Vogue 1923-12-01: Vol 62 Iss 11

Page 1

(CHRISTMAS GIFTS -” / umber~

Page 2

YOU JUST KNOW SHE WEARS THEM When the Christmas gift is to be silk hosiery, one chooses McCallum because the name is accepted everywhere as the mark of supreme quality and the / AAAS Ce I] last word in good style. From $2.50 to $100 the pair. | ~ alum Silk Hosiery The McCallum de luxe book illustrates the styles of silk hosiery that we make. We will post one to you on request. McCallum Hosiery Co., Northampton, Mass.

Page 3

December 1 f 1 —— a 6 zal Women vs. men! If the average woman takes more steps every day than the average man, the mascu- line foot walks harder. Since hosiery must now of necessity be raiment % of elegance, it is equally imperative ¥ that it also possess great wearability. : % C/ eo AS Sturdiness! Phoenix has become the standard hosiery of the world for men, women and children, because of the elegance it furnishes over long and strenuous miles. Its 3 masculine and feminine hosiery are alike in their ability to resist wear. PHOENIX g@ HOSIERY WZ | MILWAUKEE Ss

Page 4

Franklin Simon 8 Co, Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Sts., New York

“SHED 7 Model 12—Traveling Clock, sterling silver with black stripes, luminous dial. 28.00 Model 13—Powder Vanity and Lip Stick Holder; 14K solid green gold. 62.00 Model 14A—New Sterling Silver Vanity for rouge and powder. 12.00 Model 15—W omen’s Cigarette Case, sterling silver; stripes of 14K solid green and red gold. 25.00 Model 16—Men’s Leather Belt, attached to two 14K solid green gold rings. 25.00 Model 17—Men’s Sterling Silver Cigarette Case; 14K solid green gold stripes. 30.00 Model 18—Double Cigarette Case of black moire silk; satin stripes, four mountings of 14K solid green gold. 10.00 Model 19—V anity Case, 14K solid green gold, with two compartments and mirror. 210.00 Model 20—Set of 6 Sterling Silver Cups and funne!, <n black or tan leather case. 10.00 Model 21—Men’s Shirt Studs, vest buttons and cuff links in real black onyx, platinum edged front; 14K solid gold back. 79.00 Model 22—Men’s Three-Piece Evening Set; Bill Fold, Card Case and Cigarette Case, of black satin striped moire, heavy mountings of 14K solid gold. 40.00 Model 22a—Same three-piece set in Dull Black Pin Seal Leather. 40.00

Girt SHop—Street Floor

Entire Contents Copyrighted, 1923,by Franklin Simon &Co. Inc,

VOGUE VOGUE is published on the first and fifteenth of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., 19 W. 44th Street, Vol. No. 62, Ne. ft New York. SUBSCRIPTIONS for the United States, Canada, Porto Rico, Hawaii and the Philippines $5.00 a year in 228 December !, 1923 advance. Entered as second class matter February 16, 1910, at the Post Office, New York, under act of March 3, 1879. Whole No. |

Page 5

December 1 —— co ee St Charge Accounts Solicited Jranklin Simon 8 Co, Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Streets, New York FROM THE GIFT SHOP Model 1—Platinum and Diamond Wrist Watch; 24 diamonds with real onyx. 17 jewel guaranteed movement. 225.00 Model 2—Real jade Bead Bracelet with carved jade pendant; 18K solid white gold chain; open work links. 24.50 Model 3—Satin Striped Black Moire Ciga- rette Case with 14K gold mountings and mono- gram plate; holds fullcarton of 2ocigarettes. 12.00 Model 4—Black enamel on 1 4K solid green gold Powder Vanity and Lip Stick Holder. 165.00 Model 5—18K Solid White Gold Bracelet Watch; engraved bezel and back; 17 jewel guaranteed movement. 30.00 Model 6—Men's 14K solid green gold Wrist Watch with English pigskin strap. 16 jewel guaranteed movement. 55.00 Model 7— Flexible Bracelet, engraved platinum top on 14K solid green gold back, openwork design. 40.00 Model 8—14K Solid Green Gold Pencil; clip and perpetual calendar. 40.00 Model 9—F olding Pocket Comb in 14K solid green gold case; engine turned design. 35.00 Model 10—Men’s 14K solid green gold com- bination Pencil and Knife; engine turned design. 25.00 Model11—1 4K Solid Green Gold Chain Bracelet with black enamel bars, strung with either real crystal, oxblood coral, carnealian or onyx beads. 25.00 The Christmas Gift Book will be mailed upon request Entire Contents Copyrighted, 1923, by Franklin Simon &Co , Inc.

Page 6

How many women do you know who have too many silk stockings? Few Christmas lists contain the names of such fortunate people. Most of us welcome with delight the gift of a box of silk stock- ings, especially when the good taste of the giver has selected stockings just a trifle finer than the ordinary. Such stockings are the “Onyx”, with lace clocks pictured above. They are so beautifully made that people of the most exacting taste find in them the solution of their Christmas gift problem. Most department stores and specialty shops carry “Onyx”. “Onyx’’ Hosiery Inc. Wholesale New York

Page 7

December 1 60—Imported Spanish shawls hand embroidered in beautiful colorings on crepe silk grounds,f ringed borders 79.00 to 350.00 BONWIT TELLER &, CO, dictiaietgtie tues FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™ STREET, NEW YORK 61— Bandeau of indestructible pearl studded with bril- lants backed with flexible ivory . . . - 32.00 62—“‘Bontell” gloves of finest quality French glace kidskin, 20-button length 8,50, 16-button length 7,00 63—Evening bag of fine gold filled “baby’’ mesh with jewel studded frame and clasp, link chain, 4 inches wide across frame, 6inchesdeep . . . 32.00 64— Imported powder box of genuine colored enamelon sterling silver gilt. . : ‘ : . : 15.00 65—Imported pure linen handkerchief with real Val. Jace edge, hand drawn work and hand embroidery 2,50 66—Slipper buckles in black, steel or bronze . 10,50 67—“‘Bontell” nude or silver sheer all silk hose 2.95 68— Back comb for new low head dress in wing effect of demi-shell outlined with —— or emerald, jewel studded center ° ‘ ° . 10.50 69— Ostrich fan, three curved and two straight plumes, shell or amber sticks, Jade, rouge or tango . 15.00 70—Godet’s ‘‘Jasmin’’, an exquisite odor in urn-shaped flacon ° : . . . : . ‘ 12.00 71—Bangle bracelets, studded with rong, sapphire, topaz, emerald or jet color stones. : 5.00 72—Necklace of faceted crystal beads with jet rondelles, jet with crystal, all topaz or all jet, 30in. long . 7.50 73—Imported earrings of marcasite set in sterling silver 22.00 74—Imported earrings with real onyx or crysophrase hoop mounted in sterling silver and marcasite 18.50 75—“‘Bontell” glove silk opera vest in flesh color 2,95 The Gift Book—A hand- somely illustrated book that solves all gift problems— mailed upon request.

Page 8

THE WELL KNOWN SECRET T was Peggy’s birthday party and the two girls were add- ing the last touches before going down stairs. Peggy was radiant at an age when birthdays are still an asset and Janice was a bewitching figure from the fillet of silver leaves which bound her amber hair, to her slender, silken ankles and satin pumps. She gazed at Peggy in admiration. orchid!” she exclaimed. “But—” “But what?” demanded Peggy. “Where are your new dancing slippers?” Peggy was rueful. “Oh, they’re stunning but I can’t keep them from slipping up and down and blistering my heels. “You’re lovely in A smart Ped-e-mode with the support and comfort of an Oxford. In satins, leathers and combinations in all the newest shades. I’m going to have my shoes made to order from now on— it’s the only way!” “You foolish child. I have the most difficult foot to fit and I’ve never had a shoe made-to-measure in my life. | have a wisp of a triple-A heel and toes as broad as a French peasant’s and I get fitted without any difficulty at all. And you know Lola had a lot of trouble with weak arches until she got Ped-e-modes. She says they exercise her feet and keep them in wonderful condition.” “T know—she’s worn them for years! I wish I had taken her advice instead of getting those others—but tomorrow downtown I go and get fitted!” This graceful strap pump comes with a sturdy walking heel. In combinations of fine leathers or satin in all wanted shades. He demo de ‘smn coxuaueer»eer”,a>#?te O 510 Fifth Avenue, New York Shoes for Women Write us for style book —no charge JULIUS GROSSMAN, INC. BROOKLYN, N. Y. Ped-e-modes are shown exclusively in the shops listed below: F. E. Foster & Co. Caspari & Virmond Co. Nicollet Booterie, Inc. Kansas City, Mo. Milwaukee, Wis. Minneapolis, Minn. Thomas Kilpatrick Co. Knight Shoe Co. City of Paris Dry Goods Co. Omaha, Neb. Portland, Ore. San Francisco, Cal. Kerr Dry Goods Co. Robert I. Cohen, Inc. Oklahoma City, Okla. Galveston, Texas Joseph Horne Co. Ernst Kern Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. Detroit, Mich. Higbee Co. Cleveland, O. Jacobs Bros. New Orleans, La. Phelps Shoe Store Shreveport, La. F. E. Foster & Co. Chicago, ill. L. Bamberger & Co. Newark, N. J. Seymour Sycle Richmond, Va. Clement & Co. Springfield, Mass. Pedemode, Inc. New York City S. C. Lauber Toledo, Ohio

Page 9

UE til peek ‘ol A ele

{

December 1 =I

Oh py <4 i. ¢ AH, ; HY + Wye ? ih: Sire!” | Ok Ay) % Te uy! +¥ ,

a—Corselette brassiere of Skinner's satin brocade, fastening at the side, show- ing elastic side inserts for a smooth, perfect fit. Pink, black.... 3.95 b—Genuine Irish, filet and Calais laces intermingle in lovely patterns in a heavy crepe de Chine chemise. Pink, orchid, peach, ree 5.00 c—Charming nightgown of silk broadcloth trimmed with genuine filet lace and fine tucks. Pink, orchid, peach...... 6.95 d—Matching Step- in Chemise........ 3.95 e—The French manner of adorning heavy crepe de Chine nightgowns with double-hemstitched folds of self-material at neck and sleeves. Pink, orchid, peach...... 5.50 FIFTH AVENUE inf The Christmas At Extremely Low Prices f—The feminine in paja- mas—of heavy silk broad- cloth, trimmed with dou- ble folds of self-material edged with ecru Val. lace. Peach, pink, orchid, a avs erases 9.75 g—-Excellent quality radi- um silk chemise, finely tailored and trimmed with hemstitching and rib- bon buds. Pink, ae ae 3.95 h—The smart combina- tion of genuine Irish lace, Val. lace, fine tucking and dainty buds fashion this nightgown of heavy silk crepe de Chine. Pink, orchid or peach 8.95 i—Generously cut bloom- ers of pink silk broadcloth trimmed with dainty Val. lace and buds. 2.95

Book of Gift Suggestions and New Winter Fashions Gladly Sent Upon Request AT 37TH STREET Stewart & Co. PARIS Correct Apparel tor Women &Misses NEW YORK

Page 10

IRIS Sleeveless, but with the neckline of girlishness, this dance frock of crépe chiffon is incomparably lovely. Beads of crystal and pearl alternate to form the yoke and girdle and to border the skirt. These same beads in a cycle motif are edged with ermine tails to adorn the skirt. Soft chiffon drapes fall from clusters of ermine tails at either side of the girdle and the colors you may choose from are coral, white, maize and French blue. Sizes 14 to 20, inclusive, $39.50. Abraham & Straus Inc. Brooklyn, N. Y. L. S. Ayres & Company Indianapolis, Ind. L. Bamberger & Co. Newark, N. J. Bullock’s 4 Los Angeles, Cal. The Dayton Company Minneapolis, Minn. The Emporium San Francisco, Cal. Wm. Filene’s Sons Company Boston, Mass. B. Forman Co. Rochester, N. Y. Joseph Horne Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. © 1923, by R. R. A. MARIGOLD A veritable débutante’s dream is this frock of chiffon velvet and glinting metal lace. A row of the modish ermine tails joins the velvet basque to the skirt which has just the cor- rect bouffant effect, while metal lace ripples its way down the front and concludes the skirt! Apple green with gald lace, American beauty with gold lace, black with silver lace, white with silver lace, and jade with gold lace, 14 to 20, inclusive, $39.50. JASMINE A bit more sophisticated of line is this beguiling little dinner, dance or evening frock of chiffon velvet. Rare hand loom lace of antique design has been secured for three bands—one in back and two in front. It boasts an underbodice of the same rich velvet and a softly draped wrap-around skirt shirred to one side in lovely grace. Black, brown, bottle green or sap- phire with ecru lace, 14 to 20, in- clusive, $39.50. YOUTH’S DANCING HOURS CRAVE RADIANT EVENING GOWNS Their gleaming fabrics, piquant lines and exquisite colorings elude the artist’s brush and pen. One must see them, slip into them, to appreciate how enchanting are these new Barbara Lee achieve- ments. They are now to be seen in the shops listed here at the almost incredible price of $39.50, and in each you will find the unmistakable signature of Reathon Barbara Lee frocks for women and misses are shown exclusively in the shops listed in this advertisement. PRIMROSE First comes the slip of softest satin, then the lovely blouse of crépe chif- fon with its crystal beaded yoke and a skirt of circular inspiration! The velvet petalled flower with ‘metal threads shimmering through it closes the soft girdle of chiffon and adds a bewitching touch to this interesting model. Love apple red over peach satin, white over white satin, peach over peach, jade over peach. Sizes 14 to 20, inclusive, $39.50. The J. L. Hudson Co. Detroit, Mich. The Lasalle & Koch Company Toledo, Ohio The F. & R. Lazarus .& Co. Columbus, Ohio The Rike-Kumler Co. Dayton, Ohio Strawbridge & Clothier Philadelphia, Pa. The Wm. Taylor Son & Co. Cleveland, Ohio Weinstock, Lubin & Co. Sacramento, Cal. Woodward & Lothrop Washington, D. C.

Page 11

JE December l can 08 aa TO DS SER ee Oe me ss em fin mmm - i dag iA I | Che Gift Feminine Envelope Bags Opera Glasses Bandeaux Pera Pearls Perfumes Ostrich Fans Silverware Decorative Linens The Holiday Folder of Christmas Suggestions will be mailed upon request H. Altman & Cn. NEW YORK FIFTH AVENUE MADISON AVENUE Thirty-fourth Street Thirty-fifth Street FRIST w, mT in na

Page 12

Available at the Shops of I. Miller in New York, Brooklyn and Chicago and at shops m of distinction. everywhere.

Page 13

ino Sia abba

December 1 11

: Useful gifts of sterl- ' <i ing silver are in good a r¢ Si taste and have a i iN i e hearty welcome in <. © stm ¢ your every home ad pba re

a SILVERWARE

SrertinG Sitver Basy Sers—soft bristle brush, comb and rattle with handles of sterling silver. Complete in gift case. Illustrated above, $5.94.

AL IIO eX KK C%er, ©, %, 0. ¢ OQ OOK

&

STERLING SitverR Frower Vase—10 inches high,

hand-hammered, gracefully designed to hold sin- gie flower or a cluster. Illustrated left, $8.94.

Almost any room can be brightened with gleaming _candle- sticks or a lustrous slender vase

StertinG SirverR Mayonnaise Sets—ladle has sterling silver handle. Useful for sauces or whipped cream. Attractively boxed. Illustrated left, $5.34. STERLING SiLvER CANDLESTICKs—good weight. bright finish. Illustrated right. 10 inches high, $11.89 pair. 12 inches high, $15.48 pair. Stertinc Hanpiep Steak Sets—Colonial design, 6-inch blade of stainless steel, fitted with guard.

Heavy bright finish sterling silver handles. Com- plete in lined box. Illustrated right, $5.94.

STERLING SitveR SALT AND Pepper Sets—Colonial design. Two styles, one hammered, the other bright finish, engraved. Three salt, three pepper shakers. Boxed. Illustrated left, $4.96.

Ottve Woop Satap Sers—with sterling silver han- dles. Olive wood fork and spoon. Complete in gift box. Illustrated left, $5.94.

Srertinc Sitver Brive Basxets—10%_ inches high, distinctively shaped and daintily engraved.

Bail handle. Gold lined. Illustrated right, $10.89.

SreRLinG Sitver SAtt Sers—Six open dishes lined with gold. Six individual salt spoons. Complete in gift box. Illustrated right, $5.84. R.H Macyé Co

34ST. & BWAY INC. NEW YORK

Page 14

F the Greatest Sporting Goods Store in the World were suddenly trans- ported to the Summer Palace in Pekin—if the Davy Crockett log cabin on its roof were transformed into the old pagoda Waiting Tower, it could not be made more completely the Citadel of Ma Jung. WM tnic makes it a good sporting proposition to turn aside, for this once, from bird guns and American and European sporting matters generally—from Autumn’s brilliant sporting clothes, which make their headquarters here, to tell about this game. At the present moment there is a greater collection of authentic Chinese hand-carved Ma Jung sets, at the spot Where the Blazed Trail Crosses the Boulevard, than exists anywhere else in the world—even within the Great Wall of China itself. That's the thumb-nail story of the Ma Jung commis- sioner sent to China by Abercrombie & Fitch. For you can't dabble in Ma Jung. You plunge in. The whole Far East is in the throes of the game—and so is the Far West. At the Casino in Newport and at the New York Yacht Club they have printed their own house rules. E went into it as a sport, not as a novelty. We W got the story of the Ma Jung conquest first from sportsmen and travelers—introduced Ma Jung to the New York public, and interested the leading game experts of America in playing the game. It spread like a prairie fire. Chinese diplomatic and consular officers assisted us— Chinese gentlemen resident in America—and many a famous game of Ma Jung, with international players, was played in the Abercrombie & Fitch log cabin while the rules and literature were being put into English. ERE are thousands of authentic, selected, hand- carved Chinese sets, instead of the few stragglers which might ordinarily find their way to an Ameri- can store. —~ — —— A good, playable, hand-carved an hand-colored Chi- nese set, in a deco- rative box, for $16. From that the range runs, $20, $25, $30, $35, $40, $50, $60, $75, $85, $90, $100, $115, $125, $225, $275, $350, $375, $425 and $475. The ivory-faced sets—the only ivory sets to be found in any selec- tion in America, begin at $275. Each set, at every price, is the work of a pains- taking Chinese artist-craftsman feeling pride in his work, With a few ebony backed exceptions, the tiles are backed with bamboo. HERE are sets from Pekin and Hankow in quaint and beautiful chests; from Macoa, the old Portuguese Monte Carlo of the Chinese coast; Yellow Jacket and Mandarin Peacock sets; Ningpo sets; Chekiang and Kiangsu sets; exact duplicates of the sets in use at the Club de Lusi- tanio, in Canton, and the Club de Recreio, in Hong Kong—and at the Rokumeikan, in Tokyo, where Kipling first learned of the game, thirty years ago, on his road to Mandalay. _ The Greatest Sporting Goods Store in the World is, -r reality, the Ma Jung headquarters of the wor Ma Jung Tables, Racks and Containers for Counters Write for Illustrated Price List dbercrombie & Fitch Co- Ezra H. Fitch, President Madison Avenue and 45th Street, New York THE GREATEST SPORTING GOODS STORE IN THE WORLD

Page 15

December I 13 q CP) UE Lord & Taylor FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK This Mah Jong set in solid mahogany box with lift out trays is a gift suitable for a friend who is frequently a host. The bone and bamboo tiles have vivid and dis- tinctive markings, $61.50. A distinctive bandeau of gleaming silver, $7.95. Os- trich fan in softly shaded ae vermillion or other eve- ning shades,$17.95. “Lortay pearl” necklace with 14 kt. white gold filigree clasp, $4.75. Flexible pearl brace- let withsterling catch, $7.95. (0) Pe @ og arin A smoking set of two briar pipes, and seal or suede leather pouch and match case with gold shields. Set $31.50, without shields $22.50. The gifts you will want to send at Christmas time will have the tang of novelty and the unmis- takable evidence of taste in their selection. These suggestions represent gifts of distinction. Mail orders gladly filled. For surely welcome gifts, sheer silk hose in gold, silver, mauve, peach, blush, tortoise, rougeur, zinc, buff, log cabin, gunmetal, cinnamon, grey 31 and other smart colors. Pair, $4.50. Handkerchiefs this tag’ are fasci- nating with their wide borders of delicate black lace and bright col- ored or black chiffon centers. An accessory for afternoon or eve- ning, each, $1 and $1.75. A copy of the French “spade” um- brella. Enameled wood handle and silk cover to match, $12. Men’s London umbrellas. Han- dles of ash, malacca, ebony, bam- boo, pimento, whampoa and other fine woods, $15. GROUND FLOOR—A Floor of Gifts A shawl of gleaming silk brings sinuous grace in its swirl of fringe. Italian silk shawls are brilliantly colored and deeply fringed. Plain, $25 and $55. A glove silk lingerie gift set con- sists of vest, knickers and night- gown, trimmed with handmade Irish or filet lace, $29.15. Shell on amber toilet set, unique in design. White bristle brushes and beveled mirror. Ten pieces, $55. Iridescent glass atomizer, $4. A thin model sterling case, closely hammered, satin finish, holds ten po onger i $10. Cocktail shaker of silver plate. Plain, $8.75; hain- mered, $10. Petit Point inserts on rich black brocade, only in Paris does one find such fetching combinations. Flat envelope purse, $20; moire van- ity, $12. A box of Paris gloves for Christ- mas holds a pair short suede or glace, a pair white glace Biarritz, a pair 8 button suede, a pair 16 but- ton white glace. Box $19.75.

Page 16

Let T Christmas time, when you are moved to choose a gift that will be the perfect ex- pression of your regard, the consideration of a Gruen Watch is particularly appro- / priate. For the Gruen Guild craftsmen have created a wide selection of watches which both mechanically and artistically, hold a place pre-eminent among the world’s most distinguished timepieces. The Gruen VeriThin for men was America’s first accurate thin watch, and is today’s most scientifically built thin watch. The Gruen Patented Wheel Construction made possible the saving-of half the move- ment space, without the smallest reduc- your gift bear th VOGUE e mark of Gruen an =. a: Light in weight, perfectly proportioned, it is Gruen’s conception of what a man’s fine pocket watch should be. And it is pledged to give an unvarying timekeeping service. In the many Gruen Wrist Watches for women you will find that exquisite grace of line and design, and that sound, accurate performance, which mark them as perfect examples of the modern watch maker’s art. The cost of a Gruen Watch is no greater than that of a timepiece of far less value. Sold only through good jewelry stores. Look for the Gruen Service Emblem. GrRUEN WatTcH MakKeERs GUILD Time Hill, Cincinnati, U. S. A. Engaged in the art of watch manufacturing since 1874 New York Address, 512 Fifth Avenue, New York (Entrance, 2 West 43rd St.) Canadian Branch, Toronto tion in the size or strength of the parts ( 4 Me 4 ¢; It won't tip over in the pocket WS HN) re) a Patented eS: se ero aa y ‘ 7 By QS Empire 7—The Empire N Enameled, Extra Preci- sion, 19 jewel movement. solid white gold, $150 A ts Pentagon 3—The Penta- gon Precision VeriThin, white or green gold, solid or Gruen Reinforced, $70 to $275, according to case and movement eZ . — VI IIT Ia RASS ASIST, \ Cartouche 32—Semi-Cartouche, Precision. Gruen Reinforced white gold and enameled, $45 Square 35—Solid white gold and enameled, $75 and $80, according to movement No. 2-V-151—Iridio platinum (best platinum), finest diamonds and sap- phires, $365. The same in solid 18 kt. white gold with platinum set- tings, $185 and $195 Patented Tank—Tank white or green Empire 6—The VeriThin Preci- sion, white or green gold Gruen Reinforced, $70 and $75, accord- ing to case Empire 4—The VeriThin Preci- sion, solid white and green gold, gold, solid or Gruen Reinforced, 21 ruby jewels, $125 Precision, $55 to $85, according to case and movement ’ A i A i a A 4 4 42 42 4 4 4 42 42 4 ee & 2 we ee ee ae ae Ae GRUEN ¢£¢> WATCHES For your protection—see that the name Gruen is on the watch ° “JME Lo way] ViRrTHm war Through the Gruen wheel train con- = = | struction with other technical improve- =e oF ments, an accurate watch is made THIN without loss in strength of parts

Page 17

December 1 skin. 7 inches $21. 9 inches $25. X02431—Gift set, cigarette case, match case and wallet. Genuine black pin seal, 14-kt. gold medallion and corners. $21.00. X017293—Glass and sterling liquor bottle, rye or thistle etching. $18.00. X06366—Toilet case for men, with black ebony and celluloid fittings. Tan hide or black cobra hide $7.00. X10253—Bridge case. Crushed ya pastel shades, complete. X011716—Sturdy shopping bag. Two framed compartments, purse, mirror and puff case. Silk lined. Black or colored pin seal, or tan pig- ‘nad LoREWES ACTUAL maKe®> you least expect it; make haste, therefore, “for the night cometh when no man canwork’”’ Christmas comes when | X09417—‘‘Mah Jong” table, black lacquer wood, sateen top. Grooves for tiles, racks underneath, folding legs, table only $25.00. X013294/1 “Cross” week-end case, black enamelled cloth, leather binding, reinforced corners. Sizes 24, 26 and 28 inches. $10.00. Catalogue sent upon request BONS The World’s Greatest Leather Stores NEW YORK Fifth Avenue at 37th Street 175 and 253 Broadway X04245 — Travelling slip- Boston: 145 Tremont Street London: 89 Regent Street soft calfskin. Per pair Dealers Throughout the World Gift Glove Box, containing one pair each grey mocha, tan capeskin and white dress “‘Cross” gloves. For women $8.20. For men $10.10. (Please mention size when ordering). X09334/8—Cocktail tray, mahogany, glass- covered bottom; six glasses in metal rack. Tray and glasses $24.00. X06147—Cocktail shaker, best quality sil- ver plate, quart size $9.75. 2072—Tie case, folds compactly. Metal bar hanger at top, strap at bottom holds ties securely. Red, green, blue and purple morocco. $10.00. Tan pigskin. $12.50. X12480—Vanity box, two enamel powder boxes, attached purse, mirror. Crushed calfskin, pastel] shades. $19.75. Cross-grained morocco: red, green, blue, purple or black. $18.50. pers and case. Tan or black $5.00. (Please mention size.)

Page 18

VOGUE I SILVER Slipper Cleaner Releases the Imprisoned Beauty) of Tarnished Silver S libbers IKE diamond dust upon the robe of some legendary princess is the z effect produced by CINDERELLA Silver Slipper Cleaner. It cleans as it renews. Removes every tiniest trace of tarnish from cloth of silver or brocaded silver slippers. Preserves undimmed the original lustrous beauty of this daintiest of all feminine footwear. Another Everett & Barron product of unsurpassed merit is the ‘Suede Stick,” with wire brush, which cleans and re- colors Suede and Buck leathers. A worthy member of the CINDERELLA family of high quality preparations for renewing shoes worn at work or play. Sold by Leading Shoe and Department Stores / / / / / / / | /; / / / / ; / / / / / ] é / Y / ] ff EVERETT & BARRON CO. Paris Providence, R. I. London Other Cinderella Other Cinderella Products Products White Kid Polish White Fabric Cleaner Kid Polish Bronze Dressing —all shades Boot Cream Polishing Dye —all shades —black and brown Tube Creme —all shades Lustre Finish —black Patent Leather Creme

Page 19

© L. T. Inc. UXITE Pure Silk Hosiery is preferred by women who pay more than ordinary attention to details of dress because it offers refinements in style, in beauty and in fitting qualities not found in ordinary hosiery. In the matter of colors, for instance, Luxite offers twenty shades in silk hose, including the brown, tan, and wood shades now so much in vogue. There are styles in Luxite Hosiery for every occasion: Sheer Chiffons, Paris Clocks, Novelty Effects, rich Silk and Wool Mixtures—all of highest quality and the prices are moderate. LUXITE - MILWAUKEE, WIS. Also Makers of Luxite Glove Silk Lingerie

Page 20

Quelques Fleurs 2 Ounces Price, $7.50 Extraits Eaux de Toilette Poudres | a : es re | Poudres Compactes / Rouges \ ) 1) | Hdl Savons aaa \ Sels pour le Bain Brilliantines Hc GRACEFUL tribute, indeed, is the “gift from HOUBIGANT.” For, to the woman who receives it, it is something more than a charming expression of the Christmas spirit. It is a measure of one’s esteem. It indicates that one deems her the connoisseur who thinks in terms of perfection—who prefers the single perfect blossom to the armful of showy flowers, the small but flawless jewel to the gaudy imitation, or the perfumes of HOUBIGANT to any other kind. For more than a century HOUBIGANT perfumes have been made in France to meet the demands of women who care only for that which is really fine. ‘To-day, these Le app At Liles \ = rf exquisite extraits, together with delightful powders, Price, $5.00 sachets, and other toiletries, in single containers and in appropriate “Xmas box’’ assortments, are avail- able in America, as well as in Paris, London, and the other capitals of Europe. HovusiGANt, Paris, Parfumeur to Queen Marie of Roumania, 1923 Queen Victoria of Spain, 1923 Empress Eugenie of France, 1857 Queen Victoria of England, 1839 Empress Josephine of France, 1805 Marie Antoinette of France, 1790 HOUBIGANT “vc Le P. 5 Bro so ag New York MonTREAL Price, $6.75 . 16 West 49TH Sr. 46 St. ALEXANDER ST, Prices quoted apply in the U. S. A. cnly. Mon Boudoir 2 Ounces Price, $8.00 FOR REMEMBRANCE A fascinating trifle with which to send greetings on Christ- mas Day is this golden-capped HOUBIGANT scent bottle for the purse. Choice of four- teen of the famous HOUBIGANT odeurs. Price one dollar, Un Peu d’Ambre 2 Ounces Price, $8.00

Page 21

Page 22

Page 23

December 1 SILKS All Colors Washable aarlaacettitactigseittaits washing, because washing leaves orig- inal tones and lustre Btievievterticaeh “If it’s TRUHU it’s washable” Aun) | WASHABLE embrace Canton Crépes—Satin-faced Canton Crépes—Crepes de Chine—Satin- faced Crépes de Chine—Radiums—Broadcloths—The Selvage Mark is TRUNU If you have difficulty in securing Lingerie of TRUHU Silks please write to us. JERSEY SILK MILLS, Inc., 25 Madison Avenue, New York

Page 24

lables at the Ritz At the Ritz-Carlton—where society dines with dignity and leisure. Soft lights, graceful draperies, lustrous linen, gleaming silver—all combine to create an atmos- phere of luxurious refinement. One finds it even under the tables, in Holyoke Silk Hosiery—exquisitely sheer and delicate, yet candid in its promise of service to the wearer. This choice hosiery, full-fashioned, may be had in all the styles and colors which fashion suggests—at the most exclusive shops. Among the Newest Offerings Are: Paris Open Work Ctox, reflecting the latest mode for day and evening wear, in the newest French shades, Rosée, Aurora, Blush and Mauve. Hotyoke Sitk Hosiery Co., Hotyoke, Mass. Columbia Trust Building Dexter Building North American Building 358 Fifth Aver ue 453 Washington Street 36 South State Street NewYork City Boston, Mass. Chicago, Ill. Ylolyohe

Page 25

7 UR December Il A big chair, plenty of soft, downy cushions, a book, the friendly glow of lamplight—and to complete itall,a blissfully comfortable negligée of Waterside Corduroy. Then indeed you can relax! Luxurious in its “feel,” a rich velvety pile adding depth to its gorgeous color, Waterside is strikingly effective. And you will be surprised at its moderate price. Nor is price alone responsible for its economy. It is almost indestructible in wearing qualities and it washes as well as it dry cleans. Aterside. is of enduring beauty manufacturers. Look for the Waterside label when you are buying a corduroy negligée. ‘he label is illustrated below. Waterside Corduroy is carried by leading department stores everywhere. It is desirable not only for women’s negligées, but for women’s sports clothes and hats, jacquettes, men’s loung- ing robes and smoking jackets, children’s clothes, and many otheruses. Watersideisstamped on the selvage, although youwillrecognizeit by thesame glorious colors and superior quality as you are fa- miliar with in Waterside negligees; You are certain to find the newest and smartest fashions in ™~ x => it is exactly the same corduroy. see those of Waterside, for itis used corduroy negligées if you ask to =pcine C yy! | Howlett & Hockmeyer Co., Fifth y negng y WATERSIDE CORDUROY | y ) —s Avenueat 26th Street, New York. by the most prominent negligée ig. = ce | ~~ \_| Waterside Mills, Lowell, Mass. ‘| (UATERSIDE Charm and individuality are the chief characteristics of the negligée models in Waterside Cordura CORDUROY

Page 26

Note the trim outlines at ankle and heel assuring perfect fit without gaping or slipping of dding Sleganee to the Smartest Costume The well-gowned woman of to- day, no longer content with mere cleverness of pattern, insists upon footwear which fits the foot as faithfully as the shoulder of a coat when properly draped by a skilled tailleur. Heel Hugger footwear fits the foot snugly at the ankle without the usual bulge or gap—hugs the heel gently but firmly, allowing no slip- ping or rubbing. Even the slender- est foot finds perfect fit in Heel Huggers. The designers of Heel Huggers have built into these rarely modish shoes a definitely authoritative style note that has met with instant appreci- ation. They appeal irresistibly to the woman who insists upon an air of irreproachable smartness in every detail of her toilette. Write for the unique brochure,“ The Self-Determination of Annabelle Wyeth,” mentioning your dealer’s name UTZ & DUNN CO., 41 Canal Street, Rochester, N. Y.

Page 27

'G UR December 1 (ODSCRUEEACRER OM SCRURECCOSERUSRRBOARS ATLL LULA i S A. ’ ve i ftir Ny Te ; 2 7 eer |v | VY { { Frm ae 2eesso Se : “Sag, pchenenil ay lianee eS N “ae be YZ"—_— YZ" Jake toa ak bee C4mnbabAaaoor~ and observe the care with which the women of the smart set have selected their hats. FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK OH Wig) “o ‘OC are notable for their extraordinary charm and correctness of styling, rivaling original Paris Creations at a fraction of their cost. Wherever you see well-dressed women, you'll see these hats. Sold at Exclusive Stores Everywhere. H. L. DISTILLATOR & SON, INC. 417 Fifth Avenue, New York OLGA AMAA AYA MMM AMY 21

Page 28

4 TURUUUUEOUCOOUGOUARLYO ARLE UTUecnan cence UcUantaanUaiutuetuuaneaacetucnuvauienayeuszaeauniuayeusieveuseeuiuivaccagucenct 30 it (i ti iit in TTT Announcing the next number of +. «+ = O14 Mek Te mouse is staying with them, and they are going to have the prettiest tree ever seen, set up in the big drawing-room which opens into the smaller drawing-room _ with fold- ing doors. This will bc on Christmas afternoon. The five children’ will have their stockings hang- ing in the _ school-room chimney (which they may atteck at any hour after dawn with impunity) and their more solid presents piled up on the shelves of the side-table in the din- ing-room at breakfast- time. The tree will have only minor gifts for them, but all the people on the place, all the servants in the house, will be remem- bered, and Miss Mce- Pherson and the Reverend John Valiant will help wn a the good things. HTT HOLIDAY: oe ‘heigaad DECEMBEPo 15 N & | goo Merry Christmas—from Vogue! OES it seem a long time until Christmas? . . . D But it isn’t—just a month. And if it’s going to be the starry-eyed success tradition demands, it ought to begin—well, now. The first thing to do, of course, is to shop through this number of Vogue that you hold in your hand, and make sure of your reputation as a clever woman. The second thing is to reserve the next number, and a place for the Christmas spirit at your own party. There’s an article for the Christmas hostess by Caroline Duer, who writes those delightful Vogue editorials. (You’re always telling us they’re delightful, so why shouldn’t we tell you?) The sketch above is one of Barbour’s illustrations. And the whole thing is just a3 Christmassy as the sample. MMU LLM But it isn’t all nice and peaceful, that next issue. John McMullin, than whom there is no man less peace-pur- suing, tells us which are the chic places of the moment to dine and dance, the liveliest dancing shows to see. . . . A most amusing article, and a life-saver for the Christ- mas visitor to New York. Then, of course, clothes. Considered from every possi- ble angle; arranged to suit every possible and impossi- ble smart purse. Paris. . . . New York. . Morning. Afternoon. Evening. Sports. ... New shoes, too. And just enough Christmas gifts for you to fill the last half-inch of the stocking or start a new one. . . . Need it? Of course, you need that number. Christmas begins with it—really. HINULIUUNNUHNUNUNQQNQQ449000000008280088NENNEUEOEEUTOEOOOOOAUUOUOUOUOOOOOOOUOUOOOOOUOOOOOOOUOOUOOOQUOAOOOOOOOEOOAGOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOODONNUEEL DUNSUOONUENUOONUEOUOUNUORNLYUCOT ERO EOD NTT EGU ETT VOGUE Condé Nast, Publisher cents a copy Edna Woolman Chase, Editor Twice a month Heyworth Campbell, Art Director $5 a year 19. WEST 44th STREET, NEW YORK CITY 24 copies a } year 9 {NHI VULVA ST Bil

Page 29

GUE December 1 d \ BREESE REPRE RE RRR AAAS EPRI a at Included among the hundreds Included among the hundreds of merchants featuring sie of merchants featuring Stride-A ways are: Akron, Ohio—The Wadsworth Co. Altoona, Pa.—The Wm. F. Gable Co. Ann Arbor, Mich.—Mack & Company Ashland, Wis.—Seaman Bros. Augusta, Ga.—Goldberg’s. : Austin, Texas—T. H. Williams & Co., Inc. Baltimore, Md.—Joel Gutman Co. Baltimore, Md.—Hochschild, Kohn & Co. Beaumont, Texas—The Fashion. Beloit, Wis.—Thompson Cloak & Suit Co. Billings, Mont.—H. T. Hedden. Binghamton, N. Y.—Hills, McLean& Haskins, Inc. Birmingham, Ala.—Louis Saks Clothing Co. Birmingham, Ala.—Augusta F setinemn Sie, Inc. Bloomington, Il1.—C. W. Klemm, Inc. Boston, Mass.—Jordon Marsh Co. Boston, Mass.—Warren Blaisdell, Inc. Brockton, Mass.—Fraser Dry Goods Co. Buffalo, N. Y.—J. N. Adam & Co. Brooklyn, N. Y.—Namm’s. Butler, Pa.—Zimmerman’s Specialty Store., Canton, Ohio—The Stern & Mann Co. Cedar Rapids, lowa—Denccke's. Champaign, Ill.—W. Lewis & Co. Charleston, W. Va.—The Walker Dry Goods Co. Charlotte, N. C.—J. B. ivey & Co. Chattanooga, Tenn.—Schwartz Bros. Cincinnati, O.—The Denton Co. Cincinnati, O.—The Smith-Kasson Co. Cleveland, O.—The Higbee Co. Columbus, O.—The Fashion Co. Columbus, O.—The F. & R. Lazarus Co. Columbus, O.—The Z. L. White Co. Conneaut, O.—The A. W. Pelton Co. Corning, N. Y.—The Rockwell Co. Danville, I11.—Straus & Louis Company. Davenport, Iowa—Grossman Bros. Cloak Co. Dayton, O.—The Elder & Johnston Company. Dayton, O.—The Rike-Kumler Co Decatur, Ill.—Linn & Scruggs Dry Goods & Car- t Co pet Co. Delaware, O.—The R. P. Harris Co. Denver, Colo.—The Denver Dry Goods Co. Des Moines, lowa—Harris-Emery Company. Detroit, Mich.—Himelhoch’s. Detroit, Mich.—Newcomb-Endicott Company. Duluth, Minn.—Duluth Glass Block Store, Inc. East Liverpool, O.—D. M. Ogilvie & Company. Elgin, Ill.—1. Cohien & Co. Elmira, N. Y.—Tepper Bros. Elyria, O.—The A. Goldstein Sons Co.. Erie, Pa.—J. H. Wilker. Evanston, Ill.—Rosenberg’s Dept. Store. Evansville, Ind.—Fowler, Dick & Walker. Fargo, N. D.—Remley & Johnson Co. Flint, Mich.—Warrick Bros. Fort Dodge, lowa—The Johns Dry Goods Co Fort Smith, Ark.—Wolf-Pollock Dry Goods Co. Fort Wayne, Ind.—Rurode Dry Goods Co. Fort Worth, Tex.—Sanger Bros. Freeport, Ill.—F. A. Read Co Galesburg, Il1.—Grossman Bros. Cloak Co. Grand Rapids, Mich.—Friedman Spring Dry Goods Co. Greenville, N. C.—The Blount-Harvey Co. Hattiesburg, Miss.—Fine Bros. Henderson, Ky.—Mann Bros. Holyoke, Mass.—A. Steiger & Co. Hot Springs, Ark.—Albert Mendel &-Co. Houston, Tex.—Harris-Hahlo Co. Huntington, W. Va.—Zenner-Bradshiaw Company Indianapolis, Ind.—Pettis Dry Goods Co. Indianapolis, Ind.—Selig Dry Goods Co. Ithaca, N. ¥.—Rothschild Bros. Jackson, Mich.—Cook & Feldher Co. Jackson, Miss.—The Emporium. Jamestown, N. Y.—The Abrahamson-Bigelow Company. Joliet, I11.—The Bostori Store. Joplin, Mo.—The Christman Diy Goods Co. Kalamazoo, Mich.—Gilmore Bros. Kankakee, I11.—The Chicago Store. Kansas City, Mo.—Harzfeld’s. Kewanee, I11.—The Szold Store. Knoxville, Tenm.—Anderson-Dulin-Varnell Co. Kokomo, Ind.—G. W. Gates & Co. La Crosse, Wis.—The Wm. Doerflinger Co. Lansing, Mich.—J. W. Knapp Co Lawrence, Kansas—Innes, Bullene & Hackman. Lawrence, Mass.—Cherry & Webb Co. Lewiston, Idaho—Bratton-Morris & Co. Lewiston, Maine—B. Peck Company. Lexington, Ky.—+Piie Qenton-Ross-Todd Co. Lima, O.—G. E. Blaem. Lima, O.—Carter & Carroll Lima, O.—R. T. Gregg & Co. Lincoln, Neb.—H Fivestieiner Co. Long Beach, Calif.—Hugh A. Marti Co. Lorain, O.—The Lorain Dry Goods Company. Los Angeles, Cal.—The Broadway Dept. Store. Louisville, Ky.—The H. P. Selman Co. Lowell, Mass.—The Gagnon Co. Lynchburg, Va.—Almond's, Inc. Lynchburg, Va.—Lynchburg Quality Shop. Manchester, N. H.—James W. Hill Co. Mansfield, O.—The H. L. Reed Company. Marinette, Wis.—The Style Shop. Christmas Gift HE popular Stride-Away—the only seamless crotch bloomer— no binding, longer wearing. A waist line that always stays in place. Fewer séams and they’re guaranteed against ripping! And the soft, lustrous, irresistible fabrics in alluring shades of taupe, henna, navy, black, emerald, purple, brown —Trico- Soie and closely knitted silks, also cotton fabrics. Ask for the Stride-Away—it’s patented and cannot be copied, so only in this bloomer will you find all the features you so greatly cherish. It’s a practical, worth-while gift. THE L. N. GROSS CO., Cleveland, O. Established 1898 New York Salesroom, 253 Fifth Avenue Vuwde PATENTED BLOOMERS Stride-A ways are: Marion, O.—The Frank Bros. Co. Marquette, Mich.—The Paris Fashion. Massillon, O.—The Ideal Co. Mattoon, I11.—Cokendolpher & Co. Meadville, Pa.—Charles Fahr. Medford, Ore.—Mann's Department Store. Memphis, Tenn.—The Landres Co. Meridian, Miss.—Winner, Klein & Co. Milwaukee, Wis.—T. A. Chapman Co. Milwaukee, Wis.—Boston Store. . Minneapolis, Minn.—E. E. Atkinson & Co. Minneapolis, Minn.—L. S. Donaldson Co. Mobile, Ala.—C. J. Gayfer & Co. Muskegon, Mich.—Wm. D. Hardy &-Co. Muskogee, Okla.—Calhoun Dry Co. Nashua, N. H.—Chamberlain-Patten Co.. Nashville, Tenn.—Rich-Schwartz & Joseph. Newark, N. J.—L. Bamberger & Co. New Bedford, Mass.—Cherry & Company. New Castle, Pa.—Brown & Hamilton Co. New Haven, Conn.—The Gamble-Desmond Co. New Orleans, La.—Mayer Israel & Co. * New Philadelphia, O.—Simpson’s. New York, N. Y.—Best & Co. New York, N. Y.—Bonwit Teller & Co. New York, N. Y.—Lord & Taylor. New York, N. Y.—Stern Bros. New York, N. Er Wanamaker. Niagara Falls, N. Y.—Beir Bros. Norfolk, Va.—Smith & Welton. North Adams, Mass.—McCraw & Tatro. Norwich, Conn.—The Porteous-Mitchell Co. Ogden, Utah—Golden Rule Mercantile Co. Oil City, Pa.—Edwards Bros. inc. Oklahoma City, Okla.—Gloyd-Halliburton Co. Okmulgee, Okla.—Morton Bros. Omaha, Neb.—)J. L. Brandeis & Sons. Oshkosh, Wis.—Frank Stein & Co. i Ottawa, Kansas—The Davenport Dry Goods Co. Paducah, Ky.—E. Guthrie Co. Painesville, O.—S. D. Chapman. Paris, Tex.—Crook-Record Co. Parkersburg; W. Va.—Dils Bros. & Co. Pasadena, Cal.—Herman R. Hertel Co. Peoria, Ill.—Klein's. Piqua, O.—J. W. Brown Co. Pittsburgh, Pa.—Boggs & Buhl, Inc. Pittsburgh, Pa.—Joseph Horne Co. Pittsburgh, Pa.—Mceyer Jonasson & Co. Pittsturgh, Pa.—Kaufmann’'s. Pittsfield, Mass.—Holden & Store. Pocatello, Idaho—W. H. Wright & Sons Co. Port Huron, Mich.—The Ballentine Dry Goods Co. Portland, Maine—Portcous, Mitchell & Braun Co. Portsmouth, O.—The A. Kline Co. Pottstown, Pa.—Pomeroy’s. Providence, R. I.—Cherry & Webb Co. Pueblo, Colo.—White & Davis. Quincy, I1l.—Halbach-Schroeder Co. Raleigh, N. C.—The Boylan-Pearce Company. Reno, Nevada—Golden Rule Mercantile Co. Richmond, Va.—Thalhimer Brothers, Inc. Rochester, N. Y.—Sibley, Lindsay & Curr Cx. Rockford, Ill.—H. L. Wortham Co. Rutland, Vt.—Chas. Sterns & Co. Saginaw, Mich.—The M. W. Tanner Co. Saginaw, Mich.—Seitner Bros. Salisbury, N. C.—Oestreicher's. San Antonio, Tex.—Joske Bros. Co. San Diego, Cal.—The Marston Co. Sault Ste. Marie, Mich.—Cowan & Hunt, Inc. Sharon, Pa.—W. ‘W. Moore Co. Sheboygan, Wis.—Sell Bros. Co. Shreveport, La.—The Baird Co. Ltd. Shreveport, La.—The Hearne Dry Goods Co. Ltd. Sioux Falls, S. D.—Fantle Bros.-Danforth Co. Spokane, Wash.—Palace Store Company Springfield, Mass.—Albert Steiger Company. Springfield, O.—The Fahien-Tehan Co. St. Louis, Mo.—Scruggs-Vandervoort-Barney Dry s Co. St. Paul, Minn.—Field, Schlick & Co. Terre Haute, Ind.—A. Herz. Texarkana, Tex.—O Dwyers’ Fashion Shop. Toledo, O.—The Parsons-Blackmore Co. Topeka, Kansas—The Warren M. Crosby Co. Topeka, Kansas—The Pelletier Stores Co. Trenton, N. J.—H. M. Voorhees & Bro. — Colo.—The R. Hamerslough Mercantile Tulsa, Okla.—The Vandever Dry Goods Co. Tulsa, Okla.—Hunt's Department Store. Valparaiso, Ind.—Specht-Finney Co. Vicksburg, Miss.—Valley Dry Coods Co. Waco, Texas—The Goldstein-Migel Co. Walla Walla, Wash.—Gardner & Co. Washington, D. C.—The Palais Royal. Washington Court House, O.—The Frank L. Stutson Co. x Kansas—The Walker Bros. Dry Goods Wichita Falls, Tex.—P. B. M. Co. Wooster, Ohio—Freedlander's. Worcester, Mass.—John C. McGinnes Co, ~ Zanesville, O.—The H. H. Sturtevant Co.

Page 30

24 Sele lees imines \N \ Wig a ad il Pl al ll la d ¢ VOGUE’ DIRECTORY S SCHOOL SF lll il i — ae VOGUE jp PPP iP NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY THE SCUDDER SCHOOL West _Seventr-second Street at Riverside Drive, New York. 7 buildings; 200 eoteee. = prac- tical courses. (A) SELECT GH SCHOOL:— Preparatory and general. (B) POST GRADU ATE: —1i. Domestic Science and Home Management; 1- year course with diploma. 2. Secretarial; includes Spanish, French, Library Methods, ete. 3. Social Welfare and Community Service: training for com- pensated or volunteer work. Classroom instruction and actual field work. Gymnasium, ovlmmning. ete. Dormitories like college _— Address Miss V. G. Scudder, New York City, N. Y., 244 West 72nd St. The SCOVILLE SCHOOL 1006 Fifth Ave. N.Y.C. Opp. Art Museum & Central Park Boarding and Day School for Girls Complete academic, college prepara- tory and advanced studies THE BROWNSON SCHOOL Private School for Catholic Girls. Resident and Day Pupils. French the language of the house. Mrs. Atwood Violett 22-24 East 9ist Street New York THE DEVERELL SCHOOL 57 East 74th Street, New York City French Boarding and Day School Paris Branch FRENCH HOME SCHOOL Planned exclusively for girls pursuing special studies in New York. Exceptional opportunities for French. MISS MACINTYRE or MLLE. TALGUEN 320 W. (07th St., Riverside Drive, New York City GARDNER SCHOOL 11 East 5lst Street, New York City A thorough school with delightful home life. College preparatory, academic, secretarial, elective courses. a Outdoor sports. 67th year. Miss Eltinge and Miss Masland, Principals. THE FINCH SCHOOL A Boarding and Day School for Girls, emphasizing post-graduate work 61 East 77th Street, New York City STUDENTS’ RESIDENCES TEASDALE RESIDENCE For Girl Students ges Young Women -. Wen 80th St. Riverside Drive, N happier. of his life? the future? technical training. comradeship. For every boy, there special information. 21 West 44th Street A GROWING BOY | takes himself so seriously that he must be given serious consideration. None can be happier than he; and none un- All of which means that the choice of a school is of the utmost importance. What will the school mean for these years | And what will it promise for The right ideas, ideals, com- panions and training? For the boy who looks with favor and under- standing on this machine-made age, there is Military training rounds out the lives of youngsters who require just such precision in addition to a good scholastic record. College preparation is obtained in schools offering every facility for sports and good rect to the schools listed here—or to us for CONDE NAST SCHOOL SERVICE Write di- is a school. New York City NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY New York School of Music and Arts 150 RIVERSIDE DRIVE All Branches of Music and the Arts taught DORMITORIES IN BUILDING CUDDER SCHOOL—MUSIC Voice, piano, organ, violin, cello, flute, harp, ete. ‘16 master-artist instructors. Academie subjects, French, Spanish, ete. Dormitories. Ask for catalog. WINFIELD ABELL, Dir., 244 W. 72d St.. N. Y. MISS M. HOURIGAN’S SCHOOL Degrees —_ Royal Ci pow bonged of ussels and Lond Music, French, pao Opportunity on special study. Chaperonage. Supervision 125 E. 80th St.. N.Y. City. Phone Rhinelander 0493 DONGAN HALL Country School overlooking New York Harbor. College Preparation. General Course. Art, Music. mma Barber Turnbach, A.B., Principal Dongan Hills Staten Island, N. Y OSSINING SCHOOL For Girls We offer with diploma, Academic, College Prepara- tory, Art, Music, Dramatics, Secretarial and Home Making Courses. Separate school for young girls. In beautiful Westchester, 30 miles from New York. 55th year. Address Clara C. Fuller, Prin., 12V, Ossining-on-Hudson, New York HIGHLAND MANOR, Tarrytown-on-Hudson, N.Y. Non-sectarian boarding school for girls on a beau- tiful estate. Liberal Arts, College Preparatory, Post Graduate, Secretarial. Thorough music courses, all branches. Home-making. Journalism. Primary, In- termediate. Outdoor Life. Eugene H. Lehman, Tarry- town-on-Hudson, N.Y. Tel. Tarrytown 1505. Box V. lad aay Ghe Castle ‘ Miss Mason's School i~- for Girls .: 731 Tarrytown-on-Hudson, NewYork BRIARCLIFF Mrs. Dow's School for Girls Mrs EDITH COOPER HARTMAN, B.5S.-P; NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY . c. Tutoring if desired Senn and transient guests Week end parties Chaperonage. Tel. Endicott 7858 THE ACORN CLUB 305 West 100th Street, New York City A delightful home for girls studying in the city, and for young business women. Rates moderate. Telephone Riverside 0460. Miss Mary F. Fraser Miss M. Ethel Sliter Mrs. Boswell’s Residence 344-346 West 84th St., at Riverside Drive, New York. A delightful home for girls attending any school, college or studio. Open all year. Registra- tions now for 1923-24. Elective chaperonage. Seventh year. Telephone Schuyler 3106. Catalogue. Attractive New Pork Bome FOR A FEW GIRL STUDENTS Write for information to Miss M. C. Belden, 391 West End Ave., New York City Telephone Endicott 0016. CO-EDUCATIONAL SOCIAL MOTIVE SCHOOL College Preparatory and Special Courses for girls. Kindergarten thru sixth grade for boys and gir!s. Class- es small—individual attention em- Phasized. MISS BENTLEY, Prin. 526 West 114th St., New York City ST. ELIZABETH-OF-THE-ROSES A MOTHER SCHOOL Episcopal. Open all year. Children 3 to 12 years. One hour from New York. Usual studies. Outdoor sports. Camp, Bathing. ‘‘The School that Develops Initiative.” Mrs. B iteddard, Directress, Box V, Noroton, Conn. PRIVATE TUTOR Elementary and College Preparatory Branches— Modern and Classical Languages. Endorsed by leading schools we ~ city Mrs. H. D. Roberts: 62 t e4th ‘Street Schuyler 3822. ‘Now York City Miss Beard’s School for Girls A country school, 13 miles from New York. College Preparatory, Advanced Courses. Junior High School. Music, Art, Domestic Science. Supervised physical work ‘in gymnasium and field. Catalogue. Lucie C. Beard, Headmistress, Orange, N. J. THE COMMONWEALTH SCHOOL Of Home Making and Community Subjects. Regular course, one year. Also part time courses. Second term begins February 4th. Box V, 136 E. 55th St., New York City. DWIGH SCHOOL FOR GIRLS sananes | of reparation Special Finishing Courses. hietics, Gymnasium, Tennis, Riding. Ww rue er illustrated booklets. Catalog on request Miss E. S. Creighton, Principal, Englewood, N. J. HEWLETT SCHOOL White’s Lane, Cedarhurst, L. I., N. Y. Twenty miles from New York City. Day and boarding school for girls. Primary through college preparatory. Country life with outdoor sports. GLEN EDEN For high-school girls or graduates. Suburban to New York City, 50 minutes from Fifth Avenue. Magnificent equipment. Buildings of granite. Enter any time. For booklet address Director. Glen Eden, Stamford, Conn. THE PARSONS SCHOOL An all-the-year home school for girls from four to fourteen years of age. Small group, personal care, thorough instruction. Ideally healthy location near New York. Send for further particulars to Grace Parsons Box V Essex Fells, KENT PLACE SUMMIT, N. J. 20 miles from N. Y. A Country School for Girls College Preparatory and Academic Courses New Jersey Mrs. Sarah Woodman Paul > Miss Anna S. Woodman | Principals General, College Preparatory and —The Ely School for Girls Greenwich, Conn. In the country. One hour from New York. Junior and Upper Schools. course, intensive college preparatory review. Graduate Courses. Also one-year BRIARCLIFF MANOR - NEW york [esratown-cn- MAR YMOUN Hudson, N. Y. Pre-Academic, Academic and College Courses lead- ing to Degrees. Two-year Finishing Course. Gym- nasium. Swimming Pool, ding. Music, Art. Paris Branch—Chateau de la Mue For Catalogue apply to sevarana Mother. NEW YORK STATE “iy Cultural. a College Preparatory, Vocational, Lower School 10 to Mrs. Russell ecakion” Box V. URSULINE ACADEMY A convent school, two hours from New York City Elementary, Intermediate, College Preparatory. Courses in Music, Modern Languages, Secretary- ship, with diploma. Horseback riding, all athletics. Summer Camp. Address Ursuline Sisters, Box V, Middletown, DREW SEMINARY The Carmel School for Girls on beautiful Lake Gleneida, 49 miles from New York. 600 ft. elevation. High scholastic standing. Small classes. General and especial courses. Separate building for Junior School. Athletics. 58th year. Moderate charges. Catalog. Dr. Clarence P. McClelland, President, Box 508, Carmel, N. Y. yea Ju Ami fron Ini Fie! Coll s&s Fr)

Page 31

December 1 25

FOREIGN SCHOOLS & TRAVEL NEW ENGLAND EASTERN ATLANTIC DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA

The Fontaine School fAXnte nd travel. Cultural, Finishing and College ee story courses. Trips. Sports. #Resident and Day Students. Address Director, Miss Marie Louise ontaine, Care of Women’s City Club, 22 Park Ave., York City; or Box 78, Cannes, A.M., France. F New CHATEAU DE GROSLAY (S.-Q.) A high class finishing school for French and American girls; twenty minutes from Paris.

Paris branch at 37 rue Ribera (XVle) Mme. Benasson-Marignac, Grcoslay (S.-O.), France.

A SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Les in LAUSANNE, Switzerland Alliéres rtable house, splendid situation. Special ose for French. Music, other modern lan- guages, dressmaking. Winter and summer sports. For illustrated prospectus apply to the Principal. MADAME REY’S HOME SCHOOL 28 Rue La Fontaine, Auteuil—Paris, France Tel. Auteuil 4336 Unusual opportunities for American girls. During the war, Miles. Rey taught for five years in two of the leading Eastern Schools of the ‘ Ref. Mile. Rey, 155 E. 21st St., New York City.

WRITE TO THE CONDE NAST SCHOOL SERVICE ABOUT THESE SCHOOLS.

SUMMER CAMPS THE TEELA—WOOKET CAMPS Senior and Junior Camps for Girls under 20. Rox- bury, Vermont. Famous for fine saddle horses, free riding and thorough instruction in_ horsemanship. 300 acre ‘‘Wonderland”’ in heart of Green Moun- tains, Booklet. Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Roys, 10 Bowdoin St., Cambridge 38, Mass.

NEW ENGLAND

Boarding and Day School for Girls Junior High, College Preparation One year special intensive training Secretarial, Domestic Science, Music, and Art Courses Amid magnificent estates. 40 acres. Ocean frontage. Park-like grounds. Boston 20 miles. Intensive training for college and school examinations. MR. and MRS. C. P. KENDALL 18 Prides Crossing, Beverly, Mass. WALNUT HILL SCHOOL 25 Highland Street, Natick, Mass. A College Preparatory School for Girls. 17 miles from Boston. 46 Acres. Skating Pond. Athletic Fields. 6 Buildings. Gymnasium. Miss Conant, Miss Bigelow, Principals. THE MISSES ALLEN SCHOOL College Preparatory, General, and Cultural Courses. Each girl’s personality observed and _ developed. Booklet on application. Telephone West Newton 131. Lucy Ellis Allen, Principal West Newton, Mass.

OTTO H TTT enol Ti te Bradford Academy Offers two years of collegiate work for high school graduates. Also special opportu- nities in Art, Music, Expression and Household Arts. For information as to courses of study and entrance requirements, address REGISTRAR of the JUNIOR COLLEGE Box 162, Bradford Academy, Bradford,Mass. A three-year college preparatory course ts also given to a limited number of applicants SHUUUNANUAAUNONUCOUUNOUNOAUNOAUEAUNOLECQUUNOANAANNALLN Te HOUSE IN THE PINES Norton, Mass., 30 miles from Boston. A School for Girls. College preparatory and finish- ing courses. Music, Art, Household Arts. Secre- tarial courses. Every attention, not only to habits of study, but_to each girl’s health and happiness. Miss Gertrude E. Cornish, Principal. THE BURNHAM SCHOOL for GIRLS Founded by Mary A. Burnham in 1877. Opposite Smith College Campus. Miss Heten E. Tuompson, Headmistress. NorTHAMPTON, Massachusetts. The Chamberlayne School Intensive preparation for college. General and special courses. Music, art, languages — native rs. Out-of-door sports. teache a 261 Clarendon St., Corner of Commonwealth Avenue Boston, Mass. LASELL SEMINARY A school that develops well-trained, healthful and resourceful womanhood. Home Economics, Music,

OTT SOL TTTerTTT

Art, College Preparatory and Secretarial Course. Guy M. Winslow, Principal 126 Woodland Road, Auburndale, Mass.

CHOATE SCHOOL 1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Mass. Home and day school for girls. Special emphasis on college preparatory work. Augusta Ghoate, Vassar A.B., ROGERS HALL SCHOOL For Girls. Lowell, Mass. College Preparatory and General Courses. Yor Illustrated Catalog or Booklets address Miss Olive Sewall Parsons, Principal. EMPHASIZING AlacDulfie ONE YEAR COLLEGE TUTORING School FOR GIRLS A.M., Principal

PREPARATION COURSE 1 Catalogue. Springfield.Mass. Mount Ida School for Girls Preparatory, finishing school. Exceptional oppor- tunities, with a delightful home life. Send for Year Book 2630 Summit Street, Newton, Mass. The Miss Farmer School of Cookery Home of the Boston Cooking School Cook Book. Cookery and Household technique for the home and for professional use. Six months and intensive short courses. Send for booklet. Miss Alice Bradley, Principal, 30 Huntington Avenue, Boston, Mass.

Miss Hall’s School Pittsfield, Massachusetts TENACRE A Country School for Girls 10 to 14. Preparatory to Dana Hall, 14 miles from Boston. All sports and athletics supervised and adapted to the age of the pil. Finest instruction, care and _ influences. ss Helen Temple Cooke, Dana Hall, Wellesley, Mass. MISS HOWE AND MISS MAROT’S Country Boarding School for Girls College Preparation General Courses Athletics and Sports Mary Louise Marot, Thompson, Conn. “SAINT MARGARET’S SCHOOL 48th year. College preparatory. Secretarial and mestic Science Courses. Gymnasium. Organized athletics. Outdoor life on 50-acre school farm. Miss Emily Gardner Munro, A.M., Principal. Waterbury, Conn. H IL L SI D E Norwalk, Conn. For Girls. 45 miles from New York. Prepara- tion for college entrance examinations. General Courses. Organized athletics. MargaretR.Brendlinger,A.B. (Vassar) Vida Hunt Francis, A. B. (Smith) $ Prins. LINCOLN SCHOOL College Preparatory for Girls. General Courses Modern fireproof buildings All sports. Country life. City advantages MISS MIRIAM SEWALL CONVERSE, Principal Providence, Rhode Island

EASTERN ATLANTIC

A Graduate School for Girls Wd” Delightfully located in a college town near Phila- delphia. Elective college Special work in Art, Music, Home-making, work. New school

courses, Dramatic Art and Secretarial building includes gymnasium and swimming pool. All outdoor activities. Catalog. MR. and MRS. H. M. CRIST, Principals Box 1509, Swarthmore, Pa. Also The Mary Lyon School, College Preparatary. Seven Gables, girls 6-14.

Harcum School for Girls Thorough college preparation; or spe- cia! study. Music, Art. New building, large grounds. Athletics, riding. Mrs. e. H. Hareum, .» Head of School; Mrs. L. M. Willis, B.P., Box V, Bryn Mawr, Pa. MAROBERT HALL The Boarding Department of The Girls’ Latin School. Excellent College Preparation at Moderate Rates. Cultural Course with Resident Peabody Teacher. 84th Year. Catalog. 1221 St. Paul St., Baitimore, Md. Principal,

HIGHLAND HALL A school for Girls High in the Mountains College Preparatory, General, Post-Graduate Courses utumn and Spring Camp part of School Life Ellen C. Keates, A.B., Principal, Holidaysburg, Pa. BEECHWOOD Jenkintown, Pa. Suburb of Philadelphia. School for practical training of young women. Junior College Departments, Music, Art, Home Economics, Kindergarten, Normal Gymnastics, ete. Pipe organ, Gymnasium. Address as above. OGONTZ SCHOOL Founded 1850. A _ school for girls occupying an estate on the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Illustrated booklet describing new building mailed on request. Rydal, Junior Dept. Miss Abby Sutherland, Principal, Montgomery County. BISHOPTHORPE MANOR A select school for girls. Convenient to New York and Philadelphia. College preparatory and general courses. Secretarial work. Claude N. Wyant, Principal Box 243 Bethlehem,

Pa.

Pennsylvania, Overbrook ae Song or Girls. Subur Miss Sayward Ss Schoo of Philadelphia. College preparatory and Secretarial Courses, Music, Domestic Science, Physical training, outdoor sports, horseback riding, swimming. Develops character, mind and body. Write Dept. V. Miss Janet Sayward, Principal. LINDEN HALL 862004 FoR 100 GIRLS In Far-famed Lancaster Co., ‘‘Garden Spot of the U. S8.’’ College Preparatory, General Academic, Home Economics, Secretarial, Music, Art, Expres- sion. Courses for High School graduates. Separate Junior and Intermediate Depts. Gymnasium, Swim- ming Pool. Attractive, wholesome home life. Care- ful supervision. Catalog. Address F. W. Stengel, D.D., Box 120, Lititz, Pa. There Is Only ONE Best School The one that best fits your child’s individuality, needs and your purse. We will be glad to assist you. For information. and_ catalogs address Director, School Service, The NORTH AMERICAN, Philadelphia.

PENN HALL Qdrts College Preparatory and Special Courses. May of each year spent at Atlantic City. Work continued without interruption. Rates $800. Catalogue and views. Address Frank S. Magill, A.M., Prin., Box V, Chambersburg, Pa.

Close personal touch il _ instruction én Ollegiate small classes. Six di- ate ploma courses. A fine democratic spirit with nstitute for Girls sensible dress regula- tions and happy school life. In beautiful hill country near New York City. 50 acres. Gym- nasium. Swimming pool. 50th year. Catalog, ROBERT J. TREVORROW, President Box Hackettstown, N. J. MISS GILDNER’S PRINCETON SCHOOL For Girls 12 and over. Princeton, N. J. College preparatory, advanced college-entrance, gen- eral, graduate courses. Fine and domestic arts. Sec- retarial. Athletics, riding. Extensive country estate. Separate cottage, ‘‘Gildcrest,’’ for Junior School. Miss Laura V. Gildner, A.M., Director MARYLAND COLLEGE For Women. Ten miles from Baltimore. Four- year courses leading to all degrees, Two-year cer- tificate course. Personal supervision of strong faculty. Modern fireproof buildings. Swimming pool. Catalog. Box 12V, Lutherville, Maryland DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA KING -SMITH STUDIO -SCHOOL For young women. Music, languages, dancing, dra- matie art; any art, academic or college subject may be elected. Tuition according to amount of work taken. MR. & MRS. AUGUST KING-SMITH, Directors New Hampshire Ave., Washington, D. C. entenary

1751

The Birmingham School for Girls Birmingham, Pa. Thorough college preparation and courses for girls not going to college. Gymnasium, swimming pool, sleeping porch. Catalogue. P. S. MOULTON, A.B., Headmaster; A. R. GRIER, President, Box 125, Birmingham, Pa. DARLINGTON of niet iia For Young Women Develops personality and efficiency. Personnel Engineering, Secretarial, Domestic Science, Physical Education, Cultural Arts, College Preparatory. All sports, Gymnasium, swimming pool. Catalog. CHRISTINE F. BYE, Prin., Box 605, West Chester, Pa.

CHEVY CHASE SCHOOL A school for the girl of today and tomorrow. Courses: Preparatory, two-year advanced for high school graduates; special. Unrivalled location at the na- tional — For_catalog, address Chevy Chase School, ox V, Frederick Ernest Farrington, Ph.D., Headmaster, Washington, D. C.

The Misses Stone will open their home to young ladies who care for a winter of culture and profit in Washington. Special studies including secre- tarial course. 1700 Rhode Island Ave., N.W., Washington, D. C. Miss Isabelle Stone, A.B., Ph.D. Miss Harriet Stone, A.B., M.S.

Pennsylvania,

OAKCREST WASHINGTON. Dé ADDRESS THE SECRETARY

Me Colonial School FOR GIRLS In the finest residential section of Washington, Courses include grades, college preparatory, years’ collegiate work, music, art, expression, secre- tarial, domestic science. Athletics, dramatics. Ate tractive social tife within For catalog, address Miss Jessie Truman, 1537 Eighteenth Street, school. Associate Principal, Washington, D. C.

ane HRMS, ey | —~, = = = ENG ER) — D WARD-BELMONT For Girts and Young Womtn WARD-BELMONT combines high- est academic training and advan- tages of extensive grounds and equipment with that much-sovght- for Southern culture and refinement. WARD-BELMONT offers a_ six- year course of study embracing two years of college. Its well-balanced curriculum meets the individual needs of students. Early application for 1923-24 is necessary. Address ELMONT 10, Nashville, Tenn.

WARD-B Belmont Heights, Box

FASSIFERN For Girls A Home School in the mountains. Altitude 2,200 ft. College preparatory... Separate department for little girls. Individual aftention. Electives, Music, Art, Expression. Physical training, horseback rid- ing. Rates $600. For catalog address Miss Kate C. Shipp, Hendersonville, N. C. WARRENTON COUNTRY SCHOOL For Young Girls College preparatory and special courses. French, the language of the house. The school is planned to teach girls how to study, to bring them nearer nature, and to inculcate habits of order and economy. Mile. Lea M. Bouligny, Box 18, Warrenton, Va. SULLINS COLLEGE Bristol. Virginia For Girls. High School and Junior College Courses. Music, Expression, Domestie Science, ete. New buildings; every room connecting bath. Swimming Pool, Horse-back riding. Mountain climate. W. E. Martin, Ph.D., Pres., Box H.

GULF-PARK By-the-Sea A Junior college for young women. National patronage. Two years college, four years high school. All new buildings. Land and water sports, year ‘round. Vachel Lindsay, celebrated poet, teaches Modern Poetry, 23-24, Address Gulf Park College, Box S, Gulfport, Miss. Miss Harris’ Florida School Under northern management, northern faculty. Tourist pupils use home _ text-books. Outdoor classes, ocean bathing throughout winter. Board- ing and day school departments. October to_ June. 1053 Brickell Avenue Miami, Florida

Page 32

VOGUE PACIFIC COAST SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS CENTRAL STATES The Kenwood Loring §c%99! A boarding and day school in the finest residence section of Chicago. College preparatory and general courses. Write for catalog. Stella G. Loring & Lois C. Morstrom, Principals. 4600 Ellis Ave., Chicago ’Phone Oakland 073 LINDENWOOD COLLEGE A Standard Coliege for Young Women with Classical, Vocational, Music, Art and Expression Departments. 114 acres of campus for outdoor sports, Golf, Hockey, Tennis. 50 minutes from St. Louis. Catalogue upon application. J. L. ROEMER, President, Box 423, St. Charles, Mo. FERRY HALL Coliege preparatory, gen- eral high school and ad- vanced courses. Also special instruction in music, expression and domestic arts and sciences. Located in a well-known residence suburb on the shore of Lake Michigan, twenty-eight miles from Chicago. For catalog address Miss Eloise R. Tremain, Prin., Box 326, Lake Forest, III. THE ANNA HEAD SCHOOL Boarding and Day School for Girls. High School graduates admitted without examination to all colieges using accrediting system. Students prepared for college board examinations. Post gradu- ate, primary and intermediate departments. Cheer- ful, homelike school with outdoor life year round. Address Miss Mary E. Wilson, Prin. Box C Berkeley, Calif. The Bishop’s School For Girls. Upon the Scrippe Foundation. Inter- mediate, General and College Preparatory courses, Musie. Art. Outdoor life. Athletic sports. 16 miles from San Diego. Catalog. Caroline Seely Cummins, A.M., Vassar, Headmistress. Box 12, La Jolla, Cal. Westlake School for Girls College preparatory, advanced courses, Music, Art, Expression and Domestic Science. Separate depart- ment for younger girls. Spacious grounds permit all sports. Swimming pool. Tennis courts. Catalog. Box U, 333 S. Westmoreland Ave., Los Angeles, Cal. BOYS’ SCHOOLS NEW ENGLAND | NEW ENGLAND WORCESTER. ACADEMY 8 Bors oF asusry WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS WITH COLLEGE VISION WESTMINSTER SCHOOL Simsbury,. Conn. RAYMOND R. McORMOND, Headmaster NEW YORK CITY Li SAINT JOHN’S SCHOOL,MANLIUS College Preparatory Among the hills, 11 miles from Syracuse. Elaborate equipment. A happy school life, with well ordered recreation and athletics. Essentially a college preparatory school. Graduates now attending 51 colleges. Military feature se- cures precision and promptitude. Business vourse. Also Junior School for boys 10 to 14. 35 years under present management. Mid- year registration in January. Catalog. Address General William Verbeck President Box = Manlius, CASCADILLA ~ oJ Be wed School for Boys. on. Small classes. Athletics. Weli-known —— crew. Enrollment 100. Wri for catalogs. The Cascadilla Sehools, Box 124, Ithaca, N. Y. New York, Tarrytown-on- Hudson Irving School f for Boys 25 miles from New York, in the beau- tiful, historic ‘‘Irving’’ country. years under present Headmaster. Extensive grounds. Modern and complete equipment. colleges and technical schools. Athletic field. Swim- ming Pool. Gymnasium. Rev. J. M. Furman, L.H. D., Headmaster, oa 288. St. Johns School OSSINING -ON-HUDSON, N.Y. for College and Business. Athletics. A.M., Prepares Boys classes. Military training. scnooi for boys under 13. William Addison Ranney, THE STONE SCHOOL On Storm King Mountain, 50 Miles from New York Preparation for College or Business Life. Small classes. Separate Lower School for Boys 9 te 12. For catalog and book of views address ALVAN E. DUERR, Headmaster Cernwall-on-H udson New York S T PA U Py S 154 Stewart ‘eg ; ae Garden City, L. 1., N. Y. ‘Episcopal boarding school (boys). Coil " Prep. course (4 yrs.) for boys who have finished Gram- mar School. Junior Dept. (grades 5 to 8). Fire- proof. All athletics. Resident chaplain and nurse. Single rooms, $1200. L.1.R.R. 40 min. from N.Y. City Prin. Allen- Chalmers A Country School for Boys Military Regularity. Upper and Tower Schools. Thomas Chalmers, West Newton, Mass. CARMEL HALL A boarding and day school for boys. Small classes. Careful supervision. Athletics. General education. College preparation, Special tutoring. Moderate rates. > - Cc E, Headmaster 695 Park Avenue, Bridgeport, Conn. EASTERN ATLANTIC ‘TOME SGHOOL FOR BOYS The most beautiful and best equipped school in America. College Board Standards. Single Rooms Individual Advisers. All Forty -five boys entered college last fall. —— Peabody Brush, Ph.D., Director, Rate $1100. Port Deposit, Md. For the all-around edu- | cation of manly _ boys. 87th year. 31 | Prepares for all | Small | Separate | ee sports. 60-acre ampus. Prepares for col- lege and business life. “Moderate rates. Lower School for boys from 10 to 14. Roger W. Swetland, Headmaster, Box 12V, Hightstown, N. J. FREEHOLD 28%: SCHOOL for boys 7 to 15. am military training—in culeates obedience, orderliness, self-reliance. The school with the personal touch. Catalog. Address Major Chas. M. Duncan, Box 129, Freehold, N. J. ST. LUKE’S SCHOOL Wayne (Main Line P.R.R.), Pa. Healthful location, homelike buildings. Mental and physical instruction, high moral influence makes unusual appeal to parents and boys. Junior school for younger boys. Prepares for college or business. Charles Henry Strout, A.M., Headmaster. MILITARY BORDENTOWN WMigiTary Thorough preparation for college or business. Efficient faculty, small classes, individual attention. Boys taught how to study. year. Catalog. Colonel T. D. Landon, Principal ond Commandant, | Drawer C-13, Bordentown-on-the-Delaware, N. J. CENTRAL STATES LAKE FOREST Non-Military College Preparatory Academy for Boys. Near Chicago. All Athletics. Endowed. Cata- log: J. W. Richards, Box 150. Lake Forest. III. NORTHWESTERN MILITARY AND NAVAL ACADEMY 70 mi. from Chicago, An endowed College Preparatory School and Junior College. In distinctive advan- tages and methods interest discriminating parents Col. R. P. Davidson, Pres.,; Lake Geneva, Wisc. SOUTHERN STEXVESANT Virginia Warrenton, Limited to 50. EDWIN B. KING, M.A. (Yale), Headmaster STAUNTON MILITARY ACADEMY Private academy preparing for Universities, Govern- ment Academies, Business. Gymnasium, Swimming pool, all athletié§. $600,000 plant. Charges, $650. Col. Thos. H. Russell, B.S., Pres., Box V (Kable Station), Staunton, Va. A COUNTRY SCHOOL IN FLORIDA Individual tutoring for definite requirements. N ern faculty. Best food. Riding; swim- ming, ete. Address for pamphlet FARM AND BEACH SCHOOL, Wayne E. Connor (Prince- ton 1911), New Smyrna, Florida. Preparation for all colleges. Catalog | THE SNYDER SCHOOL Fall and Spring in Mountains—Winter, January to March, Florida. College Preparatory and General Courses. Separate Group for young boys. Clarence Elmer Snyder, A. M., 935 Fine Arts Building, Chicago, Ill. MILITARY ULVER ACADEMY For catalog address The Inquiry Bureau, Culver, Ind PACIFIC COAST URBAN MILITARY ACADEMY California’s most beautiful school, highest scholarship, thorough character training, completely equipped playgrounds, swimming pool, horsemanship, golf, band, radio, all athletics. In session all year. Summer camp. enroll any time. Address the Dean, Hancock Park, Los Angeles, Cal. Costume Design Millinery Design Fashion Illustration Registration now going on. Oldest, largest, most famous school. More graduates in high-salaried positions than all other schools combined. Individual instruction. Limited enrollment—so call or write for information early. Also home- study courses. Emil Alvin Hartman Studio 21 Off Fifth Ave. 4 East 53rd Street, New York City 1432 N. Broad Street Philadelphia, Pa DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- sale, retail or home use Day and evening classes. Call or write for particulars. McDowell Dress- making and Millinery School. Established 1876. No Branches. The Marjorie Webster School | of Expression and Physical Education 2-year Normal course, 1-year Professional course wooed semester opens February 4.) — and Night School. Dormitory. Catalo 1415-V Massachusetts Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. for Physical The Sargent School ‘tsccsics Established 1881 Booklet on request D. A. SARGENT L. W. SARGENT Cambridge 38, Mass. '880 Seguin School 1923 For Backward and Mentally Deficient Children Limited to 25 pupils, girls, young women and boys under 12. No epileptics nor insane. Ten teachers, five governesses. Large grounds adjoining 50-acre park. Tuition and board from Sept. to June, $1800. Sum- mer school in mountains June to Sept., $400. Mrs. E. M. Seguin, Principal, Orange, N. J. THE BANCROFT SCHOOL For children whose development has not pro- gressed normally —FORTIETH YEAR— Winter School near Philadelphia, Summer Camp in Maine. Fifty-four acres of ground, twenty-six buildings, sixty-eight employees, in- cluding twelve teachers and twenty-eight gov- ernenees, Farrington, M.D. Address Box 145 svesie Coulson Cooley Haddonfield, N. J. The Restoration School Normal home life and expert, individual teaching provided for not more than ten children, in a healthful and attractive country place. Address Professor Lightner Witmer Devon, Pa. MISS WOODS SCHOOL For Exceptional Children Individual training to develop children not pro- gressing satisfactorily. 24 miles from Phila. Booklet. E WOODS HARE, Principal Box 169 Pa. THE FREER SCHOOL For girls of retarded development. Limited enrollment permits intimate care. 9 miles from Boston. Miss Cora E. Morse, Principal, 31 Park Circle, Arlington Heights, Mass. For Subnormal A Southern School “ciiae: A home school for a limited number of children. Beauti- fuloldsouthern mansion. Largelawns. Sleeping porch. All modern improvements. Ideal climate. Moderate rates. Bristol-Nelson School, Murfreesboro, Hawley School of Development For. Nervous and Retarded Children. Soqkeion in Eurythmics and Speech Correction. English and Art Classes. Limited number. Marion L. Hawley 53 Strawberry Hill Tenn. Stamford, Conn. FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE SCHOOL NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE BACKWARD CHILDREN Katonah, N. ¥Y.—42 Miles from N. Y. In Beautiful Westchester Hills. Rudolph 8. Fried, Principal. DEVEREUX SCHOOLS Berwyn, Pennsylvania OY NIQUE IN PURPOSE PROGRESSIVE IN wetnooe Three separate tutoring schools for children who need scientific observation and guidance. Box V. 58 West 40th Street, N. Y. | DRAWING. DESIGN = CARTOONIN Gx ‘YOU MAY FEEL THE PRESSURE OF EXAC- TING INSTRUCTION WAHILE IN OUR_S STUDIOS; YOU WILL HAVE THE PLEAS ~ URE OF A PROFITABLE PRO~ FESSION WHEN YOU GO OUT. DRESS DESIGN * FASHION ILLUSTRATION CARTOONING * COMMERCIAL ART ARTS OF THE STAGE « INTERIOR= DECORATION * (NOUSTRIAL ART NORMAL ART » HANDICRAFTS * (LLUSTRATION * PAINTING * Yor Details & Reservations Write The CHICAGO ACADEMYSFINE ARTS CARL NN. WERNTZ - OIRECTOR 8I EAST MADISON STREET CHICACO =» NOISIG AWNL/IOO » LAY AVIDUIWNWOD «= ONILNIVd AN DICRAFTPS = FAPHION DRAWING = | DseNOiILVAIOOIIG BOISBIZINI Distinctive Millinery is the Mark of a Well Dressed Woman Learn to create your own exclusive styles in a thoroughly practical and well-equipped school, under the personal direction of an expert. Completion of course permits fulfilling respon- sible, lucrative positions. Day and Evening Classes, Booklet upon request. ADELAIDE MILLER STUDIO 20 WEST FORTY-NINTH STREET NEW YORK CITY (Just off Fifth Avenue) THEGARLAND SCHOOL oF HOMEMAKING Booklet on training for efficient home making. Mrs. Margaret J. Stannard, Director 2 Chestnut Street. Boston, Mass. THE ERSKINE SCHOOL Offers training in Arts, Vocations, Business to College and High School Graduates. MISS E. E. McCLINTOCK 129 Beacon St., Boston Traphagen Co-operative School of Fashion Write for announcement V. Address ETHEL TRAPHAGEN Bryant Sy oy Studio Building 80 West 40th New York Intensive Course in DRESS DESIGNING MUSEUM OF FRENCH ART French Institute in the U. S. 599 Fifth Ave. (at 48th St.), New York Information and advice i in all matters pertaining to schools or schooling given gladly and freely to all who ask it. THE CONDE NAST SCHOOL SERVICE 21 West 44th Street New York City SCHOOL of DESIGN and LIBERAL ARTS 212 West 59th Street, N. INTERIOR SECORATION Lectures and practical demonstrations by aad rege decorators on period styles, color, rniture, fabrics. Four months’ intensive practical training courses. LOWTHORPE A School of Landscape Architecture for Women. Amy L. Cogswell, Principal, Groton, Mass. RUSSELL SAGE COLLEGE Founded by Mrs. Russell Sage in connection with Emma Willard School. A School of Practical Arts. Secretarial Work and Household Economics. B.A. and B.S. Degrees. Address Secretary. Russell Sage College, Troy, N. Y. AND APPLIED ART Felix Mahony, Pres. Interior Decoration: Costume, Commercial Poster & Textile Design. Illustration and Life, etc. Catalog. Connecticut Ave. an St., Washington, D. C THE CAMBRIDGE SCHOOL DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE and LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

Page 33

o by December Il I SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS | MASTER INSTITUTE SCHOOL “the | = | OF UNITED ARTS THEATRE USIC_—PAINTING— SCULPTURE RTA- POVITC NRGHITEC TURE-——OPERA CLASS Threshold Playhouse BALLET ——DRAMA ROTOR ES F ‘ —‘*To Open the Door to Beauty’’— : The “Incomparable School DIRECTORS Send for Catalogue V Of the Art of Dan Clare Tree Major Frank Craven ___ 310 _ Riverside Drive, New York City _ | omy? Walter Hampden Elsie Ferguson . George Arliss Ernest Truex Students play six nights and tw t ENDORSED BY Mme. ANNA PAVLOWA woskay for ate months woe alli Be on Pee, fessional Directors Only—Scenic Design—Pro- N.Y. SCHOOL OF FINE & APPLIED ART ‘ ‘ " ‘ duction—Dancing— Fencing —Pantomime—Volee Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. Wm. M. Odom, V. Pres. 1658 Broadway, Corner 5lst Street poreneinans > Shakespearean Reading. ete:— New York Paris London Florence New York Citv pte oe a ae ceruaeacselen hd init es: acta. Winter Term opens January 2nd. Register now. New term Jan. 18. Registration Limited. ‘ Only sony ae art — Ly a Vrite for Catalog to the Director | Landscape Architecture; Stage a ume Design; jf | CLARE TREE MAJOR D Sots :, Poster Advertisiag; Special Courses; Lectures. 1230 Fifth Avenue New York City istinctive adipdet ten. Soe Daaiiene, 1. ¥. | Personal SSESEEESSSESSESESESSESESS Stationery & |b = NOIVMIG JWNLIOOD =» rv AVIDUIWWOe 5 niLNIva kf} | [The NEW YORK. SCHOOL, of CHALIF INTERIOR DECORATION Russian School AMERICAN ACADEMY | Friends will eporeciate your thoughtful- f DANCIN 1 18 ring their own name {Ol PARK AVE -NEW YORK CITY Ya G OF DRAMATIC ARTS and address. No holiday, wen rt in more acce le. t Correspondence Courses “7 eae Founded by Franklin A. Sargert dainty. ae caheweasenceet aie Complete instruction in period erg ne: se tpl eel Since 1884 the Standard Institution of Dramatic the cost. styles, color harmony, furniture “ANNA Pa VLOWA and Expressional Training and Development Wolverine Stationery is the kind that arrangement, curtains, etc. Ama- of Personality for any calling in life suggests character and refinement. It is teur and professional courses. Catalog on request " é quality stationery for social and semi- Start at once. Send for Catalog V si-16 165 West 57th Street, New York|| New Winter Class Begins Jan. 15 business correspondence. Made of super- Extension Courses in Cooperation with of ‘an potent «ay wid-taneefully BOSTON SCHOOL of INTERIOR DECORATION COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY printed with any name ae Correspondence Courses Trust-e: three lines or less on _ lona raining Course. 7 c | F . — gearse ‘S—Tpomeatic Course—How to Plan Your NED WAYBURN | Eee ere. 200 Sheets and $499 Own House. a ak 100 Envelopes Enroll t limited—Write f P t ‘ ” pe: cl, aac Fe ie 1a, Daten Cowes Haniel, ee. | 8) oe ee IMustrated Catalog of all Courses from Size of sheets 6x7 inches, envelopes to - TLoom 251-L, CARNEGIE HALL, New York 4 n- THE ART STUDENTS LEAGUE OF NEW YORK|}|In Every Type of Dancing ee eee es, SSSSSISISSSS SSSSSSISS: Order several boxes—one for each of 48th year. Gomes i rion and. Gt Palntiog. __- i FFFTTF id . your friends. Write or print names and ait, St ustration an Somposition, . ino eee eee © eee t| — NED WAYBURN fanded Wf not satntectoeye 100 edd Arts under Joep west Sith Bt. New York. | Studios of Stage Dancing, Inc. / LV IE NE tional west of Denver. C. O. D. 10c — 1841 onions, N.W. Corner 6oth Street, | If c extra. Mail your order to : METROPOLITAN ART SCHOOL |] |‘ °° "No YuuCeay ot" S SCHOOL® e Wolueri ARTS—43 WEST a If NEW YORK n vere # 58 West 57th Street, New York City The Art of Color By Michel Jacobs now on sale. Drama Opera Speech Stationery Cn. Classes in Life—Portrait—Poster—Costume Design —Interior Decoration. Morning, afternoon, evening e Photo Play Stage Dancing Singin and Sunday. Portia Mansfield School Learn to act by acting. 27th Year. _— Dept B | Allegan, Mich. —— f Cla ic D : Concentration courses include actual stage ex- Oo ssic Vancing | perience and appearances at Alviene ars Theatre, . . eveloping poise, personality and good address. SCHOOL OF FINE ARTS Ppa oun Hane : graduating artists. 20 instructors. For catalog — —_—— _-—_—— rm AND CRAFTS I Berkeley, California write Sec’y, Room 22. Mention study desired. | 8 zs. ? nc. Normal and Professional Depts. E | ETN Be wy Now established in its own Summer session, Perry Mansfield NAUMOVA SCHOOL OF DANCING | ———___—_~ ie fan's » building, offers new and unusual Camp, Steamboat Springs, Colo. | Specializes in teaching Clubs and Schools. Studio | advantages for the study of the Send for booklet classes arranged. Ballroom dancing taught. Arts, For circular address Telephone Circle 0743 > # Gertrude L. — Mite Naumova ~ Miss KATHERINE B. CHILD, Director = : a eee of the Cases School of the Pavlowa Ballet Room 406, 349 Newbury Street, Boston, Mass. 4 West 50th St., New Yurk AUCH” WAITER BAM ER DRAMATIC ART ( Fann en tage art IRVINE. . Dramatic Art. ( weneral training for the stage. eacher of Alice = k 2 3 Ziegfeld Follies, John Cort. for Brady. Endorsed by Edith Wynne Matthison. | Ne Dillincham. Lee & J. J. } | Studio 31 Riverside Drive, New York. E Geo. M. Cohan, others. "Teacher Fe of oiegizen Milter, ay Edi hc b N S h | (| wins, Florence Walton and hun- | ie dreds of others. Catalog A Free it 0 urn oyes Cc 00 00 7th Ave.. N.Y. 8290 Circle] | Oral English, Drama, Character Education Mi uition i EDITH COBURN NOYES, Principal i Svmphony Chambers Boston, Mass. ( ea a TH School o Write for pooklet of informat n | GERTRUDE C. MOORE, ee Director 327. West 28th Street New York City VESTOFF SEROVA) Russian School of DANC Ballet, Classic—Interpretative—National and Ballroom—Dancing. LEWIS HOTEL TRAINING SCHOOLS WE TEACH “ Ae Bane yt. oaks Room 5613. Founded 1916 Washinaten, B.C. COMME RCIAL Classes—Private Lessons Normal Courses . PR AS tage Wn, a a 47 West 72nd St., N.Y.C. Tel. Endicott 62%2 BALLARD eee eee R O S E T T A ag N E I L i ESTABLISHED 51 YEARS Classic— National—Folk— DANCING SCH () OL 610 Lex. Ave., at 53d St. 66 Rhythmic— Ballroom a tral Branch Y.W.C.A. Use Your Spare Time **To Miss O’Neill I owe my success.”’ wan te 99 —Mrs. V Castl ~ —— wl a 746 Madison Ave., N. Y. Phone Rhinelander err0. MISS GON IN as eyer Bot ompany, the largest com- k mercial art organization in the field, ADELAIDE & HUGHES offers you a different and practical train- Siete ik teiions SECRETARIAL SCHOOL Nation-wide demand for trained ) women; all departments, hotels, clubs, apartment houses; ‘un- crowded field; fine living, quick advancement. Our methods en- dorsed by leading hotels _every- : where. iy for FREE Book, al “Your Big Opportunity.’ = SOS ~ ~ S S = with an (Idd-a =a REG.U.S. PAT. OFF, NECKLACE he family and friends will keep it growing Aldditional pearl for the Add-a-pearl necklace is | are sold only on this car TI Ra TT ing. If you like to draw, develop your - Classes f ll Classie Dancing. St D ‘ - talent. Study this practical course— ned. Aumateer seetiaumaneht tamed. Children’s Satur- 195 S West 49th St. New York taught by this widely knowninstitution, day classes, at acts. cnemntama classes. Catalog. with twenty-two years success—which 45 West 57th S Plaza 7635 SHORT-STORY WRITING A practical forty-lesson course in_ the | writing and marketing of the Short-Stery | taught by Dr. J. Berg Esenwein, Editor | each year produces and sells to adver- tisersin the United Statesand Canada |, I TA BARNETT over ten thousand commercial drawings. T Cop On ser erezeiseviensses=s '| erage | PtATFORE Spee sity—a highly 8 inbasesly Laberentinn pao. Emphasis on sie Ata — ~~ Pease ST fession, equally open to men and women. Speaking voice and Diction | Dr. Esenwein Le, 6. Tree Sorinsteld. ‘Mass. Home study instruction. Get facts before | Studio, 152 West 57th Street, New York Telephone Circle 1350 you enrollin hool. Write f illus- trated Book, “YOUR OPPORTUNLEY You can be quickly cured, if you | agar mline orcas TD STAM MER. SPEAKING VOICE DICTION Meyer Both Company STAGE : ind Pl ATF ORM | Send 10 cents for 288-page book on Stammering and Dept. of Art Instruction POOP aed inp Stuttering, “Its Cause and Cure.” It tells how I ae Me de fal INSTFUCTLO \ oy myself after stammering 20 y B.N. Bowe, | ¢/min wanna Sai a is | Michigan Ave., at 20th St., Dept. 32 CHICAGO, ILLs 13 GRAMERCY. PARK. NEW YORK ¢ “TTY, | 9107 Bogue Bidg., 1147 N. Ill. St, Indianapolis.

Page 34

28 Pewrre nS AND swrenrns , oe) KE Antiques WHOLESALE ONLY—Distinctive objects of mod erate price inciuding Old World and American Pottery—-Metal—Fabric—Wood—Glass—5 floors at Charles Hall, Inc., 18 West 23rd St., New York. Arts and Crafts CANADIAN HOMESPUNS, direct from looms of French habitants. Sampies, state colors. Murray Bay Blankets, tufted bedspreads, table covers, etc. Canadian Homespuns, Ltd., 347 Craig West, Montreal. A SHOP OF HIGH IDEALS Artistically unique batik, handweaving, dyeing, etc., for home and personal decoration. Unusual gifts. Bestcrafts,.7 East 39th St., N. Y. C. CANADIAN Handwoven HOMESPUNS, Blankets, Spreads. Headquarters for this work among French Canadian Peasantry. Samples. Canadian Handi- crafts Guild, 598 St. Catherine St. W., Montreal. SHRISTMAS SALE. Dec. Ist to 24th (otherwise by appointment). Distinctive gift linens, cunning bibs & supper-sets, hand executed small things. Bags. Studio of Edith Allen Hall, 171 W. 12th St.,N.Y. ORIGINAL IDEAS. Have an artist design exclu- sive gowns to suit you. Plan your table decorations for parties, or arrange your interior in a new apart- ment. Write for ideas. G. Holden, 22 W. 9th St., N.Y. Art-Linens L PURE LINEN—HAND-EMBROIDERED Ela borate Madeira Napkins, 13 in., $6.75 doz. Dain- tily Embroidered Madeira Luncheon Sets, 13 pieces, $6.75. Charming Italian Crash Linen 3 piece Break- fast Set, $5.95. Unusual Italian Colored Embroidered Towels, 18/28, $1.35. Effective Colored Border Huck- aback Towe!s, 18/ 34, $12.00 doz. Mail Orders am 2 Kerge’s, Circle 8670, 31 W. 50th St, N.Y. Art-Needlework EXCLUSIVE ITALIAN LINENS. Reticeilo Cutwork copied from psn antique designs, adapted to mod- ern uses. ner, Lunch, Tea, Bridge Tray ‘3 All’ artedel Line, 177 MacDougal St.nrWashn.Sq.N. Y ART EMBROIDERY: Original Designs, Gustomany’ Own Material; Parisian Hand Embroidery & Bead- ing; Machine Braiding; Beaded Gowns Rep. Whsl. & Rtl. Royal Art Emb. Co., 38 W. 34th St., N.Y RUSSIAN NOBILITY ART EMBROIDERY—Ex- quisite hand-workof Russian Refugees. Ladies’ & Chil- dren’s dresses. Christmas Gifts & Toys. Russian Ref- ugee Workshop, 106 W. 57th St., N.Y. Tel. Cirele 10163 Auction Bridge and Mah Jong LILLIAN SHERMAN RICE, 231 W. 96th St., N.Y. Author of Auction Bridge in a Nutshell. Private & classes. Game taught in 6 lessons. Also by mail. In- ferences. Concentration a specialty. Tel. 164 River. YOUR OWN NAME ON BRIDGE SCORES 250 officially ru'ed sheets, 6x9 in. Your name on each sheet. Postpaid anywhere, $2. Agents wanted. Beach Company, 904 Sycamore, Cincinnati, O. LIDA FISHER GILDER—140 West 57th Street. Auction Bridge (Whitehead System). Mah Jongs Private and class lessons for advanced students. Beginners tutored. Tel. Circle 3053. were STONES 0 Better Auction For the beginner and advanced player. ket edition of simple rules on Bidding & Play ‘odern experts compared on important points. An attractive gift or bridge prize. Price $1. Freda MacMahon, Box 227, Montclair, N.J MAH-JONGG RACKS. Red or black lacquer, gold dragons. Hold tiles ideal angle for play. Length & weight make wal! building easy. Doubling chart & wind position. $5.00 setof4. A.V.Scott, Red Bank, N.J. MAH JONG TASLE COVER—EFxcellent quality cream linen, colored embroidered ‘‘Chinese Charac- ters’’ in corners. Wi!l convert your bridge table. $2.00 each. L. Reiss Co., 152 West 42nd St., N. Y. MAH JONG TABLE COVERS Well made of green, heavy felt, to exactly fit any 30-inch card table top. Has ample, divided pockets on four sides to, hold counters. Convenient, practical, ideal gift. Shipped parcel post paid anywhere in U. S Send check $5.90 or Money Order. Beach Co., 902 Sycamore St., Cincinnati, O. MAH-JONG Rails—hard enamel, in sets: 3 jet black, 1 red $4.00. Lacquered 3 black and gold, 1 xed and gold $3.00. Score & doubling rt included. John H. Hawley, 15 E. 26th St., N.Y.C CARROLL STACK RACKS Enameled steel, the only ones that nest. Sets ~~ rad 3 black and — wind Green or Yel CARROLL COUNTER CONTAINERS (cireular) Hold counters vertically, 4 in set—colors match above East winds. Carroll Specialty Corp., Mnfrs., 25 West 44th St., N. Y. Tel. Murray Hill 8881. Babies’ Things HAND MADE baby garments by French needle- work artists. Fine materials. Dainty, exquisite. Domestic prices. Infants to 3 years. On approval. Conway's, 1200 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans. VIRGINIA’S AIR OF REFINEMENT reflected in handmade chikiren’s wear to 3 years. Layettes and French Bonnets specialty. No catalog. On ap- proval. Ideal Baby & Gift Shop, R ke, Va. HAND-WOVEN BABY BLANKETS in variety of designs and each in a picture box, making artistic BS A classified list of business concerns which we recommend to the patronage of our readers Advertising rates Shoppers’ & Buyers’ Guide, VOGUE, 19 West Forty-Fourth Street, New York given upon request Bazaars Beauty Culture—Cont. LILY’S BAZAAR, INC. A unique Shop owned and mauaged by gentlewomen who buy and sell women’s slightly used c!othing at unusual prices. 150 E. 54th St., N. Y. Plaza 5195. KATHERINE MACDONALD’S own preparations. “The Skin Foods of a Beauty,’’ $1.00 up. Booklet Free. Prepared by society’s facial expert. Mme. Calé, 101 West 74th St., N.Y. Endicott 10055 Beads and Beaded Bags You can’t a, a silk purse out of a sow’s ear Beach Bags For we. Be and Night _Joe Michel, Beads, 37 W. 39th St., N. Y. ~~ EXCLUSIVE MODELS MADE-TO-ORDER in silks, tapestries and _ brocades, Recoverings a specialty. Send for eatalog & prices. Wm. Nibur, 2432 B’way, N. Y. C. Schuyler 1518 REPAIRING OF SILK AND BEADED BAGS Frames for Beaded bags. Silk bags to order. Catalogue upon request. A. L. Workman, West 34th Street, N. Y. C. LADIES’ HAND BAGS especially appealing to women of taste. Charming designs made to order in velvet, silk, tapestry. Mounting & repairing of beaded bags. A. Groner, 2277 B’way, 81st-82nd Sts., N.Y. Beauty Culture DO YOU KNOW THE MUSCLE in your ~~ Bn prevents beauty? Learn to reise it and be young. Fora, 200 West 72nd St., N. Y. C. MME. MAYS Face Specialist. Est. 30 years. Per- manently removes wrinkles, freckles, scars, ete. Muscles tightened; endorsed by physicians. Bkit. One address: 50 W. 49th Bt... oF Bryant 9426. MARINELLO SH A Beauty Aid for baa dina. _ Marinello Experts in Attendance. Under direct supervision of Marinello Co. MARINELLO Western Expert Dept. Eastern Expert Dept. 804 Tower ag Bldg. 366 Fifth Ave., Suite 603 Chicago, Ill New York Madame Berthe’ s Zip positively destroys Hair with roots. No electricity or caustics. Free demonstra- tion at office. Write Free Book. Mme. Berthe, Specialist, 562-5th Ave. (46th St.), Dept. 8, N. Y. MME. JULIAN’S HAIR DESTROYER permanently eradicates all superfluous hair (with roots). No electricity or poison. Stood test 50 years. Mme. Julian 4 West 47th Street, N. Y. : SAGGING CHEEKS LIFTED Wrinkles smoothed out and the contour restored Device concealed by hair. Literature mailed free. Faceaid Studios, 1482 Broadway, New York. EYEBROWS & LASHES Permanently Attractive. Darken them with Coloura! Adds winsome expres- sion. Will not wash off. $1.20 ppd. ; treatment 50c at Spiro’s, 26 W. 38th St. and 24 W. 46th St., N.Y WRINKLES? BAUME RE d’ION restores by nature’s own method youth’s radiant firmness! Made ef oils which revitalize the skin without contracting it. Call or write. Leona Libbé, 182 ~ 58th St.. N.Y. SOMETHING NE Sara reducing cream for sowble chin. Satisfaction assured. $3.00 Jar. Sara, 665-5th Ave.. N Y. C. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR permanently removed by the painless method originated by Dr. Roebling Geyser, a licensed physician. This is the 14th year of its successful use. No electric needle or chemical used. Booklet sent in plain sealed en- velope upon request. Dr. meshing Geyser. 1 East 35th St., New York City 2001 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. COMPLEXOL—A perfect face cream; corrects un- healthy skin conditions, eradicates pimples and blackheads. Free samnvle upon application. Halsey Bros. Co.,.111 N. Wabash Ave.. Chicago, Tl. THE CLEAR EYES OF YOUTH—RBelle de nuit. a remarkable new cream which spread nightly beneath eyes. hanishes wrinkles and weariness. Jar 50c Mme. Gertrude Shyde, 649 Lexington Ave., N. Y. “The Original” MME. JULIA. MAYS, Face Specialist Est. 49yrs. Wrinkles, Sears, Freckles, etc., Permanent - ly Removed. ‘Eternal Youth’’ Treatments Endorsed by Physicians. Bkit. 32 W. 47 St., N. Y. Bry. 4856 MARJORIE mene ~~ and ALICE BRADY indorse Lucille Savoy Toiletries of Quality Blended Shades of Exquisite Poudre: beautifying complexions, $1.50 Box Postpaid. Lucille Savoy Orange Skin Food Rebuilds the Tissues. Liberal size jar. $1.50 Postpaid. Astor Theatre Bldg. (Times Sq.),N.Y. Chickering 6130 PREVENTS AND REMOVES WRINKLES Retain or regain Youth, Beauty and Charm I have made and used for over 35 years Physicians recommend it Mildred Helland Rejuvenating Cream Try It—Be Convinced—Or Money Refunded Large size $2.00 Postpaid Mildred Holland, 1425 Broadway, New York. DOROTHY SEDLEY’S PREPARATIONS No-wrinkle creme. Feeds & invigorates skin. Quickly removes lines of age. Ends sallow complexions. Price $3.50. Hotel Majestic, West 72nd St., N.Y.C. NOMA NIGHT BLOOMING BALM does its work at night. Removes lines, blackheads, large pores. 1.00. All Noma preparations sold at Altman & Co., or Prof. D’Irving, 535 W. 111th St., N. Y. All Women Are Beautiful who use Bertie’s Toilette preparations. Blackheads, pimples and enlarged pores rapidly disappear. Retain your youth. 3ertie, 23 West 50th Street, New York. Have clear Healthy New Skin. YOUTH-AMI Liquid Skin Peel removes blemished skin harm- lessly, painlessly. Booklet free. Youth-Ami Laboratories, Dept. VS, 30 East 20th St., N. Y. POUDRE LIQUID de Zéhtam (Russian Court Ori- gin). Unlike other liquid powders; not mask-like; beautifier & skin food. White, Flesh, Rachael, Henna, Moorish, Orchid, $3.00. Sold by Lord & Taylor, N.Y.; I. Magmin, San Francisco; Deihl Co., ‘Ville de Paris,’’ Los Angeles; Whisle. Zéhtam, 547 West Calif. Box 413. Santa Barbara; Marston Co., San Diego. End Ave., N. Y. Coronado Beach, LS. CREME AUX MARRONS, Bleaching, Nourishing, Beautifying. Made from milk of the big French Chestnuts. By mail $2. Booklet 7 request. _Mme. Héléne, 19 East 48th Street, New York. DELECTA BEAUTY PAC- TREATMENT tightens the muscles of the face & feeds the starved tissues. Jar sufficient for 12 treatments $5.00. Beauty Book- let free. Eve Becktel, 507-5th Ave., N.Y. Vand. 4 4943 STUDY HAIRDRESSING Manicuring & all branches of Beauty work. Have your own profitable business. New classes now form- ing. Hudson School of Beauty Culture, Auburn, N. , & BEAUTIFUL SKIN—Yours! Balm-o-Lem (lemon lotion) softens & whitens & is not sticky. Makes face powder stay twice as long. All good stores or by mail. Madame Berthe, Dept. B3, 562 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Books CHILDREN’S sees iN 108 BE. 57th St., N.Y.C. Books! Books!!! Xmas orders ee Nandled by Marian Cutter. Catalog with New Book List Forty-five Cents. Boudoir Accessories Pajamas and Lounge Large assortment Marie, Maison P'aza 4432. TEA GOWNS, Negligees, covers. Latest French creations. of mules. Prices reasonable. Mile. Francaise, 547 Madison Ave., N. Y. C. Candies & Delicacies McNALLY-DOYLE of Cleveland mail anywhere their delicious Assorted Chocolates & LBonbons. Spe- cially packed & priced at $1, $1.25 & $1.50 per lb. in attractive one, two and five-pound boxes. WILMAR’S CANDIES cooked at home by an expe- rienced candy-maker. They possess that exquisite taste not found in ordinary confectionery. Assorted chocolates, the kind that you can’t stop eating. Carame!s that melt in your mouth. Glazed fruits tasting of juicy freshness. Special lollypops in anirhal shepes which will delight children’sparties. Sample box of any kind, or assorted box $1. 315 W. 58th St., N.Y. FROM SUNNY CALIFORNIA 5-lb. redwood box assorted sun-dried pears, apricots, peaches, raisins, prunes. $4.00 postpaid. Sun-Dried Fruit Co., Oakland, Cal. ELSIE FERGUSON FRUIT CAKE The Aristocrat of Good Things to Eat Elsie Ferguson’s Own Recipe of genuine old-fashioned home-made _ cake. $2.00 per lb. parcel post prepaid. Elsie Ferguson Fruit Cake Co., _Warrenton, Virginia. | Children’s Things—Cont. SMALLCLOTHES, GENESEO, N. Y. Picturesque little suits and frocks for well-dressed children. Beautifully made of the best materials at moderate prices. Illustrated description by mail. DAINTY FROCKS FOR CHRISTMAS PARTIES and Christmas Gifts for girls of 14 and under, The Children’s Shop (of Richmond, Va.), 20 E. 46th St., N.Y.c. MARY MOORE hand-made wash — ie sold direct if not handied in your city. 2 to 8 $5, $6, $7. Approval shipments to ainda pontine William Moore Co., Davenport, Iowa. CHILD’S GREATEST GIFT Nursery or play room designed and furnished to suit the individuality of ian * child by Lurelle Guild, 253 Madison Ave., N. C. Murray Hill 9295 HUNGARIAN pieesas for girls from 2 to 10 years. Exquisite Peasant Embroidery, Cross stitch- ing and smocking, $3.50 to $6.00. Assortments on approval. Handwork Shop, Poughkeepsie, N. Y. FLORENCE et FELICITE, 693 Madison Ave., N.Y, Late with Mossé, Ine. Girls’ dresses Hats & Coats Rompers and up to 16 yrs. to order Boys’ Suits Chintzes THE CHINTZ SHOP 431 Madison Ave., at 49th Street, New York. Everything in Chintz, Linen and Cretonne. Imported & Domestic. Samples Submitted. Christmas Cards & Gifts COPLEY CRAFT HAND-COLORED CARDS Christmas and Everyday Lines now ready. 300d verses. Shops write for samples. Jessie H. MeNicol, 18 Huntington Ave., Boston, Mass. PERSONAL ENGRAVED CHRISTMAS CARDS, exclusive designs, magnificent assortment, delivered anywhere, send for samples at once. Everett Waddey Co., 5 So. 11th St., Richmond, Va. CLARE ART-CHRISTMAS & EVERYDAY CARDS for Hand Coloring, 35 for $1.00. Distinctive line Hand Colored Cards. Prices submitted. Jaeque'ine 27 Kerwin Street Dorchester. Mass. THE DREKA CO., 1121 Chestnut St., Phila., Pa. Originated beautiful Christmas Cards showing pictures of Homes, Interiors, Children, Hobbies. Samples and Sketches submitted. 15 Assorted, STEEL-ENGRAVED CHRISTMAS cards, $1.00. You pay 15 cents each elsewhere for same cards. Cash with order. Dent. V. Virginia Stationery Co., Richmond, Va. RAENAR FOX—100 Fifth Avenue, N.Y. As a special Xmas. offering this year I am putting out a magnificent leather box containing 200 cigarettes, and one containing 500 cigarettes, beautifully lined throughout with heavy white satin, and the cigarettes bearing any monogram or other device. 200 Box—$7.50; 500 Box—$15.00. Cigarettes MISS RAENAR FOX—100-5th Ave, N.Y. Made-to-order Egyptian cigarettes with your mono- gram in any device. All tips. Exquisite individuality. $12.50 for 500 & $3.00 for 100. Assorted Sample 30c Cleaning and Dyeing KNICKERBOCKER CLEANING & DYEING CO. High class cleaners and dyers. Main office 402 E. 3ist St., N. Y. C. Braneh offices in N. Y. City, also White Plains, New Rochelle, Newport & Paris. SADLEIR’S EXPERT SERVICE. Dry Cleaning & Dyeing, garments, fabrics, gloves, ete. Fancy Dyeing. laces, chiffons, feathers, satin slippers to match. Mail orders. Catalog. Sadleir, 17 W. 34th St., N.Y. LEWANDOS Cleaners Dyers Largest in America Established in 1829 10 West 18th Street New York LEWANDOS Cleaners Dyers 284 Boylston Street Boston 1901 Chestnut Street Philadelphia Shops in all large Eastern Cities ST. DENIS—MAISON FRANCAISE—Fine gowns & house-furnishings cleaned & dyed by French Ex- pert. Prompt service, courteous treatment & moderate price. 663 Lexington Ave., . Plaza 1689. Tea THE SILVER BOX Soda 730 Madison Ave., at 64th St., N.Y. Rhine. 6364. Distinctive sweets ‘in smart boxes, Gift Baskets, Can- dies, Glacé fruits, Jams. Price list Postage Prepaid. PRINCESS MARY FRUIT CAKE—1! East 58th English and Virginia recipe. Real aes cui fruit cake, in half, one, two and five pound boxes; for $1.00, $1.50, $2.75, $6.00 Corsets and Brassiéres MME. S. SCHWARTZ—Now 36 W. 57th St., N.Y. formerly 11 East 47th Street. Custom made and all novelties in Corsets for the Woman of fashion. Children’s Things GOSSARD FRONT LACED CORSETS FITTED by experienced corsetieres, $3.50 up. Retail only Brassieres fitted. Phone Ashland 6642. Olmstead Corset Co., 179 Madison Ave., at 34th St TOTS TOGGERIE,634-5thAve. Tel. Circle9708-9709 Outfitters to Children of all ages. Coats and Hats Made to Order a Specialty. Charming Styles and Superior Workmanship. GOSSARD CORSET FITTING PARLOR, 601 Mad. Ave., N.Y., at 57th St. Fitted by Gossard Corsetieres at shop or residence. Corsets to order. Mail orders by measurement solicited. Plaza 4949. De Rohan, Prop. KILL THE HAIR ROOT My method prevents hair from growing again. Fasy, painless, harm'ess. No sears. Bonklet free. D. J. Mahler, 571-A Mahler Park, Providence, R.I. FACIAL TREATMENT—V. V. The symbol of Science, assigned to the Beauty Potion de Luxe of a'l times and all countries. If you know its va'ue send $10 for full treatment. If you would know it write for particulars. Supply denge limited—Delay unadvicable gifts. Launder beautifully. Write for particulars. The Tenafly Weavers, Tenafly, N. J. NANA, LTD. 24 East 66th Street, New York Infants’ and Children’s Dresses made to individual order 1F YOU MUST REDUCE, adopt the famous Margaret Lillie corset. Custom made. Reduces hips 3 to 7 inches or no charge made. Only one shop, 47 W. 42d St., New York. Longacre 9012 NANCY-PAM FROCKS 25 East 48th St., N.Y. Phone, Murray Hill 4169 Little Girls’ Dresses of fascinating originality and exclusive design. Ready to wear, or to order. LOUISE GREENWOOD—CORSET EXPERT French & Domestic Corsets Copied. Made to Order. Elastic Corsets. Expert Fitter sent to residence. Mail your Corset in for estimate. 509-5th Av. Longacre 8173 THE CRAWFORD SHOPS, 512 Park Ave., N.Y. Christmas toys; frocks and suits for the youngsters. Send for attractive catalog of Christmas gifts for Salon Viennese—48 West 55th Street, New York children and others. VIAU FRENCH CORSETS: The New Step-in Corset: Brassieres and Rubber corsets special to or- der. Specializing _ Corsets & ea for stout women. Viau, 39 W. 34th St., N.Y. Fitzroy 3562 VOGUE GUIDE Qa ata Ginette a

Page 35

December Il 29 Corsets and Brassieres—Cont. Flesh Reduction—Cont. CORSETIERE—MME. CLAFF SHOULE Corsets and Brassieres made-to-order in 48 hours. Ready-to-wear corsets for street, sport and evening wear. 12 E. 48th St. Murray Hill 13826. EVERY WOMAN should have her corset made just for Herself. Consult Mary Jean, Elastic Specialist, 562 Fifth Avenue, N. Y. (at 46th St.) WHY NOT BE WELL CORSETED? Without wearing a corset! The Howd Uti:ity Beit gives that ‘slender, supple appearance so essential to perfect grooming. $7.50 50 up. Rondeau, Corsetiere, 561 Mad. Ave., N.Y. CENTRAL CORSET HOSPITAL, 500 Sth Ave., N.Y. Room 418. Te:ephone Longacre 8173. Every description of Corset Ttemodelled, Copied or Cut down. Made like new. Damageson ClothingMadeI nvisible MOTH-HOLES, Tears, Burns on garments made invisible by re-weaving. Shine on ciothing perma- nentiy removed. Guarantee Damage Weaving Co., 146 - Sth Ave., bet. 19th & 20th Sts.. N. Y. Dancing 9 E. 59th St. HELENE L. SWENEY UN. Y. City Expert in Modern Dances, teaching gentlemen to lead, ladies to follow; correcting all faults. Special Normal Course. Diplomas. Plaza 8612 ETUDE de DANSE Tango—modern—ballroom dances Private or class lessons. Bryant _4562. 26 West 47th St. mM. ¥. €. STAGE ‘DANCING. Original, newest dances taugiit by Walter Baker, former dancing master for Ziegfeld Follies, Geo. M. Cohan, John Cort and Dillingham. 900-7th Avenue, N. Y. Circle 8290 SHELTON DEWEY Modern dance expert and authority. Private or class lessons. By appointment. 267 Madison Ave., | N.Y. Tel. Murray Hill 5397 LOUISE MORGAN Latest Tango, Fox Trot, Waltz, Children’s Classes in Ballet, a ty ng Social evening subscription dances. 233 V 72d St., N.Y., "Phone Endicott 6867 Diamonds and Platinum OHN PATTEN 105 West 40th Street New York will reset your solitaire in our newly designed platinum mounting eae yy four diamonds for the shanks for $45.0 (This mounting sold by retail jewelers i $75.00.) Send us your discarded jewelry and have us submit designs for remount- ing. Often the expense is trifling as the old metal or an un-needed stone will cover the cost of the new mounting. Established 1896. Employment Agencies LAZARE en. INC., 624 MADISON AVE. N. . (59th St.) Plaza 9023. A national instivation supplying a discriminating clientele with superior domestic help. Entertainment PUNCH & JUDY SHOW, for Children’s narties, including sleight of hand and magic tricks and ventriloquism. _ Ambrose Jeffries, 44 Eldert St., Brooklyn, Telephone Foxcroft 3575 Children’s ENTERTAINMENT Bureau. Let us take charge of your children’s party, plan program, furnish entertainers, do your shopping, decorating & amusing. 70 KE. 45th St., N.Y. Room 2636. Mur. Hill 4043. MAGIC TRICKS—PUNCH & JUDY SHOW The greatest funmaker for parties, presented by one of New York’s best Children’ A Entertainers. Chas. Winters, 1 158 E. 88th St., N. ¥. Lenox 6672 SUGGESTIONS FOR ae HOSTESS Parties planned for grown-ups and Tiny Tots. Favors, menus for all entertaining. No catalog. Write Lenette Friedlander, 68 E. 86th St., N. Y. C. Fancy Dress and Costumes “PRIZE WINNING COSTUMES” Modern—Fantastic—Period For Rent or Sale—To Order or From Stock. Bayer- Schumacher, 67-69 W. 46th St., N.Y. Bryant 1834. BEHRENS MASQUERADE & THEATRICAL Costumes. Exclusive designs in fancy dress made- to-order and rented. Behrens Costume Co., 120 W. 48th St., N. Y. Bryant 4437 COSTUMES to ORDER For sale or rent Paul Arlington, Ine. 107 West 48th Street, N. Bryant 6130-6131. BROADWAY THEATRICAL COSTUME CO. Original ideas for Bal-Masque Costumes to order or for rent Telephone Bryant 3440. 116 W. 48th St., N.Y.C. BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM METHOD Obesity, Kheumatism, Neuritis, Con- stipation, Colonic irrigations, Fallen Arches. Most modern electrical and mechanical appiiances used. Send for descriptive booklet. ltoss Institute of Physio-Therapy 300 Madison Ave., N. Y. Tel. Vanderbilt 6290 A BOOKLET BY DR. DENSMORE on treatment for reduction of Corpulency will be mailed without charge — _ request to Dep Garfield” Tee Co., 313-41st Street Brooklyn, N. Y. MARVELOUS NEW WAY TO TAKE OFF unsightly fat. Ambassador Method secret of American & Parisian beauty. Specialists work on new principle. Amesing results. Mme. Jeanette, Dept. C, 249 W. 34th St., N.Y FLORENCE WOODLEY—ELECTRO REDUCING Scientific Electrical Treatment. Endorsed by leading physicians. Results quick, absolutely safe. No pain or semi-starvation. Vand. 2340, 507th 5th Ave., N.Y. FINLANDIA HEALTH STUDIO. Reduces weight & successfully treats sciatica & neuritis; gymnasts & massage. Colon irrigation, eiectric light baths, ete. 11 E. 45th St., N. Y Phone Mur. Hill 3068. Furniture & Furnishings for Home WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS. Ideal trousseau gifts. Made only on order, Finest materials used. Illustrated booklet V_ sent on request. Wilkinson Sisters, Ligonier, Ind. BEDROOM, DINING ROOM & LIVING ROOM Furniture direct from factory at remarkable sav- ings. ‘Tremendous stocks; beautiful displays. Visit us when in New York. Ruder Bros., 18 K. 48th St. ALNWICK BEDSPREADS. Exquisite old designs worked by hand on durable material. Require no iron- ing. Made to measure without extra charge. Assort- mentonapproval, Handwork Shop, Poughkeepsie, N.Y. HAND QUILTED COMFORTERS--scalloped edges, finest materials, lambs’ wool filling. Made to order any size. Write—samples & booklet—to Eleanor Beard, Hardinsburg, Kentucky SEMI-MADE BEDSPREADS, curtains, etc. Ex- clusive designs. Best quality material. _ Silk, Linen or Cotton. Size and color to order. Community Craft Studios Englewood, N. Gowns & Blouses Made-to-Order —Continued RUSSIAN AND CHINESE EFFECTS Artistic Gowns and Biouses exquisitely designed with Peasant embroidery and cross stitching. Emelin, 34 West 47th Street, N. Y. Bryant vo13 Jewelry & Precious Stones—Cont. THE WOMAN JEWELER—Specializes in fine gems, sae ° and repairs. Express your personality in our jewelry. Purchases made abroad. Olga iritt, Heckscher Bidg., 730-5ih Ave.. New York FOR HOME DRESSMAKING Send 25ce for Vogue's new ‘“‘smart dressmaking class on paper’’ helpful ideas of the professional. 19 'W. 44th St., N.Y. Gowns and Blouses Ready-to-Wear THE FAN-MORE SPECIALTY SHOP Frocks combining the mode of the day with econ- omy. For afternoon, street, and evening wear. Tea gowns of unusual chic. 31 West 50th St.. N.Y Gowns Remodeled “THE MENDING SHOP.” Gowns Tailored, Suits Remodeled up-to-date. Shop Blouses and *Gowns Refitted. Miss H. Redding Coughlin, 17 E. 48th St., N. Y. No Brancies. Phone 5v62 Murray Hill. E. & S. MEARES will remodel your old gowns in the latest and advanced styles. Also gowns to order. Original ideas. 134 West 81st St., N. Y. Tel. Schuyler 1995, MY RE-BUILDING OF GOWNS IS THE TALK of New York, because I make creations out of gowns that seem hopeless. Prices reasonable. Atalanta Homer, Ltd.,37 W. 48 St., N.Y. Bryant 1441 Hair Coloring Bryant 1376-—WE PAY CASH—Bryant 1376 For Diamonds, Pearls, Precious Stones, Silverware, Old Gold, Silver, Platinum. Unlimited oe tal at - Disposal. FULL VALUE & HIGHEST PRICES | guaranteed. Bank and Society References. Mme. Furman, 101 W. 47th St., N.Y., Bryant 1376. Oldest, Largest, Most Reliable Establishment. Diamonds, Pearls, Gold, Silver, Platinum, also Pledges bought, Estates Appraised, P Rose & Co., Suites 63-64, 542 Fifth Ave. St.), New York. Tel. Vanderbilt 1022 MRS. T. LYNCH’S SON buys diamonds, pearls, old gold, jewelry and silverware. Oldest house in New York. We specialize in buying silver. Estab- lished 1844, 227 W. 42d St., N.Y. Chickering 1439 AYRE AND TAYLOR, INC., 2 W. 43d ST., N.Y.C. purchase Jewellery, Pearls and Precious. Stones from responsible individuals and estates. ses ing by experts. Courtesy, Privacy Jewelry and Silverware Bought CASH FOR JEWELRY, Diamonds, Gems, Gold, Silver, new or broken. Prices now exceptionally high. Established 40 years. Mme. Naftal, 69 West 45th St., New York. Tel. Bryant "670 Ladies’ Tailor PAULA MORGAN will restore your hair to its natural shade in a short time. Scientific face mas- sage. Invisible transformations, switches, etc. Paula Morgan, 816 6th Aves ae? MME. FRIED’S HAIR SHO Special sale on all imported French cciniiliibindie tions. We specialize in hair coloring. 25 years in business. 21 West 34th Street, N. Y. MAISON ALEX—restores grey or discolored hair, quickly & harmlessly with vegetable compound. Also specializes in all forms of Ry trouble. Consulta- tion & advice free. 105 W. 43d St., N.Y. Bryant 5556 PREMATURELY GREY HAIR RESTORED | with one application of André’s Oriental Coloring. Gives the hair a soft, glossy, youthful appearance. Price $2.00. André, bya West 39th Street, N.Y. Furs EXPERT FUR REMODELING & REPAIRING in latest styles. Reasonable prices. Special atten- tion also given to out-of-town orders. Est. 1886. Hirshfeld Fur Co., Ine., 71 West 46th St., N.Y.C. Hair Goods MANUEL—The originator of the Modern Trans- formation and Sight-Proof Parting. Specialist in all kinds of hair goods. Booklet on request. Manuel, 29 East 48th St., N. Y. City. BUY DIRECT from the manufacturer Latest Styles. Bottom prices. Write for catalog and discount. Herman Reel Co. Milwaukee, Wis. ~ COATEES, COATS, WRAPS & SCARFS of every desirable fur. Unusually low prices. Remodeling, best workmanship guaranteed. Rosner Bros., 396-5th Ave., N. Y. (Take Elevator) HENRY’S HAIR SHOP oifers a great reduction on imported French transformations. Not over $30. Also specializing in hair coloring. Henry’s personal attention. 17 West 34th St., N. Y. Fitzroy 1209 TO REST YOUR HAIR, and for added charm, wear a Transformation with the life-like parting, as developed by Louis Parme 18 West 57th St., N 1 ee 2 Phone | Circle 4956 HIGH CLASS FURRIER SELLS AT WHOLESALE Exclusive Fur Coats, full length, $145 up. Latest cre- ations shown by best 5th Ave. Furriers. Illus. Bro- chure free. L. Furman (Est. 40 yrs.)778-6th Ave. N.Y. EXCLUSIVE FURS RETAIL & WHOLESALE A Fifth Ave. shop on E. 10th St., offers latest de- signs at reasonable prices. a ig a specialty 53 yrs. in business. E. E. Baldwin ,36 E. 10th St., N.Y. Hair and Scalp Treatment WALDEYER & BETTS—Scalp Specialists. Expert advice and scientific treatment of jhair and scalp. 665 Fifth Avenue, N. 43 Rue Godot de Mauroy, | Paris Gift Baskets “BEAUTIFUL HAIR by common sense methods.’’ Scientific! Simple! Sure! Send for new free book. Ogilvie Sisters, Scalp Specialists, 505 Fifth Avenue, New York. BLUE BASKETS Filled to please the individual. Steamer, con- valescent and vanity baskets. Exceptional gifts. Alice H. Marks, 4 W. 50th St., N.Y. Tel. Circle 3481. Golf Schools and Shops Hemstitching, Plaiting and Buttons BUTTONS COVERED, HEMSTITCHING, Plaiting. Hemstitehing ; plain, picot edge, zigzag, curves. Buttons: customers’ own material. Plaiting all styles. Mail order catalog. Sadleir, 17 W. 34th St., N. Y. UNDER THE PERSONAL DIRECTION of Mr. C. L. Mothersele, Featuring ‘‘The Better Balanced Driver.’’ Everything for the Golfer. C. L. Mothersele,10 E. 45th St., N.Y. Vanderbilt 0588. Hosiery Repaired Gowns Bought MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 670, will buy your misfit or slightly used street and evening dresses, suits, wraps, etc. Highest cash value. Satisfactory service to patrons at a distance. 69 W. 45th St., N.Y. Bryant 1376—WE PAY CASH—Bryant 1376 For Slightly Used or Discarded Gowns, Suits, Wraps Furs, ete. Diamonds, Precious Stones, Jewelry, Silverware, Antiques, House Furnishings, ete. Consult us first before you sell. Unlimited Capital at our disposal Highest prices—Full value guaranteed. Bank and Society References. Write, Phone, Call or Send Mme. Furman, 101-103 West 47th St., Telephone Bryant 1376 MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 670, pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used evening & street frocks, furs, diamonds, jewelry, silverware, 69 West 45th Street, New York. N. Y.-C. BROOKS-MAHIEU, 1437 Bway (40-41 sts.), N.Y., who costume most Broadway shows have opened a rental department. 11,000 world’s most beautiful costumes to choose from. (Tel. 5580 Penn.) A. KOEHLER & CO., 249 W. 42nd St., N. Y. C. Tel. Chickering 3088 ;° artistic and original models for the Bal-Masque and pageant. An extraordinary collection of historical & genuine national costumes. Flesh Reduction Gowns & Blouses Made-to-Order THE MISSES CURRAN will make you street and evening gowns and blouses for all occasions, and also do remodeling at reasonable prices. 134 Lexington Ave. (29th St.), N. Y. Mad. Sq. 8188. MME. MARTHA makes dresses of unusual charm to suit your individual —_, at moderate prices. Also remodelling. 129 East 60th Street, N. Y. Tel. 6539 Plaza REDUCE WEIGHT & CORRECT THE FIGURE without diet or medicine. We possess every device— Electrical & Mechanical—for successful treatment. Dr. Savage Institute, 253 Madison Ave, Van. 8593 MARGURITE B. KELLENS makes smart street suits—dainty evening & afternoon gowns. Fine work. Remodeling like new. Prompt attention to mail orders. 143 West 69th St., N. Y. Endicott 9558 We Specialize in REPAIRING French Sheer Hose. Runs & Pull Threads repaired on all makes of silk hosiery, & made to look like new. Lenox Hosiery Repair Service, 2 West 47th St., N. Y. Interior Decorators and Decorations CONSULTING DECORATOR helps express yourideas in Home Decorating. Long experience in shopping & many wholesale accounts lend economy to her art. Laura Wand, 4 West 53rd St., N. Y. Circle 3156 Jane White Lonsdale—Lillian Searles Roeder an- nounce holiday gifts Russian, Italian & Chinese linens, hand-tooled leather, together with unusual lamps & shades. 114 E. 40th St., N.Y. Tel. Mur. Hill 2991. J. TUZZOLI, 27 West 46th St., N.Y., makes a suit for $65 which cannot be duplicated under $125. Quality & material faultless in make & fit. Also Coats & Dresses reasonable. Furs remodeled. YOUTHFUL MODELS of the utmost distinction. Gowns, Coats, Suits and Wraps tailored to accentu- ate the slim silhouette. Moderately priced. Walther & Co., 24 West 57th Street, New York. Lingerie and Laces BRIDAL SETS—TROUSSEAUX. Lingerie of best quality and style, hand-made, with real Valen- ciennes and other fine laces, Moderately _ Rileed. M. Collart, 23 KE. 54th St. _N. Y Maids’ Uniforms OUTFITTING ASS’N, 425 5th Av., N.Y. Caps, 25c up. Coats, $42.50 up. Catalog ‘‘V’’ on request NURSES’ Dresses, $4.50 up. Aprons, 75c to $8.50 Hats. $8.50 up. Maternity Apparel BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSETS, Belts and Brassieres. Exclusive and invisible enlargement feature. Dress as_ usual. Write for Booklet No. 14. Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York. BERTHE MAY’S Maternity DRESSES. LAYETTES Exclusive models at reasonable prices Write for Season’s portfolio No. 14. Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York. Memorials MEMORIALS FOR EVERY PURPGSE. In granite, marbie, bronze and glass. Individual considera- tion. Sketches upon request. State requirements. The Davis Memorial Co., Syracuse, N, Y. Millinery and Feathers REMODELER OF HATS. Your old Hats remod- eled into latest styles. New Hats conied_ from models in Vogue.. Mail orders a specialty. Prices reasonable. Irene | Franks, 37 ‘West 45th Street. N. Y. Miscellaneous MFGR. of HAND-MADE CHILDREN’S DRESSES needs several reliable women to take orders. Splendid opportunity for women with good social connections. Box 156, Davenport, Iowa. FOX HILL APPLES Straight from the tree to you, sparkling with juice, crisp and piquant! Stayman Winesap, our finest variety, is ready now to lend its crimson cheer and delightful. racy flavor to your table. Hand picked, carefully graded and perfectly packed. Not sold through dealers. $5.00 a bu., $3.00 a half bu. (delivered free in the ‘first two parcel post zones). Address S. C. Eshleman, Grower Box A, McKnightstown, Pa. Jewelry and Precious Stones FRANK C. HUTCHINSON BUYS DIAMONDS, precious stones and individual pieces of jewelry or jewelry estates to be settled. Expert appraising. 344 Madison Ave., N. Y. C., opp. Hotel Biltmore RANDOLPH J. TRABERT CO., Formerly with Black, Starr & Frost. Jewel Brokers & Authorized Apprais- ers. Jewels purchased from estates & private parties. Guaranty Trust Co. Bidg., Room 506, 522-5th Ave. STRINGING PEARLS AND NECKLACES our specialty. Expert Work. Opsel, 309 Fifth Avenue, N. Y. C. Telephone Lexington 2480 SLENDERNESS ACQUIRED through Subtle Dressing. We understand the Art and give it to you by mail. Helen Hamersley, 43 Christopher Street. N. Hand-dyed silk HANDKERCHIEFS attractively boxed in the favored colors of the recipient. Makes an ideal Christmas gift. Price $1.50. Frances Joy, 126 Claremont Ave., N. Y. Morningside 9520. INTROSPECTIVE CHARACTER READING from Hand-writing. ‘‘Take a Journey into the Personal & Know Thyself.’’ Send five lines of writing and $3.00. Agatha W. Pettee. Saratoga Springs, N. Y. DYES for Batik, Tie-Dyeing, Tinting and Restor- ing faded garments, draperies, 30 popular shades. Packages one color 25c each ppd. Alio Mfg. Co., 101 Beekman Street, N. Y¥. C. HIGHEST PRICES paid for diamonds, watches, pearls, discarded jewelry, etc. Money wired with- in 2 hours. Bank references. Detroit Gold Refiners, 402 Capitol Theatre Bldg., Detroit. SILBERSTEIN, B’way at 92nd St. Riverside 9175 Jewelry of taste and distinction. Ideal for gifts. Special orders executed. Favorable prices prompt consideration. Write us for suggestions or call. Monograms and Woven Names EMBROIDERED INITIALS & MONOGRAMS on your own linens. Orders being taken now for Christmas delivery. French handkerchiefs onsale. Booklet. Janon Company, 21 East 57th Street. N. _¥. SUPERFLUOUS FLESH REDUCED by modern scientific method, without payment until reduction, if desired. Dr. R. Newman, Licensed Physician, 286 Fifth Ave. (near 30th St.), New York City. CARRIE and GRANTLAND will give individual at- tention to your street and evening gowns, dresses, ete. Finest materials, excellent workmanship, & reason- able prices our recommendation, 30 W. 51st St., N. Y. NECKLACES, 48-inch Central American Togua beads; distinct novelty, $4.75. Sent upon receipt eheck or money order. Money refunded if unsat- isfactory. Togua Co., 65 Nassau Street, New York CASH’S WOVEN NAMES for marking clothing, household & hotel linen, ete. Write for styles and prices. . Cash, Ine., 622 Chestnut St., So. Norwalk, Conn. England, France, Australia, Canada CREME NUFORM applied regularly reduces su- Derfluous flesh, giving positive results benefiting the skin, leaving it firm and Pliable. Sold in $3 and $6 jars. Creme Nuform, 662 Lexington Ave., N.Y.C. MME. LOLA de PARIS designs & finishes attrac- tive & original dresses. All hand work. No stout or_ elderly ladies. Personal attention from 2 to 5 » 6 Pierrepont St., Brooklyn, N.Y. Tel. Main 4809-R ESTATES AND RESPONSIBLE PERSONS wish- ing to dispose of jewels can do so privately and to the best advantage at 542-5th Avenue. Rooms 50-51, 5th Floor. Bechet & Barclay. “TNDELLO” Transfers (just ironed op). ager gs mark your clothing & linens quickly. 100 of your name or your _initials—$1.09. Permanent Marking Co., Chestnut Hill, Phila., Pa.

Page 36

VOGUE Monograms&W ovenNames—Cont. Shoes and Custom Shoes—Cont, Stationery—Cont. FLORENCE et FELICITE, 693 Madison Av., Late with Mossé, Inc. seaux & individual pieces. ideas: Fine Linens, Sketches sub. N.Y. Monogramming of entire trous- Holiday Ladies’, Gentlemen’s Hdkfs. SHORT VAMP SHOES (Trade Mark) from stock or to order. in America. Established William Bernstein, 6 West 37th St., First French Boot Shop 887. , N.Y. Booklet, YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS (3 lines) printed in dark blue on high grade bond paper, 200 sheets—100 envelopes, prepaid. Telegraph Print. Co., arrisburg, Mourning Apparel PARISIAN BOOTERY shoes for women of society and stage. Well-made, perfectly fitting. tg for illustrated folder. Mail orders. 217 West 42nd Street, N. Y. specializes in’ short- -vamp ARTHUR MULLEN—I9 E. 49th St., N.Y. Mourning and Stunning Black Hats, yeils, Gowns, Blouses and Bags. Plaza 2698. CUSTOM SHOES exquisitely designed. your own specifications. $35 upward. solicited. Catalog and ‘directions upon request. E. Hayes, Inc. 582 Fifth Ave., N. Y¥. C. Made to Mail orders EMBOSSED LINEN STATIONERY, like engraving, Grey, white, buff, blue, 100 double sh., 100 envs, 3 lines, same on each, $2. 00. Dept. A. Pa aramount Paper Co., Kalamazoo, Mich. Add 10% West tof Denver, Tea Rooms SLIPPERS MADE-TO-ORDER THE SHOP OF BLACK, 2643 Bway, N.Y., River. 2696. Correct mourning apparel. Veils, gowns, blouses. black. $10 hats in black a specialty. No_ catalog. Matrons’ hats of individual character in mourning & Christmas Gift Suggestions for Stout Women | pe tgp intimate gifts for the member of the family who wears extra-size apparel. Corduroy Robes trimmed with two-tone embroidery . 9.95 Jersey Silk Petticoats very beautifully embroidered . 6.50 Crepe de Chine Nightgowns Superior tailored models 9.95 If unable to visit any of our stores, write to Dept. V2 tor new Style Book fane Pryant 26 W. 39th St., 21 W. 38th St., New York Hanover Place, nr. Fulton St., B’klyn CHICAGO DETROIT Washington cor. Wabash 1452 Farmer St. Patterns tions, description of model. attention to mail orders. Mrs. 111 Lexington Avenue, at 28th Street, New York Perfumes MYSTIKUM. Europe’s Premier Perfume. Mystery of fresh cut flowers—from laboratories Scherk-Berlin, At smart shops. 10c in stamps brings sample. Scherk Importing Co., 45 W. 47th St., zz ¢ JASPY MYRODATA—Most Parisian of perfumes, compacts. At best shops or Send for illus. catalogue. tig N.Y. 2’, contains resco. A metal mounted flask, | celluloid container for salt and pepper, 2 pair folding, bone- This pigskin case, 6” x 414’’x complete equipment for a meal ai an , stainless steel knives and forks. Price $21.50. May be purchased through | Vogue Shopping Service NEW INVISIBLE LIQUID FOR BEAUTIFYING THE EYELASHES There is an entirely new kind of preparation for beautifying the eye- lashes—a preparation which has been well-named “the invisible beautifier.” It makes even the scantiest lashes seem long, thick and beautiful, yet it does not give a made-up-looking appearance at all. Never before have women been able to “touch up” light or scanty lashes without creating an artificial effect, All beautifiers such as rouge, lip stick and powder, if used to any extent whatever, are apt to give a made-up look. But this new liquid beauti- fier for the lashes greatly enhances the beau- ty and expression of the eyes without in itself being visible! Well-groomed women everywhere are using it because of this. Lashbrow Liquid, “the fier,” frames the eyes in fascination. deft touch or two and the lashes are made to appear long, dark, sweeping. The eyes themselves seem larger. And this extraor- dinary liquid is positively waterproof—will not run, rub off or smear. It is easily ap- plied, dries instantly and because it contains natural oils, positively will not cause the lashes to become brittle or hard. FREE TRIAL For introductory purposes we will send ou ae a generous supply of Lashbrow iqui of another Lashbrow product, Lashbrow Pomade, which quickly stimulates the growth of the brows and lashes. Clip this invisible beauti- announcement and send it at once to Lash- | brow Laboratories, Dept. 2712, 37 West 20th Street, New York City. Enclose 10c to cover cost of packing and shipping. ASHBROW Remeber the Name Nene other geniuse One | And we will include a trial size | Permanent Hair Wave Visit the Smartest Beauty Shop in New York for Perfect Style and Comfort in Permanent Waving. Robert 675 Fifth Avenue “ % CALL AT SCHAEFFER’S if you want expert personal attention for a permanent wave. Positively no friz or kink. J. Schaeffer, 590-592 5th Av. N.Y. Tel. Bryant 7615 NESTLE’S Originators of Lanoil Waving. World- Famous Experts. 12 and 14 East 49th St. New York. Phone Vanderbilt 7660-7661. MY SPECIALTY PERMANENT LARGE WAVE At last, white hair waved without making it yellow. Bobbed hair all in ringlets. J. Halloh, 36 East 48th Street, N. Y Vanderbilt’ 5241, LOUISE BERTHELON, 48 E. 49th St.. N. Y. Seven years with Nestle. Will cheerfully up your permanent wave to make it last longer. Water waving $1.00. Murray Hill 2768 MARIO & FREDERICK, INC. Permanent Wave Specialists. Personal attention. The result being the duplicate of a large natural wave. 17 East 48th St., N. Y¥. Vanderbilt 6897 JENNIE Exclusive Salon de Deents Large, smooth, lasting permanen 402 Madison Ave., at 47th St., Vanderbilt *7099. PAUL—Quality Work. Personal Service. White Hair a Specialty. No Kink, No Friz. Oil or Steam Waves. 586 Fifth Avenue, N.Y. Phone Bryant 9964 | LANTIERI—The famous permanent wave expert. Send for a copy of my guarantee of perfect satisfaction, 2147 Bway, N. Y. (bet. 75th-76th Sts.) Tel. Endicott 1662 Photographers | | | BANGS STUDIO, 165 W. 72nd St., N. Y. You | will find that my studies catch that elusive charac- PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE from illustra- Fit guaranteed. Special S. Weisz, to match your gown within one week. Any de- sign, color, material or combination $12. Shank® 8 Theatrical Boot Shop, 845-8th Ave. (51st St.) N.Y. Shopping Commissions MISS EDITH V. STOVEL, member of the Asso- — Purchasing Agents of New York, will shop or with you in leading shops. No charge. os. Morningside Avenue Tel. Morningside 7022 MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLING Purchasing Agent. Accompanying out-of-town patrons. No charge. References. Chaperoning Tel. Endicott 4193 155 W. 78th St. a MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopper. Will shop with you or send anything to you. Send for bulletin Services free. 366 Fifth Avenue, New York MRS. GEORGETTE DUNBAR EVANS wiil pone you in touch with N. Y.’s advanced modes. Will shop for or with you gratis. Chaperoning. Booklet. Hotel San Remo, Central Park West. Endicott 6700 “BEAUTIFUL THINGS | SEE”—Write for Free Fashion Letter with list of bargains. — free for or with you, saving time and mone Irene Stephens, 144 East 37th Street, wen York BLANCHE ADLER—Formerly of the South, will accompany out-of-town patrons. Services gratis. Personal attention given mail orders References re- quired. Now at 10 E. 43d St., N.Y. Tel. Vand. 2360 SHOPPER. Entrée to most exclusive shops in New York. Sports Wear, Millinery, Dresses & Novelties. Lowest Prices. Style questions answered promptly. iss K. Cosdin, 60 West 68th St., N.Y. Silks NEW beh eg MOST POPULAR — ROOMS Fair, 4 West 40th Str Vanity Fair, 3 East 38th Street New York Street Dinner is served at the 40th tea room ___Vanity Fair every day except Sunday Ecru collar and cuff set of linen with openwork embroidery by hand, in scalloped design. Col- lar 414 inches wide and 14 inches long. Cuffs inches wide. . May be purchased through Vogue Shopping Service Toilet Preparations THE WONDER CORN SHIELD—Patented method positively prevents shoe-pressure upon aching corn or callous. 25¢c a pkg. Sent anywhere. Dr. Paul Wetzel, 29 Clove Rd., New Rochelle, N.Y. FRUTCHEY SILK SHOP, 574 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Mr. Frutchey (for 30 years a style authority) gladly sends samples of silks, personally selected, for any purpose. Here your patronage is appreciated. WHITE SILKS & PONGEES from the Far East. Unusual values. Samples mailed free. ‘ar East Importing Co. 1511C Ninth Avenue W, Seattle, Washington. Heavy silk CANTON CREPE MUFFLER 45x 17 TROUBLED WITH SOFT CORNS, perspiring feet or other foot discomforts? Use Odex; cures quickly. Mail $1 money order. Satisfaction or money returned. Odex Products Co., 5 No. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill. “BEAUTIFUL NAILS—EIGHT MONTHS—50c. An eight months’ supply of Empress Nail Gloss and Nail Gloss Remover only 50c at your dealer or direct. A single stroke—no buffing—gives a delicate flesh in. picoted or hemstitched, in exquisite Persian tint waterproof luster that will last two weeks Patterns. $2 each. Lovely Christmas gift for both | or send 10c for a liberal sample. ° sexes. Robertsville Silk Mills, 404-4th Ave., N. Y. | Empress_ _Co., , 820 Eighth Ave., New York City. : on : Silverware Travelling | os Antique & modern silver, gold, platinum, jewels, INDESTRUCTO bought and Jewelry Harold G. sold. Best values paid and given. repaired and reset in newest styles. Lewis Co, 13 W. 47th St., N.Y. Bry. 6526 | Insured Trunks Take most of the discomfort out of any journey—and cost _no more. Social Etiquette CHARM, POISE & PERSONALITY—Overcome self- consciousness—Personality analyzed, correct social procedure authoritatively taught personally and by mail. Mile. Louise, Marie Antoinette Hotel, N.Y.C. SOCIAL ERRORS ARE UNFORTUNATE. Be at ease in society, business & school activities. Com- plete lesson covering your own requirements _ by mail $1.00. Mrs. Margot Kaye, A.B., 136 W. 82d St., N.Y. Goning set soutien of 3 scissors, 2 cards of thread and 3 winders is concealed in an ecrasse leather case 614 inches long, with enameled but- ton. In blue and old rose, lined | toxtstie which makes them interpretations of per- sonality as well as perfect reproductions. Prints and Frames KENNEDY & CO., 693 Fifth Ave., New York. Fine Sporting and Naval Frints. | Rare Old and Modern Etchings. Americana suitable for Colonial |} Homes. Shoes and Custom Shoes with coloured moire to match. Price $8.25. ~d be purchased through 1 Vogue S Shopping Service Specialty Shops WINTER STREET & AFTERNOON NRESSES Models for children, Hats, Novelties, Shades, Doli | Houses and Furniture. Candy and a special blend | Cigarettes. Commission Shop, 8 East 47th St.,N.Y.C. esa dee SHOP—Y.W.C.A., 32 E. 48th St., N.Y. Assortment of Xmas Gifts, Hants. galore, hand- made conceits in white & all colors, Dressed dolls. Tempting home-cooked foods. Vand. 5763. Tg ry SHOP ‘“‘fits the narrow heel’’ in sizes 0, AA to E. French and English models in ion —~y Seakes footwear. Send for Catalog VS. Fit guaranteed. 714-5th Ave., New York BERTHA TANZER, Station F, ¥ Please send two cent stamp for my new catalog V. Full of unique gifts for the whole family, and get Unusual Gifts Brooklyn, N. fa your Christmas order in early. ARTISTIC GIFTS FROM EUROPE Ann Doughty, personaliy se:ected by me from individual crafts- men. Catalog for Trade only. Rena_ Rosenthal, 520 Madison Avenue, near 50th St., N. Y. City. FADS & FANCIES Importers, 437 Fifth Ave., N.Y. Will shop with you or for you. No charge for service. HAND-MADE JEWELRY specially designed. Kalo hand-wrought silverware for Xmas_ Gifts. Call or send for my interesting —y 17 West 50th Street, N. CHINESE JEWELRY—Beautiful dants, mental Japan Art Studio, 624 Lexington Ave. (at 53d), PLAYING CARDS WITH YOUR aeuasnad 2 decks in attractive case, $3.00 ppd. gift. Monogram bridge scores 4 pads of 25 each, $1.25 ppd. Enelbe Press, P.O. Box 466, SEMI-TROPICAL BOX 16” x 6” x 5” of satsumas (the delicious kid glove oranges), pineapple, kumquats, pecans attractively packed in Spanish moss; $1.75 postage prepaid. Tasteful gift for Christmas and all occasions. Try one now and order some sent with your cards to friends. The Far-South Co., Box 1382, Mobile, Ala. _ necklaces, pen- jade trees lamps with orna- Necklaces & pendants sostrung, earrings, shades. Handsome holiday Springfield, Ohio. A washable, any hue. $1.50. GIVE A lovable, A genuine, Helen Reader, “GOOKY GIRL” floatable doll with hair of delightful novelty. Postpaid Roosevelt, Washington. ALICE H. MARKS, 4 West Furniture, Lamps, Gifts for all occasions. Linens, Garments, for approval shipments. Olivia, — package $2.25, attractive gift package. , Papeterie Studio, 517 John Street, Appleton, Wis. 50th Street, N. Y. Gifts appropriate for all occasions. Ma Jongg Novelties, Tables and Rack Pottery, Glassware. Cirele 3481 Bags, Hdkfs., Baby Dolls, Xmas. Cards. Ref. Handicraft Shop of Conn. Hooked Rugs, Catalog. 12 West Putnam Ave., Greenwich, C GIFT PACKAGE: hand-made stationery, hand-made, hand-decorated, and hand-lined en- velopes. ining papers imported from France, Italy, and China. Put up in attractive folders. and large package $3.75 each. ‘or personal use without folder $2 per quire. Very Orders promptly filled. Wedding Stationery JUNIOR SPORT SHOP, Inc., 20 W. 49th St., N.Y. art Coats, Hats ‘and Dresses For Small Children. Growing Girls and Little Women. Telephone Bryant 5460 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $13.50 or in- 9 « sets of envelopes, Write for samples vitations hand- engraved. 100 Calling Cards, $2.75. V. Ott Engraving Co., 1036 Chestnut St., Phila., Pa. JACK’S “— yer (Creators) 154 Ww est 45th St.. N. Y., Opp. Lyceum Theatre. Jack’s Shoe Seioke a admirable _ personal use or friendly Christmas gifts. Stationery SHORT AND MEDIUM VAMP SHOES French and American Models. Round or Pointed Toes. Best for High Insteps. Cat ge Magee alog J. Glassberg, 225 West 42nd Street, New York | YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS OR MONOGRAM embossed on_100 double sheets, 5% x 8, and 100 envelopes. Prepaid $2.00. Samples submitted. 505 Fifth Ave., N. Y De Luxe Stationery Co., ENGRAVED Wedding Invitations & Announcements. Everett Waddey Co. has for a generation insured highest quality at reasonable peices, delivered. Wedding Etiquette Free. Book 5 S. 11 St., Richmond, Va. suPcnion ENGRAVING c Wedding Invita- ons Guaranteed hand Write for samples. Announcements. Wholesale Prices. engraved. Highest Quality. 610 E. Main St., Richmond, Va. and

Page 37

December l The three views above show the Versatile as bracelet, ring watch and pendant— actual size. This model in 18 kt. white gold, wilh 16 jewel movement, complete with ring, bracelet and pendant, $75 Four Hafis Bracelet Watches All views actual size A5765B—s 1-2 ligne, 18kt. white gold, 16 jewels « . $53.50 45735B—Same in 14 kt. white geld. ... + + o Spee A5755B—Same in 14 kt. white gold filled. . $40.00 A2465—6 5-4 ligne, 18 kt. white gold, 16 jewels . $39.00 A2435— Same in 14 kt. white ep. 4 sss + Spe 42455 — Same in 14 kt. white gols filled. . . » $24.00 A5775A—s5 1-2 ligne, 16 jewels, all platinum case set with 36 blue white perfect cut dtia- The Versatile takes unto itself a woman’s prerogalive and changes its mien as often as its owner changes ber coslume or ber mind. In the same day the Versalile may be worn as a ring, as a pendant and as a wrist watch, } Only a tick of time and the lrick ts done. The Versatile becomes a ring, a wrist watch or a pendant, whichever best suils your mood and becomes your coslume. This one “cites 1S diece presents for her jewelry box NE Christmas present that would delight any woman isa wrist watch. But witha Versatile her gift and her pleasure are tripled. Half the size ofa postage stamp, it may be changed instantly from a finger watch to a bracelet, and from either to the continental mode of the sautoir. And while the Versatile may wander far, while it may vary its mien to its owner’s mind or costume, a clever little device brings it back to where it started —a wrist watch. And the device which makes this astonishing watch three watches in one is simple withal, and easily adjusted in a tick of time. And though the Versatile may vary with the costume, it will never swerve from the true time. Inaddition tothe Versatile you can buy Hafis Wrist Watches in many charming and small mod- els, some of which are shown upon this page. They are all good watches. A tiny Hafis Watch was awarded a certificate from the world famous Bienne Observ- atory for its accurate keeping of time, the firsttime so highanhonor has been paid to so small a watch. Ask your jeweler about Hafis watches. Or write to us for the name of a jeweler who can show them to you. A booklet, “The Whims of Wearing a Watch,” illustrates many models of Hafis, ranging from $35 to $1500, and explains the device which makes the Versatile possible. Requests for the booklet should be sent to R. Gsell& Co.,17 West 37thSt., New York. A5775CCW—s 1-2 ligne, 16 jewels, all platinum wing case set wilh 58 blue while Aa- monds and 24 sapphires, $720 R. Gsell & Co., 17 West 37th Street, New York

Page 38

© Vogue Vionnet makes this delightfully simple dress of black satin-backed Canton crépe, just the right mate- rial as to weight, cut with sur- passing cleverness, and absolute- ly untrimmed. The wearer's hat is black felt, her fur is silver fox, her shoes black lizard calf, her stockings noisette. She wears the earrings of the moment, and two strings of pearls. And she carries a short, extremely French umbrella. . . . She is extraor- dinarily smart What is it to be WELL-DRESSED? Fabric Colour Line Trimming—if any Hat Shoes Stockings Gloves Bag Jewelry If you are to be well-dressed, these ten things must be right. ‘They must be appropriate to the time of day, the place, the occasion. ‘They must suit your figure, your tastes, your version of Paris and New York. You can’t attain such knowledge in a day—a year. You can’t keep it unless you refresh not only your memory, but that inner vision by which you know—instantly— unerringly—whether a thing is smart or not. There is just one source of such information, such inspiration, such clothes-sense: Vogue. The gown you buy and seldom wear is the really expen- sive gown. Gloves, shoes, hats that miss being exactly what you want, are the ones that cost more than you can afford. Consider, then, that for $2 (a tiny fraction of your loss on a single ill-chosen hat or gown) you may have Vogue’s guidance through the coming months when you will be spending hundreds of dollars on the gowns, shoes, hats and wraps that you select. Can you afford to do without Vogue? VOGUE’S SPECIAL OFFER 10 ISSUES $2 Eleven if you mail the coupon now Holiday Number December 15 (extra complimentary copy) How to have a merry Christmas even if you’re hostess; last-minute gifts, the tree, the table, clothes. Midwinter Travel January 1 Where to go and what to wear on land or sea; things to do and how to do them, whether you love winter or fly away from it. Southern Fashions and Motors January 15 The wardrobe for the southern season, and clothes so delightful for the north that you are glad to stay home. Smart fashions for all incomes. Spring Fabrics and Vogue Designs February 1 The very newest fabrics and working models for your spring and summer wardrobe. Spring Forecast February 15 Earliest authentic news of spring styles, fully illustrated by Paris models. Spring Millinery March 1 The smartest hats from Paris. The cleverest hats from New York. Spring Shopping March 15 The best offerings of the shops; a review of the mode as shown in America. Paris Openings April 1 The very latest news from the “Openings.” All the spring modes devised and executed by Paris. Paris Fashions April 15 A lovely number planned for every woman who is interested in beautiful clothes for the more formal occasions. New York Fashions May 1 The most characteristic things which New York creates for its exclusive clientele. Smart Fashions At Moderate Cost May 15 First aid to the fashionable woman of not unlimited means. Vogue will save you money on every one of these numbers—perhaps many times its subscription price. Not by making you do without things you like, but by eliminating buying mistakes. They’re your biggest extravagance—aren’t they? And they don’t bring you a sec- ond’s pleasure—do they? So—this year, economize—and enjoy it. Sign, tear off and mail the coupon now! SPECIAL OFFER Open to Old or New Subscribers Good only for very limited period TWO YEARS OF VOGUE FOR $8.00. 48 copies bought singly would cost $16.80. Through this special offer you will save $8.80. Orders at this price will be ac- cepted from either old or new sub- scribers. If you are a subscriber at present, we will accept extensions of your subscription at this rate. SPECIAL OFFER Open Only to New Subscribers To new subscribers, during a limited period, we will send introductory sub- iod ie A scriptions of 10 issues of Vogue for , = $2.00. Eleven if you mail the wv coupon now. These 11 copies, Se — bought singly, would cost a $3.85. A saving of $1.85, Ov os through this special SO offer. O° 4° Ys ad we of Pas 8 oO” 4 - © 4” + & : ” ro & 34 +) > BD teed — FF 6 ff 72)

Page 39

IVABLE charm in a room—so prized by true home-makers—is nearly always due to furniture and decorations selected to reflect and emphasize the intrinsic character of the room itself. The appeal of Simmons beds to women of taste and discrimination is based not only on their individual grace and beauty, but even more on the variety of period and modern styles that gives full scope to your personal flair in furnish- ings. Choice of engaging colors and fine wood finishes further extends the range allowed you in chamber decorations. Essential comfort for that vital third of your life you spend in bed is provided by Simmons springs and mattresses. In many types at varying prices, from the luxurious “Purple Label” down, all are outstanding values, built of sweet new materials. Look for the Simmons label —your sleep and health insurance. aN CEN: ines oh doeelie en Ahad oeerineyesierne- tence: The serene beauty of a great French period is brought into harmony with modern standards of comfort in this dignified bedchamber. Warm French gray walls, verging on lavender. Curtains of soft green damask, patterned in rose and blue. Bed covers of changeable taffeta, in lavender and blue. Carpet is Aubusson, as is aise the tapestry seat and back of the Louis XVI chair. Beds, dresser and table are units from a complete new suite of Simmons furniture, Louis XVI in design, in two-tone walnut finish. For nine similar schemes of chamber deco- ration in “Restful Bedrooms,” write to The Simmons Company, 1347 South Michigan Avenue, Chicago, or to Simmons Limited, goo St. Ambroise Street, Montreal. SIMMONS “Beds-eMattresses - Springs: Built for Sleep and BEDROOM FURNITURE

Page 40

BERMUDA FOR GOLF Enjoy Bermuda's flawless greens, where 18 holes are 18 tropical pictures, where the fas- cination of the scenery vies with the perfection of the courses. The Bermuda Championship Golf Tournament will be played at Riddell’s Bay, week of January 14. The winter climate, 60° to 70°, permits every outdoor sport— golf, tennis, sailing, surf bathing, fishing, riding, driving, cycling, horse racing. No automobiles, street cars, railroads—an_ ideal place for rest, recreation, and sightseeing. Modern hotels, boarding houses, cottages, with a wide range of rates. Steamships sail every few days. Only 48 hours from New York. No passports required. Request illustrated booklet from Furness Bermuda Line, 34 Whitehall Street, New York; The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company, 26 Broadway, New York; any travel bureau, or THE BERMUDA TRADE DEVELOPMENT BOARD 141 West 36th Street, New York (A Department of the Bermuda Government, which has authorized the publication of this advertisement)

Page 41

‘ . : ‘ . . F r 2 : a ie r . ” . er . « ty a ' ; . ° . y ; i < fi 3 . ‘i : . . * . : : ; x a a ‘ ‘ , # on * * nse eiibeniplidinte © hl - bs ° ° ‘ ‘ ‘ 5 ’ A . ;. , + ES r rs . C ’ . ’ 2 . be . ‘ : . “ ‘ . ‘ . . 2 © tg i —— “ t of -~ . . ° “ \ . i . —~ 4 . ‘ * : 4

Page 42

Page 43

lecember 1 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU NEW YORK | | aaaieieie silat FLORIDA De cdare stayed ot ~ J YON eS HOTELS DELUXE MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA HOTEL ASTOR a ny .. nate is to have lived in New York Opens January 10 TIMES SQUARE ~t BROADWAY, 44th and 45th Streets , - a - George S. Krom, Manager here you are in the very center of the a a st esses ee . City’s brilliant, pulsating life and : t boy FLAMINGO breathe its sparkling atmosphere. \ . Fred’k A. Muschenheim 32 ; Opens December 30 C. S. Krom, Manager J “Half a block from Herald Square”’ LINC OLN HOTEL COLLINGWOOD ‘WG. m ’ a : Now Open—B. Lundberg, Manager West 35th Street New York City é eS eee ai tee: se Seta H. MoseEtey - rei oaeacncmmens ea eer fuorter st. ames] [UML WANG BELLEVIEW | si rerersburg, Pia 109-113 West 45th St., New York City. Times Square HOTEL and COTTAGES Resort hotel preéminent in the center of |] Midway between Fifth Avenue and Broadway é A B.... ee i Re An hotel of quiet dignity, having the atmos- : BELLEAIR HEIGHTS Ffovida the city. New, fireproof structure, 250 s outside rooms with bath. American plan. re and appointments of a_ well-conducted . Much favored by women traveling with- | out — 3 y oapll Ly 20 ienkeme nd f Fi et Py. JOHNSON QUINN OPENS JANUARY 5TH. Overlooks Gulf — ——— Le of Mexico. Two 18-hole golf courses. 'CLARK’S FAMOUS CRUISES | — Eleven important tournaments sched- Hotel Soreno | First-class, at reasonable rates, including hotels, uled; handsome trophies. All land and St. Petersburg Florida ‘drives, cuides, fees, ete. Experienced management ° ° ) and staif. Ask for program. water sports. Concerts, dancing. Com- Elegance and comfort are real- Westen, Around the World Jan. 15 9° | petent instruction for small children. g : ized in new hotel on Tampa Bay. o . J 250 rooms with bath. American " Specially chartered Cunarder ‘‘Laconia’’ (oil-burner) Thru Pullman to the deere from ae.’ Plan. Soren Lund and Son, — Mediterranean, Feb. 2 y New York and Chicago. Reserva- ii iB Owners; Frank S. Dodge, Mgr. | Bpecially chartered White Star Liner “Baltic.” tions: — The Biltmore, New York. ¢ Be FRANK C. CLARK, Times Bidg., N. Y. : he _ John McEntee Bowman, President Earle E. Carley, Vice-President The C. A. Judkins, Manager Ambassador | i OF GEORGE Oren c ee eareen | Lo Tis ALB © " ats ‘ bn "eet = B maior — = A name which means hotel . — perfection—Ambassador The BROADMOOR THE AMBASSADOR, New York t et n ‘t 4 Cg en — paren THE AMBASSADOR, Atlantic City S ° P ersbur I v1tes b t this Famous Resort Autumn THE AMBASSADOR, Los Angeles g € ou lingers into the New Year THE ALEXANDRIA, Los Angeles Thits time is wavet ! delightful for Motoring, aa Riding, Golfing, . SUMMER TOUR OF ge 4 amping, | SWITZERLAND and VENICE Enjoy the winter in The Sunshine City. Have rest Hunting, Fishing No sightseeing. Long stops. Passes by or sport out-doors in this glorious climate between Tampa or Boating motor. Priv ies. ° : j otor : rivate group has few vacancies Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. Boss - » | Open Ail Year 1 Direction: Russell S. Gilbert —— = and Fireproof. H] 83 Cleveland St., Orange, N. J. Enthusiasm has made St. Petersburg the South’s = ——— most rapidly growing resort city. Guests are entertained with open-air concerts, card parties and games in the PHILADELPHIA WHERE NEXT? = k. peer is pet not pene to enjoy golf, fishing, = ennis, bathing, boating and trap-shooting. Philadelphia What about a little sun- Apartment houses, boarding and rooming houses, and THE RITZ-CARLTON hotels provide varied accommodations. And five mag- Continental atmosphere. Pooms, cuisine and service of supreme excellence. In the nificent hotels have been completed for this season. Grier of the fashionable as well as busi- Bermuda? For information and booklet address: ness life. Under the direction of Florida? anil age David B. Provan | California? D. G. EDDY NS. RIE. 4 oe. ae Chamber of Commerce a ATLANTIC CITY aribbean Cruise? St. Petersburg, Florida a a —— Who knows them all? And | Khe edly Garllew Hheiel ah Atlantic City, N. J. lives to give information? And eats detail alive? AMERICA’S SMARTEST RESORT HOTEL at = iT — ae Man i, 2 i Famous for its perfect cuisine and service Gustave Tott, Manager The Ambassador Hotels System shine in your winter? SET ital Asp ORE A aL OD aS CONDE NAST Sy cine Ae De Ey HO a NEW ENGLAND TRAVEL BUREAU Wiggs mes ti ; Sh } 21 West 44th St. New York ©. { h 3. ake | BOSTON mele On Either Side of Copley Sa-__|| The LENOX The BRUNSWICK)

Page 44

THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU

BERMUDIANA The Bermudiana, opening in January, is the most modern and best equipped hotel in Bermuda. Fireproof, built of steel and stone, it em- bodies all of the newest approved features in hotel construction and service. The interior decorations have been secured in the art centres of the Old World. Dis- tinctive grill room, a la carte and table d’hote dining rooms, cafe, billiard room, li- brary, and ball room. 460 guests. All fa- cilities for golf, tennis, riding, driving, bath- ing, fishing, sailing, etc. For reservations, or booklet, address John O. Evans, Manager, The Hotel Bermu- diana, Hamilton, Bermuda, or Furness Ber- muda Line, 34 Whitehall Street, New York.

portant cities to all East NEW YORK OFFICE 2 West 45th Street Telephone Murray Hill 4411 Wien

OU hear of the tranquility and natural beauty of this wondrous land—you read of the delightful climate and gorgeous semi-tropical sur- roundings—you are told of the de- lights of social life and charming companionship, yet, until you yourself have visited the East Coast of Florida you cannot fully appreciate the per- fect happiness in store. EVERY OUTDOOR SUMMERTIME ATTRACTION Golf, Tennis, Surf-Bathing, Fishing: Sailing, Motoring, Horseback Riding. Modern Hotels, best of service, perfect appoint ments—all operated on the American plan. Through Pullman trains and through sleepers from im- ‘oast resorts, including Miami for Nassau, Bahamas, and Key West for Havana, Cuba. Booklet containing list of hotels and other information supplied upon request. FLORIDA EAST COAST RAILWAY COMPANY FLORIDA EAST COAST HOTEL COMPANY (Flagier System) GENERAL OFFICES St. Augustine Florida

inehurst NORTH CAROLINA Add the spirit of good- fellowship and good sportsmanship to a_ back- ground of clear sunshine and piney air—and you have the atmosphere of Pinehurst, the World Center of Sport. CAROLINA HOTEL NOW OPEN Holly Inn opens Jan. 7th; Berkshire, Jan. 22nd. Cordial Southern hospitality, every comfort —concerts, dancing. Golf (4 18-hole courses), Tennis, Trapshooting, Rifle Range, Rid- ing, Racing, Driving, Motoring. Championship eventsin every field of sport scheduled thru the season. For practice and instruction in the various games, special grounds and skilful instructors available if desired. For reservations, or booklete and information, address: e General Office, Pinehurst, N.C.

\sa — Ny = . is? — eee SS * we ~Z a) ———. i Cs ae it r ia 4,eehee a “AY, 4 <= Aor y i "Cases to Mosine to Rest or Play Nassau is a world-wide resort. Enchanting to the eye, and possessed of all the freedom and social charm of an English Colony. Fine hotels, excellent boarding places and pensions, congenial people; an 18 hole golf course; unsurpassed bathing; fast tennis courts; sailing and fishing; everything to make Jiving worth while! Less than three days’ sail from New York Only eighteen hours from Florida For further information apply to Munson S. S. Line Ward S. S. Line 67 Wall St., New ‘Vork City New York City The Canadian Gov't Merchant Marine Any Tourist Agent, and N Nassau DEVELOPMENT BOARD B ahamas "Tsle of June

These Are ‘J une Days Nassau, , ASSAU is a British Colony with opportunities for delight- ful social life and outdoor sports that are duplicated in perhaps no other spot in the world. Excel- lent tennis courts, two golf courses. wonderful still water and surf bathing, fine fishing, and glorious sailing. Here each day is as perfect as the northern June, never too hot nor too cold, with sudden changes unknown. This beautiful winter play land is only 60 hours from New York by the express oil burning Mun- son Steamers “Munargo” and “Munamar.” A_ wonderful sea voyage through the placid waters of the gulf stream No passports are required Plan now to be in Nassau when the winter season opens with all its gaiety on December 24th. The New Colonial Hotel at Nassau, one of the most palatial and modern in the south, open- ing January 7th, offers luxurious accommodations to all visiting this romantic isle of perpetual June. New York Booking Of- fice, 2 West 45th Street. For Steamer Reservations MUNSON STEAMSHIP LINES 67 Wall Street New York

Page 45

JE December 1 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 35 4 || ‘TTB 0 ee Oe a a ee Oe ee ee ee THE CRUISES SUPREME Around fhe World on the **Samaria’’ January 26 to June 3, 1924 So supreme event of a life-time, achieving the Grand Circuit in 130 days of luxury and leisure; sailing eastward in the path of spring. No crowding, no confusion. Our own offices with their special service all along the route. The itinerary embraces: Madeira, Mediterranean cities; Egypt; India; Burma; Sumatra; Java; Philippines; South and North China; Japan; Hawaii; San Francisco; Panama; etc. cell ensdllicecett cen tihcedilenstttianstilestitaatt nadie tan ti % the MEDITERRANEAN January 19 to March 26,1924 on the §. §. Belgenland An opportunity beyond compare to visit the historic wonderlands of the “Sea of the Ancients,” traveling with leisure and in comfort on the largest, most modern, most replete steamer cruising to the y/ AL pS ee ae | a | ef | es | Ge | ee | ee Mediterranean next season. An abounding itinerary embracing all points worth while—with a long stay in Egypt. Stopover privileges in Europe, with return by Majestic, Olympic, Homeric, etc. THOS.COQOK & SON C. ee png Angel Te t Boston hicago roadway Los Angeles oronto Phitadelphio ee NEW YORK Montreal Vancouver > | mm | ea | a || A), | |||) ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee es ee if | FRANCE ENGLAND via Cherbourg via Southampton via Hamburg pe: goose travelers enjoy distinctive luxuries of service and accommodation on the palatial steamers Resotute, Retrance, ALBERT BALLIN and DEUTSCHLAND. Equally comfortable though less elaborate are the splen- did one-class cabin ships, CLevetanp, Mount Ctay, Hansa, Tourincia and WestTPHaLia, offering excellent accommodations at moderate rates. Write for “Booklet E V” and full information UNITED AMERICAN LINES yerseeny sean lara HAMBURG AMERICAN LINE 39 Broadway, New York 171 W. Randolph St., Chicago 230 California St., San Francisco or local steamship agents GERMANY ‘required—as to expense involved. HAAR AS AIO ANID ATID AT AEA ER GIA. LANA SAAN IND AH The enn t s. “TUSCANIA” of ae CUNARD and ANCHOR LINES sails from New York February 16, arriving in Egypt at the height of the ‘season and offering a travel oppor- tunity rare, fascinating and full of appeal: A\surers panorama en route; ports of call include Madeira, Gibraltar, Algiers, Monte Carlo, Naples, Athens, "Haifa, Alexandria — returning via Naples and Monaco. Anew steamer, unsurpassed in construction, equip- ped with every modern feature for passenger comfort; ‘an oil-burner — eliminating coaling at the various ports. The traditional world-renowned Cunard service and cuisine. Optional shore excursions; well-planned and interesting. Choice of One-way or Round-trip Bookings—the complete Round-trip—returning via England —constitutes a consummate CRUISE—TOUR to the MEDITERRAN EAN, most attractive, as to points visited—as to time , Full information on request. Apply promptly. CUNARD ana ANCHOR ~ STEAM SHIP LINES -

Page 46

THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU

fo EUROPE &= 7 NOW- R Parts London

The Land of Caravans Do you know the brilliant old ribbon of countries that stretch along the top of Africa—where they follow Mohammed, and talk French, and live with their backs to the emptiness and the sun of the Sahara? At Fez, you stay in a Moorish palace; at Marrakesh you find a red town banked in palms, sitting at the foot of snow mountains; at Timgad you see Trajan’s Roman city, lost in the wild sands. ... You join a desert caravan— you go hunting—there are falcons with harnesses all cov- ered with silver bells—and cooks who make food fit for the Prophet in Paradise — and camp fires whose long shadows flare away into the desert night—and music... . You didn’t know you could do all this? ... You couldn’t a few years ago. For all the new- old places and the new- new places... ask the Travel Man! THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 21 West 44th St., New York City

Page 47

December Il i THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU ALL MOTOR MOUNTAIN TRIP - HE mighty Roosevelt Dam, that marvelous monument to modern engineering skill, impounding the waters of Roose- velt Lake and changing a barren desert land into a land of fertile fields of fruits and flowers, is one of the thrilling sights of the Apache Trail between Globe and Phoenix, Arizona. This magic 120 mile “Trail,” once the narrow, rocky path of ferocious Red Men, is today a broad “mountain boulevard.” It is easily accessible to travelers via the | Sunset Route= * California Every mile a scene worth while Stupendous canyons, picturesque copper mining camps, prehistoric cliff dwellings and a thousand other wonders reward your journey through this fascinating Arizona country. Through sleepers direct to the ‘‘Trail. Rock Ballasted Road Bed—Oil Burning Locomotives, No Dust—No Seot—No Cindurs. New Orleans Los Angeles SUNSET — San Diezo San Francisco Houston San Antonio 1 Paso Tucson For information and pes address SOUTHERN PACIFIC LINES New York New Orleans Houston Tucson San Francisco 165 Broadway Pan-American Southern Pacific Score Bldg. Southern Pacific Bank Bldg. Bldg. Bldg. 1 br a doen SCA O ee he Deel LACOOUOU UN (AMV VOLUHLUALD RAL I j \fearasig ) Color, warmth, beauty, mystery! Alexandria, Monte Carlo, Algiers, Gibraltar —names that conjure up a world of colorful romance — places that offer a world of pleasure. See them all—and many more fascinating cities —on a skilfully directed voyage de luxe. The White Star liner Adriatic—January 5 and February 23. The Red Star liner Lap/and—January 16 and March 5. West Indies Leave winter behind and follow the summer sun to the age-old cities of the Caribbean. Sec gay Havana, Trinidad, Bermuda, Kingston, San Juan. See the Panama Canal. Twenty-nine glorious days of interesting relaxation. The White Star liner Megantic —specially constructed for cruising—January 23 and Feb- ruary 26. All sailings from New York For detailed information apply to No. 1 Broadway, New York, or any authorized steamship agent. WHITE STAR LINE RED STAR LINE “The I LUXURY CRUISE MEDIERRAN EAN’ PALESTINE +EGYPT Theou tstanding Cruise of the coming Winter Season, of absorbing interest to those who value luxurious comfort at sea, refined environment and pleasing personal service. Leaving New York, February 6, 1924 by the famous “‘ROTTERDAM” and Under the personal management of the HOLLAND-AMERICA LINE The ‘““ROTTERDAM”’ 24,170 tons register, 37,190 tons displacement Has a world-wide reputation for the magnificence and comfort of her appointments, the surpassing excellence of her cuisine and the high standards of service and management on board. (Sixty-Five Days of Delightful Diversion) ITINERARY includes Madeira, Portugal, Spain, Algiers, Tunis, Greece, Constantinople, the Holy Land and Egypt, Italy and the Riviera. Carefully planned Shore Excursions. Stopover in Europe. Cruise limited to 500 guests Illustrated folder ‘‘O’’ on request HOLLAND-AMERICA LINE 21-24 State Street, New York Boston Philadelphia Chicago St.Louis Detroit Atlanta,Ga. Seattle NewOrleans San Francisco Or any authorized Steamship Agent —thehighest i thatcanbe conveyed in gifts of good taste. The pleasure of giving is only exe ceeded bythe pleasure of receiving— SHERRY CHOCOLATES and BONBONS cleuiy Showy 300 a AVE. _ FIFTH LA 58th ST. WALDORE-A STORIA

Page 48

= ee

sae

“yi “ 4 &, 4 5M SOmICns

Pe anton af ie Ts EA for Christmas Dp i fs that are appreciated abnays

TRUNKS«d BAGS Belber Fitted Suitcase—just the gift that ap- peals to women who love pretty, practical things. Contains an ex- quisite toilet set in ivory, shell or amber. Remov. able trav. A splendid gift for men who travel is this handsome Belber Cowhide Suitcase. It is unusually conve- nient to pack. Made in a va- riety of leathers e ey ¥ se & Belber Safe- <9 Lock Wardrobe Trunk—a _ per- fect gift, and one that has a year-round util- ity. Equipped with every con- venience for traveling and for use as an extra closet at home. Men like this Belber Mahog- any Cowhide Kit Bag. Roomy, du- rable and rich with the quiet good taste that appeals so strongly to a man. Other styles in a wide range of prices.

Stores featuring the attractive Belber Spe- cials for Christmas will show you these and other practical, beautiful Belber Gifts. name Belber is your guaranty of the finest quality and the most reasonable prices. The Write for booklet showing Belber styles. THE BELBER TRUNK & BAG COMPANY, Philadelphia, Penna. World’s largest manufacturer of fine traveling goods

VORSO DE CREO PDO bx ee NF AGS: PIGS wt 2 No RR IC Y, aS 2 é COLSON 2

Ny ‘ ‘ ‘ \ N ’ s ‘ \

RAAT QUOBAS IWS ss SS CSS

Se

— WOW Courtesy Canadian Pacific |

Have You Skated at QUEBEC? OLD?... Br-r-r!.. . But it isn’t the damp cold that soaks in and grows moss on your soul. It’s Quebec coid that tingles and glows—riotously sunshiny over a thousand miles of snow—snow that lies six feet on the level—snow that drifts up to the second-floor windows of the white peasant farmhouses with their three chimneys smoking above the three-foot walls—snow that coaxes out the sleighbells and the snowshoes and the brilliant blanket coats, the skis, the tobog- gans full of giddy colour and squeals and roars of joy, the skaters that balance above the ice like human swallows. . The logs crackle in the Chateau Frontenac fire- places—the tea comes, smoking amber out of the silver pots—cinnamon toast never tasted as good as it does between skates, where you stamp right in on your shining blades, and nobody needs rouge because the air does it, and everybody sparkles because that’s the way you feel in Quebec... and then you swing out again, and the ice rings. . Why not go? . . . Come on! But if you can’t screw your courage to the freezing point, of course, there’s the South, or California, all golf bags, and palm trees, and lazy days under a striped umbrella. Tell the Travel Man what you like —and how much you’re willing to back it with—and he'll fix all the details... . Loves it. ... So’ll you! Write to THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 21 West 44th Street New York

City

.. i oo nL. aA 4 oF ao Ft FF © A

Page 49

December I 39

4 ae a

& —— b ae Mow

The dinner that failed The long-anticipated dinner to the Pembertons had come and gone. Alice had never planned better things to eat, nor looked more charming. Yet, of all parties, this, to his employer's family, had not been served smoothly. Alice felt it keenly, and almost tearfully laid it to the lack of silverware. She explained that spoons and forks had had to be washed between courses and that she had done without several of the necessary pieces. Silverware, he realized in that moment, was about as important as any item in the equipment of the home. He wondered why they didn’t have enough. Economy, probably; but certainly false economy. Va =X ) Are your wife’s dinners handicapped by the lack of silverware? And every 1847 Rogers Bros. pattern ITH an important dinner in prospect, comes in all the different kinds of pieces the can your wife depend upon her silver- ware to meet every requirement—to make entertaining easier? Or does she often have to limit her guests and to suffer disappoint- ment because the meal is not served as graciously as she and you desire? Perhaps she has felt that to provide all the pieces she needs would be both difficult and expensive. But it is neither! In 1847 Rogers Bros. Silverplate you can complete your table service at surprisingly small expense. And you can buy in quan- tities as small as you wish. A half-dozen dinner forks cost only $7.50. Other pieces are priced as sensibly. 1847

INTERNATIONAL SILVER CO. most particular hostess could desire. There are the refinements of the well-set table— bouillon spoons, ice cream forks and oyster forks—and fancy serving pieces that add beauty as well as convenience to the table. When you need more pieces you can pro- vide them easily; for leading dealers every- where have the newer 1847 Rogers Bros. patterns in stock. Our booklet M-96, “HOW MUCH SILVER- WARE,” has been written as a guide to the sensible purchasing of silverware for families of various sizes. Its conservative estimates are based upon actual experi- ence. You will find it very helpful. May we send you acopy? International Silver Co., Meriden, Conn. gc Dinner Fork

HERALDIC PATTERN

HERALDIC VEGETABLE DISH This practical piece matches the knives, forks and spoons of the Heraldic pattern. Ther are also tea sets, water pitchers, trays, and even vases to match the newer 1847 Rogers Bros. patterns.

Page 50

t 1, i& . : ‘ Obviously superior—not only in perform- ance and reliability and economy, but presenting an ease and comfort far above the usual in their class. It is not too late, if your order is placed now, to insure delivery for Christmas. Could there be a finer gift for the wife, the daughter, the family—the gift that many aman and wife have long promised themselves— than one of these beautiful good Maxwells? Cars which brought to America a new interpretation of European beauty. Features of Coupe and Sedan Upholstery in granite weave. Woodwork Standard equipment includes disc wheels and Seating arrangements very ample, with cush- ions and back rests positioned for greatest comfort. Unusually long springs impart superior riding qualities. Ease of driving emphasized by soft clutch and brake action; almost effortless steering. in walnut. Hardware in satin finish, with pleasing and unobstructed design. Yale lever locks; Yale key locks on doors. Sturdy construction eliminates the rumble often so noticeable in closed cars. non-skid cord tires front and rear, cow! venti- lator, heater in rear compartment, windshield visor and wiper, rear view mirror, parking lights and dome lights. Sedan, $1295; Coupe, $1195; Club Sedan, $1045; Club Coupe, $935, £. o. b. Detroit, tax extra. MAXWELL MOTOR CORPORATION, DETROIT, MICHIGAN MAXWELL-CHALMERS MOTOR COMPANY OF CANADA, LIMITED, WINDSOR, ONTARIO

Page 51

December 1 “ \\ ~ LAA (ss Re 2 —— ona aa a at Ne ge EING an adaptable person of no discernible age, Vogue can be as modern as its own covers and as sweetly appropriate as a holly wreath, all in the same breath. And that’s what the next issue is. Maybe your notion of holi- day entertainment is Florence Mills in the middle of a spot- light; maybe it’s Str6eva making us feel how unfinished Ameri- cans are; maybe it’s going up to the country, all snowy and still, and having a Christmas right out of Dickens. Whatever it is, you'll find yourself quite happy with that Holiday Num- ber, whether you choose to skip the pages pleasing to other temperaments or not. Having divided on our interests as to entertainment, we’ll all come together again on clothes: clothes from Paris, sketched in the last fortnight, over by the last boat; clothes in New York, seen at the Ritz, at Montmartre; clothes made by Vionnet; clothes worn by Leonore Hughes; clothes as planned and sketched for the fastidious lady of the moderate dress allowance by one of the cleverest of Vogue’s editors, who discovers a new fur cloth and smart evening dresses at modest prices; clothes from the shops to fill winter sports needs with economy and distinction. Then, there are the new shoes, too, from Hellstern in Paris and from Bob in New York—shoes that lead the marching files of all smart shoes the world over, never so important in the scheme of things as they are today. And stockings, too— noisette, albino, apricot, tourterelle—, all the new shades. At the end of the book—a rushing postscript—, there are a few pages of last-minute Christmas gifts for the desperate. Just enough of them to secure Vogue’s halo firmly on its neatly coiffed head and win your lifelong devotion, if you’re one of the vast family of the Putitoffs, of whom there are more in the spiritual Social Register than our before-handed grandmothers would ever have believed possible. This all-important issue will be on the news-stands on December 10th. Be sure to reserve your copy early. | | HOLIDAY NUMBER. CHRISTMAS GIFTS NUMBER Cover Design by Georges Lepape Mrs. Norman Ogden Whitehouse - Frontispiece The Grande Dame in the Hunting-Field - 43-46 Paris Fashions - - -+ - - - - = - 4-51 The Newest American Sports Clothes - - 52-57 The Slender.Day and Evening Mode - 58-59 Bakst Analyses the Slim Silhouette - - 60-61 Up-to-Date Devices for Diversion - - - 62-63 Miss Rhoda Cameron - - - 64 Editorial: The Madness of Acquisition - 65 Society Snapshots - - - - - - = = 66-67 New York Fashions - - - - - = = 68-69 New Neck-lines for Next to Nothing - - 70 French Modes for French Children - - 71 Party Frocks for the Girl - - - - - 72-73 Where the Other Half Lives during the Day - - - - = = - 2+ © © = = (445 Seen on the Stage -_- - - - = - - 76-77 Distinguished Men of the Stage - - - 78 High Lights of the Dancing Shows o New York - - - - - ---e - 79 Seen in the Shops - - - - - - = - 80-81 Christmas Gifts - - - - - 82-90, 122, 140-142 Vogue Designs for the Seamstress - - - 92 On Her Dressing-Table - - - - = - 94 Soctety- - ---+-+eec ce ee = 96 For the Hostess - - = = = 2 2 © = 98 Paris Croquis - - + = = = = = 124-130 What They Read - - = - - - = 144-146 Title Vogue registered in the U. S. Patent Office Copyright, 1923, by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc. VOL. NO. 62 NO. 11 WHOLE NO. 1228 OGUE is published on the first and the fifteenth of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Ine. New York: 19 West 44th Street Cable address: Vonork London: Rolls House, Breams Building, London, E. C., England. Cable address: Vogdon Paris: 2 rue Edouard VII., Paris, France. Cable address: Vopar : Condé Nast, President; Francis L. Wurzburg, Vice-F'resident; W. E. Beckerle, Treasurer; M. E. Moore, Secretary; Edna Woolman Chase, Editor; Heyworth Campbell, Art Director; Fhilippe Ortiz, European Director. Manuscripts must be accompanied by postage for their return if unavailable. Vogue assumes no responsibility for unsolicited contributions except to accord them courteous attention and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless the drawings are sent at the order of Vogue or by arrangement with its New York office. Subscriptions for the United States, Panama Canal Zone, Porto Rico, Hawaii, Canada, and the Philippines, $5 a year in advance. Single copies, 35 cents. For other countries, subseription prices will be furnished on request, Remit by cheque, dreft, or postal or express money order. Other re- mittances at sender’s risk. Change of Address.—The address of subscribers can be changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please give both the new address and the name and address exactly as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. Four weeks’ notice is required for changing an address or for a new subscription. Entered as second class matter February 16, 1910. at the Post Office at New York, N. Y., under the act of March 3, 1879. Printed in the U. S. A. Cable Address: Vonork. vane UN TE pan for December 1, 1923 41

Page 52

Sh hn SBI Mei i, 5 SO AEP 5 IR BE Rt it ae lt Dae HRA Ei ii oa BT i a i an oer. | ee em AR SAR RP RAN NR sR Re ee Be Lis ae gt oa a TOMA: RT RE Ra R iene bE a eee 2ERIOEE Reo oe REAR RRR OCE* te RRR RE NERS 2d SCR RNR: Charlotte Fairchild MRS. NORMAN OGDEN WHITEHOUSE Mrs. Whitehouse, before her marriage, was the Princesse Tamara Bagration Moukhransky; her former home was in Caucasian Russia. Mr. Whitehouse ts one of a family of very popular brothers, including Mr. William F. Whitehouse and Mr. Sheldon Whitehouse. Mr. and Mrs. Whitehouse divide their time between their New York and Newport houses

Page 53

December 1 43 VOGUE NEWMARKET To motor down to the meet, one is wise to wear a huge coat of cheviot warmly lined and collared with fur THE GRANDE DAME IN THE HUNTING-FIELD The Royal Sport of Stag-Hunting, with Its Delightful Old Cere- monials, Its Brilliant Regalia, and Its Fine Sportsmanship, Sur- vives As a Charming Feature of Modern Country Life in France OST people have visited that beautiful Touraine country to which the kings of France loved to hasten for repose after the fatigues of town life and where, in all quar- ters, we find traces of their sojourn; royal dwell- ings abound there, pure masterpieces of archi- tecture which we can never look at without re- newed emotion. When we go to the Chateau de Chambord and come out panting upon the great esplanade of the immense roofs, we are told that, from here, ladies of the courts of Francois I. and Charles IX. followed with eager eyes the great hunts of those times. And, imagination aiding us, we figure to ourselves what must have been the marvellous pageant of the flying pack, the galloping horses, sweeping like the wind past the ponds and through the virgin forests in full cry after their quarry until nightfall. We can almost sec the long, floating skirts of the horsewomen, whose hats were finely adorned with feathers and whose saddles were enriched with superb orna- Eat MOTSCH The time-honoured black felt tricorne is here shown trimmed with gold galloon and the button of one’s own hunt. It is pulled low on the head ments, not at all prophetic of the outfit of our present-day hunts. Nevertheless, though fashions have changed, the ceremonial of the hunt is very little altered; a good huntsman is still what he was under Louis XIII. or Henri II. If we could reassemble such packs as were possessed by our sovereigns, Francois I. and Henri IV., they would be the pride of our brilliant modern kennels, which, alas, deprived of their glories, we have seen diminish since the war. But, as if the device of every great huntsman were “Quand méme,” we have watched them all recover their prewar smartness: those of L’Aigle, Andigné, Uzés, Le- baudy, Vallon, Murat, and others, where women are by no means afraid to be first at the throw in or at sounding the call to assemble the hounds —since it is understood that those who wear the uniform of the hunt with which they are in the habit of riding have the right to sound the horn, though they rarely use this right. When the meet is far from the place of resi-

Page 54

4k

(Right) The Vallon hunt is here as- sembled to receive the blessing of Saint Hubert from the vil- lage curé—a charm- ing French tradition entesonee te

Sts “pray? “ny Wnnyy Vy, > My

MOTSCH

The conventional black derby hat should properly be secured by an elastic

¥ \ i MQ

as

The Duchesse de Gramont, very sportsmanlike in the colours of the Gra- mont hunt — garnet and vyellow—,- fol- lows the chase on her cob

Despite her habit of riding astride, Mademoiselle de Longuerue is an ac- complished huntress of the old school, even sounding the hunting-horn

(Left) The chase ended in the park at Senlis; the faithful hounds impatiently await the moment of battling over their <e Ae ae oa , F ™ — . J share of the spoils

Page 55

December l dence, people usually go to it in carriages, find- ing their horses, which a groom has taken over that morning or the night before, according to the distance to be covered. At Chantilly, Com- piégne, or Ermenonville, there is nothing to pre- vent a woman’s making the three or five kilo- metres on her hunter before she arrives at the meet. Nine times out of ten, the rendezvous is not far from the house where one is staying. In Touraine, Brittany, or Poitou, the hunt is moved continually from one forest to another, so that it is often an expedition in itself to arrive at the meeting-place. We must go further into details and speak of the costume for hunting, showing that of the woman who makes part of the assemblage itself and that of the woman who comes as a neigh- bour or guest in ordinary riding-clothes. To be a member of the hunt means, in hunting terms, “to have the button.” This button is a special thing with each establishment, since it is this which marks the uniform. Here are some of the costumes, all of them among the most dis- tinguished and the best known. The Andigné Hunt, in Anjou: a royal-blue riding-coat with scarlet collar and trimmings, red waistcoat and stockings. and white breeches; the head of a deer on the button. The Pracomtal Hunt, in the Niévre: blue riding-coat with canary coloured trimmings. The Uzés Hunt: scarlet coat with blue waist- coat, collar, and trimming. The Gramont Hunt, at Valliére: garnet col- oured coat with yellow trimmings. The Murat Hunt, at Chantilly: hussar-blue. The Lorge Hunt, at Sologne: dark blue coat with amethyst trimmings. The head of The smart side-saddle habit is of heavy dark coloured whipcord worn with soft patent leather boots and a melon hat NEWMARKET For riding “en cavalier,’ New- market makes a habit of tan whip- cord with its. breeches laced in front and fitted closely at the knee BAR-SLAY The white piqué cravat knotted in the ceremonial hunting-manner 1s always fastened with. a_ gold- mounted stag-horn pin a wild boar distinguishes its hunting-button. The L’Aigle Hunt: I'ght grey coat with ruby velvet collar and cuffs and amethyst velvet waistcoat. The Lebaudy Hunt: French riding-coat in garnet colour with green collar, cuffs, and trim- mings and gold braid. The Vallon Hunt: violet-blue coat with lapis- blue velvet collar and cuffs and three buttons on the sleeve; ruby velvet waistcoat. The Souzy Hunt: blue coat with grey velvet waistcoat cut en basque. The Menier Hunt: costume of garnet-red trimmed with hunting-braid; braided red waist- coat en basque. 45 The Champchevrier Hunt, the oldest estab- lishment, dates from 1810. The coat is Condé, or tawn-yellow, with trimmings, collar, waist- coat, and breeches of amethyst; the button is gold with a galloping silver stag in the centre. How can one heip loving this sport? The in- tense joy of the rapid motion, flying on horse- back through the depths of the forest under the russet leaves of autumn, over the lonely crossroads, while, far off, at the wood’s edge, stretches the loveliness of the romantic French landscape. And, indeed, one can not help being mad about hunting from the moment one be- gins, even a little, to follow this entrancing pur- suit. Towards the end of the summer, one should hear lovers of the chase enthusiastically speaking their special language among themselves! ‘This, Roger Boutet de Monvel describes in a very technical and charming article, as “that delightful hunter’s talk, full of sound and colour.” One should see them calculating the chances of a good horse, the probabilit’es of the weather, and such things. In this sport, also, those whom tra- dition interests will find nobie customs guarded intact, ceremonials fallen into disuse, but. stili preserved, and, at times, a certain pomp to which the least snobbish can not remain quite indif- ferent, such as the “honour of the foot” after the kill. The quarry is “at bay”; that is to say, he can go no further, being surrounded by the dogs; and one of the huntsmen, or the master of the hunt (generally the master) gives him the coup de grace, which is a knife thrust through the heart. This is the time when men and women slide from the saddle to their feet, glad to stretch themselves and to exchange visws with those who have fo lowed the chase in c¢ar- BURBERRY A Burberry waterproof of heavy woollen material is indispensable to the ardent sportswoman who hunts in all weathers

Page 56

(Below) The Dowa- ger Duchesse d’Uxés hunts habitually in a habit of black whip- cord and a starched gilet with a tricorne on her snowy hair Georges Royer, Paris riages and arrive at this moment. One never knows how the people in carriages manage to follow, but, nine times out of ten, they arrive at the kill. If the hunt master is a gallant rian, he has that call sounded which is known as the “Caléche des Dames,” and every one sits down to lunch. This is a joy to all, for hunger is general; out of the carriages are taken quan- tities of eatables and drinkables, and this is really one of the best moments in the day. While the ladies and gentlemen are recuper- ating, the huntsmen are cutting up the ani- mal, keeping the best pieces for themselves or distributing them to the peasants, who are helping, and putting the remains on the spread-out skin of the deer. The mas- ter of the hunt will not have forgotten to indicate which person among the company _ (usually a lady) is to receive the honour of the foot. From this foot, the bone has been taken, the skin has been carefully braided to about fifty centimetres beyond the hoof; the huntsman places the foot on his cap and accompanies the master, who advances to the chosen lady and, bowing. (Continued on page 160) BARCLAY HELLSTERN NEWMARKET (Lejt) A member of a hunt may wear a Newmarket coat of scarlet melton and a black whipcord skirt cut for equal ele- gance in the saddle or on foot (Below) The Duch- esse de Chartres pauses a moment to discuss the run with Prince Murat,dressed in his hunt colours— hussar-blue and red

Page 57

December 1 LANVIN’S COSTUMES FOR PAULETTE DUVAL, THE PARISIAN ACTRESS WHO APPEARS THIS SEASON IN THE ZIEGFELD FOLLIES 47 Paulette Duval is shown at the left (8) examining with the eye of a connoisseur the sketches of the gowns de- signed for her use in Amer- ica. She wears a tailleur of dark green kasha with col- lar and cuffs of skunk and an intricate trimming oy fine tucks and braid (1) The gown sketched at the upper left on the page, with a rose coloured crépe marocain bodice embroi- dered in black and a skirt of black velvet, is very be- coming to Paulette Duval, whose beauty is well known to Paris theatregoers (2) A coat of the new pis- tache-green kasha (upper row, centre) has a collar and cuffs of chinchilla. It ts embroidered and trimmed with blocks of fine shirring. A frock of green crépe turco is worn with it (3) Black kasha makes the three-quarter length coat at the upper right, which is jaced with embroidery in browns of many shades. The collar and tuffs are of brown flying squirrel, which is known as “tagouan” (4) A gown of chestnut col- oured crépe marocain (cen- tre, right) has varicoloured embroidery on the skirt, girdle, collar, and cuffs. The collar, made in the scarf fashion so much in vogue, is high in front and knotted at the back (5) At the centre appears a “robe de style” of heaey black faule with an opening in the front. The skirt 1s embroidered in ‘silk with large coloured flowers. and, like the sleeves, bordered with skunk (6) Silver beads and em- broidery enliven the gown of black crépe turco (cen- tre, bottom row). One end of a rose-pink crépe scarf trails from a bow on the hip to the floor, while the other end may be draped over the shoulder (7) A frock of black crépe marocain (right; bottom row) 1s embroidered at the sides of the blouse in many- toned browns to blend with the trimming on thé black kasha coat (3) with which it is to be worn

Page 58

HAIRCLOTH = STIFFEN- ING IS A NEW NOTE AT CHERUIT’S CHERUIT Close and slender as the body of a butterfly is the silhouette of this gown of silver and white moire. The lengths composing back and front are cut much wider than the body, but are sewed to- gether very close at the sides of the figure; then, the side pieces which stick out are stiffened with haircloth. The entire gown is cov- ered with motifs of silver soutache and bright silver paillettes. There are two shoulder-straps on one arm and one on the other. The décol- letage is round and much deeper in back than in front

Page 59

December 1 CHERUIT INTRODUCES A SENSATIONAL EVENING SILHOUETTE CHERUIT That fanciful mixture of Chinese and Hindu which constitutes the Cambodian silhouette is illustrated in this gown of silver cloth. The tunic, which is quite flat back and front to the waist-line, flares from that point over the hips. This flare, which is greater at one side than the other, is stiffened with haircloth. The gown is embroi- dered in a Chinese pattern car- ried out in a chain-stitching of cop- per thread and in single lines of fine beads that shade from pink to coral-red and from green to turquoise-blue

Page 60

sete mss | | | | RAP RR meena cE CRIN MRLE EI IN ae VOGUE RENEE MAKES CHIC THRE SCARF COLLAR (Extreme left) A gown of black chiffon has an adaptable two-piece scarf collar weighted to swing hke a cape over the tightly wrapped bodice. Like the uneven skirt and panel, the collar is edged with fine Russian pony resembling broadtail and called gaiac (Left) A fringed scarf is attached to the bateau neck-line of a gown of téte de négre crépe satin, use- ful for many occasions. The scar} may be.worn about the neck as sketched or hanging _ straight. Fringe edges the sash which hangs over the straight double skirt Beaver coloured velours de laine makes a coat-dress which has a scarf .collar of beaver fur lined with the material, pin-tucked to match the xigzag tucks of the skirt. One end of the scarf slips through the other; for indoors, it turns back into revers

Page 61

SF) | ae wn —_ December 1 NEW MODELS f ——— FROM LOUISE- BOULANGER OOS NON OR Na Bi (Right) A full width of the heavy pink satin of a gown characteristic of Louiseboulanger forms a torsade across the front and ends in a long side train. The novel paper fan, exclusive in its variations with this house, has cubist designs of gold, silver, and black paper (Extreme right) An evening gown of yellow chiffon velvet has the gathers in the front of the skirt irawn upwards under the fichu- like bodice. The odd sleeves—one real sleeve, one a_ circular rufle—are embroidered in gold and tiny gold paillettes A short Hudson seal coat is worn with a frock of tchinellaine, a heavy wool jersey in two blended colours—in this case, black and yellow. The front of the skirt 1s gathered; the bodice has a diagonal cut in back, and the collar hangs in two black bands in front

Page 62

VOGUE THE NEWEST AMERICAN SPORTS CLOTHES Rough, Woolly Fabrics in Neutral Colours or in the New Plaids Achieve the Studied Informality Necessary to Smartness is never the least trouble in choosing clothes for the country. From time immemorial—that is to say, the ’nineties—, the mode in country clothes has been built around just such lovers of out-of-doors, women of robust mentality and physique. ‘The simplicity, the informality, the allowable spice of dash fits them as easily as their golf gloves. Doubtless, there is an English strain somewhere, if only in their souls. But, of late years, there has arisen a greater variety in the country wardrobe because ll women, whether of the out-of-door type or not, live some portion of their lives away from town. Almost every one goes in for some form of sport. Even the Frenchwoman, apotheosis of the feminine, demands her sports clothes. Conse- quently, the most daringly inventive geniuses of the couture employ their talents in this field. Even when the chic Parisienne has reduced her country wardrobe to a plain cloche on her head, English shoes on her feet, and a sleeveless, collar- less, all but formless dress, the creators go on luring her with newer and still newer inventions —and who knows when she will forsake her cun- ningly simplified gods for something more elaborate? In any case, Vogue is presenting this portfolio of six pages, showing the best clothes offered in Ii one is the tweed-skirt type of woman, there MODELS FROM DOBBS The principal of this gay little fashion revue wears a beige and brown plaid suit with detachable cape of brown wool. The ladies of the ensemble are costumed (left to right) in a simple green velours suit; a cape of camel’s- hair cloth with a lynx collar, over a sports frock; a cape suit in the fa- voured large plaids; and a yellow and white checked woollen cape worn with an all-white skirt and sweater Paris and New York: for the woman who likes extreme simplicity in her country clothes and for the woman who does not; for the active sportswoman and the gentle onlooker; for the young girl and the older woman; for the tweed- skirt type, the litt!e pastel, and the terribly modern person who regards an unnecessary but- ton as a mortal sin. Vogue invites you to wander up and down in this small sports-wear shop on paper and equip yourself for your own version of country life. The question of fabrics is the first consideration in assembling a wardrobe for the country. Gen- erally speaking, only those materials of informal feeling are appropriate. High lustre disqualifies; so does extreme fineness and smoothness of weave. The ideal country fabric for this time of year has a warmth of appearance, a certain engaging woolliness, whether the material be woven or knitted. In addition, it must be weather-resisting to at least some extent, and, above all, it must be uncrushable, since no man likes to hear a woman decline a walk or a game because of her clothes—or look as though she should have declined her clothes before contemplating the game. But tweed, kasha, jersey, and the knitted materials do not exhaust the list. The older woman would do well to consider the relative kindness of duvetine and pile fabrics, as opposed to the harsher textures. If she chooses only those of the rougher, duller, softer types, her clothes will be appropriate and, at the same time, becoming. And why should one bow to convention and extinction at the same time, if one may pass extinction by? Brown, beige, and variations of the shades found in earth and sand, the bark of trees, dead

Page 63

December 1 leaves, and the browner furs are pre- eminently the country colours of the mo- ment. Greys come next. Indeed, browns and greys are often combined, though dis- cretion must be exercised lest the value of one colour overpower the other. A little hat very popular at present is itself brown, but is trimmed with brown and grey ribbon to unite the two colours harmoniously when they occur in one costume or to make it appropriate for two different ensembles. This hat, by the way, was the corner-stone of a costume evolved by a smart American in Paris, who chose the dress at the lower right on page 56 and the cape at the right above it. The former was in a soft brown wool duvetine—a brown that had enough grey in it to be able to fraternize with the cape of brown kasha, collared with flax coloured fur. The grey and brown hat ribbons enabled the wearer to choose either brown or grey shoes and stockings. And, when she felt an urge for colour, there was a certain rose coloured batik scarf that, twisted about her throat, made worlds of difference in a grey and brown day. Had she been of a more pronounced blonde or brunette type, the scarf wouldn’t have been rose. Madame must evolve her own version of the idea at her leisure. Before we leave the subject of colour in the country, we must note the real feeling for green this year—partially due, no doubt, to the charming things Chanel has done with it. Green, of course, is a young, strong, vivid thing, and it must be used with dis- SIX MODELS FROM DOBBS Chanel’s unique sports costume (left) has a high-necked blouse of green kasha and a skirt which parts to show pantalettes. The “Teddy-bear” cloth lining of a Lelong coat (right) of tan wool appears also in its cuffs and collar Excellent for country wear are these Oxfords of light and dark brown cowhide with an ankle strap; from Shoecraft (Left) Two points of ad- vantage in this country coat (first figure) with raglan sleeves are the fab- ric—brown suéde—and the smart three-quarter length. A boyish jacket of green suede (second figure) has a suéde helmet to match (Right) Grass-green kasha makes a two-piece country costume (first figure) with a jaunty touch of striped silk in tie and pocket edges. A simple frock of flannel (second figure) in dead-leaf colour has a skirt finely pleated on each side 33 cretion by those who have reached the years which supposedly exercise that ad- mirable quality. Black, so good in town, is the only hue that seems forever impossible out under the wide skies, unless, indeed, it is combined with white in one of those strik- ing ensembles permitted only to the vivid, black-haired, pale-skinned type that wears it so effectively. The cap in the centre of page 56 is part of such a costume, worn by a débutante who chose a white camel’s- hair serge with black banding to complete an effect that verged, to be sure, on the theatrical, but was immensely well done. An important note in the sports year is plaid, which has taken the field more suc- cessfully than at any time in recent seasons —in capes and suits, especially, and in an occasional skirt. Many detachable plaid capes are made to accompany a coat and skirt—a very convenient and sensible fash- ion, since it virtually achieves a two-season costume in one. But let no one hail the plaids with undue fervour. They present opportunity for error, as well as for dis- tinction. For, while plaids couldn’t be bet- tered for the country, they are not always suitable for town. In this way, they re- semble the capes made of them. For capes are at ease in the motor and rejoice at the country club, but they are fading from the picture so far as street wear is concerned. A most delightful chance ta use colour is given by the Rodier fabrics, in which most of the French sports things shown here are developed. Laine -chinée, previously re-

Page 64

ferred to, is a soft material eminently suitable to the country, usually combining in the weave white and brown or white and grey wool in such a way as to give a two-toned effect to the surface. Frequently, there is a brilliant border, yellow, perhaps, which the couturiers use in- geniously in such a dress and cape as is shown on page 57, from Lucien Lelong After such general remarks about fabrics and colours, it is time to begin the serious business of collecting our own sports wardrobe. We shall need to consider coats and capes, suits, skirts and blouses, sweaters, hats, shoes, stock- ings, and accessories—and here they are in inter- esting variety. With the selection of plaids and the Rodier fabric8, one has touched the top of the mode so far as the coat or cape is concerned. Indeed, this coat is apt to be the most noticeable and the gayest thing one wears in the country. Any woollen fabric sufficiently heavy and informal, Expensive jewels, such as dia- monds, in the rough of a golf course are out of bounds of good taste Plaids and lassies make a com- bination more charming in the country than on Park Avenue A new feature of country modes is the very thin lace veil for the onlooker at sports In fabrics for sports, high lustre, extreme fineness, and smoothness of weave disqualify (Left) From Abercrombie and Fitch comes this knitted wool suit worn with a striped slip-on sweater and scarf, all in brown tones (Left) Dobbs provides two (Right, top) Chanel’s pleated mannish silk overblouses with skirt for country wear is of tucked vestees to be worn with wool material, and it fastens smart Scotch plaid skirts on each hip; from Dobbs (Right) V omen use men’s hand- (Right) Delightfully warm and kerchiefs and wear lisle or wool woolly is this white homespun hose with grey suéde Oxfords circular skirt with a striped from Abercrombie and Fitch silk slip-on; Peck and Peck (Below) Heavy yet flexible doeskin gloves with leather reinforced fingers or knuckles are excellent for the golfer; Abercrombie and Fitch 00

Page 65

December l however, may be chosen. The coat from Lelong at the upper right on page 53, tan in colour, lined, collared, and cuffed with an inexpensive cloth fur that Paris calls “Teddy-bear,” would be an excellent choice for utility, as well as for smartness. So, too, would be the cape in laine chinée. . . . But one should go through the port- folio in detail and choose to suit oneself. Only the less formal, less expensive furs are suitable for trimming—badger is perhaps the most popu- lar, though lynx, wolf, and racoon will also be worn. Leather remains good, both as a trimming and as a coat material. One sees it binding the edges of a tricot jacket at the lower left on page 56; it appears as buttons on the frock at the lower right on the same page. It makes the brown suéde coat with raglan sleeves, deep pockets, and high collar, at the lower left on page 53, an ideal coat for motoring. The short, man- nish coat next to it, that buttons down the centre and has a helmet hat to match, is in a green (Continued on page 148) The golfer’s wardrobe continues to be knit together by sweaters of every description Coats of many colours relieve the neutrality of the suits or frocks beneath Black, so smart for town, casts a shadow over the gaiety of country activities Brown, beige, and earth shades are the country colours of the smart world (Left, top figure) This country suit from Dobbs 1s of tan-striped brushed wool with huge cuffs and a deep collar of soft lambskin Ce Ee el ee, a (Left) Initialled handkerchiefs and woollen stockings from Peck and Peck and grey suéde Oxfords are smart accessories (Left) H Jaeckel makes Paquin’s sports coat gf toile de laine, a delightfully soft material, lux- uriously edged with badger (Right, top figure) A top-coat inate ae aa de Oe oe from H. Jaeckel has dark grey diagonal stripes on a grey wool ground and a collar of lynx (Right) A Shetland sweater of gay pattern from Peck and Peck appears above H.Jaeckel’s racoon-trimmed plaid coat (Below) Nothing is better for golf or motoring on a frosty day than gloves of tan doeskin buttoning over the back of the wrist \ So es os een ee Pues se as ar ne 7

Page 66

(Left) A coat which ap- pears with equal non- chalance for walking in town or country 1s of serge frangée, a Ro- dier fabric; from Im- perial (Left) A decided nov- elty is Jane Régny’s cap of knitted wool. The cap fits the head, and the long end wraps twice around the neck and then hangs free lke a scarf (Right) This cape, with its delightfully adjusta- ble silhouette, is su- premely smart in brown kasha with flax coloured wolf trimmings; Jane Régny FRENCH MODELS SUITABLE FOR AMERICAN COUNTRY WEAR = . + SS a SS ae = = ‘" = =4=523 2rgeNs, - ae aC Sn “= - tw S (Right, first figure) This walking costume has a nat- ural serge skirt and a jacket of chestnut coloured em- broidered tricot edged with deerskin; Jane Régny (Left) Cleverly designed for freedom on the links or in walking is this frock of brown woollen material bound and buttoned with deerskin; Jane Régny be == ne as a, cdl #E i 35 ed >_> = f (Right, second figure) To replace the overworked sweater, one may adopt a slender three-quarter jacket of green silk tricot with gay flower embroidery on the large pockets; Lebreton

Page 67

December 1 Lucien Lelong’s cape of tchinellaine de serkla in grey with a stripe of yellow 1s appropriate both for country lanes and the avenues of town (Below) These smart models from Perugia are (left) beige sealskin cunningly designed to make the smallest foot appear smaller and a golf shoe of (right) alligator skin with a large, flat heel Mah The quality of smartness in the country ensemble undeniably lies in the touch of sophistication possessed by Yteb’s frock of green charmel- laine with its pleated cape To subjugate one’s unruly locks on the tennts-court or golf-links, one needs a close-fitting head-dress such as these bandeaux of plain and braided ribbon from Antoine A frock for wear beneath the cape at the left has chic slenderness of line. Side pleats allow the freedom neces- sary for sports; Lucien Lelong (Below, left) A bright coloured leather saddle fastens this smart, flat-heeled, white leather tennis shoe firmly to the foot. Alligator hide makes the beautifully fitted walking shoe at the right; Perugia

Page 68

A simple suit of crépe from Worth appears almost like a spring frock, but is warmly interlined; the three top pleats belong to the coat. The collar and cuffs are of sable. The black felt hat from Reboux has a felt bow A Vionnet tailored frock (second figure) is made of men’s mixture ma- terial in so dark a shade of grey that it appears almost black; a belt of red suéde closes with two cir- cular steel buckles at the front simplicity. The chic Parisienne depends, not on decoration, but on her personal charm set off by the simple, but exquisite perfection of her costume. Exaggeratedly slim lines accentuate the plainness of gowns worn with skirts distinct- ively, though not emphatically, short. Even long coats are moulded to the figure. The effect of severity is further stressed by very small hats, with the cloche still predominating. More natural make-up is used. Very plain semitailored suits are still popular. Silver fox is the favourite fur, and fur collars'‘on the coats are very high. The suéde gloves that are usually worn are nearly al- ways beige or occasionally grey; but rarely white. ; [ \HE smart daytime costume is of pronounced (Third figure) In this Paquin frock of a woollen fabric the colour of covert-cloth, the skirt, which buttons to a low belt in front, has two bias folds at each side. The ribbon- trimmed Reboux hat is of green felt Vionnet’s plain black twill suit (fourth figure) has a round black belt like a dog leash; a concealed front pleat gives freedom. On Vionnet’s coat of grey homespun (fifth figure), opossum fur crosses stole fashion SIMPLICITY IS THE KEY-NOTE OF THE DAYTIME COSTUME

Page 69

December 1 (First figure) A Vionnet gown of ivory velvet has gold embroidery in classical design down the centre front and back. A red velvet wrap from Worth (second figure) is em- broidered in gold and red flowers A youthful Chanel model (third figure) is made of the new satin fulgurante — a favourite of this house—in bleu de nuit. The smart place to wear flowers now is on one shoulder of the evening gown HE evening silhouette of the smart woman is reed-like in its slimness. Simplicity of line is compensated for by gorgeousness of texture. Embroideries, jewelled trimmings, and furs embellish gowns of velvet, crépe, and maro- tain. Most chic gowns have rounded neck-lines in front and extremely low-cut backs. Black is seldom seen. Peach colour and rosy orchid shades are favourites, and gold, silver, and flame colour are lavishly used in designs. Skirts vary in length; sometimes, the length ranges from short to long in the same gown. Very handsome bro- cades, embroideries, and velvets enriched with furs make the wraps. Hair is closely dressed and, if short, shingled in back. ap aN Se oe — Worth presents a gorgeous evening wrap of brilliant Oriental material with a background of cloth of gold brocaded in black, rose, and green. The oval overcape is very new and follows the line of the figure Lovely golden brown velvet shirred and flounced makes a practical eve- ning cape (fifth figure) which blends with the varied shades of the gowns. The large collar and band about the shoulders are of ermine; from Paquin BRILLIANCE IS A FEATURE OF THE SLENDER EVENING MODE

Page 70

ZAK f r A FAMOUS ARTIST ANALYSES THE SLIM SILHOUETTE Art and Science, Diplomatically Combined, Can Solve for Many Women the Agonizing Problem of the Fashionable Figure By LEON BAKST OT long ago, I gave a lecture in New York on the principles which should govern the creation of the modern woman’s,costume. When actually launched on the delivery of the address, I was overcome with the enormous scope of the subject and with my inadequate analy- sis of it on that occasion. Consequently, I have been impelled to put down in more concrete form the result of the experi- ments which I have made in costuming— for the stage and for society—to suit fig- ures of many different types. THE ORIGIN OF INTEREST Being, primarily, a painter, the art of costuming appeared to me, at first, a sort of delightful game. But, by imperceptible stages, I came to appreciate the more se- rious ramifications of the subject, and so, by degrees, I became a direct collaborator with the couturiers and with the directors of the theatres. In that way, it has come about that for several years my name has been connected with the mode. It has been my singular good fortune to observe my costumes, not only on the somewhat inexpressive shoulders of the mannequins, but worn by Réjane, Ida Rubinstein, Pavlowa, Karsavina, Kousnet- zoft, Cécile Sorel, and Simone when they appeared in them to thrill the hearts of thousands. It has long since been shown that the seeming caprices of feminine toilettes are due to efforts to reveal the beauties and conceal the defects to which humanity is heir, and it is the same end, exactly, which I attempt to accomplish by means of a union of art with the technical sci- ence of line, of colour, and of texture. In designing a woman’s costume, the first point to consider—and the most im- portant—is the silhouette. To-day, that is a word of infinite meaning; and, in its successful interpretation, it is the touch- stone which turns all glances into admir- ing ones. In the art of costuming, it is the main essential. If one can attain the correct silhouette, the battle is won; the rest is but a trifling matter of technical artifice: artistic arrangement of colour, a clever coiffeur, and a suitable make-up. The latter, by the way, has received more attention than it really deserves. Nevertheless, it is no easy matter to cor- rect or improve upon the silhouette. For—as Ingres said of drawing, which is the skeleton of a picture—it must be truthful, above all else. Unfortunately, through a curious short-sighted- ness, the majority of women attach an undue importance to the face; they insist on concen- trating all their energies upon this portion of MOMS SEES BS! ABE SB BE AE 4 portrait by Bakst, of Mrs. John W. Garrett, of Baltimore, shows an interesting use of black and white in giving the correct emphasis to the out- line of a figure their bodies. From there, they shift their atten- ‘tion to the hands, then to the feet, and—as for the rest—le reste ne semble venir que longtemps apres.” One sees this same fault in young painters— they study and examine their subject from too near-by; they hypnotize themselves. I claim that ‘ true appreciation of a beautiful woman i demands withdrawal to a suitable distance : so that one may more easily admire the ensemble. Hence, the silhouette’s the | thing; it is responsible for first impres- sions; and we all know how devastating they can be. Another reason why the mode of the moment has become so tyrannical in its determination to suppress the round lines dear to our grandfathers and to eliminate the abundant curves that caused the beaux of the Second Empire to swoon with ap- preciation is that it has a new ideal in view. This ideal is closely related to the Greek’s conception of Artemis—or Diana, the Huntress, if you prefer the Roman name—, Diana, the slim chaste goddess, taller, more svelte than her sister god- desses; Diana, the vigorous Diana of the cool, clear eyes, slender arms, long legs, and virile breast; Diana, who, to-day, Mesdames, is the ideal woman, the belle of the hour. THINNESS THE ULTIMATE END Let us, then, like Diana, be thin! This is the cry, and this is the desire that haunts the woman of to-day who may at- tain her ideal only at the price of such cruel, such regrettable sacrifices. But far be it from me to decry this new ideal, at the birth of which, I am told, I have assisted. Instead, let us try to throw a little light on the situation in order to achieve this all too slender sil- houette which outlines the modern con- ception of feminine pulchritude. In a woman’s silhouette, there are two distinct beauties which one must learn to discern and understand separately. The first is the beauty of the bone construc- tion, of the “carcass,” as it is called in the slang of the Paris studios. It is a natural beauty, if one may so phrase it. No sci- ence on earth can aid or improve upon the charm effected by the simple and per- fect joining of a white hand to a slender wrist, a round shoulder to a curved breast, a perfectly proportioned neck to a straight back, and a thin ankle to a well-shaped foot. Like a magnificent dog or horse— forgive, Mesdames, this comparison, since it is in your praise—, the woman who possesses beautiful articulation (as it is called in anatomy) is a woman of race: sick or well, she always bears the mark of physical perfection. I have heard doctors say that exercise and sports, during the age of de- velopment, will help nature to perfect her work, but I do not think that I quite believe them. Another beauty is that of the covering of the bones, the muscles and flesh, which, sometimes

Page 71

oe December 1 G Inverted triangles and clever we draping are the subterfuges which produce an illusion of slimness in a costume designed for “Judith” excessive and sometimes inadequate, can destroy or embellish this all-important silhouette which sO preoccupies us. It is at this point that art steps in and assumes command; and, if we follow its dictates and emphasize the good points and conceal the bad, we arrive, like the magicians of our childhood, at really marvellous results. But first, Mesdames, you must understand that I have never attempted to correct the incorrigible. I have only striven successfully to hide imperfection, and I have found this to be a great negative science and a precious one which has rendered many women happy. Therefore, we shall begin with the art of concealing im- perfection. What, then, is the colour of nothingness? How can one banish an undesirable feature? Our answer is quite ready—use black. If one part of the body is in disaccord with the rest, Editor’s Note—Léon Bakst, the celebrated Russian artist whose exotic splashes of colour and shim- mering patterns in design have made their influence felt on the stage, in decoration, and in fash- ton, has recently arrived from Paris. Monsieur Bakst is now making a tour of the United States and is giving a series of lectures on the art of costume (Below) The motifs on the Greek costume designed by Bakst for a nymph in “L’Aprés-Midi d’un Faune” are particularly becoming to the thin woman £%- Another costume for “Judith” ey shows a different type of treat- ment which gives the same effect of slenderness to a heavy figure try to suppress it visually in order to shift atten- tion from this vexatious member and to allow it to pass unobserved. Human nature is so constructed that whatever is hidden from its view is immedietely suspected to be of sur- passing beauty. I do not jest. The age-old popularity of masquerade balls is built on this incorrigible optimism which compels man _ to believe that a masked woman, though she may not have a perfect figure, is at least hiding a face of exquisite beauty. It is to this same psychological fact that we must attribute the adventures of these myopic people who pass from one ecstasy to another—often, alas, quite un- justified'—, but who are happy, thanks to those marvellous powers of self-deception, visual and mental, with which nature endows them. So, we, finding ourselves in the presence of certain defects, must plunge our spirits into the figurative (Continued on page 154) “Les Deux Espagnoles” shows the slenderizing effect of the Spanish cos- tume on one of two identical figures The first sketch illustrates the happier effect of vertical tri- angles as compared to horizon- tal stripes Here, Bakst illustrates the disastrous effect of horizontal stripes where ver- tical ones should have been used

Page 72

UP-TO-DATE DEVICES FOR VOGUE A harmless little instrument strung with wires captures the latest turn in world events and serves it up for the guests at tea-time DIVERSION Miracles of Modern Invention Bring the Greatest Music, the Most Spectacular Happenings, and the Last-Minute News of the E are delighted to state that the present We gen is spoiled beyond redemption by the amusements afforded it to-day. Just imagine the families of the early New Englander or the Southern planter, who had none of our wonderful inventions, striving to amuse them- selves by conversations, anecdotes, and gossip, in comparison with the evenings spent in any average American home to-day, where the conversation is replaced by the merry “jazz” of the phonograph, the anecdotes by the broadcasting from the radio stations, and the gossip by any- thing else you like. Gone is the brilliant repartee of the eighteenth century, when great ladies, courtiers, and statesmen made “snappy” remarks to each other which have been preserved for quotation down to the present day. AMUSEMENT A LA CARTE But all such scintillation has been re- placed by things of greater wonder and, we imagine, greater scope. Also, they are accomplished with far less effort and are received with less discomfort than that suffered by victims of the old- fashioned parlour entertainer. It is only in our day that the great musicians are literally always “on tap,” because of the little talking-machine in the corner which records not only the greatest per- formances of the living artists, but some World to By JOHN McMULLIN If one has a portable talking-machine, one need never be separated from the “daily dozen” or the favourite “jazz ” records while travelling the Fireside of those who will never be heard again. We can always have music. Therefore, we can always be gay or sad as we like. To be able to indulge in a mood at will is the luxury of the spoiled and, one is happy to say, the heritage of our generation for rich and poor alike. In every house to which one goes, there is one or another kind of mechanical enter- tainment which is the pet of that family. As an inducement to drop in to tea, young men are offered the radio so that they will not miss the final score of the ball game, the result of the four-thirty race, or any other world complication and last-minute thriller that one should know about. The young ladies who come to tea have the inducement of the young men—and radio. Of course, all well-run houses have a phonograph, not only above stairs, but below, as well. and the family disagreement or the restless guest may be immediately charmed into qui- escence by that potent narcotic—“jazz.” TRAVELLING MECHANICAL PETS Indeed, one need never be separated from one’s pet records, whether they represent the rigour of the “daily dozen” or the equally strenuous desire for dancing. The phonograph in the lit- tle travelling-case which looks like a neat, smart piece of luggage may be set up anywhere, and it has the power of

Page 73

December 1 annihilating the tedium of the compartment on a Pullman car or of turning one’s thoughts to more amusing things on the ocean liner. And it ac- complishes that miracle of miracles—keeping the guests in good humour, despite the cramped cuarters provided on one of those jolly yacht- ing-parties. I know of several men whose valets turn on the phonograph with the bath water, thereby avoiding untold complications. In every party, there is always one of those energetic and thoughtful per- sons who work for the rest of us. They remember to take along the camera and plenty of films, with the result that, a week later, an entire set of pictures is printed for each guest, and, without any trou- Lle at all, one has a charming memento of a very pleasant time. Such people always know about the latest inven- tons. They have discovered that there are several motion- picture cameras for the ama- teur, and, a week after some exciting event, when the same party has been assembled for dinner, everybody will be thrilled to find a projecting machine installed in a dark- ened drawing-room, bringing back, to the merriment of all. a vision of the wonderful and fantastic capers of one’s friends. No one should die without having had the experience of seeing oneself in the flesh on the “movie” screen. Next to hearing one’s own voice thrown by a recording disk, it is the oddest sensation to look calm- ly on at one’s other self walk- ing, smiling, dancing, talking. and, sometimes, doing the most ridiculous things. It is not al- ways flattering to one’s vanity, A little camera for snapshots or fifteen feet of film will catch thrilling moments in the nick of time but is very amusing to one’s friends. To see yourself as others see you is a possibility which has already been achieved. It is possible, also, to hear oneself as others hear us, for, with a very simple attachment to the ordinary phono- graph, very good records may be made by the amateur. It is great fun experimenting with such records, for they may be made over and over again until perfected. Comic conversations and songs are always a great success, for they do not require the finished technique necessary to operatic arias. The head-tones and middle register of the friends who aspire to vocal acrobatics are sometimes more comic than All of these mechanical de- vices are by no means dedi- cated to the purpose of mak- ally ing us laugh. There are piano = rolls which so faithfully re- produce the playing of great artists that even the great Paderewski may now be heard in the small or great drawing- room with perfect ease and pleasure. The rolls for the me- chanical organ are even more wonderful than the perform- ances of the great organists, because no human hands could play so many chords or varia- tions. It is a thrilling thing to sit in the drawing-room of a house in Long Island and hear Mary Garden singing ‘Car- men” in the auditorium in Chicago. I had this experience as much as two years ago on one cold winter night when the air was free of static and broadcasting conditions were ideal. For the moment, time and space were annihilated. and the great Garden seemed to be singing for us alone. the intentionally funny efforts. Motion-picture cameras mounted on tripods reproduce the antics of one’s friends as perfectly as the comedy film of the professional studio In the summer, however, the conditions do not seem so favourable. For, during my last visit to a country house in August, where the host was a radio “fan,” the entire hour between tea and dinner was spent in a large room stripped of furniture, except for chairs and sofas, in order that the acoustics might be ideal, while wild sounds floated through the air. The combined efforts of the host, assisted by a friend, the chauffeur, and the butler could not make the controls work. Rather snippy remarks in return for the advice given by other patient guests and myself were the only amusement we had that afternoon. Such concentration is entertainment in itself, and, even more than that, it is a real thrill to the person of a mechanical turn of mind. A radio set 1s to some full-grown men what the mechanism of a dollar watch is to a child. The event that was caught in the nick of time, in the sketch above, is shown after dinner in the drawing-room for the amusement of the guests. The amateur’s motion-picture camera and the home projection machine have relieved the old entertainment of illustrated travelogues in an “edition de luxe”

Page 74

VOGUE somes . a SRA RR RRS BE oy ; a * : ? Campbell Studio MISS RHODA CAMERON Miss Cameron, the beautiful She made her début into New daughter of Mrs. R. de Goicouria York society last winter and since Cameron, is one of the most popu- then has taken an important part lar girls of the younger set in débutante activities

Page 75

December 1 THE MADNESS 65 OF AC QUStTIean In the Pleasant Occupation of Buying for Ourselves and Others, How Few of Us Care Whether a Much Desired Object Is Really Appropriate to Us and Our Surroundings or to Them and Theirs is the spending of money. Some people are said to prefer making it, but the greater part of humanity just wants it for the purpose of buying things. And, when we think of the things which can be bought, from titles to tadpoles, how can we blame them! Before actual cash has been paid over—thus nailing the choice to a particular ob- ject—, a person’s field of selection is as boundless as the uni- verse. In imagination, any one of a million articles may be possessed by the mere tossing down of a coin. Shall we button up the pockets we have (or haven’t, according to our sex) and go away still owning the world? Or shall we toss down the coin and enrich ourselves of the single asset before us? O= of the pleasantest occupations known to mortals ELL, usually, we toss, and. we possess. Suppose we have always wanted an ormolu clock. We behold one in a shop. We know it will not look well with anything be- longing to us, but, nevertheless, have it we must and do, though we are uncommonly quick to criticize our neighbours for their incongruous purchases. We think the Brown’s tall, bulbous floor-lamp, for instance, with its deep-fringed um- brella shade, quite ridiculous as it stands protectingly dwarfing the piano attachment—on which nobody plays—in the arched music-alcove of their tiny apartment. But, though much uglier, indeed almost the last word in pretentious bad taste, it is at least as much in accord with their surroundings as our treasure is with ours. Their hideous Eiffel Tower of a light fairly lifts the roof from the Home. Our golden paragon has all but demolished the supports of the Domestic Hearth. E should have to remodel a good deal if we really wished to live up to the clock (which, to be seen at its best, should grace the vast perfection of a really fine eigh- teenth-century stage-setting), but we remember the MacFar- land’s fountain and refrain. The MacFarland’s fountain came from Spain, where they fell in love with it at first sight and astounded its possessors by the amount they were willing to pay. It dominates their entrance-hall to such an extent that unwary guests come within an ace of falling into it, and a pompous butler once did. The difficulties of skirting its half- circle, as one made one’s way from the front door to the stairs, could hardly be exaggerated. INALLY, they determined to widen the hall, which in- volved altering the house, which led to a distinct atmos- pheric change in the household. The MacFarlands took to cold stone walls, noble in height; to hangings of exquisite threadbare velvet brocade; to leather furniture of an unyield- ing Gothicish type, and, while the family did not precisely change all their habits, they certainly succeeded in conveying a starved-aristocratic effect to their candlelit entertainments which was simply princely. But it awed rather than inspired onlookers and discouraged followers. tc ohaeages though bad enough, was the attitude of Arabella Dent towards her mahogany tester bed. She had always longed for one. She found one, carved to the queen’s taste, in the dusty garret of a roadside curiosity-shop. It had be- longed in a room with a high ceiling and floor space of some twenty-five square feet. But that did not bother Arabella. Her bedroom was a cosy cubby-hole of about six-foot-six by seven. To sleep in that bed, she had first to fit it into that space, and she did. Like a mastiff in a bull-terrier’s kennel, the grand, four-posted, canopied couch looked reproachfully from its insufficient shelter into the sitting-room opening be- fore it. Arabella’s flat, had it been thrown into a single my lady’s chamber, could hardly have been the adequate abode of such a bed. Yet, she hutched.it and was content. F course, she should not have been content. She should not have hutched it. She should not have bought it. But she magnificently chose to gratify a whim for this stu- pendous article of furniture and, having done so, disdained to alter her life in accord. So have the Wade Nicksons re- fused to succumb to the influence of their dining-room chairs. They could not resist buying them. They have a passion for ornate backs. Lions and unicorns, couchant, rampant, some with their tongues out, some with their tails twisted, all in- tricately entwined with armorial bearings, leave a distinct im- pression upon every guest who breaks bread at the Nickson’s board. But the bread is still broken in the pleasant canary coloured apartment with a latticed cottage window, chintz cur- tains, and a golden-oak mantelpiece which even a builder’s taste might have rejected. O, we shall cling to our clock and let all the rest of the house swear at it if it pleases. But we know we ought not to have wanted it, situated as we are, and we will willingly vow a great vow—a mouth-filling oath, like the one Hotspur demanded of Kate—to pause a little longer the next time be- fore the shop-window and say over and over to ourselves: “Most incongruous, most incongruous, most incongruous, to our surroundings.” And, perhaps, after that, we shall not go in. And, again, perhaps we shall, human nature being so delightfully yielding just when one thinks it is going to be more than abnormally prim. T is a terrible truth, none the less, that we often give our- selves and others most inappropriate objects. They prob- ably represent romance—symbolic of might-have-beens that never would have been. But they may not represent common sense and beauty combined, which is good taste. Let no one be discouraged, however, though the time for presents is ap- proaching, for all the pretty and all the suitable things are not bought up yet by a long way. A heartful of understanding may succeed where a pocketful of money will not, and what is so happy a find as the gift that’s befitting our Fair?

Page 76

FIVE MEMBERS OF THE SMART WORLD OF WOMEN, INCLUDING THE NEW GOLF CHAMPION (Right) Mrs. Le Grand B. Cannon, looking very smart, as usual, was snapped with her dog, “Blacky,” at the Tuxedo Park Dog Show (Left) Mrs. George B. Saint George and her daughter, Priscilla, were seen with their wire-haired fox-terrier at the Tuxedo Dog Show ne Two photographs © by Keystone View lili ltyyyyy \ N X i NY ‘ \ | \ ‘International Newsree *' Miss Edith Cummings, of Chicago, by defeating Miss Alexa Stirling in the Women’s Westchester Bilt- more Tournament became the national champion (Left) Mrs. Charles Reed, who was formerly Miss Madeleine M. Carey, of Tuxedo Park, holds her collie, “Forbes Clan Anstruther” (Right) Mrs. Stanley G. Mortimer is pictured with her English bulldog, “Chal- lenger-Boy.” Mr. Mortimer is the amateur racket champion of the United eS ee Sot ak States Le G Underwood & Underwood Paul Thompson

Page 77

December 1 (Right) Mr. Clarence H. Mackay, with his daughter, Miss Ellin Mackay, and his son, John W. Mackay, were snapped while strolling about the beautiful grounds of Mr. Mac- kay’s place, “Harbor Hill,” at Roslyn, Long Island THE BRILLIANT DAYS OF A LATE AUTUMN KEEP SOCIETY OUT-OF-DOORS (Below, reading from left to right) Miss Florence Loew, Miss Marie L. Bird, Mrs. Wiiliam Goadby Loew, and Mrs. Henry C. Phipps were interested spectators at the Horse Show Mdddlddscddddddddddddec SEASON Two photographs © by Keystone View Company ANS 4 Q«. yyy Wwe NE SSE AS SSE VME 4, Ble iy N N WGK“ SS Alexander A. Brown (Left) Mrs. Francis H. Mc- Adoo and Miss Nancy Yuille, both of whom are to be seen at most of the smart sport- ing events, were two of the most charming spectators of the Piping Rock Show Mrs. Oliver Iselin and her three chil- dren, Audrey, Beatrice, and Oliver, junior, are shown in the photograph intent on the happenings of the Pip- ing Rock Horse Show VOM MMMM WMG S WAV SS MMA AAA =o Alexander A. Brown Cddddldddidddddaaddd EL, Waddle hdd amadme ctttKL. Vdlddatdddcaccad EEE. VL ELE Mlle Clslaclddddsdddddddddddddddddddéuddd LEE EE RE SQW AW.

Page 78

A turban of white agnella wool em- broidered in gold thread in circular motifs matches the short coat faced with black velvet. The unifying touch of black in the hat is obtained by means of a black and white com- position ornament; posed by Joan Clement (Left) The ermine fur of the collar and cuffs gives to an afternoon frock of black satin formal and becoming qualities without sacrifice of sim- plicity of line. With the frock is worn a smart black satin cloche trimmed with ermine tails; posed by Elaine Fields MODELS ON THESE TWO PAGES FROM FRANCES Steichen TWO CONFIRMATIONS OF THE BLACK AND WHITE MODE

Page 79

December 1 69 (Right) Absinthe-yellow satin girdled with jade-green satin makes an even- ing gown with its slender lines accen- tuated by flowing panel sleeves of gold silk lace. The clinging satin panels and the separate blouse are embroidered with crystal beads; posed by Joan Clement Se SS SHOES FROM SHOECRAFT (Below) In an evening frock of pink brocaded moire silk, the material is pulled closely about the body to form the fashionable tight, flat back and drawn upwards at the side front, where a huge bow is caught with a rhinestone ornament; posed by Elaine Fields aun Steichen FRANCES ORIGINATES TWO LOVELY EVENING GOWNS

Page 80

70 NEW NECK-LINES FOR \ Crisp starched material makes this collar which disguises the bateau neck-line Ca yy, an 2 INN i i fh A 1, AY hi a: 3 y h Alli | is J Z°) xy This very smart neck-line is im- provised from a flat linen band to which is attached narrow, finely pleated frilling The neck-line of a used velvet frock may masquerade beneath a Worth collar of cream batiste and lace, threaded with a_ velvet ribbon The front of a worn frock may be cut in a deep oval shape and filled in with a vest of linen or piqué A frock which starts life with a bateau neck-line may end (left) with a piqué chemisette and cuffs or (right) a boyish gilet of starched white linen VOGUE NEXT TO NOTHING This cravat collar is of a soft fabric becomingly looped about the shoulders A demure little collar with cuffs to match is of several layers of organdie. A cravat is knotted at the front and wrists One’s old neck-line vanishes with the aid (left) of a pleated “tucker” or (right) of a cream linen chemisette with pleated cravat and Deuillet cuffs

Page 81

UE December 1 71 In Paris, one sees children wearing (left to right) beige Rodier perllaine with graduated brown stripes and fur patches; horizon-blue cheviot trimmed with grey loops and squirrel fur; rough cheviot in shades of blue with designs applied, Breton fashion, by Rowgli; a combination of plain brown with yellow and brown checked perllaine; and a coat of leaf- FRENCH green velours with cut-out beige and green designs FOUR MODELS FROM MIGNAPOUF ¢ AE. MARTY MODES FOR FRENCH CHILDREN Simple Fabrics Are Made Interesting By Embroideries and Cut-Work Designs Y EVER has youth been served more effi- N ciently than it is now—in the question of fashion, at least. Until very recently, it was not the custom of the grandes maisons to show models for children in their collections, although Lanvin has nearly always introduced miniature versions of her mature models at her openings. Now, however, Mignapouf, one of the special makers of chil- dren’s wear, has instituted a solemn défilé des mannequins, like that shown above, in which the oldest has reached the ripe age of twelve years. At this house, simple materials are invariably chosen, and colourful embroideries and amusing adaptations of the material, in cut-work or ap- pliqué, are used to give the little costumes their special value. The modes are not often inspired by grown-up fashions or by historical epochs, but are especially designed to meet the needs of the child of to-day. Hand in hand with fashion stand a white taffeta frock trimmed with navy moire ribbon and embroidered roses and a white cotton duvetine Chinese suit bor- dered with apple-green vel- vet and black soutache At Rowsgli’s, another specialty house for chil- dren, we find a particularly happy use of colour brought to bear on its youthful three-piece suits. In one particularly effective costume, the frock is of red and grey broadcloth, and the coat ac- companying it is made reversible so that it may be worn with either the grey or the red pre- dominating. Sometimes, the three-piece idea in- MODELS FROM ROWGLI cludes a blouse, attached to the skirt or but- toned on all round when it is of washable material. A novel and practical material for these washable blouses is linen damask, like table napkins, which, indeed, are often used for them. This material is particularly adapted to the hard wear that children give their clothes, for it improves in appearance every time it is washed. For youthful party frocks, Madame Rowgli creates adap- tations of the robe de style. She says that children’s bodies are physically so _ insignifi- cant that they must be given the importance of full skirts. For little boys, she likes the Chinese blouse fastened to one side and hang- ing loose over the shortest of culottes. In accordance with the French idea, for older girls, she makes frocks which are really adaptations of their mothers’ models, an excellent example of which is to be seen in the charmingly simple black velvet frock at the left. (Left) This older child wears a frock plain in back, with grown-up cir- cular tiers in front, rather full sleeves, and cream lace cuffs tied with velvet ribbon. The frock is of black chiffon velvet

Page 82

Three circular ruffles make the front of this rose crépe de Chine evening frock in a delightful adaptation of the mode. Taffeta rosebuds trim the girdle A very picturesque frock for a girl of sixteen is of white taffeta with a skirt of billowing ruffles and bands of Fra- gonard-blue velvet ribbon 4 lovely evening frock of daffodil-yellow chiffon has alternating wreaths of pastel coloured flowers and little pointed picot- edged ruffles encircling its skirt MODELS ON THESE TWO PAGES FROM MRS. SCHERMERHORN PARTY FROCKS for the GIRL from TWELVE to SIXTEEN IXTEEN and thereabouts has long been celebrated by bal- ladists and others as an irre- sistible age—a time of awakening to the delightful possibilities of gaiety and feminine fripperies. It is essentially a period of fresh, un- jaded interest, before the quest which comes later—for the new, bizarre, or unusual —has begun. When one has gone about clad in gingham and muslin, a frock that is a cloud of rose coloured chiffon or a bouffant mass of ruffles is a truly exciting experience. And despite an inevitable period of youthful yearning for grown-up skirts, earrings, and décolletage, the more appropriate fabrics, if charmingly employed, are quite as appealing to the young girl as the tinsels, brocades, and embroideries of the older set. Gossamer materials such as chiffon and geor- gette swirl merrily on the dance floor, success- fully veiling immature angles, and crisp taffetas Georgette, Chiffon, Crépe, and Taffeta in Soft Colours Make the Smartest and Becoming Models for Girls of These are generous to lines as yet. undeveloped. Long- leggedness, after all the best prognostication of future willowy grace, demands skirts of con- servative length, depending, as in later years, entirely upon the wearer’s type of beauty. If she is rather tall and slender with clear-cut features and a serene expression, she may choose robes de style with ruffles all the way to the floor. If she is tiny and vivacious, her skirts may be jauntily short. High neck-lines, often with a bertha, are becoming to thin young shoulders and serve also to mark a shade of difference between the “sub-deb” and the débutante. ‘Tiny ruffled sleeves are infinitely better than none at all. Jewels, of course, should not be worn, with the exception of a string of very small pearls or gold beads. It is a safe rule that glit- ter should be always avoided. That sad dilemma—whether or : not to put up one’s hair for special occasions—has been almost entirely solved by the shingle and the new tendency to wear the hair in braids around the head or coiled over the ears. A knot at the back is almost sure to be too old and to look out of the picture. Ribbon bands, black velvet for blondes an silver for brunettes. are a charming finish for the coiffure, as are flowered bandeaux. A single flower pinned into the hair at one side is often a most happy and piquant arrangement. Most Ages

Page 83

UE December 1 Pale blue crépe de Chine and a series of tiny tucks at the waist-line combine to make a frock of exquisite simplicity A bertha of cream col- oured chiffon prolongs itself quaintly into a girdle in this black vel- vet Marie Louise frock It can not bé too much stressed that, at this age, make-up, beyond a touch of powder on the nose, is the height of bad taste; and this fact to a certain degree influences the choice of colour for evening frocks. Flower shades, such as rose, forget-me-not blue, or violet, are becoming to natural complexions. White is, of course, love- liest, most picturesque and most flattering of all, though this is seldom discovered at sixteen— experience and wisdom are usually required to appreciate its perfection. For dancing class, the choice is usually a simple frock of black velvet with a real lace collar or touch, of fur trimming, with not too high-heeled slippers. Altogether, the in-between age has as wide a choice of charming clothes as any one might wish. It is simply a question of sense of fitness and the exquisite perception which never permits the young person to be burdened with overdress- ing or, on the other hand, unduly stiff severity. (Left) Ruffled side panels of its own enchanting fab- ric—rose georgette —are used in this becoming dress (Right) A dainty frock of white chiffon insists up- on ruffes which may be of chiffon or Valenciennes lace

Page 84

The up-town offices of ]. P. Benkard and Company, in the tower of the Heck scher Building, are decor- ated in early American style, by Rutledge Smith HE frosted glass door marked “Private” is no longer the portal to the inner office of the great man of finance. The hard- hearted and impassive face of the chief clerk and the disapproving frown of the stenographer hovering about the door of the private office have faded out of the pic- ture to be replaced by the polite and courteous office staff of to-day, whose man- ners are certainly better. if no more vulnerable, than those guardians of high finance of yesterday. With this change of manner has come a change of scene, and that frost- ed - glass - panelled door marked “Private” has given place to the style of doorway to be found in any well-appointed private house. The entrance to the modern office has that atmosphere of smart simplicity which characterizes the outer mani- festations of the material things of Wynn Richards WHERE THE OTHER HALF LIVES DURING THE DAY OI (Left) When the weather permits, one may sit in easy chairs on the terrace of the Benkard offices, overlooking Central Park, and watch the _ ticker MOMMA generation. The office is like the library in the financier’s house instead of the for- bidding and relentless habi- tation of the business man of the nineties, who seemed to make it a rule to leave all taste behind when he de- parted from the family man- sion in the morning—ap- parently paraphrasing the caution to the traveller who entered Dante’s Inferno, to leave all hope behind. But, now, beauty stays no longer at home or in a museum; the man of business may enjoy it during all the twenty-four hours of the day. The modern financier is not too busy to appreciate good taste, and,in many cases—as is shown by the collection of photographs presented—, he has, in his down-town abode, rivalled the feminine members of his family in achieving that much sought atmos- phere of distinction. Such offices have set a new standard. this private

Page 85

December 1 i & F. t Mr. Vincent Astor’s office ts a room of distinguished pro- portions with fine panelling, book-shelves, and a beautiful overmantel; Peabody, Wil- son, and Brown, architects MMA S QW The entrance-hall of Mr. Joshua Cosden’s offices in the Heckscher Building has a black and white marble floor and apple-green walls; Walker and Gillette, architects WM s My Wynn Richards NON N MMW WM MOU POW Udédeeceeeee f ~\ MMMM ddd (Left) Mr. Whitney Warren, who has both the touch of the artist and the acumen of the man of affairs, owns a beautiful office full of the most interesting of documents WW AAA wo» nidrdoRRK{\£|IKKIEkEEK"_ The desk by the window in Mr. Whitney Warren’s office is proof that the decorative element need not be a thing apart from the routine of successful business

Page 86

VOGUE ® £ aN ON 1HE STAG E By KENNETH MACGOWAN <6 HERE are’ no unactable plays,” said Hilar, who staged “The World We Live In” at the Czech National Theatre, to Vildrac, author of “The S. S. Tenacity.” “There are no unactable plays. There are only good plays and bad plays.” It is easy to say this in a country which so organizes its theatre as to cultivate an audience as interested, sensitive, and intelligent as the concert goers of Carnegie Hall. And, indeed, Hilar’s words are not entirely absurd even in the show shop of Broadway. Our audience is eager and unconventional, and our producers are skil- ful enough not to put too many obstacles in the way of understanding. The past fortnight has seen a few plays produced which may be bad plays, or which may be good plays twisted and distorted by playwright or producer; but all these odd, maimed pieces are still plays, and they can be acted and inspected without a great deal of suffering. I refer to a drama by Molnar called “Launzi,” in which the heroine goes gently mad, walks about with property wings, imag- ining herself an angel, and dies trying to fly out of a fourth-story window; to a cheap and tricky melodrama, called “Cymbeline,” which Shak- (Continued on page 132) (Left) Katharine Cornell’s sym- pathetic interpretation of Henri- ette, in “Casanova,” distinguishes an otherwise heavy production (Below) In the Fokine Ballet, pro- logue to “Casanova,” Columbine and these four delightful Harlequins dance & <S é SS << S AWS

Francis Bruguiére

Page 87

ame December 1 (Right) The interesting personality of Olga Petrova will be evident all through “The Hurricane,” for she is the author and plays the leading rile The meteoric rise of Helen Gahagan to a prominent place among our brilliant younger actresses seems fully justified by her recent performance 1n “Chains,” by Jules Eck- ert Goodman £ af, 4 aA Thy pe \ MANMOHAN ww Edwin F. Townsend {~ eeeeteeeedeeeedeaaaddddcddaeedcccccccdeaae “Ne Two photographs by Maurice Goldberg 77 S S gs Ss © E. O. Hoppé, London On Christmas Eve, Morris Gest will intro- duce to the United States Lady Diana Manners and a new pageant play, “The Miracle,” by Karl Voll- moeller and Engelbert Humperdinck Emily Stevens, ably supported by William Faversham, does full justice to the dramatic possibilities of “A Les- son in Love,” a new play by May. Edginton and Rudolph Besier

Page 88

VOGUE — ~— GOOD-LOOKING AND DIS- TINGUISHED MEN OF THE STAGE OF TO-DAY (Below) Glenn Hunter, after his tremendous New York success in “Merton of the Movies,” 1s now delighting Chicago "Wt yyyyyyyyyguyp Wty Vp “Wyyys “My Steichen Lionel Atwill appears this season in “The £ John Barrymore, the best Hamlet of his Heart of Cellini,” a play of the sixteenth S2 generation—and perhaps of any other—, century, by Anthony Wharton, celebrat- 7: will, in response to tremendous public ing or lamenting, as the case may be, the approval, repeat his performance of the role this winter in New York loves of the Italian sculptor 8] ]]]]]] GGG KKK wo. ce ss \S S N N WM ib) Recids Russell Ball. Li dddddddddded EEE ddd ELLE Ld \ \ XW Md LA tp Gf lille Lee Steichen Kenneth MacKenna, one of the most interesting of the younger actors, is appearing in “Windows,” by John Gals- worthy, the initial produc- tion of the Theatre Guild this season Tom Powers is giving one of the best performances of the season in “Tarnish,” by Gil- bert Emery, wherein he ac- complishes the delicate task of impersonating a somewhat unheroic hero Pedro de Cordoba, the dash- ing buccaneer of “The Jolly Roger,” has not abandoned romantic roles with the strik- ing of the pirate flag at the National, but will star in two films: “Fires of Fate,’ by Conan Doyle and “I Will Repay,” by Baroness Orcezy ‘ssdal ddsdddiddddececdeeedddccccccacccccccceuwcc3cxc0’l dddddddddddddddddlddd Three photographs by Nickolas Muray

Page 89

December 1 (Right) In Greenwich Village Follies, Pollard and ensemble their appearance in “Raisin Roof,” the stirring Murray Anderson’s latest production. Norman Levinson designed the cos-

—LOS

Two photographs by Nickolas Muray

the Daphne the justify the of John tumes (Below) Florence O’Denishawn dances in the Music Box Revue with a grace like the flexible flame of a fluttering candle. Her Oriental dances rival those of her famous teacher, Ruth St. Denis

"> _ 11 TW

James Abbé, Paris

“Les Ecoliéres,” a group from “Le Mar- chand d’Oiseaux,” is one of the. most de- lightful features of the Swedish Ballet which recently made its début at the Ambassador Theatre and will later go on tour

HIGH LIGHTS OF THE DANC- ING SHOWS OF NEW YORK QQ Ww, nne__:_¢:n Www s—""l lI 9 James Abbé, Paris

Page 90

(Above) A close rival to the familiar sweater is this silk-and-wool hand-knit- ted jacket in red and black, tan and brown, or blue and grey, worn over a jersey dress (opposite page); $50.50 (Centre) The mannish coat-sweater has proved so invaluable for golf and country wear that it has become a fixture in the sports wardrobe. This one comes in camel, brown, or navy wool; $13.25 THE SHOPS Note—V ogue presents these smart models from New York shops. Readers who are unable to find these or similar models in local shops may purchase through Vogue Shopping Service, 19 West 44th Street, by sending money order, certified cheque, or cheque on a New York bank. A slight fee to cover the expense of this service is included in the prices. Hats are not returnable; when ordering, please state head-size CLOTHES ron COUNTRY ACTIVITIES (Above, left) Smart simplicity distin- guishes a French jersey dress with stayed seams, for the youthful hand-drawn col- lar and cuffs and the smart Ascot belt are the only trimmings; all shades; $35.50 (Above, right) A silk-and-wool two-piece costume hand-knitted in tan or brown with borders of contrasting colour has become a necessity for the woman who spends much time in the country; $65.50 OFFER DELIGHTFUL

Page 91

December Il (Left) Another new bright note in the field of sport is a tan or brown slip-over sweater with tricolour borders in any colour combination; $15.50 (Below, centre) (Right) The silk scarf cele- brates a return to favour in navy blue or black, brilliantly striped; $18.50. The embror- dered red velours hat is $19 A youthful jersey dress is trimmed with smocking at the belt and shoulders and has linen collar and cuffs; in all desired colours; $30.50 (Below) A dress of fine French jersey trimmed with tucks and white piqué collar and cuffs is especially designed with a thought for the older woman; in grey, brown, or black; in any colour to order; $32.50 (Below) A storm-coat of black and grey wool plaid has the smart new detachable cape; $60. The felt hat has suéde trimming; black with grey, blue with red, brown with tan, or grey with blue; $19

Page 92

VOGUE d 8 ety matisita (oh OO = =35) LET VOGUE DO YOUR CHRISTMAS SHOPPING On the following pages, Vogue presents a wide assortment of gifts at varying prices, chosen especially for your convenience. Any article illustrated which can not be secured in local shops may be purchased through Vogue Shopping Service. Please observe the rules given below. (378) Wrist watch; white filled gold with fifteen jewelled Swiss movement; sterling sil- ver mesh strap; $15.50 (379) Black pir seal purse; 5Va by 73% m.; black and white silk lining; mirror id and powder cases; $17.75 (377) Tapestry bag; brown and tan predominating; metal knob; taffeta lining; purse pocket; $19 original selection as possible. Samples can not be sent, but information relative to merchandise in shops will be furnished if request is accompanied by a stamped, self-ad- OGUE will buy for you any article mentioned in its Christmas gift section. When ordering, give the order number of the article, the date of the issue, the page number, and, when necessary, the colour and size desired. Give, also, a second choice in case the first is out of stock, or state whether it is left to the discretion of the Shopping Service to purchase an article as nearly like the dressed envelope. A service fee of 25 cents for articles up to $10 and of 50 cents for those $10 and over is included in the prices published, to defray postage and incidentals. The following rules are suggested to simplify your orders. RULES REMITTANCES A Sa purchasing agent, Vogue Shopping Service can not send articles C.O.D., carry charge ac- counts, or charge purchases to individual accounts at shops. Drafts, money orders, certified cheques, or cheques on a New York bank to cover the prices of the articles ordered should be made payable to Vogue Shopping Service. If the exact price is not known, be sure to send an approximate sum, as any balance will be refunded. DELIVERIES W HENEVER possible and unless otherwise re- quested, orders will be sent by insured parcel- post. Heavier packages are sent express collect. Some shops charge extra for crating goods such as glass and furniture, and, in that case, the customer will be notified of the charge after the order is filled. OrDER EARLY T O ensure prompt delivery, gifts should not be ordered later than two weeks before Christmas. WRITE PLAINLY T° prevent mistakes, it is advisable to print care- fully the name and address. When ordering articles to be sent to another person, kindly give both your own address and that of the consignee. WHEN ORDERING ARTICLES Not ILLUSTRATED P LEASE give the fullest possible description, but rely to a reasonable extent upon the shopper’s discretion. ARTICLES ARE Not RETURNABLE F jeanne are not returnable during the Christ- mas season. In case of damaged goods or in- correctly filled orders, the package may be returned, transportation prepaid, to Vogue Shopping Service for prompt adjustment—not to the shop from which the article came. No responsibility will be taken for delays in adjusting accounts unless this rule ts strictly followed. TELEGRAMS T is sometimes necessary to communicate by tele- graph. When it is obviously to the sole interest of the purchaser, the telegrams are sent collect. Vosve SHOPPING SERVICE 9 West 44th Street New York (ity

Page 93

les) December 1 at ei" ; "ean 14104 { att | iv (381) A Chinese bird-cage of grey- green bamboo with seed cups of por- celain harmonizes with any interior; 12 by 24 inches; $12.50 gover omnes: (Centre, above) (383) A pung chow set in a mahogany box is a charming decoration for the li- brary table. This one has ivory- finish tiles stamped with coloured Chinese characters; $75.50 reseed (382) An English brass lanthorn wired for electricity may be hung in the hallway or out- side one’s front door; 14 inches high; $20.50 (Right) (384 )A carved wooden Chinese coat-hanger in red lac- quer and antique gold with green bronze hooks is an interesting device to hang in a_ narrow hall; 8 by 16% inches; $22.50 83 (Below) (385) A witch’s broom- stick with heavy corn sweep may be put to the harmless, necessary task of brushing up the hearth of a country house; $5.25. (386) The willow wood basket with wooden bottom is a convenience for replenishing the open fire; $10.50 (388) A post-box of de- lightful design is in En- glish brass with spring slot-cover and a sepa- rate space for papers; $15. (387) A wrought-iron mail-box for an early American or English period house measures 4 by 8 by 14 inches; $7 50 | Note Let Vogue do | your Christmas shopping. For | instructions, see | page 82 GIFTS WHICH WILL s iH eT | LTT iM SUPPLY MANY WANTS | = | acess | OF THE HOME BUILDER

Page 94

84 GIFTS FOR DINING-ROOM AND _ SERVICE - TABLE (393) The smoker will ap- preciate this set for the living-room; silvertray with frame for match-box and five silver ash-trays; price, 63.

(402) This pepper-mill is of silver plate in an old Dutch design; 4 in. high; this is for the epicure who de- mands freshly ground pep- per at his own table; price, 10.50

<. 7 | Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. For instructions, see page 82

(395) Jelly spoon in Chateau-Thierry pattern; dull silver; $5.45. (396) Lettuce fork and spoon; $1170. (397) Salad fork and spoon, Fairfax design; bright silver; $13.50. (398) Cold meat fork; Cortland design, bright silver; $5.95. (399) Relish spoon to match; $5.20. (400) Salad fork and spoon; $16.10. (401) Cold meat set; $14 VOGUE (Left) (391) Dull finish silver bowl, 9-inch diameter, is de- lightful for salad, flowers, or fruit; $42.50. (392) Olive- wood salad knife and fork, dull silver handles; $8.75 set

a ag coven

(394) Smoker’s silver tray; cedar-lined and _ silver- trimmed compartments for cigars, cigarettes, s pirit- lighter, and _ ash-trays; $78. (403) Egg-poacher for breakfast table; silver plate with wooden handle; rim holds egg in shape while cooking; 1s lifted by handle to release egg when done; $775 (Left) (404) The screen is as decorative and neces- sary to the house as a flower bowl. Hand-painted screen; heavy cotton fabric with flowers and foliage in bright colours; bound in leather; finished in antique effect; height, 5 feet, 2 inches; panels, 17 inches wide; $65.50

Page 95

'E December I 85 GIFTS OF DISTINCTION (Right) (407) Mirror in | WHICH COMPLETE THE eighteenth-century design of antique-finished mahogany or maple; 16 inches high; $15.50. (408) Heavy brass’ candle- sticks; Jacobean design, an- tique finish; 11% inches ‘high; $6 a pair. (409) Tea- caddy, plain silver with carved pine- apple top for handle; antique design; $40.50 SCHEME OF DECORATION ee » NI WW >I = mr \ \ \ \ X N \ N \ \ ; \ \ \N XS ‘ \ \ ‘ ‘ \ diy UY RON aur poy (411) Fluted silver bowl; dull finish, antique design; 4 in. high; $50.50. (412) Carved teakwood stand; 3% im. high; $5.25 (410) Centrepiece in heavy etched brass; this is an au- thentic reproduction of an antique Italian design; 16 inches high; $85.50 ee SS °° 5 Fb E=Eée WORN Www °°"ie*6r’y "0 €F™"E N \ AWC NARA —_— IOAN \ (415) White pottery set, made in Sesto, a small town near Florence, Italy. It consists o} two oval dishes 6 inches high, 6 wide, and 12 long, and a cir- cular dish 6 inches high and 12 inches in diameter; $50.50 a set (413) Louis XIP. silver bowl; engraved and carved, dull fin- ish; 5 in. high, 10-in. ‘diameter; with pierced gold-washed flow- er-rack; $78.50. (414) Candle- sticks; engraved and carved, dull finish; 4 in. high; $50.50 pair Vdd (Right) (416) Electric lamp of cream coloured French pot- tery with rose and green de- sign; cream linen shade hav- Note Let Vogue do your cee cccccccccccccqcuvzccqceeccOOllloatvccc3u. ing rose and green flower de- : ; sign; 18 in. high; $25. (417) Christmas shopping. Italian polychrome book-ends For instructions, see in antique burnished gold and page 82 CLE ddd EEE colours; $5.25. (418) Candy- box, cream- and pink-striped enamelled tin; metal doll han- dle; $10.50 x _2 Bradley and Merrill

Page 96

VOGUE 86 9 AN INTERESTING FOR THE DISCRIM- $ € ARRAY OF GIFTS INATING WOMAN (421) White gold watch (14 kt.); 16-jewel; worn on a cord as a pendant, on a strap as a wrist watch, or as the setting of a 14 kt. gold ring; ae he OF coke Oke S : FE Ys by ¥ inch; $65.50 (423) Necklace; large composi- oN tion beads in two tones of brown ay (422). Bera betiste col- = and yellow; 76 inches long; $9.25 tiered collar and five- tiered cuffs edged with Valenciennes lace; hand- Note made; smart for crépe or satin dresses; collar 3 Let Vogue do your in., cuffs 7% in. wide; Christmas shop- price, $14 ; : ping. For instruc- tions, see page 82 MH Jar and cuff set; three- *% # | (424) Short umbrella; coloured silk with striped border, apple-wood handle, and amber tips; 25% inches long; 1 yard spread; $10.50. (425) Light polished wood cane; sterling silver band; $875. (426) White boxwood cane; 14 kt. gold top and leather strap; $17 (427) Vanity-bag; striped black silk lined with white faille moire and finished with black silk cord and tassels; five pockets and large mirror; $10.50 (Right) (428) Bracelet; strands of tiny pearls fastened with marcasite clasp; % inch wide; $20.50. (429) Bracelet; emerald coloured stones set in sterling — silver; ¥% inch wide; $13 (Left) (430) Black pin seal pocketbook with 1% inch tan pigskin edges; tan moire silk lining; contains mirror and purse; 6% by 12 in.; $30.50 (Right) (433) Imported (Left) (431) Desk or boudoir 8-day clock; red leather bag with a agian ig Se = i gale 5 . ” ’ bie ining and extra pocket hands; 6-jewel move- (432) | Business woman's portfolio; inside; top forms hexa- ment; 234 in. square; black leather lined with kid; compart- also. oval’ or’ ccrages ‘tents for pads, correspondence, purse, £0" when opened. It models; gilt frame; $19 bill-folder, pencil, address-book, foot- inches; price, $35 rule, and mirror holding identification F , card; invaluable to the _ professional woman; $15.40

Page 97

December 1 (Right) (446) Two- tiered collar and cuff set of organdie; collar, 3% inches wide; cuffs, 6% A ~N inches; $675 SS") ea ( \ h ° \ 2 Soeo (445) Organdie col- lar and cuff set; hand - embroidered, with openwork lat- tice-edge design; 3 inches wide; $5.25 (448) This black moire bag with large csorenESCTtiins 9 ] (449) smoked-amber knob and silk cord * * equipped with a mirror and com- partments for change; $10 Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. For instructions, see page 82 (450) Imported — leather belt; perforated and metal is trimmed; 1% inches wide; ax green, red, brown, and white; $6.25 pa —_ SMART GIFTS THAT C.OST FROM $5 TO $10 (Left to right) (452) Organdie vestee; trimmed with fine tucks, lace inserts, and crocheted buttons; $10. (453) Organdie vestee; hand- drawn, with latticework around the collar; $9. (454) Organdie vestee; pin-tucked, with hand-embroidery around the pin-tucked insert in the collar; $10 (447) Crystal ear- rings; hang from gold-backed crystal tops by — linked chains interspersed with crystal beads; 3 inches long; $3 Cigarette-case; — silk-striped moire with a marcasite initial at the handle is lined with tan satin and fastening; 3 inches square; the inside case conveniently slides out for taking cigarettes; $7.75 (451) Brown pin seal belt with a design of steel orna- ments and a bone buckle; ¥% inch wide; tan, red, and blue; $3.75 TRIFLES TO COMPLETE THE WARDROBE

Page 98

88 MECHANICAL GIFTS WHICH SATISFY THE ACTIVE MIND AND INQUIRING SPIRIT OF THE MODERN BOY OF TEN VOGUE r = TRIM CRAFT READY FOR BUILDING | PROVE THAT A SHIP IN THE HAND IS WORTH TWO ON THE HIGH SEAS (457) A sailboat construction set consists of the hull with partially shaped side planks, square sticks ready for shaping into masts and boom, a supply of sail-cloth ready to be cut and hemmed, rigging and nautical details complete. Above is the ship afloat after it has been assembled and launched; $7.25 WW \ i 777 F 66" Fh : (458) A chemistry outfit which is entirely harmless is designed especially for the boy with an experimental turn of mind; book of com- plete instructions is sup- plied; $5.25 (459) A stimulating gift for a boy is this box containing the parts for building an automobile which, when com- pleted, will run; the parts are of heavy tin with rubber tires; $10.50 (Left, above) (460) For the boy with a Bradley and Merrill Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. For instructions, see page 82 growing interest in mechanics, a set of construction parts for a _ motor-boat with blue-print and ‘| full instructions 1s an ideal gift; special spring motor; the finished model with long slim lines 1s shown below; $10.50

Page 99

Me December 1 89 —— Sees ee = - tes , - oy (Left) (464) Phonograph; cream enam- elled cabinet decorated in bright colours contains compartments for records; plays any type of record; 30 inches high; $24.25 5 (463) Child’s tea-set; lustre finish in as- j sorted colourings; includes tea-pot, sugar- i bowl, cream-jug, 4 cups and saucers, and 4 plates 3 inches in diameter; $3.25 (467) Miniature grand piano with concealed music-box which is wound with a key; classical music is played with a brilliancy inspiring to the vic- tim of music-teachers; the lid may be closed; 4 in. high; $6.60 (465) Doll; curly hair and eyes that open and shut; muslin dress and bloomers and shoes and stockings may be removed; 16 in. high; $4.25. (466) Bright rubber rain cape and black cotton umbrella; $2.75 (Below) (468) Paper-doll set includes enough paper, paper lace, patterns, and bindings to make wardrobes for the 4 dolls; $2.40 WK " TF=we44,.: QQ S e * Note CHRISTMAS GIFTS Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. FOR THE CHILD For instructions, see page 82 WHO ADORES 2 31 | | KEEPING HOUSE Bradley ‘and Merrill

Page 100

VOGUE

MEN’S GIFTS THAT COv.

Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. For instructions, see a, itl :, : PRICE AND PURPOSE page 82 , i :

ER A WIDE RANGE IN

(471) A superlatively thin watch for formal evening wear is of platinum with gold nu- merals on a platinum face; $535.50. (472). Platinum and pearl chain; $110.50

“WtMdllld ae Ud WN (476) Carved jade links with their accom- panying buttons and studs are suitable both for formal evening dress and for wear with a dinner-jacket; $225.50 (473) A set of very beautiful links are of white topaz with diamond centres; $180.50. (474) Waistcoat buttons to match; $180.50. (475) Studs to match; $75.50 J Z Y y G “4 y 7 qZ WN NN Lh _Frun oe (Right, below) (477) A gold key chain ends in a round gold disk which may be ini- tialled, if desired; $875 ——— Eckman and Reutter (478) (Left) A half-pint flask is of hand-hammered sterling silver, gold-lined; $31.50. (479) Cigarette-case to match; $25.50 WY =

3) Lode dd bed tel de 1 Oe eae (480) A small pigskin case contains a set — (481) Versatile is this silver combination of six silver cups and a funnel. Each cup pocket-knife, pencil, and nail-file; $14.50. holds the right portion of flavouring for (482) Below it is a silver pencil with a a tall glass of soda; price, $2675 handle that extends into a foot rule; $10.50

(483) Gold-mounted garters for the well-dressed man may be re- om , strung with fresh lengths of elas- Additional gifts for men tic without a single stitch. They will be found on page 104 <7 eisameiecia may be had for $24.50 a pair

Page 101

December I cA girl’s skin can be a constant humiliation to her—or it can be one oJ the loveliest things about her, so fresh and sweet that no one can see it and not admire it. If you want to be attractive to other people—begin with your skin! flawlessly clear and smooth, with a fresh natural color. The satis- faction you will feel in having a beautiful complexion will more than repay you for the few minutes of regular care that you spend on iteveryday. . . . nv Overcome its defects—learn to care for it in the way that will keep it _A —if you give it the right care Don’T be a fatalist about your skin! Don’t say to yourself that you have a naturally poor complexion, just as some women have a naturally good complexion. A poor complexion is never natural to anyone, If there is something about your skin that keeps it from being attractive—if it is pale and sallow, or excessively oily, or disfigured with blackheads—with blem- ishes—then you can be sure that you are not giving your skin the right kind of care. Begin now to overcome this condition! You can make your skin what you will, for each day it is changing; old skin dies and new takes its place. Give this new skin the special treatment it should have, and see how smooth and lovely you can keep it— how quickly the defects in it will disappear. The following treatment will help you Copyright, 1923, by The Andrew Jergens Co. to free your skin from blemishes — Just before retiring, wash your face with warm water and Woodbury’s Facial Soap, finishing with a dash of cold water. Then dip the tips of your fingers in warm water and rub them on the cake of Woodbury’s until they are covered with a heavy cream-like lather. Cover each blemish with a thick coat of this and leave it on for ten minutes. Then rinse very carefully, first with clear hot water, then with cold. The first time you use a Woodbury treat- ment it will leave your skin with a slightly drawn, tight feeling. This means that your skin is responding in the right way to a more thorough and stimulating form of cleansing. After you have used the treatment once or twice, this drawn feeling will disappear, and you will begin to notice how much clearer and smoother your skin is becoming. Special treatments for all the com- moner skin troubles are given in the booklet, ‘‘A Skin You Love to Touch,’ which is wrapped around every cake of Woodbury’s Facial Soap. Get a cake of Woodbury’s Facial Soap and begin to-night the right treatment for your skin! Within a week or ten days you will see a marked improvement. A 25-cent cake of Woodbury’s lasts a month or six weeks for regular use, includ- ing any of the special treatments. The same qualities that give Woodbury’s its beneficial effect in overcoming common skin troubles make it ideal for regular toilet use. You can also get Woodbury’s in convenient 3-cake boxes. Three Woodbury skin preparations— guest size—for 10 cents Send 10 cents today for a miniature set of the Woodbury skin preparations, containing: A trial size cake of Woodbury’s Facial Soap A sample tube of Woodbury’s Facial Cream A sample box of Woodbury’s Facial Powder Together with the treatment booklet, “A Skin You Love to Touch.” Address The Andrew Jergens Co., 1412 Spring Grove Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio. If yeu live in Canada, address The Andrew Jergens Co., Limited, 1412 Sherbrooke St., Perth, Ontario. English Agents: H. C. Quelch & Co., 4 Ludgate Square, London, E. C. 4. | Your skin can be as lovely as any woman’s

Page 102

Y S SIND SORSPSPSISISINONPS ZRLSYSPNLIIIIO INH ES ee ODSAYYRI NGI SHS WAY SIS Wee ~~ D2 "ORLNONINSNASL,; WA Frock No. 7262 Leaf-brown yalama cloth makes a one-piece, wrap-over frock achieving the pillar sil- houette. Novelty braid fur- nishes the trimming. A chic flaring collar is also offered; sizes, 34 to 42 Frock No. 7219 (Right) A one-piece coat-frock of Patou crépe overlaps and closes on the left hip below a surplice duvetine collar. The cuff arrangement of the long tight sleeves is also of duvetine; sizes, 34 to 42 VOGUE DESIGNS for the SEAMSTRESS G 4 a —_ —— Frock No. 7322 Circular flounces at the front of the skirt and on the sleeves break the severe lines of a charmeen frock belted in the back only. The front overlaps and fastens at the left side; sizes, 34 to 42 Frock No. 7270 (Left) In a two-piece frock of suédekrépe, the kimono-cut overblouse 1s draped and drawn through a loop at one side. The separate skirt is at- tached to a camisole bodice; sizes, 34 to 40 Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City. Patterns are priced at 65 cents for each waist, short coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pattern up to and including 12 years; $1 for one-piece frocks, long coats, and négligées

Page 103

December Il Sean Ve Gananes for (hristmas j THE SAMPLER—The admiration of candy-lovers everywhere. Choc- olates and confections — favorites from ten other Whitman packages. SALMAGUNDI—Chocolates of the famous Whitman’s “super-extra” quality in a gift box of art metal. FUSSY PACKAGE—For fastidious folks; nuts and nut combinations enriched with Whitman’s luscious chocolate. PLEASURE ISLAND—Give to anyone—young or old —who has a love for romance and color. Pirate’s chest weighted with chocolate treasures. NUTS CHOCOLATE COVERED — Considered an especial luxury by those who revel in whole nut meats richly coated with chocolate. STANDARD CHOCOLATES—This is the package which built the Whitman reputation —and is still building it. Write us for booklet illustrating the beautiful Whitman packages. See them at the Whitman agency near you. Hand-painted round boxes and fancy bags, boxes and cases in great variety. Special gift boxes for the kiddies. STEPHEN F. WHITMAN & SON, Inc. a Philadelphia, U. S. A. New York Chicago San Francisco Christmas —The day for Quality Sweets!

Page 104

McCutcheon Handkerchiefs for Christmas Distinctive—personal—in excellent good taste—is the Christmas gift of McCutcheon Handkerchiefs. Indeed, it would be difficult to find a gift more completely satisfying to giver as well as to recipient. Select your Christmas Handkerchiefs from McCutcheon’s—where there is a collection of probably greater distinction and more comprehensive variety than is to be found in any other retail shop in the world. We welcome mail orders as well as personal visits, and assure you of our careful, pains- taking service. James McCutcheon & Co. Department No. 18 Fifth Avenue, 33d & 34th Streets, New York Reg. US Pat. Off QS WNW AHAIi dO A ten-piece set of opaque Venetian glass bottles and jars for the bathroom is extremely decorative and convenient. The bottles are 7 and 9¥% inches high. A canary-yellow, blue, red, or opalescent set may be bought for $35.50 ON HER DRESSING-TABLE HE meticulous care of the well- groomed woman for her personal appearance —either under the guidance of a specialist or, if that is not available, her own home regimen —is towards the prevention of wrinkles, flabby skin, and other undesirable de- fects. One is forced to believe that even age is no excuse for an aged com- plexion, if one is fortunate enough to learn about a certain New York special- ist who is herself proof positive of the efEcacy of her methods. This woman —a doctor, to begin with, and one who has made a real study of constructive health and beauty—first accomplished marvellous results with her own case. No longer young in years, she evolved a system of facial exercises that has made her muscles firm and elastic, re- moved lines from the face and neck, and has made such a thing as a double chin vanish into thin air. GYMNASTICS FOR THE FACE The system is one that any woman may follow. With the aid of a few preparations, the exercises may easily be taken at home. If there is an op- portunity to go to the salon, so much the better, for there the treatments are scientifically given and explained. First, the face and neck are cleansed with a pure cream, which is wiped off with a warm, wet cloth, leaving the pores clean and open. Then, a nourish- ing facial cream is applied, which has for its base almond oil and contains many soothing and curative ingredients. And, now, the “gymnastic facial ex- ercises” are begun. It is not left to the facial cream, excellent as it is, to accomplish wonders by itself. The facial muscles must help. It is these muscles that hold the skin, their cover- ing, firm, and, if they are allowed to become flabby, as any unused muscles will, the skin will naturally sag and begin to show lines and wrinkles. A relaxed muscle has no resistance, and, no matter how much it is manipulated, it is not exercised. As soon as it is contracted, however, it will resist force and pressure and gain strength with exercise. The first object is, then, to exercise the muscles of the face and neck. The ordinary motions of speak- ing, smiling, laughing are habitual and do not, according to this specialist, constitute real exercise. The treatment is simplified by the use of four vocal expressions that bring all the essential muscles of the face and neck into play. First, the mouth is puckered to form the letter “O.” While these muscles are held taut and the blood is drawn out of them, they are massaged with a quick tapping movement. Similarly, three more posi- tions are taken, and the massage con- tinues on the controlling muscles, and then over the entire face and neck. After this, the face is relaxed and, while the muscles are at rest, any lines around and between the eyes and across the forehead are smoothed out by gentle fingers dipped in ice-water. This process of alternate massage and rest is three times repeated. Then, the eyes are bathed and covered with a colc pad. The chin is strapped with a cold cloth, held tightly and moved from side to side, to ensure a firm contour. Again, the face is bathed with warm water, finishing with ice, and is now ready for the very slight make-up that it requires. If there is any tendency towards enlarged pores, an astringent is applied. Perhaps the most remark- able preparation used in this treatment is a novel base for powder, or, rather, a combined cream and powder that is beneficial to the skin, as well as to the appearance. It is made in cake form, to be rubbed lightly over the skin and worked in with the finger-tips. Instead of clogging the pores, it cleans and closes them, forming a slight film that is an actual protection against sunburn and dust. Moreover, it makes very little powder necessary and, being water-proof, prevents any unpleasant trace of shininess. A WATER-PROOF ROUGE If rouge is used, this specialist recom- mends a cream which blends easily and is made with the same ingredients as the beautifier, adding a harmless vege- table colouring. It stays dry and greaseless under all temperatures and is thoroughly water-proof. The cleansing cream used in this treatment may be had at $1 and $1.75 and the facial cream at $1.50 and $2. 75 a jar. The base for powder may be had in flesh, brunette, and white at $1.25, and a cake lasts a long time. The rouge is prepared in four shades— light, dark, medium, and orange—and packed in an attractive vanity size with magnifying mirror; $1.25. Note—Vogue Shopping Service, 19 West 44th Street, will be glad to make purchases upon receipt of a cheque for the amount involved, or it will furnish, upon request, the address of the place mentioned. A very small service charge is included in the prices pub- lished. —— —

Page 105

December 1 95 ew Principles in Packard | Straight-Eight The performance which lifts the new Packard Straight-Eight out of any pos- sible competition with any other car, either domestic or foreign, is the result of new engineering principles. It is a fair question, therefore, to ask the nature of these principles and what are the qualities of performance they give the man who seeks the finest type of motoring. First of all, the Packard Straight-Eight differs in design from all other eight- cylinder cars. The new engineering principles applied in its construction include a scientific readjustment of power distribution. This is accomplished by a new combi- nation of cylinders and a new firing order that bring the eight cylinders into a single unit of power. The result is perfect harmony. There is a balance of power not found in any twin-four or tandem-four. They also include a new crankshaft What They Are and What They Mean design which gives power smoothness, motor rigidity and durability. There are nine crankshaft bearings and the greatest distance between bearings does not exceed 234 inches. All the complications of the V-Type motor have been eliminated and all the simplicity of the Single-Six, companion car to the Straight-Eight, retained. By reason of these new ideas the power unit weighs 350 pounds less than that of the Twin-Six which the Straight- Bear in mind that the new Packard Straight-Eight has a score of important features that make it the greatest of all Packards. When you examine it note these: the exclusive Packard Four-W heel Brakes; the exclusive Packard Fuelizer which speeds up acceleration, reduces the warming-up period and contributes to fuel economy; a stzering gear with the minimum of friction and which automatically straightens the car out of a turn; a three-fold lighting system; completeness of equipment. Eight supplanted and it is possible to make the unqualified statement that— Never before has there been a motor of such perfect co-ordination of all re- ciprocating and rotating parts. The effect of these new ideas of design on the power flow is nothing short of magical. It must be experienced to be understood. Were we to attempt to describe it we could compare it only to the flow of an electric current. Combined with this truly indescribable smoothness in the silent flow of a seem- ingly inexhaustible well of power there is an equally remarkable flexibility and ease of control. The Straight-Eight has been three years in development and is based on Packard's 24 years of experience. Whether or not you have previously been conscious of Packard's leader- ship in design, you cannot sense the great advance which has been made in motor cars until you have rid- den in the Packard Straight-Eight. PACKARD STRAIGHT-EIGHT §

Page 106

French Silk Cravats $6.00 each French Handkerchiefs Center Models, French Linen, $2.50 ea. SHIRTMAKERS AND AABERDASHERS Monograms Other two Models, Silk Crepe, $4.00 ea. Handsome Lounge Brocaded Silk Price $150.00 ao) additional Center Robe Three-quarter Length Model Other Robes from $37.50 to $250.00 Distinctive Holiday Gifts Rich Paisley Silk Price $175.00 Price $200.00 The Articles illustrated above are of Luxurious Quality, and come in a wide variety of Beautiful Colorings. They are most suitable for Gifts of Exceptional Character. When ordering by mail state colors preferred Illustrated Booklet sent upon request 512 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK AT 430 STREET PARIS—2 RUE DE CASTIGLIONE O C oe 2S Bi hes Weddings NEW YORK Rea.—On October 5, to Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Greene Rea, a daughter. Tomes.—On September 8, to Mr. and Mrs. Alexander Hadden Tomes, a daughter. PHILADELPHIA Buckley.—On October 8, to Mr. and Mrs. Edward S. Buckley, a daughter, Elizabeth Buckley. Caner.—On September 26, to Mr. and Mrs. William John Caner, a daughter. Smith.—On September 30, to Mr. and Mrs. R. Penn Smith, junior, a daughter. Deaths NEW YORK Ashwell.—On October 13, at Sharon, Connecticut, Grace Julia Walker Ashwell, wife of the late William Cawley Ashwell. Babcock.—On October 12, Kate S. Bab- cock, daughter of the late Mr. and Mrs. Samuel D. Babcock. Bonnell.—On October 9, at Paris, France, Marguerite Schley Bonnell, wife of John Harper Bonnell. Bull.—On October 2, J. Edgar Bull, hus- band of Sarah Adams Williams Bull. Burr.—On September 29, at Wetmore, Colorado, Winthrop Burr, junior, son of Mr. Winthrop Burr, of Lawrence, Long Island. Irving-—On October 9, Gugy milius Irving, husband of Marie Henderson Irving. Mali.—On October 4, at Plainfield, New Jersey, Pierre Mali, husband of Frances Johnston Mali. Merlesmith.—On October 3, the Rever- end Wilton Merlesmith, D.D., husband of Zaidee Van Santvoord Merlesmith. Merrill.—On September 29, Ada Godfrey Merrill, wife of the late Isaac H. Merrill. Metcalf.—On October 12, at Orange, New Jersey, Manton Bradley Metcalf, husband of Maude Browning Metcalf. Ogden.—On October 14, at Bar Harbor, Maine, David B. Ogden, husband of Mary Sherman Ogden. Peters.—On October 12, at Garden City, New York, Ralph Peters, husband of Eleanor Hartshorn Goodman Peters. Schenck.—On October 9, at Englewood, New Jersey, Rachel Philips Pearce Schenck, wife of Reginald Hewson Schenck. Thorne.—On October 9, Phebe Van Schoonhoven Thorne, wife of the late Samuel Thorne. Van Rensselaer.—On October 11, Olivia Atterbury Van Rensselaer, wife of the late Kiliaen Van Rensselaer. Engagements NEW YORK Cumming-Angier.— Miss Helen Halkett Cumming, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert William Cumming, to Mr. Donald Angier, son of Mr. and Mrs. George McNeil Angier. Cutting - Origo. — Miss Iris Cutting, daughter of the late W. Bayard Cutting, junior, and Lady Sybil Scott, to the Marchese Antonio Origo, of Rome, Italy. Hansen-Smith.—Miss Mathilde Catlin Hansen, daughter of Mrs. Catlin Hansen, to Mr. William W. Smith, son of Charles Morris Smith, junior, of Providence, Rhode Island. Hurd-Cady.—Miss Clarissa Hurd, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. George Arthur Hurd, to Mr. Everett Ware Cady. BOSTON Baird-Hart.— Miss Priscilla Baird, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick Herbert Baird, to Mr. Francis Russell Hart, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Francis Russell Hart. Ogden-Watt.— Miss Joan Ogden, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. Hugh W. Ogden, to Lieutenant Richard Morgan Watt, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Richard Morgan Watt, of Washington, D. C. BUFFALO Northrup-Knox.—Miss Helen Northrup, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Lewis G. Northrup, to Mr. Seymour Horace Knox. NEW ORLEANS Downman-Billion.— Miss Sadie Frances Downman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Henry Downman, to M. Olivier Armand Bil- lion, of Paris, France, son of Monsieur and Madame Alexandre Billion, of Chateau de Vipray, Saint Martin le Beau, France. NEW YORK Bayne-Weir.—On October 2, in Saint John’s Church, at Lattingtown, Long Island Mr. James Edward Bayne, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. James Edward Bayne, and Miss Mary Lee Weir, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Richard Weir. Deans-Pomeroy.—On October 11, Mr. Robert Barr Deans, son of Mrs. John Sterling Deans, and Miss Lucy Pomeroy, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Watson Pomeroy. Gordon-Barclay.—On October 13, in Christ Church, at Short Hills, New Jersey, Mr. Walter Francis Gordon and Miss Rosalie Paul Barclay, daughter of Mr. and Mrs, Henry Anthony Barclay. Hale-Houston.—On October 20, in Trin- ity Church, at Ossining, New York, Mr. Rufus Frost Hale, son of Mr. and Mrs. William §, Hale, and Miss Tacie Belle Houston, daugh- ter of Mr. and Mrs. Buchanan Houston. Hall-Schiff.—On October 17, Mr. Richard B. W. Hall and Miss Dorothy Schiff, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Mortimer L. Schiff. Herzog-Ramsey.—On October 5, Mr. Edwin Harvey Herzog, son of Mr. and Mrs, J. H. Herzog, of Albany, New York, and Miss Margaret Guion Ramsey, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Ramsey. Hilton-Sloan.—On October 6, Mr. John G. M. Hilton, son of the late Mr. and Mrs. George Porter Hilton, of Albany, New York, and Miss Madeleine Lazard Sloan, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. David Ulysses Sloan, of Mil- brook, New York. Hyde-Bigelow—On October 30, Mr. J. J. Hindon Hyde, son of the late J. E. Hindon Hyde and Mrs. Hyde, and Miss Cynthia Bige- low, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Ernest A. Bigelow. Lilley-Brusati.—On October 6, at Milford, Connecticut, Mr. Theodore Lilley, son of the late George L. Lilley, of Waterbury, Connect- icut, and the Countess Sylvia Brusati, daughter of Mrs. William D. Page. Lithiby-Schwarz.—On October 6, in Saint Thomas’s Episcopal Church, in New York City, Mr. John Stewart Lithiby, son of Sir John and Lady Lithiby, of London, England, and Miss Dorothy Grant Schwarz, daughter of Mrs. Theodore Edward Schwarz, of Boston, Massachusetts. Parker-Sturges.—On October 12, in Saint John’s Church, at Fairfield, Connecticut, Mr. Dudley Fuller Parker, son of Judge Charles W. Parker and Mrs. Parker, of Morristown, New Jersey, and Miss Sarah MacWhorter Sturges, daughter of the late Henry Cady Sturges and Mrs. Sturges. Putnam-Perkins.—On October 6, in the Second Unitarian Church, at Boston, Massa- chusetts, Mr. Palmer Casslett Putnam, son of Major George Haven Putnam and Mrs. Putnam, and Miss Therese Perkins, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry G. Perkins, of Brook- line, - Massachusetts. Rainsford-Nichols.—On October 27, in Saint Mathew’s Church, at Bedford, New York, Mr. W. Kerr Rainsford, son of the Reverend Dr. William S. Rainsford, and Miss Christina Nichols, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Livingston Nichols. BALTIMORE Randolph-Bulkley.—On November 3, at Ridgefield, Connecticut, Mr. Francis F. Ran- dolph, son of Mr. and Mrs. George F. Ran- dolph, and Miss Sarah Tod Bulkley, daughter of Mr. and Mrs Jonathan Bulkley, of New York City. PHILADELPHIA Barratt-Drayton.—On October 13, in Saint Thomas’s Episcopal Church, Mr. Norris §. Barratt, junior, son of Judge Norris S. Barratt and Mrs. Barratt, and Miss Evelyn Rodman Drayton, daughter of Mr. Robert Massey Drayton. SAINT LOUIS Orthwein-McBride.—On September 29, at Asheville, North Carolina, Mr. William W. Orthwein, second, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frederick C. Orthwein, and Miss Dorothy McBride, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Cullen McBride. SAN FRANCISCO McCoy-Bull.—On September 25, Mr. Paul McCoy, son of Mr. and Mrs. William J. McCoy, and Miss Newell Bull, daughter of Mrs. Alpheus Bull. WASHINGTON, D. C. Mitchell-Miller.—On October 11, in the Grosse Pointe Presbyterian Church, at De- troit, Michigan, Brigadier-General William Mitchell and Miss Elizabeth Turnbull Miller, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Sidney Trowbridge Miller, of Detroit, Michigan. ®

Page 107

E Y I] in mn December 1 DOBBS - 620 ana 244 Fifth Avenue | 2 West Fiftieth Street NEW YORK ~ PALM BEACH ~ SOUTHAMPTON Uamindfpul of the witchery of het DOBBS Gostume, she ts Yunking | now of frrcnds,~ Cravads bake mete~ Michs, ploves and p 4 Hils,Cous | and Caps GQlore~ ~ DOBB golf Umbrellas, Mil-hores, Scar vb orowhal mare PH LOY loseg Lor more! Ors Yor Wéiren. DOBBS VYots, Frocks Sweales, Shirts and Cots ~ Umbrellas ard. shcks loo lhe 2 Ofls hal men and women lobe Pomme: am.

Page 108

Attractive Novelties Suitable for Christmas Gifts Booklet “GIFT SUGGESTIONS X255 — Pure Linen Huckaback Towel, size 15x22 ins. Filet Lace In- sertion, Hand Embroidered. $2.75 each Mail Orders exe- cuted promptly and sent post- Sree to any part of the U.S. A. LADIES’ HANDKERCHIEFS A choice variety of Hand em- broidered Corner Handkerchiefs, attractively boxed, suitable for presentation, various designs. X249 — (Illustrated above) 4 for $2.00, also 4 for $3.00, $3.50 and $4.50. 6 for $2.25, $3.00, $5.00 and $6.00. No. 4” Sent on Request X256—Pure Linen Huckaback Towel, size 15x22 ins. Filet Lace In- sertion. $1.75 each X232 — Pure Linen Handker- chief with fine Carrick ma cross lace edge. $5.00 each X272—Pure Linen Hemstitched Cock- tail Napkins em- broidered in colors or All White. $12.00 doz. ATTRACTIVE LUNCHEON SETS Ji2i—Pure Linen Hand Hemstitched 13-piece Sets, com- prising one 18x54 in. Runner and twelve 12x18 in. Mats. $22.00 set. # Also 13-piece 4 Square Sets in same -& «style, comprising ss One 22x22 in. Cen- terpiece, six 6x6 in. and six 10x10 in. X239—Pure Linen Handker- chief, Binche Lace edge, Glove size. $3.75 each. Doilies. $12.00 set. Le ack om a Ga X266—Sardinian Lace Chair Back. $2.00 each. WALPOLE BROTHERS HOUSEHOLD LINEN SPECIALISTS ESTABLISHED 1766 “Fifth Ave, cor. 35% St New 6rk Also 587 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. Waringstown, Co. Down, Ireland Factory: LONDON & DUBLIN [wn Lat OR the Christmas dinner, the cli- max in a day of happy surprises and happy reunions, the hostess generally endeavours tocompile a menu that will interest the separate appetites of her guests. But this ambitious and thoroughly laudable plan, unless prop- erly handled, is likely to result in a formidable series of culinary climaxes, and it is only by adjusting the prefer- ences of the guests to a properly planned menu that satisfactory results may be achieved. Fortunately, how- ever, there are numerous combinations of gustatory delights upon which a jury of epicures might agree, even at Christ- mas, and upon one of these the suc- cessful hostess centres her endeavours. Although turkey is generally re- garded as a part of the Thanksgiving menu, by reasons of its flavour and its ability to accommodate the appe- tites of a larger number of guests than other table fowls, it is frequently used for any one or all three of the major holidays — Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New-year’s. And, with the turkey as the piéce de résistance, the menu may be as elaborate or as simple as the hostess may wish. The following is suggested as seasonable. Oysters on the Shell Clear Green Turtle Soup Lobster Vol-au-Vent Roast Turkey with Truffle Sauce Cranberry Jelly Sweet Potatoes Onions in Cream Grilled Eggplant Baked Squash Endive Salad with Malaga Grapes Maple Mousse Hot Cheese Canapés Coffee For the lobster vol-au-vent, two cup- fuls of diced, cold, boiled lobster are taken with six good-sized mushrooms and one truffle minced fine. Three tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour are mixed and browned slightly in an enamel saucepan; to this is added one and one-half cupfuls of thin cream that has been heated, a dash of cay- enhe, a grating of nutmeg, one-half saltspoonful of salt, and a bit _ of minced parsley. When this is thor- oughly blended, if found too thin, it may be thickened by the addition of the beaten yolk of an egg. The lob- ster meat, chopped mushrooms, and truffle are added, the whole is heated thoroughly, and the vol-au-vent cases are filled with the mixture. TRUFFLE SAUCE For the truffle sauce, the turkey should have been basted while roast- ing with a cupful of hot water and one-third of a cupful of any desired flavouring seasoned with butter, salt, and pepper. The liquor remaining in the pan, after the bird has been re- moved, is thickened with three table- spoonfuls of browned flour, and four truffles chopped fine are added to the sauce after it is strained. For the chestnut dressing, three cup- fuls of large French chestnuts are blanched and cooked in boiling salted water until soft. When tender, they are drained and put through a potato ricer, and one-fourth of a cupful of but- ter is added with salt, pepper, and one-fourth of a cupful of cream. The mixture is then combined with one- fourth of a cupful of melted butter mixed with one cupful of cracker crumbs rolled fine, and the turkey is stuffed with this. One is also tempted to give another recipe from a private Southern cook-book. To make it, one cupful of mashed sweet potatoes, one cupful of boiled and mashed chestnuts, one dessert spoonful of butter, one wine-glass of cream, and salt and pep- per to taste are required. Mix the potatoes, chestnuts, cream, and sea- soning, and do not put the stuffing in until the turkey is half roasted. VOGUE HOSTESS For the oyster stuffing, a Mase. chusetts descendant of John Alden gives her recipe—one that has beep handed down for generations. Three cupfuls of stale bread-crumbs are mixed with one-half cupful of melted butter and seasoned well with salt pepper, and a few drops of onion juice e pint of oysters are cleaned and drained free from their liquor and are well mixed with the other ingredients and the turkey is stuffed with this, If any one prefers the sort of stuf. ing his mother used to make, let him have the following and remain of the opinion that it is a little better than all the others. Mboisten slightly one and one-half quarts of dry bread crumbs with cold water. After all the. water has been squeezed out of the crumbs, a half-cupful of melted but. ter, one-third of a teaspoonful each of sweet marjoram, thyme, and sum. mer savory, one-third of a cupful of sage, and salt and black pepper to taste are added. All are thoroughly worked together with one-half cupful of minced onion that has been fried in butter until slightly brown and tender, These are mixed in true chef’s fashion, with the hands, and then bound to gether with a raw egg. Cranberry jelly, as made on Cape Cod, is particularly good. Four cup- fuls of cranberries are picked over, washed, and put in a saucepan. One and one-fourth cupfuls of sugar and one cupful of boiling water are added, and the whole boiled twenty minutes, After rubbing through a fine sieve, two cupfuls of sugar are added. This is cooked five minutes, and _ then turned into a mould wet in cold water or into small glasses. TO IMPROVE THE VEGETABLES As for the vegetables, it is likely that every cook will have her own pet recipes for these, but one is tempted in the matter of baked squash, to sug- gest that, after plenty of soft butter has been spread over the squash, be- fore it is placed in the oven, grated Parmesan cheese be spread over the top and browned quickly. For the onions, heavy cream may be used, seasoned with salt, a dash of paprika, and plenty of butter. The grilled egg- plant should be cut thick as a piece of steak. If the sweet potatoes are to be cooked in true Southern style, this method will be followed. Bake the potatoes, remove from the oven, cut in halves, lengthwise, and scoop out the inside. Mash, add two table- spoonfuls of butter to every six pota- toes, cream to moisten, and season. Refill the skins with the mixture and bake five minutes in a hot oven. For the salad, peeled Malaga grapes are seeded, cut in half, and combined with endive with the hostess’s favourite dressing, which may be Russian, Thou- sand Island, or mayonnaise. If an ex- tra festive touch is wanted, some little balls scooped out of avocado-pears or some grapefruit carpels may be added. For the maple mousse, four eggs are slightly beaten and one cupful of hot maple syrup is poured over them slowly. This is cooked until the mix- ture thickens, and, after it has cooled, combined with one pint of thick cream beaten until stiff. The whole is poured into a mould, packed in ice and salt, and left to ripen for three hours. Canapés are made usually by cutting bread in slices a quarter of an inch thick or in strips four inches long by an inch and a half wide. The bread may then be toasted, fried in deep fat until brown, or buttered and browned in the oven. It should then be covered with a highly seasoned mixture of eggs, cheese or shell-fish, and the result is a most appetizing savory.

Page 109

UR § Massa- Alden been Three S are Nelted | Salt, Juice, and id are lients, his, stuff- t him of the than ’ one read. r all ut of 1 but- each sum- ul of -r to ighly upful ed in nder, hion, | to- ape cup- ver, One and ded, ites, eve, This hen old ' Se ke Ce December 1 € vy awed THE ONE PERFECT GIFT Jewelry is personal and intimate. Its purpose is to adorn and beautify. It is peculiarly appropriate on all occasions where gifts ave given. Above are a few suggestions from a wide range of articles to fit any taste and any pocketbook. A PEARL TO ADD TO A NECKLACE IS A HAPPY THOUGHT FOR A HOLIDAY GIF “~ BLACK STARE FROST JEWELERS FIFTH AVENUE CORNER FORT Y- EIGHTH STREET. NEW YORK 113th Year a

Page 110

Give Gifts of Silver \ } JT HAT Christmas gift can be more rich, more useful, than Treasure Solid Silver? What gift is more appropriate? Through all the lavish hospitality of our modern Christmas runs still the rugged, simple strain of long ago—and always will. Treasure Silver in the William and Mary style is like this Christmas spirit. Its beauty finds its origin far back in the days ot our forefathers, in the closing years of Seventeenth Century England. Note its purity of line, its rare simplicity, its downright dignity. And yet its old-world beauty is a symbol of all the luxury and comfort of our modern living standards. There is a jeweler in your city who sells Treasure Solid Silver. Ask him to show you “The William and Mary Style’’—and write to us for your copy of a booklet telling all about it.

Page 111

December Il ee et illiam& ary { 088 ~]702) Here are just a few suggestions for moderate priced gifts of WILLIAM AND MARY Silver. Most good jewelers carry The WILLIAM AND MARY Style in stock and if you will tell your jeweler what you wish to purchase, he can supply you promptly. Set of Six Tea Spoons, medium wt. $9.85 Tea Spoons, heavy wt. 12.00 Dessert Spoons 22.00 Table Spoons 28:50 Dessert Forks 20.88 Dessert Knives 20.25 Dinner Forks 28.50 Dinner Knives 22.25 Coffee Spoons 6.75 Salad Forks (Individ- ual) 16.00 Orange Spoons 14.63 Each Butter Knife $4.40 Cold Meat Fork 6.65 Each Cream Ladle $3.10 Gravy Ladle 6.30 Lemon Fork 1.75 Preserve Spoon 6.65 Salad Spoon (serving) 9.85 Salad Fork (serving) 9.85 Sugar Tongs 3.85 Baby Set, Spoon and Fork 3.70 Child’s Set, Knife, Fork and Spoon 7.80 Three-piece After-dinner Coffee Set 210.00 With tray as illustrated On Opposite page 310.00 I OO AIEEE IS : ¢ NO oroNee err

Page 112

QRQUSENQYT QL TV QL TV QL TNL TN LID ESTABLISHED 1859 Willcox & Gibbs Eleétric ~The Aristocrat of Sewing Machines For over 60 years the finest families have owned and sworn by Willcox & Gibbs machines. For generations the gowns of patrician women of many lands have been wrought on them. Today, the Willcox & Gibbs Electric is invariably the choice in homes of culture and discrimination. Yet families of moderate means may enjoy its advantages, with all its fine- ness and with its 16 original features. NO BOBBINS TO WIND. No tensions to adjust. Everlastingly silent direct-drive motor. Any current. Triv- ialrunning cost. Beautiful stitches ¢hree times as strong as ordinary machine A Wonderful Christmas Gift The Willcox & Gibbs Eleéric Sewing Machine (Console Console (losed, (Containing Machine You Would Never Guess It To Be a Sewing Machine The Console—the most beautiful sewing ma- chine ever made—~-combining the mechanical superiorities of the Willcox & Gibbs Electric with a graceful mahogany-fin sh writing desk, table or stand suitable for any room. stitches. Sewsanything,any speed. Free home trial. Free sewing lessons. Old machine in trade. Sold as above (with handsome carrying case) or with Con- sole (see below). BRANCH OFFICES: BALTIMORE, MD., 321 No. Howard Street BOSTON, MASS., 363 Boylston Street BROOKLYN,N. Y., 218 Livingston Street CHICAGO, ILL., 17 No. State Street CINCINNATI, O., 206 West 7th Street LOUISVILLE, KY., 643 South 4th Avenue LOS ANGELES, CAL., 825 West 7th Street MINNEAPOLIS, MINN., 118 South Eighth St. ST. PAUL, MINN., 98 East 6th Street NEWARK,N. J., 23 Academy Street NEW YORK,N.Y., 239 Fifth Avenue PHILADELPHIA, PA., 131 South 12th Street SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., 504 Sutter Street ST. LOUIS, MO., 209 North roth Street WASHINGTON, D.C. 702 10th Street, N. W. TROT N.Y. Cor, Fulton and 4th Sts, CLEVELAND, OHIO 332 The Arcade Console Open Send (Coupon to Nearest Branch Send me illustrated descriptive folders on your Portable Electric and Console Electric—also prices, terms, and .in- formation on free trial, free sewing lessons, etc. A Name Street Address City Willcox & Gibbs satire. Home Office: 658 Broadway, NCew York, N, Yr. (Courtesy Service \ EON & (502) A silver tea-ball with Rinne chain and ring attached is in the form of a quaint teapot; $575 INEXPENSIVE CHRISTMAS GIFTS FOR THE PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. For instructions, see page 82 (503) A brass rest for book or newspaper is an ideal gift for the man who reads at the breakfast table; $2.25 (504) (Below) A night-set of Swedish engraved glass consists of a7-inch bottle with a stopper in the form of a miniature bottle, and a 4-inch tumbler. The stopper will con- tain enough flavouring jor atumbler of water; $4.25 (505) A box containing two packs of English playing-cards in highly glazed linen is a de- lightful gift for one who likes a game of cards; $3.25 y Up, CULLUM X Bradley and Merrill (506) An electric toaster for four slices has a handle by which the rack may be turned and the reverse side of the bread toasted without removing it, thus obviating crumbs and burnt fingers: $9

Page 113

Music? T is Classic Music made to live forever in tonal form as well as in manuscript through the art of the great modern players. Whose portrayals of Chopin do you prefer—that of de Pachmann, of Paderewski, of Hofmann, of Gabrilowitsch? The Duo-Art brings to your delighted ears their every subtlety. It is Romantic Music—the wonderful melodies which tune our senses to things beyond this earth—all the sentiment—the thrill that can come with music, comes with the Duo-Art. Do you love to have a gifted musician sit down at the piano, run his fingers over the keys and play one after another of your favorite things? This, the Duo-Art will do. It is an accompanist—if you sing, or have a **To Complete an Evening’s Pleasure Give Me Music— The Duo-Art zs Music!” 103 cae as . f * “4 5 © la vi guest who sings—or play a solo tnstrument—the Dug-Art’s beautiful accompaniments are always ready—a perfect background for any occasion or demand. It is a host in itself for dancing—all the latest and best dance music is part of the Duo-Art reper- toire. By means of recordings by authoritative dance pianists this marvelous instrument stands ready to furnish the most entrancing dance music imaginable. The Duo-Art illustrated is a Steinway Grand. As a piano it is the magnificent Steinway un- changed for hand-playing. When the wonderful Duo-Art recordings are to be played, a perfor- ated roll is inserted, the electric motor started, and the music begins. THE AEOLIAN COMPANY AEOLIAN HALL NEW YORK

Page 114

Kaskel & Kaskel RECOMMEND CHRISTMAS GIFTS OF DISTINCTION French Silk Hosiery— fancy for day wear and Imported Mufflers, either black for evening, with of Silk or Wool—tastefully executed in a variety of hand embroidered clocks weaves. Muffler illustrated and figures. Illustrated $30.00. Monogram $7.50 top, $7.50; below, $7.00 Gifts of French Neckwear are always appreciated Scarfs of moire silks in shades and designs distinctly new. $6.00 Dressing Gowns cut from foreign Silks and Velvets—in handsome brocaded patterns, also novel printed designs in either bright or quiet colorings. Gown illustrated, $150.00 ORDERS BY MAIL WILL RECEIVE CAREFUL ATTENTION 56/ Fifth Avenue,at 46th Street, NewYork 40 So. Michigan Boulevard, Chicago AN ASSORTMENT OF GIFTS FOR MEN CHRISTMAS UL dddeecccldeecc CEE LECCE CE EECCCCEACQCEAEAEAAHAEEL (509) Writing-pad of brown sole leather; con- tains pad, dictionary, address-book, pencil, and stamp book; 6 by 9 inches; $7.20 (510) Brass cigarette-box; rich burnished finish, engraved design, cedar lining; 2% inches high; $4.25. (511) Ash and match tray of brass; fluted edge and engraved design; 5-inch diameter; $2.75 Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. For instructions, see page 82 * ee Uda MINN (512) This box contain- ing natural camel’s - hair stockings and brown - and - tan - striped poplin tie makes a most accepta- ble gift; $7.25 yy W ZL Yy Ly Wty YS SAAN (Left) (513) Ciga- rette-box and server; Florentine toole d leather lined with moire silk; admirably designed for con- venience in offering and accepting a cig- arette; $30.50

Page 115

December i 105 i. — | YOY YI GI YOGI GIGI YIGIPIYIAI YI GPO GYI YI GYIYIGOCYIGI CAINS os = | is. oe HA A CYIQYD ADEN EPI CAS CAD CAD CJS EAD AD YO CQYD CAD. CAD. C49 CAD CAD CAD CAO HO CPD DCI YI CHICO HOCH YO UID Chora cin ca ca ch on claciacia diac caclia cho ch oh ahohatonca ca clochcliociaclociaciociacts th 1 chodiacholaciadn da cic cid cla chan an ancnandraacnandaciaciacia cia cra cca ca cra caciacocncaciodacis cia cva “Yesterday The bluest blood of medieval France deemed it a high distinction to own a sedan chair—even as modern Americans admire and cherish fine motor cars with coachwork by Wilson. The emblem—Wilson built Body—is known far and wide as the crest of pioneer coachbuilders, whose creative skill was recog- nized long before motors retired the horse. The highest standards of luxurious travel are fulfilled * Today ina motor car with ilson built Body Product of C. R. WILSON BODY COMPANY, Detroit and Bay City, Michigan CVs GYs ‘

Page 116

wor, SS CushionTop WARD ROBE TRUNKS

THE WORLD-WIDE RECOGNITION OF THIS NAME AND THIS MARK PROVES THAT APPRECIATION OF QUALITY IS UNIVERSAL

“NO TRUNK LIKE A WARDROBE—NO WARDROBE LIKE A HARTMANN”? The fine art of Christmas giv- ing is aptly demonstrated by the gift of a Hartmann Ward- robe—the standard of trunk beauty and convenience. Its suggestion of the romance of travel and the allurement of places far from home makes it the ideal Christmas gift. Look for Hartmann Ward- robe Trunks where better luggage is sold. HARTMANN TRUNK ComMPANY Racine, Wisconsin M. LANGMUIR MANUFACTURING COMPANY, LTD., TORONTO Licensed Canadian Manufacturers J. B. Brooks & Company, Ltp., BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND Distributors for Great Britain

\ Lradley and Merrill s (516) This compact black leather portfolio makes writing letters an affair of ease and comfort instead of the dreaded function it so often is. It contains compartments for stamps, dictionary, address-book, note-paper, and one’s answered and unanswered correspondence; 8% by 11% inches; $10.50 (517) A Christmas gift designed to assist the overworked tablets of memory is a telephone-pad to hang on the mouthpiece; in blue, rose, heliotrope, green, or brown leather; $3.05. (518) A leather shield for the mouthpiece, im similar colours, has a loose-leaf folder for numbers; $4.90 GUESTS (520) A gift offer- ing an attractive GIFTS OF LEATHER COMBINE CHARM AND CONVENIENCE

Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. For instructions, see page 82

,

BE SURE THE HARTMANN RED >< IS ON THE TRUNK YOU BUY od

LLL) HARTMAN Copyright 1923, bv Hartmayn Trunk Company SPLLLDL LL LS La aS aS aS aS Sa aS SD DP PPS SD SS SI SSS SSS SSS SSI)

solution of the laundry problem will be found in this duplicate list enclosed in a blue, rosé, _ heliotrope, brown, or green leather case; in- cludes an extra filler; $2.75 Eckman and Reutter (519) A guest book in red, brown, or green leather to record names, ad- dresses, and the pass- ing wit or wisdom of one’s guests is espe- cially acceptable for a country house; 6% by 9 inches; $570

D

Page 117

‘UE December vi THE CHRISTMAS GIFT r : “Glowing Presentation” . “Scientific Standard” + . ‘**‘Superb Picture-book”’ ‘Literary Masterpiece” , *‘Model of Accuracy” SA) | O ‘*Gallery of Art Studies” 4 ‘*Panoramic View of Nature’”’ sane a By ‘*Mother-lode of Information” ‘ ; Wi LLIAM bosme of Western Bird-lore’’ =a. | ‘Delight to the Casual Reader — e : LEON Dawson “Treasure Trove for Students’’ R ‘*‘Bonanza for the Children” ‘Product of California” *‘Demonstration of ‘THE BIRDS OF CALIFORNIA” is a Western Resources” complete, scientific and popular account E of the 580 species and subspecies of birds found in The Golden State, and as such it describes more than one-half of the ¥ total number of bird species found in North America. ‘‘Memorable Achievement’ The-work is issued in a variety.of editions suitable for uae : oe every purse. **The BIRDS OF CALIFORNIA” is. i Work of Enduring Worth unquestionably, the most attractive, informing erid satisfying work upon birds ever published. i. COMPLETE IN FOUR VOLUMES SECURELY BOXED Prices range from $45 to $375 according to edition and binding. te Oa a oti Rt! lbs tes) Bgl. ‘Vindication of . Western Technique’”’ i ‘Guide to a New Realm’ s ay SUBSCRIPTION » EASY ” YMENT " SATISPACT ION. a Fated | GUARANTEED 7% a The ILLUSTRATIONS include, ‘A Ae da in the better editions: a 30 Full-page Photogravures a 110 Full-page Color-plates 4 SOUTH MOULTON COMPANY, igi 4 120 Full-page Duotones 1 Bank of Italy Building, , apes oS : rs - oe Los Angeles, California po rn Oe ee Gentlemen: Please tell me about ‘THE BIRDS OF CALIFORNIA." I shall 1145 Half-tone Cuts, probably be interested in: o O. ise de hex luxe editions _ : illustrating If I subscribe I shall expect 5 The feaar: eubonatee edition iil O Immediate delivery : 2100 Pages of Text. ] Guaranteed Xmas delivery Very truly yours, Se i ss Vogue , December

Page 118

ia HERE are few gifts that convey in themselves as much of the spirit of deep sincerity as does a good watch. Chosen thoughtfully to fulfill the need of some dear friend, it can become the perfect and lasting expres- sion of your regard. Let it be, first of all, a timekeeper of unquestioned performance. And then, so that it may impart a full measure of pride to its owner, let it be dressed irre- proachably in a case of Wadsworth artistry. TITTTITITITI LALLA LAURA Aono CMM ee The quality of the case is the stamp of the whole watch. For the finest movement, if cloaked in a poorly fitting case of doubtful taste, instantly becomes an undervalued gift, a subject of regret. Below are pictured some of the most beautiful ex- amples of fine case-making ever produced. Strong, YO) 09099) wa i D}OODYYDYONID NYDN NNT Ba y

Page 119

December I NY exactly fitting, they offer the highest possible protec- tion to the watch movement. And each is from the hands of the Wadsworth artists. For more than thirty years Wadsworth cases have dressed and protected the movements of leading watch manufacturers and importers. Many of the most popular designs with which you are acquainted are Wadsworth creations. When you buy a watch, select a movement that your jeweler will recommend and insist that it be dressed in a Wadsworth case. The Wadsworth name is your assurance not only of correct design but of the finest material and workmanship. Tue WapswortH Watcu Case Company Dayton, Ky., Suburb of Cincinnati, Ohio Case makers for the leading watch movements Mth ihe _ =e = 277 fu ra hin’ Hi \ Mr, | 109 PLC OLLu LLL LUELLA LULL Looe

Page 120

These imported favours are charming for Christmas parties. (531) Tin hay wagon contain- ing candy; $2.05 for 6. (532) Goat-cart on square of choco- N ote late; $6.25 for 6. (533) Candy- filled tin truck; $2.05 for 6 Let Vogue do your Christmas _ shop- CHRISTMAS GIFTS OF ping. For instruc- tions, see page 82 DAINTY PROVISIONS (Left) (534) A gay Christmas basket wreathed with red ribbons and ever- greens contains a Va- riety of candies, nuts, and cakes, wrapped in tissue - paper; $75.50 77d ty = N « aaa MAM MW WW AoW S f o> SS (Right) Preserves Yey CY in glass gars: (535) Tumbler of mar- rons, $1.75. (536) Peaches, quart size, $3. (537) Straw- ° . berries, $3. (538) Handling with Gloves ‘Sete ecpetinsies, $2.25. (539) Fruit cocktail, pint size, a4 $175. (540) Cher- | ries, $175. Se iy Pickled peaches, wid the caress of charm and the touch of $175 Fashion linger lightly about the things your hands have touched. Choose Mohawk Gloves to accentuate the grace of gesture. QUA 6 WS AN ws . ve, ay Wy (Left) (542) A real English home-made plum pudding in a bowl is made in 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4- pound sizes; $175, $325; $4.75, and $6.25. (543) A limp, stuffed cotton Santa; 32 im. long; $5.29 You select gloves with nice appreciation for their quality, the occasion, your costume. You will find Mohawk Gloves that are in excellent taste to wear with a tailored suit, a coat dress, a favorite frock. _Uddddddddddattdddddddddddy In the variety of new designs, each with some fascinating individuality, and the wide range of the season’s smart colors, there are always perfect fit and fastidious finish. You buy Mohawk with full assurance that you are purchasing merchandise of the highest char- acter. Prices are moderate. Ask about Mohawk hosiery and glove-silk underwear. Sold at the better stores. “oiddenumunudnmamnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn UMMM MOHAWK GLOVE CORPORATION 267 Fifth Avenue, New York City ohawh GLOVES MME SS OOOO Bradley and Merrill (544) Imported toys in brilliant colours, tied to cakes of chocolate, are decorative and diverting trifles for the Christmas dinner-table. In the form of quaint birds. baskets, windmills, pagodas, and so on, they are $4.15 for 6 mW

Page 121

gay sket red VeT- | Uae Luts, ped per; December 1 ELIZABETH ARDEN STF pists gift of Christmas could be more welcome? Youth, freshness, radiant huggable pink-and-whiteness! Oh, Elizabeth Arden knows the hearts of women and knows what gifts will please them most! Elizabeth Arden suggests that you send your favorite hostess a dewy coarsage, with an enchanting Compact tucked in with the posies. For this politic purpose, Elizabeth Arden has made her smart Double O-Boy Compact, which is pictured here. It has a wafer-thin case, prettily chased. It contains generous powder and just enough rouge, in combinations for Blonde, Me- dium or Brunette. Big mirror, two puffs. $2.50. For your favorite sister-in-law, or someone whom you must propitiate with a magnificent offering, Elizabeth Arden suggests one of her treasured Beauty Boxes. These are rosy pink boxes of lacquered metal, compart- mented to contain all the important Venetian Toilet Preparations for the correct regular care of the skin. The Beauty Boxes are a joy to own, to have on your dressing table, to take upon your travels and visits. The largest box, Bon Voyage, is $35. The Boxdoir Box is $18. The Bijou Box, pictured here, is $14. A Week- End Box, to tuck into an overnight bag, is $3.85. A princess-like leather case, fitted with mirror and flying trays, and containing 22 Preparations, is $60. For your school-mate, or your school-mate’s wife, Elizabeth Arden offers her exquisite Poudre d’I/lusion.. This powder of superb quality is packed in a Satin- lined box that makes it particularly charming for a gift of trifling cost. A natural peach-like tint, $3. For nieces and neighbors and others that must be re- membered, there are: Venetian Carino Compact, a little case of polished gold, suitable for monogramming. Rouge or Powder, mir- ror and puff, $1.25. Venetian Indelible Lip Pencil, smart, natural, pure, in- delible. In a slender gold pencil-holder with ring attached, $2. Venetian Petite Compact, a tiny hammered gold case, very.flat. Rouge or Powder, $.75. The Arden Venetian Preparations and chic Babani Perfumes are on sale at the Elizabeth Arden Salons and also at 700 smart shops all over the world LONDON: 25 OLD BOND STREET BOSTON: 192 BOYLSTON ST. ATLANTIC CITY: RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL Leaf CKO NA VERYONE who is feminine—be she eight or eighty—will love the gift of Babani’s Perfume. Perfume is so enchantingly frivo- lous, yet so important—a perfect gift to receive at Christmas. fol OXO WF Elizabeth Arden discovered Babani and his smart elusive perfumes in Paris, and she has brought them to America for her patrons. Now wherever distinguished women are assembled, one recognizes the piquant odor of Babani’s Ming, thealluring fragrance of Jasmin, the languor of Ligeia, always a Babani Perfume. Babani—the discerning Frenchman—has recognized how changing are the moods of a woman. And he has made a sympathetic perfume for every new phase of your personality. Ina smart tailleur, ina chic dance frock, in a luxurious negligee, you are three individ- ualities. And foreach one you needa fitting fragrance, a fragrance by Babani. Lal CX TD". To help you in suiting your perfume gift to the fair lady who will receive it, Babani has written these colorful word - pictures of his enchanting perfumes: Lot YO WI. AMBRE DE DELHI Mystery, enchantment . . . $2.75 7.00 9.00 9.50 LIGEIA Romantic, luxurious. ... 2.75 7.00 9.50 12.00 q YASMAK (q For the exotic blonde ... 2.757.00 9.50 12.00 MING G Elfin, playful sweetness .. 2.75 6.50 9.00 9.50 ( AFGHANI Colorful, riotous, untamed 2.75 7.00 9.00 9.50 4 JASMIN DE COREE Provocative,a challenge. . 2.75 6.50 8.50 and the new SOUSOUKI Anappealing wistful softness 2.75 6.50 9.00 12.00 In decorative bottles, and treasured in lovely and novel boxes Pel COVE (Or Postage paid on mail orders exceeding $10 ELIZABETH ARDEN 673-B FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK PARIS: 2 RUE DE LA PAIX SAN FRANCISCO: 233 GRANT AVE. WASHINGTON: 1147 CONNECTICUT AVE. DETROIT: 318 BOOK BUILDING

Page 122

Since 1777 or Ld pp UMMLIIJ00101107 Favours on chocolate squares | , may be had by the half-dozen: (548) Christmas trees; $175. GAY TOY FAVOURS FOR (549) Music-boxes; $3.25. (550) Celluloid Santa Claus; 7 in.; $6.25, (551) Santa; 3 in.; $385. (552) Reindeer; $3.25. (553) Santa on box; THE CHRISTMAS DINNER $3.85 & ‘Sy Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shopping. Forin- structions, see page 82 WON goods = Y e 3] (Left) Table ornaments on cakes of chocolate. (554) Christmas tree 8 in. high, with miniature trimmings; $6.25 for 6. (555) Bisque doll dressed in pink ribbon and clasping a tiny tree in a glass pot; $3.75 Yes, royal hands were fp, eae | the 18th Centur Rig), drain ff y canisters of excellent blends of tea and i : coffee flank a pint —and thereafter, in more than one country. But bottle of prepared : : . : liquid coffee. (556) the fact is of less interest to an American miss Poand tie of bates: is wes 95 cents. (557) or matron than the exquisite precision of fit, the iMikenel it dee $1.15. (558) Pint of liquid coffee; 55 cents richness and delicacy of shade and texture, the | authenticity of style and comfortable assurance of good value, which may be secured so easily today | byasking for Fownes Gloves. F errr“ WOO WN SES | , EER | \ The name is invariably stamped inside the gen- | uine. Look for it as a dependable guide to fine | gloves at fair prices. (Left) (559) A very beautiful gift box of painted enamel, decorated with vio- let satin ribbon, paper lace, and pink candy rosebuds, con- tains candies, salted nuts, and jars of jam and __ jelly; $30.50 It’s a fownes —that’s all you need toknow about a glove eS Bradley and Merrill

Page 123

* A, A) “aS "4 mT ece (At Oooo Superlative Gift Boxes by L to make this, Mademoiselle, a very Merry Christmas May we suggest, Mademoiselle, that the artificiality of perfumery be supplanted this Christmas with the living fragrance of living flowers? VIVANTE Contrast, if you will, the enchantment of Venetian moonlight with the drollity of mid-day: a kiss from the fingers’ tips with a touch of the lips, the staid- ness of maturity with the enticement of Youth;— —then you will realize it—this fragrance of life— divine, enchanting, that is sweeping the world like a happy bon mot! It is an adventure; a thrill—a subtlety superlative! Special Christmas Boxes Now on Display at Your Local Shops —the most entrancing of packages, combining various articles de toilette —prices as low as two dollars and seventy-five cents. It is a delight, this package; poudre, rouge, toilet water, a powder com- pact, talc, daintiest soap! OURNAY Toilet . water, poudre, rouge and talc vante in this 4 gift package. j Here one has: talc in a glass container, pou- dre and toilet water, soap of unusual fine- ness, anda dainty powder compact. :

Page 124

OU get into and out of the Jordan Four Door Brougham with none of the discomfort and inconvenience of crawling over someone in the front seat—a disadvantage necessarily present in every two door Brougham. This new Jordan Brougham has all of the advantages of a compact, light weight, intimate car with all the capacity and comfort of the Sedan. Owners tell us that this is the enclosed type of the future. Cleveland’. — Ohio-

Page 125

December 1 113

<x my S ? RL RRA AAR ANA RARANARNAR AAAI {I | i j i | TRIANON Wroughi A Design rom that will live Solid Silver forever

To the Woman Who Entertains ONSIDER your next dinner. The dining-room a study in harmonious fur- nishing. Linens, glassware and china,— all the finest. Every detail perfect, except—what of the silverware? Will it, too, be completely correct? Will it fit in its setting? Will it be—solid silver? It is infinitely worth-while to develop your table-service in the Trianon Design in International Sterling. You will then have a design ever-beautiful, in a service ever-correct, in solid silver ever-enduring. Consult with your jeweler about developing a Trianon service. Or write for the book which shows it in complete, correct form. Address Dept. 154, International Silver Co., Meriden, Conn. ; Trianon is stamped cscD G3 Gz=za which identifies the genuine | INTERNATIONAL STERLING asterpieces of the (lassics

Taal

Page 126

Underwear So Ox G0 Se 77 ; Pa

a > DoS Dod La ™ > og a > > eg La

> ° I°S °¢ > o> ) eg

CHRISTMAS GIFTS OF

S bo > SoS DoS “ SS S

:

In Siniple Fairness to All Who _Appreciate Smart Hosiery (Left) These slipper buckles are. of rhinestone O one appreciates Allen A Hosiery oP Sey tag ——AA } and siverite in various more than those who know that the A) forms.” (367) The tiny Z : 2 eS Stat, bird is 1% in. long; $4.25. smartness is matched with wearing ATMO (508) This new shape is <4. 0 LAGOA ) 134 in. high; $12.50. (569) qualities. Pare ZS) ¥ Another smart shape 1s ROTO 1% by 1% in.; $15.50 aS ©. Allen A Hosiery for men, women and children, for all occasions—in silk, lisle, ; wool, cotton—always of uniform grade, ; (Right) Rhinestones and p< 66) siverite also make these fine appearance and CESS buckles. (570) The ob- Gj, Be long one at the top is 1 AOR eae by 1% in. $20.50. (571) Style that Wears O76" @tZ The oval one is 1% by 2% : : 9 VAS in.; $25.50. . (572) The Ask for Allen A Hosiery of Pure Thread Silk of SOIC in; $25 : beautiful, even texture in all authoritative colors ‘ j oottom rigs $1 : 6 by 1%

Also Makers of llen A Underwear cee eee These stockings come in beige, nude, flesh, cinnamon, sun- for Men & Boys burnt, and black. (573) Sheer silk; cotton tops and feet; openwork clock; coral stripe at top prevents runs; in black only; $3.25. (574) Sheer silk; embroidered clocks; $5.25. (575) Sheer silk; openwork clocks; $675. (576) Sheer silk; openwork on instep; $775. (577) Sheer silk; French open- work clocks; $5.10. (578) Sheer silk; self-coloured fine stripe ef- fect; $6.75. (579) Sheer silk; shadow clock; in black only; $375 po( “a =

THE ALLEN A COMPANY, Kenosha, Wisconsin ©1923 The Allen A Company

2° ( <o

Page 127

Larls Fewels ae hina 3 DREICER »C® 560 fr if. i N\ Vew York

Page 128

MM MU QD GEG 1v "Bd P¥WW MMA T’]L_MEMEEEIEIEE_=" This hand-carved dressing-table set is ivory composition. (581) Mirror; $13. (582) Brush; $10. (583) Comb; $2.75. (584) Tray; $8.90. (585) Manicure set (4 pieces); $1075. (586) Large boxes; $6.05 each. (587) Small boxes; $2.40 each. (588) Button-hook; $1.95. (589) Shoe-horn; $2.50 7 7 Note Let Vogue do your TO Christmas shopping. For instructions, see page 82. These gifts . are so new that only (Retew) (591) Fone : tem du bonnet oblong approximate prices (not shown) to could be obtained match doilies; 10 by 16 in.; price, $4.25 SETS FOR THE GIFTS SURE BOUDOTIR PLEASE (Below) (590) Fond du bonnet doilies for dressing-table; 12 in. square; in_ either pattern; $375 each The Womanly Way to remove unwanted hair &ven if the modedid notdemand smooth under-arms, per- sonal daintiness would lead us to remove unwanted hair. Harsh depilatories should be avoided. Their chemical action is most injurious to the skin. Only with the razor can all the hair be removed swiftly and safely. Men face the problem of hair removal every day, and have never found any method to replace shaving. Shaving is simplicity itself, if the hair is properly soft- ened with mild, moist lather. Mennen Shaving Cream is the ideal preparation for this purpose. There is no free alkali in Mennen’s to redden or irritate LAQ’QQWQWQWNWW ° 0 Dl), woo’ ®6oOqOO!’A the cuticle. The famous formula was developed by skin y (Right) (592) y DF a. This attrac- (593) Mono- gram in gold (centre) specialists. Mennen-softened hair can be shaved closely and cleanly, leaving the skin soft, white and smooth. For Face and Shampoo Because Mennen Shaving Cream is milderthan any toiletsoap, many women employ it as a complexion cleanser. They find that the Boro-glycerine in Mennen’s stimulates and refreshes the facial tis- sues. Boro-glycerineisanexquisite emollient blended in the cream. Those who try Mennen’s for shampooing add new softness and lustre to the hair. Mennen lather aids in washing away dandruft tive set of mirror, comb, and brush is a detail of the toilet-set 1l- lustrated at the top of the page. The three pieces cost $25 for the toilet- set shown be- low must be ordered week in advance; 1% to 2% in.; 45 cents to $1.25, ac- cording to size Uj, J dad DL eeeeeedaddaaaaaaaaeeed WW and excess oil, making the hair fluffy and fine-textured. Mennen’s does not dry the scalp as so many shampooing preparations do. Your druggist sells Mennen Shaving Cream in boudoir size tubes at 35c or bathroom size at 50c. lf you prefer to try Mennen’s first at our expense, please send the coupon below. MISANES SHAVIN QW e ° SNNQQ\\\W.wwwF"-e f ee THE MENNEN COMPANY 345 Central Avenue, Newark, N. J. UdddddijddddddddddddddddaeddddddudddddddddCAQQOOOAAORAR. arg i, " P % Please send me without charge a trial tube of Mennen Shaving Cream. - as . tO a NnaeeeneANNNNNS S Tortoise-shell composition toilet-set in Du Barry pattern; (594) mirror; $975. (595) Brush; $7.25. (596) Comb; $1.60. (597) Powder-box; $325. (598) Clothes-brush; $4.25. (599) Buffer; $275. (600) Nail-file; $1.60. (601) Button-hook; $175. (602) Jewel-box; $6.25

Page 129

December 1 A === =z WNVUVOTVTARAUEV ATTACHE re WA! ne rrp: caper bce mage IN A AMBRE ANTIQUE —rugnance © fre perfumes of C OTY ae ROSE JACQUEMINOT ~ Sighs of ae Pr rae enig- incomparable expressions of a Hhousand roses — breathing of women matic allure, Patron ce do i a eo q : igitinndqeingian re odeur of the ae ty — are ye it a - MUGUET— bells of Lily sooman of. rid, hecurious, poised, € favour of women throughou of the Valley— perfume of youth Pon one hae the world. As exquisite gifs npn pre oa g gti they convey a tribute to loveli- inating fh latina of flow iy eccon- NESS AS delicately asa bouguet of flowers, but of unfading fragrance: constantly renewing the charm of a rare and understanding compliment. Address ‘‘Dept. V 12” for ‘THE ART OF PERFUMINO® a booklet sublly describing types of t women and thetr expressive perfumes —on request ee MG ae ae 714. Fifth Avenue, New York. CANADA — 55 MS Gill College Ave Montreal STYX ~ Gor women of enchanting pallor, dark-haired, mystical. ——— PARIS — Gayety, brilliance ~ for women exguisitely alive, joyous, JASMIN DE CORSE — Sragnance gf cbasive women, of romance and dreams CHYPRE — Expressing dark, oriental women, of swift, tempestuous emotions EMERAUDE — Soul of the Emerald in fragrance, inspiring, ever newt CYCLAMEN — deur of the exotic woman, red-haired, volatile AA aa MMMM COPYRIGHT 1923, BY COTY, INC.

Page 130

(605) Double-headed hat- (606) Collar and cuff set; pin; two crystal stones se- of fine linen effectively cured by rhinestones set in edged with 1%-inch Irish silver; $5.25 crochet lace; $5.25 * Note DELIGHTFUL CHARMING Let Vogue do your Christmas ACCESSORIES shopping. Forin- || REMEMBRANCES structions, see page 82 Further gifts are shown on pages 140 and 142 _ a ED o: GS-2 ess (607) Bracelet; of tiny enamelled Stones set in sterling silver with rhinestones. These are interspersed with rhinestones set in sterling Zi Ne : ey | ses Avi t oe" Woman OMEN love to give and receive intimate little gifts, SS but often the selection is a problem, for some women seem “to have everything.” This Christmas, however, the ideal gift is not har to find, for the new, modish, Daintymode Lingerie Supporteur answers every requirement. It takes the place of both lingerie clasps and shoulder straps. It is ly effective when worn un- covered, with the evening gown, for it harmonizes (608) Gilt atomizer; 23% inches high; (611) Vanity pursis of brocade: ¢ cov- with any fabric and looks lovely against the’ skin. | $5.25. (609) Handkerchief; day of the ered with pastel embroidery and edged Made in Gold, Sterling Silver, ahd Gold Filled, week inscribed in French..in..red or .. with. gilt. Large~mirror and. pockets with ornamental, stone-set, and enamel pins, Dainty- blue; set of seven, $8.25. (610) Hand- for- change’ and powder. on- one side; mode appeals as only the most dainty end attractive kerchief; in rose, ‘blue, green, oF ‘white on the other side, a pocket for. ciga- personal jewelry on.’ Led ts an eed ond com linen; white embroidery; $2.25 rettes; 3V% inches long; $5.25 venient, its wearers regard it asa practical necessity. At Jewelry Stores and the larger Department Stores If your dealer hasn’t the Daintymode, wtite us and we will see that you are supplied. B. A. BALLOU & CO., Ine. “Pins for Every Purpose”’ Brilliantly coloured, hand-hemmed linen handkerchiefs (left to right): (612) Pink and white; $1. (613) Green and white; $1.25. (614) Yellow and purple; 75 cents. (615) Pink and white; $1. (617) (Below) White, ~ purple -border, black and white-dots; $1.. (617).Green and henna; 75 cents. (618) White and blue; 75 cents. (619) Lavender, purple, and blue designs; $1

Page 131

UR December 1 119 ee ° + bs + 4 in. ——— EATON, CRANE & PIKE COMPANY, INc. , New York Pittsfield, Mass. A Gyft Suggestion 5 Thats Sure to Please ‘ ’ @ecenr cers There is no gift more acceptable than Cranes. Xinen oon No gift can be more useful. No gift can ex- press a finer compliment to the good taste and discrimination of the recipient or suggest. the giver’s appreciation of truly fine things. No gift has more of the Christmas appeal than - Crane’s Linen Lawn in its tasteful and artistic holiday boxes. A gift should be the finest object of its kind: The very finest stationery costs little, yet because Crane’s Linen Lawn in its wide variety of it is the finest, it ranks as a gift with presents beautiful holiday boxes, offers a splendid ‘ opportunity to select just “‘the write gift”’. far more costly. Murillo Geraldine

Page 132

Yur Hobday Desserts are reap Distant lands, as well as our own, con- tribute their best to make the name Heinz stand for the most delicious Mince Meat. Fragrant spices from the Orient, selected black, fruity currants from Greece, the world’s best candied fruits and raisins, America’s selected beef, choice suet and apples—all cooked, blended and seasoned by skilled cooks in the Heinz Kitchens. Perfect Mince Meat! Jn glass jars and tins. HEINZ Plum Pudding The ingredients are as perfect as the recipe, and the skill in iy rene is “4 result of long experience. If you alr know it, this will remind you of its moe f ness. If you have never tried it, there is a treatjin store for you. HEINZ Fig Pudding This pudding is so light, wholesome and digestible that the children and those with delicate appetites can have ‘more’ —it won't hurt them. You taste the figs in every morsel. A.lways use with it the special sauce, originated by our experts, recipe for which comes on every can. M. COMPANY WW MMMM MUUOVIDDD RANA A sled (left) of red crépe paper, driven by a Christmas fairy fashioned of white crépe paper with red gauze and tiny bells, takes the utilitarian edge off the practical gift which may be attached to it. A similar gift may be concealed in the box (right) with its tree of green crépe paper OUTER SIGNS OF IFTS, from time immemorial, have been the symbol of love and friendship or of barter and treachery. But, from the time of that first fatal gift in Paradise—the apple in its gaudy covering—, all ages have enhanced, or conceale J, their gifts by wrapping them in the materials of the time. The prehistoric gift was wrapped in rude coverings of skin, the Oriental INNER THOUGHT medieval ring concealed poison within its golden. curve, and the Victorian lover’s jewel was naively hidden among the flowers which he tenderly presented to his inamorata. So we, with the inherent instinct of ages to prompt us, should betake our- selves to the nearest stationer’s and buy a supply of gold and silver papers, of tissue-papers in all colours, of plain .gift wore a priceless covering, the (Continued on page 122) (Left) There is no one who will not find very useful the articles contained in this box; they are: glue, tags, ring tags, gummed labels, gummed mend- ing tissue, clips, and elastic bands DECORATIVE WRAPPINGS FROM DENNISON = ae i SS SW WWW 110 vv °”Pe—owm®=nnWWW11G . °° \ J Sheets of gold and silver paper come to wrap the packages which may be fastened with Christmas seals or with gummed paper ribbon, marked with Christmas tags, and sent with Christmas greeting cards—all of which are pictured above, done up in rolls or neatly packed in boxes

Page 133

December l Individual i Ag, Yee'of SA Salad Fork ND cit Séeof Six id . (29 "A * ¢ y atic (ay! Dinner F : Nei s A KO | *% ok ‘ i Net Of See bs 7 Za ‘ ‘ & . * ee r What Happier Gift—of Joy Twofold ? VING “CoMMUNITY” seems almost selfish at times—there is nearly as mug pleasure in giving as in receiving. d what a discerning tribute to her ideals of dainty table service. ‘She knows—every woman knows—Community Plate; its designs, its quality, the position it holds with the most distinguished families of America and Engla: Among the patrons of Community Plate may be mentioned Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont, Marchioness of Dufferin, Mrs. Oliver Harriman, Duchess of Rutland and Princess Margrethe of Denmark Teaspoons $3.75: Set-of Six ates Se eee war en ep eb Your domes ONEFPDA -COMMUNIF® MADE [ridividual > > Bytrecay Spreader q

Page 134

OTHING could be more appro- priate for Christmas, or more permanently beautiful and useful in table decoration, than either the Eden or Paradise patterns—both have added tremendously to the prestige of ~~ re Haviland FRANCE A quaint, original Pilgrim shape and a colorful Oriental motif Rich in design, with a center of brilliantly plumaged birds of paradise in harmony with bright-colored flowers —these pat- terns are identical save that the Eden has a cream-yellow border, and the Paradise a soft blue. We suggest your interest for Christmas —a gift that combines the pleasure and satisfaction of a correct china service for a lifetime. Theodore’ Haviland China is hard in. body and of unexampled durability— with such a glaze as was never before seen on French China—deep and brilliant and creamy white. . Theodore Haviland China*may be pur- chased from any dealer in fine china, or a dealer will obtain for you prices and any information you desire. Not so expensive as its quality might suggest. THEODORE HAVILAND & CO. INCORPORATED New York CANADIAN OFFICE: TORONTO A Ldddddddaddadiddicccccccaeccccccccd . CMO CL cedeedeeeccecccccccctrreceteesccc07..”zAnaDaE A great part of the enjoyment of Christmas is in devising new wrappings which will give pleasure to the recipient. Suggestions are made in the boxes illustrated, which are wrapped in tissue or printed crépe paper, tied with ribbons, and sealed with bright stickers and crépe paper wreaths OUTER SIGNS OF INNER THOUGHT (Continued from page 120) and printed crépe papers, and, lastly, but not least important, plain paper and string so that we shall not be at a loss for wrappings to conceal our joyously wrapped gift from the critical eye of the post-office department. Tinsel rib- bons, Dresden ribbons, satin and bro- cade ribbons, and always gold and silver and red and green ribbons should be bought. A carelessly wrapped gift clearly shows that’ the giver puts no value on the gift and has neither care nor courtesy for the recipient. Blue and rose tissue-papers, with the ends folded back to show the contrast- ing colours, make an attractive ensem- ble when tied with orchid satin ribbon. Jade and lavender papers, tied with magenta ribbon, with a sprig of holly, mistletoe, or pine intertwined, bespeak the feminine gift. Gifts wrapped in silver paper and tied with gold tinsel ribbon, or wrapped in gold paper with silver ribbon, with a small sprig of pine covered with tiny cones stuck through the knot, echo the Bradley and Merrill glitter and beauty of the snow- and frost-covered world outside. Crépe papers, sprigged with holly or poinsettia and fastened with gummed paper ribbons, or crépe paper in solid colours. with gaily printed paper rib- bons, conceal the pipe, socks, ties, or books for our modern Santa Claus. Bright red papers, fastened with pic- tured stickers or tied with gay cords to the ends of which are attached small favours or toys, will delight youthful hearts. Boxes on which are fastened miniature Christmas trees or fairies standing on boxes or seated on sleds, may conceal a useful gift for some small person. Papers, after being displayed and handled, lose their freshness, the stock of attractive colours diminishes, ribbons in holiday colours and the more popular tones are rapidly sold out, so, unless you desire to feel as did Old Mother Hubbard’s dog, shop as early as possible for your wrappings. These examples are usually available in local shops. WHER MOMMA Fo"—°7éN Further suggestions for the attractive preparation of Christmas gifts | are. given in the boxes photographed. They are wrapped in crépe papers, tied with tinsel and plain ribbons, and sealed with holiday stickers. A bill-fold to hold a practical gift is shown in the fore- ground and is decorated with a holly design

Page 135

December 1 In illustration: the Taper Twist, one of the newest and most beautiful Atlantic Candles. 123 “CANDLE GLOW” is an authori- tative and interesting booklet on candle styles, lighting and decora- — tion. May we mail you a copy? A post-card request brings it. — The w that are correct—thc Decorating authorities all agree that the appointments of the well-ordered living-room, dining- room, library, boudoir or recep- tion hall of to-day must include— CANDLES. Tradition suggests them, Fash- ion prescribes them, Good Taste demands them. And Good Judg- ment says, use Atlantic Candles. Then you’ll be sure to get candles latest creations of the authoritative designer’s cll-appointed home art. There’s a shape, size and color for every lighting or decora- tive scheme. Choose Atlantic Candles for their quality, too. The Atlantic label on box or candle is assur- ance that materials are pure and craftsmanship the finest. Atlantic Candles burn down evenly in dripless “cup” form. Odorless, smokeless and flickerless. Buy them wherever decora- tive furnishings, gifts or art wares are sold. FOR CHRIST MAS—burn Atlantic Bayberry Candles. They’re hand-dipped, have the real bayberry scent, and “burn to the socket,” as the legend says they must to work their fanciful charm. THE ATLANTIC REFINING COMPANY, PHILADELPHIA ATLANTIC’*“CANDLES

Page 136

In the Christmas Spirit of Old New England The “Haverhill” — a Berkey & Gay Living Room Group These delightful pieces hark back to the warmth, the hospitality, and the cheeriness of huge logs blazing in the open fireplaces of old Colonial homes at Yuletide. As Christmas gifts for your home—or for the home of some friend—what could better express the spirit of thoughtful giving! The “Haverhill” pieces are on display this month at your Berkey & Gay Merchant’s. See them —and mark the distinguished quality, with prices as low as true economy will permit. To these reasonable prices your merchant will add freight charges. Walnut Wing Chair—$110 The Wing Chair, or “Squire’s Chair” is of American Walnut—a wood in spirit with the design. The tall, stately back lends to the room a necessary impression of height. By the graceful shaping of the arms and fine proportions of the wings, the heaviness of the old models has been eliminated, yet all the comfort and roominess has been retained. Inside and cushions are covered with a specially woven, figured tapestry—the outside and back in a plain tone. “Resthaven” upholstery specifi- cations insure lasting service. Foot Stool—$10 The Stool, or Cricket, is aiso in walnut, covered with the same figured tapestry. Its use affords added relaxa- tion and snug comfort. Mahogany Living Room Table—$90 Fashioned of all mahogany, in a rich, deep brown finish, the Table reflects a period of American history when early Empire designs were influencing such furni- ture craftsmen as Duncan Phyfe. Of wide adaptabil- ity—it is narrow enough to go between a sofa and wall— and of distinguished proportions, it lends itself to any decorative scheme. Our brochure describing the “‘ Haverhill” pieces, together with name of nearest Berkey &§ Gay Merchant, sent upon request Berkey & Gay FurNITURE CoMmMPANY 450 MONROE AVENUE, GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN Berkey & Gay This shop-mark is inset in every Berkey & Gay pro- duction. It is the custom- er’s protection when buy- ing and his pride ever after New York Wholesale Showroom: 116 West 40th Street (Admittance by letter from your merchant or decorator) rAIRBN 1 TURE PARIS CONVINCINGLY COATS ARE SMART BECHOFF (Right) Shaded sou- tache in brown col- ourings covers the entire surface of a three-quarter coat of putty velveteen trimmed with skunk YVONNE DAVIDSON A new satin fulgurante, or wood- trimmed with “ta- gouan,” a flying squirrel fur dyed brown to match, makes a luxu- fibre — silk, rious ensemble VOGUE DEMONSTRATES THAT IN ANY LENGTH BECHOFF (Left) The dress worn beneath the coat combines brown velveteen and gold lamé and is trim- med with gold and brown — embroidery BERTHE HERMANCE (Left) Chinese em- broidery in dull colours, a favourite trimming of the season, covers a plain coat-dress of the heaviest black silk crépe JOSEPH PAQUIN (Right) A tailleur of a figured beige woollen material edged with Hudson seal follows a favourite new note by having jacket and skirt in one line ee — LINKER Fur linings are important this winter. Here, black velours de laine is lined and trimmed with civet. The removable cape-back brown tones 1s buttoned to the _ sleeves

Page 137

GUE “2 bo mm December 1 7 dress L the brown ~ gold trim- 1 and ndery LL your other cherished possessions are expressive of your personal tastes. Why should your motor car be merely one of a million? The Wills Sainte Claire is produced in a wide variety of color combinations and decorative schemes, affording excep- tional opportunity for the gratifying of individual preferences. Your Wills Sainte Claire can be your car—expressive of your own personality—in harmony with your own tastes. And at the same time, always, there will be that satisfying sense of pride and contentment that comes from the posses’ sion of America’s finest motor car. Illustrated folder. will be mailed upon request WILLS SAINTE CLAIRE, Inc. MARYSVILLE, MICHIGAN WILLS SAINTE CLAIRE © W.S.C, INC,

Page 138

GIFTS of. ees se A pleasing and sbbieitile gift is a cherished reminder of a friend who cares —and a friendship that should grow firmer with each passing year. The very first requisite of one’s toilette is a fresh handkerchief of soft linen. Have you considered a gift package of half a dozen fine linen hand- kerchiefs for Christmas? Women's Pure Linen Handkerchiefs with Hand Embroidered Corners. A Special Christmas value, soc. each Men's Handkerchiefs of Fine Quality Linen, with initial corners, $1.00 each The Gift of Household Linen Guest Towels em- bellished by very fine Spanish cut- work, offered in This 13-piece set of pure Linen priced at $9.00-— four beautiful de- remarkably _ rea- : f , sonable for such ‘ signs (feature { below). Size 15 x splendid quality. £4. tilies, Bi.90 each. At left —Lun- cheon Napkins of fine Italian Linen in several very attractive designs, 14X14 inches. Specially priced, $13.00 dozen. Your mail orders will be given prompt.and careful attention Send for illustrated catalogue No. 72 1)! Gibbon 6 C2 3 West 37th Street--New York NEAR FIFTH AVENUE VOGUE THE SMART COATS OF THE WINTER SHOW GREAT VARIETY IN LINE AND iN FABRIC CLAIRE A voluminous wrap of téte de négre velveteen is lavishly, but at- tractively, banded with beaver fur JEAN GALOT Light brown furs frequently lighten black coats, like this one of broad- cloth embroidered with black sou- tache and collared with beaver LINKER For the country, a woolly mate- rial called “Teddy bear” is effec tively combined with wool jersey 4 coat of Rodier’s marokellaine in beige colour abandons fur in favour of a figured beige woollen fabric for the collar and cuffs

Page 139

‘UR December 1 The Welte-Mignon* brings such masters as these into your home— D’ Albert Busoni Carreno Conradi De Horvath De Pachmann Dohnanyi Gabrilowitsch Ganz Grieg Lamond Leschetizky Heniot Levy Lhevinne Mero Netzorg Oswald Paderewski Saint-Saens Samaroff Scharwenka Schelling Scionti Tollefsen Bloom field-Zeisler A Reproducing Piano on These are the Phantom Hands of a thousand immortal pianists; their glori- ous genius preserved forever, through the miracle of Welte-Mignon reproduction. ais eiaiaia - OS @ LITT Se; O Christmas Eve and All the Year THE tree is dressed and the stock- ings filled. As you rest dreamily by the fire, the fascinating strain of Paderewski’s “Menuet” comes to you with an exquisite tone-modeling that holds you spellbound. “Who,” you ask, “can play with such tenderness —such triumphant joy and dynamic rapture? It might be Paderewski himself!” And the reply comes, “ It is Paderewski.” You may have the music of the world interpreted by the great artists of the piano in your own home at Christ- mastide and throughout the year, if you have a reproducing piano equipped with the Welte-Mignon.* At will, you may call not only Pad- erewski, but Hofmann, Grieg, Busoni, and scores of other famous pianists. The Welte-Mignon* reproduces their actual playing as if they themselves were seated arte the keyboard of the piano. Hearing the Welte-Mignon* is the only way its artistic value can be appreciated and judged. There is a nearby dealer who will be pleased to demonstrate its masterful accomplish- ments. Visit him today, or let us send you an interesting brochure. Write to the Auto Pneumatic Action Co., 653 West 51st Street, New York. (Celte-(Dignon. (Licensee) Hear it—in comparison. here's a nearby dealer *This modernized Welte-Mignon is LICENSED under the original Welte patents of} The Welte-Mignon* is an electrically impelled mechanism, which when built into a piano, either upright or grand, plays the instru- ment in exactly the same way that some talented musician played when he made the master record. It is practically invisible and does not interfere with manual playing. It is obtainable in nearly every prominent make of piano, a few of which are listed below: Ivers & Pond Kranich & Bach Adam Schaaf Stieff Krakauer Mehlin & Sons Sohmer Vose In Canada—The Mason and Risch (Exclusively) Bush & Lane Acoustigrande Hardman Ye Baldwin

Page 140

128 | Haviland China | Haviland China Co. Inc in slightly reduced size ADM es: all aa ce ee eee NE of the many charming open stock patterns on view where Haviland China is sold is fea- tured here: A formal Cashmere border relieved by flower tendrils—an oriental symphony of blues, yellows and reds. Since 1837 our china has enjoyed an enviable reputation. In purchasing be sure to notice carefully the Trade Marks. ercorareo av eNilan XN (Of tc, France Lumoges Unless these Trade Marks appear on cach piece, you will not be getting the Genuine Haviland China Manufactured at Limoges, France Haviland China may be found in wide variety at all first class China and Department stores. Write for name of nearest dealer if you have any difficulty locating one. 11 East 36th Street, New York VOGUE ONE TOUCH OF EMBROIDERY MAKES NEW AFTERNOON FROCKS KIN FRIED A tunic in back of the skirt distin- guishes a gown of rust coloured crépe marocain trimmed with silk and a@ jour embroidery CYBER An Oriental trend in drapery is the distinctive note of a simple frock of bright red crépe de Chine YVONNE DAVIDSON The slender sheath of the front im a gown of flame col- oured crépe satin 1s charmingly outlined against the irregular drapery of the back JOSEPH PAQUIN The continued smart- ness of the gathered apron in front 1s evident im a navy blue moire gown edged with a jour embroidery CLAIRE An overdress of beige crépe is placed over a slip covered with beige embroidery in leaf designs

Page 141

This mark am **Sterling’’ your guarantee °, Solid Silver imprinted on every piece | ‘The True Spirit of Giving | ‘Today Lies in = SOLID SILVER \© It is the inherent fineness of Solid Silver — pre- cious through the ages — that conveys the true spirit of Christmas, Let it be your gift this year. N ATCH UP her present silver with the pieces she needs. Or give her a few pieces of a standard Towle pattern that.can be added to until her Christmas table will some day show the full beauty and harmony of a complete set of Solid Silver. ~ ss ; . 7 =, inted on Then you have given something time cannot alter nor ; Bory niece a % fashion change, for Towle designs come only in Solid Silver and are stamped “STERLING” which means, unlike plated ware, Solid Silver all the way through. Other well known standard patterns made by Towle are : — THE LA FAYETTE THE COLONIAL THE PAUL REVERE THE VIRGINIA LEE THE NEWBURY Ask your jeweler for Towle designs in Solid Silver Table Ware, ‘Tea Sets and Decorative Silver Booklet No. 421 on request. Three pieces : _ Virginia Carvel from the Tea Set Mary Chilton cooe@== ceoaqm™ceo thf fj ff} —_-} ) ) MM The Lady Constance (pe ff men in § olid Sil for 0) Hi alfa (e The Virginia Carvel NEWBURYPORT MASSACHUSETTS soba 0095990 a0 9599 tr . 000 000005 ee ALLL LA ee cee cL

Page 142

pion R205 ©1923 SY THE GENESEE PURE FOOD COMPANY

Page 143

Page 144

Page 145

7 'December 1 Quality Gift A gift of Heirloom Plate is one that will last. Its high quality permits the makers to guarantee it for one hundred years. Lovely to behold, Heirloom Plate is a silverware every woman is anxious to own. Herearea few of the many pleasing suggestions to be found at your jeweler’s. Each in a velvet-lined gift box. Sugar Shell . . . . $1.25 6Coffee Spoons . . $3.75 Butter Knife . . 1.40 6 Five O'Clock Teas . 4.00 Jelly Server. . . . 1-95 6 Berry Forks . . . 4.25 Sugar Tongs. . . . 1.90 6Ice Cream Spoons . 35.00 Cream Ladle . . . 200 6Orange Spoons . . 5.25 Cold Meat Fork... . 2.00 6Ice Cream Forks. . 45.75 Jelly Spoon. . . 2.2 6Iced Tea Spoons. . 6.25 Butter and Sugar Set . 2.50 6 Bouillon Spoons. . 6.75 Gravy Ladle. . . . 250 6Salad Forks . . . 680 Berry Spoon. . . . 3.00 6Pie Forks . . . . 8.00 Pie Knife. . . . . 3.50 6 Fruit Knives . . . 10.00 Write for illustrated literature and names of Heirloom Plate dealers nearest ‘you. Ww. A. Rocers, Lrp., Nracara Fa tts, N. Y. New York Chicago San Francisco Toronto Grom Generation to Generation Al oF le An assortment of 26 useful pieces, in hand- some grey velvet lined gee... .$3323 DA, : . ) In leatherette gift case, 41.25 Zim wD oe WG F y ‘ In solid mahogany gift of{|lp / eyes s! -« SD heh at Crm) OY G VO ONy WOO Ne ra

Page 146

A Fur That Contributes A New Tone To The Vogue For “Brown FitcH —brilliant, golden tones peeping from whder deep, lustrous — black —a pleasing variation from the more regular shades so popular now! This stunning color harmony adds greatly to the charm and nov- elty of the Coat or Wrap and is employed very effectively in many of the newest Creations of Gunther designers. | A Christmas gift of this unusual fur is sure to be appreciated for its refreshing beauty and its decidedly striking style development. Ermine (aracul Chinchilla Broadtail Gunther Russian Sable Fifth Avenue at 36" Street. NEW YORK Furriers For More Than a Century ee ee eee eee ee ee ee ee LT LAREN RR SES SSSI NGI RSS RSC Rg oe RRStncneceoooe ee. seaneesapRNoR Cee stanmsESte aE MARR VOGUE THE EVENING MODE IS FUR-TRIMMED AND SHOWS THE BRIGHT SIDE OF ITS FABRICS SH \ \\ Wg BECHOFF Here and there, this season, one sees whole foxes used for trim- ming, as in this wrap of blue and gold brocade CYBER This afternoon frock is of crépe satin which has a bright and a dull side. The lustrous side has fine silk embroidery in beige and rust colour BERTHE HERMANCE Rather Greek in influ- ence is a crépe satin gown with side drapery and a girdle of em- broidered _ leaves CLAIRE The skirt of a lovely gown of pink and silver brocade is arranged in spiral bands. A tuft of feathers is placed at the low waist-line JEAN GALOT A trace of the 1880 sil- houette remains in the sash of a crépe gown embrot- dered in copper shades and banded with brown fur

Page 147

December I 131

SORE af es

In constant use at BURNHAM’S sold the world over Burnham Cucumber Cream

—a liquid cleansing cream—the first essential in all professional beauty treatments. Price $.60 and $1.20 Burnham Skin Rejuvenator —a skin food used eames by graduate beauty specialists . . o « » emcee Si.2 Burnham Restos Creme

—a superior cold cream and skin emollient. Price $.60 Burnham Aromatic Astringent

—tones and exhilirates—an essential which too many women overloo - Price $1.20 Burnham Jacque Rose Petals —a cold cream rouge for lips and cheeks. In tubes $.60 Burnham Poudrozone Face Powder

—an invisible yet highly adhesive powder. Price $1.20 ssentials S hin Mealek

Jacial Sea uty F you have ever visited BURNHAM'’S on State Street, Chicago—the world’s largest beauty establishment— and have experienced the superb relaxation of an hour in the facial chair under the spell of the soothing touch of expert operators you need no further introduction to Burnham preparations. “In constant use at BURNHAM'’S” may well be regarded as the highest endorsement any toilet preparation can attain. It is indisputable proof of demonstrated merit. Only Burnham preparations carry such a professional endorsement. They were all formulated for professional use in Beauty Culture, and all are in constant use at BURNHAM'S and by thousands of graduate beauty spe- cialists, Hundreds of thousands of women have learned that the solution to most beauty problems lies in using Burnham preparations and Burnham methods. After 52 years of leadership Burnham’s is still the authority. And here is Burnham's positive statement regarding cosmetics:— ‘“‘There are six toilet preparations essential to skin health and facial beauty—a cleansing cream, a skin food, a cold cream, an astringent, a face powder, and a touch of rouge. “These six preparations should be selected with scrupulous care. They constitute the “Home Treatment.” “To be beneficial they should all be made by the same chemist who has so prepared them that each will supple- ment and harmonize with all the others.”

ey No one who values her complexion should be without 3 ; any of the Burnham Home Treatment preparations. Each (ay . : is designed for a distinct purpose and all are essential. Above all choose your cleanser and your skin food wisely BURNHAM CUCUMBER CREAM Thoroughiy cleanses the skin. Removes foreign matter from the pores after all other cleansers have done their utmost. It softens, whitens and nour- ishes the skin and keeps it pure and brilliant. Entirely different from any other cream. It has no equal. Its effects are most remarkable. Burnham Cucumber Cream should be the first safeguard against all imperfections of complexion. Price 60c and $1.20 BURNHAM SKIN REJUVENATOR A skin food and tissue builder. Produces a marked and constant improvement in any com- plexion. The results of its use are apparent im- mediately. Should be used regularly before retir- ing. No matter how youthful or beautiful your complexion may be Burnham Skin Rejuvenator is an absolute essential. Price $1.20 At Department Stores, Drug Stores and Beauty Shops BURNHAM TOMUET RIEOQUISITIES If your dealer cannot supply you write direct to our Professional Dept.,138 N. State St.,Chicago tf | 5 = NewYork EY. BURNHAM IN. Cutcaco C3) ESTABLISHED 1871 Manufacturers of the Complete Line of Professionally oY lemonstrated Beauty preparations Operators of ““Burnham’s” i

Page 148

132 The Ideal Gift | ISEEN ON THE VOGUE STAGR (Continued from page 76) spere lit with a little of his immortal verse; to a turbid drama by Pirandello called “Floriani’s Wife,” in which a fallen wife, whom her daughter believes is dead, comes back to live with her husband for the second time and reap the hatred which is a stepmother’s por- tion; to a tepid, earnest piece by Gals- | worthy called “Windows,” a self-con- scious compound of thesis and irony; and to an unsympathetic sugaring of Casanova, the greatest lover of them all, in a Hungarian play which is neither strong nor smart. Strange fare, most of it, ill-flavoured or ill-favoured, but the theatre can serve it up and let us pick a titbit here and there. All things are actable. Genius and order make them great. “LAUNZI” Ferenc Molnar has something close to genius, and he has a certain sense of organization which is both theatrical and free. He feels sensitively this modern life of ours and its eternal human materials. He understands the theatre well enough to be able to make | good, fashionable drama of the Pinero | type, if he chose. Fortunately, he prefers a free technique that allows spiritual qualities, imaginative interpre- tations, to come freely forth. “Liliom” was the prime example. Pinero, of course, would have turned up his well- bred nose at Molnar’s Budapest “bum.” The Hauptmann who wrote “The Rats” and “The Weavers” would have made a sober, minute, and dully exact portrait | of him. Molnar, with his vivid, half- Imported Cape of the exceptionally rare SILVER BLUE MONKEY, combined with Flying Squirrel. Price $1350. eA this season recurs that ever puzzling question— “What shall I give Her?” What can be safer or more sure to please than THE GIFT OF FUR? In buying Furs with the A-JEK-L label you may be sure of definite style author- ity, highest quality and unsurpassed work- manship, and with this assurance you may add that of price security; prices as low as Furs can be secured for anywhere, where good Furs are sold. “It pays to buy where you buy in safety” A.JAECKEL & CO. Jurriers Gxclusively Fifth Ave Between 35%& 36% Sts. New York Oriental flare, gave Liliom’s character and Liliom’s story in sharp accents and then plunged the whole play into a fantastic police-court heaven and back to earth again simply to make his final point on Liliom’s love as he could not make it in naturalistic fashion. The other plays by Molnar known to the American stage, “The Phantom Rival,” “The Life Guardsman” (called “Where Ignorance Is Bliss”), “The Devil,” and “Fashions for Men,” display less clear- ly the playwright’s fine, original talent, yet they are all of them apart from and above the narrow limits of our realistic drama. “Launzi,” a postwar play, finds Mol- nar working with more or less natural materials—people engaged in the in- trigues and tragedies of unruly and un- satisfied passions. Nothing occurs in the play that might not occur in life. Yet, Molnar does not stoop to the slightest attempt at that fidelity to the humdrum, the obvious, and the trivial which makes our self-conscious and in- artistic realism. He doesn’t really care whether the thing seems plausible, so long as it seems moving. Certainly, the materials are unusual enough to an American audience, and the treatment is freshness itself, even to the European playgoer who has fed on Wedekind. The primary situation might be conceived by any neurological playwright of Central Europe. A vital, restless woman in the late thirties has left her older, devoted, but not at all passionate, husband and is engaged in a mad, consuming liaison with a ruth- | less, brutal, and dominating man of | wealth. Into her life comes a friend of her daughter’s, an inexperienced and sensitive young man. ‘The older wo- man senses electrically his passion for herself, and. in a clean-cut, cruel dia- logue, she drags a declaration from him. So much is Continental enough. | It is also Continental, no doubt, to | show the tragic effects of the mother’s | passions on her daughter. But there is some subtlety in Molnar, some very personal subtlety, by which the daugh- ter’s torture is lifted into beautiful pathos very full of intense Meaning Psychologically, Molnar has built 4 truly and seen as deeply as any Freyg, an could wish. The girl has fixed upg, her mother a childlike love which tortured by the marriage of the mothe, and the millionaire. Tangled with this and far more potent in her tragedy js the discovery of her sweetheart’s pas sion for her parent. When she fing; the boy sneaking into the house ang trying her mother’s bedroom door ané when the jealous lover appears, strikes the boy and kicks him out, the stage js set for a peculiar sort of tragedy. This girl has never reached outside reality: she has always lived in a world of childlike illusions. The result of what she sees and suffers is to drive her back behind infantilism to concentration on her own ego, which means madnes. She returns to her father and casts out her mother. To kill the thought of her mother and the two men, she must kill herself. But suicide fails her, and mad- ness is her only sanctuary. The de. grees of her disillusionment are nicely set, and the degrees of her madness also. When she jumps _ into the Danube, she wears a bridal dress, be cause she wants her sweetheart to feel the ultimate pathos of her love. When she is ignominiously rescued, she makes her father and an alienist promise that the boy shall be summoned as if to her funeral and find her lying in bridal white upon a catafalque. The boy cries out his love when he thinks her dead, but living, she tears from him the truth that he still loves her mother more. Her last hold on the real world snaps. The girl becomes in her imagi- nation a heavenly angel. She wears the feather wings of an old masquerade, and the friends who care for her are only those human beings who happen to be thinking of her. She is Olympian in her self-sufficiency and her regal kindliness. At the last, this tragedy of pathetic faith is ended by her at- tempt to fly from the tower window to join the children singing carols in the street. The subtlety of Molnar removes this story from the horror chambers of Wedekind. The childlike loveliness of the heroine carries it into a_ pathos that suggests a kind of exalted Barrie unknown to our theatre. In actual performance—or, at least, in the actual performance given it by Pauline Lord and the other players whom Arthur Hopkins has gathered together—, the tragedy of the girl’s disillusionment comes out fine and clear and moving. At the bier and in the angelic tower, the delicate but still poignant emotion is dulled almost to boredom. In one sense, Hopkins has done fine- ly by “Launzi.” By virtue of Miss Lord, certain of the other players, the discretion of his direction, the apt translation of Edna St. Vincent Millay, and the lovely, firm, restrained, yet ex pressive, backgrounds of Robert E¢ mond Jones, the play flows along, beau- tifully illusive. There is one serious flaw, to be sure, in the direction—sen- ous, at any rate, to every one back of the first four rows: the company seems to imagine itself playing, not merely in the théatre intime, but in what 4 rising young dramatist described as the confidential theatre. ‘There are some minor flaws, too. The comical spec- tacle of Charles Millward imagining he is a ruthless profiteer is only ex ceeded by the comical spectacle 0 Arthur Hopkins imagining that Mil- ward could play such a part. The monotony of Saxon Kling’s voice, whet he plays the young man, may be bal anced against Albert Bruning’s fine pantomime as the father. (Continued on page 134)

Page 149

IG UR GR Meaning. built ag y Freud). xed Upon which is © Mother with this agedy is Its Pas- she finds USE and loor and 3, Strikes Stage js ly. This reality; vorld of of what her back ation on nadness, ‘aSts Out tof her nust kill nd mad- The de. e nicely madness ito the ‘ess, be- - to feel When e makes ise that f to her | bridal he boy nks her om him mother il world > imagi- : wears juerade, her are happen ympian r regal tragedy her at- window rols in res this ers of ness of pathos Barrie actual actual > Lord Arthur —, the ynment Loving. tower, notion e fine- Miss -s the e apt Millay, ret eX- t Ed- beau- erious —seri- ick of seems nerely hat a is the some spec: rining y ek le of Mill- The when . bal- fine December l No. 4049 Mahogany Brown Calf, Hand Laced, Hand Tooled, Suede leather lined, with mirror and coin purse. Size $12.0 6% x 6% inches. 0 No. 4048 Mahogany Brown Calf, Hand Laced, Hand Tooled, Suede leather lined, with mirror and coin purse. Size 7 x 6% inches. $12.00. No. 1543 Men’ s Dressing Case, closed size 8% x 7% ineh- es. Black Cobra Grain leather, leather _ lined. Contains ten toilet fittings of excellent quality. $10.00. Five Rose, No, 2147 Year Diary. Colors: Blue, Heliotrope, Green, Brown and Tan, $5.00. Soft No. 3065 Collar Case. Black Cobra Grain leather, Moire Silk lined. Closed size 10 x 6 inches. $5.00. No.2401 Half Pint Liquor Flask. Black leather cover, nickel plated cup and cap. $2.00. Cn personal gifts of leather! reminders of your affection. A bill fold for a man or a case for his collars No. 355 Envelope Purse 6x9 inches, of Mahogany, Brown Calf. Delicately air brushed. Ten Celt lined, with mirror, powder puff case and built-in coin purse. $18.00. No. 353 Also made in Genuine Black Pin Seal at same price. WHAT is ever more welcome than those distinctly Gifts that will be continuous in use and constant a fitted toilet case that will drop conveniently into his suit case—or what could be more welcome to any woman than one of the newest Reed Craft purses, fitted with all the little fascinations so dear to the feminine heart. Look at these pictured offerings—a complete gift catalogue is before you for anyone to whom you would like to show your affection or regard. Check the things you want to give to Him or Her or to yourself. Take the entire sheet with you to your favorite shop and make your selections. Practically every smart shop has Reed Craft Leather Things, but if by any chance you shouldn’t find these articles on display, send the page to us with your check and we'll ship them to you promptly! AL.REED co MAKERS OF REED CRAFT LEATHERGOODS 373 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK No. 4177 Mahogany Brown Calf, Hand Laced, Hand Tooled, Suede leather lined, with mirror and coin purse, Size 744 x8 inches. $15.00. No. Mahogany Brown Calf, Hand Laced, Hand Tooled, Suede leather lined, with mirror and = ¢0at purse. Size 6 x 8% inches. $12.00. 1046 No, 374 Tuck - away oF Under - the - Arm Bag, Mahogany Brown Calf. | Hand Laced, Hand Tooled, Suede _ Leather lined, with mirror and coin purse. Size 6% x9 inch- es. $15.00. . . No. 1363 Writing set. Con- tains full supply of stationery, address book, and_ white ivory paper knife. Size closed 8% x 6 inches. $5.00. No. 1022 Men’s Wallet. Gen- uine Calf, all stitched and leath- er lined. Colors: Black and Brown. Closed size 4% x 2% inches. $1.50. No. 2064 Bridge Set. Ecrase Calf, assorted col- ors: LBiue, Rese, Green, Brown, Tan and Heliotrope. Closed size 5% x 3% inches. $3.50. No. 1 Ma Chongg Set. ported Chinese tiles Im- of polished bone and bamboo. Complete set with coun- ters. $22.50.

Page 150

VOGUE STAGE ss ON THE (Continued from page 132) Embroidered French Bonbonniere imported by Maillard ‘Bonbons~C hocolates “French Bonbonnieres Articles de Luxe Novelties and “Favors NEW YORK C/venue Madison at 47% Street ifth CchAvenue at 35% Street But, barring the muted quality of the performance on the opening night, the failure of the play to prove moving to the very end must lie with Miss Lord. . She acts the earlier scenes with that voice of hers, which is so in- herently pathetic, and with an under- standing that knows how to shade and emphasize. ‘The groundwork of the whole part—and, therefore, of the play —is sure and moving. But, when it comes to the two hardest and most essential moments—the climax of the scene at the bier and the last few seconds when the heavenly angel takes to flight—, Miss Lord can not lift her voice, her part, and her play into the exalted region of emotion where alone it can live. If she could do this, or if Hopkins could train her to it, “Launzi” would be, I think, something of an experience in the American theatre. “TARNISH” Thoroughly actable and a good play, too, “Tarnish” likewise seems an un- usually significant drama to Broadway. The reason is a sad enough commen- tary on the American playwright. Gil- bert Emery, who also wrote “The Hero,” combines earnestness and ob- servation in a fashion hardly common in American plays; but “Tarnish” has arrested attention and won very warm praise, largely because Emery uses ma- terials that hardly any other play- wright dares to use. The amusing part is that these are materials which a native drama of genuine vitality ought to have been using a generation ago. “Tarnish” is a serious play about youth; it deals with the tragedy that threatens young love when a manicure- past intrudes upon a blissful pres- ent. And “Tarnish” has the further distinction of dealing with that gigantic group of citizens from whom ninety- nine per cent. of our playgoers come— the mute middle class. It ought to seem just a little odd that the drama of youth and the flat next door should have the value of a rare stamp. We ought to go on praising “Tarnish” in some fashion or other, even though it had no other virtue than its fresh materials. I think we must go on praising “Tarnish” in spite of the fact that it has the faults of a very stale dramatic form. The reality of its peo- ple and a sober, simple, earnest grasp of certain issues in life excuse a most obvious contrivance in the way of plot. Emery wants to show us two young people in love—fine, vigorous young people—, and he wants to show us how the past of the young man—an average sort of past, not at all vicious —can turn up and shake and test and illumine the girl. He wants to tell us that lust may tarnish, but that tarnish can be cleaned away. The problem is to bring the revelation of the boy’s past into the girl’s present and to make it as dramatic a con- frontation as possible. Emery’s weak- ness in “Tarnish”—just as it was his weakness in “The Hero”—is an in- ability to avoid the complex and arti- ficial in his plot. To accomplish his fairly simple confrontation, Emery gets up the following devastating chain of relationships. The heroine and the hero work in the same office. The manicure who provides the hero with a past is engaged in philandering with the heroine’s foolish old father. On top of that, a neighbour uses this same manicure, has seen the father enter- taining her, and happens in at the right moment to tell about it. By some absurd hocus-pocus about cashing a five-hundred-dollar cheque to pay some bills, the father gets enough money in his untrustworthy hands to ruin the family when he gives it to the mani. cure. The heroine’s difficulties are jn. creased by the fact that she has had to give up her job because her “boss” has made advances. The result of all this chain of events and relationships is that the heroine goes to the mani- curist’s flat to beg back the money, And, of course, this is the evening— nay, the very half-hour—, when the manicurist, sick with an old passion for the hero, tricks him into coming to see her. The impetus of this gi- gantic machine, rumbling through two acts, is enough to carry the play safely past a third and final curtain. It seems absurd to have to inveigh against such Pinerotic construction, Realism in characters and emotions fits just as badly with it as would a poetic and spiritual interpretation of life, Nothing but Emery’s earnestness and his devotion to truthful character por- trayal could carry him successfully past the artificiality of his plot. This poet and »layer has too fine a talent to dally with such contrivings. They are all so futile beside his understanding that, at bottom, his heroine is hurt, not so much at discovering a past in her lover, as at the commonness of his passion and his woman. Emery is likely to travel a long way. Already, he outdistances Owen Davis as much as he trails Eugene O’Neil!l. He will travel a lot faster and a lot farther when he discovers that plotting a play is not a branch of the parquetry in- dustry. “Tarnish” is acted capably in most of the minor parts and with real con- viction and effectiveness in two out of the four principal rdles. Tom Powers is still Tom Powers and something less than easy and fluent; but he plays the boy with fine and subtle skill when he touches the emotions. Ann Hard- ing, that blonde young goddess dis- covered by the Provincetown Players in “Inheritors,” can not drive through to quite so clear a feeling, but she has intelligence, a voice, and a person rich in beauty, and already an ability to bring these things to bear upon the problem of representing human char- acter. Her performance is excellent just as it stands, and she belongs un- questionably to that bevy of younger actresses who make the future of the American stage rosy with promise. If Fania Marinoff could play with inner conviction, her manicurist would make the second act of “Tarnish” a stunning half-hour of emotion. But Miss Marinoff seems always to be an actress leading a reluctant character along by the hand, She plays a part, she does not live it; and realism de- mands at least an imitation of life, not a display of histrionism. Albert Gran is even more skilful as an actor and even more unfortunate as an imper- sonator. He plays the heroine’s fud- dling father with all manner of vir- tuosity, but he never comes within a mile of the part. He merely creates a picturesque burlesque. His one mo- ment is when he hides his face from the light and weeps buckets of tears. Marion Lord, Mrs. Jacques Martin, and Mildred MacLeod manage small parts nicely, and the direction of John Cromwell, who also sponsors the play, is smooth and effective, if not elabo- rately real. “CYMBELINE” In “Cymbeline,” Shakspere shows Gilbert Emery a bad enough example to justify the plot of “Tarnish.” Holinshed, Boccaccio, and, perhaps, “Snow-White and the Seven Dwarfs have provided him with a three-decker (Continued on page 136)

Page 151

ani- in- had ss” all Lips :ni- _— the ion ing gi- wo ely gh on. its tic December 1 OON will come Christmas with its many gift problems. This year let our Christmas Suggestion Book help you. In it are gifts con- veniently classified as to price— many even as low as five dollars. And these suggestions are further separated into lists for men, women and children, so that gift- giving may be made a truly en- joyable, and incidentally a less ex- pensive, problem. At the Holiday Season our dis- plays truly represent the character of our establishment — gorgeous diamond and pearl jewelry — was the night \ before Gbristmas| dainty ladies’ wrist-watches and time-pieces for gentlemen—silver services—novelties in gold and sil- ver and leather from many lands —stationery—bags—a gift shop of | superior excellence for people of refinement and taste. And priced so reasonably that there is no excuse to resist the temptation to purchase. Theodore B. Starr, Inc. JEWELERS & SILVERSMITHS ESTABLISHED 1862 FIFTH AVENUE AND 47TH, STREET New York Write or call for a complimentary copy of the Gift Suggestion Book. The quantity is really limited so we suggest that it be done to-day. VUUUUUUUUEAUUT ANNA ETAA EAA THN TUUUUULUUELNUULL CAUCE HU PARIS If not at your dealer's write direct to LIONEL TRADING COMPANY, Inc., 320 Fifth Avenue U. S. Distributors New York City Chu-Chin-Chow Parfum de Bryenne = The smiling gold head conceals a stopper of the hand- painted bottle containing an exquisite odor. The most magnificent package conceived by the French originator. Can be had in large size suitable for Christmas gift, or small purse-size suitable for Bridge or Mah-Jongg prizes. ul Mn MU: A pump which shows the subtle influence of finest shoemaking FRANK BROTHERS Fifth Avenue Boot Shop Between 47%4 and 48th Streets, New York ee ee Muu LLL LLL LA AMAL ULL TT BOSTOX, Little Building WASHINGTON, EXHIBIT cac Established 1865 ST LOUIS Arcade Buildi O S H OPS Rea & Savings Woodward Bldg opp. Shoreham Hotel EW HAVE. PITTSBURGH XM Hotel Taft xX Jenkins BURG We have no agencies- Our Shoes are sold in our own Shops only

Page 152

For Seventy-five Years Couturions to the Gentlewomen of America t os Lb NEW YORK 552 Fifth Avenue BOSTON Boylston Street and Park Sque re SEEN ON THE VOGUE STAGE (Continued from page 134) contraption by way of plot which would o’ertopple any play. Even Shakspere’s tremendous drive and love- ly words can not save the piece. It might well have lain twice fifteen years on the book-shelf before Julia Marlowe thought of reproducing it. The best that can be said for its plot is that Avery Hopwood or Cosmo Hamilton might very well go to the wager of Posthumus and Iachimo over the chas- tity of Imogen for the story of his next play. The only points of interest that “Cymbeline” now presents are these. It shows Shakspere a master of dra- matic conflict even when his material is inferior. It brings us beauty of verse that lies in that happy place between emotional prose and the too- regular beat of formal poetry and it houses “Hark, Hark, the Lark” and the dirge of the “golden lads.” It shows us Shakspere experimenting with a popular new form—the romance which made a commercial compromise be- tween tragedy and the happy ending—, and it makes us marvel at how, in a bare two years, Shakspere pushed the thing through “A Winter’s Tale” to perfection in his last play, “The Tem- pest.” And, finally, “Cymbeline” lets us marvel almost as much at how cheaply Shakspere could cling to such of his popular clichés as the sleeping- potion, the heroine disguised as a man, the stolen princes, the court fop, and the banished lord. Outside of his writing talents, these were the only things that Shakspere added to the old tales he stole for “Cymbeline.” The only things? After all, the character of Imogen stands full beside his many | fine women. The performance which Miss Mar- lowe and FE. H. Sothern give of “Cymbeline” is anything but satisfac- tory. They respect the text for once and make a minimum of cuts and re- arrangements. For the beginning of the play, their permanent setting of pillars and arches is better used than in any of their other productions; it gives greater beauty to the scenes and more speed to the changes. Then, in the last acts, the mountains and the battle-fields of Wales, marching in as good old-fashioned “flats” and back- drops painted with rocks and shields and army camps, clutter up the stage, destroy the scheme of the rest of the production, and slow down the play where it should run most swiftly. Of course, slow changes of scene hardly matter beside the tedious elocu- tion which Miss Marlowe brings to the part. Dwelling on every lovely word— and every unlovely one, too—. swelling her beautiful voice in lingering tone and cadence, she kept the play run- ning steadily with only five minutes for intermission from eight o'clock to midnight at the premiére. Sothern plays Posthumus with an uninspired sort of vigour. The pleasure of the performance is confined to Frederick | Lewis’s excellent Tachimo. | { “CASANOVA” There are surprises enough in “Casa- nova” to please the most jaded taste. Lorenzo de Azertis, a Hungarian play- wright with a Spanish name. turns the greatest lover and most polished scoun- drel of the eighteenth century into a man with a deep and abiding attach- ment for one out of three hundred mis- tresses. De Azertis also discloses the fact that Italian law in the most licentious of centuries was as strict about the propriety of hotels as is New York law to-day. Another sur- prise of “Casanova” is that Gilbert | Miller—one of our most astute di- rectors of acting—knows little at all about lighting. I am personally not at all astonished to find Fokine repeating old and complicated ballet business jn the crowded space before a prologue curtain, instead of presenting a flashing rout of Venetian maskers. The play itself is disappointing. The first act swings along nicely enough, with Casanova acquiring gold and a new mistress in debonair fashion. The second act, which discloses the parting of the lovers when the gold has run out, ends with nothing solider than an amusing array of young ladies all mis- taken for the heroine by postboys sent to turn her back. The last act, twenty- two years later, still strains our imagi- nation with a picture of Casanova true in spirit to the young girl Henriette. The drama of this play is not full and robust enough in the second and third acts, and, in spite of an able transla- tion by Sidney Howard, the dialogue is never sufficiently witty to make us excuse the weakness of the plot. The play has been elaborately and expensively staged, with many brilliant costumes by George Barbier—some a little too frisky for anything but musical comedy—, two handsome set- tings by Herman Rosse that have come none too well through the ordeal of rehearsals, and tinkling pleasant music by Deems Taylor, the aforesaid ballet by Fokine, and an able cast. As often happens, the printer has put the name of the wrong player at the head of the program. Lowell Sherman’s: decisive skill hardly shows behind the ruffles of gesture and furbelows of nervous movement with which he has bedecked the part. Katharine Cornell, on the other hand, plays the sweetheart, Hen- riette, superbly. There is nothing but the highest praise to be said for this young actress. She masters illusion and emotion perfectly. The rest of the long cast is almost without fault, an unusual record even for Miller. Mario Majeroni, Ernest Cossart, Horace Bra- ham, and A. G. Andrews top the list. “WINDOWS” For the first bill of the new season, the Theatre Guild has chosen a some- what inferior specimen from the works of John Galsworthy. At its best, “Windows” is a cross between the piti- ful irony of “The Pigeon,” and the earnest conviction of “The Silver Box.” It lacks, however, the even comedy of the one and the firm drama of the other. “Windows” is one of those frightfully self-conscious plays which result when a propagandist tries to re- strain his natural inclinations in the interests of art. The characters simply can’t be kept from talking about life, yet the author hasn’t the blind and, perhaps, foolish courage to plunge frankly into a theme. We watch an- other affectionate delinquent like the heroine in “The Pigeon” encounter the hardness of even soft, well-meaning people, and we are expected to smile over the futility of the well-meaning. while we suffer with the beautiful and damned. We do smile, we do suffer, though not greatly; and we are a bit annoyed at the tepid drama and the gingerly propaganda. The theatre is for brighter, darker, stronger things. The Guild has a habit of casting plays better than most other Broad- way managements. The performance of “Windows” has its weak spots, but they are few: unfortunately, one of these is Phyllis Povah, who plays the poor creature who was “famous at eighteen.” as her father said, for kill- ing a love-child. Miss Povah does quite capably by most of the play, but she is a little too robust and incapable of indicating the pathos of (Continued on page 138) De oo V2 =r pee ceeaserssceeceasseeseeeees:

Page 153

at ng in

Fashion decrees Black the dom- inating note in footwear. For every occasion wear, accom- panied by the attractive new shades in hosiery, there is noth- ing smarter. The “Zaza” is available in: Black Satin with Suede Cut-out; Black | H Suede with Patent or Mat Kid; H Patent Leather with Mat Kid; : Mat Kid with Patent. Louis, Spanish and Box-wood heels. H A Shoe Store is the Logical Place to buy Hosiery © K ake LOS ANGELES HOLLYWOOD DETROIT PORTLAND SAN FRANCISCO CYITIT IAT II YY Iris rir

CXXFEAEX TIA T IIT ILIA I IIe errr ii rir rir iiikrrs red

io \

t

Announcing an exquisite new parfum Bouquet Marte Earle known as Secret des Fleurs x CLIPS For many years Marie Earle searched Paris to find an odeur suitable for her fastidious clientele. At last she has perfected an exquisitely dainty feminine parfum typical of the quality of the Marie Earle Toilet Preparations. Only a limited quantity has arrived from Paris for the Christmas season. Only those who send thetr orders in early may obtain this exquisite parfum enclosed in a clear amber bottle of charmingly grace- ful lines embellished with an etched flower design and topped with a brilliant black stopper. Secret des Fleurs comes in a Parisian box of dull black and gold, one size only—three ounces priced at $12.50. A Christmas gift par excellence from Maatue Carle 600 Madison Avenue, New York Washington

Paris

fa ¢ LAA iS BY (ae LN TK SAR

_— wr Wasser

Pm

ae a : f —~ Sas 3 xed ea Re

Page 154

Visit NES TLE’S of New York for your Permanent Wave This Xmas F YOUR hair is straight, your desire is not merely for a “permanent,” but for a-permanent that looks like a natural wave, yet leaves your hair healthy, lustrous, strong. Go to Nestle’se# such a wave. Here the original inventor of this treatment has brought his famous LANOIL Process to the peak of perfection. No hair breakage, frizz or burns are possible. There is neither borax nor pulling, and less heat than your marcel iron requires. A comfortable two hours spent in the most ex- quisitely appointed establishment in the world, in the hands of experts trained by the celebrated Nestle himself, and you will behold your straight, lanky, stubborn hair transformed into a waviness that re- sists water, shampoos, bathing and perspiration, yet glows with NEW life and lustre. A permanent wave at Nestle’s is a delightful Christmas Gift. Our forty booths are filled from morning to night at this time of year, with the fash- ionable world, whose preparations for the holidays include this necessary convenience. Call, phone, or write us, and let us make an appointment for you. Let us, in any case, send you our free explanatory, illustrated booklet. NES TLE’S 12 & 14 East 49th St., New York City Fust off Fifth Avenue Phones: Vanderbilt 7660—1-2-3-4 Nestle LANOIL Waving at reduced winter prices is given at the Nestle Broadway Branch, corner of 51st Street. Phone Circle 1439 PERS Se nd NID SEEN ON Rs VOGUE STAGR (Continued from page 136) this sharp-nerved girl come straight from two years in prison. She does not catch the mood for the part of the character. The lovely Frieda Inescort does the smaller task of playing a healthy, vigorous English girl perfectly. Moffat Johnston, Kenneth MacKenna, Helen Westley, Alice Belmore Cliffe, George Baxter, and Francis Tweed get through their work efficiently. The gem of the performance, linked with the best thing in the play, is Henry Travers’s acting of the girl’s philosophical old father, the window- cleaner. The character is rather an imitation of Shaw—the dustman in “Pygmalion” and the waiter in “You Never Can Tell.” But, for all that, or, perhaps, because of it, it is a fine part. And Travers plays it finely. Sometimes, I think Travers knows more about acting than any one who has ever appeared in a Theatre Guild play. His personality limits him to a certain line of comic, low-life parts, but. within that limit, he is perfect. Gesture, intonation, tempo, diction— he knows how to use them all for his purpose, and he knows what his pur- pose should be. “FLORIANI’S WIFE” It is very difficult to say anything about the true merit of Pirandello’s play, “Floriani’s Wife.” The perform- ance which Margaret Wycherly and her company give of it leaves the out- lines of the play most uncertain. They seem a bit vague as to whether the thing is tragedy or ironic farce. Some of the players—many of them, in fact, —are pretty poor. Margaret Wycherly herself has her fine moments, and, again, she drags and stares and fails to live at all. Mary Hone is charming and clear, but a little monotonous, Jacques Lebaudy has fire, but he can not get into the age of the character he plays. In the end, you have a curious and striking plot vaguely ex- hibited. Its central situation is excel- lent. A wife who has left her husband for an evil life and who has been re- ported dead to her daughter, regains her former place by a second state of marriage. The daughter, treasuring the memory of her sainted mother, gives only a stepchild’s hate to the woman she professes to love. This situation might have been treated for such sim- ple values as thwarted mother-love. Pirandello seems to dwell more on the irony of the yearly observances of the woman’s “death” and on subtle, shift- ing emotions now playing over the husband, now over an old lover, now over possible discovery by the daugh- ter, rarely over thwarted affection. But the straggly performances leave most of the values uncertain. “THE NERVOUS WRECK” After the melodramas of the “ten, twent’, thirt’,” the hokum of his Brady days, and the heavy drama of “The Detour” and “Icebound,” Owen Davis is off making downright, sure-fire farce in “The Nervous Wreck.” Some of it is fresh, most of it is old, old stuff, and all of it—by the added grace of Sam Forrest, who directed the play— is violently amusing. The story deals with a hypochondriac out West, who finds himself thrust by a young woman into the heart of many difficulties col- oured by red blood and black powde The fresh moments come when the nerves of the mollycoddle are so shat. tered by bullying and downright dap. gers that he snaps out like an irritabl. animal and becomes a fearsome Spec. tacle of wrath. Otto Kruger, afte promising to develop into a fine dry. matic player if he could lose certain mannerisms, turns into a first-rate far. ceur and sweeps “The Nervous Wreck” along into success. June Walker ang Edward Arnold assist famously, THE REVUES Musical comedy is still with us, but in the past year or two, the revue has outdistanced all its rivals in entertaip. ment value, and it is now threatening to exceed them in numbers. On to of “The Vanities” and “The Scandals” on the heels of Ziegfeld’s last phenome. nal “Follies” and just ahead of his new. est crop, four specimens of the most American of shows have come to Broadway. The most popular, the Shuberts’ “Artists and Models,” is the entertainment which the Illustrators . Society of New York presented last summer, liberally coated with smoking. car humour and acted by a not at all distinguished group of players: it is funny and ugly. The loveliest show is the new “Music Box Revue,” still a bit ‘overstuffed with upholstery, but relieved now by some painted drops by Clark Robinson, hung in_ folds, Hassard Short deserves credit for genuine originality in the staging of these pieces; it was he who discovered what square-hung velvets and brocades and gauzes could do. ‘The present show has some good fun in it, thanks to the doubling critic, Robert C. Benchley, who gives his parody of a treasurer’s report, carefully labelled as a parody, and thanks to Frank Tinney, Phil Baker, Florence Moore, and “Yes, We Have No Bananas” sung 4 la grand opera. It has two good singers, Grace Moore and Dora Stroéva, both dis- tinguished by character as much as voice. There is a very lovely waltz number with a transformation scene. And Irving Berlin has contributed, among many good songs, an excep- tionally lilting number called “Climb ing Up the Scale.” : John Murray Anderson’s “Greenwich Village Follies” seems to me the best of the series. I suspect I should think this, even though it had nothing in it but the extraordinary vaudeville pantomime of the Briants, “The Mov- ing-Man’s Dream.” But there are also Buster West and John Wells, dancing uncommonly well; the Mandells for comic acrobats; Tom Howard doing much of his old burlesque stuff, though not so effective with a revue audience which is dull to such fine humour; a Scandinavian gymnast who throws wild Western Indians all over the stage; a lovely setting by Max Ree badly lighted by somebody or other for @ Laurence Hope Oriental number; an some really perfect revue scenes that were designed by Mrs. Ingeborg Hansell. Sam Bernard, Willie Collier, Ray Dooley, and Van and Schenck to. the contrary notwithstanding, “The Nifties of 1923” is—as a producer wit described it—nothing but “The Nifties of 1913. The humour is a little newer than the production ideas of R. H. Burnside, but not a great deal.

Page 155

IG UR GR Powder, hen the SO shat. ht dan. irritable ne Spec. T, after ine dra. Certain ‘ate far. Wreck” ker and 18, but, rue has fertain- atening Jn top ndals,” -nome- iS new- » most ne to r, the is the rators’ . 1 last oking- at all it is show still a , but drops folds, for 1g of vered cades esent anks a of a das ney, ‘Yes, rand race dis- 1 as valtz ene, ited, December I & oS S NENG ElnG Y Bz YES) 4, cANNOUNCING THE SHOWING of THE MOST EXCLUSIVE AND DISTINCTIVE FOOTWEAR FOR WOMEN for FALL AND WINTER CAMMEYER Branch De Luxe 077 ~Sif'th Avenue Wetween S3rd and 54th Streets New York City Our representatives visit all the larger cities SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED BROCHURE Why risk losing your real pearls? HEY are so _— lost or stolen and even if in- sured for full value are practically irreplaceable. Why run this risk when I can duplicate them and no one but yourself will know? I have been doing this for years, matching every pearl perfectly in tint, lustre, size and shape. My pearls duplicate the originals in everything except monetary value. Among your friends are women of wealth and high social position who are wearing duplicate pearls made by me. I have had a twofold satisfaction in this work: the artist’s Se in copying the subtle beauty of natural pearls and the additional joy of knowing I have brought peace of mind to many a woman who formerly lived in continual fear of losing her price- less gems. My work is confidential; I handle every detail myself. In addition to this work of duplication, I make up my pearls in necklaces priced at $25, $75, $100 and $150. | call them Priscilla pearls as they are made here on Cape Cod—the land of the Pilgrims. If you want to see Priscilla pearls write me. giving your bank reference and stating your approximate preference in price and length of string, and I will mail you three strings on approval. i i 5 4 HYANNIS, MASSACHUSETTS Producer of PRISCILLA PEARLS Visitors are invited to visit my shop and see Pearls made ee Men and women everywhere are enjoy- ing wonderful results from the Francis Jordan reducer — using it only a few minutes each day. You can reduce “all over” or just “in spots” by simply rolling yourself with this sctentifically constructed roller. ts corrugated surface massages the flesh four ways at once, breaking up the fatty tissue which is then carried out of the system by this increased circulation. My reducer is endorsed by physicians as the safe, quick, sure method of re- ducing with NO DIET and NO EXERCISE. Wonderful? Yes—and so sure of results that it is guaranteed. or you may see and purchase at: New York Franklin Simon & Co. Washington Woodward & Lothrop Pittsburgh Joseph Horne Co. Baltimore The Kallotheneion Chicago E. Burnham DEPT. M-12 f Chas. A. Stevens & Bros. Cleveland Halle Brothers Kansas City, Mo. Harzfeld’s Los Angeles Ambassador Hotel Bilemore Hotel Blackstones San Francisco City of Paris Seattle Frederick 8 Nelson London, England Selfridge & Co., Ltd. Give this useful, unusual gift— Do not delay. Send me your check or money order for $12.50. I will send your re- ducer and instruction book prepaid in plain package by return mail. If at the end of 9 days you are not entirely satisfied, return the reducer and I will promptly send back your money. If you prefer, send no money. \ will send your reducer to you. You may pay the postman when it is delivered. Order yours today or send for free book. A GIFT SUGGESTION Anyone who wants to reduce would appreciate receiving a Francis Jordan reducer. You who are searching for a gilt for the man or woman who already has *everything,”” give a Francis Jordan reducer. It is beautifully finished in orchid and violet tones. Comes wrapped in delicate lavender tissue, sealed and tied with ribbon, packed in a royal purple box——an exquisite gift already wrapped. The better class of stores everywhere are beginning to carry the Francis Jordan reducers. If your favor- ite shop does not have them, send your order: direct to me. -, f/ lo | 826 Fifth Ave | Rey) Angeles

Page 156

140 LISSUE HAN DKERCHIEFS FOR MEN & WOMEN In the variety and style of their artistic, fast, color-woven borders—in their superior quality, fine hemstitching and perfect workmanship— LISSUE Handkerchiefs have won world-wide reputation. Imported from England. Men’s 75 cts.—Women’s 50 cts. Made and guaranteed by REE Tootal Broadhurst Lee Co., Ltd. Ja American Office: 48 387 Fourth Ave. 3 (486) “En Beauté” cold cream in jar 2Y4 inches hi h; $1735. ae Be, (487) Powder for bath or boudoir in bos 234 by “by nb 5 a oo: ot puff; $175. (488) Eau de Cologne; 9-in. bottle; $575. Of Best Dealers (489) Lilac extract; $5.25 Qa an. Gee. Oh ee See Oe en Wd Lec, SMH MM Wc DD EC Eee #1 | PERFUMED TRIFLES AND Note DAINTY HANDKERCHIEFS Let Vogue do your Christmas shop- ping. For instruc- tions, see page 82 (Left) (490) Toilet bag; (491) Perfume; @ as decorative as it 1s practical; pink satin dec- orated with tiny rose- buds, with rubberized bag inside to carry such accessories as soap combination of autumn scents in a 2-ounce re tle, 2% by 3% inches $10.50. (492) A smaller bottle, in manikin sity comes in “Amber Roya or Hand-made handkerchiefs: (493) Glove size; real Valenciennes lace; $2.75. (494) Hand-hemstitched; $2.50 (495) Hand-hem- stitched, inch wide; $3.50. (496) Point de Paris edge; $3. (497) Net border; $2 wash-cloths; $5.25 and “Les Sylbis”; $125 (498) Perfumes; six bottles each a little over half an ounce and each containing a dif- ferent imported scent; in triangular boxes; $9.25 set; separately, they cost $1.50

Page 157

Think of it! t | ! ' really play yourself A elei cal t I Dt sanecils! wn é syandora iS} 2 ( in art g 1S i 2 a ka. £ é Ora re and P Pudd Bo 0 De 0 D d “ d one pecia Bo 0 , 0 n até 6 2 Tt \. Uf) esgeceseseeseeseesescceccesaseessesseesesaeace Seseseserssssesssseeseesssesasscescs SSS SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSKSSSSSSSSSSHSSSSSSSSSSSSSEEEESSESSEEEEESESSSSSSSeeeeseets of / g : Ves OGD sicr"ireeconweiny § 7, QUA * ~ait ce e Ol J LD 2 “ 2 » O DO G As aspecia od O Fs O D D postage on ord of 2 d C 2 eCOUDO OOD CAND 930 gan Bo ard PSSOSSSCSSHSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSESSSSSSSSSSSSSSHSSSSSSHSSESSSHSCSSESSCHESSSEHHSSSSHSSHSSSSSSSESSSESSSSSESSSEEEE ISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSRSSSSSSSSSSSHSSSSSSSSSSSSHSSSSSSeeesessaseseaat ITN S10) BEAN AYOO/NB(ON A phonograph that you can Infusing the music duality—shading mice according to nent. You w tima wit r ever drean d which rarest grat rate: the Grad 1€ 4uty and r ind ocalion nere i 4 responsi . & ¥ € ‘ ; ; i § ‘ j é ’ é tg . © € * : * % That the Acolian-Vocalion leads in the truth ~ : , ; 1 ful reproduction| of musical tone 1s recog fa ' ' ae ; : ‘ nized by musicians both here and abroad. ee i # . s [he Acolian Company was in advance of cy - 4 i | J 7] 1 . & others in producing the now so populat Console Model phonogr: ph —and now this * j Company offers the Vocalion in ex¢lusive Mauleem Or leiacwm velen mar ivan euueme (aire lue: S leading Gecora é é t! SI yualit Ind appearance ee . 7 \ THE AEOLIAN COMPANY s } Jo

Page 158

Simplicity ldistin- guishes the dainty “Catalina” 1-strap. In choice of Patent and Gun Metal with rubber heels, and Black Satin w.th wood heels. $7.50. REG. US PAT OFF TEP CO Smartly - tailored and shapely is this seasonable Oxford for general wear. Fea- tured in Brown Kid and Black Shoe Soap Kid. $10.00. Shoe Styles of Originality Beautifully Made and fitted Ne were the styles so attractive, the selections so varied as in this, the Silver Jubilee year of Queen Quality. Truly smart shoes, moderately priced, in styles that fit perfectly, keep their shapeliness and wear endur- ingly are featured at Queen Qu ality Agencies, and your satisfaction is assured by the Trade Mark stamped on every pair. New York See ° cago Detroit Pittsburgh Toledo . San Francisco Washington Cincinnati ° Cleveland : ° St. Louis . . Los Angeles Queen Quality And at other leading stores through Queen Quality Boot Shops . . . . © . . . . Agencies « 32-34 West 34th Street . « 158 Tremont Street : 4610 Sheridan Road + 1417 Woodward Avenue - 536 South Fourth Street 6 235 Fifth Avenue e 501 Adams Street ‘ ? 214 Post Street ; 1219 F Street, N. W. ‘ Jos. Pietzuch Co. Pocock- Wolfram 7 .- Brandt’s, Inc. Broadway Dept. Store, Inc. out the country Illustrated Style Booklet gladly mailed on request THOMAS G. PLANT COMPANY 93 BICKFORD STREET BOSTON, MASS., U.S.A. Queen Quality OSTEO-TARSAL walking shoes with Flexator Unlocked Shank (patented), made on shapely \j and exclusive orthopedic lasts, are preeminent in style and comfort is your assurance of Perfect Style Perfect Fit rfect Service ww A Perfect Satisfaction 4 Little Queen shoes for misses and children, as sold exclusively at Queen Quality Agencies, combine dainty style, correct fit and long wear in exceptional measure thi, WEEE, YypWUCMCCC=—MH™00€€00606000”00” N \ NG AAW Yl) (525) This modern Noah’s ark of wood has a side that opens to reveal a stable equipped with stalls and a roof that lifts to provide a place of storage for the plaster animals and the family; 10 in. high; $3.75 * Note Let Vogue do your Christmas shop- ping. For instruc- tions, see page 82 Z Wy MMMM Wy ew ey CHRISTMAS ANIMALS (526) Coloured wooden blocks that build six animal pictures, each 6Y2 FOR THE NURSERY 2005 by 12 inches; one block in each pic- ture will produce an appropriate sound when the attached string 1s pulled; $275 AQ (527) These en- tertaining little wooden figures are really alphabet blocks that may be used as nine- pins or as a pleas- ant method of in- struction; gay colours; 4 inches high; $4.25 (Right) (528) Country life may be brought into the town house by means of a barn- yard stocked with bright coloured cel- luloid pigs, ducks, cows, and farm- hands; box 22 in. square; $6.25 AS we cc) PUBEGEEE | tet OR aE ps ja mae XN Bradley and Merrill

Page 159

1G UR ™~ ALS Z00 December 1 sop THE IDEAL XMAS_ GIFT THE WIZARDLY ODOR OF a Ss G N Y r A R I Ss CAN BE OBTAINED IN 1 OZ. AND '% OZ. BOTTLES, OOOO ALSO IN POWDERS, TALCUMS, SACHETS AND FOILET WATERS. AT ALL GOOD DEALERS alll UA ore eee eee eee eee eC _ IP UMN | | Perfume THE PERFUME WHICH ENHANCES THE PERSON- ALITY WITH ITS ROMANTIC FRA GRATSRN C £ MI PI \IMIl {II Hi ANNI If not at your dealer's, write direct to LIONEL TRADING CO., Inc. 320 FIFTH AVE., NEW YORK CITY U S. DISTRIBUTORS WINIMANLLAAAA allt THE STROLLER ‘ HANAN SHOES Tue most illustrious name in Shoes to which each successive season adds new lustre in Hanan. Sold as commod- ities of commerce, Hanan Shoes are achievements in art. The Stroller, pre- sented in combinations of Suede with Calfskin Trim, retains for life those lines that the designer puts in for style. HANAN & SON And Seven SS 634 FIFTH AVE. NFP 718 FIFTH AVE. gL % 411 FIFTH AVE, 516 FIFTH AVE, CRT SANs 2 meee CIOUS: STONE JEWELRY FOR CHRISTMAS GIFTS 5 A SPAULDING & CO. > -ZERRRRDABBEeEABREBE Sa ~ sr, “4 MAGES \ oe Puy su SK

Page 160

ROS En nee ee VOGUE PATTERN SERVICE room nearest you; or they may be purchased at any of the shops listed below, Proce neares may be ordered by mail from New York, or from the pattern show- where books of colour sketches and lengths of the season’s favoured materials are also exhibited. which you order. Sizes: Remittances should be made out to the store or office from Patterns are cut in sizes 34 to 42 in. bust measure, 24 to 32 in. waist meas- ure, and 35 to 43 in. hip measure, tnless otherwise specified. When ordering pat- terns by mail, please state your size. Prices: Patterns are priced at 65 cents for each waist, short coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pattern up to and including 12 years; $1 for one-piece frocks, long coats, and long négligées. Special staple patterns are 40 cents eacli. Patterns May Be Bought At: AKRON, O.: The A. Polsky Co. ATLANTA, GA.: Chamberlin, John- son, DuBose Company ATLANTIC CITY, N. J.: M. E. Blatt Co., the Department Store of Atlan- tic City BALTIMORE, MD.: Hutzler Brothers Company, or O'Neill and Company, Inc. BATH, ENGLAND: Jolly’s BELFAST, IRELAND: Robinson & Cleaver, Ltd., Donegal Place BINGHAMTON, N. Y.: Sisson Bros. —Weldon Company BLOOMINGTON, ILL.: Mayer Liv- ingston & Co. BOSTON, MASS. : R. H. Stearns Com- pany, or Jordan Marsh Company BRIDGEPORT, CONN.: The D. M. Read Company BRISTOL, ENGLAND: Jolly’s BROOKLYN, N.Y.: Abraham & Straus BUFFALO, N. Y.: Flint & Kent CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA: The De- necke Company CHARLESTON, W. VA.: Coyle and Richardson CHARLOTTE, N. C.: J. B. Ivey & Company CHICAGO, ILL.: Carson, Pirie, Scott & Company CINCINNATI, O.: H. & S. Pogue Company CLEVELAND, O.: Halle Bros. COLUMBUS, O.: The F. & R. Lazarus & Co. DALLAS, TEXAS: Titche-Goettinger Company DAYTON, O.: The Rike-Kumler Com- Dany DENVER, COLO.: The Joslin Dry Goods Company DES MOINES, IOWA: Harris-Emery Company DETROIT, MICH.: The J. L. Hudson Company EL PASO, TEXAS: Goods Company EVANSTON, ILL.: Lord’s, Fountain Square EVANSVILLE, IND.: S. G. Evans Dry Goods Co. GRAND RAPIDS, MICH.: Friedman- Spring Dry Goods Company GREAT FALLS, MONT.: The Paris Dry Goods Company HOUSTON, TEX.: Foley Brothers Dry Goods Co. HUTCHINSON, KAN.: The Pegues- Wright Dry Goods Co. INDIANAPOLIS, IND.: L. S. Ayres & Company JACKSONVILLE,FLA.: Cohen Broth- ers JOHNSTOWN, PA.: George K. Kline KALAMAZOO, MICH.: Gilmore Bros. KANSAS CITY, MoO.: John Taylor Pry Goods Co. KNOXVILLE, TENN.: Miller's LAKE CHARLES, LA.: The Muller Co., Ltd., 625 Ryan Street LANCASTER, PA.: Tlie Donovan Co. LANSING. MICH.: J. W. Knapp Co. LEICESTER, ENGLAND: Morgan Squire LINCOLN, NEBR.: Miller & Paine LITTLE ROCK, ARK.: The Gus Blass Company LIVERPOOL,ENGLAND:Bon Marché LONDON, E. C., ENGLAND: Vogue Pattern Room, Rolls House, Breams Buildings. Popular Dry LOS ANGELES, CALIF.: J. W. Rob- inson Company MEMPHIS, TENN.: The Bry-Block Mercantile Company MIAMI, FLA.: Burdine & Quarterman MIDDLETOWN, N. Y.: The Amie Norris Company, 3 James Street MILWAUKEE, WIS.: Bertha Ehlers. The Specialty Shop, 106 Wisconsin St. MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.: The Dayton Company MONTREAL, CANADA: Henry Mor- gan & Company, Limited NEWARK, N. J.: L. Bamberger & Co. NEW ORLEANS, LA.: D. H. Holimes Company, Ltd. NEW YORK CITY: B. Altman & Co., FifthAvenue and 34th Street, orVogue Pattern Room, 19 West 44th Street. OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLA.: The Kerr Dry Goods Co. OMAHA, NEBR.: Thompson, Belden an oO. PADUCAH, KY.: The E. Guthrie Co. PEORIA, ILL.: Block and Kuhl Com- pany PHILADELPHIA, PA.: John Wana- maker PITTSBURGH, PA.: Joseph Horne Co. PORTLAND, ORE.: Charles IF’. Berg, 309-11 Morrison Street PROVIDENCE, R. I.: Gladding Dry Goods Company RICHMOND, VA.: Thalhimer Bros., ne. ROCHESTER, N. Y.: McCurdy and Company, Inc. ROCKFORD, ILL.: D. J. Stewart & Company SACRAMENTO, CAL.: Weinstock- Lubin and Company SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH: Keith- O’Brien Company SAN ANTONIO, TEX.: Wolff & Marx Co. SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF.: The White House, Raphael Weill & Co. SEATTLE, WASH.: The MacDougall & Southwick Co. SHEFFIELD, ENGLAND: H. E. Closs & Co., Ltd., 37 Fargate SHREVEPORT, LA.: Zodiag’s, Inc. SIOUX CITY, IOWA: Pelletier’s ST. JOSEPH, MO.: The Townsend, Wyatt, and Wall Dry Goods Co. ST. LOUIS, MO.: Stix, Baer & Fuller Dry Goods Company ST. PAUL, MINN.: Brothers SYRACUSE, N. Y.: Dey Brothers and Company TACOMA, WASH.: Rhodes Brothers TOLEDO, O.: La Salle & Koch Co. TOPEKA, KANSAS: The Crosby Brothers Company TORONTO, CANADA: The Robert Simpson Company, Ltd. TULSA, OKLA.: The Hunt Company WASHINGTON, D. C.: The Wells Shop, 1319 F St., N. W., Room 204 WATERBURY, CONN.: The Miller and Peck Company WILMINGTON, DEL.: Brothers Company WORCESTER, MASS.: Slocum’s Silk Store, 418 Main Street YORK, PA.: Chas. H. Bear Company YOUNGSTOWN, O.: The G. M. McKelvey Company. Mannheimer Schwartz Complete Selection: A complete selection of all recent pattern models is shown in the Vogue Pattern Book. Published six times a year. Vogue Pattern Book Spring Issue Jan. 1 Early Summer Issue Mar. 1 Summer Issue May 1 Fall Issue Early Winter Issue Winter Issue July 15 Sept. 1 Nov. 1 At All Stores & News-stands .. 35 Cents Ordered by Mail. . . Leese ff il | EQ ANAC I nu IA A cM A cA WHAT A LOST LADY by WILLA SIBERT CATHER PUBLISHED BY KNOPF ISS CATHER has written novels deeper and more enduring, but none more satisfyingly human than this. The author of The Song of the Lark, O Pioneers!, One of Ours, and others, is one of the most gifted writers of our day. Her slightest touch is pregnant with meaning, her every word is care- fully chosen, and she never resorts to that regrettable haste and consequent slovenliness of style too prevalent among modern novelists. Miss Cather has drawn a vividly realistic picture of a woman’s frailty in 4 Lost Lady. The story is an incident in a boy’s life —nothing more. Neil Herbert is a sensitively impressionable, village-bred lad, and his idealism conceives beauti- ful Mrs. Forrester to be the finest lady in the world, possessed of all those qualities of brilliance, wit, and mysteri- ous allurement before which masculine youth adores to abase itself. The bit- terness of disillusion ends this epoch in his life; ends his youth as such things will; ends the story in exactly the right place. . . . What an achieve- ment that is in itself! Like all Miss Cather’s novels, 4 Lost Lady is brimmed with the rough beauty of the West and with the atmosphere of the little town around which it is written. It is an unassuming little book made more poignant by reason of its extreme brevity and simplicity. MODERN SWEDISH MASTERPIECES Short Stories Selected and Translated by CHARLES WHARTON STORK PUBLISHED BY DUTTON “This volume is .... a challenge to American literary taste,” says Charles Wharton Stork. The works of Scandinavian authors have long since penetrated Europe, only to pause abashed on the threshold of America. Even Selma Lagerldf, perhaps the greatest genius who ever wrote in the Swedish tongue, author of the incomparable Gésta Berling, has not been accepted here with any very united enthusiasm. The reasons are varied, but clear enough on the whole. The dark, brooding, almost sinister sadness that overshadows Scandinavian literature (the same spirit that we find in many of the Spanish masterpieces) is something beyond the comprehension of or, anyway, distasteful to most American readers. The Swedish litera- ture is remarkably unhumorous, at least from our point of view. It takes a certain light-hearted vein of its .own at times, but, on the whole, it treats life as a serious, even a tragic, matter. In these stories, there is a subtlety not anywhere to be found in American literature. Behind their grave delibera- tion of style lurks a hidden depth. One comes upon it suddenly, at un- expected moments. Words and phrases that appear to have no importance are in reality pregnant with meaning. These stories, gathered together as representative of the modern Swedish short story, are threaded with just such bewildering deeps of beauty and significance; yes, and with a wise sort of humour that most of us might char- acterize as heavy. But it is essentially Scandinavian humour, as the stories are essentially Scandinavian art. This art ideal is the antithesis of ours in many respects, yet it is our view-point which must be remoulded into the proper state of receptive understanding. The translator’s preface to the volume very truly says: “It is not the book that is on trial, but the reader.” Yet, though the themes are at times grim, this book has a charm, aloof, not insistent, that is certain of appeal. 1a SF VOGUR READ) THE THREE IMPOSTORS by ARTHUR MACHEN PUBLISHED BY KNOPF This is a superb mystery story tha will strike its instant response from the heart of the thrill-lover. A “thriller” without the cheap ¢e. ment too often found in that type of fiction is bound to be appreciated, and The Three Impostors contains all the elements of pleasurable excitement without becoming tawdry. A terrible coin apparently invested with super. natural powers of a most diabolical kind is the gold Tiberius, and, one by one, Wilkins, Miss Lally, Miss Leicester her brother, and, finally, Joseph Wal. ters are drawn by its ghastly spell to an inevitable fate. The narrative is well and interestingly told and as superior to the average “detective tale” as is The New Arabian Nights or a Conan Doyle masterpiece of the same order. THE LONE WOLF RETURNS by LOUIS JOSEPH VANCE PUBLISHED BY DUTTON Another “Lone Wolf” story comes to gladden the hearts of those who have followed this unique character throughout his varied life of crime. In this story, the Lone Wolf, Michael Lanyard, king of the Paris underworld, falls in love with a beautiful and vir. tuous woman; this fact inspires him to foil the schemes of a New York tribe of bootleggers and generally to retrieve his fallen reputation with the police. There are some startling bits of description in this book. . . . This is Eva de Montalais: “Her beauty in his sight was like a pain in his heart, a hand at his throat. Slender and gracious and fair, with a sense hard to define of something more than human in that warmly human loveli- ness, something that made one think of a sickle of moon afloat in an azure midnight sky, of dawn-light fleet- ing breathlessly athwart a summer sea... .” And here is the villain boot- legger: “A gross body, ponderously slow of movement, with a heavy face of singularly immobile cast, resembling and for all its fleshiness as destitute of colour as a mask of papier-miaché, with a strange effect of transparency as if lighted by an inner glow akin to phosphorescence.” Truly, a_ baffling picture! In the end, Eva de Montalais, with the aid of circumstance, triumphs over the Lone Wolf’s generous impulse of self-sacrifice and forces him to realize the greatness of her love which is but strengthened by the thousand barriers that lie between them. We may assume that, from now on, the Lone Wolf steers a straight course. THE BLACK PARROT by HARRY HERVEY PUBLISHED BY CENTURY Mr. Hervey gives us a tropical tangle of love and mystery, intricately woven and brilliantly told. Here is a plot of fire and death, breathing the unconquerable spirit 0 romance through every word. Lhassa Camber, child of an Anglo-Saxon father and a mother of hidden origin who has bequeathed to her the dark, brood- ing passion of lost jungle races and the restless blood of conquest and dis covery, goes seeking adventure in tropic lands. Attempting to unravel the mys tery of a blind man’s death and a green jade god, she is caught in a web 0 ingenious device; trapped and carried off in a yacht by a white-faced young dreamer across the South China seas to Kawaras on the Bornean Coast. Lhassa finds romance in plenty (and so does the palpitating reader), as she lan guishes in Salazar’s stronghold, breaks (Continued on page 146)

Page 161

UE mes who icter e. hael orld, Vir- him York y to the bits This y in 2art, and nard than veli- nink an eet- mer oot- usly face ling tute ché, ncy 1 to ling lais, phs ulse to rich and We the igle ven ith, of ssa her vho od- the dis- pic ys- een ied ing ; to ssa an- aks December Il cA cigarette coritainer that lights em for you The Splitdorf Cig-a-lite is the very last word in smoke joy for the motorist. It eliminates the necessity of slowing down to “light up;”’ it cuts out one cause of driv- ing accidents; it keeps cigarettes always within easy reach of driver; and — it LIGHTS ’EM AS YOU TAKE ’EM. The SplitdorfCig-a-lite holds fifteen stand- ard size cigarettes. It is a compact, hand- somely finished, metal container that will improve the appearance of any dash or in- strument board. In construction, the Cig- a-lite is simplicity itself—nothing to get out of order—and easily installed on any car. An electrical and vacuum connec- tion—and Cig-a-lite is ready. Asa Holiday Gift, the Splitdorf Cig-a-lite is as unique as it is useful. You will find it on sale for $7.50 (In Canada, $9.00), complete, wherever Splitdorf Spark Plugs are sold. If your dealer cannot supply you, send re- mittance with name of car, and we will see that you are supplied. SPLITDORF ELECTRICAL COMPANY 394 High Street, NEWARK, New Jersey Branches CHICAGO NEW YORK PITTSBURGH DETROIT PHILADELPHIA TORONTO Pecific Coast Distributors PACIFIC AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE, Inc. 1452 Bush Street, SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA BOSTON Branches. OAKLAND, LOS ANGELES, PORTLAND, SEATTLE CIGALITE Fumo Turning lever back releases cigarette Turning down lever lighted. at left ‘“‘puffs’’ and lights it. Raising lever at right drops cigarette from container. 145 y ~ ie We RL r, we y ff > \\ 4 . igpavenaals & y i . Pad ae Ages . Rae! For It's “Vikie: That Life's Botherments Have a Way of Slipping Away LL the change—all the soothing solace your A tired nerves seek, is always there awaiting you. No room reservations, no packing of grips. No wearisome trains. Only a lifting of a latch and you are transported to the Ever-Ever Land where flowers and fragrance rule. Eagerly you slip into your garden smock. At once you find yourself humming a dear old long for- gotten song. You happily go up and down the walks, meeting and greeting all your flower friends. Some you chide a wee bit, others you chuck under the chin. A leaf you pick off here and there, or snip a spent bloom. Then an armful of flowers, and two hours have sped away. Two joy-filled, rest-giving hours. Life's hurry-worries have all slipped away. And you go back to your work, zestfully. For such are the joys of those who have their own glass gardens, one of our greenhouses. Even so little as $1,500 buys the material for one 15 feet wide and 33 long. To our catalog you are welcome. Or we will, on your invitation, be glad to call. Jord «. HurnhamG@. Builders of Greenhouses and Conservatories Eastern Factory Western Factory Canadian Factory Irvington, N. Y. Des Plaines, III. St. Catharines, Ont. Irvington New York Philadelphia Chicago New York 30 E. 42nd St. Land Title Bldg. Cont. Bank Bidg. Boston-11 Cleveland Denver Kansas City Little Bldg. 407 Ulmer Bldg. 1247 So. Emerson St. Commerce Bldg. St. Louis Toronto Buffalo 704 E. Carrie Ave. Harbor Commission Bldg. White Bldg.

Page 162

Created and Made in America A Square Bag of Solid Gold with Inlaid When it is time for the Christmas walk, will your gift go with her? If you have given her a Whiting & Davis Mesh Bag there is no question. Its shimmering beauty, its usefulness, the envied air of smartness it lends her costume, make it far too precious to leave behind. Exquisitely hand carved frames and the sheerest of mesh in Solid Gold and Sterling Silver. And don’t forget little Whiting & Davis Mesh Bags delight the hearts of Tiny Maidens. Whiting & Davis Mesh is used in the beautiful mesh scene in Irving Berlin’s New Music Box Revue, staged by Hassard Short and presented by Sam H. Harris at the Music Box Theatre in New York. WHITING & DAVIS COMPANY Plainville Norfolk County Massachusetts Canadian Factory — Sherbrooke, Que. “Gifts that Last” © Whiting & Davis Co., 1923 "RAT 1THe2z VOGUE REA D (Continued from page 144) through terror and intrigue to gain her lover’s side, and threads with him the inky river that winds back to free- dom through the whispering reaches of the jungle. In this book, Mr. Hervey plays young romance and exalts the imagina- tion with colourful descriptions which he traces with the easy familiarity of a man following the lines of his own palm—catching the glitter of midday seas, the breathing stillness of stifling nights; plunging the reader into an atmosphere so tangible that he can feel the stir of tropic silences and the pensive, threatening beat of the tom- tom. THE WADDINGTON CIPHER by WILLIAM JOHNSTON PUBLISHED BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE The Waddington Cipher is a well- told tale of love and hate and baffling mystery. James Waddington Hurd, scion of an old New York family and a gay young bachelor of means, receives an amazing summons in the midst of a mad party in his bachelor apartments and hastens to an old family estate, hitherto unknown to him in Ortonville. New York, to be precipitately plunged into the mysteries of a family feud of long duration and bitter intensity. At the bottom of all the excitement are the Waddington jewels which can no- where be located, though the key to the problem rests from the first in the unconscious hands of the hero. The girl with the bloody ax is not the least baffling of a long series of strange hap- penings, but, in the end, she turns out to be a quite human sort of young woman, and abandons the bloody ax for a more peaceable life of domestic happiness. The end is somewhat abrupt and leaves a good many people rather up in the air, but the interest is well sustained throughout, and the reader’s attention has little inclination to wander as it leaps from thrill to thrill, only to wind up in the reconciliation that ends the family conflict forever. SEA-TRACKS OF THE SPEEJACKS by DALE COLLINS PUBLISHED BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE Around the world in a motor-boat! It is just as fascinating as it sounds, the way Mr. Dale Collins tells it. When one has read Sea-Tracks of the Speejacks, one has cruised the seven seas, visited Jamaica, Panama, Paumo- tu, Tahiti, Fiji, Samoa, Nouméa, Aus- tralia, New Guinea, the Solomons, New Britain, the Admiralty and Hermit Is- lands, former German and Dutch New Guinea, the Spice Islands, Celebes, Java, Singapore, Seychelles Islands, Cairo, and Spain, lived intimately the life of these far-off places that seem to the average stay-at-home almost un- real from the very magic of the sound of them, and squeezed the last drop of adventure and romance out of that most romantic of all adventures— travel. With a reluctant sigh, the reader finds himself planted at last. safe and sorry, in staid old New York—prob- ably to start out all over again! JAVA AND THE EAST INDIES by FRANK G. CARPENTER PUBLISHED BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE The latest addition to Mr. Car- penter’s World Travel Series takes the reader into that little-known part of the world. the East Indies, refreshing his mind in a most interesting manner on all those facts which he found so dry and so easy to forget when he learned them at school. Through Java, Sumatra, Celebes, the Moluccas, New Guinea, Borneo, and the Malay Peninsula, we travel a route, which, with the exception of the Dutch, few Christian feet have taken, and find beauty and interest on every side of us. “We shall see the most beautiful lands on earth, with primitive peoples living close to the rich soil and learn- ing the lessons of the white man’s civilization,” the author promises at the outset of our journey, and, as we proceed through these ancient, half- savage countries, we learn to share his very sincere affection for the “lov- able little brown people,” and _ his enthusiasm for the incomparable beau- ties of their world. At times, we find ourselves caught in a web. of dry facts that recall the schoolbooks, such as: “At present something like 16,000.000 pounds of quinine are used in the world every year . . . enough to give every man, woman, and child three two-grain pills... .” There are pages that fairly bristle with numbers, calculations, esti- mates of all sorts, but there are other pages which will thoroughly compen- sate the imagination. The author possesses a vivid power of description and a vast and sympathetic under- standing of the characteristics and cus- toms of the East Indian and Javanese peoples and of the interesting influ- ences of Christian rule and so-called civilization upon them. Parts of this book could be read with tremendous profit, not only by individuals, but by governments, “not excluding our own,” as Mr. Carpenter observes. COSTUME DESIGN AND ILLUSTRA- TION by ETHEL TRAPHAGEN PUBLISHED BY WILEY Readers of Vogue, especially, will find this book of deep interest with its artistic compilation and exquisite illustrations, which render it the acme of all it represents. These clear and concise studies will be of inestimable value to students of costume designing and costume illus- tration. The reader is carried all the way through these subjects, from the first rudiments of sketch construction to the finished design. The costumes of every period are represented and beautifully reproduced, from the earli- est Roman dress to fashions of the present day, and the technical details of colour, fabric, sources of designs, harmonies, and effects are painstakingly explained and lavishly illustrated. The bibliography at the end of the volume contains an exhaustive reference list enumerating in alphabetical order those books and authors which students will find of the greatest assistance in their studies. No one will read this book without being impressed, not alone by its indi- vidual charm and the care and atten- tion which have been given to every detail of its contents, but by the author’s entire understanding and com- plete mastery of her subject. ELLEN PRIOR by ALICE BROWN PUBLISHED BY MACMILLAN This pretty story is told in graceful and, at times, startlingly beautiful verse. The decadence of the long, or narra- tive, poem dates back into the nine- teenth century, and few reversions to that often tediously superficial form succeed in rousing any enthusiasm. The grandeur and the noble dignity of the epic poems of Longfellow, Tennyson, and the poets of their day— and of certain of the English poets before them—-are things not to be denied. but modern brevity has de- manded a simplification of these old, (Continued on page 150)

Page 163

~~ 30 - — =e bee TT Fee Fe December Il A combination rack and chip drawer The Scott Combination Rack and Chip Drawer pro- vides atile rack with a con- tainer for counters or chips, eliminating need for side tables, extra drawers or pockets to hold counters. It has just the proper elevation and angle—no crouching in your chair—no eye strain. It has a doubling score for ready reference. Finished in black, red, green and oranze lacquer. Price for set of four $3.00 parcel post prepaid. Scott Chinese Chip Racks include genuine Chinese money colored like poker chips for use in place of bone counters. Price complete $9.50 per set of four, parcel post prepaid. Specify Scott Chinese Chip Racks when ordering this special set. ~~) * z @ Ce Bos 3 EE x ~ =] = on ~ e_ > — = — =) —— ie) apes} nn = i— —% a =et Sold by leading shops in the largest cities. If no store is convenient, buy dire from us. Distributors wanted. oe ox 3 wo Made by ScoTT Propucts Co. 327A Bay Street - San Francisco We aiso make the Scott Combination Tabie and Table Top for Mah Jongg and sell sets of the ancient Chinese game and all accessories. — [fos ea 8e | The Pease Clothestree (Patented and patents pending) ARMS CLOSED Give this step-saving gift for Christmas The Pease Clothestree, when open, stands in 35 inches of space. iti is 5 ft., roin. tall with FORTY FEET HANGING AREA (ample for average ironing). IT REVOLVES; you can iron sitting down. Use one or any of the 36 arms. IT ROLLS ANYWHERE. Dry or air your clothes on it over register, by radia- tor or in the sun. Kept in corner when notin use. Very useful where there are small children,—in the sewing room— Saves steps, stooping and bending. Hard wood; nothing to rust or stain. Will serve you for years. A wonderful gift to any woman. Write NOW for folder. Men- tion dealer’s name. H. G. Wood Mfg. Company Dept. L-2 Dexter, Maine est See 80" Se TUTTI ATH LIILLMU LOIN LILO LLU LL LILLIA L ULL ULL LCL LULL LULL LLL LL LLL A DINNERor EVENING GOWN by AGNES in CREPE DE FOUR WITH TIERS of BLENDING TONES PRESENTED in th DESIRED COLORS EXPLAINING in CALIBRE and CHARACTER WHY WOMEN LABEL DISCERNING SEEK THE at the SMARTEST SHOPS—or WRITE for INFORMATION ) ! Rarnett ID FP SSeES 6-8 W32er St, New York HHTINNLUUOUOUEUONVOUVNUNUOUEU000000 0000000000000 FRUEUOOEAEUO OOOO As Fresh as a Rose | and as Smooth as Velvet '| are the descriptions of the complexion acquired by the use of Wests BEAUTY PRODUCTS The Creams, Youth Lo- tion and Skin Food restore to the skin the smoothness of a velvet background against which the Rouges, Powders and Eye Shade produce the glowing freshness and the bloom of a living rose. Pure ingredients are their best recommendations. Used by American women for over fifteen years | PRICE LIST | —-¢ p— Red Red Rouge....... .$1.50 3 shades, Light, Medium and Dark Paste for the lips. Stays on 24 hours | “Kiss me, it won't come of -. ee, Liquid Rouge for the ‘lips Aurore Rouge (large)...... 3.00 A Powder Rouge for the face Stays on 24 hours Aurore Rouge (small)..... 1.50 Yoh Loin... 6. ...... 4.25 Desti Face Powder, Shades Sunburn, Mauve, Ochre, Rachel, Chair, Blanche... 2.25 Eye Shade (Blue or Buff). 1.50 Desti Vanishin ng Cream... 2.25 An excellent powder base Desti Cleansing Cream... 2.25 For removing face blemishes Desti Skin Food. ........ 2 For reviving dry and dead looking aa Desti Special Youth Un- CMMI iio e Stan's oe es 2.25 In conjunction with Youth Lotion | gives skin a healthy look If not at your dealer write direct to LIONEL TRADING COMPANY, Inc. | 320 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK U. S. Distributors

Page 164

PB elly F eads The Ideal Gift eA CCESSOR IES make the smart costume. The thoughtful selection of just the right shade of Betty Beads captures the desired effect of originality and style. Provide yourself—at nominal cost—with an adequate assortment—for your own and gift use. Betty Beads for the Little Miss bring delight to the hearts of the tiny tot and school girl, too. Each set, packed in an attractive gift box, consists of necklace and bracelet ‘ ‘Just Like Mother's.” Necklaces—One Dollar the Strand Bracelets—One Dollar the Pair Children’s Sets—One Dollar Each Betty Propucts Co. 41 Edwards Street, Hartford, Conn. New York Office: CONDIT & RATTEY, 9 Maiden Lane At leading stores — or sent direct if your dealer cannot supply you. None Genuine Without This Tag. Sy Mie @3H ca hs. Nock ‘klaces, VOGUE SPORTS CLOTHES (Continued from page 55) 'THE NEWEST | suéde eminently desirable for the South. And these are only a few examples out of many that might be cited. The question of type comes in again at this point, however. While the tweed-skirt woman will choose the harsher-finished honest-to-goodness leathers, the older woman will find suéde much less try- ing, as will the little blonde who never cares for herself in anything uncom- promisingly useful. THE NEW SWEATERS Suits may be of many fabrics— tweeds, jersey, kasha, or the knitted materials. This year, if one chooses a knitted suit in plain colour, one is apt to wear with it, in lieu of a blouse, a slip-on patterned sweater, the cor- rect length of which is just to the hip-line. Here is economy, as well as smartness, since most of us _ possess such a sweater from last season, when stripes and Navajo designs were so good. We should be careful, of course, to have some shade in the pattern match or harmonize with the colour of the suit. The word sweater opens up a most interesting field. Chanel makes them of the material used in men’s silk-and- wool undershirts, and binds the edges. The wool sweater split down the front and lined with crépe is seen every- where. Slip-over sweaters are multi- form in colour and line. Some of the newest are made of wool embroi- dered on a coarse mesh somewhat like filet lace or tapestry, giving a very chic effect of wool lace with designs much like those on Fair Isle sweaters, though the work is quite different. These are lined with crépe de Chine and tied with a strip of the crépe. The sweater worn with a tweed skirt is another thing—much simpler, and as mannish as possible. This, by the way, is the golf costume par excellence, unless one favours an _ absolutely straight knitted dress wide enough to permit a full swing or one in kasha with a bit of colour supplied by tie and stockings. This season, the tweed skirt sometimes shows a circula. front breadth and a straight back extending well over the hips, so that the slim line is maintained while the front flare pro- vides the width. ‘The same model, developed in white homespun, has been prepared for the South, where it will be worn with a silk slip-on sweater. The pleated skirt also retains its vogue for country wear, and, since no sports blouse but the overblouse is smart, the skirt is sometimes hung from a low waist-line by a band an inch wide, like an old-fashioned little girl’s petticoat that buttoned on each hip. This stopping of the pleats before they reach the waist does away with a great deal of bunchiness—for which we have to thank Chanel. Another clever idea credited to Chanel was launched in the skating costume shown on page 53, where green kasha is fashioned into a demure high-necked blouse buttoning down the front and a wrap-around skirt of the same material which looks equally demure until the wearer swings out on the ice, when the grey crépe facing flips backward, and lo and be- hold—green kasha pantalettes, as straight and uncompromising as trousers! The sports hat of the moment in France is the cloche, and the cloche only—a cloche as guiltless of trimming as the day it was born. Sometimes, the crown is in a single piece; some- times, in four. In addition to this cloche, America is offered a hat of soft felt or velours, little and round, with a crown that outlines the shape of the head and a brim that rolls back from the face. Sometimes, this hat has a ribbon; sometimes, none. For motoring or for windy days in the country, some wo- men are adding a very thin lace veil— quite a new feature, and one that is taken up by the onlooker rather than the active sportswoman. In France, a very tiny veil of coarser mesh is sometimes worn, a veil that exists merely for decorative purposes and that stops just above the nose. With a brown costume, the veil chosen would be brown, but one might wear blue with grey, if one were a born blue lover. Shoes, taken generally, must, of course, be low-heeled for country wear. This does not necessarily mean a broad, flat heel, for some women, accustomed for years to French heels in town, can not wear the flat heel with any com- fort. For them, a good Cuban heel js quite acceptable. Really high heels are just as much out of place in the coun- try as shiny materials or diamonds. The country is the kingdom of the Oxford in all its developments. Peel is showing one with an absolutely square toe, most amusing on little foot, but not to be thought of by any one who does not wish the attention of the whole gallery focussed on it. The models from Perugia on page 57 show a great deal of variety—exag- geratedly large, flat heels, no heels, heels that are only moderately low and a very new heel that sticks out behind like a young snow-shoe. This last, Perugia says, is a great success. Among them all, one should find something for every taste and every occasion. STOCKINGS ARE WOOL OR LISLE The smartest stockings are those with bold. figures, in blends of brown or grey. If they aren’t wool or cash- mere, they are lisle, for the French- woman has taken this erstwhile Cinder- ella of the hosiery world quite into favour. Not only does she choose its patterned vagaries for country, but she thinks well of lisle in plain colours for a travelling stocking or even for in- formal morning wear in town. It is hardly necessary.to say that no smart woman ever wears silk stockings with wool country clothes. That would be t. break the whole ten command- ments of good form at once. There remains to be considered the question of accessories. Gloves for the country are not the finely made suéde gauntlets one chooses for the city, but a heavier doeskin glove with a rough- and-ready hand-sewn effect. Golfing gloves are of doeskin too, with tan leather reenforcements and _ cut-out knuckles or of tan chamois with red- brown leather palms and_ covered knuckles. No woman should ever play golf without wearing these gloves, for they prevent all blisters and keep the sand necessary for making tees out of the finger-nails. Smart women of to-day are using men’s handkerchiefs with their sports clothes. These are often in solid colour with narrow black hems and black initials, or they have a white ground, with coloured stripes that harmonize with the costume. The question of jewellery would not seem to need discussion, and yet one sees so many defiant sinners who know better, so many lazy sinners who seem to have forgotten, that a word may not be amiss. With one’s golf clothes, no jewellery of any kind is ever per- missible. With the less severe type of country clothes, pearls are always in order, and an occasional string of beads is seen—generally in Chanel’s green- blue or in amber. Bracelets and ear- rings do not accord with a woollen (Continued on page 150)

Page 165

for December Il Hand Woven Frocks for Little Girls Shuttle-Craft “Linsey-Woolsey’’ has all the warmth and wearing qualities which made this material so popular in early Colonial days. It is very beautiful in appearance. Dresses are hand woven to order in a variety of colors and patterns. No two dresses are ever just alike. 6 to 10 year sizes $25 Our folder giving full particulars and suggestions gladly sent on request. The Shuttle-Craft Co., Inc. Dept. 4 ~ 1416 Mass. Ave. Cambridge Massachusetts SAY UNDERWEAR — SAY MUNSINGWEAR “Moderne” Wig as made by Manuel is an entirely new development of the wigmaker’s art. As natural as your own hair. Lighter and more easily dressed than a Transformation. The Acme of Convenience. Ideal for Street or Sport Wear. With or without Manuel ‘sight proof” parting. Prices are extremely moderate; quality considered. Transformations, with- out part, $35 up. Transformations, with * ‘sight-proof” part, $50 up. The “Moderne” Wig, $60 up, price de- pending upon color, length and weight. Illustrated booklet upon request. NEW YORK 29 East 48°" Street NUNSING WEAR “e* ‘Vests and &3loomers Gi fracefully achieve the Medish Slendenized Silhouette © 1922 THE mumSiNOWEAR CORPORATION MINNEAPOLIS,MINN The Holidays— Christmas Parties You'll wear a lovely party frock Why not wear a party face? Your shimmering brocades, your floating chiffons, your costly jewels will not hide nor disguise an ill- kept complexion. Secure at once The Valaze Preparations suited to your skin heeds. bine fikeviin World-famed Beauty Expert suggests the following as essential and indispensable preparations for skin health. If Your Skin is Dry Valaze Pasteurized Cream—the wonder cream to cleanse, massage and nourish $1.00 Valaze Skin Toning Lotion Spe- cial—an_ anti-wrinkle lotion to brace and brighten the skin. . $2.25 If Your Skin is Blemished Valaze Acne Cream — corrects pimples and eruptions, soothes, purifies, clears the complexion.$2.00 Valaze Blackhead and Open Pore Paste—dislodges blackheads, refines the pores. For sensitive, thin skins, use Blackhead and Open Pore Paste Special (each) If Your Skin is Oily Valaze Beauty -Grains—a soap substitute, penetrative, purifies and refines the skin $1.00 Valaze Liquidine—a cooling as- tringent, reduces the pores, removes blackheads and prevents shine.$2.00 If Your Skin is Lined Valaze Roman Jelly—consolidates y and strengthens relaxed muscles. $1.00 Valaze Anthosoros—a rich feed- ing cream and a specialty for cor- recting and preventing crow’s-feet and other lines: .)...:........: $1.75 Send this advertisement for my latest booklet, ‘‘Beauty for Every Woman,” outlining home treatment for every skin condition. Helena Rubinstein 46 West 57th Street, New York City 30 N. Michigan Avenue, Chicago 1540 Washington Blvd., Detroit 24 Grafton Street, W., London 126 Rue F’brg., St. Honore, Paris

Page 166

per your ace foot tetward in the new. models in Salt’s Siberian Caracul and Pec a Seal. The lustre and luxury of genuine animal furs are - outrivalled in these marvelous creations. And, _ animal furs, Salt’s Fabric-Furs have a strong woven back that insures long life and a healthful circulation of air. Yet their cost is but a small part of what you would pay even for medium grade animal furs. Enjoy fur warmth and the smart appearance _ of the costliest furs. Ask your retailer to show You the newest models in Salt’s Fabric-Furs.. (SALTS: THE NEWEST VOGUE SPORTS CLOTHES (Continued from page 148) country suit, but may be worn with a soft little dress. But—don’t wear bracelets, earrings, and a chain all at once. It is better to be conservative! One last word—the woman who starts off for a week-end in the country and plans to travel by train is faced with an interesting problem. She must not appear in the city in unequivocally country clothes. Nor will she feel happy to step off the train and into her hostess’s car in anything too ob- WHAT em viously of the town. Black is not a wise choice for the train, in any case; nor is a crushable material Or one that gathers dust. So she chooses something in brown, let us say, some- thing she would wear in the morning if she had not decided to leave the city—a loose coat, perhaps, a straight, simple dress, a tight hat, low- heeled shoes—inconspicuous, appropriate, com- fortable. And there is nothing for the porter to brush off but his tip. R EA D (Continued from page 146) but honourable, methods. Though we would not put it with the grand con- descension of Benedetto Croce, who says of Walter Scott: “an author who delighted our fathers and grandfathers, and who for this reason if for no other, deserves courteous treatment from their children and grandchildren,” but it is true, nevertheless, that authors or poets who attempt to revive time- worn forms and methods in this day of the all-daring stylist are not without courage. In Ellen Prior, it has been done, we think, successfully. This is the story of a young, New England girl who is torn mercilessly between the two great, but conflicting, loves of her life. The climax is so highly tragic as to be daring. Verse of any great length almost inevitably runs dry at one point or another, but Ellen Prior is pure poetry, touched always with the true poetic feeling. The first kiss of Ellen and Rob Wayne is an ex- quisite bit of descriptive verse: And he whom she’d not seen an hour before Drank, thirsty, at her lips, and more and more Deeply she knew him drowned in love, and prayed To meet him sweetlier, all unafraid. The world of silence clashed about her ears Strange cymbals of mad, melting music. Fears Of what she knew not, died. Her eyes grew dim Under their heavy lids. She leaned on him Eager to feed his starving lips, the rage Of their half-syllabled murmurs. To assuage His need oj her, to quench that wasting fire In soft comphance with her pure desire. Near them a bird sang piercingly. They started Sharply awake, and on a kiss they parted. The entire poem, save for a few re- grettable intervals of conversation, is luxuriant with rich and _ beautiful phrases. As for the plot—that is hard- ly an item. The incident must always far outweigh the narrative, if the vehicle be poetry. ANIMAL PERSONALITIES by SAMUEL A. DERIEUX PUBLISHED BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE This book comes as an answer tc the oft-pondered question: “Have ani- mals souls?” Few will continue to doubt after reading Mr. Derieux on the subject. We have frequently read about the habits and various physical aspects of animals, both wild and domestic, but few books have made such a pains- taking study of the mental and spiritu- al (true animal-lovers will not laugh at the use of the word) side of our four-footed brethren. Mr. Derieux goes into this study in the most fascinating manner, enlivening these annals with a thousand incidents from animal life. The Bronx Zoo will hold a new inter- est for those who have read Animal Personalities and learned the histories, names, tricks, and peculiarities of its more celebrated inmates. But that is only a small part of the treasures to be found in this book. The training of hunting-dogs, the human traits : farmyard creatures, and the well-nigh unbelievable marvels of ant life are all told in the most delightfully whimsical way, yet with that sympathy and feel- ing which lovers of animals will appre- ciate and understand. W. L. W. AT LAST! It has arrived—Vogue’s Book of Etiquette, a book that is simple, sensible, and frankly entertaining in its way of advising humanity to rely upon plain common sense in moments of doubt or vexation. It is charm- ingly told in a friendly and sympathetic manner, and many of its chapters are given the spice of an amusing anecdote. It would make a delightful Christmas gift to one’s best friend; she would appreciate the humour, the intelligence, and the quaint informality of compo- sition that pervade its sage and kindly counsel.

Page 167

lot a Case; one DOSES ome- Ning _ the ight, eled om- the hey ley is ful rd- ys he te ll- December I For your Draperies, Furniture, Walls GUARANTEED | Silky Sunfast Fabrics | The silky loveliness of KAPOCK dispels thoughts of bleak win- ter. Its luxuriousness, its exquisite colors make homes more It is the inviting, more snug, more cheerful, more interesting. | ideal silky fabric for draperies, furniture and walls. Send 10c in cash for New Drapery KAPOCK SKETCH BOOK Beautifully illustrated in colors: A. THEO. ABBOTT & CO. Dept. D Philadelphia, Pa. eA (hristmas Plum Pudding and from RITHE four andeighty years New York’s fairest and gayest have seer to it that their Christmas Plum Puddings and their Christmas Cakes come from Dean’s? Ala New York’s old and new families of consequence fee] that nothing but Dean’s, in the way of plum puddings and cakes, really expresses Christmas. Why? There just are no otherPlum Puddings and Christmas Cakes like Dean’s. Orders of Three Dollars or more prepaid East of Mississippi 628 Fifth Avenue E, gentle lady, hast known that for s, you really must order early now. Prices on request New Established 1839 brass ai OR the social events of the Christmas holidays, and of every other season, a maid smartly attired in a Dix-Make Uniform adds the final touch of correctness. Sold by leading department stores, with the Dix label in every garment. Write for our latest catalog, Number 33. HENRY A. DIX & SONS CORPORATION Dix Buitpinc, New York po par’ eneeh, Mone 396. The new one- piece straight-line uniform of fine Dix quality black sates} cotton alpaca. Very be- ses Vie etka $5.50

Page 168

152 ei jf our JS hroat like this & -orthis —7 OT this / Your Age is Written in the Line of Your Throat! But I can correct that horrid underchin look! I can lift the drooping corners of the mouth! I can strengthen those tired, sagging muscles on either side of the face—and by the proper application of my stimu- lating and strengthening preparations—lift the whole contour, and make you look years younger! Come in and have my Special Treatment—or write describing your facial condition, and I will prescribe a home treatment and tell you what preparations to buy in your home city. (Derby Gro Order these Preparations at your leading shop or write direct to Dorothy Gray To Correct the Droop Under the Chin— Dorothy Gray's Russian Astringent. Cream— tightens the skin without drying it. $3 and 50. For Relaxed, Lifeless, Sallow, Shriveled Skin—Dorothy Gray's Circulation Ointment —brings the natural color into the cheeks. $3.25 and $6. For Wrinkles About the Eyes— Dorothy's Gray's Pour La Patte d’Oie—-an unusual paste for re- moving wrinkles about the eyes and strengthening tissues. irmly adhesive during sleep. $1.50 and $4. For Thin Faces—Dorothy Gray's Special Skin Food—makes a thin face round and youthful and fills out the hollows. $1 and $1.75. For Over-sensitive Skin and Dry Skins—Dorothy Gray’s Tissue Cream—a skin food that will not fatten the face but gives a dry skin the necessary nourishment. $1 and $1.75. cA Sensible Gift —a too fat chin can be r For Cleansing the Pores—Dorothy Gray's Cleaning Cream—makes the skin smooth and velvety. $1, $1.75 and $2.75. For amigo Pores—Dorothy Gray's Orange Flower Tonic —refines the texture of the skin and whitens and brightens the color. Fine for puffiness under the eyes. $.85 and $1.75. For Oily Skin and Shiny Nose —Dorothy Gray's Russian As- tringent—tightens relaxed mus- cles. Corrects a moist and oily skin. For Summer’s Tan—Dorothy Gray's Russian Bleach Cream— removes tan and freckles and bleaches the hands. $2. For more stubborn discolorations. Extra Bleach Ointment. $3. Powders—for every variety of'skin. Impalpable, cling- ing, deliciously scented. All shades, including the violet and green that Paris wears at night. Moisture proof— healing, protective to the skin. $1.50 and $3. uced. My Book Tells How! —2 thin face can be made plump. e pores and coarse skin can be made fine. Eyes can be made bright and the lines about them eradicated. —a sallow skin can be made shades lighter. —that droop under the chin removed. Firm muscles indicate youth. They can be yours! Write to-day for my book—‘“‘ The Story of Dorothy Gray” Dorothy Gray 749 FIFTH AVENUE aNew Atlantic City ‘ 1643 Boardwalk F course, you know and admire and love daytime Fifth Avenue to the extent and capacity that it should be known and admired and loved—in the daylight. But, I chal- lenge you, do you know Fifth Avenue in the lamplight? You need not answer. I know you do not. You are one of those thousands who desert it at sundown for the great white arc of Broadway. You think you know your New York, from the Rendezvous that Gilda Grey made famous to Wanamaker’s “Au Quatriéme,” from Brentano’s liter- ary Lorelei to the Marguéry, where food and conversation are fashionable to the nth degree. You are quite well acquainted with Claremont Inn, where one may overlook the Hudson, if not the bill, with the theatre that politely asks its audience, “Aren’t We All?;” with, in fact, every bit of the metrop- olis that is worth knowing at all, fash- ionable or Bohemian. But, I insist, you do not know New York till you have wandered up or down Fifth Avenue in the dusk. AN AVENUE CONTROVERSY “Why on earth,” you exclaim rather irritably, “should any one want to walk in Fifth Avenue after dark! It is a negligible quality. None of the shops are open. Nor the banks,” you add as an afterthought. I admit that such may be the case, is the case, to be precise, but would put a question to you in turn, “Why do you frequent the art galleries, the convent halls, the beauty shops?” “Why? Why, because I am forever in pursuit of beauty, in whatever form it may be presented,” you answer rather high-handedly. “Well, then, my dear pursuer of the esthetic,” I should be permitted to re- tort, “you can not possibly afford to overlook the majestic beauty of a Fifth Avenue night.” It is quite wondrous, this nocturnal Fifth Avenue, an onyx-black ribbon, diamond-studded, a study in light and shade for a Joseph Pennell medium. There is no beginning, no end, no dis- tinguishable horizon, north or south, just a vanishing distance of silence as vibrating as its own day-noises. It is hard to reconcile this strangely quiet avenue with its better-known position in life—that of a centre of activity. One is sure one must have strayed into a beautiful foreign city of the Con- tinent, where subways and_ speed- ometers are not the order of the day. This unfamiliar highway of dusk seems a million miles away from the Times Square and thereabouts of electrical dis- plays and songs that float from bril- liantly lighted doorways of music shops to captivate the attention of modern dwellers of the ‘Tower of Babel. The lions of the Library crystallize into view, blurred white monuments to achievement. How peculiarly disdain- ful are these animals in the daylight, as though, angered at having been put on a pedestal by mankind, they intend now never to come down off it, but to regard the passing throngs with con- temptuous indifference. The circling pigeons of noonday know this haughty expression to be pure camouflage, for they fly around and about them, ig- noring face values to search for human friends and crumbs among the dozens of men with whom they come to have almost a speaking acquaintance, so trustful are they. After a few more blocks of travel, one becomes unconsciously conscious of a side issue, standing as at attention, yet appearing with alarming weirdness at every block that one traverses. One is aroused from meditation with the rapidity of the alarmed to notice in VOGUE (‘FIFTH AVENUE NIGHT? bewildered amazement that the side issue is a vehicle, an old-fashioned cab with duplicates, or reproductions, of whatever one would call noticeable re. occurrences, at frequent intervals, wait. ing, with apparently undying optimism, or a passenger. “Good gracious!” one thinks, “what a remarkable Pollyanna-Coué combined state of mind!” One anxiously gazes ahead for the sign of the next, and with the inevitableness of Mark Sabre’s winter being followed by spring, there was another, yet another, and what appeared to be others in the distance. It was as though horse, cab, and driver were carved out of black marble and planted, like “Civic Virtue,” jn view of the passer-by, whether he would or no. We—for I was not alone at that lengthening hour — stopped opposite one of these immovable equestrian tableaux, stared, hesitated, and were lost, for part of the tableau suddenly smiled an Irish smile and said, “Sure, miss, "tis a foine night for a ride.” [ agreed, and we entered the cab. What else could one do? I would as soon stage a “Romeo and Juliet” play with- out the balcony as repulse such beatific amiability. The Tortoise and the Hare is a wondrous tale to childish ears, ending as all good tales should end, but its parallel could hardly be found in that soporific animal versus the motors of to-day. Nevertheless, it was a most soothing sensation to be moving at a snail’s pace, not to say a distinctly novel one. One need only close one’s eyes to imagine oneself in Cranford days and crinolines, when progress moved ir accord with hoops and vapours. It was distinctly necessary to close one’s eyes, however, for, to the right of one and to the left, mammoth buildings of nightly solitude dispelled any illusion to the times of belles and beaux, hemming in the Avenue until it seemed to narrow to nothingness. Spencer’s “There reigned a _ solemn silence over all” aptly described aban- doned Fifth Avenue. “THE RACE IS TO THE SWIFT” Hurdling against the slumbering still- ness, the temporary abstractness of existence, came a disquieting rumbling. Something huge and greenish and malevolent of eye thundered down, careening from one side of the street to the other. Immediately behind it came another monstrous demon of speed. “Mon Dieu!” my companion ex- claimed, “it is those accursed buses racing to see which can arrive at Wash- ington Square two and a half seconds before the other!” “Mon Dieu, indeed,” I retorted, ex- ultantly. “I wonder which will get there first, number four or number five?” “Well! I thought you said fifteen minutes ago——” “I did. I did say fifteen minutes ago that I hated speed, rapid locomo- tion, what you will. That was fifteen minutes ago. Now, I wish I were on one of those buses. Did you ever see anything so magnificently reckless?” “Tnconsistency, thy name——” “Really? I have a perfect right to change——” “To the Grand Central, please,” my escort said to the driver of the tortoise. a “If you must have speed, there is nothing so apropos at present as a homeward-bound New York, New Haveh, and Hartford express.” “But,” I insisted, “women are con- sistent.” “In what?” “Inconsistency!”

Page 169

side cab, , Or e Te Wait- lism, vhat ined azes and, re’s here vhat December 1 If it isn’t FULL-FASHIONED it’s o/d-fashioned! WNIT Swimming Suits are FULL-FASHIONED shaped-in-the-knitting-to-fit F fine soft yarn—warm and quick-drying —its form lastingly BUILT-IN— [WNIT is for men and women who demand quality in the foundation of a garment as well as in its finish. D. NUSBAUM & CO. BROOKLYN KNITTING CO. Mills: Union Course, L.I. Sales Office (wholesale) 347 Fifth Ave., N.Y. Wit Bathing Suits and NWNT Sweaters for Men and Women dail KNIT t MARK: BATHI Suite’ - Beau MondeBeauty Box Offering that rare charm of utility beautified One of this season's most novel offerings to ex- clusive tastes, is this charming pendant wrist vanity—a combination compact and purse. It has that inspired style touch which charac- terizes all Blackinton creations—truly Parisian in design and purpose, modified by the American spirit of practicality. Made in sterling silver and 14 karat solid gold, tastefully decorated, it contains in conve- nient compass, poudre, rouge, lip- stick, mirror and an ample purse for a considerable sum of money. Refills for compact and lip-stick always are procurable anywhere. The fine, durable leather wrist-strap is in the very latest vogue, matches the __ inside trimmings and fits the wrist comfortably without chafing. Being shown this season, for the first time, by most fine retail jewelry stores, but any quality jeweler can obtain them. R. BLACKINTON & CO. Manufacturing Silversmiths and Goldsmiths NORTH ATTLEBORO, MASS. New York Office 8 West 40th Street IR I-B- IC) elf 2 EAST 461TH STREET NEW YORK CITY HERE is nothing quite | so beautiful in Mary Walls’ Lanvin coilec- tion as this “robe de style” known as the most extrava- gant Lanvin of the season. Parchment coloured taffeta embroidered in a myriad of soft tones reminds one of a rare illuminated book of other days. The skunk edg- ing and the naitier blue ribbons make a colour har- mony of real distinction. Mary Walls believes that this is one of the most dis- tinguished frocks she has ever imported and that it is ideal for the big events of the débutante season. She has already copied it in a beautiful white and silver brocade as a com- ing-out frock and_ will gladly furnish her prices to copy it again, upon ap- plication. ~ a miei HA TOH. RF. H. THE PRINCE OF WALE3 “BOND STREET A New Perfume by Yardley ‘ROND STREET” possesses charm, witchery, dis- tinction. Instant appreciation has been accorded this fine perfume, not only in the regal street for which it was named, but by particular people everywhere. A trial size—cut-glass bottle with gold-plated cap for purse or vanity bag, one dollar at all good stores. For a dainty sample of ‘BOND STREET” face powder and sachet card send 10c to our AMERICAN BRANCH, 15 W. 36th St., New York. YARDLEY, 8 New Bond Street, LONDON Makers of Yaratey’s Incomparable Lavender Soap ———————L een

Page 170

-Announcin “Parfums he ee a susan ee ete te Paris AMBRE de JADIS CHYPRE du miL DOUX JASMIN PARFUM MASKEE SR re ere sence napesonemer pmramans HE famous Ciro has long been rec- ognized in Paris as one of the small group who have raised the art of the perfumer to its highest pinnacle. Hitherto unattainable, ex- cept in Paris, this artist’s creations of rare and sub- tle odors are now being imported into America. On sale in the better shops, they will particularly in- terest those who are look- ing for gifts— notnecessarily expensive, but of rare distinc- tion. Extracts and Toilet Waters GUY T. GIBSON, Inc. SOLE IMPORTER 565 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK crease P EE BAKST ANALYSES (Continued hension. And, should we hesitate, we need only remember that the realiza- tion of no happiness under heaven is as perfect as its anticipation. We all know that the same woman, dressed first in white, then in black, will appear much larger in the first colour. But there are other instances. Vertical stripes give the illusion of be- ing infinitely thinner than a figure in horizontal ones. My two sketches on page 61 prove this fact conclusively, and the couturier must keep it con- stantly in mind, for it may prove use- ful in a thousand different ways. It was this principle that recently enabled me to disguise completely the silhouette of a great artist whose figure was not so slender as it might have been, but who had been chosen to play the part of an insinuating, ser- pentine woman. My success was so much greater than I dared hope for that, when the curtain rose, the mem- bers of her audience did not recognize her, although they soon realized who were her admirers and who her jealous comrades. Now, let me explain what I did with this figure which at first sight seemed very far from possessing supple lines. The artist was to play the part of Judith, and my hope lay in the fact that the modern version of this ancient story would not compel me to be archeologically correct (as if it were ever necessary to be that in the theatre!). If you study my first costume for Judith, you will quickly see that, from the point of view of line, I have re- versed matters. By using the narrow points of black triangles at the upper part of the chest, I have made the lower part seem smaller. As for the hips, I simply draped them in black and used white for the rest of the costume. Moreover, I was aided by the fabrics themselves, the white being a light, semitransparent muslin, and the black opaque and shiny, a material which all the world knows under the name of “moire antique.” ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL METHOD For the second costume in Judith, I also deliberately confused the lines, but by a different process. I cut the corsage very high and fastened float- ing draperies of muslin and voile about the figure. I placed dark panels over the hips and a girdle with a long, black piece that hung down to the bottom of the skirt behind and gave an excellent effect of length and slender- ness. These, however, were almost des- perate attempts to obtain at any cost the effect required by a scéne de théatre, and, if black moire is judged too severe for use in every-day life, the darkest of purple, blue, or green may be substituted, though it must be covered with shining ornaments of some sort in order that the impression shall be virtually the same. The effect produced may not be identical, but it will certainly serve our purpose, which is to conceal unharmonious points. I realize that, to the initiated, there is nothing very new about my theo- ries. I also know that it will be diffi- cult to convince these sceptics who declare with triumphant finality: “You can not make a fat woman appear thin.” But I am most anxious to persuade these doubting gentlemen that they are mistaken. and, for this reason, I sketched the two figures at the bot- tom of page 61. Their measurements are exactly the same, yet the one at- tired in vertical triangles certainly ap- pears slighter than the figure adorned black of illusion or suffer endless appre- VOGUE THE SILHOUETTE from page 61) Do you remem- with horizontal lines. ber how, several years ago, the cou- turiers tried to launch a new mode in which horizontal stripes figured prom- inently? It died a speedy death for reasons obvious to the most unsus- pecting of mortals. THE POTENT EFFECT OF STRIPES Truly, this principle is one which should always be remembered, for it can transform a woman into anything she wants to be—or does not want to be. And to think that, when I made my début in la couture and employed special methods of ornamen- tation to conceal the defects of a wo- man’s figure, I was considered a ruth- less Russian barbarian! Let us now discuss the various ways of improving exaggeratedly large or slender silhouettes. The woman who is very fat—we must face the brutal fact courageously —frequently possesses not only a love- ly face, but hands and feet of faultless beauty. Hence, if one can but con- ceal by appropriate clothes the lines that betray this exaggerated embon- point, it is comparatively easy to pre- sent the illusion of a still graceful woman. But, to accomplish this, Ma- dame must relinquish at the start all idea of wearing gowns intended by the couturier for the extremely slender figure. On this last point, I have gained a great deal of experience by designing innumerable costumes for _ singers. Every one knows what a decided tend- ency to embonpoint these ladies must face, owing to their constant vocal ex- ercising; and the majority of them find it very hard to abandon a type of costume which outlines all too plain- ly their robust silhouettes. Exagger- ated efforts to confine an abundant figure are, to put it frankly, in very bad taste. Not only is it almost im- possible to make such silhouettes ap- pear at their best, but the results are always quite different from what one expects them to be. If a fat woman will only persuade herself to wear costumes made on lines more flowing than those which her slenderer sister affects, she will soon perceive that gracious contours are not so difficult of attainment after all. My advice, in her case, is to wear a kind of light crinoline or hooped skirt in muslin or silk chiffon. The effect of several layers of floating, diaphanous fabric is extremely graceful and deli- cate. Then, if she wishes to adopt costumes of severer cut, let her have recourse to black or to beautiful, heavy satins or deep velvets; these fabrics lend a charming dignity. I remember one singer who came to me some time ago; her figure seemed to present insuperable difficul- ties, but I designed a costume for her which consisted of a huge veil cun- ningly wrapped and draped about her form. The illusion of slenderness was astonishing, and I only regret that this type of costume can not be used in every-day life. But, at least, it is a sign-post pointing in the right direc- tion. The country woman or peasant, usu- ally a robust type, is often far wiser than her city sister in this matter. Take the national costume of Spain, for instance. Observe how subtly suited it is to the Spanish woman’s figure, which is very apt, from thirty years on, to grow stouter year by year. Note how cleverly these women have chosen a skirt very full at the bottom, but fitting tightly at the waist, often made in white with endless flounces (Continued on page 156)

Page 171

December 1 155

1900000000000 0009000 Ree ake ee ae ae ee ae ea es | ee se es es | 5 U 7

=| | Dao A Gift of Health pee | See | ee | eee | oe | Om cocIcoc3c ICICI IC

+] oe | oe | y| me | IIc 5 | ke ICIC i Favorites This Season a | coe | oes | oe | oe | ICI p| ome | CIciIc

+] oe | oe | IOICIC

eee geo e Se Se Se Se oe SeSe5at PERFUMES by GIVIEMME of MILAN F IPAS: Te ee ae! a are flattering to the most luxuriant of P\ om eres the periect gilt for scam | cop | ce | se | se | ee | ce | ee | i ICI IMICICIC your family—or your friend

boudoirs. To those who disdain the

EATURING t f i artificial, the ordinarius—GIVIEMME Be Ne —an ACCURATE Scale A — 5 is a revelation. Rare flowers grown a AS with which to watch the daily Cy the smartest hand- u under the azure skies of Italy yield . : sinticune cornu sli unenieatl C made models of the & their precious essence for Old World ONG: - i. Ith qd : 4) season in the finest of © Royalty—and now, also for American ts | || © ee ee meet ] selected leathers. Ex- # women of royal tastes. ae) =] clusive but not extrava- a G I\ TE) {) | .\ Cc EC : H gant. 7 B( Fak | Laae 5 8 # ( PRONOUNCED G-V-M-A) MILAN Ma E “Tt Detects” ‘i peas ad f GIVIEMME CO., Sole Representative, U.S. A. S DET ; th ws nad rH 119 South Fourth St., Philadelphia ) =<\ = E ECT the changes in 4" i weight that indicate better- it Er ment. | Drown & Clarke} t] SHOES OF DISTINCTION & DETECT the losses that KH] «25 WEST- s7U STREET 6 may mean unsuspected over- ru bE ne Hl NE\ ORA i work or failing health. | Recta respee ee ee en eee ‘ : — DETECT the gains or losses secured through exercise and

————$S—_ 2 —$_ $< DETECT) IT DETECTS

in your bathroom will ive frequent ACCU- ATE weight read- ings,—as often as you care to step onto the platform. DETECTO is com- act,—less than 12 inches wide, high and long. Finished in hard white enamel. The CLEARLY MARKED DIAL is easily read without stooping. It REG- ISTERS ACCU- RATELY EACH AND EVERY POUND up to 300 POUNDS. KA | Absolute | Guarantee

How to care for Dull Hair You cannot expect hair which is naturally devoid of lustre to look brilliant or exceptionally bright after an ordinary sham- poo. You must use a shampoo that is different—a shampoo that will add real beauty to your hair— GOLDEN GLINT Shampoo. | This shampoo will make your hair look so much prettier, so much more attractive, that you will just love to fuss with it. In addition to the clean freshness any good shampoo gives, it offers something unusual, something new, something more than a promise. This “something” is a secret you'll discover with your first Golden Glint Shampoo. 25¢ a package at toilet counters or direct. * * * J. W. Kosi Co., 648 Rainier Ave., Seattle, Wash. What shall J give ?

There’s Dad and Aunt Sue and ever so many others to think of. It just seems as if already they have everything imaginable. The prob- lem would, indeed, be a perplexing one if it weren't for

FOR ARAINY nay, “Cthe Perfect Gripbreila ateeched _—. P : { The cAnswer to Every Gift Question ! ing accuracy for a lifetime. TUK AWAY is an entirely new idea in folding umbrella construction. As simple to operate as an ordinary umbrella but so small it can easily tucked away in grip, desk drawer or under the seat of your car. Guaran- teed against defects. In black and colored fabrics with distinctive handles for men and women. For the BEST Folding Umbrella—Insist upon TUKAWAY! If your dealer cannot supply you, write to Dept. E SIEGEL-ROTHSCHILD & COMPANY Makers of “Siroco’” Umbrellas, Parasols and Canes Booklet I on request containing description | |. and tables of correct © weights for ages and heights. Keep a daily~ weight chart. i Sold in the better stores, or order direct from us. $15 Delivered East of Mississippi River New YorK BALTIMORE

THE JACOBS BROTHERS CO., Inc., 15 Hudson Street, New York City. Enclosed find $15 (Fifteen Dollars)—check or money order—for which send me one DE- TECTO Bath Room Scale. It is understood that I may return it after 15 days’ trial, if |

Golden Glint paw express charges prepaid, for full re- MD c caidaccdeay tend ned dg mae tune SHAMPOO Sideee bnwiececeeeugwiesedaeduceudaseees

Page 172

ee ee nee THE MOST WELCOME GIFT Les Parfums de Gueldy PARIS N the mysterious fragrance of the ex- quisite odeurs de Gueldy is expressed the affection of the giver’s heart. A gift of perfume is long remembered, and remembered so much the longer if it be Gueldy’s, because they are, beyond question, the finest, most original and delicately alluring ever offered to the fastidious American woman. These exquisite perfumes are procurable in many different odeurs, such as: LE TRIOMPHE LE BOIS SACRE LOKI, ANTAR LE PRESTIGE LE LYS ROUGE LE FEUILLERAIE LE JASMIN “Le Triomphe” Flacons de Luxe Two Sizes Packed and sealed in Paris and procurable at all stores selling quality perfumes. GUELDY INC., 21 East 40th Street, New York, N.Y. VOGUE BAKST ANALYSES THE SILHOUETTE (Continued from page 154) that emphasize the supple flexibility of the skirt and make the stoutest woman appear slender. Moreover, when one considers that the Spanish woman is nearly always of tiny stature, one marvels to see her wear so ex- quisitely that high ingenious coiffure surmounted by enormous tortoise-shell combs covered in turn by the long, black mantilla which falls to the waist and attenuates the whole silhouette. The two sketches on page 61 illus- trate my point exactly; I have called them “Les Deux Espagnoles.” Both have the same proportions, the same measurements, but one is tightly en- cased in an underdress which outlines her contours and the other wears her native costume. What a difference there is between them! We must now turn our attention to the thin woman’s silhouette, not the merely slender one, but the outline which is really distressingly thin. Her type of dress differs widely from that of her plumper sisters, but it is quite as simple to explain. First of all, the really lanky woman must conceal two parts of her sil- houette, her forearm and her thigh— even her knee if the bones are large. They will never betray her if she hides them beneath the folds of some lovely, light coloured moire—a fabric infinitely becoming in itself. If all the joints— the arm, the wrist, the ankle, the neck, and the shoulders—are cleverly masked in softly folded mousseline, they form an exquisite framework upon which to build a silhouette. A woman who understood this to perfection was Sarah Bernhardt, who, in the days of her first youth, was ex- ceedingly thin. Her costumes dating from 1882 to 1885 are miracles of ingenious design. This great actress knew better than any one else how to make use of materials to conceal her excessive slenderness. One has only to look at the delicious portrait of her painted at this period of her career by Bastien-Lepage. Where decoration is concerned, one naturally chooses opposite methods from those used for larger silhouettes. Horizontal lines, lamés with large, closely placed designs will give not only the desired illusion, but also a certain splendour, especially if motifs of gold and silver are introduced as in my Greek costume, which is sketched on page 61. According to the same principles, ermine and other light coloured furs are admirably suited to the slender silhouette, while the same furs are utterly useless to the larger woman, endowing her with a majestic quality which is not always the end she seeks. On the other hand, dark fur—fur with long coarse hair like bear, for example, —is extraordinarily becoming to the woman whose figure is slightly inclined to embonpoint. Its barbaric quality blends admirably with her curved and tapering contours, and, if these sombre furs are cleverly contrasted with the long strands of pearls that many wo- men are fortunate enough to possess, the effect is one of ravishing mag- nificence. I feel that I should be avoiding the issue if, before leaving the problem of the silhouette, I failed to answer a question that I know to be on the lips of all my readers. This question which has been raised, discussed, and debated a thousand times has rarely been answered with real frankness. Let us see if we, at least, can not be more honest in our response. Eh bien, here it is: should a woman emphasize or confine her silhouette by means of a corset? This is a problem of which an artist usually prefers not to give a categorical answer. If he should say, as he so often does. that it all depends on the type of figure under discussion, he would be merely begging the question. I prefer to tell you truthfully what I believe to be the correct answer and that is: follow the fashion blindly. Many people will protest at this and say that I am saving myself with an evasion, a pleasantry. But I am quite sincere—for I do homage to the mode, believing that there are grave reasons why we should bow our heads before its all-powerful supremacy. I A LMM ddd ANG, vY r1r”PL ww 5? 6w \ N y This sachet pillow is the very one that was made by Monsieur Guerlain for the Empress Eugénie in 1869, just before the Revolution drove her to London. The pillow is of leaf- green velvet with a black satin centre embroidered with the royal emblems worked in gold and studded with jewels

Page 173

December 1 Her Diary NOVEMBER 30th Peet - SHOECRAFT eg 714 FIFTH AVENUE * e :m- sa er lL no matter how slight the cost, that carries with it the friendly message of thoughtfulness, is always appreciated. That is why Armand Cold Cream Powder has become the happy gift choice of so many 4 women. This wonderful Armand powder— the original cold cream powder, was the first to show women how they could look their loveliest, at all times. Armand is giving them the joy of an attractive appearance, every day in the year. As a gift, it ex- presses your message graciously, perfectly. Included in every dainty little pink-and- white hat-box, is the Armand “Creed of Beauty,” a little booklet that is helping women the world over to possess the charm of a beautiful complexion. Armand Cold Cream Powder is $1.00 everywhere. Armand Compacte, in handsome gold-lacquer box, is $1.00. Other Armand toilet things are 50 cents to $10.00. _ ARMAND—Des Moines COLD CREAM POWDER In The LITTLE PINK & WHITE: BOXES NAAN 157 Between 55th and 56th Sts. > ae AMERICAN STATIONERY Ofall Christmas gifts, none is more tasteful than this. The original © 5 son type of “ paper—for informal | uses. Noted for its sterling quality. Used in better homes everywhere. Name and ad- dress printed on National Bank Bond in rich, dark blue ink. Size of sheet 6x7; envelopes to match. Sold only by mail from Peru, Indiana. No branch plants. Special facilities insure prompt service. Order a So package now. Hemit with order — or, if i ient at the t, we will ship Cc. 0. D. West of Denver and outside of U.S. add 10%. The American Stationery Co. 1221 Park Avenue, Peru, Indiana 200 Sheets 100 Envelopes PRINTED WITH ANY THE AMERICAN STATIONERY COQ., 1221 Park Avenue, Peru, Ind, Send me a pack of 200 sheete and 100 envelopes of American Station- ery to be printed as shown on attached slip. (Note: To avoid errors, write or'print copy plainly.) MONEY REFUNDED IF YOU ARE NOT WHOLLY SATISFIED You vill not have to do this- YOUR brassieres and dress linings are finished with VICTOR Riveted Hook and Eye Tape. The hooks and eyes will outlast the gar- ment. Every garment is guaranteed. You know that sewed-in hooks and eyes will come off after launder- ing. Askfor VICTOR Riveted Hook and Eye Tape —where every hook and eye is riveted to a special tape with a non-rustable rivet. on, * NOT > il ’ | [ioctl ) |B HOOK anol EYE. | TAPE J aE Wh, Wd ww) ye Ty nD il este call — srl Brassieres are all finished with Victor Riveted Hook and Eye Tape GOSSAR Charming Irene Bordoni, now on Broad- way, says of ZIP: “ZIP is delightful, actually destroy- ing the growth with the rocts, simply and absolutely without any irritation. I recommend ZIP.” C’est vraiment le meilleur! “At Deauville, the world-famed fashion re- sort, where the world’s most beautiful women are to be seen, I noted lovely little Irene Bordoni, and she was, to my mind, one of the most attractive in this gay, interesting throng,” says Miss Peggy. ““A few days before she arrived in Deau- ville, I had an interesting little chat with Miss Bordoni at the Hotel du Rhin in Paris.” “ ‘Surely,’ said Miss Bordoni, ‘America must realize by this time that ZIP is by far the best preparation for treating superfluous hair. The Parisienne is following the lead of the well-groomed American woman in keeping her arms fresh and dainty. I have used ZIP and should like to recommend it to every woman in America and Europe who has not heard of it. So simple, perfectly harmless, and it gives one the comforting assurance of being dainty and clean and typically feminine.’ ” ,/ Zi because ITS OUT Infinitely Better It is better, infinitely better, to eliminate your superfluous hair by actually lifting out the roots with the hairs and in this way destroy the growth than to continue using ordinary treatments which merely burn off surface hair and have the same effect as singeing or shaving, throwing the strength back into the roots. ZIP Destroys Hair Roots The ZIP process is the one method by which the hair roots are lifted out of the hair follicles. ZIP is easily applied at home, pleasingly fragrant and absolutely harmless. It leaves the skin soft and smooth, pores contracted, and like magic your skin becomes adorable. For Sale Everywhere or Direct by Mail Guaranteed on money-back basis. Ask for a ZIP treatment at your Beauty Shop. Call at my Salon to have FREE DEMONSTRATION or regular treatment. Yfedlawsg 7aestts 562 Fifth Avenue NEW YORK Dept. 410 (Entrance on 46th Street) Madame Rerthé. Dept. 410, 562 Fifth Ave., New York. I enclose $5.00 (check, money order, bill, stamps) for which kindly send me, in plain wrapper, a pack- age of ZIP on your money- back Guarantee basis. 0) Place a cross here if Cc. O. D. preferred.

Page 174

Each winter more women take part in outdoor sports, and thou- sands have learned that Kotex offers an extraordinary safeguard. These sanitary pads are obtain- able in good stores everywhere. They are easy to carry in the hand baggage—cr, if necessary, can be purchased in the nearest drug, dry goods or department store. Many hotels keep a supply for use of guests. One asks for them by name—no conversation nec- essary at the counter. Kotex are far superior to ordinary pads made of bird's-eye or absorb- ent cotton, because Cellucotton, used exclusively in Kotex, is the most effective absorbent material known to science. This quality of Kotex makes them comfortable, safe and hygienic. They are also easy to dispose of (see simple directions found in each package), and cheap enough to throw away. Regular size, 12 for 65 Hospital size, 6 for 45c (Additional Thickness) Kotex cabinets are being installed in women's rest rooms everywhere —hotels, office buildings, restau- rants, _ theatres, and other places —from which may be obtained one Kotex with two safety pins, in plain wrapper, for 10¢, A MODE FOR NEW tailored mode in jewellery, Ace of severe lines and correct mountings, brings into vogue the bloodstone and the aquamarine, semi- precious stones with a loveliness which has never been fully appreciated before. The bloodstone is a clear, deep red gem which occurs as occasional spots in dark green or leek-green jasper, and its colour suggests warmth and solidity. It is put to many new uses, and is especially favoured by those who are born in March. The old rhyme runs: “March is the harbinger of spring; Who’s born in March shall wisdom bring And be from deadly perils free, If the bloodstone their emblem be.” Bloodstones are now among the smartest semiprecious jewels for wo- men and are particularly lovely mounted in platinum or pierced white or yellow gold. There is a newly de- signed bar-pin with a small central stone and long, narrow, angular ends carved from platinum or formed from the pierced gold. Sometimes a touch of the bloodstone is used as a finish on either end of the bar. The smaller brooches show an oval stone with a plain banding curled at either end into tiny balls of gold giving the effect of grapes between carved leaves and ten- drils. This makes an unusually effec- tive and useful decoration, showing just the touches of colour so often needed to complete and lighten up a rather severe out-of-door costume. THE VERSATILITY OF THE BLOODSTONE A new type of purse mounting which gives a conservative richness, also uses the bloodstone. The lower part of the bag may match the costume or be made of silk, velvet, metal brocade, suéde, or mesh links, as preferred. To go with this, there is a vanity-case, a wrist watch, a chain, and finger-rings of unusual design, all set with blood- stones. The woman who _ possesses either a complete set or the beginning of a set of these “tailored” jewels, has something that may be preserved and handed down as an heirloom, and, at the same time, something that is not too elaborate for practical, every-day use. Among the newest things shown for men are bloodstone scarf-pins, cuff- links, and desk sets. The scarf-pin is unique in shape and mounting. There is a smoothly rounded stone in the centre, with four carved prongs forming a vine pattern and holding the stone firmly in place. This is one of the latest methods of stone settings, not only for scarf-pins, but also for finger-rings and cuff-links. The idea is more artistic than the old style method of using simple bald prongs. These carved claws often take the form of leaves or some other unobtrusive and delicate setting. The desk set is something to be prized for a lifetime. There is a blood- stone in the handle of the paper-cutter and penholder, and’ the pieces used for this purpose are irregular in shape and edged with fine carving, so that the red and green colouring of the stone, both of which are used, gleam forth attrac- tively. There are also corners for the table blotter, a tray, an inkstand, and a paper-weight, all of bloodstone VOGUE SEMIPRECIOUS EVERY DAY that is luxur: ously, mounted in gold. The aquamarine is a sea-blue or sea- green variety of precious beryl, and is shown in the daintiest of the season’s novelties. The limpid beauty of the aquamarine lends itself particularly to striking combinations. With the well- dressed woman, the aquamarine is much valued for afternoon wear, giv- ing the effect of much rarer gems, with- out throwing one open to the charge of overdressing before six o’clock in the evening. There are charming little earrings with aquamarine settings in stud designs or dropped in a series of small mountings to form a pendant pattern. Many times these studs are built up of clusters of small aquama- rines, while the pendants are formed of single gems in faceted pattern. Lovely aquamarine necklaces are shown w hich are made in a single circlet of beads as for pearls; or again, they may follow the Grecian fringe-like necklace, form- ing a gleaming circle around the neck, with or without a simple, but effective front pendant. The sautoir or cross shape is also favoured. THE POPULARITY OF THE AQUAMARINE Hair-ornaments and finger-rings also testify to popularity of the aquamarine. There is a new fillet for the hair made entirely of shining, faceted aquamarines in a single or triple row of gems. Di- rectly in the front is a larger, upstand- ing marquise-cut stone, so arranged that its angle may be altered to suit the profile of the wearer. Sometimes one may choose to use it upstanding in a truly regal fashion, or reversed and dropped below the line of the fillet band. When aquamarines are used in finger- rings, they are often combined with pearls, peridots, or jade. The pearls give a touch that is almost ethereal, while the jades and peridots catch and emphasize the limped marine colours. The aquamarine may be used for more formal wear, combined with dia- monds, emeralds, or sapphires, the lat- ter being used particularly with the bluish aquamarines. Not only are the more familiar styles of brooches, cor- sage ornaments, and pendants made up in this manner, but odd and unusual pieces as well. The season will see a return to favour of the fan, and many of the fan types will be Oriental in sug- gestion, with both bloodstones and aquamarine decorations on the handle. AQUAMARINE JEWELLERY FOR MEN Aquamarine jewellery for men more commonly consists of the jewel simply set in a suitable gold mounting. Aqua- marines may be used in evening dress sets either gold or platinum mounted, for cuff-links, studs, vest buttons, and sometimes also for a watch fob, chain, and watch-case setting. Frequently, only a few of the pieces are used, rather than the complete set. An interesting set for a man’s evening dress has a square-cut aquamarine in each of its pieces, and the platinum mounting is used in an openwork piercing to form an overlay on each gem, with a pointed overlap on each of the four sides of each stone. The effect is rich and un- usual, and such a set is sufficiently conservative to be prized for many years to come. EMMA GARY WALLACE. ask for them by name Sold everywhere Copyright, 1923, Cellucotton Products Company, 166 W. Jackson Boulevard, Chicago; 51 Chambers St. | New York City; Factories at Neenah, Wis. Canadian Office, No. 45 St. Alexander St., Montreal RN, INEXPENSIVE, COMFORTABLE, HYGIENIC and SAFE —~ KOTEX |

Page 175

December I

: :

~9 @2Po~) 0—< 69 0-8, 0 So CF ~2- an Aw

From MARTHE YERLES § a mode that is surely different. Paige interprets it in slipper satin, with feathers of glycerine and coq. Our nearest representative, a store that caters “to the SMARTLY DRESSED Woman,” will be glad to show you the new Paige Hats.

May we send you the name and_ address? CPat (ATS 29 West 38th St., New York In Paris, at 107 Rue Lafayette

A

°

weer YON yen eae ae at sues e Send forour free instrece tive leaflet, “How To Select the Pearls Most Becoming

4) eee” Ti eeveseet*® to You.’?

omy ee uS?. so cg S, b Are Es Men <9 e o5

D2¥G nea

Cg el Re)

Make Her Xmas The DAISY PRODUCTS, Inc. 366 Fifth Avenue New York City -

Gift a DAISY! ADE of black patent leather material, cretonne-lined, light- weight, the Daisy Hat Bag assures positive hat protection against rain, dust and damage. DeLuxe Chain-pull Model, with extra pocket for week-end re- quirements—16, 18 or 20-inch. $5.00. Button Model—16-inch, $3.25. 18-inch, $3.50. 20-inch, $3.75. Sold by all leading Department Stores, Luggage, Millinery and Gift Shops. Shipped direct prepaid for 50 cents additional. ™ “wy Ls aS “ayy. ¥ Me ef, WA ©:

lueburi al Prar 5 or Happiness SOOO rrr on . <r a eg eee <r <<

‘BLUEBIRD PEARLS fire Ha]

*. ee "Those who judge the beauty of all pearls by their knowledge of the natural gems are proud to present BLUEBIRD PEARLS as Christmas gifts. Valued as fine reproductions, but prized even more highly for their inherent beauty, BLUEBIRD PEARLS convey an in- comparable tribute of thoughtfulness. A Guarantee Certi- ficate accompanies each strand. Prices from $400 to $10. THE HENSHEL COMPANY 10 East 34th St., New York City

“Ss eeeees Combination “= No. 47 : Pure cream -white : Opaque, with deep : lustre. 14 kt. white : gold safety clasp, : withlargediamond. : Attractive panelled : top,leathergiftbox, : hand tooled with 22 : kt. gold. : 18 inch, $35.0C 24 inch, $40.00

30 inch, $45.0° (Slightly higher in Canada) Bluebird Pearls are obtainable only at jewelers

nent Wave.

|

You can simplify your Christmas shopping and yet remember eac friend in a really distinctive, but inex- Your mother, daughter, s‘ster or friend will be delighted to receive a box of the dainty and correct pensive, way. PRISCILLA PRINTED STATIONERY 200 Single Sheets, 6 x 7 in. (Printed with 100 Envelopes to match (Same printing on the flap) Send us a list of the names and addresses printed or written very plainly. Enclose $1 for each box (west of Denver $1.10). Within a few days we will mail them to you post- paid, or direct to your friends enclosing your card if furnished. Each set will be in- dividually printed in rich dark Blue ink on White Bond paper. A gift that will delight Schaeffer’s do not merely curl or wave your hair—but also instruct you in the Art of setting your wave or curl so that you may at all times have that appearance of well groomedness which is characteristic of Schaeffer Perma- ee For CurisTMAs Give PRIscILLA STATIONERY PERSONAL name and address)

It costs no /° A new De- partment for onc, J. SCHAEFFER, 7 Schaefier's! CBo © hha 590 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK

anyone; guaranteed to please you. Order today from this advertisement. 110-A High St., HERMAN GOLDBERGER BOSTON, MASS. t In business since 1899

CO/OUR eyes reveal youth or betray your age because Time first registers on the delicate skin about the eyes. You can quickly erase the most stubborn crow s-feet, frown-fur- rows and laughing lines with VAH- DAH CREAM This new nourishing and astringent cream -is es- pecially compounded to restore youth to tired eyes. It quickly ban- ishes the lines caused by time, nerve-strain and worry, and makes the Sensitive skin around your eyes youthfully firm and smooth. $1.00 postpaid with directions for the Quinlan Eye Treatment VAH-DAH CREAM was recently originated by Kathleen Mary Quinlan, creator of the famous Quin- lan Toilet Preparations— a series of creams and lotions each designed to correct a specific skin diff:- culty, such as_ blackheads, coarse pores, freckles, wrinkles, etc. You are invited to consult with Miss Quinlan by letter or per- sonally at her New York Salon. Write for the booklet “Lest Beauty Pass You By—" ‘Kean Mary Guinan Established 1908 665F JifthGvenue New York,

e efo 0 o

Page 176

ee ene eae eee ELUTINA he English Velvet ) Velvet 15 in! FRA HE season's styles, so charming in them- selves, become irresistible when created & from the dusky folds of Velutina, the lovely English velvet. In Velutina’s richness lies a magic touch of flattery akin to the caressing adornment of pearls or the gentle radiance of candlelight. Its lustre is a thing to marvel at! Its soft sur- face charms the finger-tip! Its firmness satisfies the most practical soul, for a special new construc- tion keeps it from crushing like ordinary velvet. You may obtain Velutina in black and all of Fashion’s approved shades (absolutely fast color and fast pile) in the best stores. Be guided by the name Velutina in the selvage. If your dealer cannot supply you, write us and we will give you the name of one who can. N. ERLANGER, BLUMGART & COQ., Inc. 354 Fourth Ave., New York City VOGUE IN THE HUNTING-FIELD (Continued from page 46) presents the foot to her, saying, “Ma- dame, permit me to do you the hon- our of my hunt.” At once, the horns ring out the fanfare called “The Hon- ours of the Foot.” Several other flourishes are given, such as “The Master of the Hunt,” which naturally varies according to the different estab- lishments, or the “Royale,” the “Bour- bon,” the “Grand Condé,” and many other time-honoured calls. The dogs have been held back by leash and whip at a distance from the deerskin, which covers up the meat, but, at a signal from the master, the skin is drawn off, and the whole pack precipitates itself upon the pieces. In the twinkling of an eye, nothing re- mains but the bones, over which the dogs who could not snatch a morsel before are now battling. There are in- deed many battles, and often the dogs are covered with blood when separated. “The Death of the Deer” is then sound- ed, and, perhaps, as the company dis- perses, “The Good-Night,” “The Fare- well of the Huntsmen,” and “The Re- turn to the Kennels.” THE RETURN FROM THE HUNT On most occasions, unless very near their homes, the ladies go back in their carriages or are taken back in the car- riages of their friends, for hunting for a whole day is very fatiguing and the long return on horseback is hard, espe- cially in the cold of winter. For this reason, it is usually left to the grooms to walk the horses back to the stables. Sometimes. a groom has two horses to bring home, for, if the hunt has been long, the rider has probably had a fresh mount held in waiting at some cross-road in the forest. The dogs, which can not be renewed, are rein- forced towards the middle of the day; a kennel boy brings some fifteen hounds, which is really an enormous number since the war; this indicates a proportion of fifteen to eighty. Fifty hounds compose the present-day pack, and, no matter what the great public thinks, hunting is a much-followed sport. It is not always risky or dangerous as it was in the times when the charming Francois I. turned a wild boar loose in the courtyard of the Chateau d’Am- boise one day and finished by plung- ing a sword to the hilt in the heart of the furious beast and seeing him fall dead at the foot of the staircase. Our gentler period does not often see even a wolf hunt: the stag, the boar, and the deer suffice our great hunters, and we are glad to see with what eagerness, following their old family traditions, our modern young women throw them- selves into the sport. It is the more curious. since, from the point of view of the toilette, nothing could show less variety; neither the hair nor any de- tail of elegance must be changed. All the smartness is in that. The fashions are the same that existed twenty or thirty years ago, and, if we wish to be convinced of the straightforward character of the hunting-woman, either as mistress of hounds, like the Duch- esse d’Uzés, or merely as an invited guest, we have only to look at the portrait, reproduced on these pages, of the Duchesse de Chartres, who is really a great lady in every acceptation of the word. Here, we are far enough from all make-up, false smartness, everything, in fact. which is not genuine. From the earliest morning, without softening veil, without aureole of hair, we see the woman as nature intended her to be, both in features and complexion. Exposed to wind and rain for many hours in the saddle, galloping, jumping, often alone trying to rejoin the hunt, she certainly proves her courage, en- durance, and spirit, as well as a perfect simplicity of bearing—since under no pretext must she allow herself the least touch of fancifulness in costume, for this would rob her appearance of its proper chic—, and, as a reward, after her month of bold sport, she will have gained in suppleness, grace, and beauty of colouring. It is claimed that, in our days, a discovery has been made through golf and tennis, and those who play these games try to prove that never before have women lent themselves with so much energy to the healthy life of open air. This is an error, for, since the earliest times, we find noble ladies, beginning with queens, following, for days together, the hunts organized at court. Beyond doubt, Diane de Poitiers, Agnes So rel, and many other beauties who in their old age still inspired love, led this life of sport as ordained in the great resi- dences at Blois, at Chambord, at Amboise, and at Chaumont; otherwise, they would very likely not have pre- served that eager spirit and youthful- ness which seem to be apparent again in more than one of our own genera- tion. Among the advantages realized in the nineteenth century is that of simplified costume. It is incontestable that the tricorne hat shorn of great feathers and the shorter riding-habit skirt are established conveniences. Of course, the colours of women’s habits vary in accordance with what is proper to each Hunt, but the form does not change. There is always the close- fitting jacket with revers, fastened with five buttons in front and two at the back, marking the rather short waist- line. It is often made of scarlet mel- ton, while the skirt is of black whip- cord moulded to the seated figure of the horsewoman—cut, indeed, while she is seated in a saddle. The cut is the strangest in the world; if the gar- ment were looked at in the hand, one might well demand the use of this piece of tailor-fashioned cloth, of which not only the skirt, but some- times the breeches—except when they are jersey—are made. This is the despair of the tailor who complains of the fancifulness of women. Neverthe- less, tradition seems to have remained most faithful in this particular form of feminine costume. The pose of the tricorne alone proves to us that nothing modern has slid into the severe, but enchanting, mode of dress. A CHARMING PICTURE If a woman has taste, she can pre- sent the most distinguished appear- ance in this guise, even while exactly following the rules decreed by good hunting-form. Apropos of this, I re- member having been present before the war at the “blessing of the hounds” before the church of la Celle les Borde, at the home of the Duchesse d’Uzés, née Chaulnes, who, in her well-fitting scarlet melton coat, with her hair tightly drawn back under her pulled-down tricorne. high-booted, her skirt raised at the side as she left the church, presented a lovely picture of glorious youth and incomparable ele- gance. Women always take care to have a loop and button on their skirts so that, out of the saddle, they can walk about comfortably; since all the length is to the left over the leg on the stirrup side, it would be impossible not to fold the skirt around one; other- wise. one would show the breeches. which one is not supposed to do. The cut of the skirt is so well thought out that, when off her horse, a woman has the effect of wearing the most (Continued on page 162)

Page 177

December I im LLL Black ooze with patent trim Brown ooze with brown calf trim with patent trim with tan calf trim High, medium or low heel Seventeen Dollars Shoes pert and pretty, coy and dainty—all at the Sommers Shop. They are specially designed to foot seem smaller. at hs New York City Ne ct no ist or its er ve ty Fa Authentic Reproductions of se e e : Colonial Prism Lamps nt ; he IGHTEEN inches tall, in “, of finest workmanship ‘h throughout. Shades are cut rt, glass and each lamp has id fourteen Colonial cut and l, figured prisms. Base of fe white marble resting on ball “f feet of solid brass. All the it brass parts have the beauti- e ful Colonial brass finish and = are well lacquered. Wired with |- chain-pull sockets, six feet of silk n cord and two-piece attachment plug \- on each lamp. A beautiful unit of d decoration for the hall, living room, df mantel, Colonial chamber or dining e€ room. : $55.00 the pair, f.o.b. factory if fx ait may be made by money . order, certified check, or in N. Y. funds or will be sent C.O. D. for $5.00 r deposit. t : Harry B. Kohler 1 27 W. Washington St. ° Hagerstown Maryland Pn: Direct by Mail to You Bigger, meatier, sweeter pecans, fresh from the trees to your table. Pecanway shells are so delicate that they can be cracked easily by pressing two nuts together in the palm of the hand, allowing the meat to be extracted in perfect halves. A pound of Pecanways yields full 10 oz. of meats as com- pared with the 7 or 8 oz. given by a good com- mercial variety of pecan. Pecanways are the cream of the crop from the highly cultivated trees. Order a Gift Package today for yourself or friend. Money returned if not satisfied. Sold only in 3- and 5-lb. packages. 3 lb. package, postpaid, $3.50 5 lb. package, postpaid, $5.50 Add 50 cents additional postage for shipments west of Mississippi. Their attractive package makes Pecan- ways a novel gift, highly appreciated by every man, woman or child. M. O. DANTZLER B. Pecanway Place Orangeburg, S. C. Hit GheaN| i) cain DID AUG [Eo Z i ‘si | in) nN ius (¢ HS. ) -INc. i a = jj ‘alll ia Ui NON a) a as wt t Federal gg er HE keen, crisp air reminds us that winter is at our heels—that warm furs are now a ne- cessity for the well- dressed woman. “A Lovely Gif Sachet set of three bags seven inches square—in pink, blue, green or lav- ender satin. Of exquisite fragrance—with decora- tion of ribbon and dahlia or rose. In box of same coloring with French greeting. Sent postpaid upon receipt of price, Both are made entirely by hand, of selected wil- lows, strong and pliant, lovely and lasting. The wide variety, all sizes and prices, is described in illustrated catalog. Write for it. MADISON BASKETCRAFT CO. 406 Main Street Burlington, Iowa Price of Fireside Basket, delivered, size 24 inches, in standard colors (Woodsy Brown, Sumac Red, Meadow Green, Driftwood Grey), $7.00. Price, Fernery, delivered, size 6 x 8—15” long, any stand- ard color, $2.75. Blending with holly and Christmas tree should be masses of fern, lending a living glory to the season. One of these Ferneries will add much to your holiday joy and brighten the home always. This Fireside Basket makes an ideal gift. Distinctive, strong and graceful, itis not only perfect for firewood, but makes a fine holder for leaves, berries and artificial bouquets. “Corte O-Wite — Craft Baskets And, as ever, the selection of furs is a decided prob- lem. To judge what styles are most desirable, now that winter modes have been set, is comparatively simple. But to procure furs that are irreproach- able in dye is difficult— unless one knows the helpful name Federal. To insist upon furs of Federal dye is to obtain the newest and most beautiful shades known to the world of fashion— on furs that are absolutely dependable and sanitary. — Federal is now presenting many fascinating new shades on Ermine, Squir- rel, Mink, Caracul, Kolin- sky, Fox, Sable and all en “*FEDERA run DYEING C Ask for furs of FEDERAL DYE

Page 178

=e e \ ~ SE \\ X “ay {\l 7 mY AK 7 \\nantigrenl S| Brassiere~ $729 Mek éChn 350 equccr HE Brassiere illustrated and priced above, reduces the bust and diaphragm and is an in- valuable aid to correct appear- ance and also improved health. Thousands of women have worn this garment with wonderful results. My garments reduce the entire body or any part and do so speedily and easily and without weakening the system in any way. Dr.WALTER'S reducing. duci n $12.00 RUBBER GARMENTS f Sor Men and Women My garments have been worn by men and women for over twenty years—dissolving the fat by perspi- ration, the true, sure and pleasant reducing method. Mail orders care- fully and confidentially filled. A Corset Girdle Beautiful new garment of cream colored rubber re- places ordinary corsets for Send for Free Illustrated Booklet Anklets For reducing and shaping the 3 ankles (as illustrated). Per pair, $7.00 Extra high, $9.00 Y. Athletic Suit For men and women For use in gymnasium work; or as a sleeping wscket Drawers Dr Jeanne B:Walt Jacket 14. 14. sedbustaihpmeeocns 389 Fifth Ave.~ New York Cty —S Office Entrance near 36*St Suite 605 (Send ankle measurement with order. ) Philadelphia Representative: MARY KAMMERER 221 South 11th Street San Francisco Representative: ADELE MILLAR 29 Post Street VOGUE IN THE HUNTING-FIELD (Continued from page 160) simple and correct clothes. One would never suspect the number of seams and oddly shaped pieces which go to the making of this scabbard of whip- cord, which fits tightly to the knee and moulds the lower part of the leg as it clings to the pommel. The waist- coat which goes with the costume is always in velvet of the prescribed colour cut en basque and trimmed with gold braid, figured or plain. This waistcoat, to obey the rules, should be rather loose, the pockets quite large under their trimming of plain or figured galloon. Women have, according to the various hunts, a braid which differs from that of men. Sometimes, men do not wear it at all, and women do. What never changes, either with men or women, is the cravat, called a “sticktie’ (probably derived from “stock” in English), in white piqué. This takes the place of a collar, which interferes with the free movement of the neck, and ought always to be orna- mented by a pin made of two stag- horns mounted on gold. Smartness re- quires that the horns should be very black, conveying the idea that they come from the capture of a very old stag, a “stag of ten.” Boots, which are of black patent leather, are always soft or half soft, never stiff, for this bruises the instep and the soft flesh behind the knee. Women who wear the hunt button crown themselves with a tricorne bordered with a wide gold galloon, called hunting-braid; those who follow the hounds in a simple riding-habit, not wearing the button, also wear a tricorne, but without the gold braid. Either way, the hat must be pulled straight back and kept in place by the elastic which holds on the tricorne. ACCESSORIES OF THE HUNT If any one prefers the round melon hat, the catogan, a turned-up braid of hair is worn beneath it, as with the tricorne. The catogan is tied by a bow of black taffeta ribbon as it always has been since the end of the eighteenth century. Dogskin gloves or gloves of wash- able leather, whichever one pleases, are worn for hunting; there is no set rule on this point, but an obligatory point is the bamboo stick (braided cord or leather whips adhere to the hand un- pleasantly), the handle made of gp. douiller, the little brow-antler of the deer. Neither crop nor hunting-whip is used unless a woman is hunt mis. tress, as is rare. If one is invited ty hunt not far from Paris, it is usyal and practical to take the train or, a any rate, arrive at the house in hunt. ing trim. But, as more often thay not, the habit is of some bright colour one hides it under a greatcoat of the sporting kind made of heavy cheviot usually lined with fur and furnished with enormous pockets. Whether one goes by motor or by train, however the evening dress to be worn at dinner is always packed with the _ toilet necessaries in one of those magnificent pigskin bags, flexible and commodious, which it is so convenient to own, Many women take only one bag into which the dressing-case full of bottles fits comfortably. Why should any one wish to bring a great quantity of un necessary objects for so short a stay? THE RAIN-COAT The rain-coat should also be packed with the hunting-outfit or, even better, carried on the arm, since, for ardent followers of the chase, who keep up with the hunt till late in the evening, in the rain, or at least through the dampness of the woods, the waterproof is indispensable. It should be of gabar- dine in a neutral tone, of a length to suit the taste of the woman wearing it, but, in no case, falling much below the knee. Its shape is strange enough, for, like the riding-skirt, it is cut on the left side to cover the length of the stirrup leg, while, on the right side, it is cut short, just five centimetres longer than the saddle. It is closed down the front and has a high collar. The collar is held in place by a little strap, as is also the lower part of each sleeve. The back is quite short, while the sides, as described, fall longer to right and left of the saddle. The hunting-woman should wear no jewellery, not even her constant pearl necklace, only the stag’s-horn pin which holds the “sticktie.” Since the elastic suffices for the hat, no hatpins are necessary, and neither rings nor brace- lets are tolerated, except the bracelet- watch, usually mounted in light col oured leather. J. RF. RULES FOR ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS NY reader can obtain from the Vogue Information Service an- swers to questions on social con- ventions, customs, entertaining, and matters of etiquette; on costume and fashion, on household decoration, on shops and wholesale houses dealing in merchandise of interest to Vogue read- ers, andon other subjects that fall with- in the scope of this magazine, by con- forming to the following regulations. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS (1) The name and address must be legibly written or printed at the begin- ning or end of every letter. ie (2) In order to answer all inquiries promptly, it is suggested that as few questions as possible be asked in any one letter; a reply may be delayed be cause of the totally unrelated questions contained in a letter, any one of which may require a considerable amount of research to answer it adequately. (3) Unless especially requested to keep a reply confidential, Vogue is priv- ileged to publish any inquiry and at- swer that it considers of interest to 1ts readers.

Page 179

of an- of the g-whip it mis. ted to usual Or, at hunt. | than colour, of the heviot, nished er one wever, dinner toilet ificent rdious, own. g into ottles y one of un stay? acked etter, ardent Pup ening, n the proof rabar- th to -aring below ough, It on of the side, 1etres slosed ‘ollar. little each while er to ir no pearl vhich lastic - are race- -elet- col- F. -gin- iries few any ions hich t of riv- ) its December 1 Eyes that Tantalize If you would have EYES, use Murine night and morning. This refreshing lotion adds new beauty to the EYES— makes them brighter and more compelling than before. magnetic Murine clears the whites of the EYES, intensifies their natural color, and imparts a most alluring sparkle. It’s good for the EYES —contains no belladonna or any other harmful ingredient. Our attractively illustrated book, “Beauty Lies Within the Eyes,” tells how to prop- erly care for your Eyes, Brows and Lashes, and thus enhance their beauty. Send for a copy of this helpful book. It’s FREE. The Murine Company Dept. 31, Chicago RINE, ‘OR Your P EYES | | Gentlewomen secured. who desire to add to their incomes are invited to communicate with Vogue. We wish to increase our staff of field representa- tives. Naturally, we feel that Vogue can best be sold to women of refine- ment by women of refine- ment. Liberal commissions will be paid for subscriptions 3 strap pump, patent leather vamp, R black suede insert, diamond shape cut-outs, new round toe. Style Speaks from the From Maker to Wearer REGAL Regal Factories, Whitman, Mass. MAIL ORDER DEPARTMENT: 125 egal Platform This model is just one of Sixty reasons why Sixty Regal Stores from Coast to Coast last month showed the largest increase in the history otf this business. One Profit, One Quality, and One Price, Six-Sixty From Coast to Coast SHOES Stores in all Se A LIQUID face cream be- stowing on the skin a wonderful tint and softness. “Reviving the freshness of youth.” at all drug and dept. 7 5C stores, or by mail on receipt of price. Laird’s Bloom of YouthCo. 62 Cliff St., New York Dept. V-8 In Miladi’s Boudow for over 50 years THE DAINT Y DEODORANT scented, MARVELOUS THE NECESSARY TOLET ADJUNCT A soothing lotion for a ROUGHENED SKIN CHAPPED HANDS +» LIPS 254 a bottle-Everywhere Will clothing. @ jar. OR FROM THE PHROSTEEN CO., 62 CHIFF ST., NEW YORK SUMMER STREET, BOSTON. MASS. NNN NN) EVERSWEET, the white un- {f eliminates all bodily odors. Just a dab under the arms or anyw tively do this. comforting and very healing. It is a splendid emollient. partment stores, 25¢ and 50c EVERSWEET Co., 62 Cliff St. N. Y. C. Dept. E-7 Principal Cities antiseptic tollet paste, here will most effec- It is soothing, not injure skin or At Drug and de- aaa ae The work will, of course, be in your own city, among the best class of families. For full details, write to Violet Morgan Subscription Department VOGUE 19 West 44th Street New York City YOUR friends must have told you about Basy Bread, now a recognized standard weight reducing ration. Basy Bread is not a medicine or drug, but a wholesome and delicious food—scientifically prepared. There is no unpleasant dieting—no irksome exercises, in the Basy Bread course. Legions have reported remarkable reductions in weight with gains in strength and_health. You will be very much interested in the Basy Bread booklet, which gives reliable information on obesity and how to reduce. Write for your copy to- day. Sent in sealed, : ’ plain cover, postage pre- as paid. Cy Ee BASY BREAD REDUC ae ices Basy Bread a day, Help reduce your weight in a natural way. Doctors’ Essential Foods Co., Orange, N. J. Gentlemen: When I started to take the Basy Bread, I weighed two hundred seventy - five pounds, and now I weigh two hundred and thirty-two pounds. I am well pleased with the results, but desire to lose more, so please con- tinue sending the Bread. L. McC., Mo. DOCTORS’ ESSENTIAL FOODS CO. 37 Oakwood Ave. Orange New Jersey REGISTERED — TRADE MARK -”s QT aT ed ed ee ee eae Sr nisee sin Teecttieeseni No Dressing Table is Complete without the best Eau de Cologne’s Perpetual Delight Eau de "4711 Cologne Not without reasén No. 4711 Eau de Cologne reigned supreme ever since the time of has Napoleon. Its charming odor and refresh- ing virtue appeal instantly to senses jaded by the social round, or fatigued by sickness. To persons of refinement it is literally a spiritual necessity. Produced in America by the makers of No. 4711 White Rose Glycerine Soap and No. 4711 Bath Salts. MULHENS & KROPFF, INC. 25 West 45th Street, N. Y. C. azsno asa assist ganneeaisionzas ena ase eaaaspOraas 10 dO aa ig Oe ae “Let’s see? I think my partner dealt last time because I raised her heart bid. No, that wasn’t last time either. bid last time. Whose deal is it?” Avoid such confusion with a Pat. pending Nexded Pointer Automatic — Accurate I didn’t Always points to the next dealer. After each hand is scored and the pencil replaced the pointer indi- cates the next dealer. No chance for confusion. A novel and use- ful addition to the bridge table. An especially acceptable gift. Ask your stationer for the Nexdeel- Pointer, or order from J. P. Stevens Engraving Co., Atlanta, Ga. Postpaid in U. S. $2.50.

Page 180

ERTAIN LaFayette owners were pre- viously content only with motor cars costing a great deal more than the LaFayette. Others had thought they were satisfied with automobiles somewhat lower priced than the LaFayette. To the first, the LaFayette represents an economy free from any suggestion of com- promise. To the second, the LaFayette represents a degree of excellence and value that less money can not buy. To both, the LaFayette yields a superiority of performance that is unmistakable and sustained. Steadily the conviction that the LaFayette is one of the world’s finest motor cars is finding wider and wider acceptance as the experience of LaFayette otvners becomes known LaFayetre Morors Corporation, Mi/waukee, Wisconsin St Pee oe ee BLANCHARD PRESS, INC., N

Page 181

STEINWAY THE INSTRUMENT OF THE IMMORTALS For more than 60 years the greatest figures in the world of music have elected to play the Steinway. Liszt and Wagner, once they heard the Steinway, would have no other piano. It became the voice of Paderewski, of Hofmann and Rachmaninoff. It is the one piano used by Friedman and Cortot. Mischa Levitzki said of the Steinway, “It is the only piano that satisfies my every wish.” The qualities that endear the Steinway to the immortals of music contribute equally to the happiness of those who are lovers of music. For the pianist of the home there is no inspiration greater than the Steinway tone. Its perfection aids the musical development of children. All music achieves a higher plane when played upon the Steinway. It is because these things are true that every Steinway piano, no matter what its style or size, is a complete and perfect example of Steinway art. There is a Steinway dealer in your community or near you through whom you may purchase a new Steinway piano with a cash deposit of 10%, and the balance will be extended over a period of two years. Prices: Upright, $875 and up; Grand, $1425 and up; plus freight Used pianos accepted in partial exchange. STEINWAY & SONS, Steinway Hall, 109 East Fourteenth Street. New York

Page 182

FIBERLOID Like the gift ivories of ancient Egypt, Ivory Fiberloid Toilet Articles have an irresistible appeal. More durable and lasting than elephant ivory, Fiberloid Giftware is also colorful in its Gold, Gramarble, Amber and Tortoise finishes. Send for descriptive folder of new Gift Package selections —a better way to purchase Fiberloid Giftware. THE FIBERLOID CORPORATION, INDIAN ORCHARD, MASS. SALES OFFICES: New York City Canada San Francisco 402-404 Fifth Avenue 184 Bay Street, Toronto, Ontario 220 Post Strect

Page 183

y~