Vogue 1924-04-15: Vol 63 Iss 8

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' \ \ ih Te oe ial & acts . ¢ s\ _ * se oe RZ s 4 “4 Cys, WV . « en b 2 es ie ae heiy ¢ iW: at Me UAT ba IVA A200 149249 al 15 1924 ' The Conve Nast Pusuications /nc. f

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pe a) YEARS THE MOST Below aveshown four of the exquisite Veolay articles de to ilett te— Les Sylt 1es Ti tlc, Niobe Perfume, Ambre Royal Powder, ond Loos- pact, a dainty new box affording a praci tical way of carrying loose Ambre Roye al Powder. PERFUMES EXQUISITE TOILET WATERS Pe eR OR OT Spe of ‘oe PRODUCTIONS IN FRENCH TOILET REQUISITES FOR 100 SC ag Cc Mss. Louis Livingston has one of the most charming houses in New York, and that house one of the most charming rooms, and that room one of the most delightful dressing-tables, on which are all her favorite Veolay perfumes. VEOLAY (Maison Violet—PARIS) POWDERS TALCUMS ROUGE CREAMS SOAPS BATH SALTS Tei ais For more than 100 years the house of Veolay has upheld in its perfumes and toilet requi sites the same rare qualities which won them their ‘Warrant of Excellence’’ from Napoleon Ill. Above is the establishment of Veolay (Maison Violet), at 29 Boulevard des Ital- iens, Paris, France. Frank M. Prindle & Co., 267 Fifth Avenue, New York, are their sole agents for the United States. SPECIALTIES _— a —~ Se ee ES EEA SO ROES ©

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a LIFEANY & GO. JEWELRY PEARLS SILVERWARE QUALITY PREDOMINATES MAIL INQUIRIES RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION FIFTH AVENUE & 3/2 STREET NEw YORK

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= LE TABAC LOND MAIMEZ QUE MA! (Love ONLY me) BY ThHé i Creators OF MALCISSE noir ( BLACK NArCISSUS ) qu'il adore! caron CarPparaTion 389 Fifth Avenue, New York EE Se ee a VOGUE —/ CAIN | IO rUC DE LA PAIX PATHS | Exprimant la personnalité Expressing the personality he adores! mi VOGUE April 15, 1924 VOGUE is pubiieted: on the Ist and 15th of every month by The Conde Nast Publications, Inc., 19 W. 44th Street, New York. SURBCE TIONS for the United S , Canada, Porto Rico, Hawaii and the Philippines $5.00 a year in aavance. "Entered as second class matter February 16, 19 the Post Office — York, under act of March 3, 1879. Also entered as second class matter at the Post Office at Greenwich, Cosnettionk Vol.No.63,No.8 Whole No. 1237 ea el web bsctons —) nee

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ART eC a2 5 RNS OSA. ORNs “ April 15 BONWIT TELLER &CO. Lhe Specially Shop of Orizinations FIFTH AVENUE AT 38" STREET. NEW YORK. ie o P ———L— v/, Ve J oO \ \ Z e \ \ \ \ \ REPLICAS OF WOMEN’S PARIS TAILLEURS Three Frocks that Depict the Tailored Vogue of Buttons PREMET—Replica of a Premet gown JENNY—Replica of a Jenny gown for PATOU—Adaptation of a Patou for women, in mohair with white pique women, in fine rep with pique gown for women, in bengaline, white collar and cuffs. Black, navy blue, forearm sleeves and boyish collar. crepe silk “petticoat.” Black or navy cocoa or gray. . ». » - 59.00 — Black, navyblueor sand. . 98.00 bluewithwhte, . . . . 78.00

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Fhe FOOT ARISTOCRATIC THERE 1S ONLY ONE VICI KID --- The outstanding name in leather history is Robert H. Foerderer Thirty odd years ago the gen- ius and patience of Robert H. Foerderer revolutionized tan- ning methods. Aptly, Robert H. Foerderer named the leather he pro duced, Vici—‘I conquered.” And wisely he decreed that only one company—Robert H. Foerderer, Inc.—should produce it. Smoothness, pliancy, color— these are the things that present-day footwear fashions demand of leather. And these are exactly the qualities in which Vici excels. No other leather combines all the quali- ties of Vici kid. Ask your shoe dealer to show you current offerings in Vici—the leather that al- ways has been produced exclusively by-Robert H. Foerderer, Inc. ROBERT H. FOERDERER, Inc. PHILADELPHIA Selling Agents: LUCIUS BEEBE & SONS, Boston Selling agencies in all parts of the world VICI kid REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. THERE NEVER HAS BEEN VOGUE VICI kid is man- ufactured solely by Robert H. Foerderer, Inc. ANY OTHER a NN en SII. i aaa ts

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UE ek ere ee tine April 15 iii tii NK A Akiit eA iNceNnMRAR kSRRMieMMK i a ‘i i i 3 a A ee H A a TE Interpreting the latest fashion in versatile models for Spring Mail Shopping literature mailed upon request. : : B. Altman & Co. B FIFTH AVENUE MADISON AVENUE a Thirty-fourth Street NEW YORK Thirty-fifth Street = pil ei i OE EET iiiiiiiit t((=('"i hci a

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oe simplicity is the keynote of this charming Step-In Chemise by Vanity Fair. No buttons or snaps and with the famous ‘‘non-skid” shoulder straps—a joy in its comfort and service. Vanity Fair Silk Underwear is made in four tabrics; ‘*Vanitisilk”, the most remarkable improvement in glove silk ever made; also three plain weaves, ‘‘Vanitisilk,” un- like any other glove silk retains its full size after repeated washings. This remarkable, pure dyed, all silk fabric is woven much closer and smoother than any other glove anity Jair silk made, which means greater strength and less friction, hence longer wear. A trial will prove it the most economical and satisfactory underwear you can buy. Select it by its fascinating, lus- trous stripe and ask for it by name, ‘‘ Vanitisilk”—pro- nounced Vanity Silk. For sucha trial we suggest the Van- ity Fair Step-In Chemise, Style 46013, pictured above. Write for illustrated Booklet C, and nearest dealer. Vanity Fair Silk Mills, Reading, Pa. New York Office, 295 Fifth Avenue SILK UNDERWEAR, AND HOSIERY VOGUE

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SS & NELLA LOCLHAELLUPOALLCGHAAAUPUUCUUOUUPPHAGHVOIII oe meh I ta nl A—Crepe de chine overblouse with V neck, back collar and short sleeves, tinished with narrow piping. Tie with hand embroidered motif ends. In white, tan, Madonna blue, navy, black, Callot rouge, green, $12.74 B—Crepe de chine overblouse with Bobby collar in white, short sleeves. Finished with piped bosom and black silk ribbon fob. Tan, green, dor- celain blue, white, navy, Cal- lot rouge. $8.74 = 2 no says (harming! at these Blouses eo ff» the first impression of dis- tinction is found to be justified upon closer examination. The blouses are unusually well-made with all the deft touches that characterize fine workmanship lavished on lovely fabrics. The newer fashion notes are recorded in these models —the V neck, the fob, the scarf, the jabot and the tab bosom—presenting a varied group for dress or sports wear. The prices are noteworthy—they are less than you would expect to pay for high-grade blouses. C—Crepe de chine overblouse with short sleeves. Graceful scarf with pockets. Mono- gram motif and piping in contrasting color. White, tan, black, Callot rouge, powder blue, navy. $10.74 D—Radium silk slip-over tuck-in with a V neck, back collar and long sleeves. Charm- ingly simple and finished with @ dainty insertion just the right width. White, tan $13.74 F—Fine silk broadcloth shirt with club collar, plain bosom, buttoned tab front and long sleeves. White, tan, powder blue, green. $12.74 E—Satin overblouse with Bobby collar, short sleeves. The frill of georgette is edged with satin, sparkling glass buttons mark the front opening. White, tan, black, navy. $14.74 Style B in sizes 34 to 42 All other models in sizes 34 to 44 RH. 34" ST. & BROADWAY .Y0¢. ho: NEW YORK CITY

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VOGUE

The new Spring styles are simultaneously presented by I. Miller and these leading shops. AKRON, OHIO Wagoner & Marsh “ALBANY, GA. Rosenberg Bros. ) ALBANY, ORE. McDowell Shoe Co. ALLENTOWN, PA. Heinz Co. ALTOONA, PA. Bendheim's ASHEVILLE, N. C. Pollock's ATLANTA, GA. _ Byck Bros. AUSTIN, TEX. Dillingham Shoe Co. BATON ROUGE, LA. Guarantee Shoe Co. . BEAUMONT, TEX. Imperial Shoe Store BELLINGHAM, WASH. J.B. Wahl ¥ BERKELEY, CAL¥F. Garweod's BIRMINGHAM, ALA. Ye Louis Sake Clothing Co. i) BOSTON, MASS. CF. Hovey Co. iS) BRiDGEPORT, CONN. D. M. Read Co. BRISTOL, TENN. H. P. King Co. BUTTE, MONT M. J. Connell Co. BUTTE, MONT. Red Boot Shop BUFFALO, N. Y. Michaels _ CHARLOTTE, N. C. _ Efird’s Dept. Store CHARLESTON, W. VA. May Shoe Co. CHEYENNE, WYO. Wasserman Shoe Co.- CHATTANOOGA, TENN. Walk Over Shoe Co. CINCINNATI, OHIO Smith-Kasson Co. CLARKSDALE, MISS.

KOO — > \ Ye Powers € Co. { CLARKSBURG, W. VA. \ Fashionable Shoe Store (ZB CLEVELAND, OHIO \t Sione Shoe Co. CLINTON, Ia. Trufit Shoe Co. B Cox Bros. COLUMBIA, MO. G. B. Miller Shoe Co. COLUMBUS, OHIO Dunlap Shoe Co. CONNELLSVILLE, PA. Wright-Metzler Co. DALLAS, TEX. Leon Kahn Shoe Co. DANVILLE, ILL. Cavanaugh & Meyer DAVENPORT, IA. E. & W. Ciothing Co. DAYTON, OHIO _ Elder & Johnston Co. DENVER, COL. Fontius Shoe Co. DES MOINES, IA. DeArcy s Boot Shop ~ DETROIT, MICH. Russek's EL DORADO, ARK. J. F. Sample Co. < a

COLORADO SPRINGS, COL

EL PASO, TEX. White House Shoe Dept. EVANSVILLE, IND. Dawson's Shoe Shop FLINT, MICH. Smith Bridgman Co. FRESNO. CALIF. Wonder Shoe Dept. FT. WAYNE, IND. Mathias App's Sons GALVESTON, TEX. Robi. I. Cohen GRAND RAPIDS, MICH, Yager's— 6x Monroe Ave. GREENVILLE, S. C. Pollock's

NEW YORK Wholesale Headquarters One Carlton Avenue Brooklyn, N. Y.

HARRISBURG, PA. W. F. S. Orner HCT SPRINGS, ARK. Ike Kempner ¢ Bros. HOLLYWOOD, CALIF. Hollywood Boot Shop HOUSTON, TEX. Krupp @ Tuffly HUTCHINSON, KANS. O. R. Welch INDIANAPOLIS, IND. H. P. Wasson Co. JACKSONVILLE, FLA, Golden's Bootery JACKSON _ MICH. Triangle Shoe Co. BROOKLYN Retail Headquarters 562 Fifth Avenue I MILLER & SONS CHICAGO New York City

JOPLIN; MO. Newman Mere. Co. JOHNSTOWN, PA. Gardner & Gerheim KALAMAZOO, MICH, _ Bell Shoe Co. KANSAS CITY, MO. Auerbach & Gueitel LANSING, MICH. Arcade Boctery LANSING, MICH. Shubel Co. LAWTON, OKLA. Lawton Mere. Co. LEXINGTON, KY. Wolf Wile Co.

be Na RM aS | pura RT wiles

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ee) ene e L SOS VCS CS OVS US Ca PeQeg| April 15 LINCOLN, NEB. Speier & Simon LITTLE ROCK, ARK. tke Kempner & Bros. LONG BEACH, CALIF. Steward Bros. LOS ANGELES, CALIF. Ville De Paris LOUISVILLE, KY. Byck Bros. MARION, IND. Blumenthal & Co. McKEESPORT, PA, Grand Leader MEDFORD, ORE. The Bootery empha Annguncing the formal present- ation ‘of the exclusive creations of I. Miller for Spring wear, lored and simple Strap variations to accord with the current vogue in costumes. 2° > %e MONROVIA, CALIF. Soully Boot Shop MONROE. LA. Masur Bros. MEMPHIS, TENN. Halle MADISON, WISC. Brown Boot Shop MORGANTOWN, W. VA, Fashionable Shoe Store MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. Dayton Co. - MILWAUKEE, W1SC, Herman Reel MT. VERNON, N. Y. A. J. Rice sizing tal NASHVILLE, TENN. Loveman, Burger & Teitelbaum NEW CASTLE, PA. Davis Shoe Co. NEW ORLEANS, LA. Imperial Shoe Store NOGALES, ARIZ. ThesModern OAKLAND, CALIF. Peters Bros. Shoe Co. OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLA. Harry Kaiz OMAHA, NEB. J.L. Brandeis OXNARD, CALIF. Lehman Bros. The new Spring styles are simultaneously presented by I. Miller and these leading shops. PASADENA, CALIF. Morse & Heckman PALM BEACH, FLA. Anthony Bros. PHILADELPHIA, PA. L Miller Co., 1225 Chestnut St. PHOENLX, ARIZ. Chas. Korrick & Bro. PITTSFIELD, MASS. England Bros. PITTSBURGH, PA. Kaufmann’'s PLAINVIEW, TEX. Carter Houston D. G. Co. QUINCY. ILL. C. B. Miller Shoe Co. RENO, NEV. H. E. Tait READING, PA. Walk Over Boot Shop ROANOKE, VA. Propst Childress Shoe Co. SAVANNAH, GA. Byck Bros. SANTA ANA, CALIF. Watkins Bootery SAN DIEGO, CALIF. Marston's SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF. Frank Werner Co. SAN JOSE, CALIF. Garcia Shoe Co. SANTA BARBARA, CALIF Women's Shoe Shop ST. JOSEPH, MO. Plymouth Clo. Co. ST. LOUIS, MO. Henry Weil’s ST. PAUL, MINN. Husch Bros. SCRANTON, PA. Heinz Store SEATTLE, WASH. Turrell Shoe Co. SHREVEPORT, LA. Phelps Shoe Co. SIOUX CITY, IA. T. S. Martin Co. SOUTH BEND, IND. The Ellswor:h Store SPOKANE, WASH. M.& S. Schulein SPRINGFIELD, MASS. !. Miller Co. SPRINGFIELD, ILL. Riesch Shoe Shop STAMFORD, CONN. L. Spetke €@ Son TACOMA, WASH. Pessemier's Bootery TERRA HAUTE, IND. Cheney's W. O. B.S. TOLEDO. OHIO Hoskin’s Fine Footwear TOLEDO, OHIO La Salle & Koch TOPEKA, KANS. Auerbach € Guettel TULSA, OKLA. Hunt Co. UNIONTOWN, PA. Wright-Metzler Co. WILKES BARRE, PA. MacWilliams Shoe Store WICHITA, KANS. Geo. Innes Co. YOUNGSTOWN, OHIO Lustig's ZANESVILLE. OHIO J. &. McHenry 4. DP) \ Vata) OY x / 83 " MT S$ ~~ ‘ Saw SS aan a8 5 oe Yay ie a SW ANY] SSL) SWS

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10 ann I Mtoenessnt VOGUE for the fashionable woman of moderate means PAUL JONES TUB FROCKS MADE FROM VOGUE'S EXCLUSIVE PATTERN DESIGNS con, yet immediately sensed, is the fine creative thoughtfulness which gives these frocks their in- dividuality. That simplicity of line which charms the eye bodes well for ease in tubbing and pressing, and a long life of beauty. Freshness of linen, cheerfulness of gingham, cool- ness of voile and organdie, in sum- mer mood for sports, house, and afternoon.’ Formerly, such distinc- tion was attainable in simple things only through the services of an exclusive dressmaker. Now you can buy Paul Jones Tub Frocks—at one carefully selected shop in each city. We will gladly tell you the name of the shop, and send our style book, too. MORRIS and COMPANY, Incorporaten, BALTIMORE, MARYLAND The frock on the lefi Voile and organdie! Pictures flitting out of memory ... lilac scented nights... the ripple of low laughter. This maid is happy in her sweetheart frock—imagine the delicious im- pertinence of these ruffled pockets against the dotted brown... Paul Jones did! The frock in the center This white linen—how acquiescent to the day’s bright charm! Paul Jones conceived the possi- bilities of stripes, in cool lavender and brown .. . persuasive, certainly, to the errant eye! Paul Jones Vogue Pattern Models, $8.50 to $17.50 Each model in several colors The frock on the right Something must be done with buttons. Paul Jones put two rows of diminutive pearl in the most unexpected place on this peach-colored crepe. A pearl clasp on the saucy belt—braid black and white—a roll collar of white poplin— what happy circumstances! ee en nS eee

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UE April 15 11 a ih SAP” ram aay A style creation exclusively Van Raalte No arricte of women’s wear can be really nice, unless it has that guality worth, which is at once the essence of beauty and the essential of good service. Insist on Silk Gloves by Van Raalte .... because you love nice things VAN RAALTE Silk Gloves MADE BY THE MAKERS OF VAN RAALTE SILK STOCKINGS, GLOVE SILK UNDERWEAR AND VEILS

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CTheres A A gay touch of Spring is given this straight line dress in navy crepe de chine by bits of novel em- broidery in Russian cross stitch down the front of waist, and around bottom of the apron. Narrow cross stitching in the same colors enlivehs the sleeves, neck, and sides of waistline. Price, $39.75. B The ideal of youthful slenderness insisted upon in today’s styles is effectively achieved in this win- some frock of gray crepe de chine. A filmy, lace-like yoke, deeply embroidered, and pockets in the same fashion, lend a further note of newness to this smart dress. Price, $49.75. & Here we see the much favored apron effect—tiered—in a dress of navy crepe de chine, such as one can well wear all through the season. The gray georgette vestee, with its dainty tucks, the graceful double collar, and perky bow give this frock an informal air which belies the prim little buttons all in a row down the back. Price, $45.00. D This black crepe de chine frock, parting down the front to reveal a panel of white, is a very smart expression of the now-so-popular vogue of white and black. This motif is stressed also in the em- broidery of white silk and wool and in the soft wool stitching outlining the entire dress. Price, $45.00. E A hint of Mah Jongg and the Oriental is seen in this very un- usual navy crepe de chine cre- ation elaborately embroidered in gray. The youthfulness of lines is accented, too, by the gracefully tiered skirt—a very appropriate costume for all-sea- son wear. Price, $35.00. F Padded rolls of King’s blue at the neck, sleeves, and atop the pock- ets, and embroidery of crystal blue beads, give to this frock of navy crepe de chine a note of definite individuality. It conveys also a suggestion of the fuller skirt which Paris tells us is on the way. Price, $45.00. VOGUE an Easter dress for you among these new Jrocks by | The smart styles which Society is wear- ing for its Mah Jongg fetes; the intri- guing frocks which shortly will be promenading in Fifth Avenue’s famous Easter parade, and rolling along the Boardwalk —these are what Peggy Paige is bringing to you, April 5th to 20th, in these swagger new frocks. They represent La Mode in her most authoritative guise—boyishly slender in silhouette, they accentuate that youth- fulness so much sought, and so irresisti- ble in the woman of today. But these dresses—while in thorough accord with Fashion’s dictates for Easter—are more than “just for a day” —they will serve your needs all through the season. No need, then, to wonder what to wear—among these frocks is one that’s sure to suit your fancy. Remember the dates—April 5th to 20th—in any of the cities listed. If, perchance, your city is not among them, write and the name of the store nearest you will bepromptly forwarded. More than a thousand other leading stores carry Peggy Paige dresses. ON DISPLAY IN YOUR FAVORITE SHOP

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April 15 13 Where you may buy these Peggy Paige Dresses yt |. ae Albuquerque, N. Mex.. Algona, Ia......... Amarillo, Tex. Americus, Ga.. Anderson, S. C. Ardmore, Okla.. Athens, Ga Auburn, N. Augusta, Ga... Austin, Tex..... Ashland, Ky... Appalachia, V. Anderson, Ind... Austin, Minn.... Alexandria, Va.. Burley, Idaho... Baton Rouge, La Bethlehem, Pa..... Beckley, W. V: Billings, Mont.. Batesville, Ark. Minter Dry Goods Co. National Garment Co, The Goeders Co. .....Ladies Shop ... Pinkston Co. ..Efird's Westheimer & Daube ,. Fashion Shop ..Fowler Henderson Co, ..Goldberg's Adam Pome Co. Cc. % mH A The Leader .Burley enpoomaiie Co. . Sommer'’s The Gaines Shop Sisler-Peck Co. The D. J. Cole Co. ..Barnett Bros. » Beaumont, Tex... Brunswick, Ga. Bristol, Tenn.... Bowling Green, . Zelmenovitz 3ryan, Tex.. .... ...Webb Bros. Bradentown, Fla ...Montgomery Roberts Co. 3urlington, N.C ..Efird’s Belliagham, Wash. ...Mallahan’s Bay City, Mich...... ..H. G. Wendland & Co. Bartles ville, ria” ..W. C. Hig he oO. Brainerd, Minn... Geo. F. Murph ~-White House tee Goods Co, Laurensburg, N. C.......... Efird’s Lenoir, N. ; Efird’s Lexington, N.C Efird’s Efird’ he Lincolnton, N. N > -C Watt & Shand H. J. Shenk Hornstein’s Carpenter's 1. Lauterstein .C. M. Guggenheimer, Inc. .....Hager’s Fashion Shop 5S. A. Losh Sons & Kopp .... Gerard & Wright : J. F. Stuckey Co. ‘ E. Brown ; “Wallies Wilson Co. L. Hammel Dry Goods Co. ‘ D. G. Co. .Jarrard’s .The Warner & Edwards Co. ..S. Westheimer ..D. K. Lundberg & Co. ae mS Crozier rE K. Lundberg & Co. = Minot Cloak & Suit Co. ; Jay o. = a Oppenheimer ...Neiman’s Newcastle, Pa. Newbern, N. C. ..Beiley Karpf Gommerce. Tex . E. Maloney New Kensington, Pa......W. H. Wainwright Corbin, K Robert Ros Nevada, Mo........ «Harry C. Moore Dry Goods Co, Caruthersvii New York Store(Lee Wolff) Norman, Okla... McCall Co. Centralia, Iil.. Clarksburg, W. Clarksdale, Miss. Noblesville, Ind Opelika, Ala. . Orville, Ohio : LA” Brock Co. fenry Menkov & Co. oseph Perlstei in Corning, N. The Resa te Orlando, Fla Columbus, Ga.. The Emporium Ottawa, Ill... T. Lucey & Bros Concord, N. Efird’s Ogden, Utah.................... Ww. i. Wright & ‘Sons Co. Cherryville, N.C. Efird's ulaski, Va. Mark C. Bane Charlotte, N. C.. Efird’s Painesville, Ohio.. ....Gail G. Grant Co. Caldwell, Ohio... Parkersburg, W. Va. Dils Bros. Central City, Ky... Perth Amboy, N. J Rappe’s Charleston, W. Va. Paducah, Ky. J, A. Rudy & Sons Calumet, Mich....... Philippi, W. Va. The Crim Co. Clay City, asa. Portsmouth, Va .. The Famous Columbia, Pa...... Portland, Me... Smiley Pawhuska, Okla Princeton, W. Va Phoenix, Ariz. ? Point Pleasant, W. Va. Port ag Tex. ; Plainfield, N The Voune Shop Dugan Clothing Co. Korrick’s Dry Goods Co. J. C. Franklin Co. Goldberg's — Bros. Cheyenne, Wyo...... Chattanooga, Tenn.. DuBois, P Dennison, Tex.. Dyersburg, Tenn DuQuoin, Il Deland, Fila... Pontiac, Mich... .....-ehman Lister Co. Daytona, Fla. Roanoke, Va. .. Spigel-Levin Co. Duncan, Okla... Robersonville, eC. J. H. Roberson Durant, Okla............. Rockhill, S. ..A. Friedheim & Bros. East Liverpoo 2, Russellville, ae Henry B. Edwards Elizabeth, "City, Rocky Mount, N. C...... The Fashion Shop Elw City, Raton, N. Mex..... Fordyce The Schwartz Co. sscndpeanssen A. J. Joseph Co ; Gold Mine Der ‘Goods Co. .Kennerly & Mitchell .....Lawson & Lawson ...Griffin Bros. ...Bessye Caviness m. Doolin Redfield, S. D..... Somerset, 4 Seymour, Ind... Salisbury, Md..... Shelbyville, Ky. Sanford, N. C Siler City, N. C St. Albans, Vt. El Dorado, Kens aia Eureka, Kans...... ... Mi Fairmont, W. E. C. Jones Shop (Jones’ Dress Shop) Fort Smith, Ark.............. The Hunt Dry Goods Co. Fort Collins, Colo.. ...Edmund's Dry Goods Co. Forest City, N. C ...Efird’s Florence, S. C ..Gibbs Bros. Fulton, Ky............ ... Franklin's Staunton, Va... ... The Banner Store, Inc. Fort Scott, Kans... ...W. J. Calhoun Dry Goods Co, Spartanburg, S. C.. ee ald’s Ladies Dept. Store Fayetteville, Tenn. Ox « A. Jarvis Spencer, la. ’ ones Frankfort, Ky........ S. Farmer & Son Sherman, Tex Marks Bros. Floralla, Aie:....... ~~ Shop Springfield, Mo... The Heer Stores Co. Fayetteviile, +k C..........Fleishmann Bros. Sharon, Pa.......................W. W. Moore Co. Grafton, W. Va...... .Jolliffe’s Shelby, N Ca ...Efird’s Grand Forks, N. D .R. Salisbury, N. C... Efird’s > aren Ga ee a an, S ; i ay ng c astonia, Shenandoa de a. gua arrah oO. Where you may buy these Greer, S. C... Sutton, W. ..Mrs. Meret Hardman pr peace Miss. as res egy idaiio. Beigenacs y onedey as _ “ne M alveston, Tex. : Tucson, Ariz... seceeeee Albert ola e ‘0. Peggy Paige Dresses Grand Junction, ‘Colo... J. Moyer Tullahoma, Tenn ‘ .Wiison & Son Holyoke, Mass................ Sheehan Shop ‘Tasers WH. C......0..0500: Rosenbloom Levy Co. Hawkinsville, Ga... ...The Boston Store, Inc. Tazewell, Va......... .... Jeff Ward Brooklyn, N. Y Harrisonburg, Va... ...B. Ney & Sons Thorndale, Tex... ... Thorndale Mercantile Co. Cleveland, Ohio. .The May Company Herkimer, a ..H. G. Munger Thermopolis, Wyo. ..Selback Duda Co. St. Louis, Mo... Thos. W. Garland, Inc. Hampton, Va... ...M. J. Goldstein Tampa, Fla.. Maas Bros. Buffalo, N. Y...... . Adam, Meldrum & Anderson Hornell, ¥.. ... Tuttle Rockwell Co. Talladaga, Ala. Samuel & Finlay Mercantile Co Milwaukee, Wis. ‘Breithaupt’ s mean La Brandt Bros. Texarkana, Tex O'Dwyers Fashion Shop Washington, D. C... ..Mayer Bros. & Co. ugo, a. Stevens-Lambeth Co. Terrell, Tex... _The McCord Co. Newark, N. ..Hahne Co. Helena, Ark John J. Hyman Taylor, Tex. ..T. W. Marse & Co. Kansas City, Mo.. John Taylor Dry Goods Co. Huntington, Deardorff-Sisler Co. Topeka, Kans.. ...Crosby Bros. Columbus, Ohio... The Dunn-Taft Co. Hcoughton, Mich. Carpenter’s Uniontown, Pa.............. Wright-Metzler Co. Ohio.......... ..The Wadsworth Co. Havre, Mont. ..F. A. Buttrey Co. A Sa Wilburn Bros. Frohsin’s Louis Saks a, nee Clothing Co. Miller & Rhoad The John Gerber Company ..Wm. Reed & Sons Co. Huntingdon, Pa : ... Setzer & Russell Hickory, N. C.. Ironton, Ohio Idabel, Okla... Union City, Tenn......... Morgan-Verhine Co. Vinita, Okla.....................Wright Mercantile Co. Virginia, Minn. B. Bankman Winston-Salem, N. C. Montaldo’s Wilmington, N. C. tfird’s » 2 Leon D. Welch Watertown, N. Williamsport, Pa... Brozman’s Woman Shop Washington, Pa. The Caldwell Store axahachie, Tex............Cheeves Bros. & Co Waterloo, Ia....... veseeeeess-Paul Davis Dry Goods Co. Warren, Pa... ; ie tzger-Wright Company Weimar, Tex Lauterstein & Son Wellsville, N. : ‘Rock well Bros. & Co. naa py w. Va. Sohn's Store 'e., ...Women’s Shop Wilson, ines The H. Weber Sons & Co. ...Stevens-Lambeth Co. ..A. J. Pritchard (Style Shop) ...Montaldo’s ..The Hart & Houston Store ...Geo. K. Kline ..W. L. Goodnow ..K. R. Tunstall ..The J. Fred Johnson Co. ...O’Shea’s ..Gish Hunter Mercantile Co. Loraine Coal & Dock Co. Alice M. Ridley Independence, Kans. Johnson City, Tenn.. Johnstown, Pa. ..... Keene, N. H Kinston, N. C... Kingsport, Tenn. Laconia, N. Laramie, Wyo... Larado, W. Va : Lewiston, BBN hecscscccxsace The Siegel Co. ...Quackenbush Co. - es Co. ..Lissner’ The Cain Sloan Company Ames & Brownley, Inc. .The Vanity Fair Shop Ernest Sherman & Co., Inc. Tames. Ohio...... DRESSES FASHIONED BY Pariseau’s nhs ..B. H. Levy Bro. & Co. Tampa, Fla Ds irae ies culguiiungueestentoresekia ‘Maas Bros. Ns sassvanoves sncenestonstone 1 Liberty House Hamilton, Canada.. e G. W. Robinson Co, fe] Tampico, ‘Mexico. ions E. Remsen Ottawa, Canada. ..A J. Freiman, Ltd. APRIL 5th to 20th New York

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VOGUE 14 GLOBE TAILOR MADE SUMMERWEAR the ideal undergarment for smart swmmer frocks @) ‘4 PLOLLO As sheer and delicate as fine silk hosiery is this completely closed suit of elastic Zepherized knitted fabric. Carefuliy hand tailored to allow perfect freedom of movement, and exquisitely finished in every detail © WYWWWWWW WWW When the mode isn't white this summer it dashes \ into print. Satin, so very good for the slim-lined & frock, makes the back of this dress, and printed georgette in Paisley design makes the front. Natu- 3 rally one must be slender for such a clinging mode . .. but every woman aims to be slenderness ro) itself in these days, whether she’s printed or_plain For the bewitchingly airy frock that seems to resent a coarse or bulky underdress, there is now a Globe creation especially designed to befit its dainty charm. At the better stores you may see for yourself, far better than mere words can tell, just why Globe SummerWear is so delightfully cool and comfortable—so perfectly ideal to wear beneath your summer gowns. GLOBE KNITTING WORKS GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN ROBISCHON & PECKHAM NEW YORK CHICAGO SY A light, airy garment made of finest batistes, both plain and figured, in all the lovely colors that fashion decrees for summer wear. Cut gener- ously full for perfect comfort, and so carefully tailored that it fits smoothly without a trace of bulkiness, GLOBE SUMMERW EAR te aa Tecan

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April 15 For the first time in America the real debutante type in millinery Those little details you have perhaps always looked for—never before embodied in styles developed especially for the young girl! The hat that is comfortable with bobbed hair—head sizes that are snug and right, hats that are smart but simple—these are what this new idea in millinery now puts at your disposal. IN Paris for the past few years there has been a new development in mil- linery. Jeanne Lanvin of the Faubourg St. Honoré started it. Eliane in the Rue de la Paix, Rose Descat on the Rue Royale—these and several others have taken up the idea. Hats for older women there had always been, yet no one had studied and designed for the debutante alone. Do you remember the cloche of a year ago, the tricorne of the season just past ? Their adaptations for the needs of mademoiselle— for your needs— were all made originally at the hands of these master designers. And now to America are brought the newest creations of Eliane, Rose Descat, Jeanne Lanvin, and the other leading French designers of hats for the debu- tante. Hats essentially French, yet never extreme, always in good taste, designed to meet the needs of the young women of America—the needs that bobbed hair and outdoor life have created. These exquisite models, heretofore obtainable op %, he Dihactarts in New York and Paris only, are now offered to you—right in your own City. In your city there is only one store carrying these debutante hats To make it possible for the young women of America to wear this Spring the actual hats that the smart jeune fille is wearing today in Paris, one store in your city has been appointed exclusive representative for hats developed along these newlines. Here you will find from week to week the newest things, not the most extreme or expensive, hats designed especially for you, the head sizes just right—the correct thing in styles and colors for afternoon, country club and evening wear. Which of this year’s colors should you wear ? Then there is the matter of colors, always a perplexing one for the smartly dressed woman. Every season bringsnew colors, some ot them merely new shades —others entirely new color creations. PATRICIAN 7 Wes os s which of t auty i Name Sante cial eee City Each of these the French designers have intended for a particular type of beauty. Are you a blonde? But there are five distinct types of blondes. For each type there are certain colors that are possible—others that would mar an otherwise perfect costume. Are you a brunette? But colors pos- sible for the pale brunette might clash horribly with the dark-skinned Spanish type of beauty. This season’s Patrician hats in colors and shades follow very closely the nu- ances of color that the master design- ers of Paris have established this year as the correct thing for the debutante. To guide you in your selection, we have ptepared a charming little booklet to tell you which of the new shades are possible for your type of beauty. Send in the coupon at once, and we will gladly mail this attractive booklet free. Do not buy your Spring hat un- til you see what the young women of your age in Paris—the best-dressed, perhaps, in all the world—are wearing. Nortel

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16 VOGUE The Intercoliegiate Sports Curnwwat, an annual event at Franklin Field, University of Pennsylvania The Penn A folder giving full directions for knitting the Penn Slipover mav be obtained without cost at counters where Columbia Yarns are sold. ‘7HAT woman ever had too many sweaters? Women who know how to use color to best advantage select most carefully the yarns for their hand-knitted sweaters. In Columbia Yarns they find all the shades that Fashion favors and their own favorite colors—those that best express their individualities. In every Columbia color there is a beauty that goes deeper than the color itself— to the yarn quality which has made Columbia Yarns famous for more than half a century. Wma. H. HorstTMANN CoMPANY Established 1816 oa gle x " PHILADELPHIA

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CG et LAS PADRE Wm we TP ok CAMMEYER 077 ~Tifth Avenue New York bxchisive otwear for CHomen ap

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—SSSWY) AWAY} A sweater timed just a bit in advance of the fashion! Ma foi! Is it ahead of the fashion one must be today? “But surely,”’says Thomé, master de- signer of sweaters for Madame and Ma- demoiselle of the cosmopolitan world. “To be zn the fashion—that would be expected. To be a half step in advance —there lies prestige. “Enticement, Mademoiselle—gayety, discretion, allurement—surely in a sweater one may find them. “But the chic lines, the little subtle- ties of design, the coleurs in blend must be ever so cosmopolitan. And the tout ensemble that of the Rue de la Paix. “Behold my masterpiece—the Paris- ienne.” Straight from Paris come cables from our foreign representatives with style news six months ahead of American GREAT WESTERN KNITTING COMPANY, 303 Fifth Ave,, New York Factory: Milwaukee, Wis. KNIT RIGHT , reer THE PARIS MODEL SWEATER sweater models. This is the nucleus around which Thomé works, translating these style predictions into ahead-of- the-fashion Parisian sweaters for the well- dressed “‘Americaine.”’ The result? Such sweaters as the Par- isienne, with the gay charm to attract— the tantalizing simplicity to hold the admiration m all. MANY PARISIENNE MODELS The illustrations show you the type of the stunning Parisienne models you will see at your favorite store. Leading mer- chants everywhere are proud to offer the Parisienne. Should you, however, need guid- ance, drop us a line. By return mail we will direct you to the store where the best assortment may be seen. ie

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EERO ee ae gee a Se « eee Pie ieee hae Bees HART SCHAFFNER & MARX COATS FOR WOMEN FOR SPRING HERE are rare and exclusive fabrics from the world’s greatest looms ‘The weavers have gone to the famous museums for inspiration Beautiful Bombay and Sanskrit traceries; artistic foreign motifs; quaint crochet and cross stitch weaves, hopsack and homespuns The colors creep into patterns 7 droll plaids, chic chequers, new stripes in tufted, curled and nubbed effects, classic screened designs and marble blends withall the rich soft tones predominating Manyareairily furred The lines fall in slim, straight silhouettes; in new three-quarter length coats; in colorful sport coats, motor coats, afternoon and evening coats; for every need a woman has It’s a remarkable showing You'll find exactly the coat you like Write for a Style Book» Chicago or New York Copyright, 1924, Hart Schaffner & Marx ae RE Se

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ss » 2 eS Made in One af “A Perfect Match sf Uniform Grade Only 1. Newest shades, always. HUMMING Bird Pure Silk Hose to match your smart new 2. Pure thread silk body. 5 3. Free from heavy and light sult and pumps. places. ‘ae ee Humming Bird Pure Silk Hose to blend with your dainty Spring Se enemnent for frock and sandals, or to present acharming contrast—as you will. 6. Reinforced heels and toes. : . ; : 7. Tops, elasticlisle, doubled. Silvery grays that shimmer like stray moon-beams, tempting a een teagy beiges and nudes in many tones. Thirty glorious shades that 10. Snug-fitting ankles and feet hold their colors as perfectly as Humming Bird Hose hold 11. Knit, not stretched to size. 12. Fit is permanent. 13. All colors fadeless. c . i Knit in three styles to fit By concentrating on one single grade, we can offer you this won- Rootes, derfully fine stocking at a very moderate price. Ask your Read “The Story of a Pair of Silk merchant. Stockings.” Not advertising material but a real text book used in many DAVENPORT HOSIERY MILLS, Chattanooga, Tennessee schools. Free copy on request. New York Office: 200 Fifth Avenue Aumming Bird — PURE SILK. HOSIERY WEARS LONGER their trim fit. VOGUE —

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Fayetteville, N. C, », Ala. Fort Collins, Colo. Port Worth, Texas Geneva, N. Y. : Greensboro, N. C. = Grand Rapids, Mich. The M. O'Neil Co. Waldman Bros. Rosenthal D. G. Co. Sisson Bros., Welden Co. Burger-Phillips Co. The H. P. King Co. Fred’k Loeser & Co. Adam Meldrum & Anderson Co. Hennessy's Buckner,RagsdaleClo.& D.G.Co, Coyle G. B. Cabaniss & Co. Miller Bros. Co. Marshall Field & Co. Story & Brandel The Wm. Taylor Son & Co. Wilbur Cl. & St. Co. J. A. Kirven Co. Pb He 4 Preys é & e g B The Hickey-Kane Co., Inc. Friedman Spring D. G. Co. Cabaniss, Inc. 205i—Crepe Roma over flesh silk lining with panels of margot lace. In black, navy, cocoa. Sizes 36 to 44. in. 2050—Crepe Roma with pleated tunic and bodice. The yoke and belt are of handmade piping. In black, navy, co- coa, french blue, grey. Sizes 36 to 44. FRANKLIN SIMONECO. in New York A. E. Troutman Co. Cabaniss Gardner Co. F. Goodman D. G. Co. Strickland Crouch Co. The Famous Herzog Dress Shop The F. Johnson Co. Erlick Bros. Albert Mendel & Co. Foley Bros. D. G. Co. S. S. Thompson Rothschild Bros. Downing Locke Co. Schwartz Bros. J. Grossman J. R. Jones Sons & Co. Berkson Bros. Sullivan & Auwerda Kingsport Stores, Inc. Anderson, Dulin & Varnell Donnelly's Callaways Dept. Store Chas. B. Blakely & Co, Bratton-Morris Co. Magee’s PRINCESS PAT DRESSMAKERS Lanvin green. 2049—Pleated Crepe Roma, with els of point Bouvaine lace. black, navy, cocoa, izes 36 to 44. FREDERICK LOESERCO. DRESSES a in Brooklyn Los Angeles, Cal. A. Hamburger & Sons, Inc. Louisville, Ky. Beston & Langen Lynchburg, Va. C. M. Guggenheim, Inc. Lyons, N. Y. The Hartman Style Shop Marion, Ind. Blumenthal & Co. Marion, Va. Collins Bros. Mason City, Ia. Manley Bros. Co. McAlester, Okla. Bell's McCook, Neb. H. C. Clapp McKeesport, Pa. J. D. O'Neil Co. Memphis, Tenn. J. Summerfield Miami, Fla Burdine & Quarterman Middlesboro, Ky. Harry E. Verran Co. Monroe, La. Bella J. Scherck Montgomery, Ala. Morris-Byars Co. Mount Vernon, O. The J. S. Ringwalt Co. Nashville, Tenn. Castner Knott New Brunswick, N. J. P. J. Young D. G. Co. New Castle, Pa. Brown & Hamilton New Haven, Conn. Herzog Dress Shop New Kensington, Pa. Sil ‘s New Orleans, La. L. Feibleman & Co., Inc. New York City, N. Y. Franklin Simon Co. Oakland, Cal. Taft & Pennoyer Co. Ocala, Fla. Rheinauver Co. Ogdensburg, N. Y. Oklahoma City, Okla. Omaha, Neb. Pasadena, Cal. Philadelphia, Pa. Pine Bluff, Ark. Pittsburg, Kansas Pittsburgh, Pa. Pontiac, Mich. Port Huron, Mich. Portland, Oregon Pulaski, Va. Richmond, Va. Riverside, Cal. Rockford, Ill. Rochester, N. Y. Rome, Ga. St. Louis, Mo. St. Paul, Minn. Salisbury, Md. San Francisco, Cal. San Diego, Cal. Santa Barbara, Cal. Savannah, Ga. Scranton, Pa. Spokane, Wash. Springfield, Ill. Springfield, Mass. Springfield, Ohio Sterling, Ill. Susquehanna, Pa. Syracuse, N. Y Tampa, Fla. Terre Haute, Ind. Torrington, Conn. Venice, Cal. Vicksburg, Miss. Washington, D. C. Watertown, So. Dak. Westerly, R. I. eo Wilkes-Barre, Pa. Wilmington, Del. Winston-Salem, N. C. Yonkers, N. Y. York, Pa. Youngstown, Ohio Zanesville, Ohio KK ne 3 Nathan Franks Sons Kerr D. G. Co. Burgess, Nash Co. Tooker Jordan Co. Strawbridge & Clothier Isaac Dreyfus Co. Famous D. G. & Shoe Co. Frank & Seder Robertson's Ready-to-wear Shop Rosenthal-Winkelman Co. Meier & Frank Co. M. C. Bane, Inc. Kaufmann & Co. G. Rouse & Co. H. L. Wortham: Co. E. W. Edwards & Son J. Kuttner & Co, T. W. Garland Husch Bros. R. E. Powell & Co. O'Connor, Moffatt & Co. Blumberg-Schoenbrun Trenwith's Leopold Adier Scranton D. G. Co. MacDougal Southwick Co. Aug. W. Smith Co. The Crescent T. Thayer & Co. The Woman's Shop Tucker-Luibel Co. Wyne Deaver D. G. Co, Eisman & Hersch S. Burdick & Sons Maas Bros. Penrose Parlors Scherer‘s Vandever D. G, Co. A. Porets Sada Smart Shop The Style Shop Woodward &*Lothrop Paulis Dry Goods Co. The P. H. Opie Co. Fowler, Dick & Walker Schwartz Bros. Co. Anchor Stores Co. J. Williamson S. Grumbacker & Son G. M. McKelvey & Co. H. H. Sturtevant 501 SEVENTH AVE (Cor..37 “ST, NEW YORK.

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VOGUE ‘Washable Silks (Ghat Really (ash! NEVER before have there been such silks ---silks that really and truly hold their colors no matter how often they go to the laundry. Washable silks designed especially for the American woman, and suitable for practically every dress purpose. Washable silks that delight the eye with their wonderful diversity of de- signs and weaves and colors - -- all ex- quisite, all new. Is it any wonder that these Empire Washable Silks have leaped into vogue so triumphantly? When you visit a silk-counter ask to be shown Zephyrspun, Mellow- spun, Spuntex and other Washable Empire Silks. | Whether they be plaids or checks, stripes or solid-tones, remember that their rich, yarn-dyed colors will never fade or run. An interesting portfolio New Uses for Washable Silks will be sent free if you address our Dept. F. The illustration shows a smart Street costume of Striped Melowspun, with a Straight gathered capelet. An attrative Bowright parasol of Mellowspun, with the new Erinoid handle, completes the coftume. VOGUE ROYAL PATTERNS Frock: 7533 Cape: 7539 Ompire Loomcraft : : 2 2 , ‘Washable Silks | GS EMPIRE SILK COMPANY 315 Fourth Avenue -New York

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They promote easy lacing, retain their original finish indefinitely, and actually outwear the shoe, Diawond Brand ( Visible) Fast Color Eyelets have genuine celluloid tops that never lose their color. Visible eyelets on the footwear of the woman of fashion manifest the care which she bestows on every detail of her wardrobe. Ask for shoes with visible eyelets!

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UNITED FAST COLOR EYELET COMPANY Manufacturers of DIAMOND BRAND (VISIBLE) FAST COLOR EYELETS

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TODHUNTER AI4MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK From A MOSSE TROUSSEAU | A MOSSE Creation— MOS SE | Sheet & Pillow case of finest INCORPORATED | | | eet ceegieetiee Belgian Linen with, insertion 7350 FIFTHAVE {i AN ERNS of real Point de Paris NEW YORK.NY. | ——4 Illustrated booklet upon request Nn FRENCH SILK STOCKINGS ir new shades that are a revelatiorr of beauty ano aid Cc HABIT MAKER Announces a new Department Sas he. Ready-to-Wear RIDING HABITS 4 1d Accessories g an ccessorie | wea for 7) Girls and Young Ladies $35.00 and up Samples and meas- urement blanks upon request 73 W. 47th St. Nardi Building New York Peaux Marbres.' ¥ \ sy Short sport coat of ‘ \ marbled leather with \ | Batik design. | Monkey " fur on collar and sleeves. \. i ee: Hat t h- ’ ys oy WY New York G Zt G ws GRACEFUL | hy | CLEVERLY de- | | signed goring it | pump. The elastic is hidden by dainty strips : of leather which forma pretty design over the instep. stn htt tllatat dates tllatat, ellalas vl Send for illustrated brochure mT a é. 4 DISTINCTION ly 57 ™ STREET it | AEN I OP OPP OPP rr af - PrP PS PF \ Sf nee ee ct tte F lways Something New ewf = She Steps fi With Spring! * —In a perky little bloomer dress whose every .” line means free- * dom and dainti- © —_ School r Play. Blue. rato Lavender and Orange Gingham. Col- lar and Cuffs of Imported White years $7.50 Post Paid PS Tots Fogger 534 Fifth, Avenue po of, | ae Seer Original Hats. —— — ud Frocks Ages oto to ‘Ye. 7\S a ta ES ee 3 SEE “ = ~ =||@ = ~ made to order ~ from three years old to the debutante age. Miss Stiekney 17 West 45° ~NEW YORIC = .F. Bott ) «|| “a = Silver Handled Dish... .g42.00 Pitcher Spoon... . 7.50 ag ida Y HS a 9 ger wool % Silver Tax si adunbealhe feature to be considered in the selection of a gift is the as- sured and enduring satisfac- tion it affords the recipient. THE SOCIETY OF ARTS & CRAFTS 9 Park St. 7 W. 56th St. Boston New York — [O) ee Made of finest pure silk and knitted to shape, therefore clings to the ankle no matter how oftenlaundered—F rom $2 to 7.50 Special Style I Superfine quality equal i in style to best French hose—far superior as to wear and endurance. Narrow open worked clock and sendle foot of double silk. Reduced from $7-50 to 5.50 Special Style IT Same as Style I with- out clock. The per- fect stocking for even- ing wear. Reduced e from $6 to 4 an

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April 15 Y | The SHOPS OF VOGUE How Seldom do fashion and convenience find themselves companions! The coiffures originated by Manuel give you the perfect mode and also make your hair- dressing incomparably simple to achieve. The same perfectly natural it results are attained either with t a transformation or the new iY “Moderne” Wig which covers iM your own hair completely. ho be Hair Goods t Exclusively t y ‘ Jedi Posep_By Lots WILSON Illustrated Booklet sent without obligation. The nN Hl cas Wee Chart assure , perfect fi NEW YORK the der b l, absolute matc n when you order 4 aa ui 29 East 48" Street it | A a MAIDS’ NURSES UNIFORM — oe te cg A za 19 ba bP biecs Cae Lae NANA Childrens Clothes LIMITED Smart and Trim for the q Tailored Mode § | in Tan Bark Suede with Kid Trimming to match—Patent Leather with White Kid Piping, and all White Kid. $18.50 Patent Leather with Alligator Trim- ming. $21.00 Buckles extra. This model can be worn with or without Buckles SHOE SALON 24 EAST 66 s58 Madison Ave |} “Ne rk Black Satin, Patent Leather, Brown Satin HANAN SHOES HREE things make them a notably desirable posses- sion above the rank-and-file of Shoes—the pride of owning them, the comfort of wearing them, f% the economy of buying them. HANAN & SON 411 FIFTH AVENUE 516 FIFTH AVENUE 634 FIFTH AVENUE 718 FIFTH AVENUE And Seven Other New York Shops Other Dean Specialties Catering Birthday Cakes Cakes and Candies Week-End Boxes Bon Voyage Boxes with fashionable weddings. Packed in boxes, richly marked with a monogram. | The bride’s cake beautifully orna- mented and containing unique favors, special table decorations, place favors, place cards, etc. Price list on request. Full Catering Service within reason- able distance of New York. 628 Fifth Avenue sand WEDDING CAKE INCE 1839, Dean’s Wedding Cake has been prominently identified New York Established 85 years

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24 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU VOGUE Se pend this spring in paradise~ HAWAII Spring-time in exotic Ha- waii—a dream of alluring South Sea beauty —invites your en- joyment and is easily within reach. For as little as $300 to $400 and three to four weeks’ time you can make the delightful voyage over calm seas from any one of four Pacific ports tothose fascinating islands. In April, May, June and July you'll find the flowers at their best; giant trees gorgeous- ly abloom—vines, creepers and shrubs blazing with color—lus- cious tropic fruits ripening — breezes that are never too cool, never too warm. Revel in surf-riding and moonlight swimming at Waikiki; in golfing over sev- eral good courses; tennis; motoring on all islands; climbing cool, rugged, wood- ed mountains — or in any outdoor pas- time you fancy. See Kilauea Volcano’s fiery crater, safe and easily accessible, in Hawaii National Park. Total cost mentioned above includes first-class, round-trip accommodations on an ocean liner for the five- to eight- day voyage from San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle or Vancouver, B. C., and all hotel and sightseeing expense. Good hotels and inter-island cruising facilities. With all its South Sea romance Hawaii is a part of the United States with the same laws, language, customs, conve- niences, An ideal land in which to own a home and spend at least part of every year. Go now to your nearest travel agency and arrange for the trip, or fill, clip and mail the coupon below. HAWAII TOURIST BUREAU 596 Monadnock Building, San Francisco, or 876 Fort Street, Honolulu, Hawaii, U. S. A. Send me your new free illustrated booklet on HA- WAII; also latest issue of Tourfax, containing data on special trips, hotel rates, etc. NAME STREET — ” mie 7 P . Ld ™ ee s Chef of the “France” THESE SERVICES: New York Plymouth Havre Express de Luxe Liners PARIS FRANCE LAFAYETTE ae New York Havre Paris One-Cabin Steamers DE GRASSE LA SAVOIE CHICAGO SUFFREN ROCHAMBEAU ae New York Vigo Bordeaux LA BOURDONNAIS ROUSSILLON ee New Orleans Havre Paris DE LA SALLE NIAGARA te North African Motor Tours The Ambassador A name which means hotel perfection—Ambassador The Ambassador Hotels System THE AMBASSADOR, New York THE AMBASSADOR, Atlantic City THE AMBASSADOR, Los Angeles THE ALEXANDRIA, Los Angeles BOSTON HOTEL VENDOME CBoston CommonweattH Ave at DartTmouTu St. ELIGHTFULLY SITUATED IN THE 6BACK BAY DISTRICT. QUICKLY ACCESSIBLE TO THEATRES, SHOPS AND POINTS OF INTEREST «+ + CH.GREENLEAF Co, Props. main dining salon. “FRANCE” Returns eae funnels—red with black tops. Nose in a wave off Sandy Hook, racing to pier fifty-seven. Decks gay and the tri-color flying. If the Statue of Liberty were an emotional person, she’d dip her torch . . . the ‘‘France”’ is coming back! She’s been away for the winter. Getting new oil-burning engines to add to her speed. Getting a few clothes, like any other visitor to Paris. But she’s kept her type, like the chic Parisienne she is. She isn’t just a boat. Any more than Newport is justa town, or the Knick- erbocker Club is a hotel. She has somehow evolved a soul—a person- ality that attracts just those people with whom one wants to pass six daysatsea. People who judge a boat by hergold leaf don’t like her—which, of course, is part of her charm. As for cuisine—and the chef who “creates” when he cooks—and the gargons whose smiles belong to their faces—and the cabins where one really rests—and the orchestra —and the Louis XIV mood of the whole boat—they can’t change. Whether you plan a quick trip on an express oar or a leisurely crossing, the E rench Line service provides the route idéale. It is the line of the expe- rienced travellers. Compagnie Générale Transatlantique, 19 State Street, New York Offices and Agencies in Principal Cities of Europe and the United States Balcony of the STMT LLL 01001 LLAMMALU LADD BOSTON Hotels where the service and atmos- phere is like a well-ordered home. Tke BRUNSWICK The LENOX On either side of Copley Square CTT NEW YORK To have stayed at HOTEL ASTOR is to have lived in New Yo rk Times Square— Broadway, 44th & 45th St. Gd. Hotel de Russie—Hotel Majestic NAPLES The Grand Hotel LAKE of COMO Grand Hotel Villa d’Este T. DOMBRE ee on ITALY BERTOLINI’S PALACE HOTEL HOTEL V E N I C E ROYAL DANIELI GRAND HOTEL : HOTEL REGINA PREFERRED BY AMERICANS fm—GRAND HOTEL MIRAMARE - GENOA A REAL AMERICAN STYLE HOTEL E. DEL GATTO, Mgr. ATLANTIC CITY THE RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL Atlantic City, N. J. America’s Smartest Resort Hotel Gustave Tott, Manager PHILADELPHIA Philadelphia THE RITZ-CARLTON In the heart of the fashionable as well as business life | Under the directionof DAVID B. PROVAN STATE CITY

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| i |

=

THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU

Southern California is the new gateway to Hawaii.

me ae First Summer there was a revelation and each one since has been pure joy

a te, Od Bie f we

BY AN EASTERN WOMAN OME years ago a friend made to us what we then thought was a strange rec- ommendation for a vacation. But she soon convinced us. So we went to Southern California for the summer. We knew it was a lovely spot, but feared that it would be too warm. Imagine our delight when we discovered perfect days, a sum- mer full of them. Great groves of oranges, walnuts and olives are green and beautiful. Gardens of rare blossoms delight the eye. A desert like Sahara is unlike anything you've ever seen. In fact, it is a constant source of wonder why so many pleasures, as many as three continents combined can boast, have been concentrated in this small section of our own United States. We never have a wasted hour. We motor over the 4,000 miles of paved boulevards which lead to all of South- ern California's wonders.

And cool nights—we always slept under blankets. So out of curiosity we looked up the rec- ords and this is what we found. For forty- seven years, the average mean tem- | peratures in a great central city in this district, as recorded by the U. S. Weather Bureau, have been: 47Junes . . 66deg. 47 Augusts "1 deg. 47 Julys . . 70 deg. 47 Septembers .»69 deg. And there was not a rainy day during the entire summer. Oh, we loved it and love it still, for now we go each summer. There’s so much to see, it seems as though one never gets to all the unusual sights there are. The Spanish missions are old and quaint. The majestic trees, hundreds of years old, are a never ending inspiration. There are beaches by the score where children play for hours in the sun. And moun- tains, reaching to the clouds, offer innumerable haunts, new, strange and interesting.

s i << ' = © = = a. Or we play golf on the most interesting courses. Tennis, too, is a favorite sport. A day along the trout streams is never without its reward, while many sportsmen devote hours to the landing of just one of the great fight- ers of the sea. The bridle trails are like trips of exploration. There’s a vast wild:rness for your camp site. Surf bathing is a sport that’s wonderfully invigorating and the finest kind of fun. We often hike for a day in a gorgeous canyon or along the ridge of a moun- tain, thrilling every moment at a new view from this vantage point or that. Then at nightfall, when we choose, we clder folks select a favorite hotel or restaurant for a few hours in “another land.” It’sa glorious sum- mer from beginning to end. We are out of doors for hours every day. It’s all new and different. And we return home fresh and eager for the activities of another year. You, too, should try one summer there. We recommend it without the slightest hesitation. Almost anyone can go. For the accommoda- tions are expensive or reasonable as you like. Then, too, the special round trip summer rates, = from May to October, are remarkably ow. Ask your railroad ticket agent or send the coupon below for additional information. And plan to go this summer to this finest of all vaca- tion-lands.

—| All-Year Club of Southern California At-Year Cus or SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, Dept. 1404, 2601 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles, California. Please send me full information about the sum- mer and year-round vacation possibilities in South- ern California. th ih aric piniccaial d.a/a 9 scaleable alae Camere kare PN 6 6 5 so cranes sia Aa ace on ots Maan edetee

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Empresses to Europe Hamburg Cherbourg Southampton ROM Quebec via the St. Lawrence. One thou- sand miles in sheltered waters. New scenes of rare beauty—cliffs, forests, quaint villages, distant mountains. Then, the shimmering gulf with its green isles with four days only of open Atlantic. Giant oil-burning Trans-Atlantic Liners embodying every modern comfort. Canadian Pacific Empress Expresses, the oil-burning EMPRESS of SCOTLAND and EMPRESS of FRANCE, are the largest, finest and fastest ships on the St. Lawrence. Equipment, personnel, cuisine, service—all‘‘Canadian Pacific Standard—there is none better’. Enjoy the delightful diversity of this route unique. Do not miss the great British Empire Exhibition at London, open April—October,or—the great Olympic Games held this year in Paris. Exceptional Monoclass Cabin Service— Montreal to Liverpool, Belfast,Glasgow,South- ampton, Cherbourg, Havre and Antwerp—-by large oil-burning steamers embodying every modern improvement. Comfort with economy.

Four Days Open Sea For rates and sailings apply to local agents or Canadian Pacific Cet Agus IT SPANS THE WORLD Atlanta, Ga. Detroit, Mich New York, N. Y. St. Louis, Mo. 49 North Forsyth Street 1239 Griswold Street Madison Ave. at 44th St. 420 Locust Street Boston, Mass. Duluth, Minn. Philadelphia, Pa. Tacoma, Wash. 405 Boylston Street Soo Line Depot Locust and 15th Street 1113 Pacific Avenue Buffalo, N. Y. Los Angeles, Cal. Pittsburgh, Pa. Toronto, Ont. 160 Pearl Street 605 South Spring Street 340 Sixth Avenue 1 King Street, East Chicago, Ill. Kansas City, Mo. Portland, Ore. Washington, D. C. Straus Building 6o1 Ry. Exchange Bldg. 55 Third Street 1419 New York Ave. Cincinnati, O. Minneapolis, Minn. San Francisco, Cal. Vencouver, B. C. Dixie Terminal 611 Second Ave., So. 675 Market Street G. P.R. Station Cleveland, O. Montreal, Can. Seattle, Wash. Winnipeg, Man. 1040 Prospect Avenue 141 St. James Street 608 Second Avenue 364 Main Street CANADIAN PACIFIC OFFICES ALL OVER THE WORLD

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26 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU VOGUE |

aH ON RO} & Attractive Tours At Reasonable Rates Frequent Sailings, Most Complete Itineraries Spring - Summer, 1924 One of the oldest Travel Organizations in the world. 49 years of satisfac- ory experience with the traveling public and per- manent offices in Europe assure our clients many ad- vantages. Our Tours have no equal —the personal attention we give each Tour guaran- tees the best of service throughout. Send for “Book B” for details and rates. ANNUAL MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE Jan 29, 1925, New CUNARD S.S. “SCYTHIA’”’ FRANK TOURIST CO. 542 Fifth Ave., New York 219 S. 15th St., Philadelphia 582 Market St., San Francisco Paris Est. 1875 London

SWEDEN Land of Sunlit Nights HERE the sun, at midnight, dips to the horizon but not below! Come first to Sweden, where mid- summer is comfortably cool—come be- tween May 28 and July 18, when the Midnight Sun is at its best. See Sweden’s mighty mountains, thunder- ing cascades, and lovely lakes; visit her ancient castles and ruins; enjoy her | modern cities and splendid railways. AN English is spoken everywhere. Nine days direct from \ ew York, or via tp SWEDISH STATE RAILWAYS — England, brings you

sg Hat Travel I 3 to this novel and de- ravel Information Bureau lightful “Land of To

<a §2 Vanderbilt Avenue day and Yesterday.” oS =,

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your baggage worth? CCIDENT, theft and fire loss are taking daily toll of baggage throughout the country. Is yours worth so little that you can afford to forward it here and there with- out any thought of its safety ? The Tourist Baggage Policy of the Insurance Company of North America offers protection against transportation perils and assures prompt payment of claims. Send the attached memorandum to us today and receive detailed information about its advantages. The cost is small. Any insurance agent or broker can get youa North America Policy. Insurance Company of North America PHILADELPHIA “The Oldest American Fire and Marine Insurance Company” Founded 1792 Pin this coupon to your letterhead SARL MIRA AAARAAERARR RARE e Insurance Co. of North America 2 Third and Walnut Streets Philadelphia, Pa., Dept. VV4 Name Street ‘ he City State

Wants information on Tourist Baggage Insurance

Peck. EUROPE © amd 0010). @ \ } NH | A I YG i = — — ae —

a Se Use our organized methods of travel which have proved their value for nearly.a century. Our European Organization comprises OVER A HUNDRED OFFICES at your service from the moment you arrive to the mo- ment you leave. Large choice of itineraries adaptable to your own plans and requirements: Individual Travel — starting any day; Escorted Tours— frequent departures; Popular Tours—Complete Series $395.—up. Annual Summer Cruise to the Mediterranean, S. S. “Tuscania”—July 3rd to Sept. 2nd. The British Empire Exhibition for which we are Official Transportation Agents will be London’s Special Interest Featuré this year. Hotel Accommodations reserved in advance. Steamship Tickets by All Lines ys C0h pe erele) Grom it), | 585 Fifth Ave. NEW YORK 245 Broadway Boston ed atieterotelote Oi tre te) San Francisco Los Angeles Montreal Toronto Vancouver

I’m going to THE COAST! THE EAST is disillusioned—not the slant-eyed East, but the Atlan- tic East. Nothing but the three- mile limit keeps the sea from break- ing on its cold grey stones once for all. Nothing but the hope of re- tiring keeps the New Yorker from meeting the tide off the dock . . . everybody knows it .... effete. But the West! .... God love you, they’re not afraid to say how good they are. The only trouble is to keep from listening to that siren California with Seattle cooing in your right ear—Portland flinging roses in your eyes—Spokane taunt- ing you with the world’s finest apples—and the Columbia River Highway plunging playfully from peak to peak. Flowers in the winter—ski-ing in the summer—mountains at their devotions—beaches full of color— golf all year—yachting, canoeing, motor boating—the land of oppor- tunity wide-open, every mile scenery, every breath ozone, every citizen a trained publicity man— with no scruples. And beyond—British Columbia sitting among its giant ranges, tickling up the bears. Alaska— tall tales and totem poles—hun- dred-mile glaciers and thousand- mile rivers—silver foxes, cerise sunsets, huskie dogs you could pray to, golden dreams come true in copper, red-blooded men with the bark on. ....

The Coast’s the place! For routes, hotels, res- ervations, and fairly disinterested advice Ask the Travel Man He Knows ! THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 21 West 44th Street, New York City 2, rue Edouard VII, Paris Aldwych House, Aldwych, W. C. 2, London, Eng.

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April 15 Sa Pl PPP ® / \\ Ny Vp Wen Ss S = 2 VOGUE’S | CAMP DIRECTORY | SCHOOL & 27 NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY SCOVILLE SCHOOL 1006 Fifth Ave. N.Y.C. Opp. Art Museum & Central Park Boarding and Day School for Girls Complete academic, college prepara- tory and advanced studies THE FINCH SCHOOL A Boarding and Day School for Girls, emphasizing post-graduate work 61 East 77th Street, New York City CUDDER SCHOOL — MUSIC Vocal, and all instruments. 16 master-artist instructors. Academic subjects, French, Spanish, etc. Dormitories. New York Ad- vantages. Chaperonage. Ask for catalog. Winfield V. Abell, Dir., 244 W. 72d St.,N. Y. SEMPLE SCHOOL Central Park Boarding and Day Pupils. College Preparatory. Post Graduate, Finishing courses. Languages, Art, Music and Dramatic Art. Social Life. Outdoor Recreation. Mrs. T. Darrington Semple, Principal _ 241-242 Central Park West. Box V. New York City Day’ and THE SCUDDER SCHOOL 8cding 7 buildings, West 72d St., near Riverside Drive. Practical courses: (1) High School—preparatory and general; (2) Secretarial; (3) Household Arts; (4) Social Welfare ad Community Service, (5) Music—all branches, 15 instructors, Summer School. Miss Viola Scudder, 244 W. 72d St., N. Y. City. GARDNER SCHOOL 11 East 51st Street, New York City A thorough school with delightful home life. College preparatory, academic, secretarial, eiec- tive courses. Music. Outdoor sports. 68th year. FRENCH HOME SCHOOL Planned exclusively for girls pursuing special studies in New York. Exceptional opportunities for French. MISS MACINTYRE or MLLE. TALGUEN 820 W. 107th St., Riverside Drive, New York City Opposite NEW YORK, Long Island, Garden City Cathedral School of Saint Mary SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. College preparatory and general courses, Box V. MISS MIRIAM A. BYTEL, Principal APnsbhe Castle | Miss Mason’s School ‘~Rei~- for Girls =“. Box 731 Tarrytown-on-Hudson, NewYork CO-EDUCATIONAL ST. ELIZABETH-OF-THE-ROSES A MOTHER SCHOOL Episcopal. Open all year. Children 3 to 12 years. One hour from New York. Usual studies. Outdoor sports. Camp, Bathing. ‘‘The School that Develops Initiative.’’ rs. . B. Stoddard, Directress, Box V, Noroton, Conn. . dramatic art.... ing one of the arts. 21 West 44th Street DO YOU KNOW that we have first-hand information about the following kinds of schools? For Boys: College Preparatory, Military, Non-Mil- itary, and Vocational Schools. For Girls: College Preparatory, Secretarial, Finish- ing, and Vocational Schools. For Adults: Vocational Schools—art, interior deco- rating, costume designing, voice culture, business, and And: Schools abroad; Travelling Schools for summer months; and residences for young women, whose care- ful parents wish them to be chaperoned while study- If you don’t find just what you want listed in these columns, write to the CONDE NAST SCHOOL SERVICE New York City NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY —t ae) Ely School For Girls Greenwich, Conn. In the country. One hour from New York. Junior and Upper Schools. College Preparatory and Graduate Courses. One-year course, intensive college prepara- tory review. Riding and season- able sports. Kent Place School for Girls SUMMIT, NEW JERSEY An Endowed School—Thirtieth Year On the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the Hills of New Jersey twenty miles from New York. COLLEGE PREPARATORY ACADEMIC Music Art Athletics Sarah Woodman Paul, Anna S. Woodman, Principals SCHOOL DWIGHT Fox'Gets College Preparation Special Finishing Courses. _ Athletics, Gymnasium, Tennis, Riding. Write for illustrated booklets. Catalog on request. Miss E. S. Creighton, Principal, Englewood, N. J. STUDENTS’ RESIDENCES TEASDALE RESIDENCE For Girl Students and Young Women 326 W. 80th St, Riverside Drive, New York City Chaperonage French Booklet Summer rates. Tel. Endicott 7858 irs. Boswell’s Residence 344-346 West 84th St., at Riverside Drive, New York. A delightful home for girls attending any school, college or studio. Open all year. Registra- tions now for 1924-25. Elective chaperonage. Eighth year. Telephone Endicott 7653. Catalogue. THE ACORN CLUB 305 West 100th Street, New York City A delightful home for girls studying in the city, and for young business women. Rates moderate. Telephone Riverside 0460, Miss Mary F. Frazer Miss M. Ethel Sliter GLEN EDEN For high-school girls or graduates Suburban to New York City, 50 minutes from Fifth Avenue. Superb granite buildings, 12 acres. Choice of regular and special studies. Small classes; ath- letics; social culture. Exquisite environment. For catalogue and views address Director of Glen Eden, SOUTHFIELD POINT HALL For girls. On Long Island Sound. Intermediate, Col- lege Freneratory and GeneralCourses. Music. Horse- back riding. Outdoor life a special feature. Catalog. Jessie Callam Gray, B.A., Principal 8 Davenport Drive Stamford, Conn. Tarrytown-on- MAR YMOUN Hudson, N. Y. Pre-Academic, Academic and College Courses lead- ing to Degrees. ‘'wo-year Finishing Course. Gym- nasium. Swimming Pool, Riding, Music, Art. Paris Branch—Chiateau de la_ Muette. For Catalogue apply to Reverend Mother. Stamford, Conn. Miss Beard’s School A Country School near New York Orange, New Jersey Ossining School For Girls Ossining-on-Hudson 56th year. College Preparatory, Academic, Art, Music and Economic Courses. Separate school for younger girls. Illustrated year book on request. Clara C. Fuller, ”rincipal Box 4V, Ossining, N. Y. NEW YORK STATE THE KNOX SCHOOL FOR GIRLS College Preparatory, advanced academic course with diploma, music, art, home economics. Horse- back riding. Winter sports. Lower school for girls Io to 12 years old. Mrs. Russell Houghton Cooperstown, New York Box V FOREIGN SCHOOLS & TRAVEL e The Fontaine School £ANNES Study and travel. Cultural, Finishing and College Preparatory courses. Trips. Sports. Resident and Day Students. Address Director, Miss Marie Louise Fontaine, Care of Women’s City Club, 22 Park Ave., New York City; or Box 78, Cannes, A.M., France. A SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Les in LAUSANNE, Switzerland Alliéres Comfortable house, splendid situation. Special advantages for French. Music, other modern lan- guages, dressmaking. Winter and summer sports. For illustrated prospectus apply to the Principal. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 2% 2,22" , tural distinc- tion, June-September. A social and educational opportunity that fulfils the highest heart desires of modern youth. Small, private parties, for young men and women, 16-25 years. rench Tutors. Personal direction and escort ot Florence Gray Keller, Diplémée, and Ernest Keller, Ph. D., Brightwaters, L. 1.. N. Y. Full information on request NEW ENGLAND The Chamberlayne School For girls. Thorough college prepa- ration. A one-year intensive course is offered to graduates of secondary schools and to others fitting for college examinations. General course. GRACE L. EDGETT, Principa! Commonwealth Avenue and Clarendon Street Boston, Mass. CHOATE SCHOOL 1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Mass. Home and day school for girls. Special emphasis in college preparatory work. Augusta Choate, Vassar, A. B.,A. M., Principal for Young Bradford Academy ‘jxo" 1I21st year. Thirty miles from Boston. Address the Principal, MISS MARION COATS, A. M. 162 Main Street Bradford, Mass. KENDALL HALL Boarding and Day School for Girls Intensive training for college and school examinations. Mr. and Mrs. C. P. Kendall Prides Crossing. Beverly, Mass. ROGERS HALL A SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Lowell, Massachusetts MISS OLIVE SEWALL PARSONS, Principai

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VOGUE

NEW YORK Cc CITY & VICINITY

_— LTA College Preparation. NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY

THE BRIARCLIFF FEATURES Outdoor life with supervised athletics. Junior Department. Home Efficiency and Postgraduate courses. Music and Art with New York advan- tages. Spoken French, English and Spanish.

ee a TS ee TS eo gee ~ MRS. DOW’S SCHOOL, BRIARCLIFF MANOR, NEW YORK A PROGRESSIVE SCHOOL FOR THE MODERN GIRL Mrs. EDITH COOPER HARTMAN, B, S.— Principal Music Department Mr. Ossip Gabrilowitsch, Artistic Adviser

Mrs. Florence Mosher Stevens Gilbert, Director Art Department Mr. Charles W. Hawthorne, N.A., Director

ad i THE BRIARCLIFF IDEAL A girl at home in the world of nature, art and science, with clear vision, breadth o thought, and grace of manner, equipped to meet life’s demands, whether in home mak- ing, in social service orin the world of affairs. ELLA LEE CLL eee es eS ers 7 r ia a 8 a B R I A R C L I I I Zz P i

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NEW ENGLAND

THE MISSES ALLEN SCHOOL College Preparatory ,General and Cultural Courses. Athletics Supervised. Each girl’s personality ob- served and developed. Telephone West Newton or3I. Lucy Ellis Allen, Prin., West Newton, Mass. po ensengy School” awe E choo TUTORING PREPARATION COURSE Cetatogue ss item field.Moss

LINCOLN SCHOOL College Preparatory fer Giris. General Courses Modern fireproof buildings All sports. miry life. City advantages MISS MIRIAM SEWALL CONVERSE, Principal Providence. Rhode Island

H IL # SI D E Norwalk, Conn. For Girls. 45 miles from New York. Prepara- tion for college entrance examinations. General Courses. Organized athletics. MargaretR.Brendlinger,A.B. (Vassar) : Vida Hunt Francis, A. B. (Smith) ' Prins.

PINE MANOR A school for home efficiency. Two-year course for graduates of secondary schools. Higher cultural studies with emphasis ——— training in music with concert work. » Teacher Training and College Preparatory Course. Indoor and Outdoor Athletics. swimming pool. Horseback riding a f WOODLAND PARK, The Junior School for Girls Camp Teconnet opens July Ist. Booklets on application. GUY M. WINSLOW, Ph. D., Principal 126 Woodland Road, Auburndale, Massachusetts eo {mnaciom and eature

EASTERN ATLANTIC

BEECHWOOD Jenkintown, Pa. Suburb of Philadelphia. School for practical training of young women. Junior College Departments, Music, Art, Home Econom- ics, Kindergarten, Normal Gymnastics, etc. Pipe organ, gymnasium. Address as above.

Harcum School for Girls Thorough college preparation; or spe cia! study. Music, Art. New building, _s grounds. Athletics, riding. Mrs. H. Harcum, B.L., Head of School; Mire L. M. Willis, B.P., Principal, Box V, Bryn Mawr, Pa.

MAROBERT HALL The Boarding Department of The Girls’ Latin School Excellent College Preparation at Moderate Rates. Cultural Course with Resident Peabody Teacher. 34th Vear. Catalog. 1221 St. Paul St., Baltimore,Md,

_ EASTERN ATLANTIC BISHOPTHORPE MANOR A select school for girls. Convenient to New York and Philadelphia. “oy preparatory and general eourses. Secretarial work Claude N. Wyant, Principal Box 243 Bethlehem, Pa.

‘HIGHLAND HALL A school for Girls High in the Mountains College Preparatory, General, Post-Graduate Courses Autumn and Spring Camp part of School Life Ellen C. Keates, A.B., Principal, Holidaysburg, Pa.

OGONTZ SCHOOL. Founded 1850. A school for girls, occupying an estate on the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Illustrated booklet describing new building mailed on request. Rydal, Junior Department. Miss Abby Sutherland, Principal, Pennsylvania, Montgomery County.

For Girls Seven Gables FSi Thoroughly equipped for the development of junior girls. Special care for health. A real and beautiful home. New gy agen pool, horseback riding. Address Mr. and Mrs. H. M. Crist, Principals, Box 1509, Swarthmore, Pa.

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA

IMMACULATA SEMINARY, WASHINGTON, D. C. Select Suburban School for Girls . Two-years’ College Course. Preparatory and Special Courses. Music, Art, Expression, Domestic Science, Gymnasium, new swimming pool. Riding, abundant outdoor sports. Advantages of Washington with experienced chaperones. Address THE SECRETARY 4300 Wisconsin Ave.

ies Che Misses Stone’s School For a limited number of young ladies. American History, Literature, History of Art and French. Secretarial Course. Interior Decoration. Prepara- tion for travel. Miss Isabelle Stone, Ph.D. and Harriet Stone, M.S. 1700 Rhode ‘sland Ave. N. W., Washington, D

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AA as April 15 29 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA SOUTHERN BOYS’ SCHOOLS FAIRMONT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Washington, D. C. Regular and Special Courses. Advanced Courses for High School graduates. Music, Art, Expression. Educational advantages of National Capital. For catalogue, address Fairmont School, 2109 S Street, Washington, D. C. COLONIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Advantages of National Capital. Retined residence section. High School, College preparatory, Col- legiate, courses. Domestic Science, Secretarial, Music, Art, Expression. Athletics. Miss Jessie Truman, Assoc. Prin. 1537 Eighteenth St., N. W Washington, D. C. THE EASTMAN SCHOOL 1305 Seventeenth Street, Washington, D.C. Boarding and Day School for Girls, Courses from Primary to College. Special Attention to Athletics. Dramatic work. Business Course. Catalogue on request. Miss E. J. Brydon, Secretary. KING -SMITH STUDIO - SCHOOL For young women. Music, languages, dancing, dra- matic art; any art, academic or college subject may beelected. Tuition according to amount of work taken. . & MRS. AUGUST KING-SMITH, Directors 1751 New Hampshire Ave., Washington, D. C. CHEVY CHASE SCHOOL A school for the girl of today and _ tomorrow. Courses: Preparatory, two-year advanced for high school graduates; special. Unrivalled location at the national capital. For catalog, address Chevy Chase School, BoxV. Frederick Ernest Farrington. Ph. D., Headmaster, Washington, D. C. NATIONAL PARK SEMINARY FOR GIRLS, WASHINGTON, D, C., SUBURBS The fundamentals of college training in a 2-year diploma course.Music, Dramatics, Home Economics.Catalog on request JAS. E. AMENT, Ph.D., LL.D., President BOX 173, FOREST GLEN, MARYLAND PACIFIC COAST THE ANNA HEAD SCHOOL serene a girs: High School graduates admitted without examination to all colieges using accrediting system. Students prepared for college board examinations. Post gradu- ate, primary and intermediate departments, Cheer- ful, homelike school with outdoor life year round. Address Miss Mary E. Wilson, Prin. Box C. Berkeley, Calif. WARD-BELMONT For Girls and Young Women Ward-Belmont combines highest academic training and advantages of extensive grounds and equipment with that much-sought-for Southern culture and refinemeut. Six-year Course of study embracing two years of college, For information address WARD-BELMONT Belmont Heights, Box 10, Nashville, Tenn, Warrenton Country School—For Young Girls’ | College preparatory and general course. French the language of the house. The school is planned to teach girls how to study, to bring them nearer nature, and to inculcate habits of order and econ- omy. This school offers a fixed rate. Music, Drawing and Riding are the only extras. Mlle. LEA M. Bou.iGcny, Box 18, WARRENTON, VA. SULLINS COLLEGE. Bristol, Virginia For Girls. High School and Junior College Courses. Music, Expression, Domestic Science, etc. New buildings; every room connecting bath. Swimming Pool, Horse-back riding. Mountain climate. W. E. Martin, Ph.D., Pres., Box H. VIRGINIA COLLEGE for Girls and Young Women Box V. ROANOKE, VA. In Valley of Virginia. Elective, Preparatory, Junior College. Music, Art, Expression. Home Economics. — Journalism. Mattie_P. Harris, President. Mrs. GERTRUDE HARRIS BOATWRIGHT, Vice-President. CENTRAL STATES LINDENWOOD COLLEGE Founded 1827 50 minutes from St. Louis. Standard College for Young Women fully accredited. 2 and_4 year Y Business, Oratory, courses. Home Economics, Music. 138 Acres. Gymnasium, Swimming Pool. Catalog. J. L. Roemer, President Box 424 St. Charles, Mo. FERRY H ALL College preparatory, gen- eral high school and ad- vanced courses. Also special instruction in music, expression and domestic arts and sciences. Located in a well-known residence suburb on the shore of Lake Michigan, twenty-eight miles from Chicago. For catalog address Miss Eloise R. Tremain, Prin., Box 326, Lake Forest, Ill. ELMHURST A College Preparatory School for Girls | Under the direction of Eastern Teachers with European training. Horseback riding. All Sports out of Doors. Miss ISABEL CRESSLER Miss CAROLINE SUMNER CONNERSVILLE, INDIANA NEW ENGLAND | NEW ENGLAND 250 boys, $1,000,000 equipment ORCESTER ACADEM FOR BOYS OF ABILITY WITH COLLEGE VISION Tuition $1000 Worcester, Massachusetts ROXBURY College Preparatory School for the Individual. Expert Tutoring Methods. Classes Limited to five. W. L. Ferris, Director, Cheshire, Conn. RIPPOWAM VILLA BOYS’ SCHOOL 79 Prospect St., Stamford, Conn., Phone 3857 A school with definite purposes. Real home at- mosphere combined with inspiration, sympathetic understanding and encouragement. Pupils received now or registered for next year. Primary to college. W. JEROLD O’NeEtrL, Headmaster. THE COCHRAN SCHOOL ; On Long Island. One hour from New York City. Complete preparation for college. Small classes. Constructive physical training. Progressive meth- ods. Upper and Lower School. Age limits, 8-10. For booklet address WILLIAM T. COCHRAN, Headmaster, 170 East AVENUE, NORWALK, CONN. WESTMINSTER SCHOOL SIMSBURY, CONN. Raymond R. McOrmond, Headmaster Allen-Chalmers A Country School for Boys Military Regularity. Upper and Lower Schools. Thomas Chalmers, West Newton. Mass. McAllister-Hawk School For young boys. Preparation for leading secondary schools. Masters especially trained in the care and education of the young boy. 115 acres. 8 buildings. 38 miles from Boston. Booklet. Philip Bovier Hawk, Ph.D.. Headmaster, Lancaster, Mass. RUMSEY HALL égkrenut CONNECTICUT A school for boys under 15 Yearly Rate $1350 L. R. Sanford, Prin. Louis H. Shutte, M.A., Headmaster SOUTHERN MILITARY STAUNTON ‘caoenv One of the most distinguished schools in America preparing for Universities, Government academies, Business. Gymnasium, swimming pool, all athletics. Complete plant. Charges $650. ol. THos. H. RussELL, B.S., Pres., Box V, (Kable Station) STAUNTON, VA. College gives the foundation 21 West 44th Street Are You a College Graduate ? There is a demand for college graduates as private secretaries, as business administrators, office executives and personnel officers. position, but actual training for it has to be obtained in a school specializing in the necessary subject. For the best business schools, read these pages or write to the CONDE NAST SCHOOL SERVICE for making a success of such a New York City GIRLS’ CAMPS BOYS’ SCHOOLS NEW YORK EASTERN ATLANTIC Oe (evelekme Yoetere) | OSSINING-ON-HUDSON, N.Y. Small Prepares Boys for College and Business, Separate classes. Military training. Athletics. school for boys under 13. William Addison Ranney, A.M., Prin. The STORM NG -School formerly The STONE SCHOOL Established 1867 A Progressive College Preparatory School. Attractive Outdoor Life. 50 miles from New York. Catalog and Book of Views on Request Alvan E. Duerr, Headmaster—Cornwall on Hudson, N. Y. MANLIUS—St. John’s School Military. College preparatory. Graduates now at- tending 44 colleges. Business course. Thorough equipment. Athletics. Junior School for boys 1o to 14. 35 years under present management. Cata- log. Address — yi Gen. Wm. Verbeck, Pres., Box 134, Manlius, N.Y. New York Military Academy A School of Distinction Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York Brig.-Gen. Milton F. Davis. D. S. M., Supt. CENTRAL STATES LAKE FOREST Non-Military College Preparatory Academy for Boys. Near Chicago. All Athletics. Endowed. Cata- log: J. W. Richards, Box 150, Lake Forest, III. ACADEMY FOR THORPE BOYS UNDER 15 Beautiful high bluff lacation, Lake Michigan shore. 30 miles from Chicago. Semi-military. Small clegnen. Uniforms. Catalog. Address Secretary’s ce. Lake Forest, Ill. MILITARY ACADEMY For catalog, address The Inquiry Bureau, Cul- ver, Ind. ULVER BBLAIRG An Endowed School for Boys Founded 1848 Complete equipment, imposing buildings, beautiful and healthful location. Thorough instruction. Lower School for younger boys. Upper School prepares for College and Technical School. Write for catalog. Visit the School. JOHN C. SHARPE, LL.D. Headmaster Blairstown, New Jersey Box K FREEHOLD it SCHOOL for boys 7 to 15. Modified military training—in- culcates obedience, orderliness, self-reliance. The school with the personal touch. Catalog. Address Major Chas. M. Duncan, Box 49, Freehold, N. J we PRINCETON TUTORING SCHOOL Thorough and Successful College Prep. Catalog Illustrated Booklets, References on request. John G. Hun, “Edgehill,”” Princeton, New Jersey. A National Bevaing Schoolsituated on a beauti- ful hilloverlooking the Susquehanna River. College Board standards. Campus of 190 acres. All ath- letics. Catalogue. Rate $1100. Murray Peabody Brush, Ph. D., Port Deposit, Md. PEDDIE lege and business life. For the all-around edu- cation of many boys. Athletic sports. 60-acre campus. Prepares for col- Moderate rates. Lower School for boys from 10 to 14. Roger W. Swetland, Headmaster, Box 4V Hightstown, N. J. BORDENTOWN Nour INSTITUTE Thorough preparation for college or business. Efficient faculty, small classes, individual atten- tion. Boys taught how to study. Supervised athletics. goth year. Catalogue. Col. T. D. Landon, Principal and Commandant, Drawer C-13, Borden- | THE TEELA-WOOKET CAMPS s% ya ff For Girls under 20 Roxbury, Vermont “THE HORSEBACK CAMPS” Teela-Wooket, a 300-acre wonderland in the heart of the Green Mountains, is famous for its fine horses, free riding and thourough instruction in horsemanship. Junior and Senior camps. Bi lows, hot and cold show- ers, all sports, ‘olf ins ructi « Excellent food in abundance. Twelfth season. “The Camp Without Extras” Illustrated Booklets Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Boys 10 Bowdoin St., Cambridge, Mass. Idlewild for boys, Lake Winnepesaukee, N. H. WYONEGONIC Denmark, Maine, 23rd Season Three Separate Camps (ages 8 to 21) Illustrated Booklet MR. and MRS. C. E. COBB, Vero, FLoRIDA After March 20th, DENMARK, MAINE Camp Abena. Belgrade Lakes, Maine. Everything for the care, health and development of girls. Juniors, Middlers, Seniors. Fine horseback riding. Swimming, canoeing, golf, tennis, dramatics, tifle range. Booklet. Address, Miss Hortense Hersom, Franklin Square House, Boston, Mass. amp , econnel ¢.,, CHINA, MAINE All the advantages of land and water activi- ties, including horseback riding under expert The Island town-on-the-Delaware, instruction. For booklet address, MRS. CHARLES F. TOWNE 129 Woodland Park Auburndale, Mass. GIRLS’ CAMPS : CAMP WABASSO 8, LAKE BLAISDELL, SUTTON, N. H. Junior and Senior Camps. All water and land sports, riding, arts and crafts. Trip including Presidential Range. Christine Hovey Smith, Sidewell’s Friends School, 81! Eye St., N. W. Washington, D. C. T H E S P U R Lake Blaisdell, Sutton, N. H. A Riding Camp for Girls Featuring the exclusiv_ use of a fine horse for each irlior the entire season. For prospectus address, iss Christine H. Smith, Sidwells’ Friends School, 1811 Eye St. N.W. Washington, D. C. ” TALL PINES CAMP For girls. On beautiful lake among tall, fragrant pines. 1300 feet altitude. Mountain climbing- water sports, horseback riding, arts and crafts. The Club for girls over 18. Miss Evelina Reaveley. 36-B Washington Square, Gloucester, Mass. CAMPS FOR GIRLS In Rangeley region, on a hillside overlooking a beautifuy lake in Wilton, Every convenience for health and enjoy- ment. Assembly building surrounded by cozy sleeping bungalows. All camp activities, experienced councillors. Recreation Camp Tutoring Camp Girls 8 18 Separate living quarters Three distinct units -Jun- and distinct program. iors, Middlers, Sen- eachers with suc- r e cessful experience mountains, sea and in tutoring. Prep- wilds of Maine. aration for college Horseback riding examinations and over country roads. L make up. Opportun- rafts, dramatics. F i ity to join daily in Land and water sports and general sports. Hockey field. camp activities. Illustrated Booklets MISS ELISABETH BASS, Director, Wilton. Maine The Luther Gulick Camps IN MAINE Sebago-Wohelo for girls 13 to 18 Little Wohelo for girls 8 to 13 Summer address South Casco, Maine Winter address 122 High St., Portland, Maine Camp Neshobe for Girls **The Camp of Happiness.’ Fairlee Lake, So. Fairlee, Vt.—Bungalows, horseback riding and water sports, ath- letics. Individual attention. CATALOG Mr. & Mrs.E.V. OscGoop, Clinton, Mass

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30 VOGUE GIRLS’ CAMPS | GIRLS’ CAMPS SPECIAL SCHOOLS Pettit Camps CAMP AREY "Zh SSacon5 te camp unique in its life ‘spirit and associations. Restricted enrollment, resident graduate nurse. land and water sports carefully supervised by ex- rt instructors, hikes, camping trips, dramatics, ockey, crews, horseback riding, camp paper. Table Francaise. Member N.A.D.G.C. Mrs. André Fontaine, Roslyn Heights, L.I. On picturesque Chautauqua Lake, New York, Choice lo- cation, altitude 1500 feet. All camp activities - includ- irg gli, riding. athletics, water sports,handicra(t, hik- ing, boati ne canoeing, | dramatics, an Specialties: good food, home ke care, high moral tone. Three | departments, ages & to 18. bi Lasily accessible by railand | s motor. Under personal su- |. pervision of F Rev. and Mrs. R. C. STOLL 15 College Hill, Snyder, N. Y. Write for Booklet CAMP WINNESHEWAUKA Lunenburg, Vt. In the White Mountain region. Mile of Lake shore. Free horseback riding. Water and field sports. Handicrafts. Satisfied parents and happy girls tell the story. Booklet on request. Herbert F. Balch, Dept. C, St. Johnsbury, Vt. WYODA CAMP Lake Fairlee, Vt. Swimming, canoeing, rifle shooting, archery, music, woodcraft, hand- craft, riding, dancing, Es air theatre. Booklet. Mr. and Mrs. Harvey Newcomer, LowerreSum- mit Park, Yonkers, N. Y- CAMP COWASSET FOR GIRLS North Falmouth, ass., on Buzzards’ Bay. Canoeing, swimming, water sports. Free horse- back riding, tennis, field contests. Seniors and uniors. Address fiss Beatrice A. Hunt, 18 Plymouth Street, Holbrook, Mass. AHMO Adirondack Wonder Camp All land and water sports Superior equipment. References required VIRGINIA D. BELL, Director 25 West 43rd St. New York City TWA ALEXIS RosLorr OF THE METROPOLITAN Opera House-New ToRK FORMERLY OF THE IMPERIAL RussiAN BALLET CLASS & PRIVATE INSTRUCTION IN ALL FORMS OF DANCING CHILOREN’S CLASSES New Da and Music ---- FORSALE AT THE STuvDio-- 2.4 West 57TH STREET-New York CIRCLE 5208 SILVER LAKE CAMPS—In the Lake Placid region of the Adirondacks. All land and water sports. Horseback riding under experts. Arts and Crafts. Senior and Junior Units. For illustrated booklet address: Director, SILVER LAKE CAMPS Box 21 Bradford, Mass. BOYS’ & GIRLS’ CAMPS SUMMER CAMP for BACKWARD CHILDREN ON THE MAINE COAST Near Rockland, Maine Life in the open, with swimming, canoeing, motor- boating, deep-sea fishing, motoring, horseback rid- i. .g, tennis, and other sports combined with expert care and training under experienced nurses and MARITIARDEN Peterborough, N. H. Outdoor Stage . Summer School of Drama and Dance Lucy P. Currier, Secretary 6 Commonwealth Avenue Boston, Massachusetts THE OUT-DOOR PLAYERS July 7 to August 30 Peterborough, New Hampshire, Acting—Producing—Dancing—Stage Craft Professional coaching for Readers and Lecturers teachers, with a physician in charge. For partic- ulars address nay ANCROFT SCHOOL Haddonfield New Jersey BOYS’ CAMPS Instructors: men and women of authority MARIE WARE LAUGHTON, Director 417 Pierce Bidg., Boston, Mass. CAMP THORNHURST Boys 61016 In the Heart of Pocono Mountains.All water sports, horse-back ri-ing, tennis, base-ball, radio, nature study: Electric lights, Modern plumbing. Booklet. Dr. JAY HARLEE McCLELLAN, Thornhurst, Pa. Boys 6 to 16 KYLE CAMP @ragu'we Model Bungalows-no damp tents. Safe Bathing Physician and nurse. Saddle horses and ponies Movies. 36 Buildings. 41 years with boys. Dr. Paul Kyle, Kyle School for Boys, since 1890 Box 14. Irvington-on-Hudson, N. Y. TRAIL’S END The Kentucky Camp for Girls Write for Booklet Miss M. D. Snyder 363 S. Broadway, Lexington, Ky. OGONTZ WHITE MOUNTAIN CAMP FOR GIRLS 300 acres of lake and mountains near Lisbon, N. H. Golf. Free horseback riding. Arts and crafts. Comfortable cabins. Hot and cold showers. Address the OGoONTz SCHOOL, RYDAL, Pa. WANALDA Torch Lake, Mich. Senior girls 14-20. Juniors under 14. Young Women over 20. 110 acres Grand Traverse Region. All landand water sports. Saddle Horses. Arts and Crafts. Branchcamp for canoe-trips. Launch. Screened Huts. Corrective exercises. Teteting, Write for Booklet Directors, amp Wanalda, Central. Lake, Mich. SAGies NEST CAMP for GIRLS AYNESVILLE, Riding, me. sports, crafts, dancing, wood- lore, plays, trips. Excellent food, mature staff, Ar health care. Special attention to individual needs. uniors, Seniors, $300. XTRAS. rs. F. Myers Jr., 620E. 40th St., Savannah, Ga. CAMP NEWAKA—For Girls. Gold Lake, Colo- rado. Near Estes Park. All the activities of health- ful camp life, with riding a feature. No extras. References required. For booklet, write to Mary K. Voorhees, Apt. U, 4600 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, Mo. MEENAHGA CAMPS FISH CREEK, WISCONSIN. Junior Camp 7 to 13. Senior 14 to 18. and over. A real camp. Supervised sports. let. Address Mrs. F. W. Mabley, Mrs. Clark, 4905 Argyle Place, N., St. Louis, Mo. SANDSTONECAMP Green Lake, Wis. The Camp of Happiness. Three Divisions, Girls 8 to 24. Allcamp activities. Twenty counsellors. Thirteenth season. Address Esther G. Cochrane 3722 B Pine Grove Ave. FOR GIRLS Chicago, I11. CAMP POK-O-MOONSHINE One of the Oldest and Best for Boys, in the Adiron- dacks. Five distinct sections, ages 8 to 18. All land and water sports. Mountain climbing. Rate includes R. R. fares, laundry and two hours’ tu- toring daily. 30 counsellors. roth season. Catalog, Dr.C. A. Robinson, Prin. Box V3, Peekskill, N.Y | CAMP WINNECOOK FOR BOYS Lake Winnecook Unity, Maine 22d season. Our campers become expert swimmers, riders and marksmen. The kind of asummer a boy most enjoys. Illustrated booklet. Herbert L. Rand 13 Hemenway Road, Salem, Mass. CAMP At Wayne, Me. The right camp for your boy. Only the right type of boys accepted. For illustrated booklet write to Supervisor Physical Education Board of Education, Olean, N. Y. STAGE DANCING TALL" WALTER BAAER | Formerly Dancing Master for Ziegfeld Follies, John Cort, Chas, Dillingham, Lee & J. J. Shubert. Geo . Cohan, others. Teacher of Marilynn Miller, Fairbanks Twins, Klorence Walton and es of others. Booklet Free 900 7th Ave., N, Y. $290 Circle | ___‘ SPECIAL SCHOOLS VESTOFF SEROVA Russian School of DANCING Ballet, Classic, Interpretative, National and Ballroom Dancing Children’s Courses a Specialty. Baby Work Classes Private Lessons Normal Courses W rite for Booklet V M. Veronine Vestoff Mile. Sonia Serova Artist Pavlowa's Graduate Russian Imperial Ballet School 47 West 72nd Street New York Oa UNIVERSITY SCHOOL 30th YEAR DRAMA—OPERA-—VOICE MUSIC——DANCE ART=—SCREEN DIRECTORS Eminent faculty of professional Alan Dale teachers and stage _ directors Wm. A. Brady including Rose Coghlan, late with Belasco; Roy Cochran, late with Ethel and John Barrymore, and Claude M. Alviene, who has Henry Miller Sir John Martin Harvey MargueriteClark taught Mary Pickford. Laurette J. J. Shubert Taylor, Mary Nash, Florence Nash, Eleanor Painter, Alice Joyce, and others. Write for booklet to Secretary, Extension 10, stat- ing study desired, 43 West 72nd St., N. Y¥. C. THE §S LEY SCHOOL OF INTERIOR DECORATION Summer intensive course, with lectures and workshop training daily. Ten weeks beginning une 23rd; morning or evening session. 48 Madison Ave., N.Y.C. Rhinelander 8165 Ghe NEW YORK SCHOOL of’ TERIOR DECORATION Ol PARK AVE -NEW YORK CITY Correspondence Courses Complete instruction in period styles, color harmony, furniture arrangement, curtains, etc. Ama- teur and professional courses. Start at once. Send for Catalog V N. Y. PROFESSIONAL SCHOOL OF INTERIOR DECORATION H. Francis Winter, director Actual Practical Training, Studios, Workshops Laboratories and Visitations Quarterly Classes Send for booklet 28 East 75th Street, N. Y. C.. East of Fifth Ave. METROPOLITAN ART SCHOOL 8 West 57th St., New York SUMMER ery = ed Gloucester, Mass. rt of Color’’ by Michel Jacobs Landscape. -Figure Painting—Interior Decoration Costume - Design-Poster. Children’s Classes PERRY-MANSFIELD CAMP Steamboat Springs, Colo. Normal & Professional School Recreation Camp ¢ Outdoor Classic Dancing Horseback Riding Camping Character Work Swimming Pantomime Tennis Costuming Dramatics Modeling Games Design Dancing. Stage Setting. Booklet on request—1140 Grant St., Denver, Colo. DENISHAWN Ruth St. Denis and Ted Shawn School of the Dance Summercourseopens Juneoth. Catalogueon Request Jane Edgerton, Mar. 327 West; 28th Street, New York TOME CAMP FOR BOYS On heights above Susquehanna River. Tents and Lodge. Experienced counselors. Trained nurse. All sports. Tutoring. July 1st to August 31st. Catalogue. Directors: Murray P. Brush, Ph. D. —Mrs. I. T. Bagley, Port Deposit, Md. CAMP TERRA ALTA Non-Military. Directed by Commandant of Staunton Military Academy. On Lake Terra Alta. Elevation 2800 ft. $20,000 equipment. Athletics, water sport, bowling, wireless, target practice. Tepering. Booklet. he Commandant, Box H, Staunton, Va. SPECIAL SCHOOLS SUMMER CAMP AND ART SCHOOL Conducted by Grace Cornell South Bristol, Maine The school is for the study of the principles of fine art and is intended to fit the needs of designers, teachers, home-makers, and others who are inter- ested in the relation of art toindustry and to every- day life. July 7th to August 8th For descriptive folder address: Grace Cornell, 454 Riverside Drive, New York. ROSETTA O’ NEILL DANCING Classic—National—Folk—Rhythmic—Ball Room " A 11 em. spores, ‘To Miss O'Neill I ow y 7 Castle 746 Madison Ave., N. Y. Phone Rhinelander 6770 American Academy of DramaticArt The leading institution for Dramatic and Express- ional Training in America. For information apply to SECRETARY, 251P Carnegie Hall, New York, N.Y. ADELAIDE & HUGHES Studio of Dance Classes for all Classic Dancing. Stage Dances created. Amateur performances staged. Children’s Saturday classes, all ages. Physical culture classes. Catalog 45 West 57th St. Plaza 3576 The Marjorie Webster School of Expression and Physical Education 2-year Normal course. 1-year Professional course. Day and Night School. Dormitory. Fall session September 22nd. Catalogue. 1415 V Massachusetts Ave. N. W., Wash, D.C, Application until May 1Isth New York School NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Felix Mahony, Pres. Interior Decoration: Costume, Commercial Poster & Textile Design. Tllustration and Life, ete. Catalog. Connecticut Ave. and M St., Washington, D. C. SCHOOL OF APPLIED ART 142 Berkeley St., Boston, Mass. Normal Courses Special Courses er & Seamer poscions. Weaving, Mm. 4 querk, 8 Basketry, Jew Pottery, Block Printing, Stenciting, rg Catalog ue. Mrs. Sara K. Smith, Director. SCHOOL of DESIGN and LIBERAL: ARTS 212 West 59th St., N.Y.C. Phone Circle 1850 Interior Decoration: Costume Illustration Lectures and demonstrations by Professionals. Period styles, color fabrics, costume, furni- =. Four months intensive training courses Intensive Course in DRESS DESIGNING oe » a FRENCH ART ne tute i 599 Fink Ave. (at asth st. ter York N. Y. School of Fine & Applied Art Summer Session N.Y. ge Paris Frank A. Parsons . Odom, V. Pres. All professional ain subjects. ety tours in France. Send for Circulars. Special lectures. Address Sec., 2239 Broadway, N. Y. THE TRAPHAGEN SCHOOL OF FASHION Co-operating with the Trade Summer and Evening classes now forming Write for announcement V. ETHEL TRAPHAGEN 80 West goth Sit. New York | BOSTON SCHOOL of INTERIOR DECORATION Correspondence Courses | Course A—Professional Training Course. o—_ = _—— Course—How to Plan Your wn eeaeaes limited—Write for Prospectus Address P. O. 143, Boston (Copley Station), Mass. oe ae ~ i= ra, wel i TH = | O —_—— i o

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April 15 SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS COSTUME DESIGN MILLINERY DESIGN FASHION ILLUSTRATION The one uncrowded profession that offers fascinating work pleasant associations and laige income, and may be mastered in a few short months under my personal instruction. Call or write for my book, “The Secret of Costume Design.” No Charge or obligation. EMIL ALVIN HARTMAN FASHION ACADEMY 4 East 53rd St. 1432 N. Broad St. ; tH NewYorkCity Philadelphia, Pa. DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- sale, retail or home use Day and evening classes. Call or write for particulars. McDowell Dress- making and Millinery School. Established 1876. No Branches. 58 West 40th Street, N. Y. \. MASTER INSTITUTE OF UNITED ARTS MUSIC— PAINTING—SCULPTURE ARCHITECTURE—OPERA CLASS BALLET—DRAMA—LECTURES “To Open the Door to Beauty” _ Send for Catalogue V 310 Riverside Drive, New York City YALE SCHOOL OF THE FINE ARTS Yale University, New Haven, Conn. Four year courses in Architecture— Interior Decoration— Painting—Sculpture. Illustrated Catalogue. THEGARLAND SCHOOL oF HOMEMAKING Booklet on training for efficient home making. rs. Margaret J. Stannard, Director. 2 Chestnut Street, Boston, Mass. [Gjnited States secretarial School venue, New York City Secretarial & Business training. 4 Irving Edgar Chase, Director Vandesbite 2474 MIS CONKLINS SECRETARIAL SCHOOL 105 West 40th St. New York BALLARD Register Now For SCHOOL SECRETARIAL COURSE Established 51 years 610 Lex. Ave.at 53rd St.Central BranchY.W.C.A. KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL OF SECRETARIAL AND EXECUTIVE Training for Educated Women Resident and Day School, 247 Berkeley St., Boston Day School, 247 Park Ave., New York City. SHORT-STORY WRITING A practical forty-lesson course in the writing and marketing of the Short-Story taught by Dr. J. Berg Esenwein, Editor Of The Writer’s Monthly. 150 page catalog free. Please address: Dr.Esenwein The Home Correspondence School Dept. 16 Springfield, Mass. WOMEN! BECOME INDEPENDENT Improve your own appearance while learning to improve that of others Become a member of this highly respected profes- sion. Marinello graduates lead everywhere—are known and sought—earn $3,000 to $20,000 a year. Learn scientifically and thoroughly at the largest and best-equipped schools of beauty culture in the country. Marinello teaches Facial and Scalp Treatments, Shampooing, Manicuring, Marcel and Water Wav- tat Hairdressing, Permanent Waving and Elec- trolysis. Day and night classes, advanced and elementary. Easy terms. Call or write for our School Catalogue. THE MARINELLO SYSTEM 366 Fifth Avenue 806 Tower Court E Practical training for delightful and remunerative Art professions. + PLUS Airy studios with cooling breezes from Lake Michigan to fan your enthusiasms +PLUS A coat of tan from outdoor classes and recreations. = EQUALS A Summer Vacation at the (ACADEMY, OF FINE ARTS | CARL z N WERNT Director en. | {| Distinctive Millinery is the Mark of a Well Dressed Woman Learn to create your own exclusive styles In a thoroughly practical and well-equipped school, under the personal direction of an expert. Completion of course permits fulfilling respon- sible, lucrative positions. Day and Evening Classes, Booklet upon request. ADELAIDE MILLER STUDIO 20 WEST FORTY-NINTH STREET NEW YORK CITY = (just off Fifth Avenue) Tea Room TrainingmYour Own Home Train at home in spare time at cost of but a few cents 9 day for the high salaries that are being paid in Tea Rooms, Cafeterias, Motor Inns and Coffee Shops everywhere. Y. manage one already going or open one in your own home — city, town, country or resort, and rapidly increase your income. Big salaries paid to trained managers; shortage acute. Be independent. Write for Free Book “*Pouring Tea for Profit.’’ LEWIS TEA ROOM INSTITUTE Dept. K-5622, Washington, D. C. ou can THE BANCROFT SCHOOL For children whose development has not pro- gressed normally —FORTIETH YEAR— Winter School near Philadelphia, Summer Camp in Maine. Fifty-four acres of ground, twenty-six buildings, sixty-eight employees, in- cluding twelve teachers and twenty-eight gov- ernesses. E. A. Farrington, M.D. Jenzia Coulson Cooley Address Box 145 Haddonfield, N. J. —— EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN can be successfully developed by individual training BOYS, GIRLS, LITTLE FOLKS Three Separate Schools. Booklet. Miss Woods’ Schools, Box 169, Langhorne, Pa. Mollie Woods Hare, Principal THE FREER SCHOOL For girls of retarded development. Limited enroll- ment permits intimate care. 9 miles from Boston. Miss Cora E. Morse, Principal, 31 Park Circle. Arlington Heights, Mass. Schermerhorn Home School Aschool for children of slight retardatior Special emphasis on physical development and correction of speech defect. Miss Sue J. Schermerhorn Colonial Place, R. F. D. 2 Richmond, Va. Hawley School of Development d Retarded Children. Specializes tag Ber nn tgp and Speech Correction. English and Art Classes. Limited number. Marion L. Hawley 53 Strawberry Hill Stamford, Conn. STANDISH MANOR SCHOOL A special school for backward girls. Individual in- struction. Experienced teachers. Happy home life Healthiul location. Out-door and water sports. 30- acre estate. ALicE M: MEYERS, Principal | Haze G, CuULLINGFoRD, Ass’t Principal HAILFAX, MASS. DEVEREUX SCH@LS for Children whose Progress has been Retarded Three separate schools for Boys and Girls of all ages requiring Scientific Observation and Special Instruction. Male faculty for older boys. Tutoring Camp in summer. HELENA T. DEVEREUX, Director, Box V BERWYN, PA. FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE SCHOOL BACKWARD CHILDREN Katonah, N. Y.—42 Miles from N. Y. In Beautiful Westchester Hills. Rudolph S. Fried, Principal. THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING SCHOOL An ideal private home-school for nervous, back- ward and mental defectives. No age limit. Phys- ical Culture. Manual training and all branches. Open year around. Terms $75 per month. TRADE From the New York Times January 24, 1924 TRWNIT. ee Bless” Miss a THE [WNIT “If it isn’t FULL-FASHIONED— it’s old-Fashioned”’ UKNIT BATHING SUITS ARE FULL FASHIONED THROUGHOUT At the best Stores and Specialty Shops D. NUSBAUM & CO. BROOKLYN KNITTING CO. MILLS—UNION COURSE, LONG ISLAND SALES OFFICE 347 Fifth Avenue, New York ( WHOLESALE ONLY ) Mr. and Mrs. AuGust A. Bo.tpT, Supt. New York City Chicago Il, New York, Binghamton, 112 Fairview Ave. Ask us anything about travel The Condé Nast Travel Bureau will answer all travel questions, and arrange all travel mat- ters for Vogue readers, by mail, or by personal interview. For example, here are some of the things the Travel Bureau will gladly do for you: Furnish Travel Literature: If you're interested in any particular trip, or locality, in this country or abroad, ask us to send you some of the interesting literature which we have on file. Plan Itineraries: Tell us where and when you plan to go, and for how long, and about how much you plan to spend on the trip. We will suggest an itinerary accom- modated to your time and purse. We'll help you make and get the utmost out of both. Make Reservations: At your request we will make reservations for you on railroad and steamship lines, whether separately or for a ’round-the-world tour; and at the hotels and resorts enroute, or where you plan to stay for the season. Bookings: You can remit to us for accommodations desired, and we will make the bookings, buying and sending to you the tickets, receipts, etc., ordered. Travelers’ Checks or Letters of Credit: We will tell you how and where to purchase the safest and most convenient forms in which to carry money. Introductions: We will furnish you with cards of introduction, to be presented to the manager of the hotel where you elect to stay, assuring you of special courtesy and attention. Insurance: We will recommend or arrange insurance against per- sonal accident or loss of baggage. You can telephone, telegraph or write freely for any information or advice which will facilitate your fullest possible enjoyment of the many opportunities offered by modern travel. There is no charge or obligation of any kind, The Condé Nast Travel Bureau 21 West 44th Street New York City

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32 pro Pr Eras AND = SSS >= sana -— Antiques ANTIQUES that reflect beauty and charm. Hand- wrought reproductions of famous period furniture personally selected. Bank or commercial ref. Mrs. C. L. Deming, 5301 Danneel St., New Orleans, La. Arts and Crafts CANADIAN Handwoven HOMESPUNS, _Blan- kets, Spreads, Headquarters for work among French Canadian Peasantry. Samples. Canadian Handi- craft Guild, 598 St. Catharine St., W. Montreal. CANADIAN HOMESPUNS, from looms of French habitants. Samples, state colors. Murray Bay Blankets, tufted bedspreads, table covers, etc. Canadian Homespuns, 347 Craig West, Montreal. “KOUSTARY” RUSSIAN NOVELTIES. Unusuai selection Linens, Novelties, Home Decorations. Mail orders. Russian Handicraft Shop, 11 East 45th Street, New York. A rt-Needlework Exclusive italian Linens. Reticello Cutwork cop- ied from classic, antique designs adapted to yey uses. Dinner, Lunch, Tea, Bridge Tray Sets. All’A del Lino, 177 Macdougal St. nr. Washn. Sa., N. Y ENTICING HAND-EMBROIDERY and _ beading on your own material—dresses, suits, and coats. Machine braiding. Beaded gowns repaired. ee: Royal Art Emb. Co., 38 West 34th Street, N.Y.C. Russian Nobility Art Embroidery—Exquisite hand work Russian Refugees. Ladies’ & Children’s dresses. Spring Models. Russian Refugee Work- shop, 106 W. 57th Street, N. ¥. Circle 10163. Auction Bridge W. 96th St., > 2 Private & Lillian Sherman Rice, 231 ‘Auction Bridge in a Nutshell.’ Author * Classes. Game taught in 6 lessons. Also by_mail. Inferences. Concentration a specialty. — 1464 River. YOUR OWN NAME on Bridge Scores. 250 officially ruled sheets, 6x9 in. Your name on each sheet. ~ Postpaid anywhere, $2. Agents. wanted. Beach Company, 904 Sycamore, Cincinnati, O. LIDA FISHER GILDER—140 West 57th Street. Auction Bridge (Whitehead System). Mah Jong. Private and class lessons for oes students. Beginners tutored. Tel. Circle 30: STEPPING STONES to aver AUCTION. Simple rules for beginners & advanced. Modern experts compared. Attractive pocket edition. ie $1. Freda MacMahon, Box 227, Montclair, N. Playing Cards With Your Monogram, 2 a in attractive case, $3.00 ppd. Unusually handsome gift. Monogram bridge scores 4 pads of 25 each, $1.25 ppd. Enelbe Press. Box 466, Springfield, Ohio SHEPARD’S STUDIO, INC., 20 W. 54th St.,N.Y. College of Auction Bridge. Expert personal in- struction for individuals or classes, beginners or advanced players. Special course by mail. Babies Things HAND MADE baby garments by French needle- work artists. Fine materials. Dainty. exquisite. Domestic prices. Infants to 3 years. On approval. Conway’s, 1200 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans. VIRGINIA’S AIR OF REFINEMENT reflected in handmade children’s wear to 3 years. Layettes and French Bonnets specialty. No catalog. On approval. Ideal Baby & Gift Shop, Roanoke, Va. Bazaars INC. A unique gentlewomen who buy and _ sell used clothing at unusual prices. New York, Plaza 5195. LILY’S BAZAAR, Shop owned and managed by women’s slightly 150 East 54th Street, Beads and Beaded Bags POUCH AND MISER BAGS crocheted by hand VEL Su YTERS VOGUE GUIDE A classified list of business concerns which we recommend to the patronage of our readers Shoppers’ & Buyers’ Guide, VOGUE, 19 West Forty-fourth Street, New York. Advertising rates given upon request Beauty Culture—Cont. EYEBROWS & LASHES Darkened with Coloura! Adds winsome expression. permanent ly attractive. Childrew; T hings— Cont. THE CRAWFORD SHOPS, 512 Park Ave., N. Y. Dainty frocks and suits for the Toys. children. Will not wash off. $1.20 ppd. Treatment 50c. at youngsters. Appealing gifts for Spiro’s, 26 West 38th St., & 34 W. 46th St., N. Y. Special Easter Novelties SMALLCLOTHES, GENESEO, Wrinkles? Baume Re d’ion restores by nature's own method youth’s radiant firmness! Made of oils which revitalize skin without contracting it. Call or write. Leona Libbe, 182 W. 58th St., N.Y. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR permanently removed by the painless method originated by Dr. Roebling Geyser, a licensed physician. This is the 14th year of its successful use. No electric needle or chemical used. Booklet sent in plain sealed envelope upon request. Dr. Roebling Geyser. 107 East 35th St., New York City 2001 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. COMPLEXOL—A perfect face cream; corrects skin conditions, eradicates pimples and blackheads. Free sample upon application. Halsey Bros. Co., 111 N. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Til “Original” Mme. Julia Mays, 32 W. 47th St.,N. Y. Face specialist 40 yrs. Permanently Removes Wrin- kles, Freckles, Scars within 10 days. End. by Physi- cians & Patrons. Bkit. Bryant 4856 (No branches). LUCILLE SAVOY TOILETRIES OF QUALITY Blended Shades of Exquisite Poudre beautifying complexions, $1.50 box postpaid. Astor Theatre Bldg. (Times Sq.), N. Y. Chickering 6130. Dorothy Sedley’s Preparations — No wrinkle creme. Feeds & invigorates skin. Quickly removes lines of age. Ends sallow complexions. Price $3.50. Hotel Majestic, West 72nd St., N. Y. CREME AUX MARRONS, Bleaching, Nourish- ing, Beautifying. Made from milk of the big French Chestnuts.By mail . Mme. Helene, 19 East 48th Street, New York. unhealthy End Ave., N. Y., Tel. My. We Picturesque little suits and frocks for well-dressed children. Beautifully made of the best materials at moderate prices. Illustrated description by mail. THE CHILDREN’S SHOP 20 East 46th Street, New York. Tel. 0779. Boys’ suits to 4 years. Girls’ years—From original sketches. "Murray Hill frocks to 14 HUNGARIAN DRESSES for girls from 2 to 10 years. Exquisite Peasant Embroidery, Cross stitch- ing and smocking, $3.50 to $6.00. Assortments on approval. Handwork Shop, Poughke } ’ Florence et ‘‘Félicité”’ “Late with Mossé, In a 693 Madison Ave., N. Rhinelander 7036, announce their new pe & summer models in girls’ dresses, hats, coats, boys’ suits & rompers. JUNIOR SPORT SHOP, INC. 20 West 49th Street, New York. All kinds of sport clothes and complete camp outfits—booklet—Phone Bryant 5460. LITTLE LADY DRESSES from 1 to 14 with dis- tinctive charm. Rompers & Boys’ Suits from 1 to 4, All Custom Made. Hand-colored sketches. Little Lady Dress Co., 133 Middle St., Lowell, Mass. LITTLE GIRLS’ DRESSES & PARTYFROCKS, Distinctive, individual designs, modish materials. Appointment by ‘phone. Florence Brett, 463 West Endicott 9622. Dancing 9 F. 59th St., HELENE L. SWENEY, N. Y. City Expert in Modern Dances, teaching gentlemen to lead; ladies to follow; correcting all faults. Specia Normal Course. Diplomas. Plaza 8612 ETUDE de DANSE Tango—modern—ballroom dances Private or class lessons. Bryant 4562 26 West 47th St. 7.0 STAGE DANCING. Original, mewest dance: taught by Walter Baker, former dancing master for Ziegfeld Follies, Geo. M. Cohan, John Cort and 900-7th Avenue, N. Y¥., Circle 8298. SHELTON DEWEY Modern dance expert and authority. Private or class lessons. By appointment. Madison Ave., N. Y¥., Tel. Murray Hill 5397. MURIEL “ey - gape Teacher of Dance fodern Society Studio, 43 w 46th St., N. Y. Tel. Bryant 4823 Dramatic Art THEODORA IRVINE, Director of ee Players, Teacher of Alice Brady. Approved by Edith Wynne Matthison. A Course in Acting, Oct. 15 to May 31. Studio, 31 Riverside Drive, N. Y. Dillingham. 267 Dress Forms PNEU-FORM—The Gowns fitted without fitted lining, gives exact figure. Pneu-Form, 16 West 46th St., N. Y. Pneumatic Dress Form. personal try-on. Inflated in Fitted Linings. Bryant 5338 Employment Agencies LAZARE eee! INC., 624 MADISON AVE. . (59th St.) Plaza 23. A sentiane ‘ssstitution supplying a discriminating clientele with superior domestic help. LITTLE NATURE FROCKS — featured by the Rembrandt Guild Home of individual a for children 8 West 47th St. Y. , Bryant 7351 oy aXe STUDY HAIRDRESSING, Manicuring and all branches of Beauty work. Have your own profit- able business. New classes now forming. Madame Hudson School of Beauty Culture, Auburn, N. Y. YOUTHFUL FASHIONS, 4 — 40th St., N. Y. A children’s shop of unusual charm. Distinctive children’s and misses’ dresses, dolls, gifts and novelties. toys, SUPERFLUOUS HAIR permanently removed| CHILDREN’S VOGUE is a smart new magazine leaving skin in perfect condition. Physician’s | for mothers about children. It enables children to reference. Call at Rose Hutter’s Salon, 500-5th| be most economically dressed in the smartest Avenue at 42nd St., N.Y., Tel. Longacre 9026.] French and American modes Also it gives mothers carefully selected material to keep their DR. CASNATI, after years of successful practice advises Ferme Derm to restore contour, revitalize muscles & remove wrinkles, $2.00. Corres. & con- sultation invited. 2020 B’way, N. Y. End. 5695. KIRIA CREME needed for beautiful complexion combining all necessary properties $6. Kironglia, a 0 cuticle absorptive and nail beautifier. $1.5) Eliz. Walker, 45 West 49th Street, N. Y. Magic Face Lifter. ACTRESS INVENTION. Restores youthful contour without stretching skin. Matches hair, no wire, no spring, soft & pliable. Sadie MacDonald, 1482 Broadway, Room 609, N. Y. NEW FACE LIFE. A treatment used at home: rejuvenates faces (without cutting) Brochure sent free on request Stackhouse, 347 5th Ave., New York City _ VET TEE WRINKLE ERADICATOR Feeds tissues & will eradicate. Hair Tonic removes dandruff. (Mailed $2 each.) Other Products. Re- quest Booklet. Vel Vet Tee Co., 522-5th Ave., N.Y. Dr. Have Clear Healthy New Skin. YOUTH-AMI Liquid Skin Peel removes oe skin harm- children happy. Games, songs, suggestions for parties, children’s book reviews, doll cut-outs, and all sorts of things that answer the question “‘Mother, what shall I do now?’’ Send your name, address, and $1.00 for five issye Dept. A, Children’s Vogue, 19 ‘West 44th Street New York City. Chintzes THE CHINTZ SHOP 431 Madison Ave., at 49th Street, New York. Everything in Chintz, Linen and Cretonne. Imported & Domestic _ Samples } Submitted. Cigarettes Miss Raenar Fox—100-5th Ave., N. Y. Made-to- order Egyptian cigarettes with your monogram in any device. All _ tips. Exquisite individuality. $12.50 for 500 and $3.00 for 100. Ass’t’d. Sample 30c & N. Y. Polyclinic. The Tricho Institute, presents the perfect method. absolute guarantee. Consultation free, upon request. 244 West 74th St., N. Y. It is backed by an or booklet Bed Quilts Bead bags repaired Bea ads Joe Michel W. 39th St., N. Y. Exclusive Models vee in silks, tapes- BED QUILTS RECOVERED tries, brocades; recoverings a specialty. Send for For homes of taste and refinement Catalog and prices. Schuyler 1518. Wm. Nibur, Hazen Mills (Est. 25 years) Boston. 2432 B’way, N. Y. Branch, 667 Madison Avenue 144 W. 72nd St., N. Y.—739 Boylston St., REPAIRING OF SILK AND BEADED BAGS. Frames for Beaded Bags. Silk bags to order. Catalogue upon request. A. L. Workman, 1 West 34th Street, N. Y. C. Beauty Culture DO YOU KNOW THE MUSCLE in your face which prevents beauty? Learn to exercise it and be young. Ferrol, 200 West 72nd St., N. Y. C. MME MAYS treatments for permanently removing wrinkles, scars, freckles, tightening muscles, given only at my one address, 50 49th St. S A Bryant 9426. Booklet. Physicians’ endorsement. MARINELLO SHOP A Beauty Aid for every need. Marinello Experts in Attendance. Under direct supervision of Marinello Co. MARINELLO Bon Voyage Baskets SOMETHING THRILLING in blue paper and yellow string. That’s what people say about gifts from the Alice H. Marks Shop. Our steamer vanity & convalescent bskts. are unique. 4 W. 50th N. Y. Boudoir Accessories TEA GOWNS, Negligees, Pajamas and Lounge covers. Latest French creations. Large assortment of mules. Prices reasonable. Mlle. Marie, Maison Francaise, 547 Madison Ave., N.Y.C. Plaza 4432. Candies & Delicacies King Cole Vitapakt Shelled Salted Nuts, Vitapack- ing assures a crisp & sweet product for particular hostesses. Almonds or ass’t nuts $1. per tin del’d. E. Smithson Co., Inc., 48 Laight St., N. Y. Western Expert Dept. Eastern Expert Dept. 804 Tower Court Bldg. 366 Fifth Ave., Suite 603 GENUINE RUSSIAN CAVIAR, glass jars, 4 oz. Chicago, Ill. New_York cae co sce yi $5.00, postpaid. tye i A8-SCENT—lIdeal liquid, colorless deodorant. | New York, PN. a aati, pais ees a orsign Destroys odors armlessly. cannot irritate. All stores or direct “ 5) : by mail 50c. Madame Berthe, 562-5th Ave., N.Y. Children s Things MME. JULIAN’S HAIR DESTROYER perma-| TOT’S TOGGERIE, 634 - 5th Ave. Tel. Circle nently eradicates all supertiuous hair (with roots). | 9708-9709. Outfitters to Children of all ages. No electricity or poison. Stood test 50 years. Mme. Julian 14 West 47th St., N. Y. SAGGING FACES LIFTED PERFECTLY. Wrinkles smoothed out, contour restored at once. Device worn concealed by hair. Book V free. The Faceaid Studios, 1482 Broadway, New York. Coats and Hats Made to Order a Specialty. Charming Styles and Superior Workmanship. lessly, painlessly. Booklet free. Youth-Ami Labo- 4 ; ratories. Dept. VS. 30 East 20th St., N. Y. Cleaning & Dyeing Permanent Removal of Superfluous Hair.| KNICKERBOCKER Cleaning & Dyeing Co. After 25 years of painstaking research by a famous | High class ay and dyers. Main vr 402 E. specialist formerly professor at Cornell, Fordham | sist St., N. Y. Branch offices in N. Y. City, also White Plains, New Rochelle, Newport & Paris. LEWANDOS—Cleaners—Dyers Largest in America Established in 1829 10 West 48th Street, New York LEWAN OS—Cleaners—Dyers 284 Boylston Street, Boston 1901 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia Shops in all large Eastern Cities Expert Cleaning, Hand or Machine Made wool sweaters by special process. No cleaning fluids. Mail orders received. 24 hr. service. A, Hopkins, 25 W. 75th St., N. ¥. Endicott 7823. Corsets and Brassiéres MME. s. SCHWARTZ—Now 36 W. 57th St., . Y., formerly 11 East 47th Street. Custom aie and all novelties in Corsets for the Woman of Fashion. GOSSARD FRONT LACED CORSETS FITTED by experienced corsetiéres, $359 up. ——_ only Brassiéres fitted. Phone Ashland 6642, Olmstead Corset Co. 179 Madison Ave., at 34th St. GOSSARD | Corset Fitting Parlor, 601 Mad. . Ave., Y., at 57th St. Fitted by Gossard Corsetiére at Corsets to order. Mail orders by Plaza 4949. DeRohan, Prop. shop or residence. measurement solicited. IF YOU MUST REDUCE, adopt the famous Margaret Lillie corset. Custom made. Reduces hips 3 to 7 inches or no charge made. Only one shop, 47 W. 42nd St., New York. Longacre 9012. LOUISE GREENWOOD — CORSET EXPERT French Domestic & Elastic Corsets Copied. Made to order. Remodeled, copied & cleaned. Mail corset or_ estimate. 500-5th Ave., N. Y. Longacre 8173. NO STRAPS! Fen-Lin Brassiére big day and_sportwear leading New York stores At Style & Price List, 587 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Damages on Clothing Made Invisible NANA, LTD. 24 East 66th Street, New York Infants’ and Children’s Dresses made to individual order. MOTH-HOLES, Tears, Burns on garments made invisible by re-weaving. Shine on clothing perma- nently removed. Guarantee Damage Weaving Co., 146-5th Ave., bet. 19th & 20th Sts., N. Y. Entertainment Children’s Entertainment Bureau. Let us take charge of your children’s party, plan, furnish enter- tainers, do your shopping, decorating & amusing 70 East 45th St., N. Y. Rm. 2636, Mur. Hill 4043 MAGIC TRICKS—PUNCH & JUDY SHOW The greatest funmaker for parties, presented by one of New York’s best Children’s Entertainers. Chas. Winters, 1433 Lex. Ave., N. Y. Lenox 6672 SUGGESTIONS FOR THE HOSTESS. Parties, planned for grown-ups & tiny tots. Novel favors, prizes & menus. All orders given individual atten- tion. Lenette Friedlander, 68 E. 86th St., N. Y. Fancy Dress and Costumes “PRIZE WINNING COSTUMES” Modern—F antastic—Period For Rent or Sale—To Order or From Stock. Bayer- Schumacher, 67-69 W. 46th St., N. Y., Bryant 1834 BROADWAY THEATRICAL COSTUME CO. Original Ideas for Bal-Masque Costumes to order or for rent Telephone Bryant 3440 116 W. 48th St., BROOKS MAHIEU, 1437 B’WAY, N. Y. (40-41 Sts.), who costume most Broadway shows, have opened a rental department, 11,000 world’s most beautiful costumes to choose from.(Tel. 5580 Penn.) A. KOEHLER & CO., 249 W. 42nd St., N. Y. C. Tel. Chickering 3088; artistic and original models for the Bal-Masque and pageant. An extraordinary collection of historical & genuine national costumes. FRANCESCA TEXTOR-foremost authority on his- toric & modern costuming is now planning costumes for Spring & Summer festivities. Call or write. 116 West 49th St., N. Y., Bryant 4335. Flesh Reduction FAT OFF ANY PART OF THE BODY and correct your figure at home without diet or medicine. Only $7.00. Dr. Savage Institute, 253 Madison Ave., New York Vanderbilt 8593. SUPERFLUOUS FLESH REDUCED by modern scientific method, without payment until reduction if desired. Dr. R. Newman, Licensed Physician, 286 Fifth Ave., (near 30th St.) New York City. A BOOKLET BY DR. DENSMORE on treatment for reduction of Corpulency will be mailed without charge upon request to Dept. “H’”’ Garfield Tea Co. oe eS 313 41st Street Brooklyn, N. Y. Marvelous new way to take off unsightly fat. Ambassador Method secret of American & Parisian beauty. Specialists work on new principle. Amazing results.Mme. Jeanette,Dept. C.,249 W. 34 St., N.Y. Florence Woodley—Electro Reducing Scientific Electrical Treatment. Endorsed by leading physi- cians. Results quick, absolutely safe. No pain or semi-starvation. Van. 2340, 507-5th Ave., ¥. WONDERFUL NEW TREATMENT beauty, youthful figure, vigor and health. Colon irrigation. Results guaranteed. Finlandia Health Studio, 11 East 45th St., N. Y. Tel. Mur. Hill 3068. BLANCHE ARRAL, famous Grand Opera star, tells how she reduced her flesh without drugs, dieting or exercising. te for free book. Me Blanche Arral, Inc., Dept. N., 509-5th Ave., N. Y CREME NUFORM applied regularly reduces su- perfluous flesh, giving positive results benefiting the skin, leaving jt firm and pliable. Sold in $3 and $6 jars. Creme Nuform, 662 pee Ave., N.Y. c Genuine GLUTEN FLOUR U. S. Standard, 44 pe cent protein. 3 lb. pkg. postpaid $1.10. illustrated Diabetic and Diatetic Booklet on request. Hygienic Foods Company, 235 West 42nd St., N. Y. natu- EAT ALL YOU DESIRE AND REDUCE Our latest book $2.00 mm F. rally, keeping vigorously healthy. Ross Publishing Co., 23 E. 22nd Street, restores gives the proper food combinations.

Page 39

". City. men to Specia)

take iter- ing. 1043 672

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reasonable. Irene Franks, April Bae) 33

Furniture & Furnishings for Homes Hearing Devices Maids Uniforms Shoes and Custom Shoes—Cont.

WILKINSON HAND MADE ART QUILTS. Ideal trousseau gifts. Made only on order. Finest

materials used. Illustrated booklet V sent on request. Wilkinson Sisters, Ligonier, Ind. Furs FURS & COATS REMODELED. Yours are We will alter them to fit Satisfaction assured. To. B... N.Y. SC. probably good as new. next season’s modes. i Richard Koppen, 156 West THE ——o, — Reg. Ss. Non-electric a pt ofa. Invisible. No Batteries No Wires Worn by women under their hair. Special instru- ments for men. Booklet Sent Upon Request. Address F. Charles Rein & Son, r ieee Inc. Dept. J. New York, N. 71 West 35th Street,

Hemstitching, Plaiting, Buttons

Gowns Bought MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 670, will buy your misfit or slightly used street and evening dresses, suits, wraps, etc. Highest cash value. Satisfactory service to patrons at a distance. 69 W.45th St.,N.Y. WE PAY CASH For Slightly Used or Discarded Gowns, Suits, Wraps, Furs, Diamonds, Jewelry, Silverware, Antiques, etc. Highest Prices—Guaranteed Unlimited Capital at our Disposal. Consult us First before you Sell. Bank and Society References. Write, ‘Phone, Call or Send. Furman, 101 W. 47th St., N. Y. Telephone Bryant 1376 MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant ¢

Mme.

Bryant 670, pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used eve! & street frocks, furs, diamonds, jewelry, silverware. 69 West 45th Street, New York Gowns & Blouses Made to Order The gown you buy and seldom wear is the really expensive gown. Gloves, sleeves, hats, that miss being exactly what you want are the ones that cost more than you can afford. — dollars, invest- ed in Vogue will save you $200. A tiny fraction of your loss on a single ill-chosen gown, if invested in Vogue, will enable you to be much better dressed for less money....A special introductory subscrip- tion rate offers you 10 issues of this most interest- ing fashion authority for $2.00—Just ., your name, address and two dollars to—Dept. — 19 West 44th Street, New York cit

Gowns & Blouses Made to Order THE MISSES CURRAN will make you street and evening gowns and blouses for all occasions and also do remodeling *. reasonable prices. 134 Lexington Ave. (29th St.), N. Y. Mad. Sq. 8188 MME. MARTHA makes Tee of unusual charm to suit your individual taste, at moderate prices. Also remodelling. 129 East 60th Street, N. Y. Tel. Regent 2895. MARGUERITE B. KELLENS makes smart street suits—dainty evening & afternoon gowns. Fine work. Remodeling like new. Prompt attention to mail orders. 143 W. 69th St., N. Y. End. 9558. MY CHARMING AFTERNOON FROCKS, built to your individual order of newest material & latest modes at $75. Please the most discrimi- nating. Atalanta Homer, Ltd., 37 W. 48th St., N.Y. Cc. B. REED. Fashions of the day adapted to your individuality. Gowns made to order $50 upward. Debutantes’ Gowns $40 upward. 61 West 55th Street, N. Y. Circle 3347 DRESSMAKER formerly fitter with a Fifth Avenue

establishment offers her services to the stylish woman. The stout a penne. Rosa Frank, 347 E. 57th St., N. Y. C., Plaza 2364.

Gowns Remodeled “THE MENDING SHOP.’’ Gowns Tailored, Suits

Remodeled up-to-date. Shop Blouses and’ Gowns Refitted. Miss H. Redding Coughlin, 17. E, 48th Y. No Branches. Phone 5062 Mur. Hill St., N.

. & S. MEARES will remodel your old gowns in the latest and advanced styles. Also se to order. Original ideas. 134 West 81st St., N. Y. Tel. Schuyler: 1995. MY RE-BUILDING OF SaWNS 1S THE TALK of New York, because I make creations out of gowns that seem hopeless. Prices reasonable. Atalanta Homer, Ltd., 37 W. 48th St., N. Y., Bry. im Hair Coloring IF YOUR HAIR: IS TURNING GREY or has lost any of its loveliness, consult Maison Alex, who specializes in hair coloring. 105 West 43rd Street, N. Y. Bryant 5556 PREMATURELY GREY HAIR RESTORED with one application of André’s Oriental Coloring. Gives the hair a soft, glossy, youthful appearance. Price $2.00. André, 16 East 37th Street, New York. WHY HAVE GREY OR FADED HAIR. B. Paul’s Henna. Composed pulverized Henna; Herbs. Will not rub off. 14 shades. Harmless- Shop applications Postpaid $1.60. B. Paul, 21 W. 39th St., N. Y. Hair Goods MANUEL—The originator of the Modern Trans- formation and Sight-Proof Parting. Specialist in all kinds of hair goods. Booklet on request. Manuel, 29 East 48th St., N. Y. C. TO REST YOUR HAIR, and for added charm wear a Transformation with the life-like parting, as developed by Louis Parme. 18 West 57th St., N. Y. Phone Circle 4956.

Buttons Covered, Hemstitching, Plaiting. Hem- stitching; plain, picot edge, zigzag, curves. Buttons; customer’s own material. Plaiting all styles. Mail order catalog. Sadleir, 17 W. 34th St., N. Y. 425 Sth Av., N. Y. Nurses’ Outfitting Ass’n, Caps, 25c up. Dresses, $4.50 up. Aprons, 75c to $8.50. Coats, $42.50 up. Hats, $8.50 up. Catalog ‘‘V’’ on request. SHORT VAMP SHOES (Trade Mark) from — Ca to order. First French Boot Shop America. Established a, William wasn 6 West 37th St., N. Y. Booklet.

STELLA D. KISCH, 20 W. 49th STREET, N. Y. Nurses’ Uniforms and Beauty Parlor Aprons.. All styles and sizes always in stock. Send for Catalogue N. Maternity Apparel RETAIN YOUR FIGURE by wearing Miller’s exclusive maternity gowns. Booklet & samples of designs & materials sent on request. Mme. Miller, 309-5th Avenue, Suite 302, New York.

Hosiery Repaired = Specialize = REPAIRING French Sheer hose. Runs & Pull Threads repaired on all makes of silk hosiery, & made to look like new. Lenox Hosiery Repair Service, 2 West 47th St., t # Interior Decorators & Decorations Laura Wand, Consulting Decorator helps express your ideas in Home Decorating. Long experience in shopping & many wholesale accounts lend econ- omy to her art, 49 W. 44th St., N. Y. Vand. 061 JANE WHITE LONSDALE Consulting Decorator Demonstration Apartment 114 East 40th Street, N. Y. C. ow Hill 2991. WHOLESALE ONLY—Miniature French Lamps also Ornamental French Figures suitable for boudoir lamps. Hall House, Charles Hall, Inc. 3 East 40th Street, New York Do You Like te Play House?..The game of making your home more comfortable and more attractive! House & Garden is the mag- azine that shows you how in a most fascinating way. It is a handsome publication, presenting in a clear and a practical way the ideas of the leading architects, interior decorators, landscape gardeners, and household economists. Really, you should send in your name, and address for the introductory subscription offer of 5 months for $1.00 —Dept. A, House & Garden 19 West 44th Street, "Hew York City.

Jewelry and Precious Stones FRANK C. HUTCHINSON BUYS DIAMONDS, precious stones and individual pieces of jewelry or jewelry estates to be settled. Expert appraising. 344 Madison Ave., N. Y. C., opp. Hotel Biltmore. RANDOLPH J. TRABERT CO., Formerly with Black, Starr & Frost, Jewel Brokers & Authorized Appraisers. Jewels purchased from estates & private parties. Guaranty Trust Bldg.,Rm. 506, 522-5th Av. ESTATES AND RESPONSIBLE PERSONS wish- ing to dispose of jewels can do so privately and to the best advantage at 542-5th Avenue Rooms 50-51. 5th Floor, Bechet & Barclay. THE WOMAN JEWELER—Specializes in fine gems, settings and repairs. Express your personal-

BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSETS, Belts and Brassiéres. Exclusive and invisible en- largement feature. Dress as usual. Write for booklet No. 14. Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York. May’s Maternity Dresses, Layettes Exclusive models at reasonable prices. Write for Season’s portfolio No. 14. Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., Now York. MAURICE & ADAMS 23 West 50th Street, New York Maternity gowns ready-made & made-to-order “The Queen,’’ England, says they are perfection.

Berthe

Memorials MEMORIALS FOR EVERY PURPOSE. In granite, marble, bronze and glass. Individual con- sideration. Sketches upon request. State require- ments. The Davis Memorial Co., Syracuse, N. Y

Miscellaneous Introspective CHARACTER READING from Hand- writing. ‘Take a Journey into the Personal & Know Thyself.’’ Send five lines of writing = - 00. Agatha W. Pettee, Saratoga Springs, N. ONE REFINED WOMAN in each tie is offered by the Condé Nast Publications, an oppor- tunity to make money in an agreeable way. This is not the usual magazine agency proposition, but an exceptional opportunity for the right sort of woman. If interested, write Mr. John Ramsey, Condé Nast Publications. 19 West 44th St., New York City.

Monograms and Woven Names CASH’S WOVEN NAMES for marking clothing, household & hotel linen, etc. Write for styles and prices. J. & J. Cash, Inc., 622 Chestnut St., So. Norwalk, Conn. England, France, Australia, Canada

MONOGRAMS for bridal outfits & individual pieces; Sketches submitted. Linens for all pur- poses also made to order. Florence et —*, 693 Mad. Ave., N. Y. Late with Mossé, Rhine. 7036 Mourning Apparel ARTHUR MULLEN — 19 E. 49th St, N. Y. Mourning and Stunning Black Hats, Veils, Gowns, Blouses and Bags.

ity in your jewelry. Purchases made abroad. Olga Tritt; Heckscher Bldg., 730-5th Ave., N.Y. Plaza _2698 Diamonds, Pearls, Gold, Silver, Platinum, alse ° Pledges bought. Estates Appraised, Purchased. Music Rose & Co., Suites 63-64, 542 Fifth Ave., (45th St.) New York. Tel. Vanderbilt 1022. MRS. T. LYNCH’S SON buys diamonds, pearls, old gold, jewelry and silverware. Oldest house in New York. We specialize in buying silver. Estab- lished 1844. 227 W. 42nd St., N.Y. Chickering 1439. HIGHEST PRICES PAID for Diamonds, Watches, Pearls, discarded jewelry, etc. Money wired within two hours. Bank references. Detroit Gold Refiners, 402 Capitol Theatre Bldg., Detroit, Mich. WE BUY DIAMONDS, single pieces of — En jewelry estates. Expert appraising. "Tie Fork W. L. ba 347-5th Ave., at 34th St., Room 01 Telephone Ashland 6274

Jewelry and Silverware Bought CASH FOR JEWELRY, Diamonds, Gems, Gold, Silver, new or broken. Prices now exceptionally high. Established 40 a <i Mme. Naftal.

69 West 45th St., New York. Tel. Bryant 670. Diamonds, Pawn Tickets, Jewelry Bought. Cash paid immediately. Appraising Free. Confidential. Forgotston, 1,600 B’way, N. E. cor. 48th St., N. Y.

Knitting Yarns FINEST QUALITY YARNS. fashionable colors. Soft, smooth, beautiful. Send for 120 actual samples free. Peace Dale Mills, Dept. 656, 25 Madison Ave., N.Y. Ladies’ Tailors J. TUZZOLI, 27 West 46th St., N. Y., makes a suit for $65. which cannot be duplicated under $125. Quality ‘& material faultless in make & fit. Spring models now’ ready. Furs remodeled. SPORT CLOTHES of distinction. White, linen, ten- nis skirts, 3 for $35.00. Sport suits $60.00, at least $95.00 elsewhere. Special attention to out-of-town customers. Coppola, Vincent & Co., 28 W. 48th St.

Unusual range of

Linens

Hair and Scalp Treatment WALDEYER & BETTS—Scalp Specialists. Ex- pert advice m4 scientific treatment ot hair and scalp 5 Fifth Avenue, N. c. 43° ee Godot de Mauroy, Paris “BEAUTIFUL HAIR by common sense methods.”’ Scientific! Simple! Sure! Send for new free book. Ogilvie Sisters, Scalp Specialists. 505 Fifth Avenue, Dept. X, New York PETROSUL, Russian formula—odorless. Makes the hair grow, gives a beautiful lustre and keeps it from turning grey. Jars $1.00 and $2.00. Bertha L. Schad, 536 East 79th St., N. Y. Hats

HIGH GRADE DAMASK LINENS at % cost of usual store prices. Specialty 20 x 36 in. Damask towels only $12. doz.. Send for Catalog. National Shopping Bureau, 505-5th Avenue, N. Y.

Lingerie & Laces BRIDAL SETS—TROUSSEAUX. Lingerie of best quality and style, hand-made, with real Valen- ciennes and other fine laces. Moderately priced. M. Collart 23 E. 54th St., N. Y. DAINTY Silk LINGERIE hand-made & embroid- ered, imported from Vienna & Paris. Also exclusive imported Easter novelties. By appointment. Lisa des Renaudes, 51 W. 52nd St., N. Y. Circle 1008. Mah Jong

WELL KNOWN PRIMA DONNA will accept a few select pupils in voice culture & coaching for opera & concert. ‘‘Unquestionably one of the best sopranos I have ever heard’’—Enrico Caruso. “A consummate artiste with an extraordinary voice of rare quality’’—Pasquale Amato Address Sec’y Miss Ford, 182 Madison Ave. N.Y.C. Phone Ashland 6543

Patterns PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE from_illustra- tions, description of medel. Fit guaranteed. Special attention to mail orders. Mrs eisz, 111 Lexington Avenue, at 28th ‘Street, New York.

Permanent Hair Wave ROBERT—Permanent Hair Waving like a Marcel Jeune Garcon Hair Cut, Hair Tinting, Hair Goods, Manicuring, etc., 675 Fifth Avenue. at 53rd Street, Plaza 1533-0684. CALL AT SCHAEFFER’S if you want expert personal attention for a permanent wave. Positively no friz or ki J.Schaeffer, 590-592-5th Av.,N.Y. Tel. “Bryant 7615.

NESTLE’S Originators of Lanoil Waving. World- Famous Experts. 12 and 14 East 40th: St., New York. Phone.: Vanderbilt 7660- 7661.

MY SPECIALTY PERMANENT LARGE WAVE At last, white hair wayed without making it yellow. obbed hair all’ in ringlets. J. Hallo 36 East 48th St., N.Y. Vanderbilt 5241. MARIO & FREDERICK, INC. Permanent Wave Specialists:’ Personal attention. The result being the Sapitoate of a large natural wave. 17 East 48th’ St., Y.. Vanderbilt 6397. PAUL—Quality Work. “Personal Service. White Hair a Specialty. No Kink, No Friz. Oil or Steam Waves. 586 Fifth Avenue, N.° Y. Phone Bryant 9964. LOUISE BERTHELON 7 years with Nestle’s Permanent waving properly understood and artistically done at reasonable prices. 48 East 49th Street, N. Y. Murray Hill 2768.

Prints & Frames KENRESY & CO., 693 Fifth Ave., New York Fine Sporting and Naval Prints. Rare Old and Modern Etchings. Americana suitable for Colonial Homes. ARTISTIC FRAMING OUR SPECIALTY A large assortment of framed mirrors, pictures, gifts and art novelties at remarkably low" Relese N.

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Shoes and Custom Shoes

Shopping Commissions

MISS EDITH V. STOVEL, member of the Asso- ciated Purchasing Agents of New Ras. will shop for or with you in leading shop No charge. 98 Morningside Ave., N. Y., Tel. Morningside 7022. MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLING

Purchasing ~~ Accompanying _out-of-tewn patrons. N rge. References. Coanerenine. Tel. Endivott 4 4198 155 W. 78th St., N. Y.

MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York aap, will shop with Pee or send anything to you. ; Send fer bulletin Services free. 6 Fifth Avenue, New York.

“BEAUTIFUL THINGS | SEE” — Write for Free Fashion Letter with list of bargains. Shops free for or with you saving time and money. Irene Stephens, 144 East 37th Street, New York. BLANCHE ADLER—Formerly of the South, will accompany out-of-town patrons. Services gratis. Personal attention given mail orders. References re- quired. Now at 10 E. 43d St., N. Y. Tel. Van. 2360. DIRECT CONNECTION with smart New Yori Shops. Our staff shops for or with you. Mail orders solicited. Send for circular. National Shopping Bureau, 505-5th “Ave., _. ERSONAL ESCORT IN PARIS EB, around French capital. Mrs. C. M. Benson, % Farmers Loan & Trust Co. 3 Rue d’Antin, Paris, France.

House Furnishings & Decorations, a specialt er = = wih, ee, ee — “Abe eneral shopp: — 145 West 105th St., N. Y. Academy 2253 =

INDIVIDUAL SHOPPING SERVICE—no charge. We will buy for you and for your home. References required. Murray Hill 4266. Mrs. Gordon Abbett, Ine., 52 Vanderbilt Ave., N. Y.

Silks

FRUTCHEY SILK SHOP, 574 Fifth Ave, N. Y. Mr. Frutchey (for 30 years a style authority) gladly sends samples of silks, perscnally selected for any purpose. Here your patronage is appreciated. Save-A-Third, Crepe de Chine, $2. yd. (Elsewhere $3). Supreme for Lingerie & garments that require frequent washing. 25 shades. Samples F'ree.

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Tea Rooms NEW YORK’S MOST POPULAR TEA ROOMS Vanity Fair, 4 West 40th Street

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BERTHA TANZER, Station F, Box 2, B’klyn, N. Y. Send 2c stamp for my little catalog V., illus- trating many charming novelties that appeal to those who seek the unusual.

GIFTS OF UNUSUAL MERIT, quaint odd originalities, gathered from all over the world. Catalog for trade only. Kena Rosenthal, 520 Madison Ave., mr. 53rd St., N. Y. Wedding Stationery 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $13.50 or invitations hand-engraved. 2 sets of envelopes, Calling Cards, $2.75. Write for sampies. V. Ott Engraving Co., 1044 Chestnut St., Phila, Pa.

SHOECRAFT SHOP ‘‘fits the narrow heel’’ in sizes 1-10, AAAA to E, French and English models in street and evening footwear. Send for Catalog Vs. Fit Guaranteed. 714-5th Ave., New York. Engraved weating Invitations & Announcements. Everett Waddey Co. has for generations insured highest entity” at reasonable prices, del. 00K Wedding Etiquette Free. 5 S. 11 St., Richmond, Va.

REMODELER OF HATS “A Hat of Yesterday” —redesigned into a ‘‘last word’’ creation. Smart new Hats to order. Mail Orders a_ specialty. am 37 W. 48th St., MAH JONG SET in attractive box $1.00. Com- plete with instructions, illustrations & rules. 144 Characters, 152 counters, dice & score card. Oriental Importing Co., 110 W. 40th St., N. Y. JACK’S SHOE SHOP (Creators) 154 West 45th St., N. Y., Opp. Lyceum Theatre. oe turn to Jack’s for style index of wedding ‘ootwear. SUPERIOR ENGRAVING CO., Wedding Invita- Prices tions for Announcements. Wholesale Guaranteed hand engraved. Highest Quality. Write for samples. 610 E. Main St., Richmond, Va. INVITATIONS AND ANNOUNCEMENTS

Ladies’ HATS REMODELED into latest ie or copied from Vogue. Straw, Milan, Felt, Silk, etc. also cleaned, dyed newest shades. Hats — Ostrich renovated. Neumann, 24 E. 4th St., N.

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Engraved in the very latest — Write fer samples and prices. Prompt Servi: Virginia Stationery Co., Dept. V., ‘Richmond, Va.

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34 NEW YORK The new Knox sailor illustrated by Helen Dryden comes in Black, Brown, Navy and the leading shades of the season. The trimming is of belting ribbon. The price, $18.00. You will find Agents for Knox Women’s Hats in all principal cities. KNOX TH the return to vogue of the sailor hat, Knox again proves its claim as style leader. The fame of Knox sailor hats has long been abroad in the land, and the new designs now showing, while modestly priced, fully measure up to the Knox reputation. KNOX HAT COMPANY 452 Fifth Avenue 161 Broadway 51 Grant Avenue New York City New York City San Francisco

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April 15 35 O YOU KNOW ... ? If not, the next issue of Vogue will tell you. Do you know what’s smarter than the tailored suit for the street? Do you know how the new, straight, long coat differs from that other straight, long coat that all of us wore last year? Do you know which of the great creators is making capes, as well as coats—and what they’re like? Do you know how short the skirt of a boyish frock may be—and what one wears in place of such a dress if one is described as dignified rather than piquant? Do you know about the new georgette coat lined with chiffon? Do you know the status of black in the colour mode? And the place of navy-blue? And white? And Titian beige? Can you use lacquer-red with the required subtlety? Do you know how to choose and wear a sleeveless the sands of time and invaded the mode? Do you know just how far the Directoire mode has gone—and where it stops? Do you know about gloves? And what white gloves are in again? But only for one special purpose—do you know what that pur- pose is? Do you know about shoes—for the tailored suit, the ensemble, the country, the evening? Do you know what has happened to the white stocking? Do you know whether para- sols will be carried this summer, and whether they will be plain or gaily coloured? Do you know the new bags—their shapes and uses? Do you know the chic jewellery and the many interesting ways it may be worn. If you pass this test with a hundred per cent. rating, you are probably a Parisienne, a psychic, or just returned from Europe. If you feel you’ve failed and are a bit nervous about it, you are the usual alert-minded American who frock even if your arms aren’t good? And if you won’t be sleeveless, do you know what you must be? Do you know what the ostrich is doing since he removed his head from Table Decorations New York Fashions Philippe Ortiz, European Director. OGUE is published on the first and the fifteenth of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc. New York: 19 West 44th Street. Cable address: Vonork London: Aldwych House, Aldwych, London, W. C. 2, England. Cable Address: Volon Paris: 2 7 Edward VII., Paris, France. Seen in the Shops able address: Vopar ‘ 7 ing-Tabl Condé Nast, President; Francis L. Wurzburg, Vice-President; On H er Dr essing Table w. Beckerle, Treasurer; . Moore, Secretary; Edna Sasi... ee Ss Woolman Chase, Editor; Heyworth Campbell, Art Director; What The y Reed... Manuscripts must be accompanied by postage for their Contents for April 15, 1924 PARIS FASHIONS NUMBER Cover Design by Pierre Brissaud Vogue’s-Eye View of the Model. . ... H. H. Princess Youssoupoff While the Mannequins Pass . . . . 30-43, 132 Pins TGS... ss oe 44-45 Paris Holds up the Mirror to Fashion AGO eee Cae Ieee . 46-56,1 34-136 The Chic American Shoe ....... 57-59 Three Spring Weddings . 60 A Mask of Summer for the Winter Room 61-63 Américaines et Parisiennes The Hon. Mrs. Richard Norton .... 66 Editorial: A Little Off the U pright Recent Portraits of Beautiful Women Seen on the Stage. . . puree Dace ei cee de 70-71 Smart Springtime Accessories from Paris 70-77 A Guide to Chic for the Stout Older Woman 78-79 Smart Sweaters Darned in Filet Patterns . 82 Youth Follows Jack Tar. Vogue Designs for the Seamstress . .. . knows enough to know when she doesn’t know and where to get what she needs—and that is in the New York Fashions number of Vogue—on the newstands on April 25th. od . . . Frontispiece - 64-65 : 67 . - 68-69 - 72-73 74-75 . . 80-81 ae yeltiar =e, Ja e 83 cheque, draft, or postal or express money order. Other re- 84-88 mittances at sender's risk. 4 ey ke Ge 90 Change of Address.—The address of subscribers can be 2 changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please SE Bo Hwee SO 9 give both the new address and the name and address exactly for a new subscription. Subscriptions for the United States, Panama Canal Zone, Porto Rico, Hawaii, Canada, and the Philippines, $5 a year in advance. Single copies, 35 cents. For other countries, subscription prices will be furnished on request. Remit by Ii2 as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. Four weeks’ notice is required for changing an address or return if unavailable. Vogue assumes no responsibility for unsolicited contributions cama to accord them courteous attention and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless the drawings are sent at the order of Vogue or by arrangement with its New York office. Title Vogue registered in the U. S. Patent Office Copyright, 1924, by the Condé Nast Publication, Inc. VOL. NO. 63 NO. 8 WHOLE NO. 1237 Entered as second-class matter February 16, 1910, at the Post Office at New York, N. Y., under the act of March 3, 1879; also entered as second-class matter at the Post Office at nano Conn. Printed in the U. S. A. Cable Address: onork.

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Six-cylinder, Four-passenger Sport Touring The Standard of Comparison MALL wonder that the woman who drives a Buick six cylinder Sport Touring car feels a thrill of pride whenever she refers to “my car’’. Its driving qualities are as conspicuous as its graceful lines and sparkling ap- pearance. The automatically lubricated 70 H. P. Buick valve-in-head engine provides a flexibility, smooth- ness and power that makes every drive an occasion of more than ordinary pleasure. And safety is always assured by the presence of Buick four-wheel brakes. a ie Oe otk Oi Cee WHEN BETTER AUTOMOBILES ARE BUILT, BUICK WILL BUILD THEM BUICK MOTOR COMPANY, F unt, MICHIGAN Division cf General Motors Corporation Pioneer Builders of Valve-in-Head Motor Cars Branchesin All Principal Cities—Dealers Everywhere

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UE April 15 Have you looked at Lydia, on pages 78 and 79, with an attentive eye? If you are not yet Lydia m the too, too solid flesh, file her away against the dread day, for her philosophy is eternal even if the models she chooses are but of the moment. The next type to be considered in Vogue’s series is the tall, dark, striking débutante who looks older and more sophis- ticated than her years. Will the article please the débutante? Or her mother? Both! While bobbed hair seldom carries a head-dress, women with long hair may wear anything from the stately diadem in diamonds to the double twist of chiffon in two colours that—paradoxically—is so youth- fully lovely with white hair Mah jong is causing great excite- ment in Paris. One smart countess has a set made of jade; the dice are of blond tortoise-shell marked with diamonds this season are both extremely smart and very wearable. There is a smooth beauty of line, a perfection of detail, a logic, and fitness about them that satisfy the modern soul. They are the inevitable expression of supreme sophistication. Or: must agree with Vogue’s editors that the clothes of F one judged by the silhouette above, one would see no difference between this year and last year, since the mode is a progression rather than a revolution. The beltless dress is continued. Where belts occur, they are placed at the top of the hip. The tailored frock and those of the garconne type are good. The circular movement with flat back and full front has been retained. “As you were,” says Paris, and the world sighs with relief. HERE is one innovation, however—the Directoire. The wearing of this is still in the nature of a possibility. Dressmakers, indeed, have proposed; but, in such cases, it is the chic Parisienne herself who disposes. And, so far, she has not revealed her mind. Should she decide to take up the new tendency, it will mean an overthrow of existing govern- ment—the guillotine for the ruling line. Even corsets will be affected, to say nothing of accessories, hats, and manners. In the next issue, Vogue will show you some of the models that the dressmaker has chosen. ITH the retention of the straight line, however, there has sprung up the loveliest and most amazing crop of new accessories to keep the fickle mind _ content. Their importance can scarcely be exaggerated—new jewellery, new hats, new pins for hats; the list is endless. The new steel beads, for example, that look like silvered pearls; these threaten 1o create a furore for themselves that will rival the furore of the gold slave bracelet. The length of the necklace, as one sees it on page 77, is neither the tight choker that is still worn, nor the familiar long string, but an interesting compromise. OGUE can not too often urge upon its readers the in- creasing importance of keeping the woman as near per- fection as nature and her masseuse have rendered pos- sible. In the days of furbelows, a bit of exaggeration covered a multitude of sins in contour. In these days of stark simplicity, an extra inch, an extra ounce, an extra wrinkle may render the whole effect null and void. She must study herself—compare herself with Vogue’s sketches. Eternal vigilance is the price of smartness. And quite half the vigilance must concern itself with preserving that living youth without which even the greatest creations of youthful fabrics are but as wind in the desert. THE EDITOR 37 The woman who is not slender may wear the unadorned straight sil- houette if her figure is in proportion and she does not pull the frock tight at any point. The model at the left on page 46 will be good for her. If, however, her hips are disproportionately large, nothing but a model with movement below the waist can disguise the fact. The dress at the right on page 51 with its half-circular trimming, will be graceful and effective. As for all models that are described as boyish, Vogue feels that only the very slender type of older woman should attempt the gargonne mode. But, alas, the advice will not be taken where it is needed most! Lace is the most gracious fabric in the world, adding more charm to youth and giving even to age a softness and a beautiful ease of movement. This year, lace is very good indeed, and the woman who is no longer either young or slender can not do better than choose one of the lace dresses on page 75 Scarfs will be everywhere, especially in the evening, when they often reach the dimensions and the réle of a wrap. Not only is such a mode smart and economical, bui it is destined to solve the problems of the woman whose figure is un- graceful. Magic may be wrought with a scarf, worn in the way one needs it most!

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38 VOGUE Steichen HER HIGHNESS PRINCESS YOUSSOUPOFF Princess Youssoupoff, who was, before her marriage, the Grand Duchess Irina of Russia, is the daughter of the Grand Duke Alexander Michaelovitch and is, through her mother, Princess Xenia, a niece of the late Czar. Prince and Princess Youssoupoff, who have been spending the winter in New York, have been in- defatigable in their efforts on behalf of their dis- tressed countrymen, The series of Russian balls, at the Hotel Lorraine, in New York, for the Russian Refugee Relief Society, were under the patronage of Prince and Princess Youssoupoff

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April 15 “VOGUC: VIONNET (Right) In a _ frock of flowered chiffon, the leitmotif consists of points. The beltless skirt is made of pointed pieces, and the pa- goda sleeves join the collar in points PARIS, February roth to 15th and the most seductive in the world. I have just seen most of the new collections of the dressmakers, and I find myself bewildered before the truly astonishing originality of these creators, who, for the most part, have kept the exterior lines of the costumes straight, short, and very simple, leaving it to the details—either in the embroidery or arrangement of the pleats—to prove them to be something new. Without doubt, women are going to retain as long as possible the scanty, straight line, in which it is hard for them to walk— as difficult, indeed, as though they had been slipped into a stovepipe—; I could cite you a countless number of charming dresses on this order, but I must warn you that it is an in- disputable fact that we are moving towards an era of fulness which, while it will not reach its consummation even by next season, becomes a little more accentuated with each opening. In several very important houses in Paris, this fulness is already very clearly characterized in models of exceeding charm. [LD sien the French spirit is the most charming CHANEL (Left) Two finely pleated tiers make the skirt of a black crépe frock with a loose blouse finished with a band drawn tightly about the hips. The pleated cape is detachable It is evident that, for the tailleur, we should keep the slim line—as slender as our bodies can stand. Let us choose, then, the little straight jackets which we see in many large houses, since these maintain the appearance of youthfulness; but let us not hesitate to wear, also, the more comprehensive style of jacket, either circular or merely elongated like redingotes, beltless and giving a long line without emphasizing the figure. For afternoon wear, we might begin to give up the straight dress. I like very much the line of pleats arranged on one side only and giving an uneven effect to the outline of the dress— or else that fulness which greatly lengthens the skirt and gives a woman a walk a thousand times prettier than that ofa little sparrow hopping along on both feet at the same time. The flexible crépe and brilliant satin that have been offered for the past two seasons can now, when properly combined with a little fulness, make real works of art of the dresses. When the belt is eliminated from a dress, it should, in my opinion, be made with fulness at the bottom and should not be treated as a

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LOUISEBOULANGER (Left) Richly reembroidered gold lamé makes the cuirass bodice of this ball gown, which opens over the hips to show puffs of the wing-like tulle panels that fall to the ground in a short train over the full, pointed tulle skirt straight-line dress, which seems to put a woman in a sack with- out dressing her; no matter how beautiful the cloth is, the effect is infelicitous; it is too primitive. I shall not hesitate a second in ordering one of the tailleurs which seem to be the direct opposite of the tailleurs accepted up to the present time. The long coat with fulness set very low on each side of the front is extremely original, and so is this blouse as long as the coat and made of pleated linen worked like the loveliest of lingerie. I shall adopt this simple style of dress- ing, and so will you. But there is something else! The tailleurs of satin or silk, black or in colours, are, it seems to me, the utmost in practical smartness. Such a costume may be worn for a very formal afternoon affair and, because of its complete simplicity, may also be worn in the morning. I must confess to committing the sin of covetousness when I looked at a coat entirely embroidered with wooden beads, widely dissimilar from the embroidered coat of last year. I was VOGUE LELONG (Left) The drapery of a gown of lemon-yellow crépe is crossed on the bodice at the back and left to hang straight over the skirt; while, in front, the bodice is plain; and the skirt drapery is crossed POIRET (Right) The spirit of 1885 may be recognized in this gown of gold, blue, and green lamé, draped in front and crossed behind, where all the fulness is drawn into an enormous bustle finished at the right side with a shell-like cascade pleased, too, with the neck-line formed by drapery drawn very high in front and falling carelessly behind to show part of the back; it is impertinent, unexpected, charming. Sleeves are either very tight and wrinkled over the hands or very large and monk-like; both types are pretty, but it is essential to know how to combine them properly with the style of the dress. It is evident that, for a dull crépe fabric, the large sleeve will be the more becoming; whereas, for satin or a rather brilliant silk, the tight-fitting sleeve creased over the hand will be the more successful. The straight coat following the lines of the figure is, to a certain extent, replacing the short jacket. This style of wrap will be used in the month of June for excursions to the country round about Paris or for late tea in the Bois. With it will be worn a straight skirt to match, accompanied by an interesting blouse as difficult to describe as it is unexpected in design: this is a costume which no woman of taste can do without.

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April 15 MOLYNEUX (Right) This attractive version of the black and white mode has scalloped flounees of black and white Chantilly lace joined at the very low waist-line to a straight bodice of white mous- seline de soie. LANVIN (Left) Another suggestion of the eighties is seen in the group of coloured foulard ruffles set on in a line ascending towards the waist in the back of a loose frock of navy-blue serge. The foulard collar is high in front and thrown far back You will certainly order one of those flowered frocks, which, when made of transparent materials, have replaced white lingerie frocks for midsummer wear. They, likewise, are full, caught up in one place or another, a flounce concentrating the fulness at the front or the side. And, as the shades of these frocks are the shades of the flowers and leaves of a garden, they are not unnaturally bright, but come in well-blended tones of green and brown. To wear over these light costumes that float in the sunlight, short jackets are made to replace the figured sweater; in this case, however, the marvellous embroideries are not displaced. Not only will the designs be set very close, in flower patterns or conventional motifs, not only will the colouring be warm, but, in addition, metal threads—silver or gold—will be mixed in with the silk threads; everything is allowed on these. little garments, which are, in my opinion, one of the “finds” of the season. A series of these jackets may be made with more or less 41 DRECOLL (Right) Below a long slip of light brown crépe with a concealed fastening in the back appear two bias bands of darker brown crépe in two harmonizing tones. The ends of the scarf are bordered, like the skirt, with bias bands in darker tones elaborate line, according to the dresses they are to match. We shall wear, as well, with a simple skirt, a sweater of tchina crépe worked to our taste, or, overa dress of black chiffon, a jacket of transparent pleated linen, miraculously embroidered. Some of these garments, which stop at the line of the hips, are fastened over one hip by two long flaps of self-material; the garment crosses at the collar, where it is closed in the same manner by a straight bias like that used for the flaps. Again, this garment may be straight, without a fastening, and may be crossed over or left open, according to the wearer’s mood. Of course, beneath this garment, it will be difficult to wear the bouffant dress that one of our greatest artists of the mode persists in showing us in his collection this season; but there, again, the jacket made after the manner of a boatman’s coat—loose in the back and rounded and cut very short in front—will find its place. It is to be found in several collections. I have even seen it in white linen with a border of bright coloured cotton embroidery.

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VOGUE i Ss VE SSS D@UILLET “Cardinal,” a frock characteristic of this house this season, has a tunic made with deep flaring pleats and cut out over a short, narrow, contrasting slip. Lingerie ruffles finish the round neck-line WORTH This very unusual cape of wool or of crépe marocain is finished at the rounded bottom with five tiers of finely pleated taffeta ruffies. The long scarf- collar is worn with the ends thrown back PREMET This straight frock, to be worn with or without a coat, is of green rep with a black scarf attached at the left to an embroidered band and bordered at the other end in yellow and orange Did I not tell you that, in spite of our love for simplicity, we shall be forced to give way? The creators of the mode are satis- fied for the moment merely to complicate this simplicity, which will last for a time, but which is almost insensibly evolving into a mode in complete opposition to the fashions of the past three or four seasons. When I see, for instance, a dress composed solely of sections fitting into each other like those of an umbrella and giving an effect of an indescribable fulness in the front and back of the bodice, I am confused, for I find this model pretty, but, at the same time, the opposite of simple. All in all, cubist art has had a wide influence, as well in colouring as in shape; I frankly admit that I should prefer something else. These applications of rectangles and squares of different shades of cloth leave me nonplussed; even if it is possible to wear such an arrangement several times, one must admit that such a dress is not very practical. Several evening dresses are very mysterious in design. It is hard to understand how the skirts of certain gowns—very full at the bottom with an effect of large falling petals—succeed in forming a mosaic of almost invisible folds and stitching at the hips; from this mosaic emerges the bodice, bearing no apparent relation to the skirt except in its purpose of cleverly concealing the rising fulness. The heaviness of bead embroidery, both dull and brilliant, gives our evening materials a splendour equal to that of the most beautiful Egyptian and Indian embroideries; it is modern, it is different, but it is really very lovely and gives the beltless chemise style a raison d’étre. In spite of the lavish embroideries, some houses find these styles a little too straight and a little too simple and have added wings to the gowns. This treatment is really very pretty if the wearer is slight and if her movements are graceful; but one must learn to use the wings as one learns to play on an instrument, and I can not bear to think of certain stiff, uncommunicative persons with these scraps of painted chiffon fastened to the little finger of each hand. When wings are not used, a scarf is thrown over one’s shoulder and round the

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April 15 PREMET Latticework of closely woven black silk ribbons forms the foundation of this frock, banded with plain cloth. A band embroidered in red, white, and black hangs from the white silk collar MOLYNEUX A coat of black kasha is worn over a frock of figured foulard with three flounces in front below a straight bodice suggestive of the moyen Gge. Both the coat and the scarf are lined with the silk LOUISEBOULANGER A very new tailleur of hand-woven grey alpaca has a straight coat with a gathered flounce. The novel blouse is of white pleated linen with alternating bands of embroidery and hemstitching neck. Scarfs like shawls are no longer worn; they are done with, but there is the modern scarf, and we could speak by the hour of the different types suited to different moods. A very happy idea for evening is to leave an embroidered or lamé slip open at the sides, showing panels of tulle beneath a lacing. When a woman with a good figure walks or dances in such a dress, it makes one think of the Victory of Samothrace brought to life; it constitutes a great art. As there are no very new evening coats, the capes alone charmed me, but, perhaps, it is because they are made of such sumptuous lamés. Aside from a cape like a cope, which is cut away from the neck, I saw nothing startling. Coats for after- noon are pretty because they are very simple, very narrow, and embroidered with such richness that they make one wonder at the contrast between the elaboration of the work and the ap- pearance of simplicity. In consequence of the unexpected note in the collections of this season, I find a number of gowns that I should classify as surprise dresses, for these costumes, consisting of afternoon dress and cape or coat, are presented to us under one form, which, by the removal of an apron or the turning back of the cape, takes on an entirely different aspect. These ensembles are sometimes amusing, sometimes practical, and, it must be said, sometimes just the opposite. We should think twice before we disguise ourselves as penguins or disfigure ourselves by a double thickness of material! However, there is no question that the cape— of the reversible type, not that with a double armhole—is, in all points, practical. By the use of scarfs alone, a certain couturier even contrives frocks amusingly adapted to two different pur- poses and achieves quite evident success. As I watched the passing mannequins parading so many new ideas, I realized that never has eccentricity of taste had so little place as at present. I had hoped to find here that individuality common to all those who do not wish to copy their neighbours (as so many of us so often do). But, to-day, one must accept (Continued on page 132)

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REBOUX This tiny white hat with its boxed felt crown and brim of flexible grosgrain ribbon is in perfect accord with the smartly severe crépe frock so popular at present THE CHIC OF THE REBOUX (Below) The rolling brim of this sand coloured Canton crépe hat shadows the eyes in a becoming manner, while a trimming of two snail shells and lightly bronzed feathers are placed at one side MARIA GUY The chic of this irregularly shaped hat of midnight-blue Milan straw is concentrated in the vivid flame coloured pompons set directly at the back of the brim MODELS ON THESE TWO PAGES IMPORTED BY CHRISTINE NEW CLOCHE IS OFTEN BRIM DEEP VOGUE

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April 15 a oe Pitacd. “| ao REBOUX The brim of this hat of yellow crin, exquisite in curve and colour, droops delightfully be- neath the weight of two feather tulips, one black and one shading from yellow into white REBOUX (Left) A colourful hat to wear with the tailleur is of black Canton crépe with red ciré ribbon—a new note—edging tts brim and making a delightful criss cross trimming for the front of the crown AGNES (Right) The rumour that Paris ts in @ black and white mood is substantiated by two black and white chiffon handkerchiefs— one used as trimming for a hat of black Bangkok and the other as a scarf PARIS HATS DESCRIBE A VARIETY OF CURVES

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46 VOGUE ae? FORT ian es cnet 3 ae buneeaere PPeUE UALS el eee + JENNY MODELS IMPORTED BY BENDEL A buttercup-yellow toile de soie tunic embroidered in yellow beads and silk is worn over a narrow navy blue rep skirt. In the seven-eighth-length coat, bands of the rep are applied on a georgette Soundation This strikingly smart ensemble combines a white georgette crépe tunic with narrow stitching and a black seven-eighth-length rep coat, which is unlined except for a five-inch facing of white georgette crépe

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April 15 PA Rol S [eas: MOLYNEUX This straight tunic of navy-blue and white plaid rep, with long, tight sleeves, over a short skirt of navy blue rep illustrates a favourite use of plaid BERNARD (Centre left) English man’s cloth in brown with a large check in a dark redline makes a smart tailored frock with mannish revers and buttoned cuffs ANY of us have mental pictures of intense vividness founded upon something that we have only heard. A favourite of mine is a vision of the ’sixties, when my mother, who saw the reality, was a little girl; and I, from her vivid account, visualize it as plainly as she did. There is a group of ladies in immense crinolines, shawls, and bonnets with lace “falls” and great ribbon ties under the chin, watching the assembling of many gentlemen on horseback. Suddenly, there appears a lovely woman in a riding-habit, and I delight, as my mother did, in the slender, flowing lines of her figure, half revealed by what we should certainly consider nowa- days a cumbersome garment, but which was a great contrast to the mountains of material demanded by ordinary dress, when even bathing-suits had full pantalettes to the ankle. MT RoRGO Ro wer FO 9 FASHION a MODELS IMPORTED BY NANCY merit LS MARTIAL ET ARMAND A sports ensemble of beige and brown plaid and beige rep has a beige crépe de Chine blouse and a beige three-quarter coat with a plaid collar SS 7 BERNARD (Centre right) A less severe tailored frock is of grey English man’s material buttoned over a red-and- grey line plaid skirt with a few Chinese pleats If a woman possessed large eyes, a tiny mouth, champagne- bottle shoulders, and an eighteen-inch waist, the rest of her anatomy might break every canon of symmetry—she was a raving beauty in spite of everything, for her voluminous petti- coats hid all discrepancies. What a contrast for contemplation between those days and these! The face has had its day, and the figure has come into its own. The modes of 1924 seem deter- mined to keep us to a rigorous course of diet and exercise, if we mean to make any pretension of wearing them properly. From morning to night, fashion is preoccupied with line, line, line, and even the introduction of many yards of thin materials has been made with due attention to the slender proportions about which they are intended to trail like clouds about themoon. There is no peace for the “fleshy’—to use for once the most

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48 MARTIAL ET ARMAND The Directoire waist-line is sug- gested in a tailleur of tan rep, the top part of which is a yoke ac- centuated by tiny buttoned pock- ets in front. The skirt is em- broidered in tan silk “lace” MADELEINE ET MADELEINE (Left) Black silk alpaca makes an afternoon ‘ensemble. A straight coat with standing collar 1s faced with white crépe, which also faces the sleeves. The simple > dress is trimmed with stitching and a mouchoir collar abominable of all the adjectives descriptive of overweight—, and there is no use in crying peace where there is none. On the other hand, for the woman of fashionable proportions, the modes of the season offer a multiformity in which her “infinite variety,” praised by the poet, may find an opportunity to shine. No longer can she be reproached with keeping the same silhouette morning, noon, and night. She may, if she chooses, look like two or three different types of woman in the same twenty-four hours. In the morning, she is trim and boyish, in simple tailleur or tailored frock or in clothes which more and more approach the type which we used to call “sports models.” As far as one can tell at present, the extremely severe mannish tailleur will not be so popular as an equally neat, but less strictly masculine, variety. Even O’Rossen is making suits a little more on the order of those we call “dressmakery.” However, if a woman knows she looks well in such unadorned simplicity, she will find plenty of Parisian houses ready to dress her “in all things like a VOGUE BERNARD A gargonne model of black al- paca has a tunic turned up to form pockets over a belt which goes across the front only. The organdie collar is double and the cuffs button over white ones MADELEINE ET MADELEINE (Right) A black tailleur of alpaca is bloused in the back, and the band at the edge is but- toned to match the band making the collar. The skirt is wrapped over in front and slightly lifted to give a graceful line man,” as witness the suit from O’Rossen shown on page 50: A more usual type is the suit which, though simple, is more feminine, with a neat short jacket making one line with its plain, short skirt, but with details taken from the dressmaker rather than the tailor and with the addition of a blouse which may be of gay printed material if one chooses or of a washable material softened with frills or pleated jabots. Some times, the jackets are longer, as shown in the O’Rossen model, and an amusing and very wearable one is the exact copy by Redfern of the overcoat worn by the Prince of Wales during his recent visit to Paris. Tailleurs of the “one-line” type are being much worn on the Riviera, and it is noteworthy that they are sometimes in such colours as rose, while, in the collections, they are mostly in navy or beige or in one of the fur tones. Occasionally, there are combinations of checks or plaids or of stripes and plain ma- terials, one for the coat and the other for the skirt or vice-versa. But plaids in woollen materials have been used more for tailored (Continued on page 51)

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April 15 49 PREMET MODELS IMPORTED BY MARY WALLS Unbleached kasha bordered in brown makes this typical sports frock with a clever use of pleats in the scarf and in the narrow skirt panel slipped through a slash in the blouse below the red leather belt An unusually smart version of the black alpaca walking frock has a wide flounce below a tight band laced round the hips and a row of tiny red buttons on its tucked white organdie chemisette Trim lines, a boyish turn-over collar, and a grey crépe de Chine tie embroidered with a dog and a hunter combine to make this suit in a@ greyish-beige fabric worthy of its dashing name—“chasseur”

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bad SC Esa O’ROSSEN MODELS IMPORTED BY FRANKLIN SIMON y This tailleur, called “Smoking”, is of black This suit is an indication of O’ Rossen’s plans for O Thy, OSes / ‘ “grain de poudre’—similar to gabardine. The next winter. The coat of grey cheviot is fitted coat is like a man’s dinner-jacket, bound with with seams at the sides, slit up the back to the : black silk braid.and fastened with link buttons. waist, and fastened with two buttons in double- The waistcoat is of the same material breasted fashion. The skirt is lapped

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April 15 51 MODELS FROM DRECOLL Fringe effects appear in many of the new col- lections. The skirt of this black silk rep af- ternoon dress (left) is fringed, like the scarf, in points in a new and unusual way frocks than for suits, except in the domain of sports. In almost every collection in Paris, there is a sports or country model in the Rodier plaid kasha, in shades of cream, beige, and brown. The rival of the tailleur is the robe-tailleur, or coat-dress, as we used to call it. I prefer the name “tailored dress,” for many models have nothing of the coat about them. Here, also, we find several distinct types. There is the severe model, usually in English man’s cloth, often with a broken or hidden check or small line plaid in another shade of the same colour. The model from Bernard, sketched on page 47, is a good example of its most masculine interpretation; while the other Bernard model, shown on the same page in grey and grey-and-red plaid, is an example of the less severe, but equally well-tailored, second type. We find these types in many collections, and Patou has been parti- cularly successful with them. The third sort is a great specialty of Premet’s and includes all models on the order of their famous garconne, which created a mode all by itself last season. This is a gown, not a coat-dress, A gown of heavy black crépe de Chine printed here and there with large rose and green flowers shows Drecoll’s new drapery—a long semicir- cular flounce set sideways down one side The semicircular flounce is also seen in this black crépe satin gown with the new draped movement. The white flower shaded with black follows the important black and white mode but it is designed to be worn in the street without a coat and so it falls into the category of tailored dress. For this type, the favourite material is some sort of alpaca, and, after alpaca, one of the satins, even a vegetable satin, though its wearing qualities are not guaranteed. The light wools, kasha, and rep are also very often chosen, for kasha is at the very height of its popularity; many collections—among them, Vionnet and Callot—employ it for the majority of their models. Unless they are completed by scarfs, which are omnipresent, clever details of lingerie, chemisettes, collars and cuffs, give them delightful freshness. These vary from the stiff Eton collar of starched linen, revived after years of neglect, to all sorts of fine pleatings in batiste and various sorts of lace. The general line of these models is always as simple as their name implies, but, for the softer type, some form of the popular tunic is often chosen; this tunic shows various influences: the long, straight one like the Crusader’s surcoat; (Continued on page 118)

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VOGUE ~, > {a 4 i \ i i & 4 ¥ q z | | Le . . OF e a 4 fe i] { 7 a boa i Mis b f i 7 Nj af fs i F £ The cuirass bodice of a black and white crépe satin dance frock with a circular skirt has a nar- row black scarf falling in two long ends in the back MODELS FROM DOUCET An evening gown of great charm and chic is of black georgette crépe with glittering embroidery of bril- liants. The back is cut slightly lower than the front In this formal white satin eve- ning gown with deep oval décolle- lageinthe back, crystal bead em- broidery and fringe are used in a very effective manner i UL

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KEDFERN (Below) This simple white satin sheath-gownwith a moderatedécol- letage typifies the compromise between the dance frock and the formal evening gown. The semi- transparent flounce is of silver guipure lace over chiffon; im- ported by Mme. Elizabeth to the left shoulder; imported BEER A delightful instance that the Directoire influence is making itself felt here and there in the mode is this high-waisted Jrock of pink chiffon beaded in crystal with a hem of pink chiffon and a long scarf to match Puls ol ewte Fran ANND THE Directoire (foaits ({hiroval JEANNE HALLEE Below) Fulgurant satin in cyc- lamen colour is used in an effec- tively draped gown, in which grace and emphasis are given to one side by a lovely wing-like bow with one end running straight up by Mme. Elizabeth

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MODELS FROM WORTH The interesting model at the extreme left, like a Florentine robe with sleeves in front, makes a cape in the back. It is of oxidized silver lamé bordered with white fur. The loose end, forming a generous cape, is thrown over one shoulder and may be brought round across the back and held by the other hand Evening capes are exquisite at Worth’s —almost the only house that makes them; the others prefer coats. The cape in the middle is of silver cloth with a black satin lining and hem of shaded ostrich flues set on with a band of rhinestones. The scarf-collar may be tied in the front or thrown over the shoulder as shown The third beautiful cape (right) is of white crépe de Chine with a lining of pleated scarlet chiffon, which shows through the crépe just enough to give it the tint of arose petal. The trimming is a studding of rhinestones in points near the hem of ermine. The ermine collar ties with white crépe OSTRICH AND FUR TRIM THE SUMMER EVENING CAPES

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2 on wm April 15 Br PE ee ee ee ee ee Le MODELS FROM DCUILLET The figure on the staircase wears a slender gown of white crépe georgette heavily beaded in pearls and strass with a volant, also beaded, set low on the skirt. A graceful scarf of pome- granate-red crépe georgette embroidered at the ends to match the dress adds a vivid note of colour to the costume A black gown is made of the new alpaca satin, which is a very lustrous satin on one side and a dull alpaca weave on the other. This model with a panel train is trimmed with large groups of brilliant chintz coloured flowers in solid silk embroidery, which are applied to the gown with gold thread THE GRANDE ROBE IS SLENDER AND RICH IN EFFECT

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Earn ck Mba uke Se ee a tn on ‘ Se ye i oe wor ee Cm. i % Pie ee a nba (Right, first figure) Brick-red chiffon trimmed with silk stitching in the same tone is used in this ensemble of very lovely line, consisting of a coat with very wide sleeves and a slenderly graceful frock which fastens at one side with small buttons MODELS FROM JEAN PATOU (Right, second figure) A charming exponent of the modes for black and white and for chiffon for all times of day is this ensemble of black chiffon trimmed with black silk stitching and ball buttons. The coat is bordered with white chiffon THE ENSEMBLE COAT IS MOST OFTEN SEVEN-EIGH TH-LENGTH (Left, first figure) Superlatively smart and practical is this ensemble consisting of a long coat of navy-blue rep lined with silver-grey crépe and a tunic-frock of gleaming grey artificial satin, which fastens at one side over a narrow rep underskirt (Left, second figure) For dining at a restaurant or for formal afternoon wear is this exquisite coat of rose- amber velvet trimmed with cut-work and silk and metal embroidery, worn with a charming frock of yellowish pink crépe having a skirt with spiral, pleated frills — — g Blea!) Oy Glee S _ ee MODELS FROM RENEE VOGUE

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April 15 7’ CHIC — It Looks to Its Leathers For Novelty and Variety IS is a season of leathers rather than of lines, in the]world of shoes. In line, there is little that is new; in leather, much. The woman who is willing to pay seventy-five dollars may buy an exquisite bit of lizard skin touched, perhaps, with green Vici kid, fitted to her foot as no other clothes are fitted in these days of straight lines unadorned. Black patent leather, too, piped with green, red, or purple lizard, with a miracle of a heel to match, engages her attention. Admittedly, lizard doesn’t wear. Admittedly, she is a terribly, fascinatingly extrava- gant person. But, if one has a jewel of a foot, one should set it properly at all costs—if the costs are forth-coming. Other women, lacking either the provocative toe or the omnipotent purse, who feel that they must depend on what the shops have to offer, may find one of the new beige kid sandals with slender lines of brown alligator for trimming or one of the new square-heeled patent leather pumps with a small buckle—and be quite as well satisfied with the world. Indeed, the shoes in profile will be much the same. This duality of choice, affecting the material rather than ” MODELS FROM SLATER FOR DESCRIPTIONS, SEE PAGE 130 AMERICAN SHOE —$—$$—$_ \

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the line, runs through the whole shoe mode, for Cannes dances in the wildest fantasies of real pearl tassels and diamond heels and Newport plans to dance with silk-embroidered flowers on shoes of brilliant satin. Ready-made evening shoes of much the same general shape are simpler. This choice of simplicity is very clever of the makers, indeed, since simplicity is always good and may be turned out by the hundred thousand, while elaboration is generally bad un- less done by a real artist, who charges accordingly. Where one can afford it, the lizard is undoubtedly the deity before which ito burn incense in the ritual of shoe choosing. Not only is the lizard itself better than ever, but its reptilian checker-boards have influenced leathers other than its own, for“lizard calf” is wornin the morning with one’s tailored suit and Paris has de- signed brocades for the evening in purple, red, or green that look like coloured metal alligator—the lizard’s larger-patterned cousin. In ready-made shoes, lizard and alligator, or clever imitations of them, (Left to right, reading downward) Silver brocade slippers, silver kid strappings and heel, Cammeyer; silver brocade and kid pump, rhinestone buckle, Cammeyer; silver brocade slipper, J. T. Cousins; white kid sandal, patent leather pipings, Delman; white suede sports shoe, Henning; white kid pump, black patent leather pipings, cameo buckle, Delman Sf Tl Westie Pee Oa en tate ee This very smart beach sandal is a de- lightfully flexible affair, woven of nar- row strips of leather—bewteen which one may see the foot—. with a kid sole and a low leather heel; Shoecraft WA AH F NX (Ky oaks are used as trimmings, though more often in natural. There is even a leather called “suéde alligator” that prints the saurian markings on the familiar velvety surface with most interesting effect. After lizard, the most important factors in the leather world are patent leather and calf. The advent of the tailored suit suggests a shoe that may be polished, a mannish sort of shoe that suits the Oxford mode, the brogue mode, the mode of the simple one- or two-strap shoe with a buckle, the mode of the low heel, the sturdy sole, and the general air of trimness and efficiency that the suit demands; hence the popularity of calf. For the woman who finds calf too heavy, Vici kid makes a good, dependable shoe, always staple, but suddenly much more in demand than it was in those so recent days when patent leather ruled the daytime mode. Patent is still good—exceedingly so, especially for the type of adaptable shoe that may be put on in the morning with the tailored dress and worn till after lunch. Heels for these tailored shoes, by the way, though low, are not the so-called (Right) A beautifully cut patent leather pump with a Cuban heel is held close to the instep by means of an open work double strap; from Cammeyer (Left) Perennially smart is the patent leather pump with a suggestion of the colonial; here, it has a gilded buckle and a square toe; J. T. Cousins

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April 15 59 I. MILLER CAMMEYER I. MILLER “flapper heels” of a few seasons ago. They should be one and five-eighths inches high and classify as military eet ett etl heels, according to New York authority. The top notes in the afternoon symphony are un- doubtedly in the lizard range. One may use the lizard for a whole shoe on which to apply a bit of delicate or vivid coloured leather. Or one may use the lizard itself for trimming on kid or black patent leather. In either case, the sandal shape is the most favoured, and it is to be noted that there is not nearly so much elaboration in the matter of latticework as there used to be, nor is the cut as low at the instep. Appliqué largely replaces openwork. A few simple lines, indeed, distinguish the new sandal; if it carries a buckle, the buckle is small, holding straps together at the instep; if it is piped with colour, the piping is narrow. There are also afternoon shoes on the general pattern of the pump—the abso- lutely plain patent leather pump, the regent pump with its characteristic curves at the toe, the pump with a small buckle, the suéde pump with lines of kid in the same colour used as trimming. Coloured kids in grey and beige are used for the more elaborate of these shoes; suéde is used, too, especially in beige. Grey, it may be said, is not the most popular colour this year, either {in clothes or shoes, though the woman whose hair is grey will always prefer it to beige. Patent leather makes the simpler afternoon models in which one is likely to do more or less walking—the shoe with a strap or two, the sandal, the pump. In the realm of the made-to-order shoe, there is a new suéde-finished leather with a surface that looks like cloud shadows drifting over water or velvet rumpled and spread out again. This leather is dyed in odd and beautiful shades, such as old-rose, robin’s-egg blue, purple, and, the delicate tones of grey and beige. Sucha shoe may have appliqués of contrasting colour—bronze on rose, perhaps,—with a tiny dull gold buckle and a bit of dull gold fringe as frail and lovely as an old-fashioned earring. This shoe is absolutely the last word for wear with the formal afternoon dress. The country mode is a matter of black and white for the made-to-order shoe; white, in the main, for those (Continued on page 130) HANAN DELMAN ALEXANDER CAMMEYER SLATER CAMMEYER FOR DESCRIPTIONS OF THESE SHOES, SEE PAGE 130

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FOUR LEADING FIGURES IN NOTABLE SPRING WEDDINGS LOL Wid LLL (Below) Mrs. George S. Amory, who, before her marriage, was Miss Marion Renée Carhart, is the sister of Amory S. Carhart, Esq., of Tuxedo and New York, The wedding and reception took place at the home of her grandmother, Mrs. Henry D. Brookman, in New York. Mr. and Mrs. Amory left for Europe after the ceremony Ulead MW“ OPCCCCHU“U“™1™0€&# TT dca eda, Vddddddddédéddededddddc Whi Wuhes Maid ddd “Git WUE Md bddcccccccdc 7 eeeerccccckv, \\ Ss VM OM Yo Yy .> WG >. aovwwa nr Hill Ira L WSIS @Harris and Ewing Mrs. William Stuart Symington, third, who was, before her marriage. Miss Evelyn Wadsworth, is the daughter of Senator James W. Wadsworth, junior, and Mrs. Wadsworth. Her wedding, in Wash- ington, was witnessed by many distinguished guests, among them the President and Mrs. Coolidge WSS A PRINCE OF DENMARK WEDS A CANADIAN GIRL (Below) The wedding of Prince Erik of Denmark and Miss Lois Frances Booth took place in Ottawa, Canada. They are now in Europe, but expect to spend part of each year in this country. The engage- ment of Prince Erik’s brother, Prince Viggo, to Miss Eleanor Margaret Green, of New York, was recently announced From United Newspictures VOGU 7 E 4 ldenddeweddd) WVMOE”’ Ly VEE.

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= wees a2 »oepe aT, ey fob $) kar. = a sane cane ia eh et The artist, Joseph Platt, transforms the early nineteenth-century dining-room by replacing the heavy curtains with lighter powder-blue cotton ones covered with white stars. The valances and the slip-covers for the chairs are of red- and tan-striped awning canvas edged with blue wash A MASK taffeta ruching. The slip-covers are bound with blue and white tape OF SUMMER FOR THE WINTER ROOM After the Curtain of Winter Has Come Down, Gay Slip-Covers and Fresh Draperies Make Ready the Stage for the Entrance of Summer orated with a winter scheme in mind. Heavy curtains hang at the windows; luxuriously upholstered sofas and chairs are grouped before the open fire; soft rugs and carpets cover the floor spaces; and shaded lights cast a warm glow over the room when the curtains are drawn together and the table is laid for tea. The atmosphere of such a room is a welcome contrast to the gloomy twilight of the short winter day. And, both in town and country, this is the type of room one finds every- where to-day. But what of these rooms when the summer comes? All the charm of their warm hospitality on a December evening fades away with the coming of spring, and the rooms need a mask and carnival attire for the hot days and long twilight evenings with windows open to catch the breezes. Cont sit enough, most rooms are dec- A little change in the appearance of these rooms, a disguise here and there in the way of new cur- tains, chair-coverings, and arrangement of the furniture, and the rooms are ready for their summer holiday. In summer, when curtains are never drawn, the intimate grouping of the furni- ture by the fireside should by broken up and re- assembled near one of the long French windows of the country drawing-room or against the flat wall space between two windows in the town house, in order to take advantage of any current of air that may steal through the windows. Re- arranging the furniture at once gives a room another character and creates a new point of interest. On entering the room, one is now un- consciously lured to the inviting group of chairs and small tables about the sofa that in winter used to stand by the fireplace, but is now in*a new position, and one feels that the room has come through the transition of winter to summer with- out losing any of its old charm or purpose. It is a great art to bring the out-of-doors into the house in summer; but this is only possible when windows and doors are open wide. This means an absence of heavy curtains and of closely drawn blinds. Therefore, the heavy hangings must be put away, and, in their place, something sheer must hang at the windows that will catch the flutter of the breeze, but will not obstruct the view of the shadows and vistas beyond. The deep- cushioned sofa and friendly armchair, covered in the warm, rich fabric that looked so well before the winter fire, must be given a disguise in which to invite the summer guest. The carnival attire of a gaily piped and frilled slip-cover, which com- pletely alters the appearance of a chair of classic design, works wonders in giving a room an en- tirely new character.

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Aa RRL a IN ata S (Right) This sofa has a slip- cover of yellow rubberized satin. The pillows are of the same material in blue decorated with motifs cut from chintz. The chair is raspberry-and-rose- striped mattress ticking, and that of the stool is tan oilcloth patterned with pink roses Another of Mr. Platt’s decorative plans for fresh- ening up the summer drawing-room is shown in the picture at the left. The inviting sofa is covered with white-dotted blue tablecloth damask bound with tan cotton tape and edged with tan linen ruching. The stool by the window is covered in red tablecloth damask _bor- dered with its own fringe. The soft window-curtains are of blue and white colton dress voile (Left) Green tarlatan curtains are capped with a valance of red perforated oilcloth over a band of white perforated oil- cloth. The tarlatan is so in- expensive that it may easily be replaced when it loses its Sreshness. Both chairs are covered in white oiicloth bound in red and trimmed with fringe and points of red oilcloth In the days of our careful grandmothers, the furniture in the rooms of unused houses was shrouded in drab linen covers and the chandeliers were tied up in cheesecloth. To look into these rooms gave one the “‘creeps.” But the gay slip- covers of to-day often transform the familiar pieces of furniture into colourfully bedecked objects withshapes quite different from those they originally possessed, and one’s imagination may run riot in dressing up the old rooms so that they become quite changed. One is no longer satisfied to dress the entire assortment of chairs and sofas in the same linen or cotton print, for that now seems dull and lacking in imagination. It is more

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In Mrs. Harris Ham- mond’s boudoir, the walls are peach coloured, and, in summer, pale green glazed chinlz curtains re- place those of green moire. The chairs have slip- covers of plain pale green chints and flowered green chintz (Right) The dressing- table in Mrs. Hammond’s bedroom is done in peach coloured silk. Over this, a summer valance of dotted muslin is hung. The stool has a slip-cover of peach coloured glazed chintz trimmed with a flowered border and frill unusual to combine a flowered fabric with a plain glazed or figured chintz bound with contrasting pipings used in different ways to enliven the colour scheme, so that the summer room is like the summer flower-garden—gay with many colours. Chintz and linen, rubberized satin and taffeta, ginghams, oilcloth, and metallized oilcloth are all used separately or in combination to complete the disguise of the slip-covered furniture. The sketches shown on these pages present some new and original ways for using contrasting materials, Tarlatans, nets, and voiles, fringed and braided, are tied back at the windows, while Venetian (Continued on page 106) DECORATIONS BY WOOD, EDEY, AND SLAYTER (Right) In summer, the heavy valance cur- tains of the bedroom are hung in bags of peach coleured glazed chintz with a flowered border. The armchair is done in the same chiniz, and Venetian shades replace casement curtains phd li hllecdldccdssccdedocddccddddhsdccdddda > Wynn Richards SL ww’ WO vliNwwi

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64 VOGUE CECE & Ee cack ie He. her niu uot be wverlwhed ; ru 7 cx Heer cowtiad” Jhat- Heir charm ter « = Cot 21, when 2 datke tpaller of tick ox whale peer Tatn/ Letty whi’ the of Whe frapier. Me Terr? tugs wre. alee’, ote? oe hice! vw ¢ Vey veer the Heuue gowts, he pane bald of sacue fous. leg make. the seme veces etcheuuathecy vott ble. fare © Mer tueng tees ou Fath. tives fears te popobin; oe lewis, wild of Pheu Asati tik fy peck aed fort. acreft ao we - -? Yoo ascrad iy, Hi. vr] te Meri PA tuteodicd pu [idle wertef, tude Pituch 7 frre fac

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} ERA LEGE ( S ZS Fy ma Whe Sarcse tas i fon safety Mannie” = nat te dade Mle whe cx ee tench Seis taut?” Cok ig cis atten tog Meee / Zz ny oe a fleelined f a Ahtle. ZL ee Cenercee, Yo Wiad heey en ae scnacnshuatel cae LATE heed - a bell : oul. tects pg age aE pose i ay Seana sederzyeet Laden of = aliaddiie tecle. Lhe en), while. Ye fee oot” cf placed % frviee/neas Guricac Conulerparl ace porte tathy. they are wear, bal’ bascde gb wore or a ar” , Ome ap r iter’ t) in “Cain ane Vie none im ions 4 fear of boheng or ape’ ok — és Easg We wrth. Kuwn Freuch astm ee So reaped frork Ste. Ree anid ix aan aeons Vou Neu) YR Worran @s Unfrack) wi ri SiL ARS

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THE HON. MRS. RICHARD NORTON Mrs. Norton, who was, before her marriage, Miss Jean Mary Kinloch, is the daughter of Sir David Kinloch. Her husband the Hon. Richard Norton, i is the eldest son of Lord i Grantley. During the past winter, she made two brief i visits ir, New York—one on | ker way to Palm Beach and one on her return from that resort, where she spent the season sb RN Sw - nll Yevonde, London

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April 15 A BbADT ELE. CFF 67 teRE UPRIGH T Sturdy As Was the Constitution We Inherited, Have Not the Strong Trade Winds of Commerce Blown Our Business Ideals Just a Little Askew? ONSIDERING the stout, solid, standard qualities we Americans inherited through our original Puritan English and Prim Dutch ancestry, it does seem strange that we should now be setting such store by that contemptible attribute, shrewdness. Any low intelligence can be shrewd, and many are. But why under the sun should it be acclaimed? The wily business of cheating one’s neighbour isn’t really a wise or a worthy one. It may make a mean affluence for those who can “get away with it” and keep out of prison (and, except for the dangers of overcrowding the national institutions, one wishes they were fewer), but it is no measure of success for the stand- ing of a community. And yet, out of almost every groupof ordinary business minds in conclave assembled, some would applaud the story of a clever bit of quite unethical trading. UPPOSE an unfortunate man or woman is cursed with an idea, from a new dress design to mighty machinery for the production of projectiles. The number of safeguards—most of them quite inadequate, too,—with which that person has to be surrounded is horrifying to the high-minded. And we appeal to anybody of a truth-telling disposition to say if he has not often heard some sly dog of a business pirate boasting of how these safeguards could be slipped through or beaten down. “It was patented, of course, but we just took and put another leg on it, and there we were! They couldn’t do a thing to us; and, if they had, we’d have worn them to the bone, carrying the case from court to court.” Or, “Well, yes, there was a story like that kicking about the manager’s office, but old Esau’s no fool; he trimmed it down and altered the title and the place and the names, till its own mother’d hardly have known it. Wasn’t copyrighted in this country, anyhow.” OW, to have this sort of thing going on among a compara- tively few money-making sneak-thieves of the lower sort is bad enough, but to have the average citizen salute cunning as part of real business ability is shocking. How did we lose our sense of integrity? When was the great god, “Get Results,” canonized? Is it to make no difference to us how we succeed, so long as we do succeed? Are faking and falsifying (safely, of course, or it wouldn’t be good business), the picking of simple pockets and gentle brains, the vast puffing out of our fronts to impress the multitude while not caring in the least what our backs are like—are these to be considered the legitimate conduct of commerce from the commercial point of view? If so, alas for us! Any country which considers its code of good business as gener- ally divorced from its code of good breeding (and good breeding is only another name for right feeling, inculcated or inherited) is a most distressful country, no matter how apparently pros- perous; and its citizens are certainly not to be envied. OPYRIGHTS; patents; original designs of mechanical, architectural, or artistic merit; original compositions, habilimental, musical, or literary; original ideas in almost any field are considered fair prey by any robber cailing himself an adapter, instead of what he is. And a man who would scorn to borrow a dollar from one, might pat himself on the back for stealing the heart out of one’s newly planned enterprise. He might have the strictest moral sense in regard to one’s wife and no dishonourable intentions in respect to the household silver— either of which would, perhaps, be replaceable—, but, in many an office environment, he would not scruple to take advantage of one in any way which could be beneficial to business. He would almost consider it a sacred duty to do so, and, nomatter how dirty the tricks of the trade, he would ennoble them inthe name of affairs. UT why can not affairs be conducted along lines of easy, comfortable, every-day rectitude of the sort natural to a man of honour? Why do we like to make hundreds of laws to prevent practices which we are employing thousands of lawyers to permit us to follow with impunity? Great business, of course, but rather topsyturvyish. To justify sharp dealings under the name of smart financiering, to consider the dollar as the only sign of success shows an outlook on life about as uninspired as that of an ancient adding-machine in a pawnbroker’s window. It really is dull to see nothing in a pound but the pennies one can squeeze out of it. Almost anybody can make money if he doesn’t care how he makes it, but, goodness knows, it is pretty poor fun if the doing of this is the only interest attaching to it. There is drama in business, as well as hard cash. There is romance; there is true sport; there is adventure. There is the friendly give-and- take of real competition; the pride of putting in one’s best and watching the effect of it. But all that makes life worth while is lost if one doesn’t play fair. OME of the best (as well as the worst) fellows in the world do not appear to recognize this. Rules for fair play seem to break easily when their shattering can be vindicated by those magic words, “making money.” The sort of general catch-who- catch-can which goes on among quite decent men is, of course, nothing compared to the craft of the foxiest—those keen-eyed experts who know just how far they can nip away the inventors’ credit, the artists’ and authors’ prestige, the simpletons’ profits and use them to their own advantage—, but it is a gaire that might be better played with better rules, for all that, and more enjoyed, too, by the better class of players in the long run. We are a great country; we are known as a great business people; let us also be known as upright in the smallest particulars of our business honour.

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68 THREE PORTRAITS OF AMERICAN WOMEN BY FQREIGN ARTISTS WHO HAVE RECENTLY VISITED AMERICA en ee DQM MANA WNWNADPV.SSd TB ;™WNNW ANH Mrs Tracy Dows (Left) This distinguished portrait of Mrs. Tracy Dows is representative of the finest work of Oswald Birley, who has had a phenomenal success in this country. In the opinion of the critics, Mr. Birley’s canvases will gain in value with the years Mrs. Ixvinc Brokaw (Right) Tade Styka, the Polish artist, who has painted some of the most beautiful women in America, made this charming study of Mrs. Irving Brokaw. Mr. Irving Brokaw is actively inierested in art and has spent the greater part of his time during the last few years in painting Peter A. Juley VOGUE Mrs. TEMPLETON CROCKER (Left) Lulo Blaas made this portrait of Mrs. Templeton Crocker, of California, who was Miss Héléne Irwin. A pink gown, scarlet roses, and jade earrings make an arresting colour scheme. Mrs. Crocker dresses with a flair to suit her marked individuality S Peter A. Juley ACRE ENE 1 eR # OR ER eal eS SPORE AE EE ich:

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April 15 Paul Laib, London Miss JOAN WHITRIDGE Sir William Orpen painted this expressive portrait of Miss Whitridge during one of ker recent visits to England. Miss Whit- ridge is the daughter of Mrs. Frederick W. Whitridge and the granddaughter of Matthew Arnold i ' ; Dana B. Merrill Mrs. Horace ALLEN (Left) This informal sketch of Mrs. Allen was made last summer in France by Jean de Mou- lignon and typifies the smart woman of the day in us spontaneity of pose et SI TST SEE ST Miss ELEANOR PETTINOS This portrait, painted by Mrs. Leslie Cotton and recently shown in an exhibition of the artist’s work at the Wildenstein Galleries, depicts Miss Pettinos, a charming débutante, in a Callot frock of many toned rose tulle THREE BEAUTIFUL WOMEN OF NEW YORK SOCIETY

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Madame Simone, the celebrated French ac- tress, has returned to New York after an ab- sence of twelve years. She began her season with a series of mati- nées in French and, later, will appear in Pirandello’s “Naked” and in “Open House,” Steichen Cleopatra”—and about the fashion in which Jane Cowl and the Selwyns have produced it. Yet, beauty and passion and character remain when time and the modern producer have hurled their javelins at Shakspere. On the whole, Shakspere made a bad job of this play. Shaw pointed this out thirty years ago and went ahead to make a better entertainment out of Cleopatra. The two plays—“Antony and Cleo- patra” and “Caesar and Cleopatra”—bear curious comparisons. Some of the best writing that either playwright ever did is to be found there. Shak- spere’s description of Cleopatra’s golden barge, the speech that Shaw wrote for Caesar facing the Sphinx—they match one another and front the rest of our dramatic literature with a complacent eye. As for characterization, there is the magni- ficient Caesar of Shaw to bolster up his neat little picture of a flapperish Cleopatra against the extraordinarily fine and rounded portrait of the Egyptian queen which Shakspere drew. Neither play is any model of dramaturgy; they both ramble along through a series of incidents loosely held together. But as sheer dramatic entertain- I: is easy to be critical about “Antony and SEEN on the STAGE by KENNETH MACGOWAW ment, Shaw’s play lords it over Shakspere’s in spite of the fact that Shakspere has on _his side the tragedy of Antony’s infatuation and the death of the queen. Shaw has nothing more serious than an old man’s momentary interest in a girl of six- teen. Shakspere has cluttered up half his play— almost every other scene—with Roman generals and Roman politics and Roman mouthings, all very dull and confused; while Shaw has taken care to make his Latins either amusing or inspiring. by Samuel Ruskin Golding Jane Cowl starts with the handicap of a not very good specimen of Shaksperian tragedy. I can not make up my mind whether or not she should be reproved for cutting the text to pieces. I am inclined to believe that, for once—and, perhaps, for the only time—,a producer is justi- fied in trying to improve on Shakspere’s play- writing. At any rate, Miss Cowl’s version is no duller than Shakspere’s in the scenes in Italy. It is blessedly short. The general effect of the performance is so-so. Jane Cowl, Frank Reicher, the director, and Rollo Peters, who plays Antony and who designed the scenery, have somehow pared down the beauti- fully passionate quality of the play and done the rest rather well. Reicher has put briskness into the acting and banned the laboured old “Shak- sperian” histrionism; but he has not built up any great scenes—unless in Cleopatra’s death. The people seem young and fresh and not very im- pertant. Like the settings, they do not err on the side of the heavy and the elaborate. There is charm here and spontaneity, but nothing that is sweeping and passionate and great. (Continued on page 08) STUER AES Re PM I Cy RT acy

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eke nel Kk fa ' iE’ Pie CEI BNI EE! 1 Faerie April 15 (Right) A wistfulness made all the more bewitching by the uproarious gaiety of tis sur- roundings is the essential quality of the dancing and pantomime of Gertrude Law- rence, the pathetic Parisian Pierrot of Charlot’s London Revue Le NTS NNT Tn anpongiomme Uddddddddddddddcdddddddddddddddddddddddlddddlddleldldd Wy x YH: Wd (Left) Beatrice Lillie, in this costume which conceals the flags of all the nations, en- riches the Britannia number, a particu- larly bright spot in Charlot’s Revue, by her uniquely comic playing LU dddcidddddddldedtdedddddddddeeeddeedldlddldddldldddle ped ss wy @Hugh Cecil, London Lc 1 kztlededtf].0, IW ST Two Photographs by Steichen (Left) Jack Buchanan, the masculine member of this British trio that has captivated Broadway, sings, dances, and generally diverts his American audiences in an ir- resistibly —_ leisurely fashion

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Red, green, and white glass decorations trim this small table. The dark flowers are red coral; the quaint white flowers are glass. Green Venetian glass candlesticks, green glass dishes holding red and white sweets, and glass fish on the mirror centrepiece carry out the scheme [Udddddddddddéddddddédéddée «Steichen ORIGINAL SUGGESTIONS FOR TABLE DECORATION Arrangements by Elsie de Wolfe VOGUE cares ee | The Copeland plates shown below, used on the table already described, belong to a set of fourteen, made in England about 1870 and decoraied by Bough, a famous arlist of that period. The rims of the plates are green and gold; the birds on the white medallion centres are gold Ml i :

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April 15 are: ssnsnstenonntnnene The details shown in the photograph al the right are part of a white decora- tion scheme, fairy-like in its delicacy. In the centre of the old linen and lace cloth, an exquisite crystal vase holds milky white glass flowers combined with white lilac from the garden. The two white Venetian glass swans hold lilacs and freesias. Crystal glasses and white plates complete the picture. This is an inexpensive table arrangement, yet one that has unlimited charm; silver from Udall and Ballou; linen from Grande Maison de Blanc, of New York Cececeeeeedlleeecedceeccececcegpillllldeddedeeldeedeceeeeeeeeeeedededcctedcelddddldlddddldddldtdd We YM “UM ddddccccceccdccddededeceeeceeeedecddec a N We MMMM We Wd ~ * Yl yA Yj ddd \ N YW Steichen Crystal predominates in this delight- ful table arrangement cf crystal candelabra, eighteenth-century glass jinger-bowls, and mirror centrepiece set in an antique silver frame. Two crystal swans, each holding a tulip, rest on the surface of the mirror, and in a bowl in the middle of this centre- piece are lovely coloured glass flowers combined with freesias. The com- bination of a few real flowers with tiny inexpensive ones of glass makes a fascinating decoration DECORATIONS FROM ELSIE DE WOLFE

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74 The BOYISH MODE ‘VOGUE PREDOMINATES 2 YOUTHFUL ENSEMBLES Ys (Left) The ensemble has entered the realm of sports clothes and appears in almost mascu- line adaptations. The sketch at the left shows a very smart version of this mode carried out in navy-blue wool rep trimmed with silver but- tons, with a sleeveless jacket and straight wrap-around skirt (Left) The white piqué blouse that completes the sports costume sketched at the extreme left ts buttoned to the skirt in a practical manner, permitting it to be easily removed for washing. The belted effect is placed almost at the normal waist-line MODELS FROM STEIN AND BLAINE (Right) In a country costume (extreme right) of grey Oxford cloth are cleverly combined the charac- teristics of the tailleur, the ensemble, and the sports frock. The double-breasted coat and wrap- around skirt are bound with black silk flat braid. The blouse is described below (Right) A straight overblouse of natural coloured linen forms a part of the costume sketched at the extreme right and makes the name “ensemble” even more appropriate by being attached with a row of buttons to the skirt. The string tie is of black silk

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Fine Chantilly lace falling in a grey cloud over a clinging underslip of mauve satin makes this charming dance frock. A wide band of powder-blue gros- grain ribbon tied in alarge bow directly in the front forms a delicate contrast to the becomingly soft tones of the frock LACE FORMS a BOND among EVENING GOWNS of DIVERSE TYPE Practically every evening mcde! made by this house has a scarf or cape to match. An interesting feature of this evening gown of maize crépe de Chine and lace is the kuge scarf of crépe encrusted with lace and worn draped about the shoulder with one end trailing on the ground MODELS FROM STEIN AND BLAINE The many surfaces of a gown of finely pleated black satin reflect the evening lights in a succession of gleaming move- ments. The yoke is formed of deep cream coloured lace joined by a narrow strip of lace to a pointed band of the same filmy material at the waist-line 75

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Scarfs are as important in Paris as in New York, as these three sketches show. This Rodier handkerchief is worn for travelling—folded, making a free scarf within the coat ds r\ ’ ; ? y R, c v coco v0 Sopot! { Madame Letellier wears a multi- coloured scarf placed between her sable wrap and her décolleté black satin gown. Green jade beads and red coral earrings are a_ novel jewellery combination A silk handkerchief in beconi.tg colours makes a charming substitute for a scarf. The one pictured here, tied behind the shoulder, is worn with an extremely décolleté gown VOGUE Black suéde gloves are beginning toappear nuw and then for evening wear with black gowns and effectively dis- play the jewelled bracelets worn over them This hat is typical of one of those most worn in Paris at the moment. The gold motif of the hat is repeated in the dress cuffs outlined in ostrich feathers SMART SPRINGTIME ACCESSORIES FROM PARIS

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April 15 77

B << , . /3\o 4 wht) 2 » Be A handkerchief of Scotch plaid georgette bound with plain crépe de Chine (above and below) _ | is worn knotted about the head These two gay handkerchiefs LE ; worn in different ways show / how becoming they are for gj

Mrs. Charles Munn wears a “bob”—new in its straight, shaggy look—, which is cut to form an uneven line beach wear ) . ¢ —— - } | O i Sy i a € se \ i) a iis 6 € OT ~~ y ‘ r A

Originality is the key-note in ihe wearing of jewellery of the present mode. One black pearl and one while pearl earring are worn together Chanel earrings, four or five beads long are of white pearls and steel beads that resemble black pearls. The neck chain as of sleel beads

ae ™ “\ rr ’ Pag f ) j 4\ , Wy} i GQ pl OAM, / \ / | hd i f ] f | i / | L_/ i : j } i i . { j The fascinating new fan from Duvellory is of ' S . ae °,3 i yellow swan feathers and gourah tipped with j yellow. Coloured thread stockings are being j j worn with simple tailored costumes / a — —4 / } iy F er f The Comtesse de Schcenborn wears a me / Dangling pendants make the bey The Comtesse de Schoenborn wears a vermilion enamel circlet, with dia- hype pi new note on bracelets of ARS necklace of oval pearls from shoulder mond setting, on the left hip of a GO / different colours worn on one , as to shoulder over @ marron crépe de marron Patou gown. Silver fringe arm ~ Chine frock. The pendant consists edges the scallops of the skirt “7 of four alternate pearls and emeralds BRING A NEW NOTE OF THE MODE TO NEW YORK

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Lydia, the object-lesson lady of the article, receives in a dress of grey lace over a black crépe slip. Despite her stout figure, she achieves elegance by means of the long concealing lines of the grey tulle sleeves and the attached scarf MODELS ON THESE TWO PAGES FROM T. M. AND J. M. FOX A GUIDE TO | YDIA Bulkley is quite short, rather stout, and very, very smart. Dieting, massage, and the cures of all countries have failed her, and the maid who takes Lydia every morning en nature and serves her to the great world 4 la Pari- stenne knows that her once beautiful body is a thing of the past. Nevertheless, Lydia is very chic indeed. Even in the dear dog-collar days when she possessed the smallest waist in New York and people said “she could wear anything, and look smart,” Lydia always chose her wardrobe with the greatest care, knowing this to be the secret of supreme chic. Now that she is twice her former girth, she is twice as care- ful in her choice and looks as smart as ever in clothes that take pounds from her apparent weight. This clever lady has no illusions about herself and is well aware that her weak points are her sagging chin, overdeveloped bust and hips, and fleshy upper arms and that her good points are her Very Skilful With Increasing Years, Often Bring Problems in Dress That Only Use of Line Can Solve Editor’s Note—Vogue has received so many letters from its readers asking advice on how to overcome imperfections. or to make them inconspicuous that it has decided to publish some of the communications, with suggestions on how to solve problems of age, figure, colouring, and difficulties Jor different types. If your type is not described, write to Vogue about it CHIC for the STOUT OLDER WOMAN blue eyes, snowy hair, and small feet. Every dress she buys must bring out these advantages and, above all, conceal the defects. This is the basis of her choice. Her waist-line no longer bothers her, for has not the clever Parisienne, who is the most successful dressmaker in the world, told her that to confine it is unnecessary for the present mode and would, moreover, press the superfluous flesh towards the bust and hips? Every season, in planning new gowns, she pursues the same idea, taking only what is becoming and sternly rejecting the smartest novelties if they are unsuitable to her figure. She does not desire to lead the mode, but she does desire to suggest it. Above all, she means to look her best as often as possible. Clever Lydia, therefore, is undismayed when she reads in her latest Vogue of lead-pencil silhouettes, shorter-than-last-season skirts, and frocks that are altogether sleeveless. She observes (Continued on page 100) Added Pounds NETO 2a SR

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i pou | il a Vi HH Lie | Black aie salln reed DESIGNS BY DOUGLAS POLLARD FOR FURTHER DESCRIPTION OF THESE DESIGNS FOR THE OLDER WOMAN, SEE PAGE 102

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ZEEE es REI a a SESS St This white crépe de Chine frock has such points in its favour as a scarf banded in colour—jade, rose, yellow, powder-blue, or orchid—to match the bands and yoke trimmed with white glass buttons; 14 to 40; $50 (Second figure) This smart two- piece frock once more proves the infinite smartness of white crépe de Chine. Here, it is trimmed with yellow, Copenhagen blue, or coral crépe bands and buttons; 14 to 18; $40 Gaaeeeeeresserss =) eC eOne een ecco 5 (Third figure) Superlatively chic is the combination of pleats and tiers in this street frock of crépe lanette, which may be had in powder-blue, navy, silver, or rust colour, edged with moire ribbon; 14 to 18; $60 The tiered and pleated apron front an important note in the spring mode is a charming detail of this frock with a Binche lace collar; in which black, navy, rose, cocoa, reseda-green, coral, or powder-blue; 14 to 44; $50 (Fourth figure) A two-piece dress of crépe trimmed with crépe buttons and white organdie collar and jabot expresses the chic boyish simplicity; in black, navy- blue, cocoa, or Lanvin green; sizes 14 to 18; $40 VOGUE

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April 15 bie ee geared a ea Py ee Or Soe A delightful crépe frock has a skirt made of three-inch ruffles. There is a white crépe insert in the bodice, and the neck and sleeves are bound with blue crépe; in navy, bluette, tan, or black; sizes, 16 to 383 $55.50 (Second figure) Straight, boyish lines are in a large measure responsible for the chic of this two-piece frock of black satin or crépe with white organdie collar and cuffs and a white kid belt; sizes, 14 to 18; $30 J Uf Zi } b - / (Third figure) A panel of hand- made embroidered lace in the blouse and a skirt with a finely pleated apron front add striking charm and interest lo this crépe frock; in black or cocoa; sizes, 14 to 40; $38.50 Note—On these two pages are presented some very smart new offerings from the shops. Readers who are unable to find these or similar models in local shops may purchase them through Vogue Shopping Service, 19 West 44th Street, by sending money order, certified cheque, or cheque on a New York bank. A slight fee is included in the prices The straight silhouette, distinguishes this two-piece crépe de Chine frock with inch-wide tucks—the lowest in contrasting colour—and smoked pearl buttons; in cocoa, navy, black, Lanvin green, or white; 14 to 40; $40 (Fourth figure) Georgette crépe in a very heavy quality over a crépe de Chine slip; makes this frock with a double-tunic skirt, a white yoke, and white pearl buttons; navy-blue, tan, or bluette; 14 to 40; $65.50

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VOGUE :. S RAS : w -w LN Ke PE 5 a) rein ays £ rn (Above) A slip-over filet sweater or overblouse (left) is made in a black and white design, with a belt of knitted black worsted. A similar sweater (right) has a beige background on which appears a pattern in yellow, white, and brown, with a brown knitted belt at a low waist-line Conspicuously smart among the newer sweaters are those made of wool embroidery woven on a coarse mesh and lined with crépe de Chine. They were first described on page 148 in the December 1 issue of Vogue for 1923. A detail of this work is shown in the sketch at the right MODELS FROM JAVOTTE pel The sketch illustrates a simple method of making the wrap- around skirt usually worn with sweaters. It proves most satis- factory when made of a straight piece of flannel and lapped over cnough to prevent separating (Right) A smart sports costume of (Left) A jacket of beige worsted darned on heavy net and bound with brown moire is embroidered in brown in a pattern suggestive of the Fair Isle sweaters; itis also made beige bouclette has an overblouse with the fashionable deep V_ neck- line and is trimmed with worsted embroidery in dark brown. The skirt is knitted in a manner that in white with red and black designs simulates small pleats io pers \4,, Hal miner and black bindings “GNF OE oo. wale, ANG SS ge . ta mata “4 ARE DARNED IN FILET PATTERNS SMART SWEATERS

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The tan knitied sweater, tastening in front, is a Brooks Brothers model. Plaided tan and blue band trims the sweater (Right) Brass buttons trim a double-breasted Rowe reefer of navy- blue serge worn with short trousers of the same material YOUTH A white drill jumper with bli jean collar and blue serge p'cated skirt is a p'easing — semidress combination; from Rowe Rowe dresses the small bow in a white driil jumper, with black silk tie, white cap, and long navy-blue serge trousers F all the many uniforms of the world, the one that is best known and admired universally is the blue sailor suit of the British Navy. Time has honoured it, because of the gay-hearted seafarers it has clothed; health and com- fort have acclaimed it; and the mode, because of its smartness of line, has endorsed it. Blue has always been the favourite colour of uniforms for men of the sea. The ancient Britons adopted it that they might not easily be seen in the water. And blue it is to-day, navy-blue—the suit usually of serge, the overcoat of pilot- cloth—that does not fade and stands hard wear. The sailor suit is probably the most healthful clothing to be found anywhere. Its open neck makes hardy throats; its collar, an American innovation, protects the back of the lungs; and the loose jumper and the wide trousers—useful to sailors because they may be rolled up —permit absolute freedom of movement. Above all, it is smart. Rowe of London sends _ youthful models to Brooks Brothers, their only American repre- sentative, some of which are displayed here. These three models wear the white cotton lanyard with bos’n’s whistle. The short trousers and cap are of blue serge MODELS FROM ROWE OF LONDON, IMPORTED BY BROOKS BROTHERS FOLLOWS WHEN JACK TAR SETS TH For outdoor days, a navy-blue jersey of heavy worsted with a high collar is very com- fortable; from Rowe (Left) The blue serge reefer with pleated skirt to match is from Rowe. The Glengarry cap and socks are from Brooks Brothers E SiyLe

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Frock No. 7671 Of distinctive character zs this black satin side-closing frock with its sheer white organdie vest and graceful cavalier cuffs. The low waist-line, where a slight fulness appears, is snug jitting; sizes, 34 to 42 Freck No. 7670 (Right) A cape-frock of viyella flannel achieves the desired note of novelly in its soft roll shawl-collar and long sleeves joined to drop-shoulders. This simple belted model is trimmed in a contrasting colour; 34 to 42 VOGUE DESIGNS for the SEAMSTRESS Note—Sketches showing back views of these models will be found on page 94 Frock No. 7672 A one-piece dinner-frock of ex- cepti mal chic is made of black satin de Lyon with drop-shoulder voke of white picador crépe. Loose bands trim the front, and slight drapery appears about the watst-line; sizes, 34 to 40 Frock No. 7673 (Left) Covert charmeen makes a de- cidedly smart coat-frock of pleasing lines. It is snug fitting about the hips to supply slight fulness and is buttoned at the low waist-line below the attractive shawl-collar; 34 to 42 Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City

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GUE LS dae ° ER 4pril 15 THE INFLUENCE OF THE TUNIC IS FELT ON THE YOUTHFUL MODE Frock No. 7676 An exceedingly chic straight-line tunic-frock of plaid alpaca is made with a side-closing overdress with drop-shoulders. The slender under- skirt is joined to a slip founda- tion; sizes, 16 to 20 Frock No. 7677 (Right) Powder-blue polana cloth makes this trotteur with a convert- ible collar, straight, belted back, and front fashioned in an overblouse effect; 16 to 20 Frock No. 7674 (Left) Chinese influence is seen in a two-piece frock of white flannel trimmed with coloured braid. It has a three-quarter-length drop-shoulder blouse and a separate skirt joined toa lining; 14 to 20 Frock No. 7675 A delightfully girlish frock expresses the mode in rose coloured organdie with inset orchid panels. Drop- shoulders supply the short sleeves, and ribbon holds the fulness at the sides; 14 to 20 Note—Sketches showing back views of these models will be found on page 94 Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City

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Suit No. 2182 Rose coloured linen with touches This practical little play frock of This coat of beige polana cloths of white makes this attractive suit white duretta cloth banded in blue for a little girl has a shoulder- with a double-breasted smock and includes knickers and a simple yoke cut in one piece with the straight trousers; 2 and 4 years gathered smock; 2 to 6 years front and back panels; 6 te 12 FROCKS FOR OUTDOOR AND INDOOR HOURS OF YOUTH Note—-Sketches show- ing back views of these models will be found on page 94 uf ” , Rompers No. 2181 Frock No. 2108 These rompers of sturdy pamico (Right) This small miss wears a cloth have comfortable fulness ; q SS ws bp Lb * ofeec frock of reseda-green pongee at the mee se ae, £ gathered at the neck and piped in i a ca darker green; 4 to 10 Frock No. 2153 Coat No. 2212 Frock No. 2208 A dainty party frock of rose coloured rexley voile is trimmed with simple shirrings and nar- row blue ribbons; 2 to ro vears Frock No. 2195 (Left) Pleated panels add charm and ease to a flannel frock in henna with cross-stitch in a con- trasting tone; 4. to 12 Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City omar TS TSE RE Free Thr ee ee ee me eer

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GUB April 15 87 | take the lead with flashing speed I’m famous for my hustle. | get my zeal from Campbell's meal— It gives me pep and muscle! SEER Fo sti a1 Soup for health— every day! CAMPBELL SOUP COMPANY 9f¢ * / CAMDEN, N.J., U-S-A- aa ¥ waas Just what a good meal ; should contain/ The iron of the green vegetables The valuable mineral salts The nourishment of cereals The invigoration of beef broth An invitation to your appetite A satisfaction to your hunger SAGAS RINE RGSS Ba AMR! EROS MSIE AL TS] A ERE ae eee ia a 12 cents a can

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Frock No. 2207 E ae =f =) 4 (WAWAVAUAVAWAMRAM Am MW éRu 8 AtlV ay on = ——e EE Suit No. 2188 (Below) Straight trousers show below an _ overblousex. trimmed with white bands in this suit of blue pamico;: 2 and 4 years [> \y — = — ~~ . OU CS oy HS \ {S =e a ee Sen eeer= 3 san CH Cass a -tt Litt’ LOT? 7, ty an = me Note—Sketches showing back views of these models will be found on page 04 Frock No. 2106 (Right) Rexley voile in jonquil-yellow trimmed with crisp organdie frills makes a charming Summer Frock; (Left) A smart little frock of checked and plain gingham has a shaped yoke and short sleeves cut in one piece; sizes, sizes, 2 to 10 years Frock No. 2193 A charming effect results from cross-stitch embroidery on a voile frock in pale orchid; 4 lo I0 years VIVID LIGHTFULLY Coat No. 2218 Very trim and practical is this brown-and-tan plaid camel’ s-hair sports coat with deep 4 to 14 years COLOURS IN CLOTHES EXPRESS DE- THE BRIGHT SPIRITS OF YOUTH Frock No. 2221 Vivella flannel in powder-blue makes a two-piece frock of the sports type for the small girl; sizes, 8 to 14 years pockets; 4 to 12 years Frock No. 2222 A very lovely kimono-cut frock is of rexley voile in rose colour with cross-stitch in darker tones; 6 to 12 years RRR CA ep eg ERR eRe Se Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City A Nid els G |

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a ; 3 4 = : ARBRE SRE ES eg ANID OnE ON 5 aaa PR HE ar Cutex Introductory Set * Rose pearl nails in smooth cuticle make the hands so lovely. very single step Gleaming rose pearl nails evenly framed in soft, smooth cuticle make the hands so lovely that it is a pleasure to watch them moving among the tea things, fixing a straying lock, reaching for the almonds. Thousands of women use the manicure that gives exqui- sitely groomed nails quickly and easily. famous manicure authority in the world, has provided every single thing the most particular woman wants to make her nails lovely. in the manicure from start to fmsh Cutex, the most You can get each thing you need for the fol- lowing manicure separately, or complete assortments of the wonderful Cutex preparations in rose and black cases. Shape the Nail Tips Becomingly— Of course the preliminary to the Cutex manicure is the shaping of the nails, For this there are in the Cutex sets a supple steel file and fine emery boards. First file the nail to the length you like with long swift strokes from the corner of the nail towards the tip. Then with an emery board shape the tip and smooth away any rough places. Either round it evenly like the finger tip or make a delicate point at the very center. Soft, Smooth Cuticle is the most Important Step— to the nail and loosens the little ‘The most famous Cutex preparation is the wonderful liquid that makes it possible to have a lovely rim of fresh smooth cuticle without any dangerous cutting at all. Twist a bit of cotton around a Cutex orange stick and wet it in Cutex Cuticle Remover. Then gently push the skin back around the base of each nail. This frees the delicate rim where it has grown fast particles of dry skin that split off when this happens. Use the Re- mover, too, to bleach the nails. Pass the wet stick beneath each tip and over any stains. Now rinse the fingers and wipe away all the little rough edges—the superfluous particles of skin. A lovely rim of soft even cuticle is left around each nail. Introductory Set — now only 12c Fill out this coupon and mail it with 12c in coin or stamps for the Introductory Set containing trial sizes of Cutex Cuticle Remover, Powder Polish, Liquid Polish, Cuticle Cream (Comfort), emery board and orange stick. Address Northam Warren, 114 West » New York, or if you live in Canada, Dept. V4, 200 Mountain St., Montreal, Canada. Cutex’s latest success is their Pow- der Polish. It makes the nails gleam with a lovely rose tinted brilliance almost instantly. Just shake a little on your palm from the new shaker top and with the fewest strokes the nails are polished —pinkly glow- ing. You will not believe a pow- der could polish so quickly nor last so long, until you try it. Cutex makes equally good Liquid, Cake and Paste Polishes. For the between-manicure care This Wonderful new Powder for the Rose Pearl Lustre— of the nails Cutex Cuticle Cream (Comfort) contains the necessary ingredients to keep the nails and cuticle smooth and healthy. Smooth a little into the nail base at night. If you have not tried the com- plete Cutex manicure, send for the set offered below or get a iarger one for 60c, $1.00, $1.50 and $3.00. The articles separately are 35c at drug and department stores in the United States and Canada or chemist shops in England. MAIL THIS COUPON WITH 12c TODAY Name ’ NortHam Warren, Dept. V4 114 West 17th St., New York I enclose 12¢ in stamps or coin for new Introductory Set containing enough Cutex for six manicures, Street (or P. O. box)

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90 e e Ai REL See one « 4i% PTAA — «” . a, (Cae, ~, Seid - . ee ( (ENO WW a Cee Every ‘Woman is a “Rainbow ...and to match the varied hues of her changeable self, BABANI suggests these several sympathetic perfumes Your perfume must match your radiant self. No woman need ever be a monotone. You are born with a rainbow personality—a vivid, shimmer- ing thing that is different with every frock, every occasion, every new contact that you make... Howshall one perfume always express your rain- bow of thoughts? Does one gown always suit you? One coiffure always flatter you? Indeed, no! You must have a rainbow of perfumes... Babani has made a rainbow of perfumes for you. Each of his exquisite fragrances is supremely good style, and expressive of a definite feeling. A CHYPRE — the new leading Babani perfume. Send for it at once; it is acclaimed the most fashion- able in Europe. Be the first of your set to have this distinguished perfume. $2.75, $7, $9, $22. AMBRE DE DELHI is for moments of mag- nificence, for frocks of brocade and formality. It is the perfume for the Opera, for other splendid gatherings. It is good on fur. $2.75, $7, $9, $12. SOUSOUKI is soft, appealing. It is the wist- ful fragrance of sachet. It is fitting especially for softly feminine frocks, for intimate tea par- ties, for pretty under-things. $2.75, $6.50, $9, $12. AFGHANTI is essentially daring. It is colorful, riotous, untamed. It is for frocks of startling color, of bold design, for sport clothes of reck- less swagger. $2.75, $7, $9, $9.50. MING is young, gaily, laughingly young—yet not entirely unsophisticated. $2.75, $6.50, $9, $9.50. LIGEIA is romantic, imaginative. It matches those moments of splendid laziness, when you revel in lovely trailing negligées, joying in beauty and ease. $2.75, $7, $9.50, $10. + ,’ te me) And there are more—a Babani fragrance for every change in the rain- bow that is You! The several Babani perfumes that you use on your costumes will always blend exquisitely about your person, for each Babani fragrance is created with the same keynote of beauty and chic. You can buy Babani perfumes at the Salons of Elizabeth Arden—at the big Fifth Avenue stores—at more than 1,000 smart shops all over the world. ABAN) It you would like to have Elizabeth Arden’s experienced advice in choosing the correct berfumes for your frocks, write describing your costume to Elizabeth Arden, 673 Fifth Avenue, New York, and she will send you a personal letter containing her suggestions, with a copy of BABANI'S lovely perfume booklet DE CAMERON, INC., 681 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK EXCLUSIVE AGENTS FOR BABANI IN AMERICA ‘Gm: 4, Harting WO SC” REG VOGUE Narrow buff chests with small flower motifs flank an old, gilt-framed mirror. The drawers hold such accessories as veils, gloves, and handkerchiefs, while the shelf below the glass provides place for toilet articles ON HER DRESSING-TABLED ALANCE, poise, _relaxation-— B these are things we all want and need, yet how few know how to acquire them! We can not all of us hope to have beauty, but every woman may have grace, and none need have fat, for there are effectual methods of acquiring the one and dispensing with the other. One such method, described in this article, consists of gymnastic treatments given in one’s own home by a Swedish specialist. One first hearsof this expert, probably, through some friend who is improved in body and spirit and who enthusiasti- cally urges her admirers to try “just one treatment.” She explains how this woman teaches the correct use of the muscles so that walking becomes a pleasure instead of an effort: how the ache and the strained feeling disappear from tired backs and shoulders; but, most important of all, how the too solid flesh in unbecoming places will melt away or the distressing hollows will disappear—for all these unpleasant things are the result of incorrectly used muscles. So, reluctantly, perhaps, the specialist is sent for; she appears on the minute. Almost before she has her hat and coat off, one falls under the spell of her courteous manner, her soft voice with its alluring accent. The pupil is made to stand, walk, sit down, and get up while Madame studies her as if she were a new book to be read and enjoyed; then, the real work begins. LEARN TO RELAX The first command is to relax, relax, and again relax: “Drop your shoulders!” “Drop your hips!” Don’t grip the floor with your feet!” Then comes the next command, “Relax to lengthen.” The knees are bent, then straightened, as one rises on the toes and comes back softly on the heels until the muscles in that dreadful hollow between the shoulder-blades pull and stretch and arouse hope that the hollow will soon be beautifully filled out. One whirls one’s arms like a demented windmill, breathing deeply; then raises them over the head, elbows straight and hands drooping loosely from the wrist. One sways from side to side to develop muscle and to get rid of that unpleasant fulness dreaded by the middle-aged. EXERCISE NEGLECTED MUSCLES Then come several other arm move- ments, all pulling and strengthening the neglected muscles. After that, the command is to rest by “drooping.” Secretly amused, one attempts to droop, but is a trifle horrified to find that one seems to be made in a solid piece from the top of the head to the sole of the feet. The encouragement of the teacher, however, brings one safely through several trials to an obedience to the commands, “Relax to roll!” and “Relax to unroll!” It begins to be fun; the kinks are coming out of one’s spine! After this last exercise, one is allowed to sit still for a time while Madame makes an inspection of the feet and teaches the unwilling toes to wriggle and clutch. In the days of Jane Austen, no well-brought-up young woman—or old one either—would have mentioned her feet, far less confess to what is politely called an enlarged joint, but, in these less squeamish days, there is no hesitation in admitting such defects and endeavouring to correct them. By the time the treatment is ended, one’s confidence in the exercises is established. There is no reason, Ma- dame tells us, why we should not walk easily and gracefully and learn balance poise and relaxation, provided we ar sufficiently interested to work and t practise the simple exercises she teaches She does not profess to wave a magic wand over her patients; they must cooperate in mind and body and may expect to attain the maximum of benefit when they take regularly, one or more times a week, the one-hour treatments. Note—Vogue Shopping Service, 19 West 44th Street, will be glad to furnish, upon request, the address of this specialist.

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(UE April 15 Painted for Cadillac Motor Car Co by Neysa McMain “Contentment” —Absolute contentment in her 3 T A motor car choice is reserved for the woman who owns a New V3 Cadillac. No feeling of dissatisfaction mars her motor- ing pleasure; no desire besets her for any car other than the one she possesses. Its rich, distinctive beauty, dominant in any company, is a never failing source of delight to her. The comfort of its deep, soft cushions, its ease and evenness of travel, and its won- derful facility of operation and control, all contribute to her joy of ownership. She takes special satisfaction in the safety afforded by Cadillac Four-Wheel Brakes, and in the performance of the new harmonized and balanced V-Type eight cylinder engine—as smooth and quiet as it is powerful and dependable. Each succeeding ride in the New V-63 Cadillac confirms her belief in its leadership. It is the car she desires, and the car she possesses, and therein lies the secret of her enviable motoring contentment. CADILLAC MOTOR CAR COMPANY, DETROIT, MICHIGAN Division of General Motors Corporation N D A CADILLAC V-63 ROADSTER 91 ULE ALS

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inghams as new and delightful as each summer day Fresh and lovely come new ginghams embroidered all over with delightful motifs. Others with em- broidery in a band down one side, to be used for trimming wherever you will! Gay plaids for the present vogue, and checks and clear plain colors —never in all the hundred years and more since the first ginghams were handwoven in the little Scotch village have David & John Anderson ginghams been more enchanting! Since the amount of this choice gingham avail- able for import here is limited, it is provident to choose early while the selection is complete. If your dealer has not secured David & John Anderson ginghams write our New York distrib- utors, Elms & Sellon, 230 Fifth Avenue, who will gladly tell you where to secure them. Davip € JOHN ANDERSON ScoTcH GINGHAMS S O C VOGUE E : Y Births Engagements—Continued NEW YORK Behn—On February 1, to Mr. and Mrs. Sosthénes Behn, a son. Squiers—On January 28, to Mr. and Mrs. Bard MacDonald Squiers, a son. Vanderbilt—On February 20, to Mr. and Mrs. Reginald Claypool Vanderbilt, a daughter. Welling—On February 20, at Scarsdale, New York, to Mr. and Mrs. Lindsay H. Welling, a son. BOSTON Lippincott—On February 16, at Arling- ton, Massachusetts, to Mr. and Mrs. William A. Lippincott, third, a son. GEORGIA Donaldson—On February 17, at Fort Oglethorpe, Georgia, to Lieutenant and Mrs. T. Q. Donaldson, a son, John O. Willson Donaldson. PHILADELPHIA Barker—On February 11, to Mr. and Mrs. George Sands Barker, a son, George Sands Barker, junior. Bell—On February 6, to Mr. and Mrs. John C. Bell, junior, a son, George Leonard Bell. Carpenter—On January 22, to Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton Disston Carpenter, a daugh- ter, Marjorie Carpenter. Rankin—On February 8, at Germantown, Pennsylvania, to Mr. and Mrs. John H. Rankin, second, a daughter, Jaqueline Jane Rankin. Remington—On January 15, to Mr. and Mrs. George C. Thomas Remington, a daugh- ter, Sylvia Clarke Remington. Wetherill—On February 9, at Chestnut Hill, Pennsylvania, to Mr. and Mrs. W. Chat- tin Wetherill, a daughter. Deaths NEW YORK Bleeker—On February 20, Sarah Bache Bleeker. Foster—On February 22, Roger M. Foster, husband of Laura P. Moxley Foster. Matthews—On February 4, Ada Smith Matthews, wife of Brander Matthews. Nicoll—On February 15, Maud Churchill Nicoll, wife of DeLancey Nicoll. Trimble—On February 18, Richard Trimble, son of the late Merritt Trimble. BOSTON Benton—On February 4, Everett C. Benton. Sargent—On February 16, Marian Apple- ton Coolidge Sargent, wife of the late Lucius Manlius Sargent. LONDON Selfridge—On February 25, Madame Lois Selfridge, mother of H. Gordon Selfridge. MONTE CARLO Gray—On February 24, Susan Irvin Gray» wife of the late George Griswold Gray. NEW ORLEANS Garland—On December 31, at Opelousas, Louisiana, Julia Lawrence Bullard Garland, wife of the late Henri Lastrapes Garland. PROVIDENCE Emery—On February 15, Dr. Henry Crosby Emery. ROME The Duchess of Genoa—On February 26, the Duchess of Genoa, wife of Prince Thomas of Savoy, the Duke of Genoa. SAN FRANCISCO Buckingham—On February 2, Mary Gordon Buckingham, wife of the late George H. Buckingham. WASHINGTON Selfridge—On February 4, Rear-Admiral Thomas O. Selfridge. Van Rensselaer—In February, the Rever- end Stephen Van Rensselaer, son of Eugene Van Rensselaer and the late Sarah Pendleton Van Rensselaer. Engagements NEW YORK Boullee-Livingston—Miss Florence J. Boullee, daughter of Mrs. E. C. Boullee, to Mr. James Duane Livingston, junior. Jackson-Farr—Miss Louise Arnold Jack- son, daughter of the Reverend Frederick Wolcott Jackson and Mrs. Jackson, to Mr. F. Shelton Farr, son of Mr. and Mrs. John Farr. Macy-Lewis—Miss Edytha R. Macy, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. V. Everit Macy, to Mr. Burnham Lewis, son of Mr. Theodore J, Lewis. Murphy-Center— Miss Serena Deas Mur- phy, daughter of Dr. Deas Murphy and Mrs, Murphy, to Mr. Edward Livingston Center, son of the late Henry Livingston Center and the late Susan Warren Innes Center. Nelson-Merriam—Miss_ Leita Nelson, daughter of Mrs. Henry Pearce, to Mr. Ralph Stewart Merriam, son of Mrs. Daniel J. Markey, of Detroit, Michigan. Opdycke-Peltz— Miss Mary EllisOpdycke, daughter of Mrs. Leonard E. Opdycke, :o Mr. John DeWitt Peltz, son of Mrs. Jolin DeWitt Peltz, of Albany, New York. Potter-Ayer— Miss Eleanor Potter, daug!i- ter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Clarkson Potter, to Mr. Richard Boyd Ayer, son of Dr, James C. Ayer and Mrs. Ayer. BALTIMORE Minnigerode-Hunt— Miss Virginia Powell Minnigerode, daughter of Mr. Charles Minnigerode, to Mr. Alan Hunt, son of Mr, and Mrs. H. I. Hunt, of Boston, Massa- chusetts. Gale-Whittemore—Miss Emma Whit- man Gale, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Lyman Whitman Gale, to Mr. William Edward Whittemore, son of Mr. and Mrs. Homer F, Whittemore. CHICAGO Robbins-Odell— Miss Frances S. Robbins, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry S. Robbins, to Mr. William Rice Odell, junior, son of Mr, and Mrs. William R. Odell. White-Spencer—Miss Gertrude White, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. F. Edson White, to Mr. William M. Spencer, son of Mrs. William M. Spencer. DETROIT Shelden-Stackpole— Miss Annette Alger Shelden, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry D. Shelden, to Mr. Stephen Theodore Stackpole. MONTREAL Russell-Lambert— Miss Flora McDonald Russell, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. A. J. Russell, of Vancouver, to Count Alexander Lambert, son of the Count and Countess Lambert, of Paris. PHILADELPHIA Bartow-McCall—Miss Elizabeth Dulles .Bartow, daughter of Mrs. Josiah Blackwell Bartow, to Mr. Shirley Carter McCall, son of Mr. and Mrs. George McCall. Bartow-Reichner— Miss Emily Kaighn Bartow, daughter of Mrs. Henry Blackwell Bartow, to Mr. Aiken Reichner, son of Mr. and Mrs. L. Irving Reichner. Leonard-Perot—Miss Dorothy Leonard, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Read Leonard, to Mr. Charles Poultney Perot, third, son of Mrs. L. Knowles Perot. Newlin-Royce—Miss Margaret Newlin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Richard M. Newlin, to Mr. Frank Ames Royce, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick P. Royce, of Dedham, Massa- chusetts. Wurts-Riggs—Miss Rosamond Wurts, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Kennedy Wurts, to Mr. Benjamin Reath Riggs, son of the Reverend Edward Riggs and Mrs. Riggs, of Florence, Italy. SAN FRANCISCO Beardsley-Harrison—Miss Barbara Beardsley, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George P. Beardsley, of San Rafael, California, to Mr. Gregory Harrison, son of Mrs. Edward Harrison and the late Judge Harrison. Rebelle-Talbott—Miss Ednah Rebelle, daughter of Mr. John Gwinn Rebelle, to Dr. Edward Melville Talbott. Weddings NEW YORK Alker-Ingalls—On March 4, in the Church of the Resurrection, Mr. Carroll B. Alker and Miss Katherine Ingalls, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George H. Ingalls. Bloedel-Palmedo—On February16, in the Chapel of St. George’s Church, Mr. Lawrence Hotchkiss Bloedel, son of Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Bloedel, of Seattle, Washington, and Miss Eleanor Palmedo, daughter of Mrs. Ulric Palmedo, of Great Barrington, Massachusetts. Collins-Loree—On March 8, in the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes, Lieutenant David McLernon Collins, U. S. N., son of the late Dr. David A. Collins and Mrs. Collins, of Boston, Massachusetts, and Miss Louise Claire Loree, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Leonor Frisnel Loree. Elliott-Hall—On February 14, in the Church of the Heavenly Rest, Mr. Chetwood Elliott, son of Mr. and Mrs. John Chetwood Elliott, and Miss Julia Hall, daughter of Mr. Henry J. S. Hall. (Continued on page 96) ee ere — es Ne aes res somes 9 9 ee

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A set of Wamsutta Percale sheets and pillow-cases makes a perfect gift to the young housekeeper. Hemstitched and with scalloped edge in all sizes, Moment 2m gine. 0 3 i Pillow-cases of Wamsutta Percale For monogramming or initialing, k a —hand embroidered, plain or * “ the fine strong texture of Wamsutta en scalloped, are a handsome adorn- i. qf tn A Z t Percale affords the richest of long Ee ment to the guest room beds. lasting backgrounds. - HAT a delight to the eye is the ordinary cotton. Try them, and you will snow-white luxurious beauty _ find that when ordinary sheets are grow- of Wamsutta Percale. Whata ing thin and wearing out, Wamsutta Per- Re protection to the housekeep- _cale will be soft and strong and exquisite. a ing budgetits fine, closely woven texture, At your best stores—in all sizes—plain, e guaranteeing years of hard service. hemstitched or scalloped. Be Lovelier even than fine linen, Wamsutta © WAMSUTTA MILLS, NEW BEDFORD, MASS. NS : Founded 1846 ie Percale Sheets and Pillow-cases cost Vety Rint EY WATTS & CO. Selling Agents E much less, and but little more than 44 LEONARD STREET, NEW YORK P | és WAMSUTTA : ie PERCALE Sheets and Pillow Cases CThe Finest of Cottons . RE at a ws er ce ey ee

Page 100

g PRYDE PHARMACAL CO. 100 Broadway, Hannibal, Mo. For the enclosed 50c send PRYDE to /lere it ism a quick,p to remove hair! Apply Pryde Cream to the back of neck, arms, underarms, plain water, rinse the hair away.

nil «2 leasant way be! A Cream! Smooth, cool, harmless. And as easy to use as powdering your nose!

< Solves hospital problem Sensitive scalp wounds, matted with hair, have always been a problem A cooling application of Pryde Cream, quickly but gently dissolves the hair and cleanses the wound, Also wounds so treat- ed heal more quickly.

Hair roots deep seated A magnified illus- tration of the hair root and glands, shows their firm anchorage in the tis- sues, And explains why authorities re- cognize that “re- moval of the root’’ is usually unsatisfac- 1ory.

Ww q we i, . ala MAIL THIS Just imagine it! A refined cream that re- moves hair --- gently and pleasantly, as atrue | toilet article should. No harshness, no mix- ing. Nothing to melt. Merely press from the tube and apply as you would a favorite cold cream. Then after a few minutes, rinse it off | with ordinary water. The hair goes with it. And the skin is left cool, refreshed, free from | odor, whitened, and as smooth as satin. | This new cream is called Pryde. And now, for the first time may be obtained in sealed | tubes, at the modest price of 50c. At toilet | goods counters. Or send in the coupon below. | A time tested method --- perfected in the Laboratory. Pryde is a toilet luxury --new, but by no means untried. It has been thoroughly tested and proved by time. Andis now recognized as a_ scientifically correct. common sense method. The process was discovered more than twenty years ago, but was then too ex- pensive. It made the cream too costly. Too few could afford to useit. Now that has been changed. The Laboratory has applied modern methods. And has found an amazingly simple process. The result is a delightful cream, free from the discouragements of the many old time hair removers. Harsh or expensive methods, now unnecessary ! its growth. It matters not how much one may pay, nor how much time may be required, no method can do more than remove hair. Pryde does that. But with the most welcome advan- tage, that it does it quickly, pleasantly, allat one time --and at a cost that is nominal, Pryde is meeting with instant acceptance every- where. Itis so simple, So direct. And experience proves it by far the most satisfactory way, Author- ities indorse and recom- mend it. For they know that just as the nails are groomed as their growth requires it, so should hair be removed as required by Where to obtain Pryde. At toilet goods counters in Department Stores and Drug Stores. Shipments are being made to dealers everywhere as rapidly as possible. If your dealer has not received a supply, send in the Coupon for a tube in plain wrapper, by return mail, postpaid. Guarantee: Should any tube of Pryde, be found unsatisfactory, return it to the Laboratory at once for replacement -— or refund.

Name Address City & State “What Every Woman Should Know”’. V 41524

G FCEQIN | cmass n Should Know”. i Removes hair pleasantly. comp imentary copy inciu ea wi eacno e *

limbs--then with

2182 These frocks for the younger element, front views of which are shown on page 86, provide for activity by means of gathers and pleats 2207 Simplicity and bright colour mark these youthful dresses and play

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2183

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Vogue’s Book of Etiquette is an authority, but it is also a delightful friend gifted with wisdom, wit and charm—a friend whom one can consult with pleasure, depend upon with certainty, and exhibit with pride, for it is attractively bound and excellently printed. This volume costs $4, postage VOGUE’S BOOK OF ETIQUETTE prepaid.

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Page 101

nome ine te — ee UP ST RES BODY by FISHER a The user is more continuously conscious of the body of his car than of any other part. It is important, therefore, that he assure himself the comfort, luxury, and enduring satisfac- tion which is guaranteed by the emblem— Body by Fisher FISHER BODY CORPORATION, DETROIT CLEVELAND WALKERVILLE, ONT. ST. LOUIS

Page 102

C VOGUE E T Y (Continued from page 92) a 0-0 =O - an O- 8 OOO OS SO SOS SSS McCutcheon’s Fifth Avenue Shopping Can be Done at Home You don’t need to put off your Fifth Avenue Shopping until you have time to go to New York. Wherever you live you can shop at McCutcheon’s with complete satisfaction and confidence—by mail. Write Today for New Spring and Summer Catalog Send for the new Spring and Summer Catalog and do your shopping from its pages at home. Every- thing is fully described and pictured in detail so that selection is as easy as if you visited the Linen Store personally. You will find in this catalog an excellent variety of merchandise. There are many different patterns of Table Cloths and Napkins, exquisite Fancy Linens, durable Bed Linens and Towels. Children’s Dresses and Underwear, too. And all those charming per- sonal accessories—Lingerie, Sweaters, Hose, Blouses, Neckwear, Handkerchiefs, Laces, Imported Dress Fabrics and a host of other necessities. All Merchandise is from Our Regular Stocks Every article and every yard of goods you buy from this catalog is standard McCutcheon quality —exactly the same merchandise you would get if you were buying over our own counters. The prices are moderate—in many cases representing very special values. Do your Fifth Avenue shopping in your own home. Your orders by mail will receive prompt and careful attention. = 0: = 0-0-0 —e-) ss es eS eS > 8S 2 5S 2S = SS SS SSeS SS Weddings—Continued Weddings—Continued — Fisher-Potter—On February 28, in Grace Church, Mr. Frank Cyril Fisher and Miss Julia Anne Potter, daughter of Mrs. Julian Potter. Gould-Poole—On February 28, in St. George’s Chapel, Mr. Francis Lewis Gould, son of Mrs. E. Sherman Gould, and Miss Virginia K. Poole, daughter of Mr. James E. Poole, of Washington, D. C Jones-Stecker—On February 27, in the Church of the Ascension, Mr. Lester P. Jones, son of Mr. and Mrs. Westley Jones, of Brookline, Massachusetts, and Miss Flora Christine Stecker. Lefferts-Pierce—-On March 1, at Bayside, Long Island, Mr. Allen Lefferts, son of Mrs. Charles Farnham Collins, and Miss Helen Bancroft Pierce, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Winslow S. Pierce. Schaii-Carleton—On February 4, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Mr. Charles E. Schall, son of Mr. William Schall, and Mrs. Dorothy Cushing Carleton, daughter of Dr. Herbert Cushing, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Tilghman-Stelle—On February 109, in the First Presbyterian Church, Greenwich, Connecticut, Mr. William Donnell Tilghman, of Baltimore, Maryland, and Mrs. Elsie Gordon Stelle, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Charles Gordon, of Cleveland, Ohio. BOSTON Batchelder-Abbott—On F\ oruary 1, in Trinity Church, Mr. George Lewis Batchelder, son of Mr. and Mrs. G. L. Batchelder, and Miss Katherine Abbott, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Gordon Abbott. Bell-Fenno—On March 1, in Trinity Church, Mr. Arthur W. Bell, son of the late Mr. and Mrs. Arthur W. Bell, of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and Miss Marion H. Fenno, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Nicoll Fenno. Callan-Hemenway—On February 24, in Emmanuel Church, the Reverend John J. Callan and Miss Mary Hemenway, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. Augustus Hemenway. CHICAGO Buford-Warren—On February 20, Mr. Paul Chalmers Buford, junior, son of Mrs. Louise B. Buford, of Memphis, Tennessee, and Miss Anne Warren, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Guy Scott Warren. Egan-Guertin—On February 16, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, Mr. Ellis P. Egan and Miss Lucille Guertin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edwin H. Guertin. G FLORENCE Origo-Cutting—On March 4, the Mar- chese Antonio Origo and Miss Iris Cutting, daughter of Lady Sybil Scott, and the late William Bayard Cutting, junior, of New York. LONDON Winn-Perkins—On March 24, the Hon. Reginald Henry Winn, son of the late Lord and Lady St. Oswald, and Miss Alice Perkins. PARIS Dunn-Ghika—On February 26, Dr. B. Sherwood Dunn, of New York, and Princess Héléne Ghika. Perkins-Penel—On February 4, Mr. Rus- sell Perkins, of New York and Pomfret Center, Connecticut, and Madame Georgette Penel. PHILADELPHIA Harris-Diffenderffer—On February 23, Mr. William Barney Harris, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. William Barney Harris, of Baltimore, Maryland, and Miss Cora Virginia Diffen- derffer, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles H. Diffenderffer. Hastings-Babbitt—On February 5, Mr. Alan Wood Hastings, son of Mr. and Mrs. W. W. Hastings, of Hancock, New Hampshire, and Miss Marv Evelyn Babbitt, daughter of Dr. James A. Babbitt and Mrs. Babbitt. Robins-Davis—On February 14, in St. James’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Mr. James Hamilton Robins, son of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Robins,and Miss Helen Wood Davis, ee daughter of Dr. Carl R. Davis and Mrs, Davis, of Parktown, Johannesburg, Africa. SAVANNAH Judkins-Leakin—On February 6, Mr. William Duncan Judkins, of Virginia, and Mrs. William Ridgley Leakin. Weddings to Come NEW YORK Barber-Larocque—On April 22, in Trinity Chapel, Miss Louise Yandell Barber, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Donn Barber, to Mr. Joseph Larocque, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph rocque. Brooke-Harriman—On April 21, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, Miss Marie Brooke, daughter of Lieutenant-Commander B. Hayes Brooke and Mrs. Brooke, to Mr. Alan Harri- man, son of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Wright Harriman. Brown-Morss—On Apri! 26, Miss Sylvia E. Brown, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Franklin Q. Brown, to Mr. Charles A. Morss, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Charles A. Morss, of Boston, Massachusetts. Gilbert-Perry—On April 22, Miss Mar- garet Bacon Gilbert, daughter of Mrs. Bacon Gilbert, to Mr. Gray Perry. Hays-Bonner—On May 7, Miss Ethel Sanders Hays, daughter of Mr. and Mrs, William Henry Hays, to Mr. Douglas Griswold Bonner, son of Mr. and Mrs. Faul Hyde Bonner. Spencer-Philips—On April 25, in Grace Church, Miss Mary Spencer, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Seth S. Spencer, to Mr. Kenneth Philips, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick D, Philips. Stout-Thaw—On April 26, in St. Thomas's Church, Miss Margaret Ludlow Stout, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Martin Stout, to Mr. Lawrence Copley Thaw, son of Mr. Edward Thaw. Thompson-Quinn—On April 22, in the Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church, Miss Dorothy Thompson, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry S. Thompson, to Mr. Martin J. Quinn, junior. CHICAGO Lawrence-Adams—On May 3, in St. James’s Episcopal Church, Miss Janet Law- rence, daughter of Mrs. Wilhelm L. Baum, to Mr. Robert McCormick Adams, son of Mr. Robert McCormick Adams, of St, Louis, Missouri. PHILADELPHIA Berry-Clement—On April 21, in Christ Church, Georgetown, Washington, D. C., Miss Donna Otey Berry, daughter of Mrs. Buckner Magill Randolph, of Washington, D. C., and the late Philip Taylor Berry, to Mr. Theron Ball Clement. Brewster-Gere—In June, Miss Grace Brewster, daughter of Mr. Frederick Carroll Brewster, to Mr. Rollin C. Gere, of Illinois. Field-Cross—On April 21, Miss Elizabeth Breckinridge Field, daughter of Commander W. Roy Mason Field, U. S. N., retired, and Mrs. Field, to Mr. Eben J. D. Cross, of Bal- timore, Maryland. Gill-Oliphant—In June, Miss Helen Mary Gill, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Edward Gill, of Trenton, New Jersey, to Mr. Alexander Coulter Oliphant, son of Mrs. A. C. Oliphant and the late General Oliphant. Glendinning-Cooke—On April 23, in St. Paul's Protestant Episcopal Church, Miss Mary Fisher Glendinning, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Glendinning, to Mr. Jay Cooke, second, son of Mr. and Mrs. Jay Cooke. Miller-Tunis—In June, Miss Elizabeth Clenson Miller, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Philippus W. Miller, to Mr. Richard Tunis. ST. LOUIS Edwards-Whittemore—On April 23, in the Westminster Presbyterian Church, Miss Mary Elizabeth Edwards, daughter of Mrs. George Lane Edwards, to Mr. Robert Black- well Whittemore, third. A BOOK OF GUIDANCE Its uses are manifold, its benefits beyond enumeration, its advice excellent, its dependability steadfast, tts humour irresistible—all these splendid qualities has that newest volume of social guidance— Vogue’s Book of Etiquette

Page 103

April 15

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0 I/ “we 3 Ee ep VP ewpemewvew"e For her who has attained wisdom in the exquisite art of the toilette ~Fashionette THE HAIR NET DISTINCTIVE Designed by Expert Coiffeurs Fashioned for Enduring Wear At all the “Best Shops PRA AR MII HOW HOW =r YY

VOGUE SEEN ON tH BTLAGE (Continued from page 70) Peter’s portrait of Antony has its beauty. Voice, movement, and glow of personality match at different points * the beauty of some curtain he has de- signed, some wall he has thrust up. But there is not enough of the great soldier, the great triumvir, the great Roman, and, therefore, not enough of the tragic lover. Here is the man who commits the greatest sin, the sin of for- swearing his own personality, the sin of giving up his part in the design of the world, the sin of forsaking mankind for woman. It does not matter whether his worldly ends are base or fine; it does not matter whether his love for Cleo- patra was sanctified by a high priest or unlicensed. Antony’s passion goes down the centuries as a base passion merely because it broke the course of his life as a man. Peter’s Antony fails because it is not a picture of a great man seized and rent by passion. The great- ness of Antony and the greatness of his disorder are lacking. Miss Cowl herself does admirably with one side of Cleopatra. The part has been played so seldom in the past half-century that there is no basis for comparison; but it is a very safe guess that no American actress has given so complete a picture of the lighter and shallower side of the queen. Miss Cowl catches every nuance of the childlike nature; what a Shavian Cleopatra she would be! Her shortcomings lie on the deeper side of the woman’s nature. She touches nothing that is very moving, very important, until she comes to her death. Then, though Miss Cowl is not great, she is undeniably fine. All in all, it is not so good a piece of work as her Juliet or her Melisande. In the other Shaksperian tragedy, she was able to remain Miss Cowl and still be an approximation of the woman Shakspere imagined. In “Pelleas and Melisande,” she transformed her- self into another person. In “Antony- and Cleopatra,” she remains too much Miss Cowl, and, when she impersonates, she does not impersonate the whole depth of the character. ‘“‘HELL-BENT FER HEAVEN” The eruption of the Kentucky mountains upon Broadway is the out- standing dramatic phenomenon of the past year. First, “Sun Up,” the vivid and badly built play of an unknown, which survived a year of transmigration from Greenwich Village up-town. Next, “The Shame Woman,” by the same playwright, Lula Vollmer, shoddy and worn in plot, but attractive enough in characterization to allow an economical cast to play it for some months on Broadway. Third, Percy MacKaye’s obstreperous comedy, “This Fine-Pretty World,” wrecked, perhaps, by too much vividness of phrase. And, now, Hatcher Hughes’s “Hell-Bent fer Heaven,” pro- duced for trial matinées and then moved up into the evening bill. All these plays may be taken seri- ously as works of art, for they are all honest reflections of the people of the mountains; they are all studies in character. There are excitement in them, wild incident, things that seem a little improbable; yet, they are far from melodrama. Not one of them is conspicuously well made or complete, but ail of them have the thing that the theatre demands—vivid life. “Hell-Bent fer Heaven” is the strang- est of them all, for it is excellent in many, many ways, and yet it harbours, as the chief character, the source of all the action, an absurdly overdrawn figure. This character is a washed-out, cowardly, meddling, and thoroughly evil young fellow who is nothing short of a religious maniac. The character is plausible. Just such a conscious coward would spend his time getting other people into trouble, lying, backbiting, starting up old feuds afresh. He would find a certain brand of Christianity particularly grateful to his nature, and he would get a message from God for any little piece of devilry he wanted t do. I say that such a character is plausible; but I also say that such a character is absurdly overdrawn. 1] mean by this that he is out of place in the plot of “Hell-Bent fer Heaven.’ A young man so obviously evil and lying and destructive never could hav: got enough credence to make all th: trouble that the author has him pro- vide. Some years before the play opens he woul.j have been beaten into goo behaviour, sent to the nearest asylum, thoroughly shunned, or even mor thoroughly shot. As a character, this man is alway: interesting; I think he is played wit! a little too much emphasis by John } Hamilton. The rest are almost as en- tertaining, and some are much better acted. Augustin Duncan is provided with a rich part in an old gaffer of ready wit, and he plays him quite perfectly. George Abbott and Glenn Anders are sometimes a little too emphatic, but they are skilful and amusing. Backed by an excellent cabin and a view of the Blue Ridge, designed by Alonzo Klaw and painted by Robert Bergman, these actors and their char- acters make a fresh and vivid picture of a kind of American life that still has vitality in it. It happens to be a life that no melodramatist has cheapened and vitiated within the memory of the present generation. Against the con- ventional picture presented by dramas of the larger cities, “Hell-Bent fer Heaven” and the plays of Miss Vollmer have a kind of theatric vigour which js not to be denied or resisted. EVA LE GALLIENNE’S ‘*HANNELE”’ Hauptmann is almost the only dramatist of real merit whose work has remained wholly alien to America. Shaw, Ibsen, Andreieff, Echegaray, Molnar, Brieux, Tolstoy, Tchekhofi, even Strindberg, have been more or less successfully presented to twentieth- century New York, either in trans- lation or in the original. Hauptmann’s best play, “The Weavers,” is the only one that has won any public acclaim. Of the rest, only “Hannele” is known to the theatre-going public, and very sketchily at that. Some fifteen years ago, Mrs. Fiske acted it bravely and briefly. Now, some one far more fitted by age and temperament to play the ecstatic little starveling has brought it forward at special matinées. This is Eva Le Gallienne, who did so finely by Molnar’s servant-girl heroine in “Liliom,” and who is now playing just as finely the Teutonic princess in his “The Swan.” Special matinées are by nature un- satisfactory. The resources of the management are almost always _in- adequate. The actors come too casu- ally to rehearsals. The director usually fails to put in his appearance, and the piece goes on with half the lines un- learned and the whole production look- ing foredoomed from the rise of the curtain. Miss Le Gallienne has altered this in certain regards. For one thing, her cast knew their lines; for another, her own determination and her own spiritual imagination carry a most difficult play on into something ap proaching adequate expression. Of Miss Le Gallienne’s own imper sonation, it is hard to say anything too (Continued on page 106)

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r is ard her ng, uld ity ind for hae ae! Teh Meee ECON RBI. a Cmte eee Wang 34: SLID EY MINE eee ory Ue A, A ( AN LZ ee te hy" 7 ur Beauty Real? Every man wants the woman he loves to be beautiful. Whether con- sciously or not, he wants that beauty to be real and natural. He glories in it, when he finds it. It is when woman makes the most of her natural loveliness, that she is most loved. To those who have learned the great truth—that naturalness is woman's greatest charm—Luxor Tomer Requisires are invaluable. Luxor Rovuce Parrairt, matching the color of the blood through the skin, brings Nature’s own inimitable coloring to the cheek. Luxor CompLexion Powner, clinging, yet feathery, light and transparent— containing no irritant lead or bismuth—gives that even velvety texture that is youth's own possession. To you, if you have not yet discovered Luxor, they offer their price- less boon of naturalness. Ask for them today—and for Luxor creams. oe specialties. Sold everywhere. Send for attractively illustrated booklet, “LUXOR YESTERDAY AND TODAY” (address Chicago Office) LUXOR Limited PERFUMERS P Paris Chicago New York

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Svip£ that there will also be the sheltering scarf and the kindly cape and, fortu- nately, the still smart pleats. At the dressmaker’s, Lydia concen- trates. She imagines herself in each gown as it appears and asks herself the following questions: ‘Is it smart? Are the general lines becoming?” If not, away with it. A pointless concoction of pleats, panels, and other lengthening lines designed for the stout figure is of no use to Lydia.

Her gown must suggest spring, 1924. Vertical lines are the best. Every horizontal line shortens and widens a little, and every vertical line lengthens and narrows a little. The neck-line is highly important. The V shape has always been the best for her, but the oval and oblong lines are very good. Lydia has found the much-decried bateau neck-line becoming in materials that harmonize with the skin. It should be cut very wide, and a long string or several strings of pearls should be worn to lengthen the neck and soften the severity of the line. Black and dark dresses are really better cut in a V neck-line. A square neck is utterly impossible. Incidentally, Lydia wears only long necklaces, as she has found that the very close one shortened her neck considerably. Sleeves, this season, are often short or very long and tight, neither of which are good for Lydia’s unfortunately fleshy arm. The first reveals all, and the second gives an unpleasing, stuffed effect. Happily, however, sleeves can usually be changed without spoiling the design of the gown. Lydia finds that the straight, moderately wide model, with a fairly large armhole, beloved of Vionnet and Chéruit, is the best. Any belts used she likes as incon- spicuous as possible, as the effect of a strong horizontal line in the middle of the figure is fata]. A thin cord of the material of the dress itself makes the least noticeable belts. Girdles of con- trasting colour cut the figure disas- trously. Lydia does not wear long skirts, but moderately short skirts with long lines obtained by panels, apron effects, and pleats. She avoids the sausage-like effect of a long, tight skirt over a full figure. The most difficult part of the body is from the armpit to the hip, and so her dresses frequently have a concealing move- ment, such as a panel, a cascade, or a mediaeval sleeve falling gracefully from the shoulder to hide bulging flesh. Truly, Mistress Lydia in no way resembles the familiar caricature of the weighty lady at the dressmaker’s, rapturously choosing for herself a slinking leopardess of a gown, because | its lines are so enchanting on the slim

model undulating before her ravished vision. No, she dissects with beautiful, but unerring, eye each dress as it ap- pears, deciding if it be friend or foe, and, when she makes an unusually | good friend of this kind, she lets nothing separate it from her. In fact, she orders it in several colours, following the smart European custom. THE CHOICE OF MATERIALS Materials should be dull like crépe and never shiny like satin. Lydia has found that a dress with bodice and skirt of different materials—even of the same colour—shortens the figure most unbeautifully. On looking through the February 1 Vogue, Lydia feels rather pleased, for so many of the new materials will suit her. Crépe de Chine, crépe romain, silk alpaca, kasha, flowered silks in medium patterns— nothing could be better. And then, lace always was her most successful material. Incidentally, she never owns VOGUE [ ee os ee te © (Continued from page 78) a taffeta dress, for she knows that this romantically smart material is not for her. A slender figure must be felt beneath its stiff folds. Colours? Black is a sure and safe way to be smart. All-white, which is popularly, but erroneously, sup- posed to increase the appearance of one’s size, is surprisingly good, and, of course, the modish browns and beiges are safe. The new smart plaids, which used to suit her so well, she regretfully, but firmly, decides against as being too conspicuous for her present state of disgrace. Besides, they will make her appear larger. A plaid bow on a hat, perhaps; she will try and see the effect. Lydia’s beautiful hair, which, of course, reached below her waist in the days when smart hair behaved in that way, is now clipped to shoulder length. This enables her to fasten it in a small knot at the nape of her neck and thus achieve the tiny head which has been and will continue to be such a smart note of the modern silhouette. In the front, it is very short and very neatly parted at one side. There are middle- aged women of very distinguished ap- pearance, blessed with swanlike necks, who look ultrasmart in the essentially youthful shingled “bob.” Lydia, how- ever, has wisely decided that the “bob” is not for her, because she has a thick neck which she wishes to conceal. She, therefore, goes no further toward the “bob” than the clipping. THE VANISHING AGE-LINE Even this clipping has caused much discussion and dissension, but she is tavished with it because, as she says, it makes her “look almost as young as she feels.” “The barrier which existed between the old and the young thirty years ago is melting fast,” is her phi- dosophy. “Young people are older— really the débutante of to-day is like a rather sweet, but unusually aban- doned, Ouida adventuress, and the old are younger than ever. Why, there are no elderly women! Age is a Victorian mode that will never be revived. I shall go on my way rejoicing in short skirts as long as my feet are youthful. This dress from Chanel’s that I am wearing would be perfect for my daughter of thirty-eight and ideal for my granddaughter of eighteen.” As for her hats—Lydia is always very particular to have the crown fit per- fectly, and she always chooses moderate- sized brims. One-sided trimmings are the best, for symmetrical trimmings, such as flowers placed on each side of the cloche, tend to shorten the sil- houette. The classic tricorne and the new Russian shape are both excellent. A wisp of lace will veil tired eyes charmingly. Her figure is her weak point, and, although she loves a wild frock, she never wears one unless it can be tamed by a few discreet touches. But her feet are quite a different matter, and she acts accordingly. In the daytime, she has variations of buckles and plain pumps, for she finds the smart one- strap and two-strap models unbecoming to her silhouette. At night, however, her feet are sandalled in the latest and most marvellous creations of Hellstern or Perugia. Scarfs are Lydia’s great joy of the season, for, behind the kindly folds of a scarf, her poor chin is as good as her youthful neighbour’s. She will doubt- less cling to them, even when they have passed out of the first fashion. Mean- while, they are a panacea for all her chin troubles, and she is ordering one for each and every costume. She par- ticularly adores the soft chiffon scarf (Continued on page 102) LE RRR Betta rtp ra ee F RA RAE ROH REG NAN ss, <n : we SK ——— awe Le FREER RR RRR RRR AAAS

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“I am very fond of the company of ladies. I like their beauty, I like their delicacy. I like their vivacity and I like their silence.” AMUEL JOHNSON was ascholar, but he was also aman. He was “fond of the company of ladies,” and among the qualities which he admired in women it is interesting that, first of all, he said, ‘I like their beauty.’’ The importance of personal loveliness in the success of life can- not be overemphasized. It is a profound truth that if you look your best, you are your best, physically, mentally, yes and spiritually. As a flower blooms in the sun, so do you bloom when you feel the warming glow of your friends’ admiration. And beauty is so easily coaxed into being, so easily kept! Inte/- ligent care of the health, that is all. Elizabeth Arden has studied this subject deeply, the making and keeping of women’s health and loveliness, and the treatments, given at her various Salons by carefully trained assistants, are as sound and scientific as they are delightful and refreshing. An hour spent in a soft lounging chair in one of Miss Arden’s charming treatment rooms is an hour of revelation! Whatever the condition of your skin, dry, underfed, or tired and sagging perhaps, tiny lines, sallowness—you are studied by an expert and given per- sonal treatment. And as the assistant cleanses and softens, lifts droop- ing muscles and pats in the delicious astringents, your look of fatigue begins to disappear, your face begins to glow and a glance in the mirror is telling you how you used to look! For it is a fact that Eliza- beth Arden’s treatments make the face look years and years younger. Then the body must not be neglected. The Elizabeth Arden Ex- ercises for Health and Beauty are the foundation of loveliness. For these scientific movements, created especially for women, put every part of the body in happy working order. Beauty is impossible with- out perfect health. Elizabeth Arden’s Exercises develop beautiful pro- portions, normalize the weight, and stimulate every bodily process which contributes to a clear healthy skin. Don’t wait but send im- mediately for the Beauty Records. ($12 for the complete set.) EVERY SKIN NEEDS THESE PREPARATIONS: Venetian Cleansing Cream. Soft, melting; cleanses deeply and gently; leaves the skin pure and soft. $1, $2, $3. Venetian Ardena Skin Tonic. Tones, firmsand whitens the skin; keeps it clear and radiant. 85c, $2, $3.75. Venetian Special Astringent. Braces and lifts sagging muscles; strengthens the contours. $2.25, $4. Venetian Velva Cream. Delicate nour- ishingcream; softensandrefinestheskin; keeps it smooth and velvety. $1, $2, $3. Venetian Pore Cream. Closes open pores, corrects their laxness, refines the coarsest skin. $1, $2.50 Arden Beauty Box. Superb travelling case of black cobra leather, containing 20 Venetian Preparations and other ac- cessories. $60. Venetian Waterproof Cream. A mar- velous finish for the neck and arms. Gives the skin a pearly lustre. For even- ing and sports. $3. Write for Elizabeth Arden’s attractive new booklets. They are sent on request — Postage paid on mail orders exceeding $10 The Arden Venetian Preparations and chic Babani Perfumes are on sale at the Elizabeth Arden Salons and also at 1000 smart shops all over the world ELIZABETH ARDEN 673-B FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK London: 25 Old Bond Street Paris : 2 rue de la Paix Boston.192BoylstonSt. SanFrancisco:233GrantAve. Detroit: 318 Book Bldg Atlantic City: Ritz-Carlton Hotel Washington: 1147 Connecticut Ave A GUIDE edged with ostrich frond trimming or encrusted with beautiful metal, fur, or velvet flowers, for evening wear. She knows that a train lengthens her lines, but there is something in their stateli- ness that ages her just a little. A trail- ing scarf made as a part of the dress is a very pretty solution to this problem. She “pungs” this idea at once. Her silver scarf is charming with her white hair and black dress. It is a gleaming note in her otherwise dove-like plumage. When no scarf is possible, she wears a narrow ribbon round her neck, tied in a tiny piquant bow in front. It is never black, but always in a pale tone in harmony with her skin and toilette. THE BECOMING TAILLEUR When she lunches at Pierre’s or Marguéry, only close scrutiny will re- | veal that she is neither so slim nor so young as the other women who flutter through the revolving doors, like so many blackbirds. She wears a tailored suit, but not the fitted O’Rossen model that is the uniform of the majority. Instead, knowing it is a better line for her, she has chosen a double-breasted, unfitted reefer model from the same maker. Both coat and skirt are slightly longer, and the roll collar is a little deeper than in the original model. She has broken all the tailors’ rules by adding a tiny cape set in at the shoulders, with flattering results. Her scarf is smartly folded stock-wise about her neck, concealing that chin. Lydia’s hat is a variation of the cloche and is held smartly up at one side with the newest pin. Her pretty feet are con- spicuously chic in glittering patent leather pumps. Her stockings are but a silken shadow. If her feet were not so pretty, she would have worn shoes and stockings to harmonize with the suit, to make them less noticeable. She wears grey, beige, or black suéde gloves, never white. The smartest women have not worn white gloves for some time, and, even if they were in the mode, Lydia would not wear them, as the flash of white is too noticeable for this cautiously dashing lady. Her perfectly hung skirt is slightly pleated at the sides to allow for movement. A salient point of chic occurs wherever the body emerges from the suit or dress that covers it, and Lydia is scrupulously careful that neck-line, cuffs, and skirt have an im- peccable finish. The camellia in her buttonhole is fresh, and, altogether, she is as immaculate and perfect as a pearl. “What is the secret of it?” one of Lydia’s friends asks her. “How can I, too, look like the beautiful, slim ladies in fashion-plates in spite of all my extra pounds?” “Ma ckeére,” Lydia replies, “I dress my good points, you see, and, above all, make others forget my bad ones. The smart older woman of to-day must look youthful without being ridiculous. That is the spirit of the age.” DESCRIPTIONS OF MODELS ON PAGE 79 The following paragraphs contain more detailed descriptions of the models shown on pages 78 and 79. (Continued from page 100) VOGU} CHI ( eS The grey silk lace dress, with lon, mediaeval sleeves of grey tulle, illy trated on page 78, is worn over a blag crépe slip. Both the dress and the gjj are cut with a deep oval neck-lix showing a flesh-pink underslip. Ty, drapery is held in place on the left si by a’silk lace scarf which is set into th, dress. Length is added to the silhouet by a streamer of tulle fastened at th, base of the scarf. At the upper left on page 79 is show a black and gréy crepe afternoon dreg in lengthened waistcoat style. The ling of this frock are especially pleasing an/ appropriate to the stout figure, and th long V neck-line is very becoming. Th: attached scarf is of black crépe line with grey. The groups of pleats in th skirt are held in at the waist-line by lacings. The black, white, and grey printe( crépe model in the centre at the top ¢ the page suggests summer days: Alf though the dress and scarf are of pat terned material—usually considered inappropriate for the woman who is 1 longer slender—, the long bands 4 black and grey georgette that edge the scarf and neck-line and continue dow the opening of the wrap-around skin give the desired effect of length an( slimness. Bands of material hold the fulness in at the waist-line on either side. The lines of the double-tiered coat cif wood-brown rep with long, straight sleeves are also excellent for the stout) woman. The under part is tied at the) left side under the upper part, which} hangs free. : The beige crépe de Chine afternoon} 7 dress at the lower left on the page ha half-inch box pleats from shoulder to! hem. Between the pleats are four plain 7 bands of crépe; the string belt passes under the one in the centre front and is) tied at the side. A group of pleats is let into the sleeve just above the elbow,| and a pleated cape hangs from the! shoulders in the back. I THE CAPE APPEARS OFTEN The lower centre figure is shown ina} coat and dress of black crépe satin,) the satin side of which is used to form stripes on the crépe side. These stripes run down the front, back, and sides of F the dress, up the side of the coat, and down the inside of its sleeves. The scar is really a collar and is tied in front. The dress underneath has a cape-back. The delightful informal evening frock is made of combined putty colour crépe de Chine and black Chantilly lace. The lines of the figure are con- siderably lengthened by the insertion of the lace in panels en each side from shoulder to hem. The lace cape should reach to the hip-line in the back. Editor’s Note—The next article of the “Guide to Chic’’ series will dis- cuss the problem of appropriate) dressing the tall, dark young girl who is a striking type and a sophis- dicated débutante

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lle, illus er a blag hd the silhouet, ed at th ) is showy oon. Cres The | ine asing an/ , and the ing. The spe line ts in the t-line by printed le top of ys: Ali of pat. nsicere( ho is no ands of dge the e dow id skirt th anih ad the either coat of traight > stout ? at theh which Toon | ze haste ler to plain = Dasses | und is § is let § lbow, & | the i April 15 (Our Angelus comes in the Hallet & Davis Piano at $1050 to $2875. In the Conway Piano, $685 to $885. Special models to order. Con- venient terms readily arranged. Your piano or player piano taken on exchange. enius plays your Pance Music Thee supreme artists of piano dance music will now play in your home. These are the geniuses of syncopation who set the rhythm of Broadway ak keep the world in step. The Angelus —the greatest attainment in the reproducing piano — repeats their playing. Not a shade of the marvelous tone or rhythm 1s lost, nor lessened the merest trifle. By a remarkable advancement, exclusive with the Angelus, the actual touch of the pianist is transferred from his studio piano to your reproducing Angelus—grand or upright. The famous concert pianists of the age also make recordings of their choicest renditions for the Angelus to repeat in your home: Godowsky, Bauer, Gabrilowitsch, Menth, Rubinstein, Bloomfield- Zeisler, Mero, Buhlig, Leginska, Lerner—a host of famed artists. Every Angelus studio offers you a private recital. Send for the near- estaddress. A brochure illustrating the Angelus styles will be sent you. Also, a catalogue of the exclusive, master-made Angelus recordings. HALLET & DAVIS PIANO CO., 661 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. Established 1839 Division of the Conway Musical Industries

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SSS © EEC i | SLU fl ht AWA» rao AM AW! ih Lute if

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jj N\ 4\\ \ \ ~ Ny) \ \ XS, \\W Ay yy Ny | S—_ \ WN —— Wh J yyy aa Af a QQ S . WAR | j 7 Z Z EE ——— YY WU FRZEZ2-—-STIWW AN cee | Incomparable Pall Mall! Men with a taste for life’s better things have gladly paid “a shilling in London—and a quarter here” for ten Pall Malls —and considered the purchase the best cigarette buy. But now Pall Mall is available in a special new size at 20 for 30oc! The same regal quality cigarette—slightly smaller in girth, but with the inimitable Pall Mall excellence left intact. For you who have forgotten the taste of superlative Turkish tobacco, here’s a real treat, at a purse-easy price! WEST OF THE ROCKIES 20 for35¢

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IGUY [! A | PMASIT EC APIECES 7 $e. ‘Glaeduits Rinesin,. Lie- _ ak Tee, Cinema nates. HOSE stalwart qualities of character st A ‘ers rai ° - P e i Slat allies chia. which distinguish the leader are not tion of the simple nobility , : of Abraham Lincoln. attained easily, nor by chance. Only through faithful adherence to lofty principles can they be acquired. A The Lincoln car is universally recognized today as worthy of its honored name because each step in designing it and in building it has been taken in strict conformity to the tenets of correct engineering, masterly work- manship and good taste. eres ||| The refinements for which it is notable have been developed from a basic structure funda- mentally sound. It stands four-square, a rec- ognized masterpiece. LINCOLN MOTOR COMPANY DIVISION OF FORD MOTOR COMPANY, DETROIT, MICH.

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MERICAN horizons have been so broadened by travel and intimate contacts with the cultures of other lands that exotic beauty is now given an eager welcome in count- less homes of taste and refinement. Until recently, it was not easy to find furniture uniting essential comfort with lines, proportions and color in entire harmony with cherished sou- venirs from overseas. This was true particularly of bedroom furnishings. But now Simmons beds are provided in such awide range of designs, either modern in spirit or reflecting the beauty of great Frenchand English SIMMONS Beds Mattresses - Springs: Built for Sleep and BEDROOM FURNITURE periods, that you can secure exactly what you need both in lines and in color to carry out almost any scheme of decoration you may desire. For that important third of life that you spend in bed, Simmons mat- tresses and springssupply restful and lasting comfort. Madein many types: sold by leading merchants every- where at the lowest prices they can be built of new, clean, safe materials. The Purple Label is the finest and most luxurious mattress made. No substitute equals any Simmons productatits price. Look forthe Sim- mons label—your sleep insurance. wa a tcc From its six- panel Chinese screen of painted silk, the color scheme of this effective chamber is de- rived. The orchid tints that bloom on the screen are repeated in the silk window hangings, lamp shade and cushions. The bed covers are of Shan- tung silk in pale primrose. They could be mer- cerized cotton poplinor taffeta. Carpet is Chinese blue. Slipper box in lacquer red and gold. Base of lamp is Chinese pottery. Valls are tinted soft gray-green. Beds, vanity, dressing bench, chair and table from a new suite of Simmons furni- ture, in jade green and other colors and in finishes reproducing walnut and mahogany. Beds are Design 1866. For nine other interesting _ schemes of decoration, write for “Restful Bed- rooms” to The Simmons Company, 1347 South Michigan Avenue, Chicago, or to Simmons Lim- ited,400 St. Ambroise Street, Montreal, Quebec. LOOK FOR THE SIMMONS LABEL

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Lf olishing the Siloer Spoon JOME people are all for beauty unadorned. They forget - that even silver spoons you're born with need polishing. "py Styles in beauty have changed, you see. There’s more = emphasis on good grooming nowadays. And so, across the dressing table, questions arise. About the choice of powder, the use of rouge. About differerit lightings, different costumes. All this has been covered delightfully in the little book, What Every Woman Does NOT Know, written by one of America’s sanest beauty authorities. This book is free to every purchaser of Bourjois MANON LESCAUT* Face Powder. You can’t fail to find it a handy addition to your dressing table. Most druggists sell MANON LESCAUT. When you buy it, ask for a copy of What Every Woman Does NOT Know. If your druggist does not have MANON LESCAUT, ask him to order it. If you are not within range of a dealer’s services, mail the coupon to us with $1.50 in check or money order. We will send you a full-size package of MANON LESCAUT and a copy of What Every Woman Does NOT Know. “Bourjois MANON LESCAUT CFace Po wder

\ : cased 1E —_— vena ee ee eee Seeae.. | 22s = 4 ‘a we of ee ee ee pTIITITIITS BOURJOIS ——_ ©) ASHES OF ROSES* ROUGE 4 ek OY <) pours No. 83 ge No. 83 A dark rouge, preferred by ‘women’ A ligh - of deep complexions and dark eyes ail igen age 75¢ features that are fair. 75c SE 2. Ae Oe a ee ew

; A. SABIONS & CO. Ine. PARIS 34th Sereet NEW YORK Wits tut gripes embod ¢i 1.50 in Money OrderO Stamps) Chéck 0 for which send me at once one full-size of MANON LESCAUT WhiteO NaturelleO RoseO RachelO Peaches*O Peaches-and-Cream*® 0 (Check and 1 free copy of What Every Wonax

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= High-Powered Reo Sixes Superb body buildin}, com- pleteness of fitments and price moderation are com- bined in the new 4-Door Brougham Reo, illustrated. It is mounted on the famous high-powered Reo six-cyl- inder chassis, with vital power units cradled in a double frame. The price is $2235 (at Lan- sing, plus tax), includin?, steel disc wheels, bumpers, trunk, electric clock, cigar lighter, Motometer. auto- matic windshield wiper, etc. Balloon tires are $100 extra. With Balloon Tires EMININE drivers favor Reo. Partly because of cleanly expressed 300d taste in body lines and fitments, and to an even greater degree on account of unusual ‘driving, safety and convenience. Significant of this fact is the Reo dual foot control,—a marked Reo feature. Two pedals perform the triple duty of operatin?, the clutch, service brake and emergency brake. Positive foot pressure permits split-second speed in the application of Reo’s preatly oversized brakes. Convenience is further accentuated by the elimination of the usual hand lever, by the close-to-hand location of the pear-shift lever, by remarkable ease of steerin?, wheel control, by the finger-tip position of switches, and by unusual front compartment roominess. REO MOTOR CAR COMPANY, LANSING, MICHIGAN

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le Ameecwol|N any art there is produced, once in : c( D}, a long while, a piece of superlative (a) ) excellence. QQ) Always limited in number, these works quickly become the priceless possessions of a few persons, enhancing in value from year to year, bringing to their owners an increasing pleasure compounded of the work itself and of the universal admiration which it excites. Among those who know and love fine watches it is believed that the Gruen Fiftieth Anniver- sary watch is such a work. A few of these watches will go to horological museums, here and abroad, to mark an epoch in the production of instruments of precision. A few will pass into the hands of private col- lectors, to take their place among historic watches. A few more will be available for appreciative individuals, who have the desire to own or to give the very acme of modern timepieces. Qe F FF fF OW the Gruen Fiftieth Anniversary Watch came to be is no less interesting than what it is. Back of it is that which has been back of every great work of art and science—a youth's dream and a life devoted without cease to its realization. Years ago young Fred Gruen was sent abroad by his father to learn the watchmaker’s craft in the horological institutes. In that atmosphere of fine watchmaking tradi- tions, there flamed into being an ideal—to bring to life again the old guild spirit that had made Gruen’s ancestors and those of the men around him the master craftsmen of their age—to give to America a modern Gruen Watch Makers Guild that would carry the “art and mystery of watch- making” to new achievements in a new land. Fe FF F HE result of this young watchmaker’s idea is now a part of the history of watchmaking, and is widely known. The production of the Gruen VeriThin—the first practical and accurate thin watch—changed the entire nation’s conception of what a man’s pocket timepiece should be. Turning his attention after this to the making of watches more beautiful, which the slender grace of the VeriThin made possible, Gruen rapidly made watches works of art as well as instruments of utility, and profoundly influenced the whole development in the enrichment of watches which we see today. + Ff fF fF ND now, tocommemoratetheGruen Guild’s fifty years of watchmaking history, and to stand out for all time as an expression of his ideals, Mr. Gruen has marshaled all the resources of the Gruen Guild to create the finest watch movement that money and skill can produce. Planned and produced under his personal direction over a period of three years, the Gruen the Prized “Possession of the° Few Fiftieth Anniversary Watch is announced as the achievement of that purpose. There are, Mr. Gruen believes, but very few men in all the world capable of the fine crafts- manship called for in finishing some of its parts. The movement, a triumph of precision, has plates entirely of solid gold, richly engraved in the old guild manner, and is jeweled with 23 rubies and diamonds. The Gruen Pentagon case, in solid white or green gold, as preferred, is a work of art in it- self, and was selected as the official case for the Anniversary Watch movement because of its scientifically correct shape. “It won't tip over in the pocket.” If desired the movement may be had in cases of other styles and shapes; or, at an additional cost, in platinum or with diamond decoration. The watch is boxed for presentation in an exquisite, complete jewelry case. The price, in solid gold case, Pentagon, or other styles, is $500.00. Only a very limited number of these watches have been made, and no more will ever be pro- duced. Mr. Gruen desires them to go solely into appreciative hands, and they will be shown only by appointment and reservation. Address Fred G. Gruen, President GRUEN WATCH MAKERS GUILD Time Hill, Cincinnati, Ohio, U.S. A. Engaged in the art of watch manufacturing since 1874

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Yes it is true, but do not despair for I can restore your youthful contour. Those drooping facial muscles, a sag under the chin and crépy, loose, wrinkled skin can be corrected by my method of bring- ing new life and blood into worn- Droop here Droop here ( out tissues. [eet HH P. Bd Come in for treatment or go at once to your favorite shop Lf your skin is loose and muscles flabby DOROTHY GRAY’S RUSSIAN AS- STRINGENT CREAM. Surprising Results! $3.00 If your face is oily DOROTHY GRAY’SRUS.- SIAN ASTRINGENT LO- TION. Takes the ugly shine away and tightens and lifts the contour. $3.00 Uf your face is thin DOROTHY GRAY’SSPE- CIAL SKIN FOOD fills out the hollows and makes 4s __under an angular face plump and vouthful, $1 and $1.75 Dorothy Gray’s hin Strap DOROTHY GRAY’S EX- TRA BLEACH OINT- MENT. Makes the skin shades lighter, and brings the natural color into the cheeks, Lifts and _ strengthens *he muscles on either side of the face as well Made of washable kid. $5.50 and ask for these preparations—and my book of instructions If you have lines around your eyes DOROTHY GRAY’S POUR LA PATTE D’OIE. This takes away circles and crow’s feet. $1.50 and $4.00 the chin. A thin face can be made plump, Write for My Book Edition V It Tells How: A too fat chin can be-reduced, Large pores and coarse skin can be made fine, Eyes can be made bright and the lines around them eradicated, A sallow skin can be made shades lighter, That droop under the chin can be removed, To increase or lose weight, Firm muscles indicate youth. Lorothy FACIAL AESTH T49 cfUth Avenue, a. aa (Cut off here) Dear Mi«s Gray— Will you write to me at once and tell me just what preparations you prescribe to cure the condition that I have checked. Name Tf you have a dry sensitive skin DOROTHY GRAY’S TIS- SUE CREAM. lines without fattening the face. Fills out $1 and $1.75 They can be yours! ETICS Atlantic City 1643 Boardwalk Uf you have a sallow, dry flabby skin $3.00 Simply put a check oppo- site the con- ditions for which you wish relief. Address__ Flabbiness and Re- faxed Muscles around the Chin and Neck. Sagging Face Mus- cles. Double Chin and Superfluous Flesh around the Neck. Thin Neck with prominent cords. First signs of slight droop under the chin A Dry and Harsh Skin LWUUOOC) A MASK blinds, roller shades of glazed chintz, and painted canvas and oilcloth shades are hung to shut out the noonday glare. The shadows made by the rays of sun- shine coming through the slats of Vene- tian blinds make patterns on the bare floors of the summer-dressed room quite as fantastic and changing as the fanciful shapes cast by the glowing embers of the dying winter firelight. The severity of the summer room, with its light curtains and its bare floors, has the same chic of line as the smart woman in a tailor-made suit. There is the kind of restraint about the room with slip-covered furniture and carpetless floors that characterizes the good. She makes the pitiful little suicide live with a vividness that comes from within. Her beauty and her in- telligence and her skill unite to make a touching and very fine creation. The company varies from poor to middling good. The direction of most of the low- | life material is quite inadequate; there is no sense of the evil and multifarious life of a poorhouse. In spite of a wooden performance by Basil Rathbone, who plays the Christ figure, and in spite of very little illusion in costuming or setting, the Christmas-card dream of the dying child takes on a certain spiritual life that should be its own. This life owes its source, I think, wholly to Miss Le Gallienne. ‘“‘THE MOON-FLOWER”’ No American playwright of any merit can be quite so annoying as Zoé Akins. Her talent for dialogue is rather extraordinary. She has wit, and she has incisiveness. She has, in fact, a thor- oughly accomplished talent. Yet, we must reckon against this skill and this distinction a naive fondness for the kind of grand life that Ouida and “The Duchess” once wallowed in. To be sure, Miss Akins is just artist enough to see that her world of kings and great ladies and magnificent demi-mondaines is a little absurd, and so she chaffs it now and then. But, in the main, Miss Akins presents a distressing picture of a talented Middle Westerner losing her head at Monte Carlo. For one act, “The Moon-Flower” seems about to present Miss Akins as frankly and honestly exploiting her penchant for the pseudo-great. The scene is a hotel on the Riviera. Enter a romantic young man of extraordinary courage and the mistress of a duke who has a habit of shooting the men she flirts with. The young man has bought a week of grandeur by squandering his patrimony. He wants to cap his dissi- pation with a night in the arms of the beautiful mistress of the Duke. He makes the mistake of offering her money. Because the Duke is indiscreet for the WINTER ROOM (Continued from page 63) SEEN ON THE (Continued from page 98) VOGU} woman who is correctly dressed fo walking, as compared with the womay who is more elaborately dressed for , late afternoon ride in her brougham, Both the summer and the winter room; have their moods, and each is charn:ing in its way, each necessary to our ow changing moods. Then, too, it is worth while covering familiar furniture and replacing familiar curtains with other for the summer months, if only for the pleasure of reincarnating the former atmosphere of the old room at the end of the season. To return to it is like meeting an old friend after a period of parting and being able to appreciate again a remembered charm. STAGE enough to admit that he intends to provide an heir for the state by being most temporarily reconciled to his long-deserted wife, his mistress flies out in a temper and decides to revenge herself on both men by acceding to the passion of the younger. She knows the Duke will be hurt, and she hopes he will shoot the young man. > do we. Or, at least, we look forward to some very thrilling and dangerous encounters. The whole thing will be trivial, of course, but brilliant in its way and thoroughly entertaining. Perhaps, it is the creator of the original play, from which “The Moon-Flower’ is taken—Lajos Biro, author of part of “The Czarina”—who steps in here and spoils the piece, or, perhaps, Miss Akins feels called upon to be serious-minded and significant. At. any rate, the second act makes an about-face and sets the woman and her new lover exploring their pasts in a neo-Shavian manner; they discover that one had a tinker for a father and the other a cobbler. The third act deserts Ouida and Shaw and goes in for a muddy lot of old-fashioned Pinerotic “flubdub’ about whether the woman shall leave the Duke to live in poverty with her sweetheart or give him up for his own good and her own comfort. Just what decides the matter, I haven’t the slightest idea, for everything is hope- lessly tangled up in words; but the lady returns to her Duke, and the boy seems undecided just what to do about it all. Elsie Ferguson, supplied with a red wig and an emotional voice, has a very good time of it flouncing in and out of the demi-mondaine. She is no more artificial or unreal than Miss Akins and a good deal more interesting. Frederic Worlock plays the Duke facilely enough. Edwin Nicander, as a comic baron, is decidedly comic, but not at all baronial. Gustave Rolland, alone, of the cast, gives a perfect per- formance; his part is a waiter. Sidney Blackmer, again cast as a romantic, is almost as far out of his depth as he was in “Scaramouche.”

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}G UR OM April 15 ETHEL—Eyelet embroidery on Corticelli Cash- mere Tremaine is edged with self-colored val lace, and embroidered with metal ribbon and silver but- tons down the front. The slip is Corticelli Crepe Eldora. Created by Jesse Woolf & Co., New York. EW Irene Castle creations for Spring! Everything Irene Castle touches is distinguished by her flawless taste and her subtle sense of color and rhythm. The new Spring Irene Castle Corticelli models seem imbued with the per- sonal charm of “the best-dressed woman in the world.” At an exclusive dealer’s in every important city you will find the three charming models illustrated here, and six others, that have just been released. Irene Castle has the rare gift of unerr- ing style-sense. Women of taste are IRENE CASTLE CORTICELLI FASHIONS al REGINA—Lace has come into its own again in Paris and this delightful frock of Corticelli Cashmere Tremaine has it not only for the collar but is covered all over with burnt cluny lace scallops. Created by Joseph A. Morris & Co., New York. overjoyed to be able to secure these exquisite costumes sponsored by America’s acknowledged style-leader. The same materials Irene Castle uses Realizing how much the present mode depends for effect on the material used, Irene Castle selected for the three models shown here the ever delightful Corticelli Silk. Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions are all made of the identical materials selected by Irene Castle for the original models. When you buy Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions you know that you are get- ting something not only correct in style, MOLLY-O—Coats that are very new have scarfs as their distinguishing mark. This one is of a new French material, lined throughout with Corticelli Crepe Eldora, as is its scarf. Created by Jacob Rapoport & Co., New York. but made of the same fine materials that you would use yourself. Corticelli Silks are carried by good department stores everywhere. You can buy by the yard the delightful sitks you find in these ready-to-wear garments. If you do not know who carries Irene Castle models nearest you, we will be glad to send you his name, on request. And our attractive new book- let will interest you—“Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions.” A coupon is attached for your con- venience—clip it and mail it to us today. The Corticelli Silk Company, Florence, Mass. THE CORTICELLI SILK COMPANY 108 Nonotuck St., Florence, Mass. Please send me the free booklets I have checked: CO New Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions CO The Correct Color in Hosiery for every Shoe and Occasion 0 Spring Season Secrets in Corticelli Silk ee

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eee S Sra. Agee Te et ag a ee ey a ae ee N - | eye longed for nature’s most perfect gem — the pearl. | rey 4 Txt) j . 4 17 S\ And now—La Tausca craftsmanship equals the art of 3 ge nature, for only nature’s purest pearl has the delicate "i t texture, the translucent light and the priceless tints of A La Tausca. 6) iS AND) is, i —? ere In Paris, in London — wherever fashion reigns — usa \a La Tausca is the first choice of women of culture and refinement. Povles des Indies qual ity of Sa Sausca Pearls a 4 ¥ FOL y

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lowers of Love (FLEURS D’ AMOUR) The name of a Fragrance — the fragrance of the dream flowers of Love —Youth, Beauty, Romance, Spring— A fragrance possible of creation only as the inspiration of genius and the inherited instinct of the artiste-parfumeur thru three generations of uninterrupted work— The most luxurious perfume in the world. Le JADE The Precious Perfume “Sweet as the breath of an Oriental Spring, whispering of the flowers of Buddha.” Growing more and more precious, as fashion- able approval of its new and alluring appeal increases its un- precedented demand. Fleurs d’ Amour and Le Jade are obtainable in all the most desirable toilet preparations. Extrait, Eau de Toilette, Savon, Poudre, Sachet, etc. ROGER & GALLET Parfumeurs — Paris 25 WEST 32nd STREET, NEW YORK BEST DEALERS EVERYWHERE “Fashion in Fragrance,” Roger & Gallet’s new guide to Parisian Toilette Specialties, mailed on request. Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. Reg. U.S. Pat. O *. applied for ©

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April 15 . 109 ted oa ee Fi a Being a closer student of beauty than most women—isn’'t it natural to con- sider an actress as a connoisseur of. beauty accessories—of powder puffs? = ave “fortunes The searching glare of the spotlight demands a skin of naturally flawless texture. The actress who would keep hers thus, despite late, weary hoursand the daily irritation of make- up, must have faith in her array of powder puffs. That is why in green room and boudoir; for pro- fessional as well as for daintier, more personal use — hundreds of stars prefer Gainsborough Powder Puffs. These puffs spread powder evenly and naturally. They are softer than the most sensitive skin. From the moment you begin to use one you will under- stand why—‘“Each Soft Caress adds Loveliness.” A Daintier Puff— Packed attractively in its sani- tary, dust-proof container — it comes to you untouched by human hands. Made of rich velvety velour— or soft lamb’s wool —in all sizes e to suit your needs. Prices 10c to 75c. At the Better Stores. THE WESTERN CO. Chicago , New York 9 Weco Products Co., Limited, Toronto z POWDER PUFF

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110 Haviland China 8 Illustration directly above i shows the design in actual size HE charming new pattern illustrated is only one of many to be found where Haviland China is sold. It isa happy combin- ation of conventional border with graceful forget-me-not motif in old gold and blues. Since 1837 our china has enjoyed an enviable reputation. In purchasing be sure to notice carefully the Trade Marks. ov lang France Unless these Trade Marks appear on each piece. you will not be getting the Genuine Haviland China Manufactured at Limoges, France OECCORATED BY and» “2 4 y : *") ——————— Haviland China may be found in a profusion of beautiful patterns at all first class China or Depart- ment Stores. Write for name of nearest dealer if you have any difficulty locating one. Haviland China Co. Inc. 11 East 36th Street, New York ENTERTAINING HE methods of entertaining for i the younger generation differ enormously between us and our English cousins, and it may be credited that an American at his first English party is a figure deserving of much sympathy. The music is the same, al- though it has usually taken about six months to cross the Atlantic, and the dancing is supposed to be of the same type. Here, all similarity ends. The ubiquitous dinner-jacket, main- stay of a young man’s evening attire in this country, is never in evidence in a London ballroom. A man struggles into a white tie, white waistcoat, and tailed coat, the latter of which is a very work of art as conceived by a London tailor. Every one, both men and women, wears gloves, and few people realize how beautiful a women’s hand and forearm can be till they are seen encased in a long white glove. AT AN ENGLISH DANCE At the door, one secures a minute bit of pasteboard with an _ infinitesimal pencil stub attached, with which to jot down the names of one’s dancing partners. After having greeted the hostess and “booked” as many dances as conscience or desire dictates with the members of one’s own party, it is time to scurry about to obtain others. Then, one is at liberty to dance. It is the medieval custom of the English to have their dances numbered and labelled to indicate what they are going to be; as, for example, upon being warned that number seven is a waltz, “Sweet Rosie O’Grady”, one may pre- fer a drink at the buffet. One dance is divided from another by short inter- missions. At the end and at the begin- ning of each one, the exits and entrances to the ballroom are always choked, the available sitting-out space in the brief minutes of intermission is always in- sufficient if one does sit out a dance, and one can only stay talking to a girl for a set period terminated by the beginning of the next. Let us take, for example, Captain Alastair Lendorough, M. C., D. S. O., who lost his left leg below the knee at Mons and now is one of the most assidu- ous dancing-men in London. He may be seen shouldering his way through the smother, as the fiddles strike up for the fifth dance, to the side of his partner, Lady Ursula Gretamberdill, whose name, the peerage book informs us, is pronounced“Grumble.” “Mine, I think,” our hero will remark with military as- surance. “Yes, Buffles,” says Lady Ursula. They then attempt to reach the ballroom. It may be only ten feet away, but the music will be at its first encore before they take a step. “Awful crush,” says Buffles. “Awful,” says Lady Ursula. “Ripping party,” says Bufiles. “Rather,” says Lady Ursula. They get round the room twice, and the dance is over. Then, they must find seats, unless, possibly, Lady Ursula wants a glass of lemonade. There are probably no seats to be had. The hostess is receiving at the head of the stairs directly in the way of the main flow of traffic. The stairs are crowded with new arrivals, ascending or descending on top of erstwhile dancers, who find it the only place where they may sit. Then, luckily for our hero, the music for the next dance begins. “Thanks most awfully, Buffles,” says Lady Ursula. “T enjoyed that one,” says Buffles. And the funny thing is that they really do. The advantages they claim for their system are: first, that a girl only dances with what men she pleases, as it is obviously easier to refuse a man when he comesand begs for a dance than VOGUE ENGLAND IN in the heat of “cutting in;” second, that a “duty dancer” can not get stuck; and, finally, as they will say to any who should be so misguided as to wish to sit out, that a person comes to a dance to dance and not to talk. This last would sound more convincing if only the girls, one and all, danced well. Modifications of the above system are slowly being introduced. The cards themselves are often omitted, and one’s memory is thereby put to a severe tax. The advantage of this is that the girl, without written evidence to the con- trary, feels much more at liberty to cut a dance with an unattractive partner, giving the facile excuse that she “could not remember whether it was seven or seventeen, and, as you did not come for seven. .. ” Throughout, however, one always asks the lady to dance with some formality, and “cutting in” is absolutely unknown. In the writer’s humble opinion, a combination of the two systems could be beneficially applied to our dances; that is, the first part of each dance might be danced without cutting in, leaving the encores open to that custom. After each full-length dance, one’s partner would then be returned to her stamping- ground and the man would be at liberty to leave her, as in England. Any mem- ber of a stag-line would often be glad,to undergo ten minutes with the daughter of an old family friend, an unattractive cousin, or a girl to whom he is socially indebted, but the possibility of being “stuck” an hour or so is nothing short of terrifying. PITFALLS TO BE AVOIDED For the stranger in London, there are many pitfalls at such parties. For example, a young American is intro- duced to a “charming girl I think you ought to know” by the hostess. The young American does not catch the name, but, having obtained the seven- teenth, to be danced three hours thence, he scribbles on his program, “Tall, awk- ward girl in yellow.” When it ap- proaches one o’clock and the seven- teenth dance, he has but a foggy recol- lection of her appearance and discovers that there are easily seventeen girls in the room who fit his description. The sixteenth dance is over, and he begins to rush hurriedly up and down stairs, peering into corners, disturbing tétes- a-tétes, getting more and more flustered. Possibly, he recalls with anguish the wonderful fellow who could always remember Mr. Addison Sims, of Seattle, and all about him; possibly, he finds his charmer; possibly, she does not want to be found; possibly, he addresses the wrong girl; probably, he has a nervous breakdown; probably, his partner has gone home. At any rate, his predica- ment is to be pitied. Another way of making a perfect fool of himself is for the American to talk to a titled dowager of unknown ante- cedents about the differences between England and America. He starts to explain everything of a local or national character that might not be understood only to discover that the lady he is ad- dressing was née Spinks and was brought up in Chicago thirty years ago. There is usually nothing to betray the fact that she was born on the far side of the Statue of Liberty, and many things can be said that are hard to explain afterward. It is perfectly astounding what an amount of more or less good American blood flows in the veins of the English peerage. It is very often the case that the lady was not a great heiress, and much that is written along such lines is but poetic or imaginative fiction. Of course, the knowledge of such marriages does not tend to make the English girls (Continued on page 116) Apt

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Bipril 15 Hospitality Dressed in Silver LEAMING linen, dimpled shoulders, jewels sparkling in soft flames of candles, half hidden flowers, solid silver —these graces are high lights of beauty that relieve the dull dailiness of life. To finer natures they are the telling points in the drama—or comedy, maybe—of living with one’s self, one’s family, one’s friends. Without them our play is Hamlet without even the ghost. Designs in Treasure Solid Silver—as in the William and Mary Pattern pictured on this page—are made for life’s high occasions, not merely for your own days, but for length of days through generations. Practical in that they are genuine; irreproachable in that they are works of art. At leading jewelers. Brochure on request ROGERS, LUNT & BOWLEN CO. Silversmiths \, Creators of Distinctive Tableware GREENFIELD NY MASSACHUSETTS Treasure Solid Silver) in the 4 a x and «Mary Style

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112 Where one is safe, Four others pay Don’t pay Pyorrhea’s price— Brush your teeth. with Forhan’s Every man and woman 1s in danger of Pyorrhea. According to reliable dental statistics, four per- sons out of every five past 40, and thousands younger, too, are victims of this disease. Are you willing to pay the penalty—lost teeth and shattered health? If not, don’t neglect your teeth. Visit your den- ‘ist regularly for tooth and gum inspection, and make Forhan’s For the Gums your dentifrice. It is most pleasant to the taste. Forhan’s For the Gums, if used in time and used consistenily, will help prevent Pyorrhea or check its course, keep the gums firm, the teeth white, the mouth healthy. There is only one tooth paste of proved efficacy in the treatment of Pyorrhea. It is the one that many thousands have found beneficial for years. For your own sake make sure that you get it. Ask for, and insist upon, Forhan’s For the Gums. At all druggists, 35c and 6oc in tubes orhans FOR THE GUMS More than a tooth paste—it checks Pyorrhea = Formula of RJ-Forhan DDS VW-_-_™ —_—— WHAT MYSELF NOT LEAST BEING THE PERSONAL REMINISCENCES OF “x” PUBLISHED BY HOLT EEMINGLY, all the clever things said by clever people in the last fifty years are included in these memoirs. The author chooses to move mysteri- ously (as “X”) to perform his wonders, a method which adds a certain piquancy to the charm of his revelations about people and things of importance. How even the voluble “X” collected so many mirth-provoking legends, savoury bits of gossip, and sparkling bon mots from the lips of wit and genius is difficult to imagine. Few books have possessed such anecdotal power and such adelicate, but glorious, flavour of humour. A de- scription of the fighting in Salonica tells humorously of the amazing interchange of messages between the English and the Bulgarians. “In a tight corner where the tide of battle fluctuated, some wagons were occupied alternately day and nigiit by the contending forces. One morning our men found a notice there, ‘You might leave the place a bit tidier!’ . an hour was devoted to making every- thing spick and span. The next message was, ‘Please give us a few books to read, as we find it very dull waiting here,’ and some magazines were provided. Then: “We regret that we have only Bulgarian books, so we can not reciprocate your courtesy. But we have run short of coffee and should be grateful if you could spare some as well as jam.” The author tells how the forces permitted each other to play football between the lines without a shot being fired and how one message contained a kindly warning: “Don’t remain a single hour, for we are going to make a raid.” A rather novel view of the terrible Bulgars! “X’s” personal recollections of Oscar Wilde, Whistler, Blunt, Bottomley, and count- less others are of incalculable value and interest. VINDICATION by STEPHEN MCKENNA PUBLISHED BY LITTLE, BROWN A keen study of English social life after the War and of a girl who made a courageous fight for power and won, or lost, according to the personal predilec- tion of the reader. This story of Gloria Britton and her rise from poverty to wealth and acertain type of success is more truly a searching analysis of English character and Eng- lish ideals than a piece of fiction. The plot construction is shaky enough in spots, but the people are alarmingly realistic. Gloria is handicapped in her struggle for material gain by that un- fortunate combination—good breeding and sordid ambition. Thus, hard and relentless to a degree, she also possesses a fine delicacy and certain lovable qual- ities of femininity which cause her to for- get that Norman Cartwright, though a nobleman, is an impoverished one and to accept his proposal of marriage in a burst of impractical sentiment. Freddie Kendaile, whose wealth is fabulous, even though his family can not hope to rival the indigenous house of Cartwright in the matter of antiquity, has pursued Gloria for years. Freddie is clever, handsome, and gracious; Norman is dull, prim, and proper; and just which of the two Gloria loves. never becomes clear. In fact, the affections of the four princi- pal characters, Gloria, Norman, Freddie, and Margery, who afterwards becomes Norman’s wife, are in such a muddled state from this point on that one must revert to the facts and leave theorizing to the reader. Feeling neglected, Gloria spends a week-end at Melby, the Ken- fie. Ge we 4 VOGUE R E A D daile estate, which lies only a stone’s throw from Newbridge Park, the home of four centuries of Cartwrights. Ap- parently as indifferent to Freddie as ever, Gloria takes him for her lover, presumably for the age-old reason that she is lonely. She marries him by way of revenge, and, though she constant! y reminds him that she hates him, her only indication of animus is a super- erogatory devotion to the details of his household, his children, and his career, The story now switches to Norman and Margery, who marry and live in blissful unity at Newbridge Park until Norman goes away on a month’s busi- ness trip and Margery succumbs to the irresistible Freddie. This rather stagger- ing complication of affections, brouglit about by Norman’s neglect and Gloria's coldness, dies down as suddenly as it blazed into existence, and, in the end, the two couples go their separate ways, apparently content. The social life of a rural English county, with its small jealousies, petty gossip, and bitter rivalry, is described with rare cleverness and humour in this novel, and such character portrayals as Arthur Britton, Dot St. John, and Lady Cartwright, Norman’s mother, stand out very creditably from the two or three threadbare types whom we al- ways expect to meet in English novels and who sorrehow never got into Vin- dication at all. JENNIFER LORN-: A SEDATE EXTRAVAGANZA by ELINOR WYLIE PUBLISHED BY DORAN This book is the inspired leap of a satiric imagination. Jennifer Lorn is the primmest piece of absurdity ever penned. With con- summate artistry, Miss Wylie has fol- lowed her fancy through an intricate network of beautiful improbabilities, colouring them extravagantly with that rich imagery which is so entirely thepro- perty of this particular poet. The style in which the story is couched has the easy, flowing texture of clear water or soft music; it is the impassioned song of a sentimentalist, the light whimsy of a cynic, the divinely subtle creation of an artist, all gathered together into one pure chord of rapturous harmony. As- suredly, yes! there is a plot, charmingly ridiculous as it is; and one must not neglect to mention the quaint old bind- ing, yellowed leaves, and eighteenth- century woodcuts which lend such suave sedateness to this extravaganza. But,as always, Miss Wylie has created a style that will be remembered for its exotic beauty, and, beside which, such details as theme and character are merely appurtenant. DIFFERENT GODS by VIOLET QUIRK PUBLISHED BY HENRY HOLT The story of a love that went through changes without change. Miss Quirk has done a daring thing because she has written a true story exactly as she wanted to write it, with the utmost naturalness. She attacks the forbidden without growing maudlin about it or leaving a morbid impression on the mind of the reader. She tells the complicated truth about youth and adolescence, quite simply and unaffect- edly. That is the utmost that a novel can do. One may point to some of the masters of literature and say less of them. The plot is not worthy of the book; it is the weak point. The “insuperable obstacle” between Sheila and Philip, who love each other, could so easily have (Continued on page 114)

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N- L Vi ——— CANVAS VV POV VV SAVY PAV OAV VY POV PAV AVS VV ?, \/ 7, *, *, 2. *, 2, ° ° . TEU TTT TTT AYP fiz EUEUSULOEUEGEHORRURERUGROGREEGLURCGUEUOCERODERECUUAUEEOREGUODGRLCOUREGHERREGUGUSEOAEARUOAEGETOAUSLADAEDTOARATAADAEAGEADADDDIONTIN __I FY, \Y PSV RLV (RR PNG NRG NGG NG NG NID RG RGD RG NG NING NG NGENGNI DTT TTT - FLORENTINE MODEL FINE PIANO MAKING AS A TRADITIONAL ART HE making of fine pianos is a tradition with the. House of Sohmer. The name Sohmer on a piano is not a mere symbol or designation. It is the family name of a group of individuals who by inheritance, tradition, experience and environment build pianos that acknowledge no cri- terion but perfection. Each Sohmer Piano is a masterpiece in itself —a complete entity individually designed and treated to give forth the Sohmer tone in all its warmth, fullness and color. Encased in various period designs these superb instruments take on the added characteristics of fine furniture giving a new and-hitherto unrealized attrac- tiveness to the piano as a decorative piece in the home furnishings. The blending of a fine piano with fine furniture is the crowning achievement of the Sohmer family — the fruition of more than fifty years of building for those who think in terms of per- fection. S VAG ds a \ a] ae Le LUT TTT TT AV AVRAUT AUT AURTAURTAURTAURVA RASA LEV ALEU AEA RT ALTA LUT TTT TTT TTT TTT TTT LAV AV ARTAN NENG LGN NINE NG NENG NG NG NG NENG GENIN LUT TTT . Sohmer Pianos are made in various styles and sizes of Grands, Uprights, Players and Reproducing Players, all of one quality. Uprights from $700 and upward. Grands $1250 and upward. Period models in Queen Anne, Italian Renaissance und Jacobean. Monthly terms of payment if desired. Illustrated Brochure mailed on request SOHMER & CO., 31°WEST 57th STREET, NEW YORK Established 1872 > - - ad LUAEERGUESUGEGOTOUGUCGUUUHDEORROGGQEDENEOGUGHUGHEGHUQUECQUQUULOQUQGDORGUDEGURGRRUROUQUUDONOLOR0GRGCOH00U00RH0GROUUHGGUGUHUGU0G0G00G0R0000000000RCGUIORRCRRECEROTIEEEE - a >) CINE ING INE INE INE ING INE INE INE LE LE LE LE PELE LE LNE LOE GE LE LE IVEPELE IE LER me, TAAL TAMVAYH 7 f AVA NRT AST ANETA UT ART ART AR ARV AE AEA EAU AI ARV ALE ARTA wg A io AUUUUERUUUELPREDEOUEGROUUOUOGHOEGUGUEDRGUROGLEORNOUUEROUGUDGHOUDERUGUUGUEOUUOUUOINGRONEGHOUAUGHEGHOGHSUSSRSNODDUEIT CY

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. JOHNSTOWN, VOGUE PATTERN SERVICE room nearest you; or they may be purchased at any of the shops listed below, where Precutncare may be ordered by mail from New York, or from the pattern show- books of colour sketches and lengths of the season's favoured materials are also exhibited. Remittances should be made out to the store or office from which you order. Sizes: Patterns are cut in sizes 34 to 42 in. bust measure, 24 to 32 in. waist measure, and 37 to 45in. hip measure, unless otherwise specified; misses’ patterns, 14 to 20 years; children’s patterns, I to 12 years. When ordering patterns by mail, please state your size. Prices of patterns in this issue are: Nos,7402 to 7437 inclusive, 6Scents; 7614to 7657 and 7065 to 7669 inclusive, 65 cents; 7658 to 7664 inclusive, 40 cents; 7237 and 7375, $1.00. Patterns May Be Purchased From: ABERDEEN, S. D.: The Olwin-Angell Company AKRON, O.: The A. Polsky Co. ATLANTA, GA.: Chamberlin, John- son, DuBose Company ATLANTIC CITY, N. J.: M. E. Blatt Co., the Department Store of Atlantic City BALTIMORE, MD.: Hutzler Brothers Company, or O'Neill and Company nc. BATH, ENGLAND: Jolly’s ner. heenrdh IRELAND: Robinson & Cleaver, Ltd., gg epee Ptce BINGHAMTO N. ¥.: Sisson Bros. Weldon coos BLOOMINGTON. ILL.: ingston & Co BOSTON, MASS.: R. H. Stearns Com- pany, or Jordan Marsh Company BRIDGEPORT. CONN.: The D. M. Read Company BRISTOL ENGLAND: Jolly’s ROOKLY N, N. Y¥Y.: Abraham & Straus BUFFALO, N. Y.: Flint & Kent CANTON, 0O.: The Klein- Heffelman, Zollars Company CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA: The Denecke Company 2 CHARLESTON, W. VA.: eT E CHAR OTTE, N C.: J. B. Ivey & end ny CHICAGO, ILL.: Carson, & Company CINCINNATI, O: H. & S. Company CLEVELAND, O. Halle Bros. COLUMBUS, QO.: The F. & R. Lazarus & Company DALLAS, TEXAS: Company DA necbehgy , O.: The Rike-Kumler Com- DENVER, COLO.: The Joslin Dry Goods Company, or The Denver Dry Goods Company DES MOINES, IOWA: Company DETROIT, MICH.: The J. L. Hudson Company z DULUTH, MINN.: Silberstein & Bondy Company EL PASO, TEXAS: Popular Dry Goods Company EVANSTON, ILL.: Square : EVANSVILLE, IND.: S. G. Evans Dry Goods Co : FRANKFORT, KY.: W. S. Farmer & GALESBURG, ILL.: The O. T. Johnson Compan GRAND "RAPIDS, MICH.: Spring Dry Goods Company GREA FALLS, NT.: Dry Goods ngmeeny HACKENSA — Goods Com HOUSTON. tTEXAS: Foley Dry Goods Company | HUTCHINSON, KEAN. : Wrigit Dry Good s Company — IND. : L. S. Ayres & Com JACKSONVILLE, FLA. : Cohen Brothers PA.: George K. Kline KALAMAZOO, MICH. : Gilmore Bros. ee CITY, a John Taylor y Goods Com KNOXVILLE, TENN: Miller’s LAKE CHARLES, LA.: The Muller Co., Ltd., 625 Ryan Street LANCASTER. PA.: The Donovan Co. LANSING, MICH.: J. W. Knapp Co. LEICESTER, ENGLAND: Morgan LINCOLN, NEBR.: Miller & Paine LITTLE ROCK, ARK.: The Gus Blass Company gy ENGLAND: Bon Marche Compan LONDON, ENGLAND: Condé Nast & Co., Ltd., Aldwych House, Aldwych London, W. C. 2, or James Schoolbred & Co., Ltd., Tottenham House, Tot- tenham Court Road Mayer Liv- Coyle and Pirie, Scott Pogue Titche-Goettinger Harris-Emery Lord's ,Fountain Friedman- The Paris J.: Gordon Dry Brothers The Pegues- LOS ANGELES, CAL.: J. W. Robinson Company LYNCHBURG, VA.: Inc. MEMPHIS, TENN.: Mercantile Company MIAMI, FLA.: Burdine & Quarterman MIDDLETOWN, N. Y.: The Amie Norris Company, 3 James Street MILWAUKEE, WIS.: Bertha Ehlers, The Specialty Shop, 106 Wisconsin St. MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.: The Dayton Company MONTREAL, CANADA: Henry Mor- gan & Company, Limited NEWARK, N. J.: L. Bamberger & Co. NEW ORLEANS, LA.: D. H. Holmes Company, Ltd NEW YORK CITY: B. Altman & Co. Awa Avenue _and 34th Street, or Vogue Pattern Room, 19 West 44th St. NORFOLK, VA,: Smith & Welton, Inc. NO RWICH, ENGLAND: Chamberlin’s OKLAHOMA vg BL OKLA.,: The Kerr Dry Goods C OMAHA, NEBR.: Belden and Company PADUCAH, KY.: The E. Guthrie Co. PEORIA, ILL.: Block and Kuhl Com- pany PETERSBURG, VA.: & Company PHILADELPHIA, PA.: maker PITTSBURGH, PA.: Joseph Horne Co., or Kaufmann’s PORTLAND, ORE.: Charles F. Berg, 309-11 Morrison Street PROVIDENCE, R. I.: Gladding Dry Goods Company RICHMOND, VA.: Inc. ROCHESTER, N. Y.: McCurdy and Company, Inc. ROCKFORD, ILL.: D. J. Company SACRAMENTO, CAL.: Lubin and Company SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH: Keith- O'Brien Company SAN ANTONIO, TEX.: Wolff & Marx Company > SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.: The White House, Raphael Weill & Company —," PA.: Scranton Dry Goods om SE ATTLE, WASH.: The MacDougall & Southwick Company SHEFFIELD, ENGLAND: H. E. Closs & Co., Ltd., 37 Fargate SHREVEPORT, LA.: Zodiag’s, Inc. SIOUX CITY, IOWA: Pelletier’s SOUTH BEND, IND.: The Ellsworth Store ST. JOSEPH, MO.: The Townsend, Wyatt, and Wall Dry Goods Co. ST. LOUIS, MO.: Stix, Baer & Fuller Dry Goods Company ST. PAUL, MINN.: Mannheimer Bros. STAUNT ON, VA.: Charles Holt, Inc. STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN: Albert’ Bon- nier SYRACUSE, N. Y.: Dey Brothers and Company TACOMA. WASH.: Rhodes Brothers TOLEDO, O.: La Salle & Koch Co. TOPEKA, KANSAS: The Crosby Bros. Company TORONTO, CANADA.: The Robert Simpson Company, Lt TULSA, OKLA.: The Hunt Company ares D. C.: The Wells Shop, oF St., N. W. Room 20 04 WATERBURY, CONN.: The Miller and Peck Company WHEELING, W. VA.: Stone & Thomas WILMINGTON, DEL.: Schwartz Bros., Compa WORCESTER, MASS.: Slocum’s Silk Store, 418 Main Street YORK, PA.: Chas. H. Baer Company YOUNGSTOWN, O.: The G. M. McKelvey Company D. Moses & Co., The Bry-Block "iciesenn: A. Rosenstock John Wana- Thalhimer Bros., Stewart & Weinstock- Complete Selection: A complete selection of all recent pattern models is shown in the Vogue Pattern Book. Published six times a year. VOGUE PATTERN BOOK Jan.1 . Mar.1 . Mayl Spring Issue . Early Summer Seowe Summer Issue . At All Stores and News-stands . Ordered by Mail Fall Issue . Early Winter Issue . Winter Issue .

._35 Cents 40 Cents

WHAT (i 2 Seo VOGUE R EA D (Continued from page 112) been avoided in the first place. He marries a girl, who seems to be dying equally of consumption and of love for him, and, to the disappointment of every one, she gets well. There is a trite and happy ending, too. But the author has drawn on a keenly observant mind for the more significant parts of this story, has given expression to casual bits that leap out at one and hurt because they are so true. And the style, all the way through, is so easy and pleasant and -conversational that the reader sinks immediately into a delighted state of receptiveness, deriving pleasure and entertainment without effort. THE MAN WHO WAS GOOD by LEONARD MERRICK PUBLISHED BY DUTTON’ The story of a man who was good and a man who wasn’t. Although, in this novel, Mr. Merrick does not quite attain to the finished technique of Conrad, he achieves a stimulating clash of personalities. Mary Brettan meets, in her life, two men, a good one and a bad,or at least worthless, one, and she loves the worthless one. Even in the last hour of her life, she loves him. It is a poignant bit out of life, this story. SIR JOHN DERING by JEFFERY FARNOL PUBLISHED BY LITTLE, BROWN In Jeffery Farnol’s pleasant company, we once more leave up-to-date prob- lems and take refuge in the past. This is the sort of pretty romance that develops out of a long and bitter feud; Mr. Farnol is rather good at this sort of thing. Sir John Dering, gentleman of old England, kills—by a sort of gal- lant accident—his friend, Charles Trem- aine, in a duel. Lady Herminia Barras- daile, Tremaine’s sweetheart, swears eternal vengeance, which she,thereafter, takes in a mean and most underhanded way, blackening Dering’s reputation whenever the opportunity presents it- self, haunting him like some ghost of ill omen. Finally, Sir Dering resolves on a unique way of silencing the lady and accomplishes his end in that caveman fashion peculiar to Mr. Farnol’s heroes and, in every case, eminently success- ful, for his heroines seem to require a strong hand, being always inordinately self-willed. This is a long-winded tale, dressed in extravagant, nice-sounding words and phrases, and faintly remin- iscent of -Dicken’s more loquacious moods. LITTLE CITIES OF ITALY by ANDRE MAUREL Translated by HELEN GERARD PUBLISHED BY PUTNAM In which the little cities of Italy flourish into sudden significance. Some few of our many travel writers have the faculty of recreating on paper the spirit of a city or a country, but, for the most part, the results of such a labour are ebullient with false enthu- siasms or rather dry. Among the minor- ity, then, stands André Maurel, with his Little Cities of Italy and other works of its kind. He has eternalized Italy, not less. by the eager leap of his inflamed imagination than by the grace of his style. This book is somewhat like a person who goes upon a vacation, paus- ing to survey and recount as he moves from town to town, sometimes casual, sometimes querulous, sometimes joy- fully detailed, but never tiresome. There are altogether too many travel books—but they are not of this order. ADVENTURES IN JOURNALISM by SIR PHILIP GIBBS PUBLISHED BY HARPER A romance of newspaper life. There is more material for fiction ix the life of a newspaper man, more in- spiration for the imagination, more ex- citement and scope for action and quic < thinking, than in any other career, :: the man himself be of a sort to brin z the right wit and spirit to his tasks. S:- Philip Gibbs knows the business insid out and has collected in his recent boo: on journalism every bit of beauty ani adventure that came his way. He take. us from one end of the world to the othe: he takes us all the way through th: experiences of a newspaper reporter i: the War, he gives us the atmosphere 0 Fleet Street and the intimate acquain tance of notables ranging from anarchist - to royalty. A life crowded with uniqu: incidents and clarified by a wise an worthy philosophy is here reproduce in_a most fascinating manner. RACUNDRA’S FIRST CRUISE by ARTHUR RANSOME PUBLISHED BY HUEBSCH In his thirty-foot ketch, the Racundra, Arthur Ransome cruises from Riga to Revel and from Revel to Helsingfors, discovering curious little islands, mak- ing the acquaintance of all manner o: queer people and places. He finds an element of human interest in everything, from the Island of Moon, where the women still go clad in sixteenth-century costumes, to the terrible stories of ship- wreck and disaster told to him by the Russian captain who had spent three years on a tramp steamer aground oti the Island of Worms, waiting for a tide high enough to rescue him. THE BEST MOVING PICTURES OF 1922-1923 by ROBERT E, SHERWOOD PUBLISHED BY SMALL, MAYNARD An anthology of the better motion- pictures of the year.’ This volume is interesting chiefly for its novelty. All picture-goers may not agree with Mr. Sherwood’s choice of the best screen productions of the past year; but the stories are critically out- lined and the judgment of certain prominent actors and of their réles is sound and penetrating. In the “Year- book of the American Screen” (included in the volume), there are many bits of information; that of most general interest to a ‘‘movie-mad’”’ public is the chapter on “The Censorship Menace,” which lists the widely varied standards of motion-picture ethics as outlined by six states. THE CHEERFUL GIVER by SAMUEL MCCHORD CROTHERS PUBLISHED BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN A clever little book of brief essays on a wide selection of subjects, all matters of general interest. Mr. Crothers possesses a graceful style and a refreshingly humorous point of view. THE TAPESTRY OF LIFE by RAYMOND BLATHWAYT PUBLISHED BY DUTTON An autobiographical narrative crowd- ed with events gleaned from an active and much-travelled career. Mr. Blath- wayt has lived near to the core of the important events of the day, has met and mingled with the literary and (Continued on page 116)

A

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April 15 ve. © WH Ad, PLAN ia N iG ( >) % Ze 4 f) my noble patrons SONEN™ The SPIRIT of LUYNA SA ipner odors known to Americans ACH of the exquisite Parfums Luyna expresses the true Chanson, d’Eté Pe are: spirit of the fashionable Parisienne, the delicate breath peer a i" de Faucigny-Lucinge of a charming personality —individual—enchanting For vy ved Ardente ‘ur-are-daunt) Pri @ Troubetzkoy inti i occas ine sa example, Fleur Ardente, warm, scintillating and untamed, Passion Flower Cozatesse de Vaucelles fairly breathes that sophisticated aura without which no Maya | my-ab] ae ee | woman is gloriously fascinating. nite seg Seven Entrancing era “Ges EXTRAITS + EAUX DETOILETTE + POUDRES + SAVONS Flewer Gor nearly a NCS) \ cAmerican Representative: THOS. CEEMING &> (o., New York he Perfumes

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116 Blue Line Chiffon Hose is beautifully sheer and clear in texture. The wearing quality of each pair is assured. A new process of treating the silk threads strengthens them toanamazing degree andhelps to prevent runs. Blue Line Hose in heavier weights as well as the new chiffon mentioned above is featured by the following: oS Abraham & Straus,Inc. Brooklyn, N. Y. L. S. Ayres & Co. Indianapolis, Ind. L. Bamberger & Co. Newark, N. J. Bullock’s Los Angeles, Cal. Daniels & Fisher StoresCo. Denver,Coto. The Dayton Company Minneapolis, Minn. The Famous-Barr Co. St. Louis, Mo. William Filene’s Sons Co. Boston, Mass. Hess Bros. Allentown, Pa. Geo. Innes Dry Goods Co. Wichita, Kan. Lasalle & Koch Co. Toledo, Ohio F. & R. Lazarus Co. Columbus, Ohio T. S. Martin Co. Sioux City, Iowa National Hosiery StoresCo. New York.N.Y. Edward M. Reynolds Omaha, Neb. The Rike Kumler Company, Dayton, Ohio J. Samuels & Bro. Providence, R. I. Wm. Taylor Son & Co. Cleveland, Ohio Weinstock, Lubin & Co. Sacramento, Cal. Younker Bros. Inc. Des Moines, Iowa ° ° os ENTERTAINING VOGUE IN ENGLAND (Continued from page 110) especially enthusiastic about their sisters across the Atlantic. For, with “Two million girls too many And two million men too few,” as a popular song has it, the English girl does not welcome outside competi- tion. Her numerical superiority, how- ever, is something of a blessing, for she WHAT foot foremost—, fie. ie is eager to give any male visitor a fair chance to demonstrate the sort of person he is. If he can pass this first test— and, indeed, the perfection of her manner and breeding is usually such as to make it doubly easy for him to put his best her hospitality and kindness pass belief. To this character- istic, the author gladly attests. DENNING D. MILLER na 2 A D (Continued from page 114) artistic figures of many countries, and has founded a story that is well worthy of the telling. NICOLAS POUSSIN by ESTHER SUTRO PUBLISHED BY THE MEDICI SOCIETY A simple study of the man and, in a lesser degree, of his genius. Mrs. Sutro has written a quiet, con- templative little work, not a searching analysis, but an interesting narrative. In- the seventeenth century, the artist painted for some wealthy orroyalpatron, and the fires of his genius were subject to this person’s capricious and unin- telligent whims. Poussin, caught in this wise in a trap of court intrigue and jealousy, surrounded by the diversions of the weak and the temptations offered him by the ignorance of his judges, went quietly forward through opposition and enmity to the high calm of attain- ment. He was so great a man that the study of his character to-day, after three centuries, is a significant lesson. Genius has always an ignorant and capricious patron—the public—, and the modern aspirant to fame might profit by the example of Poussin, who soared above, but never knuckled down. FORTY YEARS IN MY BOOKSHOP by WALTER T. SPENCER PUBLISHED BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN In the ghost-crowded aisles of an old bookshop, we meet all the famous old characters of fiction. And through the personal reminiscences of the author, we approach such writers of the past as Trollope, Greenaway, Dobson, Thack- eray, Dickens, Stevenson, on a footing of actual intimacy, while imaginative pictures of scarcely less interest are drawn of the older authors and poets of a bygone day. The letters and other biographical bits of famous writers and the drawings by Thackeray and Cruikshank, reproduced in colour, com- bine to make it a volume of the greatest value and interest to more or less liter- ary people. HISTORY OF ART Translated from the French of Elie Faure by WALTER PACH PUBLISHED BY HARPER Under this ambitious title appears a detailed outline of the development of man as revealed by art—in short, the study of civilization and the Renais- sance. It is a comprehensive work of great value, superbly illustrated with masterpieces of art taken from all ages; but it is a thing to be studied rather than merely read, and, to be understood, it must be viewed from the Pater angle of intense aesthetic appreciation—an attitude of such depths and heights as must necessarily escape any brief résumé of its merits here. THE BORZOI COOK BOOK Compiled and translated by PRINCESS ALEXANDRE GAGARINE PUBLISHED BY KNOPF The housewife who is looking for something both complicated and novel with which to enliven the monotony of the ordinary American cuisine will take delight in The Borzoi Cook Book, For practical purposes and every-day use, it is hardly to be recommended, but it is a veritable gold-mine of exotic concoc- tions and delicious, though difficult, foreign dishes. Explicit directions are given for decoration, service, and all attendant details. A GUIDE FOR THE GREEDY by ELIZABETH ROBINS PENNELL PUBLISHED BY LIPPINCOTT No more need those who revel in a perfectly planned meal, who quiver with pleasure at the sight of some delectable dishand remember for years a surpassing soup or pudding, hide their ashamed emotions, for gluttony has been crowned one of the arts by an authority whose competency is based on a knowledge of the cookery of all the ages in all countries. Elizabeth Robins Pennell has called her book which thus vindicates and lauds the epicure, A Guide for the Greedy, and the names of the chapters convey an idea of the ecstasy with which foods and their products are described: “The Most Excellent Oyster,” “The Archangelic Bird,” “The Magnificent Mushroom,” “The Incomparable Onion,” “The Triumphant Tomato.” These are no essays for amateurs, those who tremble before a recipe and dare not vary one jot or one tittle from ingredients or directions. Rather they are for those who, having come through the drudgery of the kitchen and the technique of cooking, possess the pride of an artist in a meal which delights the eye and stimulates the imagination and gratifies the emotions as much as it nourishes the body. It is a book delight- fully written and one that will encourage the weariest cook and inspire anew the flagging hostess. W. L. W.

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E D fair son bt— ner ake best and er- R D April 15 $12,125 in cash prizes ranging from #25 to $1500 — 119 PRrizEs IN ALL ‘The makers of Lux announce a great far-reaching contest. Everyone has a chance towin : - - - purpose i ing for be > we mean anything po Nagel have not already given sno directions. ; "Fae silk bar out ee “4 washing garments Le fie “ 1, fine cotton or inen; joe bar out directions for washing blankets; f or washing automobiles. t helpfu av to use Lux af ird prize$ Lux for any prac- se such as sham- oo, washing TUES» peste - nished silver Or _ . a eo j e new purposes, Jus own words how you use we en Make the directions as rs cs as you possibly can—J ust asily But if you use tical new purpo fora practical new tellin i pare the best results. For the mos for using Lux fo purpose we give $250; for the ne rections goes t $75; for the third g a neighbor just how t helpful directions ra practical new the first prize of xt most helpful di- he second prize © most helpful $25. Countless women value Lux for launder- ing fine things. There are hosts of other reasons why both men and women value Lux.’ Mr. Smith for instance, washed the outsideof his house with it. He values Lux because it saved him a big painter’s bill. $1500 for the best letter on’Why I Value Lux’: - third prize $250, 12 prizes of $10Oeach = - - Mrs. Davidson always washes her dishes with Lux because it keeps her hands from looking rough and red. She values Lux for many things, but the effect on her hands is the most important. Other fastidious women value it because second prize$500 ; it is so wonderful for the family laundry. The rich Lux lather is so easy on their skin. Just tell us why you value Lux. $1,500 for the best letter—$500 for tae second best, $250 for the third best, $190 for each of the 12 next best letters. the order Innumerable women use Lux for launder- ing all kinds of fine fabrics. They use it, ing dishes and for shampoo. We have many interesting letters from women who have found that Lux is in- eee their importance to 48 states and the Distriot of Colu too, in ever increasing numbers for wash- comparable for washing milk bottles, for cleaning tarnished silver, etc. Men have many important uses for it ‘ that they take time to write us about. You Probably use Lux for quantities of interesting things. Tell us about them, State Prizes lincludin histri j ‘ f g the District of Columbia) amounting to$6125,. F a ag and complete list of purposes for which me use le “ papier rote in ) you. 49 first prizes of $75 each ( mbia); 49 second prizes of $50 each ‘ree in the order of their importance to you. To the one in each state and the Districs of Columbia who sends the most interest- ing and complete list goes the first prize of $75—for the next most interesting and complete list goes the second prize of $50. These letters illustrate what we mean: Edward Bok wrote: ‘‘When I put up my limousine for the summer the up- holstery was full of dust and spots. I didn’t believe anything could bring it back to its freshness, but Lux did. I congratulate you on having such a product.”’ From Miss Harrison, ‘“‘In draping the flags for a fete of nations at which for Willa Cather I wanted everything to be Czecho-Slovakian in honor of her heroine, Antonia. That very morning I found my lovely Bohemian luncheon set had yellowed! It was washed won- Special Prize of $1,500.For the most interesting account of an incident in the life of awell-known person in which Lux has figured; second prize $500; third prize $200. Joseph Choate was guest of honor, one flag became soiled. It was washed with Lux and came out beautifully; the colors bright—the white unstreaked.” Miss Browne wrote, “‘At a luncheon derfully with Lux. The rich embroidery lost no brilliance—the cloth was gleam- ing white. letter telling of an incident in the life of a well-known person in which Lux has figured, $1500;second prize, $5(C0; third prize, $200. ”> For the most interesting RULES 1. This contest is open to every- one in the United States. 2. Send contributions to Lever Bros. Co., Dept.J, Cambridge, Mass, 3. The fact that you may have sent us washing directions, told us why you value Lux, told us of the lives of well-known people in new uses for Lux, of incidents in . which Lux has figured, does not bar you from competing. Write us again. 4. You may compete in one or more of thecontests. Use separate sheet for each. Number each con- tribution—Contest 1, Contest2,etc. 5. Write or print your name and address at top of each page. 6. Write in ink onone side of paper only. Number each page. 7. In ease of a tie the full amount of prize goes to each tying con- testant. 8. Contest closes June 1, 1924. Letters postmarked after twelve midnight, June Ist, will not be considered. It costs nothing to enter the contest. If you wish to compete but have never used Lux, write us and we will send you a free sample. Lever Bros. Co., Dept. J, Cambridge, Mass. Judges Miss L. Ray Balderston, author of “Laundering”; Mrs. Ellen B. McGowan, co-author of “Textiles and Clothing”; an editor of eachof the following magazines-Woman’s Home Companion, Miss Martha Sanford; Ladies’ Home Journal Miss Martha Dodson; Modern Pris- cilla, Mrs. Elizabeth Macdonald.

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118 io LECT YOUR SKIN FOOD insist. upon 1 Professionally Demonstrated Merit E BuRNHAM SKIN REJUVENATOR is the chief factor in all facial treatments in the E. Burnham System of Beauty Culture. Thous- ands of graduate Beauty Specialists use it profess- ionally and endorse it for home treatment. It is a cream of velvety texture which will improve any complexion no matter how youthful or beau- tiful it may be. IT IS TRULY A SKIN FOOD Systematic use of Skin Rejuvenator nightly before retiring will soon banish all worry about the com- plexion. Worlds Largest B U RN HAM’ S Beauty Establishment CHICAGO din Constant Use at At Department Stores, Drug Stores and Beauty Shops. Special trial size tubes may be had for ten cents each by addressing our Professional Department, 138 North State Street, Chicago. Basi ly Demonstrate: IRNHAM, Inc Gt st fer.vere) NEM YORK Professional ¢ Preparations rA RIS VOGUE wy £. ete (Continued from page 51) the one of medium length with some flare in the lower part, taken from the Persian; and the third type, which may be vaguely of Russian or Chinese in- spiration. In some houses, the straight lines of the majority of the tailored dresses have been varied by a suggestion of the Directoire or the Empire line, achieved by a yoke, a fold or tuck in the material, or a line of trimming. Martial et Armand, Beer, and Jeanne Hallée have given these hints, while Drecoll has still more tentatively suggested them in a few models, and Louiseboulanger has used yokes and trimmings in the same way on a few coats. SPORTS CLOTHES Never have the couturiers paid so much attention to sports clothes—a striking sign of the times, for, nowadays, even those who only stand and watch wish to be dressed more or less like ac- tual players. These also are of several types, some rigidly practical, designed for strenuous service, and others differing but little in essentials from other day- time apparel. We find little tailleurs, more colourful than those for street wear, but very like them; frocks with kilt- pleated skirts planned for ease of movement, sometimes in one piece and sometimes with the vareuse top which slips on over the head, but looks almost like a jacket. There are quantities of pleated skirts, often in white thisseason, with blouses or jackets of the gayest colours. Lenief has made a charming thing with a blouse of one of the bright red-and-yellow plaid scarfs of Rodier and a finely pleated white serge skirt. Premet’s sports clothes are irresist- ible and exactly in the note of the mo- ment. At the first showing of the collec- tion, they caused much admiration and some laughter, due to the very slangy names in indescribable French argot which Madame Charlotte had bestowed upon them and which the English- speaking vendeuses had the greatest difficulty in translating for the buyers. Some of them had frocks of pleated crépe de Chine with little Breton jackets of cloth, linen, or leather, entirely em- broidered in small toile de Jouy patterns in chintz colours. Jenny, also, shows bright coats of prints, sometimes three- quarter length and sometimes quite short, with others of white piqué Lanvin has a novelty in the form of a little paletot of brilliant plaid gingham with a navy-blue pleated skirt. One might go on cataloguing new ideas for pages. The Premet models (page 49) are more descriptive than para- graphs of writing. A great innovation is theculotte skirt of Lelong, the most prac- tical one on the market, which is abso- lutely undetected as long as one wishes it to be hidden. Frocks designed for sports wear are often completed by capes of varying lengths, sometimes quite short, and they simply revel in scarfs of infinite variety. The simple pleated crépe frocks which have made a part of smart ward- robes for several seasons are here again. Many of them show novel kinds of pleat- ing—that which makes a plaid or the tiny close kind called “crystal” or some odd sort of zigzagging. Sometimes, these frocks have little Breton jackets, oc- casionally of patterned tricots, but more often of crépe de Chine to match. Pre- met borders these last with a band of crépe in a contrasting colour, with pretty effect. It is remarked that there 1s far less patterned tricot than usual, and I hear from the Midi that plaids have to a great extent replaced it. It has been said, with more or less truth, that the ultramodern woman wears only two types of clothes in sum- mer: sports things all day and dance frocks all night. Like all such generali- zations, this is only more or less true. Life at the resorts might very well be dressed on this plan, but life in Paris during the season of May and June requires other garments, and the collec- tions have made full provision for them, Almost every house specializes in the ensemble, or coat and frock designed tob = worn together; and, though we see this idea in all kinds of clothes, it is in after- noon dress, perhaps, that it finds its happiest expression. The coats are all lengths—occasionally even quite short; frequently, they are still straighi, though they also have fulness, either concentrated directly in front or at eac side of the front or at the sides, place:| rather low. THE ENSEMBLE Sometimes, the coats are of one material and the dresses of another; in the latter case, the one may very wel! be lined with the other, particularly in the combination of print and plain. Lanvin decorates the facing of her coat. to match the decoration of the gown ani puts large pockets in these ornate facings with novel effect. Materials oi all kinds, including chiffon, are used for these ensembles—as shown in the models from Renée, sketched on page 50. Patou has specialized in them, and on the same page are seen sketches of two models—one designed for afternoon and the other, according to him, for din- ner in the Bois in summer. The second shows his new use of spiral-pleated frills, which he declares he has taken from the 1887 to 1890 period. The frocks under the coats are of vari- ous types—tunics long, short, and in three-quarter length, both straight and slightly flaring; straight frocks of pleated crépe; or frocks softly full, their fulness in the front or at the sides or below the knees all the way round. Besides the afternoon ensembles, we find charming separate afternoon dress- es. Though there are some of rich ma- terials on the principle of the fuurreau, many more have some fulness abou: them, fulness which does nothing to disguise the straight lines of the figure. One of the greatest favourites is the long, straight line extending below the knee, beltless and close fitting, which breaks into fulness around the feet. DRAPERY In certain houses—at Drecoll’s for example,—we come across novel lines of drapery, well illustrated on page 51. Vionnet, also, has a pretty new idea in slight drapery, which consists in gather- ing all the fulness in a crépe gown to one side of the front, where it is finished in a large circle of fine shirring with a knot of crépe in the middle. Many of Vion- net’s soft frocks are completely circular in front and then are held in to the figure by a narrow belt or strip of the material; the folds quite casually fall where they will, with an effect which recalls the monastic dress of the middle ages Vionnet also has frocks of crépe that are pure Greek in inspiration—finely pleated and held to the figure by cord- ings of the materials. Afternoon frocks are frequently sleeveless, but, when sleeves are present, they are usually long and tight, coming well over the hand in a graceful manner, For warmer weather, there are irre- sistible things in printed crépes, crépe de Chine, georgette, and chiffon, often in flowery patterns, sometimes geom.¢* or Oriental. A slender, pretty woman looks like an animated blos: 9m ii. >ne of these vaporous creations, but, !ii . the (Continued sn. 7 + *

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UE S Pnerali- S true. ell be | Paris | June collec- them, in the d tob» e this after- ds its re all short : aight, eithe: -eac lace:| one ther : wel! ly in lain, Oats and nate S of | for dels 50. on two 00n lin- ond Is, the ri- in nd ot ir or d. ve S- i- f. O a GARMENT i 6 BAG owes: I SIDE OPENING =, | Bilbasionesnneseesasscacitceaee — ~ ws Ry on ¥ Fahne : - ee 4i3 ie s coats of wife and self. Delighted at results. Two bags cost $4. Still good. Storage would have cost a total of $24 a season, or $72 for the 3 years, Clear saving of $68. ] / Fur Storage Cost a season. Buyer of great New York Department store ¢ has for 3 years used Dust-No Garment Bags tostore fur 119 OPENS IN 9 SECONDS Side opening bag is a great time and trouble saver. Clothes can be put in or taken out in 9 seconds. Bag is air-tight, proof against dust, dirt, dampness and moths. — A better way to store winter clothes Patented, 9 second garment bag is air-tight — proof against moths, dirt and wrinkles In the best department stores you see well-dressed women purchasing this new type garment bag. Clothes are hung full length—no crushing or ugly wrinkles. Kept clean and shapely, these clothes last longer, look much better. Winter garments are not sewn up in sheets or packed away in boxes with the inevitable crushing and creasing; nor do women pay $10.00 to $15.00 a season to store fur coats. New, patented discovery 3 years ago a new way was found to store clothes safely in bags. The usual clumsy, flimsy type of bag construction was superseded. This patented, exclusive method not only saves great time and trouble but eliminates dust, dirt, dampness, moths, creasing or crushing. A special way of closing the bag makes it air-tight. 3 garments are now hung inside one bag. Each bag is made of stout, non- tearing material—lasts a decade. The patented side-opening method is simple and easy. Clothes are put in or taken out in 9 seconds. Bags can safely be hung anywhere in the house. Two types of bags The name of this bag is Dust-No. It is made in two types: 1. Red Cedarized—of heavy, red rope paper, chemically cedarized, pre- ferred for storing winter clothes. 2. Blue Odorless—of strong, blue duplex material, odorless. Prevents white garments turning yellow. Suit- able for dainty gowns wanted at a moment’s notice. Each type comes in 4 sizes ($1.50 to $2.25) adaptable to all kinds of suits, coats and dresses. Keep this pag2, pick out the bags you want, and take it to your nearest depart- ment or drug store. If they cannot supply you, we will. Send no money. Just mail coupon. DUST~NO PATENTED SIDE OPENING -MOTH PROOF GARMENT BAG Two Styles of Dust-No Garment Bags Dust-No Garment Bags are made in two styles—Red Cedarized and Blue Odorless. Both are patented and exclusive and have these advantages: Side opening—9 seconds Air-tight Dirt and dust proof Moisture proof Moth and vermin proof Cannot crush or wrinkle clothes RED ( Cedarized) Made of heavy, red rope paper, chemically cedarized, white lined. Preferred for stor- ing winter garments. Faint, pleasant cedar odor. BLUE (Odorless) Made of strong, blue duplex material, white lined and odorless. Prevents white or light colored garments from turning yellow. Ideal bags for bedroom closet to keep dainty dance frocks and men’s dress suits free from moths, dust, soot and dampness. Both types of Dust-No Garment Bags are made in 4 sizes, as follows: A—27x40x4 inches ..... $1.50 B—27x50x4 inches ..... 1.75 C—27x60x4 inches ..... 2.00 D—30x66x4 inches ..... 2.25 The Lewy Chemical Company 58 West 15th Street, New York, N. Y. I ORDER DIRECT ..mi3e sie sou r The Lewy CHEMICAL Company Dept 7 | —-58 West 15th Street, New York, N. Y. | | Send me- ---Dust-No Garment Bags I (Number, size and style) parcel post collect. If not satisfactory, I will return in 7 days | —money to be refunded. | as TEI DI aa Sinn en ecscicisllasn igiaheneeicreeae tigi ]

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120 COUR, Created ( for that woman to whom the secret allure of a delicate and subtle perfume is the supreme touch of her toilette) LES PARFUMS DES JARDINS DE FIORET. “ 7 FEE-O-RAY 8, RueYbry, Neuilly PARIS Crhibited a E Distinguished Shops~ 677. Fifth Avenue: NEW YORK rA mss VOGUE FAS @ 40 N's (Continued from page 118) flowers, they need the sun to bring them out in full glory. It has been observed that fashions move in two-year cycles; so that, as we were inundated with novelties at this time last year, it was reasonable to suppose that this season would be devoted to the development of existing ideas rather than to the introduction of new ones. This, to a great extent, is what happened in the February col- lections, with one exception, which was found in the crystallization of the numer- ous rumours of the high waist-line into a few models of direct Empire or Direc- tuire inspiration. Though these models are for both daytime and evening, the evening ones are more definitely of the period, and so it seems appropriate to discuss the revival of this influence here. Just before the war, Directoire modes were rampant; we even wore little coats in a plain colour with wide revers and long, narrow skirts of striped mate- rials taken directly from engravings, and our very nightgowns had waist-lines under the bust. The deadly practicality of our lives in wartime brought the waist-line down to normal with a run; and since then it has been everywhere, including right to the knees. At the present moment, the smartest silhouette, particularly for evening, suppresses it altogether. The only new place for it to go, therefore, is up, and some of the dressmakers, particularly Beer, believe firmly that up it is going. Drecoll hints the same thing in several models; Martial et Armand and Jeanne Hallée show some models that are as literal as pictures of the period; Louise- boulanger suggests the high line occa- sionally; Vionnet has a model or two in which a different colour is used across the bust and shoulders of an evening gown, with a suggestion of the same epoch; while Paul Caret has at least one evening gown which might have been worn by the Empress Josephine herself. The daytime models are far less literal, as a rule; they merely accent a high line on a straight model, with a fold ora yoke or a touch of trimming. Taken as an indication of the immediate future, the situation is interesting and provocative, but not entirely defined. A MODE IN EMBRYO The Directoire, or Empire, line is waiting for the sanction of the women —or even of a single woman—whose opinion counts. It will probably be sufficient for one of the really important personalities of the French capital to appear in an Empire gown, to launch a revival which may definitely influence our present fashions. I doubt very much whether its vogue will be as wide-spread as it was in 1913, and this for a definite reason. At that time, we wore very long corsets—long both above and below the waist—of a rigidity which, while nothing at all in comparison with the armour-plate that had preceded it, was horribly confining in comparison with our present-day ideas. The so- called “corset” of to-day is a mere belt holding and supporting rather than com- pressing the hips and leaving the body absolutely free at and above the waist- line. Nevertheless, in all but the really meagre figure, there must be some slight fulness where the belt stops at the top, and this fulness is revealed by a mode which raises the waist-line to the bust, unless the line is merely marked in slight fashion, such as some of the dressmakers have shown in their spring collections. Evening materials are often thinner and more supple and are not used in such scanty lines as those of the day- time mode; so that, if women find this line attractive, it is quite possible that they may order an Empire evening gown or so, just for the sake of the change. As a matter of fact, we have general fashions from this period already, though some of them are less obvious than others. There is, first of all, the ubiquitous scarf, becoming more pop- ular every day of its life and almost as essential a complement of the evening gown as it was under Napoleon. The new chiffon frocks—the prettiest in- ventions imaginable and marvellously becoming to the slender figure d /a mode —are invariably accompanied by scarfs, which women play with as a Spanish coquette plays with her fan, making them express countless things. There is an extraordinary resemblance, also, between the hat of the moment, now that its brim has been suppressed in the back, and the little bonnet of the period, which was developed from the classic helmet. In the engravings of the time, one can find shapes that would be perfectly at home to-day with a Reboux label inside them, THE “BOB” OF THE DIRECTOIRE These things are obvious, but it is more surprising to find, in the same old engravings, heads that are shingled in the back and long in the front, in the very fashion of our day. Does any one realize that the ladies of the Directoire wore their back hair shingled? And does any one know the reason? It was one of those grim jokes of a period when even * tragedy was parodied. The aristocrats of the Revolution had their hair cut off before they went to the guillotine. So, when the new régime was established, its ladies clipped their own. Perhaps, they hoped in this way to establish their position as members of a new aristocracy. Some of them compromised by curling their short locks all over their heads. Others cut it closer in the back, as we do to-day, and tousled it over their foreheads, or wore those little ringlets brushed forward on the temples that we see in the men’s portraits of the time. Though the immediate future of the Empire evening gown is shrouded in mystery, it is significant enough that, in several collections, it is definitely here. But, at present, it is represented by an insignificant minority, compared either with the straight slip of rich material or of lovely beaded design, or with the gown with more or less fitted bodice and skirt with some soft fulness, of the rest of the evening mode. The first type is still the most frequently seen in smart places in Paris; quite short, more often beaded than plain, it sometimes has a pretty addition of a hem in three different shades of the same coloured chiffon, one over the other, one of them, of course, to match a chiffon scarf. Its rival is the type having fulness of some sort in the skirt, usually of thin materials. We are al- ready beginning to see women wearing the evening gown of chiffon which ‘em- ploys a great deal of material in all sorts of ways. The collections, however, have also made provision for the important social events of the coming Parisian season, when the grande robe du soir may hope, if ever, to have its chance. The sketches on pages 52 and 53 give a very good idea of the prevailing types proposed. One sees that the grande robe is stately and as slender in line as it is gorgeous in material orin decoration; that the “little” evening frock is fuller; that it may be black if one likes, a cheer- ful sort of black, frequently touched with colour; that it may have a rather fitted bodice and a skirt of interesting fulness, though in no sense “bouffant;” (Continued on page 126) Apr

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DeBEVOIS PREG di OUI, he perfect long Br Zandeaw yor thi Srungs Clothes implies that you are perfectly groomed, that you challenge any criticism of your soi/ette or the tout ensemble, How necessary, then, to actually be beyond re- proach! Your figure must look its best. Every good line you possess must be given the fullest expression. It is this glorifying, idealizing effect that ‘“‘Smartway” confers so originally, so admirably. This long bandeau cre- ation by DeBevoise truly transforms the figure, enabling you to wear the new modes with jpoise and distinction. “Smartway” has uncanny ability to bring out all the style the couturiére or dressmaker fashioned into your Spring wardrobe. ‘““Smartway” gives the bust correct position and con- tour... smooth, unbroken lines . . . and, equally impor- tant, the correct back-line so much stressed in this season’s models. No other bandeau has “Smartway” tailoring or can confer ‘‘Smartway”’ lines. This unusual foundation garment is made in back- fastening and side-fastening models, in every desirable fabric. Prices range from one to six dollars. “Smartway” is obtainable in the foremost department stores and specialty shops. Each genuine garment is identified by a tiny label in which are woven the names “DeBevoise” and “Smartway.” GP i very act of wearing newly purchased clothes ad. 7 WRITE FOR FREE ILLUSTRATED STYLE FOLDER T ad: ei CHAS-R-DeBEVOISE - CO- New York CHICAGO BOosTON SAN FRANCISCO LONDON: 60 Wilson St., Finsbury Sq., E. C. 2 “SMARTWAY’’ is made very Y SELF-ADJUSTING elastic Jong to give unbroken lines r gores insure perfect fit to and to prevent “riding up.’ the figure in any position. The adroit dart construc- Smartway” is the ac tion characteristic of cepted bandeau for achiev. ing the fashionable back- “Smartway”’ gives the bust f line coveted by every mod- smooth lines without dis- tortion or unwholesome ish woman. pressure. In side-fastening models (Inside lines show the the hooks are placed con- hand-tailored dart feature). + veniently forward. v 2 Back Vi Front View x - — Lae Tt IN By JEANNETTE PHILLIPS GIBBS Editor’s Note—This article is the sixth of a series on legal and financial affairs that will be pub- lished from time to time in Vogue. Questions addressed to Vogue In- formation Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City, will be answered by the author of the article. RS. McALISTER toyed with her pearls. “Have you heard about Violet?” she asked. “Such a shame. Her husband left his propertyalltiedup . . . . No, thank you. Nolemon . . . . So that she can’t get a cent Of course, she will have a good income, but the trustees— is that what you call them?—even take some of that. It seems outrageous to me. At this point the speaker was inter- rupted by the clear and crisp voice of Miss Perkins, an aristocratic, narrow- minded, yet ‘wholly charming maiden lady of some sixty summers. She spoke decisively. “It’s the best thing Jim could have done. Violet is ridiculously extravagant and too impractical to run even her servants, to say nothing of her financial affairs. If shecould get at the principal. we should all be lending her money in a few years, after she had made a ridi- culous parade of wealth!” This is the type of information, or misinformation, about trusts and trust estates which can be picked up at the average tea or dinner-party. A kernel of truth is frequently there, buried in personal detail and gossip. In the in- cident just mentioned, I shouldn’t be surprised if Miss Perkins had a rather accurate idea of trusts, but I am sure Mrs. McAlister considered the word the name for a cruel legal device which keeps its victims, usually unfortunate women, from getting all the money in the world to spend. As we are constantly surrounded by people who are creating trust estates or receiving incomes from some already created and as, at any moment, we ourselves may pass into one class or the other, or even both, a little more ac- curate information might be very useful. TRUSTEE AND BENEFICIARY A trust estate is created when a person holds the legal title for the benefit of another. The person holding the legal title is called the trustee. The person for whose benefit the estate is held—that is, the person receiving the income or proceeds—is called the bene- ficiary, or, more technically, the cestui qui trust. A trust can be created intervivos— that is, during the lifetime of the creator, or it can be provided for in a will. A trust established in a will must be in- corporated into the body of the will, and the will must be executed according to the requirements of the law. An illus- tration may make all this clearer. } Mr. Jones dies leaving four hundred thous- and dollars to his brother John, but in trust, nevertheless, to pay the income to the former’s daughter Mary. John Jones has the legal title, the right to invest and reinvest the money, but Mary has the right to the income which Uncle John must turn over to her. Uncle John is the trustee, Mary the beneficiary, or cestui qui trust. This practice of conveying property to one person for the use of another arose in connection with grants of land many years ago. Modern writers trace it back to old German customs rather than Roman. At any rate, in England, soon after the Conquest, land was some- times conveyed by one man to another VOGUE me G:F for the use of a third. But this idea seems chiefly to have been applied in those times in the conveyance of land to a person for the use of a religious order, which by its constitution was forbidden to hold property. A distinc- tion was, therefore, made between the ownership and the use of a thing. Ownership and use later developed into the more modern idea of legal and equitable title. For many years, under the English law, married women were in much the same position as the church in the mat- ter of holding property. The only way property could be left or given to a mar- ried woman for her separate use and be- yond the control of her husband was by the intervention of a trustee who held the legal title and gave the income to her. That reason for creating trust estates no longer exists, because, in England and in all the states of this country, a married woman can now hold the title to property in her own name independent of the control of her husband. DUTIES OF A TRUSTEE The responsibility of a trustee‘is great. His duties are clearly defined by law. He must care for the property with the highest degree of caution. He must not make any profit out of the estate. He must not purchase from the beneficiary; at least, such a transaction is under suspicion. He must render an account at intervals, showing the details of his administration. In many states, the type of investment in which he can place the funds is prescribed by statute. In all states, the highest degree of care in the selection of investments is re- quired. A trustee is, of course, allowed reasonable fees for his time, but these areusually determined by law in relation to the amount of the estate. In New York, for example, let us assume that a trust estate consists of one hundred thousand dollars and that it is invested in gilt-edged bonds yielding five thou- sand dollars a year; the annual fee for the service of investing this sum is one hundred and seventy-five dollars. This represents five per cent on the balance of three thousand. This is the rate fixed by statute. Up to this point, I have been referring to trusts for the benefit of individuals, hypothetical cousins and aunts—es- pecially cousins who can be counted by the dozen. But money or property may also be left in trust for charity, and such a disposition is called a charitable trust. A woman of my acquaintance had a quarrel with her lawyer because he would not allow her to deduct from her income tax regular disbursements (this is her phrase) to reckless nieces and nephews, nor would he admit that trusts for the benefit of such incom- petents were charitable trusts. Such deeds are charity in your own soul, perhaps, but not in the eyes of the law. The legal definition of a charity is worth repeating because it is always a sur- prise to the layman. “A charity may be defined as a gift to be applied consist- ently with existing laws for the benefit of an indefinite number of persons either by bringing their hearts under the in- fluence of education or religion, reliev- ing their bodies from disease, suffering, or constraint; by assisting them to establish themselves for life, or by erect- ing or maintaining public buildings or works or otherwise lessening the burdens of government.” These are the words of a judge of the Supreme Court of Massachusetts in the early eighteenth century—not of an English judge in white wig, as the phraseology might lead one to imagine. They have been (Continued on page 128) eek Tea

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tpril 15 roe gae— rom wim vode ROSE LEAF or a Dry Skin ECAUSE of the active outdoor life most women lead nowa- . days the faceis constantly exposed to wind and weather. Thus there is a greater tendency to dryness of the skin which causes the small tell-tale lines and leathery appearance. This can be corrected by the use of Primrose House creams and lotions which cleanse the skin, nourish it and restore to it freshness and youthful texture. Primrose House preparations have been developed scientifically to enable every woman to always look her best. They are sold at the better stores throughout the country or will be sent by mail upon receipt of price. Every smart woman should have our booklet,** Here Dwells Youth.” Mailed free to any address. CLEANSING For treating a dry skin use the following Primrose House preparations: Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream It leaves the skin scrupulously clean with the fresh fragrance of real rose leaves. Three sizes, $1.00, $2.00, $3.60. Skin Freshener—After clean- ing the face with Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream, wash it with absorbent cotton saturated with Skin Freshener. This promotes the activity of the skin, and keeps it firm and healthy. Two sizes, $1.25, $3.00 Smoothskin Cream—To nour- ish the skin and eradicate the lines which usually form when the skin is dry. Three sizes, $1.00, $2.00, $3.00. Primrose House Foundation Cream—Excellentas askin pro- tector and a powder base for a dry, sensitive skin. Two sizes, $1.50, $2.50. Chiffon Face Powder for a del- icate, smooth finish. Blends im- perceptibly with every skin,and makes it look its loveliest. $3.60 ii) ‘Here t | Dwells Youth® rimrose Ffouse 5g SEasT52™¢st; NewYorx, Ei Department A-4 S$ fe S7> nated 123 | 9 Dress of PENIKEES 1924 RHAPSODE created by Mme. Irene “Deep “Border Effects Provide Real Individuality | O the shimmering beauty of PENIKEES RHAPSODE has now been added the distinction of deep border designs that thoughtfully provide a dress | with its Own trimming, carrying out its own | | | | Gs exquisite hue in delightful self-color effects. In the charm- ing sports frock illustrated, for example, the border forms the pleated apron front and the close sleeves, the modish | pencil stripes of the body of the silk forming the rest of | the gown. 1924 RuapsopDé in plain allover patterns is equally novel and desirable, in new shades of rare loveliness. See other PENIKEES novelties and staple weaves for Spring—par- t.cularly PENIKEES CANNELE, CARESS SUBLIME, and CHEC-O’LAINE— at any good store. The name PENIKEES in the selvage identifies them. The new PENIKEES FASHION BOOK for Spring, offering many unusual style ideas, gladly mailed at your request. JENTKEE § BOSILKS 2 CARL SCHOEN SILK CORPORATION New YORK = 260 FouRTH AVENUE

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124 Jay-Thorpe presents An Exclusive Street Frock Frock—A smart model after Chanel, exactly copied by Fay-Thorpe for town wear 95-00 Hat—A Fay-Thorpe reproduction of @ Reboux 30.00 In accordance with the Jay-Thorpe policy of presenting smart clothes for the well- dressed woman at a moderate price, we have exactly copied this attractive street ensemble at a cost far below that of the Parisian original. 24 Fifty-Seventh Street West New York. ANSWERS TO NY reader can obtain from Vogue Information Service answers to questions on social usage, Cus- toms, entertaining, and matters of etiquette; on costume and fashion, on household decoration, on shops ‘and wholesale houses dealing in merchan- dise of interest to Vogue readers, and on other subjects that fall within the scope of this magazine, by conforming to the following regulations. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS (x) The name and address must be legibly written or printed at the begin- ning or the end of every letter. (2) In order to answer all inquiries promptly, it is suggested that as few questions as possible be asked in any one letter; a reply may be delayed because of totally unrelated questions contained in a letter, any one of which may require a considerable amount of research to answer it adequately. (3) Unless especially requested to keep a reply confidential, Vogue is privileged to publish any inquiry and answer that it considers of interest to its readers. Mrs. E. H. A: I have a number of dresses from last summer that I wish to remodel. I should like to know how long skirts are being worn at present, as well as any other suggestions for making the frocks more suitable for this summer. Ans.: The new dresses are being made ten or twelve inches from the ground although evening frocks are a little longer—about six inches above the floor. Skirts are a little tighter, and the waist-line—if there is one at all—is lower. Neck-lines remain very much the same as in the models of last year. Mrs. E, P. R.: In making a return call upon a married couple, is it cus- tomary to leave one or two visiting- cards when using the Mr. and Mrs. combination card? Ans.: In calling upon a husband and wife, the proper form is to leave one of the combination, Mr. and Mrs., cards and one of your husband’s cards, as your husband is understood to be call- ing upon both husband and wife and you only upon the wife. It is quite cor- rect, also, to leave one of your own cards and two of your husband’s, if you do not care to use the combination card. Miss A. B.: In the case of the double wedding of two sisters, should the two brides walk to the altar, one on each side of the father, or is it equally correct for one bride to beescorted ! by her uncle? In the latter case, should the father give away both brides, or may the uncle give away one sister? From this point, what is the procedure? As the wedding is to be held in a hotel, with a reception afterwards, is it necessary to send out cards for the reception with the wedding invitations, or may one invitation cover both ceremony and reception? Ans.: We think it advisable to have your uncle take one sister to the altar and to have your father give away both brides. But, as. there is no actual rule governing this point, it is perfectly correct for the father to accompany both brides. The Episcopal marriage service may be found in the Prayer Book and is followed exactly. If the wedding is not to follow the Episcopal ceremony, the clergyman should be consulted for detaiis. In being married at a hotel, the usual custom is simply to turn and receive one’s friends in the same room directly after the ceremony. If the reception is held in another room, each bride should go directly there with her husband. Guests may be ex- pected to understand that they are to remain after the ceremony, but it is quite usual to add “and afterwards at VOGUE CORRESPONDENTS the reception,” at the end of the invita- tions. Consequently, no extra cards are necessary except to people who are not asked to the ceremony. The following form is offered as a suggestion for such an invitation: Mr. and Mrs. Clarence Blair Mitche: request the honour of your presence at the marriage of their daughter Mildred Aurelia to Mr. John William Brooks on Saturday, the sixth of October at half after two o’clock at the Ambassador and afterwards at the reception Miss A. D.: Is it perfectly correct for the bridegroom, best man, and ushers to wear white flannel trousers and dark coats at an informal noon wedding late in June, to be held at an Episcopal church? Are organdie dresses in good taste for both bride and attendants, and, if so, should the bride wear a wed- ding veil or an organdie hat? Will or- gandie be worn this summer? Ans.: It is quite permissible for the groom, ushers, and best man to wear white flannels and dark blue coats, with blue ties, brown shoes and socks to match, and plain or striped shirts with soft collars. Organdie is very lovely and, of course, is always worn, but, this year, crépe de Chine, pussy- willow taffeta, and a very fine French voile are the favourite materials. Crépe de Chine is charming and economical, for, when one is tired of white or a light colour, it can be dyed. With a wedding- dress of any of these materials, a veil of tulle or point d’esprit may be worn and is decidedly preferable to a hat. The April 1 number of Vogue may be con- sulted for additional suggestions for the bridal costume. Mrs. W. D. C.: I should like your advice in the matter of the correct form for visiting-cards. Should my own and my husband’s cards have the same style of lettering and is it permissible for a son who has the same name as his father to use the same plate, with “second” attached? Ans.: The husband and wife should by all means use the same lettering on their cards, so that they may be placed together in one envelope whenever the occasion requires. It is not possible from a technical point of view for your husband and son to use the same plate, as words can not be obliterated and put back. We do not understand how your son can be “second,” if his name is the same as his father’s. A boy is “second” if named for an uncle or grand- father, when the father’s name is differ- ent; “junior” when named for his father; and “third” when he, his father, and his grandfather have the same name. “Third” becomes “junior” after the death of the grandfather. Mrs. W. P.: Will you please tell me whether or not it is absolutely necessary to keep one’s hat on at a family luncheon to which the invitation was informally phrased, but sent out ten days in ad- vance? At such a luncheon how long should a guest stay? Ans.: In New York, a hat is worn, even at the most informal luncheon, unless one’s hostess expressly suggests taking it off, when it may or may not be removed, as one likes. In town, where the hostess has usually planned to go to a concert or picture-gallery or to play bridge or mah jong, one never stays later than three o’clock unless there is a definite reason, but, in any easy country life, it is not unusual to spend the afternoon. Miss M.H.:Ishould like your advice on these points. With what initial should a bride’s silver be marked? Is there (Continued on page 126) a

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UE iS vita- ) are are al San” _— < EE a SS er ee ae a April 15

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Not in years has a fabric so com- pletely captured the smart world “Flamingo If you have not yet included a FLAMINGO garment in your Spring wardrobe a buying thrill awaits you. For you never wore such a glorious fabric---so jaunty, colorful, novel, authentic. FLAMINGO comes in varied designs and in one and two color effects. See them in your store.

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‘In hesign and Color. -Iculy Inspired: The true artist reflects his aleniidiidiss Much of the satisfaction which Milady derives from her Meadowbrook must be credited to the fact that it was made in colorful, cosmopolitan, sports-loving California — by artists working in sun-flooded, roof-garden studios, commanding an inspiring view of California landscape and of mag- nificent San Francisco Bay !

Meadowbrook artists borrow their exquisitecol- or chords from nature—from wildflowers, birds, butterflies, sea shells, fruit blossoms, mist-capped mountains, ripening harvests — with a touch of the Orient from San Francisco's picturesque China- town, thrown in, Ask to see the new Meadowbrooks — including special head sizes for bobbed hair — at those stores where you would expect to find the best.

Simon Miuinery Co. / Meadow brook Building, 989 Market St. San Francisco ~~ EASTERN SALES OFFICE | Louis Strauss €¥ Sons } | 15 West 38th Street, New York City for BF cata SPORT HAT S ene Town and Country PAT. OFF. COG EGG EVO CCU

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REGISTERED DRESS T HE personification of youth and charm! And they have the extraordinary advantage of being fashioned from a totally exclusive fabric—a stunning, rippling, quietly sparkling Plissé-ish Matellass€ that is dedicated and confined exclusively to “Fleurellé” Dresses. Adorable for Spring and Summer wear. And quite amazingly inexpensive. “Fleurellé” Dresses and the ‘“Fleurellé” Fabric are featured by the smartest stores everywhere. Write for name of “Fleurellized” dealer nearest to you— To identify a “‘Fleurell?” Dress— —look for the above Label The “Fleurellé” Fabric is created by Levi & Seligman Inc. “Fleurelle’’ Dresses are created by Greenwald, Friedman & Co. Inc. 10 East 32nd Street New York City 295 Fifth Avenue New York City any distinction between her household silver and her personal dressing-table appointments? What, exactly, is the purpose of a visiting-card reading “Mr. and Mrs. Robert Jones,” and how many cards are left by a husband and wife calling together, and by a wife alone? Ans.: The general custom is to mark wedding silver with the initials of the bride’s married name. Mary Scott Smith would have her silver marked M. S. S. The marking of dressing-table articles is entirely a matter of choice. The only objection to the initials of the maiden name is that, in adding toitlater, one will probably prefer the initials of the married name. The Mr. and Mrs. card is used for formal visiting and for enclosure with a joint gift, but it is equally correct, if not so formal, to en- close one Mr. and one Mrs. card. When a husband and wife call together, they leave one card each for every woman in the household and, in addition, one of the husband’s cards for the man of the house. The same rule is followed by a wife calling without her husband. Mrs. L. R. P.: In having a crest engraved on bridge cards, where should the Latin motto be placed? Ans.: In the words of an authority on the subject, “The motto is placed usu- ally on a ribbon or scroll underneath the shield, and, occasionally, above the crest.” If the engraver has placed it in any other position, it is incorrect. Mrs. L. J. L.: What is the most cour- teous way of acknowledging a stay of two days in the house of an older woman, the mother of a young man with whom -_— oe ae ee F or that it may prefer to flare slightly round the feet, like the white satin and silver lace model from Redfern, shown on page 53, or to have an important hem of embroidery, ruching, beading, or often of feathers. The lovely chiffon frock referred to before, which Chanel, among others, has interpreted delight- fully, will have to be shown in a later number. The flowery chiffons have been used by others in summer evening frocks which inspire one to become lyric in their praise, and, for which, the most subtle pen line in the world is a cold and pallid means of interpretation. Vionnet has a most interesting type of evening gown worked out in chiffons and georgette crépes, often of white, pink, or flesh colour, and really inspired by the robes of Blanche de Castille. It is fitted to the body in long lines, which seem in some manner to accentuate the hips rather than to repress them, and flows out about the feet in uneven points of fulness. In great contrast are her gowns of moire or satin, which have a sash of another colour set into them instead of tied about the hips or waist, with a huge bow either at one side or directly in the back; this bow is either encrusted, applied quite flat, painted on, or even woven into the material in gold oF silver. The wraps to wear over these ele- gancies are more often coats than capes VOGUE ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS (Continued from page 124) I am going to an out-of-town dance? I have never met the mother. Would flowers or a letter be the better way? Ans.: You should certainly write the lady who has entertained you as soon as possible after you reach home. It is very courteous of her to ask her son’s friends to her house, and you should make a point of deferring to her while visiting her and seeing as much as pos- sible of her. Flowers are a charming attention, but not at all necessary; but a prompt expression of your apprecia- tion is obligatory. A set form for a letter would sound very stilted, but the fol- lowing outline might prove helpful and offer suggestions’ My dear Mrs. Blank: I can not tell you how much I enjoyed the days I spent with you, nor how much I appreciate your hospitality. It was more than kind of you to ask me to your house and make my visit so delightful for me. I do hope you will know how truly I mean it when I say that every moment I spent with you was a pleasure. I hope it will not be so very long before I seeyou again. J ours very sincerely, Marion Lane Mrs. A. H. S.: Will you please tell me the correct form for marking linen and silver when a widow remarries? Ans.: When a widow marries again, she gives up her first husband’s name completely. Consequently, the initials used should be those of your Christian name, your,maiden name, and the name of your future husband. If you were Julia Elliott, and marrying Mr. Bertram, your initials would be J. E. B. AS HION S&S (Continued from page 120) this Season, though some houses, partic- ularly Worth, have done some wonder- ful capes, three of which are shown on page 54. The ensemble idea for evening is one which our grandmothers, who wore a cashmere shaw] with everything, would have found wildly extravagant. Considering the present price of rich materials, it would be rather luxurious to have a gorgeo us coat to go with every evening gown. But, for really impor- tant occasions, this harmony through- out one’s costume gives an extraordi- nary elegance and one in complete sympathy with the modern idea of making each costume a carefully com- posed and minutely studied whole, down to the last details of accessories and jewels. An exquisite summer wrap might be made of one of the Bianchini shawls of printed chiffon in that attractive pointed leaf design which is one of their greatest successes, and it would complete a chiffon frock delightfully. The short- haired mode makes some sort of light scarf indispensable with a décolleté gown, in order to protect the back of one’s cropped neck from sudden drafts. Unless the scarf is of chiffon to match the frock or contrast with it, it is sure to be one of Rodier’s lovely printed things; the newest ones are made of their tchinacrépe, a sort of georgette, with a different border set on with three or four lines of embroidery.—M.H. Apr \ In) | ay a

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April 15 STROOCK 00 % —" My Gir This label in a garment identifies the genuine J delightful STROOCK 100% Pure Fine ‘Virgin CAMELS HAIR CLOTH for all outdoo use @ For Spring what shallitbe? A Parisian replica from our Rue Lafay- ette ofice—a sportive mode, distinctly Amer- ican—or a tailored hat whose mannish severity reveals its London origin. Paige styles willplease you and Paige econ- omy will permit you to select a mode for every mood... a hat: for each occasion. Whichever be your choice, it will pay you to seek out the local Paige representative. We will be glad to fur- nish you his name. Pag. 29 West 38th Street New York In Paris: 103 Rue Lafayette TO DEALERS: The Paige Franchise may still be available in your com- munity, Ask us about it. 7a, (@) B) 29.0~) Da, LO) B) 2) Dae =D J6T. Cousins SOLD IN Seading Stores in {eading Cities AND IN NEW YORK AT 17 WEST 57th STREET

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| 7 Out of 10 long and tfanguish for beauty It is a regrettable truth that the beauty of 7 women out of 10 goes unfulfilled—that they long and languish for the beauty of the other 3. To these 7 women Madame Rubinstein, speaking with all the authority of her world-wide experience, says *““Unhappiness is only skin-deep.” But beauty of face is also “‘skin-deep” . . . and can be acquired by authoritative, scientific, individualized treatment. You need Helena Rubinstein. You need the certainty of her aid. Her certainty is based on the experience of a life devoted to the scientific analysis of every beauty problem which faces women—problems such as wrinkles, crowsfeet, relaxed muscles, moth-patches, enlarged pores, double chin, dry skin, blackheads, oily skin, sallowness—and the rest of the family of blemishes. You need Helena Rubinstein. From her numerous scientific Valaze Beauty Specialties she has selected 7 peculiarly essential beauty aids. Her experience, knowledge and skill are fully ex- pressed in these—they are true finger posts along the RIGHT road to Beauty. Valaze Cleansing and Mas- sage Cream Valaze Pasteurized Face Cream The ‘wonder cream’ that revitai- izes as it cleanses. Keeps the skin humid, nourished and aglow with vitality and skin-health; for - thin faces and necks, puffiness under the eyes, chapped lips and hands; for all ages and all types of skins. $1.00 Valaze Beautifying Skin- food An active, stimulating, skin-regu- lating cream which purifies, whitens and refines the complex- ion. Promotes the growth of skin cells, thus removing the discol- ored pigment. Wards off flabbi- ness and overcomes faded appear- ance of the skin. $1.00, $2.50, $4.50 Valaze Beauty Grains A skin-enlivening wash, more penetrative than soap, removes impurities, keeps texture fine and pores small, gives a velvet-smooth finish. $1.00, $2.00 Valaze Blackhead and Open Pore Paste, another soap _ substitute, refines coarse texture, removes greasiness, gently dislodges black- heads and_ reduces_ enlarged pores resulting from acne or other causes. $1.00, $2.00 Of exquisite softness. Used for general cleansing; clears the skin of impurites and prevents a dry, harsh condition. $.75, $1.25, $2.50, $5.00 Valaze Skin-ioning Lotion A mild but bracing tonic, gives sapfulness ani elasticity to the skin and should replace the water-wash. $1.25, $2.50 Skin-toning Lotion Special, for dry skins. $1.25, $2.25, $4.50 Valaze Anthosoros Rich, feeding, anti-wrinkle cream which restores and rebuilds the tissues, smooths and freshens the skin. A specialty for lines, crows feet, hollows ,and_ scraggy necks. $1.75, $3.50 Valaze Roman Jelly The Astringent Balm (For younger women)—A _re- juvenating balm-tonic, tightens loosening skin and smooths away lines and wrinkles. $1.00, $2.00 (For older women) — Valaze Georgine Lactee,—a powerful balsam tonic of heavier consis- tency than Roman Jelly—to flex the muscles and keep them firm, $3.00, $6.00 Where to obtain Valaze Preparations These Valaze Beauty Preparations are now within reach of the average woman's purse. To be had at the best stores, or ordered direct from Madame Rubinstein, enclosing check or money-order. Send for Mme. Rubinstein’s newest treatment booklet-— “Beauty for Every Woman” 7 out of 10 need Welena fubiiglein 46 W. 57TH STREET, NEW YORK CHICAGO—30 N. Michigan Ave. BOSTON—Thorndike Bldg., 23 Boylston Street, Suite 204. LONDON—26 Grafton St. W. 1. DETROI —1540 Wash. Blvd. Suite 628. NEWARK, N. J.—os1 Broad St. PARIS —126 Rue du Fbg. St. Honore. Ye eT I N VOGUE 1% US ££ (Continued from page 122) accepted as a general definition ever since and are quoted in all the leading text-books. The point is that, from the very nature of a gift for charity, the individuals ultimately to receive the benefit can not be ascertained or named in the gift, and, if the individuals to be benefited are so named, there is ne charity. CIKCUMSTANCES AND MOTIVES I have discussed in very general terms something of the history and the attributes of the trust. I now want to take up the usual circumstances under which trusts arise and various motives for their creation. A widow once went to the lawyer to have her will made out. She had three unmarried daughters. “I want to leave my property,” she said, “to my daughters equally, but I want to leave it so that it will belong to them exclusively and not their husbands, for I expect that they will all marry.” Tne lawyer then explained to her that under the existing law any property left to a woman after her marriage was her own separate property and that her husband had no claim upon it. But still the mother was not satisfied. “I want to arrange it,” she urged, “so that they can’t giveit to their husbands.” The lawyer then had to explain that the only way she could accomplish this was by leaving the money in trust, the income to be paid to the daughters at regular intervals. In this way, she could prevent the principal from being touched by either daughters or hus- bands. But if one of the daughters should choose to give her income to her husband, there is no way to prevent it. This motherly soul also confided to her attorney another dream. She wanted this income to be a source of comfort and succour to her descendants, gener- ation after generation. She wanted to establish a permanent trust. Ultimate distribution to persons yet unborn was the thing she contemplated with horror. “If I can’t distribute my money to my own daughters, because I fear for its safety, why should I give it to grandchildren whose ability and char- acter I can not, perhaps, judge in my lifetime?” The answer is, “The 1aw, madame, the law!” It is called the rule against perpe- tuities or remoteness. It is very tech- nical and difficult, but what it means is that no trust can continue forever. A person making a will can leave property to his children for life and then to his grandchildren until they are tweniy- one. At this time, the trust must come to an end and the grandchildren take full control of the property. The fact that a trust must cease at a certain remote time is no argument against its usefulness. Many men and many wo- men, too, like to feel that they have left their daughters protected from the possible failures of actual or hypothet- ical husbands. Many men also like to feel that wives and daughters are pro- tected by trustees from their own lack of experience in money matters. To pay a trustee a small per cent. for his services and thereby to ensure a conser- vative return of five per cent. is better for a man than to have his widow become the victim of financial sharks and lose her capital, or even better than to have her spend her entire fortune in the space of a few years and then wonder why she has no income. Trust funds of this type have as their motive the protection of the weak against their environment. At this moment, I know women who might well establish a trust fund for incompetent husbands. This is, perhaps, facetious, but the time is surely coming when trust funds will no longer be created for the weaker sex, but for al) helpless, incompetent, and foolish people. There has been a tendency recently for men to bestow large sums of money upon their wives in the form of trust funds. These gifts have been made during the lifetime of the donor. They have not been made in anticipation of death, but mostly by men in the robust health of middie age. The person who didn’t investigate might use these statistics to show a wonderful increase in the generosity of mankind. Such a person would advise all ladies to thank kind fathers and husbands whose hearts have so warmed that the very purse strings have become loose. But this is an idle dream which any cruel and analytical statistician can quickly shat- ter. He would say, ‘Do not thank these gentlemen, ladies! But thank the in- come tax, which our Government im- posed upon us all, If necessity is the mother of invention, then, at present taxation is the mother of generosity. Support taxation, ladies! It will in- crease your bank accounts.” Perhaps this sounds flippant, but it is perfectly true that many men with very large incomes have divided their capital with their wives to avoid paying larger taxes than was necessary. INCOME WITHOUT PROPERTY Trust estates will always be a usetul and needed means of giving a person the income of property when one does not want to give the property itself. Trust funds for children are created every day. Whether to leave money in trust or outright is frequently a psychological, as well as a legal, problem. I might say it is a psycholog- ical one first and a legal one second. The psychologist should tell you whether the character of the person would be benefited more by receiving money outright or in trust. The lawyer would then tell you how to accomplish either ef these purposes. If one makes up one’s mind to provide for trust funds in one’s will, it is obvious that the greatest degree of care must be used in the selec- tion of the trustee. The trustee in fiction has played different réles. Sometimes, he has been a kindly old soul with a father’s care looking after the children of his boyhood friend; sometimes, he has been a fine upright man, of middle age who eventually falls in love, not with the fortune, but with the beauti- ful face and character of the young beneficiary. Alas, at other times, he has turned out to be a villain, and the innocent widow and children have starved, while the false friend of their beloved father grew rich at their expense. As a general rule, however, and most fortunately for the sake of our peace of mind, trusted friends seldom turn out traitors, but they do die, move to.a distant state, or even go to Europe to live. If the trustees appointed in the will can not serve, the court will appoint some one else. I feel that the personal selection of a trustee is an advantage, and, for this reason, I feel it is usually advisable to appoint a bank as co- trustee or, indeed, as sole trustee. A bank does not die. Many of us, of course, remember the death of an oc- casional bank, usually preceded by what might be called a series of fevered withdrawals, but such a death is very rare among good banks. This world would be a different place if death were equally rare among good men. A bank also is in a position to have special in- formation about the nature and safety of securities. Of course, it is a mistake to think of a bank as an entity apart from the individuals who compose it. A man’s property must be cared for after his death by men, whether they (Continued on page 130)

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KNOWLES REDUCER “7\H, if only I could reduce exactly where I want to!” You can! The Knowles Reducer does just that, permitting you to roll off just as much or as litile as you think ought to be removed. And in just the spot you desire! Think of thirty hands massag- ing your flesh, reducing any part. That’s the Knowles Reducer— thirty balls conforming to the contour of the area, reaching every curve, crease, muscle. Guar- anteed to produce the desired results when faithfully used. Only a few minutes a day neces- sary. Send for free booklet, “Roll Off that Fat!”—fully explaining and illustrating the Knowles Reducer. Write right now! KNOWLES REDUCER 42 West 39th Street New York City

—in Paris —in Indianapolis C[he scene changes—but the figures remain the same. In both places—far apart in location but close in style—Milady has access to Fashion's newest whims. In the Pettis Apparel Shops— through the alertness of our Paris offices at 17 Rue de l ‘Echiquier —the gay modes of the moment are collected in an imposing array — so that the Miss and Matron of Indianapolis may select Spring Apparel with that subtle Paris touch—so universally desired. Deitis Dry Goods Co. The New York Store Established 1853 INDIANAPOLIS - - ad - - tad ~ INDIANA

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betrayed Their first conversation betrayed the fact that _ she was not fastidious T a distance she had appeared unusually neat, immaculate. But upon their first face-to- face meeting he discov- ered that her teeth were not clean. And he soon lost interest. So many people over- look this one matter of fastidiousness. And do so in spite of the fact that in conversation the teeth are the one most noticeable thing about you. Notice to-day how you, yourself, watch another person’s teeth when he or she is talking. Ifthe teet are not well kept they at once become a liability. Listerine Tooth Paste cleans teeth a new way. At last our chemists have discovered a polishing in- gredient that really cleans without scratching the enamel—a difficult prob- lem finally solved. You will notice the im- provement even in the first few days. And you know it ts cleaning safely. So the makers of Lister- ine, the safe antiseptic, have found for you also the really safe dentifrice. What are your teeth saying about you today ?— LAMBERT PHARM A- CAL CO., Saint Louis, U8. a4. LISTERINE TOOTH PASTE Large tube—25c

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130 This new brushing-surface ends surface-brushing THE bristles of this newly designed hair brush are arranged in grooves and ridges. That gives a wave-like brushing surface. Instead of passing carelessly over the hair, this brush divides the hair into even strands as it brushes, and reaches every hair in every strand. This is why the Pro-phy-lac-tic Stranzit Hair Brush has won the favor of so many beauty spe- cialists. It is designed from tip to tip for through- and-through brushing, with its slender frame, its easily-gripped handle, its long, springy, strong bristles. The Stranzit will win your favor too—with every stroke its sturdy bristles reach down to the scalp and stir up the vigorous life in the roots that shows itself in radiance and lustre in the hair. Florence Manufactur- ing Company, Florence, Massachusetts. Send for our attractive booklet, “A New Way to Brush Y our Hair,’’ which contains in- structions on the care of the © 1924, F. M. Co. Stranzit Hair Brush THE CHIC AMERICAN VOGUE SHOE (Continued from page 59) that are ready-made. Cannes, to be sure, cables of red or blue shoes, shoes that combine patent leather and black velvet, but the American mode rules out colour in the country or reduces it to a matter of very narrow piping in red, blue, or green dyed alligator on a white shoe. Of course, there are touches of lizard or alligator used as saddles or stnappings on real sports models, but this is a mere matter of tan on white— nothing that counts as colour when one considers Cannes. White kid is the new note in ready- made afternoon shoes for the country— often touched with black. Buckskin, of course, is still used, but kid is newer, and, since it may be cleaned very satisfactorily, it is a practical mode. Canvas has been revived, too, and makes a good inexpensive shoe, some- times trimmed with brown kid for the morning. The evening mode, as usual, is the most diversified. Paris speaks of satin slippers—embroidered, painted, bro- caded in silver or gold—of unbelievable richness. The new metal alligator brocades, previously mentioned, turn the dance floor into an Aladdin’s cave for very splendour. Ankle straps in coral or green beads twinkle below the shorter skirts of the moment with dazzling effect. All of these things have appeared or will shortly appear in New York. But the woman who must consider cost can not afford them, and, if she is wise, she will refuse to consider imitations of them. She chooses a simple satin shoe that matches a note of colour in her costume or affords a brilliant contrast. Brown satin shoes, still prime favourites, come in for a long look, too. And there are lovely brocaded sandals, trimmed lightly with silver coloured leather or left perfectly plain. Buckles, as has been said, must be small. And, if they are not real, they must at least look it. Rhinestones and cunning bits of rose coloured glass, if put together by the fingers of an expert, may do just as well as diamonds and rubies—to say nothing of leaving one’s dancing brains much freer from anxiety. STOCKINGS A word about stockings: the beige shades with a hint of red in them still turn all the avenues into the semblance of a bathing parade. The one thing to guard against is choosing a beige that blushes so deeply as to suggest that one has been inadvertently scalded. For grey or beige shoes, the smart woman buys stockings in the same colour, though of a slightly lighter shade. White or country shoes, however, have firmly eschewed the company of white stockings and go in for those of sun- burned tones. Indeed, if it were not for the white ribbed wool stockings worn for sports, there would not be a single snowflake in the stocking mode. White would be as obsolete as black! For the evening, the nude stocking i a I N of the moment has a good deal of apricot added to its pinkness. Some evening shoes, however, suggest a stocking thai almost matches, though, as usual, it halts just a fraction of a shade before the shoe. DESCRIPTIONS OF SHOES ON PAGE 57 On the left at the top of page 57 is : simple black leather walking shoe wit! perforated trimmings, fastening with a metal buckle at the side, that is the idea complement of the tailleur. Next to it i: an exquisite evening or dancing slippe: of black and gold brocade with a black satin heel and slender bands of black satin. A delightful variation of the plain black patent leather pump is the beautifully cut model at the right trimmed with stitchery across the top of the toe. The three models shown at the lower left on page 57 are designed for a variety of occasions. At the top is a slipper of unusual chic, of white kid with heel and strappings of patent leather; below it is a smart and emi nently practical sports shoe of whit linen with heel and bindings of brown leather; and, at the bottom, a slender pump all of white buckskin with a high French heel. On the opposite side, reading downward, are a grey suéde pump with an odd trimming of dull grey kid; a graceful beige suéde sandal with a heel and radiating strips of brown alligator; and a sturdy buckskin sports shoe with brown alligator strappings and sole and heel of corrugated rubber. DESCRIPTIONS OF SHOES ON PAGE 59 At the top on page 59 in the case, reading downward, may be seen a strapped walking shoe of tan suéde alligator and brown kid, with three straps, from I. Miller, which is very effective also in brown; a brown kid pump with two straps fastened with ~bronze buckles and a patent leather heel, from Cammeyer—also available in patent leather, black suéde, and white suéde; and a tan kid pump with dark brown trimmings and a _ high French heel, from I. Miller. Reading from top to bottom of the case at the lower left of the same page, the shoes are: a pump of grey kid, with a grey lizard heel and trimmings, from Hanan; an extremely smart Delman Oxford in beige suéde, with a Spanish heel covered in tan lizard and a lacing of tan gros- grain ribbon; and a well-cut, low-heeled walking shoe in black leather, held close to the foot by two straps over the instep, frora Andrew Alexander. The shelves in the case at the right are occupied by a very charming grey suéde pump, with narrow pipings and heel of grey kid, which may also be ob- tained in black suéde, from Cammeyer; a suéde Oxford in beige colour, with an alligator heel and trimmings, from Slater; and, last, a grey suéde walking shoe with hee! and trimmings of black lizard skin. trom Cammever. ci an ee Cae § (Continued from page 125) are his personal attorneys, his trusted friends, or the officers of his bank. The officers of a bank constitute a sort of perpetual committee with the good-will of the bank behind them, so that the risk of one man’s fraud or bad judgment is eliminated. The comment is, per- haps, superfluous—that a bank, as well as an individual, should be chosen with great care. It may be a matter of regret that a man can not retain control of his funds after his death, but psychical research still limps behind the other sciences, and no ouija-board has yet proved accurate. It is still necessary to trust some one else with your property after your lifetime. And, after all, the philos- ophy of trusts and trustees is not con- tained in the legal and technical defini- tions of those words, but rather in the dictionary definition which says that trust is synonymous with confidence, belief, faith, and hope.

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FE icot ling hat fo re April 15 Spring Apparel for Stout Women IMULTANEOUSLY with the exhibition of the success- ful modes in Paris, and on the Ave- nue, Lane Bryant’s reproductions appear. Each model artfully pro- portioned to adapt itself with slenderizing effect to the stout figure. Sizes 39 to 56 Bust. Outerwear Underwear Furs Millinery Shoes If unable to visit any of our stores, wriie to Dept. V2 for new Style Book. fane Hryant 26 W. 39th St., 21 W. 38th St., New York Hanover Pl. near Fulton Street, Brooklyn CHICAGO DETROIT Washington cor. Wabasa 1452 Farmer St. NEW YORK good stores MENTHE MELANGE Mixture 15 Mints Delightfully Refreshing oA. skilfully made Transformation eC . , willsolve your“ dress-up”’problem. It makes possible a charming coiffure at only a minute’s warning. Naturally distinguished, it is indistinguishable from your own hair. And what a rest for your own tortured locks! A Transformation by Considine, is truly a marvelous first aid to beauty. There are many advantages. Consult me; for twenty years I have been per- | fecting the art of the coiffure. Send for Booklet V ( | i MMIQUMNe 20 East 46th Street (\ Q New York City Phone , Sa oN ‘fe Murray Hill 4668 or 4669 wa ce and Flosieny” BILLIE — UECHELD CHARLES C SHELOON In Stage SUCCESS ~or Social Triumph HIS distinguished hair net plays its part in stage success and social triumph. Its pres- ence—though it can’t be seen — lends grace and charm and _ glorifies the hair! America’s leaders of fashion; actresses of note; women known for their beauty and charm — de- pend on this net as the first essential to smart coiffure effects. A sene from Billie Burke's wellknown = “The lntumate Strangers . Pe > At cAll Good Dealers PRICES—Cap or Fringe The Strong Single Strand . 10c Double Strand . . . 2 for 25 Gray or White. . - - - 20c Canadian Prices same as U.S. A. ainsborough Genuine HAIR NET The Net of the Life-Like Lustre CT he Largest Sellin Stair Net in O heWorl? The Western Co., Chicago—New York Weco Products Co., Limited, Toronto, Canada > wD

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132 Fashion Comfortable” -LWAYS Johansen has made stylish shoes—for 50 years! Now a wonderful comfort is added—the Feeture Arch, hidden cleverly in the light, graceful sole. Picture smart shoes, alternately rigzd and flexible as the foot demands with every step. Picture the Feeture-Fit Heel, snugly fitting your heel, never slipping, never gaping. Picture the newest styles in profusion. Picture the newest leathers, materials, colors and combinations You can see them at the nearest Johansen dealer’s. Write for his name and for free descriptive booklet, ‘‘Comfort Plus Style.” JOHANSEN BROS. SHOE CO. ST. LOUIS, MO. OHANSEN FEETURE ARCH SHOES WITH THE EEETURE-FIT HEEL “They Have Made Fashion Comfortable a Look for ( | Fapewee } \ feetureArch 4 A new Feeture Arch mode which cleverly combines satin, suede—and comfort! A dainty oxford of smart design for wear particu- larly with the tailleur, The Feeture-Fit Heel bolds your heel snugly. RIGID —when the weight of the body rests on the arch—and yet FLEXIBLE withevery movement of the foot. Some shoes ave rigid—and they are good shoes. Some shoes are flexible— and they are good. Johansen Feeture Arch shoes are both trade mark x z YTEB This black frock—two-piece in Fi ont, one-piece in back—of Rodier crépe-alga has black bitions sewed on in coloured or white silk WHILE THE this strange phenomenon as _ true: originality in dress almost automatically makes a woman démodée! After all, one must be of one’s own time, and never has this been truer than in 1924. To sum up the important points, I repeat what I said at the beginning of this article—that the tight, straight line still holds, but, on the part of almost all of the dressmakers, there is a more strongly marked effort to give us YTEB Brown kasha and crépe de Chine to match make this ensemble trimmed with tor- toise-shell buttons and ante- lope belt and pocket VOGUE BERNARD Black, white, and red plaid taffeta makes the skirt and trims the turned-up hem of the black silk alpaca tunic of this smart model MANNEQUINS PASS (Continued from page 43) fulness in the most varied forms; it seems to me that, this season, we are nearer to adopting it than we have ever been. But surprises are always in store for us when it comes to the mode. Prophecies are often lost in bottomless gulfs, so, at the beginning of each season, let us use as an epigraph at the head of our dissertations, that well- known phrase—“Qui sait?” jv 7. {pr @ eat o¢ OP & VL el ——£ tie | on f

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133

fpril 15 i ° . | e <P a NS Qa © Her Diary | oy APRIL 14TH

o witinly shew | Securely Bolted oduancd tote Um | in 30 Seconds \e NON « petiodat, {|The perfect wardrobe Admins & Simos trunk for touring. Keeps a dozen suits or dresses fresh tured - Stab sippy and smart as when you packed them! 4, Roudels Convenient trays and boxes for linens.

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oa Shoe pockets. Clamps to the running ae i i Seat board of any car in 30 seconds. Com- =] which 7 plete with cover and bolts. Can be car- wal dhe seid ; du. ai 4 ried to your room, Puilman or stateroom. At most good dealers, or write us S48 ot Sp Cra | AUTOROBE TRUNK CO, Raise PETERSBURG, VA. vighie.

Broocks Rogers Alfred Friend CRAFT sneer” AUTOROBE Narrow Hee AAAA toE ' : nn CE anne She. Sours Wararobe Srunk eps Pe wae ; | oo | |

Between 55th and 56th Sts. COMPARABLE VALUES Quality XXX Richelieu Pearls $50 to $300 are per- | fect reproductions of genuine Ceylon Oriental Pearls that cost $10,000 to $500,000.

ee Quality A Richeliew Pearls $35 to $150 are perfect reproductions of genuine Red Sea Pearls that cost from $5,000 to $200,000. reproductions of genuine Persian Gul’ Pearls «hat Quality B Richelieu Pearls $20 to $100. ere perfect cost from $2,000 to $100,000. Quality C Richelieu Pearls $15 to $35 are perfect reproductions of genuine Australian Gulf Pearls that | cost from $1,000 to $50,000. Quality PO Richelieu Pearls $10 to $20 are perfect reproductions of genuine South Sea Island Pearis that cost from $500 to $15,000.

Quality M Richelieu Pearls $5 to $10 are perfect reproductions of the genuine Bahama Pearls that cost from $250 to $5,000. nage | Every home on the shore | All Richelieu Pear! Qualities cue reproduce Pearls | from the rarest gems to those that are most fre- ‘6 ° -B 99 the “Egyptian-Bob" | | needs the ELCO Veedette Dicendaast ee

sate fg oo ing egret | —_ speedy, jaunty member of the Elco family | STACOMB to the attention of | | has all the advantages of a runabout, with the | sgn sls Aro hag weThes SS dine ee | addition of a comfortable cabin, with galley and | sae Sa-haiechail’ is etka cited oe fects a, ciel of deeming the | | lavatory, for protection in bad weather. ‘tee eens: hair. It supplies the lustrous Veedette, with her 15 mile speed, is an ideal boat ee ee ee pel a i not only for day cruising, bat for transporting the head as the fashion dictates. uests and their luggage, running to the village Controls all loose and stubborn for the mail, or across the bay for an afternoon wen A wiae?” tae olnee call—a dry, steady boat even in a rough sea. the shampoo, no matter how the At Port Elco you may inspect the entire line of hair is dressed. b Elco Standardized Models, from the 30 foot tn Aagthadeg — iiiead Veedette to the luxurious 56 foot Twin Screw For sale at all drug counters. Deck House Cruiser. Come and see them; or write Tubes—35c | for catalog and detailed specifications. Orders Jars —75c | should be placed early to insure prompt delivery. Send coupon for Free Trial Tube Correspondence should be addressed to ita. | PORT ELCO— Division of Sales and Exhibit 118 W. 18th St., New York City, N. ¥., Dept. 7N. 247 Park Avenue and 107 East 46th Street Please send me free trial tube. Tel. Vanderbilt 2329 NEW YORK CITY Name — THE ELCO WORKS, BAYONNE, NEW JERSEY Sie eeicadias akthanconccmnscedeicriacl | ‘aR 29 LER AOE TS SORIA LIIRNE RT ETT

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8M see seeeeses ee tt Seer in. 134 TR ea tases and FASHION | are friends again, COuE prim, wasp-waisted belle of 1870 would have been horrified at the modern girl’s uncorseted figure, her knickers and open-throated blouses, her sheer, low-topped, knee-free athletic underwear. For then it was the style to look hampered and uncomfortable, quite as today every ‘girl wants to look healthy and capable and at her ease. So Lady Sealpax Athletic Underwear is the natural choice of the modern girl for business and walking, tennis, golf, dancing and every strenuous activity. Lady Sealpax is so cool, scarcely touches one any- where; yet so soft to the touch, never sticky, crumpled or clinging in the hottest weather. And that blessed “freedom of the knees” and flatness on the hips and smoothness of tailored top and shoulder straps! Nainsook, batiste, handkerchief linen, voiles, silks--- there’s no end to Sealpax versatility. Always fresh and clean in the glassine wrapper. THE SEALPAX CO., Baltimore, Md. Also makers of Sealpax for Men, and Little Brother and Little Sister Sealpax for Children. Ms e ee ewer eneecesee -*@s, "= “®t” 2S S Lady : 'e, Ul REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. Calpax pre veces ee@@rtteetens weeot? ; a ® 3. wos0e* “eee” ° . ‘: DAINTY ATHLETIC UNDERWEAR YTEB Anethereal frock of chiffon printed with large red and bluish purple roses and made over a foundation of plain chiffon is representative of a series of summer evening gowns designed by this house FOUR TYPES OF NEW FROM WELL-KNOWN VOGUE EVENING GOWNS PARIS HOUSES REDFERN This evening gown, departing from the sheath type, has a cuiras of pink and silver lamé embroidered with bead roses. The skirt has a narrow train and alternating panels of black tulle and satin MODELS FROM LENIEF Gold lamé is used for this gown with a loose bloused bodice, but without trimming except for a border of dull red and old-blue sulk and a large, soft bow on one hip A new “laize”—an embroidery of metal, silk, and wool—in orange, blue, and gold is combined with gold lamé in this gown. The skirt is of “laize” panels over gold Ap i} somes ——f ors a

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TURE GA pril 15

X32 Grey Bromley Jersey For general utility wear Bromley Jersey Frocks $25.00 No wardrobe is complete without one. Made to individual measure- ments of quality jersey. They do not hugthe figure. Detachable collar and cuffs. Shipped same day order is re- ceived. In white- $30.00 Sent prepaid to any address in the U. S., or Canada plus duty. Descriptive folder and sar ples onrequest. Sold from: Coast to Coast. Designed and made exclusively by Bromley-Shepard Co., Inc. For over eighteen vears designers and makers of exclusive clothes for women, Do not confuse with other firms. Lowell, Mass. Boston Shop: 406 Boylston St.

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Butlers’ Outfits

(Left). Butler’s coat, vest and trousers for day wear. Made of durable broad- cloth in black, blue greenor claret. $50-65-75 (Right). The cor- rect dress for the butler in the eve- ning. Made in the same material and colors as suit shown opposite. $50-65-75 Booklet showing correct styles, together with chart and measurement forms, will be forwarded on request Built Brothers BROADWAY at 49th STREET - NEW YORK CITY

Laer

Toy the Unusual Geudoir~ 3. | Dolly Madison Ged Spreads I fOR the bedroom that whispers of intimate individuality there is no, more subtle expression than found in the decorative effects of Dolly Madison’ Bed Spreads and Crinkle Cigth. Only in Dolly Madison can you find the popular, crinklea solid-color .. and iridescent effects as well as the dainty stripes. Dolly Madison Bed Spreads and Crinkle Cloth wash easily and require no ironing. Always look for the-Dolly Madison label. _ Ne spreadhis genuine without it

Write for free & S, illustrated hooklét >> GEORGE ROYLE 6:-CO., Mfrs.;Philadelphia Dol SANT L = Posing and Furniture — Exskir th Car

DOLLY(@)MADISON

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| SAMUEL WARD MANUFACTURING CO

elect Paper that Reflects Yourself as Truly as does Your Mirror - > ~ b tare writing paper is just like

a mirror to the people who receive your letters. It reflects you. It reflects your personality and your good taste. This being true, as every woman knows, it pays to choose a writing paper capable of giving a truthful reflection of your personality. For this reason, thousands of women of good judgment are now using Club Parchment. Wonderful new parchment finish Crus Parchment has a wonderful surface on which it is a great pleasure to write. It is a paper of great beauty, with a clean, pleasing crispness and a delightful air of refinement—a socially correct at- mosphere that is unmistakable. Sizes to suit your individual! taste. Choice of white or gray plain edge, deckle edge, silver lace edge or gold lace edge. Send for circular THousanps of men and women are perfectly satisfied to let Club Parchment be the paper which reflects their good taste and their personality. As it does credit to them, it will also do credit to you. Ask for it at stationery, drug and department stores. If you cannot find it in your neighborhood, send direct to us for interesting circular and name of nearest dealer. 299 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass. Manufacturers of Ward’s A-Line-A-Day Books circhment

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QYYIOVWVIWIWVOIMOOMYVOLY Sonora~one of the famous musical instruments of all times IPPC CCIE p 2 (ip = % qed i BN Vy iy | jin) | lee it i Ws j) ft AWY 4 ON » Wiliam and Mary IKE that enchanted Harp which (according to the old legend) played lovely music no matter who touched its golden strings, the Sonora Phono- graph gives its superb performance for the ama- teur as well as for the musician born. The William and Mary model illustrated is a particularly happy expression of Sonora refinement and charm. Other Sonora Phonographs from $60 to $3000 Good dealers everywhere Sonora Phonograph Co., Inc. New York THE INSTRUMENT OF QUALITY ON0TS CLEAR AS A BELL THE MODE VOGUE THE TAILLEUR DEMANDS ACCESSORIES TO MATCH REDFERN A beige woollen overcoat—an exact copy of one worn recently in Paris by the Prince of Wales— has pearl buttons, a short belt in back, and a suéde hat to match PHILIPPE ET GASTON Roman stripe taffeta is combined with navy-blue rep to make this costume. The skirt is cut into panels over an underskirt of the striped fabric. The hat, parasol, and scarf display the stripe MADELEINE ET MADELEINE The simple tailleur of black Rodier poplaga, a heavy alpaca, decorated only with stitching, has a white piqué blouse with the old-fashioned stock appropriate with this mode BERNARD Bernard shows the strict tailleur. This double-breasted model of brown alpaca with a hair-line of black is bound with black silk braid round the edges of the coat and simple lapped-over skirt

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CATA April r5§ Reduce Your Flesh with Dr. Walter’s Rubber Reducing Garments HE entire body, Or any part, can be reduced without dieting by dissolving the fat through perspira- tion. They are in- valuable to those suffering from rheumatism. Reducing Corset In dark or cream colored rubber, reduces abdomen, hips, thighs and waist Wes. « See Brassiere . $7.00 Neck ana Chin Reducer $3.50 Chin Reducer $2.50 Anklets, for reducing and shaping Reducing Corset Send waist and hip measurements the ankles. cain Send ankle® | measurement. § Per pair $7.00 Extra high y. $9 Bandeau Neck and Chin Reducer Send for my illustrated booklet Dr. Jeanne B. Walter 389 Fifth Avenue, New York Near 36th St., Suite 605 Philadelphia— Washington— Mary Kammerer Gibson Co., Inc. 221 South 11th St. 917 G Street, N. W. Chicago— San Francisco— Buck & Rayner Adele Millar 26 South State St. 229 Post St. i FRANK BROTH Fifth Avenue Boot Shop Between 47% and 48th Street s. New York, ERS Ga tloze Daisy Gwin & trap with Spanish heel White Kid) Fawn Suede Hotel Tate Arca e Building with Baby Box heel ) Fawn Ooze ‘ $20.00 tan leather trim | $22.00 Gray Buckskin } Gray Suede | al gray leather trim | WASHINGTON EXHIBIT cxcsgo ? loodwar. opp. voples Trust & Savin Shoreham Hot og S HOPS Bank Bldg. nse NEW HAVER, ST LOUTS PITTSBURGH Jenkins Arcade We have no agencies-Our Shoes are sold in our own Shops only J Lump Do You Know NEW YORK? New York isn’t just the big shops on the Avenue. New York is also the small shops—with _ personality, unique merchandise, and the chance to look around without being crowded. Vogue publishes a little group of announcement cards in each 15th of the month issue, telling you something about these places, under the heading of The Shops of VOGUE Study these pages. Shop from them by mail. Then, when you come to New York, look them up. g VOGUE Visiting The ultimate in convenience fo rather cumbersome box. to protect the faces of the tiles. the trays are tilted—there is no jure the tiles. seal, $15.00. Or finished Write for literature, or se desired, if your dealer does the increasingly popular Mah Jong parties is to be had in this smart leather case—light, compact, extremely good looking—that is fast supplanting the present It will hold any set—ample space being provided, too, for all types of money. Trays are lined with green felt Fitted with a neat brass lock and finished in black polychrome art leathers, $20.00. faction GUARANTEED or MONEY REFUNDED. DEALERS—Correspondence is invited J Hesvently Twins | CesE ERED r carrying your set to They slide out when dumping to jar or in- in red, green, blue and nd check specifying case not handlethem. Satis- | Ginaitcren Civse Chttenity Cincinna Qvio Bathe your Face with Pure Herb Sachets ie have a beautiful skin, creamily smooth and ra- diantly clear, use La Perle des Sachets. The sachets are little bags of pure herbs, one of which should be squeezed into your ablution water every morning. It changes the hardest and most calcareous water into a milkily rich solution—a soothing, beautifying face wash. It also clears a blotched, reddened skin and heals sun- burn. Box of 25 sachets, $4.25. In conjunction with the sachets, it is especially beneficial to use Seve Dermale, a vivifying, strengthening tonic which puts new life and elasticity into sagging muscles. $2.50. By mail from V. Darsy or at the following shops: Boston: Caroline T. Peabody, 551 Boylston Street. San Francisco: White House; Darsy Salon de Jeunesse, 358 Sutter Street. The latter shop is authorized to give complete Darsy treatments. Visit the Salon for French Facial Treatments Write for booklet and questionnaire V. DARSY 17-V West goth St. New York 54 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, Paris iz es At the Darsy Sa- lon, superfluous hair ts eradicated by an expert who practices that same lightness of touch and sanitary care for which the Darsy Facial Treat- ments are famous. If you cannot call at the Salon, send for home treatment, suf- ficient for several applications. With full directions, $4. Style and Comfort for all active occasions either sport or domestic is the pleasing combination assured you when you choose as 99 9 LUE Ly Featherbone Girdle No. 4070 Cut in even sizes—22 to 32 waist A specially woven fabric made for wear. Resilient elastic inserts assuring ease and grace—and Featherbone to give the necessary firmness—are a few of its special features which appeal to the woman who, though seeking comfort, insists on style. Ask for it by name in your leading local stores The flat back is a noteworthy feature of “Warren’s” Featherbone Girdle We will be glad to send you this new model, pre- paid, in case you are unable to find it locally, on receipt of $2.00. Give waist measure. General Offices and Factories Three Oaks, Michigan New York San Francisco Chicago Toronto

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Peele ai gi talieataeetrmwee een a aes ee odie ee eel aa 24. The Chapters in VOGUE’S Book of Etiquette . Introduction—Origin of Manners The Code of Etiquette Insiders and Outsiders Who are the Best People? The Vulgarity of Pretence . General Behaviour Conduct in the Street Good Manners in Shops Don'ts for Office Life . General Behaviour Restaurant, Theatre, Opera At Home as a Host Abroad as a Guest Dress for Various Occasions Perfect Dressing Cothes for Town and Country A Comfortable Wardrobe for a Woman The Clothes Men Need Introductions and Suggestions for Meetings and Partings How Introductions are Made Greetipgs and Farewells The Introduction by Letter . Conversation and Character The Object of General Conversation “Turning the Conversation” The Common Sense Basis of Popu- larity Speech and its Vulgar Refinements “Well-bred English” Common Misprnounciations Too Ornamental Language Letter Writing as an Art and a Necessity The Welcome Letter Good Taste in Letter-Paper Business Correspondence 10. Invitations and their Responses Formal and Informal Invitations Procuring an Invitation for a Friend Recalling Invitations 11. Entertaining Breakfasts, Lunches . Teas. When They Are Necessary Dinners, Large, Small, and Various Suppers 12. Table Service and Manners Setting the — Serving the Dinner The foundation of Good Table ad nw _ @ bo] - » Manners ae Discussed Questions of Table Eti- quette 13. Dances, Balls, and Parties in General Cotillions and Present-Day Dances Managing Evening Entertainments Subscription Dances Visiting and Leaving Cards _ Disappearance of Formal Visiting Form and Engraving of Visiting-Cards How Cards are Used 15 Town Households and Servants Organization of the Household Governesses, Social Secretaries, and Housekeepers Duties and Dress ot Servants 16. Country Life and Visits Country Life of To-day Week-end Visits luxuries of the Spare Bedroom Obligations of Hosts and Visitors 17. Games and Sports at Home and in Clubs History of Games | Good Sportsmanship Town and Country Clubs Suggestions for Games and Sports . The Exigencies of Travel Need for Adaptability Steamer, Train, Motor, and Aero- plane Travel | Standards of Tipping 19. The Birth in the Family Gifts for the Baby and Mother The Christening Ceremony Notes to Guests and Godparents 20. First Steps in Good Manneis Conduct at Table Rewards and Punishments Nurses and Nursery Routine Clothes for Children . The Child Growing Up. Importance of Reciprocity Between Age and Youth The Boy in School Years Young People’s Parties Bringing Out the Daughter Preparation for Society Chaperonage The Debutante’s Parties 14. be J) 4 N 23. The Unmarried Man in Society Small Politenesses Civilities Expected from a Man Bachelor’s Parties The Hall-Marks of a Gentleman Engagements and Their Conse- quences Parental Interviews TheiAnnouncementofan Engagement Social Amenities The Trousseau - Weddings Invitations The Church Wedding The House Wedding The Wedding Breakfast orReception. - Brides of Different Ages The Woman of Thirty The Divorced Woman The Elderly Widow Suitable Costumes for Brides Family Manners Simple Things that Promote Good Feeling in Families Respect for Privacies and Possessions Harmony Between Husband and Wife . Disagreements and Divorce Mixed Family Relations at Weddings A Divorced Woman's Nameand Rings Avoiding Criticism in a Divorce - Funerals and Mourning Expressions ot Condolence and Their Acknowledgements The Funeral Service Mourning Attire - Conventions of Official Washington ppeeroouese with White House ormal Visiting in Washingto | Official Precedence — Dinner: Customs . Etiquette in Other Countries ae Royalty | Tritish eerage, Baronet Chief Officials a prsenntation at Court rincipal Orders of Knighthood - The Final Test of Breeding MTT Ul i il 7 Ii] HHH ] | cc ccc VOGUE’S Book of Etiquette Present day customs of social intercourse, with the rules for their correct observance $4.00 panne two years ago, Vogue felt that manners had altered so radically not merely in form but in spirit, that it was timely to review the whole subject, and codify present-day good usage in convenient and authoriative form. Vogue’s “essays in etiquette,” published serially in Vogue during the past eighteen months, were the beginning of such a codification Vogue’s Book of Etiquette,” now being published, is the crystallization of it, containing the original essays, with much additional material. con- veniently classified. Vogue’s Book of Etiquette represents the letter and the spirit of good manners as approved by people of breeding and tradition. To know the letter of good manners is part of Vogue’s daily routine Vogue has always represented the supreme authority in America on all approved forms of social usage: changing formalities in correspon- dence, permissible innovations in weddings, modified seedlings in mourning, altered usage in entertaining, and thousands of other nice points. The spirit of good manners is part of Vogue’s tradition. Thirty years ago, Vogue was founded by ladies and gentlemen for ladies and gentle- men, and ever since its founding it has been edited by members of the inner circle for the group of people whom they and their friends know. Vogue’s tradition, therefore, is the tradition of good breeding; its knowledge is the knowledge of the cultivated world: and its de. nouncements on where the conventions of society must be maintained and where they may be relaxed in the flux of this modern era are the pronouncements supported by the best authority, In Vogue’s Book of Etiquette, the original essays have been i amplified. Additional points have haa taken i More Ee of correct usage have been quoted. Engraved illustrations of social forms have been included. The book has been beautifully set in type, and enriched with headbands and initials in colour. A dignified and handsome volume Royal octavo, cloth, 530 pages, $4 postpaid. Vogue, 19 West 44th Street, New York City Please send me one copy of Vogue’s Book of Etiquette. I enclose $4. Mrs. EET, SOT” PEE OR, Baars Gis Evocme aty BS ery PATER RAEN AETIOR Aha nt9 0s Sab ane ehemenne ee a UE ReAhibNebieh wxbininnsrebekid eid book State (ap ded wake ke ee wale tee e eee. HGag-2g NTTTITTTUTTE 1 A ccc ccc = | ~_ man ma ie A UhULPhLP)

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Thousands of stout persons have testified to the wonderful results obtained from DAINTY-FORM reducing cream, and in view of this we feel perfectly safe in urging every stout person, man or woman, to try EVELYN NEVILLE’S TY Dain Form Fat Reducing Cream Results Guaranteed or Money Back DAINTY-FORM will eliminate fat at any part of the face, hands and body—-quickly, safely, and permanently. Endorsed by physi- cians—its use requires no dieting, starving or medicines. DAINTY-FORM will be sent direct to your home in plain wrap- per upon receipt of $2.00 the jar or $3.50 for the double size. Dass fos Guo Dept. 224 15 W. 34th St., New York City

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Ben Lewis 2313 Broadway New York

The originality of the Spring Tailleur is beautifully enhanced by the debonair grace and daintiness one finds in these striking new footwear creations. The ‘‘ADA”’ is a dapper pump with an individuality all itsown. Lizard Trim models in Patent Colt, Grey,Tan Bark and Airedale Suede, All Black Satin, White Kid, also Black Suede with Patent Trim. Low & High Heels. $16 00 The ‘‘BRIAR’’—strictly new in theme and feminine distinction, charmingly setting off the masculinity of one’s Spring apparel. Patent, Lizard Trim Grey Suede Lizard $13.50 Trim $14.00 Black Calf Lizard Beige Suede Lizard Trim 13.50 Trim 14.00 Tan Calf Lizard Norwegian Grain Trim 13.50 Calf 13.50 Prompt Attenticn to Mail Orders, Send for Style Portfolio

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[N coloring her hair, every woman realizes that its shade must be in harmony with the rest of her appearance. The color must suit her individual- ity; otherwise she will suffer the disappointment and humiliation of having } | hair obviously dyed. The new American In- ecto Rapid, Notox, is spe- cifically guaranteed to color in I§ minutes gray, faded or streaked hair to any desired natural shade; and color it permanently. Inecto Rapid, Notox, comes in 18 distinct shades, from radiant blonde to raven black. One of these will meet the requirements of any woman desiring to im- prove her appearance. The re- sults from any of the shades can- not be distinguished from Na-

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The Crystal Pure Deodorant | Sparkling and clear, this liquid de- odorant is a delight to use. It is color- less and odorless. It will not stain or injure the most delicate fabrics. It cannot harm the most sensitive skins; apply it at any time. People of refinement and fashion use The Deodorant Each drop performs its duty and then vanishes, leaving the skin cool and re- freshed and at the same time assur- ing you of freedom from perspiration odors for many hours. Ask for Dew by name at all toilet goods counters and druggists. It comes in dainty crystal bottles, sev- eral months’ supply, at 50 cents. You may purchase it direct if you desire. : Geo. C. V. Fesler Company 4173 Olive Street - St. Louis, Mo.

Se EE RES microscope. ture’s coloring, even under the

! At last . .. a standardized version! LAWSof MAH JONG (Pung Chow, etc.) for 1924 As proposed for the American Game R. F. FOSTER A handy pocket pamphlet of 36 pages, containing a simplified and standardized Code of Laws for Playing and Scoring. This system of scoring and playing has been accepted for the American game by the majority of good players. Sent, post free, for 25 cents. Orderfrom the Mah Jong Editor, Vanity Fair, 19 West 44th St., New York

Hair colored by Inecto Rapid, Notox, is colored permanently. It will neither rub off nor be changed in any way by sunlight, shampooing, salt water, Russian or Turkish baths, nor by per- manent waving or any other form of hair treatment. Inecto Rapid, Notox, is guar- anteed, too, to preserve the beauty and lustre of the hair. It contains no para phenaline diamene, and in no way affects the texture or growth of the hair. The thousands of hairdressing shops from Coast to Coast using Inecto Rapid, Notox, endorse it unreservedly. In New York it is used in the ultra-fashionable shops at the Hotels Biltmore, Pennsylvania, Commodore, Wal- dorf-Astoria, and the Knicker- bocker. Every woman who is not com- pletely satisfied with the color and texture of her hair should

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ee ne eee eee ee aa toe Se es " CHOCOLATES ]} Even the Casual Offering May Have Distinction So send Johnston’s OU can give her “something Its distinctiveness will please her. different,’ no matter what the | Where good taste must be shown, gift. Incandy,letitbe JOHNSTON’s | Johnston’s Choice Box is the CHOCOLATES. The Choice Box, | gift sans reproche. Each piece perhaps, with its 22 different kinds | of chocolate offers her its sweet- of candies, will suit herevery whim. | ness in a new and delectable form. You will find an authorized Johnston’s Candy Department in one of the better stores in your neighborhood. ROBERTA. JOR NSTOM COMPANY, MILWAUKEE ces EERE REET E ERO EEE SH HTE SOSH SESE DE DEES Sa ih teste. eee eiaietie mat tak ee he ee et LE te Ne i ee i Nt ie ta tie a a eee Ree

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» aie on Arnone ii mays ss asinine ities poh, in mais Se etait Pils a en Messen, nse selena enema oe ip eS eke Pa ey = i sa RO A ett ae in a. ale Nene ee es ‘eo * ERA ‘i | Gael am song oe aon TRE Rie ees, SEE Small section of Ox- ford Cross NetCur- tain in actual size stowing the general character of the net. 5 } es | a) | Sy FRR reer, cick ertentnsash om ih Curtain Your Windows The use of a touch of color is the latest vogue in window curtaining. It may be a golden tone to give the room a cheerful, sunny character even on sunless days. Or it may be a coloring characteristic of the furnishings—a touch of blue to give the colonial feeling to colonial furnishings or architecture. But there is one thing it must not be—it must not be so obvious as to make the windows a patch- work of color when seen from the street. Curtains of Oxford Cross Net in the sunshine coloring give added per- sonality to this living room of Mr. and Mrs. Richard T. Wilson’s New York residence. Mr. Wilson is a brother of Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, Mrs. Ogden Goelet, and the late CAUTION A glass curtain is subjected to a burning, as well as a fading, action of the sun. Therefore anet (or lace) curtaining should be selected, since lace is a “three thread” fabric, with each warp and weft tied (or knotted) by a bobbin thread. Moreover Quaker Lace is made of firm long-staple thread, specially tested against the sun’s burn- ing action. Lady Herbert. With Sunproof Sunshine In short, it must be a touch, not a splash of color. And of course it must be sunproof. (Note that we say “sunproof,” not merely sun- fast; see caution above.) There are several new Quaker Craft Lace Cur- tainings meeting these requirements, the most favored being Oxford Cross Net, in Sunshine color or a combination of sunshine and old rose or blue; Sunshine Casement; and Colonial Filet Net in sunshine or colonial blue—all both sun- proof and tubproof. A Booklet That Will Help You Booklet “Concerning Window Draperies” will be sent free if you mention the name of the best retailer handling window draperies in your city or shopping center. Otherwise enclose 10 cents in stamps. Lace Works and Accounting Rooms: 4th STREET & LEHIGH AVENUE PHILADELPHIA QUAKER LACE COMPANY Wholes le Salesrooms: BROADWAY, COR. 19th STREET NEW YORK

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‘Your Perfume Should Be “Becoming” You choose a hat or frock for its becom- ingness. You select it because its style exactly suits you—brings out your best features — makes you appear more charming. Your perfume should be as individually becoming as your loveliest gown. You should select it just as carefully. Clothes are soon forgotten, but a perfume may linger in the memory for years. How important it is to have this memory a flattering one. Florient, an exquisite bouquet fragrance, has a happy way of blending with widely varying personalities — seeming to take on a new meaning with each wearer. Or you may find your favorite among other lovely Colgate scents. It is easy to select the right perfume with the Colgate Perfume Test. This famous test has shown countless women how to choose the perfume that suits them best. Full instructions and materials, for making the test, including three miniature vials of perfume, will be sent you for a 2c stamp. Address Colgate & Co., Dept. 45, 199 Fulton Street, New York City COLGATE Perfumes

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