Harper's Bazaar 1925-02: Vol 60

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Ha rpers FEBRUARY L929 Midseason

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Admiring eyes that fall upon MeCal- lum-clad ankles rest approvingly there, for smartness and beauly mark McCallum stockings wherever lhey gleam. And wear is there, loo, for McCallum Silk Hosiery ts as Samous for its wearing qualities as Sor its supremacy of slyle. If you would be smartly up-to-the- minule on lhe stocking mode, you should see the McCallum De Luxe book. It illustrates the very lateol MeCallum Silk Hosiery, the most authoritative styles in stockings. Send a card for one to McCallum Hostery Co., Northampton, Alass.

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TIFFANY & Co. JEWELERS (UALITY-ASSURED MAIL INQUIRIES RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION FIFTH AVENUE & 3/2 STREET New YORK

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2 STRENGTH 66 IN EV HARPER’S BAZAR ay StL RN STRAND Every beauty knows where admiring eyes will linger Trim, silken ankles have a fascination which the truly charming woman never neglects. However art- fully, however demurely, she is always aware of their compelling attraction. And if she is very wise, she knows that “Onyx Pointex” silk stockings, with their skilfully fashioned heel reinforcement, accen- tuate every graceful curve of a slender, dainty ankle. Silk, with Lisle Top Style 255, Medium weight Style 355, Raw ange the sheerest ‘weight of pure thread silk. $7195 “Onyx Pointex’’ stockings are made from the finest grade of pure Japan silk, especially selected for lustre and strength. They are dyed by the latest improved processes, in those subtle variations of tint and hue which achieve real distinction in style. Leading stores everywhere sell “Onyx” Hosiery, and especially the “Pointex” styles listed below. All Pure Thread Silk Style 350, Medium “gee Style 450, ‘ joerg i , so clear you can read print through it. $7 75 class matter May 4th, 1901, at the oa once, New Yo! + under the act of March 3rd, 1879. eee = sa =, wz Le tino om ht! Fas eee Hosiery New York ‘ec 2? . © 125 **Onyx’’Hosiery Inc. ee Manufacturers oe oot tet a en #1 cee te ent tea Harper's Bazar HARPE R'S BAZAR is published monthly at 119 W. 40th St., New York, by International v Nab February 1925 Magazine Company, Inc. Printed in U.S. A. Yearly Subscription ‘price, $4.00. Entered as second

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FEBRUARY 1925 MEMBERS OF NEW YORK SOCIETY WEARING The Spring Bramleys Registered in the United States Patent Office Pie Say: For Mademoiselle? (14 to 20 years) i ee ee Miss Janet Kirby, Miss Katherine G. Francis, Miss Olivia Sternerand Miss Helen Coburn graciously consented to pose for these pic- tures in the interest of the Jacob Rus Neighborhood Settlement. Design Patent Pending on these Bramley Coats and Suits in the U. S. Patent Office. Our rights will be fully enforced. Miss Helen Coburn wears the Bramley Coat (Model 19) of wool Kashmir, in nat- ural, platinum gray, French blue, rose-red, black, pastel rose or bronze-brown, with its deep border of King lynx fur (dyed Tibitine) and new quilted embroidery. 75.00 Miss Katherine G. Francis wears Bramley Topcoat with velvet collar (Jfodel 21) of Wales-loom homespun in beige, platinum gray, bronze-brown, navy blue, French blue, white or black; also in blue, tan or gray mannish coating. 50.00 Miss Janet Kirby wears this Boyish Bramley Suit (Model 23) which O’Rossen designed for us exclusively. It comes in navy blue or black wool twill, or in blue, gray or tan mannish suitings; also tweeds in blue or tan. 50.00 Miss Olivia Sterner wears the Bramley Ensemble Suit (Model 25) which is equally smart in Kashmir, in natural color, French blue or pastel-rose; or in charmeen in navy blue or rose-tan. 68.00 4 Coat ano Suir SHors For Mapemorsette—TZhird Floor Franklin Simon & Co. A Stores of Individual Shopw Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Streets, New York Entire Contents Copyrighted, 1925, by Franklin Simon & Co., Inc. a

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HARPER’S BAZAR

“Paris Dest & Co. Fifth Avenue at 35th Street—N.Y. CHARGE ACCOUNTS SOLICITED London THE NEW NADA FASHIONS Reg. App. for Spring 1925 Edition

ypifying the American girl in their youthful distinc- tion-and chic. Designed by and exclusive with “Best’s. THE NADA TOWN COAT 48.00 The slim tailored lines of this two-button model are the last word in chic. The velvet collar isnew. Patou crepe in chili red, aquamarine green, tiger eye, wig- wam brown, thrush gray, vene- zia blue, and carnelian. Covert piquetine piquette in tan or gray THE NADA FROCK 29.50—35.00 It has the new circular skirt and a smart polkadot tie. In blue, white sylphure, gray, tan and Monterey flannel, 29.50. Of Drurylaine cloth, in natural, blue, geranium red, green, tan, white or navy, 35.00. THE NADA COAT 65.00 Has new flare and smart leather trimming in contrasting shades. In serapheen—a new ribbed cloth— in gingersnap, chili red, ’ cicada green, tiger eye, bambino blue, sawdust, bubble gray and rougette. Sizes 14 to 20 yrs.

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FEBRUARY 1925 No matter how beautiful she may be, her beauty will be glorified when gowned in MALLINSON’S Silks and Fabrics de Luxe, typi- fying the last word in beauty, grace and exquisite coloring — the world’s highest achievement in Silks and Fabrics. Sold in all the better stores and identified by the name MALLINSON on the selvage. H. R. MALLINSON & COMPANY, Inc. Fifth Avenue at 31st Street, New York 220 South State Street, Chicago 711 Wells-Fargo Building, San Francisco Sole Representatives in United States and Canada of Rr iere PARIS ALLINSON' 1 Silks and Fabrics de Luxe

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MARYAM: (Right) The right and wrong—or rather, the two ‘‘right’’— sides of crepe satin are deftly employed in this frock for the youthful one. Ingenious rib- bon wheels—a favored diver- tissement of a noted Parisian creator—outline the flared front-tunic. In blag¢k, meadow green, and blonde, sizes 14 to 20 inclusive, $39.50. BERYL: Most welcome among Spring prophecies is the promise of the coat dress! Madame drops her maturity in the youthful lines of this first interpreta- tion. Luxurious faille faced satin fashions it, while broad revers swing to a fascinating buckle, and a flared tunic ta- pers to a point. Wrists and vest effect are of happily con- trasting silk. In black, navy, and cocoa, sizes 34 to 44 in- clusive, $39.50. Abraham & Straus Inc. Brooklyn, N. Y. L. S. Ayres & Company Indianapolis, Ind. L. Bamberger & Co. Newark, N. J. Bullock’s Los Angeles, Cal. © 1924 by R. R. A. HARBINGERS OF SPRING ARE LOVELY FROCKS NE need be no seeress to prophesy that Spring is on its way—every line of the new Barbara Lee models BARBARA LEE’S is a subtle assurance. One may be confident, too, that these modes will be equally smart long after the season has reached its height. HARPER’S BAZAR® DESIREE: (Above) This faille crepe frock for Mademoi- selle looks to its sleeves for added lau- rels. Bishop sleeves once they were named, and their demure coquetry is heightened by colorful crepe and gold beads—a motif repeated on the shirred apron. In black and geranium, black and copen, cocoa and rust, navy and copper, sizes 14 to 20 inclusive, $39.50. AEINA: The ensemble effect is alluringly expressed in this kashana and faille frock. A stencilled, cut-out tunic border permits glimpses of the faille silk beneath. Incidentally, its slim lines thoughtfully conceal the years. Only four of the exquisite collection are illustrated, but In ashes of roses, amber, and scarab green, sizes 34 to 44 inclusive, $39.50 all possess the inimitable Barbara Lee originality and workmanship, and the incredibly low price of $39.50. These and other Barbara Lee frocks for women and misses are shown exclusively in the shops The Dayton Company Minneapolis, Minn. The Emporium San Francisco, Cal. Wm. Filene’s Sons Company Boston, Mass, B. Forman Co, Rochester, N Y V2. Frederick & Nelson Seattle, Wash. Joseph Horne Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. The J. L. Hudson Co. Detroit, Mich. The F. & R. Lazarus & Co. Columbus, Ohio listed in this advertisement. The Rike-Kumler Co. Dayton, Ohio Strawbridge & Clothier Philadelphia, Pa The Wm. Taylor Son & Co. Cleveland, Ohio Weinstock, Lubin & Co. Sacramento, Cal. 4 4 4 | i i 4 :

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for FEBRUARY 1925 7 Woes / ~ ue WS” ye ~ 5 f, 5

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HARPER’S BAZA¥ FOR EVERY BED IN THE HOUSE FINE — for the guest room that is your pride STRONG — for the rough wear of the nursery HEIR mothers and grandmothers have handed down such a tradition of the fineness of Wamsutta Percale that some women find it hard to realize how wonderfully it wears. The firm weave, smooth unwrinkled texture and pure white finish give a loveliness to Wamsutta Percale sheets and pillow cases that almost belies their strength. Yet when Prof. Millard made his famous laundry test of 24 well-known brands of sheets, he proved that Wamsutta Percale at the end of 160 washings was stronger than any of the others. Beautiful and strong after the equivalent of six years’ home use, Wamsutta Percale was ready for even more years of service. Wamsutta Percale is ideal for The enlarged microscopic photographs below show how the finely woven texture of Wamsutta Percale is unharmed after the severe test of 160 launderings — while the texture of ordinary sheeting breaks down and separates. Wamsutta Percale after 160 launderings WAMSUTTA MILLS, New Bedford, Mass. Founded 1846 RIDLEY WATTS & CO., Selling Agents, 44 Leonard St., N.Y. continuous use on all your beds. With the new Wamsutta Tape Selvedge adding further to their durability, these exquisite sheets are replacing ex- pensive linen. They are lovelier than fine linen, yet cost considerably less; and not much more than or- dinary cotton. For the bride’s hope-chest, for every gift occasion Wamsutta Percale is most appropriate— especially when embroidered or monogrammed. At the best stores in all sizes — plain, hemstitched or scalloped. Do not judge values by price alone—look for the Wamsutta Per- cale green and gold label — your guarantee of the finest quality. Wher- ever you see Wamsutta Percale adver- tised be sure to lay in a season’s supply. You will save money by doing So. *d - = ae Ordinary Sheeting after 160 launderings WAMSUTTA PERCALE Sheets and Pillow Cases ~~ ©The Finest of Cottons WAMSUTTA MILLS ALSO MAKE WAMSUTTA NAINSOOK, LUSTERSHEER, LINGERIE, WAMSUTTA UNDERWEAR CLOTH, AND WAMSUTTA OXFORD this ae kgs esi a, ak ge ee

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for FEBRUARY 1925 THIS STRANGE o/d man who is supposed to have travelled thousands of miles daily while riding in this unsportsmanlike po- sition is one of the eight Taoist immortals. Thebamboo tube “at rods held by Dschang Guo are often found as designs on antique Chinese rugs at Macy’s. In the modern Chinese rugs, as on the cloth- ing of the inhabitants of this oldand highly artistic race, we are more apt to find variety of flowers used in design. Each flower carries itsown message and is used with a purpose. Método wie eta eas The golden yellow field is decorated with flow- es and birds in blue, while Chinese lettering mone corner adds to the interest. Border of ‘nventional flowers on a ground prevailingly tk with the bright blues and reds in con- trast. $74.50, =e—7“nnnnnhDnan— Large Chinese rug possessing the essential qualifica- tions of the best Ortentals; namely, fine colouring, pleas- ing design, and excellent quality. Long silky pile. Richly shimmering field of tawny hue, which, changing from sombrebrown to whitest gold under varying lights, is decorated in its four corners with birds, and flowers brilliantly blossoming in red and blue. Flowered borders and fringed ends. $548.00. The Fu Dog, a Ming bronze, and the marble topped teakwood stand are y tan the remarkable Far East Department, also on the sixth floor. $92.50 and $35.50 respectively. “The finest modern rug that has yet come out of China” THIS was the statement of a well- known authority and lecturer on Oriental Rugs when he saw the new Chinese rug which is twice illustra- ted here. The rug, of long spun wool that defies the sweeper’s efforts to gather the usual fuzz, is hand woven in Tien- tsin, and imported and sold exclu- sively in New York by R. H. Macy. With its vast organization, Macy’s has found it possible to send an ex- pert to Persia and India and to im- port Chinese rugs direct from China. In this instance the saving to you, RHA. Macy bor 344 ST & BROADWAY —e vor as compared with the rugs that have passed thru the hands of several sell- ers and buyers, is so great that it sometimes seems unbelievable to the shopper who does not know Macy’s cash buying and selling methods. Every reader of Harper’s Bazar is cor- dially invited to visit the remarkable collection of Persian, Chinese, and domestic rugs on Macy’s sixth floor. * * * Macy’s has no charge accounts, but more than 20,000 of its patrons have.found a more economical way to buy. They deposit money at Macy’s at 47% interest and pay for their purchases out of these deposits.

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“AMERICA'S FOREMOST FASHION CREATOR”

BROADWAY «t 74th STREET, NEW YORK 600 MICHIGAN BOULEVARD SOUTH, CHICAGO <MILGRIM MODES at the Foremost Store in €ach City Eure a da

on tt BAZAR®

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i a ER sia di) soa jor FEBRUARY 1925 11 senescccooooorrerere® PARIS FROCKS and PARIS ENSEMBLES Are Reproduced with Exquisite Care For Mademoiselle’s Southern Wardrobe Above left—Copy of Lenief Ensemblz A white sleeveless frock of ‘‘Kameline,”’ a kasha-like cloth, has a wide border of colored applique to match the red cloth Above right—Copy of Lanvin Ensemble. A black crepe coat 1s smartly lined with polka dot printed crepe to match the very smart frock of white with black, green or red dots. 150.00 coat. In gold and white also. 150.00 Left—Copy of Lanvin frock. Javanese crepe frock with the new belted silhou- ette. Thecollar and cuffs are hand-made of sheer organdy. In ashes of roses, French blue, beige, navy blue or black. 69.50 Right—Copy of Lanvin frock. Mongole crepe with handkerchief squares of color to form the top of the bodice and the 1n- sert in the pleated skirt. In white with red, French blue or black squares. 89.50 IN SIZES 14 to 20 YEARS MISSES‘ FROCKS—THIRD FLOOR MAIL ORDERS WILL BE FILLED BY PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE “O66)s +@p-- SAKS ~ FIFTH AVENUE FORTY-NINTH ‘#o FIFTIETH STREET NEW YORK TELEPHONE, PLAZA 4000 eee, *eeeees SOR e eee reer ereees sees seeeseseeeeeeeeseeeerarese SOCCRE Oe rem ae ene eeeeeeses ese een seeeesseanseneeeres

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ORE and more, Palm Beach and Fifth Avenue are looking to Paris for inspiration in sports costume, instead of to London as in the past. The grands couturiers have discovered a new race and lissomeness in sports clothes. This trend, obviously, makes a proper foundation—correct, yet permitting free- dom of action—more essential than ever. N the ball-room, the mode of the moment requires the low-cut back and high front. The DeBevoise Girdle (for smart, slender lines about hips and waist) and the Smartway Bandeau—both il- lustrated above—form an ideal com- bination not only for evening wear, but for informal and sports costume as well. MUON LLANE) “VERY cable from Paris, every 4 advance fashion announce- ment from the Spring openings, makes it evident that the chic of the well-gowned women will depend more and more on the correct fash- ion foundation. The straight, simple lines still prevail, with flat back and slightly more fitted effect in blouses. The only permissible variation from the straight silhouette is the flare below the knees, initiated by Chéruit. Some of the newest models from Lanvin carry simplicity as far as it is possi- ble to go, and all along the Rue de la Paix there is a tendency toward the untrimmed or very simply trimmed costume. HARPER’S BAZA ‘reedom in the mode, yes, PARIS counsels~ "but absolute correctness in the silhouette” Whichever way one turns, the ab- solute necessity this Spring fora slim, smartly modeled figure presents it- self—a necessity which has already been forecast and prepared for by DeBevoise. The oldest and largest manufac- turer of Brassieres, DeBevoise is also the creator of the newest and smart- est—and at moderate prices. But not of Brassieres alone, forthe DeBevoise “Silhouette of Youth” is sometimes best obtained with Corsette,* Ban- deau, Bandette, or Girdle. And if the figure needs slenderizing as well as molding, DeBevoise Reducing Garments of genuine Secretex* offer the surest and quickest way to smart, slender lines. *Registered Trade Marks CHAS. R. DEBEVOISE COMPANY, Newark, NEW JERSEY New York Chicago Boston San Francisco LONDON: 60 Wilson Street, Finsbury Sq., E.C.2 BRASSIERES ~ CORSETTES GIRDLES and REDUCING GARMENTS + Latina, |

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for FEBRUARY 1925 The inverted pleat directly in front, the youthful style (two piece in front and straight in back) the high collar and trim cuffs; these mark the newest Cavalier frock —exclusive with Lord & Taylor —done of infinitely smart simplicity. Flannel, in azure blue, silver spray, monterey, Piping Rock, green, sulp uur, white with colored pipings or all white. $29.50 The Cavalier hat is of felt in colors to match the frock. $ 1 4.50 Lord & Taylor FIFTH AVENUE : NEW YORK THE NEWEST *CAVALIER FROCK EXPLAINS ITS SMARTNESS IN TERMS OF SIMPLICITY *Registered U. S. Patent Office

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to show you on this page: ATLANTA, GA AUGUSTA, GA BINGHAMTON. N. Y BIRMINGHAM, ALA BOSTON, MASS BRIDGEPORT, CONN BROOKLYN, N. Y CASPER, WYO CHADRON, NEB CHARLESTON, 5. ¢ CHESTER, S. C CHICAGO, ILL CINCINNATI, OHIO CLEARFIELD, PA CLEVELAND, OHIO FORT WORTH, TEXAS FRESNO, CAL o GERING, NEBR GREENVILLE, ILL HANOVER, PA HARTFORD, CONN HILLSBORO, ORE HONESDALE, PA HOUSTON, TEXAS INDIANAPOLIS, IND. INDIANOLA, IOWA LANSING, MICH LEWISTOWN, PA LINCOLN, NEBR LOUISVILLE, KY LOWELL, MASS. MADISONVILLE, KY MANCHESTER, N. H MEMPHIS, TENN MINNEAPOLIS, MINN MUSKOGEE, OKLA NEWARK, N. J NEW ORLEANS, LA NEW YORK, N. ¥ NORMAN, OKLA NORWICH, CONN OKLAHOMA CITY, OKLA OKMULGEE, OKLA PAINESVILLE, OHIO PASSAIC, N. J PAWNEE, OKLA PINE BLUPP, ARK PITTSBURGH, PA PLAINFIELD, N. J

PUNXSUTAWNEY, PA RICHMOND, VA ST. PETERSBURG, FLA. | SACRAMENTO, CAL SAN FRANCISCO, CAL SAVANNAH, GA SCOTTS BLUFF, N&BR SIDNEY, NEBR SPRINGFIELD. OHIO ST. LOUIS, MO TAMPA, FLA TAUNTON, MASS THOMASVILLE, GA . TOCCOA, GA TOLEDO, OHIO VACO. TEXAS WASHINGTON, D. € WESTFIELD, NJ The FOOT ARISTOCRATIC GRAND RAPIDS, MICH. - - - LOS ANGELES, CAL The PROVIDENCE, R.! Callender, } ST. LOUIS, MO Brandt's O) These and other Queen Quality retailers are ready 0 (O) the Queen Quality models illustrated M. Rich & Bros. Co. J. B White & Company Morse & Herrick, Inc Hirsch Millinery Co Queen Quality Boot Shop The Howland Dry Goods Co Lester's Shoe Shop Lindsay & Co. O. 5. Renfro Co. + Kerrison’s Rodman @ Brown Queen Quality Boot Shops Joseph Pietzuch Co. Lestzinger Bros. Pocock: Wolfram A. Harris & Co., Inc

Foley Bros. Dry Rink's Cloak House, ! Richmond's Shoe Store Page & Harryman, Inc Wm. Johnson Herpolsheimer's Broadway Department Store Rucker's Department Store The Geo. W. Kies ¢ Kerr Dry Goods Co., 1 The Paramount Shoe ‘ A. J. Bernhard? J. Abbott & Son d . Marx Bros Wm. Rosenzwe Hoskin’s Fine Footwear he Goldstein:Migel Company Queen ( Boot Shop Iberg Bro Streicher & Co. Hannigan’s Shoe Store + + P. Wiest's Sons

Dicalily) presents at Fashion’s Court new models in Vici kid MONG the smartest of the new offerings in footwear are these beau- tiful Queen Quality shoes for women and young women, at once a brilliant showing of the new style lines and a convincing ex- pression of the vogue for Vici kid. , Thomas G. Plant Com- pany, well-known makers of Queen Quality Shoes, including the Queen Quality Repose Arch, use the soft, rich Vici kid to emphasize the artistry of line and pattern and to assure the perfect fit and satisfying wearing qualities that characterize (Queen Quality footwear. The Vici kid trade mark is stamped inside the new Queen Quality models as assurance that the upper leather is the one and only Vici kid. ROBERT H. FOERDERER, Inc. PHILADELPHIA Selling Agents: LUCIUS BEEBE & SONS, Boston Selling agencies in all parts of the world ICI kid REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. HARPER’S

RADIANT (2 strap)

FROLIC

ADIANT (3 strap) ““REPOSe ARCH’’ OXFORD Vici KID MADE ONLY BY ROBT H.FOERDERER INC. PHILADELPHIA

Look for the Vici trade mark inside the Queen Quality shoes shown on this page. It identifies the upper leather as the one and onlyVici kid. THERE IS ONLY ONE VICI KID---THERE NEVER HAS BEEN ANY OTHER BAZAR

ARIES i a adi wae “ck sania DN o< ceclaals

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XIE FORD ‘al so ictal Ns Heese AQUIFERS Hie a wd epee >= ¥ oe a aoe for FEBRUARY 1925 4 "Snu JA. LUXURIOUS garment of lustrous C satin—fitting foundation for fashion’s slim silhouette—is scientifically designed to mold the figure gently into right lines. eband It is a garment equally blessed by the athleticallv inclined and by those who like their ease—for it affords absolute freedom of movement and perfect comfort in any posture, because there is no con- stricting elastic nor any boning. . co eee SS a NEW YORK Bonwit Teller’s Franklin Simon's Jay Thorpe’s Lord & Taylor’s Wanamaker’s The Snuggleband is easily adjusted—it “wraps” across the back, buttoning in the middle and on either side—six buttons in all, no hooks or eyes, and it launders as easily as your lingerie. In pink and white, price $12. The Bromley Panty-brassiere sketched on the left is a combination brassiere and step-in of heavy glove silk, which buttons on to the Snuggleband and is especially designed to wear with it—as foundation for the straight silhouette. BROMLEY-SHEPARD Company, Inc., 37 Paige Street, Lowell, Mass. You may secure the Snuggleband at the following stores—if your favorite shop cannot supply you, write us direct. BOSTON LOS ANGELES PROVIDENCE. Jordan Marsh's Bullock’s Gladding’s ne tw Robinson's on Paameece nt & Kent’s PHILADELPHIA ity of Paris CHICAGO , ST. LOUIS Marshall Field’s See Sieetery Stix, Baer & Fuller CINCINNATI PITTSBURGH ST. PAUL Lawton’s Joseph Horne’s Golden Rule

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a) HARPER’S BAZAR A COAT by GOLFLEX Pech — the newest tint in Fashion's Spring vocabulary — is the. color of the Kit Fox which. cuffs and orders this smart Coat. Fashioned by Colflexc of sofiest Kashmir, it boasts a fur collar that may be carried. over.the arm, or tied —choker- E wise—to: frame a tovely_face. The Golflex abel is your Fe ee a | quide to daytime clothes of enduring quality. Specialty Stores [Wilkin & Adler, Inc, SOO Seventh Avenue, NY. C. ENTIRE CONTENTS COPYRIGHTED. 1925. BY WILKIN & ADLER. INC.

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LL LONE OG T I IPLLIE LS PLOW PEI tk ae a oh ad PP FARA hy ae f + # v, oes “a i 4d Rhee mana eas a CT ore a 4. ~ pe - From the painting by Jean Dupas, Grand Prix de Rome 1910. This painting was selected by the Jury as the official poster for Le Salon des Arts Decoratifs — Paris, 1924. HE snowy blanket of Winter melts. Birds, flowers and fruit CHENEY herald the coming of Spring. Wonderful silks, colorful as the Si A Arabian Nights themselves, will mark the new season. A new S modern feeling influences textile design. Marvelous new creations YES anticipate the demands of fashion artists and’ set the mode in fabrics for the new season. Printed silks, reflecting this modern inspiration, new in conception and color, mark a still further advance in Cheney style leadership. CHENEY BROTHERS @ FOURTH AVENUE AT EIGHTEENTH STREET & NEW YORK TS

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O; COURSE, convenience isn’t everything. Convenience is not the only reason for buying an Oshkosh Wardrobe Trunk. But when you THE OSHKOSH TRUNK COMPANY, Oshkosh, Wisconsin, have one, you will appreciate the convenience of being able to take out the first thing you packed with- out disturbing the last. An attractive booklet describing Oshkosh Trunks will be sent you on request to 466 High Street, Oshkosh, Wisconsin and New York City

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TVET S emma 4 WHEN ONE PLEASURE MARS ANOTHER EDDA paused, in her wistful admiration of the gay skiing party, to question Amy. “Dear, how can you resist joining them? If I could ski as you can, nothing would keep me on the sidelines! Not staying here to keep me company, are you?”’ “No, child, but my feet burn from dancing all night.”’ Hedda’s lips parted as though to speak, then, thinking better of it, she resumed her interest in the colorfully clad young athletes. “Why the hesitation, Hedda? Counting ten like a good child before you speak ?”’ “No-o, but I don’t like to criticise something I noticed last evening.’’ “What—my dance steps?’” Amy was nettled A graceful model accentuating one’s arch and supporting it, In the wanted colors and leathers

eden ode a oe Shoes for Women «<Not at all—your dancing pumps. Those slippers you wore were lovely, but I noticed they slipped every time you danced, and they had no support at all in the arch.”’ «But,’’ protested Amy, ‘‘dancing pumps must be attractive. One can’t wear arch supports or old ladies’ shoes with an evening dress!”’ «‘One doesn’t need to.’? Hedda was emphatic. ‘‘Everyone admires those silver brocade Ped-e-modes I wore, and they allow me all the ease of a walk- ing shoe.”’ «Why, your pumps were stunning—awfully expensive??? Amy asked interestedly. ««No—not a bit more than any first-class shoe, and they never lose their shape!’’ Effective two-strap rect heel for smart

Ped-e-modes are shown exclusively in the shops listed below: Re Sedemode Shop

The fedemode Shop 1708 Eucitip AvENUE, CLEVELAND, O, Gedemode Inc. 570 FirtH AvENuE, New YorRK

76 E. Mapison St., CH1caco L Bamberger &¥ Co. Ernst Kern Co. City of Paris Dry Goods Co. _L. Livingston -Caspari && Virmond Co. Joseph Horne Co. Seymour Sycle Newark, N. I. Detroit, Mich. San Francisco, Cal, New York Milwaukee, Wis. Pittsburgh, Pa. Richmond, Va. Kerr Dry Goods Co. Thomas Kilpatrick Co. Knight Shoe Co. Lauber’ s F. E. Ballou Co. Phelps Shoe Store Oklahoma City, Okia. Omaha, Ned. Portland, Ore. Toledo, Ohio Providence, R. I. Shreveport, La. Robert I. Cohen, Inc. D. B. Loveman Co. . Davenport Hotel Sport Shop Friedman-Spring Dry Goods Co. Smith-Kasson Co. Galveston, Texas Chattanooga, Tenn. Spokane, Wash. Grand Rapids, Mich. Cincinnati, O. 3 Write for style book—no charge WLIUS GROSSMAN, ING.,

BROOKLYN, N «3a

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HARPER’S BAZAR

7) as » % "J 4 Nok Sa ian CLONE _—— Ih #3 Z, EN. TOSS —= Ys BN 2S TES ~ y Ek =e <a {SS Cf) IAMOND Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets have genuine celluloid tops which retain their original finish indefinitely and actually outwear the shoe. They promote easy lacing and preserve the smooth style lines of the upper. The genuine can be easily identified by the two tiny raised diamonds on their celluloid surface. Always insist on Goodyear Welt oxfords with Diamond Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets. UNITED FAST COLOR EYELET COMPANY, BOSTON Manufacturers of DIAMOND BRAND (VISIBLE) FAST COLOR EYELETS ONLY THE GENUINE HAVE THE DIAMOND TRADE <@® MARK

WANNANNA SR BEA ARABS RR RADERR RAS Ran eee kan mena eee nena eee

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for FEBRUARY 1925 Ce = FZ {inna eet canara Siok way eee saree COOE— oil iperueewmcrnimrcea Reel? SW SLE SI ZZ STANDARD OF THE WORLD an ae (SF CANON OWN ZORGS vt N this new Cadillac Coach (priced the same as open cars) literally =3 thousands of buyers will recognize the opportunity they have been awaiting and anticipating. Here is a wonderfully balanced, five passenger Coach with Body by Fisher, finished in Cadillac-Duco in a new and attractive color, upholstered in taupe mo- hair plush, and fitted with dome light, window curtains, and foot rest—a beau- tiful, roomy, comfortable car. Mounted on the standard V-63 Cadillac chassis, it assures to its owners standards of quiet, vibrationless performance, dependability and long economical service which they know are exclusively Cadillac. At its appealing price this Coach, in ad- dition to the Custom-Built and Standard V-63 lines, establishes more clearly than ever Cadillac’s ability to combine highest quality with highest value in eight-cylinder manufacture. CADILLAC MOTOR CAR COMPANY, DETROIT, MICHIGAN, Division of General Motors Corporation }CADILLAC: COACRH

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HARPER’S BAZ& No. 2067—A _ street of crepe satin, embroidered in silk ors— Rust and Tan, and Cocoa, Blonde Onion, and Sizes 16 to beautifully Blonde Black frock Col- Black | ana Y-| \ | and | : v No. 2069 (right) flat Crepe and Crepe Roma made in the mode son. Colors Tan, and 16 to 44. so popular this sea- Black, Nary, Cocoa A frock of Ensemble Sizes Albany, N. Y. Athens, Ga Atlanta, Ga. Augusta, Ga. | Austin, Tex. Battle Creek, Mich. Baton Rouge, La. Birmingham, Ala. Binghamton, N. Y. Bluefield, W. Va. Bristol, Tenn Brooklyn, N. Y. Buffalo, N. Y. Butte, Mont tharleston, W. Va. charlotte, N. C. *hattanooga, Tenn. Shieago, Il thillicothe, Ohio sincinnati, Ohio ‘eveland, Ohio “y T. vw. solorado Springs, jolumbia, 8. C. ‘olumbus, Miss. solumbus, Ohio Joneord, N. C. council Bluffs, lowa ~ARAAA Dallas, Tex. Danbury, Conn. Danville, Ky. Dayton, Ohio Denton, Tex. De Land, Fla. Denver, Colo. Des Moines, lowa Detroit, Mich. Dixon, Ill Dubuque, lowa El Dorado, Ark. PRESENTED AT Waldman Bros. Michael Bros. Keely Company J. Goldberg & Sons S. M. Scarsbrough & Sons L. W. Robinson Co. S. I. Reymond Burger Phillips Co. Sisson Bros. & Wel- den Co. Hawley Merchandise The H. P. King Co. FrederickLoeser&Co. Adam Meldrum & Anderson Co. Hennessey's Coyle & Richardson G. B. Cabaniss & Co. Miller Bros. Co. At your favorite shop Story & Brandle H. & S. Pogue Wm. Taylor Sons & Co. Wilbur Cl. & Suit Co. Jos. L. Tapp Co. W. C. Beard, Inc. Bradford Husch Co. Julius Fisher & Co. John Beno Co. Titche Goettinger McLean Bros. A. B. Robertson & Bro. Adler & Childs W. B. McClurkan & Co. Drekas Dept. Store The Neusteter Co. Harris Emery Co. Frank & Seder A. I Geisenheimer J. F. Stampfer Co. Earl Massey Co. in New York THESE STORES Elmira, N. Y. Erwin, Tenn. Evergreen, Ala. Fargo, N. Dak. Fayetteville, N. C. Fitzgerald, Ga Flint, Mich Florence, Ala Fort Collins, Colo. Fort Worth, Tex Fulton, Mo Geneva, N. Y. Glendale, Cal Grand Rapids, Mich Greensboro, N. C. Greensburg, Pa Greenville, 5. C. Greenwood, Miss. Griffin, Ga. Harrisburg, Ill Hibbing, Minn. Honolulu, Hawaii Hornell, N. Y. Hot Springs, Ark. Houston, Tex. Huntsville, Ala. Ithaca, N. Y. Jackson, Miss. Jacksonville, Fla Jeanette, Pa Johnstown, Pa. Jonesboro, Ark. Kansas City, Mo. Keokuk, lowa Knoxville, Tenn. La Grange, Ga Lancaster, Pa. La Salle, It Lawrence, Mass FRANKLIN SIMONE CO. S. F. Iszard Co. Ewald & Co. Inc. I. Long & Sons A. L. Moody Fleishman Bros. Co. McCarthy's The Rosenthal Co. Douglass Shoe & Clothing Co. Edmonds D. G. Co. Gans Co. Tompkins Christian Alexander Co. Hickey-Kane Co. Hatz Friedman Spring D. G. Co. Cabaniss Inc. A. E. Troutman Co. CabanissGardnerCo. F. Goodman D. G. Strickland Crouch “O. Seten-Woods Co. Itasca Bazaar Co. Curtis Spec. Shop Adam Davidson & Co. Albert Mendel & Co. Foley Bros. D. G. Co. S. S. Thompson Rothschild Bros. Downing Locke Co. Cohen Bros. Ratner’s Schwartz Bros. J. Grossman Berkson Bros. Sullivan & Auwerda Anderson Dulin & /arne Callaway's Dept. Store Donnelly’s Chas. B. Blakely Chas. Weiner & Son | Favored Fashionable W omen in Smart Circles | Jul? veesses | | | Portland, No tons broidery. Onion, Navy, and Cocoa. Sizes 16 to 44. 2068 (right)—An after- noon frock of Crepe Molly-O smartly finished with but- touch of em- Colors—Black, and a Little Rock, Ark. Lincoln, Neb. Logan, W. Va Los Angeles, Cal. Louisville, Ky. Lynchburg. Va. Lyons, N. Y. Matone, N. Y. Marion, Va Mason City, lowa MeCook, Nebr. McKeesport, Pa. Memphis, Tenn. Milwaukee, Wisc. Minneapolis, Minn. Monroe, La. Montgomery, Ala. Mount Vernon, Ohio Nashville, Tenn. New Brunswick, New Castle, Pa. New Kensington, Now Orleans, La. New York, N. Y. Oakland, Cal. Oak Park, Ill. Ocala, Fla Oklahoma City Orlando, Fla. Pasadena, Cal. Peoria, Ill. Philadelphia, Pa. Pittsburgh, Pa. Port Arthur, Tex. Port Huron, Mich. Pontiac, Mich. Maine PRESENTED Marx Ready to Wear Magees Logan Mercantile Co. The May Co. Besten & Langen Cc. M. Guggenheimer Hartman Style Shop K. E. Caldwell Collins Bros. Maniley Bros. Co. H. C. Clapp J. D. O’ Neil Co. J. Summerfield Reel’s E. E. Atkinson Co. Bella J. Scherck Morris-Byars Co. The J. S. Ringwalt 40. Castner Knott P. J. Young D. G. Co. Brown & Hamilton Silverman's L. Feibleman & Co. Inc. Franklin Simon & 0. Taft & Pennoyer Co. Warrington Style Shop Rheinauer Co. Kerr D. G. Co. Dickson I ves Co. Tooker Jordan Co. P. A. Bergner Strawbridge & iothier Frank & Seder A. Bluestein Rosenthal Winkel- 0. Robertson's Ready- To-Wear ener The Woman's Shop AT THESE STORES Portland, Ore. Poughkeepsie, mM. ¥. Richmond, Va. Riverside, Cal. Rochester, Minn. Rochester, N. Y. Rockford, Il. Rutland, Vt. Salisbury, Md. San Francisco, Cal. Sanford, Fla. Savannah, Ga, Scranton, Pa. Seattle, Wash. Sioux City, Iowa South Bend, Ind. Springfield, Mass. Sterling, Ill. St. Louis, Mo. St. Paul, Minn. Suiater, 8. C. Syracuse, N. Y. Tampa, Fla. Toledo, Ohio Trenton, N. J. Troy, N. Y. Tulsa, Okla. Vicksburg, Miss. Watertown, 8. Dak. Washington, D. C. Westerly, R. L. Wilkes-Barre, Pa, Wilmington, Del. Winston-Salem, N. C. Wooster, N. Y. Yonkers, N. Y. York, Pa. Youngstown, Ohio Zanesville, Ohio Meir & Frank Co. Lucky Platt & Co. Kaufman Store Inc. G. Rouse & Co. Cc. F. Massey Co. E. W. Edwards & Sons H. L. Wortham Co. Grace L. McConn & R. E. Powell & Co. O’Connor Moffatt & Co. The Yowell Co. Leopold Adler Scranton D. G. Co. MacDougal South- wick Co. Davidson Bros. The Ellsworth Store The Woman's Shop Wye Deaver D. G. T. W. Garland Husch Bros. Schwartz Bros. S. Burdick & Sons Maas Bros. Hugo Stein Cloak Co. Penrose Parlors Scherer's Vandever D. G. Co. The Style Shop Paulis D. G. Co. Woodward & Lothrop The P. H. Opie Co. Fowler Dick & Walker Schwartz Bros. Co. Anchor Stores Co. The Wm. Annat Co. J. Williamson S. Grumbacker & Son G.M.McKelvey & Co. H. H. Sturtevant Co. FREDERICK LOESER CO. in Brooklyn PRINCESS PAT DRESSMAKERS, 501 Seventh Avenue, New York - ¢ | t S a F

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ah RE jor FEBRUARY 1925 = GRAINGER PLAYS “WEDDING DAY AT TROLDHAUGEN"™ > STEINWAY THE INSTRUMENT OF THE IMMORTALS From that long roll of great pianists who have chosen the Steinway for use and ownership, there comes year after year a flood of admiration for its astonishing durability. Paderewski, Rach- maninoff, Hofmann, Grainger, Levitzki— these and other pian- ists insist that, next to its murac- ulous singing tone, the durability of the Steinway is its most im- Pressive characteristic. And 1t is this durability, built into every Steinway during the five years and eleven months required for Pteparation and construction, that transforms its purchase into the soundest of investments. The Steinway is made in nu- merous styles and sizes to fit your There is a Steinway dealer in your com- munity or near you through whom you may purchase a new Steinway piano with a small cash deposit, and the balance will be ex- tended over a period of two years. * Used pianos accepted in partial exchange. Prices: $875 and up Plus transportation Steinway & Sons, Steinway HA.i 109 East Fourteenth Street, New York home. It has always been sold at the lowest possible price as a matter of principle, and will fit your income. And it pays dividends on your investment year after year, decade after decade —in in- creased appreciation of the great music that finds new life and new meaning through the matchless Steinway tone, and in its definite gift of permanence For the Steinway will be an everlasting joy, not only to you, but to your children and your children’s chil- dren. You need never buy an- other piano.

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22 | NEW YORK TH a) ce ie ae eT a a a a, a, ee i i THE MOST BROOKLYN NEWARK No connection with any other establishments in the world | 43-45 West 34th STREET Noew York New, different, Paris-designed FROCKS that are worth Mail orders will be promptly filled. Each frock may be had in the following colors: black, navy, tan, French blue, cranberry red and sea green. 4047—A frock in crepe satin or crepe de chine that emphasizes the Paris vogue for smart simplicity, with flattering slender lines, reversed panels, ind tiny buttons, Sizes 14 to 44. $1475 4043—French artistry has slenderizea with button-trim- med side panels this chic frock of crepe satin, and com- pleted its smartness with a lovely jabot of Venice lace. Sizes 14 to 46. $] 850 4046—An alluringly youthful model in crepe satin or crepe de chine, with the godet flare and the bib of gold thread embroidery that are typical of the newest im- ports. Sizes 14 to 40. $2950 4045—Never has slenderness been more charmingly em- phasized than in this new model of crepe satin or crepe de chine, with its hem-length jabot of pleated Georgette edged with French Valenciennes lace. Sizes 14 to 42. $] 850 4042—Paris creates a new model with the superb charm of youth in this crepe satin frock bound and appliqued with a contrasting color and smartly girdled with a wide belt of pierced suede. Sizes 14 to 42. $2()00 4044—A crepe satin frock, French to the tiniest detail, from the godets in its slender skirt and tunic to the Jenny neckline with its imported collar of embroidered French voile edged with Valenciennes lace. Sizes 14 to 38. $2500 EXPENSIVE FRENCH MODELS, REPRODUCED IN OWN WORKROOMS AT A FRACTION OF THE COST OF THE ORIGINALS. OUR just twice the price that is quoted. You are buying copies of the newest imports at wholesale prices because each frock is made in our own workrooms and sold directly to you. Money order must accompany each order. If purchase is unsatisfactory money will be promptly refunded. WORTH—45 WEST 34th ST,, NEW YORK CITY—DEPT, 22 HARPER’S BAZAR HARTFORD

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jor FEBRUARY 1925 “MIGEL SILKS” “The selvage will tell If made by Migel” ARGOSY CORD oS = OP ed no) ee © Po A lovely lustrous weave after the mode of ribbed silks, the one new and original corded fabric. OW avom (or-vettetMueltiatiulau me) a@aWencule:- Mir hver-(elejalcce. ARGOSY CORD for their Spring creations. The smartest shop in your city can show you dresses, coats and suits of this original fabric. AMnlgs neat i ¢ Ala For Spring CORD-O-NETTE + PIERRETTE A LAINE + THORO-BRED

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24 HARPER’S BAZAR cA Letter to a ‘Uery (harming Lady— the Woman Who 1s ‘Reading this Harper's Bazar February 2nd, 1925 Dear Madame: Next month brings the first of the really important spring fashion numbers of Harper's Bazar--the Early Spring Fashions Number. Before March, it is true that there are whispers of the coming mode, rumors light as air that drift through the avenues of fashion. But with March, whispers become statements and rumors crystallize into facts. And so in the March Harper's Bazar, and continuing through the April and May numbers, will appear in dazzling array the costumes that fashion has absolutely pronounced smartest for spring and summer. With these important issues of Harper's Bazar at hand, we believe the time is absolutely right to suggest once more that you subscribe to Harper's Bazar. And do you know that through the special offer we are making, you may secure Harper's Bazar for half the single-copy price? Actually! This offer is: Two years for $6.00 In this way you receive really $12.00 worth of Harper's Bazar for $6.00. It is a worth while saving, isn't it? And all you have to do to take advantage of it, is to use the coupon below, Sincerely yours, Harper's Bazar. Harper's Bazar 119 West 40th Street IE LOIS PN Re EOE TTR AMEN HE MTN TN EEE New York I am going to take advantage of your special offer of two years of Harper’s Bazar for I a a Sa A oe sicianaivel -- $6.00. Enclosed find check—or money order. (Canada, $8.00; Foreign, $10.00) I. 6 satis u Ween gtneeasanildidiae sain ENE la bviciakitinicnceidwatmauaabaesnane If you prefer you may charge the subscrip- H B-2-25 tion and pay when bill is sent later. oe ceneeee SES a os Smet a ciate aa Lip AC feennaty uae Sia nae 8 ig pa Pas Dewi = La a ANNE

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for FEBRUARY 1925 2) siete) Me. r Se Wise Y » ox =i —. * Maia nn ATL OS > ee ~~ LA = te yw a. 7674 The) Ne. ewest +t Darbrook k Silks and the Latest Vogue Royal Pattern Designs DARBROOK SILKS, 478 FOURTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, N.Y. ei | ‘Sj | kS

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26 HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL and TRAVEL SERVICE | One Standard of Service On all ships of this line— the Lloyd standard—none higher. Homelikesurround- ings; courteous and atten- tive steward service; world- famous cuisine. Regular Sailings from New York to by the S.S.COLUMBUS (Largest and fastest German ship) S. S. STUTTGART, and S. S. MUENCHEN ealling at Ply- mouth, Cherbourg and Bremen, and to Bremen direct by superb One-class cabin ships. Summer Cruises to “The Land of the Midnight Sun” Independent Round-the World Tours For Sailings, Rates, etc., apply a Broadway, New York CHICAGO BALTIMORE PHILADELPHIA WINNIPEG BO NEW ORLEANS SAN FRANCISCO GALVESTON cerman LLOYD MEDITI de Luxe Liners to the CONTE 7 SRDS CONT E- R oOossO SPECIAL WINTER VOYAGES TO Madeira - Gibraltar - Algiers - Naples -Genoa January 24th - February 7th - March 7th For other sailings and information apply to LLOYD SABAUDO, 3 State Street, NEW YORK EUROPE BY MOTOR Inclusive rates for trips or cars for hire any period. Itineraries planned by travel experts or arranged to order for England and the Continent. Write for Booklet A with maps FRANCO-BELGIQUE TOUR CO. Ltd. (American Company) 157 West 42nd St., New York London Paris Brussels Naples HOTEL ST. JAMES One of the delightful things about a trip to California is the trip itself and the magnificent scenery one views on the way. YOU MAY RUN AWAY FROM WINTER... OR REVEL IN IT OU may travel West and your climate as you choose a ever West tothe goldenlands —_ gown to suit your own taste and of Southern California or— individuality. Forty-five minutes from New In these travel pages of Har- York you may ski and skate and __per’s Bazar you will find many defy winter by welcoming it for alluring suggestions; there is in its rugged, health-giving sports. them the glamor of faraway places and foreign scenes; there is, on the other hand, the invita- tion of nearby resorts and all the sports of winter. You may travel North to And, if you are in doubt, about Quebec where winter is made rates, about hotel or railroad mio & season of carnival and accommodations, or anything of FE CING- the sort, we can be of service to That is the magic of modern you. For any kind of travel travel: it enables you to choose information we urge you to You may seek the lands of perpetual summer—Florida, the West Indies or— WRITE ¢'tiarrer’s BAZAR E Address your inquiries personally to Adeline Snapp, ©/o Harper’s Bazar, 119 West goth Street, New York City 109-113 West oem St., New York City —l ——e —— Midway b Fift and Broadway An hotel of quiet cuca, having the atmos- pare and appointments of a well-conditioned Much favored by women traveling without escort. 3 minutes’ walk to 40 theatres and all best ee Rates and booklet on application. W. JOHNSON QUINN | GRAND SUMMER CRUISE JULY 1 | NORWAY - Western MEDITERRANEAN Specially chartered new “Lancastria.” 53 days, | $550 up, including hotels, guides, drives, fees. | Fascinating itinerary: stop-overs. MAY-JUNE EUROPEAN TOURS 1926 World Cruise, Jan. 20; Mediterranean, Jan. 30 Longest experienced cruise management F. C. CLARK Times Building, N. Y. EUROPEAN VACATION TOUR A delightful summer combining recre- ation, agreeable social experiences and educational opportunities, may be en- joyed by a limited number of girls, with chaperone familiar with European travel. rite Mrs. KATHERINE B. ROBERTS, East Orange, N. J. P. O. Box 167 ‘ROP | Pibaninn Gestal Y | Hotel ATTRACTIVE TOURS—$540 and up Como (Italy) 36 Days and Longer , Italy, Spain, Switzerland, France, Belgium, Holland, England, Germany, Mediterranean and Continental Countries Best Situation Frequent Sailings, Most Complete Itineraries On The Lake Official Agents All Steamship Lines One of the oldest Travel Organizations in the world. 50 years First Class Accommodations of satisfactory experience with the traveling public and per- manent offices in Europe assure our clients many advantages. —__—_—— Our Tours have no equal—the personal attention we give each Tour guarantees the best of service throughout. Send for ‘“‘Book D’’ for Details and Rates. Hotel Accommodations Anywhere FRANK TOURIST COMPANY The Travel Service will be glad to make 542 Fifth Avenue, New York reservations for you at any hotel. b> to At Bank of America, Los Angeles 582 Market St., San Francisco name desirable hotels in any city an (Estab. 1875) 219S .15thSt., Philadelphia § Paris—Cairo—London their rates. dc PEAL Sitio NS a ak.

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[SNR ST RF TT Ne SH Ne ee TRG RC ST FE TNE + mi ts LL — tee Si SN See ST RS SS NS \ The Winter Season at Briarcliff Lodge ]FOR those who seek fascinating sur- roundings the appeal of Briarcliff Lodge is delightful. In a beautiful 300 acre estate, only 50 minutes from Fifth Avenue, and favored with the exhilarat- ing air of 600 ft. elevation—the Lodge nestles in a retreat for the most exhilarat- ing of winter sports. In this picturesque setting every winter pastime is enjoyed by the guests of Briarcliff Lodge. Skating on our 31% acre rink, swimming in the indoor pool, snow- shoeing, skiing, coasting and tobogganing amidst magnificent pines and balsams— invite hours of unexcelled pleasure. Briarcliff Lodge is more than an hotel— it is a magnificent home. The social atmosphere, exclusiveness of the sur- roundings, the excellence of the table, the charm and sheer enjoyment which you find at Briarcliff Lodge will make you feel the delight of living deluxe. BRIARCLIFF LODGE Chauncey Depew Steele, Proprietor Briarcliff Manor, Westchester County, N. Y. (Scarborough Station) Telephone Briarcliff 140 DO SSR SETS HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL and TRAVEL SERVICE winter Crus. The Right Ships at the Right Time to Go If you are considering a winter vacation, study this cruise program and make direct comparisons with other announcements. More than fifty years’ experience in trans- atlantic steamship operation guarantees your comfort aboard our ships and your pleasure in carefully arranged shore visits. Egypt and the Mediterranean 46 Days White Star Liner Adriatic from New York February 26. Red Star Liner Lapland from New York March 8. Back in New York 46 days later. Madeira, Gibraltar, (Algeciras), Algiers, Monaco, Naples, Athens,Constantinople, Haifa (for Holy Land), Alexandria (for Cairo and the Nile country). Naples and Monaco on return voyage. Optional stop- overs in Palestine and Egypt. West Indies 31 Days More than 25 years’ specialized experi- ence in West Indies cruises. White Star Liner Megantie (specially constructed for cruises in the tropics). From New York Feb. 25, returning March 28. Havana, Santiago, Haiti, Kingston, Pan- ama Canal, Cartagena, Curacao, La Gu- aira, Port of Spain, Barbados, Fort de France, St. Thomas, San Juan, Nassau. Cruise may be joined from Florida at Havana and left at Nassau for a longer vacation. For complete information apply Cruise Dept., No. 1 Broadway, New York, our offices elsewhere, or any authorized steamship agent. | WHITE STAR LINE RED STAR LINE The world’s most beautiful resort ~ THE AMBASSADOR im “New York's Smart- est Hotel” THE AMBASSADOR Atlantic City hotel. Open all the time The Ambassador A name which means hotel perfection The Ambassador, The Ambassador, THE ALEXANDRIA Los Angeles A famous hotel FO in a great city The Ambassador Hotels System The Alexandria, Los Angeles The Ambassador, Los Angeles New York Atlantic City THE AMBASSADOR Los Angeles Show place of the Pacific Coast—a miniature me- tropolis, crowning its own 27 acre park, and typifying that hospital- .ity which has made magic of the very name California. 6) 4 . 4 4 4 ¢ q 4 : ‘

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HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL and TRAVEL SERVICE AT NEW ORLEANS | | erste your trip to California to include a stopover at alluring New Orleans during Mardi Gras week, fro M E M O RI ES THAT WI LL February 19 to February 24, 1925. A whole city tall into one gigantic, joyous playground! A whirlwind week LA ST FO R Y FA R S of revelry, gorgeous spectacles and brilliant pageants in a Ty ails siaeilt ats Dalla a dep on pout halidey veritable storm of streamers and confetti! Stopovers at last year? Probably that and a great deal more. New Orleans allowed on all tickets via the And what did you do that was unique or thrilling? What did you find to carry away? . . . Sunburn. | Why not go to France this year and have an entire S | N S E T R O | T E change, a mental stimulus, a new outlook, and memories forever! You can book passage for one hundred and forty C A L I K O R N I A dollars on the big, one-cabin liners, French as France t O itself. You can even make a round trip for one hun- dred and sixty-two dollars, tourist class, with indi- New Orleans Houston San Antonio El Paso vidual cabins, as is done by the college boys and girls. When you get there—Paris, the capital of the world’s gayety, the races, the new modes, the shops = aglitter, the restaurants where you dine in a marvel- é ous way, Montmartre, the museums if you yearn for them—the Latin Quarter if you don’t! There is a life-time of education for every member of the family in a few weeks’ trip. Tucson San Diego Los Angeles San Francisco You can tour and live well on six dollars a day— bring your own car, uncrated, or rent one reasonably. The French Alps, the Pyrenees, are like nothing you've ever seen . . . villages perched on the eaves of the world, and wild and gorgeous mountain passes. Think of the Riviera, with low “r prices. . |? il Gini “Cake ak tos deme Coes, The NEW SUNSET LIMITED : Marscilles, where the boats come in from golden Club Car.ObservationCar.Latest dressing service. Oil-burning loco- ) Africa! . . . Walk egy France at the French Line type Sleeping and Dining Cars. motives and rock-ballasted road- , gangplank in New York . . . at Havre, the port of Unsurpassed cuisine. Barber Shop, bed. No smoke, no cinders, no ; | Paris, just another gangplank . . . then the boat Shower Baths, Ladies’ Lounge, dust. Open windows whenever ; 3 train—and in three hours you're in Paris. Valet, Maid, Manicure and Hair- desired! e Through sleeper to Apache Trail in Arizona and to San Diego via the marvelous Carriso Gorge in California. NUE | For further information and literature, address 5 Compagnie Générale Tanscllantique 19 State Steet ew Ye S OU I H ERN P ACIF IC i New York Houston New Orleans At uly 165 Broadway Southern Pacific Bldg. Pan-American Bank Bldg. AY ot ad 0s : Los Angeles San Francisco LINES Offices ond Agencies m Prinejpal Ctfes Pacific Electric Bldg. Southern Pacific Bldg. = wh NST EY of Surope ond the United Sores

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HMARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL and TRAVEL SERVICE —————— aommetd for pure, unadultere YOUr way. everywhere you turn and Railroad ticket agents in any city have i jeu cay of your entire stay whether detailed saheneiians about "California, Ki - 8 ston 4 C _ I on f C arta 8 =e ? E 1S lor two weeks or twenty. of great interest to you. Ask them to Curacao La Guayra Port of Spain d- Golf, ma, horse-back riding, hiking, tell you all about it, or mail coupon ’ ’ ? : camping, fishi ced 7 S. in . n0 "gr on Barbados, Martinique, St. Thomas, eta their history, des- All-Year Club of | ets mountains oe | San Juan, Nassau, Bermuda : ains, Orange, Southern | J bd ’ “i i : California i To EGYPT and the MEDITERRANEAN S. S. MAURETANIA, Feb. 17, 1925 CUNARD ad ANCHOR. Lies Aut-Year Cius or Sournern CALIroRNIA, Derr. 182, 2601 S. Ficueroa Street, Los Ancetes, CALIFORNIA. I am planning to visit Southern California this sum- mer. Please send me your free booklet “Southern California All the Year.” Also booklets telling especially of the attractions and opportunities in the counties which I have checked. COLos Angeles City and County San Bernardino County DOrange County Santa Barbara County DRiverside County OVentura County

Ce Ren an ai Sat aint Serica hen pah Ss @ 10 Sw SN | NEW YORK re Beg Ne 25 Broadway or Branches and Agencies

ee

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ES RE Ee at ge 30 FOUR LETTERS OF MORE THAN ORDINARY INTEREST to Parents and Pupils First: From a New York State Senator: “T am glad to say that we have placed our daughter in the School, following your suggestion of its high character. I think your judgment was correct. We greatly like the principal. She has the old-time ring of efficiency and culture. The faculty seems to be well selected. It is a home school, far less mechanical than others and perhaps doing better work on that account.” Second: From an Executive in a Georgia Corporation: “T have decided to send my son to ——— Academy. I thank you very much for having referred this school to me, as it was through your suggestion that I made this decision.” Third: From a Far Western Subscriber: “| wrote to you several years ago with regard to a school for myself in the East, and with your assistance I chose School in Washington, D. C., and I was very much pleased with the school. Now we are looking for a school in Florida suitable for my fifteen-year-old sister—one in which she can get a college preparatory course combined with supervised athletics and music. Your previous assistance was very valuable and I feel quite confident that you can help me again.” Fourth: From a Jacksonville, Florida, Banker: ““T apologize for the delay in replying to your letter. from the city it has been delayed until now. which was suggested by you. son in — most sincerely for your courtesy.’ > On account of absence We finally decided to enroll our I certainly want to thank you Four letters from four widely varying sections of the country— and they are simply indicative of the many letters we receive every month. Each one indicates a degree of satis- faction which is very gratifying to our efforts. We publish them here, however, Harper’s Bazar Scuoot DEPARTMENT, simply to convince you again that, if you are looking for a school, we may be of great service to you. There is no charge for this service, and as a reader of Harper’s Bazar, we want you to take advantage of it. Write to me personally and in as complete detail as you may desire. Nennilh 2. Chaustro, Director 119 West 4oth Street, New York > SN Oe ee

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vs eal ig SCHOOLS : Ee os Te = Foreign New York—Girls New York—Girls New Jersey—Girls Lausanne (Switzerland) Preparation for American College and Uni- versity. Examinations. Business Course. Languages, Summer Course. Best equipped school in the country. Organized Athletics. | LycEE JACCARD so¥s| Marius Jaccard CHATEAU RIANT GENEVA Avenue d’Aire catttce for pao THOROUGH PREPARATION FOR fans qi Staff, individual cieation: ‘ee sports, ICE EXAMINATIONS. Modern Lan- nds. Junior ‘Dept. Apply Capr. Fox | First class finishing school for girls. Specially constructed house, beautifully situated. Every modern comfort. American course. Languages. Principals, MADEMOISELLE MION, Miss DANIELS. Champel, Geneva, Switzerland. | Chaperonage Homes \ Acharming home for your daughter ‘ while studying in New York 321 West 80th Street at : Riverside Drive Tel. Endicott 0045 TEASDALE RESIDENCE | For Girl Students and Young Women 326 West 80th St. Riverside Drive, N. Y. C. Endicott 7858 Chaperonage Mrs. Boswell’s Residence 34-446 W. 84t St. at Riverside Drive, New York A delightful home for girls attending any school, college or studio. Elective chaperonage. Ninth Year. Catalogue. Open all y Interview by appointment. Tel. Endicott 76: French Booklet FRENCH HOME SCHOOL pm my exclusively for girls pursuing special in New York. Exceptional opportuni- tie io 4 MISS MACINTYRE or MLLE. TALGUEN 32) W. 107th St., New York City Riverside Drive New York—Co-ed. STONEHENGE Brewster New York oueme school in the beautiful hills of Putnam limited only 50 miles from New York. Here a te et humber of younger children are given ucational advantages of a governess in eal home environment. pein of children, with a knowledge of die- ties and nursing, insure happy growing days. teti STARKEY SEMINARY | C Noxtducational. Endowed. pS Ad Regents Standards. On — Advanced work in Art and Music. | eca Lake. Athletics. Address MARTYN SUMMERBELL, PH.D., Box 32, Lakemont, N. Y. Ages 12 and upward. | Prepares for college | Pres. Boarding School for GIRLS from 6 to 14 NOBLE | SCHOOL WHITE PLAINS, NEW YORK Kathleen Noble Jerome, Manager The SCOVILLE SCHOOL 1006 Fifth Ave., N. ¥. C. Opp. Art Museum & Central Park Boarding and Day School for Girls Complete academic, college prepar- atory and advanced studies MRS. MERRILL’S aksmere School for Girls On bomnpitel suburban estate over- looking L. 1. Sound near N. Y. City. A yea MRS. MERRILL ORIENTA POINT, MAMARONECK, N. Y. 7 FINCH SCH®°L A Boarding and Day Schooi for Girls, emphasizing post-graduate work 61 East 77th Street, New York City Day and THE SCUDDER SCHOOL 283%..ang 7 buildings, West 72d St., near Riverside Drive. Practical courses: (1) High School—preparatory and general; (2) Secretarial; (3) Household Arts; (4) Social Welfare and Community Service; (5) Music—all branches. 15 instructors. Summer School. Miss H. B. Scudder, 244 W. 72nd St., THE COMMONWEALTH SCHOOL Of Home Making and Community Subjects. Applications accepted now for Spring term, Feb. 9— May 20. a Box B, 136 E. New York City. N. Y. City 55th St., The SEMPLE SCHOOL for GIRLS pio »osite Central Park. Boarding and Day Pupils. bllege Preparatory. Post Graduate. Finishing pina Languages, Art, Music and Dramatic Art. peg Life. Outdoor Recreation. Darrington Semple, Principal 2a1-242 Sa Park West, Box B, New York City GARDNER SCHOOL 11 East 5ist Street, New York City A thorough school with delightful home life. College preparatory, academic, secretarial, elective courses. Music. Outdoor sports. 68th year THE BROWNSON SCHOOL Catholic Boarding and Day School for Girls. College Preparatory and _ Finishing Courses. French the language of the house. Mrs. Atwood Violett 22-24 East 91st Street. New York Cathedral School of Saint Mary Garden City, Long Island, New York Box “B"” MIRIAM A. BYTEL, Principal BRIARCLIFF BRIARCLIFF MANOR ~~~ NEW YO MARYMOUNT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS COLLEGE FOR WOMEN Chartered by the Regents of the University of the State of New York. Paris Branch. Write for Catalogue to The Reverend Mother. Tarrytown-on-Hudson Ossining School For Girls ing-on- d 56th year. College ene, henieaie, Art, Music and Economic Courses. Separate school for younger girls. Illustrated year book on request. CLARA C. FULLER, Principal, New York Box 1B, Ossining, N. Y. Che Castle * Miss Mason's School “}t~- for Girls ” 942, Tarrytown-on-Hudson. New York 2: KNOX ft College Pre pretory Cultural and Vocational Courses. faried Outdoor Life Illustrated Booklets and Catalog. MRS RUSSELL HOUGHTON, Box B, Cooperstown, N. DREW SEMINARY The Carmel. Gehook for Girls on beautiful Lake Gleneida. classes. General and_ special courses. parate building for Junior School.) Athletics. ear. For catalog. address 58 Dr. C LARENC E MCCLELLAND, President, Box 602 Carmel, N. Y. New York—Boys Che Raymond Riordon School Highland, New Yor College preparatory, also Business Course. Work and play carefully directed for the advance- ment of the individual boy. Catalog. Address Nirs. B. H. Sengstaken, Registrar 536 Decatur Street, Brooklyn, N. Y. AWLIN SCHOOL FOR BOYS Dr. Frederick L. Gamage, Headmaster Pawling New York WOODLAND SCHOOL Boys 8 to 18. In Catskills, 1500 ft. elevation. Ideal for developing strong, manly boys, preparing for college or life. Skiing, snow-shoeing. skating. Athletics, Modern buildings. 315 acres Erwin S. Spink, A.B., Headmaster, Phoenicia,N.Y. sneer ns School -ON-HUDSON, N.Y ae Boys for College and Business. Small Military training. Athletics. Separate school ‘for boys under 13 WILLIAM ADDISON RANNEY, A.M.., Prin. NEw YORK, Tarrytown-on-Hudson. 25 miles from New York, Irving Schoo! for Boys j; in the beautiful, historic * tae hes country. 88th year. 33 years under present Headmaster. Extensive grounds. Modern and complete equipment. Prepares for,all colleges and technical schools. ea Bh field. Swimming Pool, Gymansum. i . M. FuRMAN, L. H. D Headmaster, Box ¢ MANLIUS Saint John’s School Graduates College Preparatory, Military now attending 48 colleges. Business course. Riding School. Junior school for boys 10 to 14. 36 years under present Management. Address GEN. WM. Box 122. VERBECK, Pres. Manlius, N. Y. 'DONGAN HALL A Country School, overlooking New York Harbor College Preparation. General Course, Art, Music. Fields for variety of sports. pee EMMA BARBER TURNBACH, A.B., Principal Box H, Dongan Hills, Staten Island, N. Y. Happy Hours Kindergarten : — from 3 to 6 years of age. Afternoon 8 to ae under special supervision for children ‘ooklet on request. Mrs. M. C. Whyte, 345 West 86th Street, New York City. : HIGHLAND MANOR Tarrytown-on-Hudson, N. Y. Non-sectarian coun- try boarding school for girls. All grades and courses, including Junior College and Music EUGENE H. LEHMAN, Director, Box P. the STORM_KING Schoot Formerly The STONE SCHOOL Established 1867 A Progressive College Preparatory School Attractive Outdoor Life. 50 Miles from New York Catalog and Book of Views on Request ALVAN E. DUERR, Cornwall-on-Hudson, N. Y. DE LA SALLE SCHOOL Boys, 10 to 16 Seven Miles from Utica Catholic Boarding Schoo! for Boys Conductea by Brothers ot the Christian Schvols. Sn to 8th grade inclusive. Terms, audress Brother Robert, Box 64, Oriskany, New York From KENT PLACE SCHOOL for GIRLS SUMMIT, NEW JERSEY. An Endowed School. Thirtieth Year. On the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the Hills of New Jersey, twenty miles from New York. College Preparatory. Academic. Music, Art, Athletics. HARRIET LARNED Hunt, Principal. DWIGH College Preparation. SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Special Finishing Courses. » Gy » Tennis, Riding Write for Illustrated Booklets. Catalog on request. Miss E. S. CREIGHTON, Prin., Englewood, N. J. Miss Beard’s School A Country School near New York Orange, New Jersey PRINCETON SCHOOL COLLEGE PREP. NERAL. GMS 12 TO 21 me 2 YR GRAD MISS LAURA M_GILDNER AM. PRINCIPAL -- PRINCETON. N. J ST. MARY’S HALL For girls. Academic and social training definitely preparing for college, home- making or business. MRS. JOHN FEARNLEY, Principal, Box 418, Burlington, N. J. good school for Girls.’ entenary Full. fnformation on re- uest. ollegiate Pres. nr stitute R._ J. TREVORROW Box Hackettstown, N. J. New Jersey—Boys FREEHOLD ix: SCHOOL for boys 7 to 15. Modified military training—in- culeates obedience, orderliness, self-reliance. The school with the personal touch. Catalog. Address MAJOR CHAS. M. DUNCAN, Box 12, Freehold, N. J. MILITARY BORDENTOWN MaaTARY. Thorough preparation for college or business. Efficient faculty, small classes, individual atten- tion. Boys taught how to study. Supervised ath- letics. 40th year. Catalogue, Cc ‘OL. T. D. LANDON, Principal and Commandant, Drawer C-30. BORDENTOWN-ON-THE-DELAWARE, N. J. BLAI Founded 1848. Imposing buildings, fully equipped. Thorough instruction. Lower School for younger boys. Endowed. Write for catalog. JOHN C. SHARPE, LL.D., Headmaster, Box7, Blairstown, N.J. aan wh 60-acre es for all PEDDIE #22 the best colleges. Moderate rates. Forms include t two Grammar and four High School Grades. 59th year. ROGER W.SWETLAND, Headmaster , Box 1-S, Hightstown, N.J. Se PRINCETON TUTORING SCHOOL Thorough and successful college preparation. Catalog, Illustrated Booklets, on «.equest JOHN G, Hun, “ Edgehill,’ Princeton, New Jersey. A COLLEGE PREPARATORY SCHOOL FOR BOYS For the all around edu- cation of manly boys. Pennsylvania—Co-ed. TEMPLE UNIVERSITY College of L chook Arts and Sciences. spacers College. School of Commerce. essional Schools—Theolog Law, Medicine, Dentistry, Pharmacy, Chiropody, School of Music. Training School for Ramm = > University high school. Sum- mer Session—July 6 to August 14, 1925. Send for bulletin. “Address Philadelphia, Pa.

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32 North, East, South, West. The Best Schools Are in Harper’s Bazar

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Pennsylvania—Girls

Pennsylvania Boys

New England—Girls

An Unusual School

If you are looking for the unusual school, you are more apt to find it in Harper’s Bazar than in any other Our tatives these schools and we know them to be worthy of your consider- That is why we publish magazine. represen- have personally visited ation.

BISHOPTHORPE, For Girls In Mts. near New York. Graduates enter all certificate colleges without exams. Practical courses; Finishing; H. S. & Jr. College. New Gymn and 1 CATALOG. Claude N. Wyant, in. Box 246. Bethlehem, Pa.

SEVEN GABLES A School That is a Home Also For Younger Girls 6-12 yrs. Ideally situated in country surroundings with all a city’s convenience. Cosy rooms, splendid care and companionship. Wide range of instruction including music and art Out-door activities. baa and swimming-pool. For catalog dress Mr. & Mrs. H. M. CRIST, Principals. Bo 1510, Swarthmore, Pa.

Miss Sayward’s School For Girls. Suburb of Philadelphia. Preparatory and Secretarial Courses. Domestic Science. Physical training, sports, horseback riding, swimming character, mind and body Write Miss JANET SAYWARD, Principal, College Music, outdoor Develops Dept. B. Overbrook, Pa.

BEECHWOOD Jenkintown, Pa. Suburb of School for practical training of Junior College Departments, Economics, Kindergarten ete. Pipe organ, gymnasium Philadelphia. women. Home Gymnastics, Address as above.

FRANK NSE MARSHALL A_ Thousand Boys Prepared for College in 25 Years. Complete Modern Equipment. All Moderate Rates. Catalog on request. E. M. HARTMAN, Ph.D., Principal. Box 408, Lancaster, Pa. Sports.

LONG INSTITUTE , hours from New Boys taught to CARSON 87th year. In the mountains, / York and 6 hours from Pittsbargh. learn, how to labor, how to live. College prepara- tory. Separate Junior School. Military = Character Building Supreme. Terms $400. Camp and Summer Session. June 8 to September 12 $165, Box 15, New Bloomfield, Pa.

bd ayne (Main Lineof P, R. R.) St. Luke’ S Scho Pa. T ‘he beautiful location, ex- tensive grounds, patronage, experienced instruction moral influence, make an unusual appeal to parents and boys. College or business preparation. Junior school for younger boys. Booklet CHARLES HENRY STROUT, A.M. Jesse E. PHILIPS, A.M., Asso. , Headmaster. Headmaster.

NAZARETH. BALL to-date Administration. usiness Courses. Junior Moder ate Rates. T'HAELER, D.D Nazareth, Pa. A Historie School with u College Preparatory and School. Gymnasium and Fool. illustrated Booklet. Rev. A. Headmaster. oy 50.

KISKIMINETAS SCHOOL FOR BOYS yupere s for college or technical schools. Health- Lk Expert faculty. Preceptorial system es y how to study, to recognize his own abilities. All outdoor sports. Gymnasium. Swim- ming pool. » V. WILSON, Jr., President, Box 870, Saltsburg, ‘Pennsylvania.

rand

SWARTHMORE PREPARATORY SCHOOL A community of ambitious boys under a dormi- tory influence that makes for manhood. Send for - log S 3 eT OMLINSON, M.A. F. H. SOMERVILLE, B.S Box 34, Swarthmore, Pa.

New England—Girls

The Birmingham School for Girls Birmingham, Pa. Thorough college pre paration and courses for girls not going to college. Gym- nasium, swimming pool. Catalog. Address Secre- tary. Box 135, Birmingham, Pa.

HALL 100 OVER of Pennsylvania Gymnasium and Pool. Courses, ome Eco- Secretarial, Post Grad- Junior School iitustrated Catalog. W. STENGEL, D.I Lititz, Leone © 0., Pa. [INDEN. | Attractive Home Life. Preparatory, nomics, Art, Music, uate. Se ome 3 Box 122

Thorough college preperation or snoctel study. Music, Art, Athletics, riding. Tareum, B. L. M. Willis, B. P., Mawr, Pa. New Building, large Mrs. E. H. Head of School, Mrs. L. Principal, Box B, Bryn HARCUM SCHOOL FOR GIRLS |

OGONTZ SCHOOL, {ounged, 1350 for gis occupy in, an estate on the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Illustrated booklet describing new building mailed on request. Rydal, jut Department. iS ABBY SUTHERLAND, Principal me... 2 Rydal, Montgomery County

HIGHLAND HALL Founded 1867 PREPARES GIRLS FOR ALL COLLEGES Modern Educational Standards, Unusual Equipment Spacious Buildings. Abundant Outdoor Life. Miss Ellen C. Keates, Principal, Holidaysburg, Pa.

DARLINGTON _ feugded 1431 For Young Women Develops personality, vitality, efficiency. Sixty- acre estate. Personnel Engineering, Secretarial, Domestic Science, Physical Education. Cultural Arts and College Pre paratory courses. All sports Gymnasium, swimming pool. Catalog

CHRISTINE F’, Bye, Prin., Box 622, We: st ‘Chester, Pa

PENNSYLVANIA, Chambersburg PENN H AI - HOOL FOR GIRLS. Col. lege Preparatory. Modern e and Special Courses. Certificate privi- leges. Booms with private bath. May cach year spent at Ocean City. Work continues without in-

terruption. New gymnasium and swimming pool. Rates $900. Catalogue and views Address FRANK 8S. MAGILL, A.M., Prin., Box H. MOUNT IDA SCHOOL FOR GIRLS ce, finishing school. Exceptional oppor- tunities, with a delightful home life. Send for Year 2520 Summit Street Newton, Mass.

THE BURNHAM SCHOOL FOR GIRLS | Founded by Mary A. Burnham in 1877 Opposite Smith C Li 4 n 7 a $

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| bags © = ionh SE

33 Write Harper’s Bazar Any Time for Information About Any School Anywhere

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New England—Boys:

Southern—Girls

Western—Boys

WILLISTON Na SCHOOL FOR BOYS wont ater Salen on

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New England—Co-ed.

Holmewood is from 6 to 16. In the hill country fo «pe New York. Beautiful grounds 40 $70 a month covers every expense. ui L. & TEBBETTS, New Canaan, Connecticut. FAST GREENWICH ACADEMY Founded 1802. 7 buildings. 13 Contac College preparatory, oem Busi- oem Music. Junior School. mnasium and jetie field. Christian ideals. ‘Tuition $500. ANCIS COOPER, D.D. Principal ay J FRANC Bay, East Greenwich, R. I.

ST. ELIZABETH OF-THE-ROSES A Mother School . Open all year. Children 3 to 12. One 4-4 New ¥ ork. Usual studies. Outdoor sports. ‘mms oon ve 4 ‘Noroton, Conn

Washing ton—Girls

1 NK {ARqHAY. yp i i rts a it OAKCREST WASHINGTON, D.¢

MARET FRENCH SCHOOL & Day Shed. Primary, Sntermnedione, College Preparatory. French the lan- a the school. Write for catalogue to Miss laret. Kalorama Road at Connecticut Avenue, Washington, D. C.

FAIRMONT School for Girls Educational advantages For catalogue, address ph ina 2111 S$ Street, Washington, D.C.

WARD-=! = sao FOR GIRLS AND YOUNG W/OMEN WARD-BELMONT combines high- est academic training and advan- es of extensive grounds and equipment with that much-sought- ' for Southern culture and refinement. -BELMONT offers a six- rri meets ithe individual needs of ag pa Early application for ea necessary. Address ARD.BELMONT Belmont I ny Box 12, Nashville. Tenn,

VIRGINIA COLLEGE for Girls and Young Women BoxB, ROANOKE, VA. In Valley of Virginia. Elective Preparatory. Junior College. Music, Art, Expression. Home pene Secretarial, Librar. Journalism. HARRIS, Pres. Mrs. GERTRUDE HARRIS BOATWRIGHT, V. P.

Southern—Boys STAUNTON “ckoan” One of the most distinguished schools in America propering for Universities, Government Academies, usiness. Gymnasium, swimming pool, all athletics. Complete plant. rng $650. Cou. THos RUSSELL, B.S., Pres. Box B (able & Station), "Staunton, Va. THE VALLEY RANCH SCHOOL Valley, Wyoming via Cody Intensive instruction to meet college entrance requirements on 8000-acre ranch. Out-door life with horse for each boy. Limited. Catalog Ad- dress Eastern Office, 70 E. 45th St., New York.

B MILITARY ACADEMY College Preparatory and Business Administrative Courses. Best Home Influences. Modern Fire- proof Equipment. All Sports. For booklet ** How the Boy Lives," address Col. E. S. Ligon, Pres., Box M., Blackstone, Va.

TENNESSEE MILITARY INSTITUTE You owe it to society, yourself, and your bo: om choose with utmost care the school which will help mould him. This school becomes a positive force in the life of every boy who enters it. Our catates will help you to choose wisely. Write. Box 82, Sweetwater, Tenn.

Stuart Hall, Staunton, Virginia Episcopal school for girls—Eighty-first Session. Rich in traditions of the past; alive to the needs of the present. Thorough college pre —-. Out- door sports. Address Mrs. LLs, A.B., Box

FAIRFAX HALL for Girls In the Blue Ridge Mountains. College preparatory, Riding, Golf. year graduate work. Music, Art, Home Economics. Expression, Secretarial. 35 acres. Modern building. Main Line, 2 railroads, $525. Catalog. JOHN NOBLE MAXWELL, President x H, Basic, Va.

BRENAU COLLEGE CONSERVATORY Noted for: select patronage 30 states; pleasant social life; location foothills Blue Ridge Mts. North of Atlanta; Standard A.B. course; special van- tages in music, oratory, art, domestic science, physical culture. 31 buildings. Outdoor sports; swimming, boating, horseback riding, ete. Cata- log and illustrated book. Address BRENAU, Box H, Gainesville, Ga.

MARYLAND COLLEGE For Women, ten miles from Baltimore. Four- year courses leading to all degrees. Two-year course leading to certificate. Personal supervision of strong faculty. Modern fireproof buildings. Athletics. Swimming _ Est. 1853. Catalog. x 1-B, Lutherville, Md.

‘Miss Harris’ Florida School Under northern management, northern faculty. Tourist pupils use home text-books. Outdoor classes, ocean bathing throughout winter. Board- ing and day school departments. October to June. 1057 Brickell Avenue Miama, Florida

KING-SMITH STUDIO-SCHOOL For young women. Music, languages, dancing, ; any art, academic or college subject be lected. Tuition according to amount of = oo. AUGUST KING-SMITH, Directors 751 New Hampshire Ave. Washington, D. C.

4 ? The Misses Stone’s School Prepares American Girls for Citizenship and for Travel. American History, Literature, Art, emment. Special Courses in M tanauages, Secretarial Work, Interior Decorating. Rhode Island Ave., N. W., Washington, D.

SUBURBS OF WASHINGTON, D.C. James E. Ament, Ph.D., LL.D., President Tw A National Boarding School for and Voeational wow Junior College with special Thirty-two a? Re yilege Preparatory. nety-acre campus. Send for descriptive catalog. Address > R, Box 170 Forest Glen, Maryland Girls,

GUNSTON HALL ida A A want Fi girls. Bai. Ta02. Preps D. C. ipreenton Domestic Science, iRs. Ravenene R. Mason, Principal.

MONIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS location in National Ca pital. High dene, “lege Serene paratory. Collegiate, Domestic ic Iss CHARLOTTE CRITTENDEN EVERETT, Eighteenth St., N.W. . Washington, D. C. ST. HILDA’S HALL charies Town. W.Va. The Chevron School for Girls, Episcopal. In the Shenandoah Valley. College preparatory. Elec- tive Courses. Music and Art. thletics. classes. Individual instruction. $600. MARIAH PENDLETON DUVAL, Principal.

Southern—Boys College Preperetery and General Courses. Fall and spring the mountains of — Carolina. Winter in Florida. Write for bookle CLARENCE E. SNYDER, 935 Fine arts Building Chicago, Illinois

Fishburne Military School ph aly for Aa’ A/a and Lhaeieee life. Personal on CoL. MORGAN ; al q . HUDGINS, Princ., Box H, Waynesboro, Va.

Massie School A preparatory apeet for boys. For catalog, address R. K. Massie, , M.A., Headmaster, Versailles, Kentucky.

One of a he lending eet for On usquehanna R ver + A Baltimore and Philsdeiphis. ings prep- se te department for boys age. eavy endowment rmits low tuition fee. Catalog. Murray eabody Brush, Ph.D., Port Deposit, Md. Western—Girls ELMHURST lege Preparatory School for Girls. the the direction of Eastern Teachers with European training. Horseback riding. All Sports out of rs. Miss ISABEL CREISLER, MISS CAROLINE SUMNER CONNERSVILLE, Indiana.

IR ALA School for Girls College Preparatory. General Course. Music. Art. Roof playground. Swim- ming pool. Horseback riding. Fire- proof. Write for catalog to Miss FREDONIA ALLEN Indianapolis

St Mary-of-the-Woods California—Girls The prc tia School For Girls. ng ngatueetiote, College Pre- 16 miles from

General,

California—Boys

E- MILITARY ACADEMY BIG SCHOOL FOR LITTLE BOYS ae 4 _ —— _ Tw For youngste Sympathetic, Watentul Intel- ligent Guidance Home Care and Training. Capable, Motherly House-Ma- trons. Women Teachers in Elemen- tary Grades Open Air Sleeping Pore ee! Li ng in Sunny — ‘al eo ey Training for the Little No boys over 14 admitted. No High School pupils. Send in sppeeations early. Beautiful ee a and View Book. Send f ROBT. A. <CmRS, p ae Route 7, Box 948, Los Angeles, Cal.

SAN DIEGO ARMY AND NAVY ACADEMY Prepares for Colleges, West Point and Annapo!l University of California -~ scholastic rating Christian influences. Land and Water sports all . Summer Sessions, July 1-Sept. 1. Catalogue. Address Capt. Thos. A. Box H, Pacific Beach Sta., San Diego, Cal.

COLLEGE FOR WOMEN. S dard Collegi Courses. ACADEMY, Complete high school curriculum Music, Art, Expression. All Sports and Ath- letics. For Illustrated Bulletins address, The Secretary Box 50, St. Mary-of-the-Woods, Indiana.

Lindenwood College Fons 50 minutes from St. Louis. ~ oe College for — Women fully accredited. and 4 year ome Economics. an Oratory. Musle.. 138 Acres. Gymnasium, Swimming Pool. Jatalog Eg ROEMER, President, Box 524, St. Charles, Mo.

Frances Shimer School For Girls and Young Women. 2 years’ College. 4 Se rs’ Academy. Music, Art, Expression. Home conomics. sane or Campus 2 acres. Outdoor — —_ = New College dormitory. parate Dultadligg ‘or younger girls. Fall t opens September 9th, 1925. Catalog. Hf Wm. P. McKEE, Dean. Box 660, Mt. Carroll, Il.

School Information Select your school from a recommended list. he best are here. If you desire additional information, write Ha , j Bazar School Department 119 West ; 40th Street, New

MONTEZUMA MOUNTAIN SCHOOL Los Catos, California Accredited Outdoor Life all the year round

California—Co-Ed.

THE PHILIP MAYHEW COLLIER KINDERGARTEN A play-school home for normal children 3 months to7 years. Beautiful Shasta region. eg mong unexcelled. Individual care of Health, Ha Character. 12 months session. Terms Blizabeth Fleming Collier,, Prin. Grenada, Calif.

Special Schools

EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN can be developed by individual training BOYS GIRLS LITTLE FOLKS Three separate schools. 230 acres. Booklet. Miss Woods’ School, Box 152, Langhorne, Pa. Mollie Woods Hare, Principal

Western—Boys

St. John’s 's Military Academy American Rugby Eminently ann for gg = American boys. Thorough scholastic and ilita instruction. Situat on high ground in Wauk a County Lake Region. Write Box 30 A, Delatield. Wisconsin,

Academy for "THORPE Boys under 15 Beautiful i bluff location. Lake Michigan shore. 30 mil Shicago. Semi-military. Small classes. Un forms. Catalog. Address Lake Forest, Ill.

RTH TERN Mi Aas AND NAVAL ACADEMY 70 mi. from Chicago. An endowed College Prepara- tory School and Junior College. Its distinctive advan- tages ane methods interest discriminating parents. Cou. R. P. DAVIDSON, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wis.

New Mexico MilitaryInstitute A_ state-owned cavalry .T.C. Outdoor life the boy rides. Moderate rates.

ery . J. C. TROUTMAN, Supt., Box B. Roswell, N. M. FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE SCHOOL For BACKWARD CHILDREN Katonah, N. Y.—42 Miles from N. Y. In the Beautiful Hills of Westchester County. Rudolph 8. Fried, Principal.

THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING SCHOOL An ideal private home-school for nervous, back- ward and mental defectives. -No age limit. Physi- cal Culture. Manual training and all branches. 42- — and up. . Supts. New York, Binghamton, 112 Fairview Ave.

SOUND VIEW SCHOOL FOR BACKWARD CHILDREN indiviies Instruction. Summer ym! a pasine. 0 Prospect St.. Portchester, Hf el. Portchester 1556M PERKINS &igeh For children requiring —— training and educa- tion. Unsurpassed uipment on sixty-acre es- fete. Intimate. home life. Experienced Med-

direction. Franklin H. Perkins, M.D., Box 53, Lancaster, Mass.

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34 If In Doubt About a School, Ask Harper’s Bazary — ee Special Schools Professional Professional Professional HEDLEY & “Individual schoor’ and Summer Camp For Boys eae Girls who require more personal attention and individual than be given in the regular schools. Academie Industrial, Cultura Mrs. J. R. Hedley . Hedley, M.D. ph Shysician Glenside, Pa. (12 mi. from Phila.) DEVEREUX SCH@LS for Children whose Progress has been Retarded Three separate schools for Boys and Girls of all es requiring Scientific Observation and 8S jal Instruction. Male faculty for older boys. utor- ing Camp in summer. HELENA T. EVERBUX, Director, Box B, Berwyn, Pa. THE WRIGHT ORAL SCHOOL For the Deaf and Partially Deaf Mt. Morris Park West, N. Y. City. Kindergarten to College Entrance. A refined boarding and day school with home atmosphere. faculty. In- dividual attention. Out-door gymnasium. _In- struction entirely by Oral and Auricular methods. Children from —_ years up accepted Co-educa- tional. 36 Large THE BANCROFT SCHOOL For children whose development has not | progressed normally —FORTY-FIRST YEAR— Winter school near Philadelphia, Summer Camp in Maine. Fifty-four acres of ground, twenty-six buildings, sixty-eight employees, including twelve teachers and twenty-eight governesses. E. A. Farrington, M. D., Jenzia Coulson Cooley Addresses Box 155, Haddonfield, N. J. $$4444466666664444668666 AMERICAN ACADEMY OF DRAMATIC ARTS Founded in 1884 by Franklin H. Sargent America’s Leading Institution for Dra- maticand Expressional Art and Training Fully equips for LReting Teaching Directing Gives Poise, Power, Personality For any Vocation in Life. New Spring Class Begins April 1st Extension Dramatic Courses in co-operation with COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY Illustrated Catalog of all Courses from Room 175B CARNEGIE HALL, New York FESS SSF SSFS SF SSS FFFFFTS SCHOOL of the THEATRE Threshold Players Directors Clare Tree Major George Arliss Walter Hampden Elsie Ferguson Rachel Crothers Frank Craven Six months’ stock experience be- fore graduation. Dancing—Fencing —Voice development — Pantomime — Shakespeare — Play-writing. etc. Spring term opens March 30th. For Catalog address ‘The Director.” Princess Theatre, 104 W. 39th St., New York City Tutoring PRIVATE TUTOR Momentery 2 and Coltege 1 es = Branches— fodern and C moleuee by leading schools of the yetty Mrs. H. D. Roberts Schuyler 3822 New York City Professional STUDY INTERIOR DECORATION A home study course in making your home beautiful or preparing for an agreeable and lucrative profession. Send for catalog A N. Y. School of Interior Decoration 441 Madison Avenue, New York City BOSTON SCHOOL of INTERIOR DECORATION Correspondence Courses. ‘course A—Professional Training Course. Course B—Domestic Course—How to Plan Your Own House. Enroliment Limited—Write for Prospectus Address P. O. 143, Boston (Copley Station), Mass. Designing and Illustration Inspiring professions that pay igern to exclusive styles in a well equippe ed and practical school. Enrollment limited. Individual instruc- tion, Day and evening classes. FASHION ART SCHOOL Scottish Rite Temple, San Francisco, California. NEW SCHOOL OF DESIGN DOUGLAS JOHN CONNAH, Pres. Day and evening classes in Fine & Applied Arts. Two-year diploma course. Staff of 20 Specialists. NEW_YORK BOSTON 1680 Broadway 248 Boylston ‘Street DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking and Pattern a taught for whole- sale, retail or home use. Evening Classes. Call or write for particulars. McDowell Dress- making and Millinery School. Established 1876. No Branches. 58 West 40th St., New York. Traphagen School of Fashion Midyear Classes Now Forming and Illustration. Also Paint- 7 EquipmentforChildren. 200 WEST G7TH STREET, - NEW YORK Costume aud Millinery Design Instruction under bersonal direction of Emil Alvin Hartman New York.4 East 534 Street FASHION -ACADEMY- 62 West 84th Street | create | jo” re)a4.0:\ DRAMA MUSIC COLLEGE of DANCE ARTS SINGING and PHOTO-PLAY For Acting, Teaching, Directing. Devel personality and poise es- Miller sential for any vocation in life. Alviene Sir « — ‘Martin, § Stock Co. J, J. ‘Shae hubert N. Y. s and ¢ stresse: Marguerite Clark Write Stud heh to Secretary, 43 Rose Coghlan West 72nd N.Y., ask for catalog 20 ELIZABETH MACK STUDIOS Dramatic Art and Theatre Routine Actual experience in playing and staging. Address SEcRETARY, 15 W. 12th St., N. Y.C. MIssTOWNSENDS STUDIO SPEAKING VOICI DICTION PLATFORM STAGE and TERE \R ¥ . YOu EDITH COBURN NOYES SCHOOL Oral English Drama Character Education Analysis and Interprecation of Literature, Voice, Diction. Fuliy Equipped Little Theatre. 17th Year. Ep'TE CoBURN Noyes, Principal. Symphony C hambers, Boston. i, NEW YORK SCHOOL of EXPRESSION Chartered by Regents of N. Y. State Univ. 3lst year. Second term Feb. Ist. and private instruction. - publie speaking, stage. Saturday and ening classes. Defective speech cured. Catalog. 332 West 56th Street, N. Y.C Philadelphia School of Expression & Dramatic Art Acting—Teaching—Directing. Aims to develop Indi- viduality and cultivate Personality which will pro- mote success in the Professional, Business and Social World. General Culture and Finishing Courses. ELIZABETH L. SCHREINER, Head of School, Chestnut & 17th Sts. Philadelphia, Pa. THE HARRIETTE MELISSA MILLS Kindergarten-Primary Training School Affiliated with New York U niversity. Removed to Fifth Avenue at 13th Street. Students admitted at mid- oer. Exceptional residence facilities. Address {iss Harriette Melissa Mills, Principal, Four B, 63 Fifth Avenue, New York City. Opportunity to become $15 pentity Tennis, sur! TRAINED NURSE Ideal living conditions. 3 hours a New York. 8-hour coy. course. Age 18 to 32; 2 years h ye Send for descriptive folder and a. TL, SOUTHAMPTON HOSPITAL ASsso- CIATION, Southampton, Long Island. allowance. it’ 4 i> — me /—- bi _ 1k Complete Courses in All Types ot DANCING 525:5's%.25 or Classes for adgin or liven anced yy Write for Art Booklet S or Cail in person ad NED WAYBURN Studios of Stage Dancing, Inc. 1841 Broadway Entrane eo New York ‘Open 9 a.m. to 10 P.M. ‘(except Saturday evenings & Sundays) CARTER WADDELL | School of Dancing For the professional, the amateur and - ee. 18 West 72nd 8S York. Tel. Endicott 4188. ADELAIDE & HUGHES (America’ 8 Representative Dancers) dio of Dance Advanced, intermediate and beginners’ classes for children and adults in Ballet, Aesthetic and Tap Dancing. Complete training for society or the stage. Write for Catalog B. 45 W. 57th. Plaza 7635 DENISHAWN RUTH ST. DENIS AND TED SHAWN School of Dancing and Its Related Arts Short Courses Always Open. Catalogue on Request. KATHARANE Epson, Director, 327 W. 28th St., N.Y. balif Russian Wormal School of ANCING 163-165 West 57th St., N. Y. LOUIS H. CHALIF, Principal “Il admire your energy and “work.” ANNA PAVLOVA Fall and Winter Classes. Catalog on request. VESTOFF SEROVA Russian School for Dancing Russian Imperial Method of training Dancers. Ballet, toe, nature, and interpretative dancing. Several =e elties, 2 W. 72nd Street, New York. MASTER INSTITUTE OF UNITED ARTS MUSIC. --PAINTING---SCULPTURE ARC: HITECTORE === Teel x CLASS BALLET --- DRAMA --- ea Send for rt 310 RIVERSIDE DRIVE, NEW YORK city Institute of Musical Art Frank Damrosch—Director. ndowed. All branches of music. Conducted only for students of real musical ability and serious purpose. atalog on request. t. O. 120 Claremont Ave., Cor. 122nd St., New York OLD COLONY SCHOOL Secretarial and Business Training for Young Women One year course. Resident and day pupils. Florence B. La Moreaux, A.B., Mrs. Margaret Vail Fowler, princi ole, 315-317 Beacon Street, Boston, Mass. KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL of SECRETARIAL AND EXECUTIVE Training for Educated Women Boston New York Providence nited States Secretarial School 527 Fifth Avenue, New York Cit Secretarial & Business Training. Ask for C: Irving Edgar Chase, Director tar derbi ‘atalog B Register Now For BALLARD SECRETARIAL COURSE S C H O O L Established 53 Years 610Lex.Ave.at 53rd St.Central Branch Y.W.C.A. YALE UNIVERSITY SCHOOL OF NURSING Offers a twenty-eight months’ course in nursi The facilities saz errocres include the Yale School of Med icine, the G e New Haven Soapital the University Clinic, and the New Haven Visiti se Service. A limited num- ber of aepeiprenipe cia be available for students who present porane ed educa ualifications. Full information may be obtained dwens h th > Dean. YALE ScHOOL OF NURSING, | 330 Cedar Street New “HAVEN, Conn. MIS. CONKLINS SECRETARIAL SCHOOL 105 West 40th St. New York AUTTY, ZZ, Ve JPyPra Reservations now for January 6th Art Training That Brings Professional Independence And Includes The Guarded Reputation Of The _ ACADEMY of FINE ARTS ARL N. WERNTZ, Director 81 EAST MADISON STREET, CHICAGOILL NLY school of its kind NEW YORK-PARIS-London- N.Y. School of Fine & Applied Art Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. REGISTER FOR PARIS Btage Designs iliust and Decoration; Costume Tra ining; Mg by fours. buen Sessions, New York and Parise Address Secretary, 2239 roadway, N. Y. COMMERCIA, Largest Art Organ. ization in the world, teaches you a prac. tical course. Send four cents for book telling of the success of our students. Address Dept. 53, BOTH CO.. Instruction Michigan Avenue at 20th Street, Chicago Become a LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT Dignified, exclusive profession. Little came: i tition. $5,000 incomes for ex Easy to master under our _ corres Assistance extended to students and Write today for full details. AMERICAN LANDSCAPE 105-S Newark, Yous TheCambridge School Domestic Architecture and Landscape Architecture Professional School for Women HENRY ATHERTON F Rost, M. Arch. 13 Boylston St. Cambridge, Mass. “Only College of Auction Bridge” Expert personal instruction, for individuals or classes, beginners, advanced players, of teachers. Special lessons on any features. Course by mail. Visitors always welcome. Under Grottion of E. V. Shepard. SHEPARD’S STUDIO, Ine. Tel. Circle 10041 20 West 54th Street New York, N. ¥ Whitehead Auction Bridge Studio _ Advanced and Elementary Classes 25 West 5lst St., N.Y. Tel. Circle 9015. WORCESTER DOMESTIC SCIENCE SCHOOL) * Removed to Greater Boston One and two-year Normal Diploma Course Trains for teachers of sewing, cookery, ter room, dietitians and matrons. Graduates 0& cupy once nosptional positions. Reopens January 27th, For catalog address Miss Mary E. Smith, Secretary, 110 Waban Hill Road, Chestnut Hill, Mast} ee The Sargent School fiscu= tablished ies. Bookie | on eae GENT D. a SARGEN 12 Everett St., Combate we. Mass. nd Teachers’ Agencies THE FISK TEACHERS’ AGENC! Offers unparalleled service. Nearly every private school in America has employed teachers 0? ow recommendation. C. S. CROSMAN, 225 FIFTH AVE-, OFFICE PERSONNEL BUREAU (Ag 1674 Broadway Employers: it considering change in your persone consult Bo ability register n secured. B Men & Women with business Telephone Circle 7561. Lg ey: by appointmens i No fee charged until position GRAY MACDONALD bis Macda adil A Aaa iia aaah Relate gcen ef a ree 7M: ag ry ity aes

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35 Select Your Camp from the Harper’s Bazar Recommended List SS | Girls’ Camps

Girls’ Camps | wa. Gio “ious Sandstone Camp ; ona unimer , ae ? - : Green Lake, Wisconsin. 5 hrs. from Chicago. : “ : *g ——

Camping 14th season. All sports. Danci riding, dra- ow, ao ek ae RR GR Rant “Lake Morey, airlee, Esth shame th St. Omaha, por r. Chicago Office, 1204 Stevens Buildi es, spicy air and outdoor sports e ng. ow oe bodies and alert minds, e ck riding on mentoesy Pe | heres tent masters. ennis, 20) swim- wee noe and hiking trips, dancing, dramaties. Cozy bungalows, eleciric lights, running water. FE xperienced _ counsellors.

] CAMP JUNALUSKA Lake Junaluska, N.C. One of the finest ‘all round’ camps in the South for Girls. In “Land of the Sky” near Asheville. We ase Bie hi ted membership. illustrated booklet, s TNONA CAMP, 276 Summer St., Fitchburg, Mass - Lake Morey Club—a modern hotel under same management climbing, shooting, arts and crafts, nature lore. Complete ae. omens ite Tllus-

Cam *10-Da=~O (woodist ip 99 Op: “po | ad oodiend, uatet Lake, Cornis | 18 years under same director. U val living quarters, 5,000 sq. ft. of “‘screened out-of-doors.” Modern sanitation. Class A rating State Board of Health. Educational and_ recreational training carefully planned. Ages 7-20. HELEN MAyo,

| 15 Wren St. Boston, 32 Mass. Phone, Parkway 2700. , Happy gays playing. eat- : ng, sleeping, out-of-doors. Paddling on a mountain On lovely Lake Keuka, N.Y. i> onts Jake, cantering through CAMP ARE (11th season.) Unique in life, : ine forests, singing songs | spirit and associations. Unusual record of health »y the camp fires. No extra P — nee: restricted enrollment, resident White charge for riding. Complete } | 66 nurs A All land and water sports. Hikes, crews, 4 equipment for every sport | W S ( aren ey, norseback riding, dramatics, dancing. Ex- on 500-acre preserve. Golf, | H N i J M M Vi pert instructors. Member C. D. A. Mountain. water sports, games. Cozy E ER O ES Mrs. ANDRE C. FONTAINE, Roslyn Heights, L. 1. Camp cabins, electricity, running water. Experienced council- * - need co 99 for tors utoring sna French | AND CAMPING WE May Go | ALOHA CAMP FOR GIRLS

; | 2Ist season 3 camps—Vermont Girls OGONTZ SCHOOL | and New Hampshire. All sports

Rydal, Pa. | | ood eratte. a oe riding. y ° ° Sailing. anakila Camp for boys. ND summer will come even though the record breaking Booklets. im : | eee F ‘ M L. Guli cold snaps presage a long hard winter. Addington Road, Brookline, Mass, | It seems a bit incongruous, to be sure, to remind you sale ‘i } P . : : eee se anced sr ° « Lake Dunmore, Vt. — —— an ange sage ~~ aa — Camp Naidni Ser Giele, 900 28 i ing to flurry. However, this is the time to plan for your 60 acres, }4 mile lake front. Ideal vacation children’s summer. Last year a great many parents were camp. Outdoor sports, crafts, gypsying. 50 girls | ° ° = z only. Foe illustrated booklet apply to Mrs G C disappointed because they were unable to secure accommo- Britten, 7 Hillside Road, Mt. Kisco, New York dations in the camp of their choice because they delayed the ‘ selection until late spring. r ’ re 9 . : Why not avoid this experience and make reservations in Boys’ Camps Cony pa ne the 1 Northern Light, mie passenger the camp of your choice now. Even a tentative reservation over all—spee an | . . . CAMP MYSTIC... sic | which would not necessarily obligate you at the moment, CONNECTIC UT , aires iad: 4 aussetes ease rol ninn, | would be better than no reservation at all. SUMMER The salt water camp for girls. Halt way be- f L Be ; ; UL ER SURE end Ge the aa” ‘Camasod wala The camps on this page are advertising in Harper’s SCHOOLS ee enon. = ig ara Bazar because the directors want children from discrim- sports. XAty-! J | vers . . “1 g . > qraduted 1924 | Safe canoeing, horseback riding. inating families. And we have asked these camps to adver- | Panne gh B MW ooderufe. Camp. py. Gann tad tine under the personal dizection of | tise in Harper’s Bazar because we want our readers to enter Xehouls for boys 14-20. ‘Trained staf and uli 0 has had tweive seasons of practica 27 be + sc 7 mati : ~ y eapeienee (summer and winter) in camping and their children in discriminating camps. And, of course, surpassed eaipment. For catalog sddress x] jon in the Canadian Rockies anc erras r y re y ~ > > , Cee citer ond Emalth of neh Gnmnner. you W ill want your children in a camp recommended by Lake Maxtukuckeo Cuties, Indien Junior and Seniors. Age 8-18. aw booklet, Harper s Bazar. MARY L. JOBE, A. M., F. RoomC, 122 E. 37th St.. Now Vork City

Write to these camps for illustrated literature. You will CAMP WINNECOOK FOR BOYS not be obligated in any manner, but you will be interested Lake Winnecook, Unity, Maine in what they have to say. If you wish help at any time mers, riders and markatien, tthe King of a J 7. = H TT r t ti : with the selection of a camp, write to me personally. ne ge, Kenneth N. Chambers, Director

CAMP SOKOKIS FOR BOYS

€ HARPER’S BAZAR CAMP DEPARTMENT | on Long Lake i foothills of White wtinneiitiny - ne Mts. Juniors and seniors. Bunga- ¢ SILVER LAKE CAMPs | | 119 West goth Street New York City Cowis ©. Williams, 171 W. 12th St.

ot In Lake Placid Region of the New York City Chelsea 3779. Adirondacks. Separate Camps—Juniors, 8 14; Seniors, 14-20 Every provision for comfortable, pleasant

OLDE MILLE LODGE

fut? lite Lake and mountains combine to = oo snecose a A High Grade Camp for Junior Boys Only. # beck eautit Playground. Canoeing, horse- mp Chester Coste.) deighia, Expert di ing, swimming, mountain climbing. Rooker: gladly mailed upon request. rectors for every activity. Registered Dr. R. K. Eldridge

Open-air dining-room und sleeping Pres References ‘required. Catalog. Camp Director, Bromley School. Girls’ Camp BOX 21, HAVERHILL, MASS. ° ' Cart Stoll ey FA For girls 8to18. 150 acres of :4 a ES Pe Te pine woods. 3600 ft. of water- front. Unique buildings. New | CAMP ALLEGRO j e M7 Upper Darby Br., Phila., Pa.

THE TOME CAMP For boys 16 years and under to 6 years. 190 acres 12-room lodge. Inaoor sleeping” ayarsers or —_ Experienced councillors. rained Nurse. athletic equipment. Swimming, fishing, golf, rifle range, crulai ing, radio, music, tutoring. MURRAY PEABODY BRUSH, Ph.D., Mrs. I. T. BAGLEY, Directors. Address Tome School, Port Deposit, Md.

wooden bungalows complete- Silver Lake, N. H. , j i A - tng lf 0 pew xperlences and adven- lyequipped. Modern sanita xD : 712 Candens ADK, Forest Wile poe ere tion. Riding, swimming, 7. | -anoeing, motor-boating and TALL PINES CAMP all field sports, under leader-

CAMP MISHIKE ‘The Turtle’’ In the heart of the North Woods, Mishike, Vilas Co., Wis. Definite program of forestry under

i >C] r i = trained foresters. Every day an adventure. 1700 mite 1300 Pievalutude’**qmene, alfa ship of specially trained coun acres. Four miles lake shore. Write for booklet. THE cme, one ra riding, arts and crafts. cillors. 2 555-D, W. E. SANDERSON, Director, Mishike, Miss Eyeing, ers over 18. ’ REAVELEY. Box H, Elmwood, N. H. al Camp Newaka Lake, Colorado. Near Estes with riding we jativities of healthful camp life, EtG RSE wae ta ee e€ to ARY o OOR- Dt. B, 4525 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, Mo.

Mrs. Malcolm R. Lawrence 246 West End Avenue, N. Y.C. Telephone— Endicott 6407 *.. Woodland, New York. Camp Wake Robin Younger boys exclusively. Twenty-first season. Make your boy happy.

ming and ail sports. Matured Su vision an¢ and modern sanitation. Booklet. MR New JERSEY, Jersey City, Lincoln High School.

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Olfore wo hop iy ienzi Gf One on 1714 Walnut Street MARGUERITE Gowns Hats 127 South Eighteenth Street PHILADELPHIA [Fame " Smart San Francisco shops at Liebes’?! furs-frocks-coats suits-hats and accessories FE Liebe 6-Ce. Grant Avenue at Post Street San Francisco Broadway at Morrison Portland, Ore. ‘ PHILADELPHIA } The Season at Its Height ITH the holidays a dim memory on the horizon, Philadelphia has settled down to a gay routine of dances and theatre parties, of receptions for débutantes and of mid-season marriages. b] They tell us that “everybody” is South, but of course “everybody” isn’t South. At a dance at the Bellevue, in fact, the other night one judged just the contrary to be true, for every well-known young maid and matron seemed to be present. For the South, however, the smart Philadelphia shops offer costumes that will prove dazzling even against the glaring background of white sand and emerald palms. For those who stay at home as well, the shops have new frocks and gowns and wraps tempting enough to make one wish to stay at home if simply to wear them. Up and down Walnut Street and Chestnut Street, from Eighth Street up to and beyond aristocratic old Ritten- house Square, one discovers delightful trifles, sparkling jewels, costumes that speak of Paris—an array altogether irresistible. The season is, indeed, at its height. correct clothes 8 for all points north or sou onmit Geller & Co, Chestnut Street Philadelphia WHERE t CALIF O°? HEN a Californian polo team came to Long Island last fall and performed various miracles of good play and good sportsmanship it gave some be- nighted Easterners a slight shock They were, it is true, ready to grant that California boasted wonderful sunshine, a delightful climate but otherwise—-! A visit to California, no matter how brief, would indeed be a pleasant awakening for many 2 provincial New Yorker. For he would find, not only a tremendous alertness in sports but also a keen understanding of smartness in attire. The well-dressed women of California and the exceptionally modish shops which cater to them do, in fact, set a standard of their own in smart apparel. _MAGNIN & © | | Grant Avenue a Geary Cfireet 0) CISCO | mporters and Retailers of EXCLUSIVE APPAREL and ACCESSORIES d or ‘Woinen ou Misses HOLLYWOOD 6340 Hollywood Bled LOS ANGELES The Ambassador PASADENA Hotel Maryland CORONADO Hotel Coronado SANTA BARBARA The Arlington DEL MONTE Hotel Del Monte | | HARPER’S BAZagpea [0 oo lead Saale aes Jewelers Silversmths Stationers Established 1832 Philadelphia THE POLISHED | — GIRDLE DIAMOND | _ Marvelously Brilliant The appropriate Engagement Ring Correspondence Invited Photographs mailed ant eoanetee Re Bailey T ext and Colonial Script The accepted Engraving for Wedding Invitations and T Announcements Samples Mailed 5. + be St OSS, SYS = OS Ste hed, N CHESTNUT or Walnut Street in Philadelphia as on Fifth Avenue in New York; on the rue de la Paix in Paris as in Bond Street in London, Harper's Bazar is recognized as the de luxe magazine of fashion and society. = St a 7) Yignse iy ie 2 a oy Harper’ S Bazar 50c 2/- IN LONDON 6-fr. IN PARIS tT } 4 y VV tart Shi es for Fae BU enc van ete eeen WA, {4 Pay: -

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2 =| . | ; = ye & $ jor FEBRUARY 1925 Whore wo hor in Clew New York Paris Ann O Connor, we. for Smart Sport, Daytime and Evening (lothes The Shop of Indtviduality ++ 543 Madison Avenue —— NEW YORK SOCIAL CALENDAR.—for FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 1 Sunday Ev vening Musicale, The Madison. Waldorf-Astoria FEBRUARY 3 Annual Charity Ball, Hotel. Third of series of Tuesday dinner dances under direction of Miss Florence James, No. 14 East 60th Street. FEBRUARY 4 Annual Ball for benefit of social service Yomen’s Auxiliary of the work of the French Beeital, Ritz-Carlton Hotel. FEBRUARY Annual Ball of Society of Beaux Arts, Astor Hotel. FEBRUARY 6. Aztec Ball for benefit of the American Indian Defense Association, Ambassador otel. Third Junior Hotel. Assembly, Friday Evening Supper Club, Ambas- sador Hotel. First February Frolic for benefit of Jacob A. Riis Settlement, Plaza Hotel. FEBRUARY ae Mid-Year Dance, Ritz-Carlton Pall Mat > ged Club, Lorraine Hotel. FEBRUA a Sunday Evening Musicale, The Madison. FEBRUARY 10. Fifth Yorkville Supper Dance, benefit of the Yorkville Center, Ritz-Carlton Hotel. Marriage of Miss Helen Reception at Park Lane. Fourth of series of Tuesday James, No. 14 East 60th Street. Ritz-Carlton for the Community Hackett, daughter of Harold H. Hackett, of No. 580 Park Avenue, to Gilbert B. Keech, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frank B. Keech. dinner dances under direction of Miss Florence FEBRUARY 13. Friday Supper Club, Ambassador Hotel. Second February Frolic, for benefit of Jacob A. Riis Settlement, Plaza Hotel. FEBRUARY 14. Annual Spring Dance for the benefit of the Social Service and Occupational Therapy Departments of the Recon- struction Hospital, Sherry’s Pall Mall Supper Club, Lorraine Hotel. FEBRUARY 15. Sunday Evening Musicale, The Madison. FEBRUARY 18. Lecture by Ernest Newman on “ Musical Mannerisms of Favorite Composers,” at the home of Mrs. Marshall Field, No. 690 Park Avenue. FEBRUARY 19. Second Annual Motion Picture Carnival, for benefit of seven organized charities, Hotel Plaza. Third ‘‘Jinks Dance,” Boys’ Club, Pierre's. FEBRUARY 20. Annual Ball of New York Auxiliary of the Southern Industrial Educational Association, Hotel Roosevelt. Friday Supper Club, Ambassador Hotel. Third February Frolics, for benefit of Jacob Riis Settlement, Plaza Hotel. FEBRUARY 21. Pall Mall Supper Club, Lorraine Hotel. FEBRUARY 22. Sunday Evening Musicale, The Madison. FEBRUARY 27. Annual Dinner of Society of the Genesee, Hotel Commodore. Fourth February Frolics, for benefit of Jacob Riis Settlement, Plaza Hotel. FEBRUARY 28. Pall Mall Supper Club, Lorraine Hotel. for benefit of 1OW.S50T#ST, NEW YORK Paris Sends NEW FROCKS For Little Patriots! TO CREATE WARDROBES OF MARKED g INDIVIDUALITY FOR CHILDREN IS THE ; PRIVILEGE OF FAIRYLAND. Everything for Infants and Little Boys and Girls to 12 Years Models of exquisite simplicity, aoe. stitched —_ _— ed in is by French _ Imported Toys Lenci Dolls Portrait Dolls MADAME WILL BE SERVED BY FRENCH SALESWOMEN UT A l of White or Gray Previously waved Hair Protected by new Process ienne requires the of the ia mea a la Gar- found only at Schaeffer's. Pc 1924 *Trademark Phone for appointment, Bryant 7615 : ASCHAEFFER, G meena QVENUE “T feel and look like a new person” “I was amazed at the marvelous change in my appearance after receiving the Albert C. @ Geyser, M.D. g Treatment Method. My SUPER- FLUOUS HAIR was removed en- tirely and as mever returned.”” Such is the comment TRICHO receives daily from the hundreds who have been benefited. TRICHO SYSTEM Here at TRICHO is a famous professor formerly at Ford- Polyclinic and “ rio afte Be. years’ research, has create a scien- REMOVED tific method for the permanent WITHOUT ‘removal of superfluous hair quarenteed bya money-backof- PAIN er. Consult us without obliga- tion. Interesting booklet No. 1 TRICH HAIR sent in plain sealed envelope. 270 MADISON AVE. NEW YORK Give Two Weeks to Beauty and Rest N aperiod of sequestration of from ten days to two weeks, Madame Mays’ scientific method gives you new youth and new auty. Wrinkles, freckles, lines about the eyes and relaxed tissues of the face and throat are re- placed by a skin of fine youthful texture. Clients from outside New York, while taking the treatment, have all the comforts and luxury of an elegantly appointed private home. All consultations and treatments are in the strictest confidence. Two weeks’ rest and then new beauty— isn't it worth while? Complete details and a booklet on request MADAME MAYS 50 West 49th Street New York $500 for 100 Packs _fbonogram | ked and Match Packs With Your Own Initials Colors of Match Packs: Gold, Silver, Light Blue, Black, Blue, Orange, Yellow, Green, Purple, Lavender. Colors of Initials: Gold, Silver, Black, White. Smart for the Vanity’ Case—Ideal for the Hostess. A Charming Gift—Packed in a Tin. Mail order and check at once to THE CAN-DLE-LUXE SHOP (CANDLES OF QUALITY) 619-H Madison Avenue Carried by such joes shops Lord & Taylor Ifred Dunhill, Lt d. B. Altman & Co. The Ritz-Carlton Hotel DISTRIBUTORS apply to; — York Kay and Ellinger, Inc. 342H Madison Ave, N.Y. THE HYPATIA MELT-A-WA CORS-0-BAND DOES REDUCE This beautifully designed garment—scientifically boned back and front, fast- . ens on left side front, and \.smartly controls the full ) figure while reducing. SPECIAL FEATURES 1. Side lacings enable the . Extra long wear is as- sured by the strength and firmness of the rubber covered mesh used. This precludes the possibility nN of ripping. 3. Alterations are also made possible. Price $15.00 A Particular Soave for Particular Women he better shops Mail eten pn thee careful attention Write for ae * ord by you may c by mail, giving ‘set, Corset Studio and be y an expert corsetiere under the personal seperviaies oF our desig ne: 20-22-24 WEST 37TH STREET Just Off Fifth Avenue NEW YORK, N. Y. CO, Ine. BuuckDeiss MILLINERY 6 West 571 Street A step from Fifth Avenue NEW YORK The World's Show Place of Fashion HATS, GOWNS, COATS and WRAPS Prices Never Excessive = ORO AFL MT LT HON = ur Gowns and Millinery are remarkable for their charming simplicity NEW MODES Gowns BEING SHOWN Street Frocks Evening Costumes RAY MORRIS will be glad to have you know her shop Transformations — How They Differ ! Almost all look equally at- tractive in the beginning. But it is the Pierre Trans- formation, made as it is of the finest naturally wavy hair, painstakingly produced and skillfully fitted, that con- tinues to look so even after a year’s wear. A, oes v= sf ee 1 ew a aa aVvaw Wa wow War Vm an ae We om avo oA ee ~ ae Woe 9¥

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BEER COUTURIER Permanent exhibitions of the latest creations in tailor made dresses, mantles, furs, and tea-gowns 7, Place Vendome Paris Brandt 16, rue de la Paix Paris HARPER’S BAZAR Fourrures Robes Manteaux Lingerie MARTIAL & ARMAND oft 7 COUTURIERS Af RoseS CHAN TAL Mewnibine MyRBoR 5 PARIL z we Vignon 4 Paris - Deauville | 4irwe ale Mondor PARIS PLACE DE LA CONCORDE 10, Place Vendéme 13, Rue de la Paix LONDON 19, Albemarle Street (Piccadilly) De Luxe Gloves and Hosiery Paris 10 rue Auber (Opéra ) Cannes Biarritz 14, Bd de la Croisette 10, rue Mazagran MYRBOR designs clothes for the woman who seeks an expression of personality in her gowns.

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for FEBRU ARY 1925 39 | Limiore:

champs-elysees

i i | | i y | | madeleine | | vionnet robes, manteaux, ! fourrures, lingerie 50. avenue montaigne, paris | 657-659, fifth ave.. new york

Il y a de la personnalité et de la beaute dans co le domaine de la Mode, comme dans celui | des Beaux Arts. Leurs affinites sont telles que l'un et l'autre se confondent. Mais la | Mode doit rester l’apanage de ses créateurs!

ge —

PLACE DE LA BOURSE PARIS and BIARRITZ AIX LES BAINS MONTE CARLO

meena L

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The moment you arrive in Paris ELIZABETH ARDEN 2, Rue de la Paix Tele. Central 04-28 For a Cleansing Stimulating Skin Treatment LONDON NEW YORK

1, Place Vendéme Paris DRESSES - COATS-TRICOTS LINGERIE - MILLINERY AGENTm™ NEW YORK Mapame CUSSON 500, Fifth Avenue, Seo

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WHERE TO SHOP [* midinettes de la place Vend6me ignorent sans nul doute que celle-ci fut le cadre de splendides divertissements. Tout d’abord le pompeux défilé de l’Ambassade Turque en WH 1721. Puis les fameux “bals de bois,” donnés par les Parisiens en l’honneur du Dauphin, fils de Louis XV, par son mariage avec Marie Thérése d’Espagne en 1745. Devenu veuf, il 1! mi épousa en 1747 une enfant de 16 ans, la Princesse Marie e Joséphe de Saxe. Cette nouvelle union fut célébrée par un bal encore plus brillant encore que le premier. Vivant loin de la Cour, ils furent heureux et eurent beaucoup d’enfants—comme dit le bon Perrault— parmi lesquels Louis XVI, Louis XVIII et Charles X. C’est seulement un siécle plus tard que la place Venddme devint le centre de la Grande Couture. La premiére qui s’y installa fut la Maison Aine Montaillé, fondée en 1853 par le grand-pére du propriétaire actuel. Elle avait alors pour enseigne “A la Place Vendome.” Cette ancienneté est la plus belle des lettres de noblesse. La Maison Aine Montaillé continue les traditions qui ont fait son succes. Elle aime les Américaines et s’ingénie 4 les satisfaire. Pour favoriser leurs achats, elle a créé une succursale 4 New York ot elle présente ses plus jolis modéles. La directrice, Madame Cusson, vient de rentrer, rapportant une collection toute nouvelle pour le printemps. Robes, manteaux, chapeaux suivent la note si aimée d’Aine Montaillé et offrent beaucoup de fantaisie et d’originalité. Que citer parmi toutes ces jolies choses? Le ravissant manteau blanc peint en tons pastels trés doux, réunis par une broderie d’or, offre un ensemble d’une élégance exquise et d’un goit trés parisien. Aliu. Saaungein ~ HARPER’S BAZAR”

MARTHE PINCHART |

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Number 2548 58th Year Midseason Avis > sagged les modéles reproduits dans notre magazine sont la propriété de leurs créateurs. Les reproductions, imi- lations ou contrefagons méme partielles peuvent toujours entrainer contre leurs auteurs des poursuites de la part des créateurs et de l’ Association des Arts Plastiques et A ppliqués en France et a l’Etranger. FASHION IN CHRYSALIS FORM ONG before the Paris houses create new models, the fabrics for those models have, of course, been woven. In fact, the master weavers of France, Bianchini and Coudurier, Rodier, Ducharne and Meyer, play a very important part themselves in influencing the mode. Their fabrics represent the mode in its first or chrysalis form— the cocoons from which will burst forth, later, the glorious butterflies of the Parisian ateliers. With the new fashions for spring in mind, therefore, Marjorie Howard’s article on page fifty-two is particularly interesting, for in viewing the collections of the leading fabric houses she has gained some definite ideas as to what will be smart this spring. REYNALDO LvuUZA IN PARIS ME LUZA, who has made so many charming drawings “* for Harper’s Bazar from the collections of various New York houses, is now representing Harper’s Bazar in Paris. His first drawings made in Paris appear in this issue. For SeorTinG EVENTS FoR a most complete summary of sports costumes for . Such habitual activities as golf and such esoteric avoca- Hons as flying, turn to page seventy. The laws of the Correct sports costume are as fixed as those of the Medes and the Persians, but this article of Marie Lyons &lves absolutely correct guidance. Harper's bazar FEBRUARY 1925 Number Fashions Cover by Erté Page “In the South,” Frontispiece PEGE OS TONE TPIT: gs iv hoo a alpine SENS elas oie nels vs 42 “Models That Influence the Mode,” by Lucile Buchanan PE IES oan ee ns hone bes eae ae eS 43,44, 45, 46, 47 Palm Beach and LAs Pascid SRA-Gnns ss... og cis oo baw dele 00s eines aves 48,49 “The Victorian Soiree,” by Herman Patrick Tappé Drawn by Katharine Sturges... ............ 50, 51 “The Paris Mode in the Making,” by Marjorie Howard Draae te Devaar’ B..66 Memes 5 6 ad lnindeeteaaieeseet See EG OG TEI oa 5. os ay cs ace ena dare sintatte Woplaeggt a pio 54, 55, 58, 59 PRG ao 680 5 op eh de Roe Hh es 56, 54 “Very Old Amber,” The Story of a Woman Who Didn’t Know What She Wanted, by Mildred Cram Tiustvated Oy Tot LAG... . . o .siibe venees sees Ep erik 60, 61 SGRERERICNaY CREE BI TN oo doers nino a sido. 0,0:0 5 dig Mele RRS MORAL . 62, 63, 64, 65 “The Great Pandolfo,” A New Novel of Extraordinary Romance, by William J. Locke Tilusirated by Tresry Raleigh... 6 es wun w res 66, 67 Portrait of Grace Moore, of ‘The Music Box Revue”’..................-. «-. 68 Portrait of Madame la Comtesse de Beausacq.................--0 20 ee eee 69 “The Technique of Sports Clothes,” by Marie Lyons pe ee eee ee eerie ee 70, 71, 72, 73 Fe ee ne er nr rr 74,75 I ee 38s a vss cigs dn ch nw Reese cscs FO, 99 “Spring Flow’rets,” A Story of Devastating Satire, by Richard Connell DT TE Oo 550s 5 0 ace Bens oh wae bee TE 78,79 “A Conversation About Southern Clothes” Photographs by Baron de Meyer.......... 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89 “A Worthy Quittance,” A Story that Solves the Problem of Two Men and a Beautiful Woman, by E. Phillips Oppenheim Felssiiled Oe EOP SIONS. «8 oo io nk ds hoc seken rea aeane 90, OI Distinguished New American Motor-cars. . .... 6 ...066 sec ceee se gwen cecscee es 92, 93 awk Wiieie Surtees GO PAR. fo chk no oivas cen bivans cabuweeds 94, 95 New Accessories for Travel and for Every-day Use....................4. aa 96 NEXT MONTH: EARLY SPRING FASHIONS NUMBER Harper's Bazar is published monthly in the U. S. A. by the International Magazine Company, Inc., William Randolph Hearst, president; C. H. Hathaway, vice-president; Ray Long, vice-president ; Joseph A. Moore, treasurer; Austin W. Clark, secretary, 119 West 40th Street, New York City. Single copies, 50 cents. Yearly subscription in United States and dependencies, $4.00. In Canada, $5.00. In foreign countries, $6.00. (All subscriptions are payable in advance and at the full price.) When you receive notice that your subscription has expired it is best to renew it at once, using the blank enclosed. When changing an address, give the old address as well as the new and allow five weeks for the Tst copy to reach you. Entered at the New York Post ffice as second-class mail matter. Copyright, 1925, by the International Magazine Company, Inc. (Harper’s Bazar). Harper’s Bazar is fully protected by copyright and nothing that appears in it may be reprinted either wholly or in part without permission.

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HARPER’S BAZASE Gh the Ga * te ) by Yrian

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Dt mera for FEBRUARY 1925 The soft velours hat with pointed crown and a tassel of feathers or silk slightly toward the back is typical of what all Paris now considers smart. Reboux makes this beret of cerise plush; it is the hat that smart Paris wears when it is not wearing a little pointed plush “shooting hat.” MODELS THAT INFLUENCE THE MODE These Are a Handful of Models in Paris Which Are Not Only Extremely Smart and Influential Now But Will Govern the Spring Mode as Well By Luci.Le N THE following pages is a collection of nine models that have a strong influence on the mode in Paris now, and will influence the mode for spring. They have been chosen with reference to line, to fabric, and to color. The O’Rossen suit at the top of page forty-six is of dark green velveteen or cotton velvet. The fact that this suit is shown with a high collar is both significant and interesting. In all the midseason collections in Paris this season, high collars were shown as a definite part of the daytime mode. Dark green has established itself in the mode now and will continue to be good for spring. Besides the O’Rossen suit shown on page forty-six is the suit from Premet with its shorter coat. This has much in common with the O’Rossen suit, since it is double-breasted and rather straight and loose of line. This will be made for spring in light weight mixtures imported from England for men’s wear, in grays, beiges, and browns. This model is gray, worn with a blouse of toile de soie. The sports costume will continue to dominate the mode; for both daytime and evening the simple sports idea of boyish youthfulness will be as influential as it is now. There will be many frocks of soft woolens, par- ticularly of kasha cloth, in beige and shades of tan and brown. The vareuse blouse will continue to be smart. Lanvin has made a little kasha cloth frock, shown at the lower left on page forty-six. This frock is gray; the French designers are making definite attempts to launch gray—not a cold blue-gray, but a warm smoky gray, such as Lanvin has used for this frock. This gray will probably not attain the popularity of beige, because it is more difficult to wear and has not the distinction of beige. The important forecast points of this Lanvin frock are the deep box-plaits in the skirt, the double- BUCHANAN breasted fastening, the belt, and the important sleeve. At the lower left on page forty-seven, is the typically smart and simple little satin or crépe frock that is good now and was good last spring, and will continue to be good in the coming spring. Vionnet makes this type of frock to perfection; her infallible sense of design keeps the proportions exactly right. The skirt of this type of frock is short, so that the waist-line must be suppressed in order to avoid the unfortunate proportion of very short skirt and long torso. This frock has the long line from shoulder to hem, broken with some interest toward the hem. Vionnet accomplishes this with sections of godet plaits. Black will still be distinguished for after- noon, with color added by jewels. The ensemble will continue to influence all dress, from sports to evening clothes. The ensemble from Lelong, shown at the right on page forty-six is one of Lelong’s newest ideas of the type that will continue to be good for daytime in the spring. Surah silk is used for'this costume; surah silk is being revived by the French manufacturers for spring and is destined for success. The coat is black surah, lined with white surah and there is a long tunic blouse of the white surah. The tunic blouse shows every indication of continuing till spring. In the middle, at the bottom of page forty-seven, is a Jenny frock that follows the rule of keeping the bodice simple and the skirt elaborate, one of the fashion laws that will continue to obtain in the spring. This frock from Jenny’s new collection is black chiffon over satin, with a skirt in oval tabs, with borders of black satin and centers of woven strips of chiffon like basket-work. Chiffon will keep its vogue, both for afternoon and evening. The typical chiffon frock from Patou, with its slender silhouette, made full at the sides so that the material may float, is an excellent example of the chiffon frock as it is done now, and will be done in the spring. 43

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Luncheon at the Madison HARPER’S BAZAR PARIS BUILDS ITS HATS HIGH This Le Monnier hat of soft brown felt with a shaving brush of badger fur has a high crown built higher by a flange that runs across the top from side to side. Models on both pages imported by ROLLEE UPON ITS SLEEK AND SMARTLY SHINGLED HEAD resembled an 1840 gentleman’s top-hat, called for some obscure reason a square crown, and now the pointed crown and its many and remarkable variations. If the crown itself is not pointed to suggest height, the ornament is built up to emphasize the height. The plush “shooting hat” shown by Harper’s Bazar in the December issue was the forerunner of all these pointed hats. From this was developed the felt hat with the fold across the crown shown at the upper left on the opposite page, and the one of similar feeling at the upper right on this page. Another variation of this hat is the satin beret that Reboux now drapes on the head, one that frames the face closely and then builds out in height and width to suit the face. NIRST the round crown of the cloche, then the crown that Another version of the “ shooting hat”’ that appeared earlier in the season is of gray felt, folded across the crown and trimmed with gray feathers; Maria Guy. The shape of this Le Monnier hat, built up to a crown, is simple enough, but remarkable detail ts given the hat by having brown felt and straw sewn together. Bing Coe ct at ais Seay AAR tithe ag gS

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The fold that distinguishes so many of the newest Paris hats runs from front to back on this Le Monnier hat. THIS HIGH HAT HAS INTERESTING VARIATION (Above) One of the curious helmet-like hats that Le Monnier is making ts of black satin with height given it by an upstanding satin loop in the back. (Left) For Southern wear. Made by Suzy of cerise faille, built up tu a decided point, and trimmed with flat buttons covered with the faille. (Right) Another Le Monnier hat made by drap- ing satin bands is built up to the new height by means of satin loops that cross in the back. Typical of the soft velours hats that Reboux is making now. Dark blue, with the crown folded across the top.

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46 HARPER’S BAZAR y% O’Rossen makes this suit of dark green velveteen or cotton velvet. The high collar with a jabot is now mak- ing a definite impression in Parts. The suit, with the short coat shown here as Premet makes it, or with the long coat by O’ Rossen, is one of the strong notes of the mode in Paris. Surah silk, revived by Paris for spring and destined for success, 18 used for this black and white en- semble for day wear. From Lelong. THE SILHOUETTE THAT WILL INFLUENCE THE MODE FOR SPRING | yi i There will be many frocks of soft woolens, The ensemble will continue its vogue in particularly of kasha. This Lanvin frock the spring, from sports to evening clothes. is chosen because it is kasha, and gray. This is the coat of the ensemble above.

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This chiffon frock from Patou its typical in silhouette of the chiffon frock Paris wears. There are newer, but none influence the mode more. There is a marked tendency to ac- centuate the shoulders of the evening gown. This white satin frock with a silver guipure yoke is from Premet. DAY AND EVENING MODES THAT IMPRESS PARIS MOST | i; | 1 ; | f i N as J % ™, \ SAth in H ff} \ For afternoon spring wear there will be The skirt elaborate and bodice simple— Odd embroidery is still occupying the many soft satins and crépes, such as the this is one of the laws which will continue attention of Paris and will continue to extremely simple Vionnet frock above. to be observed this spring. From Jenny. do so in the spring. From Molyneux.

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HARPER’S BAZAR ee William Codman of Bos- ton and the John L. Rutherfurds of New York, winning a race with the surf at Palm Beach. On the long, shallow beach the surf racing is superb. SUN AND OCEAN AND PALM GROVES AT PALM BEACH tN TERNATIONAL The Earl Deakins are always among the first to fly southward and the last to leave. One can get good golf in many places, but Florida sunshine can be found only in Florida. : Mi 4 3

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for FEBRUARY 1925 Ne 15 Beatrix Loughran, pride | # Suzanne and his Arctic of the smart New York i tte sled dogs are as much a Skating Club and winner : feature of Lake Placid of high Olympic skating . . Club as Ski Hill and the honors, enjoys the perfect ps hockey rink, the pillars of j weather and the perfect } Te ice and the roaring log- facilities for winter sport » jires. Every one ‘ goes at Lake Placid Club. mushing with Suzanne. hitie Eb iat WRN cae ICE | AND SNOW | AND PINE FORESTS AT PLACID LAKE STEOMAN

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50 AARPER’S BAZ TT She Victorian Jovree LON NN ff - ere ——eeeoeeoeoerre eee eS ee Rint tata iting ssi Asia, 2A AA A~AWAAAL ADL 2 AAA AMA ee as ae ae ett eee Pe Prat Tee SS

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for FEBRUARY 1925 a ptedgtacin Pst, ee } | \ | j } ) | | \ \ { \ \ \ ) \ | | , \ ee

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’ tN c 2 rue de la Paix, Paris. HEN I tell people that the great designers V \ do not know on the first of January what they are going to show in Feb- ruary, they look as if they thought that I was a sorcerer’s apprentice, determined to keep up the profitable mystery of the craft. Nevertheless, while it is true that the spring models at this time are still locked in the minds of their creators, it is also true that the preparations for the two great seasons, in February and August, begin long before those dates. While the actual clothes are still the baseless fabric of a dream, the fabric itself is lying, great rolls of it, in the storehouses of the artist-manufacturers of France, whose creations are reserved for the world’s leading dressmakers. That is why it is said that Paris fashions begin with the undyed threads. And so a review of them is the best available fore- cast information. It is not at all easy to see these collections; not that their creators are not proud of them, but because every one wants to look. at them at once. Sample collections are prepared and carried about all day long from great house to great house, so that the directors, creators, and modelistes may chose the materials in which their ideas wil] ultimately be realized. I visited Ducharne, for example, late one afternoon just as the collec- tion returned from Chanel’s. She had tied great soft knots in the swatches which pleased her, and they were all soft crépes, printed with groups of lines making stripes. One, I remember, had a clear pale yellow ground with stripes in brown, and I shall expect to meet this again on the February Sunday afternoon when she invites me to see her new models. When one has seen the principal fabric collec- tions, one knows, at least, with what ingredients the couturiers will combine their sartorial feast. The silk houses, for example, are making much of a new surah, which Bianchini calls ‘“britasura” and Ducharne “gabardine de soie.” Here is a material in which we shall see a great many en- sembles and one-piece frocks. Its thickness pre- cludes the possibility of much fulness, but its supple- ness will allow for the modified circular cut, or the slight flare which makes for comfort of movement. We deduce from this that silk ensembles, on THE PARIS HARPER’S BAZAR MODE Paris, Far From Producing Logically and In Good According to slender lines with some slight flare, will be good, and we are confirmed in our opinion when we find that Ducharne and Bianchini are both still making ribbed silks for the same purpose. Bianchini calls his “velvaflor,” and draws attention to its new satiny surface; Ducharne names his “cételé frisé,” and shows that there is some artificial silk in it by pointing out that it is cold to the touch—something I did not know before. All the silk people are showing such a tempting array of new prints, on crépe Georgette, crépe de Chine, and above all on chiffon, that their con- tinued vogue is quite certain. The designs, this year, are either geometric or flowery, or else 4 PONSA: SnD Pete BCE: DI RS

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= 4 bi & me for FEBRUARY 1925 IN THE MAKING Its Models In a Fine Frenzy, Order Cuts Its Coat Its Cloth combination of both. Stripes, especially in groups — of lines, are very good; polka dots appear, especially at Ducharne’s, in such variety, from moons to Pinpricks, that it is impossible that the couturiers should not “compose” in them. The rose is the favorite flower, with poppies, perhaps, a good second. There are quantities of borders—could we have a surer indication of the continuance of tunics in all their multiple variations? Bianchini has a charm- ng way of confining his printed designs to the center of the material, leaving a plain border on each side, which solves half the modeliste’s problem for Im. It is odd to note that all three leaders, Bianchini, Coudurier and Ducharne (to mention them in strict alphabetical order) call attention to taffeta; not taffetas which suggest robes de style, but plaids, checks, and stripes, which make ws think of the futilities of the ’eighties, with their plaited frills and ruches. Is this significant? At least it is suggestive. As to colors, they are, in general, softer, with special emphasis on what the French call camaieux, or the combination of several shades of the same color. The Worth model on page fifty-seven illus- trates this. I notice many greens and blues in combination, and, at Bianchini’s, an odd mingling of red, blue, and ¢éte de négre on a “ britasura”’ of cubist design. At Ducharne’s, the colors are often brought out by a discreet addition of gray to the pattern. Bianchini mentions particularly the reds, citing the great vogue of all these shades, from rose to deep wine, in the present evening mode. Coudurier speaks of the browns, black, and beige, with some greens, and has particular faith in blew marine. Drawing by Bernard B. de Monvel Ducharne draws attention to their bleu de France and to the softness of this year’s combinations. Then there are the woolens. Here, kasha is king. Thereis not the slightest indication of its decline and fall. Rodier has all the old favorites, some of which are already almost unprocurable in certain colors on account of the tremendous demand. Among the new ones there is “poplakasha” with a raised line, stripe, plaid or check, in silk, which, he tells us, every house in Paris has bought. There is a new square weave, called “kasha natté”’: and all kinds of new colors, the pastel shades ranking high, and also magenta, salmon, orange, mahogany, and duck green. Meyer is making, this year, a series of kashas, which he calls “Dorkas,” many of them with an indistinct pattern, éom sur ton or all in the same color. He stresses particularly the blue, green, yellow, and brown, but includes many mauves in his color range. His favorite designs are the zig- zags, called “chevrons.” : After the kashas, the tweed-like fabrics, suggest- ing men’s materials, are next in favor. Rodier calls his series ‘“‘burafyl,”’ and makes them in the entire range of brown, from unbleached color to deep seal. in all-over patterns, small and geometric, and in

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HARPER’S BAZAR f{ TWO NEW VIONNET THE MODELS SOUTH countless border designs. Meyer’s are all stripes in a sort of herring-bone, and he calls them “ Rayures Limousines,” because in the old department of France, called “ Limousin,” stripes were all the rage. Rodier says that his “‘algas,” or alpacas, are in as great demand as ever. I must mention a new crépey rep of his, for many houses are buying largely of it; and a novelty in the form of the finest jersey I ever saw, made entirely in kasha wool. Meyer continues his crépey weave called “‘frisca,” which Molyneux used last year for one of his most successful models; and his revival of the cashmere of our grandmothers, called “saiga.”’ WuHicnh SILHOUETTE? A* TO the types of models into which all these wonders will be converted, no sensational change is expected. The amusing struggle, between narrow lines and fulness, still goes on. The “‘narrows”’ have it, on the whole, because they are content to be themselves, while the “‘fulls”’ are still trying to eat their cake and have it too by looking narrow. Sports things will keep their proud An interesting Vionnet model in white kasha cloth is em- broidered in shades of beige and brown and gray. This model has three arm-holes so that it wraps around the figure. FOR Vionnet designed this for Cannes in white “grain de poudre.” It is a one-piece frock cut so that the back makes a loose jacket effect. position, influencing the whole of the daytime mode with their boyish practicality. Formal afternoon clothes will continue to be rather neglected. This is inevitable in our modern life, which abhors formality in dress before nightfall as Nature abhors a vacuum. About the only occasion left for formal afternoon attire is the daylight wedding; and life is very far from being all as merry as a marriage bell. How- ever, ensembles in “‘expensive’’ materials are still im- portant; last year, they were collared with fur all sum- mer; this year, many of them are taking to feathers. If daytime dress is chastely simple, evening dress, on the contrary, is growing constantly richer. Paris, which likes to account for everything, says that this is to encourage the revival of the tail coat among men. Unless the evening gown is made of chiffon, its brief span from décolleté to hem is as complicated as algebra with beads, embroidery, and spangles, often of the maddest conception of design. And evening wraps—simple straight coats as many of them are—are often incredibly sumptuous. Evening frocks are brief, but daytime ones are briefer. We cannot talk about the /ength of skirts any more; there is nothing left but shortness. This The trimming is of cut-out black satin. leads inevitably to the discussion of waist-lines. The very low line must go. It is as incompatible with the very short skirt as the lion and the lamb. Otherwise, the unfortunate wearer appears to be all body and no legs. CONCERNING PROPORTIONS NE would expect that the Empire line, con- versely, would give the impression of all legs and no body. This effect, however, can be charming on the right person, and many artists have raved over it. Consistently enough, we find constant suggestions of the raised line—noth- ing “Period,” you understand, with a capital “P”; but a yoke, a transparency, a trimming; something to lead the eye to this part of the body. There is practically no indication of the so-called “natural” waist-line at present, though some de- signers are experimenting with it. The best opinion I can get refuses to believe in it, and so do I; for the simple reason, that the modern elastic girdle, or shallow corset-belt, will not permit it, and I can- not conceive of a return to (Continued on page 58) so auatnis, Paw AS desta ae ar ting aS: ee ee a ne

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for FEBRUARY 19 o- eee ) ose reeeere «<e.

CALLOT DEMONSTRATES THAT

- GOWNS MAY BE SHORT, BUT IMPORTANT An extraordinary Callot gown is shown above, one worn only by Mme. Gerber, the younger, and by Mrs. Jean Nash, Over a foundation of thin black satin are traced intricate Chinese designs in soft color so that the embroidery seems to be not applied, but a part of the wonderful supple fabric. The high neck-line, and the long thin strips of fabric twisted about the arms to form sleeves, are essentially Callot. Callot made this gown for Jean Renouardt’s new play, “‘Nounette,”” and even broke her rules, because Callot never makes new models out of season. It is a lovely gold-colored chiffon frock embrcidered in paillettes and beads of gold. This gown demonstrates that an evening gown may be rich even if it is short and youthful, and it shows the proper pro- portion between the very short skirt and long waist-line. EVENING

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56 COSTUMES FROM PARIS (Right) For spring the sports costume will still be the chief influence in the mode. This Lelong costume brown mixed tweed has a lap-over skirt with a square-cut ‘‘culotte”’ underneath. HARPER’S BAZAR (Left) This is the costume shown at the extreme left with the coat over it. The coat has a very interesting square look accen- tuated .by the slot seams that Paris is putting on so many of its top-coats now. (Middle) For this frock, Lelong has used blue and white polka-dotted crépe de Chine, cut with the slight flare toward the hem typical of all his midseason models, whose interest is toward the lower part of the skirt. Premet holds to the en- semble for spring, with the idea of the long plain coat and printed or plaid frock, or long tunic blouse. The costume shown here is black ottoman, with the coat unlined, and black and white plaid surah silk. «> te eI |e | mi A Premet intends that the garcon frock shall keep its place in the spring mode. This one is of light weight and light-colored covert cloth with a chemisette of white batik. Premet shows many types of col- lars, both high and low. PN iadthis ata: gait De, ~ Atta RRR Sig 2 are ee ieee te Tene

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for FEBRUARY 1925 THESE ARE COSTUMES THAT FORECAST THE SPRING MODE (Above) The ensemble is extremely good chez Worth, too. Three tones of kasha cloth in beige and brown are used for this street costume. The frock has a blouse of natural kasha, with the two shades of brown. Blue serge, long neglected and always secretly cherished, is revived by Worth for this frock. It is trimmed with inset bands of the same fabric, stitched in herring-bone. Down the front ts a long jabot of white crépe de Chine. Po = Aue —? | (Left) Shown separately here are a frock and coat designed by Beer to be an ensemble. The simple frock is of dark green crépe de Chine to match the coat, which is an idea that will be good again this spring. ae * Dark green woolen fabric makes an extremely smart wrap to be worn with the dark green crépe de Chine frock shown with it, as an ensemble. This type of coat, long and slender with fulness toward the feet, will persist.

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on oo HARPER’S BAZAR RErnsavdo Vk PAQUIN An ensemble from Paquin is made of kasha cloth of a peculiar gray-green color. The frock is simple and beltless, the long coat is bordered with a straight border of gray fur that extends all the way from neck to hem. the long corset from bust to knees, which gave a woman a torso like the trunk of a tree. I believe much more firmly in the continued suppression of all waist-line, with its consequent concentration of decorative effect at the hem. Most of the leading designers agree with me. In addition to what the French call the ‘“‘amusement”’ of the lower part of the skirt, we shall still have some models “amused” in the front only, and others only in the back. The last minute sketches at the back of the book il- lustrate the latest examples of both. Next, as to colors. I am quite sure that black will still be a favorite choice of the smart woman, as of the woman who keeps to it from economy. They meet each other here, for once, on the field of the cloth of black. After black, all the lighter browns, particularly in several shades in the same costume. Beige, the overwhelming favorite of last summer, will not leave the stage, and its pale relation, grége, will be good. Every one is talking about the future of gray. It is here now, as far as that goes. The fabric collections are full of it, and the couturiers have all chosen it. I doubt, myself, whether it will achieve the popularity of its cousin, beige. It is not so flattering to modern make-up. When we all used white powder and pink rouge, gray was all very well; but modern powder is ocher, yellow, cream, mauve— anything but white; and rouge is raspberry, mul- berry, orange. Gray is an uncomplimentary addition to such a palette. Navy blue may take the place that Coudurier expects for it, but I do not think it is as smart as either black or the lighter browns. The prints will supply our real color. They will still be used for the light frocks and long blouses which accompany plain coats in the neces- sary ensembles; and the fragile flowery chiffons will make gowns that all of us will hope to be permitted by the weather to rejoice in. In addition to the fabric novelties mentioned at the beginning of this article, there will be our faithful satins, particularly the crépe varieties. Some houses will continue to use light-weight alpaca, both in silk and wool, while others intend to abandon it. Coudurier’s new alpacas are as supple and fine as crépe de Chine. (Concluded on page 134) 5 Se Sos er eee tet asi Re ee Ny ae ae — Bic

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for FEBRUARY 19 TWO NEW EVENING FROCKS FROM THE COLLECTION OF PATOU Bronze brown chiffon, a lovely color for evening, is used for this Patou frock. The bands on the skirt are the bronze heckle feathers of the cock. All sorts of remarkable and smart feather trimming is predicted for spring. Patou has another frock in black, with similar cock feather ornamentation; feathers are very smart. Another evening frock that is abbreviated and trivial in quantity, but extremely rich and important looking because of its fabric, is a new model in the Patou collection. The frock is of gold lace, with a salmon-rose band of ribbon around the bust-line, a device by which Paris is accustoming us to a higher waist. RY YNEVIO VV MAST 59 | | 1 |

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60 VERY OLD AMBER The Story of a Woman Who Didn’t Know What She Wanted By Mitprep CRAm Illustrated by John LaGatta HEN the New York house was finished and the Folsom gods had been set up by the firm of Strethlow and Giddings, Deco- rators, Bardet Folsom pardonably boasted that Greta ought to be happy. No one ever passed Bardet Folsom on the Avenue without being aware of him. According to the per- ception and the training of the passer-by, he was either the last, satisfactory word in highly specialized and inordinately subtle elegance, or he was one of the Vanderbilts. At any rate, Bardet Folsom was always taken for somebody in particular, whereas he was nothing more than an amiable man who had inherited a fortune. Not tall, slight, with a rakish face, he had a look in his jet black eyes that was like the side-slant of a dog divided between friendliness, suspicion, and a quizzical laziness. He carried himself erect, and yet he never seemed to shift out of a stroll. “Really,” Greta said, “the house is perfect.” Greta was thirty to Bardet Folsom’s forty-odd. She took his arm, leaned against him, pressed her lips against his shoulder. She was one of those women who offer brief, casual caresses charged with mystery and promise. And Bardet Folsom always found himself waiting, with a sort of excitement, almost an anguish, for more. He closed his eyes, brushed her hair with his chin, and said: “ Perfect. Yes. You ought to be happy.” She drew away suddenly and gave him a funny look. “Happy? Why, Bardy, I’m almost too happy. There’s such a thing as a shining monotony of happiness.” “Oh, my God,” Bardet thought. ‘What now?” “Tf you’re bored, Greta, we'll take a steamer to Sandaaken. They say it’s the most uncomfortable place on earth. Heat. Flies. Water buffaloes. Jungle. You’d be wretched. You'd like this house, New York, and even me. One week of Sandaaken and you’d be happy in the Bronx.” With a sigh, Greta came back out of her contem- plation of herself in the jungle to the cool, shining perfection of her drawing-room. “Rolf Travers,” she said lightly, “is a genius.” | a moment, Bardet Folsom could not get the connection. Then he remembered Strethlow and Giddings’ young man, the very earnest deco- rator who had seemed to occupy the center of the domestic landscape with rather too much of an eye HARPER’S out for Greta’s approval—Strethlow and Giddings’ very particular young man who had supervised the building inside and out, a tall, stoop-shouldered, dark-skinned, blue-eyed chap in tweeds. Of course Bardet Folsom remembered. “‘T thought we were done with him,” he remarked. “Not at all. We have only just begun.” Greta smiled in a maddening way she had, as if she cherished a secret. Trying not to stare at her, Bardet Folsom yet tried to fathom her expression. It might have meant anything. He reflected that he really knew nothing about Greta, beyond the fact that she was small, white-skinned, and that she pleased him with every unconsidered, graceful move she made. He had been too busy making her happy to inquire into her soul. Besides, he defended him- self, it was part of his own peculiar code to leave people’s souls alone. Even his wife’s soul was her own—to squander, if she chose. But Greta Folsom was not a profligate. Now, he knew, she was going to say something startling. She moved away from him, to the mantel, and rested one hand, a hand narrow and nervous, upon the shelf of black marble. © O, MY dear, we’re not through with Rolf Travers. Because I love him.” “‘Since when?” Folsom heard his own voice mak- ing that demand, detached and unnatural. And Greta said lightly: ‘Oh, a month ago. I don’t remember exactly when it happened, or how. He came here nearly every day. And little by little I found him out. He’s not what you might think. He isn’t the sort that goes about fascinating other men’s wives. He hasn’t a sophisticated bone in his body.” “T should hope not.” “Tf you laugh at me, Bardy,” Greta cried pas- sionately, ‘I shall hate you.” Ripe ree eran Sage

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“T'm not laughing,” he answered seriously. Greta, he saw, was shaken, and this frightened him more than anything she had actually said. Her lips were unsteady. Actually, her chin trembled, as if she were going to cry. Folsom suppressed a desire to pat her shoulder, to kiss her neck, to Whisper against her ear that it was all right, he would fix everything, she mustn’t worry. It wouldn’t do, he reminded himself, to play the fond old husband. It wouldn’t do at all to lose his sense of humor. For he knew Greta. She had loved him, in the beginning, had married him, and had lived with him for ten years because he gave her her head. She could be maddened by a tight ppl He let her go, and she ran free. I'm sorry, Bardy. You’ve been so good to me... .” Suddenly she came close again, a quiver- ng, palpitant thing, breathless with desire for something he had not been able to give her. “Don’t “Agatha stood a moment, poised, then swiftly let the wrap fall as petals curve away from a stamen. I want to start at the beginning Make things happen. Plan. Get Fight for him. Rolf has you see, Bardy? with some one. beaten. Start again. talent. He’s poor.” “How poor?” Folsom interrupted. He did not push her away, but he braced himself against the pressure of her slimness. “Oh, poor. He hasn’t a cent. And he’s proud. Won’t accept from his family. They’re the Rich- mond Travers. He’s had Yale. And a year in Paris. And here he is, stuck fast with a firm of decorators, like some silly half-baked student, when he could be building skyscrapers and palaces. Why, Bardy, he’s marvelous!” ARDY FOLSOM’S left eyebrow was elevated, and he stared down his nose at Greta’s flushed face with a look of peculiar comprehension and pity. He was conscious of being wofully empty and alone, And Greta saw the ambers.” and there was a gnawing around the edges of his heart. In his own remote way he suffered, for Greta was at the core of life, like a precious stone hidden away in a bitter fruit. But he was amused, too. Something hilarious, outraged, frantic, tried to get to the surface and explode. Greta and a slouching boy in tweeds, a chap who could talk seriously about Waterford glass by the hour! Greta, the restless, the critical, the arch little devil who knew life inside and out, made dewy-eyed and blushing by a man who called a certain shade of pea-green “precious”! Greta’s perverse little head against that shoulder! “Are you serious?” Folsom asked. mean this, Greta?” Even then he expected her to laugh at him, to turn her shoulder, crinkle her eyes and say: “Old silly!’ That boy!” But she did nothing of (Continued on page 113) “Do you

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62 HARPER’S BAZAR ’ TWO COSTUMES DRAPED AFTER THE CHARACTERISTIC ERTE MANNER | OF INTERESTING PANELS : A i) ‘a LV] An afternoon dress of red crépe marocain has black and gold cords on all its edges. A rectangular piece of the fabric folds upon itself and hangs like an apron from two cords passing through two black onyx rings inserted in the cloth of the dress. An unusually lovely blue velvet cape is embroidered in gold and black and white. The two ends of the front of the cape are crossed upon each other and the corners are fastened together in back with a cord and long heavy tassels. The sleeves are draped in one.

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jor FEBRUARY At 2 Ba The long ostrich feathers curl around the neck of this black satin evening cape to form the collar, and at the same time these feathers act as a fastening for the cape. A long straight panel is thrown over the right arm for a sleeve. WELCOME ERTE TO AMERICA to Observe and to Work RTE has left the seclusion of his monastic little villa in Sévres for the rough and tumble of a trip to Movieland. What will be the effect of all the clatter on our precise and gracious friend who always draws curtains across closed windows and locked doors before he begins a drawing because he fears the intrusion of ideas from without? It is hard to imagine what will happen to cloistered Erté, whose servants never make a sound and whose gorgeous orange cat, Mischa, sleeps all day on a black cushion. What will become of Erté in the city of backless houses in the wilderness, on the Lot? Something important, you may be sure of that. Erté is austere, precise, gracious, with the graciousness of courtly old Russia, but Erté is also much alive to new impressions and new influences. A true modern. We can look for splendid new things coming from his contact with the sharp new world. It will be a breathless experience for Erté, those eight months in Movieland, but it will make a new Erté. Not everything will please him. He is as ready to cut back the cheap and the vulgar as he is willing to concede the clear sharp vision of the modern artist. You may look for his unedited observations here, in Harper’s Bazar. Last Erté Has Consented to Come to America

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SS CURIOUSLY ORIGINAL SOUTHERN COSTUMES J DESIGNED BY ERTE Purple crépe de Chine is shirred in an extraordinary pattern to form a waistcoat-like blouse for an afternoon frock. The detachable sleeves are gathered on an orange ribbon tied in front and in back. The left side of a white crépe de Chine gown, designed by Erté to be worn at Palm Beach, is embroidered in orange. With the frock is worn a white straw hat trimmed with a long orange ribbon. Another frock designed for Palm Beach is white organdie, with bodice closely woven in green silk ribbon; the flowers that climb the green ribbon lattice are embroidered in shades of mauve. HARPER’S BAZAR "tk, a MY a Pai at LU LTT) eee

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for RPEBEUAEY 1925 CHARACTERISTIC ERTE DESIGNS FOR THE SOUTH AND EARLY SPRING A large square of white serge diagonally placed forms the bodice of a blue serge frock. The white serge is embroidered in purple and gold. Rectangles of white crépe make enormous sleeves for a gown of black crépe. The sleeves form pockets which are lined with green silk. An evening wrap of chinchilla has sleeves made of heavy silk fringe in shades of gray lighter and darker than the fur. The yoke and back of a gold fabric cape are shirred in circles. The sleeves are lined with black and white ostrich feathers. The long 1885 train of this white taffeta evening gown is of several shades of pink, arranged from light to dark. The slippers are covered with pearls and diamonds to match the buckle on the gown.

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SR 8 ee 66 The That Locke Has THE GREAT PAN DOLFO By WILLIAM Jf. Illustrated Henry Rale Tue First aANp SEconpD Parts Brier_ty ToLp: T A HOUSE party at the home of her friend, Lady Demeter, Paula Field met Sir Victor Pandolfo, a self-made man of obscure origin, egotistical, impetuous, overbearing, almost insolent at times, and yet she was curiously although reluctantly attracted to him. He was an inventor, working on a marvelous new metal which he was striving to perfect, and for which, so far, he had been unable to find a congruous and satisfactory name. Upon their return to London, acquaintance developed into a singular intimacy, and his atten- tions at once assumed alarming proportions. A clipping from an evening paper, together with Pandolfo’s card, later brought to Paula the astonish- ing news that his new metal had been named Paulinium, and with this news came a maddening sense of helplessness against the man himself. His presumption amounted almost to effrontery, and yet it was, after all, a tribute that she must accept gracefully. And then Paula and Lady Demeter went to Renes-les-Eaux, Lady Demeter to take the cure, and Paula to rest. A few days of quiet, and then, with much noise and blaring of motor horns, Sir Victor arrived, accompanied by a valet, a chauffeur, by ri }) igh Most Vividand Romantic Character Ever Drawn LOCKE and a strange, gaunt-looking secretary whom he introduced as Gregory Uglow. Paula spent two or three disquieting days. The man had such an unlimited capacity for giving, and she seemed strangely powerless to refuse. And then a botanist with whom they had made acquain- tance at Renes described a wild-flower of great beauty but very rare, and Paula expressed a careless desire to see it. Instantly Pandolfo promised to bring her one, in spite of the botanist’s insistence that he might search years to find one. Pandolfo was absent the following day, but late in the afternoon he drove up, his clothes muddy and torn, with the promised flowers grasped in his hand. A sudden spasm twisted his features. ‘“‘ Botaniz- ing on slippery precipices is a game for chamois, but not for human beings,” he said, and then, with a gasp his body swayed, and he fell forward. TuHiIRD PART T WAS nothing more serious than a couple of broken ribs and a sprained ankle. A fortnight’s absolute rest, said the doctor, and he would be on his feet again. “But, Mesdames,”’ said he, to the two ladies, who, HARPER’S BAZAR “But Paula didn’t want to marry Pandolfo. He was too dynamic; in spite of fascinating childishness, much more a force than a human being. He had laid grip on everything in her save her heart.” perforce, had to constitute themselves his female protectors, “if he will lie tranquil and submit to the kindly processes of Nature, all will be well. But, avec ce tempérament fougueux—” With his tempestuous temperament, anything might happen. They and his friend Monsieur Uglow must exercise their powers of restraint. A constitution of iron and a will of adamant alone had enabled him to walk the ten kilometers from the scene of his accident to the Petit Saint-Bernard where he had left the car. It was not a simple promenade, those mountains. He, a Savoyard himself, knew the mountains like his pocket, and recognized the spot where the accident had hap- pened. Only a madman would. have adventured down the declivity. It was almost perpendicular. And to descend it for what? To find a flower—the little orlaic. It was, one might say, beautiful. It was rare and only existent on precipitous slopes- Certainly not worth a man endangering his life. Sir Pandolfo, losing his footing, must have rolled about fifty feet. And all he had to say was that if he hadn’t rolled, he wouldn’t have found the orlate. How he managed to crawl up again defeated the doctor’s power of divination. He implored the ladies and Monsieur Uglow to keep him quiet Meanwhile he had telephoned for a trained nurse vee eins fi

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ee ae a eee? ee Se - 4 4 4 - 2 4 ~, ed ES “Sir Victor regarded Paula triumphantly. For a moment she felt herself the butt of all kinds of idiot destinies.” Here was another complication for an harassed woman. How could she treat with haughty disdain man who not only had risked his neck and his Teputation for infallibility in order to find her a tubbishy weed, but had traveled back to her with broken ribs, and, his romantic mission accomplished, fallen at her feet like any tin-covered knight out of Sir Thomas Malory? It was touching. Clara Demeter wept tears so fat and sentimental that re lest she should do her a mischief, fled from a Her eyes were dry, dry almost to : ing; but she felt the pathos of the idiotic ad- enture, all the same. Sheer humanity compelled tee Misit him, as soon as possible, under Clara’s me te wing. Ribs set, torso bandaged, and Pi! ow, Aix-les-Bains in attendance, he pro- chided _ comfort, ease, and happiness. Paula im gently for his exploit. So much, after all, for so little, win gtatify your slightest wish,” said he, “I willingly break every bone in my body.” (COULD lover say more? She knew that, in a ~ Sense, it was not rodomontade. It was sincere. foie oe implied a challenge to dare him to eeds in her service. From one point of view, she realized herself as the object of a passion anachronistically romantic. That sort of thing dated back to the guattrocenti Italians, when it was the mode for lovers to commit divine lunacies, such as freezing themselves to death, or sitting on glow- ing braziers in order to glorify their mistresses. She caught at a memory: Maurice Hewlett’s story of “‘Cecco and the Burning Coal.” The situation became grotesque. All the more grotesque because it was governed by an element of grim reality. She knew from her knowledge of the man’s will and self-exaltation that, were she to bid him fetch her a handful of snow from the summit of the highest peak of the Alpine range, whatever the unprofitable spot might be, she would get it—preserved in a Paulinium-lined thermos-flask of his own invention, with an inscribed plate on the outside. She admitted to herself her infinite faith in his integrity. Her talks with Gregory Uglow, the fervid ingenuous, would have swept away any lingering doubts. During the first few days of Pandalfo’s;lying-up,she:saw-much of.the-idolatrous young man. She learned the meager facts of his history. That he was of gentle birth she had realized from her first moment of speech with him. No vagrom hawking of wares about his parentage. He came of an old Suffolk family, as poor as church mice and almost as extinct in these hygienic days. His father, a widower, had been hard put to it to send him to Cambridge, with a science scholarship from his local grammar school, in 1913. The war came. The father and his two sons were drawn into the whirlpool, from which Gregory alone came out alive. His younger brother had been properly looked after and provided for at Eton by his uncle, Sir Ponsonby Uglow, a baronet of James the First’s creation. Sir Ponsonby had also died, however, during the war, leaving no issue, and his widow, apparently an extremely unpleasant woman, fol- lowed him soon after, having made a will whereby a horde of German relations were the beneficiaries. a HORRIBLE creature!” cried Lady Demeter when the story was told to her. “I knew all about her. A Boche. She used to go about her grounds flashing signals with an electric torch, until —who,was.the charming fellow who had the Eastern Command at the time?—you know—he played the banjo so wonderfully—and he married a girl called Muriel—Muriel—I’ll be forgetting my own name next. Anyhow he stepped (Continued on page 124)

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HARPER’S BAZAR 68 r > d lat | at | | : : | | 5 4 | | | ' } % | | } : | { j | [ 2 a a a ne ape a ee ay MOOELE OE POSE citi teins Sa daaid | | | M th i > = a A i "a e i Fa Cy ( Stace (- Moore ‘She rote tsof silberr : Ss in, pean ag seemed of the Music Box Revue~ paren BEES

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jor FEBRUARY 19 MODELE Of£FOsE oflef SE Oe (OG CAMSA Limbrotdered banana velvet ano gold guipure~

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HARPER’S BAZAR IT IS ONLY THE SPECTATOR OF SPORTS Who May Dress in this Brilliant and Decorative Manner i a il % ad ate! Rey piso 28 4 One of those naive bits of dress one picks up in out-of-the-way parts of the world, where primitive color still exists in the native costumes, is this Polish aacket of turkey-red calico, with a design of matching taffeta applied with yellow wool. White corded silk slip and black taffeta tie; from Mollie O’Hara. This costume has only just enough flavor of sports in it to be called a sports costume. There is a skirt and embroidered jumper of white French linen and an underblouse of handkerchief linen with loose peasant sleeves. The Russian embroidery is in red, blue, and yellow cross-stitch; Jay-Thor pe.

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for FEBRUARY 1925 THE TECHNIQUE OF SPORTS CLOTHE In Sports Clothes the Law's the Thing and One Had Better Not Play The Game Than Break the Most Minute of These Laws By MarRIeE clothes would seem to be a more difficult matter than to dress well for sports. Yet to judge by what we see on the links or bridle path, the latter is, for the vast majority of women, an almost insuperable task. Only a very small percentage of women who play a game really look smart in their clothes. Dress- ing well for most of the occasions of life is primarily a matter of taste; dressing well for sports is primarily a matter of knowledge. For evening one has only to follow the fashion and one’s taste (granting it is good); for sports there is practically only one correct type of costume for each game, and this one must wear or pay the penalty of being dowdy. One must have not only the knowledge of what is correct but the strength to follow it. The woman who makes becomingness the law and prettiness the standard in her clothes for every-day life is not likely to succeed in looking smart; but the sports- woman who follows this rule is unquestionably doomed to failure. To be “correct” is the only law one can safely follow in this field. The rules for sports clothes are based on a sound founda- tion of practicality, good sense, and serviceability; above all, one must look “dressed for the game’’—trig, well-groomed, sophisti- T=: DRESS correctly and smartly in street, house, or evening LYONS cated. A single curl pulled coquettishly forward on the cheek will ruin an otherwise perfect ensemble. Every hair has ‘its preordained place and it must be kept there if it has to be glued. It is in riding clothes that faults of taste are most conspicuous, perhaps, because here the laws are most rigid. For every time, place, and manner of riding there is a prescribed costume—for the park, for cross-country, for formal hunting, for informal hunting, for evening, for side-saddle, for cross-saddle. All of these habits have been described, to the last button, dozens of times in the best fashion publications, and any first-class habit maker is able to give accurate and correct information. Yet one hour in Central Park will reveal unbelievable atrocities—black velvet jockey caps or tams and Georgette blouses revealing lingerie ribbons, not to mention minor monstrosities such as big-checked suits, tricorns, and coats far too short and flaring. The correct costumes for golf, tennis, polo, flying, fishing, and shooting are shown and described in the following pages. Those who are in any doubt as to the correct thing to wear for these sports might well follow these models exactly; those who have played the games long enough to have an unamateurish atti- tude will know how to use these suggestions to obtain variations. It is easier for a camel to enter a needle’s eye than for one who breaks the law of correct sports clothes to look smart. The fol- lowing pages show correct costumes for participant and spectator.

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HARPER’S BAZAR SMART GOLF CLOTHES HAVE A TECHNIQUE ALMOST AS EXACTING AS RIDING HABITS Two golf costumes from KNOX One of the most practical and correct costumes for spring golf is a knitted jacket-suit. This one is of white wool with a touch of color on pockets and collar—here dark blue. A wonderful coat to slip on after the game is of soft, white, fleece-like wool striped in dark blue. A felt hat which will take al- most any shape gives a last chic touch. A costume consisting of a brown cloth skirt and a matching sweater (wool with a thread of silk), both outlined with bands of suéde in a darker shade, is the perfection of practicality and good taste for golf. The skirt is in two pieces. The back piece laps far over the front but is not attached to it, thus insuring the utmost freedom of motion.

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Mlle. Lenglen’s tennis dress is now available in many shades of linen—or in kasha. It is sleeve- less, collarless, and cut with a long, close-fitting bodice which dovetails into the circular skirt. If one fears the sun, a very fine, thin, white Chanel sweater, with high collar and long sleeves, may be worn beneath this most practical of tennis dresses; from Spalding. Here is an ombré (shaded) golf suit of a thin, knitted fabric like woolen underwear. It shades from dark green stripes on white to light green stripes at the top of skirt and blouse. Collar and cuffs are of green crépe de Chine. It may be had in many colors. The Knox hat has a brim wider in front than in back, turning sharply up. Dress from Spalding. IN THE For the Opening of the Golf Season Knitted Wear is Preferred SPORTS ARE AS EXIGEANT OF PHYSICAL FORM MATTER OF CLOTHES FORM AS A practical sports dress, equally good for tennis or golf, is made of men’s silk shirting in powder blue. The skirt is plaited at the side, to give freedom in running or swinging the stick, and at the Shoulders in back is an un- stitched plait to allow for the swing of the arms. It is wash- able and sun proof and has the necessary pockets; from Spalding. For the woman who dreads a sunburn on the courts is provided a smart visor and a sheer white sweater with high collar and long sleeves; from Spalding.

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FOR THE WOMAN WHO WANTS TO BE IN THE PICTURE YET OUT OF THE GAME These Costumes Hit the Right Degree of Sportsmanship In appearance there is little difference between the dress in which one plays the game and that in which one watches it, but the spectator’s costume lacks the practical details of the actual sports dress. This Alexandre model is of peach-colored crépe with a long blouse having a matching monogram at the bottom; from the S ports Shop for W omen. Nothing will be better for the spring than beige or natural kasha. For sports wear it is unequaled. This Goupy dress is of the tan kasha, with the excessively long bodice above the tiny, plaited skirt which is so smart now. It has collar, cuffs, and belt fastening through little buckles. An excellent dress for the races; from Jay-Thorpe. (Below) The knitted costume has taken a new lease on life since Chanel’s great interestinit. Here is a Molyneux dress of knitted silk in shades of gray, giving a mottled effect. It is form-fitting and has that tight expression across the back that is so smart at present. The ruffles are in gun-metal gray crépe de Chine; from the Sports Shop for Women. HARPER’S BAZAR hy) fh if / Maal Ak il, Wh tp Kt - el ——— wr cdudttndthnetwharoc dred Rea Minatsave, vi: é The Mary Taylor coat above is made of a Rodier fabric—a rough, pebbled plaid with beige as a background and henna and black for the stripes. The fur is a cream-colored Belgian hare. This is an excellent coal for any sort of sports wear, lo slip on after the game or for the spec- talor. The little hat should be in a quiet color, beige or henna; from Mardon. The dress above is for actually playing the game, though the spectator would also be smartly dressed in it. It is of powder blue silk men’s shirting, with a tiny, self-colored figure. It has the short sleeves, open neck, and plaited skirt demanded of the -practical tennis dress. The buckle is a large dark blue affair; from the Sports Shop for W omen.

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for FEBRUARY 1925 > Another study in elimination by Chanel ee ; a ae —at the right. It is of yellow and | aes - Shion a brown silk and wool knitted in a shell | I \ il pattern with a brown crépe de Chine for || i} \ ‘| _ trim and slip. These knitted tunic |} dresses, particularly in this shell pat- | tern with an all-over mottled effect, al- most like a lizard-skin, are very good; from the Grande Maison de Blanc. The dress at the right is another of Bit Chanel’s little masterpieces in sports wear. It is of wool knitted in a shell pattern, shading from cream to dark brown and trimmed with brown suéde. Each season shows a change in the style of sports suit that is chic. This season matching sweater and skirt costumes are smart; from Jay-Thorpe. Another excellent motor or all-sports wear coat is that below which, like so many dresses this year, is of a knitted fabric. It is striped in gray, black, brown, and yellow, has collar and cuffs of vellow and brown Belgian hare, and one large pocket al the right front. Separate coats look better when they cover the hem of the skirt; Jay-Thorpe. Chanel is a master of the little dress that seems to be nothing at all and yet is so different from what any one else can do with the same simple means. The SUCH SEMI-DECORATIVE model at the top is of tobacco brown jersey cloth with a roll collar, a loose, ¢ circular apron front and groups of { SEMI-PRACTICAL triangular shaped, fine, corrugated plaiting; imported by Hattie Carnegie. COSTUMES AS THESE ARE It is sometimes possible to wear these so-called sports dresses in town, so vague is the line that separates one genre from another. This particular Lelong model (above) in dark red kasha with its long tunic and wide patent-leather belt would Fe be equally correct for town or country wear. The accessories must be as sim- ble as the dress; Sports Shop for W omen. EXCEEDINGLY SMART | For the Spectator | { At Every Sort of Sport

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76 FOR THE ACTUAL IN No Single Ts THE MORE MANLY Touch of Femininity Permitted PARTICIPANT SPORTS ap UN ae ~ wim If for polo one omits the sleeveless coat as a concession to the weather, one is dressed in white doeskin riding breeches, a short-sleeved shirt, the usual polo helmet, a wide, white linen thread belt, and black boots. From Abercrombie and Fitch. For boxing—and it is amazing how much of this strenuous sport is going on in the gym- nasiums where women go regularly to lose that extra pound of flesh—the accepted uniform is quilted black silk trunks, a thin, dark jersey, and a leather mask to prevent disfiguring accidents. From Alex Taylor. The shooting costume consists of breeches on the same order as riding breeches but less full and without the leather reinforcements; a coat much shorter than a riding- coat, having double pockets (a small one superimposed on a large one), a tight belt at the normal waist-line, and a leather reinforcement on the right shoulder; a flannel or linen shirt and a diagonal-striped tie; high brown water proof laced boots; and a rough felt hat with a bright pheasant feather. This suit is of gray Scotch tweed with a brown plaid. From Abercrombie and Fitch.

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for FEBRUARY 1925 THE LAWS OF DRESS FOR THE MORE STRENUOUS SPORTS Are as Rigorous as the Rules of the Games Themselves ra ee ee ee ee ee For the fishing suit tweed and corduroy are good. It 1s cut like the shooting suit but without the double pockets. With it boots of brown Norwegian calf, with golf hose rolled down over the tops, and a whipcord hat with a brim pulled down in front may be worn. From Aber- crombie-and Fitch. For fencing may be worn a circular black velvet skirt, a thin white jersey, a plastron of quilted crash with the heart on the right (its technical place in fencing), white padded kid gauntlets, mask, and low shoes with chamois soles. From Alex Taylor. For the habitual aviator a practical costume is necessary. This one is of red-brown shiny leather lined with cravanetted gabardine in khaki color. The breeches, cut Somewhat like riding breeches, button over the short, laced boots. Collar and cuffs of vici kid on the coat, boots, helmet, and gauntlet’ gloves are all in beige leather as u contrast to the red brown of the suit. The gauntlets are fleece-lined and goggles are worn. The knitted scarf is of sky-blue and white wool, a decorative touch to @ practical costume. From Abercrombie and Fitch.

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HARPER’S BAZAR “Ina week Hildegarde could circle the rose gar- den six times without pausing for breath.” SPRING FLOW’RETS Need We Say This is a Story Adelaide!” Languidly, up from her book, looked Mrs. Peabody. ““So,”’ she said, without emotion, “‘they are.” “What a miracle is each spring!” he called, raptly. “Does it not inspire you to see how Nature carries on?” “Not a bit.” He stood gazing out into the twilight over his rose garden which stretched away to his willow- bordered lake—‘‘a little Versailles in the heart of Newport,” a society reporter had called Peabody Manor, and aptly. “ Adelaide.” “Yes, James?” “A pair of bluebirds have built a nest in the honeysuckle. I saw four eggs there to-day. there will be little ones.” “Don’t be sentimental.” She was a long, cool- looking woman, of, possi- bly, thirty, with a large, pale figure and a small, precise mouth. Behind her back Adelaide Pea- body had been called “the North Pole of Beacon Street’; a visiting English earl had minted that mot; no one. in Boston society would have ven- tured upon even so mild an irreverence toward one of the James Peabodys. For she, too, was a Pea- body born, and had mar- ried her cousin. That a Peabody could marry any- body but a Peabody had never, for even a fleeting moment, occurred to either of them. With no apparent rele- vance, Mr. Peabody turned from the window and observed feelingly: ‘SG he cried, “the spring daffodils are out, Soon of Devastating Satire RicHARD CONNELL By Ralph Barton Drawings by “We've been married six years, now, Adelaide.” “‘T shouldn’t wonder,” was all she said. “Six years,” he repeated, “and we haven’t—” She put down her book with a soupgon of impa- tience. “Kindly desist from bringing up that topic again, James,” she said. “It bores me.” “But, Adelaide, our debt to posterity,” he started to say. “Our debt to posicrity?” she repeated, with chill mockery. ‘‘ How tiresome you are to-night, James.” “The Peabodys,” he stated, “always pay their debts.” “T am unaware that I have incurred any debt to posterity,” she remarked. “Suppose our parents had felt that way?” he argued with quiet logic. ‘‘Where should we be?” “An amusing speculation,” she rejoined. “But one not germane to the present issue. Our parents lived in an unenlightened age, marked by a dis- tressing inevitability of offspring. While we—” her slender, well-kept hands made a delicate gesture. He faced her, and his tenor voice had an edge on it. “Have you not the slightest vestige of a maternal instinct?” he demanded. “James! Don’t be common!” He flushed; against this imputation he had never been able to develop adequate repartee. “The Cabots have children,” was all he could think of to say. “The Frothinghams have children. The Saltonstalls have—” She checked him by making a wry moue. “Cease your litany, James,” she said, “before you get to the Cohens and the Muldoons. The bio- logical eccentricities of other people do not con- cern me. Let us termi- nate this wearisome and fruitless discussion once and for all. Surely you are au courant with my position in ‘regard to it.” He bowed stiffly. “T should be. You have stated it with fre- quency and adequacy,” he said, and sadness was in his voice and his face. “But, don’t you see, Adelaide, a son would carry on our name. Re- member since _ brother Eliot died, I am the last of the Peabodys.” “There are plenty of other Peabody. families,” she remarked icily. “In Boston, alone, for eX ample—”’ He raised his chin in gesture of scorn. ; “T am aware of theif “““ Adelaide,’ said Mr. Peabody, ‘there is something I must say to you.’” existence,” he said, “with- pHa bre

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for FEBRUARY 1925 “Now and then a white-clad, white-capped nurse emerged on silent feet, and in answer to Mr. Peabody’s questioning glance murmured—‘ Not yet.’”’ out being impressed by it. I mean we are the last of the real Peabodys. It has always been a great and honorable name. To let it expire would be to fail in our duty to our country. The world needs People like us, Adelaide. There are not many of x our sort left, you know. We should carry on. We owe—” “A debt to posterity,” she finished. ‘That’s twice in one evening. I think you’d better run along and play billiards. But before you go, let me reiterate; I do not want children.” One son would be enough,” he said, persuasively. Not even one,” she said, firmly. «But why, Adelaide?” fe The idea fails to intrigue me,” she answered. For one thing, there’s my health. You know how delicate I am, James.” “One would not suspect it from your golf game,” he murmured. She ignored this. You know,” she pursued, “what a highly or- ganized and sensitive nervous system I have. You know, for example, how the odor of cauliflower makes me suffer. I’m not the buxom, red-cheeked type like Priscilla Cabot, nor the tanned, outdoor ype, like Cornelia Frothingham. That, I think, is obvious. I am what I am.” ied you are,” he said, a shade gloomily. Do you regret it?” “ye,” no, my dear,” he answered, contritely. “any can’t help being what you are—that is—I ‘An to say—well, anyhow, we do owe a debt—” That’s three times in one evening,” she inter- ga “Heavens!’’ She had glanced at her plati- Wrist watch, and her face showed concern. « Nearly eight o’clock. I must tuck in Hildegarde.” “How is Hildegarde?”’ asked Mr. Peabody. “I haven’t seen her since luncheon.” Mrs. Peahody paused on her way to the door, and her white brow showed traceries of worry. “At tea,” she said, ‘‘Hildegarde toyed with her fifth piece of toast.” Mr. Peabody looked more grave than he had at any time during the earlier discussion. “Qdd!” he said. ‘Her appetite is usually so good. Did she drink her cream?” “Oh, yes.” He brightened. “‘ And did she have a good nap?” “Fairly good,’’ Mrs. Peabody replied, ‘‘but from the way she moved in her sleep I fear she was troubled in her dreams.” He grew grave again. “T think,” said Mrs. Peabody, ‘that the twitter- ing of those wretched bluebirds in the honeysuckle may have disturbed her. Well, au revoir, James. I must hurry to her now.” She rustled from the room. ITH stern decisiveness Mr. Peabody pressed a bell. To the butler who appeared, he said: ‘*Grosvenor.” “Vea ae.” “Speak to the head gardener and tell him to have one of the under-gardeners take that bird’s nest out of the honeysuckle on the pergola. They annoy Hildegarde.”’ The butler inclined a sympathetic head. ““Yes, sir. At once, sir.” Hildegarde Peabody’s room was the sunniest of all the rooms in Peabody Manor. Its walls were mauve in tint, its furnishings a tranquil light green, its Chinese rug, mulberry, thick, soft. Here Hildegarde held her court, regally, as befitted a reigning sovereign. Here she accepted, complacently, as something properly her due, the tender care lavished on her by Mr. and Mrs. Pea- body. It was not too much to say that the great household was run with a single eye to the comfort and convenience of Hildegarde. More than one footman had been cast into the exterior darkness because she did not take a fancy to him. Guests whom she did not like were never asked there again. She could not abide Chopin; his notes never echoed from the music room. Orchids made her sneeze; no orchid ever graced Peabody Manor. She liked the feel of black velvet; Mrs. Peabody, though it involved a certain amount of martyrdom, wore only black velvet. The Peabodys never grudged any sacrifice they felt called upon to make for Hilde- garde, for she was an aristocrat, one of the few survivors of a very old and very proud race, the race of pugs. It is a vanishing race, the race of pugs. Like the American Indian it is the certain victim of civiliza- tion. Not that the analogy is perfect, for the pug was never primitive nor savage; indeed, it has ever been the most refined of living things. Through the centuries the pug has grown steadily more and more refined, until, from sheer excéss of refinement, it seems doomed to fade out, gradually, gracefully, like the scent of old lavender. Like the mid- Victorian gentility she symbolized, the pug. the Peabodys feared, must inevitably succumb. Hildegarde herself was a perfect pug, a perfect flower of mid-Victorianism, (Continued on page 98)

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HARPER’S BAZAR : _ a wscese scvese VIONNET ’ / Vite C loth Dress er ee tppligue wilh purr clot/r

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y th ee a“ ~

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HARPER’S BAZAR Pincess San Faustino AONO AVAS Mis Yane Campbell of New York

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for FEBRUARY 1925 @onte OErose CHANTAL The Princess Beloselsky in a costume from Chantal, designed for Cannes. It is an afternoon ensemble of copper-colored cloth, with a yellow chiffon waist- coat with diamond buttons, worn. with a little coat of orange-colored chiffon. A CONVERSATION ABOUT SOUTHERN CLOTHES In Spite of the Paris Telephone Service, Baron de Meyer Talks Over the Wire to Several Matsons de Couture 18 rue Vaneau, Paris. “YES, Mademoiselle Chantal, I am telephon- ing from my studio in the Rue de Sévres. ‘ I want to tell you that Princess Beloselsky is here. I am photographing her in your new dresses. Yes, she is very enthusiastic about your work, and assures me there is no one like you. It’s she who suggested my ringing you up to tell you myself how much I liked your gowns. Yes, she is very graceful, poses very well and is Very patient. What gowns she brought? Well, to Start With, she posed in a mauve net evening gown Which has large bunches of multicolored flowers embroidered on it in floss silk. I particularly ap- _e her having brought the mauve net scarf saad bouquets embroidered at each end. Such or are so useful for posing. “tha next things the Princess wore were the you designed for Cannes—first, the after- a ensemble of copper-colored cloth. I didn’t . yeeraph the coat, only the skirt combined with Mght yellow chiffon waistcoat with diamond About Their Southern Collections buttons, and the charming little orange chiffon coatee. It’s all so transparent, airy and delight- ful, so suitable pour le midi. Yes, I shall send the photograph for publication in Harper’s Bazar. Chiffon “‘sports clothes” are among the newest ideas for the South I’ve come across so far. “‘T also consider your white Georgette gown, with white cloth bands applied, very new, particularly the bow-like effect low down in front, made of bands of the white cloth. Cloth alone looks heavy, while combined with Georgette it takes on a spring-like appearance. “Not at all! Your models are very good. You will go far. I know you told me you only opened last August at 4 Rue de Mondovie. I wish you all success. “No, I can’t to-day—I have to remain at my studio. I have one sitting after another, five or six of them. Princess Beloselsky laughingly sug- gested to me that after having found out from each of my sitters who had made her gowns I should tele- phone to each maison de couture to give them my impression. It’s some idea, and I might do it, but to get a number from the /éléphoniste is, nowadays, such a job that I’d be wasting my time and might be keeping my next sitter waiting . . .” (Here we were cut off.) There is a ring at the doorbell. Addison, my next “victim.” An hour later .. . Question: Will you tell me, Mrs. Addison, who made this ravishing white crépe gown for you? It’s a perfect dream. Answer: Myrbor. “. . . Donnez moi le Central 03.54 Myrbor. Is this la Maison Myrbor? This is Baron de Meyer speaking. Oh, I am sorry Madame Cuttoli is away. It’s Madame la Directrice? Perfectly—it will do just as well. Will you kindly tell Madame Cuttoli that Mrs. Addison is here, being photographed by me in a lovely gown which she says was made at your establishment? (Concluded on page 102) Evidently Mrs.

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HARPER’S

<a MOOELE Ot PosE CHA NTAL

Puncess “Peloselsky 4 Vite C lotr on / ] dite Georgelle

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? for FEBRUARY 19 CHANTAL ky th B ouguels Belosels CL Lut ie wv 55 loan A CE Pun +f of Cmbroidered Hower | ou cy

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HARPER’S BAZAR APHORISMS By Baron DE MEYER The Adornment of Women Has Become One of the Fine Arts Few Women, However, are Fine Artists , "{ WOMEN are more often clothed than dressed. Dis- crimination in one’s style of dress is as important as it is in the accepted forms of art. “ BY the time trimmings, termed pretty, cute, or cunning, are discarded, a woman generally attains beauty of line, in which alone harmony resides. * THE moods of fashion produce harmonies sometimes; the moods of nature, always. Harmony in dress is the result of a perfect ensemble, in which no detail predominates at the expense of another. {| BY a profane and frivolous interpretation of psychic matters moods are furthered which bring the human being into better harmony with nature. § BY successfully doing so, a woman often achieves the miracle of being in harmony with her fellow creatures. | IT requires years of culture to achieve a vision. Young women, therefore, rarely achieve perfection in dress. Youth runs riot. § ABSENCE of cosmetics—natural skin, gray lips, dull eyes are the ruin of even the smartest ensemble. Too much make-up may be vulgar, yet none at all is worse. It leaves the picture unfinished. TWENTY-FIVE years ago—as foundation: batiste, lace, ribbons, a chemise, satin corsets, more batiste, more lace, more ribbons, a “cache” corset; veiling, yet revealing this fussy finery, a bodice. Accumulation—versus 1925, elimina- tion. To-day—a yard of chiffon, shoulder-straps, a crépe slip, and a fur wrap. “ ON color—the selection of color in woman’s dress should be ruled by season, climate, light, and country, not by the whim of one’s couturier. Warm shades in winter clothes warm the body, one’s outlook on life, and maybe one’s heart. {| BLACK has, nowadays, been relegated and is made use of for serviceable purposes. Of black one might quote the well- known fairy-tale—Thou wert the fairest, lady queen; Snow

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for FEBRUARY 1925 87

—

DEMELYERL = wo N

4 ite, White is fairest now, I ween.” For white is worn by young Tg ‘4 i, / jj and old, in summer, winter, spring, and fall. eg 4 / ’ / ee » ‘\ i 4 ALMOND GREEN may be 4a la mode in January, but \\' only really looks well worn in spring. = - \ 4 RED is a popular shade, except when associated with lA \J politics. A woman in red collects the homage of the many. N | lo {| GRAY, essentiaily distinguished, is either intensely smart | or very dowdy—a silvery, flimsy and vaporous dance frock or the “best silk dress”’ of the family housekeeper. {| YELLOW, said Mr. Worth in the distant ’seventies, is a color for blondes: an audacious statement then, an established fact now. a ill

§] VIOLET, a shade discredited by dowagers and disdained ) AR : by young matrons, has lost its reputation, slowly regaining it apne Zi eX » i by children’s clothes. Extremes meet. ae St | Vp . : ; BY SS {| ROSE, once upon a time the attribute of youth, now sug- WEL ay YY gests slim, silver-haired maturity, rouge, patches of the ia

eighteenth century and pastels of Latour and Largilliére.

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HARPER’S BAZAR Nir, Chddison 8 / / hile C VE: with é woheoide vd iz aw

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for FPEBRUARKY 92:5 pm SE Og! Lovin WR ik AE PHILIPPE et GASTON ?o— Crepe with, Plounces of Figured Ny Orv

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A WORTHY QUITTANCE That Solved the Problem of Two Men And a Beautiful Woman By E. PHI.uips

“<7 am not inclined to trust you,’ Madame rejoined ‘Now, please listen, both of you. You coolly. Illustrated by Marshall Frantz r i “HERE was neither pomp nor circumstance connected with the coming of Andrew Sarle to the Villa Sabatin. He climbed the flower- bordered avenue which turned and twisted through a labyrinth of orange trees and sweet-smelling shrubs, with a knapsack on his back, dust-covered from head to foot. When he presented himself at the front door, William, the most discreet and understanding of butlers, was on the point of stretching out his arm to indicate the servants’ and mendicants’ approach to the house, when he paused. This shabby stranger had at least 2 manner. “T desire to see Madame,” he announced. “Ts she within?” “‘Madame is within, but she receives very sel- dom,” William replied. “You have, perhaps, an appointment?” “T have,” was the calm rejoinder. ‘“ Madame has sent forme. My name is Andrew Sarle.” William compromised in the matter by showing the visitor into a small morning room, cut off from the more elaborate reception rooms. He disap- peared to make his announcement and returned again within a few minutes. Providence and in- stinct had saved him from a distressing blunder. once took an oath—private quarrels between members of our society were to be adjudicated by me. 99? That oath you have probably both forgotten.

OrpPENHEIM “Madame trusts that you are not pressed for time, sir,”’ he confided, ‘as she finds your call early. She can see you in an hour’s time. Mean- while, she suggests, as you are doubtless on a walking tour, that you might care for a wash and some refreshment.” The visitor unslung his knapsack. “More than anything else in the world,” he confessed, “I should like a bath.” “Tf you will follow me, sir,” William invited, “T will show you a bathroom on the first floor. One of my young men will be glad to look after you.” “TI require no valet,” was the curt reply. “My wardrobe, such as it is, is on my back. The bath- room and towels are all I desire.” “And afterwards?” “Some coffee that is fit to drink would be a change. My breakfast was, I admit, scanty. . . .” Andrew Sarle was still shabby when he descended half an hour later, but he was, at least, clean and, with the removal of the dust and without the indignity of the knapsack on his shoulders, had regained something of that distinction which had belonged to him in former days. He wandered round the cool and flower-perfumed apartments HARPER’S BAZAR

NSE Pe ae aes ed ee a eee

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for FEBRUARY 1925 “hes fi ; nanty ERO ant AIR aC “** Pauline,’ said Madame, ‘you are in this matter. Have you anything o the ground floor, until out on the piazza he found a small table set for one with an electric heater by the side. A footman served him silently with delicious coffee, rolls and butter, and an Unexpected omelet. He ate with deliberate and self-respecting con- cealment of the fact that he was almost starving. When he had finished he lit a cigaret from the box which the man handed to him, and strolled to the farther end of the terrace. He leaned over among ¢ climbing roses and looked out, seawards. The Strained look had passed in some measure from his ong, oval face. His mouth was at rest, his eyes taking their pleasure. It was apparent that in drew Sarle there was something of the soul of an artist. So he was when Claire came down and found all He turned his head at the sound of her light iPS: She smiled a welcome. Madame desired me to say that she would be 0 in a few minutes,” she explained. ‘She does tot usually rise before eleven.” concerned to say?’” “Tt is I who should apologize for the earliness of my visit,” Sarle replied. “I fear that I have lost count of the conventions. I have been walking day after day and when I arrived—well, I declared myself.” She smiled. “You have come a long distance?” she asked. ““A very long distance, indeed,” he answered gravely. ‘“‘Sometimes it seems to me that I was born walking, always with a pack upon my shoulders. One gets to feel like that in time.” She looked at him curiously, wondering how much he had spoken allegorically. His face, in its way, was very attractive, with its lines of suffering and its pallor only faintly obliterated by the marks of the sun. “T must not be inquisitive, but are you an old friend of Madame’s?” Claire inquired. “T am an old friend and an unfortunate one,” he told her. “T am sorry to hear that,” she said. “Perhaps the time has arrived for a change. They call all this country, you know, from here to Monte Carlo, ‘the land of good fortune.’” “T fear,” he remarked, with a little smile, “that it will not help me. I have been a gambler but not at the gambling tables. . . . Iamnot keeping you, I trust?” He glanced at her questioningly. She was wear- ing a walking costume of dark green linen, with a small Napoleonic hat, thick shoes, and she carried a stick. Around her several dogs were waiting im- patiently. She was, as a matter of fact, on her way across the road to Cardinge’s chateau-farm. From her window she had seen him among the vines. “T was just going across to a farm near here,” she explained. “At this time of the year, when we are interested, we go every day to see how the vines are looking. It is a great friend of Madame’s who lives close here—Mr. Hugh Cardinge. You know him, perhaps? ”’ “Cardinge!” he repeated reminiscently. “ Yes,” he admitted, “I knew (Continued on page 104)

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HARPER’S BAZAR ‘mm eli ot {SATS “TARR OMRREER Mm ~= : MARMON The popular type of closed car is shown in this new Marmon brougham-coupé, with its fine lines and convenient four doors. CADILLAC This interior view of a new Marmon shows its unusually wide road vision. It also il- lustrates the easily reached levers, the all-wood steering wheel, and instrument board equipment, which has been handsomely set against @ satin silver mat background. An important feature, which adds to the comfort and dis- tinction of this Cadillac four- passenger phaeton, is_ the hinged rear cowl on which a windshield is mounted. The smart new body, by Brunn, is painted in cream and black and upholstered in black. MARMON pee uy als THE NEW TOWN CARS ARE MARVELS OF CONVENIENCE AND LUXURY

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for FEBRUARY 1925

Yo\i* loo = 7T ' AD) 8 lon — 2 ( \ Aig | joo 2 (yA If Pn " “g ne | mn \ t 10] Be. <i 5 i) \' y | & (0) \ {| \ i) ~\ \|

LINCOLN The new Lincoln cabriolet sedan is distinguished by a sloping wind- shield, a sun visor, and a rear quarter which may be folded down.

LAC LOCOMOBILE wv Like all new Locomobiles this Seven passengers, including ly car, which was designed by Le the driver, may be accommo- il- Baron for Mrs. George L. dated in this Locomobile, the ed Dickson, has four-wheel comfort and luxury of which ng brakes. This type may be are illustrated in this interior rd converted in a moment from a view. The front compart- en formal to an informal motor- ment is upholstered in leather a car by lowering the glass par- and the rear in fabric of ex- d. tition between front and rear. ceptional beauty and quality.

LOCOMOBILE DISTINGUISHED NEW AMERICAN MOTOR-CARS

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HARPER’S BAZAR

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for FEBRUARY 1925 a

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Brown or red lizard handk on French umbrella of match- ing silk. Wood rod; handle twenty-six inches; price $25.00. NY of the articles photographed on this page may be _ purchased through Harper's Bazar. In writing state article de sired and make out check to Harper’s Bazar Shopping Service to cover cost. Ad dress to 119 West 4oth Street, New York City. ACCESSORIES AND NECESSITIES One of the little “over night’? bags that Parts introduced this season is of vermilion red leather made with a “ gate frame’ of metal, thirteen inches by nine inches. The price 1s $26.50. A “sac du jour,” of the sort that one can shop with comfortably and smartly. Of red pin seal, lined with red moiré, it has a brass lock and key. Eight inches by twelve inches; price $12.50. Bronze patent-leather flecked with gold is ornamented with bronzed steel nail heads. Very new and smart and from Paris. Eight and one-half inches by six. Price $39.50 AND FOR EVERY-DAY USE FOR HARPER’S BAZAR Photographs by Paul Outerbridge, Jr. Cerise leather, with Algerian motifs in black and gold. Lined with moiré, eight and @ half by six inches; price $25.00. A new vanity case from a fa- mous beauty specialist has @ complete store of toilette and beauty needs, enough for a trip abroad. Made in a_ smarl case of black seal, with mirror and compartment. Price $75- TRAVEL

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op FEBRUA RY hearty, old-fashioned soup made better The soup when you're hungry! CAMDEN, Ni J., US € wingers, wae Look for the Red-and-White Label Campbells The soup to serve frequently as your ncheon or supper. The soup as the hearty prelude to a substantial dinner Campbell's Vegetable Soup is such delicious food, in such generous measure that it is an indispensable part of the pantry supply, ready to do instant service for so many and such different meals. It contains fifteen tempting vege- tables, invigorating beef broth, cereals, fresh herbs and dainty seasoning, blended by Campbell's chefs—the most skilful makers of fine soup in the world! Are you supplied?

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98 ¢ tein 8 Blaine A CREATIVE HOUSE **oAvenue”’ —a new Stein & Blaine three-piece idea for Spring. FURRIERS ~ DRESSMAKERS ~ TAILORS 13 and 15 West 5Tth Street New York HARPER’S BAZAR SPRING FLOW’RETS Richard Connell’s Story (Continued from page 79) the ideal woman of the period; she did nothing. could do nothing, wished to do nothing—except be cared for. Her capacity for being cared for was infinite. Priscilla Cabot and Cornelia Frothingham came in for tea next day. “How plump Hildegarde 1s getting,’”’ ob- served Mrs. Cabot. “Plump? Fat is the word,” said Mrs. Frothingham. Hildegarde, dozing on a plush cushion near the fireplace, raised a disdainful eyelid. That she was the-center of interest did not surprise her; it was no more than her prerogative. “Ves,” lamented Mrs. Peabody, “she has put on weight. But what can one do? She simply will not exercise, and she adores sweets. She refuses to take her walk twice round the rose garden and she demands, simply demands, an extra portion of cream for break- fast.” “Why don’t you make her exercise? ’’ asked Mrs. Cabot “Make her?” Mrs. Peabody’s face indi- cated that she considered that this suggestion verged on the brutal. ‘My dear Priscilla, if I were to attempt to coerce Hildegarde she would resent it, poignantly.” “T’d make her,”’ declared Mrs. Cabot. “T’m afraid you would,”’ said Mrs. Peabody. “But I sha’n’t. I couldn’t bear to.” “T’d chase her round the garden till she ran off five pounds,” asseverated Mrs. Cabot, with conviction. “If you could have heard how pathetically the poor dear panted the last time she walked around only once, you wouldn’t say that,” returned Mrs. Peabody. “I assure you I rushed for her smelling salts. I thought she was going to faint.” “T’d cut off her cream, that’s what I'd do,” Mrs. Cabot said. “No, Priscilla, I’m sure you wouldn't. You simply couldn’t,” Mrs. Peabody said “When she looks up at me with those plead- ing eyes, I car refuse her nothing; and she knows it. Nor could you, nor could any one with a heart in his or her bosom.” “Tt’s only for her own good,” said Mrs. Cabot. ‘‘She’ll simply lie there and grow and grow and grow until she bursts. Why, she can’t wag her tail without puffing. She’s in awfully poor condition. She couldn’t have pups. Why, if you wanted her to have them—” Mrs. Peabody checked her guest. “Please stop, Priscilla,” she said. “TI as- sure you I have no such wish. Moreover, I cannot permit the discussion of such matters in Hildegarde’s presence. Can’t you see that she is perfectly cognizant of every word you say?” “Clever girl,” commented Mrs. Cabot. Mrs. Peabody frowned; she disliked flippancy. “T cannot but think,” spoke up Mrs. Frothingham, “that Hildegarde would make an excellent match for Romeo.” “Who, pray,” Mrs. Peabody inquired, “‘is Romeo?” “Oh, don’t you know Romeo? Why, he belongs to the I. Borden Hemingways, who have taken the Villa Framboise. They just brought him from England.” “A pug?” asked Mrs. Peabody, with a faint show of interest. “The puggiest pug ever,’’ answered Mrs Frothingham. ‘“He’s the most snobbish- looking creature I ever saw, and no wonder, for he has won blue ribbons in every bench show in England for being the best bred male pug.”’ “Really?”’ Mrs. Peabody said. Hilde- garde stirred in her slumber “Do you know the Hemingways?” asked Mrs. Frothingham. “No, but I dare say they could be met,” said Mrs. Peabody. “Well, then,”’ suggested Mrs. Frothingham, “why don’t you arrange with Mr. Heming- way—” “No,” cut in Mrs. Peabody positively. “We're not interested in that sort of thing, are we, Hildegarde?” On her pillow, Hilde- garde opened an eyc and with it regarded Mrs. Peabody. VEN to one not responsive to the nuances of his moods, it would have been quite clear that when James Peabody came in from the polo field late that afternoon he was a disturbed man. His wife, of course, sensed it at once. One look at the unwonted pallor of his face told her that something was wrong. “James! What is it? Has anything hap- pened?” 4 “Worse than that,” he answered. ‘ Some- thing is going to happen.” He laid aside his polo mallet and sat down on the couch beside her. His voice was vi- brant with feeling as he said: “Adelaide, there is something I must say to you.” She slightly shuddered. “Now, James,” she said, “please do not bring up the subject we discussed last evening. My feeling about it is well known to you. I do not want—” He silenced her with a hasty, “It is not of you I intend to speak. It is of Hildegarde” The color left her cheeks. “Hildegarde? What about her?” She gazed down anxiously at the cushion where Hildegarde reposed. “You may well look at her that way,” said James Peabody. “Look while you can. You shall never look upon her like again.” “Oh, James, what do you mean?” “IT mean,” he answered, “that Hildegarde is the last pug of her gender in the world.” “The last?’’ she quavered. “But surely there will be others—” He shook his head. “No,” he said, “there can never be—now.” “Oh, James, why?” “Because all the other pugs left in the world are—gentlemen.” “1 don’t believe it. I won't believe it, Oh, tell me it isn’t so.” “Unhappily it is.” “Then, when she is gone, there will be no one to take her place?” “No one,” he said. “Adelaide, we haye been living in a fool’s paradise. We have not faced the facts.” “What facts?” “*To-day,”’ he answered, “on the polo field I met our new neighbor, I. Borden Heming- way. It appears that he is a_ noted dog fancier, an amateur of pugs. He has just returned from a trip round the world during which he made a survey of the pug situation. His statistics show that in the fiscal year ending May first, there were only forty-one pugs left alive in the world, and of this num. ber only six were ladies—two in London, one in Shanghai, one in Baltimore. one in Potts town, Pennsylvania, and our own Hildegarde. Since then five have expired. Only this morning he received a telegram from Potts- town, Pennsylvania: ‘Natalia passed away this morning.’” “What,” asked Mrs. Peabody, “was the cause of her demise?” N A LOW voice he told her. “The same reason that caused the demise of the others: she could not survive motherhood That is why the family of pugs is fated to become extinct; its women are too delicate.” ‘James! Speak in a whisper. Hildegarde may hear you.” “She seems to be asleep,” he said, but whispered nevertheless. “Adelaide,” he whispered, “we have been entrusted with a great responsibility " “We have been, indeed, James.” For a time they sat in thought, then the man spoke. “Mr. Hemingway has a remarkably fine pug named Romeo, and he intimated that it we wished—” But she did not let him finish “No, James. That is too much for us to ask of Hildegarde. We can not expect her to make the sacrifice, to take the risk.” * ae she is the hope of the pug race,” he said. “No matter. She must never know. We must cherish her, prolong her life. She is four now, and with care will live to be sixteen.” “And after that?’ “Let us not talk about that to-night, James,”” Mrs. Peabody said quietly. started to say something, buts abruptly. Hildegarde was lying there mo- tionless, but her small bright eyes were fix on their faces. “Great Heavens,” exclaimed Mrs. Pet body, ‘‘do you suppose she heard?” James Peabody sat at his breakfast of grilled kidneys next morning. “James!” His wife’s high, excited voice made him start up. ““What, Adelaide?” “Have you seen Hildegarde?” | “Why, no; not since I looked into her room half an hour ago. She was sleeping peacefully then.” ““She’s gone,” cried Mrs. Peabody. “Gone?” He hurriedly summoned all the servants. “Hildegarde is missing,” he said in sharp incisive periods of a general on the eve of battle. ‘Search everywhere. Make haste.” j He himself began to search the drawing room. She was not behind the chaise len nor the curtains. Then an exclamation wonder escaped from the lips of James Peabody. ee ‘* Adelaide,” he called. “Come, quickly, “Have you found her?” his wife s hurrying to his side as he stood at the Fren window giving on the rose garden. sated “Look!” was his answer. He — Then Mrs. Peabody gave echo to his won! . Around the path circling the rose bu It small, dark object could be seen moving. , was Hildegarde. And she was not st ‘tied indolently, as her custom was, but was tro trot actually trotting, a sedate, even stately but a trot, nevertheless. (Continued on page 100) for

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for FEBRUARY 1925 F several thousand Series 80 owners a surprising number have gradu- O ated from the ownership of cars costing less money. These men have reasoned wisely that it is more economical to invest a little more in a Pierce-Arrow Series 80. Its moderate first cost distributed over many years of service is a sound investment. Add to this the marked economy of operation and maintenance and you realize why the Pierce-Arrow Series 80 has established a new low level of cost per mile. Pierce-Arrow representatives are displaying the latest Series 80 body Styles in new and distinétive color combinations. DemonStrations are made at any time. A complete catalog will be sent upon reque$ THE PIERCE-ARROW MOTOR CAR COMPANY, Buzaffalo, N. Y. Financing arrangements are offered by the Pierce-Arrow Finance Corporation, a banking institution RCE-ARRO at Buffalo

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« RS AND DRESS 4 Si WBRICAN ARIS7,°8 dy ss My. 10 EAST 5578 STREET New YorK .™ east “Can she be ill?”’ gasped Mrs. Peabody. “‘Something radical is the matter with her,” decided Mr. Peabody, puzzled. ‘She hasn’t gone out voluntarily for a walk since she was a puppy. Why, look, Adelaide, she is posi- tively attempting to run!” He spoke only the truth; Hildegarde was attempting to run; true she achieved only a brisk waddle, but her intention was plain. “Oh, what shall we do?” queried Mrs. Pea- body. “Let her trot,”’ suggested Mr. Peabody. “But won't it tax her heart?” “Au coniraire,’ he answered, “it will probably be good for her.” Hildegarde had made the circuit of the garden, not twice but four times. On a patch of lawn she stopped and lay on her back. Mrs. Peabody gave a short cry of dismay, for she thought, for a brief moment, that Hilde- garde had fainted. But Hildegarde, it ap- peared, had done nothing of the kind. Very deliberately she began to move her short legs up and down, up and down, and then to roll from side to side. “Why, James—” Mrs. Peabody was smil- ing. “Yes, my dear?” “One might almost imagine that the dear girl was imitating you.” “Tmitating me, Adelaide? Sorry, but I fail to detect even a remote resemblance.” “But don’t you see, James? That’s ex- actly the way you do your morning exer- cises—one, two, three, four, roll; one, two, three, four, roll.” “By Jove,” he exclaimed. “By Jove!” Presently Hildegarde ceased her activities, and came into the house. She was panting. When she saw them, she averted her eyes as one abashed. When James Peabody came in from the links to his tea that same afternoon, Mrs. Peabody had new wonders to relate. “Hildegarde has refused to drink her cream!” “What?” “Refused, absolutely, to drink her cream.” “Ts she ill?” “She seems perfectly well. But when I offered her her cream she pushed the saucer aside with her paw and gave me the queerest look, James.” “That isn’t the least like Hildegarde,” said Mr. Peabody. ‘“‘She is passionately addicted to cream. I can not fathom it. Perhaps we had better send for Dr. Lowell.” Send for the eminent canine specialist they did, and he made an exhaustive examination of Hildegarde, who, surprisingly, bore it with patience; usually, on such occasions, her irri- tation was ill concealed. “Her very nature seems to be undergoing some change,’”’ whispered Mrs. Peabody to her husband. ‘Oh, dear, can this be second child- hood?” Dr. Lowell’s report reassured them. “‘ Aside from a somewhat marked tendency to hyper-obesity and a general muscular flaccidity, I can detect no symptoms or lesions that would warrant apprehension,” the special- ist declared. “You mean she is too fat and too soft, but is otherwise all right?”’ asked Mr. Peabody. “Tn lay language, yes,” the specialist con- ceded. Their perplexity grew when at dinner again Hildegarde refused to touch her cream. “Tt’s temperament,”’ concluded Mrs. Pea- body. ‘‘Hildegarde, at heart, is an artist.” USUALLY Hildegarde slept till nine, or ten, or even later, as the fancy prompted her. Next morning, unaccountably, she rose at seven, and Mr. Peabody, coming down for an early breakfast, saw her trotting around the rose garden, holding her head high, and draw- ing the morning air into her lungs. Four times she circumnavigated the rosebushes at a, for her, brisk pace; then she paused for a short rest; then, with his own eyes Mr. Pea- body witnessed this phenomenon, she doggedly trotted four more laps. Then, lying on her back, she moved her legs up and down, and rolled—one, two, three, four, roll; one, two, three, four, roll With his own hands Mr. Peabody sought to administer breakfast to her. Her behavior was peculiar, and had he not known her to be a thorough-going hedonist he would have sus- pected her of a new-born asceticism. She nibbled a fragment of toast, consented to devour a small piece of delicious lamb chop, and then, though her eye lingered longingly on it, she spurned, deliberately, her matutinal saucer of thick cream. This extraordinary conduct filled Mr. Peabody’s mind with such baffling speculations that he missed an eight- een-inch putt on the tenth green. The mysterious change in the life of Hilde- garde Peabody proved to be more than a passing fad. Each morning she continued to rise at an early hour, and to go forth into the rose garden, there to trot determinedly around the path. In a week she could circle it six times without pausing for breath. In two HARPER’S BAZAR SPRING FLOW’RETS Richard Connell’s (Continued from page 98) Story weeks she could make ten consecutive cir. cuits. Moreover, the variety and violence of her exercises increased. Steadfastly she eschewed cream; she turned her back on bon. bons. Her waist-line was becoming a thing of the past. “A reformation,” exclaimed Mrs. Peabody, “A renaissance,” cried Mr. Peabody, —~ “What can it mean, James?” ’ “T wonder, Adelaide.” [t WAS a fair Friday morning toward the end of the fourth week of the mysterious conduct of Hildegarde Peabody. When Mr Peabody came down-stairs. dressed for beagling, there was a commotion in the house- hold that drove all thoughts of beagling from his mind. “She’s gone. Hildegarde’s gone,” was Mrs Peabody’s greeting to him. 5 “Tsn’t she in the garden?” “No. She is nowhere.” “Have you looked thoroughly.” “Ves. Everywhere.” “Tn the shrubbery?” “Ves?” “Tn the garage?” “Yes, even inside the limousines.” “Tn the stables?” “Ves, in every stall.” “Tn the conservatory, my study, the bil- liard-room?” ; oe “Tn the drawing-room, the music-room, the radio-room?”’ “Ves. “In the breakfast room, the luncheon room, the dining-room?” “Te.” “The ballroom and the laundry?” i “Our rooms?” “Certainly.” “The guests’ rooms and baths?” “Yes, James, yes.” “Have you scoured the servants’ quarters?” “Of course.” “And the attic, the cellar and the gold fish pond?” “Tes, “And Hildegarde’s own room?” “James,” Mrs. Peabody’s voice was tragic. “Hildegarde’s bed had not been ‘slept in! Grosvenor says she went out of the house just after dark last night.” “Didn’t he stop her?” “Of course not. You know you gave him strict orders never to interfere with her movements.” “So I did,” groaned Mr. Peabody. “We have been remiss, Adelaide, remiss. What shall we do?” “Telephone the police,” she said. “Get detectives. Offer a reward—one thousand— five thousand—anything.”’ “Tl do it.” He flew to the telephone, but it was al- ready ringing. “Oh, hello, Hemingway—” his wife heard him say. “No. You don’t tell me? Is he, really? Well, so is Hildegarde. By Jove! Really? No, I haven’t. Yes, I will. Thanks. Good-by.” “Tt’s Hemingway,” he reported. “He called up to ask if I had seen Romeo. It seems that Romeo disappeared from the Villa Framboise at ten twenty-one last night.” Peabody Manor was filled with private detectives, fat, narrow-eyed men with derby hats and square-nosed shoes, specialists in the finding of missing dogs. They buzzed. They aired theories. They spoke darkly of “in- side jobs” and put footmen through third degrees. They examined the carpet wit microscopes. They asked if “suspicious characters had been seen lurking in t neighborhood.” They peered under sofas, into vases. Black-lettered reward bills soon dotted the neighboring landscape, and in early editions of the newspapers were large advertisements, with pictures of Hildegarde, front view and in profile. A stream of nondescript persons began to flow across the broad verandas of Peabody Manor, bearing in baskets, carrying in arms, tugging at the end of ropes St. Bernards, otter-hounds, setter pups, chows, bloodhounds, beagles, lurchers, whippets, _ collies, great Danes, Pomeranians, spotted coach dog poodles, Skye terriers, greyhounds, police dogs, dachshunds, Newfoundlands, mongt and cats. The lawn was a howling, yipping chaos of battles royal. Sadly Mr. Peabody reviewed the passing processions, and his head. In all that galaxy there was 0° Hildegarde. b Some of the detectives had gone off to com the countryside, others had dropped to their knees and were prowling about the gardens; still others had left for nearby towns hot = some scent. Then, at five o’clock that ~~ noon, Hildegarde came back. Unobserv' she came trotting up the path and ta . at the front door till it was opened for a She accepted the overjoyed welcome of (Concluded on page 102) ”

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for FEBRUARY 1925 J eS US) ANY women buy glittering imitation pearls under the impression that they Zz yt look like real pearls. But if you who read this, Madam, will take the trouble to compare a Técla Necklace with an Oriental Necklace, in any other high class jeweler’s, you will see that they are absolutely alike in that their iridescence is absolutely different from the artificial brilliancy of imitation pearls. Tecla Pearl Necklaces with Genuine Diamond Clasps $100 Ceca 398 Fifth Avenue New IO Rue de Ia Paix. Paris 7 Old Bond St., London

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102 Chez Sherry or Cher Vous In addition to the delightful menus, and the perfect service which have pleased New York’s appreciative clientele for a quarter of a century, is the charming “atmosphere” at Sherry’s. Here is the ideal place to entertair at luncheon, dinner, informal or formal gathering. You may also avail yourself of Sherry’s unmis- : takable touch in artistic catering in yourown home or club, either for complete or supplementary service. Suggestions for any sort of social gathering, large or small, gladly given at Sherry headquarters. CUNY 300 PARK AVENUE HARPER’S BAZAR A CONVERSATION ABOUT SOUTHERN CLOTHES (Concluded from page 83) A plain tunic of soft white silk with huge em- broidered sleeves. The appliqué work is of bits of silk made into a design of birds’ wings. “The shades are bright greens, blues, violets in all gradations, with silver edges gleaming among the various colors. “Oh, yes, she has brought one or two other garments. One is a violet Georgette gown, with big floating panels thrown over the shoulders like a scarf. The lower part of this beltless gown has huge flowers of gold, cop- per, and silver tissues, reembroidered in bril- liant bits of silk blended into ultra modern patterns. Yes, the famous evening coat I’ve heard so much about is here, too—gold and silver embroideries on white crépe and the identical embroideries on black crépe. There is a white fox collar and a black fox border below. It is an unusual coat, to say the least of it. No, I haven’t photographed it yet, but it will make a stunning picture. “Yes, Mrs. Addison has brought two long scarfs. They have Myrbor written all over them. The green one is most effective, pat- terned with red, violet, and yellow flowers, but personally I like the black Georgette scarf best, with its white, star-like embroidered flowers. “Yes, kindly present my compliments to Madame Cuttoli, Madame Myrbor as I once called her, and which amused her hugely. “Oh, I didn’t realize she had left for Algiers. How romantic; even if a bit out of the way. “Yes, it must complicate for prompt de- livery. Certainly . . . d bientét.” - ADEMOISELLE, donnez moi Louvre 06.07—Maison Patou. Is it you, Monsieur Georges? Will you give me par- ticulars about an evening gown I’ve just photographed? The Comtesse de Beausacq has just left and told me the gown she was photographed in had been made at Patou’s. I Rave asked her permission to use the picture in Harper’s Bazar, so must have a correct description of it. Somehow, while photo- graphing it, I was absorbed by the work and didn’t notice the details of coloring very ac- curately. However, I remember the gown was of banana-colored panne velvet. Yes, let me take a pencil and write it all down—banana- colored velvet with gold guipure lace and em- broidered flowers in brilliant tones of rose, blue, mauve, gold, etc. Yes, I remember it all blends beautifully. Thanks so much. “Hello—Mr. Patou wants to speak himself? I'll hold the wire . . . Hello, Mr. Patou. So glad you are back. I am coming to see you to-morrow to get your first-hand impressions of America. I am glad you were interested. Very tired? I should think so. . . . That really was thoughtful; the six American man- nequins you brought back were specially selected in view of posing for me? I am in- tensely flattered. Well, hurry up—the sooner you create ravishing models, the sooner I shall produce pictures of these beautiful ladies. We'll talk it over to-morrow. Au revoir.” Later in the afternoon . . . “Mr. Trouyet de la Maison Vionnet, on the telephone, please. “Ves, Mr. Trouyet, Baron de Meyer speak- ing. The mannequin you sent has just left. Mademoiselle Chiffon came with the Palm Beach clothes I selected yesterday. I was much interested in photographing such sim. ple tailored clothes, as they are not at all the kind one generally associates with your house. Of course, I know Madame Vionnet is versa. tile. Her tailor-made clothes are as success. ful as her Greek-looking garments. In fact, though severely tailored, they have a je ne sais quoi about them which is very typically Vionnet. The ‘blazer’ is a real trouvaille I photographed it in stripes of rose, gray, and white, over a plaited white skirt. The hat Mademoiselle Chiffon wore with it is a very soft white Panama from Reboux. It com- pletes the Southern outfit. Wait till you see my Palm Beach setting, my real palms, It will be a wonderful picture. “Yes, I know this is to be a ‘white season’ I also photographed a white cloth coat, made like a man’s old-fashioned driving coat, very loose and baggy. Also another one, of white ratine, shaped just like my double-breasted overcoat. It has a ‘martingale’ across the back. Yes, the knitted white sweater, too, with yellow and black triangular embroideries is very new and smart. Don’t cut us off, Mademoiselle—aren’t those demoiselles dy téléphone tiresome? Yes, the white cloth gown I picked out yesterday, the one with the pink appliqué designs on it, was here, too, The pattern is Greek in feeling, and the sim- plicity of line lovely It’s a good model. “Now don’t forget you are to send that magnificent ermine cape, the one with the black lining and the white velvet dragons appliqué, to my studio. It will be quite a treat to photograph it. Your fur coats are really very unique. In spite of their plainness, the Vionnet cachet is strongly felt. I'll come in Friday and we'll make the appointment. “Of course, Mr. Trouyet, I know it's de- signed for cool summer evenings and is not a winter wrap. Don’t you think I can distin- guish between a fur wrap for winter and an- other specially meant for summer? I am al- most offended you should consider it necessary to explain such obvious facts to me. All right; d vendredi ...” UITE late the same afternoon—x “i re “Ah, Madame Stephane, of the Maison Philippe et Gaston. Of course I remember you accompanied the young ladies who posed for me last week in the Philippe et Gaston models. No, the pictures are not quite ready. Any- way, they will be leaving for New York by next mail, addressed to Harper’s Bazar. ““Which is the best? I really couldn’t say. The bright red marocain gown, with the white decorations and the wide band of découpé em- broidery on the skirt, is a very charming model, but the banana-colored crépe'de Chine gown, with the patterned mousseline de soie flounces and the big beflounced scarf, like a cape, which buttons on in front, is also quite successful. Somehow, the dark girl who wears it, and her large circular straw hat, remind one of Creole countries, la Martinique, palm trees, sunlight—in fact, the tropics.” SPRING FLOW’RETS (Concluded from page 100) Peabodys and the subsequent scolding with downcast eyes. The face of Hildegarde Pea- body was strangely demure. Time passed in the world and in Peabody Manor. In the manner of Hildegarde hau- teur had given way to a new look, a look of gentleness. “James!” He steeled himself for some startling in- telligence. They were on the breakfast porch, breakfasting. “‘Why, Adelaide, what has happened?” “Something dreadful,” she got out, “‘to Hildegarde.” “What?” “She is—she is—well, you can see for Jove.’ Time continued to pass. AWN. To the door of Peabody Manor raced the motor of Dr. Lowell. A tense hush was over the spacious house. The servants walked on their tiptoes, or,-in groups, whispered. In his study James Peabody paced the floor. In her boudoir Adelaide Peabody paced the floor. Now and then a white-clad, white-capped nurse emerged on silent feet from Hildegarde’s room, and in answer to Mr. Peabody’s questioning glance murmured— “Not yet,” or, “As well as can be expected.” At last, to the door, came Dr. Lowell, in white from head to foot. His face was grave. “You and Mrs. Peabody may come in now,” he said in a deep voice. Side by side, James Peabody and Adelaide, his wife, entered the room and stood by bedside, hand in hand. Hildegarde looked up into their faces; she tried to wag her short, curled tail, but had not the strength. One the nurses touched Mrs. Peabody on the shoulder, and Mrs. Peabody, turning, saw 4 long white wicker basket from which came faint peeping sounds. s “Nine,” Mrs. Peabody counted. Ob, what kind?” Zs : Ky but one,” said Dr. Lowell, “are girls.” “Look, Hildegarde,” cried Mrs. Peabody f “a - and eight a Aren’t you proud? Your race will go on.” To the wan face of Hildegarde Peabody came a look that transfigured her, a joy and of peace. Then she closed her eye and lay still. With his own hands, bag yenety gently pulled the sheet up over ead “She has carried on,” he said, simply. he “Oh, James!” cried Mrs. Peabody, ‘§ did hear us that day. She did know the price she would have to pay, and yet, and yet oid prepared herself—and paid it— he not go on. a. “It “There, there,” soothed her husband, Bd was not in vain. You saw that look nm ot eyes. She knew that she had paid her a to posterity. Why, Adelaide, where are ¥ going?” : her face, His wife looked back at him, and her too, was transfigured. : “T’m going out,” she said, the rose garden.” “to run around

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HARPER’S BAZAR A WORTHY QUITTANCE E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Continued from page or) Cardinge. He was like me in one respect. He was not altogether one of fortune’s favorites.” “You too, then,” she ventured, “‘were one of Madame’s Virgins.” His lips curled for a moment. “T belonged to that astounding society,” he confessed. “We are being disbanded, I understand. I have come a great distance to keep my oath and receive my quittance.” “A great many have already visited us,” she observed. ‘You must be almost the last.” “Has Maurice Tringe been here?” he demanded. HE question was an ordinary one enough, but the manner of his asking was amazing. The words had almost leapt from his mouth. It was like the flash of a rapier and there was something in his eyes from which she shrank. “Not yet,’’ she answered, a little hesi- tatingly. ‘‘Madame has heard from him, though. He comes, I think, to-day or to- morrow.” The man was suddenly transformed. In appearance he had become somehow less prepossessing but more vital. He was all nerves and intentness. “Where does he come from?”’ he asked. “From Italy,” the girl replied. ‘He spends the night at Monte Carlo.” “And I am here,” Andrew Sarle muttered. “Then I still believe in a God!” He turned away, almost as though he had forgotten her presence. It was her oppor- tunity to depart but for some reason or other she lingered. She too leaned, a few feet away, upon the flower-smothered rail of the veranda and looked across the valley. “Vou two,” she repeated presently, “will be almost the last.” “Tt is fitting,” he pronounced shortly. He had relapsed into moodiness. It was perfectly clear that he had no mind for con- versation. Yet Claire was somehow indis- posed to leave him. His suffering had at first enchained her pity. This new look in his face moved her almost to fear. “T wonder if you are a painter?” she asked. “Why?” “So many artists come here, and you have the appearance.” He shook his head. “No,” he said. “I have no profession. At the time when Madame knew me I had but one thought. We were all the same. There was the common bond—adventure. It was the spirit of adventure which made us willing to take the great risks. The spirit of adventure, I suppose,” he went on, “which has brought me to what I am. I took a risk, et voila /—this is the result!” “A gambler can always recover,” Claire reminded him gently. “Material things,’ he assented. “ Happi- ness is scarcely involved in the gain or loss of material things. In life those count so much less than the young believe.” HERE was the sound behind of smooth footsteps—Madame’s languid voice. “The old Andrew,” she murmured. “ Always moralizing! Claire, you had better set off on your walk. Let Hugh know who has arrived. See that he returns with you to luncheon. . . . So you, too, have found your way here, Andrew Sarle?” “T, too, have obeyed, Madame,” he ac- quiesced. ‘For me it has been a weary journey.” “You have come far?” “From the Pyrenees, begging my way most of the time.” Madame received the information equably. Sympathy seemed to be a gift entirely denied to her. “You were a rich man in our days, Andrew,” she remarked. “The war,” he announced, “and a long course of ‘dissolute living,’ as the lawyers put it.” “You have, I fear, neglected your gifts,” she continued. “That was a charming little play you wrote for Comier, produced at the ‘Capucines.’ Have you written anything else like that?” “Nothing.” “Those little articles of yours?” “T have not touched a pen for ten years.” She shrugged her shoulders. “We each know our own lives! No one can help those without the will to help them- selves. ... So you have come for your quittance?” “And to offer you, perhaps,” he said, “a last service.” “Vou use our own formula,” she observed. “But for you—well, I have nothing planned. Perhaps I shall be very good natured and hand you your quittance without exacting service. affair.” “As you like,” he answered indifferent} “As a matter of fact. I had imagined that { might be more useful to you than any of the others.” d “In what way?” “Oh, I know them all,” he declare. “Ty come across them or heard of their caret és different times. Most have been successfyl Most have come to you shivering with fear lest they should be asked to flout the law at your bidding—to embroil themselves with the conventionalities in the carrying out of this last service. I come to vou free from all that. That is why I thought | might be useful.” “No fears, no conscience, eh?” Madame queried. “T will not go so far as that,” he objected “T have my own standard. The point is that, within a month or so, I shall be dead What I do between now and then is of no account to any human being. Show me an action, in itself great, but which must be performed _illegally—a batch of human vermin without whom the world were the better—even a single individual who stands in the light, and I have no scruples.” “All for the sake of that insignificant quittance.” “You can keep my quittance if you will” he answered. “My request will sound more sordid. I require enough money to travel a little distance, to attire myself and to live like a gentleman until the end.” “And why the end?” ‘Because my search is nearly over. Within a few days I am going to kill a man— murder, people will call it, I suppose. Well, that doesn’t matter. Afterwards you will understand that it will be necessary for me also to disappear.” Madame sighed contentedly. “T am so glad you came, Andrew,” she confided. “You bring with you a most in- spiring breath of real vitality. Who is the man whom you are going to kill?” “Maurice Tringe.” Madame nodded thoughtfully. “More and more interesting. There was a woman, wasn’t there?” “My wife.” Madame nodded. “But surely,” she said, “that was seven years ago.” Your confession was never a terrible E INDICATED himself and his condi- tion by a gesture. “Maurice was always a coward,” he de- clared passionately. “I have hunted him this seven years. Hence my idle pen, my empty banking account. He had wealth, and he used it to avoid me—a yacht in southern seas—I had to follow by steamer. He kept off the beaten routes, being able to go when and how he chose. I had to follow on scheduled lines. Steamers and sailings were well known to him. He took his eas until a day or two before my arrival and passed on.... Yet, I have given him » rest. There has never been a moment when he has not felt that I was coming—some where a long way away, but coming as surely as the thud of the engines which drove my steamer. For seven years he has found m0 home. He tried to communicate with me- suggested an interview—a compromist— he even asked for pity. I never answered letter or advertisement.” “You have been extraordinarily persever ing,” Madame remarked, fanning herself. “Tt is your summons,” Andrew Sarle west on, “which will draw him to his death. heard of him in Italy after I had sought for him in vain at Pau. Then I, too, had my call From Pau here is, they tell me, a pl motor ride—a railway journey, perhaps, or three days, pleasantly broken. To walk it takes two months. My lungs are not what they were.” “You have walked from Pau?” Madame asked. “From Pau,” he answered. “And I was on my way to Italy. Perhaps Italy will be necessary.” . “How do you know that Maurice has not already been here?’ Madame inquire¢. He was silent. Madame understood. “Claire, of course,” she murmured. be “T should have known in any case, assured her. s Madame fanned herself for several momen in silence. As the sun mounted, the umming of the bees grew more insistent, the perfume of the flowers a little more languid. The sut- shine stole even into the shady corners. yet the breeze lingered. y = “You are still,” Madame reminded him, Virgin.” (Continued on page 100) Michael Arlen will have a story in the March Harper’s Bazar—“The Owl ye the Fountain.” It is another glamorous tale of “These Charming People. for RO }

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for FEBRUARY 1925 105 Judge by her own choice When the preferences of one-whom-you-would-please are unknown, there are two courses to follow: @ The first is to try to learn her own choice. Failing that, to give in such impeccable good taste that you cannot fail to please. @ Thus gentlemen giving candy most fre- quently choose Johnston’s, for they are doubly confident of the result. @ They find the person they would please most often chooses it for herself. And they know that Johnston’s being socially correct, cannot fail to leave the impression they desire. CHOCOLATES You will find a Secial agency for JohnSton’s Chocolates in one of the better class Stores in your neighbourhood. = FrPseane & ROBERT A. JOHNSTON COMPANY MILWAUKEE

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Orange Hair Hat Velvet Ribbon to match, with Ombré Roses—All Shades Full flared Circular Skirt, Embroidered in Medallion Effect of Silver Bugie, Crystal Beads and Set in Shaded Roses in All Shades of Crepe Chiffon Open: Back, Cut “V’’ HATS GOWNS 366 Fifth Avenue, New York Below 35th Street HARPER’S BAZAR A WORTHY QUITTANCE E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Continued from page 104) “Until I receive my quittance,” he agreed. “You will remember, perhaps,” she continued, “‘one of the privileges I enforced. Your friendships and your enmities were nothing to me outside my circle. Your friendships and your enmities with one another were my concern.” “Well?” “Tn the case of any quarrel between two of you it was I who adjudicated.” “Well?” “You are still a Virgin. You will record to me your grievance against Maurice Tringe.” HE man brooded over the matter for several minutes. “You insist?” he asked at last. “*T insist.” Sarle told his story in a perfectly level, mechanical tone. It was like a child repeat- ing a piece of prose history. “T will spare you evidence,” he said. “TI will tell you only facts. You can accept my word that they are true. I have the proof. In nineteen-fourteen, at the time when you, Madame, and your Virgins, were the sen- sation of Paris, we were compelled to disband. Maurice Tringe and I were curiously brought together. We were never friends, yet the war, two years of fighting side by side, brought a certain comradeship. At Soissons I was Tringe’s superior officer. It was my duty to order him into a place of danger. He fell there. I saved his life. I myself was wounded, more dangerously than he. He was sent to England. I was too ill to be moved. I gave him a letter to my wife. You will remember that I married Pauline de Neuilly.”’ “T remember.” “It was many months before I could travel to England. Something was wrong. That, my letters told me. When I arrived—they had gone. There was a letter from her—an illuminating letter! From him—nothing. I went into hospital. As soon as I was cured— as nearly cured as I shall ever be—I started on my quest.” “And your poverty?” Madame inquired. “When war broke out,” he explained, “I divided my fortune. I gave half to my wife. My half was shrunk, owing to the war con- ditions. I spent it traveling round the world on my quest.” “An old and simple story,” Madame mused. “As old as the hills,” he acknowledged, “but with a different meaning to every man. My wife was my life, and she was a good woman. He blasted my happiness—he must have blasted hers. She was a good woman. I grudge him these years I have lived before my fingers could reach his throat.” Madame nodded. “Really,” she decided, ‘‘the whole thing seems to me to be most regular. I scarcely see how I can interfere.” “Your interference,” he replied with a touch of passion in his tone, “‘ would never have been tolerated.” Madame sighed. “Most of my Virgins,” she remarked, “have been so prosperous. You are quite depress- ing, Andrew.” “Then let me go,” he rejoined quickly. “You know all that I want from you.” “Yes, I know,” she admitted. ‘You want to make me an accessory to the killing of Maurice Tringe. I provide the means. You do the deed.” “You have entirely mistaken me,” he assured her. “I desire nothing from you, unless, by any chance, my services had been desirable. I can deal with Maurice Tringe in my own way.” “Age has not corrected your impetuosity,” Madame yawned. ‘Why make such a rush of life? ‘Take a more comfortable chair and light a cigaret . . . You remember Car- dinge? I think that he must have been reading Horace, for he has turned farmer and can think of nothing but his vintage. He will be here for luncheon.” “IT must move on,” Andrew Sarle declared. “My rags are not for your table.” “Don’t tell me that you have lost your good taste, too,” Madame begged. “Such a remark is inadmissible. Place yourself in my butler’s hands. He has clothes here—relics of the old days. . . Between now and luncheon time I shall think over the situation. It is a very simple one. It has occurred before. The lover runs away with his friend’s wife. The friend naturally desires to kill the lover. I see no objection provided the other consider- ations are normal.” “Your friend Cardinge, from what I re- member of him,”’ Andrew Sarle remarked, “would scarcely have been so long about it.” “T don’t know,” she answered soothingly. “You have done all that was possible. . . There is William inside the salon. Let him look after you for half-an-hour and when you come down there will be an apéritif ready. Afterwards luncheon—then talk.” “Supposing Maurice Tringe should arrive while I am here?” he asked, lingering. “You need not consider us,” Madame replied. ‘Anything that must happen, must happen naturally. As a matter of fact, I do not think that there is any chance of it, Maurice reaches Monte Carlo to-night and will probably stay there.” “Tf I remain,” Andrew Sarle stipulated “will you provide me with the means of reaching Monte Carlo to-night? I shall be too late to get there on foot.” “A ridiculous question,” Madame mur- mured. “You certainly will not leave here as a pauper or in those clothes. Very likely I will take you in to Monto Carlo myself. Very likely I may think of a better scheme.” “Then I accept with gratitude your in- vitation,”’ he announced. NDREW SARLE, shaved and attired in the garments of civilization, became at once a personable although a silent guest at the villa. He greeted Cardinge civilly but incuriously, sipped his apéritif with the air of one entirely unused to such things, and seldom spoke except when he was addressed. All the time he looked only in one direction—along the thread of empty and dusty road. Heat sparingly but with appreciation, took wine moderately, but smoked when invited to between the courses with obvious enjoyment, After coffee had been served on the piazza Madame waved the others away. Her guest rearranged his chair so that he commanded a view of the road. “Andrew,” his hostess began, “I suppose if you wére asked you would be able to say what you considered had been the ruling passion of my life.” “Love of adventure,’”’ he answered without removing his eyes from the road. “Quite true,” she assented. “It was with- out doubt my love of adventure which induced me when I was only a child to marry the Duc de Soyau, although there was not a single one of my friends or relatives, or even, for that matter, his, who did not assure me that he was the greatest scoundrel in Europe.” “Tt was a foolish business, that.” “Tt brought me no satisfaction,” Madame confessed. “A few more years with my husband, and I should possibly have become a good woman from sheer inability to deal with his wickedness. However, he had the good taste to die. My second adventure was the gathering together of you, my Virgins.” The glimmerings of a smile parted her guest’s lips. “You had all the adventure you wanted then.” “Of a sort,’”’ she acquiesced. “And yet, partly by chance, partly, I suppose, owing to the handicap of my sex, there are sev things which I have missed. I have never seen a murder committed.” He moved a little uneasily in his chair. “You, of course,” she went on reminiscently, “have seen men die—men who deserved to die, I mean. That is where murder becomes justice.” “T have seen men die like flies,” he ac knowledged. ‘Whether they deserved to die, God only knows.” “You speak of the war, I suppose,” she objected. “That does not interest me. It is too impersonal. In all our adventures I have never seen two men face to face—not m a polite duel, but one at least of them fired with the savage desire to kill.” “What are you leading up to?” he asked bluntly. “This,” she answered; “I have a prop osition to make to you. You have decided to murder Maurice Tringe, and I find no moral reason why you should not. You desire your quittance from me and a certall amount of help. Both you shall have, on oné condition. Wait here for Maurice Tringé oy —_ murder take da peg under this roof let it be stage-managed by me. “T must kill him at sight,” Andrew Sarle pointed out. “If not he will escape.” “He shall not escape,” Madame promised calmly. “He is coming for his quittance, and he will not leave without it. I have stud murder from the psychological point of view. I know the niceties and the ethics of it. Leavé it all in my hands, Andrew. Let it be I say the word and our bargain is struck. this house and with my help, Maurice Tring® cannot possibly escape. If you wander = Monte Carlo a pauper the chances are imndoed to ene that you will never come actos him at all. “On one condition, I agree,” he declared. “Well?” ie P “You must assure me that this is not, trap. You will not ask me to show mercy?” ’ of Madame laughed with a quiet sense enjoyment. Am I that sort of person?” she demandel, “I am a believer in justice. Mercy T wil weakness of others. I promise that (Continued on page 108) “ai . for wom Lo! 4 Graf; 126 D 1540 Wa

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a eer Te 108 maybe on the other side of the moon it is safe to wash your face MOST certainly soap and water will do your face no good in this more familiar climate. Think why. Realize how true this is. Soap is alkaline. Water is often hard. Winds and weather age and dry your skin. Cleanse your face and nourish your skin. Give your complexion the best care it can have. Marie Earle’s Essential Cream (the Creme Anti Rides) is the perfect food for your skin, just as milk is the natural food for a little child. It has a medical basis, and is fundamental in the Marie Earle treatment. Marie Earle herself superin- tends the mixing of it and of all her preparations, the lotions, the creams, the astringents. Powders, compactes and the bath soap are made for her in France. . . . Marie Earle has been considered exclusive in the extreme. You have heard perhaps from your friends of the satisfying and splendid results of her treatments. Her salon in Paris was familiar to women of wealth and prominence long before she established her New York Salon. Now you may have her advice. Write for her questionnaire. Tell her frankly about your face. She will tell you how simply you can give yourself a Marie Earle treatment. The Creme Anti Rides contains only rich vegetable oils actually absorbed by the skin. At quality stores—send for a list of them. Or order direct. Salons in Paris, in Wash- ington; in New York, 600 Madison Avenue. Usually Marie Earle herself is in New York. The Essential Cream in generous jars, $1.90 and up. —a ta 4 4 Te’ W YORK PARIS HARPER’S BAZAR A WORTHY QUITTANCE E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Continued from page 106) interfere in no way whatever except to choose the moment when you may strike. “Then I accept your terms,” he acquiesced. ATER in the afternoon Madame ordered her limousine. “T am going to drive as far as the sea,” she told her guest. “Please accompany me.” He shook his head. His eyes were seldom far away from that dusty strip of high road. “T prefer to watch the road,” he said. “He may come at any minute.” Madame passed him a telegraphic dispatch which had been brought to her some time before. He read it eagerly. It was dated from Monte Carlo early that morning: Just arrived here. Shall be with you twelve midday to-morrow. Maurice. “ To-morrow!” he muttered. “At midday,”” Madame echoed. “So you see you waste your time sitting there brooding. Come with me instead. It is an interesting neighborhood, this. I have something to show you.” “Tt is a long time,’”’ Andrew Sarle reflected, as he rose to his feet, “since I have been interested in my whereabouts. I know where we are upon the map. Thatisall. However, as.you wish it, I am ready.” Madame spent a few minutes preparing her- self, and William, from an apparently inex- haustible wardrobe, produced a gray Hom- burg hat, gloves, and cane for the visitor. Then they started off, winding their way down the narrow lane, through the strip of wood and across the broad high road to the avenue which led to the sea. They drove always very slowly, and more than once Madame brought the car to a standstill by pressing a button. She showed her companion a beautiful view, a famous garden, and later on the golf links. In the distance they could see Cardinge and Claire playing. “You played golf once, Andrew,” she reminded him. “I remember your bringing back a cup from La Boulie.” For a moment he seemed puzzled. Then he remembered. “That part of my life,”’ he confided, “‘ before the war, seems always to me as though it belonged to some other man. I played golf— I think I was quite good—and cricket before that. Those things belong to the lives of ordinary men. It is so long since my own life has been empty of all save one thing, that I have forgotten.” They drove on as far as the road went, to the verge of the great shingly beach, lapped by the Mediterranean. Andrew Sarle looked in one direction only. He ignored the beauti- ful neck of Antibes. He took no notice of a large sailing yacht close to the land. He looked stedfastly past Cap Ferrat toward Monte Carlo. “Tt seems like a waste of time,”’ he muttered. “He is so near.” “At midday to-morrow,” Madame re- minded him, ‘‘he comes to you. He will be under the same roof. You are free from all restraint. Surely that is better.” ‘To-morrow is a long time,”’ he complained. “There is another night to pass.” Madame gave an order and the car was turned round. They drove slowly past the club house. Madame Trombelle, the secre- tary, was seated at her desk, working. She raised her head for a moment as the car passed. Madame waved her hand. “That is the secretary of the golf- club,” she told her companion. “She is a French woman who appealed to me for help. I found her the place. They tell me she is very efficient.” “A war widow, perhaps?” Andrew Sarle inquired. Madame shook her head. “Her husband is alive,” she said. “There are others who are unhappy.” HE car came to a standstill again a few hundred yards farther on. Madame gave some instructions through the speaking tube. At the entrance to the valley they drew up, close to where a footpath from the golf links disappeared into a wood. Madame passed cigarets to her companion. “Here we rest for a time,” she announced. “This is a spot I always love. Let your window down, Andrew. Do you smell the orange-blossoms?”’ . ‘They are very beautiful,” he answered. “The perfume comes from that tiny villa,” she went on, “the villa from which the child has just come out. A pretty child, Andrew!” He groaned. “Children of that age,” he confessed, “always remind me of things I hate to be reminded about.” He watched her stedfastly as she passed down the footpath, and for a moment the grim imperturbability of his features was disturbed. His hand, which rested upon the window, shook. He gazed after i until she was out of sight. Then ie back in his place. He was muttering un. easily to himself. Madame looked at him curiously. “That is the daughter of the golf secre. tary,” she told him. “She is going, I sy = © —_ her mother.” . “Why do we stay here?” he asked Let us go back.” — “T always linger here for a little time’ Madame protested. “The air is beautiful There is nothing to be done before to-mor- “ * row.” “True,” he assented. “It was the child She was just about the same age as Pauline and her hair—Bah! I thought I had for. gotten those things.” “What became of your child?” Madame asked. “She took it—robbed me of her as she had of everything else.” Madame was silent. She was watching the approach of two figures along the winding footpath. “You have had some very unhappy years, Andrew,” she admitted, “but for a man of your courage you are very morbid.” “T find no rest because that man still lives,” he told her. “Even then,” she protested, “you have let yourself slip into an impossible condition, To bear sorrow with dignity is the greatest discipline in life. Look at that woman who comes—our golf secretary. She has knowna sorrow as great as yours. Still she has kept her self-respect. She has her child, her tiny villa, and she, who was born to every luxury, works for her living. What do you think of her, Andrew? She is still a beautiful woman.” Andrew Sarle leaned forward and a little cry broke from his lips. He made a quick movement to rise and then collapsed in his seat. Madame pressed the button and the car started on. She unfastened the waist- coat of the man by her side and felt his heart. Andrew Sarle had fainted. N HOUR or so later she descended from her room and found Andrew lying in her own chaise longue on the piazza. He wel- comed her eagerly. “T wanted to talk to you,” he began; “to ask you something.” “T should keep quiet, if I were you,” she advised. “I have been looking up the walk from Pau and I see that it must have been about six hundred miles. A long distance with scanty food, Andrew.” “Tt was nothing,” he assured her. “I was a little tired last night and the thought of to morrow beat all the time in my brain. I just lost control for a moment. But, Madame, tell me. I had the strangest vision just as my senses went. That child came back and 4 woman. Who was she?” “Your wife,” Madame answered, “and the child is your daughter. Now you see why! insisted. I have an eye for detail. The scene is better set here than anywhere else im the world.” “But—” Madame handed across to him the sealed envelop which she was carrying. “Your quittance,” she observed. “The price of it is your silence for twenty-four ae The scraps of torn paper fluttered. down the breeze. The man buried his face in his T a few minutes before midday on the following morning, Hugh climbed the avenue of the villa and wa welcomed upon the steps of the rose-wrea! piazza by Madame. He raised her fingers t0 his lips. “You are just in time, my friend,” she said, “to help me receive very nearly the las of your fellow Virgins. I think that it 5 Maurice Tringe’s car which climbs the there.” ; Cardinge glanced around and into the villa. “What about Sarle?”’ he asked. Madame shrugged her shoulders. : “In the end,” she acknowledged quietly “J imagine that Sarle may kill him. ¥¢ shall see!” A closed car, covered with dust, drew up at the front entrance. They - both wat curiously the descent of its solitary occupant. Madame, the imperturbable, permitted | a slight shiver. Cardinge gazed at this ne arrival with wonder. Maurice Tringe he certainly no longer a pleasant person to ® upon. He was coarse of flesh without ee absolutely stout. His cheeks were puffy His sagged a little over his nerveless mouth. £ eyes were weak and vapid. His comple was bad, his carriage gone. He sham “ rather than walked. His tone, as he spoke oi the chauffeur, was nervous and irritable. came toward them, hat in hand, but his were wandering about restlessly. | “Un “Dear Madame!” he exclaimed. (Continued on page 110) b for be

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Miss Alice Joyce introduces the “White Violet” dance frock, from Bergdorf-Goodman. ERGDORF DMAN 616 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK HARPER’S BAZAR A WORTHY QUITTANCE E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Continued from page 108) changed! And Cardinge, isn’t it? I thought I recognized you. Well, well, I am here, you see. I have obeyed.” “T am very glad to see you, Maurice,” Madame said. He stood close to her. He dropped his voice almost to a whisper. His head was never still. All the time his eyes were travel- ing around. “Tell me,” he begged, ‘‘are any of the others here? That fellow Andrew Sarle, for instance?” “Why should you ask for him especially?” Madame demanded, with well-simulated in- difference. “That fellow,” Maurice Tringe continued earnestly, ‘“‘has ruined my life. I wonder, could I have a drink?” A servant hurried forward. “Order what you will,’ Madame invited, leading the way to the further end of the piazza. ‘Cocktails will be served directly Perhaps you would like something stronger.” ‘*A little brandy,” Tringe begged, in a hoarse undertone. “Just a wineglassful— no more. I will have a cocktail afterwards. “T drink too much brandy,” he confided. “Some day or other I am going to leave off altogether. These last few years have been such a strain. And everything against me, too.” “What has been against you?” Madame asked. “Til health, for one thing,” he replied. “‘Sleeplessness—my nerve’s gone. That fellow Sarle started it. You know, of course, that there was some trouble about his wife?” “We know that you took her away,” Madame observed. “Well, well, that’s all over and done with— over and done with,” he repeated, holding out his hand eagerly for the wineglass which a servant was tendering. ‘We do these things We may say that we regret them. It makes no difference. But that fellow Sarle—he’ll murder me some day. He’s sworn to.” “Really?” Madame murmured “He followed me pretty well all round the world,” Tringe went on. “It got on her nerves, too, just as it did on mine. That’s why she left me. She couldn’t stand it any longer. She was afraid as I was afraid. It wasn't that she didn’t care—I’m convinced of that—she cared all right, but she was afraid So she went—left me without a word. I’ve been alone for seven years and I’ve scarcely slept a night without waking up and thinking I heard footsteps around the bed, or the sound of his voice—God, the nightmares I have had!” He finished the brandy and was the first to seize one of the wineglasses from the cocktail tray. He held it suspended in mid-air for a moment, on its way to his lips. Then the glass slipped from his nerveless fingers onto the tesselated floor and was smashed into atoms. Maurice Tringe’s eyes were fixed upon a window only a few yards away—an open window, so covered with crimson ramblers that scarcely its outline was lett. Something glittering had been thrust through the roses—something on which the sun was flashing—something held by invisible fingers, pointing straight to his heart. A hand brushed aside the screen of roses and a figure appeared. “My God! He is here!” Tringe groaned. “He is here at last—here!” ’ E SAT in his chair, powerless to move, fascinated, shrunken, and incoherent in the face of this horror. Andrew Sarle stepped out onto the piazza. He was pale, almost livid, and an expression of cruel joy flamed in his eyes. The pistol was still pointed at his enemy’s heart. Madame looked at him coolly. “That will do, Andrew,” she enjoined. “I am sure Maurice Tringe realizes that this is the end. Remember the truce is not up yet-— not until after lunch. Put that thing away. Come and take your apéritif. I don’t wish my servants to think that we are rehearsing a film for the cinema.” Sarle obeyed reluctantly, but without protest. The pistol dropped into his jacket pocket. He nodded to Cardinge and drank his apéritif. His fingers were quite firm. The coming of his enemy seemed to have brought him a great composure. “Tt is a trap, this,” Tringe mumbled. Madame smiled. “Do not be foolish, Remember. if you can,’ she added, ‘that the one inevitable quality of a Virgin was always courage. If there is an account to be met, it must be met. So far as regards your personal safety you have, at the worst, a clear hour before you. I hold Andrew Sarle’s word of honor that, for that time—until after the service of luncheon and we have had a brief conversation—your life shall be spared.” “‘Spared!” Tringe repeated, with an uneasy laugh. ‘His finger was upon the trigger!” ‘“*A whim of mine,’”’ Andrew Sarle confided. “T just wanted to feel that my moment had come—to feel that his life hung upon my impulse. It was a great luxury—a wonderful moment!” “Give me another cocktail,” Tringe ordered. LITTLE chime of bells announced the service of luncheon. Madame rose to her feet. “IT beg,” she said, “that you will all re member my recuest. We are in a civilized country. Whatever may come afterwards, luncheon at least remains. Come! Claire this is Major Tringe, another of the protégés of my early life. Show him the way to luncheon.” The habits of the roué by instinct are jp. eradicable. Tringe straightened his tie as he bowed and permitted his eyes, weak vessels though they were, to express his admiration, Claire led him to his place, talking to him with unexpected kindness. She had the uneasy feeling that this was a doomed man. “T had no idea that this pleasure was in store for me,” he declared, with an impressive lowering of the voice. ‘One heard nothing of Madame’s having a niece in the old days.” ‘Claire was at boarding-school in England,” Madame remarked. “As a matter of fact,” she went on coldly, “I was not then her guardian.” “You are to be congratulated upon the position, Madame,” he pronounced with a little bow, raising his glass to his lips with fingers so unsteady that a few drips of its contents were spilt upon the tablecloth “Well, I don’t know,” Madame observed, with a glance toward Cardinge. “The charge of a young girl is not an unalloyed pleasure. I have also a nephew who gives me trouble. He gambles. He is extravagant. He declines to choose a profession. He is, however, obedient. He is willing to obey my wishes in most things ” Claire smiled at Madame across the table. For some reason or other she did not feel in the least afraid of her. “TI am sure I’m most tractable,” she protested. ‘I hope you're not believing my aunt’s insinuations,” she added, turning to Tringe. ‘‘No ward could give her less trouble than I do.” ““No ward could give so much pleasure to any one lucky enough to be her guardian,” he replied with flamboyant gallantry. Again Claire vouchsafed a tolerant smile, although the man’s tone and looks were an incessant offense to her. Cardinge, with an abrupt remark, intruded into the conver- sation. He detested Claire’s temporary association with Tringe and he hid his feelings with difficulty. Madame, who watched, smiled with amusement. The _ situation appealed to her From beginning to end it was a strange meal, perfectly served as usual, with exquisite appointments of flowers, linen, and wine. Madame was an exceptionally silent hostess and Cardinge only spoke when it served his purpose. Andrew Sarle was an_ intelligent contributor of monosyllables. Tringe was garrulous and greedy in turn. “‘T see, Madame,” he remarked, “that you have not forgotten the art of having the best cook in the world. I have seldom tasted such an omelet, and this sauce—wonderful!” “T am glad that you approve,” she said. “T approve of everything,” he assured her, with a eon at Claire. “It is a great occasion, this.” “One is reminded,” Andrew Sarle observ ed, “of the famous dinners, Madame, which you used to give us in the Bois de Boulogne— generally on the eve of one of our enterprise. Everything then as now was faultless. misses only that little inscription, painted by our friend Fardell, upon the wall, with its allegorical illustrations—‘Let us eat drink and be merry, for to-morrow we die!’” ~~ set down his glass. He was momet tarily discomposed. “An unpleasant recollection,” he declared. “Why should I or any of us die to-mo After all, life is too short and big a thing to trifle with. We ought to remember When it is gone, what is there?” He watched the filling of his glass. Madame shrugged her shoulders. a ‘“‘We discuss metaphysics or religion after midnight,” she protested. “At lunch we a scarcely prepared.” : F “What I mean to say is,” Tringe continue quickly, “that life is too big a price to pay, any sin. I do not believe in capital P t ment. The war changed all my views abou that sort of thing.” % “The subject just now is rather 00 sonal,” Madame interposed drily. ie did you play last night at Monte J Maurice?” . “T played, yes,” he answered, “and wit my usual accursed luck. For years ° thing that I have touched has gone tore took two hundred pounds with me ™ (Continued on page 112) for

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Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Continued from page 110) Rooms last night, and when I came out I couldn’t tip the boy who gave me my hat. You all appear to have prospered by the look of you. I am pretty well broke. Ten years ago, I was so rich I thought myself a million- aire. To-day everything seems to have crumbled away. I have no luck—that’s what it is,” he went on. ‘Everything I touch goes against me.” H® talked on—disconnectedly—always egotistically—always with a _ tactless effort to enlist sympathy, and all the time becoming an object of greater contempt to the others. Even Claire moved her chair a little further apart. In the moments of lucidity inspired by the wine he drank, Tringe was perhaps conscious of their aversion, and in his clumsy way resented it. “There is no room for an unlucky man in the world,” he grumbled. ‘Every one shuns him. Every one points to his faults and forgets what might have driven him to them.” Madame glanced at the clock. “Serve coffee here,”’ she directed the butler. “You will excuse some slight hurry,” she addéd, turning to Tringe. “TI have given a promise to Andrew which expires in half an hour. The matter it refers to must be dealt with before then.” Tringe shivered a little as he glanced around the table. He seemed conscious of the lack of sympathy everywhere, notwithstanding his garrulous outpourings and forced spirit of bonhomie. Opposite, only a few feet away, sat the man eg had hunted him over the world, and in his expression, at any rate, there was no softening, no sign of pity. Tringe, depressed and full of forebodings, helped him- self liberally to brandy. For once it brought him no comfort. Chill fear sat in his heart. The service of the meal was concluded almost in silence. Madame rose to her feet. “Will you all come with me, please,” she said, “except Claire. I shall want you, Hugh.” She led the way to a seldom used room which opened out of her salon, an apartment less ornate than the others, but looking out upon the gardens, and pleasantly furnished. In the middle of the floor there was a table strewn with magazines. Madame took a seat at the end of it, and pointed to a chair on either side of her. “Sit down, Andrew Sarle,” she invited, “and you, Maurice Tringe. First, have either of you any weapons?” “T have a revolver,” the former admitted, “with which, IT may add,” he went on, glanc- ing at the clock, “I am not disposed to part.” “Tf it comes to that,”’ Tringe said, scowling, “T have one, too. What about it?” T a gesture from Madame, Cardinge suddenly pinioned his arms and drew the revolver from his hip pocket. Tringe spluttered with rage. “Look here,” he protested, “‘am I to be butchered in cold blood without defending myself?” “T am not inclined to trust you.’”” Madame rejoined coolly. “I should be afraid of your trying to steal a march upon Andrew and, as you would have been a dead man before now but for his promise to me, I am not running the risk of having him suffer for it. Now please listen, both of you. You once took an oath—private quarrels between members of our society were to be adjudicated by me. That oath you have probably both forgotten. I found Andrew, for instance, crossing a continent because he hoped to find you here and kill you. I persuaded him to wait. It seemed to me that there was a better way.” “There are many better ways than murder,” Tringe muttered. “You have a complaint to make against Maurice Tringe,”” Madame went on, turning to Andrew. “Can you put it into half-a- dozen sentences?” “Less,” was the fierce reply. ‘‘We were brother officers. I saved his life. When he returned from the trenches to England, leaving me in hospital, I gave him a letter to my wife. I trusted him. I trusted her, for I know that at heart she was a good woman. He robbed me of my wife. He took her away and fled all over the world to escape my vengeance. I claim the man’s right against the man who dishonors his wife—the right to kill.” Madame turned toward Maurice Tringe. “And you?” she asked. ‘‘What have you to say?” “TI had no idea what was likely to happen when I went to see her,” he explained. ‘‘ From the moment I saw her I forgot everything. It isn’t any use spouting morals. Men do forget when there’s a woman they want. I wanted her and I took her.”’ “Regardless of the fact that she was your friend’s wife and that that friend had saved your life?”” Madame murmured. “Regardless of anything,” he retorted. “She was of the same mind. The , nothing else to be done.” here was “Then you are now, I suppose, prepared t pay the price?” ‘ “This is all theatrical tommy-rot,” Tringe declared savagely. ‘‘Why doesn’t he Zo to the law courts like any other reasonable person? Men don’t kill one another nowa- days for a thing like this. If they did there would be half-a-dozen murders in the Paper every day.” “And, on the other hand,” Madame pointed out icily, “if they did, men would probably leave their friends’ wives alone. You see civilization does not always make for progress I think the code of the Zulus, for instance who kill, is more moral than the code of the Englishman who goes to the law. . . But one moment! There is some one else to be heard.” “‘Some one else!”’ Tringe muttered. ARDINGE shad rung the bell. No servant answered it, but in a moment the door was softly opened and closed. Madame Trombelle entered. As she walked into the light Sarle rose to his feet, still pale, shaking in every limb. Tringe was crouching against the table, his eyes fixed fearfully upon her, the veins in his temples standing out like ugly cords. “Pauline!” he gasped. ‘‘My God! What brought you here?” She made no answer. She looked steadily at Madame. She stood at the end of the table, silent and motionless—a wasted but still a beautiful woman. “Pauline,” Madame said, “you are con- cerned in this matter. Have you anything to say? “Yes,” was the quiet reply. “TI desire to tell the truth, even though it may seem that I am trying to excuse myself. I loved my husband, Andrew. I never had any real feeling—for that man.” She indicated Tringe with a gesture of hate. The contempt in her soul broke through her effort at unemotionalism. “He came as my husband’s friend,” she went on. “I was twenty-two years old, bored, idiotically fond of pleasure. From the very first he had but one idea concerning me. I should say that he has but one idea con- cerning any woman. I sent him away twice. He came back repentant. The third time he brought a yacht. We were to go for a short cruise. I have little to say about that. We did not return.” “And afterwards?’’ Madame asked. “Very soon afterwards,’’ Pauline continued, “‘T discovered that he was a coward. He was terrified to death of Andrew. We lived as fugitives for over two years. There was no peace nor any happiness for me. After that I began to realize the ignominy of my position. The man to whom I had given my life was a coward. He was not even faithful. He was already on the highroad to becoming what you see him now. At San Fransisco he brought a friend, an actress, from one of the smaller theatres, on board. I left, traveling overland to New York. I have not seen him since until to-day. That was seven years ago. Since then I have supported my child some- how or other. Through the kindness of Madame I obtained the post of golf secretary here two years ago.” Andrew raised his head. He looked at her for a moment, speechless. There was a little gulp in his throat. “Vou had half my fortune,” he reminded her. “So far as I know the money is still in the bank,” she answered. “TI have’ never drawn a check since the day he came.” Madame glanced at the clock. “Andrew,” she said, “there are still seven minutes. I require to speak to Maurice Tringe alone. Please be so good as to escort your wife from the room.” : , There was a moment’s hesitation. Pauline was looking across at him with a wonderful appeal in her eyes. She held out her han ds. Andrew moved toward her. They left the room together, her hand resting upon Ms shoulder, as though for support. Maurice Tringe watched them with the light of a new hope in his face. He laughed huskily as the door closed behind them—a smothered, ut pleasant sound. Then he turned eagerly to Madame. ; “Well, that’s all right,” he exclaimed. ““They’re going to make it up.” Pi “They may,” Madame assented. But what about you?” “Well, I’ll say I’m sorry. I can’t do more. You see what the whole thing’s done for me- I’ve suffered. It’s broken me. I'm il— miserably ill,” he went on. “‘ My doctor tells me that my heart is diseased. I have only @ few years to live anyhow. Let them go away and leave me in peace.” “Andrew will not do that,” Madame assured him. ‘He claims the right to you, and he will kill you.” (Concluded on page 122)

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for FEBRUARY 1925 VERY OLD AMBER Mildred Cram’s Story (Continued from page 61) the sort. “I think I love him very much,” she said gravely _ And she flushed from throat to forehead, as Bardet thought she had for- gotten how to flush, 3 ? “Then why in heaven's name did you kiss me a few minutes ago? ” he demanded, “Did I?” Greta’s eyes grew reminiscent. “Tt’s so hard to break a habit, Bardy.’ ‘ “But you might feel that way again.’ “Oh, I shall. I’m awfully fond of you. You’re my best friend. I like to talk to you. Best of all, I like to travel with you—you’re so dependable and unchangeable. ste Do you remember Capri, that first year? Did he remember? Greta was twenty-one, a slender, brown, firm-fleshed little creature ring at life on tiptoe. She had married im, as she did everything, in a spirit of reck- Jess curiosity. Bardet Folsom was supposed to be an enigma, even then. His black eyes, wickedly mischievous, the spirited cut of his profile, the almost immoral perfection ot his clothes, gave him a reputation he did not at all deserve. There was nothing mysterious about him save his appreciation of the human comedy. His own family never guessed that he was romantic. And he had wooed Greta with his tongue in his cheek, wondering, if she accepted him, how long it would last He could not hope to hold a creature so intol- erant, so insatiable. She would drink at this source, at that, and then one day she would see her own reflection and guess how potential she was. Bardet Folsom laid the personal opportunities of wealth at her feet and in- trigued her a good deal by accepting her cool little caresses as if they were sufficient in them- selves. Greta Bartley had a feeling that she had collided with an immovable body. “‘ Yes, I'll marry you, Bardy. You're the only man I’ve ever met who doesn’t bore me.” ND they went off to Capri, an island of sunlight and pink villas and caves and yellow broom and wild people who gave wild parties by moonlight. Greta swam in the Marina, wearing a one-piece bathing suit that attracted a mob of German tourists and Italian invalids. Her long, amber-colored hair, smooth and shining, her greatest beauty, floated around her like a delicate, fine-spun seaweed. She was one of the sirens come back to bother any modern Ulysses who failed to stop up his ears. Bardet Folsom sat on a rock in the sunlight, pretending that he did not see the crowds, or Greta. And Greta watched him out of half-shut eyes, wondering why her husband should be impervious when strangers were not. Did he remember Capri? “Why remind me of things that are over and done with, Greta? The past is the past. At present we are concerned with a young man—By the way, how old is Mr. Travers, my dear?” “Twenty-five.” “How crisply you say it!” You think he’s too young for me? 7 think you are ageless.” How well you put it! Bardy, Bardy, don t tell me you are jealous of his youth?” I am thinking of your happiness, Greta. It would be tragic, for you, if he were one of those children who refuse to grow up.” “Now, I think, I hate you.” Something deep and unrecognizable in Folsom wanted to cry out, weep, rage. For the first time he was helpless. He moved to- ward the door, strolling, as always, with a slight shrug of his shoulders, because he did not want Greta to know the extent of his hurt. ‘Bardy!” she called him back. She had flung herself down in a chair and Was contemplating the buckles on her bronze a. hn Ret I didn’t want to el; really idn’ ‘an’t we ie hima didn’t. Can’t we go on He smiled at her. op apa you might talk to Rolf—” ov , a... . have to get used to it, Bardy. se l want you to divorce me. I’m goi to marry him,” a BARDET FOLSOM sat down facing her. The recognizable world had gone dark - queer; it was all askew. He managed ates, 3 Claneet ereditably and holding it at dimly nd te on He was beginning, eae ae The legal stepping-stones are _ M ‘_) are on the other side, in his one nd je is poor... . How do you : - you willlike it? A flat in Harlem. The ee waiter, And the mock-turtle soup in high, “ae Rost eccustomed to running in nt think ord has only two speeds ahead.” nk you're absurd.” Greta’s eyes Bry again. Then she laughed. “Per- € out to dinner occasionally, n to a play. I couldn’t do ty shut her out. He rose 7 ag heard a summons : tad he been a Frenchmz he would have kissed her hand As it was, he made a flippant, scarcely discernible gesture which meant: “I kiss your hand.” “Ask Mr. Travers to dinner,” he said. “‘To-night will do. The sooner the better. Afterwards, I'll go to the club. Or you can go to your mother ” Greta’s eyes flew around the room. She seemed to gather all that perfection, that expensive loveliness to herself, to wrap it around herself, to keep out a sense of chill and deprivation. She surrendered it all again. bravely. “T’ll go,” she said. “After all, this isn’t mine any longer. But I thank you for it, Bardy. I thank you for everything Only what I am going to have is more real, more mine—don’t you understand—because I love the man who is going to give it to me?” Bardet Folsom left her then. It seemed to him that there was only one thing, under the circumstances, to do. To walk Thank God, it was raining. He took his hat and a light overcoat trom the man in the hallway, and went out, con- scious of the heavy closing of the plate glass and iron-gnilled door. Shut out of his own house! For no matter whether or riot he lived there, it wasn't his without Greta. He had built it for her, 1n a moment of security, believing that at last he dared claim happi- ness. Too soon! He had been a fool to take Greta for granted. She had sensed the imperceptible tightening of the reins, perhaps, and had bolted over the first fence—to green pastures! HE AVOIDED a large car that turned into Madison Avenue, and rather more nimbly sought the Avenue, turning down- town, instinctively seeking the warm contact of life, young life pouring out of the shops at this hour, pouring uptown. He could imagine Greta, released from the nervous moment of confession, at the telephone, whispering her invitation, her promise, this strangely new and marvelous hope of hers. How on earth had he, who had loved her first, managed to miss it? For him she had been cool, tull of a misty sort of correctness, a Dresden delicacy, a brit- tle perfection. Lovely! Strange! Desirable! But never, for an instant, his! And he had been fool enough to believe that she liked his way, because they were both fastidious, both restless, both fond of rare, elusive things, people, places. Why, confound it, she had never done an ordinary thing until she tell in love with this fellow! She had always been an artist in life—her very reserves were more thrilling than another woman’s excesses! He had been what he believed she wanted him to be; but, more than that, he had been himself, because to be anything else was impossible. To be anything else was not to be thought of. He liked himself quite well as he was. Indeed, he might be a much less desirable sort and still not lose the wife ot his bosom to a dec- orator. He laughed aloud, and a pretty woman in a raincoat thought he had laughed at her. She gave him a grave, reproachtul look be- fore she left the curb, and, like a graceful duck, took to traffic. Folsom stood a mo- ment staring after her. “The wife of my bosom,” he said. The phrase pleased him. It was, for Bardet Folsom, revolutionary. He turned downtown again, and found him- self staring into Zoorian’s window. The shop was open, and in the glow of a small Oriental lamp a set of particularly fine ambers glowed like cats’-eyes—a necklace, a bracelet, great, sweeping, regal earrings. Bardet Folsom went into the shop. Holding the precious string in his hands was like touching Greta herself—there was the same effect of lambent fire and surface coolness, the same indifference and perfection. And he wanted to put his head down on the square ot black velvet spread upon the coun- ter by Zoorian’s assistant, and cry. This was not the time for patience and wisdom. He was losing her. . . . He swept the amber into his coat-pocket and gave a check to Zoorian. Then he walked quickly home again through a blue twilight that fell on the city like gauze veils. He liked the little red and green and yellow lights whisking in and out, reflected in the black, shining pavements. On any other night, he would have been aware of a warm pulse, the satisfying stir of pleasant emotions, the consciousness of being fully and completely alive in the best of possible worlds. It was hard for Bardet Folsom to be melancholy, since nothing had ever happened to him, until Greta fell in love with a stranger, to shake his faith in the ultimate good of all things. Even now, his reaction was characteristic. It would be all right. Only let him keep his head and give Greta hers, and the universe would swing back to normal. Sooner or later, she would turn to him. In the meantime, it was his duty to see that she did not hurt her- self. Greta was thirty, Travers twenty-five (Continued on page 116) Every mother should tell her daughter this A new way in woman’s hygiene, today adopted by 5 million women The scientifically correct way approved by Doctors and Nurses By ELLEN J. BUCKLAND, Graduate Nurse If five million women adopt, practically overnight, a new way in personal hygiene, surely it is worth knowing about—at least worth giving a trial. Today mothers everywhere are telling their daughters of this new way which has revolutionized woman’s personal life. They give thanks their daughters need never know the old-fashioned makeshifts—unhygienic, dangerous to health—that this new way supplanted. This new way is Kotex, widely urged by doctors and nurses. And it is as a nurse that I urge you to try it. Kotex is used in practically all hospitals today. in the better walks of life. And by eight women in ten The advantages of Kotex Many discomforts common to women, doctors say, are directly traceable to makeshift sanitary methods. Much of the loss of charm, of the feminine immaculacy expected at all times, is chiefly due to the same reason. Every woman knows this to be true. Kotex is a sanitary pad made of Cellucotton, the world’s super-ab- sorbent. It absorbs 16 times its own weight in moisture. It is 5 times as absorbent as cotton. Besides that, each Kotex pad is im- pregnated with a new secret deodorant which our scientists recently dis- covered. It is the result of years of laboratory experiment and research. Another important advantage is that it can be discarded simply, without the least bother or embarrass- ment—just like a piece of tissue. Kotex is germ-proof, packed in sani- tary sealed packages of twelve. In two sizes, the Regular and Kotex-Super. Kotex Regular, now 60c All drug and department stores have Kotex—ready-wrapped in plain paper. There are no questions to ask or answer, no needless conversation. Simply pay the clerk and walk out, that is all. Easy to get— anywhere Today, get Kotex, deodorized. Learn what it has come to mean to the millions of women who have adopted it. Or if you will write to me, I will send you free, a sample of the new deodorized Kotex, and an interesting booklet, written by an eminent doctor on this important subject. Your letter will be treated confidentially, of course, and the sample will come in plain, unmarked wrapper. Just address me ELLEN J. BUCKLAND, G. N. Care of Cellucotton Laboratories 166 West Jackson Blvd., Chicago, Ill. Kotex-Super, now 90c KOT Ge DEODORIZED 113

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a HARPER’S BAZAR® j | ale Every woman wants a lovely figure and so ELIZABETH ARDEN has created in her Salons a Department of Exercise where you may grow slim and graceful as is the mode. pee A EES | The Perfumes of BABANI of PARIS will increase your charm! ELIZABETH ARDEN has created a new mode for blending these chic fragrances, so that every woman may have a personal formula for an individual BABANI PERFUME. 1) Wiirnovut doubt, these lovely perfumes of Babani in- crease your personal charm. They surround you with an aura of fragrance, a subtle influence of exquisite beauty. They make you more lovely, more interesting, more chic. They are the favored perfumes of the most distinguished women of Paris, London and America. Elizabeth Arden has created a new mode which makes the use of Babani Perfumes an enchanting art! She suggests that you choose two or more Babani Perfumes—each one expressive of a phase of your personality—and blend them to develop a new perfume harmony, a private formula for your own fragrance! What more exquisite way of emphasizing your individual charms? GIARDINI (newest) AMBRE DE DELHI $9.50, $12 $2.75, $7, $9, $12 LIGEIA $2.75, $7, $9.50, $10 MING $2.75, $6.50, $9, $9.50 AFGHANI $2.75, $7, $9, $9.50 CHYPRE $2.75, $7, $9, $12.50 SOUSOUKI E $2.75, $6.50, $9, $12 JASMIN DE COREE $2.75, $6.50, $8.50, $9.50 YASMAK $2.75, $7, $9.50, $12 Babani Perfumes are on sale at the Salons of Elizabeth Arden—at the big 5th Avenue stores—and at more than 1200 smart shops all over the world ABAN] Perfumes of Paris Presented by ELIZABETH ARDEN DE CAMERON, INC., 681 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK EXCLUSIVE AGENTS FOR BABANI IN AMERICA MooTH lines, firm muscles, lithe movements, young nerves—these are the products of Elizabeth Arden’s Depart- ment of Exercise. The most perishable spot in a woman's appearance 1s her neck. How seldom is the neck a straight smooth column! But Elizabeth Arden can make it so! Lift and strengthen neck- muscles that are relaxed, flabby, sagging. Reduce and mould a neck that is fat and bunchy. Make yours a beautiful neck, no matter how unlovely it may be today. Another tragic admission of years—or of neg- lect—is a thicken- ing of the figure below the waist- line. The muscles about the hips are so quick to grow big and solid, when they should be flat and lithe for a graceful fig- ure. Elizabeth Arden can teach you how to reduce LONDON: 25 Old Bond Street PARIS: 2 rue de la Paix BOSTON: 192 Boylston Street WASHINGTON: 1147 Connecticut Ave. ATLANTIC CITY: Ritz-Carlton Block the hips, lift and firm the ab- domen, and create slim contours that will be a joy to you, and to your modiste! Begin today to mould your body. A course of Exercises at Elizabeth Arden’s Salon will quite transform your appear- ance. Each movement is pre- scribed especially for you, to beautify just the line, the con- tour, the pose which you wish to improve. And your health and good spirits will be trans- formed, too. For the improved circulation will retard old age, banish every feeling of depres- sion and fatigue. Telephone today for yout first half-hour of Exercise at Eliza beth Arden’s. 7 7 If you cannot come to the Salon, you can use Elizabeth Arden’s Ex- ercises for Health and Beauty at home with mse results. Write and ask about the Home Course and the Records. DeMeyer ELIZABETH ARDEN 673 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO: 233 Grant Avenue LOS ANGELES: 600 West 7th Street DETROIT: 318 Book Building PALM BEACH: Beaux Art Building CANNES: Hotel Royal pope sas PE eae

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Now, when the Social Season taxes your skin most, Elizabeth Arden warns you to care faithfully for its loveliness < jem month is the height of the social season everywhere. And so it is ex- ceedingly important to be fresh-skinned and lovely each day. Yet these days—full of parties, hurry, sweets, shopping and cold winds—tax the skin to the utmost. More than ever, your complexion needs wise and faithful care. Keep it correctly cleansed, toned and nourished, according to Elizabeth Arden’s method, and it will be beautiful at all times. Especially now, when hot rooms and inching cold combine to rob the skin of its natural oils, the tissues need regular treatment with pure delicate skin foods. This is an important step in every Elizabeth Arden Treatment, and should be a part of your daily care of the skin at home. Under the skilled fingers of one of Elizabeth Arden’s assistants, the muscles of the face and neck are patted and moulded with ex- quisite creams—creams so fine and light of texture that they are easily absorbed by the skin without clogging its pores. It is this step in an Elizabeth Arden Treatment which keeps the skin fine in grain, elastic in quality, soft in texture and translucently fair in tone. Then— with Ardena Skin Tonic and Spe- cial Astringent —the muscles are lifted, toned, firmed, strengthened, till the con- tour is keen and smooth as a girl’s. This is a part of Elizabeth Arden’s method in which she is quite supreme. Patting and moulding of the contour scientifically, to correct sagging cheeks and flabby neck, Elizabeth Arden originated as a funda- mental step in her famous Muscle-Strap- ping Skin-Toning Treatments. You can follow this same method in the care of your skin at home. Elizabeth Arden’s book “The Quest of the Beautiful,’’ which may be had on request, describes a correct morning and night treatment step by step. If you will write describing the character- istics and faults of your skin, Elizabeth Arden will outline a special course of home treatments suited to your individual requirements. The Arden Venetian Toilet Prepa- rations and Babani Perfumes are on sale at smart shops everywhere 2)

«An ELIZABETH ARDEN ‘Treatment Elizabeth Arden recommends these Preparations for your care of the skin at home: Venetian Cleansing Cream and Ardena Skin Tonic. The erfect combination for cleansing and refreshing the skin, much to Be preferred to soap and water. Cleansing Cream, $1, $2, $3, $6. Skin Tonic, 85c, $2, $3.75. Venetian Orange Skin Food. A rich nourishing cream, the best deep tissue builder, keeps the skin full and firm, rounds out wrinkles, lines and hollows. $1, $1.75, $2.75, $4.25. Venetian Velva Cream. A delicate skin food for sensitive skins. Recommended also for a full face, as it nourishes without fattening. $1, $2, $3, $6. Venetian Special Astringent. For flaccid cheeks and neck. Lifts and strengthens the tissues, tightens the skin. $2.25, $4. Venetian Muscle Oil. A penetrating oil rich in the elements which restore sunken tissues or flabby muscles. $1, $2.50, $4. Venetian Anti-Brown Spot Ointment. Whitens the skin wonderfully, rejuvenates a coarse, thick, relaxed or sunburned skin. Jar, for 12 home treatments, $5. Venetian Pore Cream. Greaseless astringent cream, closes open pores, corrects their inactivity. Smooth over coarse pores at bed- time. $1, $2.50. Venetian Créme de France and Lille Lotion. A new com- bination that is excellent to give a soft, smooth, natural bloom to the skin. Beautifies exceedingly. Créme de France, $1.25; Lille Lotion, in six shades, $1.50, $2.50. Poudre d’Illusion. Exquisite powder, fine, pure, flattering, in a satin lined box. I//usion (a peach blend), Rachel, Ocre, White, $3. Postage paid on mail orders exceeding Ten Dollars ELIZABETH ARDEN LONDON: 25 Old Bond Street BOSTON: 192 Boylston Street PALM BEACH: Beaux Art Building

NEW YORK, 673 FIFTH AVENUE WASHINGTON: 1147 Connecticut Ave. SAN FRANCISCO: 233 Grant Avenue LOS ANGELES: 600 West 7th Street ATLANTIC CITY: Ritz-Carlton Block

THREE GIRLS T is extraordinary how little women vary from country to country, and yet how different is their treatment. If I had had the good fortune to be born a woman, I should have liked to be an Amer- ican girl until the age of twenty- four, and after that have been con- verted into an English wife. The happiest girl in the world is the American girl, while the happiest wife is the English wife. To be French, whether in girlhood or in womanhood, is a more complicated affair. The American girl has everything her own way. Men shower upon her attentions, compliments, seats at the theatre, large boxes of candy, colossal bouquets. The young mar- ried woman seems to be comfortably seated upon a cushion stuffed with dollar bills, and told to stay there and be happy. Meanwhile the Eng- lish girl lives a curious semi-effaced life. She is given presents at appro- priate times, seldom very expensive. She receives a moderate amount of flattery and of affection, but it is well understood that she is of no great account until she marries. At an English hotel or an English country house, not the girls, but the young women fill the motor cars and the hearts. Men hold that mar- ried women are more amusing, and that the best thing a girl can do is to marry and get that over. In France, the situation has changed in the last twenty or thirty years. But even today one must still return one’s dancing partner to the hovering mamma. But with mar- riage comes a sudden flowering into liberty. The young French girl has never received a present except from arelative, has never dined or ]unched alone with a man. Now, suddenly, she may go alone anywhere . . . so long as she is not found out. She may receive presents . . . so long as she knows how to explain them. And she may hear anything . . . so long as no other ear is open. It takes tact, being French. But so far as I can see, the Amer- ican wife loses her husband on the wedding day. The day before, he be- haves like a picture on a magazine cover; the day after the honeymoon, he goes back to his office and never comes out again. If they have an en- gagement and business calls him, his wife goes alone. If she wants to talk to him, he has a conference. If shecomplains, he gives her a present. So it is sad to watch the American girl circling the social glade like a mayfly. The mayfly dies; the Amer- ican girl marries. —W. L. GEORGE PARIS: 2 rue de la Paix DETROIT: 318 Book Building CANNES: Hotel Royal

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NIE couturier IS SHOWING AN IMPORTANT COLLECTION OF EXQUISITE GOWNS AND COATS FOR SPRING AND SUMMER TIME AT THEIR SALONS 374 Rue St.Honoreé Paris (Near Place Vendéme) COUTURE FOURRURES SPORTS Youth, life and activity inspire the Bernard creations Spring Collection of Models Shown by Appointment Starting February 3rd BERNARD et CIE. 35 AVENUE DE L’OPERA PARIS HARPER’S BAZAR VERY OLD AMBER Mildred Cram’s Story (Continued from page 113) And Greta was old for thirty—as old as the immemorial Helen. What would Travers make of that quality of hers, that artistic combination of slimness, youth, vivacity and age-old wisdom? “Artful cat of Egypt!” Bardet Folsom remarked to a boy who was carrying a pyramid of striped hat boxes. “Aw, g’wan!” the boy said. “You're soused.” But Folsom was not soused. He was too sober for comfort. W HAT on earth had happened? Even in a day of facile divorces, of matrimonial legerdemain, this was a bit thick. . . . His own front door swung open again, he was deftly deprived of his overshoes, and, going clean-shod up-stairs, he rapped at Greta’s door. “Come in!”’ she called. She was dressing for dinner, seated before a small table upon which bottles and jars, mirrors and scissors, pastes and perfumes were spread out for her exploratory finger- tips. She dipped now in this one, now in that. “Hello, Bardy! He'll come.” Bardet Folsom held out his hand, and in the palm of it Greta saw the coiled ambers. Her eyes grew wide and dark. She seemed to hold her breath. ““Not—not for me?”’ “Why, yes, for you.” Suddenly she leaped up, furious, white- faced, her hair cascading about her shoulders. “T thought you knew better than that!” Bardet Folsom looked down at the jewels. He smiled. There was something about his smile that belied everything he happened at the moment to feel. The most superficial observer would have said that he found Greta vulgar, whereas he found her the most desirable of women. He put the ambers back in his pocket and left the room. "THERE was nothing for it, now, but to see the affair through. Dinner was well served, not interminable, and Greta had had the Venetian glass set out. She could afford to be extravagant in the matter of decoration, for was this not her betrothal supper? She wore brown draperies, gold leaves in her hair and as many jeweled bracelets as her slender arms could lift. They winked and glittered and flashed in the light of the glass-shaded candles. Travers sat between his host and hostess, trying to strike a balance between the natural elation of the successful suitor and the sorrow appropriate to sinners, with just the right touch of sympathy for his fiancée’s husband. All in all, he was admirable. Bardet Folsom had not expected a farce, but he had hoped fora comedy. He enjoyed his dinner, and so, to his astonishment, did Travers. Greta suffered. Whenever the servant’s back was turned, her eyes flew from Travers to Folsom and back again, as if she expected them to leap at each other. Travers was enormously serious. What Bardet Folsom had by reason of a facile in- heritance, he intended to have by reason of his own superiority. He intended to succeed. He looked forward with serene, honest, sted- fast eyes to a future cut to his liking. He could not fail because he believed in himself rather more than is given most men to believe in themselves. He was terribly in earnest about periods, styles, American art, cornices, the Gothic tradition, personality in archi- tecture, gardens, the Byzantine, modernism, and what-not. He scratched plans on the surface of Greta’s painted table. He made little monuments with glasses and cups. He explained, earnestly and with profound em- phasis, just how he intended to succeed, with or without capital. He couldn’t fail. There was no one like him in the country. FTER coffee, Bardet Folsom kindled a fire in the library grate. This was a ceremony he preferred to perform himself, and he did it, as he did everything, with an air of ironic detachment. First, a few crum- pled pieces of newspaper. Then kindling, set cross-wise. Then a short log. Then more paper, more kindling, a big log. And on top, like a coronet, a lump of cannel coal. “Tt is like making onion soup,” he explained, as he struck a match and applied it to the furthermost layer of newspaper. A wisp of smoke curled up the chimney, followed by a crisp chatter of small sticks. Tongues of flame curled out and up, licking at the birch logs, caressing the cheek of that lump of shiny black coal. . “How beautifully you do it!” Greta ex- claimed. “It always burns. It never goes out!” She leaned forward, and lighted her cigaret at that single, sufficient match. And Bardet Folsom saw, with a shock of horror and pity, that she had been crying. There were shad- ows beneath her eyes, the suspicion of a red- ness, a blurring over her clear beauty. It was as if a crayon drawing by Leonardo had been rubbed by a careless finger. “Don’t you see, both of you,” she said tremulous now, “that I am sick to death of all this talk about houses and careers and money? I brought you here to talk about me. This is my tragedy, not yours, Bardet, and not yours, Rolf. When I married, I was a fool. I thought because I was pretty and pert and fashionable, Bardet ought to be glad to have me. I took everything he gave me and never earned any of it. Don’t raise your eyebrows at me! I was afraid of you. You knew s9 much more than I did! You laughed at me, Don’t interrupt me! I was a funny child who amused you. Never, never your wife! You didn’t want me to be! And all the time I was trying to be the sort of woman you like—the silky, snaky, cold-eyed, deadly female of the species. Cloth of gold and old amber! The sort of a woman who kills with a glance, Why, Rolf—both of you!” She flung out her arms, and the jeweled bracelets twinkled, “T’m just Greta. I’ve been cheated out of myself. I want to begin at the beginning.” She began to cry again. “Rolf, tell me, amI too old to try?” “Don’t be absurd,” Travers said. He turned to Bardet Folsom and made a gesture of resignation. He seemed to suggest that all women are alike and that the best of them are beyond understanding. ‘What has age to do with it?” BARDET'S face was rapt. He stared at the top of Greta’s head as if he saw her for the first time. He saw how transported she was by her dream. Like everyone else, she thought that happiness lay in the past, and she was willing to smash the present, if only she could recapture the lost magic, the play of sunlight, the laughter, the hope, the blessed unfulfilment, the tense limbs, the deep breath, the excitement, the glory of youth. At thirty, she had lost it, and it was perhaps his fault. He could not help it, exactly, if nature had given him the wrong exterior. It was his fate to move through life looking as if he had just tossed off the dregs. Poor Greta! Poor child! She should have her Rolf, her simple begin- nings. He heard himself begging her not to cry. “Tt will be very simple. Now that I have recovered from my surprise—” “You were surprised?” Travers insisted. “Oh, very. I did not guess. Either you were most circumspect, or since my day these things—”’ “Bardy!” Then a miracle happened. Bardet Folsom forgot his pride. It crumbled into a little heap of dust within him, crumbled down, vanished. He cared only for what happened to Greta. As for himself, he could wait for the ultimate fulfilment, whatever it might be. The impersonal, perhaps, or an expurgated content, an acceptance devoid of gratification —old age. In a different voice, he said: “I suggest that Greta go to Paris for a year. I will stay here long enough to make certain that Mr. Travers is well started. I am not without friends. And my friends occasionally build houses. When the amiable and juninquisitive foreign law has set Greta free, I will go to—well, say, Sandaaken, where I can study the water buffalo in its native mud. . . . Very . . . . Now, Greta, smile for us! The secret of happiness lies in recognizing it before it gets away from you.” Greta crumpled down in her chair, then, and cried in earnest. I" WAS, indeed, a simple matter. Things moved more easily for Bardet Folsom than they are likely to move for a man of cash assets. First Bardet, then Greta went to Paris, whence she wrote to Bardet who was New York again: “It is beastly cold and rains every day. I can not, even as heartless as! am, live too awfully well at your expens: Therefore I am hibernating in a five-room # across the river, with a cook and no I am terribly homesick. Whenever it stops raining, I take a cab and visit the places ¥e used to enjoy together—the little park of the Luxembourg; the grove behind Pre the antiquary in the Rue des Saints Péres, and B the Punch and Judy shows in the Bos © French children still wear very short ci s and white kid gloves and scream: ‘Mam'sdld Regardez!’ You remember? I go to these places, where we have been together, and amt very sad. What a pity that you and I were i happy. We are so much alike. Every day Le mm wonder more whether I can make a success : marriage with Rolf. He is so very superior a Bardet Folsom did not show Greta’s lets to Rolf Travers. eae That young man was going ahead, — out with both arms toward his goal. He Bardet think of a swimmer doing the Austt® lian crawl down Wall Street. He was a3 Se less and as pig-headed as the man who — the Channel, and Bardet Folsom t - himself as the bottle-feeder in the pursuili motor-boat, offering occasional nourishmest q (Continued on page 118) d

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jor FEBRUARY 1925 These exquisite materials are used by the greatest Paris dressmakers

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118 ‘WHEREVER YOu LIve— You May Buy Your PEerruMeE ON THE RUE DELA Paix peach, American woman who completes the : chic of her toilette with Dans La Nuit,” said the s W orth who created this smartest of all per- . receive this fragrance of Paris —bottled, packed and sealed in its Paris wrappings just as it comes to the smart Parisienne who steps from her motor into my salon on the Rue de la Paix.’ May be ere only in the following smart shops : Franklin Simon & Co. New York, N.Y. Gladding Dry Goods Co, Providence, R. I. Philadelphia, Pa. Sachs Harrisburg, Pa. rank R. Jelleff, Inc. Washington, D.C. imelhoch Bros. _ Detroit, Mich. Johnstown, Pa. ’ Pittsburgh, Pa. eland, Ohio Aflanta, Ga. Chicago , Ill. Talsa, Okla. Oklahoma City, Okla. Denver, Colo. San Francisco, Calif. Houston, Texas El Paso, Texas Richmond, Va. Boston, Mass. Chattanooga, Tenn. Los Angeles, Calif. Hartford, Conn. Tf the dealer in your city has not ore appointed, write for particulars to Franklin Simon @ Co. Fifth Avenue, New York Sole Representative in America For Worth — Dans La Nuit Perfumes to the ambitious one and cheering him on. A country house was deftly transferred from Strethlow and Giddings’ office to the more modest office of Travers, Incorporated, and Bardet Folsom was informed that his protégé was a “wonder, a baby giant of an architect. Why, I tell you, Bardet, he is worth his weight in gold.” Once under way, there was no stopping him. He dashed from success to success. An orangerie at Southampton, a skyscraper in Baltimore. A small and expensive cottage in Ridgefield. And to cap the climax, the largest hotel on the Pacific coast. “T think I can leave you,” Bardet Folsom remarked, “and go safely to Sandaaken.”’ They were dining at Rolf Travers’ club, to which he had very recently been elected. In a room made memorable by the justness of its proportions, the leading architects of the city talked shop during the luncheon hour of a hot midsummer day. Roif Travers was correctly dressed, every crease impervious to the weather, and he had taken to wearing horn- rimmed spectacles. “Thanks to you,” he said to Bardet Fol- som, “it won’t be long before I am on my feet. Mrs. van Pell is thinking of building a dupli- cate of Isola Bella on an island in Lake George—a five years’ job, at least. I am to have the terraces and gardens as well... . It might be wise to take larger offices, and a few really good young draughtsmen, Beaux Arts men, if possible. I thought you might look at a suite at One Hundred and One, and advise me.” O, BARDET FOLSOM decided, he was not needed. By the time Greta was free, there would be no danger of flats in Harlem and ready-made clothes. She wrote him: “I am a resident of Paris! Very soon, I will be home. I think I am very thin, even for me. I was so depressed yester- day that I went with Susan Hillary to Moly- neux and bought a negligée that you would love. Just your sort. Lots of subtle drapery and fur on the sleeves. By the way, Bardy, what became of the ambers we fought over that ugly night? I was awfully surly, wasn’t I? Give them to some pretty woman and forgive me. Rolf writes that Helen van Pell is going to out-pope the popes at Lake George. How thrilled I am! How wonderful he is! I feel like a bride making ready to meet her lord. Young! Young! And proud. He wears the favor I tossed him when he was an obscure jouster—my middle-aged devotion. Bardy, he is only twenty-six, and I am thirty-one, and oh, so wise!” Bardet Folsom put this letter, together with the others, in the small safe in the library. And, quietly smiling, he packed for a long journey. The day he heard from a French lawyer that he might consider himself free, and Madame to be congratulated, he set sail for Borneo. He preferred not to be in New York when Mrs. Greta Folsom arrived. It was as hot in Borneo as he could have wished. There were pretty women in the official colony, wilted, pale, drowsy, and foolishly alert for adventure, who made him ache with longing for Greta. She was like a draught of iced tea; she was infinitely cool and desirable. But she was not his. She had married Rolf Travers and had gone to live in a “very small house on Ninth Street.” Bardet Folsom could imagine her there, painting the walls a “precious pea-green,” making chintz curtains, and giving Rolf Travers’ friends tea in a drawing-room that was certain to have a black satin sofa and a “quaint” white marble mantel. Travers’ friends would be artistic. They would talk to Greta of their careers and some of the men would sit on black satin cushions at her feet and stare too hard at her slippers. Bardet Folsom caught himself wondering whether she still wore bronze slippers with big buckles and heels like stilts. . Something had happened to his smile. It had deepened into a permanent, an in- destructible twist of ironic amusement. He had discovered that in the life of a man, a woman can be an audience, a cheer-leader, and a goddess; that without her, the most rare adventure fails to thrill because there is no one to tell it to. He had always believed that he was looking out for Greta; now he knew that Greta had supervised every breath he drew, and that, whether she willed it or no, he was cut to her pattern and of no earthly use to any other woman but Greta, Greta, who had transferred her creative genius to a man who was intent on cutting out his own pattern. “Fool! Fool!” Bardet Folsom thought, ““‘Why did I let her go?” She had given him the only security he had, and the only kisses that were worth the name. HEN he left Sandaaken and went to Egypt and met Agatha Glover. Agatha Glover was nineteen. She was an amazinz, audacious, fuzzy- HARPER’S BAZAR f VERY OLD AMBER Mildred Cram’s (Continued from page 116) Story * PRG haired, gorgeous, terrifying flapper, as tall as Bardet, and as graceful as an Ocean-goin yacht. Bardet, holding her in his arms as they waltzed to “Marcheta,” played by an Egyp- tian orchestra, thought: “If Greta can go in for youth and beginnings, so, by George can I.” And at that moment Agatha Glover lifted her head and smiled at him. Now love is one of the most mysterious of man’s per- sistent habits. Bardet Folsom was lonely, he was tormented by the memory of lost ile. sions, and, most puzzling of all, he was still eager, at forty-odd, to prove the unprovable and to return with the sheaves. He found himself glancing over Agatha’s fuzzy aureole of jet-black hair into a mirror and, whenever he came face to face with his reflection, staring gravely at himself, “Not a day over thirty. five,” he decided. “T am going up to Rome to-morrow.” Agatha Glover said, and he felt the pressure of her slender fingers on his shoulder. “T'll follow,” Bardet Folsom assured her. And this, no more, was exactly what they ‘ said. They were dedicated to the intricacies of the modern waltz. Agatha’s face was pressed against Bardet’s breast, she was as flexible within the circle of his arm, as one of those Etruscan gold snake bracelets that adorned the belles of yesterday. She smelled of wall-flower by Coty, and a faint sweetness as of mint rose from her crisped hair. Bardet thought of the Song of Songs, and of an army with banners, and of white jasmine. Witha curious sinking sensation of the heart, he caught himself wishing that Greta were there to watch out for him. No doubt of it, Agatha Glover was dangerous. She was not nineteen and _ sleepy-eyed and_ husky-voiced for nothing. And, everyone knew, Bardet Folsom had plenty of money, as well as the house left ; empty by Greta when she went to live with | e Rolf Travers in Ninth Street. E & Raising his left eyebrow, Bardet stared quizzically down his nose, and whispered: “Little Egyptian hell-cat! You dance divinely.” HEN he got back to New York in May, a year from the day he set sail, he was as dedicated to Agatha Glover as a first novel is dedicated to the author’s most influential friend. Agatha Glover was inscribed in a childish, upright scrawl, quite figuratively, of = course, upon Bardet’s considerable fortune. | Agatha in Egypt, beneath the low-swung stars, was one thing.:: Agatha in Rome, riding i to hounds across the Campagna, was another. 7 Agatha in Paris, her fuzzy aureole shingled §— and her slimness poured into frocks as w- compromising as the shifts of Josephine, was yet another. Agatha in New York, w Bardet trod unshifting social bed-rock, was disconcerting. She knew a great many people, none of whom Bardet Folsom had ever heard of. They were people who seemed to have everything, to have been everywhere, but upon whom there was no visible patina. They were shiny and bright and brand-new, as if they had been recently removed from layers of tissue-paper and set revolving. They entertained in hotels, traveled de lure, and were, none of them, even the mothers and fathers, a day over forty years old. S Bet Agatha Glover had done something quite extraordinary. She had made Bar- det Folsom believe that he need never be lonely again. To be with her was like follow- ing in the wake of a tornado. She nevet walked, but ran. Her mind was like a myriad- faceted diamond turning in the s bright colors and dazzles, but nowhere 3 shadow, a place of retreat. Her finget- were like enameled rose petals; her ears, she displayed them, as pinkly transparent # wax flowers. There was no flaw in her skin, 00 bump or angle or little, lovable ugliness of her body to point the beauty of the whole. Bard Folsom, escorting her, was a black and white background for the latest mode. And of all the variegated crowd of met who followed her, Bardet Folsom was most favored. She asked to see his hit and drifted from room to room, a lily in od fur, with a look of rapt acceptance that ed Bardet strangely. He suffered a sort chill at the thought of living up to / “dred Glover’s peculiar perfection for three hun and sixty-five days a year. And yet he was drifting that way. f : “What room is this?” asl ; (> ¢ geegany She paused before Greta’s door, her on the knob. ed the Before he could stop her, she had open door and had looked inside. “Oh,” she said. “This was Mrs. Folsom’s room,” Bardet explained. ‘ ? She drifted in, was reflected, incredibly tall and graceful, in the very mirrors * had, for — short a time, reflected ves small brownness, Greta’s cool reserve, o funny, unexpected smile. The room just as she had left it. And Bardet remet (Continued on page 120) j

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for FEBRUARY 1925 ‘00 cadowbrook artists search the world — on m a. a ai ie VS VN ow you may have them in the newest Meadowbrook modes and hues — those new fabrics of rarity and distinction our artists have brought from the South Seas, from quaint villages of China, Italy, Switzerland and France! Shantung Linen is one—a strange and exquisitely woven soft grass fibre. There are sheer Florentines and Venetians from Italy; | hand-patterned yarn and Visca models from Switzerland. - ; 2 : Designed in our California roof-garden studios, they all bear that Y unmistakable stamp of style that means Meapowsrook to the icin discerning. | SERS E Ask to see these Meadowbrooks—at those shops, always, where ———— you would naturally expect to find the best. Simon Minuinery Co. Meadowbrook Building, 989 Market Street San Francisco AL L ar = SALES OFFICE 15 Wen sch pamniy a City l { j Califor: nia ) SPORTS HATS meus Town and Country

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120 eR One-piece frock with the new circular flare, designed by Harper's Bazar for Pentkees Faille. Che Street “Dress Is At Its Best In PENIKEES FAILLE ASHION, usually so fickle, continues to favor ribbed silks for all manner of daytime dresses—and Penikees Faitxe for the particularly lovely ones. The town dress for Spring, be it strictly tailored, or not-so- strictly, finds this lustrous, soft-bodied fabric especially suitable —in any of the attractive shades in the Spring range of colors. You will find Penikees Fart.e and other ribbed silks from the house of Penikees at the silk counter of any good store— Bengaline, Poplin, Ottoman, Epingle. Also a host of ocher Penikees Silks, novelties and staples. Ask for Penikees Silks by name, as an assurance of quality and satisfaction. S92 - dc & 2) = SY 260 FourtH AvENUE CARL SCHOEN SILK CORPORATION New YorK 9 ¢ 6) _M HARPER'S BAZAR VERY OLD AMBER Mildred Cram’s Story (Continued from page 118) bered, too late, that he had placed the ambers on her dressing-table, as an offering, perhaps, to the memory of her. They lay, coiled, slumbering, upon a square of old brocade, among the enameled boxes and little bottles, empty now, that had contained the essences of her toilette. “Oh! Amber! How lovely!” Agatha Glover held the string between her long fingers. “Oh, Bardet! How Were they hers?” “No,” Bardet Folsom said, and then was simply exquisite! Iry. “Then, may I have them?” She bent her head, and the jewels lay upon her breast, rose and fell with her shallow breathing. “And earrings! Long ones! Oh, Bardet! How adorable of you! Aren’t they becoming? I'll wear them to-night.” Bardet Folsom had an inspiration. He reached out, like a drowning man, and grasped at a straw. “On one condition,” he said, smiling his best, quizzical smile and tilting an eyebrow at her. ‘“‘ That you dine with me at a shabby old place where I used to go very often. To- day is a sort of—a sort of an anniversary—" “Oh, Bardet, aren't you funny? You want a drink!” “In a coffee cup.” he said gravely “A pink drink an anniversary. Will you ‘0 “Of course,’” Agatha Glover said. And retained the ambers. She wore them that night. ON THE way to that restaurant beloved otf other days, Bardet Folsom was aware that beneath her cloak Agatha Glover wore amber brown draperies now masking, now revealing, the golden eyes of that superb ene. The earrings swung to her shoul- ers. “But damn it,” Bardet thought, “they’re not hers.” And he hoped against hope that Greta would remember—his birthday—and the little dinners in the faded room of the Salotto d’Oro, that Venetian restaurant in the Forties. His birthday, by George, again! Greta must be thirty-three. And this white, silent, child at his side, twenty! Old amber! Lovely, wistful, adorable years! And suddenly he hated and pitied the fact of youth. The Salotto d’Oro was unchanged. Three years had not brightened the vestibule, where, beneath dusky silk flags, Vittorio Emmanuele bristled benignly at his exiled subjects. The faded stair-carpet was the same. The distant, subdued, yet ardent chatter of Itali- ano at table was identical with memory. And a large, gray cat with eyes like aqua- marine disks, vibrated at Bardet’s ankles with a vociferous humming of welcome. Unchanged the odor of minestrone, chicken, spaghetti, Chianti and toasted bread. The same waiter took Bardet Folsom’s coat and hat, his muffler, and gave in exchange a greasy ticket marked 35. Agatha Glover stared at Bardet with eyes outraged by such stupid ugliness. ‘‘Why this? Even for an anniversary?” ““Even tor ambers?”’ She quivered. ‘‘Don’t be insulting ” “This way, please ” The greasy waiter, flicking a napkin, led them upstairs, and, miraculously, into the room dedicated to Bardet Folsom’s birth- days, a faded, charming, old-world room re- moved from the chatter in the restaurant below, where a dozen tables were reserved for ‘‘gentlemen with ladies.” Bardet Folsom saw at once that Greta was there. And he saw, in one furiously acquisi- tive glance, that she had not cut her hair, that she was still slender, and that her nose tilted at the angle he had been at an agony to remember Then he became unconscious. GATHA GLOVER swayed the length ol the room. Her incredibly smooth little head, black, neat, shiny as a crow’s wing, rose from the fur collar of her wrap with an inso- lence superior to the shabby room and the greasy waiter. She stood a moment, poised. by ‘the chair drawn out for her, looked from table to table, then swiftly let the wrap tall, as petals curl away from a stamen. And Greta saw the ambers. Greta was dining with her young man. For the occasion, perhaps in memory of an anniversary, she wore black. And now her eyes were deep and furious. She smiled at Bardet Folsom, whispered to Rolf Travers, and, in a moment, Bardet’s hand was seized, and he found himself face to face with the horn-rimmed glitter of Rolf Travers’ eyes, and heard that: ““Greta wants to speak to you. It’s been ages! Did you know? I’m to do a place at Palm Beach for Reggie Michaelson = “Miss Glover . . . Mr. Travers.” And there they all were! “Greta! Miss Glover . . . Mrs. Travers.” “Isn’t this a funny place?” “Funny? Do you think so? We're very fond of it.” a “Well, not very—smart.” “No, not very. But one doesn’t expect one’s soup to be smart.” And then Greta saw the ambers. ‘Good heavens,” she said, “they're mine!” “ Vours?”’ ‘ As everyone else at all the other tables was staring, so Bardet Folsom and Rolf Travers stared at Agatha Glover. ““You mean these? The ambers?” “Exactly,” Greta said. A spark of ma- licious pleasure kindled in her eyes, She shrugged her shoulders. “I can’t imagine where you got them.” “Why, Bardet gave them to me.” ‘‘Bardet?”’ Greta turned to Bardet Folsom with one of her most dangerous smiles “Bardy! Bardy! But you gave them to me!” “My dear, you refused them.’ “Did I? I'd forgotten.” She crinkled her brown eyes at Agatha Glover. “I don’t think he’s telling the truth, But—to the victor the spoils!” She tossed over her shoulder to Bardet Folsom: ‘“‘Come and see us, Bardy. Soon,” “Yes, do,’ Rolf Travers insisted, “{ want particularly to talk to you about a new scheme of mine—” Back at their table, Agatha Glover's anger broke through the surface ice. She was furious in a way peculiar to spoiled children, Pomer- anians, and aborigines. With the pointed toe of her slipper she kicked Bardet Folsom beneath the table. ‘‘You beast! I want to go home! If you don’t take me away at once, I'll scratch you.” In the car again, she broke the ambers and threw them at him. And then, repentant, cried on his shoulder. But Bardet Folsom’s expression of amuse- ment deepened once more into an ironic de- tachment. He set her gently aside and told her to behave herself. HEN he took the ambers to Greta the next day they had been repaired by Zoorian, who considered the occasion in the light of a romantic interlude. Bardet Folsom put them in Greta’s lap. “I despoiled the infant,” he said, gravely, “for your sake.”’ “Old amber,” she said, with a quiver of her lips. ‘“‘Very old amber.” “Greta, are you happy?” Bardet asked suddenly, knowing quite well that there is no surer invitation to disaster than to aska married woman whether she is happy—or not. Greta’s brown eyes met his frankly. “We are said to be the happiest couple in New York,”’ she declared. From that moment, Bardet Folsom de voted himself to making the domestic ex- periment of the Travers a glittering success. It happened that while he was enjoying 4 cup of tea and a smoke with Greta, Rolf Travers blew in, all fresh and red-cheeked from the buffets of success. ‘Hallo! Here you are! And who was the lovely creature Greta rescued you from? Very neat, that! Very neat. Any tea, Greta? Make it strong, with plenty of cream and three lumps sugar.” “I know,” Greta murmured. Rolf Travers was just running down to Long Island to have a look at his orangene which was being decorated, oddly enough, by Strethlow and Giddings’ pet decorator. When he had swallowed his tea, he rushed off, and Bardet and Greta heard his tat galloping toward the Avenue. Greta looked at Bardet. ‘Isn't he wonderful?” “Very. Is he always busy?” “Always His life is never reduced to the sort of pale glimmer usual to people like us Bardy. Rolf is like a search-light, a bonfire, an explosion. He gets up at six-thirty, and is sound asleep, like a baby, at ten o'clock. Nothing ever worries him. He is never late for an engagement. And, do you know, | think he is the most faithful man alivé He doesn’t give a snap of his finger for women” Greta curled up in_her 5 closed o- on. 8 ee “And now, Bardy, who was the girl?” P FS Bardet explained: ‘‘I kissed her in Egypt “And compromised yourself? Ob, Bardy, how could you?” Greta opened her ey again. “Is she so fascinating?” he Bardet Folsom said nothing, but managed to look as if he knew all there # to be known about the exclusive art of sedue tion. >” “Are you going to marry her, Bardy’ “Well, you married, didn’t you? ‘h “But it wasn’t at all the same! Why Bardy, you’re old enough to be her father.” “That depends. marry at eight. Or is dee bh “If you’re going to be rough— Suddenly Greta jumped up and tossed bet cigaret into the grate. (Concluded on page 122) In certain countries, they ” ” a

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for FEBRUARY 19

Se eae ae Tee

MOG

esterday-Commenpl ave “Joday-- a ‘Beauty! \ Only a difference of pores—enlarged or mvisible. Think of this new “freezy” cream that does what ice does in contract: ing the pores, but so much more gently, swiftly and daintily Those of us who really want beautiful skins, have them. It is simply a matter of caring enough and of helping instead of fighting nature. Nature gave every one of us a soft, clear, lovely skin with pores so fine as to be almost invisible — and meant us to keep it. And then the raw wind blew, and the dust swirled —and one night as we looked in the mirror, we found not the satin- like complexion of yesterday, but the first unmistakable signs of waning beauty. With cleansing and softening creams we labored arduously at restoration. And we enjoyed the benefits of good creams in helping to cleanse and replenish. the oil cells of the skin. But the task is not finished—the pores have not usually been closed. And if we go forth with relaxed pores we simply invite the dust and germs to work new damage to our complexions. Then we wonder why we have large pores. But some of us who really want beautiful skins and have them, have taken care to close the pores to their natural fineness before going out into the air and before powdering.

PRINCESS PAT, Ltd., Chicago, U.S.A. Many of us use ice every morning to con- tract the pores—others usecold water. Both are effective to a certain degree, but such treatment is troublesome, inconvenient and harsh to tender skins. Now a new and better way — Princess Pat Ice Astringent Instead of ice, fastidious women are now using a smooth, snowy cream which gently chills the distended pores back to their normal fineness, stimulating the tiny capil- laries to renewed action and reviving the natural glowing color. Thesensation is one of pure delight—a cool, refreshing thrill. And the effect on your skin is instant—the firm, youthful, velvety texture that nature meant you to have. Different from all other face creams, Princess Pat Ice Astringent does not take their place —it supplements them. It completes the task which the nourishing cream has left unfinished —contracts the open pores. It is applied while your accustomed cream still remains on your skin. Then both are gently wiped off together. And howwonderfully your powder adheres! Too, you may powder without the slightest fear ot its entering the pores.

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Beauty Hints by ‘The Princess’? My night treatment Cleanse the skin thoroughly with a soft, solvent cleansing cream. Re- move with soft cloth. Feed the pores generously with nourishing cream, gently manipulating with finger tips. Let sleep do the rest. I suggest Princess Pat Cleanser and Princess Pat Cream for this night treatment. My morning treatment Awaken the skin with cool, not cold, water. Dry the face. Now just a light coat of nourishing cream, again gently manipulating always with upward and outwar strokes. Now your ice astringent right on top of the nourishing cream. Then wipe off both together. 4 4 mages > ai Rs My final touch I find dry tint most natural—Prin- cess Pat English Tint. Apply in the shape of a V, the point toward the nose, leaving aclear space in front of the ear. For waterproof effect, apply before powdering. I use an almond base gee soothing and beautifying. C free This free demonstration package, containing a liberal sample of both Princess Pat Ice Astringent and Princess Pat Cream. After several days’ trial on your own complex- ion, entirely without cost, let your mirror be your guide. Princess Pat, Ltd., Dept. 222 2701-9 S. Wells St., Chicago Please send free Demonstration Pack- age of Princess Pat Ice Astringent and Princess Pat Cream, to

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Guaranteed not to grow hair, particularly light in weight and yet unusually adherent. creation superb in five shades: white, flesh, blush, ocre, ae $1.00 Jordeau Massage & Cleansing Cream and Tissue Builder A change from those creams which Contains no ingredient which can in any way promote woman’s greatest bane—superfluous Cooling, refreshing. Cleanses and enlivens tis- promote hair growths. hair. a crerny| = fe colors), it remedies exces- sive perspiration and de- stroys odors harmlessly..50c sue. 60c (2 0z) and $2.00 (1% lb) Don’t delay. If you have never used ZIP, you will marvel at its magic. Fragrant, painless, harmless and easy to use at home, it destroys the growth by gently lifting out the roots and is pronounced by experts as the ideal method. ZIP is for sale everywhere and guaranteed on a money back basis. Treatments or a FREE DEMON- STRATION can be had at my Salon. COLORLESS é ( LIQUID DEODORANT The ideal liquid colorless deodorant. Formulated by a physician and guaran- teed absolutely harmless. Odorless and colorless (con- taining no staining artificial Jordeau Talc For so great a variety of uses. Delicately fragrant. An excellent ab- sorbent of excessive skin moisture. .25c ZIP for Sale Everywhere—Other JORDEAU Preparations at the following or by mail: Adam, Meldrum & Anderson Co. Bu N. Y¥. alo, N. Y. L. S. Ayres & Co...... Indianapolis, Ind. L. S. Donaldson Co..Minneapolis, Minn. The Fair Store Co.....Cincinnati, Ohio Gimbel Bros .... ° Yor Gimbel Bros..... -Philadelphia, Pa Hahne & aside ae, aaa’ ewark, N. J. Ruby Call Hartt... Springfield, Mass. . L. Hudson Co..........Detroit, Mich, Jordan Marsh Co......... Boston, Mass. Mertin Beauty Salon... ..Boston, Mass. Kaufmann's—The Big Store R. Macy & Co....... ew k, ; | 2 Serer leveland, Ohio Meier & Frank.......... Portland, Ore. - 1. Namm & Son...... Brooklyn, N. Y. Newcomb-Endicott Co....Detroit, Mich. Saks & Co..............New York, N. Y. Schuster’s Three Stores Milwaukee, Wisc. pe rT ee Dayton, O. so FORDERY me Dept. 420 562 Fifth Ave., New York (Entrance on 46th Street) CREATIONS JORDERD HARPER’S BAZAR A WORTHY QUITTANCE E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Concluded from page 112) “He sha’n’t.” the man cried furiously. “Madame, intercede for me. It’s all over now.” “Try and forget yourself for a moment,” she enjoined. “Reflect. Think of others for once in your life. In four minutes Andrew will come in and will certainly exercise his right to kill you. If he does that, he will either have to kill himself, too, or give him- self up to the law. Two lives will be wasted instead of one—not to speak of Pauline, who surely has suffered enough and who might yet have a few more years of happiness. Can’t you see your duty?” “No,” he answered sullenly. Madame rose to her feet. “‘T shall leave you to consider the matter,” she said. “Here is your revolver.” She pushed it toward him. ‘And here,” she added, taking a little gold box from her purse, and carefully selecting a white tabloid, “is something which you may prefer. In the old days when we skirted the thin edge of safety, I was never without one of these. There is no pain, they leave no pos- sible trace behind, and they are speedy. Between the two try and find your courage. Ne one can alter what is past. No one can give you a certificate of good living. You can at least die like a man.” ; “Die!” he muttered. “Why should I die?” Madame glanced at the clock. ** Andrew Sarle is a man of his word,” she warned him. “If you cannot find your courage in two minutes you will die at his hand. If you have a spark of manhood left in you, you will die by your own. I am taking Andrew his revolver.” She moved quietly toward the door, pausing on the way to set straight a vase of flowers. She passed out without a backward glance. Tringe was left alone. Outside, the deep midday stillness was broken only by the droning of the bees, the twittering of birds. Opposite to him was a tall clock ticking steadily. He sat with his eyes fixed upon the minute hand. . . . In the rose-screened corner of the balcony, the woman pleaded and Andrew listened. “Tt is not for his life, I beg,” she declared. “Tt is that you may keep your own for me. You cannot kill him and escape, and it isn’t worth it. Look what he has become.” “There is a code which you do not under- (The ninth story in this series stand,” he replied, kindly enough but still w; that air of aloofness as though he belemeanal some other world. ‘‘We cannot both live.” “But does he live?” she persisted. “Re. member, Andrew, it is seven years since ] left him and even then he was seldom sober Look at him now. He’s on the threshold of the grave. He is dead morally; he js dead spiritually, Why should you risk your life or your liberty for an idea? I have been lonely for so long, and there is Pauline, She is quivering with joy at the thought that she may see her father again.” . . , Madame came through .the window and approached them. She handed Andrew his revolver. The clock was striking, “The matter is one for your own wi Andrew,” she conceded. “Personally | think that you are wrong to waste a single further thought upon such a creature Still the clock strikes. The hour is yours,” He took the revolver into his hand. Through many a night and many a day he had wasted hours dreaming of this moment. “T shall go in to him,” he announced. “] shall shoot or leave him to the dregs of life according to what I see in his face when he looks up.” “Tt is reasonable,” Madame declared. He walked across the salon and threw open the door of the inner room. The women followed him at a little distance; Pauline trembling and pale with fear, Madame, un. moved. Tringe was seated in his old place, his arms stretched out upon the table, his head bent forward. Sarle walked to within a few paces of him and stopped. “Maurice Tringe!” he called out. There was no answer. He waited for a moment ‘Maurice Tringe!” he repeated. Still no movement. The man who had come to slay leaned over the crouching figure. A single glance was sufficient. He turned round and held out his hand to the women, “Go back,” he begged “Ts he dead?” Pauline called out. “He is dead,” was the solemn reply. Madame crossed the room and stood by his side. The tabloid lay there untouched. She looked at the pistol. All six chambers were still loaded. She thrust the tabloid back into her case and sighed. “A worthy quittance!” she murmured contemptuously. ‘He died of fear!” will appear in the March issue) VERY OLD AMBER Mildred C ram’s Story (Concluded from page 120) “IT won’t let you! That frozen pudding going to live in my house, use my things! Never! Never! I'll do anything. Cut my hair. Divorce Rolf. Marry you... .” She paused, gasping, and they stared at each other. Without warning, Bardet Folsom held out his arms. But, wide-eyed, Greta shook her head and slowly backed away, step by step, until the tea table was again between them. “No. No. I didn’t mean a word I said Please, don’t, Bardy. Don’t look at me that way. Go away. At once. Oh, please, go away.” Bardet went, unsteadily, with a brand new pulse pounding in his temples. “Aha!” he said once, aloud, and swung at a sparrow with his cane. “Tt is up to me,” he reflected, “to hang around.” And he had a mental picture of himself, in the guise ot a sleek, black cat, very thin, crouched before a mouse-hole, waiting. The next few months were the most exciting in a life that had not been uneventful. Upon the one hand, there was Agatha Glover, still bemused by the vision of herself in Bardet Folsom’s perfect house, which was on the right street in the right part of town in the sacred pasturage of the gilded calves. Agatha was too intelligent not to know that she was swinging close to the edge of failure. She became devastatingly sweet, and played her audacities on muted strings, pianissimo. It would be madness, her mother warned her, to risk losing Bardet Folsom for the sake of a few thrills. Bardet Folsom, in the meantime, wondered by what curious twist of fate he had ever been Jed to kiss her, in Egypt or anywhere else. He watched, without seeming to, the un- folding of Greta’s dream of youth and happi- ness. Very much, in his heart, he wanted her to grasp at least the, fluttering garments of the goddess as she passed. But what he saw he pretended not to see, and so Greta let him in, to dine with her, to share the fireside of an evening, to smoke and talk until the embers cooled. Rolf Travers was never there. Success was this young man’s mistress, money the jade his eye was upon, blue-prints his passion, the jargon of his trade the music. he craved. Greta had been the hand up he needed. Greta’s name had hoisted him over the first hurdle. Faithful? Of course! Because he hadn’t a spark of human love in his breast. Greta was, had been, no more than the glitter of another decoration. He wore her as some men weat medals. And, being young, he failed to see what Bardet Folsom saw, the little droop of weariness at the corners of her mouth, pucker of questioning between her eyes, the held breath of her, the dangerous, smoldering control, the forced smile, the boastful lift of the head with which she met the dubious world and the world’s wife. GAIN, one night in spring— ; Again, her drawing-room, And Greta is thirty-six, and Bardet Folsom has topped fifty. j He leaves his hat with her servant in the hall, finds her, again, alone. ‘“Rolf’s gone to Lenox. Come in, Bardy.” And her fingers, cool, curling around his. “What a deat you’ve been. All these years! And that lily of yours has gone and married some one else who will probably kiss her in Egypt. So th world whirls, Bardy, like a darned old Ferns wheel.” The room is pleasantly dark, and there are jonquils in a bowl on the piano. And, all at once, Bardet Folsom sees that Greta is wear ing the ambers. He leans forward and lets them slip through his fingers, holding his breath. “T was wrong, Bardy.” “Wrong?” ; I “Beginning all over again wasnt wats needed. I’m going to leave Rolf, because never needed me. And you did.” | Bardet Folsom is still holding his breath. The ambers are alive. ; ‘ “I want to do al) the foolish, wonderful things we used to do together—® grow old. Oh, Bardy, I’m so tired of young!” : She looks at him through a mist of lovely tears. inl “Bardy, before we hunt up French eerrp “* may I sit on your knee, the way ‘fe and kiss you just over the ear, where you™ growing gray?” ; br vel th ant ant or

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LTT a A Piven the palest sky blue and rose | | tor FEBRUARY 1925 pink Biltmore Handwoven Woolen Suitings are guaranteed to be abso- lutely fast and may be washed with soap and water. Shelbyville, Ky. Thank you for sending the material so promptly. There is no material that compares with your homespun in coloring and wear. Yours tru-y, Mrs. E. B. B. Cleveland, Ohio. Kindly furnish a few samples of dark browns and grays in regu- far weight, also light weight, for gentlemen's suits. Mrs. Marshall | fas a suit of your cloth since 1921, and still in fine shape. G. D. M. Midland, La. The material 1 bought from you last “fall has worn wonderfully well, It has even been washed and still looks perfectly new. And best of all, here where it is almost impossible to keep one’s clothes looking well pressed because of the dampness, it retains the crease for a long time. Mrs. A. J. M. Kindly send me samples of Biltmore Homespuns, particularly in browns and blues. I have worn for five years a blue grey which was very satisfactory. I desire the weight for a ladies’ suit. Miss E. B., Washington, D. C. The tailor is not very well pleased. He says if I get a suit of this Biltmore Homspun I shall not order anothes for several years, ind it is bad for his business. Miss J. S. Florida in winter. Ontario, Canada, in summer. Needless to say the goods are as usual up to their high standard, ind I do not consider that my wardrobe is complete without a suit ot two of Biltmore Homespun. v. A. Connersville, Ind. Your progressive business methods and honest unusual qualities are a rare combination on which 1 compliment you. I hope others will follow your good example. W. E. W. Biltmore Homespuns are not rough and The cloth is woven entirely by hand. We shaggy—they are rugged and strong, but have been doing it the same way for are as beautiful and refined as only hand twenty years and have never woven a yard work can make them. They are made in of cloth except on looms we have built by every color and shade—every color is abso- hand in our own wood —e- lutely guaranteed and any piece of Bilt- The weaving is all done by native men. more Homespun is returnable if not dam- We weave three weights: aged or cut. There are light weaves for | **Regular,’’ which is a very substantial summer, ‘‘Regular’’ weaves for fall and closely woven cloth, a hard twist, and winter, and overcoat weaves. weighs about 7}¢ to 8 ounces to the yard, ide. “Light Weight’"’ is made of precisely the same yarn, but has 300 less threads to the same width and weighs about 6 ounces to the yard. It simply is woven more loosely and is an ideal weight for ladies’ suits. “*Overcoat’’ is made by drawing three threads together and making practically a triple thread. The overcoat cloth is of a wonderful texture and weighs about 14 ounces to the yard. All Biltmore Homespuns are precisely the same on either side. We have seen men’s suits that had been worn two and three years, then turned inside out and made over. Regular weights 3.50 per yard Light weights $3.25 per yard Overcoat weights $4.50 per yard Seven to eight yards are required for a lady's suit. amples costing us 10c each wili be sent on re- quest. Please do not put us to this expense unless —™TT you are seriously consid- \/ ering our homespun. Biltmore Industries Grove Park Inn Asheville, N.C = ~ — REG. U. S. PAT. OFF. Hand Loom. Built of White Oak by hand in our own shop DEL MONTE-HICKEY | SPORTWEAR | The SPIRIT OF YOUTH always reflected in Simplicity, is emphasized in this charming Frock and Coat of Kashmir Twill. Each individually Smart. Atyatoaiee CLS 5D Det Monte-Hicxey New Yor« 246 West 38TH STREET SS eee

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i new Ensemble Suit for spring illustrates that simple elegance and dominating beauty in- variably associated with all models by MANGONE! Models by Mangone may be identified by this label sewn in every garment + New Yorn More than 200 selected stores in leading cities of the United States, offer the well dressed woman the opportunity to procure Models by Mangone. For further information address Mangone, New York HARPER’S BAZAR THE GREAT PANDOLFO William J. Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 67) And she drank herself in and stopped her s Yes, to death on créme de menthe or ether. I know all about her. Far better dead.” These parenthetic and possibly apocry- phal details formed no part of the young man’s story. He merely stated the fact of the lady’s demise and the testamentary disposition of her fortune. Paula wrinkled a puzzled brow. “Tt’s rather hard to follow. So many people seem to be dead. But if your uncle Sir Ponsonby died without a son to inherit, then of course you—” e He interrupted quickly. “My father had the title for 2 month and my poor brother for a week.” “How is that? You called him your younger brother—” He explained, in his gentle manner. The Imp of Mischance had attended him since birth, until Sir Victor had come along with his potent exorcism. Only after he was born did his father marry his mother. It had been a wild and romantic affair. She had been a McCairn of Cairness, and dwelt in an ances- tral stronghold somewhere in the region of Eddrachillis Bay in Sutherlandshire. The family could trace a descent, marred by grievous misalliances on its own part, to Malcolm the Second, and therefore, when Simon Uglow, on a Highland walking tour, and bearer of brave letters of introduction, visited them, they received the guest at first with splendid Highland hospitality, but, after a while, regarded with indignant anger the embryo practitioner of physic, son of an upstart baronet of James the First’s creation—James the First—a mushroom— who had the audacity to demand the daugh- ter’s hand in marriage. In lofty irony they questioned him as to marriage settlements. When they found that he could only settle on the lady his name and his youth and the golden prospects of his medical genius, they threw him out of the house with all the ob- servances of high-bred courtesy. Now the lady, not being descended from Pictish kings for nothing, took matters into her own hands. Before young Uglow had time to realize the ignominy of his expulsion, he found himself in a sailing boat, with Elinor McCairn at the tiller, half-way across the North Inch. Thus, the wind prospering, they reached the Butt of Lewis, perhaps one of the spots on the earth the least subjected to the vigilance of Divine Providence. For a couple of months they lived idyllically, although of necessity frugally, in the sum- mer weather of a peculiarly glorious sum- mer. They dwelt in a fisherman’s hut and lived on oatmeal, mackerel, and illicit whisky. HEN, one fine day, a clumsy old paddle-. wheeled steamer hover around the point. A boat put off, and landed a deter- mined party of angry gentlemen, who beat Simon Uglow and threw him into the sea and by main force carried off the erring Elinor to the steamer. In some such form did Paula reconstruct the romantic tale from Gregory Uglow’s shy and sensitive confidences. He had heard the main grim facts from his father. Now and again his mother, when he was a little boy, had stirred his imagination with picturesque details of their castaway life. Paula gathered that they stuck away a dumb and unconfessing Elinor in a turret chamber of Cairn Castle, until, to the con- sternation of the family, the wretched Gregory squeaked his first distaste of a cold world. Then they had to send in a hurry for Simon, who, poor though reprehensible lad, had no idea of what had been happening. They were married outright and sent south with the family malison. According to Scottish law the child was legitimatized and could inherit Scottish estates. But English law wagged its ponderous head. So did Sir Ponsonby Uglow, his brother’s senior by many years, wag his, in reprobation. So did his German wife who hated the proud Scottish lady at first sight. Wherefore it came event- ually to pass that Dr. Simon’s younger son, heir, after him, presumptive to the baronetcy, found favor in Sir Ponsonby’s eyes, while Gregory of the bend sinister had to fend for himself. Discharged from hospital and demobilized, he faced a world not clamoring for crippled young gentlemen with a smattering of science. The labor market resented the survivors of the war. The Trades Unions would not have them. The former were the pitiless “Haves”; the latter the contemptible “Have Nots.” On all sides they felt upon them cold eyes wondering why they weren’t decently dead. Thus was Gregory Uglow brought to regard himself as an intruder in the land of living folk; the land which its rulers were trying to make fit for heroes who had stayed at home to live in. Gregory might have been unreason- able in his rebellion against existing things; but he was also hungry and hopeless. Es- pecially one night when he sat on a bench on the Thames Embankment somewhere in the neighborhood of Cheyne Walk. It was then that the miracle happened. Ip the moonlight before him passed a burly yet jaunty figure carrying a paper parcel under his arm. Hardly had the man pro- ceeded a couple of yards when, from some break in the parcel, an object dropped to the ground. Gregory picked it up, regarded it for some seconds first in surprise, then with interest. He followed and hailed the passerby “Your pardon, sir—but you’ve dropped something.” Pandolfo turned and thanked him and said whimsically: “Why should you worry to restore me this bit of stone?” “Because,” said Gregory, “as far as I can judge in the moonlight, it’s a mineralogical specimen and may be valuable.” “What the devil do you know about mineralogical specimens?” cried Pandolfo, looking the shabby young man up and down, “Here. Tell me what you think it is.” He drew a small electric torch from his pocket and flashed it on the lump in his left palm. Gregory, amused by the encounter, examined it. A memory of old laboratory days fixed upon such another lump, the second to the right on a third shelf. He laughed in spite of his conviction that the world wished him dead and out of the way. “At a venture, I should say it was mispikel.” Pandolfo deliberately flashed the torch in his face. “Young man,” said he, “let us sit down and have a talk. One doesn’t pick up an expert mineralogist on a Thames Embank- ment bench every night in the week. It’s not mispike!, though the greatest authority in London, only a quarter of an hour ago, said it was. So you err in the best of company.” “What is it then?” Gregory asked. “Ah! That’s what the Professor would give anything to know. I believe he cut a hole in this brown paper parcel, so that a specimen should fall out which he’d be able to pick up later between his house and mine” Whereupon he sat down with a courteous wave of the hand to the place beside him and deliberately retied his parcel. His glance fell upon an ugly split in a shoe. “Tf you will forgive the indelicacy of my question,” said he, ‘‘may I ask whether you find the pursuit of mineralogy lucrative?” Gregory rose—or the spirit of his Scottish mother within him— “That’s a question I’m afraid I can't answer. I wish you good evening.” Pandolfo leaped up and lifted restraining hands. “Young man, to take offense is often to lose opportunity. I know all about you. You're a gentleman. You're a man scientific attainment and you’re down and out. And I’m damned if you’re not hungry.” As though conjured up by Pandolfo’s magic, an empty taxicab purred gently by. Pandolfo hailed it. “Get in. You're coming with me. You'll find me as proud as you are and twice as hungry. I’ve no use for people who don't do what I tell them.” Practically to avoid physical encounter, in which he would be worsted, and yielding to the stranger’s cheery and _ full-blooded mastery, Gregory suffered himself to be pitched into the taxicab. “Tt’s more or less only round the cornet; but I see that you’ve walked enough.” GREGORY had a confused vision of & great house, and soft carpets and pictures and bits of statuary gleaming in the d light; of a long passage; of a vast shaped room, a medley of everything from comfortable leather chairs and luxurious writing-desk to deal trestle tables strewn with weird objects and appliances and blue prints; of walls hung with a jumble of rare engravings and photographs of machinery. He noticed a cage of love-birds at the far end. A man-servant had preceded them, switching “Supper h chicken, beef, tongue, cold pie, everything you can lay your hands upon. And a bottle of champagne.” He thrust the young maf into a chair. “My name’s Victor Pan I’ve invented everything from a dry a woman’s hair to an instrument fot telling all about a submarine ten knots away.” : Gregory had vaguely heard of him. Also he remembered having seen name—® striking one—in a list of honors.” “Sir Victor—I think,” said he. “Why think when you know?. Thou is a force that should be econo’ . laughed. “Well that’s all about me. What about yourself?” It was only later when fortified by good fof and wine and the obvious gladness of he host at seeing him eat and drink, agg plucked up courage to tell his story. 3° confessed to previous hunger and_ weariness) to the open air bed that awaited him on (Continued on page 126)

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Tea-time at the Café de Paris MonrTeE-CaRLo. DRESSES FOR THE TRA-SOUAR FOR ALL OCCASIONS SUPER-STYLED CREATIONS FEATURED IN BEST STORES SOLD BY NAME NOT BY LABEL 550 Seventh Ave., New York Wholesale Only The Café de Paris MontTE-CaRLo. > we HARPER’S BAZAR THE GREAT PANDOLFO William J. Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 124) Thames Embankment. After the manner of a proud, shy man, he told his story back- wards, under the vivid questionings of Pan- dolfo. who never rested until he had traced him beyond his birth. Smatterings of knowl- edge, he declared, were of no use to him; he must know things from root to branch. Eventually he rang a bell violently. The man-servant appeared. Pandolfo flung up a hand. “Prepare a bedroom at once for Mr. Uglow. Mr. Uglow is my new private secretary. He arrived late and lost his luggage, so fit him out with what is necessary. Come back and report when all is ready.” The servant gone, he turned and beamed on the bewildered young man who stammered out: “You're very kind—but I don’t under- stand, Is it a jest on your part?” “T have a vast sense of humor,” replied Pandolfo, magnificently. “But I would pray you believe I don’t condescend to the type of pleasantry that was practised on one Christopher Sly—if that’s what you're think- ing of. If I say you're my private secretary. you are my private secretary ”’ The young man objected blankly. He knew not shorthand, nor had he ever fingered the keys of a typewriter Pandolfo grew impatient. He had a score of shorthand- typists in his employ. Said Gregory: “Then what could I do?” “Everything I tell you. Train yourself to be Elisha to my Elijah. You'll do it. I’ve never made a mistake in my life. I know when men are lying and when they’re telling the truth. You're enough of a man of the world to recognize that most people would attribute my action in taking a tramp off a bench on the Thames Embankment and starting him with a commencing salary of four hundred pounds a year, and all found, as my confidential secretary and assistant, to softening of the brain. But my brain’s extravagantly hard and alert. Yet, my young friend, a warning once and for all. Should you prove me wrong—should you let me down—” his eyes suddenly glittered like the points of the daggers of some reprehensible Neapolitan ancestor, “it were better for you not to have been born.” “Perhaps,” said Gregory rising, “I had better go back to the Embankment.” Said Pandolfo: “I owe my success in life to a lack of the gambling imstinct. The de- graded word sportsmanship—except in its sense of giving everybody a fair deal—which is mere common honesty—has always appealed to me as the shibboleth of the unintelligent man trying to justify himself.” In his quick way he threw open the doors of the octagonal room and flung out indicating hands. ‘“‘The Embankment, and God knows what. Bed, ease, possible fortune, but in the meantime a hell of a life.’ All the pride in the young man—again the Highland mother whose high-born kinsmen (as in the classical case of Annabel Lee) took her far away from the Butt of Lewis— once more revolted. HE situation was not the normal and modern to which his mind was attuned. It contained something of the exotic, Arabian Nightesque. A vague flavor of Stevenson’s story of ‘The Young Man With the Cream Tarts” mounted to his brain. He had stepped from the commonplace across the threshold of the unreal. Here, in ordinary dinner-suit, as courteous a host as one could wish to meet, stood a gentleman who, to his disordered fancy—remember the transition from starvation to surfeit and great indul- gence to some derangement of faculties— seemed a sort of djinn, mocking behind his kindness, threatening behind his mansuetude. Idiotically he conjectured a battle between the Devil and his immortal soul. He with- stood the shock of a dynamic moment. Then, stalwart though unnerved, he reached out a thin hand: “T can’t thank you enough for your extraor- dinary kindness, Sir Victor—but—” A tornado of a Pandolfo slammed the open main door and, turning swift, took the young man’s lean shoulders in his nervous grasp, and threw back his head and laughed out loud. “You damned young fool. Didn’t I say I never bet except on a certainty? Go to bed right away. Clear out. You're here in this room to-morrow at nine o'clock.” He pressed an electric bell and hung on to it far beyond the time of an ordinary master’s summons. He seemed to stand there, slightly bent, triumphantly bantering, for five minutes. Then: : ¥ “Another drink? A_ nightcap? No? Well—good night. You'll find an agitated Jenks or Binks or whatever he calls himself awaiting you. If you haven’t all you can possibly want, I’ll electrocute him to-morrow. Give him your orders for bath and breakfast. And”—he pointed a finger—‘‘nine o’clock here to-morrow.” That, according to Paula’s coordination. of many talks with him—some casual others of more deliberate confidence, was the history of the first relations between Gregory Uglow and Pandolfo. “I was as powerless as a sailing ship before a typhoon,” laughed Gregory. “That’s all very well for metaphor,” said Paula. “But, coming to bed-rock, suppose you hadn’t made good?” His mild eyes lit up. “Who could help making good under Sir Victor’s inspiration? Even a worm wouldn’t try to turn. At first I thought myself the greatest fraud under heaven; for practically, I had forgotten all I had ever learned about mineralogy. I owed every- thing to a lucky hit, the trick of memory that recalled the specimen on the laboratory shelf. But that gripped his imagination, ] must be a_ wonderful fellow. . I’ve worked night and day for years in order to live up to the reputation.” ‘Has he ever told you his history?” Paula asked. “No. Has he told you?” “Only a very little. I should gather it was as romantic as yours.” EANWHILE Pandolfo fretted, not over his broken ribs, but over the inaction which they necessitated. He had arrived with the intention of whirling Paula all cver the length and breadth and height of Savoy. He had dreamed of picnics by waterfalls and won- drous lunches at world-famed restaurants, of moonlight walks, and irruptions into the pearl and diamond shops of Aix-les-Bains. And there he was, laid flat on his back for heaven knew how long with nothing to give her but a grate- ful smile when she looked in once a day to see how he was faring. Of course, he sent his man, his chauffeur, Gregory, and sometimes his nurse to buy up the flower and fruit and chocolate supply of Renes-les-Eaux. Both Paula and Lady Demeter had to stack their overflow along the corridor. But he chafed at such limited powers. He caused Gregory to deplete the little bookshop of its stock of detective fiction, which he read voraciously, The nurse pleased him. She was small, trim, middle-class, efficient. He absorbed her into his entourage. He vaunted her asthe most perfect nurse in the universe, just as though he had manufactured her himself, Slyly he obtained from an unsuspecting Clara the names and addresses of a fashionable dressmaker and a milliner in Aix. He sent his car to Aix to fetch them. They were shown into a room occupied by a sick gentle man and a demure nurse. “T want you to make this lady,” said he. “the most beautiful dress you can and a hat to match. Will you kindly take her measure ments?” Of the three dumbfounded females, the milliner first recovered her nerve. “But, Monsieur,” said she, “one does not measure ladies for hats.” “But, Sir Victor,” said the nurse, “I dont want the things.” ‘You're going to have them,” said he. _ The nurse gave way, torn between mint and disconcertment, and fled for succor to the only strong woman she knew of in her ii mediate vicinity. “Mrs. Field, please tell me. What can I 59 Paula took the girl by her arm and sailed into Pandolfo’s room, where she found t¥® bemused slaves, sincerely convinced Monsieur’s simple request was t reasonable and commonplace action perfectly reasonable and commonp! They would send over on the morrow @ their models and all their hats. Madame (the nurse) had only to choose. For thee as far as the dress was concerned, could be arranged either there or at 4@ according to Madame’s convenience. “And, my dear Mrs. Field,” said he, “ity will be so gracious as to give Nurse Willial the benefit of your experience, I shall be matt than ever your devoted servant.” Pe “But, Sir Victor,” cried the nurse, don’t understand. I don’t want Paris j and hats. When > you think I'd have @ chance of wearing them?” “i “Precisely,” said Paula coldly, “when? E PUFFED and waved a cigaret “Biarritz, when she has done with She needs a month's holiday. I'll see I have a dozen friends there who will give good time. A word from me and she score of motor-cars waiting for her at station. ssed the of 3 Mesdames—”’ he addre: veyors of frippery—‘‘it is understood. * morrow all that you can display. Also, know of a lingére—” : ‘Mais moi-méme, Monsiewr—” the millioet broke in. ee “Tt is perfect,” said Pandolio. “T’m glad you think so,” said Paula. (Continued on page 128)

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Locke’s HARPER’S BAZAR THE GREAT PANDOLFO Novel (Continued from page 126) She marshaled the three women out of the room The nurse, distraught, almost fell upon her. She didn’t in the least want to go to Biarritz, although she knew that Sir Victor’s friends must be perfectly nice people. Of course she would love a holiday. She hadn’t had a week off for over a year; but she would like to spend it in Cornwall. Her father was a solicitor in Bodmin with a large family. She yearned to see them. “Haven’t you told him about all that—in the ordinary course of gossip between nurse and patient?” “No,” said the little nurse. ‘You don’t need to talk to Sir Victor. He talks to you.” For a minute or two they argued round the int. Nurse Williams came back to it. What would be the use of all that finery in Bodmin? “Besides,” she added, “I can’t accept it It’s wonderfully generous of Sir Victor—but I really can’t.” “You sha’n’t if you don’t want to,” said Paula. She led the way down the corridor to the landing. There was a cane seat by the side of the lift-cage, on which she invited the nurse to join her. There was another a few yards off by the side of the staircase, to which she motioned the two other women. Pandolfo had put them all into an idiotic position. Paula had to coordinate remote points of view: That of Pandolfo indubitably guileless, thinking only of showering his bounty in the most dazzling way possible on this pleasant and highly efficient little nurse. That of the tradeswomen, compelled by their peculiar experience to the logical con- clusion that an English milord had fallen in love with his nurse—and what more natural? —and desired to set her up in a manner be- fitting his quality. On their faces she read their souls’ prognostics of a dozen dresses and twenty hats, to say nothing of silk stockings and diaphanous et ceteras. Their joint vision embraced at least a thousand pounds sterling. That of Nurse Williams herself, a clean- run, virtuous young Englishwoman, over- whelmed by a generosity monstrously absurd. In the direct, modern way, she said: “If he had been silly, dear Mrs. Field, like lots of other men—and tried to make love to me, I could have understood and dealt with it— I’ve been nursing for nine years and know how to take care of myself—but he hasn’t. I assure you—not that—” she flicked finger and thumb. ‘And he’s such a dear. If he’s not doing something for somebody else, you, Lady Demeter, Mr. Uglow, his chauffeur, his valet, he’s perfectly miserable,” . . and so on and so forth. AULA’S own point of view did not matter. She held herself gloriously aloof. She made quick work of the tradeswomen. ‘They could see that Monsieur, being a man, knew nothing about anything. It would be waste of time to bring out their entire stock in trade to Renes. There was a far simpler way. As soon as the nurse could leave her patient, she would accompany her to Aix and together they would chose the present that, out of gratitude for services, Monsieur desired to make. Paula had a dignified and commanding way with her. The lift disappeared down- wards with two impressed though somewhat obfusticated vendors of vanities. Paula marched back to the sick-room. Nurse Williams followed her, and took refuge on the balcony. There was a pitched battle. Paula set out tersely the nurse’s point of view. “IT don’t care,” he cried, “‘what her point of view is. It’s wrong. I want her to have what she’ll never have again in her life—un- less she happens to marry arich man. I want her to have a month of the best, with pretty clothes and champagne and ease and luxury. She deserves it, doesn’t she? The little fool doesn’t know what she’s refusing. The Blakes are there, General and Lady Burgoyne, the—the Stonor-Mertons, Mrs. Withers—I met you at her luncheon party at the Carlton. They’re as respectable as the front pews in a parish church. You don’t suppose I’d send the child away without seeing she was looked after.” “‘She’s not of their world,” said Paula. ““She’s a darned sight too good for it. But it’s the best Ican do. She's going to Biarritz. I’ve set my heart on it.” “Tf you wriggle about like that,” said Paula, “you'll be going to a world where there are no dressmakers and milliners, as far as I’ve heard, worth speaking about—and where, decidedly, you won’t be allowed to have your own way.” He fumed. who would prevent me. “Out of mere delicacy,” smiled Paula, conscious for the first time of a position of mastery, as she stood calm over the chained giant, “I was referring to the other place, where restrictions are more subtle.” “You're nimbler than I in wit,” said he. “You almost beat me the first time we met.” “And I’ve beaten you now,” said Paula. “T should like to see the devil ” He protested. her ground. “Since your motives come from generosity, you will give Nurse Williams q month’s holiday in Bodmin and commission me to choose her a modest little outfit that won’t outrage the bosom of her family.” “But can’t you understand, I want her to go to Biarritz?” She wrinkled her brow. giving seemed so childish. “Suppose you insisted on her wearing a crown and sitting on a golden throne.” “T would, if l could afford it. I’d make her queen over the whole universal corporation of nurses. A girl like that moiling away in obscurity, with never a golden hour in her life! At any rate, she’ll have a golden month.” “Tn Bodmin.” “Never,” cried Pandolfo. “Then, Sir Victor—” she swept an ironic curtsy, “I regret to give you two minutes’ notice of the end of our pleasant acquain- tance.” They argued. Paula held This vanity of Si E moved toward the door and turned the knob. His deep eyes were fixed on her, The battle crisis was consummated in a tense silence. Presently he beckoned her with his forefinger: “Paula.” It was the first time that he had addressed her so directly. She approached the bed. “I’m not fond of anti-climax. But to please you, the little fool shall go to Bodmin.” He held out a hand which she took in token of bargain. But he held it fast, and drew back her arm so vehemently that, in order to steady herself, she had to put the other hand on the edge of the bed. And during this momentary nearness of their faces, he whispered, so that his voice should not reach the balcony where an anxious and alert young woman was stationed: “And you—won’t you accept everything, heart and soul and body, that I have to give? You know that I’m the only man for you in the wide world. You've got to marry me. You know you have.” At that moment, Nurse Williams, who had heard the preparatory clicking of the door- latch and become aware, as she thought, of the cessation of talk, modestly entered room. The queer attitude of the couple could bear but one interpretation. She uttered a little gasp and bolted back to the balcony. The gasp broke the spell. Paula freed herself from Pandolfo’s relaxed grip and half consciously rubbed her wrist. For all his broken ribs he could exert uncommon physical strength. They regarded each other foolishly, “T’m afraid,” said Paula, ‘this is one of anti-climaxes which you dislike.” Whereupon she fled. “Nurse,” said Pandolfo, when she tr appeared, in obedience to his summons, “you are going to Bodmin and I’m going to many Mrs. Field.” AULA went to her own room in a condition of mind so complicated that, in_the bt journey, she did not seek to unravel it. Time enough when she got there. She found a pile of correspondence, letters and newspapers, awaiting her. She grasped avidly at distraction. The first letter she opened was one from her father, Mr. Christopher Veresy of Chadford Park in Gloucestershire. It was long, and in crabbed handwriting. always skimmed her father’s letters so as t seize the salient facts indicated by the hier- oglyphics, reserving full deciphering for an hour of leisure. Now, the salient facts indicated a tale of dreadful woe. There was something about a scoundrel called Monte Dangerfield in the city, a rigmarole about Patagonian Eldorados—it might have Peruvian Bonanzas, but the first seemed better guess; a wail of ruin; Chadford Park would have to go; the words “a flat in Putney were written with the legibility of despalfs and, also, at first sight decipherable, was intimation to his dearest Paula that, as far a he could see, the continuance of her allow ance was a financial impossibility from 4 heartlessly robbed victim who ha Yh escaped bankruptcy by the skin of his tee The last words were printed. Mr. Veresy scorned imagination in the use of metaphol Paula put down the letter, somewhat — by the apparent loss of half her modes come. Mechanically she pulled —_ rest of her correspondence. Beneath em lay a telegram. It came from Aix-les- = 9g . acetal “Famous for ham and battle. Ss It was only after or Bs je temples that she realized it was udinaten’s cryptic and, from his Lure ot view, entirely unhumorous announcer nad the awful, world-convulsing secret that British been offered the appointment of real Minister to Czecho-Slovakia, of which, the world knows, the capital is Prague. (Continued on page I 30)

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(Trial size not sold in stores.) Mail coupon at once : FALLIS, Inc., Perfumer : 1502 Riverside Drive, Cincinnati ' : Enclosed is $1.00 for generous Trial Box of Peter : Pan OPAL HUE Powder and the amazing story of : its creation. HARPER’S BAZAR THE GREAT PANDOLFO Willram J. Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 128) If, in the circumstances above detailed, she yielded herself, ever so-little, to the hysterical, who can blame her? HERE had been Veresys of Chadford in Gloucestershire from time immemorial. Legend brought the first Veresy over with the Conqueror. The family had to refer to Domesday Book and then skip two or three centuries. Anyhow the first authentic ances- tor had built the castle of Chadford (ot which a wing and a trace of moat still remained) toward the end of the fourteenth century. It was a descent good enough for honest and un- pretentious folk. God had given them the Keep of Chadford, which, owing to the fruit- fulness of broad acres, evolved itself gradually into the amenity of Chadford Park. The whole end and aim of the House had been to keep a Veresy at Chadford. Never till now had there been a hint of failure. Paula could take a humorous view of her ancestry. But through her veins ran the blood of all those to whom the crumbling gray donjon had been a profane Rock of Ages. Chaos had really come again. The broad acres had long, long since vanished from the family grip. But a hard- headed Veresy or two had engaged in the India trade a century ago, and reconstituted the fortunes of the family. Her grandfather had been a director of the Great Western Railway. Her father, who had started an elegant life as a lieutenant in the Dragoon Guards, a position which he surrendered on coming into his estate, she had always con- sidered a man of ample means, in spite of disgruntled comments on the dreadful con- dition of the modern world in which no gentle- man (damme!—his oaths were mellow), would be permitted to exist. She had her young days in the ease of a great establish- ment. On her marriage he had made no settlements, but had offered a generous allowance, which he increased slightly on her widowhood. Of his more recent grumblings she took no more heed than of those of any other comfortable gentleman of his class, Lord Demeter, for instance, who still managed to keep a staff of servants, a few motor-cars and an excellent cellar of port. The ruin of the Veresys was incredible. What had Myrtilla been thinking about? Myrtilla was her elder sister, a confirmed spinster with a hard head and a clock-work organ that went by the name of a heart, who had taken charge of Chadford and Mr. Veresy after the death of their mother some years ago. She wandered round with keys and account books and verified to an ounce the household consumption of meat. Chadford Park was a house run on the scientific lines of a Swiss hotel. Comfort prevailed, but prod- igality was sternly checked. No man less than Mr. Veresy wasted his substance in riotous living. Nor, mild, elderly country gentleman, would he have known how to riot, even had he the inclination. Yet apparently what Myrtilla saved at the bung, he let out lavishly at the spigot. PAULA deciphered the letter and read and re-read it carefully. To a woman of the world it told an old story. Unknown to Myrtilla, her father, afflicted by income-tax, rates, depreciation of securities and such-like pestilences of the post-war world, had been speculating heavily. A groggy insurance company, of which he was a director, had collapsed and he had to obey the summons for unpaid-up shares. It was then, she gathered, that Monte Dangerfield had sprung up like a god out of the financial machine. She had heard of Monte Dangerfield little to his advantage. She had met him and liked him even less than his reputation. Till this moment she had been unaware that her father knew him. But her father was just the sort of man for whom Monte Dangerfield was always looking. And, being on the directorate of various stodgy or crippled companies, he was very easy to find. She recalled the gentle pomposity with which he would announce his journey to London to attend a Board Meeting. Before it was pulled down, he always stayed at Burton's Hotel in Brook Street, because it was a gentleman’s hotel and the valet, who had been there for thirty years, knew his ways like his own man-servant. She used to picture the kindly, white-mustached ex-lieutenant of Dragoon-Guards, sitting with other solemni- ties at a green leather table and listening to glib secretary and chairman rattling off figures of which he had not the least com- prehension, and voting, with sturdy faith, on Authority, as he had voted during a brief tenure of a seat in Parliament. And now Monte Dangerfield had got hold of him and flashed Patagonian Eldorados before his impecunious eyes, and had raked in all the remaining money in the poor desperate gentleman’s possession, There was swindling somehow, she felt sure; Monte Dangerfield indubitably had not lost by the crash of Patagonian Eldorados; and she was aware that he had taken good care to render himself immune from anything like criminal Pros- ecution. She had but to face facts, And then, attendant on these dhfficulties rode sordid personal anxiety Her husba gallant tellow, had left but little. That little had been doubled by her father’s allowance: she had been forced to prudent management in order to keep up her flat in Basil Mansions dress becomingly and take her modest . in the world to which she belonged. Now her income reduced by half, what could she do? She stared at a blank wall. If a woman is an inconsiderable little person, she can, in such circumstances, do many things. She can migrate from Knights. bridge to Turnham Green; she can run up her own little simple gowns; she can attune her. self to whist-drives and other ingenuous pas- times of her neighbors. She can give in. expensive entertainments where the com sit on the floor while a young futurist makes the tea and a callow anarchist spreads the bread and butter. At a pinch she can strew the room with packets of gaspers and not care whether they are pocketed. Or she can take life very seriously and read Tolstoi and Nietsche and Freud and Mrs. Sidney Webb, and throw herselt into Movements and go about lecturing and grow very intense and raddled and interestingly discontented. Or she can betake herself to a dear little work- man’s cottage in a Suffolk village, all chintz and hollyhocks, and marry the curate. There is no end to her potential activities But for a woman of regal beauty, to whom queenly attire seems but an appanage of nature, who has commanded since her entry into the world the world’s ungrudging homage, the problem of poverty is not quite so simple. OF COURSE she could continue her small literary career. But being out of society how could she contribute her social journalistic column? To attend parties professionally and chronicle the names of guests and the description of women’s frocks and jewels was not within the realm of her philosophy. She had the pretty wit that shot folly as it flew; and she had to see it flying. She might also write another novel. . . . The groundwork for one had been in her head for some time. She sighed in despair. Her literary earnings, no matter from what point of view she con sidered them, were only pin-money—an evening dress and a hat or two and a necessary assortment of silk stockings. To take Clara Demeter into counsel was to turn dubiety into the channels of exasperation. According to her, the only course of —_ would be to marry Pandolfo. But she dida want to marry Pandolfo. He was too dynamic; in spite of fascinating childishness, much more a force than a human being. He had laid grip on everything in her save her heart Both instinct and affection bade her take the first train to Chadford and support Myrti in the administration of filial comfort. But that would be flight from Pandolfo, against which her pride revolted. Meanwhile common courtesy ordained & reply to the ham and battle telegram. She scribbled “Congratulations” on a form and sent it down to the concierge Then she wondered whether Spencer would not be scared to death by the possibility of the divination of his secret through her u d expression leading to the further disintegration of Europe. She laughed—and there was @ tender quality in her laughter which su her. Dear, quaint, faithful old Spencer! She lay on her bed, wrapper-clad, preparatory to dressing for dinner, and smiled at her tho She had always been fond of him in an sisterly sort of way, regarding him as 4 perpetual gentle joke. Life would lack some of its sunshine if there were no Spencer to laugh at. Simkin entered in pursuit of duty. What dress would madam wear? Paula was brought back to brutal actuality. On two pence a year how could she afford the nece* sary Simkin who had ministered to her wants from the far-off days preceding her m Simkin was part of herself. They had grow up together at Chadford, where John Simkin had been gardener, boy and man, for $ century, like his father before him. Simkin should be attendant on one of young ladies of Chadford had been her hood’s ambition, her girlhood’s achievement, the complete satisfaction of her woman She loved Paula as far as respect allowed. Paula, in the old aristocratic way, feudal attachment for granted. She - believed firmly in the secular ties of ! Simkins to Chadford. There was somet ool even stronger than blood in the bond = Simkin and herself, While Simkin tay her, the — a to her, — spasm of shock, that they were ani in this world of changed values; that the two (Continued on page 132) AS ae 0 a a Pe eS a ee om

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jor FEBRUARY 1925 Reduce Your Flesh with Dr. Walter’s Rubber Reducing Garments HE entire body or any part can be reduced without dieting by dissolv- ing the fat through perspiration. Reducing Corset In dark or cream colored rubber, re- duces abdomen, hips, thighs and waistline. Send waist and hip measurements. Made to order. Open back and front. $12.00 Reducing Corset pandeau. In cream colored rubber, re- duces the bust. Send bust measurement. $5.00 Neck and Chin Reducer, $3.50 Chin Reducer, $2.50 = SS Anklets, for reducing and shaping the ankles. Send ankle measurement. Light or dark 2 \ rubber Bust Reducing Per pair $7.00 Bandeau Extra high $9.00 Write for booklet to Dr. Jeanne E. Walter 389 Fifth Avenue, New York Near 36th St., Suite 605 Philadelphia— Washington— Mary Kammerer Gibson Co., Inc. 221 South 11th St. o1r7 G Street, N. W, Bac= Sani Fe aoreancsaw™ * Chicago— San Francisco— Buck & Rayner Adele Miller 26 South State St. 177 Post £t. BSERPRESBEBANRaeSPFS ABT YP Krone Bae es 1a ‘ nd te Your EYES Are te Always Noticed a Can you return the obser- sed vant gaze of others with She EYES that are clear and i bright? Or has the lack of det Proper care made them $3 embarrassingly dull and — unattractive? od Daily cleansing with Mur- wa ine will do much to keep er your EYES clear, bright and ants healthy, It quickly relieves et the irritation caused by sun, tin wind, dust and strain. Con- if a tains no belladonna or Fs other harmful ingredients. ild- Our i a on “Eye Care” _ or ie 2. = Aeon The Muri te gee om he hing : RINE, way FoR Your - EYES Y INFIELD “The Jailored Grok. FOR TOWN,SPORT, SCHOOL & COLLEGE — exact type worn by the Younger Set, in town at the smart Country Clubs and Schools. Styles by . JEAN PATOU - DRECOLL JENNY - BERNARD - PREMET and others —developed in exclusive, domestic and imported fabrics, WINFIELD offers you —definite “mode distinction” at moder- ation of price. The Store in Your City Carrying Miss Winfteld Frocks Says So In Its Windows Its Dress Department and Its Local Newspaper CREATED BY J. D. BOOTH & SONS, INC. 501 SEVENTH AVE. NEW YORK 131 is known to countless women as the Natur:! Method of safeguarding ard perpetuating feminine Youth and Charm. It is an authentic, scientific | method, created and perfected by Madame Louise Hermance, under the guidance of eminent | European physicians. Through Ortosan you | Can be assured of genuine success in Body and Beauty Culture The sc.ence of Ortosan is the science of re-normal- izing the colloidal system of the body. When the cells and colloids become exhausted, they fail to function nor- mally. The surface of the skin be- comes soft, wrinkles develop; the face and neckfadealarm- ingly; sagging mus- cles, sallow skin and drooping chin lines appear. : Through genuine external nutrition - - and by direct acti- Aime. ermance , H Creator of Ortosan Products \2tion. the Ortosan OEE 49 exhausted cells and | cellular tissues. The colloids expand. The original contour of the face. neck and chin is restored. The skin becomes firm, lineless and health-tinted. The splendid Ortosan Method frees every woman om the fetish of abusive massage, drastic treatments, worthless cosmetics. It 1s as effective in restoring lithesome youth to the limbs, waist, hips and all parts of the body as it is in winning beauty to the face. In modern beauty culture, Ortosan is a scientific discovery of supreme importance. Complete series of Ortosan Treatments, under direct personal supervision, $500.00 (vicinity of New York only). Set for six weeks" Home Course, individual guidance by cor- respondence, $10.00 postpaid. (Money back if not fully satisfied after three weeks.) The Ortosan Co., Inc. for MME. LOUISE HERMANCE 2255-B Broadway, New York Only Neet, the hair removing cream, can give every girl lovely hair-free skin that charms with its smoothness—arms and shoulders that others envy. Learn how. What who really cares will allow a single un- wan hair to cloud her natural beauty? She cannot feel at ease, happy and confident, unless dainty process. No other method is so convenient and so rapid tisfactory, esp lly for the larger surfaces of legs and arms. With Neet you simply RINSE the hair-away. To h of th ds, it has brough P lovel- ness and charm. Neet comes ready for instant use--is really quicker than shaving and you use it with absolute assur- ance that hair will not come back thicker and coarser than before--as it does after shaving. Cail for Neet by name. Accept no substitute you are unable to find Neet at your drug or dept. store, send us 50c for generous tube by mail. dainty snow-white Cream perspiration of all odor and insures HANNIBAL PHAR Co., 629 Oxive. St. Louis, Ma, MM A 4 AC is the Ask your Neet dealer for IMM. rant that ns

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Inlaid THE GREAT PANDOLFO William J. Locke’s Novet (Continued from page 130) of them represented something very old, very rare, very precious; that their relations, could they be materialized into some outer form, were fit to be preserved in some museum of prehistoric sociology. Dismissal of Simkin would be a rupture of two sacred traditions. ‘I’ve lost a lot of money, Simkin,” said Paula, suddenly “I’m very sorry, madam.” m I'm afraid we'll have to change our way of life.” “Very good, madam.” “T’ve heard of two nice cheap rooms over a butcher’s shop in Islington.” “Tf you'd kindly keep still a moment, madam—” “T’m afraid you wouldn’t like the butcher’s shop, Simkin.” “Tf it’s agreeable to you, I’m sure it will be agreeable to me.” Paula swerved and stamped her foot with an impatient laugh “I’m talking seriously. Things have happened. I can’t tell you about them yet. But it seems that the time’s coming when I sha’n’t be able to afford to have a personal maid.” The plain, pale face grew a shade paler. “You can’t be giving me notice, madam?” “T’m only preparing you for the possibility. L only want to know what you think about it.” GMKIN busied herself with the folding up of garments, while her mistress gave a final polish to her nails. “You’ve taken me all of a heap, Miss Paula,” she said at last, using instinctively the old form of address. “I don’t know what to say. All I know is that, if I left you because you couldn’t afford to pay me the same wages, or any wages at all, if it comes to that, my father would cut me out of his will. He has a tidy sum of money laid by, and ’'m the only child. I should be the loser in the long run.” “And foreigners say we English are an un- emotional people!” said Paula. She went up to Simkin and touched her shoulder. A rare caress. Perhaps the only one since a day long ago, when in her agony Simkin’s arms had clasped her tight around, while she sobbed her heart out. “I hope it won’t come to that, Gwennie; we'll try to stick together.” Gregory Uglow, invited from his lonely table during Pandolfo’s invalidism by a kindly Clara Demeter, joined them at dinner. Paula, woman of the world, was all smiles and graciousness. “T have a message from Sir Victor,” said the young man. “He has insisted on having his bed wheeled into the sitting-room. I'm to say that, won’t the ladies have the sweet charity —those were his words’’—Gregory smiled— “to drink their coffee with him up-stairs?”’ “Why, of course, poor dear man, we shall be delighted,” cried Lady Demeter. He turned for confirmation to Paula. What could she do, out of common (to say nothing of sweet) charity, but assent? They went up after dinner. The open win- dow commanded a view of the new moon coyly peeping over mountain-tops. The room was an extravagant bower of roses. A_ pallid waiter stood over the coffee cups. On the sideboard were ranged the bottles of the hotel’s supply of liqueurs. Little, shy, blue- uniformed Nurse Williams stood by the jamb of the window. Pandolfo lay, of necessity, flat on his back; and, as far as the turned sheets disclosed, was clad in a wonderful red and gold brocade bed-jacket. ‘“‘You don’t know what a job I had to get him into it,” whispered Nurse Williams, during the course of the visit. He out-Pandolfo’d Pandolfo in his welcome Spoke Shakespearianly of the bright eyes of ladies raining influence and proclaimed his wresting from a management not over-con- versant with its cellar the last bottle of their genuine old green Chartreuse. ‘Triumphantly he made the waiter exhibit the tiny lithog- rapher’s imprint on the label, away down on the right-hand bottom’ corner. “Allier Grenoble.” Anything in the world could be got, he declared, if you took enough trouble. “But suppose there really had been none?” asked Paula. “TI never suppose such things,” he flashed. “T work on axioms, not hypotheses ” He developed the thesis, talking pictur- esquely. After that, he made wild projects for a tour of France and Italy—the whole company there assembled, including Nurse Williams, who could go to Bodmin afterwards. Especially did he long to satisfy a yearning to see at Ravenna the paintings of one Luca Longhi, a famous fellow who, he was sure, had suffered ages of neglect. Poor Luca shouldn’t be judged by his saints and lute-playing angel in the Louvre. A lame dog of an old painter, whom he wanted to help over a stile. He spoke with so proselytizing a zeal that all fell under his spell. Ravenna became the Mecca of their dreams and the cathedra! the tomb of the Prophet Luca Longhi. m™ a would be lovely!” cried Clara Demeter “T’ve never been on a motor tour.” sighed Nurse Williams. = “Don’t you think the mere word ‘Italy’ has a fascination for one who has never been there?” said Gregory Uglow. “Why not go to Rimini—not far off?” asked Paula, quietly. ; “Why not? Yet why?” “Tt’s most interesting. I went there as a girl. It’s the home of the Great Pandolfo— the Malatesta ”’ E SHOT out a vivid and disconcerting hand: “We shall; if such be your pleasure. And we'll buy a palazzo—and a Pandolfo will run Rimini again.’ Suddenly he snapped his fingers and drummed on his forehead like a man _ recalling memories “Yes, I’m right I know I’m right. I can visualize the page of the book—Iriarte—] never forget. Do you remember the name of the wife of him whom you call the Great Pandolfo?” “Of course not. How should I?” “Tt was Paola—Paola Bianca—” He clasped both his hands behind his head on the pillow, and regarded her triumphantly. She looked aside in confusion. Against this man gibes fell powerless, like India-rubber tipped arrows. Perhaps, more like boomerangs coming back unexpectedly to hit her. For a crazy moment she felt herself the butt of all kinds of idiot dooms and destinies. Clara broke the situation “Tm sure, Sir Victor, you’re making that up. “Come to Rimini and see for yourself. There’s a tomb—” “Oh, now you're horrid. Our dear Paula hasn’t the least desire to be preserved in marble.” Paula rose. “I’m going to be preserved in lavender. I’ve had an SO S call to-day from Chadford. Yes, really, Clara. I must get home as soon as I can find a seat on a train—” ““My dear—your father?—” “T must help Myrtilla.” “Who's Myrtilla?”’ asked Pandolfo. “My sister.” “And your father—is he ill—dying?” “He needs my help,” said Paula. The watchful nurse sprang to the bedside and laid capable hands on the shoulders of the vehement man who was about to spring up regardless of delicately healing ribs. He submitted but pushed her aside impetuously, and bent his clear eyes on Paula. “Tllness is a private affair between God and doctors. I wouldn’t presume to interfere But in anything else, your help is my help Believe yourself—and tell him if you like— ~ that the spiritual, if not the physical de- scendant of the great Pandolfo, whose wife was Paola Bianca, is a rock of defense.” Lady Demeter came up, with anxious face. “What’s this that you’ve sprung on us? What’s it all about?” Paula pulled herself together—resenting her betrayal of feminine nerves—and laughed. She obeyed the inspiration of a devil of defiance. “Forgive me if I’ve been a bit off my balance. But the dear old thing—that’s my father—has written me the most exciting news. They’ve discovered that the richest coal-mine in the West County runs w Chadford Park. He’s half off his head with joy. It means that we'll be millionaires and that I’ll be able to satisfy my life’s ambition and buy a moated grange and live there all alone and fade gradually into lilac silk and die in the odor of lavender. Now you know. She swerved, smiling to Pandolfo. ‘I thank you, Sir Victor, for your offer—but I don't think my father would need your help in running a coal-field.” : He smiled, luminously and _ ironically. “There, my dear,” said he—she winced at the word’s possessive familiarity—‘is where you make a mistake. There’s nothing in world which a professional cannot run better than an amateur. Put your father in to with me.” “And with Demeter,” cried Clara, “there's a fortune in it for everybody. é “Except for me,” said Pandolfo, seriously. “It would be an outrage if I contemplated the gain of a penny. I give, I do not sell to our dear lady.” (THERE was the gilt thundering upon her avalanche-wise, of all his genius and mag- netic power in the development of this myt logical coal-field discovered in some perverse kink of her brain. Lunatic as it might appear, he believed her story. And why not: Had she not told it—trained social actress that she was—in the most natural way in ¢ world? She was conscious of a clash of t between Clara and Pandolfo, Clara prevailing. Nurse Williams sat on a straight-backet honestly staring, open-mouthed. G Uglow leaned forward scientifically in (Continued on page 134) HARPER’S BAZAR = |

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for FEBRUARY 1925 aru a - rn Aes oe ) wi “SOMMER S-Inc. 27 W. 50TH STREET xX - OR EO ae? iv? & bis Marvels K not-Effect Beadean: Effect New developments in Parme’s technique. Note the inimi- table parting in the Transformation illustrated. “ADORA,” a striking origination for hiding bobbed hair when the occasion demands it, is at last perfected by Parme. It can be worn like a bandeau or in a knot effect for the back of the head only.—If you have a head-dress problem, consult Parme. a 2 in “fp; © 18 West 57th Street Booklet New York eLTXTTITIXTIITINTITIT Tiki Will You Be a Representative of Harter’s Bazar? OMEN OF CULTURE can make that extra money that seems always to be needed and, certainly, always to be welcome, by acting as local representatives in their communities for Harper’s Bazar. The one requirement is that you have a telephone of your own; for the work is carried on in your own home, over your own telephone. We furnish you with a list of past readers of Harper’s Bazar as well as likely readers. Harper’s Bazar, as you know, is one of the smartest magazines pub- hed and that is why, no doubt, so many discriminating women are now acting, with great success, as its representatives. lis For full particulars write to MARGARET DUNBAR Care of HARPER’S BAZAR 119 West goth St., New York a THESE ARE THE PURE GOLD OF THE KINGDOM OF PERFUMES a They Could Only be Made in Paris for They Are DOUBLE LASTING HISPER to yourself this: Gabilla—double lasting! you have named parfums of a variety, at last, worthy of you. It is true. Madame Gabilla’s are true French parfums. They are based on the true grape alco- hol—to be procured in France only. They are aged for years, these vintage odeurs, like vintage wines, to make them double lasting. And only after this long, artful course are they bottled in crystal and sent overseas to lay exotic fingers upon your hair, your gown. Discover the most distinguished toiletries counter in your city, and you will find them there—double ~~» — lasting—les parfums extraordinaires de Gabilla. Unlike many so-called ‘French’? perfumes, which are actually made and boitled in the United Y States—the parfums of Madame Gabilla are if made and bottled in Paris, France—and they - always will be. Fleur du Jour and Mon Cheri extraits come in 1 and 2 oz. sizes, but the 2% oz. de luxe sizes illustrated here retail for $12.50. Sole Distributors for the U.S. A. EVERETT-GOULD, Inc. 116 West 39th St., New York

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134 The Town (oat Svelte and tailored from Jeweltone in The Ensemble (ostume Coat of Jeweltone in the delightful shade of “tigereye,” has lining elaborated with gold “moccasin” thread lace. Collared with fur. Frock of shade. Bordered matching “Kortege Faille.” Both coat with white skunk and frock richly embellished with contrast- and lined with ing silk and gold thread embroidery. self color crepe. eAdmiring Eves follow the modish miss attired in the spring ensemble costume, or the woman who is irre- sistibly charming in top-coat or tailored frock created by THE HOUSE OF YOUTH. A veritable “spring song of loveliness.” At- tire wherein every detail is individual, every phase charming, and the entire concept from silhouette to tailoring mirrors the most authentic and beautiful of fashion’s moods. “Success in Dress,” an exclusive and interesting fashion publica- tion, will be mailed you upon receipt of your name and address. We will be glad to acquaint you with the name of the nearest shop which carries “IIQUSE OF YOUTH” aitire. SCHULMAN & HAUPTMAN 224 WEST 35th STREET, NEW YORK THE PARIS MODE HARPER’S BAZAR IN THE MAKING (Concluded from page 58) Fine laces always take a certain place in the spring mode, and the colored and metal ones will be used for evening. Lelong has revived point d’esprit for pretty dance frocks, and tulles and Georgette crépe will attempt to rival the more popular chiffon. LININGS AND FROCKS ININGS are extremely interesting. For a long time the coats of the summer ensem- bles have been lined with the material of their light frocks, and this useful and pretty fashion will continue. Jenny has the oddest lining I ever saw. It is in a coat frock of navy marocain, and is of a gay printed crépe. In the hand, the frock looks like a huge double square, marocain on one side and crépe on the other. The crépe makes the front, and one gets inside the square and folds the two marocain sides over, tying them with a belt. I fear that this inadequate description does not bring a clear mental picture, but that is the nearest I can come to it. Vionnet does odd things in incrustations of one color on another in her wrap and coat linings. Many houses, including Worth, use double and triple lining edges on their coats; others have separate linings attached only at the shoulders. Callot’s linings are like futurist paintings; Chéruit’s are cubist studies. Of course, the couturiers are much too clever not to prepare some surprises. They like headlines as well as any cinema star, and they know that extreme novelty is the best publicity puller. The majority, however, are not lying awake nights in order to think up sensations. As they sagely put it: ‘‘ What is the use of our risking thousands of francs’ worth of material in creating novelties which may win admiration, but which will certainly not bring an adequate return for their initial cost? Women want simple models, pretty much what they have been wearing, with some detail to mark them as ‘of the season.’ ” For one “creation” of fabulous novelty, they sell a thousand of the “wearable” type. The answer, in this commercial age, is obvious. Wearable models are good business, but they are not exciting to write about. But we little realize how well off we are in comparison with even quite recent periods. They have just given an “old fashioned” operetta, at the Théatre de l’Etoile, with the inimitable Yvette Guilbert. The scene is set in the ’Eighties, and anything more inane than those centaur-like women it is impossible to im- agine. Think of wearing a round wave, a chignon, a wasp waist, a trailing skirt, fourteen yards of material, five petticoats, and a bustle on the same devoted body all at the same time! NEWEST EXTRAVAGANCES EFORE the war the favorite extravagances of élégantes were always said to be laces, furs, and jewels. Nowadays, one would have to substitute perfumes for the first named. The present day élégante may have a collection of inherited lace, but it is highly improbable that she is adding to it. Perfumes, however, are for her an irresistible temptation. Nearly all the couturiers are inventing new ones—a blind man would know when he was passing THE GREAT PANDOLFO Lecke’s William J. Worth’s by the flood of “Dans la Nuit” which engulfed him. When the transatlantic visitors appear again in their cohorts, they will find a new landmark in the rue Cambon. It jg Chanel’s perfume shop, very like a laboratory, with glass shelves holding whole families, unig the third and fourth generation, of square bot- tles, yellow, green and amber Callot’s salons are set with tables holding characteristic gold boxes tied with green ribbons. At Lanvin’s a jeune fille passes with her hands full of atomizers, and sprays you as if you were the deadly Sphinx moth, or whatever it is that is so destructive to expensive vegetation If laces are no longer a pet extravagance furs and jewels are still formidable, The latter are growing positively enormous. The rings began it, then the brooches, and now the bracelets are widening and broadening in keeping. Mrs. Nash, who they used to say wore more bracelets on one arm than any other woman in Paris, now wears two wide ones in huge emeralds and diamonds, or two wide ones and a narrow one. The stones are all’ set perfectly flat, in the new fashion, Sometimes they make a wonderful design, like filet lace, or like a ribbon of roses, or a wan- dering garland of leaves and blossoms. Some- times the larger stones are surrounded with those “‘batons”’ of diamonds, or stones cut in flat oblongs, as big as a grain of rice, which are an invention of Cartier’s. We hear con- stantly that the strings of pearls, without which the é/égante could not even go in bath- ing, are giving place to other types of neck- lace. It is true that I see a number of dia- mond, or diamond'‘and emerald, necklaces, but I notice that those women who have beautiful pearls continue to wear them on all occasions. The only thing is that the colored stones of all the jewels worn at once must match. And this really explains the reason for the raising of artificial jewelry to its present proud and ostentatious position. When stones must be huge, and must match, only a limited few can have them real. As to Furs S TO furs, they are so important in the pres- ent wardrobe that they know no seasons. We wore fur coats and fur collars on our coats all last summer, and we are apparently pre- paring to continue so to do. Hundreds of spring models are trimmed with fur, of the flat, smooth kind which is neither very warm nor looks it. The so-called Turkish fox, that light- shaded beige fur, is ragingly popular and becom- ing, but really too fluffy for summer weather. Premet has found a clever substitute for fur; feathers of all kinds of fowls, used in cuffs and collars. Jean Patou, as you may see further® back in this book, has done a shaggy hem with the tan neck feathers of the barnyard cock. In shoes, there are new Hellstern pumps” with a little decoration on one side, the out-~ é side only, in colored kid on patent-leather. ~ There are also the shoes which Perugia made © for Jane Marnac to wear in “Manon, Fille™ Galante,” the last piece of Henri Bataille, which she had to stop playing when she $I denly fell desperately ill. These shoes are 9 interesting, and so graceful, with their | decorative tongues and buckles, that they = may well influence the spring fashion. MARJORIE HOWARD. Novel (Continued from page 132) “Tt’s all in the air—a coal-field in the air—” Pandolfo’s expense. If he wants to give, Tl I must keep my “So you see I must ” she laughed nervously. go home and explore it. “As soon as these confounded ribs are stuck together, I’ll come and explore it with “By aeroplane,” said Paula. ‘“‘Good night.” A while later she had an aghast and pro- foundly shocked Lady Demeter staring at her. “ And not a word of truth in it? “Not a word.” The bewildered lady proclaimed her amaz- ing and asked the reason for her monstrous invention. Paula fenced. At last she spoke, desperately. “The man has got on my nerves. I can’t stand it. I’m not going to be stuck in a marble tomb with him forty vears hence—to say nothing of the intervening period. Yes. I’m a coward if you like. I give up the struggle. I'll run away. Can I have the use of your car to-morrow? Oh—not to dash off to safety’’—she laughed at her friend’s dis- concerted face—‘‘only to Aix. I’ve promised the little nurse to get her a trousseau—at ” teach him how to do it. engagement before I leave, mustn't I? fill up to-morrow. The day after I'm 1% home. I have the car?” “Of course, my dear, with pleasure. AN@s by the way, you can take over a little parc for Spencer Babington. It came by night’s post. It’s some nice silk and wool bed-socks like Frank’s. I promised to 8 . . ” him some the last time he came over. Paula bit her lips, clenched her hand behind her, and looked down on the kind and comfortable lady. ¥ “T’ve had enough to try me to-day, Clara, ; she said. “My hump’s at the breakings point. Don’t throw on the last straw. ns take Spencer Babington guns or motor-cy@®s= or skates or absinthe or anarchist literature ro anything of that sort you like, but I'll see a and everybody else in Hades before rll j him ~aepue santa “But why—?” ‘ “Because.” said Paula, “I’m gomg Ben to-morrow to tell him that I'll marry (To be continued in the March issue) As for his ribs—you and the youngs: man can look after them. The point 1s—C@Bigy

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“for FEBRUARY 1925 At Last! Here’s a‘Vanifle nae Belek-io Levela sg Crhat Cannot Advance Fashions New Apparel for early Spring and Southern wear. Reproductions of the incoming modes, selected with discrimina- tion, and adapted in the correct slenderizing pro- portions for full-figured women. Sizes 38 to 56. ENSEMBLES FROCKS COATS FURS LINGERIE MILLINERY SHOES If unable to visit any of our stores, write to Dept. O2 for new Style Book fone Pryant 6 W. 39th St., 21 W. 38th St., New York Hanover Place, nr. Fulton St., B’klyn CHICAGO DETROIT 101 N. Wabash Ave. 1452 Farmer St. Gray Hair Banished in [5 minutes Thousands of wo- men of the most ex- acting discrimination are insisting upon INECTO RAPID Notox for this one reason: INECTO RAPID Notox | creat by science ex- pressly for coloring the sensitive organism of hu- man hair is_ specifically guaranteed to reclaim per- manently the original col- or of gray, streaked or faded hair. It may be had in 18 shades, from radiant blonde to raven ; and pert under the og 2 serutiny its application cannot detected. It will neither rub off nor be affected by shampooing, curling, | salt water, rspiration, sunshine, Turkish or Russian baths. It will not affect permanent waving—and ery waving does not affect NECTO RAPID Notox. Contains No paraphenylene diamine. The highest class Hairdressers from Coast to coast use and endorse INECTO RAPID Notox as do the many thousands of American women who tae be it with invariable success within the privacy of their own Beware of imitations—look for NOTOX on the package. It is your protection. Me SEND NO MONEY erely ask us to send full s about INI ECTO tO RAPID = = our ear Analysis INECTO, Inc. Laboratories and Salons 33-35 West 46th St., New York, N. Y. Sold by best Beauty Shops. Drug and Department Stores be oe ae oe he ae et nd ae ne de ngtenentant at states ete - BORA HE Xe more. shiny nose! The more persistently shiny your nose is, the more you have been annoyed and embarrassed by the need for re- peated powdering—the more you will appreciate Vauv. It’s such a wonderful new cream! Just one application stops shine instantly, and keeps it off for hours and hours. Smooth on a touch of Vauv, add a light dusting of pow- der, and then—for hours and hours, never a thought of a shiny nose! Vauv has this greater effectiveness because it is based on a new and more effective principle—not simply to cover up shine for a few moments, but actually to prevent it by absorbing excess oil. Vauv is absolutely harmless. It does not clog the pores in the least, but really cleanses them. By its absorbing action, it takes up the impurities from the skin and carries them away when it is washed off. Send for sample Get a tube of Vauv today, and see how different it is from anything else you have ever used, how much more effec- tive! You can buy it at your drug store or toilet goods counter, price 5o0c for a tube that will last many weeks, even with regular daily using. Or fill out the coupon below, and mail it to us with 53c for a regular-size tube; or roc for a generous sample. THE VAUV CO. (for Jane Morgan) 182 Blair Ave.. Cincinnati, Ohio From Hollywood * Anapplicationof Vauvinthe morning, and I don’t have to give my nose another thought for hours. How much worry = and trouble women would PRESUMES VOUS have been saved 1f they had nr always had acream hkethis! THE VAUV CO. (for Jane Morgan) Constance Bennett 182 Blair Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio ‘ (Check whichever you want) From Paris O Lam enclosing 53c for full-size tube of Vauv “Your cream gratefully re- © Iam enclosing 10c for sample tube of Vauv ceived and I am glad to tell you that I am delighted with | Name.. the results and find it excel- lent. I thank you for your | Street (or P.O Box) -----vo- --cov---ve-eeeeeee-wwcestoeeencees ox so seenenen kindness.” Mss. F. H. F., Paris, France Your Dealer’s name and address ..-.-.-----. ------ -----sseees: e+ seseeeee When it’s empty, refill : it yourself in a few seconds with your | favorite soft powder. Norida Vanitie comes filled with Fleur Sau- vage (wildflower) Pou- ‘dre, in your favorite shade. Sold in all stores

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HARPER’S BAZAR pt? : cAnd again—only $130 more than the open car cAnnouncing the New Marmon Brougham-Coupe, with four (4) doors, a strictly high-grade unstinted, full-fledged closed car for five passengers, at only $130 more than the open car mm ~~ In producing fine closed cars at virtually open car price, Marmon does not limit you in your selection to one body type or attempt the impossible feat of standardizing beauty. Specifically, Marmon offers you: —a genuine, five-passenger Sedan with [4] doors, already announced, at only $130 more than the open car —and now, a genuine, modern vie cea fy with four [4] doors at the same unprecedented price—only $130 more than the open car. These cars are not “coaches” and should not be confused with that justly popular type. It is the Marmon’s principle of quality that, in closed car design, four doors are indi just as a full-width, — undivided front seat, fine upholstery and staunch construc- Fae tion are indispensable. Marmon believes that quality buyers ‘ still want — Under the New Marmon Program, Mar- & mon has found a way to give it to you at only $130 more tay than the open car. j These cars have identically the same chassis and engine ch. which go into the New Marmon de luxe models—the same chassis and engine on which Marmon has concentrated for years, but with many new advancements and refinements. Prices of New Marmon (Series 74) $3165 to $3975 f. o. b. Indianapolis, exclusive of tax Cars may be purchased on convenient deferred payment plan, if desired NORDYKE & MARMON COMPANY, Indianapolis, Indiana Established 1852 The New MARMON Brougham-Coupe on the Marmon chassis of 136-inch wheelbase, only $130 more than the open car. “The NEW © Also— A comprehensive selection of new de luxe body styles, permitting in- timate expression of personal tastes.

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