Vogue 1899-08-03: Vol 14 Iss 5

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wus tL) ico " s 3 auever at” PRICE TEN CENTS rour Dottars a veaRAUG 3 1899 VOL. XIV., NO. §. (WHOLE NUMBER 347.) PUBLICATION OFFICE, 3 WEST 29TH STREET, NEW YORK. COPYRIGHT, 1899, BY THE FASHION COMPANY. TRADE MARK REGISTERED tv ay <) * Ks 4 aR * 4 < se en — "8 “8 “pal yd Veg iit ce hn ee ty

WITH THE GULLS

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x €4¢¢2080e VOGUB #4444 ay ‘ eee OK eeerececsseseses BUSINESS NOTICES ° Vogue is issued weekly on Thursdays. Head office, 3 West 29th Street, New York, Cable Address: ** Vogue, New York.” London: Arthur Ackerman, 191 Regent Street. Paris: Em, Terquem, 19 Rue Scribe, Sabscription for the United States, Canada and Mexico, Four dollars a year in advance, postage free. For foreign countries in the postal union, five dollars year, postage free. Remit by check, draft or postal vf €xpress money order, Other remittances at send- er’s risk. Single copies ten cents, Manuscripts must be accompanied with postage for thei. .etura if found unavailable. Vogue INDEX no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts except to accord them courteous attention and ordinary care. Wrapper Dates.— The date printed on the wrapper of each copy denotes the time when the subscription expires, Change of address.—‘fhe address of subscribers will be changed as often as desired. In orderinga change of address both the old and the new address must be given. Two weeks’ notice to be given. Complaints —Subscribers who fail to recerve a single copy of Vogue should immediately notify the Head Of- fice. Readers who are unable to purchase Vogue at any news-stand or on any vratlroad train or steamboat will confer a favor by promptly reporting the fact. Entered at N. Y. City P. O. as 2d Class Matter class newsdealer throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, Alaska and Japan. Sold also in the chief cities of Great Britain, Continental Europe, India, South America and Australia. Principal dealers outside New York City and Brooklyn are Albany, A. H. Clapp, 32 Maiden Lane, Atlanta, Kimball House News Stand. Baltimore, W. H. Cullomore, Park Ave. Boston, Damrell & Upham, 283 Washington St. Buffalo, R. F. Sherman & Co., 586 Main St. Charleston, B, Doscher, 242 Meeting St. Chicago, MacDonald & Co., 55 Washington St. Cincinnati, J. R. Hawley, 410 Vine St. Cleveiand, The Helman-Taylor Co. Columbus, L. C. Collins, 155 High St. Denver, Smith & Higby, 929 16th St. Detroit, C. J. Holton, 87 Woodward Ave. Galveston, N.S. Sabell. Hartford, Smith & McDonough. Indianapolis, J. G. Deshler, Jacksonville, Jas. Douglas. Kansas City, B. S. Hungerford, 1031 Broadway. Knoxville, Tenn., M. Howard. Los Angeies, Whedon & Little Co, Mobile, N. Felis & Co. Memphis, R. M. Mansford. Milwaukee, T.S. Gray, 104 Wisconsin St. Minneapolis, Parcher & Sacer, 6 Third St., S. Nashville, G. W. Hutchinson, Natchez, James A. Grillo. Newark, P. F. Mulligan, 927 Broad St. New Haven, T. H. Pease & Sons. New Orleans, D. H. Holmes, 819 Canal St. Newport, W. P. Clark. Norfolk, The Nusbaum Co,, 128 Main St. Omaha, C. Cohen, 1518 Farnam St. Philadelphia,T. Cullen, 107 So, Broad, cor. Chestnut. Pittsburg, R.S. Davis & Co., 96 5th Ave. Portland, J. F. Handley & Co. Portland, Ore., B. B. Rich, Providence, T. J. Hayden, 92 Weybosset St. Richmond, N. Leonard, 908 Main St. Rochester, A. Jackson. Rutiand, G. E, Chalmers. Sacramento, K. F. Megerle. Salt Lake City, A. R. Derge & Co., San Francisco, A. M. Robertson, 126 Post St. Saratoga, Congress Hall Book Store. Seattle, Geo. F. Ward, 209 Columbia St. Springfield, Mz ssasoit News Room. St. Albans, A. 2. Lane. St. Louis, Phil, Roeder, 307 N. 4th St. St. Paul, J. E. Hall, 613 Nicollet Ave. Toledo, J, Huutley, Troy, B. G. Wilson, 464 Broadway. Vicksburg, R. G, Partee. Waco, Texas, A. J, Herz & Bro. 106 So. 4th St. Washington, Woodward & Lothrop, 11th and F Sts, Worcester, F. A. Easton. Vii is regularly on sale by every first- Readers not finding Vogue on sale at any place, however remote from New York, will please communicate with the Head Office, 3 West 29th Street, and a supply will be pro- vided forthwith. = 3 AUGUST, 1899 *¢ All they need, but not more than they need to supply their regular customers,’ is the basis of newsdealers’ orders for Vogue. Persons who expect to get Vogue regularly from a newsdealer should order in advance. Orders for extra copies of a current number very often cannot be filled by the publisher, much to the disappointment of all concerned. Often, alse, the edition of Vogue is completely ex- bausted within three days after publication, \A definite order to a newsdealer or a sub- scription are the only certain ways of getting Vogue without fail. Society > F ‘ . ii, iii What She Wears ‘ e 71 Descriptions of Fashions . Ric An Automobile Tour . : . ji Vienna : ° ° . - 74 Vogue’s Weekly Pattern . - 80 Social Topi Thdeles te D Glimpses 74. Whispers 80 ocia opics— irainin in eport- ° . 4 Seen in the Shops. . - 76 Forthe Hostess . ‘ ‘ . & ment s Weglected Study 66 What They Read. . . 78% Requests for Patterns . 4 ees ae Haphazard Jottings 68 The Quelétzt—verse 78 As Seen by Him ; . ¥, vi Two Interpretations—fiction 68 On the Book Counter 78 Women in Aquatic Sports ‘ vi ROBES AND GOWNS PHILADELPHIA, PA. a 2 ee ROSENTHAL @ LADIES’ TAILOR—IMPORTER AND - euesauen GREG ARES y e a T COSTUMES, ETC, 10 West 35th St., near Fifth Ave. - "tees Accs amen, Pataleteiins oy DIED D’Oremieulx.—At the residence of his : 2 # ZA UN HATS AND BONNETS sister, Waldeck, Oyster Bay, Long Island, on aieine aren 28 July, Leon Francisque d’Oremieulx, only 15 West joth Street pe aoe DAMMRICH LADIES’ TAILOR STREET GOWNS AND RIDING HABITS 18 East zoth Street, near Broadway M E. v. NOEL (Late with Felix, Paris) importer and Maker of Robes and Tailor Gowns 55 West 45th St., bet. sth and 6th Aves., New York 5s: A R-? A. t IMPORTER, ROBES ET MANTEAUX 22 East 33d Street, New York EF. LIZABETH HAWVER GOWNS 129 Fifth Avenue, New York ‘6 A BA € TO as The improved ladies’ waist. Patented August oth, 1898. Mme. Marie Elise de Latour. 574 Fifth Avenue, New York, opposite Winasor Hotel. €; H at 2 Re Dressmaker, Latest French Models. Special attention to handmade summer gowns. Open during the Summer. 19 East 31st Street, New York. TADLER & FALK MAKERS OF HIGH-CLASS GARMENTS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN 535 Fifth Avenue, New York, near 44th Street A C. WEINGARTEN ° LADIES’ TAILOR Tailor Gowns for Spring and Summer Wear 37 West 31st Street, New York OCK & TORPEY Formerly with B. Altman & Co. Dress- makers and Importers of street, Evening and Tailor Gowns. 13 West 29th St., New York. WEINGARTEN @ LADIES’ TAILOR AND IMPORTER WALKING AND DRIVING COSTUMES 34 West 35th St., New York Px Bes IMPORTER GOWNS FOR ALL OCCASIONS 142 West 48th St., New York M. A. HERESA MARTYN DESIGNER AND IMPORTER ORIGINAL DESIGNS IN GOWNS AND WRAPS 40 West 47th St., New York LEXANDRE M. GREAN Formerly with B. Altman & Co, and Stern Bros.,now Grean & Borschneck, 297 Fifth Avenue, New York, OUMANS—H ATS ROUND HATS AND BONNETS 1107-1109 Broadway SEND FOR BOOKLET OF STYLES A S T N EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS IN HATS AND BONNETS 122 West 42nd St., New York FE. H. FIELDING & CO. . MILLINERS, BONNETS AND ROUND HATS, 144 West 23d Street, New York. O G AISON NOUVELLE London IMPORTERS Paris Auditorium Hotel, Wabash Ave., Chicago The largest stock of High Class Millinery inthe West CORSETS AND TROUSSEAUX Iss T. T. SCHNEIDER CORSETIERE Fine Custom Corsets and French Lingerie 11 East 33rd Street MS. psaconsr CORSETIERE DE PARIS THE BEST CUSTOM WORK 135 West 56th Street, New York ME. GARDNER CUSTOM-MADE CORSETS 52 West 21st Street, New York. SPECIAL NOTICES MERICAN HERALDRY Heraldic assistance ; critical and practical ren- dered to genealogists, families and designers. W ork sent for examination, returnable if not desired MORTIMER DELANO de LANNOY Pursuivant, of-armes Mem., N. Y. Gen. & Bio. Soc., Societe Suisse d’Heraldique and Herald Society zu Berlin, 104 W. 120th St., New York, or Southampton, L. 1., Box 66. PROFESSIONAL CARDS ENRY BLACKWELL BOOKBINDING, PLAIN AND ARTISTIC IN ALL VARIETIES OF LEATHER 56 University Place, Cor. roth St., N. Y. ” TOILET ARTICLES LEIN SKIN FOOD Will soften and whiten the skin in a few ap- plications. Continued use softens and removes wrinkles—or money cheerfully refunded. Price by mail, $1.50. OLItve ROBART, 343 Fifth Avenue. HAIRDRESSING A N D R E (Late with A. Simonson) Lapigs’ HAIR DRESSING. Specialist in Hair Coloring, Shampooing arc Scalp Treatment, Human Hair Goods, Shelli Ornaments, Toilet Articles, etc. 13 West 2oth Street. Telephone 856 Madison Square. son of Laura Wolcott Gibbs and the late Theophile Marie d’Oremieulx. MARRIED Sturgis-Barnes.— At Trinity Church, Lenox, Mass., on 26 July, Edith, daughter of Capt. and Mrs. John S. Barnes, to S. War- ren Sturgis of Boston, by the Rev. Harold Arrowsmith of Lenox, assisted by the Rev. David H. Greer of New York and the Rey. Endicott Peabody of Groton, Mass. CORRESPONDENCE Bar Harbor.—The first dance of the season was held at the Malvern on 26 July and was preceded by a dinner given by Mrs. Alexander T. Van Nest, whose guests in- cluded Miss Eleanor Patterson, Miss Marion Lawrence, Miss Elizabeth Jackson, Miss Anderson, Mr. and Mrs. Horace Gallatin, Edmund Pendleton, Miss Van Nest, Ardent M. Robbins, John B. Henderson, Jr , Mr. Cushman, Ronald Johnson, the Rev. W, O. Baker, and Paul Hunt. Present at the dance were : Mr. and Mrs, T. G. Condon, Mr, and Mrs. William Law- rence Green, Mr. and Mrs. Antonio Y. Stew- art, Miss King, Mr. and Mrs. Charies Aber- crombie, Miss Van Ren-s-laer, Mr. and Mrs. George Robbins, Theodore Bjornsten, Car- ro.l Brent Chilton, Miss Carpenter, Mr. and Mrs. Morgan G. Barn:li, Miss Sharswood, Miss Edwards, Miss Draper, Miss Redmond, Mrs. Gouverneur Morris, and Mr. and Mrs. John L. Emery. The second annual regatta for the sloops in the harbor will be beld to-day. Among the entries are: The Rosalind, owned by Fred May; the Anaqua, owned by A. Howard Hinkle; the Kebayun, owned by William P, Draper; tke Beatrice, owned by Arnold Watson; the Norseman, from North East Harbor, and Henry Cannon’s sloop, from Grindstone. Mr. and Mrs. J. J. Emery gave a dinner Jast week, Their guests were Mr. and Mrs. Arthur D. Weeks, Mr. and Mrs. A. Hor- ace Gallatin, Miss Jackson, Miss Van Rens- selaer, Miss Nita Alexander, Miss Van Nest, Miss Barrett, Miss Knowlton, Messrs. Baker, Brun, the Danish Minister, John B. Hender- son, Jr., Paul Hunt, Charles Robinson and Lewis Niles Roberts. Dinners have also been given during the week by Mrs. Frederick Jay, by Mr. and Mrs. Charles Carroll Jackson and Mr. John Addison. Mrs. A. Howard Hinkle gave a iuncheon last week in honor of Miss Anderson. Present were Miss Ripley, Miss Edwards, Miss Fran- ces Anderson, Miss Owen, Miss Taylor, Miss Conover, Miss McCormick, the Misses Seely, Miss Shillito, Miss Lawson, Miss Frances M. McLane, Miss Eleanor Patterson, Mrs. Joy, Miss Matthews, Mrs Condon, Miss Beach, Miss Clark, Mrs. John B. Shober, Miss Stanton, Miss Kimball, Miss Marten, Miss A. Leffingwell, Miss Annear and Mis Bergner. A luncheon was also given by Mrs. D: Hennen Morris. Her guests included M. John S. Kennedy, Mrs Henry D. Knowltor Mrs. William Jay Shieffelin, Mrs. Schauffler, Mrs. Jennings, Mrs. Cadwalader Jones, Mrs. Morrill, Mrs. Gouverneur Morris, Mrs. Cushm Mrs. \ mond. Rec Mrs. ‘ liam I Dunloy A. Sco Mrs. | Van N ston, Ne\ 30 -foot given Vaquer B. Dus took ot Among P. Bel wold, I I, Tow Sheldos Mr. an Elisha Drexel, Mrs. ; Buchan Mr. Ja and Mr The was as | Boata Vaquero Dorothy. Hera, R: Polly wo; Veda, C. Asabi, L Wawa, I Esperanz Puck, E Senat more w party at 4 until Dinn week b of Col. and Mi Mrs. El broke ] Forest, Mr. and Mrs. Ja Robert | Mr. ¢ of dinne other se Tuesday Stuyvesa R. Drex musicale Dinne Mrs. E. Mrs, Ch Lanier a Recer Adolph Payne C. Pott Allen, E man, M and Mrs Baring a Sout nament, necock © past wee gay. A the Mea in hono The coti dancing Dorothy Alice B: Frances Fife Po Clark, tl Mr. B. Samuel Mr. Jat rocque, | ‘andt D sorge | tr. Ro ochan, dattersh Coffin, |! and Mr Mrs. Ed

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ice of his island, on sulx, only the late Church, iughter of > S. War- . Harold the Rev. the Rey, e of the n 26 July by Mrs. guests in- 3 Marion nm, Miss Gallatin, +, Ardent Jr, Mr. y. W. O. and Mrs, am Law- Y. Stew- ries Aber- and Mrs. en, Car- Mr. and larswood, .edmond, ind Mrs. sloops in nong the by Fred Howard illiam P, Arnold orth East op, from a dinner ind Mrs. A. Hor- an Rens- Tan Nest, s. Baker, Hender- nson and iring the Mr. and Ar. John iuncheon . Present iss Fran- lor, Miss ses Seely, ances M. Mrs. Joy, ss Beach, er, Miss en, Miss nd Mis Irs. D: ded M. nowlto1 chauffler, nes, Mrs. is, Mrs.

Cushman, Mrs. Herbert Parsons, Mrs, Spence, Mrs. W. P. Walley and Mrs. Henry Red- mond. Recent arrivals at Bar Harbor are Mr, and Mrs. George H. Reed, Mr. and Mrs. Wil- liam Masters Camac, Mr. and Mis. John Dunlop, Miss Evelyn White, Mrs. Thomas A. Scott, Mr. and Mrs. W. E, D. Stokes, Mrs. J. C. Carey, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Van Ness, and Mr. and Mrs. Philip Living- ston, Newport.—A special race between the 30-footers was sailed on Saturday for a cup given by Mrs. Pembroke Jones. The Vaquero 111, owned and sailed by Mr. Herman B. Duryea, won by 59 seconds. Mrs. Jones took out a party on the steam yacht Narada. Among whom were Mr, and Mrs. Oliver H. P. Belmont, Mr. and Mrs. Chester Gris- wold, Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, Mr. and Mrs, 1, Townsend Burden, Mr. and Mrs. Frederic Sheldon, Mr. and Mrs. W. Watts Sherman, Mr. and Mrs. Richa-d T. Wilson, and Mrs. Elisha Dyer, Jr., Mr. and Mrs. John R. Drexel, Mr. and Mrs. Edward J. Berwind, Mrs. James P. Kenochan, Mr. and Mrs. Buchanan Winthrop, Mr. James V. Parker, Mr. James Woodward, Mr. Louis O. Jones, and Mr. and Mrs. E. Livingston Ludlow. The boats that competed and their time was as follows. Distance 25 miles. Elapsed Finish. Time. Boat and Owner H.M.S. H.M.S Vaquero III, Herman B. Duryea..4 00 37 4 20 37 Dorothy, Harry P. Whitney...... 4 01 36 421 36 Hera, Ralph N. Ellas............. 403 O2 4 23 02 Pollywog, A. H. Paget.......... 403 04 4 23 06 Veda, C, Vanderbilt, Jr........ .. 406 13 4 24 13 Asabi, Lloyd Warren........... 40°05 21 4265 21 Wawa, Reginald Brooks.......... 406 36 4 26 36 Esperanza, H. O. Havemeyer..... 4°7 49 42749 Puck, E D. Morgan......-.....- Did not finish. Senator and Mrs. George Peabody Wet- more will give a large reception and lawn party at Chateau sur Mer on 4 August from 4 until 7. Dinners have been given during the past week by Mrs. Edward S. Willing, in honor of Col. and Mrs. John Jacob Astor, by Mr. and Mrs. H. Mortimer Brooks, Mr. and Mrs. Elisha Dyer, Jr., Mr. and Mrs. Pem- broke Jones, Mr. and Mrs. George B. De Forest, Mr. and Mrs. E. Rollins Morse, Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Oelrichs, Mr. and Mrs. James F. D. Lanier and Mr. and Mrs. Robert H. I. Goddard. Mr. Chauncey M. Depew will give a series of dinners on Monday evenings in August; other series will be given by Mrs. Astor on Tuesdays, Mrs. Potter Palmer and Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish on Saturdays. Mrs, John R. Drexel will give four large receptions and musicales on Saturdays, beginning on 5 Aug. Dinners were given on Saturday evening Ly Mrs. E. Rollins Morse, Mrs. J. J. Martin, Mrs, Charles M. Oelrichs, Mrs. J. F. D. Lanier and Mrs, H. I. Goddard, Recent arrivals at Newport include Mrs. Adolph Ladenburg, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Paynz Whitney, Mr. and Mrs. Edward C. Potter, Mr. and Mrs. Frederic H. Allen, Earl of Yarmouth, Mrs. George Hoff- man, Mr. and Mrs, W. Starr Miller, Mr, and Mrs, Eugene Van Rensselaer, Mr. Cecil Baring and Mr. Goold Hoyt. Southampton.— The open golf tour- nament, which has been held on the Shin- necock links near Southampton during the past week, has made the iatrer place very gay. A dance was given on Thu. eve. at the Meadow Club by Mrs. A. Aymar Sands, in honor of her daughter, Miss May Sands. The cotillon was led by Mr. Henry G. Trevor, dancing with Miss Sands. Present were Miss Dorothy Schieffelin, Miss Beatrix Hoyt, Miss Alice Babcock, Miss Gertrude Barclay, Miss Frances Howland, Miss Carrie Edgar, Miss Fife Potter, Miss Alice Sands, the Misses Clark, the Misses Hollins, Miss Elsie Barker, Mr. B. Hollins, Mr. Victor Morawetz, Mr. Samuel L. Parrish, Mr. Roger Winthrop, Mr. James W. Barney, Mr. Louis E. La- rocque, Mr. G. Thornton Warren, Mr. Cort- ‘andt D, Barnes, Mr. Suffern Tailer, Mr. sorge C. Clark, Mr. Maxwell Stevenson, *. Robert C. Sands, Mr. Frederic Ker- schan, Mr. Goelet Gallatin, Rev. Dr. Sattershall, Mr. Ashbel H. Barney, Messrs. Coffin, Mr. and Mrs. William Manice, Mr. and Mrs. Charles R. Henderson, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Bell, Mr. and Mrs. Harry W.

McVickar, Mr. and Mrs. James L. Breese, Mr. and Mrs. Russell H. Hoadly, Mr. and Mrs, James Lorillard Kernochan, Dr. and Mrs. H. Holbrook Curtis, Mr. and Mrs. Stephen Peabody, Mrs. Henry G. Trevor. A cotillon and reception were given by the Governors of the Meadow Club on Sat., 29 July. The cotillon was led by Mr. Charles R. Henderson, dancing with Mr, Henry Graff Trevor. At supper Mr. Elihu Root, the recently appointed Secretary of War, who is a member of the Club, and has a country place at Southampton, made a short speech. Among the guests were Mr. and Mrs. Henry May, Mr. and Mrs. James L. Breese, General and Mrs. Thomas H, Barber, Mr. and Mrs. Robert Henderson Robertson, Mr. T. Markoe Robertson, Mr, Drexel Godfrey, Mr. and Mrs. William Manice, Mrs, E S. Knapp, Mrs. Charles Steele, Miss Wood, Mr. and Mrs. Henry E. Coe, Mr. and Mrs. George C. Clark, Miss Clark, Miss Dorothy Schieffelin, Mr. George E. Wood, Mr. Henry G. Trevor, Mr. and Mrs. J. Bowers Lee, Mr. and Mrs. George R. Schieffelin, Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Miller, Mr. and Mrs, Oliver Harriman, Jr., Mr. and Mrs. A. L, Morton, Mr. and Mrs. James L. Barclay, Mrs. Charles R, Henderson, Miss Hender- son, Mr. and Mrs. Charles H. Godfrey, Mr. and Mrs. B. Armar Sands, Miss May Sands. GOLF Shinnecock.—The annual invitation golf tournament of the Shinnecock Hills Golf Club was played last week. The course of eighteen holes was divided as follows : Out...291 277 248 228 162 308 357 354 489—2,714 In....413 231 203 368 384 370 260 214 212—2,655 Total. . were ere errr eee eee eee eee ee ees 2) The gold medal for the best score for 36 holes was won by Harry Hollins, Jr., in 160, he also won the medal last year with a score of 166. The sixteen who qualified for the President’s cup were : PRESIDENT’S CUP SIXTEEN (GOLD MEDAL) H. B. Hollins, Jr., Westbrook.

OGhoccvced 644435 5 5 4-40 BRecvvcces 5 44 56 § § 3 3—40—80 WOR 660006 45443 564 6—4I Diisdad. 00s 6344 6 § § 3 3-—39—80—160 W. J. Travis, Oakland, Out os 0d 43443 6 5 § 6-4 In.....+4- 5445 5 44 3 4-38-78 Out...... $64435 5 717-@ SF SEN 5 5 445 $ $ 3 3—39-—-85—163 R. Terry, Jr., Shinnecock. ae 56433 5 5 4 64 In.. 6444 5 5 3 3 4—-38—79 GR cctecs 4453 56 8 4 6—45 In.. 5 446 6 7 4 3 4—43—83—167 A. M. Brown, Shinnecock | RS 54443 56 6 7—44 Dieseness 6345 5 5 4 4 4-49-84 i ecived S:4.¢ $4 5 5 G—42 Di ais cnd 5 446 § © § 4 4—43—85—I169 M.A. Murdock, Shinnecock. OS .cccce $445 3 6 5 6 8—46 ee 54575 $ 4 3 5—43—89 —. 574446 4 4 7-45 BD ccccccos $5 5 444 5 4 3 3—37—82—171 T. Markoe Robertson, Shinnecock, ar 5 5 + 5 3 $$ § 6-43 eee $44 6 6 § 3 3—42—85 eee 6544564 6 7-47 GOs cevccee $445 § 6 4 3 4—40—87—172 G. C. Clark, Jr., Shinnecock, DUB: ..0 sees 5654446 6 6—46 DE cudende 44466 § 4 4 4—41—87 Pes cnc 694735354645 }@ Bie vavstud 5445 § © 4 3 3—39—85—172 Daniel Chauncey, Dyker Meadow. OME .ccved 6565 5 6 § 6 6—50 BB. coed ses an.8 £9 ¢ 3 4 4—36—88 Oab. .sr0¢ es = 2 7- 44 BW. cpecces $45 § § 4 5 3 4—-40—84—172 6 5 5s—4 3 4 4-43-87 5 5 7—46 4 4 4—40—86—173 | 5 6 6--43 5 4 5—45—88 6 5 7-44 4 4 5-43-—-107 Louis E. La Rocque, Shinnecock, Out.. 4454245 § S44 BB ivecedes 5645 76 4 4 4—45—86 OW. vitse 464436 5 § 7-44 Misc cccced 6 45 66 § 4 §—45—89—175 Charles Hitchcock, Jr,, Point Judith. ‘*We were not at all alarmed in making ey teteee 4 s + ¢ ¢ ; $ 7 we the trip, although we had to go through some ae te Se ee Be [itce very lonely woods and stretches of” country. —* ae $ ; | a ; - Sascha or men inside, The only concern that rested : heavily on our minds was the thought of run- PS saggy oa + és ny ae ae ning short of fuel and breaking down on the alia one aae eee So boas road. But we were prepared for that ina UE sven 46.8843 3 7 te way. Besides taking an extra supply of fuel, Rp: 5 7 46 § 6 § 3 4~—45—92—177 we had our bicycles stored in the automobile, and we could easily have reached a house or town to get help if anything had happened. On the whole I think the automobile will be Those to qualify for the other cups were : PECONIC CUP EIGHT ro Re Out In Total the greatest touring vehicle in the world in Bf: Boban Shiangcock...--88 $9177 the near future. Large and roomy conveyan- G. S, Atherton, Wollaston......... gt 87 178 es should be made for this special purpose, C. B. Cory, Wollaston............ 9° 89 179 with lockers and drawers for clothes and pro- W.T. Hitt, Chery Chase-..--..-94 86 180 Visions. If they made such carriages it would S. P. Nash, Jr., Maidstone........ 92 88 180 800n become a fad for families and parties to De Lancey Nicoll, Shinnecock..... 94 88 182 spend their summer vacations in this way. I comeseatson Coe our do not know of any other method by which George Phelps, Fairfield.......... 88 os 183; OMe can study and see the country so thor- W. W. Hoffman, Jr.,Shinnecock..97 96 183 oughly. Then when you get tired you can : r hg yc . o. take a spin on your wheels alongside of the E. S. Knapp, Westbrook.......... 87 97 184 @utomobile, or make side trips on them. I T. C. Havemeyer, Newport....... 91 893 184 am very enthusiastic over the trip, and shall L P. Bayard, Jr.,Baltusrol.. -...92 93 185 organize a party next summer to repeat it in Alex Morton, Westchester C. C....94 gl AN AUTOMOBILE TOUR Ne of the pleasantest outing excursions made this summer was by a party of 18 5 another state and on a larger scale.’* FAIR WOMEN FROM VOGUE hey : : A collection of portraits of ladies originally published young ladies from Philadelphia, who in Vogue. Sent, postpaid, on pte of pF oom £3.00 spent a week touring through New Jersey in by Vogue, 3 West agth Street, New York, one of the new vehicles of fashion—the auto- | A ve: A mobile. They followed in the wake of the | STADLER & FALK | |

wandering gipsy —but in such modern fashion MAKERS OF that they could hardly be classed together. HIGH CLASS GARMENTS The automobile was a large combination car- | riage and prairie schooner, having a collapsi- | ble top and sides which could be raised at will | to shut out the surrounding landscape, and | | FOR form a nice dressing or sleeping room. There|| LADIES AND GENTLEMEN were four in the party —three young ladiesand | | ail an eldarly chaperone. They carried with | 535 FIFTH AVENUE them sufficient clothing to make agreeable ADJOINING DELMONICO’S changes along their route, and stationery | | : enough to last a month. Provisions they ! | NEW YORK purchased in the towns through which they passed. They did not camp out, but arranged to reach good hotels and inns at night where Gor YACHTING they sought slumber that came easily after the day’s ride. It was a novel undertaking—the CosTUMES CosTUMES first, I believe, of its kind—but it certainly | | "rer Cy will not be the last. The possibilities of the Farner automobile for summer touring are almost unlimited. There is little doubt but it will supplant the coach and four, the tally-ho, and even the bicycle. The success and pleasures of the trip are thus described in a private in- terview I had with one of the excursionists : The only makers of the S, & F, Patented Safety Cycle and Goif Skirts GENTLEMEN'S RIDING AND GOLF BREECHES A SPECIALTY.

BIRTHDAY CAKES CaREFULLY PacKkeD FOR SHIPMENT OUT-OF-TOWN.

572 FIFTH AVENUE, BET. 46TH AND 47TH STREETS, NEW YORK. Wsant

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so well That it is no extreme Of speech to say: “Tt holds you in Just like another seam.” See that hump? The DeLong Hook ana Eye. RICHARDSON & DgeLONG BROS., Mfrs., PHILADELPHIA, PA., U.S.A. Hereisaclasp that clings | Perfection of Quality Absolute Purity iS Ret S.RAE&CO. P ) Leghorn, Italy | | J Established 1836 || : an Qlyb @OoekTAl S IP MANHATTAN, MARTINI, WHISKEY. HOLLAND GIN, Tom GIN, VERMOUTH, AND York. | ACocktTait Must Be Corp To Be Goon; To Serve In Perrect ConoiTion, Pour Over Cracxeo Ice, Not Sxaven) Stir Ano Strain Orr. 'SSSSS$SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS8 SG YOUMANS CELEBRATED HATS ROUND HATS AND BONNETS YACHTING CAPS GOLF AND CYCLE HATS AND CAPS WHITE DUCK 1107 and 1109 Broadway, Madison Square West 158 Broadway, near Liberty Street CORRECT STYLES IN Authorized Agents in Principal Cities Write for Booklet of Styles BLUE CLOTH + ma SSS ee ee q 2 ZY ENGLISH GOLFING SWEATER Also for other Athletic Sports In fine white or bright scarlet. Heavy knitted cable stitch. Made with high col- lar or low cut round neck. Prices from $5.00 to $15.00 by mail or express prepaid. Tam-O’-Shanter Caps of same knit and color to match. Materials, needles, patterns and full directions for knitting sent for $1.50. We invite correspondence from out-of-town patrons. ALICE MAYNARD 10 West T wenty-second Street NEW YORK Lakewood New Jersey FRANCIS O’NEILL BOOT MAKER VOGUE :— We have now a most desirable selec- tion of yachting shoes and oxfords, with high or low, or no heel at all, and with a leather or rubber bottom. Kept on band in stock, or made to order on exceedingly short no- tice, Weare now selling a great many of our white canvas, duck or buckskin goods at ex- ceedingly low prices. FRANCIS O’NEILL 1170 and 1172 Broadway, Corner 28th Street Hi lustrated in ) b “VOGUE” r any other magazine may e had at the office of The Morse Broughton Co., 3 East 19TH STREET, Bet. Broadway and sth Ave., New York. RS F G R E A T } WEST E R N Imported Patterns of the latest designs as well as patterns of any design il- || FINEST CHAMPAGNE IN AMERICA. | A Home Product which Amer- icans are Especially | Proud of. 3 | : : > , > : , > , | Now used in many of the best | hotels, clubs and homes, in | preference to foreign ; - 4 vintages. > . : : > . : 7 : > : > > : ’ For particulars, prices, etc., address, Pleasant Valley Wine Company, RHEIMS, | euavene Co., New Yor«x. eocceces | For sale by all first-class hetels and high-class grocers. iv Libby’s Luncheons Delicious, delightful, delectable meat dainties—always all ready—no fire no bother—all you have to do is to serve—for home, for picnics, for everywhere, | Veal Loaf|/Ox Tongue (whole) | |Putted Ham, Beef and Tongue | | Deviled Ham | | Brisket Beef | Put up in convenient sized key-opening cans. Libby’s Home-Baked Pork and Beans. The kind which taste even better than those mother used to bake. Our Booklet, ‘“* How to ~ Good Things to Eat” yours for a post Libby, McNeill & Libby, Chicago. | Water Sliced Smoked Beef

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ING Heavy igh col- ' express me nd full 50. FOR ‘* DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS” SEE ANOTHER PAGE

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SO eal ee Se ET EP SEE ewes tte TSA ee i® Ew subjects are being more earnestly discussed than that of the most-to-be-desired system of education for the child, and there is hardly a phase of training but is debated in detail. It is noticeable, however, that infinitely less is said of deportment than of any variety of training, and this is surprising since the more intelli- gent and advanced educators realize that the object of the education of youth is in reality to fit the young of the race to its environment. In relation to most other studies it is realized that the plastic period of youth is the time for instilling and molding, but instruction in deport- ment is left to chance or to home training, which in most cases is equivalent to leaving it also to haphazard. Public school instruction especially cannot afford to ignore man- ners, for in most cases the pupils have practically no training outside the schoolroom, and the insistence upon the essential equality of men which is in the air in this country tends to develop an exaggerated sense of self-importance which affects unpleasantly the manners of the multitude. Many are the varieties of rudeness which an underbred person will display with the sole intent of emphasizing her or his opinion that she is as good as the next one, unaware that the very act by its rudeness proves the falsity of the claim. If a member of the domestic “class finds herself, for example, with other women at the elevator door in a hotel, the probabilities are that she will thrust her- selt forward, enter the car first and seat herself under the delusion that she has maintained her position as a lady of equality. If she but took observations in manner she would discover that it is the custom of well-bred women to proffer opportunity for first entrance to any other woman who may be about to take the elevator. Young women and men book educated above their class make pitiable exhibitions of themselves frequently because they have never been properly trained in deportment. Their dominant idea is to im- press all those with whom they are brought into contact with their superiority, and they set about to accomplish this by giving themselves haughty airs instead of by faithfully and skilfully performing any duties that they may undertake, or by displaying an unvarying cour- tesy. A proper training in deportment would have taught them that the charity which vaunteth not itself and the disposition to in honor to prefer one another are not only sound doctrine theologically, but that . this concern about the rights of others is a manifestation of the altruis- tic impulse which alone makes human intercourse possible. In spite of compulsory school laws and increased college attendance, manners are still deplorably bad, and this is clearly the fault of parents and educators, for it is the experience of those philanthropists who have concerned themselves with improving the condition of the poor of both sexes, that girls and boys can very easily be made to take pride in behavior. The demand for etiquette books in girls’ clubs is said to be very heavy, and even where these aids to behavior are not fur- nished, the mere association with the gentlewomen in charge in a short time works a marvelous transformation in the manners of the girls who are quick to observe and to adopt well-bred behavior. And the boys are no wise behind in their desire to appear as polished as the directors of their associations, and for confirmation of this statement the interested reader is referred to the Educational Alliance of this city. Deportment, superficially taught as it is in many young ladies’ finishing schools, is snobbish and intrinsically vulgar, as it encourages self-emphasis and a proportional depreciation of others; but manner- liness, based upon fitting the human creature for its environment, will produce a manner compounded of dignified simplicity, sincerity and unselfishness. ©9

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THE LOOKOUT

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HAPHAZARD JOTTINGS UNIQUE ATTEMPT TO CONQUER TERRITORY— ADVENTUROUS CAREER OF A FRENCH MILI- TARY OFFICER—TRADE SCHOOL GRADUATE — SO-CALLED ‘* PLATFORM’’ WOMAN LAUGHS HER CRITICS TO SCORN— CALIFORNIAN ONION RANCHES AND CELERY SECTIONS War of a peculiar type is being carried on in a portion of Turkey, the leaders being schoolmasters, and the accoutre- ments, books, blackboads and other primary classroom paraphernalia. The scene of this unique struggle is Macedonia, and the com- batants are actuated by racial ambition, their object being the acquisition of territory in which regards they resemble foes that settle their differences by the military methods. It is through the schools that Greece, Bulgaria, Servia and Roumania have set out each to con- quer Macedonia for its nation. The Greeks have, heretofore, been more enterprising, but latterly Bulgaria’s activity has seriously threat- ened the supremacy of the Greek. The latter have nearly thirteen hundred schools, which have an attendance of eighty-five thousand scholars. Bulgaria, thus far, shows over eight hundred schools with a scholar list of twenty- nine thousand and a half. Occidental nations, might, with grace, take a leaf out of the book of these Eastern peoples. A conquest of terri- tory by letters appears somewhat more in con- sonance with the boasted civilization of the nineteenth century than do the slaughterings which are euphoniously called military eam- paigns. * * * It is encouraging to be assured by the man- agers of the Baron de Hirsch Trade School that over eighty per cent. of the graduates of 1898 are working at their trades, which comprise such fundamentally useful occupations as house and sign painting, plumbing, carpentry and machinists’ work. The need for hand-workers is imperative, as much for the sake of the in- dividual as for the reason that the tendency toward clerkships and professions is so strong and persistent, that handicraftsmen bid fair to become more scarce, as the years go by, with the result of beggarly wage pittance in the over- crowded avenues of work, and a loss of in- ternal material growth and international trade. The heart and the head have, heretofore, been exalted at the expense of the hand, but it is to be hoped that a wiser day is dawning, and that the necessity of radical changes and modifica- tions in the training of youth will come to be realized by parents, guardians and publicists. * * * The political events of the last few weeks in France have brought into prominence—in fact what one might call renewed prominence VOGUE —some more or less distinguished politicians and statesmen. Few, if any, have the distinc- tion of so extraordinary a career as_ that which has fallen to the lot of General Galliffet, whose presence in the makeshift cabinet was so vehemently resented by the Radicals. It will be remembered that this officer incurred the enmity of the extremists by his conduct of the campaign against the Commune. A cor- respondent with a memory has lately rehearsed the principal events of the General's career, and they are sufficiently amazing. A ladies’ darling, a dashing soldier at eighteen, he ac- companied the fated French expedition to Mexico. He was so luckless as to have the front of his abdomen torn off by a shell. He had the presence of mind to use his hat to support the part that had been so desperately injured. Medical aid came to his rescue, but the best that could be done was to swathe him like a mummy and return him to France. Here he was fitted with a silver plate. So far from being disabled, he led a desperate cavalry charge at Sedan. Since that fatal battle he has enjoyed every honor which can fall to a gen- eral in times of peace, and here, thirty-six years after his terrible battle wound, he is called upon to help, by his presence, the formation of an emergency cabinet upon the successful working of which depends the peace of France. Stranger experiences never fell to the lot of one man. * * * ‘¢ Platform’ women is the intentionally op- probrious title applied to the women who have stood before audiences to urge the adoption of reforms of various kinds, and it is not so long ago that a journal ostensibly devoted to wom- en’s interest indulged in some exceedingly crude and really surprising allegations on the subject of these public-spirited women. They are, according to this self-constituted authority, a blot upon American womanhood which is on the wane, as the ‘¢ platform *’ woman finds it more and more difficult to get listeners and «« where she has spoken during the present sea- son she has not been seen again.’ So says this wiseacre, whose silly talk was hardly em- balmed in type before the Woman's Interna- tional Congress assembled thousands of nota- ble women in London, of whom hundreds ad- dressed audiences that packed enormous-sized assembly halls. The proceedings of these ‘¢plat- form*’ ladies not only received extensive no- tice in the English press, but the incidents and speeches of the Congress were made the sub- ject of regular cable messages to the promi- nent journals of this country. A _ further distinction was the recognition of the “ plat- form’’ women by so eminently conservative and highly respectable a person as Queen Victoria, who extended the courtesy of her hos- pitality to representatives of the despised class. Verily for a dying out type the ‘‘ platform” woman has of late shown such an amazing vitality and secured for herself so extensive a popularity as argues ill for the peace of mind of those who disapprove of her. Indeed the case appears quite hopeless for those who deride the woman who busies herself about matters outside of her home. Either the journal or the individual must come around to recognizing the exceeding worth of such types of women to the community, or the journal or the individual will find itself or himself properly set down as a promulgator of back number theories. 68

Specialization as applied to farming opera- tions is being tried extensively in California; it being applied to the cultivation of some special variety of vegetable, such as corn, cabbage, beans, onions, or parsley, a whole ranch of ten or fifteen acres being devoted exclusively to the cultivation of the one decided-upon vegetable. The individual is known as a grower and he strives to raise a superior quality of edible and to secure for himself a reputation which shall permit him to sell his produce above market rates. This is a reasonable aim and it will inevitably bring successful growers the result they strive for. The custom of devoting whole districts to the cultivation of one vege- table—for example, eight hundred acres belong- ing to different growers being given over exclusively to celery culture—does not, how- ever, appear to be a particularly wise method unless the various growers will individually strive to make his product superlative in quality and thus establish for the locality a reputation for superior celery. Excellence has an appre- ciable market value so far at least as vegetables are concerned. TWO INTERPRETATIONS BY EMILY RANDALL He journey was over and I was dozing in my room, the same old room where I had dozed two summers before. How good it seemed to be back in this tran- quil spot where all things favored repose ! The rustle of the ivy shading my window ; the soft sighing of the summer wind in the oaks and firs that bordered the basin ; the faint sweet smell of the lilies that flecked its bosom; even the murmur of voices in the lawn just out- side; how restful after the tumult of the city ! It seemed to my half-waking sense as though I had passed away from the turmoil of life to that haven of rest ever dreamed of by world-weary souls; that the breezes and odors were of paradise ; the voices, voices of angels. But my illusion was soon dispelled, for the voices approached and became distinctly audi- ble. Too often must such illusion vanish when the cadence of the human voice takes definiteness in word and phrase. The speakers were women—their theme a woman. (The window behind the vines was doubtless forgotten.) I moved my head fur- ther from the window, but the voices were persistent and it was revealed to me that she of their discussion was very pretty—quite culp- ably pretty, it seemed. Nor was all this unseemly prettiness all the charge, though doubtless the root of all the evil. There was heartless coquetry—the voices trusted nothing worse, but sighed. Then the little boy, they feared, was much neglected. It seemed al- most as though he were considered an incum- brance. The voices hoped not. Poor child! What was it about—a husband ? She some- times spoke of a husband? Oh, yes, she spoke of one. It further appeared that this siren had chosen as her present victim one of the best of men—anybody could see that. How soci- able and nice he was with the rest before she came and turned his head! (Here the sighs came thick and fast.) Really a fine man ; but the finest, of course, were never proof against the wiles of such a woman. Of course.

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_Here the conference was broken up by the wholesome tones of Mrs. Betts calling to supper. At table I was seated opposite a trio which I recognized as the subject of the recent gossip. What a darling child ! was my first thought, woman like. And he did not look neglected, though I soon noticed, with a little pang for him, that his mother’s atten- tion was mostly given to the man at her right. He was a well-looking man, though otherwise his excellences were not so apparent as the voices had led me to suppose. And was she pretty, that littlke Mrs. Dana? Yes, if a morn in June, with the dewdrops flashing in the glad sunshine, and the “ warble of birds and scent of roses everywhere, are pretty. I should have chosen another word, I thought—a coquette? Each move- ment of the dainty head was full of charming coquetry and arch- a ness. The rosy lips were wreathed in thoughtless smiles, yet some- ~~ thing in the curve of the iittle mouth I liked ; and the eyes would have been frank but for the dance and gleam of one drop too much wine in youth's cup. Upon her cheek—within it, rather—reposed the delicious tinge of a succulent, ripened peach. Such is seen only in the cheek from which no chilling blast of a great anguish has driven back / the blood to congeal upon the heart. After that it may kindle f red with anger or with shame, or may wear the bold counterfeit j contrived by skill and pigment ; may even glow with health or the eager flush of joy ; but that unruffled deep of youth's rose-hued elixir is seen there nevermore. I recalled with a feeling of impatience the implications of the voices. True, my first glance had recognized this woman as the one depicted ; but some deeper sense in me denied the likeness. oe In a corner of the room where the sunlight streamed Mrs. cave Betts had dropped her knitting-work, and a pretty puff-ball of a pa * kitten was making havoc with the yarn. Involuntarily my glance ae mit fell from the woman to the kitten and grouped the two. How much more, I wondered, had been this woman’s world than a patch of sunshine where the kitten nature in her had frolicked and tangled yarn, while the great soul with its unsounded depths of iy possibility slept? What recked she of the dark realm of error [7 and pain beyond the boundaries of her playground? What knew she of the shadow—this creature of the light? And sin is of the shadow. We sat upon the west porch—she and I. The child played on the steps. Before us shimmered the basin’s sunlit disk. I had brought my book and was just opening it to read when a puff of the western wind filled the air with fragrance, ‘*Oh, what a delightful smell !** cried Mrs. Dana. ‘It is the lilies in the / basin, is it not? Don’t you love the ROUNDING THE BUOY

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lilies? I have been longing to go and gather some, and have asked Mr. Griswold to take me ; but you see there are no boats except that big old one that Eddie has appropriated for his playhouse. Mr. Griswold says there are rows of boats over in the lake beyond the bridge ; but in the basin there is only the old thing— mud-scow, he calls it. Mud-scow! what a ridiculous name!*’ And she clasped her hands behind her head and laughed out merrily. Seeing her thus sociably inclined, I laid aside my book. ‘This is your first season here ?”’ I asked. “Ts. ‘There used to be several boats in the basin,’’ said I, ‘*and it was a favorite pas- time of visitors here to pluck the lilies ; but a number of bad accidents occurred and people are afraid now. So the boats have been taken away. Although the basin in reality is a part of the lake, it is practically a little body by it- self. Shut in by that clumsy bridge, the water is nearly stagnant, and by slow accumulation of leaves and other matter it is filling up. It seems, however, that the water is not of uniform depth, there being places where the soft mud comes nearly to the surface, and there are deep wells between, A person sinking in the water is liable to become entangled in the lily-stems and drowned, or worse, to meet at once his death and burial in the bottomless deposit. Bodies lost in the basin have, as a rule, never been recovered.”” Here Mrs. Dana shook her head half play- fully and said, laughing a little: «<I think I don’t want the lilies as much as I did.”* “IT believe,’’ said I, ‘*that some of these wells are very near the shore; for once when down there in the old boat I went to the back end and peered down into the water, and I could see no bottom—only a general murkiness and a slimy tangle of weeds; and I never see your little boy playing in the boat without a feeling of uneasiness.”” ‘¢ But he couldn't tip it over, you know,’ she replied brightly, ‘it is such a big, flat thing—and you'll be careful, Eddie, won't you, dear?” I looked at her in wonder, then looked at her child. He had stopped from his play and turned up to us his blooming cheeks and dewy eyes—a flower-like face set in the bright calyx of his breeze-blown locks. ‘‘ Thou sweet blossom dropped from the celestial gardens,”’ yearned my hungry heart, ‘* wert thou but mine how tenderly would I guard thee !"" But Eddie, reminded of his playhouse, had galloped away toward it. I watched him till the chubby little figure had half clambered, half tumbled into the boat, then turned to his mother. She had leaned back, raised and crossed her little feet comfortably on a section of the porch railing, and the soft finger-tips were just patting back a yawn. Again flashed across my mind the insinuations of the voices. I thought of Mr. Griswold—‘‘the best of men,’’ and a quick, unreasoning suspicion arose in me. With a swift gesture indicating the basin, I said with pointed emphasis : ««See how it beckons, the wanton thing, with its dimples and its smiles! How allur- ing its lily bloom and breath ; but beneath that lovely surface lurks corruption’s horror—the doom of the unwary.”’ I shot at her a glance of subtle accusation ; but the bright eyes met mine unfalteringly, just widened with wonder at my vehemence ; and the guilty signal I had looked for in that VOGUE untroubled cheek crept painfully into mine. One sultry morning we were sitting out there again, this time not alone. Mr. Griswold was by her side, she chattering gaily to him. Other ladies of this summer household had come, bearing little baskets of embroidery stuff, and their fingers and tongues vied in the fash- ioning of pretty nothingness. Even Mrs. Betts, seeking relief from the heat of her kitchen had brought her pan of apples and sat peeling them in the doorway. Eddie's tousled pate was just visible, bobbing about in the old boat. My finger marked the place in my book, but my eyes watched that bright little head. On the water near the back end of the boat floated a tiny white object. If it were a lily, and Eddie should espy it! But no; I had never known a lily to bloom so near the shore. It was probably a bit of paper. I opened my book and read down the page. While turning the leaf my eyes were raised again to the boat and saw—oh, horror !— Eddie leaning over the edge, reaching toward the white speck, falling ! I started to my feet, gasping, ‘* Eddie— the basin !*’ I looked in terror at Mrs. Dana. Great heaven! she was smiling back at me ! Could I not, then, afford one moment for that sun-blinded being to become aware of the shadow-land of grief? But I did not think of that then. ‘*She is senseless stone or fiend,”’ I thought ; and I clutched her wrist until my nails cut into the tender flesh. Mr. Griswold had quickly taken in the situ- ation, had sprung over the railing and was soon at the shore. And she smiled back at me —for a moment only—and then I knew she was neither stone nor fiend. She uttered one piteous cry of pain and horror and swooned away. The two or three minutes that followed seemed hours. I have a shadowy remem- brance of Mrs. Betts’s heavy figure trying to run towards the field where Amos, the hired man, was working ; and of the other women, who had followed Mr. Griswold, huddled about the old boat in attitudes of awe. I bent over the fainting form, chafing the cold hands with my colder ones, and waited. I knew the danger in trying to rescue a drown- ing person, even achild. Perhaps both would be lost. At last those dreadful minutes were over The group of women fell apart, and there emerged the dripping form of Mr. Griswold bearing the half-drowned child. Eddie was saved. When Mrs. Dana regained consciousness and knew that all was well, she was still much pros- trated. For two days she kept her room, and seemed to prefer being left alone with the child. And for the most part she was scarcely missed ; for this household of femininity was absorbed in the rites of hero-worship, now chanting their paeans to the object of their adoration, now conferring apart in reverential whispers. Meanwhile the hero looked moody and bored. On the third morning we were just sitting down to breakfast when Mrs. Dana, with the child by her side, entered the room. Her face was pale, but she had never seemed to me so beautiful. She responded to the general greet- ing, then gave her hand to Mr. Griswold, and in a voice that wavered a little spoke her grati- tude to him. Her eyes met his with a frank 70°

and earnest expression, then falling to where her fingers touched the curls of little Eddie, were filled with tenderness and tears. «¢ Any man,”’ thought I, ‘‘so sweetly rec- ompensed, might well be content to have risked his life."” But somehow I fancied—lI was not sure—that he did not look content. Once more we were gathered on the west porch. A rare sunset glory lay before us. Mrs. Dana was in her old place, the child playing at her feet. Mr. Griswold sat near, and the two were chattingas of old. And her graceful head was poised much in the old arch way, and the lips smiled brightly ; but the cheeks were paler than before, and the eyes, though turned toward him, seemed gazing far beyond, to the outline of the southern hills, behind which throbbed the feverish pulses of the city. His attention was centred and absorbed in the fair one by his side, but he did not look content. I was sure of it this time. A ripple of excitement was caused by the ar- rival of Amos with the mail. For Mrs. Dana there was only a telegram. She tore open the yellow envelope and glanced at its contents ; then stooped and drew Eddie to her side. The last ray of the setting sun fell on her fair head, and that parting ray —or was it a radiance from within ?—lit up her face with a warm womanly flush, not like the old peach-bloom. She kissed the child tenderly and murmured : “« Eddie, dear, papa is coming to-morrow.’ Next morning I was wakened by the voices, conferring in tones of suppressed excitement outside my window. First I caught only de- tached phrases : ‘* Yes—early train—never said good-bye.” Here the voices dropped to a whisper, but sighs were audible and frequent. Then I heard distinctly : ** Yes, anybody could see that it was so. He saw, and it was so noble of him to go away. Why, when Eddie was in such danger she showed no signs of fainting till she saw him going into peril; and that morning at breakfast when she spoke to him—did you see ? yes, tears! She stooped over the child to con- ceal them.”’ The voices moved away, and as they went there floated back to me : «« Even such as she—sometimes—own toils.”” Dozing again, it seemed to me that I was somewhere, seated at a long table on the centre of which was piled a quantity of fruit. On either side of the pile sat wise-looking persons sorting the fruit. And I thought as I looked at them that they must always have sat there sorting. Their shoulders were bent with long stooping, and their gaze seemed narrowed and fixed. I wondered if they could look up; and I pitied them. Now it seemed that I was very hungry; but the good fruit was all placed at the far end of the table, only the spoiled near me. My eyes gazed longingly at the tempting pile beyond my reach, then fell to the heap of rot betore me. And behold, one had been flung there that was beautifully fair and sound. And as I looked at it with delight it seemed to change, as things do when one is dozing, and became like a human face. I had not noticed before what kind of fruit it was, but I knew now by the translucent richness of this cheek. And the rosy lips were wreathed in thoughtless smiles, but something in the curve of the little mouth I liked. And the bright eyes seemed to beckon me to look more closely; and as I

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looked I saw that others had been thrown there that were fair and sound. Then some were just specked with disease, but were not worthless. I glanced in wonder at the wise ones, and would have remonstrated; but they kept on sorting and never looked up.

Hite, white, turn where we will, noth- ing but white is worn. What has become of the pretty colored batistes and lawns which were so eagerly bought up in the early season, and sent off to be made up with miles and miles of lace? Evidently they are lost in the obscurity of scented wardrobes and long dress shelves. It seems to be consid- ered a démodé thing to be seen in the forenoon in anything but white. Whether you are driving in a runabout or a pongee top phaeton, or sitting high in a very smart automobile, it is all the same—your smart woman is gowned only in white. That is the ultra modish lead, and all the teminine world have joined, con amore, willingly forgetful that they own a col- ored frock at all. Take it all in ail, this movement of a white company gives us some- thing to be thankful for, because it has devel- oped so much general beauty—from an angelic radiance wherever the claims of youth hold good to sweet rejuvenation among those who have lost their claim, while to the bona fide elderlies, with gray or silver locks, a becom- ingness and attractiveness has been born, which their world had thought quite impossible. One cannot but marvel over the kinds and grades of washable white worn this summer, and its valuewhen madeup. <A French gown, for example, to eyes familiar, is recognized at a glance, and the pretty penny paid for it is sur- mised quietly to one’s self. Nowhere in the wide world are such exquisite white gowns turned out as in Paris, all will admit. But the place of all others to show them off on this side of the big pond is Newport. There the move- ment of life and its luxuries is distinctly in ac- cord with them, and they find the true invest- ment of smartness for which they were created awaiting them. Embroidered white linons and linens as well as the finest of piqués, are stately garments worn in the brilliant morning sunshine, covered, as they usually are, with wonderfully fine laces, sewed on or inset. They put quite in the shade otherwise charming white lawns, or nainsooks, with their tucks and needlework, the contrast giving them the air of what a soubrette’s gown on the stage should be, but never is by any chance. Then follow mulls, plain and embroidered, Swiss muslins embroidered by hand or by machine, French lawns, organdies and their inset laces, elaborate embroidered robes, and special skirts with their intricate combinations and designs. Last, the tailor-made in white, the ducks, piqués and linen cheviots. Heavy all-lace guipure gowns or mixtures of guipure and Renaissance are worn driving. Mrs. Clarence Mackay wears hers with the smartness for which she is noted, and how ex- tremely becoming it is in every way! That is not everybody’s experience who does wear them, although the women who fail are cer- tainly very pretty indeed. Still it is granted that when worn driving they are far less trying, as they drape the sitting figure exceedingly

OGUE well, and the lace itself is brought out capitally by the dark polished lines of the carriage, a perfect frame for such an ensemble. All these details have much to do with the success of every carriage gown. Besides, these all-lace gowns there are to be seen charming combi- nations, such as an écru guipure skirt and long sleeves with a princesse over-dress tunic of white linon, inset beautifully with quite another style of lace. This is no longer considered a sin against good taste to mix laces in this way, any more than it has been to mix furs. This was the very chic contrast met on the ocean- drive within a day or two, and carried out also was the latest thing in petite manteaux, or as we call them mantelets, or shoulder-capes with very long stole fronts. This one was built of cream-white taffeta. Upon the shoulder piece were two shaped flounces each ruched on the bottom with pinked out taffeta, and the head- ing of the same. The high collar on the out- side was covered with these ruches, but gradu- ated in size, and the borders of the long tabs all ruchings. For lining, the collar had shir- rings of primrose yellow chiffon. A yellow straw bergére hat as they are called, but more familiarly known as a shepherdess shape, was trimmed with white mousseline and white gardenias, lovely and simple as possible. This put its finishing touch to a toilette of faultless beauty. With sky of the bluest, and sea like a sapphire was the background to this picture, especially as it must be added that there was caried a yellow poult de soie parasol—an en- chanting balance of color; nothing was left to desire, so perfect was it altogether. It is to be regrettted that cycling has been so completely given up by the fashionable world, especially at Newport. It indulged in at all it is in the early morning hours when nobody is about. The consequence is, that cycling cos- tumes are never seen or talked about. But where a smart devotee keeps up the exercise she orders now a fawn tan, says it is the cor- rect thing for skirt and Eton coat, or ‘* bodice *’ as the dressmakers insist on calling them. A light summer tweed is her choice. The skirt as long as it is safe to have it, and stitched well in two separate clusters for finish, The Eton buttons up the front showing a neat white linen chemisette and collar, with usually a white crevat or a white silk one with a line check in pink or blue, and the finish is the same, noth- ing but stitching. The buttons are covered with the cloth, and so are those on the left side- flaps over the skirt opening. A white felt hat with a down crushed crown, a nice broad curl- ing brim bound with white satin, and a bias white satin band around the crown, fastened on the left with two white satin buttons, nothing else. Pair of tan shoes and stockings, and Dent’s tan driving gloves. There are summer resorts where gilt buttons and white cloth re- vers and many other showy creations are to the fore, and find their admirers both on and oft the wheel. But, no tailor accustomed to ultra smart patronage will advise anything but the simplest and quietest of costumes. The hall- mark of good cloth, a good cut and a good fit, should distingish a cycling habit, for that is really what it is and not a fancy costume 2s some treat it. We can never overpraise the voiles or veilings of this season. For beauty of fabric, and the quality of always looking well, together with their beautiful dyes, we are enthusiastic. Blues, verging on the depth of sapphire tones are having such success, and are worn with such 71 marked becomingness by blonde and brunette. Inset with pure white, or écru laces, they are at their best. Mrs. C O——looks charming in hers, with its pliss¢ underskirt and shawl-shape overdress, on the edge of which is an irregular Renaissance border inset to per- fection. On the bodice a low collarette, en- tirely of lace, tells effectively with a white ling- erie stock and chemisette. A blue straw hat with blue tulle around the crown, blue wheat bunched up at the side, and shaded yellow poppies, the ensemble is most pleasing, bring- ing out the dark hair and brilliant coloring of the handsome wearer to greatest advantage. There is a surfeit of separate waists, about which one hesitates to add a single word ; but, where a new and odd combination does attract the eye, it may not be uninteresting to mention it to those who like to get a new idea for so convenient a demi-toilette convenience. An order for three had just been completed, where it turned out a piece of good fortune to have them taken out of their tissue paper wrappings and shown. The first was of cream-white silk with open fronts laid in bias tucks, while the flat back was tucked crossways—the same clus- ters and spaces observed—and the long sleeves following suit. Double vests were set in the fronts. The one next the waist itself, showing that it was built of white organdie, plaided in broken mauve lines, and laid over with white silk. Next to it, one of mauve taffeta with fringed edges, for these vests do not fasten, but lie open like revers, and turn into the centre front. Underneath, but invisible, was an in- side finish of white lawn. . Jeweled pins keep these little vests in place, and dress them up at the same time. Very much the same idea was carried out on the second waist, which was also of white taffeta, but tucked differently, and in- stead of a mauve organdie vest, had one in black and white substituted—an uncommonly pretty batiste with the effect of black lace in stripes. For centre vest stripes of black taffeta, and instead of a fringe, ruffles of narrow Cluny lace. The surface of the silk was dotted with white lace wafers, size of a pea, sewed on sep- arately. This produced a delightful effect, and this bodice was unique and charming. The stock repeated this dotted effect with other lace ornaments in the back. The third one was more dressy than the other two, built of yellow taffeta, that real primrose yellow, soft, yet brilliant in tone. The tucks were of ling- gerie fineness, and ran lengthwise front and back, crossways on the long sleeves. The fronts were open, and the same double vest effects were repeated, but with this difference, that instead of organdie the vest next the bodice was of the lightest velvet—a plaid on the bias, where red, orange, black and white were beau- tifully blended. The second vests were of exquisite mull embroidery inset with lace, laid over black mousseline de soie, and again over black taffeta. The stock repeated this vest combination with additions of diamond buckles and narrow black velvet bows. The wrist flare was overlaid with lace, and held by velvet bows and small buckles to match the stock. A separate skirt to wear with this waist and sent with it, was a beauty. Built of white silk organdie over a white silk petticoat and one of chiffon. Inset around the bottom was a deep lace flounce, vertical tucking on the upper por- tion. Attached was a black mousseline sash, its long ends cut into long leaf points, which were finely tucked crosswise and ruched with

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(Continued from page 71.) double narrow black lace. The dainty grace and the charm of color as well as the chic ex- pression of the whole cannot have full justice done except by personal inspection, for there is that in the texture, and the blending of one material with another, and the general effect which words fail to convey exactly. (From Our Own Correspondent. ) THE MEMORY OF THE DEAD EMPRESS LINGERS ONLY IN THE HEARTS OF THE POOR— LOVELINESS OF VIENNESE WOMEN WITHSTANDS THE ASSAULTS OF TIME—PRINCESS METTER- NICH’S ECCENTRIC ROBE —SWAN’S-DOWN MUSLIN -_"s recent illness of the Emperor has caused many people to whisper among themselves about the possibility of a new disaster overtaking the Viennese court. To be sure, one is forced to confess that we are at last learning the ways of our generation, and that we get over our sorrows with an alac- rity which can be termed nothing short of heartless. It is not a year since that grand woman, Empress Elizabeth, was laid to rest in the Church of the Capuchins, and yet the upper-ten has, if not quite forgotten, at least allowed this short interval of time to greatly dim the remembrance of one who should be unforgettable. The humble mountaineers, whom the Empress used to visit every sum- mer, mourn for her; the poor, who were her constant care, miss her sorely. But what of the gay society butterflies who were wont to consider a nod or a smile coming from her as greata boon? Why, they have resumed the joy of existing in a pampered atmosphere of continual pleasures, and seldom, if ever, does a thought of their murdered sovereign come flitting into their shallow brains to mar the enjoyment of the moment. I often wonder whether it is the peculiarly delightful climate of our own dear country which preserves women in all the glory of their beauty long after it would seem natural tor them to retire to the ranks of ripened matrons. It is amazing to meet every day lovely grand- mothers who look like mere girls, and who have retained the bloom of their twenty-fifth year without any apparent help from cosmetics or ‘*traitéments pour la beauté.”’ It is, nev- ertheless, a fact that I come daily into contact with women who, when I first made my début at court, twenty-three years ago, were already the mothers of almost grown-up children, but who to day, notwithstanding this, could easily declare that they are not thirty, and be be- lieved ! Princess Pauline Metternich, never a pretty woman even in her palmiest days, was and is among the most admired and sought- after of brilliant feminine figures, both here and in Paris. So extraordinarily youthful in manner and even in looks is she that no one would dream of guessing her age or any- thing approaching it. At the Flower Corso, which she organized a while ago, and which was so complete a success, she was the merri- est of the merry throng crowding the Prater. Her lavender robe, covered with painted hya- cinths, and her tiny bonnet, composed of the VOGUE same flowers, were miracles of exquisite ele- gance, admirably framed by the carriage, full of golden sunflowers, in which she had taken her place. Her inimitable style is unimpaired, and the taste which she displays in the matter of dress is unique. Anything quainter than her appearance dur- ing the Féte de Village, which she planned and carried through at the Prater-Stern, it is im- possible to imagine, and no other woman could have worn such a costume as she did on the opening day without being accused of masquer- ading. Her long, flowing gown was of white satin adorned with the iris flowers, leaves, buds, nay even roots—the latter forming a curious looking fringe at the bottom of the skirt— having been pressed into service for the nonce. -This singular decoration was half veiled by the fluttering folds of a black gauze, wing-like mantle, bordered with whole flights of dragon- flies, a gigantic insect of the same species hover- ing above her brow, in guise of a hat nestling amid the velvety petals of correspondingly co- lossal irisses, both yellow and purple. I can easily realize that after wearing so much black our mondaines should now feel a certain delight in draping their fair figures in the diaphanous folds of azure, rose, maize, or spring-green—which colors are the furore of the hour when veiled by cascades of precious laces ; but, still, as I remarked at the begin- ning of this letter, it grates upon my nerves to see the dainty tints of half-mourning so com- pletely superseded by gay hues of that kind. There are certainly several of our court beau- ties who have the good taste to take advantage of the vogue which pure white enjoys this summer, to gradually relinquish sable garments, without doing so too pointedly, and they are, indeed, well advised, for nothing could be more perfect than the snowy frocks which I admired a few days ago at the races of the Freudenau. There were especially some white piqué riding habits, which were above all praise, accompa- nied as they were, or rather completed, by white patent leather boots, white Tyrolese hats and white suéde gloves. The riding-crop was also in every case of pure white lacquered thorn —a great novelty—tipped with silver and fin- ished off at the upper end by a tiger-paw of silver studded with small brilliants, the effect produced being invariably charming. The prettiest of all materials for summer gowns is the so-called swan’s-down muslin, an English importation to our land, which is creating quite a sensation. It is a soft silken sort of stuff, the web of which is almost tulle-like, and it is covered with a fuzzy mass of down, imitating that of the breast of a swan. Light as a feather, and cool as the sheerest batiste, it still gives the impression of being both rich and graceful beyond compare, far more so in fact than any heavy brocade or velvety plush could be. Moreover it gives the wearer of a frock built therefrom the appear- ance of a refreshing-looking cluster of newly fallen snowflakes. No trimming of any kind is allowable with swan’s-down muslin; the material is merely made up over rustling silk, flounced at the bottom of the skirt with lace, so as to uphold the fabric whose only defect is to be easily too clinging. Baroness Walsee. Vienna, July, 1899. Readers inquiring names of shops where articles mentioned in Vogue are purchasable should always enclose a stamped and addressed envelope fer reply. 74 GLIMPSES THaT— Newport's nursery wicker wagonettes, pony led, are ablaze with red hats. The little men and women within, in their spotless white wash frocks, are wearing red felt or red straw hats, with turn-over pique collars to match. Occa- sionally the nursery parade shows up in white, with hats and collars in navy-blue ; but if hats were counted, the preponderance would surely be in favor of red. W HEN— These little cherubs are in full dress, all white is de rigueur. Baby girls in big Pari- sian capelines, quaint and picturesque; the little men in white duck sailor uniforms, white cravats and white hats. AT The morning concerts at the Casino the most stunning white princesse models, em- broidered in elaborate designs, perfect dreams of loveliness, are worn with enviable grace, the gliding step, walking over the velvety green turf, accomplished to a charm. Half the smartness of a gown depends upon the way the feet move, now that skirts are built en traine. SucH— Smart hats as are worn on these dressy forenoon occasions! A white chip capeline, turned-down brim, crush of white crépe shir- rings under the brim. Crown hidden under a big long-looped wheel bow of rose-pink taf- feta, stitched on each edge. Pink silk para- sol, tucked border to match exactly, made of . the same taffeta as the bow evidently, and car- ried like a long-stemmed rose in the right hand, gloved in white. Adorable picture— the wearer such a beauty ! TuRNING— Towards a tailor-made white piqué, fit- ting like a glove, consisting of a skirt and an exquisitely cut Eton, you lose your heart at once under the spell of another style of beauty. You see a lingerie stock and its front, a faultless confection. A brilliant turquoise taffeta cravat and belt to match. A white chip Marquise hat turned up on both sides, bound with black velvet, has white pompons. Turquoise blue parasol of the same taffeta, perfectly plain but mounted in ivory, both long stick and frame points. This figure glides with grace enchanting, but her tailor- made skirt is something shorter than the prin- cess traine, and her very well-fitting black patent leather ties are perceptible. IT Will hardly be possible to find in the shops before the autumn importations the latest cry in Paris veiling, which consists of a wide gauze scarf, one-half of which is dotted with chenille while the other half is plain and sheer. The dots are intended to be worn over the face while the plain gauze shrouds the flowers or feathers which trim the hat. Only those who run over to Paris annually to fit themselves out for say the Newport season can hope to enjoy this exclusive novelty during the summer months. “ex ~— Dd w®

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—— = — Ae SS Pe ISS TL Te ; i i {[Note—Readers of Vogue inquiring names of shops where articles are purchasable should enclose stamped and addressed envelope for reply, and state page and date. See illustrations on page 76.] F ever there is a time when a woman wants pretty shoes and stockings the summer is that time, when airy ‘filmy frocks blow and frisk with every breeze, and one’s feet can not consequently help but be more or less con- spicuous. Colored stockings the shade of the gown worn are, if not exactly good style, most effec- tive, and when worn with tan or patent leather shoes they look very pretty. For $1.33 there are handsome black silk drawn ribbed stock- ings with colored bars of silk running around. These bars come in brilliant blue, green, yel- low or pale tints. Then there are the very effective openwork stockings in a good quality of lisle for 45 cents and 50 cents a pair. Bath stockings made of heavy plain black VOGUE silk, extra length, are also selling for $1.35 and for $1.50, and $2.50 is the price of silk stock- ings and tights combined. Remnants of lace are so reduced at one of the shops that they are almost being given away. For instance,a most elaborate black Chantilly basket design that sold early in the season for $2.98 a yard is now offered for 75 cents, and other handsome laces for appliqué designs are equally and appeal- ingly cheap. And the lace frocks—well, don’t ask about them unless you are willing to spend your money, for the choicest of chiffon inlet with the finest Chantilly is begging to be bought at $22, marked down from $75 for the reason that it is a little (so little that I could not dis- cern it) shop worn. They are selling them out to make room for the autumn stock and way below cost I should fancy. Deep écru lace skirts and material for bod- ices are to be had from about $22 or $23 up. Also the spangled frocks—all, all are sunk to earth in price. Laces recently marked at $5 are selling for 76 $1.50, and so on. It is truly a season of bar- gains and if one can afford it such chances should not be missed, but bought and put away for future use. Silks, too, are very cheap. I found lovely white taffeta for 72 cents a yard that is quite handsome enough in quality for frocks and appliquéd with some of the bar- gain Chantilly laces an effective gown could be turned out for very little. Hat pins with either crystal tops or cut ame- thyst set in little rhinestones are to be had for 50 cents each. Admiral revers of blue piqué or pink are just 15 cents each and although their smart day has departed they are clean and dainty to a summer tailor suit, and on a well groomed woman a touch of that sort always looks wel] whether it be grand chic or not. I do not ad vocate always dropping a thing just because it has become too popular—things should stand a bit more on their own merit. Then there are the sunshades—such pretty ones all corded for $1.98 in lovely tints, espe- cially the mauves and deep purples ; still the brilliant greens are not to be slighted and when

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> “— =... = —_— ee yw we tPF oe carried with an all-white toilette save for the belt and stockings of the same shade they are distinctly smart and give one the impression that the woman who carries it knows what she is about. For $1 white parasols with pretty colored borders may be bought. The reason of the cheapness is that the white part is streaked as they have been used in the windows—but listen ! First buy your parasol then some gaso- line and start to work. It will not take long and the result will be that you have something for almost nothing. Pongee parasols will always be effective for seashore use, because they stand the wear and tear of sun and dampness, and for $1.98 a very good one may be owned. These are only the absurdly cheap ones I have told of; more elaborate things are also to be had proportion- ately low. Next on my list I find lingerie, and for very little a dainty outfit is to be had. Corset-covers for $2.25 are fine and pretty, reaching just to the waist and tying with a ribbon run through the sheer organdie. Inser- tions of Valenciennes are inlet, slanting across the front, and the top is finished with beading and a lace ruffle. Drawers range in thin lawn, with deep ruffles of lawn and lace insertions alternating, from $1 up. Those for $2.50 are very pretty with their diamond-shaped insertions and ribbons, tying at the side, run through embroidery beading. Petticoats, lace-trimmed—that is, with a deep knee flounce inlet with rows of insertions and edged with a three-inch lace ruffle—are as cheap at either $2.25 or $2.50: I can’t at the moment remember which. Very handsome affairs are to be owned for about $5. I have been all over town, and in no shop have I found such values in lingerie. The sketch shows, for $25, a smart little taffeta cape made with scalloped ruffles, each scallop trimmed with quillings of a slightly deeper shade satin ribbon. The yoke is also trimmed with satin ribbons, and the high collar is lined with chiffon, and little touches of chif- fon appear in the yoke. Very dainty is the wrapper like the draw- ing ; price, $13.75. The back is Watteau, while the front hangs free and is to be belted in with the satin ribbons that come from either side. The yoke is tucked, and at the shoul- der is a jabot of mull, lace-trimmed. Long sleeves are finished at the hands with a lace frill, and the neck is finished with pink-ribbon stock collar. A plain hat of gray felt costs $3.75, and for damp days at the sea or roughing it just such a hat will be most useful. The eagle’s quills are almost impossible, as tout le populace have adopted them. They are so uniform that they are almost a livery; so if such a hat is to be worn take out the quill. Some of the smart hatters are winding about the crown sides scarfs and a fly at one side, just peeping above, gives a pretty touch. An odd belt buckle like the sketch is to be bought for $5. It consists of loops of tar- nished French gilt. Paste buckles always hold their own and $5 is really very little to pay for a charming design such as the drawing. Buttons on chains made of enamel I can't resist mentioning again; they are such pretty little things and so cheap—only $1. Suéde leather belts for $2.50 are really smart. The FOR **DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS’’ SEE ANOTHER PAGE VOGUE buckles are heavy and there is an attractive break in the leather at each side fastened with stripes corresponding with the buckles. Gray, tan and black are the colors. Price, $2.50. »The dearest little traveling clock is just like the sketch. A small leather case of either red or green or white covers the clock except for the face. Price only $1.65 and time guaran- teed. For useful pocket-books there is noth- ing so serviceable or smart as pig-skin with harness lettering, in either a monogram or single letters. The books can now be had for 98 cents and three large letters for about $2.50.

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er ans ; = Be a. ee LE S| SO: Ea te ee ee a + x ee foe att Rage ma Note. Books are selected for review in Vogue chiefly with regard to the interest they have for its readers. Inquiries addressed to Vogue’ concerning the entertaining or instructive quajities of new pub- lications will receive immediate attention.] THE SILVER CROSS BY 8 RR. KEIGHTLEY. DODD, MEAD AND COM- PANY Dventurous hero, inventive chronicler: the result a tale to captivate the fancy of those who love stories of action dashed with danger and mystery. The opening scene is sufficiently romantic and pic- turesque. Forth sallies the hero on the stroke of eleven, rapier in hand, hid under his cloak. Darkness and a fine close rain presage adven- ture. He goes out to meet a fair one by ap- pointment, and his temporary undoing pro- ceeds therefrom. An incident in the career of the hero, who, by the way, is a person of an ill-repute, compounded of excessive gal- lantry and debt-incurring, shows the quality of his adventures. He has forced his pres- ence, acting on orders, upon a man in the habit of frequenting a certain hotel, After some preliminary talk, M. de Fontanges saw that the moment had arrived to put into action his plans against his unsuspecting inter- locur: **T arranged the plan of campaign in an instant. His cloak and sword hung over the back of his chair, the arms of which impeded his freedom of movement; he had evidently not the least suspicion in the world, and though we were seated some paces apart, I could easily lay my hand on his right arm. He drew some papers from his breast, one of which he replaced with the same meaning smile that I had so much disliked, and then spread the others open before him. He bent his head over them and followed the words with his finger. * * * ‘* Arresting his hand I leaned across the table upon my elbow and rose to my feet. It was done naturally, but it was done effectively. Before he knew what I had done, I was lean- ing over him and apparently following the names upon the paper, but—and fortunately he had no suspicion—with my left hand I was loosening the cloak that hung over the back of the chair. I noticed that the handwriting was identical with that in my note, but that did not surprise me and 1 felt that I had just now other matters of importance to engage my attention. ‘¢¢ The list is by no means complete,’ I said after a pause, and feeling that I was ready for the supreme moment. ‘ You have still a great deal more to learn.’ * “In what way ?’ ‘¢ ¢ Why, in this way, monsieur.” ** Upon my honor it was as good as a scene in a play, and done so easily that it surprised myself. Before he could wink I had seized him with my right hand by the throat and drawn the cloak tightly over his head. Then I flung myself bodily upon him, and while he struggled like a rat in a trap, we fell together heavily to the floor. Perhaps I might have been more careful of his person, but he fought so bitterly that I really could do no more. His head must have struck the corner of the chair, for when I knelt with my knee upon his chest, he became quite limp in my hands and I saw that he was unconscious, I had looked for a longer struggle; the task had been easy beyond my expectations, but this was only another stroke of good luck and my fortune was still running high. *¢]T ran to the door, unlocked it, and called to M. le Vicomte from the head of the stair. ***Hola! M. le Vicomte, the bird is trapped, Come and help me to pluck his feathers.” «J heard the clink of a glass several times repeated and then the sound of the Vicomte leisurely ascending the staircase. He had not been idle during my absence and Maitre Bonhommet’s wine must have suffered heavily. ‘¢« That Armagnac is an excellent wine,’ he said, ‘with the spirit of air and the per- fume of flowers. Positively we must bring . away some dozens of it—the little Silver Cross can manage that ?’ ‘6¢ We have got something to do first,’ I said. ‘ We must first tie up this gentleman.’ *¢ ©The gentleman—upon my honor I had forgotten him. He is not at all likely to catch cold—you appear to have taken excel- lent care of him. Why not allow him to remain there?’ *** You forget, M. le Vicomte,’ I said, ‘We have him upon our hands for a fort- night.’ “ ¢ Tete Dieu ! that will be an enormous ex- pense. Where do you propose to keep him ?’ “TI looked at him blankly when he put the question ; it was a matter that had never occurred to me, and‘ regarding which I had never thought of making ‘any arrangement. To bring him to my lodging was out of the question, and that Maitre Bonhommet would consent to my making use of his house for the purpose I thought very unlikely. , It was comparatively easy to catch my game, but to dispose of it seemed to present a greater diffi~ culty. ‘¢¢T had altogether overlooked that,’ I cried. ‘ Upon my word I don’t know.’ *¢¢ Ah!’ said the Vicomte imperturbably, ‘we shall probably find a place. In the meantime he does not make much noise. Not wt ** © No—merely stunned—an impracticable person who refused to submit to the inevitable. You know one must use a little force some- times.’ ‘¢¢ There is no use in striking unless you make yourself felt,’ said the Vicomte with gravity. ‘ And then he is only a lawyer.’ 6¢ ¢ That F *©*Do not distress yourself, my friend. You must leave the rest to me—I have an affection for the task. I will put a mortgage on his hands, another on his feet, and a writ of prohibition on his mouth, that will keep him silent till we make provision for him. Oh ! trust me, I will settle his affairs.” *¢ ‘But we must devise some means.’ *¢¢ In good time,’ cried Barrymore airily, ‘in good time. Let us first make the little fox secure.” “ With that object he went round the table and kneeling down beside the fallen lawyer drew the cloak from his face where I had still left it. He looked at him for a moment curiously, and with a puzzled ex- pression that I did not understand. Then he rose to his feet, looking alternately at me and at my prostrate antagonist, and then burst into a loud roar of uncontrolled laughter which continued for some time. ‘¢ © By the-chariots-of-Pharaoh !’ he cried, when he had somewhat recovered his breath, and immediately exploded again. I began to lose my temper and swore at the Armagnac with the green seal. ‘You appear to find it very amusing, M. de Barrymore,’ I said coldly. ‘ May I enquire wherein the jest consists ?’ ** He executed a little minuet and threw up his hands as though the end of the world had come. I was now really angry. ‘© You had better return to your bottle,’ I cried, ‘and leave me to finish this in my own way.” *€¢T should do that,’ he answered still laughing, ‘if I had the wisdom of a giddy butterfly, but, on my faith as a gentleman, I must see how this jest ends. It inspires—it intoxicates me, and I would not have missed it for the glorious kingdom of Ulster. By the way, de Fontanges, you are sure you made no mistake ?’ *¢¢T made no mistake—he had received my letter and expected me.’ *¢¢ Your letter?’ *¢ © Well—Shade of a shade, Vicomte, what is the matter? Do you know this— person?” ‘¢¢Oh, intimately—at a distance. you see he is not exactly a—lawyer.’ The Vicomte’s mirth was certainly ill- timed and provoking. ** © Who and what is he then?’ “ «Tf have no doubt,’ said the Vicomte more gravely. ‘heis a friend of your lady with the lawsuit. My dear Fontanges, that woman must be the devil. Now ask me no further questions, but help to make him safe, for you have gone so far that you can’t turn back now.’”” But / 78 THE QUELETZU ** Now the first bird that sang on earth was the Quelétzi.’’—Mexican Mythology. P in the air, i Like a spirit in prayer, With the wings of a dove and the heart of a rose, And a bosom as white as the Zaraby snows, When the hurricane blows, In the light of the day, Like a soul on its way To the gardens of God, it was loosed from the earth ; And the song that it sang was a pwan of mirth For the raptures of birth. The song that it sang Like an echo out-rang From the cloud to the copse, and the copse to the cloud ; And the hills and the valleys responded aloud— And the rivers were proud. If you think of the rush Of the wind and the flush Of a morning in May when the sun is in view, You will know what is meant by the flight from the dew Of the first Quelétzi, If you think of these things, You will dote on the wings Of the wonderful bird in its upward career ; And the legends thereof will be sweeter to hear Than the songs of a seer. You will know what is meant By the pinioned ascent Of an angel of grace when its mission is done ; And the knowledge of this will be second to none Which the ages have spun. For the lark in its nest Is a minstrel at best, And the music it makes is the mirth of a kiss That is flung to the skies in a frenzy of bliss On the morning’s abyss. And the nightingale’s note Is a sob from its throat, And the gurgle thereof is a rapture of pain ; For the roses are sad,—and the lilies com- plain, — When the silence is slain. All the larks in the world With their feathers unfurled, And the nightingales, too, in their tender despair, — All the birds that we know have a sorrow to share With the natives of air. But the first Quelétzi, When it sprang to the blue, Had the heart of a rose and the wings of a dove ; And the song that it sang to the angels above Was the music of love. Eric Mackay, ON THE BOOK COUNTER ING OR KNAVE,. Aw Otp Tate K or Hucurnot Days, By Wittiam Henry Jounson. Littre, Brown AND Company, The theme of Mr. John- son’s work is the love of King Henry of Navarre for Gabrielle d’Estrées, one of the most beautiful women of history, and the author has succeeded in writing a very reada- ble story. For those who would like to know something of the real Gabrielle, it may be said that she was the daughter of the Marquis d’Estrees, a devoted adherent of the King of Navarre, who educated Gabrielle according to the approved fashion of the day. Among her accomplishments was that of being a fine horsewoman. King Henry met the beauti- ful girl at her father’s house—the Chateau de Ceeuvres, near Soissons, and loved her at first sight and ever afterwards. Gabrielle was not only lovely in appearance, but she w moreover, natural in her manners, and intel, ligent without any pretension to learning, the only book found in her library being her livys d’ heures. GILES INGILBY. By W. E. Noray, Drexet Bipvte, This author’s books ar simply stories in which no attempt is made to present social problems. In the presen instance Giles Ingilby, the hero is dowereif with the poetic temperament, and fortunately he succeeds with his poems, and in time becomes a celebrity. He woos a divinity after the manner of prosaic men, but whether his suit succeeds or not it would be unfair ty set forth here. THE STORY OF ‘THE BRITISH RACE. By Joun Munroz, D. Aprretoy AND Company. Of late years the anthropolo. gists have been throwing a search-light on the real nature of the British people in orde; to trace the pedigree of a nation which ha affected life and literature for ages, In thi; convenient volume, which belongs to the Library of Useful Stories, the important re. sults of these modern studies, and the views of the specialists are presented with a view of placing them before the laity in convenient and easily comprehended form. There is an excellent introduction which is followed by chapters on the European Race, the Pioneers of Britain, the English and Welsh, English and Welsh Types, The Scotch, Scottish Types, The Irish, Irish Types, The Celtic Fringe, and the Celtic Renaissance. It is made clear that the Celt, the Teuton, the Frank, etc., are each a composite of various individualities—much as is the case with our elastic designation ** American.” Very aptly the author says: ‘*Speaking roughly, it may be said that in spite of their different names and languages, the nations of Europe, especially of the middle and west, are com- posed of the like racial elements in differing proportions as the pattern of a cloth, even to its fringe, is woven of the same yarn. Only here and there does a peculiar type, such as the Basques of the Pyrenees or the Lapps of Norway, show itself like an alien thread. Only in a few isolated spots have any of the primitive types remained in comparative purity. Yet the variety of individual types is as bewildering to any one ignorant of anthro- pology as the vegetation of a tropical forest to the novice in botany.”’ Mr. Munroe also draws attention to a fact which the genealogist, as well as the anthro- pologist, always overlooks: ‘** Each of us, supposing none of our progenitors to have in- termarried with relatives, would have had at about the Norman Conquest upwards of a hundred million direct ancestors of that gen- eration, and, if we add the intermediate an- cestors, double that number. As each indi- vidual has a male and female parent, we have only to multiply by two for each thirty years, the average duration of a generation, and it will give the above result.”’ ** Whether we know it or not,’’ continues Mr. Munroe, ‘‘all of us have patrician as well as plebeian ancestors, famous or infamous in their degree. . . . When we take into account the general mixture of races through- out the country, and the continual diffusion of types, we cannot escape the conclusion that every member of the nation is a more or less complex result of all the racial elements which are common toit, He may not reveal the fact in his person, even to the skilled eye of the anthropologist, who is trained to dis- tinguish the physical traits of one race from those of another, He may not show it in his behavior, even to an expert in character. You may take him for a pure Saxon or Norse- man, as the case may be, and yet he is proba- bly as mixed in race as one who betrays the diversity of his origin by his physiognomy. This deceitfulness of appearances, whether in look or character, arises from the double tendency of mixed races to combine with new or intermediate types, and also to reproduce the ancestral types.” Communications must be signed with the name and address of the sender. Ne others will receive consideration with a view to publication. DE the | of la strip tuck pale Little black Fig with bunck Irish tucke: tucks At th velvet a sail

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at she wa 3, and intel! earning, the ng her livre E. Noray. ; books are apt is made the present is doweredf fortunately id in tim a divinity yut whether be unfair to BRITISH APPLEToy anthropolo. ch-light on ple in order which ha s. In thi “gs to the \portant re- 1 the view h a view of convenient jon which pean Race, nglish and 'ypes, The rish, Irish the Celtic he Teuton, e of various case with ‘eh g roughly, ir different of Europe, are com- n differing th, even to mm. Only pe, such as e Lapps of on thread, any of the om parative ual types is of anthro- al forest to mn to a fact he anthro- ch of us, 0 have in- ave had at ards of a that gen- \ediate an- each indi- t, we have irty years, jon, and it continues atrician as r infamous take into s through- | diffusion conclusion a more or 1 elements not reveal skilled eye ed to dis- race from w it in his character. .or Norse- e is proba- etrays the slognomy. vhether in he double with new reproduce ned with der. Ne ym with a DESCRIPTIONS OF FASHIONS Ig. 5805. White organdie forenoon frock F with two little ruffles edged with lace put ontheskirt in points. Bodice fastens down the back and is covered in front with insertions of lace and tucking. Down the sleeves is one strip of lace bordered at either side with tucking, collar of lace and organdie worn over pale pink, and the belt is made the same way. Lert Ficure—Effective black and white organdie made circular skirt. back and square yoke of white lace and tucking. Little hat* of pale pink straw trimmed with black tips. Fig. 5806—White taffeta shirt, made with wee tucks running across, grouped in bunches of eight. The yoke is formed of Irish point insertion, joined with narrow tucked strips of white silk, lined between the tucks with narrowest black velvet ribbon. At the base of this yoke is a lattice of the velvet, Deep revers, ending in the back in a sailor collar, are treated with insertion bands, and about the edge is a two-inch band of tucking, with narrow lattice above. High latticed collar divided in the middle with a couple of tucks. Fig. 5809—Odd bodice of pale green ribbed silk. Revers and vest of heavy taffeta silk, covered with stitching. The high collar flares at the top and fastens over to one side. Sleeves reach far over the hand in a point. Worn with a white cheviot serge skirt, the The silk slip is pink and shows through the lace, which is cut from beneath. The bodice fastens to one side with a jabot of gray chiffon in lieu of buttons. Shallow round yoke is made of gray batiste fir ly corded; little quil- lings of chiffon are used for outlining. Lace caps appears at the top of the sleeves defined with the cording. Black straw hat trimmed with black maline pompons, Black velvet girdle fastened with a rosette and a long end TWO ORGANDIES in the centre. the skirt show the white through. with white lace bow-knots. Large black straw hat trimmed with feathers. effect and style is very smart. Hat of fancy white straw braid, with bird-of-paradise aigrette at one side and white silk folds. Fig. 5814—Cool wrapper of pale pink or- gandie made over an India silk foundation. Side-plaited ruffles are attached to the organdie collar with lace insertion. Fig. 5817—Afternoon costume of gray French batiste entirely covered with lace ap- pliqué. Around the top of the fitted flounce 1s an insertion band and above that another. e of black lisse trimmed at the bottom with écru lace and insertions completes this very effective frock. Fig. 5823—White dotted swiss frock for a little girl, Insertions of pretty Valenciennes and a full flounce at the bottom. On the bodice the strips of insertion run lengthwise. Deep lace collar. Fig. 5824— White piqué gown for a little girl of eight. The embroidery yoke is the only trimming. Fig. 5827— Wash frock of percale embroid- ery trimmed. Deep guimpe of tucked India linen. Fig. 5832—Summer gown of tucked ba- tiste inset with écru lace. Bow and collar ruff of pale green chiffon. Green silk para- sol with white batiste cover, and ruffle of green chiffon. Hat of coarse white straw trimmed with green leaves and chiffon. Fig. 5833—Fancy bodice of light blue taf- Bodice buttoned down the Bonnet of white lace caught with paste buckle Two black tips stand high at the back. Ricut Ficure—Black silk organdie frock made over white silk foundation. The many little ruffles up The bodice and overskirt are made over black and appliquéd Guimpe of white lace and a generous bow-knot is seen on the bodice. feta. The fronts are made of alternate rows of tucked taffeta and guipure insertion fas- tened with alternate tabs of plain silk finished with tiny gold buttons. Lace cravat with the ends slipped under the tabs. Fig. 5834—Afternoon gown of white taf- feta en princesse, trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbon and fine guipure. Hat of white Neapolitan corded with black velvet, and trimmed with black and white ostrich plumes and white chiffon rosettes, i

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ee ae et eee — TE ae ie fa BAN, Py VOGUE'S WEEKLY PATTERN NUMBER 23 3 AUG., 1899 1H ame does not publish patterns as a rule. The exception is one pattern a week as described in detail on this page. The coupon printed on this page must be sent with the remittance for pattern. He pattern for this week is for a driv- I ing or traveling dust coat. The pattern consists of the following pieces: Back, side form, underarm piece, front, rever, collar, and two sleeve parts. The only trimming is stitching in the same color as the material, or contrasting. This coat is most useful for driving when it is dusty, as being light and made without a lining; it is not warm, and protects light gowns of organdie or silk which are usually elaborately trimmed from becoming ruined with dust, when driving to club teas, summer luncheons, etc. It can also be worn for traveling. The seams are bound with silk to match, or if the coat be of silk the same ma- terial. MATERIALS > Sag coat looks well in dark blue or brown mohair, in blue, brown, green or tan taffeta silk, and in pongee. The bottoms are of pearl, smoked, fancy or plain as fancy dictates. If mohair you will require 8 yards; if silk 15 yards. WHISPERS TO THE GIRL WITH NOTHING A YEAR Simpie but effective gown which can A be made at small expense is of black batiste flecked with white. The skirt is five-gored, the only trimming being a series of bow-knots with four loops, made of inch and a half white footing, and appliquéd on to the skirt about eight inches from the bottom. The bow-knot directly in front be- ing the largest, the one at the back the smallest, the ones on the sides intermediate; the plain blouse bodice was fastened in the back with small flat white lace buttons. The tops of the sleeves and front were trimmed with bow-knots like those on the skirt, but only having two loops and two ends. The knots on the sleeves were of course smaller than the one in front. With this gown was worn a crush collar and belt of pistache green panne velvet or taffeta silk, and a silver neck- lace with large semi-precious stones pendant. A most useful little corset cover to wear with décolléte gowns is made without shoul- der straps, fitting the figure tightly under the arms, being held in place by a ribbon run in the top; also one at the waist line. A pretty model is made of alternate bands of dimity and Valenciennes insertion, faced at the top with dimity, in which a ribbon is run, and the edge finished with narrow lace matching the insertion. They are also pretty made of tucked nainsook, lace edged. An effective touch of color is given a plain black gown of net, grenadine or silk, by the addition of a velvet wired bow made of pale yellow, pistache green and peony red, a loop of each with ends of all, which are twisted together, made long enough to reach from the left side, where the bow is placed, to the belt in a diagonal line. The belt and collar are of black. Pretty, convenient, ornamental and sweet are the new sachet bodice-holders, which are nothing more than a wire coat-hanger, such as are used by men for their ‘coats, with thé ends covered with a sheet of scented cotton- batting rolled about the wire, and this, in turn, covered with silk bags. Three-inch ribbon, sewed up on the sides and fringed at the top, is the easiest method of covering. Pull these bags on over the cotton and tie in the middle, either side of the hook, with baby ribbon to match. These hangers serve a double purpose: that of keeping your bod- ices in shape and sweetly scented. When the sachet powder loses its odor, remove the silk covering, shake out the powder and put in fresh, For the girl who is fond of embroidery a pretty idea is to choose a flower and embroider it on your lingerie in the natural color, using ribbon to match. A violet, and violet ribbon; a rose bud, a pink ribbon ; a daisy, and white ribbon, etc. This marking is just as useful as letters and more ornamental, unless the initials are hand embroidered, and well done. Pretty lounging robes for summer can be made from some of the dainty challies with white grounds scattered with flowers in deli- cate shades of pink. A pretty model is illus- trated on page vi, No. 5775, Vogue 6 July. It is not necessary to have it opened on the sides, showing an elaborate petticoat, as does the illustration. A trimming of quilled rib- a weight on top to press, and set it in a cool place until wanted. GINGERBREAD witH Cocoanut, — Put eighteen ounces of flour into a bowl and mix with eight ounces of moist sugar, one ounce of powdered ginger. Imto a saucepan put half a pound of butter and a pound of mo- lasses, beat together, pour into the flour and sugar and beat well together, let it cool and add seven ounces of grated, or prepared cocoa- nut. Beat again, put the mixture in small cakes on a buttered baking pan, and bake slowly for about three-quarters of an hour. Pineaprpce Meaincue.—Take a medium- sized pineapple, cut in small pieces, put in a VOGUE'S WEFKLY PATTERN—NO. 23, DUST COAT For description see this page. Cut paper pattern No. 23 sent on receipt of coupon on this page with remittance of fifty cents, bon in three shades of pink is also pretty as a trimming, using lace at the throat and wrists, running the ribbon down either side of the front and around the bottom. A fancy collar of the material edged with ribbons is a pretty addition, when a lace collar is not used. FOR THE HOSTESS Ressep Cuicxen.—Into a saucepan with P a little water put a chicken; boil until the bones slip out. Take the chicken out; remove the bones, skin and grisette. Pick the meat in small pieces, mixing the white and dark together. Skim the fat off the liquor, season with pepper, salt and celery salt, boil until reduced to half a pint, when mix it with the meat, Butter a mould, dec- orate the bottom with truffles, hard-boiled eggs or mushrooms, pack in the chicken, set 80 preserving pan with a half pound of sugar, and half a pint of water, stir until it is reduced to a thick syrup. Put a pint anda half of milk into another saucepan, when it comes to a boil, put in the trimmings of the pineapple, let it steep. for ten minutes. Beat the yolks of ten eggs, strain the milk into them gradu- ally stirring, then pour the mixture back into the saucepan and stir over the fire until thick, but do not let boil. Press this through a fine sieve into a bowl and mix the pineapple syrup with it. When cool put in a freezer and freeze. Put the frozen cream in a plain mould, pack in salt and ice. Boil four ounces of sugar to the sixth degree, and whip the whites of five eggs to a stiff froth, mix with the sugar and leave until cold. Turn the ice into a cold dish, pour over it the meringue, put in a hot oven to set just a moment, take out and serve at once. Wuire Puncu.—A very delicate and de- licious punch may be made with three bottles of California sauterne, one bottle of rye whiskey, half a bottle of chartreuse and a very ‘little sugar, Just before serving add cracked ice and three bottles of club soda and a little fruit a few raspberries, preserved cher- ries or small bits of pineapple, the latter being preferable. Thisis an inexpensive punch and more unusual than claret. ToMAToEs AND JeLty.—Heat and strain a quart of canned tomatoes and add an ounce of dissolved gelatine. Salt to taste. Pour into small molds as near the shape of a tomato as possible. Earthen drop cake ‘molds do very well, Turn out when needed putting each one on a pretty white lettuce leaf. Cover par- tially with mayonnaise and stick a Tiny Tim pickle in the top to resemble a stem. Serve on a platter. NessecropE Puppinc.—Six eggs, one cup of powdered sugar, one wine glass rum, one pint of thick cream, chopped almonds, can- died cherries and macaroons. Beat the yokes of the egg and sugar for twenty minuted Beat the whites and the cream separately an.s then together for twenty minutes. After each mixture thickens, mix together. Add the fruit, etc., then the rum, and freeze. REQUESTS FOR PATTERNS Eaders of Vogue who desire special patterns published should send in their requests promptly. The pat- tern that isin most general demand will be published in preference to others. Up to this date the patterns published are : No. 1 Feb. 23 Louis xv. Jacket. No. 2 Mar. 2 Golf Cape. No. 3 Mar. 23 Appliqué Design. No. 4 Mar. 30 Drop Skirt. No. 5 April 6 Blouse Silk Waist. No. 6 April 13 Lace Guimpe. No. 7 April 20 Breakfast Jacket. No. 8 April 27 Shirt Waist. No. 9 May 4 No. ro May 11 No. 11 May 18 No. 12 May 18 Cloth Jacket. Golf Skirt. Light Summer Skirt. Light Summer Bodice of No. 11. Bathing Suit. Three Stock Collars. Little Boy’s Frock. Little Girl’s Dress. Eton Jacket. Fancy Shirt Waist. Tight Fitting Petti- coat, Ladies’ Blouse Waist. Three Corset Covers. A Three-piece Skirt with circular flounce. No. 13 May 25 No, 14 June 1 No. 15 June 8 No. 16 June 15 No, 17 June 22 No. 18 June 29 No. 19 July 6 No. 20 July 13 No. 21 July 20 No. 22 July 27 No. 23 Aug. Dust Coat. The next pattern will be No, 24 Aug. 10 A Tunic The yearly subscription price of Vogue is $4.00. Subscribers receive it regularly by mail. To get the full value of Vogue it should be read and studied week by week as a complete guide to fashion, VOGUE PATTERN COUPON To Vocus, 3 West 29TH StreEET, . New York, E[Nclosed please find fifty cents, for which send by mail to my address below : Vogue Pattern No. Published These patterns are made in medium size only. POR «6 gb acne vdcwingveiaaen os ND as ceases ceedhwdst Lb0be ee ee ee fe i This coupon must be filled in and mailed to Vogue, when remittance is made for pattern. ever, | you ¢ Somet times, presen stick le ways ! do exa I feel summ North used « Rem

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and de- e bottles of rye e and a ing add soda and ed cher- er being nch and strain a ounce of our into ymato as do very ng each ver par- iny Tim Serve one cup um, one ds, can- he yokes minuted ely an.s fter each Add the RNS special send in he pat- will be hed are: et. gn. aist, et. - Skirt. > Bodice ‘ollars. ock, ress. aist. Petti- Waist. overs. e Skirt flounce. | will be Vogue is larly by it should complete PON ET, s, for ddress eeeee RD NN Ne NN Nl el el or AS SEEN BY HIM cd wa* THE MAN WHO WOULD ATTAIN INFLUENCE MUST BE A COSMOPOLITE—DISTINCTIONS OF AMERICAN SOCIETY IGNORED IN LONDON——COATS OF ARMS RE- GARDED AS ABSURD AND OUT OF CHARACTER WHEN DISPLAYED BY AMERICANS——A MODEL MILLIONAIRE season. It is not only dull, but it is hot, muggy and depressing. How- ever, England is a land of easy distances and you can always get out into the country. Sometimes people wonder why I select such times, such seasons, as, for instance, the present, to go abroad. No one is as much a stickler for conventions as I am, but 1 have al- ways regarded it as more distinguished not to do exactly that which other people are doing. I feel that I can, if I should so wish it, pass a summer at the equator and a winter at the North Pole. The only trouble is that with I Ondon, just now, is very much out of civilization the world has grown so small that there is now little to conquer. Travel in modern days, deprived of its dangers and made possible to every one, has lost its charm. One finds very little amusement in that which everyone else can accomplish. To be somewhat original within conservative lines— that is what we should strive to accomplish, Men like George iv and his followers may be reviled and even preached at, but when we think that it is now eighty years since they were in their prime and one still almost remembers them, the conclusion is that they must have been something beyond the or- dinary. To have invented a new punch or a new style of hat or to have brought into the world a new fashion may seem to be a puerile achievement, but you have done something for mankind and your fame survives and you are not commonplace. It isalmost too warm and too uncomfort- able even to moralize, which by the way is not a very difficult occupation I stroll into a club at which a friend has put me up and find it empty. I made it a duty years ago to become a member of a good London Club. WE HAVE IMPORTED A NUMBER OF SPECIAL VICUNA AND CAMEL’S The one to which I belong is old-fashioned and one seldom reads of it, except when one finds; mention of it in the Peerage. It is not even on Pall Mall, seeking the more aris- tocratic seclusion of St. James Street. I am also put up at the Travelers, which is thoroughly cosmopolitan and where one may meet nearly every sovereign in Europe, or at any time rub elbows with a Duke—which I believe was one of the delights idealized by Thackeray. I have mentioned the Club for areason. I find that the first thing a man of power or influence should acquire, espe- cially if a greater mantle falls upon his shoul- ders as he grows in years, is to be an absolute cosmopolite. The world must be at his com- mand. It must yield to him its treasures, its wealth and its resources at his word. He must be absolutely devoid of all provincialism. In London he must be as one of those to whom the town stands waiting for his open sesame, New York society and its distinctions— and I quote New York as it is the representa- tive American city—mean no more in Lon- don than the family tree of a provincial > nee en rg koe 13 Udcl: Madison Square, lest HOSIER AND GLOVER TRAVELLING A VARIETY OF LARGE SCOTCH SHAWLS, ESPECIALLY FOR “GOING ABROAD’ PRICES RANGE FROM $10 TO $25 FRENCH SILK PAJAMAS: THESE SILKS ARE NEW IN THIS MARKET, ARE LIGHT WEIGHT AND DURABLE, THE COLOR EFFECT AND DESIGNS ARE SPECIAL. b , BATHING SUITS. PRICES FROM $5 TO $20 GOLF HOSE. HAIR TRAVELLING MARTIN’S UMBRELLAS signified to a blasé New York man, who fig- ured in that amusing skit on New York So- ciety, the name of which I forget. **She was a Miss Pinckney Calhoun of Charleston,’’ says the proud Southerner, and the very rude New York man answered with a suppressed yawn and a bored expression, ‘* That conveys to me no more than if she were a walrus from Baffins Bay.’’ If you can amuse and entertain people and are a gentleman and presentable, no one will know or care if you belong tothe exclusive Newport or any other American set. It means nothing. American family trees are regarded with much amusement and American coat of arms are considered absurd. Not that English people do not consider we are entitled to these things but because such manitestations of the spirit of caste are absolutely contrary to the spirit of Republican institutions. And yet we love a lord and bow before him and truckle to him far more than even the middle class Englishman. And how ridiculous it all is! The first step of a man of vast wealth and a man of absolute power—the terms are almost synonymous these days—must be to put away RUGS: +] AND YACHT USE. chapping and roughness. Invaluable for Shampooing Removes dandruff and relieves itching of the scalp Pure, mild, curative and the ideal toilet soap. Packer’s Tar Soap used daily for bathing, renders the skin soft and supple, and prevents THE PACKER MANUFACTURING CO,, NEW YORK purchasable should reply. Readers inquiring names of shops where articles mentioned in Vi ogue are stamped and addressed envelope for always enclose a

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Le Dore at, 2 Ce ee ST Se ae —2. we . — - = ee EE provincialism. He must be proud of his coun- try—and he ha; reason to be—but he must not try to pull down old traditions. He will find himself laughed at and he will retire from the field crabbed and disappointed. Money can command everything if tact and judgment are used in its dispensation. And it is be- cause so many persons lack these qualities that they make mistakes. I suppose I am not fitted for the discussion of affairs and these days in London are becom- ing too much for me. I have plans to make changes in my mode of living to consider, not because I have been dissatisfied with what has passed but because the future brings new obligations and all these various problems must be carefully considered. In cne way I shall carry out my plan of life which is simply to live for my own amusement. I shall be thoroughly cosmopolitan. In the next few weeks I shall be called upon to do many things. I have to go to Scotland and to Glasgow and look over plans for a new steam yacht. I am also asked to look at a shooting preserve, but this requires careful selection. These are but toys or straws and the serious part of life has yet to come before me. I remember a man at Newport telling me that he never knew what care was until he inherited twenty millions of dollars, which he said was a mere bagatelle, a drop in the bucket in comparison with the fortunes of others at Newport. He was but a pauper to them. Men have dropped in the traces, scheming how to invest these great fortunes. An heir apparent is in Paradise comparatively until he becomes king. I have before mea model millionaire. He is devoted to aquatics. He builds the finest yacht afloat, he subscribes liberally to cups for races, and becomes finan- cially interested in the races themselves. He cares for horses, he has a stable, and his breed- ing farms ase the best in the country, as well as in others, His heart is touched by the re- quirements of some charity or some church. He subscribes an amount which is a fortune in itself, and he does so on the spur of the moment. He has consulted no one. He leaves the impress of his individuality on all that he touches, and his donations and gifts stand out in as bold relief as the many ciphers which indicate his vast fortune. If he chose, and the Pontiff consented, he might rebuild the Vatican, or again bowing to the Italian government, he might restore the Coliseum and have again a revival, with restrictions, of the ancient games. His gifts are received everywhere with gratitude, his plans listened to with respect, He does not go into another country where he has financial interests also and antagonize the people. He keeps his birthright, but he becomes as one of them. He looks at the ménu of the world placed before him at the universal banquet table, and he calls for what he wants. It is brought to him The sense of that power, to be wielded with judgment, the sense of being indepand- ent of everyone, almost compensates for the additional weight of care. I undersstand the fascination of being a king and an emperor. To move living chessmen around, and with the nations of the earth play an unlimited game for vast stakes—there is boundless pleas- ure in the very idea. One cannot be emperor, one cannot be even king, but one can wield a power like unto them—but here is Meadows who tells me I have barely time to dress for dinner, and I cannot help smiling as the old adage that a man is never a king to his valet comes to my mind. WOMEN IN AQUATIC SPORTS YACHTSWOMEN, CANOEISIS AND SCULLERS CG = wheeling may be the foremost pastimes to appeal to the outdoor girl this summer ; but at the seaside, at least, yachting will come in a strong third to share the honors of the season’s sports, Yachting is an expensive sport compared with either of the foregoing, and its pleasures are not so universally courted by those who have not been reared near the water and know the sea in all its moods and changes. But for those who have once tasted the fascination of yachting, and have yielded to its dreamy, subtle pleasures, there is no release, even though the attractions of green fields and the jaunty costumes of the golf course stir the plood to enthusiasm. Of all the sports that come and go, yachting is the steadiest and most uniform ; its devotees never tire of its joys, and fashion can never relegate it to the background to make room for a new fad. Yachtsmen and yachtswomen equally share the indulgence in boating. The women who can sail yachts, steer a catboat over a boister- ous bay or sound, handle a rowboat with ease and padd'e the uncertain canoe are legion. There is no department of the sport that has not been invaded by members of the fair sex, and they have a legitimate position to day in all aquatic sports, The fashion of owning your own yacht has been set by women who have had the skill and the money necessary to make expert yachtswomen. Ten years ago there were many women who could han- dle their husbands’ or brothers’ yachts, steam or sail, but they refrained from making the matter public. They took up the sport for the pleasure they found it, but they had no recognized status in the yachting world. In 1895 the New York Yacht Club ad- mitted four ladies to its membership. They enrolled themselves as members for the ad- vantages accruing from the use of the club’s flag. It was due to the enthusiasm of Mrs. Lucy Carnegie, the owner of the handsome steam yacht Dungeness, that women were first admitted to this conservative and repre- sentative American yacht club. Mrs. Car- negie sealized the value to independent yachts- women of being able to fly the New York Yacht Club’s flag. There was no desire on her part or her followers to reform the club, or to interest themselves in the general man- agement of affairs, From the masculine point of view the advantages of belonging to the club were very different from those which Mrs. Carnegie craved. Her enthusiasm won the day, and she was admitted as the first woman member of the club. Her initiative, however, was quickly followed by others, and in the same season three other yachts- women were admitted. These pioneer yachts- women were Mrs, Sarah Drexel Fills, who owned and sailed her handsome steam-yacht Barracouta; Mrs. George Lewis, with her yacht Stranger, and Miss Breeze. Since then the yachtswomen contingent of the New York Yacht Club has largely in- creased, and to-day they represent a body of women enthusiasts who have brought credit to the club and to yachtswomen the world over, Their yachts are often scattered to all | quarters of the globe, but the flag, with its | famous blue ground, bearing a red cross, al- | ways follows them and floats from the mast- | head as a protection and an emblem of respect and attention. When Lord Dunraven came over here to capture the America’s cup the skill and abil- ity of Lady Dunraven as a yachtswoman be- | came known, and the fashion received a new impetus. She was capable of handling a yacht with as much skill as a man, and dur- | ing their many cruises together Lady Dunraven donned the oil-skin coat and blouse, made | especially for her by a London tailor, and | steered the crack yacht through many a tur- | bulent sea. American daughters and wives who do not own their own yachts, and have not joined any yacht club, show the same fa- cility in sailing the crafts as Lady Dunraven. The fact is, woman sailors are now found in | great numbers along our sea-coast, and they | are rapidly increasing. Most of the yacht clubs welcome women members who enter with a yacht of their own for the simple pur- pose of flying the club flag. The women element of the yacht clubs adds considerable to the social side of life on the water, and at the regattas and races they come in for some- thing besides the privileges of a mere specta- tor. Their nautical knowledge places them on a par with the men, and in some instan- ces they are better versed in the mysteries of yachting than those whe join the yacht clubs for the pleasure of enjoying the bar and social privileges. Women have taken to rowing and canoeing with all the enthusiasm they give to yachting. The rowing crews of the colleges for women have given a status to women rowers, and the four-oared and eight-oared races rowed by the picked college crews have stimulated great in- terest in this form of exercise. No one ques- tions the benefits women can derive from rowing, nor their ability to acquire skill in handling the oars. Clumsy, flat-bottom boats are not only dangerous but for a long time they were the greatest stumbling block in the way of women who had a desire to row. These craft’were considered the only safe things for women to navigate, and they soon found the exercise so exhausting that they gave up the undertaking, But to-day the light graceful skiff, the swift canoe, and the long, eight-oared shells are no longer the exclusive property of the men. Women crews are organized on nearly every river of importance near large towns or cities, and single shell rowers are as common among the gentler sex as tennis players. When the American Canoe Association holds its annual camp women candeists are al- ways in great evidence. Races between them are features of the gathering. It is the testi- mony of experts that women become as good canoeists as men. All of the sports on the water train women to better self-control. There is always the element of danger present in yachting, canoe- ing and swimming, and a cool head is essen- tial to the success of the endeavor, It 1s the ability to manage and control the craft and your own nerves which determines one’s skil] in all aquatic sports. For this reason they in- troduce a new feature in the pleasure that is usually lacking in land sports. The girl or woman who can steer a catboat or small yacht safely through a rough sea, with the wind blowing a steady bieeze, has learned a lesson in self-control that places her nearer on a par with her brother than dexterity in any other game could do. The same of course is true in sailing a small canoe, or in swimming a long race through the surf. The athlete, whether woman or man, who can do this knows how to look danger squarely in the face, and without blinding herself to its pres- ence confidently hold it off and battle suc- cessfully with it. The yachtswoman also learns self-reliance and the value of resource in emergencies, for many times a blow will come up, and a heavy sea threaten the boat with danger; but an expert yachtswoman learns to expect this, and she is prepared to meet the chance with skill and ability. G. E. W. NEW YORK STORE, BROADWAY, COR. 31ST ST. Yachting Togs, ESTABLISHED 1845 Mal, rays (i Golfing and Wheeling Clothes, BROOKLYN STORES, Broadway & Bedford Ave. Fulton St. & Flatbush Ave, Riding Breeches. + Outing Apparel for Men and Boys, made after newest fashions from confined weaves in Flan- nels, Ducks, Homespuns and Tweeds. 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