Harper's Bazaar 1924-12: Vol 59

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Harper's bazar Number 2546 57th Year The Christmas Number DECEMBER 1924 AvIs my OUS les modeles reproduits dans notre magazine sont la propriété de leurs créateurs. Les reproductions, imi- tations ou contrefagons méme partielles peuvent toujours entrainer contre leurs auteurs des poursuites de la part des créateurs et de 1’ Association des Arts Plastiques et A ppliqués en France et al’ Etranger. LET Us Do YourR CHRISTMAS SHOPPING HIS December issue is full of a diversity of things. It is one of those pleasant crowded numbers that keeps you skipping from page to page before you decide what to read first. Better begin with Christmas presents. ‘ Ad- ventures in Giving "’ on page sixty-two starts the Christmas- present folio, and leads by natural and easy transition through pages of gifts for the most difficult to please of your women friends, through pages of things for the man whose good taste is a byword among his friends, to pages of all kinds of amusing toys and charming objects for children. Your WINTER SPORTS WARDROBE HIS is the winter sports number, too. Everything you will need to know about buying a winter’s sports wardrobe—one that is practical and extremely smart— begins on page forty-nine. If you haven’t thought how nice it would be to spend the Christmas holidays at the Lake Placid Club or the Chateau Frontenac, you will when you finish reading this article. A NEw FASHION ATMOSPHERE seemed this issue has so many interests, the fashion section is unusually strong. ‘The Theory of Elimination,” beginning on page seventy-nine, states most definitely and in minute and illuminating detail what has happened to the mode since the beginning of the season. It is a very delicate thing but definite, and points out an entirely new atmosphere for the smart woman. NEXT MONTH: ceeemienermntinggs palmate f Cover by Erté Page The Parisienne—and the Champs Elys Drawn by Etienne Drian. 48 “The Great Chic Out-of-Doors,” by Lucile Buchanan Drawings by Grace Hart Es eee LERNES OY RAMONE SUMMED. go ox oo saw caseciss.s oases oe Re See Os Reboux’s Newest Success Photographed by Baron de Meyer Baron de Meyer Writes of Jean Patou Photographs by Baron de Meyer... ee “The Great Pandolfo,” a New Novel of Dazzling ‘People and Smart P "leg Ey William J. Locke Illustrated by Henry Raleigh ‘Adventures in Giving,” Describing How a Woman of Taste Compiles her Christmas List Photographs by Paul Outerbridge, Drawings by Samuel D. Otis......... Herman Patrick Tappé Proves that the Manner of Gift-giving Shows the Genius of the Giver Drawings by Katharine Sturges. . “Why,” a Story W here the Hazard Was Two to One, by M: LV y Edginton Illustrated by H. R. Sutter Débutantes of the New York Season “The Theory of Elimination in Dress,” by Marie Lyons Draw ings by Malaga Grenet Drawings by Reynaldo Luza : Lady Diana Manners Poses for Her Portrait i in n Reboux’s New Hats Drawings by Mary MacKinnon “The Black Virgin,”? Who Was Brought to Unwilling Reparation, by E. Phillips Oppenheim Illustrated by Marshall Frants............ esa ree 3, 89 Photograph of Lynn Fontanne eres ea te go “How Dramatic Critics Just Happen,” by Percy Hammond ava we cada gl Erté and His Flair for Furs .92, 93, 94; 95 Motors from Six Nations Make Their Début Drawings by Samuel D. Otis. . . 96, 97 Last Minute Sketches from Paris ae 98, 99 The Newest Hats in Paris.......... ese he 100 FASHIONS FOR THE SOUTH Harper's Bazar is published monthly in the U.S. A. by the International Magazine Company, Inc., William Randolph Hearst, president; C. H. He athaway, vice-president; Ray Leng, vice-presidents Joseph A. Moore, treasurer; Austin W. Clark , secretary, 119 West 40th Street, New York City. Single copies, 50 cents. fearly subscription in United States and dependencies, $4.00, In Canada, $5.00. In foreign countries, $6.00. (All subscriptions are payable in advance and at the full price.) When you receive notice that your subscription has expired it is best to renew it at once, using the blank enclosed. When changing an address, give the old address as we Office as second-class mail matter. Copyright, 1924, by the International Magazine Company, Inc. (Harper's Bazar). first copy to reach you. Entered at the New York Post Offi Il as the new and allow five weeks for the Harper's Bazar is fully protected by copyright and nothing that appears in it may be reprinted either wholly or in part without permission.

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ZAR B 1s Re A my Re gy

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UBER 1924 Co | ark / The sweater with wide horizontal stripes is excessively smart for sports this winter; so is the gay scarf with lightning-like design woven in it. What Was Smart tin the Frozen THE GREAT CHIC OUT-OF-DOORS North Last Year Looks Very Odd This Season; Skit Breeches Areas Subject to Modes as Dinner Gowns By Lucile AST winter, when you had on ski breeches, two or three pairs of woolen hose, a slip-on sweater, and a gay sash, you felt like an advertisement for skiing in Quebec and rather fancied yourself as looking quite gay and posteresque. You were, too. But this winter you will think what a strange little caricature on skis you were, to be sure, when you contemplate your last year’s winter sports costume and compare it with what you will wear this season. Because, the costume complete, the ensemble that has changed our lives so completely during these last few seasons, has now made itself known in winter sports circles, too. Last year’s gay knickers and gayer sweater and a scarf thrown in to make it gayer, have an oddly miscellaneous look, now that breeches, sweaters, scarfs, hose, and caps are all chosen with a definite harmony in mind, just as your daytime costume is chosen, and your evening gowns and wraps. The width of a sweater stripe may decide whether your costume is smart or not. The ski sweater you wore last season was gaily striped with vertical lines, perhaps. This season you will want one with horizon- tal bars like a man’s bathing-suit, very wide, and extraordinarily gay. Then, the knickers must match one of the stripes, the scarf and cap match or har- monize with both of these. This season, too, you will want to wear a sweater BUCHANAN that is much more fitted than last season’s, one that molds to the figure more, and that defines a definite waist-line. With this you will wear a narrow leather belt, or a narrow woven woolen belt with two tassels at one side, or no belt at all. The wide sash around the hips is not as smart as it was last season. Another thing. There are two new kinds of ski breeches this year. One consists of rather scant knickers, cut not like riding-breeches, but like knickers, worn with long flexible woolen gaiters that button up over the knee. Another very smart new mode is to wear long woolen hose that come half-way up the thigh. These are worn over knickers of the riding-breeches type, cut very tightly over the knees. The long wool hose are very tight and stay up because of this, and the fact that there is a special tightly woven band at the top that acts as an elastic. With this type of breeches is worn a very close-fitting knitted jumper that ends just a little below the waist-line and is held at the waist by a narrow leather belt. The jumper, breeches, and hose, are all the same color, such as white, or flame-color, or a gay mustard color. Little short socks that roll over the tops of the ski boots are spotted with gay contrasting color; a helmet that acts as a scarf and cap and allows only the face to show, matches long knitted woolen gaunt- lets, of some gay color that (Concluded on page 130)

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HARPER’S BAZAR WINTER SPORTS OUT OF DOORS AND IN OMEN take their winter sports just as strenuously as men now. It seems just a mere trifle, my dear, for a slip of a girl to carefully powder her nose and then hurl herself down a ski run without so much as disarranging an eyelash. As for long snow-shoe walks, and whole afternoons of skiing across the frozen crust, they are as nothing to an active winter sports woman. She is aided in all this by having exactly the right clothes for her sports. Not for a moment is she hampered by skirts, however short. Her clothes are almost identical with those the men wear, no less practical and to the point, and she has learned she needs, in the frozen north, but little, but needs that little carefully and cleverly attached to her person. WHAT Not TO WEAR T IS not necessary to wear a great many clothes in any of the winter resorts; on sunny days when the air is dry and the snow is dry underfoot, there is almost an illusion of summer in the quality of the sunlight. Only light warm costumes are needed for days like this, and certainly not a quantity of bulky furs. A short fur jacket or blouse has many uses for winter sports. One of the blouse type, made of ermine or sheared rabbit, is made full like a Russian blouse, with ample sleeves, and tunic that falls over the hips. This is worn with a leather belt, or a narrow scarf of vivid design, tied around the waist. The sleeves have knitted cuffs with tight wristbands, and the neck- band is close fitting to keep out the wind and snow. A blouse like this may be worn over a lumberjack’s shirt, checked largely in black and color, or may be worn over a silk shirt if that is too warm. The short fur jacket is convenient to wear over a sweater or wool shirt. As a rule this jacket doesn’t fasten in front, but is held in place by a gay leather belt. Short jackets of kasha cloth or wool velours are often lined with soft leopard fur or with sheared rabbit. Those lined with leopard are particularly picturesque, because a collar of the gaily spotted fur appears next to the face. THE NEw Sports SILHOUETTE T IS amusing to see how old fashioned last year’s sports clothes look. It is not that this season’s are so radically different, it is rather that they have a different expression. The whole silhouette is lighter and slimmer, in the first place, and not nearly so bundled up. The smartest Skiing and tea at the Lake Placid Club Wide horizontal stripes, like those shown al the upper left of this page, are excep- tionally smart for sweaters this season. The sweater shown here is blue and white. The other two costumes at the left are decidedly of this season. One has long supple woolen leggings that button over the knee; the other a slim, knitted jumper. This year a new type of ski costumes At the right, is a cream-colored wool This vivid horizontal lightning is achieved appears; very long woolen hose over scant jacket, lined with leopard cat fur, worn either by being knitted in or by kasha cloth knickers. The knitted wool jumper is over a striped wool shirt of orange and set into a kasha jumper of another color; closer fitting than last vear’s sweater. yellow. Wool breeches of cream color. like this one of black and vermilion.

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for DECEMBER 1924 For tobogganing the same type of costume is used as for skiing. Small close- fitting knitted caps, and enormous wool scarfs are warm and very picturesque. WHAT TO WEAR FOR BOTH OF THESE blouse to wear with breeches is not a heavy sweater, but rather a wool jumper fitted to the figure, or a sweater made rather close fitting with only a peplum over the hips, and that rather scant. This gives a very slim boyish silhouette, and compares to the old bulky sweater silhouette rather as this year’s ‘‘shingle’”’ compares to the old “bob.” The tiny felt hat that Reboux has made for any and all occasions is excellent to wear with the sports clothes one wears when one is just playing the réle of onlooker of sports, or when walking, attired in a wool sports frock and top-coat to match, but of course is unsuitable and entirely useless for active sports. For skating, it is most attractive to have a tight little cap of the fabric one’s skating costume is made of, banded with fur and very warm and snug. For skiing, tightly knitted wool or silk caps, not of the tam-o’-shanter type but much more closely fitting and finished with a pompon at the top, are most becoming and are smartest this season. Little fur caps, made like a Russian cap with a straight band around the head and a tiny crown, are very smart. They match the fur jacket or the fur lining of a jacket. NEW SKI BREECHES KI breeches have developed from unobtrusive homespun knickers to cleverly designed breeches cut rather scant at the top, and tight over the thigh so that very long wool hose may be worn with them, hose that come half-way up the thigh. These overlap the knickers by about eight inches, so that the snow cannot penetrate. They are especially comfortable for walking—or falling —into deep snow, much better than the golf hose that go up to the knee and stop there in a roll and invite snow to nestle comfortably within. One most important thing to remember when you buy your winter sports outfit is to get plenty of pairs of short socks to wear over your long wool hose. These socks are rolled over the tops of the shoes in a tight little roll to keep the snow out. They may be any vivid color; the gayer they are, the more amusing they are. For walking you will want high-laced boots, oiled and flexible and with the tongue made in one piece with the shoe. For snow-shoeing you will need moccasins; for skiing you will need ski-boots with concave heels to hold on the ski-thonz. This is most important, and many of the sports goods houses will blandly sell you shoes with straight heels for skiing if you let them. Tobogganing at Quebec and Dancing at the Chateau Frontenac (Left) 1 new type of scarf, made of closely knitted wool, with enormous motifs of aboriginal influence. Magenta and cerise, yellow and red, and white and red. For all winter sports, it is important to ha-e the edges of one’s costume all overlap properly against the penetrating snow. “ Shingle’? yourself against the weather. It is more important to have one’s costume snow-light this way, than it is to wear many or extremely warm clothes. For sports one needs few and light clothes. i Pr hee aan. ah eee ected ea Winter days and nights are an amusing contrast. Lovely formal evening toilettes with many strands of pearls at night; weeds and sweaters and knickers by day.

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SS ae NNN Is ARR NET Sana OTHER A one-piece kasha cloth frock is as useful in the open spaces as intown. Wood tan kasha with green kasha and brown embroidery. From Alice M. Gaynor. Enormous dark blue and bright yellow checks in woolly kasha duvetyn fabric. scarf and narrow belt. From Abercrombie and Fitch. There is a matching Tweed, and very tailored, with a seven-eighths coat and a gay outer blouse of vivid color. A three-piece costume for warmer winter days. From Abercrombie and Fitch. KIND OF LTHOUGH at most winter resorts you go about in knickers and sweaters most of the time, another type of sports costume is just as important. This is the costume that starts with a little kasha cloth or other wool frock, and has a warm, roomy top-coat to wear over it. Bulky fur coats are somehow not quite as practical because they prevent active walking and hamper movement. They are necessary for motoring and sleigh-riding, and are worn by those intrepid souls who take walks under the winter stars; but to stand WINTER SPORTS CLOTHES in the warm sunshine and watch a little exhibition skiing, or to walk over the dry powdered snow on sunny days, the wool sports costume, with or without fur trimming, is most satisfactory. Then, too, one gets uncommonly fed-up on the knickers and sweater costume. It is worn all day both at the Lake Placid Club and at Quebec, both for tea and for dancing in the afternoon, and a little wool sports costume with a tiny felt hat to match is a welcome relief occasionally. Playing Mah Jongg in knickers always strikes, as the HARPER’S

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for DECEMBER 1924 ON Sie | Som : a ra Se Ske We The upper half of this top-coat is of bright red, the lower part gray and black Rodier fabric. It has a gray and black fox collar. From Grande Maison de Blanc. ¥ seme SNC ORES > sO ae Wool cheviot of a peculiar brick color, extremely smart, has deep fur trimming of brown dyed skunk. An excellent sports top-coat. From L. P. Hollander. Gray kasha duvetyn; a simple frock underneath. An unusually smart type of costume to wear when not actively engaged in sports. From Henri Bendel. fashion writers are so fond of saying, an odd note. Of course, the ensemble costume is very smart for this type of sports costume. The sports en- semble does not have to be as carefully har- monized as the town costume. Sometimes gay contrasting frock and wrap are more interesting than the analogous coat, frock, and hat. Vivid scarfs are still excellent form for the sports costume. To wear along scarf of crépe or wool, so that a line of its color shows at the neck-line and down the front, is to add definite smartness to the sports costume. When just a wool frock is worn, it is often extremely effective to wear a scarf wound twice around the throat, quite closely, with a knot and ends in back. Some winter sports frocks are no more than wool slips with wide leather belts, just a background for scarfs and an indicator of the smart silhouette. With these are worn the long narrow gay scarfs and the gay felt hats without one scrap of trim- ming. The kasha cloth or flannel sports frock made with the little straight jumper and scant skirt with inverted plaits in the front or on the sides is newer and extremely smart. This is the type of sports frock Chanel is making this winter. When skirts are plaited, it is with a minutely fine box plait, and not with last season’s knife plait. Many skirts are plaited in the front only, and perfectly flat in the back.

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HARPER’S BAZAR Reboux has made another highly successful and extremely con- tagious hat. It is the hat in Paris now. First the cloche with its round crown, then the square-crowned hat of early summer, and now this hat with its crown that manages to be pointed and dented at the same time. It is made of silk plush like a man’s shooting- hat—this one is in brown—and has a foolish little feather in the band at one side. Another version of this hat is shown again at the bottom of page fifty-eight. Posed by the Baroness de Meyer.

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DECEMBER 1924 Jean Patou, who is as celebrated a sportsman as he ts a couturier, in his high-powered Farman racing car. JEAN PATOU, A MODERN COUTURIER Baron de Meyer Names Jean Patou the Ultimate Young Man in the Maisons de Couture To-day, Exponent of 18 rue Vaneau, Paris. HILE I lived in New York, I came to Paris regularly on short vacations. I’d stay in Paris, or would go to Cannes, or, if it happened to be in summer, I might spend a few days at Deauville. Wherever I went, however, I would come across the same tall, slight, dark man. His personality was arresting and not to be over- looked. At Cannes he would drive a high-powered car, while at the Deauville Casino it was fascinating to watch him take a bank. In Paris I often saw him dining at Ciro’s. I wondered who he could be; in fact, I often found myself looking out for him, for I felt sure he must be a well-known Parisian figure. All this occurred before I definitely left New York, which was in the early part of 1922. Soon after I had settled down in Paris, | dropped in at the Ritz one day for luncheon and, as a matter of course, almost the first person I noticed in the restaurant was my friend, the one I was in the habit of meeting everywhere. Now, at last, I would know who he was, for Olivier would tell me! OLIVIER, THE GREAT LIVIER is a great personage—headwaiter by calling, but, in reality, an accomplished diplomat. He knows at a glance if a new, totally unknown client is worthy of the best table in the Toom, one at the back, or should be met by an icy and curt “full up.” He knows everybody. I there- fore beckoned to him and inquired. “Which one?” he asked. “The dark You don’t mean the ex-King of Portugal?” “Of course not,” I replied. ‘Every one knows him. No, I am asking who the dark man is, the one facing us.” “Why, don’t you know? That’s Jean Patou!’ “Do you mean to say Jean Paton, the couturier?”’ ““Certainement!” he said. How strange! So the man I used to see driving his car, the one at Deauville, and that good-looking young man with the big white carnation, giving dinners at Ciro’s, was Jean Patou! I had heard of him as a tremendous worker, and I knew he was supposed to be an exceptionally able business man but I had never pictured this able business man as being young, handsome, and smart. Not to have met him up to »ow had distinctly been my loss, and I decided to start my career as representative of Harper’s Bazar in Paris by meeting him at once. I would secure his friendship for the magazine. So I promptly called at his establish- ment, sent up my card, and was ushered into his presence. From that time on I became a constant visitor at the rue St. Florentin. So far I had only been familiar with Patou, the man about town; now I became acquainted with Patou, the business man and the worker—and the name of Patou instantly flashed across my mind, when, recently, my editor said to me, ‘““We know so little about the presiding geniuses in the different dressmaking establishments, those mentioned in Harper’s Bazar. Won’t you tell us something about one?” “ ’ the Young Idea and Modern Methods their personalities?’’ His individuality being very marked and his brain exceptionally good, it might be interesting to give an insight into the workings of such a brain, showing how to build up a successful business on distinctly modern lines and in the shortest possible time. One cannot deny Jean Patou a certain amount of genius in the organizing and handling of a large establishment such as his. He is a law unto himself, a born leader. A French expression describes him admirably—‘‘ C'est un as!” A Younc BUSINESS \ HEN I mentioned to Jean Patou my inten- tion of conveying to the readers of Harper’s Bazar some of the things he had told me in the last two or three years, he laughed. What would I find to sav? “‘T am neither an artist, like Mr. Poiret for in- stance, nor is my house an old established firm. Remember, I only started it six short years ago, and though I am naturally pleased with what I have achieved, I have not as yet attained the goal I hope to reach some day. Why not wait a year or two before you write about me?’ “No,” was my answer, “I intend writing now. Later, when you will have reached the pinnacle of which you speak, there will be plenty more to say.” “But is there so much to say about me?” “There is. i shall begin by telling my readers why you started dressmaking, and how the war has

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nsemeuen UZ) LLIZIRt taught you to conduct your business on modern lines. I may have something to say on your views on elegance, but it is about Patou, the man himself, I shall have most to say. Did I ever tell you I used to make notes of things you’d say to me at different times, for I’ve had it in my mind for quite a while to write about you some day? Here, for instance, is what you said one night when we sat together in the dining-car, coming back from Cannes last spring. Listen! You said to me what one rarely hears any one say about himself, namely, ‘I am a lucky man.’ You added, ‘Here are two instances to illustrate my statement. Firstly, had I known when I opened my first dressmaking establishment (I was then twenty-two) what I know now, it would have remained closed forever. Clothes, fashions in general, were a sealed book to me. I knew nothing about them. Especially not in the days of rigid fashion discipline and uniformity of styles distinct from season to season. Had I at that time known my business, I would have been aware that long coats were de rigueur that year, instead of which [ disregarded tradition and in sheer ignorance showed a collection com- posed of short jackets exclusively. American buyers, who had evidently come to patronize a débutant’s efforts, were surprised I should show short coats instead of the universally adopted long ones. They proclaimed me a ‘daring innova- tor,” and I was voted a success. Don’t you call that luck? “* Another instance of my being favored was, that having planned to open my present establishment in the rue St. Florentin on August first, r9r4, I should have been compelled to report at Nancy on July 28th “disguised”’ as a second- lieutenant ready to march, leaving my completed “collection” behind me. Four years later, on seeing it again, I realized my luck, for had I shown it then, it would surely have proved to be a phenomenal failure.’” “Yes,” said Mr. Patou, musingly, “I do vaguely remember having told you something to that effect. What else have you to say about me?” “] shall speak about your views on French fathers.” “What's that? I can’t remember “T had asked you, one day, whether branching out on your own, instead of following in your father’s footsteps, had been a wise move.” “Yes, [ remember, but what on earth did I answer? Tell me, won’t you?” HARPER’S BAZAR Black velvet, printed with the most interesting flowers that ever grew—and some that never grew—makes a Lelong dinner frock. Posed by Miss Grace Moore. A great cluster of roses in several shades of pink, with embroidered foliage, give color to a Beer dinner gown of black jet with drap- erties of fragile black lace.

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for DECEMBER 1924 ig | fe Cvermg | a /1lede rom | | LIM) | and , hx 1H? | Of heavy white silk, black lace flounces, and bows of velvet in ruby red, Lanvin makes a_ rarely charming “robe de style.” Posed by Mrs. V. Cross. Velvet is now made into the smart little rag of a dinner frock that was made of crépe last season. Paquin made this of black velvet for Mrs. Nash. ‘Your answer at the time was, ‘ Had I remained in my father’s leather business ! I should never have got on in life. We Frenchmen are good business men, as good as any others, only we are hampered by tradition. It prevents individual development. Sons are always supposed to enter their father’s business. They start in young, are full of enthusiasm and new ideas, but are not permitted to give expression to any of them, such views being systematically stifled by the father. By the time the son becomes master of the business (sometimes quite late in life) he is as old-fashioned and imbued with the old traditions as his father was before him, and there is no question of his trying to infuse new blood and a more modern spirit into his business. This happens constantly, and old established firms realize too late they are shelved and surpassed by enterprising and more daring younger concerns, working under more up-to-date conditions.’ ”’ Here I remarked, “‘For some reason or other none of this seems to have happened to you, yet I remember your telling me that your father was a great industrie!.”” “Yes,” replied Patou. “My father was in the leather business. The firm is called ‘Grison,’ my mother’s name. It was started by my great-grandfather, continued by my grandfather, and by my own parents. It is one of the most important leather concerns in Europe, and I just missed dealing in leather goods myself. But here again I was lucky, for my father having insisted on a thorough apprenticeship (I was to be no exception to the rule), I had to spend my days in filthy mud, a thing I, of course, hated. ‘He disgusted me with his business, and instead of following in my father’s wake I joined an uncle of mine who dealt in furs. I realized that furriers were at a disadvantage, for customers seemed to prefer buying furs in their usual maisons de couture, finding it more convenient and the styles newer and smarter I therefore considered the fur business on the decline and began to plan an establishment of my own—dressmaking, combined with furs. This first venture, for reasons needless to record, was most unfortunate for my financial backers, but not for me, for it taught me dressmaking. I soon after started again. This time I opened a tailoring business, which I eventually (Continued on page 132)

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HARPER’S BAZAR Lelong costumes a young woman for skiing and the more active sports of St. Moritz in tunic of Russian origin and knickers of white wool and white fox. One of the new Reboux hats with a dented crown of beige plush felt banded by grosgrain ribbon has tiny wings at the back. Worn by the Baroness de Meyer.

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for DECEMBER 1924 Chéruit (Madame Wormser) designs ef remarkably soft gold tissue and great bands of sable, a wrap to match the black and gold of any brilliant Paris night. It is one of those delightful wraps of am- biguous line that may be caught closely to the figure and held there without hook or eye or button. The sort of wrap the Paristenne knows everything about wearing. Worn by Mlic. Maude Lety.

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“*T have a_ position with no one to share it, ; said Sir Spencer Bab ington; ‘a great house with noone toadornit.’” Beginning HARPER’S } {ZAR THERE GREAT ii PANDOLFO WILLIAM J. By LOCKE Illustrated by Henry Raleigh Dazz ling and Smart AULA FIELD was a woman who suffered most people gladly. Such is a gift, like that of song or painting or the solving of acrostics. Consequently she had many more friends, all over the world, who loved her than it was in human power for her to love in return. Now and then the jealous turned scorpion-wise and stung her. They called her insincere, which is the penalty of large-hearted- ness. Not that she ever promised more than she could perform; but the small-minded read into her sympathy more than she could think of promising. She was also a woman of peculiar personal attrac- tion. Sir Spencer Babington, one of the coming men in post-war diplomacy, and a noted weigher of dry words, remarked that, a century or so ago, she would have been a reigning toast. All kinds of men had fallen in love with her during her nearly thirty years of life. once Only one had she selected and that was a soldier man, Geoffrey Field, whose bones now lay in a prim little cemetery by the He was a gallant fellow; she had given him her heart; and to all suitors she would say in effect: Somme. People Places “What is the good of a woman without the least bit of a heart left to give?”” Some sighed and went away. Others gave her to understand that heart was not everything that they were looking for; and, as she had no fortune, in fact was hard put to it to make ends meet, she found herself in the position of the Lady in “‘Comus,” and like her, dismissed the rabble-rout, but in terms less direct and more graciously ironical. To neither camp did Spencer Babington belong. As maid, she had suffered his adust wooing; as wife, she had proved him a loyal friend; to her, as widow, he remained a faithful swain; and smiling endurance of boredom in his company her only means of sincere gratitude. was expressing a HEY were in her little flat in Basil Mansions, under the lee of Harrod’s stores. It was a sun- less, airless day in July, the kind of day in which she, big creature bred in open spaces, felt herself at her worst. Spencer Babington had come in casually for tea, and, uninfluenced by meteorological conditions, had asked her to marry him, just as though they had been wandering in scented hay fields, or sitting before the open mystery of the moonlit sea. Paula was conscious of dampness; 0! a wisp of hair sticking to her forehead. It takes a wise man to appreciate the folly of making love to a damp woman—especially when the love-making is uphill work. In the ways of women Sir Spencer Babington was not Gently repulsed, he pressed his suit. At last she said wearily. ‘““My dear Spencer, you would be a much pleas- anter creature if you would take no for an answer. “This, then, is final?” = “The finalest thing you can possibly imagine. He rose and stood before her, tall, lean, dis- tinguished; clean shaven, grave, just a bit bald; fingering a tortoise-shell-rimmed eye-glass_ that dangled from his neck by a broad silk ribbon. Although he was precisely dressed—for everything about Spencer Babington was precise—this eye glass was the only sign of foppery about him. No wise.

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for J ECEMBER 1924 man had ever seen him fix it in his eye. A vivacious lady had once said that he must use it exclusively in his bath to examine his conscience. “Jsn’t that rather cruel, Paula?” he asked. She replied that she was open to an explanation. “It’s a pity,” said he, “that two old and tried friends like us can’t unite our lives together. I have a position W ith no one to share it; a great house with no one to adorn it; thoughts, tastes, ambitions with whom they can react. A very solitary no one 0 life, I assure you.’ HE replied, a trifle irritably—he was so dry and she so damp: “In your forty years, you could surely have picked up a hundred female reagents in any quarter of the globe.” “Tt pleases you to—wilfully—misunderstand me.” He split the infinitive with an air of deliberate sacrifice. Paula laughed—and when she laughed, she was adorable in most eyes. ‘‘No, my dear, I don’t misunderstand you. I’ve known you ever since I wasa child. I’m awfully fond of you. You're the only real man friend I have in the world.” “Then,” said he, “why on earth—?” “That's it,” she interrupted. ‘‘Why on earth do you want to convert a valued friend into an incon- siderable husband?” “T object to the term,” said he, drawing himself People like you and me can’t quarrel,’ said Pandolfo. up stiffly. “After all, I’m a man of some con- sideration.” She saw that he was hurt. But he always had been hurt when she ref sed to marry him. And her heart was always pricked with remorse for hurt inflicted. She rose and, as tall as he, a slim and very stately woman, laid her hands on his shoulders. “T have a hundred good reasons for not wanting to marry you, but a thousand for not wanting to spoil precious lifelong relations.” Could woman let down man more graciously? But he went on arguing. “Our points of view are different. It’s only a matter of reconciling them; of bringing our spiritual vision, as it were, into a common focus. I can’t conceive the possibility of those relations being spoiled. Quite the contrary. You twitted me just now about remaining a bachelor. I should have thought that, perhaps, in a woman’s eyes, fastidious- ness might be a merit. I couldn't pick up other women by the hundred, for the simple reason that you happened to exist. That you knew in the years gone by. I had hopes. But the gods—and your self—thought otherwise.”” He turned away, not without feeling and dignity. She followed him and said softly: How can | help it if the gods—and I—are still of the same opinion?” 61 He swung back. ‘Then you've made up your mind never to marry again?” She nodded. “I'll never marry again.” ““That’s one grain of comfort,” said he AULA FIELD was waiting, lightly cloaked in her drawing-room, fora summoned taxi to be announced, when the telephone bell rang. A servant’s voice. Mrs. Field? Lady Demeter wished to speak to her. Would she hold the line? Then: “Ts that you, Paula dear? It’s Clara speaking. Can you come down to-morrow for the week-end?” Paula laughed. ‘‘What’s the matter?” “This eleventh hour invitation? Do be an angel and come and [’ll tell you all about it.”’ ** Anybody dead or bolted?” “No, no. An unexpected odd man. And he'll be entirely out of the picture. You'll come, won't you? . “Yes. But I must come down late. Do I know the man? What’s his name?” “Pandolfo. Sir Victor Pandolfo.” “Never heard of him,” said Paula. T WAS Lady Demeter’s amiable foible to turn her West Hertfordshire house once a week into a den of lions. They arrived, sprucely maned and elegantly tailed, in time for tea on Saturday, and they were courteously (Continucd on page 114) o ‘It’s a psychological impossibility.’ ”

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HARPER’S BAZAR i Very new and very charming is this foreign corner, with its quaint peasant armchair, whose cushions are of a quilted Brittany petticoat in gay colors, $95, and Louis XV. round mahogany stand with marble top and metal gallery, $25. On the stand is a yellow glass vase, $7.50. cA G OLY) Of Cy Ls lite from aris The flowers look like gay poppies, but in truth are painted clam shells in bright colors, $1 and $1.50 each. The sma!l top book is a standard novel covered with Italian hand-blocked paper, $5, and the lower one is an in- dexed envelop file with antique prints on ils cover, $15.

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DECEMBER 1924 Let us do your Christmas shopping early Directions are on page 146. Describ urg how 4 “Compt OU can no more escape Christmas than you can escape to-morrow. Go where you will, to the hospital in a bed or to sea in a boat, and you will still be submerged in Christmas. What is to be done about it? There is no use trying to build up a defense of cowardly platitudes of other ‘Christmas is only for children,” and all that non- sense. Christmas is not only for children. It is a joyous festi- val that has come to pass of its own beautiful spirit, and as you can not escape it, you may as well stop saying, “I dread Christ- mas,” and make up your mind that you adore it, and plunge into your address book and make lists of all the people you would like to make happy if you were magically able, and then make more lists of what you would like to do to make these not only happy, but very happy, and then see how nearly you can come to doing it. The making of Christmas lists is one of the most fascinating things in the world. I’ve often thought a perfect plan for making a will would be to make a Christmas list of all my best friends and a parallel list of all my best belongings, and then pair them off, friends and precious things. What a sensible disposal of one’s possessions that would be, and what an orgy of giving! I can not for the life of me understand why there should be any unfit Christmas presents. It seems to me that any one with people Paul Outerbridge, Jr. From London comes a reproduction of a Waterford glass vase, eight inches high, $35. ADVENTURES IN GIVING _ of inl huts Citivas dest a glimmer of intelligence could easily plan a dozen gifts for each and every friend that would give real delight. Certainly I have no such excuses. I know things that would be welcome to every friend I have, because I am enough interested in them the friends—to know their tastes and their distastes as well. One woman I know has a card index of all the Christmas presents she has made for years—and her list runs into the hundreds and hundreds. She has more fun giving than any one I know. She never sends a gift that doesn’t carry a thrill with it. She isn’t so strong on receiving gifts—she has her fun in the giving. It is interesting to see that while her gifts are all carefully planned, the more expensive ones go to the friends who have the least money. She will spend hours to find a bit of Chelsea porcelain for some friend who has a collection, and then send a set of furs to her secretary, which is as it should be. She will give her little daughter a necklace of real pearls, and select a string of the best imitation pearls possible for her daughter’s governess. To her women friends who “have everything” she will send inexpensive flower vases, or quart jars of potpourri, or small lacquered boxes, or the latest Paris lipstick just as casually as she will send the same women Georgian silver trays, or Waterford glass girandoles, or old Venetian mirrors. For the friends who obviously have not (Concluded on page 112)

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64 HARPER’S BiZar je NEW HOUSE GIFTS of Virple and C Lnlique Design Every smart lady wants among her furnishings a small slipper chair. The one at the right is a French peasant reproduction in red, $47. The mirror above is in maple or mahogany, 20” wide by 42" high, $50. Both express extra. The small French peasant table at the right is of heechwood with a wooden top and tray of rushing, $25. Express extra. The charming copy of a Colonial glass lamp, $15, with a plaited glaze! chints shade, $10. The mules are of gilt kid, $14 The smallest of all French tables is one of beech- wood with top and low shelf of dark gray marble. Perfect to hold a cup of tea. The table is 9'2 wide, 16" longand 1412" high, $60. Express extra. The glasses with cock design are $30 a dozen, Directions for ordering are on page 146 ES Bi i — = Paul Outerbridge, Jr.

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J or DECEMBER 1924 (Above) White crépe de Chine muffler for evening with gray, yellow, or blue bands, $27.50. Black and gray Fair Isle pat- terned crochet silk muffler, $20. (Below) Antique chair from H. Douglas Curry & Co. Sterling silver putter, $40. Black Moroc- co leather dressing-case with plain sterling silver fillings, $155. Photographs by Paul Outerbridge, Jr. (Above) Black and white checked silk handkerchiefs, $4. Colored ones with white polka dots, $3.50. Silk suspenders in assorted stripes or plain colors, $7.50. (Below) Narrow striped lie in blue and gray or red, $3.50. Herringbone pattern in colors, $4. Prince of Wales tics in gay geometrical patterns, $4 each. Blond tortoise-shell cigaret case, $45. Black glass ash tray $3.50. Thuvya- Algeria cigaret box, ivory inlay, $15. Directions for ordering are on page 146 MAN TO MAN CHRISTMAS

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66 HARPER’S |, 1ZAR GIFTS FOR THE SPORTSMANS CHRIST Above is a Pullman bag with unusual compartment fitted with toilet accessories and space for flask. The flask is extra, $4. ; In russet cowhide, 18 inch, $78, 20 inch, $So. Express extra. Photographs by Paul Outerbridge, Jr. on ‘ ‘ —_ ab ren , Old English print from Kennedy & Co. Malacca riding crop, $17.50. Hunting flask, $138.50 and silver plated sandwich i> e a] box 27.50, in leather cases. Non-corrosive s urs, $5.50. , 4*DY) eh In ordering see page 146

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\S AC CESSORIES FOR THE HARD-TO-PLEASE - | Black and white enamel set. on gold: very thin watch, $350; cylinder link chain of onyx, pearls and platinum, $315; package- size cigaret case, $250; knife, $45. Black ribbed silk dress tie, $2. Queen Anne walnut dressing glass from H. Douglas Curry & Co. Photographs by Paul Outerbridge, Jr. Directions for ordering are on page 140 ——— t i i | | j Ss For the fastidious golf addict this unusual sterling silver Successful small cigaret lighter in gold plate, $12. Tan Pinehurst golf scorer in a pigskin case is indispensable, $10. pigskin or brown morocco case for package of cigarets, $3.

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(Above) The constructive boy will delight in this Dolphin power boat. The hull comes ready to build for $8.75, and the hull, engine, and boiler, $53. express collect. OM JOLLY G —_ — , Jor ( Lelive ¢ Moy long panel) The *reu hr pe di voles are wheels which one al hes to the foot and knee and ke skates, $25 a pair Verv convenient and useful is strong hunting stick with collapsible leather seat at one end and non-slip base, for p Ho matches, races, elec. P22 Very smart and very SS (lL pper right) Great fun is in store for the boys who have either these ski skates of flat slecl or snow skates of polished wood, $2.50 a pair. The nickel-plated box is a first aid outfit for campers, fitted with many essential remedies, $5. The trass elephant trunk is a wall necktie rack, $2.50. ss Sa, > useful is this im ported Scotch cashmere muffler in small checks in a variety of color combinations, $4. And the hand-sewed English What lad wouldn't be pleased with plain 14-k. gold cuff links with a fine dark blue enamel rim and inittals? Links $17. Initials $1oextra, sk Lig, these ct veered call shoes are indispensable wth boys and girls. They I] oiled so as lo make aler prool, $10 a pair An imported Scotch sweater with socks te match would make avery attractive gift. In blocked pattern of various color combinations; set, $5o. buckskin vlove c. 2. The game of Paddle Tennis ts a miniature tennis set. It is played indoors on the floor, like out-door lennis, with soft halls and paddles, $7.50 a set. This musical clothes brush will vive some lad great de- light, $15. Fine pig-skin bill fold with 14-k. gold mount- ings around the edges, $35. Lower right) A small (3% inch) 14-k. gold fountain pen and pencil with black cnamel trimmings, $75. In silver without enamel $14 a set. HARPER’

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jor DECEMBER 1924 Yo i =." ee V1 7 7! -7 A one! j Se nt If L = ( aii “A Midli SMARTEST NEW [DEAS : for the SPHeasure oS the Nibh-debutante Black and white silk choker scarf, very smart with a tailored costume, $7.95. A cretonne parasol, which will be very useful at Palm Beach, lined in a variety of colors, $15. Heavy jumbo sweater, $22.50, gay patterned sleeveless slip-on sweater, $20, socks, $8, skull cap, $7.50, flannel knickers, $15, gloves, $3.50. Two French linen handker- chicfs. One comes in colors. The other in white with hand hemstitching and real lace border. They are $1.25 cach. Decorative orange, red, black, or white lacquered gardenia, $1.25 each. Novel black moire silk vanity, $8.75. Marcassite initial, $5 extra. Pair of english — stitched chamois gauntlet gloves, $3.50. Imported black suvde flat purse, bound in red leather, like a book, $19.75. Very new and decorative ts the liny watch to be wern on a neck chain or ribbon, in colored enamel and black, $37.50. Comb and mirror, $2.05. AL new 25-1nch stubby im- ported English umbrella in heavy quality red, blue, brown, purple, green, and black silk with buckhorn handle, $12.75. White or white with pink, blue, green, or mauve imita- lion pearl set. Choker, $5, bracelet, $3, ring, $3. earrings, $4. Shoulder pin, $12.50 Lo very charming black and red cnameled vanitv-case with three compartments, one for powde r and puff, Ont for lipstick, and perfume, $20. This new imported French evening bag of cut crystals is very brilliant and effective, $10.75. Two-stick willow ostrich plume fan in two lovely shades of coral or jade, $12.50.

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CY ler all CHRISTMAS At the top left is a smart limousine, European in design, which operates by winding, $4.75. The 24-inch doll comes completely dressed in pink or blue, $12.50. She is sitting on a real antique rush-bottom chair, $18, express collect, and is using a Krew dial tele- phone, $1.50. The saxophone with instruction sheet for playing is $6.25. The white woolly dog is $4.75 and the duck for baby’s bath is $1.35. “The Red Cross Knight” is a book of stories from Spenser’s Faerie Queene, $2.60. “The Booky Blox,” top right, are wooden books’ and blocks combined, with Mother Goose rhymes, $5.50. The “ Bing Bang” cannon on top of the blocks is harmless, but makes a loud boom, $4. The kid ball comes in ved and white, $.85. The miniature road roller runs by steam, $10.50. The comical head is “‘ Archie,” whose eyes are illuminated by pulling a cord, with a shower of harmless sparks, HARPER’S $1.25. The racing motor boat will run fifteen minutes on one winding, $10. Felix, the cat, is made with movable joints and can assume the most amusing attitudes, $1.25. The gaily painted stool is $4, express collect. The jockey ‘“‘ Poney Tinker,” riding over the ‘A’phie’ blocks, is $1.50. The Alphies, a set of wooden doll and anima pictures with al- phabet letters, can be used as a nine- pin game, $2.65. oii Paul Outerbridge, J1 IS FOR CHILDREN (ZAR

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for DECEMBER 1924 Paul Outerbridge, Jr WHEN SANTA_OPENS HIS PACK ay es 2 cus comes to~c/ Kate Vineet in Soy py an Any child would delight in this miniature street scene. The circus tent and six characters is $10.95. The ‘‘ Buddy-L” oil truck from which the driver has evidently departed for the circus, $8.50. We shall be glad to order any of these toys for you. See page 140 The skyscraper is made from a “ Bilt-E-Z”’ construction set. This set is composed of small tin squares which when fitted together hold fast, so that the whole building may be moved about, $10. (Below right) Big brother is taking moving pictures of the holiday procession. His new Pathe baby motion picture camera comes in a eather carrying case for 5. The rojector achine is 37.50. leath ying for $4. The projector machine is $37.: For the small boy or girl from five to ten, The sport model Packard roadster has real The English doll pram, very smart for this new scooter bike is a jor one can Springs, $40. The Dandy Dobbin horse is the little girl’s dolly, comes in gray, navy, ride it on the sidewalk, $18. xpress extra. loads of fun, $17.50. Both, express extra. claret or brown, $35. Express collect.

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HARPER’S B [ZAR It is a long route from the blossoming flower to the atom- izer, but the posy’s delicacy is still lingering in these enchanting flacons. (Above, left to right) Condé’s “‘ Nar- cissus”’ toilet water, a deli- cate fragrance; Rigaud’s “ Riva lmuta,” of refreshing odor. (Below, left to right) Fracy’s “Charmeuse” extract has a unigue fragrance; Helena Ru- hinstein’s “‘Emailline,” a stim- ulating and bracing massage cream for every type of skin; Piver’s “Asurea” extract, a bouquet odor of rose and jasmin petals combined. pre ee (Above) Babani’s “Giardini” with an atomizer tree stopper and “Chypre Egyptienne”’ extract in gilded glass container. Guerlain’s “La Poudre C’Est Moi.” jois’ - Paul Outerbridge, Jr, (Right to left) Roger and Gallet’s “Le Jade” toilet water in crackled glass con- tainer; Gabilla’s “Fleur du Jour,” a luxurious perfume; Luyna’s “Chanson d’Eté,” an alluring extract; “Le Triomphe” de Gueldy, and Ary’s “Un Jardin La Nuit.” (Below, right to left) Bour- ** Parfum Mandarine,” a lasting heavy bouquet odor; a box of “Saint Ange” face powder; Coty’s “ L’Origan,” a favorite of many, and Cor- day’s “Kai Sang,” an Ori- ental extract in a charming lacquered Chinese container. SESSA IB

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for DECEMBER 1924 Paul Outerbrid - “Ht hat ise Wew, Old, Shy, or Dold in MWVIDUAL PEREUMES As flowers brighten a room, so a well-chosen perfume eg Is charm toa woman. (Above) Veolay’s “ Les Silvies’’ extract, Caron’s ‘* Nuit de Noél” in a black crystal bottle and green box, Dorothy Gray’s “ Little Lady,” crn House double compact of powder and rouge, and Lentheric’s “Creme Citiane,” a beautifying cream. (Left) Fioret’s extract, Atkinson’s “Insouciance,” Marie Earle’s delightful Jasmin soap. ” “ Jouir

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ZAR HARPER’S B CHRISTMAS Eve QUEEN OF THE EAST \ \ \ SHEBA’S VEIL

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for DECEMBER 1924 EMPRESS OF IND Wete flatirted on a the Cat 2 A, Gwe deanna tact wn oz Wee ; a himomecl 2 di (Aetilac bic ant Tipe of Dag tileet chacnwotk clashed with a SAMARKAND PEEP OF DAY opm igond teas a not foe Lee otdhsitia. tman OL IT A afipee-

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“ Her bitter look brought Crossthwaite’s profe sstonal sense A ROSSTHWAITE stepped from his car before the Butlers’ door at about six-thirty. He had been given Butler’s telephone message on coming in from his rounds rather late that after- noon, and though there seemed no special urgency in the message he had his reasons for answering it as soon as he had drunk a cup of tea. The house as usual looked the acme of luxurious quiet, with a touch about it of choice simplicity. There was a large black bowl of red roses, and a good fire in the lounge hall, and the winter portiéres of thick and rich blue had been hung. Crossthwaite noted these details attentively, as worth his consideration. Then, just as he had laid down hat and gloves on a table beside the bowl of roses, he heard slow, light feet on the staircase, and looking upward he saw Mrs. Butler in black velvet. In Crossthwaite’s mind were the discreet words of his very confidential servant. “Mr. Butler seemed reluctant to leave a message on hearing you were out, sir; but I told him it would be all right: so he said would you kindly go round as soon as possible, ostensibly to see him; but really to see Mrs. Butler.” Now here she was, obviously going out, in a low gown, with a fur coat slung over her arm. Crossthwaite forward, with his indulgent, complimenting; but moved smile, quizzing, never Sto ry fe cine mmm seme + 4 WHY Where the Was Two to May One By EDGINTON giving him away. His sharp veiled observation noted that she gave the same care to her person as to her house. Her pale face was exquisitely powdered; her lips a little reddened; her fair hair dressed with an eye to the most youthful Jigne and the greatest provoc ation. very white. “M* DEAR lady, good evening. 1 your husband?” “Well, I think,” she murmured, extending a hand. “My man,” said Crossthwaite, “gave me a sort of vague message from him; you know how stupid even the best servants are. And I thought it might be more of his headaches, you know—very trying to a busy man; very trying, indeed. So, passing, I dropped in.” ‘I didn’t know he'd had a headache for years.” Her long bare arms were And how’s “So much the better.” Crossthwaite replied urbanely. ‘And how are you?” “ou.” “By jove,” said Crossthwaite. ‘“ You look it! You're going out?” “T’ve got a craze to dance.” ** Splendid “You’ve seen Fred?” ‘I’ve only just come.” Suddenly into the amiable levels there broke a to the alert.’ Hazard HARPER’S BAZAR passionate sound from up-stairs; the rebellious voice of a young child, a rush of feet, the slam of a door, the scolding expostulations of the nurse. Then, before Crossthwaite’s indulgent smile had twinkled upon Mrs. Butler’s face, to find it quiet and fierce, a door opened into the hall; Butler came out swiftly, nodded to the doctor, and ran up- stairs. Crossthwaite felt a quick Then a door above opened, Butler’s voice mingled with another. A child screamed, and sobbed. Crossthwaite turned to soothe the woman beside him; yet she had not moved or spoken. She put a foot upon the curb to warm, holding to the mantelpiece with a tightly gripped hand. Her long white arm was rigid. She smiled politely at Crossthwaite. uneasiness. The words he had felt impelled to utter died behind his lips. Butler came down. Crossthwaite looked at him Mrs. Butler stood warming her foot. “Hello, Butler!” said Crossthwaite, quickly. “How are you? I'd better run over you, perhaps? In your study?” “Ves, please tid Butler. Crossthwaite moved away toward the door trom which Butler had emerged a minute before.

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DECEMBER 1924 fo *“T only want you,’ said Savill. Butler held back a moment as if to restrain his wife. Yet still she had not moved. “You’re not going up-stairs!”’ he said, warningly. She smiled. “I? No. I've a letter to write before I go out.” Butler hesitated, Crossthwaite; but who entered the and door behind them. And before he quite closed it he took a swift glance out, and saw the woman by the fire galvanized into life; he saw her run silently toward the stairs. followed doctor who closed the then was the looked at her, somehow it room last, UTLER had walked straight to the hearth and taken up_ his there; Crossthwaite followed. “Well?” “Well?” “You saw her and talked to her for a few minutes? I meant to have left you together longer; only—”’ ‘You had to deal with that boy of yours?”’ “Yes,” said Butler. “Well, what do you think? Do you see anything wrong with her?” “What is Butler?” said Crossthwaite bluntly. “She hates me, I believe.” “That’s more your matter than mine.” pe sition said Butler. wrong, ‘I wish you'd say you only want me.’” “T don’t know that it is. there are generally medical grounds for it, in my opinion.” “Ts she very unhappy, Butler?” “Unhappy! Why should she be?”’ “Differences over the children, perhaps—” “Oh, there are always those!” “Pity,” said Crossthwaite. *“\ man’s the judge for his children.” ‘You'll never get a woman to think so.”’ “T’ve never before known a woman ** Any pitched battles?” said Crossthwaite “Once, [ remember. But I put my foot down. You've got to, Crossthwaite.” “No doubt.” “She goes out and enjoys herself a lot.” “‘T know she goes out.”’ “Inferring she doesn't enjoy herself?” “Butler,” said Crossthwaite, “you seem to have And what I feel just now is that your wife is so unhappy, so intolerably wretched, that something is bound to sent for me to tell you what I think. happen.”’ “Something? But what?” **How do I know?” **She’s well. She buys clothes.” When a normal sane woman starts all these moods for no apparent reason, I clways “And her house is as charming as ever. look for signs there of trouble in women patients.” “Well, then?” “T can’t write you a prescription, Butler. only say I'd humor her if I were you.” I can ‘to you think of anything she hasn't got?” 4 “My dear Butler, you know all these things better than I.” “There’s nothing to say then?” “Nothing. Tell me, how’s the family? boy going to school?” “Yes. He’s nearly eight. Ann’s.” Your Sending him to St. “Long way off, eh?”’ “Well, it’s That’s why I chose it.” “Ah, yes. And the little girl?” ““She’s very well. We're getting her a governess instead of the nurse as soon as Alec’s gone. You turn out much better kids, if you discipline ‘em young.” Crossthwaite turned away slowly. “Well, seeing there’s nothing I can say, Butler, I'll be going.” “Good of you to look in so quickly.” Crossthwaite was first at the (Continued on page 102) where my prother sends his boys. French

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Sey MRS THREE DEBUTANTES OF THE NEW YORK SEASON Miss Florence Havemeyer, who was officially presented at a ball given by Mr. and Mrs. Henry O. Havemeyer at Newport, will be the honored guest at many of the season's entertainments. A daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William H. Erhart of New York and Cedarhurst, Long Island, Miss Henriette Erhart made her formal bow at a brilliant ball that was given on Thanksgiving night. J F. E. Geisler HARPER’S BAZAR 4 Gallo Studio Miss Elisabeth W. Bull, who will figure conspicuously in the débutante sets, is a daughter of Mrs. William Lanman Bull and a niece of Henry Worthington Bull and Frederic W. Bull.

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for DECEMBER 1924 REBOUX Lhis turban is nothing but an inimitably clever and subtle twist of wide beige grosgrain ribbon. On the opposite side it is narrowly plaited, and falls low on the ear; from Rolle. THE THEORY .OF ELIMINATION IN DRESS A Portfolio of Seven Pages Devoted to the Principle That the More One Takes off, Within Reason, the Smarter One Will Be By Martie Lyons IVER has the theory of elimination in dress been carried so far as to-day. There is positively nothing else to eliminate, and after the designers have exercised their ingenuity to the full within these narrow limitations, there will be no chance for change except in a tremendous reaction. A revival of the elaborate, the rich and intricate fashions of the Louis XV. period would not be a surprising outcome of the present severe styles. The most favored designer to-day is the one who will give us the most freedom, the most chance for activity. It is safe to say that never again will there be an eighteen-inch waist-line. a boned collar, a trailing skirt. We still do suffer the restrictions of a tight skirt and a tight sleeve, but the handicaps once discarded will not be permitted to return. Elimination begins at the foundation. The indisputably chic woman will not permit herself a corset. It is safe to say that she never had an extra ounce of flesh, but if she did. for a week or two before she became sharply aware of it, she eliminated it at once. As the indisputably chic woman has a perfect figure, of exactly the right weight, she has no need of a corset nor of a brassiere. She wears three garments only—a shirt, drawers, and a dress. Anything else is superfluous. The two matching undergarments (French, of course) are of triple voile or flat crépe, usually of a vivid pink, rose, coral, or in white, mauve, or flesh. There is just a little hand-embroidery of the simplest style. or appliqué in floral design of the silk itself, or a bit of net insertion. Whatever it is, it must have a very plain, tailored appearance. Naturally, there are still clothes which are elaborate (to our present way of thinking) and yet of extraordinary chic. There are beaded and embroidered frocks, lace and brocade frocks, dresses and wraps trimmed with feathers, jewels, or fur. but even these have an air of simplicity due to the simple lines, the lack of fril's, the flatness of the treatment, and they do not destroy the principle of severity in the great majority of clothes. The typical frock of to-day depends almost entirely on line for its interest and variety. It is frequently of one color throughout, of one fabric, and trimmingless. even to a button. The idea is this: That one is chic in direct proportion to what one eliminates; in other words, the less one employs to achieve the effect, the smarter one is. If a glove is smart with a perforated cuff, it is ten times smarter without it. Ifa curly

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HARPER’S BAZAR Zi SS a aicceeeemeentae nnnanaiaeensneesten serene SO i | se PATOU CHE UNTRIMOMED DRESS THE ULTIMATE OF ELIMINATION coilfure is smart. one minus the curl is infinite: smarter That is the principle on which the chic Parisienne operates to-day She aims to reduce herself to an exclamation point of chic—sheer direct, amazing There are. as we have said. many trimmed dre s, but in comparison with all other trimmed lresses that have ever ¢ simple. In addition, there isted, these are amazing] are immense numbers of totally untrimmed dresses, dresses with but a single trimming—a flower or a jewel—and self-trimmed dresses. Examples of all these are shown in this ection; above on this page the untrimmed dresses; on pages eighty-four and_ eighty-five VIONNET An absorbing interest in line is the result of the designers’ abandon- ment of trimming, color schemes, and mingling of fabrics. Often a pleasing intricacy of cut, as in this beige crépe dress, is evolved. 5 s One color. one fabric $ the aim of the untrimmed dress. Vronnet nol even a button lo relieve its monotony, this is achieves it with great success in this green crépe model which depends on its line for chic. the dresses with a single trimming, and on page eighty-one a self-trimmed dress. It is astonish- ing how, with so little means, so much variety can be achieved; how with so little difference, there can be so much distinction in each. On pages eighty-two and eighty-three we have the sharp contrast woman who is rather smart—is headed in the right direction, but hasn’t yet carried the principle of elimination to its logical conclusion, perhaps because she hasn’t between the the courage of her convictions—and the woman who is amazingly chic. The former is the woman whom you will hear saying, ‘‘ Those severe things may be I’m the fluffy very smart, but I can’t wear them. type. I need soft, feminine things. I'd look a fright with straight hair’’; or, ‘Well, anyway, I'd rather look pretty than smart. Frenchwomen, whatever you may say of them, aren't pretty ; or, “ That’s a very hard and masculine styl I'd rather have things becoming.” Perhaps she’s right. If so, so much the worse for her a great many things, but she will never attain that ultimate point of chic that is the ideal of the smart- Perhaps she has bad points that must She may achieve est women. be concealed; perhaps she is a type that does not lend itself to the present reigning type; perhaps she has a personality and a personal sense of dre hat can defy the mode and (Concluded on page 112)

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.) y for DECEMBER 1924 How so much chic and beauty can be embodied in so simple a thing as this bright mustard- colored kasha dress, only Lanvin knows. It has two or three little pockets and two or three little buttons and for its chief charm a broad band of the kasha rolled and sewed in narrow strips with infinite pains and woven into a simple pattern. The hat is a white felt Rose Descat of inimitably simple shape; from Rolle. Models on both pages from HATTIE CARNEGIE : Se ae = es LANVIN THE SELF-TRIMMED DRESS IS ONE OF THE TRIUMPHS OF ELIMINATION

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Between RATHER SMART AMAZING CHIC the ornate love on one hand and pont tn the plain beige love gx > vith matchin litch- » Wil on the Hie an infallible laste certainly © could nol hesila _ " ' f 2 wen i ; ae LIS»: \ 4 z \ | a J aN Here is the lady completely arrayed in the acces- sories shown on this page She is well dressed, but she does not achieve the chic of the lady dressed in the faultless selections shown opposite. LADIES ARE BUT THEY HAVE NOT OPPOSITE This is a good shingle but a little trite and unnecessarily curly, Eliminate the curl and one can achieve the much better shingle that is shown just opposite. This is a good hat but it is trimmed, and the best hats to-day are untrimmed. The drapery is unnecessary and what is unneces- sary must be sacrificed. I pretty coiffure for evening, but it is better to be distinguished than pretty and the sleek head opposite will certainly please the discriminat ing infinitely more. The complete eliminator does not stop at the fleshless as she should be, she has no need « certainly not of petticoats. HARPER’ If she is as corsets and brass**res, A shirt, a pair of drawers—voili tout! These are of coral triple voile with net and shadow embroidery.

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"AR

DECEMBER 1924 j or

The shingle reduced to its lowest and smartest

terms—without — intri cacy and without curl. It displays the naiveté of the super-sophisti- cated woman of fashion.

To-day the hat is en- tirely a matter of line

and that line must be supreme. Rose Descal obtains a new and ¢ subtle effect. in this £ \ brox n felt model; Rolle.

Lhe more SeEvENE the coiffure one can bear, the greater one’s chic. If one is not that tvpe, one ts oul of the run- ning for the present. Greal severity prevails,

THE PROCESS ELIMINATION PRODUCES THESE SUCH ULTIMATE CHIC LADIES REPRESENT

Ff 4 £7 jf Soe — ean RS! Even in stockings it's a matter of elimination, 1 clock is good but no clock is a little better. Even for evening faint shades of beige are best—pre ferable to Ne sh shades. They look far etter with the bronze and honey-colored slippers.

y Q es } 4 ys oll | vood = Shot right) and a better shoe (left). Several straps are not bad but one strap is better. The only thing

as good is no slrap al ali—-justa plain pump. a “<

_ caeonined o™ alti i da ala

Here is the supreme product of elimination hat and dress utterly untrimmed, gloves without cuffs, stoc) ings without clocks, shoes with only one broad strap, and nothing beneath this perfection but two garments.

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84 HARPER’S |

1ZAR * pee] a ES “5 it 3 S —_ << / - | \ @ ; ts, \ ae + \ & \ ; ; é \ } j [ } 4 in ; \ * F P s : f f i v ¢ | ~ Pa “ ks Ved | | VIONNET CHANEL The theory of elimination has been carried far when a dress WHEN DRESSES ARE has but a single trimming and all the rest is line, line, line. The dress of Greek line is of a bright olive green flat crépe with a spiral line of applied embroidery in gold cloth and gold thread. REDUCED TO A MATTER OF LINE MUST LINE, THAT BE SUPREME Chanel has here developed her favorite theme—a fluttering sim- plicity—in wine-colored crépe. panels giving an irregular hem-line and the bodice a swinging cape. Wine-colored carnations are placed at shoulde, and hip. As usual the skirt has several

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DECEMBER 1924 for Models on both pages from HATTIE CARNEGIE It is another theory of these dresses of ultimate simplicity that they shall be all of one color. This model, whose drapery is its . reap TY x whole beauty, is of moss green chiffon velvet. There is a huge D R E 55 1 S T O ILLU ST R ATE THE PRINCIPLE OF The shaded frock, a feature of the season, has its variation of BUT A SINGLE TRIMMI NG color for its sole trimming. This model, in beige-to-brown crépe, embodies all of the principles of present-day chic in tis simple lines. The sleeves as well as the skirt are softly shaded. rose with a long, thorny stem on one shoulder for trimming.

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Rebou is now having tre- mendous success with this hat made on the lines of a man’s shooting-hat with cather cocarde at one side. A wide band of grosgrain ribbon forms a bandeau about this Rebouv hat; then there is a towering head-dress of draped , . blac elvet, smart and new, One of those remarkable Little hats Reboux makes of a se rap of velvet and a large amount of genius. Black velvet with gardenias across the a ee - HARPER’S BAZAR HATS YOU WOULD BUY IF YOU WERE IN PARIS TO-DAY ; j } ' | Another version of the shool- ing-hat Reboux makes in black plush, with the high crown dented and banded with ermine to match the scarf. Models on both pages imported by HENRI BENDEI

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1924 for DECEMBER . If so CR Sn = OE MED, Mig LADY DIANA MANNERS POSES FOR HER PORTRAIT IN REBOUX’S NEWEST HATS The blonde loveliness of Lady Diana Manners, framed by a continental tricorne, hecomes piquant and almost boyish. Lady Manners chose this hat for her own wear for autumn days. Reboux made it of black felt with a chevron of blue and rose felt and an edge of blue and rose felt. Lady Manners has recently returned to this country to resume the réle of the Madonna in * The Miracle.”

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88 ** Stupid!’ exclaimed Claire. THE By E. LAIRE came down the long cypress avenue, at the end of which was the queer little building, half farmhouse, half villa, in which Cardinge, having brought his negotiations to a successful issue, had taken up his residence. She was bareheaded and dressed for the evening in a gown of some filmy white material. Once or twice she stopped to pluck some of the colored orchises growing in the long grass of the orchard, and though the turf was dry she had to pick her way to avoid soiling her satin shoes. Cardinge came to meet her silently. “Why do you look at me as though I were a vision?”’ she laughed, as he almost reached her without any sign of recognition. “You reminded me of ‘Maud,’” he answered. “T was thinking of the days when I was very young.” “Stupid!” she exclaimed, thrusting her arm through his. ‘“ You’re very young now—but very dirty. What have you been doing?” “Showing some of my lazy Italians how to dig trenches,” he replied, smiling. ‘I am in rather a state, aren’t I?” “Do you know what you have to do?” she asked. “Wash, presently.” “More than that. You have to put on your nice dinner clothes and come up to the villa for dinner.” “A royal command?” “Madam insists. You can perhaps guess what has happened. Another Virgin has arrived.” ’ ‘ You're very young now—but very dirty. HARPER’S BAZAR What have you been doing?” BLACK VIRGIN Who Was Brought to Unwilling Reparation PHILLIPS Illustrated by Marshall Frantz “Who is it this time, I wonder?” he inquired. She shook her head. “T was introduced, but the name sounded like a firecracker. He is fat, beaming, and prosperous. Also, I should imagine, Teutonic.” “T wonder if, by any chance, it is Reinhardt,” Cardinge muttered. “*Reinhardt,’ associated with a fantastic Christian name, it might very well be,” she admitted. “The great thing is, however, that you have about a quarter of an hour to change. I shall come and sit on your piazza and enjoy your gorgeous view.” HEY had returned to the house by this time, the front of which faced southeast, and looked over the broad, fruitful valley of vineyards, corn- fields, and olive groves, mounting on the other side to the village of St. Paulos. Cardinge arranged a chair for his visitor and hurried up to his room. He splashed about for a few moments in the flat sponge bath, left for him twice a day in an empty room leading out of his own, dressed, with that slight irrelevance which a man who has been used to have all things arranged for him generally displays when left to his own resources, and finally made his apologies to a fat, brown lady in the kitchen—apologies which, by the bye, were received most ungraciously. “Behold,” she exclaimed, pointing to the grate, “the dinner of monsieur three parts cooked. What istobedone? HadI but known halfan hour before!” OrpPENHEIM “But it is only within ten minutes that I have received the message, Marie,” her master ex- postulated. “Eat the dinner yourself this evening you and the good man Jean.” The wife of Jean was indignant. “Such food for us!” she scoffed. “Of all things the most ridiculous. Jean would drink too much wine and go off to the village. One must do what one can,” she wound up, snatching the pots from the fire. Cardinge and Claire walked slowly down the avenue, across the strip of dusty road and along a winding path—a short cut through the grounds to the villa. “How go things, Mr. Farmer?’’ Claire inquired. “Well enough,” he confided. “I sent sixty baskets of flowers and vegetables away to-day, and the vines look promising. I need a larger market, though, for my eggs.” “T will try and eat two every morning, instead of one,” she promised. “The villa is already my best private customer,” he told her. ‘Don’t imperil your digestion for my sake, I beg.” “Tt isn’t my digestion I’m afraid of, it’s getting fat,” she confessed. He glanced at her with an admiration which he tried to conceal. She was tall and slim, with the easy grace of an athletic figure, and yet with a certain stateliness in her movements. The clear sunburn of health had played no

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for DECEMBER 1924 havoc thoughtiul. “Jt’s a queer life for you here, child,” he declared a little abruptly. “You have said that before,” she remarked. “Why queer? From the moment I wake in the morning to the moment I go to sleep at night I am surrounded by beautiful things. What can there be more wonderful than that?” “You should have more friends,” he argued. “Friends of your own age.” “T have Armand,” she reminded him, “who is uite reasonable sometimes, and you, who are delightful always.” “T am not of your own age,” he objected, a little harshly. “I belong to the generation of your elders.” “Really? I never look upon you as such. To me you are just—well, the companion I like to have, when you're not grumpy, and do leave off imagining that you're first cousin to Methuselah. How old with her complexion. Her eyes were are you, Hugh?” “How dare you ask me such a question?” he proteste 1. “Well, I don’t believe you’re so old as you pretend,”’ she persisted. “I don’t believe you’re a day more than thirty-seven. I’m twenty, and there should be twelve years’ difference between a man and a woman to make for companionship. Therefore, you're four or five years older than I am. What’s four or five years, Hugh?” H" eves sought his, filled with an appeal to which he remained adamant. He set his teeth hard “That murky past of yours again, I suppose,” she sighed. ‘*Why you should worry about it so much, I can’t imagine. We all seem to be criminals in our little set. And, as for Armand, I should think in intent and disposition he’s the biggest criminal of all. You will tell me what you do with the fat man, won’t you, Hugh?” “It’s Madame who makes the plans,” he re- minded her. “‘ However, I'll give you a hint if I can. Where is he?” “Changing,” the girl replied. “He brought a dressing-case with him. I have a feeling that he will be very magnificent. . . . No one down yet,” she added, looking along the piazza. “I raced into my things, so as to be able to come and fetch you. Wait here, and I'll let Madame know of my success.” She left him alone for a moment. He wandered to the little bower of roses behind which Madame’s chair was generally concealed, took up a magazine and glanced at it. Suddenly he turned round at the sound of advancing footsteps. A fat man came lumbering along the piazza—a man with much flesh, yet also a strong man. There was power in his movements, elasticity in his frame. His abundant gray and brown hair was well brushed, his little mustache straight and spiky. His dress coat Was ornamented by a velvet collar, his white tie was very large, his pearl stud immense. His trousers were short and displayed black silk socks with light blue clocks. His patent shoes shone " \VE I perhaps the happiness to find an old comrade?” he asked. Then he stopped short. He was face to face with Cardinge, only a few feet away, and Cardinge was looking at him intently. No further word passed between the two men for seconds. The newcomer produced a large white cambric handkerchief and dabbed his forehead nervously. “T thought you were dead,” he muttered. “So do most other people,” Cardinge rejoined. ‘You had better go on thinking so. Do you understand?” “You mean here—Madame others?” several and the Cardinge nodded. “No one knows,” he said. “The silence,” Reinhardt mumbled, “may be mutual.” “Tt shall,’ Cardinge promised. “But what a hell of a nerve you’ve got to come here!” : Reinhardt sat down. He was beginning to feel more at his ease. Besides, in the room behind, he could hear the clink of ice, which seemed to establish his presence Teassuringly in the haunts of civilization. “c I do not know about that,” he protested. “An oath is a great thing. The summons called me. In the old days to have disobeyed it would have been equivalent to death. Besides, I'seek my quittance.” “T see,’ Cardinge murmured. “While we’re upon the subject,” Reinhardt continued, “I trust that Madame realizes the altered conditions under which we now meet. I have no longer the figure nor the ardor of youth. To undress a gendarme and throw him into the foun- tain would be to-day a prank of which I should be incapable.” “Madame has common sense,”’ Cardinge assured him coldly, with grim distaste. Madame came silently out to them, as imperturbable and mysterious as ever. She gave them her hand which each man in turn raised to his lips. Then she sank into her chair. “Even Otto has found his way here,” she observed. “It is a sublime act of fidelity.” “Madame, it is my tribute to the power you have always exercised over your slaves,”’ Reinhardt declared. Dinner was announced a_ few minutes later. It was served, as usual, luxuriously and with great care for detail. The glass and siiver shone in subdued splendor. The wines and food were the best the country could afford. In the center of the table was an inset glass bowl, lit by tiny electric lights—a bowl, floating in the waters of which were great clusters of cut roses. A butler and two footmen waited with noiseless efficiency. Armand, who had come in late and confessed to having lost money at baccarat at Nice, ate and drank in sulky silence. Reinhardt was exceedingly careful in the topics of conversation which he introduced. Madame declined to allow any em- barrassment, however, as_ to his nationality. “Tell me how they receive you when you travel,” she insisted. ‘Has the world changed yet? Do they dance to your music at the restaurants, the hotels, and the shops?” “Madame,” Reinhardt acknowl- edged frankly, “I call myself an Austrian. As such I am welcomed everywhere. Why this should be 89 so,” he added, with a momentary note of bitter- ness, ‘‘no sane being could determine. Of all the nations in the war, Austria’s exhibition was the most contemptible. Yet they are forgiven, while we, who had at least our heroic moments, are still unpopular.” “The Austrians Madame pointed out. “They had no burden of atrocities to carry on their back,’’ Cardinge observed drily. “It was not even clear that they desired war.” Reinhardt became discreet. “These matters,” he (Continued on page 108) possess more social graces,” + > * we a rg P * 4 : w “The Marquis looked at Reinhardt. The action appeared to require some self-control. ‘You have seen my patients?’ he inquired.”

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LYNN FONTANNE W such subllety does Miss Fontanne play her difficult réle in “The Guardsman” that t even as the curtain falls her husband, and the audience well, are still guessing. This first offering of the Theater Guild ts light comedy of ‘the new season. costume of lustrous, Miss Fontanne is wearing lem lered white, with an astonishing HARPE

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AR DICEMBER 1°24 \lfred Cheney Johnston LLOW OU young women of the Hot Springs, the Bahamas, and the Palm Beaches may not react as I do to the following communication irom a lowly Texas girl who is more interested in the drama than she is in golf, horse-riding, chess. surf-bathing, or flirtation. You may laugh at its touching supplications and regard them as the pa- thetic outcries of a simple southwest starling, anxious togetout. But to me her appeal is tear-compelling, and my eves are full of salty water-drops as I reprint below her sad entreaties: _ Sir: I want to be a dramatic critic and I don’t know how to head in. Tam sure that you are kind, 80 won’t vou advise me what to do? I suppose the best thing is to quit wishing for the stars, but I want them, oh, so badly! I have never been anything. “ast year I spent in Columbia University and got my M.A. degree in the department of English. 1 studied drama all through college and I love it. I saw a great many plays in New York and had Planned to go back this year. But financial condi- Hons are such that Dad can not afford it and I am compelled to become a bread-winner. My family nsists that I teach school. TI have no desire what- er to teach school. I won't teach school! I Want to be a dramatic critic. Xe a very influential one. Some day I want to . I know how hard it is to Into the big newspaper offices, and that there are milions of writers trying todo so. But that doesn’t seem to dull my desire one bit. Won’t you please DRAMATIC CRITICS Being Both Advice and Admonition to Those Who Feel the Percy HAMMOND By The people who are in ther Please tell I do want to so advise me what to do? had to begin once, so why can not I? me if there is any possible way. much and I would try so very, very hard to be a good dramatic critic. But I can’t unless you will tell me the way.” MBITIOUS young women seeking a means to “express themselves” in the theater no longer ask dramatic critics to put them on the stage. A year or so ago my mail was full of requests for help from aspiring dancers, singers, ingénues, and tragediennes who felt that their lives would be thwarted unless they were allowed to perform in public. One word from a reviewer, they thought, and the producers Many of them had already suifered from Broadway’s unfriendli- through ‘‘influence,” to escap the rebuffs of that There was a pathos in all of them, diificult for an would show signs of hospitality. ness; others sought, discourteous thoroughfare. In my time IT sup pose T have spoken to managers in behalf of a hun ample-hearted critic to resist. dred yearning vestals, none of whom, I fear, is at present in the service of the drama. But nowadays the ladies beseech a favor more onerous. They wish to be dramatic critics. Fellow reviewers tell me that more applications are made for that than for all the other occupations combined. The achievements of Jeanne Fagels, Laurette Taylor, Ulric, and Jane Cowl have ceased to tempt the young oihce Lenore JUST This is Anna Ludmilla, a beautiful little dancer who has been premiere danseuse of the Chicago Opera Company, and is now adding her daintiness and grace to the splendor of the new Greenwich Village Follies. HAPPEN Compelling Urge of Dramatic Critictsm persons and they are looking enviously at George Jean Nathan and Alan Dale. feuilleton in Harper's Bazar emphasizing the embar- Following a recent rassments of a critic’s position, I received thirty- one letters from hopeful girls demanding to know how to become one’ of the tribe of the “hated, vet caressed.” What qualifications are necessary, they inquired, and what should one do to get a situation? That which I have to say in answer to their pray I suspect, ers is of little value. Dramatic critics, just happen. They do not deliberately become so. Theirs is the most casual of the beginnings. All of a sudden some one tells you that you are a dra- matic critic and you are. \nd just as suddenly some one tells you that you are not and you are not. It may be permissible in the circumstances to \s a youth fresh from college I became a newspaper specialist in the police stations and criminal courts of a My hectic accounts of murders, for- relate how the job Was wished on me. large city. suicides, and divorces at- tracted the humorous attention of Eugene Field. Thinking to make a joke, Mr. Field suggested to my editor that my appreciation of the vices and geries, embezzlements, misdemeanors equipped. me for dramatic criticism. The editor took Mr. Field’s seriously and assigned me to report the sins i recommendation genous to.the playhouses. I have been doin ever since. Concerning the genesis of other fortunates I know but little. Mr. Woolleott of cluded on page 130)

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HARPER’S BAZAR TWO COSTUMES WITH MOST REMARKABLE SLEEVES Erté has the amus- ing idea of having a bang cut in little pointed S¢ allops ‘ A diamond hoop earring and a pear- shaped pearl earring are connected by a long loop of pearls. This was easy. Merely a long strip of A taupe satin wrap has only one sieeve. vivid rose velvet edged with chinchilla The other sleeve is formed by a scarf 4 spiraled around the figure. One end makes taupe fur decorated with a band of em- ° ° ° 5 {= a sleeve, the other end makes the train. broidery in gray and yellow and silver.

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j ZAR tor DECEMBER 1924 93 > € 'e* * ‘s \ ( , tt A tunic of white ermine embroidered with black | silk, and cut out, to show the black lining. | A black satin frock, slit Erté made this evening | to show a lining of \ leopard skin. There is one detachable gown of panther \ fur bordered with tur- sleeve. quoise over gold tissue Soe, —— Reece z Re ROOF ERTE AND HIS FLAIR FOR FURS This Extraordinary Young Russian Designer Has a_ Pecultar Sensitivity Yo All Manner of Fabrics He can make satin flow like liquid from a given point, he makes sheath-like gowns of velvet that mold miraculously to the body with the simplest amount of cutting and draping imaginable. A brooch here, a tassel there, the gown has impeccable line and just one seam. It is truly remarkable, and Erté does it again and again. Recently Erté has been interested in furs and their possibilities of being handled as if they were pieces of fabric. He drapes them with the same coolness and faultless understanding of line that he displays in handling crépe or soft lamé tissue. Furs become obedient and pliable under his touch; they become light and lace-like, or imitate some fabulousembroidery. Then, too, they become flatly tailored and lie down as meekly as blue serge to form a lapel or a long panel. On these two pages are remarkable examples of Erté’s cleverness in handling the spotted leopard and panther. At the extreme left opposite is a gown with a calm spiral of chinchilla winding up—or down, as the case may be—its length and ending in a short train. Quite differ- es. ent, and quite as interesting, is the gown shown on the same page. This is typical of Erté’s of method of handling fur. The gown is of taupe satin and has but one sleeve. The other sleeve - is formed by taupe fur that also forms a long scarf with a pocket in it. The fur is beautifully embroidered in gray and yellow and gold, and there is a little fur hat embroidered to match. i ite has always had a remarkable understanding of textiles and how to handle them.

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BARPER’S B {ZAR O04 ( & Be \ HE ry SZ g REMARKABLE BLACK AND WHITE EFFECTS IN FUR AND FABRIC y™ Run in and out of a kasha collar of an ermine shoulder cape is a black taffeta ribbon ending in a huge bow lie. The gown is of smocked laffeta, White ermine is used exactly as tf it were a fabric, in along knotted scarf and tied girdle all in one piece, like a ribbon, On aA SOW l ack velvet. ‘ f } > po fT here - a fsyN" —_ le, a oe ee - f | » .* ¥ / ' | | ~— ! gs CHAAR UROL AREER \ ASS Py » AFAURRRWY { t lnother black velvet gown has a tiny / ; ' . ¥ fy Empire bodice of white ermine, and / - . . hip 4 1! a necklace of ermine and ermine tails rat EU holding it up. The long split train is } ermine.on both sides, and ends in NQ ermine tails. Even the earrings are \ / tasseled clusters of tiny ermine tails. At Al er Gh CMNINE gm oj St Ermine and black satin are usec lame ‘ fled little ermine t this afternoon gown, made with a arranged ( e, white and black corsage in front and this boler twin ad silver tissue and interesting sash effect in th hacer.

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for DEC EMBER 1924 95 HANDS COME A GORGEOUS EVENING GOWN Fuchsia-colored velvet in a slip, he:d up by a strand of pearis about the neck, has sleeves of ostrich in shades lussel, strarght of mauve and a long ostrich cream-colored velvet, From ad yoke of LOr Ze ously embroidered with pe arl and gold, fall cascade after cascad long and only slightly curling ostrich feathers in shades of yellow and orange. & There is a foundation of deep mauve- colored velvet warmth, ¥ fod The fabric of this frock is crépe printed that re peats The sleeves ai ut nole by geometric so that the fabric forms strips contrasting black ornameut. with underneath for Black and white satin are combined to form an afternoon the black and white hits of and LOW gray and orange. ivory the blouse in an amusing effect.

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HARPER’S BAZAR Directly above is one of ihe most beautiful cars at the Salon, the formal town brougham on a Lincoln chassis, by Le Baron. Interior is in the Adam period. At the right, the Berline mounted on a Cadillac chassis reveals a luxurious interior where seats seem a green overstuffed lounge in a sand-colored room. At the left is the Packard eight exhibited by Fleetwood. This cabriolet, in two tones of gray, has the interior upholstered in a special Weise suéde cloth. MOTORS FROM SIX THEIR DEBUT MAKE HE New York Automobile Salon, inaugurated in 1904 as an annual exhibition of foreign cars, - has grown with each succeeding year in num- ber of exhibits and in the interest of the more dis- criminating of the followers of motoring until to-day it is a recognized mart for the exchange of motoring ideas from both sides of the ocean, and is unques- tionably the greatest, if not the only truly inter- national arbiter of fashions in automobiles—‘‘a coming-out party”’ where various features of design and construction are formally introduced to society. Fastidious motorists, people of taste and culture, who demand the same individuality in their motor- cars: that they exercise in their choice of jewels and clothing, annually make a rendezvous of the Automobile Salon. Few visitors, however, consider NATIONS the amount of thought and study involved in the designing, painting, upholstering, and fitting of the cars they view. An interesting example of such meticulous crafts- manship is the Lincoln brougham, designed by Le Baron, illustrated on this page. It is done entirely in the Adam period, worked out to the most minute detail by Weise. Jacquard medallions in French blue and silver on a gray ground, especially carded for this car, are used on two panels forming the seat-backs, and are also found in the door-panels. The lining in plain French gray, the especially woven broadlaces, carpets, and silk curtains all embody the period feeling. Special cloisonne in- terior mountings on sterling silver have been made by Macfarland, the cloisonné matching the blue in the Jacquard medallions.

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for DECEMBER 1924 The gray interior of this Lincoln brougham is in the Adam period. Cloisonné mountings match the blue in the Jacquard medallions. A specially designed cabriolet on the newest Shown in the center is a smart town car on At the bottom of the page is a new Pierce Locomobile chassis is distinguished by its a Wills Sainte Claire chassis exhibited by Arrow with an original convertible con- beauty of line and hand-made fenders with Willoughby. The exterior is black with red struction by Le Baron whereby the smart wells at both sides to carry spare wheels. trimmings; the interior is in tan broadcloth. little coupé can become an open runabout.

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HARPER’S BAZAR cx one -frece ovenale.tike Cotlime while. cotton vel- cH 7 perthin of tate heather tnthdeed with leer over a while colon (potardene: sonal x die PLE % tétlon~- Roevrre- dfocc ve be Le cole Jd her ow, soe Lebbe a, ort and back.

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fo DECEMBER 1924 99 Sf ; kK CALVLALC— Leck ae Tenet of Crown Le to Be wet uscd, a Jiutr- 0, 2 J ya Lzud Brown hasta coat. é >, Fy NY ‘ ‘ ’ ik aa 4 fia st) we Keege eal Clem & ached hasha. 7 tutte wool, het. Patt 8 anderohestl of Serte WOT “fe ee Kem ptt LOL 4 natcheng ceé fee . 4 NS Yo Ww WWCLortcae 7, il a CH# fe ee. Sa (A L a 020 ase wotbte Keown Maepool Potter, Shee PS P * A thos Ze C2 Cor sel if Co’ ae 2 ; O WLPH€e SF Srcceve poe aaect a sw? ? 2 a checked Under fJahic. y,

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HARPER’S BAZAR

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jr DECEMBER 1924 ‘Pepper Pot, smoking hot! In the days when Peggy Shippen was the reigning belle of the American Colonies, Pepper Pot was a famous dish on the tables of the aristocracy. Even the French, with all their culinary perfection, have never been able to duplicate real Philadelphia Pepper Pot. Campbell’s Pepper Pot is blended after our exclusive recipe—exactly the same as used by a famous cook patronized by the nation’s leading women in Revolutionary times. CAMPBELL Soup CoM CAMDEN, N. J., U-S-A- Whole black pepper gave it its name, but in the tee rich and tempting blend are marjoram, thyme, sweet red peppers, diced potatoes, delicious honeycomb Have you ever tasted real Philadelphia tripe, a generous supply of macaroni dumplings— Pepper Pot? To many it will be as unusual all combined with the subtle ‘‘ touch”’ of Campbell’s as it is delightful. Treat your appetite to this famous old dish today. No matter where you live, Campbell’s offer it to you at its delicious best. Already prepared. So 12 cents a can easily served. So much enjoyed! Pepper Pot Cook! LOOs FOR Tre REDAND-Werl re LASS.

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102

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HARPER’S 1ZAR WHY May Edginton’s Story (Continued fro door going out, and he cast a quick look into the hall. But Mrs. Butler really sat there, and must have been writing her Jetter, for she was sealing up an envelop. So Cross- thwaite opened the door wide and advanced upon her, followed by Butler. ‘Nothing wrong with your husband, my dear lady. I must say good evening.” He took her hand into his and found it very cold. “T hear young Alec is off to school directly.” eo. “You're sending him a long way off.” He had his finger-tip, though she had not re alized it, on her pulse. She looked down. “It is a long way, isn’t it?’ ‘Too far for her to go messing after him every half term,” said Butler. She suddenly looked at Butler, and the bitter look brought all Crossthwaite’s pro- fessional sense to the alert. ‘Nowhere would be too far,” she said. “Oh, yes, it would,” replied Butler. “Well,” said Crossthwaite, “I must be going. I hope you'll dance a great deal.” The front door bell rang, and a man was ushered into the hall “Mr. Savill,” said a servant. Crossthwaite stood back, observing. He was a young man, tall and lean, in evening dress. He and Butler greeted each other perfunctorily. The woman turned suddenly away, as if to pick up her fur coat, not to betray her face. But she betrayed herself to Crossthwaite; so he held the coat for her without hesitation, making cover for her. E WALKED out, after a good-by to Butler, closely behind them. He stood a moment beside the door of their taxi-cab, chatting. In his brain, where such things were pigeon- holed, he had docketed the thought: ‘So this is what is going to hz uppe n.” Good-by, Dr. Crossthwaite,” said Mrs. Butler. Crossthwaite had to stand -back then; and she drove away with Savill. For a little while they drove in silence; then Savill, turning as if with deliberate decision acted upon for the first time, put his arm around her and drew her close; and she, with a sigh as of surrender for the first time, put her head in the hollow between his ne anc shoulder so that, as he bent his head, her closed eyes were under his lips. “Darling!” “Oh, Hugh!” “Lucy, do you love me?” “ ELF PIO RQQd 6649" Ge S97 XSF) ESI OKRA «CE Ly Ge SF KR) SIR dE SIO FR EIFS 2 Ce EG,

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ould.” “Vet nd let chair wfully re my agree uld be ghts,” mine! ought orders from wr the reme, f men little ike it are it anted Fred For w—" while Such egged » you she’s en to en he in't I is he nn’s.’ ire he oathe Sie ie ( The Pierce-Arrow Dual-Valve Six, Seven-Passenger Sedan, selected by J. V. de Laveaga, Esq. For this car, Mr. de Laveaga chose a finish of dark maroon. The striping of deep brown on the body, hood and wheels is divided by a hairline stripe of cream. The ya finished in black give an effective contrast. Heather mixture upholstery was chosen to harmonize with this color scheme. SGD To owners of the Pierce-Arrow Dual-Valve Six, a motor car is more than a means of transportation. It is an integral part of a whole background of well-ordered living. Such or in more than limited numbers. THE PIERCE-ARROW MOTOR CAR COMPANY BUILDS TWO TYPES OF MOTOR CARS, THE SERIES 33 DUAL-VALVE SIX IN THIRTEEN BODY STYLES, AT $5,250 AND UPWARD; THE SERIES 80 IN SEVEN BODY STYLES, AT $2,895 AND UPWARD DUAL-VALVE SIX Open cars $5,250 Closed cars $7,000, at Buffalo , ) : ; ; : , x a car, naturally, cannot be produced by ordinary methods, | : FKPIioKC E : th

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Re mmm

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HARPER’S BAzaghor WHY May Edginton’s Story (Continued from page 102) you were not there. And then—but tell me where you were going to say you went after the Argots’ ?” “We went to Murray’s,” she cried out, now loud with fear. And instead of Butler she saw the sleeping faces of the children in the cribs up-stairs. ‘Ah! But I thought of that and rang up Murray's too. And you were not there, but that friend of Savill’s, man called Arnold Lister, was. I thought of asking for him, and he came to the phone. Well?’ He looked, blazing with rage, at her droop- ing white face. “You don’t fool me.” “Fred, will you leave me alone? I—I’ve got to sleep.” Butler flung her wrist from him and walked out, stopping at the door just to say, “My wife, and Alec’s and Tiny’s mother—”’ She locked the door after him, tore off her frock, and threw herself on her bed under a sudden weight of cold blackness. When she came out of the brief faint she slept. About ten o'clock she awoke. There were rappings on her door. She felt very heavy and dull. She heard the tinkle of crockery accompanying the rappings, and calling out, “Put the tray outside,” she struggled off her bed. Before she took in the tray she went over to her dressing-table and looked in the glass. A trail of thought became memory, discovery, knowledge. And as she looked, she began to smile amazedly. She opened the door quietly, lifted the tray, and sat down and ate breakfast. Her hands trembled, but a great quiet had descended on her. She stared before her, her lips touched with the discovering smile, till another knock fell upon the door. “Mr. Savill is on the telephone, ma’am.” “Just tell Mr. Savill I will send him a note or message before the end of the week.” EFORE the end of the week Crossthwaite called again. He called at a time when he guessed Butler would be in, and he was right. Butler was in his study, doing nothing over a cup of tea. “Well, Butler,”’ said Crossthwaite, ‘‘how’s your wife?” Butler looked at him. “T don’t know. “Ah,” said Crossthwaite. “Crossthwaite,”’ said Butler, getting up and standing on the hearth-rug, “1 am divorcing her.” The doctor made no reply “Savill,” said Butler, “damn him! The very night you called fast—" “T don't believe it. ““You—don 't—believe You must be a fool.” “T’ve known you both for a good many years. I brought both those kids into the world. So I know her better than I know you, Butler. I've seen her in such suffering as you can’t dream of. She is the kind of woman who would go to hell and back for a child. She wouldn't forfeit them lightly. You have made a ghastly mistake; you've insulted her in a way for which you'll never atone, try how you will. Goon your knees to her, man, and get her to forgive. Crossthwaite broke off before Butler's hard stare. Butler's voice with great pain, but also derision in it, said: “How do you account for this, then? She isn’t going even to attempt to put up < de fe nse. “My God!” said Crossthwaite, starting. “Have you anything more to say? “Butler, are you sure? “She has already told me so, through < solicitor.” ‘“Then—where is she?” “At the moment, I understand, at a little hotel in Arundel Street. The White Cross Hotel.” “You turned her out! “T placed the car at the disposal of herself and luggage.” “Good God!” muttered Crossthwaite. ‘And that brute Savill?” “IT neither know nor care.” ‘But, man, she’s not with him.’ “Apparently, no. Crossthwaite held out his hand. “Butler, you know how sorry I am “I dare say, Crossthwaite, I dare say. W hethe r you are or not doesn’t matter. “Doesn't, does it?” said Crossthwaite, going out. i+) H°* DIRECTED his chauffeur, “White Cross Hotel, Arundel Street,”’ and when he got there, Mrs. Butler was in. She was in the writing-room, writing letters. She colored when she saw Crossthwaite, and braced herself; she looked at him quickly and warily. “Can we go somewhere and talk?” he asked. They went into a large empty drawing- room, and sat together on a Chesterfield at one end. Crossthwaite looke close, frank scrutiny. ‘I've seen Butler.”’ 1 at her With 4 “Of course, or you wouldn't | 2 € here, ; he’ sent you? Has “I've come on my own entirely, My ® dear,” said Crossthwaite, re ally distrescad “I’m more sorry than I can say Sor the news. What in heaven's name made ven do it?” ~ Yous She murmured. 5 “You're going to defend yourself?’ “No. Didn't Fred tell you?” “He told me. But look here, a defens always be concocted. Don’t lose heart. “I don't want to defend myself,” “You owe it to yourself, to your friends all of us who believe in you—to Alec and Tj ny My dear, I could not think that you—if y were the guiltiest woman on earth- i v0 give up your children without a stiff fight Put up a big fight. I've known you many years. I don’t forget your joy in on babies. Fight, my dear, fight, You ba for them and they are yours and you ove them.” Crossthwaite was unable to read her face But she shook her head. ‘The suit will be undefended.” ‘Then you want to marry Savill.” “That's between him and me, isn’t it? “Do you think you'll be happy with him? “T think I'm going to be very happy.” “God grant you may,” said Crossthwaite earnestly. Thank you for coming here.” “And you tell me how you are.” “Fit,” she replied, with a bright, wary glk ince at him. P ‘What are your plans?” “Any old plan. I sha’n’t defend my and so—I needn't appear. You see I have a little money of my own. I can disappear Ww here and when I will.” ‘And Alec and Tiny? Poor souls; won't they miss you?’ “T don't think they'll be allowed,” she replied, locking her hands tightly on her <nee. “You can dismiss the thought like that? “Ves, yes,”’ she nodded. “I can. “Tsn’t there anything I can do for you?” ‘Nothing; except say goo:l-by; I'm anxious to say good by to every one and everything that I know.’ Se can

ive

ROSSTHWAITE looked at her carefully and long, without concealing the ex amining quality of his regard. But she stoo up to his look, pale, slender, and strong; bol and fearless. She had always impressed him as a strong woman-—so strong as to lk practically unbreakable. Just the same, endurance perplexed and intrigued him. \V didn’t she break and weep? Why shoul eyes shine? Why wasn't she, even if loved Savill, at least dismayed at the prospect of ordeal? How did she, a passionate mother face the giving up of her children to t! father for ever, when she had hated feared the least act of despotism on his part toward them? “You have not come to this without a struggle?’ he asked suddenly. - fe. don’t struggle at all. I shall drift— “Until—” oe ‘The tide will bring me in quite safe,” sae salad Crossthwaite lingered, saying, “Good- ; well, good-by. And if you want me—anything I can do ; But she dismissed him. Crossthwaite drove home, thinking course,” he thought, “Butler's right. 5! guilty. It was worth it to her; and shes going to face the result.’’ He was sorry an" contemplative. Such a fine, proud, a fastidious woman, with such pluck! He knew that, none better. It was a thousan! pities to see her go the way of unworthir ones. Did she really want Savill?

by She's

ROSSTHWAITE alighted at his ow door, went in, and was met by the a ’ creet manservant. . “4 gentleman, Mr. Savill—to see you, S! Not professionally.” ; ‘Savill! Where is he? ” said Crossthwaite “In your study, sir. Crossthwaite went in, and saw hearth- rug the big, lean young man. “Excuse my troubling you, sai He looked very troubled himself. met for a moment at the Butlers evening.” “Ah: Yes.” “And I believe you're their medic al man. Do you know what—what’s happened since: Crossthwaite frowned. He stood like 4 judge. i ‘You must be very sure of yourse# Savill, to have risked w hat you did. “T’ve done nothing.” on the 1 Savill. “But we * the other Mr. “Nothing?” Es “Oh, well, practically nothing. (Concluded on page £00)

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BAZAR for DECEMBER 1924 at her with , © here. Has i ntirely, \f,, y distresseq Say for this > Made yoy § lf?’ t defense can heart,” ur friends— ec and Tiny You paid id you love ud her face n't it?” with him? Ippy ‘ossthwaite ight, wary end myselj 2e I have a disappear uls; won't wed y on her ike that? Pyou?” M anxious -Verything ithout a rift— afe,” she Good-by you, sir. thwaite. on the Savill. But we e other i] man. since? like 3 li, Mr. A Quality That Only Orientals and Teéclas Possess Iridescence What most delights the eye of a connoisseur in Técla Pearls is their perfect iridescence—and what is very likely to confuse the amateur is the false brilliance that passes for iridescence in imitations —only two pearls in the world possess iridescence in the true degree: the Oriental and the Técla. Tecla Pearl Necklaces with Genuine Diamond Clasps $100 398 Ffth/Wenue Mew York IO Rue de Ia Paix.Paris 7 Old Bond St., London

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106 Lenore Ulric wearing a sheath- like gown of cream lace over flesh satin. Designed for her by Bergdorf - Goodman. ERGDORF OODMAN 616 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK HARPER’S BAZAR WHY May Edginton’s Story (Concluded from page 104) “Tf you like to tell me, tell me,” said Crossthwaite. “Thanks. You know how it happened? We were going to a dance; we didn’t go. We went down to Thameside instead and had dinner at the Fisher’s Arms. I ordered the taxi to wait. It didn’t. There was no train. We were there all night.” Crossthwaite covered a yawn ostentatiously. He now disliked Savill. “A pretty obvious and ordinary story, you think?” said Savill, firing. ‘Well, it wasn’t. No credit to me, as you may believe—but it wasn't. Do you know what we did? We sat up all night in the room where we had dinner, and talked.” Crossthwaite started. the other hard. Savill returned miserably, but without flinching. “A thing like that—” said Crossthwaite. “Can be proved,” said Savill. “The proprietor didn’t go to bed till one. The boots got up and gave us some breakfast between three and four. There are various confirmatory details I could mention. A good counsel would do a lot with them.” ‘But I understand that she doesn’t intend to defend?” He stood looking at his look No. “Why is that?” said Crossthwaite thunder- ously. “Do you suppose a woman of her caliber isn’t going to protect her good name if there’s the least chance of doing it?” “T cannot tell you why.” “And you?” “Do you suppose I’m going to defend against her express wish? Why, I was too glad! I was elated beyond dreams when she wrote and told me. All I could think of was: ‘She'll be free, no matter by what pretext!’” “Free to marry you?” ‘She won't marry me!” said Savill hoarsely. Crossthwaite now stood petrified, “‘Then why—why—” “T don’t know, I tell you!” said Savill frenziedly. ‘‘I want you to give me an inkling. You're her doctor. Don’t women have queer moods? Isn’t there a medical explanation? I begged her on my knees and she refused. Her refusal! was definite and ultimate. I knew it; and yet—” “Sit down, Savill,’’ said Crossthwaite in a kinder voice. ‘‘ You're very fond of her?” “T adore her.”’ “She was fond of you?” ‘She let me—that’s to say, I thought—” “Quite so,” said Crossthwaite. *‘‘Yet she won't marry you.” ““Does she only want to get free?” Savill. ‘“No,” said Crossthwaite, “‘because there are the boy and girl. Why should she want to empty her life and not fill it up again?” asked AVILL sat silent, frowning and suffering. “It’s no use your defending the case if she doesn't, of course,” said Crossthwaite. “Do you suppose I want to? God! I'll only be too glad of the chance to free her, and try for her.’ And he leaned forward and asked almost timidly: ‘*You—you can’t throw any light?” “Damned if I can!” said Crossthwaite. Savill continued: “She made me promise not to molest her for at least a year. Crossth- waite, during that time the decree’ll be made absolute. Well, my only way of keeping my promise is to get right away—clear off. I’m going abroad with a man I know, for a bit. Then when I come back, I'll go all out for her.” “Of course,” said Crossthwaite. “She may be wanting to test me—to see if I really love her for keeps. Eh?” “Damned if I know, Savill,” said Crossth- waite. ‘You should have a better knowledge than I.” “In view of all you’ve said “I haven’t said.” “In view of all you haven't said then, I stick to my idea. She’s afraid of marriage, distrusts it. How wretched she’s been! She is testing me.” Crossthwaite gave Savill a whisky and soda, and sent him off. Before his consulting hours next morning the doctor was again in Arundel Street. But Mrs. Butler had gone, leaving no address. AVILL walked in upon Crossthwaite eleven months later. “T won’t keep you,” he said, without waste of time, ‘but have you her address?” “Mrs. Butler’s?” said the doctor. ‘No, I regret I have not seen or heard of her since I Whispers from Paris! Yes CU last saw you. Butler got course, as you ll know.” **My lawyers wrote to me.” “No one of her friends knows where she js.” one m going to know. She's going to marry “T like to hear you talk like that Savill “But you don’t think I'll work it out he” ““T can’t possibly tell,” the doctor re lied “Ive been thinking continually. oad In sure. She wanted to test me. Well i stood the test—”’ een Just then Crossthwaite’s telep “Well,” said Savill, phone rang. to have worried you. good-by.” Left alone, when he had rather brusquel answered the call, Crossthwaite began walking up and down. His professional imagination was keenly stimulated. He had always prided himself on keeping, as far as possible his finger upon the pulse of a patient’s mind But Mrs. Butler had eluded him. He looke his divorce, of “you'll be busy, Sorry I'll find her somehow— in his engagement book. To-day was Monday. The following week-end was free He looked up a number, unhooked the receiver, and rang up the best detective agency in town. He had a feeling that he wanted to reach her again, to persuade her to talk, before Savill found her, so that he might complete for his own satisfaction his notes upon her case. N THURSDAY morning called him up with news. On Friday Savill came in, despairing savagely: “Haven't you a clue, a theory? Can't you help some way?” ; “Tf ever I am able to, Savill, I will. Call in next week, if you haven’t heard anything.” “T shall employ detectives.” **Shall you, indeed?” “You disapprove my methods?” “T do not say that,” replied the doctor judicially. Saturday midday saw him on his way int Wales. His journey’s end was a villag among mountains, his quest a cottage with ar unspeakable name. A Welsh servant girl opened the door to him, took him into a sitting-room which was poorly furnished, but yet had Lucy’s elegant mark upon it, and left him there. Behind folding doors which shut the room off from another, he heard a whisper and soft movements; then one of the folding doors opened carefully, and Mrs. Butler came in. She looked well and happy, with a color in her cheek. But her eves were frightened and wary directly they rested on Crossthwaite. “You, Dr. Crossthwaite?”’ “And you, Mrs. Butler. You look well “What have you come for?” “Dear me,” said Crossthwaite, urbanely but sharply quizzing her, “aren't you pleased to see me, dear lady?” “You've come for something.” “May I sit down? Thanks. You know, I've been thinking about you, wondering there wasn’t something to be done. And the other day, a friend of yours came home. “Hugh Savill?” the agency “Ves. He came to see me.” “*He—he—he’s glad, I dare say, that didn't—”’ “On the contrary. He is looking for yo to marry him.” “T won't!” “My dear lady, now remember I have known you for several years, Give me privilege to speak. Do you think this life here in hiding is worth while? Do you thik you had a right to stand aside without defend ing yourself? Can’t I beg you—now it 1s too late to do that—at least to let your frien know the real reason of it all?” UST as Crossthwaite spoke, a tiny cry cam from the other room. He was on his fee immediately, but she was before him at the folding doors, her back against them. “No!” Then with a little gesture ° resignation she stood aside, and Crossthwal assed in. ; ‘ He saw a drowsy infant nearly three months old blinking in a sa ne fire. So. . . . Butler was right. ” He walked up to the cradle, looked dows closely, and then, amazed again, saw 0 extraordinary likeness; that this was indeed Butler's son. ; Her hand fell on his arm. He turned — her face, white and rather fierce, begging ™ * This—this isn't Savill’s “Savill’s! Good God, no! mine! Iam free, and he is all for me. He is mine Don tte n as early as this, there are indications of the new mode for spring. And they wt be reported and illustrated in next month's Harper’s Bazt

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or DECEMBER 1924 a S divorce. of where she js.” Ng to marry that, Savill < it out, ¢ ’, and I'm Well, I've hone Tang. uSy, So r somehow- er brusque 1 suade her to j at he 4 n. his notes he agency despairing Can't you ill. Callin iything.”

he doctor

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Valaze Complexion Powder and Valaze are carressingly fine, and a tint for every coloring; Rachel, Ochre, Ochre Naturelle not universal and urged all beauty-loving women to choose only those preparations for each individual skin Valaze Beauty Preparations are highly specialized and include ry skin condition Valaze Blackhead and Open Pore Paste $1.00, $2.00 Valaze Pasteurized Facial Cream $1.00, $3.50 Valaze Beautifying Skinfood $1.00, $2,50 Valaze Skin-toning Lotion $1.25, $2.50 Valaze Anthosoros $1.75, $3.50 Valaze Georgine Lactee $3.00, $6.00 Valaze Cream of Lilies $1.50 Valaze Persian Eye Black (mascara) $1.50 Valaze Lip Lustre (Lipstick) $1.00, $1.75 Valaze Compact Rouge $1.00 Valaze Complexion Powder for oily and normal skin Valaze Novena Powder for dry skins $1.00, $1.50, $2.50, $3.50, $5.50 Send for 1924 Treatment Booklet and names of Rubinstein Dealers in your vicinity. You are invited to bring your beauty problems to the attention of Mme. Rubinstein, either personally or by mail. The celebrated Valaze Beauty Salons are listed below—visit the nearest one. Consultation Helena Rubinstein 46 West 57th Street, New York 30 No. Michigan Blvd., Chicago Paris 126 rue du fbg St. Honore Hollywood 1780 Highland Ave. Newark, N. J., 951 Broad St. HARPER’S THE BLACK VIRGIN E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Continued from page 89) pronounced, “do not lend themselves to profitable discussion. After dinner Reinhardt planted himself stolidly before Madame. He held his coffee cup in one hand, his cigar and liqueur brandy were near by. ““Madame,” he said, summons. I am here.” “Very much here,” “You have grown very hardt.”’ “T am still active,” he replied. “My size does not incommode me. I allude to the fact that I am here at Madame’s commands. What service can I render her?” “You desire your quittance?” “T do, indeed,” he assured her earnestly. “The episode of which you possess a brief written narration is of slight import in itself but, for various reasons, just now its publica- tion would mean ruin. I am glad that you are frank,”” Madame commented coldly. ‘‘How do you desire to obtain possession of this quittance? By service or payment?” “Madame,” Reinhardt said, ‘compared with the majority of my country people I happen to be a rich’ and prosperous man. If a payment is necessary before I receive my quittance, I will make it. Service, I fear, will be more difficult. I have lost my taste for the irregular. I have taken my place among the sedate ones of the earth.” “Money,” Madame rejoined, “I do not accept. Service of a sort I expect. What your task may be you shall know within a few hours. I can assure you that you will not find it bevond your powers. “You will understand,” Reinhardt persisted, “that it is not my desire, especially at the pre sent moment, to run counter to the law.’ ‘I understand also,” she replied with a touch of sarcasm, “that you desire your quittance. “T received your Madame agreed. large, Otto Rein- EINHARDT spent an uneasy evening. Madame and Cardinge were talking together for some time, and he was very well aware that he was the subject of their con- versation. It interested him little to con- verse with Claire. The ingénue in his own country or any other was of no interest to him. What he did desire to feel in his posses- sion was that envelop with the black seal, of which he had thought many times. So long as it was in existence the great aim of his life would be a hazardous adventure. It was his ambition to be the first ambassador of his country to France. That night no relief was afforded him. Madame bade him good night at a somewhat early hour, and her manner did not encourage any further questioning on his part. Car- dinge departed soon afterwards, and, in any case, to be alone with Cardinge was the last thing he desired. He was left in charge of Armand, who, ascertaining that there was no two-handed game of cards in which he cared to indulge, promptly lost interest in him. There seemed to be nothing left to him but to drink a bottle of beer—procured with some difficulty—and to go to bed. “Service, not money,” he muttered to himself, as he undressed and — ted upon the luxury of his surroundings. I do not like the sound of it. Still, one must remember that they do not yet know how rich I am. He found ‘his bag unpacked and his flannel pajamas lying in readiness for him, in strange juxtaposition to the apple-green silk coverlet, the linen sheets, and embroidered pillow- slip. He undressed gloomily, closed all the windows and went to bed. HE latest visitor to the villa was called and escorted to his bath in the morning by a capable young man-servant who in- formed him that coffee would be served upon the piazza at half-past eight. When he descended he found a little table set for one. On it was a note addressed to him in Madame’s penciled handwriting. He tore it open. It contained the briefest of messages. “Vou will place yourself in Hugh Cardinge hands for the day. If you are successful the quittance will be yours io-night. “ Madame.” Reinhardt drank his very good coffee, which he much appreciated, and ate his rolls and butter and preserved cherries with appetite. There was a shadow upon his face. A whole day with Cardinge was the last thing in the world he desired—a long day, apparently, for he had scarcely lit his cigar and leaned back to enjoy the beauty of the morning when Cardinge, in a little two- seated car, came skimming up the avenue. Reinhardt looked at the vehicle doubtfully and at Cardinge with trepidation. His worst fears were speedily realized. “Get a coat if you think you'll need it,” Cardinge enjoined. “We may be going some distance.’ “In that?” Reinhardt asked, looking gloomily at the side. “Tn this,” was the equable reply. “Better get a coat if you're likely to feel the cold. I drive fast and we shall be going into the sien 4 The prospective passenger made his way back to his room. thoroughly unpleasant day. vacant seat by Cardinge’s turned and He foresaw a URSE you and your car!” hardt’s first intelligible staggered down to the little — road. Cardinge smiled mirthlessly as he shut off his engine. This was not an enterprise which appealed to him. “Sorry you don’t like us,” he remarked briefly. “It isn’t every thirty horse- power car would bring you up seven thousand feet without a pause.” “We might have been killed times at those corners,”’ angrily. His companion descende« d. “T couldn't help the fact that we were on the outsi: dle all the way coming up,” he ob served. “You'll be more comfortable going down.” “And now we're here, where are we?” his — passenger demanded. Cardinge indicated the panorama below with a sweep of his hand. “You are enjoying, or you should be en- joying, one of the most beautiful views in Europe,” he pointed out. “The silver streak in the distance is the Mediterranean. That medieval-looking fortress to the right is Grasse. This is the village of St. Joseph the highest point on the road. And we are going to pay a visit to the Chateau St Joseph,”’ he tiled. ringing a bell which hung down in the great stone portico before which they had halted. “Does any sane man live up here?” Rein hardt growled. “This chateau,” Cardinge told him, “is the home of the great family of de Mon tercey—the M: irquis de Montercey lives here now. We're going to call upon him.” “Why?” Reinhardt inquired suspiciously. “The —. to that question will present itself shortly,” Cardinge replied drily. A porter in ancient but well-preserved livery admitted them in due course. He received Cardinge’s card with a bow. “Monsieur le Marquis is expecting you, monsieur,” he announced. “If you will have the goodness to follow me.” They passed out of a courtyard and stepped through a postern door into the lower of two terraced gardens. Even Reinhardt gave vent to a little exclamation of wonder as they stood for a moment looking about them. The gardens themselves were not large, the ground fell away precipitously on either side, but they were beautifully kept, and on the summit the chateau, with its round towers at either end, its gray front still in wonderful repair, notwithstanding its great age, seemed to appear out of space, with an unrec ulity almost fantastic. The stone-flagged walks—crumb- ling and cracked with age—were flanked with roses, wonderfully luxuriant considering the altitude. There were great clumps . verbena, heliotrope, and many sweet-scented flowers. Orange trees were in blossom in the more sheltered places and there was a little grove of olive trees behind the wall. Seated about, some on the ancient benches and some in long chairs, were a score or so of men, a clad alike, but strangely. Here and there among them, a nurse was sei ated talking or moving about. “What the devil is this? demanded. ‘A hospital?” Cardinge shook his head. “Tt is one of the most fz umous chateaux of France,” he answered. “The Marquis, however, is a very unhappy man. He lost three sons in the war. For their sakes, he entertains here a score of invalids. Can you gue bat 1s the matter with these men, Reinhard” “They look like consumptives, muttered reply. were Rein- words, as he strip of white 1 a score of Reinhardt declared stretched himself and ” Reinhardt ” was the ARDINGE led him on, spoke to one of the nurses, who welcomed him as an habitué, and exchanged a few words with some of the patients. Then he turned back to his com- panion. és “They are scarcely consumptives, explained, ‘ ‘although there is not one of these men with sound lungs. They are the — of that accursed device of your coun = people which destroyed the chivalry of a for all time. They are suffering from poise Reinhardt used it yourselves,” retorted. . “After you had invented it, reminded him. ‘poor fellows. (Continued on pu’ Cardinge “Just glance r ound at these There is ngt one of them who ) BAZAR fi A

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‘ if for DECEMBER 1924 a ZAR A PHONOGRAPH TO PLAY YOUR FAVORITE MUSIC, ALWAYS; THE MUSIC OF THE AIR AT THE TURN OF A LEVER 'dinge’s ‘Better e cold. ito the d and § resaw a 7 » Rein as he white hut off which narked -power id feet ore of eclared i and 4 ere on : he ob as a2 o 2” his 4 below g te be en- ts ° C2 ws In 40% streak % That 1s tht is & eph ¥| ve are fe wu St : | hung 4 ? . which *% Brunswick Radiola : T Rein No. 360 n. a Mon lives m.” ous; resent served . He you, | have > THE REMARKABLE BRUNSWICK RADIOLA SUPER-HETERODYNE epped f two gave e , : . r . 4 . . ; they N the Brunswick Radiola, Bruns- Three Remarkable Features: but a scientifically oe unit, The _ : ° , > ay E se w IOS1- and wick presents that which musi- ; : . which one may purcnase ith pos “oe a ; ae 1 Requires no outside antenna—no ground wires. tive assurance of lasting satisfaction Pie: cal authorities, artists and critics Wan a re it § t —plays wher- mmit ; ive ou can move it trom room to room—plays through the vears to come. either join in acclaiming the most remark- ever you place it. = eparr, " Rs , . e _ d to , sic >veme ay. ; - = At a turn of a lever it is the most ae able musical achievement of thed : 2 Amazing selectivity permitting you to “cut out” | “tli f all ae At siete um)- For here is radio given a new qual- what you don’t want to hear and pick out instantly thri ing Of ali radios. 8 ; inked : ; ; = ; what you do. Consider what this means in big turn it is the supreme in a phono- oa ity of tonal beauty, clarity and centers. graph to keep the recorded music ys O . . . ented musical excellence. An instrument ; ray —— of all time at your command. A in the f i \ toscana ine 3 Combines the superlative in radio with the super- i h / lio j feos little en 7 ens , lative in phonographic reproduction—a phonograph Ponograph, a radio in one, = /An¢ a field its own. and a radio in one. each one, the superlative. bee Multiply your previous ideals of the Some models embody the Radiola ng oF miracle of radio; your former concep-_ [f a cy Super-Heterodyne. Others the Radiola s fs a ‘ Door on side of cabinet : — Uutona a hart tions of the utmost in home entertain- containing loop for operation of shan oll Regenoflex and the Radiola No.3 and 3 RADIOLA SuPER-HETERODYNE phonograph - os S ment—and even then will you scarcely . NO records 3A. All emphasize the exquisite cabi- ux of have a fair picture of what this new j keen net work and beauty of design which i e a 9,’ transforms “ 4 a oat Instrument embodies. [| phonograph to characterize Brunswick instruments. es, he - es a ° . —_ _— : y ~ / Tt Can Combined in joint effort by the Radio it Prices range from $190 upwards. A few a Corporation of America, the leader in arena of the more notable models are illus- s . n = . i oval-tone amplifier > y 7 > . , r 5 the radio, with Brunswick, leader in musi- | et trated here. A complete showing may 3 i x 1 rawer i ‘ q ane ip > 2rC f cal reproduction, it embodies the best 4 |. containing be seen at all Brunswick dealers. An f the . . . . ADIOLA | Ba 2.2 “ oe) that men know in radio and in music. eT — opportunity of which you are urged to ; 2 ae i ° . ce Py HeTtao see ac ; a og f the In nowise is it a makeshift (simply a eres (¢ oe avail yourself now, so as to be sure of ( ° ‘ a . iehind this door } Sa > —_ , wa radio receiver in a phonograph cabinet), |Z ——\ 8 = Christmas delivery. ’ he ‘ims The Sign of Musical Prestige intry ° ® ee Liberal Terms— Your Brunswick dealer will gladly # ve arrange terms of payment to meet your requirements ard on any Brunswick Radiola you select. Prices range ’ from $190 to $650. inge 7 © B.B.C. Co. 1924 PHONOGRAPHS + RECORDS ~- RADIOLAS

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110 SHIRTMAKERS AND HRABERDASHAERS French Silk Cravats $6.00 each $4.50 each Vonograms additional French Silk Crepe Handkerchiefs Trench Silk $7.50 pair French Lisle $3.50 pair French Brocaded Silk Lounge Robe Handsomely Lined. Price $175.00 Distinctive Holiday Gifts Articles illustrated above are of Luxurious Quality. They come in a wide variety of Beautiful Colorings and are suitable for Gifts of Exceptional Character. When ordering by mail state size and colors preferred Illustrated Booklet sent upon request 512 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK At 43D STREET LONDON PARIS HARPER'S BAz4, THE BLACK VIRGIN E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Continued from page ToS) will ever know again the real joy of living, not one of them who could probably even live in any other climate. They weren't killed with man’s joy of battle in their blood and the knowledge that they were fighting for the great things that make death splendid. — were just the victims of a_ horrible and debased science, made to live on like this—men still but without the heart and blood of men.” “Why have you brought me here to see them?” Reinhardt demanded. “That you shall know in good time, Cardinge replied. “ At present I’m going to take you inside. Your appearance is a little against you, Reinhardt. Some of them are looki ing at you as though they knew. We will go and visit Monsieur le Marquis.” THEY passed into the chateau. The great doors stood wide open. Inside was a wonderful wall, extending almost to the roof — a wall hung with tapestries and somber paint- ings. A servant came forward to greet them. ‘Ask if Monsieur le Marquis will receive me _ the person whom he is expecting,” ‘ardinge begged. ‘Monsieur le Marquis expects you, mon- sieur,”’ the man announced, leading the way. They followed him into a very be autiful room with groined arches, a“ a stained-glass window at the further end, below which was built what seemed to be a shrine. Udon a dais adjoining and covered with a white cloth were three swords. The room was scantily furnished, but had an air of severe and soldierly dignity. There were only one or two paintings upon the bare walls, and another small shrine, beneath which was a bowl of white roses. A man who had been writing at a table rose slowly to his feet as his two visitors entered. He was thin and not very tall. His hair was perfectly white. His eyes were kindly and his mouth seemed almost the mouth of a woman. As he looked behind Cardinge, however, its lines grew suddenly hard and firm. “You are welcome, he said, shaking hands. Cardinge turned to Reinhardt. “T shall not present you, Monsieur le Mar- quis, to my companion,” he announced, ** but I will tell you that his name is Reinhardt. I have brought him here for the purpose you know of.” The Marquis looked at Reinhardt. The action appeared to require some self-control. “You have seen my poor patients?” he inquired. “IT have seen them,” Reinhardt “T am very sorry for them. The brought great misery to many people.’ “QOur friend, as you see, is sympathetic.” Cardinge observed. “Sympathy may be expressed in many ways. Monsieur Rein hardt has not much heart, but he has a very long purse.” “Wealth is sometimes strangely directed,” the Marquis murmured. “But for the state of terror in which my companion found himself during our journey here,’ Cardinge continued, “I should have given him a hint as to its object. However, that makes very little difference. Monsieur le Marquis, Reinhardt, has lost his three sons during the war and has devoted the remainder of his life to taking care of those who suffered as they suffered but whose lives were spared. Monsieur le Marquis’ three sons died of gas- poisoning. y ‘It is most tered “Monsieur le Marquis’ whole Cardinge proceeded, “goes to the support of these poor fellows. It is not suffieient. He has a small grant from the French Govern ment. Other friends—Madame among them have been privileged to subscribe. I have told him that he will find in you a very gener- ous sympathizer. You have your check with you, probably.” Reinhardt admitted sullenly. “Mons sieur le Mi —— will accept in the cause of charity,’’ Cardinge concluded, “the sum of five ell thousand francs. That sum was fixed by Madame. Monsieur Cardinge,” admitted. war has regrettable,” Reinhardt mut- income,” book He looked Marquis and turned away with a little shiver. Then he looked at Car- dinge and his fingers began to shake. There was something in the atmosphere of the room its somber stillness, the perfume from that bowl o: white roses-——which seemed suddenly terrifying. He drew the check-book from his pocket. The Marquis motioned to Cardinge, who placed pen and ink before his compan- ion. The chec 7 was written, signed, and the ink blotted. Cardinge placed it in an en- velop. * Ad lress it, if you please,” the Marquis begged, ‘“‘to my bank, * Société Géné rale at Grasse. It is for my poor fellows but “IT understand,’ Cardinge inte rrupted. Remember it is EINHARDT opened his lips. first at the “You shall not touch it, sir. an act of justice.” Re m irdt gripped at his “Well,” he exclaimed hars| what you brought me here for ‘if ‘this is what I have to pay for my quittance—] have done it. Get me out of this place. I'm ill.” 4 Cardinge and the Marquis — hands. “T think,” the former said, “the soon take him away the better.” et The Marquis made no reply. He kept his face averted from the man he loathed. Th passed out, across what seemed to Reinhart the nightmare hall, into the nightmare gun dens, where many pairs of burning eye: to be seeking his, where more than one of those strangely garbed men seemed in : maki ing vain efforts to rise to his feet as he passed, where hate flashed from the eyes the white-capped nurses, whispering to thei charges. The porter threw open the gate an they passed out. Reinhardt’s hands ¢: his forehead as they stood in the little strip of dusty road. Opposite was a café. He stumbled toward it. ‘ ‘ ier, — $ arm f this js S Seemed as ped OWNWARDS in ever they glided, from the cris p champagne- like air of the mountains, into the mellow warmth of the sun — 1 valleys below. 4s they left the chateau : covered himself. Hi ilf-way down he lit a¢ “Well,” he said, “vou have made me pa stiff price for my quittance. A little theatrical, widening circles behind Reinhardt te. too. Why couldn't [ have written you q check down on your balcony?” : “You have not enjoyed your visit to the chat eau?” Cardinge inquired politely, ‘LT have hated it like poison, rejoinder. “Precisely. It is for that reason that took you. A few minutes of personal sufer- ing some times hurts more th: ina slight deple tion of one’s banking account “Shall I be able to catch the night train from Nice?” Reinhardt demanded. “It will be for Madame to say,” Carc replied. Madame listened to an cursion into the was the frank I account of their ex- mountains, silent and im- perturbable. Reinhardt. in whom the had arisen again, fortified by luncheon and much old brands to be loqui 1 ious. “Look here,” he announced, “TI don’t want any more of this theatrical business—motor- ing up into the clouds on two wheels and pressed to endow hospiti ils. A pretty good thing that Marquis of yours mi ikes out of I know. Anyway I've paid—half a milli francs, too—money that takes earning in Germany to-day. I want my quittance, and so to Nice.” N ADAME stretched out her fingers ¢ 4 plucked a rose. She sniffed it for a moment with half-closed eyes. “Vou will be relieved, will you not, Otto Reinhardt, when that quittance is in y hands?” “Why not?” he answered bluntly. “We'e all criminals, or were. Why shouldn't I be glad to bury my little indiscretion?’ : “We were all _crigninats in those days vully an excellent , Was disposed Madame admitted, ‘more or less. But we were not spies.’ “You have read my confession!” CX¢ | timed. e “T read every on Madame _ replied coolly. ‘Most of them I set myself sedu- lously to forget. Yours I have never gotten. You accepted the hospitality France to spy against her ‘Tl obeyed orders. “Your day by day lif Madame con- tinued, “was a fraud. Your friendship tot France was a pretens¢ These things hard to forgive.’ ‘It is finished,” he n ittered. “Give me my quittance. Madame shrugged her shoulders slig “You must remember. if you please said, “that that does not come to you a ¢ ight, but rather as an act of grace. When! think of your life in Paris at the time ot } association with us, Lam angry. Day by you were ‘hail fellow wel! met’ with every- body, and at night you wrote your re} the German Government. Then ca war. You did well out of the war, Reinhardt.” “Other people made fortunes beside self,” he answered sullenly. J “Other people,’ Madame remarke:! ° . . h have more ¢ han e ot keeping them. I list here’ (she stretched out her han drew a slip ot paper from a Dox by her § “of seven societies formed in Fran alleviate the very grievous distress cause the war. I have put your name dow! subscriber to each of one million francs Reinhardt lau; ghe 1 hars = “You are mad,” he ex: laimed. “On the contrary,’ , Mail assure “T have given especial care to the! +e : » pay So far as my information goes the pay of these sums wi!! absorb hali of your Jorel™ (Concluded on { 12) jo

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HARPER’S BAzap¥fe THE BLACK VIRGIN E. Phillips Oppenheim’s Story (Concluded from page 110) Tt will leave you still a rich man and without that fear, which must surely sometimes haunt you, of having your back to a wall and the bandage over your eyes.” “T decline,” Reinhardt declared furiously. “That is all there is to say aboutit. You understand? I decline. You can keep my quittance.” Madame smiled. “That,” she said, “is very unwise. The Chef de Siireté at Nice is a particular friend of mine. I have asked him to send me a trusted man from his office—who, by the bye, is now reading in the garden. He imagines that I am only on the track of a robber, but what do you think would give the French pelice more satisfaction than to lay their hands on Otto Reinhardt—the man who spied on them for three years and whose name, in their statute book, is, I believe, ‘Max Milan’?” Reinhardt collapsed. He seemed to have shrunk within his clothes—to have become a smaller and a stricken man. “Don’t mention that name,” he begged feverishly. Madame smiled. “Then sit up and ask yourseif how long it will take you to deposit that money at the Société Générale at Nice.” “T should have to return to Germany,” he groaned, looking down at the carpet. “That would not be advisable,’”” Madame replied. ‘My nephew here will act as your messenger. He is a young man of great dis- cretion. You can have every confidence in him. The moment I hear that he has the money and is on French soil, you shall be welcome to go where you will. Until then you will be my guest.” Again Reinhardt looked down at the carpet and again Madame read his ; “My friend, the Chef de Stireté at aes been e <ceedingly kind to me in this matter” she confided. “Although, if he knew vi you were, nothing that I could do or no would prevent your arrest, he is willing . believe that you are simply a person I Suspect of planning a robbery here. He js content to leave the matter of collecting evidence entirely in my hands, and yet have ~ watched day and night. If you try to enc : Otto Reinhardt, it will be ‘Max Milan’ — they would capture.” The baffled man sat still for several minutes biting his nails, looking sometimes out of the window, sometimes up at the ceiling. Opposite to him, like a figure of fate in her calm and absolute self-possession, sat Madame. Rein- hardt was fond of his money, but he was fonder of his life. “Tf half the amount,” he began— Madame closed her eyes wearily. “Have you ever known me to bargain about money or life or anything that counts?” she asked. “Tt will take time to realize such an out rageous amount,”’ he pointed out, “There is no limit to our hospitality,” she assured him ironically. ; Armand returned on the ninth day ani Otto Reinhardt received his quittance, He burned it out on the piazza, and remained there until the gray ashes had all floated away. Afterwards he took leave of no one. Madame, leaning a little on Cardinge’s shoulder, watched him climb into the auto- mobile and drive off without a backward glance. “The only one of my Virgins, Hugh,” she sighed, “of whom I’ve been really and honestly ashamed.” (The seventh story of this series will appear in the January issue) ADVENTURES IN GIVING (Concluded from page 63) everything she sends delightful luxuries, large or small, but luxuries. Her French teacher will receive the latest perfume from Paris. Another poorish friend will open a package of three handkerchiefs—a huge colored silk one for morning, a filmy linen one for afternoon, and a brilliant chiffon one for evening. She always sends theater and concert tickets, and she has a book of friends and hobbies and whims that is never ending, ranging from cobwebby silk stockings for a country niece to a magnificent load of manure for a garden-loving aunt who has more energy than money. Her gifts are not merely wel- come—they are so welcome as to be shocking, thrilling in their fitness, and that is because she has impeccable taste and patience to study the real needs of her friends. She knows which man friend would like a ship model, or a Sealyham terrier, or the last English volume on fox hunting. She actually gave one hand- some bachelor of her inner circle a Ford car last Christmas, so that he could come and go from her place as he liked! A case of cham- pagne goes this year to an old man who will worship her forever after, and a bottle of Napoleon brandy to another. Pewter to- bacco jars from London, golf sticks, cigaret cases, handkerchiefs forever—these are all on her lists for men. Her servants do not receive gold pieces only—they receive things that give them real joy. She never insults her country friends by sending them makeshift things, she gives the newest and smartest thing, or the oldest and rarest, in every case Christmas should be an annually increasing joy, a mounting height of privileges, from the days when we are youngsters and have it created for us until we are old enough to create it for other people. Rose Playfair. THE THEORY OF ELIMINATION IN DRESS Marie Lyons’ Article (Concluded from page So) still attain distinction. That is possible. But what is more likely is that she has never given a fair trial to these styles that she says are impossible for her. She doesn’t know just how to achieve this effect and she goes along the lines she has always followed, or compromises and fails. Perhaps she thinks it is all a matter of a dress and a hat, when, in reality, it is much more a matter of a glove and a shoe—more a matter of what she leaves off than of what she puts on. Many more women could be smart if they would study and sincerely and courageously (for it takes courage) put into practice the best advice on the subject of dress that is obtainable. Study the two women on pages eighty-two and eighty-three. One is a compromise. She is not badly dressed. She has gone a long way on the road to authentic chic. But she hasn’t gone far enough. She hasn’t tried wearing her hair straight, showing her ears. Following its usual custom, Harper's Bazar nex! month will issue its Palm Beach Number. She hasn’t, perhaps, reduced sufficiently to wear a tube frock. She hasn’t worn an Ut trimmed masculine felt hat. She hasnt if she wouldn’t look better without, that jeweled bandeau in the evening than with it She has a weakness for little fancy gloves and many-strapped shoes. She has a pair ot lovely long earrings that she adores and sh can’t bear to go out without them; they re good in themselves, so why shouldn't sté wear them? All along the line she is wer She yields to this temptation and that, bd to apply in its full significance the principle elimination. The chic of to-day is attaine” only by sacrifice—and more sacrifice, nyo of little predilections, old and tnite i ingrained prejudices; and finally, by hant courage to do the one daring, triump! et thing that no one else would dare—and om is the courage that comes only from supr self-confidence.

seen / The very smartest costumes that the very smartest women are to take South with them will be shown in fascinating detatl.

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for DECEMBER 1924 THE MIRROR BEAUTIFUL brings an individual charm to your dresser Willing to mA AE i T suspect IS content ’ evidence have you to escape, lan’ whom thougits, Nice, has > Matter,” il minutes, out of the > Opposite calm and ne. Rein- it he was 0 bargain t counts? La Reine Comb, Brush and Mirror, $64.50 Gloria = Comb, Brush ality,” she and Mirror, $40.00 ‘h an out day and ance. He remained all floated \ of no one Cardinge’s the auto- backward fugh,” she eally and G Princess Pat Comb, Brush and Mirror, $53.00 Monte Cristo Comb, Brush and Mirror, $50.00 one hand Ford car me and go e of cham n who will bottle of ewter to- ks, cigaret are all on not receive Beautiful Mirrors that in their gleam- La Tosca with its long, slender handle hings that : ; sounds a new note in Dresser Silver. See tee ing depths reflect more than an image ; es “th ; - La Reime is such a pattern as any queen * aan =~ personality! New designs in might cherish! Every cast Dresser Services by International Gloria will delight her who favors beauty increasing ‘ ‘ : : a ate as s, from the Sterling await your viewing at your that’s elaborate. ~ peed jeweler’s. Ask him to show them to Princess Pat, “English” to its very tip, will » Plaviei ; charm the woman who likes smart sim- je Ployfat you or write us for complete booklet plicity. with prices. International Silver Com- pany, Dept. 6-82, Meriden, Conn. Monte Cristo— A man’s set that follows beautiful and simple lines. ION hasn't seen thout that an with it ncy love is a pair ot es and sh m; they re yuldn’t she ie is weak that, fails principle ol js attained ce, sacrifice ok INTERNATIONAL STERLING —and that ao DRESSER SERVICES WROUGHT FROM SOLID SILVER. PLINTERNATIONAL SILVER CO.3 ciently t0 : , PM oo B } gto orm an un / - A 1b G )

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114 Tee BABANI PERFUMES | | Chosen in. Paris N/ ELIZABETH ARDEN. ‘The smartest perfumes of Paris!’’ Paris herself declared, and now also the smartest perfumes of London and America. A gif which offers subtle faery toa woman’s taste, and adds immeasurably to her chic and charm. ‘ (Ke These are the pertumes which Elizabeth Arden has chosen for her distinguished clientele and for every woman who enjoys the indefinable pleasure of an exquisite fragrance. Without doubt, the delightful perfumes of Babani add to a woman's personal charm. And this will make every woman enjoy your gift of Babani Perfume as long as a drop of the lovely fra- grance remains. Elizabeth Arden describes the perfumes of Babani in this way: Ambre de Delhi is stately, magnificent; Afghani is daring, bril- liant; Sousouki is delicate; Chypre is smart, distingué. The newest is Giardini, as exotic as gardenias. And so on, Ligéia, Ming, Jasmin—each lovely, each subtle. Two or more Babani Perfumes blend to make fragrances quite new and individual, providing the user with a personal formula. Babani Pertumes are on sale with Elizabeth Arden’s Venetian Toilet Preparations at the Salons of Elizabeth Arden—at the big Fifth Avenue stores—-and at smart shops everywhere. Every Babani fragrance comes in several sizes of decorative bottles, from $2.75 up. rated in black design. $12.50 Babani Coffret of black and gold, contain ing a box of powder and eight differen ! Babani Perfumes—one for every mood | $24. These perfumes may be blended t A gold box, satin lined, containing a gold bottle of Babani’s Ambre, an Arden vanity with rouge and powaer, and Arden Lip QARA Perfumes of Paris imported by Elizabeth Arden DE CAMERON, Inc., 681 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK Exclusive Agent for Babani in the U. § grances . mes) | Babani’s CAypre in a gold bottle, hand deco- t ! ) make an endless variety of exquisite fra- HARPER’S BAza4p THE GREAT PANDOLFQO William J. Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 61) yet firmly chivvied away before lunch on Monday. They could bring with them wives, husbands, trainers, and other atten- dants. The house was large, with plenty of roaring space, so that if a second lion entering any apartment found the first occupant a bore (in the words of the poet) he could go forth and roar somewhere else to his perfect satisfaction. Lady Demeter, a _ fearless Daniel, moved among them tactfully. She had the gift of reconciling the all but ir- reconcilable. At Hinsted Park were con- tracted the most unlikely friendships and the least imaginable of matrimonial alliances. Now and then a timid little white-haired man would be seen creeping about, and the lions would ask one another who he was and what the deuce he did, and, by dint of patient inquiry would eventually discover he was Lord Demeter. Afterwards they recognized him as the man who, late at night, apatheti- cally sought to know whether they would have brandy or whisky with their soda. He was dreadfully afraid of his wife's lions. She was a burly, high-complexioned woman of capacious mind and bosom; a worthy lady, very bountiful and efficient; she sat, heavily, as chairwoman on many committees. She would give any new lion ten minutes at Hinsted and he would eat out of her hand. N THE hall or outer den, a stately place staircased and ga!leried, did two lions meet that Saturday afternoon. They were the first arrivals, and they had motored down ona day of summer drought, happening to pass and repass each other angrily, so that their throats were filled with mutual dust and their hearts with mutual dislike, especially when they arrived almost simultaneously at the same destination. One was Spencer Babington. He greeted his hostess with a prim “How d’ye do, Clara?” Said the other: ‘‘My dear lady, what a delight to see you in this perfect setting.” Then Lady Demeter: “I wonder whether you two know each other—” “We've seen a great deal of each other on the road. All the way from the Marble Arch,” answered Babington. ““T got the best of you,” cried his roa‘ rival with a great laugh. “My chauffeur’s the most marvelous driver in Europe.” Babington’s lips curled into the withered smile of the professional diplomatist. “‘Why not in the world?” “Why not? Nodoubt heis. If I thought he wasn’t, I’d sack him. I'll tell you about him one of these days.” “You can’t until you’re properly intro- duced,” laughed Lady Demeter. ‘Sir Spencer Babington—Sir Victor Pandolfo.” “Tf I had known it was you,” said Pandolfo, “T’d have—” he paused. “\Vhat—?” Babington inquired. “T’d have gone twice as fast, so that you wouldn’t have been inconvenienced. She can do a hundred miles an hour as easily as twenty.” Babington’s manner was of the coldest. “Really?” said he. “Just a cheap American car. I took her to pieces. Fitted her up with all sorts of con- trivances of my own of which no one has got the secret yet. Anexperiment you see. Andas I tell you, she’s a wonder. A bird on wheels.” “At any rate, after your experiences, you must both be very thirsty,” said Lady Demeter, moving to the tea table. ‘Tea, Sir Spencer?” “Tf you please.” “Sir Victor?” “May I take advantage of the promise of more cooling streams which I see over yonder?” Pandolfo waved a hand to a table against the wall set with gleaming silver and glass and crystal jugs and ice and decanters. The lady smiled hospitably. half-way: He turned “Perhaps Sir Spencer will change his mind?” “Thanks, no. Tea is more refreshing. One lump, dear Clara. A thousand thanks.” “Your lump doesn’t clink like this, my dear fellow,”’ said Pandolfo, coming forward with a great tumbler glad with the music of ice. “This is good, Lady Demeter. The con- cocter is almost a genius; but not quite. I'll give you a secret that will make him one. A dash—a mere dash of Fernet Branca.” “What is that? Lady Demeter. “Tf Sir Victor will excuse ; Babington interjected, “it’s t} ious liquid—a kind of bitter—that only the perverted taste of modern Italy could have invented. It ties the tongue into knots and destroys the coat of the stomach.” sie “On the contrary, my dear fellow I titillates the healthy tongue Bs the healthy stomach. It’s one of Italy's priceless boons to mankind—mother of im. mortal boons that she is. Besides, you take it in drops, not in jorums like tea.”’” I don’t know it,” laughed Y saying so,” le Most obnox- and stiaulates ADY DEMETER glanced anxiously t the clock. There were. stil] twenty minutes before the train guests could ym and no one else was expected by motor Never had she entertained two new lions more mutually antipathetic. She had hoped for the mixture of other elements. What thought she, could be common ground for’a famous inventor and a diplomatist not with- out celebrity? Furthermore, for a spacious creature of wide gesture and proclamation and a dry, thin-lipped apostle of secrecy? She talked rather wildly of the house and its artistic treasures. There was that Sassofer. rato, for instance. Demeter. poor dear, had been persuaded to buy it, unframed and rolled up, by a Russian Grand Duke in whose family palace it had hung for a couple of centuries. But it was too pretty pretty for her taste. ; Babington crossed the hall, fingering the ribbon of his tortoise-shell-rimmed monocle, and examined the picture. “A very fine example, indeed, with all the artist’s exquisite finish. I don't hold with the people who profess to despise the later Eclectics. They carried on the torch, the sacred torch of Raphael. I have a Sassofer- rato in my own little collection—but, I’m afraid, of doubtful authenticity.” He turned, holding out the never-used eye-glass. “If Demeter should like to part with it—well, there’s a congenial home for it in Eaton Square.” “If it depended on me, my dear man, you could tuck it under your arm and walk away with it now,” said Lady Demeter, with a laugh. ‘But you’ve got to reckon with my money-thirsty husband.” N EANWHILE Victor Pandolfo, mighty . glass beaker still in hand, had inspected the picture. He strolled back to the tea- table. “Splendid. _Sassoferrato didn’t _ reach achievement—who of us does? But he had the one and only idea. The vast conception alone and all by itself—that’s the sea in which infinite geniuses have perished impotently. The maze of detail leading to some vague purpose—millions of eager but blind souls have been lost and starved in it. It’s the Great Thing ahead, with the details at com- mand that matters. The Divine Gift of Combination—” his fingers flickered for a moment on his bbow—“ our friend Sassoferrato just misses it. Raphael had it. Sir Isaac Newton, Harvey, Pasteur, the chap—the simple sort of fool, just like you and me’— he bowed to Babington—‘who built the Parthenon, all had it. . Anyhow, I'm glad you like the Eclectics. They were poor devils bursting to deliver a message, and no medium at their command but a wornout formula. So I love ’em. I'd like to see your Sassoferrato. On the other hand, | preter their successors, the Naturalisti—Caravaggio —he’s trying to do things in a new way but he’s one of the fellows that got over whelmed in his own waves—” ‘ ; “Pardon me,” said Babington, “I've maé a study of the post-Raphaelites— As a matter of fact I’ve published two little books on the subject. . . hog , ne “Read ‘em. Read ’em. Read ’em, Pandolfo, with a smile and an airy wave 0! his hand. a “Well, my dear sir,’ said Babington, “Je must see that I’m not quite at one with you “But how good! How splendid: : a Pandolfo, his arms wide apart—his Meee still clutching his empty glass _ ; eee Demeter, you're like the Lady of the Enchante Continued on page 116) otis Where are you going this winter? A pertinent question just now, for your plans should be made well in advance In furnishing you with any sort of information about hotels, resorts, railroad and steamship lines, the Travel Bazar Write Service of Harper's genuine assistance. ] can Miss really Adeline Snapp. give yout lo LON BOS PAL

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"laughed ving so,” t obnox- only the uld have nots and llow. It ‘itnulates f Italy's T of im- you take ously at twenty d arrive: r. Never mS more oped for What, ind for’a not with- spacious ation and cy? She and tts Sassofer- lear, had med and in whose ouple of retty for ering the monoc le, th all the 1old with the later orch, the Sassofer- -but, I'm le turned, lass. “If it—well, in Eaton man, you ralk away with a with my , mighty inspected the tea- "t reach ne had the onception 1 in which npotently. me vague lind souls It’s the Is at com- » Gift of red for a issoferrato Sir Isaac chap—the ind me”— built the vhow, I'm were poor re, and no worn-out o see your |, I prefer “aravaggio lew way got over I've mad As a ittle books em,” said wave ol hls yton, “you ith you— for DECEMBER 1924 at Gifts are more Enchanting than ELIZABETH « ARDEN’S? ee) They breathe an air of luxury, of beauty and exquisite femininity, which will endear them to every woman on your Christmas list. jays ELIZABETH ARDEN These bothers of Christmas, which Mr. George describes so amusingly, are really very serious. Parties, shopping, guests, servants, children, rela- tives, all join hands to make a jolly but also a busy problem. I entreat you, therefore, to take the most faithful care of your skin during this hurried sea- son. Come frequently to my Salon for restful Treatments, and do not neglect to give yourself daily Treatments at home. And let me lighten your burdens by offering these suggestions for your Christmas list: For your favorite debutante, a dewy corsage, with a pretty Compact tucked in amongst the posies, the Double O-Boy Compact, the Treasurette, or the Carmo, smart very thin vanities, containing rouge and powder of exquisite quality. $2.50, $4, $1.25. To all your women friends, give a course of won- derful Arden Treatments. Elizabeth Arden will send an exquisite card announcing this gift. The Treatments may be arranged for at any Arden Salon. ‘x Treatments for $25. For your favorite sister-in-law, or someone whom you Must propitiate with a truly magnificent gift, Elizabeth Arden suggests her Beauty Box. This is a smart travel case of black cobra leather, packed with 22 Venetian Toilet Preparations and other accessories. $60. Other Arden Beauty Boxes in various sizes, $35, $18, $14, $3.85. For your favorite hostess, Babani Perfumes, the smart- est perfumes of Paris, imported by Elizabeth Arden. Babani's Sousouki is delicate. His Chypre is distingué. Blended, these two make an exquisite third perfume quite different and lovely. Babani’s Ambre and Ligéia are blended to make Elizabeth Arden’s own fragrance. Babani Perfumes in decorative bottles, from $2.75 up. For your schoolmate, Elizabeth Arden’s exquisite Poudre d’ Illusion, in a satin-lined box that makes it a delectable gift of trifling cost. In four shades, Illusion (a natural peach blend), Rachel, Ocre, and uu ‘hite, $3. For the woman who watches her weight, the perfect thought is Elizabeth Arden’s Records, Exercises for Health and Beauty, created especially for women. Complete set, $12. For nieces and neighbors and others who must be re- membered, Venetian Bath Salts, fine perfumed Salts in handsome glass jars, tied with gay satin bows. $1.75, $3, $5. In 16 lb. can, $10. Three Perfumes: Rose, Nirvana, Russian Pine. of ° ae) ° ° = The Arden Venetian Toilet Preparations and Babani Perfumes are on sale at smart shops everywhere Postage paid on mail orders exceeding Ten Dollars ELIZABETH ARDEN NEW YORK, 673 FIFTH AVENUE LONDON: 25 Old Bond Street BOSTON: 192 Boylston Street ALM BEACH: Beaux Arts Bldg. WASHINGTON: 1147 Connecticut Ave. SAN FRANCISCO: 233 Grant Avenue LOS ANGELES: 600 West 7th Street ATLANTIC CITY: Ritz-Carlton Block PARIS: 2 rue de la Paix DETROIT: 318 Book Building CANNES: Hotel Royal AT CHRISTMAS TIME HRISTMAS is the saddest time of the year when one has passed sixteen. I recognize of course that woman benefits by Christmas; some receive ropes of pearls, others bunches of violets. But how she pays! If she has no children, all that she suffers is a shuttered city with- out a store window into which to gaze. But if she has children, I am sorry for her. I quote a mother on this subject: **Christmas ? Oh, I love Christ- mas. I’ve bought Jimmie a camera, Adela a doll’s workbox, and Jack a gramophone. I've had my _ shoes trodden on so often that I don’t mind. Also I've discovered that Jack’s uncle, has bought him a gramophone; so I shall have to change it foracamera. . . no, I'm buying Jimmie a camera, so I can’t buy Jack a camera. I can’t think what to give my husband. He gives me a cheque, the coward. Perhaps I'd better give him a cheque. I've explained to the cook that she can’t spend Christmas with the old folk at home. I've allowed the house- maid to have her young man in for the Christmas dinner, and now the parlourmaid wants to have her young man in for dinner. Jimmie has been given some money by a fool, and has bought a trumpet. He's practising now. My frock’s a com- plete failure and has gone back to be altered. My husband has asked me to think of a nice present for his old nurse. The children hold secret meetings to decide what to give me and borrow money from me with which to buy it. I've asked my hus- band to address the Christmas cards; thereupon pressure of work has de- tained him at the office, so I've ad- dressed them. A few will go astray, and my husband will explain that it’s my fault. I shall take the chil- dren to a matinee. I shall take them to the Zoo. They will catch colds, except those who have indigestion, except also those who have both in- digestion and colds. I shall give them medicine and they will dis- like me for keeping them in bed. My husband will say that I fuss, and that if he had the bringing up of those children but he will make no attempt to bring up those children. As for me I’m already liv- ing on phenacetin. I find it does my head good.”’ The curse of Eve is certainly Christmas. Everything depends up- on her, and when all is done she is told that it is a pity that there weren't more paper hats. Ah, still, there’s turkey . creamed, and we are told that Christmas comes but once a year: let us end upon this cheerful note. —W. L. GEORGE

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Muirfield— Peck & Peck’s newest woolen suit Peck & Peck Christmas Gifts Murerterp —an exclusive Peck & Peck creation. This beautiful woolen suit in many beautiful tones has just arrived from Scotland. Made of the finest Scotch wool, the sweater may be had in either the pull-over or coat fashion. The skirt of the same wool is offered in a beautiful har- monizing tone. Some of the color combinations are gray and brick—blue heather with blue— camel and brown — different tones of green and countless others. Pull-over sweater $18.00. Coat model $25.00. Skirt $25.00. The silk and wool stockings shown are offered to match the Muirfield suit. Beautiful contrast- ing checks $4.00 per pair. The silk stockings illustrated are Peck & Peck’s well known Princess stockings. Sheer chiffon weight. In all the newest fall and winter shades. Now made with the new French picot edge. Plain $3.00. Open clocks $3.50. Mail orders given careful and prompt attention. Specify size and color desired. Enclose check or please give references. s . * We shall gladly send you a notice of the arrival of Peck & Peck’s Representative in your city. He will arrive shortly to exhibit Peck & Peck’'s newest importations and exclusive specialties. FIFTH AVENUE at 42nd Street WALL STREET at Number 34 FIFTH at AVENUE 471h Street 48 & 40 MICHIGAN AVENUE SOUTH, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS SOUTHAMPTON ° NEWPORT . PALM BEACH . MIAMI FRENCH LICK SPRINGS THE GREAT PANDOLFQO William J. HARPER’S BAZAR Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 114) Castle. You’ve brought two knights to- gether—thrown down your’ glove—your Sassoferrato picture—and we're going to hack each other to pieces about it.” The hall door was thrown open and the butler entered heralding vague forms of men and women. Lady Demeter rose and sailed forth in welcome. Pandolfo hooked Babing- ton’s arm and swept him away into a far corner of the hall, under the lee of the stately staircase. “My dear fellow,” said he, “in your books you’re as right as rain. As right as any professional beggar of questions can be. But there’s such a thing as universality. I’ve got an Andrea Vaccaro—one of the Natu- ralisti—” “I’m aware of him,” said Babington. “Well, come and see it. If it explodes all your ideas, I'll give it to you.” His compelling good nature was irresistible. Babington allowed himself to be beguiled. “T contess,” said he, “that to me it’s a surprise—a most agreeable surprise—that a man, whose name is associated with mechanical and utilitarian things, should have—well, practically the same hobby as myself.” “Bless your heart,’’ cried Pandolfo, “I’ve a million hobbies. Now, I should really like you to see my Andrea Vaccaro. Name any day. Whenever you like. Come and lunch. I'll show you lots of things.” Lady Demeter, dispensing tea to her guests, cast an eye into the far corner where the two lions were now conversing with in- dubitable amiability, and inwardly con- gratulated herself on her unfailing tact * TOwaARpD the end of the dressing-hour, she entered the room of Paula Field, who had arrived late, and embraced her fondly. ““My dear, with all this menagerie on my hands I haven’t had a moment for a word with you. It’s too sweet of you to come down and help me.” “With the poor lion who hasn’t got a Christian? I hope I'll do.” Paula laughed, teasing and adorable, and glanced for a second into the pier glass before which she stood. It reflected a tall, delicately made woman, with wavy brown hair on a dainty head and a humorous smile behind blue, almost violet eyes; a quality of style, in the sense of its application to a poem or a picture. A shimmering silver dress conveyed the impression of great stateliness. Lady Demeter followed the glance. “€ Always perfection,” she sighed admiringly. She knew that she herself was the Dress- maker’s Despair. Paula chose to be rueful. ‘You've seen it before, Clara, and you'll see it again, Still, it is rather nice, isn’t it? Well, what about the man? What's his name? Rudolfo?” “Pandolfo. Sir Victor Pandolfo. You must have heard of him.’ Lady Demeter’s voice grew plaintive. Paula shook her head. “Sorry, dear.” “He’s the greatest inventor of modern times and he’s going to take you in to dinner. You see it was this way—” Hastily she explained her embarrassing situation. Only yesterday had Pandolfo proposed himself, over the telephone, for this week-end. She had invited him for the next one together with a scientific crowd, half the Royal Society, all bulging with brains and other funny things like that, and she thought he would interest them and wake them up a bit. But he wasn’t free. So, flustered, at the end of the telephone, she had to tell him to come down, And there he was, putting out the whole of her carefully selected party. Quite out of the picture, as she had _ told Paula. Why. that very afternoon, she had thought he was going to eat up poor Spencer Babington. “Oh, he’s here, is he?” said Paula, with a little grimace. ADY DEMETER nodded. Yes. Spencer 4 and George Brendon, the poet, and Miss Dragma Winthorne who wrote the improper books, and the Bishop of Dedminster (‘‘ who, I presume, reads them,” Paula interjected), and the President of the Board of Trade and the Paraguayan Minister and a charming American singer. All delightful people. And as far as Paula could gather, into this perfect den of leonine soul-mates had leaped the disconcerting Pandolfo. “T had to get another woman, of course. And you were the only one IL could think of who could tackle him. And, Paula dear, I knew you wouldn’t mind.” “Mind?” laughed Paula. “Don’t be silly. ) there's a chance of escaping from my little flat under the shadow of Harrod’s stores and coming here, I throw every bit of pride out of the window and myself out of the door into the first taxi.”’ Lady Demeter drew a deep and buxom breadth. “You're always such a dear, Paula But I did owe you some avology.” “Tell me more about the man Pandolfo.” Lady Demeter became suddenly ayare os the poverty of her information. She had “te constantly running up against him, in ail pera of places, during the season. He aI a vented something during the war—an appli | tion of the tank system to submarines—sh, was not quite certain. Lady Demeter lived in a golden haze of general misinformation Anyhow they had given him a K. B. E. And he was an authority on wireless telegraphy Also, there was something about a new metal that could supersede steel. As far as ie knew it was the Duchess—that dear scatter. brained Lavinia—who had really set him going socially. And then the Daily—she snapped a finger’s invitation to memory—the Daily—anyhow one of the Daily Horrors had begun to boom him—and so : “And so, what couid I do, my dear? [hag to ask the man down.” . QUIPPED with this vague account of he predestined dinner-partner, Paula Fi a little later, entered the already humm drawing-room. With most of the house§ party she was acquainted. Smiles andl homage greeted her, as they have ever greeted t a woman with the gift of beauty and gracious- ness, | Spencer Babington, spying her, gripped the ribbon of his eye-glass and crossing the room came up to her in his dignified way. “A delightful surprise. Lady Demeter § never told me I should meet you.” ‘ “Well, I'm here anyhow. You didn't tell} me yesterday you were coming.” “ My mind, as you know. was occupied with E mattecs far more important.” { “All the same, you seem to be glad to see§ me, and it’s very nice of you. 1 wonder you don’t hate the sight of me.” . “You little know me,” said he. She was about to reply, when just behind her a voice, not unpleasant in its resonance, rose above the polite din. “My dear Bishop—the Comacine masters— I don’t believe in ’em. One of the myths of } the Middle Ages. Your Cathedral was con- ceived by an Englishman inspired direct )y the Almighty. Never an Italian had any thing to do with it.” She turned and beheld a man smiling sweeping, with free gesture, bishops an Comacine Masters and every one who dis agreed with him off the face of the earth. Sh beheld him as an arresting personality; olive skinned; dark and luminously eyed; rugged and pronounced of feature: with a high fore head from which swept back thick bronze hair scrupulously trimmed according to the day’s fashion. His only conscious concession to personal idiosyncrasy was the low shirt collar revealing a thick and powerful throat He might have been a singer. His strong hands and nervous fingers were eloquent in gesture Instinctively she asked—although she guessed the answer as soon as the words had died from her lips: “Who on earth’s that?”’ “Sir Victor Pandolfo. I’ve been with him most of the afternoon. Quite an interesting man.” ND then came Lady Demeter with a swoop tearing Pandolfo from the Bishop and introducing him to Paula. After a word or two she took off Babington. The two were left alone. Paula was about to make one ot the commonplace openings of conversatl 1 when she became conscious of his eyes fixed upon her. Then of an embarrassed span ol silence. At last she broke it and said with lame challenge: “ ell?” “You're the most beautiful woman I have ever seen,”’ said he. j She flushed to her hair at the suddenness o the crude tribute. Felt, ever so little afra also urged by swift instinct of woman on defensive to ask Clara to find her another dinner partner. At once, however, civilized habit gripped her. She laughed. ene “Your experience must be very limited. ‘““By no means,” said he. ‘“‘It’s as vast the sun which shines on the just_and the un- just, or the plain and the beautiful. I have made observations in all the four quarters ¢! the earth.” ay ‘Doubtless, the same observation, > Paula. ; He bowed. ‘You have wit. But let E pass. I’m afraid I’ve none. I’m a slave 0! accuracy. If 1 weren’t accurate, the seve? seas would be paved with the bones of Bris sailors. You think I paid you an idle an¢ unmannerly compliment.” ; “The formula’s yours,” she answered, 1 gaining the weapon of her dignity. ; “T beseech you not to believe it. Wh should I pay women idle com] “Tt’s the foolish way ot said Paula. ge aaees “But good God alive, dear lacy, I’m nota, ordinary man. What do yo take me ‘0! (Continued on page 119) jor ] i

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118 —" Ld ry Kaskel & Kaskel ecommend Christmas Shopping from this book We have put many gifts for men into a book, beautifully and accurately pictured in color. One has implicit con- fidence in these gift-sugges- tions, since they touch only on men’s haberdashery of the mostexclusive and correctsort. We cordially invite you to apply for this Christmas book. It will surely solve the prob- lem of the masculine chapter of your Christmas list. Neckwear, hosiery, mufflers of silk or wool, dressing gowns, and many other things fora man—on all of which Kaskel & Kaskel have spe- cialized for over fifty-seven years. The ideal way to make a selection is to visit either our New York or Chicago store, but if this is impos- sible, we shall be pleased to send you this book, if you will send us your name and address. [Established 1867 NEW YORK: 567 Fifth Av. at 46th St. CHICAGO: 304 Michigan Av., South Palm Beach French Lick Bre, ge , = Dressing Gowns $25 to $175 Mufflers of Silk or W ool— $6.50 to $30. Embroidery additional. Neckwear $2.50 10 $6.00 each all gl = o~ HARPER’S DP AZAR THE GREAT PANDOLFQO William Jf. Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 116) “For the man,” said Paula, noticing the general surge toward the door, ‘who is ticked off totake me into dinner. Let us go.” She laid a couple of fingers in the crook of his arm. “I hope we sha’n’t quarrel too violently.” ‘People like you and me can’t quarrel. It’s a psychological impossibility. They took their places in the paired pro- —. “Wh “The t s for the little folk,”’ said he; ‘“‘we’re too big.” And so it went on during the conventional intervals of the stately meal. Up to now Paula, a childhood friend of Clara Demeter and a widow of recently reduced fortune, had found a peculiar esthetic enjoyment, during her visits to Hinsted, in the setting of the old seignorial dining-room. She relived her life passed among such surroundings. She lovea the old oak panelings; the majestic Sir Joshuas and Raeburns in their proud gilt frames; the gleam of statuary in the recess of the bay window; the perfect table into which heavy silver and exquisite glass cast their deep reflections as into a pool; the diamonds and pearls of choicely arrayed women set off, each one, between the dead black and white of men; the panorama of keen human faces; even the mystery of the gray liveried serving men who floated like ministering and im- peccable ghosts around the table. And she loved the luxury of the Sévres dinner-service and the frothing and curling and bubbling of champagne in her glass. It was her dainty delight to have this same glass replenished a little finger’s breadth full every time the golden-necked bottle appeared over her shoulder in the white gloved hand of the ghostly serving-man. UT, to-night, for the most part, her usual enjoyment of things loved and lost, was, as it were, wiped out by a fascinating hatred of her overwhelming partner. Over and over again she turned to the poet on her right, only to listen blankly to his divagations on golf and Monte Carlo systems and the only polish for brown boots and such other topics as form the staple conversation of modern self-respecting poets, while she caught with the back of a maddeningly jealous ear the sonorous voice of Pandolfo engaged in juicy talk with his left-hand neighbor, the Bishop’s wife. She was angry with herself for re- turning to him with freshly stimulated interest. He pointed to an unfastened diamond be m ‘tte in her corsage. You'll lose that,” said he; “let me see it.” She put it in his hand. “Yes. The sort of fastening you see on Japanese jewelry in a Christmas cracker. The world is divided into fools, damn fools and insurance com- panies. They actually insure a thing like that. Do you want to lose it?” “Tt’s my most precious possession.’ “Then I'll contrive a hinge, pin, and catch for you. It'll put me on the track of a modification of my new metal for delicate purposes. They’ve been carrying on with this sort of foolery since the days of ancient Knossos. I'll send you a model next week [If you like it, I'll fit itonto your brooch.’ With deft strong fingers he straightened the platinum pin and twisted the catch. “This will last for the time being.” HE thanked him, compelled to admiration of his exquisite touch. A jeweler would have done the same work with patient pliers. Civility bade her remark: “You mentioned your new metal, Sir Vi ic tor?” “It’s going to revolutionize the world,” said he. “It will be brighter than burnished silver, untarnishable like platinum, which anyway looks like tin, harder than diamond, unbreakable; a sixteen-inch gun made of it will go on for ever without rerifling, and the seamstress’s finest needle will never blunt or nap.” “What is it called?” ‘Ah, there I’m waiting for an inspiration. \lready you see I’m your humble servant for life; but give me a name and I'll be your devoted slave for eternity. Have you ever met an inventor before?” he asked suddenly. “Not to my knowledge.” “Well, now you've met one, what do you think of them?” ‘“‘T should say they were quite well meaning folk,” replied Paula. He laughed. “Also a bit mad, eh? Well, you can’t live in a perpetual romance and retain the stately equilibrium of Babington over there. An inventor is a vagabond not only on the high roads of mankind's aspira- tion, but through the bye-ways of human needs and infirmities over meadows of pleasantness.”’ “Interesting, yes,’ she smiled, “but romantic?” “When, in the sanctity of y you wash your hair—tell m¢ curiosity—how do you dry it?” “If you want to know,” shi “my maid connects a little mac ordinary electric plug in the wal thing whirs hot air round my don’ t ask me to explain—” : “Mw ‘hat’s the name of your little machine?’ ‘The the oh, something ‘ Perfecto.” sim wesley coi Poster a Wiet c than to have the privilege of drying your be autiful hair?” She fell down, with a laugh, from her high estate. ' “No? Really? How funny that shouid have invented it. What put suc concession to woman’s vanily into head?” ; “T escaped from hideous factories wher Moloch commanded that dreadful reeking things should be made dry, dry, dry in ve seconds, and flew into a sylvan glade, and threw myself down on a mossy bank by the side of a stream. And water nymphs crept shyly around me. And [I said: ‘You are very comely of feature and shapely of form; but your long wet straight hair is decidedly unbecoming.’ And one of them replied: ‘Tell us how to dry it quickly, for it gives us such a headache to sit in the sun.’ [ had a bright idea and invited them to Moloch’s factory where they could get as dry as Bombay ducks. The usual feminine answer: ‘My dear, I’ve nothing to wear.’ So, being a good-natured fellow, I said: ‘If you won't go to Moloch, Moloch shall come to you.’ And there, my dear. lady, you have the romance in a nutshell.’ She laughed. ‘‘You're a bit of a poet, too. “A bit? A complete one. A maker of things out of dreams. Could you have a better definition?” ““Heaps,”’ replied Paula, who was not to be browbeaten. “To-morrow, then, I'll challenge you. Definitions are important. The night brings counsel.” Again their respective neighbors claimed them. She turned to her professional poet The impudence of the man to suggest that she should stay awake all night in order to equip herself with argument against him! She put the question to the poet Brendon who talked in vague discomfort. He was fresh faced, young, British and rather shy; was conscious that the beautiful lady whose name he had not caught, because, in abstraction she had turned her name card maddeningly upside down, took little or no interest in him. He professed himself, ingenuously, to be a very humble person. Whereupon Paula, quick to react, realized her unkind preoccupation and spread her graciousness over him to the end of the dinner. The ladies rose; Pandolfo swung back her chair. “You'll get used to me in time,” he said, with a smile in his bright eye. ‘L hope not,” she replied i ironically. I retire ment, 1 ask out of said, amused, hine with an l, and some. head, Oh, you ha your AULA could only exchange a few hurried _, Words with her much engi iged hostess. ‘Am I off duty, ¢ ‘lara?’ : “What a question!” “T’ve really been good, and, please, may I play for an hour or two? I assure you he'll be all right. _He’s quite capable of looking after himself.’ Again Lady Demeter proclaimed her a dear. She had set him going. Not that he needed much winding up, after all. Ms Winterton = Bishop’s wife) was enchanted with him. Paula could go and play witha free conscience and the meed of her gratitude So, when the men came in, and for the rest of the evening, Paula maneuvered avoidance of the overpowering and obviously pursuing man, until she took refuge with Spencer Babington outside, in a corner of the summer scented terrace. . The next morning, however, Pandolfo found her alone with a book, in the Italian Garden. He approached her, hat in hand. ‘Dear lady, in what have 1 offended?” She looked up coolly from her page. don’t know Ww hat you mean. Said he: “I was dying to talk to you last night. What are the snatches of dinner conversation? A thimbleful of water to 4 parched man. And you gave me no chance W as it fair?” “Why should I give you a chance, call it?” making the obvious retort feminine He sat down, with something of a flours), on the garden seat, by her side. “Because I’m worth it. I really Nobody but I would have dared to tell you~ and by you—I mean you—Paula Field— forgive my using your Christian name. which I’ve made it my business to learn —but Paula Field signifies a vital being, whereas a Field is a polite abstraction—oh, yes le (Continued on page I as you am. jor

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a eetisanteaaty alin a for Chrishnas fs that are appreciated amas BeltGer TRUNKS2"d BAGS Belber Fitted Suitcase—just the gift that ap- peals to women who love pretty, practical things. Contains an ex- quisite toilet set in ivory, shell or amber. Remov- able tray. A splendid gift for men who travel is this handsome Belber Cowhide Suitcase. It is unusually conve- nient to pack. Made in a va- riety of leathers. fect gift, and one that has a year-round util- ity. Equipped with every con- venience for traveling and for use as an extra closet at home. Men like this Belber Mahog- any Cowhide Kit Bag. Roomy, du- rable and rich with the quiet good taste that appeals so strongly to a man. Other styles in a wide range of prices. Stores featuring the attractive Belber Specials for Christmas will show you these and other practical, beautiful Belber Gifts. The name Belber is your guaranty of the finest quality and the most reasonable prices. Write for booklet showing Belber styles. THE BELBER TRUNK & BAG COMPANY Philadelphia, Penna. World’s largest manufacturer of fine traveling goods THE GREAT PANDOLFQ J. Locke’s (Continued from page 118) William held up a checking hand, and smiled lumi- nously—-‘‘you need not fear. In addressing you, I shall always be abstractly polite. In thinking of you, or alluding to you, I defy you to forbid my concrete conception of you. Miss Kauffman, who is she? Angelica Kauffman—and the impersonal lady rends the veil and arises like a rose. My analogy— what have you to say against it?” “That I’m a very humble woman, without any notoriety, thank goodness, who is known to her general acquaintances as Mrs. Field.” “T’ll bet you a million pounds to a penny that you’re not.” He threw himself back on the seat, which rocked from the impact of his body. ‘The artistry of your personality makes you Paula Field to every one who has known you for five minutes, or seen your portrait in the papers. Oh, I know,” he said, bending forward, ‘‘that by your remark you intended to set me in my proper place. But my proper place is not where you think it is.” Paula, conscious of balance calmly kept, asked: “Where is it? I should like to know.” He flickered a hand from ground to sky. “Wherever I will it to be. Circumstances have not placed me. I have placed myself. Year by year, higher and higher. It’s a mat- ter of will, of self-appreciation. That’s why— | a moment ago—I began to tell you something | and broke off... . : Any semi-bred puppy can tell a commonplace pretty woman that she’s the most beautiful thing in the world. But what real man—save me—”’ he smote his broad chest—‘‘has ever had the audacity to make such an instantaneous declaration to Paula Field?” “*T’ll admit,” said she, “that you’re unique.” “And so you're up against me. I’m not according to pattern. You can’t fit me into one pigeon-hole as you can Spencer Babing- ton, or another like the dreary prelate of Dedminster, or another like the sex-ridden young woman who writes the awful novels. You shrink into your British shell of defensive armor. But you know very well that inside yourself, your mind, your soul, whatever it is, you are saying: ‘ Why shouldn’t a human being be unique?’ And indeed, where’s the crime?” “Tt’s not a crime, but it may be a discom- fort.” He threw back his head and laurhed good- humoredly. The infection caught her. He asked: “Am I forgiven?” She smiled. It was a golden day with a breeze in it and the shade was most restful, the man’s voice pleasant, his attitude flatter- ing. In answer to his question she said: “‘T suppose so. At least you will be if you talk about something else.” “T will talk with you,” said he, “on any subject under the sun.” She made a laughing answer and so peace was made between them. She found that his boast was not so thrasonical as it seemed. His mind was stored with a wealth of knowl- edge colored by a fervid imagination. With him picturesque and emphatic statement took the place of argument. Paula’s feminine wit quickly discerned that the best of him went forth to the accomplished listener. When they rose, to move toward the house and prep- arations for luncheon, they were sworn friends. At least, so proclaimed Pandolfo with a flourish, as they walked along. OR the rest of the visit Paula endured his dominance with half-rueful acknowledg- ment. He interested her always; at times fas- cinated her; now and then, also, sent her back curiously shivering. The last sensation she resented, being accustomed to the cool and confident handling of men. Their homage had been hers since girlhood. She had the real beauty that ensures it. She possessed, too, the common sense and the humor which pre- sented her safe and pleasant conduct. In her own way, she was a man’s woman. She had a frank love of the company of men, and, know- ing them, walked among them fearlessly. Thus fear of a man, instinctive, feminine, was new and peculiarly disagreeable. It was not that Pandolfo overstepped limits of propriety in speech or action. His first tribute had been his most monstrous declaration. Behind his eyes, when he looked at her, there had been nothing of that with which her woman’s equipment had always enabled her to deal. There was nothing, in fact, that could suggest him as a lover, ardent, devout or humble. He was too vehement and masculine to talk the disgusting twaddle of esoteric, spiritual relationship. He had proclaimed her, once and for all, as a woman on his own plane of personality. It was splendid arrogance, colos- sal impudence, anything you like in the way of braggadocio. But there it rested. He had caught her up into the spheres wherein he pro- fessed to have his being and implicitly de- clared his intention of maintaining her there forever; at any rate, in some such figurative style did she realize her position. She was afraid. And she could not conceive an ordi ' nary, straightforward reason for her fear. HARPER’S BAZ4p Novel She was an ordinary, straightforward Wo- man, impatient of subtleties. She had j ed her life in the major key of love and death and courage. It was the very directness of the man that attracted her and compelled her There must be some direct reason tor her fea: There was nothing remotely Suggestive of the hypnotic about him. She said to herselj that he was too vast. Still less was there any- thing of the vampiric; the quality of the ain ture who gets hold of you, gradually, remorse. leSsly and sucks your vitality to feed its own thin-blooded necessities. Poor old Spencer— she repudiated instantly the He was radiantly self-sufficing. He gave lavishly of himself; took for granted her ac. ceptance. She said to Clara Demeter: “He swamps one. I feel like a bit of wood carried down by a river in spate. Of course] like him, my dear. But I like a quiet fife better. I’m not going to do any more lion. taming for you,” she said, after the give and take of talk had necessitated a change of meta- phor. “‘It’s too strenuous. Besides there are consequences. HERE were, as she, wise prophetess, fore- told. He insisted on motoring her to London on the Monday morning. In the first place, a crowded train on a sweltering July day was not for a woman of her quality. Seg- ondly, unless she drove with him she would be reckoned among the benighted billions of human beings—all mankind, in fact, save himself and his chauffeur sworn to sec —who had no idea of the potentialities of the inner combustion engine. There was also a new adaptation of springs, of cunning shock absorbers, which made headlong progress over broken flints smoother than a crawl round Brooklands. “Tt will please you,” said he. “Why deny me the simple satisfaction of giving you pleasure?”’ Indeed, what valid reason had she for re- fusal? A lift for a lone woman in a hospitable car was the most conventional thing in the world. She went. She had to agree that his boastings had not been vain. No gondola on the laziest of Venice canals could have ad- vanced with more languorous smoothness. “Lots of people talk of the great things they’re going to do,” said he; “I don’t until they’re done.” Thus began a fascinating yet embarrassing intimacy. A few days afterwards he called on her, having telephoned for an appointment, with the model for the fastening of her bar- rette. He declared it'as fast as death, as eager as a child for her admiration. What could she do but entrust her brooch to him? He would vield, this time, to convention, and have the iastener executed in platinum. “But why?” she asked diffidently. “This new metal of yours is most attractive.” “Tt isn’t perfect,”’ said he. ‘‘I aim at per- fection. Nothing but that can come out of my hands to be laid at your feet.” Later, he called again, all in a hurry. Lady Demeter and one or two others had promised to lunch with him at his house in Chelsea. Would she come? What day? she asked. It was for her to name it, said he, thereby signifying that Lady Demeter and the others were attendant on her good pleasure. At random, for it was the fa end of the season, she suggested Tuesday. Tuesday should it be. Meanwhile she collected odds and scraps of information concerning him. Before her meeting him at Hinsted, she had never heard his name; now it seemed to be familiar to most of her acquaintances. His reputation, she found, ran every gamut, from captivating gentleman to unmannerly boor; from_ ime proachable idealist to the greatest of ev livers; from genius to charlatan. Details were blurred, save those manifestly extravagant. No one seemed to know whence he had come. Knowledge of his achievement was vague. Some said that all the Admiralty’s antl- torpedo appliances were due to his brail others that he had come forward and grabbed his K.B.E. with the brazen assurance of t thief who, entering a jeweler’s shop in br daylight, walks off with a diamond necklace. Worshipers of Mammon, as is their way, 34 that he rolled in the immense fortune brought to him by his inventions; the evil-tongued an envious, that he staggered on the brink of the adventurer’s bankruptcy. One old-fashion gentleman said darkly: “The mans enigma. that his house d of its an as the show apartments of a histori¢ ai It was richly furnished, in the French style Louis Seize and Empire. In the room — small but choice collection of pictures. To! guests he was the perfect cicerone, vaunting (Continued on page 122

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vard Wo- S, fore- her to In the ig July round deny ; you or re- itable n the at his ndola e ad- hings until

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Pr} =) erean~ Don’t wash your face ever. dry the skin disastrously. mercial mineral oils. mulas, in France. truly exclusive. quite without charge. answer it. it most beautiful. direct from her. $1.90 and up. NEW YORK TWharie “this is the es 1 te $e = =e 72) C3 MARIE EARLE explains that the Essential Cream is just as surely the normal food for the skin as milk is the natural food for a little child. The Marie Earle treatment is simple and reasonable—you will like it and believe in it—any woman would. The Creme Anti Rides, a cleansing and nourishing preparation, is the basis. the Essential Cream.) Use it each night, first for a thorough cleansing. Then put it on again and let it feed your skin. (In English ask for Alkaline soap and hard water Marie Earle supervises the mixing of the Creme Anti Rides herself. It contains only the rich vegetable oils which the skin absorbs, and no com- All her preparations, made after formulas used by her uncle, who was a skin specialist in Harley Street, London, she mixes herself. pactes and bath soap are prepared according to her for- (Powders, com- Marie Earle’s salon in Paris became familiar to promi- nent American society women, who persuaded her to come to New York several years ago. You are privileged now to ask her advice, Send for her questionnaire and She will tell you what your skin needs to make Salons in Paris, in Washington; in New York, 600 Madison Avenue. sale in quality stores—write for a list of them. The Essential Cream in generous jars, Her clientele has been Her preparations are on Or order fo Carte’ PARIS HARPER’S BAZAR THE GREAT PANDOLFO William Jf. Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 120) the qualities of his pieces, and not without justification. Said Sir Spencer Babington, especially invited to inspect the Andrea Vaccaro: “These fellows who talk so much—you always expect to find them tripping. He doesn’t trip, confound him.” “Why should you want him to?”’ she asked. “T don’t like people so overpoweringly Jovian,” said he. HIS was after lunch. Pandolfo had recommended an 1892 Ayala, deprecating prejudice against midday champagne. But they would see. They would taste the per- fection of light luncheon wines! Babington politely questioned the possibility of cham- pagne surviving thirty years. Pandolfo smiled at him, with uplifted head. “My dear fellow!” said he. His glass was the first to be filled. He smelled and tasted it. He smiled again and waved across the table. “Yours shall be the first judgment, a quiver of the nose or a wrinkle of the brow, and the bottle shall be poured away into eternity.” Babington smelled and sipped, and dry judge of wine and scrupulously honest ac- cording to his lights, bowed approvingly to his host. “Of a past generation, of course,” said Pandolfo. ‘Fragile but sound. With a lingering perfume—figuratively speaking— like lavender.” “It is truly so,” said Babington, though in his heart he damned the cock-sure fellow for being right. ‘“‘Not robust enough for dinner; but for luncheon, exquisite.” Pandolfo turned to Paula. ‘The doubting Thomas,” said he. ‘‘That’s the tragedy of my life. I’ve got to convert the Didymites before I can get anything done.” Again had Babington been defeated—over a dish of quails, which he had refused. “Babington, you horrify me,” cried Pan- dolfo in large protest. ‘Diplomacy divorced from quails—” “T’m sorry—but quails—” “Ordinarily are just quails. I understand. The dreadful protocol. But these are minia- ture birds of Paradise. The creation is the result of a conference between myself and the chef of a recently discrowned head. Trust me and try.” So Babington, out of courtesy, tasted, and out of epicurean gluttony picked the succu- lent bird to its carcass, and had another. Food, wine, service had been faultless. The host, the most flashingly gracious to every guest. Yet had Paula the sense of being entertained in a room wherein no one could dwell. Here and there in France and Italy has a stately house been converted into a hotel, the old dining-hall still preserved and swept clear of everything personal, even of haunting ghosts, and all the sweet old house- hold gods that gave it the consecration of human emotions replaced by lifeless ornament. There was no offense against taste. But the room was dead, as though it had been the work of two pale and tired young experts from Bond Street and St. James’s Street. And there was the vehement creature by her side enthusiastic over all these possessions. She agreed with the old-fashioned gentleman who had called him an enigma. To Babington, who had come prepared to sniff at the Andrea Vaccaro and found it a flawless example of the late Italian master, who had been converted against his will to appreciation of thirty-year-old champagne and of a bird which he had hitherto detested, Pandolfo was an overpoweringly Jovian person who had the maddening gift of always being right. S THEY drove away, Lady Demeter, who offered Paula a lift in her car as far as Basil Mansions, commended host and lunch. **But,”’ said she, “the man doesn’t seem to have any private life.” Paula laughed. *‘* Dear prim Spencer would harmonize more with that uninhabited drawing-room.” ‘The house wants a woman, my dear.” “And you're already hiring the Ritz Hotel and wondering whether it'll be big enough to hold all the people you're going to ask to the wedding-reception.” THE SECOND Lady Demeter called her a most ungratef woman. In her words Paula detected hl unwonted sharp note of seriousness She broke into remonstrance. Even the Mos incurable romantic in the world, which “a Clara Demeter, could not conceive aa, possibility. , ‘““My dear Paula,” said Lady Demete ‘short of a physical impossibility such = gas-lamp running away with an armadillo, there’s nothing impossible in this world of different sexes. Look at me, I married Demeter.” “Frank’s a dear and a gentlema: knows that you adore him.” “ae ~ “Quite so. It proves my point. him and look at me. Who wea thought it?” Paula looked inwardly and smiled. There seemed, indeed, little in common between the little, white, elderly, timid mouse of g man and his florid and opulently endowed lady. Yet her intimate knowledge of them assured her that they were the happiest married couple in the world. Clara, how- ever, in her feminine way, had begged the question. Paula had qualified Lord Demeter as a gentleman, a term of significance. Her delicacy forbore to press the point. She said lightly: “You're always thinking of marrying me off, Clara, but you won’t do it. The state of widowhood isn’t at all indecent.” Lady Demeter rested her hand on her friend’s knee. “With a woman like you, it is. tively is.” A few minutes later, when Paula Field found herself alone in the stuffy drawing- room overshadowed by the red-brick mass of Harrod’s Stores, and caught sight of her superb beauty in the mantelpiece mirror, and felt within herself the pulsations of glorious health and youth, and the stirrings of warm tentacles groping restless, persistent toward something, something rich, something of Life’s eternal promise, she caught her breath and turned away, her hand on her bosom. The dear foolish, worldly Clara pierced deeper, perhaps, into human things than she knew. ‘ It posi- Two mornings afterwards came the brooch, exquisitely fitted with an inescapable plati- num pin. Also, not a bouquet, but a bowerful of roses; and a note: “The pin for the bosom, the flowers for the feet of the most beautiful woman in the world.” Practically a declaration in form, thought Paula. Whether in good or bad form was another matter. With a curl of her humorous lips she wrote him the primmest little letter of thanks. He called the next day. She was, literally, not at home. A week passed. Then came a mighty packing-case, with a written line of explanation: “An offering of first fruits.” The porter of the Mansions had to be summoned with hammer and _ screw-driver to open the case. Out of straw and other packing emerged a silvery metal casting of Benvenuto Cellini’s Perseus holding the Medusa’s head. She had seen the original bronze in the Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence. She had seen, like most other people, repro- ductions here and there. But never had she seen one in apparently solid silver. For want of place from which to view it she had it set on her dining-room table. For~a while she regarded it perplexedly. A silver statue was an embarrassing gift for a modest widow to receive from a stranger; to say nothing of the encumbering discomfort to the said widow's household gods. Yet it was not quite silver. It dawned upon her that it was not silver, but Pandolfo’s boasted new metal. His words were “first fruits.” She reasoned rightly that it was the result of his first experiments in the application of his me to the grand artistic. The casting had been exquisitely done. Pains almost equal to Benvenuto’s historical travail had been bestowed on it. But in this white metal that shone with the dull hope- lessness of burnished pewter, it lacked the mystery of the bronze. The magical lights of silver might have saved its beauty through sheer bravado. This new thing, for all its (Continued on page 124) TERM If for any reason you want to change schools for the second semester, now is the time to decide. You will find the best schools in the country listed on pages 30, 31, 32, 33, 34 and 35 of this issue. If you cannot find the school you want, write to us for information. for

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yr DECEMBER 1924 ngrateful ] HE magic hour of the day is that restful time when you watch the entrance of the tea-wagon with its delicious aroma from the East, its fragile, brilliant cups and bright plates heaped with dainties, spicy and delicate. No occasion gives more exquisite setting for silver. Teaspoons $ 3 -60Set of > CC) 1924 ONEIDA COMMUNITY

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Ge you dak in ? Just as the skilled fingers of a masseuse knead your flesh, the Jordan manipulates the fatty tissues, which break down and are carried off by stimulation of the circulation. Now you can reduce easily— pleasantly, without extreme methods Fat, the enemy of beauty that creeps beneath your chin, under the arms, or around your shoul- ders or waist—on your hips or back, can be banished—without a starvation diet, without deny- ing yourself the foods your body needs for health. Without exhaust- ing and heart-taxing exercises. Get thin where you want to Back and forth, from side to side. My scientifically corrugated roller massages the flesh four ways at once, like the strong practiced hands of a masseuse—but with far greater effect. The fat tis- sue breaks down under this at- tack and is carried off by in- creased circulation. My reducer firms the tissues—rolls the fat away. No flabbiness to wrinkle the skin and bring that look of premature age that comes when You can have a smooth throat line, a firm chin. The Jordan Junior is for the places where a smaller re- ducer is needed. It leaves no dis- figuring flabbiness. Try it. You'll be amazed at the results. you reduce all over. The Francis Jordan. is a conditioner as well as a reducer—for both men and women to use at home. Amazing results in twenty exhilarating minutes a day Start reducing where you need reducing. For twenty minutes a day use my reducer and watch results. You begin to feel bet- ter immediately. The fat disap- pears. Your blood races through your veins, building up health and strength, Once more you have the glorious slimness of youth, The better stores sell the Francis Jordan Reducer Franklin Simon and Bonwit Telle: in New York, Slattery’s in Bos- ton, Halle Bros. in Cleveland, Marshall Field and Chas. A. Stevens & Bros. in Chicago, John Wanamaker in Philadelphia— leading stores throughout the United States sell the Francis Jordan and Jordan Junior. If your dealer does not carry them, mail us a check and we will gladly supply you direct. The Francis Jordan for the hips, back, thighs, stomach, etc., is $12.50. The Jordan Junior for the chin, underarms, ankles, etc., is $5.00. Send for my interesting free booklet, “How to Reduce Fat Spots” 826 Fifth Avenue LOS ANGELES Dept. 12-B Elizabeth Arden, London and Paris Representative K® | HARPER’S Bazar THE GREAT PANDOLFQO William J. Locke "s Novel (Continued from page 122) technical perfection, loomed metallically dull. It was at once so perfect and so impossible. Her heart sank. He burst in upon her during the afternoon. “Did you get it? What do you think of it? Months and months, my dear, it has cost me, to say nothing of a small fortune. But I can do all the statuary of the world in it. Once on the market, a hundredth the price of bronze. The art of all the ages’’—he held up both arms with hands outstretched— “within reach of the lowliest. For a few shillings, a trifle—and the poorest can fill their homes with imperishable, untarnishable beauty. Bronze, as I’ve hinted, is expensive. No one can buy bronzes but the rich. The less well off buy plaster casts and stick them on their mantelpieces or in their little gardens and the ears come off and the noses get chipped and the weather and housemaids combine to render them objects of derision— but now, what do you think? Haven't I solved the whole thing? By the way’’—he looked around the drawing-room—* where is the Perseus?” “On my dining table,”’ replied Paula, who forbore to say that it was her one dumping spot. “Splendid,” said he, in his vast manner. ‘\ site of honor. Benvenuto must be flinzing you his florid gratitude from Paradise. \nd I, too, am complimented. It’s some- thing to be Benvenuto’s translator. Let me see how it looks. Do you mind?” Smilingly she led the way into her little dining-room, softened by an absurd pity for this vehement child who took for granted her absorbed interest in his sand-castle. He circled around the statue perfectly lit from the room’s northeast window and scanned _ it with bent brow. “Tt’s too gray. It’s dead. Looks like a corpse. [Il try again and send you another. I told you it was an experiment, didn’t I? I'll take it away now.” “Youll do no such thing,” “T love it.” “T hate to give you anything of myself that isn’t perfection,” said he. “Tl keep this anyhow, until the perfect thing comes along,”’ she replied. They passed into the drawing-room. “What made you think of statuary in your metal?” “Heredity,” said he, with an air of triumph- ant challenge. ‘‘My father used to hawk a tray of plaster-casts about the streets of London.” said Paula, VICTOR PANDOLFO drove away from Basil Mansions with a beaming face. The most beautiful woman in the world had received the shock of his announcement without wincing. That true steel quality of hers. The pure breed! A lesser creature would have gasped. By heavens! She was indeed worth the wearing! She had merely waved toward the dining-room: “Your father would have joined hands in wonder with Benvenuto.” The adorable graciousness of her! He slapped his thigh, as he rolled up Knights- bridge in his car; he was essentially a man of action. “The outside world,” he had said *‘ matters to me not the hair on a fly’s leg. What I am and whence I came is none of their business. But you must know me as | am.” She had drawn herself up in her glorious and ironical way. “Will you be so kind as to tell me why?” “For the most elemental reason that can enter the head of woman.” She had turned, fidgeted a drooping rose deeper into a glass vase. He had taken the other hand hanging limp and undecided, had carried it to his lips with a flourish and marched out. He was conscious of the artistic touch; the eternal canon of restraint. He had left her in the air. The roar of Knightsbridge and Piccadilly received him like an applauded actor. The scene had been short, swift, dramatic; hold- ing just the delicious suspense of decision. He rolled down the Haymarket, along the Embankment, City-wards where he had an appointment with great financial person- ages. You cannot convert a notoriously conservative and doubting world to enthu- siastic faith ina new metal that will wipe out of human consideration tin, zinc, pewter, nickel, electro-plate, silver, and platinum, and, above all, steel, without spending vast sums of money in pure and simple cajolery. It was a repulsive psychological fact of modernity. Faith had to be bought in cash payment. He could prove to Admiralties, \ir Ministries, Ordnance Branches, Societies Royal, Metallurgical, Mineralogical, Chemical Institutions of Civil and Mechanical and Electric Engineers, Institutes of Iron and Steel, vast corporations blowing futile fur- naces the length and breadth of the land, that his new metal was the greatest gift to man since Prometheus brought down fire from heaven. It was a fact « tion to elementary human little open to dispute as the sur. rlority of aeroplane over a bullock-cart as a mean “ locomotion. But you can prove things to people until you are blue in the face The. yield to every argument; they are convin od. and then you ge away and something dia mg arises within them which calls . “ iar. ‘Ving conv; lligence; as ~ - ls you All of which was paradoxical and he ay breaking. Oh, for the old ages of faith! Jonah goes to Nineveh with his whale story and the king believes him at once and sees to it that the Ninevites put themselves t amazing personal discomfort. Not an hag ‘tellectual effort is attempted by the wh: h community. It was faith. © Nowadays nothing less than c’nematographic adver tisements could induce people to believe jn Jonah; and in order to convince the govern ment he would have to turn himself into q limited company with a well paid-up capit i behind him. Of course Jonah was rather 4 dismal fellow, prophesying woe; so far th, analogy did not hold good. But at any rate he was a Man with a Message, just like Pan, dolfo. In the days of Nineveh he would only have had to deliver it and be acclaimed as public benefactor from palace roof to gutter and the king would have thrown open his Treasure House and told him to help himself Now he had to go grubbing for pence in the City of London. Pandolfo hated the City It always wanted to see the channel of return for its money scoured out through social life He had been known to describe it as a soul ganglion of wealth. T THEIR last meeting the gang of ex 4 ploiters, directors of joint-stock banks and other large and granite-headed corpora tions had worried him to death because he had not found a suitable name for his new metal Provisionally he had called it acieto. One con spirator had said that the word suggested a patent food; another, a parlor-game. “Call it after me, its inventor, its creator, he had cried. “* Pandolphum—with a ‘ph’—or Doiphinium.” The objection was raised that it sounded like a flower. To the mercilessness of these unimagina tive folk was he now going again to surrender himself. If he had rolled through Piccadilly amid applause, he entered the City to be greeted with silent derision. He did not fear the supplementary report of the expert metal lurgist appointed by his tentative syndicate The rule of thumb dullard had only to state an accumulation of dry scientific facts. He de tested, though felt no alarm at, the prospect of cross-examination on the sordid vulgarities of commercial profit. His main worry pro ceeded from the continued failure of his inven tive faculty in the matter of nomenclature. His car drew up at the block of buildings wherein lay the office of interview. He walked briskly to the lift. Ascending he glanced at his watch. He drew a breath of dismay. He Victor Pandolfo, who prided himself on being the only punctual man in England was five minutes late for his appointment. It was all Paula’s fault. Had she not, in some witch manner, compelled him to his beau geste ol declaration, he would have left her five min utes earlier. It flashed idiotically through his head to say: “Gentlemen, my apologies I was detained by the most beautiful woman in the world. Paula. The one and only Paula ‘i , Suddenly he smote palm violently with fist and cried: “My God!” The astonished lift-boy thought him mad and missed the floor and went on mounting until Pandolfo, conscious of Empyrean flight bade him descend. He marched intothe temporary board-room, waved hands both in greeting and in command of attention. ; “Gentlemen,” said he, ‘I have a name lor the new metal. 1 decline to listen to a whisper of discussion. It is called Paulinium Y aseries of such dominant stro‘es of sel assertion had he succeeded in life. Over and over again had come crisés in which the sole means of self-preservation was a conquer or’s disregard of lesser men. The instinct had saved him, in his obscure childhood, from the absorption in the quagmire of Saffron Hill where he was born and where his father. ven dor of plaster-of-Paris Venuses and Apollos had his malodorous habitation in the mies of the Italian colony of organ-grinders, waite in lamentable restaurants, and various ban ditti, who eked out a precarious livelihood by knifing those who disagreed with them o questions of taste. His father, Angelo Pandolfo, was a dream ing fellow, as mild as his name. He had come from Naples as a boy to find fortune In the City of Golden Wealth, as washer-up in are tive’s ristorante in a mildewed corner 0! Soho He was slim and beautiful, with dim longin® (Continued on page 120 for SELSLLILELILLLLLLLELLLASLLELLLLLLIIS, TEPTITITIITITITTTTT TTI ETAT ITIL ATT TT TT TITIES TTT TT TTT TPIT TTT rrp TTT ppp ppp sr ssese terse ss [Pe ee eee eee Sees teeeeeees ss eseSSSSSSSSSSASSAS SSS SISLISLSSISSLSLSILILILIIIILALLIILIAL EL ITLL LIT tts rt tptrtsrtst tts

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126 Hillinery Modes © ‘Reboux “Directoire high crown felt hat with Gardenia trimming, first introduced in America by us in April. Reboux cut felt hat which we sold to all discriminating retailers in | May, before their buyers left for | Europe. Crushable felt hat with blondine pompon, in plain and ombre shad- | ings of which we were by far the | largest producers and which we presented first in America in July. | The Alpine and Tyroleon Mode as introduced by Agnes and Re- boux, our first importation being shown in September and October and at present the newest style in America. «AND NOW, Mr. Retailer, what are you going to do about your Palm Beach and Spring Hats? Guess —or buy them here where you know such evidence assures you of positive success? They are here now! MAKERS OF TAILORED HAT Women who see the Earl Label in your hat know that the Style is authentic Sarrington & Evans Co FIFTH AVENUE ar 3678 ST. NEW YORK and & ; 1 of Soyle Certaintias / HARPER’S BAzap THE GREAT PANDOLFQO William Jf. Locke’s Novel (Continued from page 124) within him toward an esthetic higher in scale than the perfume of stale cabbage, garlic, burnt fat and cheap game hovering on the verge of sanitary condemnation. A few pence a week made him member of a dreadful club, in which he spent the scanty hours of his leisure. There, occasionally, he would see en- throned in the mightiest seat, the splendid Emmanuele Bolla, President, Patron, Mag- nifico, Directing Deity of the club. He was the great man, the colossal artist. celebrated throughout the length and breadth of the land. His fame was legendary. He had vast studios, in which was set out in bewildering profusion, the statuary of all the ages. Did king or emperor yearn for a copy, the same as the original, of some statue inthe Museum of Naples or the Vatican, he went in person to Emmanuele Bolla, who with his mystical smile, satisfied that king or emperor's heart’s desire. He wore a heavy gold ring with a devil of a diamond on his fat little finger. From the rest of his obese person he oozed opulence. He drank gin and water. It happened one evening that the sweep of a gesticulating hand sent the half-emptied glass across the room. Young Angelo was one of the company who darted for it, but it was he who retrieved it and handed it back, like a consecrated goblet, to the great man. Emmanuele Bolla, a patriot in his way, was struck by the lithe and handsome grace of the young Neapolitan. He deigned to enter into conversation, learned the boy’s lowly trade and his high ambition. His shrewd business mind caught opportunity by its curly black hair. Here to his hand was the ideal peripa- tetic vendor of his wares. He employed many, mainly to whose salesmanship he owe: his comfortable paunch, his diamond ring and his position in the Club of United Italy. But with this young man could none of them compare. Here was one who could soften the heart, and wheedle the pocket out of the sour- est of elderly English virgins. On the spot he offered him the position; so much a week; so much commission on sales. On the spot Angelo accepted. The next morning he shook from his hands the grease of the awful kitchen, and hied him to the factory of plaster casts. He stood on the threshold of the dilapi- dated factory and beheld the interior as a Palace of Enchantment. A myriad little white gleaming things of beauty met his eye and instantly ministered to the satisfaction of his poor hungering soul. “My little son,’’ said the great Emmanuele, dragging him in by his coat collar, “before you sell you must know what you sell. This trade demands intelligence, love, and un- scrupulousness. I give you a week to develop these qualities. If at the end—” the wave of a bediamonded hand toward the door com- pleted the sentence. IIUS did Angelo Pandolfo begin his fas- cinating though not over-lucrative career. He learned with quick brain the formal his- tory of his daily tray of little images; his inar ticulate artistic soul loved them for their beauty; it was on the quasi-dishonest, com mercial side that he failed. He had his mini- mum price fixed by Bolla. Below that, com- mon sense compelled him not to descend. But the maximum was at the command of his own engaging personality. Angelo, loving his images and swept away by any enthusiasm manifested by a would-be purchaser, seldom advanced much beyond his minimum. Yet he sold well and satisfied his patron. The vendors had their districts. In the course of time and of accident his predecessor having been put in gaol for stealing overcoats from the hall of a house into which he had been admitted—he was promoted to Blooms bury, which at that period was the home of the simple, fat, and well-to-do. There were great, square, broad thoroughfares to walk in, easy folk to accost. Angelo translated (in episcopal terms) from the vulgar scurry of Islington, expanded his chest with the air of one at last entering into his kingdom. Only those who have struggled upwards through stereotyped grades can appreciate the magic thrill of promotion. The young Neapolitan, possibly one of the last of his trade in London, strode or lounged or loafed—(to a Neapolitan it is all one)—-around the Bloomsbury Squares, with the grace of a young god. Areas serving for the ascent, descent, or congregating of naids were not unappreciative. here was one, Susan Cookson, a house- maid in Russell Square, who bought from him a cast of the Boy with the Thorn, which she stuck on the mantelpiece of her little back- attic bedroom, between the faded photo- graphs of her dead father and mother. She was a comely, serious, and thoughtful orphan. Her thoughtfulness suggested a resemblance between the exquisite boy of the cast and the young vendor. Her comeliness, after a few subsequent meetings with Angelo, at the top of the area steps, made it manifest to her that she was beloved for its sweet sake. Her seriousness, after much interviewing and love-making, she eventually threy winds. She was the beautiful. dreamy. oy, and only Angelo’s, and he was hers, It org matter of sweet and honest love. This a that were what he could offer her, said be conducting her to his bare room in Saf os Hill. And this and that, she cried with in woman’s wisdom, could she do for her ines helpless Angelo, and make the bleak i a bower of delight. ‘ So they married. A child was born whom they christened Vittore. His early childh was passed among the cheery and not alloc washed progeny of the Hill. Angelo, a moted to a handcart and ambitious serclioes of the studio, would take the small Vittore with him on fine summer days, to teach him as he said, the business. His other ‘oke was to point him out to possible customer; as the only image not for sale. And thus. o» the child’s first waking conception of ‘the world dawned as a vague alien place peopled to the aCe a intimately with dazzling little white forms In the course of time the eminent artist Emmanuele Bolla took the faithful vendo; from the road and established him jn the factory. For he had prospered and been able to improve the moulding of his cast; and to acquire a clientele of a higher class thay that touched by itineracy. Angelo became head salesman. He moved from Saffron Hill to luxurious rooms (in the plural) above 4 greengrocer’s shop in Greek Street, Soh Inhabitant of these realms of splendor, th six-year-old Vittore was chastised for undy familiarity with an organ-grinder’s monkey who had been housemate and bosom frien‘ a few months before. At his life Victor Pandolfo remembere! that day, when lying down resentful, sore. and necessarily prone, the first Great Con- ception stirred his spirit. A Giacomo (such was the monkey’s name) was essential to his existence. If he could not hold communion with a living one, human injustice and un- reason could not forbid his cherishing counterfeit presentment. He was aware that such things could be bought in toy-shops; but they cost money. He had a vague consciousness also, that they would prove unsatisfying to his needs, being but soulless parodies of Giacomo. The structure, features, fur of Giacomo were burnt into his brain For some days he went about obsessed with the idea of creation; stored in a hiding-hole behind his bed a magpie’s hoard of street and studio gleanings—bits of rabbit fur, tarred rope, rags, needles, thread, a stump of red pencil, a rusty pair of scissors (treasure of treasures) found amid the rubbish of the kitchen drawer, and two buttons. surrepti- tiously torn from a soiled shirt of his father’s, which, when blackened from the family ink-bottle, would do for eyes. And s0, in secrecy, was the new Giacomo constructed, the tarred rope providing the magnificent finish of a tail. “Where in the world did you get that thing from?” asked his mother one day, her immediate maternal devotion having been diverted from him to the needs of a sickly baby sister. “T made it,” he cried defiant, clutching the abortion to his breast. “You're a funny boy,” said his mother, plac idly. . “Funny?” cried his father. ‘‘But, son ol mine, let me see.” He held up Giacomo Il and gazed at it in rapt admiration. “Funny? He is an artist, a creator. You shall come with me to-morrow, Vittore, to the studi and show it to the padrone.” HAT was the childish beginning of things He had discovered in himself the gilt ol making; of adapting commonplace means to extraordinary ends. He was not a creativ artist, as Angelo fondly proclaimed. It ha been the material form and not the artist semblance of the monkey with which he had been intensely concerned. His father, @ simple and adoring person, and through his very simplicity a great trial to a happy = efficient wife, gave him a couple of wat mice in a cardboard box. Susan saw tm palatial apartment in Greek Street overrul with white mice. The infant Vittore allayee her fears by constructing a cage, the wirng for which, inclusive of many ladders ‘ rings, he obtained from the refuse soda-ws bottle corks at a neighboring restaurant. mind worked toward the practical, \ queer yearnings of his soul were satishe’ when Angelo allowed him to wander at wil through the great gloomy shed stacked ¥ the gleaming effigies of the sculptured master pieces of all time. His although Vittore went toa Board School. The Italian name evoked the mockery of his schoolmates He was sturdy and as English as you please. Had not Angelo, at Susan’s instigation, 0M) through the formality of naturalization Having inflicted on a small scorner an © (Continued on page 125) for Same, aS H¢

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tor DECEMBER 1924 Zim O = a 4} my, on = : \ es 7. t y « (| l Y »\, os in so a asa -. y \ Y) 7 j D ay 4 “ll “a Phis an 2x jj n \ PeF | G x MIN = ~ Fx said he. \\ = Saffron AN = Ys = = Yia\\ MU \\ ye With he- = yy — Be > ZA PAWS A We her poor : / ~ \\ —_ , \ - place a ‘ TN. who hildhood Ot ofte } j SS lo, pro- ip ( \ ES YW \ \ =." \ ‘ Products Vittore rS) % S Parfum Quelques ; a. Parfum Subtilite De Luxe (Buddha), $12.5¢ a - A oe im ! =“ AS i Wz tate be Base a ce Mon saccinia HOUBIGANT ic. 16, West 49, Street, NewYork. 46,St Alexandre St. Montréal

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HARPER’S taza’ | THE GREAT PANDOLFQO William J. Novel (Continued from page 126)

Locke’s

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It seems

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pleasant facial disfigurement of mingled blood and tears, he announced that hence- forward his name was Victor. It conveyed a good sound English meaning. Coming home with gladiatorial traces on his knuckles, which he was careful not to rub off, he de- feated his father in vain-glorious argument. ““At any rate,” said he to Susan, “Victor is our mother Latin.” ‘“*So long as he doesn’t go and get knocked about by horrid big boys, I don’t care what he calls himself,” said Susan, thus veiling her ignorance of what, in the name of Italian imagedom, Mother Latin might be. The young Victor Pandolfo, being a youth of keen intelligence, worked through the dullard school like an angel of light. At the end of a school year he came home groaning triumphantly beneath a load of prizes. He experienced his first thrill of self-assertive power, when once, his mother having ex- pressed a desire—unattainable as that of the moth for the star—for a “‘flinger”—-namely a necklet of fur thrown twice round the neck, with depending ends—he sold his prize volumes (having previously stored their message in his memory) and purchased, with the proceeds, the coveted strip of dyed rabbit skin. He was fourteen. ‘‘Mother,” said he, ‘“‘here is your flinger. Whatever you want what father can’t give you, come to me for it.” She wept and kissed him and even at that time, half believed him. He was an amazing boy. She could not find it in her heart to reprove his boasting. The vivid little wretch never bragged of that which he could not achieve. “This gas bill is half of last quarter's,’ said Angelo one day. “And it’s the winter quarter. How does it happen?” “You only have to tap the main,” said young Victor, who, unconfessed to mortals, had discovered enormous interest in the convolution of gas-pipes, and by simple, yet secret, boring and soldering, had almost arrived at the solution of the problem of free gas-supply. Airily he explained his process. ‘The wonder! The miracle!” cried Angelo, casting hands to heaven. ‘But when it’s found out, Angelo, you'll go to prison,” said Susan. The ardor of father and son was damped. ‘“‘Figlio mio,” said Angelo. In intensive moments, such as this, when he realized the horrible danger which he ran, he reverted to his native tongue ‘“‘I know you're a clever boy, the delight of my existence, and I see in your genius the prop of my old age; but for the love of God, go at once and disconnect all that apparatus that will bring into contact with the police an honest man who has only once had to do with them and that was when I hit a man hard for plucking one of my statues from my tray—it was a Venus de Medici—and throwing it at the Lord Mayor's Show. He was drunk and I was sober. The policeman decided in my tavor and took him away. But it was a very unpleasant experi- ence, for I had to give evidence, and a red- faced man in a wig accused me ot being a mer- chant of pornography. Ah, no! My son, undo, at this moment, all that you have done—’ HUS did he receive during his boyhood encouragement of invention and inculca- tion of virtue. From the Board school he went, with a scholarship, to a Technical College. Thence to the Royal School of Mines. Meanwhile Emmanuele Bolla, grow- ing more obese and idle, Angelo became manager of the studio, and the family moved from Greek Street, Soho, to a little house in the neighborhood of Walham Green which for years had been the queer West-end of Mrs. Pandolfo’s social aspirations. Young Pan- dolfo, prize student once more, left the School of Mines with flying colors and immediately found a position with a firm of metallurgists. Whereupon Angelo, as though of joy at seeing his son launched on the flood of success, incontinently died. On the dreary journey to Fulham cemetery, Susan declared her intention of joining her husband as quickly as possible. “Before you do that, mother,” said Victor, “you'll be riding in your own carriage.” ‘“‘Who's to give it me?” asked the despon- dent widow. *T will,”’ said Victor. He kept his word, though it took him some years to do it And then he gave her a neat motor-car with a liveried chauffeur who used to touch his cap as she issued from the funny little red-brick Walham Green villa, where she insisted on living for the remainder of her days. I'm going to be a great man,” he would assure her “I’m going to invent machines that will turn this topsy-turvy old world down- side up again. I’m beginning to make my fortune. You must live in a style befitting Victor Pandolfo’s mother.” But she maintained her quiet woman’s in- flexibility. She was proud of her son, but she would continue to live in the style befitting Angelo Pandolto’s wife. “Tf I didn’t know that I derived all my strength of character from you,” said ia uy should call you an obstinate old woman’” He had to content himself with filling h house with labor-saving gadgets of My - invention. When she died he gave fas tae — superb funeral that local undertaking alent could devise. The hearse and horses moved in an impenetrable cloud of plumes onl half Covent Garden covered the coffin Be “She never dreamed, poor dear,” said } to his one co-mourner, a nondes« ript who had succeeded his father as manager of Bolla’s “she never dreamed that she would have rt a funeral.” ; Evidently he thought of her as looking « on him with gratitude from whatever she inhabited in the Other World, He passed onward through life, a man of big impulses, swift decisions and essential vanities. He postured—it was his nature— like a charlatan—trumpeting the incredible and yet, so calculated was his belief in himself that act seldom belied promise. He lived lonely, for his fellows feared his young and eager dominance. What did it concern an ignorant lay world that his electric coupling would reduce all such other devices to the lead scrap heap? It did, as a matter of fact; and his patent brought him in consider. able money, so that he emerged from the dingy obscurity of Westminster purlius into the blaze of a splendid office in Victoria Street. But no one would regard him as a benefactor to the human race. Only those to whom elec- tric couplings were a matter of vital concern ran the gamut of interest; disgust—this quack of the fair again; compelled and annoyed at- tention; sniffing distrust; a damn-the-fellow- there-may-be-something-in-it attitude: realj- zation of indubitability on paper; and so on until demonstration of a working mode evoked their grudging enthusiasm. But to other human beings on whom he yearned to shower the benefits of electric couplings, he was but a thunderstorm from which it be- hooved the prudent to take refuge. lown sphere

T WAS in about this period—his early thirties—that he swept up unto himself a wife. His restless mind already on the track of the new metal, he went out to Brazil. A mechanical inventor by instinct, by training he was a metallurgist. There were mines and workings that he must visit. On the home- ward voyage he met a timid little English governess, unable to cope with the insolence of wealth, who was returning in disgrace and poverty. She had everything that is con- ceivable in pink and white English prettiness. Pandolfo, hearing her pathetic little story, waved indignant arms and swore that, though she might land penniless at Southampton, he would see to her installation at least in a ducal household. His Jovianism overpowered her. She listened bemused to his lyrics of patent rotary pumps and electric couplings and his epics of new metals that would revolutionize the world. She thought him God's Great Wonder, and, poor child, was too ingenuous to conceal her thoughts. He caught her up, fair and flowerlike thing, and saturated her with his tremendous personality. As soon as was possible, after his landing at Southamp- ton, Victor married his Emily. After less than a year of dazed apotheosis she died of a still- born babe. Every fable springs from the grain of immortal birth. Even that of Semele. The only thing to spoil this modem application of it was the non-survival of 4 modern Dionysus. Pandolfo went about with wide-flung arms hurling the everlasting “Why?” at gods and men. No answer being vouchsafed, he became confirmed in a poor opinion of both categories of beings and sank deeper into his own sympa- thetic depths. Other women had fitted through his robust life, some in helter-sk fear, others with heads turned back in lin ing fascination. They remained but as pale ghosts in his memory. The tumultuous fierceness of the war confronted him and he plunged into the welter body and _ brains He served, not without distinction, 'n the navy; and he had not boasted idly of 0S torpedo-detection device which, adopted » the Admiralty and distributed throughout the British shipping, had undoubtedly saved thot sands of lives. The Government, which spite of facile sarcasm, used as few razors to cut butter as possible, plucked him Irom the perfectly congenial occupation of pitts himself against elemental.forces as secon? ™ command of a destroyer, and set him dow scientific work in Whitehall.

ger-

HEN the war was over, they rewatt him with a knighthood of the Brit Empire. The happiest hours o! his life w* passed at the first subsequent public funct when he moved among the mighty of the with the purple ribbon, cross _depe round his neck. He was a fine, disting figure of a man and attracted notice shook distinguished personages, Me? * Continued om page I

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vho had Bolla’s, ve such ng down r sphere man of >ssential lature— credible, himself le lived Ing and cern an oupling ; to the atter of ‘onsider- e dingy nto the | Street. nefactor om elec- concern is quack ved at- e-fellow- e; reali- d so on - model But to irned to § ings, he h it be- is early jimself a -azil. A ines and nsolence race and is con- ettiness, le story, , though pton, he 1a ducal red her. f patent and his lutionize ’s Great igenuous - her up, ated her 3 Soon as uthamp- less than of a still- rom the that of yr DECEMBER 1924 } EVERY glorious piece of Fostoria glassware justifies your pride in its purchase. What joy there is in the possession of its loveliness. . . . Crystal gaze a moment! See how magic sparkling beauty is kept alive in a mysterious prison of glass. . . . From the fragile hand- blown crystal, etched with fairy-like tracings, to the deep-etched designs, encrusted with coin gold, Fostoria patterns are rich in conservative charm. . Stemware of slender grace—goblets, parfaits, sherbets; delightful sugar bowls and cream pitchers; console sets and com- potes; mayonnaise sets and marmalade jars. You like Fostoria for its quiet aristocracy of design. Ask for it by name—you can buy none better Gift seasons— remind you of the increasing vogue and correctness of fine crystal. There is something in Fostoria appro- priate for every gift purpose. The Fostoria Glass Com- pany, Moundsville, W. Va. Suggesting this Christ- mas present for your giv- ing—a Vanity with matching candlesticks, in crystal, clear or col- ored, deep-etched and richly gold - encrusted Every prece of Fostoria glassware leaves our factory bearing this brown and white label. FINE CRYSTAL AND DECORATED GLASSWARE

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ia HARPER’S BAZAR jor HOW DRAMATIC CRITICsg JUST HAPPEN (Concluded from page 91) the New York Sun was elevated to the judg- many experts. Playgoers, they say, prefe ment-seat because it was empty and he wasa __like Anatole France, the personal opinions af good reporter. Mr. Towse of the New York a critic to the impersonal news of a revjey,. Evening Post descended involuntarily upon the Others are more interested in the poe mtg Broadway drama from the dreaming spires Mr. Jolson or the plots of Mr. _ of Cambridge. Mr. Ashton Stevens of the than they are in a critic’s impressions of Chicago Herald-Examiner, having taught them. ‘ Mr. Hearst to play the banjo, was commis- The managing editor, if enchanted with the ‘ ¢ ? sioned thereafter to criticize the San Francisco | young woman’s work, will take it before the SA 6S ; minstrel shows, which he did so well that he _ editorial conference of his newspaper whe . A} Vay ere was advanced to more consequential functions. it will be estimated by the sagacious journal- Mr. Broun of the New York World came to ists there assembled. It will be investigated the drum-head from the baseball press-stands, for its verve and acumen, its knowledge of where he had proved himself to be an ob- drama and life, and the possibilities of jt, server and a writer. Miss Amy Leslie of — increasing the circulation. In case the con. 5 the Chicago Daily News graduated to the ference agrees with the managing editor's A gift with the sig- ea bench of that important journal from prima- approval, ~ will be engaged at a. pleasing nificance of atalis- =) donna roles in the Gilbert and Sullivan operas. salary, and the fate of the masterpieces will ; x They arrive haphazard through all channels, be consigned forthwith to the caprices of her | man of the Orient. and the street-car conductor of to-day may pretty fingers. All one needs to become a be the dramatic critic of to-morrow. dramatic critic is luck, opportunity, a capac- ity for distinguishing between right and wrone F I were a young lady panting to be a dra-__—_ a vacancy caused by death or incompetence. | matic critic I think that I would study the and a knack of doing three hours’ work jn | classic wonderworks until I thoroughly under- forty minutes. | stood the difference between Euripides and After getting the job via several miracles | Maurice Maeterlinck. I should acquaint the young woman’s life will be a rosy one. myself with such grave intellects as Aristotle, All she will have to do is to go to the plays Diderot, William Archer, Lessing, and Dr. and write critiques of them. Since she will be Johnson. The date of Moliére’s birth would _ allowed less than an hour in which to compose be as familiar to me as those of Beaumont and her reports she will have plenty of leisure. Fletcher, and I would learn from Brander This can be spent in the coffee-houses, draw- Matthews the habits of the Elizabethan and ing-rooms, and salons, surrounded by dram- other stages. Having soaked myself in atists, impresarios, actors, and actresses who information about everything from the Cart will plead with her to write plays for them and of Thespis to the prologues of Bernard Shaw __ to dine with them at her earliest convenience, I should forget it all and devote myself to Or at least I am so informed by those who Avery Hopwood, Samuel Shipman, Willard are more familiar than I with the life of a Mack, Frederic Lonsdale, and Miss Anne popular dramatic critic. ties, to submit it to a managing editor, and esting thanmen. My little daughter, I think, - e Nichols, author of “‘ Abie’s Irish Rose.” Dramatic criticism is a vocation in which T1IStmds l ts l The next thing for a young lady candidate young ladies should excel, since they are i to do is to write a thesis illustrating her abili- gentler, wiser, more intuitive, and more inter- Ny YF . . . A ¢ to make him believe that it is great. The is more gee = appraise the present » da D t t “@ character of this essay should be determined season’s plays than her parent is—they have ®% O Te 1S Inc lon af by the character of the journal for which it is | been so lullaby and kindergarten. So, as a e& 4* written and by that of its chief executive. drama lover, I am anxious to increase the % CREATED BY at | If they are dull the review should be dull and number of girlish dramatic critics and I stand % ¢ | if they are brilliant it should glitter with puns ready with suggestions and advice to help rsd % | and epigrams. Some attempt should be them in their struggles to the throne. In e 0 G F R & ALLET ny made to inform the public concerning the dramatic criticism, as in other dilemmas, our . iy nature of the play under consideration. slogan should be, “Women and Children *. f £ That, however, is deemed unimportant by First! * Parfumeurs — Paris . t V a i) e rv) Le Jape, the Precious Perf. is offered 9 ADE, the Precious Perfume, is offere e $¢ in artistic, colorful combination boxes os THE GREAT PANDOLFO 4 ( containing two or more products. ) 2 (Continued from page 128) ? i re — ° : ° aes ‘ ‘ 4 The Fleurs d Amour Gift Boxes are 4 women, by the hand. The Great World was did he reveal the secret of his birth or even his e more beautiful this season than ever— e oe friend. ' He ring Pa it that once = _ remote a —_ ‘het a ; 2c} as Po . ¥: only Trienc in the worlc great in another ‘ t was only when aula biel stood belore « mn designs inspired by the most luxu 4 | significance—was an organ-grinder’s monkey — him at Lady Demeter’s, in her brown and sil- r TLOUS perfume in the world, é& in the unsavory slums of Saffron Hill. He — ver majesty, and he knew, in a flash, that she e A sk | ale | | 7 * exulted. Jo son io. He was he himself; once was the only woman in the universe worth his * Sk your dealer to show them to you. 7 carried round the Bloomsbury Squares, en- while to conquer, that his shrewd Italian * ROGER & GALLET’S new Guide to Parisian a veloped in dubious blankets on a_hand- brain registered the conviction that Truth, 4 Toilet Specialties, “Fashions in Fragrance,” de- 4 barrow eee with ig casts and wheeled a ~ a javelin, at the right moment, was 4 scribes Fleurs d’ Amour, Le Jade and many other by the humble, smiling, _future-disregarding the only sure weapon. “ tall, dietinsied meshamen, homme howeeds * Neapolitan that was his father; and now Sir He rolled away from his meeting in the ° distinguished perfumes. It suggests how to shop * Victor Pandolfo, K.B.E., with a purple ribbon —_ City to his house in Chelsea, smiling like the e for the exclusive Roger & Gallet creations. 8 distinguishing his shirt-front, and—giddy | Conqueror of his soul’s convictions. He had e Complimentary upon request e climax—presented to naval Royalty, who imposed, without question, the name Paul- greeted him with a ‘‘We all owe you a debt inium upon his syndicate; their wealth was of gratitude’; and then, in the course of the behind him. The works in Bermondsey, few minutes’ conversation, remarked: “I’d give _ across the river, at present languishing for lack a ° 2h NEW YORK ADDRESS p> anything to have an inventor’s brain like of funds, could now go full-time ahead. In a ; ean ours.” P: f self w ave give ay y 2 spectus of the new company K(© 709 Sixth Avenu Rortoyy yours.” Pandolfo himself would have given _ day or two the prospectus of the ne SCF) ” NOX. | anything to be able to tell him the story would be scattered broadcast. There would be XQ Ei of his first invention. The fervid Angelo a thousand, ten thousand, a hundred thousand impelled; the calm and foreseeing Susan shares cast at her feet. His thoughts ran: G, q \OKK4 restrained. “Accept this and immortality from Victor VAS" ~pP, Coming into the great world, he realized Pandolfo, who is the great Pandolfo, only be- ce the interest excited by his sudden leap from cause his father sold plaster-of-Paris images 12 iy obscurity. Whispers of legends hinted in his _ the streets of London. , ear, fostered his sense of the romantic. He And again: . ua had dropped from the clouds, a presumable “To son io. I am I. And, by God, she AN demi-god. Why undeceive these wondering knows n.” : f ee Se and incredulous folk? To no mortal creature (To be continued in the January issue 7 THE GREAT CHIC OUT-OF-DOORS (Concluded from page 40) is repeated in the socks. This costume is young men have always been picturesque an® illustrated at the lower left on page fifty. impressive in lumberjack shirts of the “out On the same page, and shown above the of the frozen North where men are men’ tyPe costume just described, are several other highly | —shirts made with enormous checks in red and | successful skiing costumes. The one with the black, green and black, or yellow and black | checked borders is cut with breeches that re- They look as if they had been designed for the semble riding-breeches. The costume is of cinema, to be worn in the “Shooting of “* | gray blue knitted fabric with a bordering of McGrew,” but they are actually worn by | red and blue checks. The scarf and close- lumberjacks somewhere. Last year Harpers fitting cap and mittens are of bright red wool Bazar showed a skiing costume a to match the checks. women with one of these shirts used ci At the top of the page is shown a blue and blouse; and last year many women wore eae white striped sweater—tremendously wide at Lake Placid. This year they will . stripes they are—made with white sleeves. smarter. They are nice to wear under The other costume, to the right of this, is all sweater or short fur jacket for cold days, a white with a border of red points. are quite warm enough for active skiing W™ | At Quebec and at the Lake Placid Club, the — out a coat or sweater.

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ZARB jor DECEMBER 1924 3 § “Fiver PEOPLE APPRECIATE THE FINER THINGS OF LIFE AND STRIVE FOR THEIR ATTAINMENT. THEY LEARN TO DISCRIMINATE— TO SELECT THE BEST. THUS WHEN THE MAN OF VISION SEEKS THE BEST IN MOTOR CARS HE FINDS IN THE LOCOMOBILE GRACEFUL BEAUTY, NOISELESS POWER, SUPERIOR FLEXIBILITY, AND DIGNIFIED REFINEMENT WHICH IDENTIFY IT AS THE MOTOR CAR OF ULTIMATE PURCHASE AND LASTING PRIDE /Y LOCOMOBILE THE BEST BUILT CAR IN AMERICA DEMONSTRATION BY APPOINTMENT LOCOMOBILE CO. OF AMERICA - INC .- Bridgeport, Conn.

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ye Olde &, Moderne Yuletide Gay coaching parties—cava- liers on horseback—lords and ladies of the Manor greeting friends and kinfolk before the great fireplace, or at the wide- flung hall portals—thus do we picture the holidays in Mary- land and Virginia in ye olden days. Here the Yuletide tra- ditions of merry England were preciously cherished. Here Christmas was truly a time for joyous merriment. Truly, these debonair cava- liers realized that life was for living, and that the Yuletide was a season for much going and coming, for reunions that weld the bonds of friendship, for gifts that spoke of far lands and places—teas from the In- dies, silks from China, linens from England, and travel chests for milady. Old Manor houses and Yule logs now live only in fancy, save to a few, but the spirit of hospitality and the desire to renew bonds of friendship and kinship persist. Christmas today ismorethan ever aseason of coming and go- ing. We journey back to visit the home circle. The boys and girls come home from school and college. We travel to give as well as to receive the price- less gift of affection. To link, therefore, the spirit of travel with that of giving shows a real appreciation of Christmas. The gift of a Hartmann Wardrobe Trunk is more than agift of utilityand convenience, it is the gift of romance—the gift of anticipation—thesymbol that speaks to our secret am- bitionsand continually beckons to the Romance of the world that always awaits us. Hartmann Trunk Company, Racine, Wisconsin. M. Langmuir Manufacturing Co., Limited., Toronto, Licensed Canadian Manufacturers J.B. Brooks & Co. Birmingham. England, Distributors for Great Britain —g_. — See the Hartmann ® Christmas Spectals at vour dealer or write us direct. — oe 2 OV) NYA Ay RO) Cushion Jop WARDROBE HARPER'S BAZARM i PATOU, A THOROUGHLY MODERN COUTURIER Baron de Mever’s Article (Continued from page 57) sold to make a third attempt—this time com- bining tailoring, dressmaking, and furs. This establishment was to be inaugurated on August first, 1914, but for reasons obvious to every one (remember the fateful date) it only opened to the public in 1918.” House oF PATovu —_ IT your present maison de couture, the one in the rue St. Florentin?” “Kh 6.” “Had your ideas undergone a change after you returned from the war?”’ was my next question. “Very much so,” Mr. Patou replied. “The war has influenced my entire outlook on life in general and, in particular, it taught me how to manage my maison de couture.” “In what way, if I may ask?” And this is the very interesting answer he gave me: “T went to the war, like thousands of other Frenchmen, an ardent patriot, rather re- actionary, but with little knowledge of my compatriots of the lower classes. In the shortest possible time, however, the men- tality and the surprising natural intelligence of the men in my regiment, mostly peasants and ouzriers, conquered me absolutely. Their behavior was admirable. Their common sense in all matters and their warm-hearted- ness were of a kind I had never come across in my own class, much less so among my former associates of Ciro’s and Maxim’s. “After my men realized I really was their friend, I obtained from these simple people the maximum of effort, however dangerous and hard such efforts often were. The war was long and tedious, and for four years I remained an officier de Zouave with the Eastern Army. During those four years I owed to my soldiers the only joys I had, and I became devoted to those simple souls. “When at last demobilization came and I resumed my role of a patron I remembered the lesson my intercourse with them had taught me, and acted accordingly. Having departed in 1914, old fashioned and full of obsolete traditions, I found myself on my return fully equipped to become a chief of modern enterprises. I got to love my staff as I had loved my Zouaves, and I always side with them whenever their claims seem jus- tified to me. A chief should always gain his workmen’s confidence before he can expect from them good work.” A THOROUGHLY MODERN HOUSE ‘** ANOTHER thing the war has taught me is that the success of any enterprise depends on orders being carried out. There- fore, a competent staff is of prime importance. Secondly, it has taught me a certain amount of independence, given to one’s assistants, is essentia!. Most chefs de matsons hold con- trary views, but it is my conviction that a modern business enterprise should be modeled on the lines of an army organization. The chief must give his orders, but must not be expected to bother about the execution of details. He should be free to attend to other matters, consider new ideas, and submit them to his staff after his first orders have been carried out. If the person whose business it is to create and have ideas must also attend to their execution, he will be doomed to failure, for instead of remaining chief of the organization he assumes the rdéle of a superin- tendent.” “Have I ever told you,” I asked, “how much discussion the name of Jean Patou provokes? Some say you are one of the greatest artist-couturiers of the day; others say you are merely a marvelous organisateur. I wonder what you would have to say on this subject.”’ His reply was very typical. “An artist?” he said. “Does any one really suppose I am an artist? I can’t believe it. Will you please say in your article that I don’t consider myself an artist at all. There is absolutely no need of being one in order to be a successful couturier. But what is needed is taste, a sense of harmony, and to avoid eccentricity. It seems to me that common sense and keeping within the limits of good taste are the most essential qualities in good lressmaking and our foremost quality in France is our knowledge of keeping within such limits. “This quality we owe to France herself. She is our mistress, for France is neither the most beautiful country in the world nor the most picturesque. However, no one can deny that France has charm. I dare say all this is climatic. The atmosphere, the people, and their mode of living—for all of it is temperate. Besides, we have a nucleus of intelligence in France not easily matched elsewhere. In this intelligence resides our strength, and in our reticence and rhythm our preponderance jp matters of fashion. An uncivilized being can have no taste, for taste is the result ¢; many generations. Taste is intangible. elusive and yet all important, a supreme and essential! quality for successful dressmaking, on be an artist—no, there is no need for thy Take the Russian people, for instance, their artists have influenced our theatrical cos. tumes_ considerably, especially in color and embroideries, but I cannot recall ever haying heard of any great Russian couturier. - “Let me tell you the story of a professional 4 cyclist of the Paris velodrome who later became a dealer in automobiles. Having made a big fortune, in turn he backed 2 maison de couture located in the Champs Elysées. This man, whose origin was of the lowest, happened to be an excellent business man. He was the owner of great art collec tions, and very popular in artistic circles He commissioned some famous painters and designers to create a series of models, express- ing their ideas of current fashions. These were executed and presented to the public But according to the numerous guests present at the opening, never had a procession of more displeasing and extravagant garments been shown in any fashion establishment This proves my theory—artists are not dressmakers.”’ How MADE MopELs ARE “ AND now, Mr. Patou, let me ask you a very indiscreet question—do you make your own models?” “TIT wouldn’t know how,” he replied. “I couldn’t if I wanted to, for I can’t draw, anda pair of scissors in my hands becomes a danger- ous weapon. Consequently, my organization must differ from most other dressmaking establishments, and I have what I call my laboratory. Here designers are at work pro- ducing sketches both for new models and embroideries. ‘*Months before my collection is even started they are given antique textiles, bits of embroideries, in fact precious documents, to derive inspiration from, with special indica- tions of styles and colorings I wish them to develop. All results are then submitted to me. These are modified, corrected, and improved upon, until they satisfy me absolutely, Only then are they passed on to the modelist with instructions as to materials and color ings, in which these models are to be executed Therefore all models are combined by me and no trials are made without my being present Installed in an armchair, smoking, I watch and criticize the work until each model is perfect. This explains the harmonious en- semble of my collection which, in spite of its apparent diversity, the work of the several designers, and its size, gives an impression of one distinct personality. To produce a collec- tion of three hundred models, I often have to make six hundred.” am glad you give me these details, Mr Patou, for they will interest the readers of Harper’s Bazar very much indeed. Once or twice before I have written articles taking as 4 subject some well-known personality belong- ing to the Paris couture, and you cannot imagine how interesting it is to listen to the different opinions expressed by each one individually on one and the same subject dressmaking.”’ F “‘T remember reading the articles you reler to, but I regret to say that I differ entirely 1 my way of thinking from views expressed by at least one of the personalities you speak of. “In what way, may I ask?” aes “T may have much to say on this subject. he replied. ‘Do you really wish to hear t?”’ ““Of course Ido. Please tell me.” = At “Well, then, I don’t believe—though o! course there are exceptions—that to belong to what is termed /e beau sexe is an advantage for a dressmaker, especially not for a chet 4 maison. Particularly so, when the puironn is young, good looking, and chic. She will, a5 a matter of course, while designing her nev models, consider the effect she would hese produce in these same gowns. To my Way ® thinking this is detrimental to good dress- making, for there is more than just one typ of woman to consider. Women’s styles an¢ women’s figures vary considerably, and all ot these should be taken care of.” a : “On the other hand,” I said, “if I ma venture to interrupt you, a dr ssmaker is smart herself knows the needs of an ele woman so much better than does 4 Besides, she inspires confidence in her so clients. What advantage can there bi ? dressing dowdily, when one’s principal be in life is to create smartness and elegance’ “You may be right,” Mr. Patou answer “but how is it that most great couturieres those whose names are world famed, are (Concluded on page 13-4) But to j At we

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ZARB jor DECEMBER 1924 RN France in d being result of , Clusive ‘ ial essential But to for that, oe, their ; cal cos lor and having fessional q 10 later Having acked a Champs iS of the business | Gi 3 = 3§=PERFUME IS YOUR PERSONALITY’S ters and bald O THE EYES of others, you are as the silk or satin that you wear. To the subtler senses, you are as the perfume that you use. Perfume, then, is your personality’s gown—and like every other gown must come from Paris, where alone in all the world such things are understood. danger e..*s ~ Parfums Guerlain are the invisible but gorgeous aig ) , -: Parisian gowns of lovely personalities. They are created va] 2 : by Monsieur Guerlain— master perfumer of France, who is even 2 . compounds, bottles, and seals his splendours of fra- cats : , } in ey: x her nev } a if : ’ ; - ght id herself -

L’Heure Bleue Elusive— fleeting —like the brief space of time whose name it bears. None but Guerlain could have con- ceived a fragrance so subtle; none but Guerlain could have created it. Bouquet de Faunes Vague... mysterious... like the shadows of the woods where faun and nymph reside. A fragrance held captive ina gorgeous crystal flacon in a handsome leather gift case. Rue dela Paix An odeur of rare charm, created by Guerlain to express the spirit of the world’s smartest thor- oughfare.

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Se ae with an Cdd- raeark NECKLACE T is the Christmas gift that grows more valuable each year as friends and relatives add a pearl or two on holidays and on all gift occasions. By the time your little girl graduates or makes her debut, she will be the proud possessor of a mag’ nificent necklace of genuine Oriental pearls—a_ possession not only of great intrinsic worth—but rich in loving memories. Correspondence invited from dealers only Buy additional peacls for your Add-a-pearl necklaceon this card. It guarantees perfection The Add-a-pearl Co., Chicago pone An emerald green velvet Lanvin robe is lined tissue and edged with ermine. PATOU, A THOROUGHLY MODERN COUTURIER Baron de (Concluded from page 132) almost all of them very simple women, caring =e little about elegance for themselves? “I don’t quite know whom you have in mind,” was my reply, ‘‘for most of the chefs de maisons of the fair sex seem to me very carefully gowned avec beaucoup de recherche The days when such ladies were merely worke rs and not representative are quite out of di ite.’ “Possibly, I know so few of them. Any- way, most great dressmaking houses in France have been created by men.” ‘Does that imply that you think men have better taste than women?’ “I didn’t quite say that,’ replied Mr. Patou. “Only the models designed by men seem to me more to the point and to fulfil their purpose better. After all, for whom do women dress? Isn’t it men they wish to please?” “[ don’t believe that all of them have that view in mind,” I retorted. ‘In fact some very smart women have given me their opinions on this very subject, and quite a number are inclined to think that men need but rarely be considered. ‘There is no object to be truly elegant to please men, as long as one is chic and has good looks,’ said one of them. ‘It is the women, experts in the art of dressing, we take most trouble for. To be considered well dressed by one of these— ah, that is worth living for.’ And I am sure this is the case in many instances. “I don’t at all agree with you, Baron de Meyer. There may be some women who dress so as to produce the envy of their less favored sisters, but the majority adorn themselves in view of masculine admiration. In fact, the success of my house is built on this foundation. My gowns please men. I have heard my friends—and quite often strangers—say to their wives (new clients of mine)—‘ At last you are dressed according to my taste. A man may not bother about details, but he instinctively knows a good line when he sees it. He adores sobriety and beautiful coloring. Being myself very mas- culine, I try to influence my designers in that direction. It is one of the reasons why my clothes usually please the public.” ‘our views on this subject will be of the greatest interest to my readers,” I said. “I shall put them down word for word. But what about elegance in general and good taste? You probably have very similar ideas on such matters as most of the other dressmakers I have, so far, had occasion to write about.’ “Almost, but not quite,’ said Mr. Patou. “T agree about day gowns. These should always be very plain and simple (of course made in very fine materials), but for the evening my point of view is entirely different to theirs. I consider the theories 9 M eyer . JS HARPER’S with silver Worn by Mrs. V. Cross. Article that some of them hold as absolutely disas. trous. They have transformed brilliant casinos and dining-rooms in restaurants and hotels into sad and monotonous places. It kills the atmosphere of joy and _ produces nothing but sadness. As much as I love plainness and simplicity for the day, I con- sider rich and handsome gowns a necessity at night—lovely colors, scintillating and brilliant notes of gaiety as a contrast to men’s dress clothes and their black dinner jackets. “Since 1918 I have been frequently over in London, and while dining at the Embassy Club, or at Ciro’s, I have always been agree- ably surprised by the brightness and gaiets of the dining-rooms. ‘These give an im- pression of elegance. They are luxurious and it was quite a while before | realized what produced this atmosphere. ‘To start with, all men in England wear dress clothes with white waistcoats and white ties; full evening dress, without being colorful nevertheless produces an elegant atmosphere It makes a man look smarter than when he wears a ordinary dinner jacket, which, after all, is but a veston du soir. As to the women I won’t go so far as to say they all of them ar well dressed—certainly not. The minority very smart, while the majority . appallingls dowdy and wears old clothes, but they # without exception are wearing full evening Some even appear in what we c gowns. grande toilette. This ensemble of brilliast color, scintillating beads, and magnificest jewels undoubtedly produces an_impres far more luxurious than a roomful of womel, most of them carefully dressed, it is true, bu wearing little chiffon gowns or simple crt or possibly satin frocks in discreet and sul dued shades.” “Haven’t you many your clients?” I asked. sider them well dre ssed? on this subject?” : “T believe the Amcrican woman to * almost the smartest woman in the world ¢ present. Her figure is ideal for cae fashions. She is beautifully limbed Me ankles are long and slim) and it is needless ! mention her beauty and her charm, for are proverbial. I happened to be in He York twelve years ago, and was already the struck by the perfect feminine silhouette encountered along Fifth Avenue. xe “T am on the point of leaving for i York. I start almost at once and am loo forward with much pleasure to seeing Tt numerous American clients in their 0” wonderful country. Judging by _ thew confer their patronage on my Paris establ f ment, I am anticipating delig! itful visions ¢ grace and loveliness during my all too" visit to the United States.” Americans amob: “And do you 00! What is your opinic!

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ly disas- brilliant en agree: id gaiety an im uxurious realized ind wear nd white colorful nosphere when he them art inority 5 palling! they ai evenilg t we Call brilliant ignificent npressio: ple crepe and su for DECEMBER 1924 WHAT IS MORE DELICATELY FITTED TO CONVEY SENTIMENT TO LOVELY WOMAN THAN THE PERFUMES OF FIORET? LES PARFUMS DES JARDINS DE ; UPON REQUEST A BOOKLET j DESIGNED AND EXECUTED IN PARIS WILL BE SENT YOU, DESCRIBING THE PERFUMES OF FiORET AND INTERPRETING THE MOODS WHICH THEY CREATE ADDRESS DEPT11,677 5 AVE_N. Y. Get Bue PARIS — NEUVILLY

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ordon HOSIERY

BROWN DURRELL COMPANY | New York a

Making Christmas Last Long Farner wisely solved his Christ- mas shopping problem when he bought Gorpon Hosrery for the whole family. But how hard for them to wait until Christmas to break the string! For mother, the lustrous, heavy H300 and H600 which have given her such wonderful service in the past; for sister, the more frivolous chiffons for the gay Christmas parties; while little Bobbie and Jane have visions of the sturdy wools that withstand the hardships of rough out-door play. The completeness of the Gordon line offers a wide choice of satisfying gifts, for men, women and children, which will still be givingservice long after the Christmas season has been forgotten. Gordon Hosiery - Forest Mills Underwear Boston

HARPER’S of ——— <x —__

OOOO DOD DODO

A RETURN TO THE EMPIRE By EVERETT NLY history and decoration repeat themselves; so now, having worked our various ways through the sophistica- tions of Louis XV. and Louis XVI. and the affected simplicities of the Directoire, we find descending upon us, and _ logically enough, the masculine sturdiness of the First Empire, tempered, it is true, with a lightness of treatment unheard of in the year 1800 but with its original Spartan line and love of classic ornament. For, as in the old days, plaster simulates marble and veneer a solid wood, but the color schemes of the moment are unique in the gamut of decoration and follow their predecessors only vaguely. The traditional red and green of that horror of all decoration, the Victorian Empire, has given way to the subtler values of mauve and brown, yellow and violet, terra-cotta and blue of the original period. And, too, the grandeurs of Napoleon himself, authentic as they are, have given way to the equally authentic but more simple examples of the period. The printed toiles de Jouy, the striped silks, and the mar- bled papers lend themselves more happily to our present-day gaieties than the somber bro- cades and velvets of the Monarchy. In furniture, the natural walnut of certain Italian pieces is favored and never is mahog- any of the rosewood variety allowed to appear. The remarkable golden orange of Empire mahogany, unknown as it is to most ama- teurs in decoration, was a perfect foil for the dull gilt of the ever-present mountings of ormolu. One daring contemporary, con fronted with pieces of the reddish color, has been known to solve the problem with a coat of white paint. The result is startling and amusing but scarcely Napoleonic. Let us reserve paint as a sedative for Victorian horrors, for, after all, the original interiors of this period were sparsely furnished, and with one or two .;ood pieces and the adroit use of authentic accessories, a satisfactory effect can easily be gained. PROPER EMPIRE BACKGROUND THE O BEGIN with, a wall of clear yellow painted plaster, leaving the amusing but chilly marbleized effects for tiny hallways and foyers that can afford them. The floor must be painted green-black to afford a proper bor- der for the Aubusson carpet which until it is *“caught,”’ as my friend Alexander says, may have a plain black understudy. Marbleized woodwork is possible in the same tone as the wall, but must never, except in the case of an extremely large room, contrast definitely. If it is essentia!, simple candle appliqués may be used, but never in quantity—it is better to rely on the copies of old bow-llottes with their severe tin shades with perhaps a simple old “lustre’’ for general lighting. For curtains, one of the excellent reproduc- tions of old satin in old violet or faded red; they should be made simply, hanging in straight folds to the floor. Furniture, aside from the inevitable stuffed chairs and sofa for comfort, presents varied possibilities, depend- ing chiefly upon the success with which one can hunt these treasures. Given a commode of old mahogany with its gilded mounts and ebony caryatides, a pair of Neo-Grec chairs with stuffed seats and a round tripod table

GRAY LINSLEY inset, perhaps, with leather, a start can be made. The stuffed pieces might be covered with an old yellow velvet, the smaller chair seats in a violet-printed linen, varied with an occasional wreathed brocade of the period, of if luck is with us, an Aubusson of the proper design. Behind the sofa which takes its place be. tween the fireplace and the window, a low screen covered with old brown and violet toile de Jouy will make a useful and decora. tive backbround. Arranged with the chairs will be small tripod tables with marble or marbleized tops, and that useful substitute for an old bouillotte, the electrified Roman lamp, can be arranged with a shade of tin or one in that manner of a more luminous sub- stance. A true Empire console table may make the nucleus of a wal!-grouping to bal- ance the mantlepiece, not the American ver- sion with its coarse stumpy columns, but the classic sort supported by carved caryatides or swans, gilded or ebonized. And we must not forget that an old circular washstand of the period may now be charmingly transplanted to the drawing-room to hold potted flowers and ivy. Flower-tables of the epoch areall too rare, but that is as well, perhaps, as they were often mammoth affairs of three tiers holding successively flowers, a basin of goldfish, and a statuette of Flora or Ceres. If the hunt produces one of the old “ba teau”’ beds in mahogany, it can be trans formed quite easily into a day-bed by the addi- tion of a properly made seat and upholstery. Its natural placing, in an alcove, can scarcely be followed out here, but against a wall flanked by a pair of gueridons holding lamps or ivy, it will make a charming and authentic grouping. To vary the monotony of natural wood and upholstery, we may use ore of the accurate reproductions of the old bergéres, painted gray-white and covered with striped silk. Empire armchairs geierally support a horde of winged chimeras and swans, but these too had best be left to the grandeurs of state apartments. Chaises-longues, however, were most often simple in structure and are useful additions to the modern interior. THe ORNATE EMPIRE ORNAMENT Hi number an] varietiy of Empire oma- ments is endless, ranging, from the pairs 0 gilded porcelain urns to the vast and elaborate clocks of ormolu, of which, apparently, almost the entire output of the period has survived. Gilt-bronze ca/eliéres with their mirrored trays and convenient center-handles, tole and bronze-mounted jardinieres of endless variety, candelabra of black and gilt with their graceful cornucopia lights; a!! these dispose themselves naturally and conveniently once the setting provided. And having disposed ourselves pleasantly among the severities of the Empire we remember suddenly that this must be the of our excursions into the antique! For after Napoleon, what was there? Unless, of course, some one discovers some real purpose beauty in the Victorian, which in spite of all its recent advocates remains as lumpy ! stolid as the traditional English pudding. There have been, however, some very remark- able puddings!

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t can be covered ler chair with an riod, or, € proper bstitute Roman f tin or tides or ust not of the Dlanted flowers all too

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138 How Pretty Teeth affect the smile—teeth freed from film See what one week will do The open smile comes naturally when there are pretty teeth to show. But dingy teeth are kept concealed. That is That is The difference lies in film. what stains and discolors. what hides the tooth luster. Let us show you, by a ten-day test, how millions now fight that film. Why teeth are dim Your teeth are coated with a viscous film. You can feel it now. It clings to teeth, gets between the teeth and stays. No ordinary tooth paste can effec- tively combat it. The toothbrush, therefore, leaves much of it intact. That film is what discolors, not the It often forms the basis of a dingy Millions of clouded in that way teeth. coat. teeth are The tooth attacks Film also holds ferments and forms acids. food substance which It holds the acids’ in contact with the teeth to cause decay. Germs constantly breed in it. They, with tartar, are the chief cause of pyorrhea. Thus most tooth troubles : film, are now traced to film, and very few people escape them. ' than Must be combated Dental science has long been seeking a daily film | Pepsadent Protectthe Enamel Pepsodent dis- integrates then re- movesit withan agent tar softer enamel. Never use a film combatant which contains harsh grit. combatant. In late years two effective found. Authori- them by leading dentists methods have been p roved Now nearly all the world over are urging ties have many careful tests. their daily use. A new-day tooth paste has been per- fected, made to comply with modern requirements. The name is Pepsodent. These two great film combatants are embodied in it. It goes further Other effects are now considered es- sential. Pepsodent is made to bring them all. It multiplies the salivary flow. It mul- tiplies the starch digestant in the saliva. That is there to digest starch deposits on teeth so they will not remain and form acids. It multiplies the alkalinity of the saliva. That is Nature’s neutralizer for acids which cause decay. Thus every application || gives these tooth-protect- ing forces multiplied effect. ian: |} lhese things mean whiter, || cleaner, safer teeth. They mean natural mouth condi- better tooth tions, protec- tion. This ten-day test will convince you by what you see and feel. Make it for your own sake, thendecidewhaz is best. The New-Day Dentifrice You'll see and feel Send this coupon for a 10-Day Tube. Note how clean the teeth feel after using. Mark the absence of the vis- cous film. See how teeth become whiter as the film-coats disappear. CUT OUT THE COUPON NOW 10-DAY TUBE FREE | THE PEPSODENT COMPANY Dept. 363, 1104 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago, II. Mail 10-Day Tube of Pepsodent to HARPER’S BaAzy A new vanity case of enameled ivory with the lipstick conven- iently at the top form- ing a little handle. NEWEST ADORNMENTS FOR SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY HEN Fashion decrees simplicity of Wiz: for the costume the exclamation point falls upon the accessories with a result which is decidedly Paris, for jewels become infinitely more alluring ‘when their sparkle has for a foil the background of a costume of artful simplicity. So it is that this season the wearing of jewelry has become a fine art, and jewels are chosen not merely for their beauty and intrin- sic value, but for their relation to the in- dividuality of the wearer and to her-costume. Jewels achieve new sophistication by accen- tuating the distinction of the unelaborated costume. Since tendencies in costume are inevitably reflected in jewels, we notice this season neck- laces, bracelets, rings, vanities, and other pieces of jewelry almost barbaric in their splendor of color, indicative of the exotic and Oriental note in dress. Illustrative of the color emphasis in jewelry is the vogue for white with a touch of red that is carried out in bracelets of diamonds and rubies, necklaces of crystal and the rare dark coral, sang-de-beuf, and other combinations. A new way of achieving color is enamel, vanity and cigaret cases of unusual artistry being evolved from cleverly designed enamels. A NovEL BRACELET AND RING HE rule of three is followed by Cartier in a novelty bracelet and ring of gold, which, besides their triple interlocking construction, are made of three colors of gold—white, green, and red. The bracelet is composed of three bangles which hang loosely one from the other and are permanently united. They roll easily over the arm, and when worn close together give the effect of a twisted rope of gold with the three different colors weaving in and out. The ring has the same principle. These bracelets and rings are shown in plain gold, and also in a ribbed effect. CORDS FOR WRIST WATCHES ASHIONABLE wrist watches are worn on black silk cords instead of on ribbons. These cords start double at the sides of the watches, are held by jeweled slides, and be- come one cord at the back of the wrist. Diamond and platinum watches are more elaborate and fanciful than before, both in shape and in application of the jeweled motifs. One wrist watch noted of platinum and diamonds with applications of sang-de-bvuf coral outlined with black enamel, had a novel fastening arrangement. This was an inch long deployant buckle of black enamel, which, upon pressing, opened out three-fold into long A bracelet snake watch of diamonds and sapphires. gold hinges, allowing the watch to be slipped over the wrist. The hinges then folded back under the buckle. WatTcu HE tendency is confirmed for watches to become more and more jewel-like, an! even to hide their identity entirely, as in the case of the ‘“‘Snake Watch,” a creation of Cartier. This wrist watch, whose band is made of square-cut sapphires interspersed with square-cut diamonds, gives the effect of a rich bracelet, with no trace of a watch. There is an oval center ornament, incrusted with pave diamonds which are ingeniously set so that their lines follow the markings of a snake’s head. Upon pressing the mouth of the snake, the diamond case springs back and reveals a tiny but perfect watch beneath. A UNIQUE SNAKE MAKING Four’ BRACELETS NEW note in bracelets is the tendency for the flexible jeweled bracelet to become wider. Cartier shows a three-quarter inch flexible diamond bracelet which can be worn, if desired, taking the place of three or four of the conventional narrow bracelets. This, he says, has developed from the custom of add- ing one bracelet to another on the arm. For the practice of alternating and combining diamond, ruby, emerald, and sapphire bands, however, the narrow diamond bracelets are still in favor. BoTH FFS! PROVISION FOR KINDS OF PU CHARMINGLY exotic bit of color may be added to the costume by carrying the combination vanity and cigaret case in the new Paris-favored red coral shade. Its ¢y- lindrical shape not only meets the unfailing desire for something new, but gives infinitely more room, providing two compartments one for cigaret and the other for vanity neces sities. The trimmings of platinum and ros diamonds glow richly in this colorful setting of red coral. QuAINT Ivory VANITY HE richness of mellowed ivory is Sug gested in a new Cartier vanity, ivory - enameled, which introduces a note of color through a small design in an Indian motif, done in blue, with a touch of other bright colors. There need be no fumbling around he a lipstick, for this dainty accessory — its lipstick outside, at the top of the chain by which it is held, so it is always av ailable for use at an instant’s notice! f C

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{ZAR OR [TY e slipped ded back TCH atches to ike, an] as in the ation of band is prspersed ffect of a 1. There ted with ly set so igs of a nouth of yack and ath. LETS lency for become ter inch be worn, r four of This, he of add- m. For mbining 4 bands, lets are yp DECEMBER 1924 lor may ying the » in the Its cy- infailing finitely rtments. y neces ind rose | setting TY 1s Sug ry white of color 1 motif, - bright yund for carries hain by able for IGHT EVENINGS of continuous dancing in the same pair of extra sheer silk stockings a sheer, they lasted not one but eight evenings of exhibition dancing! No stockings of Irene Castle’s had ever done that before! Even though she was content to throw her stockings away after one evening of exhibition dancing she had found it hard enough to get stockings that satisfied her. For with the eyes of a great audience following her gifted feet, Irene Castle cannot afford to risk a sudden hole or run in her sheer silk stockings. Then she found stockings extra sheer, flawless, that did the undreamed-of — lasted her through eight evenings of danc- ing! And they were Corticelli No. 308. Now she gets them in every shade to match all her lovely dancing frocks! In Daybreak, Cherub, Maple Cream, Silver and Peach — exquisite new colors so dificult to get yet so vitally important to complete her costumes. They are made of the same silk that years ago made Corticelli thread silk famous for its strength and elasticity. Today this even, lustrous silk gives you the clear shimmering stockings you have looked for with no “‘streaks”’ from un- evenness in the silk. And the same elas- tic silk guards Corticelli stockings from much of thestrain that usually causes runs. 7 7 7 Anp you will find every weight and style you need — sheer stockings No.319 and No. 322 are favorites as well as medium sheer No. 310. No. 324 is a medium weight stocking and No. 347 is the one “service” silk hose of the country. And for the newest evening stocking such as Paris is wearing ask to see Corticelli Bas de Tulle No. 141. All the newest Fall colors are to be found in Corticelli Hosiery—in shades of grey are Nickel, Stone and Chinchilla. In shades of Brown are Beaver, Sandalwood, Bunny and Mandalay. And Mandarin, Rosewood and Nude are three special new shades. A special offer When you buy stockings, what are you most concerned with? What, if any, is your criticism of silk stockings? Let us help you with your particu- lar silk hosiery problem! Check the items in which you are most interested on the coupon and we will send you a booklet that will help you solve the problems. The Corticelli Silk Company, 231 Nonotuck Street, Florence, Massachusetts. Cortice [li SILK HOSIERY FINE g Tue Corrice.i Sirk Co. 331 Nonotuck St., Florence, Mass. Please send me, free of charge, the Corticelli Hosiery booklet, in- dicated by the subjects checked: r In buying stockings I am pri- marily interested in their color . their sheen their service 4 GOR ec ce eee * GB I find that in wearing silk stock- ings, frequently ramp come. ....+.+.- O the seams split . . . . 0 holes come above heel . 0 a fuzzy look comes after a few washings . . .. O Name... Address. . City. State. .

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140 Try this new make-up secret Here is what foreign beauties think is the perfect foundation for make-up: First, the usual application of cold cream. After removing it as usual, pat Eau de Cologne—No. 4 lightly over the face and allow to evaporate. This re- moves surplus cream, closes pores, fresh- ens and tightens the skin, keepingit firm. It gives the complexion a smooth, fine texture, ideal for even, effective make-up. Most important, Eau de Cologne pre- vents shine—positively—even when the first freshness of make-up wears off. Try this Ve Oriytnct satel Crergneniene Eau de Cologue m9 A famous cosmetie secret You, too, may have a lovely skin ... firm, with new colour. The method of famous court beauties N the royal courts of Europe will be found the fairest faces, the most wholesome, beautiful com- plexions in the world. There, too, cosmetic secrets will be found, unknown to women of the newer civilizations. This tells one of the most famous cosmetic secrets Vienna, Madrid. Simple, yet one which gives unparalleled results. known to the beauties of Paris, Try this new way a week, and you will never re- turn to old-time make-up methods. This new way is really very old. You simply use Eau de Cologne—No. 4 with your make-up as told above. It gives more pleasing natural effects—a firmer, clearer skin . . . It banishes blemishes, closes pores harmlessly, dinination perspiration and “shine.” Eau de Cologne dressing table uses. No. 4 has a thousand intimate Its fragrance is delightful. In the bath it is a stimulating restorative. As a per- sonal deodorant it is unequalled. Dainty women pre- fer it to all other toilet waters. It aids immaculacy, lends charm and freshness. Many have imitated the only genuine and original Eau de Cologne — No. 4. Today, for the first time since War stopped imports 1n 1914, 1t may again be had. Insist upon the bottle and carton illustrated. Go now to your druggist or department store . get Eau de Cologne —No. 4. Use it in the man- ner suggested for a week. You will never again be without it on your dressing table. HE name Eau de Cologne is so famous that many do not realize that it exclusively applies to the cosmetic toilet water made since 1709 by the family of Johann Maria Farina. Importations have just been resumed after 10 years when the war pre- vented its manufacture. For more that 200 years this famous cosmetic has been the choice o world’s royalty. From among the many royal warrants granted Eau de Cologne, the following are representative: Edward VII King of England Emperor Napoleon III Leopold I King of Belgium Alphons XII King of Spain Louis I King of Portugal George I King of Greece The Tenno of Japan Christian VIII King of Denmark Emperor Francis JosephI Pedro II Emperor of Brazil Charles I King of Roumania Genuine Eau de Co- logne is sold only in the package as illustrated. At better shops every- where. Insist on the original and genuine. 2-ounce bottle, 65c OF HONGR SINCE [709 -, 4-ounce bottle, $1.25 tan de Cologne 8-ounce bottle, $2.00 SERVICE LABORATORIES, INC., CHICAGO Sole Importers and Distributors for the U. S. A. Ce HARPER’S BAZAR en Bronze portrait bust of Benito Mus- solint by Nancy Cox-McCormack. AN AMERICAN SCULPTOR WHO CHARMED ROME The terra-cotta portrait of Lidia Rismondo. Signora N AMERICAN sculptor, a woman of A uncommon charm and ability, has re- cently been notably honored in Rome, both in commissions from distinguished Ital- ians and in the placing of her work in im- portant Italian exhibitions. \ most interesting and valuable opportu- nity came to Nancy Cox-McCormack when she was privileged to model the magnificent head of the great Italian leader, Benito Mussolini, which was exhibited this fall in New York at shall we say her “‘one-man’’exhibition?—at the Seligman Galleries. In her own medium Mrs. McCormack is an historian, and through her art she is perpetuating the romantic story of the Italian Fascisti in the bronze head of Mussolini. The modeling was done at the residence of the Fascist leader in Rome during the hour of midday repose following his luncheon, and while the activity of political life necessitated many gg to the work, it was finally completed in July, 1923, and Mussolini scratched his name into the side of the model, the first replica of which, in bronze, is in his possession. Two other replicas are now in American collections—one in the Fine Arts Museum at Philadelphia, and one in the col- lection of Mr. Max Pam of Chicago. Mr. \ugustus C. Gurnee of Paris owns a third, which will eventually become the property of the Petit Palais. On exhibition also were other commissions executed by Mrs. McCormack in Rome, which included a bronze portrait bust of Senator Giaccomo Boni, the internationally known Italian archeologist, a terra-cotta bust of Signora Lidia Rismondo, the beautiful and cultured widow of an Italian officer who lost his life in Austria, and, of special interest perhaps to Americans, the bronze portrait of Henry P. Fletcher, American Ambassador to Italy. Mrs. McCormack also made a portrait of Ezra Pound in bronze when she was in Paris, that was shown with her other work. An unusual and highly interesting feature of the exhibition was a chess set modeled for Mr. Eames MacVeagh of Chicago. One group ——— meena Henry P. Fletcher, the Ameri- can Ambassador to Italy. of chessmen is in bronze, representing Philip II. of France and his retinue, while the second group is in silver, portraying Richard Coeur de Lion of England and his men. The turrets of the Chateau de Chinon, where these kings played chess before going on the third Cru- sade, were the models after which the castles were molded. | drawing of Nancy Cox-McCormack done in Rome by Hodnik, a well-known Russian artist. for ee CY — 4

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ZAR operty issions which iilip ond rde s of ings ‘rus tles for DECEMBER 1924 Twelve was too many! This planning a family dinner wasn't so simple after all. tance. —whew! family. Is your home adequately ERHAPS you, too, have been surprised, when planning a fam- ily gathering, to find that your silver- ware would not go round. But it is quite unnecessary to try to get along without enough silver for this and other entertaining you like to do. Certainly expense need not deter you from its purchase, for 1847 Rogers Bros. Silverplate is most rea- sonable in price. And “1847 Rogers Bros.’’ comes in every kind of piece you could desire—oyster forks, salad forks, bouillon spoons, ice cream forks, orange spoons and many serving pieces. Each will satisfy you Betty was blessed with relations—six of them within inviting dis- Jack’s father and mother and four aunts and uncles must surely come. “I'welve Twelve was too many. They hadn’t silverware enough. There wasn’t even enough of it to entertain their own supplied with silverware? with its beauty. Each is famous for its durability. Purchase to-day, in half-dozens or dozens, the pieces you need most. When you have need for more, you can get themeasily. Your dealer al- ways has the newer 1847 Rogers Bros. patterns in his stock. May we send you a copy of our booklet Z-25, “Etiquette, Entertaining and Good Sense,’ with authoritative table settings made tn the Good Housekeeping Studio of Furnishings and Decorations? You will find it full of suggestions for successful entertaining. Write for it to-day. INTERNATIONAL SILVER Co., MERIDEN, CONN. 1847 ROGERS BROS. SILVERPLATE T7) Sol Mee]

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The “<Orest of Quality’ § Distinétive ©F¥ oorwear FAULTLESS FITTING

e@MORRECT CSTYLES Cfor the Holiday Season ow and After TWraarever your requirements, Dororny Dopp pre- sents the indispensable styles for all occasions—new, faultless-fitting models for walking, street and dress wear; a few here, many more at your dealers’— distinctive footwear interpreting the latest tendencies of fashion — piquant, tasteful, undeniably correct, with your satis- faction assured by the Dororny Dopp name onevery pair. AT LEADING STORES $5.50 to $10.00

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cA smart new pump of Piccadilly Tan Catr, with woven strip of Bracken Catr around top and tip. “Medium wood heels and flexible soles

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Appresses of Dorotuy Dopp - 4 gencies, and an illustrated brochure of sele&ed styles will

be mailed on request Fo DOROTHY DODD SHOE COMPANY 307 CENTER STREET 0. S.A. , | The Dororuy Dopp signature (Trade Mark Reg. U.S, Pat. Off.) tt és stamped on every pair as your assurance of faultless fitting Boston, MAssACHUSETTs,

The correctly Madison, one of the typical new solutions of the dining problem. and luxuriously appointed restaurant in thi ENTS FOR THE RESTAURANT HOSTESS By RUTH HO IS the successful hostess of to- day? Isit not she who understands the happy art of executing an im- promptu luncheon intime, a diverting little dinner on-the-spur-of-the-moment, for not more than four or six? But although the mien and gesture which accompany this sans géne entertaining may be as offhand as one chooses, it is the initiate in restaurant lore alone who may dare it with impunity. She will know that the Long Island acquaintance whom she has encountered at her milliner’s, and whom she has pressed to lunch with her, will have been separated by four hours of time and fifty miles of brisk motoring from a modernist’s breakfast of coffee and fresh fruit. For her no casual salad and French pastry offered in either a LORD JENKINS Her eye travels down the card and with a attitude of concession to the tastes of her guest, but without the n nagging reiteration of “Do you like—?” and “Do you car for—?” ‘‘I wonder what that is!” she issues the order for:

Supréme de Fruits (Eufs pochés Imperatrice Escalope de Ris de Veau en Papillote Velonte de Petits Pois Pommes Lorette Soufflé Rothschild Café des Princes What more refreshing than this first cou in the face of either snow or spring suns shin

glorified tea-room or a bustling hotel, but an artfully designed luncheon of no less than four courses served in the reposeful intimacy of a highly atmospheric restaurant would be the cordant note. One has but to whisk about the corner from our American rue de la Paix and—lo, the reposeful intimacy of a highly atmospheric restaurant awaits one. The patron enters its walnut-paneled reception hall as she might enter the home of a hospitable but invisible host. Here in this latter Jacobean setting, she finds all the quiet charm and dignity of a private house, yet at the raising of a finger she may command the super-delicacies of two hemispheres and a cuisine and service to delight the soul of the fastidious. \ table for two, just far enough away from an excellent orchestra, perhaps near a shelter- ing pillar, may be what the hostess chooses.

this long-stemmed crystal container banked with cracked ice and then filled t repletion with every fruit known to mal The poached egg which follows, on its bed finely chopped goose’s liver, provokes an appreciative appetite into a more thorough enjoyment later on of perfectly esc: allope sweetbreads served piping hot in a cts] paper jacket and delightfully supplement by green peas and by potatoes (Fren h fri and presented in a quaint little lattice basket made of potate straws). And just here is where the dis cerning hos tess plays her supreme card of exquisit discrimination. Does she offer her gues soon to emerge into a winter temperatur , soon to confront the bleak winds of 4 Lone Island-bound resident, an iced desert? Het gastronomic understanding soars (Concluded on page

} hign

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LNT d with ; Cs of her reiteratior you ca she issues sunshine, me DECEMBER 1924 143 —— MISTRESS: “DO YOU THINK OF ANYTHING ELSE BEFORE I LEAVE, YVETTE?” MALD: “YES, MADAME, ONE THING—BUT I DON’T LIKE TO SPE\K ABOUT IT.” [ Listerine used as a mouth wash quickly overcomes halitosis (unpleasant breath). |

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144 Lybis *‘Beaute’’ Combination Set Three pieces. Per- fume, Toilet Water and Face Powder. mas packages in strikinglybeautiful American Beauty colorings. Vulende's Most Precious Gift —Beauty ! Christm as! The time of year when you long to give happiness to those for whom you care. And what gift is so certain to make glad the feminine heart, as Luxor Requisites—the unfailing choice of America’s beautiful women. Their glowing charm of color—their exqui- site packaging —the inimitable allure of their perfumes and toiletries—make Luxor Gift Boxes the perfect messenger of your Yuletide remembering. In wide variety, each bearing its gift of natural beauty, they await your delighted choosing. Do your Luxor Shopping early. LUXOR Limited Perfumers PARIS CHICAGO NEW YORK ISITES CHARM TOILET REQl OF ENDURING aixor “‘Ideal’’ Come bination «5 pieces t Wate and Compact. Xmas packages in Grange and Blac ry or Rouge Parfait — the \ nm ly n America eel and omental clinging Luxor ~ 4 Complexion Powderfind perfect “4 setting and easy accessibility in this, the only gold-plated, © compact selling for HINTS FOR THE RESTAURANT HOSTESS Ruth Lord (Concluded from page 142) such provincialism. She orders Soufflé Rothschild followed by Café des Princes; the one lightly fluffy in consistency and steamingly hot, the other deliciously, pun- gently black and yet more steamingly hot. AGAIN, there is the necessity of lunching well but expeditiously in order that one may bridge to one’s satisfaction the interval between shopping and a matinée or sym- phony. Either of the following menus will please an exigent hostess and a critical guest: Scallops Bonne Femme Escalopine of Veal Sauté Spinach in Cream Pot de Créme Chocolat Café Cup Tomato Broth Emincé of Chicken St. Germaine Romaine Salade Compote of Fruit Every now and then there is an unusual call on the ingenuity of the constructor of delec table repasts. Suppose her to receive a cable from a trans-Atlantic friend begging her to extend a_ not ably American welcome to a foreign visitor! Be he or she young or old, noble or royal, political or literary, no hospi- tality will seem more novel, more entertain- ing than a luncheon that is typically of the locus—as: Grape Fruit Supréme Cup Clam Broth Breast of Guinea Hen Sauté Virginia Ham Corn au Gratin, Sweet Potatoes Glactées Alligator Pear Salad Pumpkin Pie Café \ yet more difficult achievement may confront the menu-wise hostess; she may tind on her hands a guest who lunches and dines always within the austere limits set Jenkins’ \\ a \\ HARPER’S BAZAR Article by an expert dietitian. It would be indeed a heartlessly scientific gorgon who could object to so gentle a dissipation as: Chicken Broth with Rice Broiled English Sole Mustard Butter Broccoli, Hollandaise Vanilla Custard But one dines as well as lunches; how does an accomplished restaurant hostess order a short dinner? She could not do better than: Caviar Petite Marmite Filet of Sole, Madison Caille en Cocotte aux Raisins Salade Soufflé Glacé Beatrice Friandises Café If she and a group of guests have a full two hours before them in which to dine and smoke, then: Caviar Malosal au Blinis Potage Germiny Sole Anglaise Sautée aux Amandines Faisan Roti Sur Canapé Haricots Verts Gelée de Groseille Mousse de Jambon en Aspic Romaine Salade Soufflé Glacé, Madison Friandises ‘afé One question more: How does one learn this delightful art of ordering with skilful ease from a carte du jour? The neophyte in exquisite restaurant entertaining should lunch and dine several times each week under the tactfully expert direction of a master in gastronomics if she would become indeed finishea restaurant hostess fe SC

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for DECEMBER 1924 145 Hand in Hand with Fashion leed a object y does der a than: : “Delysia ef The new Whiting &> “Davis Vanity Mesh Bag a full le and “, a Gifts That last EsH ‘ WEY SSE pe eille So Necessary ‘ @ Dear to every woman’s heart is the gift of a WHITING & Davis Mesh ‘Bag ~ so dainty, beautiful and useful, the final necessary touch. Here indeed is the Gift of Gifts for Christmas. The Whiting & Davis "Delysia’’ > The Whiting & Davis ‘Utility’ > CONTAINING two mirrors, powder com- silk-lined and with vanity mirror pact and rouge, each in its own compatt- IN THE dainty depths of its silken folds ment, while beneathwma separate little Milady finds ample room for those inti- place of itself for handkerchief or change. mate articles so necessary = while her mir- The whole so light and smart as it hangs ror now awaits her pleasure with but the from its silver bracelet strap across the opening of her mesh bag. Wrist. In tapestry enameled mesh she may have colors to harmonize with her costume, or her wish may be for one in silver, gold, or the lovely blending of sunset mesh. So LIKE Mother’s Whiting & Davis Mesh Bag is the “Baby Peggy,” especially designed to delight the hearts of little girls this Christmas. Priced to match its tiny owner, it may be had with silken top and in enameled mesh of different colors, also gold and silver plated. "es OO OE ete. ,, ~ LEADING jewelers and jewelry departments, everywhere, have a , : Seer See Re eS SS complete line of Whiting & Davis Mesh Bags awaiting your : selection, at prices ranging from $5 to $500. Send for our booklet It will aid you in making a choice. WHITING & Davis COMPANY Utility”’ "Baby Peggy” sa sed i , Dept. A-11, Plainville, Norfolk County, Massachusetts One of the new Whiting > Davis Mesh Bags, In Canada, Sherbrooke, Quebec silk-lined, with vanity mirror Whitin 1g Y Davis Mesh Bags Special Sales Period at Your Jeweler’s, December 1 to 15

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146 CD Ofge 2}ppeanng in the fine c your throat? Under the expert guidance of Dorothy Gray, famous Skin Analyst and Beauty Sculptor, you can win back the youthful contour for your face and neck so essential to feminine charm and loveliness. Dorothy Gray’s scientific method produces these remark- able results, because it reaches into the tissues of the skin and the underlying muscles, strengthening and_ toning them. It is truly amazing how quickly the texture, color and firmness of the skin improve and respond to this unique Sculptural Patting Process, when used in conjunction with Dorothy Gray’s Preparations. You can follow this treatment in your own home, pre- cisely as it is given by Dorothy Gray experts in her New York Studios, by sending for her ‘Home Treatments” and “The Story of Dorothy Gray’”—Fill out. the Consultation Card below and those booklets will be mailed to you at once. DOROTHY \ complete vanity case, covered with black wal rus and lined with rubberized silk. Contains a good-sized mirror and ten Dorothy Gray Prepara including cleansing cream, skin tonic, lissue Cream or Special Skin Food, Russian As tringent Cream, Astringent lotion, face and lip and powder *rice complete is $12.50 tions rouge, Another vanity case in metal, with a brilliant black lacquered finish and containing seven Dorothy Gray beauty) ids, costs $4.50. For Cleansing the Skin Cleansing Cream - Around the Eyes a Patte D'Oic - For Lines 75 Gray's Pour Dorothy 31.50 For Use Instead of Water— Dorothy Gray's For Thin Face—Special Skin Food Fat- o : " Orange lower Skin Tonic - §$ .85-$1.75 tening Cream - - - - $1.00-31.75 For Delicate Skin Tissue Cream, a non For Relaxed Muscles—Russian Astringent fattening skin food for dry skin Cream tightens and corrects relaxed mus- $1.00-$1.75 cles, lifts drooping contour 5 Dorothy Gray FACIAL AESTH 753 CFith Avenues corore nent Cw and | = Atlantic City 1643 Boardwalk 1 | i] Flabbiness Weak Muscles CONSULTATION CARD couatae 9O**T") Si m ply teed Pad Muscles aa s>heck OPF c } AR MISS GRAY—Will you y heceonditions Double Chin _ a send me your books and for whic h you pe — q = tr at once, telling me wish relie and is — po Rew preparations you mail to Dorothy Bec igns OF oan just Ww -ure the conditions Gray, 753 Fifth First ‘ o 28 prescribe to ¢ -ked Ave., New York slight droop | that I have chec . Ave.» slight, dr : A dry and harsh Oo ‘ Skin ee Enlarged pores:| | sine and blackheads . ‘ — Tan and Wrinkles; in dac SS ’ sallow skin State H-12 _ sallo City SS ee Three very charming dresser accessories. with jolly figure, $16.50. HARPER’S BAZAR Jade colored china perfume burner Tall atomizer designed in red and clear glass, $18. Pink alabaster powder-jar, $12, and swan’s-down puff to fit, $1.65. LET US HELP YOU DO YOUR CHRISTMAS SHOPPING new beauty method, the way to get the best results is to follow directions. Here are some directions for Harper’s Bazar readers in any quarter of the globe, who wish assis- tance in the pleasurable, yet often taxing, task of selecting Christmas gifts for family and friends. [: LEARNING a new game or in applying a GIvE ACCURATE DESCRIPTION [NCL DED in this issue of Harper’s Bazar is a host of gift suggestions attractive to both donors and recipients. Select from among these and write to Harper’s Bazar Shopping Service, 119 West 4oth Street, New York City, clearly describing the articles which you wish us to purchase for you, nam- ing the page on which they were seen, the price, the color and size, and other facts which will enable us to make a purchase that will be satisfactory. CHECKS PAYABLE TO BAZAR ITH your letter enclose a check or money- order made out to Harper’s Bazar Shop- ping Service covering the total cost of the purchases to be made by us. No orders will be shipped unless a remittance accompanies the order. We cannot charge articles to your accounts with the scores or send them C. O. D. When not sure of the cost of articles ordered, EARLY send an approximate sum, for a balance will be refunded in case you have sent more than was required for the purchase. SELECT Seconoe CrotcE B* MENTIONING a second choice of gifts, time will be saved and additional correspondence eliminated, should we be unable to buy your first choice—a circum stance which occurs when popular gifts are sold out quickly. We shall, however, make every attempt to supply the first choice. When ordering articles to be sent to another person, give us both your address and that of the consignee. Printing the name and address is a great help to us. Not ReEtTu N°? GIFTS purchased through our service may be sent on approval at this season of the year. Any dissatisfaction should be registered with our department and _ not with the shop at which the gift was bought and we shall do all we can to adjust the matter. - Most of the articles in the Christmas gilt section will be sent prepaid parcel post. _ The heavier items, such as furniture and large toys, etc., will be sent express collect. Order as early as possible in order to insure a delivery before Christmas. GIFTS RNABLE If you are going away and wish not only to look beau- tiful, but to feel beautiful, this Elizabeth Arden we end case 1s packed with just the essentials you desir ial Il

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jor DECEMBER 1924 o SS Oe Oe Ni) All = &XCLUSIVE & DISTINCTIVE hy Gi) | iy) FOOTWEAR DY Mi | A for iy ai WOMEN WY) Mi i) ‘i CAMMEYER. nN | Branch De Luxe | Ni 070 ~TSifth Avenue AV! Between Sird and 54th Streets New York City Sis So a a : * “J y |b} Our representatives visit | all the larger cities Send for Illustrated Brochure The one gift that always reflects good taste-——That is al- ways acceptable — GLOV ES Dealers are now show- ing Gift Gloves of every “Tt’s been looking for!” just what I’ve The unrivaled smartness of this unique Folding Umbrella in its trim little packet never fails to please. Its rare distinctive- ness and simplicity of operation win instant women approved type—appro- priate for every occasion ——for every climate and every occupation— for Men, Women and Children Clive THE GLOVE INDUSTRY, 395 Broadway, New York, N. Y. A slight movement of the wrist puts the rod in place. When open, TUKAWAY is the size of any ordinary umbrella. admiration from men and alike. ARAINYy "aha Sortect Gripotena! » has solved the umbrella problem. No longer is it a nuisance to carry an um- brella. No longer need you run the risk of being caught without one. TUKAWAY slips easily into grip, dresser-drawer, golf-bag or auto- pocket. It may be had in black or colored fabrics with distinctive handles for men and women. For the standard folding umbrella —insist upon TUKAWAY. At all good stores. and practical Christmas gift. The Height of Perfection in Weather Protection! *siRO “4 Ora wvenewlé Sreeessed LOOK FOR THE LABEL No more leaky umbrellas! The new “Cravenette” Processed SIROCO — lasts longer and repels moisture as no other umbrella will. Made with a choice of new style handles, tips and ends to match in all colors and black — in wide variety for Men, Women and Children. An inexpensive MBRELLA If Your Dealer Can’t SupplyYou, Address SIEGEL-ROTHSCHILD & COMPANY New York Baltimore SOEs UMBRELLAS . U.S. PAT. OFF PARASOLS CANES

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148 PALM BEACH / North Lake Trail ee ee a ee ee et ce ee ee HENNING Craftsmen will create a shoe for you, made to measure, that will be the gem of your wardrobe, at $54 and up. When we fit you from stock, you may choose these same custom made ae at $ ee 2 an appreciable saving Black Satin Brocade. .... . $20 Brown Satin Brocade __. Lh 20 Aluminum Cloth ; > a” ee 20 Silver and Rose Brocade Pg Mig ee 22 Silver Brocade : 22 Gold Brocade 22 Sizes 214 to 9 Oak Leaf Kid . Pw . $14 Golden Brown Kid : 14 Caramel Kid . 14 Chestnut Brown Kid 14 Patent 14 Black Satin — 14 Black Suede .._.. 14 Every HENNING shoe, no matter what the price, is made of materials particularly chosen by Henning. They are made on Henning lasts, they are Henning workman- ship, Henning design—and, like all Henning shoes, they anticipate and create the vogue. \ MIAMI East Flagler Street hh A A Custom Made ‘54 and up EVENING SLIPPERS Baby Heels and High Heels Widths AAA to D KID OPERA PUMPS HENNING VwrselGpe fs Custom MAOE Boot Shop 575-577 MADISON AVE. at 572 ST, NEw YORK HARPER’S BAZAR A durable, constructive toy for the youngster with an active mind, made of wood and casily put together. Engine with smoke-stack and smoke, headlights, boiler, and trailer, $3. FOR THE PLAYHOUR IN THE NURSERY This little girl gets up bright and early to feed her pet chickens. The barnyard and eleven movable fowls and girl, $5.50. ‘French Lessons at Play Tine A lotto game for the am- bitious young French stu- dent. The cards, printed in French, match the cards with pictures, $3. Direction for ordering » —€ are on page 14 ~ e \ eh = = For the lover of big hunting game this toy will be great fun, as you can kill these wooden animals over and over again with a harmless cork gun, $2.59. fo : iS J silky tains head Deci ance Gout less 1 in pl. GUA ering Lon¢ Satis

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for DECEMBER 1924

Christmas Gifts for Women who wear o Extra Sizes A few gift suggestion that are sure to please—as well as fi —the stout woman.

Pantalettes of heavy Silk Jersey, Shirred cuff ....$4.95 Chemise—Radium Silk. Val. and net lace trim...... $6.95 Nightgown—R adium Silk. Net, point-d’esprit lace PM ic civits weeny aaa : Negligee— Heavy Crepe de Chine, ecru lace trim. . $16.50 If unable to visit any of our stores, write to Dept. K2 for new Style Book fane Bryant 26 W. 39th St., 21 W. 38th St., New York Hanover Place, nr. Fulton St., B’klyn CHICAGO DETROIT 101 N. Wabash Ave. 1452 Farmer Se3. ——— 2 ———_ =—c>—— ———————— ee

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150 Not only a dainty finish but a real corrective Y shiny nose “I am using Vauv with the most satisfactory re- sults. My face used to be very oily and ten minutes after powdering it would shine as much as ever. But Vauv has cor- rected this, and I wish to express my apprecia- tion of it.” Miss A. L., New York City = “I am tremendously pleased with Vauv. I find that I do not have to powder half as often as I used to—that it forms, as you say, a very good powder base.” Miss R. G., Lennox, Mass. i—4 “Excellent for enlarged pores and blackheads. More effective than or- dinary creams.” Miss C. O., New Orleans, La. \—| Send for tube today You should be able to buy Vauv today at any drug or department store, price soc. But if your dealer should be out of it, send us 10c with this coupon, if you wish a sample tube; or 53¢ (regular price plus postage) if you wish a full-sized tube that will last at least a month In one wonderful cream —a double effectiveness! Vauv not only gives a dainty new finish that lasts for hours; but it actually helps to correct the conditions that cause shine—it absorbs ex- cess oil, it reduces enlarged pores. Immediate action, and increasing benefits! Just smooth a touch of this cream over nose, forehead, chin— wherever you are troubled with shine and oiliness. Instantly, they disappear. In their place comes a delicate natural freshness, the loveliest finish —soft and smooth as velvet. Added protection Over this, dust a bit of powder —much less than usual—and see how it clings. An added protec- tion; for Vauv not only keeps the shine off —it also keeps the powder on! And then—while you are revelling in these immediate effects—the satisfaction of knowing that this wonderful cream is gradually, gently correcting the old unsightly conditions! In a week or two—if you have used Vauv regularly — such an improvement. Enlarged pores assuming normal size, and every day less and less trouble with such blemishes as blackheads! Does not clog pores You need never fear that Vauv will clog the pores. It helps to cleanse them instead; for when it is washed off, it carries away all the impurities it has absorbed. Of course, Vauv is absolutely harmless. Start using it today. And remember, that to enjoy the full benefit of its corrective action, you must use it regularly. THE VAUV CO. (for Jane Morgan) 192 Blair Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio HARPER’S BAZAR Directions for ordering are on page 146 Here is a toy for the grown-ups as well as the children. A very small 6-inch phonograph, which will not only play the tiny tot’s records, but regular 12-inch ones too, $16. SPORTING TOYS FOR ENERGETIC LADS Ce j | j A detachable camping knife consisting of fork, knife, and spoon. Made of nickel, brass, and horn, $2.50. Small useful single field-glass, $2. The light of this focusing A_ motion-picture toy that flashlight, whose ray has will thrill any child. By a range of 500 feet, will pene- turning the handle the film trate into the darkest recesses. can be run at any speed, Two sizes, $3.50 and $4.50. Price, $3.75 with one film THE VAUV CO. (for Jane Morgan) 192 Blair Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio. (Check whichever you want) 0 I am enclosing §3¢ for full-size tube of Vauv. O I am enclosing roc for sample tube of Vauv. Name Street (or P. O. Box) City . . State Your Dealer's name and address Di nacude English-made double-end leather striking bag. Can he used in any doorway. Top and bottom straps have heavy rubber sections, seams are welted, very durable, $12.

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tor DECEMBER 1924 / ' . Your Guests ON (anuek: f- Pack a few OILTEX TRANSFORMATIONS ; in your car. Ct ar 8 «Ea . >, cring y = :' You Can Now Buy vy . ag Without the Old Time Objections | ; —~—. —_— Ps STRIKING BEAUTY —==RADIO= i 4 : KI is the digference between O(LTEX SLICKER ; juce powder FRADE MARK REGISTERED ; and Does not become sticky and soil the clothing, P OUD RE nor does it stiffen and crack in cold weather. It requires no re-oiling to keep it waterproof, COND hence there is no disagreeable odor to this garment. Don’taccept any yellowcoat. De- The mand RADIO OILTEX. suena osed by inarZarc Marvelous New Gomplexion For Sale by All Good Dealers. _ a : eo aa (ranishing- cream, base) Look for the RADIO OILTEX Label. Pe wher ge war BY ie 75¢ to $4.50 Write Dept M, for Illustrated Booklet. Manuel Creation to disguise Manufactured only by the bob in a small, light, well- Be were CAMBRIDGE RUBBER COMPANY | | com’) ‘olfure for Made- moiselle! , Cambridge, Mass. All Kinds of Hair Goods Exclusively. } Gentlemen’s Department—Sth Floor. ’ Wh “ 3 Send for my Neu : olesa te Brame hes | tell Be BOSTON NEW YORK FOR MEN, WOMEN 186 Lincoln Street 127 Duane Street and CHILDREN CHICAGO LONDON e CMU Yellow and Olive Green. 327 W. Munroe Street 119 Finsbury Pav. E.C.2 c | NEW YORK WHEN WINTER COMES—WEAR GLENGAIRN GALOSHES wailiaeae ae Look for The CAMCO Scotch Plaid Label | hs J a mine % | ' . | ° ° 1 oui Wit TT | BRASSIERES ; ait iH} ‘ Hi , He | p if | me 2 Seige ' Y ) € ye: IMPORTANT [33s _ q y fe. "Helpful not Boastful” A Pr j on Read this Booklet Brassiere 3 ‘ ior DIRECTIONS and IRECTOIRE § ry || MANY Uses OF I i To Preserve the Charm {, || CARBONA |i}: On sale at all leading ‘| of Dainty Complexions | tt Cleaning Fluid Department Stores and 5 Youthful complexions last 4 Corset Shops ) longer if cared for in the proper ( An é way. After washing the face, use f Ideal $ é ; s 00 +; Christmas No. 789— == each 2 \ coe Present é : =) te Fa vefore applying any cosmetic. ol i ers | ben No. 789—This beautiful model i le of a very durable | {] This appealingly fragrant toile th or AR mat 0. 7959 11s c eautl ul mode : 1s made ofa Vv ery C urab e 2 1 “Pt FE ing V fragrant toilet ety BON od quality of exquisite filet. It is lined with net and either pink =: necessity = safely closes _ the mone UNBURNABLE -d ne or white silk, and has elastic inserts at each hip. =: Pores and protects the most Cat leaning Flui Sars A. P. Brassieres, the creations of Madame Poix, are designed fi saees — Sises wa VES GREASE SOT Sag for comfort as well as beauty. They impart to the figure the © For over a hundred and fifty Nt'| [Gurentecd mariocomarn | | 2s long graceful lines that the current vogue demands. | =r years, No. 4711—the original— rae | | Berzine.naphtna orGasoline | | Sire : f 5 has remained the favorite. Sse] [ang abe on-Combustible | | ain Send today for our Free Style Book. é ° Ms ne : “en he F ‘ Produced in America by the os x Drug Stores wie £ makers of No. 4711 White Cairy be “30°60**1=2Size Bottles ial G. M. POIX, Inc., 100 Seventh Avenue § Rose Giycerine Soap, and No Sue} '4rbOna Products Co,304W.265t.N.Y- J 7 Brooklyn, N. Y. ry | § hyp »@ . ] Just off poe Handsome y 4711 Bath Salts. entiemen: & nt WN I | Hi the Press . Kindly send me your FREE Style Booklet, Illustrated 4 MULHENS & KROPFF, INC. H| js tt! i Hi The Loveliness of Milady.”’ k 25 W. 45th St., N. Y. City tid , Made in U.S. A. . NAME E Pa es OS PN MN ke ADDRESS

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a un LS) PR | Super r - Inlaid ] Super Plate A Plate. dhe Distinctive ai Holiday Gift Suggestions Baby Spoon, bent handle $1.00 Pickle or Lemon-Fork . 1.50 Cold Meat or Serving Pork «Sve. ae Gravy Ladle . Poe F- | Berry or Serving Spoon 3.00 Set of six Oran’e Spoons 5.25 Set of six Ice Cream Forks. . é . 3% Set of six Sia Tes Spooms ... 6.00 Set of six Sesind Spreaders .. 6.00 Set of six Bouillon Bésies 6.75 Set of six Individual Seled Forks. . . 7.00 Salad Servin} Spoon ot Fork, Olivewood Bow! and Tines . . - 7.50 Carving Set — Knife or Fork, 7in. blade . . 9.00 Dinner Set — six Knives and Six Forks . . .17.70 26 piece Dinner Set . . 31.10 Each in Velvet Lined Gift Package Attractive assortments in Presentation Chests from a 26 piece set at $31.10 to a complete service of 220 pieces at $340.00 may be hed at the better dealers in silverware. Write for Gift Book — >) [HOLMES § EDWARDS} [SUPER SPER PLATE” INLAID | The Century Coat) FJea Spoon SILVERPLATE from the House of HOLMES § EDWARDS BRIDGEPO CONNECTICUT SUCCEEDED BY Oriscarn 3 Also in Canada, Standard Silver Company of Toronto. Limited | for a happy lifetime, $4. HARPER’S BAZ FOR THE JADED LADY OF FIVE YEARS This pull-toy auto-bungalow is a doll’s house on wheels. movable bedroom and living-room furniture, $8.00. A dolly’s school, which contains everything, just everything necessary for the instruction of the youthful mind. Even the school bell is there, $3. The very latest turn-out for the doll-bride. A hope-chest of cedar with all the necessary house- hold linen to equip dolly The two inside compartments contain Silk-lined sewing kit of black striped morocco leather, con- tains thread, thimble, scissors, etc. $6.50.

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ZAR jr DECEMBER 1924 — A Well-Shod Foot On All Occasions Feet that have a reputation for chic can best continue it G i by wearing y this slipper A] of patent leather N and lizardskin G | by day 4 = so and _ this t | of mottled C4 colored kids s | by night. »| Every Sommers Shoe is designed to make the foot look smaller. 39 WwW. Son ent Lage SNE ERR RRR pA me New York =e Tras Bob-Betty’s Soap for Good Children The Pictures Don't Wash Off Tested and approved by Good Housckeeping Institute HE SOAP that puts the element of play into wash- ing. Children love it. An absolutely pure soap made of the best materials. And each cake has a fascinating Picture on the front which never washes off. It stays on as long as the soap lasts. The Combination Gift Box illustrated contains six cakes and a sanitary washcloth. \ The price is $2.00 per box. Certainly a delightful and use- ful gift for any child. Send check, money order or bills and it will be sent to you immediately postpaid. Why not order a box for each of the children? BARBARA ELIZABETH 17 MAIN STREET BEACON, NEW YORK S & ae By eo, ile FOR, ee ess) oof ™~, AGS ae : SPL — ACA NGF CeO CEG SN } NZ Ws, Vas NL { PHARLS DIAMONDS PRICIOUS STONES JOR "113 MORZ IMPORTANT CHASM ivr SPAULDING & CO. ¥ EE CAGO ) TUS IS ESTES + DIGS AC. ABts; FSC OO ONO \ > f? a UPA ee Excellent Reproductions of Colonial Prism Lamps Eighteen inches tall and mounted on white marble bases five inches square with brass ball feet. The shades are crystal roughed glass with the design cut and polished clear and below them hang imported Colonial cut prisms with star design. The metal parts are made from heavy brass beautifully finished in Colonial Brass. Usually sold in pairs although a single lamp may be obtained if desired. Price $60.00 the pair, f. 0. b. factory Obtainable at the better shops. If your dealer does not have them send money order, certified check or New York draft and lamps will be forwarded by express. Harry B. Kohler 27 W. Washington St. Hagerstown Maryland

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“THINEST”’ A shallow master- piece of bandy circumference. Ample powder and full-sized puff $1 might have found inspira- tion in the TRE-JUR TRIPLE. For—in this beautiful compact, cleverly arranged, are powder, lip- stick and rouge of finest quality. One touch—and the opened lid reveals a powder delightfully scent- ed with Jo/i-Memoire. Below—the pressure of your little finger releases the magic drawer — bearing rouge and lipstick of exquisite quality. Three dainty musketeers—insepa- table and ready for instant service. Encased in polished brass and amaz- ingly priced at $1.25 everywhere! THE HOUSE OF TRE-JUR 19 WEST 18th STREET NEW YORK CITY TREVJUR offers a Compact for every need Ask at your favorite store for your own shade of pow- der and rouge. Or order by mail from us. Refills always are available. All good thi things come in threes’ “PURSE SIZE” TWIN Powder and rouge in an ingenious case that fits into the smailest purse $1 HARPER’S BAZAR DELIGHTFUL ANTIQUE REPRODUCTIONS Directions for ordering are on page 146 These are tiny reproductions of antiques for the doll house. The Georgian book- case has three shelves and compartment below. On the table is a lamp with deco- rative parchment shade. This set is $5. On a Colonial mantel-shelf are candlesticks and clock of Colonial design in a wide choice of colors. Andirons, shovel, and tongs are brass. Set with handwovenrug, $4.75. A wooden bowl decorated with a pottery design rests on the handsomely carved lowboy, a copy of an antique model. The wing chair is not only colorful but also comfortable for Dolly. The group is $3.75. =

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TIFFANY & CO. JEWELRY PEARLS SILVERWARE (UALITY- THAT ENDURES MAIL INQUIRIES RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION NETH AVENUE & 0/ {STREET New YORK

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The Gowns Smart Women Are Selecting for the Southern Season Model 114—A Paris importation of silk crépe de Chine striped with a new irregular stripe and finished with hand fagotting. White ground striped in yellow and blue, green and black or orchid and Model 126—A smart tailored gown with all-over self-colored embroi- dery in white, yellow, Polo blue, amande green, salmon, red, rust, navy blue or black, finished with 1 buttons and buckle; pear t 45,00 belt of self material. “Model 128—A new tailored gown in kashmir—the smartest fabric of the season—comes in white, natu- ral, amber, Bois de rose, walnut, amande green or 39,50 franklin Simon & Co A Store of Individual Shops Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Streets, New York Entire Contents Copyrighted, 1924, by Franklin Simon & Co., Inc. HARPER'S BAZAR is published monthly at_119 W. 40th St., New York, by International A ‘early subscription price, $4.00. Entered as second Magazine Company, In¢. Printed in U. S. A. class matter May 4th, 1901, at the post office, New York, N. Y., black. 49,50 geranium. A very smart model buttoned down the front and with the new inset tucking. December 194 under the act of March 3rd, 1879. HARPER’S BAZApE p yol. LIX ba 12

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AZARE DECEMBER 1924 Model 301—I mported ten-piece bronze dresser set in rose, French blue, orchid, jade or black enamel, with hand-painted miniature on ivory. 915.00 e Mode! 3037 — Enameled ifts> vanity case on 14K gold, ) with two compartments, mirror and s1lk cord han- ig dle. In sade, Oxblood, la- prs blue or black. 315.00 Mode! 307 — Men's 14K antique green gold wrist watch in a chased design, with radium numerals on a silver dial. Fifteen jewels and guaranteed move- ment. 98.00 Model 309— Platinum and diamond wrist Watch, set with 18 cut diamonds. Seventeen jewels and guaranteed move- ment. 275.00 Model 311 —Small bracelet watch of 3O7 3O9 311 14K white gold with fine black enamel edge. Fifteen jewels. 35.00 . | 319 If Mode! 317.5 — Bookshaped cigarette tase, 14K green gold, design on both sides, 265.00 Model 317—Set of stx ster- Model 319 — Folding pocket ling stlver cups and a funnel comb in 14K green gold case wn leather case 10.00 with smart stripes. 35.00 franklin Stmon & Co Girr SHop-—Street Floor cA Store of Individual Shops Charge Accounts Solicited Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Streets, New York To show the beauty of the design and the detail of model por. Model 313— Onyx shirt studs, cuff links and vest buttons, with platinum edge and14K goldbacks. 75.00 Model 321— Men's bill fold of black long grain leather or silk more with heavy 14K green gold mountings. It has several inside pockets and a special place for motor license. 18.50 Model 323— Pencil of 14K green gold finely striped, With clip. 25.00 Entire Contents Copyrighted, 1924, by Franklin Simon & Co., Inc.

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The Specially Shop of Originalions FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™ STREET, NEW YORK HAKPER’S B 1 ZAR BONWIT TELLER & CO, GIFTS THAT DELIGHT A WOMAN’S VANITY 200—Reproduction of a French toilet set in bronze gilt with gen- uine enamel in rose, Nattier blue or orchid, and hand painted mini- atures on ivory. Brush 39.00 Mirror 43.00 - Comb 13.00 201—“‘Miracle’’—an entirely new and exquisite perfume endorsed by Lady Diana Manners, in gold flecked black flacon 2 oz. 20.00 202—“Miracle”’ face powder with the same irresistible fragrance as the perfume . . . . 3,00 203—Imported clock of genuine enamel in pink, rose, Nattier blue or orchid on silver gilt; 8 day guaranteed movement; 4!% inches high oo oS ek ee 204—Imported atomizer of col- ored glass in green, red, or royal blue with design etched in gold; gilt top; 5 inches high. 9.50 205—Evening bag of white gros- grain faille entirely covered with glittering rhinestone mesh,change purseand mirror. . . 20.00 206—Imported French handker- chief of white linen combined with net applied with hand WONG a ee se cls. SO 207— Evening bandeau of rhine- stones set inaluminum . 6.75 208 —Necklace of imported cube pearls with small pearls between; 30-inch length with 14 kt. white gold filigree clasp. . . 5.00 209—Evening powder vanity of black galalith with rhinestone studded cover, long black silk ct | lain |) | 210—Double powder box with pin cushion centre. Rose, blue or orchid with lace tops and gold gallooning . . . . . 6.00 211—Imported lip stick holder of gilt with jewel studded cover. 4.00 212—Imported flexible bracelet of genuine chrysoprase or onyx square and oblong stones, hexa- gon centre, set in sterling silver. 18.50 214—-Sachet of taffeta with top of ostrich feathers, flower centre. Rose, blue or orchid. . 9.50 215 —Imported steel-beaded bag with design in shades of silver, silk lined «me ws eee 216—Imported vanity of gold or silver brocade with inside com- partment, mirrorand lipstick 7.50 217—‘“‘Venez Avec Moi,” a new and delightful perfume made ex- pressly for Bonwit Teller & Co. in dragon fly flacon. Black moire silk container, lined with jade, jade tassel 2 0z. 20.00 “Venez Avec Moi” face powder 5.00 porscemncr ims meee a ; é i : (pote ence Tr senate em ammerntaanonat seem mamma oe ior at: i - a a. tnd

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10 B 1Z4R ¢ DECEMBER GIFTS THAT BRING BEAUTY TO THE x — a 1924 BONWIT TELLER &CO. The Specalty Shop of Orsgunatlions FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™ STREET. NEW YORK ie ccs «8 ecm mca 184—Vase of. wine red, Venetian glass with gold dolphins. 10 inches high. 9.00 187--Boudoir pin cushion and tray covered with rose | or blue satin with gold gal- looning and gold lace. 5.75 188—Boudoir basket cov- ered in gold, rose or French blue silk trimmed with gold gallooning and tassels, lace medallion centre under glass, ‘ 9.50 191—Table runner of silk damask in antique design with silk velvet ends in Italian ted, old blue or gold, trim- med with gold gallooning. 54 inches long, 16 inches wide. 15.00 189—Powder jar of amber Bohemian glass with cover de- sign of chased gilt. - 19.50 190—Perfume or cocktail tray of bronze gilt with centre of Nor- mandie lace under glass. 15x10'2 inches. 180—Boudoir lamp with base of little boy or gir! figures of genuine Carrara marble on bronze gilt ped- estal, with lamp _ shades especially designed and beautifully made to har- monize. 75.00 to 175.00 One illustrated . 95.00 185—Imported French gilt mirror (mirror on both sides) with jewel studded border and handle. 45.00 186—Reproduction of a French picture frame of bronze gilt with genuine enamei border in rose, Nat- tier blue or orchid. 7 inches 32.00 18i1—.Boudoir cashion of changeable taffeta with fluted ruffle edges, shirred lace centre medallion and rosebuds. Blue, rose or orchid. 17 inches diameter. 9.50 182—Boudoir cushion of taffeta with pleated lace ruf- fle edges, gold lace centre medallion. Rose, blue or orchid. 16 inches diameter. 9.50 183—Typifying one of a collection of charming de- corative dolls, exquisitely dressed in replica of famous paintings in the Louvre. 49.50 to 65.00 The one illustrated. 55.00

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=~ Zada: All that glitters is good in the eve- ning mode! And, not content with the shimmer of the metal cloth from which it is fashioned, this miss’s frock adds a gleaming moonbeam scarf. Brown fur bands the tunic, and a iuxurious rose adds a colorful touch. In jade, rose, peach and gold; sizes 14 to 20 inclusive, $39.50. Abraham & Straus Inc. Brooklyn, N. Y. L. S. Ayres & Company Indianapolis, Ind. L. Bamberger & Co. Newark, N J. Bullock’s Los Angeles, Cal. The Dayton Company Minneapolis, Minn, The Emporium San Francisco, Cal. Wm. Filene’s Sons Company Boston, Mass. B. Forman Co, Rochester, N. Y. © 1924 by R. R. A. Lorelei: Antoine: A filmy panel floating from the shoulder and held at the waist with a cluster of colored brilliants brings the aerie naivete of youth to this din- ner gown for Madame. Of brocaded chenille Georgette bordered with French hare—in shutter green, black, sapphire, rust, cocoa and brown. Sizes 34 to 44 inclusive, $39.50. Long-flued ostrich and velvet—the season’s two ‘fraisons d’etre’’— unite forces in this debutante’ frock, the supple youth of which is ac- centuated by the demure bodice, cir- cular skirt, and Jenny neck. In sap- phire, coral, jade, black and white; sizes 14 to 20 inclusive, $39.50. FESTIVE SEASON LURES ONE INTO GAY ATTIRE ALA Holidays! How they tax the festive wardrobes of debutante and matron. Without loosing one’s purse-strings too widely, one may graciously meet every occasion—for Barbara Lee presents this month a lovely array of shimmering silver fabrics, sheath-like velvets, fluttering chiffons and luxurious bro- cades, only four of which are pictured. All are offered at the low price of $39.50. Rorlrona Sit These and other Barbara Lee frocks for women and misses are shown exclusively in the shops listed in this advertisement THE HARPER’S BAZAg {or Idyll: Fantastic veivet tracery on a satin ground! Therein is the chic of Madame’s formal gown. In back, a straight line defies the years; in front, a tunic, weighted with chin- chillette fur, is caught at each side with starry rhinestones. In Ameri- can beautv, black, jade, sapphire and white; sizes 34 to 44 inclusive, $39.50. Frederick & Nelson Seattle, Wash. Joseph Horne Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. The J. L. Hudson Co. Detroit, Mich. The F. & R. Lazarus & Co. Columbus, Ohio The Rike-Kumler Co. Dayton, Ohio Strawbridge & Clothier Philadelphia, Pa. The Wm. Taylor Son & Co. Cleveland, Ohio Weinstock, Lubin & Co. Sacramento, Cal,

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4 satin hic of back, ars; in chin- h side | meri- re and usive, BAZsgfor DECEMBER 1924 Right — Dainty crepe de chine gown with French pleatings, cream lace yoke, narrow ribbons, and net frill at bottom, Flesh or peach, sizes 34 to 42—8.95 Step-in chemise to match—5.7§ Below—A lovely negligee or tea gown of chiffon is trimmed with lace and has a flowing back. Pink, light blue, orchid, nile or maize, 16 and 18 years—2}.50 LINGERLE & NEGLIGEES a page of suggestions, as attractive in price as they are in fashion Charge Accounts Solicited Best & Co. FIFTH AVENUE at 35th STREET—N.Y. Center (top group) Pajamas of an original pattern are made of fresh, peach or light blue crepe de chine, with net edges. Sizes 34 10 GO—9.75 Left — An exceptional value — this lovely crepe de chine gown trimmed with val Jace and em- broidered net. Flesh or peach. Sizes 34 to J2—5.75 A. i = y ‘Right — Crepe de chine with scalloped net frills. Flesh or peach, sizes 34 to 42. Vest, 3.50» Step-ins, 3.50. Center— Luxurious set of radium silk With real Irish lace. White or peach, sizes 34 to g2. Vest 7:95, Step-ins, 7.95; Above—A youthful silk dressing gown in gay plaids. Bright plaid in blue, red or yellow, or a blue plaid. 14 to 20 years, 15.00. Left—Jacquard crepe de chine set with silk roses appliqued. Flesh or peach, sizes 34 to 42: Each piece, 3.95.

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HARPER’S

BA ZAR

ESATA —

SK to see “Onyx Sheresilk” stock- ings the next time you visit a hosiery counter. The style shown here 1s called “Onyx Pointex” No. 450, and you can see for yourself the exquisite beauty

® ‘ Cc thine of its texture. The saleswoman will be pe . WeIkn “Sill

glad to show you other styles of “Onyx”, |

too, including many excellent gift sug-

gestions for men, women and children.

Leading stores everywhere sell “Onyx” Hosiery for all the family. They make a specialty, how- ever, of the “Onyx Pointex” styles listed below. Style 255 “Onyx Pointex” medium weight with lisle top and sole. Style 355 ( $ 1 9 5 “Onyx Pointex Sheresilk” with lisle top and silk sole.

Style 350 “OnyxPointex”medium weight, all silk. $7.75 Style 450 “Onyx Pointex Sheresilk”, as illustrated.

Disa “<O 99 ab NYX

“Onyx” Hostery 1s never sold by house-to-house canvassers. “Onyx” Hosiery Inc. Manufacturers New York

Hosiery 66 Ye ao _ ‘Onyx Pontes

© “O” H. Inc., 1924

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AZAg for DECEMBER 1924 _—— |] I] | B. Altman & Cn. Suggestions for Christmas Gifts To aid the out-of-town shopper or anyone too busy to shop individually for each Christmas Gift, we will send promptly on request The Altman Quarterly Dozens of gift suggestions are illustrated and the satisfaction of shopping by mail is further assured by the standard of quality and service for which this Store is always known Fifth Avenue: Madison Avenue, jfrew Work Chitty-fourth Street Chitty - fifth Street TELEPHONE 7000 MURRAY HILL

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10 \ In the infants’ or sheet de- partment of your store, little pillow-cases like these Dainty sheets for crib and bassinet ' Sore se =. even than fine linen— and costing very much Less Te! difficulty about Christmas presents isn’t so much “to whom shall I give?” as “What shall it be?” Wamsutta Percale outwears other sheets. The remarkable strength of the material itself is reinforced by the Wamsutta Tape Selvedge. Wamsutta Percaie Sheets and Pillow-Cases are lovelier than fine linen. They cost very much less; and only a trifle more than ordi- nary cotton. Ask to see Wamsutta Percale at your department or linen store. In all sizes for twin, three-quarter and full size beds — plain hemmed, hemstitched and scalloped. WAMSUTTA MILLS - New Bedford, Mass Founded 1846 RIDLEY W sae oy 44 Leonard St., N. Y ling Agents: WAMSUTTA PERCALE Sheets and Pillow Cases CThe Finest of Cottons Wamsutta Mills also make WAMSUTTA NAINSOOK—WAMSUTTA UNDERWEAR CLOTH—WAMSUTTA LUSTERSHEER How charming and appreciated are sheets and pillow-cases of the finest quality. And when the cost is reasonable, the problem is solved! These beautiful sheets and pillow- cases of Wamsutta Percale are ideal for giving because their fine, closely woven texture makes them perfect for using. They become even hand- somer as time goes on. The famous test by Professor Millard of the Massachusetts Insti- tute of Technology proves that The weakest point of an ordinary sheet is where the hemstictching ends. It tears quickly because it is not reinforced Wamsutta hemstitching stops at the Tape Selvedge. Thus the Tape Selvedge re- inforces and prevents tear- ing at the vital point HARPER’S BAZAR La +4 ‘ > Ss! a f LA “44 ARG —_— Lg OF ie ' 9 vis } SA Ly é E "ee eee eS we A handsome adornment to your guest-room beds Exquisite for monogramming Pillow-cases of Wamsutta Percale hemstitched, ecomapee, orem- broidered a A rich background for embroider- ing initials ~ -— ‘Ordinary Selvedge ow “Wamsutta Percale Tape Selvedge

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ZAR ul

for DECEMBER 1924

11

This Italian porcelain comport, from Macy’s new Corner Shop, is priced at $46.75. Peacocks of cream colored porcelain, $14.24 each. oe Rs SS ‘a Cive the ifts Youd like to Cet! hie NEW DEPARTMENT at Macy’s from which these charming objects are taken has been christened The Corner Shop. This is partly because it occupies the largest, brightest corner of Macy’s newly redecorated Sev- enth Floor, and partly because its clever managers have gone far to corner a complete collection of unusual, delightful and unmatchable gifts. The Corner Shop will throw light into the dark- est corner of your Christmas shopping quandary. On this page are a few objects taken as relatively low—as strikingly, sensationally low —as the prices Macy’s has always asked for such every day necessities as houseware and dress mate- rials, needles and pins. Come to Macy’s this Christmas. Come to its great toy department, illuminated by the sprightly spirit of Tony Sarg; come to the jewelry counters, the Far East department, the lovely new furniture model rooms. Your Christmas problems will melt away. And you will save more money than you ever knew you could save.

at random from its gay tables and shelves. They are published by way of inspiration and suggestion; to re- veal to you how easily you can now secure at Macy’s a gift you would like to get! And we may add ina whisper that Corner Shop prices are

For all through Macy’s you will find one spirit, one policy and one vision. To buy and sell at lowest prices for cash; to hold quality up and pricesdown; to make good taste a watchword, and prompt and help- ful service the order of the day.

There are Italian porcelain vases for $14.24; and feather flowers for 74 cents each,

a <stger Pe ie

RH: Inc 34th ST. & BROADWAY

ON Si Italian pottery vase in blue and white, $8.54; Italian alabaster ash trays, $1.88 for three. CO

Y Co: NEW YORK CITY

Reproduction of antique Spanish terra cotta lamp, $12.24. Shade, hand painted, to match, $19.24. r7* ©)

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HARPER’S | MILLER; bie Vent Pe. Slippers Ree! peiritel Colored Doeskins, gold and silver encrusted---handwoven brocades, with all the scintillating brilliance of sunset’s colors---soft kidskins of rich gold and purest silver--are fashioned by I. Miller into slippers that set a new era in loveliness. Shown at the shops of I. Miller n New i an ttl a q York, Philadelphia and Chicago, and ee at exclusive agencies in Palm Beach, { . Atlantic City, and atishops of reputa- eS : tion throughout the United States. ee me I. MILLER & SONS ATER I N Cc O R P Oo R A x E D Oy LONG ISLAND CITY NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA CHICAGO '

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BART ERS | MILLER: Ove Vening ‘eh lipeny GTC. OxGt aptte! Colored Doeskins, gold and silver encrusted---handwoven brocades, with all the scintillating brilliance of sunset’s AN ta BS colors---soft kidskins of rich gold and Nie \ | G purest silver---are fashioned by I. Miller Ly} 4 : into slippers that set a new era in | i } fs loveliness. LS Shown at the shops of 1. Miller m New York, Philadelphia and Chicago, and at exclusive agencies in Palm Beach, Atlantic City, and at.shops of reputa- 7 ‘ ton throughout the United States. I. MILLER G SONS LONG ISLAND CITY PHIL NEW YORK ADELPHIA CHICAGO

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‘a

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yer DECEMBER 1924 UpPER— Flat bag of black, brown, tan or gray antelope leather with rhinestone clash. and metal tipped pull, 4.95. LOWER — Pouch bag of dia- mond checked silk moire. bake- lite knob and pull of marcasite trimmed silk. In either black or brown, 4.95. ABOVE— Writing case of saf- fian leather in red, blue, green or black. Fully ‘fd uith paper, envelopes, blotter ad- dress and memorandum books. 8” x11” closed, 3.95. BELOW AT RIGHT— Small square purse of crushed or cross- grain Morocco, with back strap handle, 4.95. “Bags, “Purses and Leather Goods of Smart Distinction LARGE —Vanity case in ecrase leather; brown, blue, rose or tan. With gilt fittings; comb, brush, Soap case, powder case, perfume bottle, mirror and manicure fit- tings, 16.50. CENTER—Large envelope purse of black or brown antelope leather, with two generous compartments, 7.50. RIGHT— Al copy of a new French envelope purse with the new tab closing. In black, brown, tan, or gray Morocco, 7.50. LEFT—A copy of a Worth purse. Black moire silk with tucked panels, piped with red, green, tan, gray, or black. 7.50. RIGHT—Si/k evening envelope purse studded in rhinestones, with topaz, amethyst, emerald, ruby, colored stones and all rhinestones, 9.50. STREET FLOOR THE PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE WILL GLADLY FILL ALL MAIL ORDERS OR ANSWER TO INQUIRIES UPpPER—Key frame flat bag of fluffed lizard calf in gray, brown, tan, and light green; metal trimmed pull, 12.95. LOWER— Tortoise shell colored ‘*gate’’ frame bag of highly polished dark brown alligator calf, 16.50. Bridge set in rose, blue green, tan or brown ecrase leather. Two packs of cards and pad, 2.95. Hip wallet of black, pin or cobra seal, gold corners, 5.00. Three fold wallet of pin or cobra seal, gold clips, 7.50. SAKS ~ FIFTH AVENUE FORTY-NINTH ¢# FIFTIETH STREET PLAZA 4000

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HARPER’S Beozar me Mae Murray In The Metro- Goldwyn ‘Photo Play “CIRCE The Enchantress” GOWN — By MILGRIM he ENCHANTRESS EVENING GOWN AN INSPIRATION of GOWNS - FROCKS - SUITS - WRAPS “AMERICA'S FOREMOST Y U R” MILLINER FURS FASHION CREATO BROADWAY at 74th STREET, NEW YORK eC) ) GRIMS 600 MICHIGAN BOULEVARD SOUTH, CHICAGO ~MILGRIM MODES at the Foremost Store in Each (ity

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RMI tala nen ta ata sks

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DECEMBER 1924 =~. “ans 5 oN, Al LILO I FIPTH AVENUE —at 36th Street Every New Paris Vogue in Practical Fashion Accessories Is Featured in the Petites Maisons of The New Russek Store— and here are but a few of the New Arrivals for Xmas Giving I ef. y ; ‘ Paris Pearls As Seen in Paris PSN ¥ ‘ak Flexible Pearl Bracelets The Antoinette Choker : ’ from Paris, with several of Rose Color Baroque strands held by a flawed Pearls with sparkling emerald clasp. $5.75 emerald clasp. $15. an # Fluttering Ostrich The Newest Fan of Ostrich in Opera Rose, shading from pastel pink to deepest Tint. The gift of grace. $8.95 The Patou Bag Newest Seal-Velope Bag, of Imported Silk Moire, with lin- ing, edging and seal Comoact of Thin 7 Ligih in harmony. Black, navy or brown com- bined with red, green tan or white. $19.75 Comb and Mirror The ‘Bobette” Set—comb and mirror of brightly tinted Shell in leather case. $2.50 The Scent of Delight Kismet Perfume, a delicate, linger- ing Oriental fra grance. The smart woman’s prefer- ence. $15 Boudoir Time Miniature Cased Pee Clock, of soft tinted Rain % Cloisonne A Cloisonne Colored Enamel Compact of Sterling Silver. A slender charm for the debutante. | $12.50 A “Vanitie” The Lanvin Vanitie— newest striped moire with sparkling rhinestone adornment and dainty inner fittings. $9.75 ee Book of Secrets Fine leather bound Diary with clever lock attachment. Where her memoirs may remain. $3.95 Bon Voyage Newest ‘Travel- ling Bag in Paris, colored morocco and calf leather entirely fitted with smartest amber toilet essentials. The Chanel Bag Imported Beaded sag, with newest Chanel designs in glowing Paris colors. Handsomely silk lined. $24.75 To Make Amends . . . , . e ee — . vet . . ~ . 2s ~ mother of pearl fac- The “Club” Umbrella with ferril Complete, $125. Folding Sewing Kit in genuine ing and gilt metal and handle to match in attractive leather case, completely fitted back. $15. Paris designs and silks. $9.75 with every important sewing item. $4.75 Gifts may be ordered by mail with the same assurance and satisfaction that accompanies a personal selection. ok SS ye

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a oVAR Pa AT i ” “ ig Brief case—Black or brown HE importance of a man is ii ican atom known by the way he is missed when he is not there. What a vacuum there would be in the Gift World if Mark Cross did not exist. And nature abhors a vacuum. 2 Jewel box—Red, green, blue or ple morocco. 5-inch. $8.00 Gift set—Wallet, cigarette case and match case. 14kt. gold corners and spot. Black pin seal in gift box $21.00. vesting case Red, green, rple morocco $11; ‘ee I ig $12; crushed calfskin, pastel $13.25 Glove gift box for women, contains three pairs Cross gloves; slip-on grey mocha, fancy cuff, real kid mode shade, and tan capeskin $10.60. 1€ pair Fong grey mocha, tan cape- For men: » (Mention size when skin and chamois $10 ordering). CATALOGUE SENT UPON REQUEST blue or purple French morocco with silver and gold emboss- ing. $10.50 | — H q { : & Sewing basket Red, green ! Brush set, black or brown trays, Dutch design silver leather, ebony military plate. $10.50. Match box, brushes. Complete, $7.00. $1.75 extra. Smoker’s set, six nested Avnronke Crp The World’s Greatest Leather Stores NEW YORK ° ( " ) Toilet case for Men—Black 404 Fifth Avenue (at 37th St. 175 Broadway or bro grained hide, black #.. Attit a s15 - . Boston: 145 Tremont Street HARPER’S BAZAR pin, cobra and fine grained se ‘on $9.50. Tan Pigskin. $9.25 4 a Wallet, for coat pocket, black ‘S : } \ tan crushed morocco. 3'4x2!{ inches. $4.00 Change purse—Blue, green, ) purple, brown, grey, pink or ) iu Air pillow in case of pink, blue, | purple, green, tan, grey or - brown cross-grained leather. $9.00. Bottle set with four glass bot- tles each in metal holder to prevent leakage and breakage. Black patent or tan pig goat leather, $9.00. Black, blue, green, brown or pyprple pin morocco, $10.00. Pin case, with sewing acces- sories and variety of pins. Pink, blue, purple, green, brown, grey or tan crushed calfskin. $8.50. Cigarette case, holds package of 20 cigarettes. Crushed calf- skin, pink, blue, purple, tan, brown, grey or green; black pin seal or tan pigskin, $5.00. ——

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pa a >> —#S a SZ —_ we ; 2d a RY OES SG Pe oO ad tye aeons REATED to complete the fall and winter costume; in keeping with fashion’s decree for footwear of smart simplicity, the light and dainty yet sturdy Goodyear Welt oxfords finished with Diamond Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets are the shoes of the hour for sport and street wear. No other type of shoe combines so completely perfect comfort, faultless fit, and correct style. Always insist on Goodyear Welt shoes with Diamond Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets. UNITED FAST COLOR EYELET COMPANY Manufacturers of DIAMOND BRAND (VISIBLE) FAST COLOR EYELETS Diamond Brand (Visible) Fast Color Eyelets have genuine ccl luloid tops which retcin their original finish indetinitely ard which actually outwear the shoe. They can be identified by the two tiny raised dia- monds on their celluloid surface. LOOK FOR THE DIAMOND TRADE ts MARK

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Standard Sanitary Wo. Co. Pittsburgh

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for DECEMBER 1924 e — GIFTS rom the Old World that create shee own rn eee Paris’ favorite purse—large and flat, of soft suede richly embroidered or studded with steel beads. From $22 to $45. ~ 7 i ai ine Prrcang =, s rm Cre, eo Paris handkerchiefs, hand blocked in gay colors and deli- cately embroidered. From $7 to $2.50. Graduated necklaces of ame- thyst, crystal, topaz and other stones, exquisitely carved or plain cut. From $18.95 to $472. Venetian glass, marvellously tinted and topped with bright flowers. From $3.75 to $75. Jewel cases from London, of fine leather, lined with velvet and ’ silk. From $5.50 to $75. English sewing baskets of wicker and soft leather, com- pletely fitted. From $26.50 to $45. Huge silk shawls, embroidered in China and worn in Paris. From $125 to $250. GROUND FLOOR Lord & Taylor FIFTH AVENUE. NEW YORK

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18 DWo/LARD =i 4 edaan hs ake ids. ~~ No. 2063—A Street or Afternoon Dress of Eclat Silk Faille, featuring the long sleeve, so popular this season; attractively embroidered in silk. Colors—Black, Havana, Brown, Navy, Taupe and Copper Sizes 16 to 44 mu. % Akron, Augusta, Ga Austin, Tex. Battle Creek, Mich. L. Baton Rouge, La. S. I Birmingham, Ala Binghamton, N. Y No. 2062—A Fur trimmed Dinner or Theater Dress of Brocaded Crepe Geor- gette, silk lined Colors—C ocoa, Jade Tangerine Burgundy and Bluet Sizes 16 to 44 No. 2061 An exquisite Dinner Dress of Silk Margot Lace over Satin and Silk Net, gaily en- hanced with an Ostrich Cascade Colors Black and Brown Sizes 16 to 44, PRESENTED Wadsworth Co. Waldman Bros. Michael Bros. Keely Company Dixon, Dubuque, El Dorado, Ark y Il A. L. aC Iowa 3. Fs AT THESE Geisenheimer o. Stampfer Co. Rast Massey Co. S. F Goldberg & Sons Elmira. Iszard Co. -_M. Scarsborough Erwin, Tenn Ewald & Co. Inc. & Sons Evergreen, Ala I. Long & Sons. W. Robinson Co. Fargo, N.Dak .. Moody . Reymond FE ayetteville, N. € shman Bros. Co. Burger Phillips Co. Fitzgerald, Ga arthy's Y. Sisson Bros. & Wel- Flint, Mich The Rosenthal Co. den Co. Florence, Ala Douglass Shoe & Bloomington, Ill Bluefield, W. Va Bristol, Tenn. The Newmarket Hawley Merchandise Co. The H. P. King Co. Fort Collins, Colo Vorth, Tex Mo Tosnitne Cc Eeeation Fort Fulton, Clothing Co. Gans Cc Eamagee D. G. Co. Spring Brooklyn, N. Y. Frederick Loeser & Alexander Cc Buffalo, N. Y. Adam Meldrum & pepo ille, Fla Wie. : Co. B Anderson Co. Glendale, Cal Hatz utte, Mont. Hennessy's Grand Rapids Friedman 2 ». G. Co Charleston, a. Charlotte, N. C. G. Chattanooga, Tenn. Greenwood, Miss F. Goodman Chicago, Ill. At your favorite shop Be ri oe Chillicothe, Ohio Story & Brandle Griffin, Ga Strickland Cincinnati, Ohio H. & S. Pogue Cleveland, Ohio Wm. Taylor Sons & Hannibal, Mo The Famous Colesedio Springs Ce ( ‘olumbia, 8. C Columbus, Miss. Columbus, Ohio Council Bluffs Dallas, Tex. Danbury, Conn. Danville, Ill. Danville, Ky. Dayton, Ohio Denton, Tex. De Land, Fla. Denver, Colo Des Moines, lowa Detroit, Mich Coyle & Richardson B. Cabaniss & Co. Miller Bros. Co. Co. Wilbur Cl. & Suit Co. qos. L. Bradford Huech c oO. John Beno Co. Titche Co. McLean Bros. Strauss & Louis Co. B. Robertson & Bro. Adler & Childs w. =. McClurkan & ae oe Dept. Store The Neusteter Co. Harris Emery Co. Frank & Seder Greensboro, N. C E Greensburg, es A. E. Greenville, 8. C pp C ed sean In Goettinger La Grange, Ga. FRANKLIN SIMONE CO. in New York Harrisburg, Ill Hibbing, Minn. Hornell, N. Y Hot Springs, Ark. Houston, Tex Huntsville, Ala Ithaca, Jackson, Jacksonville, Fla Johnstown, Pa Jonesboro, Ark Kansas City, Mo. Keokuk, Knoxville, Lancaster, Pa. La Salle, Ill Lawrence, x. ¥ Miss Iowa Tenn. arnell Callaway's Store Donnelly’s Mass Chas. Troutman Co. a Gc. Crouch Seten-Woods Co. Itasca Bazaar Co. Adam Davidson & Co Albert Mendel & Co. aoe Bros. D. G. Co. Thompson saoths hild Bros. Downing Locke Co. Cohen Bros. Schwartz Bros. J. Grossman Berkson Bros. Sullivan & Auwerda Anderson Dulin & Dept. Chas. B. Blakely Weiner & Son HARPER’S B. PRINCESS FA DRESSES STYLE SYMPHONIES IN HARMONY WITH THE FASHION NOTE OF THE 39” MOME NT Little Re Lincoln, Logan, Los Ange ck, Ark. Nebr. W. Va les, Cal Louisville, Ky Lyne hburg, Va. Z. Lyons, Malone, Marion, Mason C MeKecst ie. Ws Va ity, lows 1 ort, Pa. Memphis, Te Miami, Milwauk Fla. ee, Wise Minneapolis, Minn. Monroe, La. Montgomery, Ala. Mount Ohio Nashville, Vernon, Tenn. New Brunswick N. J. New C astle, Pa New Kensington, > a. New Orle Newport, sans, La. R. I New York, N. ¥ Oakland, ¢ Oak Park, Ill Ocala la Okis thom: Ori: a City, a . Til. Phils ade phil t, Pa Pittsburgh, Pa Port Arthur, Tex. Port Huron, Pontiae, Portland, Mich. Mich. Maine PRINCESS PARIS NEw YORK Marx Ready to Wear Magee's Logan Mercantile 10. A. Hambur¢ger & Sons, . M. Guggenheimer Hartman Style Shop H. E. Caldwell Coliins Bros. Manley Bros. Co. c.C Burdine & Quarter- man Reei's E. E. Atkinson Co. Bella J. Scherck Morris-Byars Co. The J. S. Ringwalt 30. Castner Knott P. J. Young dD. G. Co. Brown & Hamilton Silverman's L. Feibleman & Co. Inc ie. Helen N. McCurdy Franklin Simon & 20. Taft & Pennoyer Co. Warrington Style Shop Rheinauer Cc Be Kerr D. Dickson Ives C 10. Tooker Jordan Co. . A. Bergner Strawbridge & Clothier Frank & Seder A. Bluestein Rosenthal Winkel- man Co. Robertson's Ready- To-Wear Shop The Woman's Shop STORES Portland, Poughkee ee 2 Richmonc Riverside, Ore. psie, “ Va. Cal. Rochester, Minn. Rochester, N. Y. Rockford, Sacramen vannah, Sioux City, South Ber Springfielc Spartanbt Sterling, I St. Louis, St. Paul, Sumter, 8 fracuse, Toledo, O. Trenton, Troy, Tulsa, Vicksburg. Ww a hay ir cl Ww ‘ Ww ike: a9 ure, Pa. Wilmingt« Susquehanna, Tampa, Fla. Ill. to, Cal. Salisbury, \ San Francisco, Cal. d. Sanford, Fla. Santa Barbara,Cal lowa id, Ind. i, Mass. irg, S.C. ll. Mo. Minn. Cc. N. hio ¢ aa Miss. n, yn, D. C. yn, Del. Winston-Salem, N.C Wooster, N. ¥ Yonkers, York, Pa. Youngstown, Zanesville, N. Y. Ohio Pa z. So Ohio G. M. Meier & Frank Co. Lucky Platt & Co. Kaufman Store Inc. G. Rouse & Co. C, F. Massey Co. 7 W. Edwards & Sons H. L. Wortham Co. Pickett Atterbury Co. R. E. Powell & Co. O'Connor Moffatt & 0. The Yowell Co. ‘Trenwith's Leopold Adler Scranton D. G. Co. -—" yy South- a Bros. The Elisworth Store The Woman's Shop Aug. W. Smith Co. wo. Deaver D. G. 30. W. Garland Hiusch Bros. , s S. Burdick & Sons. Maas Bros. Hugo Stein Cloak Co. Penrose Parlors Scherer's Vandever D. G. Co The Style Sap aulis D. G. Co. Woodward & L othrop The P. H. Opie Co Fowler Dick Walker Schwartz Bros. Co. Anchor Stores Co. Fig: Wm. Annat Co. Williamson 3 oceans ker & McKelvey & Co. H. H. Sturtevant Co. FREDERICK LOESER CO. in Brooklyn PAT DRESSMAKERS, 501 Seventh Avenue, New York KF | even WV kerc “] knov Edit! «a L. Ban Ne Yymo Richn Rober Gal JU

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DECEMBER 1924 or Walking stick for David—amber goblets for AuntLysbeth—hanc- kerchiefs for Bobbie—sled for Peter—it seemed endless. “Polly,” she said almost hysterically, “I’m so tired now that I know I’ll send the sled to Aunt Lysbeth and the lorgnette to Edith’s baby!” “Why, Frances, we’ve been shopping scarcely two hours and if you’re tired now, what will you be this afternoon?” “T shall probably be sitting on the edge of the park fountain bath- ing my burning feet if I walk another step. I don’t see how you do it—you must have Indians among your ancestors.” “Well, whoever they were they bequeathed me some common sense. Look at my shoes and compare them with yours.” Frances glanced at Polly’s smart pumps. A Colonial Ped-e-mode with sturdy heel and low tongue—comfort- able, yet graceful in line. With or without bow. In modish leathers and shades. ai CMe 4edemode Shop 76 E. Mapison St., CHICAGO Ernst Kern Co. Detroit, Mich. Kerr Dry Goods Co. Oklahoma City, Okla F |. Bamberger & Co. Newark, N. J San Francisco, Cal Thomas Kilpatrick Co. Omaha, Neb. ‘ymour Sycle Richmond, Va. D. B. Loveman Co. Chattanooga, Tenn Robert I. Cohen, Inc. Galveston, Texas JULIUS GROSSMAN, Yedemode Shoes for Women -ed-e-modes are shown exclusively in the shops listed below: Gedemode Inc. 570 FirrH Avenue, NEw York City of Paris Dry Goods Co. Knight Shoe Co. Portland, Ore. Davenport Hotel Sport Shop Spokane, Wash. ” “, ( i i i j ; fi: a7 y os Ss BOS leg 8 oF + 3 UNDIMMED JOY IN GIFT SELECTION RANCES looked despairingly at the long Christmas list in her hand, as Polly and she emerged from a shop already thronged, even at this early hour, “]T shouldn’t call yours old ladies’ shoes by a good deal, the heels are every bit as high as mine.” “Yes, but see how yours yawn in back. It’s the constant slid- ing up and down that chafes and blisters your heel. And then, you’re getting no support from that arch.” «“T have virtually no heel and a shoe that fits me everywhere else is always too large there,’ Frances lamented “That’s because you haven’t the correct last. Come down to the Ped-e-mode Shop and get fitted. I’]l guarantee that your Christmas list will melt before your eyes.” “Break in new shoes now?”’ Frances was horrified. “‘Ped-e-modes are broken in before you wear them. Come on, there’s a dear, try them on anyway.” An hour later Frances was swinging along at Polly’s side. “I can’t help wriggling my toes,” she was saying, “just for the joy of ” proving there isn’t a twinge in any of ’em. A distinctive Oxford, asdaintyasanypump. It derives its smart- ness from a new line atthe top and a grace- Sul last. In avariety ofleathers and shades. CThe 4edemode Shop 1708 Evciip AVENUE, CLEVELAND, Joseph Horne Co Pittsburgh, Pa Caspari & Virmond Co. Milwaukee, Wis. F. E. Ballou Co. Providence, R. I. L. Livingston New York Lauber’s Toledo, Ohio Phelps Shoe Store Shrev eport, La Friedman-Spring Dry Goods Co. Grand Rapids, Mich. Cincinnati, O Write for style book—no charge Mm Gs BROOKLYN, a Smith-Kasson Co.

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OWN the hushed theatre with silken murmur . . a moment's mute applause as she moves to a table at the Ritz .. instant, vibrant attention before the polo match. She who loves luxuri- ous movement wears Dalby Silknits. They are wonderfully soft and cling- ing—knitred of purest silk. Never before was underwear so richly pliant, so preserving of the lissom slimness Fashion requires. It fits with perfect smoothness under the straightest gown. Truly lasting too. A special process in the knitting insures not only exquisite finish, but great dura- bility. Tubbed as often and as easily as a handkerchief, it retains its quality and shape always. Dalby Silknit vests, bloomers, step-ins and union suits, in white, black and beautiful pastel shades, at the better stores. Dalby Company, Watertown, Mass. Mobile - +--+ -+-+-+- Fort Smith - - - - Little Rock - + + - San Luis Obispo Santa Barbara Santa Monica Auroras +++ ALABAMA - C. J. Gavfer & Co. Hammel Dry Goods Co. ARKANSAS Malcolm-Brock Co - W. B. Broadwell! Co. ¢ Cooper's, Inc Wonder Cloak & Suit Co. -R A. Watson & Co. ¢ Butfum The May Comra L. E. Miller Co Munro J. W. Robinson Co. W.G. Neely ¢ Tooker-Jordan Cort Minister's, In G. Rouse & Co Hale Bros., I Porter & Irv The Marston Company - City of Paris Dry Goods Co. Gantner & Mattern Co Raphael Weill & Co., Inc. - Charles E. Foxen & Co. - H.R. Hitchcock Co. The Kelly Co rank Friedr rescent Drv Goods Co, Model Dry Goods Co lan INNECTICUT Sa Allen & Co Davidson & I hal Loewy Marty Brown St {. Dankir s nheimer Bros. WARE ,1CT OF COLUMBIA Julius Garfincke! Co. gh & Bro ORIDA Va Parker & Reese Co. - O. Falk's Department Store ILLINOIS S. S. Sencenbaugh Co, - « Your Shop Wolf, Pollock Dry Goods Co - « Walter A. Marx Co CALIFORNIA aisle of the Thomas ILLINOIS Chicago + - - - + Carson, Pirie Score & Co. Elgin «+ ++ ee ee I. Cohicn & Co Joseph Speiss Co. Evanston - ++ ++ + ¢ Lord's - .cllogg, Drake & Co. e+ + » Francis Kilduff o«-+- +--+ W.T. Duker Co. INDIANA City South Bend + - Vin Washington + ¢ « « « H. Roberson Shop IOWA Burlington - + + + + ¢ John Boesch Co. KENTUCKY Ashland - - « « « #¢ C,H. Parsons Co., Inc. Lexing ad - « A. M. Caden QUISIANA + + Farrnbacher Dry Goods Co. New Orleans - - + ¢ L. Feibleman & Co The Exclusive Shop MAINI Po | + « Thomas Smiley Co. - « « Hochschild, Kohn & Co, The Hub Hurzler Bros. Co. MASSACHUSETTS Boston +++ eee ¢ Conrad's Jordan Marsh Co Newcomb Thornton Corset Sho Shop Spencer Corset Shop R. H. Srearns Co. R. H. White Co Gardner ++ + oo « « A. Cohen & Sons Holvoke ++ +++. McAuslan-Wakelin Co., Inc. Low Be Mald Hopkins-Blakeslee Co. levy & Tobin etty Grav Shoppe nort - - + « Bon Marche ee + - Almy, Bigelow & Washburn, Inc. o «eee ¢C.T. Sherer Co. Worcester H. G. Wendland Co, Newcomb, Endicort Ca Herbert N. Bush Paul Steketee & Sons The Alderman Co. MINNESOTA Minneapolis - - + + - La Ciel Corset Shop L. S. Donaldson Co. St.Paul +--+ +--+ - he Golden Rule MISSISSIPPI Jackson +++ -+e+e-e Gordon Brothers NEBRASKA Omaha --+-+--+-- Thomas Kilpatrick Co. NEW JERSEY East Orange + + + + + R. H. Muir, Inc. Newark ++ ++ eee Hahne & Co. Oppenheim, Collins & Co. NEW YORK Albany - + ++ + + @ - John G. Myers Co. Waldman Bros. - « Holzheimer & Shaul leer eer ere Oppenheim, Coblins & Co. - « Oppenheim, Collins & Co, c+ 4 ee Martin & Naylor Co. - Howard R. Ware Corp. - + Franklin, Simon & Co. Hearr:'s Lord & Taylor Oppenheim, Collins & Co. le New York City Schenectady +--+ + + H. S. Barney Co Syracuse ++ ++ + +e The E. W. Edwards Co. Troy - ++ +e ee ee The Gay Co. Utica +--+ ee ee ee John Roberts Co. NORTH CAROLINA cores »- J.D. & L. B. Whitted coe ee ee The Krorheimer Co. isboro + + + + + Fraser's Style Shop ount + ++ - Belk Daughtridge Co. Rosenblum & Levy - « « D.G. Craven Co. OHIO Winston-Salem leveland Wm. Taylor Son & Co. OKLAHOMA Oklahoma City - « Kerr Dry Goods Co. McMinn's Okmulgee +--+ +--+ - Knight's Lady Shop Sapulpa -+-+-+--- Green's Ready to Wear Shop - « Hunc Department Store Her passport is smartness and supple movement; her watchword, line—line Dalby Silknit Dealers : MICHIGAN PENNSYLVANIA Harrisburg + ++ + + - Pomeroy’s, Inc. Phiiadelphia - - - + + B. F. Dewees Oppenheim, Collins & Co. J. B. Sheppard & Sons Co. Pittsburgh - - - + - + Kaufman Dept. Stores Oppenheim, Collins & Co, Reading +--+ +--+ - ¢ M. B. Fritz Scranton ------ - B. J. Loewy Hosiery Shop Wilkes-Barre - - + - + Fowler, Dick & Walker York - +++ +eere - Bon Ton RHODE ISLAND Providence - + + + + * Callender, McAuslin & Troup Co. Cherry & Webb Gladding Dry Goods Co. The Shepard Stores Woonsocket + + + + ¢ Goodnow, Morse, Brooks Co. SOUTH CAROLINA Charleston +--+ > - Kerrison Dry Goods Co. Columbia - + «J. L. Mimnaugh & Co Greenwood - + + + + ¢ Beaudrot Quality Shop Spartansburg - - - - - Greenewald’s, Inc. TENNESSEE Chattanooga - + -- ¢ Schwartz Bros. Memphis - - - - - - « J. Goldsmith & Sons Nashvilic - - - - + + ¢ Castner-Knort Dry Goods Co. H. J. Grimes Co. TEXAS Beaumont +--+ - + ¢ Max Feinberg Co. Ed. i.. Hickey & Co ; Galveston + +++ + ¢ The Women's Specialty Shop San Antonio + + + + ¢ Joske Bros VERMONT Brattleboro - + + + + J. F. Austin Goodnow-Pearson-Hunt Co VIRGINIA c+ ee ee J. R. Millner Co., I Los. ¢ Rucker Dry Goods Co outh + + + ¢ ¢ ¢ Phillips- Adams Co., Inc. ond +++ ¢ Miller & Rhoads WEST VIRGINIA Charleston + + + + + ¢ Cox Dept. Store Co Fairmont + + + + + « «J. M. Hartley & Sons Wheeling - +--+ + - L.S. Good & Co. WISCONSIN Milwaukee + + + - + + The Herzfeld, Phillipson @

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+ Co, yr DECEMBER 1924 CUSTOM-BUILT EXCLUSIVENESS WITHOUT EXCESSIVE a Standard of the World DI LLA For the first time a manufacturer presents Custom-Built motor cars, with Custom-Built beauty and individuality, at prices consistent with wise investment. - + + + + + «+ + Five New V-63 Body-Types, Custom-Built by Fisher, in twenty-four distinctive and strikingly beautiful color and upholstery combinations; wheelbase 138", except the wo passenger coupe which measures 132". Price range $4350 to$4950. f.0.b. Detrott.

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bo bo The FOOT ARISTOCRATIC Among the dealers in the larger cities selling Julian & Kokenge shoes are the following: BOSTON, MASS. T. E. Moseley Co. BRIDGEPORT, CONN. Davis & Savard CHICACO, ILL. Chas. A. Stevens & Bros CINCINNATI The H. & S. Pogue Co CLEVELAND The Chisholm Boor Shops COLUMBUS The Pitts Shoe Co. DETROIT A. E. Burns & Co. GRAND RAPIDS Paul Steketee & Sons INDIANAPOLIS The Wm. H. Block Co Carlat’s Booteries KANSAS CITY, MO } Emery, Bird, Thayer Dry Goods Co. ic § Gude’s, Inc. LOS ANGELES, CAL. UInnes Shoe Co. LOUISVILLE, KY. Byck Bros. & Co. MEMPHIS, TENN. The Bootery MINNEAPOLIS Napier's Booteries NASHVILLE, TENN j ~ Castner-Knote Iry Goods Co. NEWARK, N. J. L. Bamberger & Co. NEW YORK CITY R. H. Macy & Co. OMAHA, NEB. Napier's Booteries PHILADELPHIA § Sttawbridge & Clothier ' Geuting's . § Joseph Horne Co. PITTSBURGH, PA. } {o*eph Florne Co. PORTLAND, ORE., Olds, Wortman & King PROVIDENCE, R. I ST. LOUIS, MO, UStix, Baer & Fuller ST. PAUL, MINN. The Golden Rule SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS Frank Bros. SAN FRANCISCO Sommer & Kaufmann SPRINGFIELD, MASS. Albert Steiger Co, Sullivan Company § T. J. Reid Shoe Co and many others. WALKER THERE IS ONLY ONE VICI KID---THERE NEVER ee ll Julian & Kokenge contribute to the new mode smartly conservative models in‘Vici kid HE active life of the modern woman makes perfectly fitting footwear a first essential. At the same time her good taste and keen appreciation of beauty de- mand of the shoe craftsman the utmost in distinctive appearance and pleasing grace of line. These new creations by The Julian & Kokenge Company, makers of The Foot Saver and J. & K. Arch-Fitting Shoes, demonstrate the fact that fashionable footwear was never more beautiful than it ‘ is today. The Vici kid of which these shoes are made insures easy grace and cool flexibility, while emphasizing the smart lines that costume fashions demand. Vici kid is the outstanding leather in the footwear mode because no other leather combines all the advantages of Vici kid. Its richly per- fect finish, accurate coloring and graceful pliancy make it the ideal leather for footwear for every occasion. Vici kid is manufactured exclusively by Robert H. Foerderer, Inc. ROBERT H. FOERDERER, Inc. PHILADELPHIA Selling Agents: LUCIUS BEEBE & SONS, Boston Selling agencies in all parts of the world ICI kid REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. HARPER’S BAZAR ROCKCLIFFE SUNNYSIDE FERNCLIFFE SNAPPY o> MADE ONLY BY Ay ROBT HFOERDERERINC. 4 PHILADELPHIA ; Look for the Vici kid trade mark in the Julian & Kokenge models as shown on this page. It identifies the leather as the one and only Vici kid. HAS BEEN ANY OTHER jor

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CARB yy DECEMBER 1924 q PADEREWSKI AT HIS STEINWAY > 23 é STEINWAY THE INSTRUMENT OF THE IMMORTALS Onty the most extraordinary in- sttument can meet the demands of the great pianists. It must give perfect voice alike to the exquisite cadences of Chopin, the blazing fervor of Liszt, the serene mag- nificence of Bach. It must endure years of the hardest daily practice. Always it must become a live and singing thing at a touch, ever tesponsive to the hand and spirit of the musician. And the perfect tribute to the supreme excellence of the Steinway lies in its use and ownership by such world-famous Pianists as Paderewski and Hofmann, Rachmaninoff and Levitzki. So universal is this recognition that, where only sin- cerely artistic motives are in- volved, the Steinway is invariably There is a Steinway dealer in your com- munity or near you through whom you may purchase a new Steinway piano with a small cash deposit, and the balance will be ex- tended over a period of two years. * Used pianos accepted in partial exchange. Prices: $875 and up Plus transportation Steinway & Sons, Srernway HA ty 109 East Fourteenth Street, New York the choice of the master pianists. The Steinway is made in nu- merous styles and sizes, sold at the lowest possible price and upon the most convenient terms. The ma- jority are bought by people of modest means and limited incomes. Yet they are bought on the same sound principle of economy that determines their purchase by the great musicians—that of buying the best. Always the cheapest. Always the most satisfactory. Always your assurance of the greatest advantage and return. You need never buy another piano.

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24 HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL and TRAVEL SERVICE —_—_ —— 5thAroundthe World Cruise Jan. 20th; westward, by S. S. ‘‘Cali- fornia,’’ 17,000 tons; 122 days; $1250 up. Visiting Panama Canal, Los Angeles. 18 days Japan and China, Java, option 18 days in India; Cairo, Jerusalem, Athens, Naples, Riviera, etc. 21st Mediterranean Cruise, Jan.31 By S. S. ‘‘Laconia,” 20,000 tons, 62 days; $600 up, 17 days Palestine and Egypt: Madeira, Spain, Greece, Italy, Riviera. Summer Cruise to Norway and Mediterranean Countries; July 1, by S. S. “Lancastria,’’ 17,000 tons; 53 days, $550 up. 3 delightful cruises by specially char- tered new oil-burning Cunarders, at reasonable rates, including hotels, drives, guides, fees, etc., and allowing stop-over privileges in Europe. Lim- ited membership; longest experienced management. South America; small party leaves Jan. 22. Please specify program ycu desire FRANK C. CLARK, Times Bldg., New York MEDITERRANEAN EGYPT + PALESTINE MALL select parties, under personal leader- ship, from New York byS.S. ApruiaticJan- uary 7 and February 26 and S. S. MAuRETANIA February 16. An exceptional choice in care- fully studied itineratries—37 to 85 days—from $850. Booklets on request. Motor Service From Naples Meeting any boat—the most interesting way to travel through the lovely Italian country- side—no trains or timetables to bother about. Ask for rates and descriptive literature. FRANCO-BELGIQUE TOURS CO.,Ltd. (An American Company) Longacre Building, 42nd Street and Times Square, New York City Lonpon Paris Brusstis Nap.es ta rf The OLYMPIA BEACH INN East Coat OLYMPIA Florida (Formerly Hobe Sound) Opens for the season December 15th. Finest resort on the Atlantic. American plan; French cuisine; exceptional orchestra. Private batheach room. 9 hole golf course; tennis; outdoor sports; ideal surf bathing. Cottages available for season. Rates on request. BOOKING OFFICES: New York City: 511 Fifth Ave. West Palm Beach: Kettler Theatre Bldg, The Wew de Luxe Liners to the DITERRANEAN CONTE VERDE and CONTE ROSSO SPECIAL WINTER VOYAGES TO Madeira -Gibraltar - Algiers - Naples -Genoa January 24th - February 7th - March 7th For other sailings and information apply to LLOYD SABAUDO, 3 State Street, NEW YORK HOTEL ST. JAMES 109-113 West 45th St., New York City Midway between Fifth Avenue and Broadway An hotel of quiet dignity, having the atmos- phere and appointments of a well-conditioned home Much favored by women traveling without escort. 3 minutes’ walk to 40 theatres and all best shops. Rates and booklet on application ’.. JOHNSON QUINN = | PLAN Your Winter Trip | Now ! N ORDER to get the best accommo- | dations. in order to be tt hly satisfied that you'll get to exact place you want to go, you shoul your trip now. It’s high time to plan your winter’s trip..... May We Help You? HE ALLURING VOICES of Florida, of California, andof = [-= — islands clasped in sapphire seas are becoming insistent. me _— . Che Travel Ser- “I offer sunshine and palms,” says one. “I offer rest and vice Offers These wers of gorgeous hue,” says another. “And I tempt you with : . ‘ Sowers of gorg Bete , wh Suggestions scenes as exotic as you may wish and yet with all the refinements CRUISES of life as you wish to live it,” says a third. \round the World Where are you going this winter? There are so many places Mediterranean Cruises to choose from, so many conflicting charms, that it is difficult to To the West Indies decide. And that is why the Travel Service of Harper’s Bazar _| MOTOR TOURS may be of genuine help to you. | North Africa Italy and the Riviera STEAMSHIP SERVICE Trans-Atlantic We shall be glad to give you complete particulars about any winter resort. We shall be glad to tell you about its hotels, their rates, their advantages. We shall be glad to offer advice on how Trans-Pacific best to get there and also about steamship or railroad accommo- To Bermuda dations and rates. | To Hawaii To South America Your plans should be made immediately. | FLORIDA and the South Write to | GOLF in the Carolinas CALIFORNIA and_ the Southwest oP, Pe "cacgt WINTER SPORTS Switzerland Canada We Shall Be Glad to Send Yo Details Con- TRAVEL SERVICE of HARPER’S BAZAR aities nak ax ees 119 WEST 4oTH STREET NEW YORK CITY —————__— Director.

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HARPER’S BAZAR HOTEL

orth Bahamas Make Reservations Now For Christmas Holidays at THE NEW COLONIAL

-| Opens December 22nd 4 A splendid new fire-proof hotel re} —300 rooms—overlooking m} Nassau’s harbor of everchang- | ing color.

Booking Off. 67 Wall St., N. Y. Rm. 202—Bowling Green 3300 » New 18 hole golf course, 6 cham- ! >i pionship tennis courts. A famous bathing beach— fishing —fasci- nating excursions to out- islands. 60 HOURS FROM NEW YORK For steamer reservations and booklet MUNSON STEAMSHIP LINES 67 Wall Street New York Philadelphia Chicago Baltimore St. Louis

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A Distinctive Residential Apartment Hotel

Near Plaza Entrance to the Park, opposite the Metropolitan Club, in the very social center of New York. Furnished artistically, and con- ducted at a standard commensurate with its established prestigeand location. The moderate charges enable a careful selection in our clien- tele. Yearly leases and reservations now

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age water and large wardrobes; bedrooms and suites with private baths. The famous Cunard cuisine and service. (Only one sitting for meals.) Stop- over privilege in Europe without extra cost, returning via S. S. ‘‘Aquitania,’’ ‘‘Mauretania,"’ ‘‘Berengaria,’’ or any Cunard Line Steamer. Rates, deck plans, itinerary and full information on request. Prompt reservation advisable FD

being made.

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C.M.BELLAK Plaza 3500 v Md Also European Tours FRANK TOURIST CO. 542 Fifth Avenue, New York 219 So. 15th St., Philadelphia 582 Market St., San Francisco At Bank of America, 752 South Broadway, Los Angeles 4 (Est. 1875) Paris Cairo London

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Every issue of HARPER’S BAZAR 1s A TRAVEL NUMBER F°® the editors of Harper's Bazar travel constantly from one fashionable resort to another to report for Harper’s Bazar what smart people are doing and, most particularly, what they are wearing. In America, Palm Beach, White Sulphur and Hot Springs, Newport and Southampton are represented in Harper’s Bazar during their seasons. In Europe, St. Moritz, the blue-and-gold resorts of the Riviera, Biarritz and many other fascinating places find their gayest scenes and best costumes reflected in the pages of the Bazar. And, of course, always Paris! Perhaps it is because Harper’s Bazar is itself in so many ways a travel magazine, that we can really offer you adequate information about travel. And so, we repeat once more, if there is any sort of travel information you wish, write to Miss Snapp, who is in charge of the TRAVEL SERVICE OF HARPER’S BAZAR 119 West 4oth Street, New York

Golf this winter at BELLEFAIR, FLA.

NORTH CAROLINA “Belleview HOTEL & COTTAGES Open Monday «= January 5th The management takes pleasure in announcing the completion of a new addition to the Belleview con- sisting of 144 rooms and baths, mate- tially increasing accommodations. Two famous 18-hole golf courses, with tournaments attracting the leading golfers of the country. All land and water sports. Biltmore cuisine and service. Thru Pullman to the doors from New York and Chicago. For information or | reservations, address The Biltmore,N.Y. A world of sunshine, pine fragrance, good- fellowship and SPORT. CAROLINA HOTEL, Now Open Holly Inn opens Jan. 5th—Berkshire, Jan. 23rd. ALL SPORTS IN FULL SWING

Golf (Four 18-hole courses) Tennis, Trap and Rifle Shooting, Horseback | Riding, Racing, Driving, Motoring. | Music, Dancing, Movies, etc. | Thru the entire season: —Championship events in every field of sport bringing world-champions to- gether. Special grounds and skilled instructors available for practice or instruction in the various sports. FF

Reservations should be made at once Illustrated booklets on request Address: General Office, Pinehurst, N. C. John McEntee Bowman, President | Earle E. Carley, Vice-Pres. C. A. Judkins, Mgr.

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26 HARPER'S BAZAR HOTEL |

and TRAVEL SERVICE

—— rw > = ! i | | | | | | — = = oer =~

THE LINCOLN yf {i Ny any THE NAUTILUS AU EMI \ i\\ SN wall | y \ i fr | SPR DTS ‘ A ] H},! THE FLAMINGO

4 polo fields 4 golf courses 20 tennis courts Motor boating Bathing wo ae i in — ing og o~, Ice skating ae of J SS > a (ome bo Amerivas W Winter Playground 2 Zitat “ MIAME BEACH FLORIDA Miami Beach has established its premier Position as America’s Winter Playground. It stretches its match- less loveliness along a palm-fronded peninsula on the tip end of Florida . .. . a paradise lying in jade green seas. Exciting championship events the season through. Irreproachable hotel accommodations.

FLAMINGO opens December 30 NAUTILUS opens January 10 LINCOLN now open EARLY RESERVATIONS ADVISABLE

| East Coast of Florida The Focusing Point of Winter Society SUNSHINE path of sub-tropical splendor, whereon the pleasures of today are intertwined with age-old romance. Each resort of the East Coast, complete

e e ° ° a ~ (bey Bey in its appeal, is, in fact, a harmonious (‘ld unit in a land of diversified delights. i S > y a Golf, Tennis, Surf Bathing, Fishing, .' UE Sailing, Motoring, Horseback Riding *,, VA All hotels are operated on the American plan. OPEN i] Phan a . 0 Oe eee ..« ee & te amt St. Augustine { plcazs oy See eee Jan. 5 on™ i Conga te } Ormond Sera ane ae et be <= ae ae AY i] ; Royal Poinciana........ Jan. 15 ‘ F Palm Beach { Breakers i waa oe ee Dee. 15 AN f; Miami are a Jan. 1 eet | Key West Casa Marina .. ...... Dec. 29 , Long Key Long Key Fishing Camp . . . Dec. 22 § Nassau j Royal Vi : 4 . atamne Sileade inoue WatOeme ot tt Dec. 23 ‘

Through Pullman trains and through sleepers from important cities to all East Coast Resorts, including Miami for Nassau, Bahamas, and Key West for Havana, Cuba.

Booklet containing list of hotels and other information supplied upon request FLORIDA EAST COAST RAILWAY COMPANY - FLORIDA EAST COAST HOTEL COMPANY © (Flagler System) NEW YORK OFFICE—2 West 45th St. Phone Murray Hill 4411 GENERAL OFFICES—St. Augustine, Florida

eee

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HARPER'S BAZAR HOTEL SS 7 SS THE AMBASSADOR Atlantic City The world’s most beautiful resort hotel. Open all the time THE AMBASSADOR ~ “New York's Smarte ~ “saree C7} o Ambassador A name which means hotel perfection The Ambassador Hotels System eet! The Ambassador, The Alexandria, New York Los Angeles x } The Ambassador, The Ambassador, Atlantic City Los Angeles YP “ THE AMBASSADOR Los Angeles Show place of the Pacific Coast—a miniature me- tropolis, crowning its own 27 acre park, and se typifying that hospital- ity which has made magic of the very name California. THE ALEXANDRIA Los Angeles a A famous horel Fd in a great city > ’ ~~ a Crui: Se e to the ~~ Mediterranean PALESTINE — EGYPT A pleasure cruise exceeding every expectation — Luxurious comfort, perfect service, enjoyable entertainment, on board the “Rotterdam.” Scenic splendor, strange and thrilling sights in interesting Old World lands. By the famous ‘‘ROTTERDAM”’ (4th Cruise) leaving New York, February 4, 1925. Under the HoLLAND-AMERICA LINE’s Own management The “ROTTERDAM”’ 24,170 tons register, 37,190 tons displacement Has a world-wide reputation for the magnificence and comfort of her ‘ ents, the surpassing excellence of her cuisine and the high of service and management on board. Sixty-Six Days of Delightful Diversion ITINERARY includes Madeira, Lisbon, Cadiz, Seville, Gibraltar, Algiers, Tunis, Athens, Constantinople, the Holy Land and Egypt, Italy and the Riviera. Carefully planned Shore Excursions. Stopover in Europe. Cruise limited to 550 guests American Ex ress Co. Agents in charge of Shore Excursions llustrated Folder ‘*M”’ on request For choice selection of accommodations make reservations NOW HOLLAND-AMERICA LINE 21-24 State Street, New York Boston Philadelphia Pittsburgh Chicago Minneapolis San Francisco Mexico City Montreal Or any authorized Steamship Agent St. Louis Detroit Atlanta, Ga. Seattle New Orleans | fi! 7 vl yi iy i\| wel Nay ~ {y why) di il ’ i q { | . gy od. “4 4 AND THE WEST INDIES Au the comfort and luxury of Cunard ocean travel — the renowned accom- modations, equipment, cuisine and service — may be enjoyed on two delightful thirty-day Caribbean Cruises sailing from New York Jan. 22 and Feb. 24, 1925 on the S. S. Tuscania of the Cunard and Anchor Lines. Itinerary includes: Havana, Kingston, Colon, Cartagena, Curacao, La Guayra, Port of Spain, Barbados, Martinique, St. Thomas, San Juan, Nassau, Bermuda. To EGYPT and the MEDITERRANEAN S. S. MAURETANIA, Feb. 17,1925 CUNARD and ANCHOR Lines NEW YORK or Branches and Agencies 25 Broadway

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and TRAVEL SERVICE > a It | SRE | Old Quebec is happy getting ready for winter sports... Old Quebec is busy. Arranging “fetes de glace”. And hos- pitality. .. Chateau Frontenac will be the center of everything. On Dufferin Terrace, the famous triple-chute tobog- gan slide; the skating rink; masquer- ades; the dog-sled run. On the Plains of Abraham, more ski-jumps, bob-sled runs, ski-joring. Expertinstructors and guides...Indoors, a luxurious club life. Huge lounges. Roaring fire-places. Cozy restaurants. With activity pro- vided byindoor tennis, curling, dancing in the Louis XVI Ballroom, musicales. The snow-shoe clubs extend the hos- pitality of their cabins... All Quebec bids “les Americains” welcome... It will be a glorious, glowing season, —from Christmas into March. Plan now. Information and reservations at Canadian Pacific. In New York, 342 Madison Avenue at 44th Street. In Chicago, 71 East Jackson Blvd. Or write Chateau Frontenac, Quebec, Canada. CHATEAU FRONTENAC THE WINTERSPORT CAPITAL OF WINTERSPORT LAND Z \) | Psi: WA me XO) LINES) ww” be / \' Special Features Without Extra Fare Observation Car with ladies’ loun and shower back maid and manicure, Club Car with bar. ber shop, shower bath and valet ser. XR aR, F vice. Sleeping Cars ofthe NEW SUNSET LIMITED latest type. Affording the most modern and luxurious travel appointments, without extra fare to CALIFORNIA New Orleans to Los Angeles, San Diego and San Francisco via the SUNSET ROUTE No Smoke — No Cinders — No Dust Through Dining Cars with unsur- passed cuisine. Through Sleeper to the APACHE TRAILL, famous 120-mile Motor Side Trip between Globe and Phoenix, Ari- zona. Also to San Diego through the CARRISO Oil-burning Locomotives and rock-ballasted roadbed permit open windows when desired. For further information, address SOUTHERN PACIFIC LINES New York New Orleans Houston Tucson San Francisco 165Broadway Pan-American Bank Bldg. Southern Pacific Bldg. Score Bldg. Southern Pacific Bldg, —= ONGENIAL environment C makes the voyage a house party, delightful in new friend- ships,cozy in home-likeaccom- modations, memorable for fea- tures of service long and favorably known to travelers. A reputation for cuisine and comfort attracts a distin- guished company of experienced travelers to the de /uxe steamers REsoLute, RELIANCE, ALBERT BALLIN and DeutscHLANb—and the splendid one-class cabin steam- ers, CLEVELAND, | HURINGIA, WEsTPHALIA,and Mount Cray. Frequent sailings from New York to Cherbourg, Southampton and Hamburg. MAIN LOBBY S, 5S. RESOLUTE For schedule and booklet apply United American Lines, 35-39 Broadway, New York 171 West Randolph Street, Chicago 574 Market Street, San Francisco UNITED AMERICAN LINES (HARRIMAN LINE) Joint service with -~HAMBURG AMERICAN LINE OD LIAR Lv-PR Lv Lvr-PNLvOAP-_AREERLE_ LL fel ee ,)60OrUlUe'']

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Vw & CRUISE WHITE STAR L LINE - RED STAR LINE HARPER'S BAZAR HOTEL - and T RAVE L SERVICE _ to summer skies Halcyon days aship and ashore following one another in an ever-alluring panorama of beauty. Fascinating cities spread their treasures for the discerning eye. Superb ships offer the acme of comfort to happy voyagers. In the Mediterranean White Star liner Adriatic sailing from New York, Jan. 7 and Feb. 26. Red Star liner Lapland, Jan. 17 and Mar. 8. Back in New York 46 days later. Itinerary: Madeira, Gibraltar (Al- In the West Indies Over 25 years specialized experi- ence in West Indies cruises. White Star liner Megantic, special- ly constructed for tropical cruising, from New York Jan. 22 and Feb. 25. Returning in 30-31 days. Itinerary: Havana, Santiago, Haiti, Kingston, Panama Canal, Carta- geciras), Algiers, Monaco, Naples, gena, Curacao, La Guaira, — of Athens, Constantinople, Haifa Spain, Barbados, Fort de France, (for Holy Land), Alexandria (for St. Thomas, San Juan, Nassau. Egypt and the Nile). 12,164 miles. 6,492 miles. For complete information apply to Cruise Department, No. 1 Broadway, New York, our offices elsewhere, or any authorized steamship agent. WEST INDIES January 22nd February 23rd Te cruises to the romantic Caribbean by the magnificent Orca, 25,500 tons displacement. Each cruise 29 days. Extensive itinerary. Shore excursions. Rates $250. up. BERMUDA WI NTE R “The Sportsman’s paradise”—golf, tennis, bathing, etc.—only 48 hours from New York. Weekly sailings by the palatial Aracuaya 17,500 tons displaceme nt—largest and most lux- urious liner in the service. Rates $70. up. Write for illustrated booklets “The Oy. aN THE ROYAL MAIL OYA L STEAM PACKET COMPANY New York . Boston . Pittsburgh . Chicago . Detroit . Minneapolis . San Francisco LosAngeles . Seattle . Vancouver . Toronto . Montreal . Halifax Siena : THE CRUISES SUPREME! Around the A thrilling circumnavigation of the globe on the most ideal steamer yet built for such a cruise. 130 wonder- days, traveling via the ever- fascinating Mediterranean to Egypt, to India, to Ceylon, Sumatra, Java, Straits Settlements, the Philippines, China (South, and North with Peking), Japan in Cherry Blossom Time — Hawaii-—etc. Cunard cuisine and service—plus Cruise- Direction such as only our organization’s matchless experience and resources can provide. “¢4e MEDITERRANEAN on the specially chartered Giant White Star Lines “HOMERIC” Jan. 24 to April 1, 1925 67 days of wonder travel — an opportunity beyond compare .to visit the historic wonder- lands of the “Sea of the Ancients”, traveling with leisure and in comfort on the largest, most modern, most replete steamer cruis- ing to the Mediterranean next season. An abounding itin- erary embracing all points worth-while— with a long stay in Egypt. privileges in Europe, Stopover with return by Majestic, Olympic or other White Star Liners. THOS: \COOK K & SONS ~ £585 Fifth Avenue) World Chicago \_ 253 BroadwayjLos Angeles ' Toronto | Phitadetphio \! San Francisco) NEW YORK / Montreal _/ Vancouver 29

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STRAWS AND THE SCHOOL WIND Are They Blowing Favorably for Your INSTANCE No. 1 INSTANCE No. 2 Yesterday, a mother and her eighteen-year-old Not very long ago, I ran across a distracted daughter «who had failed to pass the entrance father «who had “returned his thirteen-year-old tiieminalions fer Sita Called, shout wane daughter to public school” because he“ couldn't seem to find a suitable boarding school for her.” Fortunately, I had just heard from an old New England School which had one vacancy for a girl that age. The application failed. was mailed the same day. than an hour in my office looking over catalogs of schools I was recommending for a one year intensive review of the subjects in which she HESE ARE ONLY TWO INSTANCES of the many that come to us every month. If the school wind is blowing unfavorably in your family, why not let Harper’s Bazar act as your weather vane to gage its seriousness? Of course, you can start out to visit every school in the country and eventu- ally absorb the information we have on hand in this office. But why go to all this trouble when, without obligation of any sort, you can bring your problem to us? If you are seeking a school for the second semester, now is the time to make investigation. Even if you are thinking of a school for next year it is well to make your plans well in advance. No matter what the question, | bring it to Harper’s Bazar. ‘To facilitate matters, we have appended a coupon below. Fill it out now and return it to me today. Nonnilh 2. Chauhro Director, SCHOOL DEPARTMENT, Harper’s Bazar Kenneth N. Chambers Date. . School Department, Harper’s Bazar 119 West 40th Street, New York City Dear Mr. Chambers: I am interested in securing information about a school or schools in accordance with the requirements which I have written bel Desir« d locatior Name Address oem TRAY 1 HOR —wo

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OTR ~ TD ERT SCHOOLS ic bch ans rts yh. VD = Ss = a ==: E e £ Prarie t = Yay : aS 7 : ) es me. /f Foreign raat ttit eaten mere} tian alae i snvarrnn uate unease vara Cupane: ee es antennae tate ner eaten snr EL intone nA For LYCEE JACCARD sovs Lausanne (Switzerland) Preparation for American College and Uni- ve sity minations. Business Course- languages, Summer Course. Best equipped school i in the country. we Yrganized Athletics. e Marius = CHATEAU RIANT GENEVA Avenue d’Aire School for boys. THOROUGH fe ag ee FOR COLLEGE ENTRANCE EXAMINATIONS. Modern Lan- uages, Honours Staff, individual eeation, all sports, large grounds. Junior ‘Dept. Apply Capr. FRENCH HOM on the Riviera. Intensive Practice of French for adults. All comforts—Beautifully located—large Park— only a few quests. Chateau de la FRAYERE— annes. on »ply to: - Cannes: INSTITUT DU PANTHEON 38 Rue Poo poi bd - - - o LES HIRONDELLES First class finishing school for girls. Specially constructed house, beautifully situated. Every modern comfort. American course. Languages. Principals, MADEMOISELLE MION, MIss DANIELS. Champel, Geneva, Switzerland. PARIS SESS SWITZERLAND Institution des Essarts “hateau de la Veraye Founded in 1874. Completely reorganized in 1921) High-Class Boarding School for Girls (aged 10 to 20) Day boarders accepted TE RRI TET-MONTREUX ke of Geneva) cial Study at the. French Language and literature. \ * of Ar Modern Languages, Domestic Science, ( Music and P. patice Spor' Individual care and tuition. ) Distinguished Education. High-class references given and desired. New York— Girls BRIARCLIFF Mrs: Doms ‘School for ol for Girls Mrs. EDITH COOPER WORK | BRIARCLIFF MANOR eae NEW YO! the KNOX. S29! irls aioe Preparatory, Cultural and for Girls Courses. Varied Outdoor Life. _ Jilustrated Booklets and Catalog. MRS. RUSSELL HOUGHTON, Box B, Cooperstown, N. Y. AS ara Che Castle Miss Mason's School kin for Girls Tarrytown-on-Hudson, New York NOBLE SCHOOL For Girls from 6 to 14 KATHLEEN NOBLE JEROME White Plains, New York HIGHLAND MANOR Tarrytown-on-Hudson, N. Y. Non-sectarian coun- try boarding school for girls. All grades and courses, including Junior College and Music. EUGENE H. LEHMAN, Director, Box B. Box 942, School Information ur School from a recommended list. are here. If you desire additional nm, write Harper’s Bazar School De- 119 West 4oth Street, New York. MARYMOUNT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS COLLEGE FOR WOMEN Chartered by the Reams of the University of the State of New - Paris Branch. Write for Malogue to The Rev erend Mother. Tarrytown-on-Hudson New York Ossining School For Girls Ossining-on-Hudson year. College Preparatory. Academic, Art. and Economic Courses. Separate school for girls. INustrated year book on request c LARA ©, FULLER, Principal, Box 12B, Ossining, N. Y 58th Mosic younger located. rooms. Leading Residence Jor Girl seeenee in New Yo ity. 344-340 W. rood Street Wrs. Boswell’s Residence for out-of-town Girls studying in New York. Convenient to Colleges, Theatres and Opera. Excellent cuisine “4 Home away from Home” Girls have freedom with assurance of protection. chaperonage. Interview by appointment. Tel. Endicott 7653. or write to Mrs. Henry Harrison Roswell (Established 1916) Beautifully Schools, Museums, Spacious living rooms and bed- and service. Elective Student Home in N. Y. City | residence conve- Music, Writing, Intimate care Misses Wilds, For girls. Refined, home-like niently located for study of Art, Special Courses, anywhere in City. and _ chaperonage. Address The 59 E, 64th St., New York City. TEASDALE RESIDENCE For Girl Students and Young Women 326 West 80th St. Riverside Drive, N. Y. C. Endicott 7858 French Chaperonage Booklet Attractibe ew Bork Home ENLARG ne THIS Y den Residen For Girl Students, Cc panenae if desired. For Dookies, address t 80th Street, New York and 0046 Miss Belden FRENCH HOME SCHOOL Planned exclusively for girls pursuing special studies in New York. Exceptional opportuni- ties for French. MISS MACINTYRE or MLLE. TALGUEN 320 W. 107th St. New York City Riverside Drive New York Boys. ne ses oma a o's Coe eo Saint John’s School } School A College Preparatory with a_mili- tary system that develops manliness, obedience and honor. Business course. Separate school for younger boys. Extensive campus in the hills. Well-planned recreation and athletics Riding School with excellent stable of horses. Swim- ming pool. Write for illustrated catalogue. Address GENERAL WILLIAM VERBECK, Pres. Box 1212 Manlius, New York the STORM_KING Schoo formerly The STONE SCHOOL Established 1867 A Progressive College Preparatory School Attractive Outdoor Life. 50 Miles from New York. Cataiog and Book of Views on Request ALVAN E. DvERR, Cornwall-on-Hudson, N. Y For Girls 1006 Fifth Avenue, New York City | Facing Central Park and the } Museum of Art Complete Academic, College Pre- paratory and Advanced Studies Resident and Day Pupils | | | SCOVILLE SCHOOL | | | | | and school life in a congenial and Unusual ad- Dramatic Art. sti tir ulating environm “’ vantages in Music For catalogue, Miss Rosa B. CHISMAN, Principal | and idress ac THE BROWNSON SCHOOL Catholic Boarding and Day School for Girls. College Preparatory and _ Finishing Courses. French the language of the house. Mrs. Atwood Violett 22-24 East 91st Street. New York THE SCUDDER SCHOOL 82,,an¢ 72d St., near Riverside Drive. Practical courses: (1) High School—preparatory and general; (2) Secretarial; (3) Household Arts; (4) Social Welfare and Community Service: (5) Music—all branches. 15 instructors. Summer School. Miss H. B. Scudder, 244 W. 72nd St., N. Y. City The Commonwealth School Of Home Making and Community Sub‘ects. Regu- lar course one i: ur. Also part time courses Box B, 136 E. 55th St., New York City. 7 buildings, West _New York —Girls sedans tte eee tm aetetcte annie 141 ETL Aenea aH tet 2 FINCH SCH°°L A Boarding and Day Schocl for Gi emphasizing post-graduate work 61 East 77th Street, New York City The SEMPLE SCHOOL for GIRLS Opposite Central Park. Boarding and Day Pupils. College Preparatory. Post Graduate. Finishing courses. Languages, Art, Music and Dramatic Art. Social Life. Outdoor Recreation. Mrs. T. Darrington Semple, Principal 241-242 Central Park West, Box B, New York City GARDNER SCHOOL 11 East 51st Street, New York City A thorough school with delightful home life. College preparatory, academic, secretarial, elective courses. Music. Outdoor sports. 68th year. Cathedral School of Saint Mary = n City, Long Island, New York Box ‘ MIRIAM A, ByTEL, Principal DONGAN HALL A Country School, overlooking New York Harbor College Preparation. General Course, Art, Music. Fields for variety of sports. Riding. EMMA BARBER TURNBACH, A.B., Principal Box H, Dongan Hills, Staten Island, N. HEWLETT SCHOOL White's Lane, Cedarhurst, L. I., N. Y. miles from New York City Day and school for girls. Primary through college tory. Country life with outdoor sports. Twenty boarding prepara MRS. ME meng Ss ] aksmere School for Girls On_be autita suburban estate over- looking L. 1. Sound near N. Y. City. MRS. MERRILL MAMARONECK, N. ¥. Address, ORIENTA POINT, DREW SEMINARY The Carmel School for Girls on beautiful Lake Gleneida Small classes General and_ special | “ = cet building for Junior School. Sth year. For catalog. address Dr. C L ARE NCE MCCLELLAND, President. _ Box (02 Carmel, N. Y. STONEHENGE Brewster New York A home school in the beautiful hills of Putnam County only 50 miles from New York. Herea limited number of younger children are given the educational advantages of a governess in a real home environment. Love of children, with a knowledge of die- tetics and nursing, insure happy growing days. NEW YORK Do you wish to spend the winter months study- 1 New York? Are you, interested in Music, Dancing, ing? Harper's Bazar he right school. New York bs ed. oe Hours ident For children from 3 to 6 years of age. Afternoon play groups under special supervision for children 8 to 10. Booklet on request. Mrs. M. C. Whyte, 345 West 86th Street, New York City. | | STARKEY SEMINARY Co-educational. Endowed. Ages 12 and upward New York Regents Standards. Prepares for collece or business. Advanced work in Art and Music On Seneca Lake. Athletics. Address MARTYN SUMMERBELL, Ph.D., Pres. Box 32, Lakemont. N. Y. Che Raymond Riordon School Highland, New York College preparatory, also Business Course. Work and play carefully directed for the advance- ment boy. Catalog. Address of the individual Mrs. B. gstaken, Registrar 536 Decatur Street, Brooklyn, N. Y. HOOL AWLING for’ govs Dr. Frederick L. Gamage, Headmaster Pawling New York WOODLAND SCHOOL Boys 8 to 18. In Catskills, 1500 ft. Ideal for developing strong, manly boys, preparing for college or life. Skiing, snow-shoeing, skating. Athletics, Modern buildings, 315 acres. Erwin S. Spink, A.B., Headmaster, Phoenicia, N.Y. elevation. Johns School OSSINING-ON-HUDSON, N.Y. Small separate sos Bre iness he pares Boys for College 3 Military a ig ore for boys under 1 WILLIAM ADDISON iis A.M., Prin. NEw YorK, Tarrytown-on-Hudson M 25 miles from New York, Irving School for Boys in the beautiful, historic ‘Irving’’ country. 88th year 33 years under present Headmaster. Extensive grounds. Modern and complete equipment Prepares for all colleges and technical schools. Athletic field. Swimming ‘ool, Gymnasium. Rev. J. M. Furman, L. H. D. Headmaster, Box 913. for fifty boys. 5 to 16. Beauti- Kyle Schoo ful location 22 miles from New York. 35th year. Fine athletic - field—outdoor gym. ‘Your school looks so homelike visitor's expression. Summer Camp in the Catskills Dr. PAUL KYLE Box B. Irvington-on-Hudson, New York. SQUARE HOUSE Saint James, Long Island Fifty miles from New York 100 acres field and woodland All year normal, happy outdoor life for boys under 17. J.A SNELLGROVE, Director “HmMENNL MAREE Boys ramarMeMMMNMAE NER New Jersey custo nae MENTE 9) FREEHOLD fies SCHOOL == for boys 7 to 15. Modified military training— in- culeates obedience, orderliness, self-reliance. ‘he school with the personal touch. Catalog. Address Major CHaAs. M. DUNCAN, Box 112, Freehold, N. J. N MILITARY +‘ INSTITUTE ege or business. BORDENTOW for preparation Thorough ci small classes Efficient faculty, individual atten- tion. Boys taught Dd to study. Supervised ath- leties. 40th year ‘atalogue, ¢ our 1 D. — ANDON, Princinal and ¢ ae Drawer ¢ BORDENTOW N-ON-THI DEL tw ARE, N. J.

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32 « Progressive Schools Advertise. The Best Are New Jersey—Boys nec umemnaMe. A School for Young Boys Located in Somerset Hills of New Jersey. es boys 8 to 14 years of age for Church Boarding Rehools of New England. Simple home life in country for a few selected boys. Also ey, wT ment. Rev. JAMES H. 8. Fair, Far Hil N For the all-around edu- cation of y boys Athletic sports, 60-acr campus. Prepares for all the best colleges. Moderate rats. Forms include two Grammar and four High School Grades. 59th year ROGER W.SWETLAND, Headmaster, Box 12-S, Hightstown, N. J. Sie PRINCETON TUTORING SCHOOL Thorough and successful college preparation. Catalog, Illustrated Booklets, on Request Joun G. Hun, “ Edgehill,”’ Princeton, New Jersey WENONAH MILITARY ACADEMY A high-grade Preparatory school for Boys. Colleg* entrance. Business and special courses. Ideal location, 12 miles from teens Write for Catalog and View Book t Masor C. M. Touawce, Box 442, Wenonah, BLAIR Founded 1848 Thorough instruction. Oys endowed. Write SHARPE, LI D., Supt. N. J. A COLLEGE PREPARATORY SCHOOL FOR BOYS Imposing buildings, fully equipped Lower School for rome r for catalog Jor = Headmaster, Box Z, Bisirstown, ‘N J. New Jersey—Girls ‘A good school for Girls.” information on re- entenary F ull : oues ollegiate Pr Pres. R. J. nstitute TREVORROW, N. J. ST. MARY’S HALL For girls. Academic definitely preparing making or business. MRS. JOHN FEARNLEY, Principal, Box 418, Burlington, N. J. Box 44, Hackettstown, social training college, home- and for KENT PLACE SCHOOL for GIRLS SUMMIT, NEW JERSEY. An Endowed School. Thirtieth Year, On the Estate of Chancellor Kent in the Hills of New Jersey, twenty miles from New fork. College Preparatory Academic. Music Art, Athletics. SARAH WOODMAN, PAUL, and ANNA S. WOODMAN, Principals DW IGH FOR GIRLS College Preparation. Special Finishing Courses. Athletics, Gymnasium, Tennis, Riding Write for INustrated Booklets. Catalog on request. Miss E. S. CREIGHTON, Prin., Englewood, N. J. SCHOOL Miss Beard’s School A Country School near New York Orange, New Jersey S GILDNERS SCHOOL ae ‘a *¥ mie . my oo. ¢ > + ae al J AURA M _ GILONER A M PRINCIPAL PR NCETON » L. _Pennsyivania—Girls | The Birmingham School for bins Birmingham, Pa. Thorough college preparation and courses for girls not going to college. Gy™- ni pe swimming pool. Catalog. Address Secre ox 135, Birmingham, Pa. PENNSYLVANIA, Chambersburg PENN HALL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. Col- lege Pre paratory. Modern Language and Special Courses. Certificate privi- leges. Rooms with private bath. May each year spent at Ocean City. Work continues without in- terruption. New gymnasium and swimming pool. Rates $900. Catalogue and views. Address FRANK S. MAGILL, A.M., Prin., Box H Jenkintown, Pa. Suburb of Philadelphia. School for practical training of young women Junior College Departments, Music, Art, Home Economics, Kindergarten. Normal Gymnastics, etc. Pipe organ, gymnasium Address as above : Miss Sayward’s School For Girls. Suburb of Philadelphia. College Preparatory and Secretarial Courses. Music Domestic Science. Physical training, outdoor Sports, horseback riding, swimming. Develops character, mind and body. Write Dept. B Miss JANET SAYWARD, Principal, Overbrook, Pa GIVE able d needs of young people? detail to insure the grown-ups. schools are, just write to 119 West 4oth Street your boy or girl the right start in life. Is your child getting it? intentions, you may have the right idea, but the average parent to-day is confronted with almost insurmount- lifficulties in the bringing up of children. modern home is scarcely a place in which one can establish a schedule of discipline and instruction that will be of any benefit to the growing boy or girl. Why not send your child away then to a place estab- lished, equipped, and maintained solely to meet the Study hour, play hour, meal- time, bed-time, everything is worked out in the minutest best possible growth from happy childhood to useful maturity. Taking it all and all, there is no place in the world so beneficial for youth as a good boarding school where every hour of the day and night is planned for the comfort, care, and convenience of young people—not If you want to know where the good HARPER’S BAZAR SCHOOL You may have the best And the DEPARTMENT New York City YOU OWE IT | TO YOUTH Here are Boys orden aet oy w ang ne (Main Line of P. St. Luke’ $s School } The beautiful loc asian Ri. tensive grounds, puancoenn. experienced instruetig moral influence, make an unusual appeal to pare ma and boys. College or business preparation. june school for younger boys. Booklet CHARLES HENRY STROUT, A M., Headmaster JESSE E. PHILiPs, A.M., ‘Asso. He audmaster NA Z ARE rH. BALL A Historic School with up-to-date Admini College Preparatory and Business Course — School. Gymnasium and si ag Moderate _ Illustrated Booklet. REv. D. THAELER, Do Headmaster. Box % 50, Nazareth, Py. SWARTHMORE PREPARATORY SCHOO, A community of ambitious boys under a dorm. —— that makes for manhood. Send for catalog W. P. TOMLINSON, M.A. F. H. SOMERVILL Box 34, Pa. me Swarthmore, Pennsylvania—Co-ed. TEMPLE UNIVERSITY College of Liberal Arts and Sciences. Teachers’ College. School of Commerce. Tofessiona| Schools—Theology, Law, Medicine, Dentistry Pharmacy, Chiropody, School of Music. Training School for Nurses. University high school. Seni for bulletin. Philadelphia, Pa. New England—Co-ed. Naar EDGEWOOD A boarding and day school for boys and girls from vein et to college. Junior and Senior Departments. College eR Study and play correlated throug use of craft shops, music, dancing. Twenty acres. Bo pageantry, ™ 404, Greenwich, Conn. EAST GREENWICH ACADEMY Co-educational. Founded 1802. 7 buildings. 13 instructors. College preparatory, Academic, Busi- ness, Music. Junior School. Gymnasium and Athletic field. Christian ideals. Tuition $500. Rev. J. FRANCIS COOPER, D.D. Principal On Narragansett Bay, East Greenwich, R. |. Pennsylvania —Girls HIGHLAND HALL A College Preparatory School for Girls Modern Educational Standards COLLEGE PREPARATORY, GENERAL COURSES Two Years Advanced Work, Special facilities in Music, Domestic Science, and Vocational Training. Spacious Substantial Stone Buildings In a fine old residential town, high in the most beau- tiful and healthful section of the Alleghanies, on the Pennsylvania Railway. Outdoor Life. Supervised Athletics. Swim- ming Pool. Wee«-end Trips to School Camp. ELLEN C. KEATES, Principal, Hollidaysburg, Pa. fey HARCUM SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Thorough colle ge pre ping et or special gq study. Music, \. ew Building, eo grounds. Achictica, Rs dy Mrs. H. Harcum, B. L., Head of School, »*-4 L M. Willis, B. P., Principal, Box B, Bryu Mawr, Pa. [LINDEN HALL, wom In the far-famed ‘Garden Spot” of Pennsylvania Home Life. Gymnasium and Pool. Preparatory, General Courses, ome _Eco- nomics, Art, Music, Secretarial, st Grad- uate. Separs ate Junior School. suuetrs ated Catalog W. STENGEL, Rox 122 Lititz, Cuaiever Co., Pa. Attractive OGONTZ SCHOOL. (oer ee ge occupying an estate on the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Illustrat.d booklet describing new building mailed on request Rydal, Junior Department 1 Miss ABBY SUTHERLAND, Principal. Pennsyly ania, Rydal, Montgomery County DARLINGTON _ Fernie?) 4 4 + For Young Women Develops personality, vitality, efficiency. Sixty- acre estate Personnel Engineering, Secretarial, Domestic Science, Physical Education. Cultural Arts and College Preparatory cures. All sports. Gymnasium, swimming pool Cat CHRISTINE F. BYE, Prin., Box 622, West ( *hester, Pa. The SCHOOL QUESTION These Schools are known to Harper's Bazar, it if there is a question in your mind let u inswer it for you. Write ) pee Baza: 119 West 4oth St., New York y WILDCLIFF A Graduate School for Girls Delightfully located in a college town near Philadelphia. Elective college courses. Spe- cial work in Art, Music, Home-making, Dra- matie Art and Secretarial work. New school building includes gymnasium and swimming pool. All out-door activities. Catalog. Mr. and Mrs. H. M. Crist, Principals Box 1510, Swarthmore, Pa. ST. ELIZABETH OF-THE-ROSES A Mother School Episcopal. Open all year. Children 3 to 12. One hour from New York. Usual studies. Outdoor sports. Summer Camp. Mrs. W. B. STODDARD, Directress, Box B, Noroton, Conn. Holmewood For boys and girls from 6 to 16. _In the hill country 40 miles from Yew York. Beautiful grounds. modern buildings. ;. $70 a month covers every expense, Mrs. L. S TEBBETTS, New Canaan, Connecticut. BISHOPTHORPE, For Girls In Mts. near New York. enter all_ certificate colleges without exams. Practical courses; Finishing: H. S. & Jr. College. New _Gym and pool. CATALOG. Claude N. Wyant, Prin. Box 246. Bethlehem, Pa. MRS. CASKIN’S SCHOOL for GIRLS College preparatory; advanced academic course with diploma. Home Economies, Secretarial, Dramati Art. Piano with Thuel Burnham. Graduate school for girls not entering college. 16 acres campus Residence in separate school building. Auditorium seating 300 Mrs. LANGDON CASKIN, Haverford, Pennsylvania Pennsylvania—Boys wat im aust MO FRANKS Ge eARSHALL A Thousand Boys Prepared for College in 25 Years. Complete Modern Equipment. All Sports. Moderate Rates. Catalog on request. E. M. HARTMAN, Ph.D., Principal. Box 408, Lancaster, Pa. er ed ETTYSBURG ACADEMY A finely equipped boarding school for 100 boys. Modern, homelike buildings. Beautiful and health- ful location near the mountains. Athletic field. All sports. New swimming pool. Separate Junior Dormitory. $400 to $500. 98th year. CHARLES H. Huser, Litt.D., Headmaster, Box A, Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. CARSON LONG INSTITUTE 87th year. In the mountains, 5's hours from New York and 6 hours from Pittsburgh. Boys taught to learn, how to labor, how to live. College prepara- tory. Separate Junior School Military training Character Building Supreme. Terms $400. Camp and Summer eo ssion. June 8 to September 12, $165. Box 15, New Bloomfield, Pa. Graduates | iene oma = New England—Girls ROGERS HALL A Scnoou For GIRLs Lowell, Massachusetts Miss Orive Suewaxu Parsons, Principal MOUNT IDA SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Preparatory, finishing school. Exceptional oppor tunities, with a delightful home life. Send for Year Book. 2520 Summit Street Mass. Newton, | THE BURNHAM SCHOOL FOR GIRlS Founded by Mary A. Burnham in 1874 Opposite Smith College Campus | Miss HELEN E. THOMPSON, Headmistress, Northampton, Massachusetts. The Mary C. Wheeler School A New England Town and Country School a Girls. C allege preparatory, general and post oe uate course Advanced studio classes : Country resudenee for girls 10 to 14 years a ‘ag Providence, Rhode Island. Kendall ball FOR GIRLS Unquestioned scholastic standards. Exceptional Hall yg advantages. ROSSING . & Mrs. Charles P, Kendall Epes Cruse

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to Parents OD. Junior cadmaster audmaster a wa SCHOOL r & dormi. Send for ILLE, B.S,

and girls 1d Senior udy and t shops, es. Box ——$__ DEMY ings. 13 lic, Busi- sium and on $500. cipal h, R. LOSES 12 9 Outdoor 1 country zrounds, expense, 1ecticut.

neipal —_——_ YOL | oppor- Mass. ans 77 8S, husetts. — hool ool for t-grad- Music. of age. all ll OSSING jUSETTS

About A School Ask Harper’s 33 Bazar

in Doubt

sz

New England— Girls

LASELL SEMINARY that develops well-trained, healthful and A school tt omanhood. Home Economics, Music, oy College. P reparatory and Secretarial Course. Ar CUY INSLOW, PRINCIPAL 130 Woodl:! a Road Auburndale, Mass.

SOUTHFIELD POINT HALL For girls. On Long Island Sound. Intermediate, College Preparatory and General Courses. Music, Hersoheck riding. Outdoor life a_ special feature, Catalog. Jessie Callam Gray, Principal, {Davenport ins, Stamford, Conn.

The Gateway A School for Girls, offering a one-year tutoring course as well oe re pees ar colle; ge preparatory work.

. REYNOL ms, Principal, St. Ronan Terri wee ew Haven, Conn.

WALNUT HILL SCHOOL 36 Highland Street, Natick, Mass. y e Preparatory School for Girls. 17 miles ag +R é } acres. Skating Pond. Athletic Fields. 6 Buildings. Gymnasium. Miss Conant, Miss Bigelow. Principals.

TENACRE £.Gins io t0'1?! Preparatory to Dana Hall. 14 miles from Boston. All sports and athletics supervised and adapted to the age of the pupil. Finest instruction, care and influences. Miss HELEN TEMPLE COOKE, Dana Hall, W ellesley, Mass.

MISS FARMER’S SCHOOL OF COOKERY Home of the Boston Cooking School Cook Book. Training in cookery and household technique for home and vocation. Short and six months’ courses. Send for booklet. Miss ALICE BRADLEY, Principal, 30 Huntington Ave., Boston, Mass.

CHOATE SCHOOL 1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Mass. Home and day school for girls. Special emphasis on college preparatory work. AucusTA CHOATE, Vassar A. B., A. M., Principal.

BROMLEY A school for girls from 12 to 15 years of age. Di- rected study and play. Healthful mental and physical development under especially trained in-

structors. For catalogue address THE SECRETARY. Box 21, Heverhill, Mass. HOWE-MAROT 2G. . INS for Girls Preparatory courses and Junior College Athletics and “ports Mary Louise Marot Thompson, Conn

THE ELY SCHOOL IN THE COUNTRY One Hour from New York Ely Court, Greenwich, Connecticut

HOUSE IN THE PINES 10 Pine St., Norton, Mass. ASchool for Girls, 30 miles from Boston, College preparatory and general courses. Outdoor activities. Horseback riding emphasized.

SAINT MARGARET’S SCHOOL ~ year. College preparatory. Limited Beret. ent Secretarial and Domestic SCIEN ll Outdoor life on 50-acre farm. Aibletion —& vital part of school life. ALBERTA C. EDELL, A. M, Principal Waterbury, Conn.

pes Sope. HILLSIDE fer 45 miles from New York. Mr for colle; ge entrance examinations. General courses. Organized athletics. Margare: R. Brendlinger, A. B. (Vassar) Vida Hunt Francis, A.B. (Smith), Principals

THE MACDUFFIE SCHOOL Springfield, Mass. 3 buildings. Gymnasium, ming, Ball field, Tennis, Horseback riding. & Preparatory, General, Secretarial, and pecial Courses. Housecraft, model practice house. 12 teachers. Princi we John MacDuffie, -D., Mrs. John MacDuffie, A.B.

kind and description. exacting requirements. we shall be glad to help you. 119 West 4oth Street cA DIFFERENT SCHOOL, Nps Educational Department of Harper’s Bazar lists Schools of every We can help you find a school to meet the most If your problem is different, please be assured that Kenneth N. Chambers, HARPER’S BAZAR SCHOOL Director BUREAU New York City

!

Washington—Girls

ag DDRESS THE SECRETARY WASHINGTON, D.C

New England—Girls

New England—Boys

NORTHAMPTON SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Four Year Preparatory Course for Smith College Six Months’ Intensive Review for High School Graduates Begins in February. All sports. MRS. V N. LUCIA, Secretary, NORTHAMPTON, MASS.

LINCOLN SCHOOL College Preparatory for Girls. General Courses Modern fireproof buildings. All sports. Country life. City advantages. MIss MIRIAM SEWALL CONVERSE, Providence, Rhode Island. Principal Allen-Chalmers A Country School for Boys Military Efficiency. Upper and Lower Schools. Thomas Chalmers, West Newton, Mass.

POWDER POINT SCHOOL Will \ your boy and help him to under- stand himse " Write for booklet PHILIP BOVIER HAWK, Ph.D., oe aster, 54 King Cesar Road, Duxb ur Mz

MARET FRENCH SCHOOL Boarding & Day School. Primary, Academic, College Preparatory. guage of the school. Write for catalogue to Miss Louise Maret. oe ae one at Connecticut Avenue, Washington, D. Intermediate, French the lan-

FAIRMONT School for Girls Washington, D. C. Regular and Special Courses. Advanced Courses for High School graduates, Music, Art, Expression. Educational advantages of National ¢ Japital. For catalogue, address Fairmont School, 2111 S Street, Washi gton, D.C.

neem tty num

New England—Boys Sn

Saveveaavr iv aaa ORCESTER ACADEM FOR BOYS OF ABILITY WITH COLLEGE VISION 250 boys $1,000,000 equipment $1000 per year Worcester, Massachusetts

ROXBURY A Special Type of Boarding School Sound Instruction by Tutorial Method Classes limited to five. One master to every five boys. High Record of efficiency in Colleg Entrance Examinations. Organized Athletics. Field, Gymnasium and Track Sports under well nown coaches. Boys Accepted at any time that vacancies occur. Write for information. W. L. FERRIS, Director A. N. SHERIFF, Headmaster Cheshire, Connecticut 15 miles from New Haven [TCHRIELD realtf and Happiness achieve fine results ir the Class Room. Large estate Altitude 1100. EARLEE SARCKA Box 523 Litchfield. Conn.

MILFORD A college preparatory school for boys of 16 and Formerly the Rosenbaum School. Small classes and _ individual instruction. Minimum tuition inewuding room and board for the entire school year, $2,000. SAMUEL B. Bosenbav M, Principal, Milford, Conn

The Mitchell School A school that appeals to the American Boy and the thoughtful parent. Exponents of clean sport, fair play, and thoro work. Upper and lower school A CAN H. he ate Principal,

Sen K, Billerica

The Recto:y School Episcopal school for boys 6 to 13. Boys taken at any time. Each boy has careful supervision. Rev. F. WILLISTON A PREPARATORY SCHOOL FOR BOYS Sturdy New England Ideals A Record of Sound Educational Achievement, Write for Catalog and Illustrated Bookle ARCHIBALD V. GALBRAITH, Baituonapace, Mass H. Bice.ow, Pomfret, Conn

RIDGEFIELD A school in the festhiiie of the Berk- shires limited to boys. Six forms ee preparatory, Two hours from New York Splendid health record. THEODORE C. JESSUP, Headmaster, Ridgefield, Conn.

| COCHRAN Upper and Lower’ School 44 miles from New York City Complete preparation for college. Small classes Progressive methods Well organized athletics Constructive physical training. Age limits, 8-19 Boys ee when vacancies occur. Address T. CocHRAN, Norwalk, Conn.

WESTMINSTER SCHOOL SIMSBURY, CONN. RAYMOND R. McORMOND, Headmaster

ann Washington Gi -

NATIONAL PARK SEMINZRY James i , Ament, Ph.D. D. ent A N atio nal Boarding School for Girls in the suburbs of Wash- ington, D.C. Two-year Junior College with voca- tional courses. College oe Address tra x 170, ‘Forest ison Md.

The Misses Stone’s School Prepares American Girls for Citizenship and for Foreign Travel. American History, Literature, Art, and Government. Special Courses in Modern Languages, Secretarial a at Interior ay Wok 1700 Rhode Island Ave. N. , Washington, D. C

COLONIAL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Beautiful location in National Capital. High School, College Preparatory, Collegiate, Domestic Secretarial courses, Music, Art and

Science, ssion. Well ordered home and ee a MIss CHARLOTTE C ig NDEN STT, Eighteenth St., N. , Washingt oy DC

KING-SMITH STUDIO-SCHOOL For young women. Music, languages, dancing dramatic art; any art, academic or college subject may be elected. Tuition according to amount of work taken. MR. & MRS. AUGUST KING-SMITH, Directors 1751 New Hampshire Ave., Washington, D. C.

The SCHOOL QUESTION These Schools are known to Harper’s Bazar, but if there is a question in your mind let us answer it for you. Write to Harper's Bazar, 119 West 4oth St., New York

Southern—Girls

WARD- BELMONT FOR GIRLS AND YOUNG W/OMEN WARD-BELMONT combines high- est academic training and advan- tages of extensive grounds. and equipment with that much-sought- for Southern culture and refinement: WARD-BELMONT offers a six- year course of study embracing two years of college. Its well-balanced curriculum meets the individual needs of students. Early application for 1924-25 is necessary. Address WARD-BELMONT Belmont Heights, Box 12, Nashville, Tenn.

VIRGINIA COLLEGE for Girls and Young Women Box 8B, ROANOKE, VA. In Valley of Virginia. Elective Preparatory. Junior College. Music, Art, Expression. Home Economics, Secretarial, Library Journalism. MATTIE P. HARRIS, Pres. GERTRUDE HARRIS BOATWRIGHT, V. P Irs.

ST. HILDA’S HALL Cueteewenn w. Va. The Chevron School for Girls, Episcopal. In the Shenandoah Valley. College preparatory. Elec- tive Courses. Music and Art. Athletics. Open air classes. Individual instruction. $600. Cata- log. MARIAH PENDLETON DUVAL, Principal.

Stuart Hall, Staunton, Virginia Episcopal school for fe tye Session. Rich in traditions of the alive to the needs of Thorough }~ <A, preparation. Out- = me the present. Address Mrs. ILLS, A.B., door sports. Box H

FAIRFAX HALL for Girls In the Blue Ridge Mountains. College preparatory. Riding, Golf. 1 year graduate work. Music, Art, Home Economics. Expression, Secretarial’ 35 Modern building. Main Line, 2 railroads. Catalog. — NOBLE MAXWELL, President. Box H, Basic, Va.

MARYLAND COLLEGE For Women, ten miles from Baltimore. Four- year courses leading to all degrees. Two-year course leading to certificate. Personal supervision of strong faculty. Modern fireproof ouneines. Athletics. Swimming pool. Est. 1853. atalog. 30x 12-B, ns ol Md.

Florida School Miss Harris’ Under northern management, northern faculty. Tourist pupils use home _ text-books. Outdoor classes, ocean bathing throughout winter. Board- October to June. Miami, Florida ing and day school departments. 1057 Brickell Avenue

BRENAU COLLEGE CONSERVATORY Noted for: select patronage 30 states; pleasant social a ty meee Blue Ridge Mts. North of Atlar A.B. course; special advan- tages ~y ‘susie, yp A, art, domestic science, —— culture. 31 bui idings. Outdoor sports; swimming, boating, horseback riding, ete. Cata- log and illustrated book. Address BRENAU, Box H, Gainesville, Ga.

Page 154

) $s a _Mark of Distinction to Advertise in Harper’s Bazar

—

Southern—Boys

Western—Girls

California—Girls

Professional

up ee ive Snyder School Hiv er School College Preparatory and General Courses. Fall and spring in the mountains of North Carolina. Winter in Florida. Write for booklets. CLARENCE E, SNYDER, 935 Fine Arts Building Chicago, Illinois [ELMHURST A College Preparatory School for Girls. U Inder the direction of Eastern Teachers with Sy Horseback riding. All si rts out of Iss ISABEL C RESSLER. MISS CAROLINE SUMNER CONNERSVILLE, Indiana. THE ANNAHEAD SCHOOL 82arding 2zg 0a» High School graduates admitted without gga life year round. Miss Mary E. Wilson, Prin., Box H, Berkeley, Cal.

FAIRHAVEN SCHOOL FOR BOYS Hot Springs, Bath County, Virginia Individual Instruction. Supervised Study. Supervised athletics. Perfect climate. Boys received by the month or the term. RENSSELAER LEE (M. A. Princeton), Headmaster

B MILITARY ACADEMY College Preparatory and Business Administrative Courses. Best Home Influences. Modern Fire- proof Equipment. All Sports. For booklet **How the Boy Lives,"’ address Col. E. S. Ligon, Pres., Box M. Blackstone, Va.

TENNESSEE MILITARY INSTITUTE You owe it to society, yourself, and your boy to choose with utmost care the school which will help mould him. This school becomes a positive force in the life of every boy who enters it. Our catalog

wifl help you to choose wisely. Write. Box 52, Sweetwater, Tenn MARYLAND, Port Deposit. Tome School for Boys A national preparatory school for the leading uni- versities. Situated on the Susquehanna River Campus of 190 acres. All athletics Heavy en- dowment permits low rate. Catalogue Murray P. Brus, Ph.D.

Fishburne Military School Prepares for universities s and business life. Personal Soceneiee R. O. . under . War Depart- ment. 5th year. Ne ~w $250, 000 Tire proof equip- ment. Catalogue. CoOL. MorGAN H. HUvpGINs,

Princ., Box H, Waynesboro, Va. MILITARY STAUNTON “caoeny One of the most distinguished schools in America reparing for Universities, Government Academies, susiness. Gymnasium, swimming pool, all athletics. rf a — Charges $650. TuHos. H. Russe, B.S., Pres. = 'B (Kable Station), Staunton, Va. Frances Shimer School For Girls and Young Women. 2 years’ College, 4 years’ Academy. Music, Art, Expression, Home Economics. 72nd year. Campus 25 acres. Outdoor sports. 9 buildings. New College dormitory. Separate building for younger girls. Second Term opens Feb. 3, 1925. Catalog. REV. WM. P. McCKEE, Dean, Box 660, Mt. Carroll, Il.

St Mary-of-the-Woods COLLEGE FOR WOMEN. Standard Collegiate Courses ACADEMY, Complete high school curriculum : Music, Art, Expression. All Sports and Ath- etics. For Iliustrated Bulletins address, The Secretary Box 50, St. Mary-of-the-Woods, Indiana.

. 7 > Lindenwood College '°33"¢ 50 minutes from St. Louis. Standard College for Young Women fully accredited. 2 and 4 year courses. Home Economics. Business. Oratory, Music. 138 Acres. Gymnasium, Swimming Pool. Catalog. J. L. ROEMER, President, Box 524, St. Charles, Mo.

imeem vonnonnnsmnai California—Boys mi

MILITARY ACADEMY A BIG SCHOOL FOR LITTLE BOYS Safety — Health — Happiness For youngsters from 6 to 14. Sympathetic, Watchful, Intel- ligent Guidance. Home Care and Training. Capable, Motherly House-Ma- trons. Women Teachers in tary Grades. Open Air Sleeping Porches. ae Life in Sunny Southern Califc Mi a T raining for the Little No boys over 14 admitted. No High Paine ah oa egpe Send in applications early Beautiful Catalog talogue and. View Book. Send for ROBT. A. GIBBS, , Ronte 7, Box 948, Los Angeles, Cal. Elemen-

saa Western—Boys Wisconsin, Waukesha County, Delafield. St. John’s Military Academy 7° ,Amicrica” Eminently fitted for training American boys. Thorough scholastic and military instruction. Situated on high ground in Waukesha County Lake region. Catalog. Box 30 M H MILITARY AND NAVAL ACADEMY 70 mi. from Chicago. An endowed College Prepara- tory School and Junior College. Its distinctive advan- tages and methods interest discriminating parents. Cot. R. P. Davipson, Pres., Lake Geneva, Wis.

Missouri Military Academy Develops red-blooded American manhood, through carefully co-ordinated military andac ademictraining. Equipment and faculty exceptional. Summer school and Camp at Colorado Springs. For catalog, address CoL. E. Y. BURTON, President, Box 126, Mexico, Mo.

HORPE ACADEMY FOR BOYS UNDER 15 een bigh bluff location. Lake Michigan Shore. 30 miles from Chicago. Semi-mili- Small dum, Uniforms, Catalog. Address Lake Forest, Ill. tary.

New Mexico Military Institute state-owned cavalry school of exceptional academic standards. <= school, and junior college. Splendid equipment. R. . C. Outdoor life the year round. Every ay ‘le. Moderate rates. Cou. J. C. TROUTMAN, Supt., Box B, Roswell,N.M.

nara

carne Tutoring

PASADENA MILITARY a Coll p, Pusparatery,. Accredited. Separa’ Junior ool, grades 5 to 8. Modified Military System. Vet eeacinetionss with Christian influ- ences. Reger any time. Summer Camp in High Sierras, both cultural and i ome oT og. Camp folder. Address school, R. D. , Box 12H, Pasadena, Calif.

MONTEZUMA MOUNTAIN SCHOOL Los Gatos, California Accredited Outdoor Life all the year round

SAN DIEGO ARMY AND NAVY ACADEMY Sa ares for Colleges, West Point and Annapolis, versity of California highest scholastic rating. g hristian influences. Land and Water sports all year. Summer Sessions, ey! 1-Sept. 1. Catalogue. Address Capt. Tho: Davis, Box H, Pacific Beach Sta., San Diego, Cal.

WILLIAM WARREN SCHOOL Prepares boys for college. 50% enter Eastern Uni- versities. Open-air classrooms, aocning oo. large outdoor life Upper and Lower schools. Summer Camp at Lake Tahoe, ¢ valifornia, Catalog. Box W-8, Menlo Park, California.

HITCHCOCK MILITARY ACADEMY 18 miles from San Francisco. All year round out- door life. Splendid equipment. Experienced in- structors. Academy fully accredited by Colleges. Physical Culture, Football, Tennis, etc. Swim ming Pool. Separate room for every pupil. 47th year begins first Wednesday in September. Wri for aheetrated cenaeg to Rex H. SHERER, President San Rafael,

Teachers’ Agencies

HOLLYWOOD SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Established 15 years. The only accredited private school in Holl wood. High school and elementary grades. Outdoor classes. Mrs. LOUISE KNAPPEN WOOLLETT, Principal 1749 La Brea Ave., Hollywood, California.

THE WESTLAKE SCHOOL for GIRLS College Preparatory and Collegiate Courses. Fully accredited. In choicest section of Los Angeles. Modern buildings. Tennis, Swimming, Riding, Un- usual musical advantages. Grammar School grades. | JESSICAS. VANCE and FREDERICA DELAGUNA, Prins. Box B, 333 S. Westmoreland Ave., Los Angeles, Cal.

|The Bishop’s School For Girls. Intermediate, General, College Pre- paratory. Music, Art. Athletics. 16 miles from San Diego. Catalog. Rt. Rev. Joseph H. Johnson, Pres. Board of Trustees. Box 15, LaJolla, Cal. CarolineSeely Cummins, A.M. Vassar, Headmistress,

Pe Special Schools ter HNP

THE BANCROFT SCHOOL For children whose development has not progressed normally —FORTY-FIRST YEAR— Winter school near Philadelphia, Summer Camp in Maine. Fifty-four acres of ground, twenty-six buildings, sixty-eight employees, including twelve teachers and twenty-eight governesses. E. A. Farrington, M.D., Jenzia Coulson Cooley Addresses Box 165, Haddonfield, N. J.

HEDLEY & “Individual School" and Summer Camp For Boys and Girls who require more personal attention and individual inatruction than can be give nm in the regular schools. Academic, Industrial, Cultura! Mrs. J. R. Hedley & R. Botiey, -D. Principal Resident Physician Glenside, Pa, (18 mi. from Phila.)

DEVEREUX SCH@LS for Children whose Progress has been Retarded Three separate schools for Boys and Girls of all ages roqam uiring Scientific Observation and Special Instruct Male faculty for older boys. Tutor- ing Camp. in summer. HELENA T. DEVEREUX, Director, Box B, Berwyn, Pa.

THE WRIGHT ORAL SCHOOL For the Deaf and Partially Deaf Mt. Morris Park West, N. Y. City. Kindergarten to College Entrance. ‘A refined_board! ing and day school with home atmosphere. Large faculty. In- dividual attention. Out-door gymnasium. In- struction entirely by Oral and Auricular methods. Children from — years up accepted. Co-educa- tional. 30th year

SOUND VIEW SCHOOL FOR BACKWARD CHILDREN Davies Instrestion. Summer sy! in Maine. t St.. Portchester, + i ork. el. Portehester 1556M

THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING csrmye Seong % AvuaustTa A. BoLpT, Supts. NEw YORK, Binghamton, 112 Fairview Ave.

The Quigley Institute for Stammerere has cured every person who has taken its course. Personal, individual instruction by the founder, who cured himself after thirty years of stammering. Equally effective for children and adults. Resident and day pupils. For partiouters address = . 1727 Master St., Philadelphia, Pennsyl- vania.

FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE SCHOOL For BACKWARD CHILDREN Katonah, N. Y.—42 Miles from N. Y. In the Beautiful Hills of Westchester County. Rudolph 8. Fried, Principal.

deca PRIVATE TUTOR Semen and College hay pe Branches— odern and Classical Lan Endotend by leading schools ot the ¢ city. Mra. H. D. Roberts West 84th Street Sehuyler 3822 New York City THE FISK TEACHERS’ AGENCY Offers unparalleled service. Nearly every private school in America has employed teachers on our recommendation. | C. S. CROSMAN, 225 FIFTH AVE., N. Y.

EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN can be developed by individual training BOYS GIRLS Ah ba FOLKS Three _ separate schools. 230 acres. Booklet. Miss Woods’ School, Box 152, *Tanghorne, Pa. Mollie Woods Hare, Principal

SELES Zsa Complete Courses in All Types of DANCING £. Stage or Spectah Ade Advanced Seen - Te cates Write for Art Booklet S or Call in Pern a NED WAYBURN Studios of Stage Dancing, Inc. 1841 Broadway Entrance oon New York ‘Open 9 a.m. to 10 p. a, uae Saturday eve

ngs & Sucdayy) DENISHAWN RUTH ST. DENIS AND 'TED SHAWN School of Dancing and Its Related Arts Short Courses Always Open. Catalogue on Request KATHARANE Epson, Director, 327 W. 28th St. NY

balif Russian Wormal School of Dancing 163-165 west 57th st., x.y, LOUIS H. CHALIF, Principal “I admire your energy and ‘work, NNA PAVLOVA Fall and Winter Classes. C da ulog on request,

VESTOFF SEROVA Russian School for Dancing Russian Imperial Method of training Dancers, Ballet, toe, nature, and interpretative dancing. Several novelties. 42 W. 72nd Street, New York.

ADELAIDE & HUGHES (America's preqeementative Dancers) Studio of Dance Class and private instruction a all styles of dane- ing. Stage dances created. Children’s Saturday classes. Write for Catalogue B. 45 West 57th St. Plaza 7635.

THE HARRIETTE MELISSA MILLS Kindergarten-Primary Training School Affiliated with New York University. Removed to Fifth Avenue at 13th Street. Students admitted at mid-year. Exceptional residence facilities. Address Harriette Melissa Mills, Principal, Four B, 63 Fifth Avenue, New York City.

The Philip Mayhew Collier Kindergarten Normal children. Three months to seven years, Beautiful Shasta Region. Climate unexcelled. Individual care of Health, Happiness. Character, Twelve months’ session. Terms $1,000. EL BETH FLEMING COLLIER, Principal, Grenada, California.

School of Domestic Arts and Science offers courses in Homemaking and TeaRoom Management; actual practice in model apartment and tea room. Excellent dor- mitory overlooking Lincoln Park. Address LILLIAN A. KEMP, Director Chicago, Ill., Six North Michigan Ave., Dept. 28

TheCambridge School Domestic Architecture and Landscape Architecture A Professional School for Women HENRY ATHERTON FROsT, M. Arch. 13 Boylston St. Cambridge, Maa.

The Sargent School tice D. A. SARGENT ARGENT 12 Everett St., Cambridge 38, Mass.

SHORT-STORY WRITING A PRACTICAL forty-lesson course 10 the writing and marke ing of the Short Story taught by Dr. J. Berg Esenwel Editor of The Writer's Monthly. / page catalog free. Please address: THE HOME CORRESPONDENCE SCHOOL Dept. 19 Springfield, Mass

Dr. Esenwein

WOMEN! BECOME INDEPENDENT Improve your own appearance while learning to improve that of others Become a member of this highly respected pr fession. Marinello graduates lead everyW —are known and sought—earn $3, ‘og | $20,000 a year. Learn scientifically thoroughly at the largest and be st-equipped schools of beauty culture in the country. Marinello teaches Facial and Scalp Tres atest Shampooing, Manicuring, Marcel and Waving, Hairdressing, Permanent Wav: ing & Electrolysis Day and night classes, advanced and é — tary. Easyterms. C: 311 or write for our Se Catalog. THE MARINELLO SYSTEM 366B Fifth Avenue 806B Tower © New York City Chicazo, 14

eT} \= ed 0 F cp atic

Page 155

is & Sucdayy) NVUvtH annette VN AWN od Arts n Request. h St., N.Y, — bool of it., N.Y, iI PAVLOVA request. ———___ A ng Dancers. dancing. —__.. HES cers) 3 of dano- } Saturday st 57th St. —$—$—$————= MILLS School removed to dmitted at inexcelled. Character, ). EL Grenada,

hool chitecture 2 h. ige, Maas.

- Physical lucation juest. .RGENT Aass.

ITING course {a the —_ Esenwe: hly. 186 $3: SCHOOL id, Mass ———_——_ NT e while thers cted pro e rywhere

i Water ving y and | elemen- ur School A ver Court Ith

Courses by Master Artists Are Listed Here

Master

Professional

gesessseaeesesesassscees AMERICAN ACADEMY OF DRAMATIC ARTS Founded in 1884 by Franklin H. Sargent America’ s Leading Institution for Dram- atic and Expressional Art and Training Fully equips for Acting Teaching ‘Directing Develops Poise, Power, Personality For any Vocation in Life. New Winter Class Begins January 15 Extension Dramatic Courses in co-operation with COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY Illustrated Catalog of all Courses from Room 175X, CARNEGIE HALL, New York BEFSS FFF FSSFSSSSSSSSFSSSs

ELIZABETH MACK STUDIOS Dramatic Art and Theatre Routine Actual experience in playing and staging. Address SECRETARY, 15 W. 12th St., N. ¥Y.C

OPERA DRAMA MUSIC COLLEGE of DANCE ARTS SINGING and PHOTO-PLAY For Acting, Teaching, Directing. Developing poise and personality es- sential Tor any calling in life. Alviene Art Theatre and Stock Co. (appear a in rf debuts

Demacroms

ssed. F gy | write ouiy ‘de hosted to Secs o- ‘ose Coghlan , 43 West 72nd St., N.Y., EXT. 20.

SCHOOL of the THEATRE Threshold Players Directors Clare Tree Major Walter Hampden Rachel Crothers Six months’ fore graduation.

George Arliss Elsie Ferguson Frank Craven stock experience be- Dancing Fencing —Voice development Pantomime — Shakespeare — Play-writing, etc. Winter term opens ‘Jan uary 2nd. For Catalog address ‘‘The Director.” Princess Theatre, 104 W. 39th St., New York City

Miss OWNSENDS STUDIO SPEAKING VOICE DICTION STAGE and PLATFORM Individual Instruction — Not a school L,AMERCY PARK NEW YORK CITY

EDITH COBURN NOYES SCHOOL Oral English Drama Character Education Analysis and Interpretation of Literature, Voice, Diction. Fully E quipped Little Theatre. 17th Year. EDITH COBURN NOyEs, Principal, Symphony Chambers, Boston.

NEW YORK SCHOOL of EXPRESSION varlered by Regents of N. Y. State Unii 3ist year. Second term, Feb. Ist.. C lass and private instruction. Voice training lor publie speaking, stage. Saturday and evening classes. Defective speech cured. Catalog. 332 West 56th Street, N.Y. C.

Piladelphia School of Expression & Dramatic Art eaching—Directing. Aims to develop Indi- viduality. and cultivate Personality which will pro- Mote success in the Professional, Business and Social

a World. General Culture and’ Finishing Courses. ELIZABETH L. SCHREINER, Head of School, Chestnut & 17th Sts., Philadelphia, Pa.

MASTER INSTITUTE OF UNITED ARTS MUSIC..-P. AINTING-- -SCUL r TURE ARCHITECTURE - OPERA Ss LLET --- DRAM - LEC TURES

Send for C: ov doa, H 310 RIVERSIDE DRIVE,

Institute of Musical Art frank Damrosch—Director. Endowed. All . inches of music. Conducted only for Sar

POTTAWOTTAMIE A Camp for Girls On a private island in beautiful Gull Lake, Mich Swimming, canoeing, sailing gymnas- tics, games, nature and folk dancing, baske nature study. Girl out course. equipment, expert instructors. pices of Battle Creek Sanitarium. erate. Dean, Box R, Rates mod- For illustrated announcement, address Kellogg School of sical Education, Battle Creek, Michigan.

Page 156

36 HARPER’S BAZap ¥ for

champs-elysees

madeleine NICOLE GROULT ISTORIQUE encore—malgré sa jeunesse—la maison des Champs Vi O nne t eréator of beaulifil robes H

Elys¢es ot nous allons passer quelques heures exquises. Mais cette robes, manteaux, fourrures, lingerie 50, avenue montaigne, paris 657-659, fifth ave., new york 99 RUE D ANJOU PARIS ViIiIIt page d’histoire, trés parisienne, est fort récente: N’est-ce point chez pear la Teadekinre il Phili . , P oh ay h * ype et Gaston que fut créé le fameux manteau de zibeline d’une de nos (a) tel. Elysees 56.05 sig alles 1 vedettes les plus applaudies: Jane Marnac! Ce joyau de grand prix lui fut

dérobé dans sa loge, l’an dernier et cet événement fit autant de bruit que

la disparition de la Joconde! Le voleur ne s’était pas trompé, il avait reconnu

le style de notre premier maitre-fourreur! Des pelages d’une qualité rare, choisis par Monsieur Philippe, un de nos

experts les plus compétents, sont travaillés et enti¢rement exécutés dans les ateliers mémes de la Maison par des ouvriers specialistes. La recherche - de la coupe et du détail révéle la haute couture. Les neigeuses capes Ay : > c Of a ae) d’hermine, les manteaux de vision comme celui de la princesse Rospigliosi, a LUTON E 5} - > Ch Aq /e) voisinent avec des vGtements de petit gris et de toutes les fourrures connues, A ae IC, H ° en une vari¢té que l’on ne saurait retrouver nulle part ailleurs. Mais si la Wwe le J/\_omraower renommcée de Philippe et Gaston, est des plus justifies pour les somptueux PLACE DE LA CONCORDE De Luxe Cloves

vétements qui douillettement protégent les Gpaules féminines, leurs robes charmantes remportent aussi tous les suffrages par une simplicité trés and Hosiery 2 pasisienne. ; f La ligne reste droite et jeune, quelques détails donnant parfois l’impression Gournas in.unus de la taille un peu remontce. Nous y retrouvons la distinction parfaite du Paris / | SCREMNCS aol noir et blanc, obtenue tantot par une ¢troite bande d’hermine sur |’étoffe 10 rue Auber o) 2 hin 9 of / / yx. sombre, tantot par de splendides broderies de strass “‘Firmament” se con- ( Opéra ) stelle, sur du velours noir, d’originales arabesques de pierreries. ‘Tous les trois pi¢ces et les manteaux sont rehaussés de fourrures nouvelles: putois <avenee Piersice walla acti i ip ceeae ‘ , =k : 14, Bd de la Croisette 10, rue Mazagran lustré zibeline, lapin petit gris, li¢vre chinchilla, qui nous donnent la preuve cAn Invitation— REDFE RN TO VISIT THE PARIS OFFICE SOCIETE FRANCAISE When you are in Paris make the Paris office of Harper’s Bazar your headquarters for all sorts of information—about shops, hotels, R BE resorts, schools and so forth. It is in the heart of fashionable Paris. ines ve The address is: 2 rue de la Paix 242, RUE de RIVOLI uerin let oh PARIS ie fees Lingeriés 7 , THE SMARTEST HAND BAGS Deauville Paris Plage FANCY NOVELTIES Nice iN TORTOISE SHELL PLACE DE LA BOURSE s - Ree PARIS 243, Rue Saint-Honoré 10,Rue de Castiglione me Place Vendéme PARIS BIARRITZ PARIS AIX LES BAINS | MONTE CARLO S een

Page 157

ZAR wi es for DECEMBER 1924

BEER COUTURIER Permanent exhibitions of the latest creations in tailor made dresses, mantles, furs, and tea-gowns 7. Place Vendome Paris

FEI Eee SS

VAQUIN COUTURIER: * is now showing his new collection 10, rue de Castiglione PARIS

) ) IANNANANUANNED y y

que Philippe et Gaston savent traiter les peaux modestes comme les plus onereuses et rcussir dans tous les genres. Nous aimons aussi ce retour de la dentelle remarquée sur plusieurs de leurs créations. Voici encore les capes de velours clairs ou de chatoyants tissus qui seront admirées a la sortie de nos grandes soirécs. Car cette année |’on nous promet des salles de spectacle, des “grands soirs” qui seront un régal pour les yeux. Nous y verrons sur les jolis bras la grace charmante du gant long, complément indispensable de la robe de soirée. La recherche dans tous les accessoires, et surtout dans le gant qui parfait ’harmonie de la toilette est un precieux raffinement qui révéle la véritable élégante. Celle-ci attache un prix infini a la coupe, a l’extréme finesse de ces délicieux écrins de la main. Elle a son gantier attitré, comme son cou- turier favori, aussi Alexandrine habille les plus jolis petits doigts de I’Ancien et du Nouveau monde. [lle les revét d’un sucde aussi souple que délicate- ment nuancé. ‘Toute la gamme exquise d s beiges rosés est chez elle en faveur cette année. Alexandrine, avec un talent de créatrice constamment renouvelé, imagine sans cesse des modéles nouveaux. Elle les étudie comme la grande couture fait pour la robe, et présente aux acheteurs et commissionnaires, chaque saison une collection inédite dont les détails sobres et discrets portent la marque du bon faiseur. Les femmes du monde les plus connues comme la Baronne de R... Tanny Heldy confient leurs jolies mains 4 Alexandrine dont les gants disent- , les artistes ccl¢bres Mademoiselle Ch. de l’Opéra, elles ont de Vesprit **jusqu’au bout des doigts!”’ Gl tte Shacibrcece. ae

Doucet 21. rue de la Paix Paris <a Robes Manteaux Fourrures Lin gerie

oo The Moment You Arrive in Paris ELIZABETH ARDEN 2, rue de la Paix Telephone: Central 04-28 For a Cleansing, Stimulating LONDON Skin Treatment NEW YORK

MARTHE PINCHART | | cout Fourrure Lingerie , Dresses Mantles PARIS Furs Lingerie 9 Faubourg St. Honoré : (Anct. Place Vendome) 2.RueVolney, Paris :

MARTIAL & ARMAND COUTURIERS PARIS 10, Place Vendéme 13, Rue de la Paix LONDON 19, Albemarle Street (Piccadilly)

S@ Blanche L ebouvier COUTURE NM ADAME Marie-Louise, Manageress, presents the new collection in Dresses, Mantles etc. ? 3, rue Boudreau (Opposite the Opéra)

Brandt 16, rue de la Paix Paris

Fourrures Robes—Manteaux Lingerie

Page 158

Qhore to hor in Cleuw Ni aturally : SHOPPING Headquarters in New York | ‘Of and on Fifth Avenue,” The Waldorf-Astoria is naturally the topping place of those who seek the full measure of enjoyment fron a period of shopping on that | famous thoroughfare. Its varied restaurants provide gay rendezvous for luncheon or dinner. while at tea-time the ming Sherry Shop is throaged with New York and out-of-tow: sl opper who find it so convenient and restful after a day along the Avenue And after the theater there supper dancing in the South Café Che Waldorf-LNstoria Fifth Avenue, 33rd and 34th Streets NEW YORK Boomer—du Pont Properties Corporation $5.00 100 Puck MONOGRAM TRADE MARK MATCH PACKS With Your Own Initials Colors of Match Packs: Gold, Silver, Light Blue Blue, Orange, Yellow, Green, Purple, Lavender Ce ere of Ay ay Gold, Siiver, Black, White, Red, Blu -n, Yellow, Lavender, Gun Metal Bia k The only match the Giscriminating hostess can use on the th ning, bridge h Jongg table A Charming Gift ina jerbrth Pac. age. order and check at once to THE CAN-DLE-LUXE SHOP ANDLES OF QUALITY) 619-H Madison Avenue New York Carried by such smart shop Lord & Taylor Alfred Dunhill Ltd. B. Altman & ¢ The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Amazing! but true You can ‘‘erase’’ needless hair From face instantly. Dry application Odorless. Harmless Wonderstoen; a round, pink disk (size powder puff) leaves skin smooth and clean Money back guurantee. Price $1.25 At your Drug Dept. or Beauty Shop or trom manufacturer direct, $1.35. BELLIN’S Wonderstoen) Send for Free Booklet 500 Fifth Avenue, Dept. H, New York | New York ‘ Social Calendar for December DECEMBER 1 DEC Monday Opera Supper Club, Sherry’s. 7EMBER 2 Afternoon reception by Mr. and Mrs. Howard Mck. Kirkland to introduce their daughter, Miss Jane Kirkland, No. 73 East goth Street. First Yorkville Supper Dance, Ritz Carlton Hotel. DECEMBER : Afternoon reception by Mr. and Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt to introduce their daughter, Miss Anna Roosevelt, No. 47 East 65th Street. Luncheon by Mrs. Rollin Kirby to introduce her daugh- ter, Miss Janet Kirby, Pierre’s. Wedding of Miss Marion Choate, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph H. Choate, jr., to Charles B. Harding, son of Mr. and Mrs. J. Horace Harding. DECEMBER 4 Luncheon by Mrs. Nevett Steele Barstow and Mrs. Herbert Barry to introduce their débutante daughters. Miss Edith Barstow and Miss Eleanor Barry, respectively, Colony Club. DECEMBER 5 First of the Junior Assemblies, Ritz Carlton Hotel. Dinner by Mr. and Mrs. Phillips B. Thompson in honor of their débutante daughter, Miss Phyllis Thompson, Park Lane. Dinner by Mr. and Mrs. Everett Colby and Mr. and Mrs. Allison Wright Post in honor of their daughters, Miss Edith Hyde Colby and Miss Alice Post, respectively, Ritz Carlton. First meeting of the Saturday Tea Dance Club under the direc- tion of Mrs. Lindsley Tappin, Park Lane. Pall Mall Supper Club, Lorraine Hotel. DECEMBER 6 Supper Dance by Mrs. Henry Wainwright Howe to present her débutante daughter, Miss Helen F. Potter, Pierre’s. Dinner dance by Mrs. Walter S. Gurnee and Mrs. John Bowne Mott in honor of Miss Lucy Gurnee, Park Lane. First of the Mid-Year Dances, Ritz Carlton Hotel Supper — by Mrs. Henry Wainwright Howe i in honor of her daughter, Miss Helen F. Potter, Pierre’s. DECEMBER I1 Dinner dance by Mrs. Henri P. Wertheim van Heukelom to introduce her daughter, Miss Katherine van Heukelom, Sherry’s. Morning musicale, under direction of Andreas de Segurola, Plaza Hotel. DECEMBER 12 December Ball for benefit of Grosvenor Neighborhood House, Ritz Carlton Hotel. Dance by Mr. and Mrs. Irving Brokaw to introduce their débutante daughter, Miss Mimi Brokaw, Pierre’s. Ball by Mrs. James Roosevelt in honor of her granddaughter, Miss Anna Roosevelt, Colony Club. First meeting of Miss Edith M. Benjamin’s dancing class, Sherry’s. 3all by Mrs. Richard de Wolfe Brixey to present her daughter, Miss Doris M. Brixey, Ritz Carlton Hotel. DECEMBER 13 Ball by Mr. and Mrs. George Clinton MacKenzie, in honor of their daughter, Miss Cornelia MacKenzie, Park Lane. Ball by William P. Wainwright, in honor of Miss Nancy Pearson and Miss Phyllis Thompson, Colony Club. HARPER’S BAZAR An Ideal Gift Genuine Leather MONOGRAMMED MEMORANDUM CARD CASE including 50 CARDS fear and three extra memoran. dum fillers. Monogram stamped in gold Combination $ Comp'ete for . For Vest Podies: or Ladies’ Hand Case and 100 cards instead of 50 . sa Monogrammed case only three extra fillers 1.00 100 cards only without case.....--- 1.50 Cards furnished are correct ladies’ and | men's social or calling size, embossed like die-engray. ing. Write name clearly anc whether Gothic or Old English lettering. Important: print clearly monogram for case, placing initial of last name in center, (unless otherwise desired) in monogram of three letters; enclosing check, money order or eT West of the Mississippi, and U. ray possessions, and ¢ - aaa add $.10 elsewhere, add $.2 Orders mailed back completed within six days from receipt. REGAL PRODUCTS CO. Individual Stationers 112 Fourth Ave. NEW YORK CITY Send for sample sheets of embossed personal stationery Special Holiday Offer SOLID BRASS CANDLESTICKS S 50 THE PAIR EAUTIFUL— Decorative These Jacobean Candlesticks will solve your gift problems. 12” High, 4144” Diam. Base. Genuine Solid Brass Weight per Pair— 2% Pounds. Mailed immediately upon receipt, money order or check. Free, insured, deliv- ery within 150 Miles from New York City; Beyond, Post- age Collected. Satis- faction guaranteed or money refunded. BOOK OF BRASS ARTICLES for In- terior Decorations MAILED FREE, BARD ART CO. Manufacturers 26 West 36th St. view Yo S All consultations and treatments are in the SM MT ML! DA LUT Ti Give Two Weeks to Beauty and Rest N aperiod of sequestration of from ten days to two weeks, Madame Mays’ scientific method gives you new youth and new beauty. Wrinkles, freckles, lines about the eyes and relaxed tissues of the face and throat are re- placed by a skin of fine youthful texture Clients from outside New York, while té aking the treatment, have all the comforts an luxury of anelegantly .ppointed private home. strictest confidence. Two weeks’ rest and then new beauty— isn’t it worth while? Complete details and a booklet on request MADAME MAYS 50 West 49th Street New York for D: Hz

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yp DECEMBER 1924 39 Pore wo hop in ‘Teur YorR “Ti aes ae tA 1o—— and IMPORTED NOVELTIES requests the pleasure of co-operating with you in the selection of your CHRISTMAS GIFTS SPECIAL = XMAS OFFERING MANY. Kvely and ? Piece Lingerie Set from $5.00 to $10.00 of finest material may be seen at her | hand made, with | real lace trimming. smart Little Studio by appointment Plaza 2312 108 East 56th St. Exhibition Waldorf Astoria December 18th-24th inclusive Room 117 LIDS Se pa re ag ieee St, The. SAC > /| 1IOW.SOTHST, NEW YORK Paris Sends— YOUTHFUL FASHIONS » for Fastidious Young People To create wardrobes of marked individuality for children is the privilege of FAIRYLAND. Everything for Infants and Little Boys and Girls to 12 Years Models of exquisite simplicity, designed, stitched and embroidered in Paris by French Needlewomen. Imported Toys Lenci Dolls Portrait Dolls MADAME WILL BE j SERVED BY FRENCH 4 SALESWOMEN y BuwckSeirs MILLINERY 6 West 57: Street A step from Fifth Avenue NEW YORK The W orld’s Show Place of Fashion HATS, GOWNS, COATS and WRAPS Prices Never Excessive New York Social Calendar for December DECEMBER 16 Second annual Cholly Knickerbocker Charity Ball, Park Lane. Annual Santa Claus Recital and Ball for benefit of the Voice Training Scholarship, Plaza Hotel. Second Yorkville Dance, Ritz Carlton Hotel. DECEMBER 19 Supper dance, by William G. Low, Jr., in honor of his daughter, Miss Rhoda Low, Ritz Carlton Hotel. Annual ball, under the direction of Mrs. William K. Vander- bilt, 2nd, for the benefit of the Big Sister’s Organization, Plaza Hotel. DECEMBER 20 Supper dance by Mr. and Mrs. John Bernou Bouvier to intro- duce their twin daughters, the Misses Maude and Michelle Bouvier, Sherry’s. Supper dance by Mr. and Mrs. John S. Phipps to introduce their daughter, Miss Peggy Phipps, Pierre’s. Afternoon reception by Mr. and Mrs. David Banks to present their daughter, Miss Jean Van Voorhees Banks, No. 1155 Park Avenue. Dance by Mr. and Mrs. Elon Huntington Hooker in honor of Miss Helen Hooker, Colony Club. DECEMBER 22 Dance by Mrs. Dallas Bache Pratt in honor of her grand- daughter, Miss Curgie Winchester, Colony Club. Dance by Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Owen Edmonds to present their daughter, Miss Helen Ormonde Edmonds, Sherry’s. Dance by Mr. and Mrs. David H. Taylor to introduce their daughter, Miss Eva Taylor, Plaza Hotel. Dinner by Mr. and Mrs. Colby M. Chester, jr., in honor of their daughter, Miss Mary Chester, Pierre’s. DECEMBER 23 Middle Holiday Dinner Dance under direction of Mrs. William R. K. Taylor, Plaza Hotel. Ball by Mr. and Mrs. W. Albert Pease, jr., to introduce their daughter, Miss Martha Carroll Pease, Ritz Carlton Hotel. DECEMBER 24 Ball by Mr. and Mrs. William R. Willcox to introduce their daughter, Miss Josephine Havemeyer Willcox, Ritz Carlton. Senior Holiday Dance, under the direction of Mrs. William R. K. Taylor, Plaza Hotel. DECEMBER 26 First Colony Dance, Ritz Carlton Hotel. 3all by Mr. and Mrs. G. J. Guthrie Nicholson to introduce their daughter, Miss Mary Nicholson, Colony Club. “Vanity Fair” for the benefit of the Mineola Home for Ca.diac Children, Waldorf-Astoria Hotel. DECEMBER 27 Metropolitan Dance, Ritz Carlton Hotel. Ball by Harold Fitz Gerald to introduce his daughter, Miss Eleanor Fitz Gerald, Colony Club. DECEMBER 29 Ball by Mr. and Mrs. Forsyth Wickes to introduce their daughter, Miss Fanny Wickes, Ritz Carlton Hotel. Dinner Dance by Mrs. Harry Ulysses Kibbe for her daughter, Miss Dorothy Kibbe, No. 1148 Fifth Avenue. Ball by Mrs. Frank A. Vanderlip to introduce her daughter, Miss Narcissa Vanderlip, Plaza Hotel. Dance by Mr. and Mrs. Henry Schniewind, in honor of their daughter, Miss Ethel Schniewind, and ab son, Henry Schniewind, 3rd, No. 8 East 79th Street. Ball by Robert D. Wrenn to introduce his daughter, Miss Grace Wrenn, Ritz Carlton Hotel. 18 East 46th St NEW YORK Youthful and Becoming Gowns & Hats for PETITE MADAME and SMART MADEMOISELLE . t Ls Suits - Wraps - Gowns | | Ss4(i Dancing — Evening (Costumes RAY MORRIS have you know X her shop nS MUAHHH TH will be glad to OF DISTINCTION The New Evening Coiffure as worn by the smart Parisienne requires the addition of the * ““Chignon a la Gar- conne,” found only at Schaeffer's. Previously waved hair protected against injury by our New Process. Absolutely no danger of discoloration to White or Gray hair. Copyright 1924 * Trademark Phone for appointment, Bryant 7615 J, SCHAEFFER, 590 FIFTH AVENUE ~ \ Near 48% Street _¢ en Re COLLOIDAL UIT Hi TRU UII mile eill From the materials that everybody is wearing, it is the talent of the French Bootery to make slippers worn only by the smartest. Witness the aristocracy of this model of blac velvet and satin. 36 W. 50th St.NY. Style Card on Request

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40 Unusual Gifts Beautiful jewelry, smart accessories and rare art objects se- lected abroad make delightful holiday gifts. BLUM’S Congress Hotel Block CHICAGO Peauie Powell (Formerly Miss Pearlie) 320 Michigan Ave., North Chicago’s Newest and Smartest Shop The newest in Dinner and Evening Gowns. Modes that are authentically correct Pearlie Powell parfum et eau de toilette LA PERLETTE MON CAPRICE Established 1856 W. P. Nelson Company N, J. Nelson, President 614 8. Michigan Avenue Chicago cArt Objects cAntiques Lamps and Shades Period Furniture 2 Decorative Ideas 2 Ju st North of the Blackstone © af Chicago’s Social Calendar for December DECEMBER 4 Annual Bazaar of St. Chrysostom’s Episcopal Church; Mrs. John Gott, general Chairman. DECEMBER 5 A ball given by “Some Bachelors’; at the Congress Hotel. Mr. Hugh Blythe in charge of arrangements. DECEMBER 6 Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. Ralph M. Shaw at the Blackstone to introduce their daughter, Miss Louise Tyler. Dinner-dance at the Fortnightly Club given by Mr. and Mrs. William B. ReQua for their daughter, Miss Eloise ReQua. Wedding of Miss Isabelle Robbins, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Henry S. Robbins and Charles Woolworth Isaacs, Jr., in Fourth Presbyterian Church, followed by a reception at the bride’s parents’ home, 1100 Lake Shore drive. Début-tea given by Mr. and Mrs. Robert K. Thorne for their daughter, Miss Roberta Thorne. Wedding of Miss Helen Schulze, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Paul J. Schulze, and Edgar Burch of Baltimore. DECEMBER 12 Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. Charles H. Morse at the Black- stone to introduce their daughter, Miss Martha Morse. Dinner-dance at the Casino given by Mr. and Mrs. John Stuart to introduce their daughter, Miss Joan Stuart. DECEMBER I4 The first of the Assembly balls; in the Gold Room of the Congress Hotel. Mr. Robert A. Gardner in charge of arrange- ments. DECEMBER 19 3all given by Mr. and Mrs. C. Frederick Childs at the Black- stone to present their daughter, Miss Claire Childs. A dinner-dance at the Casino, given by Mr. Frederick Nor- cross, to introduce his daughter, Miss Catherine Norcross. DECEMBER 20 Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. Warren C. Fairbanks at the Blackstone to present their daughter, Miss Edith Fairbanks: Dinner party given by Mr. and Mrs. Walter C. Carroll for Miss Mary E. Carroll at the Blackstone preceding the Fair- banks ball. HARPER’S B (ZAR For Christmas The displays of French lingerie and boudoir accessories here offer many happy gift suggestions. 512 Michigan Blvd.. South AT ZORKS CHICAGO GALLERIES You are always Welcome to enjoya visit with those--- ---intimate pieces that are so necessary in the modern home. Special prices now prevail on many --- fine piecese RARE FABRICS ESTIMATES FURNISHED FOR COMPLETE ROOMS FINE FURNITURE DAVID ZORK CO. 201- 207 MICHIGAN BOULEVARD NORTH cAuthoritative in Chicago — Furs + Cloth Coats + Millinery JOHN LSHAYNES MICHIGAN AT RANDOLPH America’s Smartest Footwear CAWORED co CH WOLFELT CO RBOOTE RY mart Shoes for Women CLARENCE J. STEVENS Curtis H. WoLFELT vj a 7 / \ SU 1 \ ~ it \ Hummingbird Always Something New for the Follower of Footwear Fashion — jor

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| rm * anes for DECEMBER 1924 Qhore to phopre iy Martha Weathered Shop THE DRAKE HOTEL Devoted to the requirements of those seeking the Uxtra In Apparel Weathered Misses Shop CPPOSITE THE DRAKE N MICHIGAN AVENUE in Chicago as on Fifth Avenue in New York; on the rue de la Paix in Paris as in Bond Street in London, Harper’s Bazar is recognized as the de luxe magazine of fashion and society. Harp er’s Bazar -wwtoxvox 50¢ 6-fr. IN PARIS | | | | | | ONGC: NEW YORK RIN PARIS and 600 Michigan Boulevard, South CHICAGO The ORIGINATIONS of SALLY MILGRIM “America’s Foremost Fashion Creator”’ GOWNS-FROCKS.SUITS WRAPS - FURS Shown simultaneously in Chicago and New York MILLINERY + NEGLIGEES - LINGERIE ACCESSORIES ee Chicago’s Social Calendar for December DECEMBER 22 Tea given by Mr. and Mrs. George Owens Clinch to present their daughter, Eleanor, at the Fortnightly Club. Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. Edward Hines at the Blackstone to introduce their daughter, Eleanor, to society. Eli Bates Settlement to profit from the opening performance of the Music Box Revue at the Illinois Theater, Mrs. Arthur L. Farwell, chairman. DECEMBER 23 Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. John F. L. Curtis at the Blackstone to introduce their daughter, Miss Dorothy Curtis. Dinner-dance at the Casino, given by Mr. and Mrs. William Van Doren Wright to introduce their daughter, Miss Briar Wright. DECEMBER 24 Dinner-dance at the Casino, given by Mr. and Mrs. Cuthbert Adams for their daughter, Miss Katherine Adams. Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. Walter R. Kirk at the Blackstone for their daughter, Miss Barbara Kirk. DECEMBER 25 Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. William J. Nelson at the Black- stone for their daughter, Miss Katherine Nelson. DECEMBER 26 Ball given by Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Richardson at the Black- stone for their daughter, Miss Bluford Richardson, and Miss Sarane Otis, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Ralph C. Otis. DECEMBER 27 Miss Marion Fulton, daughter of Mrs. Frank M. Fulton; a tea at Indian Hill Club. DECEMBER 29 Mr. and Mrs. John W. Beckwith, a dance for their débutante daughter, Miss Maryanna Beckwith. Dinner-dance given by Mrs. John W. Gary at the Fortnightly for Miss Mary Fentress. Princeton Triangle Club performance, Eighth St. Theatre. DECEMBER 31 Junior Assembly Ball at the Belmont Hotel, Mrs. Edward R. Litsinger, chairman of patronesses. The Yale, Glee, Banjo and Mandolin Clubs’ concert at Eighth Street Theatre, formerly known as the Aryan Grotto. \ CHICAGO 41 Hlackstone Shop Southern sports, daytime and evening attire Also styles for the holiday festivities 630 Michigan Blvd., S. Harper’s Bazar as a Christmas Gift HAs BAZAR is an all-the-year-round Christmas present. Every month it comes knocking at your friend’s door with a new “Merry Christmas” to remind her of your thoughtfulness. The subscription price is $4.00 a year. Also, to each of your friends who receives this gift will be sent a particularly nice Christmas card notifying her, just before Christ- mas, that you are sending her the Bazar as a gift. Send your orders to Miss Dunbar, Harper’s Bazar, 119 West 40th Street, New York, and they will receive personal attention. aS) ae We eo cAnna Horshak Co Gowns— Coats— Suits— Hats Distinguished styles for wear on every Southern occasion —* ‘always in exquisite taste’ Ten Michigan Boulevard, North CHICAGO Suggestion Dainty Normandy Lace hand- embroidered pillow case and silk covered down pillow. S().00 Delivered prepaid anywhere in U.S. % if University Club Building CHICAGO TWINSKY 36 South Michigan Boulevard Telephone Randolph 0999 | he finn Store 2G

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42 HARPER’S BAZap (Ofore tor Dhow in, Boston cA n unusual offerisnss: oft the smarter women’s apparel torevery kind of wear. HF. .O.Connor cOMPAWN Y 157 TREMONT STREET BosTON ~ —— Fiat — { J SUGGEST THIS Diamond and Sapphire Ring FOR HER CHRISTMAS Real, deep color Sapphire surrounded by four fine qual- ity Diamonds, set in hand- wrought pierced and chased mounting of 18-kt white gold. Price (special value) $100 — wer JEWELERS FOR OVER 100 24 Winter St., Boston YEARS | Smart San Francisco shops at Liebes? furs:frocks:-coats suits-hats and accessories KOS 6Ce: Grant Avenue at Post Street San Francisco Portland, Ore. Broadway at Morrison Tremont Street from Boston Common Winter Sports in New England EW ENGLAND, which has gained the title of “America’s Summer Playground,” may well deserve the title of its winter playground as well. It is a compara- tively recent thing, this enthusiasm with which people plunge into winter sports and it is an enthusiasm to which New England gives every aid of nature. The long snow-covered hills, the meadows as white as once they were green, the lakes and rivers where the ice is of glasslike surface—here is everything to lure the man or woman who skis or skates or snowshoes. Boston of course is the starting point for innumerable resorts which feature winter sports; and in Boston’s smart shops may be found every item of equipment and costum- ing which sports call for. This is indeed as it should be. For how much the appropriate costume adds to the zest of any sport! | has been defined as one who ATrue Bostonian —reads the Boston Transcript —subscribes to the Symphony Orchestra And has a charge account at HOVEY’S, Boston’s oldest department store. C.Fffovey Co Summer, Chauncy & Avon Sts, WHERE to SHOP in CALIFORNIA Petes has long been a most ardent patron of the arts; opera in California has flour- ished more consistently than almost anywhere else in America and the cafés of San Francisco have vied with those of Paris in the painters and writers and poets to be found in them. In fact, in many ways, the cultural background of California is similar to that of Paris. Per- haps that is why in California one finds such a thorough appreciation of the art of dress. The shops of California show costumes and accessories that are a delight to discriminating women; and these women have come to realize that the things they buy in these shops are as smart as they will find anywhere. TMAGNIN & CO, Grant Avenue «a Geary Chireet Clan Cfrancisco mporters and Retailers of EXCLUSIVE APPAREL and ACCESSORIES ‘Worttn Sa Misses HOLLYWOOD 6340 Hollywood Blud LOS ANGELES The Ambassador PASADENA Hotel Maryland CORONADO Hotel Coronado SANTA BARBARA The Arlington DEL MONTE Hotel Del Monte hp | a ae FN Grace Vincent is showing bewitching dance or dinner frocks and new models in wedding gowns in her new Salon just now WRAPS HATS SUNS GOWNS SPORTSWEAR MOIR GRANT GOWN SHOP iINe. 254 BoyLsTON STREET- BOSTON

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iL a eS # | for DECEMBER 1924 Gray Hair Banished in 13: minutes Tourists returning from Europe first brought to this country the tint which in 15 min- utes banishes gray hair permanently. Today IN- ECTO RAPID Notox created byscienceexpressly for coloring the sensitive organism of human hair, is available to every American woman. INECTO RAPID Notox is specifi- cally guaranteed to reclaim perma nently the original color dom: streaked or faded hair. It may be had in 12 shades, from radiant blonde to raven black; and even under the closest scrutiny its application cannot be detected. It will neither rub off nor be affected by shampooing, curling, salt water, perspiration, sunshine or Turkish or Russian baths. It will not affect permanent waving—and permenant a & does not affect INECTO Notox. ae, no para- phenylene diamine. The highest class Hairdressers from coast to coast use and endorse INECTO RAPID Notox as do the many thousands of American women who apply it with invariable success within the privacy of their own homes. Beware of imitations — look for NOTOX on the package. SEND NO MONEY Merely ask us to send you full partic- ulars about INECTO RAPI ID Notox and our Beauty Analysis Chart J-30. INECTO, Inc. Laboratories and Salons 33-35 West 46th St., New York, N. Y. Sold by best Beauly Shops, Drug and Department Stores 1, ritttarey iN RAPID Direct by Mail to You FRESH, : rich and wonderfully delicious are the Pecans from Pecanway. Pecanway shells are so delicate that they can be cracked easily by pressing two nuts together in the palm of the hand, allowing the meat to be extracted in perfect halves. A pound of Pecanways yields full 10 oz. of meats as compared with the 7 or 8 oz. given by a good commercial variety of pecan. Pecanways are the cream of the crop from the highly cultivated trees. Order a Gift Package today for yourself or friend. Money returned if not satisfied. Sold only in 3 and 5 lb. packages. 3 Ib. package, postpaid $3.50 5 lb. 5.50 Add 50 cents additional postage for shipments west of Mississippi. Their attractive package makes Pe- canways a novel gift, highly appre- ciated by every man, woman or child. M. O. DANTZLER E. Pecanway Place Orangeburg, S. C. Your Boy He will have more leisure than you had. And yet, with the aid of electri- city, he will do more than you did. There is energy in Nature to provide for all mankind. A large part of the work of the General Electric Company has been in manu- facturing the giant electrical machines that harness streams which once were idle but now furnish elec- tricity for power, light and heat. Radio, the electric locomotive and the electric ship will have shortened his distances. Electric motors will have taken upon their shoulders life’s burdensome tasks. A different world it’s going to be— and a better one! GENERAL ELECTRIC AS a gift, OVALETTE is ideal. Every woman will appreciate one of these beau- tiful double compacts. In lustrous gunmetal, in the two-inch size, $1.25; in the larger size, $1.50. With our own beautiful orange border, $1.50 and $1.75. Also hand- painted in gorgeous designs. Every one packed in black and gold bag and box. Sold at the better stores, or direct from us. ORANGOL reable, permanent The chang lipstick ..$1.00 Ask your dealer io show you the wonderful AKLAR Christmas Sets. ADOLPH KLAR Since 1909 5 East 19th St., New York | the Th the c poe Rang opening mi oe it fit holds any kind of bob \ out 1 ing. Regular shade, r5c or 2 for 25c. OtNog, un regular =. each. Grey and wi bobbate e best net for bobbed hz forehead. Specia **Hold-Tight" Hair Nets have been sold for years at the best stores everywhere. Or direct from us. ADOLPH KLAR 5 East 19th Street, New York City

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2 cA “PORTFOLIO OF “PORTRAITS oe 1° The Child 2° The Débutante 3 ° The Bride ° The Mother 5° The Man 6 * The Family Group The Man AVE men as much vanity as women? It is an amusing question which every man will answer negatively and almost every woman affirmatively. As a matter of fact, in our long experience we have found that a man certainly does not want a “flattering” photograph nor one with the least suggestion of artificiality. Two qualities he does require—the qualities of dignity and strength. These are qualities which we strive for in every man’s photo- graph we take—and we have taken hun- dreds. May we not be of service to you? A photograph is an ideal Christmas present. Make your appointment early. Send for the Complete Portfolio If you are interested we shall be glad to send you the Campbell Studios portfolio with reproductions of six photographs (CAMPBELL Stuptos “Photographs You’ll Always Treasure” 580 FIFTH AVENUE - NEW YORK HARPER’S BAZAR “Tomorrow cheats us all. Why dost thou stay And leave undone What should be done today?” —HuGuHeEs ‘hen flies on magic wings and Christmas fast approaches. Do not disappoint your loved ones with hastily selected gifts which will be duplicated by a host of similar gifts. In the Schmidt Collection are beautiful things, rarely duplicated. Hereyou receive the assistance of connoisseurs who have searched far and wide for the unique gifts on display. For Fifty-five Years Importers of old and modern silver, Sheffield plate, old and modern glass, garnitures and fine porcelains. Ga, - CW as of 7 Qs @ oN A.Scumipt & Son 8 East 48th Street, New York Los Angeles Boston Washington, D. C. 2320 W. Tth St. 567 Boylston St. 1211 Connecticut Ave., N.W, MAGNOLIA MNES NEWPORT PASADENA Wa Vevavayvaya i 00206 C Harper’s Bazar invites you to Journey South ( UITE a bit before the great rush of the crowd south, Harper’s 4 Bazar in the very next issue will merrily embark for Florida and points west. The very smartest costumes that will be worn in the very smartest Southern resorts will appear in this January number of Harper’s Bazar. And besides, the new W. J. Locke novel will be continued; there will be another E. Phillips Oppenheim story; there will be a reflection of New York fashions at the height of the season and the clothes that Paris has created for the Riviera. So, you see, Harper’s Bazar is really inviting you to a thoroughly en- joyable journey in its On Sale December ol st January Number Harpers Basar 2/- IN LONDON 50¢ 6fr IN PARIS for

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TAR 1°? DECEMBER 1924 45 —— | lhe SMARTEST GIFT o YOU CAN GIVE.,....0+« at a Modest Price A SUBSCRIPTION TO ALARPER'S BAZAR YEAR’S subscription to Harper’s Bazar costs $4.00. And if you want to splurge a bit on a gift and still keep it most inexpensive, you may take advantage of the special offer— a two years’ subscription for $6.00. special for it means that the single- opy 1) ) (This 1 really / price of Harper's Bazar of 50c is cut exactly in half.) FTER ALL, what gift really as smart in every way as Harper’s Bazar could you give for either sum? There’s a coupon attached which we’ve made sufficiently accommodating to hold a number of names. And to each of the friends to whom you give this very nice gift we'll send, so it will reach her just before Christmas, a very zippy little greeting card. It is reproduced above but only in black and white. We’ve made it of the best paper we could find—an imported, handmade, deckle-edged card; and your name will be written on it very clearly and proudly on the line between the two snappy little Christmas trees. And so we repeat—‘The smartest gift vou can give at a modest price.”” So why not solve, not one, but several of your Christmas problems in this simple way?—by making use of the attached coupon. S. Here is rather a sly suggestion: Why not Harper's Bazar as that gift to yourself this Christmas? f 6° 2 This is the COUPON which may solve several of your most vexatious Christmas problems. Harper’s Bazar 119 West goth Street New York City Please send Harper’s Bazar and yous Christmas greeting card to the names listed below. I en- close check or money order for __ to cover these subscriptions. Or, if you prefer, **charge” this and pay for it later on in January when bill will be rendered. (Add $1.00 for extra postage for each Canadian subscription; $2.00 for foreign.) Your Name Your Street & Number Your City & State Those to Whom You Wish Harper’s Bazar Sent Name Street & Number City & State > 1 two years for $6.00 ! -] one year for $4.00 t t Check which is to be sent 1 Name Street & Number City & State 0 two years for $6.00 0 one year for $4.00 Check which is to be sent Name Street & Number i 1 ! | \ 1 ! ! ! ! ! : City & State ! ; 0 two years for $6.00 : O one year for $4.00 ‘ Check which is to be sent Name Street & Number City & State (1) two years for $6.00 © one year for $4.00 Check which is to be sent 4 B12-21

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Hand Loom. Built

ee

From over a thousand letters praising Biltmore Handwoven Homespun, the fine handwoven woolen cloth we have been making for women’s suits and one-piece dresses for over 20 years. Clinton, Iowa, Oct. 1, 1924 For the third season I am wearing a blue suit and it still looks new. Does your homespun ever wear out? Mrs. C. H. C. Baltimore, Md., Oct. 3, 1924 Five years ago I bought some of your homespun, and I am delighted to say it is still <‘wearing.”” As I desire another suit, will you be good enough to mail me a book of your samples? H. C. H. Orlando, Fla., Oct. 3, 1924 Your selection was probably better than mine would have been. The goods are excellent, your courtesy admirable, and your trust and confidence unprecedented in most commercial establishments. Chicago, Ill., Sept. 10, 1924 Enclosed find check for $31.97. Many thanks for your fine service and wonderful material. Mrs. M. W. M. Chicago, Ill., Sept. 25, 1924 About four years ago I purchased enough of your “Autumn Bronze” material for a similar outfit, and it wore so well that I finally had to give it away because everyone got tired of seeing it on me. I cannot remember just how many yards of cloth I had to have, so will ask you to give me your judgment. Wm. H. A. Madrid, Iowa, November 27, 1923 My overcoat which I had tailored from Home- spun last autumn is the finest in this city. Thanking you for your kindness in sending samples, I am Yours truly, R.C, New Albany, Ind., Oct. 4, 1924 I have had three suits of your cloth during the past two of three years, and they have given com- plete satisfaction and are greatly admired. Please send samples for another suit. S. T. M.

REG. VU. GS. PAT. OFF. Baltimore, Md., Sept. 27, 1924 Have been wearing your suitings now for sev- eral years to the exclusion of all other makes, and I want something that will make up into an attrac- tive suit for fall and winter wear. E. H. B. Leesburg, Fla., Sept. 6, 1924 Two years ago I bought cloth for a suit from you which has given me excellent service and it has been a pleasure to wear it. It is still practically as good as new after two years hard service. Please send me samples by first mail. 5% Burlington, Vermont Your homespuns are as lovely as any of the English ones, in quality, and I think keep their shape much better than the Irish ones. B. E. W., R.N. Riverside, Conn., August 30, 1924 I have a gray suit now which I purchased from you in the early spring of 1923 and which is still quite serviceable after about eighteen months of hard wear on the road. K. B. S. New York City, Sept. 3, 1924 Kindly send me samples of your homespun in dark colors, preferably blue, suitable for a winter suit of good class. I have enjoyed and still enjoy a number of suits made from your homespun, which have been in almost constant use for a long time with no sign of wear.

Mukwonago, Wis., July 24, 1924 My two daughters who purchased last winter are much satisfied with their outfits. They ate as good as new, Mrs. A. F.C. Orlando, Fla., Sept. 19, 1924 Permit me to say that I am extremely well pleased with the suits I have had made of Biltmore Home- spun; the material wears excellently, the patterns are individual, and the cost is well below that of the imported goods, which only is to be compared with it. Nothing made in this country is as good. New York City, Aug. 19, 1924 The three suits made up very well indeed, the only trouble about them 1s they last so long. I have suits I purchased in 1918 that really look as good as when they first came home, though I have worn them hard. E. H.C, Washington, Mo., Sept. 30, 1924 I have used so much of your cloth with such good results that I am somewhat of an enthusiast — want my friends to have it. A. R. Chicago, Ill., Oct. 2, 1924 Have worn some of your cloth and find nothing like it, and have been where it was impossible to obtain it. W.A.L., M.D Grove Park Inn of White Oak by hand in our own shop

Atlanta, Ca., Sept. 10, 1924 I have had very excellent service from the mate- tials which I purchased when visting Crove Park Inn, and suit lengths which were subsequently or- dered by parcel post, and I find myself so well im- pressed with the exclusiveness and excellent wear- ing qualities of your homespun that it is entirely probable that I shall discard all other suiting mate- rial in the near future for those of your manu- facture. Kindly keep my name on yout active customers’ list and submit me from time to time any new ma- terials which may be designed. P. H. C, Rochester, N. Y., August 10, 1924 The suit I purchased last year was supremely satisfactory. J. A. B. Henderson, N. C., Jan. 21, 1924 Herewith my check covering balance on bill attached. The piece of suiting surpasses the sample and the finish exceeds that of any homespun I have seen in Scotland and Ireland. R.

Biltmore Homespuns are not rough and shaggy —they are rugged and strong, but are as beautiful and refined as only hand work can make them. They are made in every color and shade—every color is absolutely guaranteed and any piece of Biltmore Homespun is returnable if not damaged of cut. There are light weaves for summer, “‘Regu- lar’ weaves for fall and winter, and overcoat weaves, The cloth is woven entirely by hand. We have been doing it the same way for twenty years and have never woven a yard of cloth except on looms we have built by hand in our own wood shops. The weaving is all done by native men. We weave three weights: “Regular,” which is a very substantial, closely woven cloth, quite hard twist, and weighs about 714 to 8 ounces to the yard, 28 to 30 inches wide. “Light Weight” is made of precisely the same yarn, but has 300 less threads to the same width and weighs about 6 ounces to the yard. It simply is woven mofe loosely and is an ideal weight for ladies’ suits. “Overcoat” is made by drawing three threads together and making practically a triple thread. The overcoat cloth is of a wonderful texture and weighs about 14 ounces to the yard. All Biltmore Homespuns are precisely the same on either side. We have seen men’s suits that had been worn two and three years, then turned inside out and made over. $3.50 per yard $3.25 per yard $4.50 per yard Seven to eight yards are required for a lady’s suit. Samples costing us 10c each will be sent on re- quest. Please do not put us to this expense unless you afe seriously considering our homespun. Regular weights Light weights Overcoat weights Biltmore Industries Asheville, N. C.

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Springtime, youth’s lilting laughter, the tin- gling blossoming joy of life’s sunlit morning! Skirl of pipes beyond a high green hill— —ow answering across gleaming blue oat The redolence of May’s choicest flowers — A veritable bouquet of Spring herself — The flattering fragrance of Sweet-and- Twenty — FLORAMYE is the sweetness of the sunshine soul—the scent-harmony of the blithe, cheery spirit with a bit 0’ joy- ous banter on her lips. Be she blessed with merry eyes of blue, or be they bonnie and brown, if a light song is in the heart of her and in her wonder- ing glance hides a seeking for elves and pixies and wee folk in flowering thickets, then FLORAMYE is her very own: | TPIVGER Paris France (FYondée En1774) : ) ' | Shree Genturies dr fumes f drsonalit y Be auty Secrets and The Gfouse of PIVER, ‘Paris —oldest, largest C2 d d and most distinguished Parfumerie of France— have just published a charmingly illustrated and O U : © S © U x 7 authoritative booklet entitled “Three Centuries of Beauty Secrets.” It is a most complete and Gi ‘be comprehensive guide to modern beauty in the Me your favorite Gap personalized uses of Parfums, Poudres, Rouges, Sachets,and other Toiletries. This booklet, which we oS eee ae LT. PIVER. INC. 118 East: 16th. St .NEWYORK City: ‘Paris, will be sent you free upon request. CHAS BAEZ, Selling Agent forU.S.

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for DECEMBER 1924 For the Best of Christmas Gifts— Eee eae

HIS Christmas give all your friends “Ole Missus” Fruit Cake—The Gift of Perfect Taste —thoughtfully chosen by you but without the usual shopping bother. Made in Dixie, by south- ern cooks, from Lucy Thompson’s of citron from recipe, Spain, cherries from France, pineapple from Hawaii, nuts from Italy, and many other good things, it comes to you (or to whomever you wish) rich and pure in its handsome metal container. Let us lift the Christmas gift bur- den from your shoulders. Send us a list of your friends, enclose 2.50 for each two pound cake and $6.00 for each five pound cake,and we'll dothe rest. Prices include carrving charges. NATCHEZ BAKING COMPANY Department E Natchez, Mississippi

| yw Wi, fg : They practice what they preach!

MISS CLARA OGILVIE The seven Ogilvie Sisters all prac- tice their Common Sense Methods of hair care and their own hair is their best advertisement. They have proved that different scalps need different tonics. Check your condition and send for the free booklet. Beautiful Hair by Com- mon Sense Methods. Baltimore Newark Paterson, N. J. Hochschild, Kolm L. Bamberger &Co. Meyer Bros Co Prcchcrne d Ss c Pe rnin ng orwich, onn. hiladelphia Oatie Filene's Reid & Hughes Gimbel Bros. ae ae, 0. Bridge Hou u oe ig Goods C. The D. M.Read Co. Brooklyn Abraham & Straus Frederick Loeser Buffalo Adam, Meldrum & Anderson Cleveland Halle Bros. Hartford Q Dia Siatin

a ste Scalp and Henna Specialists

308 Boylston St. Bosto 23 ms aed = Paix

MISS GEORGINA OGILVIE Have You Oily Hair? Dry Hair? Falling Hair? Dandruff? At all leading New York department store. and also in the following cities: Pittsburgh ortiand, San Francisco Seattle Tope’ Thee asks Bros.Co. es Washington, D. c. 505 FIFTH AVENUE (Dept. 22) NEW YORK CITY 1108 Connecticut Ave. Washington OOd0 Joseph oo Co Meier & ick CIty oF Paris Treatments by Ogilvie Sisters’ methods are given in the City of Paris Salon. Frederick & Nelson cee — he Woodward & Lothrop

J. Fox & Co M

until a change in weather brings rheumatic twinges. Or you are limber ness follows some hard or pro- longed exercise or exertion. Apply Absorbine, Jr. promptly You are young until stiff- tonight — or whenever such pain or discomfort next threatens. Feel it ease the pain in those muscles and joints at once. And in the morning, you are as fit as ever. Absorbine, Jr. breaks up congestion by quickening the circulation. Keep it at hand in the medicine cabinet——a first aid in emer- gencies. At all druggists’, $1 or postpaid c., postpaid 25, Liberal trial bottle, 10 W. F. YOUNG, Inc. 335 Lyman St. Springfield, Mass.

ae Othe r timely uses Cuts Rheumatic aches Strains and pains Bruises Children’s hurts

Nea NE SOSAIUIIN a DL ESOSSAWUIHH

Soe A new transformation | carrying all the subtle grace | | of Parme’s art. Observe the (/\ \) life-like parting. Unquestion- ably Parisian, it reflects the | influence of the salon Parme {+ | established in Paris last | month. assured | from the | Now his patrons are the latest creations Center of Fashion. As the originator of the mod- ern Transformation, Parme || knows the secret of fitting to | your personality, of moulding | } tothe style of your features. $ ) Transformations are his | genius —and each is a chef- d’oeuvre. Consult him. SeuisTarm | Booklet on Request | | | 18 West 57th Street |

New York City heed PAW SOS uiez = S< | S Wil OS*U UVES = 8

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PORCELAINS avd POTTERY EASILY SELECTED FOR GIFTS TRATED BOOKS FULPER POTTERY Jersey

Se ee ee ae ae a ee ee ed Most Charming, Least Costly of Gifts—a Beauty Box! Dainty and pretty enough to make an attractive show- ing, useful enough to be appreciated long after the first unwrapping! You will want: i i i A Ae A AT A a A i Ae i i ie i i i i nd Darsy Week-End Box—An inviting white box, 6! 2x3)2 inches, con- taining small sizes of Darsy Sachets de Beauté, Creme de Beauté, Poudre de Beauté, L otion Rosée, Savon Mignon, Rosée de Beauté, Elixir Dentifrice. Specify tint of powder. $2.50. Darsy Dressing Table Box—A_ be-ribboned pink box, 6'x3% inches, containing regular sizes of Darsy Poudre Idéale (face powder) and Poudre de Toilette (talcum), and small sizes of Savon du Dr. Dys, Créme de Beauté and Rosée de Beauté. $4. To order by mail, send check or money order. Prompt deliveries Visit the Salon for French Facial Treatments Write for booklet and questionnaire V. DARSY 17 West 49th Street New York 54 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, Paris

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Darsy preparations may be obtained by mail or atthese shops: York —Stern Bros.; Boston— Caroline T. Peabody, 551 Boylston Street; San Francisco— White House, also the Darsy Salon de Jeunesse, 358 Sutter Street. The latter shop is authorised to give complete Darsy treatments. ew A444 4444 44 DA SE Ce ee ee ee a ee ee ee ee ere ee aoa! | | | | |

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A PSST ae — OFS Res eg HARPER’S BAZAR THE NEW MARMON FIVE-PASSENGER SEDAN DE LUXE ‘New policies, new Strength + 7 and a new plan have produced a New Marmon. The aspect of our boulevards will be freshened by its grace of line. It will lend tone to the country clubs of America and to fash- ion’s fondest rendezvous. In every detail it reveals the hand of a great designer, close to the likes of people of exquisite and cultivated taste. In the fine, sweet-running mechanism of the New Marmon you will find the touch of time. Years of unfaltering concentra- tion on the Marmon chassis and the six-cylinder Marmon en- gine have given the New Marmon its great, inherent goodness. NORDYKE &8 MARMON COMPANY 4“ Among all the axioms there is none truer than, “Practice makes perfect.” Certainly there is no substitute for experience. And herein lies the secret of Marmon’s sure- footed mastery of the road and of Marmon’s confidence-inspiring dependability. Truly this is the greatest car that ever bore the proud name of Marmon, and, to those who have known Marmon, no pos- sible statement of its excellence could be so strong. You are sure to say of the New Marmon what others have instinctively said: “It’s a Great Automobile!” Prices of the New Marmon (Series 74) +» ENCLOSED CARS, $3295 and up - OPEN CARS, $3165 + All prices f. 0.b. Indianapolis Government tax extra. Established 1851 ~ INDIANAPOLIS, IND. TH PER

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eS ' » THE MOST EXQUISITE PRODUCTIONS — sreegenemnvaeernanns IN FRENCH TOILET REQUISITES H * La j ; 4 7 ' t OEE AIR eee ie FOR 100 YEARS { 4 4 ' : i “ ] F > , (Above) Four of the exquisite Veolay articles de toilette—Niobe Talc, Pourpre d’' Automne Perfume, Ambre Royal Powder, and SiftAR, , a dainty new sifter-box affording a practical way of carrying loose Ambre Royal Powder, PERFUMES TOILET WATERS POWDERS Boudoir of as /V é ; G C ‘ j oe SA L y james Zayl Or Ler Ty That Veolay perfumes and toilet requisites, those veritable favorites of the chic Parisienne, are equally favored by fashionable Americans, is attested by their presence on the dressing-tables of Mrs. Terry and other socially-prominent women. VEOLAY (Maison Violet—PARIS) TALCUMS ROUGE CREAMS SOAPS BATH SALTS (Above) Entrance to the establish- ment of Veolay (Maison Violet), at 29 Boulevard des Italiens, Paris, France. Frank M. Prindle & Co., 267 Fifth Avenue, New York, are their sole agents for the United States, A postal request will fetch a delightful Veolay brochure illustrating boudoirs of socially-prominent patronesses of Veolay, and giving prices and descriptions of Veolay requisites. SPECIALTIES

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Victrola N; D Walnut, $235; el 1e%SH275 Other styles $25 to $1500 A ee , * 49% a The finest gift of all! The gift that keeps on giving—that keeps on giving some- thing new. For no matter what kind of music you may want or when you may want it, a Victrola Instrument and Victor Records give you every kind of music—better. The most brilliant opera house in the world can offer no such great company of artists as that shown above, but every Victor Record made is made by an artist of distinction in some particular field. From the great music of the world to the * most alluring dance or the trickiest bit of jazz—the names that | everybody knows, the names that really count—are found on Victor Records. Let the nearest dealer show you. Victrolas are listed from $25 up—and any one of them will play any of the nine thousand Victor Records. There is but one Victrola and that is made by the Victor Company—look for these Victor trade marks Victrola BCG US Pat OFF Victor Talking Machine Company, Camden,N. J. “HIS MASTERS VOICE” Victor Talking Machine Co. of Canada, Ltd., Montreal THE SCHWBEINLER PRESS, NEW YORK

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