty. If you are troubled with dandruff or seborrhea — if your hair is excessively oily, watch Glo-Co Shampoo restore your scalp and hair to health. Glo-Co Shampoo is 50 cents a bottle, a gen- erous size. Use Glo-Co Hair Dressing too. It is far better than brilliantine to keep your hair in place. Glo-Co preparations are sold at drug and department stores everywhere, and in barber shops. Send 10 cents for samples of both. Fill out and maii the coupon below.

NorMANY Propucts Co., Dept. J 6511 McKinley Ave., Los Angeles, California Enclosed find 10 cents for trial bottles of Glo-Co Shampoo and Glo-Co Liquid Hair Dressing.

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170)! Haviland China ex ‘¢ a ae ms — ~~ = “Fantaisie One-of the newest and most attractive of Haviland Open Stock patterns. -~TJeep border of Formal Cashmere design in -vivid.colorings of pink, blué;tedand green on a creamy, ivory-tinted background. \ ee a + : an) . Vv \ ‘Since 1837 P our china has enjoyed an enviable r geputation. In purchasing be sure to .. .#&putation. , “ notice carefully the Trade Marks. we | ome, ges, se y tw Sw Limoges" _’ Unless these Trade Marks appear on each piegé, you will notbegettingthe Genuine. .+,- ‘Havileid:Ching, _* Manufactured at Limoges, France ‘ sida - *, 5 wey’ reeves b DECORATED BY 4 ~er ete ; ‘If you have any difficulty in obtaining the genuine Haviland China *'{which is on’ sale’in-a wide range of beautiful designs at the best Chinaand Department Stores], write for the name of nearest dealer. 11 East 36th Street, New York * O., Ine. A § Ss EEN VOGUE B Y H I M (Continued from page 99) Newport, for the list would read like the catalogue of an art sale, but the subject can not be dismissed with- out a mention of some of the beauti- ful women at the greatest ball of the season, which the Széchényis gave after the Vanderbilt wedding. Young Mrs. Herbert Pell might have won a prize in a beauty contest on that occasion, in her white dress embroi- dered in crystals and pearls, several strings of pearls, and a diamond ban- deau worn very far back over her dark hair in a manner that set off her beauty to perfection. Mrs. Vincent Astor wore a white dress with a border at the bot- tom composed of only three huge flow- ers like those embroidered on a Chinese shawl, and it was very unusual and effective. Mrs. Cosden wore a lovely peach-pink dress—a colour which must be her favourite, for she also wore a peach-pink dress and hat in the morn- ing at the beach. THE SZECHENYI DANCE The Széchényi dance was what used to be called a “ball” and the only dance this season that could compare with the very brilliant dances of last sea- son given by the Duncans and the young Willie Vanderbilts. The ball- room of the house, which belongs to Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, is one of the biggest and finest ballrooms in America and is very amusingly decor- ated in the Empire period with a touch of the Egyptian influence, in a colour scheme of yellow and royal-blue. But the most decorative feature was the garden, which had been turned over to electricians, who had laid out the symmetrical flower-beds with rows of coloured lights, so that it gave the effect of a garden blooming with moonflowers of a variety never seen before. The trees were hung with lanterns, like huge melons falling from the underside of the foliage, and the lawn was strewn with umbrellas and little tables. The umbrellas were so cleverly decorated with coloured lights that they looked like night-blooming flowers themselves and radiated a soft light on the people at the tables below them. The foliage against the house was entwined with blue and green lights, and the light fell on the dahlias growing at the back of the flower-beds so that the flowers themselves were not lost in the dark- ness. As the motors arrived, the doors were opened by footmen in the Szé- chényi livery, a last touch to the dec- orative side of the scene with the pomp that attends an Ambassador’s ball. None of the dignity of the occasion was lacking, for it was one of those parties at which all of the older women at Newport, looking very magnificent and bejewelled, turn out. Mrs. Henry A. C. Taylor, suggesting the Empress Eugénie, with her long black dress, her pearls, and a beautiful tiara, made a decorative picture. Mrs. James B. Haggin, whose ball followed the next week, and Mrs. Preston Pope Satter- white, in a very beautiful dress of cerise and crystal embroidery, were among the distinguished women who sat in the ballroom and watched the younger people dance. A SUCCESSFUL SEASON The Vanderbilt wedding made the Newport season the greatest success it has been for years, for everybody came from far and wide to be present, and, by the middle of July, there were no houses left for the late comers. Even the harbour was full of yachts, for those who could not be put up in town, and a great deal of excitement \vas caused by Harold Vanderbilt’s flying boat, moored off the end of his yacht and covered with a great search-lizht at night, making it look like scme strange captive bird that had b:en towed in from the unknown. Mrs. V in- derbilt, very cleverly, turned the Thay house, which she had taken for the wedding, into a gala spectacle for the occasion. It is just opposite the en- trance to Bailey's Beach and sur. rounded by enormous bright blue tubs filled with blue hydrangeas. The ye. randas were curtained with draperies made of canvas in two shades of biue. broken by one or two enormous orange awnings on the facade of the house where the columns run to the roof. ‘The lawn was covered with blue and orange awnings and tables for the reception, and the note of blue was introduced into the big room where bright blue poles held the ribbons that railed off the end of the room where the ceremony took place. These poles, instead of being capped with bunches of flowers, were finished in a charming and novel manner by old-fashioned bouquets of flowers fitted into a holder of white lace and paper frills. There was a very gay dinner for the bridal party the night before the wedding, after which all the ushers paraded about the new Embassy Club, bearing the most amusing collection of paper parasols and favours that New- port has ever seen. The ushers, being strangers to most of feminine Nevw- port, were, to put it mildly, the topic of flattering conversation at luncheon and dinner-parties for many, many days after. ; CONCERNING MASCULINE ATTIRE For the first time in the history of a wedding, what the men wore must be reported, for the burning question up to the day of the wedding was, “What were the men guests to wear?” Every one was in doubt, but the problem solved itself, and the standard for country weddings in summer, whether at Newport or elsewhere, has been set once and for all through the attitude taken by the male guests at the Van- derbilt wedding. The groom and the ushers wore the conventional tail coats, striped trousers, white waistcoats, and white spats, but the other men came in very light summer attire. Mr. Harry Payne Whitney wore a light grey suit with a soft grey shirt and collar. Young William H. Vanderbilt wore white flannel trousers, a dark coat, and a white soft shirt. Mr. Whitney Warren senior, in his usual picturesque way of dressing, wore a double-breasted blue suit with a blue shirt, a blue collar, and a white tie. The Prince Rospigliosi wore café-au-lait flannel trousers and a blue coat, and all of the other men were similarly attired. NEWPORT HOUSES Newport is a veritable museum of the taste of generations, for there is everything from the old Revolutionary houses of the prosperous traders, the Victorian atrocities, which are rented as the Newport “cottage” so often men- tioned in the society columns of the daily papers, the marble palaces of the great social leaders of the last twenty years, to the modern picturesque houses, such as those that Mr. F. Frazier Jelke and Mrs. Huntington Wilson have built out upon the rocks beyond Baileys But now comes another great house a day when one had supposed that no more great houses would ever be built (Continued on page 188) Sep

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OGUE IM ment \vas ilt’s flying his yacht earch-livht like scme had been Mrs. Vin. the T] aw n for the tle for the te the ‘n- and Sur- blue tubs The ve- draperies es of biue. US Orange the house roof. ‘The ind orange reception, introduced right blue railed off » ceremony nstead of f flowers, and novel uquets of of white inner for efore the 1e ushers issy Club, lection of hat New- ers, being ne New. the topic luncheon 1y, many .TTIRE story of a must be estion up s, “What ” Every problem Jard for whether been set attitude the Van- and the ail coats, vats, and came in r. Harry grey sult r, Young e white , and a Warren > way of ted blue e collar, spigliosi ers and ler men eum of there is itionary ers, the - rented *n men- of the ; of the twenty houses, or Jelke ve built 3ailey’s. ouse in that no ye built September 15, 1925 four palern yh, elect if now/ LiL HEPPELWHITE SOLID SILVER A pattern that gives full expres- sion to the beauty of line that made famous the work of the celebrated English designer whose name it bears. All dinner, dessert and break- fast knives have the new Mir- rorstele blades (registered trade mark applied for). They are stainless steel with all the bril- liance and lustre of silver. Fur- nished exclusively in Reed & : In its pleasingly ornate design itis truly representative FRENCH ANTIQUE of the era of that TRADE MARK 2B 2s STERLING FRANCIS FIRST SOLID SILVER French king who SOLID SILVER was the great patron Characteristic of the best early of the art of the sil- French silversmithing when versmith — Francis craftsmen forged the precious First. metal into appealing shapes without ornamentation. ¥ IS easy to imagine such pieces as_ days of thar greatest of all workers in these coming from the hands of those precious metals — Benvenuto Cellini. famous old New England craftsmen, YOUR pattern is in this famous whose entire lives have been devoted group. Look for it. Ask your jeweler to the production of Reed & Barton to show it to you. Ask him also to ware. Such patterns represent some- show thing more than mere spoons, knives ples of Reed & Barton tea sets, dinner or forks. They represent definite stand- services, candlesticks, vases and many JACOBEAN Regency. fb SOLID SILVER A stately pattern with a sug- gestion, in its marked strength of line, of the culture and te- nement of the English period from which it takes its name. a FE vexrace SOLID SILVER A pattern that fol- lows the pleasing deco- rative trend of the period of the French you his equally beautiful exam- ] ~ SS SS SS SS h | NN fa} STE S SSS OO h DSS SS SS SS SS SS SS Mia ie N —_ Barton Solid Silver Flatware. | atds of silversmithing that recall the other useful and ornamental pieces. REED & BARTON, Taunton, Mass. | Kw PU TT a) | LOTTO VAS SISSON SSS ty TAM TO N ESTABLISHED OVER 100 YEARS SOLID SILVERWARE ~ PLATED SILVERWARE SEE Ss 5 \F 4

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sin £A National Institution (ins From Coast to Coast’ Established 103 Years The PHILADELPHIA Sizes, 7 to 20 yrs. Introduced by Browning King, this three button model is the leading feature in our stores in the larger Cities which cater to the most fashionable clientele. Only the finest woolens and the best tailoring are to be found in the Philadelphia. Includes waist- coat and extra knickers. BOSTON 407 Washington St. BROOKLYN, N. Y. Fulton St. at DeKalb Ave. BUFFALO Liberty Bank Bldg., Lafayette Sq. CHICAGO 12-14 W. Washington St. CINCINNATI 4th & Race Sts. CLEVELAND 419 Euclid Ave. Euclid Ave. at 107th St. DENVER ~ 1624-30 Stout St. DETROIT Washington Blvd. at Grand River EVANSTON, ILL. 524-26 Davis St. KANSAS CITY, MO. Grand Ave. & 11th St. The YORK Sizes, 14 to 20 yrs. The wardrobe of a well dressed youth is hardly complete today without a double breasted suit. The York Model of Browning King’s has the fine tailoring and smart lines especially essential to clothing of this type. Includes waistcoat and extra knickers. KANSAS CITY, KAN. 650 Minnesota Ave. MILWAUKEE 2-12 Grand Ave. MINNEAPOLIS Nicollet at Eighth St. NEW YORK CITY 1265 Broadway at 32nd St. OMAHA Cor. 15th & Douglas Sts. PHILADELPHIA 1524-6 Chestnut St. PITTSBURGH 439-441 Wood St. PROVIDENCE Westminster & Eddy Sts. ST. LOUIS 7th & St. Charles Sts. ST. PAUL Robert at Sixth St. SEATTLE 2nd Ave. & University St. T By BERENICE - HE GEORGE AND THE CROWN,” by Sheila Kaye- Smith (Dutton), is one of those novels distressingly difficult to estimate, in that appreciation of their unques- tionable intrinsic excellence is miti- gated by the fact that the world of literature is full of so many others that in style, in setting, in theme, in general treatment are so very like. This divides readers into two groups: those who lave read widely, and who catch rever- berations, therefore, of other kindred work; and those, more fortunate, at least for the specific case, who can enjoy Sheila Kaye-Smith’s latest book to the full, unhampered by disturbing recollections. And, indeed, the intrinsic excellence is such that, in all fairness to the book, it ought to be judged in the light of the WHAT second group of readers, who, after all, - are in a decided majority. The main characters in the story are three: Dan Shearer, son of the keeper of the “George,” in Bullockdean, England; Ernley Munk, son of the keeper of the far more prosperous “‘Crown,” across the street; and Belle Shackford, daugh- ter of a neighbouring farmer, a girl with not too savory a reputation in the town. Dan, who is gentle, kind, steady, and de- pendable, had struck up a friendship with the more cultured, but moody and uncertain Ernley during the War. Dan humbly adores Belle, but believing her to be plighted to Ernley, it is a distant and silent worship. But she and Ernley, mutually attracted and antag- onistic at the same time, are at constant loggerheads; and, in the interval of one of their breaks, Belle becomes engaged to Dan. Ultimately, Belle and Ernley find that they can not do without each other, and Dan seeks solace by return- ing to his French mother’s home on the Island of Sark. Here, he encounters a girl just about to take the plunge into a life of vice and marries her. A year of happiness terminates in her death, in childbirth. The rest of the story has to do with Dan’s return to England, with the marital unhappiness of Belle and Ernley, with Belle’s appeal to Dan for rescue, with Dan’s narrow escape from muddling his life by acquiescence, and sundry minor events related to these chief ones. Half a dozen sentences are hardly potent to summarize almost four hun- dred pages replete with much detail, phil- osophy, and the wisdom of a ripened outlook upon life. The characters are drawn by a hand that feels them in their relation to the great inexorable order of things, with the result that there is no’ “villain in the piece,” but just many real human beings, each working out his inevitable destiny in ac- _ cordance with the forces that Nature has put within him and around him. Thus Belle, ruled by her passions, and glowing and colourful in personality because of them, wonders about women who go through life cold—can no more understand them than they can under- stand her. And Ernley, married a few years, restless and wretched, craves a rekindling of old fires, dreads and hates the accustomedness into which life has settled. Both win the reader’s sympathy. A book of which it may be said that one comes to scoff and stays to praise, Is “MRS. DALLOWAY,” by Virginia Woolf (Harcourt, Brace). Perhaps scoff is not quite the word; but, at any rate, there is an initial guardedness engendered in the reader by virtue of the extreme modernity of Mrs. ‘Woolf’s fiction method—a weariness at what seems an artificiality and, therefore, an insincerity of style; so that when the reader is won over, as he is pretty sure to be, it is H EF Y C. SKIDELSKY VOGUE ms 2B A almost in spite of himse!f, and, in con sequence, an added testimony to th: power of the work. Whether Mrs. Woolf was influenced by James Joyce, or Joyce by Mrs. Wool}, or whether both happened to evolve spon- taneously and coincidentally their par- ticular methods, it is, of course, not pos sible to say; but, certainly, any one whv has read the much discussed and indig nantly suppressed famous Irish novelist will find hi thoughts constantly turning to it as h pursues “MRS, DALLOWAY.” Not tha Mrs. Woolf ever affronts delicate sen sibilities, as does Joyce at every turn by the use of language obscene beyon belief and minute descriptions of all sorts of bodily functions. But bot) books have as their substance the odys- sey of a group of persons through .; day—not only their outward circum stances, but the intricate twistings and windings of their thoughts and the in- terplay of their lives, one with another. Both recognize the importance of the nuance in human significances; and both get arresting effects in an ex- tremely novel manner. The book consists of one long chapter running its entire three hundred pages. It opens with the morning preparations of Mrs. Dalloway for the big party which she will be giving that night, and closes with the party itself. No sum- mary of the story can be given, for the simple reason that there isn’t any story. A series of incidents move with sequence and with charm into the formation of a unity that has novelty and strength to recommend it. There is the sudden ap- pearance of Peter Walsh, one-time lover of Mrs. Dalloway, after an absence of a generation in India; a reunion with their old friend, Sally Seton; events showing the place in Mrs. Dalloway’s life of her daughter, Elizabeth, of her husband, of a handful of casual personages; the sui- cide of young Septimus Smith, shell- shock victim of the War, all ingeniously woven into a single pattern. A faintly melancholy consciousness of the evanescence of youth, and, indeed, of life itself, that rings like an echo ever and again throughout the book, not in maudlin sentimentality, but in subtle art, adds poignancy of appeal for readers to whom the essence of life re- flected in literature is of more moment than a story. A most amazing book, almost incredi- bly compounded of naiveté and sophis- tication, is “MADONNA AND THE STU- DENT,” by Isabel Neilson (Huebsch). The story, written in the first person by the girl, Rolande, deals with her years of literary study in Munich. spent wit) her friend, Phillipa, student of music. Rolandedescribes herself and her friend, throwing the balance of favour in mat- ters of charm and beauty to the latter; but one suspects that “the lady dot) protest too much,” and, sure enough, as the tale unfolds, with many subtle touches of what is known as feminine felinity, she adroitly readjusts the scales so that she herself becomes the shining star and universal charmer, and Phil- lipa becomes just a wee shade cor- temptible. Rolande, at twenty-eight, declares he’- self capable of either love or hate for all things, but not of indifference except to- ward men. She repeatedly declares tlc lack of significance of “romance” in her life; but there is a coyness in her meii- tal grimaces at the thought of it th even a superficial student of Freudic«! theory can readily interpret as obsess- ing desire for it. A young student, a frank sensualist, living in the same pension with the two (Continued on page 174) - “ULYSSES” of th: Septe A pe any « fo w beau conte oune will, prep price to try Powe addi Stat Pow S

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173 GUE September 15, 1925

A D 8S , in con A y to th fluence s. Wooll, Ive spon- 3 - 1eir par- BEA. not pos SS one why ee d indig a Ne of th: ind hi it as h Not tha ate sen ore : . ry turn ee Oe , ‘fin .. MON. he. x s of all font. oa, 2 ut bot! : i? he odys rough ; e circum * ngs and the in- a En WML another, - of the e * S; and i of Hypnotic! lropic Mionts — r 1 pages. urations Z party ‘ . tet, an: : rows a radiant an N a verdant valley high among the hills of Mexico, there ere — for the flower. Indian legend has it that this flower welcomes the ae apr : caresses of the Moon while scorning the smiles and — ) ; on Of a zs 3 any. —_ ; ala for it gives forth its fragrance only in the night—never by day en ap- 5 1° rer . : cent—a ql It is a flower of exceeding beauty, with a strangely striking s si —w scent softly subtle and seductive with the mystery vers — a now ing . “ Ps = es like ’ seer hypnotic tropic nights; an exalting fragrance that exhilara : and, o : , sui- it ni stirs the hopes = ee aay and hearts of youth, a lovely Spanish Senorita named tha “aig la Noche—or Fragrance of the Night. —e ico’ spire aga Now that moon-glow fragrance from neuen s rare rho ~ ~ ph . | ny other ever a a marvelous new perfume, a perfume all unlike any oo womankind. jomen : i anish name of Olor acredi- Like the flower, that perfume has been given the Sp — de la Noche— Fragrance of the Night. ‘bsch). son by . : .50 to gest HENit’snight-timeand pleasuretime be sampled and purchased. Or send em Ks a] : beather charming Raquel, Inc., and the one-ounce size of this bem and one wishes to be at her c Ib ‘led t rien best, a drop or two of Olor de la Noche marvelous new perfume will be mailed to oe , A . i charming container. a. adds a magic that is matchless. youina wesenconenin — g a GA 5 ee Olor de la Noche is so new that not many AQUEL also has — a _ ne subtl ” t have it—and so delightfully dif- Face Powder, a superb new Tale an inine t roca : a superb new Sachet—each a. — ferent and desirable that ; | op t perfume allunlike ++ 411 repays a search ‘oe QUE lightly scented with de- 1ining A per, com cian it w , , a" pigchonnant + tgs for a counter where it can sicibimiba mapas lightful Olor de la Noche. col - agg aga 315 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK container, e one- -s he'- ounce size is $4.50. It for all will be mailed to you pt to- prepaid on receipt of es the price, Ifyou wish also : ; to try the Talc or Face Or c G) 6) in her Powder, include $1.00 meli- additional for each. | ( So State shade of Face Tragnance of the Nught ) udian Powder desired, SeSs- (< A MARVELOUS NEW PERFUME _2) alist, x... e two

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174 604 Fifth Avenue, the new home of Ogilvie Sisters Old Service in a New Salon Ogilvie Sisters, Hair, Scalp and Henna Specialists Move to Larger Quarters October Ist OR over twenty years the seven Ogilvie Sisters have been working miracles in the care of the hair and scalp —miracles that are in reality built on the sure foundation of common sense and experience. Their enormous clientele, including hundreds of promi- nent names, is ample proof of their success. About October first, they are moving to a newer, more spacious salon to accommodate their ever increasing business. Yet in spite of this growth, the personal touch has never been lost. One of the sisters is always on hand to take a personal interest in you, to make sure your scalp receives the individual attention it requires. A Tonic for Each Type Ogilvie Sisters have proven it is not possible for one tonic to benefit every- body, but perfected three tonics which have worked wonders in thousands of cases, The Oily Scalp: The Tonic for Oily Hair is an astringent which grad- ually normalizes the oil flow, cleansing the hair and enabling one to avoid the ill effects of the too-fre- quent shampoo. $2.00. Tke Dry Scalp: The Tonic for Dry Hair nourishes the scalp lacking nat- ural oils, and gives a well groomed, glossy appearance. It stops the ends breaking. $2.00, The Tired Scalp: (After illness, oper- ations or nervous strain). The Special Remedy checks falling hair and re- moves dandruff. $2.00. Personal Advice by Mail If there is not an Ogilvie Sisters section in the Beauty Department of a Department Store in your city, or if you cannot come to the Salon of Ogilvie Sisters you may still receive their expert, personal help without charge. Write a letter describing the condition of your hair and scalp fully, and you will be told exactly what is the best treatment for your case. You may also have a copy of the booklet “Beautiful Hair by Common Sense Methods” containing much valuable information. Orlhissutn Hair, Scalp and Henna Specialists 505 Fifth Avenue [Dept. 39] New York City 308 Boylston Street Boston, Mass. ~ 23 Rue de la Paix Paris MWY, (After Oct. rst, 604 Fifth Ave.) 1106 Connecticut Avenue Washington, D. C. WHAT 1H = ¥ VOGUE nA D (Continued from page 172) girls, becomes violently enamoured of Rolande and indulges in a series of ef- forts to seduce her, which form the main theme of the story. They have numerous conversations, in which twentieth-cen- tury frankness of discussion is given a slightly anachronistic twist by the re- peated use of those beloved Victorian words, “pure” and “purity.” The mod- ern reader becomes positively gleeful as he encounters statements that would have been pregnant with meaning for his grandmother in her girlhood, such as “she always acted as if she was a pure girl,” or “I had a dreadful feel- ing that I was isolated, cut off from the rest of mankind, by purity.” Rolande wants to impress us as strong, intellectual, and altogether charming; she does impress us, for the most part, as a horrible little prig spilling over with conceit and_ self-righteousness. But, though it may seem contradictory, because of the very faults, the book has a certain originality that makes a read- ing at least without the sense of over- whelming staleness that accompanies so many. And the picture of student life in Munich is faithful and good. If Muriel Miller Humphrey’s collec- tion represents indeed “THE BEST LOVE STORIES OF 1924” (Small, Maynard), one is moved to believe that the output of the past year must have been very poor indeed; for the proclaimed best are, with a few exceptions, indifferent- ly good, and even, in some cases, rather poor. However, opinions are sure to differ, and there will no doubt be many to find the collection as admirably rep- resentative as the compiler herself has done, Several authors of no little note are included; Zona Gale, Struthers Burt, Frederick Orin Bartlett, and others, making twenty-one in all. The types and topics are fairly extensive in range, the term “love” being used to cover all aspects of the emotion, and not merely love between the sexes. Another collection of short stories, all of which appeared originally in mag- azine form, is “BIGGER AND BLACKER,” by Octavus Roy Cohen (Little, Brown). These stories, the chief merit of which lies in their ingenuity, deal with the Darktown personages of Birmingham, Alabaina. The same characters reappear in all of them and make of the eight tales, though each is complete in itself, more of a single narrative than is usu- ally the case in short story compila- tions. The stories centre about the affairs of the Midnight Pictures Corporation, an organization of negros making two- reel comedy films. The chief charac- ters are the elegant “glass of fashion and mould of form,” Florian Slappey; the astute president of the corpora- tion, Orifice Latimer; J. Caesar Clump, director; Welford Potts, light comedy star; Lawyer Chew, and others. Mr. Cohen is a master of verbal trickery, as is shown in his titles. “The Bath- ing Booty,” “A Little Child Shall Feed Them,” “Inside Inflammation,” “Write and Wrong,” are typical of the quirks by which he gets his effects; and the same trend is evident in the stories themselves, Though the stories are all humor- ous, and the author pokes fun at his dusky neighbours, it is kindly fun; and, underlying the spirit of travesty, there is, at least there seems to be, a genu- ine recognition and appreciation of the childlike, simple zest for vivid living, the presence of which is an important contribution that the negro race has to offer to its older, more wearied, and more sophisticated neighbours. Among recent compilations is “THE STEAMER BOOK,” subtitled “A MISCEL- LANY FOR VOYAGERS ON ALL SEAS,” edited by Edwin Valentine Mitclel| (Dodd, Mead). This is a collection, in seven parts, of many facts, poeins, tales, charts, and so on, specifically pertinent for the seafarer. Under ‘he heading of the first part, “Ships, Nay- igation and Navigators,’ there is q medley of information, such as visi. bility at sea, size of a boat and the im. portance of that factor, a definition of tonnage, a discussion of seasickniss, and so on. A traveller’s log, covering twelve days, and a nautical vocabuliry are appended; and on the lining of the back cover, there is an outline map of the world. Among the contributors to the iit. erary part of the book are many noted persons of all periods, including Di: k- ens, Horace Walpole, Walt Whitmin, Chesterton, Ruskin, Chatterton, Wilkie Collins, Darwin and Shelley. These are just a few of the names _ rcp- resented, chosen at random to show the catholicity of the compiler’s in- terests and taste. Altogether, the book should contribute to the voyager’s cn- joyment of his hours on board. A tale of adventure, all the more interesting in that it is not a tale in the accepted sense, but a narrative of actual happenings, is “THE ADVENTURE OF WRANGEL ISLAND,” by Vilhjalmur Stefansson (Macmillan). The book is based upon the journals of two of the four young men who started bravely out three years ago to take the island for Canada, refusing to believe “that the romance of territorial expansion by discovery and colonization is now a century out of date.” They, and Mr. Stefansson, who remained behind to convince the government of the im- portance of the island as a strategic point in the increasingly important Arctic regions, pooled all the money they had to finance the trip. There follows an absorbing recital of their experiences, their hardships, and even- tual deaths, and an elaborate refuta- tion of certain newspaper articles that basely distorted the facts and detracted from the courage and heroism which, according to authentic accounts, the young explorers showed. Though this is not, it goes without saying, a “boys’ book,” boys, with their proverbial love of adventure, will cer- tainly be among its most enthusiastic readers, though, perhaps, no reader of any age of either sex will fail to feel the lure of strange happenings in dis- tant lands. “THE STORY OF WOMAN,” by W. L. George (Harper), is the work of a man who, justifiably or no, has won recog- nition for himself as an astute student of woman and an authority upon all that concerns her, either as an individ- ual or as a collective sex. His name attached to the present volume, there- fore, lends it additional weight. Mr. George begins with prehistoric woman, whose status, of course, is purely speculative, and goes through the earliest recorded period, that of the patriarchs, down the centuries of strug- gle and evolution to the present cay, when, comparatively speaking, wonian has come into her freedom. He does not think that she has as yet attained to the fulness thereof, but feels sure that she will lose nathing of what she has gained, that “no period which now lies in the womb of time will find the strength or the desire to add new bands to woman’s feet as she pursues her unknown course into the future.” A valuable part of the book is an appendix in the form of a bibliography, giving a great many reference books for those who wish to make a further study of the subject. (Continued on page 188) Se ; || jee || Sup to tk each of th B anyt’ a len 373 its te It Mad

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OGUE A D e Mitchel collecti mn, wi poenis, specifica lly Under ‘he hips, N:vy- there is q h as visi. nd the im. -finition of easickni ss. y, COVering vocabuliry 1ing of the ne map of to the iit. lany noted ling Dick- Whitmin, on, Wilkie xy. These mes rcp- - to show piler’s in- _ the book ager’s cn- ‘d. the more a tale in rrative of .DVEN TURE Jilhjalmur ie book is wo of the d_ bravely the island lieve “that expansion is now a and Mr. sehind to the im- strategic important 1e money ». There of their and even- e refuta- icles that detracted m which, unts, the 3 without vith their will cer- thusiastic reader of il to feel ‘Ss in dis- y W. L. of a man ym recog- e student upon all | individ- lis name le, there- it. rehistoric ourse, is through at of the of strug- sent cay, , woman He does attained eels sure what she lich now find the ~w bands sues her e.”” 9k is an ography, -e books . further ) September 15, 1925 Free kw E L es a i | Pex m : ow Before its life has well started— Suppose your average Pepperell double-sheet is going to the wash every day (instead of every two weeks) —suppose you ask that sheet to pay you back one cent each time it is washed (since wash-day is the milestone of the life of a sheet). Before a year is half gone, that sheet won’t owe you anything! The rest of its life is free to you. And what a length of service— We have an average Pepperell sheet that was washed 373 times. There are dozens more washing: left in it; its texture is soft as a handkerchief. It is eighty years now since a New England house- = Cae | ea See i a; “27Y MAINE OD, a > Ra) i This ticket (in red) appears on all Poi perell Sheets, Sheeting and Pillow Caseg and is our guarantee of highest quality. * PEPPRERELL, SHEETING of ects" PILLOW “—s, Made by the Pepperett Manuracturinc Company, that she (The rest of its long life of service is feel), Sahar, lil Saale eet has S'paid 1 its way! Fy ee ~J Wa. ‘ wife fling’ ‘the-first Pépperel Ik heet“to the sunlight of “Her dootyard “Bat thatesbeet.was no better than the a “Inillions frat Have followed; always good honest cotton, : sealevays- -skilful:-weaving,-ahvays -light. texture but jirm, 2 always. thé quaint Fea I label “the ‘label that means incon- osteltably longyand ‘eoinfortable usefulness to every Amer- ican woman. r she knows'} at it’s,downright extravagant to put Basa ci mostoftheDEds inthe house. ~ She judges the sheet -not alone b by its ; “feel” in the store, but bye perlthe texture-izfber: ‘Pépeatetand multiplied washings. Ever¢-state has alsfiost evesy_size. 160 Strate Street, Boston, Massachusetts : Mit at Bipperor, Maine, avd Opevixa, ALABAMA

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176 “Here Dewellr Touth <A 5

FRY imparts to women everywhere the way to fresh and lasting beauty N your own home, with the Primrose House preparations, you may easily give to your face and neck the appearance of youthful contour and keep the skin firm, lovely and fresh. These prepara- tions, perfected in actual use by New York’s smartest beauty salon, are as scientific in their origin and as distinctive as Primrose House itself. They are on sale at leading department stores and smart shops throughout the country. Ask about them at your favorite shop. The following preparations, rec- ommended for lines,wrinkles, sagging and double chin, are used in the Face Molding Treatment. Try them at home ten minutes a day and you will achieve results you never dreamed could be possible. Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream— Use freely night and morning with wet absorbent cot- ton to cleanse the skin immaculately. Wipe off with soft cloth or Primrose House Cleansing Tissues. $1.00, $2.00, $3.50. Skin Freshener—Fine, vital and youthful is the appearance of the skin which, after cleansing with Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream, is bathed with absorbent cotton saturated in Skin Freshener. $1.25, $3.00. Face Molding Cream—A stimulating and nourishing cream of unparalleled benefit in building up the underlying tis- sues to add new vigor to the skin and prevent lines and wrinkles. $1.50, $3.00. Balsam Astringent—Use to tighten the skin, especially in the troublesome, crucial spots about the cheeks, chin, neck and eyes. $2.50, $4.00. In addition to the essentials for Face Molding, Primrose House Preparations incl::de creams, lotions, face powders and rouges—the most perfect of their kind to be had any- where and scientifically developed to accomplish definite results in adding new beauty to the skin, hands and hair. Primrose House Bleach Cream —A single application will demonstrate how per- fectly this cream clears and tones the skin. Also a valuable aid in removing freckles, brown spots and other discolorations on the face, neck, arms and hands. $2.00, $3.50. Primrose House Treasure Box —A richly lacquered metal box containing in- troductory sizes of eleven selected Primrose House Beauty aids. Ideal for a gift—Spe- cially priced at $5.00. Gw ow If your store cannot supply you with any of the above preparations, they will be sent direct from Primrose House on receipt of price. Every woman interested in ways to care for the skin, hands and hair, that have proved remarkably effective, should write for a copy of the Primrose House Book- let—“Here Dwells Youth”. Mailed free to cny ad/ress. vimrose House SEAST52™ST, New YorK, ; Department A-4 *Reg. U. S. Pat. Off, dwells youth”’

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VOGUE EAST OF VENICE IS BRIONI (Continued from page 150) Now what can you do for such excellence of character? I hope some day she will marry an American mil- lionaire, who will take her to live in a palazzo in Rome. “Tl Duca” had charge of the horses. He was an impoverished duke of an old and honourable family in Rome. He had been a famous cavalry officer, and sat on his horse with an air. He wore shiny black boots, and loud breech- es, and a “movie” hero’s sports shirt. He was very temperamental about his horses. It was almost impossible to persuade him to let you hire one. But, if it wasn’t too early, or too late, or ioo hot, or too cold, he would round up his troop of riders and take them for a canter around the natural bridle paths, with not a motor on the island to bother them. An incongruous group of riders in outré costumes, with bor- rowed and inappropriate garments, because many of us went to Brioni, not expecting to ride, and an Aus- trian island is far from the sports shops of Bond Street, The duke often looked amazed at us, but would start us off with a bored air, probably think- ing to himself, “How different are these creatures from the ladies and gentlemen who ride in the Pincio on Sunday mornings! Ah! Before the War—those were the happy days!” AN INTERNATIONAL MATCH When the tennis tournament was an- nounced, I said, “In six languages! It can’t be done.” But it went fairly smoothly, because the international speech of tennis is English. Italians, Russians, Austrians, Czechs, Jugo- Slavians—they all said ‘“Feefteen, thirtee, fortee, deuce, advantage, game.” And even a sportsmanlike “Good shot!” when, through the opponent’s skill, they missed a ball. In the final mixed doubles, an Amer- ican man (a professor of English at Yale) played with a Hungarian woman against a Russian woman and _ her French-Swiss partner. The referee, on his perch, was a Czech, in horn-rim- med spectacles. The Yale professor, knowing most languages, but not Mag- yar, could only smile his approval at his partner’s skill. But their team- work was perfect, and the American- Hungarian side won. The victors and the vanquished shook hands across the net. Then, there was the dance contest in the “Bowl.” I never knew the local name for the “Bowl,” but it looked like one of the restaurants in the Bois— all lights and flowers and trees and music and cool drinks. Tke moon shone above the cypresses, and the Adriatic stretched beyond. Most of the dancers were so expert that the newcomers, with only average prowess, sat abashed and quiet on their first evening in the “Bowl,” and then dashed off to Frau- lein D., the Viennese professional, or to Monsieur, le danseur, from Poland, who gave lessons to the ladies. There they worked feverishly, learning the tango, and the “pas double,” and the latest correct fashion of holding a lady’s hand or resting it on a gentle- man’s shoulder. THE DANCE CONTEST The dance ccntest, like the tennis, was most international. The judges sat in a solemn row. They were the leading princesses, marchesas, and baronesses, and a few professional dan- cers from Vienna. After much elimi-

nation, the first prize finally went to a Turkish girl dancing with an Austrian; the second, to an English girl with her courtly Egyptian partner; the third, also to an English girl, who danced with an Italian man. No American was in at the finals that night. The only echo from the United States was the orchestra playing “What’ll I do?” and “Yes, We Have No Bananas” with an Austrian accent and no saxo- phone. THE COSSACKS ARRIVAL One day, we were idly watching the noon boat from Pola as it néared our pier, not much interested, because it seldom bore anything more exciting than the hotel ice and the daily veal. Then, down the gangplank stamped a horse! A strange, wild-looking man, beside him, leaped to the horse’s back. The horse reared, and the man shouted in a queer language. Then more stamp- ing, and down from the boat came ten more horses and riders. They wore tight-fitting black blouses with flaring skirts, high red boots, astrakhan caps, and many fierce knives in their belts. Recalling the doormen at a New York restaurant, we guessed what they were. They were Cossacks. With this unexpected group on the pier, there was immediate excitement. Was a foreign foe seizing the island? Four Fascisti marched to meet them, also two carabinieri, and three ex-soldier stewards, ready for something more exciting than making beds. No one could talk to them. The little Austrian proprietor bustled down. The Herr Direktor goose-stepped from his office, pompously. Just then, a little Russian, the Princess O., saw them. She was one of those sad, homesick, wandering princesses. She ran to the pier and be- came the interpreter for the Cossacks. That afternoon, they gave an exhibi- tion of their wild riding, with a few songs and dances as extras. Princess O. explained to us that they were a group of anti-Bolshevik southern Rus- sians, who were not allowed to return to their own land, and that they wan- dered about Europe doing the only thing they could do to make a little money. That evening at twilight. they left, singing the sad songs of old Rus- sia on the deck of the departing steamer. The little princess watched them from the pier and wiped away her tears. ANCIENT ISLAND HISTORY There is a bit of ancient history on the island, too. It has its own Roman remains. We were walking, one day to the remote parts of the shore, and came upon the ruins of a Roman villa, crumbled basins of baths, and two broken columns, all that was left of a temple to some goddess of the golden age. It was fun to think about it. So Brioni was a summer resort then, too! Fifteen hundred years ago, perhaps Mr. and Mrs. Caius Julius Virgilic crossed the Apennines, carried in litters from their home near Rome: boarded their galley at Rimini; and were rowed up the Adriatic for days and days. They probably had said to a trav- elled acquaintance, Mrs. Horace, “We want to get off the beaten track of Roman resorts. Somewhere new. A place where there is something to do A summer resort with a gay atmos- phere. Not too many Romans anc Greeks.” And Mrs. Horace had said. “Go t Brioni.”

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NI nt to a strian ; ith her third, danced 1erican . The es was [ do?” nanas”” ») SAXO- ng the ed our use it xciting y veal, uped a - man, ; back. houted stamp- came They ; With rakhan 1 their a New it they th this there Vas a Four 1, also soldier more oO one ustrian Herr office, issian, ‘as one dering nd be- ssacks. »xhibi- a few ‘incess vere a | Rus- return Wwan- - only little t. they | Rus- arting atched away ry on foman e day e, and 1 villa, 1 two t of a zolden it; Sc 1. too! rhaps ‘irgilic litters varded rowec ys. trav- en \'f ck of Ww. A to do itmos~ s an Go t September 15, 1925 HOE style experts agree that the shoe is now more than a foot covering. It is part of .a woman’s costume and must be considered in its relation to the ensemble. Satin shoes are therefore the perfect footwear. Whether they match or contrast with the frock, hose or other accessories, they pre- serve the complete unity because of their material — and satin shoes make the foot look smaller. Orly Skinner’s Shoe Satin, made ex- pressly for shoes, is as superior to ordinary shoe satins as Skinner lin- ings are to other lining satins. It has extraordinary strength and un- equalled richness of appearance. In buying slippers and shoes, it is advisable to ask for those made of Skinner’s Shoe Satin, to make sure of wearing quality. WILLIAM SKINNER & SONS Established 1848 New York, Chicago, Boston, Phila.—Méills, Holyoke, Mass. Skinner's Shoe Satin “LOOK FOR THE NAME IN THE SELVAGE”

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6, —~ a J i, ™ =. he 2 Ch Decree) _. Fashion says Sport Clothes for Fall. . . for every day-time occasion. At your Favorite Shop you will find a complete our wardrobe embracing smartest inspirations! DEL MONTE-HICKEY 246 WEST 38TH STREET, New York VOGUE ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS NY reader can obtain from Vogue Information Service answers to questions on social con- ventions, customs, entertaining, and matters of etiquette, on costume and fashion, on’ household decoration, on shops and wholesale houses dealing in merchandise of interest to Vogue read- ers, and on other subjects that fall with- in the scope of this magazine, by con- forming to the following regulations. RULES TOR CORRESPONDENTS (1) The name and address must be legibly written or printed at the begin- ning or end of every letter. (2) In order to answer all inquiries promptly, Vogue suggests that as few questions as possible be asked in any one letter; a reply may be delayed be- cause of the totally unrelated questions contained in a letter, any one of which may require a considerable amount of research to answer it adequately. (3) Unless especially requested to keep a reply confidential, Vogue is priv- ileged to publish any inquiry and an- swer that it considers of interest to its readers. Miss E. K.: I have occasion quite frequently to take in from my office to the office of my employer (whose pri- vate secretary I am) people whom he has not previously met and to introduce them. In the case of men, should I simply say to him, “Mr. Wilson, this is Mr. Smith,” regardless of any superior social rank or senior age of the person beingintroduced? Inthe case of women, even those of superior rank or age, it seems awkward, in taking them to meet a man instead of taking the men tothem, and, in the somewhat abrupt entry one generally makes into an office, to say “Mrs. Smith, may I present Mr. Wil- son?) especially when she is seeking the interview. What would be the proper form? Ans.: It is not necessary to introduce aman or woman who calls to see one’s employer on business; one would, in such a case, announce the caller, rather than introduce him or her. For in- stance, if Mr. Smith were calling to see one’s employer, Mr. Wilson, one would simply announce Mr. Smith by saying “Mr. Wilson, here is Mr. Smith.” The formality of drawing-room manners is not required in a business office; but, of course, courtesy, self-restraint, and consideration are valuable personal as- sets everywhere. If an introduction should be necessary, one would follow the same rules for introducing callers to one’s employer as for introducing people socially, A man is always pre- sented to a woman, except in those rare cases when a woman meets the Presi- dent of the United States, the President of France, the King of England, any other ruler, or a Cardinal of the Roman Catholic Church. When introducing two men, the less distinguished is in- troduced to the more distinguished, for instance, “Mr. Distinguished, may I introduce Mr. Wilson?” If both men are of equal rank, one would mention one’s employer’s name first. Merely pronouncing both names is sufficient, as, “Mr. Wilson, Mr. Smith.” The name “Mr. Wilson” would be uttered with a slightly rising inflection and “Mr. Smith” in a tone lower, without the rising inflection. In the business world, it is quite proper for women to call on men, and, as we have stated above, the man is always introduced to the woman, regardless of her rank or age, whether in a business office or a drawing-room, except in the cases mentioned above. Miss D. R.: I wish to have a simple afternoon church wedding. In _ the small town in which I live, many “‘well- wishers” and onlookers attend, whethe they are invited or not. To avoid this I should like to enclose a card of ad- mission to the church. Should such ; card be engraved and enclosed with th: invitation? How should it be worded: Which form of invitation is in bette: taste, that which is entirely engravec or that which has space for writing th: guest’s name? What is the latest pos sible date at which wedding invitation: may be issued ? Ans.: If the church wedding is larg: and one is afraid of having au unin vited, as well as an invited assemblage cards of admission accompany the in vitation. They will read as follows: PLEASE PRESENT THIS CARD AT SAINT MARTIN’S CHURCH ON SATURDAY, THE THIRTIETH OF NOVEMBER AT TWELVE O’CLOCK Only those presenting the cards o1 those of so well-known an appearanc: that the sexton and ushers recogniz them will be allowed to enter. The accepted formula for a wedding invitation is as follows: MR. AND MRS. STEWART BARNEY REQUEST THE HONOUR OF YOUR PRESENCE AT THE MARRIAGE OF THEIR DAUGHTER MARY ALICE PRISCILLA TO MR. JOHN KEAN ON TUESDAY, THE TWENTIETH OF JANUARY AT HALF AFTER THREE O’CLOCK AT THE CHURCH OF THE INCARNATION NEW YORK CITY It is not necessary to insert the guest’s name in each invitation, unless one wishes to do so. The invitations are issued from two to three weeks before the date of the wedding. Miss N. D.: My marriage will take place early in the autumn,and I will be grateful for advice in regard to the smart costume shades for travelling, sports, and evening for this season. Ans.: For travelling, dark grey will be very smart, and almost any colour may be worn with it. Green is also smart, and with this may be worn a lighter shade of the same colour or neutral colours to match the fur, if any is worn. Wine shades and reds, tending towards a currant-red, will also be smart. Browns and beiges and greens, the latter possibly combined with beige, will be best for sports wear. The smartest evening dresses are of metal laces and brocade. In velvets and crépes, such colours as fuchsia, deep peony-red, a clear shade of dark blue (a shade of blue darker than blue- pencil blue), and purple are correct. Mrs. W. McC.: Please advise me from which side of the chair one enters to be seated at the table and from which side one rises. Please advise me, also, if it is ever correct for a woman to dine or have luncheon or breakfast in a hotel without a hat. Ans.: The question, “Which side of the chair does one pass to be seated it a table?” is asked by many. In the first place, it does not matter one particle as far as people of real breeding are concerned. They do as the occasion seems to demand. It seems the most natural thing to draw the chair ot with the right hand and pass around the left side. But, if the chair or te table is so placed that it is more cci- venient to enter from the right sice, there is absolutely no reason why one should not take that course. Conveiii- ence and common sense are the deciding factors. Women may dine at a hotel without hats under certain circumstances. If (Continued on page 182) Sept Gq? =) frc

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GUE VTS | simple In the y “well- whethe id this of ad- such ; vith th rorded : 1 bette: igravec ting th *st pos itations is larg 1 unin mblage the in. WS: VEMBER rds or earance cogniz vedding EY sENCE jHTER ANU ARY ‘K \1TION ert the unless itations weeks ill take I will | to the velling, son. ey will colour is also worn a our or fur, if d reds, vill also es and mbined Ss wear. are of ets and 2, deep rk blue 1 blue- rrect. rise me > enters d from rise me, woman eakfast side of ated «it the first particle ing are ccasion le most air out around or tie re ccn- ht sice, rhy one ‘onveiii- leciding without ces. If ) September 15, 1925 hn soy On” i HE woman who looks well in any style is the woman with a good figure. She hasa good figure because she takes good care of it— she ‘‘grooms’’ it. To be well groomed, your figure requires a com- fortable, correctly fitted corset and a Modart front lacing corset is the ideal means to ‘‘Fig- are-Grooming.”’ It fits snugly and smoothly and protects and preserves the natural lines of youth, without the slightest sense of restraint. Go to the corset department of any of the better stores, ask the corsetiere to show you the new Modart front lacing corsets. Take one in your hands, roll it up ina ball, see how soft and pli- able it is. Compare its feathery lightness, its beautiful materials and fine workmanship. For the slender girl a Modart Boneless Girdle provides just the necessary touch of “Figure-Groom- ing’’ the slender figure requires. A Modart Bras- Siere worn with any Modart waist- line corset gives the long, smooth, flat line to figures of larger proportions, Notice how cleverly the elastic inserts are placed for ease and freedom of movement. The adjustment in a Modart front lacing corset is accomplished by the lacing and does not de- pend on elastic so that with it you will have a comfortable and smooth fitting garment long after the corset without lacing has lost its elastic- ity and usefulness. The front lacing corset does not stretch nor allow your figure to “‘stretch.”’ Take advantage of Modart ‘‘Figure-Grooming”’ service that tells you what particular model you should wear. Just ask the corsetiere. She will help you select the one Modart best suited to your individual figure requirements. MODART CORSET COMPANY Factory: Saginaw, Michigan + New York Office: 362 Fifth Ave. JM(ODART FIGURE-GROOMING ae nae S > £ORBSEE TS COM Pin ATi oO N:S e "SEA $$ I-E RS S

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180 VOGUR

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REG. US. PAT. OFF. T.G.P. CO.

Correct Shoes for Women and Young Women AMERICA’S BEST-KNOWN MAKE Y INDIANAPOLIS, IND. Rink’s Cloak House, Inc.

ASK FOR ‘*QUEEN QUALITY” 7 AT THESE AND OTHER LEADING STORES THE JACKSONVILLE, Fa. Cohen Brothers. COUNTRY OVER | ° ; LE : : Baan ee | I HE charm of styles seen in VocuE, and shown in pronekarg ene eee. *1 ind Los ANGELEs, CAL. Broadway Dept. Store, Inc. Asterisks [*] indicate Queen Quality Boot Shops ; ; LoultsviLte, Ky. *536 South Fourth Street. foe the shops of QUEEN QUALITY, is a reflection of the iaasinaee Wants: en Block. New York, N. Y. *32-34 West 34th Street. i : M1aMI, Fra. Nankin’s Shoe Shop. Avroona, Pa. ARinin ts Co. new trend toward SHOE TYPES of DISTINCTION, with Mount Vernon, N. Y. Genung’s. AsHEVILLE, N. C. The Leader. NASHVILLE, TENN. Amianta, Ga. M. Rich & Bros. Co. an emphasis on BLACK—as shown here in Ooze, | Saag oem gegen Aucusta, Ga. J. B. White Co. New Haven, Conn. The Gamble-Desmond Co. BaLTimore, Mp. Frank Zimmermann. oT Ba tn : rede (ie! e ‘ Newark, N. J. Bedell’s sone a “Patent, Vici, and Satin—that is widely evidenced. | Niwoncsans,La. The Kreeger Store, Inc BrrMINGHAM, ALA. Hirsch Millinery Co. . Oxtanoma City, OKLA. Brecedsorcn, las. Cteeet Shine Co. STYLES and MATERIALS In BLACK and COLORS, The Kerr Dry Goods Co. , Boston, Mass. *158 Tremont Street. ‘ . F PasADENA, CAL. Brockton Shoe Mart. BripcePport, Conn. Howland Dry Goods Co. as varied as OcCastons Tequire, are ready everywhere Succeeded by B. Farber. Burrao, N. Y. PITTSBURGH, Pa. *235 Fifth Avenuc. . - Adam, Bip res ee oe in these and other shops of (QUEEN QUALITY Pu each ceptor oe J. R. Libby Co. uTTE, Mont. ymons Dry Goods Co. ROVIDENCE, R. I. Camorn, N., J. A. Kobus Sens. ° . Callender, McAuslan & Troup Co». “taser te imimete es new creation stamped with the QUEEN QUALITY insiinin Wa wi rameaee tn. CINCINNATI, OHIO Jos. Pietzuch Co. ° ‘ Rocuester, N.Y. Gould, Lee & Webster, Inc. eacaetaiens op et a name, revealing and assuring you of WHAT YOU SACRAMENTO, CAL. Hale Bros. In.. Co.umsus, Ga. Kirven Shoe Co. é SAVANNAH, Ga. Leopold Adler. Co.tumBus, Ox10 The Dunlap Shoe Co. WANT In your shoes at all times. SPRINGFIELD, Mo. The Heer Stores Co. Dattas, Texas A. Harris & Co. Inc. St. Louis, Mo. Brandt’s, In : Davenport, lowa J. H.C. Petersen’s Sons Co. b Tampa, FLA. O. Falk's. Denver, CoLo. *831 Sixteenth Street. ee a Terre Haute, IND. The Root Dry Goods C Detroit, Micu. *1417 Woodward Avenue. Totepo, Ox10 *501 Adams Stree. EVANSVILLE, IND. Salm Bros. Troy, N. Y. Wm. H. Frear & Co. Inc. ee eine: Teas < tenkiatee GeeleTe, The QUEEN QUALITY Trade Mark IDENTIFIES Waco, Texas The Goldstein-Migel Co. Fresno, Cat. E. Gottschalk & Co. Inc. and associates the makers with all distributors in ‘ WasuincTon, D. C. *1219 F Street, N. W’. Granp Rapips, Micx. ‘ . Watersury, CONN. Howland & Hughes Co. Charles Trankla & Company. their RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR SATISFACTION Wumincton,Dr. — F. H. Beaston. HARTFORD, CONN. Brown, Thomson & Co. AND AT OTHER LEADING STORES Houston, Texas Foley Bros. Dry Goods Co. kL — 4 THROUGHOUT AMERICA THOMAS G. PLANT COMPANY, Makers 93 BICKFORD STREET, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S. A.

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TOGUR ses ise, Inc. rothers. sx Sons. yre, Inc. . Street. 1-Block e Shop. nung’s. ods Co. ond Cx sedell’s re, Inc. ods Co. e Mar Farber \venus. by Co. up C -o. In er, Inc. os. Inc. Adler. res Co. *s, Inc. Falk's. yds C Streec. 0. Inc. gel Co. N. W. es Co. saston. ANA a THE-LIGHT:STRAIGHT-EIGHT LKQIQIRGGGGOGGGGGGGGEGC UGG GGCEGCTGT GGG UCC GUC GUCTTGSTTCT TUT T GGT GGG Pee eeeeeeeeeeeteeeeHtdoneseeeeeHee ee ee) EASY TO START EASY TO STEER. EASY TO STOP Tamed, harnessed, under the thumb —easy to start, steer, park and stop —Diana Eight’s appeal to women is irresistible. They can’t shut their eyes to it, can’t disregard it. Diana was engineered for women to drive. And here are results they sense, see, feel and want. ( Diana engineers won't go back. They have burnt their bridges behind them, have definitely committed themselves to a design that fits the needs of the greatest potential market — women—and in pleasing women, they cater to all. Q Diana is the Light Straight Eight for 1926, sturdy, enduring, de- pendable —a pioneer of dar- ing ideas and new-day per- formance. Its sensational sweep has stumped the industry. A great en- gine with every power advan- tage, eager to go, alive, “THE EASIEST STEERING CAR IN AMERICA” = & \e) AS WOMEN BUYERS OUTNUMBER MEN 15 TO 4 | alerr—73 horsepower with a flexi- bility of from 2 to 77 miles an hour. Acceleration, 5 to 25 miles an hour in 6% seconds. The Lanchester Dampener positively eliminates vibration, blots ic out. And the torque is the smoothest. The lighter -and more frequent explosions stop the jerking at low speeds, stop the complaints from the rear seat. The entire chassis is designed and built for balloon tires. The brakes are 4-wheel hydraulic. But more than a new-day engineering achieve- ment, Diana is the outstanding coup d'état since the self-scarter came into use. ( Come, now, — get into this great car, try it out. Make the hills and the rough your prov- ing ground. That’s © where the Diana Light Eight shows her heels, takes the lead and holds ic. 4 Roadster $1895. Phaelon $1895 Slandard Four-Door Sedan $1995 Cabriolet Roadster $2095 | Two-Door Brougham DeLuxe $2095 Four-Door Sedan DeLuxe $2195 FO. B. St. Louis Builc by che MOON MOTOR CAR COMPANY for the DIANA MOTORS COMPANY - Stewart McDonald, Pres., Sc. Louis, U. S. A.

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UNDERWEAR Dainty exquisitely made undergar- ments of pure glove silk; also of the highest quality fibre. Economical for general use because it wears like iron, and after repeated launderings is as fresh and crisp as the day it was bought. The vests are cut extra long with shoulder straps properly placed. The bloomers are generous in size, and strongly reinforced. Comfort- able step-ins that allow perfect free- dom around the knee. The step-in chemise—a delightful and roomy one-piece garment. Costume slips with slight fullness at the sides, and deep shadow proof hem. All these garments can be had in a beautiful assortment of all wanted shades. If you do not find it at your favorite store write us. ey MRM MIMI Wile Wi IWIN WW

the forcit ordon HOSIERY Pure dyed, unadulterated silk hosiery from the sheerest chiffon to the heaviest silk, made with the utmost care to last long and look beautiful as long as it lasts—in all the shades demanded by fashion today. The hosiery the discriminating woman has been wearing for genera- tions. Sold only in retail stores everywhere at economy prices. Always ask for Gordon Hosiery by name. TAR VATA VA FAS BROWN DURRELL COMPANY Gordon Hosiery - Forest Mills Underwear NewYork Gordon Underwear Boston

G = _ — SES TSF SSE

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DAA ARAAD AAR A SAA ARAASASAARSAARAAR SAR AAA A AA AAA ALA ARs the the ths theths tie doe a dislle lle diy. ——_Z NS LL September 15, 1925 181 Some of the purposes for which Valaze Beauty Preparations have been scientifically prepared Cleansing Designed for the ultra-fastidious, the cooling, refreshing and youth-giving VALAzeE Water Lity CLEANSING Cream, $2.50, $4.00, $7.50 To refresh and replenish your skin with those secretions vital to its health and beauty, to protect it from the effects of exposure, VALAzeE PasTEuRIzED CREAM 402. $1.00, % lb. $2.00, lb. $3.50 To keep your skin scrupulously free of blackheads and other excess pore secre- tions by washing with this deeply pene- trative scap substitute, which will not dry the most sensitive skin, VALAzE BLacx- HEAD AND Open Pore Paste, SPECIAL $1.00, $2.00 Toning —the anti-wrinkle lotion which absorbs the “tired look” from face and eyes. Frases crowsfeet and other lines. A boon to dry, sensitive skins. Varazze Extrair $2.50, $5.00 To tone and brace the skin; close the rores, correct and prevent wrinkles, VALAZE SKIN-TONING LoTION $1.25, $2.50 To stimulate and rejuvenate faded skin, ridding it of its muddy, pasty appearance; to awaken the tissues and prepare them for the feeding and bracing preparations— Vataze EAu VERTE $3.00, $6.00 For sagging, flaccid muscles, you need the marvelously strengthening and rein- forcing Vataze Gerorcine Lacter, $3.00, $6.00 Nourishing If your skin is dry, supersensitive and has a tendency to fine lines and wrinkles, nourish it with the rich Grecian Anti- wrinkle Cream. VALAzE ANTHOSOROS $1.'75, $3.50 To Emphasize Your Beauty Select your make-up to suit your type VALAZE cosmetics are scientifically pre pared to protect as well as enhance your beauty. VatazeE Cream oF Littrs—a_ beautifying and protective powder foundation for every type of skin $1.50, $2.50 Vataze Liquipine—a_ truly marvelous preparation for correcting “shiny” nose and oily skins. Cools, closes the rores, imparts a most flattering finish $1.50, $2.75 Vataze CompLexion Powprer—for average and oily skins $1.00 to $5.50 Vataze Novena Powper—for dry skins— fragrant, clingy, moisture-proof $1.00 to $5.50 Vataze Roucegs (Compacts) Rep GrrantumM—NEW—latest Paris- ian tint—vivid, sparkling, created to glorify youth $1.00 Rep Raspperry — flattering to all skins $1.00 CrusHep Rose Leaves—for the con- servative woman $1.00 VatazeE Roucr-EN-CREME — a most ex- quisite creme rouge. Waterproof! Shades for every type $1.00, $2.00 Vataze Lipstick in colors to match rouges. You will appreciate their adherence, smoothness and convenient containers $1.00 The Water Lily For thirty years, Helena Rubinstein, international beauty specialist, has studied the recipes and formulas that preserve and enhance a woman’s natu- ral beauty. Long since she realized that no two skins are alike. And in thirty years she has learned that there is but one simple secret of beauty: the skin must be active to be beautiful. Through her years of study and research Madame Rubinstein has succeeded in taking the proper care of the complexion out of the realm of darkness into the light of science, of exact knowledge. There is a Valaze Beauty Preparation or Treatment for every individual need. In each Madame Rubinstein has put the exquisite essence of the Water Lily oo (Mystical Eastern Symbol of Beauty) has a message for every woman HE MESSAGE is this: the will to beauty lives within yourself. You cannot grasp blindly at beauty nor stumble upon it in darkness. with its youth-giving properties, with its cooling, cleansing, mystical charm. Valaze Beauty Preparations are scien- tifically created to suit the varying types of skin. Correctly chosen and faith- fully used, even in so short a time as one month you may be sure of results —petal-like qualities of the skin, youth- ful contour of the face, all your natural beauty at its best. Valaze Beauty Preparations with indi- vidual instructions are available in the better class department and drug stores, where attendants have been trained by Madame Rubinstein to advise you. The nearest Salon de Beaute Valaze urges you to feel free to arrange for a personal consultation or treatment: or if to call personally is not convenient, write fully and in confidence to Madame Rubinstein and you may be sure of her attention. There is ready, and you may have for the asking the new issue of “Secrets of Beauty” where you will not only find the latest Valaze Creations but a scientific outline of how to care for every type of skin. Salons de Beaute Valaze Nelona Rebinlein PARIS 46 West 57th Street, New York LONDON CHICAGO BOSTON DETROIT NEWARK p0 N. Michigan Blvd. 234 Boylston Street 1540 Washington Blvd. 951 Broad Street SOUTHAMPTON NEWPORT PALM BEACH

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182 7 wt N s *\ ‘ Y htt eas > = ASS ——— Need not Compromise with CHARM Youthfulness is the vogue. The spirit of young vivacity pervades every waking hour. But even with the most ardent, weariness will intrude to curb our social plans. That is why so many smart women have become faithful followers of that *prescribed hour of rest. But even in her hour of rest and relaxation, the woman of fashion keeps her essential note of dainti- ness and charm. Smart colorful slippers that har- monize with filmy negligee were never so popular— never so correct. The new noie in dainty boudoir slippers has been struck by Daniel Green. Vibrant colors, soft pastel shades, richly patterned fabrics of unusual design, soft leathers, and cozy felts. Their charm is empha. sized by a rare quality of expert workmanship and at- tention to the little points that make a perfect whole. DANIEL GREEN FELT SHOE CO. | DOLGEVILLE, NEW YORK Sales Offices 10 East 43rd Street 10 High Street 189 West Madison Street New York City Chicago, IL Daniel breen \_ Comfy Slip ers co we *A practical method of rest and relaxation for the woman whose r days are filled with work and hurry is to be found ina booklet by Dr. Edwin F. Bowers, which we will gladly send free. We will gladly send you the new Daniel Green Style Book, which pictures in color many of the newer and deintier crea- tions in Danei Green Comfy Slippers. VOGUE ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS (Continued from page 178) they are in evening dress, they certainly would not wear hats. If they are guests at the hotel, they may, if they like, come down to meals at any hour of the day without hats. Mrs. G. Z. D.: If a woman’s escort is wearing a dinner-coat, is it correct for her to wear a hat with her dinner- frock for dinner and the theatre? Ans.: The wearing of a hat with a dinner-frock, when one’s escort is wear- ing a dinner-coat, is a matter for the woman to decide. She may or may not wear it, just as she chooses. Most women do not wear hats in the evening when dining out or attending the thea- tre. But, if one is coming from a dis- tance and prefers to wear a hat, there is no reason why one should not do so. It could be removed at the theatre and left in the coatroom, or it may be re- moved when one reaches one’s seat. Mrs. R. C.: Will you please give me some advice on colours in face powder ? Ochre seems too yellow, and the aver- age rachel powder looks very white on my skin. I have reddish-brown hair and eyes and not a very dark skin. Would a pinkish-rachel be a good tone? Ans.: Rachel is the correct colour for a medium fair skin, such as yours seems to be. Some manufacturers of powder make two shades of rachel— light and dark. The light rachel is really for blondes, as even those with very fair skins should not use the pure white powders. Perhaps, you have been using light rachel, which accounts for its appearing white. We would suggest that you try the dark shade of rachel, and we are sure you will find it the right colour for your skin. The topaz and the pinkish-rachel powder of wh ch you speak are both good for medium fair skins. Another effective powder is a warm peach shade with a yellow tinge, which is blended in light or dark shades to suit either blonde or brunette complexions. Mr. C. F.: I am to hold the position of private tutor for three boys in a wealthy and prominent family during the coming months. Am I expected to fee the servants from whom I may re- ceive service from time to time? More- over, to what extent may I justly ex- pect attention from the servants? Ans.: As private. tutor to the boys of the family, one is, though in the employ of the house, certa.nly a member of the family group. Conventional civility and service should be rendered by the servants. But the position of tutors and governesses in this country has never been well defined, as it is in other countries, and servants do not always quite understand what their duties are in regard to it. For this reason, our advice would be to be as reasonable as possible in making demands and to make them pleasantly. We should also suggest feeing the woman who looks after one’s room, and whatever man brushes one’s clothes and cleans one’s boots. This should be done soon after the arrival. If one tells them that one imagines the trouble of looking after one’s room and clothes will fall upon them and one wants to give them a little on account, one is at once established as a person who knows his position and theirs, and the money will be well ex- pended. We should not offer them less than two dollars each, to begin with, and five dollars, if they deserve it, when one leaves. If the chauffeur does any special extra work for one, he might also be given a small tip, but only when the work is entirely outside what he would be doing for the family. Servants will not expect such tips from a tutor, as a member of the househoid, as they would from a guest. One may decide at leaving whether other servants require recognition. If the servants have been inattentive, one is under no obligation to fee them. Miss E. B.: I am troubled with skin blemishes, brown spots around the mouth, pimples, blackheads, and dark circles around the eyes. I understand from one of your articles that all these can be remedied to some extent and frequently cured. What are the sim- plest treatments in this case, and will you advise a proper diet? Ans.: It is difficult to advise an exact diet in a case concerning which we do not know the physical condition. From the description in your letter, it seems probable that these skin troubles are due to ill health or to an incorrect method of living; one’s physician is the best person to prescr:be for one in a case where any health issue is involved. Generally speaking, a clear skin can be accomplished by eating moderately, choosing natural foods and green vege- tables rather than heavy, sweetened dishes; drinking p.cniy of wacer be- tween meals; getting all the fresh air one can; and bathing and exercising daily. Circles around the eyes may be due to lack of sleep, eye-trouble, or some internal complaint. As a blemish treatment to follow every night for the first few weeks, we would suggest, first, a cleansing of the face with tincture of green soap. This is a liquid that may be obtained at any pharmacy. It is appl.ed to the face with a piece of cloth that has been previously dipped in hot water. A rotary motion should be used, foilowed by a rinsing in cold water. This will soften the skin so that the blackheads nearest the surface may be quite easily removed w.th the fingers protected by a towel. Only those b.em- ishes nearest the surface of the skin should be touched. After this, an as- tringent to contract the open pores is applied. Before retiring, one should apply a heal.ng ointment to the affected parts. Mrs. B. C.: What do you advise for a daytime costume for European travel this autumn—a suit or a dress and coat? If a suit is to be worn, what material would you suggest for a middle-aged slender woman? The travel is to be in France and England. Ans.: A beige kasha ensemble will prove a costume of great versatility for travel, and the ensemble has the advan- tage of coolness, as the coat can be removed with perfect propriety, a thing that would be impossible with a suit. A coat with a plain lining is best, since a number of dresses in harmon- izing tones can be worn with it. A simple printed crépe frock, a plain crépe, possibly a shade lighter than the lining for more formal occasions, and a two-piece balbriggan jersey will all accompany the coat smartly, if they are chosen in the same colour scheme. A medium beige shade is a good choice, as it will not readily show soil. Kasha and crépes and jersey do not wrinkle easily, making them all practical mate- rials, Miss R. B.: Is it customary to send a wedding present when one has re- ceived only a wedding announcement and date of the “at home” day? Ans.: The receipt of a wedding ane nouncement does not necessarily re- quire sending a gift to the bride. This (Continued on page 184) Septe A For] U For Facific Coas No. $1.85 1

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amily. ; from ehoid, e€ may rvants rvants Jer no h skin d the | dark rstand | these it and > sim- d will exact we do From seems >S are orrect is the » ina olved. n can rately, vege- etened or be- sh air cising iay be le, or emish or the , first, icture | that py. it ce of lipped should 1 cold o that e may ingers b.em- skin in as- res is should fected se for travel ; and what ‘or a The gland. e will ty for dvan- in be thing suit. best, ‘mon- & A plain n the , and ll all y are e. A 10iCe, Casha ‘inkle mate- send s re- ment ¥ ane 1 Tee This September 15, 1925 Ask for #895 Full-fashioned pure thread Japan Silk Hosiery For Men, Women and Children Underwear For-Men and Boys Only Pacific Coast prices slightly higher Service hose regular weight full-fashioned No. 895 pure thread Japan silk. Lisle garter top, __ toes, heels and soles. Specially reinforced. $1.85 the pair Dip-dyed. Unadulterated. All shades. Correct style, beauty of weave and color. These have long made Allen-A silk stockings favored by discriminating hosiery buyers. Now we offer you this hosiery in a special style—at a very moderate price. It is made with the same exquisite weave and finish that have made Allen-A hosiery famous $2.00 the pair All shades. Chiffon hose extra sheer full-fashioned, No. 3785 all silk with special inner foot of lisle, woven inside. Dip-dyed. Unadulterated. gf OO ssc | ie “go 3 j for two generations. And it is specially designed to give the ut- most in wear. Ask for this stocking in the weight you want, by number. [See list below]. If your dealer hasn't it, just write us direct. We'll see that you are supplied. THe ALLEN A Company, KENnosHA, WISCONSIN. $1.65 the pair All shades. Heavy pure silk, full-fashioned. Elastic No. 820 mercerized lisle garter tops, scles, heels and toes. Dipdyed. Unadulterated.

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Our productions of complete outfits for boys attending school are the standard of dress at the leading “prep” schools of the East. Suits for school wear made of the most durable English and Scotch woolens; imported sweaters and golf stockings; hats and shoes; under- wear and accessories, Our Autumn exhibition will be held in your city in the near future. We shall be pleased to send you, at your request, a card of admission to this exhibition. DE PINNA Importers and Outfitters 5th Avenue at 50th Street NEW YORK \. : fF VOGUE ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS (Continued from page 182) is, however, a matter to be determined by feeling, rather than convention. If one has known the bride for a long time and is an intimate friend, one would, no doubt, want to send a gift. But if she is a friend of recent acquaintance, it is not necessary to send a gift. She has merely sent a wedding announce- ment for the purpose of telling of her marriage and not with the idea of receiving a gift. Miss M. J. B.: I have always had my own methods of tipping, but, re- cently, I have heard of several other methods that are used when one travels. I should like to know which is correct and your idea of the proper sum. Should one tip at the end of a journey of several days, or tip a small amount at the end of each day, with a larger tip at the end of a journey, or tip for each service done ? Ans.: The matter of tipping, when travelling, is something that many people have found hard to cope with. There are many methods of tipping, and we can not say that one method is more correct than another. Each individual traveller has to decide which method he prefers to adopt. A few lavish souls give fees at the beginning, as well as at the end of a journey, but most people are inclined to wait until the journey is over. The minimum fee expected from moderately situated people is mod- erate; from the really well-to-do, more might very properly be expected. In train travel, whether one practises it in Pullman cars and sleepers or in the wagon lits of Europe, the porter who brushes one by day and attends to one’s bags and makes up the berth at night should be paid according to the amount and length of his services. Ten cents is enough for one brushing. An all-day trip with several bags to be moved about would be _ twenty-five. Making up the berth for a night trip, fifty. If a trip lasted several days, the tip would be a lump sum covering the whole service; say, from two to five dollars. The table waiter gets about ten per cent. of each bill; or, if one can keep the same waiter, a lump sum at the journey’s end. It is well, if making any extra demands, to fee the man in charge of the dining-car. Miss L. J.: I will be very grateful for advice as to what I should plan for a wardrobe for a stay of six months in Honolulu. Ans.: The climate of Honolulu is moderately warm, with little variation, so all kinds of sports prevail the year round, and sports clothes will do for almost every daytime occasion. Crépe de Chine and balbriggan or jersey may fashion the sports type of frock. Un- doubtedly, a top-coat of tweed, perhaps, or some warm woollen fabric will find numerous uses. Velveteen coats come in lovely shades and can be used when a light-weight wrap is needed, and bath- ing things must be included. A linen riding-habit is comfortably correct and cool. Afternoon dresses of georgette crépes in vivid shades may be used for formal afternoons and informal eve- nings. A white woollen shawl with gay coloured wool flowers is a charming accessory, but the transparent chiffon capes that match the dress are also very lovely and quite warm enough for the balmy evenings in Honolulu. For active sports wear, one needs white buckskin shoes or the combination of white and tan or white and black to harmonize with the costume. For more elaborate frocks, suéde shoes, in beige or a shade to match the frock, are good. One or two pairs of evening slippers will be enough, if they are bought to harmonize with all of the evening dresses. Sports hats of felt can be used on shipboard and in Honolulu, but lovely panama and fine straw hats may be bought after the arrival. One or two large shapes can be used with afternoon dresses. On shipboard, one needs sports things for the daytime and dinner-dresses for evening. The heavy tweed top-coat will be usable on the first few days out. Mrs, W. H.: If the hostess is a young married woman and her guest of honour is an elderly woman, which person should be served first, the hostess or the elderly guest ? Ans.: We think it would be more gracious to serve the elderly woman before the hostess. In fact, a frequent custom at present is for the hostess to be served after the women guests, just before the men. In many kouses, the hostess is served first because, origi« nally, this custom was considered proof positive that all food was safe for guests to eat, and, to-day, it gives the mistress of the house the opportunity of testing her cook’s performances and correcting any mistakes made by her servants in serving. It is, however, a custom which surprises: foreigners and is better not followed when a distin- guished guest is present. In any couns try where there are differences in rank, the person bearing the highest title should be served first. Miss B. B.: Will you please advise me as to how the groom, the best man, the ushers, and the groom’s father should dress for a four-o’clock home wedding ? The guests are to number four hundred. Will you suggest suitable gifts for the groom to give his ushers? Ans.: The kind of clothes to be worn by the groom at a formal wedding would be the same either morning or afternoon. These consist of a_ black morning coat (a cutaway), a_ black waistcoat, dark grey-striped trousers, a white linen shirt, a grey cravat or Ascot or a black and white or grey and white bow tie, black silk socks, patent leather shoes, with or without spats, grey gloves, and a top-hat. The best man, the ushers, and the groom's father might be dressed about as the groom is or might vary the colour of cravat, gloves, and spats. The bouton- niéres of the groom and best man are always white, and the groom’s “button- hole” is sometimes made of the same flowers as those of the bride’s bouquet. While these suggestions are conserva- tively correct, greater liberties may be taken. The ushers, for instance, might wear light coloured shirts (with, of course, white collars) and boutonni‘res of coloured flowers to match—pale pink carnations, pale yellow carnations, or blue cornflowers. The groom, 100, might make changes, such as a grey or buff linen double-breasted waistcoat and a plum coloured and white-striped puff tie. For an informal wedding, the groom might wear a short black coat with his grey-striped trousers and a bowler hat. If the wedding were an out-of-door one, in the heat of sum- mer, he might wear white flannel trou- sers with a short black or dark ‘ue coat; and, of course, whatever fasiiion of clothes the groom wore would be more or less followed by his best :nan and ushers. The groom who wishes to give some remembrance to his best man and ushers might give something like cigarette-cases, cigar-holders, poc«et- books, scarf-pins, cuff-links, or cven walking-sticks or umbrellas Se]

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IGUE NTS z slippers nought to evening n be used lulu, but hats may One or ised with oard, cne ytime and “he heavy le on the Sa young guest of n, which first, the be more y woman frequent 10stess to ests, just uses, the Se, Origis red proof safe for gives the portunity mces and e by her ywever, a mers and a distin- ny couns ; in rank, lest title se advise yest man, s father ck home nber four suitable » ushers? s to be wedding rning or a_ black a_ black trousers, ravat or prey and Ss, patent it spats, Che best groom’s t as the olour of bouton- man are “buttons he same bouquet. onserva- may be e, might vith, of onnicres ale pink ions, or m, 100, a grey raistcoat -striped ling, the ick coat and a vere an yf sum- el trou rk | lue fashion ould be est :nan ishes to est man ing like pocxet- yr even September 15, 1925 PLEVI LLE ~PARIS L* A Re De (Flame of Glory) de Glatt strikes a new note in keeping with the spirit of the times Allegro con amato! That's the tempo of the new vogue in perfumes — and how truly does Monsieur Pleville’s brilliant new odeur interpret this happy spirit of youth! Joyous, piquant, exotic, Flamme de Gloire has a subtle appeal for those who want their perfume as modish as their gowns ; for those who would lead Dame Fashion rather than trail her; for those who instinctively shun the common- place in everything. Send for a sample, Madame — Mademoiselle, so you may judge for yourself whether or no this alluring new odeur is for you. Flamme de Gloire is now available at the better stores of America in original containers of various sizes, sealed in Paris. Also the same fragrance of distinction 1s found in Flamme de Gloire Poudre, Eau de Toilette, Compacte, Brillantine, Lip Stick and Eyebrow Pencil. A small sample of Parfum Flamme de Gloire, enough to acquaint you with this sym- phony of fragrance, will glad- ly be sent if you will write Frederick Stearns & Com- . pany, Detroit, Sole Importers TRAOMP HSE

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The Magic Touch of Startex Makes Glass and China Gleam! SATISFACTORY towel should absorb water or moisture as a blotter does ink. No lint, fluff or moisture is left on glass or china when dried with Startex toweling .... instantly they are thoroughly dry and gleaming. What a handy “round- the-house” towel for hardy usage! quickiy. STA CRASH By a scicntific process, flax and cotton fibres are spun together and then woven into the fabric both ways. This gives Startex its many virtues. It has the strength and softness of linen, is highly absor- bent and the heavy texture pre- vents it from wetting through And in addition, the combination of flax and cotton makes Startex more economical to the buyer. Look for the name on the selvage—Startex makes dish drying easier and pleasanter. ARwee Has linen spur’ and woven both ways STARK MILLS, Sanam Div., LOCKWOOD, GREENE & CO., aaieneed Marketed by LAWRENCE & CO.., Selling Agents, Boston, New York and Chicago THE MODE VOGUE Pn Se aN A (Continued from page 168) selves. At all events, the custom of foot binding is clearly on the wane in China and is no longer followed in the most intelligent Chinese families, though it will, of course, be many generations before it is really aban- doned, for changes come but slowlv ite conservative China. The origin ot foot binding, the mak- ing of the “golden lilies’—those fa- mous “golden lilies,” which, as a Chinese saying has it, are “purchased with acask of tears”—, is lost in the mists of Chinese antiquity, but tradition says that it originated among the concub.nes of the last princes of the T’ang dynasty in the tenth century A. D. Undoubtedly, it was originally a symbol of honour, in- dicating that the possesesor of the “golden lilies” was of a rank too high for usefulness and, like certain other lilies, toiled not, neither did she spin. Like other originations of the world of fashion, it was adopted by women of lower rank, until, at the present time, in certain districts, it is practised even by the peasant women w ho toil in the fields, moving about on knees protected by wadded pads, a height of absurdity which certainly no Western mode could surpass. FEMININE FOOT BINDING The process of binding the feet is be- gun when the child is between three and seven years old, and it is long and painful. It consists of turning the oatiar toes under the feet, while the two large toes are turned up and back over the top of the foot. The result of the binding is to make the foot an ex- tension of the straight line of the leg, thus destroying its balancing power, so that the woman walks—usually sup- ported by a cane, which may be a very decorative accessory—with a peculiar swaying grace that is greatly admired by the masculine world of China and that has many pleasant names, such as “the swaying bamboo,” the “willow walk,” and the “timid mouse” air. The bandages which hold the foot must be worn always and are an im- portant item of the feminine wardrobe. They are especially woven, narrow white bandages, and the woman of fashion changes them with meticulous care every second day, giving the feet the prolonged ministrations that alone enable her to walk at all. Over the bandages are worn stockings made of various materials, not woven in shape in the Western fashion, but sewed up out of the material and lined with cotton or silk. Over these are slipped the tiniest of embroidered slippers, not more than three or four inches long, which the Chinese woman makes for herself, or, if her rank and the length of her finger-nails preclude even that activity, has her handmaidens make for her, shaping them with great care and skill to her feet and turning their tiny, pointed tips up in a dainty curve. In many cases, at present, the feet are not really bound, but the effect of bound feet is attained by wearing the “brodequin de théétre,” a high-soled shoe worn by the men who take wom- en’s parts on the Chinese stage. CHINESE COIFFURES The feminine coiffure in China varies with the rank and the district, but the hair that is the foundation of it is almost invariably black and straight. The women of the court always wore some sort of head-dress, usually of the types previously described as worn by the imperial princess, but, among wom. en of less exalted rank, the hair is not covered, but is merely ornamented with gems or artificial flowers, which are as much in favour in China as in Japan, Young girls wear the hair loose on the shoulders, but, on the wedding-day, the front hair is shaved, and the rest of ihe hair is drawn into a knot low at the back of the head and fastened up with a sliver p:n tully a foot—and not a Chinese foot—long, which may fairly be considered as corresponding to the wedding-ring in the West. Hair-orna- ments of various kinds are usual gifts to the bride. Often, the hair is parted in the middle, and there is, sometimes, a tiny fringe just at the parting. Very modern Chinese women ofien do not shave the front hair, but wear a very large pompadour done over a soft roll, making a striking frame for the face, The typical masculine coiffure of China was, of course, the queue, which has now been snipped off as relentlessly as Peter the Great snipped the long sleeves of his court. In the beg:nning, it was a mark of subjugation imposed by the Manchus when they conquered the Ming rulers many centuries ago. Dut China, with its immemorial habit of absorbing its conquerors, gradually be- came one with the Manchus, and the queue attained honour, until it was banished from Chinese heads by the edicts of the present Chinese Republic, comparatively few years-ago. The jewels of the Chinese mode are of rare splendour, a fact which makes the Japanese woman’s scorn of them the more incomprehensible. Pearls are very greatly prized, as was seen in the costume of the late Dowager Empress described earlier in the article, and they are strung, as a rule, on silk, with from six to a dozen seed-pearls between each two of the large pearls—a method that gives unusual flexibility to the necklaces. Rosaries of a hundred and four pearls, which are mentioned in Marco Polo’s accounts of his visit to the court of Kublai Khan, in Pekin, four centuries and more ago, are still in use among the women of China to- day. The Chinese bride wears a fringe of pearls covering her face under her veil, which is red or green, for white is the colour of mourning in China. MAKE-UP AND ACCESSORIES “In China,” says a noted authority on precious stones, “such precious stones as the ruby, the sapphire—both blue and yellow—, the emerald, and the pink tourmaline, are not faceted, as with us, but are generally polished in con- formity with the shape of the bead or other ornament, and never have a lathe- turned or cut appearance; they are either set in cabochon or as _ beads, reunded, oval, or elongated. All these forms and the colours used by the Chinese lend themselves well to com- binations with pearls; and, hence, pearls are often found in Chinese jew- ellery, especially in those ornaments that are flexible and graceful, in which the pearls and gems are strung on wire and allowed to sw.ng freely with a gentle tinkle when the wearer moves. This is not unlike the setting of such gems in-ancient Roman times, In a head-dtess of a Manchu lady, there are, combiried’ with’ pearls, jadeite, ame- thyst,.amber, and coral, on a gilt silver openwork ground with b.ue kingfisher feathers. The pendant strings of pearls are occasionally relieved by a_ bit of carved jade, carnelian, or coral. We are also told that young ladies in China wear a sort of crown (Continued on page 188)

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IGUE NA ng wom. air is not nted with ch are as in Japan, se on the -day, the est of ihe Ww at the | up with 1d not a ay fairly ig to the air-orna- sual gifts is parted metimes, ig. Very 1 do not ra very soft roll, the face, of China hich has lessly as g sleeves Zz, it was d by the red the go. Dut habit of 1ally be- and the it was by the ‘epublic, 10de are h makes of them arls are n in the Empress ind they ith from 2en each method to the red and oned in Visit to | Pekin, are still lina to- a fringe der her white is na. S uthority precious e—both and the as with in con- bead or a lathe- hey are beads, ll these by the fo com- hence, se jew- laments 1 which on wire with a moves. of such In a ere are, » ame- It silver igfisher f pearls a bit coral. ladies crown September 15, 1925 The Last Chic Touch A mere tiny drop or two of Par- fum Djer-Kiss and your toilette complete becomes sparkling, exotic, French, alluring! With this odeur Kerkoff has scented his many specialties so that all your toilet accessories may echo its Parisian charm.

“<< PARFUM

THE NEW VOGUE: as you would a Compact N smart gatherings everywhere, women have been asking: ‘‘ Why doesn’t someone contrive a really neat, convenient way to carry /oose face powder in the hand bag?” Kerkoff now offers you, in his charming Djer-Kiss Rouge-&-Loose Powder Vanity, a perfectly safe way to carry loose powder. This vanity is fitted with ‘powder pockets’’ (an exclusive Djer-Kiss feature). Each time you open the case, these pockets release just enough powder on the puff. There is a dainty compact of Djer- Kiss Rouge, too, and a convenient

double-faced mirror—detail mirror on one side, reducing mirroron the other. Yet, complete as it is, this new vanity is petite enough to tuck easily into your small purse or bag. It is exquisitely fashioned of nickel-silver, its cover artistically embossed. You will find the Djer-Kiss Rouge- &-Loose-PowderVanity atthoseshops which carry always the newest aids to beauty. When you purchase it, buy also a box of Dijer-Kiss Face Powder as the refill for the powder compartment. Rouge refills, too, are obtainable in the fashionable shades.

Kerkoff= Paris FACE POWDER TALC CREAMS ROUGE LIP ROUGE TOILET WATER PARFUMEUR VEGETALE SACHET SOAP BRILLIANTINE BATH CRYSTALS

187

Nes akin The Dijer-Kiss Rouge-&-Loose-Powder Vanity Carry LOOSE Face Powder as neatly, as safely,

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188 NY; When you reply to a letter of invitation, our friends will admire your taste if your station- 4 poe is correct, smart, new. Autocrat is irreproach- ably correct, but allows you an enchanting variety of size and shape of envelopes, the smartest colored borders, deckle’edges and linings to express your personality. It is so easy to have the “right” stationery. Just be sure it is AurocraT. Then your writing paper will be admired everywhere. Send 10c today for a fascinating week-end port- folio containing a variety of usable sheets and envelopes and our “Guide to Correct Stationery”. White and Wyckoff Mfg. Co., Master Makers of Distinctive Social Stationery, Dept. B3, Holyoke, Mass. WHITE & WYCKOFFS AUTOCRAT STATIONERY Chhe Distinctive Q) Writing Paper ‘Jib renedebsve> Visieweeciss DEMAND FOR “THE FINER DE PyUN 2 Ld N PARIS ="A "SERVICE 3 O AMERICANS IN THE 335) 8 108 8 (OE ©) 5k ©) 18 0) SO) Bia 438 °O 0) :s “PERSONAL *USE op SPAUL | “4 J” SI i PR SD 2 } aw) Br SQN & % PIMP IWe WHAT THEY VOGUE R EA D (Continued from page 174) “QUO VADIMUS?”, subtitled “SoME GLIMPSES OF THE FUTURE,” by E. E. Fournier d’Albe (Dutton), is the latest comer to the TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW series that sets out the opinions: of various scientists and philosophers on various human problems. ‘The present one, attempting to answer the question that forms its title, indulges in some interesting, albeit highly imaginative, prognostications anent the human status a hundred years hence; and then, boldly daring, it indulges in musings as to the possibilities a thou- sand and even a million years from now. After expressing certain misgiv- ings lest an atrophy of the “élan vital” THE MODE should result in universal race suicide, the author declares his conviction that there is really little danger of such eventuality and paints conditions for the people of the future in fairly glowing colours. Not the least lure of the future state is the fact that, thanks to the progress of medicine and surgery, there will be eternal youth and health. Surely, that would be Utopia indeed! All prophecies are interesting. This one recommends itself, if not en- tirely to one’s credulity, at least to one’s interested attention. Too, it sets one to wondering vastly about the future. IN CHINA (Continued from page 186) constructed of pasteboard covered with silk. This is adorned with pearls, diamonds, and other jewels.” The use of make-up in China begins at almost as early an age as foot bind- ing and reaches a high degree of skill. The lips and chin are touched with ver- milion, and, often, a sharp line of car- mine is drawn down between the eyes, which are sharply accented. Large, shaped patches of taffeta are worn at the temples, and, often, these are elabo- rated with long, curving antennae. The accessories of the mode include fans, which are many and elaborate and are usually of the hand-screen type, made of flat feathers and mounted on lacquer sticks and duly equipped vanity-cases, which hang by silk cords. They also include very long, slim pipes with tiny bowls and satin pouches to hold the mixture of tobacco and opium A § S EEN that beguiles the endless leisure hours of the women whose exalted rank per- mits them no manner of occupation. Chinese nails, of course, are as fa- mous as Chinese feet, and, like the bound feet, they are a symbol of the rank and consequent idleness of the woman who wears them, though many Chinese women contrive to do marvel- lous embroidery in spite of them. On the left hand, especially, the nails are allowed to grow immensely long, so long that often they are protected by a case of bamboo or of gold or silver, and they are shaped to a point that gives an effect of excessively slim and tapering fingers, a fashion that has undoubt- edly had a marked influence on the hands of the Western world, though, most fortunately, it has never been car- ried to extremes comparable to those in China. a H I M (Continued from page 170) at Newport. This one belongs to the Edson Bradleys and is one of the finest houses in America, since it con- tains a wonderfully fine collection of old wood carvings, stone carvings, grills, figures and medallions, price- less ceilings, and boiserie that Mr. Bradley has collected during the last forty years. To incorporate these things in a really beautiful house has been an architectural “stunt” which, however, has in no way spoiled the building as a superb example of late French Gothic. There is a magnificent entrance-hall with beau- tiful stained-glass windows giving on to an enormous library at one end, and, at the other, through a series of arched corridors, are the stair-well, dressing-rooms, and the approach to a series of galleries, built to house the various works of art. Through these, one passes to the state dining-room and the ballroom beyond. The house is called “Sea View Terrace,” and it is well named, for, through the vistas be- tween the superb trees, some of the finest in Newport, one sees the sea breaking on the rocks at the bottom of the garden. Due to the fact that a house of this size is not finished easily nor quickly gotten into shape, the Bradleys were not able to open it for entertaining this year, but the ball they will give there next season will be one of the greatest entertainments Newport has ever seen, and the general curiosity over the interior of the house, which scarcely any one has yet seen, will at last be satisfied. There will be no dis- appointment, for it is the last word in what a great house can be. “HIM” as. aL ae we nme 2

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GUE * suicide, ion that of such ions for . fairly ire state orogress will be ly, that xy. This ot en- east to Too, it out the VA hours 1k per- tion. as fa- ke the of the of the many larvel- n. On ils are ng, so 1 by a r, and ves an pering loubt- n the 10ugh, n car- those M these, -room use is it is as be- f the e sea om of hat a easily , the it for | they e one wport iosity vhich ill at . dis- rd in M” September 15, 1925 189 Tat bla, Rect Jou ar tarp, Fat Goraslics filets a Yor tating fran, age mW George Horny Vre faba barbs: yap Sp Ii tara Badaleg — SOCIETY’S APPOINTMENT BOOK HE FIRST families of New York... cA few enthustastic users of Men and women distinguished in art, literary and diplomatic circles .... The JANE CURRAN most beautifully groomed women in the HAIR TONICS world.... For 40 years, only the privileged few could Mrs. Payne Whitney enjoy the famous Hair Treatments and Mrs. James A. Burden Tonics of Jane Curran —“ Hair Specialist Mrs. Whitney Warren to Society”. Mrs. Laura Stedman Gould But so extraordinary were the results se- Mrs. Cortlandt F. Bishop cured with the Jane Curran Treatments Mrs. George Harvey and Tonics—so rich, luxuriant and glossy did hair become with their use—that de- Marquisa de Pia del Rio mands for them became far too numerous Mrs. Elihu Root, Jr. for Jane Curran’s personal attention. Mrs. H. H. Rogers Accordingly, a little more than a year ago, Mrs. John E. Berwind Jane Curran was persuaded not only to Mrs. Gifford Pinchot make her Tonics available to all—but to a er a evolve a home treatment which any woman might follow. Within the past year, society women from coast to coast—in every metropolitan center—have found unfailing this unusual hair care, which once was the possession of the New York society woman alone. Lf Mrs. Robert De Forest Ce SEEKS the secret for the singular success of Jane Curran Hair Treat- ments and Tonics. It is this: Instead of offering one magic Tonic for every hair evil, Jane Curran offers a specific Hair Treatment and Tonic for each individual condition. As if the same Tonic could re- lieve too-oily and too-dry hair! There is one Jane Curran Tonic for Dan- druff, another for Falling Hair and Dry Scalp, a third for Excessive Oil, a fourth for Fading and Graying hair. A Shampoo, a Pomade, and a Powder are also included among her preparations. With the proper Tonic for your individual need, and the Jane Curran Home Treat- ment Book—which will be sent you on request—the gleaming lustrous, “well- cared-for” hair of the New York society woman is within the reach ofall. One may procure the Jane Curran preparations in leading department stores, drug stores, or beauty shops. If you wish individual advice, Jane Curran willanswer any questions con- cerning your particular hair condition. JANE CURRAN HAIR. TONICS JANE E. CURRAN, INC., 130 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK

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og a Fe MET NTS segs REET PTET SON 190 ‘a Daventree Sport Silk a Made into SPORTWEAR by ‘W¥-H-DAVIDOW-SONS-C2 550 Seventh Avenue New York, AND BOLD. AT THE SETTER SHOPS Secuccucccuccecccnuscncsescesceceucceccnencnsccaceccs-snseesssscuacse The Mystery 6) f Flowers Mysti PARKUM To heighten the elusive charm of woman, twenty-eight dif- ferent flowers give their subtle fragrance to the creation of Mystikum + Europes Premier Perfume. At the Better Stores "Facluarte Neth Anarcen Agel 56 WEST 45th ST. NEW YORK CANADA 170 M‘GILL ST MONTREAL ON WOOING THE VOGUE MUSES By VIRGIL THOMSON the* English, that we bear an “un- requited love for music.” “We spend more’ money on it and partici- pate less in its delights than does any other civilized nation. Our in- veterate timidity’in self-expression has led us to consider music not as a necessary human function, but as a recondite activity which only the “sifted” can legitimately practise, al- though its “appreciation” may well constitute an ornament of the culti- vated mind. Indeed, as a professor at Harvard once remarked, “almost the only place where spontaneous musical exercise finds free play in this country is in the bathtub.” As a matter of fact, American chil- dren are highly musical. Every teacher knows that. And if our grown- ups are not, it is because something has happened in their education to re- press a fundamental impulse. This something is not neglect. We torture our young people with all manner of instruction in music, the usual result being a complete distaste for it and an inability to render in tune or time the simplest popular piece. Very young children are forever singing. They will sing, if they-can, the tunes they hear, or else contrive. their’ own. ‘hey will even try to play the piano, unless care- fully watched. Such indiscriminate noise mak ng is usually forbidden with a promise of later lessons; and Johnnie is early led to infer that singing, also, at least improvisational singing or the singing of anything at all in a loud voice, is something that simply is not done at his age. At school, singing be- comes a painful reading by note of dull tunes arrayed in a book-factory, and the death-blow to musical interest is administered at home in the form of the promised, but now compulsory, piano lessons. Sometimes repressed musical des:res burst out in later adolescence; but se:f-consc:ousness is then too strong to allow singing prac- tice, and since the time has gone by when instrumental training would be easy to acquire, Johnnie is bound for life in the chair of the listener. With all the cultivation in hearing thot he can muster up, his actual performing powers seldom extend beyond the gramophone and the ukelele. iE well be said of us, as of MUSIC AND THE CHILD Now the manipulation of either of these instruments offers no very great aesthetic experience, whatever their practical and sentimental utilities; and the opera and the concert hall offer, indeed, little more. The hearing of music bears the same relation to actual participation in it that going to church bears to the practise of religion. A love of it is inseparable from the desire to commit a mus‘cal act. And since children are forever attempting such acts, the problem of education is to ene courage and direct these spontaneities by providing a genuinely musical exer- cise of them. There is only one sensible plan to follow in any training of young chil- dren; namely, to reproduce the history of the race. They must talk before they can write; they must walk before they can drive an automobile; they must sing before they can play an instrument. The only proper music for very young children is, consequently, vocal music of a simple, rhythmic character. To beat a plain rhythm and to sing a plain tune is to make good music, and such is the only music that little children can make, Folk-songs, the music which the .race made for itself in its infancy, are admirably suited to this purpose. Modern pieces, even, when written especially for children, are al- most always vocally difficult and emo-+ tionally inappropriate. In music. as in poetry and story, the best works for children are those anc:ent expressions of the race which were never intended for children at all, but which, like Mother Goose and the fairy-tales, have remained as a part of the imaginative experience of childhood. . Teach children, then, to carry a beat and a tune, and do not pervert their taste by a too early introduction to the ornaments of harmony and _insiru- mental accompaniment. Let them sing without any other noise than that which they can make themselves by clapping hands or by patting feet. While they sing, let them Carce or march, or play games. When they are able to carry a part, teach them rounds and canons, but never give them caord-music, that habit-forming drug which has done more to destroy taste than any single agent except the pianoforte. SINGING—-THE NATURAL EXPRESSION After they have been singing beauti- ful songs for several years, they may be introduced to musical notation. Not, however, as a difficulty ought notes to be approacl.ed, as a puzzle to be solved, or as a Cuty, but as a secret closet where jam is hiding. Notes are only symbols. To decipher them is not a musical act. Children should be taught not so much to reproduce their values as to find the music which they conceal. Exercises manufactured to teach sight-reading have no value whatever. The tunes children read, however simple, must be real tunes. If you want your child to play an instrument, do not give h:m lessons until he can sing and until he has a pretty high degree of muscular co- ordination. And even then, do not start with notes on paper; start with music. Let him find a little tune for himself before he begins to struggle with lines and spaces. Then if he is interested in his music making, see that he practises it regularly, however little. If he is not, take the means of it away from him. The choice of an instrument is a difficult matter For children of musi- cal “ear,” a stringed instrument is, perhaps, the best. For children with good sense of rhythm, but fau ty pitch, the pianoforte is safer. Wind instru- ments offer delightful opportunities for the more mature, though they make considerable demands upon family forbearance. In any case, parents need not think that mus:‘c necessarily means piano playing. The pianoforte is an accommodating maid of a!l work who is forced to serve far too many peo- ple. Its homophonic character is not conducive to high musical appreciation. As a piece of furn.ture, it is cumber- some and ugly; as a means of expres- sion, it is greatly overestimated. Whatever the instrument, one should see that the pieces played upcn it bear some relation to the history of musical style. At first, s.mple tunes without accompaniment will identify ins.ru- mental with vocal procedures. Later, accompanied melodies may lead to the polyphonic pieces of the seventeenth century and of J. S. Bach. Thematic music, .onatinas of Mozart and Beetho- ven, may follow. The romantic music of the nineteenth century is often ap- pealing to adolescents, but they will (Continued on page 194)

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September 15, 1925 Cf bi 4LERnR aud Paris 1h7> oa

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192 cA New Art: of Corsetry O WOMAN is smarter than her corset and no corset is smarter than Redfern, as is amply demonstrated by this marvelously designed Wrap-around* which bears the style number N /337. It possesses the supreme virtue (so rare in ordinary corsets) of never pushing up on the fig- ure, being securely anchored in place by the two exclusive Redfern features, the special design of the back and the diagonal thigh band. Note also the fashionably loose waistline which corrects diaphragm bulge. * Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 5 KK NiA37, $7.5 her Redfin, $3.50 up “err Send for booklet, Department D, The Warner Brothers Company, 347 Madison Ave., New York City; 367 West Adams St., Chicago; 28 Geary St., San Francisco. ( PEE 2] i — f ews the MP. cypr Tall! | ee DELMAN SHOE SALON 558 Madison Avenue Bet, 55nd 56% New \ork_ VOGUE yl merce | WWW One sees, from this old print, that there was a great display of delicate silk stockings dur- ing the Directoire period EARLY HISTORY OF SILKEN HOSE NE finds mention of women’s hose as. early as the fourteenth century. In his Canterbury Tales, Chaucer tells of the Wife of Bath: “Hire hosen weren of fine skarlet redde Full and straite y-teyed.” Silk stockings appeared early in the sixteenth century in England and were worn by every one who could afford them. A pair of long Spanish silk hose at that period was considered a gift worthy of a king. “In the third year of the reign of Elizabeth,” we are told by an old chronicler, “‘Mistress Montague, the queen’s silk woman, presented to her Majesty a pair of silk knit stockings, which pleased her so well that she would never wear cloth hose afterwards.” What the Queen approved of the court ladies desired, and, soon, every English gentlewoman became the possessor of at least one pair of silk stockings. “Their stock- ings,” so said the chronicler, “are either of silk or, at least, of as fine yarn thread or cloth as is possible to be had; yea, they are not ashamed to wear hose of all kinds of changeable colours, as green, red, white, russet, tawny, and else what not. Their deli- cate hosen must be cunningly knit and curiously indented in every point with quirks, clocks, open seams, and every- thing else accordingly.” In 1564, William Rider, apprentice to Thomas Burdett, seeing a pair of worsted stockings at an Italian mer- chant’s, which had been imported from Italy, borrowed them and made a pair like them which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke. This was the first pair of stockings known to be knit in England. A few years later saw the appearance of the stocking-frame. Planche, the great authority on cos- tume, tells the romantic story of this invention in his famous dictionary. One William Lee, Master of Arts and Fellow of St. John’s, Cambridge, had fallen in love with a girl who earned her living by knitting stockings. She discouraged his suit, and, to revenge himself, he constructed a frame with which he knitted with skill and dis- patch. The English knitters every- where became alarmed and used every means in their power to bring his in- vention into disrepute. Apparently, they succeeded, for he left England and settled in France, where he was at first patronized by the fashionable and great, but the murder of Henri IV. and the subsequent economic depres- sion brought him to ruin. He died in Paris a few months later of a broken heart, it was said. Marie de Medici delighted in silk stockings, which she had imported from Italy and Spain. She favoured (Continued on page 194) WOON (Left) A lady arranges her gar- ter, @ gay acces- sory in the early days of _ the vogue for silken hose UMMM: Se

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IGUE September 15, 1925 OSE »prentice pair of an mer- ted from le a pair 1 to the the first knit in saw the g-frame. on cos- of this ‘tionary. irts and lige, had earned s. She revenge 1e with nd dis- every- d every his in- arently, ngland was at le and iri IV. Jepres- died in broken in silk ported voured THE ROMANCE AND BEAUTY OF COLONIAL, OUR NATIONAL STYLE Ls in the New GOVERNOR DUMMER Solid Silver | When calling for it At Your Jeweler’s, ask for a copy of « ELEGANCE,” ns | which tells the story of this Sterling pattern; or, you can first get this interesting ni lla, little monthly, devoted to al] that appertains to the table, by writing pd a THE WATSON COMPANY, Silversmiths, ATTLEBORO, MASS. ken F w 4 NEW YORK CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO

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194 PAUL JONES NURSE COSTUMES | For the nurse who would preserve in her uniform the same individuality and smartness of ap- pearance which distinguish her in street costume, Write for interesting Style Booklet and name of nearby Paul Jones dealer MORRIS & CO., Inc. Baltimore, Maryland ak NY LENG a) veri VA a ‘‘Directoire Corset Brassiere’’ BRASSIERES G. M. POIX, Inc., 98 Seventh Ave., Gentiemen: Kindly send me your FREE Style Booklet. Loveliness of Milady.”’ BRASSIERE DIRECTOIRE No. 982—This unusual “Directoire Corset Bras- siere” is made in durable pink coutil with fancy satin stripe. At the top the bust is made of Rayon Silk Jersey which gently moulds the figure, giving support and comfort to the wearer. Thediaphragm is well taken care of- by our patented re-enforced section. Four elasticinserts over hips and small back section of elastic, allow perfect freedom. It is side- front opening, has six gar- ters and elastic shoulder straps. The perfect fitting qualities along with the moulding of the figure have been fully taken care of in this model, which truly makes it unusual. Under No. 990 it can be obtained in plain heavy silk satin. THE Ni W one of the famous A. P. Send today for cur Free Style Pooklet Brooklyn, N. Y. | l tne | | | ON WOOING VOGUE THE MUSES (Continued from page 190) find it for themselves; and the grand- eurs of the fugue and the classical sonata, as well as the delights of mod- ern experimentation, may also be left to the discovery of later years. If musical endeavour is to be estab- lished as an habitual function, it is necessary to provide both the means of expression and the occasion. It does no good to practise unless one plays. The traditional pupils’ recital meets this necessity in a way that is nerve- racking to most children and trying upon the auditors. Moreover, the psychology of assertion and display in- volved is of questionable benefit to character. A better solution is the performance in the family circle of duets, trios, and other forms of con- certed music. These offer far better education than any solo pieces, be- cause they require team-work, and be- cause music played by several per- formers is more impersonal and better art than solo music ever can be. Indeed, no activity which human beings perform is so beneficial to the mind, the nerves, and the soul as the performance of concerted music. Philosophers, teachers, and physicians have always known this; and although the whoe explanation of its value is not easy to formulate, it is quite clear that the voluntary submission to disci- piine, the subordination of one’s part to the whole, and the responsibility assumed by each player for the com- pleteness of that effect are experiences which can not fail to assist the inte- grating processes of character devel- opment. Plato said that the performance and even, in some measure, the hearing of music tend to reproduce unconsciously in the minds of both player and listener the qualities of harmony, provor: on, and restraint which the music itself EARLY HISTORY exemplifies. But if training in musical performance can be used to beautify and to strengthen emotional life and character, it can also be used to de- grade tiem; for there can b2 no cou ¢ that music, the most powerful emotion- ally of all the arts, can encourage both healthy and unhealthy sentiments. It is for this reason that very young chil- dren should sing folk music, which is the most universal in character, the least personal, of all music. and that the words they sing to it should deal with matters appropriate to their ex- perience. Likewise, for children play- ing an instrument, the music of an ancient day offers a more healthy, a more objective study than most music written in the last hundred years. The melodramatic and the erotic shoud be avoided whenever parents or teachers can discriminate them. Not that it is necessary to guide children’s tastes in any censorious way, If sufficient opportunity is offered, they will probably find appropriate music for themselves. They may even take a fancy to pieces which a cultivated taste would find trivial or vulgar. But here the same discretion must be ex- ercised that is necessary in regard to their diet. By whatever means of authority or diplomacy that paren‘s find most effective, children must be taught to enjoy the eating of healthful foods at cus‘omary hours. Indeed, if parents will remember that mind and character grow just like muscle, through regular and _ proper nourishment, and that pleasure in the satisfaction of an appetite is necessary to any good digestion, the tremendous musical craving of America, which finds now so crude ond pltrv a grati- fication through hired performers, may some day be able to express itself in normal exercise. OF SILKEN HOSE (Continued from page 192) purple, red, and orange colour deco- rated with the French lilies or the Medici crest. Anne of Austria liked black stockings knitted around the tops with gold thread. These stockings came from Spain and were made by a master craftsman who worked exclu- sively for her. For qual.ty and ex- quisite design, these exceeded all others. For a long period, the Spanish knitters excelled those of other coun- tries in Europe, but, at length, the French became the mas‘ers, and, dur- ing the reign of Louis XV., French stockings were in great demand in all the courts. During the Reign of Terror, silk stockings were taboo, but, with its pass- ing, the Frenchwoman, who had been forced to dress very sober.y, revelled in silk stockings again. The new classical style of the Directoire displayed the ankle as it had never been displayed before in France. Shoes were: worn low and apple-green in colour, stock- ings were of white or flesh coloured silk with embroidered coloured satin clocks, pink or lilac. Scanty clothing was the -vogue, and it became an amusement in society to weigh all the garments of a lady’s costume, includ- ing shoes, stockings, and ornaments. Everything, Fashion decreed, was not allowed to weigh over eight ounces. Unfortunately, and as a consequence of the classical style, influenza made its appearance in Paris, and nearly every one in society fell a victim to it, but, as Madame de Girardin said, “‘And yet the balls went on—in the evening, one finds them at some ball, looking radi- ant, head up in the air, feathered and bejewelled, the shoulders nude, arms nude, and feet nude, for one could not call the spider-web stockings a cov- ering.” During the reign of Louis Philippe, stockings were of many curious col- ours, which were given the most fan- tastic names. When crinoline came in, stockings suffered something of an eclipse. The old-fashioned shoe was discarded for the high-laced boot, which was more ine’egant, though hardly more so than the rest of the costume. As the boots were black and the stockings, as a rule, white, the ugliness was given the finish- ing touch. The Empress Eugénie and the ladies who surrounded ier bouzht extravagantly of stockings, buying pairs of them to harmonize with every gown and, always, of the most ex- quisite textures. Outside of the im- mediate court circle of the Second Em- pire, American ladies in Paris had the reputation for buying the most cx- pensive stockings displayed in the shops. In a book of memoirs of the period, the story is told of an American woman who was asked by a certain thrifty Marquise why she bought such costly silk stockings, during that p2r- ticular mode. “With the present fash- ion in skirts, no one would know whether you wear cotton or silk.” “Dut chére Madame, I would know!” was the instant reply. S. S. ||

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GUE »ES musical beautify life and 1 to de- 10 CnNU ¢t emotion- age both ents. It ing chil- which is cter, the and that uld deal their ex- en play- c of an salthy, a st music rs. The shoud teachers to guide ous way, red, they te music ven take ultivated far. But t be ex- egard to leans of paren’‘s must be healthful aber that ust like | proper e in the lecessary nendous . which a grati- ers, may itself in ISE ing, one ig radi- red and e, arms yuld not a cov hilippe, us col- st fans ockings e. The ded for S more so than e boots ; a rule, » finish nie and bouzht buying h every ost eXe he im- id Em- is had 1ost cX- in the of the nerican certain ht such at pare it fash- know diag tT ig wa fal Ss. 5. September 15, 1925 2 — Wuo is she . . this Lady to whom the tribute of silence is paid? One asks Henri and he murmurs a notable name. Such chic! A frock of which all women will dream. . emeralds of matchless hue . . and the rarest and most delightful of perfumes (Jouir), a fascinating new scent from Fioret, Paris. Le plus distingué! I Le Parfum Jouir, Prevert, Le Dernier Roman and other Fioret perfumes and accessoirs are available in America at the more important shops. Fioret, Inc., New York. Le Parrum Jourr. De Luxe Package, $13.50 Others priced from $6.75 up

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196 Y y : - ox Vg . if . BY) eB . A@ ~S | A j G6NiZZ NUD ie) S aT =e Kans Vg tla PO Tiwn 992 All shades 965 Hand-sewn 960 P. K. All shades , KISLAV’ GLOVER” . France — GUARANTEED WASHABLE IN ALL COLORS | A beautiful, soft, perfect-fitting doeskin glove made in 35 styles for ladies, children, men. In novelty cuff effeés, slip-ons, one button, ete. Sold at all smart stores. Remember the name “KISLAV” when you ask to see iin: >. BUSCARLET (Paris) Mfrs. DAVID & BLUM, Inc. 84 Madison Avenue, New York 942 P.K. 973 Hand-sewn All shades FRANKLIN SIMON & CO. Sole Agents in ‘NEW YORK 990 Tailored All shades N 4)7— NYKO Vx ! © A ASW) NY oh ) \\ y BOA . Feonemical ‘dundee Pbofectly Allways Beautiful POINT DE PARIS BINCHE VALS BIRKIN AND COMPANY~ NEW YORK,NY, LY fae OSD) WY NG > =~ D VOGUE Sherril Schell Mystic lore combines with flash and glow in the undying enchantment of rar: and exquisite jewels The MYSTIC CHARM of RARE GEMS HE people of the East have always believed in the mysterious powers of jewels, their poetic fancy and vivid imagination attributing a special virtue to every precious and semiprecious stone. Long ago, these superstitions passed into the countries of the West, where they tenaciously survive, even in this matter-of-fact day. The Spanish woman, for example, dressing for dinner or ball or other important affair, gives a great deal of thought to her jewels, considering them not only for their beauty and becoming- ness, but for their poetic significance and talismanic powers, as well. Per- haps, it is the Moorish strain in her blood that influences her choice of jewellery, the stones of which, she re- calls) may be depended on to exert a much desired spell. When gems are to be bought, she accompanies her hus- band to the shop, and romantic and eerie stories of jewel lore flood her mind. They are certain to sway her decision on what she will buy. SPANISH JEWEL TRADING In imagination, one joins the sefor and sefiora on their expedition to one of those fascinating shops, not far from the Puerta del Sol, where resplen- dent windows dazzle the women of Madrid. Here are diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, pearls, rubies, opals, topazes, amethysts, moonstones—radiant and gleaming miracles of mine and sea brought hither from four corners of the world and strung into necklaces or fastened into tiaras, brooches, brace- lets, and rings of gold and platinum. Shopping in Spain is always a leisurely affair, especially so when it is for jew- ellery, and it very frequently is a matter of an entire afternoon. A charming irrelevancy characterizes the prelimi- naries. There are comments on the weather and the political situation and inquiries as to the health and fortunes of relatives, for this is a land where all business dealings are carried on with a graciousness and formality that give them the air of social functions. The prix fixe has never appealed to the Spanish people; temperamentally they are too much akin to the Oriental to abandon the exciting methods of the bazaar. Bargaining is in their blood and is as much a passion as their beloved corrida. The sefora gives a cry of horror when the proprietor answers her timid query as to the price of the necklace she has fastened around her neck, re- turning it to him indignantly in spite of his protestations that the sum is not exorbitant. After a lengthy interval, it dwindles down to half the amount, but not until the semora has run through her entire emotional gamut from anger to sadness and from sarcasm to coquet- ry. It is a pretty comedy of wits which requires an equal finesse on the part of both actors. Between these skirmishes, from which both may be said to emerge victorious, the conversation drifts to gem lore— to stories of superstition. THE DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE The diamond, it is believed, brings success to the wearer, whom it endows with strength and courage. Among the Romans, it was the emblem of fearless- ness and invincibility. Worn as a brace- let on the left arm, it protected one from all dangers of the night. In the Middle Ages, it was believed that the Devil hated it because it ever baffled his power. “The Evil Eye shall have no power to harm Him that shall wear the diamond as « charm. No monarch shall attempt to thwart his will And e’en the gods his wishes shall fulfill.” The diamond was also supposed to cure many ailments and to keep fami- lies from losing wealth and position. In India, the most valuable diamond of a Maharaja’s collection is believed to protect his life and guard his dynasty; thus, the transference of the celebrated Koh-i-noor to the British crown w-s the cause of great lamentation through- out that country. The diamond has been called “the gem of reconciliation,” as it was thought to increase the love of a husband for his wife. (Continued on page 198) ~ ® —e — bet « JY ™ —e oe —_

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7UE MS blood their horror timid cklace k, re- | spite is not val, it it, but rough anger oquet- which art of which rious, lore— rings idows ig the rless- yrace- 1 one n the it the affled ser to 3 as Cc rt his shall od to fami- ition. nd of -d to asty ; rated Wes ugh- has ion,” love September 15, 1925 Ss 197 NO, hooks - NO eyes NO bones - NG, elastic The Snuggleband with Brassiére Back of the Snuggleband and Brassiére The Snuggleband-Ensemble The Snuggleband Snugg..band Trade Mark HE vogue for tight hips demands a figure control garment, and the Snuggleband-brassiére combination is ideal because it gives figure control with perfect comfort. The Snuggleband-brassiére combination gives you the fashionable unbroken silhouette and fits like a glove no matter what position you are in. Even when you are sitting, it cannot possibly “stand off” from the figure. The Snuggleband itself is made of the best quality satin, Pat. Reg. U. 8. and Canada with no bones or elastic, no lacings, no hooks or eyes—it “wraps” across the back and buttons. The brassiére of firm glove silk buttons on to the Snuggleband in front, back and on either side. In white or flesh. The Snuggleband and brassiére are soft and supple, permit- ting perfect circulation, but they are scientifically designed and cut so that they mold the figure into lines of natural grace. The Snuggleb and-Ensemb!] ec OR the slim, youthful figure, the new Snuggleband- ensemble is ideal—a four-in-one garment taking the place of vest, brassiére, girdle and step-ins. It is made of glove silk and has garters attached—thus combining all the essentials in a single garment. It feels delightfully firm and comfortable and there isn’t even a seam that can pos- sibly show through the closest fitting dress. In flesh, white or black. BROMLEY-SHEPARD, Inc. 92 Paige Street - - ¢ ¢ Lowell, Mass. New York office: 489 Fifth Avenue If your favorite shop cannot supply you, write us direct, giving your bust and low waist measures. Snuggleband $12; brassizre $4; Snuggleband-ensemble $13.50

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ew Art A ge of Corsetry EDFERN designing establishes a new art of corsetry, giving to any iio the narrow hips and flat back of the slimly smart silhouette. A brilliant example of this art is Wrap-Around * N /373, which has the incomparable merit of staying down on the figure no matter what posi- tion the wearer takes. It is, in fact, “anchored” at the largest part of the figure, smoothly swathing the hips and permitting fashionable freedom at the waist. Even large figures find that it not only flattens the back but subdues diaphragm bulge marvelously. *Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. N/373 10.00 xy Other Redferns, $3.50 up &Z Send for booklet, Department D, The Warner Brothers Compa ny, 347 Madison Ave., New York City; 367 ey West Adams St., Chicago; 28 Geary St., San Francisco. . hale of a re ference just a few cents make _lesn VOGUE The MYSTIC CHARM of RARE GEMS (Continued from page 196) The Arabs say that the sapphire worn over the heart will keep one young, free from care, trusting, forgiv- ing, and high souled, that it will banish enmity and seal true affection and act as a charm against sickness. All through the East, it is believed that no one mean or vile can bear the sight of an emerald and that it sparkles bril- liantly in a company that admires and respects the wearer. It, however. sends out its brightest rays set in a woman’s ring when her loved one is near and will break if worn on a faithless hand. It was supposed to have a miraculous origin. The story is that an Indian prince, one night, was watching the twinkling lights of a swarm of fireflies. His attention was attracted by one brighter than the rest, who at length left the others and alighted on the grass, where it remained a long time, illuminating the ground with its spark- Iing. green rays. The prince, astonished by this remarkable spectacle, approached it and discovered that it was not an in- sect, but a wonderful emerald, which he appropriated and afterwards wore as a ring. Emeralds were also supposed to sharpen the wits and enable their wearer to predict the future. In order to achieve the latter, one was obliged to put it under the tongue. Worn on the hand or wrist, it revealed the truth or falsity of lovers’ oaths, turning pale and lifeless if a lie were told. THE RUBY AND OTHERS The ruby was held in the highest esteem by the Hindoos, who were con- vinced that an inextinguishable fire burned within it and that its owner would lead a carefree life, at peace with his fellow men. This gem would prctect his fortune and that of his children. All good things would come to pass if the ruby were worn on his left side. The pearl seems always to have fas- cinated mankind. The Orientals loved it above all other jewels, and the Greeks and Romans were infatuated with it. The Emperor Caligula wore slippers covered over with pearls, and Nero slept in beds richly ornamented with them. In the Middle Ages, the people of Europe had much faith in its occult virtues. A woman who wore a pearl would remain pure in heart, as well as in deed, and in every way would be a comfort to father and husband. It was the emblem of modesty and chas- tity. The Orientals say that once a year the pearl oysters rise from the deep and open their shells on the surface of the sea to receive the rain-drops, which in their embrace become pearls. With this idea in mind, one of their poets relates the following fable: “Long ago, a drop of rain fell from a cloud into the sea. Embarrassed at finding itself in such an immensity of water, it ex- claimed: ‘What am I in comparison with this vast ocean? I am nothing!’ While it was talking, a lovely pearl shell received it in its embrace and transformed it into a magnificent pearl. Thus, humility had its reward.” In Europe, only a few centuries ago, © it was believed that the turquoise pro- tected its wearer against accident, espe- cially a fall, even though it were over the steepest cliff or wall. It was also believed that it acted as a sort of barom- eter to the health of the wearer, grow- ing pale if he were ill and losing co.our entirely if he died. According to the Persians, if one desires good fortune, he must see the reflection of the new moon on the face of a friend, a copy of the Koran, or on a turquoise. The Persians also say that the lapis lazuli is a cure for melancholy and that the moonstone arouses affection for the wearer. The latter, they contend, ke- stows the gift of clairvoyancy, but, in order to benefit by it, one must hold it in the mouth when there is a full moon. In Arabia, the amethyst typified the meeting of two elements, l!fe and death, the spiritual and the earthly. One of their legends says: “Wear it with gentle trust :nd pride upon thy head. *T will fill thy soul with hope and peace, still every unseemly passion, and give thee favour before kings and princes.” SUPERSTITIONS OF THE EAST The bloodstone anciently bore the name of heliotrope or “Sun turner,” from the fancy that if immersed in water it reflected the blood-red image of the sun. The old necromancers called it “The Babylonian Gem” and declared that if rubbed over with the juice of bloodroot it would make the wearer invisible. The Arabs say that if the bloodstone is worn over the heart it will prove a charm against evil tongues and treachery. Throughout the East, amber is worn by children as an amu:et. The Shah of Persia wears a cube of amber around his neck, which legend states fell from heaven in the time of Mahomet. Coral beads are also very popular as amulets in the Orient. The Romans believed that amber would ward off the power of the Evil Eye. It was supposed to defeat witchcraft, counteract poison, and protect the wearer from lightning and robbers. Jade, the sacred stone of the Chinese, is supposed to have mysterious powers, which makes them loath to part with it. A necklace of jade, they believe, around a child’s neck will protect it against disease and ensure a sturdy adolescence. Jade talismans are much worn to-day in all Mohammedan coun- tries as a talisman against injury and annoyance of any kind. In Arabia, a crystal necklace was supposed to ward off nightmare and all unpleasant dreams. A chrysolite worn at night brought happy dreams and protected the wearer against all nocturnal dan- gers. The aquamarine saved one from many ills, including the treachery of foes. The topaz kindled warmth in the coldest heart, and the chrysophrase worn on the left side granted one’s dearest wish. The opal, which has only recently emerged from a cloud of dis- favour, a few centuries ago was thought to comb'ne more virtues than any other gem and was a talisman of the most exalted rank. Ss. S. ) |9 Ae penile, | see pe ere

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\GUE EMS oise pro- ent, espe- vere over was also of barom- er, grow- ng co.our g to the fortune, the new |, a copy ise. The , lazuli is that the for the end, be- , but, in t hold it 111 moon ified the id death, One of it with ny head. id peace, ind give orinces.” ST ore the turner,” ‘rsed in d image rs called declared juice of wearer t if the heart it tongues is worn ie Shah around -11 from t. Coral amulets believed » power osed to poison, ghtning ~hinese, powers, rt with believe, otect it sturdy > much 1 coun- iry and abia, a o ward leasant - night otected il dan- ie from ery of nth in yphrase 1 one’s as only of dis- 0 was ‘s than nan of S.S. September 15, 1925 eee Ce ty . we SER. — i ae f ed ‘berlin tle and, UvdOpPING Which wort the Charm Of legua ary Poroianro ew powder bax WitK difiur ard. wo! puff [pat] *z OWitkout sifier MADOU KA ROA #720 and pug. Dahm, 20 R06 Ofer COONS: . cdmbre Noir Lilas ELE oh Baste COMBI. cox sorte sperm CNiGHItd BICUAI mop CIPO, MAQUues a S NarcKsts Hkylia. CAL KAGING SOKA weecian. MA DOU K Fours YY OO RB KK:

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200

A. Colored Uniforms —to match home settings The colored uniform has come to be the smart and correct serv- ing outfit. It permits a note of individuality, a harmony in the color plan, which the hostess may change from time to time. No. 371—a smartly tailored model of Silk and Cotton Poplin. Detach- able collar and cuffs of White Per- manent Finish organdie. In Bayleaf Green, French Purple, French Grey and five equally popular colors. OE) $12.75 No. 168—Apron, Collar and Cuffs ft) ae ere oor em: $2.50 HENRY A. DIX & SONS CORPORATION 141 MADISON AVE. NEW YORK Bix-fA 2lniforms for Women FOR, THE WOMAN 4@

Poor and helpless is the babe over whom the Goddess of Drama waves her palm of future glory, for she can not escape her dire destiny THE WOMAN amt iat By CECILE SOREL HE woman artist—who can help us to understand her? The one who combines in her personality the essential characteristics of her race and epoch, whose native land looks to her as its worthy representative on foreign shores, she, perhaps, will lead us to a better understanding. The public, always too prone to concen- trate on results, seldom realizes the hard work and tremendous energy needed to bring about success. This is all for the best, since the analysis of pleasure often causes it to vanish entirely; the true enjoyment of a warm, beautiful piece of sculpture lies in fore getting the cold block of stone from which it came. To those who exhibit indifference, mépris, or vulgar envy, it might be re- vealing to grant a glimpse of that crowded road, that difficult, arduous, and deceptive ascent that is called the path to glory. It would make those scoffers more indulgent to failure, more respectful of success, and less jealous of that enthusiastic homage which is the just reward of a perpetually sus- tained effort. The woman artist is one of the rare and beautiful flowers of life. A mark- ed personality from birth, she is alone in the midst of crowds; even in child- hood, she has a quality which dis- tinguishes her from her playmates, and it is this indefinable something that is the cause of all the envy and atten- tion that she receives. Thus sure rounded, yet isolated, she begins her apprenticeship to the exaltations and cruelties that are to be her portion throughout her life. All this matters but little to her, for what she wishes above all things and at all costs, is glory, and that glory alone is worth the pangs and sacrifices that she undergoes. Before she has even chosen her weapons, the young girl has become an Amazon determined to conquer life, a life that is brilliant, vivid, transcend- ent. But her weapon—does she really choose it? Is it not, rather, thrust upon her by her destiny? Whether a dreamer or a pure intellectual, she moves inevitably towards letters or aesthetics. Catulle Mendés, the French poet, says that if “she bears the proud shame of beauty,” it is the theatre alone that will satisfy her am- (Continued on page 202)

lA

WHO DRIVES A CAR>

No More Scuffs on Slippers! Tweedies save your light, fancy footwear from scuffiing, ase and dirt. Slip them on your heels when you drive. Cai them in your purse or car pocket when not in use. Made of fine woolen material, in black, browns and greys, to harmonize with shoes and costume. Snug-fitting. Light weight. Easilycleaned. No clumsy straps or buttens. Inexpensive. For sale by shoe stores and in the shoe sections of ———— stores. Write for names of dealers in your ocality. Tweedie Boot-Top Company, Makers of Glove- Fitted Tweedie Boot-Tops, 1423 Olive St.,St. Louis, Missouri. © 1925 by ‘Tweedie Boot- Y , a 3 —— \ 4

A knowledge of the painters will help an actress to choose correctly such costumes as these of the Second Empire

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JE rk- one Id- lis- ind t is en- ure her ind ion ers hes ry, ngs her ife, id= lly ust ra she the ars the m- of will ESS tly as the ire September 15, 1925 201 The Girdle Garter cA new accessory HE head of one of the foremost gymnasium schools for girls says that the only fault he has to find with the dress of the modern girl is the round garter. He maintains that when the garter is tight enough to hold the stocking taut and smooth, it is too tight to permit perfect circulation. Now comes the new Velvet Grip Girdle Garter which does not in the least retard circulation and allows of entire freedom of movement. Worn around the hips instead of at the waist line, the Girdle Garter is so comfortable that you hardly know it is there, and the stress is so planned that it cannot possibly slip down or out of place. of feminine dress The Velvet Grip Girdle Garter comes in different styles of webbing and shirred ribbon, in dainty colors and combinations of colors to harmonize with the prevail- ing shades in lingerie. Prices range from $1.00 to $2.50. The Girdle Garter is equipped with the new Velvet Grip clasp, having the Oblong Rubber Button with no metal stud in sight. And the fact that the Girdle Garter is made by the same people who have made the famous Boston Garter for so many years is your guarantee of quality, design and service. GEORGE FROST COMPANY—BOSTON Makers of Velvet Grip Girdle Garter, Patented February 10, 1925 Note:—This is a new product and the stores have not all had time to stock it. If you don’t find it readily, you may buy direct from us or ask your dealer to order for you. | J |

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Entirely New! &lbee Slendislip- Beneath its straight line, perfectly tailored costume slip, is a dainty, snug- fitting brassiere, so devised that by means of an extended front panel it gives the body smooth lines and holds the bust firmly in place. It is supported by a single pair of straps that will not slip off the shoulders. - Simple! Dainty! A pleasure to wear! Can be tubbed quickly and easily and will always retain its freshness and smooth lines. A perfect foundation for any costume For Sports and Day Time Wear. The Elbee Slendislip of Radium or Crepe de Chine, with deep shadow-proof hem. In Black, White, Flesh, Beige , and Grey. $9.75 $12.75 $15.75 For Evening Wear. The bee Slendislip of Ra- dium, with lace trim +4 and bottom and deep V back. In Black with Black lace, White with White lace, and Flesh with Ecru lace. $12.75 On sale at leading stores POWIS-BROWN COMPANY, INC. 347 Fifth Avenue, New York City DORA :—Didn’t I see you taking a tramp through the woods yesterday? BELLE :—Tihe idea! That was my father. | But whether she was taking a tramp or a hike, or just a plain autumn walk, you may be sure she was wearing a DARTMOOR sports costume. For DARTMOOR coats of rich, imported fabrics, luxuriously furred, DARTMOOR suits and modish tailored frocks are always worn by the best dressed women at country club, for week- ends, travel and motoring—for golf and all informal town wear. Carried in all the better sports and specialty shops DARCGDOOR Ooat OCompanir 13-21 East 22nd St., New York City we , & i.e a ar nm Bae Pity the actress who must spend endless hours of fatigue and boredom choosing gowns and conferring with the couturiers THE WOMAN AZ TistT (Continued from page 200) bitions. For those who dare to brave the footlights, who know that they are destined to stir into magnificent life a thousand splendours imagined by the poets, to reincarnate legendary queens and fabled heroines, the great figures of history and thought,—these women realize that they will never be worthy, unless they possess that stirring beauty that combines harmony of line with nobility of expression. All this brings us to an analysis of the real work of every artist. Even though she be gifted with that beauty of which we have spok- en, she can not exteri- orize it, so to speak, or can not express it, except through the me- dium of culture, that culture that embraces a knowledge of life, as well as an under- standing of literature and art. And knowl- edge of life comes only through suffering and keen observation. How shall she translate love unless she under- stands its hopes and fears. How shall she express the many phases of femin- inity unless she has passed through them herself; how cry out with agony unless she, too, has known the pangs of grief? To be genuine, every ges.ure, every in- tonation must be a reminiscence. Thus it is that the artist gives to her audi- ence not the illusion of life, but life itself, warm and palpitating. A knowledge of literature gives her the exact key in which to play her role. If the experiences of life teach her how The Thes pian forgets her travail in the glory and_ tribute after the curtain comes down tocommunicate emotion, literature sup- plies the rhythm, the measure in which it is to be presented. The class:c spirit is very different from the romantic one, nor have either of these anything in common with the spirit of to-day. The frenzies of Phédre can not be rendered in the manner of the ardoursof Marion Delorme or the angu:sh of “l’A moureuse.” Ninon, Mademoisel’e de Lespinasse, Desbordes« Valmore—here are char- acters who, though they feel the same emotion. ex- press it very differently. And what will aid the artist to a perfect cre- ation, if not literature and art? In order to play Céliméne, must we not go to Versailles, where those great paint- ers, Mignard and Lar- gilliére, will prescribe our costumes and at- titudes? These por- traits encourage us to dare those marvellous ornaments of cascading jewels, inspired by the splashing fountains com- manded for royal fétes, and to imitate the plumes and draperies of old tapestries. To be LlAventuriére, we choose those brilliant satins fastened with mother- of-pearl worn by ‘Tiepolo’s Cath- erine Cornaro in Venice. For Mar- ion Delorme, we _ bethink ourselves of those exquisitely formal dresses worn by Velasquez children. For Cas- tiglione, Winterhalter offers us endless material. Finally, to express every epoch, certain pensive or passionate figures of Greece or the Renaissance (Continued on page 206) Set Look

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UE sup- vhich spirit > one, ig in The dered arion use,” l'e de rdese char- they n, eX= ently. 1 the cre- ature pr to st we illes, aint- Lar- cribe 1 at- por- is to sllous iding y the com- fétes, umes ;. To those yther- Cath- Mar- selves "esses Cas- dless every onate sance September 15, 1925 Purse Size Twin, $1 with famous sliding draw- \ er . . The Tre-Jur Triple, with lip stick costs $1.25 Refills always available! ™~ Be he beginning of new wisdom + In the realm of face powders, it used to be “That which is good is costly.” Today, there’s a new gospel spreading fast —wafted on the wings of wisdom, “Pay ion but have the best.’ TRE-JUR FACE POWDER is a delightful contribution to Nature’s loveliness. As soft as a kiss in the dark— as fragrant as the woods at dawn. A flaw- less powder—at a price amazing! For Tre- Jur Face Powder, packed in a box of sing- ular beauty, costs but 50c. — of value—do you know there’s a elightful Tre-Jur Compact for every need— ingeniously encased, surprisingly priced! Sold at your favorite store or by mail The House of Tre-Jur, 19 West 18th Street, N.Y.C. TRE-JUI2 FACE POWDERS & COMPACTS Tre-Jur Thinest, $1 / A shallow “single” with / ample powder. Thinest / Double, with rouge, $1.50 F Refills always available! 4 cs —o re wwe Merwwwewesewsewree ot" f m or" aa ‘ } aah Look always for the Tre-Jur trademark the American symbol of Feminine Charm and a frank guarantee of your money’s most.

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204 Tue ACE oval teeth under a magnifying glass. Note the perfect smooth- ness; no rough edges to hurt or break the ©Phese combs have oval teeth to prevent breaking your hair HE teeth of ACE Combs are oval and hand-polished inside, to prevent sharp edges and roughness. They cannot hurt or break your hair. Made of hard rubber—the best sub- stance yet discovered for the making of combs—the special ACE process gives these combs a hard, impene- trable surface. The hard surface of ACE combs cannot be penetrated by germs. Even acids, used for sterilizing, cannot harm or dull them. Soap and water keep them shining like new. From the popular ACE-Hercules or the ACE-Unbreakable (splendid dressing combs), to the small but sturdy ACE-Vogue (for the bobbed- haired girl’s pocket-book), there is a different style for every member of the family. Each comb is absolutely sanitary, and comes packed in an in- dividual glassine envelope. Safeguard your hair by using your own personal ACE comb. Never use another’s comb, or allow your comb to touch another’s head. Department, notion and drug stores sell ACE combs. Ask for them by name. A special miniature comb Just to show you how excellent these ACE combs are, a special miniature comb has been made which we will send you for 15 cents in stamps, including postage and packing charges. You will love its fine quality, its good looks. It will dem- onstrate the character, material and finish of regular ACE combs. With the miniature comb will come a book, ‘‘Health Hints for Hair Loveliness.” It shows you how five minutes’ combing every night benefits your hair and gives you many other hints for developing its loveliness. Mail Coupon Stamps preferred 15 will entitle you — Cto the special min- iature ACE comb and a copy of “Health Hints for Hair Loveliness” including postage and packing charges. Send this coupon to AMERICAN HARD RUBBER CO., Dept. LM2, 11 Mercer Street, New York City. ADAME DE _ SEVIGNE’S prophecy that “coffee and Racine would have their day” has been dis- proved on both counts. The Parisians still flock to the Comédie Frangaise to hear Racine, and they are the great- est coffee drinkers of our time. Some one has ventured that Madame de Sévigné’s dislike of the beverage was because it was badly made. “No wonder she made a wry face over her cup with its hot, black decoction of muddy grounds thickened with sweet syrup. She never learned to recognize in the aroma a stimulant to faded brains and a restorative of outsparkled wits.” COFFEE IN A GONDOLA From Arabia, coffee passed into Western Europe, but at precisely what time historians have failed to agree. It is believed to have been introduced into Venice early in the seventeenth century, when it quickly became the fashionable drink. The Venetians drank it immediately upon getting up in the morning and after dinner, often carry- ing a decanter with them in their gon- dolas, to drink under the light of the moon. A turbaned blackamoor boy kept it hot and served it in iridescent Murano cups to the young gallants and their ladies who not only sipped it, but, often, ate the sweetened grounds. The coffee parties of the Turkish Ambassador, in Paris a few years later, Madame du Barry sat for her portrait in the act of taking her morning cup of the fashionable beverage The EUROPEAN DEBUT of COFFEE brought the beverage into notice in France. “The brilliant porcelain cups,” says Disraeli, “in which it is poured, the napkins fringed with gold, and the Turkish slaves on their knees, present- ing it to the ladies seated on the ground or on cushions, turned the heads of the Parisian dames.” Soon, coffee became the universal topic, and, in 1671, a café was opened by an Armenian, named Pascal, an exotic place with walls and ceiling decorated after the manner of like resorts in Turkey and Arabia. The place became a subject of general conversation for a few weeks, but it was not patronized by the haute monde because of the queer types of people who gathered there. THE FIRST CAFE A few years later, a Sicilian, Pro- cope, opened an elaborate place for cof- fee drinking across the street from the Théatre Francais, and this proved a success from the start. He procured a licence to sell spices, barley-water, lem- onade, sherbet, candies, and other such refreshments, and to these he added coffee, which proved to be most sale- able. He called his refreshment place, “Café,” the first of the innumerable French cafés, from which the use of coffee spread throughout the length and breadth of France. The café became the resort of all the famous wits, artists, (Continued on page 206) This old print depicts the gaiety of the Café de Paris, in 1843, the gathering place of the notables who came to sip their coffee and exchange ideas VOGU HD OWI OHI CHO CHICHICEHICHICHICHICHICWIOWD PS) hopping by mail at Swopes is most satisfactory. A very explicit catalogue of new Fall styles makes ordering extreme- ly pleasant and easy. A copy will be sent if you request it. C9 CHD OK9 CHI CHS CHI CHD CHD CHOTCHIGWICHIOWSD I) E 4 Easy Now To REDUCE! —the French Way A beautifully slender figure tay be preserved in later years or regained by the use of the delightfully perfumed Sel Amaigrissant Clarks (Clarks Thinning Salt) in the daily hot bath. This entirely harmless bath salt, the discovery of a famous French chemist, was intro- duced into this country by an American woman of social prom- inence, to whom it had been highly recommended by many leaders of fashion in Paris. The use of Clarks Thinning Salt makes reduction possible without dieting, medicine, ex- ercise or rubber bandages. A delightful toilet accessory for the woman of fieshy ten- dency. For sale by druggists, : department stores, hairdress- 4 Pounds ers, beauty apoctaliets, ete. If After 4 your dealer does not carry ” Clarks Thinning Salt, we will Baths be glad to supply you direct. wrote one An interesting booklet ‘The happy woman Charming Figure’’ sent on re- quest, The Orient Co., North Wales, Pa. Sole Manufacturer for U. 8. A. SEL AMAIGRISSANT CLARKS CLARKS THINNING SALT For sale by leading dealers including Altman, Stern, Gimbel, Macy, Park & Tilford in New York; Jordan Marsh & Co., Boston; Marshall Field & Co., Chicago; Strawbridge & Clothier and Evans, Philadelphia; The Halle Bros. Co., The May Co., Cleveland; Joseph Horne (v., Pittsburg; D. H. Holmes Co., New Orleans; S. Kann Sons Co., Washington.

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205 September 15, 1925 QJOLIEGJEANS a ‘New BIEN JoLie SOFT, boneless little girdle that gently re- strains the figure and per- mits you towear your hose as you will— below the knee or to its dignified full length. Made with the ex- actness and perfection characteristic of Bier Jolie Creations. Write for illustra- tions of the newest Bien Jolie models Benjamin & Johnes 358 Fifth Avenue New York r a ; a The Jolie Jeans is most agreeable to your Marshall! | . iii whims. Its delicate silk elastic bands sup- i | ne C2. \- . port your hose firmly, when worn full f “Orleans length. When worn with rolled hose, the | 7 ee re girdle stays securely in place. Eso ae - — The Jolie Jeans worn with The Jolie Jeans worn with hose at full length. rolled hose.

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Every girl’s problem Every girl in social life is confronted with the problem of how to be above reproach in the matter of personal dainti- ness — throughout the whole day and evening. Not mere soap-and-water cleanliness—for personal daintiness lies deeper than that. The unpleasant odor of per- spiration spoils the perfect toilette and marks a girl as un- feminine, however beautiful or charming or clever she may otherwise be. “Mum” is the word! A fingertip of “Mum,” the snow-white cream-deodorant, to the armpits and here and there assures you of lasting bodily daintiness. “Mum” does mot check perspiration. It simply neutralizes the odor. “Mum” is so entirely safe that women also use it with the sanitary napkin. Read the pam- phlet in each jar of “Mum”. “Mum” is 25c and 50c at stores or see Special Offer. (“Mum” is used by men, too, in the close contact of business and social life.) Remove Unwanted Hair To make the pretty curves of the underarm alluringly fresh and dainty, use Evans’s Depilatory Outfit. It quickly, surely and safely dis- solves the hair from underarm, face, neck or limbs. 75c at all stores or see Special Offer. ——Special OJer Coupon—— Mum Mfg. Ce., 1107 Che:tnut St. Philadelphia Herewith ........... for offer checked. (]*‘«Mum” 25ce. [] “Amoray” Powder Perfume Talc 25c. (J Evans’s Depilatory Outfit 75c. [] Roth“Mum” ari ‘“‘Amoray’”? 40c postpaid. [7] All .three— $1.25 worth for $1 postpaid ON is ceiisiech cng snrsntinviatensduhct eR ccve GR xcdicknnctbuds Sec Dealer’s Address.... Sept. 15, 1925 THE yield us their secrets of beauty of life and action. Along these paths lies the work of the actress who needs, far more than does a man, all the aid that physical beauty can give her. A man’s mission is of strenzth; hers, of seduction—that seduction that renders his force vain. Art, and, above all, the art of the theatre, is an exigent goddess. Her ser- vants must live continuously, vividly. To make this possible, one must ignore fatigue, not only in order to exist, ar- tistically speaking, but to radiate that br.liiancy without wh:-ch a réle is dead. An actress must possess indestructib!e health and unfailing energy. Consider for a moment what she must give to the creation of a réle: the constant and intelligent exercise of her memory, innumerable conferences with the cou- turiers, rehearsals day and night, daily performances in which she must sur- render her nerves to the intense emotion produced by action which, con- densed into a few hours on the stage, would, in every-day life, require days, or even years, to unravel. It goes with- out saying that she must actually ex- perience these emotions; if she feels nothing, neither will her public. Her responsibility is overwhelming. She must never forget those hundreds of faces bent towards her, those hun- dreds of hearts opened to her, waiting for the magic word or formula which will fix their uncertain thoughts and their imaginations. To refuse this word is only to delay that understanding of beauty which her art can bring. There- in lies the conscience of the artist; un- less she carries to her audiences the maximum of beauty, the very limit of her capabilities, she is not contribut- ing as she should to human evolution. And, when she envisages her réle from this angle, she has little desire for cheap sensationalism ; she will not throw to her public coloured stones instead of the celestial manna for which they hunger, and philosophes—Voltaire, Piron, Rous- seau, Marmontel, Diderot, and others. Voltaire and Diderot met there daily with their cronies. “Taking coffee, they overthrew religions, and, while they attacked heaven, they prepared, un- wittingly, the upheaval of the earth.” It was at the Café Procope that Fon- tenelle said, in reply to the remark that coffee was a slow poison, “I think it must be, for I’ve been drinking it daily for eighty-five years.” Fontenelle, who lived to be almost a hundred, was once conversing with a lady, only a few years younger than himself, when she touched him on the arm and laughingly remarked: “Monsieur, you and I stay here so long, methinks Death has for- gotten us.” “Hush! Speak in a whisper, Madame,” he replied “don’t remind him of us.” COFFEE ENTERS ENGLAND Coffee was first used in England about the middle of the same century. A Mr. Edwards, a merchant. brought from Smyrna to London a youth named Pasqua Rosee, who prepared a drink for him every morning. So many of his friends knccked at his door to sample the new beverage that Mr. Edwards was obliged to leave London. Later on, he backed his servant in a coffee-house venture, which proved to be most prof- itable. This place, set up in St. Michael’s Alley, was the first English coffee-house. Coffee soon became the WOMAN (Continued from page 202) The EUROPEAN DEBUT of COFFEE (Continued from page 204) ART is:T Incessant effort, continuous sacri- fice, perpetual tension of nerves, mus- cles, and intellect constitute the artist’s wonderful, but tyrannical mission. Victory over faint-heartedness, fai‘ure, the temptation to rest; victory over the hypocrisy and natural pessimism of life—how beautiful it is! It transforms woman into an eternal sentinel on the walls of those fort:fications that guard against the monsters of mediocrity, ug- liness, and evil, There are moments in an artist’s career when the temp- tation to yield to her ego, to a life de- voted to her own ind.viduality, is al- most too strong to bear, when she longs to cease that perpetual transmutation cf herself into a hundred other women of a hundred other epochs. But her duty can not be ignored, and she must go forward to the limit of her capabil- ities, This devotion brings one supreme recompense to the artist. She does not find it in the praise of the newspapers, nor in the possession of luxury, nor in pride of accomplishment. She finds it in her communion with her audiences. The woman artist is that woman who loves the Imposs:b’e Lover, the lover with a thousand faces and one soul, always changing, yet ever the same, who overwhelms without satisfying her, who demands of her what he can never give himself, Yet, what a lover is this public of hers, so near and yet so far, a sombre mass drowned in the shadows of the theatre, with a thou;- and phosphorescent eyes fixed on her with burning ques:ion. A moment of unspeakable emotion like this is more cruelly exquisite than any embrace. Therein lies her reward. It is for this electric moment that she subm?ts to the exigencies and the discipline of an ex- istence that is divine because it creates. She will never know how many souls her art may have awakened, how many sad hearts it has brightened, how often it liberates unsuspected heroism and in- calculable love, favourite drink, and shops where it was sold were places of popular resort. The coffee-house was a meeting-place for the interchange of ideas. Although King Charles felt called upon to suppress the coffee-houses, in 1675, because they “nourished sedition, spread les, scandalized great men, and might therefore be considered a com- mon nuisance,” the public outcry was so great that they were speedily opened again. The beginning of Queen Anne’s reign saw more than five thousand of them in England. Among the famous lovers of coffee were Voltaire, who is said to have drunk over fifty cups a day; Rousseau, of whom it was said that, when he died, “he just missed doing it with a cup of coffee in his hand;” Louis XV., who had a great passion for it and who made his coffee himself; his daughters, and his mistresses, Madame Pompadour and Madame du Barry. Among the latter-day writers who delighted in coffee were Balzac, Flaubert, Hugo, Baudelaire, de Musset, de Maupassant, and Zola. George Sand drank coffee and smoked cigarettes to the end. Talleyrand has given us the best summing up of the ideal cup of coffee. He said it should be: “Noir, comme le diable, Chaud, comme l’enfer, Pur, comme un ange, Doux, comme Pamour.” VOGUE Vanitie of Vanitics | Thy Name is Norida! OW the heart of the modern girl thrills to this wonderiul Vanitie! Nomoregritty cake pow- der—just that fragrant, downy loose powder that you can cerry in a Norida Vanitie without spiil- ing. Now you can be radiant and charming always—cearry a Norida with you everywhere —just rizht to slip in your purse, exquisitely engraved, gilt or silver, and filled with Fleur Sauvage (Wildflower) Poudre. Refill it yourself with your own Favorite Loose Powder. Worth many times its cost. Buy one at any toilet goods counter. If your dealer can't supply you, or.'er direct from Norida Parfumerie, 630 South Wabash Avenue, Chicago, IIl.nois. Single Trouble Powder only Powder and REDUCE YOURFLESH arms, legs, bust or entire body with DR. WALTER’S Rubber Garments Y garments have been worn by men and women for 20 years. They are inval- uable to those sutfer- ing from rhcumatism. Reducing Corset: Cream colored rubber. Laced back, clasp front. Made to your measures, $12.00 Chin Reducer . . $2.50 Reducing Corset Neck & Chin .. 3.50 DR. WALTER’S Medicated Rubber Stockings The wearing of these wonderful medicated rubber anklets and stockings (in either light or dark rubber) will not only reduce and shape the I.mbs but give excellent support and a neat and trim appearance. They relieve swelling, varicose veins and rheumatism promptly. Worn next to the skin they induce natural heat and keep it in the body. They stimulate the circulation and are a great protection against cold and dampness. Anklets, per pair $ 7.00 Extra high $ 9.00 Stockings, per pair $12.00 Send ankle and calf measure WRITE FOR BOOKLET TO - sa DR. JEANNE B. WALTER 389 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK Near 6th Street, Suite 625 Philadelphia—Mary Kammerer, 221 So. 11th St. ae POO POO Buck & Rayner 7 Washington—Gibson Co., Inc., 917 G St. N. Los Angeles—Adele Millar, 225 Loew's State Bldg. (Be eve hips free bod bus left con stre Spe in |

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dern | lerful owny ccrry spiil- r and orida right sitels filled wer) with yder.

Compact ESH body 2R’S ments s have rn by for 20 inval- sutter- autism. Cream Laced Made $12.00 $2.50 3.50 igs licated either reduce cellent wrance. is and

TER .K th St. Stores W Bldg.

September 15, 1925 Backless CORS-O BAND (Below) Specially designed for evening wear. Closely confines hips, while affording grac.ous freedom to upper portion of body. Also, gently controls bust and diaphragm. Fastens at left side front with cleverly concealed hooks and eyes, straps detachable. Special Batiste-—$15; also made in Brocade, Skinner Satins and imports.

The “COATEE” (Right) Another Cors-O-Band model, exquisitely fashioned. Assures perfect figure control, yet yields comfortably to every movement of the body. Hooks in center front concealed; soft tricot over bust; lightly boned in back with lacing under arms, adjustable to any type of figure. Elastic band, attached at one s‘de and hooking at other, provides added diaphragm control. Coutil—$10; also made in imported Batistes, Silk Brocades and Skinner Satins.

© HE stunningly attired woman knows that her foundation garment must be the basis of her slim, chic silhouette of figure. She wisely chooses the modern “corset-substitute” that exactly suits her type of figure. For you there is a Hypatia creation with novel exclusive features assuring you of the modish lines that will complete the ensemble of your charm. At our STUDIO Visit our Corset Studio and be or by MAIL fitted under the personal super- vision of our designer. Or—you may order by mail, giving exact measurements of hips, waist and bust, snug over corset. Specify material. Satisfaction assured. HYPATIA CORSET COMPANY, INC. 20-22-24 West 37 h Street New York Just off Fifth Avenue po CORSETS 207 Innovations in pliant corseting for grace and smart- ness Gt ine: . . . CORS-0-BAND The ‘‘WELLESLEY” (Right) A lovely girdle, en- dorsed by Miss Haagenson, physical director of Wellesley College, as providing necessary restraint for slender young women. Light elastic inner belt, and elastic over h'ps, ef- fectively, but yieldingly, sup- port musc‘es. Cloth apron sec- tions conceal and flatten back h p muscles. Mercerized Cotton Brocade— $3; Fine Silk Brocade—$4; Skinner Boot Satin—$6. (Below) The Cors O-Band is complete in its per- fected details, because the side lacing enables it to fit perfectly any type of figure. further adjustments unnecessary. tricot or soft Jersey and cloth perfectly controls diaphragm by means of attached garters. ab.e brassiere and shoulder straps permit frequent laundering. Simple and practical—it is hooked oa and off in a minute. Distort- ing no muscle, it gently per- suades each organ into new harmony and beauty. Coutil—$11.50; also made in Silk Brocades, and Skinner Satins. Once fitted Brassiere of Detach-

—_ : é ae | : a 4 a J

The MELT-A-WA ” For actual, pleasant reduc- ing. Scientific, pliant bon- ing back and front, Smoothly outlines the fig- ure. Lacing at side for ad- justment. Rubber covered mesh, adding strength to rubber. Rubber Covered Mesh—$15; Silk Covered Rubber—$25.

...another Hypatia success! DIAPHRAGM BéLT (worn over any corse.) Created as a necessity to neat grooming, it gives that essent‘al control of diaphragm and back hip line. Beautifully tailored of 4-:nch s‘lk or cot- ton elastic, slanting to sections of material with garter attachment. Perm:ts gowns to harg in siraight smart lines. Cotton Brocade—$3; S'nner Sat'n—$5. Invisibly hooked at side.

os © Send for FREE Booklet, ill<- trating various models

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“VOGUE PATT Pe. may be ordered store or office from which you order. ABERDEEN, S. D.: The Olwin-Angell Co. AKRON, O.: The A. Polsky Co. ALBANY, N. Y.: W. M. Whitney & Co. ANN ARBOR, MICH. : Wm. Goodyear & Co, ey may eg *WISC.: The Pettibone-Pea- y Co ASHEVILLE, N. C.: Bon Marché, Inc. ATLA) ™ ot hamberlin, Johnson, DuBose mpany ATLANTIC C TY, N.J.: M.E. Blatt Coj the epertepent 9 Ter of Atlantic C ity ATTLEBORO, ASS.: Fine’s, 59 Park | | i Street ll AUSTIN, TEXAS: Adam Johnson Co. BALTIMORE, MD.: Hutzier i eoeae Co., or O'Neill and C ompany, In —_ ~y~ NT, TEXAS: The Rosenthal | | ate | BELLINGHAM, WASH.: J. B. Wahl Store i ee MASS.: A Almy, Bigelow & Wash- BILLINGS, ae The D. J. Cole Co. oe AMTON Ra : Sisson Bros.- H Welden Com | oo o_o re Louis Pizitz Dry s Co, | BLOOMINGTON, ILL.: | on & | BOSTON. "MASS.: R. H. Stearns Com- \| any, or Jordan Marsh Company || BRIDGEPORT, CONN.: The D. M. Read Company | Abraham & Straus Mayer Livings- HI BROOKLYN, N. Y.: | BUFFA LO, N. Y.: Flint & Kent BURLINGTON » VT.: F. D. Abernethy NTON, 0. hy Klein-Heffelman- } CU oilars Com or the Stern & Mann Co. | CEDAR RAPID DS: FOWA: The Denecke Co. || CHAMPAIGN L.: G. C. Willis | GHARLESTON, AW VA.: Coyle and Richardson | CHARLOTTE, N. C.: J. B. Ivey & Co. | CHICAGO, ILL.: Carson Pirie Scott & Chas. A. Stevens & Bros., — Bros. or = Brothers cINGt NATI, O.: S. Pogue Co., or the John Shiilito AE dn +i Company, CLEVELAND, O.: Halle Bros. ey . C.: J. L. Mimnaugh & Co. COLUMB yy ‘The F. & R. Lazarus & Comp: omy CUMBERLAND, MD. :McMullen Bros.,Co. DALLAS, TEXAS: Titche- Goettinger "Co. DANBURY, CONN.: Jolin McLean, Inc. DANVILLE, oes Straus & Louis Company DANVILLE, V. . Herma DA VENPORT, iOWaA: | a i. C. Petersen's n & Co. DAYTON, O.: The Rike-Kumler Co. DECATUR, ILL. :WilliamGushardCom ~ fl — COLO.: The Joslin Dry "Good anne or The Denver Dry Goods Co. DES OINES, I : Harris-Emery Co. DETROIT, MICH. The J. L. Hudson Co. DULUTH, MINN. : Silberstein & Bondy Co. DUNKIRK, N. Y.: T Sidey Estate DURHAM, ’N. C.: Rawls-Knight Co. ELGIN, ILL.: Ackemann Bros. ELMIRA, N. Y.: S. F. Iszard Co. EL PASO, TEXAS: Popular Dry Goods Co. $5 PA. dg Prescott & Richardson Co. VANSTO N, IL EVA NSVILLE, : Lord's, Fountain Square vs IND? S. G. Evans Dry FARGO, aNO. DAKOTA: A. Ricker Co. FLINT, MICH. : Warrick ao Inc. FORT SCOTT, nes — W. J. Cal- houn Dry Goods pmpany FORT WORTH, rs AS: Sanger as. FRANKFORT, KY.: W. S. Farmer & FRESNO, CALIF. Radin & Kamp, Inc. GALESBURG, we + us T. Johnson Co. GLENS FALLS, Boston Store Co. — RAPIDS: Mirch Friedman- cRent PRLES le Compan The Paris Dry Goods Com GREEN BAY. PWISC.: Jorgensen Blesch Co. GREENS SBORO, N. C.: Brown's Depart- ment GREENWICH, CONN.: The Charles N. OWN. MD.: Leiter Brothers ‘ONN.: Sage-Allen&Co., Inc. : F. A. Buttrey Company , MASS.: rge’s Hor SPRINGS, ARK.: : The Specialty Shop HOUSTON, TEXAS: Foley Brothers Dry Goods Com mpeny HUNTINGTON, W. VA.: Anderson-New- comb Co. SE abe ten cebod KAN.: The Wri std Foote Com aay INDIANAP LIs, I Ayres & Co. KSON, MICHIGAN: Cook & Feldher an. ON. M MISS.: R. E. Reatiagien Co. STOWE FLA.: Cohen Bros — OWN, N. Y.: The Silk & Specialty 10 JOHNSTOWN, PA.: coum me Kline JOLIET, ILL.: L. F. Bea JOPLIN. MISSOURI: Ned Dry Goods ‘om: AMAZOO, MICH.: Gilmore Bros. KANKAREE, ILL.: The Chicago Store KANSAS CITY, MO.: John Taylor Dry Goods Company LAKE gy ey LA.: The Muller Co., Ltd Ryan Street LANGAS1 ER, QO.: Chas. P. Wiseman & Co. LANCASTER, PA.: Hager & Bro. LANSING, MICH. : J. W. Knapp Co. LAWRENCE, KANS. ‘Innee-Hackman & Co. LEXINGTON > LINCOLN, BR.: ‘Miller & Paine eat E ROCK, ARK.: go Gus Blass Co. LOS ANGELES, CAL.: J. W. Robinson Co. LOUISVILLE, KY.: Miles Silk pee LOWELL, MASS: The Bon Marché Dry Goods Co. LYNCHBURG, VA.: D. Moses & Co., Inc. Pegues- “ta QUEBEC, Henry Morgan & Spring Issue . ‘ . . Jan. 1 Early Summer Issue... .: ° Mar.1 Summer Issue .......... May 1 At All Stores and News-stands . mail, Greenwich, Connecticut, or 15 North Je purchased at any of the shops listed below, where books of colour sketches and lengths of the season's favoured materials are also exhibited. VOGUE FASHION BI - |_Ordered by Mail .....---- ERN SERVICE F iaweny prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, rson Street, Chicago, Illinois, or they may be Remittances should be made out to the Patterns may be purchased in: MADISON, WISC. :HarryS. Manchester, Inc. ANCHESTER , N. H.: The Barton Co. . OHIO: The Frank Bros. Co. [EMPHIS, TENN.: The John Gerber Co. [ERIDEN, CONN.: The Ives, Upham & Rand Co. MIAMI, FLA.: Burdine & Quarterman MIDDLETOWN, CONN.: The James H. Bunce Co. MIDDLETOWN, N. Y.: The Amie Norris Company, eh ames Street MILWAUKEE, WISC.: Bertha os The Specialt Shop, 106 Wisconsin MINNE APOLIS, MINN.: ‘he as Co. MORR ISTOWN, N.J.: The Florence Shoppe MUNCIE, ” Py ie A. morone ten Co. NEWARK, N. J.: L . Bamberger & Co. — BRITAIN, CONN. : Davidson & Lev- nthal NEW CASTLE, PA.: Brown & Hamilton Co. NEW HAVEN, CONN. :TheChas.MonsonCo. » ey DON, CONN.: The James Hislop Co. NEW. ORLEANS, LA.: D. H. Holmes Co., Ltd., or Charles A. Kaufman Co., Ltd. NEW ROCHELLE, N. Y.: Ware's NEW YORK CITY: # Al.man & Co., John Wanamaker, R. H. Macy, Inc., Para- soos Silk House, or Vogue Pattern Room, net th St. VA.: Smith & Welton, Inc. NORRISTOWN PA.: New York Store OA — CALIF.: Taft & OIL Clry, PA.: Cc. H. Smith Son’s Company OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLA.: The Kerr y Goods Co. OKMULGEE, ¢ OKLAHOMA: Ramsay Ful- fond Pg s Co. OLE N. re eodieer’ s oMink. NEBR. : : Thompson, Belden & Co. PADUCA KY.: The E. Guthrie Co. PASADENA, CALIF.: : Dunning’s Silk Store, 288 E. Colorado Street PAWTUCKET, R. I.: Shartenberg & Robin- son Co. EORIA, ILL.: Block and Kuhl Company ETERSBURG, VA.: A. Rosenstock & Co. HIL ADELPHIA, PA.: John Wanamaker HOENIX, ARIZ. : Korrick’s Dry Goods Co. TTSBURGH, PA.: Joseph Horne Co., or Kaufmann’s PLAINFIELD, N. J.: The Silk Shop, 135 West Front St. = —— MAINE: Eastman Bros. & roft PORTLAND, aes Charles F. Berg, 309- I Morrison Stree PORTSMOUTH, ‘OHIO: The Marting POUGHKEEPSIE,N.Y. :Luckey,Platt&Co. PROVIDENCE, R. I.: Gladding Dry Goods Company RICHMOND, VA.: Thalhimer Bros., ROANOKE, VA.: Hancock Dry G ROCHESTER, N. Y.: McCurdyandCo.,Inc. ROCKFORD, ILL.:D. J. Stewart & Co. RUTHERFORD, N.J.: William F. Tels- chow, 284 Park Ave. SACRAMENTO, CAL.: Weinstock-Lubin and Com mee SALEM ASS.: Wm. G. Webber Co. a. LT LAKE CITY, UTAH :Keith-O' Brien SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS :Wolff & Marx Co. SAN EGO, "CALIF. : Dunning’s Silk hn ms t Sixth Street SAN FRA NCISCO, CAL.: The White ouse, Raphael Weil! & Company SAVANNAH, GA.: Morrison-Sullivan D. G. Co. SCHENECTADY, N. Y.: Hewett's Silk Shop, Inc. SCRANTON, PA.: Scranton Dry Goods Co. SEATTLE, WA — The MacDougall & Sou thwick Comoe —, MO.: "W. Flower Dry Goods SHRE EVEPORT, LA.: Zodiag’ s, Inc. SIOUX CITY, igwa : Pelletier’s SIOUX FA LLS, s.D -3 Gill & Sons Co. OUTH BEN : The Ellsworth Store SPOKANE, WASH.: Whitehouse Co. SPRINGFIELD, MASS. : Bay State Trim- = 4 280 Bridge St., or Meekins ackard & Whea' SPRINGFIELD, OHIO: Dresler’s Magazine Sho ST. JOSEPH, MO.: oe. Townsend, Wyatt and Wall Dry Goods ST. a = Stix, Base & Fuller Dry . PAUL, MINK ST. PAUL. INN.: Mannheimer poe. STAUNTON » VA.: Charles Holt, I Y.: _y Brothers ane Co. ey Brothers TERRE HAUTE, IND.: A. Herz, Inc. TOLEDO, O.: zszze Pennoyer ehhh La Salle & Koch Co. TOPEKA, KANSAS: The Crosby Bros. Co. TREN TON. N. J.: Hoenig, Swern & Co. TROY, N. Y.: G. V. S. Quackenbush & Co. TULSA, OKLA: The Brown-Dunkin Dry Goods Ho tard HILL, N. J.: The Silk Shop A, N.Y.: "The Fitzgerald Silk i, Inc. WARREN, PA.: Metzer-Wright Co. WASHINGTON,D. Cc. :Woodward&Lothrop WATERBURY, CONN.: The Miller and Peck ised WHEELING, W. vans ,Steme * Thomas Lad Sa KANS.: The Geo. Innes Co. LKES-BARRE SPA. :Thelsaacl-ongStore WILLIAMSPORT. PA . L. Sterns & Sons WILMINGTON, DEL. : Schwartz ~~." Co. WINONA, MINN. : H. Choate WINSTON-SALEM, N.. C.: Ideal Dry Silk Goods Co. WORCESTER, MASS.: Slocum’s reet S, N. ae Alterson & Rothman YORK, PA.: Chas. H. mt de pany YOUNGSTOWN, O.: The G. M. McKel- vey Company Canada TORONTO, ONTARIO, The Robert Simp- son Co., Ltd. M ONTHLY Early Autumn Issue ..... July 1 ee eee Sept. 1 Winter Bese... west 0 oe OA ere ao ig a ne 5 kw se # oes ee oe oe ee Sherril Schell This eighteenth-century print shows an English tea-table scene of that period TEA CUSTOMS NCIENT books inform one that the tea-plant is indigenous to China, so that the natural inference is that the Celestial Land is its native land. The Chinese have cultivated and drunk tea for more than a thousand years, and to them belongs the credit of having been the first to appreciate its blessings. There is one Chinese legend that speaks of the discovery of tea as being made by Chin-Nung, to whom most medical knowledge is traced in China. In replenishing a fire, made of the branches of the tea-plant, some of the leaves fell into the vessel in which he was boiling water for his evening meal, and, tasting it, he found it to be so exhilarating in its effect that he continued to use it and gave it to his friends to try, so that its use quickly spread through the country. It was Chin-Nung who said: “Tea is better than wine, for it leadeth not to intoxi- cation, neither does it cause a man to say foolish things and repent thereof in his sober moments, It is better than water, for it doth not carry disease.” Tea was brought into Europe by the Dutch East India Company in 1610. It was about a half-century later before England began to appreciate the new drink. It was Catherine of Braganza who made it fashionable, which led the poet Waller to write: “The best of herbs and best of queens we owe To that bold nation which the way did shew To that fair region where the sun does Pepys twice alludes to tea in his famous diary, the entry reading: “I did send for a cup of tee, a China drink, of which I never drank before” and again in 1667: “Home, and there found my wife, making of Tee, a drink which Mr. Polling the Pothecary, says is good for her cold.” Dr. Johnson gives the Earls of Arlington and Ossory the credit of having first introduced the herb into England. He says that they brought it from Holland in 1666 and that their ladies taught Englishwomen of quality how to use it. One authority has it that tea was sold in almost every part of London in the middle of the seventeenth century. It was so expensive, however, at that time, that the East India Company thought two pounds a gift worthy the acceptance of the King. Dramatists OF OTHER DAYS railed against it, however, as only “fit for women and men who lived like women.” In 1678, Mr. Henry Saville wrote to his uncle, Secretary Conventry, in disparagement of his friends who had fallen into “the base, unworthy practice of calling for tea after dinner in place of the pipe and the bottle.” An advertisement of the period reads thus: ‘That excellent and by all physi- cians approved, China drink, called by the Chineans Tcha, by other nations Tay, alias Tee, is sold at the Sultanes Head Coffee House, by the Royal Ex- change, London.” A broad sheet pre- served in the British Museum thus exalts the beverage: “The quality is moderately hot, proper for winter or summer. The drink is declared to be most wholesome, preserving in perfect health until extreme old age. The par- ticular virtues are these: It maketh the body active, helpeth the headache, the giddiness and heaviness thereof. It taketh away difficulty of breathing. It vanquisheth heavy dreams, easeth the brain and strengtheneth the memory. It overcometh superfluous sleep and pre- venteth sleepiness in general, a draught of the infusion being taken, so that without trouble whole nights may be spent in study without hurt to the body.” Good Queen Anne was among the celebrated votaries of tea. Pope made note of this fact in a couplet: “Though great Anne, whom the realms obey, Doth sometimes sometimes Tea.” counsel take—and The poets of England of the seven- teenth and eighteenth centuries made much sport of tea-drinking and tea- drinkers. To them, scandal was always an indispensable accompaniment to it. “Still, as their ebbing malice it supplies, Some vic:m falls, some reputation dies.” Tea was the great Dr. Johnson’s only stimulant, and he drank much of it. And so, in this way, he sketched his own portrait: “A hardened and shame- less tea drinker, who for twenty years diluted his meals with the infusion of this fascinating plant; whose kettle had scarcely time to cool; who with Tea armed the evening, with Tea solaced ’ the midnight, and with Tea welcomed the morning.” s. 5S.

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UE YS y “fit | like aville entry, who orthy inner reads hhysi- >d by tions tanes | Ex- pre- thus ty is or or to be rfect par- h the , the ; it g. It 1 the ry. It pre- ught that y be . the + the nade alms —and -ven- nade tea- ways to it. plies, ation only f it. 1 his ame-= years m of » had Tea laced ymed September 15, 1925 a 209 SEPTEMBER 28th, 29th and 30th HERGDOR OODMAN 616 FIFTH. AVENUE NEW YORK EXHIBITION OF FURS AT THE BLACKSTONE, CHICAGO. A Russian Ermine Coat of Exquisite Charm. Created by Bergdorf-Goodman. ORAWN BY ETHEL PLUMMER This demure damsel will add the last inimitable touch to her after-the-bath toilette with a ° FASHIONETTE HAIR NET ashionette HAIR NETS SAMSTAG & HILDER BROS. ° DISTRIBUTORS NEW YORK oster- SI bo AY and Hosiery for Women and children ie new SFOSTER iS wea tront «stfap A ‘e 1 ° aiternoon siipper with the new —> . 1 ~ 1 1 2/3 inch French heel FE. Soster Company Lf s City a i C7 hicago » Ovanston eACansda BCG alts é . Grist he mx

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This ts the cover of the next Vogue NINETEEN Madame stands before the curtain of the mode. Spotlights play upon her—a world’s wonder and interest. Isn’t she smart? Isn’t she lovely? Isn’t she the poised and brilliant woman of the world? But for all this, she has rivals . . . many of them. Behind the rainbow colour-poem of her curtain is the brilliant pag- eant of the autumn mode. She has but to turn the cover page of Vogue on which she stands to find other Cinderellas... toilettes that are perfection . . . gowns that express the new shortness, the new softness, the new femininity, the new colour-magic of the mode. Nineteen pages from Paris in October 1 Vogue. Text, draw- ings, photographs bring the first accounts of the openings of the great couturiers. The trend of the mode for winter is established—without doubt confirming the forecast of this issue—but all of it new, amazing, in the way that each PAGES VOGUE Early Parts Openings Number dated October 7 FROM PARIS creator has made the new feeling as slim as the old one—and as young. — The New York pages select the ever-important topic of the chic shoe. Shoes for all occasions are shown, shoes for an army —an army that walks or dances on little miracles of woven metal cloth, and floss, and antelope. Then, there are evening wraps that will sway their velvet and colour, this winter, at Sherry’s and the Metropolitan. Pages from London picture—effectively as only Vogue could picture them—every correct kind of riding habit, and smart accessories that accompany them down Rotten Row. So much for the three capitals of the world. Then, fur coats and daytime hats as seen in the shops. Pages of the newest Vogue patterns. Society, Art, The Stage, Decoration. That’s Vogue . . . that’s October 1 Vogue, on sale Septem- ber 25th. Reserve your copy at the news-stand now! VOGUE CONDE NAST, Publisher EDNA WOOLMAN CHASE, Editor 395 cents a copy HEYWORTH CAMPBELL, Art Director $5.00 a year OTN ar RAR ALDT -_~ —

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nd he ay en 1g at rt its st A | Maternity Corsets RAID OTT September 15, 1925 Lane Bryant is the largest house in the world selling Maternity Apparel daily to thousands of ex- pectant mothers. The farrous Lane Bryant Corset is tle periected prod- uct of 20 years of expe- rience. It is the best corset in the world. Made in our workrooms. 3.95 6.95 to 12.50 If unable to call, write Dept. GI for Free Style Book AAA A, AL a, Le Ae A “Si7_ViZ_ Va a a ZN Na a a a SEZ SaZ SZ SEZ AZ SAZ SA? Sa? ae ly Sy,sSds,s aS 4 Mg) MME ys Priceless Advantages of beauty and poise! See how swiftly and gently Neet, the ready-to-use hair removing cream brings you thrilling lovelinessand charm. You will agree that no other method is so rapid and convenient, no other cream so thorough and satisfactory, as Neet. Especially for the larger surfaces of legs and arms. With Neet you merely rinse the hair away. Amazing new beauty of skin comes quickly. Without slightest suggestions of having re- moved the offending hair. That is why hundreds of thousands of mothers and daughters depend on Neet always, for happy freedom to wear what they will. The most fashionable of gowns, sheerest of hose, yield greatest delight. The close contact at dances, parties, brings no moments of fear, of hesitancy to thrill to the spirit of the hour. Learn all that Neet means to you. Buy Neet at your drug or department store, today. Test it critically. You will find it an amazingly quick and gentle method, the hair positively will not come back thicker and coarsr fvl- lowing its use. Note the whiteness of underarm in contrast with dark- ened skin where harsh methods are used. Neet is 50c per tube and sold always on the basis of com- plete satisfact:on or money back. More than 35,000 Druggists sell Neet. Every D-ug or Department Store has Neet or will gladly get it for you. Hannibal Pharmacal Co., St. Louis, Mo, f LL OBESE LOST ONT OE eT ROE hive . SGN Lane Bryant 21 W. 38th St. 26W.39thSt. NEW YORK Hanover Place nr. Fulton BROOKLYN CKICAGO: 101 N.Wabash DETROIT: 1452 Farmer St. ST. LOUIS: Sixth and Locus —G ae a NEZ NaN a7 SE y | Very Special Ask your Neet dealer for IMMAC H also. IMMAC is the dainty, snow-white Cream Deodorant that ride undcr- arm perspizationof all odor and insures personal fragrance, 211 x 167 Bromley Jersey Frock $25 Two-piece dress of tan Balbriggan jersey, trimmed w:th tan and bruwn b aid and bone buttons, and with pockets in belt. Made to your individ- ual measurements for $25, up to size 42. Larger sizes, $28. Bromley jersey frocks do not hug the figuie. Sh.pped on same day order is received, p-epaid to any audress in the United States or Canada, plus duty. BROMLEY-SHEPARD, INC. Designers and makers of Individual Clothes for Women Do not confuse with other firms 92 Pa’ ge Street Lowell, Mass. Eoston Shop - - - 406 Boylston St. New York Office - - 429 Fifth Ave. Shop at Hyannis, Mass. Agents wanted A FRIEND IN LONDON There is a pleasant office in Ald- wych House, just off Kingsway and the Strand, where half a dozen friendly and experienced people are ready to undertake various ser- vices for readers of The Condé Nast magazines and charge nothing for their assistance. It is the London Office of The Condé Nast Travel and Information Bureau. One or another of its staff has per- sonal knowledge of nearly every resort in England and the Conti- nent. They will suggest itineraries, make hotel, railway and steamship reservations, and quite possibly get you special rates or consideration. They are acquainted with all the best shops in London, and the provincial firms or industries which make dis- tinctive things. They will tell you where to shop, dine, dance, what plays to see, and advise you on what’s going on and where to enjoy it. Visit The Condé Nast Travel Bureau when you are in London. It is a service to our readers; and there is no fee at all. THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU Aldwych House, London 19 West 44th St. New York 2 Rue Edouard V11 Paris By mail from V. Darsy or at the following shops. San Francisco: The White House; a'so the Palace Hotel Beauty Salon. Cleveland: Halle Brothers. New York: Stern Brothers. OURISH YOUR tissues and have the fine clear skin of youth. Créme de Beauté is the surest and quickest means to a lasiing youthful complexion. Its regular use nourishes the tissues, fills out hollows, banishes wrinkles and permanently eliminates traces of age and fatigue. It is your assurance of the peach-blow freshness of a youthful skin. Créme de Beauté —An exquisite greaseless cream to preserve a healthy skin and restore neglected tis- sues. Impa*ts the transparent fairness of a youthful skin. $4.00. Trial size $1.75. Write now for booklet and questionnaire V.DARSY 17-V West 49th Street §4 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré Paris New York Doctors endorse this new way to reduce fat—free from drugs, sweating, severe diet, or other hardships. tion and assimilation. Noted Food Experts and Dietitians have at last evolved a combination of foods that actually reduces weight in a nerfectly natural manner—BASY CONCENTRA, combined with Agar-Agar and laxative fruits. BASY CONCENTRA is deliciously palatable; absolutely pure; ready to serve; and remark- ably effective. It produces the one effect vital to weight reduction—it prevents over- nourishment in any part of the body, pro- motes normal bowel action, and aids diges- DOCTORS’ ESSENTIAL FOODS CO. 37 Oakland Av., Orange, N. J. =a REDUCE—Easily, Naturally, Safely! Send $5.00 For Five Weeks Treatment Thousands and thousands of peorle testify to the wonderful efficacy of BASY CON- CENTRA. Most of them heard ahout it from their physicians. If you are over- weight vou owe it to vourself to try BASY CONCENTRA—and the sooner the better. Send $3.00 todav for five weeks treatment and see the results; or write for interesting free book and list of dealers When Your Ship Comes In (THESE metal bookends pic- ture a black silhouette ship against an orange backgrourd. ‘Lhey are hand decorated, as are all our creations, in our own studios, Mailed ina gift box, one dollar the pair, postpaid. The above is but one of many exceptional values shown in our latest illus- trated booklet of hand decorated gifts and bridge prizes. Our Dooklet is gratis if you will fill out and mail the coupon. Tue CeLesrity Art ComPANY 312 Stuart St., Boston, Mass. Address

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VOGUE F Gm tee Zan One of the few cars about which it truthfully may be satd that nothing could be added to make tt more acceptable to the owner... CAR that brings you all there is of with the years. Its patented sleeve-valve reece richness of appointment and engine does away with carbon troubles. 224 comfort... plus an operation so There are no valves to grind. incre aid quiet ae int in the driver’s That is why it runs so smoothly, wears so one mig th oo ns ep ws in a everlastingly. That is why, instead of taper- whisper with other occupants of the car... ing off in engine efficiency, your 60 horse- And your pride and pleasure in your beauti- _ power Willys-Knight Six gains in power and ful Willys-Knight Six will grow increasingly in performance with every mile. Six-cylinder models from $1750 to $2295. Four-cylinder models from $1195 to $1595. F.O.B. Toledo. We reserve the right to change prices and specifications without notice. ta Willys-Overland, Inc., Toledo, Ohio Willys-Overland Sales Co. Ltd., Toronto, Canada THE CONDE NAST PRESS GREENWICH, CONN.

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Redhat, 3 aa fs e ERCE-ARROW Dual-Valve SIX , Open Cars $5250, Closed Cars $7000, at Buffalo Government Tax Additional

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/ y ; : It will pay you to send forthe ¥ beastiful Type A book which H ¥ Mr. Wolf shows to his clients. At tells, with interesting pic- - ‘ ‘tures, just why Type'A is so ' ; efficient that it pays for itself in fuel saving. Simply address ; the office below. TE at When men who build for others build homes “PF-HE IDEAL Type A Boiler and Corto .. Radiators,” answers Albert M.Wolf, of Wolf, Sexton, Harper and Trueax, Chicago Engineers and Architects. “The Type A Heat Machine installed in my residence excels in economy of operation any other boiler I have had occasion to operate,” he continues. “I have used Corto Radiators through- out; it is the logical choice for a resi- dence, combining fine appearance and grace with high efficiency.” Most architects and engineers concur in this judgment, The IDEAL Type A This is Corto, the Radi- ator Classic which Mr. Wolf so highly endors- es. A finely illustrated Corto book will giadly be mailed on request to the office below. what heating | equipment a. do they specif (ie Cik ad and Corto Radiators appeal to their sense of beauty. But performance is even more im- portant. The revertible flues of Type A, its tight-fitting doors, water-surrounded ashpit and fire-pot, and automatic damper control, combine to give maximum efficiency; while the Corto, because of its slender, graceful columns, occupies a third less floor space than the ordinary radiator and heats up even more quickly. Send for the Type A and Corto boo that give the full facts. er) For sale by the Heating and Plumbing Trade everywhere AMERICAN RADIATOR COMPANY Ls ee ~ he SS « Dept. .5°7 , 1807 Elmwood Avenue, Buffalo, N.Y. Sales Offices in all principal cities = QOA.R.Co., 192g toe ti ES ee m-th on Fag * — a ee Pn aan