Vogue 1918-01-15: Vol 51 Iss 2

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DER TO PEA NOTICE Publisher ES 7 2] < Zz 7 Z 2 Ne outhern

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Voloré Januar

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Shes Your Sentinel of ‘Toilet Purity O preserve the deli- cate purity of a beautiful skin, to win back the tender freshness of a lost complexion that is the toilet mission of the San-Tox Nurse as she smiles up at you from some cheerful blue packet on your toilet table. How many happy, fresh-revived complex- ions smile back in natural pinkness to San-Tox Cold Cream, whose purity has livened and textured the ailing skin! How many sensitive faces thank San-Tox Velvet Lotion for its satined protection from chapping winds! And what a little touch of San-Tox Enchantment Complexion Powder can mean in the way of skin bloom and fragrance and eleganced toilet-charm! San-Tox for Purity so equally effective in 125 San- Tox Toilet and other- than-toilet preparations! And so fitly symbolized by the San-Tox Nurse. SAN-TOX FOR PURITY De Pree uy wy San Fx Velvet Lotion Chicago sy ~vy~ . YS, ENCHANT MENT & COMPLEXION Powoer / “ ats

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era 2 ERNE RR EERE en an ee ee

January 15

ee ee me oe em 8 _~a-m aos

_— ee ee 2a eee eee eeeenaananana.: wiusrinnathantiostandiantinntictag antes tiation tate . om He was eighteen years old when he met a distin- " mencans an opohtan Opera guished bant . who, aher heanng his voice, decided that he would gwe Caruso there the made her début m 1894, and her tome spread repadly. substantia pores He therefore coat him to Maestro Vergne. who aie senna’ ee eons ego f by the beauty and purity of his voice, and began to give him vocal a ‘ ence etunag jeacmneting singer's further Caruso made hus début in 1894 in N, in a now florgotien “amico Fran- eed chhough ” ds mon of her time m Earape, camo, sherward gto hes ae oa in Cano. A 4h dmsien oo in her Victor recor qagsnen: (ellow in Milan, it was clear that here was fecorded exclusively tor the Victor the lit of records eata- ide one San =e ew ris Scias ak acids onions j in verious countnes of Europe belore coming to Amenca in 1903, but it was his per Ne Sire of the Duke at the Metropolitan on November 23d of that year which con. We Likes Bud) In French Bizet 8808S Hj £3.00 vinced opera-goers that the greatest of all tenors had arnved thas Tringies des Ssarres Bier 88124 300 Caruso has made records exclusively for the Victor since 1903. and as the present eee ‘Seatuane © Ais nie noes 12 34 contract with the tenor does not expire until 1933, the public is assured perfect repro He Kind) Jn French Massenet 96130 i ; ductions of his voice for many years to come. ) In Engl oster 68089 | A ee Ee, pan site Cone Se iH ; THE CARUSO RECORDS (Seng in lalien yniess otherwise noted) — No. Sire (Away to Yonder Mountain) Buet 89019 12 4 Aldicans -O Paradiso (Oh, Paradise! Meyerbeer 86054 12 $500 jen mb of God) In Letin Beret 88425 12 3.00 (Klaxmona’ —na arth Aide Celeste Aida (Heavenly Aide) Verds 88127 12 3.00 } Mio (My Love) (Vocal Waltz) Goete-Ricciards 87176 10 200 j F Onte Conte’ ees Tanck A mmm cetemackordHardeit a7tez I 2 | Par Opére Comique, was & .p—. Sve am, Leoncavallo 88335 12 3.00 | for » civil engneer, and Racconto di Rodolle (Rudolph « Narrative) cee 88002 12 3.00 bur his love for munc me Testa edorata (Adored One!) PB ar my a0331 2 t= re, where he was eee ee ler FeserSene' leFuach = act O8208 12 3.00 Gt hw clas He was soon men —Il hor che avevia me (Flower Song wet 88209 12 31K ta Comique, where he rv Addio alla madre (Tunddu's Farewell Mescagni onese 2 3.00 ag over by the Metro. cne—Sichene (Tho ibe Like Berries) Mascagn: 81030 10 2.06 may m America has a Srcthane ‘B eccompamment m 67072 10 24 Ragen! CCS Getic ast IF 3 Clement has made for Meapolian 508) sentil (Solt Beamethe Linht) Donirei 89046 12 3.01 se et at aa ee oe eas ar BAkeaneio commer ‘rewreee Apes!) Bensce: aiau? 1G fi [Piomefor be Le Forge Pesserd 64223 10 S100 demore -Una furtive lagrimas (A Furtive Tear | Aa 8 Doras p44 iz 4 poke Pom Bernar 26 10 emente (For All Eterm), 124 Dwelling!) Jn Freech Gounod 88003 12 3.00 Godard 64233 1.00 ip Se pk Donizetti 88004 12 3.00 forte occ by Le Forge Massenet 74258 12 130 prerite | Spano geneil, ( Window) (Neapolitan Song) 9 12 300 fa Vpn. Beles) Eas 1 B Sas ee Pronahorn ore a aa , Fores del Destino—O tu che in seno og! jeavenly One) $8207 12 3.) a cates HB | aon chindr gh ge gate Tess Orme Eres) French Ses Ie be (Continued on next page) |i) i iH 4 ° e IK music-i0ver Willi Wan I |} \l4 . ° , It has required 20 years of constant research, of steady applica- ly tion, of tireless effort, and the expenditure of more than Eleven > Million Dollars to place this Victor Record catalog in your hands ; 4! | This great book of 542 pages is the recognized authoritative index to the world’s best music; to the greatest 1] musical achievements of all time. iH Its pages are living tributes to the years of unceasing vigil spent in gathering the best music from every por- | tion of the globe. They reflect the hours upon hours which the greatest artists have devoted to recording their iq } . ° . = e.e °aq° » 4) superb art for the delight of all generations. They attest to the enormous amount of time and millions of dollars 13) spent in developing the art of recording to its present state of perfection. And through each and every page »| I ping g g runs the story and proof of Victor supremacy. ) Every music-lover will want a copy of this great Victer catalog of music. Everybody should have this 1} book, whether or not they have a Victrola. All will appreciate it because of the information about artists, operas Ik and composers, and the numerous portraits and illustrations it contains. | \ny Victor dealer will gladly give you a copy of this great catalog >| : Ss - S o ’ . . . a ms > = eq 4 of music, or we will mail you a copy free, postage paid. | Victor Talking Machine Co., Camden, N. J., u.S. A. i Berliner Gramophone Co., Montreal, Canadian Distributors IH id Important Notice: Victor Records and Victor Machines are scientifically coordi- 4 nated and synchronized by our special processes of manufacture, and their use, M4) one with the other, is absolutely essential to a perfect Victor reproduction. 4 New Victor Records demonstrated at all dealers on the Ist of each month y H | e 4 | ictor Supremacy |; : | | ) | I . tL “Victrola” is the Registered Trade-mark of the Victor Talking Machine Company designating || PA the products of this Company only. Warning: The use of the word Victrola upon or in the pro- SS REG. U.S. PAT OFF ’ motion or sale of any other Talking Machine or Phonograph products is misleading and illegal. | — —= —_— —<— : _ — | To insure Victor quality. always look for ‘the famous trade} = _

mark. “His Master's Voice."’ It is on all genuine products 9° ——— =x == == SS ee ne a Er arard = the Victor Talking Machine Company _| a = ae SASASLALAAAAALS = 44 4 = Very

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VOGUE Vogsue’s Spring Fashion Numbers will save you hundreds of dollars in your spring and summer costuming Y consulting Vogue in the purchase of your spring outfit you can save money through eliminating fashion mistakes. Not only will you have before you now—at this important season—Vogue’s forecast of the new silhouette in hats and gowns, Vogue’s information on favored spring colors and materials, and Vogue’s counsel on all-important dress accessories ; but its guidance in choosing your entire summer wardrobe. These six numbers of Vogue cover the entire field of spring and summer fashion: Forecast of Spring Fashions Spring Fashions February | March 15 The earliest and most trustworthy forecast of the Vogue's final pronouncement on the season's mode Spring mode \uthentic information on the correct what is fashionable and why it is fashionable, from fashions for the coming season \n insurance against the top of the smart woman’s tallest aigrette to the the most costly of all wardrobe errors—a wrong start. tips of her correct boots Spring Millinery Paris Openings February 15 April | The hundred best model hats Paris has produced for The complete story of the Paris Openings—the suc- the Sprin f 1918. Correct veils and coiffures, and cessful creations of each couturier, which, taken col- ie Spring o ( S i oif a : lectivelv, determine the mode mode! wns from the earliest Paris openings . , ‘ Spring Patterns & New Materials Smart Fashions for Limited March | Incomes April 15 tire Spring wardrobe rhe new silhouette adapted to Intimate counsel for the woman who wishes to curtail Correct patterns and favored materials for your en pattern form. This number will enable you to halve her dress expense without in the least sacrificing vour dress expense and double vour dress distinction. smartness. What is, and what is not smart economy A thousand times Vogue has said that the gown you buy and never wear is the really expensive gown; that gloves, boots, hats, which miss being exactly what you want are the ones which cost more than you can afford. Ask any really smart woman, and she will tell you that vou can save half your Spring dress allowance—before you have spent a penny of it—if you only will consult these six Spring Fashion Numbers of Vogue and use them as a guide in making vour Spring purchases. We know from experience that each of these six Spring numbers will be sold out almost at once. To save yourself disappointment, fill out the coupon on the corner of this page and hand it to your newsdealer, so that he will be sure to reserve your copies of these Spring Fashion numbers for you. VOGUE Condé Nast, Publisher Edna Woolman Chase, Editor Heyworth Campbell, Art Director 19 West 44th Street, New York City

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January ee & He PAR WOMEN’S SKIRTS length 34 to 42 in. Waist measure 24 to 32 in.: 235—“Royal” Satin Skirt in tw: orchid, gray or green, trimmed with self covered ball button 235A—Of plain satin in white, beige, grav or flesh. 239—Hugh- lustre tg a8 Satin Skirt in hey te witl inset stripes of black, n: lesh or purpl double mode - wide belt l ] I wash ible white satin or Hab utai silk Copenhagen, gold or purple; pleated model: self bone buttons pockets, wide belt; 247A—Same model of washable white gabardine with hairline plaid in blue and gold, purple and black or pink and green. »-tone colorings of light blue, rose, graduated x-pleated 243—Silk Poplin pod in ivory, beige or gr: shirred top mod lel tailored inse | ets two piece deta l al le belt Also of 247—Serge Plaid Skirt, black and white with overstripe of green, corded slash 16.75 14.50 24.50 12.50 14.75 7.50 Jranklin Simon 8 Co. Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Sts., New York Prompt Delivery Free Anywhere in the United States New Models for California and Southern Wear WOMEN’S WAISTS Sizes 32 to 44 Bust 237—Striped Voile Waist in Copen, rose, gold, ; n or lav- ender and white bac k cuffs of self 241—Men’s Wear bine rad “Luxor” tucked bosom fro1 back link cuffs White voile collar, front of waist, also turt material edged with pleated white voile. Silk Waist, cross it ot self material; roll shawl collar, 245—Slip- over Waist of Georgette Crepe in green, Copen, go stripes ; white Ge edged with self-pl 249—Handkerchi rose or lavender: white pique edged ld, navy, rose or black small ( orgette crepe collar and turn-back cu eated ruffle \lso in plain ( 9.75 ef Linen Waist in white, Copen. gold, roll 1 collar and turn-back cuffs of ith hed ruffles

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VOGUE A LUXURIOUS TOWN HOUSE FOR SALE A’ altogether exceptional opportunity to secure a residence in the exclusive Park Avenue district is presented by the appearance on the market of the fine Georgian house at 752 Park Avenue: The house, which is between Seventy-first and Seventy- second Streets, is five stories, with an American base- ment and sub-basement. It has a frontage of twenty- eight feet. Architecturally it belongs Georgian tradition, adapted to city requirements. As a home it is conveniently arranged, complete, modern. Park Avenue is not only exclusive ; it is also attractive—a wide street with a park between the double roadways. Every advantage of this broad outlook has been taken in the arrangement of the rooms. The entrance hall is on the first floor. It leads to areception room on the right and a foyer on the left. Beyond is the dining room—a room of admirable proportions extend- ing the full width of the house. \ wide stairs leads from the first- floor foyer to the second floor. where are the library, a well-lighted room in the front of the house, and the drawing room, from which opens the conservatory in the rear extension. The library is particularly not- able because of the fireplace—an antique marble which was discov- ered in an Italian villa by Stanford White on one of his tours. White was the greatest architectural con- noisseur America has produced and this piece, which was installed in the house under his personal direc- The library fireplace, an antique which Stanford White discovered in Italy 1 boudoir extends the house width on the front joining properties maintain the same character A commodious, well-lighted room of the third floor. tion, is one which he treasured not because of its antiq- uity but because of its quality. The ceiling of the room in which the fireplace is set is, by the way,a heavily gilded Elizabethan design. The walls are panelled in oak. \ boudoir extends across the front of the house on the third floor and forms, with a bedroom, bathroom and closets, a complete suite. The third floor con- the best tains in addition to this suite,a second bathroom and a valet’s workroom. The wood- work is ivory enamel. The fourth floor contains three guest rooms and two baths; the fifth floor a sewing room, a maid’s room, eight servants’ rooms, and a number of store closets. The house is the result not only of architectural taste and skill but of careful planning. The kitchen and servants’ dining room are in the basement; the back stairs ex- tending from basement to the roof, give access for the servants to every part of the house. The laun- dry is on the roof. An electric elevator—the electrical equipment is unusually complete—is one of the conveniences. SPECIFICATIONS: Frontage, 28 feet 2 inches. Depth, 86 feet. Five stories and American basement and sub- basement. Five family bedrooms, with five baths. Ten servants’ bedrooms, with two baths. Basement contains kitchen, servants’ dining room. Laundry on the roof. Six-story extension in rear contains stairs from basement to roof, butler’s pantry, and baths. Taxes for 1916 were $2,815.00. Hours for inspection of this resi- dence will be arranged by appoint- ment. For full particulars address Box C, care of Vogue. A wide stairs leads from the foyer on the first floor

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iq- om led ak. on 9m yn- nd »d- ree he d’s ing January The zest for difficultic Ss the sweep of power that lifts the car to the brow of the longest and st« epest hills—that’s the paramount quality of the Apperson 8. You don’t have to “rush” the hills. A standing start at the bottom a quick pi k-up and vou'll breeze over the top at a spet d that thrills or glide over lazily as you choose. The 8-cylinder motor contains but one camshaft. The ordinary S-cvlinder motor ha two. The \pperson possesses only two cam gears instead of three There is no trigger board on the Apperson 8 motor, and with the elimination of this mechanism I dozens of small trouble-making parts disappear. As far as we know no other &-cylinder in ternal combustion motor is as simple and compact as this one. By the elimination of 80 parts we have made this eight pra tically imple as the old four cylinder the same time, the flexibility, speed and endurance of the 8 cylinder type have been retained, in full measure. Edgar Apperson Elmer Apperson But the effectiveness of the Apperson 8 motor is only typical of \pperson performance throughout. For years the Apperson has delivered big car service at small ] I S car cost. 130-inch wheelbase and all that means in easy riding and good appearance are to be had in the Apperson 8, at a low first cost And the expense of gasoline, oi] and tires 1s exceptionally low. Twenty-five years’ experience explains Apperson worth. To ap preciate Apperson excellence you should drive the car Yourselt Your dealer is ready to give you a demonstration you will remem ber. See him. APPERSON BROS. AUTO CO., Kokomo, Indiana

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ULLUTTUETEOT AEE T TET Have You Been Living Under Glass? VOGI E 000 nee eee Illustration from House & Garden bill me for $1 in due course. Name Street City House & Garden, 19 W. 44th St., New York City Send me the next five numbers of House & Garden, beginning with the February issue. It is my understanding that if this order is received promptly, you will send me an extra complimentary copy of the January New Furniture Number. I inclose $1 (OR) you may State Va > 1S meee en nn nnn enn eee enn You’re tired. But you don’t need medicine. Or a yacht. Ora new family. You need outdoors. You don’t like outdoors? That’s because you ve never taken the trouble to learn what you couid do with it —what it could do for you. House & Garden is the magazine that shows you how you can make your own little bit of fresh air and brown earth into something from which you'll draw big dividends. Optimism always grows in gardens. If the gardener knows how. Five Spring and Summer Numbers of House & Garden | for (Six, if you mail New Furniture Number January The Queen Anne chair with the petit point needlework is good, and expen- sive. The square-cornered, built-in. white-enamelled dressing table with the crystal fittings is just good. You need a big investment to bring big results. But it needn't be money. Often it’: just brains. Read the January Number of House & Garden for examples. House Building Number February Are you hesitating between buying one of those ready-to-wear houses—size 36. with all the fullness in the wrong place —and your own made-to-architect house with individuality in its every line? Stucco-on-stone, half-timber, co- lonial, bungalow—all types are dis- cussed and photographed, inside, out- side, gardenside, in the February House & Garden. Spring Gardening Number March Everything that goes into a garden everything that comes out of a garden —the March number is a little forcing house where the summer’s work is started for you, and the brown earth magic begins. If you never had a gar- den, this number will be your ABC; and if you’re a post-Hooverite, you'll know there’s always more to learn. the coupon now) Interior Decorating Number April Had you heard that we are swinging back to Victorianity? That an infinite range of subtle color has replaced our late barbaric di-cords? ThatJane Austen patterns run riot over furniture cover- ings, window-shades, cushions, garden- beds? That wall-papers are reappear- ing? Love it, or laugh at it— but learn it first—in April House & Garden Spring Furnishing May The windows are open. Spring sunlight makes winter upholstery look so heavy, so stupid! Do you know how to put your house in the mood of summer? \ rose-trellis, a deep wicker armchair, an outdoor breakfast table, a quaint bird-cage—any one of them may change a whole famiiy’s opinion of each other. Garden Furnishing June Do you crave one of those English panne velvet lawns? A white ruled tennis court? A garden pool with blue iris? \ Chinese teahouse, like an impossible bird-cage, to rest under your trees? Everything for your garden, from a black marble fountain to a wicker muffin-stand is in June House & Garden, Sl Invested in House & Garden a tiny fraction of your loss on a single ill-chosen chair Will Save You $100 Just one trifling dollar—a tiny fraction of your loss on a single ill- chosen chair—will bring you House & Garden’s staff of experts for five delightful months—six, if you mail the coupon now. Connois- seur, architect, kennel expert, landscape gardener, interior deco- rator, sanitarian, saleswoman, shopping commissionaire, and friend, are all packed between the covers of House & Garden. You need not send money now. Just mail the coupon today. Your subscrip- tion will begin at once.

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January . Che Hnfluence of Good Taste a at the Hampton Shops T was the vivid intelligence and in- tuitive good taste of the craftsmen | of the Italian Renaissance which make Ww | their work, whether it was the fashion- ing of Furniture or the painting of | | pictures, still live in the estimation of | | people of latter day refinement. At the Hampton Shops the same qualities prevail and make of that Gathering Place of the Decorative Arts a place of compelling delight to those who visit it. Grouped together, are not merely examples of stately or romantically endearing Furniture; but the Velvets and Tapestries, the Carv- ings and Wrought Metal works that help to make one’s Room or House that ‘‘thing of Beauty” which is ‘‘a joy forever.” = | Nampton Shops - 18 Gast 50% Street facing Se. Patricks Cathedral NewYork 3 Decoration Textiles Furniture rm rht vy. ut UA athe waiting ir. int | ige ne me =- QO jj VPRO ARTIC ON Ti Simms mee Ni Reamer eee AMMA EE oii) 0) E7// |)! | ee Ze i a Be. UD ERCP GORY GAG A AYA 0s LA Lu a LOLS nis is? ble ps? la cer & 7 ““ 5 > A 2b rg VM Ef ala i x t “f “Ua e g — 5S EF ; ( 2 \yy Md =a

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VOGUE'S { SCHOOL DIRECTORY

} pf ’ — we { ) ! ay New York OYS' SCHOOLS , B Lar 8 Park Br I g 8 ( 8 I 8 Wabanal ) S’ SCHOOLS A Misses 9 | Mary I Bangs & W 8 Ma 8 Bis rpe ) Maen ; { .- Mont ) MRS. MERRILL’S everell 8 | National - P ~ (;ardner 8 Ogontz ) SCHOOL for GIRLS ? | Ossining 8 > H ~ Ou x i ) S 3 ORIENTA POINT 5 oe oe > | Wabanak Met k 9 Wa ! MAMARONECK, NEW YORK M M ) Wi W s ) \ —~ . ° Scoville School for Girls IAL SCHOOLS 2042 Fifth Ave. Acader Drama \ | NEW YORKCITY o Salen Studio of Fas Resident and Day go A m I Art Regular or M j 1 Spe al courses with “ gi’. \ langu oe fF ve, 2 ' ey al lif aca yr king ancl = We i r \ ~ } \ Out-door s Rosett lar Mrs. Helen M. Scoville Grace A.—P Princspal 4 , ( a B ea ~ & Miss Rosa B. Chisman S 4 Mis a. i ; ho per ¢ S Associate Prin , " Mn L ae Ges Singing g School at Vit U. S. Secretarial ) W is’, Mis < » ¢ j The HEWLETT SCHOOL for GIRLS

THE DEVERELL SCHOCL A French Boarding and Day School 7 East 74th Street New York City ae | from 9 rue de Chaillot, ! aah On the Aetatienn Hin

THE GARDNER SCHOOL FOR GIRLS € Reg M Dr (rt A t advantages of lelightf Riding Miss ELTINGE ‘and Miss MASLAND, Prins., {i E. 5ist St., N.Y.

MARYMOUNT.

High class school for young ladies. Conducted by the Religious of Sacred Heart of Mary Location unsurpassed 40 minutes from New York City Pre-Academic, Aca two years’ Col legiate courses. Music, Art, Elocution, Domestic Science Gy nasium, Riding. Skating, Tennis, Organi nase Games, Chaperon- age to Concerte, Art Galleries Museur W rite for Catalogue to The Nev. Mother TARR YTOWN-ON-HUDSON, NEW YORK

Mrs. Cooper Hartman's s School for Girls 7 West Mu \ P A City School with Country Advantages

THE SEMPLE FOR GIRLS Opposite Central Park Boardir : pey_t ry T’ re ar t s al and } g r S Outdoor a M A Lectures Mrs.T. Darrington Semple 241 Central Park West New York City

IN WRITING FOR ADVICE from the School Directory of Vogue, please be sure to state just how expensive a school you can afford, what part of the country you would pre- fer the school to be in, and what your plans are for your child’s future education. Which pre- paratory school we recommend depends largely on your replies to these questions. VOGUE SCHOOL SERVICE 19 WEST 44TH STREET NEW YORK New York 4 9. Suburban School for Miss C.E. Mason’s 335ureepscncol for TARRYTOWN-ON-HUDSON, N.Y. Gay 40 minutes from N. Y. City. I School for girls 13 to 25; ol for girls 7 to 13. All devartments including graduating and special courses. Vocational. Special urses in Art Music. Literature, Languages Certificate admits to leading colleges. Llus- trated catalog Miss C. E. Mason, LL.M., Lock Box 371

THE OUT-DOOR SCHOOL 746 MADISON AVENUE Kindergarten and Primary for children 5 to 10 years. Healthful out-door activities under the stimulus of select companionship coupled with individu- al attention and the advantages of private tutoring. Principal. ANNA E. CHAIRES,

pram York Ossining School for Girls Suburban to New York Preparatory, Vocational, Art, Mus and llome Making Courses. Gardening a! 4 Horticultura th Moderr a :o igs a te n-acre park Separate house for younger girls Ye Clara C. Fuller, Principal; Martha J. Naramore, y-—*- Principal: Box 107, Ossining-on-Hudson, N. y MISS BANGS and MISS WHITON *::%"!; The only Country School for Girls in New York City. Eanee, enough » be a “Real School,”’ small enough to be a “Real Home.”’ Cer tificated at the leading colleges. Out-of-door life on w ded scl

rk of 35 acres BOYS’ New Y ork

The Brown School of Tutoring ET FOUNDED 1906. Both sexes. Two years’ work in one. Study supervision. Pupils taught how to study. School with an Atmosphere of Work.” MASSEE COUNTRY SCHOOL Ind t pe aa preparat f rk ] miles 1 New Yorl New G and d r 4 Man 1 ! Ju Depa r boys s I sua su s rd Addres WwW. W. M P D., Box Br N. Y Indiana INTERLAKEN ci. **Where boys learn by onal SCHOOL Thorough instruction in sciences and languages. Pre pares for all universities. Academic work applied in practical agricultural and n iinical training Interlaken soins boys to live

same “tab es yom, dig with then anual work noons ace panes and read Address HEADMASTER, Box 112 LaPorte Co., Sedbons Chicago Representative, Kenwood 4375

Rolling Prairie

RIDGE ag Young Boys

Mrs. Witt1am Gotp Brinsm ‘Pennsy) Ivan! ‘a Swarthmore Preparatory Sc hool for Boys Pr E

( ege ar 1 lippe prepare | 3 for their chosen careers and to he Ip them decide their life work Re at t i 1 with study Moder t t ling Strong pa J Depart Sumr s Pa l A T LINSON Head I l Swa Pa Iii nois Morgan Park Preparatory Schools (Formerly Morgan Park Academy) spatesy. Strictly acaden 14 miles fror ( izo ys educated t igh | ks and st n”’ tours to ogee lrg lh me rlgua As meg - gy Ay et Bi Principal, Box 1 . Morgan Park il Cali fornia CLAREMONT SCHOOL FOR BOYS | As 1 of at N

ge m- "' 1 'y a *s it Calif 4 Cor i a x inge 1ins ga f I \ Catalog W. E. Ga Ph.D., H ( Cal MITTEE Pupils up to 10 years of FOR SMALL CHILDREN age accepted Montessori schoo! ele- BOY LAND mentary grades Normal training MRS. M. P. COOK Gymnasium and swimming Acting Principal Supervised play Santa Barbara, California Home atmosphere pacinseiiicinimmsiiemmgmmgnns re

VOGUE

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unger ha J N.Y ipa 1917 ugh Cer th St DRK one. January Pennsylvania Mary Lyon School New Residence Hall recent comt Definite college pre P arat n in an interest ng, attra tive way The very be trainir all the fine arts and individual = Ren Bg { nusual facilities for playtime—riding, swimming, cano g, aesthetic dar ing and all athiet ic game nas Ly n is a big ho Each girl rece idividual study and care Seven Gables, ‘ ur ho ume for little girls Write for illustrated catalogue H. M. CRIST, A. B., FRANCES L. CRIST, A. B., Prins. Box 1509, Swarthmore, Pa Miss Marshall’s School for Girls 20 minutes from Phila. College pre- Charming location, Domestic paratory and general courses. Music, Art, Science. Outdoor athletics. Campus, 4 acres. Catalog. Miss E. S. M. ARSHAL L, Oak Lane, Phila. Bryn Mawr School for Individual Development Day and Boarding School cology applied to ech defects, and nervous 2 iz ond ane edicine ee —- Corrective psy ee ss, pot area lance rir ALICE C. “'HINCKLEY, M. A., Director, Box 36, "ROSEMONT, PA. BISHOPTHORPE MANOR. A select school for girls New York and Philadelphia ( eKe epe V z courses Two years cultural course for high a she ool preg Indivic atte Swimming 0 Junior De t Craupe N. Wyant, Principal, Be Box 243, Sou ith Bethlehem, Pa DEVON MANOR A euburban scl | for girls, only 1 from Philadelphia. 5 buildings, 16 acres College pt paratory and jun college « rses, Social Service, Se« ences, Journalisn Kindergarten yship, Household Arts and S« raf ox] ly Box 3571, Devon, Pennsylvania Music, Art, Arts and Catalog Ogontz School ided 1850 \ school for girls occupying an estate on the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Illustrated booklet describing ~new building will be mailed on request. Miss Assy A Soren ann, Principal Montgomery Pa xi District of Columbia DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, Washingt (Suburbs nooldagey PARK SEMINARY F r the higher education of young w é *xtension courses of two year llegiate work above high ] x me - onomics, Flor ulte are Arts and Crafts, Music Art systemati ly of the National Capital Painting. Dr JAMES E AME NT A.M Ph.D “LL D President Box 173 Forest Glen, ¥ fd. Illustrated book on request to Registrar Colonial School for Girls Exceptional advantages for study in the —_ nal Capitol to those whose plan to study in Europe has been delayed College pe paratio x co ic woes Travel Sec tarial. Special Courses for Hig d Semir graduates Languages. Athletics. ¢ sialon MISS ( "t ARI OT TE ‘ RIT ‘ar —— EVERETT. Principal, 1539 Eighteenth St., Washington Virginia Warrenton Country School fi" .i)it" in the foothills of Virginia near Washir ston College Preparatory and special courses French, the languag f the house Teaches girls to study brings them ne atur d habit of order and economy ‘MLL LEA. M BOULIGNY VIRGINIA, Warrentor Box THE HOMESTEAD SCHOOL FOR GIRLS HOT SPRINGS, VinG rg 4 it-of-doors school or for sleeping i ass recitations Sw g. horse-back riding en! 1 d golf ine lud weekly 6 ] Tutoring and sr r i repara Inclu $ t 1es > term 400. ¢ , ila fr tl THE MISSES BUDDECKE Connecticut MISS HOWE AND MISS MAROT’S SCHOOL THOMPSON, CONNECTICUT 4 country boarding chool for gir College preparatior vd v ed academic and vocational cour H eba r d ng i = and winter pert Separate ttage f J r department ; let Mary Lou M rir l WABANAK I unique open air boarding and day school for girls and young dey ‘Mede rn buildings, excellent equipment. Number limite: 7 Mrs. CHARLES TARBELL DUDLEY, Greenwich, Connecticut WHY TALK OF SCHOOLS? N war time, the first reaction to mention of problems of peace- ful life is to bury them as quickly as possible. Yet it is precisely in times like these that such prob- lems—education, for example— are of great importance. For the boys and girls who are now quiet- ly at school are to be the men and women who will settle the prob- lems of war (or peace) in the near future. As a fact, therefore, the school for your boy or girl in the teens is fully as vital a matter today as the conduct of the war. To study these pages in search of just the right institution for your child is as really important as the study of the newspaper columns. Vogue has endeavored, in this department, to gather under one head all the reputable schools, and only those, in America. And if none of them featured here seems to fulfill your requirements, please write Vogue. Let us talk of schools! Vogue School Directory 19 West 44th Street New York Missouri WILLIAM WOODS—?.,:(.0 sot" Foune women Excellent Equipment, Mus ic, Art, Expression Domestic Science Gymnasium, Tennis Boating, Swimming, Hockey. JOS. A. SERENA, Pres. Gateway 21, Fulton, Mo. Massachusetts Miss Hall’s SCHOOL FOR GIRLS In the Berkshire Hills, on the Holmes Road to Lenox. Forty-five acres. One thou- sand feet above the sea level Miss MIRA H. HALL, Principal Pittsfield, Mass. Miss McClintock’s School for Girls Miss Mary Law McCuintock, Principal, 4 Arlington Str , Boston, Mas Massacht 40 minutes Loston.) HOUSE IN THE PINES ee ge Bos rs. Mus H 1 ! re rt rah rretarial Courses. health > at a ne Miss Gertrude ¢ gg Bg vec THE MISSES ALLEN SCHOOL Each girl’s pe 1 lity observed 1 devel ae Write for boakles West Newton, Mass VOGUE'S SCHOOL DIRECTORY | Mlustrated Ca talog. Illinois MONTICELLO SEMINARY Junior College for Young Women and Academy for Girls Suildings worth more than $500,00 S acre campus Outdoor athletics Entire equipment modern and up to date. Eightieth year opened Septen ber 20th, 1917. Cata logue Address - RINCIPAL, Box 205, Godfrey, Ill. Camps nee: ALOHA Camps for Girls So. Fairlee Fairlee, Vt., and Pike, N | ‘ths Hin t camps—ages, 7-1 13-17, 17-25. Fun. Frolic, Friendships FIRST AID AND RED CROSS WAR SERVICE TRAINING Swimming, canoeing, horseback ridin g tennis, basketball, baseball New t Field. Handcrafts Dr amatics Music Character devel mality and « lance for health > years of camp life 1200 girls have been in camp and not a single serious acci- Mr. and Mrs. Gulick’s personal supet Splendid equipment. tegular seas " July and August. 64-pave illustrated box let. All councilor positions filled. MRS. E. L. GULICK, 211 Addington Road, Brookiine, Mass. ‘SARGENT CAMPS for Gieke Dr. D. A. SARGENT, President Secretary, Cambridge, Mass. cultivator of y spirit Vig ROXBURY, VERMONT. 200 acres of wooded mountain-side of the Green Mountains. Privat flelds Clay tennis courts FOR GIRLS. Senior and Junior Camps and meadows in the very heart pond for water sports Athletic Camping trips. Daily horseback riding over mountain roads and trails. No charge for horses or instruction. Rustic sleeping bungalows. Assembly hall for dancing, —- and games round the big fireplace Screened dining porches Enthus lastic ounselors All counselor positions filled Illustrated booklet MR. & MRS. C. A. ROYS, 10 Bowdoin St., Cambridge, Mass SPECIAL SCHOOLS Dramatic Arts AMERICAN ACADEMY OF DRAMATIC ARTS | Frarklin H. Sargent, Pres. Vonnanneniint The Standard Institution of Dramatic Education for 34 years. Connected with Charles Frohman’s Empire heatre and Companies Detailed Catalog from the Secretary Room 251 Carnegie Hall, New York PERSONALITY BUILDING Correspondence Course Amend Robertson School of Cultural 85 West 12th Street New Arts York ¢ Secretarial Hiss Conklin’s Secretarial School Building Nineteenth Year Commercial Engineers’ 37 WEST 39th STREET “t- -i- NEW YORK THE UNITED STATES SECRETARIAL SCHOOL 42 Fifth Avenue (45th Street) New York The oldest nd pre-eminently the most successful institution of its kind in the country. Conducted by College Professors and ractical business men, pr epares st ad ate for Social, Pro- ssional and Commercial Secre s aries range from 100 te 2500 dé Sane. per annum Ne W Yor mip genet eactemee school for refined and ambitious student Fees moderate ill or write for catalog v, ind lists of successes Prof. J. F. Meagher, M. A. (Lond. Univ.), Director

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VOGUE’S SPECIAL SCHOOL DIRECTORY Art VOGUE Art ail Costume Designing — —_ COSTUME DESIGN DE LUXE Why Not Prepare in Art Now. q Creators and Executors of “Art in Dress.” Smart- N Y ‘ h | f Fi d A li d A 3-2? est of Fashion Designers, Resident and by Mail ee _« 00 0 ine an pp 1e rt AS Courses with the “Made in France” Way via Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. Term Begins January 2nd. Re ag ’ Practical and Professional Interior D tion, Cost Design, yee BROWN'S SALON STUDIO Reset Saaaee Weems Botton asd cher’ taken’ eckbetee / 597-599 Fifth Avenue, at 48th Street, New York City Circulars. S. F. BISSELL, Secretary, 2239 Broadway, NEW YORK ee eeneel Music COSTUME DESICN a THE-HOME - TUTORING - WAY ORIGINATED - BY-CARL-N.WERNT ret = 20 Illustrated Correspondence Lessons, $2 20.00 Everybody wit akes, wears 1 sig es eds this la ARTS Chicag CHICAGO ACADEMY OF FINE V. 8! East Madison Street THE Vepartment DRESSMAKING AND MILLINERY kane ae Da poy sie ‘ar waies ine McDOWELL * DRESSMAKING .ND MILLIBERY SCHOOLS Estab. 1876 Chartered under Regents 25 West 25th St., New York 09 So "State St., Chicag FOR DEFINITE PEOPLE The schools of this department are aimed directly at the woman who wants for her- self, or her child, an education in some definite profession or art. If you are, oz wish to be, a specialist, Vogue can satisfy you directly or by mail in this department. VOGUE’S SPECIAL SCHOOL DIRECTORY West 44th Street New York GRACE A. POVEY PIANIST and TEACHER Certified Joseffy Exponent 310 W. 95th STREET NEW YORK CITY MME. GERARD THIERS TEACHER of SINGING 805-806 Carnegie Hall Certified exponent of Be! Canto NEW YORK CITY Italian (Delle Sedie) Method Mme. CAROLL BADHAM PREYER Teacher cf Famous Opera and Concert Singers. artistic finishing for i Orat_ri From tone placing to Opera, Concert ar = ackward Child . Costume Design and Illustration wis C Authorized Exponent of Marchesi and ge Methods Tate s. fo 7 DA Studio, 27 West 67th Street *s yom on Mawr School for oateres Development. [rim cao Phone 1123 Columbus * New York o7 r i tive psychol g) applied t ack ward vess, speech defects, and an irritability. In keepi a alike! stest rese sd mp hology and meai 47 4 Heme acmosphere. Schocl subj-cts taught. Cons .!:atioa, Vocation ; bs . 4 . v I ILOFINg. Alice C. Hinckley,M.A | Box 36,Rosemont,Pa Backward Children AN The Fashion hes at ry, 608 Park hee at 65th St. N. Y. T HE ‘S AN A’ rT O R I U M ” sc HOOL Miss Woods’ School : . E ; ‘is ¢ , . if a ‘All spee h ps geese "1918-19 1 tor the re 1 1 training OF ren who, t rf Dancing res tons nov Referer Booklet » eetent . . 14 es f PI } : | — Claudia M. Redd, Prin., ined, Penn. M 1 W Drincine ewerner. . 2 ROSETTA O’NEILL Scientific Training for Chi Ic lren The TRAINING SCHOOL at VINELAND Classic —National— Folk T ’ T . vu Devoted to the interests of those whose ds have rot developed Interpretive _ -_ Reem D A N ( A I N ( J + ormally ych Pee Lat een for she peer s of the childre To M O’ Nei j r ; School op and Farm Classes. Small Cottage Groups STUDIO 766 Madison Avenue New York DCROTHY L. SEWARD, Vincland, N. J E. R. JOHNSTONE, Superintendent, Box 402, Vineland, N. J. a aeianie, f — ee ae Vy a SMARTEST NEW MODELS ' R| wie \ Y ie IE; sj Aeroplane 661 5TH AVE View of AT 52 ST Hote! Chamberlin * at - Old Point B U . 4 Comfort \ taken by d one of the All All 7 ‘ Royal Styl . : es |IBERTY RON ries | SY Fabrics Flying Mail Orders Filled. Send for Catalogue WI f hy Ou Corps, from 1120 CHESTNUT ST., PHILADELPHIA, PA. Y C a great Second Floor, next door to Keith's d1isaca tide ad Caproni Bi-plane. Wy EWE i S For STOUT WOMEN @ tec a hs , ——_9 events Hf Chamberlin, one of the famous Hotels of the entifically di continent, directly faces Hampton Roads, which is 5 sions ) red t] stant scene of every phase of marine activity. ~ fig u Just ; Hampton Roads, immediately in front of the rad it the d Vie Hotel, site of the New Naval Training Base and ge ew i \ 1at1o!l ‘ lOO have peel ove from individuals Langley Field, the Army Aviation Experiment Station, i h inére d 4 : ee =. e., . - . aiias — | : thousand stout or cdtates s but a miles from the Hotel, and will eventually be amen sad te the “Shi Place for Aviation in America. iaetare kno F 1} (; EN HOLE GOLF COURSE, « wned and ope rated thoroughly the DIAMONDS: PEARLS The ¢ iberl is just six minutes away by trolley The requirements of ay sicek chided Hain ' atid cubic ae he stout fig EMERALDS: RUBIES ccellent shape, has a dainty and attractive Clul t ‘ GOLF EVERY DAY IN THE YEAR is almost a Ap! Prices Very Moderate i SAPPHIRES atria lored \eroplane \lap ot the Course, the only Lo ‘ | other precnou » Stoned “ry | 1 saber made o ego ch mh a0 WER as our Bec a ao ) A GUL De t you, if you wish. If you can’t call, write to Dept, V3, New York ) | a is b address, for our latest style book ““MODES.”’ | GOLD - PLATINUM MEDICINAL —_ nig ner eat Lane Bryant, 21-23 W. 38th St., New York } , : / omplete in Ever etai DETROIT CHICAGO and SILVERWARE y be oe 255 Weodward Avenue 17 North State Street | i reatment, as given at European Spas, with the eer r - t - adv intages ot! Sé€a- A eezes and sea- bathing. er rticulars, booklets, etc., address, V Oo G U E | nd * = — will atte-d to all shopping. Its corps of expert shop- | i F. alee Mer. - Fortress Monroe, Virginia pers will save you time, trouble and expense. Address | vr } VOGUE SHOPPING SERVICE 19 West 44th Street New York City |

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Hall

ND le oO

January stiff upper lip. © Vanity Fair To Dispel Gloom Read VANITY FAIR Now, more than ever, there is need for what the English call “the cheero spirit.” Need for hiding a long face, for a full measure of pluck, and for great good humor.

Need for keeping a Vanity Fair deals with all the unusual aspects of the war; with its strange and curious phases, its brilliant flashes of genius, its indomitable art created between shell and shell, the music that rises from its trenches, the unquenchable humor of the men out in the mud, the outstanding figures of soldiers and statesmen at home. 4,ROM the beginning, England has made it a nation- al point of honour to see the cheerful side of the war, to the complete mystification of the apostles of kultur and hymnsters of hate. Punch’s nand- ling of the war is famous. Captain Bairnsfather’s cartoons have made The Bystander a household word in the British Empire. They have been read with delight in the trenches —and with horror in Berlin! /ANITY FAIR, of course, publishes serious arti- cles on serious phases of the war. It also treats as they deserve those incidents and accidents of war- time life which call for humorous appreciation or caus- tic comment. Punch has never jested about Gallipoli — but it has ridiculed notoriety seekers, scorched slackers with satire, and made sympathetic fun of Tommy’s minor tribulations. So,also,does Vanity Fair. Get the Cheero Spirit: Vanity Fair covers the war. But it also publishes news of every- thing entertaining and amusing in civil life. It is a sort of head- quarters for the mind—a front line trench in the affairs of the world —a listening post for news of the theatres, arts, sports, gai- eties and fashions—a special official communiqué, once a month, on the latest news of our artistic and social fronts. Not only should you have on your library table those publications which treat the most serious aspects of the war in the most serious way. But with them, you should also have Vanity Fair, which echoes the songs of the Sammies, the skirl of the pipers. and does its bit to maintain the cheero spirit at home. 9 j f Vanity Fair for $2 i ~ issues O a y Fal O Pe ten, if you mail the coupon now wx» * J AW” ~ now it better, you may have the next nine issues ra ¥ OSs for $2—and even ten, if you mail the coupon now. ff, Pas INS . a , . . . ° ‘2 yal v.& RS ? You think nothing—in your poor deluded way—of spending $2 for a fo YH Se ~» ~ s single theatre ticket, or two faded gardenias. Yet for that very $2 you at Nad errs ot may have ten months of Vanity Fair, and with it more entertainment o. eo oy oe” than you would get from a winter of problem plays, or a five-foot ww FESS shelf of novels. Pa Nw Sard s . + : ~ . . “ a ss ig P Attention! Eyes right! Salute the coupon! Tear it off, fill it POSSE 5 . ee . s Xx © out, and let Vanity Fair keep you—for ten months—in step Ys SHO . . \ with the times. BY CIWS _ ~ Py & & \ ys I

Page 14

VOGU

AND COPPER ANTIQUES. BIRN'S Ss ANTIQUE SHOP,

SATIN SLIPPERS, Beauty Culture NOMA NIGHT BLOOMING BALM R 31 i g WANTED—FAMILY PORTRAITS Artists and Art Objects THE SCANDINAVIAN ART SHOP GIBSON’S SKIN TONIC. it N her $s and A y Yu : i$ ao aw, oe MARY LEWIS WONDERFUL PREPARATIONS ar

“BUD” most distinctive garette mace Selected T I tobac mild fragrant blend. Dist e box of 100 $2 deliv. Bud Cigarette Co., Inc., 4 Rector St., N. ¥ Cleaning and Dyeing SCHWARZ a FORGER, CLEANERS e gow! properly cleaned Address 619. Fi th _~ ue a 50tl Street wr set ;* Phone look.

? , KNICKERBOCKER CLEANING & pv EIN co D: y Cleaning. We pay express or Parcel pos a LB vi dlp nceng om lle, iite " 6 Geanahes N.Y C. Main Office ork sist St., N.Y LEWANDOS CLEANERS and DYERS concerns which we Principal New York Shops 348 Madisou Avenue New York Cit onage of our readers 79 N rth. Pear! Street Alba tans | CLEANERS and DYERS —_" . . ’ , 33 Chestnut Street Philadelphia 19 West Forty-Fourth Street, New York New — B idgeport Waterbury Hartford Pr dence Newport Fall River Springfield Worcester i Upon sequent LEWANDOS CLEANERS and DYERS Fitchburg Salem Manchester Mass Lyt Lowell Cambridge Brookline Vortland Waltham Watertown Malde LEWANDOS CLEANERS and DYERS ° ° . Boston Shops Candies and Delicacies—Cont. 17 Temple Place 284 Ioylston Street 248 Huntingt Avenu SALTO NUTS—WONDERFULLY GOOD. Mixed ! kinds Send $1.50 for und box (check ey order ps). Made only by Ha He Corsets I the pos Herald Sq., N. ¥ Bool a “or MAPLE went —_ ~ a at MME. S. SCHWARTZ ade r anc its Cu made t for v t fa n Send $ 25 for box of assor ent 11 ae 47 Street, New York City Maple Grove Candies, St J sbury, V P eld Te e 1552 Murray H CARDANI'S + CREARS. Fa Ices, Daint GOSSAR nO FRONT LACED. CONSE TS fitted by Salads s an be rdered a all experience $2.50 ul i Cus Bre t Ma Office, Sixth Av brassiere ted rsets t rder ef rset t rd Stree el. Circle 205, 1571, 157 ri 179 Madison Avenue, at 34th Street, N. ¥ _ ANITA’ Ss — PRALINES REDFERN CORSET SHOP € riginal da Big box with Lag Ready-to-wear Redfern Corsets (back ace «and ppe $1.00 de neared San lie postpaid t t fit il i i experts $3.50 t $ Anita’s Prali Factor New Orleans, La B als Fit Avenue New York PUDDINE FOR DESSERT—D is, I g Pr SE Commons e Ue BELT CORSET for Hernia l t Ar & ad $8 Al late Models P grocer, and 5 you | sid | Price $8 50.$15 and ip. R ‘ Shop, 12-14 PF cong t following flavors. | EB 4Gth Street, N. Y. O iit D R Va eu ‘ am \ lla, Macar MME! CALDOR SALON DU CORSET Va a, Rex Maca n, Cl late Alt l The finest stays America ge, Spi Dept. V-Fruit Puddine Compar Mme Cal giv persona atter t patrons r Marviand Madison Av nr. 458 N.Y Mur. H 1270

40 NEW recipes ir engiiet howto make French Pastr BARCLEY ag hg CORSETS. Auction Bridge

bons, Marma ces, Sherbets, Gelee, Grog >» your indiv dual > Iced Pur ches Cc ampagne & Cordials sent requirements rr ip 0c. S. Moreau, Dept. V., Chattanooga, Tent Hi th Ave Var der! 480

FRESH “LOUISIANA” PECANS. Full meats. BARCLEY CUSTOM CORSETS

ne oe SARA CHIN STRAP i aria n Red s D

Right eating size. Delicious flavor } pounds Light weight models of batiste designed ; larger quantities 30 cents Ib Del’d anywher for motoring and the Sout! $ S. LaCour Plantation ¢ pany. LaCour, La 00-5th Ave Vanderbilt 480 ——— LE PAPILLON CORSET CO., Mme. Gardner, Mor Cor le t rd

SALON DE BEAUTE, }\ " , eX Baby's Things + DARSY—Salon de Jeunesse IN OLo VIRGINIA ate SPEER i7 East ri DOROTHEA de PATTERNS une apg gee se THE MILDRED SHOP | ' . NEVER: KICK. ouT « Children’s Things 45 West 53th Street. N.Y

Phor Circle, 4387-4388 THE “KIND OF CLOTHES YOU CANNOT BUY aa. L. coe dias al CORSETIERE the shops; gr « girls ! er he eetz rs¢ ( lebutantes In liv ae ity practic bil ty -&. 4 e 4 : back laced corsets and _ bra res "Harmon, 10 sali 47th Street, New York West 37th St.. New Yor Phone 4786 Greele HELEN SPEER—17 East 48 Stree New Yorl MME. BARCLAY - ~- MODART FRONT-LACE vites you to is her new and most os . Cor ” on ge inn , + Pl Fifth Avenue, New York Model on la My yy Ri, Tel. 4474 M. H (See Modart Display ad.) [EN SPEER—1I7 East 48th Street, New Yor CAMPBELL’S CORRECT, COMFORTABLE COR. rseries and Playrooms plant d, wated and SETS made to measure ! Personal attention ‘tely equipped, studying the astes of he given to each and ever tomer M I dual child é& prov ng the rrect environmer Campbell, 4 West Ss t. New Y re Corset Hospitals

gt stess ¢ tire Entert Ww ts Hand decorated 8 t | HELEN SPEER— Ii rk. | ALONSO’S CORSET HOSPITAL, 500 Fifth A lecorated toy ’ d’s Corsets eaned, repair r altered Day - es Exact r difled copies f yn ffo robes ane —_ Se ’ 7% rd r Mod CHILDREN'S HATS EXCLUSIVELY smart it dual stvle made ars We - ee Se eee, Se mean Costumes and Fancy Dress Broadway al rd Street, Upstairs.) Catalog TOTS TOGGERIE. 55 W. 45 St. Phone Bryant 2867 PAUL ARLINGTON, INC DAINTY G ARMENTS FOR SPANISH TRANSLATIONS— Beauty Culture THOSE WHO LOVE BOOKS WILLIAM AND WILLIAMINA } .. 8 lea EYEBROW AND LASH Candies and Delicacies POST'S BLACKHEAD PREMIERE CHOCOLATES BEST FACE TREATMENTS

fitters » Children of All Ages Costume art Se Exclus g and Gyr isiu Suit 4 ecialty designs t A. For sale rr harming Styles and Superior W anal “ 48th Street, New York. Tel. Br 9 _—o SUITS FOR BOYS f2t ear Styl sages > et eane \ J riod ade r Gas 1 1 ale leas f a Seale e materials Catalog r “tn fan ‘dress ball Br dear Costuming ¢ Suit ¢ 728 Market & P lelphia. Pa West 48th Street. New York Bryant 3440 MOTHERS desiring hand-made fr 4 at are ~ — — gg gl Dancing sive S Ss) Rock Island. Il

CHILDREN” S DRESSES AND SMOCKS maile t Iereta od ARTS (seu year). a go e war 4 conn” ae . n <a l , Ise i achers Nor ‘ Elizabeth, Box 184, Nyack, N. ¥ West 57th Stree v rh Cata - - CHICAGO'S Re tative Teacher William t *errir Dance Stage & tall

Chiropody al Risaes roomy m, B rT et & ¢ Dept. under Mme. Phasev Ac I Perrin Hall, Auditorium Bldg. Tel. Wabash 3297 CATHERINE CULBERT private lessor it sie

COGSWELL, Surgeor ( podist I . nt for bruises t r t Powder. Cog ( i $ & Ballroom well’s Sea Sl 1 iid na } la 4 hildren’s cls s re Rook! ert mat iring 5) h A “New Yor 16 East § © Ph ne Pla 6278 MASSAGE and MEDICAL GYMNASTICS giver CHALIF a ooNeee Se fe. Racal & i M4 nd el ire t their mes by masseus igh courses ert ‘ assic facial é a f 4 ede ; room, Dances for Teachers Amateurs, Childre 4 Mt aT e 3480 R 163-5 W. 57th St., N. ¥ Lou H Chalif, Prin MASSAGE. ° at pat ee een by N.Y.C. 1 t masseuse Moder s Spec zed physicia & patient expe 1erve Studi 100, West 57th St. ™ ee Mme. Alice, 241 W. 42nd St. Tel. 71 vant Te ne Circle 4026 = A SHOPPING TOUR OSCAR be A oe Through these pages will be fully as 47 West 72nd ) 557 West 182nd St factor as a day New Yorl Cit \ as rican authority ! ! node lar g

saw

Page 15

January 15 UE ia : — rien ineiieceeemeniis a -

Dancing—Cont. Furniture—Cont. Gowns Rensdeled—Cont. Hotels in New York VIVIENNE MONCURE, pupil famous teachersot Rus NEW YORK GALLERIES VICTORINE—Rebuilder of gowns. Old gowns | HOTEL MARTHA WASHINGTON, 29 East 20th sia, Italy, France. Private class lessons. Exhibition Grand Rapids Furniture Co.. Ine remodeled equal to new. Evening | Street, New York. For women Rooms $1.50 a dances for Balls; entertainments, Experienced teacher Plates of interesting interiors gratis on request gowns a specialty day upwards. Meals a la carte, also table d’hote of children. Vivienne Moncure, 97th St. & Central Pk W 4-36 West 32d Street New York City. | _160 West 84th Street, New York Luncheon, 40c. Dinner, 50« Booklet free CATHERINE ELLIOTT LULU MAY DANERSK—2 West 47th Street, New York We | WE Welcome Inquiries for making and remodel HOTEL MAJESTIC Fronting Central Park and All Modern Dances manufacture furniture and finish to harmonize | ing gowns in latest and advanced styles. Write for | West 72d St., N . Accessible to all lines of traffic prices e Instruction Only with things you have. “ae your rooms now. | descriptive booklet regarding time required, cost, | but away from “de noise of the all-night district 43 West 46th St., N. Y. Tel. Bryant 3556. _ Valuable new catalog No -11, Quick deliveries. | etc Mme. L. Brown, 677 Lexington Ave., N. Y. Rooms $2 day up. Copeland Townsend, Lessee, Dir THE TECHNIC of Classic Dancing for Children. | FOR TOWN & COUNTRY HOUSES at all times of | REMODELING DRESSES is not work one par- | THE TOURAINE—A quiet resident hotel. Two asi Prof., teachers. Class & individualinstruction. Pant year. Distinctive McHughwillow furniture, fabrics, | ticularly loves, yet the lovely results so often | and three room suites catering to exclusive families » mime. Mme. Anna McAuliffe & a und Makalif, The | wall papers & unique accessories forhome. Est. 1878. | obtained make it especially desirable to both seeking quietude. Write for Booklet B School of Classic Dancing, 261 V 126 8 St. Morn. 494 Joseph P. McHugh & Son, 9 W. 42d St., N. Y. | dressmaker and customer. 9 and 11 East 39th Street, New York City 1 VESTOFF- SEROVA aCGoL 26 East 46th St.. | YOU ARE OR INTEND refurnishing your home. | INSPECT YOUR WARDROBE and send me a! HOTEL WEBSTER, 40 W. 45th S!.. nr. Sth Ave i) Nature Dancing, Russian, Ballet, Interpre Mme, Naftal will purchase whatever furniture, | passé gown, I can please you both as to work | On city’s quietest street. Most beautiful « wN Y od, a Illus. Text Books on Nature or Russiat rugs, draperies, etc., et you wish to dispose of. | and price ustimates given. | small hotels. Favored by women traveling alone 4 Dancing. $5. per vol. Descriptive Cat. V on request Write or phone. 69 W. 45 St., N.Y. Tel. Bryant 670. Mine. Renee, 71 West 46th Street, N. Y. minutes’ walk, 40 Som 8; center shopping district - WRITE FOR THE PIECES you need giving as | AT THIS ADDRESS thousands of women have for | THE THE BROZTELL — 27th Street at 5th Avenue t many details as possible Pictures and description years had their dresses satisfactorily remade New York Hut f shopping wheel Parti Dress Accessories will be sent promptly. Mary Allen, Distinctive at great savings. Send for estimates. B. N cularly for ladies without escort. Every ro a 6=O—l(i Ww w es ay no »e Pe —— — — —___ ’ . : ” ge ggg ony Foxes (Dyed) Black, Taupé, or Poiret color $45 | CTORIA GOWNS AND BLOUSES is 18 in. high, with 24 in. spread, by if she uses this lock and key each. Mink at $4.00 per skin suitable for milli- | 373-5th Avenue at 35th Street, N and may be had in black and diary. It may be had in dark ery and trimmings Ermine at $2.50 per skin, | Frocks made-to-order for all occasions ‘tail or ; - blue or black, saffron with gold suitable for millinery and trimmings | ders given prompt attention. Tel. Murray Hill 7212 white and practically all evening line border. Price $5.75. See nN f the above skins will be sent on approval MARY GROTT OF THE WARDROBE shades. Price $10.00. See pur- purchasing instructions on page xpress charges prepaid If you require any skins | begs to announce the reopening of her dressmaking h . . P 14 and 14. matched, send sample. J. Boscowitz & Sons, 603 | shop at the old address, 24 E. 10th St., New York chasing instructions on page . >. — —_— p Fifth Avenue _New York City City The clothes are made-to-order exclusively - J.0.TEPPER, 12W.36St., nr.5 Av..N.Y.. requeststhe | MULDOON— —GOWNS THAT PLEASE ' a . pportunity of acquainting you with the advantage Distinctive gowns made to order to suit the woman Eudoctie, Trumne and Plaiting f buying exclusive Fur models direct from mfr Also f exacting taste. Latest models— Extremely Reasor Household lili iy — he wonders that can be worked with your old furs able. ‘‘Muldoon,’’ 150 West 57th Street, N Y. € as = -_ = HEMSTITCHING, fashionable ~_ ~ Trade “RELIABLE FURS” Mark PRINCET GRAHAM & LITTLE, 36 East 57th Stree Y ET covered, latest styles, Dry Cleaning, Fs Everything in furs, perfect fit, and right up to Creations Exclusive. Decorators—Furniture, Fabrics. Mirrors f laces, chiffons,etc. Feathers renovated Ma ailo ame - ate alterations, repairs Reasonable Prices Parisian models to order of Special Designs in Furniture—Gifts - Send for catalog. Sadieir, 38A W itt S. Christiansen, 124 East 57th St N. Y. Cits best quality materials, $55 Formerly 8 East 37th Street. EMBROIDERING, he age Beading ed HIRSCHFELD FUR CO... eee eee your AFTERNOON AND EVENING WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS. Ideal to order, newest effe emstitching fur coat, scarf or m if? into the latest styles as Special for the South trousseau gifts Made only on order Finest Pleating to order. Write Logue f hah on the editorial pages of this magazine 22 West 46th St. Elevator 3rd Floor materials used Illustrated booklet V sent on Bryan's, 444 S. 4th Ave Ky Most reas« nable prices. 35 West 44th St., New York ne a *rincet of Paris a> ae te request, Wilkinson Sisters, Ligonier, Ind eal FUR SALE—Great sacrifice on all latest. model G d W ° | WINDOW SHADES—Custom made to conferin to furs at exceptionally low rices Best } s window & interior appointments. Measurements & Exphogeud Agencies facilities for repairing an ' remodeling Owns an aist estimates on request. Exhibition salesrooms stint ta caesarean —e Paschkes Co., 1416 Broadway, Bryant 5202 — Ready-to-Wear | Ordinator Co., 101 Park Avenue, New York Cit MISS BRINKLEY, 507 fth Avenue, New York SILVER FOX SKINS sent on approval from the “WHITE” 46 West 46th St., N. Y. | ORDINATORS—Enable window shade rollers to or. Telephone Vanderbilt ; Housekeepers, OV animal’s back direct to yours You Gowns—Blouses—Hats - be lowered from top to admit fresh air and liglit ernesses, nurses and he maselic Id servants Houses save all the Furrier’s Profits. Alaska Authoritative Styles for every occasion. | For all windows in modern edifices opened & renovated under our personal supervisior Silver Fox Farn Plattsburg, N.Y Moderately Priced Ordinator Co., Architects Bldg., New York City RE MRS. EMILY E. MASON - ———— —Sss—<—<— BELLE, creator of the ECONOMY GOWN, ANDIRONS, FIRE TOOLS, Screens and ali other of London and New York For efficient servants Pr d the two-in-one dress. Original designs made for fixtures for open fireplaces, of Brass, Bronze male and female, call, write or t hone ames an Puzzles holesalers now on sale from maker to wearer and Hand- Wrought Iron. Frank H. Graf Mfg. S trvant 5633. 151 West 42nd Stree New York Moderate prices 289 Fifth Avenue, New York. Co Sth Street & Seventh Ave., New York. CE A NEW TEACHERS’ AGENCY ; eet te SHOP, Y. W. C. A. (Central !'AND EMBROIDERED CANTON CREPE and PURE ASBESTOS TABLE PROTECTORS. Anysize P under the auspices of Mrs Me H. MeNeill, former Lranch), 14 est 45th St Picture puzzles ex Linen Gowns. Also Gowns individually designed or shape of table perfectly protected. Detachable sani- teacher in private schools of w York and Wash hanged for 5 Oe also r sale Each puzzle steril for all occasions tary covering. Prices reasonable, quality excellent 1) ington. 542 Fifth Ave Vanderbi It_ 1896 ed. Call, write or telephone _ Vanderbilt 5763 Renfrew Wood, 67 W. 46th St., New York City. | Askforparticulars. Turner Asbestos Co., Exeter, N.H R MISS SHEA’S EMPLOYMENT roplies Ist 0 E a — - ——— —— | POLISHED PLATE GLASS TOPS ? 42d St The 42 p St Bidg., supplies st class ° With polished edges for dressers, buffets, tables - servants male and female all apacitic Gifts | ra Soldiers and Sailors Greeting and Place Cards desks. Write _ for estimates, catalogue. Geo. E : for city and cour tr) Ref carefully investigated Fox & Co., 35 W _Kinzie St., Chicago, U. S. A _ i? KEEP HIM FIT WITH A “COMFYKIT”. Thous- EASTER AND VALENTINE cards for Hand color- ———— aes ° ds now inusein Army & Navy. Contains 17 Stand- ing, dainty & refined—200 new subjects Send for Flesh Reduction 1 Articles. Price complete $5. At stores or direct por catalan: << Wineseet Pages’ Free. on t ‘fatetiien Nathan Nov. Mfg. Co. Dept. v," ~” 88 Reade St N.Y Little Art Shop, 1305 F St. N. W., Wash., I Cole _ I SUPERFLUOUS FLESH “REDUCED ~ by Moder a _ GREETING CARDS & Visiting Cards, made espe “COSTUME DESIGN DE LUXE.” Designers Scientific Electric Method r exercising cially for the smart folk, monogramed paper & wed made by the Correspondence and Resi required. Dr. R. Newman i ensed Physician, 28 Gowns Bought ding invitations. Samples on request. Crane En lent Courses in the ‘‘Paris Way’’ via ith Ave. (near 30th St.) N.Y. ¢ Mad. Sq. 5758 graving Co., 24 West Lombard St., Baltimore, Md. | Brown’s Salon Studio, 597-599 Fifth Ave., N.Y.C REDUCE aa a thou MME. NAFTAL pays highest cash value for fine 2 — — liet or medicine Ve} ectr ! fit r slightly used evening, street and dinner af and Mashentonl—4 frocks, furs, diamonds, Jewelry, silverware ‘Hair Goods and Hair Dressing Sutebe Decorators and Decorations Inspection invited 56 r 69 West 45th Street Ne York ryar 670 os FAT REDUCED: thermo electric 1 ‘ MME. FURMAN HAS $25, 000 TO SPEND — FRENCH HENNA D’OREAL, imported Powder | MRS. ALEX VAN R. BARNEWALL — manent results; Swedish gymnastics and Assage For slig ntly used or dis card ted tones sealp, giving faded or premature gray hair ly East 48th Street, New York City No diet; rheumatism benefited. Miss Frye, RB. N Street d Evening Gowns a marvelous, natural gloss and bright tint. $1.35 New Imported Fabrics 233 West 107th St., N Y C. Tel. Academy 1106 Dancing Fr cks, Furs, W rape ete Sent or applied. B. Paul, 34 W 37th St., N.Y. __—sS Murray Hill 3060 DIAMONDS, PEARLS ROBERT, Permanent Hair Wave Specialist. A. GEORGE ROETZEL, 500 Mad. Ave le Fil lewelry and Silverware No kinks, but a beautiful wave, well nigh a mar Antiques, English Furniture, et ‘Specis orists Art Objects, Antiques and Oil Paintings cel, my only specialty Write for booklet Screens & Decorative Paintings.’’ Over . 2 _ ae Highest prices guar: un teed Robert, 500 5th Av., Suite 506. Cor. 42d St., N.Y lunettes, etc., painted to order. Phone, Plaza 8961 MAX” ~SCHLING, 785 ~ Ave New York WRITE, PHONE, SEND — FURMAN SCHAEFFER—542 Fifth Ave. a et ny +y- INTERIORS ity Flo ywers and for every occasion elephone B 1376 Personal Attention—individual considera- shop exclusive and Best quality, tastily arranged at moderate prices 103 West § & tion in the art of Permanent Hair Waving inc ‘lividual ideas Write for price list Telephone Plaza 1241-2022 Block West of Ritz Carlton Hotel Murray Hill 5772 — 22 East 45th St., N. ¥ Mur. Hill 5240 . MAX SCHLING, Charter Member of International YOUR MISFIT or slightly used street & evening | E. FREDERICS, PERMANENT WAVE SPECIAL- | ELSIE DOHERR, Interior Decoration. 500 Fift c, Florist Telegraph Association Place your suits, wraps, ete can be sold at cash ST. Originator of the famous Frederics Method Avenue, New York Suggestions 4 order now and have flowers de red ir 1lue to Mme. Naftal Satisfactory servicetopatrons | results incomparable. (Call or write for informa- by mail Full Desc riptions of In two hours in New York or any other city tadistance. 69 W.45th St., N. Y. Tel. Brvant 670 tion. 665 Fifth Avenue, N New York. (At 53rd St.’ | teriors Materials purchased. W rite for particulars = BERNARD pays 50% more than others for get a SHALL THE APARTMENT or room by ia : ° discarded Summer or Winter business . { homey and restful? No charge for advising a ! Fruits suits, overcoats, Tuxedos, full dress, fur coats, trou Hair and Scalp Treatment est cost for doing. I know where to buy wisel 4 rs, also shoes, 452 7th Av., New York. Greel 2499 _ Mrs. Ada Gillam Munyon, 110 W. 34th St.. N. ¥ - H. HICKS & SON AMERICA’S GREATEST BUYERS of «discarded ENGLISH HENNA SHAMPOO Powder, tones | MANY BEAUTIFUL HOMES lack atmospher The Fruit Sho gowns, diamonds, paintings, ete., to supply our 3 | sealp, giving faded or graying hair a marvelous | I will arrange your furr -~ and give your home - 557 Fifth Avenue at 46th Street store We pay best prices in tewn gloss and bright tint, $1. Directions sent. Henna | the atmosphere of your ogre ; . Tel. 1762 Murray Hill New Yorl Annette’’ (Main Store), 2669 yadway, N. ¥. C Specialties Co., 505. Fifth Avenue, New York. | Mrs. Serrell, Studio 105 East 1 19th Street, N. ¥ BROADWAY FRUIT CO., 2554 B’way, N.Y. Fruits = SS — YOUR HAIR—is it not lifeless and falling after ISABEL COLEMAN'S : r Our original Red Riding Hood Jelly and Fruit G . R d d the Summer? Stimulation and nourishment Painted Waste-baskets — baskets sent anywhere in the country Jelly baskets owns emo ele of the scalp will correct this Consult | Designed from the antique porcelains of China $3.75 Fruit baskets according to size sooklet Waldever & Betts, 315 Sth Avenue, New York 402 Madison A Ave.. N. Y. ¢ Tel. Murray Hill 6¢ ais = - MY RE- BUILDING OF GOWNS IS THE TALK | LOSS OF HAIR from waving, dye, etc. Consult | IDEAS FOR DECORATION. Unusual cushions F, P of Ne York because I have made creations Mme. Fendick, 17 West 45th Street, New York lamp shades & other articles created to harmonize urniture ut of. gowns that seemed hopeless Homer, | Exponent Huntingford Hot Oil Scalp treatment with any interior. Let me give you suggestions for 11% West 37th St. New York, 5265 Greeley. | Consultations Free Bryant 920. | your summer home. Selma Loeb, 37 E. 28 St.. N_ LEAVENS’ FURNITURE. Simple, sraight line COME SEE ME at the new shop, or send an SCIENTIFIC CARE of the Hair and Scalp by | PETIT-POINT TAPESTRY—Made to order, also unfinished, stained, enameled. ornamented Il ld dress for estimate on making it into a Marianne F. Iby | authentic designs together with the proper lustrated Free. Confer with decorator r Wm new frock Prices reasonable Residential work only materials in correct colorings

a $ —ae oo. = Leavens & Co., Mfrs., Finishers, Boston | Mrs. Gordon, 910 Seventh Avenue, N. Y Phone 4139 Plaza 406 E. 57th St., N. Y. | Frothingham, 542 Fifth Ave., New York

Page 16

por Silverware and Gems Maids’ Uniforms Shopping Commissions—Cont.

iques. Levit, 127 Columbus Av. (ur.96) N.Y, on request; or the Vogue Shopping Service will buy FALS ah 4, — AY Ay ee any of these articles on receipt of your check and instruc- We izith Ss we Broad tions. Each inquiry should contain a stamped envelope. VOGUE SHOPPING SERVICE Ladies’ Tailors 19 West 44th St New York City

J. TUZZOLI, now at 27 W. 46 St., N.Y.,1 : a f $ t be du d at this ) . — . - eee ame end Pets Smocks f I gar s re! ! » 9 1 eee FABRICANT PEDIGREED Fox Terr and German P 2 WAR-TIME SAVING. Semi-made Smocks. $ I t a Ta r hogs, For Sa 1 I repe or chambray Stat r age f Tailored Suits—Riding Habits M Moff New Hamburg ‘ dre Bust measu for adults Sa 1 ‘5 West 46th S New Yor D ‘ N. ¥ guaranteed. The S i Engle d, New Je H. HURWITZ—49 W. 45 5S N. ¥ ( ator of HAND- DYED SMOCKS $7 In rose, blue, lem S fine f Par ila A ,) £ ] ‘ l 1 bt is. white - a ao stars For Photography and Photographers cme fl nesep Ng ngy I oaor eg eto t . & Biair Suits $ iy Brya Mrs r, 156 West 106th S ws OY TAILORED GOWNS REMODELED g PHOTOGRAPHER-OF-MEN t 2 ' experi¢ Tailored suits I M ronald . r $65 up. J. H. Comstock, 286 Fifth Avenu 576 Avenu Specialty Shops Ss Ne Yor I 158 M Squ ( i7t Street P B. Starr 1 Pp y Pp H. BROWN BROTHERS. 1 t I z SPORT SKIRTS. | ats wks & t ises. Attractive Sati ceduuseahie. Sieiaake Rugs Cleaned and Repaired remap thy losaagecin eS tea coca 9 gga corr Broadwas New York ‘ p. 366 Madison Av N. Y. Murray Hill 829¢ THE THOMAS J. STEWART COMPANY UNIQUE TUNIC DRESSES hand-embroid L d - Fort 4 Br Iway art §=wor velty designs and color scl aundering Rug i S g—Oriental Rug Re Ide o_o uth and all sports Ye Tuniqu g t ir 5 t ative experts; als Shoppe. 5 West “th Street New York (¢ TROUSSEAU LAUNDRY. 1 mdry f ASK jing ot t-of ‘ a ff : fine linens & laces; thoroug No cl . rie S t, Jersey Cit : Immaculate work Prices & ref is W Street, 504 West 126th Stre Sport Things lest 8) Eagle A x =. 4 N ‘ I e Riversid Visit the SPORTS” SuOF Unusual and Pre-A ; ‘ F d Sr s Su Sports Waistcoats Coat Linens Shoes ists Widen Gee Mindeiinasane me eienaet eal s » 606 6th floor, 500 5th Ave. (42d St.) N. Y. FILET TIRE monogra , SHOECRAFT SHOP, 27 W Sth Street. N. ¥ ADJUSTABLE Fancy Hat Bands. Wick fa i make t roy te s S wid AAAA D and $ s) bands and silk puggaree scarfs in a great r gifts Send leaflet , Se I g the f color combinations; fit any size hat; club colors r R Store, 402 Madis \ N Yor N } t Catalog V. 8S to order Wick Narrow Fabr ( P a la ROSA JOSEF. Importer PEDIFORME SHOE GRACE AND DISTINCTIVENESS art the chara i rint 2 Price . I deta teristics of irr Miglish Aviat ap of Kha | e Murray Hill 65 Wr i i r Jersey Clot! Salat cements tor tet Ea 5 s ‘ ) ~ New Y ( ur price $15 Your Inc 581-5th Ave N. ¥ TROUSSEAU outfi i SI a I [ E HAYES Ss Ne Y THE. SEORT ~ CLOTHES SHOP. 1630 Walnut 8 &art j ~ Belg Fra ‘ shoe ) ler Phila ason Shor Aug rusta, Ga., opp. Hotel B Bed la hand fs, monogram et f 1 Wr Air we specialize in n’s Sport Clothes f | M..1.1 W St. S t | ] self-1 asur t casion Riding togs fc rm women & ch UTILITY “GOODWEAR SWIMMING CAP ‘ . , . ~ P ‘ Diver & Tam of d uble - eversible es j Lingerie and Negligees Shopping Commissions Rieck, Maroon, White & Tan (All white lined Stern S alty ¢ Dist., 40 E. 22nd St., N. \ SILK UNDERWEAR AND NEGLIGEES MRS. H. GOODALE ABERNETHY SAVE THE FIGHTING MAN'S Woot! i r E 1s t refined Ha . M f ~ eaters we ‘ , 1 M I S ‘ vi t ‘ y unusual th Hy = rn ny W 7th S N. ¥ 4 Nt Ma ) I M Sq Rarbara Lee Sn ks, 41 West 6th St os NEGLIGEES THAT ARE DIFFERENT MRS. E F BASSETT { W 8s = Luxur G rs.” Scarfs, Bags. Weird I f , s P cnitting J Boudoir ¢ antag Stationery Sport H P E. 5 St.. N. ¥ é " - MAISON HELENE Ling I « MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLING FOR INFORMAL CORRESPONDENCE Na g ‘ i-macde by F I 4 \ g out-of 1 address atly printes 1 125 env es a Beau Ir sd Ss a N ‘ R r s Chaper r 0 sheets Ja LB 1 $1 Corre sty proval. Write for cat. 703 1 le. New O \ f r W 78th Street, N. ¥ Postpaid. Tiffany Press, Peru, I UNUSUAL LINGERIE, |} | 1 lace trir MRS. S. D. JOHNSON pee napa J wt ag ers f all nds for Gifts ming, 7 seaux of D t , f T i7 } Avenu ind Soci rr D I 70 Murray H 8 sa B ailed r D ENGAGEMENT RINGS— Diamonds, Pea Emer NURSES’ OUTFITTERS ASS'N MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopper s, Sa r und Ru s i 1 425 Fif Avenu Will shop with you or send anything on approva gs k $75.00 u Fort & Powe a S Ss Send f r bulleti: \ N. ¥ Successors ) Ral Dewey.) New York Services free 366 «Fi th Avenue New York DIAMONDS eourus AND SOLD FOR CASH ) : i ad Collars mS. CAROLINE PLOWS. Experience has taught t é i ( s and le Cults n hat cert 1s in erta ines I t Mfg ( I re i ( Al I will sh« "" r or with you No harg I Broadway, New Y B Bib Goods sent on approval 14 W. 92nd St NM. ¥ NURSES’ OUTFITTING ASS'N ELIZABETH C. La sae A personal acqua ° 1 I h Avenue ince with New rk's shops enables me t bu Jeu elry and Silvey ware Bought a 8 Str vith taste and discrimination Prompt serv ; ‘ New York Goods on approval 3 4 vent Ave New Yor CASH FOR BROKEN JEWELRY Old Gold MRS. GEORGETTE DUNBAR EVANS will k s W " ! é lia is Ni u touch with N s advanced mode W pla ur Est, 188 G s retu i if Mi liners shop for or with you ate Chaperoning Ret Ca 1 W St N. ¥ ces and booklet 438 W. 1lltth 8 ms wa 8 GERHARDT HATS. nen me eho THINGS I SEE.’ for F Exclusive and Distinctive Hats Fas Leiter with list of bar, gi ) East 4t Ss N. } for or with you, wholesale « ail Bookle oO Ritz-Carltor Ir Stephens, 334 Fifth Aven ue New York LANG, MILLINER i s g the new MRS. “EDWIN es DAVIS, 1 West 8 Fr lesig ve ; ! R W Su ew York, will do all kinds of shopping f 1 1 ailored StUILes r you. Services fre Specializing wa apers I 6th Street, Ne } Jus ff Sth A el ces, rugs and artistic furnishing SOMEWHERE IN NEW YORK- an be found just 1 . ne : wha 1 wa f ur Wi r Is i Lotion Pictures with or r you witheut charge. Eleanor Florer Nelson, 258 B’way, N. ¥ Te 260 Mor A MOTION PICTURE PORTRAIT Miss BLANCHE — formerly of A ama W g 1 g brea g picture of you f l with y Service free 4 hing As 1 4 : M x ire Studi sent ppr val eference requested 4 - +. 4 Brya 897 West th Str et. New York. Tel. 6522 Schu MRS. P. & HOWLAND. PURCHASING AGENT free f or h you accompa ig out Mourning Apparel patrons. References. Chapercs 2 West 157th Street Tel epho me Audul t ¥ . “THE SHOP OF BLACK.” Mourning Appa THE HARMONY GIFT SHOP, INC Over the top with the Victory f quality style nforms with socia eC - has an experienced shopper t Tank This is an exact replica Gowns, blouses, millinery s shop for or with you. No charge 1e steel monsters that have Prices mod. ler & ( 2643 Bway Ss > ne Van lerbilt 3353. 58 West 40th St.. N.Y charging the trenches and MULLEN SHAW aLAWCHE BOSTWICK & Mrs. sheneser » Seen yses in “No Man's Land.” I . a. mcpet ap PR ertong Specia Our cXpert service saves tin ~ , No jen wheels in th e un jer part \\ " Ss ‘ : ‘ “G a 2 ro . ‘7th St rect, XN y Ph a G 2 at give it a realistic, plunging mo- YOU CAN TRAVEL AT EASE CHICAGO BUYER will shop for you or with you tion It is of regulation battle roug f : ut charge in ¢ io or New Y gray, and I1 in loon The price s st ving t ee L. Warre 14 East Jackson Blvd complete with flag and guns, is S & Bu Guid Chicago Telephone Wabash 8000 $1.50 See purchasing instru MHS. A gee ‘PRINCE be i a 64 W. 97 S ns on this rt re ver. M e of shops w ave n pag Patterns “time, 2 uid tan I can alwa, find the be t Servi u PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE f is (HOME EFFICIENCY EXPERT . t } suarantee \ lady of s l od te, and ex +d. r Jeu lry and Silverware Bought Cont. s i rs * : siding in most fashionable distri tof N . M W Ss ‘ } West s rk Cit ffers her ser es the nstru JOHN DALEY PAYS CASH for Platinum, G W a se as to house decora S Pea Dia 4 Ar jues re re is a et. a Br t 1s »arfu ul W 2nd 8 New Yor M idress—Room 4 ”) Sth Av New Y SEND TO A. S. BORG t I r s al . 1 gold, | sily antiqu PURCHASING INSTRUCTIONS \ s t, New Y i f . or PAY HE names and addresses of the shops selling the ar- gh as $50.00 for old false teeth. any condition ticles pictured on these pages will be gladly furnished 4 r “ Old « s pia i 1

VYOGU

Swimming SWIMMING SCIENTIFICALLY TAUGHT in our three-tiled pools in water that is continua filtered and heated Learn the art of Divi: For further particulars send for Booklet \ THE DALTON eee SCHOOL the only school in the that taught swimming r “a 25 West 44th Street 108 310 Weat 59th Stree Tea Rooms

Add the flavor of suggestion to the cigarettes by having this silver cigarette box to keep them in It is a copy of one of the boxes of the Moyen Age and gives the final touch of distin« tion. The box is 8” long by 3! high, and is of Sheffield Plate lined with cedar Vogue will buy it for you The price is $10.00. See pane hasing instruc tions on this ps Tea Rooms—Cont. THE ee TEA ee my last wor re pti & lu cheor

2 W. 72nd § i GREENLEY TEA GARDEN. Post 1 at Ss I O} und I Lunche Supper and eservat Telephone 376 Toilet Preparations REDUCE SUMMER'S SUNBURN & Tan by using Hinze Ambrosia Carbolate ) per jar Endorsed t ysicians. On sale at B il ans & Lord & Tay Hinze Ambrosia l’rep. ¢ 69 E. 59th St _— 7 ROUGE GIMONET—The Standard Freach Cor pa Rouge and P ler gold f he aT All shades. P p Munter ¢ 51 East 9 Street, Ne York

Theatre Tickets THE GEST SEATS f )r all theatres and the opera a be 1 from us reiephone r wr Main Office, 1472 B’way at 42 St. Tel. 4080 Bryan THE WIDE VARIETY f goods advertised these pages is amazing Read the a incements Traveling Accessories TRUNKS and Travelling Lags Send for Beau tu lustrated cata gue Any article sent appr a Brodil’s Luggage Shop 15 F Ave N. Y. ¢ LIKLY LUGGAGE juaranteed Wardrobe Trunks, Traveling Bags, Su

for catalogue 311 Fifth Avenue New York ¢ THE STERLING QUALITY f these shops is at

Unusual Gifts RARE io FROM oo ORIENT Many New rica U 1 Attra ful Booklet “ * illus ati : almost 200 Nove es. free Bertha Ta zr. 20 We ths N. ¥ FASCINATING ‘SUGGESTIONS FOR GIFTS all Kir ur atalogu H. Pusey, 16 E. 48th Ss = 2 * \ at Hyannis, Mass., during a Bn doe lelp win th g the Wr Lox $1.50 bt git g Sur Dial $12.51 The Bird Box, West Chester Pa OLD (FASHIONED COUNTRY —— — pliqu beds nd able ers, Miss 8 s SI ] East 16th Street New Yy ( MIRRORS Made by Master Craftsmet W r Per 1 and Gift Mirror Catalogu M f the ‘‘Furst Line’ ‘Second t ‘ ’ Furs t Bros. & ¢ Baltimor Ma WEATHERVANES OF METAL for Rk a various styles and sizes Write for atal ge “‘A’’ showing many distinct 4 Nature Stud Ba e. M FROM THE — OF THE a SUN Wonderful Art « s ta i at eptionally lew a con" atalog ‘} » Ni Trading ¢ Direct Importers, f 25 t A N N 7 i + hand. m4 ise gina

dA Qu, B! S! $4 v¢ J ry } [4 Yorl

Page 17

16 Opera Bryan NENS

January 15

Weaving (Hand ) Cont. Lense Gifts Cont. Wholesale Gift Shops—Cont.

Wholesale Gift Shops— -Cont.

Wearing Apparel for Sale oe : R I +) S Real lace robe, Filet and Ver monly Natural Ostrich wt Painting “Golden Days . son T. Millar N j ) sé S30 Vi earing Appare! f r Sale

EY S35. Silver , ese . $35 —— embroidered gr taffet |! G r g ( vith silver lace—$ Pea k green b 4 : le f ns aded velvet, gold lace $¢ Wort 1 nt ndit ‘ ( A s—Perfect conditiot Size 4 New Yor N ‘ \ 1-D OR SALI R taf und tulle F' cent¢ ea ( é ri ne } siness experience nnecessaryv » j name and l : t peat N 5-¢ \ ssag Marcl st V should be received on or before Januar . t red s 1 : : . R sseuse ] BEA! I ft ( LY ) it~ Address cat Sa d Exchange Service, Vogue, >W N! SE iss¢ = for chil = 1 Fret s¢ ge, 1 ) rs Ne \ | & KU i I inter I X > ‘ ‘ a I ended. No. 349 Size 38-40. On appro . lo Answer These Messages : ¢ sf led . : - ier af i ee . S OCTI woman may earn monthly i: TA 9 ‘ ; Rey 1 t stamy r t pe, inseaied, and with the num be ( ie 1 ssage Ss P eporting in Ritalin Me Sank wy #4 z rner (I stat \ Ee se this in an outer ¢ nvelope and mail it to Vogue : r acvas k eres « ¥ \ n Beau .- ‘ pe elephone i tions must be through the mails. Post-cards n cept ? macs — a tea n sport $4 tlack ve et and c t S r t ult seach, aytona, i $ | r $ Send Vog 1 ‘ uit until the other woman writes to 1 St. Augustine tl Winter Inform: N p A er Fi iluable ot if sent ‘es society woman with If her le ss S ns gue your money order or certified check f nme a PRN! Pats Anewees treated enc sat We wy e sent to 1, and w keep ) No 35 ( GYING to yranes " ri eposit nt v str s se! 7 , robe Size ¢ ncluding t bs ' enit vat (Paisley shawl, Fox) $ 4 Never send any article to Vogue. The adve rtiser pays the expressage on articles REFINI Dy young Southern woman, edu ' t e insp ng pays the return expressage if tl loes not ite ul traveled, desires t act as ep Twos wns, one pale c (Gs x ~ ¥ ectntaninniniestea tata caasinaia and Satin, fur ind e1! : 1‘ , $4 One evening, pale | |)! UBLI k ter, good DSI t ibroide S Kings r \ - wee ffs s + oth p s¢ I ‘ ) \ Neve ( rf

Florence Nash beautiful, clever, whose wonderful acting in “Within the Law’’ made her famous, prefers Créme Nero a clear, soft

do Geraldine Farrar, Fremstad, Fornia, Tetrazzini, Hempel, Margaret Anglin, Flor- ence Reed, Billie Burke, Frances Starr, Frances White, Corinne Griffith, Margot Kelly, Mollie King, Anita Stewart, Peggy Wood and many others r 50c, $1.00 Nerol Skin Food $1.00, Ja 2.00. G t N y \ I «& " Fra Forrest D. Pullen, Maker 732 Nostrand Ave., Brooklyn, N. Y

_ : ANTED—For youth of sixteen, dinner Miscellaneous W: oat and trousers. Size 36 or 37 D Pinna or Brooks Brothers. Also tweed VALUABLE oil of H Family ste No. 361-1 by Giordano ‘ ) hands me old fasl d bedroom shogany fur e sets, ISH to buy—Navy blue winter suit s nd nine pieces, I W} Bustle style Must be in perfect

sins - a | «=. Professional Services

nior Will travel if and Refer 351-( desired es required given. No. Wearing Apparel for Sale—Cont. *RENCH teacher (Lady) ten years’ ex 8 PP f | ence, requests pupil. Rapid, easy and 1 l ethod Parisian Accent POR SALE Old Rose broadcloth child's ferms1 erate Home or pupil’s residence it—white satin lining. Size rs 0. 352-C H nd 3 le y of Cost ¢ - Sell $ No. 469-D [ AP) ture emer g RIPING Habit—breeches and coat, black — appr. ating care and ability.” Even, chees nd white worsted, worn twice Size 38 ful dispositior References exchanged Go 4 Cost Sacrifice $4 No. 471-D vhere N ( ARGE size [ARGE size, fla ADY ‘ ny yea 4 ‘ 1i1) ind irre muff oth a A th Skinner’s Satin, just remodeled Cnn “entir inageme ge yUSeS x ptional successful ir ne , nts $ Ni $72-D 5 ' D. vith the est creden hes s 1 = positi New Y N ( M AN’S Gunther overcoat, Northern Mus} rat Otter collar roadcl 38.40 Wi orn few times Otee j Sell $1. only N 474-D line Size Wanted

including wardrobes N $73-D pis Will pay $10 to $12.

MAUS FACE POWTER

Page 18

What has he said to her? Does your glowing face cause an exclamation of pleasure? Brilliant lights revealing every grace eyes fixed upon you ready to ad every flaw ; and mire—can you face them unembarrassed ? Don’t spoil your evening wondering your complexion. your friends radiant and blooming about Descend the stairs to meet thrilled by the knowledge that you are looking your best You can have this confidence You can make your skin what you Nature does her part. You can do Every day the old skin dies What this new skin is depends on the care the rest. and new skin forms in its place. you give it. Skin specialists say that the best way to build up a clear, beautiful com piexion, to keep the skin in a healthy active condition, is by proper cleansing and stimulating treatments with a soap carefully prepared to suit the nature skin. of Wiii the Woodbury’s Facial Soap was prepared by a skin specialist after 30 years of experience with the skin and its needs. Begin tonight to get the benefits of this skin specialist’s soap for your skin. Let this treatment give you the charm of a flawless skin Use this Woodbury treatment every night ind watch your skin lose every flaw; watch it take on a smooth texture, a soft glowing color. Lather your washcloth well with Wood bury’s Facial Soap and warm water. Apply it to your face and distribute the lather thoroughly. With the tips of your fingers work this cleansing antiseptic lather into your skin, always using an up- ward and outward motion. Rinse with yt warm water, then with cold—the colder the better. If possible, finish by rubbing your face for a few minutes with a piece of ice. Always be careful to dry your skin well. A 25 cent cake of Woodbury’s Facial Soap is sufficient for a month of this treatment. Geta cake today. It is for sale at druggists and toilet counters everywhere in the United States and Canada. Watch your skin gradually improve so you can face the most glaring light, the most critical eyes — confident of its smoothness and freshness. 5e brings you a week’s treatment For 5c we will send you a sample cake of Woodbury’s Facial Soap large enough to last a week, or for 12¢ we will send you samples of Woodbury's Facial Cream and Powder. Address The Andrew Spring Grove Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio. Facial Soap, Woodbury’s Write today. Jergens Co., 140] If you live in Canada, address The {ndrew Jergens Co., Ltd., 1401 Sherbrooke Street, Perth, Ontario. For sale wherever toilet goods are sold VOGUE Co Ho Th. Son Wi Ger Mi The

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‘he Ie OcipsduT7proite THE SOUTHERN VEN if this were not our regular South- ern and Motor Number, when we dis- cuss motor cars and motoring from every angle, we would take this opportunity to tell you about some very serious motoring that some New York women are doing nowadays. Per- haps you have already heard of the National League for Women’s Service, but few people really know how purposeful and serious is the work which this organization does. Vogue has interviewed the head of the Motor Division of this League and has found out from her just what these efficient-looking khaki-clad women one sees driving motor cars about New York are doing. You will find full details of this work in the article, “A Motor Corps That Is Manned by Women,” which begins on page 44 in this issue. WARTIME ECONOMY Nowadays, when our sense of patriotism tells us to economize on every simple thing the government needs, we are confronted by the problem of how to get the last mile out of the last gallon of gasolene for gasolene is one of VOL. 51. NO. 2 Cover Design by Helen Dryden Special Features How Many Cars Make A Happy Famil 19-20 The Economy and Efficiency of the New Cars 21-24 Mobilizing the Motor in Wartin - 25 Cars Which Are Special Built for 7 Owner: 20 A Motor Corps That Is Manned by Wome 44 Costumes How New York Keeps the son The “Mise En Scéne” Is Patm Beacl 30-31 Some Suits Are Combining Two Material 32 Winter Whims That Warm the Heart of Paris 33-38 Geraldine Farrar in Her New Gowns from Henri Bendel - - - - - - - = = = 309-41 Miscellaneous Fashions The Advance Guard of Spring Millinery 28-29 Save Wool and Serve the Soldier j8 A Wardrobe for the Woman War Worker 49 and the things the government would have us econ- omize—and how to get the most efficient ser- vice out of our motors. We have gone into this question of motor efficiency in the article, “How Many Cars Make a Happy Family?” on page 19 of this issue. The article will amuse you, but beneath the apparent frivolity of it, you will find a great many truths,— truths that may be the solution of the attendant problems of adjusting your household to the wartime scheme of things. Many people who are making every possible effort to release their men servants for govern- ment service, are at loss when it comes to giv- ing up their chauffeurs. When you stop to consider it, there are many times when you could drive your own car, and using a chauf- feur on those occasions is merely a matter of habit. And we are giving up a great many of our unnecessary habits now,—that is how we are practising wartime economy. So we are showing you, on page 25 in this issue, some cars, which are thoroughly practical and which anyone should be able to drive, whether they have any particular mechanical ability or not. Now that the women of this country, as well Copyright, 1918, by The Vogue Company. Registered in the U. S. Patent Office. of ¢very month, by The Vogue Company, 19 West ath Street, New York; Condé Nast, President; Barrett Andrews, Vice-President; W. E. Beckerle, Treasurer; Edna Woolman Chase, Editor; Heyworth Campbell, Art Director Manuscripts must be accompanied by postage for their return if unavailable Vogue assumes no respon- sibility for unsolicited contributions except to accord them courteous attention and ordinary care. Vogue does not accept or pay duty on drawings submitted by foreign artists, unless the drawings aré sent at the order of Vogue or by arrangement with its New York office. Subscriptions for the United States, Mexico, Cuba, Porto Rico, Hawaii, and the Philippines, $5 a year in advance. Single copies, 25 cents. Subscription price for Canada, $6.25 a year; for other countries, subscription prices will be furnished on request. Remit by cheque, draft, or postal or express money order. Other remit- tances at sender’s ris Change of address.—The address of subscribers can be changed as often as desired. In ordering a change, please give both the new address and the name and address exactly as it appeared on the wrapper of the last copy received. Three weeks’ notice is required \ JQGUE is published on the first and the fifteenth either for changing an address or for starting a new subscription. Entered as second-class matter February 16, 1910, at the Post Office at New York, N. Y., under the act of March 3, 1879. Cable Address: Vonork. MOTOR NUMBER

of VOGUE as the ten thousand who are driving ambu- lances and working in canteens in France, have organized themselves for serious war ser- vice, we are interested in suitable costumes for this sort of work. The women of England have, after putting them to the test of real service, evolved some practical service clothes that are worn by them in every phase of the war work they are doing. You will find sketches and descriptions of these on page 49. THE Beauty SIDE oF THINGS Don’t think we have neglected the ‘‘beauiy side” of things in this issue; there has been plenty of space to give to some very attractive things that you will like. There are several pages of lovely photographs of Geraldine Far- rar wearing Bendel gowns; and then, of course, there are costumes from Paris—particularly some good designs of blouses and evening gowns. We have saved these to tell you about last; they are like the sugar in the bottom of the cup, or rather, like the sugar in the bot- tom of the cup before we were so careful that there would be none. WHOLE NO. 1087 Seen in the She ps - - - = = = = 52 Smart Fashions for Limited Income - - 53 The Younger Generatio - 7. ff £- 54 Vogue Pattern Servuwe - - - - « «= = «= 55-50 Sc ciety Mrs. Arthur Iseli Mrs. Arthur Society “ef © © ee es es &© «= @ - - 06

The Fine Arts Seen on the Stage - - = = = = = = = 45-46 Makers of Music - - --- 17 Mit~@ «© © w= «= «= = < * « - - - 68-70 Regular Departments Editorial — Laughter, —the Reacti f Ad- versity - - - --- 1? Beginning the Year with New Liner - - = 50-51 What They Read - - - - - - - = = 60-64 On Her Dressinge-table - - - - - - = = 6s For the Hostess - - - - - - - = - = 84-86

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MRS. ARTHUR ISELIN AND HER FOUR CHILDREN qugnter, De rotny The second girl rthur Iseli © Mrs. Iselin ! Jolonel William Jay, who was for ork life. He was the va head i the most prom- lin inherited Bedford re one Iselin as a noted whip horse In spite hudren, f of Ame TICa

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JAN 14 1318 the import ance that car, Sally knew goes with the words “my and Wa 1isO Wise enough to see the advantages of a runabout (Apperson model) with a long wheel-base and with plenty of room for friends im front and packa behind HOW MANY HARRING|1 said to have a lov ture, which is a very ferent thing from merely being good-natured. Of course, that word, with all that it implies, is really an excellent descrip- ON is r tion of her, but she many able abb after her name in the Newest lestament, the Social Regis- ter, and so good a co K, that she escapes the adjective. Her be banal, but her Her phi sophy may} spe ech may chef isn’t ) i fés, but her menu never does Lions roar like sucking doves ver her entrées, though they may yawn like furnaces over her platit ides. She has lots of pretty things, including a dé- butante daughter, and lots of expensive ones, including a sophomore son. She rides her hobbies t death, but she is 1 con de it¢ he er- ants. The last time I ted her ] was firmly mounted ipon a high tepper lich she called ter She exhibited a touching faith in a cardboard fe known as a motor-chart, which she con -d infallible for making the two car ymewhat old- fashioned household d \ of a whole garage-full. As I had often urged the necessity it mot 1r-preparedness, I was invited into her mid-Rutherford B. Hayes boudoir the first thing on Monday morning, to be “Of course, Katharine,” vegan, “this morning is not a real test the chart is at its best when I have a houseful of guests However, Mother wants to be taken to the sta- because p rougnam—sSie Mrs. Harrington gave up all belief in the independence 4 at [ depe? de > were curtain A Study in Auto-suggestion Shows That When Two Cars Are Called upon to Take will be Five People in Five Different Directions for two All at Once, the Result Is Motor Mania Varmon spe- friends envious tion, and the new kitchen-maid has to be met, and the hampers from Charles’s must be brought up, and Sally wants to go to the Bagby —dear child, she is so musical. “The man who hath no music in his soul’ is fit for all sorts of dreadful things which I can’t quite remember.” Mrs. Harrington was brought up to believe that woman might live by Bartlett’s Familiar Quota- tions alone, even if not very familiar with them. d upon it as some u to protect the chauffeur in CARS MAKE A HAPPY FAMILYpP “Richard took the touring- car this morning,” she con- tinued. (Richard is Mr. Har- rington.) “However, Carson back about ten and then he can take us to town. Now you will see how prac- tical this chart is, and how little motors can be made to throw their beams, as dear Shakespeare—or was it Milton?—said so beautifully. “Carson can go first to the station and fetch the new kitchen-maid. And that re- minds me, something from the village must meet the ten-four to bring out her trunk and the hampers from Charles’s. You see, Katharine, I just put ‘Carson—maid—ten-four—’ in these spaces, and there it is. Isn’t it simple? ‘The tele- phone, Marie? Mr. Harring- ton? Of course, I’ll speak to him. TROUBLE WITH THE SYSTEM “Yes, dear. All the morning? Carson won't be back? Certainly, if you want him. Why, not at all, it’s your car. Thank you, dear. What a pretty compliment. Goodbye. “I’m afraid we must change our plans a little Marie, please call up Willis again and say that he must meet the ten-four with something that will take the maid and her trunk and the ham- pers all together. Now, Katharine, I must take out the ‘Carson—maid—ten-four,’ but you see the idea. What is it, Marie? Willis can’t meet the ten-four? Then try James. These village people are impossible. ‘They seem to think that they run their livery stables for of women when she acquired a Peerless ecight-cylinder men depend on a husband. bad weather and t And it was such a comfort hat on neeadnt sympathize

Page 22

I asked him to take a maid and her trunk and _ two hampers in the town car, but I think he really must bring the maid. Cook was so emphatic. And civilized man cannot live. without cooks, though he may live without—what is the j that most amusing tion, Katharine? “Now, let me VOGUE is going to have such a disrupting effect upon families, to say nothing of patriotism and morale and all the things that one reads of in th papers, it would be better to return to horses Some one must set the example. As I tell Richard, it is better first to take the beam out of our own eye, and then we can see clearl) to take the motor out of our neighbor’s eye, s to speak. “But, e ! Wasn’t it dear Charles mb who said that? Well, it is the confusion the names, then. I thought for the momer was. I think I can put down that Brown ther eighteen, ¢ bring the maid out if she wait for him take the train our muttons, 1: 1 drive m to the eleven- Certainly, o1 own car 1s much I don’t Hf,

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January A Moline-Knight model “L” 4o horse-power touring sedan. Th ustly famed Hudson chassis assures long service to this Super Six car for town use The very sightly body, The open sides of this car make it ideal for a five-passenger by Bidd and Smart, 1s upholstered in beige broadcloth tour, and for town use the sides can be enclosed in glass THE ECONOMY and EFFICIENCY of the NEW CARS “HE New York \ut ymo- Designers This Year Have Concentrated on filling of individual orders. s alway War is having its effect bile Shov been the great prelimi- upon the manufacture of auto- nary fashion exhibition f : wena aes, , mobiles. No one is certain forthcoming motor styles. The Increasing the Efficiency and Adaptability of whether the prevailing models, effect of the r. however. is is 7 is exhibited, can be continued to minimize the importance of in the quantities planned. The radical changes in body de- . a 7 conditions confronting England son, hia eee t k Cars and Decreasing the Amount of Gasolene Used ase baleen Gh, set whe “i> useless luxury; economy and perts aver that gasolene will efficiency f operation have never reach the prohibitive taken their proper place as the price of one dollar and twenty- most desirable attribute Im ern cars. To be five cents a gallon or that the use of passen- sure ft comfort upholstery is more than ger cars for pleasure will be tabooed here, we ever a feature of the leading cars, but this con- do know that the government is planning to tributes quite as much to efficiency as to luxury take over a large proportion of the producing We will see few changes, therefore, in the new ability of many automobile plants and to requi- models exhibited this yeat Distinctive bod sition large supplies of motor fuel. The result designs are in evidence everywhere, but these has been that many motorists who have always are an outgrowth of the « usive custom-made considered two or three cars necessary are now creations of the early autumn. Manufacturers planning to use but one. ‘This has created a have been studying the wants of each particu- demand for several types of convertible bodies lar clientele by observing the taste exhibited in which can be changed from runabouts to the specially made bodies, and have been adapting “chummy” type of roadster or touring-car at l their newer designs to the trend thus es tab- a moment’s notice. ‘This flexibility gives the lished. This, in itself, makes for efficiency, for owner both the advantages of the more intimate the production of a standard body design in This four-passenger ecight-cylinder Scripps- runabout and the sociable touring-car. In like quantity is always more economical than the Booth has a good arrangement of four doors manner the sedan, with permanent roof and re- RIE oe peapetr This six -cylin- der Oldsmobile Columbia Six for mensel coupé is an all- smart; t Ca season model; line } ton the side pillars are removable Herbert Kellar Singer town cars are easily distinguished because of the pointed A Chalmers ts suitable both for town use and, with the glass radiator. This model, which is in a light shade of grey, has the ides open, for touring. The Bedford cloth upholstery, the silk 7 } characteristic greyhound simplicity and grace of line curtains, and the reading lamp are additional attractions

Page 24

i 00M: sti he IIH Gt OMA AB PE AEs 2g OSEAN AAT AAT > - > PAOOOGC LALA LATTE Lae PRINT ST - Eee * oN gaD aon Aa as BV A a ded vehicle, or when set and treatment, will EFFICIENCY THE NEW KEY-NOTE > consumpt! he favourites. ° vat the call will s of which g: above twenty or ical vehicles they n ; | four-pe which can Dé raise: A Stearns four-cylinder limousine will accomme sengers; the model illustrated has a dome light, : , @ vanu box, and other attractions for

Page 25

ee ARRAY MEAMNAT yO eee LAA AALS RL TE Lo TL TT SLUNTIOUNESRARRAR I ANN SSRARRARENNCN -s, but its most original feature Willys-Knight touring victorias are characterized b greater privacy, may be inserted comfortable in tl ( f Avenue or on the Boston line ven passengers can be the car remain entirely open may be equally fth appy on places a heavy lap- sonnet and radiator on a S ting in the conserv of the country nly for utilitz me hanica j save the Dureter inner that, olene be thoroughly automatically surface, which snes : —— secon¢ i tor shutters wl This five-passeng g air inz cylin short perature, fa hand c are trving t ineffe notorists. > driving chanical dev ic es. drive his car with anding of fuel-saving nditions are such that we ical impr its in the styles r than for changes in car and mile count” will be the motor- ; ee Ided to that will be “make The Dorris do its work.” The motorist body and

Page 26

MEDAL ily,

Vee

€ Ww ] < el ] ette [ ) € ntent Ww 4 iil speeds | A “ricl 1 | } toa ur j t th j I 1 ¢ tu e } j 1 1 l, eng j gasoiene The be et gine r I re Var

ru ¥ ry r ¢ r ( < € \ ES re ‘ t be rent or , e condi e C - I g ene be re € ered al - On the « which g av proport a cold motor ild, there r as T 5 ( eT

mp r r mor the sort of thing 7 €ason in wn sho SAE AAA AAA IAN ’ EL ; HnAMLHLAALAdU) pag TH Mie, ’ aT Both conservative and ; ( , “ striking is this Doble- wegpentt , Detroit steam automobile; J ? it uses only kerosene fue. radiator. In lieu of heat, then, raw gasolene must be apple rectly to the cylinders or d of the engine. S¢ | re provided with a “primer’

eans of which the fuel 1s A f VM VW Si atu? he Moore Mu Exhaust forced into the cylinders, while . that the Lexingtor gl in handle a twent thers are equipped with priming , rdimary engi A an re and str cocks through which the gasolene may be squirted. It would seem rather a para- Pr vel e per ¢ I gaso- tl most eco! mica Ca | € f x er care W ation ¢ ned by throwir va e engl n cold day Th a couple of gallons apparently good oil in el f starter not only drain the reservoir of the engine every five hu KS 1 gasolene thr ly lred r one tl isand mile This is not a fal- gine g as the operat i nti i icy, however, but a fact ‘ r thod of Ir n of heat to the engine PASSENGER OR PLEASURE! can prove that If use of Cars y necessity and by the sort of careful driving which tends to con serve fuel, our legislators and others who have been threat- ening the automobile industry and the automobile-using pub- lic with radical restrictions will » the modern motor vehicle in t of a “passenger car,” in the daily lives of ni of our people, and not as a “pleasure car” catering only to the luxury and whim of those who care nothing for the neces- sities of wartime conservation. We have so often been reproached as a nation for being extravagant that we should seize the oppor- tunity which now presents itself to reiute 1e charge; and there is no

2 i line of iture where a little thought will produce more satis- 4 Hal car with wire wi and that long line at the back ts a factory results than in motor 1? f tf 7s oP could / driving

ro rs are tremendous The Winton Six French town car represents a stand- ir without Ring ard of quiet and luxurious comfort This model 1s / VOGUE

is not a practical system if a non- freezing solution is kept in the wars

Page 27

st

Ja nuary

rg

i? / f / fj r wl , / Of the smar jtor . Y - i ny * / MOBILIZING THE MOTOR

THAT IT MAY HELP US SAVE > . AND SERVE IN WARTIME 4 ] f P e 7] é criTt UT 42s mm ii r} s ugham 1 y N+ hawal 4 ¢ leal shoppu car wv 1 r j a j ’ f ‘ f Y ‘ j 44 4 4cf r - P f ] an / y > Ye by en — si . ty = } - — roon rr numerou t \ '\ ee - 1 oF r a? Packa which 7 ma = Hi j

ish to carr / ? tri 4 4 i é Fs ee —_ (é " “ tl rtu ; SS wa hee tourn -( ? 1 \ i a r / 0? ) ar’ n —~— Sn ” T/ Dod Brother day ha the 7 Uv 7Ch-117 which accommo- ‘J —— dates more than two persons 1s D ~2z 9 \s an unselfish sort of car; this oe -% . one, built on an even more

— > roon plar tna last year s ’ model, may be used to give : pF one’s friends many a lift; Bris- roadster NY é Dp ger club

Electricall» partici ail relatives army;

Though this is a very ered car, the driz ing mechant is so simple that it is splen- didl adapted for the use of the woman with no chauffeur; the Owen Magnetic 4-passen- ger roadster is constructed on Straighter ine than those of last year driven cars aré adapted for the woman whose male are somewhere in the Milburn Electric TSE tear. Seas | sf i 4 ad } /

In communities in which elec- tricity 1s generated by water power, the ele ctru vehicle may be used with no guilty feeling of waste of fuel; Anderson Electric 5-passenger brougham, f M o¢

This sedan, made on horizontal lines, 1s useful fo patriotic men or women Who ae dispense with the services of a@ chauffeur during wartime; Hupmobile sedan

Page 28

VOGUE THESE CARS ABOUT THE SMARTEST ne TOWN HAVE BEEN CARS HAVE BOD- EXPRESSLY BUILT Se te IES DESIGNED TO ORDER BY FIRMS TO MEET CERTAIN SPECIAL NEEDS OF IN THIS WORK THEIR OWNERS

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UT EN ck digi eee ane ee i MH 4 § January 15 HOW NEW Whatever Nhe opera hé “v gown of black ned fl tl aun Ricl - the habit of the ever he happened tne iate rate situation, al- juip Of some sort. with him on one upon the fact, of fortune said far too serious it.” This, in a inking woman to- n; she simply will Far more likely is ber wool, and so conserve the more serviceable material f the fighting mer It probable, if her he will include re t e i i id to our own can- 1 at the var charitable enter- be re | terest in the maintained and th ; ces ( ed THE ATTRACTIONS OF . HERO LAND ~ we \ ig ‘d The social activities of Z the season are dance irrange 1 the local chapter "it I the all cha tie x} without number. Every- j } body went to H Land { and as many as | Vr 1 ? W. Krech, a rria of her fk) Oliver Burr Jan 2s. YORK KEEPS THE Present , other night, wore the Occasion That Society Forth, the Thoughts of Those with the Men Are Mrs Calls at War Oliver Peru mart women in the opera audi °. ) , , bright- éncé Who were gowned in bl Ack mat , / was oné Of tite pi her velvet and wore ¢ oifures bare fan of ornament led the four floors of the Grand Central daughter fume all of ray Palace to see the spectacle on the opening night. Probably the most picturesque feature of the bazaar was the Streets of Bagdad, arranged by Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney. One had access to them by a built-in staircase, draped in black and white and flanked by two extremely deco- rative but highly irate parrots, who made no of their distaste for the entire affair. On side of the staircase, niches illumined by glass windows served as resting-places posed Orientals and for brilliant secret either tained for gracefully Y Ant) ;) YS * 3 Mrs. Perr Belmont woré an @la } ora t Z dull tissue at the opera Lown of Miss velvet and osprey hat nth a sable cape made notable concert lately , form f , Ga ¢ un a a Lota black one the Bagby vet hat had a 27 MIDWINTER SEASON peacocks and other gorgeously plumaged living birds. Then at the top, one came upon the Rajah’s well, where, in a setting of orange trees, gracefully jewelled Oriental delicious drink in betrousered maidens long-stemmed and sery ed impressively be- one with a | giaSses. The Cheshire Cheese, a reproduction of the famous London coffee-house of that name, was very well patronized, as was also the Café de Paris, the Italian ling Golden Restaurant, West Cabaret. and the spar k- The British tank did its bravest to demonstrate just what a tank can d , basement } petent judg genuine article. | trenches, Dullding, ' 1 1: r 4} s to be an excellent replica of the which occupied the were said by com- The exhibition by the foremost sculptors of America likewise attracted a number of people to the roof of the Ritz. aiternoon wearing a smart close hat and a the opening Robinson was in Monda \ musicals morning a , and her mart frill Miss charm one . rentre ornaments ( Among the visitors on were Mrs. Jay Gould, long velours coat, and Mrs. Perry Bel- mont, in dark furs and a hat trimmed with flaring goura. Vanderbilt, Mrs. William K. junior, was still another of the smart women who took an ac- tive interest in this event, as were also Mrs. William Payne Thompson and Miss Mary Cass Canfield. SEEN AT THE OPERA At the opera, one con- tinues to see some very interesting evening gowns and a jewels. few handsome One evening when Geraldine Farrar charmed her audience in her new and perfected interpreta (Continued on page 8ob) 4 Anita Lawrence re with v coifure / p ra

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VOGUE FOR A WARMER CLIME, EITHER SOMEWHERE IN THE SOUTH OR SOME- TIME IN THE FUTURE

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me. peor January ADVANCE GUARD THE OF SPRING MILLINERY AND VEILS THAT GO OVER THE TOP FIVE PHOTOGRAPHS POSED BY BETTY LEE ar t/ r t t fu ( man — Si ha ind l 7 for / mm in é r i 4 r Z r ¢ r ma? ri d / 1 f ind ira // r ’ 1 ( a 7 r ich P ] P " Z l 2 char 7 7 r “ 7 6 Oe gp eer a (Left) OF coursé, all sweaters are supposed to warm one, like the sun, but very few sweater look as delightfully like sun- light as do ti one of solt yellow wool jersey with ci lars and cuffs of yellow angora The close-ftting knitted hat to match is an added bit of sun- shine that suggests a golden halo; from Zahrah (Below) She looks a wee bit superior, but who wouldn’t in an Odette hat that looked like this? The brim is of black straw, the crown is of tan linen crash, fm / roidere d in Ché nille im many colours, and the whole 1 too effectiz é to 4 thing but this bright green—no y » an la hea } , other colour would have done— worn witnh any- } vel Of sulk chiffon with satin- l inded edges; from Littwit:

Page 32

THE “MISE EN

& a ‘ : the early spring fashion ck is slim and straight,

ut there is a s Itness, achieved by clever drap- ing of the skirt, that gives a pleasant summery ffect The dress fastens at the side and seems to be made of one straight piece, which laps ver in front. The narrow hem is achieved by vide band of th epe eteor, running in a

en

~ TRG TN LN IE AHR

Page 33

January

f r ~~ > : . f 4 \ } < | / 4 ] y, ' P \ }

2 y \ j } \ | | | amt we i | |

ht) Th is coat is a whole chapter jrom the much-needed book Be Smart, ] er lotoring

Everyone who was mad about ersey last ga / L ti 70) uth this season, because it’s just 75 mart a (VET, this frock and t/ one abot 4 are from Berg- dort Goodman

different direction from the upper part of the skirt and attached to it by a heavy cording of the material. An irregular insert of blue chif- fon is placed around the waist, and the narrow turn-over collar and cuffs are of the blue chif- fon over the crépe meteor, and the buttons, too, are of the blue chiffon. The seams of the dress are cleverly concealed by cording, and where the blue material joins the white, there is a fine cording. \t the upper right on this page is one of the newest sports costumes consisting of a separate skirt and blouse; the blouse is darker than the skirt, and that is what one will see in the smart- est sports clothes this season,—the blouse of darker material than the skirt. The skirts are of white piqué, linen, crash, and serge, and sometimes they are of white rajah silk or pongee. The blouse of the costume illustrated is white summer silk, spotted with navy blue.

| They deliberately inserted an wregular plece of dark blue chiffon at the waist-line of this white crépe meteor {ror k, and, Strangely enough, 1t really help "da reat deal It has a little gilet and collar and cuffs of white organdie, and at the neck there is a flat tailored bow of navy blue silk. The skirt is of white piqué, straight and quite narrow, with a slight fullness shirred under a narrow belt at the waist; front and back are alike in design. At the lower right on this page is a very new and decidedly clever suit for sports wear. It is made of pale yellow homespun, and the coat is lined with onion brown silk. ‘The coat ts just sleeve length and appears to be perfectly straight, although it is narrower at the bottom than at the top, a cut which is effected with a fitted band at the bottom of the coat. The coat fastens with large buttons, extending from the bottom half way to the top. The slim ight skirt conforms with the line of the coat and is built on a yoke. A suit of this sort is one of those truly indispensable factors in the wardrobe for southern wear, and homespun is a material ideaily adapted to it. It is very light in weight, yet warm encuzh for cool mornings.

When the designers told us about a dark blouse and white skirt, we were a bit skeptt- cal until we saw this This is one of those homespun suits that are rapidly going to Palm Beach. If the coat were unbuttoned, you could see tts onion brown lin- ing; this frock and the one im the middle are from Gidding

Page 34

EVERY BIT OF WOOL THAT YOUR SUIT DE- NIES ITSELF GOES TO KEEP A SOLDIER’S SHOULDERS WARM; THAT’S WHY IT IS MOST PATRIOTIC TO AFFECT THE SLIM SILHOUETTE 7 ] gu s G « mate B i k il i 7 vaist nd checks in all colours, and not in all sizes, are spoken of fa lgners This checked material is ¢ rnamented writ Z gr id ( bir ] th plain, and the effect is really very smart You we ” L Sl other the slim d tir bla met nor n ut it 22 ta I , re ais uldn t know that thts suit ts eé f Rha uch in air ¢ is. It’s the short coat and ti : they are both saving wool ry good thing about the suit ide draping of the skirt; it gt s lthouette which the scissors of 1 ners seem to have already cut Although this suit 1s mad f navy blue gabardine, bound wit! braid (that braid which is used —and it’s good if it ning clothes, ould De 7% ery 2° z combination of material ute uit 1s probably ti that has happened on thi; pa cause it 1s a combination of nd plain material, — cinnamo and café au lait checked velour The rather long and narrow skirt is ky . Pastod platted, ? in {rc nd and the coat 1s cut away squar and h ings ma trait ht box li VOGUE ut Mee

Page 35

CFE IRIN PLETE ANN ROT A ans

oneness se aes to January 15 with bla black << NOUGH wise m Variety propriate than cate assistance ’ 1 1 only D the Gra! im ther sures the m very act of p things were un

TWO MODELS FROM WORTH costume isn’t ack / } hit

k and trin 1 / hite ch A § aS good a i tea is a very ‘i t whicn 1s PI priate to a I casion never more ap- vhen it is applied to that deli- ich we can designate of nake-

hile she is in the a that such when she was

young. But grand: r, dear old lady, is just a little shaky to fa The rouge pot was not entirely known, even in her girlhood, al- though it had ittle hiding-place of its own and feared to let elf be seen upon her toilet table And alt h grandmamma scorned its use, sometime reminiscent mood she confess to the ‘ptitious us¢ f a geraniun petal crushed against a cheek which was pale in anticipation of “his” presence at the Christ- mas dance. MAKE-UP AND MODERATION H wever, m ike up tor every -day wear is ever so much older than that Archeologists delve into the remotest B. C. ages, they excavate Pompeian lava, they dig in Egyptian sands, they overturn the stone Crete, a the trail of the powder-puff, stick is over them all undoubtedly p pointed end of fire which Adar the apartment temporary port hope that she w pencil, and the lip nclude that Eve with the 1 the evebr They « uinted her eyebrows a burnt stick from the very first n built in Eden raits « f did it after they moved out of As there are no con- the result, we can only with discretion For To See the Smartest Street Clothes, Find the Parisienne at Luncheon at a Restaurant; to See the Most Charm- ing Evening Frocks, Catch Her at Dinner Seeberger Freres That Lanvin is an artist in exterior decoration is proved conclusively by this costume, seen in the Bois one clear day DCEUILLET

A black velvet gown with green taffeta and jet trimming refutes the theory that black is alto- gether mournful

WINTER WHIMS THAT WARM THE HEART OF PARIS

at Home

Against a background of snow this patriotic person must sug- gest an animated tricolour, for her coat is of blue elours and her scarf is of red wool and ends in a broad fringe WOOL exaggeration, ridiculous in so many cases, is fatal here. There are women who indulge in a perfect orgy of facial decoration and wear enough paint to furnish quite a colony of In- dians, without improving the appearance of a single feature by the process. Because, in her latest comedy, Mlle. Chose, who is known to be nearing fifty, preserves the illusion of being eighteen by the clever manipulation of cos- metics which are seen from a distance, across transforming footlights, these decorated ladies imagine that they achieve the same effect, al- though they are seen hand and in the all-revealing light of the sun. They quite for- get that stage light subdues the most brilliant hues, and so the result of their efforts is disaster, pure and simple. close at THE DUTY OF WOMAN 3ut there is really no successful against the clever and appropriate use of cos- metics in every-day life, for in this matter every con may be refuted by a whole flock of pr argument If a woman has straight hair and wavy locks are more becoming to her, she uses an iron a legitimate aid to making herself attractive— which is an integral part of the Whole Duty Woman. Just so, she may resort to the use bistre, if she is afflicted with white eyelashes and eyebrows. In neither case has anyone the right to criticize or to interfere. But, modera- tion, mesdames. It is especially wise to cling to moderation in these war times, when we are banded together to avoid extravagance in all things. And besides, make-up and mourning are two things which seem to have a natural

Page 36

4 VOGUE os = S co = “Ow

Page 37

January 15 } , a p 1 q nd } ] ; | 7a itters t faitnfu irivmn i Her coat of light Bordeaux velveteen, with a collar and broad cuffs of muskrat and gold / uttons, ha wgeniou f which might be made as conve) q those worn by the Heather G es fa ee ; \ \ MODELS FROM POIRET The Parisienne can be demure and som- bre as to costume for just so long, and then she ts sure to appear in something striking as this seal-trimmed coat of purple brocade with gold tasseled cords When the designers and ali those other pe Ip wi vpened are needed to mak a Paris gown the perfect thing it is, had quite fir ished with their mysteri- ous rites and operations, this satin frock found it- self all black and blu Total abstinence from wool is a climax of patriotism which has its advantage in a black satin coat, effectively lined with black and white figured silk, and trimmed with strips of blue monkey fur

Page 38

it if r , i ty wl I t phere and persot With Wali-NanegmMys, ver i bowl filled with fruit nd ne r two , f ar tic cherished ture 4 A in may reate her VI n W n find a new piquan- cy in th 1 1Z¢ experienced witt teyw teps S § i iT which they have lived. Quite as thougl were traveling. all t . c adventure are experi ed vit it an rt j ted by trur \ packed for the tr : the treet as for a age or at iton e trif MOTOR COATS WITHOUT MOTORS Amid all the depriva- r ° a ae a | thir a1 y coats an 1 designed for motoring, quite as if the military authorities who requisitioned our cars ays just at the point of returning matter, after all, so what does it the result is good for business? Is not 1ise de Chabannes charming, ready to start on a mythical voyage, in an embroidered t if f vorn un the most perfect of motor ¢ Her g sketched at the lower right on page 38, is of bure, in pomegranate colour, finished at the edges with a sort of blanket stitch in yellow and red. T he re is a | € It striped » colours. The hat is a cap-like af- fair in f very dark blue 1 ¢ t > colours as the + sth iced ver cl se t to g a part of the \ few women of exquisite taste wear only v eve der their lovely afternoon furs or their he but indispensable fur coats. Such i t uy consist of a very simple all- vhite frock, or of a white blouse and skirt, ac ling to the circumstances. In either case it great surprise when the wearer slips ff tle and shows the immaculate « ] eneatn Many women make the mistake of assuming t which is popular is necessarily whereas it is rather the converse which is tru t is popular it is not smart. To be chic a th must be seen seldom, and it must be worn by certain women of approved taste, hose sanction will make it fashionable within a few months. This is espe ially true of blouses slouse ffer an opportunity to adapt a style to one’s personal taste, making it quite dif- ’ i ferent from the models which are manufac- tured the thousand. The Poiret blouse on page 37 is very new and shows an inimi- table touch in its embroidery and in its neckline rhe linen is so fine that it is semi-transparent the pink or black ribbons of one’s lingerie. ‘These details give an incompara- ble charm to a blouse. The costumes of French peasantry have also been used as moc f ! + tne leis . - - e newest blouses. Some models are c I ied Brittar the much-pleated blouses of other itate the moujiks of Russia, still others repeat the fichu of the martyr queen of France, but each one has the personal touch as well to know MODELS FROM JENNY f followed the Because Paris is partial to gray and to Straight and narrow wa t patriotic suits, fur-trimmed coats, this coat is of gray and the blue china buttons were just as wool velours with opossum im ever so circumspect. The fur bands are of rabbit many places and with a belt of silk cords Her pink ril uch large eyelets, Out she was wise enougn VOGUE bon belt didnt really needa would be on effective the a black tulle and satin frock Under the topcoats and the trotteur jackets which Jenny turns out in such perfection, one comes upon all sorts of unexpected and charming surprises in the way of blouses. It is at luncheon in the restaurants or hotels that one has the best oppor- tunity to see what Paris is r The lack of coal which is having so great an T ym our clothes 1s for all sort f cleverness and _ originality in the way of gilets of silk or of Shetland or Russian wool, fine enough to be taken for silk voile. They are as common as butter- flies in summer and as vari- coloured. Some have long or half-long sleeves, some have clinging sleeves, still others have sleeves of chif- fon so that the coat will slip on more easily, and all show an ingenuity of de- sign which makes an ele- gance out of a necessity. W -aring responsible FOR AFTERNOON AFFAIRS The models illustrated in this article reflect the exact note of the clothes which

Page 39

BOS =

January

bow windows, the ling-room has taken on more festive air than it wore last year. in gowns somewhat décolleté give a note of gaiety and an illusion of warmth. Paquin, Jenny, and Poiret have designed special gowns for this dinner hour The full evening toilette, with its low-cut bodice, is no longer permissible, but the greatest cleverness is shown in the ar- rangement of beautiful materials, and novel ef- fects, which are apparently quite simple, are contrived with knowing ingenuit In the evening, Mademoiselle Cécile Sorel, «

MARTIAL AND ARMAND

r th inder r and purt t ‘ 1? is a Sa ind 1s as a train mec lie-Fr incaise ils t iiwavs wears lise gown, ¢ lered or draped 1 jue folds, and made of some thin fabric in a pale colour. ‘The Princess Lucien Murat adopts Persian effects, well-suited to her type, and Madame de Blest Gana wears, among other charming models, a creation of Lucile, in black chiffon velvet. The gown bl satin and tulle, sketched at the upper 1 page 36, has large slits outlined with jet : front and suggests the days of the Renaissance In the matter of jewellery, the only permis- sible ornament is the string of pearls. Some- times, however, a jewelled slide glitters brightly

being worn for luncheon or for afternoon affairs in Paris, at the present time. ‘The hats | and have veils of the same col ur, with large dots or design This style of hat he persistence of the round simple tlines a pretty head so charm- awa ' hermetically sealed Women

a OU EE fi, Hes; fig ~ |

/ fy fo} om a { < Lye ap © ii + ’ rv i] 4) le es 7 s | 4'\ | | / | Ye } ~ \ a POIRET ery This is a white linen version of the peasant blouse of Brittany, with a Z finely ple ated bodice and braided on the ribbon of a lorgnon or a monocle, and occasionally on the clasps of a velvet or light leather hand-bag one sees precious stones. Many women have a bag to match each of their costumes. Some are mounted in tortoise- shell and some in cut steel; many are beaded, and sometimes the beaded motifs are mixed with others painted by hand, as in the bags sketched on page 38. Every time that the Count de Montesquiou speaks in public, a large and fashionable audi- ence comes to hear him. The conference held recently at the Georges Petit galleries, for the benefit of “Les Amis des Artistes,” was really a reunion of the smart world—a thing which has become very rare in these days. Every woman

y % In spite of its Greek pattern, this tea-gown, de- signed by Lucile for Mme. Mona Delza, who is now playing at the Théatre Edouard VII in Paris, has a Spanish air

abandoned her cherished trotteur for the occa sion and appeared in more formal garment Madame Ida Rubinstein was among the per formers and, as always, her plastic beauty w much admired. Her gown, sketched at the t on page 38, was of black velvet embroidered in gold, in the style of the Renaissance. The Chan- tilly lace sleeves were transparent, giving th effect of long mittens. Her very original coif- fure was of silver, set with brilliants, and her whole costume was in harmony with the ver which she recited in her thrilling voice. In tl audience at the benefit was the Duchess d Grammont, enveloped in a cape of black satir and wearing a feather toque which resembled :; great bird with outspread wings. The Counte de Ludre, in steel coloured velvet embroidered in chenille, also wore one of these winged toques, in metallic blue. Mlle. Sorel wore a long cloak of broadtail with a hem of marten. Her amus-

| | CHANEL a ; , — There must be a place in the sun ¢ in a Paris winter for this gray Jerse cloth suit with a brave ing little hat was of postilion shape, like that of a 3alzac character of 1840. The crown was some- what pointed and fell back on itself; it appears on page 38, at the upper right. Many of the women wore small hats of feathers or breasts with wings arranged to make them look like the man-birds who have flashed through the air over Paris ever since the early days of the war. Paris has always reflected the events of the day in women’s clothes, so it is natural that this winged headgear should appear to recall the aeroplane and to remind those who might for- get, of the heroism of these guardians of the city. ,

Page 40

MARTHE GAUTHIER The picturesque beauty of Mme. Ida Rubin- tein, who recited at an artists’ benefit, was set a black velvet dress, embroidered in gold, in the Renaissance Style ; i 8 | | BAGS FROM PREMET Fur bags are very fashion- able this winter. An espe- cially charming one is made and black beads, of sealskin and painted vel- ad tassel vet and coloured beads BAZAARS AND BENEFITS HAVE TAKEN THE PLACE OF THE ONCE’ INDISPENSABLE the Duchess de "One nmont “FIVE O’CLOCK” OF THE PARISIENNE VOGUE at a benefit for artists git en at the Georges Petit galleries, Mlle. Cécile Sorel wore a black vel: hat in postilion shape, with a draped crown Yellow wool embroidery in blanket stitch and a striped red and yellox belt enliven a dark red costume worn by the Marquise de Chabanne: oO}

Page 41

January GERALDINE FARRAR WEARS FOR VOGUE THE NEW GOWNS AND HATS FROM HER WINTER WARD- ROBE BY HENRI BENDEL

Page 42

VOGUE 4 . ~ ' : . > ~ . 7) ime ‘~S éxtraorad ¢ exotic cause they are naa de of made i. ee se — SS oe ver beads

Page 43

January IT THOUGH THE STAGE MAKES MANY DEMANDS UP- ON THE PRIMA DONNA, EVERY-DAY LIFE HAS ITS EXIGENCIES TOO, AND IN THESE BENDEL COSTUMES GERALDINE FARRAR MEETS THEM ALL

Page 44

VOGUE MRS. ARTHUR STICKNEY rier, daugh Mrs. Stickney b and is acting on the com- vy Comforts Le 12Ué

Page 45

LAUGHTER.—THE REACTION The Phenomenon of Continued Gaiety Does Not Mark the Nation at War as Heart- less and Frivolous, but Rather as Seek- ing the Imperative Relief of Laughter [' is one of the phenomena of a time of stress that people seem to pursue the search for pleasure with redoubled eagerness. ‘With a light heart’? the in- habitants of Paris declared war on the Prussians in 1870, and throughout the months when the enemy was at their gates, and starvation was stalking through the streets, the tinkle of operettas and the laughter of farces continued in the theatres. In England, three years ago, when Kipling was calling upon his countrymen “to face the naked hour in silent fortitude,” the people decreed the banishment of serious drama from their theatres, and called for the deluge of farce and musical comedy which has continued ever since. And in America, after almost a year of participa- tion in the most terrible war in history, the desire for amusement seems to be but little abated, and it is the theatres with plays prevailingly frivolous or transient in tone that are drawing the largest audiences. Such a reaction to the summons of war, to the call for exalted thinking and self-sacrificial living, is not exceptional. It has been the rule in most of the warring countries. NE’S first feeling, in considering these paradoxical phenomena, is a disagreeable sense of disillusion. Are the peoples taking their vows, consecrating their blood and treasure, only for the sake of rhetorical effect? Is there an eternal perversity in human beings which impels them to fiddle while Rome is burning? One does not willingly believe it. Doubtless there are many individuals who are unrepentantly frivolous. It is easy to revel in the mellifluous polyphony of fine phrases. It is natural for the selfish person to seek in pleasure a refuge from the call to sacrifice. But it is not so easy, as Burke pointed out, to draw up an indict- ment against a whole people. Is it not possible that the apparent frivolity which the American people, and the English and French peoples as well, seem to exhibit in the face of the present crisis, is in reality a wise and wholesome fortifying of the spirit to meet ‘the naked hour’’? \ HEN an army is crossing a bridge it breaks step, in order to avoid that con- stant rhythmic vibration that would tear the cables apart like threads. The bridge can endure any amount of direct strain, but it cannot stand that ceaseless pounding in the same rhythm. It is said that in a certain European cathedral there is a vaulted chapel so nicely attuned to a certain musical note that the constant sounding of that note would shake its stones and bring them tumbling down in ruin. Such a structure is the human organism. It demands variety for its very existence. And when the pressure in a certain direction is strongest, it instinctively seeks its self-preservation in the opposite. Ceaseless high thinking will tear down the human organism as effectually as ceaseless hard working. There is something profoundly wise in the old sagas that represent the bravest fighter as the loudest laugher and the heaviest drinker. This rush of people to the theatres and concert halls is perhaps a wholesome search for something with which to rebuild war-worn nerves. It is a search for that best recreation which is a re-creation of the whole man. ERTAIN members of Lincoln’s cabinet once chided him for his habit of inter- rupting serious cabinet meetings with a funny story. Suddenly becoming grave, Lincoln replied: “Gentlemen, the strain of this war is so terrible that if I did not relieve it with such stories I should die.” OF ADVERSITY

Page 46

44 6S NIGHT-THIRTY ?” FV tric “On dut \ men’s Ser ; J

rt . } , iS s entit ] ( at t l n, hei Le t n Eng 1, the ¢ t Divisi york reg che I the ~ Commit-

chauffeur t a mere di er of the trafhi A state chauf- feur’s license is required and must be backed lf a mechanician’s certificate from A MOTOR CORPS } She + M 1) t } \y 1 | kl 1 had t i tness 1 é fic at | nd » B elg tl Wa l ) ce } ( e C Be - X Cu < ik d ININ THE MOTOR CORPS O ¥ by ligl beg If they d ‘elg e. I te M D vi a pe Once wl +] lready } of Then I |} i itl by they get d I 2 Our 2, ‘In a ( g \r — a- The E Working Hard, Both to Win the War and to Con- vince the Army That Women Are Good Soldiers

BY B. THAT IS

D. THORNLEY

VIEWS efficient

SETVICE a grateful country

MANNED BY National League for Women’s Service Is

h her troops, backgrounded appro-

VOGUE WOMEN

i_—_

to sift out the chaff from the wheat And is this all? Good gracious, no! : d This is merely preparatory. Inoculat a osed of, one begins a system of a hich includes regular class ging, semaphore signalling,

Code work, stretcher drill, ar s setting-up exercise In fact, a n army drills, except the Manual of r ms, are covered. And then one begin ¢ to learn New York. ) “But—” the visitor objected, at thi s point in Lieutenant Baylis’s explanatior K Lieutenant Baylis smiled c “Yes, we're apt to think we know all . about it, just because we've lived here F n all our lives. But, for example, what do E f you know about water-gates? Could you i tell me where all the fire stations are, the arsenals, or armories, or police sta tions? Do you know all the torn up places in the streets and the shorte t routes to avoid them?” b “Certainly not,” said the visitor, de- N cided “Only the Patron Saint of Sub a way Contractors could know that.” a “Nevertheless, we have to learn it all tl What if a ship were leaving the port, |} an unexpected bit of room in her and we could get a Red Cross consign ‘ ¢

ment to her if we made it 1 ixty H Cl minutes—but t in sixty-five? We've F d carried every Ir ] Ippi ' N to tobacco, and we’s 1 time MI “How good?” aske le 1 , eagerly Vv “No,” the Lieutenant smiled. And li again, “No! The traffic men are our best n friends. Would you want me to get tl WwW into trouble? We carry, in our caps. a Bi list of all the 1 portant place in th St And so far we've always | n tl € where we we needed, in t I} o! all I can sa\ Ww “You have ealed ler they te b —having d ith troop moving In THE CORPS CAN KEEP A SECRET But the League didn’t make any mis- take when it chose Lieutenant I li head of the Motor Corps and «

knows how to deal with unwart sity If she were the little Eng y she so much resembles, could talk about what she and her a ciates had done and no one would bl her. But the Motor Corps is The Army thinks—ssh, don’t laugh—tl women can’t serve the Government bs cause they (unlike men) car keep a secret. ‘Therefore, wher you ask a member of the Cory for spec ific data as to where she was and what she did, yester- day, for instance, she turns in nocent blue eyes on you and says that she forgets, or that she has a headache, or is un- derstudying Secretary iel Of course, rumours creep out. It is a woman who drives a quartermaster, carrying one hundred and twenty-five thou- sand dollars, every week. But

n tri

what quartermaster? And where? FOLLOWING THE ENGLISH- ; WOMEN “We believe in prepare ine says the Motor Corps. “In fact, that’s why we were organized at all. We're working, not so much for what we can do now —though they certainly keep us busy—as for what we will | do later on, if the war lasts. : You see, we have England asa sort of road map. The Eng- f X lishwomen were in the same . spot three years ago but now (Continued on page 8ob)

Page 47

(SF SETS PORE TON ERENT AE rs + January 15 S E E N HERE is a common feeling that something is the matter with the contemporary theatre; but, in their diagnosis of the case, a multitude of learned doctors disagree some prescribe an emphasis on scenery and ligh an emphasis on acting, some an et on authorship; one group insis straiter mood of realism, I mends a more wide-winging freedom for romance Many “new tl re have clamoured for the last ten years; but each significance by ideal. In such critic of the dran ingly belaboured by : many standards crashing down upon forehead and many other standard ing upward underneath his chin. aw rid at war THE CASE OF GRANVILLE BARKER The chaos of the current moment may be illustrated by referring to the case of Mr. Granville Barker—a man of young and eager mind who knows the theatre and desires to render a true service to the current drama. In 1910, Mr. Barker wrote and offered “The Madras H use,” with the obvious intent of making the drama look like lif If, with all its in- choateness and its consequent inevitable 1,,)] ° id ] ¢ - lat » duliness; and, only a year or tw iter, Mr. Barker was producing Shakespeare in a revolutionary manner, with the ob- . ; vious intent of making the drama look like decoration—an art more utterly re- moved from life itself t which is recognized in the zsthetic cate- gory. At present, Mr. Barker does n seem to know precisely where he stands either in his attitude tow ird stagecraft or in his attitude toward authorship. He wants to do something f 1 than any otner ior the theatre: but, bewildered in the midst of a myriad incentives, he no longer seems to know Two photographs by Charlotte Fairchild T H E This Is a Chaotic Period in Drama; Clamouring of ‘‘New” Theatres and the Jarring of New Creeds, the Audience Finds Itself Bewildered By CLAYTON HAMILTON (Below) Follow- Vieux-Colombier sh ing their presen- this winter, a aa ‘ performed a Ceremony of the ALLELE REAL: aL Tae lib OM > + A GG EF exactly what he ought to In no other antecedent tory has the current drama, at its best, appeared to be SO heter geneous, r has the current theatre been presul ipted as a laboratory for so ict experiments. What when he finds himself thither, at the same time, ; thetic artists as Gordon Craig hardt Hauptmann, or Rostar a Pinero, or Galsworthy and Maeterlinck, or Synge and Shaw, or Belasco and Copeau? Each of these artists—and tl list might be augmented by many, many t} 1¢ others—is trying to redeem the curren theatre from its admitted lassitude and lethargy; but each comes forward with a special panacea that shows no logical relation to the remedy that is offered by any of the others. When doctors disagree, the patient suffers; and there seems to be a danger that our current theatre may die of in- anition while the experts are conferring in regard to the procedure most likely to galvanize it to that new activity which is eagerly desired by the uninformed un- thinking public. It seems, indeed, a sort of pity that such able men as Mr. Craig and Mr. Galsworthy should be working simultaneously to such antithetic ends, THE THEORY OF GORDON CRAIG Mr. Craig, for instance, has undeniably exerted a stimulating influence; and yet his theory, considered basically, is exces- sive and insane. Mr. Craig conceives the drama as a kaleidoscopic pattern of lines and lights, of colours, forms, and rhythms. He regards the stage-director as the ultimate supreme commander of the collaboration required by this com pound art. He even goes so far as to express a desire to abolish both the au- thor and the actor, in order that the

Page 48

mat tha lived.—may turn out ar De ist as funny as Mr. Fred Ja ksor a Thi . at lea a the optimistic the rv I ve the Théatre du Vieux-Colombier LE THEATRE DU VIEUX- COLOMBIER é he € +} I | 1 , I i j é re fF ; oe produced a few d “ later, included “La Navette’ of Henri Be cque, “Le Carrosse du Saint-Sac ré- ment” of Prosper Mérimée, and “La Jalousie du Barbouillé” of Moliére. These plays were all wort] ing, ll (Continued on page 72) or rt I 1 seeing, and a were

Page 49

January M A K E R S O F M U S I C The Layman Finds That the Esoteric Are Divided into Two and Seventy Jarring Sects By HIRAM KELLY MODERWELL | Z 2 jrom é Eur rep- unin le, ! \ F ufat Li la folk, t e tre dns Symphony . Heifetz, | a pu like an old ar Dic « New York © Mishkin eg ee gr Trent weap ° i 1 heard tl ' . | re ' “Nad ¢ | t pig-1 and t h a Our friend was wise enoug Jucated in ic by foreign profe is mewhat mitigated t day, thanl to ti t irrelevant and casual criticism of news- I paper reviewers, and thank espe ially t | ide l,a 9 ; 1 it pe r too ich even to-day. The | layman does not feel quite at home with u good’ ic, bout h the st the ¢

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48 SAVE WOOL AND riped favours the slim s1 / ma ti i f that 1f wean f khaki tne k of sugar t iportant A i st iff I her COS- end t } ' J ok ] s doing her LS. ole ( ervat vool. Should Ly res ‘d ee 7 am iN | eed. } pata ior we i ’ : Pees: @ i | g i t Kee] i € ’ » il j 4 i y l- 4 HE CONSERVATION OF WOOI At first the government thought that 1 be handled with- t restrictions, but recently it has placed v inder the ntrol of the War Trade Board sefore tl however, the manu- f er thes had e€ W 1is end the igreé ] tnat civilians shall n their coat pr ck- 1 their trousers, and the C t and vercoats B to women the mat- lifficult As there is j part of the authorities \W t suggest that women f any sort, the matter he ion of the individual ‘ \ : nd irer a recent meet- wy, g New York, the important makers a « f women’s clothes agreed to use no more ir and one-half yards of material ir inches wide in any suit or dress limit the yards ; Re pring, and, if possible, to f material to tl iree lhouette—in spite of DESIGNS BY RITA SENGER Es) blue foulard a navy Cherefore, doubtedly will of material will be stuffs used as spat wo y| advocated and ly as possible \ coat which is designed with the slim silhouette in view is pictured at the up- ; per ieit on this page. It is ms new wool material called slendrette, a fabric especially designed for the require- ments of the new iguely re- : modes. It broadcloth, although it ‘ t the lustrous surface sembles has fine self-ton materials ¢ a character eral new imilar ac with the lines widely Some of these, spaced or run together in groups, are very smart. From the same S a new velours with an_ invisible stripe, which resembles wool coat- ing; this comes in many soft col- ours These materials, however, are exceptions, as most of the woollen mills are busy with government work, and no effort is to be made to tempt one, by means of new and beautiful stuffs, into the purchase of wool garments. COLOURS FOR WOOL STUFFS Soft cashmere coatings will be uss 1 for garments, and for the warm suits outer velours and duvetyns will continue in vogue. Among the few novelties of season is a very smart new velours, checked in large blocks of the army and navy colours, khaki and navy blue [he predominating tones of these wool stuffs will be dull tans and slate grays and, next in importance, various shades f Chinese blue. Cashmere coatings in a very light yellowish tan shade, called cantaloupe, are exceedingly good, as are those in a darker tone in the same col- (Continued on page 80) THE VOGUE SOLDIER =, SSP on . a, i | 4 L \ wR } | \ a - i One may be reasonably warm—which all that patriotism expects—in a ga lined cape of khaki coloured shantu ot? it ~ 4 he = “ 5 pu ; ; — { { 4 Ht b : i } { t i j } } ‘ ‘ A country freshness and a city smartné are combined in a frock of brown a buff silkgingham with écru collar and cu

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January 15

TY

4 tailored vlouse ¢ arm khak An oilskin waist coloured Viyella is the correct and lining of wool keeps the am- vear with a regulation servi u bulance driver warm; from Elvery For the u in ride at “W: YMIEN in khaki?” echoed a as the soldier’s own, a service suit for hy Prod ear aeey i steps ; / visiting English officer, the other every possible need of her busy day, and AG oe day, gazing into a Fifth Avenue the women who have always looked smart te re Se Se a window where feminine rigidities in still find ways of adding chic touches to f oe keep De a arys leather and service cloth were exhibited. these essentially useful clothes, so that ntu a ee “Oh, not if there is anything else under the war-worn veterans have something the sun that they could wear. If they attractive to look at, after all. -Here are only knew how fed up we are with the uny suggestions for service clothes from very sight of it.” London tailors, who Yet there have learned by ac- several thousand tual experience the ) women behind the best way to meet British lines in the needs of some France, at the pres- of the ten thousand. ent moment, driving We who are writing ambulances, cooking, letters all night and ’ and nursing the pulling wires all » wounded. Stories of day, in the effort to their twenty-four- “get across,” might | hour days come beguile the tedium - pouring in with every ef waiting for pass- fp / mail; and the clothes ports in preparinz Pa, problem, in addition for the work before eS to all the others, us by ordering some ' would certainly of these smart and J prove the last straw ingenious zgarments, for the strongest of which combine them. Possibly a utility and attrac- war-time chauffeuse tiveness. Such prac- in silks and chiffons tical clothes would would be a delight i be of the greatest to the eye of the | service to women war-worn _- veteran; who are doing war | 1 | | but a few hours of f i work here at home service would see / fii —in our camps, or her reduced to a i] | r) driving cars, for in- bundle ef wied fe 1 stance. rags, unfit for fur- / ther duty, and what / | (Continurd on would the veteran page 7& do then, poor thing? q COMBINING SMART- — — Se Ce NESS AND UTILITY ~ . \ a P= AN ‘ 1 \ But since the one \\ NX : characteristic and int undisputed quality a of woman is adapt- 7 -> ability, we are not Nos - — A becoming and practical pro- surprised to find that <= tection against even conti- she has already tne nental weather is this femini solved this problem. A gray waterproof, originally intende 1 for the and version of a sou’wester and Her tailor has de- Red Cross nurse, will appeal to any woman cu slicker; from Anderson, Ander- signed for her whose work has taken her into the cold rains son, and Anderso clothes as practical

f of northern France and Flanders; from Elvery A WARDROBE for the WOMAN WAR For the Ten Thousand Women Who are Driving Ambulances, Working in Canteens, and Nursing the Wounded Back of the British Lines in France, English Shops Design Special Clothes coat with sleeves 7 he woman War worke r, no matter will find that this suit of khaki uniform quirements; from Durward

A black rubber h and chee storms th ey are son, WORKER

49

in what department, cloth meets many re- ri \b \ f ) \) v4 _ ¥ rubber coat and a red at will keep one dry rjul in spite of winte “behind the lines’; from Anderson, Ander- and And ? on

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Turkish LAGS . yO im?) X22) tae RIDE ARG a> ee, fe it ae a A ** ® gs ‘| ; roe s = ) Po gt at E BAR- REGRETS THE OFFERINGS OF JANU- ARY SALES ARE TH xAINS OF NO (

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| January 15 BEGINNING THE YEAR WITH NEW LINENS WM ae TO REPLETE THE STOCK OF HOUSEHOLD LINENS , and j t / an 0) al d y } e A . f- - , ] ch ma had w $4.75 complete T hir- towelling; 49 inches long; $7.50 a dae r teen-piece t, $9 Bb D3 7 ~pQOad ? towel has a corduroy weave and a plain border fi | 4 lover of beautiful things must have ade this scarf of Venetian filet lace, cut- rk, and embroidery; 44 mches tong, $22 well as does inches rad ide: 40 1? Ches lov g; $6 a doz n Sn EE NAIR handkerchief linen, with Venetian filet lace motifs and with cut-work which comes in two different weights of linen; 18 inches long; $1.50 , "" , Tana . bd } js j “ } j - L, and embroidery. This « ? ? } veral designs of embroidery; he silk-covered pillow has a down filling and may ! had w nR, 18 incl los $i2 rose, blue, or yellow; $2

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h dresses of the shops will be furnished on t, or The Shopping Service of Vogue will buy without extra charge. Address Vogue Service, 19 West 44th Street, New York te 7 that ; t ] c er nnd ne hat is at all unusual. However, the | ne of a heavy vicuna n W , sketched in the \ middle of this page, at ) the top, is distinctive st women insist on, ven This sweater iy b lered C I 1 € btained I C $5 extra. | Ret al r s r sketch silk hirred {n unusu h is used te é 1 - knit a hand-made sweater « in / ] Ca d Sy 7 q : 9 ; 1 Jay ‘ I handle yet is attractive when worn without on cost The back extends about twelve inche een ill of below the waist-line and is finished with r e and r t ] t - r . while the two tas- tle diff t rm the front cross VOGUE S = \ 7 sweater ends in t long $10.75. The hat 1 liner r and 1 stra $78 nd tie at one sid \ wool braiding, of ime colour as the sweater, finishes Loe Th weater may be had in Copenhagen ue, green, violet, or old- rose. The gold tagel straw hat shown m he same sketch has a crown of buff coloured linen crash, embroidered in gold 1 whit 4 WASHABLE SKIRT In the sketch in the middle, at the bottom of this age, 1S a sleeveless sweater which shows clever working out —or working together—of stitches. This sweater is of Shetland wool and has a new touch in the fastening of the belt; it may be had in Nile green, pink, or tan. The box- pleated skirt shown with this sweater is of cot- ton gabardine with a border of coloured stripes, —a new and welcome iriation of the ever-use- ful washable whi irt [he stripes are in light blue and gold, light green nd gold, or Oxford gray and gold, and are re- peated in the belt. Shown in the same sketch is a hat of khaki colourec s itin, faced with khaki coloured straw; moire ribbon, in the same tone, encircles the crown. FOR SPORTS WEAR \ high-necked blouse of fine white batiste is sketched at the upper left on this page. A narrow row of filet lace bands the llar and extends down he front, between squares of hemstitching and hand- embroidery. Groups of tiny pearl buttons trim the front pleat, and fine cordings finish the arm- hole and join the waist and collar. The skirt is f white cotton tricotine vith mercerised stripes which form an attractive plaid. It is well fitted in the front and has shir- rings at the back, which A Shetland wool sleeveless Black silk braid trims a navy give a little extra fulness sweater, in green, pink, or tan; blue gabardine frock; $50. on the hips. The hat $6.75. Skirt of white cotton Black satin hat; $20. Chenille- shown in the same sketch gabardin¢ vit] oloured bordered veil: $1.05 Taffeta is of brown and tan border; $6.75. Satin hat; $18 parasol, cloisonné handle; $12 checked taffeta. a om = r= KA

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new problems buy or to plan in haste. January 15 SMART F VEN if one is not to |t 1 during the bleak m id February the display attractive materials tempt or at least to plan, one’s mer wardrobe And f this is a wise step, when the war COMBINING SCANT The spring new designs will use w I ible. ‘To this end, | mb tione af tu ( 1oINnation Such combinati ery mart cost ( n ind gad d i be seen in ta Satin ee t nd these C j ote j {Tt f +} | i n in the imj I ( t la Ira 1¢ re t | i } 4 4 i hit } { - tT I \ French d » h tl ( that it / le ne i iC Se 1¢ 1 ight le i long re. ‘The « ( } te the e. It be or- ed t isure in : P ul i ina- of vi If de 1 lor It 1 h t early loreca thentical- he f the tailor- le lits, Dut we are F 1 that it | ‘ason in which 1its will be worn a great : aa ; I he im straight uette will ' d ubt the smartest nd the gyn will De Sil iple, th on touche é 1 there. Ther lecided tendenc ive i W I ned l t ng a > while other W be the uniforms of En- h and American ficer THE TAILORED SUIT AGAIN The sketch at the pper right on this page a simple tailleur town and_ general ir. It is of navy blue ad wack loca lark linings are the newest, and black particularly mart e unusual feature of suit is the use of hree circular bands, forming the skirt of the at at the back and ASHIONS for be going south = The spring sili evere and straight has gone fortn yards are ippear on sum- shortage in ma- ingenious combi- frocks like this LIMITED iu four and enough for a suit The collar coat swathes falls to th 7 { ze . bined in a frock of Georgette crépe or rn INCOMES side > a deep shawl collar fold about the neck to the fastening front. ‘The skirt is made on a ’ke, which runs acro and it hangs quite straigh full. The suit may be ordered n measure in an excellent quality of serge or gabardine for $65. For the young girl, nothir the place of the straight one-piece frocl especially one of the convenient slip-or over-the-head kind that laces at the front. Such a frock has been designe for southern wear and is shown in t sketch at the lower left on this page. It is of white crash, made with a long straight waist to the hips. A narrow belt of the material outlines the waist with out drawing it in, and a straight skirt attached to the long waist section; the line is youthful and becoming to the slight figure, and a frock so simple is adaptable to many uses. ‘The lacing through the hand-embr ele i a fine silk braid in ac f will be copied to measure in linen crash, in white or colours, for $3 may be had in a fine beize or navy blu serge, cut to measure, for $50. LINEN AND ORGANDIE A most unusual desicn and an unusual combination of materials are carried in the linen frock for a young girl th shown at the upper left. The fact it 1s gether made by hand ad lv t s charm. Two shades of kerc linen are used, with a gilet and sleeves of organ lie | liner band The frock ed 1 in linen of a warm tan, with section larker brown linen used as a trimm These “patches” are used at the bot of the skirt and around the lower part the blouse, alternating dark with light, like a chequer-board; hand - hemstitching and French _ knots in the darker shade make lines of trin ling 1 at the seams The tie me ing. of is f dark crepe Chine. This frock m be had in two sha of o'd-blue, or in two shades of yellow, rose, or mauve; in e: the frock is of fine | kerchief linen, wit und rb dice of w h i te organdie; made to mea ure and_ entirely hand; it costs $60 hades and tw Two s materiais are a »¢ : > gette cre} \ fon and satin for warmer weather; th frock is sketched at the bottom of this page, in the middle. Over straight slip of café au lait satin is used darker tan chiffon The It 1 ay be rdered in | various combinations of i scarf chiffon or Georgette collar crépe and satin for $¢

Page 56

VOGUE The YOUNGER GENERATION i 1 S/ / it alread , ) j , ar} ha , , rs a ” mthful friend a ma- ruy 1 Her if 1 frimmed fj i 1/7 4 tfaci braid, and 4) nter ing hin - 1 f rege cr ror The dr s ms the belt at the back d t brown and at either side in patches of 1 tle u nbroider d and and i but the braid iia 4 ‘ ibd 4 > mye hs pares NY ON , After that velvet has done for the older AY Ni, 7 man, it is only fair that it should make a f the woman hetween twelve and six- ’ 7 yne of old-blue velvet, trimmed with tiache braid to match, 1s worn over an u t Of pale yellow silk mar puisette lack braid v1d ind f it, Whe the ul -de bh gore skating, a narrow utache braid em- ynly a gaily coloured costume will nak ti} blue match her mood Herz 1 skirt of ly the distinctive gray velours, checked with moss - 7 use slips on green, is topped by a jacket of nd has a narrou emerald green velvet with bands 1 with a flat bow at f lours, embroidered w ray : TI inderbdiouse may ana reer vool { cart of ereen : 1x hite me? elvet trimn d ews these f ands Du L t ends 1 i [rig ra and green

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January ¥ => @& w E& a. a ie ie ee These Serviceable Frocks of Smart De- sign Have Belts and Collars with a Winning Way That Brings Distinction “SHE patterns on this and the following pages are in sizes 34 to 40 inches bust measure, 24 to 30 inches waist measure, and 35 to 41 inches hip measure, unless other- wise specified Vogue patterns are 50 cents for each waist, suit coat, skirt, smock, lingerie, or child’s pat- tern; $1 for complete costumes, one-piece dresses, separate coats, and long negligées. An illustra- tion and material requirements are given with each pattern. When ordering Vogue patterns by mail, please state sizes and order from RN SERVICE, 19 WEST VOGUE PATT "REET, NEW YORK CITY EL 44TH STREI Vogue patterns may be purchased at the Vogue Pattern Sales Rooms: NEW YORK CITY: 10 West g4th Street NEWARK, N. J.: L. Bamberger & Co PHILADELPHIA: Empire Building (Room 304), 13th and Walnut Streets BALTIMORI The Flower House Studio, Charli and Hamilton Streets PROVIDENCE: Gladding Dry Goods C BOSTON: 1490 Tremont Street (Room 605 BUFFALO, N. Y.: Flint & Kent PITTSBURGH: Joseph Horne © Co., 5th and Penn Avenue CLEVELAND: Halle Brothers, Euclid Avenue \ } . CHICAGO: Stevens Building (Room 0932 0 ¥ \ > } . HH Wabash Avenue \ XR Heres / ATLANTA: The Smart Shop, Connally Bu eis Y ing (Room 203) LOS ANGELES, CAL.: Bullock's 4 SAN FRANCISCO: 233 Grant Avenue, Josep) Buildn | SEATTLI he Grifin Specialty Shop, 1602 7 f Second Avenue ATLANTIC CITY, N. J.: Braunstein-Blatt MONTREAL, CANADA: The Children’s Shop, , . : ; 43 McGill College Avenue , eee ee oe LONDON, E. C., ENGLAND: Rolls House Frock No. Byo81. By cutting the Tena esti 3 ur RB PE ae , tunic and the upper section of tl ) 7 IuUUAaIN ge . . " t/ distinct waist in one piece, a smart and lender silhouette is achieved ~ | @- ‘ f | it KS : : Fe " Fa ¢ N ote—Complete de- ] ii ' . Le scriptions of all pat- eck TNS WI } foun (Right) Frock No. Bai J A terns will be found : : ; on pages S82 and 80 { one-piece model is unique | ‘ collar and cuffs, its imulated front fastening, \ | A | ; l j | | ‘a | ; i es i j | :f i / | - “ f a S Waist N Bg112; Skirt L / Frock No. B4g115. A new | } \ cies 1 7 ’ \ B4113 Thi lraped as ~ and interesting version of te i + mid “ birt distinguishe itself DY q pocket effect; it is / * modified version of the bus- topped by a surplice waist Lf 1 tle drapery lend charm to i} i \ \, W,4 a istens mal v at - \A this distinctive one-pwce } Us © the ba y silk fro } oe | t 1 the surplice line and a much Vy j Lat | |

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VOGUE Byo55 FROCKS THAT ARE FORMAL AND FROCKS THAT ARE INFORMAL, TO MEET THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE PRACTICAL WARDROBE i cis - = ~ | | MM, | | Aa ii \ B3928; Skirt No Waist N B3735; Skirt No Waist N Byos58; Skirt B3929. A fr th a new vest B3736. Foulard or serge are equal- Byoso. The back drapery sus ly suitable for this frock gests the bustle silhouett Fro line ma

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January Oe cere , . } f | } Vote —Complete Big } descriptions ¢ f ; | all patterns will PF | | be found oO} I} pa 82 and 86 j j 4 “ “IT a ~~ ‘ q r i i a ~~ Frock No. B3952. A de vit Waist No. B24098; Skirt No. B2499. Frock No. B4034. This one-piece Waist No. B3947; Skirt No. B3948. the waistcoat effect su ts a new 1 blue silk fro rgandi draped frock may be worn either with 1 oming collar and a new pocket h ma have or } f combiniw te naterial collar and cuff ged wit or without a high lace yok arrangement recommend this model | j A SIMPLE FROCK, BY EMPLOYING ANY OF THESE METHODS, MAY SHUN THE COMMONPLACE > 7 ‘ i ] ee ed _fil ( i Frock No. B3965. The surplice Frock No. B4o27. This Waist No. B4036; Skirt Frock No. B4o30. A frock Frock N o. B3864. Cutty he line and the line of the tuni frock is attractive im a Vo. Byo37. A distinctive of crépe may have its back lt and side gore in one piece } I - r J leon 2aPAy , J pratt rm ) my? od 7 make this a_ becoming lesign wide arwty of material frock im waistcoa éttect drapery faced with atin nak commodiou

Page 60

Blou \ Byoqi a blouse of chiffor the uit with wi orn, the Ini D1 mav be tf ful Wn | TO EACH BLOUSE AND SEP- Wit PAS GeaTipe r TE SK Ss : "EN Ss a Ne LYS 4 ARATE SKIRT IS GIVEN IT rst 4 ) 4 if VY ye A ; Hit 9 OWN DISTINCTIVE FEATURE 4 eit ~~. ‘ B i sais Blouse No. Bgog6. Thi ” attract hlouse | 1 lor j ey , “€ ~- = a / ; y, SS, a | , ~ hel | . * > | | y, 4 am. } i 43\\ | 4 —— ~ oF s c , 3 | | Vv \ } B Vo. Byog8. An K Vo. B3934. Band Vote—Complete de- es e No. Byoq4. A t , rinfior 7 nat- ume blouse mb G t répe has a tu 11d , j u ter vill | und fon with a braided fa) VOGUE

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It is the healthy who know good food. It is those with a sparkle to their eye and a style to their living who most appreciate Franco-American Soups. For these soups are not only richest in nourishment. By reason of their purity, the splendid quality of their ingredients, and the fine French finish in their making, they act as a wholesome stimulant to the digestive glands. The initial spur to the appetite. The deft challenge to desire. The mood which promises a cordial reception to the meal which follows. In soups, as in all things, it is the best which is the most economical. Consider the actual ingredients that go to the creation of that culinary masterpiece, the Franco-American Ox Tail Thick Soup—delicious blend of rich appetizing meat juices and superfine vege- tables—the pick of the market—tomatoes, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, barley, herbs and spices—richly, heartily garnished. For dinner this evening? Merely heat before serving At the better stores Franco - American Soups

Tomato Mock Turtle Vegetable Thick Chicken Chicken Gumbo Ox Tail Thick Clam Chowder Consommé Clear Vegetable Chicken Consommé Pea Clear Ox Tail Beef Julienne Mulligatawny Bouillon Clam Broth Mutton Broth Green Turtie Thick Clear Green Turtle Franco-American Broths for Invalids and Children Broths made at home not only cause needless trouble—often downright friction— in the kitchen, but they are frequently poorly made. Avoid them. Supply the patient with Franco-American Broths—pure, uniform, amber-clear, free of all grease, |= rich in appetizing meat juices, stimulating, beneficial. Beef, Chicken, Mutton.

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- H D ven OF FAT E, b Sir THOMAS inces itself a H ira n imperial < nce ] it f , i ) af er lir h ‘4 «1 | nr 1! ] Ge (

Mar I t Py K id in a pt ( n Pe ally a \\ 0 nt is t ived ( r? 1 Fr Var e of n Bu te aia ee: con Fy v t ind i ne We e tl eating (¢ Prit tl Ber . with hi t ne Id er \ her pr . . hur ir unusu n Gert ‘ P ' m New York: George H. Doran Company; | sorts of infort 1 poli pl $2 net phy Amor e K I resented vac nding natur M? HOME IN THE FIELD OF he pu 1 ir MERCY, by Frances Witson r I sel and | Hvuarp, tells the story of the author’s | pular enthusiasm f N Event é courageous return, after the repulse of presented vividly, conversation is ¢ is€ the Germans, to find her “ : ]

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January 15 Interiors Furniture Fabrics W&J.SLOANE . Floor Coverings Fifth Ave & 4712Si. Decorations New York

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Gown of Georgette Crepe in combination of Navy Blue and light Gray, panels em- broidered with Gray Wool, $8- y Early Spring Styles Women’s Apparel at Mic Cutcheon’s AMES McCUTCHEON & COMPANY display of Women’s and Misses’ Wearing Southern climates and early Spring. mm announce a Apparel for Daytime Dresses in the new printed Chiffons, Silk Ginghams, Georgette, Satin, Foulards, and Taffeta, from $32.50 to 59.50. Gowns of Taffeta in a smart tunic model, Navy and street 2 ; : z shades, $25.0 Morning Frocks of CottonVoile in woven Stripes. Distinctive models with hand-embroidered collar and cuffs, $8.95 to 13.75. Tailored Street Suits in Serges, Twills, Hair-Line Stripes and Checks, $35.00 to 47.50. Suit in a smartly tailored model in a two-tone Cotton Twili in pastel shades, $19.75. 7 op Coats, Serge, Gabardine, novelty fabrics, $29.50 to 37.50. Tub Skirts in the new Cotton and Linen weaves, $5.75 to 16.50. Blouses Blouse of Georgette Crepe with embroidered Dot, shawl collar and cuffs finished with two rows of fluting. Colors: White. Flesh, and Sand, $10.50. Blouse of finely tucked Batiste and Cotton Voile, $3.2 Tailored Outing Shirts of Tub Silk or Linen, $7.5 Send for latest catalogue ). AAMT ANN AEA A 8h, me Fifth Avenue anid di Hi - ae (Continued Courtesy of Dodd, Mead and Company An instance of “Woman As Decoration” is Mme. Adeline Genée in a Victorian costume of the early fortt probably as close to fact The third and final act casts the end of the war as cor through continued success of the Alli omething close on a revolution in Ger- many, and a complete change of heart on the part of the Kaiser, who finally welcomes the Reichstag as an associated governing body. (Boston and New York Houghton Mifflin Company; $1.50 net.) entation 1s the next. ART AND DECORATION HE GRAPHIC ARTS OF GREAT BRITAIN, edited by Cuartes Home and with text by Matcotm C. SALAMAN, consists mainly of reproductions of the work of English artists, both of the past and of the present, in the fields of draw- ing, line-engraving, etching, mezzotint, aquatint, lithography, wood - engraving, and colour printing. Brief and well-writ- ten accounts of each medium and its mas- i grouped ustrations ters precede the under these various headings. It cann be said that the book gives any complete idea of the accomplishment of English artists in any of these fields, for many of the best men are represented either very inadequately or not at all. However, it does include a considerable number of noteworthy works, very well reproduced. Those admirable illustrators, the pre- Raphaelites, appear in excellent drawings by Miuillais, Burne-Jones, and Rossetti. There is a Michelangelesque study for an angel (in chalk) by Alfred Stevens; the eccentric genius of Beardsley and his mastery of black and white are present in “The Birthday of Madame Cigale”; while contemporary drawing reaches a high level in “The Bather,” a study in pencil and wash by William Orpen. Sey- mour Haden, Cameron, Muirhead Bone, McBey, Brangwyn, and Lumsden are among the masters of etching, and the other groups, while smaller, are on the whole well chosen. (New York: John Lane Company; paper, $2.50; boards, $3 net.) OMAN AS DECORATION, by Emity Burpank, has an excellent idea and no small amount of excellent mate- rial, which with time and labour might have been made into a comprehensive and logical book. As it is, though the mo oe oe E A D from page 00 grains of wheat are frequently hid in no inconsiderable amount of chaff, they are often quite wortl the seeking, and the compilation serve as a book of may well un- ready reference for those wh seek light on the vexed problems of dress. ‘There are, perhaps, not many fashion authorities who would not take exception to Miss Burbank’s statement that “the Smartest women, as a nation, are the Englishwomen,” nor would it be generally admitted that the smart woman can be summed up as “she who wears the costume best Appropriateness is, of course, an never suited to each occasion.” essential element, but it is a synonym for smartness, On the subject of the essential relation of costume—not only to personality —but also to back- ground, Miss Burbank has much to say that is of interest and of value. Pleasing examples ot cos- tume throughout the ages serve as illustrations for this book, and an historical summary traces the wrigin of present-day feminine costume. (New York: Dodd Mead and Company; $2.50 net.) NOVELS OF EAST AND WEST HE HEART OF O SONO SAN, by EvizasetH Cooper, presents a story similar in intention and in charm to the author’s earlier volume, “My Lady of the Chinese Courtyard.” ‘These storie by Mrs. Cooper seek, though with lesser urt, to d + Japan and China what the ling itful tales of Mr. F. W 3ain have done for India. How accu- rately either of the writers represents the psychology of those eastern lands, hor far they apply to them the psychology I the occident, is, alt be t, a thankle juestion, for there is in them much of human truth 1 sweetness, so mu of fine philosophy of life, that we care not whether th to some narrow xe r At least they are convincing and adequately ac- curate in all external details, for both Mrs. C n 3ain have lived long in the lands of which they “The Heart of O Sono San” begins with the which celebrate the thirty-third day after that little lady, and it follows her through courageous self-sacrifice to the oper a write festivities } oot + the birth of years of day when she gives her onl; n to pay with his life for the great Japanese vic- tory at Port Arthur. OS San, whose mother is sadly consciou it her baby should have been a boy, is the only child of a noble but impoverished Samurai, the only son of the head of the Toku- wara family. She is taught from | hood the creed of old Japan, that the aDv- only law for woman is that of implicit obedience and loyalty to parents, family, and country. Grown to womanhood and deeply in love with the son of a neigh bouring family, she finds herself forced to sacrifice that love and marry a wealthy official twice her Japanese “self- made man,” in order to re-establish the fortunes of her family. For all this she finds consolation in her son, only rive at the bitter necessity of giving him to the defense of his country. It is not, however, this tragedy of a woman’s life which holds us to the book, but the nobility and sweetness which grow through every tribulation in the heart of O Sono San. Among the secon- dary characters, all of whom are well realized, special mention should be made of O Inkyo Sama, the grandfather, an old Japanese philosopher who has made the pilgrimage of the hundred temples and who teaches Sono a double love of beauty and of duty, and also of O Hana (Continued on page 64) age, a to ar- VOGUE Ae lata eS i Sa

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January ow quickly de. 2 your complexion has improved esinoloap brings out the real beauty of the skin a Many an otherwise attractive girl finds her- self a “failure” because of a poor complexion. If your skin is not fresh, smooth and healthy, or has suffered from an unwise use of cos- metics, see if the daily use of Resinol Soap will not greatly improve it. Resinol Soap is not only unusually cleansing and softening, but its regular use helps nature give to the skin and hair that beauty of perfect health which it is impossible to imitate. Ten- dency to pimples is lessened, redness and rough- ness disappear, and in a very short time the complexion usually becomes clear, fresh, and velvety. The soothing, restoring influence that makes this possible is the Resinol which this soap con tains and which physicians prescribe widely for skin and scalp troubles. This same gentle medication, together with its freedom from irritating alkali, adapt Resinol Soap admirably to the care of the hair, for the bath, and for a baby’s delicate skin. A week's trial should suffice to make Resinol Soap your favorite. Resinol Soap is sold by all druggists through- out the United States and Canada. For trial size, free, write to Dept. 27-B, Resinol Chemical Co., Baltimore, Md

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wa —- Bargesser Hats for early Spring, suitable for Palm Beach and Southern lourists’ ~~ wear,are now being displayed by leading dealers everywhere 4..D. Bargesser § Colne (Wholesale only) land 3 West 37th Street. New York &®: d WHAT San, kindly heart an old aunt of shrewd tongue and The book is well illustrated with many duotone prints from photo graphs of Japan. (New York: Fred- erick A. Stokes Company; $1.75 net.) HE CLAMMER AND THE SUB- MARINE, by Wittram Joun Hop- KINS, continues the pleasant adventures of the Clammer and his Eve, now efh- ciently aided by Pukkie, a little son, and Tidda, a yet smaller daughter. A serene and delightful life it is, and not even the Clammer’s the war, minence of war, nor the final decision as to his part in can mar.its serenity and delight. The whimsical spirit.of the Clammer, already familiar throuzh the earlier volume to 1 that. gentleman gave the title, tinges the story and flashes again and again in bits such as this “When I was come out into the fresh breath of morning, and was walking over the dewy grass to my shed, of a sudden y soul was drenched with the sense of a great truth, even as my feet and legs were drenched with dew. And the truth tl ill work is’ useless It is but a of time that might be better spent in watching the sun come up through the mists of morning to rule over his king- dom; or in seeing him sink behind the bearded hills in the golden haze of eve- ning.” New figures go to make up the merry und the Clammer grou WwW hich gathers ar p f le and his family, notably Bobby Leverett and Elizabeth Radnor, into whose deli- cately sketched love-affair war and rumours of war introduce perplexing complications. (Boston and New York: Houghton Mifflin Company; $1.25 net.) INISHED, by H. Rmwer Haccarp, the most recent, but let us hope (de- spite its ominous title) not the last volume of the adventures of that most adventurous hero, Allen Quaterma This volume, which completes the tril- ogy dealing with fall of the Zulu Kingdom, finds the doughty Afri hunter and fighter in the réle of guide, friend to a young En- the philosopher, and glishman of noble in search of the traditional who has come cure tor wounded hearts—great adventures in the heart of Africa. The story maintains the true Quatermain level of stirring adven- i -d by magic and mystery is added who is rescued from a and a lover of even n bride of the i un and accompany him, under Quatermain’s protection, through wild lands and savage tribes back to civiliza- tion. (New York: L Green, and ‘ompany; $1.40 net.) ture, heighter 4 ry the beau- ngmans, H's LAST BOW, A ReminiscENcE OF SuHertock Hotmes, by ArTHUR Conan Doyte, like Rider Haggard’s “Finished,” brings back under ill-boding title a friend tested by two generations of readers. A preface by Sherlock Holmes’s old friend and biographer, Dr. John H. Watson, tells us that the great detective, “somewhat crippled by occasional attacks of rheumatism,” has in recent years divided his time between philosophy and agriculture on a small farm near East- bourne. With the coming of the war, however, he came from retirement to place his great skill at the service of his government, and proof that the skill has g in no way lessened by disuse appears in the story which gives title to the book. The seven other stories which go to make up the volume recount experiences of earlier date, though the “Adventure of the Bruce-Partington Plans” also deals with the foiling of a German spy | Ti crmahmst these stories the astute de- ee. Be al “yet? yor tective displays all his old acuteness I the unravelling of tangled skeins, and i uintained at that intensit 1 nme Y VOGUE R E A D the detective story the most completely enthralling of all nar- ratives. (New York: Georze I Company; $1.35 net a'e¥ , which makes SO RUNS THE WORLD HE DANISH WEST INDIES UN- DER COMPANY RULE (1671- 1754), by Warpemar WEsTERGAARD, Pu.D., gives two hundred and forty of its rather more than three hundred and fifty pages to less than a century’s h tory of our newly acquired little island group, and about t appendix, bibliography, and index. ‘Thé author is Assistant Professor of Hist at Pomona College, California, and hi big volume, introduced by Professor H Morse Stephens, Professor of History at ninety pages more the University of California, appears t be one of those instances of “intensive culture” in a minute field new! char acteristic of Americ an scn ylarsh I modelled upon German ideal D: Westergaard undertook his stt and wrote his book before we somewhat 1 cently resumed the negotiati in our acquisition of the islands, has added a judicious short chapter that might well have been thrice as long, set- ting forth the main facts in our fifty years of hankering after the Danish W Indies and Denmark’s oft baffled offer yf her tiny possessions. Incidentall; appears that we have paid just five time as much for the islands as they would have cost us in the early stages of ou: long discussion over the purchase. One may learn from the result of Dr. Wester- gaard’s conscientious labours a vast deal more about the history of these islands than most of us care to know, and doubt less the author’s elaboration of their early history prevented him from giving a more detailed account of the really significant incidents of our coquetting with Denmark since the days of Andrew Johnson Seward. Maps and illustrations lend significance and interest to the text (New York: The Macmillan Company $2.50 net.) [N A COLLEGE GARDEN, by Vis couNTESS WOLSELEY, ns promise by its title charming ini cences of peaceful walled or hedged er closures at Oxford or Cambridge, wit! grave dons, famous scholars, heads of houses, and delic ately clad ladies at tea It is not of university gardens, however, that the noble lady writes, but of life at her College of Gardening near Glynde in English Sussex, an old _ conservative county beloved of Mr. Kipling. In the gardens connected with this college the pupils, girls, and older women, learn the theory and practice of horticulture. The college was founded fifteen years ago, but its activities have been stimulated by the needs springing from the present war. In this stout volume of about two hundred and fifty pages, the author tells of the infiuences that led her to set up the col- lege and of the actual daily life at the institution. She gives us also glimpse of rural Sussex and lays bare the curious conservatism of the country folk. Some of the fun at the college, Christmas fun, tea-parties, and the like, is described, and one thus obtains a notion of the social life that goes to enliven the round of study and physical work. American readers will be a little shocked to learn from an authority quoted in the volume that a wage of less than five dollars a week was recently thought a_ proper minimum for an agricultural labourer’s family of five persons. It is noted that not many years ago there were agricul tural labourers receiving ten, eleven, and twelve shillings a week, and it that from fifteen to eighteen shillings a VW eek was a common wage before the Wal New York: Charles I Scribner’s Sons; $2 et ) appear hi

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Use It Instead of Linen Not a Fad but a Fashion Just as the smart woman adopts not the newest, but the best of the new fashions—because such garments look best first and last—so you will find the cleverest sport clothes made of Indian Head. Garments m of it have a ting atmosphere of style possible only with a well-made fabric. . ol P ae OF Indian Head helps the kiddies to look spick and span and Fy »4 In it they are clad for any call of fun or fashion hi Ready-to-wear clothes of Indian Head are shown in an the I If the label is sewn in the garment i ; 1 real Indian Head. TI Indian Head may be had in two finishes—soft or linen finish 1 made in four widths, 27, 33, 36, i 44 inches. Some stores sell Indian Head in the Wash Good at tment, others in the Domestics. The Linen t i usually sold in the Lin De ent. Sj f you find it, the name “tt must appear on the selvage, or y hh: Indian Head at all. Dr A RB ‘of Dept.1,Box 1206 nd mory, rowye & o. Boston, Mass. ling he that nit H ' ar pihte “wy ha? or e at my er eb \iv ota : : j * e in / 1 *aohe ; abe fi) ) Wie 2 Jb Diet yr ayyiit a | Send 6cents forasample of Indian Head ready to sew

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All fashionably gowned -- but all differen: = ~ In writing papers, as in dress, it is possible to inter- pret correct style, in different ways: all equally good | sift | ( ranes otinen ofan | |g THE CORRECT WRITING PAPER | | tion a Cl always expresses good taste, but Crane’s Linen Lawn ranges of from the simple whites sheet, through various fashionable shades, o varied with colored borders, or gold or silver edges, to the Marginal | ih Fold, which offers opportunity of adding the monogram in a new way. | EATON, CRANE & PIKE CO New York ms Pittsfield, Mass. ~~, _— s] aay me o4

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POU EIS BRET tissu silky, and absorbent. This tissue is used marring or January point de Paris lac in the ballad, worthy ON ie our artless occidental way we im- agine that our mission is to civilize th Oriental, whereas the truth is that he ynceals beneath a suave exterior extreme disconcerting ¢ WI t 4 mes to a matter I cle il I ess, ou standards would not be tolerated in Japar There even the coolie tak his bath at 4 temperature peri y c¢ cald ing, becau e he cor sider that only thu can he really cle inse hi KIT Th llowed by the rubbing in note a flexibility and firmne f skin and muscle that, with us, is the the bea pe ialist, not t i in It al 1 to i ess, all aut é agree tha the { ‘| he 4 ] i » the | € ng j . ire - n r ¢ | . y I e wv DE con r l n I ie l istr ley 1 than mot € > ¢ ior d I en cl nothing wW € re K One spe ho has 1 se ly of carir the c na l lox r I Cc it e nece ary prey a cha ng little se 1etal, enam 1 2 and finished ha ec e k and a iandle by wl it may be cz d. Each box, bottle 1 jar fi nugly into it wn cor ’ ent. As an 1 protec- ion, the it the € ted with a cushion of pink silk tor h the rest f the lining The case 4 a pad yr roll of specially prepared cleansing e made from a woven fabric, soft, or removing t stretching the skin These n Such a towel (shown folded over) with hand-scalloping at one end and at the other, 1s cert ainly, like the nice cake of soap of washing—or drying—the hands of the Pope HER DRESSING-TABLE cleansing tissues are inexpensive and to the rest of the treatment. , J : check e€niarging pore ge d- of sandalwood and spices of the Phis Ve te.—Readers of Vogue naimes of shops where dressing-table ar- , al deal for travelling. After a motor journey, it is well to egin by applying the cleansing cream + ; ; 1 ibérally to face, neck, arms, and hands. I} frees the pores of all foreign matter nd renders the skin soft and receptive \fter care- y removing the cream with the tissue entioned above, the skin tonic is ap- ed. This preparation is recommended r use instead of soap and water It use instead I ip and wa : CS : ¢ ‘Bauer ; ‘tect 1s to whiten, tone, and clear the kin, and it is particularly designed to s and unsightly bag- iness under the eyes. When the pores are thoroughly cleansed by the cream and tonic, the next step is to nourish and build up the cl Ihis is accomplished by patting in wl is said to brace and rejuvenate the lying muscic l The treasure box also c I 1 the ot a liquid f A ialities, This lotion is particularly bene- ficial for an oily skin If the fatigue of driving has made one pale, a bottle of liquid rou ze 1s eicome; and for those who use them, there is the ebrow brush or pencil. After a final dusting with a delicate face I ] is ready for anything. This | bought for $12. stion of jasmine, with an old-world hit Bar Fast delightful perfume $8 a bottl inquiring jor les are purchasable should enclose a stamped and addressed envelope for re- ly, ] and state page and date of this issue of Vogue. c¥e founda wary to keep my hair wavy—and at the same time ‘I’m able now to give more money and time to my Red Cross work. the Hairdresser, I use save money” Instead of going to I can put them on inan the time I’ve finished dressing, my hair is waved as prettily as though I had slaved an hour over it.” West Electric Hair Cur 1inute and then by lers work without heat, and so they can’t hurt your hair. ‘They are made of one piece of electrified steel and have no sharp edges wonderful. There are . They are really Over fifty million in daily use West Electric Hair Curl ers can not injure the hair in any way, and in spite of their extremely low price, they last a life-time or a new clean and sanitary. are guaranteed to one free. Always Card of 2—10c Card of 5~25c On sale everywhere at all good stores, or we will supply you direct if you will se nd your dealer’s name enclosing the price in either stamps or money. “Guide to Hairdressing at He order for a card of curlers. yme”’ free with every West Electric Hair Curler Company 159 Columbia Avenue turers of the famous WE Philadelphia, Pa. gST STOCKING SHIELDS

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g Hf FURS Superior Quality Reductions 20 % OE ele MM i a nn sn) nh 7.) aa gs "000 ' ee i Mt i ns) sh, ss Lee | V| | mm Large Assortment of Automobile Coats and Robes PT DT sa en) == s Fur and Fur Lined Coats Se All Occ: ui nT Ti in i an = C. G. Gunther’s Sons a 1) New York Lie a) Births NEW YO! November 19, to Mr. and Aldrich, a son Aldrich.—On Mrs. Winthrop Rogers.—On November 29, to Mr. and Mrs. David Ogden Rogers, a son Deaths Bloor.—On November 19, at Stonington, Bloor. yvember 26, at the Avia- Army, Alired J mnecticut, Fowler.—On N: tron Training Camp of the French it Pau, France, Eric Anderson Fowler, son of Mrs. Anderson Fowler Spencer.—On November 17, Mary Tailer Spencer, widow of the late Ambrose P. spencer. November 27, at On 2 Herman Vogel Park, Vogel. Tuxedo Worcester. Or November 17, George Henry W ester SHINGTON Young.) N VY ynogsement Engagements Fiske-Johnson.—Miss Mario: Virgis Fiske, daughter of Mr. Hale . Lieutenant Kenneth Clark J] nson, s of Mr. Elijah Johnsor Schirmer-Davenport. Schirmer, daughter of Mrs. Walter A ult, to Mr. Henry Daver n of Francis Henry Davenport BALTIMORI Daly-Sweeny.—Miss Louise P Daly, aughter of Mr. Owen Daly, to Captain J Sarsfield Sweeny, l S. R., son of Mrs. Charles Sweeny Margaret Maupin-Maupin.— Miss apman M Maupin, daughter of Mrs. Cl pin, to Mr. Rex Corbin Spencer Maupi1 PHILADELPHIA Neilson-Madeira.—Miss Sarah ( N son, daughter ot Lewis Neils to Lieutenant Crawford ( Madeira, son of Mr. Louis ( Madeira. SAINT PAUI aa Garfield.— Miss Edwina Glenn, ughter of Major ee Edwin A. F Glenn, U. S. A., to Captain James Abram on eld, U. S. N. A, cena Mr. James R. eld Hill-Lindley.—Miss Clara Ann Hill, l hter of Mrs. James Jerome Hill, to Whitney - Countryman. Miss I s King Whitney, daught f Mr. Frank Irving Whitney, to Lieutenant = Countryman i eaddadings Vv YOR Drury - Fuller.—On November the Briarcliff ¢ ongregation al Chur ain Ge Chipman Drury, of yal ( ian Dragoons, son of the : n ! general C. B. Drury, and Miss l'uller, daughter ot Mrs. Williamson V Fuller Filley-Pyne.—On December 15, Lieuten- int-Colonel Oliver Dwight Filley, and Miss Mary Pyne, daughter of Mr. Percy Pyne VOGUE y T Gilbert- Wyeth. On December 1, in Saint Bartholomew's Church, Mr. Cass Gilbert, junior, son of Mr. Cass Gilbert, and Miss i.lizabeth Jarvis Wyeth, daughter of Mrs Stephen G. Williams. E Mr Hubbard-Flint.—On November 20, James Lanman Hubbard, son of Mr Charles Hubbard, and Miss Louise Eliot Flint, daughter of Mr. George Eliot bilint. On November 28, in Saint James-Krech. Church, Mr. Oliver Burr Bartholomew's - James, son of Dr. Walter B. James, and Miss Angeline J. Krech, daughter of Mr Alvin W. Krech. Kittredge-Livingston. in the chantry of Grace Church, nt Henry ( rocker Kittredge, son of Pro George L. Kittredge, and Miss Ger Channing Livingston, daughter of Mr. James Duane Livingston November 28 Lieuten On fessor trude On November 26, in Osborn-La Farge. the chantry of Grace Church, Lieutenant William Henry Osborn, son of Mr. Wil- im Church Osborn, and Miss Margaret G. La Farge, daughter of Mr. C. Grant La Farge Parsons-Mcwry.—On December 22, in e Naval Cl t t apel, Ann ae lis, Ensign Thomas ( Parson son of Mr Thomas Pa ns, an Janet owry, daughter oi Mt Allan M L: Mowry Post- Gihert. On November 28, in the ( irch of tl carnation, Mr. Charles M Post, Miss Julia S. Gi Ir. Cass Gilbert. _Banchaw « Whitlock.—On N mber 24, vary Epis« pe. Church, Captain A re i Re nshaw, igineers, | Ss. N A.. son of Mr lees 1 H. Renshaw ! Miss Jeannette Emmet Whitlock 1ug ter of Mrs. Bache cEvers W h _Sawyer- Motley.—On Decem! 8. in t chantry of Saint Thor *s ( Bae tenant Homer E. Sawyer, j cr. U.S. R r sor f Mr. Home and Kathryn Motley, daughter of Mr. W Harry Motley. _Woodruff-De Witt.—On December 1, at t home of the bride’s parents, Mr. Don ld Jaffray Woodruff, » ar Miss Barbara A. De Mr. Edward De Witt. BALTIMORE Chubb- fiers On November 27, in the chapel of the Emmanuel Pre testant ae ul Church, Mr. Charles F. ¢ » son of Mrs Archibald Lamont Miss Mary Clare Carroll All of Mr. Talbot J. All bert Chu bb, and pert, daughter Stanton - Beacham. On Novem Ensign Otis Cook Stant U. S. N.. x of Mr. James E. Stanton, pms r, and Miss Priscilla Beacham, daughter of Mrs. | Broughton Bea ham BOSTON Armstrong-Taylor.—On November 27, in Lieutenant i Trinity Church, Armstrong, U. S ( Armstrong, daughter of Mr (On Romain naine, and I ighter of Mr. rederi Blake Romaine- Holder. gn Ralph Benjamin ouis Tyson Ror ride r, dat 3 if r. November 27 En- PHILADELPHIA Packard - Denckla. — On Noven ieutenant J. Francis R. Packard, Miss Mary T. Denckla, daughter of Mr Hermann A. Denckla. PROVIDENCE October 27, in Munson, son 1 Miss Fran- Di Mrs in n Munson-Hunter. — On Paris, France, Mr. Curtis B obert H. Munson, anc ces Hunter, daughter f Hunter WASHINGTON December ae Adams - Gracie.—On J Mr. Dunbar B Saint Thomas’s Church, Adams, son of Mr. John Dunbar Adams and Miss Edith Temple Gracie, d hte of Mrs. Archibald Graci r— ‘ce

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e New KI > SELKAR. 4 Passenger Sedane HE delightful intimacy of its personal comforts—the little niceties of appointment and re- finement—make it decidedly a woman’s car. howing ton Due to the exclusive Kissel construction, it possesses many desirable features, including the detachable ALL-YEAR Top, in which all side windows can be lowered or raised. The roomy tonneau, wide seats, aisle and doors are particularly convenient. The uphol- stery is in fine leathers or exclusive motor weaves. The ALL-YEAR Top 1s built in, not on, and is entirely removable. She “Hundred Poin Ctx For over a year this car of a Hundred Quality Features has proven worthy of the Kissel reputation for excellence in chassis construction, including the sturdy Kissel-built power-plant. See your Kissel dealer who is booking orders for an early delivery. Send for ALL-YEAR Car literature Kissel Motor Car Co., Hartford, Wis., U.S. A. New Semi-Victoria Style Summer Top is made of “Par tasote,”” with four plate glass ‘‘Port ” 10!1es Easy to get in and out through unusually wide doors. Perfect blending of ALL-YEAR Top and Body— no visible fastenings or attachments—no rattles or draughts

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VOGUE BY APPOINTMENT TO THEIR MAJESTIES THE KING AND QUEEN CRICHTON BROS. of London GOLDSMITHS and SILVERSMITHS In New York: 636, Fifth Avenue In Chicago: 622, S. Michigan Avenue in London: 22, Olid Bond Street HU LA I III | IN I j | I —— l | ==| A CHARMING OLD SILVER URN STANDING FOURTEEN AND ONE-QUARTER INCHES HIGH, MADE IN LONDON IN 1792 BY JOHN ROBINS. THE FORM OF THE URN BEING OVAL. AND NOT ROUND, GREATLY ADDS TO THE DELICACY OF ITS LINES. GaaAQ" THESE HALL MARKS APPEAR ON THE URN LD ENGLISH SILVER of the purest design— rare examples of the work of the artist silver- smiths of the Georgian and Queen Anne periods— being free of duty is sold in the New York and Chicago Galleries at London prices. TEA and COF- FEE SERVICES, Vegetable Dishes, Salt Cellars, Platters, Candelabra, Sugar Castors and other interesting and useful objects. CRICHTON London-made REPRODUCTIONS of OLD ENGLISH SIL- VER show all the exquisite handwork of the originals—single pieces or complete services. All goods purchased of Crichton Bros. are delivered express charges prepaid throughout the United States. ccc ccc ccc Hu Il Seco oT til

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Page 74

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for escaping the limitations imposed by the ory panels has been found by Mira Edgerly in a the | portrait of Mrs. William f

j : A R T , ( Me page 68) p t f Gener ( than that There Byng v tl ‘Mi Helen ! eg [ r Amer- Moran as Da icate erpr e Neild g. Ar - tatl f the 1 i kee $ me- \ \ l and a htfu I e ¢ I an the trait me! Mir k Wil De I AY 1 or rds well with the two | | 1 and n- Mor 1s g ral \r t i ther m is ap] in f ! g the I Kir I 2 Rem- Amer g Cc. it t 1 graci- \I pre- ] cor I Kimba nt i t ile it Isq., C \ nd 1, con- ohana ay + P en By ' ted mal I Kim- A G V 4 r of l, Esq. l f ina ge among Durit J {G i ] Sold ” a ta 1 Wil inu L cle ¢ ntrates ect r 4 L 3 on knitting, | D ] Kinne who places ht) -» C he e of the dance, show- pr 1 Genée”—a ve 1k I impre } sirds of 1rious were the ibject « prints D Print 1 | Ir Benson, for what collection of luring De t Brooklyn Soci \ an etching would complete Etcher ide econd annual ap- it Benson masterly 1 for carance he Pr R I It Br k- Ch Ha sam ! ve 1 hi re iccom- 1 Mu f Fine Art tified | nt newly cl 1 field by eXIst¢ exnl I no e Col joining of two or

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Ee | —a rest—and an evening of pleasing diversion. That’s winter here : out of doors. At home your intimates shiver and wintry winds ~ ; 7 blow sleet, snow and rain against the window panes.

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TYLE—charm—distinction — ’ fairly radiate from these blithely girlish wash-togs. Awidevariety of tailored styles in attractive color combinations dresses, smocks and middies for the tot to her mother. See Jack l'ar Togs at your dealer’s—you can’t resist them. ; You'll k NOC then bn this py ; } ; ™ ATO US AO OPH ; label. Look for it. o Write for Jack Tar Style Book and menticn your dealer’s name. Address Dept. A4 THE STROUSE-BAER CO., BALTIMORE, MD. dmirably acted The reputati n f the héatre du Vieux-Colombier has not suf- fered a sea-change from its transmigra- tion overseas YVETTE GUILBERT The new Théatre du Vieux-Colombier, with its mediaeval atmosphere, affords an appropriate setting for the repeated ap- pearances of the finest interpretative ar- tist in the world,— Yvette Guilbert. In her group of programmes, Madame Guilbert includes many of those well- remembered songs and recitations that have endeared her to the public in the past; but her one new feature, for the present season, is especially noteworthy. This is a rendering of a long and tragic passage from “Les Soliloques des Pauvres” of Jehan Rictus Jehan Rictus is a great poet and a great man. His work, thus far, has been neglected in America, for the reason that he writes in the slang of the day-iabourer, —a jargon that is difficult to under- stand, even for Americans who have been schooled in France. ‘The present c mentator—though nurtured in the Quar- tier Latin and made familiar with the argot of the cabarets a score of years ago—finds it very difficult to decipher from the printed page the language of this poet who speaks the speech of the despised and the rejected.—that “sub- merged tenth” of the total public, of whose existence the illed “upper classes” are seldom so much as reminded Jehan Rictu He has live d among ther 1, W rked among them, suffered with them. He interprets their otherwise uncelebrated life in a racy dialect that is c mp he language of our own Walt Whitman. In his own country, Rictus is more frequent ly compared by critics with Francois Vil- lon, the companion and poet of the cla yf rogues and vagabonds. He has also been called—not, by critically—the Tolstoi of les faubour Many of his poems—though | violent in language—are so ing in their tragic and pathe that they rouse the auditor to instant eagerness for a revolutionary reformation of the world. His appeal to the s thetic instincts is acute and irresisti and this appeal is rendered still m poignant by the potent intermediary art of Madame Yvette Guilbert. is an apostle of the po arabie with THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PLAYERS An essential feature of the project of The Washington Square Players is the discovery and the encouragement of new und unknown authors; and this feature distinguishes their undertaking from that of the Théatre du Vieux-Colombier. M Copeau is contented to exhibit an ade- quate performance of any great play of the past; but these adventurers would prefer to set forth a passable performance of some new composition that offers in- be f dications of some greatness still to achieved. It is a pleasant privilege o state that the current programme of The Washing- n Square Players is the best that they uve offered in their three years of ex- tence: and this pleasure is increased b the accidental circumstance that all four items on the current bill were composed by American authors, heretofore unheard from in the strait and narrow world of the “commercial theatre.” VOGL E THE STAGE pa {0 The piece de résistance is “The Girl in the Coffin,’ by Theodore Dreiser— in impressive play which depicts a tragic crisis in the lives of two labour leaders, a crisis in which “duty and inclination”— to quote the words of Robert Louis Stev enson—‘“come nobly to the grapple.” Next in interest is “Neighbors,” by Zona Gale—a sympathetic study of local and familiar characters——much better acted than in the recent exhibition offered in New York by the Wisconsin Players “The Critic’s Comedy,”—a_ keen sar- donic satire by Samuel Kaplan, a teacher at the University of Chicago—adds a touch of mordant wit to the progress of the programme; and the final item sends the public home in a mood that is ap- propriately playful. This is a Pantomime Grotesque, entitled “Yum Chapab,” found ed on Maya legends some three thousand years old and prepared by J. Garcia Pir ental and Beatrice de Holthoir “THE GIPSY TRAIL” young—unquestionably and t so rare, perhaps, in It it 1s rather rare in art pleased to doff his hat in welcome t bert Housum, the author of “The rail.” This play is beautiful in ys; but the ne t it hat it flaunt ] about it 1s that it Maunts al ner of sheer y t as engeable fi yn — not without tears —otf t C rave days when we were twenty-one.” Mr. Housum, we are told, i VST I n ‘leveland; newspaper DY no means rea forth in that eager, youthful, and roman tic mood that can never be re aptured Iter an ambitious aut! I I sed De 1 . J eae . nd the hectic period of his apprentice hip. S12 la jeunesse savait; sila vieillesse | | 1 pouval :—these are perhaps the sad- dest (and most forlornly lovely) words that were ever registered by tongue or pen. ‘This play is great good f appeals to youth and to that hetic memory which has not ye en utterly the zest and tang of y ness t ‘The Gipsy Trail” is excellently act- ed and beautifully staged. Once again, it is a privilege to bow obeisance to Mr. Arthur Hopkins, who is coming more and more to be regarded as “the white hope” of the American stage. The casting, the stage-direction, the scenery, the lighting, —all these delicate appurtenances to the final fabric—are handled with a taste nd tact that are unexceptionable. The author of this youthful, but unusually charming, comedy should thank his lucky stars for the laudable production that has carried his composition to an unassail: iccess in the midst of a season of many lures,

Page 77

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VOGUE MAKERS O F MUSIC

stone may measure all music a musical appreciation. The cri easily as the possessor of a tape line may would hotly deny this, but we laymen measure cloth. And there are, among the know it is true. elect, any number of such mystic stones. Yet, unsatisfactory as all these stand- Besides, to be frank, the laymen may ards are, there is a better and a worse, Ic

yossess quite as many, equall clusive in some sense, nusic. ‘aguely. people I juit ; ually exclusi I in 1 \ ly I In bitter reaction against the forma know that they mean something by the and the technical schools, ther

re are those words. Some music is of such a sort as who would test all music according to its to bring a greater quantity and a finer emotional power. “What music expresses,” quality of pleasure to the listener than they say, “is all that counts.” In inten- other music. Some music will more rich- tion they seem to say, with Baudelaire ly repay the attention of those who have

bed ] . +h ] * ; ] rhe Be drunk; with wine, with love or with felt deeply, thought “d music, but be drunk.” But is “expres- clearly. Let us say ie sion” all that “c in music There in proportion as it is something childlike in the attitude. tior Each may bring what a nuisance is what he has, and al uest who knows not the irn, ior a f Baudelaire’s

ec es more mus But, ti world is not, li ar ; ybliged to elect nitely and irre of the crude met l'astes ma gO 2 I It 1S ail r have no means o f their enjoyment.

crowd who acclaimec greatest composer in the worid

years ago, scorning him to-day as a sen- tet, and his two great symphonies repay timental “parlour” tainer. In re the closest attention of the listener by the alitv, the test reduces itself to nonsense. splendid impressiveness of their themes, = * ° qe9 . b .9 . 99° — . p The music which is capable of polling 7 vigour of the greatest nu of votes is great 1 variously respect to its capacity to poll votes; ex- s. Among cellence is something else. Some, indeed, harmonic

would revise the election laws by insist- orchestra has recently selecte two, ing that the greatness of a work is not Henry F. Gilbert and George W. Chad- ; : ( to be determined by its popularity at any wick, for especial honour. The former, given moment, but by its « . ' I ntinued hold in his Prelude to Synge’s ipon people generation after generation. Sea,” showed ial 1 Sea, at | im Yet this spreads the human test rather keen feeling

nental musical values, thinly. And it would ignore the occa- which will doubtless be confirmed when sional greatness of a composer like De- his Ballet is danced later in the season bussy, who will | i blivion at the Metropolitan. Mr. Chadwick has fifty years hn is made of his symphonic poem, “Tam now. O’Shanter,” a genial descriptive piece, intriguing to the r

e

oO ¢ on ¢ Another interpretation of the human most intrig fancy.

a test would, while rejecting equally the formal he schnical. and the emotional 7 oP > te 4 — » ormal, the technical, an the emotiona MUSIC THAT IS TRULY FINE standards, reject likewise the suffrage of the crowd and give musical judgments If ever layman should become puzzled into the sole keeping of the “best nur- i tured,”—those whose taste | cialized by intensive tra evaluation of the art. ’ becomes pope, and thi some for the critic. musical judgments are not so simply ar- rived at. 1 “nurturing” of evenly balanced appreciation is not a matter of mere cumulative aesthetic experience itself exch to the The critic might be embittered by debt ey - h new and experimental music, uld return to those adn le and ndable recitals which occur so fre- itly in New York and the other large and yet play so small a part in 1 ip of the town. Let him sionless,

‘s very unwhol c ver

this is vl Besides, ex cathe ira old music—p tonal arrangement—to des Instruments An-

i -d sound which | oh ~=Bonnet or an unhappy home life, and, if he were, evokes from his organ in it would assuredly affect the temper of (Continued on page 76)

is series of

m—~ > rr.

Page 79

Few ~~ rer January 15 LDS harker Pays doilet “atin. 2, ESTABLISHED 1868 ROSALINE Cannot be detected, gives the face and nails a delicate rose tint that is truly beautiful. ROSALINE is not affected by perspiration or d splaced by bathing. Jars, 25 cents. DIAMOND NAIL ENAMEL In powder or cake fort Fr ym grit, producing an immediate and ‘teat ing polish. Its delicate rose tint will not discolor the skin or cuticular folk of the nails. Diamond shape box, 25 cents. Bleaches and cleans the nails, re moves ink, hosiery and glove stains from the skin; guaranteed harmless. Jottles, 50 cents LUSTROLA A new finger nail paste. Gives a brilliant and unequalled polish. Lustre is not affected by water Easy and economical to us¢ ars, 50 cent CREAM VAN OLA softening and g skin. Fee i on 1 nour ion 2 Preserves a be tiful comple restores a faded one. Jars, 2 ents GLORA LILY LOTION An n nd wl ns the Be: ln mov Ss i ( redness; cure I gn, dry sk n and will not irritate the st sensitive skin; imparts a ( g sensation with fragrant perfur 4 oz bottles, cents Sold by Dealers everywhere, or sent direct on receipt of price nd 10% extra for stag Send stamp for illustrated catalogue ¢ 8 DR. J. PARKER PRAY CO. Sole Manufacturers and Proprietors 10 and 12 East 23rd St., New York strain of a busy winter begins to tell on a woman's appearance and if the “tired look”’ is not to be- come permanent, it should be smoothed away. Nothing ac- complishes this so effectively as the famous Strapping Muscle Treatments originated by Mrs. Adair. If you cannot come to her Salon, where the treatments are administered by experts trained in her London establishment, you can successfully follow the same methods in your own home with the specialized RITE Mrs. Adair concerning GANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL—In- your complexion problems and a for Tr lines, hollows — fe flaccid tissues t firms sagging muscles she will be delighted to advise fills out wrinkies and makes the face mar- you what preparations are best vellously younger. $l, suited to your needs and how to use ‘ ‘ them, also sending you her instruc- GANESH wares. onaas rr. tive Lecture Book. The followin 2 CORES Ce Se SEC NODE ORS Sve owing it a satiny texture. Makes powder adhere ae Boy invaluable for daily Pink, cream, white. $1.50. use, will be shipped prepaid on re- f a ceipt of cheque or money order. out and firming neck and bust. $1.25, $2.25 GANESH CHIN STRAP—Reduces dou ble chin, keeps muscles from sagging and i the mouth closed during slee; $5 and $6.50. 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Piranar Dita 557 Fifth Avenue, “aa York 92 New Bond Street, London, West 5 Rue Cambon, Paris In times of stress it becomes more im- portant than ever that every dollar spent should bring the maximum returr A cheap article is never anything but cheap, and by its very nature thwarts the purpose of its purchaser Danersk Furniture is intended to embody the greatest individuality in proportion to its cost that it is possible to obtain Each piece is finished for you, ¢ at no greater cost than were you to from a regular furniture store ar made for a _ thousand others > ARE THE MAKERS, that is the reason Consultation and advice regarding single rooms or entire houses and apartments without obligation Send us your plans and we will make recommendations The Danersk Method makes quick de liveries of Special pieces possible Do Not Fail to Call When You Arein New York Send for valuable Catalog “‘B-1"’ or call at Exhibition Rooms ERSKINE-DANFORTH CORPORATION 2 West 47th Street NEW YORK First Door West of Fifth Avenue, 4th Floor Are Your Hands Older Than Your Face? GRISE 1 SPECIALTIES, co. SS “The Friend ¢ eZ LOWELL; MASS. Middle-age @ STIMULATING POMADE FOR AGING HANDS. Postpaid $2.00 Dept.a. Booklet Listerine will often a SOC A betel bestest hatete! and soreness of the dob aor: ham tere. check an bales bedi sel amare) fe! As agreeable as it is effective LISTERINE THE SAFE ANTISEPTIC Manufactured y Lambert i rina Co. St. Louis, Mo., U.S.A. CREAM SMOOTHOUT —It Velvetizes the Skin Like a dash of invigorating surf on a languid Sum- mer’s day is the cooling, soothing touch of my SMOOTHOUT Cream to the muscles and tissues of the tired face. SMOOTHOUT Cream is almost magical in its power to restore and preserve the youthful freshness of skin texture by refining the pores and smoothing out little wrinkles. Every woman _ needs SMOOTHOUT. It vel- vetizes the skin and is astringent enough to be an excellent foundation for powder. The best stores everywhere sell Lillian Russell’s Smoothout Cream Medium size, $1.50; double size, $2.50. If your dealer doesn’t, write me direct Lillian Russell, 2170F Broadway, New York New York Near Fifth Ave. The Children’s Shop 10 to 15% REDUCTION | Specials in Infants’ Nursery Furniture Our Reed Crib gives comfort and rest to in fants, andlends attractiveness to the nursery room. They are never out of place, From manufacturer direct to you Here is a money saving oppor- tunity. Size 21 x 42. Sale price......... Usual price $40.50 $37.50 Size 24 x 42. Sale price.........- ‘ Usual price 49 50 45.50 Size 24 x 48. Sale price...... Usual price $59.50 Without the Dresden raised roses 5% dis- count In any color. Mattress made to or- der, prices according to quality of hair used A real necessity for every modern nursery room :— An IDEAL or Wooden Infants’ reed wardrobe, easy to move from place to place—lIt is prac- tical in every nursery room. Here is your op- portunity to get one direct from manufacturer at an unusually low price: Our Ideal Wardrobe. 5 or 6 drawers and wardrobe compartments with adjustable hanger, regular = $55.50. Sale price......++++- $49.50 : Made in any color. 5% Giscount without \E Dresden raised roses Catalogue mailed on request NEW DEPARTMENT. Dresses made to order up to and in- jim cluding 10.years.

Page 80

VOGUI MUSIC The Braidet and wk n a foundation of dull finished satin becoming, and altogether charming for every occasion as a black gown—when it’s a Blackshire! Artistic harmony of style, line, and trimming, makes each Blackshire creation individual and effective. Let us tell you our fashion secret in The Blackshire Style Book—sent free upon request. At all best shops. THE HOUSE OF BLACK 112-114-116 Madison Avenue NEW YORK CITY a clever combination of sheer silk marquise No costume in the world is so distingué, so universally recitals at the Hotel Astor under the pices of the French-American Asso n Musical Art; to the Beeth- en \ Ss tas which Har ld Bauer Vion and Jacques Thil baud have been playing at the Punch and Judy Theatre; to the uncanny loveliness that breathes in the playing of the Flonzaley Quartet; to the finely conceived interpretations which David and Clara Mannes give two or three times each season in their recitals for violin and piano. Let him, with a mental reservation, listen to Leopold Godowsky playing any of that music which dates from before the death of Haydn. He will, if he be truly atten- tive, soon pierce beneath the superfici I thunders of Godowsky’s manner and perceive the conscientious artist beneath, the artist who se loyalty is to the integ- rity of the music as written, of the tones in just relation, one to another. But he will have his a aeotiing revelation in the playing of Jascha Hei- fetz, who has al lready given his third re- cital in Carnegie Hall to huge audiences and has appe are ol as soloist with the large orchestras of New York. THE GREAT JASCHA HEIFETZ Of Mr. Jascha Heif among great executant artists, it can be said that he is completely and utter! free from mannerism. He comes on to the stage as casually as one might walk into one’s house and proceeds as quickl as may be to his business of music-mak- ing. Then he plays; and it is such play- ing as none but Mr. Kreisler and Mr Ysaye can match. It is playin arouses a mad enthusiasm of response in the audience, an applause which is ac knowledged by the artist with the merest well-manr ered nod. And yet—here is the mystery—it is playing st con ipletels veld of “expressi ion.” It m ight almost be said that “ does nothing more than play the notes as they are written. But his matchless technique enables him t play them exactly and truly, with never the hair’s breadth deviation in the tone or the slightest flurry over a Herculean dificulty in fingering. And this is enough. Another violinist, not quite so highly perfected, may hide his fault with some superficial brilliance which is to be learned for the asking at any conserva- tory; and he thus diverts the hearer’s attention from the music to the musician But, unless he be as great as the com- poser whose music he 1s playing, he can- not the *reby do aught but lessen the de- gree in which that attention is repaid Mr. Heifetz, because his technique is, humanly speaking, flawless, is able to let the music sound through him. He is as impersonal as the instrument upon which he plays. And, as a reward for this abne- gation, he has been received as no arti for years has been received in this coun- try. The pushers and the intrizuers verily have their reward, but it is the meek who inherit the earth. Yet, sensational as has been Mr. Hei- fetz’s modest appearance, the American public has been led to expect something comparable to him in the person of Max Rosen, another of Leopold Auer’s pupils, who has played in Europe wherever war conditions would allow and has been accepted as an equal. Mr. Rosen was born in New York, but he is returning, young as he is, with an_ established European reputation. PERSONALITY IN MUSIC Following the analogy of Mr. Heifetz, we might divide pianists into those who concentrate the attention of the listener upon the music and those who divert it to themselves. Only a few, like Mr. Paderewski and Miss Leginska, succeed in maintaining highly dramatized per- sonalities before the public and still plac- z their music before their hearers in its true values. They do indeed heighten effect; but they do not usually falsify re- lations. Of those who do not resort t “personality” at all, Mr. Gabrilowitech one of the foremost. All that the mu contains is sure to shine with undimin- ished brilliance through his playing Even the Scriabine Fifth Sonata, a sen- sationally novel and perhaps rmsd over rated work of ultra-modern impressior ism, gained an eloquence at his Carneg Hall recital which impassioned eteeaes tation” could never have imparted to it Charles Antho ny, who ayes a recital « French — aes ic in the newly opened Greer wich Village Theatre, wisely followed the same mathod. His playing is commend able for its honest sufficiency. On the other hand, Moses Boguslawski, who has recently appeared in severai recitals, re lies far too much on superficial brilli and in particular upon excessive rapidit of tempo. Wynne Pyle is a most engag ing pianist in her minor pieces, but shoul be wise enough not to attempt things o such peculiar difficulty as the Schumann cata and the Ch ypin Pol ise 2 e noted that when a piani unequal to a work, he invz doubtless unconsciously) seeks to cover up his faults with an unwar- ranted use of the damper pedal. So it is a trusty rule, by no means applicab! Miss Pyle’s case alone, tha t wher there is too ha pedal there is too litt pianism. Yolando Méro, likewise, tend to blur her rapid and more heavi coloured music, although in soft and ceful passages she plays exquisitel} rthur Friedheim, friend and pupil of Liszt, is in a somewhat different Pp I iis style is indifferently good, according to the taste of to-day, but his special ilue is that he represents with some authority the accepted Sty le of yester- And yesterday, the yesterday of ns did not was a time when musicia so clear a dis tinct n nd its pres ntation. n is felt to live = a heard tone; the work was the servant of the performer So if Mr. Friedheim seems to assert him- self overmuch, and withal without im- parting to his music either the emotion or the finesse which modern taste de- t be remembered that is ably exemplifying the ideals of our musical grandfathers ea) Cal Pranaracne;rs, The desire to dramatize one’s per- sonality has, of course, burned m ardently in the operatic breast than in any other, and has consequently tended to obfuscate taste. Th yas Chalme among the newcomers to the Metr tan, has been c sommes free from th lesi As he sings, as Valentine in “Faust,” for example, he is first the ad- f calist, the conscientious artist, and along with it Gounod’s Valentine to the extent of his not inconsiderable his- trionic talents, but he is never aggres- sively Thomas Chalmers. And Mabel Garrison, though coloratura singers have traditionally been accorded all imagin- able privileges and indulgences, is li wise the straightforwar rd artist. When she sang the famous aria from Strauss’s “Ariadne auf Naxos” (perhaps the m difficult in all music), with the Symphon} Society of New York the other day, her friends must have trembled. 3ut sl came through the ordeal with notable success, singing, if not with the flawless purity of the irreproachable Frieda Hem- pel, still with warmth, taste, and full mastery of the amazing technical difficul- ties of the piece. After all, the just appreciation of music and musicians is not so different from the appreciation of one’s friends Human kindliness and an open- -hearted readiness to enjoy are among the fore- most of the qualifications. It is wisdon rather than know ledge that discovers the real treasures of music.

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January 1 PHIPPS-MUSET Smart , silk straw brim and patent leather crown, Youthful i > é Sst ms : silk straw trimming. Bewitching : 7 Very spirited model, for rain or shine. PHIPPS HATS are famed for their style and known by this label Suits and Dresses for PHIPPS, Inc . T ana Southern Wear 29-37 WEST 38th STREET, NEW YORK CITY Featuce the Slim Silhouette Graceful styles devel- oped in exclusive, de- Problem: lightful tones of rose, old blue, jade, gray, How Can I Sell My House? khaki, apricot, Wis- meee ‘~_ or : ¢ Advertise it in the House & Garden Real Estate Department. Our columns taria. Phe use sa are followed continually by prospective pu irchasers and tenants and by brokers who are lo oki ng for a place to meet the requirements of various client worsted yarn gives to } = S Get in touch with the Manager of the Real Estate Department either by ] ll will be very glad to supply you with full GOLFLEX knitted ‘phone, letter or personal call He ] | is d rtment. information regarding this depar fabrics their distinc- Buy Your Home NOW tive silvery bloom. A mn ¢ . More real estate bargains are being offered now than ever before. To find Appropriate tor a the kind of property you want, communicate with the Real Estate Service active ar Department of House & Garden We are in constant touch with real estate - tive, outdoor wea brokers who specialize in selected sections throughout the country. Men who in all climates at all can find you the kind of property you want if it is obtainable seasons. lanag f Real Estate Department your favorite tore does nor | HOUSE & GARDEN carry Golflex, write the name of the n re s ¢ le > > J r a ge Ae 19 West 44th Street New York City, N. Y CREPE Prices surprisingly : ; For Southern Climes— moderate ————. Lovely frocks for morning . a la ™ , , - wear— WILKIN & ADLER ee a , = : Smart suits and skirts for . La | “THE SLIPPON” « nd sportswear— 11 E. 26th St., New York - ws ; ‘hol ’ arming suits for afternoon Exclusively Wholesale “THE IMPORT SPECIAL” tea H : N t ‘ah -» THE USUAL §2.50 KIND Informal evening gowns. air- e A) om f Featured by the best shops SS a — . a $1.00 doz. i -rvc B Look for the in every city : : = , -Gio” label. It as- 6 ” cap shape tiny ‘con The Slippon Ae é 3 aan “The Im ort S ecial” shape, sures genuineness made and patented in France p Ye e imp P anall By the vard—Look for the Self adjusting and invisible, is : Ss ¢ | over net with round front c . straight back in_ close name ‘MCON-GiO on the sel- with hand meshed edge, grad ze ee »sh and full size. Quality vage. uated to need but a hair-pin /\ or two for entire net best obtainable We are sole agents in America for these French made hair-nets. jae Co : light or dark ash blonde; light or dark -~W Y Oo R K slack, all shades of brown, light or dark auburn; blonde. Postpaid anywhere. Every net guaranteed. r grey hair nets in “Import Special” or “Slippon” cap shape, $1.50 a dozen aie all Mention color and shape when ordering. ee Oe ‘‘Pierrette for Sheerwear IMPORTERS GEORGE ALLEN, Inc. Established 1829 “Fairway” for Sportswear Rue Bleue 3, Paris 1214 Chestnut Street, Phila., Pa.

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VOGUE

Wy: \) y} SS \ We \ J IZx J) » NY TV) CONSERVATION

\ NY) Zs WN nN ] | i 1 ] Long hour f working in the cold make comforts of this sort doubly wel-on Canvas gloves are a grateful change when one does @ great deal of driving; from Anderson, Anderson, . and Anderson or the little men : e FOR THE WOMAN WAR WORKER \ T J i | & (Continued from page 49) American women have become pro- into a strap for parcels and strung over . TT ~ ee - ; : at - WASH SU ITS and ficient in many branches of the service the shoulders on the march. This coat is . “pe ; : ; already. In the beginning, women natu- shown in the lower middle of page 49. rally turned to nursing and the various \ real slicker, as shown in the sketch RO MPERS activities of the Red Cross. In France at the lower left on page 49, is part of they have gone about the business of re- the service woman’s equipment This constructing towns and replacing forests one, with its little leather bands of trim- meet all the require- with such vim and energy that the most ming to match the oilskin, and round discouraged Frenchwoman has again dark buttons to set it off, is most deco- ments of present- taken heart; at home they have become rative. The becomingness of the practi- We munition workers, they have taken cal rain hat depends on the state of mind Ys MKD : : time conditions— charge of age epee and they have be- ol the wearer and on how she sees fi » LAY) come amazingly successful farmers. From _ put it on. re, rT fe “aagrNe ese wom ve cooper MOI, No sacrifice of the the start these women have cooperated . CZ! heartily in the conservation of food and ADAPTATIONS OF MENS CLOTHES by 43) i in a general cutting down of household 1 \9) 7) SS 51r e, worth- 2 gig ee : Beare _ . . Cs J) t 4 des a ' Oo expenses, The service suit shown at the upper - E : Of whi The past three years of war have given right on page 49 is one of the most prac- LAD > past tn ce yeal I war lave g1ve l righ n page 49 1 1e OF the m t pra YT = yyy hile factors. women a new interpretation of utility, tical types. It is made of khaki coloured SS Yj S and evidently the designers of the new uniform material and its pockets alone service clothes have realized this and would recommend it to any woman ' kept uppermost in their minds the one None of the trimness of the tailor-made rd, “y icality.” As a result, they for town is left out of this service suit for ° have prod iced clothes which are strictly the woman in the field. With it, high _* ust the same in tailored, cut on severe lines, and built laced boots are worn. if for service, but which are neverthel One of the most ingenious garment every way, as undeniably good looking. made for the women’s service depart- 7: nent is a coat for the wom: oO must always —Tailored ment . coat | ie woman wh TO PROTECT THE WAR WORKER ride in all weather. This coat, shown at - — dis: ieee talk al is anak eK le ; yy inside and out — — ' ba gtk, « ct aicceemale acentaiek da silane '¢ i’ NS y)}) L é o ‘ ‘ A good example f how attractive the ol waterprool materia in the regulation I= LY - 7)) , Perfect in fit,. ordinary rain-coat and cap may be made_ khaki colour, and the secret of its suc- AZ,\4 FY q . " . ~ > \ boot is shown at the right. The glove AVA ' os : Ss —, are of stout suede of a reddish brown I> OS a rh ane Mnats ts AR 4 SH) r ur; rom Gregg 0 om , AS , 7 Ae, A. > Vacd Ce

( ‘

AWS WW Ny \k ( AS = ARS = RS aS ( We y i - 23 Wj ae

SS ve AL iG (( Y WW \Y \ “i wey EWG f] NS \ OR v

Yo @ \S

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ud

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A pair of pull-on leather and canvas boots are invaluable for the woman who is doing « man’s job at or near the front. Fleece-lined rubber gloves afford both warmth and protection; from Cording

Page 83

January

ey 4 «@ @ re 4 } } idoin ; & Co, | IMPORTERS, FO4 Fi th As Venue She LatisS hop of America

Instant Postum | Ps ANNOUNCE. THE | w OPENING OF < Ai perfect table | theiur- 4s salons beverage NOW pte=2 at | aie ||). “Daln Beach is : opposite Ahe Royal Pinciana Holel | ) h 4) preference lo | ie (shop pormerty oaxspeed by Mary Anderson @amer-) ; sess by those WHERE THEY ARE SHOWING . THE AUTHENTIC FASHIONS FOR THE L0 experience SMARTLY GOWNED AMERICAN WOMAN - annoyances . from coffee drinkin J. 36) Wa trav ~ Beach andSportsStuls- Ouldoor Frocks ~Hflernoon ssvenung ows Molor~Ulilily.»s Sports Coats 7) - fa | Skirls~Svealers-Blouses yo Halts ~ Wra Be hing Subs

In most home. and all good hostelries

(as €asy to use as to Say) keeps the body fresh and sweet : the whole day through. It gently neutralizes odors. Does not check perspiration. Harm- less—stainless.

25c at drug- and de partment-stores O-G SPRING BOOT “ Mum" tsa Trade Mark registered inU “MUM” MFG CO 1106 Chestnut St Philadelphia Patent Office

f “ j ele 1H all-over For Fascinating Hair GRAY KID Feminine beauty is complete only . when the hair is J healthy — \ustrous vivid with life, rich in natural tone Pétrole Hahn imparts these charming qualitie It contains natural Petroleum (delicately per fumed) and o her ingredients which cleanse. er rich and beaut fy the hair. Sizes $1.50 and $1 00 at dealers or by parcel post PARK & TILFORD, Sole Agents, New York “The Crowning Glory’’, a fascinating little brochure, sent free on request Petrole Hahn »,

A new pattern beautifully designed and very specially . , cc ’ ¢ priced. Snug ankle hug’’ fit. (Most people like to be a trifle ahead of the fashions. )

Substantial Turned Soles, 2%- in. French Heels. nae O’CONNOR & GOLDBERG | Fashion Bootertes Mail Order Department

AL q UF | REPUBLIC BUILDING, CHICAGO a : ‘a a Ave yeu taking advantage of O-G' Smart Hosiery 4s famous as O-G Smart Shoes. { y HD Ef | “ ams ciate

= you = my work

Made in U. S. A. E. & Z. Van

VAN RAALTE makes Nevvatare and Fairytex, two good and reliable nets that meet every net demand. All colors. little ticket on each yard. 5th Ave. at 16th St., N. Y.C Makers of Van Raalte Veils Ane At All Good Shops Look for this Raalte

—and Well ON’T accept ill-health, lou spirits, excessive flesh or unnatural thinness as a per- manent affliction. nine times in ten, born ailment, can be overcome, and any can be made to weigh exactly ? what she should easily, quick- : ly, inexpensive-| 2: ly—without = drugs—all in ? the privacy of her room. That’s a broad claim. But I can = prove it I have j reduced 40,000 of | the most cultured women and rooms—sci- entihc ally a = Without Drugs I will send you let = ters of endorsement = ffom eminent physi = cians and tell you how 1 would treat Physicians endorse their wives and daughters are my pupils Don’t let writing a letter stand between you and good health, animation, Correct Weight and a Perfect Figure Write me now—to day—while this sub ject is uppermost Tell me, in_ confi dence, whether you suffer from any a built | up aS many more, |) z in the privacy of| = their The most stub

i] woman ny eee een the ailments listed here, and how I can help you If you have any of the following derange ments, run a iine through it and send to me: Excess Flesh in any part of body Thin Bust, Chest, Neck or Arms Round Shoulders Incorrect Standing Incorrect Walking Poor Complexion Poor Circulation Nervousness es Constipation Irritability Dizziness Indigestion Rheumatism Colds Torpid Liver Weakness f Malassimilation Susanna Cocroft Dept.17 624 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago I will tell you

Page 84

VOGUE California : a yell esi -} f rate ig ra terme oe ae “ ; athe i or Florida? || |scsicesttt troy Len, ist ices i ed w castor, and pe e are gn ack, and " le rig , 9 hades which are good in velours and of buff colour, patterned wit! IC a t e suede cloth. In serge and gabardine, made up of triangles comy You cannot choose wrong. For either of these wonder states offers an ideal winter vacation THE \ rARY SHADES NOVELTIES IN But there is only a single choice in the trunk to take with you. For there is no trunk like a wardrobe—and no wardrobe like a HARTMANN The only wardrobe trunk with the cushion too—that binds hanging garments in place without pressing wrinkles into them. Ny Ny Cushion Top Wardrobe Trunks New economies in manufacturing methods have placed Hartmann advantages within reach of every trunk buyer. Prices range from $25 to $200. ‘Twice as many in use as any other wardrobe trunk known: Sold by the leading dealer in almost every city in the civilized world. h show hown a The Hartmann Trunk Company | _ Chicago Factories: Racine, Wis. New York 1 white The Illustration shows H Name of your . peeasiaiso Fieage: local Hartmann h Hartmar n Ward A Dealer on ; 7 robe Trunks. request,

Page 85

A be The The ESTEY RESIDENCE ORGAN N° music is too difficult for the Estey Residence Organ. No melody is too simple and delicate. The fire and verve of Anitra’s Dance are as inimitably rendered as the serio-comic Funeral March of a Marionette. The harp effects in the Barcarole from the Tales of Hoffman are like rippling water under the swaying prow of a gondola. Mandolins tinkle as Beppe serenades his Columbine. Trumpets blare for vic- torious Radames’ return. Isolde in haunting melody bewails the death of Tristan and her love. Ask what you will of this noble instrument. If music can express it, the Estey Organ will. The Estey Residence Organ is a true pipe organ, orches- trally voiced, and designed and built especially for the home. It reproduces all the tonal effects of a full orchestra. The Estey Organist, an integral part of every Estey Residence Organ, makes the best of all music available to the player without technical skill. Rolls may be obtained for any musi- cal composition, To families interested in the musical possibilities of the orches- tral pipe organ, we suggest a visit to one of the Estey studios in either New York, Boston, Philadelphia or Los Angeles. Appointments may be made for a private recital, and special programmes arranged to include your favorite compositions. THE ESTEY ORGAN COMPANY, Brattleboro, Vermont Ntudios in NEW YORK, West 45th Street PHILADELPHIA, 2707 Walnut Street BOSTON, 720 B yylston Street LOS ANGELES, 3372 South Broadway i» i - ~~ a a 2

Page 86

2—Nbua a Worn by (ween of thle Upring Showings for the ~Trede J" Ove, at 3] — New tor Oper Janld Palmer House “Chicago. Teb |. ID & Groediaey ~ Keases City " Janld ™ Frankel frank and Co = —3 838-380 2a0c 3008c——00ck 2 6: es 6 8 ee 6 8 8 8 CS 0 0 9 0 or 399 23.80 3 oe eo oO eS oe 3aGe WoRHrenchd da Glatevior Sorvetines cos Bakers of Fine Furniture —=3 8 8 3 ae = {a> 8 a 8 oo = if | | | j fj : | | VOGUE HOW NEW YORK MEETS MIDWINTER the rol n of t le of ers wore Spanish combs Marguerite, the Mar- ! . . ] , that were exceedingly = . . effective. Mrs. Charl Dillingham, who ] e de Polignac was a very graceful and | vel) ne ol! the par She wa eated at the table with Mrs. Reginald Vander i el ilt wore the tortol | n il mb wn ire e 27. at he ske hed a | H interesting chain age 27, at ( onyx and diam ese everely we hted by a k velvet gowr tangular jewel now er smart al Lhe ecent marr being worn by a f M Angeline J er f 1e fashi Krec he laugk t wome That e Mr. Alvin W. Krech, to Mrs. Oliver Perin Mr. Oliver B J is shown in the opposite ensign in [ é was also i States Nav R velvet; her gow I rce t K . 7 ad ep \ ‘ at Saint | € ck Mr Perr Cl irch Q t C t e. wa the ¢ 1 in id bri f e ‘J Cc h nf c Mr THE OPENING OF THE COo¢ THAT IS WOMEN CORPS BY A MOTOR MANNED

Page 87

January 15

: NG (ye (ly © ; MAKE your HAIR BEAU IFUL ad ae Be: \ tes Cleanse and ” freshe Yo alp * | Ha ft “Flu ft ‘Wa aes Buy a Small Bottle Now o +" r ( HAIR BEAUTIFIER IN THE WORLD

DANDERINZ] Se, = ee

De Lona Press Rese Sew it either side up—the WIRE SPRING locks securely, releases easily. Even the tiny 00 size—just right for chiffon, crepe, net — works perfectly without pulling the fabric Smooth finish; no rough edges to cut the thread THE De LONG Hook axe Eve COMPANY Manufacturers of Hooks and Eyes Safety Pins. Hair Pins. Toilet Pins PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.

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PRESENT AT THEIR» 1 DRLM BAGH SH)

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Page 88

_ YOUR: FAVORITE - SHOP « HAS - Vanity Taffeta, THE-MOST EFFECTIVE * MATERIAL OF THE * SEASON = AND * THE. MOST:-WANTED.

Philadelphia

v= ee aes = eet TS In The Dance Every thir 1g land—but They had a very lustre—but are dull and tarnished CINDERELLA Slipper Cleaner renovate them und seems like Fairy g ma Va your slippers. wondrous sil- now they will quickly restore their brilliancy Use Cinderella Silver for silver slippers and Cindereila Gold for gold slippers. Cinderella Kid Polish—gives a pure, white will not impair the kid nor turn it yellow It is also made in fancy shades Shoe Stores Department snowy gloss,

and | Stores sel] Cinderella =| Royal Derby Boot Polish—for . Calf, Kid, Pigskin, Cordovanand all smooth leathers | In brown, black, ma ; ) hogany, tan and neu | tral. Riding Boots re stored as by

magic.

_gy EVERETT & BARRON CO. | pag 44 = PROVIDENCE, R. |

» Sip ane

y illustrated

BLOUSE NO. B4038—For the blouss« e 36 bust: 2% vards of 40-inch mater OGUE PATTERN DESCRIPTIONS

48 n pa 55 to 58 are given in full below, the patter) ir 1 , iw / order in v) » appear p inning at h up r il f th a and reads ic? PATTERNS ON PAGE 55 WAIST NO. B4058; SKIRT NO. B4 For the waist in size 36 bust: 1% y FROCK NO. B4114 For the frock f 54-inch material; 4 of a yard of 3¢ size 36 bust: 4's yards of 32-inch material aterial for trimming. Sizes, 34 t a rd of 3 ! rial for collar nches bust measure. Price, 50 cents ial The ski s 36 inches long fr the skirt in size 26 waist: 33 yards of ‘ | waistline « - eis w inch material; 1% yards of 36 inc ch mat P ee oe Sises 40 incl x drapery facings. The skirt is it st ‘ Price, $1 mg trom the normal waist-line at , yards wide at the lower edge Sizes FROCK NO. B4081 I e frock inches, to 41 inches hip s s ards 8-inch materia P nt f S ff ards of 4 f a ' al Che skirt is PATTERNS ON PAGE 57 s Ss wide the lower edge FROCK NO. B3952.—For the k S re Price ze 3¢ st rds of 40-inch f a yard of inch material for WAIST NO. B4112; SKIRT NO. B4113. The skirt is ng from th e +h . ® $9 . ¢ vard 4 S wide i P s S S ards a yard of 4 edg Size t 40 inches sting al lar. Si 34 t rr : | S P t WAIST NO. B2498; SKIRT NO. B2 I Stee & waist a r waist in size 3 bust vard at rhe skirt is inches h material yard of " ‘ {fa ya tra wer ¢eag > t i i ul ff S 4 st measu hes isu P Pr 5 I sk hes long he FROCK NO. B4 l t - ar , ards I he skirt in size 2 waist 6-it s nch material 51zes 4 9 Th a Ss st sure to 41 es 2 5 Price $ s the > , Pp ROCK NO. B 4.—For the ; 4 s t + 1 ite FROCK NO. B411 4 1 c 1 ft r t 4 is k i i incl i f 3 h a r g a S is at 1 re - > + S a r I > WAIST NO. B3947; SKIRT NO. B PATTERNS ON PAGE for the waist in size 36 bust: 1 ta VAIST NO. B4054; SKIRT NO. B4 f Sizes, 34 4 Poe ¢ - te fie , 1 ? I I { I v ! ar S oe 4 I h S S g sur Pr ts F i 2 ist s ‘ Ss W st is The s é s hiy P - CK NO. B3 I k ¢ . yards t 4 P ‘ j j h t ng rhe sk FROCK NO. B342 Th k S al waist a1 i Pr 1 , a FROCK NO. B402 I h uteri , e 4 Se Pr 8 ee i i I ; FROCK NO. B .—J mal ‘ ‘ adi at . it tl ¥ dge Si 4 a of ar s rl Pr $1 Phe sk WAIST NO. B SKIRT NO. 1 . S e wais bust l i ~ : "= 4 ! f t WAIST NO. B3 KIRT NO. B37 ar. S ‘ For the waist i1 ards s s s Pr m2 it 1 of 36-i1 41s 4 s r g xX a 1 of nch i ate rhe skirt is es aI S 4 ‘ i 1 ar P , s Che skirt | edg sizes, ’ 24AN2 : ' P - a1 ; 1 ss FROCK NO. B403 For the . Pr . : . ——- = size 36 bust; 4 yards of 40-inch materi: . yards of inch material for vest WAIST NO. B4 - SKIRT NO. B4 sash facing The skirt is 36 inches r tl waist in size 36 bust: 2% yards the normal waist-l1 . rial ‘ ’ | 40-inch at the lower edge Size 4 ate ir and ffs. Sizes tt hes bust measure. Price, $1 ‘ we. Fs nt FROCK NO. B3864.—For th : 1 I 4 c ze 36 bust: 4% yards of 40-inch material 4 ter S s 3 iches Tar » mater: ] s e at ) rt fay ard of 36-inch mate 5 - : = 1e skirt 1s 36 inches long fr h the " Stuns 4 : _ & _ 24 t Waist-line ar s 2 yards : -— . > edge Size } 40 s S . p measure Pr Pr WAIST NO. B 8; SKIRT NO. B39: | r the w ¢ i: Ss } Ss ¢ . TO ° " ~ | vais 134 ya PATTERNS ON PAGE 58 nater fa rd ot 1" at r collar ar vest Sizes +t BLOU SE NO. B404 For the blouse . bust : od Pr cs ist: 2 yards of 40-inch materia pt : $ f a yard ot 40-inch material for ve material he - = und collar Sizes, 34 to 40 inches gZ t a s ' acure rice ‘ Ss is ae de - , easu i t ent r waist t t 41 es |}

: ‘ t

Page 89

January Boston Almost the first thing you see is the welcoming sign of The Lenox, Boston’s social center. Near everything worth while. Three minutes’ walk from the Back Bay stations and con- venient to all theaters. Home-Like Rooms— Choice Cuisine L. C. Prior, Managing Director Hotel Brunswick Same Management HHT ij z otcscnenonoses The BILTMORE Where the social life of New York centers by day and evening —s f CLOSE ; TO ALL THEATRES = + ND SHOPS ||| Watkins, N. Y. On Seneca Lake | |] Oven All Year Wm. E, Leffingwell, Pres. |i''| A MINERAL SPRINGS HEALTH Hl RESORT AND HOTEL HH} | Carbonated Natural Calcium Chloride Brine Baths HH] | FOR HEART AND CIRCULATORY | DISORDERS I | Hydrotherapy, Ele: reupreed Message | The treatments under t d f yhy Ht i] HEART DIS E ASE, Circulatory, Kidney, Nutritional Send for illustrated _t VV © GWU £& will attend to all your shopping. Its corps of expert shoppers will save you time, trouble and expense. Address VOGUE SHOPPING SERVICE 19 West 44th Street, New York City Reduce Your Flesh You can quickly dissolve superfluous flesh easily and with safety wherever desired by wearing Dr. Walter’s famous medicated reducing Rubber Garments Cover Entire Body or Any Part Endorsed and worn by society everywhere. by leading physicians BRASSIERE Price $6 BUST REDUCER Price $5 Dr. JEANNE B. WALTER, YEv oe Ye Billings Bldg., (4th Floor,) S. E. Cor. 34th St. & 5th Ave. New York Philadelphia Representa itive: Miss Mary Kammerer, 1029 Walnut St. Pacific Coast Representative: Ade Millar Co., 166 Geary St., San Francisco, Ca Send for Free Illustrated Booklet. “‘To be beautiful helps any woman to win 9°? any fight Woman's desire for beauty is natural, but beauty is not always Nature’s gift. But every woman should obtain the meas ure of beauty to which she is entitled, and she can obtain it if she will but give her omplexion a little expert care. To use the various excellent and readily obtainable cosmetics is good, but to have at one’s ommand the personal services of an ex pert is far better. Elizabeth Arden is personally serving so ciety in New York, Boston and Washington through the Salons she has established in these cities This service is also at the mmand of every woman who desires to achieve attractiveness and is willing to give a few moments of her time to sending for Elizabeth Arden’s book, “The Quest of the Be iful,”’ and giving a brief summary of the difficulties she has experienced in seention her complexion Ie a zing the beauty problems of all women and knowing they cannot all come r Salon, Elizabeth Arden gives consultation by letter and suggests indi idt cont adapted home treatments That her system of advising by mail is uccessful is evidenced by her increasing clientele in all parts of the country at home and abroad. It was only the other day that two women from Russia came to her Salon, having been told not to fail to visit Elizabeth Arden when in New York. and they were most enthusiastic in expressing their enjoyment of the Arden Treatments If you have not found the way to the perfect realization of your desir« Elizabeth Arden can undoubtedly help you as she is now helping thousands of women who once despaired of ever attaining a beautiful complexion. Follow ne are few of her famous Venetian Preparations, invaluable for home use ent | paid on, receipt of cheque money order VENETIAN SPECIAL ASTRINGENT ORANGE SKIN FOOD—To those who ar mpound f rare importe hert foe a affarts es unusu ard to get, and i 2 Phy ; 1 sults. It tigh I er oO se Skin } 1 a t - nu led It rebuilds w 0k an y ang r Larg ¢ ut s and has deacecih ae VENETIAN PORE CREAM “Not until = eect upon the an — tried \ etian Pore Cream was I a t $1.7 $2 and $3.7 he ~~ RR POUDRE D'ILLUSION—Gives a react ient Now they have entire 5 t the complexior 1 1 and my sk n is sn o th and n i h f r etected ayt . Exquisit rfumed textu \ r ! ELIZABETH ARDEN Salon D’Oro, 673 Fifth Avenue, New York WASHINGTON, D. C., 1147 CONNECTICUT AVE. BOSTON, MASS. 192 BOYLSTON ST. est Booklet many beauty THIBAUTs Wall Papers are designed for those who delight in the in- spiring influence of a lovely home and value beauty above its cost. Send for Booklet “C” illus trating many attractive in teriors and let our Home Service Department solve your decorative problems without cost to you. RICHARD E. THIBAUT, Ine. Wall Paper Specialists THE LARGEST WALL PAPER HOUSE IN THE WORLD Madison Ave. at 32nd St., N. Y. Branche BROOKLYN BOSTON NEWARK BRONX WASHINGTON HEIGHTS Cultivate Your Natural Beauty Y om ean have a youthful appearance, clear Y comptesion magnetic eyes, pretty eyebrows and — hes, graceful neck and chin; lux uriant h ; attractive hands, comfortable feet You poo remove wrinkles, lines, pimples, blackheads; strengthen sagging facial muscles have comfortable feet, all thru following the mple directions of Susanna Cocroft’s Physi cal Calture for Face, Neck, Scalp and Feet Thousands have done so. No drugs, no apparatus, ho inoonven- ienece, Ee ps taining hints and all about the Eve accomplished by the Grace Mildred Culture Course Dept. 1, 624 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago, ill. wonderful work ( ri Division of Susanna C'ocre Physical Culture Cour ry Expectant Mother Should Wear Lane Bryant’s MATERNITY 3.85—5.45—7.50—10.00 Order today, giving pres- e ent prepay all charges. Sat- isfaction money refu We are of Fashions, LA 17 PRICES waist measure. inded. or in the w a 1 for Mater and v every requirement figure. inable »call a ur stores wri D New York M Mode ‘ plete B and a full ‘ass rtment of Baby needs NE BRYANT, 21 W. 38th St., New York CHICAGO DETROIT North State Strest 255 Woodward Avenue

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MUU UU TOTO DET vi DLT EU DOT UU x UT TUT Minn nn Mn iil puitaal B Cckh- MILLINERY 6-8 Dest 478 Street ‘A step from Fifth Avenue WEW YORK TET DTT TOE he Opening of Our New and ©nlarged Lremises marks the occupancy of the largest exclusive millinery salon in the city ~the largest in any other city ~ even Paris ! —————_—— > 4 —— =a . TITEL CC TH CE ) FOR THE Marti eg cavia:. and there were tiny anch Ait I ] cL t eatur nd RACI EASANT Branca, combinat Italian ve hat su is f and nted t an i eedin occ?sions; te Uy ( tle er be rec is the \n- thi n le ess n ethod « the phx eal ert , even Phe Cré eak | e alwa Ke that pr I C c h 1 ) I diur rink a x f Du r It I ething i ; led Then r which the administra- also serve the Swedi _ When the birds are punch, for thi M A { ] aq rter ol! 4 pint (( ti 4 SO This luncheon p late doilie 5, ane q do fn doutes for set of Italian linen with cut-work and embroidery would be a charming gift for the bride’s chest. It includes a centrepiece, a dozer glasses; linens from Ottilie Brand HOSTES VOGUE = = = = = 2

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January 15 Hl HH i iit 1 AA HI

li ite

te VOGUE’S ADVANCE SPRING PATTERNS = are ready now Already, Vogue has begun to choose from the best of the advance spring modes and cut its new |

' patterns for the spring wardrobe of women who ) . wish to be smartly gowned for every occasion but ‘” . Vay who must consider costs. Some of the new designs : , i La Vogue Patterns. By using Vogue Patterns you halve i he your dress expense and double your dress distinction. \ ti tH t 1 \A UE \ t\ r Y Het | ‘ t | ' / . —_— . a (etree | 1 | Vogue Patterns Cost 50c each LT 3 ull-length Costume $1 | <= ‘ Wis cancennsiensdeaends $ .50 y BE Os b40es cons bcaweeeneat 00 ; Vo. Z Suit No. Z41 ) Pd ’ - Frock No. £24077-78 5 Coat . : ‘pintne 4 a are uit ads Nic sk Boat ea ig a oe 00 EROS Rte: Re 1 ( ) u dull [ ndergarments Tere ee eT eee ee 00 colored satin combined wit! t to. vith fou ( = 9 . & e new silk gingha im sand wae Children’s Garments......... 30 Rael ape soe: Royle this slim little suat : blue and a suggestion of red he Red (Cr the Long ND oat eck te a ek A ee a 1.00 with coral buttons. It is also é u hat } t ~wisewae a) xcellent model to use in re cael a vin on sates Ne c glig ee a a ok a oe ee er eee a ee 1.00 dutinn anils leit weatte tate Price $1 Onn Pie re ere 1.00 or serge. Price $1. Ready for immediate delivery at any of = Vogue's 16 Pattern Rooms VOGUE’S PERSONAL SERVICE OG O S Vogue maintains sixteen Pattern Rooms in leading cities. Here you may secure Vogue’s fashion advice in your own personal clothes problems; study combinations of the season’s smartest materials—silk suitings, wool finished mohairs and silk ginghams for spring wear—arranged in original color schemes for suits and gowns: try on crinoline models of new Vogue Patterns embodying Fashion’s latest decrees: select and purchase the actual patterns of those designs which suit you best. USE NEW YORK: 19 West 44th Street BOSTON: 604 Lawrence Bldg. 149 Tremont Street PROVIDENCE: Gladding Drygoods Company NEWARK: L: Bamberger & Company

CET

PHILADELPHIA: 304 Empire Bldg. 13th and Walnut Sts. BALTIMORE: Flower House Studio Charles and Hamilton Streets BUFFALO: Flint & Kent PITTSBURGH: Joseph Horne Co.

a

ATLANTA: The Smart Shop 203 Connally Bldg. CLEVELAND: Halle Bros. Euclid Avenue CHICAGO: 932 Stevens Bldg. 20 N. Wabash Avenue SEATTLE: Griffin Specialty Shop 1602 Second Ave. SAN FRANCISCO: Joseph Building 233 Grant Avenue LOS ANGELES: Bullock’s MONTREAL: The Children’s Shop 15 McGill College Ave. LONDON, E. C.: Rolls House Breams Building

Al

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| oe yy % ww v y! v v vB OVOVETY | EcyPTIEn’ PARFVM

i MYSTERIEVXY) 7 F 1 # y Vv l I Vv vv ! l ry WwW Ss ez | - PARIS NEw York | Send 15¢ for dainty sample Te ‘ork | - of this alluring perfume aunty, 120 West 32nd Street, New ¥ i it

S AN auxiliary in the treat- - ment and prevention of pyorrhea pe POWDER (Antiseptic it s ff ti\ ess to it p ss s P H IDE POWDER it I ug t ré It PYORRIEA The Dentinol & Pyorrhocide Co. 110-112 West 40th St., New York City

STRAIGHTEN YOUR TOES BANISH THAT Lahaye | ACHFELDT'S Perfection Tee Spring Worn at nicht, w auxiliary applia A Personal Demonstration of thi 3 Simple § M. ACHFELDT, Foot Specialist Marbridge Building Dept. 61, 1328 Broadway (at 35th St.) New York | PATTERN vv ye | a BLOUSE NO. B 4 Ss OUSE NO. B4 yust 234 Ya Ss ur ch Pr BLOUSE NO. B404 S S ards Pr BI SE Né BLOUSI \ I at r ¢ 1 ar Pr SKIRT NO. B3869.—Fo f nc 1 rts ar st meas Pr ’ OR T H \I DESCRIPTIONS aterial; nt of rd of E

= ws i os r Sizes, 24 to 30 inches waist measure, 3 | EMMY WEHLEN 41 inches hip measur *rice, 5U cents An artiste, widely known as a star in SKIRT NO. B3938.—-For the skirt in a. oa be ho ze 26 waist: rds of 54-inch mate > , sti a sacimeananes rial The i is ‘37 ieches long from the | normal waist-line and 1 yards wide at | U | N L A N | the lower edge. Sizes, 24 to inches / waist measure, 35 to 41 inches hip measure | males Senenens, FACE PACK SKIRT NO. B4067.—For the skirt ir A skin tonic which really rejuven- size 26 waist: 3% yards of 40-inch mate- | |) ates, clearing the skin to the glow | ial. The skirt is 36 inches long from the si f haot Incolith Tk Fase Pack Ih mal waist-line and is 1% yards wide at oF per ect ealth. ne Face Fac: the lower edge. Sizes, 24 to 30 inches waist is an eradicator cf wrinkles; it te eure, oy 1 inches hip measure. imparts firmness to facial tissues, tends to reduce flabby chin and enlarged pores, and to eliminate blackheads. Large Jar, $2.50 ' QUINLAN ASTRINGENT . . Te . ’ ) H () S | E S S Invaluable in reducirg large pores i) and smoothi g ski: texture i One Bottle, $1.75 i , QUINLAN SKIN FOOD 4 S$ Supplies life-giving food to each tiny Pi er" pore, rebuilding wasted tissues. { Small Jar, $1.25. Large Jar, $4.00 f | The Secret of Beauty’’ on request) | | - KATHLEEN M.QUINLAN |} 6 Le Kington Ave. Weur York | } , Du EL ENCAN O rt u (EL EN v-T | SANTA BARBARA CALIFORNIA ol 1 WI | HI ost beautifully situated | ir on ide f Californi Near the Old Mission of ( 1) Sar Barbara, 500 feet above the sea os (t on the crest of sunny Mission Ridgs a \bove t fos Ce ds view S nd Juntains El Encanto is entirel g tl latest equl] nt and « ces t. | Sery the American p After I] Encanto consists of a main build- : ‘ ing d ten cottages. Rooms vhit ; engaged singly r in suites of 2to5 ted f I ( Reservations of rooms may now \1 Du be made. Rates on application oe oe \ddr EL ENCANTO nh the [ : :

My Ladies’ Boudow for over 50 years

Imparts to the skina softness and tint so much desired. Price 75 At all Drug and Dept. Stores, or by mail on re- ceipt of price. Laird’s Bloom of Youth Co. Dept. V.M. 62 Cliff St., N.Y.C.

SRR RENEE ILE NRT

— —~ WN

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— January French Women to the Rescue! HEN the black cloud of war broke over the fair plains of Artois, all France, with its heritage of dread, fell instantly to work to make every individual and every resource count. Food was the woman's problem. Since the days of the Comtesse de Rebenac, in me- diaeval times, the women of France have been famous for their excellence and thrift in cooking. As the years of war have swept on, black necessity has forced French housewives to the utmost limit of their racial genius to conserve the food. Now that America is entered in the life-and-death struggle, we too face the duty, if not necessity, of avoid- ing all waste in food. Under these circumstances, what more serviceable thing could be done than to set before the women of America the advice of their noble sisters of France, born of their tragic experience! Alone of all American publications, The Delineator is in a position to do this; for we publish and send to France monthly a French edition of The Delineator The DELINEATOR (Le Miroir des Modes), the largest and most influen- tial magazine of its kind in France. We appealed to the readers of the French Delineator to tell their American sisters how they are solving the food problem. We asked specifically for their best eco- nomical recipes. And hundreds of women in all sec- tions of France have answered our appeal. These recipes, as delicious as they are economical, are being given to American housewives each month 1n The Delineator. They will prove a revelation. Each one has been successfully tested by Honoré Willsie, the editor. For instance, here is a recipe sent in by Mme. Louise Bocquet of the French town of Flers de !Orne. It is a recipe for Hindu biscuits given her by a Hindu officer billeted at her house. The ingredients are simply one ounce of flour, one ounce of butter, one ounce of grated cheese. The French recipes in one number alone will save you many times the price of a year’s subscription. Do not miss any issue of The Delineator. It is a family necessity. Invest in it to-day. Butterick-Publisher

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VOGUE HERE FOLLOWS A LIST OF THE NEXT TEN NUMBERS VOGUE WILL PUBLISH IN 1918 heck those you wish, tear yr ? ° off and qtve to your news deal 4 FORECAST OF SPRING FASHIONS FEB. 1 ‘The earliest authentic news “of the Spring mode SPRING VILLINERY FEB. 15 Ihe newest models in smart hats, veils and coiffures SPRING PATTERNS §& NEW MATERIALS MAR. 1 _ How the Spring models will e developed SPRING FASHIONS MAR. 15 — The last word on Spring gowns, waists, lingertl¢ ind iccessories PARIS OPENINGS APR. 1 —~ Working models for one’s — whole Spring and Summer wardrobe SMART FASHIONS FOR LIMITED INCOMES APR. 15 — First aid to the fashionable — woman ot not unlimited 1 means BRIDES AND SUMMER HOMES MAY 1 \ journey “thro” pleasure 4 and palaces” in Newpo ind) elsewhere PFRAVEL MAY 15 _ Places in our own countr well worth a visit at least SUMMER FASHIONS JUNE 1 The final showing of the Summer modes that will be IN THE COUNTRY JUNE 15 Society takes to sports and S ¢ life in the open Mr. Newsdealer: Please re rve for me the copies oO loan T have checked FOR the past month these offices have been deluged with letters and telegrams from persons lamenting the fact that they have found it impossible to buy Vogue on the news-stands. We regret that so many of our friends should have been disappointed. their disappointment could easily have been avoided. Unlike other magazines, Vogue is not fully returnable by the individual newsdealer to his big central magazine agency. This means that if your newsdealer orders a copy of Vogue and does not sell it, he loses the cost to him of that copy. Therefore, since the dealer must sell as many copies as he orders, he is not likely to have on hand even one more copy of Vogue than he positively expects to sell. This is why many women who expect to find Vogue always conveni- ently on sale are so often disappointed. You can avoid this disappointment by the simple act of giving your newsdealer an advance order; telling the numbers you desire and asking him to hold them for vou until you call. We should like to point out, however, that TA UH ? } j | NOTICE to News-stand buyers of VOGUE CS i Rn «AA ADA Ata waits Rhian | SO see. .O66G. O66. .O860. .294A. oA 12:5 1... ...

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lat SIEGE SARE SEAS AEG ENG ESS ELS EGP AG aha? aha? Haha? otha? Fouhoe? rLCORIEC SNE Flowers of the “Orie >t ( () - en l b) rEerraudmMe OY OLGN Ve & CO. HE alluring Oriental fragrance of Florient, its dis- tinctive refinement and ap pealing delicacy, all sug- gest the charm of rare exotic blossoms. Florient was accorded first place in an international perfume test, and like other Colgate Perfumes, it is a gratifying ex- pression of the perfumer’ Ss art. if you wish to make the Test, as already made by some 200,000 women, send 2c for directions and the Test Material. COLGATE & CO., Dept. 45, 199 Fulton Street, New ie of SBD: SEDs BSE Ss SSE Ss aS HESs AE HEDe ABTS SB ht thang? Soara? Soase? Soihe? Hosa? taka toata? toate? tothe! fosie Aes 22.5 eS? ¥ ¥L 296

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The New Way to Manicure How you can keep your cuticle smooth and firm without cutting it I Send for this complete Manicure Set t ( let M t M 1 t | t x " UW + ‘ ( ti itt , ‘ Te " ! \ Northam Warren, Dept. 301, 9 W. Broadway, New York City. NORTHAM WARREN Dept {)] West Broadway, N. Y. ¢