The National Geographic Magazine 1903-02: Vol 14 Iss 2

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Vol. XIV FEBRUARY, 1903 No. 2 CONTENTS PILOT CHART OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN. FOR FEBRUARY, 1903 ; ; : Supplement PAGE w THE GREAT TURK AND HIS LOST PROVINCES. BY WILLIAM E, CURTIS. ILLUSTRATED ‘ ° : : ‘ : wv THE WORK OF THE U.S. HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE. BY COM- MANDER W.H.H. SOUTHERLAND, U.S.N., HY DROGRAPHER o WHY GREAT SALT LAKE HAS FALLEN wv GEOGRAPHIC NOTES v GEOGRAPHIC LITERATURE ww NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY Published for the National Geographic Society By McClure, Phillips & Co., of New York $2.50 a Year REPRIN1 25 Cents a Number Entered at the Post-office in Washington, D. C., as Second-class Mail Matter.

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N ILLUSTRATED MONTHLY, published for the Nationa Grocrapuic Society, of Washing- ton, D. C., by McCrure, Panis & Co. All communications should be addressed to the Managing Editor of the Nationa GroGrapPuic Magazine, Corcoran Building, Washington, D. C. Business communications may also be addressed to McClure, Phillips & Co., at 141 East 25th St., New York City. as CENTS A NUMBER; $2.50 A YEAR Editor-in-Chief: HENRY GANNETT Chief Geographer, U. S. Geological Survey Managing Editor: GILBERT H. GROSVENOR Associate Editors GENERAL A. W. GREELY . WILLIS L. MOORE Chief Signal Officer, U. S. Army Chics of the Weather Bureau, U.S. Deparimeni of Agriculture W J McGEB O. H. TITTMANN Ethnologist in Charge, Bureau of Superintendent of the U.S. C 4 ~ 09. Coast American Ethnology et Geodetic Survey Cc. HART MERRIAM 0. P. AUSTIN Chies of the Biological Survey, U.S. Chief of the Bureau of Statistics, Department of Agriculture U.S. Treasury Depariment DAVID T. DAY DAVID J. HILL Chief of the Divisi of Mi 2 : icf of the Division of Minera Assistant Secretary of State Resources, U.S. Geological Survey BLIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE IDA M. TARBELL Author of “Java, the Garden of the Author of “Life of Napoleon,” East,”’ etc. “Life of Lincoin,’’ ete. CARL LOUISE GARRISON MARCUS BAKER Principal U.S. Geological Survey pri ne Seis School, Wash- WASHINGTON, D. C.

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rainay). Ua F 4 f | F =f F 4 4 F 4 { | i 0 0 a ee. 0 6.1 0 6 ioe 2 ee ee ee oe ae ees ae 000010 0~ aati te Pav oO. 0.) are ee Oe ek tO VO aien bo fh ol iat) eon terior OO NTT pe ee aa t 1000000 0/00004'1051 1 t1feemt a es ee ee) — } Po Pea eet o>. tS tea is oo 0 cry. toe ee ee eee a ee 1 eee 11 400000000 0-10 it a . on Nee ae ee |e ee eR eee! ° OCP ens ee M2 OO 28.28. ih. Ped i FOG.—The figures in the center of each one-degree square show for the month of February the percent- _ age of days (7. e., the number of days in each hundred) upon which fog has been recorded within the given square during the five-year period 1898-1902. My Portland hn 2 ee = he oma | J | A ae eo ~ A a see awe: Js Sl XUM

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Pliag) UBART U i) 20) 1a I 2 i ; y Zz = \ : 6600 1) 128 8008S Oe Ow) Bo 0.1 0 Ot ee i ‘ pe! ee oe 000 0 OS fie. ee ot ee eee 0 0 0 Oo OE 7 oe i eee = fo 29°90 8 8.0 tht. 2 283-8 2 + 2 Bae 0-0 8 \ pn ay ” : ieee oo ‘ Se Oo | ae = 2° Ay ini iee § £44 3 648 0 Q|! oO ere, ee } a oa | “iE « eer eee © a oe eee ae : “2 + 3 af = il i ' 4 il LEE } . Ss ~~ ee TS oN ean Poe ce 6 fee 6-80. 0 C 3 oe o-68 0 6. 0°) Tab ee i. ® 2 o. 88: 5 6-0 62 0 O = ~— oe ee oe ae di - | ! | 0 | g ~ FOG.—The figures in the center of each one-degree - i: - square show for the month of February the percent- 4S , i > age of days (7. ¢., the numter of days in each hundred) tp Rape. S upon which fog has been recorded within the given REZ 8 square during the five-year period 1898-1902. . 2 F ol zs “7 0 e m fo DB» J e =) Yo >t L, re , N z } 3 i \X A, y, | i 3% aaa. oe St. Pierre SB Portland ile .

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OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC ( REPRINT 40° ai i Th esnnes Sri duoseacassnesunusuneaneeNesasesersssaausianesstussnussat } roofer roe * AD al ; | , ° : ‘ \ : 6 Lae e ye j _a/

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AN E, N ORTH ATLANTIC OC€ —- ®— =\

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10°

—_ ra i at: rope aaeenet SE SSERRSGESISERRSREEP ESS seceaacescsecces ro. Fy = | J } / ! ” | ! @ } A a ' x 6 W / | Ss ' ? ff OO Or “6 eee Fentlanjl Firth of I a es / yn 3 : J he / Z Pad sais 4 nw - / P a aie | ¥ / Is ~ / 4, Ay , “ ' ae vay y “= »> ha € Rpckall: ; ‘ s a t LG; A i f f ii 2 uy i y a | / we ed i a } v7 A \ ae | tn / ! | 7 j S. 7 Dubline? ae Liverpool f y i ; (RAR 1 1 Ae v | e mas i / , JS /' | a Tt , j on 4 Y » / |) gam, ) : E_NyG_L_AyN D > > / » > uy 7 4 “ 5 ; / cS Sips ~ 4 ef a te Se i / *. / bd if ~ 7 , / ; gi Gv _ y Londone / jo — +7Fastnet wig mi t ia / * w/ } ; i ym 5 / fim ° : Bilbao C.Finisterre » J + aA 62 4

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> OCEAN ° 30 nk | -F | nf | v7 F . | , a J / F 1} / v/ 7 J J a ¥ : a | wa | | 4 : J / A | fe a Se Leen =. | i , ‘i , (yn | 4 | io ~ } Ad } 7? oe | 10° co diseases Ghrmionbrgio ber roofer s ° 20 2 ° ” y 3 > » 3 | ' | | | | | | il a z ¥ == — - | 7 / / »>?> f/f | A ee = 1 ——— | an E q SS anne Saaai imo jamal TITETITE TIT eT TTI ir rrr rrr rt i 1 Ra { ; | W £/ es ee | ee 904 eS Eee ol ] { 40'/ / | ad / / / u _= - 7 a - Qo / a\ / NS / / wo ‘d : 1 / Ad / o% / " / / : a A md / f We at? sal ‘te jo I _——I- — | Pt y, { }* fl $$ ——_—__—_—- ——_——_-—F | a ro 4 Pe we A ‘is 4 ; any / y + A , + is A y V2 J t 7 XUM

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FEBRUARY 1903.

° ° ° 10 0 a) Trt Preto aeubanttittt sasvet Th anna ans teeeeaasecueerennasaaaE Prod . G5 SUS RUSRESSUCSUSAURRGUSSEBEEUSESUSEGESSSRESEESERREsaeGnueasEnEESa! Wt to ee : a : 2 ; j : 0 So . I é was Li eh hae NORWAY @ I S de iM \ 4 stad vin e° cs A : —~,- z. PAAR: sane meme a A Oh - sedan Firth TMs :

C.FPinisterre Sant: ans a ; _f COIN ‘ EQUATOR CROSSINGS y ‘ Vige - Although the most favoralt a

»-AN D Dublin

”? nA. g —_— Gat Oa may be found b the Office p thie old files, a table of blishes or

2 a A a Liverpool 4 Y ® E_NyG_L_AyN D Southampton SIN Y inspection of crossings

London . &

’ | ]

unkerque GALE AND STORM FOR GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND

IM, Antwerp

SIGNALS

The cone powt upwards wmai- // cates the proba- bility of strong winds at first from the North (passing from N. W. to S.E. through N/) The cone pout downw ds mndi- cates the proba- bility of strong winds at first from the South (passing from S

E wi W through S)

Three lights of like color suspended trom the corners of a triangle replace the cone at night

FOR FRANCE A ND PORTUGAL

A cone point up- wards above the cylinder indi- cates the proba- bility of a very heavy gale from

A cone pout down- wards below the ||! cylunder indi- cates the proba- biliy of a very \ heavy gale from the S

the N- The cone powt upwards uidi - /] cates the proba- bility of strong wine at first from, the North (passing from.

Wto S E. through N) The cone pout downw ds indi- cates the proba- bilaty of strong winds at first trom the South (passing from S E.to NW through S/)

> FOR SAILING ee se ~

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30° OF Ow a r ee 2 ee Se Se oe ee es ee

{ +4 4 yl {

LL] = = — y jannuen, oe i —=I

p F 4 t 4 sf t i E f t =f = 4 E =| E 4 E 4 zt 70 0) 50 ” = - . : RAEN ES SS se mre 0&3 I ii [ RRR ser J eae | { 4 Sth) sii t rowel ; 20! «° | | G@ALES.—The figures in the center of each | ffP2I | 5-degree square show for the month of Feb- | 32 | 33 | 30 29 25 ay eat || ruary the percentage of days (7, ¢., the num- | BRD | || ber of days in each hundred) ‘upon which ~ ~ + Boke FBG] || gales of force 8 and over have been | | | % || recorded at some point within the | | 27 | 22 37. 27 | 24) IS 4 3 1 sol, Ziven square at Greenwich mean |, | hs oo" | noon during the 10-year period 1898- 7 | * | 1902. | rf 3 ao ic Hl F ‘es N i H = oer og ieamtunes 291.31 |583 $10 | | | wy 38 34/38 38! 36 32:20 21122/ 13; 10/816 [LS 4 | Z 7, = e +— ; AY f ey zi! a2) ah2e) 20) 21) 16! 12] 13) 4) 91 4 2 | , ad _ ' m* 5 iH | b T | 4 a | a ; 3 a i} 9 ,oX \ e Boe \ eae | 3) th | eeeolegoed ae | | | ene H aT ™ las. : I | | > a 1 * 6) ; f | > FW 1614481 6:9) 2) 2) Bal | ae 7 ies “Wa “2, € | y | | 2 if 4 a | aan or | Y t r TI v ow |) wisp o J hath | | fy | to 8 } a) 7 7 7» | ye © 4 ~ol? 4 | an | r \ ¢ SO&S \ ~ wl > % | fad af : | + ’ \ } { Hie

RECOMMENDED ROUTES FOR FULL AND LOW POWERED STEAMSHIPS. Attention 1s called to the wesgt-bound steamship route along the parallel of 388° N. Anexami- nation of the latest information in its possession beads the U. S Hydrographic Office to recommend this route for the winter season for vessels of 11 knotsand under. It is believed that low powered steamers will thereby keep out of the region of adverse winds and currents and gain considerable time. Attention is also called to the routes recommended for full and low powered steamships to and from northern Europe and the Gulf of Mexice. An examination of the winds and cur- rents along the routes here shown leads the U. 8. Hydrographic Office to recommend them to steamships of the classes indicated. Shipmasters are cordially invited to give their experience with these routes. STORM SIGNALS <= — Oa ry SS | 4 Be CCl anal ace, —— cal = ew -—--— a | NW SW NE S.E. “Hurricane” Winds Winds Winds Winds Signal Flags 8 feet square. Pennants 5 feet hoist, |2 feet fly Mo ood 5 PEERS ensacola Dhow = Kye «= se New Or ree ga.” Se AE: S a: a Galveston? aol Sz Ser

~ oe

, Jacksonville -

VWiiad

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“ihe Qe” | = re er eS ._ — Tre" > aaa, t “ A —_—JIs Georges Shoal \ ’ |

Baltimo:e Washington»

rit Charleston ‘ a * . r \ - ‘ bs 5.2, : a “ | . se . 2 A y ! }°" YW” Bermuda is hb . j’% po IF x \ | | }¥i VO / » ‘ 7% . ee . | / | \ ‘ if , y : 4 \h ¥ f \ Xx <sonville ¢- * Go * Z Jupiter , Taattpa

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y, / ‘ J pes y . ss f 2 e. r jy ———__ oo! a J Pg | . } = | } | } | | | age : | ~ ™~ y Og Z | YZ, 9 . ix-3 ov : | oe= be 8 | ae. Ly = > E: ‘i NA e : So We : i } | > 4 ; = | - ‘ AN! | = ‘ ; - = e | / } ~~ é = ee i | pore we : — eines — if 5 | | : s =, ~ 92 / : iz : . = eC = e= | : > / ey Y | y 4 , ft aK > RSL iS Sy / aw | j e / / y sy 7 XUM

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Flamish Cap | 4 4

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* “"Bablin.

a | g Cardiff we .

+ i —[(_ r rast g Bil > Finisterre we Saptan 4 EQUATOR CROSSIN Vige- - Although the most favors

may be found by inspectior

the Office publishes on the

old files, a table of erc ssin his table gives the data fc

soutn America.

Route eas iebon 3ound for United States | PF i . a i b avi Ay eee = & , one = | |

\ P y Vessels bound from Cape y ‘ ott iongitude WP YW ak® folle Xx | i he-sv vite? ‘ 4 . a ae , }

FORECAST FG W’ly gales, high Cadiz meridian the wit ~~“ ie, af oN

? : "a rent of the time ; / ._A the western semig ' : 4 VA ’ P55 the western semiq N subchart, atiainig * ¥ A . { . as a rule setting 1 . . Along the Ame war : ery ai ieee \ ae k ; il 4 $ ; . = ee prevail (65 per ceg e \ X : ,, Over the caste : / o : : i ; / he cyclonic conditio ; / ‘ : k iat: ‘ H vicinity of the A ' / r | / , . ’ between the char +! VY 4 ' : tT roh / lcE.—The Gran | l / ons wat ; ¢ early in the mont | y | . - © ,* ! | . A 7 I I = ae \ / | a , S i 4 | ISOBARS AND ISOTHERM Val ; / | | FOR THI ; oo | | MONTH OF FEBRUARY | / f came ; —+— ale 5 | *s ae 2 : +t lsobars.30 inohes and above : | / | bh / | Jsobars below 30 inches ' P F te , 2 Tsotherms (tn degrees of Fahry . i , CANARKY/ 15,9 Sena ae ! / ad L rs ; | U ? y : = f

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Maderra‘o>. . ANAK

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wes? ox IRELAND

Dubline? | 2 P~] | HOLLAND > x ou Ay Lae & a Se a Ora / AmSterdam | g | Antwerp unkerque GALE AND STORM SIGNALS FOR GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND

FOR FRANCE AND PORTUGAL

Isobars below 30 inches Tsotherms (tn ieosenma ae? 2. Pz prom | 8° . Worth (passing from | South (passing from §. . Wto SE. through N) |E Soe ee S) MA } , i i a : atte 1 > — by | q yer han A us *.Fimisterre Santa” Bilbao i . F Y the western semicircle (34 per cent from the SW. quadrant Gales, as show! in th subchart, atiaining a maximum frequency throughout the 1 yn 4 Wo N., 2 4 W. as a rule setting in at SE. and shifting in sudden and violent squalls to NW : as Along the American coast north of Hatteras winds from the northern semi + , % prevail (65 percent). Gales frequent, as shown, : Over the castern half of the ocean the normal winds are apt to be disturbex am cyclonic conditions, the center of the system hovering several days in success int ‘ so: vicinity of the Azores. During such periods the wi relations on the sailing routes * between the channel and the equator and north of 25° are reversed. \ ‘ s Throughout the Caribbean Sta and the West Indies fresh trades will prevail. Northers / . in the Gulf of Mexico at times reaching as far south as Colon é N.C. Blanco Foa.—Fog ee nt, as shown on subchart. , lceE.—The Grand Banks are free from bergs Field ice may, however, be looked for ( early in the month 4 ) J svu* 7u° 60" 50° 40 / : I i I MP SREY 21 ea oe ISOBARS ANB ISOTHERMS Farewell FOR THE D Ais ue he ~ ee lsobars.30 inohes and above ‘ a

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ria Ol A44ck4 DLL a !

= F — — — S.E. “Hurricane” Winds Signal

Flags 8 feet square. Pennants 5 feet hoist, I2 feet fly IH 4 4 + | 4 4 4 tH ha 4 Galvesto

—¥

—————— 7 —= SSSeeSSSSSSERES RL

= Sessa see ' iit -— sae

ein Se BRANCH HYDKUGRAPHIC OFFICES | -— biiicit — NEW YORK: Maritime Exchange PHILADELPHIA Bourse Building LETi TTI GALVE STON ‘Levy Building SAN FRANCISCO: Merchants Exchange

bitiiidd

PORT TOWNSEND CHICAGO Masonic Temple CLEVELAND, OHIO: The Arcade BUFFALO, N-Y: Pradential Building SAULT STE.MARIE, MICH.,.NewsBuildg

sonia PE or ola ; EP ne eee Jacksonville New Orleangag 2 !

& - ®) as oY! N : P| ‘ K y | - S fathom Lory. | | 4, ¥ My | ee ads ' @—« pa « ; 1 a t~ \ a \ x - ‘ y+ : ie 5 ia | - | | | : ‘ Key, West | \ P “4 09 -'@ = , | \ ‘ \ | Ly ~ we | \ 4 : ; y \ ‘ Ay , : \ 4 ag i, ~~ a + \ 4 .., f ©. ei \ “« \ x * ‘ y \ a x | 7 ty a ee 2) Jeger iv Progreso , ; . Z - ir “a . J 7 . ’ : - 7 { + — _ os - — —— ee eee - Campeche _ : . a * ; - ‘ \ ~ ee ots ’ 7 a _ Pe, eee: \ \ * \WA . 78 Bn x } a, ' \ r : peice \ é rr . a

Ser re ae: a — Truxills » At the Branchn Hydrographic ~*~. fives barometers and™ thermometers are com me pared with standards free of cost 4 oe aud the latest wnformation can always ~ 7 ¥ be obtavwd regarding charts, lights, dangers to navyation, and all matters of interest to mariners oo be ’ r > s q Navigators of every nationalty arm uivited to avail We, r u : / \ themselves of the benefits of these offices, and to ve-\. 5 \ ys \ i opernte with the Hydrographic Office at the Navy Depart>.\ b 7 ® @ deseription as possthle, in order that it may he tdentified ‘ea.

Greytown —_—

“EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNIFICA The information in BI ical forecast, with deduct February. MAGNETIC VARIAT!

XYIIM

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15°00'W j ‘ a | Pa ts ‘ 4 f rN - « - ee: ; 3 Me LAP Soy SBS PON \ ° wee I hy / / 73700'W ey / L 4 % Z Pr SA Al yp /

° | Southportg’ . : 7 ee outhportg oe Ce egllpa® -" . \ . \ we ‘ ANBSIEC \Z sonar ee OS LZ WC ar gm +, , P ex é Charleston f oe. 5 aia f \ . / \x VE w OYW/ \ ’ Cae" So On ae a yr — OK ON : PRT? :

cksonville

— ° to d oF . e LAA ¢ Ge « ee ‘go 3 ; ¥ 5 . Pe Antigua 4. | -e. | ‘- A a oy | I my ; te ] | a PF / ‘ - ‘ M9: ‘ : Ix

v4 | O—« , , \ | ahd ie | Ne: t- . - iF Savednillia Ne geCartagena ie ea ee ba NIFICANGCE OF THE COLORS AND SYMBOLS

ation in BLUE gives a genera! meteorolog- PREVAILING WINDS AND CALMS.—The wind rose in each with deductions therefrom, for the m>nth of 5-degree square shows the character of the winds that may be expccted within that square during the current month. The (,eor arrows fly with the wind. The length of the arrow, measured (from the center of the circle) on the attached scale, gives the percentage of time (number of hours in each one hundred) that the wind may be expected to blow from the VARIATION The lines of equal percentage of calms, light airs and variable winds. . do ul b o ow

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{

— eo =

2 é Fy NS a aan { \ ¢,

\ HZ . ~ ] sb baiceen | Ca a | A 4s

= raha a SN iis 1) «& hy fr 1 « . A ¥ Ki 2y aad ; f +b ; 4: - —f +t LOLOTY Ss ~ -r". \ \ ¢ THE COLOR general meteorolog- from, for the month of oO Ne) ) F of thre lines equal eoree for et a a 4 t at, eal A , | 7 er * ye ‘ /\ Aa

Savednilla artagena AND SYMBOLS >»

~ Ge *—« | Oe —— ee s ef ee Bg ' Antigua ~ | : eS LN . aN t : a : . », ” | ‘ ~ __ sAves I ate eee | iON, - * yh . | s ‘ - ‘ 7 - Ll <6 \ * 44 \ PREVAILING WINDS AND CALMS.—The wind rose in each 5-degree square shows the character of the winds that may be expccted within that + ge during the current month. The arrows fly with the wind. The length of the arrow, measured (from the center of the circle) on the attached scale, gives the percentage of time (number of hours in each one hundred) that the wind may be expected to blow from the given point. The number of feathers shows the average force of the wind on the Beaufort seale. The figure in the center of the circle gives the percentage of calms, light airs and variable winds. For EXAMPLE, the attached wind rose should

| & 4 * \r } | 5. inique. J. & Barbados » Fre 7 George own N} SS ~ a,

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Jy A 3 ie fas : i Z Pd | \ ee: Pia 3 bd ' 4 a \ ; } k / ‘ \ rv / e a Vy : ’ é N.C. Blanco | ay ee ee | eI ! 4 J L a ' , : C » € a) : ‘ ! > hug , a \ ' i f ca> 3 sy" Tu" x “3 ey ’ I mM ‘ ISOBARS ? ' : / ' ' d y 3 ! J , | MONTH / 4 a ae - * aie ee \ y, Y Tsobars.30 tne ' fy 4 Aan Isobars b \ lsoth : a \ 4 , Cc 1s N A K Y I s so LITIS (UL } + | i | ! By, ! / TS rs | F 2 | 4 »» x¢ > | /

{ S \ } er ‘ } ' ‘ 1 | | ' ' ico a a i aera é T = / A ' y / / " « ¥ Ps | a ! ¥ 4a ¥ ! oy is + “| ! i z ' — > ! * \ ' * \ | | \ \ r ae eee . = ee <a ‘\ ea es ” \ ; VE KDE 1s. » ae,

' ae md ‘ae : } eee ly winds of the polar side become SW’ ly (the | oa CSW ly winds). / : . BQ, On the equatorial slope the changes of pressure | { ¢ gy are slight, and the prevailing winds (the NE.

SuTho™ CARIB BEANASE. |

C. Blanco

} \ ee ACHE I z 8 , — \ 110 100° 90° 80° 70° rk,3 The Chart shows the average pressure and / (ig) ture of the atmosphere for the month of Februa ae normal conditions anticyclonic areas cover the Am , the European continents, a connecting ridge exten the ocean, having its central line in latitude 30° N ot low pressure (29.96 inches) extends east and we equator, and a decided cyclonic area has its ce vicinity of Iceland, where the average pressure fox i8 29.50 inches. The prevailing winds blow from the regions of } the regions of low barometer, the earth’s rotatio serving to divert the motion of the air (in the no sphere) constantly toward the right. The N’ly would thus otherwise appear on the. equatorial ridge of high pressure become NE’ly (the NE.

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_ ee +. } dé | eee = / / P| * a \ +, >. a 5 had | ’ | \ ‘ | \ \ » \

— | ‘ J a : ’ y> ¢ 1 \ » Y » : ¢ } i ¥ j ; r yt v / Y ‘ 7: / i ey ee } | / | / . I / / 2 es IPS ae bs | F, os 4 CANAKY 1s 9 P + | / c % ¥ Mt | Pi eT cs fp i, lee } J > é > 0 | 7 = , / | if od ‘ | 4 y |! ¥ a i 4 | * A | \ ‘ ¥ y y ‘ Ps , } ( A a ix y a | / { [A | = | | 1 } J | re | i : | ~ \ \ , | S.C. Blanvo >. }\ ! \ | ee * Be Acnanh + 5 aes | | \ y , ? Ye \ 5 f ; I i / \ \ 110° 100° \ \! / j 1 \t k /Y ; The Chart shows the C 6 / 9) ture of the atmosphere fo: Tr | ¢ ae: normal conditions anticyc! | rat 8 d ¢ the European continents, : a ie i , the ocean, having its cent (.VERDE\ IS. © } ae | of low pressure (2Y.9%65 inch P \ equator, and a decided c \ wn C2 : }\, vicinity of Iceland, where Wis \ ' i A ©. Verde is 29.50 inches. \ : le The prevailing winds bl \\ / : \ the regions of low barome \ ‘4. serving to divert the motic \ \ [ * sphere) constantly toward \ \ would thus otherwise. ap] \ X\ Ce ridge of high pressure be | \ 4 S.. <#’ly winds of the polar s \ oa 2W' ly winds). ; \ J ‘6 — On the equatorial slope t j |* Whey are slight, and the pre f* a + + —+-— 4 ++ ye + + 2 LFF) ; ‘ - earn Ne | ‘ Cas Mes | ¢

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—

Savannab pues ae 1 ° “OE __ . MEXICO \A the western semicircle (382 per cent from the'N W. quadrant); east of 20°, 58 per cent from teas >the western semicircle (34 per cent from the SW. quadrant). Gales, as shown in the Oo *® subchart, atiaining a maximum frequency throughout the region 45°-50° N., 25°-45° W as a rule setting in at SE. and shifting in sudden and violent squalls to NW. a Along the American coast north of Hatteras winds from the northern semicircle will prevail (65 per cent). Gales frequent, as shown. ; Over the eastern half of the ocean the normal winds are apt to be disturbed by cycionic conditions, the center of the system hovering several days in succession in the vicinity of the Azores. Dumrng such periods the wind relations on the sailing routes between the channel and the equator and north of 25° are reversed. Throughout the Caribbean Sta and the West Indies fresh trades will prevail. Northers in the Gulf of Mexico at times reaching as far south as Colon. FoGg.—Fog infrequent, as shown on subchart. lcE.—The Grand Banks are free from bergs. Field ice may, however, be looked for early in the month.

Bie 2 ee 50° 40° 30° ee. ae 10 SS SS : here F — “4 — tt —-+—- re —— c : — fF’ ISOBARS AND ISOTHERMS ~~~ **7"°"" ‘ FOR THE + i 4 40" mies 955—-- MONTH OF FEBRUARY |~-~__ 1- ag Cu Pe | - ae eae! 29 6US i Isobars,30 tnohes and above -, (e eo | 29 = Isobars below 30 inches : hdl ect aes ‘| Isotherms (tn mua a? 4 : | ff L so" = | ft Ste j NEWZFOUSDLANI “j= ' 2 % oop M58 be 948 oe ae | } . whey Aulitax -H > |=222 a & dlitax, is A Yo + J aes i e | 43 — | | ~~ 70.0 : | } — ‘| = a oe os 40 ” al a i 3° i | ¥ ae | 309" Amores = } eS ; pat 4 - 1 . Corrections for *Berinuda . Madq ira® 65 temperature to be |.) - 1 applied to the read H30" | weil y Pearse ings of mercurial baro | | 2 Oe 9 meters wonder to compare | oe eg the atlinospherte pressures H a < } - Vl indicated by them with the || | ; | , | values trulicated on this chart\)| a -— : T Ly rg Ath. Cyyp All 207 me M6 4 : De | Ther = Ther as dd “4 tie fe — 7. = | i ¢ - 1 U Mod 16227-7907 | 40° -.03 70° -al | CARIBBEAN-\SEA ___94———~ eens | “s - S \ | 50" -—06 80° -14 H wake TE te isi Ak 15°| “sal 60° —.08 90° -16 . 4 | a a3 ; 110° a? — A f R I c 4 om. | 4 , ie | [-St raul Repke 2S CE CES AACR OCRCECS 0° 40° 20° 20°

thows the average pressure and tenrpera- osphere for the month of February.—Under 18s anticyclonic areas cover the American and ntinents, a connecting ridge extending across g its central line in latitude 30° N. A trough 2.45 inches) extends east and west aJong the decided cyclonic area has its center in the nd, where the average pressure for the month y winds blow from the regions of high toward w barometer, the earth’s rotation, however, the motion of the air (in the northern hemi- ly toward the right. The N’by winds which erwise. appear on the equatorial side of the ressure become NE’ly (the NE. trades); the he polar side become SW’ly (the prevailing ‘ial slope the changes of pressure from day to nd the prevailing winds (the NE. trades) are accordingly fairly constant in direction and of good force. On the polar slope the daily changes are considerable, and the winds are accordingly constantly shifting, although those from a W’ly direction exhibit a majority. Along the transatlantic routes these variations of pressure consist in an interchange of periods throughout which the barometer is alternate:y below and above the average, the wind backing to southward or SE., with falling barometer, falling light at the time of minimum, increasing in force and hauling to westward in sudden shifts during the subsequent rise. These changes of wind and pressure follow each other much more rapidly in the case of a westward-bound vessel than in the case of an eastward-bound, owing to the fact that the suc- cessive troughs of low pressure have themselves an eastward motion. The rate at which the observer and the barometric depression approach each other is thus in the former case the sum of his own westward velocity and the eastward velocity of the trough; in the latter case the difference of these velocities.

—{ i. a £

ITT TPTITIT ITY ITITIITI IIIT ITT TITITIrry TI == 1% eS BO —= TETTITITTTYI i= TT ITTETT ITTY

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es A Tan) ——s _— SL SSeS SEPSSSe eal === Littit TTTiyTry a. | ‘Tam pice — LT PGT TTT TT TTI ! a i} - 1 | : > o| — ‘ 20 he 4 Vera my » : oe 2. m—s* | ~ Ss -s er fer yt ‘. . 78 ie } + ’ ™~. t ea : CE | a aa! ——— — b+ -—\ “| oa x ; ®: ; eae yw a a r mH te So NN a eae: BRANCH HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICES \ Traxilis’ ’ BOSTON: Customhonse At the Branchn a NEW YORK: Maritime Exchange Hydrographic OF PHILADELPHIA Bourse Building fives barometers an Pe RALTIMOBE: Customhouse thermometers are com- { NORFOLK Customhouse pared with standards free 6f cost) ¥\ : 1 4 . | , + SAVANNAH Custombhouse caul the latest information can always " ~ | 0 | NEW ORLEANS: Custombouse be obtawwd regarding charts, lights, dangers to oN NS 1H GALVE STON ‘Levy Building navyation, and all matters of interest to mariners . 4} re ° > . 1 SAN FRANCISCO: Merchants Exchange Navigators of every nationality are wuvited to avail \ “a Mm PORTLAND, ORE’ Customhouse themselves of the benefits of these offices, and to ce \ i} PORT TOWNSEND: Customhouse operate with the Hydrographic Office at the Navy pe thy \ Ss ue CHICAGO: Masonic Temple ment in Washington by sending in prompt and complete ~~) « . - CLEVELAND, OHIO: The Arcade reports of marine data upon their arrivel in port. At places “nas C BUFFALO, N-Y: Pradential Building outside of the United States such communications may be lo ne SAULT STE.MARIE, MICH. NewsBuildg Aanded toa the VS Consul who will mail them without coset . his DULUTH, MINN. Torrey Building to the sender In reporting a derelict vessel or drifting buoy, IE spectal vare should be taken to state ite position and give as exact > “Yen @ description as possthle, in order that it may he tdentified 1H : EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNIFICAI The information in BLL | | aa | 5 : | ical forecast, with deductic ae | February. L | } ; | MAGNETIC VARIATI(C a} magnetic variation for a DERELICTS AND WRECKS ~ The name of the vessel is given,unless it has not ‘ i 4 been ascertained: and the syinbol represents, as tar as possible. her rig and the condition in rent vear are shown | i which she appeared at the date set opposite to her position The successive positions in A which she has been seen at the dates indicated. are joined by lines of dashes OCEAN CURRENTS the stream and drift « ICEBERes AND FIELD [CE The shaded symbols represent reports received af ter the 20th. ult. Each report of ice seen along a given track is represented by a straight small blaek arrows line joining the symbols placed at the first and last ppsitions at which ice was seen and having the observed number of bergs written upon it. The numbers opposite the symbols at the ends of the line are the dates referred to by the report = q DRIFTING BUOYS _WATERSPOUT REGION OF FREQUENT FOG OP oes I TiTILiTTTy x — — = 2 —

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[e------¢------t-4--,

1 | | | | 4 ’

‘6 iY . s

“2 r 4 \ ak, a . a,

— B}s2 = | pe 4%

} 4a : A aw * tt ican yf dK & Bar AD’ e | [Z J r . > « | O—_«K« , K * r \ | / L ne : 7 ne ba Sein e. - - ” +S Savednilla cB. \ Se - ugh Cartagena = | Xo : | 2, | a —_ IIFICANGE OF THE COLORS AND SYMBOLS > i Wy tion in BLUE gives a general meteorolog- PREVAILING WINDS AND CALMS.—The wind rose in each ith deductions therefrom, for the m»>nth of 5-degree square shows the character of the winds that may be expccted within that square during the current month. The George¥ arrows fly with the wind. The length of the arrow, measured a) (from the center of the circle) on the attached scale, gives the percentage of time (number of hours in each one hundred ) that the wind may be expected to blow from the given point. The number of feathers shows the average force of t the wind on the " , Beaufort scale. The figure in the center of the circle gives the VARIATION The lines off equal percentage of calms, + airs and variable winds. jation for every degree for the eu For EXAMPLE, the attached wind rose should ont : i oa if . _ x be read thus: In each 100 hours the end nay be e shown by lines of fine dots expected to blow 18 hours from average force, 3; 10 hours from East, ba pe ~y & *e, 3: Thea voatly averace se (1g + hours from SE. , average fore e, 4; 26 hours ‘from RRENTS _ The vearly average set of SSE., average force, 8; 10 hours from SW., ind drift currents is shown by the 7 average force, & calms, light airs and variables, : 13 hours, ALrOWS ae . 1 \. SCALE OF WIND PERCENTAGES REGION OF EQUATORIAL RAINS ECT AS ETT ELT TS OT TS SS

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antiagy

Anogug 6 KA a go: > vo & “ vAves I iy} 3 h : ‘. “Gk ae | e—K

, ‘ = a ey i sates Stn a : : a is tere pa Pes aren ae ae me eh, a . N ° _ 9 ‘ ' : / _ ae s * 4 waa a | . : : . : ¥ - os Pade » i —)\ « 4 ; s ‘i , \ Q , . ‘ a - \ > Ri! ° , ° : 4d . —_~ 4°* 2: ‘ Ix x ‘ L < " rm . < ae K ‘ g & Barbados . | : / er) a \ ae . * sil . { 7, : a 2 << ‘ x ini ! Eg F- : . | ~ _ . _ ‘ ! +S Savednillia - a A Cartagena ruayvra AS: _ — ; a emesis t ™ yo | , £ : ~ 7 4 * OLORS AND SYMBOLS e | , - . » 1 Drolog- PREVAILING WINDS AND CALMS.—The wind rose in each ¢ bnth of 5-degree square shows the character-of the winds that may be expccted within that ~~ a during the current month. The arrows fly with the wind. The length of the arrow, measured (from the center of the cirele) on the attached scale, gives the Ve * percentage of time (number of hours in each one hundred) that ee el the wind may be expected to blow from the given point. The aN number of feathers shows the average force of the wind on the Cc. a Beaufort scale. The figure in the center of the circle gives the ave -s Eaea perce — of calms, light airs and variable winds. wor For EXAMPLE, the attached wind rose should be read thus: In each 100 hours the wind may be expected to blow 18 hours from NE., average force, 3; 10 hours from East, average force, 3; 24 to! 1% a hours from SE., ave nie force, 4; 26 hours from sitet ad SSE., average "force, - 10 hours from SW. the » average force, 3 « calms, ‘itght airs and variables, 13 hours, AVI WIN REGION OF vi lenin RAINS J ITI pete LETT pL iT PLE TTT pL tT LY Tit eee Tb L Lily 11 uguecnee my 60

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‘ * t ; t I ! ! l ' IN \ ; Ty ' ! ‘ ' ie I l m, * : . Ea ae tL \--=-=-s---- a ae \ | \ ! % 1 K | \ : | Noa s, -¥ Xx ail Z \ ; | Ne ae ) y b : ! a ' \{ /, ‘ , f ) NI v¢ (io) +f : fl s —<—S <§ ‘ 7 | x - a "re 5 'r y - if Mg ! a 4 4 AG 1\R =] Ww4 f _~ — — — | i: = 9M a NORTHERN ite PNT NETRACE a - ! = \

4 siberian San

CUM

PUBLISHED MONTHIY AT THE HYDROGRAPRIC OFFICE, Bureau of Equy ment. Department of the Navy Washington, DC, WHA Southerland ,Coranander. U.S N Hvdrographer

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¢ ee | : hy @ _ = - | fae Sd. NO. , os i Ret et Cs, ee ee naan pit fe t } seceewenenesnsseseey TT pT jeeaeeer a: geceeeces q TIL! LLLLL Banegseecncnarcece! mo) 40 . 30° PUBLISHED) MONTHIYN AT THE HYDROGRAPRIC OFFICE, Burra et Kqguyment. Department of the Navy Washington DC. WHA Southertand .Coranander. USN Hvdrographer YLIM

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New Savannab Orleangmme

C. Blanco

\ sca ORC = I = RCS | =t F \ 110 100° 90° ,

ture of the atmosphere for the month of Februa normal conditions anticyclonic areas cover the Am the European continents, a connecting ridge exten the ocean, having its central line in latitude 30° N. ae ot low pressure (2¥.4%6 inches) extends east and wes equator, and a decided cyclonic area has its ce vicinity of Iceland, where the average pressure for C.Verde 48 29.50 inches. ty The prevailing winds blow from the regions of h the regions of low barometer, the earth’s rotation i / The Chart shows the average pressure and

serving to divert the motion of the air (in the nort \ sphere) constantly toward the right. The N’hy w would thus otherwise. appear on the equatorial K <a: ridge of high pressure become NE’ly (the NE.

‘ly winds of the polar side become SW’ly (the W’ly winds). On the equatorial slope the changes of pressure iy are slight, and the prevailing winds (the NE.

BF J ety 4 +“ \ a - \ « \ ‘ \ | . ‘ 1 ‘ : , 2 bs a a | . nf bh \ ‘ie at | ae ‘ \ . ~% . = t A a

\_] , | fs || } E eSey. val ‘ks E ; \ } Wm 7 - . — — Oe janenspees sesewe varias cp ea Se jERSusuuauscuagsgscssscnspessssaussnsuusuesasnsncaseseesss: ke (y | : [eee oF Niecy i =e a a : : . roe, c a | “— Hah \, ; vata . ; ! 0 PRilppne sinh { ai

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‘4 if Ro ks

\ \ | \\ é | A f tim” 8, ' VERDE\ 1s. » \ re , - vil \\ | \v ' \ - Ee Leer eaeene Mee -§ *- P le . | | R | \ | . {/ * | . | ” \ | / \J / ~ ' ’ \ " 4 . _ 2 N ° = / ‘ seseeeecoenasess

—— A a ei

oy —+ + ssummnammamees a S .

| \ i vi AC Verde \ ’ 4 ‘ a . y Cte ees S.C. Blanvo

“0e. “a ey 0

CA ee s ah BC - =t 90° T Tt I I I 110° 100°

The Chart shows the average pre ture of the atmosphere for the month: normal conditions anticyclonic areas c the European continents, a connecting the ocean, having its central line in lat ot low pressure (2¥.9%6 inches) extends « equator, and a decided cyclonic area vicinity of Iceland, where the average is 29.50 inches. The prevailing winds blow from the the regions of low barometer, the eart serving to divert the motion of the air sphere) constantly toward the right. would thus otherwise. appear on the ridge of high pressure become NE’ly ‘ly winds of the polar side become W’ly winds). On the equatorial slope the changes « are slight, and the prevailing wind ol Vv. 4 ¢ ‘ \ eh Gee . ap & » ne x - POS 72S | ™ Ma ' “he | ” | | ‘ | bt 4 | “¢ | 0. { . / “< ox — oe herenrraret ediaisicaiee parca 3 Serre 4 SSSSCSSseeeees: -oe L 7s A SSeeeeeuss' shot A —t a — — —

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(SOO ATS. ST We ana above _——~ = ~ 29.65 2 y 7 ' Isobars below 30 inches hb, coe 5 1 (erat aie la px ; : Hy Jsotherms/ ar ts Aen ao : | H| = i Dos = td -- yf cod Hf he ; - | eParis . 5 ji ; ] H goes oo FRANCE a —4 | ——~ oe Fe Corrections far |: Madgqirs 65° temperature to be |: = ib applied to the read ed ings of mercurial bare —_ 430° / a : f . IY F * oeeay Is meters wvorder to compare |. o aie the atmospheric pressures | aS ej be irdicaled by them with the |- | | values trulicated on this chart i 7 > Att Fuser Att Fan v° | Ther Ther 40° -.03 70° -1 | | ] | 5a ae | 50° -.06 80° -14 33 “a 15° a 60° —.08 90° -16 8 — t SOUTH AMERICA™*.~ Ke a 0 RS ff IR OCR SO CA ALCS Tae ome iret eae 0° 80° 70° 60° 50° $e LECT TTT ETT not —s— “10° erage pressure and temrpera- accordingly fairly constant in direction and of good force. he month of February.—Under On the polar slope the daily changes are considerable, and ic areas cover the American and the winds are accordingly constantly shifting, although those onnecting ridge extending across from a W’ly direction exhibit a majority. line in latitude 80° N. A trough Along the transatlantic routes these variations of pressure ) extends east and west along the consist in an interchange of periods throughout which the fy lonic area has its center in the barometer is alternate:y below and above the average, the [| e average pressure for the month wind backing to southward or SE., with falling barometer, 5 falling light at the time of minimum, increasing in force and hauling to westward in sudden shifts during the subsequent rise. 4 r, the earth’s rotation, however, These changes of wind and pressure follow each other much 4 of the air (in the northern hemi- more rapidly in the case of a westward-bound vessel than in e right. The N’ly winds which the case of an eastward-bound, owing to the fact that the suc- ir on the equatorial side of the cessive troughs of low pressure have themselves an sastward me NE’ly (the NE. trades); the motion. The rate at which the observer and the barometric e become SW’ly (the prevailing depression approach each other is thus in the former case the Hy from the regions of high toward sum of his own westward velocity and the eastward velocity changes of pressure from day to of the trough; in the latter case the difference of these velocities. iling winds (the NE. trades) are 410° I gry . ain plege CT Seren dly Igtactte: 4.2 ™ aot : ‘. \ Moets) : 1 ‘ l t i ‘ / i | 4 Ne ] be mart! 1) ITITITITIIIIITTTIY III IIIT viii iii TT “"T I LITITITT T TTT) | Wi titi ee: eee a ee aauL eu sauaavessuscauecs: “nEnSssesa5 ne ()° 10) Or: Noetxzel, Chief Lithographer No.1400 CUM

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VoL. XIV, No. 2 WASHINGTON FEBRUARY, 1903 ——_—_——_——_ : —f }- THHUE WNATIONAIL GEOGIRAIPIENIC MAGA ZIINIE, THE GREAT TURK AND HIS LOST PROVINCES By WILLIAM HE next, like the last, battle- ground of Hurope will be the Balkan Peninsula, a group of petty states lying in the southeastern corner of Kurope, bounded on the north by the Danube River, on the south by Greece and the AVgean Sea, on the east by the Black Sea, and on the west by the Adriatic. It is one of the oldest, yet one of the most primitive, portions of urope, comprising the ancient Mace- donian Hmpire. The people are de- scribed by Pliny and Herodotus. They fought Darius the Persian, and Alex- ander the Great. Julius Cesar was planning a campaign against them when he fell in the forum with the dagger of Brutus in his breast. ‘The story of the adventures of the Emperor Trajan among them is carved upon that mar- velous column in Rome. ‘Theirs was the last province to be added to the Roman Empire and the first to go to its dissolution. They then fell into the hands of the Turks, and for century after century submitted to the yoke of the Sultan, and were gradually sub- merged in political, moral, intellectual, oblivion. The exist- and commercial BK. CorTis ence of this once powerful people was almost forgotten until the Bulgarian atrocities, as they were called, excited universal horror twenty-five years ago and Russia intervened on the pretext of racial and religious relationship and attempted to take them away from Tur- key ; but the other powers of Iurope prevented the Czar from enjoying the fruits of his victory over the Sultan and refused to permit him to have a port upon the Mediterranean. Ancient Macedonia was cut in half. The upper part was made an independent kingdom, called Bulgaria. The lower half, famil- larly known as Macedonia, was restored to Turkey upon solemn stipulations that the people should have a Christian governor and a just and liberal govern- ment. That territory which appears upon the map as Ivastern Roumelia, has recently attracted much attention from the civilized world because of the kid- napping of Miss Stone, an American missionary. BOSNIA AS AN AUSTRIAN PROVINCE Bosnia, the westernmost of the Turk- ish provinces, was placed under the pro-

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THE 46 tection of Austria, and has been the scene of a remarkable transformation from one of the most unhappy and hope- less places on earth to one of the most peaceful and prosperous. It isthe more interesting because it happens to be the first Turkish proviice that was ever well governed. Nowhere else in Kurope has there been so rapid an increase in population and wealth, and the pictur- esque old towns are taking on an air of activity. While subject to the Turks Bosnia practically vanished from the current of civilization until 1875, when, exasperated by extortion, robbery, ra- pine, murder, and religious persecution, the people rose in rebellion. The pow- ers of Europe placed them under the protection of Austria, which has given the most remarkable exhibition of ad- ministrative reform known to modern history, and has demonstrated the possi- bility of governing alien races by justice and benevolence. ‘“ Where the Turks are, there also are the wolves,’’ isa Bosnian proverb. An- other says: ‘‘ Where the hoof of the Turkish horse strikes, the crops will come up very thin.’’ ‘Those proverbs were illustrated inan unmistakable man- ner in Bosnia, but one who visits that country today can scarcely believe that such conditions existed there only a short time ago. There were no rail- roads and few wagon roads. Brigandage was a recognized profession. Robbery Was as common as lying. Murder was not considered a crime, and the number killed by the soldiers or by each other was not recorded. The British consul reported to his government that the average was ten thousand a year. Those who were compelled to travel went in large parties fully armed; farmers dared not build their cabins where they could be seen from the highway, and women never appeared in public alone, because it was unsafe. ‘Today human life is as safe in Bosnia as it is in Illinois, and travel is even safer there, because there NaTIONAL‘ GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE has never been a train robbery in that country. During the last ten years, out of a population of nearly two millions, the homicides have averaged only six a year, and in 1900 there were only two. There has been no case of highway rob- bery since 1895, and in 1900 but one case of burglary. Other crimes are equally rare. The people are peaceful and con- tented. The cities are filled with new and handsome houses, factories have been built to utilize the water power, a university, colleges, schools of engineer- ing, agriculture, and manual training have been established to qualify the peo- ple to make the most intelligent use of their opportunities. The population is almost evenly divided between the Mos- lem, Orthodox Greek, and Christian churches, with a few thousand Protest- ants and Jews. Members of the differ- ent religions mingle on amicable terms and show mutual respect and toleration. The courts are wisely and justly admin- istered; justice is awarded to every citi- zen regardless of his religion, wealth, or social position; taxes are low and honestly collected and economically dis- bursed. ‘The people have learned for the first time that honest complaints will be patiently listened to, and that wrongs will be remedied. Although the older peasants are still ignorant, backward, and distrustful, the younger generation show enterprise and ambi- tion and are conducting their affairs with intelligence and order. Enlightened Mohammedans have ob- served the advantages of the social, ag- ricultural, and administrative reforms, and while no adult Moslem was ever converted to Christianity, they are adopting the customs and habits of the western world. ‘The lives of the women are becoming enlarged. ‘The wives and daughters of the Turks still wear veils in the streets, but are being released from the degrading position they occupy in all the lands of Islam. XUM

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THe Great Turk AND His Lost Provinces Under Turkish rule all public wor- ship was forbidden except that of Islam, and Christians and Jews were obliged to say their prayers in secret and pay blackmail to the local magistrates for the privilege. They were known as Rayahs—the word means ransomed— because, meriting death, they purchased permission to live by paying tribute. Western Christians do not appreciate the religious heroism which the poor peasants, not of Bosnia only, but of Bulgaria, Macedonia, and other Balkan provinces, have displayed during the long centuries they have suffered from the persecution of the Turks. They have lived in daily dread of martyrdom, yet have clung to their faith, when at any moment they might have secured safety, prosperity, and position by re- canting and accepting the religion of their oppressors. ‘These conditions still exist in Macedonia, and in Roumania the Jews are suffering more from the Christians than they ever suffered in 3osnia from the Turks. ‘The Christians do not kill with the sword nor destroy with the torch, nor do they steal women for their harems, but they debar their Jewish fellow-beings from labor, drive them to distress and starvation, deprive them of education and the privilege of worship. Through all the centuries that Bos- nia was controlled by the Turks the people were without morality, educa- tion, arts, or sciences, and their indus- try was limited to the supply of their own wants, simply because when they possessed something they did not actu- ally need, it attracted the rapacity of the officials. Occasionally some man like Nikola Tesla, the famous electri- cian, who is a native of Bosnia, broke through the restrictions and found an opportunity to develop his genius else- where; but under the Turks such cases were few. Much of the cruelties endured by the people formerly were due to religious 47 fanaticism. A peculiar sect of der- vishes, called Ghazi, are holy men who go forth to slay the enemies of the Prophet until they are themselves slain, and as long as such fanatics are allowed to invade Christian communities, there can benopeace. Religious fanatics who commit murder for the faith in Bosnia are sentenced to have their bodies cre- mated afterexecution. This has driven them fromthe country. It is a punish- ment they dread more thandeath. To hang or shoot a Mohammedan is simply to send him to the paradise he is seek- ing, where he will rise again in his nat- ural body in the presence of the Prophet. But if his body is burned or destroyed by any means, it is impossible for him to be translated, and his soul will re- main forever in suspense. Bosnia is broken by high peaks, deep glens, ridges, beautiful wooded hills, winding streams, and rich alluvial basins, which yield large crops of grain and are especially adapted tofruit. The landscape is a series of terraces which slope gradually southward and finally disappear in an archipelago of lovely islands, one of the most enchanting pictures in the universe, whose attrac- tions have been the theme of poets ever since the days of Homer. It was on this coast during the Roman occupation that the Roman Emperor Diocletian erected his magnificent palace, which covered ten acres of ground, and for size, magnificence, and architectural display surpassed all human dwellings. The ruins are still sufficiently well preserved to fascinate the artist, the architect, and the archeologist, but the marble is be- ing rapidly carried away to Italy and Austria for building material. Sarajevo, the capital, is a city of 60,000 inhabitants, reached by a narrow- gauge road winding among the moun- tain gorges like the Colorado railways until it reaches the Adriatic at Metkovic, the port of Bosnia. The journey is in- teresting ; the scenery is picturesque,

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48 but that which most attracts the Amer- ican traveler is the transformation of medieval castles into paper mills, tan- neries, cigarette factories, woolen mills, and other practical purposes. Most of these enterprises have been aided by government subsidies, for the Austrians have considered it wise to encourage the introduction of foreign capital and im- migration by offering substantial in- ducements in the way of free land and buildings, exemption from taxation and financial assistance. In this way they have provided employment for the women and others who are incapable of manual labor, and have afforded a ready and profitable market for agri- cultural products. ‘There 1s excellent water power everywhere. Very little raw material is now shipped from Bosnia. ‘The hides are tanned at home; the wool is woven into blankets, rugs, and carpets; the tobacco is manufact- ured into cigars and cigarettes; the wheat into flour; the fruit and vegeta- bles are preserved, and all other pro- ceeds of agricultural labor are increased in value and manufactured into market- able merchandise before they leave the country. Prunes are the largest item of export, and $1,500,000 worth were sold in the European markets in 1gor. Beet-sugar factories have now erected, and experts have been brought from Italy to educate the natives in the cultivation of silk. In Sarajevo the ancient and the mod- the Hast and the West touch hands; the oriental with eternal com- posure listens to the chatter of the Frenchman and regards the gesticula- tions of the Italian with supreme con- tempt. The town is half Turkish and half Austrian. The old part looks like Damascus and the new part like Buda- which, in many respects, is the city in the world. I was that Sarajevo contained a lar: been GF meet > pest, handsomest told y variety of types of the original orienta Constantinople, er 1 i races than even and THe Nationa GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE that in the bazaars may be seen daily examples of every national costume worn from the Straits of Gibraltar to the Yellow Sea of China; and they all live together in peace and harmony, each recognizing the scruples of the other, permitting him to practice in peace the creed and customs of his faith. Sarajevo compares well in architect- ure and in other respects with any other city of its size in Europe or Amer- ica, and will some time be a beautiful and popular place, for it is much favored by nature, and the inhabitants are rap- idly accumulating wealth. There are mosques with minarets and domes, churches of every religion, fine office buildings, apartment-houses, govern- ment edifices, and public institutions. The city hall is a beautiful modern structure of the oriental type, and the Scheriatschule or law college is imposing. The old part of the city consists of crooked and narrow streets, lined with shops and bazaars opening upon the sidewalks, asinallorientaltowns. The merchants and mechanics squat on their haunches or sit cross-legged as they make and sell their wares, but it is not sage for a stranger to purchase, souve- nirs of the country in those shops unless he sees them made, b2cause most of the stock comes from the factories of Ger- many, France, and Austria. The dif- ferent trades are governed by guilds, as was formerly the rule throughout Ku- rope. Each guild has a patron saint and a long list of officers, who fix prices and profits, regulate wages, appoint ap- prentices, and decide disputes; but there is no eight-hour law. The busy arti sans keep at it from daybreak to bed- time, seldom knocking off except to say their prayers at the nearest mosque, or drink a cup of coffee and make a cigar- ette at the nearest café. The population of Bosnia at the time of the unknown. There had never More than revolution is been a census. XUM

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49 S . 4 4 es p His Lost PRovIN AN K REAT TuR + THE A Jewish Cemetery, Bosnia XUM

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50 two hundred thousand people fled across the border during the ten years previous to the Turko-Russian war to escape the cruelties and extortions of the Turks, and at its close the inhabitants had prob- ably been reduced to less than eight hundred thousand. In 1900 the popu- lation had increased to nearly two mil- lions, and is growing at the rate of about ten per cent a year, including represent- THe NatTIoNAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE lem recognized the importance of a fact which many rulers in all parts of the world and at all periods have forgotten or overlooked, that conscience and re- ligion lie deeper than any other influ- ences that affect human action. One of the most novel peculiarities of paternalism is the erection of fine hotels in different parts of the province in order that people who visit the country may x S Wis Bite aphiee Sf Government Hotels, Bosnia atives of every religion, especially Jews from Russiaand Roumania. The Jewish burying ground is a curious place, ordi- nary granite boulders being used for headstones. The government respects the religious scruples of every citizen, and adjusts its laws and judicial pro- ceedings to the requirements of the different faiths. ‘The Austrian states- men who have solved the Bosnian prob- be made comfortable and leave with pleasant impressions. ‘These hotels are well kept, charge reasonable rates, and have not only been one of the most effective influences in bringing capital and new enterprises into Bosnia, but have been a profitable investment to the government. : Another interesting and novel feature of the administration concerns the mili- YIIM

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Tue Great Turk AND His Lost Provinces tary. Every young man must serve five years inthe army. At eighteen he en- ters the active service for two years, and then serves for three years in the reserve corps, which is mobilized for two or three weeks annually for drill and in- struction ; but no Bosnian soldier serves in his own country. He is sent to Austria or Hungary and stationed in some large town, where he can have an opportunity to rub up against the people and learn by imitation what he cannot be taught at home. If he marries an Austrian girl, he is allowed double pay, is exempt from certain guard duty, his wife is permitted to live in the barracks With him, and is employed as a cook or laundress or in some other capacity. Thus a great majority of the young men who leave Bosnia for military serv- ice return with Austrian wives and settle down as valuable citizens in the old towns. On the other hand, all military duty in Bosnia is performed by Austrian soldiers, who are offered similar induce- ments to marry Bosnian girls, and if they settle down in the province per- manently, the government gives them farms or homes. ‘Thus the country is not only being settled by an excellent class of young people, but the ties of relationship are linking it more closely to Austria every year. One of the most interesting towns is Jajce, where St Luke is believed to have lived and died and to have been buried. Helena, the daughter of the last of the ancient kings of Bosnia, was given the remains of the apostle as a part of her dowry, and when Jajce was captured by the Turks, she escaped by a miracle and carried them with her to a convent at Padua, Italy. BULGARIA Bulgaria is about the size and shape of Pennsylvania, with nearly the same population, and its forests and rivers, the mountain ranges and rich vaileys that lie between them remind one of 51 the Quaker state. ‘The Danube River forms the northern boundary and car- ries most of the commerce of the coun- try, and along its banks are some fine old Romanruins. Three-fourths of the population are engaged in agriculture and pastoral pursuits, cultivating little farms and following flocks and herds which graze at large. Theoretically all of the land belongs to the state, and those who occupy it pay one-fourth of all their produce for rent and taxes. The principal products are wheat, wool, and the oil of roses, which comes from the provinces bordering on the Black Sea. Philippopolis, a famous old town founded by Philip of Macedon 350 B.C., the second city in population and im- portance, is the center of the industry, and from that point eastward the entire kingdom is arose garden. Roses are cultivated like grapes in France and Italy, so that all of the strength of the sap may go into the flowers, and in the summer women pluck the flowers as they reach maturity. ‘Thousands of tons of rose leaves are gathered annu- ally. The petals are carefully removed and the oil extracted from them by distillation. The oil sells from $50 to $100 a pound, according to its purity and specific gravity. A single drop will perfume a two-ounce bottle of alcohol. The peasants of Bulgaria are indus- trious, ingenious, and intelligent. Both men and women are of fine physique, capable of great endurance, and few are idle, intemperate, or vicious. I saw but three or four beggars all the time I was in Bulgaria, and they were crip- ples. The women do their share of work on the farms, and never seem to be idle a moment. ‘They spin as they walk along the highways and as they sit behind piles of fruit and vegetables in the markets. Most of the shepherds you see from the highways are women and children. The large herds in the mountains are kept by well-grown boys,

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who sleep in the open air with sheep- skins wrapped around them. Hospitality is based upon the ancient laws. No stranger is ever turned from the door if he comes in peace. ‘The poorest peasant will share blanket and bread without the asking, and no visitor leaves a cabin without being offered a bunch of grapes, a mug of milk, or at least a glass of water. Each family has at least one pair of oxen, forty or fifty sheep, besides cattle, goats, pigs, geese, and chickens. Fruit is plentiful. The southern slopes of the Balkan Mountains are clad with vines, and the grapes produce an excel- lent wine. ‘Tobacco and cotton grow well and all the vegetables known to temperate zones. The great majority of the people be- long to the Orthodox Greek Church ; not more than one-fifth are Moslems. Their patron saint is St John of Ryle, a monk, who lived in a hollow oak in the mountains. A monastery, built upon the site of his retreat, is an enormous building of medieval architecture, fre- quently visited by tourists, who are hos- pitably entertained by the monks. It re- ceived considerable notoriety lately be- cause of areport that Miss Stone was con- cealed there, and a thorough search was made by the soldiers. ‘This profanation of the holy place excited great indigna- tion among the orthodox Greeks, who blamed the American missionaries and threatened reprisals. Its picturesque walls have often shel- tered brigands, and in olden times its secluded situation made it a convenient rendezvous for enterprising gentlemen when tempted by favorable opportuni- In re- oriental ties or oppressed by necessity. turn for their hospitality the monks were liberally supplied with game from the mountains, and are supposed to have received liberal contributions from the booty of their guests. Around the picturesque city of Phil- ippopolis are many ancient ruins, which 52 Tur Narronat GrocrapHic MAGAZINE should attract the interest of arche- ologists, but have thus far received very little attention. Perhaps that is because they are sofar away. In Philippopolis there is quite a colony of Protestants, which last year erected the largest and finest Protestant church in the Balkan States. In Sofia there is another pros- perous Protestant church. The princi- pal school is at Samakov, where Miss Stone had been attending a teachers’ convention before her capture. The most influential woman in Bul- garia is Mrs Ivan Kassuroff, a former pupil of Miss Stone, who is notable as the first woman of social position in that country to enter mercantile business. Her character and abilities have not only carried her through a trying or- deal, but she has gained the respect and confidence of the entire community and has opened the field of commerce for women. When her husband, who was the proprietor of the principal bookstore in Sofia, died, he left her nothing but the good will of his business, and she was compelled to carry it on or become dependent upon others. Although no woman had ever undertaken such a task in Bulgaria, Madam Kassuroff assumed the responsibility. Now every one ad- mires her and is proud of her success, and every hat is lifted when she passes along the street. She is a typical ex- ample of what American ideas, intro- duced by American missionaries, have done for the emancipation and advance- ment of women in the Kast. ‘The gov- ernment, as well as the public, has ex- pressed its approval, and Madam Kas- suroff is now the official printer? and bookseller. Sofia, the capital, is a city of inhabitants, situated at the base of Mt Bitosch, a beautiful peak, 7,800 feet high. It covers a considerable area, and looks as if a building boom had been suddenly checked, which is true. Under the reign of Prince Alexander and Stefan Stambuloff, Bulgaria made 45,° OO YIimM — & =

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UM THe Great TurK AND His Lost PRovincss The Ancient Greek Monastary of St John of Ryle, Bulgaria

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54 THE extraordinary progress, but under the present government very few improve- ments have been made. ‘The business portion of the city will compare well with any place of similar size in France, Germany, or Austria. The business blocks are of modern architecture ; the streets are wide and well kept; there are many apartment-houses similar to those in Vienna; the shops are filled with fine assortments of European goods—patent sweepers and furniture NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE The national costume is one of the most picturesque in Europe, and their outer garments are of wool grown and sheared upon their own farms, spun and woven in their own cabins, cut and made by theirownhands. Formerly their cotton goods were imported from England and Germany, but the thrifty Bulgarians have learned the most valuable lessons of economy, and a little patch of cotton is now found beside nearly every cabin, which is planted, picked, ginned, spun, Sofia, the Capital of from Grand Rapids, agricultural im- plements and machinery from our fac- tories, and Armour’s canned goods; but what little commerce we have with the Balkan States is filtered through Austria. In the market places you see the cos- tumes of nearly every oriental race. The Bulgarian is distinguished by the kalpak, a head-dress of lamb’s wool, and the Turk by his fez. The Turkish women. wear veils, but the Bulgarian women follow the European customs. Sulgaria woven by the women like wool from their flocks. ‘They are fond of bright colors, and the garments of both mien and women are elaborately embroidered. A Bulgarian girl arrayed for her wedding or for a holiday is as pretty and pictur- esque an object as you can find outside of China or Japan, and a Bulgarian dandy isa delight. The sober-minded gentlemen wear long coats of white wool with full skirts and frogs, turbans of lamb skin, and high boots. There is a fine club in Sofia, more im- XUM

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Tue Great Turk anp His Lost Provinces 55 posing than can be found in any city of 46,000 population in the United States, and it is the center of social life. Dur- ing the reign of Prince Alexander, a military barracks, public printing office, a technical school, a riding academy, and other creditable government buildings were erected.. Several mosques have been converted into prisons, markets, warehouses, and arsenals. The largest, only a stone’s throw from the palace, is now being fitted up for a national mu- seum. ‘There are two hotels with com- fortable rooms and excellent tables; electric street cars run in every direc- tion; the streets, public buildings, and houses of the rich are lighted with elec- tricity, and other features of modern civilization are quite as advanced as may be found in any other city of Europe. In the older quarters of the city are seen long rows of ancient wooden houses with latticed windows, and by that sign one may know the residence of a Turk, who thus shields the women of his fam- ily from the public gaze; but there are now comparat'vely few Moslems in Bul- garia, and they are leaving rapidly. The Berlin conference told the people of Bulgaria that they might choose their own prince, and the National Assembly selected Prince Alexander of Hesse, a nephew of the Czar of Russia, a grand- nephew of Kaiser Wilhelm the Great, and a brother-in-law of Queen Victoria’s daughter Beatrice. He was a great fa- vorite with every body—brave, unselfish, patriotic, and ambitious to promote the welfare of the people, but too honest and candid to cope with the conspirators by whom he was surrounded. Russia was disappointed because the other powers had deprived her of the fruit of her vic- tory over the Turks, and determined to obtain control of Bulgaria by intrigue. Anxious to preserve its independence, Alexander refused to comply with the Russian demands, encouraged the dem- ocratic spirit of the people, and assumed the leadership of the anti-Russian party. The Russians retaliated by one of the most scandalous conspiracies since the days of the robber barons. ‘The Prince of Bulgaria was kidnapped in his own palace by his own officers, driven over the mountains, and placed upon a Rus- sian yacht in the Danube. European sentiment compelled his restoration and the Czar evaded responsibility, but not one of the Russian officials engaged in the plot was ever even reprimanded. Alexander was enthusiastically wel- comed by the people, but, with charac- teristic frankness telegraphed the Czar that he had received his crown from Russia and was ready to surrender it whenever demanded. ‘The Czar com- pelled Alexander to abdicate, but not until after he had given hima pledge that the Bulgarians would be permitted to manage their own affairs without in- terference—a pledge that has been daily violated. Alexander’s successor and the present Prince of Bulgaria is Ferdinand of Saxe- Coburg and Gotha, a grandson of Louis Philippe of France, and a cousin of nearly every crowned head in Europe. Ferdinand is the opposite of Alexander in character, motives, and ambitions. He is selfish, fond of display, of ex- travagant habits, and the gratification of his own vanity is of greater impor- tance to him than the progress and wel- fare of his people. For the first two or three years he got on without friction, but his queen, Marie Louise of Bourbon, yearned for the social recognition of the court at St Petersburg and was ambi- tious for her children. Through her influence he yielded to the demands of the Czar, and the active ruler of Bul- garia has since been the diplomatic agent of Russia at Sofia, now Mr Bakh- meteff, a diplomatist of great talent and long experience, who is well known in Washington, having married the daugh- ter of the late General Edward F. Beale. Stefan Stambuloff was the greatest man the Balkan States ever produced,

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THe NATIONAL 56 and was the Prime Minister of Bulgaria under Prince Alexander and Prince Ferdinand until the latter adopted a pro-Russian policy, when he retired and was succeeded by a man of Russian sympathies. He became the leader of a formidable anti-Russian party, until removed from the whirl of Bulgarian politics by assassination in July, 1895. The assassin was recognized as Michael Stavreff, a pro-Russian politician who was also accused of the murder in 1892 of Mr Vulkovich, a diplomatic agent of Bulgaria at Constantinople, second to Stambuloff in influence among the anti-Russian party. Until October last Stavreff was allowed to go unpunished, and was a familiar figure about the cafés of Sofia. He was pointed out to me and to every one as Stambuloff’s assassin, and appeared to be proud of that notoriety. In October, he was arrested, tried, convicted, sentenced to death for the two murders by order of Mr Lud- skanoff, Minister of Interior and leader of the Russian sympathizers, who was banished by Stambuloff for treason. Immediately after the sentence of Stav- reff, there appeared upon the streets facsimile copies of letters showing that Ludskanoff had employed him to com- mit the two murders, and similar fac- similes of other letters have appeared at frequent intervals since. It is the popular belief that Ludskanoff, fearing Stavreff’s reckless tongue, attempted to put him out of the way, and that the latter’s friends have disclosed the cor- respondence to involve the minister in the crime. Stavreff has not been executed ; the Prime Minister, Mr Karachoff, still per- mits Ludskanoff to remain in the cabi- net ; the government ignores the situa- tion, and the friends of the minister claim that the general amnesty granted political exiles after Stambuloff’s assas- sination was a full pardon for any crime in which he might have been involved before that date. 1902, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Stambuloff lacked polish and educa- tion; he was arbitrary and despotic, but his'entire career is an example of unsel- fish integrity and patriotism. He lived and died for the independence of Bul- garia, and had the full confidence of Prince Alexander. Had those two men been permitted to carry out their plans, the country would have had peace, prog- ress, and prosperity; but conspiracy tri- umphed, patriotism was repressed, and but for the strong hand of Russia its condition might have been worse than it is. The treasury is empty, the national credit is exhausted, and the hysterical emotions of sympathy that are stirred by the sufferings of their kinsmen across the border keep the people in continu- ous turmoil. MACEDONIA The Bulgarian atrocities have been repeated in Macedonia for over twenty- five years, and have grown worse and worse, until the country has been almost depopulated. Human life and property are held as worthless by the Turkish ofh- cials. No woman has been safe from their lust; no man has been allowed to save money or produce more than enough to supply his own wants.’ The Christian population have no standing in the courts, no remedy for injustice and extortion, and the world would be shocked if the truth were known; yet year after year the jealousy of the pow- ers of Europe permit these conditions to continue. An occasional insurrection or lawless incident in which a foreigner has been the victim, like the kidnapping of Miss Stone, has attracted public attention, and remonstrances are frequently filed at the Sublime Porte by the Iuropean ambassadors, in which the Sultan is warned that anarchy and barbarity will not be tolerated longerand admonished to repent and reform. It must amuse His Majesty to read the signature of the German ambassador at the bottom of these notes, and we can imagine his YIIM

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THe Great Turk AND His Lost Provincgs large, sad eyes grow merry at the farces so frequently enacted at the Yildiz Kiosk when the representatives of the powers appear in their radiant uniforms to remonstrate against his inhumanity to his Christian subjects. He realizes and he knows that they realize that the slightest interference by force on the a7 ble than any other nation, because its government sustains and protects the Sultan in his atrocious barbarisms not only in Macedonia but in all parts of the near Kast. Von Moltke prophesied that a univer- sal war would be fought under the walls of Constantinople, and the Bulgarians House of the Sobranye (Bulgarian National Assembly ), part of any of their sovereigns will pro- voke an even more emphatic remon- strance elsewhere for fear some commer- cial or political advantage may be gained; and when his situation becomes serious he grants another profitable con- cession to some German syndicate as an additional policy of insurance against intervention. Germany is more culpa- Sofia are trying to provoke it. What is known as the Macedonian Committee is an organization to which every Bulga- rian belongs. Its headquarters: are in one of the most conspicuous buildings upon one of the most prominent streets of Sofia. Its meetings are public. It issues a weekly newspaper in which its purposes are announced and its plans

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THE Prince Ferdinand of Bulgaria discussed. It is sustained and encour- aged by the Bulgarian government and assisted by liberal contributions from Russia. The plot to kidnap Miss Stone was hatched in the Macedonian Com- mittee, and her ransom, paid by the American people, was undoubtedly ex- pended for arms and ammunition. The object was, first, to punish the Ameri- can missionaries who had refused to contribute to the Macedonian cause ; second, to attract the attention of the Christian world to the anarchy and bar- barism that exist 1n Macedonia ; and, third, to involve the United States gov- ernment in hostilities with Turkey. How long the powers of Europe will permit the Sultan to defy them is a question often asked, both in private and public, and never answered. It is probable that trouble will ultimately NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE arise through collision between the Bul- garian patriots and the Turkish troops in Macedonia. ‘They occur frequently. Scarcely a month passes without a battle on the border. If Bulgaria makes a complaint, Turkey replies that the gov- ernment is trying to suppress brigand- age. Some time, however, the Bulga- rian people will not be satisfied with that answer. They will insist that their government demand reparation of Turkey and make a hostile demonstra- tion that will attract the attention of Europe. This would have occurred long ago but for the inability of Bulga- ria to raise funds to equip and pay an army, the indifference of Prince Ferdi- nand, and the lack of leadership. In the meantime the Sultan is buying guns in anticipation of trouble. We often hear that the Sultan is insane, that he is suffering from a neurotic dis- ease caused by insomnia, anxiety, and fear; yet no diplomatist of ancient or modern times has been more skillful or successful in playing upon the rivalries of his enemies. SERVIA The small but restless State of Servia obtained its independence from ‘Turkey early in the nineteenth century, under the leadership of a nameless peasant. Because of his swarthy complexion and raven hair they called him Kara George, which means ‘‘ Black George,’’ and Karageorgeovitch is the name of his descendants. Milosh, a companion of Kara George in the fight for liberty, was a farm servant of a widow named Obren, whose name he adopted when he needed one, and Obrenovitch is the family name of the present king. The feud between the two families began in 1817, when a Turkish pasha hired Milosh to assassinate his friend as he slept, and the history of Servia has since been a continuous duel between their descendants, encouraged by Tur- key and Russia, which have been con- XUM

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THe Great Turk AND His Lost Provinces 59 tending for the control of the Balkan Peninsula. The present king, a repulsive degen- erate, and his queen, Draga, are boy- cotted by all the courts of Europe because of their immorality. The Ka- rageorgeovitch family are in exile, Peter, the head of the house, being engaged in scientific pursuits in Switzerland. King Alexander looks as if he had es- caped from an asylum for the depraved, but has a vigorous constitution, and on occasions has shown great nerve and King Alexander of Servia power of command. Unfortunately he has inherited all the vices of his father, the late King Milan, who was the worst ruler Kurope has seen for a generation. While getting his education in Paris he acquired habits which unfitted him for the responsibility of governing a primitive and restless people like the Servians. He squandered the public money and lost his private fortune at ecards, and his wife, Natalie Keskho, daughter of a colonel in the Russian army, was compelled to leave him and finally obtained a divorce. She now resides at Biarritz, very much respected and beloved, although she made herself unhappy and excited the hostility of the Servian politicians by her uncon- cealed Russian sympathies. The scan- dals of the Servian court furnished gossip for all Europe, until finally, en- ervated by dissipation and despised by all his subjects, Milan abdicated in favor of his young son, Alexander, and went to Vienna to die. Alexander was a precocious prince, and when only fifteen years old fell under the fascination of Madam Draga Maschin, who had been a lady in wait- ing to his mother and is about ten years older than he. She is an ambitious, brilliant woman, gifted with consider- able beauty and a charming manner. Madam Draga had more influence with the King than his parents, the ministry, and the court, and when he was seven- teen persuaded him to marry her and as- sume the reins of government. From that time until now the Servian court has been the scene of a series of sensa- tions which are likely to continue in- definitely. The palace, in the center of the city, is a pretentious structure, which rises next to the public street without grounds, and was built by Milan, the gainbler king, with an eye to entertain- ment and display. Within is a series of magnificent apartments equal to those in the palaces at Berlin and Vienna, de- signed by a French architect, and fur- nished with an extravagance that threw the country almost into bankruptcy. The great drawing-room, in which the king received the officials, the diplo- matic corps, and the public every Sun- day morning, is one of the finest in the world. You reach Servia by railroad through Hungary across a country that looks very much like Kansas and Nebraska. Servia is called a poor man’s paradise,

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60 because the soil, climate, and other con- ditions are favorable to people of small means. Highty-seven per cent of the 2,400,000 inhabitants are engaged in farming, and there is no country in which the land is so equally distributed, for there is one farm to every eight in- habitants. Fruit culture is the largest source of profit. The prunes of Servia are the most popular and bring the high- est price in foreign markets. All other kinds of fruit are grown and preserved, and grains, vegetables, and dairy prod- ucts are shipped in every direction. Flocks and herds are large and multiply rapidly, and the people are always pros- perous except when a war or a revolu- tion 1s on. 3elorade, the capital, lies upon a promontory where the river Save joins the Danube. ‘The modern part of the town is quite attractive; the ancient part, built centuries ago, during the Turkish dominition, is picturesque. The modern streets are wide and lined with fine buildings after the Austrian style of architecture. Some of the school buildings are excellent samples of modern constructien and show an educational enterprise that is creditable to the country. There is a compulsory education law, free schools, and free books; a number of academies, schools of commerce, agriculture and fruit cul- ture, and a university with four hun- dred students. ‘The government sup- ports a museum, an art gallery, and a theater for the encouragement of native dramatists and opera writers. At the extreme point of the promontory, rising abruptly from the river to a height of 100 feet, is a citadel erected by the Ro- mans before the time of Christ. The castle is in an excellent state of preser- vation, is used for a prison, a barracks, and a military school, and is the head- quarters of the army. There are nopau pers in Servia, and therefore no alms- but there is a free hospital for civilian patients, houses, both military and THe NationaL GrEoGRAPHIC MAGAZINE which is well kept up. The Bourse is a fine building, also erected by a French architect, and reminds you of the mod- ern structures of Marseilles and Havre. The fever of speculation is as great in Servia as anywhere, and exciting scenes are happening frequently on the Bourse, particularly when political disturbances OCCT, The ancient part of the city has re- mained unchanged for centuries. The walls of the citadel were built by the Romans, and stand as they left them, after having sustained the attacks of hundreds of armies and some of the most famous sieges in history. The political crisis in Servia just now is caused by the lack of a baby. In the absence of a natural heir the constitu- tion of the country requires the King to designate his successor, and the neigh- boring powers are endeavoring to assist in the selection. The daughter of the Servian cattle dealer reached the throne by a series of sacrifices and intrigues more sensational than often occur out- side of fiction; yet she is not happy, and never will be until she is socially recognized by the other royal houses of Europe, to whom this clever adven- turess is offering the throne of Servia as the price of such recognition. Ne- gotiations have been going on fora year or more with Russia. Queen Draga promises that the King will proclaim Prince Mirko, of Montenegro, heir ap- parent, provided she and her husband are invited to spend a few days in Rus- sia as the guests of the Czar; but the Czarina, who is a pure woman, has ab- solutely refused to receive her. ¢ Prince Mirko is a brother-in-law of the King of Italy, and two of his sisters have married Russian archdukes. He was educated at St Petersburg, is a great favorite of the imperial family, and Queen Draga could not have se lected a candidate more agreeable to them or satisfactory to the other powers. Furthermore, another of his sisters mar- YIIM

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Work or THE U. S. HyproGRaAPHIc OFFICE 61 ried Prince Peter, the present head of the Karageorgeovitch family, which ap- proves of his selection; and thus, if he were to reach the Servian throne, the feud that has wrecked that country might be permanently healed. The suc- cess of this arrangement, involving the peace of Servia, the supremacy of Rus- sia in its government, and perhaps the THE WORK OF THE political control of the Balkan Penin- sula, is checked by the refusal of a good woman to receive a bad woman as her guest. Count Lamsdorff, the Russian Minister of Foreign Affairs, has recently visited Sofia and Belgrade, and the newspaper dispatches from those coun- tries predict events of importance to occur soon. U.S. HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE* By CoMMANDER W. H. H. SouTuHertanp, U.S.N., HypDROGRAPHER APPEAR before you this evening to describe the work of the U. S. Hydrographic Office, and in so doing I shall make an earnest effort to give you as definite an idea as possible of the character, mode of operation, and the valuable practical results of this the most unique and at the same time the least known of all the technical offices supported by our government— unique in that it is the only office on this continent which publishes charts, sailing directions, and other necessary aids to navigation relating to foreign countries, and little known in that its work is principally for a particular class—the seafaring class. ORGANIZATION AND HISTORY OF THE OFFICE Before proceeding with this descrip- tion, a short résumé of the phases through which the office has passed from its inception to the present time may prove of interest. Prior to 1830, whenever a naval ves- sel was in need of charts or nautical in- struments it was the custom for the commanding officer to forward to the Board of Navy Commissioners a requisi- tion for such of these articles as he deemed necessary. This requisition, When approved by the board, was sent to the navy agent at the port where the vessel was fitting out, who filled it as far as possible by purchase from foreign governments or from the few private dealersinthiscountry. These purchases were afterwards supplemented during the vessel's cruise by such additions as were from time to time deemed advisa- ble by the commanding officer; and at the end of the cruise, when the vessel was put out of commission, her charts and instruments were turned in at a navy yard, where they were stowed away and no further attention was paid to them until they might be needed again. The result, of course, was that very often needed charts could not be pur- chased and delivered before the date of sailing, or instruments were placed on board without being adjusted or stand- ardized, and it was very seldom that charts so purchased had been corrected up to date. In fact, no official means then existed by which mariners could * An address before the National Geographic Society, January 16, 1903.

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62 be informed of necessary corrections to their outfits of charts. To obviate as far as possible the dan- gers to navigation resulting from such a lack of system and care, the Secretary of the Navy in 1830, upon a recommen- dation from the Board of Navy Com- missioners, directed the establishment of a depot of charts and instruments, under the charge of the late Commodore Goldsborough, then a lieutenant. This was the inception of the Hydrographic Office, the province of which for the first five years of its existence was sim- ply to purchase, correct, and keep on hand charts and instruments for our naval vessels only. It was not until 1835 that any effort was made to construct our own charts. In that year a lithographic press was purchased, and in the following year the first charts actually executed by the depot appeared for issue to thé service and merchant marine. In 1842, the bureau system of the Navy Department was established by act of Congress, the depot of charts and instruments being attached to the Bu- reau of Ordnance and Hydrography, to constitute the hydrographic branch of that bureau. Lieutenant Maury had in the mean- time been detailed to duty in this depot of charts and instruments, and in 1844, upon the completion of the Naval Observatory building (which was afterward frequently officially desig- nated as the Naval Observatory and Hydrographic Office), the depot of charts and instruments was moved into that building, Lieutenant Maury be- coming the Superintendent of the Naval Observatory and Hydrographic Office. Lieutenant Maury devoted the greater part of his energies to hydrographic subjects, and for the seventeen years during which he had charge of this office did more in the interest of the merchant marine than was accomplished by similar branches of all foreign gov- THe NaTioNAL GEOGRAPHIC MaGAZINE ernmentscombined. He began the col- lection of information from the logs of men-of-war and merchant vessels for the purpose of constructing nautical charts to show the prevailing winds and currents, their limits and characteris- tics, and, in general, the physical fea- tures of the ocean, and all facts of in- terest or value to the maritime commu- nity. This was continued during the seventeen years he remained in charge, and resulted in the issue of wind and current charts, track charts, trade-wind charts, whale feeding ground charts, thermal charts, storm and rain charts, and eight large volumes of sailing di- rections, all of which were concerned with the safe navigation of the known waters of the globe. In addition, there were issued nearly fifty charts of dif- ferent sections of the world, which were printed from engraved copper plates. On the breaking out of the civil war Maury cast his fortunes with the South, and his practical labors for the Navy and merchant marine ceased. He was succeeded by one of the most accom- plished officers in the service, the then Commander Gillis, and the Hydro- graphic Office during the four years of the civil war gained an excellent repu- tation in and out of the service through its ability to keep our war vessels sup- plied with the latest charts, nautical publications, and other necessary aids to safe navigation. The work of the office was so strictly navigational in character that shortly after the civil war began it was trans- ferred to the Bureau of Navigation, under which bureau it remained until 1898, when it was transferred to the Bureau of Equipment, under the direc- tion of which it now remains. In 1866, the year after the ending of the civil war, the connection between the Naval Observatory and the depot of charts and instruments was severed by law. Anact of Congress passed*in that year established ‘‘A Hydrographic Of- XUM

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Work oF THE U. S. HyproGrapHic OFFICE fice for the improvement of the means for navigating safely the vessels of the Navy and mercantile marine, by pro- viding, under authority of the Secretary of the Navy, accurate and cheap nauti- cal charts, sailing directions, navigators, and manuals of instructions for the use of all vessels of the United States, and for the benefit and use of navigators generally.’’ The act further provided that the Secretary of the Navy be au- thorized ‘‘to cause to be prepared,’’ in the Hydrographic Office thus created, such ‘‘maps, charts, and sailing direc- tions, and nautical books relating to and required in navigation, and to publish and furnish them to navigators at the cost of printing and paper, and to pur- chase the plates and copyrights of such existing charts, maps, sailing directions, etc., as he may consider necessary.”’ The spirit and intent of this act of Congress have been carried out from that time to this with unceasing energy and with a degree of zeal, ability, and intelligence which would reflect credit upon any branch of our government, and this has been done at the minimum of cost and under difficulties which at times seemed almost insurmountable. From the small depot of 1830, with a working force of two officers and one nautical expert, it has expanded to an establishment with a working force of nearly ninety technical and skilled em- ployees, supplemented by sixteen fully equipped branch offices at the most im- portant points on our Atlantic, Pacific, and Gulf seaboards and on the shores of our Great Lakes. SURVEYS BY OUR MEN-OF-WAR No vessel starting on a voyage is properly equipped unless her naviga- tional outfit includes accurate charts, sailing directions, light lists, and other necessary aids to navigation for all places to be visited. The Hydrographic Office is charged with producing this naviga- tional outfit of necessary charts, sailing 63 directions, etc., for all parts of the world not under the jurisdiction of the United States, and in performing this duty there is no quarter of the habitable globe the waters of some portion of which have not been surveyed by vessels of our own Navy. In general, the charts referred to are constructed from surveys made by the officers and crews of men-of-war. As there can be no question as to the ne- cessity for an accurate knowledge of the waters of the globe, our naval vessels are supplied with an outfit for hydro- graphic surveying. With their large crews, numerous boats, and with officers trained to the actual requirements of all practical navigational aids, it is clear that this service is one for which the Navy is particularly well adapted in times of peace—a service which, in general, can be performed without in- terfering with other naval requirements, and with results which inure to the benefit of all mankind. And it is a pleasure to state that the service is one which is not considered distasteful in the Navy. Frequently, due to the exigencies of diplomatic relations and for other reasons, our vessels are stationed in foreign waters for long intervals of time, during which the officers and crews generally welcome surveying work as a decided break in the monotony of their confinement to the limits of the ship. During the last fiscal year not less than 24 naval vessels engaged in practical surveying operations in many parts of the world, the results of which will be of incalculable benefit to our maritime and commercial interests. At the present time a number of our men- of-war are similarly engaged in very important localities. In addition to the resulting benefit to our maritime interests, the naval serv- ice is also materially benefited. The work tends to bring out the officer’s powers of observation of things nautical and to give him a familiarity with coast

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64 THe NarionaL work which becomes invaluable in time of war. This was well exemplified during our civil war, when the most successful blockade-runners were commanded by men, generally ex-naval ofhcers, who had been engaged in the Coast Survey in the vicinity of their blockading op- erations. If this was then true of our own coast, how much more so will it be of foreign coasts in the event of any future war! ‘This fact was also evi- denced during the late Spanish-Ameri- canwar. Nearly all of the many officers who distinguished themselves during that period, particularly those who oc- cupied ranking positions, had seen good surveying service either in the Navy or in the Coast Survey. This I have taken the liberty of demonstrating by the exhibition of a few charts—one the result of the work of Admiral Dewey, one that of Admiral Charles EK. Clark, and one that of the late Admiral John W. Philip. Lack of space only prevents exhib- iting equally work by many other of our prominent officers, but I cannot properly let the opportunity pass without calling attention to some of our many naval officers whose work in hydrographic surveying will never be forgotten: Commodore Wilkes on the Grand Banks and in the Pacific and Antarctic, Commodore Perry in the waters of Japan, Commodore Rodgers and Commanders Berry and Stockton in the North Pacific and in Bering Sea, Lieutenant Lynch in the Dead Sea, Admirals Belknap, Erben, Barker, and Tanner in the Pacific and elsewhere, and Brooke and S. P. Lee in the Atlan- tic. Captain Mahan, our most noted authority on naval subjects, was also an expert hydrographic surveyor. Ad- miral Porter and many of our most dis- tinguished naval officers of the civil war had performed good work in the Coast Survey, and Pillsbury’s work in the Gulf Stream is well known. good GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE CHART CONSTRUCTION I-shall now briefly sketch the course of chart construction. In general, a preliminary sheet of the work ‘done, prepared with accuracy and with a suf- ficient degree of delicate draftmanship to clearly demonstrate any inaccuracies as the work progresses, together with the records of astronomical observations, triangulation, topography, tides, cur- rents, etc., is forwarded from the sur- veying vessel to the Hydrographic Office, where, in the Division of Chart Con- struction, now presided over by one of the most thoroughly equipped hydro- graphic engineers in thisor any country, the work is carefully revised in every detail and a smooth sheet prepared, from which comes the working chart, either from an engraved copper plate or by a lithographic process. As soon as the finished chart is printed, all vessels of the Navy serving in the locality which it indicates are supplied therewith. ‘The merchant vessels of all nations can ob- tain it by purchase from the Hydro- graphic Office or from any of its numer- ous agents. As soon as received in the Hydro- graphic Office, the work is made.a mat- ter of record and the history of the chart commences, not to end until the chart becomes obsolete or is canceled by an- other. Every correction, alteration, or addition, with the names of all con- nected therewith, becomes a matter of record which is carefully guarded. While sometimes, for good and suffi- cient reasons, the legend on the chart does not show the authority, that infor- mation is contained in its record. GENERAL .CHARTS, COAST CHARTS, AND HARBOR CHARTS And now let us see what these charts are, what they show, and of what use they are to the mariner. Generally speaking, navigational charts are of three classes—general charts, coast and harbor charts—the coast charts, Yiinw

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Work oF THE U. S. Hyprocrapuic OFFICE charts occasionally being divided into special and general. General charts, as the name implies, cover a large territory, and are princi- pally for the use of navigators in the open sea, as in making long voyages. This class of chart is necessarily upon a small scale, and represents not only the character of the ocean bed as thus far delineated by deep-sea soundings obtained by vessels of the principal maritime nations, but also the shore lines with the most prominent topo- graphical features, the principal sea- ports, the lighthouses which are of use in off-shore navigation, all dangers in the nature of shoals, reefs, and rocks, and the lines of equal magnetic declina- tion or variation; compass stars, show- ing both true and magnetic directions in degrees and quarter points, are placed where it is thought they will be of the greatest use. On this chart the navi- gator plots his geographical positions as often as they are determined, and thus is able to keep as nearly as possible a direct course to his port of destination. This chart is kept in use until the vessel gets within the limits of the coast chart, when it is put away and replaced by the latter. Coast charts, both general and special, delineate the coasts of all countries, and for each coast are consecutive and take it! such sections of the coast as will per- mit of the use of a comparatively large scale. ‘The coast line is accurately de- lineated, as are also the principal topo- graphical features which can be used in navigation; all the lighthouses, with their peculiar characteristics; the life- saving stations, Weather Bureau sta- tions, and all the features which in any way can enable an observer by bearings, or otherwise, to determine his position. The soundings are frequent and, in gen- eral, are run out to the 1oo-fathom curve. With the aid of this coast chart, the navigator pilots his ship along shore until within the limits of the chart of 65 the harbor to which he is bound, when that replaces it. The harbor chart is on a larger scale than the others and in greater detail. Every object on shore that can be used in piloting the ship in or out of the har- bor is delineated in its correct position. Where possible, ranges to guide vessels in and out are determined and plotted upon the chart; lighthouses, range lights, buoys, beacons, and all day- marks are plotted; the positions of land- ing places, custom-houses, and public buildings of which the navigator may have occasion to know are plotted, where possible; curves of certain equal depths of water, quarantine stations and quarantine grounds, men-of-war and merchant ships’ anchorages are also clearly indicated; the magnetic declina- tion or variation is noted on one or more compass roses, and in addition the chart contains all necessary data as to the date of publication, the date of the latest cor- rection, the character of the soundings, heights, signs, and abbreviations, and all necessary tidal information. On these charts, as on coast charts, the shore lines are made especially conspicu- ous, and the topographical features rep- resented are such as will be of actual value as aids to navigation. USE OF SURVEYS BY OTHER NATIONS I have only referred to original sur- veys by our own vessels; but it must not be understood that the chart con- struction work of the Hydrographic Office ends with these. We all realize that in time of war it would be a diff- cult matter (perhaps an impossible one) to get correct navigational charts of foreign places against which our Navy might have to operate, and during peace periods it takes time to obtain the latest editions of foreigncharts. All the great maritime nations recognize the fact that it is a matter of national moment for them to be possessed of all available charts of every part of the world, and

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66 THe Nationa, GrocrRAPpHic MAGAZINE for this reason they make it a practice to use the published surveys of other Powers as data for the construction of charts of theirown. Weare compelled to do likewise, and little by little are utilizing the surveys of those foreign nations, the work of which is known to be reliable. This is a matter of dis- crimination, but experience has shown the necessity for discrimination. Many charts of the Philippines, of Cuba, and of islands of the West Indies have been found to be inaccurate. This use of foreign work is not only in the direction of a proper preparation for possible times of national peril, but in the end is a matter of economy. Were this practice not carried on, it would be necessary to purchase our charts from foreign nations—a source of supply which would be closed to us in time of war—and, when purchased, the corrections made necessary by newly discovered dangers and by changes in buoyage, ranges, lighthouses, etc., would have to be plotted by hand, which is more expensive than making the nec- essary changes on the plate from which the chart is produced. AREA COVERED BY OUR CHARTS At the present time the Hydrographic Office has in its possession nearly 1,200 engraved chart plates and about 50 photographic chart plates. These 1,250 plates have all been constructed from the results of original naval surveys ; from geographical and cartographical data reported by the commanding officers of vessels in the naval service; from information collected by the branch hydrographic offices from incoming mariners of all nationalities, and also from the geographical information that comes into the custody of the Navy Department through the prosecution of surveys by foreign governments. These charts represent about one- third of what are actually necessary for a complete set of navigational charts of the world for the use of the naval and shipping interests of the United States. Besides the projecting, drawing, en- graving, photographing, electrotyping, and printing, which constitute the cen- tral work of chart construction and chart correction, the functions of the Hydro- graphic Office embrace all that is kin- dred and contributory to the construc- tion of charts, and hence include the mathematical computations for the pro- jection, the adjustment of triangula- tions, the investigations of the tides, the discussion of observations of the mag- netic elements of the earth in their bear- ing upon charts and navigation, the com- putation of navigational tables, and the designing of instruments and machines for securing maximum of economy. Of the 1,250 or more charts that are now available for permanent issue, over 300 have been derived from original sur- veys by the U.S. Navy. These, added to the 450 or more charts that have been constructed from surveys by the Coast and Geodetic Survey, make a grand total of 750 or more navigational charts constructed from original United States surveys, a result which places our people ahead of most of the older countries and in the front rank of the most active na- tions in marine hydrographic work. It must not be understood, however, that if we were to become possessed of engraved plates representing the charts now issued by all other nations we would be able to produce navigational charts covering the world’s entire water area. Very much remains to be done before the hydrographic features of the world can be so charted as to warrant the statement that dangers to navigation due to lack of knowledge of geographic positions and correct soundings have been reduced to a minimum. There are numerous places in the West Indies which we know to be inaccu- rately charted, and this same statement applies to locations in nearly all parts of the world. In the North Pacific Ocean YIM

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Work of THE U. S. HyprocraPHic OFFICE alone there are thousands of reported dangers. Many of these are probably either inaccurately located or do not exist, but all the same they are a hin- drance to navigation through the anx- iety and loss of time which the fear of their possible existence causes to ship- masters. Fortunately, little by little the national vessels of the Great Powers are either accurately locating or disproving the existence of many of these. I am glad to say that our own naval vessels have done their share in this good work. DEEP-SEA SOUNDINGS Our knowledge of the depths of the sea is gradually increasing through the operations of deep-sea sounding expedi- tions undertaken by many nations. In this field of operations we hold a com- manding position. From a scientific point of view, a knowledge of the phys- ical characteristics of the ocean bed is most desirable, and no less so from a practical standpoint. No _ telegraph company would think of laying a sub- marine cable today without first select- ing a desirable route as determined by deep-sea soundings. The soundings of the U. S. S. Nero in the Pacific two years ago determined the route since selected for the transpacific cable. Deep-sea soundings are also of espe- cial value to the mariner, inasmuch as from their results the existence of sub- marine dangers is frequently indicated. In the Atlantic the greatest accurately known depth in the fifties was obtained by the then Lieut. S. P. Lee, in the U.S. brig Dolphin, 3,825 fathoms (4% miles). Only a year ago the now great- est known depth in the Atlantic, 4,662 fathoms (5% miles), was found by the present U. S. S. Dolphin, the first ves- sel of the new Navy. The greatest known depth in the world is in the Pacific, and is 5,269 fathoms (31,614 feet), 66 feet short of 6 statute miles. This depth was obtained by the U.S. S. Vero in 1900, and is greater than any 67 elevation on our continent, or, as far as we know, in the world. SAILING DIRECTIONS The Sailing Directions, to which I have previously referred, can properly be designated as nautical guide books— in other words, nautical Baedeckers. The coasts of the world are divided up into numerous sections, for each one of which a book of sailing directions is prepared. Thus we have Sailing Di- rections of the East Coast of South America, etc. These seamen’s guide books, when complete and used in con- nection with the corresponding naviga- tional charts, are supposed to give the mariner all the information that he may require for safely navigating the part of the world considered, and for entering and leaving each harbor or anchorage therein. When corrected to date, they give him in as much detail as possible, a knowledge of the prevailing winds and weather for each season; of the tides, currents, buoys, lights, and other day and night marks, and of proper anchor- ages. Inaddition,where possible, ranges to be used in entering and leaving port, both by day and night, are described ; prominent landmarks and other topo- graphical features are noted in detail, and everything in the way of an aid to navigation is entered therein. They even go so far as to give him infor- mation in regard to port dues, local regulations of foreign governments, diplomatic customs of the local and state authorities, the facilities for ob- taining provisions, water, and other sup- plies, and also as to obtaining necessary repairs. There is no guide book known which contains so much of practical impor- tance. In all nations these books arewrit- ten by naval officers or by others who have followed the sea for a profession— men who have had sufficiently matured practical experience to enable them to exercise proper judgment in weighing

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NATIONAL 68 THE the many varied sources of information, to reconcile conflicting statements, to set forth only the facts upon which the mar- iner can rely with confidence, and to exercise a care in their preparation com- mensurate with the interests of life and property at stake. AIDS TO NAVIGATION The aids to navigation required by mariners are numerous, but I shall only speak of those which are prepared and issued by the Hydrographic Office. With due regard to sequence, the No- tices to Mariners issued weekly by the Hydrographic Office, which particularly affect the charts and sailing directions, should be considered first. These no- tices consist of a collection of statements pertaining to safe navigation, made up in pamphlet form, which are issued weekly by the Hydrographic Office. The statements are notices themselves pertaining to every matter which is of importance to the seaman and _ navi- gator. When a new rock, shoal, or other danger is discovered and reported to the Hydrographic Office, the infor- imation is immediately published, the source and its nature being clearly set forth. The same is true of the instal- lation of new lights, changes in lights, alterations or changes in buoyage and other day marks in any part of the world, wrecks, and all subjects a know]- edge of which would tend to lessen the dangers of navigation. ‘These notices are issued in a convenient form for cut- ting out. They are distributed from the Hydrographic Office and from its numerous branch offices to all vessels of the Navy and to not less than 3,000 merchant vessels, officers of which at the present time are collecting informa- tion forthe Hydrographic Office. When received, the immediate duty of the navigator or master is to enter the cor- rections by hand on the charts affected (these charts being designated in the notices), and, in addition, to cut out GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE each notice and place it in its proper place in the Sailing Directions. You will be surprised to learn that notices affecting navigation issued by the Hy- drographic Office now amount to about fifty a week, or over 2,500a year. This does not seem so strange, however, when we take into consideration the amount of codperation which the Hydrographic Office receives in this most important aid to mariners. Cordial cooperation is afforded by the United States Engi- neers, the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, the U. S. Lighthouse Service, the U. S. Weather Bureau, the U. 5. Life-saving Service, Fish Commission, United States Consuls, hydrographic offices of foreign governments, foreign astronomical and meteorological observ- atories, our own naval vessels, and something like 3,000 ships of various nations, in which are included men-of- war of some of those nations as well. Reports to this office come in as many as fourteen different languages. In this day of high speed on the ocean you can readily understand the anxiety which the great shipping firms have in regard to the safety of their vessels, a feeling which actuates them as well as their governments to hesitate at no ex- pense to obtain such information as is contained in these notices. It is not uncommon for the Hydrographic Office to get cablegrams from abroad giving information of serious dangers to navi- gation. A glance through one of these pam- phlets would give an inkling of the dangers to which those who goto sea are subject. A fair part of these notices come through the branch hydrographic offices, which are located in sixteen of our principal ports. BRANCH HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICES These branch offices, which are in charge of naval officers, with nautical experts as assistants, are veritable bu- reaus of nautical information. They XUM

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XUM Work or THE U. S. HyproGrapHic Orrick 69 receive and distribute information, vis- iting all incoming vessels for this pur- pose, and hold themselves ready to ex- amine charts from any vessel, verifying the same or pointing out necessary cor- rections, examining and correcting in- struments, explaining nautical subjects, and in any way possible giving aid to mariners. In many cases they have even adjusted compasses. At the pres- ent time the officers at three of them are giving night lectures on navigation to shipmasters. Many of these have been called as witnesses in admiralty cases, and in general their influence in im- proving the means of safe navigation has been most marked. A time-ball service is carried on at twelve of these offices, which is taken advantage of by the masters of vessels possessing chro- nometers, thus enabling them upon go- ing to sea to feel sure of the error and rate of this most important navigational instrument. These offices place within almost im- mediate reach of ship captains all the information contained in the main office and enable the main office to obtain, with accuracy and quickness, all im- portant information brought by incom- ing vessels. ‘They have been of great benefit to shipping firms, marine in- surance companies, admiralty lawyers, and practically to all interests connected with maritime affairs. In 1880 a commander in the British Navy examined the chart outfit of three steamers and found as follows : On the first, 73 charts out of 93 needed renewal. On the second, 39 charts out of 49 needed renewal. On the third, 95 charts out of 104 needed renewal. At the present time no vessel need leave a port in which there is a United States branch hydrographic office with incorrect charts unless the captain wishes to do so. Other essencial aids to navigation are published by the Hydrographic Office, but space will not permit of a detailed description. Amongst the most im- portant can be mentioned the American Practical Navigator, a book on naviga- tion which no navigator should be with- out. This is revised frequently and the callforitiscontinuous. Frequent issues of the Lists of Lights of the World are necessary, the changes in lights all over the world being frequent and often very radical. Azimuth tables for the use of the navigator in determining his com- pass error have been issued by this office for the last twenty-odd years. The In- ternational Code of Signals, which by law all mariners are compelled to have, is an issue of this office. Publications on great-circle sailing ; means of search- ing for isolated submarine peaks; on the variation of the compass ; sunrise and sunset tables; illustrated cloud forms; matters pertaining to marine meteorology and to terrestrial magnetism are amongst the practically useful issues of this office, and all are prepared by its attachés. I can safely state that the great majority of deep-sea vessels now afloat possess some practical aid to navi- gation published by the U. S. Hydro- graphic Office. PILOT CHARTS The Pilot Charts of the North At- lantic and North Pacific, the permanent issue of which was inaugurated by the Hydrographic Office in 1883, are not navigational charts, strictly speaking, but are simply graphic illustrations of the conditions of winds,currents, wrecks, derelicts, icebergs, fogs, ete., which may reasonably be expected during the month for which the chart is issued. The primary credit for this practical aid to navigation is due to Lieutenant Maury. When, in the early forties, he started his system of collecting infor- mation in regard to winds, currents, and other matters pertaining to the ocean, it was with a view of eventually being

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79O able to predict to the mariner, with a reasonable degree of probability, all necessary meteorological data for any period of the year. For convenience, we will only con- sider the Pilot Chart of the North At- lantic, the principal references to which will also apply to the chart for the North Pacific. A short résumé of the manner in which information is collected for this chart, followed by a general description of the subject-matter, will give the best idea of its use and value. The data col- lected by Maury from 1844 to 1861 were, generally speaking, taken from the log books of vessels for individual 5° squares on the world’s water surface, and inthe majority of cases gave intormation for each hour of the day in whatever part of the world any observing vessel hap- pened to be. , About twenty years ago it was deemed adyisable to alter this system of collecting information, and the ob- servers of the office were furnished with a blank observation book, in which the data required were to be taken by all observers only once a day and at the same instant of time—Greenwich mean noon. ‘The observations thus’ recorded give the direction and force of the winds the reading of the barometer and ther- mometers, the temperature of the water, the character and percentage of cloud, visible, and the character of the sea. Immediately upon the arrival in port of a vessel taking such observations, these weather reports are sent either by mail or through the United States consul to the Hydrographic Office, where the in- formation mentioned above is plotted on a synoptic chart. This chart is di- vided into squares of 5 degrees of lati- tude and 5 degrees of longitude, and each element of information previously mentioned, except clouds and the state of the sea, is indicated in its respective square by a particularsymbol. Through inability to get the information quickly

THe NatTIionaAL GEoGRAPHIC MAGAZINE (as very frequently the record of a sail- ing vessel does not get to the Hydro- graphic Office until a long time after the observations were taken), it requires many months before all the records for any one year for each individual square can be collected and plotted. <A sepa- rate synoptic chart is used for each day in the year. Eventually each element is averaged for each month of each year during which the observations have been taken, and a mean of each month of all the years is transferred to the pilot charts proper. EXPLANATION OF NORTH ATLANTIC PILOT CHART FOR FEBRUARY, 1903 All the possibilities and recommen- dations for the coming month relating to winds, calms, fog, gales, weather forecast, barometric and thermometric data, and steamer and sailing-vessel routes are noted in blue. All mat- ter noted in red relates to what has actually occurred in the past, and is va- riable in character and not possible of prediction with any degree of certainty. For instance, the red lines, of which there are so many on the accompanying chart,* represent the paths of the centers of storms which have actually occurred during thelast five years. Derelictsand wrecks, drifting buoys, icebergs, and field ice which have been actually seen and reported during the preceding month are noted in red, the positions indicat- ing to the mariner the region in which they are likely to be found. This chart thus becomes a continuous warning to seamen for the month on the first day of which it is issued, and is of practical economic benefit, in that it operates to shorten ocean travel and to lessen dangers to life and property. The information given is considered so important that the agents of many of our great transatlantic liners telegraph * The chart is issued as a Supplement to this number of the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE,

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Work or THE U.S. Hyprocrapuic OFFICE 71 the positions of wrecks, derelicts, and ice to their hc me offices as soon as they are informed thereof by the Hydro- graphic Office or by its branch offices along our Atlantic seaboard. In order to still further aid navi- gators by giving timely notice of new dangers reported, it has been found necessary to supplement the Pilot Charts by the Hydregraphic Bulletin, which is issued weekly and gives the latest in- formation of wrecks, derelicts, ice, and other dangers to navigation. It has been found advisable, in fact necessary, to have articles from time to time on the Pilot Chart treating of some essential for the navigator in the man- agement of his vessel. Thus, during each of the cyclone months in the North Atlantic, an illustrated article is printed either on the face of the chart or, if there is not room there, on its back, explaining the nature of cyclones, the method of avoiding them, and, when caught in them, proper directions for managing a vessel. Articles on the use of oil at sea, which have been the means of saving valuable ships and of rescuing the crews of wrecked vessels; on the use of instruments necessary in navi- gation; on the features which cause disturbances of the compass, and on various methods for obtaining the posi- tions of vessels at sea and for plotting the positions near a coast, are issued whenever space and time permit. Until within the past year this Pilot Chart was unique in being the only thing of the kind published in the world; but its importance to maritime interests had been so thoroughly proved and the necessity for immediate notice of all dangers, particularly on frequently trav- eled routes, had become so evident that two other nations—England, the oldest sea power, and Germany, the young- est—took up the matter and are now issuing similar publications. I know of no government publica- tion of more interest to those who go to sea than this, and feel sure that you will agree with me after a short résumé of what it actually does for the mariner. Let us consider the chart for the month of February, 1903. In the upper left-hand corner of the accompanying Pilot chart is a fog inset chart, which is divided into 1° squares, each one of which contains a number which indicates the percentage of days of each month—~. ¢., the number of days in each one hundred—in which the weather may reasonably be expected to be foggy, these percentages being the result of thousands of observations for years back. They are only probabilities, but they are good probabilities, and the sailor makes use of them. But a short time ago the captain of the flagship Brooklyn told me that when conveying the remains of the late Lord Pauncefote to England last summer, the season of maximum fog frequency, he followed the fog forecast of the Pilot Chart for the month and found it reliable. None but those in charge of vessels can understand what a fog at sea means. The sense is the nearest approach to that of blindness that I can imagine. One can see for some distance at night; but in a thick fog such as what is known as the blue fog of our northern waters—a fog which is said by old salts to be as thick as mud—the sense of sight fails and that of hearing is brought into in- tense play. But even the latter sense fails under certain circumstances, such as on a high-speed steamer, where the noise of the engines and the swash of the vessel’s hull through the water shut off all but unusually loud sounds. In a late admiralty collision case—the cutting down of a sailing vessel by a steamer—the evidence showed that while the people on the sailing vessel had heard the steamer’s whistle for 20 minutes before the collision, the officers of the steamer had at no time heard the fog-horn of the sailing vessel. The same of the sub-chart of gales,

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THe NatTIoNAL 72 which is below that of fog, in which percentages for a force of 8 and over of the Beaufort’s scale—from 40 to 100 miles an hour—are given in 5° squares. No vessel other than a regular high- powered liner, unless absolute necessity demands, takes a route in which such gales are frequent, on account of the danger to life and property, the wear on the vessel, and the consequent delay. This sub-chart tells them the only things they want to know—how to avoid the stormy area and what route to choose. The best routes for low-powered steamers, from the English Channel to the Gulf and from Gibraltar to New York, are also shown. ‘The latter, for instance, is longer in distance than a direct route. Experience has shown, however, that by reason of encounter- ing more favorable winds, seas, and cur- rents, it is shorter in time, with much less wear and tear on the vessel and crew. Down in the lower left-hand corner are some red symbols to designate ice- bergs and field ice. No bergs or field ice were reported during January, so none are indicated on the accompanying chart. On the pilot charts of the sum- mer months, however, the region above and about the Grand Banks is dotted with these little red symbols. If we were issuing a pilot chart of the south Atlantic Ocean for this month, these ice symbols would be very numerous in its southern portion. You may remember that it was not many years ago that we had frequent reports of vessels colliding with. ice- bergs ; but such is now very much less the case, principally due, I feel that I can say with absolute truthfulness, to the efforts of the Hydrographic Office, as a result of which the transatlantic lines were, some years ago, induced to adopt regular lanes of transit to and from England and the United States— lanes which take them over a safer route, in that it is practically clear of ice. GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Over on the right-hand side of the pilot chart is a sub-chart of isobars and isotherms for the month of February, showing the average heights of barom- eter and temperature to be expected, and indicating, by reference to the areas of low and high barometer, what move- ment of the atmosphere may generally be looked for. ‘The intelligent mariner knows that any marked deviation from these normal values denotes a change in weather. Above this sub-chart will be found a forecast—not a prediction—of the weather, the average of thousands of observations taken during the past fif- teen years. The main or sea part of the chart is divided up into 5° squares, in the center of each one of which will be found a small circle from which radiate arrows, each one pointing towards the center. ‘These arrows indicate the di- rection in which winds may be expected to blow, the number of feathers indicat- ing the force by Beaufort’sscale. Take the example noted in blue under the heading of ‘‘ Prevailing Winds and Calms,’’ at the bottom of the chart on the left side. The arrows fly with the wind, and the number of hours in each one hundred during which the wind may be expected to blow from that direction is found by transferring the length of the arrow to the scale below, the number of feathers indicating the force. ‘Thus, in this example, we will in each one hundred hours expect to find a northeast wind with a force of 3 for 18 hours; an east wind, force of 3 for 10 hours; a southeast wind, force of 4 for 24 hours; a south-south- east wind, force of 3 for 25 hours, and a southwest wind, force of 3 for 10 hours. The figure 13 within the cen- tral circle indicates 13 hours of calms, light airs, and variable winds. The small black arrows point out the average set of currents, whether regular or drift.

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XUM Work or THE U.S. HyproGrapHic OFFICE 73 The long red lines on the face of the chart represent paths of the centers of well-determined storms which have oc- curred in previous years during the month of February. ‘Tropical cyclones do not occur on the north Atlantic dur- ing this mouth, but storms of great vio- lence are frequent. From an examina- tion it is plainly evident that an average storm track for the month would be of no practical vaiue ; but these of previous years are most useful as, if from indica- tions of weather, sea, and barometer, the seaman finds himself on or near the track of one of these, he has good rea- son to suppose that he will experience a similar one. DERELICTS Notice the symbols for derelicts and wrecks at the lower left-hand corner and observe the large number of these obstructions on the body of the chart. These, with icebergs and fogs, and par- ticularly a combination of all three, give the mariner the greatest anxiety. ach one of these constitutes a menace to life and property, most dangerous because not plotted on any other chart nor marked in any manner. Those symbols on the chart which are bot- tom up give warning of especially dan- gerous derelicts, the kind that show so little surface above water as not to be seen, even in daylight, until close at hand. We read too often of vessels which have put to sea and never been heard of afterward, and we can easily imagine that some of them have been lost through collision with these floating dangers. A collision with an abandoned vessel laden with either coal, iron ore, or steel rails would materially damage any vessel afloat. Only a few years ago a large Dutch transatlantic liner struck a submerged wreck which broke her propeller and probably stove a hole in her bottom. The steamer was abandoned in a sink- ing condition, but fortunately not be- fore another steamer had come along and rescued the passengers and crew. During one interval of seven years the total number of derelicts reported amounted to 1,628, of which 482 had been identified by name. ‘This means an average of1g per month —that is, it is reasonable to believe that there are never less than 19 of these floating dangers in the north Atlantic all the time, and the records of the Hydrographic Office show that the average time a derelict remains afloat is about thirty days. The identi- fied ones are easily followed and their tracks plotted on the pilot chart from month to month. <A few remarkable instances of ocean crift may be inter- esting. A three-masted schooner, 7he Fannie f:. IVolston, was abandoned on October 15, 1891, and frequently seen after that for 1,101 days—three years and six days—at the end of which time, after traveling about g,ooo miles, she was lost sight of. Take the case of the lumber-laden schooner II”. Z. IVhite. She was aban- doned waterlogged about 80 miles off the capes of the Delaware during the great blizzard of March, 1888. She drifted 5,g10 miles, following the Gulf Stream a good way across the At- lantic, and about eleven months later stranded on one of the Hebrides, hav- ing been sighted and reported forty-five times during the interval. For over six months of this time she was a con- stant menace to our transatlantic com- merce. And another interesting case is that of the ship /7ed 2. Taylor, which was cut in two by a steamer, the two parts remaining afloat. Strange to say, these parts separated, the stern drifting to the northward and going ashore on the Maine coast forty-six davs later, and the bow drifting to the southward and being lost sight of off the Maryland coast seventy-two days later. From September, 1889, up to the

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74 present time the Hydrographic Office has received reports of 127 collisions with ice, derelicts, and wreckage in the north Atlantic alone, and others probably occurred which were never heard of. The Navy Department exercises an espionage over all wrecks and derelicts on our Atlantic seaboard which are out- side of the three-mile limit, and when deemed necessary sends vessels out to destroy them or tow them in. During the past year 38 dangerous obstructions were hunted for on our coast by vessels of the Navy, of which number 15 were located and destroyed. It is to be re- gretted that no international legislation provides for the destruction of such dan- gers in the broad ocean. This pilot chart keeps our Weather Bureau’s storm signals before the mar- iner, tells him where to find our branch hydrographic offices, and gives him no excuse for not knowing what charts are published, canceled, or extensively cor- rected. THE VALUE OF THE PILOT CHARTS TO SHIPPERS I think you will now admit that, as far as our government is concerned, the mariner is fairly well looked out for. Our Weather Bureau watches over him while in our home ports, and the Hydro- graphic Office does all possible to guide and guard him while at sea. Many complimentarycommunications on the work of this office have been re- ceived from outside ourown country, one of which I feel justified in reading to you, as it is from the highest maritime authority in the world—the British Lloyd’s: Luoyp’s, 78th July, 1902. Str: I am instructed to express to you the best thanks of the Committee of Lloyd’s for the Pilot Chart of the North Pacific, which is forwarded to this office periodically by your instruc- This chart is believed to be of tions. THe NaTIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE great value to mariners navigating the waters of the North Pacific, and I am directed to inquire whether there is any intention on the part of the Hydro- graphic Bureau to have a similar chart constructed for the South Pacific.* I am, sir, your obedient servant, Jas. M. HOzZIkrEr, Secretary. The Chief of the Hydrographic Bureau, Washington. Last month’s Nautical Magazine con- tained a copy of a speech in the House of Lords by Lord Ellenborough, urging the printing of tables by which the cen- tering error of a sextant could be deter- mined at anytime. In concluding this speech Lord Ellenborough quoted an ex- tract from a letter from the late Captain Lecky, whose publication ‘‘ Wrinkles in Navigation’’ made him famous. The quotation was as follows: ‘*T certainly think the Nautical Al- manac ought to undertake the star dis- tances; but you will probably find the United States Hydrographic Office will doit. They have no hesitation in un- dertaking anything they think worth doing, whereas our people take a few years to think about it.’’ ; Having thus sketched the work of the Hydrographic Office, it becomes my pleasure to say that the results achieved by this office are due to the intelligent, zealous, systematic, and painstaking ef- forts of as competent an office force as can be found in any similar office in any country. Some are graduates of the Naval Academy, and these, with many others, are practically devoting ‘their lives to this good work. In conclusion, I hope that I have made it clear that the mission of the Hydrographic Office is to provide for the safe navigation of American ship- * The Hydrographic Office is considering the plan of publishing Pilot Charts of both the South Pacific and South Atlantic Oceans. Itis hoped that in the near future it may be feas- ible to publish these additional Pilot Charts. Editor. Yiind

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Wuy Great SAaLt LAKE Has FALLEN ping in all foreign waters by obtaining and disseminating necessary information on all nautical subjects, a knowledge of which tends to reduce the dangers of navigation to a minimum. ‘This also means that its work is a practical prepar- ation for war, inasmuch as the results form a safeguard for our Navy the im- WHY GREAT SALT By kL. A: SECTION DIRECTOR, U. HE rapid decline in the water level of Great Salt Lake during the past few years has caused the people of northern Utah, and more especially those of Salt Lake City, to feel considerable apprehension lest this remarkable body of water will soon be athing of the past. The reading of the gage at Garfield Beach on December 1, 1902, was 3 feet 5 inches below the zero of the scale, showing a fall of 11 feet 7 inches since the close of 1886, the year in which the last rise terminated, and a level between three and four feet below that of 1847. The water level of a closed lake may be affected by a change in the general inclination of its basin, and will fall as the result of increased temperature, de- creased relative humidity, shortage in precipitation, or increased evaporation as a result of spreading the water from inflowing streams over the soil for irri- gation or any other purpose. The present fall in the lake is evi- dently due to a combination of shortage in precipitation and the loss of water through irrigation, but the shortage in precipitation is undoubtedly the pre- dominating factor. The present area of the lake is about 1,750 square miles, and its drainage r? portance of which cannot be over- estimated. There can be no question as to the necessity for this work when we con- sider that even now, with our far-reach- ing distribution of aids to navigation, no less than 5,000 lives, on an average, are lost at sea each year. LAKE HAS FALLEN MurpocH S. WEATHER BUREAU basin is about twenty times that area. The normal annual precipitation for the entire drainage basin is about 14 inches, and the annual evaporation from the surface of the lake is about 5 feet. The report of the Twelfth Census shows that in 1899 the amount of land irrigated in the basin of the lake was 609 square miles, which is a trifle more than double that under irrigation in 1889. Flynn’s table giving the duty of water in irrigating shows that for Utah the duty is 2.38 acre inches for rodays, which is 23.80 acre inches for roo days, or the irrigation season. The writer is not aware that any experiments have been made in northern Utah to deter- mine the loss of irrigation water by evaporation and percolation. The soil in the drainage basin of the Great Salt Lake is generally a sandy loam, which would favor quite rapid percolation, but not very rapid evaporation. Judging from the results obtained in other states, and making due allowance for the low relative humidity of this region, it is believed that 12 inches for evapora- tion and the growing plant is an ample allowance. This would leave 11.80 inches to be returned to the lake or its tributaries by subterranean courses. The present area of the lake is nearly

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76 three times that of the land under irri- gation. With precipitation at normal, the loss of 12 acre inches of water by means of irrigation should therefore produce the first year a fall of four inches in the lake level, and a decreas- ing fall every year thereafter until a balance would be reached between the area of the lake and the amount of water it received, when no further fall would occur as a result of irrigation. The problem is necessarily a very in- tricate one, and at best only general results can be obtained from the most careful calculations. The writer, how- ever, feels confident that irrigation can- not be charged with more than three or four feet of the last decline in the lake It should be borne in mind that irrigation began in 1848, and was in operation during the years the lake rose rapidly and maintained a high level. The precipitation data for Salt Lake City, including that for Ft. Douglas, are complete back to 1863, with the excep- tion of 1866, and that has been approx- imated at 22.25 inches. The average precipitation for this locality, using all the data up to the close of 1901, is 16.65 level. inches. From 1865 to 1886 a wet cycle pre- vailed, and during that time the average annual precipitation was 18.42 inches, or 1.77 inches above the normal. From 1887 to 1902 a dry cycle has prevailed, the average precipitation during this period, estimating the precipitation for December of 1902 at normal, being 14.80 inches, or 1.85 inches below normal. During the wet cycle the lake rose rapidly from about 3 feet in 1864 to about 13 feet in 1868. A decline then followed, but the reading was nearly 13 feet again in 1876. The last rise ter- minated in 1886, when the level of 9 feet 2 inches was reached. Since 1887 there has been a steady decline in the level, the total fall from the close of 1886 to the close of 1902 being nearly 12 feet. THe NatTionaAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE With the annual precipitation reduced to 14.80 inches at Salt Lake City, the lake would not fall without limit, but after a number of years, as in the.case of the loss resulting from irrigation, a balance would be reached between the area of the lake and its inflow and the decline would thereupon terminate. The fall in lake level has been much more rapid during the past three years than for any like period during the pre- ceding years of drouth. ‘This is mainly due to the fact that the deficiency in precipitation has been greater during this period than during any similar period of the present dry cycle. The precipitation record at Salt Lake City for 1901 does not fairly represent con- ditions for the entire basin. From May 2 to 4 4.08 inches of rain fell there, but the excessive rainfall covered only Salt Lake, Davis, and small portions of ad- joining counties, about one-twentieth of the basin, while the rainfall for other portions was comparatively light. The rise in the lake during the two weeks ended May 15 was only 1 inch, no more than would be expected though no pre- cipitation had occurred. If the precip- itation at Salt Lake City for 1901 were to be approximated from that of the rest of the basin, it would have to be placed at about 13 inches. This would make the deficiency for the last three years alone over 13 inches. The lake is not alone in showing the effects of thedrouth. Streams, springs, and artesian wells are drying up, and those which continue active are dis- charging much less water than afew years ago. While it is difficult to demonstrate mathematically just how much fall in the lake level is due to irrigation and how much to a shortage in precipita- tion, it seems to the writer that the large deficiency of 29.60 inches in precipita- tion during the past sixteen years, as shown by the Salt Lake City records, must be far more of a factor than any

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GeEoGRAPHIC NotEss possible loss of water resulting from irrigating 609 square miles of land. Drier weather than that which has prevailed during the past sixteen years has never been known in Utah, and this is a pretty good indication that the pre- cipitation for the next sixteen years will not average less than for the past six- teen. Even with precipitation continuing at about 15 inches, no further fall in the lake will occur, and if the annual pre- cipitation is as much as 15 inches for the next three years, a slight rise may be expected. Excessive precipitation is not drawn upon for irrigation, and its loss from evaporation is much less in proportion than that of normal or deficient precipi- tation. The result is that when exces- sive precipitation occurs the lake re- ceives nearly all of the excess, and therefore rises rapidly. vr The question naturally arises, How long will the present dry cycle con- tinue? In an article entitled ‘‘ Precipi- tation Cycles,’’ recently published, the writer has pretty conclusively shown that weather about as dry as that in progress prevailed in Utah from about 1827 to 1864, a period of thirty-seven years. While it is known that a cycle of dry weather is followed by a number of years of excessive precipitation, and this in turn by another dry cycle, it is not believed that these recurring periods are of equal length. The past in this regard, with our present knowledge and accumulation of data, is therefore no index to the future. A wet cycle like that which began in 1865 may begin next year, or it may not begin for fifty or more years. When it does occur the lake will respond rapidly and reach levels nearly as high as those recorded in the sixties and seventies. GEOGRAPHIC NOTES AMERICAN CLAIMS IN THE ANTARCTIC URING the first half of the nine- teenth century numerous Amer- ican seamen explored portions of the South Polar regions and made many and important discoveries there. They named a number of places, and in sev- eral instances the lands they discovered were called afterthem. With the pres- ent reawakened interest in the Antarc- tic, it is imperatively necessary that American geographers should see to it that American Antarctic discoverers re- ceive due recognition for their discov- eries, and that American names should not be crowded off Antarcticcharts. It is a pleasure to state that the British Admiralty, in its official charts Nos. 1238 and 1240, shows a desire to be per- fectly fair to American explorers, a statement which unfortunately cannot be made of the authors of many semi- official or private English charts. For instance, on the charts in ‘‘ The Ant- arctic Manual’”’ of 1go1, of all of Wilkes’ discoveries only ‘‘ Knox Land’’ is marked, and all other American names, including that of Wilkes, are omitted. In East Antarctica the name ‘‘ Wilkes Land,’’ and also the names given by Wilkes, ‘‘ Ringgold Knoll, Eld Peak, Reynolds Peak, Cape Hudson, Point Case, Point Alden, Piner Bay, Cape Carr, North Land, Totten Land, Budd Land, Knox Land,’’ should certainly be marked on all atlases. In West Ant- arctica there are two American names which require prominent places, ‘‘Pal- mer Land and Pendleton Bay.’’ WNa- thaniel B. Palmer was probably the dis- coverer, and certainly the first explorer of the north coast of West Antarctica,

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78 and Benjamin Pendleton, before 1828, discovered a great bay or strait on the coast which, not before 1832, received the name of Graham Land. It would be a great help in obtaining justice for American explorers if an official chart of the Antarctic could be prepared by the United States Hydro- graphic Office, so as to place officially before the world American claims in the Antarctic, and the National Geographic Society could do no more important work in the next few years than to in- sist that proper recognition be given to distinguished American Antarctic ex- plorers, and that their names be com- memorated by remaining attached to their discoveries. EDWIN SWIFT BALCH. RECLAMATION OF ARID LAND IN CALIFORNIA HE greatest opportunity for the reclamation of arid lands in Cali- fornia, and perhaps in the entire South- west, has been found to lie in the utiliza- tion of the waters of the Colorado River on its adjacent lands in California and southern Arizona. As a result of an investigation along this river, made by the hydrographic branch of the United States Geological Survey, the extent of the alluvial bottom land between Camp Mohave and Yuma was found to be from 400,000 to 500,000 acres. Extended surveys were begun November 1, 1902, to determine the area and quality of these bottom lands, the possibility of diverting water to them, and the probable expense of their reclamation. To this end a hydrographic survey of the region was begun, including the gaging of the river, the location of canal lines, soil analysis, and the determination of silt and evapo- ration; and a topographic map of the lands upon which distribution systems may be considered was made. ‘This map, on which the topographic features are clearly and accurately shown, will be THe NaTIoNAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE of great value in assisting engineers to locate the main canal lines, and is essen- tial to a comprehensive knowledge of the river asa whole. About one hundred men are engaged in these investigations for the United States Geological Survey, Mr E. T. Perkins being in charge of the engineering field work, Mr E. C. Bar- nard in charge of the topographic map- ping, and Mr J. B. Lippincott, resident hydrographer for California, consulting engineer on investigations. The demands for irrigation in the Col- orado Valley are urgent. The average rainfall at Camp Mohave is only 5.99 inches per annum, and at Yuma it is 3.06 inches per annum, while the tem- peratures are such as to provide twelve growing months inthe year. ‘The Col- orado River derives its principal source of water supply from the melting snow on the high mountains of Utah, Colo- rado, and Wyoming. It reaches the stage of maximum flow, approximately 50,000 cubic feet per second, in the months of May and June, when the de- mand for irrigation is normally the high- est; its minimum flow, about 4,000 cubic feet per second, occurs in the months of January and February, at the time of least demand. The opportunities for storage on this stream are very great. The silts of the river are difficult to handle in canals; but the fertilizing properties which they have are such that lands irrigated with these muddy waters will never require further fertili- zation. Mr R. H. Forbes, of the Agricultural Experiment Station at Tucson,’ Ariz., who has made a study of the silt in the Colorado River, has pointed out that this stream resembles the Nile in many particulars. Like the great river of Egypt, the Colorado is subject to an an- nual summer rise sufficient to overflow the extensive areas of its borders and deltalands. These high waters are rich in fertilizing sediments, are exception- ally free from alkaline salts, and come XUM

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GeocrRAPHIC Nores at an opportune time for irrigation. Mr Forbes maintains that when the Col- orado is understood and utilized as suc- cessfully as the greater and better-known Egyptian stream, it will be recognized as the American Nile—the creator of a new country for the irrigator, the mother of an occidental Egypt. ALASKAN BOUNDARY DISPUTE Y the terms of a treaty signed Janu- ary 24 by Secretary Hav and the British Ambassador, the Alaskan bound- ary dispute is to be referred to a special commission or tribunal consisting of three jurists from the United States and three from Canada. The vote of four members of the commission will be a binding decision. This is the plan origi- nally proposed by the American members of the Joint High Commission, but which was rejected at that time by the British Commissioners. ‘The Senate will doubtless ratify the treaty, so that this vexing question of the interpretation of the treaty of 1825, raised by Great Britain for the first time in 1898 after the American interpretation had been accepted for 73 years without a protest or complaint, will soon be settled. In this connection attention should be again directed to the masterly discussion of the dispute by Hon. John W. Foster, ex- Secretary of State and of the Joint High Commission, in the November, 1899, number of the NATIONAL, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE. RECENT MAPS AND PUBLICATIONS BY THE U. S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY HE latest and most complete repre- sentation of the physical features of southern Indiana are found in a series of topographic map sheets issued by the Survey and known as the Degonia Springs, Boonville, and Belton sheets— each sheet being named froma prominent place appearing on it—and covering por- 79 tions of Warwick, Spencer, Dubois, Pike, Gibson, and Vanderburg counties. As a part of its investigation of the coal-producing regions of the country, the Survey has also issued, as Geologic Folio No. 84, a series of maps covering the larger portion of the coal region in- cluded in the First Congressional District of Indiana. The quadrangular area cov- ered embraces nearly 1,000 square miles, and includes parts of Pike, Vanderburg, Warrick, Spencer, and Dubois counties. The Survey, in cooperation with the State of Maine, has recently issued a new map of the region surrounding the entrance to the Penobscot River, known as the Castine quadrangle. The map differs from the charts issued by the Coast and Geodetic Survey in giving the details of features on the islands and the mainland, whereas the latter maps are confined almost exclusively to the marine features of the region—sound- ings, channels, and the outlines of the coast. A topographic map of the region em- bracing Ticonderoga, in New York and Vermont, has been issued by the Sur- vey. It is the result of a survey made in cooperation with the State of New York. A map of East Liverpool and Wells- ville, Ohio, and vicinity will be issued at an early date. ‘The surveys were in chargeof Van H. Manning, topographer, who completed the mapping of an area comprising 225 square miles along the Ohio River, which will include portions of Ohio, West Virginia, and Pennsyl- vania. A detailed topographic map has been issued of a portion of the San Bernar- dina Valley, California, noted as one of the most highly developed irrigation districts in the country. A reprint has been made of the map covering the famous Franklin Furnace Mining region in New Jersey. Recent publications by the Survey include:

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80 ‘Development and application of Water near San Bernardino, Colton, and Riverside, California,’’ by J. B. Lippin- cott, resident hydrographer for the State of California. Mr Lippincott presents some striking instances of what may be done byirrigation. On land that fifteen years ago was worth barely 75 cents an acre as a sheep pasture now flourish, as a result of irrigation, orchards of orange and citrous trees yielding a net revenue of $100 an acre. ‘‘Sewage Pollution in the Streams Adjacent to New York City,’’ by Mar- shall O. Leighton; a discussion of the incalculable damage to property along the Passaic River of New Jersey, and along the streams flowing into the upper Hudson by discharge of city sewage. ‘‘The Possibilities of Increasing the Water Supply of Central Washington,’’ by F. C. Calkins, of the hydrographic division of the Survey. ‘Geology of the Globe Copper Dis- trict, Arizona,’’ by Dr Frederick L. Ransome. TIMBER LINES A N interesting paper on ‘‘ Timber Lines’’ was presented by Prof. Israel C. Russell to the recent meeting in Washington, D. C., of the Gelogical Society of America. The following is an abstract of the address : ‘““*’Timber line,’ as commonly de- fined, is the upper limit of arboreal veg- etation on mountains. Its position is determined mainly by the occurrence of a mean annual temperature of about 32 degrees Fahrenheit, but locally its ele- vation is regulated by soil conditions and by differences between various lo- calities in snow-fall, severity of winter storms, exposure to the sun, etc. It may with propriety be termed the ‘cold timber-line.’ Above it on high moun- tains there is commonly a region occu- pied by alpine flowers, and still higher a region of perpetual snow. When Tue NartrionaL GreocraPpHic MAGAZINE traced from warm to colder regions or, in general, from the equator toward either pole, it becomes lower and lower. In North America it descends nearly to sea-level in Alaska and northern Can- ada, where it defines the northern limit of the subarctic forest and becomes the ‘continental timber-line,’ to the north of which lie the barren grounds and tundras, which correspond to the zone of alpine flowers on lofty mountains in temperate latitudes. ‘*On some of the mountain ranges of the arid portion of the United States there is a lower limit of tree growth, the position of which is determined in the main by insufficient moisture, and locally by soil conditions, including the presence of alkali, hot winds, forest fires, exposure to the sun, etc. This may be termed the ‘dry timber-line’. Below it are treeless, grass-covered plains and valleys. On the mountains of central Idaho, the cold timber-line is sharply drawn at an elevation of about 10,000 feet, while the dry timber-line, equally well defined, has an elevation of about 7,000 feet; between the two there is a belt of forest trees which en- circles the mountains. In southeastern Oregon, Nevada, southern California, etc., where the climate is excessively arid, the dry timber-line is higher than in Idaho, and in certain localities meets the cold timber-line, and the mountains are bare of trees from base to summit. The dry timber-line decreases in ele- vation when traced from arid to humid regions. In the central part of the con- tinental basin of North America,, it de- fines the border of the treeless portion of the Great Plateaus and the prairie plains, and at the north coincides with the southern limit of the subarctic forest. On the borders of the treeless plateaus and the prairie plains the posi- tion of the margin of the encircling forest is determined mainly by lack of moisture, but is varied locally by soil conditions, hot winds, forest fires, etc., XUM

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GEOGRAPHIC NorTeEs in the same manner that the lower limit of tree growth on the mountains of arid region is regulated. ‘‘ When the humidity is sufficient for the growth of trees, as for example on the mountains of New England, the dry timber-line disappears. An arid region may be bordered at a lower ele- vation by a region with sufficient hu- midity to permit trees to grow, and may then be bordered both above and below by the dry timber-line, as is the case in southern Idaho. Where an arid region reaches sea-level, as in Ari- zona, southern California, and the west coast of Mexico, etc , there is no forest below the arid belt, and in certain localities the dry timber-line meets the cold timber-line, and the mountains are bare of trees from sea-level to their summits. ‘“There is also a third general cause which draws a limit to timber growth, namely, excessive humidity, as for ex- ample on the borders of swamps, the margins of lakes, etc., which may per- haps be termed the ‘wet timber line. ’’ RECLAMATION OF THE HIGH PLAINS HE efforts of the hydrographic branch of the United States Geo- logical Survey are being directed to the discovery of sufficient water to lead to the reclamation and habitation of that area of the Great Plains lying west of the prairies and east of the Rocky Moun- tains, commonly known as the High Plains. ‘The section is admirably suited to agriculture and grazing except for its inadequate water supply, which is so uncertain that great areas of fertile land lie quite uninhabited. This is especially true of the regions lying between the river valleys which cross it at wide intervals. These broad intervalley plateaus are practically wa- terless, but it has been discovered that water may be had from underground sources by wells and windmills, and it 81 has been demonstrated that, while the region may not be largely reclaimable by irrigation, it may be successfully used for grazing by creating stock- watering points at comparatively close intervals. It will, however, be difficult, if not impossible, for the grazers to raise anything besides fodder cane of the drought-resisting varieties, such as Kaffhir corn. Vegetables and other pro- ducts will, for the most part, probably have to be grown elsewhere. The river valleys, on the other hand, seem destined to be extensively culti- vated by irrigation, the water for which will be pumped from the gravels of the river beds, where an underflow has been known to continue in the summer season after the rivers themselves have ceased torun. These areas will furnish garden produce for the ranches on the plateau, and in this manner make the region asa whole habitable. ‘The details of this investigation, with exhaustive studies of the nature of the underground waters of the High Plains, appear in the Twenty- first and Twenty-second Annual Reports of the United States Geological Survey, the latter of which is now in press and will soon be issued. Commander Robert E. Peary, at a recent meeting of the Geographical Society of Phijadelphia, declared that he was willing to lead another expedition in search of the North Pole if some wealthy Arctic enthusiast was ready to put up $150,000 to finance the expedition. Mr Peary believes that by making Cape Hekla the base, as outlined in the last number of this Magazine, the Pole could be reached, but it would take two years to do it. The U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey Steamer Blake, commanded by Capt. R. L. Faris, arrived at San Juan, Porto Rico, January 27, and reports a success- ful series of daily magnetic observations aboard ship on the passage between the

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8 2 Capes of the Chesapeake and San Juan, Porto Rico. These observations were made under the direction of Prof. L. A. Bauer, Chief of the Magnetic Division of the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey. Mr William Ziegler authorizes this Mag- . azine to announce that he intends tosend forth another north polar expedition this summer. The party will go north on the America. ‘The personnel of the ex- pedition is not yet complete so that a list of the members cannot now be given. Two maps of Guatemala, each on the scale of 12.5 miles to one inch, have re- cently been published by the Bureau of American Republics. In addition to names of towns, volcanoes, railways, telegraph stations, etc., one map shows the approximate location of minerals in Guatemala, and the other the general elevation and the agricultural features of the country. The Carnegie Institution has made a grant of $5,000 for the purposes of ex- ploration; also a grant of $12,000 for geologic exploration. The report of the Brown-Howard Ex- pedition to Labrador in 1900, by Prof. FE. B. Delabarre, has been published by the Geographical Society of Philadel- phia. It forms a handsome volume of 212 pages. NOTICE ERSONS who have copies of the following numbers of the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE and who are willing to sell them will confer a favor by writing to the National Geographic Society : Vol. I, nos. 2 and 4 and index. Vol. II, no. 2. VO. IV, nos. 3, 3, 4; 4, 5, 6, 7. Vol. X, no. 6 and index. Vol. XIII, no. 1. THe NaTionaL GkroGRAPHIC MAGAZINE DECISIONS OF THE U. S. BOARD ON GEOGRA PHIC NAMES December 3, 1902 Arabella; island (Canadian) in the St Law- rence River, near Clayton, Jefferson County, New York (not Ambella nor Amelia). Behestian ; township, Ouachita County, Ar- kansas (not Behrstian). Brakel; creek, Chenango and Cortland Coun- ties, New York (not Brackel nor Braket). Canadarago ; lake, Otsego County, New York (not Schuyler). Cape Rosier; post-office, Hancock County, Maine (not Cape Rozier). Catatonk ; creek, post-office, and railroad sta- tion, Tioga County, New York (not Cata- tunk). Channahatchee ; creek, Elmore County, Ala- bama (not Cedar). Diddell; post-office and _ railroad station, Dutchess County, New York (not Didell). Freeo ; bayou, Douglas and Ouachita Counties, and township, Ouachita County, Arkansas (not Frio) Grenell; island in St Lawrence River, and post-office, Jefferson County, New York (not Grennell, Grinnell, nor Stuart). Heart ; island in St Lawrence River, Jefferson County, New York (not Hart nor Hem- lock). Ionia ; post-office, railroad station, and village, Ontario County, New York (not Millers Corners). Lake of the Isles; lake on Wellesley Island, St Lawrence River, Jefferson County, New York (not Waterloo). ’ Leek ; island (Canadian), St Lawrence River, near Grindstone Island, Jefferson County, New York (not Leak nor Leaks). Little Tobehanna; creek, Schuyler County, New York (not Little Tobyhanna). Lounsberry ; locality, post-office, and railroad station, Tioga County, New York (not Canfields Corners). McGraw ; post-office, railroad station, and vil- lage, Cortland County, New York (not McGrawville). Millen; bay, St Lawrence River, Jefferson County, New York (not Mellen nor Mil- lens). Mud ; lake, Jefferson County, New York (not Edmund nor Edmonds). Nowadaga; creek, Herkimer County, New York (not Indian Castle nor Nouadaga). Ocquionis ; creek, Otsego and Herkimer Coun- ties, New York (not Fish). Osburn ; post-office and railroad station, Sho- shone County, Idaho (not Osborne). Petri; post-office and railroad station, Han- cook County, Kentucky (not Petrie nor Petri Station). XLIM

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GEOGRAPHIC Philomel ; creek, Jefferson County, New York (not Phileman nor Philemon). Salubrious; point, Lake Ontario, Jefferson County, New York (not Vesuvius). Savilton; locality and _ post-office, Orange County, New York (not Savil, Savill, nor Saville). Shadow ; brook, Otsego County, New York (not East Springfield). Stanbro ; village, Chenango County, New York (not Stambro). Sterling ; township, Vernon County, Wiscon- sin (not Stirling). Socapatoy ; creek, precinct, and village, Coosa County, Alabama (not Socapartoy, Socco- potoy, nor Sucapatova). Terlingua; creek, post-office, and village, GEOGRAPHIC J. S. Diller is the author of two reports recently published by the U. S. Geologi- cal Survey—‘‘ The Geology of Crater Lake National Park’’ and ‘‘ Topo- graphic Development of the Klamath Mountains.’’ ‘The former tells the geo- logical history of the only crater lake in the United States. The lake and sur- rounding country in May, 1902, was dedicated by Congress as a national park. ‘The latter describes the develop- ment of the Klamath Mountains of Cali- fornia, a range which includes a number of peaks varying from 7,000 to over g,000 feet. The reports contain some remarkably fine illustrations. “Commercial India in 1902” is the title of a recent monograph prepared by the Treasury Bureau of Statistics. This report shows that the commerce of India in 1902 was largerthan that of any pre- ceding year in itshistory. India ranks sixth in the list of world’s exporting nations. Its exports reached $382,000, ooo in the fiscal year ending March 31, 1902. India is one of the comparatively few countries of the world whose exports exceed imports, the exports of India in 1902 exceeding the value of its imports by $127,000,000, which is a larger ex- cess of exports than that of any other country except the United States. The LITERATURE 8 3 Brewster County, Texas (not Latis Langua» Tarlinga, Tasa Lingo, Terlinga, nor Ter~ lingo). Tobehanna; creek, Schuyler County, New York (not Tobyhanna nor Big Tobyhanna). Travelers Rest ; post-office and precinct, Coosa County, Alabama (not Travellers Rest). Tygart; river, West Virginia (not Tygarts Valley nor Valley). Vanduzer ; post-office and railroad station, Ouachita County, Arkansas (not Vanduser nor Van Duzer). Volcan ; mountains, San Diego County, Cali- fornia (not Balean nor Bolcan). Wolfe ; island (Canadian), St Lawrence River, near Clayton, Jefferson County, New York (not Grand nor Long). LITERATURE value of the imports in the fiscal year 1902 was $264,000,000, of which prac- tically two-thirds were drawn from the United Kingdom and only 2 per cent from the United States. Of the ex- ports, 25 per cent went to the United Kingdom and 12 per cent were sent to the United States. Of the exports, rice, hides and skins, jute, cotton, tea, opium, and oil seeds are the principal items in the order named. The principal im- ports are cotton manufactures, which form more than one-third of the total ; metals, hardware and cutlery, sugar, oils, silk, raw and manufactured; woolen goods, and machinery of various kinds. The U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey has just published a List and Catalogue of all the publications of the Survey. It makes a quarto volume of 237 pages. The List is arranged chronologically and the Catalogue alphabetically, by au- thors, subjects, places, etc., with many cross-references. “Paraguay ” is the title of a very val- uable brochure of 187 pages recently published by the Bureau of American Republics. The book contains an ex- cellent map, some good illustrations, and many interesting facts about the country and people of the South Amer- ican Republic.

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY The proceedings of the Society during De- cember, 1902, and January, 1903, will be pub- lished in the March number. REGULAR MEETINGS. February 13.—‘‘ The Work of the Census Office.’? Hon. William R. Merriam. February 27.—‘‘ The Work of the Naval Ob- servatory.’’ Capt. Charles H. Davis. March 13.—‘‘ The Work of the Geological Survey.’’ Hon. Charles D. Walcott. March 27.—‘‘ The Work of the Library of Congress.’’ Hon. Herbert Putnam. This is the last meeting of the season. POPULAR LECTURES. February 6.—‘‘ From Paris to New York Overland.’’ Mr Harry de Windt. (Illus- trated ) This is the account of a remarkable journey of 18,000 miles by land from Paris to New York via Béring Strait. February 21.*—‘‘ Tropical Development, a Temperate Zone Problem.’’ Hon. O. P. Aus- tin. (Illustrated. ) March 6.—‘‘ The Geographic Distribution of Insanity in the United States.’’ Dr W. A. White, Director of the Binghamton State Hospital, New York. March 20.—( The last lecture of the season. ) ‘*Captain John Smith and Old Virginia.’’ Mr W. W. Ellsworth, of the Century Company. (Illustrated. ) As Mr Paul du Chaillu has not yet returned from Russia and will probably not return for some montlis, contrary to his original plans, his lecture before the society on ‘‘ Russia of Today ’’ has been postponed until next winter. THE AFTERNOON COURSE OF LECTURES. IN COLUMBIA THEATRE AT 4.20 P. M. The general subject of the course is ‘‘ The United States.’’ During recent years our country has been advancing by leaps and bounds, until today it is the most wealthy of nations. New York is now practically the financial center of the world. American capi- talists have within the last four years floated loans for Mexico, Germany, England, and Russia, and liave placed hundreds of millions of dollars in investments abroad. The ques- tion now in every mind is, What elements in the United States have helped us to earn this tremendous national wealth and power and have won for us commercial supremacy in the markets of the world? To partially answer this question is the aim of the present series of five lectures. In other words, the subject of the course is ‘‘ The Basis of the Wealth and Power of the United States.”’ Diagrams and illustrations will be used very freely, but statistics and tables will be avoided as far as possible. The lecture committee de- sire to have the subject treated in a popular way rather than from a statistical or technical point of view. * Please note that this is Saturday. 1. ‘‘Lands and Waters.’’ The first lecture in the series will treat of the unexcelled natu- ral features of the United States—our deep, secure harbors on the Atlantic, Gulf, and Pa- cific seaboards, our great rivers which pene- trate into the heart of the country, our vast fertile plains and lofty mountains, in which are buried untold mineral wealth, and our in- land lakes, all seemingly ranged in most for- tunate conjunction to mutually help each other, and the elements and routes of com- merce. Lecturer, Mr Cyrus C. Adams, the noted writer and lecturer on geographical themes. February Io, 1903. 2. ‘‘The Soil and its Products.’’ The sec- ond lecture will deal more particularly with the land and the products of the land—agri- culture. Twenty billions of dollars are in- vested in the agricultural interests of the United States. We raise annually two billion bushels of corn and reap every year a larger crop of wheat than the combined wheat crops of Argentina and Russia. In 1901 the United States sent nearly one billion dollars’ worth of food—wheat, pork, beef, etc.—to the people of Europe. We are literally the storehouse of Europe. Lecturer, Secretary of Agriculture, Hon, James Wilson. February 18, 1903. ‘‘The Industries.’’ The third lecture will treat of the industrial wealth of the United States. The value of our manufactures exceed that of any other nation. In the manufacture of steel we lead the world, and in cotton and woolen fabrics we are eclipsed by noone. Our railways—two hundred thousand miles of them—penetrate to every corner of the country, binding the whole nation into one compact unit. Our telegraph and telephone systems enable men to communicate instantaneously though thousands of miles apart. Lecturer, Hon. O. P. Austin, Chief of Bureau of Statis- tics, Treasury Department. February 25, 1903. 4. ‘‘ Mines and Mining.’’ The fourth lecture will treat of the mineral wealth of the United States. During each of the last three years we have produced more coal than England ; in 1902 we produced more than one-half of the refined petroleum ; more than one-third of the world’s production of iron ore in 1902 was ob- tained from the United States mines; three- fifths of the copper output for the same year came from the United States. Lecturer, Mr. Charles Kirchoff, editor of The /ron Age. March 4, 1903. 5. ‘‘ The Men Who Make the Nation.’’ The fifth and last lecture will treat of the people of the United States. The mingling of races and peculiar conditions have bred a distinct and original people, who mould the gifts of na- ture to their will. The inventive genius of the American has enabled him to increase many times the resources nature has given him. The typical American has not yet been bred, but we may prophesy what he will be and what place he will holdin the world. Lecturer, W J McGee, LL. D., Vice-President National Geographic Society. March II, 1903. XUM

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(UM Office Hours: 8.30 A. M. to 5 P. M. Telephone, Main 471 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY OFFICES Rooms 107, 108 Corcoran Building Fifteenth and F Sts. N. W., Washington, D. C. ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL A President W J McGEE > . ° ° Vice-President JOHN JOY EDSON ‘ ; $ > Treasurer A. J. HENRY . ‘ ° i ° - Secretary ELIZA R. SCIDMORE ° - Foreign Secretary BOARD OF MANAGERS 4901-1903 41902-1904 1903-1905 MARCUS BAKER A. GRAHAM BELL CHARLES J. BELL HENRY F. BLOUNT HENRY GANNETT GEORGE DAVIDSON F. V. COVILLE A. W. GREELY WM. M. DAVIS D. C. GILMAN ANGELO HEILPRIN JOHN JOY EDSON S. H. KAUFFMANN RUSSELL HINMAN G. K. GILBERT WILLIS L. MOORE W J McGEE A. J. HENRY ISRAEL C. RUSSELL GIFFORD PINCHOT DAVID J. HILL R. D. SALISBURY O. H. TITTMANN C. HART MERRIAM The National Geographic Magazine is sent free of charge to all members of the National Geographic Society Recommendation for Membership in the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY The following form is enclosed for use in the nomination of persons for membership Please detach and fill in blanks and send to the Secretary Dues: Annual membership, $2; Life membership, $50. If check be enclosed, please make it payable to order of the National Geographic Society, and, if at a distance from Washington, remit by New York draft or post-office money-order. 1903 Please propose favesnoe oe Gites oc oeeeway eee See edie Mae th address : _._-..--- : ph cd na areca ARN URLS Pa 2 Re Oe i, See ry i ee for membership in the Society.

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; ‘‘Better than going Si abroad, and the best preparation for a trip abroad.”’ PORTLAND SUMMER SCHOOL PORTLAND, MAINE. Portland Summer School JULY 13 TO AUGUST 21 ot Successor to the famous Sauveur Summer School, founded in 1875 at Amherst College. Courses in modern and ancient lan- guages, culture of the speaking voice, instrumental and vocal music. For illustrated circular address : ARNOLD WERNER-SPANHOOFD Central High School, - Washington, D. C. Po There ave other railroads be- tween the east and the west. BUT it is always well to secure the best you can for the money. LHEREPORE You should bear in mind this re- mark of an experienced traveler: “For the excellence of tts tracks, the speed of its trains, the safety and comfort of its patrons, the loveliness and vartety of its scenery, the num- ber and importance of tts cities, and the uniformly correct character of its service, the New York Central C& Hudson River Railroad ts not surpassed by any similar institu- tion on either side of the Atlantic.” Send to George H. Daniels, General Pas- senger Agent,Grand Central Station, New York, a 2-cent stamp for a 52-page illus- trated Catalogue of the Four-Track Series a WE make a specialty of HIGH GRADE WORK ScieNTIFIC avo TECHNICAL PUBLICATIONS (ar CEL NING \ eet") ENGRAVERS / \ PHitave LPHIA_A ‘Gr fr PLATES TO PRINT IN ONE OR MORE Cotorns The [Manhattan Press-Clipping Bureau ARTHUR CASSOT, Froprietor NEW YORK (Knickerbocker Building) LONDON COR. FIFTH AVENUE AND 14TH STREET, NEW YORK Will supply you with all personal reference and clippings on any subject from all the papers and periodicals published here and abroad. Our large staff of readers can gather for you more valuable material on any current subject than you can get in a lifetime. 100 clippings . . $ 5.00 250 clippings . . 500 clippings « « « $22.00 1,000 clippings . . . $35.00 YIM

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BY THE GREATEST AMERICAN AUTHORITY Astronomy f Everybody By Simon Newcomb, LL.D. FASCINATING presentation of the scientific astron- omy as it stands to-day. As absorbing as a story, and yet as authoritative as such a book can be. In the whole history of astronomy there never has been before a writer who combined the elements of great knowledge and author- ity with so masterly and interesting a style. As a writer on science he stands for illuminating and attractive style as well as complete knowledge, beside Humboldt, Darwin, Tyndall, and Huxley. He is a great writer as well as a great astron- omer. There is no other book that fills the place that this one does, for it gives all the general reader cares to know about astronomy, and is unsurpassed in the simplicity and charm and readableness of its style. PUBLIC OPINION says : ‘«There are many sufficient reasons for placing ‘Astronomy for Every- body’ at the head of all books of the same class.’’ Postpaid, $2.15. Net, $2.00. McC rure, Puiwuirs & Co., New York ee HENRY ROMEIKE'’S ee BUREAU OF PRESS CUTTING 110 Fifth Avenue, New York Reads every paper of importance published in the United States, and through its European agencies in London, Paris, Berlin and Vienna every paper of importance published in Europe and the British Colonies. One subscription on any given subject will bring notices from the United States, and if desired also from the European papers. WRITE FOR TERMS

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Tarr and dos RALPH S, TARR, B.S., F.G.S.A. ano FRANK M, McMURRY, Ph. D, Cornell vila Teachers’ aces Columbia skiniabitad —— ~ SOME NOTEWORTHY | FEATURES: CONVENIENT IN FORM—EASY TO HANDLE MORE DURABLE THAN THE OLD-STYLE GEOGRAPHIES HOME GEOGRAPHY MADE PROMINENT RELATION BETWEEN MAN AND THE EARTH CAUSE AND EFFECT—PHYSICAL CONDITIONS AND RESULTING INDUSTRIES PEDAGOGICAL AS WELL AS SCIENTIFIC IN TREATMENT PHYSIOGRAPHIC FACTS CLEARLY PRESENTED ILLUSTRATIONS THAT ILLUSTRATE—NOT MERELY PICTURES MAPS CLEAR AND DISTINCT—FREE FROM USELESS DETAIL TWO-BOOK SERIES THE FIVE-BOOK SERIES: Introductory Geography . . . 60 cts. | Part I—(4th year) HomeGeography 40 cts. Complete Geography . +. . $1.00 Part Il—(5th year) The Earth as a THE THREE-BOOK SERIES | Whole . ». « « © «© © + © 40 Cts Book |—(4th and 5th years) Home | Part I1]—(6th year) North America 75 cts. Geography and the Earth as a Part IV—(7th year) Europe, South Whole se se ee ee + 6O-cts. | Ameticn, £0. 5 5 5 6 ss BO Oe. Book Il—(6th year) North America 75 cts. | Part V—(sth year) Asia and Africa, Book I!l—(7th and 8th years) Europe | with Review of North America and Other Continents . . . . 75 cts. | and Local Supplement . « 20 cts, SUPPLEMENTARY “VOLUMES The New England States . . 30 cts, Utah Kansas. 1 wt ew te 30 cts. | California ust READY | Pennsylvania) New York State ....., 30 cts. Ohio A TEACHER’S MANUAL OF GEOGRAPHY TO ACCOMPANY THE TARR AND McMURRY GEOGRAPHIES BY CHARLES A. MCMURRY, PH.D., STATE NORMAL SCHOOL, DE KALB, ILL. Price, 40 CENTS THIS IS A TEACHER’S BOOK DESIGNED TO THROW LIGHT UPON THE CHIEF PROBLEMS IN A FULL COURSE OF GEOGRAPHICAL INSTRUCTION. IT IS PLANNED AS A HAND-BOOK TO THE TARR-=McMURRY GEOGRAPHIES. IN HOME GEOGRAPHY THE CHIEF DIFFICULTY IS TO GiVE THE STUDY CONCRETENESS BY BASING IT UPON LOCAL EXPERIENCE AND YET TO DEAL WITH IMPORTANT CONCEPTS OF VALUE TO ALL LOCALITIES. AN IMPORTANT TOPIC DISCUSSED IS HOW TO COLLECT EXPERIENCE ON EXCURSIONS AND TO WORK THEM OVER IN THE CLASS-ROOM. THE OTHER PROBLEM IS TO GRASP THE WORLD WHOLE AND TO KEEP IT IN RIGHT RELATION TO HOME EXPERIENCES. THE. “MACMILLAN COMPANY. 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK BOSTON CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA

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— «+ oe ,.7 = - CORNELL UNIVERSITY, ITHACA, N. Y. Sik 6th to August 15th, 1903 COURSES OF INSTRUCTION PHYSICAL: GEOGRAPHY OF THE LANDS, Professor R. S. Tarr. (Professor of Dynamic Geology and Physical Geography, Cornell University). LABORATORY COURSE IN PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, Assistant Principal Carney (Assistant Principal, Ithaca High School) and Mr. Mills (Assistant in Physical © Geography, Cornell University). FIELD COURSE IN PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, Professor Tarr, Mr. Whitbeck, and Mr. Mills. DYNAMICAL GEOLOGY, Professor A. P, Brigham (Professor of Geology and Natural History, Colgate University, Hamilton; N. Y.). LABORATORY COURSE IN GEOLOGY, Mr. Matson (Assistant in Geology, Cornell University). FIELD COURSE IN GEOLOGY, Professor Brigham, Assistant Principal Carney, Mr. Matson, and Mr. Mills. GEOGRAPHY OF THE UNITED STATES, Professor By ai GEOGRAPHY OF EUROPE, Professor Tarr, HOME GEOGRAPHY, Professor C. A. McMurry (Director of Practice Department, Northern Illinois Normal School, DeKalb, Lil.). TYPE STUDIES IN GEOGRAPHY FOR GRAIIIIAR GRADES, Professor McMurry. COMMERCIAL GEOGRAPHY, Principal Emerson (Principal Cobbet School, Lynn, Mass.). LABORATORY AND FIELD WORK IN COMMERCIAL GEOGRAPHY, Principal Emerson. CLASS ROOM PROBLEMS IN GEOGRAPHY, Mr. R. H. Whitbeck (Supervisor in New Jersey State Normal School, Trenton, N. J.). PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY FOR GRADES, Mr. Whitbeck. ROUND TABLE CONFERENCE, for consideration of topics of geographic interest ; all the teachers and such students as desire to attend. ADVANCED FIELD AND LABORATORY COURSE IN DYNAMIC GEOLOGY AND PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, Professors Tarr and Brigham, with assistants. THE REGULAR SUMMER SESSION also includes courses in Education, History, Economics, Botany, Zodlogy, and other subjects which have a bearing on geographic work. For further information write to The Registrar, Cornell University, Ithaca, N. Y., for special circular of School of Geography.

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— Saar ioe ere ELEM E.R. G. es : Chaya Of the erin ear Society of Philadelphia ae a ¥ sents the first complete account of the catastrophic events of the island whose misfortunes have so aroused the sympathies of the world, and added a chapter to history as interesting as that of the fall of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Prof, Heil- prin’s early visit to Martinique permitted him to study the scene of the major disaster very soon after its happening, while his experiences on the still burning volcano, whose crater he ‘was the first to visit after the tragic eighth of May, and during the great ” eruption of August 30, of which he was a direct observer, were such as to make the - narrative describing them one of thrilling interest. The author’s qualifications as an investigator, geologist, and geographer give to the work its stamp of scientific authority, and it can safely be said that it will remain the standard work on the subject of which it treats for many years in the future, The book, in large octavo, contains three hundred and thirty-five pages in text, and there are nearly forty full-page p plates, made up in greater part of reproductions from ys 9 taken by Prof. Heilprin inimself. Many of these reveal the volcano in its climax of eruption and in rapidly following successive stages of activity. No such record is to be found elsewhere. 8vo. Cloth, illustrated, $3.00, net. Postage 27 Cents Publishers . . . J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY . . .« Philadelphia Tan work, almost antipue in the ‘class of exploration and scientific research, pre- : D888 88 8 0889998998 998 988 898 9989 99999999 299999995 Our Department of Office Furniture is replete @ O ff 4 with everything requisite to the furnishing @ i Cc e of a modern Office, a Bank, a Committee’ § Room, ete. : Handsome Combination Book Cases, Sectional Book Cases, Revolving Book e Cases, Roll-top Desks, Flat-top Desks, Standing urniture Office Desks, Typewriter Desks, Typewriter and Letter-press Stands, Office Chairs, Se Sectional Filing Devices, Office and Library Tables, Leather Furniture, Etc. & gt Jt 0 8 Ghe Sectional Book Case Is the case for the home or office. Every one has some books which he wishes to protect. When there are not enough to fill an ordinary book case, one or two sections may be had at a very small expense, and as the number of volumes increases additional sections can be added—and the book tase grows as book space is needed. Whether you have one section or“more, you havé a complete book case. We carry the ‘*Gunn,’’ the ‘‘Casler,’’ and the ‘* Danner ’’—each has its special feature—in the most popular woods and finishes $1.15 per Section .. Up Without Glass, in Solid Oak WOODWARD A special finish to suit the woodwork of Seg i LN Sm re meee any particular room made to order with- out. additional cost. ._We shall be pleased L Oo T H R. O P . to have you call and examine them. New York’... Washington ... Paris THIRD FLOOR S eeeeceeeeecececececececeeceecceeeceecdceeceeeecceeccecece” eecececeeceeeeceeeeeceoecccceed S€ €EGECEEC 7 PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER,WASHINGTON, D.C.