Harper's Bazaar 1927-10

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; i london: 5 fe in Parr : AHarp fed, Sa _ October 1927 “a The Par riz Openi ngy ees Baron. de Meyer Ben)

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SHEER AUDACITY The beauty of silken sheerness on slender, shapely legs... is it this that gives the owner such assurance, such audacity ...is it this that fills even the timid man with admiration? ...McCallum evening hose have a beautiful sheen, a J nd Ss \ a "a Y fll / ~ yy i J | 4, ¢ “ - f om 4 a ra , ee “a — a a “a ae MO EE NR NUE mist-like sheerness. Their fineness and sheen blend gracefully with filmy evening frock, or show in striking contrast to the heavy metal or velvet gown ...And what delicate nuances of shadings there are among McCallum hosiery! From soft Moonlight, through Ivory to Chanella. Every shade that you may wish ! They come aristocratically simple, with narrow lace clock, or more formal openwork designs. Each bears the name of McCallum, a mark of distinction and perfection. The price range of McCallum begins at two dollars. McCallum Hosiery Company, Northampton, Mass. YOu JUST KNOW SHE WEARS THEM To thove who wish to make a. selection among beautiful hove will be sent the MeCallum Book of Howmery. To wear wilh any evening gown, No, 502, avery beautiful and obeer chiffon bove wilh reinforced walk lop and fool. PV Callum’ Sa S aaa sea a Hs: QS === == most | aide. ™ a. S

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TIFEANY & CO. PEARL NECKLACES AND PEARLS FOR ADDITIONS TO NECKLACES MAIL INQUIRIES RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION FIFTH AVENUE & 3/ = STREET NEw YORK

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HARPER’S BAZAR — —_ 7 THT i\ Hil Hil Hi | | | i | | | Sang ta nuit ans la nut ”ADFUM DE C The subtle. unfo rgettable fragrance that has | | added new brilliance to a famous old Paris name | | Obtainable in all the leading shops in the | United States and Franklin Simon & Co. | Fifth Avenue, New York i | ! an a * ae i ett iii ties ee | _ : — |

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te for OCTOBER 1927 Introducing THE NEW Wendell COATS Cfor «Madame Ce ee LOT AALS LT RET ke Wendell fashions are originated and patented by Franklin Simon & Co. Model B419—Wendell coat wears a long shawl collar and deep cuffs of selected fox fur. The intricate designing and fine tailoring in this coat sets a new standard— Wen- dell standard. Soft, deep textured Kashmir is the fabric used. Black, graywing or Franciscan brown with fur dyed to match; also muscova green with gray dyed fox fur. Silk lined 100.00 and interlined. Model B421—Wendell coat with a newshaped collar and deep cuffs of rock-sable fur (ringtail fur) is a luxurious as well as a smart coat. The richness of the fur with the fineness of the silky textured Kashmir makes this a typical Wendell fashion and value. Black, new tan, muscova green or Franciscan brown. Satin lined and inter- lined. 145.00 * Registration applied for in the United States Patent Office Franklin Simon 8 Co. A Store of Individual Shops FirrH AVENUE, 37th and 38th Streets, NEw YORK Entire contents copyrighted, 1927, by FRANKLIN Simon & Co., INc.

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4 HARPER’S BAZAR init (Collers Custom (Made ue Wraps are oe oF ly CRisinlite, be Taint J (Detail waail a a d og ee women's and misses’ furs—second floor BONWIT TELLER &,CO, FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™STREET, NEW YORK

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for OCTOBER 1927 i Veber... Most Regal .) EFidiite .,, ead in Gass of Cio, Simplicity or Youth s Quon Bouflant icture a: ee women’s gowns—second floor’ misses’ gowns—third floor BONWIT TELLER & CO. FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™STREET, NEW YORK

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MARRON When you wanted a general-purpose colour in shoes— a colour that could go anywhere and with almost any- thing— you used to think of black . : . This winter you'll say, “Marron!” Marron is a gorgeous, rich, true brown. Brown that glows. Brown of an exquisite wood. Brown of the high-lights in Russian sable. Brown just born for shoes to complete the new browns you'll wear in clothes— if you know Paris . . . Marron will make a pleasant contrast with the greens, the blues—and of course it fits exactly those chic costumes of the moment where W bat part of the . Not much black and brown are combined .. . smart rainbow does that leave out? . of anything, this year. Marron is right for the street-—restrained in its beauty ROBERT H. FOERDERER, INc. PHILADELPHIA Selling Agents: LUCIUS BEEBE & SONS, Inc. Selling agencies in all parts of the world —a colour in leather that shows affinity for tailored lines in shoe construction... Marron is right for the afternoon, too. It has a suave richness that seems at home with velvets and silks in dresses .. . No won- der the great shoe designers have ordered i for those miracles of grace that they create for formal wear . In short—Marron has chic wherever it pom it goes everywhere. If you're wise—it will go with you. Where do you find Marron? Only in shoes of Vict kid... And where do you find shoes of Vics kid? In shoe departments and shoe stores that are on their toes looking for the newest, the smartest in footwear . And how do you know it’s Marron when you think you've found it? Because the shoes of Vict kid in these clever shoe shops are stamped inside with the Lucky Horseshoe. ; AQ =) a FD ae aN F Here’s what you look for Lo . the famous Lucky ; Hebe . » Your ase / surance of chic, Tong wear , and true economy... which consists in getting what you'll continue to want. ICI] kid REG. U.S PAT. OFF. HARPER’S BAZAR

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» for OCTOBER 1927 7 LEATHER COATS AND FUR LINED TWEEDS PLAY IMPORTANT PARTS IN THE WINTER MODE Model 800—The jaunty little Nada sports jacket is of cape- skin, double-breasted, in box-coat effect, with a convertible collar. Sateen lined. Crimson, jade, Belgian blue, brown. Sizes 34 to 42. 35.00 Our representatives hold fash- ion exhibits in most of the larger cities east of the Missis- sippi. We shall be glad to sup- ply ycu with the dates of showings in your town or nearby. Write Dept. M.O.T. —~ 4 Hittin, Model 801—For the college girl or young a business woman, the full-length glove leather coat is both practical and smart. This one is belted.in chic fashion, and is kashmir lined. Crimson, jade, navy, black, brown. Sizes 14 to 20. 39.50 Model 802—For skating, sports and general country wear, this belted capeskin coat in the new three-quarter length that Paris is sponsor- ing. Roomy pockets keep the hands warm. Crimson, jade, Belgian blue, brown. — Sizes 34to 40. 27.50 Model 803—Leather coats are a wise choice for the schoolgirl, and Best’s features this model for both girls and junior misses. Straight, short, and smart; in bright capeskin. Red, green and brown. Sizes 8 to 16-only 16.50 Model 804—No smart Winter wardrobe is complete without a fur lined coat! They are particularly practical for school and country wear. This one in good-looking brown or gray tweeds has a fluffy fur collar, and coney lining. Sizes 14 to 20. 59.50 Mail Charge — Accounts ille Solicited hest & Co. PARIS Fifth Avenue at 35th Street—N. Y. LONDON Palm Beach

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HARPER’S BAZAR | 2 LIPPER WE The most important part of the smart costume today is the hose. You may purchase Kayser Silk Products at all the Better Shops and atthe Kayser Store, Fifth Ave., at 41st St., opposite the Library. © J. K. & Co, 1927 This is because of brief skirts. And the most important hose is Slipper Heel.* For the converging heel lines seem to take inches off the ankle and continues this illusion of slen- derness above the knee. Then, too, it is made of a pure thread silk that Sives a texture of exquisite evenness and rare beauty. In every smart shade. There is a permanent display of the latest Paris styles in hosiery, underwear and gloves at the Kayser Shop. * Reg. U.S. & For. Pat. Off. Patented 1914

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for OCTOBER 1927

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10 HARPER’S BAZAR CWhich Shadow shall y Our Chin -Tine cast eas day «guar uae TODAY ? PEON. ee Only DorotHuy GRAY GM help = your hand-mirror, angle-wise; inspect the shadow of your profile on the wall of your dressing-room. What shadow will that clean-cut chin-line of today cast twelve months from now? Will it sag, relax, and ‘ ” “‘loosen’’? Dorothy Gray will help you answer that with certainty. For she knows that age shows first at three cardinal points: (1) in the HROAT wrinkles at eyes and mouth, (2) in the texture of the throat, and (3) in the sagging of the facial muscles, especially those that cause double chin. And for these warnings she provides you not only with: exquisite special preparations (creams and lotions, oint- ments, liquids, and toilet accessories) but with specific instruction for their most effective use. Write her of your tendencies Write Miss Gray herself, at the Fifth Avenue salon, describing your ten- dencies; if possible, send her your photograph in profile. She will be glad, if you genuinely wish it, to indicate those of her preparations which are evidently suitable to your condition. Smart department stores and specialty shops have the preparations themselves. With their wise and regu- lar use, you will go far toward actually moulding the shadow of your profile; you'll keep the muscles of your chin firm and their contour graceful; and best of all, you’ll utterly defeat neglect with irreproachably effective prepa- rations. And know “*The Story of Dorothy Gray” THE fascinating story of how Dorothy Gray, herself the daughter of a doctor, has built her tremendous following in facial aesthetics, how she has perfected her preparations after years of study — “The Story of booklet all this is to be found in Dorothy Gray,” which she wants to send you, along an attractive with her advice in your specific case. Just send this coupon.... DOROTHY GRAY 753 Fifth Avenue, New York & —_ oo > —_ ——_—_,

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for OCTOBER 1927 11 bisque moire with an oris- inal treatment of gold orsilver kid. 22.50 New lines of slender chic in “Chapada” an evening slip- per of black or SAKS-FIFTH AVENUE New York

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foi HARPER’S BAZAR a ) / & sy i/ , i Wf) iY Uy), twjj} Wh Wii), Y Ve Go WH ¥ Z Ah ih a 4 Vy 4 t Gj yy Z tps af!) 4, Y Y Yip ij' 1 YU ' My i Yj, Y UH) / 4 YY y) iy, SAA a y/ ; Yi y if! 4 4 Z Yf ~ SSSA YY, NOBODY CAN PO//IBLY FEEL FRIVOLOUS WITHOUT A LID/TICKe AND NO FRIVOLITY IY SUCCEYFUL UNLEY IT VY CHIC... THE AN/WER YY OBVIOUS. a UERLAIN THE RED DOT IDENTIFIES THE DAYTIME /HADE THE OTHER L/ A LIGHTER SHADE FOR EVENING WEAR wx eal 576 - i CHAMP, AVENUE = —— SS E\tY,eeEY

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for OCTOBER 1927 13 “4 i . Fy oye > 4 4 a Fe Bs) i, rs i lf 4 i i 4 a 3 ” ? 4 *y x ‘* 7 ‘ } wi Ry in j | ¢ Mi va 7 Salient Features of the Autumn Mode Revealed at the Parts Openin eS Our fall collection of women’s and misses’ coats embraces all the subtle innovations in the mode. Flares are once more used discreetly and the newest collars stand up in back Left—Replica of 2 Viennet in framing the face. Furs—more particularly the Righ— ne soft the geometrical seaming in, ‘fat Vatiety—are used with recklessabundance. — ff), ifettiin. 178ml re evitably associated with this Coats in the new silhouettes from one of the smart flat furs is house. Tuxedo and throw scarf used with lavish disregard of black caracul. $325 $39.50 $450.00 in this coat. $275 Third Floor Lord & Laylor FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK

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14 HARPER’S BAZAR mea tat hg 'ee of Golflex Coat —New in Its Dynamic Lines and Brief Belt/ Unbelted at the hack—to enhance slenderness! Belted and buckled at the front —lo give an engagingly young "lok! Triangular cuff ‘lines and shirt panels gle a dynamic swing lo the sithouctle—while the Sland-away ‘collar is anew note. The cashmere worsted is as lovely as youve grown lo expect in Golflex ( bals—misly indefinite qreen, the smart new grey, each collared with platinum ‘wolf; ora flallering lan lopped with cocoa-dyed wolf Price $9S. GOLFLEX Write Wilkin & Adler, Inc., 500 Seventh Ave., New York City, if you can’t find this Coat—labelled Golflex—at your favorite store. ENTIRE CONTENTS COPYRIGHTED. 1927, BY WILKIN @ ADLER. INC f

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for OCTOBER 1927 a, Arnold,Constable 6G. Te CENTENNIAL# One hundred years keeping pace with the spirit of tomorrow FIFTH AVENUE -39" & 40" Streets = ZS. Ss President Grant’s wife, in hoop skirt days of 1869, shopped at Arnold, Constable’s Arnold, Constable’s were then in their famous marble front store on Broadway and 19th Street—one of the great show places of old New York, and a meeting place of the fashionables. Mrs. Grant, like other personages prominent in the life of the city and the nation, came to Arnold’s to select from its broad stocks of fine linens, hosiery, shawls, parasols, silks, dress goods, mantles and furs. Her daughter, Nellie Grant, was married in the White House in 1874, and of course Nellie’s trousseau. came from New York’s leading store. The Arnold, Constable Centennial is now being held. It is setting new selling records.

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16 HARPER’S BAZAR Hy EB Ae R S“TeOFIN oss early fall wear, Beauctat. presents THE HARSTON, a sports costume with blouse af CASIMIR JERSEY, shirt and coat of KINNEIL TWEED, collared with LEDSHAM FUR. sie by Wilkam Zab Se BLOOM & ¢ :0., INC. Lefer phateg pailding 39th Street anes ay - New York e -FOR TOWN, COUNTRY ecu, StraMen ano RESTAURANT |

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A NEW MAGNIFICENCE” WITH BUICK LEADING THE MODE! ‘““COHE most beautiful automobile 99 of all time.’’ Such is the glowing tribute of millions of motorists to Buick for 1928. Not only does this brilliant new Buick with its smart, low-swung Bodies by Fisher eclipse all previous standards, but it ushers in an entirely new mode, as superior to fashions of the past as modern home decoration is to the or- nate styles of the eighties—a mode of tasteful magnificence, worthy in every way of Buick leadership. BUICK MOTOR COMPANY, FLINT, MICHIGAN Division of General Motors Corporation Canadian Factories: MC LAUGHLIN- BUICK, Oshawa, Ontario \\ pp % B U ; C Ks WHEN BETTER AUTOMOBILES ARE BUILT «+ BUICK WILL BUILD THEM

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LONGER WEAR IN EVERY PAIR j America’s Most Beautiful Stockings At the Finer Stores Largman, Gray Company Sales Offices: 389 Fifth Avenue, New York A DECALCOMANIA PICTURE OF OUR BLUE MOON GIRL FOR YOUR AUTO WINDOW OR RAIN SLICKER WILL BE SENT UPON REQUEST.

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for OCTOBER 1927 17 MODERN PERMANENT WAVE achieved by Nestle Circuline Softly undulating . . . as gracefully sym- metrical as the loveliest of natural waves, fhis is the wave that the ultra-smart women of America and the Continent have unanimously adopted — the wave Parisienne! Circuline assures you of this mod- ish wave— vance, because unlike all other methods Circuline treats each head of hair strictly according to its individual requirements. Whether your hair be fine or coarse, bleached or grey, you may choose the wave you prefer from three sample curls made on the back of your own head, and your entire head will be waved to match that curl! assures you of it in ad- a Mr. Charles Nestle invented permanent waving and its every notable advancement. NEST PERMANENT WAVE And Circuline is so safe and gentle ... for it is s entirely free from —_ ammonia, and requires Beit seven KS minutes of temperate heat— 100 degrees less than is necessary for an ordinary marcel wave. But remember, Madame, you are not getting a Nestle Circuline Wave unless your hairdresser uses genuine Cir- culines (as pictured below). Watch her as she immerses one for each curl clear, fresh water; and look for the name ‘‘ Nestle Circuline” stamped on the glassine wrappers—your assurance of a perfect wave ... lovely and lasting! C.NESTLECO. 12 E. 49th St., New York City Please send booklet describing Nestle Circuline; also names and addresses of Circu- line hairdressers nearest me, who will test my hair before waving it. Patented July 13, 1926. Other Patents Pending

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HARPER’S BAZAR WHEN YOU It is pleasant to reflect that re-waving the wave is no longer necessary, thanks to The Eugene Method. For, the Eugene Two-Sectional Steam- ers and the Eugéneol Re-wave Sachets make it possible to give a new perma- nent wave to the newly grown hair, without re-waving the waved portion. In other methods of permanent waving, the only way to meet the problem of new straight hair, is to wave the entire head all over again. Asa result, the new owth takes the wave satisfactorily, ut the twice-waved hair assumes a crinkled, kinky appearance, greatly to be avoided. In Eugene waving, the treatment is strictly confined to the new growth only. Repeated waves by The Eugéne Method leave the hair flawlessly soft and per- fectly conditioned. For the Eugene way FOR YOUR NEXT CQ) COME BACK CUGENEe Wave of waving is gentle. Instead of drench- ing the hair with chemical solutions and baking it dry, the Eugene Waver winds it dry.... Then to each careful curl, he introduces countless tiny pres- sure-jets of clean, white steam. Result .... a gracefully undu- lating natural wave. That is why it pays to pa the slightly hehe tie for a Eugene Permanent. Look for the Eugene trademark onthe sachets. The unique features of the gentle Eugene Meth- od are explained clearly and interestingly in our new brochure .--.We will be glad to mail you a copy together with the names and address- es of Eugene Wavers in your vicinity. Steaming the new hair only Eugene, Ltd., of London and Paris, 565 Fifth Avenue, New York City CUGENE Permanent Waves PERFECTED ABROAD- PREFERRED THE WORLD OVER fo

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for OCTOBER 1927 (Cammeyer | A mosaic motif and a tailored note are evident in Cammeyer creations for Fall. Autumn fashions by Cammeyer willbe shown in many cities. We shallbe pleased totellyou where youcan see them and mail youa brochure of new styles. SALON oe LUXE FIFTH. AVENUE at FIFTY THIRD NEW YORK ! ‘ ‘ 4 J

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HARPER’S BAZAR for —— In their suave slender contours of the new feminine ideal...in their intriguing modern contrasts of softly rich materials...in the gentle yielding embrace of their luxuri- ously perfect fit... the mew Peacock Models for Autumn offer the fas- tidious woman the fulfillment of her ideal of individual distinction and modeled comfort in footwear. View them at all Smart Shops. PEACOCK SHOES NEW YORK - PARIS - LONDON ART IN SHOES

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ART oor OCTOBER 1927 MODELS BY NEW YORK MANGONE MODELS MAY BE HAD AT THE BEST STORE IN ANY LARGE CITY

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22 Left 9849—A molding brassiere of net lined Valen. ciennes slopes downward toward low cut back;snug glove silk yoke grips waist and extends slightly over hips, cov- ering dividing line if corset or girdle is worn; i of net lined Valenciennes. A specially stretchable star-shaped crotch* is a valuable innovation. * Pat. app. for. Centre 9848—An elaborate brassiere of net lined Valen- ciennes—time honoured aristocrat among laces—graciously meets the molding girdle made of rich, soft and firm new glove silk fabric. A skirt of Valenciennes lace conceals our garter tabs and a silk flap. Right 9955—Brocaded tones of Ebony, Jade, Lapis and Coral on white or silvery backgrounds strike a dashingly new note in a richly tailored underwear wardrobe. Soft and silky but tenaciously firm, this Singlette gloves and idealizes the figure. Garter tabs are concealed under the pantie which can be worn open or closed. HARPER’S BAZAR »--BECAUSE YOU LOVE B eware of Wrinkles / RINKLES are fatal anywhere—and most of all in your sé/houette! Yes, we mean exactly that! A wrinkle on your face sends you flying to the cold cream jar but unfortunately you are not so careful about wrinkles in your underwear. Expensive gowns lose their effect because of a misplaced fold in the garments underneath! The youth and gtace of your figure are misjudged because of ill-fitting undergarments! A Van Raalte Singlette is as supple as your skin—the elasticity of its fine glove silk yields to every motion of the body, cups the bust into a girlish roundness, and adjusts itself to each varying pose without a single wrinkle or fold. You will find Van Raalte Singlette Garments at all good shops. VAN RAALTE Glove Silk Underwear 295 Fifth Avenue, N. Y. C. f or Nl Ss

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for OCTOBER 1927 NICE THINGSwN3 ee ee | Serve Singlette is a complete and unified underdress combining in a single garment all the essential features of your favorite separate styles. Singlettes are made of glove silk because it is the perfect under- wear material—elastic yet firm, durable, and as beautiful in texture as the most satiny flesh. Choose the Singlette styles which best suit your figure and your mode of dress—all of them will give you that sense of comfort and well being which comes to women only when they know that they are well dressed throughout. If you do not find the style you want, write us for information. VAN RAALTE Glove Silk Underwear 295 Fifth Avenue, N. Y. C. 23 Left 9631—The brassiere in this Singlette is made of surah suede, an exceptionally resistant material and the pantie is of extra heavy glove silk. Smart on the slender figure, it has been designed with several features that make it espe- cially suitable for the larger woman. Sizes 30 to 46. Centre 9859—Black Chantilly lace brassiere and pointed knee cuffs lined with pink net make this Singlette of black glove silk unusually handsome. Star-shaped seat* adds grace and strength to the crotch. * Pat. app. for. Right 9854—With a strictly tailored brassiere of heavy love silk, a graceful, fitted yoke at the waist and a pantie avishly trimmed with Bretonne lace, a new fashion is introduced by Van Raalte: the placing of all elaborations of trimming at the lower edge near the abbreviated hemline of modern skirts.

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HARPER’S BAZAR Crepe Satins Are Trumps in Bridge Frocks © MATTER how well a frock looks as a N whole, it must be attractive above the table, if it’s to be a good bridge frock. So each of these slim little dresses chooses the new diag- onal line and plays it high—with Skinner’s Crepe Satin or Skinner’s Crepe. These two fabrics have the right colors, the tight finish, the right quality, the right way of draping and tucking and tying in bows. Also the right texture to be sat on and still hang smoothly. So the frock at the left registers its diagonal with a pointed neck, tucks and a flare bow—in Skinner’s Crepe. The dress with the long over- blouse, diagonal neckline and trim little skirt is of Skinner’s Crepe Satin, dull and bright sides. The same fabric, in the satin side only, makes the third frock with the double diagonal circular ruffles—a miracle of ease in construction, for it’s straight underneath. Number four— for the dashing type that loves the modernist note— has its diagonal in two shades of crepe satin— Skinner’s, of course. Skinner’s Crepes and Crepe Satins are made by the makers of the famed Skinner’s Satins. They have the name Skinner woven in the sel- vage. Always look for this name. If the store hasn’t Skinner’s they can quickly obtain it for you. Skinners Crepes WILLIAM SKINNER & SONS, Established 1848 New York Chicago Boston Philadelphia Mills: Holyoke, Mass. ““LOOK FOR THE NAME IN THE SELVAGE’”?

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or OCTOBER Shoes ir Alpina with a Jrock trimmed to match | present an effect of ex- treme chic. Without Alpina, the smart wardrobe 1s incomplete The bizarre beauty and delicate ma rkings of Alpina rep~ tile skins have made them much desired for objects of fashion. Particularly in smart footwear, matching bags, gloves and hats, has their vogue been pronounced, for \ Y these charming leathers are not only exquisitely deco- A | L) | N A rative, but waterproof and unmatched in durability. It is not surprising, therefore, that the woman of true Aya the, Oogue chic includes in her wardrobe many objects in Alpina. Wee eer ae eee I OI IO IGIOO IEE. PERE GS eaten ea a

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26 HARPER’S BAZAR HE ARDWAVE is a new and distinctive walk- “a ing shoe. There is a charm about it that is unusual, and fitting qualities that are quite its own. The Ardwave is offered in a variety of leathers appropriately trimmed with contrasting leathers. Call and examine the Ardwave. You will be delighted with its appearance and its moderate cost. EE The Ardwave shoe is sold at only one shop in your city — Pe ee See Wm. M. Whitney Co. Grand Rapids, Mich...Paul Steketee & Son Pasadena, Calif.............. The Bootery pO SEES PEEP Farr Bros. Co. Greensboro, N.C......... Dobson Shoe Co. ae Clarke & Co. eS eee Fred S. Stewart Co. Greensburg, Pa.................. Royer’s Philadelphia, Pa.....N. Snellenburg & Co. Baltimore, Md......... L. Slesinger & Son Hartford, Conn........ Albert Steiger. Inc. Pittsburgh, Pa........... C. A. Verner Co. Baton Rouge, La... The Reymond Co.,Inc. Huntsville, Ala............. K. C. Rodgers Poughkeepsie, N.Y..Luckey Platt&Co., Inc. Boston, Mass....... E. W. Burt & Co.,Inc. Johnstown, Pa........... Penn Traffic Co. Providence, R.I..,...(Name upon request) Beaumont, Texas.........Sutton Shoe Co. Knoxville, Tenn.......... The Miller Store Reading, Pa............... Farr Bros. Co. Bethlehem, Pa.......... Perr Bros. Co. Lesimgton, By........0.0-- Embry & Co. Rochester, N.Y...... (Name upon request) Bridgeton, N. J...... Smashey’s Shoe Store Lincoln, Nebr............ Mayer Bros. Co. Salem, N. J.......... Smashey’s Shoe Store Brooklyn, N.Y.......(Name upon request) Little Rock, Ark........Pfeifer Bros., Inc. Salt Lake City, Utah. .Hirschman Shoe Co. Buffalo, N.Y.........(Name upon request) Los Angeles, Calif............The Bootery San Antonio, Texas............. Peyton’s Charleston, S.C... Kerrison’s Dry GoodsCo. Louisville, Ky............ Boston Shoe Co. San Francisco, Calif.......... The Bootery Chattanooga, Tenn.......Miller Bros.Co. Madison, Wis.......... Jensen’s Boot Shop’ Schenectady, N.Y........ H. S. Barney Co. Cincinnati, Ohio The Denton-Jonap Co. McKeesport, Pa.................. Royer’s Seattle, Wash............ Baxter & Baxter Columbus, O. . The F. &. R. Lazarus & Co. Milwaukee, Wis............. Gimbel Bros. Springfield, Mass........ Albert Steiger Co. Dayton, Ohio... The Elder & Johnston Co. Minneapolis, Minn......... Raleigh’s, Inc. St. Joseph, Mo............. Balmat-White Denver, Colo........ The Gano-Downs Co. Mobile, Ala........ E. H. Britton Shoe Co. St. Louis, Mo........... Famous Barr Co. Detroit, Mich........McBryde Boot Shop Montclair, N.J.................. J. Harris Toledo, Ohio....... Hagermeister Shoe Co. Phy. 2 cuneevoedewad Farr Bros. Co. Nashville, Tenn...John A. Meadors &Sons Vicksburg, Miss... ..Valley Dry Goods Co. Erie, Pa............+...2ne Weschler Co. Newark, N.J......... (Name upon request) Washington, D.C......... Arthur Burt Co. Fall River, Mass....... D. F. Sullivan, Inc. New Orleans, La........ Imperial Shoe Co. Wheeling, W.Va............ Stone-Thomas UR Bbc ccs cnensesaca Art Shoe Parlor New York City...... (Name upon request) Worcester, Mass................- Laskey’s Galveston, Texas........ Waag’s Booterie Ogden, Utah......... Hirschman Shoe Co. Yonkers, N.Y......Marshall-Matheson Co. Gloversville, N.Y. ..Clarence P. Willard Omaha, Nebr......... Thos. Kilpatrick Co. Youngstown, O....J. W. Smith & Sons Co. If your city is not listed write to us and we will direct you to a merchant who can supply you 611 Marbridge Building, New York GEORGE W. BAKER G E O RG E BAKER Seuene SHOE COMPANY 343 Classon Avenue, Brooklyn, N.Y. “SHOES OF CHARACTER ” THE NAME “GEORGE BAKER” HAS STOOD FOR SUPERIOR SHOE MAKING SINCE 1883

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for OCTOBER 1927 i ‘g RRL ES BRS ERE BIEN Joie FOUN DATLONS Every posture is a thing of beauty, every line a lovely rhythm, when you wear, as foundations, the perfect garments of Bien Jolie. At all good stores Write for illustrations of the neweit Bien Jolie Models BENJAMIN @& JOHNES - 358 FIFTH AVENUE, DEPT. B, NEW YORK Loveliness in Every Line SOS Se 5 ER eae EE, ROTEL . it Si » On ee AE Se STC Na ee ee FFL 8 HENS oh TAT

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HARPER’S BAZAR HE spirit of today's beauty—your gowns have been touched by its sharp brilliance. Your simple hats show its influence. And now Gordon gives you hose as well—woven in the spirit of our age! First, the Gordon V-Line—designed by an artist to emphasize the ankle’s own lovely moulding. Modern as tomorrow itself are its deft triangular patterns laid on either side of the heel. $2.50—in chiffon or medium weight. Caught in the sheer chiffon itself by a new proc- ess of weaving are the graceful arrows of Gordon Shadow Cloclzs. Made with the new Narrow Heel; the clocks either self-color or a contrasting shade. $3. I TS very delicacy is dar- ing—the new Gordon Nar- row Heel stocking which lends a look of fragile grace to the ankle it adorns. Pure silk to the hem, $2.00. See this new Gordon number at your favorite hosiery counter today. While for the unusual costume—the sports outfit —you will want the new Gordon Top Clocks. Strikingly original are these graceful inverted arrows at the knee—$3 the pair. Choose the Gordon number you like best . . .in one of the exclusive Gordon fall colors . . . wear it —enjoy it! Every stocking that bears the Gordon name—and there are many of them, from $1.50 to $3—is made with a painstaking care that would amaze you. And woven into the very meshes of the silk is a lasting strength which their sheer beauty belies. Made only by BROWN DURRELL COMPANY, New York, Boston.

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IR for OCTOBER 1927 Masked Lady by CARL ERICKSON Silks that express her every vagrant whim. Silks brit- liant as a Venetian fete... colors versatile as the rhythm of a symphony in the modern mood! Copyright 1927, by Stehli Silks Corporation 200 Madison Avenue, New York Paris, London and Zurich 29

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A RI % fa ilo rod. ancy cuff is the . \ neg od, complete ; the tailleur A ARIS ashahle pull-on in delicate toned kif completes the froth afternoon frock ‘4 - ARIS “The carly shoppe Ss chooses a one-hulfon™. handsewn ARIS washable hid~ S SS » } | / > \ Z \\ | IT \ t \\ | } RK FE] Whe \ my } yf } ~ i : \ sf ri\ \ Wl al? NI New types of gloves are designed to corre- spond with the very necessary accessories so the well dressed woman may carry the vogue of the complete ensemble. Aris depicts the above models as the cor-_| rect type handwear for the smartly dressed | woman this fall. | 230 FIFTH AVENUE - NEW YORK LONDON + CHICAGO - SAN FRANCISCO LOS ANGELES «: SEATTLE | fe —, —~> ee N be » ag For the Ritz luncheon- — this exquisite creation NN: one type of glove is satisfactory pa for all occasions. Just as each event i) in the day calls for a particular dress, bag | [YX or flower—each costume demands a special type of glove. “al —— STEINBERGER BROS. GLOVE CORPORATION ~ | z he buliowm Mousquetaire is the o the en- 4 inal fouc - N Moan § worn at the The Dansant suggests ttself HARPER’S BAZAR LTS cost

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for OCTOBER 1927 \) I, MILLER, De Luxe Shoes Beautiful fabrics are the outstanding feature of the Paris openings for the Fall season. Fine sports woolens, transparent velvets and sheer crepes are presented in new colors. 9 Shoes, like other important acces- sories, must harmonize with the frock or wrap. I. Miller de Luxe | owe si | Shoes are designed for the smartest costume fab- rics of the Autumn season. ’1.MILLER m 0.» on att SESS b-FLOREN.--The T-strap and the very modern design are of black patent leather on black ooze calf. e-GALOP--The arrange- ment of gun-metal straps is new on this Fall model of black patent leather. a-FLANEUR--Anoxford in d-SERPA In brown oove calf with a fine banding of brown lizard with a delicate brown patent leather inter patternin brown ooze calf inserted in the vamp. laced with bronze. LES BPRS es I. MILLER TY YL FIFTH AVENUE at 46th STREET See a eee SHOPS AND AGENCIES IN PRINCIPAL CITIES THROUGHOUT THe UNITED STATES

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PRECIEUX — A corn-colored glove silk gown, tailored severit relieved by picoted scalloping at neck, sleeves and hem; the | -line of the neck repeated, in inverted fashion, at hem. White ribbons form a sash and shoulder bow. SOPHISTICATE — Nimbus blue is smart for a glove silk pajama which is bound in self color. Flesh- colored self fabric cording is used at watst and neckline for effective trimming, Drecoll tiessash at waist. ANIME — Tomato color appl?qué on melon glove silk makes a clever dance set; ultra modern cut is used on bandeau and short bloomer. The brassiere has tiny French straps; the bloomer buttons at the waist and is only part elastic at knee. THESE NEW DESIGNS HAVE CAUGHT THE PARIS FANCY Soe $m Sending Them te Cumerica rst you like to wear lingerie created especially by me, bearing my authentic label — Drecoll, Paris? Now, through an alliance with a world- famous American maker, exact replicas of my Parisian designs in lingerie are available at your own shop. And be- cause these garments are tailored in America, prices are free from high import duty. Thus these exquisite French garments cost no more than you pay for ordinary kinds. See them today. They are all fashioned of exquisite glove silk, and cut after the principles which have made my gowns famous. Always have I labored toward one effect of “sophistication,” sought by smart women today. If gowns are to attain this end, what’s underneath must be fashioned Jo Be Offered Uou ir Replica at a Very Reasonable Price “ \f UXUCEs"LINgGErl& ‘and Hosi ery to bring out the natural beauty of the figure and make it more alluring. My gowns have the enviable quality in the same manner. So to my lingerie I apply the same principle of cutting which adds that subtle, enchanting line to my outer apparel. Charming accents are caught and held... lovely lines are emphasized, perfected. The best known maker of exquisite glove silk underthings is Luxite. Luxite now tailors my original creations and places them within your reach. All garments are of pure glove silk alone. Exquisite workman- ship distinguishes each one. You'll be de- lighted with the originality and charm of these ultra modern designs. Do see them. An exquisite line of strictly tailored garments is included. You will find unique departures in these more conventional designs as well. All are of finest quality and surprisingly long wearing. Advertisement HARPER’S BAZAR nares PEPIN SEIS

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DP? MODERN, particular smokers, it is your insistence upon the best that makes Camel lead all other cigarettes. You are hard to please. In the true spirit of the modern age, you look for until you find value supreme in a cigarette. And it is this unre- mitting search for quality that puts Camel overwhelmingly first. For Camel combines all those virtues so indispensable to the cool, satisfying smoke. The choicest Turkish and Domestic Camels—so mellow, mild and unfailingly good tobaccos that nature’s sunny fields pro- duce. Arid a blending that brings these inimitable flavors and fragrances to the delighted taste of the smoker. Really, there is no other smoke like Camel. No other can be so everlastingly good. If your taste calls for the enchantment of the finest, just try Camels. Always taste- ful and smooth. Always so mellow and mild. “Have a Camel!” R. J. REYNOLDS TOBACCO COMPANY, WINSTON-SALEM, N. C.

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ee ee ee ae Seg ig on 1 ee ————— —————————— my? ¥e Ni Vee Doamner mento ew i SS Oe) SS x Pl see) eee raat %¢ MW “ ¢ attained netals of fore ~ ~~ ~ a ~ ~ ~ i ~ ' 7 ~ ~ slim silhouette. : on never Oe PhMhanOoUS fe fy CHENEY SILKS colored me

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for OCTOBER 192 66 ie, . | ‘Coop (0 vats ae 2 Vow a (Syne particular, fashionable, exclusive Shop in each important city is now presenting the newest “Shagmoor”’ Top Coats for Fall and Winter...It isa tradition with The House of Shagmoor to incorporate into its creations new niceties, excellencies and exclusivities every season...In the latest “Shagmoor” SY models you will find many new, intriguing features: a: Richer pure-wool fabrics—more fascinating patterns {7, —more luxurious furs—more graceful silhou- ettes — more perfect tailoring — silkier Sa, linings—warmer interlinings— precisely the way you want things...Stunning ‘7 Fashion Booklet on request— %., THE HOUSE OF SHAGMOOR (LINDER BROS. INC.), 498 SEVENTH AVENUE, NEW YORK CITY

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TOR, FEEI THAT GOLF Ama - y 9 . S og Yy Q ~é my Yee ai a AND WALK - - AND WALK. a AND DANCE RS 4 oo, ~ N VELVETIA SUEDE HOES for the links and cross country can be heavy and stiff, or soft and pliant. They can be made of unyielding materials, or they can be of the equally durable and so much more comfortable Velvetta Suede. There is something very sportsmanlike about this suede golf shoe above. A higher heel for town, but the same sort of sturdiness and comfort, makes the second shoe smart and unusual. It could go shopping all day long without tiring the most sensitive feet. The third shoe is the slipper that goes on to tea, or to dancing at dinner. And now that dancing is no longer done bob- bing politely on one’s toes, but with every bit of the foot, and most of the ankles, and some of the knees, it is the flexible feet in Velvetta Suede that bear up best. HUNT-RANKIN LEATHER COMPANY, 106 Beach Street, Boston Originators of VELVETTA SUEDE and CAVENDISH CALF VELVETTA SUEDE WILL NOT SOIL YOUR DAINTIEST HOSIERY HARPER’S BAZAR fi

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for OCTOBER 1927 Product IHAT SECOND LOOK— invariably it is a tribute to a graceful carriage, a flowing, unhampered walk! BEAUTY grows from the ground up SN’T it true? Only the woman who is beautiful in motion — who sweeps along lithe, supple, perfectly poised . . . only she is really beautiful! And, after all, natural grace in walking is usually a matter of perfectly fitting shoes that allow foot-freedom. Unhampered feet. But what woman wants to en- case her pretty feet in ‘‘common sense’ shoes? Certainly not you. And you won't have to—if you wear The Red Cross Shoe. You can search far without find- ing shoes more trimly smart than these. How perfectly they express today’s vogue in footwear— yet how restrained, how well-bred, how thoroughly thoroughbred to the tiniest stitch! Now slip on a pair of Red Cross Shoes—walk in them. Instantly yousensethe difference. No pinch- ing, no burning, no rubbing. In- stead, grateful support to the weary arch, a joyous snugness at the heel, unrestrained freedom for the flexing foot. Built over the famous exclusive “‘Limit’’ lasts, and with the ex- clusive Arch-Tone arch-support, Red Cross Shoes fit the foot per- fectly in action as well as repose . . there are no other shoes like them in all the world. P ( term ga for Young Ladies. Daughter, too, can Cyraceful | | enjoy foot-freedom in t a’ | The Red Cross Shoe b } i Free book! Send for this inter- esting little book that tells how to ‘‘walk in beauty.’’ Address Dept. H-2. breaking in. FITS THE FOOT IN ACTION OR REPOSE HE narrow band across the sole of every Red Cross Shoe is your assurance that it was made over one of the famous exclusive ‘‘Limit’’ lasts. You can wear this shoe home—for it needs no ee of THE UNITED STATES SHOE COMPAN Y—Cincinuati

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Po ae a - eC Serpe = = e- Se Ee 36 HARPER’S BAZAR 4 4 I ; } | | | | | a i 4 e) | | i ' | | | | | i A ete ae X a | es : / (olyoke ) Sil k , -At salons where fashions are created the chic ensemble is emphasized by the only real HOSIERY new shades in America, Holyoke Ortentals MGs at Holyoke, Massachusetts « New York Office, 358 Fifth Avenue

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for OCTOBER 1927 in tan cavendish {, LAIRD /CHOBER Nal =e 8 @) na] 2) 24 bb PHILADELPHIA { 4 ‘ 4

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saee Renee. yen Vie Cae ORY BO é ee ee 4 ) Ob a> of t i ii Lit the light HALLOWEEN ca Ther soft, warm, happy light in colors of many hues brings the joyous spirit of car- nival to any occasion. Noma Decorative Sets, strung in series of eight tiny Mazda Lamps to a set, come in all col- ors of the rainbow. Each set is equipped with a double-duty plug to fit either a lamp socket or a wall outlet. Also by means of an extension device, patented and exclusive on Noma Outfits, you may at- tach one set to another and have a number of strings radiating from a single outlet. As Mazda Lamps for house- hold use give greater brilliance, longer life and economy of cur- rent consumption, so do these tiny Mazda Lamps, which are standard on all Noma Outfits. Decorative outfits equipped with carbon filament lamps are often unsatisfactory and a dis- appointment both in brilliance and reliability. Noma Outfits mean no blown- out circuits, no hasty calls for the electrician, for Noma Prod- ucts meet the highest standards of electrical manufacture. Noma Outfits may be used over and over again as table and room decorations on gala occa- sions—parties, weddings, lawn fetes, dances—and especially for gladdening all holidays. NOMA Decoralive Lighting PRODUCTS FOR ALL FESTAV E OCCASIONS NOMA ELECTRIC CORPORATION 340-44 Hudson Street, New York "'Dealites,’’ "'Usalites,’’ M. Propp Co. Licensed under Noma patents. uy Mayda Pe auips OW HARPER’S BAZAR # ; ¢ 4 = i oo a

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R@ for OCTOBER 1927 “MARVELOUS ::: this new mattress gives the most restful sleep” says Mrs.Morecan BELMONT Mrs. Betmont’s Country House BEpRooM at Old Westbury, Long Island, has windows overlooking an English garden. The color scheme reflects her fondness for jade, orchid and Chinese pink. The Simmons Bed, Model No. 1541, finished in ivory with cané panels, is equipped with Simmons Spring and Simmons Beautyrest Mattress which Mrs. Belmont pronounces “simply marvelous.” Nore THe Fine Wire Colts which form the inner construction of the luxurious Beautyrest Mattress. Over- laid with finest cotton or hair, they ee : N my country house bedroom,” says Mrs. _ extend to the very edge, upholding the Morgan Belmont, “I determined to have — ™2**ress sides in firm, smartly boxed a lines. You can sit on the sides—they supreme comfort, without extravagant ex- won't be crushed! Best of all, your : . : ; : . - Beautyrest will keep these clean-cut pense. I got it—with that perfect mattress fines as long as it is used. The “per- known as the Beautyrest! It gives the most _ fect mattress,” Mrs. Belmont says. socttel sleep - : “Tt gives restful sleep.” No wonder this mattress is a success! It was perfected by Simmons, largest makers of beds, springs, mattresses. Its unique construction— fine steel coils buried in luxurious upholstering a —gives buoyancy that is “well, simply mar- who was Miss Margaret Andrews, velous,” as Mrs. Belmont Says. has an unusually vivid, fascinatin . si : weeded eta ad Na ee rt In furniture and department stores you will find this greatly t A Jes 5° ¢ . - “ hobbies. She is a familiar figure at improved Beautyrest Mattress, $39.50; Rocky Mountain the Belmont Park races and polo Region and West, $41.50; hair upholstered, $60 to $100. matches, and in the winter at the Simmons Beds, $10 to $60; Springs, $7 to $60. Look for the smart Bath and Tennis Club at name “Simmons.” The Simmons Company, New York, Mrs. Belmont’s boudoir chair is in Palm Beach. Chicago, Atlanta, San Francisco. orchid linen, piped with jade ~ 1 N Tr M non x SIM M ON BEDS,, SPRINGS,» MATTRESSES a { BUILT FOR- SLEEP }

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HARPER’S BAZAR LAIRD,SCHOBER 4*® COMPANY, PHILADELPHIA. ert tn FOr Ww eor ‘ Y 4 OHIO'SLARGEST RETAILERS Sseaysewir fitth City

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{RF jor OCTOBER 1927 rt focuses most frequently on the d developed in the extraordinary si the Mallinson looms. For the present season the silks are more beautiful thang They will appear in prog circles and wherever go dress is appreciated, Luxe Not merely “in style” but generally a year ahead of the fashion.

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HARPER’S BAZAR. f° } 9, & The Smart Interpretation of the Low Heel Mode lor the street costume and semi-sports wear, Paris continues to emphasize simplicity and the tailored line. Black, brown, dark blue and grey are accepted costume colors. In Millertaire shoes for fall, I. Miller combines the simplest of beautiful de- signs with materials ‘ which harmonize : perfectly withthe / ‘smartest sports 4 and street fabrics. THIS MARK NW rpentIFIEes SHOES WHICH \/ ARE MADE BY THE WELT PROCESS ROM P--A Millertaire shoe in black JORNY -- In brown ooze calf, one of patent leather, with a simple cut out the smartest Fall materials. The higher- design and a single strap. The heel cut of the modified oxford provides is amartly practical for street wear. adequate support for walking. Millertaire Modes FIFTH AVENUE at 46th STREET SHOPS AND AGENCIES IN PRINCIPAL CITIES THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES

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ZARY 7 2, £ CaS y 5 0 Vibe he Oy OCTOBER 1927 fo r 43 New Coats on Classic Lines—Luxurious Furs Newly Smart COATS I PRESENT the Leaders of Fashion in a group per- sonally selected. Sumptuous coats of broadcloth and suede fabrics—new furs exquisitely worked— for all daytime occasions. Coats—youthifying in 75 every smart line—uniting in ultimate perfection Paris latest style dictates—the finest furs obtainable and a skill in nicety of detail seldom found in coats so relatively low priced. VIRGINIA BEDELL. Virginia Bedell Coats Are Sold Exclusively in 19 Bedell Fashion Shops from Coast to Coast—Listed Here PITTSBURGH Fifth Avenue, near Wood Street Fulton Street, near Hoyt YEWARK Broad Street, corner West Park MILWAUKEE IE 1259 Woodward Avenue } Plankinton Arcade, Wisconsin Avenue CLEVELAND Euclid Avenue, near Ninth Street OS ANGELES ST. LOUIS Broadway corner Sixth Washington Ave., cor. Seventh St. BOSTON Washington St., cor. Bedford BUFFALO Main St., corner Mohawk ROCHESTER East Main Street, near Clinton WORCESTER Main St., near Chatham SYRACUSE South Salina, near Fayette PHILADELPHIA Market Street, corner Twelfth PORTLAND, OREGON Sixth Street, corner Alder BRIDGEPORT Main Street, corner Elm OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA 1530 Broadway

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A Cloth Coat lined with black and white fur by Lanvin MOST FASCINATING COAT... you wish you costume for the right person will be harder to achieve. could find one like it. In all the world of coats . nee Continuous subscription to Harper’s Bazar is the how did she ever happen upon it? And the dress, too, may. ' : , safest way to capture that elusive quality—distinc- with its soft gathers and its neckline, the very buttons declaring chic. The pearls, just the right length, the close-fitting hat, the flare of the cuffs . . . every- tion—in your dress, your hat, your furs and shoes and jewelry, the wave in your hair. where a rare harmony of line, color and taste. The November number brings you also Lloyd Os- bourne’s brilliant and startling mystery serial, “* Not to There is an imperishable charm about the clothes be Opened.” There are notable short stories, a dis- vou find in Harper’s Bazar. The great designers who tinguished article on the Metropolitan Opera by Pitts create them, Lanvin, Poiret, Lelong, Patou, seem to Sanborn, news of society, a unique selection of Christ- dramatize the spirit of Paris itself . . . its gay insou- mas gifts, new plays you must see, new books you ciance, its simplicity, its sophistication, its elegance. must read, and new places you must go. There is no This year Paris decries monotonous uniformity in the more exhilarating way to begin the winter season than mode. Individuality in dress is with us again. The right with a copy of Harper’s Bazar. A subscription on this coupon saves you $6. Bought at the single-copy price of 50 cents, these 24 issues would cost you $12. This offer cuts the single-copy price in half and you get the magazine for 25 cents. What is 25 cents a month to the satisfaction of feeling just right about your clothes for two whole years? Mail the coupon now. If your check book is not at hand, we will bill you later. Harper's Bazan, 119 West 407TH Street, New York Crry Please send me Harper’s Bazar for 0 2 years at $6 or for 0 1 year at $1. I enclose my check or you may charge this tome. (Extra issue free for cash.) $ years STREET ‘ ‘ DUAGH.6 us. , HB 10-27 7 HARPER’S BAZAR RAMI REE RA! ; RATT IG ORE LE OTH alg. ta rm nba)

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45 —— PHARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL c YOUR WINTER VACATION VOYAGE 22 TO 133 DAYS RATES FROM $12 PER DAY AROUND THE WORLD Have you dreamed of the sublime Taj Mahal? Have you longed to see it in its marble glory,bathed in Indian moonlight? Do Hawaii, Japan, China, beckon to you? Then sail with the Be/gen/and, the largest, finest liner ever to circle the globe. West- ward from New York Dec. 14 to 65 cities in 16 countries for 133 days. This cruise operated by the Red Star Line in conjunction with the American Express Co. Apply to Red Star Line, No. 1 Broadway; American Express Co., 65 Broadway, N.Y.; or other offices or agencies of either company. TO THE MEDITERRANEAN Dees fancy call you to sophisticated Monte Carlo, to the Valley of the Kings, to hallowed Palestine, to historic Greece? These are only part of what you see on our Mediterranean cruises by WhiteStar liners, Adriaticsailing Jan. 7,Feb.25;new19,000- ton Laurentic, Jan.17,Mar. 6. Each cruise 46 days. Stopovers from ship to ship arranged, Apply to White Star Line TO THE WEST INDIES Perhaps the spirit demands a change of environment, but time is limited. Then these 22-day cruises are made to order for you. There's a wealth of beauty and sun- shine on our voyages below the Southern Cross. White Star liner Calgaric (ex Orca) sailing Feb. 4 and Mar. 3 to Havana, Panama Canal and the interest centers of the Caribbean. Apply to White Star Line AOE IS BQ Pa RS RAL: UTMOST OCEAN SERVICE area eRe WHITE STAR LINE RED STAR LINE INTERNATIONAL MERCANTILE MARINE COMPANY No. 1 Broadway, New York City, our offices elsewhere or any authorized steamship agent.

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46

The Mauretania To Egypt And The Mediterranean... The Decree Of Smart Nomads...

They do it every year... seasoned travellers who take their Mediterranean with a dif- ference . . . to whom arriving in Naples means arriving on the Mauretania ...who drop in on Monaco the first week in March as a matter of course ... who quote the Mauretania’s menu to their fellow passengers as they lounge on dahabeahs up the Nile from Cairo... The Mauretania is the yacht de luxe... rooms like those of an English country house... odd corners filled with flowers . a gardener is a regular member of the crew... And your slightest wish is as care- fully attended to as the ship’s log—the service is CUNARD.

Monaco From New York Feb. 21, 1928 Apply to local agents or 25 Broadway, New York. CUNARD MAURE TANIA 70 ru MEDITERRANEAN Rates: $275 up

RB. planning to take a “cure” in Europe—find out about the cure at the Glen Springs. Set amid a thousand acres of fragrant pines on broad Seneca Lake are the only natural Nauheim Baths in America... radio active min- eral waters . . . guidance in diet, exercise, sleep, if you wish, by medical specialists... Boating, fishing, driving, ten- nis, golf . .. Delicious foods from private dairy and poultry farms. Music and dancing, too. The Baths and other treat- ments are especially suitable for heart, circulatory, kidney and nutritional disorders, rheumatism, gout and obesity. Complete medical and hydro- therapeutic facilities. Write forillustrated bookletstoWm. E. Leffingwell, Pres., Watkins Glen, New York.

THe Gruen SPRINGS AMERICAN NAUHEIM THE

M POLO « ARCHERY « SHOOTING %| D Hotel opens October 31 4 Write . o| for illustrated booklet to General i ©| Office, Pinehurst, N. C. «a a a is : mG : : Z ° inehurst ~ NORTH CAROLINA @ | x AMERICA’S SPORT CENTER ®

The PLAZA

FIFTH AVENUE A | The SAVOY- PLAZA Henry A. Rost General Manager “ OPENS OCTOBER 1927 »

ENTRAL PARK * =) Sg eusesns\= euuussuvod Bu paweusel en sly, a rere a NW? 2 4 a ls Fred Sterry President John D. Owen Manager ; ihed of Distinction 344433342 ET \ V se ek ee Sas oe 3

NEW YORK > \y . > se ace ANT woe us 02 08 Gs & & OD t ) Wh! ain LY fF KSWISVNX WD ANG XS

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PION EGON LS Gti as St 2 chs Be ha Tak HARPER’ 'S BAZAR HOTEL 47 and TRAVEL DEPARTMENT Mm Travel Service throughout Europe Independent or ith Escort, Securing All Mecsevetions in dvance. iaicae for Book E. edi terranea See the Wonderlands of the World! ASCINATING Africa, mysterious Egypt, the Holy Land, beautiful Madeira, gay Seville, Granada with its Alhambra, mighty Gibraltar, ancient Cadiz, Algiers, Biskra, Timgad, Tunis, Malta, Dardanelles, Constantinople, Bosphorus, Athens, Venice, Flor- ence, Rome, Naples, Messina, Taormina, Syracuse, Palermo, Monte Carlo, France, England —the glorious Cruise of the palatial Cunarder “ Scythia wonderful places, and many others. steamer, with membership limited to 390 guests—half capacity. The Cruise of the “Scythia” a Cute Cruise De Luxe to the Sailing January 25, 1928 ” will take you to all of these We have exclusively chartered this magnificent is the annual Mediterranean classic. Free stop-over in Europe, including return by S.S. “Beren garia,”’ ‘““Aquitania,” “Mauretania,” or any Cunard steamer. Full information on request FRANK TOURIST CO. (Est. 1875) 542 Fifth Ave., New York Philadelphia, 1529 Locust St. Chicago, 175 North Michigan Ave. San Francisco, 582 Market St. The unusually large and comfortable cabins—all with hot and cold running water—the suites and private baths, the spacious decks, the passenger elevators, the famous Cunard service and cuisine and the reasonable rates, all combine to offer the most attractive of all Cruises to the Mediterranean. Boston, 33 Devonshire St. Los Angeles, 756 So. Broadway by the famous liners CONTE ROSSO (Red Count) Sept. 27—Nov. 1—Dec. 10 CONTE BIANCAMANO (White Count) Oct. 15—Nov. 23 Last wordin beauty, comfort and safety Gibraltar—Naples—Genoa MEDITERRANEAN i By stopping at Gibraltar on all their Eastbound voyages, the “Counts” offer the fastest and most convenient route to Spain and Morocco. Cone nections also to Egypt. Near East and Far East via Naples. LLOYD SABAUDO LINE 3 State St., N.Y. Fall Travel A 60- = ne A — og = Mediterranean and N res on H. ROYAL MW ACHE PRI? NCE OLAV. Pre-arranged motor trips on the Conti- nent and in Northern Africa with English- speaking chauffeur-guides. Hunting tours in the best fish and game sections of Canada. Preferred reservations on all trans- Atlantic ships may be purchased through our office. Write for we ots, “The Cruise of the Royal Yach eer by Motor,” “The Call oj ‘the Wild FRANCO- BELGIQUE TOURS CO., Inc. Jrawer G 551 Fifth pm... New York, N. Y. Hotel La Salle 30 East 60th Street, New York A dignified quiet place of residence for perma- nent and transient guests. Centrally located. A few chotce suttes are now avatlable for lease by the year or Winter Season. CuarRLes LA PRELLE, Manager Courtesy the Red Star Line AT MONACO “LET'S RUN AWAY” WHEN we were young the world around the corner held untold delights; we always planned to run away and see them, but somehow never dared. When we grew older we longed to follow the line of queer names: Saskatchewan, Tampico, Guatemala, Nipigon. But we were involved in school and early business activities. Now we can go, so let’s run away—around the world! There are so many cruises, making it convenient to see queer sights, hear queer sounds, visit queer places— lovely places. Choose the world cruise which most suits your taste through the helpful service of Harper’s Bazar Travel Department. Booklets, information, advice, all are at your command and we urge you to avail yourself of them. HARPER’S BAZAR TRAVEL DEPARTMENT 383 Madison Avenue New York City Find adventure beyond tropical horizons ON THE NINTH ANNUAL CRUISE-TOUR to the WEST INDIES and SOUTH AMERICA New Days! New Ways! Another World! 67 matchless days of pleasure—a pro- cession of wonderful seaports to explore —a varied array of shore excursions into intriguing lands—Cuba! Panama! Peru! Chile! Argentine! Uruguay! Brazil! Trini- dad! Barbados! Martinique!—you visit them ALL! American Express Tour Managers smooth the way for youen route and ashore. Long auto drives!—intensely interesting side journeys by launch and train!—over the towering Andes by narrow gauge rail- way!—All expenses are included in the cruise fare—shore excursions, hotel ac- commodations, etc. No additional extra- expense optional trips. FARE (67 days) $1895 minimum Sailing from New York January 26, 1928 All outside, roomy cabins and modern comforts on splendid, spacious ships. Write for complete descriptive booklet ‘‘B’’—or apply to the nearest American Express office for further details, reservations, etc. Cruise-Tour Organized and Managed by the AMERICAN Express Travel “Department 65 BROADWAY, NEW YORK Always Carry American Express Travelers Cheques

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48 HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL and TRAVEL DEPARTMENT America’s own flag service to Europe When you go to Europe the American way, you are sailing on one of your own ships in luxurious comfort. From the time you step on the gangplank until you walk off, your trip is like a delight- ful visit in America’s finest hotel. Your trip abroad will be a complete success if you select one of these fine ships of the United States Lines. S.S. George Washington A luxurious colonial home on the sea that carries you in steady swift- ness On a trip of constant pleasure. First class rates from $210, second class from $136.25 and third class from $87.50. S. S. Leviathan America’s largest, fastest ship and flagship of the fleet. Every provision for unusual comfort, service and en- joyment. First class rates from $265, second class from $147.50, third class from $92.50. S. S. Republic The great 18,000-ton Cabin Ship. Modern and comfortable in every detail — exeedingly popular with ex- perienced travelers. Rates from $140, third class from $85. S. S. President Harding and S. S. President Roosevelt The fastest Cabin Ships on the North Atlantic, plus everything you desire in accommodations and cuisine. Rates from $145, third class from $85. TOURIST THIRD CABIN ACCOMMODA- TIONS ON ALL SHIPS IN SEASON WRITE FOR NEW BOOKLET See your local agent now for reservations from New York to Cobh (Queenstown), Plymouth, Cherbourg, Southampton and Bremen, or write— United States Lines 45 BROADWAY NEW YORK CITY SH, +2 /p >> 4 ¢ 3 $2-S7> tJ 0, Y é\ Nira 02 \ ? a AIRC NID the MVCDIRILID on the S.S. RESOLUTE ‘*Oueen of Cruising Steamers” N THIS modern magic carpet, you sail away in utmost luxury to lands you have always dreamed of seeing —Egypt, Palestine, East Africa, India, Java, Borneo, Siam, the Orient, Hawaii. One hundred and forty days of happy, wondrous experiences — lifelong treasures. Sailing eastward from New York, January 7th, 1928, you visit 63 ports and cities in 30 different countries — each at the ideal season. Rates including extraordinary program of shore excursions — $2000 and upward. Descriptive literature will be sent at your request HAMBURG-AMERICAN LINE UNITED AMERICAN LINES, INC., GENERAL AGENTS 28 BROADWAY +» NEW YORK Branches in Boston, Chicago, Philadelphia, San Francisco or local Steamship and Tourist Agents a Stop/ she said —and he did— at the Sign of a Good Hotel Hotels in the United System The ROOSEVELT New York City The BENJAMIN FRANKLIN Philadelphia The OLYMPIC Seattle, Wash. The BANCROFT = Worcester, Mass. The ROBERT TREAT Newark, N.J. The ALEXANDER HAMILTON Paterson, N. J. The STACY-TRENT Trenton, N. J. The PENN-HARRIS Harrisburg, Pa. The TEN EYCK Albany, N. Y. The UTICA Utica, N. Y. The ONONDAGA Syracuse, N. Y. The ROCHESTER Rochester, N. Y. The SENECA Rochester, N. Y. The NIAGARA Niagara Falls, N. Y. The LAWRENCE Erie, Pa. The PORTAGE Akron, Ohio The DURANT Flint, Michigan The PRESIDENT Kansas City, Mo. IN CANADA The MOUNT ROYAL Montreal KING EDWARD HOTEL Toronto ROYAL CONNAUGHT Hamilton The CLIFTON Niagara Falls The PRINCE EDWARD = Windsor The ADMIRAL BEATTY St. John, N. B. UNITED HOTELS COMPANY OF AMERICA 2.5 W. 4574 STREET NEW YORK CITY Affiliated Abroad: Important Hotels of U.N. 1, T. 1, Hotel System and Other Select Hotelsy and, in the Orient, with the Japan Hotel Association, Tokio, Japan, United Travel and Hotel Bureau: European Headquarters— Paris,6 Rue Caumartin; London, 7 St, James’s Street, S. W. 1. PSE LN

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49 HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL and TRAVEL DEPARTMENT || By CUNARD-ANCHOR LINES new oil burners. Rates include hotels, guides, drives, fees. 125 days, $1250 to $3000 Round the World WESTWARD ss “Caledonia,” sailing Jan. 16 8th cruise; 19 days Japan-China, option 17 days India: Palestine and Greece; also includes Havana, Panama Canal, Los Angeles, Hilo, Honolulu, Manila, Java, Burma, Ceylon, Egypt, Italy, the Riviera, Havre (Paris), Glasgow. Europe stop-overs. 65 days, $600 to $1700 Mediterranean ss “Transylvania,” sailing Jan. 25 24th cruise; Spain (Madrid-Cordova-Granada), 15 days Palestine and Egypt; also includes Madeira, Lisbon, Tunis, Carthage, Athens, Constantinople, Italy, the Riviera, Cherbourg, ( Paris), Glasgow. Europe stop-overs. Frank C. Clark, Times Bldg., N. Y. m Courtesy The Homestead Hot Sprinzs, Virginia Where the Fashionable World Gathers THERE are resorts where one may go for rest and quiet. There are resorts where sports and out-of-door activities prevail. And there are resorts where one may take the cure in true European fashion. The smart world flits to one or another at this season, carrying the social atmosphere of Park Avenue, Newport and Bar Harbor. The Hotel and Travel Department of Harper’s Bazar is thoroughly familiar with the hotels and localities which enjoy fashionable patronage and information regarding them is at your disposal. Just one of this magazine’s many helps to its readers. HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL & TRAVEL DEPARTMENT 383 Madison Avenue New York City ies: 1840 . EIGHTY .- Those Who Are Equally At Home On Both Sides — : iis Was! «Of The Adlantic prefer to cross in a Cunarder From Lenox or Westbury, to a house in Mayfair—the Boulevard St. Germain... a villa at Saint-Jean-de-Luz ... the haut monde flashes back and forth across the Atlantic. Too modern to over-emphasize tradition, they main- tain the family habit of traveling Cunard . . . because they prefer the suave personal attendance of Cunard stewards ...the charmingly furnished rooms . . . bath- rooms tiled and marble-tubbed . . . the lounge with open fire and a group of familiars fresh from Cannes or Longchamps . . . wearing celebrity as lightly as a boutonniere. And because they prefer to dine a la carte on the Atlantic... as on Park Avenue ... all meals are served superbly to individual order in a Cunarder without extra charge. TO FRANCE AND ENGLAND AQUITANIA + Oct. 5 * Oct. 26 Nov. 16 BERENGARIA + Oct. 12+ Nov. 2 Nov. 23 MAURETANIA + Oct. 19 + Nov. 9 Nov. 30 CUNARD See Your Local Agent SEVEN - YEARS + OF - SERVICE - 1927

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HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL a — The Winkels of Java The principal island of the Dutch East Indies is one of the most pictur- esque in the World, with its odd life, cluttered winkels (bazaars), beauti- ful batiks, native customs and Eastern color. Over 650 miles long and 129 wide, Java is rich in cof- fee, sugar, tea, indigo and tobacco. The Dutch have ruled italmost con- tinuously since 1610.We visit its capital, Batavia, on the World Cruise Supreme aboard the shecially-chartered Cunard Cruising Ship FRANCONIA Sailing from New York Jan. 7 Returning May 31, 1928 An entirely NEW ROUTE of 34,000 miles by sea and 10,000 by land two cruises in one, cov- ering the Northern and Southern Hemispheres ; a voyage of panoramic range and interest never before undertaken. Let us send you the unique Map and illustrated Guidebook Thos. Cook & Son New York Vhiladelplia Baltimore Bost« Chicas t. Loui San Francisco Los Angeles Portland,Or Toronto Montreal Vancouver eee ; ~. pak = nd TRAVEL DEPARTMENT OPENS OCTOBER 1°? 974443 JS \ 111) 1 ae \ / Vit ba 32 %' Pes | 4 = eg 11s cA a 411 = 4| gif | s 91 113 2 m fi: \\ | peer tied & age |] | eh oe eee | \ i i! 47434 a a 3 2 — =a g ——— ae a 3 } \ zy 4 gl a \ E33 ; : 5| 3] 3 N | a} 3] aE 3 3) 2 | \ 3) 7\ 3 3) 3 # i} il 1 393,43 3) | a} hd tan 1} a3)9 a lae hf | 3) 3) 3 a | 3] BY \ aaa 3 rh f 5 q x || Ml J TS i PLAZA Fifth Avenue at Central Park NEW YORK Under The Plaza Management HENRY A. ROST, General Manager A Hotel of Distinction WINTER ITALY ROME—ST. PIETRO ROME GRAND HOTEL de RUSSIE ROME HOTEL MAJESTIC NAPLES GRAND HOTEL CAPRI QUISISANA GRAND HOTEL CAPRI—LA MARINA ee ES 0 CT ART TNS WY, TDN (er

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Pagoda and Temple, Tokyo \m o/ | s \ - Glorious Days Strange, new, enchanting. Days of keen delight in the ancient East. Japan, China, the Philippines are filled with adventure unlike that in any other sec- tion of the world. Go now aboard palatial President Liners, broad of beam, steady and com- fortable. Outside rooms with beds, not berths. Luxurious public rooms. A world-famous cuisine. And attractive roundtrip fares that include your meals and accommoda- tions aboard ship. $600 Yokohama and Return. Sail from Seattle, returning via Honolulu to San Francisco. Or reverse the itinerary. $692 Shanghai and Return. Sail from San Francisco via Honolulu, Yo- kohama and Kobe, returning direct In Orient Lands from Yokohama to Seattle. Or reverse the itinerary. $750 Manilaand Return. Sail from Seattle via Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai and Hong Kong, returning through the same ports and via Honolulu to San Francisco. Or reverse the itinerary. Liberal stopovers of one week, two weeks or longer at any port. Every week a Dollar Liner sails from Los Angeles and San Francisco for the Orient (via Honolulu)and Round the World. Fort- nightly sailings from Boston and New York for the Orient via Havana, Panama and California. Every two weeks an American Mail Liner sails from Seattle for Japan, China and Manila. Fortnightly sailings from Naples, Genoa and Marseilles for Boston and New York. Complete information from any steamship or railroad ticket agent or 32 Broadway Dollar Steamship L American Mail Line 604 Fifth Avenue and 25 ramen New York 1018 Bessemer Buildin Z : Pittsburgh, Pa. 177 State Street j 101 Bourse Building . . Philadelphia. Pa. Dime Bank Building 514 W.: Sixth Street Los Angeles, Calif. 110 S. Dearborn Serece Robert Dollar Building San Francisco, Calif. 1519 Railroad Avenue South ; Lt EPARTMENT 51

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New York Boston, Mass. - Detroit 7 Chicago, Ill. Seattle, Wash.

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SCHOOLS i SO) » A53l ree: ’ =e .iad ; Land New York—Girls | sate: BRIARCLIFF Mrs. Dow’s School for Girls Margaret Bell Merrill, M. A., Principal BRIARCLIFF MANOR, NEW YORK General Academic and College Preparatory Courses Post Graduate Department Music and Art with New York advantages New Swimming Pool Music Department: Jan Sickesz, Director Art Department: Charles W. Hawthorne, N. A., Director SCOVILLE SCH29L A Distinctive Fifth Avenue School, Fac- ing Central Park and the Art Museum. Academic and Advanced Courses. Inten- sive College Preparation. Unsurpassed Recreational Opportunities, Address MISS ROSA B. CHISMAN, Principal 1005 Fifth Avenue, New York City The Gardner School for - 11_East 6ist Street Girls New York City A thorough school with de- lightful home life Fireproof building. College preparatory, academic, secretarial, post- graduate courses Music Riding, swimming, tennis 7ist year. Information from Miss Eltinge Miss Masiand THE FINCH SCHOOL POST-GRADUATE COURSES: Music, Arts, Home Making, English, Drama, Secretarial PARIS HOME of school emphi sized Travel, Arts, Languages Jessica E, CosGrave, Principal, 61 East 77th Street, New York City THE LENOX SCHOOL A Day School for girls offering College Preparatory and ‘ieneral Courses Pre-Primary to College Modern fire-proof building. Athletics Art and French. Catalogue on request Registrar, 52-54 East 78th St., New York. Principals An Individualized Service Harper’s Bazar has a personal contact with every school it advertises and the school directors are its friends. The School Department of Harper’s Bazar is under the direction of W. A. James who, because of his past seven years’ connection with Yale University, has a thorough understanding and a keen appreciation of the problems which confront both parent and child in the selection of a school. the selection of a school. may desire. 119 West 40th Street Mr. James and his assistants personally visit every school advertised in Harper’s Bazar, securing through these personal visits valuable information which we are certain will help you solve your individual problems in | Please feel free to call on us for any information you We shall be happy to give it without cost or obligation to you. Write or call. HARPER’S BAZAR SCHOOL DEPARTMENT New York City ‘Mew York— ‘Girls | Benanuurnnuanseraumuannns Highland Manor Country Boarding School and Junior College Non-Sectarian. All Grades. Conservatory of Music. EUGENE H. LEHMAN, Director Tarrytown-on-Hudson, New York, Box 102 rantwood hall Lawrence Park, Bronxville, N. Y. 28 min- utes from New York City. College Prepar- atory and general courses. Cottage System. Unrivaled location. The country with advantages of city. Telephone Bronxville 3116. Special Courses. SEMPLE SCH@L | Boarding and Day Pupils. College Preparatory, Post Graduate, Finishing courses. Languages, Art, Music, Dramatic Art. Outdoor Recreation. Mrs. T. Darrington Semple, Principal, 241- 242 ri tentral Park West, Box B, New York City. The Commonwealth School Social and Economic Problems, Budgeting, Hygienc and Home Nursing, Foods and’ Marketing including Cooking, Dressmaking, Millinery, Investments. One year and part time courses Box B, 136 E. 55th St., New York City DONGAN HALL A Country School for Girls. Within the limits of New York City College Preparation. General Course. Music. Art. Emma Barber Turnbach, Head Mistress Dongan Hillis aten Island, New York N.Y. School of Music & Art All branches of music and the arts. Dormitory in school building Students can enter any day. Diplomas conferred. Beautiful new_ building. Ralfe Leech Sterner, Director, 26 West 86th Street, New York, N. Y- CUDDER SCHOOL Day and Boarding. New York advantages. HIGH SCHOOL. Post GRADUATE COURSEs: Home Economics; Secretarial and Executive Training: Social Welfare and Community Service. Miss H. B. Scudder, 66 Fifth Avenue, | New York City. | FOR GIRLS MARY MOUNT acorn. SCHOOL COLL (Wilson Park) (Castle — ) Finishing Courses. Secretarial. Domestic Sole nce Swimming Pool. Branches Fifth Ave., N. Y. City: Paris tor Catalogue apply to Reverend Moth Tutoring SPEECH CORRECTION and CO-ORDINATION Defective speech of various degrees of severity corrected in children or adults. Building of the speaking voice. Individual instruction. Write for information. Elsa Brunotte, ? Lucerne, 1 W. 79th Street, New York Cit Banking and | St. F FAITH'S SCH@L A Country Sch College Preparatory, —7 A Music Vocational Guidance, Athletics. Excellent advantcges at Modercte cost Rev. Cuas, H, L. Forp, Box 24, Saratoga, N. Y Sssining School for Girls Junior College Dogortenent, Upper and Lower Schools. CLARA a — Principal, Box 108, Me a a... N. Garden City LONG ISLAND New York MIRIAM A. BYTEL, Principal Che Castle \ Miss Mason's School “ht~- for Girls ye 942. Tarrytown-on-Hudson. New York NOBLE SCHOOL For Girls from 6 to 14 KATHLEEN NOBLE JEROME White Plains, New York The KNOX A927 MRS. RUSSELL HOUGHTON COOPERSTOWN, N. Y. Gathedval School of Saint Box B CES BOX B New York—Boys aussie uote sooo unr, J One o Board Records ties — Athletics — Glee Club Applied Music— Fireproof Dormitory 21st Year For Illustrated Catalog, . Telephone Kingsbridge 3123 RIVERDALE A Well Balanced Country School for Boys f the Best College Entrance Unusually extensive and varied activi- Club — Science Art Club—Dramatic Association Orchestra. 200 Students—half boarding, half day iddress FRANK S. HACKETT, Headmaster Riverdale-on-Hudson, Upper New York City New York—Boys New York Military Academy A ScHoou or DistincrTion CoORNWALL-ON-HUDSON New York CHitbton Seen D.S.M. Brigadier-General, Superintendent HAMILTON INSTITUTE FOR BOYS FOR GIRLS 347 West Sin Street End Ave. at 87th St. Grammar and High College Preparatory. School. 34th Year Secretarial, omestic begins Oct. 6th. Science. 24th Year. Both Schools Under the Personal Direction of N. ARCHIBALD SHAW, M.A. for fifty boys 6 to 16. Beau- Kyle School tiful location. 22 miles from New York. 37th year. Fine Athletic field. ** Your school looks so homelike’’—visitors’ expression. Summer Camp in the Catskills. DR. PAUL KYLE Box 57, Irvington-on-Hudson, New York The STORM KING SCHOOL Announces as Headmaster, Mr. R. J. Shortlidge, recently A of the Choate School, and Headmaster of Camp Marienfeld. For catalog addre: he Headmaster, Cornwall-on-Hudson, N. Y. | Re eh Se ht @8 5 01 0) Oar gelam = Teh a Rev. J. M. Furman, L.H.D., Headmaster, Box 913 TARRYTOWN-ON-HUDSON, N. Y. THE MANLIUS SCHOOL “Saint John’s’’ Military. College preparatory. Thoroughly equipped. Business cours:. Junior Department. Walordered athletics. Catalog. Gen. Wm. Verbeck, Pres., Box 1210, Manlius, N.Y. SCHOOL AWLIN FOR BOYS Dr. Frederick L. Gamage, Headmaster Pawling New York THE BERKELEY-IRVING ,2:'s3. 48th year. Ree — to College. Small classes. Junior dep Swimming Pool. Gymnasium. School bus me for boys. Catalog. Carnes open now for next school year, beginning Sept. 29.) 1. Endicott 56: 39. 311 W. 83rd St., New" York City The MOHONK SCHOOL A Boarding School for Boys from 10 years to College Age College Preparatory, Technical and Business Courses. Outdoor Life and Health Stressed. vr catalog address JEROME F. KIDDER, Box B, Mohonk Lake, New York REPTON SCH@L e?s the reguirements Of the younés boy For boys 6 to 15. English University Masters, Prepares for best college preparatory schools. Vv. Willoughby Barrett, Headmaster Box V, Varrytown, New Yor St. Johns School NING -ON-HUDSON, N.Y Prepares Boys for Colleze and Business. a Military training. Athletics. Separ: classes. cs WILLIAM ‘ADDISON school for boys under tm RANNEY, A.M., Prin WOODLAND SCHOOL Boys 8 to 18. In Catskills. 1500 feet elevation. Ideal for devcloping strong manly boys, preparing for college or life. Skiing, snow-shoeing, skating. Athletics, Modern buildings, 315 acres. Erwin S. Spink,B.A., Headmaster, Phoenicia,N.Y

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vn r Se i 7 PE & Re w a h: fe f i & ¥ 53 The Advice of Harper’s Bazar School Experts Awaits Your Asking gun ‘ | Student Reskfemces vention TEASDALE RESIDENCE For Girl Students and Young Women who come to New York to pursue courses of study and for a social season. Chaperonage Booklet on Request 326 West 80th St. Riverside Drive Tel. Susquehanna 7858 Languages usic THE JANE ACORN Formerly the Acorn Club NOW AT 331 W. 101st Street, New York City Residence for young women Musie Art Business Mary F. FRASER, M. ETHEL SLITER, Directors Booklet on Request Seventh year Wiss Belden’s Residence At Riverside Drive A beautifully appointed home for girl students. Large sunny rooms, with or without pri- vate bath. Centrally located. Open all year. Elective chap- eronage. Catalogue Tel.: Susquehanna 0045 321 West 80th St., New York MISS FERGUSON’S RESIDENCE A home of exclusive patronage for girls studying in New York. Conveniently located. Chaperon- age if desired. French. Open all year. Est. 1915. Tel. Susquehanna 5343. Catalogue. 311 West 82nd Street, New York City The Misses Patterson's Residence A private home for young women studying Music and Art. Chaperonage if desired. Booklet. Open all year. 336 W. 89th Street, N. ¥. C. Schuyler 10167 Mrs. Boswell’s 344-346 West 84th St., at Riverside Drive, New York. “A Home away from Home” for girls at- tending any school, college or studio. Open all year. E lective chape ronage. Languages. Catalogue. Twelfth year. Telephune Susquehanna 7653. Wrs. Sneden’s Residence 6 West 87th Street (Central Park), New York A select and charming home for girl students. Yentrally located. 9th year. Phone Schuyler 4032. Special arrangements for Summer Students, New York—Co-ed. BIRCH WATHEN SCHOOL A modern day school for boys and girls 150 West 94th Street It 147, 149 West 93rd Street | New York City New York—Co-ed. Pennsylvania— Girls | Pennsylvania—Boys UNNI 2 A Progressive All Day School for Children 4 to 12 THE BENTLEY SCHOOL 145 West 78th Street, New York City Bertha M. Bentley, Director FRENCH AMERICAN KINDERGARTEN Kindergarten and primary school. Children three to ten years. Outdoor activities under French teachers. Booklet on request. a W. AR MR ox ee M. 8ist St., BN. a BUT RK 27 E. Rhinelander 9043 New Jersey—Girls SCHOOL OF THE Oak Knol HOLY CHILD Blackburn Road, Summit, New Jersey School for Girls, College preparatory and elementar departments, Collegesat Rosemont, Pa., and Oxford, England. Finishing Schools, Paris, ‘Rome, F’ ribourg. ROSE HAVEN) For thirty girls from 5 to 14 years. Meets exact de- mands of exceptionally particular parents. Beauti- ful estate, excellently equipped. 8 miles from We Ss. Mary Birchard, Box 17-H, Tenafly, N. J. MisS BEARD’S SCH@L College Preparatory, Cultural and Special Courses. Outdoor Sports. Registrar, Orange, New Jersey Address: KENT PLACE SCHOOL for GIRLS Summit, New Jersey. An Endowed School. Thirty-Third Year. On the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the hills of New Jersey, twenty miles from New York. College Preparatory. Academic, Music, Art, Athletics HARRIET LARNED Hwnt, Principal DW IGH SCHOOL FOR GIRLS College Preparation. Special ow gu Courses Athieti nis, Riding. Catalog on request. Englewood, N. J. Write for iltustrated book'ets. Miss E. S. Creighton, Principal, New Jersey— Boys BORDENTOWN Waivers Thorough preparation for college or business. Efficient faculty, small classes, individual atten- tion. Boys taught how to study. R. O. T. C. 43rd year. Cngoaye- Ce D. LANDON, Principal, Drawer C-30, BORDE NTOWN, N. J. B L A I R A College Preparatory School for Boys Founded _ 1848. Imposing buildings, equipped. Thorough instruction. 7 for younger boys. Endowed. Write for catalog. Charles H. Bree ay A.B., A.M., Headmaster, Box Z, Blairstown, N PRINCETON § oe. | SCHOOL B. ine, Headmaster Preparatory for all” pa mk, Rapid peogrensy Limited number of pupils and freedom from rigic class organization. Excellent equipment. Special attention to athletics and moral welfare. New gymnasium. 54th year. For catalog, address Box B, Princeton, N. J WENONAH MILITARY ACADEMY 12 miles from Philade ~ College entrance, busi- ness and special cours Horsemanship under in- structor of E duitation. Special school for Juniors. For Catalog and View + write to the Registrar, Box 442, Wenonah, N. PEDDIE Boys from 30 states. acres. Athletics for every boy. - Forms in- cluding two grammar grades. 62nd year. Nine miles from Princeton. Box 10S,/Hightstown, N. J. Emphasizes preparation for College Entrance Board Examinations. Modern buildings. 60 THE WELLS SCHOOL of New York City Pre-School, Kindergarten and Elemen- tary. Outdoor Playground. ALL DAY SCHOOL FOR GIRLS AND BOYS MARGARET ELIZABETH WELLS, Ph.D., Director 175-177 E. 78th Street’ Butterfield 4414 New York City DEVIT EE Sout TARY $50 monthiz. B Bove, 6 to 14. Modified military fgetsing- aan 12 mo 60 acres. es from N. Y. C. Mag. L. Dsvitte, Box M, hy N. No. FREEHOLD ii SCHOOL for boys 7 to 15. Modified military wohing— inculcates obedience, orderliness, self-reliance he school with the personal touch. ‘Write for Catalog. Address Major Chas. M. Duncan, Box 10: Freehold, N. J. MONTESSORI GROUPS And Primary School for Boys and Girls 3 to 10 years of age. All-day program 9-4, including mid- day dinner. A fully equipped outdoor playground for the very little. ones is its chief attraction. LOUISE SNY 7, _Princip Mrs al 27 East 76th Street, N. Y. Rhinelander 7142 HAPPY HOUR7 8] Yi Kindergarten and Primary Booklet on request MRS.M.C. WHYTE SI ae: — 345 WEST OGTH STREET NEWYORK CITY — Pennsylvania—Co-ed. Co-educational 227 acres woods and fields bordering the Neshaminy. Manual training, x oC household arts, all athletics. Own farm. Catalogue. G. A. WALTON, A. M., Prin., Box 255, George School, Pa. Montessori Country and City Schools Children 3 to 12 years Scientific direction covering 12 years’ eupettenee. Able teachers and housemothers in charge riculum includes all normal grade studies. Mrs. Anna Paist Ryan, Directress, Montessori First Boarding and Day School, Philadelphia, Pa. 2] A scHooL of high standarus, pro gressive methods talog inter- . eign or ||| Maity Lyon Schaal Birmingham School Thorough college preparation and courses for girls not going to college. Music, Fine Arts. nasium, swimming pool. Catalog. Grier, President, Box 135, Birmingham, p CUM~- m Suburban to Philadelphia. wy SS ceacnon t leeesp:) College Preparation. Music All s Sports—Riding. For Catalog address: The Secretary, Box B, Bryn Mawr, Pa. OGONTZ SCHOOL for GIRLS Two years of unusual finishing ro Also College Preparatory Course. Rare opportunities in Music and Art. 25 minutes from Phila. Trained psychologists study individual needs and recommend studies. Est. 1850. Rydall Hall for younger eitts. Abby A. Sutherland, Prin., Ogontz School, Montgomery Co., Pa. LINDEN HALL iad. Large Campus. 4 Buildings. New Gym and Pool. Endowment permits low tuition. yo B Preparatory, Secretarial, Music. ps Separate Junior School,’ Riding. Sports. Stengel, D.D., Box 122, Lititz, Toaueracis. Bishopthorpe Manor Home Economics, Secretarial, Expression, Art, Music. College preparatory. New Gymnasium and Pool. Horseback Riding. For catalog address r. and Mrs. C. N. Wyant, Box 246, Bethlehem, Pa 120 Girls SCHOOL Tis5 SAYWARD’S Farcinus 34th year. College Preparatory, Secretarial, Music. Domestic Science Courses. Junior and Senior Boarding Departments. Outdoor sports, horseback riding. Address: Miss S. Janet Sayward, Principal, x B, Overbrook, Pa. “(Suburb of Philadelphia). DAR B&TON College Preparatory and Graduate School Courses. 60 Acre Estate 19 mil. from Phila. John H. Bell, Headmaster, L. G. Schacterle, Registrar, Box B, West Chester, Pa. For BEAVER COLLEGE ,f., Continuing the work of Beechwood. General and | Junior College courses with Diploma and Degree. Splendid equipment. New $1 Catalog. dress Box B, Jenkintown, Pa. PENN HALL For girls. Academic and college preparatory. Junior Conservatory. Mon ue at Gooen City, 25 acre campus. Mod = ) Rages. For catalog address = S. Ma iM, , Headmaster, Box H, Chambersburg, Journalism, 00,000 dormitory. Pennsylvania—Boys and acnioties. Gymnasium. Pool. INE ACADEMY Thorough — Preparation. Small classes. Ex need men teachers. e School pF gg Tuiti n $600. 20-acre us in > country wear Scranton. Co: hed ! 1, Ria School offering 6th to 2 8 lathletic ay ne for a ‘. y ~ k. Add: Coe, Principal, Box sy foryv = ctoryville, SWARTHMORE EON ANS Vere Torr oe | Head Masters OX B, SWARTHMORE, PENNSYLVANIA NAZARETH HALL Founded in 1743. _A famous old military academy. Moderate rates. Preparation for College and busi- ness. Junior School. Personal attention in class Week in camp. ». Thaeler, D.D., Box 50, Nazareth, Pa. YES There is an answer to the school problem—the Ktskit Plan. Write for some real information. Dr. A. W. Wilson, President, Box 930, Saltsburg, Pa. Kiskiminetas School for Boys. D H. ROG ev. New England—Boys (ILFORD Senast we specialize in just this one I mi | PREP- ATION. Usual two years’ work in one year. Noe a cramming school. This progress made possible by tutorial methods, teaching ‘‘How to Study,” and classes limited to five. Cata- logue and examination record on request. Write } BOX H, MILFORD, CONN. J ——7 COLLEGE PREPARATION Unusual success in preparing boys for the College Entrance Board examinations, because PAestminster Prepares Boys for College Upper and peal School. Summer and Winter Sessions AYMOND RICHARDS MCORMOND, A.B. (Yale), Head Master, Simsbury, Connecticut. RECTORY SCHOOL Episcopal school for boys 8 to 14. Each boy receives special attention in “How to Study.” Supervised athletics. Homecare. Catalog. Rev. and Mrs. F. H. Bigelow, Pomfret, Conn. RIDGEFIELD A School in the foothills of the Berk- shires limited to fifty boys. Six forms. College preparatory. Two hours from New York. Splendid health record. THEODOREC. JEssuP, Headmaster, Ridgefield, Conn. ROXBURY pam. yy *y the he Patoviat Rethod. A. B. SHERIFF, Headmaster, Cheshire, Conn. De MoTTE SCHOOL NEW CANAAN, CONNECTICUT (near N.Y.C.) Prepares Boys (9 to 19) for any college. Classes average five boys—thorough teaching. Complete Pt in quiet country cnviqnment.. Rs. Round CHESTNUT: HILL 4. College Preparatory Boarding School for ore. In the open hill country, eleven miles North of Philadelphia. Complete equipment. Senior and Junior Schools. T. R. Hyde, M.A. (Y: Box B, Chestnut” FRANK Noe eARSHALL iill, Pa. Widely Reco ) ry School. Wholesome wr oot Lite Life and Sports. Unusual Equipment # Lecation. 1,200 Boys Prepared for College in the last ears. E. M. Hartman, Pd.D., Prin., ate aos, Lancaster, Penn. LRORENCE WASHBURN DEMOTTE, S. B. HEADMASTER DeWitt canton HE bDberd Ach. Prepares for College and Technical School Expert Tutoring Methods. $1200. JoHNB. HEBBERD, A.M., CottonSt., NEWTON, Mass. ITCHELL 20 miles from Boston. Complete modern equipment. All athletic sports. Horsemanship. Good fellowship and homelike atmosphere. Separate junior school. Aaenantert. Mitchell, BoxB, Billerica, Mass. New England—Boys ORCES TER THorovéH CoLLEGE PREPARATION For Boys for Catalog Address,Worcester Academ y,Wercesler, Massachusells 93582 YEAR

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54 All These Schools Receive Our Personal Endorsement New England—Boys A century-old school of distinctive charac- i= for boys. yy! octiege, preparatory. ; plete equipment. Gomnasium with swimming pool. N spite of the fact that many of the best schools L.. Ralston Thomas, Principal, Providence, e ° 9 have closed down on registrations, the Harper’s NewrowN*22E"" FOR BOYS | Bazar School Department still knows of openings and Small classes insure indi- . . e vidualattention. Highscholastiestanding, Certificate will be able to help you find the school that will meet priv seges. A — Beautiful surroundings. in li ¥ l | ror ca ogs adarcss y 7 £ yay : Registrar Newtown Academy, Newtown, Conn. your individual needs, Through personal visits by members of our staff we are | in close touch with every school advertised in Harper’s New England—Co-ed. , vena . my Bazar; and if you will tell us your problem, we shall be “ ” EXCEPTIONAL YEAR ROUND | happy to tell you of the schools where enrollment is FAIRHOPE?” Counrey scuoot and cAMP. PPY ) | 7th yr. Boys, Girls, 2 to 12; parental care, home- like environment, usual studies, creative handwork, | individual I developme nt; swimming, riding, farming. moderate. 93 minutes from MR. and MRS. JOHN II. CONROY, Ridgefield, Conn. Tel. 630. ST. ELIZABETH OF-THE-ROSES A Mother School Episcopal. oul a F es” Children 3 to 12. One hour from New Usual studies. Outdoor sports. RB, amp. Stamford 2173, Ring 1-4. Mrs. W. B. StToppaRD, Shippan Point, Stamford, Conn. “The School T hi it Develops Initiative.” New England—Girls HOWE-MAROT A Country Boarding School for Girls College Preparation. Varied Outdoor Life Mary L. Marot, Headmistress, Thompson, Conn. THE LOVELAND SCHOOL A girls’ school where the work is arranged to meet needs of the individual as she grows and develops, Nursery age through high school. bie Loveland Tuller, Ph.D., Director 463 Angell Street, Providence, R. I. OW AND HEYWO 2 OT) A COUNTRY SCHOOL FOR GIRLS preparation. General and Post Graduate courses. Sep: wate cottages for younger girls. Sixty-first year. Catalogue on Request, SHIPPAN POINT, STAMFORD, CONN. HILLSID For Girls [om 45 miles from New York. Preparation for ve College entrance guammepeens. General courses. Organized athlet Margaret R. Brendiinger, A.8. Vida Hunt Francis, A.B. (Smith) WALNUT HILL SCHOOL "wis A College Preparatory School for Girls. Outdoor life. Athletics and winter sports. 17 miles from Boston MISS FLORENCE BIGELOW, Principal THE WEYLISTER A resident and day school for young women 9 miles from New Haven, 1 % hours from New York. One-year, two-year courses. Collegis ae secretarial. MARIAN W. SKINNER, M.A., Louise H. ScorrT. Box B, The Weylister, Milford, Conn. HOUSE IN THE PINES mass" A School for Girls. 30 miles from College preparatory and general courses activities. Horseback riding emphasized MISS GERTRUDE E. CORNISH, Principal. an econ RM z horough college Norwalk, Conn. (Vassar) Prins. Natick, Boston Outdoor possible at this late date. 119 West 40th Street A letter, a wire or a personal call will be given prompt attention—without any expense to you. HARPER’S BAZAR SCHOOL DEPARTMENT New York City New England— Girls LASELL SEMINARY A school that develops well-trained, healthful and resourceful womanhood. Home Economics, Music, Art, an Preparatory and Secretarial courses. inslow, Principal, 130 Woodland Road, Auburndale, Mass. MOUNT IDA SCHOOL £2 GIRLS 6 MILES FROM BOSTON. Accredited Junior College Course. Also Accredited College Prepara- tory and Finishing Courses. Vocational Courses. Home Managemen’ rt, Dramatics retarial and Music. Riding, Swimming, Golf, all “Athletics. FOR mma address 252 SUMMIT STREET, NEWTON, MAS CHOATE SCHOOL 1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Mass. A country school in a model town. For girls 5 to 19 years of age. College preparatory and General Courses. Outdoor life. Address Augusta Choate (Vassar), Principal Southyield Point Hall Suburban to N. Y. GRAY COURT for Girls | Accredited. C._ All_usual | studies. Also Secretarial. Arts and Crafts. Horse- back riding. peace. All Athletics. Apply for Cata- log to: JESSIE CALLAM GRAY, Prin Box 6, Siconeed on the Sound, Conn. TENACRE A Country School for Girls 10 to 14. Preparatory to Dana Hall. 14 miles from Boston. All sports | and athletics supervised and adapted to the age | of the pupil. Excellent instruction, care and in- fluences. Miss Helen Temple Cooke, Dana Hall, Wellesley, Mass. The Mary C. Wheeler Schoo School for Girls. College eee: aan. i post-graduate courses. Musie, Riding, Swimming and out- her sports. residence io. Fou girls. VIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND A Modern Dramatics. Country | | Town gat } | | | | Washington—Girls MUSIC, DANCING, DRAMATIC ART, KING-SMITH A Residential School For Young Women, offering unique and unexcelled opportunities for cultural or professional study and personality development, both artistic and stimulating. work arranged that student desires. Unusual social advantages of Washington; New York; preparation for foreign travel. LANGUAGES, LITERATURE, lege FINE AND elective. APPLIED ARTS Mr. & Mrs. Aveust Kine-Saurra, Directors, 1751 New Hampshire Ave., Washington, D. C. STUDIO-SCHOOL of Washington and Paris in an atmosphere that is Any art, academic or col- All subjects Tuition according to amount of work taken. week of opera in N ORT FOR GIRLS N Regular preparatory course for Smith and other colleges. One-year intensive course for high-school graduates. Nine acre campus. Outdoor sports. Address: School Secretary, Box B, Northampton, Mass. THE MARY A. BURNHAM SCHOOL For girls, Est. 1877. College preparatory and special courses, also one-year intensive college preparation. Opposite Smith College campus. Outdoor sports. Limited to 100. Miss Helen E. Thompson, Principa!, Northampton, Mass. OWARD SEMINARY Where New England Traditions Count in the Girl's Education, Outdoor Sports and Recreation. College Preparatory, General, and other Cours’s. Accredited. Address Mrs. George W. Emerson (A. B., Smit’ 26 Howard Avenue, West Bridgewater, Mass. Kendall Hall for ciris on the seashore. 50 minutes from Boston College Preparatory General and Post Graduate Courses , &kiine, skating, tennis. Charles P. Kendall, Box B-7, Pride’s Crossing, Mass Fifty Minutes from GLEN EDEN Fink Menctn’ For high school girls or graduates. Superb equip- ment, social training, athletics, charmingly home- like. Seect membership. 18th year. Regular and gPecial courses. Address for catalogue and views. Rec. Sec’y, GLEN EDEN, Stamford, Conn. | SUBURES OF WASHINGTON D.C, we Nation’s Capital in 90-acre beauti- ul esta Two-year Junior College courses 4 four-year preparatory courses. Special courses in Music, Art, Expression, Dramatics, Home Economics, Secretarial Work. Every athletic activity. 8 charming club houses are the centers of a joyous social life. For catalog address the Registrar, Box 170, Forest Glen, Md. JAMES E. AMENT, Ph.D., LL.D., Pres. Che Wisses Stone’s School College Preparatory, General Academic, and Ad- vanced Cultural Courses. Art, Music, Secretarial and Domestic Science. Pre paration for Travel. Miss Isabelle Stone, Ph.D. and Harriet Stone, M.S. 1626 Rhode Isiand Ave., N. W., Washington, D. C. Arlington Hall A Junior College for Girls In 100-acre woodland park, 15 minutes from White House. Standard 4-year High School and first two years of College. Art, Expression, Dramatics, aoe, Mecmomaten, etari: in: . in, Pao be ogg Penna. Ave. Station, Box bist, Washington, Dc c. BBOTSFORD SGIOOL Boarding and Day School for Girls Primary to College. Progressive methods. 2201 MASSACHUSETTS AVE., WASHINGTON, D.C R SCHOOL OF EXPRESSION AND PHYSICAL EDUCATION Accredited 2-year rmal courses, Physical Education and pression. Fall term opens Sept. 26. Dormitories. Catalog. 1409-B Massachusetts Ave., N. w, Washington, D.C. THE MARJORIE WEBST mi Ott an Southern—Girls prmamemmmuy sine Fr Women GO rain COLLEGE For Women. 60 from Washing Dom. Sci., Secretarial, Kindergarten ” Education,” Music; all "leading to DE~ Graduates in deman Private baths. iding. Athletics. Est. 185 LUTHERVILLE, MD. penb rier College Junior College, Exclusively for Young Womes In mountains near White Sulphur Springs Swimming pool, CATALOG OF Box B, Conservatory advantages in Music, Art and Dramatics Secretarial. Rising, :wimm.og, nnis,etc. Catalog: President Frenca W. THOMPSON, LEWISBURG, WesT VikGINU RENAU conttinist CONSERVATORY Select patronage 30 states; location foothills Blue Ridge Mts. North of Atlanta. Standard A. B. course; special advantages, music, oratory, art, domestic science, physical culture; 31 buildings, swimming, boating, horseback riding, ete. For cat- alogue, address BRENAU, Box H, Gainesville, Ga, SULLINS COLLEGE Bristol Virginia For Girls. High School and Junior College Courses. Music, expre ssion, Domesiiec Science, ete. New buildings: every room connecting bath. Swim- ming Pool. Horseback riding. _Mountain climate. . E. MARTIN, Ph.D., Pres., Box B. VIRGINIA COLLEGE For girls. A leading school of the South. Four years preparatory, Junior College, and Elective Courses. Accredited. Music, Art, Expression, Home Econom- ics, Journalism, Secretarial and Library Courses. Golf, Tennis. Catalog. Mrs. Julia Abbott C uller, A.M., Principal, Box B, Roanoke, Virginia. TheChevron School for Girls. Episcopal. College Preparatory. Music and Art. Athletics and life in the open. Hockey. Individual instruction. MARIAH PE SNDLET "ON _DUV Old Charles Town, W. Va. Faitlx, Fall For girls. In Shenandoah Valley. College prepara- tory and special courses. Riding, golf, all field sports. $60,000 Gymnasium. Swimming Pools. Catalog. Box H, Park Station, Waynesboro, Va. ST. HILDA’S HAL In the Shenandoah Valley Elective Courses. WARD-BELMONT FOR GIRLS AND YOUNG WOMEN Offers4 yearspreparatory,2yearscollegework. Fully accredited. All Sports including Riding. C omplete appointments. For information address The Secre- tary, Belmont Heights, Box 305, Nashville, Tenn, Stuart Hall, Staunton, Virginia Episcopal school for girls—Eighty- fourth Session. Rich in traditions of the alive to the needs of the present. Thorough colle "ae preparation. Out- door sports. Address Mrs. H. N. Hills, A.B., Box H. MISS HARRIS’ FLORIDA SCHOOL Northern Management and Faculty. Outdoor classes and ocean bathing October to June. timate home influence. Separate building younger girls. Jllustrated Catalog. Julia Fillmore Harris, Principal, 1057 Brickell Avenue, Miami, Florida. In- for School Information Select your school from a recommended list. The best are here. If you desire additional in- formation, write Harper’s Bazar School De- partment, 119 W. 4oth Street, New York City. Southern—Boys OME National patronage of over 200 boys Prepares for All Colleges. Fully Accredited. Magnificent Equipment. Single Rooms. Gym, Pool. One teacher to every eight boys. Address: Murray P: BrusH, Pu.D., Box 40, Port Deposrt, Mp. ST UYVESANT SCHOOL FOR BOYS 50 Miles from Washington In foothills of Blue Ridge. Healthful, open-air life for boys. Prepares for college. Write for Catalog. EDWIN B. KiNG, Headmaster, Warrenton, Virginia. AIRMONT 28TH YEAR Conedo 1 Pre 4 Eight 2- Year Junior College diploma eourses. Educational advantages of Nationa! Capital, Address Princival, 1713 Massachusetts Ave., Washington, D. C. Martha Washington Seminary for girls. City and country advantages. Junior Collegiate and High School forms. Household Sclence. Secretarial Science, Music, Art, Expres- sion. Address Secretary, Box B, Oakcrest, Wash- ington, D. GUNSTON HALL 1924 Florida Avenue, Washington, D. C. For Girls. Preperetory. Academic, Collegiate Departments. Music, Expression, Domestic Science, Sccretarial Sane s. Athletics. Mary L. Gildersieeve, Mary B. Kerr, M.A., Principals. Richard N. Mason, Bus. Mer. t. Margarets cris A Home School at the Nation's Capital. Personal Supervision, Junior College Courses. Preparatory, General and Secretarial Courses. Moderate Cost. Address Mrs, FRANK A. GALLUP, 2115-B California St., Washington, D. C. RIVERSIDE in ‘South: ~ % i enter an tien: Address 3 ie. Col. Sandy Beaver, Box H, Gainesville, Georgia STAUNTON “icavenv’ One of the most distinguished schools in America preparing for Universities, Government Academies, Business. Superb disciplinary training pe by academic excellence. CoOL THOS. ; SSELL, B.S., Pres., Box B. (Kable Station), seaenton, Va. TPIS Skil som colle: Loca taria Gulf ve

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= Uw ~~ 0U/”" . =e6hlUh + oe .- fos

A i

Progressive Schools Advertise—The Best 55 Are Here

Southern—Boys 1 | E SEND US THE BOY—-AND W. WILL RETURN YOU THE MAN Skilled instructors; personal supervision; whole- some atmosphere. Graduates accredited at E astern colleges. Special Junior Dept. and campus for boys 7- 16. Locate , beach. Coes air sleeping quarters. Non-s . Write tor catalog r Const ” Military A Academy, R-8, Gulfport, Miss. ONALDSON AB Episcopal School in the Blue Ridge Sosthitia, near Baltimore and Washington. scholastic standing ) 7 fireproof dormitory ready for fall, slow, B. A., Box 45, lichester, Md. tariao. Gulf

Boys 10-18 y: Supervised athletics. Address T. N. Den

MASSIE SCHOOL A College Preparatory School for Boys In the blue grass country near Lexington. Thorough instruction, new equipment. All Sports. R. K. Massie, Jr., M. A., Box 459, Versailles, Ky. ASSANUTTEN College preparatory for manly boys. Small cls anes. Modified military train- In influences. wrth mieten Jew sw bens oe Dr, Howard J. Benchoff, Headmaster, Box 35,

th. Va.

MILITARY SCHOOL Diploma to all colleges: Small classes, expert faculty. Also Business C cures. flow $250 50,000 pa orest Ctr ment. T.C. Under U. S. A Col. im le wae Box R, ptenmeninet Va.

California— ~ PM

MILITARY Pp A G ACADEMY A big school for little boys. Page stands in a class by itself as eenllitary school for little boys. Sound training in theessential bran swith military training adapted to young boy needs. Parents appreciate the atmosphere of understanding and encouragement. Larg- est of its kind in America. Write for the catalog. Robert A. Gibbs, Headmaster, 1221 Cochran Ave., Los Angeles, Cal.

SAN DIEGO ARMY AND NAVY ACADEMY “The Coming West Point of the West” Accredited by leading universities, West Point and Annapolis. Christian Influences. Land and water sports all year. Catalogue. J ress Col. Thos. A. Davis, Bor H, Pacific Beach Sta., San Diego, Cat.

: Paris—Girls | Paris—Girls ; Western—Boys e , son tNNsNi yHNLAANAIEED - 5 ST. HUBERT’S SCHOOL ||| VILLA AMBOISE ULVER> ACADEMY (Miss Jamieson’s School) A Residential School in Paris for Young Women (On Lake Maxinkuckee) Founded upon the highest traditions of MUSIC. ine Apr APPLIED ARTS. Hoe ane ——- education in a A. aA TIC ART. DANCIN a ey . a Sotewe, Smal = er ted _~" oroughly French atmosphere. EC URES AT THE SORBONNE. College frepacstory. finishing and otuet DOMESTIC SCIENCE. courses, raveling during vacations isits lo tunities fi ; y > to museums and places of historic interest. prccinting hicemisicand calereliicortore. | | 4 CLEAN IN A SOUND Out of door sports. Resident and day stu- French is the language of the school. All sub- MIND BODY dents. French is the language of the school. jects elective. Traveling during vacations. Highest standards of scholarship and character In July, 1928, the school will move to a Riding, golf and tennis. Pupils may enter with wholesome outdoor recreation. Military. larger estate. For booklet address eliananen 4 Bhscaettcotptceten Rey. C. H. Young, 8.T.D., Rector. For catalog, Seciial Cotte ” y address The Superintendent, Howe, Indiana. MISS IRENE JAMIESON “*St*Oxforae Summer school from July Ist to October Ist. 6, Avenue de Villars, Paris (7c), + eel For booklet address MISS IRENE JAMIESON 6, Avenue de Villars, Paris (7e), France M 3 A M I Military Institute Germantown, Ohio eet Peers RRS TR —mmmng | Ya the Miam{ River valley, 14 miles trom Dayton. F A school of high standar ollege preparator: School for girls from 8 to 20 eve. Versailles Girls a | “al: one dang meee eeeing. 40°55 ry ff Preparation for French examinations at mei amonee. Catalog: ee ee the Sorbonne and Victor Duruy College. Brown, Pres., Box 270 Suitomonite —— tennis, riding. usic, diction, dancing ~ S57 RUE de BABYLONE PARIS L’ERMITAG Rilies.. — isis Offers all advantages of Paris with country life. El Coronado School for Boys ated La Selia hence - . % At Far Away Ranch Daichted i I Heme Finishing 15 rue de l’Ermitage. Versailles, France A mountain ranch school giving College Prepara- & & American representative ards of Scholarship. Individual care, tioncourses, horsemanship. Enrollment limited. pupils chaperoned. Holid ay trips. R. E. SOUERS, Headmaster, Douglas, Arizona. In Passy quarter. Apply to: de LE 3,RUELYAUTEY spen Ranch Schoo % ‘ " Bove water } ql ‘Fue months of wonderful outdoor ife in the Wes' ooklet. PRor. ETON, | | . | I | J R R | Miss Barry s Foreign School M. A,, Director, Box 1107, Santa Fé, New Me xico. FLORENCE ° ITALY sare. pores Lie's Finishing Schoo) tor Gis, 39 For Girls , . ue du Chateau venue Victor Hugo, ni home and school life. Each ‘ ; Boulogne s/Seine—Paris. pura “ pregram of study and recreation = Ht. Johus Military Meademy ~ £3 y ag goo —_ The American Rugby. Eminently fitted for Fencing, Horseback Riding. ips to Rome. training American boys. Thorough scholastic and Perugia, Venice. Lower School for younger military instruction. Situated on high ground in girls. School year October to June. The Waukesha County Lake Region. Catalog. Box . Assistant Director, Box 142, Cambridge, Mass 30K, Delafield, Wis. Paris—Boys

Day and boarding. For American children The Elms for boys. Junior school for girls. Kindergarten to college. miles from Paris, outdoor, sports, intensive French. 7 Avenue Eugénie, Saint Cloud, France

Preparing boys for College. DE BURE Non - sectarian; eci ific par-Villennes i na European culture Seine al oe se modern methods; American an Foreign paesters. Beautiful thirty acres. All aan "nie farm. Addre: Chateau de Bures, Box 675, ian, Mass., U.S. A,

Travel

MISS LILIAS S. BILL announces her fifth consecutive sea- son of travel for young women. Party sails in October and visits Spain, Egypt, Holy Land, Italy, France, Switzerland and England. Address Miss Lilias S. Bill W8L.A5°4"

DEANE SCHOOL SANTA BARBARA, CAL. Located on a beautiful !wooded estate in Monte- cito, offers distinct advantages for a thorough development of boys in mind, body and spirit under able and experienced masters. Hewitt Reynolds, M.A., Headmaster.

HARVARD SCHOOL LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA OUNDED 1900 A boarding on oe school for boys. accredited. Grades 6-12, inclusive. R. O. For all information, addr ROBERT B. GOODEN, “SD. Headmaster. Full 7.¢.

California—Girls

FRENCH SCHOOL nta Barbara, California Beautifal Mission Canyon overlooking Pacific Ocean Limit to 20 girls who will reccive a French Cultural education. Address Mission Canyon, Santa Barbara. Special Schools E eve 07 eM eaceertetctrentea eae cae te 7

Suni Ts

usual school. country estates near Philadelphia.

skilled observation and scientific treatment. What Can I Do with This Unusual Child? The boy or girl may be slightly retarded in school work, but otherwise normal—lacking in power to concentrate—a little difficult temperamentally, though in many ways bright—too easily disturbed—too shy—too egotistical— too fun loving—too serious—or in other ways not in his right element in the Parents of such a child will find at the Devereux Schools Modern facilities, expert faculty, and large Craft Guilds in Printing, Photography Making, Rug Work, Tea-Room, and Gift Shops supplement academic work. Three Separate Schools for Boys, Girls and Young Children. For catalogue address DEVEREUX SCHOOLS HELENA T. DEVEREUX, Box 10-B, BERWYN, Furniture PENNSYLVANIA

Girls Collegiate School Glendora Foothills, California Country School of 50 credited]7th grade to College. Post-GraduateCourses two years. le horses, all sports, 36th year. Miss Parsons ond Miss Dennen, Principals.

THE ANNA HEAD SCHOOL 8 Boarding and day schoo! for girls. puudents pone S for college board examinations. moteraduate, Primary and Intermediate Depart- _ its. Miss Mary E. WILSON, Principal, Box H, tkeley, California. E'STLAKE &<iris Junior College and Accredited College Prepa- ration. Special courses in Art, Music, Expression, nd New 34 So, Westmoreland Ave., Los / Angeles, California

acres near Los Angeles. Ac- |

NCROFEFT SCHOOL FOR RETARDED CHILDREN Established 1883 © For children from five to sixteen requiring individual instruction. Highly trained staff, including resident Physician and Nurse. q Modern equipment. Home environment | with ample opportunity for outdoor activ- ities. q Summer camp on Maine coast affords complete change of climate for four months under same staff. Catalogue on Request DIRECTORS E. A. Farrington, M. D., and Jenzia C. Cooley Box 165 Haddonfield New Jersey

IS YOUR BOY OUT OF STEP? A few years at our school may be all that he r return to his normal place in life. the advantages of a fine boarding school, » yne specialized education. 41 mtles from New York City tn the beautiful hills of Westchester County. All sports, Manual Training, Horseback Rid- ing. Write for information. RUDOLPH S., FRIED, Principal Box A, Katonah, N. Y. uires to

THE WOODS’ SCHOOL For Exeeptional Obildren Three Separate Schools LITTLE FOLKS to Septem Camp with ti fatty ger J Jam uto 7 x 152, h- --~4 Ba.

Mrs. Mollie wants Hare, Principal ~°

for nervous or R O S E H I L retarded children Individual teaching and training under child special- ist (M.D.). Experienced staff. Beautiful, secluded country estate near Philadelphia; 15 acres of sunny slopes. Own_vegetables, eggs, etc. Moderate rates. Mrs. Anne M. Pope, BoxB, Chester Heights, Pa.

PERKINS SSi9ek For Children wh on pe special training and educa- tion. Unsurp: a onntp pment on sixty-acre es- tate. Intimate ho home life. Experienced Staff Med- ical direction. Franklin H. Perkins, M.D., Box 63, Lancaster, Mass.

LAKE FOREST Non-Military. College Preparatory Academy for boys. Near Chicago. All Athletics. Endowed. Cata- log: J. W. Richards, Box 161, Lake Forest, Ill.

The VALLEY RANCH SCHOOL Y*"sy, Szpmine Thorough Eastern Prepepatory School training combined with supervised ae Ranch outdoor life. Christian. te Ranch Eastern Office, dregs: Valle LAZY JD St., New ¥ los Alamos Ranch School | Historic interest. Saddle horse for eve ful climate—perfect table—thorough ery coy. Most under a thusiastic, competent masters. Address,A.J.Connell, Dir., Los Alamos Ranch School, Box H, Otowl, New Mexico. NORTHWESTERN pe miles from Chicago. An endowed College‘ Preparato! School and Junior College. Its distinctive advantages and methods interest dis- criminating parents. CoL. R. P. DAVIDSON, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wis.

Outdoor Life

MILITARY AND NAVAL ACADEMY

un nnn a } | Western—Girls

uma Academic, college preperatosy and advanced courses for big school graduates. Fully ac- credited. Cooperative with the University of Chicago. _Com- plete Conservatory of Music. Art. Home Economics, Dra- Art. Secretarial Courses. Starret School for Girls CHICAGO Horseback rid payer g. Fireproof buildings with Dov Students ample grounds. 44th year. Fall term began September 21. Mr. and Mrs. Gerard T. Smith, Princi alog and Book of Views dress Drexel Boul., Chicago. A distinguished col- Ferry Hal lege preparatory es for girls in 12 ed acres extend- ing to Lake Michigan, atte i to Chicago. Ad- vanced courses for High School graduates. Sports. Gymnasium, pool. 59th year. Catalog OISE R. TREMAIN, Prin., Box 335, Lake Forest, Ill. als. For cat- x 21, 4515

Standard col- indenwood College ice suite women and four year courses. Accredited. oh Advantages. 50 minutes from St. Louis. 100t anniversary year. Eve! facility. Catalog. L. Roemer, Pres., St. Charles, Mo. modern x 527,

MONTICELLO SEMINARY 30 miles from St. Louis; 300 acres. 91st year. High School; Junior College; pedal Subjects. New $100,000 Music and Art ilding. All outdoor sports. Address HARRIET RICE CONGDON, Godfrey, Hlinois

FALL REGISTRATIONS ARE STILL BEING ACCEPTED For Information Write to HARPER’S BAZAR SCHOOL DEPARTMENT 119 West 40th Street New York City

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56 Future Happiness Depends on a Good School Selection canara NO cilia i renee | Ls MIS). CONKLIN ) SECRETARIAL SCHOOL TPHOROUGH professional training for secretaryships and executive po- sitions The school occupies the studios of the Tilden Building; classrooms open- ing upon a roof garden have abun- dance of light and air. The Bureau of Placement is a recog- nized feature of the School. Graduates are sought for varied and responsible positions. Successive entrance dates, Jilustrated booklet ) 105 West 40th Street, New York q Telephone, Penna. 3758 Ne aa wa) [Gjrited States Secretarial School 627 Fifth Avenue, New York City Secretarial & Business Training. Ask for C atalog B Irving Edgar Chase, Director. Vanderbilt 2474 Register Now For SCHOOL Samant couse 610 Lex. Ave. at 53rd St. Central Branch Y. W.C. A. KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL SECRETARIAL and Executive Training for Educated Women. Resident School in Boston. Boston New York IDER £ Providence ogee of B. C. «& ccts. IN 2 YEARS ial credit hours to 4 year course.Shorter diplo- ma courses 63rd term. Positions for uates. For catalog write Rider College Trenton, N SHORT STORY WRITING olleg me: A practical forty-lesson course in the writ- ing and marketing of the Short-Story taught by Dr. J. Berg Esenwein, Editor of The Writer's Monthly. 150 page catalog free. Please address The Home Correspondence School Dr. Essnwein Nene. 19 Springfield, Mass. for Physical The Sargent Schoo Education Founded 1881 by Dr. A. Sargent s00klet on re tF st. L. W. SARGENT, Director, Cambridge, Mass, ’ mT Opportunity TRAINED NURSE $15 monthly allowance, Ideal living conditions. Tennis, surf bathing. 3 hours from New Y« 8-hour day. 2'. year course. Age 18 to 32; 2 years high school. Send for descriptive folder and application SOUTHAMPTON HOSPITAL ASSOCIA- TION, Southampton, Long Island. “Only College of Auction Bridge” Expert personal instruction, for individuals or classes, beginners, advanced players, or teachers. Special lessons on any desired features. Course by mail. Visitors always welcome. Under direction of E. V. Shepard. SHEPARD’S STUDIO, Inc. Box B Telephone Circle 10041 20 West 54th Street New York, N. Y Kindergarten Training KINDERGARTEN & PRIMARY TRAINING.2 33rd Year. Accredited. High School raduates admitted. 2 and 3 year diplomas. Sent 12 Athletics. Fall erm opens s Registrar for Illustrated Bulletin CHICAGO TEACHERS COLLEGE—710 Rush St., Chicago Harriette Melissa Mills Kindergarten -Primary, Training School Affiliated with New York University Two and three-year courses towards college degrees Enrollments Sept. and Feb. Exceptional residence facilities. Address: Miss Harriette Melissa Millis, Principal, Five B, 66 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. serene. Social Training a skal . . Charm, Poise and Personality Self-consciousness overcome. Smart social pro- cedure and conversation taught oy | anc by mail. Distinctive personality and charm deve moe Mile. Louise, Park Central, 56th and 7th Ave., N.Y. Circle 8000, Professional MERICAN ACADEMY OF DRAMATIC ARTS | Founded 1884 by Franklin H. Sargent The foremost institution for Dramatic and xpr 1 Tr e instruction of the Academy furnishes the essential preparation for Directing and Teaching as well as for Acting. The training is educative and practical, de- veloping Poise, Personality and Expressional Power, of value to those in professional life and to the layman. New Fall Term begins Oct. 26th Extension Dramatic Courses in co-operation with COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY Free Catalog describing all Courses from Room 175-J,. CARNEGIE HALL, New York PUUUTUT UCU UT UUGtETT TT OPERA DRAMA MUSIC COLLEGE of DANCE ARTS SINGING and PHOTO-PLAY For Acting, Teaching, Directing. Developing personality and poise, es- sential for any vocation in life. Alviene a t Theatre and Student Stock C DIRECTORS: Harvey fford appearances while a J. J. Shubert N. Y. debuts and careers eae porenertte | c ‘lark write ewer wanted to Secre Rose Cog West 85th St.,N.Y., ask forcatalon 20° John Murray Anderson-Robert Milton School of the Theatre and Dance Instruction in all Branches of Dramatic Art. Dramatics, Daneing, Musical Comedy, Pantomime, Scenic and Cos- tume Design, Playwriting. Motion Picture Acting. Commercial Screen Tests Made, ENROLL NOW FOR FALL TERM 128-130 east S8TH STREET (Plaza, 4524 New York N.Y. SCHOOL OF FINE & APPLIED ART NEWYORK PARIS Italy _ England TE only international professional 7 . school of Interior and I tion, Graphic Ad- sorter and illustration, Theatre ‘and ostume Design, Training Teachers, Research, other subjects. Frank Alvah Parsons, Wm. M. Odom, Georges Lepape, Pierre Brissaud, Howard Giles, Zereida Rains, Grace Fuller and 70 other specialists. rT) SEND FOR CIRCULARS Begins Sept. 2nd. in N. Y. Research—lItaly &England. 2239 B’way, N. Y. City or 9 Place des Vosges, Paris ee SCHOOL OF ART A new school developing individual talent under the instruction of successful artists. Courses in Painting,: Drawing, Sculpture, Commercial and Applied Arts, and Interior Decoration. Credits given under Regents, University of the State of New York, Catalogue on Request Room 7001, Grand Central Terminal, New York City THE NEW YORK SCHOOL of Design Illustration Painting 145-147 B East 57thSt.,N.Y. NEW ENGLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN 248 Boylston St. ton Courses in Drawing, Painting, Sculpture, Illustration, Com- mercial Art, Costume Design, Fashion Illustration, ete. Day and Evening. Beginners and Advanced students. Douglas John Connah, Director Edith Coburn Noyes School Oral English, Drama, Character Education. Analysis and Interpretation of Literature, Voice Diction, Psychology, French. Fully Equipped Little Theater. 19th year. EpITH C ono RN NOYES, Principal cgay Chambers, Boston, Mas School of the Theatre Students play five times weekly for six months bee fore graduation. Dancing, fe ering, voice develope ment, Shakespere, playwriting, Clare Tree Major, a Park Central Hotel, 56th Street & Seventh Ave., N.Y.C. D MR. AND MISS A URYE as CLASSES AND DANCES uesdays and Thessteye tuition in Fox Trot and Waltz, 7.30 ; Tango 8.30 hy M. Lessons $1 each, gener a ‘denen 9.30 to “Oppy” orchestra. Send self-addressed Gaaaiegs for free description of Tango steps. Ballroom, Hotel des Artistes, 1 West 67th St. Susquehanna 8440. Every type of dancing taught For Stage or Social Affairs Classes or private lessons for adults or children, beginners, advanced pupils or professionals. Special private figure con- ditioning classes for Ladies Write or call for Booklet 1841 Broadway fe ntrance on 60th St.) Studio S. M. (at Columbus Circle), New York City (Phone Columbus 3500). ARTHUR MURRAY America’s finest teachers of ball room dancing. Beginners specialists. Reduced rates now. 7 East 43d St. Vanderbilt 1773 MISS ILA D. KNOWLES School of Dancing BALLR ROOM—CLASSIC Classes for Ladies and Children. Private lessons by appointment. Write for Folder H. STEINWAY HALL, 113 W. 57 St., CIRcle 5493 Interior Decorating | LEARN AT HOME Practical, easy. Beautify your home \\i \ —or become high-paid decorator. Prominent New York Decorators give pereonal instruction by mail, Free 300k describes wonderful opportuni- ties. Write to-day. National School of Interior Decoration, Dept. 2810, 119 W. 57th St., New York City. The NEW YORK SCHOOL of INTERIOR DECORATION 578 MADISON AVE‘NEW YORK PRACTICAL TRAINING COURSE Fall term starts October 3rd Sena for catalog 4-R HOME STUDY COURSES) Start any time—Catalog 4-C i NEW YORK SCHOOL OF APPLIED DESIGN FOR WOMEN 160 Lexington Ave., N. Y. City 36th Year Textile and Wall Paper Designing, Fashion Drawing, Poster and Commercial Art, Interior Decoration, Advanced Design. Teachers’ Course. Preparatory Courses. ositions and orders filled. MASTER INSTITUTE OF UNITED ARTS MUSIC.--PAINTING---SCULPTURE ARCHITECTURE —-- OPERA CLASS LET --- I --- LECTURES New term begins ouaelar Ist 310 RIVERSIDE DRIVE (Cor.103d St.), N.Y. Academy 3860 SCHOOL OF DESIGN AND LIBERAL ARTS 212 West 59th St., N. Y. C., Box H LIFE: DRAWING: PAINTING: FASHION ILLUSTRATION: INTERIOR DECORATION. Individual Criticism Daily Scr tke MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS of the 52nd year. BOSTON, MASS. Drawing, Painting, Modeling, Design, under master teachers. Scholarships at home and abroad, Illustrated booklet. VESPER GEORGE Thorough Foundation” ‘4 a yw i ee, +g Art, Individual In- pe by Specialists. Entire new building. a Positions. 20 years successful teaching 44 St. Botoiph St., Boston, Mass. ey SCOTT CARBEE SCHOOL OF ART Personal Daily Instruction Commercial, Fashion, Costume Design Figure-Drawing, Painting, Iilustration. ‘atalog on request 126 Massachusetts Ave., Boston, Mass. a NATIONAL SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Felix Mahony, P: Interior Decoration, Color, Costume, Commercial Poster, Design, Dynamic Symmetry, Life. Sketch Class, "Dormitory. Catalog. Connecticut Ave. and M, Washington, D. C. Metropolitan Art School Mitchel Jacobs, Director, 58 W. 57th St., N. Y, Author of “The Art of Color” and “The Study of Color’ LIFE PORTRAIT POSTER COSTUME DESIGN INTERIOR DEC ‘ORATION. STUDY ART at home or in our New York Studio under Franklin pom. Frank Schoonover, Gayle nw a &, B. Phoenix ond other noted Design. Send for Bulletin H-B. veg PHOENIX ART morerers. Inc, 50 Madison Ave., New Y: Designin BLEEKS fii SCHOOL Dressmaking, Patterncutting. Operating and Sketching. Wholesale, Retail and Home courses. Hand Painting on Material taught. Individual Instruction. Day and Evening. Positions. Booklet H upon request. 261 West 125th St., N. Y¥. C. —S utara: nti inetncitemeisi i TO on Nieialene COSTUME DESIGN FOR TRADE, SCREEN AND STAGE In Costume Design, as with any other subject, the selection of the most suc- cessful school is of vital importance to your success. Fashion Academy is the largest school of its kind in the United States. —a national institution devoted ex- clusively to teaching Costume and Milli- nery Design and Fashion Illustration. the school whose graduates number among the highest-salaried professional designers in the country. which is endorsed by every fashion publication in this important country. FASHION ACADEMY INVITES YOU TO ITS NEW STUDIOS Located in the heart of the fashion center—a few doors off Fifth Avenue—truly, the best equipped fashion studios for cultured young women. Limited enrollment — so call or write for information early. Direction of Emil Alvin Hartman America’s foremost instructor of fashion art FASHION ACADEMY New York Paris 16 East 52nd Street—off Fifth Avenue New York City Traphagen School of Fashion intensive Eight Months Winter Course Under direction of Ethel Traphagen All phases from elementary to full mastery of costume design and illustration taught in shortest time compatible with thoroughness. Day or evening. pe ee has materially added to the strength of school. f ment disposes of stu adults’ and children’s classes. Send for catalog H. 1680 Broadway (near 52nd St.) New York MORE INDIVIDUAL IN ITS INSTRUCTION MORE FRUITFUL ITS RESULTS be, ERTAINL CERTAINLY. Fa CERTAINLY- WELL PAID ALUMN 7%) CHICAGO ACADEMY, aN Qo FINE ARTS % JAN} VOGUE SCHOOL DRESS DESIGN FASHION ILLUSTRATION Dept. H-V 116 S. Michigan Bivd., Chicago DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking, Draping, Pattern Cutting. Instruc tion in Trade Methods for Wholesale and Retail. Also for personal use. Da and. Evening Classes Call or write now for particulars McDowell Dressmaking and Millinery School 71 West 45th St., New York. Estab. 1876. No Branches A SPECIAL INVITATION It is our privilege to know intimately the schools advertised in our pages. Asa special service to you, we offer our help and advice in making co wisest selection. Tell us the particular needs © your son or daughter and we will direct you to the proper school. Write Harper's Bazar Schoo De en ent, 119 West 4oth Street, New Yor Ci itv creat

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as Transformations created by Parme represent the best in style, fit and quality. puis Sr 18 W. 57th St., New York J nary | Never did wy foot Leo mort Slendth thaw w NtW Nawrow- Shank Shorcr shippurs! Dhegne that smant Qutumww com bimatrew Ikack Potent Reathen with toast-clmed asthalac - $22.50.Qmd Shot craft had hostiry te pt SHOECRAF 714 FIFTH_AVENUE Fitting the Sizes 1tolO Marrow Heel AAAA oD STYLE FORECAST HF ON REQUEST a as quaint as any abroad Harper’s Bazar Shops Department offers its readers a personal contact with the fine shops of New York. A personal visit is made by an experienced observer to all shops advertised on this page and any information you desire will be given gladly. NEW YORK SHOPS It really isn’t necessary to search the bazaars of the Orient or the shadowed side streets of the Continent to discover the unusual or the individual. noon’s ramble through the proper districts in New York will disclose numbers of fascinating shops quite and certainly as dependable. Any after- 6 West 57th Street, New York A step from Difth Avenue MOVING TO OUR NEW HOME 20 West 57th Street WHERE THE SPIRIT OF SMART FEMININITY WILL FIND UNUSUAL EXPRESSION IN BRUCK-WEISS CREA- TIONS IN A MUCH LARGER AND MORE BEAUTIFUL SETTING Q 4 where he will continue to create his amazingly natural Transformations but will also do Permanent Waving Finger Waving Shampooing introducing, in rooms dedicated to the lovely ladies of history, an individuality of service such as was accorded them in their own salons. Phone Plaza 1362 for an appointment. chanqis Ms addniss Zganky w Oc¥obvn +o 29 weet 51% of Hair Cutting Facial Treatments Tray ormation worn § ’ ASlairve ’ dele ee & The RENNA Method of scientific FACE LIFTING by bloodless surgerv. No Cutting. No Peeling. Muscle Replacing. By Appointment Only or Write for Booklet -Q) é “RENNA” Health Cosmetics Most scientific and pure cleansing cream (large jar $1.50 Tissue (might) cream............... 1.50 Developing Cerate. . aie be IIE iio o565. 6 0 dcceceinsense 3.00 EE ittnckchisisd ponncledscdion 2.00 Astringent (vegetal) ................ 1.50 Astringent (triple strength)......... 3.00 Muscle & Tissue Oil Write for Booklet MME. RENNA 110 West 55th St., New York City Circle 7127 Erase Time's Traces - 10 to 20 years ; taken from your appeararice in 10 to 14 days ~~ Face lifting without surgery by Madame Mays’ scientific treat- ment. Removes wrinkles, freckles, lines, blemishes. Gives skin a youth- _ . ful freshness. Makes one look many years younger. Clients outside of New York have all comforts of a~ - private home. « pe Complete details and booklet on request MADAME MAYS 50 West 49th Street New York | LYNNE ARLEY Beauty Products sold | —— hildren’s Clothes — To INDIVIDUAL ORDER Only That Smart Style Touch that you have always longed forin your children’s frocks, the real- ly suitable ma- terials and exquisite nee- dling you al- ways value will be found in all thethingsI plan and make to in- dividual order, as you will in- stantly agree on seeing these advance FALL MODES. This dainty model is of English broadcloth with white trimmings hand embroidered in contrasting dots. The scallops are edged with the tiniest lace—in any desired color. The other smart frock is made of plain and checked gingham with checked bloomers to match—any color you desire. Either model to 6 years—$7.75—to 10 years $8.95, as a special feature, including the bloomers. I SPECIALIZE Modes for Infants, Children and Misses—Suits for Boys to 4. Call if you can—or send for original sketches, giving children’s ages, to assist in replying. Mail orders always receive my personal care. Inviting Inquiries from Specialty Shops. Also Special Representatives. \ Hf) us. | 267 West 11th Street | ADELE*AXIMILIAN **In the Heart of Greenwich Village’’ New York a ynyy Zo Tey LL * Beauty hints of Angela Varona “a No. 4 Varona As- For Oily | ttingent used Skin daily tightens the pores, thus preventing excessive oiliness. 4 ‘$2 $4 $7.50 $13 Sizes Varona toilet Preparations on sale at Bonwit Teller & Co., Franklin Simon & Co., Lord & Taylor, Stern Bros., and John Wanamaker’s. If you cannot purchase them at your favorite shop, order direct from Booklet on request. ANGELA VARONA 22 East 55th St., New York Appointments: Plaza 8822, 4056 ~ MANUEL — TRANSFORMATIONS — es 2 ties : ANUEL’S Transformations and Moderne Wigs are the exact reproduction of nature. For quality, simplicity of design and best workmanship they have no equal. Booklet upon request. NEW-YORK PARIS Z9EAST48TH.ST 2ORUE DE LA PAIX “HAIR GOODS EXCLUSIVELY’

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58 HARPER’S BAZAR —~ = Wrere todhon in Pari. Perfection of Line and Graceful Shape Denote a Bernard Model Pub. Wallace - — for — LO lf,

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A ia for OCTOBER 1927 LOUISEBOULANGER CHAMPSELYSEES SRUE DE BERRI DRESSES FURS MANTLES LINGERIE Uerandine De Luxe Cloves and Hosiery Paris 10 rue Auber Opéra ) Cannes Biarritz 14, Bd de la Croisette 10, rue Mazagran WHERE TO SHOP IN - — / 4 ms mM Prapreere er ert L EST fort curieux d’opposer aux descriptions des souples robes modernes, celles des toilettes de jadis, dont la principale utilite semblait étre de géner les femmes et de les empécher de se mouvoir commodément. Un historien nous dépeint ainsi le costume de Catherine de Médicis: “son vétement se compose d’un bonnet encadrant la figure, avec une pointe aigiie sur le front, et recouvert derriére par un long voile tom- bant sur le dos. Elle porte une fraise 4 gros tuyaux, une basquine trés ajustée & la taille, sous laquelle on devine le corps piqué au corset, une large jupe plissée, soutenue par un vertugadin. Une longue cape, que rehausse un collet montant godronné, est soutenue par des baleines ou des fils d’archal. Le corps pique était maintenu par un busc, lequel designait une lame de buis, d’ivoire, de laiton ou d’argent qui s’adaptait sur le devant pour donner du maintien. Ce busc était souvent apparent sur la robe et dans ce cas, richement re- Alki. Saaunriir ~ couvert.”’ 59 sports ensembles tailored suits travelling coats evening wraps the finest furs 19, Avenue Matignon, 19 CHAMPS-ELYSEES IREDFERN COUTURIER SOCIETE FRANCAISE RLOBES MANTEAUX FOURRURES LINGERIE AMAZONES MODES 242, RUE de RIVOLI PARIS Deauville Nice Paris Plage VETEMENTS DE SPORT PYJAMAS DE LUXE 7 yoo aa 82 RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS (PLACE VENDOME) PARIS-BIARRITZ clair soeurs couture 100,fg saint-honore, paris tél. élysées : 12.24 COUTURE 9,Rue des Capucines First floor Germaine Guerin The Smartest Hand Bags & Tortoise Shell & Dressing Cases 243, Rue Saint-Honoré Place Vendéme PARIS

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x ~ ' ARPER’S BAZAK Pub. Wallace. Paris bi cacachiaad IT inh “- on «@ ~ 7 — a L J eanne Lanv Paris — ~ we _ — —— ee ree we a | | | | | | ‘ — —EE : . - St a Ti ee Se a ST Pe

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OCTOBER (927 Wr ter SLOP? tre Yerred 7 rue de la Paix PARIS London =z Hanover Square I id an so 221,Regent Street,corner of Maddox ceo Cannes Croisette mB Pub. Wallace Paris

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HARPER’S BAZAR SSS Whore to shop ir Paresr om 6 oi), Sh eee earteed @ URS ~ teat se . a ant oe tet % ‘27 eee ar 7 ~ as - Pe at Lx ins = - a ee ham, o one oe cae ve ae Oe is fe pay xe 4. ~ i a oa . + d ia ~ Pyrat roa 7 ee AS ~ ee . j Se = } - ; y 4 io 4 ie \is a, my ; — ‘Je Aah NE PRES 4 3 | Be aah, “LEI PARIS 9,FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORE COUTURE.FURS_MODE LINGERIE — va la Ps ne ¥ F — Sone ener ey are NT ALD OO ITS Lb. Wollace foris fo: Ir

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for OCTOBER "

Where te Shope tn Paridy

i} —-4 SS — —— _——-, —<_= = ——4 eed = ‘ , Wie

JANE REGNY COUTURE SPORT 11,RUE LA BOETIE PARIS. BIARRITZ - 2 RUE GAMBETTA

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fo HARPER’S BAZAR A SSS a : = ‘ ere A _PLACE VENDOME-PARIS & REPTILE SKIN HAS THE VOGUE ALPINA’ Pub. Wallace - Peris’-

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HARPER’S BAZAR = a Se Where to SLR OL LLL TT — | | | MB Pub Wallace - Paria

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$$ or GOGCTOBER 1927 67 —_——nnn W020 to chofe tr DAAC L , aaa ae ‘HIENRI VERGNE COATS-~WRAPS - FURS. ; i 3 18. RUE ROYALE, 3,RUE DU 29 JUILLET. PARIS ‘ALPINA’ ‘REPTILE SKIN iy bce oy ve, , 5, ne o 4 - y 7 ‘ y io 4 4 2 om Yipee pre Th lh te atl dof (Po es ee LP SLI a | HAS THE VOGUE

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| IO.PLACE VENDOME. | IZ, RUE DE LA PAIX HARPER’S BAZARB f?? ——E BRIALIX If NOW /HOWING HER FIRST WINTER COLLECTION in her salony 104 CHAMDS -ELYSEES RR RRR RE

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OCTOBER 1927 for For Gowns of color ~ Chantal Whether it symbolizes modest dignity, simple snu~ gness, or petulance and charm, a Chantal gown ‘is strangely companionable. For Chantal, alone among Paris dress-makers, selects color that accords with human feeling as a medium for her design. Chantal gowns renowned for their precision of cut. convey more than technical perfection. A bright spot in Paris COUTURE is this establishment where the artist designer catches the breath of her inspiration in color. From the October splendor of nature Chantal has borrowed the startling tones which distinguish her unusually rich winter collection. CHANTAL 65-67 AVE pes CHAMPS-ELYSLES *PARES

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HARPER’S BAZAR HAUTE COUTURE Ste An'Z* Francaise P. 11,Rue de Penthieévre. AMY LINKER BALLARD & CO. 7 Rue Auber PARIS GOWNS COATS CHIC AND DIE- FERENT PAUL CARET ~> . 2) 222 RUE DE RIVOLI PARIS ¢ “is NIELS, aN BRIGGéSONS WALKING STICKS UMBRELLAS 33 Avenue de l’Opéra PARIS 23 St. James’s Street LONDON 10 AVENUE VICTOR EMMANUEL III (HAMPS ELYSEES, PARIS HEI FORERUNNER OF MODERN STYLE SPECIALISING INCUATS FURSACOATS. 48,RUE LAFFITTE- PARIS 2,RUE GAMBETTA:BIARRITZ — AGNES 6 RUE S‘* FLORENTIN PARIS EUGENIE & JULIETTE HAUTE COUTURE 20 Rue des Capucines PARIS Be sure before you leave to take note of this address MALBOROUGH 59 RUE SAINT LAZARE Models a Specialty from the latest collections of Parisian couturiers bear- ing authentic signatures. Immediate delivery. WELLY SOEURS MODES COUTURE LINGERIE 21 Faubourg St. Honore, 21 31, Rue Cambon, PARIS Faultless alterations. PARIS 7 Ad *rlising Repr (nial #, r DUCERF-SCAVINI Harper’s Bazar in BOOTMAKER FRANCE WaLtLtace & DRAEGER 11 bis rue d’ Aquesseau PARIS LENIE Ss. A. couture 374 ; Rue S8tHonore Paris

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ARE for OCTOBER 1927 —— Whether a lady wishes a coat of classic lines and beauty unadorned — or one that embodies the superb and insolent distinction of the mode’s latest whim for long collar, huge cufis and flaring hem—she will find it among the es 7 a ‘ - individual creations presented by Revillon Freres ... To this house come the world’s best furs. the world’s clewerest cutters and the smart- est women of the three world-capitals — Paris, London and New York. . Ofexil lon y FIFTH AVENUE at 537d.Street NEW YORK.

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your face and | your fortune ES “¢ ¢ , >. Before frock, figure or manner, a woman is judged by “a pretty girl,” “a distinguished-looking woman,” “smart,” or “beautiful” is said, according to the her face eee impression given by a face—and its all-important make-up. And one really can’t afford (for fortune’s sake) to use powder of a lesser quality than the finest — Houbigant Face Powder. For 150 perfumed years, Houbigant has created the finest powders in all the world, and none is quite so delightfully fragrant, velvety-soft, and last- ingly adherent. The exquisite odeurs are Subtilité, Quelques Fleurs, Le Parfum Ideal, Mon Boudoir, and Le Temps des Lilas. Its true tones are naturelle, rachel, rosée, ocre rosée, ocre, and blanche—$1.50. The same powder, but in compact form, with rouge, is in the new double compact designed by a Parisian jew- eler. The compact is six-sided — unusually good-looking —thin, and light in weight —$z.50. We would like to send you five sachets perfumed with the five odeurs mentioned above, and the booklet, 5 Things Perfumes Whisper.”’ Please write for them. Houbigant, Inc., Dept. 54, 539 West 45th Street, New York HOUBIGANT PARIS

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. p> HARPER 5 Number 2580 61st Year a. C he oe oo =—s OCTOBER 1927 CONTENTS COVER Robes Nouvelles By Ert&E RICHARD LE GALLIENNE 120, 121 The Mender of Broken Hearts, A Graceful Story by a Well-known F hes Poet aSNLONS Illustrated by WALLACE MorGAN WHAT IS NEW IN PARIS 76 to 101 JESSE LYNCH WILLIAMS wait Reports on the Fall Collections in Paris by BARON DE MEYER and MARJORIE HOWARD Photographs by BARON DE MEYER Drawings by Dynevor Ruys, Mary MAcKINNON, REYNALDO LuUzA and BERNARD BouTET DE MONVEL English Fortune-H unter Illustrated by W. EmMERTON HeITLAND Society and Special Articles an ee oe ee eee 102 10 197 RICHES, An Editorial by CHARLES HANSON TOWNE LuciLe BuCHANAN Writes about Black Clothes and thei ir Accessories snake ; atic a a oii Drawings by GRAacE Hart and MALAGA GRENET MRS. WOLCOTT BLAIR Drawn especially for Harper's Bazar by MAry MACKINNON SMART SHOES FOR SMART OCCASIONS y 124, 125 Drawings by DyNEvor Ruys ; . : Described by Mary Cass CANFIELD The Noble Lord, The Second Part of the Satiric Story about an 123 ~I uw COLONEL H. H. ROGERS’ HOUSE AT SOUTHAMPTON. .112 to 115 LAST-MINUTE SKETCHES FROM PARIS 126, 127 Photographs by Surnan, Scur. MISS GENEVIEVE CARPENTER 118 Fiction Portrait by BARON DE MEYER GOUVERNEUR MORRIS ; 109 }©6. DEBTS AND DEBUTANTES 119 Many Mansions, A Gipsy Nocturne of {Old California Some Frank Statements by a Social Secretary Drawing by JoHN R. FLANAGAN Decoration by KATHARINE STURGES HUDSON STRODE axp LARRY HORNTHAL t10,111 POEMS by CHARLOTTE BECKER anp KATHLEEN MILLAY, 1 38 The Dance Below, A One-Act Play FRANK SWINNERTON 128 Illustration by SAMUEL Davis OTIs Londoners Remain Londoners, Gossip of the Month in London LOUIS BROMFIELD 116, 117 W oodcut by Fiske Boyp The Cat That Lived at the Ritz, A Story of the Posie Boulevards A NEW DIVERSION FOR SOCIETY 196 Illustrated by SAcH DE Paris LILLIAN Barret? writes of Newport's Casino Theater Avis OUS les modéles reproduits dans notre magazine sont la propriété de leurs créateurs. Les reproductions, imitations ou contrefagons méme partielles peuvent toujours entrainer contre leurs auteurs des poursuites de la part des créateurs et de l’ Association des Arts Plastiques et Appliqués en France et a Il’ Etranger. Published monthly by the INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE COMPANY, INC., at 119 West 40th Street, New York City. Ray Lone, C. H. Hatuaway, ARTHUR S. Moore, Austin W. CLARK President. Vice-President. Treasurer. Secretary. Copyright, 1927, by International Magazine Company, Inc. (Harper's Bazar). All rights reserved under terms of the Fourth American International Convention of Artistic and Literary Copyright. 50 cents a copy; subscription price, United States and possessions, $4.00 a year; Canada, $5.00; Foreign, $6.00. All subscriptions are payable in advance. Unless otherwise directed we begin all subscriptions with the current issue. When sending in your renewal, please give us four weeks’ notice. When changing an address give the old address as well as the new and allow five weeks for the first copy to reach you. Manuscripts must be typewritten and accompanied by return postage. They will be handled with care, but this magazine assumes no responsibility for their safety. Harper's Bazar is fully protected by copyright and nothing that appears in it may be reprinted either wholly or in part without permission.

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8 | 5s ee oe Chocolates that concentrate the rare riches of the Spanish Main. Found in the pictured package of PLEASURE ISLAND—and brought home to you at the nearest store selected to sell 9 PLEASURE ‘ISLAND CHOCOLATES HARPER’S BAZAR

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OCTOBER 1927

fa t1che@s ~<— STORY came to me the other day of a wealthy American, which had in a it that blending of humor and pathos which makes an anecdote really good. It seems that a certain millionaire in poor health had been told e by his doctor that he must walk not less than five miles every day. But when the patient started to obey instructions along the roads near his country home, he found them so crowded with traffic that it was impossible for a mere pedestrian to saunter forth. Therefore he was obliged to give up the country, which he loved, and go to live in his city home. which he rather disliked—so that he could walk in peace along Fifth Avenue. This is the kind of thing that is always happening to rich people. Yet the legend persists that wealth makes for happiness. Despite the fact that we see guards in front of marble palaces—palaces which the casual passer-by might call homes

we go on thinking that life behind grilled doorways is sweeter than anywhere else. Not long ago a friend of mine was in one of those very palaces in our metropolis. The wealthy owner of it had asked her to call on a private mission. After luncheon she sat in the drawing-room, listening to the saddest story she had ever heard: the old story of a selfish daughter who had brought nothing but sorrow into the lives of her parents. My friend faced the window where she could see the Avenue; yet she herself could not be observed. Omnibuses passed and repassed, and frequently, when traffic signals were changed, they came to a standstill before the mansion. Then my friend told me she could see passengers pointing out this house—one of the show-places of the city—nodding their heads in apparent envy of its grandeur and those who dwelt behind its handsome walls. The irony of the situation was obvious. Too often we imagine that affluence is the most desirable condition one could attain. We think that riches bring repose. But as one’s wealth increases, responsibilities are automatically created. A woman friend of mine, who had not by any means been born rich, found herself ye suddenly possessed of a million dollars. Her life became instantly cluttered with hea lawyers, secretaries and servants. The old simplicity which she had so enjoyed vanished Be into thin air. Her old safe-deposit boxes were too small to contain her manifold papers, her stock certificates and bonds. She remembered how Thoreau had said in that best a. of all books, ‘‘ Walden,” how wise it was not to clutter up one’s house with needless Ni furniture. Two chairs were enough. If an extra guest came, the hostess could sit , upon the floor. But of course she realized that sensible old Thoreau was exaggerating, am like all pioneers, in order to bring his point more swiftly home. In an age such as ours, Sy i ° “ar one must conform, one must become a definite part of the world’s force and progress. Seldom may we do as we please. We become, as soon as we are born, part of a scheme, a plan; and each of us has his little place in the intricate pattern. Not that the rich cannot be happy. They can be happy in a way that others may not, since they are privileged to give more than the rest of us; and it is only in giving that anyone finds the perfection of joy. I do not mean the stupid, unimaginative tossing away of coin; I mean the intelligent distribution of one’s wealth: the well-considered sharing of money with those who perhaps just miss the best that life has to offer, no less than with the tragic poor who have nothing at all. A woman told me that she knew of no greater delight than the lending of her motor to a little school-teacher whose salary was so meagre that she had to walk, in any weather, to and from her school. It is no vicarious sense of happiness that comes to a philanthro- pist like that; it is a direct contact with elemental joy that she knows. And the best of it is that her countenance is an outward revelation of her inner delight. She is just about the happiest woman I know. CHARLES Hanson TOWNE.

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HARPER’S BAZAR

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OCTOBER 1927 WHAT IS NEW IN PARIS a TM , Che . 3 en ( ‘dint of 1 le Great Saris H ~Jreal cSaris OULSeS are dual hy BARON DE MEYER MARJORIE HOWARD ILLUSTRATED BY BARON DE MEYER BERNARD B. DE MONVEL MARY MAC KINNON REYNALDO LUZA DYNEVOR RIYS oT 2 .¢ ., BARON DE MEYER

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HARPER’S HE Patou collection is superb—a monument to and good taste. Though rich, because of texture and detail, the collection in its final an- alysis might summed up in two simplicity!’ The beautiful modern supple textures, as Patou treats them, lend themselves magnificently to his particular style of smart- Patou models somehow do not look like models, nor do the girls who show them look like mannequins. On the contrary, they give the impression of being smart society women of the kind one might meet at Cannes and Biarritz—come across from the Ritz to walk through Patou’s salons. Sports clothes in this collection are of the sort every woman needs and for—the quintessence of smartness. The well-known Patou belt stripes are still noticeable on most sweaters. Over these, cardigan jackets or fur-lined paletots in English materials look extraordinarily serviceable. All colorings are exquisite, shades used by Patou being chosen with utmost care. The predominant note is deep black, reticence cries be words: ‘Sumptuous ness. craves or a atou TOUS LES MOOFLES DEPOSES white, beige, brown, gray, a range of blue —from an inky shade to palest Nattier— and a lovely fuchsia. New at Patou’s is the use made of stiff taffeta: flounced taffeta, bunched taffeta, and draped taffeta. Mousseline de soie and supple velvets are treated almost identically, while embroideries, which Patou uses profusely, are all of them novel in treatment. As to afternoon gowns, they are remarkably varied in style and handling. Some might even be simplified “robes de style,” while others cut with slenderizing godets are true Patou classics. A few new color combinations, and a few other personal im- pressions: Bronze velvet with red fox. Harmonies produced by an assemblage of lavender, violet, and navy. “‘ Amour Amour”: a very full black chiffon—almost a picture gown. Two evening coats—* Les Epis d’Or’’—one of white, the other of champagne- colored brocade woven with golden wheat ears. These coats have Russian sable collars. A delightful series of immensely full tulle ball gowns consisting of layers of superposed frills. These frocks are shown in beige, in blue, in gold, and in white. satin, and especially of BAZAR

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for OCTOBER 1927 pProren ° tee = > 0 eR PE j a ‘ . —_ i tm mer a — S LES WOOFLES OEPosES oo collection exempli- fies this designer’s rare ability of producing gowns which give to women ches an appearance of both youth and slim- = ness. The secret of this achievement seems to reside in “abbreviation” both in width and length, in fact, in the discarding of all superfluous material. The Molyneux sil- houette is recognizable anywhere and typifies this talented Anglo-Parisian designer’s point of view in clothes. It is so excellent in line as to entirely dominate his models. The almost identical shape in endless variations is repeated by him throughout his collection, and though he merely changes tex- tures, color, and detail work, he succeeds in imparting variety. He is, to an astonishing degree, possessed of true sartorial cleverness. His sworts clothes are excellent; the absence of what might be superfluous quite remarkable. Novel details are merely im- provements in cut on last year’s models in tricot sweaters, in- creased comfort in sports skirts, and more serviceable overcoats. Molyneux’s great talent resides in principally conceiving ce. Ns UILCUNX clothes as ensembles. A slim little gown and an even narrower wrap are combined with becoming headgear, either tiny or wide-brimmed. His new notes are un- even hem-lines and little sleeveless boleros worn over evening gowns. He is very faithful to beaded gowns. These appear to be fashioned in glittering textures with merely a flower or jeweled ornament at the waist as finishing touches. Short crystal fringes are made into entire skirts combined with plain georgette or velvet bodices. Diamonds on dark velvets, brilliants on white materials, and richly embroidered evening coats are very numerous. Molyneux, the master designer of elaborate and dressy pa- jamas, shows quite a number of these delightful garments. One of rose velvet is combined with a mauve chiffon coat, edged by a border of voluminous mauve feathers. Another is of pale gray satin embroidered with pearls to be worn under a pink mauve and gold brocaded wrap. A pair of scarlet velvet pa- jamas combine with a black chiffon coat edged with scarlet velvet roses en relief. It is most effective.

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Hk Lanvin collection produces not BZ only an impression of homogeneous perfection impossible to duplicate, but is also a_ successful manifestation of hew to express one’s own personality. To be able to remain true to oneself is in itself as wonderful an achievement as possessing the imaginative qualiiications needed for designing an entire collection. I never felt the Lanvin atmosphere expressed as strongly as in this collection, possibly because of Madame Lanvin’s having only recently assured me that this season’s novelty would be the “‘Lanvin atmosphere intensified.”” She has certainly kept her word, for this is one of the best collections she has ever produced—a collection which might easily take its name from the luck-bringing penguin, as, with obvious exceptions, it is, from A to Z, the ‘“black-and-whitest”’ collection which has ever been cesie¢ned by any one. It starts with a diagonally zebra-striped tweed, a “ Rodier special Several suits and coats are shown in this material, some of them with Breton jackets with blouses tucked into skirts. Long coats are semi-iitting, in some cases indicating the waist-line, the result being modernized hour-glass figures. A most original coat is circular in cut on one side only, giving the impression of a swirling Spanish “Capa.” This garment is repeated in five different editions, undoubtedly ‘the’? Lanvin ches CGuoanvin S LES MODELES DEFOSES \ smart black ) model of the season. : faille golf jacket is worn over a white grosgrain waistcoat combined with a long black velvet sports overcoat. It is lined and collared with ermine. Madame Lanvin’s partiality to buttons is well known, though she generally uses them for decorative purposes only. One model is named ‘‘ Rubis” because of one large single ruby button on a gray marocain gown, while another called “Soli- taire’’ has one specially large diamond fastening the collar. Skirts for evening wear all droop in the back and brilliant spangled textures are used as much as ever. These are Lanvin specialties. An attractive series of chiffon and lace evening gowns is particularly original. So are the new “robes de style”’ in either all black or all white. The black models which are lavishly ornamented with strass are very much puffed out. Some others consist of thousands of tiny frills reaching high up to the normal waist-line. “Lohengrin”? and ‘*Walkiire’”’ are amazing black creations which have dazzling silver armor-like bodices, while “Ciel de Naples” consisting of masses of sapphire-blue spangles over black net flounces is a dream of loveliness. Midnight blue velvet combined with much turquoise jewelry is another novelty, as are jeweled flower garlands made into neckbands. The latter are particularly attractive. HARPER’S BAZAR

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for OCTOBER 1927 -— beautiful. It typifies simplicity in all its phases, complex simplicity, intricate simplicity, as well as imaginative simplicity; a relief from uninspired banality masquerading as modern plain- ness. Eye-stunning styles at Lelong’s belong to the past. Em- broideries seem more discreet, more refined, in fact are used sparingly and always with unerring taste and much tact. Asymmetry—harmonious asymmetry, of course—is the pre- dominant note of this inspired collection, and color harmonies, so far supposed to clash, are used extensively. Lelong calls these ‘“‘dissonant harmonies” and uses them mostly for after- noon ensembles, a distinct trend toward an afternoon atmos- phere in dress being very noticeable. Skirts are neither full nor tight, neither too short nor too long, for anything too long looks prehistoric, while too much abbrevia- tion is easily vulgar. A luminous midnight blue makes its appearance at Lelong’s, as well as new shades of green, one a lemon green and the other a pale tone called “tige de roseau.’”’ The surprise of the col- lection, however, is a brand new color called “L. L. Blue,” neither Nattier nor peacock but reminiscent of both. Sports attire is as usual featured, the principal novelty being a series of ensembles consisting of plain skirts, tricot sweaters | i i ' i | ' | | | oS SAREE ee : E ELONG shows the most satisfying ) with geometrical patterns and cardigan and distinguished collection he jackets in harmonizing shades. has so far produced. Masterly in ches . elono _Day dresses show little blousing. conception, it is homogeneous and truly ran) Gowns fit snugger than before and hang straight from the shoulders. ‘‘ Poppee,” a lovely bright blue velvet afternoon gown, is an excellent example of this type. A marked feature of all this season’s collections is the variety of novel velvets. They are to be seen almost every- where, both plain and figured. Some of these velvets are so sheer as to be almost transparent. Most evening wraps at Lelong’s are of plain velvet, ample mantles with deep, very full flounces reaching to the hip. Many of them are trimmed with fur. The collection of distinguished-looking evening gowns is most satisfying, especially a series of dead black dresses which are perfect in style. A black model called “‘Caresse,” for in- stance, consists of layers of fan-like plaits snugly encircling the figure. Another named “ Complice”’ is of black velvet combined with a silver and black striped wrap—and yet another is a splendid ensemble consisting of glittering black velvet, ermine, and silver. “‘Emancipee” is a wonderful “L. L. Blue” velvet gown which has two very large wings embroidered in blue diamonds spread over both skirt and bodice. These are some of Lelong’s most sumptuous achievements. In his quest after simplicity he seems this season to have well- nigh reached perfection.

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HARPER’S “4 N ADELEINE VIONNET’S beautiful new winter collection is the outcome of unceasing research work . 7~x and contains some of the most in- CILEXS teresting and successful clothes which have been shown in Paris this season. Her models, divested of all that might be considered superflu- ous—as well as her creative ability—are in a class all by them- selves, being far removed from what in former days character- ized designers of “feminine frivolity.” Madeleine Vionnet is recognized the wide world over as the inventor and foremost exponent of chastened and modernized simplicity in dress. \ kind of simplicity far more sophisticated and complex than any hitherto known elaboration! Notes made at Vionnet’s while the collection passes: Femin- ine fashions. Absence of masculine sports atmosphere very noticeable. Sweaters of various woolen textures with incrustations of contrasting materials in typical Vionnet pat- terns . . New designs taking on the form of horizontal zigzags ‘“*Lavaliere” cravats of tricot worn with sweaters. Much velveteen used for simple town and country suits Coats and capes being specially featured. . . Nutria and golden seal appearing as trimming on many sports garments. Nutria sleeves on long “ mastic’’ coat prolonged 0 into triangular fur pieces reaching down re. to the hem of garment. Bands of 10011 rel fur on dark slim-looking coats; either inch wide or extremely broad down the front. . . . Much ermine, squirrel, and gray astrakhan on dark woolen textures. One of the most noticeable features is the new umbrella shaped gown, cut in circumference and on the bias: result— a limp garment which hangs straight from the shoulder, belted in... . Much black satin for both afternoon and evening wear. . . . Pastel-colored satins, sheer velvets—gold lamé and metal gauzes used for classic Vionnet models which, in former collections, were mostly shown in crépe. . . . Silk fringes still in favor. Shirred chiffon bands for hip- line effects are a novel kind of decoration. . New shades hyacinth, aquamarine, and opaline blue. Capes are shown in every shape and form; in horizontally striped metal textures, in velvet, in ermine, in chinchilla, sable, and cloth. Some, slim with fitted shoulders; others, volumin- ous and impressive. A cape of festooned silver tube beads shading to steel has a white fox collar, and is magnificent. A ruby red cape composed of innumerable rows of long silk fringe, which are fastened at bottom of the garment to inside lining, is a decided novelty. BAZAR

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for OCTOBER 1927 HE Drecoll collection is replete with novel detail, for novelty of line would be “unfashionable in 1927. It has often been said that to produce eccentric models was comparatively easy, but that to achieve “chastened simplicity” by eliminating every decorative feature is a most complicated problem. (I’m sure it’s true.) Detail work has therefore become the leading feature of every Paris collection. Waist-lines are in most instances hardly indi- cated, though the Drecoll demarcation is undoubtedly placed much higher than it was last season. Materials seem to be carelessly wrapped about the figure, often enhanced by em- broidery, the actual waist-line being only hinted at in places. This gives a novel aspect to quite a number of attractive models. Lamés are not much used at Drecoll’s this season and are replaced by satin, sheer, almost transparent, velvets, and by chiffon. Skating costumes are a most picturesque novelty. A circular white skirt, a brilliant red hussar jacket trimmed with white frogs and shown with an astrakhan cap and heavy boots is most alluring. Ski-suits from the Drecoll establishment at St. Moritz are supremely correct as to detail. A dark green suit has orange-colored pipings on every seam to match a ol les —//reco Baron de Meyer woolen scarf, and other sports costumes are particularly noticeable because of their smart usefulness. The most attractive “ensembles” for both day and evening wear are presented in velvet. ‘Velour tramé,” for instance, which is shot with metal is a great novelty, a very rich looking texture especially suited for evening wraps. One of these in petunia velvet over gold tissue reembroidered in diamanté is splendidly reminiscent of some garment designed during the Renaissance period for Eleonora d’Este. Unrelieved black is, as in most other houses, a distinct feature. Skirts appear to be extremely short, though it was pointed out to me they actually were much longer than last season. Quite a unique and arresting feature at Drecoll’s is a series of very feminine tea-gowns which I am told are still immensely popular in England. One, of white crépe romain over flesh, is brocaded with garlands of black velvet laurel leaves, while another called “Quelques fleurs” resembles Botticelli’s famous “Primavera.” A most interesting evening wrap of white satin—the deco- rative pattern stitched in black and reembroidered in strass has incrustations of black fur following the outlines of the pattern. Fur combined with embroidery is extremely new.

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HARPER’S BAZAR HIS season’s Chanel collection is one of the finest achievements of her career; her showing it an inter- national event. While preserving her own inimitable cachet of restrained elegance throughout the collection, she succeeds in infusing a hitherto unknown note of real magnificence into many of her more elaborate afternoon and evening ensembles, ‘ magnifi- cent” being quite a new term for a Chanel creation. The collection contains quite a large number of novel features of importance to the world of fashion. Entirely new editions of old favorites make their welcome reappearance in new com- binations of fabrics and embroidery enhanced by charming detail-work of the kind sure to be copied and made popular in both Europe and America during the next few weeks. For sports—morning and afternoon wear—tweeds, tricots, or cotton velvets are much favored. Trés chic are short, flaring box-coats over belted sweater-like blouses, and long overcoats of tweed and varied English fabrics to be worn over sports clothes. Though Parisian, such serviceable garments for sports and country derive from the best type of English dressing and might cries be defined as possessing looseness in fit and studied carelessness. Notes taken down at Chanel’s while the collection is shown: the ee me Shooting-suit atmosphere prevailing in all country clothes. . Tartan textures used for suits—finished off with ragged edges. (‘Ragged edges” being half- inch-wide ravelings of the tweed.) Cardigan type of tricot gilets with hip bands attached, fastened in front by buckle. Buckles made of colored crystals or strass used even on tricot sweaters. Heliotrope jersey—a novelty. . . . A beige “ boucle” fabric shot with almond green and com- bined with crepella. Velvets and lamés lined with striped tricot. . . . Evening gowns with uneven hem-line a feature. Even hem-lines dowdy-looking in 1927. Ostrich feathers used on pink chiffon gown as well as black and cerise glycerined feathers on black georgette. Many lace dresses shown in attractive shades: turquoise, violet, navy. Beaded gowns as popular as ever—treated in novel ways. Beaded fabrics masquerading as lace. . . . All embroideries imi- tating brocaded surfaces. Brocade for evening coats a Chanel novelty. The two best evening gowns of the collection: 422. ‘Violette de parme” chiffon, with long ruffled swallow tails reaching to the ground. . . . 475. Silver- beaded texture and white chiffon; the skirt having a very long and pronounced tail. It is a tall woman’s dress! 1caulie

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or OCTOBER 1927 7). | pe those who despise’ the stance, consists of a blouse in muslikasha, a tan kasha cardigan Pe a fashionable aspect of the modern jacket and scarf anda skirt and top-coat of brownish tweed, both woman dressed en serie, Poiret’s skirt and coat harmonizing but not being of the same material. new collection of clothes contains undreamt-of visions of Another combination consists of gray tweed, navy kasha, beauty. Poiret intentionally ignores the trend of current a red sash the color of which is introduced as a lining, and a fashions and follows his own inclinations in matters of design gray tweed top-coat. and color. Art alone is his inspiration for creating the kind “Lapin mauve” is a harmony in four different shades of of pictorial clothes suitable for picturesque and individual mauve and heliotrope, while a favorite Chantal combination women. An hour spent at Poiret’s establishment is as much of seems to be yellow and beige and bordeaux next to scarlet. an education as a visit to some art gallery. It is most thrilling to be kept guessing as to what vivid The Poiret waist-line, as usual, wanders prodigiously and color will suddenly be revealed from beneath the simplest and may be discovered low down, or again high up: in most cases, most unostentatious of dark overcoats. Will it be vivid green however, it occupies its normal position. This in most houses or brilliant scarlet? Somehow, one is never disappointed. produces a pre-war impression, but succeeds at Poiret’s in Madame Chantal uses any number of soft woolen fabrics, conveying an atmosphere of Greece. some interesting Rodier tweeds, and a great deal of velvet. Poiret uses velvet in all conceivable shades, beautiful bro- Her evening gowns are as colorful as her day clothes, with cades, and much gold and silver, besides the fabrics he invents always the subduing note of a most unobtrusive covering in and which no one can handle but himself. He shows practically the form of a long coat or cape. Delightful is a beige and gold no tailored suits and hardly any sports clothes. velvet garment edged with lynx, displaying visions of jade- Most original is a very full-skirted green velvet afternoon green chiffon over a yellow foundation. gown called ‘‘ Mortemart” which, worn A hyacinth colored velvet wrap is with a beige and gold waistcoat, has a oa very high collar. Many gilt shells form a hat combined to harmonize with this costume. A clinging gray marocain coat and plaited skirt have pale green silver em- broidered braids to edge the jacket. The model is very appropriately named “Institut.” Another glorified suit de style called “Louis XIII.” is designed in brown velvet with rose-red bows and a golden guipure collar. “Zig Zag’ is a voluminous beige mantle decorated by geometrical bands of black velvet. ““Neige’” are snowdrifts of ostrich feather strands on pure white satin, and “Vermer” the newest looking robe de style imaginable. It consists of a tight- fitting black velvet jacket distended at the hips, from which depends an ample black chiffon skirt over a white satin foundation. However, the most beautiful creation of all is “Charles VIL.”—a ruby velvet garment with flowing sleeves embroid- ered in goid and lined with a mellowed green. This garment is worn over a short white satin petticoat. Last but not least must be mentioned a long-trained and very short-waisted gown of green and rose metal brocade. It has both feet and ankles protruding from slits ingeniously provided in order not to interfere with the sweeping motion of the train. -) A me (Qrantal Lani satin walls with Chantal green and Chantal pink hang- ings are an excellent setting for a new Chantal collection. This designer’s pronounced individuality is noticeable in everything she produces. Her unques- tioned originality never oversteps the boundaries of good taste and lends to an excellent collection a very precious quality, namely, exquisite and colorful charm. Her dramatic inventions are always a welcome surprise, making a visit to her lovely new establishment most delightful and entertaining. The unquestioned feature of the Chantal collection consists of a number of morning and afternoon ensembles, which in some cases include as many as four or five different fabrics and shades. ae rae ee 2 oe bt ea we ae eee Such ense ‘Ss mi > termed f P _Such ensembles might be termed four or os ass owers five piece suits. One of them, for in- (fp; from Ha, Saris shown over a full lavender mousseline de soie gown, and the combination of thick ivory satin with “dahlia” velvet and sable is very splendid. Most elaborate of all is an almost regal looking garment in three shades of gold, lined with Venetian red velvet and worn over a gold lace evening gown which in spite of its abbreviated length manages to have frés grande allure. er ‘Call ches C/uganne ee — TALBOT’S new collec- + tion reveals this designer’s most recent acquisition, namely her masterly touch of execution. Added to her achievement of being now considered one of the most,imaginative artist de- signers in Paris it should increase her ever-growing prestige to a very great extent. Her really beautiful collection contains nothing but most satisfying models replete with valuable elements of novelty. Any amount of deft touches reflect this sensitive artist’s unusual color sense as well as her intelligence in handling hitherto unknown fabrics. She uses conventional well selected tweeds, textures containing metal with wool, and a new kind of reversible bro- cade having lamé patterns on one side and velvet on the other. An unusual novelty! A Talbot specialty are suits with both sweater and belt showing below bolero- like jackets. Another of her ingenious inventions is a novel kind of plaited skirt which is neither plaited nor flat, the effect of plaits being produced by narrow bands cut on the bias and deftly assembled. This clever designer further shows a surprising series of black and gold and white and gold afternoon and evening gowns, surprising because of their excel- lence. Her smart dull black takes on, by a mere touch of gold unerringly ap- plied, an atmosphere reminiscent of Rome, of Greece, of Egypt. Bright cornflower blue is used effec- tively on dull black. So are large golden dots. A black georgette gown is made to look as if it were gray because of its unique seed-pearl embroidery trans- forming plain georgette into a most precious texture. A surplice gown em- broidered in jewels has as a founda- tion a full sleeved “chemise” of striped gold material adequately named “‘Scheherezade.”’

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. M. Mary Nowirrzky . M. Jane Reony . M. Martiat er ARMAND 11 A. Noon. CHANTAL M. Goupy M. CHANEL A SUMMARY OF THE MODE 1 P.M. Yres 2P. M. Wortn 3 P. M. Drecoir 4 P. M. Reprern 5 P. M. DeeviLLet 6 P. M. Bernarp MADE FRO THE FALL COLLECTIONS IN PARIS SILHOUETTE KIRTS: There is a definite change in the silhouette. This is principally in the skirts, which are both fuller and longer. The added length is mostly in evening skirts, and in two different forms. One is the extremely uneven hem-line, short at one point, and touching or nearly touching the ground at others. While this is not essentially new, the extent to which it has been carried gives a new effect. Other skirts touch, or almost touch, the ground in the back, and are lifted in the front, in an oval outline. The short, straight-all-round evening skirt now looks démodé. Skirts, in general, are of supreme importance. They are much fuller, and in some cases godets have returned at the front or sides. The tube-silhouette is finished. Even straight effects give plenty of room for walking. Some are turned under at the hem in Zouave fashion. Many are paneled; many plaited, though one or two deep plaits in front are more usual than plaited-all-round skirts for sports. The culotte skirt is seen in many examples. While evening skirts are now definitely long at some point, afternoon skirts, sometimes also uneven in hem-line, are only a little longer in most cases. Street and sports skirts are short as ever. They will remain so, carrying out the new feeling of adapting details to the purpose of the gown, or to the individual figure. This is both practical and sensible. WAIST-LINES: The same thing, adaptation to indi- vidual needs, is true of waist-lines. While they are gradually creeping up, the tendency is to suit the placing of the waist-line to the individual figure. A slightly shortened waist, and a slightly lengthened skirt give different proportions to the figure, thus subtly changing the silhouette. While there are any number of belts, girdles, and swathed hip effects, the princess line which does away with belts altogether, and marks the lines of the upper body, has reappeared at several houses, an example of the spirit of contradiction of the present mode. HIPS: Paradoxically, hips are accentuated because it is fashionable to have none. A slender figure marks its slenderness at this point by a girdle, yoke, or wrapped effect. The blousing of the bodice which continues, begins rather higher up this year, but shows off slender hips to advantage. The huge bow on one hip, and the draping of a gown to one hip, are both good. DRAPERY: The draped gown is definitely here. It is found in afternoon and evening models in every collec- tion. This leads to a complication in the handling of material which demands a master hand, and definitely distinguishes the creation of a grande maison from that of an inferior house or from a copy. ASYMMETRY: The one-sided or asymmetric gown is SO important at several houses as to constitute a feature of the silhouette. The surplice bodice, the drape to one hip, the long diagonal line from the shoulder on one side to the hip on the other, the placing of trimming and embroidery, are all examples of the asymmetric idea. TRIMMINGS UT: Trimmings are far less important per se than they used to be. The newest is really extreme compli- cation of cut. Between the bordering lines of a slim, apparently straight silhouette, we find tremendous complication of line, given by the cut of the gown, by the use of sections of material, incrustations and appli- cations, the two sides of the same material, or the con- trast of two colors or two materials. APPLICATIONS: Incrustations and applications are favorites in every collection. Fine workmanship in the material itself also constitutes much modern trim- ming. Pin-tucks, plaits, shirring, cording, etc: DIAGONAL LINES: Lines, both of cut and trim- ming, are diagonal, triangular; in short, geometric. BEADS: Beads have staged a comeback for evening, but in the new form of an all-over beaded georgette that is used like a simple material. Short bead fringes, or HARPER’S BAZAR

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for OCTOBER 1927 7 P.M. Lanvin 8 P. M. Letone 9 P. M. Jenny 10 P. M. Suzanne TaLpor 11 P. M. Premet Mipnicut. Beer Descriptions of these models may be found on page 184. loops, are also revived, some long silk fringes are seen, but they are on the wane. Strass and other glittering embroideries are seen, but mostly in the form of lines and light tracery. Nevertheless, some very richly embroidered gowns are found for great occasions. EMBROIDERY: Embroidery is not of first impor- tance, but when it is used, it forms an essential part of the conception of the gown. A novelty is the use of inter- laced strips of the material of the gown, like ribbons. Entire gowns of interlaced ribbons are found at Lanvin’s. A little ostrich is used, mostly at hem-lines. FURS: While furs are really trimmings, they are important enough for a separate paragraph. The most interesting development is the fur-trimmed suit, made of rich afternoon materials and as far away from the strict tailleur as it is from the sports suit. Coats continue to be immensely important and are also of rich materials, this year, heavily trimmed with fur. There are two classes of furs, flat furs of which the leaders are astrakhan, caracul, and breitschwanz, and long-haired furs, the leaders being fox and lynx. Light fur on dark material is still good, but matching or con- trasting furs and materials are increasingly important. JEWELRY: The principal “trimming” of the sea- son is jewelry. Gowns have their special ornaments, in gold, in silver, and particularly in “‘diamonds,” and in colored stones of the semi-precious variety, usually imitations of such gems as aquamarine, topaz and amethyst, but sometimes the real stones themselves. Worth has revived the jewel-embroidered gown, reminis- cent of the Renaissance. COLOR OLOR is immensely important. In general it is sober, dark, and restrained for daytime; pale for eve- ning. Fewtones are used frankly; they are attenuated with white, softened, or mixed with other shades. Black is still a leader for all times. Brown has come back in all shades, from biscuit to seal. It takes a cocoa tinge in some houses (Patou), and a chestnut or tobacco tinge in others (Chéruit, Chantal, Deeuillet). Black and white combined are popular (Lanvin). The blues are very interesting, especially the middle blues. They merge into greens resulting in a peacock tone (Lelong). 1A. M. Patou 9 3 A. M, Motyneux + A. M. Vionnet 5 A. M. Cuervit A. 6 A, M. Potrer For evening, they are pale, faint hyacinth or aquamarine (Vionnet), or turquoise (Lanvin), but they may be strong royal shades, or deep midnight. Dark bottle green is seen for both day and evening (Worth). A verdigris that is neither gray-green nor blue is seen for afternoon and evening (Patou, etc.). Pale greens are good for evening, the shade called “ Nile” being revived (Drecoll). Grays are well represented, but they will not reach the overwhelming popularity of beiges in these last few years. While wine reds have left the mode, a note of bright red, especially in sports clothes and evening wraps, cannot be ignored (Premet, Chanel). Pink is very strong for evening, especially pale rose and apricot. A note of purple (Chanel, Poiret). Yellow is an estab- lished evening color, while orange is making a more tentative appearance (Chéruit). The yellow-greens, chartreuse and absinthe, etc., are seen a good deal. White retains its evening importance, but pale or pastel colors lead. MATERIALS ELVETS: In general, materials are richer. Velvets are the basis of the new mode. They appear in all types, velveteen, corduroy, straight pile, panne chiffon, real and artificial silk, printed, raised, checked and shaded. They make models of every type from rubber- ized velvet waterproofs, to wedding gowns. The new incredibly sheer evening velvets seem to me to have the best chance of success with smart women. SATIN: Next after velvets, satins have been im- mensely used for afternoon and evening gowns. A heavy stiff satin has reappeared for evening in modified robes de style and in coats. The crépe satins, used with incrustations and applications, the shiny on the dull side, are featured everywhere. LAMES: Lamés appear as evening coats; as draped evening gowns, and as blouses and tunics, or occasionally as whole dresses with handsome ensemble suits. TAFFETA AND MOIRE: There is an interesting tendency toward the use of stiffer materials, of which taffeta and moire are examples. Old-fashioned straight- pile velvets are in the same category. Taffeta is used considerably in some collections, and entirely ignored by others. Moire appears in at (Concluded on page 150) A. M, LovisEBOULANGER

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HARPER’S BAZAR louiseboulanger Louiseboulanger has further developed. her most characteristic silhouette, that of her three-quarter cape, into a coat. This model is of black broadcloth, trimmed with light fox. The coat is hardly distinguishable from a cape, and its graceful smartness depends upon whether the wearer knows how to drape it becomingly.

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for The two-piece frock in the center of the group is made of gray kasha. Zigzag lines that are varicolored give this model an entirely modern aspect. They also remind one of the sigsag designs on Indian earthenware. Deuillet, who is best known by his unusual handling of diagonals and angles, de- signed this palest of flesh OCTOBER 1927 doeuillet The other Deuillet models typify his predilection for angles. (Left) This black rep frock derives distinction from diagonal lines piped in black satin. The sleeves and scarf are plain with the diag- onal lines used as a border. pink evening gowns. Unob- trusive embroidery and short fringes set on diagonal lines mark the slender silhouette.

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HARPER’S BAZAR (Left) This ensemble from Redfern makes an interest- ing design in front by the way it is cut in curves, which indicate a graceful 2 down-in-back movement. t e aa 4 ef The coat, black broadcloth, is cut to show a black broadcloth frock beneath. The Baronne Fouquier, creator for Lenief this sea- son, designed this model of black satin. The curving lines indicate a_ higher waist-line, the two peplum lines indicate the hip-line. The gown is embroidered with silver and_ beads. redfern

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OCTOBER 1927 Dark green velvet is used for this evening coai, de- signed by Beer, which is worn over a frock of the new gray-green shade called “‘lava.”’ The fur is gray fox, and the cape- back hangs full from an embroidery of diamonds. Chantal’s most magnifi- cent evening coat is of black velvet, very full in the skirt and edged with dark fur with a band of the new very shiny cloth of gold that looks like the metal itself, beneath it. The fastening is made of gold. chantal

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HARPER’S BAZAR premet One of the most exciting things about the Premet collection was the series of evening gowns with remarkably uneven hem-lines. One was of black velvet with two silk roses on the skirt, one pastel pink, and one pastel blue. Another Premet gown is of white satin, made with a subtle and complicated cut that shows in the sketch above. This too has the new uneven hem-line characteristic of this house. The contrasting flowers are newly placed.

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for OCTOBER 1927 ee = = = i | | i | | This is Chanel’s most interesting chiffon gown. It is interesting not only because of its swallow tail, composed of pointed pieces set one over the other, but because of its deep purple color and its down-in-back movement.

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HARPER’S BAZAR Lon Charla OC Daihina — - harles orth “Worth blue” is a lovely new pale blue shade launched by Worth, and worn in this drawing by Madame Jean Charles Worth herself. Madame W orth’s blonde beauty is a perfect background for this gown designed by her husband, a gown of chiffon and lace, all dyed the same exquisite blue color.

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for OCTOBER 1927 | i i | po ae | se ann cn — — — — = — - nen pe we Td is Dognes Louiseboulanger designed this gown worn by Madame Agnés, a gown of flowered taffeta, draped in the Louiseboulanger manner. ~ This gown has had great success, but Madame Agnés was the first to wear it in Paris. * Madame Agnés is herself an artist, a designer of hats of an extraordinarily modern feeling.

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HARPER’S BAZAR TO as J vonine tila, Madame Yvonne Davidson, head of one of the successful newer houses in Paris, is the wife of Jo Davidson, the famous American sculptor. Madame Davidson is, herself, one of the old Breton family of de Kerstrat. Madame Davidson is wearing a gown of her own designing, a double gown of two shades of gray crépe.

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for OCTOBER 1927 " > Vac ame fr enny The house of Jenny, with Madame Jenny as its artist-designer, devotes its particular interest to making women appear youthful and in spirit with this modern age. An excellent proof of this is Madame Jenny herself, wearing her own model of gold lamé with a gold thread sweater and gold lamé scarf and belt.

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THE MODE IS MADE OF LITTLE THINGS HARPER’S BAZAR Che Paris Collects /}? o, real C he aris \Volleclhions are a aller o / | Ppp aAA Anode Pe \ ve Cheah £ sail int .zeellent é ‘ : | fi p 2 a roporlion o}] “ime - aS rem BY MARJORIE HOWARD a hs trl rf oe 2 ‘ * a1, blrreed ‘ a har torr & 7 a / \ : "Noles nLeek vl yp / _Lkgat- Clee eae j U tuk f pk plahe. o / b OVELTY in the win- ter collec- tions reminds one of “the little more and how much it is, and the little less and what worlds away!” That is because what novelty there is—and I assure you that the new clothes do look new—is a matter of pro- portion. Animals, savages, children, and those of undeveloped mind gen- erally cannot grasp proportion; but the SKF readers of Harper’s Bazar will seize these subtleties at once. The little more this year is in the skirts, and the little less in the bodices. You are going to have clothes that will necessi- tfies tate banting and paying a bit more attention to J the daily dozen. But you will be able to cross “4 your knees in evening dress as much as you like ; without any one’s making admonitory gestures. Knees 4 are about to retire from evening view except for elusive glimpses. It may be, if these new skirts have the success A that is predicted for them, that knees will become a mystery once more, for part of the time at least. Daytime skirts, especially sports and street skirts, are still conveniently abbrevi- ated. One of the \ 0 tong most encouraging tendencies of the mode ’ Tek raed pechlace is its constantly increas- . Sy - whet \ of « paton ing adaptation to individ- ual needs and _ individual : ge | figures—a real advance which NG ea | will make for better dressing all \ hee. > around. \ If you want all the details, \ ——3 please turn to pages eighty-six and \ fi \ eighty-seven, where I have pains- ¥ bo TTTY| takingly summarized the collections \ tls pf] taken as a whole. And if you yearn to \ | || know what your favorite Paris house is do- , ing, look up the commentary on its collection which Baron de Meyer and I have given as fully as space allows. 7 Interesting skirts and rich materials are the \ leading motives of the new mode. After these two points, winter fashions become a symphony in F— more formal, more feminine, more fulness, more flare, \ more fit. Yet, so strong is the spirit of contradiction, the \ exact opposites of these characteristics can be seen in the \ same collection. Fashions are more eclectic than ever. The \ sleeve that is wide and puffed at the shoulder, as it was in the ’nineties, is about the only thing that you cannot find anywhere.

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for OCTOBER 1927 But underlying all this variety is the principle of the adapta- tion of clothes to occasions—a principle which we moderns X have carried further than any other generation—and its \ newest variant, the adaptation of models to the propor- \ tions of the individual figure, a thing that the best Paris houses have always done instinctively through the cleverness of their fitters and saleswomen, but which has come to ke more widely realized as a funda- \ mental of good dressing. The increased femininity of clothes bids fair o / to be accepted without a struggle. That was proved in advance by the costumes of the élégantes of Paris during the summer ei 5 \ season. Increased formality will prob- ne B/) A ably have to fight for recognition. I \ |] ~ have explained many times that the 1 As / \ élégante, whose final seal decides * | \ the mode, has one principal preoccupation in clothes— the / SD ~ desire to look as young as : | leu \ With many of \ 0 / - firclent \ the sartorial leaders, in \ of Linea a. fact, it is more than a Vv y ’ desire, it is a necessity. \ This type of woman \ is very clever where her own appear- con- possible. ance is 4 / Chane ifej/ / | / Vy / cerned, and she has learned that for- | fj). ; | ach aud rhc / mality in dress makes \ OhlbtincDect / f Unchld / her look older. Will wee. the pleasure of wearing A more important clothes and ’ richer materials compensate her for a fancied loss of youth- 4 i fulness? You know the answer y Pa to that without my writing it. “Newco” The question of the acceptance of velvet in the quantities promised 4 by the collections comes in here. Judg- / ing from the fashion reports of the open- ings one might imagine that the feminine world would ke entirely velvet-clad for six months to come. But I do not think it will work out that way. I think we shall see many of the transparent chiffon velvet evening dresses of which the collections show such lovely examples; and that we shall have velvet evening wraps galore. We may easily have some of the attractive little velvet frocks to wear under our coats, and even velvet coats for special occasions. But that the Parisienne is going to rush blindly into those gorgeous fur-smothered velvet en- sembles, banishing her cloth fur-collared coat and her little frock of crépe with its intriguingly fine workmanship, I do not believe. Time will tell; but I think these velvet clothes are a bit too sumptuous for every day. They take too much wearing. They are not young. A “‘point”’ of the utmost importance in the collections is the jewelry that almost every house shows with special gowns. You will find some of it among the details sketched by Luza; but the subject is so important that / I am doing special pages on it for the next issue. . A long time ago, Mademoiselle Madeleine, the designer at Drecoll’s, invented a black crépe afternoon gown, draped to the side in her own characteristic way, with a “plain spot”’ left here for a handsome jewel. She called this y her “‘robe a bijoux,” and said she had é done it to help the jewelers. This was at the beginning of the craze for jewelry / i directly after the war. Since then, / jewels have become increasingly / fb ee till those who could” / sg oe not afford real ones were simply / “3 lack Wok Lorre forced into the wearing of oe ee fabrications. So we had the false pearl epoch, when the manufacture of pearl { beads ran into quadril- ! lions a year. Then | came the reign of diamonds, and e fpr |, J 2: f / / / i / ; \ \ 7 f \ \ \ \ i consequently their \ . Terie attempted imitation. ‘ NA We aped as slavishly . y | | ‘ 5 \ 4 | \ as possible at first, as we \ Dra / \ did in the pearl craze, : 2. 4 ie, . \ os SS ~ losing later all sense of “we eS . ‘ shame, and boldly wearing e ‘ 7" 0? A ; first pearls and then “precious MEL mete stones of a size that precluded \ Ye baby ivng the possibility of their being real. \ once ar The new twist, this year, is the use » wribe foot of both real and imitation semi- Wor? precious stones, which started with \ Patou’s big aquamarines last February, shown with special dresses as an accom- panying and almost essential ornament to them. At present, side by side with crystal diamonds that put the Kohinoor in the shade Aone add and glass emeralds like those of an Indian Rajah, z£ are such stones as topaz, amethyst, turquoise, 4 some cleverly imitated; coral, jade; some real, and in every case, the jewel is used as an integral part of the gown, so that it is hard to imagine the model without it. Gold jewelry, of which Premet has long made exquisite use, is still heavily represented, and special silver jewelry is found at several houses. But the gem ornaments gowns are the for individual “note” of the season.

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( ( - ( ountlry ( Lt les a af Cp rom the C/aris (( ih (Left) This is part of a@ many-picced suit by Yteb, the cape of which is shown on page eighty-six. A natural kasha ensemble. (Right) <A sports costume from Bernard et Cie in one of the new green-yellows of kasha and crépe satin. The satin stripes the blouse and skirt.

HARPER’S

BAZAR

We journalists were really quite spoiled this time; so many houses gave evening fétes to present their collections for our special delectation. For nine consecutive evenings we were entertained in a charming fashion that flattered our importance, and had the practical advantage of allowing us to see the openings in the shortest possible time. When I remember our difficulties of the old days, I feel that we should express our hearty gratitude to the houses for the extra trouble they take so willingly to facilitate our work at such a busy time. AT WorTH’S ALWAYS find it delightful when the creator of the models watches a collec- tion with me, explaining his intentions and pointing out his novelties as the mannequins file by. Monsieur Jean Charles did this at Worth’s, beginning with the first tailleur. ‘“‘Men’s trouser striping,’’ he said, picking up a fold of a short sports skirt. ““A new fox—a breed of my own; I did the ‘pointing’ with a paint brush.” This was a smoke-gray skin, the long hairs tipped with black. ‘““Here are my motor capes.” He indicated a group of extremely smart garments, in heavy woolens, fitting the shoulders but flaring comfortably, each in two smartly chosen colors. ‘You see, the colors go with the cars—the dernier chic—red and beige for one new car—dark red and navy, the colors of the King of England.” (Luza is drawing these very doggy capes for November. ) “Another novelty,” continued Monsieur Worth, “tweed coats lined with velvet and worn with matching velvet dresses.”” The tweeds were brownish in color and checked in pattern, and a line of color gave the shade for the velvet.

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OCTOBER 1927 for » ‘i _— ae Et, 6A ae x erste Rae Just here, Madame Ida Rubinstein, the famous mime, dancer, and actress, who is dressed by the Maison Worth, made a wonderful entrance, dressed in a black taffeta robe de style, with a banana-colored Spanish shawl slung over one shoulder. No woman in the world bears herself with the slender grace of this woman; she is like Kipling’s ‘lance in rest.” When the excitement had died down, Mr. Worth went on: ‘A new corduroy with very fine ribs. A new sports idea—you see the jumper is of striped jersey, and the little cardigan jacket of plain navy is lined with the same stripe and it is reversible. Two costumes in one—there’s a practical notion! . . . The house’s biggest advertisement—a gown for 2275 francs.’”’ (This was a neat little frock in our old favorite, blue serge.) ‘‘A new culotte skirt—the bifurcation entirely hidden by the front panel. If women are going to wear trousers, it will have to be in some such form as this. “How do you like my new pajamas? The wide accordion-plaited satin trousers are as becoming as a skirt, and oh! how modest! Perhaps women will like them so well that they will take to them for outdoor wear. “Do you notice how carefully the coats are studied? They are so important nowadays, they have to be made to go over such a variety of dresses. Some of them tie this year. Surely women will enjoy having their hands free once more. And do you notice the short jacket suits, in rich materials, velvet and satin, trimmed with fur? That is the sports influence in its newest form. Trim, easy to wear, but done in splendid materials. “‘Here’s an amusing idea—two long pockets in the front of a tweed skirt— bootlegger pockets, I call them. Specially designed for America! And here is a real novelty—metal as trimming—not embroidery (Continued on page 198) Gu (Left) Midnight-blue kasha and yellow kasha are most effectively combined by Goupy in this simple two-piece model. The belt is blue suéde with a copper buckle. A hat of yellow stitched kasha makes this costume complete. Mary Nowitzky has chosen one of Rodier’s smartest striped kashas, light beige, cream, and dark brown, for this cleverly pieced and curiously modern geometric frock. A dark brown belt with a brass buckle is the only trimming. (Right) taupe silk was designed by Jane Régny. This unusual sweater suit of light blue and Two tucks set above the striped border draw attention to the hip-line. The skirt of taupe crépe satin has a set-in band of blue.

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o ome Perugia is designing shoes and bags White lizard combined with black and while patent-leather is used for this smart ensemble. to match. Delman is the designer of this attrac tive black kid sandal, trimmed with patent-leather, checked and black and piped Perugia has designed a sports oxford and bag to match. This ensemble is worn well with tweeds. The oxford and bag of brown alligator. a p> , ans with with re ‘d gold. A black sharkskin shoe, with a gold chain outlining the instep, is always smart with a black fur coat. From Delman. patent-leather and black For more formal wear the colonial pump is being revived. is made of black antelope trimmed with black lizard. From Delman. This one Brown alligator with wide bands of brown calf for trimming and handle makes a bag to be carried with the oxfords at the left. From Perugia. e J CcessoVvies FOr ot The The slipper shown above is one of It is of black kid and gray-beige lizard, This combination of colors is quite new. Perugia’s newest designs. with a grosgrain ribbon bow. It A new oxford of black suéde is trimmed with patent-leather and has a Cuban heel. This oxford is a com- plement to the suit. From Delman. The sandal is still very smart for Delman has made this one of small-patterned brocade and trimmed it with points of gold kid. evening, The octagonal bag shown below is of gray lisard with applied kid in different grays, matching the san- dal at the right. From Perugia. DUALS (eres reat ere A modern gold and green ornament is used on this green velvet envelope purse. Perugia chose it to match exactly the design on the slipper. Silver kid composes the trimming and heel of this black moire slipper. is suitable for afternoon and in- formal evening wear. From Delman. To be worn with a gray cos- tume, a sandal of gray-beige kid with lizard vamp and heel. The matching makes an ensemble. bag From Perugia. HARPER’S BAZAR Black C Slack oslitmes and —/ome

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for =|

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OCTOBER 1927 163 - Phatann Sport Wear, with Feaple Fras ond che hu Adutumn C ports ear, wilh — eae Troe vS wie: utts

PEPER BE SIFT OE es Oxy SERS nF et aes

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e& °— ; — oS FED. This charming necklace SS ee : ; : . fe ey of white metal is set br ea) oie or é ve with strass. The smart wi . - i square -cut piece of ¥ ty , : i" * strass is extremely effec- ¥ % ive. This necklace is Premet designed this gold necklace iN ¥ Seauttn enail ‘ j ‘ x ite Ts oi “s & # a favorite with the / of negroid inspiration. Figured ~ ae -arisienne. Fro A) : . . Rag Parisienne. From Best. velvet is an effective background ct for such jewelry. From Best. ¥: \

Lanvin designed this new round bag of black suéde with a plain gold top. A narrow strap across the back slips over the hand. From Jay-Thorpe.

(Above) Soft black suéde, trimmed with narrow bands of silver kid makes this envelope purse. The oval clasp is of crystal. From Best.

** River of Diamonds” is what Chanel calls this long chain of strass, joined

with silver bands. JFY) bag. It is of stitched black al antelope. From Kurzman.

A bag of corded gray silk in two shades is trimmed and edged with bands of silver. The top is of metal in modern design. From Best.

Fouquet has designed this com- The lovely necklace on the The bracelet shown above is plicated wide bracelet by over- above figure has a fine silver of gold oblongs joined in such lapping a series of gold scales. chain. The drop, which is a manner as to make it flexible. This type of modern jewelry modern in design, is of chal- It is extremely smart with

is worn in Paris. From Best. cedony. From Jay-Thorpe. black. From Jay - Thorpe.

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BLACK IS HAVING A NEW VOGUE ST) 4 q Black. load HM orn, 1s the Snarlest O locos BY LUCILE BUCHANAN HARPER’S BAZAR An afternoon coat of black broadcloth has a shoulder-ca pe | divided in back, a silhouette \ sponsored by several Paris \ houses. Kurzman, From HU This coat frock is of black sibla kasha, madé with the new tight hip-line banded witn black broadtail. White fur lines the Jay-Thor pe. wuitl} collar and cuffs. HEN Paris decided, recently, to have a renewed vogue for black, every smart American woman in Paris decided that it was the chance of her lifetime—because the smart American woman likes to wear black, above everything else, not only for daytime but for evening. I know that it is the Parisienne who is supposed to be at her smartest in black with one touch of color supplied by her lips, or accessory; but years ago the American woman decided that she would be sophisticated and adopt black, and she has had a weakness for it ever since. The new black costumes are marvels of subtle accessories and carefully chosen exquisitely cut fabrics. Black broadcloth is excellent for day- one several time frocks, made simply, and often of the coat type of frock shown on this page. This broad- cloth is as flexible and easily draped as satin. Not at all the stiff and imposing fabric broad- cloth used to be. Two other broadcloth costumes are shown on this page. One is the coat at the upper left. This, of course, is of heavier broadcloth, handled Broadtail treated in the new way, which renders it even more pliable and exquisitely soft, is used with sable for this formal afternoon coat. Jay-Thorpe. Black broadcloth, a new very fine and flexible kind, is smart- est when it is used for this frock banded with pink moire at the V neck-line. Jay-Thorpe. on perfectly straight lines, with a little cape falling over the shoulders and divided in back. This coat, with its black, very fine caracul collar, has a youthful sil- houette rather refreshing in a season of many tiers and points and bias lines. It is a wrap that may be worn correctly with several of the new types of black afternoon frocks. The other broadcloth costume is a coat- frock made with a tight band around the hips, the top line of which suggests a higher waist- line. Down the front and around the hips are bands of black broadtail, an interesting com- bination of textures. The collar and cuffs of this frock are lined with white ermine. You will see the drawing of this costume at the left.

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for OCTOBER 1927 Black broadtail is now treated so that it is more flexible and exquisite than ever. This is now handled as if it were some beautiful woven fabric. It is gathered, draped, and made with falling ends exactly as a fabric is cut. The has this new softness and ease of line. The sleeve is gathered into the cuff after the fashion of the bishop sleeve we used to wear, and the enormous sable collar rolls over in a soft surplice line. Two long ends of the fabric hang from the shoulders in the back and are loosely tied together. Black velvet, black satin, and black lace, have all appeared for afternoon and eve ning, and all of these fabrics look different than they have any other season. Black velvet has become a marvelous transparent fabric with a straight pile and a chiffon back. This is, of course, artificial velvet, made with a high “bloom,” very perishable and lovely. Impractical, yes, but then most lovely things are, and there is nothing to be done but to realize that every mark and fold left in the fabric after Lelong has revived the black lace /, evening frock to a new degree of / chic. Of silk scroll lace, this gown is made over black satin, with a rhine- stone buckle. From Jay-Thor pe. wrap at the upper right on the opposite page the first wearing is part of the character of the garment. A very new-looking frock is slightly depressing, in any case. Typical of the successful and simple trans- parent velvet frock is the one shown in the middle of this page. It is a frock to be worn bt bits eseressceccee.. oi 105 with the most carefully chosen accessories —some modern gold jewelry, beautifully de- signed, or some silver and black enamel and pearl jewelry, in case the gown is worn with silver fox furs. With this type of frock the American woman generally makes the mistake of wearing gun-metal stockings. Neutral beige stockings, worn with shoes that are a combination of black patent-leather and black reptile, of the afternoon sandal type, are much smarter for this costume. The Lelong black lace frock on this page is one of the most successful of the season. It is of black silk lace in a scroll design, draped to form fish tails in the back so that it has the irregular hem-line now so good for evening wear. The under-frock of this gown is black satin, and there is a black satin belt with a rhinestone buckle in front. This gown would be lovely worn with the Chanel ‘‘diamond”’ jewelry shown in the middle of page 103. All the accessories on pages 102 and 103 are chosen to be worn with black cos- tumes, for street, afternoon, and evening. A black velvet evening gown from Lelong has a pink satin vest show- ing ina V at one side, and pink and black pansies. The uneven hem- line is new. From Jay-Thorpe. ono ae | \ Vy W hk / V Transparent black velvet, extraor- dinarily soft and fine, has been made into this Champcommunal frock with a neck that can be worn high or in a V. Jay-Thorpe. Black, | Oak ‘el, Sutin will ea Eee C Sussil wit in

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HARPER’S BAZAR Akos one lo ( /ear ASmall Slats We are accustomed to look Rose Descat, who launched the cloche, is still making versions of the cloche that continue to be smart. Felt with applied cut pieces. to Madame Agnes for new and exciting hats. This, a fine shiny felt, has a match- ing crushed velvet crown. Models imported by BEST I gnés makes this little tight head-dress hat of fine flat velours and vivid blue king-fisher feathers that are ap- plied to the front and run up to points on the crown. The “chapeau Marianne,” long a symbol of the French Republic, is the inspiration for this Agnes hat of fine velours, with the forward movement. This satin hat, pulled close to the head from ear to ear and ending in large loops over the ears, is one of Reboux’s new close-fitting little head-dress hats.

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for OCTOBER 1927 The hats on this page were all designed to hide one eye- brow and show the better one. Reboux has made this hat of very fine brown velours. Models imported by SAKS—FIFTH AVENUE Reboux drapes this cap of vermilion felt with a black lace veil, which is tied in an enormous chou so as to com- pletely eclipse one eyebrow. Two ends tied in front, and one eyebrow showing, is the formula for many of the new small felts. This is of black felt designed by Reboux. This little “‘lapin” Reboux hat of brown velours has had many versions, but remains as smart as ever. Crossed ears hide one eyebrow only. Another version of the béret, made smart by Reboux, is this eyebrow hat of black felt. An extremely smart trim- ming is a curl of cog. /f) . { 4 _) / ae \ Bis oP hove Onl, Ly ¢; CHls —Javorile ¢* Ove row

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HARPER’S BAZAR Drawn especially for Harper's Bazar by MARY MacKINNON MRS. WOLCOTT BLAIR of Chicago, formerly Miss Ellen D. Yuille. Mr. and Mrs. Blair have been spending the past summer at Southampton, Long Island, where they were extremely popular in the younger fashionable set.

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1927 for OCTOBER ss : ( ouverneur ic : 109 MANY MANSIONS TD Sia Pheri ip CAN CM asin C- und by a _ SPERACION MORALES had been work- ing down the Coast and was returning to Monterey. He was driving a flivver which had cost him one hundred and fifty-two dollars and which had to be nursed like a baby. He was wearing his best corduroy trousers and black shirt. If blood counts for anything, Esperacion should have been driving a foreign car and wearing purple and fine linen. There was hidalgo blood in his veins. But the days when hidalgo blood had counted for much in Califor- nia, and especially in Monterey County, were long since over. Gold had been found at Sutter’s Mill, and the love of living for its own sake, together with good manners, had been crowded to the wall by greed and dishonesty. Esperacion had worked fitfully at all kinds of jobs. He had caddied at the Del Monte Golf Club. He had decapitated sardines in one of the canneries. He had once earned twentv-five dollars by pounding the ‘“ Pride of Castroville ’’ to a jelly in four rounds of unscientific fighting, and he had won cash prizes at the Salinas Rodeo for bull-dogging and for riding locoed horses. Mostly he worked on the wild steep ranches to the southward; he liked horses and cattle. He could afford to; they meant bread and butter to him, and he would have liked wine and women, if the wine hadn’t liked him too little and the women too much. He was very beautiful to look at. His skin was golden brown, his teeth flashed, and his dark eyes seemed to be made of fire and caresses. He was slender, graceful and iron-strong. Women made love to him quite openly. They couldn’t help themselves; but he hated them for it. It had been drizzling down the Coast and the adobe roads were greasy and dangerous. Es- peracion valued his neck and drove carefully. There was no hurry. He had no engagements in Monterey. Nobody was expecting him. It didn’t matter when he got there. It wouldn’t matter if he never did get there. He had neither an engagement nor even a vague plan for his own amusement upon arrival. He was simply fleeing from the wife of his most recent em- ployer. Her attentions to him had ended by making him miserable, and he had fled. She was a raw-boned woman, and she had tried to be kittenish. She had even taken to lisping in the hope of charming him. T WAS raining in the highlands and the town of Carmel was choked with fog. The Carmel hill was more dangerous than usual, and Esperacion crawled down it, keeping two of the flivver’s wheels in the gravel at the side of the macadam, and a steady pressure on the brake. The brake bands sizzled and gave off a choking, rubberoid smell. Night had fallen, and the lights of Monterey twinkled in the rain. A dozen of the older FLANAGAN ‘i ™ 7, ILLUSTRATION BY JOHN R. caddies from the golf course kept open house in a tumbling-down three-room house in the oldest part of the city, and Esperacion knew that they would make him welcome and find him something to eat and a place to sleep. He, in turn, for his pockets were unusually well- lined, would find some tactful and unobtrusive way of reimbursing them. He would send out for a couple of quarts of Scotch whisky; Johnny Alba would tune his guitar and sing. Then everybody would sing, and there would be story-telling and happiness. UT Esperacion was not to spend the night in this way. He had turned off the high- road and was making for, the house of his friends by a dubious ‘short-cut, when upon rounding a high and greasy corner, he felt the left hind wheel of the flivver give under him with a kind of gulpy squdgy sigh, and knew with a sudden cold stopping of the heart that his tired little car was about to turn over and roll down a bank. Curiously enough in that speck of time, in that interval between two ticks of a watch, he perceived on the top of the hill, to whose foot he was about to be rolled, a long, low, solid, brightly lighted important looking house which, familiar though he was with Monterey, he had never noticed before. He had not thought that his fragile little car would make such a (Continued on page 154)

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BY 4 “= Shode wad will 7 G peniiad THE DANCE BELOW i ~<—) {7 J / ' Pf / ¢ Oe ( d Sn lac es, as in CXtfe, musl we poor pale Clarlicipants C read our endless | lo the same nom Ee |) See d ) {ff - (hv otsve, Lesire, ond Peleus ? ILLUSTRATION BY HE scene is a bare-looking room in hell. The walls are a dingy gray, and on either side of a blackened door in the center of the back wall two windows give out on a monotonous landscape with perhaps a dead-black tree or two rearing up in the distance. There is another door toward the back of the right well, and right-center there is a bare table with two chairs. Down front left-center there is a stiff wooden bench. There are two other plain chairs in the room. It is about four-thirty in the afternoon. The air is very still. An unfriendly pale green light seems to haunt the faces of the actors who move more or less noiselessly 2s if wearing rubber soles. When the curtain rises, Paul Knox, lost in thought, is seated on the bench leaning forward with his chin resting on the back of his hand. On earth Paul has been a poet, and the audience guesses the fact at once by his yellow and slightly wavy hair, his melancholy blue-gray eyes, and the prematurely old expression about his face when his features are in repose. He is dressed in light gray flannel trousers; his soft white shirt is open at the throat. There is something delicately fine and yet sculptural in the chiseling of his features. John Bates stands at the center door looking out expectantly. He is a tall, thick-set, red-blooded dark man, who in life was Chief Petty Officer in the Navy; and in hell he still wears his blue uniform with a sailor’s swagger and all the high spirits of his prime thirty years. Bates, pufling on a cigaret, glances toward Knox and then back again out the door. BATES (speaking finally in a deep voice): Not a sign of any- body yet. (KNox shifts his position, but does not reply. BATES regards him for a moment and then comes to the bench and slaps him affectionately on the shoulder.) Cheer up, old man. You look as if you were waiting for a funeral, instead of your wife. What are you so glum about? Ever since you heard that your wife was coming you’ve looked worried—unhappy—as though you were afraid to see her. You were crazy about her, weren’t you? Knox: Yes, yes, of course—mad about her. I loved her too much, perhaps. I loved her more than life—more than my poetry (smiles), more than my hope of salvation—more than anything—but— Bates: But what? Knox: I never felt sure that I made her happy. And I tried hard—I did everything I could. Sometimes, maybe for just a single moment I felt that she was mine entirely, and then’a strange look would come into her eyes—as if she wished oh, I don’t know what— And I went on groping—but I never felt sure. Bates: Aw, I bet it was just your imagination. Knox: Perhaps Bates: Maybe you were too easy on her—always giving in to her. Some women like rough treatment, and when they do I believe in giving it to ’em. Rough. (BATES moves to chair nearest center emphasizing his roughness by putting his foot up on the chair seat.) KNox (smiles): No; Agnes was too sensitive for that. (Changes.) You know, another thing that worries me terribly is wondering how she is going to stand this place. It isn’t very beautiful down here. Don’t you suppose you could get some flowers—or something to brighten it up? Bates: Well, of all idiots—flowers in hell! That is a good one. (He laughs.)

SAMUEL Davis OrTIs Knox: Well, we should do something to make it sort of beauti- ful for Agnes. Bates: Say, you forget this isn’t an afternoon tea. We’re here to pay for our sins, as the Good Book says. Knox: Sins?—No; mistakes, maybe. (Smiles.) Like plant- ing turnips in a flower-bed when the seeds look alike. Bates: There you go again—flowers! Quit dreaming, can’t you? What do you want me to do? Pin a Welcome to Our Happy Home sign over the door? Knox: No; just sort of make her happy. You're so light- hearted. Maybe you can make her laugh—that helps some- times. Bates: Say, you forget I’m expecting company too. My girl will probably arrive about the same time as yours. I'll have a job myself getting her adjusted. Knox: Oh, I did forget. I’m sorry. (With a friendly smile.) But we'll have to see lots of each other just the same. I wonder which one of them will get here first. Bates: Well, you got the news about your Agnes before I heard my Aggie had kicked off, so—I don’t know. (A new thought.) Say, it’s funny our girls having mighty near the same names. KNox: Yes, isn’t it? I—I hope they like each other. Bates: They probably won’t. Women never do. Knox (looks out of the window at the grayness): I do wish there was just one beautiful sunset for her. (Sad/y.) But how do I know she would like it? I gave her sunsets upon earth and—and she cried. (Changes.) Did your Aggie love pretty things? Bates: Yes, she liked ’em all right. She— KNox (enthusiastically): Was she lovely and still—like a bird before it sings? Bates (doubtfully agreeing): Well, kinda—but not for long. (Pompously.) She sure did love me. I remember one night before the fleet shipped south— Knox: Was it moonlight—or just pale silver stars? Bates: Nah. It was dark. The dock was full of coal dust. Knox (slowly): Agnes would have to have stars. Bates: My girl Aggie didn’t want any stars—nor anything but me. She loved me like hell. Knox: I loved Agnes like—heaven. I tried to make it for her, too. Bates: Yeh, I know. Queer they don’t understand—trying don’t always work. Knox: No, I suppose not. Anyhow, I kept trying to give her all the beauty and color I could. Bates: They like the dark sometimes. Aggie liked the coal dust. She said it made things more human-like—or something to that effect. She’ll like it down here all right with me! Knox: I’m afraid my Agnes won’t. She wasn’t like that. She couldn’t have stood ugly things. That’s why she’s coming down here to-day. I wasn’t. there to show her how lovely things were. That’s why she took to drugs. This place— if there were only one beautiful thing! (His face lightens.) I know. I have a jasmine flower she gave me when we were first in love. I’ve kept it dried in a book. Anything is better than nothing. (KNox goes out, putting his pipe in his pocket.) (Bates, smiling at KNOox’s sentimentalism, sits down on the bench with his legs thrust out on it—hums. A timid knock ts heard. Bates starts up joyously—he hesitates—throws down his cigaret and steps on it, then walks (Continued on page 146)

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for OCTOBER 1927 | Bates: There’s no place to go. You're fixed. You can’t run off—anywhere—in hell! AcGneEs whispers with a ghastly ex- pression on her face: Fixed! as Knox enters bearing tray.

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HARPER’S BAZAR — a — —E —_ — —— 4 Photographs by Sherril Schell Above is a view of Villa Marina from the garden, and below a view of the garden, looking from the house—a green and golden garden where pools and statues, vistas of smooth lawn and bright flower-beds sleep beneath the sun. (bnel Al Hf aR. ers : = ited CHslate O O - -

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AR by OCTOBER 1927 gone 2 ® ine eee ‘he. Colonel Rogers’ drawing-room has the high, cool calm, the shadowed order and austerity of an Italian interior. AN ITALIAN VILLA IN SOUTHAMPTON BY MARY CASS IVING in Italy you become aware that life was meant to be graceful, easy; that proportion and simplicity are manna to the spirit and lend, besides, a certain dignity to even the most casual dwelling; that you may exercise sobriety in your tastes and régime, yet find existence full of beauty, amiability, sharp stabs of wonder, and poetic excitement. To transport this atmosphere to America and build a villa, which might have sunnily and chastely endured through the ages on the slopes of Fiesole, amid the windy dunes of Long Island’s south shore is a sleight-of-hand performance fraught with amusing and charming possibilities. Colonel H. H. Rogers’ house at Southampton represents this feat. It stands poised at the very edge of the yellow sands, its colored fagade, campanile, and agreeable symmetry more than reminiscent of some villa sitting among Tuscan lanes and olive orchards. Behind it lies a green and golden garden, where pools and statues, vistas of smooth lawn and bright flower- beds sleep beneath the sun, the scented and humming peace languorously happy—yet nostalgic, saying without words that summer here reclines in lovely abandon but must presently fold her veils and flit silently away. Leave this sylvan retreat and walk through the house on to the terrace that faces the sea and you will have the swiftest of dramatic contrasts. The spare dune grass blows at your feet; CANFIELD the beach stretches interminably to right and left; below, the Atlantic pounds hugely, miles upon miles of its foamy restless- ness tumbling in from the horizon. There is nothing but this turbulent, blue wilderness between you and Spain. You turn away from the natural power before you and, within the villa, there is the high, cool calm, the shadowed order and austerity of an Italian interior. You catch the plain lines and dark patine of ancient wooden furniture, the red glow of tiled floors, the faded, ambiguous tones of a tapestry hung against tinted plaster walls. Through arched doorways, vou have glimpses of other rooms, all harmonious, all in the same taste. You marvel a little. You grow analytical. You think: ‘*We Americans are dramatists. Our instinct for décor is surprising. Our imagination, starved by a commercial and mechanical scheme of things, escapes into these settings which we assemble. We wander through the centuries, ponder a little, make a choice and produce a room or a house which is persuasive and satisfactory, which amazingly understands and recaptures the soul of a period. These are illusions we deliberately create, like the child with its mud-pie castle or the painter making magic with lead colors and a square of canvas. We are buc- caneers, perhaps; but, though derelict in this compassless pres- ent, we have the wit to be in love with the past; and we express ourselves, our curiosity and hunger and passion, like artists.”

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HARPER’S BAZAR Sherril Schell ree Ship .. Miah a room hes a special | moa vi la hy the sea

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for OCTOBER 1927 | | ! 1 ee ear 2 tear ‘<i 3 [ f, df ) . le C. rea v ast CY 00901a ; A Ta? ‘ ; —) ‘7) : : . Lf + Iiius two heen rooms are in Crlonel Kogers | in rsthcernpton, of? =e

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116 BY HARPER’S BAZAR 7) ours Dromfield; ‘Even as a very old woman she treated herself as if she had been a great stage beauty.” THE CAT THAT LIVED AT THE RITZ And ils sinisler C i6nificance im ake, P i a ( itaiaiied Se | Y THE time I came to know her, she was an old, old woman, with a face that was lined and white, with a curious, transparent whiteness, as if it were illuminated from within. It was a purely physical illumi- nation—I mean that her withered cheeks had a delicate pinkness, as if there were a light behind them—for there was nothing spiritual about Miss Wamrop; she was as dry as a bone. And it was a long time before I grew suspicious of the pinkness and, pressing my suspicions, convinced myself that it was purely artificial, All her life she took the most ex- quisite and painstaking care of her skin. Her toilet, so her maid, who is now my wife’s maid and the wife of my maitre d’hétel, told me, often took as long as two hours. Even as a very old woman, she treated herself as care- fully as if she had been a great stage beauty, whose duty it was to guard the treasure God had given her. Yet she had never been a beauty, and certainly when I knew her she could make no claims in that direction. Her nose was too thin, her temples too pinched and her mouth too small and cold; but she did have the look which one expects of a lady. She took pride in that look of breeding, and in the end it helped her more than all her money to gain those things which she valued to the exclusion of friendship, of blood relation, of all human wrath. She thought it perfectly cor- rect for a lady to use the aid of rouge, but completely vulgar to use it in such a way that it might be detected. The odd thing was how she came by that queer, pinched, ladylike look, for one grand- father had been a wholesale butcher in Brook- lyn, and another had been a ship chandler on as well. ILLUSTRATED BY SACH DE Paris West Street in New York. It was the butcher who laid the foundations of the great fortune which eventually descended to her alone. I made her acquaintance through the Marquis of Vestiglione, a shabby, threadbare little man, whose chief claim to celebrity lay in the fact that he had been the husband of a Second Empire beauty, who married him be- cause she needed a kind of human screen who would condone her scandalous behavior in exchange for the notice that came to him in the réle of consort to a famous beauty. When she died, he dropped from the world, com- pletely forgotten, because he was penniless, a cuckold nonentity, and a bore. One of his ways of eking out a living was to go about the country picking up bits of antique furniture, which he sold to shops, or through the medium of one or two ancient friends of his faithless wife. My father collected porcelaine de Saxe, and so he came to know the little man. It was after my father’s death that I received a note from him, written in the most mincing and servile fashion, in a flourishing handwriting, saying that a friend of his, a Miss Savina Wamrop (an American lady who had lived in Paris so long that she was really French), had an interest in porcelaine de Saxe, and had heard of my father’s collection. She was very rich, he added, and in case I cared to dispose of the collection I might be able to sell it to her at an excellent price. “TI believe,” he added, “that I am the person to aid you, as I have had some experi- ence as a connoisseur of these things’’ (he care- fully avoided using so vulgar a term as dealer), “and would know the value of your collection. The commission might be arranged later. lhe = ’ / avie ad “Miss Wamrop, knowing your position in the world, is eager that it should not be simply a sordid commercial affair. Having lived so long among us, she understands the delicacies of the affair. Therefore, she asks if you ould care to join us at tea on Thursday. She lives at the Ritz. I will be waiting for you in the hall at five on the Place Vendéme side.” I confess that it struck me as odd that I had never encountered a lady who had lived so long in Paris and, according to Vestiglione, was rich, and had such a respect for the ameni- ties of the best society. My mother was American, and in my youth we had many Americans always in the house. The name, however, did seem familiar, and its familiarity seemed to increase as the day of the tea drew near. It began after a time to torment me, and then in the middle of the night it came to me where I had seen it. It was one of those names which appear regularly in the social columns of the Paris Herald. While my mother was still alive, the columns had been a source of amusement to us. Day after day, the same names appeared, a list of names which always seemed to be in a round of gaiety, going from one entertainment to another, to three or four in the same day. We got to know all the names by heart, though we never met any of the people. It was a strange world of my mother’s country-people that seemed to exist in a vacuum. Each one of them seemed to possess a press agent. One of the names had been that of Miss Savina Wamrop. We remembered it because it was so odd. I couldn’t recollect having seen it lately—once it had appeared every day. The next morning I picked up the Herald, and there miraculously

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for OCTOBER 1927 Tx. “Watching Miss Wamrop I felt an extraordinary dislike taking possession of me. It was not so strong as my loathing for Vestiglione, and of a quite different sort.” I found it at once: ‘Among those present at the unusually brilliant ball and entertainment given last night at the Ritz for the Benefit of Russian Orphans in the Crimea, were the Marquis de Vestiglione and Miss Savina Wamrop.” HE old man in a slightly shabby cutaway met me just inside the revolving doors. He was all bows and smiles and servility; in short, he was most offensive, as I had always re- membered him. He was one of those wretched creatures who exist only in relation to others more important. I fancy he was impressed in this case by my father’s French title and my mother’s American wealth. He was nervous about the bargain over the porcelain. He rubbed together his old hands, slightly dirty about the nails, and commented on the cold. ‘Miss Wamrop is waiting for us,” he added. ‘“ You will find her a charming person.” It was midwinter, and every table was filled. The crowd at the Ritz on such occasions is as weird a collection as it is possible to find anywhere in the world—American million- aires, demi-mondaines, German Jews speaking English in the hope that they will be mis- taken for Americans, English titles, commercial travelers, Argentine cattle kings, gigolos, Italian ‘‘ princes” who are blackmailers, Ameri- can college girls ‘“‘seeing life,” actresses, Spanish dukes—indeed it is possible to find there any sort of creature. Following my shabby Marquis through the mob, I mentally picked out an old lady sitting by a pillar, who I was certain was Miss 117 Wamrop. She was large and commanding, with a dyed red wig, huge diamond earrings, and a very evil mouth. ie pena I told myself, ‘“‘must be Miss Wam- rop. This is what American women of the generation turn into when they have, as my friend says, lived among us for so long.” I made ready to bow and seat myself, but we passed the diamonds and red wig; I was wrong. A second later, Vestiglione halted ab- ruptly before an old lady whom I should never have noticed, and bowing said, ‘This is Mees Wamrop. May I present the Prince de S—_>” He said it in English, but she replied at once in French of the most perfect and ad- mirable accent, saying, (Continued on page 130) ee

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HARPER’S BAZAKk | | ; | | et” DEMEYER* \ “ee, MISS GENEVIEVE CARPENTER the lovely daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Alden Carpenter, of Chicago. Miss Carpenter recently went around the world, and spent last spring in Paris, and the summer at her parents’ farm in Vermont. Her father is the eminent composer, whose ballets have been produced at the Metropolitan Opera House in New York.

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A k for OCTOBER 1927 119 Drawing by Katharine Sturge Stripped of all her fluffy accessories, just what is a débutante ? DEBTS AND DEBUTANTES (A Sava a oe the hoontiioniine cms lhal musl he re an | a lil waidebiea O1lles £ sbul / EBUTS have been the business of my life. From the moment [left the peram- bulator, I was treated by my parents as that most delicate and perplexing of human organisms—the raw material of a débutante, a Lily Bart in the larva state. The family re- sources held out just long enough to see me successfully launched in society—but not long enough to see me safely married. Soon after my début, I found myself in the position of a heroine whose father has lost his money. That’s all very romantic—in stories. In life, the situation is far from pretty, when you are young and have been brought up to consider yourself charmingly precious and _ extrava- gantly useless. Dancing all night, sleeping far into the day—I had thought that would prove my lot. And here I must turn to and find a job! Only one thing I could do—capitalize in a genteel way my knowledge of the seventh circle of the social world. Of course, for a time I groped about uncertainly. People pitied me and that helped. Charity presented me with my first opportunity. For several years I promoted concerts for the benefit both of the worthy poor and of myself. After a time, the first rush of kindly generosity slowed down, the size of my friends’ checks dwindled. Then I accepted a position with a big new hotel that craved a smart guest-list. I occupied a suite in the place and cried it up tactfully to my in- fluential acquaintances. My efforts satisfied the management, but not myself. My status was too blatantly commercial, too much like that of a barker in a side-show. So I gave up my suite and my lavish salary and started a social secretariat, which I have maintained ever BY SYDNEY BOTHWELL since. I had found my métier at last, my life- work. A born diplomat, I have achieved a sane, if none too heroic, happiness in my career. A large proportion of my polite chores as social secretary has to do with débutantes. I am constantly called upon to oversee their coming-out parties and to direct their later campaigns; even, in some cases, piloting them to the discreet haven of marriage. That last duty requires patience and skill; for the man must have wealth and acceptable ancestry. Not many years ago a girl from an ordinary American home in a Montana mining town became, almost overnight, one of the most popular Eastern débutantes for a season. Per- haps any American girl of average training, intelligence and resources could do as well in society. And just possibly, if she were success- ful, she would decide, as this Montana girl decided, that the business of being a débutante was really a great bore and not at all worth the trouble. HE girl I mention—Alice Swinton McGovern let us call her—was one of many whose débuts have been made under my professional direction. When her mother’s sister first came to me to ask my assistance, I doubted the ad- visability of accepting the commission. The aunt occupied, it was true, a high and unques- tioned social position, but her niece was a total outsider. If Alice failed, the dishonor would fall largely upon me; and at that stage in the life of my social secretariat, a failure of such pro- portions might easily have proved fatal. Alice’s history was well known to me. McGovern had filled the humble post of carriage-man in the family of his future wife. When the pair eloped, the newspapers outdid themselves in sentimental head-lines; but young Mrs. McGovern’s parents cut her off com- pletely, and the ex-carriage-man was forced to find a job. The couple settled in Montana, where he obtained a position with a mining company. That was the end of them so far as the interest of society was concerned until the aunt let it be known that she wished to reinstate their daughter in the ranks of the chosen. & a’ matter of fact, Alice did not come straight from the graduating exercises of her home-town high-school to the spotlight of a social début. Her aunt had given her a year in an exclusive Eastern school, and the transfor- mation which this year had worked was, according to the lady, nothing less than miraculous. The least I could do, considering the impor- tance of the aunt, was to see the girl before refusing to take her up. I met her at tea one afternoon and to my surprise I found her charming. She had learned well the conven- tional finishing-school lessons of grace and poise; more than that, she possessed a natural vivacity and freshness that made her a most unusual and appealing person. It was immediately evident to me that her success as a débutante was assured. My prophecy proved true. In the weeks after her début, which I managed, she received invita- tions to every débutante event of importance, turned down several proposals, and was voted into the Junior League. Even the most severe judges—those dour ultra-critical dowagers who, armed with lorgnettes, line the walls at coming- out parties—conceded (Continued on page 186)

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BY LR chard SL i, — 5ST nes a ST HARPER’S BAZAR levirie: L MA qe CAA t How beautiful and romantic he looked with all those books around him.” THE MENDER OF BROKEN HEARTS ( Io | thal lhe om /( Iai lo om 2 g = IC hay lo Cake “S| lo the Qe /( No a & S| IDELIA CONVERSE passed through the hushed, aristocratic portals of her hotel near the Place de la Concorde, and ste ppe 1 out into the delicate radiance of the Paris morning; a May morning poignant with arbling gaily with the birdlike French tongue—a music she had not heard since her romanti girlhood when, i she used to get distinguished freshness and w as she Was coing now, so olten ILLUSTRATION BY WALLACE up early to wander through the strange old haunted streets, buying spring flowers from the quaint littlke women whose stalls made vivid the street corners, listexing to the immemorial cries of pedlers, at once so curiously sad and gay, dreaming on bridges above the Seine, flowing there like Eternity, her eves on Notre Dame, veiled in opal, and all the multitudinous roofs and towers whose colors were only to be MorGAN found on the palette of Time: then, suddenly, caught out of her old-world reverie by the friendly smell of coffee and bread fresh from the oven, wafted to her from companionable cafés, brisk with cheerful morning voices and a sense of blithe preparation for the new day. As she stepped lightly along on this particular May morning, there were those, seeing her go by, who took her for a part of the morning, and

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OCTOBER 1927 f or many a young Frenchman, with eyes inured to charming women, gave her more than a passing thought. Yet she was no longer a girl, not perhaps even a very young woman, though as to that delicate question of her age it would have taken a very experienced authority to pro- nounce. Close observers might have noted a touch of gray in the bronze of her thick hair, and a shadow of experience in her luminous hazel eyes that, however, had evidently been born too laughing readily to reveal any secrets of the heart beneath them. Evidently there were deep springs of morning in that heart which, continually welling up into her face, masked it with radiance alike against Time and the most skilled savant of feminine chronology. Also, as a poet friend of hers had said, she had the figure of a marble nymph in an old garden. Actually, she was one of those fortunate women whose age concerns neither themselves nor any- one else. So let us leave her for the moment as she sweeps gaily along the rue St. Honoré, eager as a girl on a love-tryst, to kiss with | her eyes the unforgotten facades of the | Louvre and generally to renew that old love-affair with Paris, which, as we said, || had suffered interruption for it really || doesn’t matter how many years. And turn we, as the old story-tellers say, to the other bank of the Seine, to the Quarter known as Latin, and give our || attention to another figure who, at about the same moment that Fidelia Converse crossed the portals of her hotel in the Place de la Concorde, had crossed the portals of his similarly distinguished lodging in the neighborhood of the Luxembourg Gardens. TALL, lean figure of a man, Hilary | Dalkeith first impressed one with his height, which cannot have been much || under six-foot three, and his austere, soldierly bearing. The old woman from whom he bought an English paper at a kiosk on the rue de Vaugirard—asking for it in French with what was surely a slight Scotch accent—taking him in unerringly with her experienced old French eyes, noted an unusual chivalry in his manner; noted, too, the grave, kindly gaze of the granite-blue eyes—the eyes, though she didn’t know that, of a Highland Scot—coming with a startling lightness of contrast out of his tanned olive skin; noted, too, his vigorous black hair splashed with locks of white, and, as he swung lithely on his way, she looked after him and noted something lonely and wistful about his strong figure, something hinted at, too, in his eyes, in which the dreamer and the fighter lived curiously together. She shook her wise old head. A sad, strong gentleman, she said to herself, as she turned to hand a copy of Le Matin to a compatriot, and the words /rislesse de l'amour came to her withered lips as he dis- appeared in the direction of the Boulevard Saint Michel, where was a café at which he was accustomed to take his coffee and rolls to the accompaniment of his morning paper and the beautiful facades and Renaissance gardens of Marie de Médici’s palace. His coffee and rolls and his newspaper finally disposed of, Hilary took out his pipe, medita- tively filled it and lit it, and smoked quietly as he gazed out on the horse-chestnuts gloriously green and crowded with their cones of wexen blossoms. Yes, the old woman was right. Though, perhaps, Hilary Dalkeith was much too Scotch to admit it even to himself, he had not been able quite to prevent the escape of some sorrow—tristesse de l’amour, was it?— from his heart into his eyes. At length, his pipe smoked out, he knocked out the ashes, replaced it in his pocket, called for his addition, and rose, standing still a mo- ment and glancing around as if pondering in which direction to walk, with that wistful look of a heron turning its head from left to right before it takes flight across a marsh. It seemed evident from his attitude that he had no defi- nite purpose for his morning, but that time was his own and that he was rather wearily at a loss what to do with it. Indeed, a similar hesitation beset him each morning, and it usu- ally ended, as now, by his swinging down the Boulevard past the lovely wreckage of Cluny, on to the Quai des Grands Augustins, with the bookstalls, the Seine, and the towers of Notre Dame. After loitering a while with an old bouguiniste of his acquaintance at the cor- ner of the Pont Neuf, he crossed that historic bridge, saluted Henri Quatre riding there gal- lantly in bronze, and presently found himself in the maze of ancient streets where so much of the history of France was made, and where the dark roots of her past are everywhere visible. Here somewhere off the royal rue St. Denis, he fell in with a pretty little adventure. Miles By CHaRLoTTeE BECKER Ts Yet it’s not half so far, my dear, very far away to Greece, And far to Timbuctoo, As just from me to you. Since if you ever got to them You’d see what was to see— But though you’re in here every day You never could know me. Ah, strange it is, what you and I Must miss by mile on mile, And, hurt or happy, never may Come nearer than a smile! Suddenly in one of the darkest corners under the shadow of a deep, ancient gateway, Hilary Dalkeith came upon a flower-stall that made such a blaze of blue and gold—daffodils and forget-me-nots solidly massed side by side— that he involuntarily stopped in front of it. As he did so, he noticed that another gold was there too—the bright gold head of a girl face down among the flowers. And as he looked, he saw that her young shoulders were shaken with sobs. With instinctive pity he laid his hand on the beautiful yellow hair. “My poor child!” he said. ‘What is the matter?” Startled, the girl raised her head and looked at him with eyes bluer even than her own forget-me-nots, but, as though the very touch of pity overcame her, she bowed her head again with a gasping cry and sobbed as though her heart would break. No one had marked her young sorrow but he, and as he waited for the fit to pass, he stroked her hair again and said little soothing words in that French of his with the Scotch accent. HEN suddenly she controlled herself, and brushing away her tears, with a brave attempt at laughter, she sat erect and looked at him, trying to assume a businesslike air. “ Monsieur désire?”’ she asked. “My poor child,” he repeated, ‘what is the matter?” But perhaps it was that she misunderstood his hand on her hair, and she but repeated: “ Monsieur désire?”’ Doubtless this tall stranger meant kindly enough yet it was evident that she meant | 121 to keep the secret of her tears in her own still- heaving bosom; and for a third time she asked: “* Monsieur désire?” At all events, the April storm was over, and Hilary was left with nothing to do but to buy a bunch of her forget-me-nots and pass on his way, pondering on the sorrow of human hearts. Perhaps, after all, it was only some cruel step- mother, though as the old news-vender would have said, it looked very much like (ristesse de amour; and, as Hilary went along, he found himself humming a song of his native land: Wi?’ lightsome heart I pu’d a rose Upon its thorny tree; But my fause luver staw my rose, And left the thorn wi’ me. This was still humming in his mind when he came to the corner of a street so narrow and dark that it seemed more like a crevice in a rock than a street. Grim, fortress-like walls with small windows barred with rusty iron, and here and there a forbidding doorway, rose high on each side, leaning so close | together near the top as almost to shut out the sky. Hilary had been in many | dark and dangerous corners of the earth, | but seldom had he encountered a more | sinister thoroughfare—if thoroughfare it || might be called, for it was too narrow for | vehicles and at the its only inhabitants several evil- looking cats that at his approach vanished up side passages into deeper gloom. ny HE proceeded, the street suddenly turned at right-angles, and at the || angle the masonry of the building at his left was rounded like a medieval tower. In it was a low, deep doorway of very ancient stone, with traces of ornament and armorial bearings above its lintel. De- termining to explore it, Dalkeith found himself in a passage of such blackness that he involuntarily stretched his hands before him to feel the way. ‘Then came a faint glimmer of light from a small, barred window revealing a winding stone staircase. He had been right. The building was an old circular tower. Cautiously he mounted’ the old worn steps, and, as he ascended, it grew lighter, and when he reached the top of the first flizht he found himself on a little landing and face to face with a well-kept oaken door on which a small brass plate, carefully polished, made a point of brightness in the gloom. It Some one actually lived Perhaps indeed—such are the surprises of Paris—behind this door were chambers of elegant comfort, groined ceilings and carved fireplaces, the vestiges of some nobleman’s /dfel. But the stairway wound still upward, and Hilary followed it up its six flights, each landing having a door and a little brass plate like the rest, till he came to the top where the landing was broader and lighter. And, as before, he found a well-kept door, with its brass plate. This time, how- ever, it bore no name, but this curious in- scription instead. Kaccommodeur des Cours Cassés. Dalkeith knew Paris to be a city of strange trades, a city, too, in which every broken thing found some one whose business it was to mend it; but—A Mender of Broken Hearts! What could it mean? A vision of that little girl sobbing among her flowers suddenly flashed across his mind. He was still carrying her forget-me-nots, poor child! There was a little brass knocker above the plate. Almost without thinking, he raised it and knocked three times. The door opened instantly, and he passed inside. It had been closed (Continued on page 192) moment seemed to be merely bore a name. in this strange place. brass

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T ) BY ( Jesse CY ylich THE NOBLE LORD onlinuind lhe spritelv ‘ merican Dd we Cull e J C vernlure oO ali 4 no Sil — a 5 a Rts ILLUSTRATED BY W. Emerton Heityu A BRIEF REVIEW OF PART ONE: HARLIE WHIFFEN was really a very nice boy until he became Lord Chaw- borough. He first came to this country at the tender age of twenty or thereabouts, fresh from the university and bearing a letter of introduction to one of the wealthiest women in New York. Mrs. Caroline Clifton proved to be a de- lightfully warm-hearted old lady, though extremely eccentric and opinionated, and she not only took the English fledgling under her wing and gave him quarters in her spacious New York mansion, but, through the use of her magic name, he soon met every one that was any one—socially and artistically speaking. For Charlie Whiffen was a dauber in landscapes, and had been drawn to America, as so many impecunious Europeans are, by tales of our fabulously rich citizens with a penchant for buying anything with a foreign label. But, unfortunately for Charlie, all the pull in the world couldn’t sell his canvases, and when Aunt Caroline’s interest in him began to wane, he realized that it was highly imperative to find a lucrative job. Meanwhile, Charlie had made several friends. Gregory and Carol, the young grandchildren of Mrs. Clifton, liked him; Dave, the “poor rela- tion’ and a struggling lawyer—and incidental] the narrator of this tale—tried valiantly to give him advice, sell his pictures, and find him som« sort of work. Also, Clara Heming, a wealthy widow with a mania for the arts, took him up and dropped him—after his exhibition was a failure. Finally, when every one was wonder- ing just what to do for Charlie, he sailed un- expectedly for Europe, as a private tutor in some nouveau riche American family. Nothing was heard of him for four years and then the much sought-after Lord Chaw- borough arrived in New York from a gay week- end at Newport, a polished debonair man of the world. And what a contrast to the shy, ruddy-cheeked lad that had been Charlie Whiffen! But the meager Whiffen purse was still the same, in fact more meager, now that there was a title to be somewhat lived up to. So Aunt Caroline’s hospitality and Dave's counsel were eagerly sought again. Amiable Dave threw open his office to him and put his stenographer at the new lord’s disposal, secretly a little amused at the meta- morphosis of his young friend, and a little AND a Q / —_— : annoyed at his newly acquired patronizing manner. Aunt Caro- line was distant; she now had the terrible premonition that possibly Charlie was after her granddaugh- ter Carol’s hand to recoup his inadequate finances. No doubt he had heard of her great wealth as well as her marvelous beauty. But with Carol away in boarding- school, her fears were allayed for the moment, and only after Charlie boldly asked to resume his old quarters in her town house did she grudgingly offer him her hospitality. He promptly accepted, and she, as promptly, be- took herself to one of her numerous country estates, One night, in a burst of alcoholic confidence, Charlie told Dave of the girl back home who was as poor as he and whom he had had to give up, as he must marry American riches. Dave immediately suggested Clara Heming, who was wealthier than ever, but Charlie decided to hold the matter under advisement, as he had other candidates to consider. Mrs. Heming, however, saw herself clearly as a countess, took the initiative and made rapid progress, to the infinite amusement of old Aunt Caroline. PART Two EFORE proceeding with Lord Chaw- borough’s international marriage problem and the unexpected circumstances which in- jected our little Carol into it after all, I must mention a meeting between my aunt and the earl, because that was what caused the trouble, producing another of those unfortunate inter- national misunderstandings. It was early in November and Aunt Caroline was still clinging to the country, but she had “opened”? the town house by this time. The decorators had finished their job, the summer coverings had been removed, and the full staff of servants were performing their daily domestic ritual, all of which made it far more convenient for the Earl of Marrow. His hostess had been there a number of times when called to town to attend various board meetings or business concerning the Inter- dependence Foundation, but had never hap- pened to encounter her guest because he was now so frequently the guest of others, who HARPER’S BAZAR “ Mrs. Heming was there to meet Charlie, too.” appreciated such opportunities better than my aunt and her conservative set. It was as his social secretary that my Miss Judson had been working overtime. It required a good deal of my time, too, because, you see, he had done me the honor of reappointing me his social consultant, an office to which, on his previous visit, I had elected myself, you may recall. I had to tell him which invitations to accept and which to decline. At first he had wanted to accept them all. There was nothing exclusive about Charlie. He did not take our social distinctions nearly as seriously as do the dear New Yorkers who make them. He said he didn’t give a hang how new or vulgar his would-be hostesses were, provided that their providers had money enough to pay whacking big prices for old masters (or, perhaps, for new earls, when there were daughters in the family). This nobleman offered a delightfully democratic example to our democracy. Well then, upon a clear and bracing Novem- ber afternoon, Charlic, impeccably adorned in one of his smart morning suits, so called, I suppose, because we wear them in the after- noon, crowned with a silk hat and sceptered with a Brigg’s walking-stick, came sauntering forth from his Manhattan home with the leisurely manner of one who had not a care in the world. A car drew up at the curb and my aunt descended heavily, assisted by her chauffeur. She never lugged a footman around. She did not believe in “‘conspicuous waste” or “honorific display.” At least, she thought she didn’t. She did not care to tell the world how rich she was. Besidés, the world knew it. Turning from the car, she beheld Charlie hastening to greet her. ‘“ A-oh, how do you do, Mrs. Clifton? I say, isn’t this jolly!” He held both hat and stick in his left hand and gave her his right. It was the first meeting between

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for OCTOBER 1927 123 — “It was the first time they had met since he be came an earl and she became a grown-up girl.” guest and hostess since Charlie had moved in, *‘ Do you know, I really feel rather as though I have “done something” for him. A dinner at d it proved rather embarrassing to both, owed you an apology.” least. (It was quite possible that one of my because each suddenly felt guilty of neglecting “Really? Why?” aunt’s dinners would have bored him. But the other. “T planned several times to run out to your — she did not know that.) ‘Do come in,”’ he said enthusiastically, not place for a week-end. Truly I did. But some- ‘And I’m starting day after to-morrow on realizing how it sounded, and politely accom- thing always prevented. You understand how’ my lecture tour. A frightful bore, but you panied her to the door. ‘“Isn’t this jolly!” it is, I’m sure.” know how it is.. So I may not see you again. ‘Thank you so much,” said my aunt. “I’ve My aunt assured him that she understood It’s been jolly staying here. You're always so merely run in for the night. Please don’t stop. how it was. She was relieved to find himonthe kind to me.” I'm sure you're engaged.” defensive, for she had felt rather apologetic She let him finish without any kindly in- But Charlie went as far as the hall with her. herself. She realized now that she ought to terruption. I had often (Continued on page 162)

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HARPER’S BAZAR SMART SHOES FOR SMART OCCASIONS | a. i¢ ¢q? oF C ( he /( i 5 @ uropean }( oma }( eaVvs lhe ~~ . °. ( upes Pf oo : es 5 ‘ P | , as thes PS eo dea | a Shoe Mevdele BY MARJORIE HOWARD HE best French shoemakers, like the best French milliners, are not to be hurried in getting out their new models. Ignoring the claims and clamors of shoe manu- facturers the world over, they persist in waiting until the fall to bring out their winter models, and till the spring to launch their summer styles. So, instead of waiting until the latest creations are available, I thought it would be more interesting to send you sketches and descriptions of the types of shoes actually worn at the moment by the best-dressed women of the French capital; showing in each case not only the shoe itself but the sort of gown worn with it, and the sort of occasion at which it is worn. I have had my eyes glued to the ground all through the events of the Paris season, with Harper’s Bazar in mind. These pages are the result of keeping my eye on the ball— of the foot, of course. They represent a minimum shoe-wardrobe, for the really smart woman invariably has a passion for footgear and her variations of these essential types would be infinite. I have chosen, then, with due regard for as much novelty as possible, a typical shoe for golf, for the country, for the morning in town, for the afternoon in town, for dinner, for dancing, for wear with the pajama, and with the robe d’intérieur. Wherever I go, I find the smart woman playing golf in the most reasonable and practi- cal of golf clothes. Her favorite shoe seems to be some version of the brogue; and the one sketched is a little newer than the so-called “Prince of Wales” model. The serious player seems to like the open effect across her instep; but not being a golfer myself, I cannot enlarge upon its advantages. When she has finished playing, the smart golfer changes into a white buckskin and tan-calf shoe that completes her sensible costume. These shoes have been the HELLSTERN ™ DUCERF ™ SCAVINI Smart European women prefer an open golf shoe like this one of light brown calf laced with heavy cord. DUCERI SCAVINI The modified ox- ford is for smart daytime excellent wear. Of brown lizard and match- ing brown kid. For “spectator sports’? and resort wear a_ shoe of white antelope, and perf rat d kid may be worn. brown The combination of black lizard and patent-leather is effective for a san- dal for lunch and for afternoon wear. smartest with all types of so-called sports clothes worn in the country for several seasons and their vogue shows no signs of diminishing. The model sketched has a little variation in the wide instep strap but the type is precisely the same. Occasionally the white buckskin is changed to a pale brown, especially when the foot is of goodly proportions, for this shoe does nothing to make it appear smaller than it is, rather the contrary. This, of course, is a country shoe and would never be seen in town. A “‘tailleur” type which is gaining in popu- larity is the modified oxford, such as the model from Hellstern sketched. Here is a good town shoe, especially for pedestrians. The shape has been made much more becoming to the ankle by cutting the sides down in a shallower line and it holds the foot splendidly for walking. This type will be worn in town in the fall with all sorts of morning costumes, sometimes in some shades of brown kid and brown lizard, and sometimes in black, depend- ing on the color of the costume itself. With afternoon dress, as one sees it lunching at the Ritz and Ciro’s and at tea in private houses, the delicate sandal of simple shape but exquisite workmanship seems the smartest choice. During the summer season, this sandal was usually in some shade of beige, or some- times in black with beige trimming; but with autumn day-costumes, which promise to be dark in the large majority of cases, I think we shall find that it will be entirely black. The sandal from Hellstern is in a combination of black lizard and patent leather giving a nice contrast in surfaces, with an intricate arrange- ment of delicate strapping. When it comes to evening dress, we find a rivalry between the slipper and the sandal. Until very recently the sandal had it decidedly; but at several of the smartest events of the i SS \ SNS HELLSTER

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OCTOBER 1927 for past season, 1 have noticed that the evening slipper with a large square buckle has returned to favor. I am delighted, as I predicted this in the magazine last May. The foot looks lovely in a simple slipper with a well-set buckie, and, for anything but the Charleston, it is a perfectly comfortable shoe. I have seen it very often in some sort of small-patterned lamé, more often in gold than in silver. This is new, for only last spring I reported that silver was more often seen than gold. I have also noted some in gilded and a few in silvered leather, but I cannot think them as elegant as the lamé ones. Satin, though less worn than lamé at the Parisian events, cannot be ignored. While it is usually in some shade of beige or in black, a few women choose a color to match their gowns. There is something just a little monotonous about matching slippers, if the gown be of a decided color; but occasionally I have seen it look very well. A very dark mid- night-blue chiffon frock from Yteb, worn with a matching satin slipper and square diamond Mules of fine kid, in beige, gray, or pale rose, are lined with matching dyed ermine, rolled com- fortably over at the instep. Mrs. Cole Porter this white satin evening san- dal, made with two straps and buckles, with a white gown. Silver and gold, small-patterned lamé, with a silver strap and heel and strass buckle. A lv pe wears much worn. DUCERF ™“ ne —> SCAVINI ~ For dinner wear a slipper of dark satin with a large buckle of square brilliants surrounded by strass has been revived. buckle, looked lovely; and a gray chiffon frock was exquisitely completed by a gray satin slipper with big diamond buckle. In general, we might say that the slipper and buckle type, whether of satin or small-patterned lamé, is the ideal complement of what is called the “dinner” gown. For dancing, the sandal is still an excellent choice, as it never slips off at the heel. Eve- ning sandals of the moment are simple but very delicate and lovely. Their straps are narrow and fine and their jeweled ornaments are re- strained and usually small in size. are illustrated. One is in a new small-pat- terned lamé from Hellstern, combined with gold or silver cloth, or gilded or silvered leather, as you prefer. The other is a satin sandal favored by Mrs. Cole Porter, who wears it in white with two small prettily placed diamond buckles. Several important women of Parisian society have their own distinctive type of footgear. Lady Mendl, for example, very often wears in the evening the type that we call a “Colonial” with a tongue and important buckle mounting well up on the instep. The Comtesse de Ségur (Mlle. Cécile Sorel) wore for years a version of the classic cothurn in satin, laced Two types across the instep and around the ankle with matching ribbons. Madame Sert, the wife of the great (Concluded on page 138) with the pa jama 1s this particularly 7 oO wear amusing Soleless slipper of cloth of gold slipped into a clog of black satin.

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HARPER’S BAZAR

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128 —— . BY C /Vraink HARPER’S BAZAR » Wl) revlon : ——S= orem eo fat cee TT a [see fo LONDONERS REMAIN LONDONERS / ‘ +) : Q ear () ° (3 [. ( oncerning ( vera m thie SL Svitish (Capital A. ooks, pe a f, . a a > lhe Cearing °( lj of a -— Street WoopcuT BY BOUT this time of year, Londoners always begin to talk about music, and to say how badly off London is in the matter of concerts, opera, and musical recitals. They proclaim New York as far superior in matters of this kind, and tell tales of the marvelous performances to be seen and heard in all other cities whatsoever. It is not for me to deny the truth of all this, for no music-lover could be content with London as a musical center. But Londoners do not migrate. They remain Londoners. Nevertheless, they com- plain—because they are Londoners. Nor do they confine their comp aints to London. They go on to demonstrate other defects in civilization. Mr. Osbert Sitwell, for example, has just announced that opera is absurd, in any case, but that if we are to have opera in England at all it can only become popular when the English public realizes that opera has nothing to do with art. He ex- aggerates—deliberately. His announcement was made in the course of a debate, and in debates much is said in the hope that it will annoy (a) the other speaker, and (b) the audience. But although exaggerated, what Mr. Sitwell said has its sad truth. Opera, as regarded by intellectuals, is clearly absurd; and the English—I admit it—are not, and have never been, especially interested in art. All the same, they have produced a few artists. I can remember, as an instance of the absurdity of opera, hearing a tenor bawling out at the top of his voice the exclamation: “She has lost her situation!’’ and even in Char- pentier’s “Louise” it is a little ridiculous when the old dame enters singing “‘ The soup!” But with all its faults opera is a very old and, in my experience, a very enjoyable, form of art, and there is no reason why we should be highbrow-beaten out of our love for it. Nor shall we be. Sir Thomas Beecham, who washed his hands of the English a few months back, has relented, and he now speaks promisingly of a wonderful new scheme, to take effect shortly, which will assure permanent opera and orchestral concerts for London. More than this, that great showman, Mr. Cochran, having ob- Fiske Boypb tained the necessary license, now says that he will present Chaliapin at the Albert Hall in grand opera. Sir Henry Wood’s Promenade Concerts are being given this year under the auspices of the British Broadcasting Corporation. And the British National Opera Company has been similarly subsidized by the B. B. C. These two last items are particularly interesting, because they show that the British Government (which controls the B. B. C.) is not quite so indifferent to the arts as its official declarations would suggest. Musical and theatrical enthusiasts have long bellowed for State subsidies. Now they are getting them. But is the fact avowed? Not so. We have advanced one further step toward the Socialist State of the future. The public, which pays ten shillings a year per wireless license, is by means of this license fee, paying for a grand subsidy of the arts. Concerts and opera will shortly be within the command of all. And the deed has been done so quietly, while the sub- sidy fans were all attacking elsewhere, that hardly anybody has noticed it. N EANWHILE there is talk of the destruction of the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, a very antique building which covers valuable space coveted by the greengrocers. I foresee that the British Broadcasting Corporation will presently be building a new Opera House and Concert Hall out of our ten shillingses. More power to it! Especially if the building is decently designed and built, and especially if it can avoid the curious echo which pervades the Albert Hall, and gives hearers the satisfaction of feeling that all the singers and musicians who perform there are like “the wise thrush” in Browning’s poem, who “sings each song twice.” I said last month that I would mention what the London public was reading in the way of modern books, and before I do this, I should like to make it clear that while London has cer- tainly great power to make fashionable literary reputations, the Provinces have their own standards (Concluded on page 140)

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for OCTOBER 1927 129 7 _ | Appetites sparkle when this tomato soup is served ! It’s a bright, cheerful invitation to your appetite. A perfect picture forthe eye. A perfect treat to your sense of taste. Every spoonful of Campbell’s Tomato Soup is just so much pure, healthful sunshine. Fresh, radiant and full-ripe come the meaty, juicy tomatoes to the famous Campbell’s kitchens. Here each tomato is washed five times in crystal-clear running water. In colanders of pure nickel with mesh as fine as pin-points, the tomatoes are strained to a smooth puree. F:F°¥ So in this soup is all the rich tomato goodness. It contains only those portions of the tomato .. . the luscious “meat” and_ tonic juices . . . which are nourishing, appetizing and digestible. The blend is still more enriched with golden country butter. The last fine touch is given by the delicate seasoning of Campbell’s skilled French chefs. Then the soup is a complete masterpiece . . .a chal- lenge to your appetite . . . with a flavor that is irresistible. “Tt tastes so good.” “It’s so refreshing.” “I like it better than any other soup.” “There’s a real tang in its tomato flavor.” “They have the flavor of it just right . . . not too sharp, not too tame or flat.” 0 FF These are some of the comments often heard about Campbell’s Tomato Soup. They show how perfectly it answers the public taste and what an ideal soup it is for the family table. And what a wonder- ful Cream of Tomato Soup is pre- pared with Campbell’s by follow- ing the simple directions on the label ! 12 cents a can. LOOK FOR THE RED-AND-WHITE LABEL WITH THE MEAL OR AS A MEAL SOUP BELONGS IN THE DAILY DIET

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130 i La \ 29 a io ‘‘Van Dyke’’ EVERY STEIN & BLAINE GOWN IS CREATED BY THE HOUSE OF STEIN & BLAINE — THEN MADE TO THE INDIVIDUAL ORDER OF EACH PATRON. ALL MODELS ARE ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC. Stein 2 Blaine A CREATIVE HOUSE 13 and 15 West 5Tth Street, New York THE CAT THAT HARPER’S BAZAR LIVED AT THE RITZ (Continued from page 117) “There is no need to speak English. I know French well—I am almost French myself. I have lived among you so long.” ‘She wasn’t at all the Miss Wamrop I’d expected: she wasn’t at all like Americans of my mother’s generation, who, married to Frenchmen and Italians, had turned bitter, or dyed their hair and taken lovers, or formed an interest in art or music. She wasn’t, of course, like the brilliant young American women of our day, glittering, handsome, self-assured, dominating the European scene wherever they appear. She was a little old lady of the greatest gentility, not in the rakish enlightened eighteenth-century sense, but more . . . well, ‘Louis Phil- ippe.’” One would have picked her out anywhere as royalist under Louis Phil- ippe. That recurrent expression, “I have lived among you so long” was the key. Here, I thought, was an American who had accomplished what so many Americans of Miss Wamrop’s day had attempted without success— she had fled an America which she found hard and vulgar and actually become more French than the French. All her friends, I decided, must be French. It seemed to me that she was exactly like my French grandmother. She was small, thin, dressed in purple and black, and wore on her fingers amethysts and diamonds in heavy old-fashioned settings. As I approached, she let fall the piece of petit-point on which she had been working with the concentra- tion of a duchess who must recover her old chairs because it was a tradition in her family. I answered her, saying, “But I know English very well. My mother was American.” Her smile was a gentle reproach which said, ‘“‘ Need you tell that to one who has lived among you so long?” And _ her voice, a clear small aristocratic voice, said, ‘““Yes, I know all about that—I once served on the same charity board with your grandmother—the French one, I mean, of course. I have not lived in America for fifty years.” GAIN it occurred to me that it was strange that I had never heard of her save in the newspapers, in that world which neither myself nor my mother could believe existed. “‘T suppose you would find it greatly changed, if you went back now.” “Oh, I shall never go now. I’ve been away too long. Why, I’ve even lost all trace of my own relations . . . all except a cousin who turns up now and then. She married a Frenchman... .” Her voice fell almost to a whisper, as if she were about to mention a disgrace. “It was, of course, on a Bonapartist title, nothing important, the Prince de Bezan- court.” I murmured that I had the honor of knowing the Princesse, her cousin... a delightful and amusing woman. ‘But it is not the same,” she said in a voice which with my eyes shut I could have sworn was my grandmother’s. But my grandmother, of course, was a Frenchwoman, whose father had died on the scaffold, and she was much nearer to Napoleon. “My cousin Emma,” she said, ‘‘never adapted herself to the ways of her new country. She made no effort.”’ “But she was happy,’ I said. “One of the few happy marriages of that sort. Her husband adored her. .’. to the very end. She kept him amused and all his friends too.” I kept seeing her—Cousin Emma—as different as day and night from this quiet, exquisite old lady. Even at seventy, Cousin Emma was amusing enough to draw young men about her— a wit and a_harum-scarum—women didn’t like her. The pleasant, refined voice was saying, “But it is not the same thing. She owed a duty to her new country.”’ They were the very words I had heard my grandmother utter about Emma de Bezancourt—how long ago? Thirty years, perhaps. Here the Marquis put in a word, “You know her then?” “‘T knew her very well.” Unfortunately, this launched the Mar. quis upon a long-winded account of a visit made to the Chateau de Bezancourt, in the days when he had been the cuckold husband of the Beauty. Miss Wamrop appeared not to listen, as if such a world held no interest for one who had the Royalist cause at heart. Once in the midst of his story, he suddenly winked at me with an air of mockery, and said, “Miss Wamrop doesn’t care for that set.” There was something arrogant in the wink and look. Instead of toadying to Miss Wamrop he seemed to treat her humorously and even with disrespect, as if he were conscious of some power over her. Perhaps the old lady was a little childish and didn’t notice. It was this sort of thing that made you want to exterminate Vestiglione like a loathsome toad. When he had finished, Miss Wamrop picked up the thread of the conversation as if the interlude had not occurred. We talked of this and that, and, finally, came round to the subject of porcelaine de Saxe. She had, she said, heard of my father’s collection. She was a col- lector herself. She had had a house in the Rue de l'Université, but she gave it up during the war when it was difficult to find servants. Since then she had lived at the Ritz, and all her things had been kept in storage. She failed to speak of money, or of price, or to sug- gest that I would take less than the asking price. The Marquis talked a great deal about the beauty and value of the porcelaine, always with his commission in view, and all the while he devoured sandwiches and cakes with the air of a man who had not Junched at all. I asked her to lunch with me the following Monday, and found to my surprise that she was free, and that she accepted almost with an air of eagerness. AND then, the same moment, I saw that the immense woman with the dyed red wig and the diamond earrings was bearing down upon us like a ship in full sail. ““Ah!”) said Miss Wamrop, smiling faintly, “it’s Maria. You must know her already, Monsieur de S——. She is charming, don’t you think?” I had to admit that I did not know the lady, but in the next moment I was presented to the Duchesse de Sansavarine. At the mention of my name, the evil old face of the Duchess lighted up as if illuminated from within. ‘Ah, of course,”’ she said, seating herself heavily on one of the gilt chairs, ‘I knew your grandmother in Italy . . . at Florence. We were on the same committee to aid the orphans of parents who died in the plague there.”’ I began to think that my grand mother’s notorious charitable activities had brought her some strange acquaint- ances. The most noticeable fact about the Duchess was her need of a bath: the powder and rouge on her massive face had been put on, layer and layer, until it had caked. The curve of her massive Italian bosom bore evidence that she was an untidy eater. She was covered with a display of barbaric jewelry. Then I noticed that she had not giveD so much as a word to Vestiglione, and that he had turned his chair a little away from her. Feeling that all I had to say was ovef, I rose and kissed the hands of both ladies—the white, immaculate, beaut fully kept hand of Miss Wamrop and the fat, greasy one of the Duchess with greedy eyes. ESTIGLIONE rose hastily too, and went through the same motions, but I felt that it would have pleased him t0 bite the hand of the Duchess. And thea an odd thing happened. I saw a look o horror come into Miss Wamrop’s chins blue eyes. She screamed suddenly, (Continued on page 132)

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132 © Stein & Blaine **Ritz’’ in Baby Lamb EVERY STEIN & BLAINE FUR COAT iS SLIM IN SILHOUETTE, LIGHT IN WEIGHT AND COMFORTABLE TO WEAR. EACH FUR COAT IS CREATED BY THE HOUSE OF STEIN & BLAINE. Stein 2 Blaine A CREATIVE HOUSE 13 and 15 West 5Tth Street, New York HARPER’S BAZAR ITHE CAT THAT LIVED AT | THE RITZ (Continued from page 130) 9 | “That horrid beast!” and fainted dead away. At her scream, a great white cat | sprang from under the table and rushed toward the corridor. After much confusion we got her up- stairs and amid cries from the Duchess of “Ma chére Savinel C'est incroyable! de laisser vivre ce sale bétel”’ She had two rooms, a bedroom and a salon, overlooking the garden, and both were filled to capacity with porcelaine de Saxe. What she could want with more was quite beyond me. Her maid, Amelie, was there, and presently succeeded in bringing her back to consciousness. I left her with the Duchess, but Vestiglione remained glued to my side. At the door I discovered why. He wanted a lift in my motor to the door of the shabby hotel where he lived. In the motor the threadbare little man displayed another side of his ad- mirable character. (He was of that tribe which feeds its stomach in exchange for scabrous gossip of his friends.) It began when I asked who was the | Duchesse de Sansavarine, for the name haunted me in the same odd fashion Miss Wamrop’s had done. “She is,’ he said, ‘““a nobody. It is | one of those million worthless Italian titles. She is a vulgar old woman and lives off Miss Wamrop.” “But,” I said, “she is covered with diamonds.”’ ‘*Not a real one among them! They’re all paste—she even got them out of Miss Wamrop.” T OCCURRED to me that if the Duchess had been in the motor with me, she would be saying exactly the same things about the shabby little man in soiled gloves. I began to see why they hated each other, why they had the same haunted, hungry look in their eyes. They were two ruins, two harpies, living off that delicate old lady. And yet she didn’t seem the sort that was taken in. For all her Louis Philippe snobbery, she knew her way about the world. She clearly knew who was who and what was what. She could, it seemed to me, have done better than these two old rips. I couldn’t understand the power they seemed to have over her. ‘“Miss Wamrop doesn’t seem the sort to be imposed upon,” I observed, hoping to draw him into deeper water. But he slipped away. “She has too kind a heart... much too kind.” I knew simply that he was evading the issue. It was silly to speak of kindness in connection with Miss Wamrop: what- ever virtues she may have had, the dis- tinguished old lady was not kind. Talking to her was like talking to a marble pillar. I asked about the incident of the cat. ‘She has a horror of cats,” he said. ‘She feels one in the very room with her. That white cat has lived at the Ritz for years, but he’s on the Rue Cambon side—in the grill.” “Yes,” I said, “I know the cat very well. I’ve seen him hundreds of times, He must annoy her.” ““Oh, she never goes to the Rue Cam- bon side. It’s partly on account of the cat, but more I think, on account of the people one sees there. They offend her, you see.” “Tt’s much more amusing,” I said, with a consciousness of inflicting a thrust, “than that den of painted wrecks where we had tea to-day.” He did not even wince. ‘Yes, but you see, she belongs to another day, and they offend her... they’re rowdy, mostly American, and she doesn’t like the bar.” I understood that. I couldn’t picture my grandmother in the Ritz grill, or even living at the Ritz for that matter. “And then you see, it’s full of Ameri- cans, and she’s lived among us so I couldn’t bear hearing the remark again. I finished the sentence for him, ‘Then she ought to know that most people to-day want to be where Americans ’ | are. “‘Besides,”’ I continued, “‘my mother was American.” ‘But it’s not the same thing,”’ he said; “she didn’t belong to the noisy, vulgar mob. She was like . . . like Miss Wam- rop.” Suddenly I realized that it made me angry to think of my mother as being like Miss Wamrop. It gave me a new clue to my feelings about the old lady “My mother was certainly not like Miss Wamrop.” “Perhaps not . . .’”’ he said smoothly. “But the cat,” I continued. “If she feels like that, I can’t see why she stays on at the Ritz.” “‘She threatens to leave, but they know she never will.” “But why? ... She’s rich and free.” “She couldn’t bear living alone. At the Ritz she sees her friends.’’ After a moment, he said, “It’s an odd thing about the cat. It never crosses over from the Rue Cambon unless she is on the other side. She hates it, but it seems to be fascinated by her.” As the chauffeur opened the door for the battered Marquis de Vestiglione to get down, he said, ‘‘Don’t be afraid to ask a good price for the collection. Money is nothing to her when she’s impressed . and you’ve impressed her.”’ With this enigmatic remark, he van- ished into the mist. All the way home, the name Sansa- varine haunted me, and then suddenly it came to me. Of course! I had read her name time after time in that column of the Herald which contained the doings of that world which my mother held did not exist. At heme I looked up the Herald again. Yes, she too had been at the dinner for the Crimean Orphans, along with Miss Wamrop and Vesti- glione. I began to think that Miss Wamrop’s only friends were these two ruins, but I could not see why it was she was unknown in the French world of fashion. She was to perfection that ideal of her generation—an American woman who was completely French. I missed something in her, but I could not say what it was. ON MONDAY, the day I was to en- tertain Miss Wamrop and Vesti- glione at lunch, I opened the Herald to read, “‘Among those who entertained at the unusually brilliant Sunday night at the Ritz was Miss Savina Wamrop, who had as her guests the Duchess of Sansa- varine, the Marquis de Vestiglione, and the Prince Puriatine.” So there was another friend, another title, recruited this time from among the hordes of penniless Russians! I tried to imagine the dinner with Miss Wamrop surrounded by three hungry ruins instead of two, all glaring at one another hatefully. The thing was be- ginning to be a horror. To my astonishment, Miss Wamrop appeared at lunch accompanied by a maid, the same big Auvergnoise known as Amelie—a capable servant, no doubt, despite her independent mocking black eyes. It did seem to me a bit swanky of her to be attended thus. Amelie was sent to the servants’ hall to eat, where it developed that my Henri was an old acquaintance of hers. We ate in the green dining-room, where Miss Wamrop admired the boiserie, the Chinese screen, the crystals, all the bibelots and _ stuffs collected by my father, from which I had no desire to part. I saw that Vestiglione’s little green eyes appraised each piece (he had not been in my house since my father died, and before that only once), and I knew that he was calculating greedily the commission ,he might collect on the sale of each piece to some American who never bothered to haggle over prices. I could not resist saying, ‘I mean only to part with the porcelaine de Saxe, because there is too much of it, and I don’t care for it anyway. Fortunately my mother’s American money makes me rich enough to keep it all.” Miss Wamrop, as usual, passed over (Continued on page 134)

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-— = C EDobbe Quate - (Hobbs Heats . Dobbs Sorts Autive fer’ fs ORE IW ear mn C own and (- ountr Vv DOBBS 1ere is tslinctlion (Dobbs Clothes DOB B S Shows for H 15008 PIFTH AVENUE. ae S0T* STREET Mew Lik, mt LA aw Hatters } 4a + toring eid C J, ih HARPER’S BAZAR THE CAT THAT LIVED AT THE RITZ (Continued from page 132) the vulgar remark about American money, as if she were ashamed of her own wealth, derived from sources of which I was at that time ignorant. She ate a great deal, rather greedily, but in the grand manner. Watching her, I felt an extraordinary dislike taking possession of me. It was not so strong as my loathing for that little beast, Vestiglione, and of a quite different sort. It was not so much contempt as cold dislike fasten- ing itself somehow upon the patrician marble mask of a face, the cold blue eyes, the delicate, blue-veined hands. Out of some inexplicable impulse of malice, I mentioned the affair of the cat, expressing my sympathy for what had happened. Even beneath the thin enamel of powder and rouge, she turned pale. “‘Let’s not speak of it,’’ she said; “the thought makes me ill.” I expressed my regret, somewhat in- sincerely, for having given her pain, and discovered that in all truth I had a desire to torture her by speaking of it again. I am not by nature a sadist, but something about the cameo-like shell of the old lady exerted an extraordinary effect on me. She spoke of the Rue Cambon side of the Ritz, deprecating the sort of people one found there. “Of course, it is all changed now. I can remember when one saw only ladies and gentlemen. It’s almost as bad anywhere.” She put down her fork. “You know, Monsieur de S——,, I have never cared for my own people. I only feel at home with the French—the real French.” I knew what she meant by the real French—the sort who are royalist and Roman Catholic, who consider central heating and bathrooms the height of vulgarity, whose conversation when it is not about the fantastic dream of plac- ing some mental imbecile upon the throne of France is concerned with the price of potatoes and carrots or their rheumatism. I wanted to say, ‘God give you strength! You’re welcome to them,” but of course, it was impossible to say a thing like that to such a delicate old lady. “T find that my own people—that is, the ones who were my own people once —have no sensibilities.” AF TER lunch we looked at the porce- laine. She admired them, though it seemed to me that she knew nothing whatever about them—the marks, the dates, the lustre—nothing that a person with so large a collection as her own should have known. And, one by one, before we reached them, she asked Vesti- glione to remove from sight any group which contained a cat. As such a sub- ject was rarely treated, there were only two. “Keep those,” she said, “for yourself. The rest I will buy. I have no room for them at the Ritz, but I’ll have a man come to pack them and place them with my other things.” “But you haven’t spoken of the price?”’ I protested. “Tl trust you. I dislike discussing money. I’m sure that one can trust a de S—.’ What was there to do but shrug my shoulders? I determined, however, that Vestiglione should not swindle her, and that I should know the actual price she paid him. It all seemed to me a bit silly. Amelie was summoned from the ser- vants’ hall and arrived looking doubly robust and high-colored. It was clear that she and Henri had been celebrating the renewal of their acquaintance. On leaving, Miss Wamrop said, “To bind the bargain, you must come and dine with me on Sunday night.” I would have refused, but for the curiosity she aroused. Checking the impulse to decline, I agreed, and she went down the stairs and disappeared in her motor. When she had gone, Vestiglione pro- ceeded to make it known to me that we could ask her what we liked for the porcelaine. I told him I would have an expert set the figure and his green eyes darkened with disappointment. “But why,’ I asked, “is she indif- ferent about the price? She’s not so rich as that.” ““No,”’ he said, “‘ but—but she’s getting old and she. ...’’ He hesitated, ‘she is trying to get rid of her money before she dies.” “Has she no one to leave it to?” “‘No relations.” “But her cousin—the Princesse and her children.” “Miss Wamrop hates them. They broke off relations long ago.”’ ‘ “‘But why does she want to give mie money—for that’s what it amounts to.” Again he hesitated, “Well, she is a royalist, you see. She wants to help the ancien régime.” “But Pm ...Tmrich. I’ve already been helped by American mone y. “Tt’s not altogether that .. . per- haps.”” He looked at me slyly. “ Per- haps you wouldn’t understand... but she’d like to have you dine with her at the Ritz.” WENT on Sunday night, more puz- zled than ever, and found that the other guests were the Italian Duchess, more dirty and bedizened than ever, Vestiglione, and the Russian Prince, who was not quite bright, and drank too much champagne. It was a nightmare of boredom, with the Duchess and Vestiglione hating each other and com- peting for Miss Wamrop’s favors, and the Russian Prince too feeble-minded to bother about anything. Nor were the tables about us much better, ruins like Miss Wamrop’s friends interposed with tremendous fat women in passementerie and pince-nez, who fancied they were moving in the great world among the aristocracy of France. There were titles, I am sure, on every side—the titles my mother and I had laughed over many a time, for here I had dis- covered the heart of our lost world which we had always claimed did not exist. Through it all Miss Wamrop main- tained her grand air of dignity, cold as a statue, high-bred and pale as some ghost of the old régime. She was the only one in the room who had a look of race or distinction. And the next morning, I read in the Herald, “Among those who entertained at. the unusually brilliant dinner at the Ritz was Miss Savina Wamrop, who had as her guests the Duchesse of Sansavarine, the Prince de S$ the Marquis de Vestiglione, and the Prince Puriatine.”’ I felt somehow as if I had been soiled. I felt that my grandmother must be rolling rapidly in her Louis Philippe patrician grave. ISS WAMROP kindly invited me on two other occasions to the ‘‘un- usually brilliant dinner” at the Ritz, but I had not the strength to go, although once my name appeared mysteriously, none the less, as among those present. It occurred to me then, that in some strange fashion the god of the social column must have seat provided in advance with lists of guests at these Sunday-night dinners. The porcelaines were packed and went away to storage. I discovered that Vestiglione tried to sell them to her at a price far above that named by the expert, and after a scene told him never to speak to me again, or ask any favor from me. And then I drew a veil over the mystery of Miss Savina Wamrop. Still disliking her for no reason I could name, I decided to forget my curiosity as to why, with all her qualifications, she had remained unknown, why she had sunk to the level of the Duchess and Vestiglione. But the affair was not over. One day, three months later, Henri came to me to announce that he planned to be married. Would I have any objections? No, I said, none whatever, so long as (Continued on page 136)

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for OCTOBER 1927 THE ILLUSTRIOUS NEW (Shrysler 72” | Longer, ‘Roomier, Faster Handsomer at constant accelération, and makes you totally unconscious of all ordinary hills— That rides 4s softly as a down pillow, over brick, <6bble-stone or rutted dirt—

the next minute, longer, roomier, faster, A handsomer, and with performance and riding results never before achieved—Chry- sler excels even Chrysler in its appeal te_ the discriminating. P For this newest product of Chrysler skill and science profits from four years’ experience with the notable “70” to give you light weight for economy; pivotal steering and compactness for easy handling; hydraulic four-wheel brakes for safety; plus the luxury of full rubber mounting to wipe out the last vestige of engine tremor and road shock. I THE illustrious new “72"— modern as hat 1s beautiful and luxurious beyond description — You can’t imagine such a car because there never has been such a car in its class as the illustrious new Chrysler “72”. Begin your new “72” experience by seeing it and driving it. Learn for yourself how extra-generously the illustrious new “72” ex- cels your highest expectations. Any Chrysler dealer will gladly afford you this opportunity. ’ ry , And such performance! You probably can't even imagine out of your past experience a car that handles more easily at 70 and 72 miles than most cars do at 45— Eight body styles, $1495 and upwards f. 0. b Detroit. Chrysler dealers are in position to extend the conve- nience of time payments. Askabout Chrysler's attractive plan. All Chrysler cars have the additional protec- tion against theft of the Fedco System of numbering, That flashes from 5 to 25 miles an hour in 7 seconds— That takes even mountain grades engine... The new Chrysler “Red-Head” will be regular equipment on the Illustrious New Chrysler ‘*72" Roadster, giving even greater speed and acceleration than the standards announced. It is also available for all other “72” body models. M E A N MILE §& Pe. & x Oo .9 & New Chrysler ‘“Red-Head’* Engine—For those who seek supreme performance—speed, pick-up, hill-climbing ability, going beyond even the qualities of its standard sixes— Chrysler fur- nishes its new “Red-Head™ high-compression MODEL NUMBERS

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RYSteER

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he True Elegance of OF In A. Jaeckel Creations for Autumn & Winter will be found a distinct- ive. expression of the true elegance of Furs _ AJAECKEL & CO, Jurriers 6xclusivel: Fifth Ave. Bet.35-36 Sts. New | | | | | THE CAT HARPER’S BAZAR THAT LIVED AT THE RitTzd (Continued from page 134) it did not interfere with his duties. I congratulated him. Who was the lady? Henri shifted uneasily from one foot to another. “Her name is Amelie. Per- haps you remember her, sir? The maid who came with the old lady from the Ritz to lunch one day.” “Of course. But she seems quite a handful. I hope she’ll be staying on with Miss Wamrop?” Again Henri shifted his feet. ‘Why, no, sir,’ he said. ‘That was just it. I wondered if you couldn’t find a place for her in the house?”’ I thought for a moment. ‘Perhaps I could find a place. But you see, Henri, I don’t want to feel that I’m stealing Miss Wamrop’s maid from her.’ “You wouldn’t, sir; Amelie means to leave, anyway.” “But she’s been with Miss Wamrop for a long time.” “Eleven years. And she still gives satisfaction, sir. It’s Amelie who is breaking off. She says she’s spent as much of her life as she means to with a...a...a monster was the word Amelie used, sir.” ‘““Miss Wamrop . . . amonster! Why, she’s a very nice old lady.” “Sometimes, sir, people seem different to their servants... more real, I mean. Amelie says she’d go mad if she stayed any longer.” ‘‘Why has she stayed so long?” “Well, you see, sir, it’s a good place, as money goes. Amelie gets three times as much money as any other servant, just to stay with Miss Wamrop. It seems she can’t get a servant to stay otherwise. She must be a pretty terrible old lady, sir, for Amelie to give up all that money. And Amelie’s an Auver- gnoise, too.”” A shadow of humor colored his voice. “‘And you know how they feel about money.” “But what does Miss Wamrop do that makes Amelie want to leave?” “T can’t make out, sir; it’s just that she is . . . well, what she is—Amelie says she’s not a human being.” The answer seemed not to make sense, but there was clearly nothing to be got by questioning. “‘T’ll think it over and see. Perhaps I can make a place for Amelie.” WO mornings later, before I had given Henri an answer, Amelie her- self called me by telephone. She was, she explained in a voice trembling with emotion, sorry to trouble me, but she did not know what else to do. Miss Wamrop had died during the night, and Amelie did not know where to turn. She had called Miss Wamrop’s friends, but to no good. “What friends?” I asked. The voice of the big Auvergnoise came back to me filled with scorn. “Madame la Duchesse, Monsieur le Marquis and Monsieur le Prince Russe.” Neither the Duchess nor Vestiglione would come and Prince Puriatine was, she thought, too drunk to make sense. Surely, I argued, there were other “friends” who knew Miss Wamrop better than I did. ““No,”’ said Amelie, ‘‘she had no other friends. They are all dead.” So I agreed to come at once. 1! FOUND Amelie, still excited, stand- ing in the middle of the salon filled with porcelaine de Saxe. She was dressed to go out, with her bags packed by her side. “Surely,” I protested, “you don’t mean to leave the moment Miss Wamrop dies?” There was no arguing with her. Amelie meant to go, without delay. “It was like her to die just when I was leaving to be married. I'll be late as it is. I spoke of loyalty. “Loyalty!” screamed Amelie. ‘Why should I be loyal? She tormented me foreleven years.”’ I asked how, but she could only an- swer, “In a million ways. She was a monster. It was living with one of the dead.”’ She could not say what it was that poor Miss Wamrop had done, but she burst forth in a life history of the old woman. ‘You want to know what she was like? Well, she never had a friend never since I knew her—but harpies like Madame la Duchesse and Monsieur le Marquis. She used to buy things— furniture and pictures—from people like you—respectable people of position— just to get acquainted with them, but it never lasted. They saw her once or twice and that was the end. You were just like all the others. The people she might have known were never good enough for her. Why, she had to close her house because nobody came to it and no servant would stay.’’ Amelie began to weep. “Oh, sir, you don’t ie what I’ve put up with.” I didn’t know and it seemed impossible to discover. Amelie seized her bags and dashed for the door, leaving me alone. There was a noise in the adjoining bedroom and [ discovered that Miss Wamrop was alone with a bearded undertaker, being made ready for her final rest. BEGAN poking about the room, looking for some clue as to will or lawyers, something which would take from my shoulders the responsibility of this old lady whom I disliked so pro- foundly. Presently I found the address of her lawyers: and I also found a pile of heavy books bound elegantly in mo- rocco leather. I opened them to discover that the blank pages were pasted over with clippings from newspapers. There they were, page after page of them— “Among those who entertained at the unusually brilliant Sunday evening at the Ritz was Miss Savina Wamrop .” ete., etc. They went back for years, many of them long since turned yellow with age, some of them clippings from the columns of Mondanites in French journals. Going back through them one discovered there all those names which had given my poor mother many a good laugh, the names of a world which in truth did not exist, save in its own imagination. It was like a directory of some niche in Hell filled with the ghosts of bankrupt dukes, bogus princes, broken-down opera singers, fake counts, swindling duchesses. There among them appeared my own name. This, then, had been the world of Miss Wamrop. Why had she done no better? Why had she preferred these horrid wraiths to her own people, who were, she had said, “so lacking in sensibilities?” Clearly she had been trying all the while for something higher. There was something pathetic about these richly bound books—the history, all there was of it, of a snob whose generation had all died, save Vestiglione and the Duchess. The world had moved on, leaving her to die alone, not caring any longer about her gentilities, nor the titles which she worshipped. Here in these books lay bound all of Miss Wam- rop’s life. She had lived for these clip- pings, and instead of capturing the reality, she was dead, now, having cap- tured only the ghosts of ruin and decay. Why? I kept asking myself. I knew a score of women, snobs like herself and certainly more common, who had suc- ceeded. Why? I kept asking my self. The voice of the undertaker interrupted my thoughts. He stood in the doorway, rubbing his hands. ‘If you wish to look at Madame, she is ready.” I went because it seemed only decent that some one should care enough to look at her before the coffin was closed— some one who was not a servant nor an undertaker nor a hotel manager. She was dressed in her black and purple dress: I noticed that her hands were ringless, and asked the bearded unde rtaker what had become of her rings. “T gave them,”’ he said, “‘to her sister. She came just now w hile you were talking to the servant.’ “Sister!” I said, “but she had no sister.” (Concluded on page 138)

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that she old she ‘Dies leur like n— but once You ople r¢ od lose O it 1elie on’t sible | for was id I lone lade for OCTOBER 1927 discusses Beauty Europe VIVID, arresting personality is the Infanta Eulalia. A true princess of the reigning Spanish family, she possesses not alone its charm but its traditional daring and forcefulness of character—that indestructible spirit which has been the mark of the Spanish Royal family since the days of Ferdinand and Isabella. Unlike most women of royal birth, whose lives are restricted by the formalities of court, Infanta Eulalia has seen the world, has made friends in every walk of life, has pursued her own activities. And always, whether as Royal visitor to the courts of other countries or among her own beloved people of Spain, she rec- ognizes the significance of every note of the life about her. O she speaks with experience and knowledge when she emphasizes the importance to a woman—especially to one whose life centers in court circles—of cultivating her loveliest attri- butes, of learning how she may keep the fresh beauty of her skin. “Life in the courts of Europe,” she says, “demands much of a woman, especially that poise and assurance which birth and posi- g tion give, but which must be Guietncdile supported by exquisite personal 74), scutes chalet attributes. The daily use of |, Grindelwald Pond’s Two Creams,” she con- cludes with wisdom, “leads to this assurance.” ER Royal Highness Eulalia is not unique in this conclusion. Leading women every- where are completely in accord with her. Seek- ing the best means of keeping their complexions untrammeled by the strain of modern life, thou- sands have found it in the Two Creams made by Pond’s. Used as follows daily these fragrant delicious creams will bring to you that most ex- quisite personal attribute—a clear youthful skin: Her Royal Highness ULALIA nfanta of Spain in the Courts of Her Royal Highness, lnranta Evuautia of Spain aunt of the King, has traveled widely, lived in every country in Europe and once visited the United States. Her opportunities for observation and her keen intel- lect give her an exceptional understanding of Euro- pean society. Her book, “ Courts and Countries After the War,” is replete with penetrating comment, ero Cleanse your skin and keep it fresh and supple by using Pond’s Cold Cream. Upon retiring and often during the day, whenever your skin feels dusty, drawn, tired, pat this light cream on generously. Let it remain a few moments. Its fine pure oils penetrate the pores, A glimpse of the Infanta in lace mantilla, on removing all dust and powder. Wipe off. Repeat. her way to mass, in Madrid. She is staunch tn Finish with a dash of cold water. If your skin is dry her devotion to the faith of her country and of leave some of the cream on after the bedtime cleansing her family—the Bourbons, which has been the to restore suppleness. reigning house of Spain for more than two hundred years A Final Touch of Loveliness YR that exquisite last touch of loveliness, that radiance and finish which you need for evening and when you go out, apply Pond’s Vanishing Cream lightly. Do this after every daytime cleansing, always before you powder, and before going out into wind or dust. This cream, even more than Pond’s Cold Cream, has pleased the Infanta Eulalia of Spain, who exclaims: “Of all the Creams I have used, nothing has given me such a sense of freshness as Pond’s Vanishing Cream.” Free Offer « Mailthis coupon for free sample tubes of Pond’s . Two Creams with instructions Tue Ponp’s Extract Company, Dept. X, 122 Hudson Street, New York Name These are the Two Creams, so delicately pre- Street . Tas 4 pared from exquisite ingredients, that highly born women the world around choose them ee State

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pineeitininatinn =] ———Ee re AP te st ERGDORF OODMAN 616 FIFTH AVENUE q NEW YORK “OR Wesiseaiammans ° — Edward Thayer Monroe Bergdorf - Geodman introduces the new mode in crepe and velvet com- bined in this lovely afternoon dress. THE CAT THAT LIVED THE HARPER’S BAZAR AT RITZ (Concluded from page 136) A suspicion crossed my mind like a shadow. ‘‘ What did the sister look like?” He described her—a large woman, he said, with diamond earrings and many diamonds on her fingers. Her hair, he thought, was perhaps... well, per- haps nature had not produced so vivid a red: and she was .. . was . . . well, ra- ther untidy. I asked him to leave me alone for a moment, and I knelt to pray by the old woman who had been robbed as she lay dead, by one of the two “friends” who remained to her in all the world. When I had finished, I stood for a time looking down at the old face. In death it looked more than ever like marble, more than ever vacant of all emotion, of all passion, of all character. Empty was the only word that described it, and the emptiness was of a sort that had a quality of horror and repulsion. I began to understand a little what Amelie had been unable to put into words. And then suddenly I became aware that the curtain beside me was moving ever so slightly, and looking down I saw a soiled white paw emerge, and a moment later I was looking into a pair of china-blue eyes—the eyes of Miss Savina Wamrop. For a moment [ was seized by a sensation of horror and mad- ness: and then almost at once I under- stood. It was only the cat that lived at the Ritz: he had found her out at the very end when she could no longer scream and escape. But the eyes were unmistakably the eyes of Miss Wamrop. The animal stared at me boldly, and, looking into the china-blue orbs, I sud- denly understood the whole mystery— the lack of success, the “friends” she had accepted as the real thing, the pitiful elegant book of shabby clippings, the un- speakable things which Amelie could not put into words. I saw why it was that she fainted at sight of the cat whose eyes were her own eyes, I knew that my prayer for her soul had been useless, for Miss Wamrop had never had any soul. She was exactly like the cat she had always fascinated in so strange a fashion. Driving the cat before me, I closed the door on the last of a race that had become extinct—the last of those who “had lived so long among the French that they had become French themselves.” The white cat scurried down the stairs, and the murmur of talking and the tinkle of cocktail glasses rose from the bar. SMART SHOES FOR SMART OCCASIONS (Concluded from page 125) Spanish painter, wears an evening sandal in both gold and in silver, which is made of interlaced strips like a sports shoe. Mrs. Reginald Fellowes likes a satin sandal, either brown or black, very simple, but with the most dainty of strappings. Madame Ganna Walska often wears a real Louis XV. shoe in brocade or velvet, with a curved slender heel of astonishing height. Pajamas have taken so important a place in the wardrobe of the smart woman, that it is natural that she should demand special footgear to wear with them, es- pecially as regular heeled shoes look in- appropriate with them. The most amusing pajama footgear I have ever seen is an invention of Suzanne Talbot’s. She clothes the foot in a cleverly fitted heelless, soleless slipper of cloth of gold, and then slips it, for further protection, into a clog of black satin, trimmed with the blue and gold galon that decorates her blue Chinese pajamas. Nothing as exciting as this would be chosen by the woman who prefers a robe d’intéricur to a pajama for boudoir wear. For her, the Parisian shoemakers create entrancing mules. The pair that I have had sketched struck me as being delicious for winter wear. They are in fine kid, beige, gray, pale rose, or some color that goes well with one’s boudoir fittings or one’s lounging gown. They are lined with ermine dyed to match and rolled over comfortably on the in- step, while the low heel is covered with kid of a darker shade or a contrasting color, as one chooses. The same thing comes in an altogether heelless mule, if one prefers it. About stockings there is little’ new to say. For some time I have noticed that as the days grow shorter daytime stock- ings show a tendency to grow darker. This summer the dark shades persisted in many cases all through the finest weather. At Deauville, for example, quite dark ‘‘sunburn colored” stockings were worn even with white shoes at the very beginning of the season, before arms and faces were tanned to match them. At an extremely smart wedding in Paris itself, that of the daughter of the Mar- quise de Chasseloup-Laubat, the brides- maids and most of the guests wore sun- burn-tan stockings. The maids had delphinium blue chiffon frocks, and their satin. pumps matched their stockings exactly. The bride wore creamy silk stockings with her white satin shoes, and this is the only pair of white stockings that I saw in town throughout the season. For playing games, the fine wool stock- ings, plain, heavily ribbed, or in a small unobtrusive pattern, are chosen by many women. For country wear, there is the heavily ribbed silk stocking, and a newer variety in that net mesh, of heavy quality, which was introduced some years ago in light weight for evening wear. This looks and wears well, especially when the silk is very lustrous, as this weave does not shine. For walking i town, a ‘“‘40” is permissible, even 4 “36” if one is wearing sports clothes; but with afternoon dress ‘44 fine” 3 the invariable choice of the smart woman, and many wear this weight all the time. For evening, the same thing that observed last spring in Cannes still holds good. That is to say, stockings are slightly darker with dark gowns and lighter with light ones; but if you prefer to match them to your skin you have plenty of precedent for it. SAGE I AM not old as age is told In counting up the years, But I have wept, and age has leapt Upon me with my tears. —Kathleen Millay.

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LONDONERS HARPER’S BAZAR REMAIN LONDONERS (Concluded from page 128) and their own tastes, not at all inferior to those of London, much slower in their action upon permanent literary reputa- tion, but in the main more reliable. What is read in London is the latest, but in a couple of months it may cease to be the latest, and may then be forgotten. What is read in the Provinces, on the other hand, is remembered. It is one of the notable things about the year 1927 that the three most remarkable books of the spring season have been read all over England. The books are “‘ Revolt in the Desert,” Mr. Churchill’s war book, and “Jew Siiss” (known in America as ‘“Power”). ‘“‘Jew Siiss” has had quite a romantic history, for it was actually published before Christmas, 1926. It fell absolutely flat, owing to a late, poor season and the dry hostility of librarians to anything novel. A belated review in the Times Literary Supplement early in January sent mem- bers of the Times Book Club and others after the book, and then Mr. Arnold Bennett wrote about it in the Evening Standard. Mr. Bennett has not—as a critic—escaped the criticism of others; but all who have read his ‘“‘ Books and Persons” will admit that he has ulti- mately been more often approved in his literary judgments than any other pro- phetic critic of our time. He has never been afraid to praise—sometimes with excess of generosity, but always with courage and _ brilliance. The conse- quence is seen in the fact that readers attach extraordinary weight to Mr. Bennett’s views, and read what he rec- ommends. They say, in effect: “‘What Arnold Bennett likes is good enough for me.” It was so in the case of “Jew Siiss,”’ which has now been a genuine best-seller in the whole of England for ten months. Apart from these books that I have named, the year 1927 has not been one of sudden reputations or even of startling individual successes. The most notable of the other books have probably been, in non-fiction, Miss Helen Waddell’s ‘‘ The Wandering Scholars,’ Mr. Sadleir’s “Anthony Trollope,” and Sir Jagadis Chunder Bose’s ‘Plant Autographs.” Among novels those which appear to stand out from the others are Mr. Brett Young’s ‘‘Portrait of Clare’’ (called in America ‘‘ Love is Enough’’), Miss Rosa- mund Lehmann’s “‘ Dusty Answer,” Mrs. Woolf’s “‘To the Lighthouse,” and Mr. Bohun Lynch’s ‘Respectability.” <A short list, but if all the books in it were masterpieces it would be long enough for a single year. Among the books which are still to appear, I should say that the most notable of all is likely to be ‘“‘The Letters of Gertrude Bell.” I have not seen this, and I did not know Gertrude Bell, but it is my impression that the book will be a real book. HE romantic history of a First Folio of Shakespeare can be just glimpsed in the rediscovery—or so it is believed to be —at Ogston Hall, in Derbyshire, of a copy which used to be chained in the Bodleian. The book has been purchased —or repurchased—by the Bodleian authorities, and it has been given a page by page examination with the object of discovering from what is called ‘internal evidence” (namely, the dirtiness of the pages) which of the plays of Shakespeare were most studied by Oxford University undergraduates in the seventeenth cen- tury. Nobody will be surprised to learn that the most thumbed play of the whole series is “‘Romeo and Juliet.” Indeed, at that point in the play at which Juliet appears upon the balcony, the thumbs have actually pressed with such constancy and agitation that they have worn a hole in the page! It is not known, I believe, how the book was persuaded to leave the Bodleian for Derbyshire, but perhaps the Civil War was responsible. One cannot imagine Cromwell’s Ironsides spending overmuch time with “‘ Romeo and Juliet.” \t any rate, the Bodleian now has the book back upon its shelves, and the curi- ous may see that, after ‘‘Romeo and Juliet”? and the Balcony Scene, the great- est favorites among Shakespeare’s works, with the generations immediately suc- ceeding his own were “Julius Cesar,” “The Tempest,” ‘“‘Henry the Fourth, Part I,” “‘ Macbeth,” and ‘“‘Cymbeline.” It is not a bad choice, but I draw atten- tion to the fact that neither ‘‘Hamlet” nor, that favorite of the pundits, “Othello,” is included in it. An equally serious omission is the best of all Shake- speare’s comedies, “Twelfth Night.” WONDER which are the best known streets in the world? Fifth Avenue would stand very high, I have no doubt, but Piccadilly would take rank among the first half-dozen. And all who have visited London must have been thrilled to know that Piccadilly has been “up” this summer. Americans, I believe, often consider that the chief thoroughfares in London are ‘‘up” all the year round, but any thought of this kind arises from the fact that our road-menders begin their most inconvenient work when there are more visitors to the city than at any other time. They are the optimists. They have heard of summer as a dry season, and, as London is said to be empty in the summer (or was so said to be empty about one hundred years ago), they be- lieve they will have suitable weather and little traffic if they choose the mid-year for operations. It is one of the many pathetic fallacies. London is crowded in the summer—principally with strangers— and the weather is seldom dry. But Piccadilly is ‘‘up,”’ and traffic is not run- ning along its broad surface. Posts and rails stand where policemen are wont to stand. Road-breaking machines and drills are at work. The most fascinating sight in the world is before the eyes of all who pass. It is the sight of other men at work. Nothing can equal it. More- over, foot passengers are walking where as a rule they are afraid to walk. They are in the roadway, and there is no horn to frighten them out of it. I have never seen a more delighted stream of people than that which every day invades the empty roadway. Its members have all the ecstasies of rebellion with none of the inconveniences. I suspect that each man and woman who walks now in Piccadilly shuts his or her eyes and dreams of defy- ing the autocratic automobilist. It must be the highest wish of all pedestrians to defy the motorists, and as the motorists are not here they can be defied with impunity. It is strange, indeed, how different one feels when walking and when driving. As a motorist, I suspect of in- sanity nearly all the pedestrians I pass; but as a pedestrian I loathe all motorists. In Piccadilly just now the pedestrian is having his day. And it is particularly interesting to know that as the entire drainage system of this great thorough- fare is laid bare for the first time for many years much information of value is being gathered by those whose business (apart from those whose pleasure) it is to ob- serve these matters. Even ancient wooden water pipes are being unearthed. I see that in the seventeenth century hollowed elm trunks were much used for the con- veyance of water under the roadways in London, and that there was consider- able prejudice at the time against what was then an innovation. Water-carriers, indeed, called out as they cried their goods: “Fresh river water! None of your pipe slush!” I cannot say what their “‘fresh river water” was like, but I am thankful that we no longer have to drink it. We owe much to Disraeli, and his battle (or election) cry: ‘Sanitas sanitatum,”’ which preceded a great deal that the present-day Londoner takes for granted in the direction of health and convenience. For reminding us of the past, this great upheaval of Piccadilly has deserved our thanks; for delighting us at the present moment, with its drills and laboring men, its wide freedoms in the matter of footpaths and its trafficless night silences, it deserves our thanks in similar measure. Even “road up” has its compensations, after all. But it is extraordinarily troublesome and annoy- ing for visitors, and the one bright aspect, from the point of view of those who have come to see London, not to excavate it, is that this road-making will not require to be done again for about a century!

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RS esar,” ourth, line.” atten- mlet” ndits, jually hake- nown venue oubt, ig the have rilled “up” olten es in |, but n the their e are other They ason, nN. the npty ’ be- ‘and year nany din rs— But run- and it to and ting 's of men ore- here ‘hey 10m ever ople the - all the nan lilly ely- for OCTOBER 1927 141 YOU CAN’T CURE COARSE PORES —nor even hide them —by piling on heavy make-up HAT to do for a coarse skin? Scores of women ask Elizabeth Arden every day. And Elizabeth Arden’s reply is always, ‘“‘ Don’t be satisfied with just covering up coarse pores. Piling on heavy make-up never did sluggish pores any good. You must correct their coarse- ness by correcting their sluggishness.”’ And Elizabeth Arden tells about the scientific treatment for this common skin fault. She recommends that you pay particular attention to the method of cleansing your face. Take a pad of ab- sorbent cotton, wring out of cold water, wet with Ardena Skin Tonic, dip in Venetian Cleansing Cream—and use this to wash the face and neck. It will remove all the dust and impurities which dis- tend and darken the pores. Thus you remove the cause of coarse pores, you see. Then take a fresh pad of cotton, wet with Skin Tonic, and pat the face and neck briskly with this. The smart patting brings up a stream of cleansing circula- tion to clarify and brighten the skin. The slight astringency of Skin Tonic will contract open pores. Apply Venetian Pore Cream over large pores, smoothing it particularly on the nose and chin, where pores are laziest. Leave Pore Cream on overnight, if this is your bedtime treatment. And be very sure of the quality of every toilet preparation you use. The im- maculate purity of Elizabeth Arden’s Venetian Toilet Preparations will pro- tect and promote the health of your skin. Write for Elizabeth Arden’s book, “The Quest of the Beautiful,” which will tell you how to follow her scientific method in the care of your skin at home. And a second book, “‘ Your Masterpiece—Your- self,” will tell you about Elizabeth Arden’s Home Course for beauty and health. DEMEYER NEW! HAT are these “manipula- tive exercises” everyone is talking about? That, I think, is something that Elizabeth Arden had better an- swer for herself: “They are new—and wonderful j for the muscles of the face. They are like having a Treatment at the | hands of one of my most experi- | enced assistants, but you can do them with your own fingers, before your own mirror. They react on the skin like the kneading movements of my Salon Treatments; bringupa rich flow of circulation to strength- en and firm these muscles which make your contour smooth as a sculptor’s ideal. “How are the manipulative ex- ercises done? Like all simple things, there are no simpler terms with which to define them. I suggest that you have a Demonstration Treatment in one of my Salons and a let my assistant teach you with }; your own fingertips. Or write me be @ i and let me enroll you in my Home Course to receive the instruction in helpful lessons suited to your individual requirements.” Elizabeth cArden recommends these Preparations for your care of the skin at home Venetian Cleansing Cream. Melts into the pores, rids them of dust and impurities, leaves skin soft and receptive. $1, $2, $3, $6. Venetian Ardena Skin Tonic. Tones, firms and whitens the skin. Use with and after Cleansing Cream. 85c, $2, $3.75, $9. Venetian Orange Skin Food. Keeps the skin full and firm, rounds out wrinkles, lines and hollows. $1, $1.75, $2.75, $4.25. Venetian Velva Cream. 4 delicate cream for sensitive skins. Recommended also for a full face, as it smooths and softens the skin without fattening. $1, $2, $3, $6. Venetian Special Astringent. For flaccid cheeks and neck. Lifts and strengthens the tissues, tightens the skin. $2.25, $4. Venetian Muscle Oil. 4 penetrating oil rich in the elements which restore sunken tissues or flabby muscles. $1, $2.50, $4. Venetian Pore Cream. Greaseless astringent cream, contracts open pores, corrects their inactivity. Smooth over coarse pores at bedtime. $1, $2.50. Venetian Amoretta Cream. 4 vanishing and pro- tective cream, gives the skin a soft natural finish under powder. $1, $2. Venetian Lille Lotion. An exquisite finishing lo- tion. Leaves a becoming bloom on the skin. Six shades. $1.50, $2.50. Venetian Waterproof Cream. 4 waterproof finish- ing cream delightful for sports. A superb foundation cream, also, for evening make-up. $3. Venetian Bleachine Cream. 4 bleaching and emol- lient cream, made of fresh lemons. Softens and whitens the skin, removes tan and redness. $1.25. Poudre d’Illusion. Exquisite powder, fine, pure, flat- tering. Illusion (a peach blend), Rachel, Ocre, White, Minerva and Banana. $3. Venetian Bath Salts. Pure crystals, exquisitely per- fumed, which transform the bath into a fragrant and refreshing luxury. Rose, Russian Pine, Nirvana. Jn handsome glass jars. $1.75, $3, $5. On sale at smart shops all over United States, Canada, Great Britain, in the principal cities of Europe, Africa, Australasia, the Far East, South America, West Indies and the U.S. Possessions. ELIZABETH ARDEN LONDON: 25 Old Bond Street CHICAGO: 70 E. Walton Place PHILADELPHIA: 133 South 18th Street BOSTON : 24 Newbury Street WASHINGTON: 1147 Connecticut Avenue DETROIT: 318 Book Building NEW YORK: 673 FIFTH AVENUE SAN FRANCISCO: 233 Grant Avenue ATLANTIC CITY: Ritz-Carlton Block LOS ANGELES: 600 West 7th Street PARIS: 2 rue de la Paix BIARRITZ: 2 rue Gambetta CANNES: 3 Galeries Fleuries © Elizabeth Arden. 1927

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ATTERNS, patterns everywhere. Sterling silver lending its inherent beauty to a score of varied designs. Not all of them can be equally good. Some aim no higher than current decorative fads. They will go out of fashion almost as quickly as a frock. And you don’t buy new sterling each season. You buy it once . to last the rest of your lifetime. A fugitive pattern won't do. You want a pattern you can live with . . . one to which years add only lustre . . . a pattern that, like your pearls, is above the reach of changing styles. There are such patterns. And selecting one is not such a baffling task. It demands just one thing—that you restrict your choice to patterns based on fun- damental decorative themes . patterns whose motifs have a recognized place in the history of design... Fontaine, Wedgwood and Pantheon. that are as firmly grounded as Minuet, An INTERNATIONAL STERLING REPRODUCTION Name A TEAPOT BY WILLIAM MOULTON (1720-1793) Original in Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Street Silversmiths of the Fine Arts Division of the International Silver Co. recreate, in every detail, the beauty of almost priceless museum pieces. A home can have no : prouder silver than these master reproductions. The teapot illustrated is $285.00. A ice ace —~s A FUGITIVE ™ = PATTERN WON’T DO QA silver for ‘‘correctness’’. care of silver. . Throughout the book are exquisite full-page illustrations. gladly send it to you without cost except for the mailing charges (10 cents). Use the coupon to send for a copy of the book. The edition is limited . the names of the nearest jewelers where you may inspect the patterns shown here. The scrolled pediment—distinguishiag feature of Early American doorways and furniture—endows Minuet with courtly grace. Fontaine reflects luxury —the restrained splendor of the Renaissance—a pat- tern particularly suited to homes where the decora- tive trend is Spanish, French or Italian. Wedgwood captures, in sterling, the exquisite, cameo-like orna- mentation of the famous pottery from which its name is borrowed. Pantheon is classic—a lovely variation of the simple Grecian theme. These are four diverse patterns—yet you can settle upon whichever one you find most appealing and feel absolutely secure in your choice. For each has some- thing really definite behind it. Each is a brilliant, modern handling of some basic element in decoration. And that is the secret of selecting sterling of which you never tire . . . silver whose beauty, charm and cor- rectness is the same today. . . tomorrow. . . forever! Complete services of hollow ware to matcheach pattern. ** This book is delightful... an invaluable counselor for any one who is going to buy silver?’ WINIFRED WISHARD, Editor Home Bureau—Pictorial Review Miss Elsie de Wolfe, foremost of American interior decorators and a distinguished hostess, has supervised the writing of an unusual book, ““CORRECT TABLE SILVER—Its Chotce and Use.”’ It covers every phase of its fascinating subject. Correct table settings for every occasion . . . Informal and formal services . .. A tractical plan for beginning a set. . . These are but a few of the chapter headings. INTERNATIONAL SitveR Company, Meriden, Conn Enclosed is 10 cents (coin or stamps) to cover mailing cost of ‘‘Correct Table Silver-Its choice and Use.’ HARPER’S BAZAR It is an expensive book to produce. . Choosing table re Yer we will With sour copy, we will include H.B. 10-27

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ef OCTOBER 1927 fo Sk ee a ee

; ; ; : ‘ % $ WEDGWOOD PANTHEON MINUET FONTAINE International International International 6 teaspoons—$11.50 6 teaspoons—$11 6 teaspoons—$12.50 International 6 teaspoons—$12 26-piece sets that make an ideal foundation for a complete formal service, in these patterns range from $73.35 to $90.00 3 teaspoons, 4 dessert forks, 4 dessert knives, 4 bouillon spoons, 4 individual salad forks, 2 tablespoons Sf NTERNATIONAL STERLING MERIDEN, CONNECTION? —<—<—<—<$—$—$—$—$—_$—$—$—$—_— —— FH Os FINE ARTS DIVISION

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HARPER’S BAZAR lich compression cars are here at last! , a ADVENT of Ethyl Gasoline has in the last year brought a new standard of automobile performance to hundreds of thousands of car owners. As an Ethyl user, you have had the benefits of greatly increased speed, more power on hills and heavy roads, quicker acceleration, and complete elimination of “knock.” But the real high compression automobile is here at last! Ethyl Gasoline has made it possible! Ride with Ethyl in a high compression motor and get the thrill of a lifetime. Ethyl Gasoline is available throughout the United States and Canada at pumps which display the “ETHYL” trademark. ETHYL GASOLINE CORPORATION - 25 Broadway, New York City ETHYL GASOLINE

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Some of the world's most famous upholstery and hangings were produced at the Hotel des Gobelins under the patronage of Lows XIV. prceer requires in upholstery all that modern science can add to the ancient art of textile weaving. select the finest fabrics from the looms of Skilled specialists Europe and America. Quality first, then beauty of color and design are considered. From the whole world of materials open to its choice Packard has selected the most beautiful, durable and appropriate broadcloths, silks ASK THE MAN PACKAR WHO and velours. These are immediately avail- able. From them the Packard Eight buyer may choose with the assurance that they represent not only perfect workmanship but exquisite taste. For those desiring the individuality of custom bodies and special upholstery, Packard quickly procures tapestry, needle- point—any fabric which the most ex- acting buyer wishes. OWNS ONE

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ORIGINAL MELACHRINO “CThe One Cigarette Sold the World Over” PRINCE WILLIAM of SWEDEN Son of King Gustav, Prince William 1s famous as an ex- plorer, big game hunter, sailor, poet and dramatist. He is also noted for his discriminating taste. He writes: ‘‘This is to inform you that I have smoked the very excellent Melachrino cigarettes and found them to possess avery mild and agreeable aroma’’. A facsimile of his letter follows. chlo AE rere of Wadi DaarRG ce- oul ~ ~ 5 Lane. Oe rh, ™ aul f f Pry.t VA WA 6 @ \ * The aristocracy of the world — people of the highest rank and position in America as well as in Europe—have shown their preference for Melachrino cigarettes, be- cause they demand superlative tobacco quality — the distinctive delicacy of flavor, the matchless aroma, smoothness and richness found only in the costliest Turkish tobaccos. 30 the packet of 20—15¢ the packet of 10... . . CORK TIPS AND PLAIN ENDS

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fo r OCTOBER 1927 (M10 doesn’t believe in faivies? Have you not, as a child, sat spellbound. while some elder told of the beautiful Fairy Princess with eyes like stars, who was dressed in robes of shimmeving satin? Such a princess was Anne, daughter of George II of England; a beautiful young woman with personality so lovely that after her has been named.the newest in Sterling Silver—the Princess Anne pattern. The design is vather severe in outline, fol- lowing the flawless s yle of Ghippendale. It is graceful yet vestvained, relying for favor upon its absolute symmetry of form and its simplic ity of decoration. The Princess Anne ,attern may well be the one preterved for the home of modern American architecture. Its character, ex- ceedingly beautiful, yet never losing sight of “the practical in its purpose, has definite charm which will be felt and enjc ryed in any vefined home of today. You may order from any fune jeweler the pleces shown here and. other articles in flat silver and hollow ware. We will be glad to send youa bookleton Princess 4 nne, together with a copy of “The Wonder of Sterling Silver.” Address R. Wallace % Sons Mfg. Ge. 810 Wallace Park, Wallingford, Conn. Peincess Anne Teaspoons are $10.50 in sets of six, Dinner Forks, $ 50 and Dinner ‘nives, $22. The Tea Set of five pieces with waiter is $675 ; without the waiter, $350.

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Most men agree with Marie Gale about women of AS a specialist in faces, Marie Earle knows it is the woman of thirty who has a heightened and more myste- rious charm—who can best express her personality and her individual loveliness in her clothes, her man- ner, her face. As an authority on the care of the skin, Marie Earle also knows that it is this same ever-fascinating woman of thirty who must give most special care to her complexion. “Don’t wash your face at any age,” she says. “And never wash your face after thirty.” Even the most fastidious face- washing is risky. Soap is alkaline. Water is hard. You will dry and wither and age your skin. Little lines will grow and these will be- come wrinkles. The Marie Earle treatment is simple, pleasant and restful. Marie Earle preparations are kind to your soothing and beneficial to your skin. Marie Earle preparations are on sale in leading shops and authentic Marie Earle facial treatments are given in many cities. Write for free booklet, “The Other Side of the Moon.” Address Dept. B. complexion, most everywhere, ESTABLISHED PARIS 1910 NOW AT 660 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK CITY With Marie Earle’s Essential Cream, her Cucumber Emulsion, and the right lotion you give your com- plexion perfect care. HARPER’S BAZAR THE DANCE BELOW (Continued from page 110) behind bench and adjusts his collar and hair. The knock is repeated. The door opens slowly. A thin, dark-eyed, dark- haired girl about twenty-five years of age enters. There are circles beneath her eyes. Her skin is ivory white, her lips crimson. She wears a dark dress with a string of black beads about her neck. She is half afraid—timid.) Bates (holding out his arms to her and ultering a cry of delight): Aggie! (The girl turns, sees him, and rushes into his arms.) AcNeEs: John! (Her voice is low, passionate, perhaps a bit husky. A long embrace. They draw apart. He holds her at arm’s length. They embrace again. She strokes his hair and face and utters a little sob of joy. She staggers slightly. He catches her.) Bates: Why, Aggic—? AGNES (passes her hand across her brow): It’s all right. I’m just a little faint. I— I didn’t know just what it would all be like down here—I’m so tired—and I— I’m overcome with joy at seeing you. Oh, John, this is too wonderful! (She throws her arms about him again.) Bates: My own Aggie! (He draws her to him and pats her shoulder.) Gee, but I’m glad to see you. (He starts to lead her toward center -of stage. She begins to look about her.) Acnes: And this is hell! Why, it doesn’t look at all the way I had expected. It looks a lot like earth. (Radiant and almost hysterical.) And, John, I have you! I have you! It isn’t hell at all. They’ve sent me to heaven. (He kisses her hands. She begins to laugh.) John, they’ve sent us to heaven! (She laughs triumphantly.) Why, what are you looking so serious about? Bates (worried): Vve seen people tricked down here before. They think it’s one way, and they learn it’s another. They think they’ve escaped, and they get caught. Hell plays a cat and mouse game sometimes. AGNES (cheerfully): What can happen? We’re together— and— (She draws away suspiciously. Whispers.) You don’t love someone else? Bates: Of course not Acnes: Then forget it. Oh, John, I’m so happy. (She catches him around the neck again.) It’s heaven, John, it’s heaven. Nothing can happen. We're dead—and alone in hell. Je’s gone to heaven. We’re alone. (Seductively.) Just you and I, John. (She reaches for his mouth.) A singing is heard from the next room, a bar or two from Mario’s last aria in Tosca. AGNES steps back terrified, straining to listen. Whispers distractedly.) What—what—is—it? Don’t be silly. Bates: Why, what’s the matter? Acnes (her hands moving wildly, whispers): That voice—that tune—he used to sing it to me—when he was un- happy. (Louder) John, it’s his ghost! BaTEs (soothing her, smiling): Oh, it’s nothing. Just a pal of mine. He’s wonderful—you’ll be crazy about him. He’s a poet and everything. AGNES (terrified): A poet! I knew it—oh, my God, what are we going to do? (She moves quickly, left.) Bates (slowly following her): You don’t mean— AGNEs: Yes—my husband. (BATEs turns away in horrified astonishment and mutters ‘cat and mouse”? as KNOX enters with book. KNox is surprised and de- lighted to see AGNFS.) Knox: Oh, my darling, you’ve come! I’m so happy to see you. (He takes her tenderly in his arms and kisses her brow. She smiles wanly.) I know you're tired. I’m so sorry I didn’t meet you—but I didn’t know which route you were coming by. (He starts to lead her to the bench, when he remembers Bates.) Oh, Agnes, this is my friend, John Bates. He’s a trump. Really, it would have been unbearable here without him. John, my wife. Bates (strained): How do you do? AGNES (strained): I'm very pleased. (Knox and AGNEs sit down on bench.) Knox: Yes, Bates has been a life- saver. He’s great fun. One of those sailor fellows who keeps you laughing all the time. By the way, he’s expecting some one too. J/is girl. like a lipstick holder.) AGNES: Really! How splendid. Knox: Yes, isn’t it. We shall all have some happy times together. Bring up a chair close to us, Bates. (Bares sits astride a chair center stage.) Knox: Tell us about your trip, dear, Was it very tiring? AGNEs: Rather. But it was interest- ing. Strange. The scenery was 0 different. New. I was tired of that on earth. But tell me about yourself, What do you do down here? Bates: Mostly work. AGNES: What sort of work? Knox: Awful work! Digging graves for mangled illusions. Ugh! It’s terrible, Bates: It’s not as terrible as mine. Picture me making little hooks out of pins to catch weak souls. Me, with these paws! When night comes, I'm dead tired messing with the blooming things. Knox: Don’t let’s talk about work, John. Tell Agnes what you saw the other day. (Enthusiastically.) She'll like that! (Ze catches her hand and holds it tenderly.) Bates: It wasn’t much. I saw a kid come down the street that leads to the Museum of Dead Dreams. Some men were laying a road of oyster shells— dirty things. The kid picked them up and washed them, and built a castle. A right pretty little place. Acnes: A child down here? Bates: She didn’t stay. It was a mistake. AcNneEs: And the castle? Batrs: Oh, the men kicked that down, of course. Knox: Sucha pity. (musingly.) Yet, beauty is always beauty—even in the dust. I have seen dead hopes that shone like phosphorus in dark water. (Al the word water the girl looks at Bates and sighs. KwNox hears her and brightens his tone.) You must be hungry, dear. We'll have some tea. I'll get it at once. Bates, you tell Agnes some of your stories while ’'m prepazing it. Tell her that joke about the artist who came down here looking for new landscapes. (KNOX leaves.) BATES (rising and coming close to her and speaking in a low voice): So that’s him? The one you sent to the country for his health? He died out there, didn’t he? AGNEs (dilly): Yes. Bates: And they sent you here, for fooling him? AGNES: Yes—that and the dope. But I wanted to come, anyhow. BATES: Wanted to? Wanted to come here? AcGnes: Yes. You remember you used to say I love you like— Bates (bitterly): Hell? AGNES (looking off): It was easy to take dope, and go down. It’s great! You go way down out of people’s way. You sink where they won’t bother you any more. Bates: Do you still take it? AGNES: Yes, sometimes—in the late afternoon—when I am tired. (She takes from her pocket a tiny silver container, See? (Gazing at it thoughtfully.) Dope is sweet when it leads to— Bates (bitterly): Hell? AGNES (looking up at him): No—you. (She replaces the container.) (BATES leans forward—remembers—then stops—) Bates: What about Knox? Acnes: I’ve never really loved him, John—never wanted him as | have you. Bates: Why, he’s ten times as good as I am. He’s a gentleman and got 4 college education and everything—@ heart of gold too, and he loves you, Aggie. His face has brightened up 50 since you came. Acnes: He is wonderful. Why didn’t I love him? , It’s queer— Bates (thoughtfully): love him now. You'll have to AGNES: Why do you say that? Bates: It’s the only decent thing to do. Acnes: I can’t—I love you, John. You knowit. I’m going to live with you: (Continued on page 148)

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ill all Bring BATES _ dear, -erest- iS so that urself, JrTaves rrible. mine. ut of with , I'm oming work, v the ll like lds it a kid © the » men ells— m up e. A that Yet, n the shone At 3ATES ghtens dear. once. your Il her came capes. lo her that’s untry there, e, for dope. come 1 used sy to treat! way. r you » Jate takes ainer, ng at 1en it loved ac good got a ng—a you, Ip so lidn’t ve to thing John. ) you. OCTOBER 1927 147 IT BURNS with an unearthly beauty, shot with fire. . . . Crimsons like sudden sunsets burst and fade. There is a glimpse of hot Italian skies. A flash of orange deepens into violet, merges to mauve, rekindles into green. . . . Trembling, pulsating like a living thing, it sports with light — this jewel that holds all gems within its heart. It is this quality of prismatic irides- cence, of infinite variety and fascina- tion, which gives to the black opal its extraordinary position among precious stones. For each of these rare jewels is unique. No two will glow or scin- tillate alike. Mysterious, smouldering with internal fire, they never pall, are never twice the same. In the selection and mounting of WM. ELDER MARCUS, Jr. THE DARK FLAME MARCUS & COMPANY JEWELERS At the corner of Fifth Avenue and 45th Street, New York, and Palm Beach these distinctive gems, Marcus & Com- pany are originators and _ pioneers. Here, twenty years ago, were exhibited the first black opals ever discovered. Here is maintained the finest collection of black opals in the world . . . of inter- est not only to those whose birth-month is October, but to all who know that deep and indefinable stirring which one may experience in the possession of such a lovely jewel. Black opal brooches $7800 to $135, rings from $3000 to $25, pendants from $3000 to $375, bracelets from $900 to $575, earrings from $600 to $325, scarf pins from $450 to $35. In addi- tion, a wide selection of exceptionally fine unset black opals from $3500 to $25, suitable for special mountings. CHAPIN MARCUS © 1927

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“ohe Chic..in Furs ++... intricate simplicity is the keynote Novel achieved by fluent combinations of con- of chic in fur coats. effects are trasting pelts in geometric patterns. cA Sports Type Model Rendered in Various Furs in white shorn lambskin in American broadtail in blond hair- seal _ Posed by Miss Grace Hayes ECKEL & SONS One Family Management Since 1863 546 FIFTH AVENUE Where 45" St Crosses 5 Avenue- HARPER’S BAZAR THE DANCE BELOW (Continued from page 146) Bates (looks at her miserably): No. You’re his. AGNES (jumping up): Vm not—not now. I came down here for you! I knew you—wneeded me. He doesn’t. He has his roses—his sunsets! (She looks out of the window. The sky is gray.) AGNES (slowly): Oh, I forgot—there aren’t any—here. Bates (dully): Yes, that’s why you’ve got to stay with him. AGNES (pleadingly): I can’t. I can’t do it. Why, it will be forever—for eternity. I’m going to stay with you! Bates (with a twisted smile): Oh, no, you're not. AGNES (wonderingly): John? Bates: Not after what he told me. \GNES (anxiously): What did he tell you? What? Bates: That he loved you like— heaven. (AGNEs droops.) Didn’t you love him at all? AGNES (slowly): I did love him—in a way—but, oh, John, not like you. Don’t you remember? BATES (rising impatiently): remember everything. \cnes (leaning toward him): Down on the docks—no — stars—nothing— just us—dark— Oh, why didn’t he go to heaven where he belongs? When he died out there in the country, I thought we'd got rid of him. Why did he have to come down here and spoil things? Bates: Hehadto. It was part of the Jig. Acnes: The Jig? What’s that? Bates: That’s what Knox calls it. Us and life and eternity all mixed up. Acnes: Is that why he’s down here? Bates: That’s my opinion, but the Higher authorities said he wasn’t quite good enough for Heaven. I think he made ’em jealous. AGNES: Jealous? How? Bates: Oh, all the time worshipping Greek gods who don’t have morals. He just out and said they were more beautiful. No wonder they sent him down here. He should have known better. (Changing his tone,) I guess they didn’t do so bad though. They sent you to him. Acnes (almost stridenily): To him! No. I tell you no. I thought I was coming to you. I won’t stand it. I’ve gone through enough up on earth. My conscience eating into me like vitriol, scratching lines and smudging shadows into my face. Bates: Well, the dope didn’t help things any either. AGNES (softly): Ah, the dope. It brought me peace and sweet dreams of you, John—and—it was always there asa symbol of escape. (Slowly and signifi- cantly toward the audience.) An over- dose can kill so easily, John. We must run away. I can’t bear to look into Paul’s eyes again. They torture me. They are so trusting—so—so accusing in their pale innocence. I can’t face him. You must take me away. Now. Quick before he comes back, John. (Pleading and commanding, she stands close to him.) Bates (stands stolidly, right front, but his face is working. He shakes his head negatively): It wouldn’t be right. He’s my pal, Aggie. AGNES (coaxingly): Oh, John, it will mean so much less suffering in the end. He’s bound to find out sooner or later. Let’s go quietly—quickly—now! I tell you I can’t face his eyes—and I came down to hell for you, John—Id do any- thing—for—you—I’d_ go through any- thing for you. I’m the only one you've Sure; I | ever really loved! We’re not responsible for our love. The moment I saw you, John, I knew there was no use fighting against it. (Slowly, pleadingly.) And you said I was a magnet drawing you. ‘Faster.) We didn’t ask each other questions. I didn’t care who you were or what you were. I only knew we wanted each ‘other, John. We were meant for each other. You can’t desert me now. You’ve got to take me away. (She leans against him seductively and moves her fingers up his arm.) Please, John— don’t you remember those nights down on the dock—the warm darkness-—no stars—just the rhythmic beating of the waves, John—and the throbbing of our hearts. (She has slipped her arm about his neck and has her mouth close to his car. IIe begins to weaken. Plaintively.) You will take me, John— (low.) You will—take me? Yes? You will? You will? Bates (dike a man submitting to a power beyond his control): Yes. (He gathers her passionately to him and kisses her.) Come, let’s go—quick. (They start out.) KNox (calling from the other room): 1 haven’t forgotten you. Tea’s almost ready. I’mcomirg right away. (Bares starts and draws away from AGNES coming down to left front, struck by a grim rec- ollection.) AGNES: Why, what is it? Quick! Let’s go before he comes. Bates (miserably and dismally re- signed): I forgot— (Ie shakes his head slowly.) ‘There’s no place to go—that’s part of the punishment. You're fixed. You can’t run off—anywhere—in hell! (Te throws himself upon the bench, as if giving up. AGNES (stands center stage rooted with horror at the thought, and whispers with a ghastly expression on her face.) Fixed! (Knox enters bearing tray with teapot, cups, biscuits, et cetera, and sets the tray down on the table.) Knox: Not very dainty, I’m afraid, Agnes, dear—but rigorous simplicity is the keynote in this place. Now that you’ve come, however, dear, we can expect something really attractive. (He looks toward BAtes, who sits facing audi- ence.) Eh, Bates? Oh, bring a chair over. Suppose you sit here, Agnes? (He pulls out chair at table for her, so that she will be seated between them, facing audience. KNox is at AGNEs’s right. Bates at her left.) Wm sorry vour friend hasn’t come, Bates. I wonder what's delayed her. Bates: I dunno. Maybe they found they had made a mistake—and sent her on to heaven. They say it’s just a toss- up whether some folks go to heaven or hell, anvhow. Hah! think of the angels throwing up a golden coin, and calling, “Heads, heaven; tails, hell!” (/7e laughs.) AGNES (shuddering): Please! Bates: Oh, sorry, I’m sure, ma‘am. Knox: Did he tell you that joke, Agnes? AGNES: What joke?—oh, about the mix-up—the Jig? Knox: No; about the artist. AGNEs: No, we got—to talking about the Jig—and (suddenly looking at KNox, who isn’t at the moment looking at her.) What is the explanation of it all, Paul? Surely you know now. Knox (loohing very serious. The atmos- phere becomes tense—unearthly—still.): No, that’s the frightening thing. A year has gone by and we know nothing yet. There are, of course, rumors afloat. But there’s really been no explanation. sates (frightened by the unknown, his voice low): Yeh, that’s the biggest hell— not knowing arything—if they would just tellus. A man can stand anything- if he knows. AGNES (slowly, in a low, strained voice How long are we in for? Knox: They say ‘‘ Fternity.” AGNES: How long is eternity? Knox: Another riddle. Perhaps cons and eons of years. (AGNES’s face works unhappily.) Sometimes an eternity 1s in one kiss. A brief dream may be an eternity, or a guilty thought. Bates (grimly and defiantly): It’s forever and ever and there’s no way out. That’s what it is. (He rises and walks to the other side of the room and pulls out a cigaret. AGNES has become more and more nervous.) i Bates (calling back as he lights his cigaret): It’s the crazy people that are the lucky ones. Knox: But even they have had dreams. Haven’t you heard them scream (A little cry from AGNES as she moves restlessly.) i Knox: Oh, my dear, forgive us !0r talking of gruesome things. And our tea is getting cold. Will you pour it? And, oh, I had forgotten. (Je gets dried jasmine from the book.) Look! (Concluded on page 150)

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for OCTOBER 1927 2. Rose Leaf Cleansing Cream Four sizes $1.00, $2.00, $3.50, $6.00 1. Smoothskin Cream Three sizes $1.50, $3.00, $5.00 3. Balsam Astringent Two sizes $2.50, $4.00 Two sizes $1.25, $3.00 4. Primrose House Skin Freshener “HERE DWELLS YOUTH” ae JAS 7. 6. Chiffon Face Powder In boxes $3.50 5. Face Molding Cream Three sizes $1.50, $3.00, $5.00 Let bimvrose House help lo LUGr J Tse" oe — lo ee Se 4 OO" ee & é > To be young and beautiful throughout the years! That is the dream of every woman. But she who truly values beauty must be extremely careful in her choice of cos- metics. Every preparation that is applied to her skin must be scientifically compounded of purest ingredients. Primrose House is a veritable institute of beauty. It is conducted by a group of ex- perts that have devoted many years of research to the problem of retaining youth’s radiance in the face. It is not possible to buy purer, finer ingre- dients than are used in the various Primrose Pteparations. And they are blended and compounded with the utmost care, each for a specific purpose. This group of beauty culturists maintains Primrose House salon at 3 East 52nd Street, New York. Here, just around the corner from Fifth Avenue, come the smartest women of society. They come here regu- larly for the world-famous Primrose House face molding treatments and they use Primrose House preparationsin their homes. A carefully selected list of department and drug stores represent Primrose House throughout the country. You may pur- chase any of the Primrose preparations from them or direct from Primrose House. 2-3 PRIMROSE HOUSE =~ ss — that precious diff of youth Send for Free Instruction in the ‘Primrose Method “Here Dwells Youth” is a scientific book- let on the care of the skin which we will send gladly by mail. It describes the various treatments, administered by the registered nurses at Primrose House and lists all Primrose House preparations and their uses. PRIMROSE HOUSE, 3 East 52nd Street, New York one Please send me your free booklet, “‘ Here Dwells Youth.” I enclose check or money order for $.........ssssssecee00000 Please send me Primrose preparation Nos............. Name.... i cisnilbihanicitiet “eitnednaintenducnasielcsbainlaaiiis Be dekcchncnnticacccietitiiich

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150 ant *Stey 10 East 55% ot —- * 9) - i... a ‘ r a Graped i hite Satin OCvening S ress — Brown Velvet Coal lined with Poach Charmeuse and . . ‘ g « irimmed with Drown sox AGNES (pausing in pouring the tea): What is it? Knox: The little flower you gave me when we were first in love. (He stands behind her lovingly. She fingers it trem- blingly. She and Bares steal a miserable glance at each other.) Remember? AGNes: Oh, oh, yes. How sweet of you to keep it. (He leans over to look into her face. She turns her head away.) Knox: Look at me, dear. AGNES (putting him off): Just a moment (reaching for her hand-bag). must look a fright. I haven’t even powdered my nose. (She fumbles in the bag. Knox gently places his hand over the vanity.) Knox: Youdon’tneed that. Look at me, dear. I haven’t really had a good look at you since you came. (le tenderly tries to draw her face toward him. She shivers.) AGNEs: It’s so cold in here, Paul. Knox: I'll close the window. (//e goes to the window.) (AGNES in a fit of nervous trembling takes out the silver container with the dope and with a look of desperation on her face shakes the whole contents into KNox’s cup. Then she begins to powder her nose. The men return to their places. AGNES looks at KNox with growing dread. BATES re- turns to the table and takes up his tea-cup.) KNox (trying to be cheerful, stirring his fea): You see, it isn’t so bad down here— things are much the same as in life. There is just no color here. A great drabness sobers everything. You'll get used to it. (He drinks.) You have to make adjustments. You can’t change anything—it’s too late for that. But you can get used to doing without things— without the perfume of life—like this poor little jasmine flower— But how sweet are the dried memories it symbol- izes! (Here he finishes his tea.) It all depends on how you take it here. Do you remember Hamlet’s line: There’s nothing either good or bad but thinking makes it so? (AGNES has become more and more nervous.) AGNES (half rising): Paul, the tea is so strong—will you get some hot water? Knox: Why, certainly, dear—I for- got. (He goes out.) (AGNES rises and begins to breathe hard. She walks down left making inarticulate noises and places the back of her hand over her mouth as if to stifle some emotional agony.) Bates: Why, what’s the matter? HARPER’S BAZAR THE DANCE BELOW (Concluded from page 148) Acnes: I—I—Oh, my God— Bates (following her. Both of them are down stage): Yor heaven’s sake, what’s the matter with you! You look ill, Acnes: John, I couldn’t stand it any longer—I couldn’t face eternity. And JT gave him the dope—all of it—I sent him out of the room on purpose. I—I’ve killed him—and I couldn’t bear to see him die. Bates (astonished, backing away from her): You gave him all the dope. You —you’ve killed him! (With rising bitter- ness he comes toward her and grasping her by the shoulder, roughly, he wheels her about to face him.) The God Almighty nerve of it! (Contemptuously.) You kill- ing a man like him. I won’t stand for it, I tell you. (He catches her by the throat.) You killing him! (He shakes her violently and forces her to her knees.) AcNES (calling out): I couldn’t stand his eyes, I tell you. (Screaming.) John, don’t kill me! (At the word “kill” he throws her on to the floor. Her beads break and scatter. He laughs as once again he grimly recollects.) Bates: Kill you! What a pair of fools we are. J can’t kill you. You're already dead— Yow can’t kill Knox— He’s already dead. You're dead. I’m dead. We are all dead. You can’t die but once. That’s part of the Jig. (Bitterly.) WE'RE FIXED! (AGNES is on the floor gasping. She looks up toward the audience horrified at the inevitability of the situation. KNox enters.) Knox: Why, what’s up? (He hastily puts the hot water on the table and comes behind the two as BATES stoops and begins searching for the lost beads. AGNES rises.) Bates: Your wife broke her beads. (BATES rises.) Knox (laughs): Broke her beads? Why, I thought something terrible had happened. I thought she screamed. Agnes was always breaking her beads up on earth. (BATES rises as KNOX stoops down between them.) If this doesn’t seem too funny—down here—looking on the floor for beads. (He looks up toward audience.) Isn’t it amazing how much like the earth this place is? Hell zs just life over again, isn’t it? AGNES (facing audience bitterly and utterly broken): Exactly. Bates (smiling grimly facing audience): Exactly. Knox (dreamily): Exactly. (Ccrtary) Note: The acting rights in this play are reserved by the authors, to whom application should be made if permission to perform it is desired. —KEv1tTor. SUMMARY OF THE MODE (Concluded from page 87) least one evening model in most collec- tions, usually in draped-to-one-hip gowns. LACE: Lace is well represented in the evening mode, thread lace, silk, and metal being seen. Small designs are invariable. CHIFFON: Many chiffon gowns of the same type as those we have been wearing, usually in pale colors or in black. But they are not so universal for evening as they were. Some ciré chiffons are used in black. TULLE: Evening frocks of tulle, usu- ally in frills, are everywhere. CREPES: Quantities of crépe frocks, completing ensembles, with coats which may be of velvet or of soft woolens. WOOLENS: For sports, wool jersey, new tricots, mixtures, tweeds often of quite large design and mixed colors, a heavy cheviot and Rodier’s diagonals (Lanvin), kashas, homespuns. For street, broadcloth, soft surfaced woolens, such as velours de laine, the new gold-shot materials from Rodier and Meyer. SLEEVES SLEEVES are important in several collections. There is an effort to get away from the long plain sleeve. in evening coats, particularly, they are often enormous. Sometimes made of fur when the rest of the wrap is cloth (Vionnet). COLLARS AND NECK-LINES There are some high collars, but the majority of models have open or con- vertible necks. The square neck-line 1s increasingly important. In the evening décolletés are more generous. The deep V in the back is newer than the deep oval. Deauville handkerchiefs appeat with sports models and even Wl evening gowns. The newest are of the same material as the gown. A new little handkerchief collar is seen. Cravattes are important at many houses. Scarf collars are still good, the scarf usually attached. |

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for OCTOBER £927 POLE NE LEE SS ERM RS AE oe THE New AUTUMN STOCKING oT uw or a wt @® Ss hw DOD KR ee YY OS Mist o Blue Lovely as the night is Mist 0’ Blue, with its blending tones of blue and black, and a stock- ing bewitchingly new. Sheer as the mist that veils the modest moon, and as constant, in its service, as the evening star. Just the sort of a stocking you would expect from Peck & Peck, so different, so beautiful, so in keeping with the “blue mode” of the Autumn season. It is priced at $3.75. AND ALSO THREE NEW SHOPS TO SERVE YOU In Boston now, at 17-19 Arlington Street, close by the Ritz, there’s a new Peck & Peck shop to welcome you. And in Detroit, as well, at 1250 Washington Boulevard. New York, too, has five Peck & Peck shops where there were but four before, the fifth having just been opened in the National Broadcasting Building, at Fifth Avenue and Fifty-fifth Street. Not forgetting two shops in Chicago. There’s a new Portfolio of the Stocking and Sport Mode just off the press that will be sent you, gladly, on request. PECK& PECK NEW YORK CHICAGO 8 BOSTON DETROIT

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Leading jewelers who take part in The Brides’ Exposition of Modern Sterling will display the above card, in colors, in their windows. May we suggest that you look for it, both as a guide to the proper stores and as an announcement of the opening of the Exposition? Seville Lady Constance La Fayette Mary Chilton erling Aver Cackusinily HARPER’S BAZAR 1927’s LOVELIEST SILVER e a Oxposition O An adventure in beauty for brides—and for all women who love exquisitely wrought Sterling! Dur- ing these next few weeks the leading jewelers in your OUR jeweler’s shop will overflow with treasures. Sparkling knives and forks and spoons—engaging dishes, and bowls of countless uses with gorgeous tea services to match! You could not ask a more perfect oppor- tunity to start or complete your wedding set of silver—this precious solid silver that is going to last your lifetime! American silversmiths are today creating patterns of distinguished beauty far beyond the capacities of even such grand old New Englanders as Hull and Winslow and the Moultons of Colonial days. As only one example, you will see Towle patterns which express the complex spirit of our age with all the genuine artistry that characterized the finest work of Towle’s THE SEVILLE PATTERN—TOWLE Newest of Towle Sterling Silver Patterns in time and inspira- tion! By its simplicity and grace of contours, this Seville pat- tern expresses for the first time in Solid Silver a real touch of the personality of the modern American girl. The ornament, delicate as filigree, was adapted from the decoration on a rare old Spanish family chest called the vargueno (var-gayn-yo). craft-ancestors, the Moultons, who began in Newburyport, Massachusetts, in 1690. But they express this modern spirit with a craftsmanship and finish which surpass the work of those earlier and simpler periods, How Towle patterns exemplify the fine points of modern designing When your jeweler discusses with you the fine points of modern silvercraft, he will almost surely illustrate some of them with Towle patterns, for these inevitably consti- tute a generous part of nearly every leading jeweler’s display. He may show you the unique softness of finish on a Louis XIV fork or a Seville teapot—a lustre like the patina on price- Re So ea

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ll for OCTOBER 1927 WILL BE DISPLAYED IN 7 i: Shor ing city are going to place on special display their finest selections of solid silver as part of a National Exposition of Modern American Silversmithing. less old maple or mahogany. This.is char- acteristic of Towle alone. Or he may hand you a Virginia Carvel spoon so that you can sense its pleasing balance. Or a Lady Constance knife that you may appreciate the comfortable “feel” of the handle in your palm. Your jeweler will probably go on to show you with what artistry the modern silversmith adapts his flat silver designs to dishes and bowls and teapots—for to- day’s good form requires perfect harmony throughout one’s silver table service. Per- haps you are not aware that Towle sterling silver dishes are unique—each is shaped and proportioned in such a way that it can be used for a variety of purposes. And Sterling never wears out, because it is solid silver all through. THE LOUIS XIV PATTERN—TOWLE One of the most admired patterns in contemporary American Sterling. France at her finest creative period lent the magnifi- cent Louis Quatorze motifs. These have been refined and modernized by the Towle designers who have adapted them to both flat silver and the matching bowls and dishes with an effect that is altogether distinguished and charming. To assist your appreciation of the Exposition— The Book of Solid Silver May we suggest that before the Exposition opens, you read The Book of Solid Silver? This charming little blue-and-ivory vol- ume, newly published by Towle, contains a mine of general information; on Crafts- manship; How to Care for Sterling Silver; the Etiquette of Table Arrangement; and a fascinating new plan chart for planning your set, piece by piece, so that it will meet your individual needs in entertaining. Please ask us for The Book of Solid Silver. THE TOWLE SILVERSMITHS Newburyport, Massachusetts Member Sterling Silversmiths’ Guild of America ———E) This charming 24-page book —for you. Bound in boards —blue and ivory and silver— The Book of Solid Silver (price at retail $1.00) richly illus- trated with designs and table settings, is available now for a nominal charge of 25 cents (stamps or coin) to cover mailing and handling costs. Louis XIV D’ Orleans Virginia Carvel Lady Mary THE TOWLE SILVERSMITHS Newburyport, Massachusetts I enctose 25 cents gy or coin) and the name of my jeweler. Please send me The Book of Solid Silver. NAME _ - ADDRESS —EEE — Jeweler’s Name — C-10

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154 s oR ACE P owvt® WITCHINGLY FRAGH* pourlhunns dliorsony 17 RUE DE LA PAIX-PARIS my 697 FIFTH AVENUE -NEW YORK 120-150 RUE ST PAUL- QUEBEC HARPER’S BAZAR MANY MANSIONS (Continued from page 109) distinguished crash. It went to pieces at the end of its rolling plunge with a rending and a smashing worthy of a real car, The people in the important-looking house heard it and came running out. The women wore tortoise-shell combs in their hair and bright shawls. ... One of them had very little feet. She was the first to get to him. She had run like the wind. They were jolly people. When they found how very little he was hurt they laughed at him. The girl who had the brightest shawl and the littlest feet thrust her arm through his and tugged him toward the house. It was a superb house of its kind. The builder had decided just what rooms were needed, and, using local materials, had enclosed these appointed spaces in the simplest and least pretentious way possible. He had used soft chalk rock and adobe clay. He had made the walls four feet thick so that the house should be cool in the summer and warm in winter. The roof was heavily laid with red tiles so that sparks from the chimney could never set the house on fire. The house was built around a court- yard. There was a well in the courtyard, and a stone oven for barbecuing meat. There was a fig tree and a fuchsia tree. There were heavy oak chairs and benches. There was a barrel of red wine. There were potato vines, and Australian maiden- hair vines, and scarlet passion vines, and heliotrope, and the modest, sweet- scented trailer which the Spanish call the “good herb.” OW that the rain had stopped and the moon had pushed the clouds aside, the night was warm and sweet- scented. In all his experience Esperacion could not recall another night so perfect for being out-of-doors—or indoors. Fat old Sefiora Rosamonte and her daughter (the girl with the brightest shawl and the littlest feet) had taken him into the bedroom of Don Pedro Rosamonte to dress the cut on his head. It wasn’t much of a cut but they made a heavenly fuss over it. They cooed like two pigeons. For the real business of bandaging, Sefiora Rosamonte, giggling and saying that nobody must tell, tore up a certain garment of exceedingly fine linen. But she camouflaged this with a bandanna of blood-red silk. Then the Sefiorita Dulce (it means sweetmeats in English or some- thing very like it) dashed off to her brother’s room and returned with a fine plaited linen shirt and a pair of black velvet trousers, wide at the bottom and embroidered with silver, and a short black velvet jacket to match. He was still a little weak and groggy from his fall, so the old woman sent Dulce out of the room and helped him to dress. He mustn’t mind her, she said. She was used to the boys, she had born twelve of them into the world, not to mention eight girls, of whom Dulce was the last. “‘ And are they all alive, Sefiora?”’ asked Esperacion politely, and received an answer which astonished him. Tugging at the little jacket to make it set right she said, as if she were really giving thanks for a blessing: ‘‘Mercy be to God—no.” Esperacion felt a delicacy about pursu- ing the subject. But the Sefiora did not. “To be born is sometimes a question- able blessing,” she said, “but there can be no question about death.” “By all account,” said “it is a blissful state.” “You have been properly brought up,” said the Sefiora, “‘it is. And now stand off there and turn around slowly. .. Yes, you will do. The clothes become you, and you become them... . Dulce! Esperacion, ULCE seemed to have been lingering yery close to the door. She entered at once. And upon perceiving Esperacion clapped her hands together, andexclaimed: “1 saw him first!” “That,” said her mother, “is not strictly true. But let it pass. I did happen to be looking from a window at the very moment when the Sejfior’s fate overtook him. ... But let it pass.” *‘Sefior,”’ said Dulce, “‘even if I didn’t see you first, I have a right to ask your name.” “T am Esperacion Morales,” said Es- peracion, “an orphan with little to recommend me.” “My poor dear orphan,” said Dulce, “my mother will echo me in this question: Have you ever, by any chance, looked at yourself in the glass?” It seemed that Esperacion had; but without noticing anything particular about himself one way or another. “But then,” he added, “‘I never saw myself in such a fine suit of clothes.” ““Come then,” said Dulce, “and we'll let the others see you.” The largest room in the adobe, as was true of all Spanish California houses of the same period, had a wooden floor for dancing. It was made of a dark wood from the Philippines, and the candles were reflected in it as in a pool of water, There were innumerable candles. “Tt is wonderful to dance on,” said Dulce. “Whenever it is waxed, the children wrap polishing clothes about their feet and play a game of sliding . . . shall we dance?” ’ HE cut on the top of Esperacion’s head no longer troubled him, and the strong rhythm of the guitars seemed to strengthen his muscles. His _ nerves tingled with joyousness. They were the handsomest couple present. In a whole room full of flashing eyes it was their eyes which flashed the most brightly. They resembled two flowers. Dulce’s proud tender flashing eyes seemed to say: “He is mine. I was the first to see him. Woe be to her who tries to take him from me.” And Esperacion’s seemed to say: “T am the last of a long race of ccn- querors. Resist me who can!” But he didn’t feel like that. He merely felt pleased as Punch and young and happy. “This,” he thought, “is better than putting up with a bunch of caddies. This is even better than a room and bath at the Hotel Del Monte. If the guitar instead of the harp were the national instrument of heaven, I might even fancy ... at least, I have my arm around an angel.” She was the first woman that he had ever loved. It had come over him, that loving feeling, wave after wave, while she was tugging him to the house after the accident. He wished to live for her and to die for her. Their eyes met suddenly with a strong mutual infatuation. Esperacion’s arm tightened about her waist. ** Are you married?” she asked. “No,” said he, ‘‘but I hope to be.” “T’m not married either,” said she, “but I am going to be.” “When?” “As soon as may be, after the man I love has asked me.” “And when is he going to ask you?” **Soon.” The rhythm of the guitars demanded a swifter dancing. And they whirled twice the length of the room, whirled and stamped, with what appeared to be a series of sudden repudiations and sudden reconciliations, without speaking another word. They were wound up to dance thus forever. But the music stopped. “Take me out into the patio,” said Dulce. THERS were before them, filling glasses of wine from the barrel. Even in the moonlight the wine looked the color of blood. “Tt’s a funny, thing,” said Esperacion, ‘that I have lived in and about Monterey all my life, and never noticed this house before. I could have sworn that there was a ruin on this hill—just some old , crumbling adobe walls—some broken tiles—a stone well-head—” “Boys aren’t interested in houses. You would remember a horse that you (Concluded on page 158)

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ZR 1927 OCTOBE for op aeEa tas a ht t 4, ots REST 8 seating shoe Fea gare _ ae Ne ijada Reale of Paul Lamerie, fo ladelph l Ph A NEW BOOK CALDWELL &CO. i J ired remost sil ver-~ tcative d. was insp 1s nd, It aracter o fashio it the early 18th century ch the work bof al Th is tea set, by smit ilver and Old Sheffield Plate” “Facts Concerning Antique English S in the sil verware, de available a nd al of the qu will be forwarded upon request. by nstantly ma co ? antique an

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156 A New FashionzNote in Cosmetics! “Your make-up—your bag—vyour gloves your jewels and other accessories”... says all chic Paris today, ‘‘must strike a har- monizing colour chord!”’ Helena Rubinstein recently created the new flair which has set all Paris agog! Make-up, in vari-colored cases to harmonize with the key- note of each costume! To provide a choice of shades that will go with any costume . . . Helena Rubinstein has encased the new “Water-Lily” vanity and lipsticks in CHINESE-RED—JADE- GREEN — JET-BLACK — GOLDEN and SILVERED tones! VALAZE “WATER-LILY” COMBINATION SET Tres Chic! Matched double compact and lipstick in cases to go with your costume! So } dictates! Set s of Cur ve Jave-Gazen Jer specially ft 4 Very Valaze Water Lily Cream—a cleansing and rejuvenating cream of rare, exotic excellence keeps complexion youthful, exquisitely fine, soft-toned and entrancingly smooth.- 2.50 Valaze Cream of Lilies — an alluring whitening base for make-up — semi-liquid — keeps 1.50 N SMART CIRCLES today— the use of make-up is unani- mously taken-for-granted! Every- one, it seems, is now adding a sophisticated hint of brilliance to eyes, cheeks, lips! Chic femininity has come to real- ize, more and more, that fine, pure make-up, properly used, not only lends youth and vivacity to the face, but serves, to a degree, as a protective veiling from the infiltration of dust—from the coars- ening effects of wind and weather. One fact is especially apparent HARPER’S BAZAR Your Makezup is What you make it! Helena &R ubinstein among les elégantes—a growing appreciation for art in make-up. Vague undertones of rouge! Clever accenting of lips and lashes! Subtle color harmonies for daytime and evenings! What is more, by restricting them- selves to finely-balanced creams, lotions and cosmetics that har- monize with the skin, as well as with each other—and by clearing the pores scrupulously each night —these sirens of today succeed in preserving their beauty far be- yond the stipulated years of youth! ‘gs (} - “QU aler- Ll ahevnp f) a er li ) resented for t a lime aux chic LY ee a YOU SOPHISTICATES who al- ways look to Helena Rubinstein for the finest of beauty preparations— for the last word in make-up! YOU CONNOISSEURS who te- spond instantly to a super-achieve- ment in toiletries! YOU YOUTHFUL INITIATES who clamor to know what’s what in the world of chic! ALL OF YOU will be keenly in- ” terested in the new “Water-Lily powder, lipstick and v the greatest of beauty-specialists, Helena Rubinstein, is now adding to her famous line of cosmetic masterpieces! Into each of these new creations, Mme. Rubinstein has blended pul- verized water-lily buds . . . the same rare, youth-giving, skin-freshening element that distinguishes her fa- mous Valaze ‘‘Water-Lily” Cream. VALAZE “WATER-LILY” LIPSTICK The epitome of chic! Two new shades—" Red Ruby”—rich, spark ling perfect for brunettes, ideal daytime shade for everyone—* Red Cardinal” — gay, dazzling — pre- for rred by blondes, an exquisite evening shade for all. In the smartest of swivel cases—Cninest- Rep, Jape-Gaeen or Jer- Brack. 1.25. The Perfect foundation for your make-up \ BEAUTIFUL SKIN— listing the aid of your powder and rouge delightfully adherent — leaves skin soft, dazzling. “‘Water-Lily” Procure the neu PARIS 52 Rue du Fg. St. Honore CHICAGO: 30N. Michigan Blvd, BOSTON : 234 Boylston St. PHILADELPHIA: 254 So. 16thSt. VALAZE “ WATER-LILY * POWDER Gossamer-fine, delightfully clinging, imparts an ethereal, transparent delicacy. Two Brexps— (a) for dry skins, (b) for normal or oily skins. Four Tixnts—White, Rachel, Natural, Cream. In a striking box of Chinese-Red with golden Spires. Matchless among powders priced at 1.50, -satin-smooth, youthful, delicately transparent and unlined— is the ideal foundation for make-up. Cultivate it by daily care and protection, en- VALAZE “WATER-LILY” VANITY Sirverep 3.00. \-s “Back, 2.00. make-up and other Rubinstein creations at leading stores—or order direct from New York, Dept. H-10a Nelena Reebin Hein 46 West 57th Street, New York City LONDON 24 Grafton Street, W. I. NEWARK: 951 Broad Street Very distinctive! Slim—square-shaped —supremely Parisian! Filled with Water-Lily rouge and powder com- pacts in subtly flattering tints. Polished steel mirror that magnifies —unbreak- able! Stunning in Cutnese-Rep, Jape- Green, Jet-Brack at 2.50. GoLpen- Also sing gle po nwder -compact or sin gle sifter in Cuinese-‘Rep, Jape-G SREEN, —_) DETROIT: 1540 Washington Blvd. NEWPORT: 176 Bellevue Avenue for a L | ar

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for OCTOBER 1927 Salvaging Your — Beauty | POST-SUMMER SUGGESTIONS —for your daily beautifying ritual! Cleanse—Y outhify Valaze Water Lily Cream—most luxuri- ous of all cleansing creams—contains a youth-giving essence of water-lily buds. Keeps complexion exquisitely _ fine, soft- toned, smooth. (2.50, 4.00) Clear—Bleach Valaze Beautifying Skinfood—the skin- clearing masterpiece — animates, bleaches mildly, creates exquisite delicacy. Use al- ways—an ideal companion to all other Rubinstein preparations. (1.00, 2.50 Tan— Freckles—Sallowness Valaze Bleaching Cream—a mild whiten- er—clears away tan, light freckles, sallow- ness and all moderate signs of outdoor exposure. (1.00, 2.00) Valaze Freckle Cream—most effective for effacing obstinate freckles or a stubborn coat of tan. Freshens and tones up the skin. (1.50, 2.50) Refresh—Rejuvenate Valaze Emmailline — a bracing cream— mildly astringent—for normal, oily and temperamental skins—quickly dispels signs of “‘skin-fatigue’’. 1.75, 3.530) Valaze Extrait —a gentle, amazingly ef- fective anti-wrinkle lotion for all skins. Absorbs *‘tired look’’—keeps delicate skins smooth and youthful. (2.50, 5.00) Lines—Wrinkles—Crows feet Valaze Grecian Anti-Wrinkle Cream (Anthosoros) —richly nourishing — cor- rects crowsfeet, lines, wrinkles. (1.75, 3.50) HAIR BEAUTY, TOO Valaze Herbal Shampoo—(a) for dry scalps; (b) for normal or oily scalps—cleanses thoroughly, stimulates—brings out natural glow Also Valaze Hair Tonics, Dandruff and lustre of 007 (1.00). Lotions, Scalp Food and Brilliantine. After a glorious summer out-of-doors—a careful survey of your facial needs becomes strictly imperative! ESPITE ALL WARNINGS—the fair world of femininity, for the most part, has permitted summer to tamper ruthlessly with its beauty. Sguint lines at the eyes, freckles, tan, open pores and coarsened skins proclaim a reckless, carefree season! And now all are eager to regain their erstwhile beauty, and to enhance it, too— for the competitive social swirl of autumn. To quickly obliterate all signs of summer exposure, HELENA RUBINSTEIN, foremost beauty specialist, comes to the rescue with gently effective bleaches—with an anti-wrinkle cream—with pore refiners and with stimulating, freshening creams and lotions to counteract “skin-fatigue’”’ and to revive a note of sparkling freshness in summer-fagged skins. FOR YOU WHO CAN VISIT THE RUBINSTEIN SALONS Special Post-Summer Beauty Treatments may be had in the charming and exotic atmosphere of your nearest Rubinstein salon—to quickly clear and bleach the skin —to remove sallowness, tan and freckles—to youthify and beautify both the complexion and the facial con- tour. Come in—at your leisure—for advice and treat- ments. Or better still, telephone for an appointment! world’ s o ° & * B* i ct th * e t* tt et et * - - - - - - - - + . - - - » ™ an -— a a a an a ~ -— a — CHIC FINISHING TOUCHES — for a subtle and distinctive make-up! Valaze Cream of Lilies—an alluring, whitening foundation to keep make-up delightfully adherent and to protect the skin. (1.50) Valaze Powders— Complexion, for aver- age or oily skins—Novena, for dry skins— exquisitely fine and clinging—subtly shad- ed—in Rachel, White, Cream, Natural, Mauresque and Blush. (1.00 to 5.50) Valaze Rouges—Red Raspberry (the orig- inal and only authentic raspberry rouge), becoming to every type: Red Geranium- vivid, youthful, adorable for blondes; Compact (1.00), en Creme (1.00, 2.00, 5.00). Crushed Rose Leaves—charmingly natural. Compact. (1.00) Valaze Lipsticks—made on the protective base of Pasteurized Face Cream—in shades to harmonize with rouges: Red Geranium, the lipstick all Paris is using! Red Rasp- berry, fight, medium and dark. (1.00, 1.50) Vivid Valaze Vanities Valaze Double Compact—smartest of all Vanities—conveniently small yet holds more than ordinary compacts—stunnin Chinese-Red container. (1.50 Valaze Midget Double Compact—Silver- ed for evening or exotic Chinese-Red. (1.50) Valaze Powder Compact — extremely thin Chinese-Red (1.00); Silvered (1.25) Valaze Powder Sifter —Chinese Red or Silvered. 1.50) INDIVIDUAL BEAUTY DIAGNOSIS For a decidedly clever and ‘helpful analysis of your own personal beauty needs—write at once to Helena Rubinstein at her New York address for FACE. CHART H-1o0... or HAIR CHART-H-10. The exquisite Rubinstein beauty creations are dispensed by trained and competent advisers at all the better stores, or may be ordered direct from Dept. H-10 PARIS 52 Rue du Fg. St. Honore CHICAGO: 30N. Michigan Blvd. BOSTON: 234 Boylston St. PHILADELPHIA: 254 So. 16th St. 46 West 57th Street, New York City Nelena RebinFlein LONDON 24 Grafton Street, W. I. DETROIT: 1540 Washington Blvd. NEWARK: 951 Broad Street NEWPORT: 176 Bellevue Avenue me If

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MANY HARPER’S BAZAR MANSIONS (Concluded from page 154) had seen on a hill, or a lion, or a grizzly bear—but a house—never.” “Tf ’dseenyou. .. .” “But you didn’t. And as it is you only look at me every now and then.” “Do you think that I want to be blinded? ... Seforita....” “Senor?” “You and your mother have been kind to me—with the kindness of angels. But I don’t know your name.”’ Dulce laughed. “How ridiculous,” she said, ‘“‘we haven't introduced you to ourselves or to anybody else. Well, mother is Senora Rosamonte and I am Dulce Rosamonte. ... The very tall gentleman who is looking at the moon through his glass of wine is my father, Don Pedro Rosa- monte....” And one by one she named the whole company to him. And to those who were near she introduced him. [Esperacion was a little puzzled. Some of the faces seemed familiar to him; but he could not swear that he had ever seen any one particular face before. Doubt- less the guests had come from far. One thing was sure. They all had wonderfully happy faces. . But then it seemed to be an occasion—a fancy-dress party. And always for an occasion, when some- body has been at pains about the supper, and the music, polite people always do their best to look happy. All of Espera- cion’s mentors, including the good and scholarly Father Mestres, had agreed about this. | different. He

But he had never seen Dulce before. He was sure of that. If he ever had seen her before, his whole life would have been wouldn’t have drifted from one job to another. He wouldn’t have wasted the savings of a lifetime on a flivver. He wouldn’t have fled from other women. He would have laughed at them. His life would have had a purpose. He would have studied the law, and saved innocent people from being fined, and imprisoned and hanged. And the first thing he knew he was speaking his thoughts aloud. “Tf I had met you when I was eight- een,” he said, ‘I would now be a man with a roof of my own over my head, and money in the bank, and three clean shirts a week. Everything would be different.” “But,” said Dulce, “everything is different. And everything is going to go on being different. Do you think I care if the roof over you is only the sky— if your gold is only in your heart—and— never mind about the other things.” HE guitars had struck up and drawn the company back to the dance floor. Only Dulce and Esperacion remained in the patio. Between them there was a charged and troubled silence. “‘Sefiorita,”’ said Esperacion. rita Dulce. . . .” “What are you going to say now?” “T am going to say that if you will not let me say what is in my heart, my heart will burst my breast, and I shall fall dead at your feet.” “Then by all means speak quickly what is in your heart. But don’t look as if you were going to eat me up.” “‘T have never loved anybody before. I shall never love anybody else. But the **Sefio- | love that I have for you is like a fire, and

yet I want you to tell me tokeep on burn- ing. I have nothing to offer you, except this love. . . . Will you marry me?”’ “Father Duarte is expected a little before midnight... .” “Gh, Dake. ..<" And for a long time against the wall of the house there was but one shadow, where there had been two before. There was a great cackle and to-do when the priest arrived. There had been a great replacement of candles and a mulling and spicing of wine in copper vessels. Dulce had been taken to her mother’s room and invested from head to foot in an ancestral veil of Venetian lace. Somebody had found an orange tree ip blossom and made a bouquet for the bride to carry. An altar had been jim- provised and covered with crimson brocade and set with many candles. [speracion was so happy that he was half numb with it. He pinched himself to see if he were awake. He was so rattled and excited that he could neither think nor see clearly. They were standing before the priest. Esperacion could not see the priest’s face clearly. It was like a face seen under water. Esperacion felt dizzy and a little sick. What if it was only a dream? The ceremony was very short, simple and touching. . They were standing side by side, and the men, young and old, were all kissing Dulce’s hand. She had pushed back her veil. And Esperacion knew that he had never seen any face so beautiful. They were alone. They could hear the far-off sounds of the guitars and of the dancing. The room in which they were alone was very simple and sweet and white and clean like a monk’s cell. Es- peracion walked slowly to the door of the room. He walked unsteadily as if he had been drinking too much. But he was not drunk with wine. He was drunk with bliss—and fear. He bolted the door. T FIRST he knew only that he was no longer happy; but only very cold and sick, and broken somewhere between his left knee and ankle, and that his face was turned upward to a gray sky from which rain fell upon it. He turned that face a little, and saw upon the top of a little hill the ruins of what had once been an important mansion. There remained only some thick fragments of crumbling walls. He groaned bitterly, and closed his eyes. Presently some laborers found him and lifted him out of the ruins of his little flivver, and took him to the hospital. He did his best to die, but the new young doctor wouldn’t let him. But it would have been wonderful to die. For he believed in his soul that death meant the music of guitars and dancing; wine that only gladdened. Beauty. ... The simple sweet room. The bolted door. Dulce. . . He got well, and went to work. He hated women more than ever and he began to save a little money. One day a friend said to him: “You sure had a narrow escape. I guess you won’t be in any hurry to own another car.” ‘“‘T’m saving up to buy one right now,” said Esperacion. One day he met Father Mestres in the street and they had a little talk. ‘“‘Father,” said Esperacion, ‘“‘did you ever hear of Father Duarte?”’ The Father had; but Father Duarte had been dead for more than fifty years. “Was there once a family in Monterey named Rosamonte?” “You can still see the ruins of their adobe. But the last member of the family died a long time ago.” Esperacion visited the old burying- ground across the lagoon from the church of San Carlos. He prowled about among the live oaks, and hunted among the tombs. After a long search he found the graves of the Rosamonte family. They were overgrown with weeds, and the head- stones leaned every which way. Dulce Rosamonte had died in the year eighteen twenty-five at the age of seven- teen years and three months. Esperacion burst into tears and sank down upon her grave. And he whispered to her through the sod: “Only wait, darling, until I get that new flivver. ... .”

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for OCTOBER 1927 ~~ FPerrw os we 70 0 © 4 \ So gallate * i a, 7) E ’ sh Sudibal my ps are head ils nol © headinas TERLING SOLID SILVER 9925/1000 Fine Advertisement

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Newark pp ~~ C QO ~ucten FOR TWO CONTINENT AS > hold towel a i o— ‘A PER Ensemble! Totality of effect! Harmony! CONCEIVED These are the touchstones of the modern fashionable woman, as far as her costume is concerned. As a Grand Couturier I long ago proclaimed that the woman of sophisticated taste would ultimately seek harmony of ensemble above all else. Today, one sees in Paris costumes marvel- lously composed, veritable creations of art. The bag, the jewelry, the minutest details of costume accessories are exquisitely in key. I myself costume my clientele thus in many instances. And whatdoI find whenI come tothe most important accessory of all—the perfume? ( Hl, Lf 2 may } low be Ray New York City FRANKLIN SIMON & COMPANY ALSO AT THE COMMODORE B. ALTMAN & COMPANY + BONWIT TELLER & C STERN BROTHERS BILTMORB L R. H. STEARNS COMPANY BAMBERGER & COMPANY Pittsburgh—jOSEPH HORNE CO. CHAS. A. STEVENS & BROTHERS O'NEILL & COMPANY MANDEL BROTHERS VON HERMANN’S PHARMACY (THE SHERMAN AND THE CONGRESS) Evanston —ROSENBERG’S HALLE BROTHERS COMPANY jJOHN VICTOR LEE Cleveland Atlanta—CHAMBERLIN-JOHNSON-DUBOSE CO. J. W. ROBINSON COMPANY . . San Diego—THE MARSTON COMPANY + Oakland—un. c. CAPW I. MAGNIN & CO., INC. + Seattle, Wash.—i. MAGNIN & CO., INC. Portland, Oregon—FRANK NAU + . Denver—DANIELS & FISHER STORES COMPANY * Detroit—HIMELHOCH BROTHERS & CO. MEIER & FRANK CO. DENVER DRY NEW YORK: 55 long, ARBITER OF FASHION >OMPANY JAY THORPE AMBASSADOR + Philadelphia—B. F. DEWEE'S RITZ CARLTON HOTEL + Baltimore—HOCHSCHILD KOHN & COMPANY + HUTZLER BROTHERS COMPANY Omaha—j. 1. BRANDEIS & SONS Dallas—NEIMAN-MARCUS CO. B. H. DYAS COMPANY (VILLE DE PARIS) J. L. HUDSON & CO. WAAAY [ UJ C j [ N LF LO N Cj | p A R j S WWIII HARPER’S BAZAR S, BY A COUTURIER F a dima i‘. FUMER Lovely in themselves, the perfumes one can PRESENTS PERFUMES buy are not conceived from the standpoint of a couturier, and have little if anything to do with the dynamic line of modern fashionable costuming. Therefore, to remain faithful to my own creed of ensemble harmony —I had to create Perfume that would complete this totality of effect. I have called them modulations A, B and C. They are the Perfumes of a Couturier. They are harmonious with the fashionable costume the . m the a LP sted LBelow KURZMAN + tendencies of today. LORD & TAYLOR + SAKS—FIFTH AVENUB JOHN WANAMAKER (NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA) PLAZA Brooklyn—ABRAHAM & STRAUS STRAWBRIDGE & CLOTHIER + Boston—k. T. SLATTERY COMPANY KAUFMANN’S Chicago—MARSHALL FIELD & COMPANY JOHN F. CARNEGIE, INC. (THE DRAKE AND THE BLACKSTONE) STEVENS HOTEL PHARMACY HOTEL LA SALLE PHARMACY Indianapolis—L.$S. AYRES & COMPANY Kansas City—EMERY, BIRD, THAYER COMPANY Los Angeles—)J. J, HAGGARTY Hollywood—MILADY’S SALON ELL COMPANY + San Francisco—uH. Ll. LADD (ST. FRANCIS HOTEL) * FREDERICK & NELSON OLDS WORTMAN & KING Tacoma—RHODES BROTHERS GOODS COMPANY + Spokane—DAVENPORT HOTEL SPORT SHOP Grand Rapids— FRIEDMAN-SPRINGS . . ane. * . 1 FIFTH AVENUE

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Al Dream of Fair Fabrics [ NOW REALIZED FOR YOU } N LY in dream have you glimpsed them before, those fabrics of indescribable perfection . . . true miracles of beauty, of practicality, of healchfulness. But today you will find them featured in the leading stores, ready to your hand. Your dream, the dream of all womankind, 1s realized in Celanese fabrics Here are hundreds of colors and weaves, from the most delicately diapha- nous of voiles to the richest and most sumptuous of satins . . . some aglow with brilliance luster, others as softly dull as pearls . . . some in solid tones, others with wonderful new brocade effects. All Celanese fabrics are perfectly washable . . . fast alike to sun, suds and perspiration. They dry with amazing rapidity, keep their shape, and never shrink Neither perspiration nor sale water can injure them. They are transparent to the sun’s healch-bringing ulcraviolet rays. They are the crowning achievement in the realm of modern textiles. For samples, address Dept. 8: CELANESE CORPORATION OF AMERICA 15 East 26ch Screet, New York

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[CADILLAC] | \F \ 7 lic | WY [Or 0KS J America’s Greatest Moto ring b D | \ Presentin ie a New LL LAG i A New Luxury in -Motoring LK EVER has Cadillac or any other N company even approximated the perfection of performance and the breath-taking beauty which will be apparent at a single glance and revealed in a single ride by this new Cadillac. New it is, not only as that newness relates to previous Cadillacs, but new in attain- ing a measure of aristocratic distinction no fine car has achieved before, in this ; More than 50 exclusive custom bt cod Gift to the or any other country, and establishing a mode neither American nor European, but fixing a new criterion of elegance for both. The matchless V-type engine is carried far beyond its previous uttermost —the car throughout keeping step in power, responsiveness, luxurious, riding ease, and security, with the increasingly progressive demands of America’s most conservative and_ substantial clientele. by Fisher and Fisher-Fleetwood World Tae Seed.

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for OCTOBER 1927 161 [ f Ly F ¥ h angnne neeneemaes ES a 4 oi aka aise a oe OS EEE, SF , BS ein Sheer Feminine Loveliness as reflected in ; ; ; = ‘Paulette Chiffon » Crepe ‘Ripleene » Crepe Fiametta The new vogue requires the Mellow Finish that distinguishes Haas | 4 ‘Brothers’ chiffons . . . In a fascinating variety of French colorings, ranging from the warm, pulsing tones, to the delicate pastels. ‘Produced by pipelines Se H aas B rot h Cro Ne Gown by Kurzman FABRICS COR PO RATION ieee

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Blankets Bed Jackets Bed Spreads Travelling Sets Nursery Coverings Cushions Comforters Couch Throws Blanket Protectors Chaise Longue Covers “Distinction and (omfort —at Home or En ‘Route T is always a pleasure to choose beautiful things for one’s bed or boudoir. It is even more delightful to make these selections amid surroundings of distinction in a shop devoted exclusively to these comforts of the Home. ITHER in New York or Chicago a per- sonal visit to the shop of Carlin Comforts will prove interesting and worth while. You will find a delightful profusion of artistic cover- ings and other Boudoir accessories of quality and charm. ND we rather think you will find many ap- propriate gift suggestions —from a dainty birthday remembrance to a complete assortment for your Christmas list. TTRACTIVE display of boudoir coverings for the trousseau and travelling accessories. CATALOG ON REQUEST | Carlin Gmforts ine CHICAGO NEW YORK 662 No. Michigan Avenue 528 Madison Avenue at Erie Street at 54th Street HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page 123) observed her tactics in such situations. Let the other side explain, keep them on the defensive. “I’m sure the lectur:s will be a great success, Charlie. Do let me see you when you come back.” But she really ought to have invited him out to the country, she thought. He was her guest. Therefore, feeling derelict in her duty, she put her most hospitable note in the per- functory remark. “Thanks very, very much,” said Charlie, glancing at his watch, “‘but I can’t promise. My future plans are frightfully unsettled. By the way, I’m leaving some of my heavy luggage here. Will that be quite all right?” “Of course,”’ said my aunt, with her kindest smile, and, shaking hands, they said good-by with mutual good-will and complete misunderstanding. CHARLIE'S plans for the Christmas holidays included a house-party for winter sports at Lake Placid with Mrs. Heming. He told me that Mrs. Heming had improved enormously since his last visit. Perhaps her last marriage did it. What happened to make that plan seem less attractive to Charlie, I do not know, but, at the last moment—to be exact, on December twenty-third—while on the train returning from the West, he telegraphed my aunt these glad tidings of great joy: “I find I can give you Christmas.’’ Perhaps he felt that he had really neglected the old lady too much. She deserved this Christmas present. “That’s awfully thoughtful of him,” she said when she showed me the wire. ‘*He finds he can give me Christmas.” But she was not amused. She looked provoked, even worried. Christmas was still a great event in our old-fashioned family, and we always celebrated it in the country. ‘“‘We don’t want an outsider with us at Christmas time.” The children had arrived home for the holi- days. Carol had brought four of her school friends on a visit. “The young people won’t want Charlie around,”’ said my aunt. “‘T’m not so sure of that,” I put in. Neither was she. ‘‘ Well, in any event, I don’t want him around.” And I per- ceived that she was more concerned than she was willing to admit. ‘I don’t know quite what to do.” Perhaps she had a premonition of some sort of danger. ““Why, it’s perfectly simple,” I told her. ‘When he arrives in town to-morrow he will be met with a message from you. Tell him that it won’t be convenient. That’s what an English hostess would do.” “But I’m not an English hostess! I can’t say such things, Dave.” “You can say you're out of town. That’s the truth. You will be. He'll take the hint.” So, the next afternoon, when Charlie came to the place where he always stayed when in town, he found a note on his desk from my aunt, explaining with deep regret that, although she had been in New York most of the time since the first of December, she was now spending the Christmas holidays out in the country with the children. She hoped sincerely, she added, that he would understand. He telephoned out at once, assuring my aunt’s butler, who took the message, that it was quite all right, he understood perfectly, and he did not mind coming out to the country for Christmas at all. He much preferred it. It was the way they always did at home. “Tell Mrs. Clifton I’m on the way. And Simpson, if there’s a spare car about the place, you might send it down to meet me at the 5:08 train. I dislike taxicabs.” HE annual Christmas party went by rotation from year to year to the various homes of the more wealthy repre- sentatives of our great and glorious family. But wherever held, these family gatherings were all alike in one respect. They were a great bore. It was one of our sacred cus- toms to be dull when we foregathered. So most of the clan postponed the ordeal until the last moment. But I was obliged to go out to Aunt Caroline’s on some business matters the day before Christmas, and therefore was present when Charlie’s message was delivered, So were the young people. Perhaps the latter fact was why Aunt Caroline made no comment whatever except to say thank you to Simpson. : Her thirteen-year-old grandson, Greg. ory, however, was not so self-contained, He looked at his grandmother accusingly, “T didn’t know that fellow was coming out here. We don’t want any darn snooty Englishman butting in. They make me sick.”” He was still young enough to enjoy family parties and Christmas meant a great deal in his life. Even Carol, who had not seen Charlie since he became Lord Chawborough, was not very enthusiastic about the prospect. Perhaps she vaguely dreaded having a distinguished visitor there to witness ou common suffering. Being seventeen and at boarding-school, the process of emancipation from inherited traditions had begun. At any rate, she felt that his presence might spoil some of her plans for fun with her contemporaries, the girls from school and the boys within motoring distance, also home for the holidays, Even at the early age of seventeen she was taking on the responsibilities of assistant hostess, and although as a child she had liked Charlie, she did not fancy having him on her hands as a grown girl, home for a good time. “I’m sorry,” she said to her grand- mother and included me in her glance, “but you'll have to take care of him. I didn’t know he was coming and the girls and I are all dated up. Come on,” she said to her friends, ‘‘we’ll be late.”” And she led her guests away to keep one of those important dates at one of the neighboring places. I gathered that Carol’s four devoted friends would not have been loath toremain, for when I passed through the hall a few minutes later, as they were coming down- stairs in their winter wraps, I heard Carol say in an explanatory tone, ‘‘Oh, a man I used to know when I was young.”’ ““But what do you call him?” one of these pretty youngsters asked. Hostesses are always dragging guests away from interesting people. “You call him Charlie,”’ said Carol. They were to meet him at dinner. I could see that they considered it thrilling. All four of them were very young, very slender, very smooth and very much alike, although three of them were dark, and one of them was a blonde. As it happened, my aunt was going to have, among others, the able assistance of Uncle John and Aunt Sophia in receiving Charlie, for they came over at tea-time, bearing gifts to be distributed on the morrow to the various members of our large family. There was also present a considerable number of the youngest members of our illustrious tribe, with or without their parents. FIRST, however, I must say something on the subject of ‘Lord Chaw- borough—the Third Phase.” Up to the time Charlie became a public speaker, he had kept his head pretty well for so young a man, despite the adulation of the ladies. He had accepted their attentions as he had those of all the Americans, including my own and Miss Judson’s, with a polite and gracious reserve which covered a quietly cynical amusement. Or, as he put it at the first of the semi-public dinners given him while out on the road, “I take this very kind reception not as a tribute to me personally but as another evidence of the good-will toward the other great branch of the English-speaking family I so unworthily represent.”” England did not know that he was representing her, but America thought he was a nice modest earl and 4 regular fellow. ; But it is even more difficult to main- tain one’s poise. under the strain of public popularity than under the stress of merely holding down an earl’s job. In the House of Lords in England, Charlie was 4 nonentity, a member of the chorus. His only lines were, “Hear, hear,” pro nounced “H’yah, h’yah.” But as 4 lecturer on art in America he was the stat and held the center of the stage. Indeed, (Continued on page 164)

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PLUMMER 6 Gad IMPORTERS OF Modern and Antique China and Glass 7 East 35th Street, New York HARTFORD, CONN. 36 Pratr STREET NEW HAVEN, CONN. 954 Cuare. STREET = Co y \/ = ROYAL — = CAULDON Y WORCESTER, ‘= —_—_— HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page 162) he was the whole show. Lecturing, like acting and preaching, is performed with the visible, physical personality, and when it wins success the reaction upon the performer is delightfully intoxicating, especially for those whose heads are not accustomed to such strong wine. I really think Charlie had shared my doubts of his being a success. His voice was high and not very strong, and Ray- mond told him during rehearsals that he would never be heard in the last rows. But it did not matter about his not being heard. He could be seen, at any rate, and that is why most of the audience came. Art may not be a popular subject, but an English lord is a popular object, especially out in the provinces. Noble- men are not so common in those parts of the country. Nor was all his popularity due to vulgar curiosity. Can it be that the West, which is always deriding the snobbishness of the effete East, takes titles and all that sort of thing more seriously than our despised New Yorkers? That isa horrible thought. Let us hope that Charlie’s good business was due, in large part, to the able efforts of his tirelessand highly imaginative press- agent, aided by Lord Chawborough’s own democratic cooperation. He no longer scorned publicity. He sought it. If the reporters were not down at the train to meet him on his arrival at the various towns, he was disappointed. If they did not call subsequently to hear him declare in his broadest haw-haw that this was the finest city he had yet visited, he was quite indignant and chided his advance agent. LL of which helped to put him over, and the lecture bureau was now booking him for a second tour among the larger cities of our great democracy. He was already receiving twice as much per lecture as the distinguished critic who wrote it, and after the Christmas holiday lull he would be obtaining four times as much. To be sure, Raymond, an author- ity on the subject of art, was a more brilliant and experienced lecturer, but he was a mere American and his only titles were A.B., M.A., and Lit.D. And that also made Charlie feel his oats. He was supporting himself for the first time in his life, and while this amused him immensely, I think that, despite himself and his class traditions, it gave him the sort of self-respect which comes only from self-support. The first law of nature had been functioning for so many millions of years before we acquired, along about the day before yesterday, what we are pleased to call civilization, meaning the Institution of Property, that even being a belted earl cannot entirely spoil the gratification of self- preservation. At any rate, I don’t think he felt the slightest stigma of disgrace in earning his own keep instead of being kept by the labors of others. Once upon a time, of course, it would have been infra dig. But since the war made democracy safe for the European world, even some of the noblest no longer consider it ignoble to work for their own living, provided it be done with a high hand and an amused smile, to show others that you have seen better days and are not accustomed to such queer doings. Now all these experiences had their effect upon Charlie and should be con- sidered in extenuation of his conduct in this, the third phase of his development. Sudden success makes some men grave and serious and self-centered. It:made Charlie a humorist and we did not realize - 4 T WAS tea-time and we were seated around the cheerful fireplace, pretend- ing to be cheerful. That is, all of us grown-ups and all the young children who had been brought in to be exhibited to their fond uncles and aunts and cousins, including their bachelor cousins, who at least pretended to be fond of them. We were in the great hall, for even though it was a new American house instead of an old English one, there was a great hall all the same, because we are a great family. Already the premonitory symptoms of boredom were setting jn, Family news had been sought, found, and exhausted. Forced-draft animation wags dying. We had known it would die when we forced it, but we couldn’t help it. [t was one of the old family customs. What in the world could we talk about now? Tea afforded a _ diversion. Charlie provided a better one. Lord Chawborough was announced~— how my aunt’s English butler loved to roll out such names. We all looked up. Charlie strode into the room. Most Englishmen, you may have observed, take longer and straighter-legged strides than we do. Some of the flattering women had no doubt told him by this time that he had an impressive bearing. They told him so much about himself. So it was no wonder that, like them, he thought a good deal about Lord Chawborough these days. Without stopping to greet his hostess or any of the rest of us, he crossed to the sofa, threw himself down upon it at full length and, burying his face in the pillows, he moaned, “‘A-oh, a-oh, this American hospitality is killing me.’ Lecturers, like actors and orators, fall into the habit, I suppose, of calculating their physical and vocal effects. Theirs is such personal work. HERE was a momentary silence. Then it was broken by the sweet sound of innocent little children’s voices. They thought it was a game and enjoyed it very much. They laughed with delight and said, ‘Do it again.” I think my aunt must have thought it rather funny too, especially as she was supplying the American hospitality at present, and as he himself had requested the fatal dose. But we did not laugh. We felt rather sorry for him, and dropped our eyes as when a friend is making a failure in an after-dinner speech. I glanced at Aunt Caroline. She avoided the glance. Uncle John stared at the young man. This was the first intimation he had received of Charlie’s being included in the family party. Aunt Sophia put down her tea- cup and put up her eyebrows. She did not know what it was all about. None of them did, exactly. They were old- school unsophisticated folk and did not understand British humor. “Tf you are worn out, Charlie,” said my aunt, “perhaps you would like to be shown to your room?”’ Charlie sat up. The laughter of the children had disconcerted him. So did my aunt’s manner. I discovered later that this line about American hospitality, with the accompanying stage business, had already become one of his favorite parlor tricks in American country-houses. Hitherto it had made quite a hit. Charlie glanced about him. A perfectly good effect was lost upon a lot of stupid people who were either too old or too young to appreciate it. ‘Tf you don’t mind,” he said, “I think I'd like my tea sent up to my room. I’m tod and would like to rest.”’ O HE had his tea in his room and we did not see him again until eight o'clock, when dinner was announced. Charlie was never too fod to eat, and he knew he could count upon dining well at my aunt’s. None of the dry and dreary dinners he had frequently been obliged to endure while a guest out on the road. Besides, the younger children were all in bed by dinner-time. He detested Amen- can children and had encountered some of the worst specimens while on his lecture tour. All of the rest of us were dressed and down in the drawing-room when at last Carol made her appearance. And this entrance proved to be more dramatic than Charlie’s, although she had not intended it to be. It was the first time they had met ‘since he became an earl and she became a grown-up girl. Charlie, as we all saw, including Carol’s giggling guests, was quite bowled over and saw no reason why he should disguise his surprise and delight. Carol was superb. He not expected his hostess to have a grand- daughter like that. How did it happen? (Continued on page 166) =) tg ae 2 & @en time San:

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REMEMBER ME” THE NOBLE LORD HARPER’S BAZAR (Continued from page 164) Why hadn't they told him? He had not even realized that she was grown up. The rest of us, looking on and pretend- ing not to, also became busy with our thoughts. We saw trouble ahead. Meanwhile, Carol, aware of her be- coming new evening frock, advanced to shake hands with the guest, who was suddenly silent. We all were. “How do you do, Charlie,” she said in her quiet manner, with her deceptive gravity. ‘‘How’s business?” *‘How do you do,” said Charlie, and that was all he said, but we of the family watched him looking at her and pretended not to. So did the smooth and slender schoolmates. “Much fun being in the peerage?” Charlie laughed. ‘Oh, I say now, not you too!” He glanced at me as if I had taught the child to rag him. By this time the rest of us were giving the illusion of that desultory, standing-up conversation which precedes dinner. ‘They tell me you are still hard up,” I overheard Carol say. It had always interested Carol that Charlie was poor “Stony,” said Charlie, looking at her, while we all shuddered inwardly. “Sorry,” said Carol, looking at him. “You were the first poor person I ever met. You made a profound impression upon me, Charlie, but of course 1 was quite young then.” I could tell from the way the older generation now tactfully tried to change the subject that they considered this questionable taste on Carol’s part. There were some things one should not joke about. Even the new generation might at least respect money by avoiding allusions to poverty. If you are not rich you are not a success, and it is not kind to remind people that they are failures. Fortunately, dinner was nounced. now an- Y AUNT placed Charlie on her right and put Carol next to him. Uncle John did not approve of this He be- longed to the old school and _ believed that the way to handle such a situation was to keep young people apart, put obstacles in their way. He also approved of disapproval as a deterrent in such matters. So he expressed disapproval by scowling occasionally and remained silent throughout the greater part of the meal, except for characteristic noises in his throat. Sut it was all lost on Charlie, who, well instructed by the best English social and literary authorities, attributed Uncle John’s scowling silence to the well- known preoccupation of American hustling big business men. It is always interesting when life comes true to litera- ture Thanks to the same literary authorities, it was perfectly clear to him now that the whole family was hoping and plotting to make a match of it. He 4 knew the signs so well. It was awfully sudden. But he decided at once to try his best to feel enough in love with this un- pretty but extremely young American heiress to make her a countess had become quite chatty since his first visit. He was a humorist now and he began at once to tell us about his extraordinary experiences with the natives out in the provinces, where he had let all kinds of queer people entertain him at their houses—the amusing anecdotes which so delighted London when he re- turned “The old hag was a frightful bore,” he was saying, “insisted upon showing me the portraits of her ancestors and wanted me all about her family history. Sut what enchanted me most was that the people she invited to meet me all took it seriously and seemed to « xpect me to do so too. They referred to the old girl as a Can you beat it? A dowager in doubtedly Charli America!”’ And then he laughed his high laugh and looked at Carol for applaus« “Why do you go to their houscs if you don’t like them?” she asked, her Jong lashes veiling her eyes “Oh, beggars can’t be choosers, and one does not like to disappoint them. It’s all good business, as you say over My press agent insists upon it—a terrible tyrant, my press-agent.” h’vah The thin little girls were much im- pressed and laughed nervously. But Uncle John, down at his end of the table, was having difficulty keeping the strange noises confined to his throat. And young Gregory began eating so fast that his grandmother had to shake her head at him. “T see,” said Carol without looking up. “Some of you English have such a quaint old custom of making fun of people who try to be nice to you. Great idea. Much less bother than writing a_ bread-and- butter letter, isn’t it? Going to make fun of us when you go home, Charlie?” The older members of the family were pretending not to listen, but they were thinking of Dr. Arnold. Yes, Carol would be true to the family tradition. We need not worry. **A-oh, but you know, I never think of you as Americans.”’ Charlie beamed and bowed even more complacently than on the previous occasion of this compliment, and I perceived that he had not yet learned his lesson. No wonder the sturdy English race muddle through disaster so magnificently. They never know when they are licked. Again | glanced at old Uncle John, and thought he would explode. But tuere were women and children present, so he suppressed his profanity. APPARENTLY the whole family was going to accept Charlie’s high praise in silence. They all resumed the business for which dinners are intended, except Carol. ‘I understand you’ve earned stacks and stacks of money since you came over here this time.” We thought she was trying to change the subject. She was already famous in the family for her tact But she really oughtn’t to mention money so often. The new generation was so flippant about sacred things. “Ah, yes,” said Charlie, still amused, “I’ve been working frightfully hard Quite a hustler. Actually earning my own living, you know.” “Really?” said Carol. She paused, then added, “Do you know, I’d_ never think that you were an Englishman $efore I could stop it, a laugh burst out of me. But I suppressed it at once. ‘The rest of the family were silent, but they inwardly rejoiced. Evidently Carol could take care of herself. “Oh, I say,” said Charlie, ‘that’s good, you know. Very good.” He laughed too, looking at me rather vaguely. “But just what do you mean?” Carol said nothing. So I put in, That’s all right, Charlie. | “er She merely wanted to return the compliment.” The young earl still looked puzzled, but smiled amiably. “* Nothing of the sort,” burst out young Gregory. He did not care for subtleties, nor was he so well-trained in suppression as the rest of the family. But he was in ordinately fond of his sister, as we all knew from the way he tried to conceal it. “Carol means that if he thinks he's making a hit with her by knockin’ Amurr’cans, he’s got another coming.” guess ORD CHAWBOROUGH had, by *‘ this time, visited so many American homes that the impertinence of American children no longer surprised him; it rather amused him. ‘A-oh, I’m not criticizing your fellow countrymen, old man. The Americans have been most kind to me. I quite adore them. Only, I’m bound to say, you're all rather too sensitive over here.” : Gregory particularly loathed being called old man, especially by Charie. He had stopped eating fast. He had stopped eating entirely. “Then why 40 you say you don’t think of us as AmurT- cans?” ‘ Charlie shot a gallant smile at Carol and then beamed a blessing on all of us, 4° if he were merely a Lord Bishop, it stead of an earl. secause you are more like my own people.” There, that was cleat That ought to make it all right Gregory leaned forward and his eye flashed. His smooth young cheeks wert (Continued on page 168

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DLLNAN WAYS THLE MOM YVETTE OXFORD, BLUE, BLACK, OR BROWN SUEDE + BLENDING CALF TRIM - NEW FRENCH-CUBAN HEEL, $26 XCAWIVITY DELANY LEAT LY POC ADL Alt) LARC TO} HW AJOOH CATT Sieh POR All) EVERIKCS TOD All WAN) TADL br DELLAD Mathison Avenue > ae So& and 56 ck Sts _ a Now \/o call HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page 166) red. They would have been red, white, and blue if he could have managed it. “What, English? Us? Not on your life. We've never been English. We came over here in 1630 from Scotland, not England. We helped lick you twice and we'll do it again if you snooty Eng- lishmen come over here and work us for all we’re worth and then go home and call us Shylocks.” “Gregory!” from Carol, her cheeks burning. “Gregory,” from his grandmother in the low tones she reserved for reproach, “vou are forgetting yourself.” ‘“No, I’m not. I’m remembering. Do you want Carol to forget?”’ And such is the curious psychology of adolescence that a most humiliating thing now hap- pened. Tears came to his eyes and, to avoid disgrace and defeat in the presence of his hereditary enemy, Gregory abruptly arose and left the room without asking to be excused, a thing Miss Blake had impressed upon him could never be done. AROL resented her little brother’s rudeness to a guest even more than her guest’s rudeness to his former host- esses. The next morning she demanded that Gregory apologize. Gregory refused. Their grandmother, to whom the case was appealed, did not insist. Her verdict was that it was better to close the incident with silence. Lord Chawborough did not seem to attach any significance to the episode. He merely considered it amus- ing and rather liked the boy for his spunk, But this made Carol more kind and considerate to Charlie than she had planned to be. She told Gregory that their distinguished guest meant nothing unkind in his satire on her compatriots. Many of them were indeed queer. She had often seen Americans abroad who had made her blush for the country she loved. There were queer people in every country, and Charlie merely wanted to amuse the table. It was much better than sitting there glum and silent like Uncle John. So, throughout the rest of Charlie’s visit, she undertook to make amends for Gregory's dereliction by being kinder to Charlie than she had ever been to any guest before. And Charlie, having heard at home how all young American heiresses worshiped old [:nglish titles, and not unconscious of his personal charm for women, a possession he had never fully realized until he became a lecturer, now felt that things were going pretty well with him, and that all his dreams of the promised land would at last come true. Naturally, the whole family became nervous. That is, the older generations of it. “Did you see the way Charlie looked at Carol when they came in from the hunt together?”’ asked Uncle John’s wife “Well, what of it?’ Aunt Caroline replied. “She didn’t look at him that way.” ‘But she’s so young and impression- able.” “Entirely too young to have such thoughts.”” My contribution. But I, being an old bachelor, was not taken very seriously. “No girl is too young to have such thoughts,” said old \unt Sophia. **She can take care of herself,’ said her grandmother. ‘“‘There is no cause for alarm. Carol has suddenly grown up into a very attractive girl and we must expect young men to admire her. It would be a great disappointment to me if they didn’t.” Uncle John was amazed and misunder- stood her. ‘‘One would think you actu- ally wanted her to marry into the British nobility. Don’t you know only vulgar upstarts go in for that sort of thing? Look at ’em!” “Don’t exaggerate, John,” said my aunt broadmindedly, ‘‘we have all known of cases where the families were quite as good as our own. At least, it used to be so. That sort of thing is not done much of late. It is no longer considered the thing, I believe.” Sae smiled, but he refused to do so. “But we,” he declared, proud of the family’s clean record, ‘“‘we never went in for that.” “Certainly not,” said my aunt, “and we won't now.” ‘“‘T hope you'll tell him so.” “Don’t worry. I shall.” HE evening before Charlie left us, he dropped into my room for a night-cap. Let me say at once in Charlie’s behalf that he labored under a perfectly natura] misapprehension. He had been led to believe that every American family, wealthy enough to aspire so high, would naturally like to marry into the English nobility, because rich English com- moners struggle so hard to do so. He had read glowing accounts, as we all have, of international marriages and ambitious American mammas. He had never heard of those pert American misses who say, ‘‘No, thanks very much.” Such things are not published in the newspapers. My aunt had been mark- edly kind to him from the first, had turned her town-house over to him and, upon his leaving to lecture, had tried to extract a promise that he would come to the family party in the country. What did it mean? What else could it mean? Carol explained it all. He had seen such maneuvering before. He knew the game. When he came to my room I offered him a chair and told him to help him- self. “In the first place,” he began, “I'll take back all I ever said about American girls. They are the most charming creatures in the world.” He then in- timated in a rather nice way that my little cousin Carol, although extremely young, possessed all the qualities that he most admired ina woman. Moreover, with careful training, he believed that she would become a woman competent to cope with the difficulties of a high posi- tion requiring great tact and judgment. “It is not so easy as you over here seem to take for granted,” he said. ““American brides are awfully handi- capped, of course. Every one is critical at first. But young girls are so adapt- able. They can learn.” He confessed that he was a bit of an idealist in regard to women, and he had been afraid that he would have to sacrifice his ideals and marry merely for money. That, he implied, was why he had postponed the evil day so long. “‘T didn’t know that you were going to marry Carol,” I remarked. “Oh, neither do I, as yet. That’s why I’ve come to you first.” “Why don’t you speak to her grand- mother first?” “You’ve always been such a good friend of mine and you seem to be your aunt’s solicitor.” “‘Have you spoken to Carol about it?” “No, that’s the way you do over here, I know, but I’m not an American. think it’s only right to speak to the family first. That’s why I’m asking your advice.” “T suppose she likes you enough to marry you, Charlie.” “‘T can only hope so,”’ he said modestly. “Then why don’t you ask her?” “Tl cot.” “Why not?” “Until I know.” “Until you know whether the family approves?” “Until I know to what extent.” “To what extent?” “Oh, you know what I mean. We're both men of the world. Don’t make it so difficult for me. It’s a beastly thing to have to think about and it’s still more rotten to mention. But I can’t afford to marry unless—” he paused, but I wouldn’t help him. ‘Damn it all, Dave, this is rather awful, but I’ve got to go through with it.” “You mean you want to know how much money Carol has?’ “Good Lord, don’t you suppose I hate all this, but I can’t help it. I’m not free to do as I please in these matters.” “Well, she hasn’t a cent of her own, Charlie.” A pause. He sighed. (Continued on page 170) ee erring

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— PAVOTS JARCENT SILVER POPPIES C The fragrance of your sweetest dream syle Paris And Paris always acclaims a new Fragrance by Roger & Gallet as an artistic event. The many creations of this famous old house of parfumeurs have set the fashion in fragrance the world over for three generations. Never have they given a finer or more humanly appealing example of their art than in Silver Poppies “PAVOTS d’ARGENT”. Offered in all the most desirable toilet preparations by best stores everywhere. ROGER & CALLET PARIS ~NEW YORK CREATORS OF FLEURS d‘AMOUR ~ Le JADE AND MANY OTHER RARE PERFUMES HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page 168) * \-oh. any rate.” I made no reply. “But, Dave, you know how these things are done at home. Under the circumstances, your family would care to make a marriage settlement perhaps.” “Let me get this straight,” I said. “You mean that if the girl hadn’t any money and wasn’t going to have any, you would withdraw.” “Why, of course. One can’t support a countess on debts, you know. Do you really think that fair to her?” Then I decided that, since he would find it out anyway, I might as well tell him the truth, “Carol comes into eighteenth birthday Charlie.” “Oh, so that’s it. I suppose it will be a considerable amount.” “T suppose so.” But I did not help Thanks for telling me so, at her money on her next September, him. “As her family solicitor-—I mean lawyer—perhaps you wouldn’t mind telling me approximately—” ‘‘Not in the least, if I knew. But I don’t. I’m not their family lawyer and I did not draw up her grandfather’s will. Nobody knows except her grandmother and won't tell. I suppose she’s afraid of the child’s being married for her money.” “Your Aunt Caroline has been particu- larly kind to me. I confess I did not understand why at first. You see what I mean. I have reason to hope that she will approve of what I am suggesting.” she T WAS then that I discovered what had been going on in Charlie’s mind. He seemed almost apologetic for his stupidity in not getting the idea in the beginning. Eligible young men at home were frequently known to avoid visiting houses where there were marriageable young women, for fear of getting caught. So I felt that it was about time to break it to Charlie as gently as I could. “It does you great credit, Charlie,” I said, “‘to approach a member of the family first, even though it is a humble one like myself. We have all known foreign- ers who have wooed and won and run off with the girl first, and then told the family about it afterwards. And I want you to understand that we have no personal prejudice against you. You are all right and so are your people. Quite as decent as ours in your way, only, Charlie, your ways are different from ours, you know. Yours may be better, but ours are different, that’s all.” “How do you mean, different?” “Well, for example, we don’t hold it against you in the least—if you don’t mind my mentioning a bit of your own family history—that one of your female forebears in a previous century was—well, had a romance with a certain royal per- sonage. That isn’t your fault. What’s done is done.” He looked at me more in pity than in anger. “What woman wouldn’t—if she had the chance?” he said. Every one in England knew, and even an American ought to understand, that an irregularity with royalty, especially after it becomes hallowed by time, is not a social liability, but an asset, not a disgrace—a distinc- tion. The frail beauty becomes canonized socially. But he was too modest to boast even of that. So he only stared at me. ““We don’t look at these things in the same way,” I explained. “We are Presbyterians. It is merely one of the differences, you see.” He waived the point. “Do you wish me to understand that what I have ventured to propose would not be agree- able to your family?” “Well, call it a narrow-minded preju- dice if you like, Charlie, but I don’t believe the family would care much for that sort of thing. We are plain, simple folk and don’t go in for international marriages.” He continued to gaze at me. He did not seem to be offended, merely amused. “T don’t understand the Americans.”’ “*That’s the trouble. We don’t really understand one another. We merely think we do. And yet you ought to be able to understand this. Think, for example, how prejudiced many of your own fellow-countrymen are against the Americans—those who haven't lived down their prejudices like you.”’ “Oh, but that’s different.” “How is it different?” He dropped that point and took up another. ‘But how about Carol? | thought you Americans believed in letting your girls follow their own choice.” “T didn’t know that Carol had chosen you. Has she?” ““She knows nothing about it yet. But if she can stand me personally, I am rather inclined to believe that she might consider it what is called a rather good match.” “Undoubtedly,” I assured him, smil- ing, “from the worldly point of view. But you see we are not worldly. Carol has merely been kind to you because she is sorry for you, not because she is ambi- tious for herself. If we were that sort, we would put our money into the enter- prise of selfishly founding a great family, as you do in England, instead of estab- lishing a foundation for the benefit of the public. You see, we have no titles over here and so we have to use our excess capital in doing good. There is nothing else left for the poor rich Americans to do.” I admit that I was rather inconsider ate to take this tone, because he could not understand that I was both jokin; and telling the truth. Charlie alway: considered them two totally different things. We didn’t understand each other’s jokes. He still stared at me with the well-known English reserve. I went further. 1 took another drink and told him, with what must have seemed to him the complacent arrogance of a poor member of a rich family, that if we were going in for titles and that sort of thing, we would not stop at a mere earl. We would probably decide to buy a duke for our little dear. Other American families had done so. “Oh, really!” said Charlie, “I dare say your family thinks that it can buy anything it wants.”’ I had succeeded in irritating him at last—and I don’t blame him. But think how he had irritated me for months. I nodded. “Well, pretty nearly any- thing. But, as it happens, this is not what they want, old chap. You see what I mean, don’t you? I hope you don’t think we’re unappreciative. You simply barked up the wrong tree and that’s all there is to it. Let’s forget it. Have a drink.” ELL, I am bound to say that he took this unofiicial rejection of his advances very well. He accepted the drink and dropped the subject. Some Americans say that the English are good sportsmen only when they win. I don’t agree. Win or lose, many of them are just as generous and nice about it as any one else. To be sure, Dunraven was not. One of my cousins was on the regatta committee and still smiles con- temptuously when that subject comes up. But Lipton was always a good sport. Which proves that it is not a mere matter of class. I have known Americans to be poor sports too. Weall have. So it is not a matter of nationality at all—merely of individuality. When Charlie set forth on his second lecture tour, Carol, unknown to us, went down to the train to see him off. She strolled in upon us at tea-time, took her cup and stirred it. “By the way,” she said in her quiet, dainty way, ‘Charlie asked me to marry him this afternoon, and I’m going to do it.” “Carol! No!” “Of course Iam. You’ve always told me that there were other things than money and that’ it was beneath us to make a worldly match. Charlie’s as poor as a Presbyterian church-mouse. You all love the poor. Well, so do I. I love Charlie.” Great was the consternation in our proud and Presbyterian family when the news went forth, even unto the (Continued on page 172)

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CALJER COATS are a combination of a marvelous fabric 7 perfect tailoring: and fashion’ latest modes 7 7 7_4L your favori te store, ALCONE MILLS DESIGNERS & MAKERS San Francisco HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page 170) | Episcopalian branch and including un- important suburban and country con- nections, that our adorable Carol had promised to marry the Earl of Marrow. No one would believe it at first. Nothing of this sort had ever happened to us before. It was humiliating. (That is what we said, among ourselves and our intimate friends. Some of us were secretly delighted. Cousin Barbara, for example. She did not like Charlie, but she loved her daughters. Barbara’s brats would now be presented at court without the complicated maneuvering so often necessary for attaining that supreme happiness. . . . Nevertheless:) [IKE other American families, we had always stood out against international marriages—not merely because we were such a superior family but because we were sensible and saw how often such matches turned out disastrously. (As a matter of fact and statistics, not so often as the average hundred-per cent. American marriage!) At any rate, we did not like our money to go out of our country. We were patriots. We believed in international good-will and mutual helpfulness, but we did not feel called upon to rehabilitate England’s im- poverished nobility. After the first excitement had sub- sided, the consensus of sober opinion was expressed by Uncle John. “Oh, Carol’s still a mere child. Her silly little head has been filled with the nonsense she has read in novels about English country life. She takes the ceremonials of court and such flub- dubbery seriously. Because she’s so young.” Aunt Sophia nodded agreement with her husband’s view. “She'll get over this absurd idea if Caroline handles her skilfully. A schoolgirl’s imagination always weaves a web of glamour over titled foreigners.” And yet Carol did not seem to be the romantic type, and that would make it all the more difficult to handle her skil- fully. She had not yet come into her money, but she had already inherited a considerable fund of the we'l-known Clifton character. And from her grand- mother’s side she had come in for a modest competence of humor. “Oh, very well, say what you like about international marriages,’ she re- marked when called into the family conference and told the error of her way by Uncle John. “I’ve heard all that before. I thought so myself when I was young. But I’m going to marry him all the same. Why shouldn’t I?” “But he’s English, my dear,” said Uncle John, trying to be gentle and considerate. “Well, he can’t help that. In fact, he’s proud of it. Just as proud of it as we are of being Americans, strange as that may seem to you. I mustn’t let a little thing like that prejudice me, must I, Grandmamma?” “By all means not,” said my aunt, who, to Uncle John’s astonishment, seemed to be going over to the hereditary enemy. “Grandmamma herself has told me that many of them are all right. Charlie’s family is quite as good as ours and a great deal older and better known. Besides, who cares about family now- adays? It doesn’t mean anything.” E WERE all horrified. What were we coming to! A generation that does not take family seriously! Old Aunt Sophia lent a hand. “My dear child,” she said, ‘“‘you’re too young to marry.” “But Auntie dear, you married when you were sixteen. I suppose it runs in the family.” “That was different,” put in Uncle John modestly. “Your Aunt Sophia married a man who could support her in the manner to which she was ac- customed. Do you want to marry a man who can’t support you at all?” “But I don’t have to be supported.” “Do you want to support him?” “I'd love it. He supplies the title and I supply the money. What could be fairer than that?” Aunt Sophia said accusingly, “You are dazzled by his title. You are ambitious, You want to be a countess.” “Of course. I’m crazy about it, What girl wouldn’t be? But, Aunt Sophia, I won’t let it make the slightest difference when you come to visit us at the old homestead.” “Wait a minute,” said Uncle John. He paused impressively. ‘‘ You haven’t any money.” “He knows that. But I will have next September when I’m eighteen.” ** And he knows that, too?” “Of course he does. I told him all about it.” “That’s all he wants to marry you for.” “Thanks for the delicate compliment. You may think so if you wish.” The child had a far-away look in her smiling face. Throughout this informal family confer- ence my Aunt Caroline had maintained a statuesque calm—if one could be statu- esque with such a dumpy figure, such an amused but watchful twinkle in the wrinkled-up eyes. At any rate, she sat with an arm around her lovely young granddaughter and patted her hand. This was Carol’s first proposal and my aunt believed that the child was more in love with the idea than with Charlie. - HEN would you like to be married, my dear?” she asked after Uncle John and the others had left. “Well, we can’t very well have the wedding until Charlie finishes his lecture tour.” “Oh, really!” my aunt said with a glance at me. “Why not call the lectures off and be married at once?” Carol gasped. “Oh, but I don’t want to be married at once. Neither does Charlie.” “Why not?” “We both have a great many arrange- ments to make and, besides, the lecture bureau would hold him to his contract. He told me so.” “Well, I suppose you’re right. There is really no great hurry. It would be much better to wait until after you have come out next season.” “T don’t want to come out. It’s all silly nonsense. Lots of girls think so nowadays. Only their mothers make them do it.”’ “Tt would save me a great deal of trouble, I must admit. If I agreed to it, wouldn’t you like to be married in June?” “Oh, that’s so dear of you, Grand- mamma, but I really prefer to wait until I’m eighteen.” “Do you? Why?” “Charlie does too. He’s very nice about it. Says I’m too young. Wants us both to feel sure we’re making no mistake.” ‘Ah, indeed,” said my aunt, and again she caught my eye. “Yes, it’s a great mistake to rush blindly into marriage without thinking. Charlie is a thought- ful fellow.” “But Charlie says that the engage- ment should be announced at once.” “T think,” said my aunt, playing with Carol’s fingers, “‘that it would be better to wait, if you don’t mind, until after you’ve finished your school year, don’t you? It would be very upsetting to go back to school engaged, wouldn’t it?” “T don’t think Charlie will like that. He has to run back to England for a while as soon as he finishes his lectures, and he says it’s very important to have the engagement authorized by the family before he goes back.” “Why?” “He didn’t tell me. He just said it was very important.” “But if you’re not going to be married until you are eighteen, don’t you think it would be better to wait until you're eighteen before you actually promise to marry? I do. So does Cousin Dave. Let’s call it an understanding and tell no one about it. I much prefer it that way, my dear. We'll all agree to keep it a secret.” And she gained her point. Carol (Continued on page 174) ~ o” x

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Yardley, 8 New Bond Street, London; 15-19 Madison Square, N., New York; Toronto; Paris. “BOND STIRIEIET™ By YARIDLIE * Out of deference to our clientele we have refrained from using actual names THE NOBLE LORD HARPER’S BAZAR (Continued from page 172) responded to sympathy and kindness. Most people do. But, true to form, the Bourbon faction of the family, headed by Uncle John and Aunt Sophia, now pro- ceeded to do everything in their power to precipitate what they wished to prevent. That is the way families usually behave when they ‘‘oppose the match.” They were cold and _ dis- approving in their manner to Carol. They were critical and cutting in their attitude toward the man she wished to marry. And this, of course, only aroused her splendid loyalty and made her more determined than ever. They were per- secuting the man she loved. Or thought she loved. UNT CAROLINE forbade their criti- cizing Charlie in Carol’s presence, but the aunts and uncles and cousins, espe- cially the maiden aunts, would get their heads together over the teacups and have a fine time telling one another how much they disliked Charlie and what a terrible person the young man was. From being merely a mild and rather unimaginative sponge, he became in their willing minds an unscrupulous adventurer. Stories of Charlie’s cheek while out on the road were trickling back to town and you may be sure that our family made the most of them, like all true Christians. One day Gregory overheard some of the aunts gloating over a rumor that he had already engaged himself to marry that Mrs. Heming. The little brother lost no time in telling his sister all about it. “T don’t believe it,” said Carol, “‘and you ought to be ashamed of yourself for repeating vulgar gossip. There are always unkind stories about great men. Think of what they say about your Presidents.” The use of the word “your” made Gregory quiver. His indignation over the prospect of having an English lord for a brother-in-law had become impotent fury. He flushed with anger when Charlie’s name was mentioned. He used to mimic the earl’s accent and manner with grotesque exaggeration. It left his sister undisturbed. ‘You are jealous, Gregory, like the rest of the family. Secretly you wish that you could speak so beautifully.” “Huh!” said Gregory, sneering, “I'd rather be shot. He’s a show-off, that’s all he is.” “In your heart you admire his ease of manner. You envy his distinguished bearing. So does Cousin Dave. So do all of our stupid, old-fashioned, provincial] family.” Gregory’s voice was changing and it broke embarrassingly as he declared, “Well, anyway, we’re not tightwads.” And then he told her a story which, I regret to confess, he had overheard me relate to some of the older members of the family, of how Charlie had actually spent seventeen cents one day. ig WAS the day of the big football game. To be sure he had suggested my inviting him to go with me and my classmates, but it was quite all right for him to allow me to pay for the railway tickets, his lunch, his seat in the stadium, and the incidental taxicabs, because, after all, he was my invited guest. The point of my anecdote had been that I had committed a serious breach of American hospitality in not remembering that he, being an Englishman, naturally wanted his tea after the game, and I neglected to provide any. And so, as the four of us passed down the street of the college town on the way to the station, Charlie had stopped at what the Americans call a drug store, meaning, of course, a chemist’s. Saying, “Excuse me a moment,”’ he stepped in and treated himself to an expensive glass of soda- water while we waited for him outside. It was remiss of me. It cost him seven- teen cents. But I’m afraid I was malicious enough to say that it was the only money, so far as I could discover, that he had ever spent in America. Gregory loved it and exaggerated it to Carol. “T wouldn’t think any the worse of Charlie even if it were true,” she replied with the calm, superior smile so irritating to her younger brother. ‘The Americans are always making a vulgar scramble to pay for everything in sight. It’s such a parvenu trick, this egotistical eagerness to be a spender. Few of your American traits amuse Charlie more.” With all her loyalty and independence, one could see that she was hurt by our attitude toward Charlie, but not in the least shaken. The more we “opposed the match” the more convinced the child became that she was desperately in love with a fine fellow we were incapable of appreciating. Aunt Caroline had seen this before I did. She begged the family to desist. She told them that they were only de- feating their own desires. But families, especially powerful ones like ours, habitu- ated to having their own way, are always stupid about these things, and instead of gently leading Carol by the hand away from the abyss of an international mar riage, they were only shoving her toward it. ORD CHAWBOROUGH was re- turning from his triumphal tour in April. Uncle John said, “Now we'll have a show-down. We'll send _ this young man about his business.” “And that will drive Carol into his arms,” said Aunt Caroline. “Do you wish the child to run away and marry him secretly? Your attitude is making her romantic enough to do so.” “No danger,”’ said Uncle John. “He doesn’t want to marry her—only her money, and she’s not got it yet. Nothing romantic about him.” “But if they were to marry, it would be too late, and I couldn’t let them starve, you know. Carol knows that. So does Charlie. You don’t seem to realize, John, that Carol is a modern girl. We can’t force her out of marriage any more than we can force her into it.” ‘Well, what are you going to do?” ‘“That remains to be seen.” “Tell me frankly, Caroline, are you willing to have your granddaughter marry this Englishman?” My aunt smiled at him. “Well, some people say you are.” “T know that, and I'll have to let them keep on saying it for a while.” Carol and Charlie met only twice during the period covered by his second and even more successful lecture tour. She was at school and he was at work. Even for a noble lord, the rules of the school could not be suspended. My aunt had won her point and there was no public announcement made of this prospective alliance between two important houses. On one of his flying trips to town, between lectures, Charlie came to see me at his and my office. He did not crow over me. Indeed, he made no reference at all to my arrogant and misguided reception of his advances at Christmas time. It was to be as if it had never been. I had merely been mistaken. We all make mistakes. He was a _ good sportsman. Charlie invited me to lunch with him. I will swear to this. And he bought me a good one. Thus proving that he was not by nature a tightwad, merely by circumstances rather frugal. Now that his circumstances had improved, his generous nature found expression. For this was shortly after he had sold his Gainsborough for the price which made that work of art worthy of a first-page story in the American newspapers, as you may recall. He was feeling quite elated, and I don’t blame him. Together with what he had obtained for his other old masters, Charlie was now possessed of nearly half a million materialistic American dollars. So he was sailing back to dear old England as soon as he cleaned up in the lecture field. He explained that important business affairs required his presence at home. ““YVHEN will you be returning to America?” I asked. : “T really can’t say definitely, but I fear I'll be kept over there for several months. (Continued on page 178)

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eae ~ Ld a > a Oe, | Reproduction from a painting made on the estate of Vice President Charles G. Dawes, Evanston, Illinois, by Frank Swift Chase € Among prominent persons and institu- tions served by the Davey Tree Experts are the following: HERBERT L. SATTERLEE COLGATE UNIVERSITY MORRIS L. CLOTHIER OHIO BELL TELEPHONE COMPANY E. M. STATLER BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD COMPANY GLEN ECHO COUNTRY CLUB COL. ROBERT R. McCORMICK PURDUE UNIVERSITY HON. ANDREW W. MELLON EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY JOHN N. WILLYS

JOHN DAVEY 1846-1923 Father of Tree Surgery Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. i i ne ee ~ —. —— om . “ = ——E— — _ - ~ The D. T. E. Co., Inc. A $2,000,000.00 business in saving trees in 1926. Yet 70% of Davey clients paid less than $100 each Davey Tree Experts served nearly 15,000 clients in 1926, from Boston to Kansas City and from Canada to the Gulf. These clients included private home owners and country clubs; municipal, state and federal parks and institutions; schools and colleges; churches, cemeteries and philanthropic organiza- tions; corporations and other business concerns. Nearly 800 Davey Tree Experts are now serv- ing 25% more clients than last year. The pres- ent year’s business will amount to approximately $2,500,000.00. There were 250 men in the Davey Institute of Tree Surgery last winter receiving scientific training, all carefully selected—the only school of its kind in the world. Every Davey man is thoroughly trained in the Davey organization—no man is permitted to experiment on your priceless trees. 26 years ago John Davey was working alone in the practice of his new science prior to the publication of his first book, **The Tree Doctor.” Since then the business has grown steadily year by year in annual volume, number of trained employes, and the number of clients served. Not a man is retained in the Davey organiza- tion who is dishonest or lazy or careless. Irre- spective of theinvestment in him, ifa manisfound to be the wrong kind he is quickly eliminated. These Davey Tree Experts give you proven and reliable service at moderate cost—no car- fare is charged and you pay only for working time plus material and delivery costs. Write or wire nearest office for free inspection of your priceless trees. Davey Tree Experts live and work in your vicinity; they are quickly and easily available for large or small operations. y al , al _ Yr . ‘ ~ » bd Y ® THE DAVEY TREE EXPERT CO., Inc., 777 City Bank Bldg., Kent, Ohio Branch offices with telephones: New York, 501 Fifth Ave., Phone Murray Hill 1629; Albany, City Savings Bank Bldg.; Boston, 705 Statler Bldg.; Pittsfield, Mass., Stevenson Bidg.; Providence, R. 1., 36 Exchange Pl.; Philadelphia, Land Title Bldg.; Baltimore, American Bldg.; Washington, Investment Bldg.; Pittsburgh, 331 Fourth Ave.; Buffalo, 110 Franklin St.; Cleveland, Hippodrome Bldg.; Detroit, General Motors Bldg.; Cincinnati, Mercantile Library Bldg.; Louisville, Todd Bidg.; Indianapolis, Fletcher Savings & Trust Bldg.; Chicago, Westminster Bldg.; St. Louis, Arcade Bldg.; Kansas City, Scarritt Bldg.; Minneapolis, Andrus Bldg.; Montreal, Insurance Exchange Bldg.; Toronto,71 King St., West; Stamford, Conn., Gurley Bldg.; Hartford, Conn., 36 Pearl St.

. 1927

DAVEY TREE EXPERTS

Every real Davey Tree Expert is in the employ of The Darey Tree Expert Co., Inc., and the public is cautioned against those falsely representing themselves. An agreement made with the Davey Company and not with an individual is certain evidence of genuineness. Protect yourself from impostors. If anyone solicits the care of your trees who ts not directly in our employ and claims to be a Davey man, write headquarters for his record. Save yourself from loss and your trees from harm

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OCTOBER 1927 for Eve's Engagement Otarts A Flutter —— 8" VE BorRDEN had followed Vassar with a year in Europe. On her return to her South Shore home in Long Island, she gave a luncheon—and set all her friends a-flutter by announcing her engagement. The name of her fiancé came as a thrill. All who knew Eve and her vivacity and charm ex- pected her to make an enviable marriage. But none was prepared for a match so breath-taking as this. For an animated half-hour Eve’s romance was the sole topic of talk. Then came a lull. Betty Suydenham seized it to ask a question which had been in the minds of all from the moment each had greeted the hostess. “Eve, forgive my prying, but what ¢s that ravishing perfume you are wearing?” “Yes, Eve,” Anne Wakely sec- onded, “do tell us. We're just dying to know. It isn’t fair to keep such hypnotic come-hither all to yourself.” “No wonder,” Helen Waring contributed, ‘‘you are the first

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among us to capture a husband, Eve — with a perfume so utterly devastating as that.”

“You make-pelieve sirens aren’t the first ones to ask about it,”” Eve bantered. “In London, in Paris, at Biarritz, everywhere I went, this perfume seemed to weave a spell on all who came ” near me “Perhapsafterall,”’she laughed, “my aura of mystic fragrance was the magnet which brought David to my feet. Who knows? They say Cleopatra infatuated Marc Antony through the magic of her perfume, and that Josephine en- thralled Napoleon in the same way.” “But that isn’t telling us what it is,’” Betty Suydenham persisted.

“It is Raquel Orange Blossom Fragrancia,”” Eve answered. “A lovely English Countess I met on the Mauretania going over sim- ply set me wild about it. I was so completely heels-over-head with it that she gave me a bottle.” and their demands long took every drop that could be distilled. Now this coveted perfume is being supplied to stores. So also are the Raquel companion toilet- ries so alluring with its scent. For Different Moods — Heretofore Known Only to a Fashionable Few RANGE BLOSSOM FRAGRANCIA by Raquel is the true en- trancing breath of springtime Orange Blossoms in the fullness of their fascination as they flower on the trees—the witching scent cherished by patrician women down through all the ages. L’'Endeley Dashing, daring, adorable. A magnetic, mystifying odeur that stirs the imagina- tion and stays in memory. Olor de la Noche —or Fragrance of the Night A strangely striking perfume inspired by a strange wild flower which sends forth its hypnotic tropic scent only in the dark- ness—never in the day time. Each odeur also in companion toiletries. Until recently there was only one place in all the world where this prized perfume could be ob- tained. That was in the famous Room of Treasures at California’s palatial Mission Inn. In that room fashionable women from all the earth’s social centers be- came enamoured of its witchery; Now! A Vanity Book of De Luxe Leather—by Raquel. In Black Calf, or Red or Green Morocco, with Gold Embossing. So rich, so smart, so <alncly Convaniont. Holdsa generous supply of both Rouge and Pow- der Compact (in Re-fill form) with separ- ate puff for each. $2.50.

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Filmo, the per- MOU imera I lat takes movies of the ime quality as those own in best theatres MADE BY “THE MOVIE PEOPLE” The above scene_illus- trates the use of Bell & Howell Studio Standard and Eyemo cameras in making pro- fessional movies, shown in best theatres the world over er making betler movies of your Owl “Action! Camera!” On the leading movie lots of the world, Bell & Howell cameras have hummed into action, at this signal for over twenty years. Your favorite movie stars—all of them—have risen to ascendancy through the lenses of Bell & Howell cameras. That is why you can expect the very finest amateur results from Filmo, the movie camera designed by Bell & Howell expressly for you. Two ideals Twenty years of moving picture ex- perience is in the designing of Filmo camera, built to fulfill two ideals in amateur use. The first: personal movies of theatre quality. Second: ex- treme simplicity. Both ideals have been achieved. Thousands of Filmo users today so testify. No camera can be simpler to operate than Filmo. And no movies, even those made by professionals, can be better than the movies anyone can ‘ take with Filmo on the first try. How easy Taking Filmo movies is easier than taking snapshots. Just think - only two single operations. No focusing for distance, no setting for time, no complicated viewfinding, no turning films to next exposure. You simply look through the spy-glass viewfinder and press the _ button. “What you see, you get” in movies of theatre quality. Filmo does the rest. Nothing can be simpler. As you become more familiar with the possi- bilities of personal movie 4 ff “What you see, you get taking, your movies will become pro- gressively better, more varied and interesting, through using the extra, patented features Filmo provides. With Filmo you can vary the speed. Or take s-l.o-w movies. You can use any one of fourteen different lenses for taking pictures under all condi- tions of light, speed and distance. None of these patented features change Filmo simplicity. They do justify Filmo’s higher cost and result in better pictures. Who uses Filmo Hundreds of world-famous people are among the thousands who now take personal movies with Filmo. Prince of Wales, Duke of York, Lady Astor, J. P. Morgan, Jay Gould, J. M. Pack- ard, Galli-Curci, Zane Grey, Fannie Hurst, Al Jolson a few names chosen at random from the long list. If you would own the distinctive personal movie equipment, choose Filmo. Eastman Safety Film (16mm.), in the yellow box, used in Filmo camera, is obtained at practically all stores handling cameras and supplies. First cost covers developing and return postage to your door. Then settle back in your most com fortable chair at home and see your movies shown with Filmo Automatic Projector. The Projector so extraor dinarily simple, compact and precise that it is used industrially by many leading manufacturers, for showing their own sales or good will motion pictures. See your Filmo dealer for complete descriptions and demonstration. Write us for the new booklet “ Filmo — Home Movies of the Better Kind.” 7) » = _—————) BELL & HOWELL ‘ \_/ [mesistEentoy BELL & HOWELL CO., 1824 Larchmont Ave., Chicago, Ill. \ 4 ——_ New York, Hollywood. London [B & H Co., Ltd.) Established 1907 A FILMO : tutomatic ; Projector *. EYEMO Standard Hand Camera HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page 174) For one thing, I want to put the old homestead in top-hole condition for Carol,” he said, smiling. He liked her calling it the old homestead and had adopted the phrase for his own use. “T have my passage booked for the sixteenth,” he added, ‘but before I sail there is one more favor I am going to ask of you, Cousin Dave.” He had picked up that phrase from Carol, too, thinking that it would not only amuse but please me. ‘I want you to use your influence, like a good fellow, with Grandmamma Clifton to have our engagement an- nounced.” “Oh, the whole family knows akout it already,” I replied, ‘‘so what’s the use?” I found out later that it would be of the very greatest use indeed to Lord Chawborough in raising the money he needed for rehabilitating his entailed property, devastated by the war and by the American debt, but he did not like to put it that way to me. It sounded so sordid, I suppose. “Quite so,” he replied, “but there’s a good deal of gossip about it outside of the family, too.” “You mean your Mrs. Heming?” Charlie laughed. ‘“She’s not mine.” He paused. “But that’s not her fault. Yes, that’s another reason. I think it would be far better fcr all concerned to have a formal public announcement made. Don’t you?” “No, I don’t, since you ask my opinion. Carol is still a mere child. We feel that she doesn’t know her own mind, as you intimated to her ycurself. I agree with my aunt that it weuld be much wiser to wait until she celebrates her eighteenth birthday.” “Carol is much more mature than any of you are aware,” said Chawkorcugh. “Families never do realize that their daughters have grown up. Besides, think of my position in the matter. What am I to say when people ask me if there is anything in this talk?” “Have many asked you that?” Charlie paused and smiled uncomfort- ably. “Mrs. Heming has asked me that.” “Tell her that there isn’t anything in it. You’re not engaged. You merely want to be.” “That’s just the point. Mrs. Herring wants to be engaged too.” He laughed, but not offensively. ‘‘In point of fact, that lady has rather assured something of the sort—without sufficient encourage- ment on my part, I assure you, Dave.” I believed him. Mrs. Herring had improved of late years, but she always knew what she wanted and it was hard to stop her getting it. “Don’t you see what an undignified position this puts me in?” I did. Isawit. But I had to think of our family’s pesition in the matter. I said so. “Tt’s as if I were on trial, begging for something I can’t get. It puts me ina false light.” “Not at all, Charlie,” I said. ‘That is the true light. You are on trial and you’re now begging for a public announce- ment of the engagement and that, I’m sorry to say, is something you cannot get. If you want my frank opinion, Aunt Caroline has treated you more than fairly. You know that. She is kind and generous to you as she has always been.” Charlie smiled. “I appreciate all that, I assure you. Your aunt is a darling, but, after all, she can’t prevent our marrying, you know.” “She can until next September, my boy. Carol is still under the legal age. I think you had better play the game, Charlie. My aunt is a very powerful woman, you know. From the point of view of the long future, it would be better not to antagonize her. Think it over.” He thought it over. “Very well. I'll humor the old girl. Of course, I wrote to my people about it—in confidence. What’s fair for one family seems only fair for another.” That could not be denied, but we agreed that great care must be taken in such matters. He and I both knew that in England it had been premised that he had come out to the States to pick up an heiress. And matrimonial news which concerned the peerage was considered even more important in his country than in ours, though the head-lines would not be as large and vulgar. Now, I want to say that Charlie played a very careful game when he returned to his own beloved country. And the provocation must have been great, because, as I subsequently as- certained, when he attempted, on the grounds of his secret engagement to the daughter of one of our wealthiest Amer- ican families, to raise the large loan he so dearly desired, he utterly failed to do so, owing to the mere margin of difference between a formal and public arnounce- ment of a betrothal, authorized by our family, and an informal assurance based only upon Lord Chawborough’s say-so. The money-lenders had been stung in the past and they were shy. Do not misunderstand me. They did not doubt Charlie’s word or his good faith, but they were cynical and skeptical about the shrewd Yarkees. Other and more im- portant titles were coming into the market, and you never can tell what a Yankee will do, they said. Their ultimatum was that they would make the advance the moment the engagement was authorized, not a moment before. O CHARLIE could not accomplish all he had fondly hoped and planned fcr. But, at any rate, he paid cff some of his more pressing personal debts and he began the work of restoration on tke abbey. Charlie ordered a good job done on the old homestead. It included central heating and a score or more of American bathtubs for his American bride. For- merly there had been only one bathroom in the whcle outfit. As these and other pressing dutics, neglected for so many months while in America, required the earl’s personal presence in England, Charlie was not able to return to us until the end of the summer. I suppose that he had to spend a certain amount of time on his regular job as a Peer of the Realm. My American ignorance of the technique will explain, even if it may not excuse, my inaccuracies in certain of my earlier references. For, after all, that is precisely the point I undertook to elucidate—our mutual ignorance and consequent misunder- standing. Rut from what Charlie told me, I gathered that even he still had a gecd deal to learn about the finer shades of the ritual. Over in the States, it did not matter. He was an earl and that was enough. ‘That was not enough at home. In England he not only had to be an earl but to act the part. Well, he had plenty of friends able and willing to coach him, and I suppose the dukes made him fag for them, because he showed a marked improvement upon his return. His head had contracted almost to normal. Meanwhile, he had been politely but with increasing insistence, urging upon my aunt, by cable and by mail, the advisability of a speedy announcement ef the engagement. My aunt’s reply was always the same. “Wait until Carol’s birthday.” Meanwhile, too, quite as I had feared, gossip and rumors had spread to such an extent that certain periodicals, both in England and America, of the sort dedi- cated to social tittle-tattle, could no longer ignore talk of such vast impor- tance. ‘They could not publish the facts with authority, because they could neither obtain the facts nor the authority from either source in either country. But they could and did print paragraphs which allowed their readers to discover what was in the air. Mrs. Heming’s name was mentioned too. HE family was furious and my aurt cabled to Charlie. It was a long, expensive cable, but it was a kind one. She gave him the benefit of the doubt, (Continued on page 180)

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’ ABLE STORES

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IAN UNSPOKEN TRIBUTE te the Woman of tsertimination «ti€®3 the atelier fa) ROSE ROTH PROCURABLE AT THE SMARTEST -.SHOPS 550 SEVENTH AVE., N.Y. HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page 178) and he was truthfully able to say that he had done his part to prevent all such unfortunate contingencies. A photograph of Carol had _ been obtained, without our knowledge or consent, and this, along with one of the Earl of Marrow, was published both at home and abroad. The family was more furious. This was absolutely contrary to our long-established conservative policy. For seventeen years we had managed to keep Carol’s demure little face out of the rotogravure sections. And now here it was appearing all over the English-speaking world, quite as if she were the daughter of ordinary people, the kind called ‘‘society people.” It was terrible. And the worst of it was that Carol refused to be as shocked and indignant as a Clifton was supposed to be. She said she did not think it was a very good likeness, but seemed rather pleased at seeing it in print. ‘‘Dear me!” she said, “T had no idea I was so important. How do you like the one of Charlie?” I WAS not until September that the cable arrived announcing that Charlie was sailing back once more to the land of promise. Uncle John conceived a brilliant idea. Caroline, you haven’t taken the children out to the ranch this summer.” “No, Carol wanted to be on hand when Charlie arrived. She didn’t expect him to stay away so long.” “And you didn’t expect all this horrible publicity either. It will break out worse than ever when he lands. I'll tell you the thing to do. Take Carol out to the ranch now. Keep her there in hiding until this thing blows over!” “I’ve already arranged to do so,” said my imperturbable aunt. “Good. And there’s little danger of his following. Wyoming is too long a trip. He wouldn’t spend that much on railway fare.” “He won’t have to,” said my aunt; “he is to take the railway trip in your car, John.” “In my car? What nonsense! Do you think I’d lend it to that fellow?” ““No, but you’ve already loaned it to me. I have invited him to come with us, and he has accepted with pleasure. He has always wanted to see a Western ranch, he says.”’ “Look here,’ said Uncle John, “have you lost your head? Do you know what you are doing?” “T think so,” said my aunt. “Well, I don’t,” said Uncle John. ‘The only chance to save the child now is to keep her away from him. And here you propose to bring him out there and let them see all they want of each other all day long without interruption, in the most romantic surroundings imaginable!” “T know,” said my aunt. Uncle John gazed at her pityingly. **T suppose Carol wheedled you into this. You must be getting old, Caroline. She always manages to have her own way with you.” As a matter of fact, my aunt had made this proposal herself. But I did not learn why for a long time. “You feel that it is necessary to get them both well out of range of a possible newspaper bombardment?” I remarked inquiringly after Uncle John left. “Tt is necessary to remove them from the evil influence of your Uncle John,” was all that the shrewd old lady vouch- safed to me. The plan was to meet Charlie at the steamer, spend the night in town and then start for Wyoming before any one discovered Carol’s whereabouts or knew that Charlie had landed. But on the very morning of the day that Charlie’s steamer was due, there was a newspaper horribleness. We woke up to find huge head-lines and pictures of Carol and the earl on the first page, accompanied by a column of conjecture about the expected international alliance for which the Earl of Marrow was presumably hastening to the States. The newspapers referred, in their crass and cruel way, to Charlie’s having sold his collection, to his lectures on art, to his several and protracted visits at my aunt’s house. And they stated that Carol was one of the wealthiest and most charming young heiresses in the country, They did not dare say that it was an engagement because, when members of the family had been approached, they had all answered, “Nothing to say.” But the newspapers stated that it “was reported on good authority” and that “fone close to the family had said.”’ T WAS rather tough luck for a con- servative old family which had always taken as much pains to keep out of the papers as some families take to get into the news columns. And such publicity was particularly unwelcome to us because of our traditional antipathy to the British and our avowed scorn of inter- national marriages. Aunt Caroline knew how her enemies would smile at her now. They would think that she had been working hard to bring about the thing she wanted to prevent. “Well, well,” they would say, ‘‘she’s just as weak and human and snobbish as those she has always criticized.” I rushed up to the house before break- fast. She and the children had arrived in town the night before. Fortunately, the reporters had not yet discovered that fact. I told her not to let the news- papers worry her, and she said that she did not care in the least. It was beneath her to give a moment’s thought to what others thought of her. But of course she did care. All families care what the populace thinks of them. Consider how seriously royal families regard the opinions of their subjects. But I will say for Aunt Caroline that she never let thoughts of what was past hamper her plan of action for the future. She had already telegraphed for our “Public Relations”’ man, as we call our highly paid family press-agent. That great expert was away on his vacation. She had also instructed the caretakers to say that no one was at home to all strangers. And she had quashed Carol’s plan of going down to the pier to meet Charlie at the steamer. This honor was delegated to me. My aunt and the children were to remain in hiding at the house. Mrs. Heming was down there to meet Charlie, too. She told me that she knew how embarrassing the false reports must be to my family and how Charlie would resent all this publicity. So she had driven in to town to whisk him out to the country before the reporters could annoy him. The reporters did not know me, but they knew her. They joined us, apologiz- ing for the intrusion. I moved away. There was going to be more horribleness. Of that I felt certain. ON THIS, his third landing in our country, Charlie had an American experience which was new to him. A whole battalion of reporters boarded the steamer down the bay and besieged the Earl of Marrow in his stateroom. Charlie had not inspired the newspaper article, as my suspicious Uncle John had assumed when furiously telephoning, earlier in the day. He had not even seen it yet. But he knew how persistent American newspaper interviewers were. All prominent foreigners do. He had given his word to my aunt and he was still determined to play the game. But, again like other prominent foreigners, he had yet to take into account how clever our “‘press-men” are. His previous experience with them had been while out lecturing. Then he had been working them for what he wanted, but now they were working him for what they wanted. Naturally, he had to leave his state- room some time, if he expected to land at all, and so, when at last he innocently believed that’ the coast was clear, he made a dash for liberty, only to be captured and surrounded before he got through the customs. I had found out what was going on from the captain of the ship, who happened t¢ be a friend of mine. So I met Charlie before he reached the bottom of the gang- (Continued on page 182)

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con- vays the into icity ause the iter- new now, been hing ell,” and has eak- ived tely, that ews- she eath vhat - she the how the that past ture. our our Phat tion. rs to » all rol’s neet was the the neet new nust ould had » the inoy but riZ- Way. ness. our ‘ican the the aper had ing, even tent vere. had was ame. ners, how ious out king they ted. fate- id at ntly , he » be got rom d te arlie ang-

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J cry ily of France Corset, ie x ( a . aA i & oe ae Wi be 54... Duo-SETTE THE Srep-In ... THE EVENING So that you may wear the smart new décollet- ages superbly, Lily of France has created the Evening Duo-Sette—a supple sheath which gives to the figure firm youth, lovely natural shoul- ders, slim hips! Quality Stores will fit you! The Lily of France ts worn by beautiful women to make them more beautiful! Lity or France Corset Co., New York City HARPER’S BAZAR THE NOBLE LORD (Continued from page ISo) plank and gave him a hurried warning. ‘Give me the keys to your trunks,” I said. ‘I'll arrange for your declaration later. Jump into a taxi and drive like the devil up to the house. There are a million reporters lying in wait for you.” But I was wrong. They were no longer waiting. They pounced upon him. We might have been able to run the gauntlet without serious injury but at that moment Mrs. Heming joined us. I had thought that she had become dis- couraged and left. But I discovered later that it was difficult to discourage Mrs. Heming. Scarcely waiting to welcome him to the land of the free and the home of the brave, Mrs. Heming whispered, “‘Quick, Charlie, my car’s waiting for you. We'll soon give them the slip.” She invited me to come, too. EANWHILE, the young earl was being bombarded with embarrassing questions, to which he made no reply save in the form of his calm, well-poised smile of amusement, and a brief “ Nothing to say.” I, meanwhile, was wondering what to do about Mrs. Heming’s offer. I had come down to the pier in a taxicab because I own no car of my own, and the only one of my aunt’s in town had been requisitioned for jast-moment prepa- rations for to-morrow’s departure for the ranch. The fatal shot that bagged the noble prey was when one of the reporters asked, “Is it true that Miss Clifton’s family disapprove of you and have broken the engagement and that you are going to marry Mrs. Heming?”’ “No, it is not,” said Lord borough, losing his poise at last. “Which?” ‘‘Neither. Be good enough to let me alone. I have nothing to say, I tell you.” And with that we all three jumped into Mrs. Heming’s car and dashed off. But he had said it already. Enough to make a column story. “You poor boy!” Mrs. Heming ex- claimed, mixing admiration with her sympathy, and the car turned the corner at an illegal rate of speed. ‘The impudent beggars!”’ said Charlie. “Why can’t they leave one alone?” [I could not help wondering if he appreciated the humor of being driven by a woman who intended to marry him, to the home of another who had similar expectations. “Well, the impudent beggars seem to be following us,” I remarked, looking back. “We'll soon lose them when we reach the open country,” said Mrs. Heming. I could see that she was enjoying the romance and excitement of the flight, but she hid her excitement under a recently-acquired poise of manner, which Charlie, as she knew, liked better than her former strenuosity. She had, indeed, improved. “But, my dear Clara, I can’t go out to your place now, you know.” She did not know why. Charlie did not care to tell her. “I’m afraid it’s the only thing to do under the circumstances,” she replied. “Otherwise, the reporters will hound you to death.” “That’s just it. They would hound you to death. They saw you with me. I won’t subject you to any further indignity. I know these press-Johnnies. I had many experiences with them out on my lecture tour.” Mrs. Heming was insistent but Charlie was obdurate. And I was silent. Mean- while, we had turned into the Avenue and were speeding uptown as fast as the traffic laws allowed. Possibly a little faster, but we had not yet shaken off our pursuers. “Oh, very well,” said Clara, not in the least discouraged, “‘where shall I set you Chaw- down? Where are you stopping this time?” Charlie seemed to be watching his pursuers. “To what hotel did you order your heavy luggage sent?” He hadn't had a chance to order it sent at all. It was to go to Uncle John’s car at the Grand Central. It became my pleasant duty later in the day to return to the pier and effect the transfer for him, “T think,” said Charlie, glancing out of the rear window, ‘that if Dave doesn’t mind, I’ll let him take me to some club for the time being. They can get into hotels, but not into clubs, you know.” This was not only a diplomatic answer but was an excellent plan to prevent my aunt’s being annoyed. The newspapers had not, as yet, discovered that she was in town. Neither was Mrs. Heming aware of that fact, nor of the plans for the morrow. WHEN we drew up at the club, Clara said, “‘Unless I am mistaken, life will be too strenuous for you in town. If you take my advice, you will seek some quiet retreat in the country for a few days. Why not come out to my place this evening? I'll send a car in for you.” “You are too kind,” said Charlie, “but I couldn’t think of it. I’m starting for the West in the morning. Thank you so much for pulling me out of this hole.” “Oh, Pll always pull you out,” she rejoined quietly. ‘‘See you when you come back?” ‘“*Rather.” She looked at me and smiled, then turned to Charlie with gently mocking sentimentality, as she shook his hand, ‘“*Good-by, darling, I'll be waiting for you. “You are always so good,” said Charlie. ‘‘Here they come, Dave.” And we dashed through the sacred portals to sanctuary just in time. As I glanced back, I saw Mrs. Heming start off, alone but smiling. TELEPHONED a brief report to my aunt and explained why I thought it would be better for Charlie to remain in hiding at the club for a few hours. I then had a chance to rush down to my office and attend to a few of my own affairs, preparatory to a month’s absence. I had been invited by my aunt to spend my vacation on the ranch this year, and it was one of those invitations of hers which, though most graciously worded, I interpreted as a command. She inti- mated that I was needed in this crisis in the family affairs, though how I could not determine. So it was late in the day before I reached her house. By that time the afternoon papers were out and copies of all of them were on the library table. Uncle John was there and there was considerable excitement. Fortunately, his wife was still in the country. Even Aunt Caroline showed a glitter in her eyes, instead of her customary twinkle. But she had not lost her head. ‘But Grandmamma dear, ”’ little Carol was saying, ‘‘we’ve got to announce it now. The newspapers will find out that Charlie is going to the ranch with us— and at your invitation. It will look as if we were trying to take him away from that horrible Mrs. Heming. That isn't fair to you, it isn’t fair to him, it isn’t fair to me. It isn’t fair to any of us. If you don’t give out a statement announc- ing our engagement, I will. I may not be old enough to marry without your con- sent, but I have a perfect legal right to be engaged. Haven’t I, Cousin Dave? You’re a lawyer. You know.” “‘But, see here,”” began Uncle John. My aunt interrupted him. “Dave, dear, telephone Charlie to come up here, please.” In conveying this command to m) Lord Chawborough, I took the precau- tion to warn him that it was more than likely that some of the newspapers were scouting in the neighborhood of the club, and suggested that, if he did not mind the indignity, he would better make his exit by way of the servants’ entrance, which was a block above the main en- trance. ‘‘ Look upon it as a lark or a rag, I said, “and that will make it all right.” I don’t know whether Charlie followed these directions or not, but soon after his arrival my aunt’s house was in a state of siege. However, that did not matter. (Continued on page 184)

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The DUO-SETTE—a. supporting under- garment that persuades the body into lines of beauty —that transforms body defects into body loveliness! Your favorite store will fit you to this exquisite Mme. Irene Duo-Sette, Or to a Ceinture, or a Step-in, as you prefer. MME. IRENE Corset Co., New York Clty. ed THE NOBLE LORD HARPER’S BAZAR (Continued from page 182) de }> In fact, we found it quite convenient, as it turned out. Charlie had seen the afternoon papers and, although not so much excited as Uncle John, he became as determined as little Carol. ‘Really, you know, if you don’t mind my saying so, this thing has gone far enough.” “T agree with you,” put in Carol. “In point of fact,” said Charlie, “‘if you won’t misunderstand me, I can’t see my way clear to accepting your awfully nice invitation to go out to Wyoming in such an anomalous capacity. I really don’t understand what harm could come from announcing our engagement, and I can see a great many advantages from both points of view.” I respected him for standing on his dignity and Carol loved him for it. *« And if Charlie doesn’t go,”’ she added, ““T won’t go either.” ‘But all your friends are invited,” said Uncle John. ‘‘They are to meet you at the car to-morrow morning at the Grand Central.” “T know that. But they can have just as good a time without me. I’m going to pay that visit to Cousin Barbara. And she’ll be delighted to have Charlie there too. She told me so.” My aunt was not a Bourbon. She always knew when she was worsted in a skirmish. That may be why she won so many big battles. “Do you know,” she said to Uncle John, “‘I think these young people are quite right. Let’s announce the engage- ment at once.” “Caroline! You mustn’t do that—you can’t!” “T know, but Dave can word the statement for us. He’s had more ex- perience.” “Caroline, once you’ve taken that step—” “Tt will clear the air and put an end to all this offensive gossip. Come into my work-room, Dave.” Meanwhile, the doorbell had _ been ringing on an average of twice every fifteen minutes. I sent word to the news- paper men that a statement would be issued within an hour. My aunt and I then went into execu- tive session. For, while she could not write, she could read with the eye of an outsider and was a great aid to me in revising my first draft of the statement. While we were at work, Charlie came to the door and knocked. “Do come in,” said my aunt. ‘This must be submitted to you in any case, when we finish it.” “T hate to interrupt you, but I can’t find any other telephone on this floor. May I use this one? I want to send a cable. It’s frightfully important.” We could not help overhearing him shout his message to the cable office. It was a long one and, although in code, we guessed the purport of it. On the strength of the statement we were now busily composing, he could raise all the money he needed. Without looking up from my writing, “It was hardly necessary, Charlie, for you to go to that trouble and expense,” I said, though, to be sure, the expense of the cable would go on my aunt’s telephone bill. ‘“‘Your friends at home will read what I am writing within a few hours. It will be cabled over by the News Bureau.” “Quite so,” said Charlie. “I was merely cabling my agents to go ahead with some plans we outlined before I left.” He hadn’t the slightest shame or hesita- tion in his manner. Well, why should he have? He had been honorable and frank from the first. And he would be to the last, I was sure. He was no adventurer. He was a gentleman. Before Charlie left the room, my old aunt’s confident twinkle had come back. After he closed the door, she said, “I believe it’s going to be for the best, Dave, though of course I would have preferred not to announce the engage- ment at all.” “Why not?” I asked. ‘“‘You have already sanctioned it.” “Because, you see, when the engage- ment is broken, that will have to be published too, and such things are always so trying, especially for a young girl.” “Oh, it’s going to be broken, is it?” “‘T think so,” said Aunt Caroline. (To be concluded in the November issue) A SUMMARY OF THE MODE (Descriptions of drawings on pages 86 and 87) LEFT-HAND DIAL NOON: CHANTAL—Frock of dark flag-blue cheviot with little removable bolero of georgette. 1 P.M.: YTEB—Two-piece of natural colored kashatulla and wool jersey with small handkerchief of white crépe at neck. 2P.M.: WORTH—Dark green heavy satin suit trimmed with skunk. 3 P. M.: DRECOLL—Afternoon gown in biscuit-colored crépe, dull side with satiny undersurface, closing on long diagonal line edged with black caracul. 4 P. M.: REDFERN—Black satin afternoon gown, worked in pointed sec- tions on the dull and shiny sides. 5 P. M.: D@UILLET—Black velvet afternoon frock with three frills at one side and white touches. 6 P.M.: BERNARD—Afternoon coat of black velvet with new godet effect at side-front and sable trimmings. 7 A. M.: MARY NOWITZKY— Pajama with black velvet artist’s blouse and plaid taffeta trousers. 8 A. M. GOUPY—Sports two-piece of Meyer “‘pelleda,” beige in two tones, with that ‘shooting’ jacket look, half jacket, half blouse, that is new this season. 9 A. M.: JANE REGNY—The new long sweater, with skirt in three shades of green kashatulla of Rodier. 10 A.M.: MARTIAL et ARMAND— The revived long tunic, over finely plaited skirt in two tones of blue crepella. 11 A. M.: CHANEL—Suit in black velveteen lined with finely checked black and white velvet, coat knee length, some- what flared, new buttoning of five but- tons at the neck. Sometimes little turned down collar and sometimes scarf collar of the two velvets. RIGHT-HAND DIAL MIDNIGHT: BEER—Evening coat in dark green velvet with gray fox. 1 A. M.: PATOU—Gown in flowered taffeta with drape to one hip, uneven hem-line, and big bow. Slippers match. 2 A. M.: LOUISEBOULANGER— Heavy pink satin, bolero top, slender waist effect, skirt mounted in cartridge plaits, skirt cut into panels over short gold lamé skirt, the panels short in front and long in back. 3 A. M.: MOLYNEUX—Black chif- fon velvet draped frock, with removable little bolero studded with diamonds. 4 A. M.: VIONNET—Her new sil- houette, slim and slinky with loops of beads, but cut from georgette or silk voile absolutely circular, so the entire gown is on the bias. Velvet ribbon belt. 5 A. M.: CHERUIT—Typical gown of scarlet moire with pointed surplice décolleté and diamond buttons. 6 A. M.: POIRET—Coat of dark green velvet with embroidery imitating gray astrakhan combined with real gray astrakhan. 7 P. 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A Recent Achievement In Smart Jewelry Brilliantly jeweled straps Sy orteme date tetica emmccevettate new grace to the formal or informal costume.... and clasp the slipper or pump with welcome snugness where it is wont to sag or slip. HARPER’S (Continued from page 119) that she was the brightest “find” of the season. I saw a great deal of her during those turbulent days. For a time, the con- fusion of teas, dances, theater parties, suppers, play rehearsals, set her quite dizzy with pleasure. Then, partly no doubt because of sheer physical and nervous exhaustion, she grew suddenly tired of it, refused invitation after invita- tion, rejected her aunt’s proposal to go to Europe for a rest and, before the year was out, returned to her home in Mon- tana. She may still be there, for all I know—happily married, perhaps, to some merchant of the town. N SPITE of al! that can be said for this modern Cinderella, the average girl will probably think her very much of a fool for voluntarily renouncing the glory of a social triumph. Why not wait till the fatal clock in the ballroom strikes twelve before scurrying out into the night? That’s the sort of question most people would ask. In reply, I consider it my charitable duty to take the envious out- sider into my confidence and tell a few stark home-truths concerning débutantes. Stripped of all her fluffy accessories, just what is a débutante? Sometimes she is a gold-digger that would put a Follies girl to shame; more often she is that time-worn, age-old little bit of ivory, a pawn on a chess-board. So many of these pretty children are carefully maneuvered into the sight of eligible bachelors, with the single object of selling them to the highest bidder. The per- sonality of a future husband has nothing whatever to do with the case. How much money has he got? What is his social standing? These are the only pertinent questions. Is it any wonder that Alice McGovern was revolted by such cold- blooded manipulation? Illustrations are so numerous that it is hard to choose. One spectacular instance still lives in the stale gossip of New York’s inner circle. A débutante with a certain amount of charm, but of questionable social and financial backing, succeeded in marrying a prominent young Wall Street millionaire. On their return from a European honeymoon, they stopped, as it happened, at the same New York hotel where the girl’s coming-out party had been staged. Hardly had the process of unpacking been completed when the manager appeared with a bill for the party, and presented it apologetically to the husband! His disillusionment, it may be added, was not concealed any too gracefully. Chicago was the setting for a less spectacular but more typical picture of the débutante money-grabber. A North Shore family of sturdy ancestry but depleted fortune had one daughter, on whom they placed all their hopes of a new prosperity. Her first season passed with no acceptable proposals of marriage. Toward the end of her second season, all the young aristocrats of Chicago had fallen away; only a few army officers and rag-tag aimless idlers were left. It bade fair to be a depressing winter, when it was abruptly discovered that a certain humble major among the dwindling train had a private fortune amounting to several million dollars in Texas real estate. The resourceful débutante forgot her weariness, recovered her bloom and brought into play again all the technique that had begun to get a bit rusty from disuse. The modest young officer was overwhelmed at the mere thought that the son of a Texas rancher might have for his wife a Chicago débutante. And in the end every one was satisfied. The Texan got his débutante and her parents got money with which to pay their bills and restock their garage and stables. HE men involved in the game of débutantes are as ruthless and much more capricious than the women. The honorable office of these amateur gigolos is to dance with débutantes and marry them; but they seldom take their mission seriously. Their chief purpose in life seems to be to amuse themselves. They are more arrogant and fickle than any royal imbecile on an Oriental throne. And women must submit because ther are never enough eligible men. The memory of a certain whim of the dancing men still gives me moments of indignation. Some three years ago, th daughter of a celebrated actor was making a futile effort to gain recognition. He) qualifications were limited to a type of beauty now classified as ‘‘sex appeal, ”’ the fame of her father and his bank account. Society definitely would not have her. And then the dancing men discovered her! Everywhere that Monty went the men were sure to go. Her favorite resort was the grill of a hotel near Central Park The crowds that stormed the place each afternoon and fought for the opportunity of leading her out on the floor becamy almost a public scandal. Deb parties wer deserted. What could mothers do but submit? Without men the game could not go on. So Monty was invited and made an official début of her own. | know of nothing in recent social history more colossally humiliating to women all women, that is, but Monty herself. In Chicago during 1924 the mother of a débutante more charming than beautiful issued cards for an elaborate party at the Opera Club. Few of the men asked took the trouble either to accept or decline the invitations. When the guests finally assembled, there were four women to every man. It is not hard to explain the fiasco. The spoiled little boys had de- layed committing themselves, in the hope that some affair more amusing might be offered, and they had not been disappointed. This brutal choosing of the best offer is common practice in every city where the débutantes are many and the men are few. The position of the dancing men is greatly strengthened by the general con- viction that no débutante party can be a success without a long “‘stag line.”’ The theory seems to be that a débutante’s popularity is in grave danger unless she is kept dancing every minute. The stag line, of course, entails the “‘cut-in” system. A girl may start dancing at eleven with her escort, and be trotted dizzily on from one pair of arms to another for hours. The number of cut- ins is considered the surest gauge of a débutante’s popularity. Extra men are always more welcome than extra women. If some one who has been invited calls me to say that a friend from Yale will be in town on the night of a party, I welcome him to the fold. But if the out-of-town friend is a girl, I express regret that no more can possibly be included in the list of guests. T IS time to say a word concerning the functions of a social secretary in launching débutantes. My services are retained chiefly because of my thorough knowledge of the social register. It is my business to distinguish between those unquestionably ‘‘in,’’ those doubtfully “in,” and those definitely outside. ‘“There’s Mr. Jones,” says an anxious mother who has hired me to take the responsibility for the guests at her daughter’s party. “T don’t know whether he should be asked or not.” And I must be able to answer immediately either: “Yes, by all means Mr. Jones!” or: ““No, not Mr. Jones!” The door-list system is one of our most effective devices for keeping undesirables out of débutante parties. In the old days, five or six years ago, college under- graduates often relieved the tedium of winter evenings by putting on dress clothes and crashing merrily in upon a deb party. Now every guest must pre- sent an authentic invitation to an austere and well-informed doorman. Naturally embarrassing situations have arisen from this precautionary measure. The star example occurred in Washington when the son of a President discovered, upon approaching the doorman at a dance, that he had forgotten his invitation. He attempted to explain his plight. but the guardian of the gate would not be convinced. Had not the hostess inter- vened, diplomatic relations between her and the White House might have been severed! (Continued on page 188) BAZAR DEBTS AND DEBUTANTES

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PR es aN NEW BRUNSWICK ([ NEW JERSEY J } \ I 4 \ = mm Moai \ | \ —_ j | \ Sf P 1s of vital importance By JANE BRADFORD POTTER OMEN cannot overestimate the importance of comfort in sanitary conveniences because of its direct relation to quiet nerves. Nupak is the name of a sanitary pad that insures quiet nerves. Designed for com- fort and complete security, it affords a physical, and mental ease that medical authorities consider of inesti- mable value at such times. Nupak is generous in size and correctly shaped to in- sure maximum comfort. It is fashioned of the softest and most absorbent materials—downy, super-soft absorbent cotton encased in snowy-white, surgical, absorbent gauze; and, at the back, a layer of the softest imaginable non-absorbent cotton affords complete protection at all times. Nupak lasts longer than ordinary pads because it is more absorbent. And because it is so very comfort- able, it may be worn longer without irritation. Get Nupak at your favorite drug store; or if you prefer, write to me and I shall gladly send you one full-size Nupak pad, in a plain wrapper. Nupak is easy to buy. The name is easy to say, easy to remember. Priced at sixty cents per box of one dozen. At your druggist. / woman’s \ personal accessory ~ la ) ubwyowe ohn yOVV UR DRUGGIST is more than a merchant DEBTS AND DEBUTANTES HARPER’ BAZAR (Continued from page 186) The social secretary is a most conveni- ent buffer between hostesses and un- desirable guests. Suppose some one who has been invited to a débutante party calls up the mother at the last minute and asks permission to bring a friend. Mrs. X. says she would be delighted, but states that Miss So-and-So, the social secretary, is arranging everything and suggests that the request be taken to her. If the person for whom the invitation is sought doesn’t “‘belong,” it is compara- tively easy for me to give a flat refusal. Thus Mrs. X. is spared the charge of inhospitality and is also saved the price of a supper. Not all of those who struggle to “‘ break in” are successfully repulsed. Oh, no! Take Maria Cortez, the daughter of a wealthy Central American plantation owner. Upon the death of her father she came to New York with millions and a determination to win a place on the very top of the social heap. She had brains as well as money, but not a single friend at court. Neither did she have adequate knowl- edge of the situation. This she obtained to an extent through patient study of the society columns in the newspapers; she also gave close attention to the prattle of her maid, whom she hired because of her experience in the most important house- holds of the city. Finally she decided on a daring coup. She had read that the dancing class of a certain Miss Gascon boasted the smartest list of débutantes of that year. Ona day set for a meeting of the class at the home of one of its star members, Maria marched boldly to the telephone, called one of the pupils—Marion Somebody—and fired the first shot of her campaign. Speaking with a perfect English ac- cent, Maria asked Marion if she would be good enough to pick her up in her car and take her along to the class. Miss Gascon, according to Maria, had suggested it. Yes, indeed, they were old friends, Miss Gascon and Maria. Marion, a gullible soul, accepted the glib lies with- out hesitation; it was enough for her that the reliable Miss Gascon had invited the stranger. Thus Maria arrived for the dancing lesson escorted by a bona-fide member of the class. And Miss Gascon, who had never even heard of the young interloper but supposed that she was Marion’s friend and therefore eligible for membership, was glad enough to enroll her and take her check. Naturally the unscrupulous trick was soon discovered; and Maria was promptly and unmerc ifully snubbed. The attitude of her fellow- pupils, however, had no apparent effect upon her. Week after week she attended the class, went through her steps and accepted her isolation with becoming dignity. AN EXHIBITION dance for charity was organized by theclassandc ontributions to cover the cost of costumes and decora- tions were solicited. This was the oppor- tunity for which Maria had been waiting. With all possible modesty, she handed the secretary a check both astonishing and gratifying. There was some debate about accepting; but in the end the check was cashed. Checks usually are, even in New York society! So Maria was allowed to appear in public among the little flock that fluttered about under Miss Gascon’s protection. It is strange how quickly you are accepted, once you have done something to prove your mettle. It wasn’t long before Maria was casually taken for granted as a girl who had always occupied her own snug position in the select world. Next season, when she made her début with my guidance, her success was a foregone conclusion. Clever Maria—I have a staunch admiration for her still. There aren’t many Marias. The typical girl of good family has slight chance to be original or daring. Before she emerges into the white glare of publicity as a débutante, she is aggressively, stupidly sheltered. While she is in boarding-school she may not speak to a man in public—nor in private without a chaperone; she may not have her name in the society columns without running the risk of expulsion. Almost every minute of her waking hours is spent under the bullying supervision of Authority. No wonder she considers herself un- fairly treated. She hears all about the unlicensed freedom of her older sisters, She grows restive; she longs to rebel against the drab monotony of her little. girl existence. And she determines, when she comes out, to come out with a rush. Melodrama, sometimes (alas!) real trage- dies result. But we'll pass over the tragedies; if a social secretary dwelt on them, she would be overstepping the mark of her frivolous duties! The so-called “sub-debs”’ (a horrible term, by the way!) have of late shown a tendency to take things into their own hands even before they’re out. The old order, with its drastic taboos, is crumbling. A friend of mine, who has since become tamely respectable, took to smoking black cigars and swearing virulently when she was seventeen. Another girl, still in boarding-school, rushed over to New Jersey one Saturday with a flashy young financier and married him. Her name, whatever its significance in New York, meant nothing to the Justice of the Peac e or his cribbage partner. The ceremony therefore remained a profound secret till after the bride’s début. Then a newspaper got hold of the story somehow and head- lined it. The couple fled to Europe the next day to escape the wrath of her parents and of all the young dancing men who had been led to believe that she was their lawful prey. NE of the most amusing exploits of a sub-deb in recent years took place at Cannes, the Mecca of Anglo-Saxon soc iety in France. The girl, Catherine, was at- tending a school pour les éléves étrangers. Many American sub-debs are given a yeat in these fashionable continental boarding- schools as final preparation for their débuts. Most girls look upon it as a sort of vacation. They do little daring things —short trips in the Mediterranean on the yachts of friends, occasional week-ends in Paris. French and Italian schools are inclined to be less strict than their Ameri- can counterparts. This is not because continental conventions are more lax, but because the traditional independence of American women passes there as an excuse for minor social irregularities. Catherine quickly discovered means of eluding the gentle vigilance of the school authorities. She made brief visits to Monte Carlo, where she became ac- quainted with a certain American college boy. He appeared well-dressed, polite, and was a Yale graduate. They gambled moderately at the Casino. One day, as they sat together at a roulette table, the young man began to win consistently. Soon he had developed an irresistible “hunch” that his lucky day had at last arrived. His stakes rose from five francs to ten, from ten to fifty, until he was gambling several thousand francs on each turn of the wheel. He left the Casino nearly fifty thousand francs winner. Both he and Catherine were vastly excited by the adventure and in a tower- ingly reckless mood. After a good many drinks at a café in Monte Carlo, they went to a garage, rented an automobile—and disappeared. When the alarm was raised several days later, the police of Italy, France, and Switzerland traced their flight to the Italian Riviera, to Milan and north to Geneva, where the renegades were found, married, happy and penniless. The young man, it turned out, was the son of a Nebraska farmer, and, since Catherine’s parents declined to add generosity to forgiveness, she was forced to go with him back to the cornfields of the Middle West. BE SIDES functioning as the débu- tante’s fairy ‘godmother and as the buffer between society and the climber, the social secretary is also important as @ publicity agent. There are, of course, conservative families who actually do not desire to see their names in the paper. Hundreds of others hotly deny any in- (Continued on page 190)

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jor OCTOBER from drawing aeailies 2»? made in 1922 Case #644B Constance M., brunette, motive type. Born, Chicago, 1896. Graduated high school with highest marks, June, 1912. Also voted class beauty. Special course in business college, 1912-1913. Few mild romances at college. September, 1914, secretary to president of Chicago real estate company. Left 1916 to become personnel manager for large manufacturing Jirm. Engaged to general manager, but they drifted apart and he married a St. Louis widow. Left position to take up war work. Became director of one hundred Liberty Loan workers. Several men paid her attentions of short duration. Something wrong. After Armistice took up former position with real estate company; staved three months only. Here Sollowed a period when she went from one good position to another, performing her work well, yet seeming not to please. Began toworry and had nervous breakdown. During 1925 in Red Wing, Minn. , doing work of ordinary typist( salary $18). Now (1927) married to Chicago realtor and active with him in the business of developing North Shore properties because... Nothing exceeds halitosis (unpleasant breath) as a social offense. Nothing equals Listerine as a remedy

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nn Sf > LI .....the laughing flow’rs In double pride were gay” —BURNS THERE are some things which, for senti- mental reasons, you value above all others ...a silver heirloom, a jeweled keepsake, a priceless piece of pottery. Worthy indeed to be counted among cherished possessions are the creations of the Roseville potteries. For more than a generation they have been the delight of those who love beautiful things. Bright, gay flowers in jars and bowls of graceful line and soft colors impart to any room an indescribably exquisite charm. Nothing can be more appropriate at any time than gifts of Roseville. See the fasci- nating new designs at your leading stores. Write for a copy of our handsome new booklet *Pottery.”” It's free for the asking THE ROSEVILLE POTTERY CO., Zanesville, Obio ROSEVILLE POTTERY HARPER’S BAZAR DEBTS AND DEBUTANTES (Continued from page 188) terest in publicity; but, if you take these at their solemn word, you will soon find that you have increased your list of bitter enemies. One young thing, noted for her aversion to notoriety, herself telephoned the society department of a New York news- paper and announced her engagement to a man from Florida. Her comment to friends, after the notice had appeared in print, was: “‘Yes, he’s a perfectly charming boy. But I can’t imagine how the newspapers got hold of it!” My acquaintance with newspaper editors is of particular value to débutantes whose position is none too stable. And my prices to this type of girl are high in proportion. I may mention, in this con- nection, that there are many wealthy persons who will exert their wits to the utmost to get something for nothing. This habit recently led me into a dis- tasteful experience. A débutante, daugh- ter of parents unknown socially, came to the office in my absence and asked my secretary if I would be willing to handle her campaign for recognition. The secretary, rather unwisely, gave her to understand that I would; whereupon she handed over some photogranhs of herself and announced casually that she’d like them sent to the papers as soon as possible. When I learned what had happened, I was undecided just how to act. The girl’s family was certainly of no impor- tance. My secretary, however, had practically promised my assistance; and then the fee was not to be ignored. Finally I wrote that I should be delighted to act for her but that I always required a retainer before proceeding with the work. In answer I received a letter from the girl’s father. He declared that he had never authorized his daughter to ask my help, and repudiated whatever agree- ment had been made. It would have been no news to me if he had added, “‘I hoped to do my repudiating after you had used your influence to get my daughter’s picture in the papers. You were pretty shrewd to ask for a deposit first, now weren’t you?” Many pastimes are carelessly spoken of as ‘‘the sport of kings,” but it is safe to say that none deserves the title more than the débutante game. A father with a mere billion to back his entry might much better marry her to a bank clerk and use his spare cash for evenings of penny-ante with his cronies. Unless the ordinary American girl has access to an extraordinary supply of money, she may immediately give up all hope of a smart début. AKE the clothes alone! There must be, first of all, twenty or more dresses, preferably of French creation. Some of these will cost hundreds of dollars each, and few will fall as low as fifty. The total wardrobe, including street and sports costumes, can’t be bought for less than $5,000. Many spend twice, three times, that amount. Hosiery constitutes a sensational item in the expense account. A débutante must wear stockings of the sheerest silk, made by the best French manufacturers. Otherwise, she will be definitely inviting criticism. Because of their extreme fragility, such stockings will last only one evening of dancing—and they must be paid for at the rate of five dollars a pair. (That’s a conservative estimate, too.) Fifty pairs will not take a débutante through a season. Slippers, fortunately, outlast stockings. One pair of evening pumps can be made to survive six whole nights; and those finished in gold and silver can be regilded at least once. Ten pairs are a modest number for any débutante. The average cost is about $12 a pair, and the total expense, therefore, around $120. This, by the way, does not include the money that must be spent for shoes for informal occasions. There is no reasonable limit that may be set upon evening wraps and fur coats. An estimate might be fixed at any point between one and ten thousand dollars. Modern débutantes practise one start- ling economy. Little or nothing is spent by them for lingerie. ‘‘They simply don’t wear anything,” is the complaint which I have heard from more than one distracted mother. The ballroom of the most popular hotel in New York must be engaged months before the date of the coming-out party. The rental charge is $500, a sum which is reasonable enough by comparison with the other items of expense for a débutante party. The cost of decorating the ballroom may run to ten times the hire of it. Débutante parties, as a matter of fact, provide fashionable florists and decora- tors with one of their most important sources of income. It is true that the decorations for a coming-out party must be conservative, but it is also true that, in this case, simplicity is synonymous with costliness. Débutante parties vary a great deal with respect to the lavishness with which they are staged. Frequently the cheapest and least pretentious are those given for the daughters of the wealthiest families. Consider, for instance, the modest sums expended on the descendants of a famous American whose fortune is based on oil! The less money a girl has, the more essen- tial that she be given a coming-out party that will impress everybody with her wealth. In some cases, decorations for one party are left in place for a similar func- tion on the following night. This repre- sents an important economy and con- venience. Since guest-lists frequently do not overlap, the shrewd device need not prove embarrassing to the second hostess. REMEMBER _ comparatively few attempts at bizarre effects in the settings for coming-out parties. In one instance a complete grand staircase was built at one end of the ballroom to heighten the splendor and dignity of the receiving line. On another occasion carpenters were called in to construct a ‘royal box”’ in which sat the more august of the chaperoning matrons. It has been said that a débutante party is only as good as the music. Society comes to be amused and, since dancing is the chief form of amusement, a superior jazz band is the best insurance against failure. The best New York orchestras are most immodest in their demands. Their working hours are from nine till two, and the fact that a coming-out party does not get under way before eleven o’clock means nothing to them; they must be paid for their time from nine o’clock. Knowing the conditions, musicians frequently do not report for duty until an hour or more after they have begun to draw pay. The price per jazz artist for the standard working period is $35. An orchestra for a débutante party seldom consists of less than thirty pieces, and the answer to the problem in multiplication is $1,050. UT this is only the first cost. The musicians have given their thirty-five dollars’ worth of service at precisely two o'clock, while the dancing must continue till four or five. So it becomes necessary to keep the orchestra on for two or three hours of overtime work at the rate of ten dollars an hour per man. Thus the total cost rises to sixteen or seventeen hundred dollars. If an added flourish in the way of enter- tainment is desired, some popular stage comedian or dancer may be induced to make a brief appearance. In the days when Gallagher and Shean were Broad- way favorites, an ambitious mother got them to sell her fifteen minutes of their time for fifteen hundred dollars. The guests at a débutante party must be fed. The hotel can furnish a present- able supper for three’dollars a plate. This sum seems small until it is multiplied by five hundred, the number of guests at many débuts. And $1,500 is not an insignificant sum even to those wealthy enough to support débutantes. Hotel managers have told me of an amusing stratagem sometimes used by (Concluded on page 194)

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for OCTOBER 1927 Smoking and Throat Protection As viewed by 9651* Doctors Ww" is the quality that so many of those whose voices are precious have found that makes LUCKY STRIKE ciga- rettes delightful and of no possible injury to those voices? For the answer, a number of physicians, many of them leading physicians, in various parts of the United States were recently asked these two questions: Q1—In your judgment is the heat treatment or toasting process applied to tobaccos pre- viously aged and cured, likely to free the cigarette from irritation to the throat? 9651 doctors answered this question “YES.” Q2—Do you think from your experience with LUCKY STRIKE ciga- rettes that they are less irritating to sensitive or tender throats than other cigarettes, what- ever the reason? 11,105 doctors answered this question“ YES.” Consider what these figures mean; consider that they represent the opinion and experi- ence of doctors, those whose business it is to know. ¥ amined signed cards answering Questions One and Two and that there are 9651 affirmative answers toQuestion One No Throat Irritation -No Cough. Joseph Caillaux, Noted French Orator, writes: “I have found your Lucky Strike Cigarettes very agree- able. They do not hurt my throat in the least and are very soothing to my voice.” es Caller we HEREBY CER- TIF Y that we have ex- and 11,105 affirmative an- swers to Question Two. LYBRAND, ROSS BROS. & MONTGOMERY Accountants and Auditors New York, July 22, 1927. 191

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OF LOVELY HAN wy > 3) g Z % > Each Dainty Fingertip is Crested with the Alluringly Exquisite Glazo Lustre. That’s the Vogue! No detail in the perfect toilette of the smart woman attention or admiration than beau- tiful, perfectly appointed hands. receives more So it is only natural that fashion should take Glazo as her own. For it makes nails glow with the fasci- nating brilliance of a tinted pearl. Just a touch of the brush to each nail, There’s no bufling to be done. and instantly !—nails that were dull gleam with the tint of pink perfec- tion, the shade that is the You too, will say “it is unequalled.” vogue. No vanishing beauty. Glazo lustre The Original Liquid Polish Complete With Remover... Nails polished with Glazo make hands more beautiful, , more fashionable. No buff- ing necessary. DS is put on to stay. For a week or more, its radiant beauty is un- dimmed by soap and water or work. It will not crack or peel. If you would have lovely, alluring | hands be sure that you get Glazo. For it has qualities not found even in the imported It is the original | most expensive liquid polishes. liquid manicure. And like the costly imported pol- ishes Glazo comes complete. In dainty twin bottles. mover. In one, the re- In the other, the precious polish that gives to nails jeweled brilliance now so smart. You can get Glazo at all the better shops and stores. Be sure to ask for it by name. The Glazo Company, 310 Blair Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio; 468 King Street, West, Canada. Toronto, ifty Cents A Beautiful Cuticle Line isa necessity to charming nails. Glazo Cuticle Massage Cream keeps cuticle clean and healthy. Try it. Glazo Company, 310 Blair Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio Here’s 10c (stamps or coin). the vogue. Name City Send me trial size of Glazo, the complete liquid manicure that is | Address State THE HARPER’S BAZAR MENDER OF BROKEN HEARTS (Continued from page 121) behind him but a few moments when a light step might have been heard amid the silence of the winding stair. It paused at the various landings, and came nearer and nearer till suddenly, out of the dark well, emerged the smart figure of a beautiful young woman illuminating the grim landing like a beatific vision. It was the same figure we have already seen stepping gaily along the rue St. Honoré, Fidelia Converse and no other. That fair student of the strange old blood- stained illuminated manuscript of Paris streets had gone on pursuing her way- ward researches till she had stumbled on this dark tower precisely as Hilary Dalkeith had done. And now she read the fantastic brass plate as he had just been doing, and to her its appeal was irresistible, too. Only being a gay spirit, she laughed softly to herself, having no broken-hearted flower-girl to think of. Dare she chance the whimsical adventure of raising that knocker? Though a brave and a laughing one, she was still a woman. The Mender of Broken Hearts! She gave a little sigh, and then lifted her pretty gloved hand toward the knocker—but as she did so, the door suddenly opened, and a white shock went through her as though she had seen an apparition. The tall figure in the doorway stood rigid too, and their eyes hung on each other with some- thing like fear in them for a full minute before their lips could frame a word. And then the words were their names, nothing more. ““Fidelia!” “Hilary!” The door closed, and they stood looking at each other as though in a trance. Then again: “Ts it you?” “Ts it you?” And once again: ‘“‘T thought you were “T thought you were .. . Then, at length, Fidelia’s gaiety came to the rescue. “T thought you were in Tibet.”’ But Hilary could only look at her. ‘*How strange! How strange to see you again!” ND so they continued to stand there, wonderingly looking at each other, like those still figures smitten by en- chantments in the old fairy-tale. Fidelia was the first to awaken. She stretched out her hands, and he took them between his own. “See, Hilary!” she said. ‘We have much to say to each other, but we cannot say it here. If you like, you shall take me out to dinner to-night and we can be as serious or as gay as we have to be but now, I want to finish my adventure of that little brass plate. It is only fair, isn’t it? You have had your turn. You shall wait for me here, while I consult the Oracle.” He smiled down on her a dreamy assent. The granite of his northern eyes had grown very soft, and they were no longer solonely. So Fidelia plied the little brass knocker and left him with a gay wafted kiss as the door opened and closed again. When it opened once more and let her out, she wore quite a serious, very gentle expression, such as one sees on the faces of pretty women leaving a church after confession. ‘““What a perfectly charming old man!” she explained. “And how beautiful and romantic he looked with all those old books around him—like an old alchemist in a picture. I can hardly believe him real. It seems as though he lived here three hundred years ago—and is still haunting his old rooms.” “He is certainly an extraordinary old character . . . some whimsical old scholar perhaps, who has put out this little brass plate just to amuse himself and to mystify his neighbors,” said Hilary. “But he is very wise,” said Fidelia gravely. “Do you mind telling me what he said to you?” **Not now. that is, I'll tell you over dinner— if vou will tell me what he said to you. Let us keep our seriousness till then.” “It sounds like a very serious dinner Fidelia,” said Hilary, smiling that peculiar smile of his Scotch raillery sh« so well remembered. “That will not prevent our laughing, will it? It never did, did it, Hilary?” “*Yes!” he answered, half as if speaking to himself. ‘‘It was the laughter that made those old dinners so serious.” “You've thought of them then all these years.” “Tl answer that, as you say, over dinner,” said Hilary, as he took her arm to guide her down the dark stairs. HEY dined together at a famous old restaurant overlooking the Seine which keeps alive the memory of an intrepid French navigator who adventured into the Polar Seas and never returned; a place of little intimate tables and hushed candle-light. Chronological observers might have said that they each looked ten years younger than in the morning, and, curiously enough, it was almost ten years to the day since they last dined together in New York—a dinner that closed a week of happy meetings, the only week they had known each other—their Laughing Week, they had called it When they had met, their first fateful evening, at a little studio dance given in her honor by a celebrated New York painter, Fidelia Converse had already achieved no little of that renown which was soon to make her one of the most widely loved of living comédienncs. When Hilary Dalkeith’s eyes first fell upon her in a group of dancers, he felt that he had never seen so lovely an embodiment of the spirit of joy. He had always been a great reader of Shake- speare, and the gaiety of Fidelia, as she danced there as a sprig dances in the morning sunshine, made him almost believe that Rosalind, or Beatrice, or Viola had sprung to life for him out of the creative pages he knew so well and they had but to meet for him to be sure of it! Were romance and wit and beauty and joy ever so combined in living woman? As he looked at her, he knew that “his good days were at an end”’ unless she could some day be his. But then there vas but a week, and she must go on endless tours through her great continent, and after that on across the Pacific to that other dreary continent at the Antipodes—Australia, too—it was like seeing her swallowed up in space. But they had had their Laughing Week, and then she had gone. That she loved him, too, her heart already knew, but some fear, she knew not what, had made her hesitate so soon to give it entirely into his keeping. “Wait till our next meeting,” she had said with laughter and tears at once in her eyes, ‘‘and I promise you it will be very serious.” And now this dinner at the old French navigator’s was their next meeting— ten years after that gay promise. Mean- while, lying news of her had come to him, those reports that pursue all women whose names are on the lips of Fame; and the kindest of them had been that of her marriage. When that news came to him, Hilary had cased his heart in the steel of his Scotch pride, and taken his rifle down to some South American republic where there was always fight ing afoot, and when that was over he had vanished into the Caucasus, later to be heard of in the Himalayas and other remote wildernesses of the world. “Tibet,” Fidelia had said, and it was a close guess. And now, for the last month, he had returned to civilization and Paris, a bronzed figure still, for all his wander ings and his pride, with that fristesse de l'amour written over it for wise old French eyes to see. HEN, after their encounter at the tower of the Mender of Broken Hearts, Hilary had set Fidelia down at (Concluded on page 194) Me Aad aii

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THE MENDER OF BROKEN HARPER’S BAZAR

HEARTS (Concluded from page 192) her hotel, he had hesitated a moment and, with feminine instinct, she had read his thought. “Yes,” she said, “‘when you call for me to-night, just ask for Fidelia Converse as you used to do. . .” and she gave a little quaint meaning nod and vanished. So there was one less explanation to make when they sat facing each other in the candle-light. But, indeed, as their eyes met in a deep understanding, and in a happiness, too, that passes all under- standing, they realized at once that there were not enough explanations necessary even to make conversation. It had been enough to meet on that old staircase to know all. As the soft- voiced, light-footed waiters ministered to them, they suddenly laughed together out of a long silence. Their lack of subjects for talk was becoming positively embarrassing. “And I thought we had so much to say to each other,” said Fidelia. “Haven't we?” “Oh, yes! You promised to tell me what the Mender of Broken Hearts said to you,” said Fidelia. “You promised to tell me,” said Hilary. “You first.” Hilary produced a pocket. “Toss you for it?” he said. “Sudden death.” “The hazard of the die is against me,” said Hilary; adding, “Well, shall I tell you what the old man said?” “T am waiting.” All the gravity came back into Hilary’s face as he answered. “He told me,” he said, “‘that the only way to mend my heart was to take it to her who broke it.” “And what are you going to do?” said Fidelia, with a quizzical smile. “Don’t be trivial, Fidelia,” franc from his Hilary answered almost sternly. “Do you mean to say that you don’t know who broke my heart?” “Oh, Hilary, Hilary, God knows I never meant to... .” For answer he placed his hand over hers on the table, reassuringly. ‘“*Now tell me,” he continued, “what the old man said to you.” “‘He said the very same thing: ‘Take your heart to the man who broke it, he said.” “And what are you going to do?” said Hilary, with gentle mimicry. “Oh, Hilary, I know you never meant to either. . <i “And now,” continued Hilary, with a mock magisterial manner, “there is one more question. When we last met—ten years ago to-night—you said, ‘Wait till our next meeting, and I promise you it will be very serious.’ What did you exactly mean by that?” **Darling!” cried Fidelia, very softly, placing her hand in turn upon his. “Ts that an answer?” he asked. “Don’t you think so?” “T should like it a little more explicit.” ‘Hilary, I meant this, meant it then as I mean it now: that I love you with my whole heart, and that I have loved you every minute since our last dinner . . .” her voice broke, and then she added: “Is that sufliciently explicit, my lord?” But the granite-blue eyes were soft as violets, and the bronzed lonely man of six foot three who spoke French with a Scotch accent found that he could not speak a word in any language. At last he found one word to say: “ Fidelia!” And she answered with another word as though it were a rhyme. ‘‘ Hilary!” And high up in his medieval tower the old Mender of Broken Hearts was think- ing of them both. DEBTS AND DEBUTANTES (Concluded from page 1go) hostesses not above economy. Toward four in the morning, when even the memory of supper has faded from the minds of the guests, it often happens that broad hints are thrown out in the hope of getting breakfast. These hints the hostess adroitly ignores, and the difficulty is disposed of by the hotel attendants, who have been instructed to tell querulous guests that the cooks have all left the hotel, and that it will therefore be im- possible to serve any food whatever at so early an hour. Besides food, an inexhaustible supply of cigarets must be furnished to the guests. Two or three thousand are generally required. The incidental destruction of hotel property by the guests at coming-out parties is another major item of expense. A thousand dollars would not repair the damage done at many débuts. Hotel managers are apt to be savage on this point. At luncheon a few days ago, a famous New York maitre d’hitel said to me: ‘‘ They throw their cigaret butts any- where—everywhere! Burn holes in the rugs! Burn holes in valuable tapestries! Scorch the arms of mahogany chairs! Ruin everything! Polite society? Bah! Pigs!” If money is required to launch the débutante, more money is required to keep her going. A parterre box at the opera (if it be obtainable at any price) is a desirable showcase for her. One night a week she should display herself in the Golden Horseshoe and do her best to impress favorably the hundreds of critical eyes which will inspect her be- tween the acts. Irom time immemorial, the height of a débutante’s social aspirations has been a formal presentation to the King and Queen of England. Somehow, though, it seems to me that this honor has begun to wear a trifle thin in recent seasons. The successful New York girl has non chalantly yielded her place in the line to her rich sisters from Emporia, Kansas, and Eau Claire, Wisconsin. Why do you suppose that has happened? Certainly the New York girls didn’t give way a single inch when the Prince of Wales visited us! During a royal reception a year or so ago, the American quota was waiting with others in an ante-room to be received. The Queen, passing by a half-open door, saw one of the Americans powdering her nose. Her Highness promptly sent a lackey to the young lady of the powder- puff. Said he: ‘“ Her Highness, the Queen, requests that you withdraw immediately. She wishes you to know that this is not a boudoir.” Newcomers approach the Court of St. James decorously, treading carefully the path of timeworn convention. The dé- butante approaches the Court of Ameri- can Society by trickier, more devious routes and with her check-book under her arm. But there ave certain inexorable rules, just the same, even in lax New York; and if she fails to observe them, her ex- pulsion will be as sudden and final as that of one who powders her nose in the presence of the Queen of England.

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196 Sous LE Gui Wade — bottled hered im france, Sous LE Gui Made - bottled - bexed im “france HARPER’S A NEW DIVERSION FOR SOCIETY By LILLIAN GAY rumor has it that James Gordon Bennett, challenged to ride his horse up the steps of the New- port Reading Room and into the Club, did so. This was forty-eight years ago. The result of that escapade (again I quote Dame Rumor) was a rebuke from certain of the Club officials, whose sense of humor seemed strangely lacking. Mr. Bennett was the sort to do things on a princely scale. He withdrew from the old Club and proceeded to build his own. The great stretch of property known as the Brooks gardens was bought up; Stanford White, Mr. Bennett’s particular friend, was subsidized, and in short order the gigantic pile of buildings known all over the world as the Newport Casino began to take shape. Any one, to-day, com- paring the Casino plant with that shabby corner building on Church Street, known as the “old Club,” will see that the triumph was definitely Mr. Bennett’s. Yet not entirely Mr. Bennett’s, for with- out the guiding hand of Stanford White, the place might not have endured as it has. The Casino Theater, reopened this summer after twenty years of disuse, speaks specifically for the grace and art of Mr. White. Mr. Livingston Platt who has had charge of the redecoration of the theater has taken care to lose none of the old Stanford White quality and beauty. The style of the theater is simplified Italian, done in the Victorian manner. The walls are all ivory basketwork flaked with gold leaf, as bright to-day as it was forty-eight years ago. The balcony, which forms a horseshoe of boxes, is a succession of arches that spring from the ground floor. Charming, lovely arches, that merge into the jade-green arcades in the rear where people may saunter and visit from box to box between the acts! The box list in this new venture, by the way (twenty boxes for six nights a week), is almost identical with the parterre list at the Metropolitan Opera House. HE Stanford White motifs are found everywhere. The famous medallions, from which the Stanford White picture frames, so precious in his lifetime, were molded, are scattered all over the walls. The center green mural on the back wall of the boxes was actually painted by Mr. White himself, up on a scaffold, all amuss with paint pots and dirty canvas. I like to think of Mr. Bennett as well, leaning up against the scaffold, helping on the good work with that vitality and dynamic force of his that dared so much. Mr. Platt has carried out the jade tones of the White murals in a gorgeous sweep of velvet curtain, in the seats of the auditorium, in the upholstering of the box chairs. Ivory and gold and jade everywhere lighted by an_ exquisite crystal chandelier in the center, by crystal drops in the boxes. This lovely little place, dug out after all these years, shows in its sparkling response to electricity that it was built for night gaiety and not day. Which is as it should be. Beauty and a lusty tang for adventure! Gold leaf and salt air! That’s what Newport has always stood for, and it’s a tremendous combination. From the very earliest days Newport championed the fine arts. The first theater in the United States of which there is any record was built on the stormy bluff at Easton’s Point. It collapsed at intervals, so we are told, and was finally blown clear out to sea in a gale; but though its life was short it established a tradition. The actors used to fly to Newport when cholera and yellow fever were raging in the cities. They found sanctuary also from the Puritan rabble that hounded them out of other God-fearing places. Newport was apparently never much worried by the fear of God. Tolerance was the key- note of the community; and so, cosmo- politan, liberal-minded, it could develop a culture and breadth of view impossible otherwise. Perhaps the salt tang of piracy in the records of the finest old Newport families was responsible for the courage with which they backed all their convictions. BARRETT To this peculiar bracing quality of Newport, the active intellects of all time have responded. Nearly every famous American of note has visited here, lived here, worked here, or died here. Booth Den—Edwin Booth’s house; Char- lotte Cushman’s house; Henry James’ house: the tourist can find them all. The sagging stones in the old cemeteries record brilliant lives and great achievements. The group of actors gathered together at the Casino this summer got the sort of stimulation and excitement from their audience that provoked them to their best efforts. “I love to act’”—these words uttered with the same quiet in- tensity that made the opening bill of “Hamlet (in modern dress)” such a triumphant absorbing occasion struck the keynote of the Casino players. Basil Sydney Joves to act; so does Mary Ellis; so do Henry Hull, Pauline Lord, Helen Ware and all the others. The ideal vaca- tion to them does not mean drifting across the Atlantic and back again with a few weeks at Deauville or on the Paris boulevards. No indeed, a summer of loafing in Europe puts their nerves on edge. Hard work in the good cause of Art, the inspiration of a half-dozen other fine actors, effort and achievement—that’s their idea of a real holiday. The plays in the repertoire of the Casino group speak for the amount of serious scheduled work that was put into the six weeks’ season. ‘‘Hamlet” (in modern dress); ‘‘Banco”’; “The Devil’s Dis- ciple”; “The Romantic Young Lady”; “The Guardsman’; and “Candida.” But grilling hours of work, the strain of playing one bill six nights a week and rehearsing the next bill during the day, were soon forgottenin the peculiar galvanic thrill, like an electric circuit, which comes from the alert and intelligent coéperation of actors and the right audience. Newport with its brilliant gathering of summer residents on the Cliffs and around the Ocean Drive, with its army and navy colony, with its handy ‘“all-the-year- round” families descended from the Hazards, the Perrys, the Coddingtons, the Eastons, is fitted by a sort of divine right to give this specialized kind of coéperation and support. Moreover, in playing in the old theater, there is the added inspiration of tradition, of memories that cling like cobwebs about those graceful arches, of echoes that haunt and disturb. In the days before each residence boasted its own ballroom, the Casino Theater served as a sort of community ballroom for the summer colony. Here dances were held twice a week; on dance nights all dinner parties ended up automatically in the gold and jade spaces of the Casino ballroom. Here all visitors of note were féted. Presi- dent Arthur, itinerant nobles, distin- guished diplomats, authors, actors, war heroes, have gathered here in their time, danced to the strumming of Mullally’s Orchestra, wandered on the vast double- tiered piazzas outside, caught the vista by moonlight of the old ivy-covered tower in the upper Court, of the great black trees against the Horseshoe Curve. T HAS been said that all the marriages of note in the United States have been “set” in the Casino ballroom. Here any one who cared to watch could have followed the courtship of John Jacob Astor and the lovely Ava Willing. It was here the Duke of Marlborough made plain his intentions to carry off the youth- ful Consuelo. The Duke of Roxburgh and May Goelet; Lord Curzon and Daisy Leiter; Prince Cantacuzene and Julia Dent Grant: all received congratulations under those same graceful gold arches. It was here Count Boni Castellane, with his pale yellow haiy parted down to the nape of his neck, cut such a wide swath thirty years ago. The Spanish Princess, Eulalie, in the spun-glass dress that was then the talk of the Chicago Exhibition, was a visitor here. Yachting week was the great week of the season. No matter how heavy the (Concluded on page 198) BAZAR os TT RCA Bol ba as ei «a

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They say the modern woman Is wearing fewerand fewerclothes.That may be true; but we notice that she is buying more and more Oshkosh Wardrobe Trunks to pack them in. An attractive descriptive booklet, “Your Home Away From Home,” will be sent you on request to 468 High Street, Oshkosh, Wisconsin. SHKOS TRUNK YY WS WS Y

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HARPER’S BAZAR A NEW DIVERSION FOR SOCIETY (Concluded from page 196) sea or heated the race, the yachtsmen reported for land duty at night, steering straight for the intimate warmth of the secluded little ballroom. At one time a few of the men—Bobby Hargoo, Nelson Howard, Dick Peters, so the report goes—attempted to bring back the old style of dress for cotillion nights. Black satin knee-breeches, lace jabots, white silk stockings, pumps with diamond buckles made a pic- turesque display for a night or two, then were forgotten. Here Mrs. William Astor ruled supreme, seated in a par- ticular gold chair in a particular corner of the salon until the day dawned when tiaras and diamond stomachers were held less reverently than they had been. Values were changing. ‘The social leader- ship passed into the hands of that most famous triumvirate—Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont, Mrs. Hermann Oelrichs, Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish. A gay lark they made of everything, with the daring ingenuity of Harry Lehr to set the tempo. Private theatricals rose to epidemic peak. The last organized theatrical event to take place there was the repertoire season of Eric Hope, Lord Yarmouth. This was over twenty-five years ago. Clara Bloodgood, May Robson, Nora Laimson, Donald MacClaren were in that con spicuous little group, to say nothing of Miss Bessie Hunter, now Mrs. Rogers Morgan. The repertoire consisted of charming dainty trifles like “‘The Rift within the Lute”; ‘Roseberry Shrub Sec.” etc.—plays forgotten although the players are not. Flower shows, dog shows, dancing- classes, ‘‘readings” by Sydney Wollett and George Riddle, all had their day. But most epoch-making of all was the visit of Oscar Wilde way back in the earliest “eighties. Excitement was rife, nerves all aflutter, and every sunflower in Newport ripened, perfected, and picked for the great occasion. The stage, the auditorium, the balconies were banked high with the yellow and black things and Wilde himself carried an especially exotic one in his hand. With his long dark squarely cut hair and his black velvet suit, with that peculiar tawny gleam in his eye, he seemed a human manifestation of the flower he had made so famous. He talked on “‘esthetics,” a new term in those days, and the crowded audience felt pleasantly disturbed as they followed the lightning turns of that very agile mind. But the radical of to-day is the reactionary of to-morrow. A Wilde play was under discussion for the present repertoire season, but—how Wilde would have writhed in agony had he heard the discussion!—his plays were all dismissed as hopeles:ly old-fashioned. However, it was the aim of the Casino Festivals to preserve a little of that old- fashioned charm, the grace and _tradi- tion of yesterday. So, in the cool jade spaces of the Casino Theater our 1927 audience wandered about, while mingled with them in spirit were those others of yesterday — the slender-waisted, alabaster-skinned wo- men; the courtly, suave, graceful men who danced and made love and had their fun many years ago. Not so very different, after all, when it comes down to fundamentals! The past and tie present are at one when it comes to art, intelligence, and the adventure of living. Gold leaf and salt air! The tradition, grace, beauty of an era that has passed, and the tang of modern thinking! A tremendous combination! Mr. Moses Taylor, President of the Newport Casino Theater Co., Inc., has worked valiantly for his organization and deserves the success he has achieved. THE PARIS OPENINGS (Continued from page 101) —the real thing. We have had every- thing—beads, feathers, leather, spangles. So I am using a golden and a copper metal at neck-line, belt, cuffs, or on skirt fringes. And here—look at this sleeve.” <A little frock in dark bottle-green crépe, with slightly fulled sleeves embroidered in flowers done in tiny beads, exactly like the beaded bag of your great-grand- mother, with a few blossoms in strass. “If women wear diamond _ bracelets playing golf,” said he, ‘‘they surely won’t object to a bit of strass on a day-frock. Sleeves are more varied; the monopoly of the plain tight sleeve is over. “My collection upholds the gold standard,” he went on. ‘Lots of the new Rodier and Meyer materials threaded with gold. And let me draw your atten tion to this sumptuous gold satin from Coudurier. Never throw away a scrap! The gold is pure, solid money. Mr. Coudurier told mc that he took back a length of it the other day, with gold in it worth seven thousand francs! ‘**Now, look at the proportions of this dress,’ he said, halting a gown in smoky gray georgette. e“‘It has an apparently shorter waist-line, not because it is set higher, but because the skirt is longer. The waist is gradually creeping upward, but it will be a long time before it actu- ally gets to the end of the ribs, its natural place, if it ever does, generally.” By this time the evening gowns were passing. I noticed a novel use of very neutral colors—grays, beiges, both com- bined, and a new shade, very much like my own hair, which is brown turning silver—a light taupe, I called it. “Don’t call it taupe,” protested Jean Charles, ‘‘that sounds so old.” So we compromised on ‘‘smoked pearl.” It had a diamond rose, set in real silver, on its shoulder strap. ** And now look at my jeweled dresses,” continued their creator, and a lovely procession began. A chiffon, embroidered with flowers and leaves that looked as if they had been carved from real coral and emeralds—a dark crépe sewn all over with oval pink corals, each surrounded with tiny diamond chips. Another with tur- quoises, and a third in beige chiffon sprinkled with sapphires. I thought of the splendid pearl-strewn gowns that Catherine de Medici took with her when she set sail from Italy, pale, plain, and shrinking, to be Queen of France. There must have been pickings in those days for the servants that tidied up after a party. Dozens of frocks of thin nets, and even of old-fashioned point d’esprit, look as if they had been caught out in a shower of diamonds. Some of them have intriguing little removable boleros—the real Span- ish thing—in contrasting colors. \ black net frock is embroidered with bou- quets of infinitesimal beads, very ** Ro- mantic’”’ in feeling. ‘“‘The evening gowns are all longer,” concluded Mr. Worth, ‘‘even though length may be at one point only. They must give ‘“‘an impression of greater importance this winter, but still remain simple enough to avoid all suggestion ol the robe de style—that word style kills everything.” At the very end came a “kick” in the form of a black and white bathing-suit, with very short knickers, which Mr. Worth christened ‘‘minus-fours.” CHEZ LOUISEBOULANGER OU cannot write about the Louise- boulanger collection as you would about any other, because Madame Bou- langer is such an individualist. But she is an individualist who is influencing the entire mode, and that gives her collection an importance far greater than it would possess were it merely a succession of beautiful, picturesque gowns. Her clothes are a combination of both revolutionary (Continued on page 200)

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200 METTEZ VOTRE DEAU AU RECIME LACTE Nol 1 | | nee NoT a LOTION eecesee cece Nol 1 DOWER .ccececcceee LAIT INNOXA 9 4 Liquid Cleanser. Kin Foo) an)....... PowDer Base... one THE UNIQUE “MILK DIET FOR THE SKIN” Cenuinel y French - FormuLaled By Dr_Frangois DeBal, Frances Foremos! DermatoLogisl. FealureD By ALL FiPTH Avenue STores AnD Exclusive OHoDs THrougHouT THe Country. THe INNOXA BookLeTWwill Be MaileD To you on ReQuesl.ADDress.INNOXA Sod_FiPTH - dve —NY.Cily— HARPER’S BAZAR THE PARIS OPENINGS (Continued from page 198) and evolutionary ideas. This season’s show is the inevitable scion of last season’s, but it is inevitable plus, not minus. She seems to have special sources of material in the first place. As a matter of fact, her sources are the same as all the others, but she sees possibilities that they overlook, or else she treats the fabrics so characteristically that they appear to be something new. One might misquote of her “Le style est la femme méme.”’ Ex- amples of this special treatment are seen in an extraordinary affair of Coudurier’s new matclassé taffeta, a quilted thing of red and white and silver. It is made into a daring gown that deserves to be painted and hung in a gallery for the edification of future generations. ‘‘ This is an exotic,” you say, “and in exotic clothes it is easy to be original.”” But her use of the new printed velvets for almost strict tailleurs is an instance of the same specialization, in practical form. I hesitated long between the matclassé creation and the splendid afternoon coat which Luza has drawn. Finally, I de- cided upon the latter, because many of our readers could wear it, while the other is too personal for success with the majority. The “point” about this coat, which is really a cape, is the placing of the fox across the back and arms, so that when the mannequin draws it round her in the inimitable Boulanger way, an ab- solutely new silhouette is produced. She has done this wrap in several different materials, all of them lovely. If I were looking at the collection with you, I should draw your attention to the interesting mounting of skirts on blouses in many suits and day ensembles. They just run up over the thin material of the blouse and stop short. Sometimes they are belted somewhat lower with a narrow belt, often of gold. You will see an ex- ample of this in the details on page ninety- eight. The decoration of the blouses is extremely special. They are painted, appliquéd, or embroidered, with a drift of pink petals which made me hum the Flower Duet from “Butterfly” as I watched them. The new evening gowns also betray their parentage. There are new versions of the Boulanger “pouf,”’ immense loops set at the back in a “‘centaur’’ silhouette; and lamé gauzes, flowers drowned in molten gold, with bolero tops and skirts trailing at the back and short in front— the peacock outline. Many of these skirts are slit up into uneven panels over tighter underskirts of plain lamé, while the hips are wrapped in the same. A black jetted net, with a short bolero and double ruffled skirt and a madly uneven hem-line, has its oval décolleté outlined with a wreath of scarlet and green flowers like Hawaiian “lei.” A late interpreta- tion of her ostrich-trimmed gown of last season is done in gold, a fabric with raised polka dots on one side and dull mauve-pink on the other, with belt and two long trains fringed with pinky-mauve glycerinized feathers. You have to be Somebody, with a big, big ‘‘S,” to wear such gowns, but if you can get away with them, you relegate women in simple chiffon ‘‘rags” definitely to the back- ground. CHEZ CALLOT THER houses may develop special types but Callot is a specialist in everything. Here one finds most amusing, novel, practical sports clothes, for ex- ample a sailor’s blouse with a short skirt of robin’s-egg blue rubberized silk over a turtle-neck sweater, beside most sumptu- ous lamé draperies and sheath gowns embroidered like an ancient Chinese mandarin’s. There is a series of coats in beiges or new rust browns, all with a flare, heavily trimmed with brown or darker beige furs. Under these are frocks with drapery to the front or jabots at the side or diagonal inserts of gold cloth on wool in typical Callot fashion. An entire series of afternoon gowns of chiffon velvet, usually black trimmed with écru lace, has skirts softly full and hem- lines scalloped or uneven, but day skirts remain short. Blue serge is trimmed with lamé and dark cloth ensembles are shown with lamé blouses. Heavy satin is treated in this house like a sports fabric, velvet like cloth, and cloth like velvet. There are many printed and raised velvet gowns that are usually made very full in front, often with a deep point or points of fulness from neck to hem, held in by a jeweled belt at the hips. Another long series is of splendid tea gowns, some of them extremely rich while others are vaporous combinations of many shades of chiffon. Practical pajamas and Eastern creations of mani fold color are also shown. The splendid fur coats in this collection are all worked on most slenderizing lines. But evening clothes top the collection. Here you may find every type—immense skirts of tulle frills, robes de style in taffeta of unusual color combinations, and slender swathed robes of magnificent lamé or richest embroideries on satin, all slimness personified. A new note is an embroidered gown with one long point in back touching the floor and cut up to the knee in front—the whole thing a series of points turned downward. Over these magnificent gowns are shown splendid wraps often with shirred Medici collars. CHEZ CHERUIT T CHERUIT’S we find real creations. This is a word that is used extremely loosely in the couture; when a little striped jumper and plaited skirt attempts the dignified title of “creation,” you will acknowledge that the usage is loose if not ridiculous. But the things that Madame Wormser sponsors are really inventions. Materials that you would never think of putting together are harmoniously com- bined, and stuffs are handled with a dash and flare that are a constant surprise. Thin fabrics are treated as if they were heavy and heavy ones as if they were chiffons. The results are individual, original, artistic clothes, extraordinarily becoming to women with enough person- ality to wear them. : This is a brown collection, brown and gold, one might call it, for these are the chosen Chéruit colors. Every shade of brown from biscuit to deep ‘“‘seal”’ is represented, with a good number of models in the chestnut or tobacco tones that we are warned to look for this winter. There are also cocoa shades, and a reddish brown which is like nothing in the world so much as a plate of bisque d’écrevisse. As to gold, it appears threaded through woolen stuffs from Rodier, in buttons, buckles, and pins, in small-patterned brilliant lamés like the borders of Persian minatures, and in lace gowns, with a peculiar shaded effect; “as early art embrowns the gold,’’ Browning describes it. Impressed upon my mind are the evening gowns of heavy silks—moire, faille, thick satin, and that new lacquered gold satin that shines like the real metal. These are very simple in cut, their bodices on long slender lines, usually with a cross-over front, fastened at one side with two diamond buttons. The skirts are uneven in length and are very voluminous, but they have nothing of the conventional robe de_ style. I don't quite see how they avoid it, but they do. There is a gown of this character in scarlet moire that is a wonder. Moire appeals to Madame Wormser. Her most striking model is a black moire cape, its material twisted and turned and puffed and pulled in a mysterious fashion which makes an extraordinary effect when the thing is done. I particularly liked the daytime coats; very rich, often in black or dark brown velvet and of wonderful cut, flaring at the sides and heavily furred. There is one in “cloche” shape with big godets set under each arm, both edged with wide bands of brown and_bleached- white skunk, while the high straight- round collar matches. . Striped velvets are used uniquely in this collection, and there is also a striped material of black silk and gold. Velvets (Continued on page 202) | | st natldaatlianinad yi Ce

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» for OCTOBER 1927 n corsets-assured service Stooping, bending, sitting— every movement of the body is a challenge to the service-quality of the elastic. In America’s finest corsets, the supreme service-qual- ity of Kenlastic is the answer. Discriminating women look for the mark that identifies this supe- tior fabric— a wavy blue line in- side the corset, at top and bottom. Kenlastise - the life of fine corsets i ae Copyrighted 1927, James R. Kendrick Co., Inc., Philadelphia— New York ; : ‘ 4 ,- This Exquisite lsyetastae adds to the beauty of your Watch | C{ { | aces PEARL BRACELET $10.00 Gold Filled Attachments ; 4 ; | / $20.00 Solid # : x / 14 Karat Attachments & $100.00 : Platinum Attachments : ATTACHED TO 3 YOUR WATCH As strong as genuine pearl bracelets costing a hundred 7 j j times as much STRUNG ON CHAIN MANUFACTURED PEARLS PAT / From your jeweler. If he cannot / supply you, write us. JACK J. FELSENFELD 15 Maiden Lane New York mg Olel cere THE SPEAKER BEAUTIFUL 5 Pe a 3 ) Vogue model illustrated, No. 10, $26 The Only Radio Speaker that Beautifies the Home ‘Vogue Speakers please the most exact- ing taste. ..add life, beauty and dis- tinction to any home. The tone quality satisfies the most critical desire for natu- ral reproduction. No wonder the wom- an who makes the home and her hus- band, who pays for it, are enthusiastic RICHARD T. DAVIS, Inc. about the Vogue, the only genuinely beautiful radio speaker. By all means, see Vogue first—let your eye and ear decide, Finished in brown walnut crackle, em- bossed with gold; grilles and base carv- ings of unusual design—$19.50 to $55; slightly higher west of Rockies. 5252 Broadway CHICAGO 9 ‘Viyella The Original Tub Flannel ‘Ramada’ All-Wool Crepe va The New Dress Fabric William Hollins & Company, Inc. 45 East 17th St. New York City

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Forty-NINTH ST. New York FirFTH AVENUE AT Dept. No. 17 Fall's | Smartest W oolens | OU will want to see " these beautiful fabrics for coats and frocks. Just write for samples. All mail orders are promptly filled. Wool Velvet Coating—A soft, lus- trous pile fabric in all the new shades and black. 54 inches wide. $12.50 to $14.50 a yard. Gloveskin Twill — The cashmere weave has an exceptionally soft fin- ish. New Autumn colors and black. 54 inches wide. $8.75 a yard. Karavan Camel Cloth—A very hand- some all-wool fabric, suitable for sports or town coats. New colors. $8.50 to $xg.s0 a yard. Imported Broadcloth — Fine quality with a high luster. In black and light colors. 54 inches wide. $4.95 to $8.75 a yard. Herringbone Tweed —Woven from genuine Camel's hair. Very smart. 54 inches wide. Ss.50 a yard. Rodier’s Mousli-Crepella—The finest and loveliest of sheer woolens. Wide range of colors. 42 inches wide. $6.50 a yard. Wool Kashmir Twill—Light weight, firm quality that tailors well. Wide range of new colors. 54 inches wide. $5.50 a yard Imported Checks and Plaids —New sports effects in a wide variety. Also excellent designs and colors for girls’ school dresses. 54 inches wide. $4.50 a yard. All-wool Jersey —French-spun and the finest quality made. Wide range of colors. 54 inches wide. $2.95 a yard. Serges, Twills and Reps in black and navy blue — Excellent qualities. 54 inches wide. $3.75 to $7.50 a yard. Our new Fall and Winter Catalogue shows many other lovely fabrics. Write for your copy, it is free. HARPER’S BAZAR THE PARIS OPENINGS (Continued from page 200) but they are more often vel- or rather solid, straight-pile thin transparent chiffon appear, veteens, weaves, not velvets. The little jackets of spangles that Madame Wormser calls ‘“‘smokings” are seen again, especially a stunning one in bright green and black of modern design, which has a full ciré chiffon skirt of black. Spangles are still favorites. There is a bright blue chiffon gown beautifully embroidered with crinkly silver paillettes; there is also a redingote for evening, entirely made of black jet spangles, the revers and cuffs of pale coral color. CHEZ PREMET HRONIC kickers invariably leave Paris, after the collections have been shown, wailing the same old parrot cry of “Nothing new!” If I hear them doing it this year, I shall know that they over- looked the Premet collection, at least. Madame Charlotte has lavished enough new ideas on it to last for several seasons. Yet you can easily imagine yourself wearing them, and that, you know, is something of a triumph. There is nothing easier than mere novelty. All you have to do is to put a casserole on your head and walk down the Rue de la Paix. But to create wearable novelty is quite another story. So my best Reboux hat is off to Madame Charlotte this season. The collection begins at once to be “‘different.”” One of the first models is a sports suit, with a long, almost straight coat, slightly flared at the sides, buttoned from collar to hem, and worn over discreet knickerbockers, and one of the angora sweaters which make me think of the fluffy “tams” we used to have as children. Many sports models are shown with short jackets of shaved lamb and other flat furs, very young and supple. They are tied with big smart cravattes. The afternoon feeling is very strong. Premet is one of the houses that thinks it high time that the newcomer “Sports Wear” should be cold-shouldered into her place. Gown follows gown; in velvet of all kinds, plain and printed, including Bianchini’s ‘“‘cross-hatched” velvet in Oxford gray, in satin using the two sides, and in crépe. Incrustations and applications mark nearly every model with the cachet of fine workman- ship. Skirts are full at the front or the side; there is a “hippy” feeling about them in the modern contradictory way. To accentuate the fact that her hips are negligible, the é/égante draws attention to them. An amusing frock in black satin is sewn all over the bodice with scraps of white kid, looking rather as if the wearer had been caught in a par- ticularly heavy snowstorm. There are flocks of black gowns, lightened with gold jewelry, or with the new “simili” diamonds. Just when you have decided that colors are somber, there is a trumpet call of bright red. But when the evening gowns began to pass I grew quite excited. Their skirts are downright long! They were let down gradually, as it were, with a group of crépe or satin frocks, much longer in the back than in the front, but with the length made less apparent by deep hems of lace or semi-transparent material, often of a different color, such as coffee with black. And then came the really “different” gowns. Groups of white satin, or black velvet, their hem-lines running to extremes, both of length and of shortness. Such a wildly jagged hem-line you never saw. Luza_ has drawn two of them, but they look less fantastic in rest than in motion. After these, some lovely tulle gowns, with swathed bodices of black ciré satin or gold lamé and skirts in frills dipping to the carpet in the back. Baron de Meyer has photographed one for the next number. Then a _ real ‘ Romantic” reminiscence—a frock of tulle and taffeta, jet black, the skirt covering the feet all round, and the neck-line cut to display real champagne-bottle shoulders and outlined with an artless wreath of roses! CHEZ D@UILLET AS INCRUSTATIONS and _appli- cations are the /eitmotif of Premet’s collection, diagonal lines are the basis of Deeuillet’s. He is seeing us this year in planes and angles, in points and triangles, and parallels running from one side of the body to the other on a slanting line. His silhouette, considered in its proper aspect as a mere outline, is not much changed, so he has gone to work to complicate and elaborate what is con- tained between its bordering lines. This dress principle, you know, is one of the guiding stars of the winter collections. A series of charming sports frocks, in fine djersakashas, begins the show. One in a gamut of blues with zigzags round the middle of the body intrigued Luza so greatly that he wanted to draw it. You will find it on page eighty-nine. The black frock that he has drawn with it is a good example of Decuillet’s use of diagonal lines. The afternoon frocks are legion. All the new velvets, and satins used on both sides, are favorite materials for them. On page eighty-six you will see a black velvet frock, touched with white, whose ruffles are an excellent illustration of the greater femininity of afternoon clothes this season. Black and white, by the way, is a favorite combination here. Other colors are blues, from mid- night to pastel, and browns, including the revived chestnut shades. There is also a brownish rose, just like the color of the stems of a rose-bush. The afternoon coats worn over these soft and pretty frocks are both fuller and handsomer than most of those we have been wearing. They are all cut with flare somewhere, and lavishly trimmed with rich furs. But the house of Deeuillet is known for its evening gowns, so I must not lose any more time in getting to them. A real ‘“‘lady’s gown” is the faint pink model drawn by Luza. Some of the simpler ones have three- quarter length chiffon-velvet coats, in contrasting or matching color, which may be slipped on or off and make a charming and useful accessory. Evening colors include the new pale yellow, rose, mauve, chartreuse, black, white, and striking combinations of black and gold and black and silver. CHEZ JENNY ‘WO new silhouettes are the high spots of Jenny’s collection. You will see one of them on page eighty-seven, and the other in the Last Minute sketches. One is a revival of the princess line, which we used to think could not be done successfully without a corset under it. Jenny has proved how wrong we were. As she does it, it is perfectly adapted to the supple modern figure. The other is an adaptation of the bolero, that jacket of varying length which has decided here to be itself. These two “lines,’’ how- ever, are merely the salient points of a rich collection, rich in fabric, in color and in ideas. The modern woman finds everything she needs for a complex existence at this modern house. She may begin with bathing suits, some of which are frankly eccentric, while others are eminently wearable. She will find one of the smartest raincoats in beige crépe that I have ever seen. Sports things, of course, including excellent coats, cut with a new look of flare in the back, which is note- worthy, and with a feeling of men’s overcoats of the “Romantic” period in their somewhat fitted body lines and ample skirts. From these, she may go on to afternoon frocks, and to evening gowns, both simple and gorgeous, accord- ing to ‘occasion. Jenny, you know, has had the excellent idea of showing her models in groups according to color and material, accenting their points by the force of repetition. First a group of gowns in Jenny pink (faint old rose) combined with black or navy. Then a black series, with lace, with gold, and sometimes with diamonds. A group of lace gowns, both metal and (Continued on page 204) ( I =, 4 DRA ARRON A NA nA A RS A ON NNN OOD OED © PR LINN Ni ao pi 09090 ODO M4960 AA MAMA BAAR AAR A SARA AAA AAS

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for OCTOBER 1927 ° 0 3 Uy ) J q Q e | Deore ) Hes. WetnstEIn HAS JUST RETURNED FROM ABROAD AND IS SHOWING A “NEW GOLLEGTION OF GOWNS WRAPS GOATS FURS FOR Late Fall ax» Early Winter wHs PB. Weinstein Twenty West Fifty Sixth Street New ® York PARIS © 900 OD OMA OS OSAMA A SAA ERA SNA ERA ERA RANA AI LO BRIN OA ON LO OANA AOA OD OD =—TY—T YT YT -t YY2TT— Ne a Oe KAPOCK Silky Sunfast Fabrics For sunny windows, furniture and wherever permanence in color is desired Ce SeOrw er OtGeOee #OeOroroe *Seoreoe Jor the BRIDE - ELECT A perfect wedding is the ideal of every bride. So much of the detail can be planned by Dean’s, and always with the assurance of su- preme distinction. Wedding Cake in Monogrammed Boxes, the and novelties. Write for illustrated booklet, “Wedding Requisites.” FULL CATERING SERVICE WITHIN REASONABLE DISTANCE OF NEW YORK und NEW YORK Bride’s Cake—favors, decorations 628 FIFTH AVENUE Those who have used KApock at their sunny windows, during the past sixteen years, will not try any other material. And why should they? KaApock has absolutely proven its worth and economy beyond a doubt. The bright clear colors in KAPOcK are sun- proof and tub fast. Wise housewives will take no substitute for KAPOCK. Send toc in cash for the Drapery KAPOCK SKETCH BOOK Beautifully illustrated in colors A. THEO. ABBOTT & CO. 23rd Street & Allegheny Avenue Philadelphia Dept. J Make sure its KAPOCK—name on selvage Visit the KAPOCK HOUSE—PHILADELPHIA Nothing like it in the world

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204 Sak ‘we % A nr . ( ame le, & ‘ by aA £ ee. ; QUIZZICAL EYES . . what are they seeking, what asking as they gaze upon life, gaily, banteringly, with questions in their depths? They have captured the soft Jaughter of lilting brooks, the whimsy of moon-mist... and still they seek, ever seek... what? Tantalizing, bewitching, these quizzical eyes conquer their world with a kindly smile. But Quizzical Eyes so soon become hard, their gallant, bantering smile turned to the cold glitter of steel. And when that happens, gone is their vital attraction! But why let it happen? In Kathleen Mary Quinlan’s charm- ing Fifth Avenue Salon, you may observe, any day, many Quizzical Eyes. See them as they come in, tired, weary, disillusioned. Then observe them as they goout ... fresh, revitalized, all their wondering interest in life revived. Kathleen Mary Quinlan has discovered the Fountain of Youth for Eyes ... has proven over and over again that eyes can be kept young and lovely if their owners will but fulfill the Three Great Laws of Nature for Eye Youth, which Miss Quinlan discovered after a life-time of study. The laws are:— First, daily cleanse the eyes. Second, nourish the delicate tissue about them. Third, tighten the skin beneath them. Culled from rare herbs and precious flowers, the Quinlan Eye Trio enables every woman to perfectly fulfill these three laws in the privacy of her own home, with but little time or effort. Here are the preparations you will need: Quinlan Eye Bath. The strain of long active days of golf, motoring; nights of dancing . . . banished by this soothing, healing eye cleanser ¢ 4 1.00, 2.00 Quinlan Vah-Dah Eye Astringent. Tired, sag- ging muscles are in- \ stantlyinvigorated; ! dark circles and puffiness eradicated by this revi- talizing lotion. 3-005 Quinlan Vah-Dah Eye Cream. — Smoothes out the laugh-lines, crows’- feet; firms wilted lids, renews the waxen smoothness of youth, 5.50 , 2 2 @ 1,00, 2.00 ee? ?# QUINLAN EYE TRIOY Miss Quinlan’s booklet, “Youth for Tired Eyes,” is well worth sending for. She will be glad to mail it to you if you will write forit. You can find Quinlan Preparations for the Eyes, Skin and Hair in the leading shops everywhere. Or order direct from her Fifth Avenue Salon. Theor Mary Ul Salon ~ 665 Jifth Gvenue ~ New York. | many stuffs. HARPER’S BAZAR THE PARIS OPENINGS (Continued from page 202) Chantilly. Then a pink satin series; then one of spangled embroideries; then a white group, frosted with strass and silver; and, finally, sheath gowns entirely embroidered, leading up to a wonderful bride, with a five yard train of net strewn with pearl blossoms. Jenny’s skirts are all much fuller, and all the daytime ones are as short as ever. For evening they may have a long point somewhere. Her waist-line is coming up in the world. In a few models it looks as it did in 1915. One model is positively reminiscent of the ’nineties. Her collars are frequently high, and have a thousand little “tricks” about them. Her sleeves are always interesting. Often they combine two materials or two colors. Gold plays as great a réle in her house as in many others. Beginning with the tricots of her sports blouses, the Midas touch is over all. ‘*T begin something new every season,”’ said Madame Jenny, as we congratulated her on the showing, “‘but I never try to rush novelties into premature success. The strongest force of the French couture is its principle of slow and steady evo- lution. Paradoxically, anything too new, too unrelated to the past, becomes banal immediately!” CHEZ BEER HE first collection of a new designer brought a crowded attendance to the soirée pour la presse given by the historic house of Beer. Madame Germaine, one of the youngest of Parisian modelists, has been given a free hand in the establish- ment which has long been celebrated for sound tradition and perfection of work- manship. Her first collection was dis- tinctly worthy of her. I thought its highest point was reached in the really admirable coats, from tweed topcoats to voluminous evening wraps. The stiffest reversible coat materials were handled as a famous man’s tailor handles them; while the supple velvets and lamés were draped with equal feminine skill. This was a very complete collection, including everything from a_ green corduroy shooting suit to a splendidly draped, trained gown, in which one might be presented at Court. It in- cluded, also, modern pajamas and “‘old- fashioned” négligées, which to the heart of a real woman are quite irresistible. In a season in which color plays a leading réle many of the houses are sponsoring a special shade of their own—peacock blue at Lelong’s, three new brownish shades at Patou’s, etc. Beer is no exception. Here we find a new green, called “‘Lava,’’ which I have described in my notes as a pale sagey green. This was used for gowns of all types and materials. One, in lace, was worn under the splendid dark green velvet evening wrap drawn by Luza on page ninety-one. Another special color was a very deep dahlia red. The silhouette of many gowns for afternoon and evening is particularly fitted and slender. The lines of the body are closely followed, yet nothing looks tight or constricted. This means good cutting and extremely careful fitting. It is a line that is particularly becoming to a slim but rounded youthful figure. Special jewelry played as great a réle here as elsewhere. On simple dark dresses appeared large carved square buckles of Chinese jade. A white frock was embellished with a huge square emerald as a shoulder pin. A _ real novelty were the embroidered bracelets, done in large important’stones as well as in gold and silver threads, on one wrist only. CHEZ REDFERN MY FAVORITE model at Redfern’s was a black Chantilly lace gown, with a double skirt, short in front and very long and rounded in the back. It is one of the prettiest lace dresses of the season. This “elliptical” skirt, as it has been called, is probably the most striking note of the collection,and.is.interpretedin But to be drawn by Luza (on page ninety), I selected the ex cellent ensemble in black broadcloth, because it is an example of the season’s penchant for converging, geometrical lines. On pages 126 and 127 you will see the most amusing frock of the collection—in black satin, with a deco- ration of scraps of white kid that looks exactly like Dunand’s eggshell lacquer; and a bronze-brown chiffon frock, the skirt fringed with coq feathers, the bodice made of interlaced strips of the material—an idea that is found also at Yvonne Davidson’s (it was published in the August Bazar) and in a whole series of gowns at Lanvin’s. The general line here is much fuller in the skirts, even coats getting away from the pencil silhouette and adding fulness in one godet at the side front, or in the cut of the seams at the sides. Fur trimmings are lavish; foxes, complete with heads and tails, being much used for collars. There is a series of frocks on princess lines, the bodices loosely fitted and the skirts almost circular. Another princess model is in black velvet with strass embroidery up the front in one of the modern square designs. A new idea in evening ensembles is a three-quarter coat of black velvet with a white ermine collar, worn over a frock the skirt of which is black velvet bordered with the ermine in a band showing below the edge of the coat, and the bodice white velvet sprinkled with strass. All the new materials, including printed and raised velvets of small designs, were shown in this rich collection. The lead- ing colors were black, grays—especially the smoke grays—‘‘ middle” blues, and the new browns with the reddish or yellowish cast. Rodier’s kashas_ shot with gold are used a good deal for day- time ensembles. CHEZ MARTIAL ET ARMAND ADAME VALLET makes things very easy for the fashion editors, because she always explains, in a little speech, the Jeitmotif of her collection before it begins. This year, she an- nounced that last year’s silhouette was dead, and that this year’s was “‘modern Japanese,”’ with hobble skirts and tunics to the knee. And, just as we were picturing the horrors of hobbling as we remembered it before the war, she relieved our anxiety with the information that the tight underskirts would not be tight at all, because, though they looked as narrow as the path of virtue, they were finely plaited to give just three times as much space as they appeared to give. So that was all right. “Modern Japanese”’ we discovered to mean models with width in the top part, or a gown in box-plaits throughout its length, the plaits held in at the waist and hem; or some version of the tunic, long and straight, or slightly flaring. Some- thing of the same effect was given by a few models with huge sleeves held in at the wrist. Sports things are always strongly represented here. This year, in addition to smartly made playing and travel clothes, there is a novelty in the form of skirts, cut almost circular and finishing in well-fitted gaiters. These are worn with heavy, well-tailored topcoats and woolen sweater blouses. For the evening, many richly beaded gowns, some robes de style, and splendid wraps, both of fur and of velvet. Trim- ming furs for afternoon and evening are of fox, gray or blue, while for sport they are of shaved and unshaved lamb, Russian cat and natural seal. Many original ornaments, with much gold and many materials run with gold threads. Quantities of diamonds in embroideries, buckles, shoulder pins, belts, and buttons. A novelty is an embroidery of crystal on black satin, recalling the glass flowers that are so popular now. Lots of embroideries, as always at this house, especially in wool and in angora wool. As to materials, quantities of velvet, dotted velvet from Coudurier and checked: velvet» from: Ducharne,’ velours (Continued on page 206) ‘ |

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HARPER’S BAZAR THE PARIS OPENINGS Continued from page 204) de laine, and heavy brilliant broadcloth, crépe satin used on the two sides, georg- ette, and, for afternoon, some lamé gowns under woolen coats. Colors are blues of all sorts, then black, beige, and dove gray. At least half of the evening models are black. CHEZ LENIEF I HOPE it is not a breach of confidence to say that the Baronne Fouquier has been the inspiration of the winter collection at Lenief’s. Dark and striking in appearance, vitally interested in dress, and with a taste which is remarkably indi- vidual, she has taken to dress-designing like a duck to water. The result is an original and varied collection, full of ideas. It began with particularly good coats, including a caped coat in rather heavy beige material, wrapped round the body on an unusual line. Many ensembles, remarkable for their discreet yet colorful embroideries and incrustations of one material on another, in shapes and patterns that suggested an Eastern origin. Skirts in general full and longer; waists higher, some quite normal, often bloused. Amusing girdles and effects of swathed hips. sometimes given by making the last few inches of the full skirt, just below the belt, of a different material, much lighter in color than that of the rest of the gown, with a bolero above it. Many frocks with high collars, and most with long sleeves. A very amusing note was a frock called ‘‘ Yvette Guilbert,” in scarlet crépe, with a Zouave skirt, and long tight sleeves from wrist to just below the shoulder in shiny black satin, while the rest of the bodice was red. This, of course, was to suggest the long black gloves of the famous diseuse. Another exciting gown, called ‘‘ Penguin,” was made of black velvet with a white front—very much like ‘‘Alfred,” the black and white velvet mascot which has taken Paris by storm. This is a collection which stimulates the imagination by subtle reminiscences from other times and other lands. Russia, Turkey, Morocco, serve as inspiration in turn, but the whole is transmuted into wearable clothes by the sure hand of a woman of the world. CHEZ BERNARD At BERNARD'S special showing for the press I sat beside Monsieur André Meyer, whose house furnished many of the lovely woolens we saw made up into sports things and coats. He gave us a bit of interesting information about the colors that have been most successful, that is to say, of which his house has sold the largest quantities. ““Middle” blues, beige and beige-rosé, a brown that he calls taupe claire or light mole color, light greens, and especially the new yellow-greens, but no reds at all. This summed up, fairly well, the color scheme of the Bernard collection, which features greens and blues and sets its palette this year with soft and faded tones. Here we find the verdigris shade which is neither gray nor blue nor green, but contains all three. This is another collection that is shot with gold, from the new gold-threaded woolens to belts of flexible gold cords on two-piece dresses. Daytime models have gold jewelry specially made for them, and evening gowns have their own diamond ornaments. The afternoon coats are all more ample than they were last season, and many of them close on a long diagonal line ending in a godet at the left side front, sometimes trimmed with fur. An interesting model in chartreuse cloth had a long attached vest and scarf of mole worked in diamond- shaped pieces. It is sketched on page one hundred and twenty-six. Monsieur de Monvel has sketched one of the best of the sports models, in a new yellow- green kasha combined with crépe de Chine. Its “‘point” is the Deauville handkerchief, which, in its newest version, is made of the same material as the frock, and not of a printed or contrasted material. This is true of most of the sports collections in Paris. CHEZ JANE REGNY VEN Jane Régny, specialist of classic sportswear for women, has _ used velvet this season for some of the most attractive models in her attractive collection. Though she is quite rightly opposed to eccentricity in sports clothes, she continually renews her ideas for them, so that her best models are smart, practical, and novel, at the same time. Something of a triumph! She makes her velvet and velveteen, this year, into simple little suits worn with a woolen sweater-blouse, sometimes run with threads of gold. Otherwise, her materials are heavy cheviots for topcoats, basket- weave woolens, checks and line plaids, kashatulla, crepella, and every sort of wool jersey that has been imagined hy the manufacturers. Her silhouette is straight, but there is always plenty of room to move freely in her models. Her skirts have plaits usually at the sides. A novelty is the long tunic-blouse, which keeps its sporting look in spite of its form, made in the new kashatullas and patterned jerseys from Rodier. She has a series of one-piece frocks, entirely in woolen materials, and also many two-piece frocks on which the splashy incrustations of crépe de Chine, which was the leading note last season, are replaced by small incrustations of crépe making neat, regular designs. Crépe satin replaces crépe de Chine for some of the skirts with wool jersey sweater blouses. Excellent topcoats, more ample than they have been, are done in heavy woolens, with big pockets cut in one with the wide belts. Two coats in rubberized crepella, which is new, one of them going on over the head and buttoning to the waist only, in white lined with yellow. Many buttons, often of steel. Quanti- ties of belts made of linked steel rings, with a fastening of three rings like a cloverleaf. Neck-lines round, and follow- ing the line of the collar-bone. Fur collars and fur cravattes, and uncurled **Mongolie,”’ or moufflon-sheep, used as a trimming fur. Sober colors, and a trim, neat, almost professional air about the sports clothes, which makes them really appropriate for their purpose. CHEZ YTEB PART of my favorite Yteb model is drawn by Monsieur de Monvel, part is on page eighty-six, and a third part is on the pages of details drawn by Luza. ““What a complicated model it must be,” you say. And so it is. It is one of those new costumes (“‘new,” of course, is a relative term) which consists of so many pieces that it makes a wardrobe in itself. It begins with a caped coat of natural kasha trimmed with lynx; goes on to a straight undercoat, without fur, of the same, and then finishes with a two-piece frock, the jumper in fine kasha-jersey and the skirt in the material of the coats. The neck is finished with one of those little crépe handkerchiefs which is the newest version of the perennial Deauville handkerchief. As the cape itself is separate and can be worn alone, you see how many different combinations can be made with all these pieces. It might be called a six-piece costume, Madame Yteb, also, has been thinking this year in terms of geometry. Many of her gowns are on the principle of double printed triangles, their points meeting in front at the waist-line, like balancing two pyramids one upside down on the other. She is also faithful, how- ever, to the draped gown, often with a bow on one hip, which she has been making for some time and which she does this year for evening in moiré, in velvet, and even in taffeta. Some of her favorite colors for them are purplish in tone, deep blue mauves rivaling fuchsia reds. Another favorite evening shade is pink, sometimes in odd tones, deep coral, or crushed raspberry. Over these are splendid lamé coats, simple in cut, but gorgeous in material and richly furred. (Concluded on page 208)

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— — for OCTOBER 1927 207 Permanent Waves of Distinction , Ag ATALTTER 590 FIFTH AVENUE New York Bryant 7615 Careful study of individual style and ree. quirements—as well as expert perform- ance in all the chic new coiffures— / makes the permanent waving at the J. Schaeffer Salon—a Permanent Satisfaction. / f All work personally f supervised by J. Schaeffer We y S, owing FALL MODES G origin al Creations o | Sal Mile rim (Americas Zoremost > oa BS Geator MILG Broadway a 744 St. Wew York CHICAGO ~ CLEVELAND ~ GOWNS A new — wd yo 5 Bate Geller and d tined to soar to Style brochure te height of pop” will be sent the fash - on request. ng larity amo sonable wome™ ro sgieateegeaeamemee || Andrew Geller | waa _ NEW YORK ) — exquisite creation in black enamel, carved jem jade and diamonds—herald- ing the vogue for the coming season. Designed and made in our own shop, this dainty, exclusive piece is but one of many fashioned in the Brand-Chatillon mode. There is, for example, an original selec- tion in rings, brooches, lorgnettes, bracelets and other jewelry ready for your inspection. You will find a friendly, personal service that is likewise distinctive. Jewelers and Silversmiths 725 Fifth Avenue - New York City Between 56th and 57th Streets cw Brooklyn: ¥m. Wise & Son, Inc. 440 Fulton Street

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208 . g cant Dee cliiecs Tiny lines disappear ee- the skin is smoothed and whitened. For this is the one cream favored for general use in France ae delicate, fragrant, magic La Reine des Crémes! The quaint little porcelain crock eee proudly flaunt- ing its record of Paris gold medals won as far back as 1885, 86, 88 and ’89...is an absolute essential on the dressing table of every smart Parisienne. CW hat a perfect base it is for powder! Light, feathery, quickly vanishing. ee powder clings to the smooth, lasting foundation made by La Reine des Crémes. It comes in five sizes of fascinating por- | celain crocks...with three convenient sizes of tubes for traveling and week-end use...it is obtainable at yourfavorite shop. Of course this creation of Maison Lesquendieu is made, packaged and sealed at Ivry- sur-Seine. A UNIQUE BOOKLET on cosmetiques by Lesquendieu . . . translated from the . - sent you on request. French . OUNCED LES KAWN-DUH Important, too, is La Poudre Reine de s Cremes ** powder of finest texture which im- a faintly perfumed parts the delic acy of youth and beauty to the skin. And Savon Reine des Crémes +++ as0ap with the sooth- ing properties of the cream to keep the hands soft. A creamy lather and refreshing fragranc emake it delightful for the bath. J. LESQUENDIEU, Ine. Howard L. Ross, President, 45 West 45th Street, New York City. HARPER’S BAZAR THE PARIS OPENINGS (Concluded from page 206) CHEZ MARY NOWITZKY N NEWLY decorated salons, still in her special blue, with masses of white flowersabout, Mary Nowitzky showed usa collection that is cut sharply into two dis- tinct halves—pajamas and sports clothes. The pajamas, again, are divided into several types. There is the simple bed- room afiair, of crépe or georgette, almost untrimmed, depending only on color harmony for its effect. There is the trim, sporting, beach variety; the elaborate pajama of marvelous materials, with rich embroideries or colorful pzinted applications, for receiving in at home— some in thin georgettes and chiffons, others in wonderful cozy Rodier fabrics. Then there are all the tea gowns— trailing sumptuous things—Doge’s robes of scarlet velvet over slim white satin, or coats of gold lace over scarlet chiffon, accented with rich dark fur. And I must not forget the novelty of the collection— house coats, some warm and comfy, others in thin materials for hot American rooms; one of them with an immense green velvet collar, which, she explains, can be turned up to hide an unmade complexion when one interviews the cook or the chauffeur in the early morning. I particularly liked ‘‘ Montparnasse,” with its velvet blouse, which is sketched on page eighty-six; ‘‘Snowdrop,” like a Watteau Pierrot in spotless white; “Thais” in georgette of just the red and blue that go best together; and **Méduse,” a wonderful coaty thing in one of Rodier’s inimitable patterned materials. The most original sports frock is sketched on page one hundred and twenty-seven. It is made of ‘“ Velours Drouget,”’ a brown and beige checked velvet, with a collar and belt of trans- parent cellophane, which reminded me of the set in ‘“‘La Chatte,’’ one of the new ballets of the Diaghileff organization. **Lucette,”’ extremely effective for a slim straight figure, in oddly used Rodier striped kasha, is sketched by Monsieur de Monvel. ‘“ Bronx” is a two-piece in Rodier mixture, with much fulness in the front of the short tunic. This was very new. Some smartly tailored coats com- pleted a collection which is the best this original specialist has ever shown. CNUEZ YVONNE DAVIDSON ME:- DAVIDSON is an indomitable *"* woman. On the eve of a serious operation she created a collection, which, if small, makes up in daring what it may Jack in quantity. At the moment when designers are playing ‘“‘High-low Jack” with the waist-line, she comes out with a Directoire belt, right up under the bust, and she makes you like it! There is a midnight blue net frock dotted with gold and with gold embroidered edges, which, looking rather like the material in a David painting to begin with, is made into a high-waisted slim gown worthy of Josephine herself. And there are coats which are like Directoire fashion-plates, men’s fashion plates, bien entendu, one with the short ruffled capes which have survived this period for over a hundred years on the liveries of smart coachmen. Sut the Directoire is not Mrs. David- son’s favorite line. What she loves is the slender fitted bodice, showing every curve (and lack of it) in a slim youthful body, and then flaring generously into an almost circular skirt. She loves to do this in grays, using several shades. The gown that she posed in for Mary Mac- Kinnon is in two grays, and forms part of her new collection. This line appears for sports, for afternoon, and for evening. Some of her youthful evening frocks are simplicity itself, a mere blouse of satin, tightly fitted at the hips and waist and bloused flatly over it, with a satin kilt below that swings prettily about young limbs. For the older woman—still slim— she shows a draped gray velvet, shaded from silver to oxford, with a big bow and a long end at one side. I liked very much her fur-lined coats, which manage to remain unbulky. One of them, lined only half-way with hamster, has delightful pockets also lined with fur, just the thing for chilly fingers. Her colors are gray, blue, beige, some green, and black and white. She is such a fervent believer in a one-color scheme, that she is making special underwear, exactly matching in shades and mateiial, to wear under each gown. With her flaring short-skirted frock in two grays, for example, she offers little culottes in the two shades of gray, stopping well above the knee just covering the garters, and a chemise to match which shows at the pointed neckline of the gown. In flesh satin, or in white if the gown is white, bordered with flat scallops of georgette, this lingerie is charming under the special evening gowns which jt is de- signed to complete—a rare refinement of luxury. CHEZ Max * BHOURRURES MAX” over the door means Madame Leroy, as all Paris and a good proportion of America knows. With her silver-gray hair, her silver-gray furrier’s blouse in heavy faille, her silver-gray shoes and stockings, and the scarlet note of her lips and her ribbon of the Legion of Honor, she is as effective as a poster in the silvery- gray setting of her handsome house. She invited the press to an afternoon showing of her latest models, and explained them and their origin as interestingly as a lecturer. She had had the good idea of grouping the models according to the pelts that composed them. First, we were shown three little Breton jackets of lapin ondulé, the latest name under which clipped, dyed, and narrow filleted rabbit is masquerading at the moment. One was cream, one beige, one gray, and they were intended for wear at autumn resorts with appropriate tweed or kasha frocks in the same colors. Then followed the new veau mort né (unborn calf) coats, now made up with- out spots, but more tender and supple than ever, of which I particularly liked a plain black one on strictly tailored lines. Then the zebra series: first, antelope and chevrette (young goat) stencilled like zebra, then a wonderful Bianchini material imitating its startling brown and cream bars, and, finally, the exotic skins themselves, just as Baron de Meyer photographed them in the August num- ber, when they were so new that no one had yet seen them. [I shall not be sur- prised if, next time, she offers us a coat made of unicorn skin with its horn turned into buttons! The seal group was particularly in- teresting. We had spotted natural seal like a plush, then a bright brown seal, very lustrous and looking something like coarse broadtail trimmed with beaver. Then *‘‘sealskin”’ in the dark brown that our mothers considered its natural color; and, finally, many versions of “imitation” seal—Hudson, beautifully worked in bands with the fur going in two ways, and excellent coats in Hudson-dyed rabbit, about the origin of which Madame Leroy was refreshingly frank. We were shown smart sporty things in caracul, and afternoon coats in taupe, with the new suggestion of fulness in their skirts, and often with a hem-line which is longer in the back and lifts elegantly in the front. Then the new dégradée mole—each narrow filet shaded from beige to brown in a splendid cape. Kolinsky, sable dyed, and in its natural bright yellow; mink, dark and shadowed, as it should be, with electric blue; smartest and thinnest of broadtail, faintly water- marked, one with a huge mink scarf which looks like a collar and is removable at will. And then came the ermine group in both white and beige. Said Madame Leroy: “Don’t cone found ermine ombré with ermine d'été. The first is dyed white ermine, and the second is the natural summer coat of the animal. I use the first for linings, and for a sports fur. Ermine, you see, has fallen from its high estate. What was once the fur of kings is now the lining of the smart woman’s topcoat!” All the fur models, she explained, are repeated in fabrics, trimmed with ex- pensive real, or less expensive “‘imitation’ furs, according to one’s purse. it ia ~, i ERTIES am | TRAN =

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—— for OCTOBER 1927 209 HARPER’S BAZAR VLOTOLINE WAVE TRAVEL DEPARTMENT | — | from Shampoo to Shampoo You may choose to wear your hair in natural looking, soft large waves with ringlets over the ears or in the flat, sculptured, classic curls that smart European women are adopting. "Arrange it in any way you aneil offers complete and authentic information and helpful advice upon all matters pertaining to choose after dampening it with VLOTOLINE, the harmless, colorless, ‘ oe iat : non-alcoholic, greaseless, curling fluid and that arrangement will last travel—cruises, sailings, itineraries, hotels, resorts; until your hele moods shampooing again. as well as what to see, where to go and what to wear Use it at home with curlers or combs or take it with you to your hairdresser’s, if he does not carry it, and have him moisten your hair with it, preferably after a shampoo, then marcel it or set it with combs or fingers. Excellent for setting a permanent wave or rewaving a transformation. With the use of VLOTOLINE, which is unaffected by heat or dampness, your waving and curling troubles are at an end. and to take with you. A line, if you live out of town, will bring the informa- tion, booklets or descriptive matter you wish. Or if you live in New York, the Travel Bureau is most convenient, just opposite the Ritz. You are urged to avail yourself of this service. tn) © Macy GIMBE! 4 ounce bottle $1.00, enough for 3 or 4 months SAKS-HERALD SQUARE At leading Depart- ment Stores or by mail | (in New York and Ui ' } om y BLOOMINGDALE LOTO [ | (\ [ FRANKLIN-SIMON # | HEARN Nam (VLO-TO-LEEN) Reg. U S.Pat Off | HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL & TRAVEL DEPARTMENT Brooklyn) Lorp & TAYLOR SaAKS-FIFTH AVENUF ALTMAN STERN ABRAHAM & STRAUS BATTERMAN MARTIN OPPENHEIM COLLINS & Co, Viotoline Laboratories, Inc., Dept. G-9 ~| 24 East 42nd St., New York I Wem... 50c. for which send me a bottle of d "ll neve peggy AR gy Mig = 30 Vlotoline—enough for at least 4 applications. be without it. Mail this coupon with 50c. and we will send you a trial bottle—enough for four applications. S { 383 Madison Avenue New York City Name — Address - OFFER!-Try Viotoline ‘ 2 Restore the Color «) — Hair bobbed or, i long, if gray, is unfortunately a ba rrier to ‘ oe Ae éB al Restores the nat- v1 ural color, magnetic charm and lov eliness to your hair in ONE BRIEF APPLICATION at home and, you know, nothing so enhances your facial beauty as youthful hair. Prepared by Monsieur B. Paul, French hair coloring specialist. Composed of herbs, Henna, and other harmless Movies frequently strain Eyes. Use Murine for relief When you return from a picture show with strained, tired eyes, ap- ply a fewdrops of harmless Murine. Almost ogee | they will feel “a strong and rested . . . ready for anything! Also use Murine after reading, Dainty Underwear for 15 cents! PEROTRTO TAAL COLA TA hI ingredients. Not affected by oils —previous dyes, shampoos, hair tonics, waving, Turkish or sea baths. Will not stain scalp, rub or wash off. An absolutely per- manent preparation, which have sold to millions of fastidious H women for 12 years. 14 shades, 4 Black to Blonde, $1.60. WHITE HENNA for lightening blonde hair grown dark, $2.25 Free Advice and Booklet. Tonic (Powerful stimulant) A promotes hair and (| bea » $5. Mon. B. PAUL FX as TAIL POT = LOW Pe To give your underwear and stock- ings delicate, true tones, you must use real dye. For the gorgeous shades like you see in things when they are new, use the original Diamond Dyes. It’s just as easy to Diamond Dye almost anything you wear—a faded dress, even your old suit, or the hang- ings in the home—a brand new color right over the old. Home dyeing is lots of fun—and Diamond Dyes make home dyeing just as perfect as any professional could do. Diamond Dyes | Dip to TINT — Boil to DYE Big Dye and Tint Book—FREE! A valuable book, “Color Craft,” free and postpaid, if you write. Full of pic- tures and suggestions for dyeing and tinting dozens of things at home. To be sure of a copy clip this coupon now: > oe ee DIAMOND DYES ¢ Burlington. Vermont ; Please send Color Craft. the big illustrated book on home dyeing and unting - free ’ Caxapian Appress: W1npsor, Ontario, sewing or office work to brighten and refresh your eyes. And after motoring or outdoor sports to cleanse and soothe them. A month’s supply costs but 60c. ne EYES- Mail to Murine Co., Dept. 24, 9 E. Free Chia, Se. ,Chicago, ferbookchecked: ye Beauty” O “Eye Care”’ ———, i Address it State = Ci Please PRINT your name ond eddrese in PENCIL

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cA qoocoseqp

after eight years of research Charles of the Ritzhas perfected a new line of hair preparations now being offered through the leading shops. Frictions (in four pe rfume. ‘), Zar, Pine and Henna Shampoo, Brillian- line, Egyptian Henna, Tonic for Dry Hair, Tonite for Ody Hair, Dandruff Lotion No. 1 and No. 2, Special Oil, Henna Leaves, Camomile, Blueina and Water Waving Lotion.

RITZ | ene wren RRAAANN! HAIRDRESSER TOHER MAJESTY THE SMART AMERICAN WOMAN S A L oO N S RITZ CARLTON HOTEL Vanderbilt 4645 Te “ay fe pe ae ao .& »* Plaza 2527 THE MADISON HOTEL egent 2835 GLADSTONE HOT E L Plaza 7455 wWakweerF ASR BOG 8 & inelander 2 PAR K CHAMBERS Plaze #114 BARCLAY OTs t Murray Hill 6424 K I .: = T 0 A F K Plaza 178 RITZ CARLTON HOTEL Atlantic City, N. J RITZ CARLTON CLOISTERS Boca Raton, Florida RITZ Gastron HOTEL estton, Mass SOCIAL CALENDAR for OcTOBER 192 OCTOBER 1—Wedding of Miss Alice Wheelock, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. an H. Wheelock, of New York, to Edwin H. Watts, in St. Mark’s Church, Mount Kisco, N Wedding of Miss Edith Hyde Colby, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Everett Colby, of New York, to Henry Longfellow de Kham, in St. Mark’s Episc« oe | Church, West Orange, N. J. Wedding of Miss Audrey Ryan, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Matthew Ryan, of New York, t Joseph a, Keon, in Church of the Blessed Sacrament, New York. Receptic yn at Park Lan Hotel Wecding of Miss Janet Adelaide Beck, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Bec k, of Yonker N.Y Spaulding A. Smith, in First Presbyterian Church, Yonkers. Ann | Seaedenens isan Show, Fifty Acre Field, Smithtown, L. I. (Annual Horse Show Ball, Smithtown Country Club, Smithtow n, L. I. Wedd.ng of Miss Olive Prince Rogers, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Oscar Rogers, of Mad n, N J , to Murray Clement Met omas, in Madison Annual Dog Show under auspices of Englewood Kennel Club, Englewood, N. J. First annual Ox Ridge Horse Show, under auspices of Ox Ridge Hunt Club, Darien, Conn Wedding of Miss Alice Louise Stein, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Conrad Stein, of Shippan Point, Conn., to J. Paul Stabler, at country home of bride’s parents in Shippan Point.

lea by Mrs. George C. Scott, of Framingham, 4 , in honor of her débutante daughter, Miss May Scott, at Fram - rham l¢ Wee Mrs. Je yhr vant Paine, of Weston, Mass., in honor of her débutante daus rhter, M Julia 2 Payne, at We. ston. Wedding of Miss Elinor Dorrance, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John T. Dorrance, of Radnor, Pa., to Nathaniel P. Hill, in Soden Tea by Mrs. Benjamin Franklin Pepper, of Chestnut Hill, Pa., to introduce her débutant ‘ hter, M Anne S. Pepper. Dinner-dance by Mr. and Mrs. George Willing, Jr., of Chestnut Hill, Pa., in honor of Mi \ S Pep eT H Races, Churchill Downs, k I t r October I I horne Park, ¢ lo r ( r

LOBER Lunct John S. Codr f Roxbury, Mz 1 honor of her déb ter, M } Ce e*3 * Roxbur Fall Tes I t | rginia I Springs Golf 1 Tenni ( Hot Sprir \ LOBER H } Metropolitan Jo Club, J L. lo 0 ao D s r p DD | is Danbury, ¢ To 0 D B Fair Horse $ , Brockton, M To } () Dog $ r \ Fair Associat Ricl \ To r 0 TOBER \\ g M b Nict { r of Mr Mr Charl \\ N Ne York, to } I C. Cox n 1 Nichol \ , I Park I H J ] ( eA ry ( B or of her t n M ( ( B \ D , fA | | ¢ Atl G To continue thr \ Dog S } I } 1¢ », Salt Lake ¢ Ut Te ) BER D i M L Br Mrs. Bernard W rd, Jr., in ft é Z Miss } Br M \ I d, at Milton ( try Clul Milt Ma Dog Show er pices of ¢ r Rap Kennel Association, Cedar Rapids, lowa | ' th Cictol . 7 f Wi i B I r Ir. and Mrs. W r L. Pate, of I \ ee 2 } I Sier Sherr ew Yor \r Dog Show under pices of Long Island Kennel Club, Brooklyn, N. ¥ \ g of M Katharine Ten Eyck Beardsley sughter of Mr. and Mrs. Hulbert Ten I Beardsle ff N. J., to Desmond Williams Millor, in I Wor “ iM ( I r hter Mr Mrs. Lucius Barnes Barbour H ( D Brov ~ ( r Hartfor Mrs. J B. 3 Bost r \ Betty Barrell, at Hami It I I | J r "i M r of léb ught | \ J ) ( r Polo ¢ D Mass. \ I ( r Mr. a Irs. I E. Ce y, of Boston O. He < I 7 k ( Hi S Ry ‘.¥ ] yugh O er J } th \ I t { ( I p \ sv ro gt TO } D Mrs. iW ff We Ma r of ] lary H.W t W J J J I rd Z ( Hill, Pa., to intro their t d Z ] Kosi Maly ghter of Harry T. Mf i BER 4 Dog St by B x ( r ( t w York ) G r Irs. J | Brook I 2 roduce ! g r,M Elizate« ( Lb Dog . England Be Clut Dog f Air Terrier ‘ Eng i, Bo Dog $ iB Bez ( \ } lp ) BER J r Mrs. Arthur Blake, of Dedham, Mass., in honor of her niece, Betty Bl J Db BER 14—Dance by Dr. and Mrs. Robert L. de Normandie, of Boston, in honor of their | te M Alice de Normandie, at I n, Mass Mrs. ( W iggleswortt M n, Ma n | r of her granddaughter, Miss H.W r at M Dog Show under pices of Kennel Club, Erie, P To continue through October 15. Dog Shov rau Inter k ( S Bend. I To continue HARPER’S “ Hand-tailored” in workmanship. Inspired in design. Our footwear speaks the spirit of the new season with authority and correctness. A stimulating variety of mate- rials and models. FRENCH BOOTERY 36 W. 5O “STREET. N.S BAZAR

Great Sore throat _-hoth inside and out apply and gargle {Absorbine sh HE ANTISEPTIC LINIMENT At all DRUGGISTS $1.25 nd for free trial bottle WE YOUNG, Inc ngfield, Ma

for

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for ove. OCTOBER 1927 “WHY NOT step out of the aff ono Teal ~of dull lifeless hair? Bring back those golden youth-giving lights — keep lustrous hair from growing dim— you CAN —this simple way: UST as a touch of rouge on the cheek adds much to the most flawless complexion—so docs this Shampoo, by reviving and accenting those youth-giving glint, add charm to the loveliest iffure. Dullness disappears in- — hair becomes soft, silky, Again those lovely stantly lustrou youthful lights are there to catch the admiring eye. No mystery about Golden Glint —just the finest of Sham- poos pl us a harmless and delight- rour hair. Millions regularly to keep hair ra- ful lustre for y lc? 7 45 1 jiant,youthful. Beauty specialists rill tell you of its benefits to hair ilp. Your friends will ask yu for your secret. 25¢ a pack- - at drug or toilet goods coun- rs. Or if not obtainable, write 1s direct! Money back if not delighted! J.W. Kobi Company, 6361 Rainier Ave., Seattle, Wash. thn, wy Golden Glint SHAMPOO Gives the hair a “tiny tint” SOCIAL CALENDAR for OcTOBER 1927 and Mrs. Samuel ¢ tnut Hill, Mas Helen Frost, OCTOBER 15—Wedding of Miss Edith Payson, daughter of Mr Payson, of Boston, to William A. Gardiner, in Church of Our Saviour, Ches Tea by Mrs. George Frost, of Boston, in honor of her débutante daughter, Mi in Boston Annual Dog Show under auspices of Middlesex County Kennel Club, Newton, Ma Dance by Mrs. Lindsley Loring, of Westwood, Mass., in honor of Miss Margaret Barney, at “Sunrise Farm,’ Westwood Annual Norfolk Hunt Club Fall Meet, Annual Dog Show under auspices of Dog Fanciers’ Association, Troy, N. Y Dance by Mr. and Mrs. Frederic Rosengarten, of Chestnut Hill, Pa., in honor of Miss Emily Penrose Rosengarten and Miss Janet Newlin, at Whitemarsh Valley Hunt Club, Philadelphia Annual Dog Show under auspices of Germantown Cricket Club Kennel A Phila delphia Annual Dog Show San Francisco Tenni at Medfield, Ma Ocation, of Bryn Mawr Kennel Association, Philadelphia California Club, San Francisco under auspice Championship Tournament, OCTOBER 16 of Fox Terrier Club, Philadelphia Annual Dog Show under auspice OCTOBER 17 of Western Beagle Club, Bass Lake, Ind Annual Dog Show under auspice OCTOBER 18—-Luncheon by Mrs. Percival H. Lombard, of Brookline, Ma in honor of her débutante daugl iter, Mi Rosamond Lombard | OCTOBER 1y—Specialty Dog Show by Boston Terrier Club of Buffalo, Buffalo, N.Y. To continue through October 20 Dance by Mrs. Alfred Curtis and Mrs. Sherman Hoar, of Concord, Ma in honor of Mi Helen Curtis and Miss Mary Butterfield, at Country Club, Concord t Newton, Ma in honor of her débutante daughter Tea by Mrs. Edward H. Bonelli of We Mi Barbera Bonelli Rose Tree Hunt Race Meet, Media, Pa. To continue through October 22 Ol a R 20-—Horse Races under auspices of Empire City Racing Association, Yonker Y. To continue through October 31 + incheon by Mrs. George C. Vaughan, of Boston, in honor of her débutante daughter, Mi , at Hotel Ritz Carlton, Boston under auspices of Memphi Janice Vaughar Annual Dog Show through October 21 Kennel Club, Memphis, Tenn. ‘To continue Farnsworth, of Brookline, Ma to introduce her débutants at Country Club OCTOBER 21-—Tea by Mrs. E.M daughter, Miss Peggy Farnsworth srookline OCTOBER Wedding of Miss Ruth Lohman, daughter of Mr id Mrs. John D. Lohman of Brooklyn, N to Charles G. Proffit, in Grace Church, New York Reception at Parl Lane Hotel, New York Dance by Mr. and Mrs. Rudolph Weld, of Boston, in honor of their débutante daughter Mi Sylvia Weld, at Dedham Country and Polo Club, Dedham, Ma Eastern Horse Club Meet Luncheon by Mrs. F. Roland Clot at Women’s Republican Club, Bosto Tea by Mrs. Lewis Prouty, of Brookline, Ma in honor of her débutante daug Jane G. Prouty at Myopi Country Club, Hamilton, Ma in honor of Miss Polly M. Beale and Miss Ann Barton hter, Mi Dinner dance by Mrs. Thomas B. Gannett, of Hyde Park, Ma in honor of Miss Romaine Sristow, débutante daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William B. Bristow, of New York Annual Dog Show under auspices of Lowell Kennel Club, Lowell, M:; Presentation of “* Here How annual musical revue by The Service Club, at Auditorium Theater, Chicag OCTOBER 24—Wedding of Mi Cornelia Duryea Livingston, daughter of Mr. and Mr Charles Lauriston Livingston, of Brookly N. Y., to A. Otis Grueser First Reformec hurch, Brookly: Reception at Brooklyn ) Height Casine Tea by Mrs. William M. Cutler, of Boston, in honor of her débutante daughter, Miss Ro mond Cutler OCTOBER Tea by Mrs. Rudolph Weld, of Bosto n honor of her débutante daughter Miss Sylvia Weld, in Brookline, M: J jon Show under pices of Worn Boar { St. Lub Hospital, at ne teve Hotel Chicago OCTOBER 26-——KEssex Fox} Hunt R Jeet, | J N. J J tinue throug October 209 Hiunt Kace Meet under pices of Blue Ridge Hunt Club, Annefield, Berryville, \ Luncheon by Mrs. Reginald L. Robbu Milton, Mz I r of her débutante hter Miss Laura ins, at Milton Country Club Te Mrs. Charles Moorfield Storey, of Jamaica Plain, Ma in honor of her niece, Mi Klizabeth Moller DD Mr d Mrs. Harr J er re { Bost 1 ye r 1! éhutant sughter i Elizabeth Livermore 4 Dog She er pic { Central Beagle Clul rg, P OCTOBLE Prout { Brookline, M r of her débutante daughter, M i Dar Mr. and nrad Perkins Hathaway eir débutante M 1 |W. Hathaw at Concord Country Clu 4 ] Horse Show, Cincinnati, Ohio. ‘To continu r 29 uxedo Park, N. ¥ f an Dyke, daughter of the Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Henry Van Dyke, of mn, ! y Pea body Brush, in chapel of Princeton University Dance by Mrs. Ho ard L. “Rog rs, of Chestnut Hill, Mass., in honor of Miss Dorothy Roger 1 Miss Cynthia Dolil yer, at Country Club, Brookline, Mas Te Mrs. W m H. Goodwin, of Boston, in honor of her débutante niece, Miss Isabelle OCTOBER 29—€astern Horse Club Meet at Norfolk Hunt Club, Medfield, Ma Tea by Mrs. Karl Adams, of - ton, in honor of her débutante daughter, Miss Katherine jam ookline, Mass Malcolm Donald and Mrs. R in honor M.H. Harper, both of Milton, Mass of their débutante daughters, Miss Barbara Donald and Miss ¢ stance Harper, at Country Club, Milton Wedding of Miss Mary Carter, to George Herbert Walker, Jr daughter of Mr. and Mrs. L. Ray Carter, of St. Louis, Mo in St. John’s Methodist Episcopal Church, St. Louis 211 X 85 X BROMLEY-SHEPARD Jersey Frocks They do not hug the figure. No wardrobe is complete without a BROMLEY-JERSEY 1or business, travel and general utility wear. Made to your measure- ments. Wool Jersey $2 5.00 Jersey {°° up to size 42 MIST GLOW , $3 2-50 size 42 (Large sizes $5.0C extra) BROMLEY-SHEPARD CO., INC 92 Paige Street, Lowell, Mass Send me Mist Glow Jersey, Wool Jersey (cross out the one you do not want) frock number color enclose my check for $ f 1 am not pleased | will return the frock for prompt refund of my money bust measure Signed Street City State Colors: Mist Clow Jersey, pastel shades of blue yellow, white, pink, tan, gray, green. Colors Wool Jersey, navy, black, rosewood, beaver, tan gray, old blue, powder blue Be sure to fill in al! blank spaces Samples and Catalogue on request Created and manufactured by the Bromley-Shepard Co., INC, Mass. For over twenty years creators and makers of individual clothes for women, Factory and Main Office: avwell, Mass. 488 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 489 Fifth Avenue, New York City Office 609 at Lowell,

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1? 12 HARPER’S BAZAR —, I-plann = ie EE ~SQ¢, N old shoe for luck, they say, but the minimum allowance for a modern honeymoon is five new pairs to complement the October bride’s trousseau. FE VERY pair of MUNROE Individual Carefully chosen from as versatile a col- shoes is registered before leaving the lection as Munroe Individual Registered factory oon oe i inate saahenatin: Tle number Shoes offer this season, each pair will do eae in the lining seals our pledge that they effective double duty with two quite indi- vidual costumes. conform in every particular with Munroe- process specifications: keels expertly hand- moulded and hand-fitted to the human heel, soles invisibly strengthened to preserve the To wear with either the black chiffon, or the little geranium crépe frock, the bride chooses KATRINA black velvet high- heeled ties with fish-net lace inserts at the sides. original graceful lines for the lifetime of the Smart DELORES Sabots of bottle green —_——~ shoes. Not one last for every foot, but kid with delicate gold tiie”? look as if | pt ‘ individual lasts to fit individual feet. Look they were especially designed for the green yt and gold lamé frock, but they are equally for the Registration Numbers. effective worn with her moss green wool dress and its narrow gold bel€t. “Munroe Registered Shoes for? Proper Body Balance” No shoe could look more at home with both the two-tone beige and brown zephyr wool ensemble, and the beige plaited crépe frock than NADINE asymmetric one-strap pump of warm honey kid with its swirl of THE MunrOE SHOE Company, INC. 139 Lincoln Street, Boston, Massachusetts goldstone lustre. Just made to go with either the figured vel- Factory at Auburn, Maine vet or the little floweret print 1s DUCH ESS high-cut patent leather pump with its collar of cut-steel beads Finally, her gray tweed suit, and the light and dark blue tricot each claims as its own SUNYA gun-metal patent oxfords with the side cut-out. Footwear individuality is, after all, a sim- ple matter — just locate the nearest agent for Munroe Individual Registered Shoes. Ps Moderately priced from $7 to $10 THIS MARK on the soles identifies shoes made by the Improved McKay process

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Semi-Collapsible Cabriolet The Lincoln plan to create a new and higher standard in the automobile industry has succeeded beyond the hopes of its sponsors, the Ford Motor Company It was expected that the public would appreciate what could be done when such vast resources were behind the work, but results have exceeded ex- pectations. The process of refinement goes steadily forward but it will never be expressed in terms of yearly or periodic models. Only changes of unquestioned value will ever prevail; only progress along sound and proven lines may be expected. LINCOLN MOTOR COMPANY Division of Ford Motor Company

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the precious and semi-precious stones Marmon is follow- color ing Nature’s own lead +- from the stripings on the ex- e e d b terior which tend optically to lower the car’s sweeping lines, to the last detail of interior appointment, emphasis a J ewels is laid on the achievement of tastefully beautiful effects -- » Or A, te: RY ee, Sie See ey a4 Marmon has again taken the SERIES 75 Custom-Built Sedan for Seven Passengers on Marmon initiative in the creation of char- precision-built chassis. A symphony in Turquoise and Ivory—its . . harmonies derived directly from the Mexican and Arabian Tur- acterful color schemes for the : iy ee ed . is * —_ f Cries J ) quoise and their matrix, with stripings after the Jacynth. Marmon 4 . : ° 2 motor car by turning for inspira- Motor Car Company. Prices, $3195 and upward, f. o. b. Indianapolis. tion to jewel stones and their matrices, where luminous brilliancy is combined with more subdued tonings to pro- “ “ duce perfect color symphonies -+- nature’s own effects, even when daring, are authentically beautiful; but she M does not dip her brush in the same pigments for the wing : ' . i 4 of a butterfly and a Painted Desert or a gem stone -+- she adapts color to material -+ in taking color notes from “1 THE SCHWEINLER PRESS, NEW YORK

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