Vogue 1902-10-23: Vol 20 Iss 17

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23 October, 1902 PRICE, TEN CEN THREE DOLLARS A YEAR yoL. XX» MO. 17 (WHOLE NUMBER 515). PUBLICATION OFFICE, 3} WEST 20TH STREET, NEW YORK COPYRIGHT, 1902, BY VOGUE COMPANY TRADE MARK REGISTERED HANDSOME CALLING GOWNS

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VOGUE + tae a” ee BUSINESS NOTICES Vogue is issued weekly on Thursdays. Head office, 3 West 29th Street, New York. Cable Address: ** Vogue, New York.”’ London: Arthur Ackerman, 191 Regent Street. Paris: Em. Terquem, 19 Rue Scribe. Subscription for the United States, Canada and Mexico, three dollars a year in advance, postage free. For foreign countries in the postal union, four dollars a year, postage free. Remit by check, draft or postal or express money order. Other remittances at send- ers risk. Single copies ten cents, Manuscripts must be accompanied with postage for their return if found unavailable. Vogue assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts except to accord them ccurteous attention and ordinary care. Wrapper Dates.— The date printed on the wrapper of each copy denotes the time when the subscription expires. Change of address.—The address of subscribers will be changed as often as desired. In orderinga change of address both the old and the new address must be given. Two weeks’ notice to be given. Complaints.—Subscribers who fail to receive a single copy of Vogue should immediately notify the Head Of- fice. Readers who are unaole to purchase Vogue at any news-stand or on any ratlrvad train or steamboat will confer a favor by promptly reporting the fact. Enterec at N. Y. City P. O, as 2d Class Matter, 23 OCTOBER, 1902 SHOPPING COMMISSIONS EW YORK SHOPPING 4 An experienced buyer will fill mail orders for personal and household articles of every description. References. Miss G, Cate, 35 West 21st Street, New York. ‘i. MISSIONAIRE A Chaperone. Ten skilled assistants. Pur- chase any commodities sold in N. Y. Refer- ences from prominent persons in every State and lerritory. Subscription $1.co per year. Send for circular. Established 17 years. Telephone, 3126 18th Street. Kate E. Tirney, 35 and 37 East 20th St., New York, YHOPPING COMMISSIONS 4 promptly executed by a woman of taste and refinement. Special attention given to mail orders. References given and required. Mrs. Theresa K. Morgan, 115 7th Ave., N. Y. YHOPPING FOR CUSTOMERS 4 living in or out of New York. Selections made with taste. Orders promptly filled. Send for circular and reference. Miss Emma L, Alden, 46 West 33¢ St., N. Y. NY ARTICLE ADVERTISED 4 in Vogue or elsewhere supplied through this agency. General Commissions undertaken. Samples sent on request. Orders attended to immedi- ately. Best references. Address Miss Fine, 1425 B'’way, N.Y. I T 18S $O CONVENIENT to obtain anything from New York when you have a trusted agent to do your .shopping. Ihat’s my vocation—an agent to many ladies about the country. May I do yours? No commission charged Ella Harding, 96 Fifth Ave., New York. Late with Stern Bros, N EW YORK SHOPPING. PS 19 years’ experience. Expert on linens, silks, dress goods, Highest social and busi- hess references Miss Ida Ambrose, 292 Scher- merhorn St., Brooklyn PROFESSIONAL CARDS Ba DYED TO MATCH GOWNS All materials used by the dressmaking trade, also fine garments cleaned and dyed. Reai laces cleaned and mended. References. Madam Pauline, 111 West 17th Street, New York City. ISITING DRESSMAKING Classes by experienced Englishwoman. Special inducement for ladies to form classes. Rosa E, Payne, 424 West 23rd Street. FANCY SHOPS tees LITTLE FRENCH SHOP 19 East 33rd Street, New York Neckwear, Gloves, etc. Hair Ornaments, Veilings and Novelties. Sample books of Veilings forwarded to any partof the country. Philip Obenauer. FOOTWEAR ISS MARYANN E Formerly of Francis O'Neill. Custom boots and slippers. Ladies’ material made up to match gowns. M. A. Kirk, 52 West 34th Street, ROBES AND GOWNS ROBES AND GOWNS USTA RANKIN Hand-Made Blouses and Gowns 19 East 31st St., N. Y. Ave artes 6 S&S. €e. Artistic Waists, Gowns and Princesses 116 E, 27th St., N. Y. C ONSTANT QUELLER Ladies’ Tailor and Couturier 17 West 34th Street, New York Tel. 4095A 38th Opp. Waldorf-Astoria K E L L E N S Dressmaking. Fancy Waists, Tailor Gowns, _ Latest Coats, etc, Materials accepted and de- signed. Prices moderate. 134 West 48th Street. BYSCO LL & €O. DRESSES AND FANCY TAILOR GOWNS 26 West 33d Street, New York and Narragansett Pier, R. I. ' enone” i ae N. g. 4 U. A. MURRAY Gowns and Wraps 1115 Atlantic Avenue A z M A N O IMPORTER OF ROBES Evening Gowns a Specialty 16 West 39th Street, New York Ww fF eee eee Gowns and Wraps 205 West 48th Street New York Iss S fACOSRS N informs her patrons and others that she is now established at 149 and 151 Fifth Ave., where she is showing her importations for the fall of 1902. ROKMAN AND FRADKIN 56 West 35th Street Formerly at 8 East 6oth Street Plain and Fancy Tailor Gowns, etc. ARION FOWLEY IMPORTER Formerly with Simpson, Crawford & Simpson. Tea Gowns, Lingerie, Corsets, Waists, Walking Suits, Simple Evening Gowns, etc. 23 W. 3oth Street, New York City. ELISE (BACHMANN) M™ Formerly of Madison Avenue. Imported and original model gowns, fancy waists, etc. 434 Fifth Ave., Bet. 38th and 39th Sts. G R E A N Designer of Ladies’ Costumes Ladies’ Tailoring and Dressmaking 19 East 33d Street, New York ME. M BUSSE 1225 Madison Ave. (co., 88th St.). Street, Reception, Wedding, Evening Gowns, also Wraps and Coats made in the best and newest models, Material accepted. Suits from $18.00 up. & &£OoOk AN | U S$ F Ladies’ Tailors 6 East 30th Street, New York Late with Haas Bros. (> IL oT & © fF &. J 29 West 19th Street Importers and Makers of Millinery; also Dress- making. Latest Designs. Ladies’ own material used if desired. Reasonable charges, Children’s dresses a specialty. M ME. RENFREW WOOD Gowns and Wraps. Special attention to out of town orders. 22 West 32d Street, near Fifth Ave. > M. A. DELANEY 45 East 34th Street, New York. Latest imported costumes and evening gowns (Late with M. A. Connelly) , O N Importer, Gown Maker Calling Costumes and Evening Gowns a spe- cialty. 35 West 21st Street, New York. ATHILDE DE PARIS Fa Evening, Street and Fancy Tailor-made Gowns of exclusive, imported and original 208 W. 78th St., N. Y G O D L E ¥ Street, Reception, Wedding and Evening designs. Gowns. Material accepted $18.00 up. 169 East 46th Street, N. Y. City. S “ H E H L iN Street and Reception Costumes, Evening Gowns and Wraps from Original and Ex- clusive Designs. Charming Creations in Tea Gowns and Matinees. 15 West 3oth Street, N. Y mae eee Modes 432 Fifth Avenue, New York .7 S35 PARIS B O WHA LdUR ESE 19 rue Louis-le-Grand, near Place de l’Opéra. Dresses and Mantles of the latest style. Furs. Trousseaux. Special house for ladies. Moderate prices. A i. x YC LL ON. G e 18 Place de la Madeleine, Paris (In a Pri- vate Hotel). Dresses and Mantles. Stylish Models for Street, Evening and Ball Gowns, Very reasonable prices, HATS AND BONNETS Ww I E s O N | | O IMPORTER OF MODES AND ROBES . 38 West 33d Street, New York 4 East Washington Street, Chicago, II. OUMANS—HATS ROUND HATS AND BONNETS 1107-1109 Broadway 536 Fifth Avenue SEND FOR BOOKLET OF STYLES | allied NOUVELLE 308 and 310 Wabash Avenue, Chicago, Ill. (under the Auditorium Hotel). Millinery, including the genuine ‘* Connelly * Turbans and Phipps & Atchison’s Women’s Tailored and Sport- ing Hats. Largest and finest assortment in the West. Prices correct. Long Phone, Harrison 276. _ 6, HEALY E. Milliner has removed from 407 Fifth Avenue to 38 West 36th Street. Reaets & JEANNETTE Importers of French Millinery, 34 West 22d Street, New York. Telephone 2801—18th St. A S - O Designer of Artistic Headgear Studio 159 W. 45th Street, New York. Orders by mail, accompanied by photograph, will insure becoming hats to Ladies living out of the city. | | O T Millinery Importer. Chicago: 1919 Michigan Ave. St. Paul: 4th and St. Peter Streets. N Y CORSETS AND TROUSSEAUX y T. SCHNEIDER + CORSETIERE All imperfection of figure skillfully corrected. 292 Fifth Avenue New York ae. S22 es I CUSTOM-MADE CORSE1S All the newest models ME. H. DIAMANT from Paris, Custom-made Corsets. All the latest models adopted by the first dress- makers of Paris, 127 East 27th Street, New York TOILET ARTICLES R EM E RHE A a delicate and fragrant cream for whitening and softening the complexion. Invaluable for sunburn and freckles. Used by the best Mas- seuses. At Department and Drug Stores. BEAUTIFULLY DEVELOPED Bust, neck and form. My wonderful Egyptenne Oil Farinne with massage forms pertect bust. My Egyptenne remedies together with my exclusive method, make me the leading face and hair specialist inthe city. I offer this week free treatment to any lady desiring this essential attraction. Send stamp for buoklet. Madam Jacobeou, 35 West 2Ist St. Telephone, 2801b 18. “HAIRDRESSING Wavy AND CURLY HAIR may positively be obtained without curl- ing-irons by the use of Old English Hair Tonic. Send stamp for booklet. Mrs. K. Mason, 359 Fifth Avenue, New York. For sale in New York City by Caswell, Massey & Co., James McCreery & Co., B. Altman & Co., and Stern Bros.; by Jordan, Marsh & Co., Boston; Marshall Field & Co., Chicago; Scruggs, Vander- voort & Barney, St. Louis; Reddington & Co., San Francisco; George B. Evans, Philadelphia, and Roberts & Co., London and Paris. RTISTIC HAIR DRESSING ANDRE, 13 West zoth, expert ladies’ hair- dresser; specialist in hair coloring : imported hair ornaments, shell goods, wigs, transformation, pompadours, front pieces and wavy switches. ° VOGUE SPECIAL PATTER TA decd SWER . We Wy a The write ny letters t When so ¢ name, 10! Cut from Illustrations in y, SKIRTS jed a pseu fy the reply ‘ —— ; . heir lette In one size only, i. e., 24 w, /-welhoao 41 hip, 42 length, at $1.50 yggmpsdlication out foundation, $2.00 with f Confident 4 . pblished W dation. Cut to special measygfiestions 2° , publicatio $2.50 without foundation, $24 with foundation. Measure big?” 7 . . ex on application. sy advise fe ple, but D . me pgany. v BODICES AND JACKETS [iB fest, mo . Would I May be ordered in any bust mem as there ure from 32 to 46. Withgmede | ° pge sleeve, 75 cents; with sles are qui $1.00; sleeve only, 50 — Bodices and jackets cut to sped’, in c measures, a blank for which gp design, fo be sent on application, $2.s5oyqm? ‘ nts a yar' sleeve. width vh the first iti —_ in cream PRINCESS GOWNS d go all t . Beat top. T In any bust measure, $2.00;4 you name sleeve, $2.50. Cut to spe Stem > ib ° . k, keep thi measures, $5.00 with sleeve, D3. Mo Shirt W LONG COATS » L—(1 k silk dre hs b : quite stout any bust measure, with) How a sleeve, $2.00 ; with sleeve, $2.9fmmpinter wear in special m Fbgn Pp easures, $4. fight st. Mak CAPES pe sill = ming wi kled with One dollar and a half. eon = > a ts, the tail CHILDREN’S GOWNS Cada Up to fifteen years, $1.00 eagmeck. o Part of suit—bodice, skirt, @ wy;.. sleeve—50 cents each. c is pretty. other hea inter. T) MISSES’ GOWNS ctly plain narrow cul be plain, ts are pert r side of t 294. Ret Design fc os A. HH. The same as adults’. Duplicates given with speci measure patterns only. which |] h I enclos COUPON PATTERNS va y 50 cts. each with coup pir grace + ee 1) In rem or 60 cts. each witholls wea s: er, with s coupon. litle but ; ‘ : the same Bodices in one size only, 36 butte yoke, 24 waist, cut to any other si ¢ $1.00. Skirts in one size OMB, also in 24 waist, 41 hip, 42 length, cul acho special measures, $2.50. 2) Make sixth mo ust, using a pale pink Address VOGUE, Bis prefers a carried out 3 WEST 2oth STREEB cof - you wi and softe: NEW YORK ple pink ot 295. Mo Short C

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JE TER RAS es) , TO CORRESPONDENTS § aR RRS SWERS TC We he RULES The writer's full name and address must ac- ny letters to Vogue. When so requested by the correspondent, r name, initials, nor address will be published, -j a pseudonym is given as a substitute to fy the reply Correspon¢ f their letter paper. S in Voy tents will please write only on one +> 24 Waj ency questions answered by mail be- $1 bi ‘ ication when $1.00 is sent with the ques- . Wit ith ¢ dential questions answered by mail are with f ee ake 43.00 are sent with the question. i] Meas nestions not complying with this rule are sub- 0 publication. ition, 33 -asure bk 92. Madras Curtaining. ToS. B. Next to a fine lace curtain, what curtains 1 advise for a colonial house? The house ole, but dignified, furnished chiefly in old pany. We thought of cream madras as ofest, most artistic material next to real Would rather not spend over $4 a win- as there are fifteen windows to be cur- How should madras be finished CKETS - bust me With i alike. ige ? ith sle a — quite right to consider madras cur- 50 hg for rooms furnished with old mahogany. cel b : : 4s is always in good standing, and at the It to speq ent is in especial favor. A beautiful bow- which design, forty-five inches wide, sells for 60 $2 a yard (No. 3960). A good quality at P2508 nts a yard, with an Empire wreath design, width (No. 4327), is also desirable, ch the first-named is prettier. A fringe to i in cream color is 12 cents a yard. . It ws d go all the way around the curtain ex- : Mea top. This brings the cost within the 52.00; WHR you name, allowing five yards toa cur- to sped Stern Brothers, West 23rd Street, New sleeve, k, keep this material. bo3. Model for Silk Gown—Styles Shirt Waists and Materials. To . L.—(1) How would you advise making k silk dress for a person of medium hight quite stout ? ) How are the shirt waists to be made inter wear and of what material ? n) A pretty model for a black silk gown e right design on page 233, Vogue, 21 st. Make the trimming of stitched bands he silk and decorate the ends and pbints of ‘ve, $2.9 ming with black embroidered motifs, hal kled with jet beads. alf. here are multitudinous designs for shirt fs, the tailored ones fastening in front and vNS a few of the fancier models made to button 1.00 exfmmeck. French and Scotch flannels and bas- re weaves will be the prominent shirt mate- | SKITt, White flannel with a narrow line of k is pretty. Wash shirts of cheviot, piqué other heavy cotton shirtings will be worn ‘inter. The conservative shops are making S ctly plain tailor shirts, with small sleeves narrow cuffs for link buttons, The back Its’. be plain, tucked or box-plaited. The ts are perfectly plain, gathered a little on | +h spec r side of the front. | 294. Remodeling Blue Cloth Gown | Design for Gauze Evening Gown. H. A. H.—(1) I have alight blue broad- | which I wish to alter slightly, and of | h I enclose detailed description. Will you | be give me suggestions ? 2) Will you also suggest design and trim- | PERN COUPOBM for gauze evening gown ? . h 1) In remodeling your cloth gown, on the W ICO rs use a stitched taffeta band, self-tone, on er, with small upward-pointed tabs held by f litle buttons covered with the taffeta. the same style of band at top of flounce. ) 30 bu the y ake, get a filet lace and have it dyed ther si2 Bhade of gown, or use the batiste, embroi- . 1, not dyed. Veil the white satin first with S1Z€ OMNBERon, also in the shade of cloth. Finish the oth, cutgpe like revers. 1f you prefer, use velvet in 2 of taffeta for bands. 2) Make your gauze evening gown like sith model on middle page, Vogue, 7 ust, using a glacé taffeta foundation in a pale pink or light green ; and whichever ris preferred, have the handwork decora- carried out in the same shade. Select a Coffee-colored lace for leaf applications ; H you wish a décolleté design, omit the and soften the neck with a tiny shirring Rie pink or green chiffon. 295. Model for Tailor Suit—Long Short Coats—Materials for Even- REE ing Gowns. To Westerner.—(1) I have been a reader of Vogue for several years and have gained much pleasure from your Answers to Correspondents column. I shall be grateful if you will advise me of appropriate tailor suit, walking length, for young woman of medium hight and build. I wish to dress to look as tall as possible. (2) Are short or Eton jackets, with capes or without, in good style, or must I get a long jacket ? (3) Will you also tell me what to get for simple evening gown? (1) The left model on page 369, Vogue, 18 September, would be becoming to one of your stature, making the skirt walking length | as you desire, and, if preferred, the sleeves a little less full just above the wrist. is somewhat of an Eton, but more elaborate than is usual with that style. (2) There is a noticeable absence of the regulation Eton jacket among the new models. The long-coat effects are quite modern, but the short jacket will always be good style for those to whom a longer mode is unbecoming. (3) Plissé or accordion-plaited skirts will be in vogue this winter for evening gowns, and, naturally, mousseline and chiffon will be used extensively. Crépe de chine and louisine in the pale shades make charmingly youthful frocks for the evening. Model on page 372, Vogue, 18 September, is pretty. 2296. Angora Kitten Raising. To Angora.—I have a few questions I should like answered about the bringing up of an Angora kitten I have just bought : Should I wash the kitten, and how often ? What soap shall I use? I see it has fleas. What else besides milk shali I give it to eat? How often shall I feed it? Is it well to give it castor oil, and how often? The kitten is now two months old. The experience of an owner of three Ango- ras is that they should be washed to keep their coats in good condition. It is better not to put soap on their hair, but wash them in soaped water, a lather being made. There are reliable Ust as the Romans held that Czsar s wife J cannot be suspected, so there is not the slightest doubt of the wonderful efficiency of Dr. Dvs’ Sachets de Toilette and Bandelettes for conferring upon those who use them a com- plexion that will always be free from wrinkles and bright and youthful. These Sachets revive and beautify the com- plexion naturally, and being composed entirely of the petals and pollen of flowers mixed with herbs whose beneficent action upon the skin is well known, are absolutely powerless to injure the most delicate skin. The method of using the Sachets is so simple, the result so exceedingly pleasant, that it is not surprising that so many of us are following it. For very young women who have no lines about their eyes, it is advisable to use the Sach- ets Simples and thus prevent the smallest inroad of time. By squeezing one of these Sachets into a basinful of warm water you have a de- | lightfully perfumed and milky solution that is | most beneficial to the skin. Many women alternate these Sachets, using Sachets Simples at night and Sachets de Beauté in the morning, and they find that all the tired lines beneath the eyes disappear quickly. The elderly can always use the Sachet de Beauté with advantage, but if her skin should be very dry, alternate with a Sachet de Frai- cheur, or if very oily, with a Sachet Concen- tré. The blonde may safely alternate with a Sachet de Jeunesse, and the brunette with a Sachet a l’ Aubepine, while the young girl may keep on with the Sachets Simples for ever. The Sachets are beautifully put up in the daintiest of boxes—so in each, except the Sachets de Jeunesse, which contain 60, and the prices are as follows: Beauté, per box, $6.25 ; Fraicheur, $5.00; Jeunesse, Aubépine 2nd Concentré, $3.75, respectively; Simples, $1.75. v. Darsy’s New York branch is at 21 West 30th Street, Suite V. . ! This coat | soaps and lotions for cat-washing, and a list of these can be secured by addressing the cat- breeders’ periodical, called The Cat Journal, published at Palmyra, N. Y. In the matter of diet, there are foods which are given in addition to milk, but that ought to be sufficient nourishment for awhile for so young acat. It is best to feed a cat at regular inter- vals, and the shortness of these intervals will be determined by the amcunt the kitten takes each time it feeds. This is layman experience. As to oil-giving, ordinary table oil is preferable to castor oil, The oil is useful, among other ways, in bringing up balls of fur that the cat has swallowed in making its toilet. Once a week is not too often for the oil-giving. Dress Cutting---Milliner and tafloring thoroughly taught b: improved method, quickly, easily economically. Positions guaranteed graduates. Fashion Magazine mailed free. Miss. BeGell School, 96 Fifth Avenue, cor. xsth Street, New York. and %.Altmand Go. are showing the well-known FASSO CORSETS in the latest improved styles, to meet the requirements of the present fashions in dress. These high-grade Corsets combine the same excellent workmanship as heretofore, with the most advanced ideas. Materials used are Brocaded Silk, Embroid- ered Batiste, Silk Broché Batiste, Black Wool (satin finish), White Coutil, etc. Prices up to $75.00. range from $5.90, 7.25, 9.75, [2.50, A Eighteenth St., Rineteenth St. and Sixth Ave. is cultivating figures with her FAMOUS CORSETS 18 AT East 45th Street New York “Dusent FIVE O’CLOCK TEA ENGLISH BREAKFAST TEA Very Choice Mr. receipt of price. 572 FIFTH AVENUE Dean directs attention to his very choice Teas, both of which are especially good for use in a_ tea-ball. (Cmgou) Tea,’ ‘* Special Blend (Ceylon) Tea’ at $1.00 per pound are packed in attractive pound and balf- pound packages, and will be sent post-paid on Bet. g6th and g7th Sts., New York His ‘* English Breakfast * at $7.50 per pound, and bis Dean} TEA A Special Blend

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PANSY Latest Parisian Ideas in Corsets We guarantee to fit vou pertectly in haif an hour, not only as good, but better than is done to order. Corsets for stout or slim forms, health and comfort studied, and every model much less than it can be bought in Paris. Pansy Corset Shop Cor. Broadway and 2oth Street New York

Josephine Corsets Made to Order 434 Fifth Ave., New York Corner 30th Street Sole maker of the Josephine Corset shown in the accompanying illustration, which gives the perfect form Front or back lacing, straight front and guaranteed to reduce the waist, abdomen | and hips. Made also with short hips for | slender figures.

Beet : | This Corset is not sold by agents and can be had only at the above address.

CORSETS |

In Europe and America there are, all told, over eight hundred (8OO) different manufacturers of Pianofortes

Harold Bauer the distinguished pianist, a musician qualified

by natural endowments, perience to pass ex-cathedra judgment on matters musical, selects from the eight hundred the training and ex- Mason & Hamlin Pianoforte for his public and private use, and declares _ of the ; VJ Mason & Hamlin Grand As an instrument for bringing into promi- nence the individual qualities of tone and touch

of the player, the Mason && Hamlin Piano stands absolutely preéminent ;”’ and of the Mason & Hamlin Upright “Tt is the finest Upright Piano I have ever met with,”

WAVY AND CURLY HAIR may positively be obtained without the aid of curling irons by the use of Mrs. Mason’s Old English Hair lonic, which is used by the DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH, LADY CURZON and many of the leading society women of London, Paris and New York. For sale in New York City by Caswell, Massey & Co., James McCreery & Co., B, Altman & Co., Stern Bros., N. Y.; by Abraham and Straus, Brooklyn, N. Y.; Jordan, Marsh & Co , Boston; Marshall, . 94 & Co. ‘ Chicago ; Scruggs, Vandervoort & Barney, St. Louis, Mo.; George B. Evans, Phila elphia, 3; Reddington & Co., San Francisco Cal. ; and leading firms throughout the U, S, Price $1, expgéss paid. “SYLPHINE” (Registered) A SLENDER FIGURE assured by the use of Sylphine which 1s invaluable for the removal of that unsightly disfigurement, a double chin. Price $1.00, post-paid. Send 6 cents for booklet and sample of Sylphine, or 2 cents for booklet on the preservation of the hair. MRS. KH. MASON, 359 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK “pectel | treatment of the hair and consultation given at the above ac address

YOUMANS » CELEBRATED HATS ROUND HATS AND BONNETS PROPER STYLES For all Occasions for Men and Women Write for Booklet of Styles. 536 FIFTH AVENUE Near 44th Street 1107 and 1109 BROADWAY Madison Square West 158 BROADWAY Near Liberty Street

re ee ae »GUE’S uMBER 19! = e N 1Cce Nails Ogue pul gives ¢ year, ¢ make homely hands handsome and me of H handsome hands handsomer. " The Ve yniform pr 4 with a « My e, or sixty M Pe by Je sket aid’s 0 wool ¥ 1 the size anicurin only at the red or plai tly pouches Manual is laid over , then ort edge is cul tells all there is to know about theme” ** °°” care of your nails—how to make ja made and keep them shapely ang Straps V brilliant—how tocure and ented to 1 / prevent hang-nails — houlders. J and other wrinkles the front, verse orde! : bw-shaped | may be w nN y de of the turn-over Ten Cents ¢ sleeves size rathe 3 [COIN OR STAMPS] materials ; , the should: to all who answer this advertismey band at tl mented to Address ng is made Jay, Bee & Co, BBS + 1133 Broadway, New York A small \ he wristbar LL he waistbar AS Sh IR cea ly in the f le or in any —_——— fity of tw and three- wide mate

KENZEL’S FACE, NECK BLEACI AND ARM ont, half- , neckband side piece, pugh as ar nnel waist, the oute: such as t and to cor D cut out s, and sm l, as show: exture at f to enable | The ren | folded d who may nly, and w t possible t bg it toa lor a small basq ng band. ‘ inder part o ill be effec: up to the raps. OF < $0 much ti

Is a superior prepara.ion for BLEAC oor ar ING the skin and beautifying the com is : : ion, removing FRECKLES, TAN oe! ce the all BLEMISHES, rendering the

soft, white and firm. ESPECIAL — ADAPTED TO RE/OVI ~ —s DARK STAIN- ON __ NEGggem, the f

e line, whe Next

CAUSED BY COLLAR.

Guaranteed perfectly harmless and 5 tak nese from all injurious ingredients : — Beware of worthless substitutes. “sag _ Price, $1 per 8 oz. Bottle ling, of cou Ask your dealer for it or send diret ried, and is the laboratory. t place th KENZEL MANUFACTURING (00, in c: 97-99-101 Reade St., New Yé If the 1 Spe cialties : oe, of the arm Face Bleach, Rog, an Face Powe nyo All sold 5 but it lo

John Wanamaker,B’ wind &roth St.N

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)GUE’S WEEKLY PATTERN wuer 191 23 OCTOBER, 1902 Ogue publishes one pattern a week. This gives the subscriber fifty-two designs a year, carefully selected to meet the re- ments of the season. All the designs are The patterns are in one size only—36 ; The Vogue Weekly Patterns are sold at niform price of fifty cents each if accom- i with a coupon cut from any number of e, or sixty cents without a coupon. ails dsome and somer, ‘Je sketch of the current pattern repre- ‘ sents a new shirt waist for making in ) wool or cotton. The upper part is » the size of the figure, and there is full- only at the waist. That of the back is red or plaited to the middle ; in front it is rly pouched over the waist belt. A box is laid over the right front edge and stitched then ornamented with dots. The left odee is cut a little less wide, hemmed and bas are sewn on which fasten through but- — the sles made down the centre of the box o— Straps with mitred ends, stitched and 7 ented to match the front box plait, trim : = houlders. The points dip toward the mid- ve the front, while those of the back are in verse order. The neck is finished with a pw-shaped band, over which any preferred may be worn 3 or, a stand-up collar may ade of the material and ornamented, for a turn-over collar and tie to be worn with ts 3] vertismen e sleeves are the regulation tailor shirt- size rather smaller than those used for materials ; they are eased into the armhole the shoulder tip, and gathered into a rather band at the wrist, which is stitched and mented to match the other parts. An ing ig made at the back of the wrist in the ; it is trimmed along the upper edge with ed stitched band which overlaps the open- A small wrap is added to the under edge, he wristband fastens with buttons. he waistband is a shaped one, cut to dip ly in the front, where it fastens through a le or in any preferred way. The necessary ity of twenty-seven-inch-wide flannel is and three-eighths yards, or three yards of wide material. The patterns consist of ont, half-back, one sleeve, halves each of , neckband, wrist, and waistband. Half side piece, and half back, for foundation. pugh as a rule a foundation is not used for nel waist, it is a good plan to have it to the outer part to in fixing the different such as the width across the front, the and to correct any measurement by. b cut out the garment. Lay the front, s, and smaller pieces on the full-width |, as shown in diagram, which represents exture at full width with one end folded toenable those pieces to be cut out in The remainder cuts the back with the el folded down the middle of the width. who may havea three-vard length of flan- nly, and who wish to copy this waist, will t possible to get it out of that quantity, by bg it toa long waist length only, and setting 2 small basque of lining, or finishing with a ng band. Then, by making a seam down nder part of the sleeve, a considerable sav- ill be effected, which wili bring the back up to the other parts, as well as cutting raps. O; course it is better not to have to so much time on the planning; but three- 0. York BLEAC lengths are so frequently sold for shirt the coma that it is satisfactory to know a way out ,, TAN difficulty in such a case. ing the & make the waist. First take off about ECIALLEP2*s down the left front edge, which will Fr0vl sufficient to make a three-quarter inch | NEO hem, the fold of which will underlie the 4 line, where the buttons are to’ be sewn ions ead Next arrange the plait down the right taking care that the middle line again stitutes. exactly under the middle of the plait, Bottle p next sticcn, and work the buttonholes in, nd diet Ping, Of course, that the size of pattern has ned, and is apparently correct. t place the snuaiaer and sides together, Yon, in case a little taking in may be re- RING C1 Jew Yo If the fit is at all sloppy, take up the pers a little, and, if necessary, cut out the " Povie . the arm holes. Always be careful not ! € any garment too narrow across the hy St.N but it looks very ugly for the front of arm hole seam to be covered by a small fold, owing to the width across the chest being more than is necessary. Stitch the seams, and bind the turnings with narrow ribbon after pressing them open and notching them at the waist points. Cut strips of fine crinoline muslin to match che straps, but less theaturnings ; tack these latter over the muslin and ornament them ; then lay them on the waist, tacking them very firmly (otherwise they will push out of place in the machine) and stitch them. Lay a cloth over and well press them. Arrange the fullness at the back waist and stitch a strip of the material across it. The whole waist line may be set on to a tape if de- sired, but a very good plan, and one that keeps VOGUE'S WEEKLY PATTERN—NO. For description, see this page. Nothing was ever more welcome to a limited purse than this pretty and modish way of trim- ming skirts and bodices, blouses or jackets in match-materials, with bias flat folds, varying from a quarter to almost half an inch in width. What can be easier than to cut stripes of bias cloth to suit these widths, and to blind-stitch them on the wrong side. When that is done your trimming is ready to sew on in the same invisible way. Be cautious to cut a true bias in cutting for the smooth flatness of your trimming depends on that. You may vary the manner of trimming. ‘Three-ring rows around the bot- tom of a skirt look very well, all of one width, or in graduated widths one half-inch width may be put on, so as to form a succession of loops. 191, PLAIN SHIRT WITH STRAPS, Cut paper pattern No. 191 sent on receipt of coupon with remittance of fifty cents. The next pattern will be No. 192, the waist nicely taut under the arms is to lay a strip of either the texture or some linen to match along the waist line at the back and to about three inches in front side seam, stitching it down quite firmly. Then sew tapes at each end and tie in just the front fullness. Make the sleeves in the ordinary way, open- ing and binding the seam edges. Line the wristband either with silk lining or the flannel and interline it with muslin if necessary. Use buckram for the foundation of the waistband, which stitch after it is lined, as this will give an added firmness. WHISPERS TO THE GIRL WITH NOTHING A YEAR O keep up with the fashion of the hour in the way of frogs and separate ap- plications is an expensive thing to do, as those who shop at all well know. Why not make such ornaments instead of buying them? The cords to make them of are com- paratively of little cost, and they may be fash- ioned in flat discs—or in oval loops in pairs— with a button or crochet-work sewed on after- wards in the centre with loops of cords for the fastening. By carefully looking at a pair it will be seen that the process of making is far more simple than at first appears. Besides the cords for fastening, adding two or three groups of heavy cords, long enough to hang below the frogs, will make them still more ornamental. These are sewed fast on the right side of the frog and furnished with a hook on the other end, after being joined together, so as to fasten to the coat by means of a silk loop. 533 Skirt for young g'rl, 16-year size It is far better not to try intricate designs, but to do a simple one perfectly. Use the same for the bodice in accordance with its modeling. Short strappings of the folds are effective on the sides of a narrow front-gore of a skirt, for in- stance. They may be much shorter at the top, not more than three inches long, and increase to eight inches at the foot. These straps being in pairs on both sides, are to slant in such a way that were they to meet they would form an in- verted V. By using only quite wide folds, and as a trimming slanting them in the same way, you may start just below the line of the knee, instead of the full length of the skirt. On the front of the blouse bodice keep up the same slant and have two rows in pairs, one on either side, but have all of these folds noc more than two and one-half inches long. Repeat the same idea upon the outside line of the full sleeves, perhaps a pair grouping of three, or four rows would answer. It is optional whether the sleeve strapping be all of the same length, or that the top pair tbe the smallest when increasing down- ward. The top pair may start iust below the elbow. Cut the neck of bodice and show a shallow V, and fill in space with a high chemi- sette of ecru or black filet lace and use the same for the wristbands. If you wish a postillion tab at the back, trim it with bias bands up to the belt in cross-rows and attach it to the belt. There are very many models in long coats, gray cloths as well as castor shades being favorites. Last season’s models are by no means demodé, but the addition of shoulder capes (if it happens that the coat is lacking in such a trimming) is advised as a necessity. All the smart coats have one or more. The half-length and three- quarter coat is the sensible one to choose for those who do not keep carriages, as it accords well with a walking skirt. Still better are the new, loose short coats, falling just below the hips, in a few box plaits, or several side plaits. For walking purposes they are decidedly the most comfortable. They, too, have a large shoulder cape or two or three small ones. Frogs and hanging passementerie ornaments look extremely well on their fronts and across the shoulders. There is no need to trim the plaited skirt; the plaits alone give a trimming effect. Concentrate all the trimming upon the shoulders and down the two fronts as well as upon the sleeves—which need to be in some one of the new bag-like models. One modish WRIST BAND SIYODWVATIZS SELVAGES FOLD design of sleeve allows plenty of drapery, but ends in a rather close cuff at the wrist, the drapery being gathered up into this close wrist- piece, which is a great protection in winter. Where the sleeves are wide and loose they are very unfit for winter walking purposes, unless large muffs covering the wrists are carried. VOGUE PATTERN COUPON To Vocur, 3 West 29TH STREET New York | ENclosed please find fifty cents, for | ~ which send by mail to my address | below : Vogue Pattern No These patterns are made in medium size only. This coupon must be filled in and mailed to Vogue, when remittance is made for pattern.

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Soh Sonat, West Twenty-Third Street (pisQrres'fote1) New York We are the acknowledged Leaders in High-Class [lillinery At [loderate Prices Our TRIMMED HAT DEPARTMENT presents the newest creations of the Paris and London fashion magnates, with those of our own designing, which not only equal their foreign rivals in artistic beauty and effect, but ofttimes excel them. This season notably so. Specials in Ostrich Plumes Black and White $ 2 .95 French Ostrich Plumes and 18 and 22 inches long ~ 3 ‘ 05 Sold regularly at $4.50 and $5.50 Mail Orders are only filled on MONDAYS for these Plumes The Most Stylish J Garments ; A Crown Label in Your Clog, sl laa. Or VY : DR Omen is a Guarantee of Excellenc. O! “CROWN” MONTE CARLO COATSE 42’ “CROWN” ULSTERS ae “CROWN” JACKETS, CAPES a dry t BEAR THIS LABEL reat silitis, Linings and materials guaranteed for reasonable wea dred ( and nos IF YOUR DEALER DOES NOT KEEP enn THEM, ADDRESS US, THE MAKERS and positively none sold to dealers. S. KOCH & SONS 24 West 23d Street Fulton St. and Elm Place, B’ klyn. 12 Rue Ste. Cecile, Paris. S. ROTHSCHILD & BRO. 5, 7 and 9 Union Square jaw fro. Sent postp C. Dept. 3, 12 Betwee The Forsythe Neckwear ~~ . Stocks No. 1. Taffetas—black, white, and in colors, $3.50 No, 20. White Taffetas combined with any color desired, $2.00. No.8. “ The Forsythe Stock * of Taffetas, Satin, or Peau de Crepe—black, white, and in colors, with detachable collar, $1.50. Separate collars, each, 20¢c. No. 37. Peau de Soie or Satin, in colors combined with white or black, $2.50. No.7. White silk, combined with cut velvet, or panne velvet in a variety of colors, $4.50. The Shirt Waists are finished with a silk neckband. A stock or collar may be worn as preferred. Made orders carefully filled Made by JOHN FORSYTHE The Waist House BROADWAY, between 17th and 18th Sts., N. Y. Morris Weingarten Ladies’ Tailor, DressmakKer Furrier and Milliner | | Is now exhibiting many unusually pleasing models | Plain and Fancy Tailor Gowns | Street, Afternoon and Evening | Dresses, Fur Garments and Mill- inery at his new building .’. .°. The Dressmaking Department is under the personal supervision of Mme. BARTON (late with Dinsmore) Mrs. A. M. Smith in charge of Millinery Department 34 West 35th St., New York Near Fifth Avenue ; The Bust Beautiful Our method of treatment for Developing the Bust has the following points of excellence possessed by no other method, and which we positively guarantee : Certainty. This we prove by living subjects, photographs and sworn statements. Rapidity. No other method can possibly show such quick development. Convenience. No effort or work whatever necessary on your part. It is a home treatment. Harmiessness. 1,000 physicians in New York alone certify to this statement. Cost. Very moderate. most difficult cases. The Venus de Milo Method appeals to common sense and intelligence. Our booklet, ‘* Health, Grace and Beauty,”’ giving full information, sent in plain sealed envelope free on receipt of 4 cents One price for the simplest and for the Department V. postage. Women specialists in charge. THE NATURE, COMA: NEW vorK 534 HOSIERY SHO! 230 FIFTH AVE. Weare selling for $1.50 a paif, thin fine Lisle Thread Stockirgs Lace inserted, which can not be had¢i where for nearly double the price. Silk inside and lisle outside, whens ribs are pulled out, show two black and white, and all colors, $1. pair, regular price $2,50. Special gauze Lisle Thread 3oc.. or 6 $2.25, which are a great bargain, value. Just opening for Fall the! somest stock of Men’s French half from 85c. to $2.50 a pair in Lisle Th to be seen in New York. Our sp Child’s School Stockings for 23¢.4 are as good as can be had for 35¢.¢ where. Bright thread Silk for men women $1.35, cotton soles; the quality of silk $1.50. ODE OOM RIFT NIN LEC’ LEVA GO’ 230 FIFTH AVENUE BDR 4c)

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4 DEVICE » prevent [louth-breathing during sleep

r SUGGESTED BY Cloak DR. FRENCH el lence, OF BROOKLYN Do you snore? Do you DATS talk in your sleep ? Areyou suffering from catarrh ? Have you that bad taste or Ss a dry throat upon rising ? Mouth-breathing is pro- yocative of Catarrh, Ton- silitis, Bronchitis and kin- le wearfm dred diseases of throat and nose. Ours is the only EP practical device that will RS infallibly prevent the lower : jaw from dropping. \ ENOVES DOUBLE CHIN WITHOUT FAIL ES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN $1.00 for either size. Sent postpaid upon receipt of price C. E. RIKER Dept. 3, 1208 Broadway, New York RO,

Between 29th and 3oth Streets OFFICES FOR RENT vV in the KOLIAN “@ BUILDING HOR ifth Avenue en 34th and 365th Sts. pice Mm ~NEW YORK iwe a ox tre m@mMODERATE RENTS th atROOMS FACE ON Our Ml FIFTH AVENUE form NINTH FLOOR LECTRIC LIGHT LEVATOR SERVICE GOOD LIGHT Apply to VRACE S. ELY & CO. 27 West 3oth Street New York

NUE St.

B. Altman & Co. Stern Bros. James McCreery & Co John Wanamaker. Ehrich Bros. R. H. Macy & Co. Siegel Cooper Co. J. Daniell Sons & Sons. Saks & Co. Stern & Greenberg. Caswell, Massey & Co. Owl Drug Co.

James A. Hetherington. King & Lindo. BROOKLYN, N. Y. ourneay & Burnham. y A. D. Matthews & Sons. Abraham & Straus. H. Batterman & Co.

NEW YORK CITY. Parfumerie des Orkidées Lenthéric U

manufacturers of the great La Feéria Perfume have placed their Pro- ducts in the following stores: PHILADELPHIA, PA. Geo. B. Evans. Frank Morgan, 1629 Walnut St. BALTIMORE, MD. Mme. Emile Caye. Hochschild, Kohn & Co. also L. Friedman, Paterson, N. J. Chapman, White, Lyons Co., Knoxville, Tenn. Bashford, Burmeister Co. , Prescott, Arizona. G. C. Meisel, Port Huron, Mich. J. W. Cone, Waterbury, Conn. The Lyman Knox Co., L’t’d, Montreal, Canada. The T. Eaton Co., Hess Bros, Allentown, Pa. The Denver Dry Goods Co., Denver, Col. Toronto, Canada.

The Marion Strauss Millinery Co. The Smart Shop 11 West 36th Street

Shop. The early peep of our extensive Smart Fur Hats and Muffs and evening effects for Theatre, are now being shown at our

| It is not a genuine ** CONNELLY ”’ | unless the crown tip is an exact facsimile of the above woven in yellow silk on | black ground.

Established 1873. Ravies’ Hatter 1155 Broadway, New York ENGLISH ROUND AND WALKING HATS MAKER OF THE CELEBRATED Connelly Turban The following are our sole agents in their respective cities.

—

a anol? Constable cero In addition to their Stock of Colored Dress Fabrics, are showing a large assortment of rich designs in Black and Colored Embroidered Robes IN Cloth, Silk and Wool Barége, Nun’s Veiling, Crépe de Paris, &c., for Street and Evening Gowns. Droadway Kk 1916 Atveet, NU

Maison Mouveite 310 WasasH Avenue, Cuicaco, Itt. <. C, Hopt St. Paut, Minn. &. &. Spier Los ANGELEs, CAL. J. WD. Matthias Kansas City, Mo. IM. Manifold Hearn AcBany, N. Y. ¥. Hi. Cravis & Co. SALEM, OunIo Gradiep & Folep Corninea, N. Y. h. %. Quintan Ausurn, N. Y. hh. €. O' Mili New Beprorp, Mass. Jordan, Marsh & Co, Boston, Mass. mm, &, Wailace Minneapouis, MINN.

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C-M-C Hose Supporter ‘¢ The Kind That Clasps.” f 2 a} Cal Fastens The only without clasp that safety pins or absolutely buttons and will not tear holds firmly the finest without in- silk or lisle jury to the stocking. corset. Especially adapted to the straight- front corset. More effective than either belts or pads. HIP “CORSE r The Sembrih is a model especially adapted to figures where the hips have become too promi- nent. The hip coverings are made in one piece from top to bottom of the corset, and hence do not cut in on the hips as do most corsets with this appendage. The bust is a little higher than in the Me/ba and the improvement effected by wearing is immediate. THE WADE CORSET] gives the correct low bust, straight front, and long waist effect, without sacrificing COMFORT AND HEALTH. The Wade is flexible through an absolutely new method of inserting elastic between the stays. It brings out the individuality cf the figure, giving it interest instead of masking it. The Wade Corset does not force, but assists the figure into proper lines, giving correct poise without efforts. It is worn and endorsed by all the leading actresses and social leaders, as well as by physicians and teachers of physical culture. It promotes, instead of hinders, FREEDOM OF THE BODY. Beauty comes with health, and health is possible only with the The secret to both WADE CORSET. not worn them have never known real CORSET COMFORT. We will send you free a copy of the Wade Magazine, devoted to matters of beauty of form. proper corset. is THE Women who have The WADE CORSET commands the most refined patronage. DESCRIP Err Fic home- The s in three s! dges to kne iferent wid rds front, 2 zes are app een the tw kimona eff immed with Fronts r buttons on led above b« dion-plaite: -cuff into ht, ending pf shirred bl white mal 4 Blac k ished gold « IGHT FiGu ine figured ' The skirt Mme. E. Morrisom. The Morrison Corse is recommended as the most fashig able, durable and comfortable con ever shown, gives a perfect line q figure, and a most stylish appearang to every wearer. SOLD BY ALL LEADING STOREs., Brow OR SENT BY MAIL, POSTPAID W at top « Mercerized, 25 cents. Silk, 50 cents, T H E A D E C O M PA N Y Maker : te CORSETS, WAISTS AND ABDOMINAL BELTS * . fy MADE TO ORDER OR FITTED FROM STOCK ‘ West 32nd Street wt ia THE CLARK M’P’G Co., Makers NEW YORK? w. 330 STREET CHICAGO——34 WASHINGTON S&T. LONDON ENGLAND ‘es es wee > . BOSTON—HUNTINGTON CHAMBERS, MINNEAPOLIS:—608 NICOLLET AVE. 13 MARGARET 8T., New York waist line 657 Washington St., Boston PHILADELPHIA—254 SOUTH 16TH ST. KANSAS CITY—606 ALTMAN BUILDING CAVENDISH SQUARE, WEST ned by a fi e baby lami Fascinating Paris Novelties THE LITTLE FRENCH SHOP*® Philip Obenauer Formerly with the Alexandrine Co. Grean Building 19 East 33rd Street NecKwear, Gloves, Etc Exclusive Designs in Hair Ornaments, Veilings and Novelties Sample books of Veilings forwarded on request to any part of the country. Our New Glove to introduce $1.25 in all the latest shades Every Pair Guaranteed The expression which of every one on a COGSWELL’S Hot, Aching, The feet are a barometer of effect upon the other nerve centres. There’s life and health in Natural in its effect. cS. Ms 1133 BROADWAY, Dr. Cogswell, who is considered an in all their branches. “OH! HOW GOOD Immediate in its relief. Calms the itching and ccols the burning. sent securely packed and post-paid to any address in the U. S. If your druggist does not have COGSWELL Surgeon Chiropodist it Fees springs to the lips first application of FOOT TONIC Which Cools, Soothes, Rests and Quiets Tired, Nervous’ Feet the body’s physical state. A tonic strengthening to the nerves of the feet has a corresponding Cogswell’s Foot Tonic. Quiets the nerves. Price, $1.00 per bottle, it send direct to NEW YORK authority on the feet, and their ail- ments, will be pleased to answer all inquiries pertaining to them. MANICURING AND CHIROPODY The treatment of ingrowing nails a specialty. FACIAL MASSAGE given in the most approved and scientific manner. A corps of skilled assistants in attendance 536 haling hema true ! The Best at the Least Pri SAUNDERS’S BLOOM OF NINO d with leath roidered Fre sleeves are i t and have : vaby lamb | French kn et. Taffetz er plaited tla silk beave gh edge of t crown, S d left brim. EFT Figure. color taffet duated be e.uane’ 0 OOr, ” to a g blouse wais , and two ¢ t; centre bo: ed on oute Stitched | nlled brown s hed pale blue n long nap | mn velvet tv fancy bronze white quills h in brim. IDLE Fict dcloth over J. TOUZEAU SAUNDERS 312 Oxford St., London Has been for fifty years the F: avorite F Powder of English society women. delicacy, its effectiveness and its otfo-pieced, se merits are as thoroughly es stablished — ! the reputation of the English women td down of $on hips w use it, for clear and brilliant complex It is not often that the best article of kind is offered at the lowest price,! the price at which this standard F Powder should be retailed, 29c. pet is much below the price of similar, the shaped straps a yoke at ba Mn postillion ta t line; attach uated lengths panel, Thre less meritorious articles. S are tucke rever continu In three shades: Rose, White and Brunt ute single-bre collar, Belt For sale at all leading druggists and Three-qua Goods dealers d wi a with stitche WHOLESALE AGENTS Mt. Cloth str 3-7 West 22d Street, New ‘ agg Pig an of

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> a LS 7 Corse rst fashiog ‘able cong ct line ay appeara ( TISOI reet NDERS 1don avorite F omen, id its d tablished women omplexio rticle of price, | ndard F »c. per bf ilar, tho d Brunt ; and F rs lew Y DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS—SOCIETY—MUSIC—ART DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS | ] So on SY? ff N, 4 Sk ae eo Sie 77 NAS FRONT PAGE Err Ficure.—Deep delft blue French home-spun over same color taffeta. The skirt is three-pieced ; the front in three shallow box plaits stitched down iges to knee. Bands of black velvet trim ‘ferent widths in a graduated upward line rds front, and black velvet discs graduated zes are applied with top-stitching in space een the two lower bands. The loose coat kimona effect below a circular yoke-and immed with velvet bands and applied velvet Fronts rounded up at lower corners. Cut buttons on military collar. Bell sleeves ed above border band at outer part showing dion-plaited self-tone chiffon ; deep flare cuff into which the plaited chiffon is ht, ending in scallops over hand. Large of shirred black taffeta piped with black vel- white maline faces brim with black wings ft. Black wings and velvet ribbon trim ; ished gold cabuchon at front. iGHT Ficure.—Nut brown camel’s hair ine figured with white spot over brown taf- The skirt is in six gores with a graduated ce Brown velvet ribbon straps each seam g at top of flounce in bow with ends ; rows of velvet trim above flounce and two hem; full habit back. Fitted coat of mn velvet with slot seams ending in panels y waist line. Stitched taffeta designs trim, ned by a fine brown silk cord. Yoke of ¢ baby lamb strapped with velvet and bor- 4 with leather-color Russian lace. Hand- oidered French knots outline velvet straps. sleeves are in box plaits stitched in slot-seam t and have a graduated box-plaited flare be- aby lamb bands which are embroidered French knots and strapped on edges with et. Taffeta designs outlined by silk cord, er plaited tlare. Large hat of pastel tan long silk beaver with brown velvet latticed ghedge of brim. Brown bird at left on t crown. Shaded velvet nasturtiums under d left brim. PAGE 537 rT Ficure.—Russet brown corduroy over color taffeta. The skirt is in five gores, graduated box plaits at seams, stitched down dges to a graduated distance above hem. blouse waist has two graduated tucks at , and two groups of tucks on shoulders at tt; centre box plait stitched on edges; sleeve ed on outer part, finished with cuff for Stitched strap belt with harness buckle. illed brown silk stock and tie,-with hem- hed pale blue linen turn-over. Turban of m long nap beaver, with brim in soft folds, n velvet twist around crown, with ends fancy bronze buckle at back. Two brown white quills trim, with ends passed through hin brim. fiopte Ficurry.— Bronze green French dcloth over same color taffeta. The skirt pieced, seamed at centre front and back, te double inverted plaits give fullness, hed down on edges for five inches. Small son hips with yoke effect, with stitched shaped straps in spaces between. The coat a yoke at back, continued as a panel, end- In postillion tabs with smoked pearl buttons at t line; attiched under tab. Small tucks of fuated lengths above stitched strap belt at sides panel. Three straps trim on yoke. The are tucked above waist line at sides of ever continued from yoke to match back, ue single-breasted, with deep bronze green collar, Belt fastens with smoke-pearl but- _ Three-quarter sleeve slightly flared, fin- dwith stitched edge strap, with button in Cloth strap over self-tone moiré un- leeve, strap wristband closely,stitched. Rus- turban of plaited black and white felt braid, trimmed with black velvet and coque plume. Two jet cabuchons on deep turned-up brim at back. Ricut Ficure.—Light gray French broad- cloth over same color taffeta. The skirt is three-pieced with a circular flounce from beyond plaits on front gore, which graduates up at front showing an attached border band heavily stitched. Stitching edges plaits at sides of front gore to top of side flounce ; the box plaits ex- tend over border band to hem ; double inverted plaits give fullness at back. The French blouse coat has fronts bordered by a heavily stitched band, that passes through slashes in cape at back and front, and ends in two postillion tails from under a stitched strap belt. Rows of stitching border cape; high military collar closely stitched ; gray silk passementerie ornament with knotted cord ends, finished with tassels. Tucked vest front of pearl gray moiré with box plait at centre front hand-embroidered in pale gray silk currant and leaf design. Passemen- terie ornaments above waist line, crossing vest front. The sleeves are of two circular bells, the lower one graduated ; borders stitched to match cape. Close-fitting undersleeve fasten- ing with moiré-covered buttons. Picture hat of long nap," light gray, silk beaver. Two rows of black velvet ribbon edge brim, ending at back in loops and streamers. Velvet pansies under brim in violet, white, castor and burnt orange. Coffee-color lace scarf draped on crown, caught with steel buckle above back bow. PAGE 539 Lert Ficure.—Matinée of 1ose pink crépe de chine, accordion-plaited below an Empire yoke of white French répoussé lace with folds of the crépe simulating tucks at intervals. Shoulder collar of the lace continued ‘1 jabot effect on edges of fronts and border ruffle on hem. Short sleeve cap of crépe with répoussé lace below to elbow, where a deep graduated ruffle finishes. Two tucks of the crépe above elbow. A single tuck on collar. Mippte Ficure.—Pale rose crépe de chine over a white taffeta slip trimmed with folds of the crépe de chine. The crépe is tucked at back to waist line, from which point it is slashed to hem, at sides it is slashed into a panel, with fronts falling loose in stole effect, the soft ribbon sash girdle passing under and knotted loosely in long-waisted effect. Hems of panels attached by pink silk cross-stitching. Shaped shoulder collar of Valenciennes lace continues in jabot rever. Elbow sleeve slashed to show white silk undersleeve which is trim- med with crépe bands and finished with a full deep ruffle of iace. Hem of crepe sleeve at- tached by silk cross-stitching. RicuTt Ficure.—Negligée of pale pink crépe de chine with row of fancy openwork hand- stitching in full fronts. Back fitted by tucks, which flare into fullness below waist line, and the sleeves are cut in one piece with back and fronts in wing effect. Fullness in fronts in tucks to shoulder by sleeve and shirring beyond. The shaped shoulder collar is of figured Venise net with Venise lace edge, and from this the lace continues in jabot ruffle border on fronts, and as flounce at hem. Lace ruffles finish sleeves, edging wing sides to hem of skirt. Soft pink taffeta shoulder bows and sash girdle, ti:e latter drawn through slits at sides and tied in long-waisted effect at front. Upper Mippte.— Pink crépe de chine dres- sing jacket in surplice effect, with pink silk star stitching at under arm and bias back seams. Pink silk feather-stitching, finished hem above a soft ruffle of fine Oriental lace. The sleeves are graduated to a point, finished with feather- stitching above lace frill, and star-stitching at seam. Wide shoulder collar at front, which is in a shallow square across shoulders at back, where there is star-stitching at seam. Lace ruffle borders with feather-stitched hem above. Pink ribbons tie at front. Upper Ricut.—Apple blossom pink crépe de chine dressing jacket with attached circular skirts, drawn at waist by a pink ribbon under a Venise lace band. Venise lace insertions on fancy collar, lace to match borders hem. Elbow sleeves with circular flare ruffle slashed to head at inner seam, headed and bordered by Venise insertion. Pink ribbons tie the surpliced fronts at neck, PAGE 540 Deep heliotrope velvet costume with elabor- ate hand embroidery, combined with taffgta ap- pliqué in self-tone and some paler harmonizing shades, Bands of ermine trim. Ermine cape with long pointed scarf ends at front, storm col- lar and small vest with pendant tails; muff to match with circular side ruffles. Toque of fur and velvet. PAGE 543 Uprer Lert.—Trouville hat of long nap silk beaver, geranium shades, with moire velvet crown caught by cut steel ornament in centre. The drop back is in soft folds draped to the front and tied in kerchief knot with velvet brought over centre. Lower Lerr.—Large flat hat of shirred snuff brown taffeta, with leather-colored Vene- tian lace on upper brim. Soft crown of shirred silk ; dark brown velvet ribbon with lace me- daliion on end. Pale tan material rosette at left. Mippte Ficure.—Georgette hat of black Chantilly lace spangled with steel, faced with soft folds of white maline with chou under back brim. Shirred crown with a draped lace rim, a black spangled aigrette is at left of front. Shoulder cape of gray and white marabout with accordion-plaited white chiffon scarf ends tied with black velvet ribbon. Upper Ricut.—Large hat of shaded moose beaver felt toning blue on edges. Rows of narrow accordion-plaited pale blue ribbon trim crown, with rosettes of ribbon and moose- colored velvet above and under edge of brim at left of front having a smoke pearl ca- buchon edged with cut steel in centres. White marabout and shaded natural marabout under raised brim at left. Folds of ribbon on ban- deaux. Lower RicuHt. — Russian turban with drooped front and high close-fitting back, with crown of Russian sable. Brim of shirred brown maline with Persian band. Baby blue ribbon streamers at back tied at ends towards left side. Brown aigrettes. PAGE 547 Trousseau set of night-gown, drawers and chemise in white linen batiste. The night- dress has half-fitting back, group of tucks at centre front, which is in full panel effect, out- lined by inserticns of Valenciennes lace. Hem- stitched hem, with border ruffle of lace to match insertion. Kimona elbow sleeves, with tucked medallion and insertion above hem ; deep lace ruffle on edge. White satin ribbon bows. The drawers at upper left are flare, with insertion finishing at sides in scrolls, with tucked medal- lion between. Lace frill on borders; white satin ribbon bows. Chemise at upper right has insertion edging neck and outlining full front, which is tucked at top, with insertions of lace across tucking. Hemstitched hem, with Val- enciennes lace ruffle. Satin ribbon bows on shoulder. Lert oF Mippte.—Boléro corset-cover of white linen batiste, with insertions of deep points of Valenciennes, pointed down from neck at front and up from waist line at back, Nar- row edging around neck and armholes ; pink ribbon run through beading. The fancy neck stock at left below is of white linen batiste, edged with rose batiste, graduated lace piece in- serted in centre. Set of collar and cuffs at right, with border of hand-drawn work and fancy design. Ricut Ficure.—Straight front corsets of Pompadour batiste, with dainty stripes of pink rosebuds. New attachment of white satin garter ribbons to slip through loops on stock- ings Fig. 6642.— Blue cloth pattern gown, border- ed with a heavy black camel’s hair finish over blue taffeta. The skirt has a flare flounce effect in the camel’s hair finish. The collarless Eton coat has single-piece back and semi double- breasted fronts, slightly bloused with fulness in plaits at waist line. The wide shoulder collar which extends to waist line as borders of fronts, is of the camel’s hair border, is edged by a navy blue velvet band, with a latticed black fancy braid beyond. Designs in stitched black taffeta trim. Three-quarter bell sleeves with triple border flares of the camel’s hair; graduated up at outer part and trimmed with black silk pas- sementerie ornament, with pendant ends. Taffeta lower sleeve ; velvet cuffs and belt. Continental hat of white beaver, faced with crushed black velvet. Black velvet ribbon and cluster of green rose berries and leaves trim. Fig. 6643.—Pine green French broadcloth over same color taffeta. The skirt has a front gore, with circular tunic sides and attached circular flounces. A deep tuck borders the tunic and upper flounce, and rows of black silk braid trim hem of the lower one. The blouse Eton coat has attached postillion tails, edged by black broadcloth, hand-embroidered in black. The military collar and circular yoke are of the em- broidered black cloth; below it there is a double box plait in the back, stitched down on edges, and three stitched plaits at either side of the double-breasted front. Black cloth straps with black velvet buttons trim front above waist line. Two similar straps with buttons on full sleeve ; embroidered black cloth cuffs. Green cloth belt trimmed with rows of braid. Black beaver hat, with black lace scarf draped around crown, through which a black v~l-et ribbon is twisted. Cut steel buckle at back, encs of scarf fall over brim. Clusters of shaded silvery green velvet leaves face under brim at either side towards back. Fig. 6644.—Silver gray, light weight French broadcloth over same color taffeta, The skirt 1s three-pieced with a very deep flounce at sides and back, shirred at top with tiny tucks in groups of two, three and four, at four- inch intervals. Stitched tab straps trim over hem. The yoke of waist is circular, shirred with tucks, and below the fullness is arranged in box- plait effect, with tinted gray filet lace insertion above waist line. The deep filet lace bertha is also tinted to tone of cloth, and has stitched cloth straps on edge, pointed at top. Filet lace collar; three straps of green velvet trim at top of yoke, short velvet scarf tie. Straps of velvet in vest effect between bertha fronts, with wider velvet scarf enas from lower edge. Green vel- vet crush girdle. Two shirred ruffles form sleeves, with close-fitting lower sleeve strapved with narrow green velvet folds and trim- med with velvet buttons. Gray felt hat trim- med with dark gray ostrich plume. Ostrich feather banding edges brim. Gray velvet rib- bon bows held by French gray silver buckles, Gray velvet pipes edge of brim. Fig. 6645.—Pastel cinnamon brown French broadcloth over same color taffeta. The skirt is in nine gores with triple box plaits at back and double inverted box plaits at side gore seams headed at graduated distances above hem by turned straps bordered by rows of stitching. The front seam is lapped and stitched, and has cross tab straps from edges. The Eton coat has attached postillion skirts slashed to waist line at centre back, and trimmed with two overlapping stitched straps down either edge. Single-piece back, and slightly double- breasted bloused fronts, with two rows of tiny dull silver buttons in groups of three, with spaces between groups. Stitched tab straps trim. Double circular cape ending in front of shoulders, turnover. Circular collar of brown velvet edged with white cloth with black silk cord loop and dull silver buttons. Cuffs to match. Large sleeve trimmed with stitched cross-straps. Brown velvet belt, soft scarf of panne satin in shade of velvet with fringe across

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ends. Brown beaver hat trimmed with velvet band. Soft brown ostrich tips in two shades, and silver buckle. Fig. 6646.— Navy blue French broadcloth. The skirt has a deep yoke continuing as a front go-e, with two box-plaited gores on either side and a triple box plait back breadth. A fancy black braid outlines yoke. The waist opens at back and is in crosswise double tucks below the circular yoke which at front extends in stole effect to belt and is embroidered in two shades of blue Saxony yarn. Fancy braid borders. Pointed cap above box plaits at top of bishop’s sleeve ; braid outlines, and also edges the em- broidered cuff. Blue velvet crush belt. Col- lar to match cuffs. Large hat of navy blue beaver felt trimmed with velvet barred satin rib- bon and blue ostrich plumes. Fig. 6647.—Seal-brown French broadcloth over same color taffeta. The skirt has a deep pointed hip yoke, below which it is in five box- plaited gores. A band of Persian trimming outlines yoke, piped on either edge with seal- brown velvet. The coat is in box plaits, stitched down in slot-seam effect, blousing slightly all around at waist line over a soft vel- vet girdle. Persian trimming piped with velvet gives the boléro outline, and straps cross the stole tie of velvet, which is finished with self- tone fringe across ends. Military collar and shallow yoke of the velvet. Persian collar top. Rows of small silver buttons trim fronts at inner edge of boléro band. Persian band between upper and box-plaited parts of bishop sleeve ; velvet cuff. Sable muff. Beige beaver hat, edged with sable. Clusters of shaded orange velvet flowers under raised brims. Steel buckle flat on crown, with two sable tails. Fig. 6648.—Dotted green velvet over same color taffeta. The skirt is in five gores, the front panel being of heavy crushed black vel- vet, which continues as a graduated flounce. Sides and back in box plaits tucked on edge, flaring at a graduated distance below waist line. A fancy black silk braid outlines front gore and top of flounce in latticed design. The French coat has tucked shoulder yoke extending as outer part of the bishop sleeves. Demui-vest fronts and lower blousing part of coat is of the crushed velvet, as is the lower part of sleeves. Lattice braid outlines. Collar, vest front and cuffs of white velvet striped with black. Girdle of black crushed velvet. Large hat of short- nap white beaver, with ermine edging brim. Black velvet and a long black ostrich plume trim. Fig. 6649.—Brown camel’s-hair zibeline flecked with a deeper brown spot, over brown taffeta. The skirt is in seven box-plaited gores, the plaits strapped at top with bands piped with brown velvet ending in points at a graduated distance above hem where four narrow velvet straps trim. Slot seams flaring at line of straps. Box-plaited blouse coat with slot seams between the plaits, which are strapped with velvet, piped pointed bands below a shallow shoulder yoke at back and front. Brown velvet col- lar, edged with stitched fold. Three-quarter flare sleeves, bordered with narrow velvet bands. Taffeta undersleeve with velvet strapped cuff. Sable hat, trimmed with bronze buckle and biack quills. Brown velvet belt. DRESS ON THE STAGE Gowns Worn 1n Aunt JEANNIE Err Ficgure.—Gown of silk muslin in ] mauve and white. The girdle is of mauve panne velvet, and the waist and sleeves are trimmed with pipings of the same material and rhinestone buttons. Soft vest and undersleeve of lace. Pearl collar. Seconp Ficure.—Tan cloth gown trimmed with black velvet, heavily embroidered. Yoke and undersleeve of lace. Tuisp Ficure.—Gown of yellow silk, veiled with different shades of orange chiffon. Over- dress of cream-colored spangled net, embroi- dered with an elaborate design of lilies. The net overdress is scalloped at the bottom, show- ing innumerable ruchings of shaded orange chitfon, The waist is an elaborate arrangement of net, lace, orange velvet, white chiffon and seed-pearl tassels. Flowing sleeve of lace, em- broidered with spangles and caught at the elbow with chains of pearls. Orange velvet girdle with long ends. FourtH kicure.—Waist of white chiffon and silver spangles. with cuff of lace. white lace, Full sleeve, Flared skirt of gray satin. . tN Fos [8\e Re oe SOC Kerker DIED Murray.—On Fri., 17 Oct., at the resi- dence of her parents, 57 East 66th St., New York city, Beatrix Alice, youngest daughter of Alice Rathbone and J. Archibald Murray, aged I year and 5 months. Van Rensselaer.—On Sun., 12 Oct., at the Manhattan Hotel, New York city, Mary Thorne, daughter of the late Jacob B. Carpen- ter and wife of Rev. Stephen Van Rensselaer, of Monticello, N. Y. ENGAGED Brown-Jenkins.— Miss Elsie Woodbury Brown, daughter of the late Frank Gould Brown, to Mr. Thomas Carrol Jenkins, of Baltimore. De Lamornaix-Waddington.—Mlle. Charlotte Sallandrouze de Lamornaix to M. Richard Waddington. Hernandez-Ingalls. — Miss Héléne Hernandez, daughter of Mrs. F. Hernandez, of Orange, N. J., to Mr. Percy Ingalls, of Montclair, N. J. Hollins-Bourne.—Miss Ethel Hollins, daughter of Mr. Frank C. Hollins, to Mr. Arthur Keeler Bourne. Lea-Hudson.—Miss Marjorie Vaughan Lea, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Lea, of Philadelphia, to Mr. Percy Kierstede Hudson. ™ Robinson-Chetwynd.—Miss Augusta Jay Robinson, daughter of the late Edmund Randolph Robinson, to Commander Louis Wentworth P. Chetwynd, R. N. Sard-Clark.—Miss Gertrude Sard, daugh- ter of Mr. George Sard, of Albany, to Mr. George C. Clark, Jr. Schenck-MacDonald. — Miss Mabel Schenck, daughter of the late Allen Schenck, to Mr. Joseph Brewster MacDonald. Stevenson—Hungerford.—Miss Helen Hughes Stevenson, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. George Stevenson, of Philadelphia, to Mr. Victor Hungerford. Tiffany-Butler.—Miss Isabel Perry Tif- fany, daughter of Mr, Henry Dyer Tiffany, to Mr. John Morris Butler, of Ogontz, Penn. Underwood-Dennison. — Miss _ Pearl Livingston Underwood, daughter of Mr. Frank Livingston Underwood, to the Rev. Hopkins Dennison. Ward-Tew.—Miss Alice Ward, sister of Mr. Reginald Henshaw Ward, to Capt. Cyril Blackburn Tew. WEDDINGS TO COME Bullard-Riker.—Dr. William Bullard and Miss Anna Mary Riker, daughter of Mrs, Daniel S. Riker, will be married on Wed., 29 Oct., in St. Bartholomew’s Church. Degener-De Saulles.—Mr. Rudolph Degener and Miss Caroline Belmont De Saulles, daughter of Mr. Arthur De Saulles, will be married on Tue., 25 Nov., at the residence of the bride’s parents. Kip-Jones.—Mr. Henry Spies Kip and Miss Frances Coster Jones, daughter of the late Alfred Renshaw Jones, will be married on Sat., 25 Oct., in the Church of the Incarnation. Loyd-Morris.— Mr. Stacy Barcroft Loyd and Miss Eleanor Burroughs Morris, daughter of Mr. Effingham B. Morris, will be married on Sat., 25 Oct., in the Church of the Re- deemer, Bryn Mawr, Penn. Mandeville-Drake. — Mr. Arthur Mandeville and Miss Helen Drake, daughter of the late Albert A. Drake, will be married on Wed., 12 Nov., in St. Thomas’s Church, Struthers-Jackson.—Mr. Robert Stru- thers, Jr., and Miss Helen F, Jackson, daugh- ter of Mr. Charles A. Jackson, will be married on Wed., 12 Nov., in St. James Church, Swords-Jacquelin. — Mr. Charles R. Swords and Miss Florence Jacqueiin, daughter of Mr. John H. Jacquelin, will be married on Wed., 19 Nov., in the Church of the Incarna- tion. WEDDINGS Hegeman - Huntington.— The Rev. Dr. James Winthrop Hegeman, formerly of Christ Church, Riverdale-on-Hudson, and Miss Isabelle Lord Huntington, daughter of Mr. and Mrs, Randolph Huntington, of Oyster Bay, were married on Wed., 15 Oct., in the Church of the Heavenly Rest. The Rev. Henry M. Washburne officiated, assisted by the Rev. Dr. W. R. Huntington, of Grace Church. Pres- ent were: Mr. and Mrs, James Wynkoop, Rev. and Mrs. Roderick Terry, Mr. George Foster Peabody, Mr. and Mrs. Archer P. Huntington, Mr. and Mrs. John P. Riker, Col. and Mrs. Robert Townsend, Rev. and Mrs. George Greenville Merrill, Mrs. J. West Roosevelt, Mr. James R. Brevoort, Col. and Mrs. Spencer Borden, Judge and Mrs. E. P. Coyne, Dr. and Mrs. Holbrook Curtis, Mr. and Mrs. Stanley Dexter, Mr. and Mrs. Wil- liam J. Youngs, Mr. and Mrs. G. Innes, Mr. and Mrs. John A. Roosevelt, Rev. Archdeacon Tiffany, Rev. Archdeacon Ashton, Miss Eloise Breese, Mr. Percy R. Pyne, Mr. Moses Tay- lor Pyne, Mr. Spencer Trask, Gen. and Mrs. Alexander S. Webb, Mrs. Maturin Delafield, Mr. and Mrs. G. M. Carnochan, Mr. and Mrs, Dallas B. Pratt, Mr. and Mrs. W. W. Appleton, Mr. John A. Weeks and Mr. and Mrs. Edward S\ an. Potts-Jacquelin.—Mr. Robert Brevoort Potts and Miss Helen Regil Jacquelin, daughter of Mr. John H. Jacquelin, were married on Wed., 22 Oct., at the residence of the bride’s parents. Robbins-Clark.—Mr. Wolcott Phelps Robbins, and Miss Elizabeth Clark, daughter of the late Col. Henry Clark, were married on Wed., 22 Oct., in the Church of the Incarna- tion. The Rev. William M. Grosvenor offi- ciated. Matron of honor, Mrs. William Bay- ard Blackwell; bridesmaids, Miss Ethel D. Spears, Miss Josephine Ogden, Miss Marjory M. E. Pegram and Miss Genevieve Phelps Robbins; best man, Mr. George P. Robbins; ushers, Mr. Montgomery Hunt Clark and Mr. Frederick M. Johnson. DINNERS Ellis.—A dinner was given on Fri., 17 Oct., by Mr. Rudolph Ellis, at Fox Hill, Bryn Mawr. The occasion was the meeting of the Farmers’ Club. Present were: Col. Edward De V. Morrell, Mr. Clement Griscom, Mr. C. C. Harrison, Mr. Kreck. Mr. De Witt Cuyler, Mr. Morris, Mr. William S. Ellis, Mr. Wayne McVeagh, Mr. Wilson, Mr. A. J. Cassatt, Senator Kean, Mr. Hamp- ton L. Carson, Judge Biddle, Mr. Wilbur, Mr. Thomas Dolan, Colonel Snowden, Mr. George F. Baer, former Senator Don Cameron, Mr. Deming and Mr. William Struthers. DANCES Junior Cotillon.—Dances to be given at Sherry’s on 2 Dec., 5 Jan. and 3 Feb. Thursday Evening Dinner Dances. —The first of this season’s Thursday evening dinner dances will be given at Delmonico’s on Thu., 22 Jan., the second and last will take place on 19 Feb. Tuxedo.—The annual ball of the gover- nors of the Tuxedo Club will be given at the club house, Fri., 31 Oct. Saturday Evening Dancing Class.— The first of this season’s Saturday evening Danc- ing Classes will be given at Delmonico’s on 13 Dec. Staten Island.—A series of subscription dances will be given at the Hbtel Castleton this winter under the patronage of Mrs. H. Eugene Alexander, Mrs. Henry M. Dunn, Mrs. Oliver T. Johnson, Mrs. Edwin M. Felt, Miss Dukes, Mrs, Gugyae Irving, Mr. Eugene DuBois and Mrs. Charles G. Bush. POLO Lakewood.—The Lakewood polo team de- feated that from Rockaway on the Georgian Court field on Sat., 18 Oct., in the final match for the Ladies’ Cups. DOGS Ladies’ Kennel Association.—The second annual dog show of the Ladies’ Kennel Association opened at the Madison Square Gar- den on Tue., 21 Oct., and will close Fri., 24 Oct. Committee: Mrs. J. L. Kernochan, Mrs. O. W. Evans, and Miss Alger. exhibitors are: Mrs. James L. Kernochan, Mrs. Jules Vatable, Mrs. Winthrop Ruther- furd, Mrs. Thomas Hastings, Mrs. Perry Bel- mont, Mrs. Herman Duryea, Mr. Walter Johnson, Miss C. C, Whitney, Miss Bird, Among’ Miss Frances Haddon, Mrs. Richard 5 Davis, Mrs. E. B. Chase, Mr, Sydney Mrs. H. E. Smyth, Mr. W. T. Howard Gould, Mrs. L, Trowbridge W. T. Bull, Miss Gertrude A. F O. H. P. Belmont, Mr, Freak Go ter to Chili, Cameron, Mr. Foxhall P. Keene ece in plac Miflin Wharton, Miss Cornelia Peabo same! H. Hunnewell and the Misses de Cope iy. —Mr. Pe has been in place of } ilson.— FORE HUNTING ler.—Sailin p. G. Fairc! Hempstead.—A drag-hunt was pelllind Mrs. H. the Meadow Brook Club on Sat., 18 lied Dr. and Following the hounds were Samuel Wij,ilaf Walde Freckles; W. Scott Cameron, the actnfiiiess C. von F. H., on Tartan ; Mrs. James L. Kerngd d Mrs. R. on Warlock; Mrs. Maxwell Stey hcania.—/ Bo-Peep; Sidney Dillon Ripley, on \gimee Boker © Mr. and Mrs. W. N. Dykman, Mry, F aie S. Chapin lister, and Mr. Singleton Van Shaick. Following by the road were Mr, W. Cameron, Mrs. Albert Pease, Mr, anj R. Livingston Beekman, Mr. Maxwell § son, Mrs, S. D. Ripley, Mr. and Mn, Thy Hitchcock, Jr.; Miss Lewis, Miss Hunt: August Belmont, Jr.; Mr. Theodore Haven W. Crosby | eanic. — nd Mrs. Julius Bach DeWitt Cc . * j and the N and Miss Edythe Nichols. Sand Bn INTIMATIONS 1 r.. Mr. an Barney.—Mr. and Mrs. Charles T H. R. Ives ney and Miss Helen Barney, who arrive met: C- Leeds from Europe last week, have gone to Summed Mrs. C. ampton, L. I., for the remainder of the mms Mr. and Cassini.—The Countess Marguerite qe: H. R sini, will sail for this country, Nov. 1, 00 John L. Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse. Mr. and Field.—Mr. and Mrs. William Ogi. F. Ke Field are in Italy, where they will remiggaele Dewey, the greater part of the winter. isses. Dunc Fleischhauer-Koch.— Announceme # ngs ind Mr, Fit: made of the engagement of Miss Eke Fleischhauer, daughter of Mr, and Mn. Fleischauer, to Mr. Monroe Koch of New} and Brooklyn. The engagement At will be celebrated informally on Sunday, x November, at the residence of the prose bride, 348 East soth Street, New York ( The wedding takes place early in January, Gurnee.—Mr. Walter S. Gurnee, and Miss Delia Gurnee, have returned § Bar Harbor, Me. Oelrichs.— Mrs. Herman Oelrichs h turned from the Hot Springs of Virginia in town for the winter. Scott.—Mr. and Mrs. Winfield Scott remain at Far Rockaway until late in the tumn. S42 as = gley.—M of musical prf-Astoria at a quarte Metropo: ppear. orksten.— r. Theodor on Fri. eve ston Syr nd public Speyer.—Mr. and Mrs. James Seg, symphon who arrived from Europe last week, mienings, 6 Scarborough-on-the-Hudson. 19 Mr., ; Stuyvesant.—Mr. and Mrs. Rutheiec 17 I Stuyvesant are at their farm at Tranquillity. Mie will inclu Vanderbilt.—Mr. and Mrs. William Vanderbilt, Jr., are at Great Neck, L,I. Lakewood.—Late arrivals : Mr. and T. J. Oakley Rhinelander, Miss A. Phi Miss Alice Kortright, Mr. and Mrs. Wil Agnew Paton, the Misses Nash, Mr. Ho Heink, } pfield-Zeisle Dy Mr. L: 1, and Mr. mming.— the sopran C. Brokaw and Mr. Irving C. Brokaw. aine Festi Tuxedo.—Late arrivals: Mr. and le eeeatiin Frederick A. Snow, Mr. and Mrs. George Miirel,— A Forsyth, Mr. and Mrs. R. Horace Gala}, Engel, tt Miss Natica Rives, Miss C. Adams, Mt. @i¥ed. af-erno. H. Hagan, Mrs. R. Dart, Mr. James Du oranme : Mr. Henry Barbey, Mr. James Brown ! ter, Mr. William H. Bliss, Miss Bliss, MiB.i¢°' ¢--- Ceci] D. Landale, Mr. H. G. Landale, y Love's lik F. E. Guest, Mr. Lionel Guest, Mr. 4 Robert B Wagstaf, Jr.. Mr. H. B. Weaver, Clarence Cary, Mr. Charles B. Vannostr Mr. and Mrs. John J. McCook, the M McCook, Mr. and Mrs. W. M. Smith, John P. Conduit, Mr. and Mrs. Thoma Fowler, the Misses Fowler and Mr. Edward Van Cortlandt. oe Charles dc hza pour vio to the Hon Charles de § eenen Tennyson drops Fa DIPLOMATIC INTIMATION son) mo: hes Interm Dodge.—Mr. H. F. Percival Dodge,! age Hi Second Secretary of Embassy at Berlin, bas WB ics in appointed First Secretary in place of Mr. son. Hitt.—Mr. R. F. Reynolds Hitt, now Secretary of Embassy at Paris, has bee ein Stern b nderschonen ussten’s dic Nobles. pointed Second Secretary at Berlin in PMR nsche)_ Mr. Dodge. d M. And Jackson.—Mr. John B. Jackson, Helen He First Secretary of Embassy at Berlin, ba Tibiccoh, 1H. appointed Minister to Chili in place y-—Vibolir Wilson, ¢ ‘ n Hall on

Page 11

_Mr. Peter Augustus Jay, of Rhode ‘jas been appointed Third Secretary at in place of Mr. Hitt. ; ‘ison.—Mr. Henry L. Wilson, now ; has been appointed Minister

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ter to Chili : oa Mr a in place of Mr. Charles S. Francis, Peabody, ae 1c Cope J = FOREIGN TRAVEL ler.—Sailing for Genoa, Sat., 18 Oct.: _G. Fairchild and Mrs, F. Lewis Clark, It Was gi 4 Mrs. H. S. Jewett and the Misses Jew- Sat., 18 @llied Dr. and Mrs. J. E. Willetts. uel Wilesiiiiaf Waldersee. —Sailing Sat., 18 Oct.: the acting immess C. von Brunnow, Mrs. Forster Har- L. Kero d Mrs. R. F. Starr and ooo og ” Stev bcania.—Arriving Sat., 1 ct.: rs. ey, on ars of Philadelphia, Mr. and Mrs, , Mrs, Fle S. Chapin, Mr. and Mrs. Herbert Cool- haick, W. Crosby Oates, and Miss R. L. Whit- Mrs, W be an MM wanic. — Arriving Wed., 15 Oct.: axwell Seat; Mrs. Alfred de Cordova, Mr. and 1 Mn. Th Julius Bache, Mr. Louis Webb, Mr. and os Hunt; i .witt Cuyler, Mr. and Mrs. P. Y. io ; and the Misses Fachiri, Daniel Milmo, fr. and Mrs. Raoul Duval, Mr. Edward it and the Misses Boit, Mr. Mark Hop- . Jr. Mr. and Mrs. Henry S. Kerr, and harles T. wa H. R. Ive Goddard, Miss Goddard, Mr. 10 arrived r: C. Leeds, Mr. Clarence A. Postley, gone to Sqamend Mrs. C. T. Barney and Miss - WwW. -of the moms Mr. and Mrs. J. Wilmer Biddle, Mr. larguerite QS. =H. R. Bishop, Mr. F. C. Bishop, Nov. 1, ggmJoha L. Cadwalader, Mrs. Clarence Mr. and Mrs. Julian de Cordova, Mr. ‘illiam 0 rs. F. K. Curtis, Mr. and Mrs. Charles will remain fame Dewey, Mrs. John P. Duncan and isses Duncan, Mr. Center Hitchcock, nnouncemaamend Mrs. James Speyer, Mr. J. H. Wels- Miss Elsie d Mr. Fitzhugh Whitehouse. and Mr. | ons 1 of Ney KS ent At MUSIC Sunday,

2S SSS <— == oe the prospeg ‘w York gley.—Mr. Morris Bagley announces a | January. HE of musical mornings to be given at the Gurnee, Siyrf-Astoria on Mon. 1, 8, 15, and 22 returned #3 at a quarter past eleven. Leading artists Metropolitan Opera House Company ppear, orksten.—A song recital will be given r. Theodore Bjorksten in Mendelssohn on Fri, eve., 14 Nov. ston Symphony Orchestra.—Con- nd public rehearsals will be given by the Symphony Orchestra in Carnegie Hall enings, 6 Nov:, 11 Dec., 1§ Jan., 19 19 Mar., and Sat. afternoons, 8 Nov., elrichs ha Virginia field Scott ite in the ‘ames Spe week, a 8. Ruthe Dec., 17 Jan., 21 Feb., and 21 Mar. ranquilliy, s will include Mme. Melba, Mme. Schu- - William Gi Heink, Mme. Kirby Lunn, Mme, ck, Le. pfield-Zeisler, Mr. Wan Rooy, Mr. Mr. and $$ A. Phi Mrs. Will Mr. Ho rokaw, {r. and } s. George race Gall ims, Mn. p, Mr. Lamond, Mr. Heerman, Mr. ], and Mr. Schroeder. mming.—Mrs. Shanna Cumming, who the soprano part in Verdi’s Requiem at aine Festival, will sing in the Oratoria y's rendition of St. Paul in November. hgel.—A recital of Compositions by S. o Engel, the Hungarian composer, will be ed. afternoon, 19 Nov.

ames Du , Dgramme : Brown iss Bliss, WS ¢ ise pnenbeeeupee ed Paolo Gallico andale, y Love's like a red rose, » Mr. , oe ne Susan Metcalf w — Charles de Kay. Vannostaliinza pour violon/ ....... Leopold Lichtenberg c, the Miggano + £ ccc A. ..cccee Paolo Gallico . tothe Honeyed Moon Smith, Charles de Kay. s. Thomaiear... ee... r. Edward A us . — . ..Julian Walker

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derschonen Monat Mai ...... = ussten's die Blumen die kleinen. - eee neh Paolo Gallico nschel.—Miss Winifred Smith, violin- dM. André Benoist, pianist, will assist Helen Henschel at her song recital in issohn Hall on Mon., 3 Nov. Y-—Violin recitals will be given in Men- " Hallon Tue., rx Nov., and Fri., 21 itt, now has beet lin in plam

Jackson, rlin, has place of

Nov., by Mr. Richard C. Kay, assisted by Miss Caroline Montefiore, soprano, and Herr Max Liebling, piano. Kneisel.—Six evening concerts will be given this season by the Kneisel Quartet in Mendel- ssohn Hall, Dates: 25 Nov., 16 Dec., 6 Jan., 3 Feb., 3 Mch., and 31 Mch. No af- ternoon concerts will be given. Assisting artists will be Mrs. Clara Damrosch-Mannes, Miss Helen Henschel, Mr. Ossip Gabrilowitsch, Mr. Marc Hambourg, Mr. Frederick Lamorfi, Mr. Arthur Whiting, and members of the Boston Symphony Orchestra. Among the works announced to be performed are: Henschel—Variations from quartet in E flat major. Sgambati—Quartet in C sharp minor, Op. 17. Tschaikowsky—Quartet in E flat minor, Op. 30, and sextet in D minor, Op. 70. R. Strauss Sonata in E flat major, Op. 18, for piano and violin. Haydn.—Quartet in D major, Op. 76, No. 2 Mozart — Quartet in F major, for oboe, violin, viola and violoncello. Beethoven—Quartets : In C minor, Op. 18; E flat, Op. 74; F minor, Op. 95; A minor, Op. 132. Schubert—Quartet in A minor, Op. 29; octet for string quintet, clarinet, horn, and bassoon, Op. 106. Brahms—String quartet in B flat, Op. 69, and pianoforte trio in C minor. Schumann—Quartet in A minor, Op. 41. Bach—Sonata for piano and violoncello. D’Indy—Suite (dans le style ancien), Op. 41, trumpet, two flutes, two violins, viola and violoncello. Guillaume Leken—Sonata for piano and violin, in G major. Mascagni.—A concert conducted by Sig- nor Mascagni was given on Sun. evening, 19 Oct., in the Metropolitan Opera House. Pro- gramme : Overture—I Vespri Siciliani (Orchestra)...... Verdi Romanza— Louisa Miller............eeeeee- Verdi Signor Caffetto.

ss Wises ethenminstattoses Interluaii— { Quarto, the Eternal City... .Mascagnj Atia fom Ero a Leahdse........ccsscssees Bottesin! Signora Pinto. Orchestra Selection. RR TN Th TI ooo sec cccsevcsseve ..Verd! Signora Bianchini Cappelli. ARGO DOR GRO cis ccsssesevcese Mozart Navarrini, Hyma1 to the Sun, from Iris.............. Mascagni Metropolitan Opera House.—A series of concerts will be given during the month of Nov., commencing Sun., 2 Nov. Walter Damrosch will conduct the orchestra. Soloists: Ossip Gabrilowitsch, the pianist; Mlle. Zélie De Lussan, Miss Charlotte Maconda, Miss Sherhah Cummings, Herr Anton Von Rooy, Herr Andreas Dippel, Gwylym Miles and M. Journet. Philharmonic.—The first public rehearsal and concert of the PhiJharmonic Society of New York will be given in Carnegie Hall on Fri. afternoon, 14 Nov. and Sat. evening, 15 Nov. Programme : Symphony, No. 5, E minor, op. 64..Tschaikowsky Ps aeeenniaycensSessetaomennse~ Herr Anton Van Rooy.

Prelude Symphonique, No. 1, in E flat..... Caetani New, first time. Herr Anton Van Rooy and Orchestra, The repertory for the remainder of the season will include the following works : Symphony, No. 7, A major, op. 92......Beethoven ia No. 2, D major, op. 73......... Brahms “ No, 1, B flat major, op. 38...Schumann “ G minor (Keechel §50)......... Mozart * No, 2, E flat major (new), Weingaertner vd No. 3, The Demon, op. 18, (new), Napravnik « Romeo and Juliet, op. 17....... Berlioz Soli, Chorus and Orchestra, Concerto, for strings, G major............... Bach Prelude to Third Act, Die Meistersinger... Wagner Till Eulenspiegel, op. 28........... Richard Strauss Pugno.—Mr. Raoul Pugno, the French pianist, made his reappearance in America on Tue’, 21 Oct , in Carnegie Hall after an ab- sence of five years. He was assisted by Mr.

Walter Damrosch and his orchestra, Pro- gramme : Overture, Bartered Bride, (Orchestra)...... Smetana Concerto E flat major NO9Q...........000+- Mozart .I Allegro ° II, Andantino III, Rondo Presto—Menuetto—Presto Suite, La Farandole, (new) (Orchestra)...... Dubois Concerto, A minof, Op. 16.........:ccccceces Gneg I, Allegro molto moderato—Andante II, Allegro vivace—Andante—Allegro Scheff-Gregory.—Fraulein Fritzi-Scheff and Mr, Heath Gregory will give several joint song recitals this season. Sembrich.— Mme. Sembrich will give her only New York song recital in Carnegie Hall on Wed., 12 Nov. Programme will include German, French, Italian, English and Russian arias and songs from the old Italian period to the present time. Mme. Sembrich will be heard in grand opera as usual this winter, singing all of her old repertory and also appearing in Ernani, II Seraglio and probably La Bohéme. Wetzler.—Five concerts will be given by the Wetzler Symphony Orchestra this season in Carnegie Hall, Wed., 19 Nov., Tue., 2 Dec., Tue., 6 Jan., Thu., 5 Feb., and Tue., 24 Feb. Programme for Wed., 19 Noy.:

ubvoos Beethoven Schubert Symphony No, 5, C minor...... ° GOED CT SERGE .ccce isvcccesvecvcccece Mr. Anton van Rooy Prelude and Isolden’s Liebestod...... eooes Wagner a = —

TAB

[NoTE.—Readers of Vogue inquiring names of shops where dressing-table articles are purchasable should inclose stamped and addressed envelope for reply, and state page and date.] T is seldom I have occasion to speak with higher praise of any cosmetic than of a preparation for the removal of superfluous hair which has been extensively used by physi- cians. No disfiguration is more abhorred by women than the one for which this claims to be a permanent remedy. The hope of every one so afflicted, and the belief of scientific men has been that one day a depilatory would be found to cure the evil and thereby earn the gratitude of thousands. The preparation is an American production, evolved by much chemical experiment and a trained knowledge of the origin and conditions of hair growth. It claims to remove hair by chemical dissolution, and does not affect the flesh or skin in any way if the directions be care- fully followed. Most treatments of this kind are based on the principle of temporary relief—this has the end in view of the actual destruction of the hair follicle with the consequent death of the hair itself. This result is not claimed for the first trial, nor yet for the second, but beginning with the retarding of growth, it goes on little by little to sap the strength of the follicle from which the hair springs, and is said finally to re- move this unsightly and much dreaded disfigure- ment entirely. As there are very few methods which pro- mise more than temporary relief at best, it cer- tainly seems worth a trial, especially as the greater number are painful or dangerous, the latter leaving scars to bear witess to the very fact one has tried to hide. Electricity, which has been tried by many, may have its merits, but on the other hand your physician will tell you that it has been found a potent agent for promoting the growth of hair, so if the treatment miscarries think what a vista opens! An eminent specialist says: ‘No matter how careful the operator may be, the needle in about fifty per cent. of the introduc- tions will pierce the walls of the hair sac, and get into the surrounding tissue instead of follow- ing along down beside the hair till it reaches the follicle,’’ and yet the latter must be reached to achievethe desired result. It will be seen that the tiresome operation must be done again and yet again before it can be termed a success and there is always the danger of leaving scars behind to tell tales out of school. The idea of the present preparation is to dissolve the hair— it does not break or cut it off, but goes right to the root under the skin and melts it away. Electrolysis is out of the yuestion where the obnoxious growth appears in a downy fuzz on the chin or upper lip, for how can a needle be expected to search out the follicle of each of these tiny hairs, be it wielded with all the patience in the world? It is manifestly impos- sible and in this case the application of some other remedy is imperative. A second preparation put up by the same house is especially intended for use where there is a severe scalp wound and a razor cannot be used with convenience. The certificates of many doctors to the effect that they have found this liquid invaluable in such cases are shown in proof of its utility. The price is $1 a bottle. Before using this depilatory, if the skin be very tender or sensitive, a good cream should be ap- plied to tone it and get it into the proper con- dition ; after this apply the liquid. Never rub it in, but just pat it on with a little absorbent cotton rolled around the end of a small stick— a toothpick or burnt match will do if nothing better be at hand. Rubbing irritates the skin when anything of this nature is applied, and should be avoided. After the results are ac- complished, wipe gently away with plenty of pure soap and warm water. If there be the slightest irritation, apply a little more cream, which can be had for 25 cents and is a delicate emollient for daily use, to be used for many minor ills, such as chapped skin, sunburn and tan. If the hair to be removed grows from a large mole, a little alum dropped in warm water will prove good as a precaution. This will close the pores and obviate the slightest subse- quent unpleasantness. A mole is like a sponge and very absorbent, so that a much greater quantity of liquid would be sucked in than on any ordinary part of the skin, These precau- tions are not necessary with the present prepa- ration except in cases where the skin is excep- tionally delicate and tender. It removes the hair in a very few minutes, leaving no redness or irritation, An agreeable vegetable soap costs 25 cents a cake. This is intended especially for use where a soothing antiseptic article is needed, or for eruption and contagious diseases. It is also used for the bath and in the nursery. FORM OF SUBSCRIPTION To Publisher Vogue 3 West 29th Street, New York Sir: Inclosed please find Three Dol- lars for subscription to Vogue for one year, to be sent to Name_____ Address Vogue should be kept on file for reference. It is the best fashion paper, and subscribing for it is the only way to get its full benefit. ‘The low subscription price makes it almost as cheap to subscribe for a whole year as to buy single copies half the year. It costs only $3.00 to subscribe a whole year, but $5.20 to buy single copies at ten cents each for 52 weeks. The mail address can be changed as often as desired. Vogue at $3.00 a year is an exceptional opportunity to have the best fashion paper regu- larly at hand by mail at any address every week in the year.

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“VIYELLA” Reg'd) The fashionable flannel for FALL SHIRT WAISTS ** Viyella’’ is now being shown in the latest designs and color combinations, in- cluding printed effects and woven designs resembling silk in appearance. *¢ Viyella ’’ is stamped on every § yards. None genuine without the ** Viyella ”’ ticket. Avoid imitations! Refuse substitutes! *¢ Viyella ’’ Fall designs are now in the hands of all leading revail stores. DOES NOT SHRINK EFFECTS IN EMBROIDERY Gowns trimmed and orna- mented with Oriental hand Embroidery are strikingly rich. On cloth and velvet Oriental Embroidery will be a favored trimming. it hasa feature that is distinctly in- dividual and may be appli- qued to a waist or gown in 4 rg multitude of ways that is pleasing and at the same time attractive. A. A. Vantine & Co. 877 and 879 Broadway, N. Y. — A. Jaeckel & (; FURRIERS 37 Union Squar aA Automobile and Ope Coats of Squirrel, E; mine and other choi Peeves : 3-3 £3 STOLE BOAS OF RUSSIAN SABLE AND ERMINE FOR OPERA & DRESS A MAN’S GLOVE FOR WOMEN The Forsythe $1.50 Glove A special glove for Women, which we have spent years in pertecting. It is an ideal walking or shopping glove, with a style of its own, and is entirely superior to and unlike anything ever before offered for every day wear. Mannish in leather, cut and stitching; easy fitting ; long wrist ; large pearl button. At $1.50 absolutely un- equalled. Three shades of Tan; White, Black and Grey JOHN FORSYTHE THE WAIST HOUSE Broadway between 17th and 18th Streets New Yorx City Geo. F. C. GHooss FJmporter and Maker of fashionable fur Garments A complete line of Coats, Neckwear, Wuffs and Novelties is now on erbibition Cverpthing in furs 294 fifth Avenue : * Portfolio of Fashions Mailed on application Gt will prove interesting Get. 30th and 31st Streets, Mew ork MME. CULLY . DRESSMAKER AND IMPORTER 116 West 44th St. New York Telephone 5937-38 St. GOWNS FOR EVERY OCCASION Our newest trimmings and materials are now ready for inspection and among them will be found many designs which are absolutely exclusive and unique and will be seen only by our patrons. Telephone 246 Madison Square MARTIN & MART Announce that they have lately received their Au / tumn importations of WEST END HARNES and SADDLERY They also invite attention toa rare collection of SPORTING BOOK and prints—collected in England—and_ not to be obtained elsewhere in this country. In many i stances these works are en- tirely out of print. An unusual assortment of NEW PIG SKIN DESI This line embraces every- thing from pocket books to Dress Suit Cases. INSPECTION INVITED MARTIN & MARI 235 Fifth Avenue, N. 1713 Chestnut St., Phi

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| Oper: el, Er Choice \N SABLE A & DRESS Square ART vy have ir Au of RNES tention of 00h ted in to be in this iV in- are en- ent of ESI every- books “ED RT e, N. ‘Phi SIMPLE CLOTH GOWNS FOR DESCRIPTIONS SEE ‘‘ DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS- SOCIETY—MUSIC—ART "” 537 SECTION, PAGE I

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FAITH-BREAKING LABOR UNION S in the domain of ethics A the greatest of the trinity of qualities is charity so in the department of the world’s work the most vital quality is faith, Were it to become inopera- tive the existing complex systems of industry, commerce, finance, the whole civilization of the age would crumble. For faith is the foundation stone of human intercourse. In the course of ages in man’s progress up from savagery, this growth of faith in his fellows has been slow and so impercéptible that now although it has attained great proportions it is accepted as a matter of course and exceptional is the person who realizes it. Faith, to most men, has something to do with religion; it does not occur to them that every human being in a civilized community is constantly displaying faith on the one hand and justifying his fellows’ faith in him. It is not indeed possible to think of a relation in life in which it is not the vital principle. As to the material interests of life it is faith that moves them. For one thing it is promises to pay and not love that makes the world go round, for were the enormous volume of commercial and industrial transactions dependent for activity upon the amount of actual money that could be exchanged ‘spot cash,’’ commerce and industry would be crippled nearly to the limit of extinction. But also in an infinitude of minor transactions the word of man is accepted without question, and it must, if partial stagnation is not to reign. The superstructure of our civilization being then built upon faith in our fellows, what greater enemy of society can be con- ceived than he who breaks faith and by so much undermines whatever is best in human possession and human experience. There are those who clamorously insist that they are down-trodden and deprived of their just share of the world’s wealth ; these malcontents never cease from voicing the alleged iniquities of the employer. But curiously while holding all the rest of the world to the strictest account, arrogate to themselves the right to lie, to deliberately and authoritatively sign agreements for specified services at stipulated rates of payment for specially defined time-limits and yet when the whim seizes them, and often without pretense of any grievance whatever, they ignore their solemn compacts in every particular with as much unconcern as though their con- duct were not dastardly. They are devoid of shame in the matter. Indeed among the most conspicuous of the self-constituted rights of the labor unions (with very rare exceptions) is apparently the right to break faith. No grinding tyranny on the part of capital is as iniquitous as this playing fast and loose with contract, for it strikes at the root of every precious possession of the Suppose the laboring man in all his relations of life should have meted out to him the faith-breaking he so freely indulges in industrially—it might be his wife or his medical man or some other important factor in his life. Is it conceivable that he would regard with indifference, much less acquiesce in, their abrogation of contract for whim? And upon what grounds does the labor union base its claim to rise superior to the obligation which binds all other classes—that of being men of their word ? The mere fact of working with one’s hands and banding with others in association to gain recognition as an economic factor that has to be reckoned with, does not confer license to ride roughshod through the Decalogue. C3}

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, ’ n a) w = <) ~) w Z = e = Ss) < ; < ao aw z e. Pa an o a P4 < = u = ° = - SECTION ‘6 DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS SOCIETY—MUSIC—ART "’ FOR DESCRIPTIONS SEE

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HAPHAZARD JOTTINGS EXCELLENT MOVE—CAPITAL’S GRIEVANCES AGAINST HANDS—LAW OF KANSAS CITY Y. W. Cc. A. 'S MODERN MILL THE FOREST Eaders of Vogue must have noticed R the sharp admonishings to Young Women’s Christian Associations to imitate the activities of the Y. M. C. A., and it is a pleasure to vary the fault-finding by praise of an ambitious and laudable undertak- ing onthe part of the Y. W. C. A. of Kansas City, which is to establish a home for young women. There are numbers of young women who go to Kansas City, as they do, in fact to all cities, without well-defined plans, and it is to meet the needs of this class of girls, and others who are thrown on their own resources that the home has been established. A double dwelling-house has been secured, and it is to be completely furnished with whatever conduces to the comfort of the inmates, the furniture having all been given by private parties who were interested in the undertaking. The Board was led to think of establishing a home by the successful management of the luncheon rooms, where as many as two hundred and fifty girls lunch daily. The Kansas City Associ- ation is encouraged, also, by the experience of the Y. W. C. A. of St. Joseph, Missouri, which has a nicely furnished house in the down- town district that is a great benefit to numbers of factory and shop girls. It becomes a sort of young women’s club, where all receive the best advantages, and it is a pleasure, socially, to live there. * % * At a meeting of the New England Cotton Manulacturers’ Association among the excellent papers read was one by C. W. Dennet, on the management of mills. It was the opinion of the speaker that six factors are necessary for the successtul conduct of manu- facturing concerns. These are skilful management, capital, plant, technical knowledge, a trained and disciplined body of helpers, and an official selling or- ganization. Of managementand help Mr. Den- net said: *¢ The right management of help ina cotton mill has always been important, and the problem is daily becoming more difficult. The increasing unrest of the laborer not due to low wages ; the facilities for travel which permit help to change from one place to another ; the influence of labor organizations ; the scarcity of skilled labor in many departments ; all these tax the patience, wisdom, and tact of the managers and officials. There is still another cause for managerial apprehension, and that is the help in VOGUE the mills is, as a body, inferior to the operatives of thirty years ago. They need more oversee- ing, and more direction. As a whole they are not as competent, reliable, or well disposed as the men of a quarter of a century ago ; neither are they as conscientious about doing a fair day’s work fora fair day’s pay. It would have been possible to have come to a juster decision it the speaker had stated whether the nationality of the mill laborer had changed ; were there, for example, as many French Canadians in the mills thirty years ago as there are to-day ? The paper, as it was, however, was an interesting presentment of the employer's side of the indus- trial movement. Even the small employer of labor can duplicate in his experience the lack of skill and the lack of conscientiousness on the part of labor. * * * As a contribution to the subject of the Law of Forestand Mountain—that is, the ethical law —a correspondent of the Evening Post gives some extremely interesting facts in regard to his experiences in Sweden in 1882. In the course of extensive travels through that country the writer found that in railway restaurants, on passenger steamers and elsewhere there were no means of checking customers, who were taken at their word as to what they had eaten. On some steamers there were placed in the cabins books for the use of the passengers, each of whom selected a page and kept his own ae- counts for food and refreshments. At the end of the journey the settlement was made on the passengers’ own reckonings. ‘The paper in its entirety is most interesting, but here only the concluding paragraph is quoted: ‘¢ This lw of the forest is a neglected factor in our natures, and indicates a white spot amidst the envelop- ing black-wash of modern customs.”’ WHEN THE HURDLES ARE DOWN By ALMA MarTIN EsTABROOK E have brought the other cheek," Mrs. Tennywick exclaimed with great patience, settling herself be- fore Fosdick’s fire. ‘¢As the sheep before her shearers——"’ began Hilda Spear. ‘¢ Don’t mix your metaphors like that,’ Brownell objected. He was leaning over a chair, on the edge of which an earnest-faced young woman sat ex- pectantly forward. She looked up at him and nodded. ‘¢ Tell him to begin,’’ she whispered. ‘¢ Miss Tammen wants you to read us the sketch, Fosdick. She thinks that is what we are here for. If she had suffered at your hands as the rest of us have, she would defer the thing as long as possible.”” «¢ As well have it over first as last,’’ said a . man on the other side of the fire. ‘* Bring it out.” ‘¢Put them to shame!’’ cried Virgmia Tammen. Fosdick had one day been very near to sue- cess. It was a short day, brought toa close by disappointment, When he married, Ten- nywick and the others had given him up ; then his wife died, and they rallied about him again, but apathy had superseded ambition. Gradually the edge of their disappointment wore down to a certain affectionate, half-pride in him, but his pellucid surface came to reveal no more to them than to the others whose fleet- ing glances it reflected. It was the new-comer in the little group of familiars whose perception penetrated to the lower deep. With the help of the character-study he read so flippantly she saw what they did not. When it was finished Mrs. Tennywick rose, with a shrug of her shoulders. ‘¢ How unpleasantly you put things some- times, Roger. I haven't a doubt it is exeeed- (Continued on page $42) FOR DESCRIPTIONS SEE ‘* DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS-SOCIETY-MUSIC-ART’”’ SECTION 540

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‘Pe tos DRESS ON THE STAGE Gowns worn in Aunt Jeannie at the Garden Theatre SEE TEXT-—DRESS ON THE STAGE

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(Continued from page 540) ingly clever, but it gives one an odd kind of a twinge. The man you have painted is so en- tirely unsatisfactory ; one does not care at all for him, yet one feels there may be a bit of him in one’s own marrow. I think I prefer the steins to the skits. I hear you have added some new ones to the collection."’ And she trailed her silks into the dining-room, the others tollowing. Miss Tammen came last, and Fosdick held aside the curtains for her to pass. She stopped suddenly and faced him. At the mingled ac- cusation and wistfulness of her eyes he won- dered. Women who stand behind bulwarks may allow themselves certain things which other women may not. Miss Tammen's en- gagement to Brownell was a very sufficient bul- wark, ‘¢ Mrs, Tennywick was right,’’ she said in a low voice ; ‘‘the picture is unsatisfactory, depressing. It is the picture of a splendid structure going to ruin. Why, oh why, do you not build it up? You can. You don’t doubt yourself, do you? It is cruel ; it is wrong. Surely i ‘¢ My reconstructive powers are not vigor- ous,’ he said with a quiet smile. She put out her hand in a gesture of appeal. ‘«Let me help you. Let somebody help you—there are so many of us ready to do it."” He did not take her hand, but stood, in- stead, regarding her with well-disciplined eyes that kept their master’s secrets. ‘¢T am an unlucky fellow,’’ he said ; ‘¢ the only help I could ever have, the only rea: stim- ulus, is denied me.”’ ‘¢ And—and we can do nothing, we who are so anxious ?*" ‘<I am afraid not, Miss Tammen, except that to know such women as you must always be a help to any man.”’ «¢ Don’t—it is so empty. And—-I had wanted to do so much, since you will do noth- ing for yourself.*’ ‘¢ We must get our inspirations froin with- out,” he smiled. «¢ Coming ?*’ calied Mrs. Tennywick. ‘*Coming,”" he answered. As they drove home together Brownell said ; ‘¢ That was an ugly picture Fosdick drew of himself, wasn’t it ?*’ Nobody gave Brownell credit for acute ob- servation. She glanced at him in surprise. ‘It's hard luck to have gone for thirty-five years or so without finding anybody who could really help you in your career, make you do your best, you know—and then find her be- trothed to some other fellow,’’ he continued. ‘« He told me there was some one. Do you —do you know who it is ?”* «¢ Don't you ?”’ *¢ No; he did not tell me that."’ *¢T should think not,’’ laughed he. «¢T don’t understand.”’ He took her hand and smoothed it. ‘¢ There is something just here,’’ said he, turning a ring beneath her glove, ‘that stands between Fosdick and his success.’* She snatched her hand away. ‘¢ Silly !*’ she cried sharply. *¢T have been thinking ‘¢Don’t, in mercy’s name, do it again, then! *" she laughed. ‘¢ That there is a mighty high hurdle in our way,’’ he pursued resolutely. She sat up and shook him by the arm. ”

.”

VOGUE *¢ Robert,”’ she demanded, ‘‘are you quite mad ?*" He took her hands and held them fast. ‘¢See here,’” he commanded, ‘‘ because we were betrothed when we were such infants we couldn’t object is no reason we should not ob- ject now, if it is wisdom to do it. Because we have been such first-rate mates, and kept the pace so nicely together, is no reason we can clear that hurdle, matrimony, and come down on the other side in nice, clean action again. It won't be the same, dear; it’s no use to tell ourselves that it will. We would do the thing like thoroughbreds to the end, of course, but it’s enough better to stop right now than to cripple ourselves with the jump. We can’t go on much longer as we have—the folks in the grand stand won't have it. They are ready for the finish, and we've got to give it to them.”’ ‘¢ If you are wronging me by thinking I care for—for anyone else ‘i ‘<I don’t think you care.”’ ‘Or that anyone cares a whit about me

‘¢ It is not of you alone I am thinking, little woman.”” ‘¢ There is some one else?” ‘¢ To-morrow we shall take a long ride. We are home now. Good-night,’’ he said gently. ‘I hree weeks later he issued tions to the familiars. Thee was a good deal of gaiety throughout the dinuer, and when Brownell stood up at the head of his table, looking very wholesome and proud and happy, it was hard not to give im- mediate vent to the congratulations clamoring for utterance, for each guest felt that the an- nouncement of the wedding day was about to be made. Brownell let his eyes go around the circle of friendly faces, then rest a moment on the girl at his side, who, paler than usual but brilliant- eyed, smiled back at him. «¢ A long time ago most of you sat at this table just as you are sitting now, and looked up at my father, who stood where I now stand,”’ Brownell began, ¢¢ to announce the betrothal of his orphan niece, Miss Virginia Tammen, to his son. Since then you must have wondered that the other more important announcement of the marriage day has not followed.”’ He paused and lifted his glass. They were on their feet in an instant. «¢ IT drink to the health and life-long happi- ness of the lady who from this moment ceases to be my betrothed, continuing, as she has ever been, my best friend, my wise counselor, my dearly beloved cousin.” There followed an instant of stupendous as- tonishment before the lifted glasses touched. Virginia Tammen stood up. «¢ And I,°’ she began with a little ring of feeling in her voice, ‘¢I drink to the health of the future Mrs. Robert Brownell.”’ For a fraction of time, the merest bit of it, her eyes rested on Hilda Spear’s bewildered face, then quickly left it. A murmur ran about the table, and again the glasses clicked. Like swarming bees a buzz of questions assailed them. When they had been hived and hushed, and most of the guests had gone, Mrs. Tennywick went up to Vir- ginia Tammen and kissed her. «It is the crowning wisdom of your young life, my dear,’’ she said with conviction. ‘¢ You were never meant for Rob. Hilda Spear dinner invita- $42

was born for him. He will discover it after awhile. And you a ‘¢ Mrs. Tennywick !*" some one called. «‘Coming,”” said she, turning. «‘ And I,” echoed the girl, a stab of loneli- ness touching her heart. Fosdick passed the group in the hall and crossed to her. *¢ You offered me something once which | could not accept, but which I wanted more than anything else in the world,”’ he said ear- nestly. <* Will you give it tome now? Do you understand, dear? It is your help I want, but it can only come with your love. Can you give me that?” Mrs. Tennywick came back, prescience and approval leaping to her eyes. She held out a hand to each; to each gave the same warm pressure. She smiled and nodded, and her fine face glowed ; but, being a woman of rare wis- dom, she risked no precipitate speech. *¢ Good-night,”” she said. ‘It has been a blessed good night, hasn't it?” Fosdick looked into Virginia Tammen’s eyes and read them. ‘« It has,”’ said he fervently.

OM WHAT

GRAY VERY FASHIONABLE—A COSTUME IN IT OF SMOOTH AND ROUGH CLOTHS—GRAY VEL- VET FLECKED WITH WHITE SILK—CLOTH CORDING——-FEATHER-POSING ON HATS AN ART — SHIMMERINGS SEEN THROUGH NET Ne sees only the most trifling change in the new gown models from those we have been wearing. Is it not a good sign to note how well they have been accepted, and with what a sense of gratification? Wo- men’s taste in dress has advanced so far that they recognize the value of graceful lines and are determined to preserve them. Unbecom- ing changes, merely for the reason that they are novel, and something quite different from last year’s mode, stand no chance of the old- time acceptance. Those who would wear any- thing at all offered them are looked upon now- adays as ignorant of the art of dress, needing instruction and cultivation. The dressy win- ter gowns give one a glow of supreme satisfac- tion, so thoroughly chic are they in every line, in every detail. From gun-metal to the palest cloud tints of gray, barely distinguishable from white, as well as the warmer dove grays, are established as grande mode in smooth and furry cloth, with silky zibelines in greatest favor among the latter. Gray furs, chinchilla and squirrel, are found to be the especial ones in general for trimming such suits, as suits are to lead for all manner of day dressing, it is to be well understood. YAK LACE ON GRAY CLOTH Enviable examples are among the recently finished orders of a winter's outfit, which will add their share to the charming ensemble of dress in many a well-known drawing-room later. The first is a light dove gray suit made of smooth and long-haired cloths. The latter is seen for a good half-yard in depth shaping the wide flare of the skirt at the bottom, above (Continued on page 546)

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DAINTY MILLINERY CREATIONS FROM HOWIESON FOR DESCRIPTIONS SEE ‘* DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS—SUCIETY—MUSIC—ART ” SECTION, PAGE ¢

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Page 21

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(Continued from page 542) which is a broad band of dull white yak lace laid over the gray silk of the under lining. Above this lace band comes the smooth cloth of the same shade beautifully close in its top fitting. On each side of this lace entredeux is a border line of gray silk crochet buttons the size of a nickel, giving a most pleasing effect. The bodice is round, and belted in with a bias gray silk sash, which fastens with a soft crush rosette on the left, its medium long ends left to hang down, and ornamented with fancy fringe passementerie to match in color. The same yak lace dresses up the blouse jacket in front, and across the shoulders in the back by a grace- ful empiécement, with additions of chinchilla as aturn-over collar. It is also carried down the fronts ina narrower line, with the same fur border repeated upon the sleeve cuff, which, like all the new sleeves, boasts of odd manceu- verings, but so intricate that to be comprehen- sible they need to be submitted by a line draw- ing. Fitted to the upper portion of these sleeves are loose hanging Russian ones, quite the smartest feature in sleeves introduced in a long time, and practically for warmth of great- est advantage. These sleeves are untrimmed, but show slightly their white satin lining’s, cor- responding to the rest of the coat lining. The same crochet button border line follows the yak lace upon 'the bodice and upon the bottom of the sleeve with its loose cuff finish. The lovely accessory included in all this genre of suit is a separate waist, and in this instance a silvery sheen taffeta has been selected in perfect color harmony, the difference in tone between any silk and any wool fabric adding much to its beauty. A fine quality of guipure lace is seen in the V shape of its high chemisette, while the body of the waist is tucked in part with a few motifs of the same lace oddly inset, so that the whole front is extremely soft in its laciness. The wide bishop sleeves have a top effect of tucking, but towards the wrist they carry out the same lace effects as upon the fronts, and thus make a charming showing be- low the coat sleeve. COSTUME OF DARK GUN-METAL GRAY Of great distinction is the second suit made of dark gun-metal gray velvet flecked by the most minute threads of whitesilk. The skirt is m three parts, a tablier-shaped-gore, a close- fitting top and a deep-fitted flounce sloping down towards the front, but not passing beyond the seams of the front gore. ‘This flounce is entirely laid in plaits which are stitched down to within a few inches on the sides and gradually shorter in depth as the plaited flounce advances backward which gives that graceful flow to the long flaring drapery. This suit is most expen- sively trimmed with silver fox, and one finds nothing lovelier than the two bands of it which trim the sides of the flounce where they join the gore seams. A fine jet ornament clasps the top points of these four bands and in form ac- cent the pointed effect. This coat has two plaits in the back and having some of the lines of the Monaco coat is a very smart affair. It hangs loose, has very wide sleeves trimmed also with silver fox, while across the shoulders is a fur-trimmed cape giving that broad horizontal line so much in vogue. Large jet ornaments with long jets swinging as a fringe are the fin- ishing touches to this exquisite shoulder cape, which is caught up under these ornaments on either side in front. Two broad plaits are laid also upon each front in keeping with those in VOGUE the back. The coat lining is of white satin. There is a flat stole in length almost touching the fur upon skirt, as well as oblong muff of silver-fox, included with this suit. One may fancy the rare elegance of the ensemble when worn either with a broad toque of white plissé with a jet brim bordered a-jour over white and a white aigrette well to the ffont, or a black plush paneau crimmed with black plumes and jet. CLOTH CORD TRIMMING Among the novelty hand-made trimmings, originating from a celebrated French atelier, is a cloth cording used in following out any 4- jour design. This cord of bias cloth is made first in the most exact manner as to firmness and evenness, yet is so supple that it turns with ease in every direction needed. A charming example of a gown so trimmed is of pale blue cloth. Upon the bottom of the front tablier- gore, which has a broad downward flare, is an eighteen or twenty-inch design, covering the full width at the bottom, but terminating in a round point at the top. This design is carried out by a cloth cording of the dress cloth in the open manner described, showing the match silk under skirt lining beneath. This skirt is other- wise laid in plaits, stitched down and cut from under to form a perfect-fitting yoke. An em- piécement of the same a-jour cord forms a top front plastron to the blouse bodice, and is car- ried over the top of the sleeves and across the back, the cloth in the back dropping into a slight blouse line at the belt. The sleeves have a bag pouch drapery below the elbows, caught suddenly into a shaped wrist piece, where there is an insetting of the palest pastel green velvet worked over into small medallions with a dull gold thread and finest of silver pail- le'tes. This is repeated upon the collarband, which dips down into a triple pointed effect in front. Between these lovely little medallions were tuckings of pale blue chiffon. Altogether a charmingly youthful and surely a most be- coming gown for wear at the dressy January functions to come. CLOAK AND HAT A long, white, fur-lined cloth coat is the carriage wrap one fancies the wearer to slip out of betore meeting her hostess. We may fancy her also wearing an Irish point hat, with a sim- ple band and bow of white satin ribbon around its low crown, while underneath its brim is a wreath of white ostrich feathers. Or it may be that under the hat brim will lie one long white plume, while another starts from the out- side on the right, and is headed by the quaint- est of chiffon bows clustered together, and then curls over in an altogether new way, intensely coquettish for the right sort of figure and face. Feather-posing upon hats is required to be more of an artistic inspiration than ever before ; and that is saying much, for this gift has never been given except toa few. As feathers reaching the size of plumes are the ultra-smartness of the most dressy millinery this winter, the demand for a gracetul and chic handling of feathers is quite evident. Lace evening gowns retain the same charm- ing feature of serving as an outer veiling or drapery, and whatever the handwork in gold, silver or jet may be, it is wrought upon an un- der drop skirt and shimmers beneath the outer lace. Jet work ona white chiffon drop skirt gives perfect delight when seen through black 546

lace or net. This method finds many admir- ers, and lovely gowns are ordered after this genre. Another real lace period is established, and without doubt the winter balls will make a glorious showing in this direction, as one hears on all sides of much foreign lace purchased— Venetian, French, Irish, English, and from the famous Belgian houses. Silk laces are still modish, and suit some fabrics better than aught else. The linen and wool yak laces have sprung suddenly into favor inhigh places. The French faiseurs all use it to trim rough or shaggy cloths. GLIMPSES AFTER— Many refusals to accept long-haired cloth suitings, it looks now as if further resistance were useless. Grande mode they are in all manner of shagginess, and at correspondingly high prices when softness, silkiness and light- ness are achieved. For— Elderly matrons long tulle hat strings are a becoming revival. They hide nature's first disclosure of time’s ravages, where otherwise she keeps the secret of growing years with a loyal generosity. Few there are who can af- ford to turn their faces and necks to a rigid scrutiny, but with this airy drapery starting from the back of a hat, all defects of the neck are hidden. STRANGE— As it may seem, tailors talk glibly of ‘<dressy’’ suits of these new heavy cloths being made with long skirts for their carriage- less customers. Visions of holding up such weighty trains the winter long is enough to paralyze the most abject slave to fashion. Skirts which ¢¢ clear the walk,’’ with short or half-length jackets, are what the wise women will order for such fabrics, and wear the fine smooth cloths for ceremonious long-skirted gowns. It will never be possible this winter to make one suit answer both purposes without entailing great fatigue and weariness of spirit. Besides, these hairy cloths cannot but look very out of place in drawing-rooms when visiting and tea-drinking afternoons return. ‘THERE— Seems to be no end to the beautiful new galoons used in gown and cloak trimmings, nor any diminution in the invention of new grace- ful lines which they are to define on skirts and bodices. When galoons are not used, smart gowns are trimmed with the same dress mate- rial cut out as motifs, as well as in line trim- mings, pendant tabs in all manner of designs, or the hairy zibeline fabrics are chosen as a trimming contrast to trim the smooth-surface cloths. Ir— Is evident that panne velours possess too much of a hold on the popular fancy to disap- pear in the least. Dressy waists of it, trimmed with Irish laces, are making an attractive show- ing in all the evening colors. Dinner gowns of white panne are two-thirds lace, which makes them all the prettier. Children’s coats and hats in white panne are also a fixed winter fancy.

Page 23

Dp BAS Se Bet yes ~~ Pe AH toe — <i: pS ¥ EXQUISITE LINGERIE ._....; FROM THE PANSY SHOP FOR @ESCRIPTIONS SEE ‘* DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS-SOCIETY—MUSIC—ART "” SECTION

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(Norre.—Readers of Vogue inquiring names ot shops where articles are purchasable should enclose stamped and addressed envelope for reply and state page and date, See illustrations on this page.] FETCHING COSTUME ACCESSORIES, SUCH AS NECK WEAR AND BELT NOVELTIES——STOCK MODELS——-NAPERY AND BLANKETS — FUR COATS FOR CHILDREN— rOKE HATS—BLOUSE AND SHIRT WAISTS POPULARITY OF VELVET——BOAS gf N the small accessories of dress, quite as [ much as in more important features, rest the secret of distinction, detail being more than ever before the crucial point upon which the effect of a toilet depends. Little nothings, which run away with more money than we care to acknowledge or perhars even realize, are not less necessary than beguil- ing. The modish woman of the day must have neck chains, hat pins, shopping bags, hair ornaments, clasps, fancy belts and more than all else stocks and neckbands of all kinds and de- scriptions to fill the various necessities presented by shirt waists, silk blouses and separate bodices. To be sure, the latter are usually finished with an attached neckband, but one must have sev- eral of the more fanciful kind to enliven any rather chiffonée bodice which, with the aid of some such deft touch, blossoms again into a period of freshness and usefulness. Clear-cut lines and a strictly tailor-made ap- pearance are found to perfection in the smart little set of girdle and stock illustrated in sketch No. 1. The material is peau de soie in an ex- ceedingly fine, lustrous quality or a remarkably durable silk which is no less attractive to the eye. Entirely new is the idea of fastening the belt in the back, this arrangement allowing a finish no less pretty than novel. ‘Through a clever arrangement of interwoven silk the effect is produced, and there is a plain fitted lining at the back to keep all this braiding securely in place. It is entirely practicable to reverse this belt and adjust the pretty brass or gun-metal buckle in front. The stock is cut with a short point, which helps to keep it down without fastening and adds much to the fit; it is adjusted at the back by pinning, thus permitting a little latitude in size. Price, for the belt and $1.75 for the stock. Second among the illustrations is one which will appeal very strongly to the taste of nine women out of ten. Simple lines, good style and a certain trig smartness are enhanced by the obvious amount of work expended upon its mak- ing. ‘The neckband itself is white and of either silk previously mentioned, stitched elaborately in black. ‘The same style of ornamentation is used for the long ends and piece encircling the stock, which is stitched with white and finished with small hand-worked medallions as well as two oval rings above the knot in front. The fastening is in the back as usual, and the price, $2.75. Suchastock will be of great conveni- ence during an entire season, and after a trip to the cleaner’s, may be used even longer, as there is nothing to get out of order, and both material So 2c ween5 and workmanship are of the best. The softest and most harmonious colors are mingled in the plaid silk of which the stock pictured in sketch No. 3 ismade. No opening is shown in the back, as the nooking is done underneath and soft folds drawn over smoothly and around to the left in front, where they are hooked under a small brass buckle ; two pointed ends make a pretty finish. Any of the plain shirt waists in green, red or blue would be much smartened by the addition of one of these new and pretty stocks. Price, $2. One of the best varieties on the lines of the bishop’s stock is to be seen in illustration No. 4. This sells for $1.75 in taffeta or $2 in a very fine and lustrous silk, which is the unique production and specialty of a well-known firm. The edges are hemstitched, and at the end of each tab small medallions are inserted, beautifully worked in silk of a contrasting shade. Black and white is always a good combination, but there are a number of others in this particular style, and it is always well to have a change Somewhat on the same lines, but less expen- sive, is the model pictured in sketch No. 5. A finish of French knots about the edge and a row of fancy stitching, giving a touch of hand work, which is always of value in the eyes of the fastidious woman, who insists upon fine fin- ish and well planned details. In taffeta the price is only $1.35, and in the silk mentioned before $1.50. It is remarkable how many changes may be rung on the same theme, and though there are practically but three slight variations in the form of neck wear—the straight band, that pointed in front and the bishop’s stock—the va- rieties of elaboration seem without end. Very striking is the model shown in sketcn No. 6, much work being employed in fine stitching as well as in the finish and adjustment of four em broidered portholes through which the folds of the stock are drawn, both back and front. The fastening is made with hooks in the back, but the appearance is given of its being in front with the trigly tied knots and ends. Price, $2.75 and $2.50. Severe and rather mannish is the stock illus- trated in No. 7, $1.50 being asked for its pos- session. This collar is made to open in front and comes in golf colors as well as in other com- binations, black and white being as ever much liked as an ensemble. As it closes with hooks it must be ordered in collar size. Simple.belts of stitched peau de soie widening a little at the back and slipping through a brass or gun metal buckle in front with double pointed ends, are only $1 each. More unusual is a belt 548 of the same material and shape which finishes in two overflapping ends in the back, stitched flat and ornamented with three small crochet buttons. The buckle is a little handsomer than that of the belt previously mentioned and the price, $1.25. Not even in the January sales of table and bed linen are there better opportunities than at pres- ent to pick up inexpensively accessory articles for household replenishment, though in the two departments mentioned the first of the year is generally the most advantageous purchasing time. California blankets and those from the New England mills are now to be had for the price of $5.25 in double bed size and $4.50 for single beds, but if something very fine be required $8.75 and $9.25 are asked. Down-filled comfortables, just as warm and cosy as their name in fine figured sateen cover- ings of original design and pretty colorings at $3.75 and upward. Silk-covered down-filled comfortables are $8 each; and handsomest of all are those filled with lamb’s wool and covered with figured satin in beautiful floral designs. Price, $17.50. Slumber robes of Italian silk were never so lovely although each year has seen a marked improvement in their design and tex- ture. They fill a distinct household need and are invaluable for the afternoon siesta, having just enough warmth to make them agreeable to throw over one’s shoulders on any such occa- sion and being decorative when not in use. Prices range all the way fromr the 85 cents ‘“*SEEN IN THE SHOPS’ ILLUSTRATIONS—SEE TEXT THIS PAGE asked for a very light quality in a striped to $6.75. The latter are especially wey for bachelor apartments as they come jn chic lit striking designs as well as in a very h, be or the! quality of silk. modish White bedspreads of satin damask } are $3.25 in the best quality, and they wij years, as they are very heavy and cl Coral neck chains are selling for $5 ag finished with a 14-carat gold clasp, ang loveliest little sets of sleeve links are to be in the same substance. These are y old, and cut in the form of full-blown , each leaf distinct and separate from it fj hanging Ider to t ot very coat of ted and n neck t ming Co) n and bor ive a mo out the ning of t bands of hed with handsom price ask smart da: ble capes h, there box back style of are seen hents of and one d-work | exquisit ustations garment: those ers. Dne lovel; er has a the ce Is and tw’ e next ¢t a binding little c soft frills pted at th d with si Jo materia pod covert orn with eis no m and sma material et collar e in the finish ar favor wi Vo less d market | hon-brow! e which ordinary k is belted erred, anc e, $9.50 Rain coats rted, plait k fashion reis as ent is a e as int gray crav At the sar inexpensi hese are h exami example. green tatt cuffs of re is an white ta just bel: r. Slas} a quaint e striped ch is sell m every s! ly pretty SES of thi 0 exceptio Buttons co black and same co} though the whole flower is only about a! asadime. Baroque pearl hat pins are #2 the novelties, and cost only $3.50 whe quite a large size. Lovely are belt buckles cameo stone in faint pink, over which sprays of flowers and leaves in simulated monds set in gold or silver. Some o 8 have the addition of a cabuchon cut sjp the deep blue of this stone contrasting ada with the pink background. Prices range? $19 upward. A properly made leather collar box 1s the most useful small gifts a man can me It insures the keeping of his collars tidiy® re place, and is even more useful when tr hin a than when remaining at home. H ™ 6 e and of ample circumference are some SF ’ whe pigskin boxes, which are just over 4 ef - hight and cost $2 each. ; 3-99. rs or of | ’ the pric

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a ally well come in } very h, juirrel has found its way even into the de- ment of children’s clothes, and one of the chic little coats I have seen for a boy of or thereabouts was made entirely from this modish fur. The style was double-breasted uite simple, reaching to the knees and mented with a handsome black cordeliere hanging ends This was draped from one Jder to the other in military fashion. ; ot very much less expensive was a beautiful coat of biscuit-colored ladies” cloth, double- ed and laid in two very wide box plaits , neck to hem at the back. There was a ming collar of point de Venise over white , and bordered with a stitched band of cloth ‘ve a more severe and boyish finish. Cuffs out the same idea and depending from the ning of the collar in front were many stitch- bands of cloth in different lengths, each hed with an embroidered porthole. There handsome lining of white satin serge and price asked is $25. For more ordinary use smart dark-blue serge coat, marked $14.75. ble capes and a velvet collar make a pretty h. there being a loose double-breasted front as back. Poke bonnets are always a fav- style of headwear for smal] girls, and this are seen in more varied and beautiful devel- ents of detail than ever before. The thous- and one different ways of employing fine j-work has much to do with the wonder- exquisite results, shirrings, tuckings and ustations being as generously lavished upon garments and millinery of little people as those of their grown-up sisters and ers. Dne lovely little poke bonnet of pastel pink ver has a wide crown of chiffonette shirred the centre in sun-ray effect, Softest Js and twists of lustrous liberty silk fill in the e next the little face, and pink silk is used a binding for the brim. Price, $16.75. t little caps for the baby are bordered with soft frills of mousseline de soie, and orna- nted at the top with a fluffy rosette of net, d with silk ribbon. Price, $3.25. Jo material lasts longer and looks better than pod covert cloth, and for an extra garment to yorn with any kind of a walking costume, ¢ is no more sensible purchase. Very man- and smart is a three-quarter length coat of material made with a loose back, fly front, et collar anda lining to the waist of satin e in the next shade darker. Compactness finish are features of the coat, which will favor with many and the price is $27.50. Jo less desirable was a full-length cheviot market made of the loveliest shade of cin- hon-brown and half lined with the satin e which has the advantage of outwearing ordinary silk twice over. The full loose k is belted in or allowed to fall unconfined as erred, and there are smart little cuffs of velvet. e, $9.50. Rain coats of a new cut are made with an rted, plaited back which falls very loose, in k fashion from under a shaped shoulder cape. re is a small velvet collar, and in front the ent is as straight and unconfined in its ¢ as inthe back. The material is a Lon- gray cravenette and the price, $15. At the same shop is a large variety of simple inexpensive blouses and shirt waists; many hese are most unusual in ‘style and well th examination with a view to purchase. example, there is a very dressy little blouse green taffeta made with a vest, stock and cuffs of cream Point de Venice for $12. re is an odd and effective piping of black white taffeta and two shaped tabs cross the just below the bust, pointing toward each r. Slashes filled with Point de Venice 4 quaint finish at the elbows. Of gray and te striped taffeta is another lined blouse ch is selling for $10.75. Tucks are laid m every shoulder and the sleeves are uncom- ly pretty in shape. With almost all silk ses of this kind a stock is attached and this O exception to the rule. Buttons covered with shepherd’s check silk black and white and quantities of piping in same colors are the most noticeable-points an attractive little sh'rt waist of pale blue mch flannel, There is also a good deal of hing in a curious mixture of black and te, such as is found in :some embroidery The model .is.exceedingly good, and the ¢ $3.90. If made cf louisine in the same brs or of white silk with black ornamenta- » the price is $6.g0. mask My | they wil d closely for $5 a 93 Clasp, ang ks are to by e are y full-blown | from its fj + about as yins are aD 3-50 whet belt buckle ver which? simulated Some of a n cut Sapp isting admit ices range® ir box is an can ree ars tidily when tnt , ' some over a co Among other attractive novelties are kimona- shaped dressing jackets of plain colored wool al- batross bound widely with white liberty satin, dotted with black. Price, $5.50. Eiderdown flannel in a pretty mixture of blue and pink is used for another little jacket, suitable only for bedroom use by reason of its simple form and material. The wide sailor collar, cuffs, jackets and entire garment are bound with blue satin ribbon, and the price is $3.90. The gayest of plaided silks are used for whole bodices, girdles, cravats, vests, etc. Every color of the rainbow would seem to be combined in these striking yet soft combinations, of which a touch is sufficient to enliven any material, however sombre. _Louisine is quite as effective as taffeta’ inthese~ plaids and it really wears better where the usage is to be at all con- stant or hard. Greens, blues and a streak of yellow make one lovely mixture of colors which is not too pronounced for beauty, and browns, écru and cream color seem to melt into each other almost imperceptibly in another. Cream is a ground upon which a riotous mass of colors is thrown is a third, and red crossing several shades of green is pretty enough to be placed first instead of last on the list. Price, $1.25 a yard. Velvets are to have another season of un- stinted popularity, and unlucky, indeed, is the woman who does not’ count at least one such frock among the contents of her wardrobe. A black velvet gown is a better investment from almost all points of view than any other one can make. A coat and skirt preferably, and to this may be added a décolleté bodice of the same, as well as two or three handsome high neck bodi- ces of silk or lace. Even the expense is not great if all the different uses to which this single frock may be put are considered. However, one should be warned against buying a cheap quality. Better than this would be a fine velve- teen, which one can get for $1.50 a yard, and even as low as $1 in a less good quality. Fancy velvets are out in large numbers, but the best designs are being so rapidly picked up, that I should advise an early purchase. The shades are simply exquisite—reds, greens, browns, grays, blues, and the ubiquitous black and white being each in their way effective and de- sirable. A dotted design in white, or any of these colors is especially good. The pile is evenly cut out in solid circles, small, large, or of various sizes, as the case may be, showing white on the darker fond. This costs $2.50 a yard, and is especially pretty in nut-brown or green. Hair lines of white on a brown ground, inter- spersed with more of these dots, is another pretty design, an automobile red with an indefi- nite and very tiny white figure. Amorg hair lines of a lighter shade of the ground color is a very beautiful velvet, rich and glowing, without the slightest trace of crudity in color or design. Price, $3 a yard. White point de Venice over a thin silk lin- ing is used for a simple but pretty little bodice, selling for $16.50. There is no trimming of any kind as the lace is in itself sufficient to make further embellishment superfluous. The sleeves are elbow length and finished with twist of black velvet ribbon, a simple touch of which is added at the waist line, also is it used from the fastening on the left shoulder to the bust where it ends in a few twists and loops. An attractive though simple boa—I use the name almost apologetically and always because no new one has as yet been coined to better fill the exigencies of the situation—is of black taffeta in two overlapping ruffles treated with wide and narrow black velvet ribbons. Like all new affairs of the kind it is made in the form of a small shoulder cape with long ends, the latter rather wide in this instance and trimmed with velvet ribbon cris-cross forming a single but pretty design. Quite at the bottom | are full ruffles similarly treated. Price, $14.95. Albatross kimonas in any of the light shades or white are bound with wide wash ribbons and cost $6.75. There is a triple shirring in yoke from both front and back to give a becoming fullness and the materials are of the best. THIN WOMEN Corset Ohe 6 Pootz’’ Yew IS A REVELATION EXCELS ALL OTHERS AND COMFORT. IN PERFECT CORSETING. IN STYLE, RECOMMENDED BY LEADING ELEGANCE PHYSICIANS. TO ORDER ONLY ee ff 7 2 EAST 301b STREET GENERAL ASSISTANTS Inventories taken, marketing for town and country, houses cleaned, servants engaged, visit- ing hcusekeepers, secretaries, readers, shopping guides and purchasing agents. Children amused and instructed by the day or hour. Mrs. SILLIMAN Mrs. JONES 28 West 33rd Street THE TAVISTOCK HOTEL, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON, W. C. The only Bachelor Hotel in the Metropolis Clublike comforts and facilities. Favorite Resort for Colonials. Most central and close to leading Theatres and Music Halls. Excellent Cuisine—Very Moderate Tariff. CHAS, SHERIDAN, Manager. . Mending Agency Men’s and women’s clothing, household linens, etc. Hemstitching and old laces skillfully mended, . Waists renovated. Garments of every description cleaned, brushed and pressed by yearly contract. Rebinding skirts a specialty. Waists, Neckwear made to order. Tue Knick- ERBOCKER Bureau, 28 W. 33d St. Telephone 2601 B, Madison Sq. BEAUTIFY YOUR SKIN BY USING LIA RAND’S PERFECTO CREAM Hygienic, White, Non-Acid Skin Food, Tissue Builder, Bleach. Price socents. At Department Stores. Send stamp for Free Sample 199 WASHINGTON STREET, BROOKLYN BURLINGHAM AT NEWPORT HAS ONE OF THE LARGEST AND FINEST COLLECTIONS OF ANTIQUES IN THIS ASGOUN THR 3t 88 3 2 Superfluous Hair Radica.ly Destroyed, MME. JULIAN S SPECIFIC, before the pubue 35 years here and abroad, cures the worst growth. Noeec tricity, poison of pain. Absolutely harmiess. Cure guaranteed. Cad/ or address. MME. JULIAN, 155 West 22d St., N. Y. Y SPANGLES & EMB. MATERIALS. FOR BAGS ANB CHAINS, Carrere | BEADS oie EVERYTHING YOU CAN THINK OF 1M THIS LIWE that can’t be bad elsewhere. Send stamps for mal! list. Est. 1860. PETER RENDER, IMPORTER, 111 KR. 9th ST., N.Y. WHOLESALE & RETAIL R N > Who wish to increase their weight—thus perfecting symmetry of person— should read Dr. Rivard's Treatise on the the Prevention and Cure of this distressing condition, and how the weight auses of Thinness or Emaciation; can be increased roto es pounds—quickly, surely, safely—at very moderate 549 | cost. Booklet sent toany address in plain, sealed envelope for 4c. postage, The B. Y. Rivard Co., Detroit, Mich. / Shirt | NEW YORK BUNIONS and ENLARGED JOINTS relieved and cured by Pond’s Toe Spring Worn without inconve- nience. Restores entire foot to its natural form and action. Sent on approval. Money back if not satisfied. Send outline of foot and write for particulars. Orthopaedic Supplies with The Improved Instep Arch Supporter for ‘* FLAT FOOT.” Address me for all foot ailments. s without M. ACHFELDT, 41 W. 24th St., N. Y. Suite C. A Pure Champagne is the purest of all alcoholic bew erages, because of the simplici of its manufacture, its very sm percentage of alcohol and its per fect fermentation GREAT WESTERN CHAMPAGNE is the purest juice of the Gmest grape, prepared with the greatest care and in the most cleanly manner. Awarded Gold Medal highest award at the Paris Exposition of 1900 PLEASANT VALLEY WINE CO., Sole Maers - - Rheims, N. ¥. Sold by respectable wine dealers everywhere PROP. 1. NUBERT'S MALVINA CREAM “The one Reliable Beautifier” Posnively corre Freckles, Sut burn, Pimples, Ring-worm, and ail imperfections of the shia, tnd prevents erinkicn Bow a merely cover ap but eradicates them Matvina Lotion san tchthyot Soap shovis be wed in comection wih Maivina Cream, At @ arog gees, oF sent on receipt of peice, Cream, s08., postpaid , Lotion, son, Gaprem, collect , Soap, 35¢., pampal Seed fo: tan momen PROP. 1. HUBERT, Toledo, Ohta Mme. Aphe. Picaut Ostrich and Fancy Feathers, Boas, etc. REPAIRING, CLEANING, and DYEING 43 West 21st Street, New York Our work has given satisfaction for over filty years to many of New York's representative families. And we feel that it will also satisfy you.

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Wg gh gi gor gi alot glad glo NOM iat td Sd 4 AS SEEN BY HIM kb ‘wy wr* Ver er ver A DEFENSE OF HIS CLASS—‘‘ SMART ’” A MIDDLE- CLASS WORD——THE DOUBLE IJFE—-A CURI- OUS CONTENTION THAT SOCIETY SHOULD BE PRAISED FOR BEING NO WORSE THAN IT IS “4 | \He press is harping on the same old theme—our faults, our vices, our im- perfections. We are having the same rank and file of traducers, and the same of de- fenders: sometimes an accusation hits the mark and sometimes a caustic defense really does in- justice. I ama reader of the editorial. I do not believe that it will go out of existence any more than I have faith in that absurd prophecy of Jules Verne about the novel. We want ro- mance in our lives, and though truth is often much stranger than fiction, sll we cannot abandon in a short time that which has existed for centuries, and which has been gradually builded up. I know that poets are few and that we have very little time for verse in this utilitarian age, except if it be of the Kipling genre, or else dainty conceits such as Austin Dobson has loved to write. But the editorial is always a bit of an essay, and we like essays. They are sermons in secular dress. Sometimes one proses a bit, but there are nuggets of wis- dom in many of these screeds. A man of New York wrote a letter to a dai- ly newspaper in which he deeply deplored the result of a recent tragedy. But in deploring it he found time to preach a bit—how we like to do this—and to refer to the number of men who are classed as in the ‘*‘ fashionable or smart set’’—that dreadful middle-class word ‘‘smart’’! -as leading double lives. |The editorial, very wisely and in the best of taste, takes this man of New York totask. It simply scates this axiom, ‘¢ Let us not be hypocrites.’’ How many of us in different walks of life, whether in the fashionable set or merely ‘‘lookers- onin Vienna ;’’ whether millionaires or only with moderate incomes; whether prince or pauper, man of leisure or toiler, but do not at some time lead double lives. | What is a double life ? The very next day after the dreadful tragedy which caused the death of a man of ancient, honorable and unblemished name, a young woman was found dead in a canal in a lonely part of the suburbs. She had been murdered. [he new murder succeeded as the day’s sensa- tion to the old. The details were far more harrowing in one sense and showed a disgraceful state of morals beyond proof or doubt existing in the working classes. The man of New York did not think it worth his while to write a homily on this question. Do we lead double lives, and what is a double life ? We are all human and all prone to tempta- tion but sometimes we may be the victim of circumstances. I remember I thought I should do a little slumming some years ago, when the Bowery was still a very dangerous place, and when the streets leading off it were filled with thugs and footpads and characters of that kind. I went into a concert hall. There was nothing in the place which was the least indecent or out of the way. There were tables where men and women sat and drank beer or even non-intoxicant beverages, just as you see them in many establishments abroad, and for that matter in very many fashionable resorts in New York. The environment and the people were different. But sitting and drinking a little beer or a little lemonade or a little sherry or a cup of tea, for that matter, while musicians are playing or someone was singing, cannot be rep- rehensible. The music was discordant and bad, the surroundings extremely tawdry and vety cheap, the place was not clean, the beer was execrable, and the singers had untrained, hoarse voices and they chanted doleful, pathetic ditties about ‘* mother and home.’” Suddenly a man who was « little under the weather accused a waiter in loud tones of having robbed him. The woman who was his companion corroborated the statement. The language, I must confess, was rather strong and very much to the point. The rule of the house seemed to be to discipline all those who objected to anything which was served them or to any treatinent which they might receive. The doorman suddenly closed the entrance to the place. All lights were put out and the ‘‘bouncer,’’ an enormous man, proceeded to club with a great policeman’s billy right and left, anybody in his way. It might have been myself. I mighce have got a blow and been brought to a hospital and made the subject of long and diffusive newspaper articles. I had no right to be there, but I was perfectly inno- cent. I was leading a double life, to be sure, but certainly one which had an element of im- prudence, but nothing more in it. But even granting that I was for the time disreputable and drunk and had made boon companions of the people there. Should my class be judged, because I had been imprudent ? I would have committed the greatest sin in the list of offenses according to modern belief—the crime of being found out. Many of us may not care for a bit of low life, such as I have de- scribed, but may have been led into imprudence. But in this country, we who are its millionaires, are also its princes and its nobles. As I have said, time and time again, we live in the full glare of the lime light, in the very centre of the stage. Poor Edward was accused of many things of which he never was guilty. As the editorial writer says, in answering to the man of New York, who speaks about tearing off the mask and exposing the fashionable set, ‘* Of all people, they are the least masked ; they are the most conspicuous both in their vices and their virtues. They cannot hide themselves. If one of them falls the noise is heard all through society, while a man in another social sphere might tumble into the gutter with- out attracting more than casual observation from a knot of bystanders. ‘“‘The Fashionable Set,’ goes on our editorial writer, **do not pose as moral exemplars. They do not assume a virtue they have not. They are a set of people bent only on getting as much pleasure out of life as possible. And,”’ concludes our writer, ‘‘all the more credit should be given them, as they are in this coun- try, with actual cash incomes at their absclutely independent disposal, and without class tradition, without class obligation as a restraint on their ab- solute free will.” Here you have the answer in a nutshell. I do not think there is need to refer to this sub- ject again. I think that this is the reply to all criticisms. | With such advantages, one might think that the wealthy and fashionable sets could have a morale of their own. Instead of this, they are really very decent indeed, and much more so than in other countries. It is true there are divorces. But are not divorces sanc- tioned by law and in some instances by certain of the churches ? In our set, when we marry, we are bound as if with chains of iron. In the lower classes, no such morale exists. You hear that it does, you read that it does, but you have facts every day to prove it otherwise. In the hurry of life, many of us enter into the matrimonial state too quickly and too rashly. I know that certain of the churches teach that marriage is a very serious thing and to contract one is to be bound for- ever. The causes for separation are those for annulling the marriage itself and are rare, and the permission to get loosened difficult to obtain. I am not a believer in universal divorce, but there are times when it is necessary. Life is short and we are taught that the wicked are punished afterwards. Why make us who are human and liable to err suffer the tortures of the lost souls on earth? ‘There is nothing more fearful to contemplate. The conventionalizies of life are such, that we cannot find out whether we are making a mistake or not. It is a lot- tery. Both man and woman deceive each other in the brief period of modern courtship, and we go tothe altar and from there to our home, almost absolute strangers. The marriage proves unhappy. We may be released, but people were wont to look askance at us, if we ever found our affinities. Why should we not havea little happiness before we die? I think that the ruling is cruel and I am speaking entirely from a non-sectarian point of view. But when we do separate in our sphere of life, we go about it in the most open manner. We invoke the law and if we marry again, in nine cases out of ten, we have the sanction of the church. And I think that this is only leading an open and a righteous life. But we may lead double lives all the same, and our duplicity may really be innocuous or in- nocent. We can only pray and add a formula or versicle to the already overcrowded litany ‘* from being found out, deliver us.”” 55° THE WELL-DRESSED MAN TOP COATS FOR EVENING——SEMI-ULSTER MODEL LIKELY TO BE SEEN LATER-——TRAV- ELING ULSTER EVENING TOP COATS devoted to overcoats for autumn and winter, the subject is not exhausted, and, while the time has come for a discussion of this season’s fashions in evening clothes, etc., a complete exposition of outer coats seems of all things the most to be desired. Besides the Chesterfield for general all-around wear, described in last week’s issue, there is the more formal, and, if I may use the word, the more ‘‘ dressy ’? coat made on the same general lines, but intended especially for evening use. This is the same coat as that in vogue during the winter of 1900-1901 and worn to some extent last winter, but there are certain differ- ences of detail, which, if they do not change the character of the garment, at least some- what alter its appearance. The material may be any of the stuffs used for the Chesterfield, but I should advise a soft A Lthough last week’s article was mainly GOLF SHOE WITH GAITER medium weight vicuna of black or a light- weight soft finish black cheviot. The coat should be cut with perfectly straight back and side lines, not exactly with a bulge or flare, but with plenty of fullness of stuff, so that there may be slight folds or waves in the material from the shoulders down, and the garment may be slipped on and off with ease. The front should, of course, be single-breasted, with fly buttoning, and the length should be about fifty inches for a man of five feet nine—that is, somewhat below the middle of the calf. This length is the main point of difference between the evening dress Chesterfield of past seasons, which hung only an inch or two below the knees, and that of to-day. The collar may be of velvet or of the coat material, and should be rather narrow at the back, but the lapels are of fair proportions and are faced with silk to the edges, the facing extending to the bottom of the coat, which is full lined with black satin. As on the ordinary Chesterfield the pockets may be set straight and covered by flaps, or set ver- tically and made with a siit, which makes it possible to reach the inner pockets without un- buttoning the coat. The shorter evening Ches- terfield of past seasons was made with straight set flap side pockets, but on the long coat, of the two, I think the vertical cut is to be pre- ferred. The only other question to be consid- ered is that of finish to the sleeves. Either a plain or turned-back cuff may be used, the mat- ter, it seems, being left very much to individual preference. If I were asked to advise, I think I should be in favor of the plain sleeve, but for the sole reason that the turned-back cuff has been so commonly used for the past two or three years on all sorts and conditions of over- coats. FIFTY-INCH ULSTERS Up to the present time few of the semi- ulster styles have made their appearance, but it is reasonably safe to assume that when cold weather sets in, as may be expected at the be- ginning of winter, this type will again be much in vogue. It is the coat of all others to wear to a football game and it does driving, automobiling or traveling, should be long, I should say fifty inches g fora man of five feet nine, and there sh, plenty of material in the back and g: that the belt, which runs from eithers, the backs buttoning in the middle, wij , the cloth to gather a iittle under it, Fas bottom there should be a long slit or Vent ning up to within six or eight inches from belt and made to button under an iny plait, so that there may be plenty of freedog movement and the skirts may be pull over the legs in front when sitting & There may be a simple yoke across the \g if desired, but the front of the coat shou finished plain, single-breasted, fy-buttoning with medium cut lapels. This garmen: j usually been made with an outside breast pi and side pockets set straight and covery flaps, but though the former is to be adj; the latter may be set vertically and made yi slit if preferred. | There should be cuffs « sleeves which may be turned down ove hands and the collar should be of the cog terial rather than velvet. DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT OF Twepp Another smart ulster for traveling, or for stormy day wear in town, is the long { double-breasted coat of mixed tweed or ky spun, with fairly broad collar and tab and jig of checked flannel or other suitable stuff. may be made with vertically set breast po and slit side pockets, but the better way} old style of no outside pockets at the brea simple flap pockets at the sides. There g be a buttoned slit or vent at the back an may have a belt across the back if he fancig but instead of a cuff finish on the sleeves, finish with buttons is, I think, best. Fory eling by rail or on ship, this ulster looks with tweed or homespun cap to math, heavy dog skin gloves. The above-described coats, with those tioned in the late preceding issues of Vg under this title, are about all the styles wi may be said to have any following in the of fashion, but so long as one observes theg eral types the detail may be more ot changed at will. One may always be indi if the individuality is within the limits of g style, but when it takes the form of silk fa or velvet collars on covert coats, beware. The illustration shows a gaiter of heavg box cloth and tan golf shoe with blunt spik the sole. Long trousers have been more on the links than knickerbockers during summer, but through the autumn month latter are good form and the gaiter gives a¢ finish to the leg. How Perhaps nothing can so satisfactorily give et sion to woman's individuality, sense of elegant refinement as her stationery. Fashion having set its seal of approval on surface papers Milady is using Highland Lina its delicate colorings and delightful surface to her sense of fitness, This paper is especially rich when stamped her monogram in her favorite color and gold. Etiquette and convenience have jointly see certain shapes and sizes for social uses. For of acceptance or regret, a sheet measuring 41 inches; the style of envelope according pleasure. “ New Court 3” with its deep pointed fa “ West End ‘ with a less emphatic point and"{ tleton ” should she prefer the wallet or pocket closing and for more voluminous corfespot “Aylesford ” or ** New Court 2” have the prefer These shapes are unusually attractive inthe § Blue and Pearl Gray tints of the Highland paper. This paper is being much sought after, buta readily obtained from all the first-class stationem. THE MOST FASHIONABLE PE RFUM ASK FoR'9-1', EAU DE COLOGNE charm Maria far fernengasse ry in VERY FASCINATING DT l Bao ivi ‘ vse? ROYAL FAMILIES: BY ALL Pat, FOR SALE BY FIRST CLASS DEALERS» IMPORT OFFICE. 1-3 ANN ST. NEW

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es eling. ty Sched d there Sho Cand sk; either sige iddle, wil , Tit. Frog slit or Vent » inches fron an inverte) ty of fei y be pulley n sitting 4 Cross the hed ie coat shoul ly-buttoning is garment j ide breast po} and covers $ to be adr; and made wij d be cuffs down over § of the coat » OF Twerp veling, or ing is the long, tweed or hg nd tab and jin able stuff, t breast pody etter way if at the breag . There gy he back an : if he fancig the sleeves best. For ulster looks to match, with those issues of V he styles w ing in thew bserves the g e more ot rays be indivi > limits of g m of silk fg 3» beware. er of heavy h blunt spik been more kers during mn_ months ter gives as Hor orily give er se of elegant proval on f ighland Lina ful surface 1en stamoed measuring 41 according t p pointed & ¢ point and"{ let or pocket 18s correspond ave the preterd active in the § > Highland it after, but d ass stationen. ST FUM! COLOGNE FT in Koln Be ND INVIGORE * IES: DEALERS ON |) ae Ladies’ Calfskin Walking Boot H. JANTZEN Maker of Fine Footwear for Men, Women and Children Our styles are always correct and a reputation of over forty years of shoemaking to many of the representative families of New York is a positive guarantee of unrivalled fit and workmanship 242 Sixth Avenue, New York Near 16th Street Send for Catalogue Correspondence Invited B. Schulich Ladies’ Tailor, Dressmaker and Furrier Has now received his importations from PARIS, LONDON and VIENNA consisting of PLAIN AND FANCY TAILOR GOWNS, RECEPTION, STREET AND CAR DRESSES, FUR GAR- MENTS, CLOAKS, WRAPS, COATS, & RIAGE OPERA KIRTS, © JACKETS, RIDIN HABITS, ETC:.:: which represent the highest talent of the foremost designers of Europe 10 West 35th Street NEW YORK Near Fifth Avenue Ss Ss. ee eS ew Sw = 2S FS eS Se se Alcott and Weekes SPECIALTIES 7-9 East 20th St. BETWEEN BROADWAY AND FIFTH AVENUE ESPECIALLY INVITE ATTENTION TO THEIR EXCLUSIVE LINE OF NOVELTIES IN IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC GOWNS FOR AFTER- NOON AND EVENING WEAR, TAI- LOR-MADE DRESSES, LONG AND SHORT COATS, SKIRTS, NEGLI- GEES, MILLINERY, CORSETS. IN THE READY-TO-WEAR DE- PARTMENT WE HAVE A FULL LINE OF THE ABOVE AND CAN- NOT BE EXCELLED IN THE FIT- TING OF THE SAME. E. A. Morrison @ Son Importers Millinery ] TRIMMED HATS, EXCLUSIVE STYLES IN OUTING, GOLF AND WALKING HATS. SPECIAL ATTENTION TO MOURNING. MISSES’ AND CHILDREN’S HATS AND BONNETS. NECK RUFFS AND FANCY MUFFS. NOVELTY VEILING 8 893 Broadway New York

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WHAT THEY READ NotTs.—Books are selected for review in Vogue chiefly with regard to the interest they have for its readers. Inquiries addressed to Vogue concerning the entertaining or instructive qualities of new publi- cations will receive immediate attention.] THE MAID-AT-ARMS._ By Robert W. Cuampers. Harper AND BROTHERS. Nother colonial novel! And why not? A Certainly there is abundant material in the lite of this country before and dur- ing the Revolution for romantic fiction. Not long ago we reviewed in these columns an ex- cellent story in which Pontiac figured. In the one under review another powerful and haughty Indian, the Mohawk Brandt, is conspicuous. Mr. Chambers places his story in the Mohawk valley, and paints many attractive pictures of wood and fields, frequently seen through eyes of the hero, who comes from the far south to visit his relatives, the Varicks, at Varick Manor. The life there is very interestingly depicted, and many strong and contrasted char- acters come and go. Several gay entertainments take place, which afford the author the oppor- tunity for describing the bountiful and luxurious living of the day; but the approaching storm of the Revolution mutters even in scenes of revelry, and before long the hero and his new friends are thick in the fray. Mr. Chambers has treated his heroine, Dor- othy Varick, with as much sympathy as he has his hero, her cousin George Ormond. Both of them are vital figures and both engage the reader’s interest at once. The one scene in which Mr. Chambers allows his imagination free rein is that of the midnight council of the False-Faces. Taking it all in ail, it is a very readable story. VIEWS AND REVIEWS W. E. Hentey. Sons. (ART). By CHARLES SCRIBNER’S This slight and attractively presented work offers to the thoughtful reader the English critic’s estimates of sixty and more artists of great reputation. Many of these estimates are decidedly interesting ; many strike us as being insufficient ; many seem to us very trite, and many inadequate and not worth while. Mr. Henley’s aim has been to manufacture criticisms that are utterly devoid of sentiment ; he surveys the artists and their works from the coldest in- tellectual platform. His culture is too large and his style too polished to admit of anything he touches failing to interest ; yet, for all that, his criticisms breathe an icy atmosphere. All that he has to say is said most cleverly ; but art, after all, is emotional and a critic des- titute of feeling can never draw one to the masters and masterpieces of which he coldly ap- proves while pointing out their excellences. An emotional critic without learning is a dangerous guide ; but a learned critic without temperament will have but little influence. Mr. Henley complains of Ruskin’s adoration of Turner ; yet, cold as Mr. Henley is, and restrained and reserved as is his tone, he is almost as great a worshipper of Corot; and Rodin he numbers with Michel Angelo, Donatello, Phidias and Lysippus! So, after all, our critic of the hoar frost and icicle has his enthusiasms. The introduction of this work is an extremely interesting Note on Romanticism. Of course, the year is 1830. The author says: ‘** What is called Romanticism—the change, that is, the material the treatment, and the technical meth- ods and ideals of art which was made in the France of Charles x and Louis Philippe—was the outcome of a generation rich in strenuous and potent individualities. The great emctions of the republic and the empire had induced such an effervescence of temperament and genius as the world has not often seen.’’ | Decamps, Raffet, Sainte-Beuve, Disraeli a romantique of the first magnitude in his way and day, Barbier, Duprez, Malibran, Diaz, Troyon, Alfred de Musset, Honoré Daumier; Thackeray, Liszt, Gautier, Dupré, Rousseau, Charles Dickens and Richard Wagner, in whose work the Ro- mantic ambition was to find its most extrava- gant. He cites many great names of the period saying: In the intellectual history of the world it would, I apprehend, be difficult, if not impossible to name an epoch in which so many men attained to such eminence in so many of the arts at once. We think of the age of Pericles as the age of Sculpture, of the age of Elizabeth, as the age of the Poetic Drama. Romanticism brings into action the full orchestra of the arts. Good work was done in poetry and drama, history and fiction, painting, sculpture and journalism, singing and acting, symphony and opera and song; and though much of it has perished, much has lived to be ranked with the best of its kind. For those who are prone to think the nineteenth century devoid of interest this essay is of im- portance ; for those who study the influences of great minds it is of still more importance ; it is avery thoughtful, suggestive and valuable piece of criticism ; it is condensed and it is deep in its reasoning. It is worth all the rest of the book put together, although it is less than a fourth of it. Mr. Henley brings out, as we do not remember having seen elsewhere, the im- portant part Scott and Byron played in this movement. Another thing Mr. Henley says is worth noting : The men of 1830 had the genius of their material, the faculty of words, sounds, colors, situations was innate in them; their use of it is always original and sound, and is very often of exemplary excellence. The Note of Romanticism is well worth reading. THE INSANE ROOT. By Mrs. Camp- BELL Prarep. Funk & WAGNALLS. As fantastic a tale, this, as ever suggested it- self to the imagination of an author. An Ori- ental with the flavor of mysticism so character- istic of the Orientals that figure in the novels of the western world, Isadas Pasha, is ambassador to the court of St. James from the emperor of Abarsa. His menage in London includes a beautiful ward, Rachel, beloved of Ruel Bey, an ambitious young man in the ambassador’s train. Rachel is a storm-centre, not only be- cause she is adored by two men—the second a middle-aged physician, Marillier—but on ac- count of the mystery that attaches to her par- entage, her position in the ambassador’s house being regarded as so equivocal that the women of London society will have naught of her. Rachel’s parentage, as revealed in the course of the story, is sufficiently spectacular to fit admi- rably into a drama of ** thrills,’’ as indeed is the fastastic invention of the ‘insane root’’ (the mandrake) which lowly plant is made to take on weird characteristics. The ambassador re- garded the insane root, which he kept enclosed in a small box, with superstition, and he left it by will to Dr. Marillier. Discovering that the mandrake has surprising powers, the Doctor employs it to enable him to assume the body of Ruel Bey, the lover of Rachel and the Doctor’s rival, who is killed by accident. With the exterior of Ruel and the mind and soul of Maril- lier, this coinposite personality seeks Rachel, and an interview surprising to her in many respects takes place. But the complications on this oc- casion are as nothing compared to those which grow out of Marillier’s unfamiliarity with the details of the embassy work that Ruel Bey had at his finger ends. Finally, in a highly melo- dramatic scene, Marillier’s dual personality has a fearful struggle in a tower before Rachel, the grossness of Ruel and the nobility of the physi- cian striving for mastery. The scene and its setting is suggestive of a low grade of melo- drama, Then follow some fantastic imagin- ings in connection with the mandrake root, and there is a final catastrophe which it would be hard to outdo as a *‘ thriller’’ if seen upon the stage. The publishers’ announcement mentions the story as suggesting Stevenson’s Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde and Bulwer’s A Strange Story. It seems incredible that any reader familiar with these works should be reminded of them by The Insane Root, even remotely. THE THINGS THAT ARE C/ESAR’S. By BD. APPLETON & Co. ReGcinaAtD WricHt KaAurFrMANn. This story is one with a theme, and this theme is a presentation of the question whether a man who has paid the penalty for a crime in financial matters, by serving his term in jail, has cancelled his debt, or not. The question may possess interest as a question, but certainly as the background for a story, and a story, moreover, formed of such thin tissue and wrapped around such dull lay figures, it makes very stupid read- ing. Any poor individual that is forced to read it, would be willing enough to obey the peremp- tory title and ‘‘ render it to Czsar,’’ or any one else. LITERARY GOSSIP BAILEY’S LONG NEGLECTED FESTUS Hilip James Bailey, whose death is an- P nounced from Nottingham, England, was a striking example of a man who had long outlived his popularity. Bailey pub- lished in 1839, at the age of twenty-three, his ambitious epic Festus, a work which at once attained astonishing popularity. He was seri- ously hailed as the greatest poet of the age, and his epic was certainly the most successful since Paradise Lost. Even brother poets of the time who afterward attained high rank, notably Tenny- son and Browning, were much impressed with Festus. Bailey’s popularity was followed by a long period of neglect, though his poem continued to be read by students of literature, and to be treated in critical works discussing the poetry of the period. Neglect, however, had no effect upon Bailey. He believed himself a great poet, and he continued from time to time to enlarge his epic, until it became one of the longest poems in the language. There was a revival of interest in Bailey when, in 1889, a jubilee edi- tion of Festus was published, and the epic came in for a good deal of favorable review- ing. Many men of forty-five or fifty will recall one of the thirty American editions of Festus, a thick duodecimo volume with gilded thunder- bolts on the cloth cover, into which they may have dipped, and where they found no little thought, plenty of eloquence and many rich and boldly original figures of speech. These were the things that gave the poem its first popularity, but they did not suffice to make it permanently popular, and everybody save the author came to believe that it was not a great work. Bailey was bred to the law, but he never practiced his profession. He wrote besides Festus a satire in verse entitled The Age, and a rather notable prose work on the inter- national policy of the Great Powers. Very re- cently he received the degree of LL.D. from the University of Glasgow. Those who read Festus now, and are un- able to comprehend how its author could have been regarded as the first English poet of his time, must bear in mind that the poem was published four years after the death of Coleridge, when Wordsworth had ceased to write and Tennyson and Browning, although before the public, were not generally recognized as great poets. As to Swinburne and Rossetti, they were yet in childhood. The youth of the author may also have helped him to fame. Keats, Shelley and Byron had all won reputa- tion in youth, and the world of English readers was on the lookout for youthful prodigies. POETRY AND PROFITS A correspondent of the New York Times Saturday Review argues that poetry is quite as profitable financially as prose, if we take into consideration the relatively large amount of prose and the relatively small amount of verse that is published. In proportion to the number of volumes of prose and of verse issued, he thinks there are quite as many successful vol- umes of verse as of prose. If the publishers should be interrogated on this point they would probably tell a different story. Most volumes of verse issued from the press are paid for by the authors themselves. Furthermore, volumes of verse are usually issued in much smaller editions than volumes of prose. It could probably be abundantly demonstrated also, that the sales of the most successful vol- umes of verse are small compared with the sales of successful prose works. It is safe to say that a volume of new verse by no living poet, save perhaps Mr. Kipling, is likely to sell up to five thousand copies in a year, The poetry of the late Coventry Patmore once sold enormously in cheap editions, but the sales of Tennyson’s verse in the year of publication were small com- pared with the sales of popular novels in our own time. Since Longfellow, the sales of no American poet have really been large, save per- haps those of men like Professor Markham, §52 who have attracted attention by single unusual popularity. The truth is that really few Pertony poetry with pleasure. This is true not , the ignorant, but of the educated, Itis indeed, of many persons who read the bes literature. If all in any company of fifty ond intelligent persons of what we call tion, could be induced to tell the tru their attitude toward poetry, o Probably forty-five of them would own that they dig habitually read the great poets of any peri probably at least forty of them would ¢, that most poetic masterpieces bored them, DEATH OF EMILE ZOLA ) ages Zola, the famous master of naturalistic school of French fi. was found dead at his apartment Paris on the morning of 29 September. }, been asphyxiated by coal gas from a stoye which the bedroom was heated. Madam. 7 also was in a semi-unconscious state whe, and her husband were found, but is likely to cover, Emile Edouard Charles Antoine 7 was the son of an Italian engineer liyj France, and was born at Paris in April, 1 His boyhood was passed at Aix, but afte, father’s death poverty drove the youth an mother to Paris, where after a far from brig career at school, Zola found employment clerk in the publishing house of Hachette, twenty-four he gave up his clerkship, and ty his life as a man of letters. He had there many years of deep poverty, during which did almost every kind of newspaper wi His early fiction did not give any strong hi the character that was to distinguish his work, and to make him the most discused erary man of his time. Late in the & however, he published La Confession de (; in which for the first time appears his 1 naturalism. Thérése Raquin was anoth the same sort, picturing a group of sordi criminal lives. In the Rougon-Macquart series of » Zola undertook to develop his theory of } ity. These at the same time were as n naturalistic as the other books named, books of this series had an enormous s many languages, and placed the authord hight of his fame. L’ Assommoir, Na Le Debacle are among them. La Tem brutally faithful picture of peasant life worst, La Reve, a delicious idyllic little not of this series, shows Zola in a different character from that displayed i books that made him world-famous, his later works were Lourdes, Féconiit, The Monomaniacs. While Zola was still an object of ext severe criticism because of his peculiar the of art, but while he was also at the hight literary career, he suddenly won the admin of the world by coming to the defense of tain Alfred Dreyfus, then suffering life i onment after having been convicted by« martial of selling the military secrets country. Zola was prosecuted for his asst the authorities, convicted, and sentenced t and imprisonment. _In order to avoid th ter, he took refuge in England, and retum France only after the pardon of Drey don brought about largely by the part thit himself had taken in the affair. It is pretty generally recognized no¥ Zola’s theory of extreme naturalism in fic unsound, from the point of view of thet artist, but his power and his honesty of are also recognized, though some com critics still insist that there was an elem commercialism in his filth. As for Zo’ self, he is best explained by what he has § his own work. He always insisted that hi pose was thoroughly and solely scientific, ® novel should be written only from observ actual life; that as the pathologist is ine in the diseased rather than in the sound} body, so the naturalistic artist in literatut terested in the morally diseased rather in human beings of normal character. these views he strove to present the ® side of life, and did it with a ternble! Meanwhile he grew rich fro: his books Zola was by far the greatest ma school, but he will probably, in the en, far below Balzac among Frenchmen, 4 stoi among contemporaries of other nations. New Y¢ lexander her metal Noe Galle Keppel’s Deserted Vi ov. Wunderli randt, Wh ov. Astor Libi pr Hugo an Lenox Lit vod engrav Brookly: ulpture an eil, and c intings by Chicago. eramic Art r, A. E. Al Philadel, ociety. Oils ists, Unt Washing ition of hist EX New Yo nnual of the lub, 30 Oc The Art C Jniversity 5 ov. Waldorf- A: Vassili Veres' he painting Fine Arts ooms. Phe d church d Fine Arts ew York V Is and mini: ceived 10 an Fine Arts n. Seven! xhibits recei Boston.—' y Society. astel. 19g Ni Chicago. xhibition of p 7 Dec. Art Institut: Dec. to 10 Ja Philadel: finiature Pa A New Yo nglish and \ namels, Daily, 23 Ov 257 F.fth 3 Oct. to 1 New Yorl Iver, antique Norman’s. riture and cu . M. Knickerbo rt objects. .M Silo’s (Do eramics, br: f Oct, 1. co The joint ure Society a hich will vew York, g ¢ most beau ¢ season. ot held an xhibit many rhich will be rena, intersp¢ aves and rr, anged in ; harmonious en devised A few of the xeorge Grey ummer, the s t Harrisburg, il marble hig Pan and Mai haus, who wil um, and a $ lessts, Philip p “WS*er and

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true not ¢ ed. Itix EXHIBITIONS NOW ON d the bex rhe Nati lub. M ork.—The National Arts Club. r. f fifty ordi oly W. Drake's collection of copper aad -all ood ther metal work. Until Nov. the truth x Noe Gallery. Works by American artists. c 5 G i illustrating The obably at Keppel’s Gallery. Drawings nT . deserted Village, by Mr. E. A. Abbey. ov. . Wunderlich’s Gallery. Rare prints by Durer, Rem- Whistler and Seymour Haden. Until 15 randt, ed them, ov. astor Library. Portraits and caricatures of Vic- . Hugo and reproductions of his own drawings. Lenox Library. Special exhibition of American wod engravings. Until 1 Dec. $ ~ et tet f rooklya. — Pratt Institute. Exhibition o te iad sketches by Mr. Herman A. Mac- cil, and copies, drawings and sketches of mural aintings by Mr George W. Breck. Until 25 Oct. Master of French fics apartment tember, h; Chicago.—Art Institute. Annual of the Chicago m 2 Gow eramic Art Association, and pictures of children by Madame Mir, A. E. Albright. Until 1 Oct. state when Philadelphia.—Earle Galleries. American Art ety. Oils, water colors and sculpture by American - is li oci E ' 7 ists, Until § Nov. — 4 Washington.—Congressional Library. Exhi- Ineer living MME sion of historic books and bookbindings. n April, 1 cy but after EXHIBITIONS TO COME youth a New York.—Madison Square Garden. Fifth ir from briiMinnual of the National Sculpture Society and Florist t. to 6 Nov. nploymen Jub, 30 Oct. i t The Art Culture League, of the Rivington Street achette, ‘niversity Settlement. First exhibition. 1 to 8 ship, and bl oy, > had there Waldorf-Astoria,—Astor Gallery. Works by Mr iring whic assili Verestchagin, including his war pictures and , “Mme painting The Battle of San Juan. 13 to 26 Nov. spaper v § Fine Arts Building. Architectural League’s ] strong bi ooms. Photographs of modern church buildings iguish his nd church decorations, From § Nov. st discussed Fine Arts Gallery. Thirteenth annual of the in the sammew York Water Color Club. Water colors, pas- sion de Ch Is and miniatures. 22 Nov,to 14 Dec. Exhibits é ceived 10 and 11 Nov. ears his 1 Fine Arts Galleries. National Academy of De- Was aNnotiien. Seventy-eighth annual, 3 to 31 Jan., 1903. > of sordifmmexhibits received 15, 16 and 17 Dec Boston.—Copley Hall. Second annual of Cop- - y Society. Original works in oil, water-color and eries of 1 astel. 19 Nov. to 16 Dec. heory of bi Chicago.—Art Institute. Fourteenth annual were as xhibition of oil paintings and sculpture. 29 Oct. named, p 7 Dec. Lormous & Art Institute. Exhibition of Arts and Crafts, 16 Dec, to 10 Jan. e author dj Philadelyphia.—The Pennsylvania Society of finiature Painters. 3 to 15 Nov. AUCTION SALES New York.—Silo’s (Uptown). noir, Nan La Ter sant. life yllic little —s ieglyet 4 nglish and Venetian antique furniture, bronzes, enil namels, curios, miniatures and paintings. Fécondit Daily, 23 Oct. tol Nov. _ 2PM. | 257 F.fth Avenue. Oriental rugs. Daily, _ 3 Oct. tol Nov. 3 P. M. : peculiar th New York Art Galleries. Furniture, brasses, the hight liver, antiques, etc. 24 Oct. 2.30 Pe M. re Norman S. Porcelains, rugs, draperies, laces, defense of Qqem™ture and paintings. 23 and 24 Oct. 2 rng on | wicted by nickerbocker Furniture, tapestries and + secrets Ga objects. 23 Oct. and following days. 2 ee .M pete Silo’s (Downtown). Furniture, art objects, o avoid tS, bronzes, clocks, etc. 23, 24 and and stat 5 Oct. 1.30 P. M. Dreyfus e part thi GOSSIP CONCERNING EXHIBITIONS nized now a : Jism in fc The joint exhibition of the National Sculp- w of the lime” Society and the New York Florists’ Club, onesty of rhich will pen in Madison Square Garden, ome commmec” York, on 30 Oct., promises to be one of s an elemegme'* Most beautiful and interesting art shows of - for Zok he season. The Sculpture Society, which has + he has § ot held an exhibition for several years, will ed that hi ahibit many important statues and groups, scientific, fame" Will be placed in different parts of the n observa") Interspersed with tropical plants, autumn cist is int@me'*S 2nd rare and beautiful flowers, ar- email anged _in a definite plan to form an Titeratute | MOMlous whole. This general scheme has od rathe Mee” devised by Mr. Albert Randolph Ross. aati few of the artists represented will be Mr. nt the seurge Gr y Bernard, _who was awarded, this terrible im. "™*T» the sculpture for the new state capitol his books ‘Harri rg, Pa., and who will show a colos- est maa, “le ngure, The Hewer, and statues of che oof ” and Maidenhood ; Mr. Charles H. Nie- hmen, 2 paus, who will show a group, Triumphal Re- pee Ym, and a statue entitled, The Driller, and lewrs. Philip Martiny, Isidore Konti, Bitter, ‘wster and Schmitt, who will exhibit foun- tains. Messrs. Carl Bitter, C. A. Lopez and Augustus Lukemen form the committee in charge of placing the exhibits, and Messrs. Daniel C. French, Herbert Adams, H. A. MacNeil, Charles Grafly, Lorado Taft and B. L. Pratt the committee of acceptance. The Hugo exhibition which consists of por- traits, caricatures and reproductions of the poet’s drawings and which has occupied the print gallery of the Lenox Library Building all sum- mer, has been transferred to the Astor Library, where it will remain for some time. On Monday last a special exhibition of rare prints by Durer, Rembrandt, Whistler and Sey- mour Haden was opened at Wunderlich’s gal- lery, in New York. Besides this exhibition there may be seen at the gallery some new etchings by A. H. Haig, notably those of the cathedrals of St. Zeno, Verona, and the Ulm cathedral, and a mezzotint by W. Henderson after John Hoppner’s portrait of the Countess of Oxford and child. At the Tooth galleries in New York there will shortly be placed on exhibition a number of works, in water colors and pastels, of wild ani- mals by Mr. Arthur Warde, the English artist, who has annually exhibited at these galleries for the past few years. Messrs, Knoedler, of New York, have re- cently announced the opening of a branch gal- lery at 15 Old Bond street, London. Among the coming exhibitions to be held at their New York galleries are portraits by M. Chartran, water colors by Mr. Winslow Homer and re- cent paintings by Mr. William M. Chase. While Mr. Chase’s pictures are on exhibition it is rumored, that Mr. Sargent’s portrait of him will also be shown. This portrait, it will be emembered, was ordered by the pupils of Mr. Chase’s art schools, and is to be presented by them to the Metropolitan Art Museum of New York. On g Oct. the first exhibition of the new organization —the American Art Society—was opened at Earle’s Gallery, in Philadelphia. While the Society is composed mostly of Phila- delphia artists, there are many from other parts of the country, and all American artists are eligible. Only members are permitted to ex- hibit, but members, whose annnal dues are $10, have the privilege of exhibiting five pictures. There are 369 oil paintings, 116 water colors, and several pieces of sculpture in the present show, among which are examples by Messrs. C. F. Davis, George Inness, Jr., Wyant, Shurt- leff, Bogert, Bruce Crane, Thomas, Peter Moran, Philip, Carl Weber, Clark, Bunce, Grayson, Ranger, Mora, Carl Neuman, Dew- ing, Franzen and C. Y. Turner. From Paris comes the report that several of the American artists, who have latterly formed part of the colony there are about to return to this country, among them Mr. Frank Bicknell, Mr. Robert Van Boskerck, Mr. Henry Golden and Mr. Michael de Tarnowsky. During the month of November one of the most important art sales ot the Paris season is to take place at the Hotel des Ventes, when the valuable collection of the late Mme. Lelong, who was the widow of Camille Lelong, the connoisseur and dealer, will be disposed of. It is said that the collection which consists of paintings and art objects in the Hotel de la Rochefoucauld, contains many examples of eighteenth century French masters and is worth several million francs. A large commission recently received by M. Edouard Détaille is for a great painting repre- senting the Days of July, 1830, to be placed in the Parthenon under the mosaic of Christ by Hébert. In the chapels there will be a large painting of the Orators of the Revolution, de- signed by Dolore, and the Generals of the Re- volution, now being completed by Mr. Antoine Mercié. ‘The Villa Borghese at Rome has been pur- chased by the Italian Government, which some time ago acquired its art collection, for $660,- 000 of which, it is reported, $60,000 was con- tributed by King Victor Emanuel. It will be turned into a public park and museum for which it is admirably adapted, the gardens containing many small temples and much statuary and the casino a collection of sculpture and well ar- ranged gallery. It is probable that the valuable Masaranti collection bought by Mr. Henry Walters, of Baltimore, which is now in New York, will not be exhibited privately or to the public for some time to come. Mr. Walters contem- plates building a new gallery in Baltimore to re- ceive the collection and it will not be shown until this has been completed and the collection has been installed. Mr. E. W. Keyser, of Baltimore has been commissioned by the Legislature of Maryland to model a bust of Admiral Schley for the An- napolis State House. The design will show the admiral in uniform and will be cast in bronze. Mr. Keyser is a pupil of Saint Gau- dens and Puech, the French sculptor, and a member of the National Sculpture Society. Among the new adornments to the city of Chicago will be a fountain, designed by Mr. C. J. Mulligan, for Independence Square, consist- ing of three children setting off Roman candles and one waving an American flag, the group to be lighted by electricity at night, and a replica of Mr. Daniel C. French's statue of George Washington, erected in Paris, to be placed in Washington Park. A prize of $250 has been offered by the management of the Lewis and Clark Centen- nial, to be held at Portland, Oregon, in 1905, for a design for symbolic poster, one foot square and done in four colors. Designs should be sent to Mr. T. U. Fleischner, of Portland, before 1 March, 1903. When Mr. John G. Sargent comes to this country during the winter it is thought he will bring with him the final decorations for the hall of the Boston Public Library, which, it is said, have been completed. In the niches of the Boston Symphony Hall there have bcen placed plaster casts of noted Italian and Grecian stat- ues, among them Euripides, Anacreon, the Marble Faun, the Amazon Aéschines, Soph- ocles, the Apollo Belvedere and Diana. The city of Venice has offered a prize of $600, in a competition to Italian and foreign artists, for a design for a large gold medal to be awarded at the International Art Exhibition to be held in 1903. The design must be an alle- gorical representation of the art of Venice, with inscriptions and a space left for the name of the winner of the medal. Details of the competi- tion, which will close on 31 Jan. next, may be obtained from the general secretary of the exhi- bition at Venice. The statue of Balzac given to the city of Paris by the Société des Belles-Lettres is soon to be unveiled in the Avenue de Friedland. The order for the work was first given to M. De Vassetol, but his design was rejected and the commission turned over to M. Rodin. Ro- din’s design, which provoked much discussion and adverse criticism, was in turn rejected and M. Falguiére took up the work, but dying soon afterward, it was finally completed by M. Du- bois. The work of restoring the Peterborough ca- thedral, which has been going on for eighteen years, and has cost about $400,000, is now finished, and what is one of the finest pieces of architecture in Europe has been strengthened against the ravages of time for centuries to come. It has now been decided to restore the old hall in the City Hall of Nuremberg, which was built in 1522 and contains frescoes by Diirer and stained glass by Hirschvogel. Among the memorials to Queen Victoria a stained glass window by Mr. Pace, whose work isto be seen in St. George’s Chapel and Whip- ingham Church, Isle of Wight, has recently been placed in the private chapel at Windsor by order ot King Edward. An exhibition of photographs of modern church buildings and church decorations, by noted American and foreign architects and artists, will be opened in the rooms of the Architectural League, in New York on 5 November. From this exhibition a number of works will be selected for the circuit éxhibition of the Architectural League of America. During December there will be held in Phila- delphia an exhibition of works by amateur artists. Further information on this subject may be obtained from Mr. F. W. Palmer, 712 Filbert street, Philadelphia. An exhibition of religious art is now being held at the city of Diisseldorf, Germany, which contains many fine examples of cld French and German gold work and a large collection of casts and sculptures from the famous cathedrals. It is said that this collection is the beginning of a permanent collection of comparative sculpture at Berlin. ART SCHOOLS As has already been announced the Art Stu- dents’ League of New York opened for its winter season several weeks ago, but it was not until last week that the Evelyn Nordhoff Bind- ery, which is now part of the League Associa- tion, and has its work shops in the Fine Arts building, began its winter work. This course is under the instruction of Miss Florence Foote who was a pupil of Mr. T. J. Cobden Sanderson, of London. The League as form- erly will hold monthly exhibitions of students’ work, In the evening free art classes of Cooper Union in New York, there are, this year, 1,306 pupils ; in the woman's day art classes 250 pupils, and in the new class of naval architecture 100 pupils, Mr. Walter Scott Perry, the Director of Fine Arts at the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, will again give a series of free illustrated art lec- tures in the Assembly Hall of the Institute on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, at four o'clock, The subjects so far announced are architecture, sculpture and decoration. Vhe classes of the Art Academy of Cincin- nati were opened for the winter during the first week of October. Both the elementary and advanced classes in drawing, painting, carv- ing and decorative design are under the instruc- tion of competent artists and owing to the en- dowment of the Academy the tuition fees are exceptionally low. The annual meeting of the Columbus Art Association will be held on November fourth at which time an illustrated leccure on Symbolism in Art, its Use and Abuse, will be delivered by Mrs. Rath-Merrill. The third season of the New York Guild of Arts and Crafts has opened at the Guild House, 109 East 23rd Street, New York. Basketry, book-binding, design, brush drawing, metal work, and wood and leather carving are taught. Signor G. Tagliapietra, formerly first baritone of the Maurice Strakosch, Max Maretzek, Emma Abbott, de Vivo, Emma Zuch and Colonel Mapleson Opera Companies, and the Gilmore, Strauss and Theodore Thomas Con- cert Companies, will give vocal instruction at his residence, 343 W. 34th St., New York.—Advt. The Egyptian Cigarette of Quality At your club or dealer's AROMATIC DELICACY— MILDNESS—PURITY

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-_-- - GERTRUDE BENNETT Iss Gertrude Bennett, who is playing M with Henrietta Crossman in The Sword of the King at Wallack’s Theatre, commenced her stage career in 1901, in Kirk La Shelle’s company, taking the part of Kate Carnegie in the Bonnie Brier Bush with J. H. Stoddart. She gained popularity by the part she took in a series of her own recitals at the Waldorf-As- toria. Her greatest successes have been Amy Faulkner in The Choir Invisible, Florence Wil- liams in Unleavened Bread and lately with Daniel Frohman Stock Company as Enid in Frocks and Frills. MISS ASHLEY’S GOWNS WORN IN THE COUNTRY GIRL , l \He photograph at foot of page shows Miss Ashiey in a gown of scarlet net. The skirt is divided in sections by three wavy lines of crépe de chine simulating fiounces without the fullness of the flounce. The entire dress is embroidered heavily in silk in renaissance design. The coat is a three-quarter half-fitting affair of net embroidered similarly to the skirt and outlined with wavy bands of crépe de chine. Over the shoulders are orna- ments of braid with dangling tops that hang over the sleeves. The sleeves are of the em- broidered net outlined with crépe de chine to the elbow where they end in a decided flare and there are undersleeves of plaited red chiffon the fullness of which is held to the wrist with a deep cuff of embroidered net. With this gown Miss Ashley carries a semi-transparent parasol of the scarlet net lined with chiffon. Her hat, which is adeciied poke, is a mass of scarlet poppies. The photograph at the left pictures the dainty gown of white veiling painted in orange- tinted tiger lilies and greenish leaves ; veiled and lined with orange and all the dancing petticoats are of orange. The skirt is very simply made, being shirred on two large cords which keep it he “at ave. forming a yoke. They are twisted so as to form adesign over a second tiny yoke of Valen- ciennes lace. The sleeves are gathered on two cords across the top and fall to the elbow fin- ished with a little ruffle like the bottom of a skirt. Undersleeve of white chiffon. There is a wide belt of orange taffeta with two shirred cords in the back. The remaining picture is of the white Em- pire gown embroidered in Empire leaves done in silver and rhinestones. The bodice is a series of straps of diamonds; also the sleeves, and from these straps of diamonds fall long angel sleeves of tulle which soften the gown. GOSSIP 7 ‘Hose who have seen Blanche Bates in Under Two Flags and in the one-act tragedy, Madame Butterfly, and have noted the intelligence and sympathy with which the actress interpreted the latter rdle, cannot but regard time spent on such a play as the melodrama as time lost for her. It is a positive pleasure, therefore, that the public is to see this talented player in the pretentious Japanese drama of Japan which David Belasco and John Luther Long have written in collaboration. There are four acts and twelve scenes, and the work has been in preparation for months. About a fort - night ago rehearsals of it were begun at the Belasco Theatre. The first performance is to be given about the middle of November in Washington, and it is arranged that its season here shall begin 2 December. It will, of course, be given at the Belasco Theatre. A most capable supporting company has been engaged. The recent fashion of naming playhouses after the owner of the theatre, as was the case with the Forty-fourth Street house and the close around the hips. From there it swings in soft, full folds. It is finished at the bottom with three soft, old-fashioned gathered ruffles about four inches wide each. The bodice is a shirred affair also with the cords running across and Belasco one in Forty-second Street, has not been followed by Reginald De Koven, who has determined to build him a theatre adjoining that of Belasco. Lyric has been selected as the name, as the house is to be devoted to comic opera. It is planned to have it Opened in g tober of next year. Its seating Capacity ig ty fifteen hundred. It is a bit amusing that a play with the chee, ful title of The Joy of Living should havei opening postponed because a leading man of the company found life the reverse of joyful wit his professional associates, and he has withdraw from the cast. ‘The opening date of the Sude mann play is now set down for this evening —Up to last night The Second Mrs, Tangu: ray has been played by Mrs. Patrick Campbel —Mrs. Le Moyne had a triumphant startiy out on the 13 October with her new ply. Among Those Present, the occasion of its fir presentation being a fashionable event in Mon real, where the play made its début. Mn. k Moyne’s rdle is that of a cheery society leader (a mild edition of Mrs. Jack as to breezines). The dialogue is crisp and bright and the plot ingenious. The audience became wildly thusiastic after the third act, and it would nt cease from applauding until the star came ot time after time and bowed her acknowled- ments. Mrs. Le Moyne is due shortly at th Garden Theatre, when the New York publi will have an opportunity of seeing how the new rdle becomes the actress. Audrey, Miss Mary Johnston’s widely cir culated novel, has been done into a play) Miss Harriet Ford and E. F. Boddington, th tragic close of the story being modified toé happy ending in the play. Audrey is to be at the Madison Square Theatre 18 November, immediately after the close of the Two Schoos season. Eleanor Robson is to appear in the title réle.—At the Garrick, the old-time Cap tain Marshall play, His Excellency The Gover nor, has displaced the double bill, There’ Many a Slip and At the Telephone. Jes Millward, Leo Ditrichstein and Edwin Stevets are among those who appear in the revival.— Robert Edeson is doing a fine business in other cities with Soldiers of Fortune, and his popult™ ity is shared by his wife Ellen Burg.—Hilé Spong, who has an inconsequential réle in Ins, will continue to appear in that play until about the first of December, when she will appear ® the Empire Theatre stage along with Willa Faversham. This actor, by the way, is to ope his season in a new play by Henry V. Esmoné and to have a charming leading woman om paratively little known on this side of the watt who is d Davis, F pccess. The Stub the title 0 Dg js soon t mong thes Hone, a dat atest nove play, Ev ith an atte! pry atmosp! he allegory Hearts A! s season at » Madeline merican In nnie Irish ws from M e company n has been rious theat ppear, is beis he rumor is bar on the eatre will 1 mdams’s time ed by Wi e, Sir Artl Jefferson WSpaper no cellent busi e considera should be ; er it is give anything o: Angelis use he is re erely a buff le seems saf The somey ezy Mrs, | ore breezy ¢ (which tw. the Victori e end of its due at the | et. The Si BY Theatre The Fadett ature at .

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ened in mm Acity is to h the chee, ld have is man of th joyful with withdraw ‘the Suder is evening s. Tangue _ Campbel. int starting new play of its fire t in Mont Mrs. le ciety leader reezines). the plots wildly Cle would not r came out knowledg- rtly at the ork publ w the new widely cit- a play by ngton, the ified toa is to be on Jovember, ve) Schools ~ar in the time Cap he Gover There s ce. Jesse n Stevens revival.— s in other s populat- 7, —Hild le in Ins, intil about appear a » Williaa is to opel Esmoné, nan com she watel, who is a prime London favorite— Fay avis, who played Iris so long in London, and ho ‘ud it so well. Miss Davis is a Boston tress, and it is expected that the combination Cc v. Esmond, playwright, and Faversham 4 Davis, players will prove a great pecuniary BCCeSS. The Stubbornness of Geraldine is continued the title of the play, in which Mary Manner- nto appear at the Garrick Theatre. mong the supporting company is Mrs. Charles bone, a daughter of Mr. John Hoey.—The atest novelty of the season is the old moral- , play, Everyman, which has been presented th an attempt at reproducing a fifteenth cen- wy atmosphere. By this time the subject of 4c allegory is familiar to most readers. Dg js S00 Hearts Aflame, which ended a very prosper- ; season at the Bijou last Saturday, gave way , Madeline Lucette Ryley’s new play, An MINNIE ASHLEY merican Invasion, in which J. E. Dodson and nie Irish have the principal rdles.—Tne ws from Maud Adams is so discouraging that e company collected to support her this sea- n has been disbanded, and her time in the rious theatres, at which she was due to ppear, is being filled up with other attractions. he rumor is the young actress may never ap- ar on the stage again, in which case the eatre will lose an engaging personality. Miss Bdams’s time at the Empire Theatre is to be led by William Faversham.—The Emerald ¢, Sir Arthur Sullivan’s last opera interpreted Jefferson de Angelis, although it had little wspaper notice after the opening night, did an cellent business at the Herald Square during ¢ considerable length of time it was there. assured of a warm welcome wher- erit is given, as the music of it is far superior anything on the light opera stage to-day. As e Angelis isa favorite, and deservedly so be- use he is really a comedian of ability, and not erely a buffoon, the success of The Emerald ¢ seems safe to predict, should b The somewhat queer combination of the very tezy Mrs, Jack of Alice Fisher and the still ore breezy creature, the Italian orchestra lead- (which two attractions have filled in evenings the Victoria Theatre), is slowly approaching e end of its dual appearance, as Eleanora Duse due at the Victoria the first week in Novem- The Silver Slipper will soon be a Broad- by Theatre attraction. ‘ut Fadettes Women’s Orchestra, which is ‘ature at continuous performance houses, is an organization which does creditable work and that deserves the popularity it is achieving. It is a **top-liner”’’ in the language of the pro- fession, at houses like Keith’s, and the indica- MINNIE ASHLEY tions are that the orchestra can find very profit- able employment throughout the entire season. Iris is playing to the fullest capacity of the Cri- terion Theatre, in spite of the fact that Virginia Harned is not satisfactory in the title-rolé.— Minnie Ashley is wirning many charming com- pliments for her work in A Country Girl at Daly’s, William Norris is also a capital come- MINNIE ASHLEY dian, whose work in this pretty musical comedy is winning deserved commendation from critics and public alike. Excellent as is The Country Girl, the burden of making it a prime favorite has rested on Miss Ashley and Mr. Norris, and they have aquitted themselves of the task in so excellent a fashion that the comedy is drawing vii crowded houses. Richard Mansfield’s long- heralded production of Julius Cesar was brought out last week in Chicago, and proved to be one of the most ambitious Shakespearian revivals ever seen in this country. The stage pictures are exceptionally beautiful and the handling of producd with an amount of press agent drum- beating which attracts world-wide attention. The notice taken of his work from such a dis- tinguished source will, of course, hive the re- sult of awakening a Keener interest in it than ever, GERTRODE BENNETT the mobs a triumph of realism. Mr. Mans- field’s rolé is that of Brutus, which, it is per- haps needless to say, he fills with distinction. Hall Caine is in financial luck, the Vatican having, it seems unwisely to many, assailed through its recognized organ, The Eternal City, which, after a tremendous book sale, is being Readers of Vogue inquiring names of shops where articles are purchasable should enclose stamped and addressed en- velope for reply, and state page and date.

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Zz © a oO es) wn & 4 i Oo — wn ~ 4 > a = 3) e) rn A Zz © 9) ~n < tx ies °o ”n Z oO E ~ oO ” [se Qa ra) 3 ~” nn Z. 2 a ~ a, oO ~” 3 fa) % © ze

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THE GARDNER BUST SUPPORT An indispensable article of dress when a shirt waist is worn and for golf, tennis, and other out-door sports its advantages are manifest. An eminently comfortable, sensible and practical support. Made of double-faced satin ribbon extremely light in weight and can be worn either with or without a corset. Price $5.00. U.S. When ordering simply give bust measurement as no fitting is required. Charges prepaid to any address in the MANUFACTURED ONLY BY MME. GARDNER CORSETS MADE TO ORDER 52 West 2ist Street All the newest [lodels. Corsets for reducing Corpulency and Lengthening the Waist PERFECT FIT GUARANTEED Our corsets are universally admitted to be of Superior Style, Finish and Workmanship. ~ VOGUE sINDING CASES $ 4 : a z ad : olding three months 65 Cents ach. Sent post-paid to anv ddress in the United States Green bn receipt of price. loth, stamped in gold. WEsT hs T OGUE, saw voRe New principle of removing SUPERFLUOUS HAIR The only method endorsed by physicians, surgeons, dermatologists and medical journals SURE, SAFE, QUICK, PAINLESS. INEXPENSIVE, FAR BETTER THAN ELECTRICITY X-RAY, PEROXID, DEPILATORIES OR SHAVING De Miracle was evoived by much Chemical experiment, and a thorough knowledge of the produc tive conditions of the hair follicle. Heretofore this remarkable preparation has been offered to the Medical fraternity exclusively, and discussed in Medical publications, which were not accessible to the general public. Now, however, we wish all to know more about it: hence our reason for presenting De Miracle through the lay press. De Miracle will be sent sealed to any address in the U.S. on receipt of $1.co. Your money back if it fails to do all that ts claimed for it. : ; Booklet and endorsements mailed sealed on request. Correspondence strictly confidential. DeMIRACLE CHEMICAL CO. 50 University Place, New York, U. S.A. STOP THAT SCOWLING! You can do it with Rinkelout Remove the wrinkles between the eyes and lines from the forehead by wearing the Rinkelout. Not a cos- metic but made of the finest flesh colored satin. Absolutely harmless. Sent postpaid on receipt of $1.00 The Rinkelout Co., 65c Franklin St., Boston, Mass. SPOOL SILK When you go shopping don’t simply say “* A spool of silk," because you can secure more silk, better silk, brighter silk, smoother silk and stronger silk if yo. will only ask for ** Corticelli..” We also make the best silk for Art Needlework, Purses, Chatelaine Bags, Mountmelick Embroidery, etc. Write us what you want. Fall Fashion Booket mailed free, CORTICELLI SILK MILLS 32 Nonotuck Street, Florence, Mass. TOO STRONG TO BREAK

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FOR THE HOSTESS A HALLOWEEN FROLIC Hen the calender of saint’s days was V y compiled, there was found to be one day too many, so for fear some worthy saint had been omitted, and also to make provision for those saints who might be canon- ized in the future, the first of November was dedicated to all saints—hence its name. The evening before, occurring on the thirty-first of October, was held to be hallowed, and it gained the name of Halloween. A mystic charm has always hung about this night, and, although the ancient customs prevailing in Scotland and Ire- land have long since given away to more prac- tical amusement, there still lurks a certain charm about the occasion which is hard to dis- pel. The chief superstition of the time, vest- ing the courageous who would dare certain diffi- cult tasks, with the power of lifting the veil from the future, especially to disclose to lads and lasses their future mate. One of the pret- tiest charms is that of paring a polished red apple with a silver knife, the art being in not breaking the paring until the apple is peeled, then tossing the curling peel over the left shoul- der, without looking, until it is heard to fall upon the floor, when the thrower looks to see what initial or initials it resembles, these being supposed to be those of the future mate. An- other pretty custom is that of the ships of fate, which are made of the hollow shell of an English walnut filled with melted wax, a cotton wick inserted, or a small candle is fastened to the bot- tom by melting the end of the wax taper. It takes three such boats to determine a fate. One is plainly marked with the owner’s name, the other two contain folded slivs of paper, each with the name of an admirer inscribed. The three boats are then placed side by side ina wooden tub of water, wreathed in greens, and the candles lighted. It is a pretty sight to watch these tiny barks, especially if several fleets are placed at once, for the interest deepens if one boat veers off and attaches itself to another party. The candle of the admirer which burns longest is supposed to be the lucky swain, while if the maiden’s candles burn out first, she is still to be a maiden. If the boats lack life, a small breeze is created by gentle fanning. The occupation of the future lord is deter- mined by melting lead and pouring it through a key handle. The shape is supposed to be a symbol of the future business or profession. Many stories have been written of the maiden who, at midnight, ascended the stairs backward with a lighted candle, not looking back until her mirror was reached, and then looking over her shoulder by the aid of her candle, seeing her im- age reflected by the side of her lover. A more prosaic modern method is to blindfold the girl, and lead her three times around a low stool on which rests a pail of water wreathed in greens. She must repeata doggerel, and when the bandage is suddenly removed, she must look into the pail, where it is supposed she will behold her lover’s face beside her own. This is managed by placing a piece of unframed mirror in the bottom of the pail, which is set near a curtain behind which the admirer is concealed until the proper moment, when he looks into the pail for a second. There are many amusing games long ago given over to the children, such as filling a tis- sue paper bag with bonbons or favors, and sus- pending it from the portiére rail. In turn, each child is blindfolded, placed in front of the bag, given a cane, then told to turn three times and strike. If fortunate enough to hit the bag, the paper breaks and the bonbons or gifts come tumbling down, which causes a scramble. Another feat is to suspend a huge apple by a string, and after giving it a gentle toss backward, to attempt to bite it without touching it with the hand. A performance much enjoyed by wee folks, is the placing of three funnels on the floor, sev- eral feet apart, and balancing small saucers on the top. The skill consists in jumping over each one without upsetting the saucer. This ac- complishment insures the victor against ill luck for a year. A Halloween party for grown-ups might be given in the following manner: The invita- tions should be inscribed on yellow paper, as this is the color for Halloween, and inclosed in them should be a gold or yellow paper horseshoe ‘* For luck on the road.’’ At the entrance to the reception room cross two brooms, tied broom end down, with a handsome bow of broad yellow ribbon. The handles, tied all the way up with narrower ribbon, while if the handles are not long enough to reach the sides of the entrance they must be supplemented by ribbon and hung from each side. The host- ess stands just inside, and as each guest appears, she extends her hand, assisting the guest to step over the low-crossed brooms, saying as she does so, ‘It is for luck.’” After the guests have assembled, the brooms may be removed and placed in a corner, as an ornament. while a 554 horseshoe tied with yellow is suspended from the portiére rail, or a small hook. The deco- rations should be yellow chrysanthemums—yel- low to be used in profusion everywhere—while a multitude of lighted candles furnish the only illumination. Dancing may occupy the time until supper is announced. The dining-room may be lighted only by Jack-o’-lanterns placed around the room. There are pumpkins hol- lowed out, with eyes, nose and mouth cut out, through which the light of the candle gleams in weird uncertainty. A huge pumpkin may be placed on a centre-table as the menu is served from the buffet. From the chandelier, if round, may depend orange-colored ribbons, converging toward the centre, under which the pumpkin lies, and to the handle of which they are secured lightly. The ribbons must be long enough to allow the cover of the pumpkin to be taken off and set on table. Around the stem, depending over the sides, are bunches of white grapes, while at the base of the pumpkin there is first a wreath of green and then a wreath of polished red apples. The rest of the table may be set with smail Jack-o'-lanterns, candles and bonbons. Just after the ice, which is in the form of a small pumpkin with green leaves, the apples are served, with a small silver knife, and the guests bidden to try their luck at peeling and discover- ing the initial by throwing the peel over the shoulder. Then the lid of the center pumpkin is raised, disclosing the tinfoil lining and the hollow space filled with English walnut shells, some tied with yellow, for the lads ; some tied with white forthe lasses. ‘These are served to the guests, and are found to contain a written fortune for each one. After supper the eerie hours begin, and as the guests reassemble in the drawing-rooms they discover in one corner a tent-like booth, with a gypsy ready to tell fortunes. Another corner has a chafing-dish with lead beside it to melt, and a third has a tub wreathed in green, with the ships of fate beside it on the table, with slips of paper and pencils to inscribe the names. In the meantime each maiden is presented with a dainty hand-mirror which she keeps as a souvenir. Candlesticks are presented to the lads, who light the candles and escort the maidens to the foot of the siairs, asking them to try the charm of the hour by ascending back- ward, and at the second landing to peer into the mirror over the left shoulder. The candle- sticks are returned to the lads at the foot of the stairs. Candlesticks of Kaiser Zinn ap prized as souvenirs. A little ingenuity by rear stairs or concealment in the dark room, may help to realize fate by a reflers,_. the mirror. : hat A pretty little feat is that of filling with flour, packing it hard, then turning i on a plate, retaining its shape. On the tm j placed a pretty ring, simple or elaborate a ferred. Each guest then cuts a thin’ dis flour from the top down, taking care nog to lodge the ring. The one who does ¢ , pays the penalty by picking it out with his though, as he receives the ring, he , 4 feels compensated for a floury face. A party given at a country house brief mention. After the guests, who had | asked to appear in peasant costume, had ae bled, they were bidden to follow the lead of; piper, who piped them outdoors, through winding driveway bordered with spikes which were lighted Jack-o'-lanterns, b barn. The threshold was barred by low- brooms, which the guests stepped over, fing " OUbtis ( At This s andsom eckwea Berthas $25.0 to $75 Scarfs i $2.00 urnov' Lace, $3.75 ollars- $7.00 Collar: Lace ¢ Black L Applic Mai ales 14V BIN. elaborate decorations of yellow bunting insi the building. Two piles of unshucked corn led the party divide, and a merry race ensued, the winti party being presented with small silver-mouwt rabbits’ feet. The losing side were consi by small favors of another sort. The Hall een dance then took place and supper served at the conclusion. The menu inclvé a huge pumpkin pie, cider and viands suiti to the season, including apples and nuts, afte which Halloween sports served to pass the mainder of the evening. The Winter Fashion Special Number FF«*. Rddress VOGU | will be dated ha ; 6 NOVEMBER, 1902 OGI Price, 25 cents a copy

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Zinn are Ngenuity he dark " @ reflectigg! f filling a turning jt On the to; iborate, a a a thin dig Care not to does dish Registered J rade-Mark. / Lace eckwear At “The Linen Store.” This season we display an exceedingly andsome and choice variety of fine lace eck wear. Rerthas in real Duchesse Lace, $9.00 to $25.00; in Real Point Lace, $40.00 to $75.00. Scarfs in Real Duchesse and Point Lace $2.00 to $15.00. urnover Collars in Real Duchesse Lace, $2.50 to $4.75 ; in Real Point, $3.75 to $7.00. ollars—Real Irish Crochet Collars, $7.00 to $30.00; Batiste and Lace Collars, $2.25 to $7.00; Venetian Lace Collars, $2.75 to $6.00. Black Lace Collars in Venise, Taffeta Applique, Chiffon and Guipure. d Over, fing Mail orders have prompt attention. ames McCutcheon & Co. 14 West 23d Street, N. Y. SHOES, 982-984 Third Ave., Near 59th St. These shoes are bighly endorsed, and are recommended and prescribed by many of New York's most prominent physicians and surgeons, and give complete satisfaction in repre- sentative families throughout the country. Special Orthopedic First Walking Shoes with broad soles wide enough for the five toes to spread ; with or without ankle suppo lace and button. PREPAID TO ANY PART O shoes, or if this is inconvenient, state size and width. Room for the five toes to spread out as nature intended. Sizes 2 to 6% The First Step How long will American mothers consent to submit their children to the slavery of ill-fitting shoes ? Cultivate and develop your children’s feet by natural methods, preserve the charms and graces which are their birthright, by housing their feet in FRANK’S ORTHOPEDIC FRANK BROS. rts; tan leather and black kid, - B,C, D, and Ewitths. PRICE, $2.50. CHARGES ‘U. S. ‘When ordering by mail send one of the old RENO Late of Redfern, London LADIES’ GOWNS The latest English walking suits made of imported Zibel- ine cloths, any color, gored or plaited skirts, coat and bodice silk-lined throughout, $65.00. Also bod- ices hand embroidered all over with combined in one, and evening wear, made of Liberty chenille for street satin or crepe de chine, any shade, $35.00. We are the only house in America making these chen- ille embroidery designs. Fancy evening gowns and Opera Cloaks our specialty. Unlined walking skirts, im- ported materials, $18.00. Imported dress patterns will be sold to out-of-town custom- ers only by the yard. Samples on application. RENO” ‘ 123 Fifth Avenue, New York VOGUE BINDING CASES bunting ins d the party the winni il ver-mountt were consil The Halo 1 supper enu_ inclué iands suit d_ nuts, aft pass the Holding three months shion ber 65 Cents ach. Sent post-paid to any hddress in the United States bn receipt of price. Green loth, stamped in gold. | OGUE, 3 weer 29th sinner EW YO FULLAYTAR LADIES’ TAILORS. 412 PENN AVE. Women’s Exchange B’ld’g Pittsburg, Pa. & HEEN | (Formerly 391 Fifth Avenue) Are now located at 15 East 43d Street where they have every facility for catering to their increased trade with elegance and comfort. Original and Ex- clusive Designs in plain and fancy costumes, with lat- est importations in Eng- lish and French fabrics. BRANCHES: 703 MAIN STREET Buffalo, N. Y. ROTHSCHILD 15 WEST 30th STREET Rue de Paradis, Paris Importer and Designer of LADIES’ HATS J. ROTHSCHILD New York and Brooklyn TAILORED SUIT HATS, NECK RUFFS,CAPELINES, BOAS, ETC .%. . .% 0% Leader in Styles, Su- perior Quality and Low Prices.

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LONDON (From an occasional correspondent) A Waiting the first cool breezes of autumn the fashionable woman will find many smart wraps—indeed, the variety is greater and smarter than usual. Black taffeta is much used, as it accords with every sort of toilet and is becoming to every kind of figure. Under it the robust look their slimmest, and the angular woman gathers grace beneath its folds. I send you models of two short wraps for early autumn, which have a decided remi- niscence of the pelisse of 1830. The pretty lines of the black taffeta coat, with its full capes and lace collar, are smart, and the flounces trimming the basque part of the coat are be- coming. The waist of this little coat is defined by a black velvet ribbon, which has a series of loops and long ends starting upon the lace collar. The flounces are edged with two or more rows of velvet ribbon, and the collar is Irish lace. This would make a pretty part of an autumn gown of taffeta, and could be worn with vari- ous blouses, lace or batiste. The second pretty coat from bygone days has a capuchin hood around the shoulders. It could be made in face cloth or in siJk, and is given an edging of narrow fringe headed by a The chenille openwork mesh. fullness at the back is drawn in at the waist with a buckle, and falls in a graceful fan-shaped end. In front the little coat can be left open or drawn in by a loosely fastened belt, finished also by a buckle. Very smart capes have been brought out by our modistes made of shaded peau de soie which has much style and makes a won- derfully good effect. I send youa sketch of one made of gray shading to deep purple, which has a device of vine leaves and grapes appliquéd and embroidered upon it. All kinds of appliqués of fruit and leaves are much worn on gowns, as fruit has been all summer, on hats. Such applications are easy to arrange smoothly, and can be bold and effect- ive or fine and detailed to suit the require- ments of the work. A very smart evening gown seen recently was made princesse in cham- pagne-colored brocade, the bottom edged with a wide shaped flounce in d’ Angleterre over pliss*, where the gown joined the lace it was most effectively embroidered in cherries and leaves, th: long pointed and curled leaves of the cher- ries made in muslin veined and edged with bril- liant white crystals, the stems made in rolled tafteta and the cherries formed of pearls. The irregular embroidery of the bunches of transpar- ent leaves, sometimes on the silk and some- times on the lace, was bewitching. The upper part of the very low bodice, cutin a straight line, was mad: of fine miline shirred and trans- parent, lightly embroideréd with the cherries and leaves; the sleeves of maline with lace flounces. A smart wrap for driving on autumn days was made exactly lke a Roumanian peasant coat of rough white cloth elaborately embroid- ered in black silk soutache around and in all the seams. Like the real coats it was loose and fastened slightly on the side with frogs, but unlike them it was lined with beautiful chine satin colors on a white ground. I have just seen what seems to me the only sens ble idea that has been advanced for hats for motor driving, combining the comfort of being well protected with some sort of grace. The silk hood is detachable, and can be removed when the destination is reached, having pro- tected the hair from dust as well as the back of the neck from ache in the terrible rush of the dangerous sport that is the latest craze and fad. Irish lace and all its kin—crochet and cut work—continues to be the rage. I saw a smirt little coat of sealskin with collar and revers of green velvet overlaid with Irish lace. Cloth gowns for Autumn are also trimmed with it. A great deal of lingerie is being trimmed with crochet edgings and insertions. Smart blouses for Autumn in flannel and silk are trimmed with Bulgarian and Rou- manian embroideries, which make most ef- fective edgings to collars and fronts, yokes, etc. A good substitute for silk is Persian yarn, which comes in beautiful dull colors. The embroidery is done in cross stitch and with a good combination of colors is most effective. Gold embroidery on batiste is also charming for dress blouses. Appliqués of Turkish embroi- deries can be also used. Rough white gowns trimmed with gold embroidery, heavy lace and fur make smart gowns for visiting. One seen recently made for an Autumn house party and to be worn by a royal princess, is in white real camel’s hair, trimmed with sable and embroid- ered lightly on the skirt following the lines of fur with pale gold. The bodice has a very deep cape collar of Russian lace, embroidered quite heavily in gold, the sleeves are loose be- low the elbow, also embroidered and with a lace cuff. To wear with this gown is a short pelerine made with coach- man’s capes, trim- med with deep bands of sable. It is lined with white satin over which is chiffon lightly embroidered with gold Terry and striped velvets are to be worn this winter. A smart collar for a cloth gown is made on linen of coarse weave in cut work, | but the embroidery is done with g old thread instead of linen. Embroidery of all sorts and descriptions is the rage—all sorts of materials are appliquéd one upon another, leather on silk, linen upon velvet, chenille upon muslin. The more bizarre it is the more cachet it is supposed to have. Evening gowns show more thin ever a decided leaning towards the renaissance of the styles of 1830. London, October, 1902. SMART FASHIONS FOR LIM- ITED INCOMES Ost pleasing are the new tailor-made M effects in all cloth suits this season. No one can complain of a want of novelty in either materials or trimmings, for both are well supplied. There is besides, just enough of the feminine dressiness to insure be- comingness and still preserve a trig, practical ap- pearance. THE DOMINANT BASQUE Basques are the dominant feature, and in every possible degree are they to be met upon new bodices. Many are noted for shortness, many of them fairly long as well. Among these many models a good half-dozen have been accepted, and bid for popularity. At the same time yoke-mounted skirts are rivals, these yokes of various depths being trimmed like the skirts, witb braids or stitchings. Those having a gen- erous share of hips favor them, especially if the skirt has plaits, as the fullness may then be drawn away at a long or short distance from the waist line. There is also the separate or added basque, which offers advantages of smart- ening up last year’s bodice, whatever the mate- rial may be. There are also very pretty odd modifications of the bishop sleeve. The gen- eral | nes are more or less preserved, but one dis- covers original cuttings in the sleeve material, giving tabs or straps in odd places, adding to or taking from the old style of fullness, or chang- ing the position of it altogether; in fact, one model seemingly reverses old lines. Cuff pieces are equally odd in the present treatment. They are frequently cut out of the sleeve itself, assum- ing many odd forms. In truth, a half-dozen gowns are sure to prove the ingenuity of the tailor’s knife in most unthought directions. The same prolific designing is seen upon the flat bands used as trimmings so much, in con- trasting cloths as well as materials. This modish band is to be piped, when not trimmed with 556 soutache or fancy finishes. These pipings often represent a contrasting color, a lighter shade of the self-color or the material of band and the piping is in contrast, the smooth cloths having zibelines or angora. This idea is also carried out on tabs or motifs. In color, cranberry-red is a favorite. So are green and white. New braids in black are very glossy and figure also in these band end fringes, in fact, braids are much used upon all tailor-mades. Fancy tufted and mottled cloths, as well as shaggy ones, look their best trimmed with bands of smooth cloths with stitchings. A NOVEL AND PRETTY BLACK COSTUME A very new model of black taffeta cloth was handsomely trimmed with a heavy, flat black braid twice around the skirt. This braid had, at intervals, the application of an oval medallion laid upon it. Partly of cloth, but worked over with a black fancy braid, with a crochet-button in the centre. This skirt model was entirely in gores, with a good bottom flare, the edges of it simply hemmed with a two-inch-wide hem. This untrimmed bottom line is to be recognized on a great many walking or street suits, which are not, however, of walking-length. To this blouse bodice was a long, oval habit basque, longest in the middle and tapering to a sudden end on the hips, but well over them. In front, a wide box plait of the same cloth fell from the neck downward as a stole and ended quite be- low the knees. Both the basque and this front stole were trimmed with braid and cloth appli- cations, as were the very wide cioak-like sleeves, which swept down upon the skirt at the sides. The basque,the stole, and the sleeves, gave the most unique effect to this suit imagina- ble, and presented the form of a sep- arate outer garment, instead of being part of one suit. That it would be all that would be required for most of our winter days, goes without saying, as the cloth was of a warm kind and quite heavy. The objec- tion to such a model is, that, upon entering a house or shopping in overheated shops, it would be most uncomfortable—still its economy is a temptation, MANIPULATION OF SKIRT PLAITINGS Where skirts are plaited from the waist down, if the plaits are not very wide, they are well stitched down, but many of the wider ones are thoroughly well pressed, but remain freetheir length. Skirts in many mod- els preserve the front tablier line in differ- ent widths. _ Plaits then usually finish the sides, or break into the middle of the front and are stitched part way. Strap bands or handsome braids also enter into the finish at the tablier sides, and from them start the two or three- ringed rows which en- circle the skirt. When the material is of a light, pliable kind, ring tucks are often run, and a pass- ementerie heading hides the stitches and helps toward trimming. GLACE SILK GOWNS Changeable glacé silks, in medium blues, greens, reds, browns,and grays, are put forward to become popular. There is often a black, re- flecting shade among these silks that suggests winter and street wear. The skirt trimming is often grouped into rings of inch-wide tucks or those half again as wide, with addition some- times of black passementerie application. The bodice and sleeves show tuckings to match with the fronts open and showing plastron lawns and laces, or heavy yellow laces. Where fancy loons are used to trim them, as they fregy are, then they enter into the bodice decorai.. most effectively, lighting it up at once into afe greater dressiness. Other, partly lace and sik trimmings, following out pretty designs, ang which leave the edges in irregular form line, quite inexpensive, are greatly in Vogue All-lace designs fashioned for gown trimminy, take on charming effects which repeat them. selves with fragile lace links between, baph visible at times. These are to be used with par. ticular grace and skill, and in many original ways this season, and no doubt, meet with the favor accorded to them heretofore. Hea black laces, especially woolen laces, in blak and dyed to match different cloths, are to) counted upon among the trimming novelti« Irish lace, dyed black, is also used effectively upon black cloths and worn on very dresgy . casions. BELTS OF BEAUTY Belts were never more important as gov, accessories than at this writing. Everything points to their great vogue. Shop cases are fi of beauties in every conceiveable style ; ranging from very high to moderate prices. Elastic belts have come into greater prominence becaug they have been most ingeniously contrived, They vary from an inch wide, increasing grady. ally to a five-inch width, and are of all sik weavings in white and in colors, the former be. ing much in demand. Silk and velvet belts x. cupy a distinct place, and appear in a great vari ety of models trimmed with jet or steel. They have all sorts of additions in the way of tal, bows, long ends, etc. RARELY BEAUTIFUL SEPARATE BODICES There is no truth in the oft-repeated rume that separate bodices are to be modishly cop. demned this season. In reality the latest thing in that line brought over from Rue de la Pair, where these waists bring most extravagant prices, only show that they even exceed all previo records in beauty and elegance, superlative x were the beauties worn this summer. Mucho this is owing to the lavish use of real laces whic appear everywhere. Then there is the finest ¢ hand-work which has its value under exper classification. Long, oval medallions of th finest guipure and Cluny are costly trimming But one may do much with the lovely and fix imitation laces, and find often the very same & signs as in the real ones reproduced. To follox one of the smartest models—across the waist z bust line and across the back, these long, ov lace bits are inset into a finely tucked batist mull or silk, lengthwise, transparently, ¢ course. Then come motifs of lace forming: shoulder trimming as well as transparent chem- sette and neckband. A waist of this kind are only possible in a economic sense—when a woman has the ability to make them herself—understands needlework sufficiently well to undertake it—otherwise it s not advised, as it would lead into useless «- penditures. With this understood, it is nece+ sary to continue describing the sleeves, which also have a large part of lace insetting. The tops may or may not have lace at all. Many have only the tucking. It is at the bottom that the lace is seen forming a dressy under- sleeve. Motifs are let in and waistbands of lace give the finish. As these waists are modishly worn under dressy, long or short coats, which all have wide sleeves, the undersleeve becomes conspicuous as well as a necessity. The Wisse Fashions Special Number VOGUE will be dated November 1902 Price, 25 cents a copy 6 ke he Viar This model ust effect, sup gures, The spring, be corset awa bY pressure o1 ontour, rende Beary, §=Pric We also nal uces the abdor cing on the s Pe SEND POR ¢ B. VIA

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frequen decoration e into afe ce and sik signs, and form and in Vogue trimmings Peat them. en, barely 1 with par. ny Original >t with the Heary, ) in black , are to be Novelties, effectively dressy o.

MME. E. MORRISON IMPORTER

|_7 WEST 32nd STREET, NEW YORK

Near Fifth Avenue.

Is now prepared to execute orders for

ROBES, MANTEAUX, CORSETS, a : WRAPS, pele . WAISTS, Etc. ang os An Advanced Style Street Shoe, made in Patent Leather ts) silk * ° a Also same in Gun Metal Kid former be. et belts x. great vari F k B of imported models and original creations, rel. They ran ros. one of which is illustrated herewith. ray of tabs,

it as gown Everything ses are fuji 5 Fanging

and is showing a magnificent collection . Smart Shoes for the Smart Set ; ope Trousseaux a Specialty. tino @ SIXTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 20th AND 21st STS. dishly con. atest thing de la Paix, New York Zant prices, il “a Established Over 30 Years I7R de | verlative x ue de ila meas We will be pleased to mail you our style cards on request | Banque aces which 1 finest of der exper ns of th trimmings ly and fine y same de- To follow he waist z long, ovd modishls | A \ 37, useless ¢x- t is neces es, which ng. The ‘

Vogue readers residing at a distance may make appointments for sittings by mail

| € 1 SAY its, which a WN = ste tsar seanieste on 7 2 e becomes P Wy : | G = | Mme. India Sutherland The “New Park Hebit” 10 Is NOW EXHIBITING HER COLLECTION OF (Registered) MADE ONLY of . PARIS GOWNS AND WRAPS E

Y he Viau Spring Bust Corset AMONG WHICH ARE MANY UNUS- This model while giving the much desired low UALLY HANDSOME AND ATTRAC- R U P E R T lust effect, supplies the deficiency of bust in slender TIVE MODELS FROM THE MOST gures ~ The spring, by which this is accomplished, holds CELEBRATED FRENCH DESIGNERS / A e R y oF E Y + pee away from the body, thereby relieving WHICH WILL BE SHOWN TO HER V ny pressure on the bust, and givi full ded zm, rendering all nodding sheclately unnce- PATRONS, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S Py: Price, $8. d ds. We also nake mpetn for stout women which re- TAI LOR dces the abdomen,comes well down overthe stomach, oe “ngon the side, Price, $12.00 and upwards. 2 ; 2 Perfect Fitting by Post SEND FOR CIRCULAR SHOWING OTHER STYLES 14 West 45th Street, New York . o7 conser Fift venue 4 French Corset Maker Near Fifth Avenue D. VIAU 67 West 234 Street, N. Y. Bet. 27th and 28th Sts.

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PARIS (From our own Correspondent) PREDICTIONS FLATTERING TO AMERICAN TASTES —S8KIRTS-——ROUGH, GRAY WOOL ORNAMENT- ED WITH CRETON EMBROIDERY—THE TUNIC COAT—SCALES EFFECT OF BLACK AND WHITE ZIBELINE—TARNISHED GOLD AND SILVER BULLION FASHIONABLE AUTOMOBILE STYLES——-THE CAPE , Here has been much excited talk in the ia Paris papers and at the couturieres, and especially at those houses which do a big business in models for the foreign trade, about the proposed ‘‘invasion of American dressmaking.’’ Indignant reproaches levelled at the American dressmakers for thinking of thus turning traitor to the tastful hand that has guid- ed them so long, and emphatic assertions of the inevitable failure of any such enterprises, can all be set down to very fear of the commercial riv- alry they pretend to disdain. The Parisienne mondaine, unconcerned in the matter as a mer- cantile question, but deeply interested in its zs- thetic results, only feels that taste is not a ques- tion of race, but one of experience and culture. If she finds it chez les Anglais or chez les Ame- ricains she will adopt it as quickly as when she finds chez elle, and the couturieres may protest as they please. It was the mondaine who caused the adoption of the English tailor gown, since that time become the subject of certain racial adaptations. No Parisian bootmaker can now turn out anything that the Parisienne finds half so smart as an American shoe. And this autumn she has literally forced upon her coutu- rieres the making of the short-skirted walking gown, which is essentially and wholly American. I humbly predict that another generation of Pa- risiennes will count with pride her toilettes Ame- ricains. The purpose of my letter will not al- low me to go into the reason. Suffice it that the American short walking gown has achieved a triumphant invasion. It is true, a very smart tailor told me the other morning when I went to order one of his new tunic coats, that he was not making any short skirts. This but points my moral, the designer’s will and the way of the fashionable herself. We go to Francis for the tunic coat, and to Nicaud or Doucet or Pa quin for a short-skirted walking gown a la Americain, The Parisian version of this gown is very chic thisautumn. Sometimes its skirt is made in two or three shaped flounces which, though not too full in front, flutes at the back and flares out and back above the heels with infinite co- quetry. The chic thing is to have the silken inside plaitings and petticoat exactly as long as the outside, so that at every swish, tura, flow of outer hem a gleam is gotten of soft color or snowy white embroidery or lace. The boots, American, but not **common sense,’’ are of elaborate design, with high colonial heels often covered with colored leather of a low tone, myrtle-green or dark-red, or tobacco-brown, and openwork, embroidered or lace inset stock- ings are worn. Another short skirt that is smart is one with box plaits set on, those at the back starting at the waist line, those on the side from the hip, the two front ones from the knees. Each plait is headed with a motif of embroidery, of appliqué work or of perforation. A long, half-fitted coat is the smartest thing with this skirt. Itis a half-fitted sacque reach- ing a third of the length of the skirt, which has two shaped flounces completing the two-thirds. Fancy this in heavy, glossy, drab-brown zibeline, each flounce turned up with velvet of the same shade, its edge cut in irregular undulations in cumulous forms that suggest sea waves, the de- sign traced with embroidered stitches in sea- green. On the sacque a deep border of velvet covered with stitchings finish the bottom as well as the front, mounted in irregular forms at the side-back seams and spread about the shoulders in the most becoming of lines. They gave, in fact, a slender effect that without them the sacque might not have had. The sleeve of course hung from the elbow in kimona style, its velvet appliqué trimming reaching high up the back. A second short-skirted gown, this one with a box-plaited skirt, has a plaited and pouched bodice, with yoke, belt and wristbands of gay Breton embroidery on gray cloth, the material of the gown being a mixed rough gray wool. Narrow shoulder straps tipped with gray wool fringe formed a heading to an odd and new cape of the material. This was made in two sections, one for each shoulder, and formed a covering simply for the arms to the elbows. They were a bit longer at the back than in the front, and pointed both back and front, a piece of gay silk liningthem. These were ad- justable, hooking on under the shoulder strap from bust line to shoulder blade. The tunic coat, of which I have spoken, is bound to be one of the most successful garments we have worn for a long time. It is the apoth- eosis of slimness, and the hight of extrava- gance as regards the length of theskirt with which it is worn. Skirt and coat are of the same material and may be one of the many smart wools, of cloth, or of light weight velvet, a low-toned Scotch plaid effect, perhaps, whose colors are dimmed with a scattering of silver- gray hairs. The coat reaches quite to the ankle like a tunic, and further deserves its name be- cause of the easy loose suppleness with which it clings to the figure. This is attained by making the skirts of the coat without a lining, and by closing it with hooks and eyes quite to its hem. Down the middle, or perhaps down each side of the back, and also down each side of the front there is a group of flat plaits which keep their form well below the waist, but are not stitched visibly. At the waist line a shaped belt of ma- terial is puton with the correct slope. The front of the garment, trimmed with fancy but- tons or with passementerie ornaments, which are longer and more elaborate than ever, may be worn closed or turned open to show an em- broidered silk facing. Its sleeve cannot be too fanciful. Its gown skirt, trailing to an exag- gerated degree with an excessive undulation of hem, may have two narrow-shaped flounces be- low the coat hem. Accompanying this there is the most dainty of blouses. The short-skirted walking gowns, as well as these long tunic coats, will be smartly com- pleted with a flat broad stole of fur, very long, lined with another fur, and worn carelessly about the arms. Of steel gray squirrel fur it is even more smart than last season. and makes the most fashionable accessories possible. It is lined with white squirrel flecked with tiny black tails and a broad band of white may surround its ends. Odd, too, isa stole of gray squirrel— petit gris, they call it here—the ends of which knots about waist high, each then hanging in two ends bordered with pure white, lined with white flecked with black, and finished with brown bear tails. I ordered one of these at Ninaud’s for $50, more than its intrinsic worth, but fancy the chic of it? For splendid afternoon gowns nothing will look handsomer than a black or white pressed zibeline, which has a perfect semblance to cara- cule fur. Perfect in line was one in black with 558 a corselet effect, built of folds of Nile green panne, the contour of which upon the bodice and down upon the hips gave a wonderful figure. The bodice was charming, of Irish lace and an embroidered collar of white leather. A pale amber-colored cloth gown was mys- terious and weird, a little sensational in its beauty. Much of the bodice, its hip yoke and its skirt front was perforated in rows of small semi-circular slashes, each cutting leaving a hemispherical flap which fluttered slightly at each movement. In fact in walking a gentle undulating movement of these tabs descended the whole perforated panel in unison with the movement of the limbs, the effect as of the sinuous scales of a fish intensified by the glimpses shown of a changeable green and gold silk lining. White Chantilly lace trimmed the bodice, some of the designs of which lace were picked out with green silk embroidery. A vivid touch of green on the bodice was effective in the shape of waistcoat pieces trimmed with passementerie ornaments dripping long strings of silken balls. The perforated cloths for gowns or for great loose sweeping evening cloaks are of quite a new genre and wonderfully beautiful. The design is immensely large. Each great blossom about the hem is composed of dozens of small pieces of cloth, all stitched to a foundation of net, mous- seline, or of changeable silk, as one pleases, Worth has used this for a couple of evening cloaks, one in white cloth, the perforated design stitched upon white net. This is hung over white satin and lined throughout with ermine.. It is kimona-shaped save for its more than Japanese sweep of hem, and its wide sleeve has a turned-back ermine cuff that hangs in a long Javanese sleeve from each wrist, two fur stoles, one might almost call them. It is wonderfully picturesque. Gold and silver bullion, is not so gorgeous as last season, because it is considered more chic to wear it tarnished. Some is quite black, but there are varying degrees of tarnish, according to the color scheme selected Mixed old gold and old silver lace is very handsome on white panne as a trimming to a costume of black zibeline. For evening, white illusion, embroidered in sil- ver bullion in a design of edelweis, is exquisitely pretty, frostily conceived with frothy white tulle, and pure milk white pearls. A design that was originated in jets, and which was re- peated with equal success in pearl, is that of geometrical bands that twine in a spiral about a gown of tulle, long fringes of jets, or of seed pearls, as the case might be, falling from the embroidery its whole length up the gown. This sort of thing seems to take the place of spangles. Jets, large, handsomely cut ones in beads and bugles, are very much liked, and on hats as well as on gowns, As for embroideries, you can hardly go astray whatever sort of em; _ youchoose. From old-fashioned tap om cross-stitch, Kensington, to elaborate eis} “ century perfection of sentimental and di. wa mp tinted detail, from gay peasant emu h f floral or geometrical, even American ty nal it embroidery in wools, to the most refing ey ducts of Japanese and Chinese Civilization. ik. only The flannel shirt waist is a fit object fogs ing th work these days. You can hardly occupy ed the idle time better than working it in ajj pat x the co colored worsteds, including in the design ap ; own qué bit of bright cloth. A white wool wie MMM es. the : instance, is charmingly embroidered by ag flutes at | know of, in Nile green, navy blue, and h shoulde worsted, the straight lines of chain stitch i me mate! three colors outlining four inch-bands and linen material, at each end the stitches twining oat of gral a round motif of appliqué cardinal cloth, ay wool | four bands run down from the choker, gl choulder | which the round motif seems to fix them heavily it down the front, one down each sleeve ® tips the s elbow, one down the back quite to the gillithe ends belt. This same Parisienne wears a short-ciy pe is line walking gown, which also boasts her own }; jg worn. iwork. Its skirt of rough mixed gray and with black wool is seemingly turned up into a twelve green P: hem, finished with a broad, rich, heavy qlllmbe tunic Co broidery in a floral design. This is done ip trimmed Angora wool, which roughs up, when callikwhite and pleted, to take the place heavily and solidy A hi the woolly surface of the material. Mor of embr this is used on a broad, double-breasted waig, touches. of plain gray cloth, which completes a ir felt hat ; cape of the dress material. e visiting Nothing will be more correct for the aut ike white bile during the hunting and shooting sagillbred in hea which in France lasts till the New Year, century suits, skirt and sacque-coat, of leather, There come in very handsome shades of gray, iy assing ove red or yellow tan, brown, and they are ballMbidery and somely lined with heavy satin, white, orp een mous: ing the leather. The leather cap with vi y built. not unbecoming, and is thoroughly practalllred with s when, upon the journey, the hood of thea ed with drawn up, fastened to it, and strapped unde@ly exquisite chin. The automobile rug, would you | the latest, isa tiger skin made up with hedgimpis, 1 Octob paws and tail, and, preferably, one that h personal history. Happy the mondaine ROSE can say she has shot her own in the jungk Rose pit India. carriec An automobile coat of rough, hairy dak miles wool, almost an astrakhan cloth, is made ing way. kimona back, double-breasted front, and d of honc ridesmaids ls every 0 gnes, = g0 painted es upon a es of rose ers of h wore whit sleeve that may be strapped at the wrist i pouch, Its shoulder cape is made into two tions, deep and cape-like over each arm, ani up with square corners to form back and fn very narrow collar. Red passementerie ments cause the two side portions to almost at the middle of the back and front. The portions only of this cape are hemmed with wide and one narrow band of black velvet, es and w two other bands trim its hem. The fastea? and be are of red passementeries, and very elaborat. Ms were r knee-long plaited cloak with a plaited aglie and ruck sleeve is lovely in champagne-colored zibeigMounce as | trimmed down each side of the front, of pink broad insertion of Venetian lace over vas of rose satin. Its narrow turned down collar of gam drop skirt velvet is hemmed with white satin striped WMMfichus to n gold, and two short, rounded ends of 1M, and were falling from the front to the bust line, sugges were ruc cravat. The white satin lining of the ag sleves u: sleeve is revealed by a slashing on the front (MMM point, w arm, champagne-colored silk passementeriehigmented wit ing the opening. This does not reveal a@@@Mof a moss sleeve, but an under cloak-sleeve of green Om pink mov in a bishop shape, cuffed with Venetian lace. ost fascinat cloak is not only handsome, but very watt. Mimaids ever derfully p chiffon tu: and these Another shape suitable for theatre wet trailing circular of pale amber cloth, it shooving up much shorter, so that the fu falls there in plaits that reveal its brocade yé ing less t taffeta lining. The fronts fall long agi @™pdice in me: points. Hem and fronts are trimmed wit they. Th insertion of écru filet lace laid over gold ¢ tely char: of distinc! A white ‘ of pink 0 te aigrette As this mounts the fronts it continues up long rever and turned down collar of 0 black panne. A deep cape collar of filet laid over gold, and embroidered in gold jets, is bordered with folds of black panne. A pin All coats, big or little, verge on The brid form in their fullness of sleeve and looses 4e chine i breadth. And yet a simple, unsophistggpell border ; cape is not to be seen. If long, it bas *agmpte bride r like sleeves attached ; if it be short, it is UMM by the br two, to show the lines of the back, o 9 ‘stened | folded back in front and given a great #

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Of embe: tap rate eiph | and del t emb Dies rican to St refined Vilizations object for dly occupy In all sory design an Wool waig, red by a ei ie, and in stitch jp 1-bandg of | twining a al cloth, , choker, , ) fix them, Sleeve to fe to the wa a shorteskig her own k 1 gray and > a twelve, sh, heavy q is done ing P, when q y and solidly rial. Mor easted waist npletes a ‘or the aut hooting sx rew Year, leather, of gray, by they are hy hite, or m ap with vi ghly practi id of the ca ipped under ould you with hea one that hy mondaine | the jung hairy dark 1, is made ront, and he wrist it le into two +h arm, and ack and fm menterie a to almosta nt. The nmed with ick velvet, The fasten ry elaborate, | plaited a lored ibe e front, wit ce over collar of ga rin striped © ends of vd line, suged - of the a he front of ementerieh reveal a of green ve etian lace. very wart. eatre wea cloth, its at the fu brocade yé long agi mmed with yer gold & inues up lar of tual ar of filet gold beads k ne. : Lays id loosencs unsophisid , it has ort, it is 7 back, or 4 | great © s waistcoat, brave with frogs and frivol- ch tassels. Many autumn gowns are with some such arrangement, which is a wrap, and yet seems a part of the and with a wide fur stole proves quite enough for the between season—for be- season it is, fashionably speaking, how- igid the days really become. has only to glance at the sketches ac- nying this letter to perceive how widely sat are the silhouettes possible to a mon- jn the course of one day. Her morning ng gown is of rough mixed wool in gray n, the skirt very flat in front, springing utes at the back. The half capes, one h shoulder, reveal a box-plaited back of ame material, low cut, to show the shirt and linen collar. In front there is seen a cat of gray cloth, with green velvet lapels y wool passementerie ornaments. The shoulder straps and the skirt are embroi- heavily in gray angora wool. A wool tips the shoulder straps and finish at the he ends of a belt of mixed wool material. pe is lined with green, and a black satin ig worn, The turban is in green felt, with black satin in folds and trimmed with i green Paradise feathers. «tunic coat for afternoon is in pearl-gray trimmed with motifs of cardinal velvet white and black silk passementerie orna- A high, red cloth waistcoat, with of embroidered white taffeta, are very touches. Black plumes on a red silk felt hat are picturesquely arranged. ¢ visiting toilette is in white pressed zibe- Hike white caracule fur. It is richly em- red in heavy silks and chenilles in eight- century design, the color largely pale There are effective straps of black vel- assing over the zibeline collar, under its nidery and ,over a loose plaited blouse of een mousseline, of which the sleeves are ly built. A black velvet stole, lined and ed with sable, and a large black satin hat, ed with an enormous white plume, are y exquisite details. Aube de Siécle. is, 1 October, 1902. ROSE PINK WEDDING Rose pink wedding was a pretty idea carried out recently, not one hundred miles from this city, and in the most ing way. There were six bridesmaids and d of honor. By a strange coincidence, bridesmaids were nearly all of one hight, Is every one. -and either blondes or light gnes, golden-hued or cendrée. They painted mousseline gowns in pink rose es upon a white ground and carried long es of roses tied with many long loops and ers of half-inch pink louisine ribbons. wore white tulle hats with triple wreaths es and were broad of brim and low of pb and bewitchingly becoming. These s were made with a_ single shaped e and ruched on the bottom as well as on ounce as heading, with the most delicate of pink mousseline. The under silk as of rose pink also with a white mous- drop skirt. The bodices were trimmed fichus to match, and ruched to match the , and were collarless. | Very long drapery Bs were ruched on the edge, with full lace sleeves underneath. The same lace, a h point, was used for the high chemisettes, ented with a river-pearl brooch in the of a moss rose-bud, the gift of the bride. pink mousseline sashes completed quite ost fascinating sextette of wedding toilettes maids ever wore. ‘The maid of honor was derfully pretty brunette dressed in a pink chiffon tucked from collar band to foot of and these tucks starting at the bottom at ling less than two inches, reached the top dice in mere hair lines, so extremely fine they. This marks one of the latest ideas. itely charming in every line—they wore of distinction about it that was captivat- A white tulle toque was worn with a F of pink ostrich feathers on the left and te aigrette caught with a rosette of pink m. A pink rose shower bouquet was car- The bride’s gown was of pearl white de chine inset with real Alencon, her real ell border matching, and a shower bouquet te bride roses was carried. The jewels by the bride were a collier of six rows of fastened with a barette of beautiful work- manship, set with diamonds in three sizes, after an antique design. A diamond tiara of great beauty and a superb diamond brooch, with three pear-shape pearl pendants swinging by dia- mond chain, this brooch also being an antique copy of a family heirloom. CARRIAGE Se is no one thing which so marksa gentleman as proper carriage. The correct poise of the head and body, to- gether with a seeming forgetfulness of the arms and legs, marks a gentleman from all others who surround him and at once commands at tention and respect. As the race horse is told by his gait, so the gentleman by his walk. The heroine in Julian MHawthorne’s Bressant, says of a gentleman: ‘‘ He was dresseed like one ; not bandboxy, but nicely and easily, and he stands and moves well.”’ We are assured that majesty and high breed- ing are not shown by the face alone, but the carriage and attitude of the whole body is brought into consideration as by King Lear’s ‘** Aye, every inch a man.”” A commanding figure is not essential for a Chesterfieldian and high-bred carriage, as is proven to us by Napoleon’s majestic and impos- ing bearing, despite his short, stout figure, but rather an air of self-respect and control of all muscles, Among the most perfect forms of exercise is riding horseback, calling as it does all the mus- cles of the body into play. And yet Punch the connoisseur of morals and manners, draws a vivid similarity between the dismounted dragoon and the swan on the turn-pike road. Let us not, therefore, forget to walk after taking exer cise on a horse’s back. It would be quire impossible to give this sub- ject too much consideration at any or all times, not forgetting that the head carries the body — not the body the head, as is often, in appear- ance, the case. One of the greatest difficulties to overcome is the perpetual temptation to lower the eyes While walking about town the eye should be fixed on a point, perhaps two hundred feet ahead, and raised fifteen from the level of the walk. This gives one at a distance ample op portunity to recognize, or pass without recogni- tion, friends and acquaintances, without embar- rassment to them. We all know how disconcerting it is, when | in public, to have our whereabouts so suddenly discovered that an explosion of delight is caused, and others inconvenienced by our being brought to a standstill in a crowded thoroughfare. A direct so-called snub or cut is sufficient proof of poor breeding, while an apparent in- | ability to see those whom we do not wish to | All can be naturally | recognize is pardonable accomplished by keeping the eyes as above sug: gested It is not in the least necessary to lower the eyes at street crossings or descending stairs. One quick glance will assure you of what lies before you, and the mind should carry you over the difficulty, providing one is presented. Emerson expressed himself: ‘‘ Give me a thought, and my hands and legs and voice and face will go right. And we are awkward for want of thought. The inspiration is scanty, and does not arrive at the extremities.’’ Do we not invariably invest high thinkers with a noble bearing? Were not the Greeks the best thinkers and do they not stand unsurpassed in the gracefulness of their motions ? Affectations of carriage should be strenuously shunned by all who would own elegance of poise and motion. One should not attempt to obtain in manner anything that especially suggests dignity, for by this means you are likely to run into formality and self-importance ; rather avoid whatever is undignified and common, There is no objection to the head being cast slightly to one side, preferably to the left ; this, however, must be very slight, and under no consideration at such an angle as to attract at- tention to this point in particular. The chest should be held up and the shoulders carelessly thrown back. The position of the chest is emphasized by drawing in the stomach and throwing back the hips. Many cases of round shoulders have become almost invisible by drawing the stomach and hips well back. It is the carriage of the neck and head, rather than round shoulders, howevers, that gives a stooped appearance. There seems to be a ten- 5 dency among all haberdashers to build for us collars and shirts which push the head forward, and not only make us feel uncomfortable, but give a distressing appearance. The shirt band should never be of such hight or the collar so shaped as to in the least press against the back of the neck. One must use much presence of mind and give his carriage careful attention when entering any large company of seated people. Many eyes are observing, and a carefully studied, gentlemanly entrance will not fail to do one credit. Avoid that ugly gait which allows the whole body to rise and fall with each step, making all members of the body seem to do the | work which should be done by the legs, The Winter Fashions Special Number VOGUE will be dated 6 November, 1902 Price, 25 cents a copy Fitch’s Silver and Blue Book! IS ACATALOGUE OF THE GOODS HE, FITCH, HAS TO SELL. But it is more than a Catalogue. Educator and an instructor as well. If you Embroider ; If you Knit or Crochet ; If you make Lace* You Need This Book. It’s a Three Year Old Now,and it is Growing Sturdierand making MoreFriends Each Year. The Cost of Mailing is Five Cents. EDWIN A. FITCH 2 WEST FOURTEENTH STREET NEW YORK Will send you a Copy, if you pay the postage- It is an Imperial Hair , WOMAN'S FACE Ow necessary it is for woman to look H her best, especially in the present age, when she need never grow old. As the face is exposed more than any other part to the wind and dust, it requires special care, and the complexion should be treated two or three times a week in a scientific and sensi- ble method with thoroughly pure preparations. This is the method employed by the Windsor Boudoir, the great success of which is the evi- dence of ics merit, and every cream, lotion, skin food, and whatever else is used, are all manu- factured at the Boudoir, and are absolutely pure and hygienic in all respects. The face should.never be bathed in real hot water, and facial brushes, steaming, etc., are precisely the methods we oppose, on the ground that the after effects are too severe and trying. There is no reason why a woman, even if plain, should not appear at least attractive when it requires only a half-hour with one of our wonderful facial treatments to positiyely’rejuv- enate her features. é We especially desire every woman in search of health and beauty to adopt this course, for after many bitter disappointments, she will, per- chance, lend a willing ear to a few hygienic hints on the correct care of her skin and com- plexion ; hints that if carried out will effect a complete transformation of all undesirable con- ditions for each individual case. Our methods and the preparations employed will, beyond question, stand any test of compar- ison to which they may be put. Pamphlets sent on application when a two- | cent stamp is enclosed. | The Windsor Boudoir 7 East 46th Street New York 59 ‘Regenerator The Standard Hair Coloring For Gray or Bleached Hair. Application Parlors and Salesroom 11 West 30th Street Near Fifth Ave., New York (Formerly 22 W. 23dSt.) No Branches This isthe only es- tablishment in the world where hair col- Oring is made a specialty and the in- jurious effects of ob- jectionable dyes are rectified. Any shade from Black to the lightest Ash Blond produced. Colors are durable and natural; its ap- plication cannot be detected, IS ABSOLUTELY HARMLESS, leaves the hair soft and glossy and is unaffected by baths or shampooing. We color and return, free of charge, a sample of your hair. Interviews or correspondence strictly confidential. | No | Branch Stores. Fall Announcement My establishment has been com- pletely renovated and patrons will find that considered in every particular. their comfort has been Human Hair Goods of my manufacture have always been of the highest excellence, but I offer over former years, since my stock even superior advantages has never been so large and varied Nowhere else is there such a rich assortment. os Hair Ornaments A special importation of selected hair ornaments has just been added to my notable collection. You are cordially invited to call and ex- amine my stock. 033 Broadway 21—22 Streets

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The “Chatfeld”’ Squirrel Set Made of Siberian Skins Price $725.00. The Three Pieces /@ / a MILLINERY THE ““NETHERSOLE”’ TOQUE THE ‘“‘LANGTRY’’ SAILOR Price $20.00 Price $20.00 Made of Imported Beaver. Trimmed Made of Moire Silk, Trimmed with with smart velvet bow at side. Can be velvet ribbon. Can be bad in any had in any color or combination. color or combination. Maison Nouvelle 308-310 Wabash Avenue, - Chicago, IIl. Two stores located under Auditorium Hotel IMPORTERS AND DESIGNERS OF High-Class Millinery, Furs, French Novelty Jewelry The Largest and Finest Assortment in the West CHICAGO AGENCY FOR WE CARRY EXCLUSIVE STYLES IN J. H. CONNELLY, 1155 BROADWAY, NEW YORK PHIPPS & ATCHISON’S DESIGNER OF THE WORLD-FAMED CONNELLY TURBAN WOMEN’S TAILORED AND OUTING HATS Long Distance ’Phone Harrison 276 Catalogues Now Ready Prices Correct ner THE GILLISS PRESS,