Vogue 1923-10-01: Vol 62 Iss 7

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GTI 3 Oarky aris Openings October 1° 1923 he ConvENAST PusLications Jnc. r1Ce 35 (Lents

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The Temple of Angkor PLENDOUR and glow of rhythmic colour—mysteri- ous, elusive quality of age-old beauty—subtle spell of lands beyond far seas—’prisoned, they are, in silken stuffs of wondrous charm—in Cheney Silks. Translated by artists and master weavers into luxurious silks, they are an essential part of the ap- peal that has established a definite style leadership. Brokad’or and Brokad’ argent, two gorgeous metallic bro- cades by Cheney Brothers, are presented for the Fall and Winter season. Frostkrépe, for day frocks, is most pop- ular in Gissing Blue, Cocoa, Java, New Taupe and Maple. wl \\a! YAN NEW YORK CHENEY BROTHERS FOURTH AVENUE AT EIGHTEENTH STREET

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October 1 Sound footing! When you put your best foot forward it ought to be silk shod. For not only is silk the accepted fabric of elegance throughout the world, but when it is made into hand- finished hosiery by Phoenix methods, it has a long-mileage endurance that makes it a downright economy. Luxu- rious hosiery-travel at small cost! Sturdy beauty that commands leader- ship everywhere!. These are com- pelling reasons why you should find sound footing in Phoenix hosiery now. PHOSNIA HOSIERY MILWAUKEE

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VOGUE 6s ” Onyx Rintex REG US. PAY, cnr. 33 “Now I prefer. ..... No matter what your taste in hosiery, there is an “Onyx Pointex” stocking made especially to please you. We make hose of every kind — all silk, lisle top, slender, stout, heavy weight or of gossamer sheerness. For example, our famous ’Fifty Five grade of ‘ ‘Onyx Pointex’’, a silk stock- ing with mercerized lisle garter top and sole, is made in two weights as shown at the right. No. 255 is a medium weight stocking, which is sold in most department stores at around $2.25. No. 355 is the same excellent stocking in a sheer weight, but possessing the same sturdy strength. It usually sells at about $2.50. There are hundreds of other “Onyx” patterns in silk, in wool, in lisle and in mixed fabrics. If you are uncertain where to obtain them we should be glad to tell you and at the same time to send you our little folder “How to care for Silk Hosiery” “Onyx’’ Hosiery Inc. Wholesale New York _ Pointex . Onyx ® Hosiery VOGUE is published on the first and fifteenth of every month by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc., 19 W. 44th Street, Vol. No. 62, No. 7 VOGUE New York. SUBSCRIPTIONS for the United States, Porto Rico, Hawaii and the Philippines $5.00 a year in advance, Whole No 1223 October ist, 1923 Entered as second class matter February 16, 1910, at the Post Office, New York, under act of March 3, 1879. Office No. 255 above, and No. 355 at the left are only two-of the many varieties of “Onyx Pointex”. Ne

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October 1 Franklin Simon 8 Co, Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Streets, New York F or M adame? ENSEMBLE COSTUME THREE-PIECE SUITS W ith their slim silhouette gowns and youthfully slender coats they form not. only a complete costume, but a perfect ensemble. Model 23—ENSEMBLE COSTUME THREE-PIECE SUIT of vellona; the coat is collared with viatka squirrel, beaver or dyed fox fur; the silk bodice of the one-piece gown has embroidered vellona bands. Colors: kit fox gray, malay, bottle green, black SIGNING ee ee ee ae 98.50 Model 25—~ENSEMBLE COSTUME THREE-PIECE SUIT of vellona; the coat is collared and banded with flying squirrel fur: one-piece gown has flounced skirt with silk bodice. Colors: kit fox gray, bottle green, malay orblack. . . . . 195.00 SEND FOR THE NEW FASHION BOOK Picturing and pricing all the new tashions in Fall and Winter Apparel, sent free to any address over one hundred miles from Fifth Avenue. Entire Contenfs Copyrighted, 1923, by Franklin Simon _& Co., Inc.

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‘ squirrel. Sizes 14-18; 36-42. 149.50 FIFTH AVENUE Replicas of Paris Fall Suits in VELLONA A new, soft rich pile fabric Suit showing Paris mode for flares— Youthful hip length jacket, new scal- on massive fur border, deep fur cuffs loped circular flared cuffs, deep collar and generous fur collar, all of Viatka and scalloped border of moleskin. Allover embroidered in Oriental design. Sizes 14-18: 36-40. 169.50 Suit showing flare treatment on cuffs and border, both of moleskin to corre- spond with collar; hand-embroidered design on jacket and sleeves. Sizes 14-16; 36-40. 149.50 Fall and Winter Fashion Book on request Stewart & Oo. AT 37H STREET Correct Zpparel tof Women &Misses

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October 1 BONWIT TELLER &,CO. The Specially Shop of Oripnations FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™ STREET, NEW YORK 51—Costume overblouse of crepe de chine with applique of con- trasting soft kidskin embroid- ered in various colors. Petrole green, Autumn brown, French blue, navy blue or black 18.5C 52—Beaded overblouse of milk- crystal beads on crepe de chine applied in circular design front and back. Peach, canary, white, petrole green, French blue or ee 6s we 53—-Costume overblouse of broche velvet in brown, chocolate, French blue or black. 32.50 55—Costume overblouse of crepe de chine with scarf collar and embroidered Chinese motifs. Lacquer red, petrole green, Autumn brown, navy blue, or OMI. ws eee oe SO 56—Crepe de chine overblouse with tucked front, trimming of contrasting pipings and little metal buttons. Petrole green, Autumn brown, French blue, navy blue or black. . 18.50 54—Costume over- blouse of crepe de chine with metal gallooning forming the littleChinese collar and trimming. Petrole green, French blue, navy blue, Autumn brown or black. 14.00

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COSA The Russian influence is felt in this lovely Canton and satin frock on cossack lines. Where the satin joins the Canton, as at the neck and bottom of the overblouse, elaborate beading is the finish. The underskirt is of Jap silk to which a deep band of satin has been added. A soft, crush belt of Canton ts finished with a rose of self ma- terial and, all told, a smarter frock is quite unlikely to be de- signed this season. In French blue - and - black, cocoa - and - brown and rose-and-black, sizes 14 to 20, inclusive, $39.50. Abraham & Straus Inc. Brooklyn, N. Y. L. S. Ayres & Company Indianapolis, Ind. L. Bamberger & Co. Newark, N. J. Bullock’s Los Angeles, Cal. The Dayton Company Minneapolis, Minn. The Emporium San Francisco, Cal. Wn. Filene’s Sons Company Boston, Mass. B. Forman Co. Rochester, N. Y. PORTIA W ool rep fashions this smartly tailored frock white satin, elaborately appliquéd, adds a richness to the coat-like closing. W orn high, the mole choker is distinct- tion itself, but indoors it may also be turned down to display its lovely fac- ing of embroidered satin. In this type of frock, one especially admires the fine- ness of the Barbara Lee tailoring, which promises to hold the crisp lines in unwavering trimness. Navy with mole, rosewood with mole, sizes 14 to 20, in- clusive, $39.50. x“ oe ee te. aan «oN ROSANNE One fancies that the wearer of this crépe chiffon dance frock will tread only the stately minuet, so demure and quaint are its lines! A band of metal lace outlined in two-toned velvet ribbon forms the unusual trimming, while the corsage is a cabochon of French hand- made flowers with velvet streamers. With underskirt of chiffon, it comes in flame color, shrimp, jade, and bluette, sizes 14 to 20, inclusive, $39.50. Barbara Lee frocks for women and misses are shown exclusively in the shops listed in this advertisement. FALL FROCKS FOR MADEMOISELLE AS SEEN IN LEADING SHOPS Barbara Lee frocks have a decidedly metropolitan air and it is through the leading shops of the larger cities that Barbara Lee presents her models. Fall dresses of silks, chiffon, velvet and cloth are shown forwomen and misses and in each is the unmistakable signature of Gordons les © 1923 byR. R.A. HONORE A bit more sophisticated of line but charmingly youthful is this dinner dress of silk chiffon vel- vet, draped to a puff at the side. Tiny cap sleeves of chif- fon are finished with colorfully embroidered braid, while the richly beaded ornaments at the waistline are further enhanced with delicate leather leaves. Velvet promises to be more coveted than ever this season and the cost of this little model is amazingly low. In black, brown or sapphire, sizes 14 to 20, inclusive, $39.50, Joseph Horne Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. The J. L. Hudson Co, Detroit, Mich. The Lasalle & Koch Company Toledo, Ohio The F. & R. Lazarus & Co. Columbus, Ohio The Rike-Kumler Co. Dayton, Ohio Strawbridge & Clothier Philadelphia, Pa. The Wm. Taylor Son & Co, Cleveland, Ohio Weinstock, Lubin & Co. Sacramento, Cal. Woodward & Lothror Washington, D. C.

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October 1 “ - Simpl icit y Distinguishes M isses’ Fall Frocks Alike in their appropriate simplicity, each discovers a new and clever mode of trimming, so that in this group we have four extremely smart and divertingly different costumes. Each is an excellent beginning for a fall wardrobe destined to be most effective. First—The new two-piece Whitbey frock for fall. Designed in our own studios. Man-tailored in a new feather-weight worsted fabric, with detachable vestee and cuffs of white broadcloth silk, and foulard tie. May be worn with a Deauville scarf. In brown or navy, $29.75. Second—This slim basqued, full-skirted dinner dress is fashioned of chiffon velvet, with a deco- rative bow of contrasting satin ribbon. In black, tomato, and royal blue, $38.75. Third—The new tiered effect is demonstrated fetchingly in an afternoon frock of crépe satin. The graceful long-waisted bodice is caught at the sides with sparkling jet clasps, and trimmed with rich écru lace. In black, brown and navy, $48.75. Fourth—Tailored frock of a new feather-weight wool fabric, with an apron-effect skirt and metal ball buttons down either side. Deep collar of real lace. In navy and brown, $38.75. Sizes 14,°16, and 18 years Pe, A HERALD SQUARE Inc. & be N&tW YORKo

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790 AILORED coat- dress of Poiret twill in midnight blue, with collar, cuffs, pocket edg- es and buttons of nar- row silk braid in bright tones, A featured model for early fall, Also shown in brown, $39.75 784 P4 RIS sponsors the tailored street dress with vestee of embroid- ered net and circular flounces, The long tight sleeves and gauntlet cuffs are of the newest mode. Shown in navy and in brown. $39.75 Mosxontz dress creations for early fall reflect the favor which the style capital of the world has placed upon the tailored frock. His clever originality appears in the handling of the tiered skirt, the brightly colored pipings, the tight sleeves that flower into picturesque cuffs, and in all the details that so charmingly contrast severity and its utter opposite. And this contrast is the keynote of the mode of the moment. THE MOSHONTZ BROS. COMPANY, CLEVELAND NEW YORK OFFICE, 141-145 WEST 36TH ST. 2429 ELVET is a favored fabric for the —s season, and makes three-tiered skirt es cially stylish. The bias flounces are edged with black silk braid, The modish slender silhouette is well maintained. Col- ors—black or navy. 2543 NTRODUCING the smart new“hip skirt” destined to be much in vogue because of its un- usual adaptability tothe sheer overblouse and for {J its modish long waisted effect. Wool canton with clusters of small box pleats and knife pleats. Colors—black, navy, brown and tan, $12.75 HE style leadership which has been at- tained in Skirts by Bloom- Y field, rightly prompts the greatest expectations of novelty and exclusiveness. Bloomfield, with this fact in mind, submits for your approval this Fall the most interesting and varied offer- ings he has ever shown. Leading shops and depart- ment stores everywhere display them. LENDER lines feature ture this skirt of wool rep, trimmed with silk arrow heads and buttons, A deep inverted pleat at the lett for necessary full- ness. Colors— black or navy, THE BLOOMFIELD COMPANY CLEVELAND New York, 141-145 West 36th St. j $10.00 2426 p peee sa sylish sports or street skirtof plaid velour,decorated with feather stitching in con- trasting colors, Deep pleat at left. Colors— navy and tan, brown and tan, navy and gray. $12.75 SKIRTS BY BLOOMFIELD — oes

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. A October 1 ANNE EZPLAINS [ was humiliating to run out of gasoline just when she had been impressing Jane with her driving! Jane was sympathetic. “Don’t worry,” she said, “we’ll just sit here until some one comes along who will let us have some.” “That might easily be all day,” said Anne, grimly. “No, there’s a garage about a mile and a half from here and I’ll walk on and get a man to bring me back with some gas.”’ “Walk a mile and a half on these rough roads in those dainty pumps!” Jane was aghast. ‘You’ll cripple yourself.” Anne laughed. “Another one of you girls who thinks a good look- ing shoe is an instrument of torture.” A lovely pump for afternoon or evening. Slender straps cross at the instep and hold the foot in easy grace. In fine kid- skins, satin—in all the wanted leathers Shoes for Women Write us for style book—ano charge JULIUS GROSSMAN, INC. BROOKLYN, N. Y. iT “he ,eaee «Well, I never wore one that wasn’t,’ retorted Jane. “You needn’t tell me you won’t get a twinge or two from those!” « Not a twinge in a dozen of them, my dear, they’re Ped-e-modes.” « Why, that’s the name I’ve been trying to think of! Marion told me about them—you remember she used to wear those ugly shoes because her feet bothered her? Well, yesterday I met her in a stunning pair of suede and kid pumps and she told me she hasn’t had a bit of trouble with her feet since she’s been wearing Ped-e-modes. Said they exercised her feet and made them strong. Toddle along and get your gas—I shan’t waste any sympathy on you.” All the charm of a pump plus the ease of an Oaford. The gored side is as com- Sortable as it is smart and you may choose it in the newest shades and com- binations of the fall leather. Ped-e-modes are shown exclusively in the shops listed beiow: F. E. Foster € Co. Higbee Co. Ernst KernCo. F. E. Foster & Co. Caspari &% Virmond Co, Nicollet Booterie, Inc. Winkelman Joseph Horne Co, Chicago, IN, Cleveland, O. Detroit, Mich. Kansas City, Mo, Milwaukee, Wis Philadelphia, Pa. Pitcsburgh, Pa. Minneapolis, Minn. L. Bamberger &% Co, Jacobs Bros. Louis Livingston Thomas Kilpatrick Co. Knight Shoe Co. SeymourSycle City of Paris Dry Goods Co. Newark, N. J. New Orleans, La. New York City Omaha, Neb. Portland, Ore. Richmond, Va. San Francisco, Cal. Phelps Shoe Store S.C. Lauber Kerr Dry Goods Co, Robert I. Cohen, Inc. Clement & Co. Shreveport, La. Toledo, Ohio Oklahoma City, Okla. Galveston, Texas Springfield, Mass.

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The style stands out—so does workmanship in HART SCHAFFNER & MARX COATS FOR WOMEN Those two things are very important with most women It’s because these qualities are so evident in Hart Schaffner & Marx coats that they've become such favorites You'll like the new patterns, models, colorings; you'll like the long, useful wear you get, and the reasonable prices Send for a copy of the women’s Style Book HART SCHAFFNER & MARX Chicago New York

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OQctober 1 il i at Windsor Silk Stockings to match ji all the newest shades in leather, mi suede and satin shoes may be purchased at the better shops. “Woolen stockings with your silk dress? My dear, they’ll look dreadful!” “Well, what can I wear? It will be cold driving over and I’d freeze in those silk frivolities you wear.” «Wrong you are—they’re only partly ‘silk’ and they’re not ‘frivolities’ at all. I thought everyone knew Windsor silk—and wools. They look like heavy silk but they feel like wool—only much, much smoother!’ “I'd like to know why I wasn’t told of them. I’ve been wearing Windsor silk stockings and Windsor chiffons but I never heard of these. Let’s stop in Drapers on our way down, shall we?” 5 & FULL FASHIONED THOS. E. BROWN & SONS - SECOND AND WESTMORELAND STS. - PHILADELPHIA, PA.

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VOGUE a BURBERRY =“ WEATHERPROOF COATS For every purpose where a Weatherproof or Overcoat is needed to protect health and secure warmth and comfort BURBERRY ARE PRE-EMINENTLY THE COATS TO WEAR When rain, drizzle or mist make an ordinary Overcoat feel like a wet blanket, When the wind is keen and the thermometer approaching \ freezing point. = When the weather is uncertain, with odds on rain. => | ATELY In fact, whenever there is need for a dependable defence against the elements, BURBERRY WEATHERPROOF COATS 4, - & f “| i made in exclusive Burberry materialk—Scotch Tweeds, Hand- ; made Homespuns, West of England Coatings and Fleecy Ulsterings—which ensure protection without sacrifice of natural ventilation, are essential to health and comfort. DESIGNED AND MADE IN LONDON Burberry models are recognized by that distinctive character that only Burberry garments possess. Simple and _ practical in style, superbly cut, tailored and finished, they are, throughout the world, regarded as the hall-mark of distinction and good taste. FOR SPORT no safeguards can compare with Burberry Coats. FOR TRAVEL by road, rail or ocean, they are unrivalled for luxurious warmth. FOR TOWN they are as distinguished in appearance, as they are dependable for weather-resistance. FOR ALL OUTDOOR PURSUITS, at all seasons of the year, the smartest overcoats and staunchest safeguards are BURBERRY WEATHERPROOF COATS BURBERRYS HAYMARKET LONDON BURBERRYS BD. MALESHERBES PARIS BURBERRYS sinter S.W.l1 LONDON BD. MALESHERBES PARIS, NEW YORK, BUENOS AIRES & MONTEVIDEO NEW YORK (Wholesale only) 12-14 West 37th Street Burberrys Ltd.

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October 1 BURBERRY WE ATHEBERPROOF CO ATS them ensure Genuine Burberry Garments. ‘U.S.A. AtBany N.Y. ier Baey Co. W. E. Waish’ & Sons AmHERsT Mass.—Thomas Walsh Atciantic City N.J.—London Shop BactimorE Mp.—L, Slesinger & Sons William H..Lohmeyer Bevuncuam WasH.—Adams Style Shop By APPOINTMENT Boston Mass.—Collins & Fairbanks Co, ws —— & Co. ‘ oyes Bros. Scott & Co. BurratoN.Y.—G.E. MoreCo.Ine, Canton O.—F. M. Hardwick - CuartestonW Va.—C. V.Gentry Schwabe& \lay Cuicacoltt.—MarshallField&Co. ” Capper & Capper BS Fifield&Stevenson “ Chas. H. Stevens & Co. : Cixcinnati O.—Harry W. Smith CLEvELAND O.—The May Co. ‘The MacAdams Co, Cotumpus O.—H. A. Morgan Co. Concord Mass.—George A. Place Dattas Tex —Dreyfuss & Son DENVER Cola-—hasere King Detroit Micu. —Tuttle & Clark Capper&Capper EL Paso Tex.—B. Blumenthal & Bro Ertrz Pa.—Alexander ric Schneider FALLRIvErR Mass,—Burke&Davis Fort WortH | ex.— Worth Bros, Fresno CatiF —Roos Bros. Inc, GranD Rapivys Micu—May & Sons Hanover N.H.—James Campion Hartrorp Conn. — The Stack- le Moore Tryon Co, Houston TEex.—Barringer- Norton Co. Inc, INDIANAPOLIS IND.—Schloss ros. Co, KatamazooMicu,—A,W Johnson Kansas City Mo.—Rothschild Sons - Auerbach & Goettal Harzteld's LAWRENCE Mass.—R. J. Macartney Lown. Mass—R. J. Macartney Los ANGELES CaALiF.—Bullocks - as Harris & Frank Inc. Mullen & Bluett Mempuis TENN. “R.A. Guilfoyle Co, Inc, MitwaukeEE Wis.—Brenk Brothers Toepfer & Bellack Minneapouis Minn.—The Plymouth House Nuawakk N.J.—Salisbury Jacobsen & Co. New Britain Conn.—Fitch-Jones & Co. New Haven Conn.—Alderman ” Chase & Co. Hamilton & Co. €2 ee sm: 2 . Barry. 0 Sy sel ferspithisvelle pel ord grat Fark iee Brecye> tae the Faby G Maskunler és Mee yee @S : ( ee : Lk oe Vlado. eyo NEL The Burberry Agents in this list hold the above Warrant as guarantee of Authority to sell Burberry Weatherproof Coats. New KENSINGTON Pa.—Wolfson & Moran ” New Orteans La,—Stevens Inc. New York N.Y.—Abercrombie & Fitch Co. “a Dobbs & Co. ” Finchley Weber & Heilbronner ” N:acara Farts N.Y.—The Lynch Dolan Co, Victoria B.C.—Angus Camptell & Co. Ltd. Norrotk Va.—C. C. Jones Co, Inc. OakLanbD CaLiF.—Roos Bros, Inc. Every Burberry Garment The words “ Burberrys” and “ Burberry” are severally registered Trade-marks and distinctive of Burberrys’ manufactures and merchandise, BURBERRY BD. MALESHERBES PARIS, NEW YORK, BUENOS AIRES & MONTEVIDEO NEW YORK, (Wholesale only) 12-14 West 37th Street ” 9» : BURBERRYS Joy Co. St. Joun N.B.—Manchester, Robertson. Allison St. Tuomas Ont.—k. H. & J. Dowler Ltd, Sarnia Ont.—R. H. & J. Dowler Ltd. SH«RBROOK Pg.—J. Rosenb'com Supsury Ont.—Plewes & Co. ‘Loronto Ont.—Holt Renfrew & Co. Ltd W INDSOR Ont.—R. H. & J. Dowler, Ltd. WwW INNIPEG Man.—tThe T. Eaton Co. Ltd. Vancouver B.C.—Ed. Chapman Goidon Dry sdae Ltd. W. & J. Wilson Oaxcanp Catir.—Arthur Ramage Co. OKLAHOMA City OKLa.—Newbill Bros. Omana Nes.—Browning King & Co. PHILADELPHIA Pa—Blay lock = Blynn Inc. “¢ MacDonald & Campbell 2 acob Reed's Sons PirtssurcH Pa.—Kaufmann & Baer Co. Inc. Maedcr-Hlawati Co. PorTLanb Me. —Hogan Brothers Poxtranp Org.—K. S, Ervin & Co. Ltd. PRoviDENCE K.I.— Gladdings RicuMonv Va.—Mever Greentree Rocuester N Y.—Whillock Bros. SacraMEnTO Catir.—C, J. Heeseman Sacinaw Micu.—Beach & Davis Sr. Louis Mo.—Famous & Barr Co. St. Paut Minn.— Capper & Capper The Golden Rule San Digco Catir.—The Marston Co. San Francisco Catir.—Pauson & Co, San Francisco CAuiF.—Roos Bros. Ine. San Jose Carir.—Springs Inc. Scuenecrapy N.Y.—Chas. Holtzmann & Son SeatTLeE Wasu.—Cheasty’s Inc. és arman Syracuse N.Y.—J. P. Goettel ee Wells & Coverly, Inc. Topeka Kan —Auerbach & Goettal Troy N.Y.—Wells & Coverly, Inc. Utica N.Y.—Wicks $ Greenman Wasuineton D.C.— F. J. Heit nh ~ WATERBURY Conn. —Jones Mor, oO. Watkrtown N.Y.—James R. Milter Co. Worcester Mass.—R. Healy Co. Ware Pratt Co. Younestown O.—Hartzell & Goldberg CANADA Carcary ALtta.—W. Diamond Clothing Co. Hamitton Ont.—Wm. McLelland +b Fashion Cratt Shop * Finch Brothers Lonpon Ont.—W. F. Boughner Montreat Pg.—Henry Marks o” ax Beauvaise Ltd. 2 Glen S. Case » Henry Morgan & . Ltd. » Holt Xentrew & Co. re, é New Westmins:i kx B.C.—Reid & McDonald Ottawa Ont.—G. M. Holbrook Quesec City Pg.—Holt Renfrew & Co, Ltd. Reoina Sask —J. W. Cresswell Co. Ltd. St. CATHERINE OnT.—Bissonette- The T. Eaton Co, Ltd. Bartlett-Macdonald & Gow McCreery Co. Robinson & Co. Ltd, Gordon Drysdale Ltd. J. W. Foster Ltd. Thos. Foster & Co. Ltd, bears this Burberry Trade-mark urberrys Lid. are obtainable in the UNITED STATES and CANADA from the authorised agents They are supplied with in the following list. Burberry stocks, and purchases made with HAYMARKET S.W.1 LONDON {

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14 VOGUE cNegligees of Waterside Corduroy achieve special distinction HATEVER you do through the day, in- doors or outdoors, there comes that bliss- ful period when you take off your outer clothes and slip into your negligée. What comfort! And what added comfort if your negligée is of Waterside Corduroy! Just enough warmth to be cosily comfort- able, and an endless choice of colors to match the scheme of your boudoir, or to match your mood! This is Waterside. A rich, velvety “feel” that has all the effect of luxury, and a depth of pile that gives added beauty to its gorgeous colors. This, too, is Waterside. Add to their unusual attractiveness the fact that Waterside negligées tub beautifully as well as dry clean, that they are almost indestructible in wearing qualities, that they are moderate in price—and what more could you ask! Negligées this season are following fashion just as closely as outer wearing apparel. The popular side tie model, for example, is especially effective in Waterside. Then there is the more conserva- tive kimona, or the new $0-inch breakfast coat, equally effective in Waterside Corduroy. Because of the fact that the leaders of neg- ligeé fashions use Waterside Corduroy, you will find the newest and most attractive models in Waterside. Illustrated at the right is the label. Look for it, or ask for it, whenever you look for corduroy negligées. Leading department stores carry Waterside Corduroy by the yard, in a remarkable range of really glorious colors. It is ideal not only for negligeés, but for women’s sports clothes and hats, jacquettes, scarves, men’s lounging robes, children’s clothes, and many other practical uses. Waterside is stamped on the selvage. Ask to see it! Howlett & Hock- meyer Co., Fifth Avenue at 26th Street, New York. Waterside Mills, Lowell, Massachusetts. a WATERSIDE CORDUROY AE (UATERSIDE CORDUROY

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October 1 fe! — 29200, fe) ge 0° 29 f ©, Pe i fe) & L.A fe) a \ 2 § 4 (e) Q oO 8 re) wNY 3 | , \ 8 {| at Oo a“ ie re) o D r@) 3 | y ° ZZ 5 . Ln IN a mS 3 es ead & CThe BrilliantStyleDesigners “7 Have Always Hoped \ jor Such Footwear Smartness as This The designers and makers of smart costumes have long Pras. looked forward to the perfection of fit and lithe grace- vig fulness which is to be found in the Utz & Dunn line of Zs 5 truly modish footwear—Heel-Huggers. Executed by master designers whose fashion ideas are soundly and basically authoritative, Heel-Hugger foot- wear hold the foot gently but firmly in the precise man- ner it should rest in the shoe, fitting at the heel snugly and without slipping, clasping the ankle without ever a bulge or gap, even though it be a slender one. And thus through perfection in fit and gracious beauty, Heel-Hugger footwear is taking its place as Fashion's leader. The remarkable brochure, “The Self-Determination of Annabelle Wyeth,” will be forwarded to you upon request UTZZ#} | HEEL HUGGER SHOES DUNN CQ. 29 Canal Street ROCHESTER, NEW YORK

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PARIS - NEW YORK i | « Snart Chur (Sinfort me Ceonomeally! SPECIALLY adapted to the’ Unusually warm, too,—and more popular loose box coat models healthful than bulky animal skins is Salt's Kid-Fur. And in combi- —are these wonderful Fabric-Furs. nation with mink or squirrel collar, Enjoy this winter-coat warmth and band, and cuffs, it offers real win- smart appearance at a surprisingly : low cost. Your retailer will show ter-coat economy in smart styles you the new models in Salt's Fabric- that will make you look your best. Furs today. SALTS FABRIC ~ FURS SALTS: TEXTILE CO. tac., New York City

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Spot UTY! Utility! That rare combination, universally sought in all things, is here achieved. : Each roof of Johns-Manville Col- orblende Asbestos Shingles has the charm of soft coloring, the pleasing beauty of ever varying tone and, with- al, a hardiness of structure that means permanence of beauty and perma- nent safety for all of those prized JOHNS~ MANVILLE ASBESTOS SHINGL possessions which the roof protects. For Johns-Manville Colorblende Asbestos Shingles are rock, and to rock; fire and the years mean nothing. They are given highest ratings by Underwriters’ Laboratories, Inc. May we send you a booklet in colors? Send a post card request to. Johns- Manville, Inc., 296 Madison Avenue, New York City. | and its allied products INSULATION |

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To anticipate.and supply every essential need and probable desire in quality equipment for the kitchen, bathroom and laundry, isonly the first phase of Crane service to home builders. The providing of piping, valves and neces- sary fittings of approved design and uniform dependability is a Crane function quite as important to the comfort and untroubled calm of the home afterit has been established. agree son he ERE Peotone? seca And finally, there is the maintenance of 140 Crane Branches, Offices, and Display Rooms throughout the United States and abroad. These bring within easy reach of owners and architects a specialized knowledge and engi- neering experience of immediate valueinsolv- ing any plumbing, heating or sanitary prob- lem which may arise in the planning of the simplest or the most luxurious modern home. GENERAL OFFICES: CRANE BUILDING, 836 S. MICHIGAN AVE., CHICAGO Branches and Sales Offices in One Hundred and Forty Cites Nationa: Exhibit Rooms: Chicago, New York, Atlantic City Works: Chicago, Bridgeport, Birmingham, Chattanooga and Trenton CRANE, LIMITED, MONTREAL, CRANE-BENNETT, Lrv., LONDON CRANE EXPORT CORPORATION: NEW YORK, SAN FRANCISCO C® CRANE, PARIS Crane Gate Valoe Crane Radiator Valve No. 44934 No. 220 j \

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October 1 — a * 1 9 g i a w 1 a * i * u i & * i * uu i a sd M A s i 2 Ld i . uy i 5 . i 7 u i 0 v i a w i mCODRCORCOFRODRGB Vy \ X ] 4 ” Six Sixt Patent Leather Center Strap Pump Spanish Heel Brown Kid Pump New Round Toe Elastic Side Goring Tan Grain Oxford With Perforations For Sport and Street Style eAuthority Tue rrexp of fashion in Regal Shoes for Autumn includes a wide variety of attractive patterns and leathers, in shapes and styles suitable for every purpose and all occasions. The shoes illustrated cover a range of styles from the comfortable, custom, conventional Oxford for shopping in the city, or tramping in the country, to the smart patent leather pump with elastic goring at the side and gun metal insert on the front, for afternoon and evening wear. Between these two extreme styles you will see one-, two- and three-strap effects with Cuban and Spanish heels, in both welt and turned soles, and round and pointed toes. Maker to Wearer TOMO if! ‘ee ! f , ll hasnt! MMMM Regal Factories, Whitman, Mass. cAll One Price Black Ooze 3-Strap Pump Gun Metal Trimmed Cinnamon Brown Genuine Buck Tan Calf Strap Brown Calfskin 1-Strap Pump. Light Welt Sole The vogue for strap effects was far more than a passing fancy and will be more strongly entrenched as a style feature this Fall. There will be more restraint in color combinations. Leathers that harmonize rather than colors that contrast will be more noticeable. For instance Russian calf and brown kid will be trimmed with brown suede and gun metal and patent leather will be trimmed with black ooze. One high Standard of Quality, one small Profit and one low Price, “Six-Sixty,” for every shoe in all Regal stores from Coast to Coast, simplifies Making and Selling, and makes it possible for us to share with you the savings in both our Factories and our Stores. From Coast to Coast TT MNT UMM UEC LLC COLL CELLU LL Stores in All Principal Cities MAIL ORDER DEPARTMENT: 125 SUMMER STREET, BOSTON, MASS.

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THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU The Largest Most Modern, Most Replete Steamer Cruising Next Winter to ~the MEDITERRANEAN the Specially Chartered Red Star Liner BELGENIAND Jan.19 to March 26, 1924 HIS mammoth palatial steamer abounds in | unique and novel features | —featureswhichmakeher the ideal ship for just such a Cruise de Luxe. Broad, glass enclosed promenade decks, magnificent public ' rooms, large, airy and su- perbly fitted staterooms | with hot and cold running | water and private bath- rooms in plenty. The most distinctive dining-room- service afloat—here you may order meals in your | own way at yourowntime. | A master-hand itinerary, embracing romantic Spain, Gibraliar, Algiers, Tunis; Naples and Pompeii; | Athens, Constantinople, Palestine; a long stay in Egypt—Cairo, the upper Nile (the Valley of the Kings), etc. Stopover priv- | ileges in Europe, return- ing by Majestic, Olympic, Homeric, etc. Under the management | of Cook’s Travel Service —the World’s Foremost Travel Organization—the Owners of the Finest | Fleet of Steamers on the Nile. THOS. COOK & SON 245 Broadway NEW YORK S561 Fifth Ave. Boston Philadelphia Chicago San Francisco Los Angeles Toronto Montreal Vancouver © All Year Chub THEY’RE ALL FULL OF PEP! ID you ever see a Californian who wasn’t utterly pleased with his orange trees and his beaches, his mountains, his lakes, his missions, his motor roads—himself ? That’s the one unanswerable argument in favour of the place. The way it makes you feel. Not even the most cynical New Yorker, the most in- tellectual Bostonian, the most blasé. European, is proof against that insidious, gorgeous, unpuncturable optimism. . It gets you within the week. .. . Do you feel that way right now—with the coal strike loom- ing, and the new plays what they are, and the servant problem adding a kink a month—are you pleased with the world? No? .. . Then, since you can’t take the poor old thing out and sink it, why not try a psychological experiment on your- self? Why not put yourself into a train, hard feelings and all, and treat yourself to 300 days of sunshine in the year, and 4000 miles of motor roads, and the shiniest seas and the warmest sands, and golf-and-polo-and-fishing-and-climbing- and-hiking-and-hunting, and— You’re thinking like a Californian already. . . . You know you are! But before you go—ask the Condé Nast Travel man about reservations on trains and at hotels. He’ll buy your tickets if you want. He’ll plan your trip. He’ll do everything but make up your mind. And—er—isn’t that made? P. 8. No. Positively. We were born on Manhattan! THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 21 West 44th Street New York City you plan your trip lo EUROPE T need cost you little. Perhaps the majority of persons have an exaggerated idea of the cost of a European trip. Learn today at what a moderate cost you can fulfill your desire to see the won- ders of Europe. Your government has pre- pared handsomely illustrated travel booklets of itineraries, costs and ship accommodations. Send for them today —free and without obligation. Investigate Now This unusual opportunity to go abroad at a moderate cost on the great U.S. Government ships operated by the United States Lines should command your in- terest. Early Sailings Are: Geo. Washington Oct. 6—Nov. 13 Leviathan Oct. 20—Nov. 10 Pres. Roosevelt Oct. 23—Nov. 24 Pres. Harding Oct.27—Dec. 4 In addition there are five splen- did cabin ships direct to Cobh (Queenstown), Cherbourg and London and three to Bremen including the S. S. America, largest cabin ship in the world. Find out about the low cost of this unsurpassed service. Mail the Coupon to Washington today You will receive without obligation handsomely illustrated booklets describing Jelightful Euro- pean trips and the magnificent Government ships of the United States Lines. Send the coupon today. a i ae INFORMATION BLANK To U.S. Shipping Board Info. Sect. =, ae D. C. Please send without obligation the U. S. Govern- ment Booklet giving travel facts. I am considering atrip to Europe [), the Orient from Seattle [], the Orient from San Francisco (J, South America QD. Name Address. United States Lines 45 Broadway New York City Canadian Office, 79 Queen St,, W., Toronto Agencies in All Principal Cities Managing Operators for U. S. SHIPPING BOARD

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October 1 THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU 19 WEST INDIES CRUISE 25 Days of $250 up BROAD decks, open airswimming pool, gymnasium,verandah cafe, spacious pub- lic rooms and staterooms specially venti- lated for tropical service—with every cruise comfort, the beautiful triple-screw liner RELIANCE sails on a 25-day cruise to the West Indies, under experienced United American Lines management, From New York—January 8th S.S. RELIANCE Write for West Fy Cruise “‘Booklet G” and ull information. UNITED AMERICAN LINES (Harriman Line) 39 Broadway, New York or local Steamship Agents ITINERARY Havana, |Kingston, Colon, Curacoa; LaGuayra, Port of Spain, Barbados, Fort de France, Nassau. "The LUXURY CRUISE 7 TO THE MEDITERRANEAN PALESTINE~ EGYPT by the famous “*ROTTERDAM”’ Leaving New York, February 6, 1924 Under personal management of the HOLLAND-AMERICA LINE. Outstanding Cruise of the coming Winter Season, of absorbing interest to those who value luxurious comfort at sea, refined environment and pleasing personal service. (SIXTY-FIVE DAYS OF DELIGHTFUL DIVERSION) ITINERARY includes Madeira, Portugal, Spain, Algiers, Greece, Constantinople, the Ho’'y Land and Egypt, Italy and the Riviera. Carefully planned Shore Excursions. Stopover in Europe. Cruise limited to 500 guests Cost of Cruise $825 up Illustrated folder ‘‘O”’ on request The ROTTERDAM 24,170 tons reg., 37,190 tons displt. Has a world-wide reputation for the magnificence and comfort of her ap- pointments, the surpassing excellence of her cuisine and the high standard of service and management on board HOLLAND- AMERICA LINE 21-24 State Street, New York Or any authorixed Steamship Agent j A Lifetimes Travel A vy.) a It in Four Months + FAN AS, 18 tases in Gave Crules To Sail Around the World! To ports of a thousand romances! Canadian Pacific Agents Atlanta 49 N. Forsyth St. Boston 405 Boylston Street Buffalo 160 Pearl Street Chicago 40 N. Dearborn St. Cincinnati 430 Walnut Street Cleveland 1040 Prospect Ave. Detroit 1239 Griswold St. Duluth Soo Line Depot Kansas City, Mo. = Railway Exchange dg. Los Angeles 605 S. Spring St. Minneapolis 611 2nd Ave., S Montreal 141 Saint James St. New York _ Ave. at 44th St. Philadelphia Locust & 15th St. Pittsburgh 340 Sixth Avenue Portland, Ore. 55 Third St. San Francisco 675 Market St. Seattle 608 Second Avenue St. Louis 420 Locust Street Tacoma 1113 Pacific Ave. Toronto 1 King St., East Vancouver C. P. R. Station Washington, D. C. 1419 New York Ave. Winnipeg Portage & Main St. Ja ewe for the first time, you can make the Grand Tour on the magnificent Empress of Canada (26,650 tons displacement) under Canadian Pacific management. This simple statement guarantees the high character of this Cruise Magnificent scheduled to sail from New York, January 30, 1924. Everything will be Canadian Pacific standard—there is none better. What golden experiences, what priceless memories these four months will give you-four months that yield a lifetime’s travel! Fare $1600 and up from starting point in United States or Canada, back to starting point. Limit 500 guests. Shore excursions at ports of call included in fare. Privilege of side trip across India. Fifteen days over- land Shanghai to Yokohama. Eight days across the Flowery Kingdom. Privilege of stop-over in China or Japan, using any later Empress to Vancouver. Romance in excelsis. The last stone in the arch of culture. The greatest of all va- cations. Around the globe under the flag of a Canadian Pacific Empress. The world is a passing pageant at your feet. Let the nearest Canadian Pacific Steamship Agent send you booklet and particulars. Let him look after all arrangements for you. (’ li Pa offe IT SPANS THE WORLD Round the World Cruise CANADIAN PACIFIC OFFICES ALL OVER THE WORLD aR i BR aw

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VOGUE New York’s Most Distinctive Hotel na Ge Ambassador A name which means hotel perfection—Ambassador The Ambassador Hotels System The AMBASSADOR, New York TheAMBASSADOR, AtlanticCity The AMBASSADOR, Los Angeles The ALEXANDRIA, Los Angeles 2 The FW orl?’s Most Beautiful Resort Hotel Allantic City Ask us anything about travel The Condé Nast International Travel Bureau will answer all travel questions and arrange all travel matters for Vogue readers, by mail, or by personal interview. For example, here are some of the things the Travel Bureau will gladly do for you: Furnish Travel Literature: If you’re interested in any par- ticular trip, or locality, in this coun- try or abroad, ask us to send you some of the interesting literature which we have on file. Plan Itineraries: Tell us where and when you plan to go, and for. how long, and about how much you plan to spend on the trip. We will suggest an itinerary accommodated to your time and purse. We'll help you make and get the utmost out of both. Make Reservations: At your request we will make reservations for you on railroad and steamship lines, whether separately or for a ’round-the-world tour; and at the hotels and resorts enroute, or where you plan to stay for the season. Bookings: You can remit to us for accommodations desired, and we will make the bookings, buying and sending to you the tickets, receipts, etc., ordered. Travelers’ Checks or Letters of Credit: We will tell you how and where to purchase the safest and most convenient forms in which to carry money. Introductions: We will fur- nish you with cards of introduction, to be presented to the manager cf the hotel where you elect to stay, assuring you of special courtesy and attention. Insurance: We will recommend or arrange insurance against per- sonal accident or loss of baggage. You can telephone, telegraph or write freely for any information or advice which will facilitate your fullest possible enjoyment of the many opportunities offered by modern travel. cf any kind. There is no charge or obligation The Condé Nast Travel Bureau 21 West 45th Street New York City THE (GLEN PRINGS WATKINS GLEN. N. Y ON SENECA LAKE sporty» Golf Course “*Half a block from Herald Square’’ HOTEL COLLINGWOOD 45 West 35th Street New York City Seta H. Mose.ey Three Great Hotels THE WALDORF ASTORIA New York THE BELLEVUE-STRATFORD Philadelphia THE NEW WILLARD Washington, D. C. The mystery of Egypt, the color of Madeira,the love- liness of Italy, the whirl of Monte Carlo! All part of one glorious voyage! Egypt and the Mediterranean | The White Star liner Adriatic—January 5, Feb- ruary 23. The Red Star liner Lapland—January 16, March 5. West Indies Havana, Jamaica, the Panama Canal, Hayti, Carta- gena—glamorous names—interesting places. Time to see and enjoy them on a cruise of twenty-nine happy days. The White Star liner Megantic—specially constructed for cruising—January 23, February 26. All sailings from New York For complete itineraries and detailed informa- tion, please enquire at No. 1 Broadway, New York City, or any authorized steamship agent. WHITE STAR LINE RED STAR LINE THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU NEW YORK To have stayed at HOTEL ASTOR is to have dived in New York TIMES SQUARE—Broadway, 44th and 45th Street where you are in the very center of the City’s brilliant, pulsating life and breathe its sparkling atmosphere. Fred’k A. Muschenheim Hotel St.James 109-113 West 45th St., New York City Times Square Midway between Fifth Ave. and Broadway An hotel of quiet dignity, having the atmos- phere and appointments of a_well-conducted home. Much favored by women traveling with- out escort. 3 minutes’ walk to 40 theatres and all best shops. Rates and booklet on application W. JOHNSON QUINN COLORADO The BROADMOOR COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO. At this Famous Resort Autumn lingers into the New Year This time is most delightful for Motoring, Riding, Golfing, Camping, Hunting, Fishing or Boating | Open All Year and Fireproof. CLARK’S 4th CRUISE ROUND THE WORLD From N.Y. Jan. 15 by ppoctalty chartered new | Cunarder **Laconia,’’ 20,000 | mating itinerary including Havana, Panama Canal, Los Angeles, Hawaiian Islands. 18 tons, over a fasci- days in Japan and China, Manila, Java, Singa- pore. Burmah, option 18 days in India, Cairo, Jerusalem, Athens, stop-over privileges in Europe. Naples, Riviera, with 4 MONTHS, $1,000 up Including Hotels, Drives, Guides, Fees, etc. CLARK’S 2ist CRUISE, FEB. 2nd ne MEDITERRANEAN BAL specialty chartered, sumptuous S. S. C (White Star Line), 23,884 tons. 65 days’ cruise. 18 days in Egypt and Palestine; Spain, Athens, Rome, etc. $600 up, including Hotels, Guides, Drives, Fees, etc. Frank C. Clark, TimesBidg..N.Y. NEW ENGLAND | The LENOX The BRUNSWICK BOSTON On Either Side of Copley Sq. PHILADELPHIA | | THE RITZ-CARLTON Philadelphia Continental atmosphere. Rooms, cuisine and service of supreme ex- cellence. In the center of the Fash- ionable as well as business life. Under the direction of David B. Provan ATLANTIC CITY Atlantic City, N. J. AMERICA’S SMARTEST RESORT HOTEL Famous for its perfect cuisine and service Gustave Tott, Manager

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October 1 ‘ THE CONDE NAST TRAVEL BUREAU gia —_ San Francisco's ‘Sams Palace of Cfine cArts » its massive sculptured columns reflected in a mystic pool, the Palace of Fine Arts suggests an ancient Greek temple. No visitor to San Francisco should fail to visit this unique treasure house of art, which regularly displays collections of in- ternational fame. And all within a few minutes’ ride of THE PALACE HotTeL—the center of San Francisco’s business and shopping districts. “InSan Francisco Its The Palace” THE PALACE HOTEL Management Halsey € Manwaring. Market atNew Montgomery St San Francisco THE NATION’S SHRINE “No spot on earth—not the plains of Marae thon, nor the place of Bastille, nor the dykes of Holland, nor the moors of England—is 50 sacred to the struggle for human liberty as | Valley Forge.’’—Cyrus Townsend Brady. RISP autumn weather and excellent roads from all parts of the country are bringing more motorists than ever to this interesting sec- tion of the country where the Republic was born. The Bellevue-Stratford, Philadelphia’s largest and best hotel, is the acceptea headquarters for motorists who appreciate the exceptional facili- ties offered by that hotel to make a visit to these scenes of undying interest, a never-to-be-for- gotten delight. SEND FOR HISTORICAL ROAD MAP Marking and describing the places of interest in and around Philadelphia. It is yours for the asking. She BELLEVUE- STRATFORD L, M. BOOMER JAMES P. A. O'CONOR President Managing Director AFFILIATED: WITH ME of witchery—good cheer—mystery!’ Twould seem a magic wand had created the unique favors Louis Sherry has imported from Paris for the occasion. Quaint novelties of individuality—things not found elsewhere, which instantly reflect thoughtfulness and discrimination—especially when filled with delicious Sherry Chocolates and Bon Bons. cleuis Shey 300 PARK AVENUE FIFTH AVENUE AT 58TH STREET THE WALDORF-ASTORIA ae oe

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22 ADNAN ELT VOGUE PARIS FASHIONS Number of VOGUE ee dated October 15 October 15-1923 This ts the cover of the next Vogue— though black and white can’t do its lovely colour justice. © Vogue You’re holding “The Early Paris Openings Number” of Vogue in your hand now. But “The Paris Fashions Num- ber” itself is yet to come. “Heavens!” you murmur weak- ly, “is there more?” . . . . Ah, madame, if you but knew! Some of the smartest, the most amazing creations are those held back by the great houses. Some of the most signifi- cant modifications are those the Parisienne herself sug- gests. Any Vogue, of course, is always important; but the next Vogue is as important as two Vogues in one! New York creations and importations will also be shown; accessories whose novelty equals their beauty; frocks for the sixteen-year-old girl in which she'll look and feel \her hest. There'll be five pages of weddings and what to do at them besides just getting married—chiefly what to wear, of course, and what not to. GUE Powe 45 Cents Pvris PAs HIONS nt In the Shops Department, you'll be presented to a delight- ful little collection of things you’re sure to need between seasons—new blouses, knitted clothes for the country, a négligée, a bit of lingerie. Then—Vogue tells you just how the most successful débu- tants of today come out. Dinners, balls, thé dansants— they’re all discussed. And what the modern mother thinks, and how she keeps step with her astounding child. Cushions. Did you know how interesting they could be? . . . Neither did Vogue until it read Robert Locher’s little article with all the R. L. sketches in it—sketches of cush- ions designed by the artist himself. And you'll be sur- prised to see how practical genius can be when it stoops to giving recipes for the concocting of these new cushions on which to rest the feet, cushions to tuck into the nape of the neck, as well as cushions to fulfill the usual cushion- destiny, which is to sit still and look fat... . Doesn’t it sound like an entertaining num- ber? ... But so many people are going to agree with you that you’d better reserve it to-day! VOGUE CONDE NAST, Publisher EDNA WOOLMAN CHASE, Editor HEYWORTH CAMPBELL, Art Director 35 cenis a Copy 19 WEST 44th STREET, NEW YORK CITY NAA $5 a Year

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wet October 1 rmaVurrEenRs AND

N Antiques

WHOLESALE ONLY—Distinctive objects of mod- erate price including Old World and American l’ottery—Metal—Fabric—Wood—Glass—5 floors at Charles Hall, Inc., 18 West 23rd St., New York. ITALIAN—ANTIQUES—AMERICAN Furniture—Giassware Processional Lamps Miss Pauline Krech, 626 Lex. Ave., N.Y. Plaza 5438

BUYERS 23 GUIDE

A classified list of business concerns which we recommend to the patronage of our readers Shoppers’ & Buyers’ Guide, VOGUE, 19 West Forty-Fourth Street, New York Advertising rates given upon request

Arts and Crafts CANADIAN HOMESPUNS, direct from looms of _—? habitants. Satmpses, state cours. Murray Bay Blankets, tufted bedspreads, table covers, etc. Canadian Homespuns, Ltd., 347 Craig West, Montreal. ARTISTS—DE ESIGNERS Greeting and , Cards

Beauty Culture—Cont. Books

MME. MAYS Face Specialist. Est. 30 years. Per- mianently removes wrinkles, freckles, scars, etc. Muscles tightened; endorsed by physicians. Bkit. One address: 50 W. 49th St... N. Y. Bryant 9426. tt! , ore ti leaned “ ao by Marian Cutter. Catalog with New Book’ List Forty-five Cents. — eaten , 108 E. 57th aes

MARINELLO SHOP A Beauty Aid for every need. Marinello Experts in Attendance. Under direct supervision of Marinello Co.

Boudoir Accessories

Ww ——— i. a rial. e@ pay erally for ¢§ mate MARINELLO TEA GOWNS, Negligees, Paiamas and Lounge Communicate with Western Expert Dept. Eastern Expert Dept. covers, Latest French “creations. Large "assortment The — meetin. _ Co. sa, 804 Tower Court Bldg. 366 Fifth Ave., Suite 603 | of mules. Prices reasonable. Mlle. Marie, Maison Station ‘‘H,’’ Dept. Ohio Chicago, Ill, New York Francaise, 547 Madison Ave., N. Y. C. Plaza 4432.

A SHOP OF HIGH reais Madame Berthe’s Zip positively destroys Hair with Artistically unique batik, handweaving, dyeing, etc., | roots. No electricity or caustics. Free demonstra- for home and personal decoration. Unusual gifts. | tion at office. Write Free Book. Mme. Bate. Bestcrafts, 7 East 39th St., N. Y. C. Specialist, 562-5th Ave. (46th St.), Dept. 8, N.

Art-Needlework EXCLUSIVE ITALIAN LINENS. Reticello Cutwork — from classic antique designs, adapted to m uses. Dinner, Lunch, Tea, Bridge Tray gets. hid Artedel Lino, 177 MacDougal St.nrW ashn.Sq.N.Y Auction Bridge and Mah Jong LILLIAN SHERMAN RICE, 231 W. 96th St., N.Y. Author of Auction Bridge in a usshell, Private. & classes. Game taught in 6 lessons, Also by mail. In- ferences. Concentration a specialty. ‘Tel. T404 River. YOUR OWN NAME ON BRIDGE SCORES 250 officially ruled sheets, 6x9 in. Your name on each sheet. Postpaid anywhere, $2. Agents wanted. Beach Company, 904 Sycamore, Ci 0. LIDA FISHER GILDER—140 West 57th See Auction Bridge (Whitehead System). Mah Jongg Private and class lessons for advanced students. Beginners tutored. Tel. Circle 3053. warrene STONES ° Better Auction For the beginner and advanced player. A pocket edition of simple rules on Bidding & Play. Modern experts compared on important points, An attraetive gift or bridge prize. Price $1. Freda MacMahon, Box 227, Moutelair, N v.J. x JAMES LEE SHELTON—Vanderbilt Hotel, Y. Original and creative ‘method. Concen- trated instruction. Private, group ciasses. Memory, psychology, card valuation, distribution, club practice. MAH-JONGG RACKS. Red or black lacquer, go:d dragons. Ho'd ti.es ideal angle for play. Length & weight make wall building easy. Doubling chart & wind position. $10 set of 4. A.V.Scott, Red Bank, N.J. S. C. HUNG, MAH-JONG INSTRUCTOR. Learn genuine game as taught by _—o expert. Any num- ber $10 an evening or $2 an hour each person. panes at your home. Sets $16 up. Tel. Gramercy 6825, MAH JONG TABLE COVER—Excellent =e cream linen, colored embroidered ‘‘Chinese Charac- ters’’ in corners. Will convert your bridge table. 1 00 each. L. Reiss Co., 152 West 42nd St., N. Y. GOWNS—ready to wear. At attractive little shops on New York’s exc'usive side streets. Interesting. Babies’ Things HAND MADE baby garments by French needle- work artists. Fine materia’s. Dainty, exquisite. Domestic prices. Infants to 3 years. On approval. Conway’s, 1200 St. Char'es Ave., New Orleans. VIRGINIA’S AIR OF REFINEMENT reflected in handmade children’s wear to 3 years. Layettes and French Bonnets specialty. No catalog. On ap- proval. Ideal Baby & Gift Shop, Roanoke, Va. HAND-WOVEN BABY BLANKETS in variety cf designs and each in a picture box, making artistic gifts. Launder beautifully. Write for particulars. The Tenafly Weavers, Tenafly, N. J. Beads and Beaded Bags oe can’t make a silk purse out of sow’s ear.”’ Joe Michel 37 W. 39th &.. N.. ¥. Steel Bead Drawstring and Miser Bags EXCLUSIVE MODELS MADE-TO-ORDER in silks, tapestries and brocades. Recoverings a specialty. Send for catalog & prices. Wm. Nibur, 2432 B’way, Be. Saiayler 1518 REPAIRING OF SILK AND BEADED BArs Frames for Beaded bags. Silk bags to order. Catalogue upon request. A. L. Workman, 1 West 34th Street, N. Y. C. LADIES’ HAND BAGS esrecially appealing to women of taste. Charming designs made to order i> velvet, silk, tapestry. Mounting & repairing of beede bags. A. Groner, 2277 B’way, 81st-82nd St.,N. Y

Beauty Culture

DO YOU KNOW THE MUSCLE in your face which prevents pone Learn to exercise it and be you r x % 8. Ferrol, 200 West 72nd ‘St, MME. JULIAN’S HAIR DESTROYER oe eradicates all supertiuous hair (with roots), No electricity or poison. Stood test 50 years. Mme. Julian West 47th Street, N. Y.

" SAGGING CHEEKS LIFTED Wrinkles smoothed out and the contour restored. Device concealed by hair. Literature mailed free. Faceaid Studios, 1482 Broadway, New York. EYEBROWS & LASHES Permanently Attractive. Darken them with Coloura! Adds winsome expres-

sion. Will not wash off. $1.20 ppd.; treatment 50c at Spiro’s, 26 W. 38th St. and 24 w. 46th St., N.Y.

velope upon request. D. J. Mahler, Wrinkles? BAUME RE d’lON magically restores Youth’s radiant firmness! Delicious; pine scented; easily applied. Call or write for booklet. Leona Libbé, 182 West 58th St., Dept. V, New York. WEIGHT REDUCTION—FACIAL HAIRS, birth marks, moles, treated by latest methods. No pain. All work receives my personal attention. Brady. Endorsed by Edith Wrase Matthison. st § ranch offices in N. é y, Mt we oyage ASRS also White Plains, New Rochelle, Newport & Paris. Studio $1 Riverside Drive ow Youk, Cy Filed to th —— a 9k ‘ Se Ss nov w bh yh beg 3 —— & please e individual. Steamer, con- yeing, carments, fabrics, gloves, etc. Fancy Dyeing, 2 valescent and vanity baskets. Exceptional gifts. | laces, chiffons, feathers, satin slippers to match. Dress Accessories Alice H. Marks, 4 W. 50th St., N.Y. Tel. Circle 3481 | Mail orders. Catalog. Sadleir, 17 W. 34th St.. N.Y Mah Jong is move than a fad. Learn ARTHUR CHEGNAY—121 East 57th St., N. Y¥. C. | MIADA LINGERIE GUARDS— Well groomed women this most fascinating game of the High Class Exnert French Cleaner and Dyer, | need thisarticle, which, attached tothe gown. insures ancients. Consult the instructors street and evening Gowns, Suits, Velvets, etc., | comfort, neatness & security. Black,White, vs Ten pairs $1 ppd. Miada Co., 18 W. 43rd St., N. ¥. C.

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VOGUE . Dress Forms Gowhs & Blouses Made-to-Order Jewelry & Precious Stones—Cont. Monograms and Woven Names PNEU-FORM—The Pneumatic Dress Form. Gowns fitted without personal try-on: Inflated in fitted lining, gives exact figure. Fitted linings. Pneu-Form, 16 West 46th St., N. Y. Bryant 5338 MME. MARTHA makes dresses of unusual charm to suit your individual taste, at moderate prices. Also remodelling. 129 East 60th Street, N. Y. Tel. 6539 Plaza JEWELRY OF FINE QUALITY ATA wide range of prices. Special orders promptly executed Silberstein, Bway at 92nd St. Riverside 9175 Employment Agencies LAZARE AGENCY INC., 624 ee ty AVE. Y. C. (59th St.) Plaza 9 A national institution supplying a a clientele with superior domestic help. Entertainment PUNCH & JUDY SHOW, for Children’s parties, including sleight of hand’ and magic tricks and ventriloquism. Ambrose =. 44 Eldert St., EXCLUSIVE FABRICS & DESIGNS inimported ma- terials. Dresses hand-made to order for all occasions. Samples submitted. Reasonable prices. Elizabeth Roberts, 507 W. 113th St., N.Y.C. Cathedral 7380 NECKLACES, 48-inch Central American Togua beads; distinct novelty, $8.76. Sent upon receipt check or money order. Money refunded if unsat- isfactory. Togua Co., 64 Nassau Street, New York EMBROIDERED INITIALS & a on your own linens. Orders being taken now for Christmas delivery. French rome BE on_sale. Booklet. Janon Company, 21 East 57th Street, N. Y. CASH’S WOVEN NAMES for marking clothing, household & hotel linen, etc. Write for styles and prices. J. & J. Cash, ine., 622 Chestnut St., Norwalk, Conn. England, France, Australia, Canada INDIVIDUALITY IN DRESS—Herminette can make you a dress that will not only conform to Fashion, but express’ your personality, as well. Write 1044 Lex. Ave. . N. Y. or ’phone Rhine. 1316 WRONE & WRONE Purchase diamonds, precious 45 East 44th ee stones, pearls, ay gold, aiver. New York C phage. Indl’s & Estate: Adjoining Vals. ‘Chub st. 30 yrs. ty or Reg. Maii GOWNS, BLOUSES & RUSSIAN COSTUMES Your old gowns remodeled into newest creations equal to new at moderate prices Bacia, 38. West 47th St., N. Y. Bryant 0513 Jewelry and Silverware Bought Gowns Bought CASH FOR JEWELRY, Diamonds, Gems, Gold, Silver, new or broken. Prices now exceptionally high. Established 40 years. Mme. Naftal, 69 West 45th St., New York. Tel. Bryant 670 “INDELLO TRANSFERS’ (just ironed on). Permanently mark your clothing & linens quickly. 200 Names & 400 Initials or (400 names only) $2. Permanent Marking Co., Chestnut Hill, Phila., Pa. EMBROIDER your own LINENS with perforated Mono Letter patents. 8 styles. 4 sizes of a letter & marking outfit. 50c. Samples. Monogram Perforations to order. Mono Co., 61 West 106th St., N. Y. Mourning Apparel Brooklyn, N. Y. Foxcroft 3575 PLANNING A CHILDREN’S PARTY? We both plan and entertain. Send .for booklet. Children’s Entertainment Bureau, 70 East 45th Street, N Vanderbilt 1536 MAGIC TRICKS—PUNCH & JUDY SHOW The greatest funmaker for parties, presented by one of New York’s best Children’s Entertainers. Chas. Winters, 158 E. 88th St., N. Y. Lenox 6672-J. Fancy Dress and Costumes Bite WINNING COSTUMES” ae ye ee | For Rent or Sale—To Order or From Stock. Bayer- Schumacher, 67-69 W. 46th St., N.Y. ya 1834. BEHRENS MASQUERADE & THEATRICAL Costumes. Exclusive designs in fancy dress made- to-order and rented. Behrens Costume Co., 120 W. 48th St., N. Y. Bryant 4437 Flesh Reduction REDUCE WEIGHT & qeaeece THE FIGURE without diet or medicine. We possess every device— Electrical & Mechanical—for successful treatment. Dr. Savage Institute, 253 Madison Ave. Van. 8593 FAT REDUCED: Thermo electric medium; satis- factory results; Swedish gymnastics and massage. No diet; rheumatism benefited. Miss Frye, graduate nurse, 233 W. 107th St., N. Y. Tel. Academy 1106. SUPERFLUOUS FLESH REDUCED by modern scientific method, without payment until reduction, if desired. Dr. R. Newman, Licensed Physician, 286 Fifth Ave. (near 30th St.), New York City. BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM METHOD Ring Roller—Bergonie Chair—Electric —_ Baths. R. Ross, oo Therapist, dison Ave., cor. 41st St., N 2. Sa WV enserbite 6290 A BOOKLET BY DR. DENSMORE on treatment for reduction of Corpulency will be mailed without charge upon request to t. “y"* Dep Garfield Tea Go., 313-41st Street "Brooklyn, N. Y. MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 670, will buy your misfit or slightly used street and evening dresses, suits, wraps, ete. Highest cash value. Satisfactory service to patrons at a distance. 69 W. 45th St., N.Y. HAVE YOU ANY WANTS? A quick reference to the Shoppers’ and Buyers’ Guide will satisfy them. ARTHUR MULLEN—I9 E. 49th St., N.Y. Mourning and Stunning Black Hats, Veils, Gowns, Blouses and Bags. Plaza 2698. Bryant 1376—WE PAY CASH—Bryant 1376 For Slightly Used or Discarded Gowns, Suits, Wraps Furs, ete. Diamonds, Precious Stones, Jewelry, Silverware, Antiques, House Furnishings, ete. Consult us first before you sell. Unlimited Capital at our disposal Highest prices—Full value guaranteed. Bank and ciety wg I Write, Phone, Call or Mme. Furman, 101-103 West 47th “ste N. Y. C. Telephone Bryant 1376 MME. NAFTAL, Tel. Bryant 670, pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used evening & street frocks, furs, diamonds, jewelry, silverware. 69 West 45th Street, New York. Gowns and Blouses Ready-to-Wear The Fan. More Specialty Shop—Our Ladies’ & Misses’ Models for immediate delivery & those to order will suit your individuality. Personal attention to Design, Quality & Price. 51 W. 50th St., N.Y. MARGURITE B. KELLENS makes smart street suits—dainty evening & afternoon gowns. Fine work. Remodeling like new. Prompt attention to mail orders. 143 West 69th St., N. Y. Endicott 9558 Link bracelets 714” long, 14” wide. op one, black enamel center on green gold backing. Price $10.25. Second one, een enamel design on green gold Backi king. Price $10.95. Last one, green - filigree links, $7.00. May be pur- chased through Vogue Shopping Service Hair Coloring Ladies’ Tailor LOOK YOUR a ae Pokorny’s haircoloring (henna shampoo), $2.50 box. Hairdyeing applica- tion on premises. Transformations, Switches, etc. Pokorny, 50 East 34th Street, New York. PAULA MORGAN will restore your hair to. its natural shade in a short time. Scientific face mas- sage. Invisible a switches, etc. Paula Morgan, 846-6th Ave., N. Y. Hair Goods Furniture & Furnishings for Home MANUEL—The originator of the Modern Trans- formation and —- i Parting. Specialist. in all kinds of hai Booklet on request. Manuel, 29 Bast 48 48th St., N. Y¥. City. J. TUZZOLI, 27 West 46th St., N.Y., makes a suit for $65 which cannot be duplicated under $125. Quality & material faultless in make & fit. Also Coats & Dresses reasonable. Furs remodeled. Lingerie and Laces LINGERIE, — LINEN SETS Mrs. Nicholas Biddle, €. A. “Millar Mrs. Clinton Work 644 Madison Ave., N. Y Plaza 1996 M. COLLART—BRIDAL “‘516—-vasGeekA on 23 E. 54th St., N. Y. Lingerie of best quality and style, hand- at with real Valenciennes and other fine laces. Moderately priced. WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART — Ideal trousseau gifts. Made only on order. Finest matcrials used. Illustrated booklet V sent on request. Wilkinson Sisters, Ligonier, Ind. Hair and Scalp Treatment ony ALLEN, FURNITURE, 40 East 60th St., N.Y.C. Plaza 7753. Painted Nest Tables $29. Pleated Lamp Shades of Glazed Chintz and Book Cloth. All furnishings. WALDEYER & BETTS—Scalp Specialists. advice and scientific treatment of hair and 665 Fifth Avenue, N. 43 Rue Godot de Mauroy, Paris Expert scalp. BEDROOM, DINING ROOM & LIVING ROOM Furnjture direct from factory at remarkable sav- ings. Tremendous stocks; beautiful displays. Visit us when in New York. Ruder Bros., 18 E. 48th St. APPLIQUE QUILTS Patterns and materials. Orders taken for quilting. Materials and work the best. ‘ Caden, Lexington, Kentucky. SMALL DECORATED TABLES for coffee, tea, cigarettes, magazines, etc., of distinctive charm. Designed and made by us. Unlike any seen else- where. Herter Looms, Inc., 19 E. 55th St., N. Y. C. ALNWICK BEDSPREADS. Exquisite old designs worked by hand on durable material. Require no iron- ing. Made to measure without extra charge. Assort- mentonapproval. Handwork Shop, Poughkeepsie, N. Y. Furs EXPERT FUR REMODELING at prices below normal during Fall months. Out-of-town orders receive immediate attention. Established 1886. Hirshfel@d Fur Co., Inc., 71 W. 46th St., N. Y. BUY DIRECT from the manufacturer Latest Styles. Bottom prices. Write for catalog and discount. Herman Ree! Co. Milwaukee, Wis. Coatees from exclusive manufacturer, also Coats, Wraps & Searfs of every desirable fur. Unusually low prices. Remodeling, best workmanship guaran- teed. Rosner Bros., 396-5th Ave. (Take Elevator). Golf Schools and Shops UNDER THE PERSONAL DIRECTION of Mr. C. L. Motherseie, Featuring ‘‘The Better Balanced Driver.”’ Everything for the Golfer. Cc. L. Mothersele, 10 E. 45th St. Vanderbilt 0588 “BEAUTIFUL HAIR by common sense methods.’’ Scientific! Simple! Sure! Send for new free book. Ogilvie Sisters, Scalp Specialists, 505 Fifth Avenue, New York. PREMATURELY GREY HAIR RESTORED with one application of Andre’s Oriental Coloring. ieee the hair a soft, glossy, youthful appearance. rice $2.25. André, 57 West 39th Street, N. Y. Hemstitching, Plaiting and Buttons BUTTONS COVERED, gy + Legge ta Plaiting. Hemstitching ; plain, Picot edge, zigzag, curves. Ruttons: customers’ own material. Plaiting all styles. Mail order catalog. Sadleir, 17 W. 34th St., N. Y. Hosiery Repaired We Specialize in REPAIRING French Sheer Hose. Runs & Pull Threads repaired on all makes of sik hosiery, & made to look like new. Lenox Hosiery Repair Service, 2 West 47th St., _3 Interior Decoratorsand Decorations LAURA WAND—Consulting Decorator wishes to announce that until October 15th she will be in Europe, planning and obtaining new ideas for Fall & Winter decorating Maids’ Uniforms NURSES’ 1 1 Silat ASS’N, 425 5th Av., N.Y. Dresses, $4.50 u Caps, 25¢e up. Aprons, 75c to $8. Coats, $42.50 up. Hats, $8.50 up. Catalog ‘‘V’’ on request Maternity Apparel BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSETS, Belts and Brassieres. Exclusive and invisible enlargement feature. Dress as usual; Write for Booklet No. 14. Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York. BERTHE MAY’S Maternity DRESSES, LAYETTES Exclusive models at reasonable prices. rite for —. s portfolio No. 14. Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., New York. THE SHOP OF BLACK, 2643 Bway, N.Y., River. 2696. Correct mourning apparel. Veils, gowns, blouses. Matrons’ hats of individual character in mourning & black. $10 hats in black a specialty. No catalog. Patterns PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE from illustra- tions, description of model. Fit guaranteed. Special attention to mail orders. Mrs. S. Weisz, 111 Lexington Avenue, at 28th Street, New York. LET US HELP make your fashionable dresses A half the time. Will cut —. Instruction easy to follow. Cost $2.50. Webbers’ ane. 115 So. 40th Street, Philadelphia, Pa. Perfumes MYSTIKUM. Europe’s Premier Perfume. Mystery of fresh cut flowers—from laboratories Scherk - Berlin. At smart shops. 10c in stamps = sample. Scherk Importing Co., 45 W. 47th St., N. Y. C. JASPY MYRODATA—Most Parisian 5 perfumes, extracts, powders, compacts. At best shops or direct from us. Send for illus. catalogue. N. Y. French Exports, Inc., 8 West 47th St., N. Y Permanent Hair Wave Visit the Smartest Beauty Shop in ee York for Perfect Style and — in Permanent Waving 4 Robert 675 Fifth Prema | Se 4 CALL AT SCHAEFFER’S if you want expert personal attention for a permanent wave. Positively no friz or kink. J. Schaeffer, 590-592 Fifth Av. Phone Bryant 7615 NESTLE’S Originators of Lanoil Waving. World- Famous Experts. 12 and 14 East 49th St. New York. Phone Vanderbilt 7660-7661. MY SPECIALTY PERMANENT LARGE WAVE At last, white hair waved without making it yellow. Bobbed hair all in ringlets. J. Halloh, 36 East 48th Street, N. Y. * °WVanderbilt 5241. LOUISE BERTHELON, 48 E. 49th St. Seven years with Nestle. will cheerfully patch up your permanent wave to make it last longer. Water waving $1.00. Murray Hill 2768 MARIO & FREDERICK, INC. Permanent Wave Specialists formerly with C. Nestle Co. Will give you their personal expert attention the result being the duplicate of a large natural wave 17 East 48th Street, N. Y. Vanderbilt 6897 NIE Exclusive Salon de Beauté Large, smooth, lasting permanent wave. 402 Madison Ave., at 47th St., Vanderbilt 7099. PAUL—Quality Work. "Personal Service. White Hair a Specialty. No Kink. No Friz. 5 years Biltmore Hotel. Late Associate J. Schaeffer, Inc., 586-5th Ave., Gs: Phone Bryant 9964. Memorials MEMORIALS FOR EVERY PURPOSE. In granite, marble, bronze and glass. Individual considera- tion. Sketches upon request. State requirements. The Davis Memorial Co., Syracuse, N. Y. Shoes and Custom Shoes SHOECRAFT SHOP ‘‘fits the narrow heel’’ in sizes 1-10, AAAA to E. French and English models in street and evening footwear. Send for Catalog VS. Fit et 714-5th Ave., New York Millinery and Feathers FEATHER FANCIES, burnt goose, peacock, etc. Paradise & Aigrette rebranched. New effects from old ostrich feathers. Dyeing & curling. Puee mail service. K. Methot, 38 W. 34th St.. N. Y. C. REMODELER OF HATS. Have your “ag Hats remodeled into latest Styles. Hats copied from Vogue designs. Mail orders a specialty. Prices rea- bl Irene Franks, 37 West 48th St., N. Y. Jewelry and Precious Stones FRANK C. HUTCHINSON BUYS DIAMONDS, precious stones and individual pieces of jewelry or rp F estates to be settled. Expert appraising. Gowns Remodeled “THE MENDING SHOP.” Gowns hk Suits Blou “Gowns led up-to-date. and Refitted. Miss H. Reddin Coughlin, 17 E. 48th &t., N. ¥. No Branches. 5062 Murray Hill. Ee. & &. MEARES will = ne SS oe = the latest and advanced styles. Also to order. Original ideas. 134 West ist St. ~ % Y. Tel. Schuvler 1995. Ave., N. Y.C., opp. Hotel Biltmore RANDOLPH J. TRABERT CO., Formerly with Black, Starr & Frost. Jewel Brokers & Authorized Apprais- ers. Jewels purchased from estates & private parties. Guaranty Trust Co. Bldg., Room 506, 522-5th Ave. MURIEL PEARL NECKLACES eee lustrous beauty rivals the Oriental deep gem. A French indestructible pearl, ya inches graduated. Guaranteed not to peel or discolor. 10K. white gold safety clasp ~* with small diamond. An unusual importation ts the low price of $8.50 each. Attractively "Sened. M. . 45 West 34th Street, New York City. Gowns & Blouses Made-to-Order a. iat ae AND NECKLACES 8 a Expert Opsel, 300 Fink Avenoc N.Y. ©. id Lexington 2 Miscellaneous HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. Kathryn Dudley opens or closes town & country houses, installs cleaners, attends torepairs, engages servants. Personal super- vision. c/o E. Johnson, 52 E. 97th St., Apt. 4-0, N.Y. MFGR. of HAND-MADE CHILDREN’S DRESSES needs several reliable women to take orders. aaa! pean for women with good social Box 156, Davenport, Iowa. FOX HILL APPLES They come straight from the tree to you, sun-riped to the core and perfectly packed. Grimes Golden, one of the most delicious varieties, is ready now. Beautiful, large, juice-laden and known for its delightful flavor, it is the ideal table delicacy. Not sold through dealers. $5.00 a bu., $3.00 a % bu. (delivered free in the first two parcel post zones). 8S. C. Eshleman, Grower McKnightstown, Pennsylvania. ACK’S a ae! (Creators) 154 West 45th St., N. Y., opp. Lyceum Theatre. Paris inspires, America adapts, thus do Jack’s shoe styles have the verve of originality. SHORT AND MEDIUM VAMP SHOES French and Ameriean Models. Round or Pointed Toes. Best for High Insteps. Catalog ‘‘V.’’ J. Glassberg, 225 West 42nd Street, New York THE ORIGINAL SHORT VAMP SHOE SHOP— Always specialized in bench-made French shoes long before they became the vogue. Mail orders. Catalog. Wm. Bernstein, 6 West 37th St., N.Y. Shopping Commissions MISS EDITH V. STOVEL, member of the Asso- ciated Purchasing Agents of New York, will shop for or with you in leading shops. No _ charge. 98 Morningside Avenue Tel. Morningside 7022 MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLING Purchasing Agent. Accompanying out-of-town patrons. No charge. References. i. ee A Tel. ort 4193 155 W. 78th St., N. Y. MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York “Shopper. Will shop with you or send anything i you. Send A bulletin Services free 6 Fifth Avenue, New York WRS. GEORGETTE 5 TNEAR EVANS will keep you in touch with *s advanced modes. Will ol for or with you re Chaperoning. Booklet. Hotel San Remo, Central Park West. Endicott e700 “BEAUTIFUL THINGS | SEE’’—Write for Free Fashion Letter with list of bargains. Shops free for or with » saving time and money. Irene Stephens, 144 East 37th Street, New York THE WissES Sonane will make you ond evening gowns bleuses for a_¥ and siso do ew = at reasonab ces. {54 Lexington Ave 29th Bt). N. ¥ Med Bq. S188. | New things for the Fall home—plenty of them—have you seen “Furniture iome”* pg PRICES for wn watches, ris, discarded ’ Money wired with- hours Bank references. Detroit Gold Refiners 402 Capitol Theatre Bidg., Detroit, and Furnishings for the in the ‘Guide’? BLANCHE ADLER—Formerly of the South, will pany out-of- , & : Services gratis. 1 attention orders. Refe fis" Ineside. required. 303 West 122d St, Tek 6046 Morningside. a

Page 33

October 1

Silks FRUTCHEY SILK SHOP, 574 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Mr. Frutchey (Wanamaker’s buyer for 30 years) gladly sends —- of silks, personally selected, for any purpose. ere your patronage is appreciated.

Social Etiquette

CHARM, POISE & PERSONALITY—Overcome self- eonsciousness—Personality analyzed, correct social procedure authoritatively taught personally and by mail. Mile. Louise, Marie Antoinette Hotel, N.Y.C.

Specialty Shops

The Handicraft Shop of Olivia specializes imported & orig. linens, smocked baby dresses, coats & caps. Knitted garments. Unusual bags. Ref. for approval shipments. 12 W. Putnam Ave., Greenwich, Conn. CAMPING THIS FALL? _ The *‘Guide’’ will prove invaluable in the selection of proper things for the camp.

Stationery

STATIONERY OF DISTINCTION for people of distinction. Box of 100 sheets & 100 envelopes all engraved in black, blue or gold with any 3-line name address by our process-engraving, sent prepaid for $2.95. Finest Vellum paper; white, gray, blue or buff. Full size sheets, single or folded style. 20c extra, west of Miss. The Covington Co., Dept. E, 110 West 40th St., N. Y. Toilet Preparations

THE WONDER CORN SHIELD—Patented method pusitively prevents shoe-pressure upon aching co.n or calious. 25¢ a pkg. Sent anywhere. Dr. Paul Wetzel, 29 Clove Rd., New Rochelle, N.Y. TROUBLED WITH SOFT CORNS, perspiring feet or other foot discomforts? Use Odex; cures quickiy. Mail! $1 money order. Satisfaction or money returned. Odex Products Co., 5 No. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.

Travelling

INDESTRUCTO Insured Trunks Take most of the discomfort out of any journey—and cost no more. Unusual Gifts BERTHA TANZER, 544 E. 2lst St., Bklyn, N. Y. I have most interesting Ma Jong accessories, as well as sets at $5, $10, and $15. Write me your wants. ARTISTIC GIFTS FROM EUROPE personally seiected by me from individual crafts- men. Catalog for Trade only. Rena _ Rosenthal, 520 Madison Avenue, near 50th St., N. Y. City

PARISIAN NOVELTY. Moired wrist band with cut initial of ‘‘Marcasite’’ %x%%”. Any initial to order. Price $6.00. Fads & Fancies, 437-5th Avenue, N. Y. HAND-MADE JEWELRY specially designed. Kalo hand-wrought silverware for Xmas _ Gifts. Call or send for my interesting circular. Ann Doughty, 17 West 50th Street, N. Y. C.

YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS OR MONOGRAM embossed on 100 double sheets, 5% x 8, and 100 envelopes. Prepaid $2.00. Samples_ submitted. De Luxe Stationery Co., 505 Fifth Ave., N.Y. YOUR NAME AND ADDRESS (3 lines) printed in dark blue on high grade bond paper, 200 sheets—100 envelopes, $1 prepaid. Telegraph Print. Co., Harrisburg, Penna.

Tea Rooms

Colonia 379 5th Ave. Vanity Fair, 4 West 40th St. Vanity Fair, 3 East 38th St. Established Twenty Years N. Y. City

Travel—magie to some—commonplace to others. The shops listed here are out-of-the-ordinary; you will enjoy visiting them.

Wedding Stationery 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $13.50 or in- vitations hand-engraved. 2 sets of envelopes, 100 Calling Cards, $2.75. Write for samples V. Ott Engraving Ca, 1032 Chestnut St., Phila., Pa. ENGRAVED Wedding Invitations & Announcements. Kverett Waddey Co. has for a generation insured highest quality at reasonable prices, delivered. Book Wedding Etiquette Free. 5S. 11 St., Richmond, Va.

The Woman Jeweler SUPERIOR ENGRAVING CO., Wedding Invita- ticns and Announcements. Wholesale Prices. Guaranteed hand _ engraved. Highest Quality. Write for samples. 610 E. Main St., Richmond, Va.

ROSA OLGA TRITT—Specializes in fine gems, set- tings & repairs. Express your personality in your jewelry. We will design and execute it well. Heckscher Bldg., 730 5th Ave., at 57th St., N. Y WEDDING INVITATIONS & ANNOUNCEMENTS Engraved in the very latest styles. Write for samples and prices. Prompt Service. Virginia Stationery Co., Dept. V, Richmond, Va.

WHEN YOU PLAN YOUR SHOPPING Tour, consult this Guide. Cut out ads that interest you and pin them to your shopping list.

Spend the next sunny morning visiting these tiny treasure-box shops—or write to them for their booklets. They are

accustomed to filling orders by mail. _

~<a

CRUD OT. LRM

MAIDS' & NURSES’ UNIFORMS Send for Catalog A

19 WEST

Priscilla Personal Printed Stationery It gives your corres address will be ha (Printed with name and address) and address cee J written or printed. a this box of Priscil 110-A High Street ndence a charming individuality. Your name and somely printed in rich Blue on White Bond paper. 200 Single Sheets, 6x7 inches. 100 Envelopes to match (With same printing on flaps) Send: us $1 (If West of Denver, add toc Personal Printed Stationery. We ship promptly and guarantee satisfaction HERMAN GOLDBERGER In business since 1891

$] Pai stage) with your name e will send you postpaid, Order today.

Boston, Mass.

The Miracle of a Living Odeur! Choose, Mademoiselle! The caressing fragrance of living flowers. Or—the sombreness of perfumery? VIVANTE From Lournay it comes, this miracle of a living odeur. It is gayety and life; enticement and lure. The sub- tletyofa Pompadour. The charmof a La Valliere. Bn of a Josephine, in every precious rop C’est tres important So as to avoid the faux pas of discord in one’s scheme of fragrance—a creme of one scent, poudre of another, rouge of yet another!—L’odeur Vivante wafts its per- sonality throughout all articles de toilette by Lournay. ourna s NEW YORK 7 Ruede L’Isly 366 Fifth Avente You may obtain a small vial of Lournay Vivante by sending 15 cents to our American a ET i = - 4 4 Vy So 6. 44 ~

| ae

is Restored — Keep Young “O, she is a gray-haired woman” — how often have you heard this said of a woman young in years but made seem- ingly old by gray hair? Don’t let them say this of you when gray hair can be restored so safely, surely and easily. How? Send for my special patented free trial outfit and learn. It contains a free trial bottle of the scientific color restorer I perfected many years ago to restore the original color to my own prematurely gray hair. Just make the “single-lock”’ test as directed and results will tell their own story. Perfectly colorless My hair color restorer is clean and clear as water—abso- lutely dainty and odorless. Apply it by combing’ through the hair—no outside aid or expert skill required. . No one need know your secret. When you go to vour dealer for a full sized bottle of Mary T. Goldman's be sure you see my name on the package. If he hasn’t it in stock, or offers 'a substitute, write direct to me and I will gladly supply your needs. Mail Coupon today Fill it out carefully, using X to 5 indicate natural color of hair. If ; possible, enclose a lock in your letter. The special patented Free Trial outfit will be sént by return mail. Don’t delay— mail the coupon today.

No interference with shampooing—the restored color is per- manent as it is natural looking. No other treatment is required except occasional retouching as gray hair grows out at the roots.

Something new While the formula of my hair color restorer was perfected and proved perfect long ago, my laboratories have recently made another discovery. This consists of a wonderful preparatory powder which puts your hair in an ideal condition for restora- tion. This powder acts as an antiseptic and tonic, which greatly benefits both hair and scalp. It makes your hair soft, silky and fluffy. A free trial package is included with my special patented free trial outfit.

A real free offer All you have to do to secure this trial outfit is to fill out and mail the coupon. Send no money—lI even prepay postage. My offer is actually absolutely free.

ro —Please print your name and address=— —my

1 MARY T. GOLDMAN | ' 62L Goldman Bid@., St. Paul, Mina. i 9.4 _ Please send your patented Free Trial ; } J Oldman ’ Outfit. X shows color of hair. , Black. .. dark brown medium ! \ brown auburn (dark red) ~~ . . light brown light auburn (ight ! | Hair Color Restorer + | Name . Over 10,000,000 bottles sold eee _— : ,

Page 34

26 XN Waeeeebiet ll lanietlablel) 1 eee Pd il hl S VOGUE’S SCHOOL DIRECTORY VOGUE Wy reas NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY The Veltin School A Day School for Girls 160 and 162 West 74th St., N. Y. Easily reached from all parts of the city. A Fireproof, Sanitary School a Classes limited to twelve pupils. PRIMARY DEPARTM MENT GENERAL COURSE COLLEGE PREPARATORY Unusual advantages in French are offered in every class. The Gardner School FOR GIRLS 11 East 51st Street New York City A thorough school with delightful home life. Fire- proof building. College preparatory, academic, secretarial and_ elective courses. Music. Riding, swimming, tennis. 67th year. Miss Eltinge } Miss Masland | Principals The SCOVILLE SCHOOL 1006 Fifth Ave. N.Y.C. Opp. Art Museum & Central Park Boarding and Day School for Girls Complete academic, college prepara- tory and advanced studies THE FINCH SCHOOL A Boarding and Day School for Girls, emphasizing post-graduate work 61 East 77th Street, New York City MISS M. HOURIGAN’S SCHOOL Degrees from Royal Conservatories of Brussels and London Arts. Opportunity for special study. haperonage. Supervision. 6 East 76th Street New York City L’ECOLE FRANCAISE A French school where American girls, without crossing the ocean, can find a real Parisian home with a complete education. Classes conducted in French. Also courses in Music, Art, Dancing, etc. Mme. A. Rieffel, 12 East 95th St., N. Y. C. The SEMPLE SCHOOL for GIRLS Opposite Central Purk. Boarding and Day Pupils. College Preparatory. Post Graduate, Finishing courses. Languages, Art, Music and Dramatic Art. Social Life. Outdoor Recreation Mrs. T. Darrington Semple, Principal. 241-242 Central Park West, Box V, New York City CUDDER SCHOOL--MUSIC Voice, plano, organ, violin, cello, flute, harn etc. 16 master-artist instructors. Academic subjects, French, Spanish, etc. Dormitories. Ask for Catalog. WINFIELD ABELL, Dir., 244 W. 72d St., N. Y. CHANGE OF ADDRESS Miss Todhunter’s School for Girls will re- open on October 4th at 66 East 80th Street, New York. CO-EDUCATIONAL SOCIAL MOTIVE SCHOOL College Preparatory and Special Courses for girls. Kindergarten thru sixth grade for boys and girls. Class- es small—individual attention em- phasized. MISS BENTLEY, Prin. _ 526 West 114th St., New York City ST. ELIZABETH-OF-THE-ROSES A MOTHER SCHOOL Episcopal. Open all year. Children 3 to 12 years. One hour from New York. Usual studies. Outdoor sports. Camp, Bathing. ‘‘The Schoo] that Deve'ops Initiative.” Mrs. W. B. Stoddard, Directress, Box V, Noroten, Conn. Music, French, Cc Are Your Children Interested in School? “Oh, mother, must I go to school today? Mayn’t I stay home just today? I don’t like to go to school!” Ss eokwahd we all said that during our school days? And, when your little son or daughter says it, doesn’t your mind slip back to the days when you didn’t want to go to school? Probably you think, too, that because most children say it, few of them really mean it! But there are a great many children to whom school is an ordeal. An agonizing five or six hours each day. It is not necessary today to have a child unhappy in school, when there are so many schools which take particular pains with shy children, with children who do not like to study. In these schools, younger children are not teased or frightened. They are taught kindliness and consequently do not tease oth- ers themselves. They are all made happy by interest and en- couragement in their work and their play and their young ideals. Write us about schools for the youngest or the eldest. Or consult the lists of schools on these pages. The Condé Nast School Service 21 West Forty-fourth Street, New York City ——The Ely School for Girls— Greenwich, Conn. In the country. One hour from New York. Junior and Upper Schools. General, College Preparatory and Graduate Courses. Also one-year course, intensive college preparatory review. NEW YORK CITY & VICINITY THE SCUDDER SCHOOL West Seventy-second Street at Riverside Drive. New York. 7 buiidings; 200 students. Unusual prac- tical courses. (A) SELECT HIGH SCHOOL:— Preparatory and genera:. (B) POST GRADUATE: —1l. Domestic Science and Home Management; 1- year course with dipioma. 2. Secretarial; includes Spanish, French, Library Methods, ete. 3. Social Welfare and Community Service: training for com- nensated or volunteer work. Classroom instruction and actual field work. Gymnasium, swimming, etc. Dormitories like college _ Address Miss V. G. Scudder, New York City, N. Y., 244 West 72nd St. THE BROWNSON SCHOOL Private School for Catholic Girls. Resident and Day Pupils. French Bn language of the house. Mrs. Atwood Violett 22-24 East 9ist Street New York PRIVATE TUTOR Elementary and College Preparatory Branches— Modern and Classical oe oe Endorsed by leading schools of the Mrs. . Roberts West sath Street Schuyler 3822. New York City THE COMMONWEALTH SCHOOL Of Home Making and Community Subjects. Regular and part time courses Box V, 136 East 55th St., New York City HEWLETT SCHOOL White’s Lane, Cedarhurst, L. I., N. Y. Twenty miles from New York City. Day and boarding school for girls. Primary through college preparatory. Country life with outdoor sports. HIGHLAND MANOR, Tarrytown-on-Hudson, N.Y. Non-sectarian boarding school for girls on a beau- tiful estate. Liberal Arts, College Preparatory, Post Graduate, Secretar.al. Thorough music courses, all branches. Home-making. Journatism. Primary, In- termediate. Outdoor Life. Eugene H. Lehman, Tarry- town-on-Hudson, N.Y, Tel. Tarrytown 1505. Box V. STUDENTS’ RESIDENCES Mrs. Boswell’s Residence 344-346 West 84th St., at Riverside Drive, New York. A delightful home for girls attending any school, college or studio. Open all year. Registra- tions now for 1923-24. Elective chaperonage. Eighth Year. Telephone Schuyler 3106. Catalogue. TEASDALE RESIDENCE 326 West 80th St. Riverside Drive el. Schuyler 7724 For Girl Students and Young Women who come to New York to pursue courses of study and for a social season. French Tutoring Chaperonage—Booklet THE ACORN CLUB 5 West 100th Street, New York City A delightful home for girls studying in the city, and for young business women. Rates moderate. Telephone Riverside 0460. Miss Mary F. Fraser Miss M. Ethel Sliter New York School of Music and Arts 150 RIVERSIDE DRIVE All Branches of Music and the Arts taught DORMITORIES IN BUILDING THE WYLI E SCHOOL ; INDIVIDUAL INSTRUCTION Individual Executive Training in _ business, banking, investment and economics for adult men and women. Individual and class in- struction. Men and women instructors. Miss E. R. Wylie Tel. Vanderbilt 4934 83 Park Ave. New York City Attractive New Pork Bome FOR A FEW GIRL STUDENTS Write for information to Miss M. C. Belden, 391 West End Ave., New York City Telephone Endicott 0016. Special summer rates MISS saya STURENT RESIDENCE 57 East 73d Rhinelander 2581 For girl Sesinate wishing the “advantages of New York for special studies. Exceptional advantages to acquire French. Special tutoring—Personal Supervision Chaperon je.

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‘ ae 0 i | - ar +2 + cot wees rk ie

October 1

Mrs. Dow’s School for Girls College preparation. uate courses. Junior Department. Music Department: Nes.

BRIARCLIFF A PROGRESSIVE SCHOOL FOR THE MODERN GIRL General Academic, Home Efficiency and Post Grad- Music, Art, New York advantages. Mr. Ossip Gabrilowitsch, Artistic Adviser Florence M. 8. Gilbert, Director Art Department: Mr. George W. For Illustrated Circular, apply to MRS. EDITH COOPER HARTMAN, B.S., Principal, Briarcliff Manor, New York Bellows, N.A., Director Briarcliff Manor, N. Y.

NEW ENGLAND

Amid magnificent estates. 40 acres. Summer Session opens July 9th MR. and MRS. C. P. KENDALL BOARDING SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Junior High, College Preparation Secretarial, Domestic Science, Music and Art Courses Ocean frontage. Intensive training for college and school examinations Illustrated Booklet on Request One Special Intensive Year Park-like grounds. Boston 20 miles. Fall Term September 25th

Prides Crossing, Mass.

Tarrytown-on- MAR YMOUN Hudson, N. Y. Pre-Academic, Academic and College Courses lead- ing to Degrees. Two-year Finishing Course. Gym- nasium. Swimming Pool, Riding, Music, Art. Paris Branch—Chiateau de la_ Muette. For Catalogue apply to Reverend Mother.

OSSINING SCHOOL For Girls We offer with diploma, Academic, College Prepara- tory, Art, Music, Dramatics, Secretarial and Home Making Courses. Separate school for young girls. In beautiful Westchester, 30 miles from New York. 55th wee. Address Clara C. Fuller, Prin., 10V, Ossining-on-Hudson, New York Gis yoke Castle kt for Girls a. 731 Tarrytown-on-Hudson, New York Brantwood Hall Bronxville. N.Y. 28 minutes from Grand Central. College prepara- tory and general courses. 4 buildings, about 8 acres in Westchester, one of the most beautiful counties in America. Steady growth of 16 years, due chiefly to one patron’s introducing another.

Lawrence Park DONGAN HALL A Country School overlooking New York Harbor. College Preparation. Genera! Course. Art, Music. Emma Barber Turnbach, A.B., Principal Dongan Hills Staten Island, N. Y.

NEW YORK STATE

‘ ‘ > ‘ ia a College Preparatory, Vocational, Cultural. Lower School 10 to nag Mrs. Russell Houghton, Box V.

Suburban to New York City Fifty Minutes from Fifth Ave. Exclusively a boarding school for high school girls or graduates. Elective studies (regular or spe- cial) for every preference. Magnifi- cent buildings and grounds. B. Social culture; strong ath- 4@ letics. For catalogue with many views of this ex- quisite school, address: Director of Glen Eden, Stamford, Conn.

URSULINE ACADEMY A convent school, two hours from New York City. Elementary, Intermediate, College Preparatory. Courses in Music, Modern Languages, Secretary- with diploma. Horseback riding, all ath- Summer Camp Assawaghkemeck. Address Sisters, Box V, Middletown, N. Y. DREW SEMINARY The Carmel School for Girls on beautiful Lake Gleneida, 49 miles from New York. 600 ft. elevation. High scholastic standing. Small classes. General and special courses. Separate building for Junior School. Athletics. 58th year. Moderate charges. Catalog. Dr. Clarence P. McClelland, President, Box 508, Carmel, N. Y. Ursuline

SOUTHFIELD POINT HALL A school for girls. On Long Island Sound. _ Inter- mediate, General and College Preparatory Courses. Music, Gymnastics, Athletics and Sports. Address Jessie Callam Gray, B.A., Principal. 8 Davenport Drive, Stamford, Conn.

THE PARSONS SCHOOL An all-the-year home school for giris from four to fourteen years of age. Small group, personal care, thorough instruction. Ideally healthy location near New York. Send for further particulars to H. Grace Parsons Box V Essex Fells, New Jersey

KENT PLACE SUMMIT, N. J. 20 miles from N. Y- A Country School for Girls College Preparatory and Academic Courses Mrs. Sarah Woodman Paul Miss Anna S. Woodman \ Principals

Miss Beard’s School for Girls A country school, 13 miles from New York. College Preparatory, Advanced Courses. Junior High School. Music, Art, Domestic Science. Supervised ohysical work in gymnasium and field. Catalogue. Lucie C. Beard, Headmistress, Orange, N. J. DWIGH SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Crteey Ss pevetien Special Finishing Courses. Gymnasium, Tennis, Riding. w rie far es, Gye booklets. € "atalog on request iss . Creighton, Principal, Englewood, N. J. The Greer School Three Branches Country N. Y. City Foreign College Preparation General Education Send for illustrated catalog Huntington Long Island

FOREIGN SCHOOLS & TRAVEL MADAME REY’S HOME SCHOOL 28 Rue La Fontaine, Autevil—Paris, France Tel. Auteuil 4336 Unusual opportunities for American girls. During the war, Miles. Rey taught for five years in two of the leading Eastern Schools of the U. S. Ref. Mile. Rey, c/o Farmer’s Loan & Trust Co., 475 Fifth Ave., New York City. A SCHOOL FOR GIRLS in LAUSANNE, Switzerland Alliéres Comfortable house, splendid situation. Special advantages for French. Music, other modern lan- guages, dressmaking. Winter and summer sports. For illustrated prospectus apply to the Principal. CHATEAU DE GROSLAY (S.-O.) A high class finishing school for French and American girls; twenty minutes from Paris. RA

Les

Paris branch at 37 rue Ribera (XVle) Mme. Benasson-Marignac, Groslay (S.-O.), France.

e CANNES The Fontaine School GAaNNes Study and travel. Cultural, Finishing and College Preparatory courses. Trips. Sports. Resident and Day Students. Address Director, Miss Marie ae Fontaine, Care of Women’s City Club, 22 Park Ave., New York City. Or Box 78, Cannes, A.M., France.

NEW ENGLAND

Choate School 1600 Beacon Street Brookline, Mass. Home and Day School for Girls. Emphasis on College Prepara- tion. Also Art, Music, Domestic Science. Home life carefully regulated. Boston’s many advantages open to students, with chaperonage. Gymnasium, Bowling Alley, Fields for Sports. Horseback Riding. Augusta Choate, Vassar, A.B., A.M., Prin.

Teme nen nen in ie Bradford Academ y Offers two years of collegiate work for high school graduates. Also special opportu- nitiesin Art, Music, Expression and Household Arts. For information as to courses of study and entrance requirements, address REGISTRAR of the JUNIOR COLLEGE Box 162, Bradford Academy, Bradtord, Mass. A three-year college preparatory course is also given to a limited number of applicants

er TT Mine

oAUNUAVAUNDNUVOCOONUUUTAVUNOUGUODLUOCOHOA TUTTLE

For girls. colleges. Special secretarial training, nasium and _ sleeping porch. ing, trips afield. All sports. 18 Howard Street, A FAMOUS OLD NEW ENGLAND COUNTRY SCHOOL Twenty-five miles from Boston. intensive one-year course for college examinations. Ex- ceptional faculty of college-bred women. household arts, Extensive grounds. 50 pupils. MR. and MRS. GEORGE W. EMERSON, Principals

UR

Thorough preparation for all

Comprehensive courses, so vocal and instrumental music. Gym- Horseback riding, canoe-

West Bridgewater, Mass.

College Nh ig General, Secretarial, Courses. City Advantages. OD -<: home life. Symphony concerts. Horseback riding and all out-door sports. Winter trip to White Mountains. Write for new booklet MISS MIRIAM SEWALL CONVERSE, Principal. | Zone 7, Providence, Rhode Island. SAINT MARGARET’S SCHOOL

48th year. College preparatory. Secretarial and Domestic Science Courses. Gymnasium. Organized athletics. Outdoor life on 50-acre school farm. Miss Emily Gardner Munro, A.M., Principal. Waterbury, Conn. WYKEHAM RISE Washington, Connecticut Will re-open October 3, 1923 FANNY E. DAVIES, LL.A., Principal The Miss Farmer School of Cookery Home of the Boston Cooking School Cook Book. Cookery and Household technique for the home and for professional use. Six months and intensive short courses. Send for booklet. Miss Alice Bradley, Principal, 30 Huntington Avenue, Boston, Mass. WALNUT HILL SCHOOL 25 Highland Street, Natick, Mass.

A College Preparatory School for Girls, 17 miles from Boston. 46 Acres. oe Pond. Athletic Fields. 6 Buildings. Gymna Miss Conant, Miss Bigelow, Principals.

MISS HOWE AND MISS MAROT’S Country Boarding School for Girls College Preparation General Courses Athletics and Sports Mary Louise Marot, Thompson, Conn. HILLSIDE Say"s,,°o". 45 miles from New York. Prepara- tion for college entrance examinations. General Courses. Organized athletics. MargaretR.Brendlinger,A.B. (Vassar) Pri ; Vida Hunt Francis, A. B. (Smith) '

THE MISSES ALLEN SCHOOL College Preparatory, General, and Cultural Courses. Each girl’s personality observed and _ developed. Booklet on application. Telephone West Newton 131. Lucey Ellis Allen, Principal West Newton, Mass. LASELL SEMINARY

resourceful womanhood. Home Economics, Music, Art, College Preparatory and Secretarial Course. M. Winslow, ——

Guy 126 Woodland "Road, Auburndale, Mass.

Lincoln School! |

A school that develops well-trained, healthful and |

Miss Hall’s SCHOOL FOR GIRLS In the Berkshire Hills, on the Holmes Road to Lenox. Seventy acres. One thou- sand feet above the sea level. Miss MIRA H. HALL, Principal Pittsfield, Massachusetts

GRAY GABLES A Tutoring School for Girls Offering a one-year intensive course preparing for all college examinations. 98% of stmlents have successfully passed college entrance examinations in last seven years. ag mm Titcomb, frnaew Address. Box B, 45 Cedar S$! orcester, ROGERS HALL SCHOOL For Girls. Lowell, Mass. College Preparatory and General Courses. For Illustrated Catalog or Booklets address Miss Olive Sewall Parsons, Principal. Mass.

EMPHASIZING Mac Duffie ONE YEAR COLLEGE Sebe 0 sol TUTORING PREPARATION COURSE Consonant ph we field. Mass.

Mount Ida School for Girls Preparatory, finishing school. Exceptional oppor- tunities, with a delightful home life. Send for Year Book 2630 Svmmit Street, Newton, Mass.

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VOGUE NEW ENGLAND EASTERN ATLANTIC DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA SOUTHERN TENACRE A Country School for Girls 10 to 14. to Dana Hall, 14 miles Boston. All sports and athletics supervised ond or = the age of the pupil. Finest instruction, and _ influences. Miss Helen Temple Cooke, Dana Hall, Wellesley, Mass. HOUSE IN THE PINES Norton, Mass., 30 miles from Boston. A School for Girls. College preparatory and finish- ing courses. Music, Art, Housenoid Arts. Secre tarial courses. . Every attention, not only to habits of study. but_to each girl’s health and happiness Miss Gertrude E. Cornish, Principal. THE BURNHAM SCHOOL for GIRLS ae ,% mary A. Burnham in 1877. Opposite ith College Campus. Miss Heten E. Txuompson, Headmistress. NorTHAMPTON, Massachusetts. The Chamberlayne School Intensive preparation for college. General and special aes. Music, art, languages — native teachers. Out-of-door sports. 261 Clarendon St., Corner of Commonwealth Avenue Boston, Mass. EASTERN ATLANTIC pa | Miss Gildner’s Princeton School For Girls 12 and over PRINCETON, N. J. College preparatory, advanced college en- trance, general high school, two-year gradu- ate courses. Music, art, _feneins. expres- sion, dramatics, secretaryshi domestic sci- ence, athletics, sports, riding. 57-acre estate, beautiful” Colo- nial residence. Separate cot- a “Gildcrest,’’ “fet Junior Miss ‘Laura Soak eidner, A.M., James E. Ament, Ph.D., President A National Boarding School for Girls in the suburbs of. Wash- ington, D.- C. Two-year Junior College with voca- tional courses. College Preparatory. Address Registrar, Box 173, ws Forest Glen, Md. = aaNt Av ie = WARD-BELMONT Fon Girnis ann YounG WomtnN WARD-BELMONT combines high- est academic training and advan- tages of extensive grounds and equip- ment with that much-sought-for Southern culture and _ refinement. WARD-BELMONT offers a six-year course of study embracing two years of college. Its well-balanced curric- ulum meets the individual needs of students. For information, address WARD-BELMONT Belmont Heights, Box 10, Nashville, Tenn. College preparatory. 48th year. Gymnasium. Domestic Science Courses. ized athletics. Outdoor Waterbury, Conn. Saint Margaret’s School Secretarial and Organ- life on 50-acre school farm. Miss Emily Gardner Munro, A.M., Principal. Pennsylvania, Overbrook - a yo Suburb Miss Sayward’s Schoo hiladelphia. College preparatory and Secretarial ‘tune Music, Domestic Science, Physical training, outdoor sports, ——. riding, one. he es eo nd an ody. rite Dept. > iss Jane Sayward, Principal. A two-year academic course of practical and cultural studies for graduates of high schools or college ner schools. Especially designed fr girls who do not want to enter college. Students may specialize in Art, Music, Home-making, Dramatic Art and Secretarial training. Delightfully located-in a college town MR. and MRS. H. M. CRIST, Principals, Box 1509, Swarthmore, Pa. Also The Mary Lyon Sc and general courses; Seven Gables. for girls 6-14 Washington, D. C. Advanced Courses for High School graduates. Art, Expression. Educational tional Capital. For catalogue, School, 2109 $ Street, Washington, FAIRMONT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Regular and Special Courses. Music, advantages of Na- address Som COLONIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Beautiful location in National Capital. College Preparatory and Collegiate Courses. Music, Art, and Expression. social life. Athletics. High School, plete Domestic Science and Secretarial Departments. Well ordered home and Miss Jessie Truman, Assoc. Prin., 1537 Eighteenth St., N.W., Washington, D.C. Com- alecht near Philadelphia. Wildcliff has its own separate building with splendidly fur- nished dormitories. School and social life is wholly that of college girls. Country surroundings permit healthful outdoor activities including. horseback riding, ten- nis, hockey, canoeing. New gymnasium and swimming pool. Early registration advised. Catalog. Address hool, college preparatory GUNSTON HALL 1914 Fiorida Ave., Washington, A school for girls. Est. 1892. academic courses. lege work. Music, Ar Expression. R. Mason, Principal. Mrs. Beverley we Y and Two years graduate and col- OAKCREST WASHINGTON ADDRESS THE SECRETARY ASHINGTONG Eon apy Mug NS : _ NAR at i ih, : pt SOUTHERN ‘Pishopthorpe PAanor Fountain Hill Bethlehem, Pennsylvania Prepares girls for college or for life. Special two- year finishing course for High School graduates. Music, Art, Household Arts and Sciences. Arts and Crafts, Expression and Secretarial work. High, healthful location on the slope of the Lehigh Moun- tains. Near New York and Philadelphia. Bishop Ethelbert Talbot, Visitor. New gymnasium and tiled ewimming pool. Tennis, b: : ball, skating, riding,etc. Aesthetic dancing. Claude N. Wyant, Principal Box 243. Close personal touch entenary and instruction in collegiate onal classes. Six di- 4; ploma courses. A fine ay : titute. democratic spirit with sensible dress regula- tions me “ta school lite. In beautiful hill country near New York City. 50 acres. Gym- nasium. Swimming pool. 50th year. Catalog. ~~ el J. TREVORROW, President Box Hackettstown, N. J. BEECHWOOD Jenkintown, Pa. Suburb of Philadelphia. School for practical training of young women. Junior College Departments, Music, Art, Home Economics, Kindergarten, Normal Gymnastics, ete. Pipe organ, gymnasium. Address as above. OGONTZ SCHOOL Founded 1850. A school for girls occupying an estate on the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. oo booklet describing new building mailed on request. Rydal, Junior Dept. Miss Abby Sutherland, Principal, Pennsylvania, Montgomery County. HIGHLAND HALL': A school for Girls High in the Mountains College Preparatory, General, Post-Graduate Courses Autumn and Spring Camp part of School Life Ellen C. Keates, A.B., Principal, Hollidaysburg, Pa. Have you found the school that you feel will be best fitted to your daughter’s s? If not, please be assured of our willingness to assist you. Harcum School for Girls Thorough college -preparation; or spe- cial study. Music, Art. New building, large grounds. Athletics, re M . H. Harcum, B.L., ad of School; n 4 Head ee M. Willis, Pies Principal. , Bryn Mawr, P: 8 HOOL FO A LINDEN HALL °° een see tei eS In Far-famed Lancaster Co., “Garden Spot of the . §&.’’ College Preparatory, General Academic, Home Economics, Secretarial, Music, Art, Expres- sion. Courses for High School graduates. Separate Junior and Intermediate Depts. Gymnasium, Swim- ming Pool. Attractive, wholesome a life. Care- ful supervision. Catalog. _Addre ° Stengel, D.D., Box 120; Lititz, Pa. There Is Only ONE Best School The one that best fits your child’s individuality, needs and your purse. ‘a - bed —_ to a you. For information logs addres oe, School Service, The } NORTH AMERICAN, Philadelphia. The Birmingham School for Girls hm ate ea Pa. Thorough college preparation and — for girls not going to college. Gymnasium, swimming pool, sleeping porch. Catalogue. P. S. MOULTON A.B., Headmaster; A. R. GRIER, President, Box 125, Birmingham, Pa. The Darlington Seminary, Inc. A school for girls, 22 miles from Phila. College preparatory, Secretarial, Music, Art, Expression, Domestic Science, Physical Training. All outdoor sports. Catalogue. Christine F. Bye, Pres. Box 605. West Chester, Pennsylvania. PENN HALL. School for Girls. College Prepara- tory Modern Language and Special Courses. Certificate privileges. May of each year spent at Work continued without interrup- $800. Catalogue and views. Address Magill, A.M., Prin., Box V, Chambers- tion. Frank §. burg, Pa. MARYLAND COLLEGE For Women. Ten miles from Baltimore. Four- year courses leading to all degrees. Two-year cer- tificate course. Personal supervision of strong faculty. Modern fireproof buildings. Swimming pool. Catalog. Box 10V, Lutherville, Maryland THE GIRLS’ LATIN SCHOOL 34th year. College Preparatory and Academic. Thorough preparation for colleges. Faculty of college-trained Christian women. Selected dents. Cultural advantages due to location. =a beautiful home. Catalog. Miss Wil- fo ® eadmistress. Maryland, Baltimore. 123i St. Paul Street. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA CHEVY CHASE SCHOOL A school for the girl of today and tomorrow. Courses: Preparatory, two-year advan for high school graduates; special. Unrivalled location at the na- tional capital. For catalog, address Chevy Chase School, ox V, Frederick Ernest Farrington, Ph.D., Headmaster. Washington. D. C. KING - SMITH STUDIO - SCHOOL For young women. stu- Ex- For Young Women ROANOKE, VA. VIRGINIA COLLEGE One of the leading schools in the South. Modern buildings. Extensive campus. Located in the Valley of Virginia, famed for health and beauty of scenery. Elective, Prepara- tery and College Courses. Music, Art, Expression, Home i FASSIFERN For Girls A Home School in the mountains. Altitude 2,200 ft. College preparatory. Separate department for little girls. Individual attention. Electives, Music, Art, Expression. Physical training, horseback rid- ing. Rates sone. For catalog address Miss Kate C. Shipp, Hendersonville, N. C. WARRENTON COUNTRY SCHOOL For Young Girls College preparatory and special courses. French, the language of the house. The school is planned to teach girls how to study, to bring them nearer nature, and to inculcate habits of order and economy. Mile. Lea M. Bouligny, Box 18, Warrenton, Va. SULLINS COLLEGE Bristol, Virginia For Girls. High School and Junior College Courses. Music, Expression, Domestic Science, etc. vew buildings; every room connecting bath. Swimming Pool, Horse-back riding. Mountain climate. W. E. Martin, Ph.D., Pres., Box H. GULF-PARK By-the-Sea A Junior college for young women. National patronage. Two ‘years college, four years high school. All new’ buildings. Land and water sports, year ‘round. Vachel Lindsay, celebrated poet, teaches Modern Poétry, 1923-24. Address Gulf Park College, Box 8S, Gulfport, Miss. SUMMER CAMPS THE TEELA—WOOKET CAMPS Senior and Junior Camys for Girls under 20. Rox- bury, Vermont. Famous for fine saddle horses, free riding and thorough instruction in horsemanship. 300 acre ‘‘Wonderland’”’ in heart of Green Moun- tains. Booklet. Mr. and Mrs. Cc. A. Roys, 10 Bowdoin St., Cambridge 38, Mass. CENTRAL STATES—GIRLS’ e Ss h 1 The Kenwood Loring §choo! A boarding and day school in the finest residence section = Chicago. College preparatory and general courses. Write for catalog Stella G. "Loring & Lois C. Morstrom, Principals. 4600 Ellis Ave., Chicago *Phone Oakland 0737 LINDENWOOD COLLEGE A Standard College for Young Women with Classical, Vocational, Music, Art and Expression Departments. 114 acres of campus for outdoor sports, Golf, Hockey, Tennis. 50 minutes from St, Louis. Golem upon application. . States. Mrs. Secretarial Course, Athletics. Students from 32 Address Mattie P. Harris, President, Box V, Roanoke, Va. Gertrude Harris Boatwright, Vice-Pres. Under northern management, northern Tourist pupils use home _ text-books. classes, ocean bathing throughout winter. ing and day school departments. 1053 Brickell Avenue Miami. Miss Harris’ Florida School faculty. Outdoor Board- October to June. Florida PACIFIC COAST The Santa Barbara Girls’ Resident and Day Pupils. Eleven acres. Life and Sports. Sleeping-porches. rooms. Riding. Swimming the year . Chamberlain, A.M., Princip Marian P. 0. Box 548-V, Santa Barbara, Cal. School Country Open air school round. Basis of work, clear thinking. College properatery. a . L. ROEMER, Tresident, Box 423, St. Charles, Mo. FERRY H ALL College preparatory, gen- eral high school and ad- vanced courses. Also special instruction in music, expression and domestic arts and sciences. Located in a well-known residence suburb on the shore of Lake Michigan, twenty-eight miles from Chicago. For catalog address Tremain, Prin., Miss Eloise R. Box 326, Lake Forest, III. PACIFIC COAST THE ANNA HEAD SCHOOL "sercirt.e"Gine’ School for Girls. High School graduates admitted without examination to all colleges using accrediting system. Students prepared for college board examinations. Post graduate, primary and intermediate departments. Cheerful, homelike school with outdoor life year round Address Miss Mary E. Wilson, Prin. Box Berkeley, Calif. The Bishop’s School For Girls. Upon the Scrippe Foundation. Inter- mediate, General and College Preparatory. courses. Music. Art. Outdoor life. Athletic sports. 16 miles from San Diego. Catalog. Caroline Seely Cummins, A.M., Vassar, Headmistress. Box 12, La Jolla, Cal. Westlake School for Girls College -preparatory, advanced courses, Music, Art, Expression and Domestic Science. Separate depart- ment for younger girls. Spacious grounds permit all sports. Swimming pool. Tennis courts. Catalog. Box U, 333 S. Westmoreland Ave., Los Angeles, Cal. COLLEGE PREPARATION OUTDOOR ATHLETICS tion according MR. & MRS. AUGUST KING. SMITH, Directors L} New Hampshire Ave., Washington, D. C. The Katharine Branson School, Inc. ROSS, MARIN COUNTY, CALIFORNIA A Country School for Girls Heads: { KATHARINE BRANSON, A.B., Bryn Mawr t Laura Branson, A.B., Bryn Mawr

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29 October 1 NEW YORK EASTERN ATLANTIC CENTRAL STATES SOUTHERN CASCADILLA TOME SCHOOL FOR BOYS + T College Preparatory School for Boys. The most beautiful and best equipped school in M I LI TA RY S UY VESAN Individual attention. Smail classes. Athletics America. College Board Standards. Single Rooms. , Well-known school crew. Enrollment 100. Write | Individual Advisers. All Athletics, Forty-five U LVE ? A . A D E M : SCHOOL FOR BOY. for catalogs. boys entered college last fall. Warrenton, Virginia The Cascadilla Schools, Box 124, Ithaca, N. Y. Murray Peabody Brush, Ph.D., Director, For catalog address The | Limited to 50. Preparation for all colleges. Catalog Rate $1100. Port Deposit,’ Md. Inquiry Bureau, Culver, Ind.| EDWIN B. KING, M.A. (Yale), Headmaster Che Raymond Riordon Dehool College preparatory, also Business Course. Work and play carefully directed for the advancement of the individual boy. Catalog. Address RAYMOND RIORDON, Highland, N. Y. Pr “. all-around edu- of manly _ boys. Sinletie sports. 60-acre campus. Prepares for col- lege and business life. Moderate rates. Lower School for boys from 10 to 14. Roger W. Swetland, Headmaster, Box 10V, Hightstown, N. J. New York, Tarrytown-on-Huds Irving School for Boys oe tiful, historic ‘‘Irving’’ country. 87th year. 31 years under present Headmaster. Extensive grounds, Modern and complete equipment. Prepares for all colleges and — schools. Athletic field. Swim- wing Pool. Gymnasium Rev. Furman, L.H.D., Box 288. St. Johns School OSSINING-ON-HUDSON,N Prepares Boys for College and Business. classes. Military aaene. Athletics. school for boys under William Addison haneey, A.M., Prin. 23 ‘miles from New Headmaster, Small Separate MANLIUS—St. John’s School Military. College preparatory. Graduates now at- tending 51 colleges. Business course. Thorough equipment. Athletics. Junior School for boys 10 to 14. ‘alt ae under present management, Cata- log. We Win Verbeek, Pres., Box 1310, Manlius, N.Y. THE STONE SCHOOL On Storm King Mountain, 50 Miles from New York Preparation for College or Business Life. Small classes. Separate Lower School for Boys 9 te 12. ST. LUKE’S SCHOOL Wayne (Main Line P.R.R.), Pa. Healthful location, homelike buildings. Mental and physical instruction, high moral influence makes unusual appeal to parents and boys. Junior school for younger boys. Prepares for college or business. Charles Henry Strout, A.M., Headmaster. The young boys’ school—7 to 15. Modified military training and disci- Dline, just enough to inculcate habits of obedience FREEHOLD ix: SCHOOL orderliness, aieas and self-reliance. The school with the personal touch. 42 miles from New York, 66 miles from Philadelphia. For catalog address Maj. Chas, M. Duncan, Box 109, Freebold,N.J. MILITARY BORDENTOWN MibTARY Thorough preparation for college or business. Efficient faculty, small classes, individual attention. Boys taught a te study. 38th year. Catalog. Colonel T. Landon, Principal and Commandant, Drawer C- 3: Bordentown-on-the-Delaware, N. J. PINE LODGE LAKE FOREST Non-Military College es gd cme aa Hg Boys. Near Chicago. All Athletics. Endowed. log: J. W. Richards, Box 150, Lake Forest. “il. NORTHWESTERN MILITARY AND NAVAL ACADEMY 70 mi. from Chicago. An endowed College Preparatory School and Junior College. Its distinctive advan- tages and methods interest discriminating parents. Col, R. P. Davidson, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wise. THE SNYDER SCHOOL Fall and Spring in Mountains—Winter, January to March, Florida. College Preparatory and General Courses. Separate Group for young boys. rence Elmer Snyder, A Cla — = 935 Fine Arts Building, Chicago, Ill. PACIFIC COAST URBAN MILITARY ACADEMY California’s most beautiful school, highest scholarship, thorough character training, completely equipped playgrounds, swimming pool, horsemanship, golf, band, radio, all athletics. In session all year. Sumnier camp, enroll any time Address the Dean, Hancock Park, Los Angeles, Cal. STAUNTON MILITARY ACADEMY Private academy preparing for fae gy Govern- ment Swimming pool, ali Ce ee ae plant. Charges, $650. Thos. H sell, B.S., Pres., Box. V (Kable Station), Staunton, Va. NEW ENGLAND WESTMINSTER SCHOOL Simsbury, Conn. RAYMOND R. McORMOND, Headmaster THE GRAIL SCHOOL Fairfield, Conn. Students are taught how to study and concentrate. Individual instruction in all elementary and high school subjects preparatory to college. Charles C. Saunders, Principai Allen- Chalmers A Country School for Boys Military Regularity. Upper and Lower Schools. Thomas Chalmers, West Newton, Mass. CARMEL HALL A boarding and day school for boys. Small classes. Careful supervision. Athletics. General education. College preparation, Special tutoring. Moderate rates. w Headmaster eee tthe tease Cornwall-on-H udson + peace New York Two places are available in a NEW ENGLAND 695 Park Avenue, Bridgeport, Conn. group of six young boys (10-14) ST. PAUL’S ..¢°ae""™, ,. preparing for the larger schools. y, ’ 8' Episcopal boarding school (boys). _ ‘Coll.’ Prep. F. L. Olmsted, Pine Lodge, Lake- WORCESTER. ACAD FOR BOYS OF ABILITY mar Schook “dutior Dept. (grades 8 to 8). ‘Fire-|| wood, N. J. Telephone 237-M WITH COLLEGE VISION proce, All athletics. Resident chaplain & nurse. = ay P ; “WORCESTER., MASSACHUSETTS Single rooms, $1200. L.1.R.R. 40 min. from N.Y. City SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS The NEW YORK SCHOOL of’ INTERIOR DECORATION 101 PARK AVE -‘NEW YORK . Practical Training y all Fall term starts October 3rd A four months’ course in peri styles, color harmony, selection and use of furniture, fabrics, etc. Courses in interior decorative design and craftsmanship. Send for Catalogue 43 WE TEACH COMMERCIAL ART ‘‘Use Your Spare Time for Pleasure or Profit’’ Meyer Both Company, the largest com- mercial art organization in the field, offers you a different and practical train- ing. If you like to draw, develop your talent. Study this practical course— taught by this widely known institution, with twenty-two years success—which each year produces and sells to adver- tisers in the United States and Canada over ten thousand commercial drawings. Who else could give you so wide an experi- ence? Commercial art is a business neces- sity—a highly paid, intensely interesting pro- fession, equally open to men and women. Home study instruction. Get facts before res enrollin wS school. eee e fore our illus- rat UR OPPORTUNITY’’— oe one-half the rae of aadiea--taae cents in stamps. Meyer Both Company Dept. of Art Instruction Michigan Ave., at 20th St., Dept. 32 CHICAGO, ILL, Winter Term — 48th Year of The Art Students’ League Life Drawing and Painting, Portrait, Still Life, Illustration and Composition, Antique, Modeling (Portrait and Figure) wes by Homer Boss ae & George B. Bridgman bam 3. Guy Pene = Bois Kenneth /.. amilier rank V. Mon Kimon Nicolaides Anne Goidthwaite H. E. Sehnakenberg Frederic W. Goudy William von Schlegel! Robert Henri John Sloan Richard F. Lahey Duncan Smith Leo Lentilli Allen Tucker Hayley Lever orbes Watson George E. Wolfe New Classes in Wood Block and Color Printing, Charles B. Falls; Mural and Dramatic Composition, J. Monroe Hewlett; Mediums and Figure Drawing, Edward Penfield; Etching and Lithography, Joseph Pennell. For catalog, address The ART STUDENTS’ LEAGUE of N. Y. Box V 215 West 57th St., New York SCHOOL OF DESIGN AND LIBERAL ARTS 212 West 59th St.,N. ¥.C: Phone Circle 1850 DESIGN COSTUME : LIFE INTERIOR DECORATION Four ana Eight Months: Intensive and Practical Course BOSTON SCHOOL of INTERIOR DECORATION Correspondence Courses Course A—Professional Training Course. Course B—Domestic Course—How to Plan Your Own House Enrollment limited—Write for Prospectus Address P. O. 143, Boston (Corley Station), Mass. mernoren ites i & SCHOOL 58 W. h Street, New York MODERN COLOR For Portrait, Landscape, Poster, Stage Lighting, Costume Design, Interior Decoration, Fabric Designing Children’s Saturday Classes NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Felix Mahony, Pres. Interior Decoration: Costume, Commercial Poster & Textile Design. Illustration and Life, ete. Catalog. Sonnecticut Ave. and M. St., Washington, D. C. Master Institute of United Arts MUSIC—PAINTING—SCULPTURE ARCHITECTURE—OPERA_ CLASS BALLET — DRAMA — LECTURES “To open the door to Beauty” Comprehensive ane in every branch of art are oa by eminent taculty. Privilege of attending general lectures on all arts extended to enrolled stu- dents. Special department for children. After Oct. 1, 1923, in New Home, 310 RIVERSIDE DRIVE Send for Catalogue V. 312 West 54th St., New York City Traphagen Co-operative School of Fashion The first and only art school in America which bridges. the gulf between the ama- teur and the profes- | sional. In it the school and _ business are combined, All phases from ele- mentary to complete mastery of costume designing and_illus- trating are taught in shortest time compat- ible with thoroughness. Write for Announcement,V ETHEL TRAPHAGEN, Bryant Park Studio, 80 W. 40th St., New YorkCtty pon age OF FINE ARTS AND CRAFTS, Inc. Fine Arts department incorporates the liberal methods of teaching of the French studio. Miss KATHERINE B. CHILD, Director Room 406, 349 Newbury Street, Boston, Mass. N.Y. SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. Wm. Odom, Director in Paris New York Paris London Interior Architecture and Decoration; Costume Design and Illustration; Stage Design; ee Advertising ; Decorative Design ; vy Training Courses; Saturday and Children’s Classes. Register now Circulars Address: Sec., 2239 Broadway, New York THE CAMBRIDGE SCHOOL DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE and LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS N. Y. Poerceness. SCHOOL OF INTERIOR ECORATION i. me. . Winter, director Actual Practical Training, Studios, Laboratories and Visitations Quarterly Classes Send for booklet 20 West 46th Street, N. Y. C., West of Fifth Ave. Workshops, THE SEELEY SCHOOL Interior Decoration Regular Fall term beginning September 20th. A daily course lasting 4 months; morning or evening session 748 Madison Ave.. N.Y. C. Rhinelander 8165 School of Horticulture for Women Box V, Ambler, Penna. Gardening, Fruit Growing, Bees, Poultry. Two-Year Diploma Course Spring and Summer Short Courses. LOWTHORPE A School of Landscape Architecture for Women. Amy L. Cogswell, Principal, Groton, Mass. The Iridor School prorétionsi Direction Dorit x Weigert CANDY MAKING (Instructor Y. W. C. A.) French, Spanish and eneee-* — Carrespond- German spoken Cou Booklet on Request 7 "West 49th. Street, New York City RUSSELL SAGE COLLEGE Founded by Mrs. Russell Sage in connection with Emma Willard School. A School of Practical Arts. Secretarial Work and Household Economics. B.A. and B.S. Degrees. Address Secretary. Russell Sage College, Troy, N. Y. SHORT-STORY WRITING A practical forty-lesson course in the writing and marketing of the Short-Story taught by Dr. J. Berg Esenwein, Editor of The Writer’s Monthly. 150 page catalog free. Please address: The = | Correspondence School Dr. Esenwein Dept. ! Springfield, Mass. I te you do not find the schooi which you want in these columns, ask us to help you. Or if you have commenced to investi- gate some school and want further informa- tion, ask us for that too. Write us at 21 W. 44th St., New York. THE CONDE NAST SCHOOL SERVICE

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VOGUE SPECIAL SCHOOLS SALAM A The Ruth St. Denis and Ted Shawn School of the Dance eT TOU ULI DENISHAWN New permanent studio in New York City Winter course begins October twenty-second Short courses always open. Branch studios in impor- tant cities throughout the country. California DENISHAWN Preparatory professional courses open October twenty-second. NUTTALL ULLAL Write for booklets of information GERTRUDE C. MOORE = National Director 2 327 West 28th Street 2 New York City EAM manage a_ house. How to run a You aren’t domestic? talent? now. RTA- POVITC The , of thet of Deneing? ENDORSED BY Mae. ANNA PAVLOWA 1058 Broadway, Corner 5ist Street New York City CHALIF Russian School of DANCING Art in DANCING “I admire your en- ergy and your work” ANNA PAVLOWA School reopens Sept. 1st og on request [15 -165 West 57th Street, New York Portia Mansfield School of Classic Dancing and its Related Arts Berkeley, California Normal and Professional Depts. E Summer session, Perry Mansfield Camp, Steamboat Springs, Colo Send for booklet ALEXIS KOSLOFF of imperial Russian Ballet and Metropolitan Opera House, N. Y. 24 West 57th Street, New York Telephone Circle 6208 Class aid private papas: in all forms of dancin: Children’s classes. Russian Ballet Technique Book with suites of dances, with de- scriptions and music, $15.00 New ame, h desert 21 West 44th Street Can You Make GOOD CANDY? The Condé Nast School Service knows a school that will teach you how to make candy with the true professional touch. How to keep a budget. servant question, from uniforms to the nicest points of service. home as scientifically as a man runs his business. How, even, to manage a tea-room and make a profit on it. You have, A passion for dancing? A genuine ability in any of the fine arts? Would you like to study diction, learn to move gracefully, add to your social charm? Would you, on the other hand, prefer to take life as seriously as your brother and enter business or a profession? Don’t put it off. You'll never be any younger. to cultivate whatever ability you possess in one of the vocationel schools which The Condé Nast School Service can recommend to you—or which you can find advertising in these very school pages. Look through these pages Or write us for more detailed information THE CONDE NAST SCHOOL SERVICE How to How to handle the perhaps, a voice? Dramatic A gift for costume designing? Begin this winter New York City SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS NED WAYBURN Producer of the “‘ZIEGFELD FOLLIES” Offers practical instruction In Every Type of Dancing NED WAYBURN Studios of Stage Dancing, Inc. 1841 Broadway, N.W. Corner 6oth Street, ae York City © STAGE DANCING , ETM CLCLEELLLL ‘p Formerly Dancing Master for Ziegfeld Follies, John Cort, Chas. Dillingham, Lee & J. J. Shubert, Geo. M. Cohan, others. Teacher of Marilynn Miller, Fairbanks Twins, Florence Waiton and hun- dreds of others. Write or Call 900 TthAv.,N.Y.City. Tel.Circse8290 VESTOFF SEROVA Russian School of DANCING Ballet, Classic—Interpretative—National and Ballroom—Dancing. Baby Work atin ~~ ig er Courses rite for Booklet V 47 West 72nd 3. N.Y.C. Tel. Endicott 6212 ROSETTA O’NEILL Rhythinic Balloon © DANCING **To Miss O’Neill I owe my success.”’ —Mrs. Vernon Castle 746 Madison Ave., N. Y. Phone Rhinelander 6770. ADELAIDE & HUGHES Studio of Dance Classes for all Classic Dancing. Stage Dances cre- ated. Amateur performances staged. Children’s Satur- and mus ror ‘sale at the studio. day classes,all ages. Physical culture classes. Catalog. 45 West 57th St. Plaza 7635 NAUMOVA SCHOOL OF DANCING Specializes in teaching clubs and schools. Studio classes by special arrangement. Telephone Circle 0743. Gertrude L. James Mile. Naumova of the Castle School of the Pavlowa Ballet 54 West 50th St., New York BATHSHEBA ASKOWITH Russian Actress, Director Originator of the THREE GRACES. A Method for the development of Personality, Beauty, Poise and Charm of Conversation. Studios, 162 West 48th Street, New York City. Telephone Bryant 1469 DRAMATIC ART THEODORA URSULA IRVINE. Dramatic Art. General training for the stage. Teacher of Alice Brady. Endorsed by Edith Wynne. Matthison. Studio 31 Riverside Drive, New York. EDITH COBURN NOYES SCHOOL Dramatic Training—Character Development. Voice, Diction, Payeholony, Design, French. Write for complete list of courses Edith Coburn Noyes, Principal Symphony Chambers, Boston. Senco. IHEALR ARTS—43 WEST 72nd ST., NEW YORK Drama Opera Speech Photo Play Stage Dancing Singing Learn to act by acting, 27th Year. Concentration courses include actual stage ex- perience and appearances at Alviene Art Theatre, developing poise, personality and good address. graduating artists. 20 instructors. For catalog write Sec’y, Room 22. Mention study desired. ALVIEN LITA BARNETT Individual Training STAGE PLATFORM Special Emphasis on Speaking voice and Diction Studio, 152 West 57th Street, New York Telephone Circle 1350 SPECIAL SCHOOLS SCHOOL“ tte THEATRE Threshold Playhouse DIRECTORS Frank CRAVEN Crare TrEE Major ALTER HAMPDEN’ ELSIE FERGUSON GerorGE ARLISS ErRNEstT TRUEX Students play six nights and two mati- nees weekly for six months before gradua- tion — Professional Directors Only — Scenic Design—Production—Dancing— Fencing — Pantomime — Voice Develop- ment — Shakespearean Reading, etc.— Special evening classes for students employed during the day. Fall Term opens October 1st. Registration Limited. Write for Catalog to the Director. CLARE TREE MAJOR 571 Lexington Avenue, New York City SSESSESSEEESEEESEEESSLESS AMERICAN ACADEMY OF DRAMATIC ARTS Since 1884 the Standard Institution of Dramatic and = Training and Development of Personality for any calling in life. Fall Term Begins Oct. 26 Extension Courses in Cooperation with COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY Trustees: Franklin H. Sargent, President Daniel Frohman John Drew Augustus Thomas Benj. F. Roeder Illustrated Catalog of all Courses from Room 251-J CARNEGIE HALL, New York BEPTTIFSSSSITSSSTITTFTTN MIssTOWNSENDS STUDIO SPEAKING VOICE DICTION STAGE 1 PLATFORM > a > GRASTIERCY \ ¢ li | 3 [33] s e : : a * F ; [33) 3) e ’ E-) [33) ) Fy - " {3%} RS) * SECRETARIAL SCHOOL a Fa Practical courses for girls and 7 women. } | School occupies Studios of the | Tilden Building. Attractive roof (33) = for exclusive use of al mm sCépupils. a re Bureau of Placement of recog- o i) nized _reputation. Graduates yy) " sought for responsible positions. * ral Illustrated Booklet a [3s] 105 West 40th Street 3) 7 New York City | bs le) el OE OE Ed Ge) Bea Ey iy ed azn THE ERSKINE SCHOOL Offers training in Arts, Vocations, Business to College and High School Graduates. MISS E. E. McCLINTOCK 129 Beacon St., Boston REGISTER NOW FOR SECRETARIAL COURSE ESTABLISHED 50 YEARS BALLARD SCHOOL gets ross 845: FRENCH Learn at home by the New Conversational Method evolved in Europe and introduced in America by the I.C.S. School of Languages. Endorsed by French Embassy. Write to-day for descriptive literatare International Correspondence Schools Box 4437, Scranton, Penna. No Kno your edge of ] Tl D. of 2-ye Fall Cats

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October 1

SPECIAL SCHOOLS SPECIAL SCHOOLS

Costume Design Millinery Design Fashion I lustration Fall registration now going on. Oldest, largest, most famous school. More graduates in high- salaried positions than all other schools combined. Individual in- struction. Limited enrollment— so call or write for information early. Also home-study courses. Fashion Academy, Inc. Studio 21 Off Fifth Ave. 4 East 53rd Street, New York City 1432 N. Broad Street, Philadelphia, Pa:

Have a shop of your own Wonderful new method! You can now learn, right at home in > » b spare time, to make ( smart, distinctive clothes for just the cost of materials — prepare for a position or have a shop of your own cad earn $25 to $40 —~. Write to-day or booklet — ‘ ‘Making Been Clothes.’ WOMAN’S INSTITUTE of Domestic Arts & Sciences Dept. 30-X Scranton, Penna. ~~ ~~ www rrr Trl

Distinctive Millinery is the Mark of a Well Dressed Woman Learn to create your own exclusive styles in a thoroughly practical and _ well-equipped school, under the personal direction of an expert. Completion of course permits fulfilling respon- sible, lucrative positions. Day and Evening Classes. Booklet upon request. ADELAIDE MILLER STUDIO 20 WEST FORTY-NINTH STREET NEW YORK CITY (Just off Fifth Avenue) DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- sale, retail or home use Day and evening classes. Call or write for particulars. McDowell Dress- making and Millinery School. Established 1876. No Branches. 58 West 40th Street, N. Y. tHE GARLAND SCHOOL of HOMEMAKING nae Ne training for efficient home making. 8. Margaret J. Stannard, Director 2 Chestnut Street, Boston, _Mass.

CWhere your Talent becomes — profitable and eh al G DRAWING, DESIGN, CARTOONIN PAINTING {COMMERCIAL ART, ILLUSTRATION, INTERIO DECORATION / COSTU Mee ON DRAW- , HANDICRAFTS, ETC. An interested response to all inquiries CHICAGO ACADEMY or FINE ARTS 8) East “MADISON 'SLCHIGAGO, it STUDIOS OPEN THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. ADVANCE ENROLLMENT NECESSARY ~

Fall Classes now Forming P. CLEMENT-BROWN Courses in Costume Design Are recognized by the exclusive Fifth Avenue shops as the standard of highest proficiency. Amateurs and professtonals should write for free catalog. BROWN" Ss SALON: STUDIOS, 620 Fifth Ave.. N.Y; ‘aris ork San Francisco

Intensive Course in Professional DRESS DESIGNING MUSEUM OF a ART

French Institute in the s. 599 Fifth Ave. (at 48th St. ag New York THE BANCROFT SCHOOL For children whose mental development has not progressed normally A cultured home for the sons and daughters of rentiemen, in which they may receive training adapted to meet their individual needs, compe- tent medical and hygienic care, protection from harmful contacts, desirable companionship and real affection. Haddonfield, N. J. Address Box 145 E. A. Farrington, M.D. Jenzia Coulson Cooley 1880 Seguin School 1923 For Backward and Mentally Deficient Children Limited to 25 pupils, girls, young women and boys under 12. No epileptics nor insane. Ten teachers, five governesses. Large grounds adjoining 50-acre park. Tuition and board from Sept. to June, $1800. Sum- mer school in mountains June to Sept., $400. Mrs. E. M. Seguin, Principal, Orange, N. J.

The Restoration School Normal home life and expert, individual sontins provided for not more than ten children, a healthful and attractive country place. Address Professor Lightner Witmer Devon, P

RHYTHMIC HEALTH TRAINING Correspondence Course “RHYTHM IS LIFE” Know how to control your mind and emotions and to make your body a more perfect instrument for your work. Rhythmic Training develops this knowl- ose by giving you Health, Nerve Strength, Free- dom and a better understanding of the Arts and of Life. Highest endorsement. GALE anv HEALTH-TRAINING NSTITUTE, Inc., 1816 waneie Rd., Washington, D. C. The Sargent Schoo Established 1881 Booklet on request A. SARGENT L. W. SARGENT Cambridge 38, Mass. The Marjorie Webster School of Expression and Physical Education 2-year Normal course, 1-year Professional course. Fall term. Day and Night School. Dormitory. Catalog. 1415-V Massachusetts Ave., N. W., Washington, D. C. se se Trained Women Nation-wide demand for trained women; all departments, hotels, clubs, apartment houses; wn- ; crowded field; fine living, quick My ‘fh advancement. ‘Our methods en- } dorsed by leading Beteie every- Write for FREE p BOOK,

for Physical Education

! whe re.

You can be quickly cured, if you STAMMER Send 10 cents for 288-page book on Stammering and Stuttering, “Its Cause and Cure.’’ It tells how I cured myself after stammering 20 years. N. Bogue, 9105 Bogue Bidg., 1147 N. Ill. St. Indianapolis.

MISS WOODS SCHOOL For Exceptional Children Individual training to develop children not pro- gressing satisfactorily. 24 miles from Phila. Booklet. . —_— WOODS HARE, Principal 0x Langhorne, Pa. FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE SCHOOL BACKWARD CHILDREN 42 miles from New York—Katonah, N. Y. Summer Sehool and Camp during Summer. Rudolph 8S. Fried, Principal. THE FREER SCHOOL For girls of retarded development. Limited enrollment permits intimate care. 9 miles from Boston. Miss Cora E. Morse, Principal, 31 Park Circle, Arlington Heights, Mass, A Southern School * air" A home school for a limited number of children. Beauti- fuloldsouthern mansion. Largelawns. Sleeping porch. All modern improvements. Ideal climate. Moderate rates. Bristol-Nelson School, Murfreesboro, Tenn. Hawley School of Development For Nervous and Retarded Children. Specializes

in Eurythmics and Speech Correction. English and Art Classes. Limited number. L. Hawley Mario! 53 Strawberry Hill Stamford, Conn. DEVEREUX SCHOOLS Three distinct schools to meet special needs of children who require individual instruction. Box V, Devereux Schools, Berwyn, Pa. BACKWARD CHILDREN Scientifically trained—young children taught to talk—An exclusive school for a few children— Private tutoring New York City and Philadelphia— Physicians’ endorsement—Miss Stev , Consult- ing specialist, 312 Morton Ave., dley Park,

Pa. Phone 121. 31

DOORS THAT LURE YOU STAND OPEN IN THE House Beautiful

‘“‘Now look at that vain little door,” scolded Nancy as we passed the Frisbee house the other day. “Can’t you just tell it’s all set up over the doings of painters and paper-hangers and the general new becurtaining that Mrs. Frisbee is giving the place?” “Tf people’s front doors had ears,” went on Nancy, “T’d certainly box them at this season of the year. They have such a maddening way of calling and beckoning—and mocking—you with their knowing looks and their sly tales of gay confusion within. I’d really pay admittance to get inside some of them.” And so it is I’ve ordered for Nancy a subscription to the House Beautiful, in honor of her anniversary this month, for in the October number I know she will have the joy of peeping behind some most allur- ing doors—doors of shops, of decorators, of homes, where the activities of fall furnishing are in full swing. And because Nancy hopes, by another year, to have a small house and a large garden of her very own, I know, too, how priceless she will find all the infor- mation and suggestions that the coming numbers will bring her. The House Beautiful will show you how you, too, may make every inch of your house and your garden spell opportunity of the happiest kind. Don’t you want to start the House Beautiful habit today?

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The House Beautiful Company, V-10-1-23 8 Arlington Street, Boston 17, Mass. Gentlemen :— Enclosed find $1.00 for 5 Months* $3.00 for 15 Months** $4.00 for 2 Years***

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So ARC re sage Ne Spee Here are two cars whose superiority must be so perfectly apparent to anyone who even studies the pictures, to say nothing of the cars them- selves, that it seems inconceivable that anything in their price-division can possibly stand up under comparison. The wonder of it grows when it is learned that good Maxwell re-sale values are higher all over the United States than anything in their class. This valuation is established by the dealers in all makes of cars in all parts of the country, in their authoritative reference book entitled National Used Car Market Report. It is based on the long-lived service, greater economy and superior appear- ance which are today synonymous with the name of the good Maxwell. MAXWELL MOTOR CORPORATION, DETROIT, MICHIGAN MAXWELL-CHALMERS MOTOR COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD., WINDSOR, ONT. Cord tires, non-skid front and rear; disc steel wheels, demount- able at rim and at hub; drum type The Hiei Tenainiaer lamps; pressure chassis lubrica- Coupe tion; motor driven electric horn; unusually long springs; new type $ 1 p i 3 5 water-tight windshield. Prices F.O.B. Detroit, revenue tax to be added: Touring, $885; Roadster, $885; Sport T ouring,$1025; Special Sport Touring, $1045; Sport Roadster, $975; Club Coupe, $985; Four-Passenger Coupe, $1235; Sedan, $1335.

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October 1 \ \ \\ AS ee SS See ERE comes the mode. Here comes the bride. Here H comes the débutante. What, not together? Yes, all of them in the next number of Vogue. In this issue, there is a comprehensive account of the earlier great Paris openings. But, of course, the salons keep right on showing new and lovely models, and there are still other maisons de couture to open, and, always, there are postscript thoughts to come, highly important to the mode. So, in the next, the October 15 issue, Vogue will present its own selection of the fashions that have “arrived” for winter. Out of all those endless processions of models that took days and nights to see and sketch, the crystallization of the mode will emerge. The Paris Fashions Number decisively closes the entries. As for the bride—she arrives, from New York and Paris simultaneously, in five illustrated pages that are as authoritative and sleeves were the smart Parisienne’s choice on the momentous day? That ... But it’s all in those five pages, together with ever so much more. As for the débutante—Vogue tells her just how to come out and how far. What is more to the point, Vogue tells her esteemed mother (who is, naturally, much easier to advise) what part the New York mother plays to-day in her daughter’s launching. And, if there are any questions that arise on either of these two subjects—brides or débutantes—, Vogue’s In- formation Bureau comes as near to knowing everything as the lot of mortals admits. . . . (Modest? Well, maybe not. But truth is a virtue surpassing modesty! ) Last of all—but most intriguing—comes a Robert Locher article wherein the artist takes a holiday and designs Q po cushions—charming little soft bits OCF »- KKe , } 72 > of gaiety, each different from the weighty as they are decorative and light. Did you know that no bride is ever satisfied to-day with other than the longest, slimmest, simplest lines? That white velvet is the very last word in wedding-dresses? That long é The Early Paris Openings - - - - - 43-63 oa The Hidden Charms of Old Newport - 64-65 The Hammond House at Gloucester - - 66-67 Interesting Peoples - - - - - - - 68-69 Mrs. Edwin Main Post, junior - - - 70 Editorial: How to Teil the Fashions — the Follies - + - 71 Sketches of an English Rack Meet - - 72-73 Seen on the Stage - - KT705 vied: Contents for October 1, 1923 EARLY PARIS OPENINGS NUMBER Cover Design by Georges Lepape Mrs. John C. Waterbury Post-Cards from Venice and Deauville - 74-75 Fashion Fancies Simplicity in Footgear 78-81 Paris Bids the Silhouette Go Straight - 82-83 other and from any you ever saw. Moreover, he tells just how to make them . . .gwhich constitutes an in- cllizencayi for you! This tot-to-be-missed number will appear on.the tenth of October. A RP a - - - Frontispiece - - - - - 76-77 Modes in Mourning - - - - - - - 84-85 : Seen in the Shops - - - - - - = 86-87 Hair-Dressing for Little Girls st peat at 88 Fm Chic Modes for School - - - - - - 89 Vogue Designs for the Seamstress - - - 90-94 fe On Her Dressing-Table - - - - - - 96 . See + se ew wt we ew ee 98 For the Hostess - - - - =~ = = = 100 : : . Se ie ee ee ee eee The Well-Ordered Mantel - - - - 108-110 pute tie, Eat. Cede and te Fume One OE I ag ogg tog et Making a Will - - - - - = = = 116-120 subscription prices. will be furnished on request.” Ieemit by Londen. ‘Paris address: 2 rue Edouard VIL, Paris, France. The Case for Rare Books - + - = - 128 cheque, draft, or postal or express money order, Other re- Cable address: Vopar, Taris. Condé Nast, President; mittances at sender’s risk. eaten aE Witte, ‘Beoeettr Ries” ete tes: ee ee a Change of Address.—The adress of subserbers can be Editor; Heyworth Campbell, Art Director: Philippe Ortiz, What They Read ----+-+-+ - 146 changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please European Director. Manuscripts must be accompanied by postage _ for thei: return if unavailable. Vogue no rest ility for unsolicited contributions except to accord them courteous attention and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless the drawings are sent at the order of Vogue or by arrangement with its New York office. Title Vogue reaistered in the U. S. Patent Office Copyright, 1923, by The Condé Nast Publications, Inc. VOL. NO. 62 NO. 7 WHOLE NO. 1224 give both the new address and the name and address exactly as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. Four weeks’ notice is required for changing an address or for a new subscription, Entered as second class matter Fehruary 16, 1910, at the Post Office at New York, N. Y., under the act of March 3, 1879. Printed in the U. S. A. Cable Address: Vonork.

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RE SOT Cie ea ar RRR at Sea yo 8 f ES RONG AMEE BLESS FIO. PE AE SME REE, ENE NT I OI ME BS an Dn 22s “Se Steichen MRS. JOHN C. WATERBURY Mrs. John C. Waterbury was Miss Sarah B Roberts betore her marriage. Her husband is one of the several popular sons of Mr. James M. Waterbury, of New York. Mr. and Mrs. Waterbury have just returned to New York for the winter, having spent the summer at Newport

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October 1 N the models shown in the early Paris openings, the new winter mode is based upon the tube-like silhouette. But the couturiers avoid monotony by adding, here and there, fur bands, circular sec- tions, or ruffles. Some models are as straight as a string from shoulder to hem. Others are straight and flat in the back with fulness in the front, which is formed by a circular section covering the entire front, extending only to the knees, or fall- ing from the knees to.the lower edge. A third type has a frill set on all around, about eight inches above the hem. Very new is the straight frock without a belt, sometimes with a straight tunic which may or may not have a fur band at the bottom. The tunic appears in several other versions: one spreading in bell shape all around; one full in front only; one flaring at the hips on both sides. A salient feature of the mode is the gen- eral shortening of skirts. For daytime wear, they are a good ten inches from the rly Pare "Che ngs floor—even shorter in some houses. The length of afternoon frocks depends on their type; many are short. Even dinner- gowns are sometimes from six to ten inch- es from the floor. Some of the latest col- lections, however, show a few models on long, slim lines with fulness spreading on the floor about the feet. And a tendency to let the back of the evening gown trail on the floor while the front is lifted off the ground also appears. Velvet is king of winter materials. Wool- lens, moire, and Ottoman silks are much in use for coats and suits, and satin ap- pears in many qualities and weaves for wear at all times of the day. Colours are rather sombre for the street, lighter for afternoon, and brilliant for evening. Simple suits have hip-length coats in one line with their short, narrow skirts. More elaborate ones have straight three- quarter coats over dresses that have skirts with some fulness, giving the misleading effect of a ruffle attached to the coat.

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44 CHAN E's A faint tracery of diamond grapes with their tendrils glistens on a green crépe °* de Chine frock which is worn with an embroidered coat lined with crépe to match and ornamented with lavish brown fur trimmings 7 tN 2 ER VOGUE C2? Lae 8a tt nN Though Chanel is deserting somewhat her beloved em- broideries, she offers many handsome embroidered coats like this of green crépe de Chine entirely covered with tarnished gold designs and edged with brown fur MODELS FROM CHANEL less embroidery than last season, no brocades, few fanci- ful fabrics—, just charming frocks, distinguished in this simplicity. They are of crépe, velvet, or chiffon, usually with some delightful little movement in the skirt accompanied with pleatings, with frills, with a flowing sash, or with a trailing end. The models of Chanel have grace, a quality difficult to achieve and too little seen in these days of hurried achievements. In the morning, Chanel wants the woman to look neat and boyish, so her costumes are short and trim, with coats to the top of the hip or just below. There are also tailleurs of the CC rante things are the acme of simplicity—showing classic type, with coats double-breasted in front, made of English materials, often in brown shades. Semi-sports cos- tumes continue to use the patterned tricot which Chanel has made famous. The three-piece suits of this couturier have blouses of thinner materials to match. After the simple models comes the ensemble of coat and dress or coat and skirt with attached blouse. The coats are usually not tube-like, but have some flare in the skirts; they are frequently lavishly trimmed with fur, which often ruris up the sides to the waist. The frocks are of kasha, crépe de (Continued on page 106)

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October 1 45 rA 2 OC @* win 2 2s COLL FCT t?-C'N Note—For full de- scription of this col- lection, see page 122 (Left) Patou favours a (Right) The shades of night are likely to be copper coloured this winter, as in an ensem- ble including a crépe dress trimmed with bead fringe and a wrap of a new lamé resembling metal crépe The majority of Patou’s daytime models have a flare at the hem, pro- duced by a _ circular flounce on the wrap or the dress beneath a_ three - quarter MODELS FROM PATOU ( revival of the décol- letage descending into a deep V in back, the long, fitted waist-line, and the flat back and circular front, shown in this magnificent bro- cade dress The circular influence persists with all the designers, notably in flounces, which often follow an upward diag- onal line on afternoon frocks of the winter

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ne Se Fics fe te & Gx me. oe) es | is ee ee! wee ee Fit Os PREMET This coat-frock of black broadcloth presents a graceful variation of the straight silhouette. A circular sec- tion is set into the skirt and rises to a point on the side. Red silk lines the pocket inserted at the waist-line and embroiders the collar HE simple frock of the type so popular last season is the triumph of Premet. There is a series of them, each varied with some original detail. Most of them are straight in line, sometimes with circular ful- ness somewhere, as in the model sketched on this page. The tailleurs are usually straight, with hip-length coats making one line with the short narrow skirts, for Premet has shortened all his daytime skirts, as have many other houses. Many have blouses contrasting in colour and material, often of the straight jacket shape. More formal suits have three-quarter coats — sometimes quite straight, often with a soft flare somewhere, (Continued on page 104)

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October 1 D@UILLET Preeminently chic is this black vel- vet tunic frock for afternoon made by Deuillet. The Chinese em- broidery in bright and tarnished gold and bands of the new brown fur, “pijiki,” which looks like Hud- son sable, make the trimming CEUILLET’S collection is so varied that it is hard to determine the salient features of it. The tailleurs are of all characters. For country wear, some have pleated skirts, jacket-like “vareuse” blouses and dark plaid skirts; some are made of tweeds with three-quarter capes to complete them. The heavy Ottoman silk which is in- teresting many houses is used here for short tailleur coats and for the very straight dresses which, with the coats, form dis- tinctive three-piece suits. After- noon costumes are of rich ma- terials, such as moire, Ottoman silk, or velvet, with a great deal of fur trimming, used often in volant effect either directly on (Continued on page 110) PeeTiiige*s WINTER CO Lie C Ti Gn

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POLLAROCO. Simplicity of fabric and distinctive line mark this satin gown The slender silhouette appears in a white crépe evening gown in a lovely apricot shade. The train vanishes behind a flaring beaded in white and rose. A draped section, placed low on the bow set a trifle on the side, and an extrémely deep décolletage skirt, is the only departure from the straight line, which 1s pointedly ignores the rather high neck-line in front. Dark fur further accentuated by the rose lining of the flounced gold crépe bands the front of the skirt tissue cape trimmed with skunk MODELS FROM WORTH ELVET, velvet, velvet, is the key-note of the Worth col- lection; even the simpler costumes seem to be all of vel- vet in rich, dark shades. There are many long or three- quarter velvet coats trimmed with fur—some quite straight, others with a godet on one side or a flare from the knees— worn over dresses either as straight and narrow as a pencil or else softly full, often in front only. Sometimes, these dresses are really very long cuirass blouses with frills, usually of the coat material, added at the hem. The blouses are of rich materials, contrasting harmoniously in colour or heavily em- broidered. Moire, Ottoman silk, and silk rep are employed (Continued on page 110) " 2.e Se ER Ca bh & Boe ee ew

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October 1 Black velvet with ermine is a most striking success of the season. Jenny especially favours the combination. She makes this model with a tunic on severely narrow lines over an under- skirt and finishes it with a scarf collar. A jade buckle and green lining add colour to the costume MODELS FROM JENNY Many of Jenny’s frocks and coats open directly up the back instead of in front; for example, this suit of brown rep, the coat of which is bordered with beaver. A noticeable feature ts the use of a narrow band of galloon in dull green and red cross- stitch, outlining the fur edging HE general line in the Jenny collection is straight and narrow. There are quantities of long tunic dresses, some- times flaring slightly at the hem and worn over narrow skirts; sometimes slit up one side, affording glimpses of another colour. This is the most striking note, but there are other interesting models with fulness concentrated in the front of flaring, fur-edged tunics, and a tentative few with the fulness on the hips. The tailleurs are very varied in length and in the types of jackets seen. Perhaps, the favourite is the costume consisting of a long, straight, fur-banded coat and a frock, which has less fulness than this combination shows at (Continued on page 102) eo ae a Be wo eee Se Bes & OL L B46: T1-0-8

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VOGUE MMMM

WY Note — For full descrip- tion of Groult’s collection, see page 126 oily, Z Ly <a WM WWW Wv SS Ra REA A_D_.A.iAiAs'SFAiFTCOCos,G,G,G,-.,.,. CF FH Gg *

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A Lelong dress with white kid trimmings The upper part, including the sleeves, is brilliant with brown, blue, white, and of Lelong’s black velvet coat is adorned red checks. The Lewis hat of black ciré with a crisscross pattern of chenille balls. ribbon has a mother-of-pearl buckle The Lewis hat has quill trimmings (Below) In a garnet velvet and silver (Below) The importance of brown is

frock by Lelong, a strass buckle gathers evident in the bands of roses cleverly the fulness towards the front and secures embroidered in exquisite brown and beige the fur-edged panel. The second frock shades on the front apron of a charming is described on the opposite page black velvet gown from Nicole Groult : he ff il SSS SSSA GSA SSE

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a WON WO SS “SS ; - ps Ba ue ss: é "Sienna Z MOU MOO OOMOMLOML WS Light grey spiral motifs are the sole trimming of a vivid blue satin dress with a bouffant skirt achieved by gathers over the hips. Narrow black bias bands outline the gown; from Groult; posed by Madeleine Turban RK GW ee£R dit SSS

SRW —_£DBrrw<haDAAADAANA "Fux XS WW Yi, SSS THE WINTER COLLECTIONS OF

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NICOLE GROULT AND LELONG WI. Rehbinder, Paris

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October 1 QQQNXKKKXI DW QA, Oo DI \\ Xs : © s . Ss RSS wr ew Note — For full descrip- tion of Lelong’s collection, see page 124 blll Wild Po orl age Wy id dddiyjg SOOT SC Red bead embroidery is the touch of col- Lelong gives to the fragility of gold and our given a black crépe de Chine frock silver embroidered tulle the weight of by Nicole Groult. Pleated ruffles form kolinsky and then adds stability to the the skirt; posed by Madeleine Turban whole with a marron velvet lining (Below) Green velvet leaves in a darker shade than the frock trail down the left side of a jade green evening gown from (Below) Bead embroidery and buttons adequately trim the blue wool tailleur (left). Ruffles and a chiffon collar per- form the same service for the frock at both from Nicole Groult N N Lelong. At the waist-line, three large velvet fowers form a decorative triangle the right; \ \ \ \ N SN ee gO DA AW OOEE£KB BE .'’UhnTnrm#t’t’EnckK€Z7E EEX FEW_—="”#=EW NS X Wpbitdililddiyy ly Ghddddddddddddddddeeddllc VM did Mdldl This Lelong coat of brown velvet and silver lamé receives a decidedly new treatment. Beaver not on'y makes the collar and cuffs, but the wide band at the bottom. The hat from Lewis is of brown velvet MMMM eee eeccccceeccccceeceedeocttt, BOTH LELONG AND GROULT Yd ARE FEATURING EMBROIDERY LN SSE WL Rehbinder, Paris

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WIL. Rehbinder, Paris A REVIVAL PAUL CARET V'rains are giving additional dignity and slenderness to a number of evening models. This gown is of red créve de Chine, with a deep oval décolletage in back and a flower trimming somewhat above a low waist-line defined by two flat folds of the material OF THE TRAIN FOR FORMAL EVENING

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October 1 53 [ Lipnitzki, Paris POIRET Poiret finds exotic expression in an evening coat within a coat; the first of white crépe, the second of black and silver brocade. Both are banded with Hudson seal WI, Rehbinder, Paris PAUL CARET Velvet retains its importance in evening wraps. In this cloak of rose velvet, a new feature appears im the collar made of ostrich feathers instead of fur PAUL POIRET’S WINTER COLLECTION PAUL CARET’S WINTER COLLECTION it, in some gowns, to the extent of swathing the figure. With his usual success, he plays with colours and revels in rich materials, creating afternoon gowns of marvellous grace and suppleness and producing surprising effects in linings. Street costumes are made in basque form, as well as with long panels tied in front after the Egyptian fashion. Skirts are rather short, except for evening. A number of gowns show winged effects. Materials include checked velvets, kashas, and satins, with lamés and embroidered fabrics for evening. Pir irs adheres to the straight silhouette, even accenting AUL CARET makes a feature of evening gowns in his col- Priection Many of them have a very straight, narrow line, with long double trains in the back, giving much move- ment to the silhouette, or with a long hanging panel, either on one side or on each side of the front, giving the same effect of movement. The general impression of the whole collection is one of extreme narrowness and length, for, here, the skirts have not been shortened, as they have elsewhere. A circular frill running round the hem of a narrow model and up in a point on (Continued on page 132)

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Note—For full de- scription of this col- lection, see page 114 MOLYNEUA’S The rich tones of the narrow rows of beaver trimming blend harmoni- ously with the dark brown velvet of a very straight coat that is wrapped gracefully about the figure (Left) Varied fur and fabric combinations have been con- trived for the tubular coats of the winter. This one is of heavy black woollen material trimmed with mixed grey Persian lamb in dark shades MODELS FROM WINTER (Right) Brown is very chic this season. Here, it appears in the wool embroidery on the short coat and in the beaver trimming of this three-piece suit of black rough-surfaced broadcloth and slim silhouette MOLYNEUX CO Lis & 270 N

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October 1 Note—For full de- scription of this col- lection, see page 120 A versatile affair is this coat-dress of “tilleul” velvet, in a new golden heige shade, for the folded collar may be removed to achieve an open neck-line and worn as a toque (Left) Many winter afternoon (Right) A new tendency to ac- dresses are practically sleeveless, centuate the hips, which was like this one of black crépe de noticeable in several collections, Chine with the circular flare in gives distinction to a frock of front ascending one side. The the Rodier moire, printed in black cord neck trimming ends rose-red and navy blue, now in tasselled ends much in demand MODELS FROM MARTIAL ET ARMAND MARTIAL ET ARMAND’S WINTER COLLECTION

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(Below, lejt) The length, but not the silhouette, of an almond-green wool coat is broken by a series of panels that end at the hip-line. the becoming collar and narrow cuffs are of beaver (Below, right) Godets of skunk in front give fulness to a rust col- oured tailleur with applied de- signs of the fabric. Otherwise, it is cut perfectly straight, and the back 1s very flat AVIOTTY (Above, left) Whether this wrap of brown cloth with opossum col- lar and cuffs is a coat or a cape depends a great deai on the point of view, but it is decidedly smart from all its angles (Above, right) This coat of black cloth trimmed with badger ts just one pleat after another, and they all have but a single thought— to preserve the straight silhouette of the new season BERNARD ET CIE THE. COLLECTIONS OF BERNARD ET CIE AND AVIOTTY

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October 1 (Below, left) Grey rabbit provides the fur trimming decreed by the mode on a smart tailleur of blue velvet with enormous pockets lavishly embroidered in_ gold, red, and blue silk (Below, right) Tapering panels extending from the jacket to be- low the hem-line of the skirt ac- centuate the modish slenderness of a black velvet afternoon cos- tume trimmed with fox Note—For full description of the collection of Paul Caret, see page 132, of Philippe et Gaston, see page 130 PHILIPPE ET GASTON THE COLLECTIONS OF PAUL CARET PAUL CARET (Above, left) Narrow gold bands at regular intervals duplicate the line of the V décolletage in a bril- liant orange frock with a slight, graceful flare breaking its straight- ness at the bottom (Above, right) A rose velvet dress covered with a tracery of embroi- dery is weighted down at the left side by the uneven panels which are fashioned of velvet in two tones of rose colour AND PHILIPPE ET GASTON

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58 iu Pt ahi *:s MODELS FROM LUCILE (Above, lejt) This frock owes its effectiveness not to intricate con- struction, but to a deft combina- tion of black satin and red velvet. Its first appearance was duly recorded in black and white at Deauville last summer (Above, right) The daring diag- onal lines of a green moire dress leave a graceful shoulder entirely bare. Large, brilliant flowers, in orange, ochre, and yellow shades, secure the straight panel descend- ing at the right side w IN TR (Below, lejt) Cheviot cloth in a new cinnamon-brown makes this costume with a jacket flounced in front, straight in back, and trimmed with galloon in a darker shade. A scarf collar tops the straight, buttoned fastening (Below, right) Beneath the jacket of this same model lurks a smart little frock having a modish two- tiered skirt and a crépe de Chine blouse with front and sleeves pleated. Narrow lace borders the turned-over collar and cuffs i an Xn = eo KOCK cx To Sl Oe eres SO ee OID OISreretes VOGUE COLL t Fi0ON

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October 1 59 (Below, lejt) d1 long broadtail redingote temporarily hides from view a chic little crépe marocain frock ornamented with red and silver embroidery. Four panels, long in front and short on the sides, comprise the skirt (Below, right) Tiny mirrors twin- kle through the white embroidery covering a flaring beige wool jacket. Skunk and black velvet furnish the trimming. This ac- companies the black satin frock seen at the top of page 60 ieee oat z Note—For full description of j be ef his collecti 2 ae this collection, see page 120 be .4 aya . x} | # PaRTY ¥ ss ™ 7 gic > ee ee ee MODELS FROM GERMAINE (Above, left) Panels of ibis-rose velvet alternate with longer ones of silver lamé, backed with cash- mere designs, in an evening gown of unusual chic. Three large loops of lamé break the straight lines at the left side (Above, right) A gown of the new copper tissue has a long cor- sage finished by a frill that nar- rows as it ascends towards the bow, at the side, of brown velvet and black tulle with a decorative copper and jade ornament GERMAIN E’S WINTER SG Or i) Baa Paes

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TOLLMANN GERMAINE This black broadcloth costume Rows of tiny rose coloured with a cream coloured linen buttons trim the bodice of a collar and black satin piping black satin dress; the skirt 1s has the charm of simplicity pleated both front and back ka Wl. Rehbinder, Paris PAUL CARET The statuesque slimness of a gown in geranium- and gold-striped material is varied by a knee ruffle pleated in groups of three and by this designer’s favoured double train descending from the shoul- ders in back MODELS THAT PROVE THE CHIC OF GERMAINE PAUL CARET Chenille embroidery surmounts The effectiveness of black the velvet bands on this suit. crépe and silver lamé ts stimu- T H E S T R A I G H T -L I N E Velvet puffs on sleeves and col- lating the ingenuity of the lar ornament the costume cleverest Parisian designers

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October 1 TOLLMANN Blue serge and black satin unite charmingly in a frock with a serge apron overskirt tied very gracefully at one side Fe \ fis ee aN ’ ire ‘\ oa —— ayo TOLLMANN Tollmann’s new double-pointed skirt is a feature of a formal af- ternoon frock in lustrous black satin and richly coloured lamé ALICE BERNARD A straight-line frock of Rodier cashmere with red, yellow, blue, and gold designs ends in a black velvet flounce YTEB This designer favours costumes comprising a simple crépe frock and a mole-trimmed coat of Mever’s cashmere de laine WI. Rehbinder, Paris LELONG Echoes of the Egyptian influence rever- berate through a frock of greenish vel- vet brocaded with silver palm-leaves. The back is plain and flat; a fur-edged panel swings from a strass and enamel buckle in front PATTERNED FABRICS FIGURE IN MANY WINTER COSTUMES

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Note — For full description of this collection, see page 132 the most interesting novelty of this collection is shown a coat-dress resembling a suit of black broadcloth, trimmed with grey chenille embrot- dery, a crépe de Chine frill, and grey fox fur. The tunic flares in the Persian manner (Left) Chinese embroidery in siver and green provides a colour note ina chic little frock of navy reps de laine. The back of the waist is finely pleated (Right) In back, this gown is of silver lamé with a palm-leaf pattern; in front, of plain black crépe. A large onyx ornament secures the side drapery NODELS FROM JEANNE HAI LEE WINTER COLLECTION Oe ee Ae oe a JEANNE

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October 1 CALLOT (Below) A bouffant frock, designed by Callot especially jor Florence Wal- ton, follows the new peacock silhou- ette with flounces of orange and lemon tulle trimmed at the waist-line by yellow sunflowers with green centre. LOUISE MARSY CAMILLE ROGER Flaring wings of double- faced faille ribbon, in ma- rine) and coral colour. augment the charm of a marine velvet toque ae | A new note in millinery is the huge black satin bow towering over an 1n- teresting toque of black satin ribbon Abbé, Paris CALLOT DRESSES FLORENCE WALTON FOR THE DANCE \

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opener sem open — <= ere A tl

The ancient stone mill in Newport, supposed to have been erected in the eleventh cen- tury by the Vikings, watches with its window-eyes the passing of the centuries—and of the ladies, past and present THE HIDDEN CHARMS OF OLD NEWPORT Quaint Inns, Amusing Shops, and Phantom Personages Lure the Visitor To the Half-Forgotten Side Streets of This Historic Summer Capital HE Newport day in the height of the sea- son may be one of the most crowded days in the world. It starts at twelve o’clock by the waves of Bailey’s Beach and ends near dawn to a dying “jazz” tune. A swim, lunch, tennis, golf, Mah Jong or bridge, a dinner, a dance or two, and then the same old routine begins over again. August days are fuller than any other days: the Tennis Tournament at the Casino during the week of August 13th; the Horse Show the 27th, 28th, and 29th; the Golf Tourna- ment arranged for the lead- ing amateur golfers; and the swimming races at Bailey’s Beach. Is there some little moment to come | tr face to face with the gen- tle old dame Newport— that charming, retreating, somnolent creature whose yz mantle has been almost E snatched away by rude progress? The real lover of old Newport, although his stay with her may be only a yearly fortnight, makes al- ways an effort to greet her. The longer one has known her, the fonder one is of her. Where is there an- other seaside place with such wealth of romantic tradition? There are to be discovered quaint streets and delightful Georgian a ]

By WEYMER MILLS houses—not so many as there were ten years ago, but still enough of a fragrance remaining to whisper memories of the great old lady’s past. The summer visitor, whose grandmother was on the list of the summer visitors of yesterday— coming to Newport early in June for sea-bathing before the hectic midsummer dash to crowded Saratoga—usually has some sentiment about Newport—the place. He hurries to Thames Street to see how many of the old gambrel-roofed =.

cm

shops are left. Fifty years ago, it was a purely eighteenth-century street. Then, he moves on to the old stone mill, the columns of which are like ligaments about the heart of the place. Probably, no spot in America has seen so many visions of feminine loveliness through a good century and a half. “Let us walk to the old stone mill,” was on the first page of the fash- ionable primer of the Newport belle. Girls in hoops and powder came there ogling and lan- guishing on the arms of redcoats or _ bluecoats. Clearer pictures are those fair creatures from the South in white crinolines and blue sashes. The girls of Dixie were once the toasts of Newport. Very ancient beaux remember \ them: “No such d—— — fine women to-day!” they sigh. “You should have seen Newport way back in the old days when the world — especially the Southern world—went to the Ocean House for the noon mint julep.” “Why, At Bristol Ferry Inn, one chaperon isa de- cided mistake; two or three are better —they look after each other

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October 1 When the amateur collector of antiques stops at the Sign of Steele, she learns, before leaving, the lamentable truth about some of her early American pos- sessions dem Kentucky fine gentlemen, dey thought noth- ing of slipping you a five-dollar bill for holding a horse when they was getting dat julep,” says old black Cesar, a lad in the slave — “Fine times . all done gone by. YOUNG LOBSTERS AND MOONLIGHT Newport offers many delightful things to do— sidestepping or whirling away from the usual thing in a two-seater. When one tires of one’s cook—or she leaves suddenly on the night-boat—, there is the Sakonnet Inn at the Point, where one is sure of young lobsters and a moonlight sauce, if Luna happens to be about her business. At Bristol Ferry is the Bristol Ferry Inn, kept by a Mrs. Hubbard, whose name rhymes so well with cupboard that it serves for many a pun. At either of these places, the gay husband or wife playing at one of the best-known games in boredom—marital hide-and-seek—runs away and has a little dinner with her, or him, and a group of chaperons. A single chaperon is quite a mis- take in Newport. ‘Two or three are better—they look after themselves! “Lost at the ferry”— “Taking chops in the cupboard”—“Punctured by the bay,” are all in the slang of the moment. Of course, there is the famous Clam Bake Club, originated years ago by William Hunter and nearer the soul of Bellevue Avenue. At all these places, one can have the spring chickens of New- port, which seem never to reach a tough ma- turity, whatever the season. The visitor who knows his island asks for johnny-cakes—white corn cakes that are part of the menu of all old inhabitants. Washington was addicted to them, they will tell you. At Portsmouth, and not far from that charming old homestead acquired by the late Alfred Vanderbilt from an old Rhode Island family, is the Sakawain Inn. Here, one can eat some of the food of the gods, served daily at twelve o’clock and six. An inviting- looking little place is the Sign of the Flying Wild Duck, at Little Compton. The scenery tlere makes one think of the renowned Sussex meadow-land. It is true, there are no red brick manors grown pink and faded from the kiss of centuries, but there are grey farmhouses a little happier looking than most grey New England farmhouses, and over them the meadow-larks seem to make perpetual music. For afternoon tea, the Grey Tea-Room, in the shadow of the deserted Acquidneck Hotel, is a quaint retreat. Here lived the witty Jane Stuart, daughter of that most renowned eight- eenth-century American painter. One enters the cottage hoping it is going to be filled with precious canvases—the likenesses of men and women who knew Rochambeau, Lafayette, de Fersen, and other immortals, but, alas, most of the Stuart portraits have journeyed far from the back streets of Newport. They now live in Fifth Avenue and Bond Street. Once barely worth their weight in silver to their limner, pos- terity balances them with pearls. “Aha, the fox! and after him they ran,” wrote Dan Chaucer, but it’s not that way at Newport. (Below) The devastating ocean winds, whirling around this ghostly mansion, could whisper a tale of a time long since past when young English dukes found “Vau- clause,” the finest specimen of colonial architecture in New England, the happy courting ground for wandering lovers most of the hunting is chasing antiques. Here. “Hark in, hark!” is usually cheered at some human hound—from one eager hound to another —as they find a street, court, or alley with the sign-board “Curios’—and a grimy cobwebbed window. Newport is famous for its antiques, especially early American furniture, its Goddards, and its Townsends. The great sea-captains and merchant princes of the eighteenth century were liberal patrons of the cabinetmakers. Every- where, one hears of what has been found in old Newport houses and what is still to be found. The great millionaire in his palace who has been “stuck” and “stung” by the unscrupulous in his frantic efforts to have art treasures like his neighbours, wakes up to the fact that it might be wise to study this business of acquiring beauty—the rare and the exquisite. Newport is a wonderful place in which to secure correct information on “fakes.” THE ANTIQUE. SHOPS OF NEWPORT Steele, the modern Newport Goddard, has told many a perplexed and perspiring Cresus things about his old furniture that he never expected to hear. At his little shop in Pelham Street, working away at his bench, he chats serenely of old pieces and old times to chance customers and friends. “Go to Steele,” is a Newport cry. “He will tell you what you want to know. He will find for you the thing you would like to find!” Of course, there is the long- established house of Vernon at Newport, and newhere else in the world is there a more interest- ing antique shop from the golden-eagle-guarded front door to the end ‘of a ‘seeming mile of (Continued on page 144)

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= = OID SELES A OS i Be HRRRORE! se MRE 5 : 23 9 ~ acaba ALEGRE TSE LS IE OR 2 ihn. ~ lton: eae Paul J. Weber Like a romantic castle by the sea, the stately house, with its forty- foot tower and great windows, looms above the walled terraces leading down into the turbulent Gloucester harbour. “Point Radio” is a fitting name for the house of this well-known inventor SE T. E. Marr and Son RQNRNNNRRd.WNwW".-»env™ff M.A qo GGL pithy". VOGUE THE COUNTRY HOME IN GLOUCESTER (Below) Panelling from an old farmhouse has been painted mustard-yellow as a_back- ground for the plum and amber glass in cupboard and shelves of the small sitting- room. Brilliant hooked rugs supplement the colourings of plum and brown chintzes

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October 1 67 EL hi LED: sll. didi OF MR. JOHN HAYS HA M- MOND, JUNIOR (Below) Cheery vistas oj tropical lagoons and Alpine villages are painted on the bed- room wall-paper, and dull green furniture, constructed by a local cabinetmaker, contrasts most agreeably with the black and white floor and canary- yellow bedquilt WM GG 4 Paul J. Weber MUM MMMM A massive organ fills two sides of the tower at the end of the central hall, a huge window an- other, while Elizabethan panelling and a Spanish painted ceiling complete the effectiveness of the great central hall of this romans tically situated house a LddtocdddccrcceccccccclectlKddla, T. E. Marr and Son

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68 VOGUE (Left) Mrs. Payne Whit- ney, Miss Joan Whitney, Mr. Payne Whitney, and Miss Virginia Ryan share in the prevailing excite- ment over the outcome o} | the races at Saratoga Springs (Middle) A glimpse of Mrs. ]. Borden Harriman, an ardent supporter of the League of Nations and of the active participa- tion of women in politics, just before sailing for Europe A. Brown Alexander acai WEL. Fotograms Fotograms “International Newsreel’’ Mrs. Joshua Cosden and Cap- tain Mackintosh were inter- ested spectators of the Sara- toga races Prominent among the younger set at Narragansett Pier were the Misses Nancy and Melissa Yuille INTERESTING PEOPLE IN A (Right) Mr. Reginald C. Van- derbilt and his bride, formerly Miss Gloria Morgan, return on the “Leviathan” from an ex- tended honeymoon in Europe VARIETY OF INTERESTING MOODS AND MOMENTS Kadel and Herbert

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October 1 py LATE SUMMER SNAP- (Left) Mrs. Charles H. Sabin presides over one of the most beautiful houses in Southampton, very near the National Golf Club SHOTS TAKEN AT THE Wh, dail FASHIONABLE RESORTS UMMM ~ WT s ‘> Le YG "yp Le cdeeeceeedccee Wy V4 TS os : WS ‘Soe Wide World Photos Miss Muriel Vanderbilt, faultlessly attired, was seen leaving the tennis matches at Newport in the merriest Prominent among those enjoying the late sum- mer at Bailey’s Beach in Newport was Mrs. James WWW W Lenox Banks, junior Three Photographs by Alexander A. Brown of moods Miss Millicent Rogers, who 1s (Below) An interested gallery noted for her charm and for her watched the annual tennis tourna- exquisite taste in dress, spent the ments beneath the stately trees summer season at Southampton surrounding the Newport Casino of ’ ees - “International Newsree’”’

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‘ ali K 70 - it ONE % i] | f y i 4 qd i ' ; j ; i 3 i H oa 4 2 i : 4 y 3 i : ; ; 233 ‘ : ] 4 ze i 3, ; o : b4 . > 4 3 > 4 4 # ~ o »4 ¥ 4 F = i 4 ‘ * + 4 J 4 3 ~3 F 8 J F 4 e : : ; hi : i ¥ 4 : he a a t re a : “a s RE: Steichen MRS. EDWIN MAIN POST, JUNIOR Mrs. Edwin Main Post, junior, who was Miss Barbara Loew before her marriage, is the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Goadby Loew and is one of the most attractive of the younger mar- ried women in New York. Her husband is the son of Mrs. Price Post, who is well known as an author np ile Bee VOGUE

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October 1 71 HOW TO TELL THE FASHIONS FROM THE FOLLIES Fanciful Elegancies of Dress, Conceived with Taste and Fittingly Worn, Constitute the Mode; Extravagance in Design and Detail of Costume, Assumed by the Wrong People on the Wrong Occasion, Mark Its Travesty 66 Y love in her attire doth show her wit, it doth so well become her,” sings one satisfied gentleman; but not many are found in this, or any age, who care to emulate him. Certainly, for the few who do admire and appreciate fine examples of fashion, the many are unob- servant or, if they observe, wish, like Mr. Pepys, that women would not be “so set to make themselves fantastical.” Boys and the men who are grownup boys (of which every nation has a large percentage) exhibit a nervous desire for neatness, not gaudiness, on the part of females belonging to them; though this is often totally lacking in their regard for females free or belonging to others. Men of a more sophisticated, adult kind do indeed seem tolerant, amused, interested, and even gratified by smartness in their womenfolk. Such men would be more than glad to feel that their mothers, sisters, cousins, and pet- ticoated relations in general, as well as their loves, showed wit in their attire. If wives have not been more specifically men- tioned, it is because the word “loves” is virtuously supposed to stand for them. But to no other creatures on earth is suc- cessful selection of apparel so important in the eyes of their men—men of the type which, as we have said, is so rare. T has long been decided that, while the main object of the gentler sex in clothes selection is the allurement of the stronger, a woman really considers the feminine members of her set as her critical audience. She may dress for the lords, but she looks for applause from the ladies. Men, if the effect is admirable, may admire the effect; only fellow experts can be expected to see what went to the creating of it. A few masculine amateurs might; but, generally, the gentlemen who can “lie ten nights awake carving the fashion of a new doublet” are confined to the profession of mode making and are, per- haps providentially, saved from the sight of their designs on the persons of all and sundry. It is a sad truth that whomever women dress for, they do not always put their anxiety to please to the most artistic uses, nor bring common sense to bear upon the subject of when to adopt a fashion and when to adapt it and how to separate the daring from the ridiculous. ERY few people who look into mirrors see themselves at all—let alone as others see them! If they did, how could barrel-like figures trick themselves out in tight, horizon- tal-striped coverings? How could round, fleshly faces surmount their circles with little knobs of turbaned hats? How could scrawny old shoulders and arms thrust their angles into the light of clear day? What are all these addlepates thinking of? There is no arbitrary law which says, “In the spring, all dresses shall be made of pink sarsenet and have no sleeves”’; or, “In the autumn, every wrap shall be full in front and flat behind.” Fashion in herself is no such fool. She may clothe a peach- faced, eighteen-year-old model in a sleeveless pink frock and send her to a garden-party; or a tall, graceful reed of a woman in a straight-backed coat for travelling. She does not expect every size and shape of ardent or elderly creature who sees these creations to insist upon having the like and wearing them precisely as they should not, and when they should not, be worn, without taste or sense. O; fashion’s creators may be held innocent, though some of her salespeople and all of her blind votaries are to blame. The artist who has built up an ideal arrangement in Egyptian draperies for a slim young princess does not enjoy seeing them displayed over rolls of middle-aged fat; nor care to have his conception cheapened to suit second-rate taste. Yet, he may be helpless, because buyers purchase and place in multitudes before the public the caricature of his mode in a base imitation of his material. The tireless geese of the world fit themselves out regardless of age or colour, of height, breadth, or thickness, and believe themselves metamorphosed. If it were not that their eyes are holden, one would be inclined to suggest more looking-glasses, surprisingly placed in shop-windows that the images of those out a-walking might be incessantly pre- sented to their owners unawares. But one sees the most amaz- ing figures of folly surviving this shock, and it is doubtful if the unpicked many would be any more benefited by it than the picked few. Instead of ejaculating, ‘““Lark-a-Mercy on me, this is none of I!” like the wise little egg woman, when her petticoats were slyly cut by Stout, the pedlar, they would see themselves as “style,” no matter how preposterous, and pass on rejoicing. ELL,.then, one might hope that the sellers would make, not a stand, perhaps, but a protest against clothing the ordinary with extraordinary garments; that they might even know what not to exhibit to certain customers. Vain hope! The arrival of quiet, grey-haired, dignified, tailor-made gen- tility, still wearing its pockets in its skirts, at one of the mod- ern showrooms of the world, led to no poking away of inappro- priate costumes and producing of something which decent avoirdupois and age might wear. In the words of those out- raged ladies, this is what they saw: “Indecent, vulgar designs, which, shown by the new race of models with their flesh quiver- ing like jellyfish (for they have so trained their poor bodies that every portion of them can execute a tremulo), looked like the Temptation of Saint Anthony, painted by some fifth-rate artist of the Middle Ages.” And again: “Round the neck, or knees, where the waist was supposed to have descended, a huge, fat, white roll, like a young boa-constrictor, made one think of Laocoon and his sons.” ‘Nothing sewed, only pinned, or held together with one colossal button in most peculiar places. We are not over it yet!” O much for common sense, which refuses to open its purse- strings to such vagaries. But what is to be done with the born-fool fashion follower? ‘The woman who loves “style”? Suppose one explains the difference between fashion and folly. Fashion is design in dress, grown from the fanciful adaptations of some individual ideas. Only a limited number of faces and figures are suited to any particular manifestation of it. Certain lines, colours, and adjuncts make up the original. When these can be made suitable to the appearance and usage of the wearer, they are smart fashions; from the moment thousands accept them slavishly and wear them unsuitably, they are follies. The real connoisseur only waits to see “what everybody is wearing this year,” to choose something a little different.

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AAW | — p = (h 5 = f hie kL, SS UU NNN Uy CLL NMS = —SF YZ NAAR LL % UMMM, AAAAY UL. Kk D>s WILLA D LLU AN yy KI | tt VOGUE In England, they once called horse-racing the sport of Kings, but we have latterly noted, at all fashionable race-meets in Great Britain, a bewildering and ever- increasing admixture of Queens. Their carmine lips and purple parasols are everywhere. It seems always to be the women who dominate these sportive festivals. The number of lady race-horse owners in England has of ‘late increased alarmingly. It is now an almost fijty-fifty bet that, if you lay a wager there on any horse at all, you are betting on one from a lady’s stable SQ, A certain portion of the masculine race “knuts” in England still devote a small measure of their attention to the swiftly speeding horses, but an even greater measure of their attention is bestowed upon the somewhat speedier ladies who make a habit of infesting the smarter British meetings. In this picture, for instance, it will be noted that the horses are faring badly, as centres of masculine attraction, in their unequal competition with the ladies. The gentlemen depicted here must have been the chappies who inspired the late Lord Tennyson to say that a certain type of Englishman regards his wife, or lady-love, as only “a little dearer than his horse” WHERE SMART WOMEN WILL GIVE THEIR KINGDOM FOR A HORSE

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— | October 1 TO an ENGLISHMAN, NOTHING Js a4 LITTLE DEARER Than His HORSE Lord Tennyson to the Contrary, Notwithstanding UR artist recently visited Goodwood, Epsom, Ascot—and the other smart English race-courses—in the interest of Vogue. Now, the artist says that, when an American woman of fashion goes to a horse-race, say at Belmont Park, she either goes in a dispassionate and inquiring spirit or, as is more frequently the case, she goes as an exotic exhibit in hodiernal dress- making. Horse-races amuse her, yes! She is even interested, but only mildly. The horses are complete strangers to her. She thinks the colours of the jockeys crude and a little démodées. Even a generous bet on Number Six (that lanky black horse with the sore leg and the funny hood) fails to arouse in her anything at all resembling a deep or passionate interest. But, in England, the case is a wholly different one. There, a horse plays a very real part in the life of any, and every, lady of fashion. The ancient sculptors who designed (for the benefit of posterity) those entrancing statues of lady centaurs must have designed them in Britain, for, to an Englishwoman, nothing is of greater moment, nothing more passionately absorbing, than riding, steeplechasing, riding to hounds, and flat racing. Our artist has, upon this somewhat congested page, sketched a small segment only of the fashionable crowd that invariably throngs an English race-meet. Below, dear reader, you will observe a human salad at a race-course. It is entirely composed of the costliest and most highly cultivated in- gredients. Delicate little sprouts and fresh hothouse peaches are mingled inextricably with dead beats and assorted nuts of wholly uncer- tain freshness Ta wl » q + = ws SQAOOnnnay u, “te S Ss RS > MQ MDD 7 RN Ws YY EX ESS N oa SS \ 73

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a _ETESUS SOA KENNETH MACGOMWAN

t Stage h

Steichen ALENT is on the increase in the American theatre—fresh talent of a definite and prom- ising sort. Native playwrights are appear- ing who show, even in their first plays, an ability to observe human nature and to give it theatrical body. I am vividly aware of this just now, partly because I have discovered two interesting new playwrights in the last play of the old season, “Sun Up,” and the first success of the new, “In Love with Love,” and partly because I have had to prepare a reading list on contemporary American drama. The result of listing all our living playwrights who have shown enough ability to get their plays into book form is the discovery that we have more than fifteen capable men and women writ- ing for us to-day whom we did not know as successful playwrights while the war was on. And it is heartening to observe that the works of all these people fall into the class of serious drama or of intellectual comedy, and none falls into the category of merely popular entertain- ment. In 1918, Eugene O’Neill was a writer of one- act plays produced in Greenwich Village. Owen Davis was the author of “Bertha, the Sewing- Machine Girl.” Lewis Beach, who gave us “The Square Peg” last season, had written only his playlet, “The Clod.” Susan Glaspell was as well known as a novelist as she was for her skit,

Irene Bordoni, in breath-taking gowns from Paris (the one shown is from Patou), gives a decidedly French ac- cent to “Little Miss Bluebeard,” a musical farce by Avery Hopwood “Suppressed Desires,” and her dramas, “Bernice” and “The Verge,” were unproduced. Zona Gale. too, had only a one-act play on her record: now she is the dramatist of “Lulu Bett” and of two plays which Brock Pemberton is to mount. Zoé Akins was on the book-shelves with “Papa,” but “Déclassée” and “Daddy’s Gone A-Hunting” were still unwritten. Gilbert Emery’s “The Hero,” as well as “Tarnish,” were unknown four years ago. George S. Kaufman and Marc Con- nelly were newspaper men. Philip Barry, the author of “You and J,” was still at Harvard, studying with Professor Baker. George Kelly, satirist of “The Torch Bearers,” was in vaude- ville. Arthur Richman was at work on “Not So Long Ago,” but the Shuberts had not yet altered the time of the play from the ’nineties to the ’seventies, and, of course. “Ambush” and “The Awful Truth” were unwritten. The mad tea-party of “The March Hares” had not yet been conceived by Harry Wagstaff Gribble. Salisbury Field had appeared as a collaborator, but his “Wedding Bells” and “Zander the Great”

VOGUE NEE |

fresh and De alent ppears <Qmnon The New Dramatists

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were unknown. Gilda Varesi had doubtless written three or four versions of “Enter Madame,” for it is one of those plays that, like “Lightnin’,” bear marks of long treasuring: but she had not yet found Dolly Byrne as a collaborator. Porter Emerson Browne had written a lot of dreary melodrama, but he had not yet shown the knack for satiric comedy which appeared in “The Bad Man.” Frank Craven was down on the records as the author of an observant little comedy called “Too Many Cooks,” but nobody thought he had more than one play in him. The fact that neither “Sun Up” nor “In Love with Love” has been printed saves me from having to decide whether Lula Vollmer and Vin- cent Lawrence belong in the list. But I do know that their plays have fresh and satisfactory qualities. “IN LOVE WITH LOVE” The fact that “In Love with Love” has been tried out on the road by a number of manage- ments strengthens the impression that the di- rector, Robert Milton, is responsible for a good deal of the success of this amusing and ingratiat- ing comedy. Milton is always a smooth and plausible manipulator of stage business. His people are more natural than most. They never seem to have trouble with furniture. Much

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MLL

October 1 a My iy, Cy ny, (Right) In addition to be- ing the favourite actress of a large part of the popula- tion of Paris, Yvonne Prin- temps is the wife of Sacha Guitry and the daughter-in- law of Lucien, perhaps the two most popular drama- tist-actors on the French stage. The Selwyns have promised that the trio will appear in New York dur- ing the present season Giddy, Mp “ily Yl ll We Villy, LLL y S N \ enn ES

dele cccecceddddeeccdeeceeeeeecceeedceeeececddceaeeeeeeeeeeea ‘Ny "Leis we: (MMR I Florence Vandamm, London OM QQS ay

New-Y ear’s Eve and the Selwyns bring Gertrude Laurence, English comédienne, to New York in André Charlot’s “1924 London Revue”—something, it is said, very English and very different more important, they usually manage to convey subtleties of emotion by shadings in emphasis and neat alterations in tempo. Milton is also a good chooser of players. In this piece, he has an actor and an actress who are not only more skilful than most in their profession, but who are also extremely well suited to their parts. One is Lynn Fontanne, who played Dulcy in the Kaufman-Connelly satire. She still has trouble with her hard English vowels; she pro- nounces “cross” as if it were spelled “crahs.” But she is an exceedingly good comédienne who manages to look somewhat sinister and a little vacuous at the same time—a deadly combina- tion. In Vincent Lawrence’s comedy, she plays another of those light-brained young ladies who are—as Nietzsche said of something else—human, all too human. It is a sign of the healthy growth of our theatre that we are beginning to tolerate, as heroines, girls who are not at all heroic. Miss Fontanne acts this sort of person quite as well as does that other actress from England, Estelle Winwood. In this part, she would outdo Miss

Mb ddd Vd Zi Yl dl dcedddcdddddddddldde MMe dda LEE ¥ Se Florence Vandamm, ~~ j Ba sis awe ra, N < Nickolas Muray The beauty and talent of Julia Hoyt are at present part of Stuart Walker’s repertory company, which is doing so much to promote a rise of the drama, in Indianapolis N MMMM Yd)

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Maurice Goldberg The radiance of Violet Heming is the particular bright spot of an interesting cast in “But for the Grace of God,” a comedy satire on English society, by Frederick Lonsdale Winwood, I think, because she can make us like a young lady who engages herself to a typical Rotarian while she thinks she is in love with another and who ends by marrying a third young man who has been hanging around. Miss Fon- tanne has advanced since “Dulcy.” She can be almost as vacuous and far more engaging. With Miss Fontanne is Henry Hull. He is the cheerful playfellow whom the girl turns down for the vigorous and dominating ardour of the young business'man. His love scene with Miss Fontanne in the first act is beautifully handled. It has variety and intensity and always a boyish quality. Milton does a great deal for the scene by the positions he gives the players and the tempo to which he holds them. Hull is extraor- dinarily convincing. Ralph Morgan, who comes in as a pathetically ambitious young engineer and goes out as the bridegroom, is a little less plausible. His personality fits the part, and yet he seems Ralph Morgan far more than the other seems Henry Hull. Within the limits of his (Continued on page 112)

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Ear? eee 78 VOGUE FASHION SHOES FROM SLATER FANCIES SIMPLICITY IN FOOTGEAR Shoes Are Cut Higher, with Interlacing Strap Decorations Across The Instep; Clever Elastic Gorings Eliminate Fastenings on Some of The Newest Slippers; Patent Leather Holds Its Own for the Daytime plicity again dominates the mode in foot- wear. For, whether skirts follow the day- time rule, which makes them a little shorter this season than last (about ten inches from the ground), or descend lower for the afternoon, or brush the ankle for the evening, the shoes below them are uniformly less elaborate in cut than they have been recently. After the fanciful and variegated footgear which, for a short time last season, was so much in evidence, this new re- straint is most welcome. Only one type of intricate trimming survives to decorate the smart shoe for this season— namely, the intertwined strap, which appears on models both for day and evening wear. Street shoes show little change in shape, both vamps and walking heels remaining practically the same. The slimness of the foot is accented by allowing the decoration to follow an uninterrupted line from heel to toe, instead of breaking it and fat- tening the appearance of the foot by cutting into the leather. Heels for evening wear will be very high and slender, and toes will be medium round. AY Vogue predicted six months ago, sim- SLIPPERS ARE CUT HIGHER There is a tendency to show, for street wear, shoes that come well up over the instep; in fact, the general outline of the Oxford is replacing the very much cut-out sandal effect. This mention of the Oxford does not mean that the Oxford is in vogue, except in several sports types—it does mean that the straps are higher than formerly. The prevailing type of shoe for daytime wear is one that has cleverly placed gorings, so that the foot may be slipped into the shoe without thought of laces, buttons, or complicated strap openings. Naturally, a great deal of clever designing is necessary to develop a fairly high slipper which needs no fastening. The foremost creators of shoe styles have treated the problem in dif- ferent ways. Some use side goring; others place the goring in the centre front over the instep and disguise it by a contrasting leather cover- ing in a decorative form or by a small buckle. The buckle is used for the afternoon shoe, the leather trimming for street types. The gored slipper i is suitable for rather formal daytime oc- casions and is usually developed in patent leather or in a light coloured cocoa or grey suéde. The newest heel for this shoe is a very high, slender one of the Spanish type. This Spanish heel some- what resembles the French heel, although it lacks the pronounced curves to which we have become accustomed. It is, moreover, much higher and tapers to an even smaller walking base. The regu- lation French heel is also seen on this type of shoe and is preferred by the woman whose con- servative taste rejects the high Spanish heels as rather too much like stilts. The suéde street shoe is assuming new and unusual importance, particularly in brown shades, for Paris has newly voiced its approval of brown for the winter. It appears in autumn brown, in a dark brown that harmonizes with the tortoise- shell and cocoa shades, and in “log cabin”— a fawn colour—, as well as in the lighter cocoa- brown shade. Often a narrow banding of glazed kid, in a lighter shade, is used to trim a fawn coloured suéde shoe, and black patent leather trimming is similarly used on autumn brown suéde. It is noteworthy that, this season, when a suéde shoe is trimmed, the decoration is almost always in a lighter shade than the shoe. As has been said, the intertwined straps are the trimmings most in use, appearing on the sides and instep in more or less elaborate renditions. The high Cuban heel is shown on the plainer suéde shoes, the Spanish or French heel on the more trimmed types of footwear. PATENT LEATHER FOR STREET WEAR For the street costume, patent leather still re- mains the favourite. It fashions an interesting pump, made with a high Cuban or French heel, a rounded toe, and either a tiny tongue or a medium-size steel or bronze buckle. This type of pump is developed in a new, soft, dull brown and black leather—sometimes an exact replica of the patent leather ones, save for the black enamel buckle with a tiny silver line; sometimes with a restrained decoration of interlaced straps fr semiformal occasions. Another interesting departure in the mode of footwear is noted in slippers of glazed kid. a soft leather with a somewhat shiny finish that comes in a wide range of smart brown shades. The distinctive note in evening slippers for the new season is the combination of gold or silver brocade with kid to match. There is a very

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{ A October 1 (Right) Patent leather slippers with interlacing straps piped in white with button fastenings are. very smart; Cammeyer (Below) Black patent leather still remains in the forefront of the street mode. These youthful slip- pers have grey pipings and narrow grey leather. straps that are ef- fectively secured by buttons to match; I. Miller \ .\ (Below) Shoes that dance to the pip- ings of fashion may be (left to right) of silver brocade with silver kid cut- out decorations; Hanan; of silver bro- cade with silver kid heels and straps held by a rhinestone buckle; Cam- meyer; of black patent leather for men; Martin and Martin; or of black and gold brocade with gold kid trimming; I. Miller; Onyx stockings N Wynn Richards ee a, Seen ne RE (Below) The high, slender heel characteristic of this season: for formal afternoon wear appears in grey kid on a grey suéde shoe with straps secured over the in- step by a cut steel buckle; Cam- meyer; Onyx stockings SAS ws 79 armen eee eee

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nett ant anger Sere era 80 Recent modes smile on a combination of gold and white brocade with a gold kid tongue and high, slender heel; Henning. Side gorings facilitate entrance to a black patent leather walking shoe of graceful cut; Hanan real reason for this, as there is for a great num- ber of styles, though tradition insists that fash- ions and common sense are poles apart. Decora- tions make up an important phase of the mode in footwear, and the narrow, laced straps of this season must be perfectly executed. It is impos- sible to achieve these intricate bandings in bro- cade, because of its rigidity, so soft kid is used instead. The body of the shoe is of metal brocade in a small design. The decoration is done in silver or gold kid, and often the heel is of kid. Some slip- pers are so cut that the straps meet over the instep, and, for these, there are round or oblong ornaments of rhine- stones, the stones elaborately set in a rosette design. There is decided absence of colour in the new evening footwear, as compared with the gaudy brocades of last season. Oc- casionally, one sees a smart combination of black and gold brocade and gold kid, but never anything more elaborate than this. Hand-made evening slippers for the most formal evening wear are executed in very lovely brocades, notably | those made in India. These } have richly coloured grounds. so well covered with gold-leaf designs in Indian patterns that they barely show the back- ground of colour. Nearly every shop in New |} York now has a twenty-four hour dyeing service, so that | satin slippers can be coloured | to harmonize with any gown. | Since this is true, the two or | three models shown in gatin are always in white. so that +——— Wynn Richards they may be dyed to order. Both smart and practical for evening are brown satin slippers with nude coloured stockings. Copper is one of the favourite shades for evening gowns, and these brown satin slippers are especially good with a copper coloured gown. In the evolution of the mode, which has re- tained certain things dainty and smart in effect while rejecting the bizarre in colour and cut, shoe styles are now so stabilized that it is possible to select one model and wear it, in different leathers, for all occasions. Most of the smart boot shops, in fact, make a feature of this, copying two or three of their best models in patent leather, in suéde, and in glazed kid, for daytime wear; in satin and in silver and gold brocade, for evening. The interesting details in the new sports shoes are the soles of crépe rubber, very light-weight soles with a pebbled surface that prevents slip- ping. Strap pumps are shown for golf, but it must be said that while these are quite smart, the Oxford, in that it does not allow sand to get inside, is more practical. For the golfer who likes to wear a little heel, there are smart shoes in cinnamon or grey suéde, with fringed tongue and perforated tip. These are less workmanlike in appearance than the flat-heeled leather Ox- ford and are well chosen for wear with knitted costumes. For the Southern season, white buck- skin Oxfords are shown with a leather decoration in saddle effect. THE STOCKINGS OF AUTUMN With black shoes, a sheer stocking in noisette colour, plain or with a Paris clock, is most cor- rect. Light tan and grey shades, with a pinkish cast, are also in good style, while Paris advocates a somewhat lighter shade called banana. For brown shoes, stockings of harmonizing, but lighter shade are worn. It is in excellent taste to choose these to match the gloves. Black stockings, ex- cept for mourning, are practically extinct, though a few women of ultraconservative taste continue VOGUE A white brocade evening slipper re- jects kid for satin in heel and strap decoration; Cammeyer. An interest- ing strap treatment of duil gold kid ornaments the front of this black brocade slipper; from Henning (Below) Suéde shoes with brown leather trimmings slightly darker and a buckled strap are the best sporting proposition to-day. They are worn with brown and beige mixed wool stockings. Riding-boots of brown leather owe their flexibility to lacings over the instep; Slater to affect very sheer black stockings. The stock- ing with pointed heel is particularly becoming, since its sloping lines tend to emphasize the slender ankle. This may be had in a very sheer quality, in flesh colour and in the other smart shades already mentioned. Paris has recently declared itself in favour of nude stockings worn with the brown slippers mentioned before, and with dresses of practically any colour, for almost every occa- CCT] ~~ sion. This vogue has the mer- it of being both chic and practical. For evening, nude colour is best with black or brown slip- pers and peach colour with gold or silver. The small openwork clock is especially appropriate for evening, for its lacy appearance is well in ac- cord with the extreme dainti- ness of the evening slipper. A recent invention of a clev- er woman, just placed on the market by a New York hosiery maker, will be welcomed as a great boon to women living where the winters are severe. This is an invisible flesh col- oured spat of the finest merino worsted to be worn under the sheer stocking. The spat is cut to cover the top of the foot, while three little straps of fine linen tape go un- der the foot and serve to hold it in place. It reaches al- most to the knee and comes in small. medium, and large sizes. Wintry breezes and aching ankles are a vivid mem- ; ory to most women. so this } invention will prove an enor- mous comfort, for it is both beneficial and invisible. re

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October 1 Wynn Richards (Left to right) Small wonder the mode takes to its heels of Spanish inspiration, appearing as they do on shoes of black patent leather with interlacing straps; of silver brocade with the favoured silver kid heels and bands secured by an elaborate rhinestone and silver cloth ornament; of black patent leather with lat- ticework designs buttoned over the instep; or of brown satin trimmed with narrow satin bands, cut-out sides, and a cut bronze buckle surrounded by pleated satin ribbon; shoes from Cammeyer (Below, follow curve) A cut steel buckle adorns a dull leather pump; Martin and Martin. Interlacing straps of glazed dark brown kid are the most elab- orate trimmings permitted brown suéde shoes; Cammeyer. Slender feet rejoice in black moire trimmed with patent leather; Henning Putting on the slipper is facilitated by side gor- ings in a patent leather shoe with openwork trim- ming; I. Miller. Glazed kid straps have designs on autumn brown suede; Henning. A bronze buckle makes a patent leather street pump suit- able for smart brown frocks; Hanan 81

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Long of sleeve, straight of line, and with hem-line eight inches from the floor, this charmeen frock with broadtail trimming is very much of the present. It 1: provided with a coat, which ap- pears sketched at the right PARIS BIDS MODELS FROM A coat without a single curve is this one of charmeen that begins and ends in broadtail. Grey inserts trim the coat as well as the straight, one-piece dress at the left, which was espe- cially designed to wear beneath it THE HICKSON The two circular tiers that trim the coat of this suit are so cleverly arranged that they do not interfere with the straight silhouette. Black vellona and opossum fur are the very attrac- tive stuffs of which it is made SILHOUETTE GO VOGUE Green is a favourite colour this autumn. Green juina cloth is used for this suit, which 1s ad- mirable for morning or walking service. The lapped-over skirt gives both the straight silhou- ette and freedom of movement STRAIGHT

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October 1 The fashion for figures produced this coat of caracal cloth trim- med with kit fox and worn over a frock of the same material. The chemise dress is quite straight in line and has a pat- ent leather belt; from Altman 's &o VERY Equal parts of smartness are contributed to a suit by a plain velvet frock that is very straight and by a short flaring velvet coat with tapestry embroidery. The fur that links them together is soft grey fox; from Gidding The claims to smartness held just now by the three-quarter coat are admirably set forth by one of black oriona and fox trim- ming. The very popular circular flounce appears on the dress un- derneath; from Lord and Taylor One can scarcely tell—certainly not from the silhouette—where the coat ends and the skirt be- gins in this suit of juina cloth embroidered in self-colour. The wide collar and cuffs are made of natural lynx; from Altman PLAIN THAT.COATS ARE FIGURED

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A ee EO ST Postmen — — 2 RRR UNT! 84 For first mourning is this dignified coat-dress with straight lines, revers of English crape, and a small conventional crape hat and veil Mé© @ee & Suitable for second mourning is a full- length, straight-line coat of duvetine trimmed with ermine and bands of dull black braid ; oN M 2» ~Y R Na VOGUE The high neck-line and long sleeves of a 4 youthjul crépe de Chine mourning frock are softened by a deep collar and cuffs of white English crape N G Distinction and Correctness in Even the Most Minute Detail Are Essentials of the Mourning Wardrobe T OW that all the world is going in black, it is even more important than it has been in the past for a woman in mourning to be correct in all the details of her appearance, so that she may be readily distinguished from those who are wearing black simply because it is the fashion. Black clothes and accessories are now obtainable in such variety that careful choos- ing founded on reliable knowledge is essential if the special character of mourning is to be pre- served. Surely, at no time should a woman dress with less pretension and, at the same time, with more quiet distinction than during the period of mourning. Above all, she should avoid what will make her conspicuous. Instead of describing in detail in this article each part of the wardrobe of mourning, Vogue tries in the careful choice of its illustrations to show by example rather than precept wherein lies distinction in mourning apparel. If one is in FROCKS FROM T. M. AND J. M. FOX HATS AND ACCESSORIES FROM ARTHUR MULLEN doubt about the length of sleeves or the lines of a frock or its trimming, these sketches will settle such difficulties, for they illustrate the choice prescribed by good taste inside the lee- way of what is correct. The woman in mourning must avoid all fads, such as fancy gauntlet gloves and fancy shoes, all jewellery save pearls, the engagement and the wedding rings, and dull black pins and beads, and all materials with a shiny finish, velvet, and moire. Patent leather shoes and too thin or fancy stockings are also to be avoided. Materials which may be worn are the twills, rep, serge. duvetine, and velours. Silks for day and in- formal evening wear include the dull crépes and satins, taffetas, georgette. crépe roma, chiffon. marquisette, voile, and: silk nets. Black shoes should be of dull kid, suéde, or a dull satin made especially for mourning observance. Baby lamb and black fox are the furs especially associated with mourning, but sable coats have always been worn by women who already possessed them. Homespuns and jersey are correct for coun- try wear and for sports. White may be a part of the sports costume of a woman in deep mourning; for example, a pure white blouse with a black jersey suit or a white skirt with a black sweater. Checked and striped combina- tions are to be avoided, however, as there is nothing less in keeping with the spirit of mourn- ing observance. The riding-habit may be Ox- ford grey, or even of covert-cloth with a black band on the arm. Such a band may also be used on a sports top-coat. All-white mourning is correct for the house and is frequently worn out of consideration for the members of one’s immediate family, who may object to unremitting black. But this mourning must be dead white, not cream nor (Continued on page 106)

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October 1 (Right) A white dinner- dress, simple yet distingué, is of heavy flat crépe. All the bands may be of the material or of white English crape. All-white is correct mourning for house wear A conve georgette organdie, cut practical and (Left) A serge or homespun suit is here worn with a blouse of dull crépe and a small duve- tine hat, cloche in shape, orna- mented with a pin of dull jet bonnet suitable for the young widow may have a bride o} white crape nttonal mourning Collar and cuffs of white simply, are becoming mourning accessories (Right) For sister or daughter im mourning is a crépe maro- cain dress with bias folds and a dull buckle. The hat is of felt, the veil of georgette 85 (Left) An evening gown in the best possible taste for one in mourning is of white crépe chiffon with a dull white beaded ornament for solitary trimming and for focus point of drapery

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Se 86 in the S H O P S Note—On these two pages are presented some very smart new models from the New York shops. Read- ers who are unable to find these or similar models in local shops may purchase through Vogue Shop- ping Service, 19 West 44th Street, by sending money order, certified cheque, or cheque on a New York bank. A slight fee to cover the expense of this service is included in the prices published A youthful flat crépe dress has a plain back and pleated ruffled front; black, brown, navy blue, almond green, and other colours to order; all sizes; $65.50. Rolande inspired a satin-faced crépe gown (right) in brown or black sci green touches in the girdle; also in Lanvin green, rose, or sapphire; size 36 to 44; $95. 50 VOGUE A smart charmeen coat-dress has slight draping at the left side In black trimmed with black or white cording or in brown with tan cord- ing; sizes, 36 to 44; $99 HE problem of whether to purchase a suit or a long coat and a dress depends as much upon what is left of last year’s ward- robe as upon the consideration of smartness. So far as smartness goes, honours are even. Both short and three-quarter length jackets worn with narrow, rather short skirts are good; the only rigid demand of the mode is for the slim silhou- ette. The drawback to this sort of costume—the difficulty of finding suitable blouses to accom- pany it—has been largely eliminated by the so- called three-piece suit. This three-piece suit con- sists of a coat and a dress with a skirt to match the coat and a bodice of crépe, satin, silver cloth. or. occasionally, a brilliant plain or bro- caded silk. A distinctive version of this type of costume appears on the second figure on the opposite page. The three-quarter length coat and the high, soft collar of the fulgurant satin overblouse are novel features. In a soft, yellow juina cloth with black lines and a black satin blouse, it is particularly effective. Such a costume is inevitably limited to day- time occasions of an informal nature. The mode of the dress and the long coat is more versatile. since the wrap may conceal either an informal frock that may be worn separately on the street in warm weather or a more elaborate gown for afternoon or for evening. These coats are usu- ally straight, unbelted, and trimmed with deep fur collars. Interesting examples are shown on the opposite page. The dresses beneath continue very simple-in line, although flounces and pleated ruffles, applied most frequently in the front, are firmly entrenched in the winter mode.

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October 1 Sox cara & S % i 4 3 % en {ih (Left to right) Beaver fur and bias bands of the material trim a long gerona coat in black, navy, malay, coffee, or tampa; sizes, 14 to 20 and 36 to 42; $185.50. An imported Rodier plain or plaid fabric makes a suit which has a Viatka squir- rel trimming, a wrap-around skirt, and a@ satin, silk, or brocade overblouse; in size 18 only; other sizes to order; $245.50. A squirrel collar and pocket trim- ming dignify a straight two-piece suit of vellona in black, navy, or brown; 14 to 20; $59.50. A tubular valicia cloth coat with a fox or squirrel collar and cuffs comes in black, navy, and brown; all sizes; $95.50

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VOGUE ASS ma ew) Ye, BOBS, BRAIDS, AND CURLS POR LITIELE GikLS HE smart hair arrangement, for children as well as for grownups, is often the sim- plest one and, this season, is more than ever inclined to follow the shape of the head. Mothers should bear in mind, however, that this, like every other phase of fashion, allows for dis- tinctive variations to suit every individual. The crinoline miss should not be subjected to tomboy pigtails, and it is a waste of time and energy to create even temporary ringlets for the restless young athlete. On this page is shown a variety of coiffures: straight-cut locks for the boyish little girl, with a discreet back view showing the correct length of the bob, and numerous uses of ribbon bands— black velvet for blondes, silver or taffeta ribbons for evening, and a novel crocheted silk Juliet cap to keep flying locks in order during the daytime. A coil over each ear or a long braid wrapped about a demure head gives it the popular close, well-shaped look, and either style is admirably suited to the quaint Little Miss Muffet type.

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October 1 ‘“ Mt Ax argh qT Wo a Neg 5 \\ =A) wee MiB CHIC MODES TO COMPLETE ° ‘ | SCHOOL WARDROBES HE most exacting demands made upon fashion are undoubtedly those of the school- girl. Perhaps the most vital item, to this exacting personage, is the fur coat which will lend a final. touch of perfection to the hoped-for attendance at a football game. This season, the smartest coats are of baby leopard, slender in line and collared with natural black racoon fur, like that from Bergdorf Goodman, shown at the lower left. Facing it is a dark grey suéde jacket, im- ported from England by Franklin Simon, and an accompanying felt hat for campus wear. The re- vival of the youthful tam in Paris is made doubly delightful by the sectional cut and the ribbon cockade decoration (upper left). This felt tam and the waistcoat opposite. checkered in brown, white, and tan, are from Franklin Simon. Best also contributes an amusing umbrella of Turkey red cotton to lend colour to the autumn costume, and a hat with a scarf to match in interesting colour combinations: henna with yellow flowers. deep green with a lighter green, and dull red with mauve. |

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Note — Sketches showing the back views of these mod- els will be found on Frock No. 7332 (Left) This black satin dinner-frock has a three- tiered skirt caught into gathered godets at the side and *a_ Sleeveless bodice cascading into — graceful folds at the left shoulder; sizes 34 to 40 co [ | page 104 VOGUE DESIGNS for the SEAMSTRESS Frock No. 7329 (Right) A dark satin slip accentuates the filmy sojt- ness of an overlapping tunic and bodice with cape- sleeves, which is developed in goddess crépe. The hem- line may be straight or uneven; 34 to 42 Frock No. 7328 A garment of many possibilities is the one-piece jumper dress, here developed in satin Canton crépe and worn over a blouse made of the all-over embroidered net that borders the skirt; 34 to 40 Frock No. 7330 (Left) The new and fa- voured square neck-line appears on this one-piece frock of novelty Poiret, hav- ing drapery in godet effect at one side; sizes, 34 to 42 Frock No. 7331 (Right) In this crépe-back satin frock, slit to show the underslip, the fulness ts adjusted below the embroi- dery (No. 511) on both the blouse and skirt; 34 to 40 Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City. Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from the Vogue Pattern Patterns are priced at 65 cents for each waist, short coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pattern up to and including 12 years; $1 for one-piece frocks, long coats, and négligées

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October 1 91 os Frock No. 7327 The tiers of a charminette coat- frock are draped upward and caught under the tab effecting the surplice closing. Sleeves echo the mode for tiers; sizes, 34 to 42 Coat No. 7336 (Right) The new three-quar- ter length coat appears here in kasha duvetine with fur trim- mings. It is particularly chic with frock No. 7337; 34 to 42 THE COAT-DRESS AND THE THREE-PIECE SUIT SHARE HONOURS IN THE MODE (Top to bottom) A Canton crépe has a blistered, double-spot design; velva broché, silk embroidery and chenille-like tufts on silk georgette; (right) queen o’ crépe, blistered diamond pattern; (left) Penikees silk, a raised dull brocade design; each 40 inches wide Frock No. 7333 Applied trimming bands that fall free from wrist and hip- line finish the sleeves and sur- plice closing of a one-piece char- meen coat-dress; sizes, 34 to 42 Note—Sketches showing the back views of these models will be found on page 104 Frock No. 7337 (Left) Kasha duvetine and metal brocade make this frock, which becomes a three-piece suit with the addition of coat No. 7336; sizes, 34 to 42 Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from the Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City. Patterns are priced at 65 cents for each waist, short coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pattern up to and including 12 years; $1 for one-piece frocks, long coats, and négligées

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92 VOGUE NEW FABRICS MAKE NEW FROCKS FOR THE WARDROBE OF THE YOUNG GIRL Among the most attractive of the new fabrics are included (top) printed velvet, a knitted material with a gold, Copenhagen blue, and mauve silk design on a black velvet finish; (below) a flat crépe with moire markings; (left) a satin-faced Canton crépe of exceptional richness, and (right) printed chim-ring, which has a black silk ground covered with chenille-like tufts and an all-over Oriental design; all 40 inches wide Frock No. 7340 Flowing sleeves and an apron front of goddess crépe transmit an ethereal quality to the substan- tiality of a black satin frock, which is long-waisted and kimono- cut as to bodice; sizes, 16 to 20 Frock No. 7341 The circular flounces of this one piece frock of charmeen are achieved in an ingenious way, for the top flounce forms part of the overblouse and the lower one ‘s joined to a foundation; 16 to 20 Note —Sketches showing the back views of these models will be found on page 104 | Frock No. 7343 | Frock No. 7342 (Left) The chic of a novelty (Right) A very necessary require- ment of autumn days is a one- piece frock such as this of rep- cloth, made with a long-waisted bodice joining a one-piece, wrap- around skirt and having a net vestee, collar, and cuffs; 16 to 20 Poiret frock lies in the smart cartridge pleats that join the apron tunic to the long-waisted blouse, form the unusual cuffs, and provide a casing for a wide ribbon sash; 16 to 20 years Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from the Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City. Patterns are priced at 65 cents for each waist, short coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pattern up to and including 12 years; $1 for one-piece frocks, long coats, and négligées

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October 1 to Touch” You too.can have “A skin you love to touch” Are you dissatisfied— with your complexion? Do you long for a skin so fresh and radiant that no one can sec it and not admire it? Then begin now to make your skin what you want it to be. There is nothing fixed about your complexion; your skin is a living thing that constantly changes. Each day old skin dies and new takes its place. By giving this new skin the care it needs, you can actually make it over. You can free your complexion from faults that have troubled you for months, and even for years. You will find the right treatment— for your special type of skin in the booklet of famous skin treatments, “A Skin You Love to Touch,” which is wrapped around every cake of Woodbury’s Facial Soap. If your skin is too oily—if it is pale and sallow —if you are troubled with blackheads—with blemishes—with conspicuous nose pores— begin at once to use the special treatment that will overcome this trouble. Thousands of girls and women— by following these famous skin treatments, have built up a fresh, clear, beautiful com- plexion. You, too, can have the flawless skin you have always longed for, by giving it this special care. Get a cake of Woodbury’s today, at any drug store or toilet goods counter—see what an im- provement even a week or ten days of the right treatment will make in your complexion. The same qualities that give Woodbury’s its beneficial effect in overcoming common skin troubles make it ideal for regular toilet use. A 25 cent cake lasts a month or six weeks. Woodbury’s also comes in convenient 3-cake boxes. The Andrew Jergens Co. Three Woodbury skin preparations— guest size—for 10 cents THE ANDREW JERGENS CO., 1410 Spring Grove Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio. For the enclosed 10 cents—Please send me a miniature set of the Woodbury skin preparations, containing A trial size cake of Woodbury’s Facial Soap A sample tube of the new Woodbury’s Facial Cream A ‘sample box of Woodbury’s Facial Powder Together with the treatment booklet, ‘‘A Skin You Love to Touch.” If you live in Canada. address The Andrew Jergens Co., Limited, 1410 Sherbrooke St., Perth, Ont. nglish agents: H. C. Quelch & Co., 4 Ludgate Square, London, E. C4. eeeerere Cut out this coupon and send it to us ; today Copyright, 1923, by The Andrew Jergens Co. “A Skin You Love by Guy Hoff } j 4 s ;

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VOGUE 0

THREE NEW FROCKS FOR THE

YOUNG GIRL AND TWO BLOUSES

} ‘: | i | /, L/S | i j by A ' ' | | ue i | ? : y i | A | WS i S ie / | | | | = “s ol f | 0 ( re is i , : ia \ Note—Sketches showing the back views of these | BS models will be found on

| Frock No. 7344 (Right, above) A smart \ triple flounce skirt 1s a new note in a plaid cloth dress

with a fold of plain cloth at the side fastening. tiny roll collar of the plain fabric becomingly finishes the bateau neck-line; sizes, 16 to 20

Frock No. 7339 A cordaire twill trotteur frock em- broidered after motif No. 580 has a separate skirt with three box pleats in front; sizes, 14 to 20

page 104 (Left) An I1-inch silver cloth banding (top) has multicoloured wool embroi- dery; (left to right) navy Canton, silver thread de- signs; vella-vella, a 40-inch silk knitted fabric, appears in two patterns, looped and chenille

Frock No. 7338 Notched collar, surplice closing, and tailored trimming band give a smart appearance to an attractive one-piece coat-dress; sizes, 14 to 20

Patterns may be secured from any shop selling Vogue patterns, or by mail, postage prepaid, from the Vogue Pattern Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City. Patterns are priced at 65 cents for each waist, short coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pattern up to and including 12 years; $1 for one-piece frocks, long coats, and négligées

"JS - '> Po ao

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October 1 TRE shee SNe ale dias NUTS CHOCOLATE COVERED || A very special appeal to the taste of those who want the best nut meats the markets of the world afford, combined with chocolate of Whitman’s Super Extra Quality. There are no combination centers in this package—nothing Whole Nut Meats but nuts, whole nut meats thickly coated with delicious chocolate. Brazil We believe the kinds are assorted to appeal to most tastes. Filbert Clusters : Batis Weliat Ctieters We know that the package is a first favorite with many good Alesaenit Cliatids judges of fine confections, and its popularity has increased Peanut Clusters steadily for many years. Pecan Clusters Nuts Chocolate Covered is one of Whitman’s Quality Group of special candy assortments for discriminating lovers of sweets. This package has a special Hallowe’en wrapper for that holi- day. All Whitman’s chocolates are sold only by selected stores in every neighborhood that are chosen as agents for the sale of Whitman’s. Every agency receives frequent fresh supplies direct. Every package of Whitman’s is guaranteed to be fresh and to give complete satisfaction. STEPHEN F. WHITMAN & SON, Inc., Philadelphia, U. S. A. Also makers of Whitman’s Instantaneous Chocolate, Cocoa and Marshmallow Whip

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‘Yes — Hidden underneath is your lovely Youthful. Self ! You can have it all back again, that lissome slenderness that is a joy to the beholder!— for as surely as a sculptor uncovers the beauty in a piece of marble, so do I bring forth the hidden grace that is inherent in your own figure. My method (the only one of its kind in America) is based on scientific anatomical prin- ciples. It consists of Gland, Nerve and Muscle manipulation for face and body, reducing the excessive secretions which produce double chins, overdeveloped busts, and burdensome avoirdu- pois. My treatment is not exhausting but invigorating,— it is permanent and guaranteed to be harmless! It not only restores your youthful slenderness, but also gives you a new sense of well being—new enthusiasm —that Heaven-sent feeling of assured confidence that gives a new meaning to the joy of living! Are you anxious to be rid of those few extra pounds that obscure a graceful contour?—or the flabby muscles that keep you from appearing lithe and youthful? If you are, why not arrange a con- sultation? “e Marjorie DOr » aed q4 : ace ano Soun Dpecialiot 3 East 4+74St. Phone Murray Hill 0545 Th ‘ CR 3° Us NE Many mirrors and ample lighting facilities promote the efficiency of the dressing-table. The casement window background in the photograph above is used to good advantage; dressing-table from Miss Swift ON HER DRESSING-TABLE MONG the “enemies of women” is Old Sol, that benevolent tyrant, and, during the summer, he has his inning and runs up the scores against facial beauty with freckles, tan, and sunburn until it behooves us to look about for some method with which to offset his temporary triumphs. If you happen to be near New York, London, or Paris, Washington, Detroit, or San Francisco, Newport, Palm Beach, Atlantic City, or Southampton —you need go no farther. Fof, in each of these places, there is an establish- ment where the beauty of woman is fostered, protected, and defended, not only from the temporary havoc wrought by the summer sun, but from the far more serious menace that lies in the passing of years and the inevitable cares of living them. Scientific research and experiment are at the base of the methods of these establishments, and many, many are the women who owe to them much of their beauty and attractiveness. The constant extension of their activi- ties shows a wide appreciation by women of the vital help they afford in her efforts towards personal attractive- ness, and the clients of these estab- lishments are numbered in the tens of thousands. The treatment of the moment, directed against the results of exposure of the skin to the sun, is a special bleaching treatment. The usual skin treatments include bleaching of the skin, but this special treatment is directed against and has a very decided effect upon the accumu- lated freckles and sunburn of the past summer. It puts the skin back to what it should have been in the spring— with supreme indifference as to whether it actually was what it should have been or not! The first step in the treatment is a thorough cleansing of the face. Soft, wet pads of cotton are dipped in skin tonic and covered with cleansing cream. These are applied to the face with a consistently upward movement, as all the mechanics of these treatments are directed against the tendency of the face to sag. This skin tonic is priced at $1.10, $2.25, and $4 a bottle; $9.25 a half-gallon; and $15.50 a gallon. The cleansing cream, in small jars, is $1.25 and $2.25; in half-pound jars, $3.25; and, in pound jars, $6.25. After the face is thoroughly cleansed —which means after the skin has been freed from all trace of powder or other cosmetics, as well as the deposit of fine dust that exposure to the air makes inevitable—, a bleaching oint- ment is thickly applied. This prepa- ration, which is a very effective specific against brown spots, gives a slight stinging sensation. The face is gently massaged with soothing oil during the bleaching process. Enough of this ointment for twelve treatments costs $5.25. After a few minutes, the bleach is removed with a soft pad, and muscle oil is gently rubbed into the face, which is then cooled and refreshed by another application of the skin tonic. This special bleaching treatment is followed by the face treatment. Pore cream is applied to those parts of the face of which the pores are enlarged, followed by muscle oil and skin food, mixed in the hand. This muscle oil costs $1.25, $2.75, and $4.25 a jar. Pore cream may be bought in two sizes—at $1.25 and $2.75. The skin food, in small jars, is $1.25, $2, and $3; in half-pound jars, $4.50; and, in pound jars, $8.25. A light, patting massage is used in applying this soothing and strengthening mixture of muscle oil and skin food. Where the face is heavy in contour, this massage is applied with some force. In the case of a thin face, however, it is done very lightly. The object is to stimulate the circulation while the nourishing oil is being gently forced into the tissues. During the massage, the hands of the operator are cooled continuously by dipping the fingers in ice-water. After the mas- sage, the face is wiped with skin tonic and covered for a few moments with a cool pad of cotton saturated with wa- ter and skin tonic. After a few min- utes, the pad is removed and the face is wiped with an astringent lotion. This lotion can be had in two sizes, costing $2.50 and $4.25 a bottle. The effect of a bleaching treatment of this kind taken once a week is to remove all discoloration of the skin due to a summer’s exposure to sun and wind. Note — The Vogue Shopping Service, 19 West 44th Street, will be glad to make any of these purchases upon re- ceipt of a cheque for the amount in- volved, or it will furnish, upon request, the address of the place mentioned

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October 1 97 REL CORRE ART CR CAE A WESAMIABIWAg ej Y | DOBBS - 620 and 244 Fifth Avenue | 2 West Fiftieth Street cy YORK ~ PALM BEACH ~ SOUTHAMPTON Slér THAT is one ne.of DO ‘DODDS nowesli Oe by acolo fit il feather fancy Her DOBBS Coat ~td 0; is of rich Worumbo Lolly wil collar Sf? deep Fiil-Gow ~ Ger SMM isthe subllee ee enna altireo! Ct CZ oe we 6xclusive Representatives for DODDS TOWN-MADE Hats in many American (ities |

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98 Established Registered 1855 U.S. Pat. Off. Why don’t You shop on Fifth Avenue, too from McCutcheon’s New Catalogue? HETHER you live a hundred miles away —or several thousand—you can shop with perfect satisfaction at “The Greatest Treasure House of Linens in America.” Send for our new Fall able DECORATIVE LINENS—for every occasion; exquisitely hand- worked and embroidered, in Luncheon and Tea Sets, Center- pieces, and Refectory Cloths. and Winter Catalogue, and see the remark- values in McCutcheon’s latest offerings. TABLE LINENS—glori- ously rich and sturdy weaves of lustrous Satin Damask in many new and exclusive pat- terns. McCutcheon Comfortables, Pure Wool Blankets, Bed Linens and Linen Towels are always of superb quality and moderate price. AND MCCUTCHEON PURE LINEN HAND- KERCHIEFS are famous the country over. The new catalog shows hosts of beau- tiful designs, desirable for we as well as for one’s own andkerchief box. There are also choice selections of personal apparel, dainty Lingerie, Blouses, Redfern Corsets, Laces, Sweaters of Silk and Wool, and scores of other delightful personal accessories of distinctive smartness. Mail This Coupon Today James McCutcheon & Company, 345 Fifth Avenue, New York City Please send me a copy of your New Catalogue No. 18. Name Address | : C VOGUE E = UF Births Engagements—Continued | NEW YORK Harder.—In July, to Mr. and Mrs. Lewis F. Harder, a son. Luke.—On July 25, at Tyrone, Penn- sylvania, to Mr. and Mrs. David L. Luke, junior, a son. PHILADELPHIA Bartlett.—In July, to Mr. and Mrs. J. Kemp Bartlett, junior, a son, John Kemp Bartlett, fourth. Biddle.—On July 26, to Mr. and Mrs. Francis B. Biddle, a son. Colket.—On July 19, to Mr. and Mrs. Tristram Coffin Colket, second, a son, Tris- tram Coffin Colket, third. Forbes.—On July 24, to Mr. and Mrs. William Innes Forbes, a son, Charles Wright Forbes. Mayer.—On July 29, to Mr. and Mrs. Henry C. Mayer, junior, a son. Prime.—On July 29, to Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Coxe Prime, a son. Wallace.—On July 11, to Mr. and Mrs. James Macaulay Wallace, a son. Young.—On July 25, to Mr. and Mrs. Alan Reed Young, a son, Alan Reed Young, junior. Deaths NEW YORK Frothingham.—On July 28, at Princeton, New Jersey, Arthur Lincoln Frothingham, son of the late Arthur Lincoln Frothingham, of Boston, Massachusetts. Horner.—On August 4, at Greenwich, Connecticut, Townsend Horner, husband of Belva Dula Horner. Rhinelander.—On August 4, at New Rochelle, New York, Edith Sands Rhine- lander, wife of T. J. Oakley Rhinelander. Thompson.—On July 28, at Canandaigua, New York, Mary Clark Thompson, wife of Frederick Ferris Thompson. von Stumm.— At Murnau, Bavaria, Constance Hoyt von Stumm, wife of Baron Ferdinand von Stumm and daughter of the eee Martyn Hoyt, of Washington, BUFFALO Hefford.—On July 29, Harriet Whittaker Hefford, widow of Robert Rodman Hefford. PROVIDENCE Pearce.—On July 21, Edward Douglas Pearce, husband of Isabelle Seagrave Pearce. SAINT PAUL Williams.—On July 28, Kate Dousman Williams, daughter of the late J. F. A. Wil- liams. Engagements NEW YORK Henry-Gates.—Miss Frances Douglas Henry, daughter of Mrs. Douglas Henry, to Mr. Merrill Edwards Gates, son of the late Dr. Merrill Edwards Gates. Ruperti-Howells.— Miss Lilly W. Ruper- ti, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Justus Ruperti, to Mr. Henry C. Howells, son of the late Henry C. Howells. BOSTON Putnam-Mclver.—Miss Elizabeth C. Putnam, daughter of the late Dr. James Jack- son Putnam and Mrs. Putnam, to Dr. Mon- roe A. McIver, son of Mr. and Mrs. John M. Mclver, of Gulf, North Carolina. BUFFALO Jerauld-Taylor.—Miss Ruth Jerauld, daughter of Dr. Frederick N. C. Jerauld and Mrs. Jerauld, to Mr. Paul Huse Taylor, of Boston, Massachusetts, son of Mr. and Mrs. George H. Taylor. CINCINNATI Powell-Garvey.—Miss Natalie Pendleton Powell, daughter of Mrs. Nathan Powell, Mr. Clifford Garvey, of Chicago, Illinois. PHILADELPHIA Boyle-Worrell. — Miss Marguerite J. Boyle, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel A. Boyle, to Mr. Granville Worrell, son of Mrs. Granville Worrell, of Ardmore, Pennsylvania. Hart-Robbins. — Miss Eleanor Hart, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Howard | Hart, of Arrow Head Farm, Ambler, Penn- | daughter of Mr. sylvania, to Mr. George Appleton Robbins, son of Mr. and Mrs. George S. Robbins. Mitchell-Brock.—Miss Miidred Mitchell, and Mrs. Clarence Blair Mitchell, to Mr. John W. Brock, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. John W. Brock. Sloan-Wainwright.— Miss Eleanor Sloan, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Burrows Sloan, to Mr. Loudon Snowden Wainwright, son of Mr. Stuyvesant Wainwright, of New York. PHILADELPHIA Wilson-Darby.—Miss Marion Elizabeth Wilson, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Percy Hartshorne Wilson, of Devon, Pennsylvania, to Mr. Douglas Darby. SAN FRANCISCO Ames-Johnson.—Miss Frances Ames, daughter of Mrs. Harry Horsley Scott, to Mr. Gordon Johnson, son of Mrs. Frank S. Johnson. WASHINGTON, D. C Minot-Means.—Mrs. Constance Gardner Minot, daughter of the late Augustus Pea- body Gardner, to Mr. William G. Means, of Boston, Massachusetts. Weddings NEW YORK Boissevain-Carroll.—On August 30, Mr. John Magee Boissevain, son of Mr. G. Louis Boissevain and Mrs. A. Magee Boissevain, and Miss Estelle Braniff Carroll, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Carroll. Boyd-Kellogg.—On September 8, in St. Peter's Church, Monmouth Beach, New Jer- sey, Mr. John J. Boyd, son of Mrs. John J. Boyd, of South Orange, New Jersey, and Miss Barbara Kellogg, daughter of Mrs. John Prentice Kellogg. Brokaw-Booth.—On August 10, in Christ Episcopal Church, Greenwich, Connecticut. Mr. George Tuttle Brokaw and Miss Ann Clare Booth, daughter of Mrs. Albert E. Austin, of Sound Beach, Connecticut. Desmond-Curtis.—On August 16, Mr. Thomas C. Desmond and Miss Alice B. Cur- tis, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Lewis B. Curtis. Dickinson-Gilbert.—On September 8, Mr. Hunt Tilford Dickinson, son of Mrs. Thomas T. Gaunt, and Miss Betty Ward Gil- bert, daughter of Mrs. Cyril Dugmore. Harris-Baldwin.— In August, Mr. George Upham Harris, son of Mr. and Mrs. John F. Harris, and Miss Lucile Baldwin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. LeRoy W. Baldwin. Pell-Smith.—On August 6, at Greenwich, Connecticut, Mr. Hamilton Pell, son of the late George Pell, and Mrs. Helen Ludlow Smith, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Duncan MacDougall White. Swasey-Gardner.—On August 8, Mr. McNeal Swasey, son of Mrs. Irene Swasey, and Miss Kathryn Gardner, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Richard W. Gardner. Taylor-Colgate. — In September, Mr, Howard Canning Taylor, junior, son of Dr. Howard Canning Taylor and Mrs. Taylor, and Miss Caroline Bayard Colgate, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Sidney Colgate. Wheeler-Merck.—On September 15, Mr. Henry Wheeler, junior, of Boston, Mas- sachusetts, and Miss Olga Merck, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Merck. Young-Whitman.—On August 17, at Green Harbor, Massachusetts, Mr. Charles Jacob Young, son of Mr. and Mrs. Owen D. Young, and Miss Eleanor Whitman, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edmund Lee Whitman. BALTIMORE Mackall - de Marson.—In August, Mr. Colin Mackenzie Mackall and Mademoiselle Louise Marie de Marson, of Paris, France. PHILADELPHIA Baily-Shepler.—On July 18, Mr. William Lloyd Baily, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. William Lloyd Baily, of Ardmore, Pennsyl- vania, and Mrs. Sarah De Ment Shepler, of Chicago, Illinois. Scott-Montgomery.—On September 20, Mr. Edgar T. Scott, son of Mrs. Edgar Scott, and Miss Helen Hope Montgomery, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Robert L. Montgomery. Wagner-Conover.—On August 4, in Christ Episcopal Church, Greenwich, Con- necticut, Mr. John Wagner, junior, son of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel T. Wagner, and Miss Mar- jorie Conover, daughter of Mrs. S. I. Conover, of Greenwich, Connecticut. SAN FRANCISCO Buckingham-Stanyan.—On August 15, Dr. Henry Proctor Buckingham, son of Mrs. Aurelius E. Buckingham, and Miss Martha Anne Stanyan, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Hendee Stanyan. SAINT LOUIS McDonald-Block.—On July 24, Mr. John McDonald and Miss Margaret Block, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Harry L. Block. WASHINGTON, D. C. Gillmore-Graham.—On July 31, Mr. Stuart Hagner Gillmore and Miss Mary Carter Graham, daughter of Judge Samuel J. Graham.

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October Il SINGLE~- SIX It has to be a pretty good Yankee car that can overcome my initial prejudice; but when after doing that in short, it just does anything that it should, and does most things a good deal better than you would it contrives to fill me with an un- think possible. controllable lust for possession, then I can assure you it is something right out of the common rut. Mind you it is not one of these undergeared contraptions, for with- out any fuss or flurry it will do its modest seventy on the level, nor has it got a huge engine, yet it will do White Hill, Henley, with four up, at a minimum of twenty-five miles an hour. The Hindhead brings it down to about fifty-five! The Single-Six is, of course, not to be OS SV Foy The SingleSix Packard costs (in CPS England) something under ‘nine ot rey, hundred pounds, and is, in my => 2 \ NS CP humble opinion, as near being the laay) fl RAN (Xs fi & 7 T G We very best car in the world as makes SA no difference. This is heavy praise, QS I know, but it can't be helped—I must speak as I find. If I had leisure and one of these cars, I would like to drive it round Coventry and Birmingham and Manchester, and other places where motors are mostly made, and take British managing directors out for a run, just to show them, you understand. The plain fact is that this is a car in which I simply cannot finda fault. It is as docile as an angel, but goes like the very devil. It is supremely well sprung, it is uncannily silent, it is a miser on petrol, it steers no heavier than a wisp of cigarette smoke, it climbs like a chamois— confused with the Twin-Six. Yes, believe me, people, the six- cylinder Packard is a very wonder- ful car indeed. I wish it were made in this country, and I can’t for the life of me see why it shouldn’t be, though owing to the higher cost of raw material over here it would naturally come out more expensive. I heartily wish the Packard were British. It is easily amongst the first half- dozen best cars in the world, at a figure which has hitherto been associated with, comparatively speaking, mediocrity. —Reprinted from The Tatler, London, England; issue of April 11, 1923

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Here are exceptional values in Certainly you will consider quality first in importance when you purchase your supply of tablecloths, napkins, towels and luncheon sets for your home this Fall. A snow-white linen napkin or a soft guest towel with thirsty linen fibres often leaves a decided impression on the occasional visitor, and one must be sure that these little things are properly cared for. McGibbon linen has achieved a reputation for highest quality in almost a century of service to the best families. Our selection is notably large and includes pieces for every household use in many attractive patterns. Chrysanthemum Pattern Napkins—22 x 22 inches - - $10.'75 dozen ai 24x24 °°“ ae 2240 =* Tablecloths—2 yds. x 2 yds. - 9.00 each “ 2% “ x 2% “ . 11.25 “ Shamrock Pattern Napkins—22 x 22 inches - - $14.00 dozen “ 24 - 24 “ » ° 1'7.50 oe Tablecloths—2 yds. x 2 yds. - 12.00 each rT 4 2 “ xX 2% “ _ I 5.00 “ All mail orders will be given prompt attention and selections made as care- fully as if in person. Send for our new illustrated catalogue No. 72. M! Gibbon &C2 3 West 37tn Street--New York NEAR FIFTH AVENUE

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Om See en a a CS, POR THE ORLD war and social revolu- tions have made the household containing but one maid a ne- cessity which has become chic in the hands of a number of clever hostesses. Such a condition makes formal enter- taining difficult, but a substitution of the unusual for the conventional in menus can easily convert a dinner from a makeshift affair into a picturesque delight. In addition, simple and un- ostentatious meals are becoming daily smarter, and guests are turning from heavy and indigestible repasts to glori- fied “home cooking” with something very like relief. - Most American hostesses, however, make the mistake of trying to keep up appearances of former glories by commercial short cuts in the menu. Intricate dishes which require the per- sonal touch are prepared by indifferent hands and bottled by the thousand. The hostess should never be deceived by the fact that they are labelled “Mrs. Perkins’s Home Recipe” or “Aunt Samanthy’s Kitchen Secret,” for they have nothing of the home about them and their secret is usually a matter for suspicion rather than confidence. Bottled sauces or salad dressings should be carefully selected lest the menu have a manufactured taste. This is a sign of defeat which will be recog- nized as such by any intelligent guest, to the eternal discredit of the hostess. FAMILIAR FOOD GLORIFIED Soup is the first consideration, once the appetizer has been disposed of. Few women realize that one can make meat soup without meat. If one browns onions and carrots (with, possibly, some turnips and a tomato or two) in butter and then turns them into a vegetable soup, they will taste like rich meat stock and deceive almost any one into thinking that the conven- tional and expensive knuckle of veal or shin of beef have been included. The concentrated essence which is the vegetarian equivalent of bovril is a great aid to soups or sauces; and shoya, one of the mainstays of Japanese cook- ing, when used with discretion, pre- sents a subtle and exotic flavour, dif- ficult for the most inquisitive epicure to trace. It is strange that this excel- lent essence of the shoya-bean is not more used by Americans, for it can be bought at any Japanese supply house. A few drops of it in soup, sauces, or butter for frying is delicious. My secret for the satisfying but economical dinner is to begin with a soup of the kind described; any French peasant knows that, though the idea has fallen into disuse in this country. Another boon to the impoverished but hospitable hostess is the macaroni- spaghetti-noodles family. Here again, the American hostess lacks imagina- tion. She thinks of macaroni in terms of size, not shape, like so much lead piping; but, if an Italian grocer is available, macaroni can be bought in as many shapes as the crystals of snow- flakes. For some unaccountable reason, shapes taste differently, perhaps be- cause our visual reactions are more powerful than our gustatory ones. Macaroni, flat, cylindrical, or cut into flower-like forms, is capable of infinite variety. In its cylindrical form, it takes so long to eat that the guest, out of sheer exhaustion, thinks he has eaten more than he has, but, in case the hostess has scruples about taking such an unfair advantage, more com- pact forms may be used. After boil- ing, the macaroni should be put in a big casserole and mixed with any one of a number of appetizing ingredients. The tomato paste bought from an Italian grocer is delicious, and livers, chopped-up sweetbreads, even small

VOGUE HOSTESS pieces of mutton or veal combined with olives, tomatoes, cut-up hard- boiled eggs—almost anything in fact— left to blend in the oven with a little bit of soup stock will easily make the main dish of a dinner, provided one has an enormous amount, for it is so good that every one wants second help- ings. Such a dish, served after soup with a green vegetable, and a salad or dessert make an excellent and cheap dinner. In the vegetable kingdom, asparagus, string-beans, pease, and spinach come most readily to mind, while parsnips and turnips are less popula. Carrots, mixed half and half with green pease, rise in the social scale sufficiently to be most acceptable. Leeks, which the French call “the asparagus of the poor,” are so unknown in this country that one can get about twelve cents worth, boil them, and serve them like asparagus on toast with melted butter with such success that the guest is quite likely to say, “How perfectly delicious, what is it?” They have all the virtues and none of the vices of the onion. Cabbage is another vegetable for which the hostess ordinarily has to apologize. But a head of red cabbage, cooked until it is nearly done, then combined with some sliced apples— about one-third of an apple to two- thirds of the cabbage—and a glass of currant jelly, and cooked again till blended, is a dish which defies the most snobbish guest to experience any sen- sations but pleasant ones. This dish is especially delicious with roast goose, but there is no reason why it can not stand on its own merits alone. Red cabbage also makes the most excellent soup, flavoured with a dash of sour cream added at the last moment. Un- til the recent Russian invasion follow- ing the “Chauve-Souris,” this dish was practically unknown. Every one knows cooked cucumbers, but few people ever cook radishes, and, served with a cream sauce, they are good. Lettuce, also, can be cooked with the leaves separated like spinach or, if it is romaine, cooked whole and served with a brown sauce, French fashion. MEATS AND SALADS The maid of all work is unimagina- tive about meats, as well as vegetables, and refuses to look at anything but the best cuts. Her stews are so taste- less that one finally resigns oneself to roasts; but any stew, if it is made with sufficient vegetables and baked slowly in a casserole for a while afterwards, is transmuted and glorified. And slices of meat or bacon, grilled with a little Worcestershire sauce over them, make a dish fit for the gods. Worcestershire, which is said to include in its ingre- dients the shoya-bean and kitchen bouquet, is one of the bottled sauces which the hostess can use with every assurance of success. It can make of the simplest egg an exotic delight. In roasting mutton or beef, the pan and the meat should be rubbed with a slice of garlic before cooking. The subsequent enchanting flavour could not be recognized as garlic by the most fastidious guest. A salad bowl, also, may be rubbed with garlic before mix- ing the salad without disaster to ap- petite or good taste. Since salad can be made in the early afternoon and forgotten, it, therefore, plays a large part in the one-maid ménage. But what dreadful things are done to it! There is a wide-spread be- lief from the Atlantic to the Pacific that bananas and nuts turn family salad into party salad. On the contrary, bananas and nuts are things which (Continued on page 102)

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October 1 101 ” Tre FCARL “IN THE CORE OF ONE PEARL ALL THE SHADE AND THE SHINE OF THE SEA.” ROBERT BROWNING The pearl, that happiest of nature's accidents, knows it, and in her heart every woman longs is.easily the supreme jewel of the world. for pearls. No picture can show, no words describe its It was this that led us many years ago to strange, compelling appeal, but every woman make the pearl the object of our chief solicitude. BLACK+ STARR_.©& FROST JEWELERS FIFTH AVENUE CORNER FORTY-EIGHTH STREET NEW YORK

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other houses. Others are extremely close-fitting throughout their length and have hems richly decorated with fur or embroidery or, occasionally, ruching. Some are of velvet with velvet sleeves in contrasting colour. The colours most frequently combined in such dresses are old-rose and brown, red and black, and black and bright green. The little gargonne frock that is Jenny’s specialty has a bit more fulness this year, achieved by various adaptations of the circular flare. It is often trimmed with a long, bright coloured cord and tassel, encircling the neck and hanging to the knees, around the waist, or over one shoulder and knotted on the hip. There are a few models with skirts very full in front and a few following Egyp- tian lines. Details are extremely interesting. There are new sleeves, some puffed from below the shoulder to the elbow, some with a large puff just above the wrist, others banded with fur between the elbow and wrist and finished with a mousquetaire cuff. Some plain dresses elaborate the sleeves with em- broidery, or make them in a contrast- ing colour. The bateau neck-line is still much in evidence. Skirt lengths remain short for all dresses except the THE COLLECTION OF JENNY (Continued from page 49) The beautiful Atlantic Taper Twist Candle shown here is espe- cially adapted to the more formal decora- rOR . 3 f VOGUE formal evening gown. What waist- lines there are are placed at the top of the hips, but more models have none at all. An oddity is the dress opening up the back. The trimmings are fur, braids of all widths, many embroideries—often Chi- nese in pattern—, fringe used in wide rows on skirts and in narrow rows at the hem of straight dresses, and long coloured cords ending in tassels of fine beading. A novelty is the dress which has a beaded chiffon overdress, slit up the back instead of up the front, with finely beaded edges. While there is a great deal of black for daytime, colours, as a whole, are bright, and there are often more than one in a model. Embroidered straight dresses are constructed of thin mate- rials worn over a slip of another colour, or, perhaps, of gold. Several frocks have, at the neck, the effect of numer- ous layers of colour, for there are sometimes as many as four neck-lines, cut oval, and posed one over the other. Materials include a striking partiality for a heavy Ottoman silk made of arti- ficial silk and looking like an im- mensely wide tailor braid, printed vel- vet, rep, and, in fact, all the materials of the season. HOS TES S§ (Continued from page 100) tive uses. The Charm of ELL-CHOSEN candles in the reception hall—how stately they look! How they radiate the very warmth of your hospitality! And Fashion says, carry the charm of candles and candle-light into every room—living-room, dining-room, library, boudoir. Nothing has a more important part in the decorative appoint- ments of the modern home, nor better expresses the good taste of the home-maker. Candles, of course, should be changed fre- quently. Burn them. Atlantic Candles are made for lighting as well as decorative qualities. Each style is a masterpiece of the candle-maker’s skill. Shapes are correct, colorings deep-set, ma- terials pure, wicks self-consuming. No smoke! No odor! No flicker! No drip! Atlantic means quality. So for your protection Atlantic Candles, or their boxes, are distinctly labeled. Dealers have them in many desirable shapes and colors. “CANDLE GLOW,” an interesting and authoritative booklet prepared by us, offers many suggestions on candle styles, lighting and decoration. We will gladly mail you a copy. THE ATLANTIC REFINING CO., PHILADELPHIA CANDLES Candles and Candle-light ATLANTIC should be eaten only in their simplest forms. Most American salads err because they are not thoroughly mixed. Let- tuce ought to be mixed with its dress- ing at least a half-hour before eating, for limp lettuce is really better than crisp lettuce with French dressing. If one wants a good salad, one can not economize on olive-oil; olive-oil must be pure, and no substitute will do. The dry ingredients of dressing—pep- per, salt, and mustard—must be thor- oughly mixed, separately from the oil and vinegar. Curry-powder, used in- stead of mustard on an occasional salad, particularly on egg salad, will be liked by the discriminating guest. In mak- ing egg salad, the hard yolk should be mashed thoroughly into the dry in- gredients and the white part of the egg sprinkled over the salad after the lettuce has been dressed. Maids are inclined to be careless about such de- tails. Radishes, a great addition to al- most any salad, are rarely used, and few know that tomatoes and cucumbers taste infinitely better cut into squares instead of sliced. Green corn is good in a vegetable salad with French dress- ing. but one seldom sees it. Corn can be cooked in such a multi- tude of ways that it is strange that a corn-fed country like ours sees so few variations. There are many dishes we could borrow from Mexico or Argentina. If one has the wherewithal for Newburg sauce, corn 4 la Newburg in a chafing-dish is almost as good as lobster. And even cooked in a chafing- dish with nothing but melted butter, quantities of paprika applied until it is pink, and a dash of cream at the end, it is surprisingly different and delicious. A cold dessert is a great saving in the one-maid household. It helps the flustered cook to look more like the calm waitress throughou. the meal. But this does not necessarily mean ice- cream which, despite all that has been said and written to the contrary, can not be made without rich cream. Few people realize that an_ice-cold—not merely a cold—rice pudding is a tri- umphal dessert, and that cold, moulded rice with stewed, dried apricots or peaches or stewed strawberries is bet- ter than most ice-creams. Any two fruits combined with some sugar and whipped cream, mixed thoroughly, and served ice-cold is a refreshing morsel fit for the gods. The best combinations are raspberries and blackberries, cur- rants and raspberries, blackberries and sliced peaches—or your own experi- ments. It is just as well for a dinner- party of ten to limit oneself to this sort of thing and avoid the pancake or soufflé class of cookery. All com- fort and no strain should be the motto of the successful one-maid hostess. LORNA LINDSLEY.

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October 1 Unusually clear and beautiful are the sheer No. 309, black. and No. 310, in colors. ER hat and frock were Man- dalay brown. And her stock- ings exactly matched them— brown was his favorite color. She was so happy she wanted to sing as she started out. And then suddenly in one of those ab- solutely new stockings a hole appeared. And a run. It took ten minutes to disguise the catastrophe — and in that ten minutes she missed her train, for she was, alas, a commuter. So she arrived one hour late for their luncheon and her temper was ruffled, and so was his — And they quarrelled! Obviously those stockings were not Corticelli Silk Stockings ! You are quite safe from such tragedies when you put ona pair of Corticelli stock- ings. Nosudden “run” will bring confusion upon you when critical friends are about, no treacherous hole will cause amused er Stocking smiles to follow you through the restau- rant. A Corticelli stocking gives honest wear to the end. The reason is the silk itself. Corticell: sewing silk was famous all over the world years and years before its makers ever thought of silk stockings. Today they are making that same strong smooth lustrous silk into fine silk stockings. Corticelli silk stockings are exquisitely made in every detail. The heel is doubly sewn, toe, heel and garter top amply reinforced. The very sheer numbers will not, of course, give the service of the heavier weights but with reasonable care in wearing and washing they will sur- prise you with the service they give. There is every weight and color you want. Some favorite styles are: Chiffon, No. 307 black, 308 colors; sheer, No. 309 black, 310 colors; light weight, Nos. 314 and 316 black, 315 and 317 colors; medium weight, No. 320 black and 324 colors. The Corticelli Silk Company, 20 Nonotuck Street, Florence, Mass. Corticelli FIN E St LK HOSIE R-¥ g Lae 103 ~ Z » | The extra sheer chiffon stock- ing for formal occasions, in black No. 307, in colors No. 308. NEW HOSIERY STYLE BOOKLET “The Correct Color in Hosiery for Every Shoe and Occasion,” our new style booklet is now ready. We will be very glad to send it to you on request. It contains all the latest news about the colors and styles of hosiery for fall. And valuable points on the care of silk stockings. For your conven- ience there is a coupon below. - O Hosiery Booklet O Irene Castle Fashions 0 New Corticelli Silks Please send me, "free of cost, the booklets | have checked. The Corticelli Silk Co. 20 Nonotuck Street Florence, Mass.

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No. 306 No. 355 | Made-up Dress 5-Piece Set q 2to3 yr. Size one Center - Peach Color four Doilies Fine quality White Clover Voile Bleach $1.25 in U.S.A. 4 $1.50in U.S.A. ROYAL SY socieTy EMBROIDERY PACKAGE OUTFITS The articles above will give you an idea of the exceptional values and really beautiful articles you can buy in ROYAL SOCIETY EMBROID- ERY PACKAGE OUTFITS. The quality of materials is always of high standard. The wearing apparel, such as children’s dresses, ladies’ under- garments, etc., are made with extreme care. The stamped designs are dainty and artistic and every package is complete with the article to be embroidered, sufficient floss to finish the design, and instructions. Even if you do not know how to embroider, you will have no difficulty in following the chart of stitches which makes everything so simple. Decorative articles for the house, gift items, household linens, lingerie, baby clothes and novelties are procurable in Royal Society Packages. ILLUSTRATED CIRCULARS MAILED ON REQUEST The New Art Felt Scarf Crocheted with Royal Society Sweater Twist A new and beautiful rust color Felt Scarf No. 6103 sold by ROYAL SOCIETY dealers. It is of soft woolen Art Felt crocheted with lustrous Sweater Twist and complete crochet directions are attached to each stamped piece. It makes a handsome table runner and is also made in a pillow to match. Full description of this and other attractive designs, including Luncheon and Buffet Sets, Tea Squares, Centerpieces, Scarfs, Pillows, Sweaters, Undergarments, Lamp Shades, Edges, etc., are given in The New Royal Society Crochet Book No. 23 Price 10 cents in U.S. A.—Send for Copy ROYAL SOCIETY Products are sold by dealers everywhere 19 Union Sg. W. H.E. VERRAN CO., Inc. New York OTT MOT pe ase me THAN er eNT UA Ug |p UU ans VOGUE DESIGNS FOR THE SEAMSTRESS No. 7330 No. 7328 The frocks shown on page 90 look like this from the back, and they ulustrate admirably the rising tendency of the waist-line ai No. 7327 No. 7336 No. 7333 No. 7332 No. 7329 No. 7331 No. 7337 The front view of these garments may be found on page 91. Though they are very different in character, they all follow the straight silhouette of the season VY im 7 T hi a No, 7340 No. 7343 No. 7341 No. 7342 These four frocks are on view from the front on page 92. They are suitable for development in crépe or in the serges and twills 02 HOO ind No. 7334 No. 7339 No. 7338 No. 7344 No. 7334 No. 7335 These are the backs of the garments sketched on page 94. The over- blouse holds its place in the mode, and the tiered skirt shares place with the plain and always with some detail of work- manship to make them interesting. A novelty is the use of duvetine cut into squares and applied on crépe or satin to match, making a novel sort of plaid. Coats are either straight or flare at the sides or in front. They are fre- quently of patterned woollens in dark colours and are always fur trimmed. Some of the afternoon coats have full sleeves. Afternoon dresses, of moire, satin, or silk crépe, are softly full with plain backs. Many are embroidered, often in Chinese designs. The waist-line continues low, at the beginning of THE COLLECTION OF PREMET (Continued from page 46) the hip or lower. For evening, there are gowns with long, straight cuirass bodices coming half-way to the knees with fulness below, either in front only or all around. Sometimes, a_ ruffle runs up one side to a point at the hip, and, in one case, this ruffle is of embroidered gold net on a gown of velvet. Other models are very straight, of beaded, embroidered, or jetted ma- terial, opening up one side over a slip of another material with the opening emphasized by a soft bow on the hip. Velvet is more used for evening gowns by Premet than for any other type of costume.

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October 1 105 LCS PCL CO] Y C The idealizing touch of COTY Face Powder in- tensifies the beauty of every woman. Gach of the eight true shades accentuates that colouring so fascinating in blonde, brunette and red~ haired types. THREE SIZE BOXES — LARGE MEDIUM~-AND COMPACT AND IN ALL THE COTY PERFUME ODEURS; Address Dept. V-10 for “THE ART OF USING POWDER” a guide to the accentuation 9 fascinating types~sent on request oa ee 714. Fifth Fwenue, New York CANADA— 55 MSGill College Ave.,Montreal co 2 Re as = = == eal ( — i ' te I COPYRIGHT, 1923 BY COTY, INC.

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A A RY Ac deeNeee: 106 & harm thal endures IF IT be a fault that the garment made of Reads’ Fabrics “last too long,” we shall have to plead guilty of it. But we do so willingly. For the women whose tastes call for wor- steds as fine as Reads’ expect the ulti- mate in service as well as in fashion. They seek the Reads’ trademark in- side the garment or on the back of the goods purchased by the yard. It is their promise of a charm that endures. Looms: Philadelphia New York Paris 212 Fifth Avenue 101 Rue Réaumur Everything Fashionable in Fine Worsteds PHILADELPH!A Look for this trademark stamped inside of fabric MODES IN VOGUE A suitable accessory for a severe mourn- ing frock is a frilled collar of fine organ- die which fastens at the back under a small black bow MOURNING (Continued from page 84) grey, and no black is worn with it. White shoes are either of suéde or buckskin. | White mourning is also much used in the country in summer, and, in the tropics, it has practically superseded black. Wash fabrics are suitable for the all-white mourning; linens, batiste, voiles, and cotton crépes. Crépe de Chine, wash silks, chiffon, and georgette crépes are ap- propriate for the more formal occasions. Hats may be of crépe de Chine with or without crape trimming or a veil, or in white silks, fabrics, or straws. The same rules that apply to black mourning apply to white. The period of mourning for the widow is now usually one year, or eighteen months. The conventional length for the veil worn during this period is from 2% to 2% yards square, with a 9-inch hem. It may be of crape or georgette crépe. It is worn over the face only at the funeral and afterwards is draped back over the hat and worn with the conventional face veil, large octagonal mesh bordered with crape. The hat under the veil is the conventional mourning one—small and shading the eyes slightly. After the day of the funeral, a widow may add very plain sheer white organdie or white crape collar and cuffs to her gown. Second mourning and its length vary with the individual, and, sometimes, it is not adopted at all. It is more usu- ally observed by the older woman, who wears black and white, then the more sober greys and mauves over a period covering from six months to a year. Of course, even when no second mourn- ing is observed, a woman would not terminate her period of deep mourning by wearing immediately extremely bright and conspicuous colours. Mothers, daughters, and sisters usu- ally observe deep mourning for six months, and though they do not wear the crape veil or the widow’s severe hat, they should adhere closely to the rules prescribed for mourning apparel THE COLLECTION OF CHANEL (Continued from page 44) Chine, or even crépe georgette. They match the colour of the coat, and they are always softly full, with an effect of movement given at the hips and shoulders by floating panels. The coats are nearly always lined with the materials of the frock. Often, there is a cape effect extending to the waist- line in the back and a circular apron front. But it is undeniable that Chanel is accentuating the hips. Even in her tailleurs, she places a sort of folded section making a pocket to mark this point, and her frocks have innumerable ways of accentuating it—by pleated overlapping panels, tiers, bows, godets, and so forth. AFTERNOON TOILETTES Handsome afternoon toilettes are of dark velvet—often green velvet trimmed with brown fur. Fine pleat- ing is a favourite trimming for dresses. A new note is the use of short, full capes with velvet or cloth dresses, re- calling the cape collarette in vogue in the late ’nineties. This cape is bor- dered and collared with fur and is re- movable. There is one green velvet coat, trimmed with brown fur and gold braid, which is really a Louis XV. model. There are far fewer embroidered models than formerly, but there are some very handsome embroidered, fur- trimmed coats for wear with simple frocks, as well as a few embroidered evening coats. A new colour combination in em- broidery is beige and a red that is like that used by the early Italian painters and might be called “rouge Florentin.” This is done on black or very dark brown material, usually in conven- tional and geometric patterns. Evening dresses are, for the most part, simple in fabric and softly elab- orate in cut. They are of crépe geor- gette or crépe satin and give a float- ing, moving effect. More elaborate ones are embroidered, but far less so than they were. Some lace is used. The décolletage remains oval, and the skirts are short. One gown is com- posed of pale green chiffon with the new velvet lace in much darker green. Many are of chiffon, very ample, but flowing softly about the figure. Some have apron tunics in front and remov- able capes in back, both bordered with fur. There is often a knot of flowers on the shoulder. Materials include velvet, kasha, ratiné, wool jersey, crépe de Chine, crépe georgette, chiffon, and satin—the new shiny weaves, and crépe satin. Very little patterned material is shown. COLOURS AND DETAILS Black, black with brown, the very dark browns, and the dead leaf and dark drab shades, dark green and re- seda and a clear light green, a note of Florentine red combined with brown. grey, and beige, are the colours used for the daytime; light tones, pale rose, and faint yellow, for evening. The waist-line is low. There are charming novel details in neck-line, such as little turn-over collars open at the side or tied in front with soft bows. Many cape sleeves and many plain ones are shown. Fur trimmings are much used.

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October 1

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“Yesteuday f In 1100 B. C. the ornate war chariot of Tiglath Pileser I, king of Assyria and conqueror of Babylon, seemed the height of wheeled splendor and glory. But all the king’s horses and all the king’s men could not give him a fraction of the comfort and luxury built into modern coachwork by Wilson craftsmen. 3000 years of progress are visible— “Today ina motor car with Gilson sir Body Product of C. R. WILSON BODY COMPANY, Detroit and Bay City, Michigan

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- [-P. HOLLANDER COMPANY For Sewangy ‘ales 5 é ers to the Gunlewamen a ae: NEW YORK 552 Fifth Avenue 3OSTON Boylston Street and Park § Above a black marble Directoire mantel, a squared and cut mirror reflects two tall and solemn cats of Japanese crackle ware, 21 inches high; $100.50 a pair THE WELL-ORDERED MANTEL By RICHARD WALLACE HE fireplace with its mantel needs just two things to make it a success—a very few dollars and a great deal of discretion. ‘“Pur- veyors of good taste,” following the line of least resistance, possibly, use countless numbers of Chinese, Italian, or French jars, one at either end of some one’s mantel. That is the first thought; the next is candlesticks, one on either end of a shelf with something, usually a clock, in the middle. Then there are some people who are pos- sessed of the idea that a fire shelf is a shop-window or, at least, a show-case, and they never rest until it is crowded with all sorts of strange things. Most parlour-maids must end their lives in madhouses! When oné considers that the fire- place in many rooms in our modern American houses is the one bit of more or less interesting architectural expres- sion, it seems a pity to do more than try to retain its spirit. The serene beauty of gleaming white marble, sim- ply carved and constructed around the fireplace, can need but little to make it more beautiful. While the opposite to this, a Grinling Gibbons mantel, for example, with perhaps a handsomely carved overpiece of fruits and game, certainly could want for nothing, ex- cept possibly a fine, oid, mellow por- trait of an ancestor or near-ancestor, any number of which one can find in a thousand shons. with an ear-lobe or an eyebrow sufficiently like one’s dear great-great-great-aunt to establish a relationship proudly to be boasted of along with the mantel. SIMPLICITY AND HARMONY The quality of patience, together with a little good taste and much dis- cretion, is what any one about to arrange a mantel-shelf needs. Consider the early American mantel, with its simplification of the Georgian manner. In a quaint little colonial house in Bal- timore. milady’s withdrawing-room fire- place reaches quite close to the ceiling, within two feet. Below the shelf, there is a rather wide panel. Instead of decorating the shelf, a row of quaint oval and square silhouettes are hung on this oblong panel. And, because the walls of the room are whitewashed and need some colour, a long sampler has been found, into which some ador- ing mother’s little Ellie industriously worked, a long, long time ago, the semblance of a red schoolhouse sur- rounded by bluebirds, and that is hung over the mantel. Nothing is used on the shelf except a charming strip of Victorian needlework, its colours, like the sampler, repeating the colour har- mony of the room. THE CHARM OF STAFFORDSHIRE Another way to treat the colonial mantel is to use old Staffordshire pot- tery, One interesting example is a shelf with a round piece of Staffordshire in the centre. This particular orna- ment is very entertaining, for it pic- tures a garden surrounded by a brick wall, behind which is coiled a large green serpent that has wriggled its way into the branches of a tree standing in the middle of the garden. A very proper-looking lady and gentleman are seen standing by the tree, hemmed in by a flock of sheep grazing among buttercups. This delightfully fanciful group pigues one’s imagination, for the lady calmly clasps her fan, while the serpent seems about to devour the poor gentleman. There is not a sign of an apple. On the wall above the shelf, on each side of this colourful gro up, hang two oval papier-maché portraits of George Washington and his wife. The severe, classic lines of the Di- rectoire mantel in black marble lend themselves admirably to very simple treatment. Two tall, solemn, and mys- terious porcelain cats reflect themselves, in a most dignified fashion, in front of a plain. squared, and cut mirror, which is set in a moulding and studded with brass stars. These cats (in (Continued on page 110)

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T is Paderewski. He is pl thrill at the vivid portray the music, a tale of the Seat iless dev for their country, the ol The music ceases. There is a pause, and as a coat of brocade, h his tone-—A/s touch and dss tom And now he is gone and anotl Hofmann. He is playing a faithfully it is mirrored bY this performance.

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© Stein & Blaine “Perfection ni A Stein & Blaine Fur Coat Always smart — always individual Many new ideas have found expression in this distinctive coat of caracul—and quality and exquisite detail unite with them in attaining Perfection. Stein 2 Blaine Jurriers Dressmakers Jailors 13 and 15 West 57th Street New York | for these, which are nearly always trimmed with fur. Patterned fabrics are also used for them. Some of the simpler costumes have blouses which go under the skirts, such as we have not seen for a long time. Afternoon dresses are often of vel- vet, in lovely shades of soft grey-blue, old-green, or a sort of wine coloured mauve. They are named fv; the great painters, for their portrait-like quality is their greatest charm. Many are softly full, while those of satin or moire are extremely narrow and slen- der, with, perhaps, a soft circular frill running across the front of the skirt and up one side. Many have inter- esting details about them. Sometimes, the waist-lines are very low, with a sash effect tied on the hip; more often, they are suppressed altogether. Tassels THE COLLECTION OF WORTH (Continued from page 48) VOGUE are used as trimming on sashes or ac- cent the front of the corsage. One sapphire-blue velvet gown is refresh- ingly novel, for the plain long bodice. which extends to the knee, is pleated and edged with a band of sable with a soft frill below. On another model, an odd sleeve is laced up on the inside. The new note in the evening dress is the extremely long, slender line end- ing in a band of fur and broken on one side by a long, narrow panel ex- tending from the hip or by a soft bow placed rather low. Diamond studs used like buttons are a novel trimming for velvet evening gowns, placed at one side or down the side back. A pretty use of fur is seen on a long, narrow panel swinging from one shoulder Evening wraps are very ample with gracefully hanging sleeves. THE COLLECTION OF DOEUILLET (Continued from page 47) the hem of a straight coat or set on the dress beneath to give that impres- sion. Coat-dresses are very straight and occasionally completed by straight scarfs of the same material, encrusted with fur on one side, which leaves only a border of the woollen material, like a carriage rug. Afternoon dresses are soft in char- acter, of such materials as crépe de Chine, satin, moire, or velvet. They are simple in line, but much more elaborate in detail of cut than they appear. Some are very rich, of velvet and fur elaborated with embroidery. The long, fur-bordered tunic is often employed for them, sometimes straight, sometimes spreading out over a nar- rower underskirt, as in the sketch shown on page 47. The three-piece idea is employed for afternoon costumes, with three-quarter coats frequently cut with a slight godet flare from the shoulders in the back, in strong contrast to the tube-like silhouette favoured at other houses, but very effective never- theless. Evening dresses are of two charac- ters. The dinner-gown, which has had its skirt shortened, is of some such material as chiffon, metal or silk lace, or of velvet or satin embroidered in gold and colours. Some complication on the fronts of the skirts is invariable ) for this type. Then, there is the grande robe du soir, often of richly coloured velvet, very long and slender in line. with single or double train, starting from a point low in the back of the skirt and trailing a long way behind the wearer. Others have a sort of fringe embroidery of crystal or opaque glass beads used in looped fringes The most striking model of the evening collection is a perfectly straight gown in silver embroidered in Chinese blue silk and diamonds, with three evenly spaced rows of blue bead fringe scin- tillating with every movement of the skirt. THE WELL-ORDERED MANTEL (Continued from page 108) oyster-white or creamy beige Japanese crackle ware), seated so calmly erect, suggest both the entrancing Directoire period and the awe-inspiring grandeur of ancient Japan or Egypt. It is even possible to have one or more, as you like, of these lovely things prowling, pensively and proudly, about your home, for the Australian cat is exactly like one of these beautiful figures. There is one in a kennel at Greenwich. Its sleek grey fur is short and soft as moleskin, its head is long and slen- der, with pointed ears and pale, pale amber eyes. Its tail is very long, thin, and pointed. A fascinating creature, whose name should be some weird echo of the dark ages, but the mistress of the kennels calls it “Betsy.” The incongruity of it is laughable. unless one can imagine “Betsy” an abbrevia- tion for Bethsaida. Unlike the prac- tical Greenwich lady. the Chinese have built temples to their sacred cats. Using them on a mantel, one could place a rather low alabaster vase be- tween them and fill it with calla-lilies and fuchsia. Another way to treat the mantel in the Oriental gesture is to use statu- ettes of the eight immortals. On a much fluted Adam mantel of bleached wood, unpainted, these are really quite delightful. The French have made copies of the eight immortals, giving their faces quite comical expressions. These eight little people, in their bright- ly coloured robes and quaint positions, can be most inspiring, as well as deco- rative. Even a slight knowledge helps one cherish this queer array. It is Sum Liang who is very popular in China. She illustrates the advantage arising from mothers’ bringing up their sons properly. Sum Liang was a widow whose son, Son Loh, would not study. so each day he did not learn something. she cut with a knife the cloth she had woven that day. In time, this so im- pressed Son Loh that he set to work with a will and, in due course, became Prime Minister of China. Think what your mantel-shelf could be doing for posterity through your children! After all, how easy it is to get away from the obvious when you arrange your mantel. Why not pause and think of as many mantels as you can remember: then, by the process of elimination. arrange your mantel with a purpose? In striving to keep the fireplace simple and beautiful, one may heln any room to have a great deal of charm Qp 6)

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October 1 CTheir skin Rept young’: fresh --supple - - 111 --- season in and season out W hat is the Society Woman’s secret ? “ WOMAN'S complexion can be very nearly perfect. It should be smooth, supple and transparently fresh and it should not betray fatigue or the effects of weather.” This, if it were written, would be the society woman’s code. As proof of it, there is scarcely a woman of prominent social position whose age you can guess by any dull- ness of skin or lines. That does not mean she does not motor or take part in whatever sports are in season. She can be a zealous sportswoman by day and appear in the evening with delicate skin unmarred. Season in and season out her skin can be kept delicately fresh. It is beautiful with the suppleness of youth. lines. Of course it requires daily care to keep their skin in this perfect condition, And perhaps this is the only “secret” of the lovely cangiaden that most society women are known to possess. Their skin is never allowed for a moment to de- teriorate from neglect. How they accomplish it There are two fundamental needs of the skin that the society woman knows cannot be neglected without disaster—the kind of cleansing that frees her skin from the tenseness of the day’s strain and of the collected dust and oil and cosmetics, yet cannot possibly tighten or coarsen the skin— If she is perhaps growing older she does not show it by a dulled skin or premature If she is tired her face does not betray her. doors her skin is not roughened or reddened. What is her secret? and protection that renders her skin absolutely immune to every kind of strain and coarsening. These two essentials are the basis of the famous Pond’s Method through which so many lovely women keep their skin in just the fresh, beauti- fully supple condition that social usage requires. Pond’s perfected two creams, each entirely different, each exquisitely prepared for its par- ticular function—Pond’s Cold Cream not only cleanses exquisitely but actually restores the skin’s natural suppleness— Pond’s Vanishing Cream gives an instant beauty of smooth fresh skin un- der your rouge and powder and is so sure a pro- tection that no woman careful of her skin ever appears without it. Used together these two creams form the perfect care for women’s skin. Today not only However much she is out of the society woman but millions of other women are using this famous method to keep their skin young. Try this famous method Try giving your own complexion this ‘oe care it needs to keep it really autiful, See the improvement in your skin even in a very few days with this method. Do this tonight. With the finger tips apply Pond’s Cold Cream freely. The very fine oil in it softens your skin and penetrates every pore. Let it stay cn a minute—now wipe it off with a soft cloth. The black that comes off shows you how carefully this cream cleanses. Do this twice. Your skin looks fresh and is beauti- fully supple. Then in the morning, smooth on Pond’s Vanishing Cream over your whole face. Now if you wish, rouge—powder. How smooth and velvety your face feels to your hand. What a fresh and charming complexion smiles back from the mirror. The powder is even and smooth over this flawless base. The appearance of your skin and the compliments of your friends will prove to you how wonderful for your skin these Two Creams are. No matter how careless you may have been in the past—begin today to use Pond’s Two Creams regularly to give your skin that well cared for look and smooth loveliness that distin- guishes the woman who must be beautiful in spite of her active social life. Buy both creams in any drug or department store. The Pond’s Extract Company. ne oe = ost. C —) GENEROUS TUBES—MAIL COUPON WITH 10c TODAY | The Pond’s Extract Co.,137S Hudson St., New York — Ten cents (10c) is enclosed for introductory tubes of Pond’s two creams—enough for two weeks’ use. EVERY SKIN NEEDS THESE TWO CREAMS Pond’s Cold Cream for cleansing, Pond’s Vanish- ing Cream to protect and to hold the powder —

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IN RICH DARK BROWN 1s Fashion’s Dictate . The vogue sponsored in furs for the coming season is the narrow-line Silhouette; collars and cuffs are different; sleeves have been modified—the mode steps forth with a new charm. __ Brown—lustrous brown in many deep tones—is decidedly the fa- 4a vorite shade in peltry. Gunther | | Quality Creations in MINK, | now being exhibited, embody if the ultimate in style and color. : | Gunther | oe at 36" Street NEW YORK Sen ee ene SSW Ay eee PA te EER ARERR A te ea i cae ls iI a WT be eS 3) ee a ena ee ee NENG coe tae ae mm AO REE OE SNES IA EE OE TNE Rt capac 20 SEEN ON equipment—a certain constraint is al- ways in him, even when he shows emotion—, Morgan plays excellently. The third lover is capably acted by Robert Strange, but, somehow, the effect of watching a familiar actor in- stead of an unfamiliar character is stronger still. Vincent Lawrence’s share in the ul- timate success of the play is partly a stage-worthy sense of what makes good talk on the stage and of what makes a comic or an emotional situa- tion. Perhaps his chief virtue, how- ever, is the ability to observe people, to find two such lovers as the boy and the Rotarian, and to transfer them to the stage in terms of talk and situa- tion. At the moment, he is a little less than skilful in certain minor mat- ters of technique. He has a drinking scene between the rival suitors which could be much more plausible and much more amusing. The two drink banteringly with one eye on the audi- ence. They might pretend considerable casualness and still go on drinking violently to outface each other. An- other device which is good in concep- tion and not so good in working out is the fight between the two suitors. The trouble with it is that Lawrence insists on having the two men knock each other out at the same moment, each with a blow to the other’s jaw. It is a little steep for the result ob- tained. Another unskilful bit is the declaration by the engineer that he will be away six or seven years build- ing a bridge. Bridges may take as long as that to build, but, when they have elevated railways on them—as this one has—, they are apt to be erected somewhere east of the Missis- sippi River and west of the Atlantic. “SUN UP” The virtues of “Sun Up,” like the virtues of “In Love with Love,” are those of observation, a theatrical idiom, and good direction. The play turned up late in the spring at that little theatre below Washington Square which the Provincetown Players deserted a year ago, and, running through the summer, it proved to be more in the legitimate line of native American drama than anything that has appeared at the playhouse since Eugene O’Neill, Susan Glaspell, and George Cram Cook moved out. “Sun Up” is about some of those mountain people of the South who recognize the Government as their hereditary enemy, generally die pump- ing lead at a revenue officer, and rejoice in an almost unbelievable ignorance of the world that lies beyond the smoky circle of their hills. Lula Vollmer has confronted these people with the gigan- tic fact of the Great War. So far as the result is a very human exhibition of ignorance, it is thoroughly amusing. The mountain widow’s son is going off to fight the Yankees—they call them “Huns” now—, and the battle is to be off in France, forty miles or so beyond Asheville. Once the son is gone, the effect of the war on the folks at home is quite unsatisfying. It has nothing to do with the premises of the play. The spectacle of a mother parting from a son whom she wants to keep at home is bound to be touching. It is particularly interesting when the woman happens to think that hunting the revenue officer who shot the boy’s father is a better job than fighting for him in France. The parting at the end of the second act is fine and very moving. But the third act has pre- cious little to do with the play at all. A draft deserter comes into the cabin one wintry night pursued by the law. THE (Continued from page 77) VOGUE STAGE The mother hides him, gets out her rifle, and prepares to fight the law. In the midst of the scene, she learns that the boy is dead, and her desire for vengeance on the Government that has taken him away and killed him grows greater still. At this moment, enter the coincidence that the deserter is the son of the revenue officer who killed her husband. She changes her mind about the Government and turns her rifle on the boy instead of the sheriff. On top of this wilful kind of hokum comes a message from her dead son not to shoot. Obviously, this is not good play building. There is no single structure of developing and in- evitable action in “Sun Up.” On the other hand, ‘there is charac- terization, a lot of it. Very good char- acterization, too. At least, it seems so to an audience unacquainted with Southern types. Miss Vollmer writes straightforward dialogue, natural and affecting at the same time. She has only to get her material in better shape in order to be a playwright worth listening to. She already has a rare knack for fusing the true talk of her people with significant reactions to- wards the social and the personal prob- lems of life. Miss Vollmer’s play gains a good deal from the exceptionally good per- formance of most of the players and the fine direction which has accom- plished this. The program puts Henry Stillman and Benjamin Kauser down as the directors. Since I have seen some work of Kauser’s at the same theatre, I know that the credit belongs to Stillman. Stillman is familiar with the Southern mountains, and he plays quite perfectly one of the bits of hu- man wreckage which contrast with the amazing strength and character bred in these same hills. In the general performance, Stillman has got every small detail exactly—unless it is the cabin itself. He has taught the minor actors who fill the cast not only how to speak the dialect of the mountains, but how to convey through their bodies, too, the whole quality of this strange life. He has made or allowed —either is an exceptional deed—an unknown, unprepossessing, but really talented young actress, Anne Elstner, to play the boy’s sweetheart and young wife as an awkward, drawling girl touched a little by the degeneracy of her family. The outstanding performance, never- theless, is Lucille La Verne’s as the mother. Miss La Verne has patiently specialized in Southern women for ten or fifteen years, and, at last, she has got her reward. She plays the mother with such uncompromising vigour and power that the old woman takes her place in the memory as one of the un- forgettable people of the stage. Her parting from her son is very fine in- deed, and she swings the essentially false last act into really exciting drama. “VANITIES OF 1923” Vaudeville is the vogue among the intellectuals just now, a little more the vogue than it deserves. Its technical efficiency is admirable. It boasts some exceptional personalities and talents. It is always theatrical in the good old legitimate sense of recognizing the au- dience and making an art out of play- ing to it. But the intellectual and emotional level of the vaudeville au- dience leaves its mark on most of the performers. Least of all, however, on one, Joe Cook, the man who makes the heart of Earl Carroll’s “Vanities of 1923.” Cook is a humorist, as the program bills him. He is a creator of (Continued on page 114)

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‘A National Institution From Coast to Coast'*| 3 Button NORFOLK with Plain Back, Yoke in front with Knife pleats from yoke to front of pocket. Blue Serges, Unfinished Worsteds. $25 and Fancy Sizes 7 to 20 years. ~ Prowning King § (0.7 Established 101 Years Boys’ OLIVER TWIST Washable Poplin Waist with Hand Embroidered Collar and Cuffs. Pants of Jersey in Blue, Henna and Brown. Sizes 3 to 5 years. $7.50 HE two models illus- trated are featured by the most exclusive Boys’ Apparel Shops in New York. Both of these models may be seen at any of the Browning King stores or may be ordered by mail. BOSTON 407 Washington g Nicollet at Fifth St. BROOKLYN, N. Fulton St. st DeKalb Ave. es bee oe re BUFFALO . ai 571 Main St. MAHA CHICAGO Cor. 15th & Douglas Sts. 12-14 W. Washington St. PHILADELPHIA COSIBATS 1524-6 Chestnut St. 4 ace Sts. ‘ CLEVELAND, PI tal Ward St. DENVER : PROVIDENCE 1624-30 Stout St. Westminster & Eddy Sts. DETROIT ST. PAUL Washington Blvd. at Grand River 6th & Robert Sts. KANSAS CITY ST. LOUIS Grand Ave. & 1ith St. 7th & St. Charles Sts. MILWAUKEE SEATTLE 2-12 Grand Ave. MINNEAPOLIS 2nd Ave. & University St. pe un ON THES VOGUE STAGE (Continued from page 112) nonsense, spoken and silent. He knows how to do almost everything on the vaudeville program, from violin play- ing to juggling, and he chooses to burlesque most of it with delicious ab- surdity. As a personality, he is weak, a rather washed-out Frank Craven. Or, rather, his personality is so outside the usual theatre range, so matter-of-fact, so commonplace, that he ceases to be an actor at all, and becomes a very clever young fellow saying and doing nonsensical things at a party. At any rate, the flavour of Cook is new, and the thing he has to say is close to priceless. Along with Cook, Carroll has bor- rowed a lot of vaudeville that might as well have stayed behind. Uncred- ited imitations of Fanny Brice and people who bump into the proscenium arch belong in the two-a-day. Jimmy Duffy, on the other hand, is funny, though rough and insistent. He and Cook and a great, great many fine furs are the features of this revue. The show seems to me to be sadly absorbed in the personal habits of Peggy Hopkins Joyce, in the weather HILE Molyneux’s line remains slender and straight for day- time and slightly draped for evening, as it always has been, he has made some concessions to the desire for more “movement” by the use of full apron fronts, full double-skirt tu- nics, and an occasional gathered or circular frill. His trim little suits for morning are belted with leather, with a square pocket like a letter attached at each ‘side, one fitted for cigarettes and matches and the other for a “van- ity.” Coat-dresses are very straight and slender and usually fasten over to one side. One is Chinese in treatment, with a large Chinese monogram em- broidered in the front. Many cos- tumes have straight three-quarter coats, some fur-lined, worn with simple frocks or frocks with attached embroidered blouses in sombre colours, such as black and brown. Afternoon models include many dresses with coats to match, sometimes quite long and some- times three-quarter length. The coats are often trimmed with fur—in many narrow bands or one or two wide ones. These coats are frequently of velvet, sometimes of moire, sometimes entirely of fur. Among the latter, ermine dyed in two shades, brown and beige, is most charming worn with a_ crépe georgette frock to match, trimmed with pleated frills. Some costumes have coats of plain materials, such as velvet or broadcloth, with linings and dresses of rich, patterned materials, most of which are exclusive with Moly- neux. Such dresses often have a full apron front, the fulness arranged in vertical tucks stitched to the depth of a foot. The original little hats worn with them are tempting the mode to THE COLLECTION OF MOLYNEUX —there are innumerable songs about sunshine and snow and innumerable rainbow costumes—, and in lyrics run- ning after this fashion: “You hold her hand, her hand, her hand, She'll understand, "der- stand.” “THE MAD HONEYMOON” "derstand, There is nothing at all to be said of or for “The Mad Honeymoon,” by Barry Conners, except that it seems to be another negative. demonstration of William A. Brady’s theory that if a manager puts on enough cheap plays cheaply enough, sooner or later he will find a popular success. The piece is a mixture of farce and melodrama of the sort that Cohan and Harris used to work up into success with the greatest of care. A cast of less than average quality, slovenly direction, and aged settings assure the public that it will not long be troubled by “The Mad Honeymoon.” forsake the cloche. Very tines en- sembles consist of black velvet or moire costumes, trimmed with brown furs in bands and hats of black velvet with wide bows of brown moire ribbon. Evening dresses are of three types. There are rich lamés, plain coloured or finely patterned with gold or silver, with plain bodices and double-tiered skirts giving the effect of two deep, gathered ruffles, the top one sometimes open in front. There are slightly draped velvet dresses, in such colours as raspberry, dark copper, a new olive- green, or grass-green. And, finally, comes the great novelty of the collec- tion, the perfectly straight dresses, fan- tastically embroidered with well-known Japanese motifs, such as the branch of cherry-blossoms, the stork, the iris, and the goldfish, which have been repro- duced as faithfully as on a Japanese wall panel. Other embroidered dresses confine more conventional embroidery of pearls and diamonds either to the bodice or to the skirt. Here, the fa- vourite material is velvet, in shades of rose, white, or green. For evening, Molyneux offers either tubular coats of rich materials, fur trimmed, or rather narrow capes of brocade or other rich materials with immense fur collars. Two of the best are in gold—one in a gold crépe em- broidered in gold and the other in a gold brocade, the wide sleeve and the collar trimmed with three bands of Hudson sable. One very effective cape is of black panne velvet, extremely ample, collared with white fox and lined with white satin. Skirts are noticeably shorter, and waist-lines remain at the top of the hips, to the satisfaction of many women.

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AKING Editor’s Note—This article is the third of a series on legal and financial affairs that will be published from time to time in Vogue. (Questions addressed to Vogue Information Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York City, will be answered by the author of the article. F you should die to-night, who would have your pearls? Have you ever thought of that? Your yearls, too, are probably the least important part of the property at your disposal; because, in spite of the admonition of the Scriptures not to lay up treasure upon earth at the mercy of moth and rust, to say nothing of crime waves, we are all, “day by day in every way,” accumulating more and more. It may be a tapestry at a Fifth Avenue gallery which you just couldn’t resist, or a good thing in oil. One goes into your drawing-room, the other into your safe-deposit vault, but, eventually, they must both be left be- hind. And the question is—to whom? Perhaps, you don’t happen to know what becomes of your things, of all your property, if you do not make a will? It is the state that sees to their distribution. It may be a good and just distribution in the majority of cases, but it might fail to carry out your own individual duties and wishes. The application of this impersonal rule of thumb frequently results in catastrophe and injustice to those who are left. One can read evidences of it almost every day in the newspapers. Two recent and typical cases in point make the argument more concrete. New Yorker, whom we shall call Jones, died leaving Mrs. Jones, but no chil- dren. He left just enough money to enable his wife to live as she had been accustomed. He had a brother and sister living in California, both well off and both married. His estate con- sisted entirely of stocks and bonds. He had always wanted his wife “to have everything.” He had frequently said so to her and to their friends, but he had died suddenly at middle age and had made no will. To Mrs. Jones’s dismay, she found that under the laws of New York State a widow. took two thousand dollars and one half of the rest of the prop- erty. That was all. Her husband’s brother and sister were given the other half. WOMEN AND WILLS The other casé concerned a certain Mrs. Brown. She died leaving a hus- band and children. She left also an unmarried sister of uncertain age whom she had always taken care of. This sister was a semi-invalid, trained to no thought even of self-support. Because Mrs. Brown had left no will, the sister, for whom she had intended to provide, became dependent upon her brother-in- law. who had never liked her. When such things as these are hap- pening every day, it seems ‘strange that woman’s natural curiosity has only just led her to seek an answer to the cuestion, “What will happen to me if my husband dies without making a will? What will happen to my chil- dren, my sister, my niece, if I do the same thing?” The answer to her auestion would be slightly different in different states, but there are certain general principles which are common to almost all the states. In the first place, it is im- portant to remember that there are two kinds of property in the eyes of By JEANNETTE PHILLIPS GIBBS VOGUE WILL A the law—real. property and personal property. Real property, in general, means land and anything permanently annexed thereto: namely, houses, build- ings, and so forth. Personal property has often been defined as goods and chattels, but it has come also to in- clude certificates and evidences of ownership like stocks, bonds, and mort- gages. In fact, almost all property which is not “real” can be called “per- sonal.” This statement is, of course, subject to qualification. A charming young woman of my acquaintance once wanted to will her four-year-old daugh- ter to her father and mother, as she was afraid her husband might marry again. The child, the lawyer had to explain, was not property, real or personal. The mother undoubtedly thought the child was both real and personal. To answer the specific ques- tion: if your husband dies intestate, or, in other words, without a will, you, as his widow, would receive a third or a half, depending upon the state in which you were living, of his per- sonal property. The rest of the per- sonal property would be divided equally among the children. This personal property would be handled by an ad- ministrator appointed by the court. He is obliged, before distributing the property, to pay debts and taxes. The real estate goes directly to you and the children without passing through the hands of the administrator. You are the heirs; whereas, in the matter of personal property, you are legally known as the next of kin. As widow, you have a life interest in the real estate. Upon your death, it will be divided equally among the children. COURTESY AND DOWER RIGHTS Should you die first—if you will par- don the literary murder—and if your husband should then die, the children would share the property equally. But suppose again that all the children died before you and your husband or that you never had any children. Then, upon the death of your husband without a will, you would only get one-half or one-third of all his prop- erty, both real and personal. The rest would be divided among your hus- band’s surviving relatives. The in- verse holds good. In other words, if it is the wife who dies, the husband surviving has the same rights in her property as she has in his. A _hus- band’s rights are called courtesy rights. A wife’s rights are known as dower rights. It is obvious that rules of this type can not meet the individual require- ments of each situation. It becomes, therefore, equally obvious that every man or woman should make a will. I say every woman now, with confi- dence. It seems strange that, under the old common law, a married woman was not allowed to make a will. Her property became the property of her husband upon her marriage, and, of course, he had the right to dispose of it. Now, in all the states of this.coun- try, testamentary capacity—namely, the right to make a will or testament— is given married women by statute. A statue of the modern woman trium- phant over a symbolic figure of the common law as an ugly, grinning beast would have a host of admirers. For a layman or woman to know in accurate detail about the writing and making of wills is impossible, but it is possible to be more intelligent than the aver- age person is when going to the lawyer for advice. Also, it is possible to ac- quire enough information to know that (Continued on page 118)

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VOGUE . ae aoe “ae 118 STALL LLL LLL CLLR CLL CLEC LLL LL PLLC LLL | M A K I N G A : “3 “3 - “3 * * 3 (Continued from page 116) + 3 Cuttin ORS - SOR AOR AOR OR SOR TOR TOR TOR TOR TOR TOR FORA TOM TOR AOR TOR AOR HOR AOA GAO 7 2 ££ 8 28 & 8 8 8 8 Be ee he he he lhe Ue Ue Ue Ue Oe HOR ol * Ae ANNOUNCING THE SHOWING of THE MOST EXCLUSIVE and DISTINCTIVE FOOTWEAR FOR FALL & WINTER CAMMEYER Branch De Luxe 077 =Sifth Avenue Between Sard and 54th Streets New York City Our representatives visit all the larger cities SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED BROCHURE Sonionnionoleesnnile: OUUGAtERA 0412040 04E 2410020 APONTE HAAnEUAEUUYY TENE LEAL HEU 1.0420 000 FEGOTEcAYOUOOTHEAOO EHO EHSL $ 2 & LRA AOR CORNER OR COR OR OR I neni inciueciie in nctinat professional help is needed, which is a step in any edicational process. A woman might even learn enough to influence her husband to make a will. This, however, would perhaps involve a fragmentary knowledge of psychol- ogy, as well as of law. The preliminary process of making a will is simple. You must make up your mind what you want done with your property and then go to the best lawyer you know and ask him to put your wishes in the proper legal form. A few of the elementary legal prin- ciples, however, should be in your mind. For instance, it is important to remem- ber that there are only two ways in which property can be left—outright and in trust. If money is left in trust, the trust can not continue for ever. This is disappointing to many men who would like to think of their for- tune as a continuous entity, giving an income to a continuous line of worthy descendants. This can never happen. I refer, of course, to the continuance of the trust, not to the worthy descend- ants. A testator, the person making a will or testament, can leave property to his children for life and, then, to his grandchildren until they are twenty-one. At this age, they must take full con- trol of the property, and the trust must cease. Technically, this is called the rule against perpetuities. When prop- erty is left in trust, it is owned legally by a trustee appointed under the will. He is bound to use “utmost care” in investing the funds. He is bound to make a statement to the court at regu- lar intervals, showing the amount of income paid to the beneficiary. He is also entitled, of course, to take a cer- tain sum for his services. In the case of incompetent people, I believe in trust funds; but I also believe that the old-fashioned idea of keeping women as a class from the control of money is a theory that is growing more and more antiquated every day. If more men would educate their wives in the investment ‘of funds and the proper care of property, they would be saved the expense of creating trust funds. They could also make their wives trus- tees of property left for minor children. Indeed, if they gave their wives a better business education, they would be spared a great deal of useless worry. How many men there are, whose spare time is engaged in administering their own estate, who write a new will every few months. A man may be in the best of health, but he discusses his wife’s remarriage and the possibility of their three-year-old son’s failing in busi- ness at the age of thirty with no father to help him. The soundest advice to this type of neurotic is to use his best judgment once, go to a good lawyer, have his will properly written and executed, and then adjourn to the country club. For until Conan Doyle’s communication with the spirit wosld is made slightly more practical than it now is, no man can be executor, administrator, or trustee of his own estate. EXECUTOR AND ADMINISTRATOR Personal property left under a will goes to the executor, who must pay the debts and taxes and then distribute the property according to the terms of the will. He must then render an accounting to the proper court. When this is done, his duties are over. The only difference between an executor and an administrator is that the latter is appointed by a court of law to take charge of the estate of a person dying intestate, while the former is named by the deceased in his will. Real estate left in a will passes to the per- sons named as soon as the will is probated—that is, proved and held legal in the proper court., As a matter of legal terminology, real property is not given—it is “devised”; personal property is “bequeathed.” One speaks, therefore, of a devise of real property and a bequest of personal property, even outside of legal circles. THE FORM OF A WILL The form of a will is stereotyped and much easier to understand than an income tax blank. The preamble is as familiar as the marriage or burial service. “Know all men by these presents that I, John Jones, of the City of Boston, of the County of Suf- folk, of the Commonwealth of Massa- chusetts, being of sound mind and memory, do hereby publish and declare this my last will and testament, hereby revoking all wills hitherto made by me. After payment of my just debts and funeral expenses, I do devise and be- queath as follows.” Then follows the body of the will, which consists of a clear statement of the things to be done. The will must be signed at the end by the testator. Witnesses are always required. ‘They must watch the testator write his signature. They must hear him say that it is his will, but they need not and should not know its contents. They must sign their names in his presence. Some states require two witnesses and some three. If only two witnesses sign and three are required by the statute, the will is held invalid and the property is distributed by the State as if there were no will The witnesses must not have an interest in the will; that is, they must receive no property by its terms. To show how important these details are, I remember the case of a man living in New York who signed his will in the margin, in the middle of the document The New York statute requires that a will be signed at the end. This will was not allowed to stand by the court, and his property was distributed by the State as though he had died intestate. Unmarried women must remember that, when they marry and have a child born to them, any will they may have made before they married is re- voked. In some states, marriage, with- out the birth of a child, revokes a will. There is another very important point which married men and women should remember. It is true that they are under no obligation to leave prop- erty to any relatives. ey can even disinherit a child; but the claim of husband and wife in each other’s prop- erty can not be willed away. If the will does not give the surviving hus- band or wife as much as the law allows in case of intestacy, the survivor, either man or woman, can take the full amount under the statute. Choice must be made, however, between ac- cepting either the provisions of the will or the provisions of the statute. Ninety-nine persons out of a hun- dred would never dream of making a will if they had no property; yet, strangely enough, the most beautiful will ever written disposed of no prop- erty at all. It was written by a law- yer, a very wise one. It was his own will and ran as follows: “I, Charles Lounsbury, being of sound and dispos- ing mind and memory, do now make and publish this, my last will and testa- ment, in order, as justly as I may, to distribute my interests in the world among succeeding men. “And, first, that part of my interest which is known among men and recog- nized in the sheep-bound volumes of (Continued on page 120)

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October l PrruaPs there is no one thing so expressive of a.woman’s instinctive taste as her choice of perfumes. It is significant that HOUBIGANT perfumes have been preferred always by those women of long descent who represented, in their tastes and habits, centuries of fastidious living. This is quite as true to-day as in the years gone by. For, the skill of HOUBIGANT has not lessened. Each generation, since the founding of this great French House, has but brought a finer creative talent to the making of perfumes; and HOUBIGANT extraits are still incom- parable. All the famous HOUBIGANT perfumes and other toiletries are now | H available in America. Quelques Fleurs— the commingled fra- grance of many flowers. At smart shops everywhere, ; you can obtain, if you wish: Le Parfum Idéal Quelques Violettes Quelques Fleurs La Rose France Mon Boudoir Premier Mai Un Peu d’Ambre Parfum Incounu Le Temps des Lilas D’Argeville Violette Houbigant Jasmin Floral Coeur de Jeannette Mes Delices HOUBIGANT C#0 Mon Boudoir— Le Temps des Lilas— New York, 16 West 49TH ST. Montreat, 46 St. ALEXANDER ST. French sophistication the embodiment of presented in an essence. Spring in a perfume. Extraits, Faux de ‘Toilette, % | IA Foudres, Poudres a Saehet, Poudres de Tale, Foudres Gompaetes, Rouges, Savons, Sels pourle Bain, Brillantines ¢

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DP Les L. 1s when the Bride lays out her gift china for her first dainty dinner party that she is most grateful for the discrimination shown in the choice of Theodore Haviland FRANCE Theodore Haviland China is a product of . France and represents the oldest tradition in the making of fine china. Exquisite designs, rare craftsmanship and an essential hardness of body and glaze with which scarcely any china in the world today can compare. : The exquisite Arcadia pattern on the delightful new Pilgrim shape is a rich and colorful Oriental creation reflecting a note in decoration distinctly of the vogue. An open pattern. Pateni pending. Theodore Haviland China may be purchased from any dealer’ in fine china. It is by no means as expen- sive as its quality might suggest. INCORPORATED New York CANADIAN OFFICE: TORONTO THEODORE HAVILAND & CO. HNN IAL —- ae ——- > i S i i I NTE a UA i i FAN - HAT mA KR A NOS VOGUE iw ek (Continued from page 118) the law as my property, being incon- siderable and of none account, I make no account of in this my will. “My right to live, it being but a life estate, is not at my disposal, but these things excepted, all else in the world I now proceed to devise and be- queath.... “I leave to children exclusively, but only for the life of their childhood, all and every, the dandelions of the field and the daisies thereof, with the right’ to play among them freely, according to the custom of children, warning them at the same time against the thistles. And I devise to children the yellow shores of the creeks and the golden sands beneath the waters there- of, with the dragon-flies that skim over the surface of said waters and the odors of the willows that dip into said waters and the white clouds that float high over the giant trees. . . . “To lovers I devise their imaginary world with whatever they may need, as the stars of the sky, the red, red roses by the wall, the snow of the haw- thorne, the sweet strains of music, or aught else they may desire, to figure to each other the lastingness and beauty of their love... . “And to those who are no longer children, or youths, or lovers, I leave Memory, and leave to them the volumes of the poems of Burns and Shakespeare, and of other poets, if there are others. to the end that they may live the old days over again frecly and fully, without tithe or diminu- ee “And to those who are no longer children, or youths, or lovers, I leave too the knowledge of what a rare, rare world it is.” THE COLLECTION OF GERMAINE OR the evening, princesse dresses predominate— made very close- fitting without the aid of tucks and embellished with flounces recalling 1880 modes. Germaine’s volants ascend, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, as far as the waist-line; oc- casionally, on both sides in the quaint apron effect called by the French “laveuse.” This is often tied back in a bow or terminates in back in a pleated panel which gives sufficient fulness without sacrificing the snug fit. Byzantine embroideries flame on frocks as straight as the proverbial pencil. There are a few Egyptian models, de- veloped usually in velvet and gleaming with steel or with pearl beads in hori- zontal bands. The deep V décolletage is the one most favoured, promising to supplant the high bateau_neck-line which has been so long triumphant; skirts are moderate in length compared MARTIAL E HE narrow, unbelted silhouette— sometimes perfectly straight, more often with a flare at the hem all the way around or only at the sides, or with soft fulness in front below the knees—is typical of Martial et Armand. There is a significant use of the long, straight tunic, bordered with fur, over a narrow underskirt. There is also a continuance of the 1880 silhouette, very much modified. An indication for the future is found in a few advance models, in which the fulness is placed definitely on the hip at each side, as shown by the sketch on page 55. Here, as elsewhere, daytime skirts are distinctly shorter. The waist-line, when there is any, is at the very be- ginning of the hip. Not much change can be noted in neck-lines or sleeves, the latter being either very long and tight or non-existent. There are a few tailleurs, many coat- dresses, and many costumes consisting of a coat and frock to match. The coats are almost always perfectly straight and the dresses softly full be- low the knee, either all around or in the front only. When the coats are reversible, sombre and plain on one side, gorgeous and colourful on the other, as they frequently are, the frock combines the two colours. Many coat- dresses have removable high fur collars. The evening dresses are on very slender lines. Some are tightly draped in folds from above the waist-line to below to the models exploited last season. Full-length wraps are deftly designed to give a three-quarter effect by means of wide fur bands set on at the knee and terminated by a flounce of the fabric below. Fur coats are elaborated by embroideries or braid passemen- teries; several are sewed on crépe, which gives them additional suppleness. Fewer jackets are seen among the tailleurs, but their place has been taken by some rather loose, very short little coats, often in a colour or material contrasting with the skirts and adorned with horizontal embroidery. Formal dresses show a large number of straight slips veiled with very long overdresses of transparent materials; street or afternoon frocks favour a tunic flaring a little over the hips and accompanied by a very narrow skirt. Some of these have bands of fur at the bottom, often broken at the sides. T ARMAND the knee and are trimmed with a large bow on one side or a small one in the back. This drapery is frequently of a different material from the circular frill which forms the lower part of the skirt. Nearly all the evening gowns have long coloured tulle scarfs at- tached, which serve for trains, sashes, or shoulder draperies. Novel trimmings include chenille em- broidery and an embroidery made of very narrow strips of felt, used like soutache. Another novelty is the plac- ing of the seams on the outside and scalloping the edges. ‘This scalloping. which is like that on an old-fashioned flannel petticoat, is often used around the neck and sleeves of afternoon frocks. Pinking is used for the edges of bands, which sometimes overlap. Both fringes and tassels appear, as well as a good deal of embroidery, notably that following Chinese pat- terns. Black and white are much used, and principal colours are dull browns and coq de roche (bright orange), a com- bination of navy and porcelain-blue. cinnamon shades, the shade called in French “tilleul,” and a few reds. White and rose shades are in the majority for evening. The favoured materials include vel- vet, moire, some crépe brochés, jersey mousseux in silk and metal and in ail- metal, kasha, velours de Smyrne, and printed velvet.

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a 7. afd. October 1 PLatinu /ike DIAMONDS varies greatly in quality ABABA SSRNDY/ SS\l ILO Why the Gruen Guild uses only iridio platinum 7 HEN you buy a platinum watch : it is particularly important that you know the quality of the platinum you are obtaining. Most of the platinum cases to- day are made of 43% palladium, 50% platinum and 7% fine gold. Unfortunately the law permits a case which con- tains even a small percentage of platinum to be marked as platinum. Yet, just as you do not expect to obtain 18 karat gold for the price of 10 karat, so too should it be with platinum. The palladium platinum case may be worth its cheaper price and, while new, it looks very much like platinum. But with wear it soon takes on a greasy or pewter-like look. Tridio platinum in Gruen Watches The Gruen Guild uses only iridio platinum, which is the finest of all platinum, containing between 5% and 10% iridium and 9o% to 95% platinum. The iridium is used to make the platinum harder and more enduring, and to give brilliancy and richness to the case. Iridium costs far more than platinum, palladium far less than platinum, and has only about two-thirds its weight. Consequently the manufacturing cost of a palladium platinum case is very much less than that of an iridio platinum case. And so when you see the name Gruen on a platinum watch, you may know that the watch is cased in the finest platinum obtainable. Gruen AA-| diamonds Most men and women, knowing little of diamonds, must buy their diamond-orna- mented watches on confidence. But there are many qualities of diamonds, and it is most difficult to detect the difference between diamonds of different qualities when new. With use, however, this differ- ence is readily seen, as the inferior stones will quickly lose their brilliant appearance. Gruen diamond watches are set only with AA-1l diamonds in iridio platinum cases. In the panel you will find exquisite examples of Gruen platinum craftsmanship—platinum wrist watches studded with the finest diamonds. Thus it is seen that the mark of Gruen is a pledge of quality that goes far beyond the movement, pro- tecting you in every feature of the Gruen Watch you buy. When you buy a diamond platinum watch, look for the name Gruen. For sale only by good jewelers in every community. No. B-101—Iridio platinum (best platinum) AA-1 quality finest diamonds, Extra Precision movement (smallest Car- touche made) $595.00 No. B-102—Iridio platinum (best platinum) AA-1 quality finest diamonds and sapphires, Precision movement . $495.00 Without end pieces $395.00 No. B-103—Sautoir, iridio platinum (best platinum) AA-1l quality finest diamonds and onyx, Extra Precision 18-jewel movement . $1995.00 No. B-104—Iridio platinum (best platinum) AA-1 quality finest diamonds, 18-jewel, Extra Precision movement $2750.00 No. B-105—Iridio platinum, diamond bezel, Cartouche move- $285.00 ment GRUEN WATCH MAKERS GUILD Canadian Branch, Toronto (Entrance, 2 W. 43rd St.) Time Hill, Cincinnati, U. S. A. New York Address, 512 Fifth Ave. Engaged in the art of watch manufacturing since 1874 GRUEN sv WATCHES Including the original and genuine “VERITHIN’ For your protection—see that the name Gruen is on the watch

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certainly To open—turn lock up To lock—turn lock down $40.00 to $175.00 Reasonably priced, from appreciate this feature / Belber Bags and Suitcases combine smart styles with convenient de- signs and dura- bility that is most unusual. Specials for both men and women. SN’T it true that you’ve always considered locking or unlocking the ordinary trunk a real nuisance? No one likes to fumble with clumsy catches or strain and tug at un- willing locks. The new Belber Safe-Lock makes locking and unlocking delightfully easy and simple.. There are no nail-breaking catches to worry with. One turn of the key—then turn the lock up as shown, and the trunk is unlocked and open. One turn of the lock down and the trunk is tightly closed, locked in four places at one time !—no complicated mechanism. No other trunk contains this de- sirable feature. It is one of the many improvements which have made Belber Trunks and Bags the largest selling line of fine luggage on earth! Write us for our attractive little booklet—“The Style in Wardrobe Trunks—and how to pack.” It will show you many valuable features that you want in your trunk—and also tell you how to keep your clothes in the best condition while traveling. It is free upon request. olberr SAFE-LOCK WARDROBE TRUNK THE BELBER TRUNK & BAG COMPANY, Philadelphia World’s largest manufacturer of fine traveling goods 3) | OQ SSS WMWON WMCMBNAW CARET Paul Caret’s pen- chant for trains is tlustrated in a supple rose vel- vet gown that has a triple train fringed with rose ostrich WIL. Rehbinder, Paris THE COLLECTION OF PATOU HE use of the circular cut is the outstanding feature of Patou’s collection. It appears most fre- quently in the front of the skirt, rather low; sometimes, only at the hem on both sides of an otherwise slender model; sometimes, at the hip on one side only: and, more rarely, on both sides. Patou sums up his own collec- tion as follows: “A complete change of outline which becomes ample, soft, and comfortable, a complete return to brilliant and rich materials, and a great abundance of skilfully designed embroideries.” All very true, indeed. For the most informal wear, there are tailleurs with short coats and plain skirts making one line, and coat-dresses trimmed with fur and with collars immensely high. For afternoon, there are gowns of soft material to be worn under a fur coat, nearly all with plain backs and some adaptation of the cir- cular cut in the front. There are three-piece models, the coat short—for younger women—or in three-quarter length, usually perfectly straight and trimmed with fur. All these have bodices of bright materials—brocade, silk, silk and metal—which sometimes stop at the top of the hips and some- (Continued on page 130) A black frock with tiered skirt is bright- ened by a green girdle and rows of green sou- tache on the front panel,corsage, and _ sleeves ALICE BERNARD Slightly flar- ing below a drawn-1in waist -line 1s the blouse of a frock of cinnamon- brown kaska enhanced by gold tracery and otter fur

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October 1 OM FORT has been raised toa fine art by intensive study in certain great hotelsand exclusive clubs. Where guests are exacting and luxurious beds are demanded, you will find many Purple Label mattresses in use. Inevery case, too, itssuper-comfort iscoupled with actual economy. The Purple Labels in the Chicago Athletic Club and the Congress Hotel, Chicago, for instance, have been in constant service now for seventeen years. Meeting such difficult requirements trium- phantly, Te Purple Label will demonstrate its economy and cradling luxury even more easily and decisively for you in your home. Until you have slept on The Purple Label, you cannot appreciate how deep, unbroken rest adds to your energy, your personal force, your zest in living. See it at your dealer’s or write for “Restful Bedrooms” to Simmons Company, 1347S. Michigan Ave., Chicago. SIMMON S eMattresses Springs - “Beds BUILT FOR SLEEP 123

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Q ueenie emith, Helen of Troy Company, voices a universal opinion in her. appreciation of —— Fo N °R Every occas? They give that up-to-the-minute look which draws admiring glances wherever smart women assemble. “ty-Leo. the desirable new material with fur-like stripes, designed exclusively for THorthwile Coats, fashions the smart and serviceable model illustrated. Sizes for women, misses and children; giv- ing especial attention to attractive designs for little women. Procurable in smart shops everywhere. Write For Lllustrated Leaflet E. J. WILE & COMPANY 498 SEVENTH AVENUE, NEW YORK The winter mode brings with it this attractive beret of black panne velvet with tiny rolled brim and charmingly informal drapery HE striking feature of Lelong’s collection is the shortening of all skirts, including everything ex- cept those on the most formal gowns. Even these are now several inches from the floor. The tailleurs continue to be cut on trim lines, with hip-length coats making one line with their nar- row short skirts. The less formal ones are often narrowly belted. Sports clothes are a feature of this house, and, for this type of costume, dull plaids predominate. In fact, plaids, combined with plain fabrics, are a feature of the collection. Little woollen frocks, on simple lines, trimmed with touches of bright embroidery on cuffs, on pockets, and at the neck, are numerous. The costume idea of the dress and coat to match—the coat straight and three- quarter length, the dress softly full—is frequently employed, as well as the CAMILLE ROGER THE COLLECTION OF LELONG Eyes are shadowed by the brim of this tortoise coloured velvet beret with gold and brown gal- loon and a _ tortoise-shell pin three-piece suit idea, the coat in the latter case being hip-length and the frock including an attached blouse in another material and colour. A novel silhouette is presented in a green vel- vet model, like a Polish redingote, opened down the front; many dresses like this are full or tiered in front and flat in back, bordered with white fur, and worn over a green and white frock. Evening dresses are sometimes long and dignified, sometimes short; the skirts are cut with a circular flare and often richly banded with fur. Evening wraps cultivate the narrow shoulders by means of shirring that holds in the fulness below, or consist of long, straight coats developed in handsome materials and trimmed with deep bands of fur. The waist-line, when there is one, is (Continued on page 132) GERMAINE Germaine makes a versatile frock with back smartly plain and three slashed tiers in front. Slashes in the sleeves reveal chiffon cuffs Tchinellaine, a new Rodier fabric resembling wool jersey, in a varie- gated shade of brown makes the coat. Leather bands form pockets

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October 1 SEE ged oP 8a MASdeErn decorating demands color on the walls—color that forms a nice balance with the furnishings of a room. It is color of which one is most conscious, upon entering a room, and it is principally by the use of harmonious color that a room is made interesting and distinctive. Sanitas Modern Wall Covering is pecu- liarly appropriate, in color, tone and de- sign, to the occasion of every room, with its soft, flat tints that can be made indi- vidual by stencilings, frescoes, or Tiffany Enriches the appearance of any home in the house blending, or with selections from the large variety. of cheerful, colorful decorative patterns. But Sanitas offers still more than beauty. Sanitas is made on cloth, ready- painted with durable oil colors. It does not crack, tear, peel, blister, or fade. It can be hung as soon as the plaster is dry, and cracks in old walls, properly filled, do not show through. Sanitas can be kept clean and fresh by wiping with a damp cloth. Comes in styles for every room in the house. Enamel Finish, plain colors and tile effects for kitchens, bathrooms, laundries, etc. . a . Flat Finish, plain tints that can be hung as they come, or stenciled, frescoed stippled, or Tiffany blended. Decorative Patterns, floral designs, and reproductions of tapestry, leather, grass- cloth and fabrics. See Sanitas at your decorator’s. Write us for samples and booklet. THE STANDARD TEXTILE PRODUCTS Co. 320 BROADWAY, NEW YORK Dept. 25 125

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‘Nothing betrays a woman’s age so surely as her hands. Old nds-—worn, neglected looking hands—can utterly contra- dict the youth and charm of her face. Don’t let your hands give people the impression that you are older than you look! You can have lovely hands—soft, white, youthful looking— if you give them the same exquisite care you give your face. If you want your hands to be beautiful—use them! Itis not usethat makes anugly hand— itis neglect. Use givesthem character, individuality, sensitiveness, until they are as full of meaning as a human face. Don’t be afraid to use your hands in any work that is interesting to you. But care for them as your most faith- ful servants. Keep them in perfect condition—keep them smooth and supple, as an artist or asurgeon keeps his hands. If you give them the right care, work will never disfigure them. Today thousands of women have found a way to keep their hands smooth and white as they go about their household tasks, without any fear that housework will age them and give them a rough neglected look. They use Jergens Lotion every time they have had their hands in water. By following this simple rule, they have found that you can give your hands hard use, and yet keep them delicate and smooth and youthful —lovely to touch or look at. Jergens Lotion is a medicinally cor- rect preparation that does remark- able things in the way of healing any roughnes. or irritation of the skin. Women have: long used Jergens Lotion for their face, to prevent chapping or sunburn and to heal any roughness or irritation. Begin today to give your hands the same care that you give your face—see how wonderfully it works! You can get a bottle of Jergens Lotion for 50 cents at any drug-store or toilet goods counter. Or send 6 cents, with your name and address for the beautiful little trial bottle shown below. Address The Andrew Jergens Co., 192 Spring Grove Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio. If you live in Canada, address The Andrew Jergens Co., Limited, 192 Sherbrooke St., Perth, Ontario. oes ta. These hands, so firm and flexible in all their lines, are far more beautiful than any ‘‘do-noth- ing’”’ hands could ever be. They have the plastic beauty of sculpture, even in performing an every- day task. Any housekeeper can have beautiful — if she cares for them in the way indicated VOGUE OQ MAAN RBNNwwWFNUj.w SAAR WI. Rehbinder, Paris LELONG Alternating bands of brown crépe and gold lamé make this gown with Egyptian front drapery SSS GROULT Nicole Groult fashions an Empire frock of pale green crépe embroi- dered with gold laurel leaves THE COLLECTION OF GROULT HIS designer, who specializes in clothes for the jeune fille and the very young woman, has decided upon very definite silhouettes, reject- ing certain tendencies which appear in other winter collections and developing others in a manner inimitably her own. The result is that her opening lacks the indecision which marks those of several houses. For every type of oc- casion, she uses an abundance of metal —all-metal and silk and metal jersey mousseux for morning, brocades com- bined with plain fabrics for afternoon. and iamés for evening. The line most favoured for formal occasions ap- pears im many frocks similar in theme. These have closely fitted bod- ices, nearly always sleeve- less, and a moderately deep, oval décolletage. The waist-iine remains very definitely below normal, and the skirt is full without being bouffant, with gathers over the hips— an important note. She ignores the 1880 tendency to accentuate fulness in back, noticeable in many collections, but the vogue for placing fulness in front by means of flounces appears in another interesting silhouette which she has used a great deal. Various slender chemise frocks dispense with the waist-line altogether and are orna- mented by straight-hanging flounces, concentrated usually in front. A tendency to- wards the use of elaborate embroideries is charming- ly illustrated in the pho- tographs of models from this collection, which ap- pear on pages 50 and 51. LUCILE Lucile’s simple brown wool frock trimmed with black soutache has decorative undersleeves and a vest of black - embroidered white tissue

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October 1 For SKIN HEALTH BURNHAM CUCUMBER CREAM a liquid cleansing cream—the first essential in all profes- sional beauty treatments. Price 60c and $1.20 BURNHAM SKIN REJUVENATOR a skin food used profession- ally by graduate beauty spec- ialists. Price $1.20 BURNHAM AROMATIC ASTRINGENT tones and _ exhilirates—an essential which too many women overlook. Price $1.20 “There are six toilet preparations essential to skin health and facial beauty—a cleansing cream, a skin food, a cold cream, an astringent, a face powder and a touch of rouge. ‘These six preparations should be selected with need and harmonizes with the others. order direct by mail. Ait A Positive Statement Regarding Cosmetics a BuRNHAM The Worlds Foremost Beauty Authorities The Burnham “Home Treatment” Preparations —are in constant use at Burnham’s—the world’s largest beauty establishment. All were formulated for professional use in beauty culture. Each has been designed for a specific They may be obtained in Drug Stores, Department Stores and Beauty Shops throughout the country. If no dealer in your vicinity is prepared to serve you, it will pay you to We want you to try these preparations. res AM _ BURNHAM JASMIN CREAM a superior cold cream and skin emollient. Price 60c BURNHAM JACQUE ROSE PETALS a cold cream rouge for lips and cheeks. In tubes 60c BURNHAM POUDROZONE FACE POWDER an invisible yet highly ad- hesive powder. Price $1.20 scrupulous care. They constitute the ‘Home Treatment.’ “To be beneficial they should all be made by the same chemist who has so prepared them that each will supplement and harmonize with all the others.” Use the coupon below and send for a trial-size tube of Burnham Skin Rejuvenator. This remarkable cream preserves all natural freshness in a youthful complexion and nourishes, softens, soothes and improves any skin. You will prefer it to any cream you have ever used. Mail the coupon today. You will be convinced, beyond all question, that, between your visits to a beauty specialist, the Burnham “Home Treatment” Prepara- tions are essential. I New YorK MANUFACTURERS SIONALLY OPERATORS AND OF THE E. E.BURNHAM Inc. Curcaco Pe ESTABLISHED 1871 OF THE COMPLETE DEMONSTRATED BEAUTY OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST BEAUTY ESTABLISHMENT BURNHAM SCHOOLS OF BEAUTY CULTURE ¢ / E Pes, 4 / Toilet Requisite 7 Division, / 180 N. Wabash 7 7 ia Ave Chicege,. "Ti. ff Gentlemen: 7” Enclosed find 19¢ to cover postage, etc, 7 ’ LINE OF PROFES- f Please send me free a trial PREPARATIONS ya size tube of Burnham Skin Re- juvenator with descriptive booklet ae “Beauty’s Charm.” P N ee a oe **BURNHAM’S” | puede

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a a ean le ae All W as fey teas aval e)\a | hy [ Sherril Schell This group of rare books from Persia, China, and Japan shows that book- collections may have decorative as well as intrinsic value THE CASE FOR RARE BOOKS OME one has said that the passion for collecting outlasts all other passions. That person must have had the book-collector in mind, for his particular form of mania always seems to be the most virulent, as well as the most lasting. Some men buy books like gentlemen. Others seek them like scholars. But, to be of the elect, one should hunt them like a gentleman, scholar, and. madman. The true biblio- phile, like the artist, is born—not made. Among the true book-collecting fra- ternity, no one is worthy of the title, bibliophile, unless he makes collecting the ‘supreme mission of his life and stands ready at all times to sacrifice everything for it. The name is only too often bandied about indiscriminate- ly in reference to any one who buys books, but, as Brander Matthews has so bravely, "said: “If he is not especially concerned whether the books he has on his shelves are first editions or last editions, if he is not fastidious as to whether his books are clad in paper or in cloth, then he is in danger of the council; he is a heretic and a blasphemer; he is unworthy of being enfranchised into the noble company of devout book lovers. If he had as lief or liefer read Beaumont and Fletcher in the handy reprint of the Mermaid Series as in the folio which Charles: Lamb dragged home late at night from Parker’s in Covent Garden and for the purchase of which he had to forego a much- needed new suit of clothes—, why, then and in that case, he is past pray- ing for. . . . The ever renewed joys of the bookman’s paradise are not for him.” The true bibliophile is one who “Book hunts, while the loungers fly; He book hunts through December freeze; In breeches baggy at the knees, And heedless of the public jeers, For these, for these, he hoards his fees, Aldines, Bodonis, Elzevirs.” To be a successful book-collector, one must be endowed with capabilities of many kinds—learning, taste, judg- ment, discrimination, foresight, and persistence. The latter virtue is one of the most important of all, for the most desirable books usually are the most elusive. It often happens that the most experienced collectors are obliged to wait years before they are able to obtain some greatly desired volume. A certain bibliophile of my acquaintance spent ten years tracking down a first edition of the Hesperides, althcugh he had the cleverest agents in New York and London to aid him in his search. He is very particular about the con- dition of all the books that he allows to enter his collection, and, for that reason, he had refused to buy several copies of the book that he considered not up to his standard. He was finally rewarded for his patience by running across a copy of the Herrick book in Prague, that, for condition, ranks with the three finest extant. A FAIR EXCHANGE Another collector made five trips to Europe and one to the Pacific Coast, during a period covering eighteen years, for the sole purpose of obtaining a certain masterpiece from the Aldine Press. He had seen the tome in a pri- vate collection in England and was im- mediately smitten with a desire for it. He made repeated offers for the Aldus, but the owner, also a rich bibliophile, could not be persuaded to give it up. A few years later, he discovered that the Englishman had develoned a yearn- ing for a certain Elzevir. Hearing that some FElzevirs were to be disposed of privately in California, among them the very book so greatly coveted by the Englishman, he made a hurried trip to the Coast and, after a few weeks, secured the treasure. He promptly cabled the Englishman of the fact, also stating that he would trade the Elzevir for his Aldus. Within a month, the exchange had been made. and both col- lectors were happy. For several years, the late Pierpont Morgan had his eye on the exquisite Caxtons belonging to Lord Amherst, and, when they were finally about to be put up for sale in London, he sent his librarian, Miss Belle Green, across the Atlantic to mancuvre for them. Of course, this was not such an easy under- taking as it might appear, as there were several other rich collectors who had also determined to get them. Miss Green has told somewhere how she managed to outwit Mr. Morgan’s rivals. “TI said to my lord, “Mr. Morgan offers you this,’ naming a goodly sum. Oh, it was a hard and trying moment! I felt that there were members of the family who eyed me suspiciously. Pos- sibly, they did not like the way I was dressed—they were so staid and prim. Now, at a sale, there are many factors to consider. When Mr. Morgan wants a book, he pays cash for it. My lord, (Continued on page 134)

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The Crawling Over — Days Are Gone E might as well be frank about it. Everybody knows it’s so. The country is full of people who spend a lot of time crawling over each other trying to get in and out of two door enclosed cars. Likewise, thousands who used to drive big bulky cars got tired of feeling like chauf- feurs driving a bus. That’s why the new Jordan Four Door Brougham has caught the public fancy. JORDA

<O- RDS ASN MEG TO R= = uC 0 MERA NY, =. Gne. Chewetand, “Ohio”

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ay a] SOLID SILVER | we Srecious th rough the Ayes Ae Seea VER since the world was young, Solid Silver has been the § pride of Kings. And ‘today it remains supreme — symbol of all that is finest and best. So Solid Silver is admittedly the wedding or anniversary gift beyond compare. A wise gift too, for a few pieces of a single Towle pattern can be gradually increased to build up a full and perfectly matched silver service. In Towle designs you find the ergy beauty that a lifetime gift demands. Fashioned only of “Sterling” Silver which, unlike plated ware, is real Solid Silver all the way through. Ask your jeweler to show you the Virginia ——. - the Lady Mary (here pictured less than actual size), bo distinctive Towle patterns. Write for Booklet No. 411. Three pieces from the Virginia Carvel Tea Set Pao ws Ee. Ryonared Solid Sibver for os

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I / ij eee oo oe them to the fender cadence °) da lulla October 1 f And non great longing, & S'S wonderful little contrivance, ae ve duola. Withit can use a great c io voice as my own swelling y sfO Jull power as ie uo h I sto od rand Opera stage, or softening i 4 4 © a «hyn a fs fascin J ©, Period Aeolian-Vocalion Italian Console Model in Shaded Walnut Established 1865

The luxury of the finest in quality and appearance FRANK BROTHERS Fifth Avenue Boot Shop Between 47th and 48th Streets, New York BOSTOX, ST LOUIS Little Building Arcade Buildi WASHINGTON EXHIBIT cacgo Woodward Bldg opp. S H OPS Bonk Bldg & Savings Shoreham Hotel NEW HAVER PITTSBURGH Hotel Taft Jenkins Arcade We have no agencies- Our Shoes are sold in our ow Shops only (@lentac e)! exe letsice eigen bale! ] beauty eerea. but those long versed in musical instrument buildiig could obtain. Period Vocalions are priced from $150 Convenient terms The - es NNO TAN D 4 LONDON PAR MELBOURNE YDNEY IS : ; Descriptive catalog of Period Vocations sent upon ‘req to Department G if Hh lg | for your Draperies, Furniture, Walls ~ GUARANTEED + ed Silky Sunfast Fabrics “T can not believe it is the same room.” This remark is heard often. For KAPOCK gives atmosphere and distinction to even the most commonplace setting. With all its richness of appearance, KAPOCK is an economical fabric. Its double width permits splitting, and it is sunfast, tubfast and durable. The ideal silky fabric for all decorative purposes. Send 1(c in cash for New Drapery KAPOCK SKETCH BOO® Beautifully illustrated in colors A. THEO. ABBOTT & CO. Tept. D F hiladelphia, Pa. | Be sure it’s KAPOCK. Genuinc has name on selvage.—> uesk

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130 «Millinery Furs ae eo ae. he t The Ritz “You knew it was a ‘SALLY MILGRIM?’ I don’t wonder, Mildred dear—for few creations are quite so distingue, so charmingly individual!” Presenting Simultaneous.y The ORIGINAL SALLY MILGRIM CREATIONS At The MILGRIM SALONS: NEW YORK & CHICAGO As well as at the Foremost Store in each city— Name on request. LOOK FOR THE AUTHENTIC LABEL: IMILGRIM NEW YORK CHICAGO PARIS In CHICAGO, 600 Michigan Boulevard South House of MILGRIM New York THE COLLECT | | | (Continued times extend below the knees, where a circular frill of the same material as the coat completes them. Then there are “ensembles,” or dresses and coats designed to be worn together. The dresses are frequently of soft mate- rials such as heavy silk or satin crépe. Velvet and finely patterned brocades are also used for them. Many of the coats are entirely embroidered or made of richly figured materials. All are fur trimmed, some with a deep band cut so as to give flare at the hem. Evening dresses are of two types: those that are simple in cut with rather short skirts, depending on the richness of their material for their effect; and the more elaborate gowns of velvet, metal brocades, and brilliant embroi- deries. The handsomest ones have evening wraps to match, lavishly fur trimmed. Materials include English tweeds, jerseys, and plaids, for sports wear; woollen velvet, grain de poudre, and other woollens, for tailleurs and coat- ruarLiPPeE N the morning costumes of Philippe et Gaston, plain skirts and jackets give an almost uniformly straight silhouette, notwithstanding the pres- ence of a few godets in front, which tend towards a bulkier and more elab- orate line. Three-piece suits for after- noon have three-quarter coats. The waist-line is returning to a normal po- sition with this house; sleeves flare at the ends; and very tight collars mount higher. Some dresses show horizontal tucks from the shoulder to the hem- line. In the evening, the straight line is almost entirely forsaken in favour of the tight-fitting corsage and the skirt adorned with very full volants super- posed in Second Empire fashion. The favoured fabrics for morning dresses and tailleurs are velours de laine and broadcloth; velvet predominates in the afternoon, notably a new Meyer creation called “velours de Smyrne,” which is pricked in fantastic designs. A few satins and satin crépes are used and also some satins quilted or with matelassé effects in conventional de- signs. Evening gowns, unlike those of the other collections, are developed in delicate lace, tulle, or taffeta, very few VOGUE ION OF PATOU from page 122) dresses; silk crépes, satin crépes (both sides being employed), and, particu- larly, silk velvet, combined with silk and silk metal brocades or brilliant embroideries, for afternoon dresses; vel- vet and rich brocades, cut with plain bodices and flaring fur-banded skirts or slenderly draped, for evening. For daytime wear, dull browns, dead- leaf. shades, dark green, and black with colour—especially black velvet with grey or brown fox—, all are seen here. For evening, light colours and black combined with colour or embroidered in scintillating effects, the new copper colour, and brilliant colours in com- bination with dark ones are shown. Patou uses as trimming furs—includ- ing brown and grey Persian lamb, Canadian wolf, badger, and many light furs—, embroideries, especially in Chinese patterns, and some sun pleat- ing in godets. Now and then, daytime frocks have bright collars. Waist-lines are at the top of the hips. Sleeves are usually long and tight. EI GASTON lamés being in evidence at this house. Long-haired furs, such as natural opossum, lynx, fox, hare, and unclipped rabbit, predominate for trimmings. For colours, beige and marron are the most used for morning, while after- noon frocks have a wide choice be- tween téte de négre, dark, vivid, or parrot-green, rust colour, brilliant blue, or black. The evening shades most favoured are a rosy pink, white, and an occasional blue. The models in this collection ac- knowledge the influence of a wide va- riety of countries and epochs: China in the embroideries; Russia in a few fur-trimmed coats; Brittany in the cut of embroidered boleros; the Second Empire in the method of placing ful- ness in the rear. Together with these long-established tendencies, we find important novelties in embroideries de- picting old fables and legends, the agreeable contrast of black fabric and white fur trimming, the use of fur in breastplate effect on the revers of cer- tain wraps, blue lace trimmings, and fabrics cut and pieced in geometric effects—all of which makes a remark- able collection of new details. We think we can say next issue of Vogue esp there are still other m and why? What are will tell you. with a gratifying meas- ure of assurance that you are going to like the ecially well. It will be the Paris Fashions Number, dated October 15— the one that will be waiting for you on the news-stands by October 10. It will give you the very last word in winter fashions, featuring the great collections of the great Paris couturiers. Once the delightful problem of the winter wardrobe is finally settled—and even the débu- tante and the bride are included in the plans—, atters to think about. Would you like to know what modern art is the most worth while plays and who are the new foreign artistes coming to America? The next number of Vogue

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oth cu- silk ant el- ain d- October 1 The New Panel Back Treotex Treo Girdle The new Treotex Treo Gir- dle Models are designed for the heavier figure, which seeks the comfort so long enjoyed in the Treo Girdle by women of slender and medium figure, Note the Pan- el Back in illustration above —it flattens the figure at the back into the new silhouette. Ask for “Treotex” Treo Girdles if yours is above-the- average figure! HE TREO Elastic Girdle, which made possible present- day modes, has found new and even more exquisite expres- sion in its latest models of “Treotex.’’ This newly-invented surgical elastic web, upon which its creators worked for years, enables all women, of whatever type of figure, to enjoy the figure-freedom and dress distinction that only the Treo Elastic Girdle imparts. Women of fashion, corsetieres, designers accept the Treo Girdle as completely meeting every corset requirement. The “Anchor Band’’ (the waist line band) which holds the girdle to the figure and prevents it from slipping; the ““Feature Strip’’ (the strip above the waist line), which supports the back and restrains the diaphragm, and the new “Panel Back,” which flattens the back into the new silhouette, are features to be found only in the T'reo Girdle, The Original All-Elastic Corset. Be sure to demand the Treo model which was made for your type of figure. Prices: Treo Girdles, in lighter surgical web, $3 to $10; Treo Girdles of mercerized Treotex surgical web, $5.50 to $10; Treo Girdles of silk Treotex surgical web, $12.50 to $25. Your dealer will be very glad to give you a fitting. Write for illustrated booklet. TREO COMPANY, Inc., 267 Fifth Avenue, New York City Great Britain: Distributing Corporation, Ltd., 60 Wilson St., Finsbury Sq., London, E. C. 4 Canada: Eisman ® Co., 9 Temperance St., Toronto fi ae 2 ifaw LE ‘The cAll-élastic Corset The more elastic to the corset—the more grace to the figure ‘There is no spread like the Dolly Madison” [ DRESS up your bed with a Dolly Madison Bed Spread and see what a difference it makes in the room. t Draperies and other decorations of ; this same Dolly Madison Crinkle Cloth will add to the charming effect. In lovely color combinations. This beautiful fabric is easily washed, requires no ironing, and retains its lustre and coloring. But you must get the genuine, which has the label sewn in the corner. Dolly Madison Spreads are sold at the better stores. If your dealer can't supply you, send us his name and ask for illustrated booklzt. For 25c we will send you a cunning dolly's bed spread. GEORGE ROYLE & CO., Manufacturers Frankford, Philadelphia Decorati + Material toM. ch

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at the top of the hips; sleeves remain practically unchanged; neck-lines show some variety. Materials are varied and include a great deal of jersey in mottled two- tone effects and in the new weave called “jersey mousseux,” which is like the finest possible sort of Turkish towelling with a jersey background. It is developed sometimes in silk, some- times in metal, sometimes frosted with both. Much velvet is used for every daytime occasion, while large-flowered brocades are offered for evening. Fine one side as high as the hip or even as the waist-line is frequently employed. A spiral movement is noted in several striking models. Occasionally, sun pleats are inserted at the sides of skirts. In many models of this collec- tion, there is flare at the sides of skirts, always beginning low. Velvet, almost invariably fur trimmed, frequently makes the long or three-quarter straight coat for daytime wear. This is worn over a velvet frock which has some fulness, or over a vel- vet skirt with an attached crépe blouse, which is sometimes in another

THE COLLECTION OF PAUL CARET (Continued from page 53) VOGUE THE COLLECTION OF LELONG (Continued from page 124) black lace also makes its appearance in evening gowns. For semi-sports clothes, Lelong exhibits not a little partiality to plaided fabrics, and plain woollens embroidered with cross-stitch patterns are also favourites. Trimmings include heavy wool em- broidery—done apparently on canvas and often used for facings—, plaids, Chinese embroideries, furs, or even, in the case of one cape, linings of blocks of clipped feathers. Bead fringes and bright wool or chenille embroideries are important in this collection.

colour. Shiny materials, often with edges bound in ciré, have been used a good deal by Paul Caret. Colours include a new dark delft blue, called bleu poudre, beaver, put- ty, the caramel shades, some reds, and blacks, trimmed with coloured fur o: combined with brilliant colour. Fo: evening, a favourite combination i: black and silver. Several models ar made of wide-striped material in which a gold or silver stripe alternates with a colour. Brilliant embroideries ar frequently employed here, with com- mendable ingenuity. THE JEANNE HALLEE COLLECTION HE most striking silhouette of I the collection of Jeanne Hallée is that of the model shown in the sketch on page 62. A long, fur-banded. tunic-like coat flares below the knee over a narrow underskirt. The larg¢ fur collar is worn closed or open, and the sleeves are long and tight. These coat-dresses, of which there are several versions, slip over the head. In this house, however, the silhouette is extremely varied. Tailleurs have hip- length coats flaring at the sides, three- quarter coats, either tube-like or flaring at the sides, and short coats making one line with the narrow skirt or flaring below the waist-line in the front only. Hallée shows gowns that are full in front and plain in back, as well as the reverse—a tiered back with a plain front. The long coats worn over a dress to complete a costume are per- fectly straight or flaring on the sides at the hem, with, now and then, a sug- gestion of the 1880 movement in back. Evening gowns sometimes illustrate the 1880 tendency. A few straight models for evening, elaborately embroi- dered, have a belt which appears in the back only, running through slits at the sides and continuing into a narrow train or a hanging panel. Other evening models are draped. _ The waist-line, when it exists at all. is at the top of the hip. Sleeves and neck-lines remain unchanged. Much cinnamon-brown and _ some green, for daytime, and many shades of blue and some orange, for evening. are the predominating colours in this house. Colour combinations, such as red and black, black and white, brown and orange, are shown in models for all times of the day. Sometimes, the coat is in one colour and the skirt in another (frequently black), and the blouse is made in a thin material t match the coat and is often embroi- dered. Trimmings include bright coloured embroideries—Chinese, chenille, and the new dull paillettes—, bands in fringe and shaggy effects, and some fur. especially the new fur that is stripped from its skin and set in rubber, and shaved lamb.

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October Il J LIZABETHAN ENGLAND REVELED IN COSTUMES OF VARI-COLORED SILKS LONDON in the time of good Queen Bess presented a pageant of costumes — fine ladies in high-standing ruffs, tight bodices, billowing skirts and gay gallants wearing knee breeches and slashed doublets faced with bright colors. The silk merchants whose stalls sheltered in the shadow of old St. Paul’s did a thriving trade in rich silks from distant ports but woe to him whose silks or services displeased a nthe noble—the Tower was wont to loom up ominously efore him! Nowadays, silks are no longer fabrics for the few, modern manufacture brings their beauty within reach of the most modest wardrobe, and any American woman may boast a wider range of choice than could Queen Elizabeth herself. But even today fine silks are not to be found in every shop, and the woman who would be sure—in advance—of enduring quality will ask for, and buy, only silks with the name“ Belding’s” woven in the sel- vage. There are Belding’s Silks for every purpose—gowns, linings, lin- gerie—your whole wardrobe should be made of these splendid silks. Belding Bros. & Company, 902 Broadway, New York City . Beldino’s~ c fabrics, Gmbroidery, Spool Silks a , HES — wl U Jt Y ¥ ms 10 \ ae ‘ 2 a jq ast-and most important —The ‘Dress Shields BE sure there are Kleinert’s Dress Shields in your frock the very first time you wear it—the dainty freshness of a new garment is easier to keep than to restore. There are Kleinert’s Shields to suit every gown and every occasion—all of them as easily laundered as a handkerchief. When wide armholes make it difficult to sew in shields, use Kleinert’s Dress Shield Guimpe of sheerest net in slip-over style; or a Kleinert’s Fitted Lining with shields which are buttoned in and may be laundered separately. If you are particular to ask for and find the name “Kleinert’s” on the shields, you can feel confident that they will really protect your gowns. Of net, Kleinert’s slip-over Dress style, with Shield white or : flesh color Cnine shields REG. U.S. PAT. OFF a 1, B. KLEINERT RUBBER CO., New York City Canadian Office: 84 Wellington Street, West, Toronto m SS ee SK or — or 0

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should he accede to my request, should have a check immediately. But, should Mr. Morgan withdraw from a sale, the effect would be that the bidding would not reach the high figures wanted. All these conditions I have to emphasize when I must have a thing. “Well, the night before the sale, when I was anxiously waiting my answer, I was given a dinner by the London bookmen. I have many friends at the British Museum who were anxiously wat¢hing what I would do on the morrow. One of them turned to me during the evening: ‘Miss Green,’ he said, ‘Will you promise me that in the morning you will not bid against me for such and such a Caxton?’ I was on the qui vive, waiting for my telegram which would tell me whether or not I had swept the collection from under the hammer. As luck would have it, just before I replied, the mis- sive was placed in my hands. I read the gladdening news. Our offer had been accepted. ‘Yes,’ I said, ‘I’ll prom- ise not to bid against you at the sale to-morrow.’ ” There has never been a time in this country when the opportunity for pick- ing up book-treasures has been so great. The disturbed condition all over the world, resulting from the Great War, has forced a great number of remark- able collections into the market, and American book-lovers have been quick to take advantage of the situation, knowing that such an opportunity will probably never come to them again. There was a time, only a few years ago in fact, when London was the happy hunting-ground of the bibliophile, but the British capital must now look to her laurels, for New York is rapidly outstripping her as a book-buyers’ par- adise. One realizes how important our metropolis has become as a rare-book market, when one notes the ever-in- creasing number of English and French collectors who come to our shores to attend the auction sales. FOR CONSERVATIVE COLLECTORS Our most important dealers are catering more and more of late to what is called the middle-class trade; that is, to those who have a taste for book-col- lecting, but who are not able to spend large sums on their hobby. People of moderate means will find much to in- trigue them in the various rare-book shops of our larger cities. First edi- tions of Hardy. Stevenson, Kipling, Conrad, Masefield. and Rupert Brooke are very popular among conservative buyers and are becoming scarcer and scarcer every day. It is safe to pro- phesy that, in four or five years, these books will be obtainable only at fancy prices. If one’s pocketbook is not ample enough to allow one to invest in these authors, one may turn his atten- tion to the younger writers like D. H. Lawrence, Katharine Mansfield. Ronald VOGUE THE CASE FOR RARE BOOKS (Continued from page 128) Firbank, and Siegfried Sassoon. First editions of Whitman, Poe, Melville, and QO. Henry already command high prices and are steadily going up. If the collector feels that he can not afford to make complete collections of these authors, he may turn his attention to our contemporary writers, Edith Whar- ton, Tarkington, Cabell, Hergesheimer, and Edwin Arlington Robinson. MAKING INTEREST THE BASIS The question usually asked by the would-be collector is, “What sort of books shall I collect?” Collect books in which you are interested. If you have a weakness for beautiful bindings, start your collection with some good example of the binder’s art. To be able to judge of what is desirable along this line, one should visit the libraries and rare-book shops where ex- amples of fine bindings are displayed. Read authoritative books on the sub- ject and, if possible, find a good crafts- man to explain to you the entire process of bookbinding. If you are a lover of English poetry, become informed as to the bibliography of the poets whose works you desire to own. An obliging dealer will instruct you as to approxi- mate values, how to recognize a first edition, and so forth. If you have a patriotic flair, collect Americana; or, if you have a passion for the Orient, buy Orientala. A collection formed in this way is sure to be an ever-increas- ing delight. The beginner should dismiss at once from his mind all thought of pecuniary gain through a rise in prices and gath- er his treasures only because of their cultural value and for personal use. If he looks upon collecting as a speculat- ing game, he is pretty sure to come to grief. John Hill Burton says: “If the book-hunter allows money-making to be combined with his pursuit, it loses its fresh relish, its exhilarating influ- ence, and becomes the source of wretched cares and paltry anxieties. No good ever comes of gentlemen ama- teurs buying and selling. They will either be systematic losers, or they will acquire shabby, questionable habits from which the professional dealers, on whom they look down, are perhaps exempt.” Buy with cool judgment, with defi- nite aim and system, always being on guard against the fads of the day. Ex- perience will tell where the book one wants is to be found and where it may be obtained at the most reasonable price. Probably the safest method for the tiro is to buy through a reliable dealer, who will often be glad to co operate in many ways. If one is apt and enthusiastic, one learns quickly, so that it will not be very long before he is competent to buy in any market —even in the ceckpit of the auction room. SHERRIL SCHELL.

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As] October l 135 NESTLE’S of New York | Is the Mecca of Fashionable Women| | Desiring the New Improved LANOIL Permanent Wave Long waves, short waves, fascinating ring- lets, intriguing curls— Nestle’s experts cater to every taste, and give satisfying results on hair of every colorand 4% texture. le for wrinkles, for coarseness, for every fault of the skin \ Elizabeth Arden has created a special Hair Greatly Improved by treatment that is scientific and effective Waving Treatments Here | Mr. Nestle, original inventor | NO matter what your particular little bother—wrinkles about the eyes of permanent waving and the and mouth. enlarged pores on the nose and chin, or tired muscles ec c that have sagged and spoiled the delicate contour of the face—Elizabeth famous LANOIL P Tocess Arden has the treatment and the preparations to remedy them. through thousands of experiments She has found that every fault of complexion, or of aging facial contour has a separate with small samples of every cause, and has worked out slowly and scientifically the particular treatment and the known hair variety, has brought | particular preparation to cure the cause. She has found how to firm and nourish the muscles into vigorous health—and to make lines, wrinkles and drooping flesh disappear. the LANOIL Process as applied under his supervision IN THIS She has worked out ways of arousing the circulation that brings freshness and gicwing ESTABLISHMENT to a de- | color to the whole face. gree of perfection never before Elizabeth Arden has found no skin fault—coarse, rough skin, large pores, blackheads, wrinkles, sallowness, sagging muscles in cheeks or chin or throat—that will not yield to her particular treatment and to the scientific preparation she has created for each condition. Her smart Salons in London, Paris, New York and other cities are con- stantly filled with fashionable women. To each of them she gives a loveliness of skin JO UTTERLY de- void of any danger whatever to hair or attained. | they had not believed possible until they began her treatments scalp, so comfort- He is in constant consultation BUT cog if ew eigen ha Salon, yon on DY J ) a" : | enjoy the privilege o izabet. rden § personal advice anc —_- : able, so quick, so on the head of every patron, with the wonderful benefits of her specialized preparations. If you Nora happily natural looking are the the RESULT that the hair be- | po ery to ——— — Fog ip. wee a — Ore ») a) i : ° aults of your skin, she will reply by personal letter outlining the rae eet perfect waves given by Mr. comes stronger, healthier and correct treatment of your complexion. You will also receive a copy (OS gE) Nestle and his perscnally trained more elastic after the LANOIL of Miss Arden’s book, “The Quest of the Beautiful.” sees / staff here that you meet our pa- treatment than before. Elizabeth Arden has just produced her famous Exercises for ¥ d he d Health and Beauty in the form of records. If you wish to nor- } trons every day—at the dance, at P malize your weight, correct depression, nervousness, develop poise | the theatre or at the country club *‘A Pleasant Enjoyable oo figure, write for booklet, describing these wonderful —and you think their lovely soft healthy curls and waves are natu- ral—nct permanent waved. We have often been asked why we do not publish the names and photographs cf the many celebrated society, business and stage women who favor us with their patrcnage. The answer is simple. The world knows our patrons as naturally wavy. No one suspects their exquisite waves, curls and ringlets, because they have a natural, not a “permanent- waved” look. Experience’’ Is Patrons’ Verdict Only at the hands of the in- ventor with his background of lifelong experience, and his staff of keenly trained experts, can such thankful results be assured. Let Nestle’s relieve you for many months to come of the troubles of straight hair. They make every waving a pleasant, enjoyable ex- | perience—and they cordially in- vite you to number ycurself among their long, interesting and distinguished list of delighted patrons. An interesting booklet explaining Nestle LANOIL Waving is gladlyjsent on request NESTLE’S 12 and 14 East 49th Street, New York City Fust off Fifth Avenue Phones: Vanderbilt 7660—1-2-3-4 Important stimulating and nourishing preparations for the daily treatment of the skin Venetian Cleansing Cream. Pure, soft, melting. Penetrates the pores, dissolves and dislodges all impurities. Supplies the natural oils of the skin, keeps it smooth and supple. Use morning and night and after exposure to keep the skin smooth, clear and soft. $1, $2, $3. Venetian Ardena Skin Tonic. Gentle bleach and astringent. Tones, firms and whitens the skin. Use with and after Cleansing Cream, to keep the skin cells active and healthy. $.85, $2, $3.75. Venetian Orange Skin Food. Best deep tissue builder. Excellent for a thin, out- lined or aging face. Nourishes the skin, keeps it smooth and full. $1, $1.75, $2.75. Venetian Velva Cream. A perfect skin food for a full face. Refines and softens the skin, without fattening. $1, $2, $3 Venetian Pore Cream. Greaseless astringent cream, closes open pores, corrects their laxness, refines the coarsest skin. $1, $2.50. Venetian Anti-Wrinkle Cream. Delightful for a quick afternoon treatment at home. Nourishing and astringent, it softens and smooths the skin and tightens it. Leaves the face velvety and fresh. $2, $3.50. Poudre d’Illusion. Exquisite powder of immaculate peat. Fine, adherent. A xs perfect peach-like flesh tint, a warmer Rachel and White. Postage paid on Mail Orders exceeding $10 ELIZABETH ARDEN 673-B FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK London, 25 Old Bond Street Boston, 192 Boylston Street Detroit, 318 Book Building San Francisco, 233 Grant Ave. Washington, 1147 Connecticut Ave. Southampton, L.I., Culver Hill Newport, 184 Bellevue Ave. Paris, 2 rue de la Paix Arden Venetian Preparations are also on sale at more than 600 smart shops in the United States

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DEAUVILLE (above)- A new Fall style in Pat- ent Leather trimmed with Black Ooze Calf, and made with flexible sole and Paris Louis wood heel. $10.50. is your assurance of Perfect Style Perfect Fit _ Perfect Service ; Y, Perfect — TOSCA (at left) is a particularly good style for street wear, presented in the new Autumn Brown Kangaroo Ooze with matching Calf trim. 9.50 MINUET (above)— A dainty cross-strap shoe of Patent Leather with baby Gun Metal Calf trimming; made_ with flexible sole and Paris Louis wood heel. $12. Style Fror every requirement of fashion, every type of foot and occasion of wear, “‘Queen Quality” shoe creations reflect all the niceties of correct design, fine materials and tested fitting quality—the essence of satisfaction in footwear. An illustrated booklet of selections from the many new “Queen Quality” styles for women, misses and children will be mailed on request THOMAS G. PLANT COMPANY, <ACakers 93 BickForD STREET, BosTON 20, Mass. _— sued Boot Shops New York . . . . 32-34 West 34th Street Boston ... . . . . . +. + 158 Tremont Street eee ee ee 4010 Sheridan Road Detroit. . . . . . . +. +1417 Woodward Avenue Louisville . . . . . . . §36 South Fourth Street et eos om ig eh og 235 Fifth Avenue Toledo eee, it eh ee e/a 501 Adams Street San Francisco ee 214 Post Street Washington . 1219 F Street, N. W. Queen Quality ete Cincinnati... . . Jos. Pietzuch Co. Cleveland oe ee ww ee RII res "SM ere eee . Brandt's, Inc. Los Angeles . Broadway Dept. Store, Inc. AND AT OTHER LEADING STORES THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY

VOGUE A WESTERN ARTIST Francis McComas Has Taken His Place with the Best Painters By MARY CASS CANFIELD ANET once said that the only two valid art criticisms were a deep “Ah!” of pleasure or a shrug of indifference. It is certainly true that, whether we know it or not, beauty is what we seek in a work of art, and, when all discussion as to methods, planes, values, and the rest is over, we turn again in silence to the creations that somehow have captured beauty and we forget those that have not. It is by this simple test of en- joyment that one’s consciousness be- comes aware of the water-colours of Francis McComas. Francis McComas, an Australian by birth, but for many years past a resi- dent of California, is undoubtedly the most distinguished of our Western artists. He is among the significant American landscape painters and is a highly individual master of the diffi- cult art of water-colour. A group of his Arizona landscapes was shown at the Gimpel and Wildenstein Gallery, New York, and received praise from the most discriminating of the critics. McComas works by preference in water-colour, perhaps instinctively feel- ing that this medium, by virtue of its delicacy and limpidity, is the best ve- hicle for the expression of his essentially lyric temperament. Students of the art of aquarelle will be impressed by his skill in rendering atmosphere and light and will ponder upon a technique that achieves in water-colour the har- monious solidity of oils. MCCOMAS’S CHARCOAL SKETCHES McComas’s charcoal sketches—notes taken during his journeys on _horse- back across the mesas of Arizona and constituting the preliminary studies on which he bases his finished paintings— are bold and satisfying. In the very imminent sky of the desert, full of un- expected hues and changeable as a chameleon, McComas finds truthful foundation for his opalescent harmonies; and the citadels of stone which shoul- der up into his always sensitively felt sky-line, varying, as they do, from uncanny blood-red to more usual greys and browns, provide him with excellent foils for his atmospheric tones. McComas’s enthusiasm __ for form, which, as exemplified in his dynamic rocks, has a sculptor’s intensity, and his sympathetic observation of light prove him to be actually a realist; but there is an imaginative quality, a cer- tain extravagance in him, which has demanded extraordinary subjects for his brush, bizarre outlines, and colour pitched in a startlingly high key. He has found them in the fantastic coun- try set down on the map as the An- zona desert. Although he is a loving student of trees and has produced many vigorous, yet poetic, renderings of the live-oaks and eucalyptus of California, or the cypresses of Greece, McComas is spiritually most at home, it would seem, on the Arizona plateau, with its infinite stretches of sand, its sudden, mysterious ramparts of scarlet rock spired like cathedrals—huge ceno- taphs, one would say, to a fallen race of demigods—, its immense luminous skies, and its terrifying calm. All this beauty of the desert has become his. In his pictures, we feel the silence of lost canyons untouched for centuries by a human foot, the curious loneliness of cave-dwellings perched high in the faces of formidable cliffs, the tremendous breadth and bareness of a region which, more than any other, seems the top of the world. His in- terpretation of the great West is sin- gularly right, subtle, and impassioned. It is a corrective to the Frederic Rem- ington “two pence coloured, penny plain” type of thing, in which the popularity of conception is only equalled by the mediocrity of method. HIS FUTURE McComas has lately gained in sure- ness and freedom, and his water-colour contains more than a suggestion of John Sargent’s brilliance in the same medium. Charm of composition and colour, acuity of drawing, and poetry of conception he has always had. They are part of his artistic and intellectual baggage. The next few years, however, may see in him an even greater de- velopment of power. But it is obvious that an increase in forcefulness will not, with him, entail that excursion into the eccentric and formless which, in these days of bewildered esthetic groping, seems so often to follow an artist’s advance in self-confidence. For, although he is original and alive, responsive to modern art, and the organizer at San Francisco, just after the Panama Pacific Exposition, of one of the most representative shows of contemporary work ever held, yet, deep in his painting, there is a very real continuance of classic tradition. He is neither a reactionary nor an iconoclast; he has reverence together with initiative. His work, produced in solitude, is free from the impatience and confusion of harassed city-dwelling painters; and, out of his detachment, his taste, and his mature talent, we are entitled to expect fine things.

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October 1 in- re ng ed gs of e, e, u, ts et ~ e 1S ‘ | oe 66 ” : ag ‘The Barton’ — yr 1} ie Hin HH - rt 4 Berkey & Gay Suite : ! t | a a . - forthe Dining Room . Tear 1 UILT of beautifully figured mahogany i Wl | with bands of fiddleback, designed in s Peer t apure Heppelwhite manner, ““The Barton” . possesses that aristocratic reserve so loved qe by the old masters. Quiet and elegant, Ir i simple and rich, dignified and yet hospi- Lf a tably inviting—“The Barton” in your | ’ : ‘ dining room will bespeak your good taste to all who see it. Its chaste lines and fine proportions, the graceful curve of the sideboard, blend with the beauty of the mahogany to give an air of unmistakable distinction. Spacious pro- vision for linens, silver, and china adds the charm of unusual convenience to that of beauty. For three generations, the ideal of Hep- pelwhite—to make the useful beautiful— has guided Berkey & Gay craftsmen. Naturally, their productions, even as his, have a genuineness, a lasting worth, that makes them treasured. Yet, they are not expensive. Any home of refinement can afford “The Barton.” The following uniform prices are as low as true economy will permit you to pay. To them your Berkey & Gay merchant adds freight charges. every Baker & Gay pre, Sideboard ... $125 Serving Table . $45 er's protection when buy. China Cabinet. . $80 Armchair .. . $30 owes §€6Maing Tobie... 995 Chile... ... $24 The interest you will wish your dining room to hold through the long winter months just ahead, makes “The Barton” doubly attractive at this time. Brochure describing this suite, together with the name of your nearest Berkey & Gay New York Wholesale merchant, sent on request. Write for it. Showroom: 115 West 40th Street (Admittance by letter from your merchant or decorator) Berkey &6 Gay FURNITURE BerRKEY & Gay FurRNiITuRE COMPANY 450 MONROE AVENUE, GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN a ee S SRLIOSE nek) Wan Gane San Dae WORE ID GR Dan Dan aman Don ROSE TOS) SOS ORO AY, NOY, OE) WOS 6 - . vw Www Ane) b>, = cas LE CHICK-CHICK A NEW VIGNY ODOR ALREADY POPULAR The master perfumer of Paris has created perfumes whose wizardly odors carry one over piebald valleys of scent-bearing flowers, into the dreamy illusion of princely courts, permeating milady’s presence with a mysterious lingering, and a subtly enticing charm, while the vari-colored containers and crystal flacons grace the boudoir with the masterpieces of the fore- most French artists. “GOLLIWOGG”’ The Lucky Little Feller The Charming Perfume in the Bizarre Bottle, which is smiling on thousands of boudoir tables. Vigny Odors can be obtained in Powders, Talcums, Sachets and Toilet Waters at all good dealers. “Lionel Double Compact” “Lionette” Bevel Mirror, Rouge and Pow- Vigny Odors Frost- der, on one level ......... $1.50 cine «: Lionel Square Compact. Opens ed Fl&cons with Silk and closes with snap..... $1.00 Tassel....... $1.00 Vigny Odors If not at your dealer's, write direct to LIONEL TRADING COMPANY, Inc., 320 Fifth Avenue New York City U. S. Distributors Se ORO CON OT CONE CONES OV SEO COWES COW CO SO ESE EY EN 7 wr NA wy Of MON yCey PAS 4 Ce Wea s AA eS « ye Aaa ye Siw COVES pe — PRINS IAN) ‘\ Vielen ; SET i. Seas RAS) IRAN IRA ~ ¥

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Agatha Wood Suede, Brown Calf trimmed, Black Suede, Patent trim- med. Brown Suede, ge gg $11.85 Bellevue Patent Leather, Wood Suede, Black Suede, Brown ek 8123.50 BELLEVUE Write for Peacock season. it brings to you the accepted Pea- cock Models for Autumn— The smartest innovations that Fifth Avenue has approved for the new It enables you to select your Autumn footwear with the same assurance of absolute satisfac- tion that you would enjoy through a personal visit to our New York Salons. Send for your copy of the “Peacock Style Book” to-day—! Gate a 26ACOCK SH Art ir Shoes AGATHA Bazar Patent Leather, Wood Shade Suede, pn Ot 954 00 London 7 West Glad St at Fifth Avenue gi » B ifth Avenue’s Smartest Models— Parisian Inspirations — exclusive Peacock In- novations! Price never beyond the most con- servative. Absolute satisfaction assured by mail! Hawthorne Mandalay Brown, Black Suede, Wood Suede, Squirrel Grey Suede. Trim- med to match. .. $10.85 BAZAR Style Book 7 Arts London: 309 Oxford St. OP NY reader can obtain from the Vogue Information Service an- swers to questions on social con- ventions, customs, entertaining, and matters of etiquette; on costume and fashion, on household decoration, on shops and wholesale houses dealing in merchandise of interest to Vogue read- ers, and on other subjects that fall within the scope of this magazine, by conforming to the following regulations. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS (1) The name and address must be legibly written or printed at the begin- ning or end of every letter. (2) In order to answer all inquiries promptly, it is suggested that as few questions as possible be asked in any one letter; a reply may be delayed be- cause of the totally unrelated questions contained in a letter, any one of which may require a considerable amount of research to answer it adequately. (3) Unless especially requested to keep a reply confidential, Vogue is priv- ileged to publish any inquiry and an- swer that it considers of interest to its readers. Mrs. H. J. M.: Would you be kind enough to forward me the recipe for mousse of Virginia ham? Ans.: A wet mould is coated with aspic and allowed to set. Then to one pound of cold, boiled ham, which has been put through the meat-chopper, are added a tablespoonful of Worces- tershire sauce, a_ tablespoonful of chutney syrup, four tablespoonfuls of liquid aspic, and two cupfuls of whipped cream. ‘This mixture is beaten well, poured into the mould, and covered with a layer of the aspic. For serving, the mousse is turned out of the mould and garnished with parsley and radish roses. Miss M. B.: I am to be married this autumn, and do not want to wear the conventional bridal costume, yet I do not find a tailored suit becoming. Would it be correct to wear an attrac- tive light afternoon dress, with a large hat to harmonize? Instead of the usual attendants, I should like to have a little boy and a little girl. There are to be four ushers. May I have them lead the procession as at a more for- mal wedding? | | | | Ans.: At a small, informal wedding, it is quite usual for the bride to wear an afternoon dress in some soft colour and a large hat and to carry either a prayer-book or a bouquet of the cor- sage typé. Such a costume is always more becoming and more attractive in every way than a suit. Generally, at an informal wedding, there is one attendant of honour, but there are no bridesmaids or flower girls. I think, if you prefer it, you might have a flower girl instead of a maid of honour. Little boys are usually pages or ring- bearers and are seen only in rather elaborate wedding processions. You might have a boy to carry flowers, but it would be better to keep the affair as simple as possible. If your plans are already made, you will probably | not want to change them, but it will seem a little incongruous to have four men standing at the altar, with no bride’s attendants except one or two very small children. Why not have the ushers simply take their places in a pew reserved for them? There should be a best man, but four ushers seem too many for a small wedding. | It would be better not to have any. | Miss R. C.: Is it necessary to have engraved invitations for a simple home ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS wedding? There will be about thirty guests—all relatives or intimate friends of the bride and groom. Would it be proper for the bride’s mother to write each guest an informal invitation? If so, please give the best form for such a letter. Ans.: It is quite correct, for an in- formal wedding, to use informal notes instead of engraved invitations, and they may even be written by the bride to her own friends. There is no set form that we can give you; if we should suggest any form, the letters would probably sound stilted, as it is hardly possible to adapt a form to a number of people without having it appear stereotyped. However, here is a note that you can change to suit your needs: Dear Uncle Tom: Dick and I are to be married at Saint John’s Church, East Twenty- first Street, at noon on Saturday, the fourteenth. Of course, we wish you to be there, and to come to the house afterwards for a very small breakfast and to wish us happiness. A ffectionately yours, Mary. or Dear Mrs. Slade: My daughter, Annabelle, and John Jerome are to be married very quietly at Christ Church, on Mon- day, the twenty-fourth, and we all wish you and Mr. Slade to come to the ceremony at four o'clock and afterwards to the house for a bite to eat. Hoping to see you then, Most sincerely, Mary Mortland. Mrs. C. B.: I wish to give a garden- party this autumn. Will you kindly suggest the wording of my invitations, as well as suitable refreshments and amusements? My garden is small and informal, but very lovely in the au- tumn and fairly well hidden from the street. Ans.: You might write informal notes to your friends or use your visiting- card. The visiting-card with the date, the time, and the occasion written in by hand, is a widely used form of in- vitation nowadays. Tuesday, August 4th 4to7 (Name) Tea in the Garden (Address) Refreshments may be simple or more elaborate, but it is not practical to try to serve anything like hot toast or scones. These menus are suggested: Tea Punch Assorted Sandwiches (small and thin) Small Cakes or Iced Tea Iced Chocolate Small Sandwiches Fancy Ices Cakes Candies Nuts If you have a porch suitable for danc- ing, you might let the guests dance, or you might put two or three tables on the porch for enthusiasts to play bridge or Mah-Jong, and arrange for other games on the lawn: tennis if there is a court; croquet if there is space. Archery is fascinating, and requires less space than the other two games. Mrs. S. A.: Will sweaters be worn as much as ever this year or has the overblouse taken its place to a certain (Continued on page 140)

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October 1

Know the Delights Of * The Fabric Decreed by Fashion and Utility for Every Type of Outdoor Apparel N® other article in one’s wardrobe today is as appropriate, com- fortable and practical for many uses as a coat or wrap of 100% Pure Fine Virgin Camels Hair Cloth. Nature has endowed the hair of the camel with wonderful in- sulating qualities, and Camels Hair Cloth is of all fabrics, the greatest known non-conductor of both heat and cold. Pure Camels Hair Cloth will actually shed heat in summer and, strange to say, is also a warm, cosy protection against the cold and sleet of winter. The Renaissance of 100%, Pure Camels Hair Cloth For many years after the advent of machinery, the fine, s'ender camels hair fibres defied fabrication by modern methods, and a cloth of pure camels hair continued to be made only by the ancient hand-loom method in small native villages of Northern China. After long and patient research, the Stroock mills finally evolved processes by which cloth of 100% Pure Fine Virgin Camels Hair is today made in many beautiful weaves, patterns, textures and finishes; the Stroock fabrics retaining all the merits of the ancient cloth. The camel’s fleece is a natural in- sulation against the blistering heat In the dead of winter the camel’s fleece is a com- protection

Miity Ask at your favorite department > store or specialty shop to see the latest styles of coats, wraps and suits for town, utility and sports wear now made of Stroock 100% Pure Camels Hair Cloth. Ia}

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A fascinating book, telling ‘‘ The Romance of Camels Hair Cloth” throughout the ages will be mailed upon request S. Stroock & Co.,Inc., 315 Fourth Avenue, New York This label sewed in @ garment is your guarantee that the material is pure,un- adulterated Camels Hair Cloth.

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BRIDGE PARTY, a charmingly simple afternoon tea or a formal dinner—no matter what the occasion is —the correct dress for your servants adds *to your prestige as a perfect hostess. Faultlessly correct Queen-Make uni- forms appeal to the mistress who appreci- ates their smartness of simplicity and perfect workmanship, and to the careful maid who takes pride in her service and always wishes to look her best. Nor is this all that Queen-Make Uni- forms have to recommend them. Expert tailoring insures perfect fit. The excellent quality materials assures long and satisfac- tory wear. Becoming organdy collars and cuffs are always of finest quality. Queen-Make Uniforms are distinctive for these and other practical features such as reinforcements under the arms and being reasonably priced, which makes added dignity and appearance for your household within the means of all. A correct uniform for only $6.50 No. 792 is a popular straight-line model made of black or gray soiesette; hand-drawn collar and cuffs of im- ported organdy. Sizes 34 to 46. Other correct uniforms range from $3 to $15 What (olleen Moore wrote: 0 ee ee COLLEEN MOORE 1231 SOUTH GRAMERCY PLACE LOS ANGELES nig, aa

TRADE MARK Wash Dresses Nurses’ and Maids’ Uniforms 102 Madison Ave., New York City

Ros, ws ara Seay “<i | mds Dok raatinhe ao Can, Qa cas inal Ce AIAN No. 792 Don’t you want a charming free booklet called *‘Correct Uniforms for Your Maid”? Send today for your copy of Booklet V-ror to House cf Queen Make, 102 Madison Ave., New York City,

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VOGUE PATTERN SERVICE ATTERNS may be ordered by mail from New York, or from the pattern show- room nearest you; or they may be purchased at any of the shops listed below, where books of colour sketches and lengths of the season's favoured materials are also exhibited. which you order. Sizes: ure, and 35 to 43 in. hip measure, unless otherwise specified. terns by mail, please state your size. Prices: Remittances should be made out to the store or office from Patterns are cut in sizes 34 to 42 in. bust measure, 24 to 32 in. waist meas- When ordering pat- Patterns are priced at 65 cents for each waist, short coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pattern up to and including 12 years; $1 for one-piece frocks, long coats, and long négligées. Special staple patterns are 40 cents each. Patterns May Be Bought At: AKRON, O.: The A. Polsky Co. ATLANTA, GA.: Chamberlin, John- son, DuBose Company ATLANTIC CITY, N. J.: M. E. Blatt Co., the Department Store of Atlan- tic City BALTIMORE, MD.: Hutzler Brothers paapene, or O'Neill and Company, nc. BINGHAMTON, N. Y.: Sisson Bros. —Weldon Company BLOOMINGTON, ILL.: Mayer Liv- ingston & Co. BOSTON, MASS. : R. H. Stearns Com- pany, or Jordan Marsh Company BRIDGEPORT, CONN.: The D. M. Read Company BROOKLYN, N. Y.: Abraham & Straus BUFFALO, N. Y.: Flint & Kent CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA: The De- necke Company CHARLESTON, Richardson CHARLOTTE, N. C.: J. B. Ivey & Company CHICAGO, ILL.: Carson, Pirie, Scott & Company CINCINNATI, O.: H. & S. Pogue Company CLEVELAND, O.: Halle Bros. —— O.: The F. & R. Lazarus oO. DALLAS, TEXAS: Titche-Goettinger Company DAYTON, O.: The Rike-Kumler Com- pany DENVER, COLO.: The Joslin Dry Goods Company DES MOINES, IOWA: Harris-Emery Company DETROIT, MICH.: The J. L. Hudson Company EL PASO, TEXAS: Goods Company EVANSTON, ILL.: Lord's, Fountain uare a IND.: S. G. Evans Dry Goods C GRAND RAPIDS, MICH. : Friedman- Spring Dry Goods Company GREAT FALLS, MONT.: The Paris Dry Goods Company HOUSTON, TEX.: Dry Goods Co. HUTCHINSON, KAN.: The Pegues- Wright Dry Goods Co. INDIANAPOLIS, IND.: L. S. Ayres & Company a“ paar FLA.: Cohen Broth- JOHNSTOWN, PA.: George K. Kline KALAMAZOO, MICH. : Gilmore Bros. KANSAS CITY, MoO.: John Taylor Dry Goods Co. KNOXVILLE, TENN.: Miller's LAKE CHARLES, LA.: The Muller Co., Ltd., 625 Ryan Street LANCASTER, PA.: The Donovan Co. LANSING, MICH.: J. W. Knapp Co. LINCOLN, NEBR.: Miller & Paine LITTLE ROCK, ARK.: The Gus Blass Companv LIVERPOOL,ENGLAND:Bon Marché LONDON, E. C., ENGLAND: Vogue Pattern Room, Rolls House, Breams Buildings. Complete Selection: W. VA.: Coyle and Popular Dry Foley Brothers LOS <p CALIF.: J. W. Rob- inson Compa MEMPHIS, PTENN.: The Bry-Block Mercantile Company MIAMI, FLA.: Burdine & Quarterman MIDDLETOWN, N. Y.: The Amie Norris Company, 3 James Street MILWAUKEE, WIS.: Bertha Elilers. The Specialty Shop, 106 Wisconsin St. MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.: The Dayton Company MONTREAL, CANADA: Henry Mor- gan & Company, Limited NEWARK, N. J.: L. Bamberger & Co. NEW ORLEANS, LA.: D. H. Holmes Company, Ltd. NEW YORK CITY: B. Altman & Co., Fifth Avenue and 34th Street, or Vogue Pattern Room, 19 West 44th Street, or Oliver A. Olson Com- pany, Broadway & 79th Street OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLA.: The Kerr Dry Goods Co. OMAHA, NEBR.: Thompson, Belden and Co. PADUCAH, KY.: The E. Guthrie Co. PEORIA, ILL.: Block and Kuhl Com- pany PHILADELPHIA, PA.: John Wana- maker PITTSBURGH, PA.: Joseph Horne Co. PORTLAND, ORE.: Charles F. Berg, 309-11 Morrison Street’ PROVIDENCE, R. I.: Gladding Dry Goods Company RICHMOND, VA.: The Gift Shop, 320 East Grace Street ROCHESTER, N. Y.: McCurdy and Company, Inc. SACRAMENTO, CAL.: Weinstock- Lubin and Company SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH: Keith- O’Brien Company -— ANTONIO, TEX.: Wolff & Marx () SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF.: The White House, Raphael Weill & Co. SEATTLE, WASH.: The MacDougall & Southwick Co. SHREVEPORT, LA.: Zodiag’s, Inc. SIOUX CITY, IOWA: Pelletier's ST. JOSEPH, MO.: The Townsend, Wyatt, and Wall Dry Goods Co. ST. LOUIS, MO.: Stix, Baer & Fuller Dry Goods Company ST. PAUL, MINN.: Brothers SYRACUSE, N. Y.: Dey Brothers and Company TACOMA, WASH.: Rhodes Brothers TOLEDO, O.: La Salle & Koch Co. TOPEKA, KANSAS: The Crosby Brothers Company TORONTO, CANADA: The Robert Simpson Company, Ltd. TULSA, OKLA.: The Hunt Company WASHINGTON, D. C.: The Wells Shop, 1319 F St., N. W., Room 204 WATERBURY, CONN.: The Miller and Peck Company WILMINGTON, DEL.: Brothers Company WORCESTER, MASS.: Slocum's Silk Store, 418 Main Street YORK, PA.: Chas. H. Bear Company YOUNGSTOWN, O.: The G. M. McKelvey Company. Mannheimer Schwartz A complete selection of all recent pattern models is shown in the Vogue Pattern Book. Published six times a year. Vogue Pattern Book Spring Issue Jan. 1 Early Summer Issue Mar. 1 Summer Issue May 1 At All Stores & News-stands . Ordered by Mail . ENN SMR MTA Fall Issue Early Winter Issue Winter Issue July 15 Sept. 1 Nov. 1 : . 35 Cents ..... 40 Cents eT TL eC RE a

VOGUE ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS (Continued from page 138) extent? Is green a good colour to select for a hat, with sweater or blouse to match, or is that colour too popular to be smart? For autumn wear, would something in a black and white check be good for the skirt, and, if so, of what material should it be? Ans.: There is no doubt that over- blouses and jackets have, to a great extent, replaced sweaters for country wear. Sweaters are, however, frequent- ly seen. Green is so good a colour that even popularity can not hurt it. A green felt hat with a jacket to match, in a soft shade, not a vivid one, would be a good choice. On pages 56 and 57 of the March 15th Vogue, there are some sketches of jackets and overblouses that are ex- cellent. We do not advise a black and white check skirt for this costume. A pleated white skirt of silk, crépe, or any other good material would be much better. Miss E. G.: I have been very much interested in the articles on the history of costume design, which have ap- peared in Vogue from time to time. I am especially interested in the pres- ent’ vogue for dresses with kimono sleeves and should like to ask when, in the history of French costume, was the kimono sleeve superseded by the fitted, set-in sleeve? I realize that fitted sleeves were used almost entirely by the French for many centuries. When did the kimono sleeve come back into the general favour it now has? Ans.: The garments of northern Eu- rope, in the dark and early middle ages, were a combination of the wrapped, unsewn classic garments and the bar- barian garments of skin and fur, and, undoubtedly, had a “kimono” sleeve, in the sense that the sleeve was an ex- tension of the garment and not a set- in one. The set-in sleeve probably came from Persia, where it had been in use for several centuries before its introduction to Europe, and may have been introduced by the Crusaders. It was certainly worn in Europe as early as the eleventh century and continued to be worn up to the present century. The true kimono sleeve was brought back by Poiret after a trip to the East and formally presented at the open- ings in 1908. There may, of course, have been occasional instances of its use before that, derived from the use of Japanese kimonos for négligée wear, but it had no real place in the mode until Poiret adopted it. Mr. C. G. H.: I am in quest of information as to the method of con- ducting a cotillion. I should be very much obliged for anything you can tell me concerning the figures and favours suitable for this purpose. Ans.: The success of a cotillion de- pends wholly upon the cotillion leader; some one with such experience should be chosen. Is there not a dancing- master in your city who could manage the whole affair for you? The leader must have an air of genial authority combined with tact and the gift of be- ing amusing. He must not call out too many couples at a time, for, if he calls out two couples at first, there will presently be eight couples on the floor; and, if this number is increased once more, there will be thirty-two couples. There is no set arrangement for the figures, save for the march at the be- ginning. In the days of the cotillion, there were many varied and clever figures, but not all these were neces- sarily — at every party. Dancing Made Easy is an excellent book de- scribing the figures and the grand march. If you can not engage some one to help you, this book may serve you. We can buy the favours for you if you will tell us how much you wish to spend. Mrs. B. B. F.: I am giving a large afternoon tea at the hotel which is at present my home. Will you give me some suggestions as to menu and deco- rations, and inform me as to whether the hostess and the ladies receiving with her should wear hats? Ans.: We suggest that you keep the decorations as simple as possible, using flowers and shrubs in not too great profusion, and, since you are to have an orchestra, it would be a pleasant idea to permit your guests to dance. For a menu, we suggest: Tea Chocolate eee" Sandwiches Fancy Ices Small Cakes Candies The sandwiches should be very small and thin. Olive and nut, marmalade, chopped lettuce, paté de foies gras, and toasted cheese are some of the appetizing kinds that may be used. It would be quite correct, as the hotel is your home, for you and your friends to omit wearing hats; but, as the tea is not being given in a private house, it would be equally correct to wear them. Miss E. M. E.: Will you kindly an- swer the following question? Is it necessary for a woman to stand when being introduced to another woman? Also should a hostess rise when being introduced to either a man or woman? Ans.: Whether or not a woman rises for an introduction denends upon cir- cumstances. She should, of course. -stand for any introduction in her own house, unless the person introduced were a very young girl or young man. She would always rise to be introduced to an older woman, and, while it is not considered necessary for her to rise to meet one of her own age, it is courteous for her to do so if there is no obvious reason why she should not. This natural instinct of courtesy, with com- mon sense in the matter, usually tells one when to get up and when not to. A very elderly woman need rise for no one except royalty or other very important persons. As a_ general rule, a woman need not stand to be introduced to a man, unless he is a bishop, ambassador, or some one to whom one pays a certain respect be- cause of his position or achievements. Miss L. M. B.: A‘ friend of mine and his bride, whom I have not met, are to make their home in the town where I live. Should I call on his wife personally or send my card? Ans.: It is customary, except in Washington in official society, for the woman already established in a place to pay the first call, as a form of welcome to the new arrival. If the lady is not at home, you may leave your card, but it is correct to ask for her. Miss A. T. B.: When one receives an invitation to the church wedding of a couple whom one does not know very well. is it necessary to send a gift? Ans.: It is never obligatory to send a wedding present, although one gen- erally does so if one knows either the bride or groom well enough to be in- vited to the wedding reception. In the case you mention, it is neither necessary nor usual. W

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October 1 WV | to women Kotex is so convenient. So easy to dispose of by following simple directions found in each box. Kotex is so inexpensive. Cheap enough to throw away. Kotex is such a safeguard when one has i . planned to go away, to attend a game, a party, or the theater. They are made exclusively of fine gauze and Cellucotton, the most effective absorbent material known to science. This makes them more absorbent — more comfortable, hygienic and safe— than old-fashioned pads of bird’s- eye or ordinary absorbent cotton. It is so easy to buy Kotex. One asks for them by name. They are sold in drug, drygoods and de- partment stores. It proves con- venient to have a supply always on hand. The very first box shows how Kotex solves a diffi- cult problem. eA s : Ue ROCs OUR SE uy j It means a great deal Regular size, 12 for 65 Hospital size, 6 for 45¢ (Additional Thickness) Kotex cabinets are being installed in women'srest rooms everywhere —hote!s, office buildings, restau- rants, theaters, and other places —from which may be obtained one Kotex with two safety pins, in plain wrapper, for ten cells. Sold everywhere—ask for them by name Copyright, 1923, Cellucotton Products Company, 166 W. Jackson Boulevard, Chicago; 51 Chambers St., New York City; Factories at Neenah, Wis. Canadian Office, No. 45 St. Alexander St., Montreal (one een INEXPENSIVE, COMFORTABLE, HYGIENIC and SAFE — KOTEX. ITS OFF because ITS OUT (EPILATION) NOTE: Madame Berthe is the only manufacturer of a superfluous hair remedy who has specialized solely in superfluous hair treatments for eighteen years. The merits of ZIP were thoroly proven long before ZIP was sold to the public in pack- age form. ZIP is not a depilatory —it 1s Beyond a Doubt the most beautiful woman you know is beautiful because she i is typically feminine. And to be typically feminine you must be free of every suggestion of masculinity— every tiny unwanted hair. Infinitely Better It is better, infinitely better, to eliminate your superfluous hair by actually lifting out the roots with the hairs (epilation) and in this way destroying the growth, than to continue using ordinary treatments which merely burn off surface hair and have the same effect as singeing or shaving, throwing the strength back into the roots ZIP lifts—Does NOT Pull Out Pulling hair out is very much different than the action of ZIP in lifting the hairs out—hundreds in an instant, gently, quickly and painlessly. Indeed ZIP has found favor with Specialists everywhere. Epilation Removes Hair Roots Epilation (the ZIP process) is the method by which the hair root is lifted out of the hair follicle. It is the scientifical!y correct method because it does not stimu- late hair growths, but devitalizes and destroys them. ZIP is easily applied at home, pleasingly fragrant and absolutely harmless. It leaves the skin soft and smooth, pores contracted, and like magic your skin becomes adorable. For Sale Everywhere Ask for ZIP treatment at your beauty shop Profes- Guaranteed on money-back basis ionals “he Write for FREE BOOK ‘“Beauty’s Greatest Secret” call at my salon to have FREE DEMONSTRATION A single hair ig inercue 8a AND REMEMBER Ab-Scent—The ideal liquid colorless av Remedies excessive per- spiration. Guaranteed harmless. . 50c Balm-o-Lem — A FOUNTAIN ‘OF ‘YOUTH FOR YOUR SKIN— Softens and whitens. _— - sunburn. Makes wart oo ~ adhere twice as long. . my. . 75¢ Madame Berthe’s Senass par Cheeses ‘en ee aetighifuy soothing white lemon verbena cream. Guaranteed not to grow hair, Jar. Antiseptic and Astringent. —o venesin iset skins "argo large pores, pimples or irritation. .50c Dept. 418 562 FIFTH AVENUE (Entrance on 46th St.) NEW YORK CITY Sheer hose Bobbed hair de- ardsa One’s arms must perfect hair line be free of hair — CREATIONS JOROEOAU

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142 he English Velvet Paris predicts velvet— | and bids you appear this autumn clad in the smartness of velvet wraps and tailored suits. But take this hint from the foremost designers—let your velvet be VELUTINA. There’s a marvelous lustre and a supple rich- ness to Velutina which makes you realize as never before the caressing flattery of velvet. A special new construction has produced the brilliant finish of its graceful folds and the firm surface that will not crush like ordinary velvet. Feel of Velutina’s luxurious pansy-petal soft- ness! Then you'll understand its vogue for gowns, suits and wraps fo~ all the feminine world, from matron to miss. Velutina in black and all smart shades (absolutely fast color) may be had in the better stores. Look for the name Velutina on the selvage. N. ERLANGER, BLUMGART & CO., INc. 354 Fourth Ave., New York City ~MELUTINA ») o> — t VOGUE 1'THE PIERREDAR REFUGE LPINE climbers, descending from the shining white dome of Dia- blerets, find in the rustic boulder hut of Pierredar Refuge a boon on foggy days—shelter and comfort in which to await the disappearance of the thick, damp clouds. We were di- rected to this convenient refuge by dark red arrows painted by the Swiss upon the large boulders that support the Dome Blanc. But the day was fair and clear, and we had no need of the hospitality and rest offered by the little structure. Primitively built, of rough, sharp rocks, and roofed with metal, it pressed close to the sides of the towering mountain, safe from the encroachments of winter avalanches which glide harmlessly past it. IIOSPITALITY IN THE ALPS Although it was August, vestiges of winter remained in the long strips of snow lying in the hollows of the small plateau, from which a beautiful cas- cade falls into the valley. These snows, so very high in the mountains, never leave the hollows during all the burn- ing sunshine of summer. From these heights, before the hut was built, many tourists, groping through the fog in search of the tiny path, had fallen over the precipice and been dashed to death. We found the hut, therefore, a most welcome refuge, even though the day was as fair as any that ever visits the Alpine rocks. Timidly, we ventured inside. There was everything the climber, fog-bound in the mist, might require. A medi- cine-chest on the wall was stocked with first-aid-to-the-injured bottles— arnica, iodine, and a few other simple remedies—, as well as bandages. Blan- kets, rolled neatly, were on one shelf, while on another were pots and pans of various kinds. In one corner was a comfortable-looking stove. Tacked on a shelf was a list of all the handy and necessary equipment with which this hospitable hut is furnished and which it offers in friendly welcome to every climber. It was a tempting place to spend a night in the mountains. ‘There was ample equipment for comfort and for the preparation of those provisions which the climber always carries, and articles not visible were listed with full directions to the traveller as to where they could be found. The wood that was needed for the stove was stacked, as we learned from the in- structions, behind the large boulder outside the entrance, and a large saw for cutting up the wood rested against the pile. But the saw proved desper- ately blunt, with less of an edge than some of the jagged rocks and boulders, One of the requirements for the use of the hut was that the traveller should wind the small clock that rested on a shelf, for it had not been wound since the last visitors had passed that way, We diligently wound and set it accord- ing to the watches we carried, and, with this new lease of life, placed it, once more ticking merrily and cosily, upon its resting-place, the hollow sounds of its ticks shouting in the silence of the mountains. Chief of all the articles in the nar- row quarters was a large ledger, or register, of those who had enjoyed the hospitality of the hut in their descent from the summit of Diablerets. We glanced over the names and dates, as well as the scrawled and florid com- ments of those who had endeavoured to be witty and clever in the “re- marks” column. These names were chiefly Swiss, with here and there some foreign ones, and the comments praised the wonders of the scenery. “Salut aux Suisses!” was the chief remark of those who hailed from other countries, and the students from the universities of Switzerland could be determined from the names of fraternities and so- cieties after their signatures and the gay references. Frequently, there ap- peared profuse thanks for the charming hospitality that placed the hut at the dangerous pass. COMFORT BEFORE DEPARTURE We were very hungry and were glad to make a fire in the stove, prepare our provisions, and brew a pot of tea. And, after our visit, we came out again on the plateau and remarked the clar- ity of the air and a splendid eagle majestically perched on a jutting rock. Although he was some distance above us, he seemed very close in the lucid, transparent atmosphere, which makes far-away objects seem close at hand, and the separate feathers of his wings were discernible as he turned his arched neck about before flying away. At last, having gathered a bouquet of Alpine blossoms—many brilliant flow- ers, as well as the white edelweiss, which always chooses high and dan- gerous places in which to bloom—, we left the little hut as we had found it and set out on our downward journey AMY V. LITTELJOHN.

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JE saw inst per~ han ers, uld na nce ay. rd- nd, ily, low the lar- or the ent We as ym- red ere me sed lut es, les ed he |p- he Octuvber 1

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| Zs Y |

Himyrose House helps you look your pest ~ always RIMROSE House, New York, has brought real science to achieve beauty. It is the scientific quality of Primrose House Treatments and the definite results of Primrose House Preparations that make women consider them invaluable. The Face Molding Treatment, originated at Primrose House, is given by trained nurses. But youcan get the Face Molding Set that contains: Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream, to clean the skin thoroughly ; Skin Freshener, totone up the skin, and bring color to the cheeks; Face Molding Cream, the medium for thetreatment itself, nourishes the skin, rebuilds the tissues; Balsam Astringent makes the face muscles firm, reduces double chin, and tightens the skin, and the Face Molder itself, with marked chart and simple directions to enable you to do your own Face Molding. By molding along the natural trend of the muscles of the face and neck you strengthen them so that they do not a//ow sagging, lines and wrinkles. Ten minutes:a day will take away lines of worry and fatigue and keep your face and neck firm and young. Send for this complete treatment set—$10.00. For smart finishing touches Primrose House Provides: 143 LISSUE HAN DKERCHIEFS FOR MEN & WOMEN In the variety and style of their artistic, fast, color-woven borders—in their superior quality, fine hemstitching and perfect workmanship— LISSUE Handkerchiefs have won world-wide reputation. era cttee’ Imported from England. Poo [a Men’s 75 cts.—Women’s 50 cts. Bs: veal pond

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Write to Mrs. Morris, at Primrose House, for a copy of “The New | Beauty’’, and advice on your individual problems. You will receive | confidential care, as you would in a personal interview. There is no charge for this service. Primrose House Prep- arations are sold at se- lected shops throughout the country. Write for the name of the shop in your city. vimyrodse Louse Department A-9 ~ «3 EAST 52487, New Yorn,

‘Here Dwells Youth"

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THE WOOLTEX COMPANY, Cleveland, A) ‘The TAILORE D WOMAN Tall 6 Winter Edition — 1923-24 If you have not received your copy of “The Tailored Woman” fashion maga- zine, write usfor it. There is no charge. ON THE SUBJECT OF COATS To one who bewails the “sameness of things” this season’s coats will prove a genuine delight! That warmth incurs bulkiness is denied in each straight, slim line of the Wooltex coats. Their snug shoulders, their grace of line are those of an exquisitely tailored frock. The fabrics include the season’s mcst popular—from soft lovely Lustresa to firm tweeds; furs from luxurious Squirrel and Beaver to the youthful Raccoon. And one selects a Wooltex Tailormade or Knockabout with such an air of assurance—there are no misgivings as to its firm, fine tailcring, correctness of line or worthiness of fabric. Wooltex beauty and quality are not transient, either, but of lasting satisfaction in coats, suits and dresses. COATS, SUITS & DRESSES by Oolt Ohio treasure-trove. A shop worthy of a page in Cranford is Coggeshall’s on Mill Street. “Fine day, neighbour,” is the greeting from the back of the shop. There, among his china—Lowestoft, Bristol, Leeds, and the spoils of Chi- nese traders—sits a smiling old gentle- man like a Hugh Thompson figure of Father Christmas. Over the blue zephyrs of his “baccy,” he will twinkle out tales to you of this or that. Hun- dreds of years seem to lie about him as he stirs the ghostly romances of his treasures. “A beautiful bowl that— punch in it when George III. was king. The chevalier gave it to the girl who opened the ball with the Father of His Country. She kept rose-leaves in it, no doubt. . Women didn’t drink in those days—not as much as they do now. . . . I’d be glad to see it full of some of the old grog, I would. Think of a seaport town that once ‘had all the finest liquor in the land, all run dry. Perhaps, it will come back again. The next generation may be thirsty! . . . Say, do you know how to make dandelion wine?” Over at Little Compton is a new- comer in the way of antique shops: Samanthy’s Relic Shop. Its owner is a woman of genius and displays her wares in such original and quaint ways that the visitor leaves turning his mo- tor into a moving-van. One asks for Samanthy and is shown the lady seated in a corner, attended by her buxom daughter and a black servant. The group are very prim and old-fashioned, wearing the garments of 1850. They stare at callers with wide-eyed, be- nignant curiosity, but never speak. They seem to be waiting and watch- ing—waiting for lost children who long ago forgot all about them. Sa- manthy, her girl, and her slave are frail old dolls, but they live on in the sunny shop; and no one can tell them that their beloved playmates are wrapped away in shadows. RIDES TO GATES OF OLD ROMANCE One of the most popular excursions in Newport is the enchanting journey around Paradise Road to “Vauclause” —said to have been the finest speci- men of colonial architecture in New England. To-day, the house, with its falling balconies and columns, is ap- proaching devastation at the hands of time and the ocean winds, but enough of an almost tragic beauty re- mains to class it with Mount Vernon and Monticello. In the days when “Aunty Stevens” fought with her friend “Sitting Bull,” when Ward Mc- Allister gave a ball for Li Hung Chang, and when young English dukes looked to Newport as a happy courting ground, the deserted gardens of this home of the Hazards drew many a pair of wandering lovers. The mod- VOGUE HIDDEN CHARMS of OLD NEWPORT (Continued from page 65) ern lad and lass more or less eschew any sentimental setting. Moss-grown paths that might have been designed for Swinburne’s lines—“I found in dreams a place of wind and flowers”— have nothing to do with an up-to-date cupid. “Vauclause,” with its engulfing woods, its wail of desolation, attracts the curious, as the mystery play at- tracts. Here is something that is so exquisite and yet sinister that all the horrors of Poe seem to lurk in the shadows of the place. “Spook hall!” said the Newport taxi man. “I wouldn’t like to be there at night for nuts. The family was spiritualists. . . . They didn’t want anybody to ever get the place. The old boy who lived there said to leave it for them. Ain’t that a creepy idea? Not even the Vander- bilts could get it. Can’t you imagine them there jumping about when night comes down? ... Way off in the high road, I think I could see them— like big grey moths under those wees, MEMORIES OF JULIA WARD HOWE Another place of happier interest for an afternoon’s drive is Oak Glen. This picturesque estate lies at the high point of the stream running through Lawton’s Valley. The ruins of an old stone mill with four huge millstones, used formerly to grind the famous Rhode Island white corn-meal, give it an air of antiquity. Just one-half century ago this summer, Julia Ward Howe came to live here and held a miniature literary court under the oaks she called her “green family.” Henry James has described these tea-parties as “the meeting of the fashionables of Bellevue Avenue and the intellectuals of Washington Street and the Point.” The memories of the Town and Coun- try Club which she founded and pre- sided over for more than a score of years are precious links in the golden chain of the literary history of New- port. Among its members are the names of some of the American im- mortals—Colonel Thomas, Wentworth Higginson, Alexander Agassiz, and Bret Harte. It is pleasing to think that these traditions of culture have sur- vived in the Art Association of New- port and that the gracious mantle of a distinguished mother should be worn by her daughter, Maud Howe Elliott, its founder and secretary. As Dr. Johnson spoke of Anna Seward, the Swan of Lichfield, his spiritual de- scendants—if there are any who speak his language—might hand a sprig of laurel to this gifted woman who has done so much for artistic Newport. The autumn will see the birth of Mrs. Elliott’s memoirs, Three Generations, and, from its pages, the new Newport can catch and hold some of the fra- grance of the old.

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~ Ve, - ew = Se OS. ) y Ro “@ app 2 ‘4 STuTZ cAmericas Pre-eminent Sports (ars SIX-CYLINDER SERIES: $1995 to $2550 THE SPEEDWAY SERIES: $2450 to $3490 Exclusive of tax and freight Stutz Motor Car Company of America, Inc. Indianapolis, Indiana Builders of the original and genuine Stutz cars The Sign of he Genuine

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From a painting by Dean Cornweut A last look at a well-dressed friend HAT last trip down cellar—before you go out for the evening—is easy if the boiler be an IDEAL TYPE A Heat Macuine. For the Ipzat TYPE A is a gentleman. It smokes, but the smoke goes up the chimney; it creates ashes, but not on the floor. And always it is so well groomed that any hand may touch its handles any time at all. In hundreds of cellars the entrance of this hand- some individual has caused a transformation. The cellar has been dressed up to meet the standards of the new-comer; and, from the most neglected, has become the most livable part of the house. And, best of all, the cost of the improvements is paid for by the fuel saved. Send to either address below for the TYPE A book that proves this. AMERICAN RADIATOR COMPANY IpEAu Boilers and AMERICAN Radiators for every heating need Dept. 135 816 So. Micuican Ave., CHIcAcGo 104 WeEsT 42ND Srreet, New York

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—— October 1 THE END = = O’ SUMMER Soon all summer will be gone—gone with the sinking sun. And with it will pass the happy days of week-ends in the country. May we suggest that now is a splendid time to show your appreciation to your summer host- ess with a piece of beautiful silverware such as you will sce displayed at this establishment ? Mail orders will be promptly and accurately filled. Theodore B. Starr, Inc. Established 1862 Jewelers and Silversmiths Fifth Avenue and Forty-Seventh Street New York Paul Poiret has taken his namesake, Poiret twill, in navy blue and used on it white rickrack braid, mounted on royal tlue kasha cloth Then he has posed two gay wool embroidered bouquets, one on the bodice and another on the flared tunic about which Paris is talking so much, and there's an autumn street frock of originality and charm. Every detail of Miss Walls’ original importation has been faithfully copied. $08. ‘THIS autumn street frock expresses more than the youthful charm which is so very apparent, for it ex- presses at the same time a little of the individuality of Mary Walls’ shop, where a real desire to offer to discrim- inating readers frocks and wraps of the less usual type has resulted in many such refreshing models. Phang Vil Two East 46th St. New York City HANAN SHOES Q y a priority of Ilanan Styles is as proverbial, as the perfection of Hanan Handiwork is traditional. This newly designed Autumn Pump conceals elastic gore under an upright buckle. Executed in Patent Leather and in two fetching tints of Brown Suede not ordinarily to be met. HANAN & SON 411 FIFTH AVE. 516 FIFTH AVE, 634 FIFTH AVE. 718 FIFTH AVE. Oe A Oy

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New Yorx Coax & Suir House Tulsa, Okla. Hunt’s Depr. Store Lynchburg, Va. Crarporne Druc Co. Sioux Falls, S. D. Carpenter Hore San Antonio, Tex. Josxe Broruers Company Fort Worth, Tex. W. C. Sraipiinc Co. Beaumont, Tex. Tue Rosentuat Dry Goons Co. Columbus, Ohio Tue Morenouse-Martens Co. Dorothy Gray’s Chin Strap Price Postpaid $5.50 Newforko restoring preparations in their proper proportions. Come in and have the Special Treat- ment. If not possible, write describ- ing your skin and condition of muscles and Miss Gray will write you per- sonally a special home treatment for your particular need. Do You Need One of these Preparations? To Correct the Droop Under the Chin— Dorothy Gray's Russian Astringent Cream —tightens the skin without drying it. $3 and $5.50. For Relaxed, Lifeless, Sallow, Shriveled Skin—Dorothy Gray's Circulation Oint- ment—brings the natural color into the cheeks. $3.25 and $6. For Wrinkles About Eyes — Dorothy Gray’s Pour La Patte d’'Oie—an unusual paste for removing wrinkles about the eyes and strengthening tissues. Firmly adhesive during sleep. $1.50 and $4. For Thin Faces—Dorothy Gray's Special Skin Food—makes a thin face round and youthful and fills out the hollows. $1 and $1.75. For Over-sensitive and Dry Skins— Dorothy Gray's Tissue Cream—a skin food that will not fatten the face but gives a dry skin the necessary nourishment. $1 and $1.75. For Cleansing the Pores—Dorothy Gray’s Cleansing Cream—makes the skin smooth and velvety. $1.00, $1.75 and $2.50. For Enlarged Pores—Dorothy Gray's Orange Flower Tonic—refines the texture of the skin and whitens and brightens the color. Fine for puffiness under the eyes. $.85 and $1.75. For Oily Skin and Shiny Nose—Dorothy Gray’s Russian Astringeni—tightens re- laxed muscles. Corrects a moist and oily skin. $3. For Summer’s Tan—Dorothy Gray's Rus- sian Bleach Cream—removes tan and freckles and bleaches the hands. $2. For more stubborn discolorations, Extra Bleach Ointment. $3. Powders—for every variety of skin. Im- palpable, clinging, deliciously scented. All shades, including the violet and green that Paris wears at night. Moisture proof—healing, protective to the skin. $1.50 and $3. SEND FOR BOOKLET, (7? Story Gray,” with complete list of preparations for Cor- recting Relaxed and Flab Muscles, Double Chin, Bleach Treatment. How to Correct an Oily Skin. ADry Skin. Blackheads andEnlarged Pores. orothy Gray 749 FIFTH AVENUE ATLANTIC CITY 1643 Boardwalk WHAT HOSE who have followed the spiendid work of Witter Bynner in past years will agree that his translation of the poetry of Charles Vildrac into the volume of English verse entitled 4 Book of Love, pub- lished by Dutton, is a brilliant achieve- ment, far excceding anything hitherto attempted either by Mr. Bynner him- self or by his contemporaries. “To love beings and things! That is what M. Charles Vildrac simply and _ fer- vently engages us to do,” says Emile Verhaeren in his beautiful little intro- ductory note; and Mr. Bynner has suc- ceeded in conveying this spirit of lim- itless love, of heroic tenderness, of the essential perfection of mere existence, with all the delicacy and completeness of the original—we rest assured of this from the beginning. No flaw in rhythm is detectable, no error in the arrange- ment of the lines. The smooth sense of pure poetry sweeps us on from won- der to wonder; here is none of the jerk-and-jolt modern conception of that much-abused liberty, free verse. The rhythm is a finished product in itself —rhyme would be superfluous. Poetry —great poetry—is a subtle vehicle to carry home truths in a beautiful way. Where and when have we known “the long and languid dream of grasses”? Why, we have seen and felt it countless times in wide fields where we watched the tall grass lazily swaying to the caress of sun and wind! Charles Vil- drac holds before us a mirror in which we glimpse old, sacred, half-realized experiences polished clear for a moment by his vivid magic—and nothing of that magic is lost in the minutest de- gree through Mr. Bynner’s translation. Words describing this book are futile. It should be read first and discussed afterward. “A Gentleman with a Duster,” alias Harold Begbie, has come forward with a new volume—Seven Ages, published by Putnam. Fortunately, these essays on seven famous men throughout his- tory enable us to judge Mr. Begbie himself much more clearly than any of his former books, for we are on the ground floor with him in approaching these great men. We, too, know them and have tried to understand them, whereas the author had the advantage over us in disarming the British nota- bles whom he has previously described. Therefore, an eighth portrait of our hitherto mysterious dusting gentleman is drawn subtly into the essays. The seven men treated are Socrates, Aris- totle, Jesus Christ, Augustine, Fras- mus, Cromwell, and Wesley. They are described in respect to their differing backgrounds and varying ideals for hu- manity. In conclusion, an appeal for rational, constructive thinking for the future is considered the duty of man, for our rights and privileges have been purchased by the past. A stimulating book! There is a very deep appeal in the little volume of essays entitled Shep- herd’s Crowns, by Pamela Grey (Lady Grey of Fallodon), published by Apple- ton. Such a book, to borrow a phrase of its own, “sheds a spirit of quietness most comfortable in these noisy days” and is refreshing after the gaunt real- ism and religious intolerance of mod- ern literature. There is no attempt at continuity in the arrangement of the essays—the book opens on a note of | startling simplicity, concerning itself with ancient fables and quaint bits of folk-lore, following which we suddenly find ourselves rambling across Salisbury Plain for no particular reason, but with | the utmost enjoyment. The latter half of the book strikes depths for which the first half does not prepare us. Lady Grey attacks the question of the soul THEY VOGUE R EA D and its hereafter with the convincing candour of a child, leaving one stripped of the haif-embarrassed cynicism with which most of us arm ourselves against these matters. “The Way,” “Six Words of Assurance,” “Aspects of Spiritual- ism,” and “Symbolism” convey the au- thor’s splendid philosophy with a charming simplicity and are by far the best and most interesting among the eleven essays contained in the volume. The review of Chaucer and William Barnes shows a deep appreciation of the art of poetry and a fine under- standing of the widely divergent tal- ents of the two poets themselves. This is a delightful book, a refreshing book, and—what the present-day reader is most in need of—a convincing book. Bread, by Charles G. Norris, pub- lished by Dutton, is a pessimistic nov- el. Now pessimism, in order to con- vince, must be purely rational with a vital appeal. We do not desire to con- template hopelessness throughout an entire book, and the usual reaction is one of instinctive resentment at being made to do so. Charles G. Norris, with his devastating discernment and exict control of words, is convincing in his pessimism, though his argument—the ever-interesting problem: has woman the right to a career even at the cost of motherhood?—leaves us in doubt, as did Mr. Hutchinson’s in This Freedom. Mr. Norris presents both sides of the question very effectively, but, in the end, we gather that he considers a woman to be, of necessity, a home fix- ture. Jeannette Sturgis, the heroine of Bread, makes long strides in the business world, but the most militant of modern women could never call her happy, while her sister, Alice, marries a perfectly inefficient specimen of the genus Homo; produces a large family; endures all the trials and struggles at- tendant upon this latter circumstance, coupled with a very small income; and is very happy indeed. However, we car, not help feeling that almost any- thing would have done for Alice, since she was satisfied with Roy Beardsley, and that Jeannette would have felt a lack in her life no matter how she had directed her energies. The story is a dreary one, but it is not the melodra-- matic, artificial sort of drab which cer- tain of our modernists take a gruesome delight in wallowing through. Mr. Norris gives a woman’s attention to small matters, but he invests even the least of these with a fateful significance, so that when Jeannette hangs new cur- tains in the bungalow dining-room and Mr. Corey changes the card-index sys- tem of the Corey Publishing Company, we sense in such things an obscure and dreadful importance. Thus, unerring- ly, if by devious ways, we are led to the climax—a remarkably powerful and bitter one. In the darkest moments of this book, we may be weak enough to feel that a dash of the detested “Pollyanna” spirit would be cheering, but it is, none the less, a sincere and honest piece of work—the best that Mr. Norris has yet given us. The Manuscript of Youth, by Diana Patrick, published by Dutton, is a very sincere story of the comradeship in youth between Isabel Chapeldene and her brother, Jocelyn, the friendship of Jocelyn and Rex Stapleton, and the love and friendship of Rex and Isabel. The two youths have artistic genius to express and meet with rather early success, a note which emphasizes the purely fictional character of the story. Both experience the war, as well as a simple Bohemian life in London, while Isabel remains with her grandfather in the rugged north country. It is this character—stern, unbending, yet with a (Continued on page 148)

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Perfect Relish Heinz Tomato Ketchup has a flavor that gives to every food a new zest—an invit- ing, appetizing, delicious taste. It is made in model kitchens of spotless cleanliness, from red ripe tomatoes grown where soil and climate unite to produce the best. TAL CAA A MRANTEED Pl ®TO COMPLY Biaws THROUGHOMED WHEINZ COMB DE FROM F; FREE FROM BENZOATE OF SODA AL PRESERVATIVE OR COLOR, HJHEINZ CO. PrrtseurcnUSA MAKERS ae. ee ae B nobility of spirit far outshining any other character in the book—who gives the greatest sense of security and faith to the story. Withal, it is a simple nar- rative—somewhat lacking in humour —of comradeship, friendship, and love, which can not help but hold the sym- pathetic interest of the reader. The Poor Man, by Stella Benson, published by Macmillan, leaves us wondering, as in the case of Jurgen, if we have read a profound piece of wisdom or have only been very clever- ly trifled with; but, be that as it may, the cleverness is indisputable. The book scintillates with a breath-taking qual- ity peculiarly its own and, from cover to cover, is keyed to a brain-wearing pitch of wit and brilliance. It is thor- oughly at ease with itself and its reader from the first. It dashes into absurd- ities and wild exaggerations of fancy, into cold tragedy and cryptic humour, with bewildering swiftness, and, just as we are beginning to take it very seri- ously, it turns around and laughs at us for ever having thought of such a thing. The sensations of that wretched creature, Edward R. Williams, are ex- posed daringly and without mercy. There is something actually indelicate about such a precise portrayal of the inner workings of a human _being’s mind, Like Mr. Salteena in Daisy Ash- ford’s Young Visiters, he is spared no indignity, however trifling; he is routed. defeated, and humiliated by every chance situation. Everybody sharpens their wits upon him: the pagan group around whom the story is written, the author, and the reader—the latter laughs a little louder than any one, perhaps to offset a disconcerting im- pression that the laugh is on himself. For Poor Edward, always his own hero and never anybody’s else, eternally seeing himself as others refuse to see him, thinking of himself in the kind- ly phraseology of story-books to smooth over his tragic blunders, is al- most indecently recognizable as an in- nate part of each of us; wherefore, we are secretly put out with Stella Ben- son for her effrontery in revealing it. for hanging such a thin veil of mockery before our nakedness, only to tear it off and laugh at our de- formities. The Poor Man is a remarkable keen and exact study of human nature taken unawares and, so, rather at its worst. It is true not only of modern life, but of life as it has always been in certain phases and always will be. Stephen Leacock in Over the Foot- lights, published by Dodd, Mead, fur- nishes his readers with a pleasant re- lief from his recent attempts at would- be humour. It has some very amusing lines and funny episodes. Those who delighted in the Nonsense Novels will not find this last diversion of Mr. Lea- cock’s as delightfully silly and ab- surd as those gems of satire, but it serves to amuse. The sketches describ- ing “Cast Up by the Sea—a seacoast melodrama (as thrown up for 30 cents),” and “Dead Men’s Gold—a film of the Great Nevada desert in which Red-blooded, Able-bodied men and women, a hundred per cent. American, live and love among the cactus and chaparral,” are most entertaining. Every thrill possible to drama and the motion-pictures enhances the interest of these plots. “The Dry Banquet,” “Why I Refuse to Play Golf,” and “My Last Dollar” are all enlivening nonsense. For reading aloud, for an idle moment, for the traveller, and for the convalescent, this book ought to ni A TC prove an excellent suggestion. ie ie (Continued from page 146) VOGUE R EA D Icebound, published in book form by Little, Brown, is, we feel, deservedly hailed as the best and most popular American play of the past two years, It is a poignantly simple and realistic study of hard-fisted, hard-headed New England intolerance, twisted into de- liciously humorous and, at times, in- tensely dramatic situations. The char- acters are vivid in their very dulness: typical Maine farm folk, who, with their petty quibblings and iron-clad prejudices, are presented to us as liy- ing beings out of the actual experience of one of their sons, Owen Davis. This is a play full of atmosphere ‘and real- ism, vitally near to its subject and vitally true to it at all times. It is not hard for those of us who have read and seen it to understand its overwhelming success. The Charm of a Well-Mannered Home, by Helen Ekin Starrett, pub- lished by Lippincott, is a timely vol- ume that will find a ready audience. Because it contains so much of the common sense and fine consideration of every-day living, this book, original- ly published during the author’s life- time under the title, Letters to Elder Daughters, Married and Unmarried, has been brought out again, this time in essay form. Mrs. Starrett was, at the time of her death, principal eme- ritus of the Starrett School for Girls, in Chicago, and had given much thought during her educational leadership to the ways in which young women should fulfil their rdles as mistresses of their homes. Although written from the stand- point of old-fashioned ideals, the book to-day might well be taken to heart by those who have married, as Bernard Shaw suggests, “under the influence of a pink parasol,” for attention is drawn to those fundamentals which, ignored, often bring countless irritants into fam- ily associations. “If we only had a few less curtains and a few more comforts,” is given as the complaint of one young husband who had suffered from lack of judg- ment on the part of his youthful wife. On the other hand, the author points out that the industrious wife must not push her industry in looking after her husband’s welfare and comfort to such a point that it becomes a vice and ap- preciation for the more artistic things is lost. Good housekeeping, knowledge of household decoration, agreeable home- keeping, a realization of the art of motherhood, a solution of the relative importance of things and demands upon her time, the grace of apprecia- tiveness, amiability of temper, allow- ance to each individual in the home the fullest possible liberty consistent with the rights of all, good health, and repose—these, according to Mrs. Star- rett, are essentials for the woman who would create a happy atmosphere in her home. A group of travel books make either the planning of next year’s journey or a comfortable armchair pilgrimage de- lightful because of the inspiring sources of information at hand. In Spain in Silhouette, by Trowbridge Hall, pub- lished by Macmillan, we have a charm- ing book illustrated by sprightly anec- dotes from historical, literary, and pop- ular sources. It is instructive, in parts vivid, and contains considerable hu- mour. Its publishers mention the de- scription of a bull-fight as unusually thrilling, and so, also, are the word- paintings of the Seville pageants and the brief, but telling, mention of the wine-cellars of Jerez. Mr. Trowbridge (Continued on page 150) _ eee e wa

Page 163

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Page 164

Fear no more jhe Wind, the Sun and the Dust— Gerry gives you the first com- plete Treatment for Blackheads OU, madame, on whose face time and perhaps care have left their subtle touch—and you delightful modern girl who motors and golfs regardless of wind and sun—who trips gaily along city streets with their dust and smoke and motor gases—you may now go your ways fearlessly —for here, at last, is the gift of a permanently lovely complexion for you both. Maison Gerry—famous in Paris for its eminent skin specialists—has now brought to America the five famous Gerry Beauty Treatments—each one a complete, standardized treatment especially adapted to each of the five types of skin produced by American life today. There is nothing else that can so scientifically assure complexion loveliness as these specific co-ordinated creams and lotions that work together toward permanent beauty through perfect skin health. 1. GERRY GENERAL BEAU- TIFYING TREATMENT —to make the normal skin smoother and more beautiful, and to preserve a fresh, youthful contour through middle age by the scientific promotion of skin health. $10. 4. GERRY DRY SKIN TREAT- MENT —to overcome dryness, the greatest en- emy of a beautiful complexion, by stim- ulating a flow of natural oil, thereby nourishing the skin to a smooth, clear softness. Also prevents and removes lines and wrinkles. $7.50. 2. GERRY BLACKHEAD AND _ 5- ane OUTDOOR TREAT- PIMPLE TREATMENT —to protect the complexion against ex- —for the prompt removal not only o. osure, and to smooth, whiten, and blackheads and pimples but of their Peantity askin roughened by dust,wind- causes—insuring a permanently Clear, burn, sunburn, tan, and freckles, “$10.00, smooth, wholesome skin. aes “THE oeeey ae BEAUTY TREA —to enhance the ecg ok and luster of the hair by scientifically promoting scalp health. It imparts amazing softness and fluffiness, prevents dandruff, and retards grayness. $7.50. 3. GERRY SKIN REFINING TREATMENT —to refine enlarged pores to a delicate fine-textured smoothness, and to correct face oiliness and shininess. $15. You can get these famous Gerry Beauty Treatments at the better department stores, To find which is nearest you write to MAISON GERRY, 730 Fifth Avenue, New York When in New York, you are cordially invited to visit the Salon Gerry, where you may consult our famous skin specialists, free of charge BEAUTY TREATMENTS _for personal home use WHAT has been particularly fortunate in his manner of introducing spirited his- torical data and in giving the reader something of the character of modern Spanish literature, which we regret is known to us only through Ibafiez. Al- together, the book reads like a story and carries one through Spain in a ro- mance rather than in wearying cate- gorical descriptions. Another book, a recent edition by MacMillan of Highways and Byways in Sussex, by E. V. Lucas, charmingly illustrated by Frederick L. Griggs, is a delicious feast for the travel gourmet. As different from the volume first de- scribed as are their subjects, it has the delicacy and authenticity of all of Mr. Lucas’s books of this sort. It is at once a complete guide for the traveller and a whimsical essay on the manners and surroundings of a section of En- gland. There are dozens of delightful descriptions of the country and as many racy cullings from history and literature. One can clearly see the Prince of Wales, afterwards the George IV. who made Brighton famous, as he catches his cook with a stolen pat of butter in her pocket. The book, moreover, is convenient in ‘size and weight, characteristics which the Brit- ish publishers seem able to combine with good print and which any rambling reader prizes. The Story of Bologna, by Alethea Weil, published by Dent, will be a joy to those who plan to visit that city. The book gives a very complete historical background, a thing which most of us find difficult to sketch for ourselves for any Italian pilgrimage, and includes descriptions of Bologna’s treasures, a satisfying plan for seeing the town, and a map. It was plainly written by a student who loves the stones of Bologna—stones which will speak to one who knows how to ques- tion them, as the preface says. Major C. M. Enriquez has given us a most refreshing and stirring book in A Burmese Arcady, published by Lip- pincott. One wants to go immediately to this little-known peninsula to see mountains, rare birds, rubies, awe-in- spiring rivers, and engaging yellow peo- ple whose customs are, perhaps, more quaint than hygienic. Major Enriquez writes as a soldier, a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, and a sym- pathetic friend of the people. His style is all too brief, but his book serves most thrillingly to give a wider view of a land which many of us knew only as the “Road to Mandalay.” Do not give this book to any one who can afford to emigrate to Burma and whom you would miss. John T. Faris, in his latest travel book, Seeing the Middle West, published by Lippincott, has mar- shalled together an amazing number of facts, both geographical and _his- torical, concerning the vast regions of the Middle West, and they are pre- sented to us in a new light in Dr. Faris’s interesting and pleasing style. He points out our own startling* ignorance of this part of the coun- try, which is as truly the vital core of America to-day as it was almost a century ago, when the first seekers after wealth went out into the un- known mining lands to lay claims that have since yielded fabulous amounts in gold, silver, copper, and lead. He paints a vivid picture of the beautiful world west of the Mississippi, a world little realized or appreciated by the large majority of Easterners. The book is rich with illustrations drawn from pho- ye. Ge ce | (Continued from page 148) VOGUE READ tographs of many scenes and landmarks notable for their beauty and historical value. No more interesting or instruc- tive book has been written by Dr, Faris than this splendid new addition to his well-known travel series. There are two types of travel books, just as there are two ways of travelling. There are books that guide us grimly through the large foreign cities with a meticulous attention to meals, luggage, and transportation, and there are books that merely accompany us on a pro- tracted jaunt across the world, creating for us the actual experience of travel without any of the troublesome details, A Dash Thru Europe, by Esmond G, Gress, published by Oswald, is so literally a “dash” that the travel- thirsty reader feels cheated. The au- thor has spared no pains in presenting us with his exhaustive array of facts, The volume is very interestingly com- piled, illustrated lavishly with scenes photographed by the author, and con- tains a world of valuable information concerning costs and equipment, be- tween its covers; it lacks spontaneity and the atmosphere of the places into which it takes us. Mr. Gress, more- over, does not appear to be enjoying himself. “I went to the book fair in Florence, held in what were once the royal stables, an interesting loca- tion. .. . There was a garden restau- rant on the grounds and I ate lunch there. I have had worse meals but not many.” We wonder, a bit chagrined, why he went at all. We are travelling on a strict schedule to which we are rigorously held throughout the jour- ney, and the imagination, prone to loiter among picture-galleries, ancient ruins, and the like, is only permitted to indulge itself between trains, and even then is restrained by a hurried sense of imminent departures. In London, Paris, Rome, and Florence, we are obliged to give too much of our lim- ited time to printing-houses and speci- mens of old type, which seem to be the author’s ruling passion; he calls the subject “shop,” and we tolerate it on those grounds. Fairly summarized, the book is a little too technical and too hurried for the dreamer who thinks of Europe in terms of delightful old gar- dens, vaulted cathedrals, hours of rich idleness, and the ever-recurring nov- elty of change and surprise; but, for the layman who earnestly desires in- formation as to tickets, the cost of eating, the comparative chances of escaping seasickness, and how much not to tip a Parisian cabby, we recom- mend it as a first-rate guide. The Bedside Library is the title of a new series of books, announced by Dutton, which aims to fill a special niche in the needs of the lover of books. For, in both contents and form, the volumes are in accord with the uses indicated by the title of the series. They are attractively made and bound, light to handle, easy to hold, and have been selected for their special ability to help create and tune in with that bedtime spirit that most pleasantly and helpfully prepares the mind for the temporary oblivion of sleep. Half a dozen volumes, including The Para- bles and Sayings of Jesus Christ, The Life and Death of Socrates, The Gold- en Book of St. Augustine, The Life and Death of Sir John Falstaff, The Little Decameron, and Cranford have already been issued, to be followed by Consid- erations, by Ralph Waldo Emerson, 4 Book of Friendship, an anthology of prose and verse on this subject, Three Stories, by Balzac, and The Plain Man’s Prayer Book, an inspiring an- thology of prayers.

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151 E October 1 D Chauffeurs’ Outtits rks cal ° ic Suit, Overcoat and on Cap to Match ks, ; $7() ly a ae, : ks Suit $32.00 - Overcoat $35.00 “4 Cap $3.00 . Smartest. Most | serviceable. Made u- of durable, all-wool . Oxford Gray 7 Whipcord. All os = oe - we arwieenenmenied NEW FALL SHIRTINGS n j e- latest fashions, Our Showing of Distinctive Shirtings in Finest y Send today for Book- Quality affords wide choice from the Largest and . se Chart and Measure most Unusual Assortments we have ever assembled > orm. Shows what the g well-groomed Chauf- Shirts to Measure from $8.00 upward n kn = — e i asy to order by mail. Sf. Sj PP, & © - i @ 46 SHIRTMAKERS AND HABERDASHERS , (oc thevs 512 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK : America’s Headquarters for Chauffeurs’ Apparel PARIS, 2 RUE DE CASTIGLIONE : Broadway at 49th Street, New York City t ee 1 — a) i/4 eee eeeesaeeesteeceeees FeSesee ee ceies Discriminating women turn instinctively to Baker footwear for assurance of authentic style, excellent quality and workmanship. Au- tumn’s most attractive moods find expression in our display of distinctive styles, decidedly new! pe cw esoucceucet Tir Pattern above in: All Black Satin, Bronze Kid, White, Silver or Gold Brocade; Combinations of Patent, Mat Kid and Suéde in newest shades. Hosiery to Harmonize OK AvalKor LOS ANGELES HOLLYWOOD DETROIT PORTLAND SAN FRANCISCO Peeve ccsecceee re cteceeens: SS rene cece swear eee eee eee eeeaeeetsetee Seoncaccceseseveccertcccssreetes

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Exclusive Parisian World KLYTIA For over 23 years this famous trade mark has been known to women in the high- circles of Paris and in Europe, as the most scientifically reliable preparations for the complexion that can be produced. No matter what cype of skin, or what diffi- culties in the care of your complexion you may have, there is among the famous Institut de Beauté preparations, a treat- ment especially de- signed to meet your Personal, individual needs. If your regu- lar toilet goods dealer cannot supply you, write to our New York office, and we will advise you promptly and in con- dence just the method you should pursue amous Beauty Secrets of the Now Available to the Women of America ARISIAN women, famous for their beauty and smartness of appearance the world over, have for over a generation, considered the cele- brated beauty treatments of the Institut de Beauté, as their exclusive possession. Only those American women who could actually go to Paris could secure those famous prepara- tions. American women will be glad to know that these jealously guarded secrets are now no longer the exclusive property of the smart Pari- sian world. By special arrangement we have brought the famous line of preparations to America, and now you may learn for yourself the remarkable results which they give when used in the correct way. Arrangements are now being made to place this famous line in the best known department and drug stores, in the principal cities of the United States. Here these treatments will be explained and demonstrated, so that you, too, can experience the remarkable touch of youth and beauty which they give to their user. INSTITUT pe BEAUTE 26 Place Vendome, Paris, France These famous preparations are distributed in the United States only by GUY T. GIBSON, Inc. 565 Fifth Avenue New York Ask for these goods at the leading depart- ment store or druggist in your town ‘fi they cannot supply you, write us and we will see that you are supplied. Md waa i i ND WMA DD WC: F°’» TLC 8 RWANDA D ND ga COMMA zx John Wallace Gillies MMI CCCC LLL dla The long structural lines of a water-course, showing here and there through thick foliage, create an illusion of distance along this garden slope; A. ]. Bodker, architect eo AR 2 Se E hear much nowadays of the use of the vista in interior deco- ration, but, when we consider the matter seriously, we find that the treat- ment of this length-giving accessory is equally important outdoors. The owner of the small suburban plot naturally wishes to increase, as far as possible, its apparent extent; while even the possessor of the great estate is not in- different to his domain’s appearing— well, we may say, fully as ample as it really is. Various devices there are by which the apparent area of grounds may be enlarged, in many cases by just such devices as those which are used within doors for the attainment of a similar end; and the study of these grounds, to see how an appear- ance as spacious as possible may be given them, is a task as well worth while for the landowner, large or small, as for the interior decorator. There are two ways in which the garden may be made to seem larger, and each of these is diametrically the opposite of the other. The first is, briefly, by a lavish profusion of plant- ing—by thick shrubbery, by beds of tall-growing perennials, by the con- struction of what the English prettily call a “wilderness”—so that each of the many portions into which the grounds are divided may seem, when entered, to be made a distinct unit through the agency of skilful planting. Since there will be many of these units and since no two will meet the eye simu'ta- neously, they will be seen. at least men- tally, as almost indefinite in extent. Such a method of treatment may seem at first glance to result in the cutting - tp A S By AMELIA LEAVITT HILL up of the grounds into a series of small and ineffective pockets, but, in fact, this is not the case. The result is actually a series of nooks, which is, in its details, so charming and, in the total effect, so unusual, that ‘the ex- tent—or lack of it—of their sum total does not suggest itself to the observer. There is a certain garden, well known to flower enthusiasts, where this plan has been elaborately carried out, and the results speak so powerfully for the method used to secure them that who- ever recalls it will stand in need of no further argument to agree as to its great effectiveness. Here, the beds are arranged in festoon shape, curving about so that each one encircles the tiny space allotted to the nook of which it forms the boundary. Each of these curving beds is backed by a heavy planting of evergreens, of shrubs, and of flowering trees—such as the dogwood and the flowering thorn—, all so closely set together that the visitor, upon entering each little close so formed, seems entirely shut off from the rest of the world and is amazed to find, upon investigation. how small a space is actually covered by the whole garden and how many tiny labyrinths are open to his foot. Borders of thickly massed perennials may also play their part in such a transformation scene; a summer-house or a tea-house may be set at an angle where it will shut off a revealing view: a wall or a gate, especially if embedded in vines or flowers. may well play its part in this same creation of extent. thongh this. like the trees which are emnloved, will (Continued on page 154)

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October 1 oy ae | Ra x 5 if Wi 2 Hadem | Grand Rapids | A , . 3 || Sparkling Diamond i iy) | and } y | A Radiant Pearl are not as beautiful to be- | K ; hold, nor as cherished a fi C iets ye ee as a nr e { complexion nourished to f Maternity Corsets nae Ai Lane Bryant is the ? *| largest house in the world Madame: Vi2 bl bc ae a SS A A NA NZ NA NZ NZ a Na NAS Naz Na Na a7 Sa7 SAZ SA H selling Maternity Apparel | daily to thousands of ex- Your ‘Private Office!’’ © | pectant — . & A The famous Lane Bryant A Shaw Spinet makes an ideal business headquarters “| Corset is the per fected prod- of the home. Here may one’s private correspondence, BEAUTY hy uet of 20. years of expe- one’s household accounts, bills, receipts and memo- PR ODUCT fj) rience. It is the best corset randa be kept. Not only beautiful pieces of furniture S -| in the world. Made in our in design, style, workmanship and finish, but Shaw Fi workrooms. Spinets are wholly practical as well. | nor do the finest settings B 3.95 6.95 to 12.50 There is aShaw Spinet for your home. So wide is theta these jewels a more -| If unable to call, write Dept. the variety of sizes, patterns and styles from which to precious _ appearance than ) V1 for Free Style Book choose that unquestionably you can find exactly what Desti's Rouges and Pow- U L B t your home requires. And, too, at a price you wish to | ders give to the face. . ane Dryan Ail Used by American women 1 Wri . 510 f handsomely ill ed booklet, “A 2 21 W. —— wan’ 39th St. identifier pone one owe in Rie bias,” caelee in on of — Spins for seneag 15 years. H . rn en Shaw Spinet. of grace and chasm. Pure ingredients and excel- anover ace nr. . : Fi BROOKLYN : ' lent quality are their best y oun DETROIT H. E. SHAW FURNITURE CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. recommendation. — MT TT eS A TT pees Rs r "Sod yO?” oy aa LK) bee , Red Red Rouge.........$1.50 St : 3 shades, Light, Medium and Dark Paste for the lips. Stays on 24 hours “Kiss me, it won't come Ws ce nn We cS es 2.00 Liquid Rouge for the lips Aurore Rouge large)...... 3.00 A Powder Rouge for the face Stays on 24 hours Aurore Rouge (small)..... 1.50 ¥Geth ROCs 2.5 fac... 4.25 Desti Face Powder, Shades 48 Ld Sunburn, Mauve, Ocre, BOND STREET Rachel, Chair, Blanche... 2.25 Eye Shade Blue or Buff). 1.50 = — ot A New Perfume by Yardley Desti Vanishing Cream... 2.25 q = aes es ARR ee Sane A An excellent powder base ; ¢ ‘ Kien discriminating find in “BOND STREET’ Dest Cleansing Croan . p PA [th lai l z an exquisite and alluring odor possessing all the For removing ioe mae ead “= | Y poetry and romance of the perfumer’s art. Done Desti Skin Feed : When ™ an icured, Gorm in extract, face powder, talc, sachet and lipstick. gamer Gipenddead Saag, ou may readily experience the charm of Desti Special Use Unguent. 2.25 In conjunction with Youth Lotion Natures Jewels on‘Your Hand ; TE. D STREET,” there is the trial size—a cut- lass, gold-capped bottle for the purse or vanity . : The nightly application of Laird’s | g. ONE DOLLAR at all good stores, or direct gives skin a healthy look | ee Seren, 15 Wee If not at your dealer write direct to Nail and Cuticle Cream -proviues a 36th Street, New York. —— —_ for the hor Li ge so 1 LIONEL TRADING COMPANY 1 up nails that are cracked, brittle, Cry ~~ J » INC. and ridged, and it eliminates the | YARDLEY 8 New Bond Street LONDON 320 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK weanipas. dry cuticle that occasions — Makers of Yardley’s Incomparable Lavender Soap U. S. Distributors ang-nail. Apply the Cream at night, around the = | base of the nails with an orange-wood stick. Your nails will gain the vigorous health that makes them show the ‘‘pink’’ of condition. Manicuring, after Laird’s Nail and Cuticle Cream has softened the cuticle, may be perfectly done without causing soreness. Send one dollar for a jar and my new book, ‘‘Winning Beauty from the Passing Years,’’ which gives instructions how to hold the bloom of youth on face, hair, neck and hands. q Laird’s Nail & Cuticle Cream ROSE LAIRD Salon for Skin and Scalp Culture — 17 East 48th St., N. Y.C. || ; Near 5th Avenue k London Paris AAMT OO PTE Z Q, iN Done x [Mince ee

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= ~ 9 Crépe de Chine & Crépe Sparkle Favored Fabrics for Fall and Winter styles are the new Heminway Crépes and Satins. Silken Fabrics Lead the Mode [HE soft loveliness of Heminway Crépe de Chine, shown in this delightful evening gown, is enhanced by the dependable texture and quality typical of all Heminway Silks. Crépe Sparkle, in the knicker frock of the little girl, is an ideal fabric for children’s garments, since its beauty and adaptability are backed by long wear. Ask to see Heminway Crépe Fairé and Crépe Sparkle in the dress goods department of your favorite store. THE H. K. H. SILK COMPANY OF NEW YORK, INCORPORATED 120 E. 16th Street, New York EMINWAY, jis ef ade by the makers of HEMINWAY SEWING SiTE Ss o ~ ~. i, a John Wallace Gillies House and lily pool, suitably placed among encircling trees, form a delightful vista at “Planting Fields,” the Oyster Bay estate of Mr. and Mrs. William R. Coe; Walker and Gillette, architects GAR DEN be more effective in a small space, if it is moderate in size. Nothing dwarfs small grounds more surprisingly than the monumental would-be adornment of wall, pergola, or gateway type; and, when a miniature effect is to be pro- duced, the obvious discrepancy be- tween small, secluded groupings of plants and flowers and the man-made erection suitable in s ze for extensive grounds is quite obviously both in bad taste and ineffective. USES OF THE PERGOLA If the land has just been reclaimed, a portion of it may be left in woods, and a little “woodsy” path constructed, which, following the line of least re- sistance—real or apparent—, may wan- der about, giving, both by length and contour, a feeling of space far greater than that which the original cleared extent of the domain would have ob- tained for it. The pergola, too, may be utilized to this same end and, cov- ered with vines, will merge into the rest of the landscape imperceptibly and delightfully, either retaining or relinquishing its prominence as it is stressed or suppressed at the pleasure of its owner. Both as a barrier and as a means of producing space, the per- gola is not to be despised, and, what- ever method be adopted to increase the apparent extent of the garden, the pergola will be found to play its part equally well in each. In large grounds, somewhat the same methods may be effectively followed to make them appear still larger, save that, here, the moderate size of walls, pergolas, and gateways need not be so strictly insisted upon. Large grounds, however, may be made to seem almost endless in extent by applying treatment which, in small grounds, gives the mere result of spaciousness. Grounds | of this type are likely to have a cer- tain amount of woodland included in them, and, when this is so, the increase of space becomes almost automatic. Woods, in themselves, give this effect to a great degree; if they possess heavy underbrush, the winding path previ- ously mentioned will seem longer and the wood larger than ever—consider- ably larger than the little wood of evergreen which will boast no under- brush at all. A lawn, too, running down to a leafy shelter suggests in- definite extent beyond it, with the im- (Continued from page 152) 7-238 A S plication that it might have reached much further if it would, even though the wood in which it ends may run, but a few feet beyond, into wall or road. The second method of making the grounds look larger, reference to which has already been made, is the direct opposite of the former one. In it, the garden owner eschews labyrinths and woodlands and lays out his grounds for all the world to see, making them as open as possible, emphasizing his straight, longitudinal lines, exactly like the interior decorator, and, by his use of colour and of the expedients so often successfully used within, gaining the appearance of spaciousness which he desires. The long, straight walk, for example, by its very length of line, always appears longer than it really is. By skilful use of the decorator’s and architect’s devices, its length may be increased, if not an hundredfold, by a very considerable extent. If this very path of which we have been speaking be built up until it rises a little at its further end—not perceptibly so, of course, but enough to emphasize the effect produced by the perspec- tive—, its apparent length will be in- creased. If it be narrowed a trifle at the further end, as well—again only enough to emphasize the same _per- spective—, it will appear still longer. In the Cathedral at Pisa, the same expedient is employed to gain a similar object, to quote one concrete instance of a device frequently employed by architects long ago, not always, indeed, so very long ago, and its practicability and its result are matters of fact, not of chance or of imagination. To this, too, we may add that axiom of in- terior decoration which teaches the increased effect of distance produced by the use of pale colours. If, then, the path in question be bordered by flowers that gradually grow paler in hue, until they end, at the end of the walk, in a mass of white; or, if the path disappear in a clump of trees with light coloured foliage, such as the blue spruce or the silver poplar, a feel- ing of increased distance will result. THE VALUE OF A DOUBLE BORDER It is sometimes possible, too, to em- phasize the application of such treat- ment. The longitudinal line of a pale coloured border-planting, for instance. (Continued on page 156)

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October 1 ei, i} fort: ORG Woedroom There is an irresistible appeal in the lustrous beauty and wonderful utility of Wilkinson Quilts. Dainty, light, fluffy, they provide a delicious warmth ‘and comfort. Their dis- tinctive individuality is a source of pride to their owner and they add a touch of culture and refinement to any guest room In sat- isfaction to the giver and real pleasure to the woman who receives it, a Wilkinson Quilt makes an Ideal Christmas Gift Our designs are original, exclusive and copy- | righted. hey are executed by needle- workers of unusual skill and dexterity. The scalloped edge is distinctive. We use only the highest quality materials—Belding, Cheney and Corticelli silks, imported Liberty satins and beautiful sateens—with finest lamb’s wool filling. Made in correct shade to harmonize with any color scheme. Easily dry cleaned. Beautiful and practical. Send for new book of Wilkinson Quilts, Applique Quilis, Baby Quilis and Couch Covers. To avoid possible dis- appointing delays, place orders early Sor your Christmas deliveries. he Wilkinson Sisters

pT Department O sy pe} Ligonter, Indiana ( Ligon

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156 TvgUide ATO NONLAUAANTUN NUMAN i SMSO (i SSamasiks it TOS Dok 4G) Lo I 2, Zw. ai Op TS Tall MICOS, OMOMOMC ro MX WTI MMAR 0) fay MEMONCTNAN EMTS The Unexpected Guest What a bevy of thoughts this news brings. Happy thoughts and fear thoughts. Happy thoughts of a meeting of old friends, and fear thoughts for your preparations, and the success of your entertaining. Always uppermost are thoughts of the floral decora- tions throughout your home, and especially those for your dining table. But not so if you have your own greenhouse, for into it you can step and pick your own roses and smilax for the dinner decorations, not to mention blue corn flowers and daisies for the breakfast table, and as for the guest room, a handful of delicate, fragrant sweet peas make that unexpected guest feel that he is an expected one. Such are the joys—the contentments of having your own glass garden—one of our greenhouses. ord & G. BUILDERS OF GREENHOUSES AND CONSERVATORIES Irvington New York New York 30 E. 42nd St. Philadelphia Land Title Bldg. Boston—11 Little Bldg. Cleveland 407 Ulmer Bldg, Chicago Cent. Bank Bldg. Kansas City Commerce Bldg. St. Louis 407 Carrie Ave. nver 1247So. EmersonSt. Buffalo White Bldg. St. Louis 704 E. Carrie Ave. Toronto Harbor Commission Bldg. MOM MOU MEM DN OMOMAMOMOTPOMS MIGNON) COTO TASTES TTSTIROAIKEDIII CES COICO CON Mi Oli OokSriGenron Ke — = = 5 2 3 F red = E Y — S = rm KAR) = — Ss wz S) = Ls] 9) = S = = & s a 4 —4 gy = Ly S = Ss = S _— i & = = G SS ES tS) iS = eI _4 = © = 2 = e +4 Az 5 = g : 4 ‘QTCOMTE HG GN TG TOTTCSTICEST y ——— X aa AG (G AX aS : MMIGAAOUUAONALANGNUANASULASESNNENEAU AENEAN Te GARDEN VOGUE VIi-S TAS (Continued from page 154) may be reinforced and strengthened by a moderately tall border of perennials behind it, or even by one in which perennials and annuals together form a harmonious whole. Not only will the colour treatment be emphasized by such a scheme, but the longitudinal line will be twice marked instead of once, and its effect, while not doubled, will be far more successful. It may be objected that such a hand- ling of the vista problem as has been suggested will be effective only so long as the path or vista in question is studied from the end which has been used as.a base for the making of the plan. That this is not the case is shown by the very architectural paral- lels which we have drawn. The Ca- thedral of Pisa does not fail in its effect when seen from the altar. Our garden path, in the same way, will not seem distorted or out of proportion when seen in reverse from its further end. Much, of course, lies in the car- rying out of the theory, so that it will be effective in practice. Overempha- sized, it might prove grotesque, but overemphasis is quite unnecessary. It is only to be borne in mind that the assistance given to perspective is to be suggested rather than clearly shown. Again, it is to be remembered that the path will rarely be studied from its further end. More persons observe the garden from a central vantage-point than explore its fastnesses. One other aid to the obtaining of space must be mentioned, in the. case of the landowner who is fortunate VOGUE HIS service is maintained for the convenience of our readers. Al- most any illustrated article which is not available locally may be pur- chased through Vogue, or the name and address of the shop will be fur- nished upon request when accompanied by a self-addressed and stamped en- velope. Articles not illustrated may be ordered and are personally chosen by our staff of trained shoppers. Please observe the following rules in sending an order: WRITE PLAINLY. It is advisable to print your name and address. When ordering articles to be sent to another person, give your own address and that of the consignee. If the article is too heavy for parcel post, remit suf- ficient for expressage, as it will other- wise be sent collect. REMITTANCES. As a purchasing agent, Vogue Shopping Service can not send articles C. O. D., carry charge ac- counts, or charge purchases to indi- vidual accounts at the shops. Send money order, certified cheque, or cheque on a New York bank to cover the price of articles ordered. If the price is not known, be sure to send sufficient, as any balance will be re- funded. Remittances should be made payable to Vogue Shopping Service. DELIVERIES. The price quoted in the magazine includes a very small service charge for postage and _inci- dentals. Articles too heavy to go by parcel post are sent express collect. Some shops charge extra for crating goods such as glass, furniture, or milli- nery, and, in such case, the customer will be notified of the charge after the order is filled. BE EXPLICIT IN ORDERING. State all necessary measurements. Be specific as to colours. giving a second choice whenever possible: for hats, give head-size; for shoes, send an outline of stockinged foot standing. enough to include a hillside among his possessions. Much mav be done with this, for there is no “lay of the land” more adaptable to the creating of dis- tance. A summer-house may be raised upon land above a pool, water may be conducted down in a series of small cascades, steps may be erected, curving delightfully and losing themselves amid the woods leading to a tea-house or to a viewpoint, all in the most charming and varied ways. The hillside is always apt to involve woods, for the simple reason that little save trees will grow there, if it be steep, without the ex- penditure of much time, energy, and money in terracing and levelling: and all the possibilities of woods already re- ferred to apply in even greater force to the wood upon the hi.lside, where the perspective is already emphasized, where wandering paths are the order of the day, and where the smallest distance and the least incline bring about results out of all proportion to the work involved. The latter is, indeed, little in itself, requiring merely the exercise of some taste, some garden training, and the ability to make the most of everything the gods provide; but it may be noted that much has been provided with even a surprisingly small extent of ground and that the reward of the canny landscape-gardener will be sur- prising to himself, as well as to his friends, when he begins, by experiment and by application of decorative and architectural rules, to find how great are the actual possibilities of the vista in landscape-gardening. SHOPPING SERVICE RULES WHEN ORDERING AN ARTI- CLE ILLUSTRATED IN THE M4AG- AZINE. Give the date of the issue and the page upon which the article is mentioned or pictured. When order- ing books, give both title and author’s name whenever possible. DISCRETIONARY ORDERS. We will be pleased to shop for articles not illustrated in the magazine; a staff of expert shoppers is maintained for that purpose. Please explain as care- fully as possible the type of article desired and the approximate amount you wish to spend, but rely to a rea- sonable extent upon the shopper’s discretion. ARTICLES NOT RETURNABLE. Millinery, neckwear, veils, toilet goods, articles made to order, and cut lengths of material are not returnable. Other articles, if for valid reasons unsatisfac- tory, may be returned for credit or ex- change. In exceptional cases, when an article is not exchangeable, the cus- tomer will be notified before the actual purchase is made. RETURNED ARTICLES. Arti- cles returned for exchange or refund should be sent to Vogue Shopping Ser- vice, 19 West 44th Street, and not to the shop from which they were pur- chased. We can not be responsible for delays in adjusting accounts unless this rule is strictly followed. SAMPLES. We can not send sam- ples, but will suggest names of shops upon request accompanied by self- addressed and stamped envelope. INQUIRIES. Readers making in- quiries should always enclose a self- addressed and stamped envelope. TELEGRAMS. It is sometimes nec- essary to communicate by telegraph. When it is obviously to the sole in- terest of the purchaser, the telegrams are sent collect.

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October 1

STAND HANG CLAMP Anywhere

L.REIST [amps

157 ita Me 2 | fF

Decorated Ivory Pattern

Makes Any Hat Fit <Any Head No Sewing No Stitching

uniorlit Light where you want it The Handy ‘‘Personal’’ Lamp

Regardless of the size of hat or style of headdress, the DeLeon Bandeau holds your hat snugly and comfortably at the most be- coming angle. Inserted in any hat in a few seconds—merely a push on the prongs. Nothing else like it. Millions in use. Handiest little lamp you ever owned. In- genious clamp and adjustments suggest hun- dreds of adaptations no ordinary lamp can fill. Very individual. You'll want to keep it for personal use. A direct light, just where you wantit. Fine for dresser, chair back, bed, piano, sewing machine; and for those scores of other places without convenient lighting fixtures.

ONE is accustomed to regard the creations of the French Bootery as authentic forerunners of the Parisian mode “=, “+, The ZFallace A smaller lamp than the Ju- niorlite. Known for years for its handy compactness. Has If your milliner or dealer can- not supply you, send us 25c with dealer’s name and we will NONA. In Patent Leather $16.00 clamp in base; also hangs on i i rg : ; j ; send one promptly postpaid. a on arias Many tasteful finishes, decorated and plain Sune oie Wack or Silos Brown Suede with Tan A see ine: 35c¢ in Canad Tr eae ste ; Ask your dealer to see our full line: 35c in Canada. —, i+ ape — The (7RESST- UNIORLITES.......... $4.50Up a...” wae ALLACE LAMPS... 2.50 “ Hae tiiniave Largest ofthe family. A dig- GREIST LAMPS..-...." 5:00 « DE LEON BANDEAU COMPANY nified reading lamp in many DO-ALL-LAMPS......... 5.00 2127 Locust Street St is, Me . Louis, ‘ Write for Style Series ‘‘V’’ Depicting the newest of the new French modes for Fall artistic finishes. Hook folds out of base for hanging on chair back, bed or elsewhere. Also attaches to the wall. In brushed brass, decorated and plain ivory and many other tasteful finishes. DEALERS—For the first time a_complete line of } Dealers: See your job- adjustable lamps to sell at $2.50 up. Write for our sell- ( ber. If he cannot sup- ing plan. Mi ply you, write us, giv- THE GREIST MFG. CO., Dept. V, New Haven, Conn. ing jobber’s name. Specialists in Precision Manufacturing Since 1871. pitAdee s The French Bootery, Inc. 36 West 50th Street New York City

| | SUPPLIED WITHOUT END HOOKS, WITH

REGULAR END HOOKS) OR WIDE END HOOKS, AS ILLUSTRATED By Using Home Treatments of RITZ-VENUS SALT « Ritz-Venusalis»

Since 1860—the one best glycerine soap! HE bath room or wash room which contains a cake of No. 4711 White Rose Glycerine Soap is made luxurious by that one touch alone! Such a delightful sensation of mildness in its use! Such a faint, agreeable perfume and richness of creamy, purifying lather! Take a cake home today, —or a box. Your favorite shop has it. White Rose LTT lycerine Soap Enjoy Also! No. 4711 Eau de Cologne — the genuine old-fashioned Cologne water, made the same since 1792—and No. 4711 Bath Salts—which come in seven exquisite perfumes. Nothing like these Salts for softening the water and exhilarating the bather! MULHENS & KROPFF, Inc. 25 W. 45th St. New York Made in U. S. A.

| : The Best There Is |‘ will pay you to ask your jeweler for a Sturdy Bracelet, the standard, and pre- ferred by leading watch manufacturers. Sturdy Bracelets are stylish, finely made, yet built to give long wear. The ribbon buckles and expansion links come in white, green or yellow solid gold or in Sturdy white, green or yellow gold filled. Wide End Hook shown in ee OOO Oe Oe Pee PPP PP Pee Pe ere err ee Pre 7595 the illustration eliminates all the bother of POST TYPE

sewing on. Write for illustrated folder J. F. STURDY'S SONS COMPANY BOX 24, ATTLEBORO FALLS, MASS. Makers of Sturdy Chains and Bracelets for fifty-eight years =| STURDY Bracelets for Watches A new and wonderful treat~ ment for flesh reduction in a simple and most effective form. A positive and relia~ ble method that anyone can use. Cartons by Mail $5.00 ©? $10.00 THE ELO-BATHS Ritz-Caritton Hore 46th St. & Madison Ave. New York Cily acticictcth dt tatiana te in nth dt bd bd % a ke

POST TYPE tty Ke ne

tials dade dtd dt bk

Page 172

ee Se eee To Retain those Eyes of Youth One's age first begins to show about the EYES. But women are often unmindful of this, and through neglect or improper care allow their EYES to become dis- colored, dull and heavy looking. Murine will do much to preserve and enchance the natural beauty of the EYES. It quickly soothes away discoloration and imparts a youthful sparkle to even the most neglected EYES. Harmless, of course. Our attractively illustrated book, “Beauty Lies Within the Eyes,” tells how to prop- erly care for your Eyes, Brows and Lashes, and thus enhance their beauty. Send for : copy of this helpful book. It's FREE. The Murine Company Dept. 31, Chicago URINE for Your EYES Widely a Since 1889 | “Looking Glass, Looking Glass, on the wall, Who in the Land is the Fairest of all?”’ Perhaps your mirror, like that of the Queen in the Fairy Tale, cannot lie to you. Perhaps it reflects sadly that you have one or two blemishes that prevent you from being really beautiful. Perhaps It Says Accusingly— Oily Skin and Blackheads! Valaze Blackhead and Open Pore Paste will dislodge blackheads and refine yo enlarged pores which result from them $1. Valaze Beauty Grains, a soap substitute, is a penetrative wash which checks ex- cessive oil, removes blackheads and refines texture $1.00 Valaze Liquidine is a refreshing mild astringent which prevents “‘shine,” closes and refines the pores and clears the skin $2.00 Sunburn, Tan and Freckles! Valaze Freckle Cream will obliterate long-standing freckles and aid in whitening the face, arms and hands $1. Valaze Bleaching Cream removes all discolorations from the skin and restores it to delicacy and purity of coloring Lines, Wrinkles, Relaxed Muscles! Valaze Eau Qui Pique if your skin is oily, and Eau Verte if dry, will act as a power- ful stimulant, rejuvenator and tightener z Valaze Roman Jelly, or in advanced cases, Valaze Georgine Lactee firms the contour, eliminates lines and prevents flabbiness. Roman Jelly $1.00 Georgine Lactee Valaze Anthosoros is an extremely rich nourishing cream which remedies and corrects lines and is a specialty for crowsfeet $1.75 Sallow, Dull and Lifeless Skin! Valaze Beautifying Skinfood, the basis of all beauty building, promotes the growth of skin cells, and thus overcomes faded, muddy and discolored appearance. It is abso- lutely essential to the skin health that makes for a fine and flawless complexion. . $1.00 Valaze Pasteurized Cream has been called the cream of a thousand uses. It is suitable to all ages and all types of skin as a cleansing, massage and nourishing cream. It whitens, refines and purifies the skin and should be used in conjunction with all the Valaze preparations to complete and augment their effect Send to Dept. V for Fall and Winter Leaflet 30 N. Michigan Ave. a Arcade Bldg. Chicago Detroit 126 Rue F’Brg. St.Honore hein 24 Grafton St. W. 1 Paris London 46 West 57th St., New York Reduce Your Flesh in spots— Arms, Legs, Bust Double Chin, etc. N fact, the entire body, or any part,can be reduced » without dieting by ™ dissolving the fat 4 through perspira- tion produced by wearing my gar- ments. Brassiere—to reduce bust and diaphragm "4 $7.00 Neck and ChinReducer, as illustrated 3.50 Double Chin Reducer - - - © + + 2.50 Dr atcinaggaa — Unlike other meth- ods of reducing, the first cost is the ONLY cost. My medicated rubber . undergarments have been worn by men and women for twenty years. High belt, reduces hips, abdomen, diaphragm andthighs - $12.00 Arm Reducers, shoulder toelbow - - 10.0 Shoulder to wrist 13.00 Feats: al Anklets, for : ; reducing and =" shaping thean- se" kles. Sendankle measurement. Per pair - - - Extra high - - Send i. illustrated booklet ® JEANNE B. WALTER io Fifth Avenue, New York City Suite 605, Office entrance near 36th St. Philadeivhia Representative: San Francisco Representative: MARY KAMMERER ADELE MILLAR 221 South 11th Street 229 Post Street ON THE CONTINENT Vogue knows every interesting place, every smart season, every brilliant personage in the spotlight of the moment. Vogue’s Paris Information Bureau will tell you exactly where to go, when to go, whom to see; and will even buy your tickets, by rail, steamer or air, make your reservations, and secure you special privileges. Some of the events of the coming season are: races; San Remo, on the Italian In France: Grand Prix d’Au- Riviera, i is gay all winter long. tomne at Longchamps; the Au- tumn Salon; Paris Automobile New Transformations Designed and Created by MANUEL in PARIS MADE WITH HIS FAMOUS SIGHT-PROOF Parting are an exact reproduction of nature. Mr. Manuel has just returned from Paris with the latest ideas and styles pertaining to transformations. HAIR GOODS EXCLUSIVELY Booklet on request 29 East 48th St., New York Show in October; the showings of the great couturiers; theatrical season begins in October; the Riviera, Aix-les-Bains and Cham- ounix begin their season in early winter. In Italy: La Scala operatic sea- son opens in November; Rome’s brilliant social season begins; Palermo offers opera and motor In Switzerland; Winter sports at Davos, St. Moritz, Ander- matt, Montreux, and other places. In Africa: One may fly to Morocco nowadays, and much amusement is offered in the Moroccan capital, and in Egypt. It is also in the mode to visit the Near East. There is no charge for Vogue's service. It is our privilege to serve our readers abroad as we serve them at home. VOGUE Numéro deux, rue Edouard Sept P A R I Youthful Beauty For Any Woman The secret of a youthful face will be sent to all women who see their beau- ty vanish- ing orwho have faci- al lines, wrinkles, or other disfig- urements causes nase at anything tudes of women have found the secret of renewe beauty in Kath- vyn Murray's re- markable. Facial Exercises which remove lines, “crow's feet’ and wrinkles; fill up hollows; give roundness to scrawny necks; lift up sagging corners of the mouth and clear up muddy or sallow skins without the use of cosmetics, creams, massage, masks, plasters, straps, vibrators, ‘beauty’ treatments, or other artificial means. The Kathryn Murray Method will chow you how five minutes daily with these simple facial exercises will work wonders. This information is free to all who ask for it. Results Guaranteed Write for this FREE BOOK which tells just what to do to bring back firmness to the facial muscles and tissues and smooth- ness and beauty to the skin. Write today. KATHRYN MURRAY, Inc. Suite 1032 207 So. Wabash Ave. Chicago, Ill.

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October 1 TM ar Lavender This unique and at- tractive Pohlson Gift is a container of wood beautifully hand-dec- orated with lavender flowers. A_ chiffon bag tied with ribbon holds the flowers. It is useful and an orna- ment for a_ lady’s dressing table. To a lover of flowers and gardens this will be a most welcome gift. Only $1.75, postpaid. Ask for No. 4664. made with FAIRY FUEL Beautiful Log Fires If you have an open fireplace, send for a box of this driftwood flame today. Crystals sprinkled on burn- ing logs give beautiful colors to the flame. Harm- less. Box postpaid, 75c. Ask for No. 1384. These are two things from our illustrated Year Book, containing more than 600 gift suggestions—novel things which make attractive gifts forevery | member of the family. Send for a \ copy and make your Christmas shopping a pleasure. It is free. POHLSON GIFT SHOPS Dept. 113, Pawtucket, Rhode Island anny " Gentlewomen who desire to add to their incomes are invited to communicate with Vogue. We wish to increase our staff of field representa- tives. Naturally, we feel that Vogue can best be sold to women of refine- ment by women of refine- ment. Liberal commissions will be paid for subscriptions secured. The work will, of course, be in your own city, among the best class of families. For full details, write to Violet Morgan Subscription Department VOGUE 19 West 44th Street New York City Cee iae it} ia © PRUGLT at B 4 ND NOW—BRUGET! In genuine a Flaconettes, of course—the handy, es fashionable vials in which you carry your favorite perfume wherever you go. If your sense for odeurs is a bit jaded due to sameness and lack of a distinc- tive fragrance—try one of Parfums BRUGET. FLEUR DES ALPES— for instance—is simply adorable. So when you buy your next Flaconette ask for FLEUR DES ALPES. Or send a dollar and we'll mail you a Flaconette, filled with this charming perfume. ) Y . onr">e = orn. 2 oe ee 5 : £f pm, IMPORTERS EXCHANGE, Inc. 220 Fifth Avenue New York FLACONETTES ! THE ORIGINAL, DAINTY PURSE-SIZE CONTAINERS OF PRECIOUS PERFUMES. Pe fan TON hae Wists; “ama 3, ER pCO Ay SS SEB G-~O-s ees: just ‘¢in spots’’ by simply rolling yourself with this carved wooden ‘‘roller.’? The results are easy and sure. ‘Twenty min- utes a day, and the fat rolls away. En- dorsed and in use by leading physicians and physical instructors the country over, NO DIET! NO EXERCISE! If at the end of 9 days trial you are not absolutely satisfied that the reducer will do all that you want it to do—return the reducer and I will send back your money atonce. You risk nothing. Send me your check or money order for $12.50 and I will send your reducer and instruction book pre- paid by return mail, in a plain package. If you prefer— send no money — I will send your reducer and you may pay the postman when he delivers it. Order yours today, or send for free booklet. Or you may buy at— Franklin Simon & Co., New York Woodward & Lothrop, Washington Joseph Horne Co., Pittsburg The Kalathenion, Baltimore City of Paris, San Francisco E. Burnham & Co, Chicago Halle Bros., Cleveland SDPO OOOO EPRODUCING the lines of a rare old Italian vase, this Will-O-Ware Table Bas- ket has unique and _ lasting charm: a decoration you will prize. Made by hand, entirely, and like all the designs which bear this famous name, of selected willows, strong and _ pliant, beautiful and lasting. Our complete line, wide variety, all sizes and prices is described in illustrated catalog. Write for it. Price of table basket, postpaid, 7 inches deep, in standard colors, Woodsy Brown, Meadow Green or Driftwood Grey, $1.75 Price of Fireside, postpaid, size 24 inches, in standard colors (Woodsy Brown, Meadow Green, Driftwood Grey), $7.00. Madison Basketcraft Co. 406 N. Third Street, Burlington, Iowa > Oe AMERICAN dais “hina at ° Ofall Christmas gifts, none is more tasteful than this. The original printed type of note paper—for informal and RLald h .. fr. + uses. Noted for its sterling quality. Used in better homes everywhere. Name and ad- dress printed on Nationa! Bank Bond in rich, dark blue ink. Size of sheet 6x 7; envelopes to match. Sold only by mail from Peru, Indiana. No branch plants. Special facilities insure prompt service. Order a % package now. Remit with order — or, if t at the , we will shi Cc. 0. D. West of Denver and outside of % U.S. add 109. > American Stationery Co. 1021 Park Avenue, Peru, Indiane 200 Sheets 1OO Envelopes PRINTED WITH ANY NAME AND ADDRESS ———— = es | THE AMERICAN STATIONERY CO., 1021 Park Avenue, Peru, Ind, Send me a pack of 200 sheets and 100 envelopes of American Statiozn- ery to be printed as shown on attached slip. (Note: To avoid errors, write or'print copy plainly.) MONEY REFUNDED IF YOU ARE NOT WHOLLY SATISFIED

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EFORE the advent of the LaFayette, fine and costly motor cars were dis- tinguished not so much by performance as by quality of coachwork and length of service. But LaFayette owners tell us that they enjoy from their cars not only that sense of well-being and sustained satisfaction ever associated with products of splendid craftsmanship, but also a superiority of performance they have always anticipated but never previously found. They say that in all their motoring experience they have never known any- thing like the exhilaration and comfort that comes from driving the hundred- horsepower LaFayette. Steadily the conviction that the LaFayette is one of the world’s finest motor cars is finding wider and wider acceptance as the experience of LaFayette owners becomes known LaFayette Morors Corporation, Mi/waukee, Wisconsin LASAYE I TE as oe | a if “REE Ba Bite = , me ] ; BLANCHARD PRESS, INC.,

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My y, Alfred. Cortot at hus Steinwa/ i LS STEINWAY THE INSTRUMENT OF THE IMMORTALS ENEATH his hands ‘the most renowned pianos of the world’ have voiced their great- est glory. His genius has tested every great piano- maker’s work. Yet, for Alfred Cortot, there is but ‘one perfect instrument, the Steinway.’ You who are about to select a piano, do you not find conviction in the experience of this master? What need that you experiment? What guide more sure than this: that since Henry Steinway made his first piano the greatest artists have pre- ferred above all others the instrument that bears his name? Franz Liszt! Wagner! Rubinstein! The Steinway was their piano. It is played and loved by Paderewski, by Hofmann, by Rachman- inoff. Friedman and Levitzki will have no other. Successively each generation of the Steinway famiiy has preserved the purpose that its product shall be as truly the piano of the home as it is the chosen instrument of the concert stage. The qualities that have endeared it to the masters are embodied in every Steinway that is made. Whether you select an upright or a grand piano, for your home there is a Steinway which in tone and touch and action matches that which Cortot plays. Once you have set fingers to such an instrument, once you have known the beauty of its response, for you, thereafter, there can be ‘but one perfect piano, the Steinway.’ There is a Steinway dealer in your community or near you through whom you may purchase a new Steinway piano with a cash deposit of 10%, and the balance will be extended over a period of two years. Used pianos accepted in partial exchange. Prices: Uprights, $875 and up; Grands, $1375 and up; plus freight STEINWAY & SONS, Steinway Hall, 109 East Fourteenth Street, New York City

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JOURS mat 1 tells another eit's enthusiasm —that’ s what it is, Contagious enthusiasm, and it gets you after you've smoked your first pack of Blue Boars. And then, you tell it! i a how the news spreads — “the 19th hole,” ’ on the train, cn the club, over the demi-tasse. One man tells another, because Blue Boar is a man’s cigarette —— a cigarette that is repeating the record of Blue. Boar pipe mix- ture, for 19 years America’s fa- _ vorite fine tobacco. Come, try this great English blend. Blue Boars are real top quality — that’s why they make friends so easily — why ‘‘ one man tells another.”’ © Guaranteed by : 4) aes: SPA AR a RN RR ke TAR LI IE RET AE NE ME I TE 8 SETS RSS SES RARER aL Re MRE

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