Harper's Bazaar 1921-02: Vol 56 Iss 2

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FEBRUARY 1921 PRICE 50 CENTS

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(QRammennn a een a ETN TS RB hc a da me { ! | “You just k h hem” ou just Rnow she wears them M°CALLUM HOSIERY COMPANY, Northampton. Mass.

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TIFFANY & CO. JEWELRY AND SILVERWARE NOTED FOR DESIGN QUALITY AND WORKMANSHIP MAIL INQUIRIES GIVEN PROMPT. ATTENTION FIFTH AVENUE & 3/2 STREET NEw YORK

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HARPER’S BAZAR The beautiful and popular Mme. Raymond’ by Mme. LeBrur To the right—In her gown ot Mallinson’s Pussy Willow, Edith Roberts, the Universal Star, gives an. interesting and picturesque portrayal of Mme. Raymond the Parisian comedienne, one of the many famous French womer \") Cootammn Ot) oi mblemel-ibi-dotdciemlamer-thele ered MPmeIINSON Silk MASTERPIECES ROSHANARA CREPE CHINCHILLA SATIN silks unsurpassed for either dresses or suits—endorsed and accepted by America's Liuxurtous Cavy rep foremost eators as the paramount fabrics destined to be permanent!v popular for expressing Fashion's highest tdeals PUSSY WILLOW INDESTRUCTIBLE VOILE PUSSY WILLOW SATIN PUSSY WILLOW CREPE METEOR SATIN SONATA 1arK name 4 By the vard at the best Silk Departments—in wearing appare/ at the better Garment Departments’ and Class Shops {ALLINSON& Silks de Luxe The National Silks ot International Fame NEW YORK at 119 W. 40th St., New York, by International Magazine Com- Harper’s Bazar any. ly su Entered as second class matter May 4th, 1901, at the post office at by 192 I 3rd, 1879; entered on July — at the post office at Atlanta, el ary February, Cal., San Francisco, Cal.

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for 1921 FEBRUARY Franklin Simon s Co. Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Sts., New York Advance Sprin?, Fashions Herald the Vogue of TAFFETA SILK IN MISSES’ FROCKS Since Spring, fashions move in smart circles, these frocks display circular tunics or ruffles and edge them with semi-circular scallops. 121—MISSES’ TAFFETA SILK FROCK with pleated cocardes and ruffles of the self material; filet lace edging, at neck and sleeves. 14 to 20 years. , » 58.00 123—MISSES’ TAFFETA SILK FROCK with self pleatin3, edgin3, the scalloped flounces. Embroi- dered batiste collar and cuffs. 14 to 20 years. ‘ 49.50 125—MISSES’ TAFFETA SILK FROCK with scalloped circular tunic, velvet flowers appliqued on sash ends; lace collar and cuffs. 14 to 20 years. ‘ » 39.50 Each of these models may be had in Black, Brown, Navy Blue or Pearl Gray , MISSES’ GOWN SHOP—Second Floor HATS illustrated, from our French Millinery Shop. Prices upon application.

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he { { }} | / } Dresses with such an An Echo Maid Frock will charm any girl, be she six or sixteen. For these dresses have such a smart, un- common air! Clever designers create Echo Maid Frocks specially for girls. Thus they do not merely ape women’s fashions. There is a _ fascinating touch of youth in every line. The critical buyer will observe that each little detail (particularly where it “doesn’t show”) is finished with that painstaking care which was the oY + 4 } a 4 NS 7 ’ { } | | } £ air about them! pride of the old-fashioned seamstress. That counts very much with a girl, too. There is a rich choice of styles in pretty and practical fabrics in the Spring showing the better stores have ready now. The prices are not a bit extravagant. Doubtless your favorite shop will want to show you Echo Maid Frocks, and Middies, and Regulatien Dresses. You have only to ask for them—by name. The pictures merely suggest a few of the many Echo Maid Frocks, distinguished by this label: ST.LOUIS ~ NEWYORK ~ EISEMAN BROS MAKERS Guaranteed by HARPER’S BAZAR 706. 709. 239. 210. 244. . Smart middy blouse with handsome embroidered emblems and well-fitting skirt. For girls 6 to 16. Admirable for school-wear, this one- piece Regulation Sailor Dress for girls 6 to 14. Equally trig and trim is this natty Sailor Dress fashioned for girls of 12 to 16. A graceful frock of solid-color organ- die, prettily smocked at the watst- line. For girls 6 to 12. For wee maids of 6, 8 and 10, this novel pantalette dress of imported gingham with collar and vestee of sheer organdie, prettily hand-em- broidered. Little lasses of 6, 8 and 10 will dote on this dress of fine check imported gingham, fancily stitched, with pique- trimmed bloomers to match. The posed model wears a clever Eton design in taffeta, button-trimmed, with a sash girdle of two-tone checked ribbon. For the miss of 14 to 16 DESIGNED AND MADE BY EISEMAN BROS. MFG. CO.. OF ST. LOUIS AND NEW YORK

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for FEBRUARY 1921 5 Fifth Avenue Stewart $. do. at 37th Street Correct Apparel forWomen& Misses NEW YORK

From the Parisian Garden of Fashion NEW SPRINGTIME DRESSES

<7 ot G/ fr

2023—Y outhful dress of Silk Canton Crepe with soft folds at side, novel self girdle and sash, and contrasting colored inserts at bodice, collar and sleeves. Rich gold thread embroidery enhances the com- pelling attractiveness. Colors: Navy, Dark Brown, Grey or Black. Sizes 14 to 20. 79.50

2029

Mail Orders Given

Prompt Attention 2027—This delightful dress of lustrous Taffeta displays elaborate ferns on skirt and bodice, handsomely embroidered in contrasting Silk. Large bow and sash at back and quaint, puffed sleeves lend enchantment. Colors: Dark Brown, Navy, Grey or Black. Sizes 14 to 20. 39.50

2025 — Handsome dress of finest quality Georgette Crepe. novelly embroidered with letters of the alphabet in con- ; trasting colored wool outlined with harmonizing , beads, contrasting wide Moire Ribbon girdle / 4 with large bow and sash at side gives an interest- ng touch. Colors: French Blue, Copper, Navy,

2029—A new, beautiful fabric—Piquetine—a finely woven wool fabric of rare beauty—fashions this smart dress with apron panel in front and bloused back. An attractive beauty is created by the gold thread and contrasting silk embroidered motifs together with the } Dark Brown, Grey or Black. Sizes 14 to 20—34 self bows and streamers at side. Obtainable in Navy to 44, 98.50 only. Sizes 14 to 20—34 to 44. 89.50 Send for our new Spring Fashion Book

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6 HARPER’S BAZAR You'll never believe until you’ve tried how much trouble you can save by— sien simply subscribing to Harper’s Bazar in advance AKE, for example, this February issue you hold in your hands. Will your skirts be spiral or “streamered’’—bewitch- ingly puffed or severely slim—should they be draped or not? Your February Bazar will tell you how famous French houses and great designers of America fashion them dur- ing 1921. SLEEVES—too, you of course want to know about—for sleeves are going to be so important during 1921. There are going to be all sorts of innovations—sleeves that dangle — sleeves that fit— sleeves that do both —and the newest fancy of all—the peasant sleeve. Some, you see portrayed in this issue of your Bazar—others in issues to follow. Then you must know your collar—should it be high—as high as this year or higher? Higher says Paris—tho it doesn’t seem possible until one glimpses all the delightful new methods Paris has found. Evening Gowns, tho! Oh, such gorgeous, shimmery mate- rials Paris twists up with her deft fingers into loveliness for evening wear. And altho it doesn’t seem possible, she has found many hundreds of ways to drape the same slim silhouette which will, of course, hold its own. And the accessories!! Of course, you must know them all for accessories are by far the most important part of the costume these days and so during 1921 Harper’s Bazar is going to devote an entire department each month to giving you just the suggestions you have been waiting for—the one jewel to wear with your black crépe de chine—the girdle to simply make your severe little serge. Before you pass on to other interesting pages, or become en- grossed in social duties, step over to your desk, and by signing your name to this coupon, make sure of your Harper’s Bazar throughout 1921. Short Stories, Fiction, Plays, Special Articles and Topics of the Day by such notable contributors as: _-” HARPER'S W. L. George, Arnold Bennett, G. Bernard Shaw, - ae BAZAR, Lord Dunsany, Rachel Crothers, Leonard Merrick, = 119 W. 40th St., Mildred Crain, Holworthy Hall, George Agnew Yi New York City. Chamberlain and many others. Ps Enter my subscription ae for 1 year. Check for $6 an is enclosed (or check may be ae sent later on receipt of bill if Haven’t you sometimes been disappointed and annoyed by your in- Pa you prefer). ability to find Harper’s Bazar at your newsstand ? Thousands are each aj LES ae oS ae month. To make sure of everything in every issue—fashions, fiction, Pa porn i atre, art, music, and the stage—send the coupon today. ra rR et ee. | naam the ; , . 7” P y -* Canadian postage is free—Please add two dollars s -”” wpooey for any other address outside the United States. ¢

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for FEBRUARY 1921 7 PRING CLOTFIES FOR SMALL SPORTSMEN C—Little Humpty Dumpty sits high on the wall where all the world may see him in his fine, new suit. It comes in plain colored Bate’s suiting—blue, green, brown, gray or blue pin checks with white vestee. and collar. 3 to 8 years. $2.97 ———

A—For Summer days or wear in Southern B—Cool cloth, a new material with the climes, this white serge Norfolk suit is quite sturdy appearance of wool and the light ideal. It has a yoke, patch pockets, and weight so essential to summer wear makes side, front pleats. It is lined throughout a suit with a yoke, box pleats, patch pockets with white Alpaca. Sizes 8 to 16 years. and belt all around. It is well made, shapely $19.74 and can be laundered easily. Sizes 8 to 16 years $9.74 = e& @ 3S <p ao

D—What small American would not be proud to wear this suit adapted from a little Frenchman’s model? It is of Bate’s suiting with vestee, flaring collar and cuffs of contrasting color. It comes in blue with green collar, brown with gray collar or blue, pin checks. Also of white, En- glish repp with blue collar. $2.97 E—For an active youngster—a Russian suit of sturdy Palmer Jr. cloth with col lar and cuffs of contrasting color. It is double breasted, belted and has a black tie. In navy with tan collar, brown with green, white with blue, tan with cardinal. $3.74

F—The master of such a puppy must surely be dressed to befit his superior station. He wears a front-laced middy suit with wide Bishop collar. It is made of “invincible”’ suiting, blue, green, rus- set, gray and white English repp with blue trimming. 3.7 G—Important to any small boy’s Spring’ wardrobe is a warm coat. This cae of fine quality, heavy French serge is double breasted and has brass buttons, detachable collar of Palmer linen, inverted pleat back, belt all around, and flap pockets. Sizes 2% to 8 years. $10.74

— ca Macy & Co, GA * a * Herald Square Pre. New York

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g HARPER’S BA Oe ee ee ee 4 DEF, Se ee Oita ~ Nag Py / Ht ge — : 5 am t tii ‘k 1 { ; A Die ie ie oie oe Ve vie ae on - se: Teas NILEUTR dhe (Las HANDMADE IBLOUSIES A leading style note for summer days is the use of the exquisite white blouse in which EVERY STITCH IS MADE BY HAND. To be sure that you are buying a GENUINE HAND- ¢\ MADE BLOUSE ask for and insist upon this label. Write for new style booklet WEIL& WEIL fa. pEuRaLs—.) ‘\ Priced as lov 36 East 31st Street |" Handmade Blouse up at the better shops. ire ree ree Je Toe ale Ppp eee para ae rae a ee ee sie sie Wl

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FEBRUARY 1921 [shill HE PERFECT / BLACK APPAREL Dresses 8 Blouses The Art of Blending Color with Black N the latest conceptions for dinner I and afternoon wear, Blackshire cre- ations achieve a new pinnacle of art that makes still more secure the posi- tion of Blackshire as the world’s leading specialists in fashionable black, and black for conventional wear. Color is appropriately combined, with a fine feeling of restraint, wherever it can lend to dusky-hued fabrics—sheer or silken, as the occasion demands—an effective note of contrast or harmony. This deft use of color with black strik- ingly emphasizes the genius of Black- shire specialists in the art of blending / black and color with true understand- \, ™ wh ing and charming effect. % \ Send for the Blackshire Style Story “THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR BLACKSHIRE” Le THE HOUSE OF BEACK 112-114-116 Madison Avena,

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arts & crafts AU a BRIDGE Private Lessons and Classes. Cc mariotte C onlin, 206 West 9 + 95th St., N. Y. beauty & health AND EYELASH PERFECTOR. $1.20 per box. Single application lasts 2 to 4 weeks, giving beauciful shape and tint Treatment 50c, at Spiro's, 26 W. 36ch St., New York MME. MAYS Face Specialist 50 West 49th Street Bryant 9426. New York City. MME. MAYS, Face Specialist. Est. 30 years. Per- manently removes wrinkles, freckles, scars, etc Muscles tightened; endorsed by known physicians, One address: 50 W. 49th St., N. Bryant 9426. MME. JULIAN’ S SPECIFIC has stood the test f Information omen free to all

By Mail. 6556 Riv er.

EYEBROW

Mme. Julian, 14 West 47th 5St., New York City. FLETCHER’'S BLEACH PASTE restores youthful complexion. Protects, whitens and beautifies Removes tan and freckles Postpaid, $1.25 Tom Fletcher Co., Los Angeles : THE NECK BEAUTIFUL. Your neck looks old not your face. Don't wear a blac k velvet band, use Harveys Neck Whitener, “Whitens and Tightens."* $2 a jar. Harveys, 873 5th Ave., N.Y.C PERFECT BLACKHEAD TREATMENT is the latest scientific victory of the Ferrol System. Re- moves blackheads and their causes. $3.00 post- paid. Ferrol, 200 West 72nd Street, New York JOHN POST'S BLACKHEAD LOTION eradi- cates blackheads by absorbing secretion in the

pores; contracts large pores; Clarifies skin. $1.25. ‘Tested for 20 yrs. 500 5th Ave., cor. 42nd St., N.Y. . DARSY—Salon de Jeunesse. Face and neck treatments of the great French specialist, Dr. Dys, with his preparations. Endorsed by roy — send for_book and questionnaire. 630 Sth Ave., N. Y.

NOT ONLY New York, but many other cities are represented here, with the names and addresses of their leading shops Read carefully ! “Mme. LILLIE’S Imported Stringent Lotion Guarantee improvement in two weeks or money refunded, $1.10. Reducing Cream, $3.00 per pound. Cleansing Cream, $1.00 p.p. 47 W. 42nd 5t., N.Y¥.C CLEAR SKIN HAIR REMOVER. In stick form, harmiess, easily applied; leaves skin soft, removes root; will not irritate; postpaid, $1

Vanite Shop, 44 W. 39th St., New York City JOHN POST SKIN FOOD. A great tissue builder; perfect massage cream. It develops, stim- ulates new vitality to the muscles. $1.50. Booklet. John Post, Inc., 500 Fifth Ave., New York City. REMOVES WRINKLES ALMOST INSTANTLY and makes flabby skin firm. Try a jar of Quinian Face Pack and be convinced. Price $2.50. Bkit. Free Kathleen Mary Quinlan, 665-A Fifth Ave., N. Y SPIRO'S Famous Specific for eliminating desirabie hair growth. Application simple.

un- ie e

$1.60. Treatments at our pariors. Spiro's, 34 V 46th St., and 26 W. 38th St., New Yok. JOHN H. WOODBURY, Safe, Sane Method Shapes features and removes blemishes perfectly Not at all expensive. Wonderfully pleasing Only at 1648 Broadway, cor. 5ist Street, ¥. ONE BARY-GONE BATH CARTRIDGE in your daily bath will positively reduce fat. It is clean, fragrant and harmless. No drugs, diet or exercise. WONDERFUL FOR THE SKIN. Box of 12 sent postpaid in ae Canes —h for $3.00 3 0., Dept 469 Central Park West New York City.

blouses, gowns & waists (Continued) SW HARPER’S BAZAR 5) _imnsas see cerrsan conan cavemen enteeesscaeo : yo | [Pere ‘ ; ic |

corset craft

entertainment

HE ART OF ALTERATION. and smartness thru slightest ry Err cialize in remodeling. Visit us or let call. Jeannetton, Ine., 122 E. 57th St., N. Y Piaza 4244 Original charm We spe- MME. Cue OR SALON i CORSET | . , rite for bkit on care of skin. Rose I ‘find: 8 Salon, . 48th St.,N.Y. for men; that's why women love his stories. You'll love ‘Kindred of — Dust." Get your copy today wherever books are sold, $2.00. COSMO LITAN BOOK C ORPORATION, 119 W. 40th St., N.Y.C.

GRAHAM BEAUTY SECRET. + > new astring- ent skin treatment for wiinkles, blackheads, coarse pores, and oily skin. Price $3. Mail orders filled Graham Beauty Shop, 25 W. Illinois St., Chicago. NOT ONLY New York, but many other cities a.e represented here, with the names and addresses of their leading shops. Read carefully!

EG YPTOL— Nature's greatest gift to Beauty Facial Packs. No drugs. Vanishes wrinkles and blemishes. Five dollars a jar ‘Francois, 328 South 15th St., Philadelphia, Pa

corsets dancing & instruction (Continued)

fashion sketches FASHION SKETCH SERVICE in place of ordi

| nary fashion books. For ladies’ tailors, dressmakers, milliners, imported and original designs: samples. Parisian ee o., 15 W. 38th S VALUE AND SERVIC you will find that buying from the many shops listed here is a pleasant surprise. for the children BABY FURNITURE—For the baby and child, chairs, etc., made of wood. he Better Frank M. Sawyer, 3512-14 Independence Ave., Kansas City, Mo. HELEN SPEER CO., Inc., 16 W. 57th St., N. Y. Newly designed p's EB furniture and toys tor the nursery, may be seen now. Our specialty: De- signing and furnishing nurseries. Catalogue. TOTS TOGGERIE, 55 W. 45th St. Tel. Bryant 2867. Outfitters to Children of all ages. No cata- logue. Coats and Hats made to order a specialty Charming Styles and Superior Workmanship. MARY AND VIRGINIA—Children’s clothes, de- signed and beautifully made for all occasions. Coats with hats to match on order only. 66 West 56th Street, N. Y. Telephone Circle 3235. NANA, Ltd. 11 West 56th Street, New York. Infants’ & Children’s Dresses made to individual order. MARY-DORO 48 West 52nd Street. We specialize in Children’s Hand-Made Hats. Coats and Frocks for all occasions. Unusual Out-of-Door Sets for the Winter. pg for N.Y.

gowns bought MME. NAFTAL pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used evening, street and dinner

costumes, furs, —— jewelry, silverware. 69 West 45th St., N. Tel. 670 Bryant. MME. FURMAN For Your Pays poy ond U sed or Discarded Cash Tel. Bryant 1376 MME. FURMAN = Everything Tel. Bryant 1376 MME. FURMAN Society Wi Ne og ae: Buys Your Discarded Gowns, Suits, Furs, Jewelry and Diamonds. el. Bryant 1376 10L West 47th St. 833 Sixth Avenue References 103 West 47th St. Tel. Bryant 1376 New York City

G. HEPBURN WILSON Modern Danse Studio 27 W. 57th St., N. Y. C. (formerly Thorley pide. ) For rates and appointment phone Plaza 8770 DUFF, 151 W. 46th St., N.Y. Tel. Bryant 8247. Highest Prices Paid For Discarded Wearing Apparel, Draperies, Rugs, Linens, Ete.

SOCIAL POISE—My unique method gives you ease and grace in body carriage. Modern and stage dancing. Personal instruction. Louis Vecchio, 140 W. 68th St. (Broadway). Columbus 4452. SELL TO MME. NAFTAL, 69 West 45th 5St., New York. Tel. Bryant 670. I will pay good value for your fine used evening, street and dinner frocks; also diamonds, jewelry and silverware.

discarded gowns NOT ONLY New York, but many other cities are represented here, with the names and addresses of their leading

shops. Read carefully! WE WANT DISCARDED APPAREL for our Second-Hand Department Store. h ; Positively highest prices paid. air Aaron’s, 808 Sixth Ave. Vanderbilt 4765. eee | nym et HAIR WAVING he b uipped and largest discarded furs pad An in the wor C. Nestle Co., 12 and 14 East 49th St., New York

YOUR SLIGHTLY USED FURS are worth a lot of money. Sell them to us. Aaron's Second-Hand Department Store, 808 Sixth Avenue. Phone, Vanderbilt 4765. CALL AT SCHAEFFER'S if you want expert personal attention for a permanent wave. Posi- tively no friz or kink. J. Schaeffer, 542 Fifth Ave. hone: Murray Hill 5772.

discarded jewelry PERMANENT HAIR WAVE. $1.00 a Curl. Spe- cialist in treating prematurely gray hair. Hair goods made up. $5.00 per ounce and up. Bookiet Chas. Frey, 11 E. 41st St. (at 5th Ave.), N. Y.

DIAMONDS, OLD JEWELRY, BRIC-A-BRAC and entire contents of houses bought. Write, call or telephone Aaron's, 808 Sixth Ave. Tel. V anderbiit 4765 CROWN OF GOLD SHAMPOO AND TONIC Prevents darkening; accentuates the red and gold- entints. $1.00 each a bottle. Not a dye or bleach. Original Toilet Prep. Co., 222-H Mad. Sq.Sta., N.Y.

LUCILLE (SAVOY) ASTRINGENT MASQUE eliminates and prevents wrinkles; guaranteed to make sagging muscles firm. Full directions. $5.00 a jar Astor Theatre Building, New York City. GOSSARD FRONT LACED CORSETS are mod- erately priced, $4 up. Retail only. Brassieres fitted. corsets to order. Every corset scientifically fitted by experienced corsetieres. Unusual service

blouses, gowns & waists

GOSSARD CORSETS—We carry over 50 models and are able to fit “difficult” —ee. Once fitted our customers Shop-by-Mail. op of service. Otmstead Corset Co., 179 M fadison Ave., at 34th St.

UNUSUAL, BUT NOT EXTREME, our frocks, gowns and suits combine style and workmanship. Artistic remodeling makes old gowns new. Von Kull Co., 11 West 35th Street, N. Y. C. MME. S. SCHWARTZ Custom- made corsets for the woman of fashion. 47th St. » New York City Telephone 1552 Murray Hill,

dramatic art NEOS-HENNE for grey and faded hair. Any shade from blonde to black. Applied in all up-to-date Beauty and Hair Dressing Parlors. Write for in- formation to Nees Co., 366 Fifth Ave., N. Y-

THEODORA URSULA IRVINE. Dramatic Art Diction. Endorsed by Edith Wynne Matthison. Stage training. Teacher of Alice Brady. Summer Courses. Studio, 603 Carnegie Hall, N Y. CRUDOL SHAMPOO, scientifically perfect. rinses completely from the hair, leaving fluffy and healthy. Crudol, Nature's Hair. Tonic, 30c&60c tube; Sham- poo, 35e tube. The Crudol Co.Inc.,1777 B'way,N.Y.

dress forms FOR RELIABLE INFORMATION Da oe to the School Bu sales, 3 Bazar, 119 West foth Street New York

MADAM HAMAD. Smart gowns for all occasions: MME. L. BROWN CORSETIERRE PNEU FORM —the Pneumatic Dress_ Form MANUEL MODERN TRANSFORM ATIONS

made to order. Exclusive designs. Prompt attention Formerly fitter for the Peetz Corset Co. Gowns fitted without personal try-on. Inflated | Have a sight-proof parting not obtainable else- to out of town orders. tag! ‘material optional. Re- Front and Back Laced Corsets and Brassieres in-fitted lining gives exact figure. Corsets. Fitted | where. Parisian Booklet on request. Manuel, v ig modeling. 179 W.93d St., N.Y. Phone River 1969. | 45 West 37th St.. New York. Phone 4786 Greeley | Linings. Garland, 16 W. 46th Street, N. Y. and Transformation Specialist, 29 E. 48th St., N.¥ THE MARY ANDERSON DRESS. All shades | LOUISE GREENWOOD, Specialist in Corsets. crepe-de-Chine or navy serge. Slips on over the head. Sizes 14-40. ‘paint for college girls. $67.50 Mary Anderson, 41 E ak St., Chicago, Illinois Made to order. Copied, Cleaned, Repaired. Latest models in stock. Rw sent. Bristol Bidg., 500 5th Avenue, N. , 4th Floor. Vanderbilt 845. employment agency

CARL Specialist in Permanent Hair Waving Formerly with W: a he ~ * Hotel 5 Columbus Circle, N. Y. Columbus 2410

PHOENICIA & VE tm sTULIO€ A. A. Badran, Prop., 5 W. 39th St.. N. Y. C. Hand-made batiste blows, trimmed with real filet, square or V-neck, rolling collar, $6.50 up. In Georgette, $8.00 up.

READ THESE ANNOUNCEMENTS carefully and you will find many helpful and inter- esting suggestions. They are classified under their respective headings for your convenience.

MISS BRINKLEY, 507 Fifth Ave., New York We open houses, clean and put in order or occupancy The office supplies competent household servants. PERMANENT HAIR WAVING. far Coloring « Henna Treatments by Specialists. Latest methods Transformations and Hair Goods of every descrip- tion. M. Schmidt, 2807 B’way. Academy 1500-2679.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 hair (Continued) jewelry bought (Continued) nabesiiiy apparel I GUARANTEE NO KINK& in my expert perma- FRANK C. HUTCHINSON BUYS DIAMONDS BERTHE MAY'S MATERNITY CORSET nent hair waving. Every client receives my per- | and other precious stones, also individual pieces Of | Belt and Brassiere. Exclusive and invisible enlarge- sonal attention. Richards Hair Shop, 665 Fifth | jewelry or Jewelry Estates to be settl Write or | ment feature. Dress as usual. Write for catalog Ave. at 53rd St., New York City. Plaza 8799. | send. 366 Fifth Ave. Phone Greeley 5489. No. 15. Berthe May, 10 E. 46th St., N. NEW ELECTRIC TREATMENT for ge Falling Hair or Dandruff cur case guaranteed as long as hair bulbs Pe, viability, Illust: ated bilet. Alois Merke, 28 W. 46th St. HENR Y—Permanent Hair Waving Specialist Gold Medal, London, 1906 Expert Personal Attention. No kink or friz guar- SHONGUT, 170 Broadway, cor. Maiden Lane, N. Y. Cortlandt 501. High-class Jewels of every description. Diamonds, Pearls, etc., purchased for cash. Individual pieces or estates. BERTHE MAY'S MATERNITY and other apparel. To order only. samples supplied. Catalogue No. Berthe May, 10 East 46th St., DRESSES Sketches and 0 New York shoes (Continued) SHORT VAMP SHOES. French and American models. Round or Pointed Toes, in all leathers, Best for high insteps. Send for Catalogue * H.’ J. Glassberg, 225 West 42nd Street, New York City. 220 specialty shops HIGHEST PRICES PAID for vid jewelry, dia- | monds, platinum, gold, silver, false teeth. return in 10 days if you're not satisfied. Smelting & Ref. Co., 239 Lennox Bidg., Cleveland, O. anieed. 25 West 46th St., N. Y. C. Bryant 2479. hotels HOTEL HARGRAVE, West ay St., bet. Broad- way and Columbus Ave., N.Y. 1 block to Central Park. Comfort, refinement & luxury combined with mod. rates. Send for bklt. Eugene Cable, Mgr. DIAMONDS Take — antage of the High Prices pete for precious stones (and jewelry) Rothkrug Bros., 542 Fifth Avenue, New York C ity ladies’ tailors & furs HOTEL ST. JAMES. Times 5q., off Broadway. 109 W. 45th St., 4 min. walk to 40 theatres and all principal shops. Much tavored by women traveling D. VELTRY, Milady’s Tailor. 10% reduction during month of Feb. Creator of exclusive Suits Coats and Dresses. Furs, new and remodeled. Mai orders invited. 425 Fifth Ave., New York City without escort. W. Johnson Quinn, Pres. house furnishings YOU ARE OR INTEND refurnishing your home. Mme. Naftal will purchase whatever furniture. rugs, draperies, etc., you wish to dispose of. Write J. LABES, 16 West 45th St., Ave. High grade Ladies’ Tailoring at ready- to-wear prices. Sport suits, Dresses and Skirts our specialty SAUER & SCHAEFER, FURRIERS. Furs to order, repaired and remodeled for particular per- sons wanting excellent workmanship. New York, near Fifth | millinery & feathers PARADISE, GOURA FANS and Ostrich Feathers reconstructed. Newest dress trimmings and _fancies from old feathers. Prompt mail service. . Methot, 38 West 34th Street, New York City. WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS. Beautiful, practical gift for every occasion. Made only to order. Illus. catalog H in cofois sent on request. Wilkinsop Quilt Co., Ligonier, Ind. shopping commissions patterns MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopping. Will shop with you or send anything on ap- proval. Services free. Send for Bulletin. 366 Fifth Avenue, New York City. PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE for Ladies’ and Children’s Garments; picture or description; rea- sonable prices, perfect fit. Mail orders a ee ‘ata Mrs. Weisz, 111 Lexington Ave., N.Y¥.€ MRS. MARION P. WEIGLE, Smart Shopper. Shops tor you or with you free of charge. Any- thing sent on de al. co nberoaing, References. 306 W. 99th St ee Riverside 9132. plaiting & buttons “PARIS BEAUTIFUL ‘NOVEL’ TIES" Mme. Marcignac, 10 rue des Saussaies, Paris. Parisian, great taste and exp., highest references. English speaking, will do your shopping in any line desired. HEMSTITCHING— Accordion and Knife Pleat- ing. Pinking, buttons covered and buttonholes. Dressmakers and Tailor Supplies. Send for re unusual gifts or phone, 69 West ‘45th St.. N. Y. Bryant 670. 50 West 47th Street. el. Bryant 4493. list. B. Goldsmith & Co., 628 6th Ave., N. Y PAINTED FURNITURE. Schemes suggested or | . FUR REMODELING BUY DIRECT FROM PARIS. Charges paid to your sample. Other furnishings. Good lines, mod- | Specialty of renovating Fur Garments. Prices as low = your door, latest productions of Paris. Perfumes, rate price. Write details. Mary Allen Distinctive | 88 consistent with good workmanship. A. H. Green repairing Gowns, Novelties up to a trousseau. Corres. invited. Furniture, 8 W. 28th St., N.Y. Tel., Mad. Sq. 0032. | & Son, 37 W. 37th St., New York. Tel. 2210 Fitzroy. M. Moreed, 106 Blv'd Haussman, Paris, France BEAUTIFUL HAND-PAINTED DOYLIES. Wash ALICE C. DUFFEY—1 West 34th St., N. fe with damp cloth. Lovely designs created & painted by an artist. 25c. for sample and list—allowed on first order. Beales Studio, Hasbrouck Heights, N.J. MOUNTAIN womy a a REMOVAL. Now at 159 E. 51st I . C., Lexington Ave. Tooled and income Leather Screens, Jewel Boxes, Book Ends, Lamps, Shades, Novelties. CALIFORNIA PORTIERES—Eucalyptus, Leath- maids’ uniforms TRIM, SMART UNIFORMS (Maids, Nurses, ete.) of strong materials that hold their graceful lines. Accessories of dainty Bary Nurses’ Outfitting Ass'n, 425 Fifth Ave., N. DRESSES, CAPS and Bonnets, Coats, pros Formerly with Tiffany Tel. Greeley 3735. Jewelry and bead Bag Repairing. Pearl Stringing by Appointment. wedding stationery TH Listed here represents all that ADVERTISERS is unusual in their particular line. The leading shops of the country EVERETT WADDEY CoO., for a generation has insured highest quality engraved Wedding Invita- tions at reasonable prices. Book of Wedding Etiquette tree. S. llth St., Richmond, Va. 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $8.50 or Phila. er, Mexkin. Send for Portiere catalog (A) and Art | Collars & Cuffs, he 98, Ready-made and to order invitations, hand-engraved, 2 sets of envelopes, Leather Novelty catalog (B). Price 5c. ea. (stamps) NURSES’ OUTFITTING ASS'N, shoes 100 Calling Cards, $2.00. Write for samples. Suntan Leather Co., 118 W. 9th St., Los Angeles 425 5th Ave., New York. B. Ott Engraving Co., 1031 Chestnut St., PAINTED BEDROOM FURNITURE and 4-Post SHOECRAFT SHOP—27 West 38th St., N. Y. | ENGRAVED WEDDING INVITATIONS, ETC. Beds direct from factory at distinct savings. Any ; 1] Women’s and Children’s fine footwear. Narrow | All other Social Engraving at Wholesale Prices color and decoration. Single pieces or suites. Book- miscellaneous feet a specialty. Women’s sizes 1 to 10, widths Best Quality and Service. Write for samples let. Freight paid. Ruder Bros., 11OW.40thSt.,N.Y.C. AAAAtoE. Send for Catalog HS. Fit guaranteed. | Superior Engraving Co., 2 N. 9th St., Richmond, Va, YOU ——— BE ag tng ee Suse Bat a wll. in Perm. Hair Wave. E. } to - mes sy — es » New pore. indeed at the many wonderful bar- —Manicure. ndividual style in ladies’ shoes to order in “112 gains to be had at the shops listed in IR. J. KELL Y—Chiropodis: materials and color of costumes. Write for wholesale millinery these columns. 501 5th Ave., N. Y. Phone V *anderbilt 4070-3789. booklet and directions in self-measurement. jewelry bought S. WYLER pays highest prices for pearls, dia- monds and other precious stones, also platinum, gold and silver (confidential). Est. 30 years. Bank references. 661 Fifth Ave., at 52nd St., N. Y. C SEND TO A. S. BORG by mail or express any diamonds, old gold, silver, platinum, antiques, pawn tickets, artificial teeth. Cash at once. 146 West 23rd Street, New York. HARRISON FISHER—Full line of all his latest | THE PEDIFORME SHOE. Individuality pre- | SAILORS—Smart and Refined in appearance »ictures and postcards. Pictures size 12x14 | dominates in the pose, grace and appearance. The nrg lines. Hand-made in twenty-five neches, 25 cents each, postpaid. Post card high arch, narrow heel fitting and straight toe line tie \ For the exclusive _—— only. series of six, 15 cents per set. assure you of supreme comfort Trotteur ° Hat Co., 26 West 58th Street, — NURSERY RHYME pictures by Jessie Wilcox | PEDIFORME SHOES are approved by the world’s Smith. Six subjects 12x16 inches, price 50 cents greatest authorities. By the National Board each, postpaid. ‘The Sandman,” ‘Twinkle of Y. W. C. A., Government Oversea Workers yarns Twinkle,” *“‘Child’s Grace,"’ etc. as being the only ‘‘Perfect’’ Shoe. *“*MOTHER GOOSE”’ veceaer Proclaimed by a million benefited wear- | ORIGINAL CREATIONS in Hand Knitted series by Jessie Wilcox Smith, as America’s Most Popular Shoe garments. A complete stock of yarns. Corps eighteen subjects, size 12x14 ins 36 Wi on r36th 8t., 22 Livingston St., of instructors. Elsa Barsaloux, 400 Fifth Ave., $4.50 per set. 25¢ each postpaid. New York, N.Y. Brooklyn, N. Y. New York, opposite Tiffany CASH FOR JEWELRY, Diamonds, Gems, Gold, | CATALOG—Over 200 os veo sent on receipt of silver, new or broken. Prices now cxeeptionally | postage. | deliveries guaranteed high. Est. xy years. Mme. Naftal, 69 West 35th Cosmopolitan Print De een, Street, N. Y. C. Tel. Bryant 670. 119 West 40th St., New York C Three Slices Your friends must have told you about Basy Bread, now a of Basy Bread a day, the only small deprivation was confining myself to one slice of bread at meals, but that was the order and it was a little thing indeed when I consider results. But now, that I am using the last loaf of Basy, am anxious to have your suggestion as to how to re- main at my normal weight. Thanking you, am, 5th cover, Ave., N.Y.C DOCTORS’ ESSENTIAL FOODS CO. 39 Oakwood Ave. recognized standard weight reducing ration. : Basy bread is not a medicine or drug, but a wholesome Nefvanetural way. and delicious food—scientifically prepared. - e zane we unpleasant Bye nan irksome startet x 1 1@ Basy Bread course. Legions have reported remarkable oe ae Foods Co, reductions in weight with gains in strength and health. Dear Sirs: You will be very much interested in the Basy Bread book- : I Basy Bread - let, which gives reliable information on obesity and how to In the Basy Bread course, reduce. Write for your copy to-day. Sent in sealed, plain postage prepaid. BASY BR Orange New Jersey REGISTERED — TRADE MARK VMTN SUPERFLUOUS HAIR? IT’S GONE! ZIP REG US PAT OFF ‘ » ITS OFF Secause IT'S OUT =: Permanently Destroys Hair and = Roots on Face, Arms and Body To dissolve only the surface hair is_use- less. Heavier growths result. ZIP is = totally unlike vaustics, powders and de = pilatories which merely burn off the surface = com and which leave the roots to thrive. ZIP is the rapid, harmless, painless, re- liable and fragrant compound used by leading actresses, debutantes, beauty spe- cialists. Easily applied at home, ZIP in- Stantly removes all undesirable hair without bain, leaving even the most sensitive skin = soft and smooth, = At your dealer’s or direct by mail. Call a = Office to have FREE DEMONSTRATION. = Write today for FREE Illustrated BOOK; = “A Talk on Superfluous Hair’’ on = 12 West 40th Street Dept. H, New York City Z THAT **‘SOMETHING” that you have been un- able to find in the large Dept. Stores may be listed in one of the shops in these columns. It will be worth while to glance through the list. OW you can use a face powder that cannot spill. form, covered with porous cloth. compact will be just as perfect for use. ing of the compact and the powder comes through as needed. YE YARNS PARAKEET SILKS for knitting and crocheting. Sweaters. Directions. Accessories Efficient mail order dept. Margaret Mitts, Ltd., 734 So. Mich. Ave , Chicago The powder is in cake You can drop it on the floor and the You wipe the puff on the cloth cover- You could powder your nose in the dark and you would not get too much powder, and you are sure not to spray your clothes with powder. This new, perfect way to use face powder was invented by the specialist who perfected the famous, harmless La-may Powder. = elit Arena - Vanity Box. splendid new idea. dealer for a fifty-cent La-may compact. puff from the fifty-cent package is made to fit the La-may Ask your face powder dealer to show you this that will not crumble and spill. out so evenly, you could powder your face in the dark. La-may Face Powder is also sold in the loose form for thirty-five and sixty cents. The package contains enough pure La-may Powder to last you for generous use for about two months. When this better box is empty you refill it by asking your fa t \ There are two qualities of packages. Both are very flat and hia 4 z| convenient to carry. One box with compact and puff sells iP Pe ss i for fifty cents. The other, a dainty Vanity Box with hinged ies > 4 cover and two-inch mirror, containing compact and flat | eet lamb’s wool puff, sells for only one dollar and fifty cents. a es ° This beautiful box is of the same material of which vanity a, ae: boxes are made that sell for at least three dollars. This at- Be 43 4 tractive Vanity Box will not tarnish. It will last a lifetime. 4 eA ~ 5 The compact and Remember, here, at last, is a compact And, the powder comes La-may is guaranteed abso- lutely pure and harmless. Be- cause it is pure, and because it stays on so well, it is now used by over a million American women. If your dealer refuses to get you a La-may Vanity Box, you may order by mail from Herbert Roy- stone, 16 East 18th St., New York. There is also a delightful La-may Talcum that sells in a beautiful large package for only thirty cents.

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12 DOGS THE BIGGEST HEART IN THE WORLD IS THE HEART OF A DOG Because he loves with his elastic little soul.—not with his reason. In his small worshipful mind you are the one and only divinely appointed ruler of the universe—and his life is one eternal serenade to you played by thumping tail, eager tongue and eloquent brown velvet eyes. Cats, bones, woodchucks,—all the Great Events of his small world fade into insignificance at your call,—your slightest action in his eyes, demands instant and continuous applause. Let a dog—not just any dog, but the right dog—fill up all those empty spots in your life as only the right dog can. Write: FRANK F. DOLE Harper’s Bazar Dog Dept., 119 West 40th St., New York The Dog oy the Hour VERY visitor is ex- traordinarily impressed by the appearance and Oorang Alredales are loyal companions for : . man, woman and child: faithtul protectors f . Stetess of Palisade for automobile, camp, ome anc patate ; we ideal dogs "for farm and ‘ranch; careful Why = | A olice Dogs: the natural drivers of — hogs and sheep; — result of years of scien- ratters, water-dogs, retrievers an« iunters . \ of all Kinds of game. Choice stock for a police dog? tific breeding and careful sale Illustrated catalog mailed for ten management. cents, OORANG KENNELS The “Largest Breeders of Airedale Terriers in the World Because he is most faithful 4) PALISADE KENNELS (see his war record) —s IOS ——G, Dept. P. LA RUE, OHIO Because he is most intelligent Merrick Road, Rosedale, L. I. (see his Detective and Protective Telephone, Laurelton 2138 N record) Just forty minutes from Manhattan by } Because he is an aristocrat a Oe 3 (He has the beauty of good breeding) (rR OC SACO Za “ Why OUR Police Dogs? Because of their show ring success OUR DOG Blow it into hi em be with oes gun. (Under eighteen different judges they have won two hundred and Ie bag yg hy pe Ste Ge seventy-five prizes; one hundred and seventy-seven First and Specials; Every dog needs worming occasionally. ; no a can +5 — if aha by fleas. fifty-seven Seconds; thirty-three Thirds) Sergeant’s Sure Shot Capsules for dogs to dogs and humans. Because their breeding is the best Gias'd Sor puppies) mover Sail, WS centect Kills insects by \ haletion. Fleas don’t eat it—they pune ; | ae % P dealers or from A_ Medicine breatheit, and die In the red-and-yellow wrapper (They combine the blood of the winners of the world) us by mail. for Every are the BLAC . ar sctdeees | os 5 Because they are scientifically raised | IFREE Dog Ailment ware sores. Three siaes: 20c, 50c, $1.00, (Country air, sanitary kennels, selected diet) | (cponge sro of Roches). Oe dect Because they are all registered | | 208 BOOK by mail on receipt of price. ecause they are a 5” : , : Polk Miller’s famous BLACK FLAG, Baltimore, Md. (Stud Book of Shepherd Dog Club and American Kennel Club) Dog Book, 64 pages, Five imported dogs at stud. Puppies from $100 up. Reservations training, also \pedi- ” 7 ade i > >i aj blank. t made in order of their receipt po den, Vests AIREDALE TERRIERS REXDEN-BELCARZA KENNELS yy 4 a a od ahs Sete Suite 111 Broadway, New York City today for a freecopy. a « oe 5.0 Sire’ ef’ Champion Abbey Tel. Rector 2867 POLK MILLER DRUG CO. Richmond, Va. me Dots este’ Cneten SHOW and STUD KENNEL, BREEDING KENNEL, | : Kirke Patricie. Puppies and Princeton, N. J. Islip, Long Islan | “ grown stock for sale. ! —— The Blue Grass Farm Kennels, I SHIP ON APPROVAL of BERRY, KY. BRAYVENT KENNELS | offer for sale, Setters and Pointers, Fox and Cat Hounds, Wolf and Deer Hounds, Coon and Opossum Hounds, Varmint and Rabbit Hounds, Bear and Lion Hounds, also Airedale Terriers. All dogs shipped on trial, purchaser alone to judge the quality. Satisfaction guar- 23246 Clark St., Ww field, N.J Phone 424M Westfield ALL BREEDS My place has no ap- proach of equal in Amer- anteed or money refunded. Eighty-four page Ss ica or Passos. in the highly illustrated instructive and interesting ‘ i a r) Canine Worlc catalogue for 15 cents in stamps or coin.” . AIREDALES COLLIE Absolutely nothing sold y logs of distinctive ° Our Stud Dogs and Brood Matrons except ¢ . . B T are of highest breeding and fine in- name = ane aie . oston erriers dividuality. pyeess, healthy puppies considered complete until Beautifull k Puppie at proper pri H. C. SHEAR satisfaction is assured. DOGS bo oy a Fgh ll — MAN—WI ITE “FE. ATHERS FARM I sell and ship to all as low as $35.00. Satisfac- Route 84, FREWSBURG, Ms Bs parts of the World OFFICE AND SHOWROOM Gon Eyaranteed. . — Cc e anc escri on. | 69 WEST 50t# STREET NEW YORK NODART KENNELS: Mrs. on W. Thompson, 295 Pros- . oie Ave., Ingram, Pitts- argest Bull Dog Kennet nthe Wore - BisHopManor — vie See PEKINGESE De reacpetoeg | This photo — a well = best quality. merited result of a most All puppies inocu- excellent blending of the Farm KENNELS ‘ar oe SOS % HERS lated against distemper blood of our most typi- pages contain announce- Nothing under fifty cal winners. ments of the best kennels in the dollars. Sunnidale We have some puppies White country. They can fulfill your Kennels Registered. now. dials $50.00 up. DUC wishes, no matter what kind of : Females $35.00 up . log you want. In communicating, a a FERN LEA KENNELS Scotch Collies it will help if you mention Har- urlington awa Box 8 ; , pers Bazar. o_o. Bayville, L. 1, N.Y. Arvington Mlabama - THOROUGHBRED BOOK ON BRENTWOOD AIREDALES Boston Terriers WHITE COLLIES for quality breeding A few choice specimens, both The Most Beautiful DOG DISEASES AT STUD sexes, for sale, by the celebrated Dogs in the World “Brentwood Barnstormer” a ee horses ng Re = And How to Feed Rebound Chorister, Brentwood Billy Boy Finest head and expression of | the Children, Com- panion for the House- Mailed Free to any address any dog in the country. Prices hold, and an Ideal America’s by the Author Pups by these dogs occasionally for $20.00 up H. CLAY GLOVER CO.. Inc sale. Send om, for illustrated L. triberry—Brentwood Kennels—Kings High- 118 West 31s: St., York a MASSASOIT KENNELS Dog Remedies 8 West 31st St., New Yor way and Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, New York. ~_ iy Renate MEDOR KENNELS Formerly of London, England Our specialty is Pekingese and Wire Haired Fox Terriers. Many blue ribbon winners. All other breeds. 70 West 47th Street New York Near 6th Avenue Phone Bryant 6340 Shepherd. Pairs Not Akin. SHOMONT KENNELS Box 457 Monticello, lowa | PEKINGESE LARGEST KENNEL IN AMERICA All ages and colors Chiefly “Sleeve Dogs” and puppies Champien Bred) SOME AS LOW AS $25 Satisfaction guaranteed. Safely shipped anywhere. Send for photographs and description MRS. H. A. BAXTER 489 FIFTH AVENUE, New York GREAT NECK, L. Lio Tel. Vanderbilt 1236 Tel. Great Neck 418 Specimen puppy

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Every Kennel in Harper’s Bazar Is Recommende bag saa I R | > D A E ‘The One Man Dog” “The Dog That Thinks’’ An Airedale Terrier is the Dog Supreme for At Stud: International Champion Koote- Companionship, for Watch Dog purposes, nai Chinook, the only American Bred and Surpasses Every Other Dog on Earth International Airedale Champion on as a Companion for Children. The all Earth. Fee $25. dd f the ti f it try, VIBERT AIREDALE F ARM pg eka! ~ sel jie lial aii Puppies Sired by International Cham- Largest Exclusive Airedale Farm in the World pion Kootenai Chinook now ready for PHONE, BOUND BROOK, 397 We Offer country bred, farm raised pup- |mmediate Delivery. pies from registered thoroughbred stock; Box 31 Weston, New Jersey a full grown male, and a full grown female Prompt shipment. Safe delivery. Satisfac- Illustrated booklet and price list upon request already served by a registered stud. tion guaranteed. SUNNYBRAE omer FRENCH BULL DOGS Beloi , } COLLIE KENNELS | |! SHEPHERD PUPPIES Ifyou wane a ret || Belgian Police Dogs | one Sy ste race tnt (Police Dogs) pal we have i (Groenendacies) | best breeding. Our Kennels are full of the Parbold, by our Champion Stock for sale P. A. B. Widener, Owner. Satisfaction Guaranteed. | | Most beautiful and intelligent of all breeds. Grand lot of | puppies ready to ship, all ages. ¥ [: H. Persson Groenendaeles Ken- ALF DURNE | KENNELS nels, 100 Willow Avenue, Rose- bank, Staten Island. Weigh f: 16 to 25 di: Strains. For 35¢ will send | a er — on training the | Address all communications to ollie. | | LEWIS S. WORDEN, Mgr. Joselie Kennets | * F. RAYMOND CLARK, | | Elkins Park, Pennsylvania — Huntington Sta., L.1., N.Y. The Kind We Breed a ee ______| SNOW WHITE ESQUIMO PUPPIES ~ PEKINGESE bet team|| THE RENARD KENNELS of Stamford, Conn. "| The smartest, handsomest and cutest dogs on earth. Just the thing for children, play ro are offering for sale some of their noted winning Wire Haired Fox oe, ce © on ee + Terrier dogs and Brood bitches at very attractive prices. Also a gee aut puppies are g.5° Kennels number of puppies varying in ages from 10 weeks to 11 months. For Full of, vigor, picture of Avenue, Engle- full information address communications to at an, Fer MR. FRANK FIRTH, MGR. RENARD KENNELS liberal Wil, shia approval ‘0 min.motor Stamford, Conn. = antee safe delivery anywhere. THE BROCKWAY KENNELS - = Baldwin, Kansas TRADE MARK REG. PAT. OFF, ALLEN’S FRENCH HAIR NETS THE OLD ORIGINAL QUALITY | $1 00 A DOZEN WHEN ORDERED DIRECT e— FROM US THE IMPORTERS Mailed Free Anywhere by Insured Parcel Post “SLIPPON” CAP SHAPE hair nets in my and small sizes, $1.00 adozen “IMPORT SPECIAL” ‘tines, straight shape, hair nets in Mail This Coupon! WHITE OR GREY hair nets, $1.50 a dozen / And learn how to Restore Gray Hair in 4 to 8 days G E O R G E A L L E N ’ INC. This coupon brings you a 1214 CHESTNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA. free sample of é MARY ot neasndinanciathadadanaes Established 1829 CO OR RESTORER and a special comb to apply it. Test it on one lock of hair. Watch the gray disappear r and the natural color return. Also importers of D, M. C. French Embroidery and Crochet Cotton. Booklet on Request. ‘None Genuine Without This Trade Mark. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR REMOVER A treatment that will remove perma- ; Note how dainty and clean —v all Superfluous 7. ~—S i ———— =a it is, how easy to use. How ace or any part of the body without : . 'it leaves your hair soft and fluffy. laving a mark on the most delicate ||| Have You a Little Problem in Your Home? Spee fw & skin. i ir roots an : destroys re . No electric Maybe it’s the wall paper | Then get a full sized bottle from needle, burning caustics or powders Tcke ite ohare io howe parchment your druggist or direct from us. Don’t used. or silk in the new lamp shadc— accept pence 7 gue HE ep 9 nothing One application of Mi-Rita will quickl Maybe it’s how to have the breakfast room “just as good.” Insist on the one and and ca inn ai aoe 4 done—in orange and blue or lavender and green— only MARY T. GOLDMAN’S HAIR hair without pain, leaving the skin soft DON’T WORRY COLOR RESTORER. and smooth. | | P Just put your little problem in an envelope and AR a MA Every woman who is troubled with | mail it to Anne Duncan at Harper’s Bazar MARY T. GOLD N superfluous hair should know that Mi- Then forget all about it oS Galena SSD oe, ee Ri r Meanwhile this ablest of interior decorators ita will permanently destroy the most will have set her wits and her experience to work re One r EET Ae Oona en are stubborn growth of hair, and this treat- | And some fine ae along sn your break- ® Please send me your FREE trial bottle of ment can be used successfully at home. ast coftee will come a letter telling you just e Mary T. Goldman’s Hair Color Restorer with s Aas what to do and how to do it. ® special comb. I am not obligated in any way § Sond for Free Beauty — pisting our = bY, socepting | this, free offer. The naturals exclusive preparations for beautifying ? | g color of my hair is . the skin and hair. For sale at all son Her Address ? ANNE DUN : : ares and Toilet Counters or write UNCAN . black.... jet black.... dark brown.... - gical Department of Interior Decorating . . Dr. Margaret Ruppert HARPER’S BAZAR - medium brown.... light brown.... » Sole Owner of t« 27 !-Pita Treatment : : Dept. D, 1112 Che ll Street 119 West 40th Street, New York = Name Nis Tcdindas vepeceiee Stas nace . Philadelphia, Pa., U.S.A. : J]is : Establise ) sears —— eel Diisacssws DM Sccccins .

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TOT I anna SCHOOLS

Camps Camps LET US INTRODUCE YOU PERSONALLY — TO THE BEST SCHOOLS AND CAMPS Camp Quinipet IN THE COUNTRY prea i SHELTER ISLAND, N.Y, Eastern end of Long Island, One Mile of Water Front. 100 Miles from New York. 100 Miles from Boston. Quickly reached by train or

In this issue of Harper’s Bazar you will find announce- motor car. GIRLS OF ALL AGES, but sepa- ments from more than 200 schools, both for boys and girls. ~~ 9 — Af. : Practically every state that supports a good private school | Seate sae nenty Gvieed buncalew- THE TALL PINES ***rs;.c2" is represented. Surely, you need not look elsewhere for a \ surf-bathing trips to Amagansett Seniors 7-13 Seniors 13-18 Clab over 18 school or camp to meet your requirements. ak, dit ae ee ae - people, s e! ceptec ive in On e at Bennington, N. H., the i1]— j ; i H large, handsome cottages Gu Lake Scores ot the = = ec healthy a And still the type in which you are particularly interested tents. Unusual eanertantin, for spot as can be found anywhere. Athletics, may not be listed here. Please bear in mind that we have i A those at a toes to know where to i ”) _ anvoei p 8 sket- ° spend y 0 ee ends, og 7 Hy - F- - -* on file in the office of our School Department a complete Use of boats, instruction in sein: dancing. | Special opportunity | for, horseback record of every private school in the country, and that the ‘~ ie ic ae ne j ¢ ela -W. > a u rounc 0 ¢ for a booklet with the stories and pictures of camp life at Teela-Wooket. water activities. A play or pageant given eac h ps s summer iding a specialty. Fine ne fs) MR, AND MRS. C. A. ROYS, 10 Bowdoin St., Cambridge, Mass. saddle horses. Overnight trips. Hiking. Camp é | crafts. Nature study. Swimming instruction and swimming meets with cup award. Camp | comforts. An expert counsellor for each four girls. Three distinct groups—Juniors 17-12. Intermediates 12-15. Seniors 15-19. Ask for SOUTH SEA CAMP ann oki ADELE AMES CURRIER BABYLON, NEW YORK _ New Jersey Law School Newark, N. J. Refined home camp for girls from four to | 4 i _—_ | sixteen, overlooking the great South Bay. All outdoor games: swimming, tennis, horse- back riding. 5 Individual care and attention, FOR GIRLS 7 og hl . I Cc K For particulars address | . . . e ren’s Camp | MRS. MARY M. HADEN. Director South Fairlee, Vt., Fairlee, Vt., and Pike, N. H. Catskitt-on-Hudeon, M. } Babylon, New Y ork 3 distinct camps—ages, 7-13, 13-17, 17-30 An interesting summer home for boys and — — girls 3 to 10 years. Modern conveniences; FUN FROLIC FRIENDSHIPS complete equipment; dancing; music. Bathing AMP Lipa ddy td P ; x mee 4 and other suitable sports. Open ai: sleeping; Swimming, canoeing, horseback riding, tennis, bas- | Camp limited to fifty; one councillor for every PRESTON PARK, PA. ketball, baseball. Handcrafts. Dramatics. Music. Our | four ee re ae Private preserve of 300 acres on_pic- — Wasdnene t —, ped mind a Se The Mother's Heiper and Elementary Schoo! turesque twin lakes at 2000 ft. elev. Every ter. Vigilance for health and safety. 17th season, 190 870 Riverside Drive, N. Y. Tel. Audubon 435 mountain and water sport. Senior camp girls have been in Samp sae pet a a serious acci- for girls 14 to 24. Junior camp for girls dent. Mr. and Mrs. ulick’s personal supervision. 4 to 14. Kindergarten camp for children Splendid equipment. Mustrated booklet. » MONTESSORI CAMP 3 to 8. For details, address Children three to twelve years. Wycombe, Pa., ° ° ° 60 miles from New York. Scientific Direction Co MRS. E. L. GULICK 221 Addin on Road Brookline Mass. covering eight years’ experience. Anna _ Windle Clark School of ncentration : gt ‘ o Paist, Directress, Montessori First Boarding and 312 West 72d Street, New York City Day School, Philadelphia, Pa.

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camh SHROEHEEMERES s then sen ik ite Camps New York Siaiis arm 15 d for catalogs AAA New York Schools Camp Eastford The Place for a Boy Pomfret, Conn. For wide-awake, clean, manly boys from seven to seventeen. For boys who like scout life, the open country, the long wood trails. For boys who want to swim, fish, hike, ride a horse or paddle a canoe College and university such boys direct all camp fortable buildings, well located. food. Catalogue. STANLEY KELLEY, Director men who were just activities. Com- Lots of good ASH-NO-CA “A Boys’ Club” In the Mountains of North Carolina Not a school, not a camp, but a place planned, equipped, and conducted for the pleasure and physical and moral welfare under vrenitectt during the summer. mate. No mosquitoes. Sports include hiking, mountain climbing, camping, canoeing, swim- ming, boating, tennis, baseball, track, golf. EVERYTHING A BOY LIKES. Fine build- ings furnish healthful sleeping accommodations and other buildings ample place for recreation in wet weather. Boys have best possible care. Large farm furnishes abundance of wholesome food. 714 acre tract. Address GEORGE JACKSON Asheville School Asheville, N. C. SUMMER SCHOOLS Woodcraft ULVER Naval Cavalry Artillery Eight weeks at Culver Summer School, hiking, * in the saddle or afloat, hold a wealth of good fun and real benefit for your boy. Write for catalogue of school that interests you. Naval (mini- mum age 14). Cavalry, 14. Artillery, 14. Woodcraft, 12. Aviation, 16, Address Secretary’s Aide. Culver, Ind. (On Lake Maz .nkuckee) Harrison, Maine I have a good camp in the Sebago Lake Region. Why keep it a secret? I love boys and can give you the summer of your life. Please let me send you a booklet. IRWIN L. WOODMAN 6 W. 82nd Street New York CAMP WAGANAKI Home camp on Maine lake for 25 boys under 14 years, where initiative and resourcefulness are developed under mature and experienced councilors. Carle 0. Warren, 55 Hanson PI., Brooklyn, N. Y. BONNIE DUNE -- Cape Cod, Mass. All the fun of camp, all the care of home given a few boys (8-14 years) on breezy, sunny, healthy Cape Cod. Mrs. Dwicut L. RoceErs, DwicHt_ L. Rocers, Jr., Directors, 8 Parkside Road, Providence, Rhode Island CAMP % VEGA CHARLESTON, ONTARIO, CAN. An Island for boys, 8-15. Fishing, hunting, swim- ming, canoeing, tutoring. 3 motor boats. from New York. Mrs. HeENry WarD BEECHER, Room B, 121 East 57th St., N. Y. City. CAMP CHAMPLAIN, on Mallett’s Bay, Lake Champlain, between the Green and Adirondack Mountains. A SUMMER outing for boys, where health and happiness are our ideals. Everything that growing boys enjoy doing, under careful su- pervision, including all sports—canoeing, swimming, hiking, horseback riding, baseball, basketball, etc. Ages 7 to TS 27th Year. Illustrated Booklet upon request. WM. H. BROWN, President Berkeley- Irving School, 307 W. 83rd Street, New York City. CAMP NAUTILUS An Island in Casco Bay, Maine, touched only at one point by the ocean. A safe camp for girls, 12 to 20. Hotel accommodations near by for parents. MRS. L 199 Vaughn Street Portland, Me. 12 hours | sun! Camp Coummnt |. North Falmouth, Mass., on Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod. The Seashore Camp for Girls. Safe canoeing, swimming and water sports. Free horseback riding, trained instructor, tennis, basketball, || field contests. Seniors and Juniors, Good food, good fun and good care. Address Miss Beatrice A. Hunt 20 Plymouth St. Holbrook, Mass. || eRe Bic 7 sta A Delightful home school which carries the girl through from kindergar- ten to high school. On a large estate one hour’s ride from New York. The students range from 4 to 16 y the number, owing to emphasis on individual struction and personal is limited to 25. on care, MARY M. HADDEN, Director Babylon, N. Y. Pwest Islip boarding and Country day School | CAMP WINNAHKEE. A superior Camp for Girls | on Mallett’s Bay, Lake Champlain. Every conven- ience and comfort to insure a summer of health, safety and real enjoyment, among the pines. All land and water sports, horseback riding, motor- boating, dramatics, dancing. Handcrafts—jewelry, basketry, ete. Trained nurse. Booklet sent upon request. Mrs. Wm. Brown, 307 W. 83rd St., New York City. , RICHFIELD SPRINGS Bella Pista New york Exclusive Camp for Girls For particulars address MISS FITZGERALD, 366 Fifth Avenue, New York | w yo Vt. The Personal care. canoeing, handicraft, riding, dancing, ——- aoore study, trips, tutoring. Boo and Mrs. Newcomer, Lowerre Summit Park. Yonkers, A Ideal Home Camp for Camp Mother. All woodcraft, mountain Harvey N. Y. Lake Fairlee, Young Girls sports, swimming, New York Schools Residence in New VBork FOR GIRL STUDENTS MRS. HENRY HARRISON BOSWELL 344 West 84th Street, Chaperonage Prospectus on Request uments Exclusive Home in New York in a luxurious private house on West 86th Street, for two young ladies wishing to be chaperoned while continuing their studies in art, secretarial, and music. For particular information write to the School Bureau, Harper’s Bazar, 119 West 40th St. Home with Chaperonage while studying, or iene. in MISS LUCY HNSON, Chaperone MAY JO The Webster, 40 West 45th Street Booklet on request. Near Fifth Ave. THE SEMPLE SCHOOL For Girls. A city School with Country Advantages. Opposite Central Park. Boarding and Day pupils. Special and Finishing courses Languages, Art, Music and Dramatic Art. Social life. Outdoor Recreation. Mrs. T. Darrington Semple, Principal, Box B, New York City. 241 Central Park West, The Finch Schoo . oe. =~. ae Boarding and Day School for Girls, post-graduate work. Jessica G. Cosgrave, A.B., LL.B., Principal Anne E. Boardman, A.B., A.M., Associate Prin. Address for Secretary of Admissions. emphasizing catalogue, The Benjamin School for Girls BOARDING AND DAY PUPILS ELEMENTARY, HIGH SCHOOL AND POST-GRADUATE COURSES. 144 Riverside Drive New York City | SOCIAL MOTIVE SCHOOL A Co-educational Day School. All grades and High School. Courses include French: Music; Fine and Industrial Arts; Domestic Arts and Gym- —— Boys’ and Girls’ Afternoon Outdoor Clubs. talog upon request. BER BENTLEY, Principal. 526 West i14th Street, New York City. THE MONTESSORI SCHOOL For children 2% to 10 years. Playground, music, rhythmic work. French, modelling, carpentry, afternoon activities optional. Hot luncheon. Teachers’ Training Class. The SCUDDER SCHOOL 316 West 72nd Street at Riverside Drive NEW YORK CITY HIGH SCHOOL: College Preparatory and practical. GRADUATE SCHOC IL: (1) Sec- retarial with unusual features (2) Household rts (3) Social Welfare and Community Service. Inquire about this cae course. Address Miss H. B. Scudd SCOVILLE SCHOOL for GIRLS 2042 Fifth Avenue., New York City Full preparatory and advanced studies, Art, Music. Intericr decor- ation, Dramatic Expression, Lan- guages and Practical Courses, In- dividual care and supervision. For catalog address Miss Rosa B. Chisman | THE GARDNER SCHOOL if East Sist Street, New York City Fireproof building, College preparatory, Academic, Secretarial and elective courses. Music, riding, swimming, tennis, rhythmic dancing, outdoor athletics. 63d year. Address Miss Eltinge and Miss Masland, Principals. BRANTWOOD HALL Lawrence Park, Bronxville, New York A country school for girls. Resi- dent and day pupils. College Preparation and general courses. aksmere MRS. MERRILL’S SCHOOL for GIRLS ORIENTA POINT MAMARONECK, NEW YORK Mrs.) A. RENO MARGULIES 673 West End Avenue New York Institute of Musical Art of the City of NewYork | An endowed school. Frank Damrosch, Director. } Provides a thorough and comprehensive musical edu- cation in all branches and equipped to give highest advantages to most exceptional talents. Address SECRETARY, 120 Claremont Ave., N. Y. City. DREW SEMINARY. The Carmel School for | Girls on Lake Gleneida, Carmel, N. Y. 49 miles from N. Y. City. 600 feet elevation. Home-like atmosphere. General and special courses. Athletics. 55th year. Clarence Paul McCelland, President. QUANSET The Cape Cod Camp for Girls Pleasant Bay, South Orleans, Mass. Mr. and Mrs. E. A. W. Hammatt South Orleans, Mass. On Box 4 Hewlett School HEWLETT, LONG ISLAND Primary through College Preparatory. outdoor sports, All Box 204. Carmel, N. Y. | Vised Mr General, PUTNAM HALL Prepares for VASSAR, WELLESLEY, SMITH, MT. HOLYOKE, and other leading colleges. Post graduate courses. sports. Write for interest- | ing booklet. Ellen C. Bartlett, A.B., Principal Box 803 Poughkeepsie, New York The Knox School for Girls Formerly at Tarrytown-on-Hudson, now on Otsego wake, Cooperstown, New York. For catalog and views, address Mrs. Russell Houghton, Box 10, Cooperstown, N, Y. New York, Long Island, Garden City, Cathedral School of Saint Mary A ScHooL FoR GiRLs, 19 miles from New_York. College preparatory and general courses. Music Art and Domestic Science. Catalogue on request. Miss MiriaM A. ByTEL, Principal. MONTEMARE SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Adirondacks Florida Spring and Fall Term. Mid-Winter Term. Outdoor life every day. Horseback riding, sports. Cones preparatory, academic, commmatienal courses. En- trance at any time. ANNA A. RYAN, " A.B., Headmistress, Lake Placid Club, New York. | WALLCOURT MISS GOLDSMITH’S SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. Catalog. | College preparatory and General Courses. aan Athletics. 18 acres. Catalog. Address s. Anna Goldsmith Taylor, Principal. Aurora-on-Cayug Y. THE MANOR SCHOOL Eighteen miles from New York. Will have vacan- ‘ies for ten resident pupils for the Fall term. College Preparatory and Special Courses. year. ut aH ‘PSYCHOLOGICAL CLINIC { for young people will be opened by Miss Mason’s School, Tarry- | town-on-Hudson, New York, Feb- ruary Ist. The result of the psychological work with the pupils of The Castle School has been so satis- factory that Miss Mason invites parents of exceptionally bright children or those slightly retarded in classes, to avail themselves of the skilled psychologists and medical experts employed for her own students. = For the benefit of parents visiting New York, examinations will be held by appointment at The Van- derbilt Hotel. } {| For particulars, address Secretary, Psychological Department, | eMiss «Nlason’s School | New York | | Tarrytown, Miss Mason’s School for Girls On the Hudson, 45 minutes from New York. Graduate, preparatory, special, vo- cational departments. Sepaiate school for little girls. Surmmer School emphasizes vo- cational training. For either catal E. MA Box 942 Tarrytewn-on-Hu Ursuline Academy MIDDLETOWN, NEW YORK Elementary, Grammar and College Preparatory Courses. Board and Tuition $650. Inclusive of extras $1000. For particulars address THE DIRECTRESS OSSINING SCHOOL For Girls. 52nd year. Academic and economic courses Se parate schwol for i For catalog address Clara Marth Naramore, Assoc. Ossining-on-Hudson, Box |- Principal. Prin. New York, HIGHLAND MANOR, Tarrytown - on - Hudson, New York. Non-sectarian boarding school for uirls on site formerly occupied by Knox School. Liberal Arts, College Preparatory, Postgraduate, Primary, Intermediate. Home -making. Lehman, Box B, Address } Sapene H. New Yor Secretarial, Outdoor life. Tarrytown, RUSSELL SAGE COLLEGE Founded by Mrs. Russell Sage in connection with Emma Willard School. A School of Practical Arts. Secretarial Work, Household Economics and Indus- tria) Arts. B.A. and B.S. Degrees. Address Sec- retary. RvussELL SaGE C roy, i. ¥. For boys and girls between ages of 6 and 12. Individual beds, complete school equipment. Altitude 800 ft. at gateway to the Berkshires. Two hours from New York. Address MRS. L. S. TEBBETTS Dover Plains New York THE CHILDREN’S HOUSE An all-the-year Home School for boys and girls, 6-14. Modern buildings, country estate Fine, healthful surroundings. Send for catalog Mrs. c. BARD, Principal, Tarrytown-on- j. Hudson, N. Y. NOBLE SCHOOL White Plains, N. Y. Boarding School for girls from 6 to 14 KATHLEEN NOBLE JEROME, Manager A School on the Hudson We shall be glad to assist you in the selection of a school. Perhaps you are finding it dif- ficult to make a choice when so many good schools are represented. Please bear in mind that Harper’s Bazar maintains a School Bu- reau where you can secure accurate and re- liable information.

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16 Are you goin g — to abroad ste eyt Write Harper’s

Foreign Schools

Pennsylvania Schools

New England Schools

New England Schools

Wonderful Opportunity at the CHATEAU de GROSLAY (25 minutes from Paris) A famous and exclusive school for a lim- ited number of girls who desire complete study and mastery of the French Language, History of Art and French Literature. Also opportunities for the serious study of Mu- sic, Expression, Dancing, ete Students have the privilege of attending the lectures of the Alliance Francaise and Sorbonne. Excursions per motor to points of historic CVhe A ary 4 y Lyon School Comfort and cheerful- ness in every nook and corner. Rooms have ad- joining baths, long mir- rors, ete. College prep- aration, general courses — Homemaking, Music and Secretarial. High School graduates in their own school Wild- cliff; Seven Gables for girls 11-14 and little folks 6-11 in Hillcrest. Each separate school You have a cordial in- vitation to visit in the Mothers’ Room. Indicate

| Lincoln School Located in fine residential section of Providence. Extensive campus provides for outdoor sports. Horseback riding. College preparatory, elective, and secre-

Alps on Lake Geneva Ten hours from Paris. Languages and com- plete courses. Voyage chaperoned. For par- ticulars write Mme. e Bermuth, 37 Madison Avenue, New York City.

~ VILLA ALLIANCE school for girls in Paris. Limited Number. Individual Attention. For information address Miles Latapie, 63 Avenue d'lena, Paris, or Mrs. Dickson, “‘La France’’ Magazine, 220 West 42d St., New York City.

New Jersey Schools

St. Mary’s Hall for Girls College Preparatory and Secretarial o years Post-Graduate Work. Music, Art, Domestic Science, Gymnasium, Outdoor Sports and Riding. Mrs. Fearnley, Principal, Box 418, santana New Jersey General, Courses New Jersey, Ora MISS. BEARD’ Ss SCHOOL FOR GIRLS A country school, 13 miles from New York. College preparatory, special courses. Music, Art, Domestic Arts and Science. Supervised physical work in gym- nasium and field. Catalog on request Address Miss Lucip C. Brarp,

Summit, N. J. KENT PLACE 20 miles from N. Y¥. A Country School for Gir College Preparatory and Academic Courses. Mrs. Sarah Woodman Paul } Miss Anna S. Woodman f Principals

Dwight School for Girls College preparatory and special courses. Limited number of pupils. Spacious grounds. Suburban to New York —- Address Box 617, Engle- wood, New Jers miss CREIGHTON and MISS FARRAR, Prin’s. CENTENARY COLLEGIATE INSTITUTE school in beautiful country near New 48th year. 5 modern buildings; 50 acres; $600,000 equipment; athletics, swimming pool, etc. Sensible regulations and dress. College daa certificates. General and special courses. Ca alog on request. Or, Robert J. Trevorrow, Pres., Box 49, Hackettstown, N. J. ST. ELIZABETH-OF-THE-ROSES Non-sectarian from 3 to 10. Boys, from 3 to 7. Open Rates $75 per month. Mothering For particulars wr Stoddard, Directress, “Caldwell, N. J.

Girls, w. LITTLE CHILDREN’S HOME-SCHOOL for ten children. Open all the year. A real home with experienced individual supervision. Boysunder seven, girls under ten. Address Director, Box 204, Millington, New Jersey

School for practical training of |} young women. College Departments, usic, Art, Domestic Science, ete arge hew gymnasium. For catalog, address as above. Jenkintown, Pa.

DARLINGTON SEMINARY A developing School for Girls. 60-acre estate in Pennsylvania’s finest country. Language, Art, Music, Expression, Secretarial, Business, and House- hold M anagement. College Preparation. Catalogue. Cc gy I *. Byzg, President, Box 622, West Chester, ‘a. OGONTZ SCHOOL Founded 1850. A school for girls occupying an estate on the summit of Rydal Hills, 25 minutes from Phila. Illustrated booklet describ- ing new building mailed on request. Rydal, Junior Department. MISS ABBEY A. SUTHERLAND, | Principal, Pennsylvania, Montgomery County DEVON MANOR In Valley Forge region. 16 miles from Philadelphia. College Preparatory. Vocational work. Domestic Arts, Secretarial, Social Service, Art, Music. RS. LANGDON CASKIN, Principal Box 102, Devon Manor, Devon, Pa. LINDEN HALL SEMINARY For Girls. Est. 1746. Beautiful, h althful location. Academic, College Preparatory a Special Courses. Separate Junior Department. v. F. W. Stengel “Prin., Box 122, Lititz, Pa.

BISHOPTHORPE MANOR A SELECT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Convenient to New York and Philadelphia. College preparatory and general courses. Secretarial work. chur Department » Wyant, Principal, Box 246, Bethlehem, Pa HIGHLAND HALL "vyoeo In old residential Hollidaysburg, located in the most beautiful and healthful section of the Al- legheny mountains. College preparatory, general and post-gradaate courses MISS ELLEN C. KEATES, A.B., Principal, Heliidayshurs, Pa. The SANATORIUM SCHOOL For the treatment and instruction of chil- dren who through physical handicap or ill health are behind in their studies. CLAUDIA M. REDD, Prin., Lansdowne, Pa.

PENNSYLVANIA, Overbrook. Miss Sayward's School f°,‘ "1s; Philadelphia. College preparatory and secretarial courses. Music, Domestic Science. Physical train- ing, outdoor sports, horseback riding, swimming. Develops character, mind and body. Write Dept B. For Girls.

Miss JANET SATWARD, Principal.

THE COWLES SCHOOL FOR GIALs. In suburbs. City advantages 8 miles away. College Preparatory, General, Music, Art, Primary through High School. Riding. Small Classes. Separate house for younger girls. Oliver —— Visiting Director, Piano Dept. Emma Milton Cowles, A.B., e of School, Oak Lane, Philadelphia, Pa.

Western Schools

OLD ORCHARD Home School and Nursery Day and Boarding 216 HILLSIDE AVE. LEONIA,N., J.

SCHOOL IN NINTH YEAR ANNA G,. NOYES, Director Author—How I Kept My Baby Well

For healthy and normal children between 4 and 8 years; babies under 4 years. } HEALTH OF FIRST IMPORTANCE Selected toys and companionship of other children offer every oppor- tunity for all-round development of each child. Number Assistants: women of highest type. BOOKLET ON APPLICATION. limited.

® for Young Women. Lindenwood College Four year courses con- ferring B.A. and B.S. degrees. Two year Junior col- lege course confers A.A. degree. Exceptional voca- tional home economics, secretarial and other courses. Por catalog address J. egree courses in music. -1, St. Charles, Mo. Roemer, D.D., President, Box C FRANCES SHIMER SCHOOL For Girls and Young Women. 2 years’ College, 4 years’ Academy. Music, Art, Expression, Home Economics, Secretarial and Teachers’ Courses. Certificate Privileges Catalog. Rev. = FP. Mc mee, Dean, Box 660, Mt. Carroll, IL The Bishop's School for Girls. La Jolla, California. Upon the Scripp’s Foundation. Upper and Lower School, Educational and social training equal to that of Eastern Schools is combined with the advantages of the healthiest climate in the world. Right Reverend Jonge Johnson, President. Marguerite Garten, A., Headmistress. ERRY HALL College preparatory, general high school and advanced courses. Also special instruc- tion in music, Ny app and domestic arts and | sciences. Located in a picturesque woodland estate of | twelve acres on the shore of Lake Michigan, 28 miles

| fm Chicago. For catalog address Miss ELoise | BR. TREMAIN, Prin., Box 313, Lake Forest, Ill.

THE ANNA HEAD SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Primary, Grammar and High School. Accredited East or West. Ou ” study and school rooms. | Gymnasium, tennis, basketball, swimming pool, ete. 33rd year. For catalog write | , Miss Mary E. Wilson, Principal | 2554 C g Way Berkeley, Calif. |

interest, art galleries, museums, theaters, ete. Students chaperoned to and from New ne 4 Mes A, sed tarial courses. Home Economics. Modern York. For particulars, address Madame E. ‘ipal buildings and equipment. Le Bermuth, Madison Square Hotel, 37 Mi Madison Avenue, New York City. ss ae + nag er a rovidence, ode Islan 1 Box 425, JENKINTOWN, Pa. _ SWITZERLAND BEACON French School for American girls in Swiss BEECHWOOD se a A Country-City Boarding and Day Sch boys and girls of all ages. College preparatory | and diploma course: | MRS. ALTHEA H. ANDREW, Principal } 1440 Beacon St. Brookline, Mass. |

The GARLAND School of HOMEMAKING A special school which qualifies girls to preside over and maintain well ordered homes. MARGARET J. STANNARD, Director 2 Chestnut Street Boston, Mass. The Chamberlayne School General, special and college preparatory courses. Household arts. c. Languages—native teach- ers. Out-of-door sports. THE Fenway, 28, Boston, Mass. CHOATE SCHOOL 1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Massachusetts Home and day school for girls. Augusta Choate, Vassar, A.B., A.M., Principal. Helen Anderson Smith, Associate Principal. THE BURNHAM SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Founded by Mary A, Burnham in 1877. Opposite Smith College Campus. Miss HeLten E. THOMPSON, Headmistress, Northampton, Massachusetts.

MCE HU in’ Mee 30 miles from Boston. ) HOUS N TH NES A school = B.4 Preparatory and finishing courses. owned teachers. Music, Household Arts. Secretarial courses. Every attention, not only to habits of study, but to each girl’s health and hap- piness. Miss Gertrupe E. CornisH, Principal.

Wheaton College for Women Only small separate college omy in Massa- chusetts. 4-year course. egree. Faculty of men and women. 20 buildings. 100 acres Catalog. Rev. Samvuet V. Corp, D.D., LL.D., President. Massachusetts, Norton (30 miles from Boston). WALNUT HILL SCHOOL A College Poqueetens School for Girls. 17 miles from Boston. es. Skating pond. Athletic telds (end lg Miss CONANT, Miss BiGELow, 30 Highland St.,

Evinaipals, atick, Mass.

. . on Howard Seminary for Girls 7, ™"s3| Boston. College preparatory and general courses. | Household economics Strong courses in ee | mental and vocal music. Military drill. Horse- back riding. All sports. Upper and lower school, 50 pupils. Mr. and Mrs. C. P. Kendall, Princi- pals. 26 Howard Street, West Bridgewater, Mass.

LASELL SEMINARY - Auburndale, Mass. Advanced work for ‘eo - ee getastne. Home Eco- nomics, Secretarial, and Pre-Conservatory Mu- sic Courses. Athletic Aneids. 30 acres. hd een GUY M. WINSLOW, Ph.D., Princ CHAS. F. TOWN A.M., Assoc. "Principal 137 Woodland Road ROGERS HALL SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Lowell, Massachusetts. 38 minutes from Boston. Country sports. Gymnasium _ swimming pool. For catalogue and views, addres: MISS OLIVE SEWALL PARSONS, B.A., Principal MOUNT IDA SCHOOL for GIRLS Exceptional opportunities with a delightful home life Send for Year Book 2520 Summit Street, Newton, Mass.

THE GATEWAY ,,<2iless Preparatory General and special courses, including stenography and typewriting. Domestic Arts. Athletic field. Horseback riding. Miss ALIce Suenesae,, ag rinsionl. St. Ronans Terrace New Haven, Conn. PHELPS SCHOOL for GIRLS Hiilfield, Mount Carmel, Connecticut 125 acre estate with Farmhouse and Cabin. Pre- | paratory, General, and Special Courses, interesting | Children’s Depariment open for school year and | for summer residence—Interviews (School or New York) by appointment. |

Norwalk, Conn, FOR GIRLS. HILLSIDE ation. Cultural Courses ouse! 5 | practice in a real home. ized Athie (Vassar); VIDA HUNT gen, AB: B Vassar ith), Principals. GL | “The School Palatial.’”’ vi

EN EDEN For high-school girls and

graduates. All studies; no exams. Magnificent granite buildings, 15 acres, overlooking sea. Im- mense gymnasium; cosy theatre. Fifty minutes from 5th Avenue, New York. Address Cor. Sec’y Glen Eden, Stamford, Conn. SOUTHFIELD POINT HALL &. schoo! for girls. Beautifully located on Long Island Sound. Inter- mediate, General and College Preparatory Courses, Music, Gymnastics, Athletics and Sports. Address Jessie Callam Principal Gray, B.A., 6 Davenport Drive St THE ELY SCHOOL Ely Court Greenwich, Connecticut Inthecountry. One hour from New York, amford, Conn.

Special Schools

Two Large Buildings, Excellent Ap- pointment, Forty Acres of Woodland; Garden, Orchards, Riding, Driving, Baseball, Tennis, Basketball, Gym- nasium, Games, Entertainment and Woodcraft. KATONAH, N. Y. Telephone 70 Correspondence and Inapection Invited. RUDOLPH 8S. FRIED, Principal

STANDISH MANOR A special school for girls requiring individ- ual instruction, care and attention. Limited to twenty-five. Address, Secretary Box 16. Hawirax, MAssAcHuseTTs. SCHOOL for EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN Every facility in a suburban home for the care and training of children who through mental dis-

ability are unable to attend public or private schools. Dept. of Domestic Science for older girls. Mollie A. Woods, Principal, Box 152, Roslyn Pa

ELM HILL A Private Home and School for Deficient Children and Youth. Skillful care. Invigorating oe Health, happiness, efficiency. 72nd year. | Addr George A. Brown, ; G. Percy Brown, M.D. Barre, Massachusetts

The Bancroft School For Mentally Subnormal Children One of the oldest and best schools of its kind in exis- tence. For catalog address Box 165, Haddonfield, N.J. E. A. Farrington, M.D. Jenzia Coulson Cooley. “Sound View School” For Backward Children. ’ Speech Specialist from Columbia University. Individual Instruction. 70 Prospect Street Port Chester, N. Y. ACERWOOD TUTORING SCHOOL Educates boys and girls who are normal in social life but require special attention in studies. Miss Devereux Box B, Devon, Penna. THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING SCHOOL An ideal private home-school for nervous, back- ward and mental defectives. No age limit. Phys- ical Culture. Manual Lay iy and all branches. Open year round. Terms per month and up. d MRS. August * BOLDT, Supts. 82 Fairview Avenue, a 1%, » We You can be quickly cured, if you STAMMER Send 10 cents in stamps for 288-page cloth-bound book on rete gtals <b _ ow 2 “Its Cause and Cure. _ cured myself after stammering for B. N. Bogue gue Bidg., 6563 N. ittinis Street. indlanapolis. THE HALLOWELL SCHOOL OF ADJUSTMENT A highly specialized private school for the train- ing and treatment of a limited number of selected cases of — or defective mental development requiring mental or physical adjustment. Expert medical consultants. For particulars address . C. Hallowell, Margate Pk, Atlantic City, N.J. THE HEDLEY SCHOOL Montessori, Kindergarten, Primary and Intermedi- ate to High School. Industrial Arts; Domestic Science; Gardening. Association with normal chil- dren, Resident physician. Mrs. J. R. Hedley, Prin- cipal, x B, Glenside, Pa. ae miles from Phila. )

A BACKWARD CHILD Should be placed in a school with special equipment and competent teachers trained to administer to his peculiar requirements. The selection of such a school is a difficult and delicate problem. Perhaps we can help you. Address your letter to Harper’s Bazar School Bureau.

Page 19

17

There is a School for your Boy on this Page Boys’ Schools | Boys’ Schools Boys’ Schools | Boys’ Schools | | MILITARY | MARION INSTITUTE

ACADEMY Lexington, Mo. Established 1880. A high grade preparatory school for boys of good char- acter. Capacity 400. Military instruction under U. S. Army officer and World War vet- erans. T. C. unit. Largest \ school gymnasium in Missouri Val- ley. 43 miles from Kansas City. Separate School for Small Boys For Catalog address COL. S. SELLERS, Supt. 1851 Washington Ave., Lexington, Mo.

300NVILLE, Mo. KEMPER MILITARY SCHOOL, 78th year opens Sept. Rated continuously as a Military School of the highest class by the U. S. War Department. High ee standards. Unusual manual training equipment. Catalog. Junior and Senior R. O. T. C. Cot. T. A. JOHNSTON, 752 Third Street

Wisconsin, Waukesha County, Delafield. St. John’s Military Academy ™® American Eminently fitted for training American boys. Thor- ough scholastic and military instruction. Situated on high, well-drained ground, in Waukesha County Lake Region. Catalog 15B.

Miami Military Institute Collegiate courses, preparation for Government Academies, High Colleges, Universities or Business.

Prep. Department. Military training unde | ae 4 Army Officers. Catalog. ORVAN GRAFF BROWN, President, Box 94, Germantown, Onis. GRAND RIVER INSTITUTE Founded 1831. Strictly high-grade, co-educa- tional, preparatory school. Exceptional equipment made possible by endowment. New dormitories, gymnasium and Strong courses in athletie field. music and oratory. E. W. HaMBLin, Principal, Box 4, AUSTINBURG, Ohio.

(1 hour from Chicago) Boys 100 feet above <4 ILLINOIS, Woodstock, Todd nary for sea, 74th year. Exclusively for younger boys (7 to 16). Right thinking developed through comradeship between teachers and ys. Vigilant watchfulness Summer Camp, Onekama, Mich. of personal habits. NOBLE HILL. Principal

LAKE FOREST ACADEMY For Boys. College Preparatory—Not a military in- stitute—Honor ideals. Aim distinctively educa- tional. Preparation for admission to any univer- sity. Swimming pool, all athletics. (1 hour north of Chicago.) John Wayne Richards, Headmaster, Box 141, Lake Forest, Ill

*¥: Culver Military Academy Located at center of population. Easily reached from everywhere. Famous Military system, superb array of buildings described in catalog. Apply immediately for 1921-22 The Secretary, Culver, Ind. tion of manly boys. Ath- letic sports. 60-acre campus. Prepares for college anc business life. Moderate rates. Lower School for boys from 11 to 14. Roger W. Swetland, Head- master, Box 12-S, Hightstown, N. J. THE PENNINGTON SCHOOL Prepares for College, Technical Schools or Busi- ness. Gymnasium. Strong faculty. Swimming bool, all athletics. Junior school for boys 9 to 13. Frank MacDanig., D.D., Headmaster, x 120, Pennington, N. J. WENONAH MILITARY ACADEMY 12 miles from Philadelphia. Prepares for college or U. S. A

For the all-around educa-

business. rmy Officer detailed. Special School for Juniors. Catalog. Dr. C. H. RENCE, President ; A. SNYDER, Supt. Mason CLAYTON Box Zz. 442, Wenonah, N.

RUTGERS PREP. A_ school for manly boys * seeking to make the most of college life. Preps for any college or tech. Teachers and coaches inspire right attitude toward Study and sport. Equipment new. 154th year. W. ?. KELLY, Hdm. New Brunswick, N. J,

Roosevelt Military Academy Perpetuates the vigorous ideals and robust Ameri- canism of Theodore Roosevelt. Strong outdoor life; Progressive curriculum. Fits boys for leadership. Unusual advisory board. Write for Catalog. West Englewood, N. J.

Kingsley School for Boys - miles from New York City in the New Jersey uills. For illustrated catalog address .C " Box H, Essex Fells, N. J.

FREEHOLD MILITARY SCHOOL M For 90 select young boys. Just enough of the ilitary training to inculcate habits of obedience, Promptness, orderliness and self reliance. Study oo play carefully supervised. One teacher to 10 ‘The school with the personal touch.’ Masor S M. Duncan, Box 216, Freehold, N. J. A MILITARY SCHOOL In the far West, in the South or in the East. ‘rper’s Bazar has investigated all. If in doubt write to the SCHOOL BUREAU for information, ys. CHARLE

The RAYMOND RIORDON SCHOOL for BOYS HIGHLAND, NEW YORK gq Broad in vision, exacting in execution, and genuine withal. @ Prepares boys for college and for life. @ Academic course follows outline prescribed by the Regents of New York State—under which this school is certified. q Applications are now be- ing — for the fall term of 1921 g Booklet will be sent on tl request. CASCADILLA College Preparatory School for Boys Some Vacancies at Mid-Year Thorough preparation for college or business life. Individual attention. Athletics. Gymnasium. Rec- reation building on Lake Cayuga. Navy outfit for the well-known school crew. Military drill. En- rollment 125. Healthfully located above Ithaca and Lake Cayuga. Summer School specializing in preparation for University Entrance Examinations. Write for catalogs. _ Cascadilla Schools, Box 14, Ithaca, New Yor A DAY SCHOOL Mothers who are not entirely satisfied with the schools their song are now attending should write to the Harper’s Bazar SCHOOL BUREAU for information about a school on the West Side where vacancies are still available.

The Clark School for Concentration 72d St. and West End Ave., New York City For Boys and Girls. Boarding and day pupils; prepares for any college. An intensive system of individual instruction. Enrollments may made now. A School Where Records Are Made. BOYS’ COUNTRY SCHOOL, Preston Park, Pa.

New York, Ossining-on-Hudson. Special St. John’s Military School $9°i2! tunities for quick college preparation. Parental disci- pline. Gymnasium, swimming pool. Athletic field. Manly sports encouraged. Junior Hall, a separate school oe under 13. Catalogue. v Ranney, A.M., Pd.D., Principal.

THE STONE SCHOOL, Cornwall-On-Hudson, N. Y. Healthful and invigorating location. Five miles from West Point. Boys 9 to 19. Prepares for college or business. One teacher to 6 boys. All — under supervision. Swimming pool. Catalog. LVAN E. DUERR, Headmaster, Box 31 Kyle School

for 50 Loys, 8 to 16. Beau- tiful location, 22 miles from New York. 31st year. First prize winner com- petitive military drill = armory, N. Fine athletic field—outdoor gym. ‘‘Your school looks so homelike’’—visitors’ capression, Summer camp in the Catskills. Dr. Pav KYL. New York, Irvington-on-Hudson, Box B. MOUNT PLEASANT SCHOOLS For over one hundred years a refined school home for boys of all ages. Practical military training with fleld work. College and_ business preparation. Physical training and athletic sports. Address CHARLES FREDERICK BRUSIE, P. O. Box 523, Ossining-on-the-Hudson, N. Y¥

STAMFORD MILITARY ACADEMY. Thorough scholastic and military training fostering the in- tellectual, physical, and moral needs of developing boys. Personal instruction. Small Classes. Manly sports encouraged. Extensive equipment. Ideally located at Lage overlooking the Hudson. Walter D. Gerken, A.M., Prin., Ossining, N. Y. ST. PAUL’S A Boarding School for Boys.

40 minutes from

New York. For catalogue address Water R. Manso, Headmaster, * 160 Stewart Ave., Garden City, L. I AWLING $8885 FOR BOYS | - Ad " . ABBOTT THE ARMY AND NAVY COLLEGE One of the Distinctive Schools of America Designated by War Department ‘‘Honor School 1920.” College faculty of experienced teac oars military staff from the Army and U, 8S, Naval Academy. Superb equipment. Netional pa- tronage. Complete preparatory courses, Junior College offering first two years of college work under ideal conditions of supervision and personal attention. Unlimited private tutoring for every cadet without extra charge. ARMY AND NAVY DEPARTMENT Offering coaching and college courses for An- napolis and West Point; special courses for competitive examinations and for prospective Unsurpassed record of successes.

somata. pas he i fornia. rs ’ “4 -elver r ession rel ions now being receivec or se ROBERT A. GIBBS For catalogue and information, address own — pot. w.L. aint gy Los Angeles, California PAGE MILITARY ACADEMY A Big School for Little Boys Military life appeals to youngsters—at Page it is combined with work and Play that develop initiative and self-reliance, The grow- ing mind is guided by wise men and women who thor- oughly understand boys. Every advantage of climate and location. Large mod- ern buildings; seven acre campus. Let our catalog tell you all about us. Boys row big and owrene in Cal

TOME SCHOOL National Boarding School for Boys RATE $1000 PORT DEPOSIT MARYLAND

STAUNTON MILITARY ACADEMY Largest private academy in the East. Boys from 10 to 20 years old prepared for the Universities. Government Academies or Business. ee uth eas swimming pool and athletic park. New $275,000 barracks. Charges ‘or catalogue address Col. Thos. H. Russell, B.S., Pres. Staunton, Va.

RANDOLPH-MACON ACADEMY (MILITARY) A Branch of the Randolph-Macon System. In the Valley of Virginia. Equipment cost $100,000. Prepares for College or Scientific Schools. MILI- 'ARY TRAINING Gymnasium and ‘athletics. — Address Chas. L, Melton, A.M., Principal, Box 427, Front Royal, Va. WEAVER SCHOOL HAPPY DAYS FOR BOYS ome, CG! a Half to rp all Years the Country at New MISS HELEN M. WEAVER, Head tstetrese West Main Road, Newport, R. 1. MILFORD A College Preparatory School. Formerly the Rosenbaum School. Milford, Conn. Nine miles from New Haven on the main line to New York. The needs of each pooy are analyzed and met. 1 B. , Director.

MASSEE COUNTRY SCHOOL Shippan Point, Stamford, Conn 53 minutes from New York City—on oe Island Sound. A college preparatory for vy: Junior Department for boys 7 years up. Individual at- tention. 16 acres. New equipment. Box 700, Stamford, Conn. Telephone Stamford 211

WORCESTER ACABENM'T 250 Boys Teachers Strictly preparatory for college * engineering school. Junior School for young boys. For cata- log dress the Registrar, D. Church, M.A. Samuel F. Holmes, M.A., Principal. Worcester, ass.

WILLISTON—#oxGovs FOR BOYS Preparatory for college or scientific school. Directed work and play. Junior School for boys from 10 to 14, A distinct school in its own building. Address ARCHIBALD V. GALBRAITH, Principal Box H Ea \sthampton, Mass. DEERFIELD ACADEMY For the wholesome development of the boy’s in- dividuality. Modern equipment, college prepara- tory and special courses. All athletics. Endowed. Send for views and year book. Address 9 Albany | Road, Deerfield, Mass. POWDER POINT SCHOOL Will understand your boy and teach him to under- stand himself. RALPH K. BEARCE, A.M., Headmaster 54 King Caesar Road Duxbury, Mass.

HOLDERNESS SCHOOL for BOYS Five buildings, 20 acres. Prepares for Colleges and Technical Sci . Ranks with highest grade schools of New England, yet by reason of endow-,

Palo Alto Military Academy Junior Military Academy. Boys from 6 to 15 only; no high school. Homelike, but w‘th thoro military discipline. Non-sectarian. In session winter and SUmNSOL. RICHARD P. KELLY. P. 0. Box H fo Alto, SB siltornia THE SEALE ACADEMY (Military) In this school are combined the spirit of the West and the thoroughness of the East. Grammar and High School. Fifteen-acre Campus. Climate cool and orang. Near Stanford University. RENVILLE C., EMERY, Headmaster. CALIFORNIA, "Palo Hitchcock Military Academy San Rafael, California Spring semester opened January 23, necessary. For illus-

43rd _ year. 1921, Early registration trated catalog address REX H. SHERER, President, San Rafael

San Diego Army and Navy Academy College preparatory. Offers best in academic and military instruction. Fully accredited. Chris- tian character training emphasized. Army detail. Outdoor sports entire year. Located near ocean Summer session July Ist to Sept.

CaLiF., Pacifie Beach. Capt. THos. A. Davis, Pres. Bethlehem Preparatory School °'"\:- 1600 boys prepared for leading universities in hi

years Extensive grounds. Gymnasium, swimming pool, athletic fields. Summer session. Separate Junior School new building. Joun H. TuGcey, M.A., Headmaster NASARS US 9 peuSTARY ACADEM Y 0, Naz unded 1743 A 44 ac my —; =. hos Collene preparatory and business courses. Senior, Intermediate and Junior Departments. Vigorous athletic and mili- tary life. Address the Rev. A. D. Thaeler, D.D Principal. HARRISBURG ACADEMY Senior and Junior departments. Modern, individ- ual instruction in college preparatory and general courses. New fireproof buildings with large suuny rooms. Cottage dormitory system. Athletic fleld. Moderate _ rates. THUR E. BROWN, Head- master, Box B, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. BELLEFONTE ACADEM Y In foothills

Prepares boys for college or business. of Alleghenies. 11 teachers. All athletics. Gym nasium. Swimming pool. Limited to 100. Cata- B. ughes, A.M., Headmaster, log. James Bellefonte, Pa. SWARTHMORE PREPARATORY Prepares boys for college or life work. Small classes. Junior Dept. For catalog address W. P. TOMLINSON, M.A Swarthmore, Pa.

Box 124 KISKIMINETAS SCHOOL for Boys Prepares for college or technical schools. High, healthful location. Faculty of experts, individual attention through Preceptorial System. All indoor and outdoor sports under competent instructors. Gymnasium with swimming pool. Address Dr. W. Wilson, Jr., President, Box 808, Saltsburg, Pa. ST. LUKE’S SCHOOL Wayne (Main Line P. R. R.), Pa. Healthful location, homelike buildings. Mental and physical instruction, high moral influence. Prepares for college or business. CHARLES HENRY STROUT, A.M., Headmaster

ment the tuition is moderate. eo Bad —. All nee, sports. 42nd y Rev. Lorin Webster, L.H.D., Rector, Plymouth, N.H.

FARMINGTON, MAINE SCHOOL for Boys Rate $1200. Mid-Winter term opens January 5th Emphasizes health, happiness, achievement. atalog on request.

Dr. Frederick L. Gamage, H Pawling New York PTON SCHOOL Evapaceiety Sc ool for pone 6 to 14. Careful Small classes. training. Board BARRETT. Headmaster, “cane N. Y. RIVERSIDE {iit grade. ary tiles north of Atlanta, in Blue Ridge foothills. Per- sonal supervision. Special ._e— for West Point and Annapolis. R. Individual instr all_ athletics. For c id: RIVERSIDE, Box H, Gainesville, Georgia

TENNESSEE MILITARY INSTITUTE

School with national patronage. Happiest and finest boys _in the lan business. Brick buildings. Full equipment. Flat rate $650 covers all expenses. For catalog address T. Box 82, Sweetwater, Tenn. Prepares for college or |

ROXBURY, A School for the Individual Classes limited to not more than five pupils. Work is mapped out exactly to prepare boy to enter col- lege in given time. Very few fail- ures. Highly paid masters—one to each five boys. Hard work and con- | centration required. Athletic and outdoor sports under direction of ex- pert coaches. Limited to 95 boys, over 14. Boys enter whenever va- ecancies occur. Write for catalogue. Roxbury School, Inc., Cheshire, Conn. W. L. Ferris, A. B., Headmaster

NEW ENGLAND The schools in New England have earned a place of leadership in educational matters. You will find listed on this page, announcements of many of the most prominent. RUMSEY HALL Cornwall, Connecticut A Schoo: for boys under 15. arly rate $1200 ts SANFORD. "Principal LOUIS H. SCHUTTE, M.A., Headmaster EASTFORD The School for a Boy Molding boys into men who think and do, by developing mind, morals and body in the most natural a Preparation for college or vocation: Cata Director Pomfret, Conn.

talog Stan ey ‘K elley,

RIGGS SCHOOL for BOYS High School, Agricultural and College Preparatory Courses. 175 acre farm, fully equipped. Out- door sports. Send for booklet. F. B. RIGGS, Headmaster, Lakeville, Conn.

Page 20

If in doubt about a school; write Harper’s Bazar

_Southern Schools Professional Schools —— , A Vocation in the Hand is beessomennsemmeeinnre sco 8 ei Worth Two in the Catalogue

—— : : ces

WARI )- Bie ONT Russian School of ce Geeks ane LM Women | What can you do,—sketch? write? dance? design? sing? DANCING play? There are hundreds of paths open to the women of ates Cle | RR EAERYATIONS for the 1931-39 coors: & today,—paths which lead not only to financial security, but Interpretative, shouk 9 made as soon. as possidie Ww ational an«

to a broader, more interesting life. Which path is yours? Late winter and early spring months are the very best time insure entrance Courses to meet individual needs of students covering 4 years prepara tory and 2 years college work Strong Music Ball Room Dancing Children’s Courses a Specialty

7 : . . s . 7 . os « . . . . “ . ” . + 2 . 7 . a .s . . . . . | and Art Departments. Also Literature, Ex to start a course at any of the splendid vocational schools. - Baby Work : [-, 3 gf > tt oe Find your especial forte now, and put in two or three of > paywiasses : et ee Cee oes ts Oe See oe the most interesting and delightful months you have ever ° fae : | an oun y ) i at ntry Clu spent. : Write for Booklet V : | References Booklets on request. Address 1 th , s s WARD-BELMONT If you do not find here the school that meets your specia © The following Text Books have been ac- © f “LMO! mn requirements, let us help you. Address your letter person- s cepted by America as indispensable to ® Belmont Heights Box Y, Nashville, Tenn. ally to $ students of the Art: “Baby Work”; » * “Nature Dancing” & “Advanced Nature ? = ~~ At seasonable periods Gung the qchont year anteate = gee Veen address Box H, Basic, Va. Fontainebleau, the Chateau District, the battlefields, Switzerland, the Riviera, . 9 . ‘init and other interesting places and scenes. The Fisk Teachers Agencies : Reservations must be made on or before March 1. offer unparalleled service. Our extensive experience Founded . P ° . and e sts se such servic ible. Near HOLLINS COLLEGE ror hgeryet isis For full information, address every private. school in “America "has employed Standard Colle Cc ses, B.A ar .M. Ad- . - a teachers on our recommendats mission. by certifieate er examination. Degree Director, KING-SMITH STUDIO - SCHOOL NEW YORK OFFICE, 225 FIFTH AVENUE accepted for graduate work by leading universities. 1712 New Hampshire Avenue Washington, D. C. 280 students, Miss Matty L, Cocks, President. Box 335, Hollins, Va. . ; ee ee ee THE CLARK TEACHERS AGENCY

Supplies teachers from discriminating fam- CHEVY CHASE SCHOOL ilie spresentative sc , A school for the girl of today and tomorrow. Courses: ilies to representative schools. Uf you are Preparatory; two-year advanced for high school | 4esirous of entering this profession or chang- graduates; special. Unrivalled location at the na-| ing your position write STUART HALL, Staunton, Virginia— | Episcopal school for girls—Seventy-seventh Ses- NATIONALPARK SEMINARY

sion Rich in traditions of the past; alive to the : v eae needs of the present. Thorough college prepara- tional capital. For catalog, address CHevy Cuase| E. L. Gregg, Flatiron Building, New York tion Outdoor — sports. Address Mrs. H Washington, D. C., Suburbs ScHooL, Box B, FrepERIC ERNEST FARRINGTON, Hits, A.B., (formerly Principal of Sweet Briar Ph.D., Headmaster, Washington, D, C.

JAMES E, AMENT, Ph.D., LLD., Pres. For Young Women. Presents the funda- mentals of a college education in a two year diploma course. Music, Art, Expres- sion, Domestic Science and other vocational courses. Athletics, Gymnasium, swimming pool, riding. Thirty-two buildings. Sixty- tive acre campus Cultured environment, healthy surroundings, democratic ideals, An early enrollment is urged. Catalog. Address Registrar, Box 170, Forest Glen, bo me THE HARRIETTE MELISSA MILLS KINDERGARTEN -PRIMARY TRAINING SCHOOL AFFILIATED WITH NEW YORK UNIVERSITY uns on a Residence for students. Graduates placed in ex- cellent positions. Students admitted February lst. ‘. School for Girls. Established 1892. | Address Miss Harriette Melissa Mills, Prin., » Mine &. Mrs. Beverley R. Mason, Principal | N. Y- Univ. Bldg., Washington Square, N. Y. City. 1924 Florida Ave.,Washington,D.C.

Academy), Box H LEWISBURG SEMINARY for GIRLS In the Mountains near White Sulphur Springs, main line C. & O. R. R. 2300 ft. Altitude. College preparatory Two years’ graduate work. Music, Art, Home Economics and Expression. Terms $400. Catalog on request. Box 82, Lewisburg, W. Va.

The ALBERTS —_——— of EXPRESSION : , nae 1114 Carnegie Hal « Y¥. Ci Fairmont £7, on 2 oe. -~ Apprentice work for Plays, Pantomimes and Pic- National Capital. Regular and special courses; Mu- | tures. Composing and Performing them. Literature, sie, Art, Expression, Domestic Arts and Sciences. | 1»terpretation and Elocution. Lectures, Class and Advanced courses for High Schoo] graduates. Su- | Individual Instruction. Connected with Stuart pervised athletics. Individual care. Address Walker’s Companies and Young People’s Theatre. MR. AND Mrs. ARTHUR RAMSEY. District orf CoLUMBIA, Washington.

ST. MARY’S, An Episcopal School for Girls Founded 1842. Full College preparation and two years advance work Music, Art, Elocution, Do- mestic Science and Business. 14 Modern Buildings, 25-acre Campus in mild Southern Climate. Mod- erate rates. Address Rev. Warren W. Way, Rec- tor, Raleigh, N. C,

BYRON W. KINGS SCHOOL OF ORATORY Elocution and Speech Arts. New Building and COLONIAL SCHOOL for girls. Boarding and day | Dormitory. Courses for Teachers, Lecturers, Ly-

BRENAL COLLEGE CORERVATORY ; High School and College courses. Music, Art, Ex- coum and Chautauqua Work. Speech defects. me otec ‘or: Select patronage ¢ States; pleasan scat " - pression, Secretarial. Athletics. Outdoor sports. | mering, Oss 0 oice, Sore roat positive social life; location foothills Blue Ridge Mts. A SCHOOL IN WASHINC TON Modern buildings. Beautiful locati Nati 1 | cured. Largest School of Speech Arts in America. North of Atlanta Standard A. B. course; special , = Ms o Capital. "inaugural year. Wail sodas bane and Send for prospectus. Mt. Oliver, Pittsburgh, Pa. advantages in music, oratory, art, domestic science, | Now is the time to select your school for the! .jcial life. References required. Catalog. Ad- physical culture. New gymnasium, swimming pool. | Fall of 1921. Applications are now being con-| Gress Charlotte Crittenden Everett, Principal, 1533 Catalog and iliustrated book. ; ‘ sidered by these Washington Schools. Eighteenth Street. NEW YORK SCHOOL OF EXPRESSION Address BreNav, Box H, Gainesville, Ga. Chartered by the Regents of the University of the State of — York. Fall Term opens October ne. > * Courses for advanced students and beginners—Elo- A Ss YW 2. E Y H A L L Professional Schools Professional Schools cution, Public Speaking, Drama, Pantomime— Speech defects cured. Y. M. C.' A. Blidg., 318 girls’ school qierins broad variety ,of courses - - | W. 57th St., New York City. Colles preparation for best women’ colleges | ~ lern Sasiaenet. Swimming pool. , Northern P h y § 1 Cc a l E d u Cc a t 1 0 n advantages Catalogue. MaryVardrine McBee, M. A., Principal, Charleston, S.C. The bey to profession of physical Gyeates, a SCHOOL ALVIENE SCHOOL OF ACTING rounc supervisor. o year normal course for fligh Se bool graduates Includes athletics, aesthetic OF ARTS Aeotendc, _Sectet. Founded 1894 FLORIDA and folk dancing, games. Swimming pool. Woman’s eotate ate Dramatic Art DGten Sianeli: Sieatie Gebead dormitory. Term opens February Ist. CHARLES HENRY KEYES, Ph.D., Pres. jeuae ge — ad . rata on r y -Pla Grammar and college preparation courses, ? AMERICAN PHYSICAL A woman’s college offering programs heatre and Stock ioe “Arts Outdoor classes. Ocean bathing and golf all year. E EDUCATIO) in General Studies, Fine and Applied Art Co. afford New an ance Miss JuLia FIttMore Harris COLLEG of IN “ramos. vty a ace win York appearances. 804 Second §%. 8. E Miami, Florida Accredited Home Economics, Music, Physical Edu- tal t cation, and Secretarial Science, all lead- THOMAS I a RWIN, + eS a Address Dept. H2, 4200 Grand eatheun 4 Chicago ing to the B.S. degree. Dormitory ac- by ye eer Maryland College for Women ry ; commodations for 300 students. For 43 West 72nd Street, New York or sica -atalogue 2g i ames Coes Pyeparatory; College; Domestic The Sargent School enenion catalogue address ent a Science; Music; Expression. Advantages: 10 miles Pesath ii + from Baltimore; Fireproof buildings; Strong fac- Established 1881 THE SECRETARY | ulty; 67 years’ history. Catalogue. es Address tor booklet Box G, Saratoga Springs, N. Y. - Address Box B, LUTHERVILLE, MARYLAND Dr. D. A. SARGENT Cambridge, Mass. American Academy | THE ROBERTS-BEACH SCHOOL irHacA CONSERVATORY of MUSIC of Limited number of girls, individual instruction Special eee Se wae lame. ae - RUSSELL SAGE COLLEGE D ti A t — oeuwene Geman © preparation Comcert or educational wor instruments founded by Mrs. Russell Sage in connection with Special courses, college faculties. “Out preparation vocal, dramatic art, ete. Graduates ailing pishest Emma Willard School. 4 Seheet of prestiedt, Aste. ramatic rts ten acre estate ar Baltimore Schol: arships. places avallanie in 2 merica. * g. 13 # Secretaria ork, ouseho nomics an ndus- FOUNDED IN 1884 guished faculty. Address The Registrar, 13 De/| trial Arts. B.A. and B.S. Degrees. Address Sec- Address Box 100, Catonsville, Md. Witt Park, Ithaca, N. Y. _| retary. “Russeiu Sack Couvece, Troy, N. Y. 3 —— — capaacenmncmabanmatttia President 7 The GIRLS LATIN SCHOOL [NEW YORK SCHOOL OF MUSIC)|| pice er ae : d : Training in | 32nd year. College Preparatory and Academic. matic an Faculty of College trained Christian og Sela A 1H t America. > Connected with Charles did cultural advantages. Beautiful home. Catalog. rea jome for | ND AR I Ss Pupils Frohman’s Empire Theatre and Com- | MISS WILMOT, A.B., Headmistress Music Students May Enter Any Day panies. For information apply to Baltimore, , Md. 1225 St. Paul Street a ALES peace STERNER. yl " THE SECRETARY verside Drive (Corner 87th Street) ew Yor SOU THERN SCHOOLS | | New York’s modern, up-to-date Music School. All Branches of Music and the Arts taught from 175 C ie Hall | | the beginning to the Se oxsietie — by a, distinguished nee ne tasted 2 arnegie a On this p wre s ‘Tuition, Boar ractising, etc. Send for boo seit Rechasie, * eon — fed Ge 5 mo reg l ys Europe’s and America’s Most Eminent Teachers School Dormitories—Proper Chaperonage| | NEW YORK se N. Y. Winter term. Make your selection now Mehlin piano used exclusively

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19 Train for a profession in one of these schools. Professional Schools | Professional Schools Professional Schools Professional Schools ho _ee_ ee Bee Graining for Authorship How towrite, what to write, and where to sell. Cultivate your mind. Devewp your literary gifts. Master the art of self-expression. Make your spare time profitable; Turn your ideas into dollars) Courses in Short-Story Writ- ing, Versification, Journalism, Play Writing, Photoplay Writ- ing, ete.. taught personally by ‘ r. J. Berg Esenwein, for Dr.Esenweim many years editor of Lippin cott’s Magazine, and a staff of literary experts. onstruc- Frank, honest, helpful advice. tive criticism, Real teaching. One pupil has received over $5,000 for stories and articles written mostly in spare time---*‘play work,"’ he calls it. Another pupil received over $1,000 before complet- ing her first course. Another, a busy wife and mother, is averaging over $75 a week from photoplay writing aione. There is no other institution or agency doing so much for writers, young or old. The universities recognize this, for over 100 members of the English faculties of higher institutions are studying in our Literary Department. The editors recognize it, for they are tly di our courses, We publish The Writer’s Library, 13 vol- umes; descriptive booklet free. Je also publish The Writer’s Monthly, the leading magazine for literary workers; sample copy 20 cents, annual subscription $2.00. Be- sides our teaching service, we offer a manuscript criticism service. 150-page Illustrated catalogue free Please Address The Home Correspondence School Dept. 19 Springfield, Mass. Established 1897 - Incorporated 1904 cated; one hour’s ride from New nurses’ residence. Address SUPERINTENDENT OF TRAINING SCHOOL, Port Chester, New York THIS MIGHT HAVE] BEEN YOU | Fashion Academy: | want you to know how | | | I thankful I am, not only for my training in Costume De- sign but also for the inspira- tion I received from Fashion Academy teachers. I am now making original designs for the trade. Last month I designed ten cos- tumes for Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile). I have been mak- ing between $100 and $125 per week working freelance. And this, only three months after my graduation from Fashion Academy. I shall always recommend your school. Mrs. A, C. Kleist. The Fashion Academy Book- let, sent FREE upon request, contains letters from many other graduates who report amazing success as_ profes- Special sional designers. No talent necessary. method of instruction—three to four months course. Marvelously simple home-study lessons, Write for Free Booklet 2 FASHION ACADEM Y, Inc. 103 E. 57th St., New York City METROPOLITAN ART SCHOOL 58 W. 57th Street, New York MODERN COLOR For Portrait, Landscape, Poster, Stage Lighting and Designing. Costume and Interior Design. Special Home Study Course INTERIOR DECORATION Courses by mail for amateur and professional. Splendid opportunity to train for paying profession. Send for catalog New York Schoo! of Interior Decoration 101 Park Avenue, New York City Miss Conklin’s SECRETARIAL SCHOOL Twenty-first Year 37 WEST 39TH STREET NEW YORK | SECRETARIAL TRAINING for Educated Women 101 Park Avenue, New York City 25 Huntington Avenue, Boston, Mass. DRESS DESIGN The original course by CARL WERNTZ Explains the principles of correct line and color. You dress more smartly for tess money. A proginent protession that pays anywhere. Address Studio 802 ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS 81 East Madison St. Chicago, Ill. ~S © Established 18 years y COSTUME ANO MILLINERY DESIGN OF Luxe The Florence Wilde Studio of Illustration week. 1. For advanced students who wish to do higher illus- tration. 2. F commercial illustration. 3 Evening life class for wom- en. Mrs. Wilde was formerly of Pratt Institute. School continues through the Summe: Further information \ P. CLEMENT BROWN Capitalize your ability to Originate by learning quickly and easily to De- willbe mailed upon request. AND PARIS SUM- NEW YO MER SESSIONS SCHOOL OF FINE AND APPLIED ART Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. Inquiries requested. For professional workers and practical teachers. Address Secretary, 2239 Broadway, New York | sign, cut and make Exclusive models. This complete French method of in- struction includes pattern making from sketches, modeling and draping; fab- rics, their weights, colors and usage. No previous training necessary. Course 3to4 months. Write for booklet HB. Studio and by Mail Courses BROWN’S SALON STUDIOS SCHOOL OF maa FINE ARTS, CRAFTS AND DECORATIVE DESIGN The school offers academic work in con- junction with the courses in Art, For circular address Miss KATHERINE B. CHILD, Director Room 409, 126 Massachusetts Ave., Boston, Mass. | 620 Fifth Avenue Fairmont Hotel New York City San Francisco Open All Year Summer Course DESIGNING and MILLINERY Pressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- sale, retail or home use. Day and evening classes, Call or write for particulars. McDowell Dress- making and Millinery Schools. Estab. 1876. Char- tered under Regents. 25 West 35th St., N. Y. KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL OF PHYSICAL EDUCATION FOR WOMEN Two Year course prepares Teachers, Physical Directors and Recreation Workers. Un- precedented demands for teachers. Liberal salaries i Address Colum- P Physical Education, 3358 | of Costume Design Accredited. paid. Resident Halls maintained. bia Normal School of i South Michigan Bivd., Chicago. Residence Courses By Mail e . **The reliable school of the West—’* Parisian Methods; Designing; Pattern Making; Finlehin : Model Drapieg. etc. r business, teaching SCHOOL @ or home use. Studio 577-B Geary St., San Francisco, Cal. M . steps right TheO-G D’Arc An advance O-G Spring fashion of superb work- manship—and ultra-fashionable to the superla- tive degree! May be had with patent vamps and gray suede inlay as illustrated, also in tan calfskin and fawn suede inlay —or‘all-over gray suede. Fourteen Dollars The O-G D’Arc sent by post—charges prepaid (A complete range of sizes now available) "CONNOR & GOLDBER Famed for Fashionable Footwear since 1903 SEVEN O-G STORES IN CHICAGO Address for Out-of-Town Orders: REPUBLIC BUILDING, CHICAGO the correct strap pump for street wear into favor! MS t “93405 ote eee ee ee s E oF ee : re et oe eee Dire AL bee oe Ek REED a €;"« - GOLFLEX Dresses of Worsted Jersey INDISPENSABLE IN ANY CLIMATE ELIGHTFULLY warm to snuggleintoonazeromorn- ing in the North—equally cool andcomfortable fora morning’s sport in the South. Made from a special quality of worsted jersey, that never loses its distinctive lines, and strictly man-tailored in styles of patrician simplicity. At all good stores everywhere— moderately priced. Originated and Sold at Wholesale Only by WILKINS & ADLER 12 East 26th Street * New York

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20 HARPER’S BAZAR HERE’S such obvious quality to its fabric, such evident “‘mastery of his medium”’ revealed by the tailor’s work, you have a definite pleasure every time you slip into one of these cleverly designed Kenyon Coats—backed by a half-century’s experience in making fine clothing. WOMAN’S TOP COAT—proclaim- ing a versatile readiness for walking, skiing, driving or riding—is distin- guished by perfectly tailored raglan shoulders, and deep collar and lapels. Made of “‘out-doorish” Kencheviots. MAN’S TOP COAT—a conservative beltless model—is made of indefinite herringbone cheviot indouble-breasted style. Durable silk yoke and sleeve linings make it slip on easily. C. KENYON CoO., INC. sth Ave. Bldg., New York 223 Jackson Blud., Chicago efor Sports Coats Exclusive Fabrics, Expertly Tailored You Will Wear Your KENYON TOP COAT With Such Assurance! Kenyon Coats are on sale at the best dealers everywhere throughout the United States and Canada. Write for style cards and the name of local merchant. Make sure of Kenyon style, Kenyon tailoring and Kenyon long-wear fabrics, by the label— “C. Kenyon Co. Makers, N. Y.”

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for FEBRUARY 1921 SAGO ce Pho, The Charm of Mystery HY is it that the mirage of the desert horizon is so infinitely more fascinating to a travel- worn spectator than the most enchanting view of an actual Venice or Campagna; why is it that the tale of ghost, banshee or criminal stealth has a certain compelling quality which the cleverest product of the realist’s pen cannot pretend to rival; why is it that a heavily veiled woman at a smart gath- ering eventually draws every eye from the most famous beauty if her loveli- ness be openly framed by a becoming chapeau ? But why put these queries to an in- telligent reader? The answer is plain: mystery hath charms for the sophisti- cated as for the savage mind, and be he Hottentot, Bedouin or United States- ian, every man loves above all things— the unexplained. Time was’ when that mystery of mys- teries, lovely woman, sustained her reputation for unexplainability by means of her mercurial moods and nimble wit; the raison d’etre of her sar- torial lure was too apparent to require bouffant skirt draperies ?—elastics and reeds and buckram. Her elaborate coiffure?—puffs, waves and cushions. 3ut now, in this age of triumphant feminism, the subtler sex has added to its quiver a potent arrow—a certain elusively attractive mystery of attire. And this charm of mystery must de- pend very largely upon her corset. Cor- sets she must have. But—corsets she mustn’t show. A _ difficult problem? Certainly. But it can be done. “How has the couturier triumphed!” we exclaim. He has triumphed indeed, and he has done so through wisdom as well as through art, for in calling to his aid the expert corsetiére he has suc- ceeded in eliminating those ugly ridges and obvious bonings which once pro- claimed aloud through the most care- fully constructed gown that its wearer was compactly corseted beneath. The admiring world admires and wonders on, but the perfectly turned- out woman and the expert couturier know the reason why; it is the perfect- ly fitting front-lacing corset, with in- dividual models for every type of fig- ure, which may be purchased at all the leading department stores— comment. Her modish figure ?—whale bone and steel, reaching from arm socket to a point below the hip. Her ) GOSSARD a = The average woman, if she would but swathe A lightly boned corset with a flexible elastic her figure in a certain cleverly cut bandeau, top forms an absolutely perfect foundation ~ she could achieve both grace and ease. for draped frocks of soft fabric.

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bo bo Caruso immortalized A vast heritage of arts and literature has been bequeathed to the world by the passing centuries, but it remained for the Victrola to perform a similar service for music. It has bridged the oblivion into which both singer and musician passed. The voice of Jenny Lind is forever stilled, but that of Caruso will live through all the ages. The greatest artists of the present generation have recorded their art for the Victrola, and so established the enduring evidence of their greatness. There are Victrolas from $25 to $1500. New Victor Records on sale at all dealers on the Ist of ctrola REG. U.S. PAT. OFF. Victor Talking Machine Co. Camden, New Jersey HARPER’S BAZAR Pp nynpiated seek Me ga Per? %; an 2 SO Os Seat i seh REG. U.S. PAT OFF This trademark and the trademarked word “Victrola” identify all our products. Look under the lid! Look on the label! VICTOR TALKING MACHINE CO. Camden, N. J.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 ERTE’S Winter is white, like the spotless snow of the mountains. is thoughtful and beautiful like the peaks which tower above the valleys and reflect, in their purity, the radiance of the approaching Sun. description

WINTER of this month’s cover, translated from She that troubles them, and 23 (Oy © ay < ODE é i NOI) (ar HOES ao POY the French in their fancy the falling snow takes the shapes and silhouettes of the new fashions. It is Winter, beautiful and sparkling, covered with the snow of her imagination who, from the flying flakes, creates new and charming shapes, capable of adorning fair women. And as out of a mass of snowflakes, white and uniform, fancy sees varied shapes, thus in life women who attire themselves each Winter with the same furs, always find new and surprising designs. The snow falls in white flakes which assume unusual and un- expected forms. These shapes which seem to us so extraordinary are only the products of our imaginations; at the height of Winter, what are women thinking of? It is the eternal question of clothes

HARPER’S BAZAR for FEBRUARY, Volume LVI. OU are the next vic- tim,” whispered our host, as he pointed ominously to the dim- lighted library at the end of the long hall. We smiled with faint cynicism and, slightly bored, we followed the soft-carpeted trail to the com- fortable lair of the spiritist. After- dinner spirit readings are the or- der of the day and one obeys the well-meaning host, even at the cost of dignity. Hosts will be hosts, and a guest must humor them if he wishés to stand well up on the invitation lists. MADAME Zenora did not look 4¥4 up as we entered, but gently passing her slender white fingers across her brow she muttered, “You are—you are—you are far away—far away. I see you walk- ing along the beautiful Bois, surrounded by smartly gowned women. You look at them criti- cally. You note every detail of their costumes in a little book. Wait—wait. You are in a great studio; the studio of a creator of hats and frocks, of afternoon gowns and of evening gowns. You are speaking a strange tongue. .. . . Now I see you at the theatre, oh, the splendor of the scene, oh, the glamor of the lights, the sparkle of jewels and perfumed flesh; what a scene; it is strange to me, all strange You are seated among palms, foun- tains are tinkling, an orchestra is playing. ... . You are pacing the marble floor of a great gallery, canvases are upon the walls..... You are a painter... .. POMS x. 0 6 You are a writer..... US a es Who are you?” Madame looked up with a startled expression in her dark eyes. “Par- don me, what was I saying? I was in a tranc Please sit down and let me hold your wa I may harmonize your vibrations.” Harper’s Bazar is published monthly by th Ray Long, vice-president; W. G. Langdon, secr $6.00. 1, $6.00. In foreign cou scriptior “pired itsis best to renew it tre sent | in Copyright, 1921, by International Magazine Company (Harper’s Bazar) NEXT MONTH HARPER’S BAZAR for MARCH, 1921 THERE WILL BE A Full Page Drawing from Drian Four Full Pages of Drawings from Erté Three Full Pages of Drawings from Steinmetz Two Full Pages of Models from Lucile Two Unusual Pages from Tappé And Pages and Pages and Pages of New Models from Paris and New York THERE WILL BE A Story by W. L. George A New Serial by I. A. R. Wylie A Story by Mildred Cram A Story by G. K. Chesterton George Agnew Chamberlain,. and Articles by Mrs. T. Suffern Tailer and Mrs. Palma Wayne THERE WILL BE Pages of Photographic Portraits of Well Known Women An Article on Collecting Photographic Studies of a Beautiful Home An Article on Certain Unusual Canvases Although it is a good watch, at least our best, there seemed no escape and we passed it to Ma- dame with guestlike simplicity. Madame fingered it. Evidently it was to her liking, for she smiled a wan smile, closed her dark eyes, gave a startled little shiver and continued, “Yes, yes (caressingly ), you are thinking of—of..... France i ae Every day you get letters, cables, pictures, sketches from Paris... .. Am I not right? .... Your plans are unique (we blushed, but could not speak for our skepticism had turned to warming pleasure)—wunigue! You think of beautiful things constantly. .... What is this? huge presses, whirling wheels, vast sheets 1921 Number 2 of paper are flashing over the presses. They are splotched with colors, with black on the white. They come to you in smaller sheets. They are covered with fascinating designs, with interest- ing snatches of type. You scru- tinize them carefully. .... It is Mara... - “March!” we cried. Our interruption was fatal to the trance. Madame started; we saved our watch with a quick catch. = ARCH,” she looked at us in wide-eyed wonder. “March where ?” “Nowhere!” we answered in sharp anger, for our spirit read- ing had pleased us more than we cared to admit and we were pro- voked at its sudden conclusion. “March issue, thank you, good evening.” “One moment” (Madame up- held her white hand high). “One moment; March issue. Yes, I have the key now. You are an editor....am I right?... yes, yes. March issue around you swirl symbols of good luck ....a Persian cat sits on your left shoulder; she purrs, she purrs; all is well. The March issue of your maga- zine will contain many pages of great charm. In it will appear three enthralling short stories, yes, and a wonderful array of fashion-plates, some from Paris, some from New York; articles, too, yes, and prophetic pictures, many, many. .... I predict success, good fortune, the great cat purrs It could be no other! It must It must be Harper’s Bazar.” As we joined the gay gossip of the studio we marveled at the phenomenon of spirit control and quietly sought a secluded corner by the crackling fire to stroke metaphorically our phantom cat and ponder the somber mysteries of life.” HM. B. S. tional Magazine Company, William Randolph Hearst, president; Joseph A. Moore, vice-president and treasurer; 9 West 40th Street, New York City. Single Copies, 50 cents. Yearly subscription in United States and dependencies, 0. (All subscriptions are payable in advance, and at the full price.) using the blank enclosed. In requesting change of address , the new one. | Nhen you receive notice that your sub- give the address to which The Bazar is now being Entered at the New York Post Office as second-class mail.

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24 HARPER’S BAZAR Wes “SV ‘ i s rit iid ity ate 7 Mi ui UL m Bithiyl i a | (i a tT a il ' " } ait (lik = EN PROMENADE With the perception that has made him supreme in the por- trayal of fashions, Drian draws with sure hand two contrasting silhouettes. These spirited figures with their swirling draperies ® have the very flavor of the smartest Paris. From the tilt of By their correct little hats to the length of their skirts, they . typify the Paris that women love!

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for FEBRUARY 1921 Mrs. Larz Anderson is a seasoned traveler and cosmopolitan, having shared with her distinguished husband a diplo- matic career in Brussels and Japan. In- deed, it was abroad that Mr. Anderson, then Secretary to the Embassy at Rome, and Isabel Perkins, who was only nine- teen at the time, became engaged. The large Boston wedding was almost de- layed by the failure of the groom’s sub- stitute to arrive at the Eternal City at the appointed time, but all went well and the festivities were so lavish that the gossips—if they have such in Bos- ton—still whisper tales of the seven hun- FROM NEW YORK MRS. LARZ ANDERSON 25 dred and fifty roses that composed the wedding bell. Seafaring is more than a whim with her, as her father was Commodore George H. Perkins, of the United States Navy. Her grandfather was William F. Weld, from whom she inherited the beautiful country place, “Weld,” in Brookline. Mrs. Anderson has written some charming tales for children; among them, “The Moon Baby” and “The Great Sea Horse,” and she has tried her hand, also, at the drama in a play called “Every- boy,” which was presented in Boston. TO BAR HARBOR The Log of a Cruise on the House-boat Roxana HAT can be more perfect than a sum- mer’s cruise up the coast? The first time that we sailed from New York to Halifax we chartered a Scottish steam yacht, called Katoomba after a mountain in Australia. The crew spoke broad Scotch with such a burr we could hardly understand a word they said, and the cap- tain even less. He didn’t seem to mind the rough seas or the fog, but the good old soul didn’t like the land at all, and when he went on shore he always got lost. We were fed on mutton pie. and short-bread and such Highland fare, and got to like it very much. Later, we joined the New York Yacht Club cruise and went aboard all the beautiful big yachts, called on friends, wined and dined each other, and learned all the yachting etiquette. We had excitement, too, with a collision in the fog off Cape Cod one morning about four o’clock. We were awakened by a terrific crash and a wrench, when our bowsprit was torn off; then a stampeding rush of everyone to get on deck at once. One guest hurried up with her coat hastily buttoned over her nightgown and a purse in her hand, apparently all ready to go on shore. An- other appeared in his pajamas, but with his pearl studs. As the accident was not really serious, we ended by having a jolly early breakfast together. NOTHER year we chartered a fast launch called the Hope, with small accommodations, where we more or less “pigged it,” as they say. This time our captain was a real Yank, and curi- ously afraid of lobster pots and fogs; it was all we could do to keep him moving. He, on the other hand, thought we were foolhardy landlub- bers. After this cruise, we concluded what we really would enjoy most would be the sort of a boat we could live in, so we bought Roxana. Some might say that a house-boat, or a river- boat, was not sporty, but to my mind Roxana is more so than any craft I have ever been on, and we have cruised through the West Indies on the steam yacht Virginia, and to the North Ca on the Catania. She draws only three and a ha’' feet, and is somewhat top-heavy, but since use coal and not gasoline like most house-boai we can go about twelve knots and almost any where we want, picking our weather. If a blow comes up, we sometimes have to scuttle into har bor before we roll over or are blown onto thy By ISABEL ANDERSON rocks. Once, indeed, we ran into a northerly squall that carried away all our awning and even the framework. Then, on the other hand, we often run aground in Florida waters on some sand-bar, when the sailors jump overboard and dig us out, or else we have to wait for the tide to lift us off. wrt does one do on a house-boat? If we are alone, I may mend the ship’s linen, or write up the trip, or talk with the engineer about his sick mother, or with the captain about the sailors’ union or navigation, or with the steward about the price of eggs and ice. My husband and I often read aloud and discuss the books, or look up the signals of passing boats, or else indulge in a walk on shore. If one has company, it may be a differ- ent story. Some people think when on a boat they must have a lark, and in the old days—but not now—they might have begun with a cock- tail when the sun was over the yardarm, taken a swim by way of exercise, paddled around in a canoe, danced to the strains of a phonograph, and wound up by flirting in the moonlight. We had several pets on board Roxana, for the sailors as well as ourselves loved animals. Per- haps the most diverting and original one was the tame raccoon we got once in Florida, who always looked for sugar in our pockets; a very clean little creature, always washing everything before he ate it, in his pail of water with his almost human little hands. He was very friendly, gave us no trouble, and never bit anyone. Everybody loved him. Johnny Harvard, the three months old bear who was fed on a bottle, cried a good deal at night. Sometimes he bit his bottle of milk and broke it, and was a little more trouble- some, but nevertheless he, too, was popular. Our frisky baby billy-goat we adored likewise, but alas! he licked the paint off the railing one day and came to a sudden and untimely death. A COMPLETE first aid kit is always a part of our equipment; and luckily, for on the last cruise the cook scalded his hand, the fireman took off the end of his finger in the machinery, nd one sailor got his hand badly scraped by a ope, while another broke his finger. You can generally fix them up for a day or two, anyway, intil you reach port. Chis summer, when we were waiting in New York for Roxana to arrive, L. asked me if I didn’t want to go out and see the Resolute beat the Shamrock. We boarded the New York Yacht Club boat at the recreation pier only to hear people say, “Probably no race to-day,” or shake their heads and declare, “Too little wind.” But something prompted us to remain on board, and before long others began to come and take their places on camp-chairs on the deck. We heard rumors that the waiters had struck, not only once but twice, for higher wages. So at the last moment they were dismissed and waiters from the club came to help out. Thereupon the crew struck, but when the members pledged themselves to run the boat in case of further trouble, the crew decided to remain. Finally we started, with the colored band play- ing jazz and the drum-major magnificently dressed for the occasion with white trousers and shoes and binoculars hung about his neck while he played. ‘T HROUGH Ambrose Channel, which used to be called Sandy Hook, we went, and stopped near the Light Boat, while yachts and tugs and every other kind of boat bobbed about. At last the two racers hove in sight. The Shamrock with her green hull and yellow canvas made a pretty picture. The sails were woven in Egypt, and the color taken, it was said, from the muddy water of the Nile. Hilarious noises could be heard issuing from, the cabins and about us, where private parties who were having luncheon had evidently brought flasks. At the start of the race we gathered on the upper deck and even climbed higher to the cabin roofs. The excitement was intense. The meaning of the signals was explained by experienced yachts- men; the boats circled, crossed the line and were off—the immediate conclusion was that Adams, the skipper of the Resolute, had outjockeyed Bur- ton at the start. As we followed the race, every- body’s spirits rose. We talked breathlessly with each other, our eyes continually applied to the glasses. Suddenly there was a great rush overhead and a crash of broken china. The boat listed badly. I ran upon the deck, thinking we had had a collision. Everybody had hurried to one side of the boat. Alas! There across the water I saw the rigging of the Resolute coming down, while the Shamrock. sailed bravely ahead. “What’s the matter?” I cried. “Accident, sailing too light, we think,” was one answer. (Continued on page 112)

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A pig la casas os te eps ‘ophn SERIE ES, OOS Oe as ng—and all the beauty he ever knew. HARPER’S BAZAR MELODRAMA 66 CAN'T stand it any longer! I love her, I tell you! Haven't I some right to happi- ness—haven’t I?” Shocking melodrama, of course. But that wasn’t what startled me so much; the point was that Gyp had quite apparently cast to the winds the convictions of years. I sat there on the edge of my bunk, utterly helpless to advise— or even argue. You see, I'd always thought that if there was one person in the world I understood, through and through, that person was Gyp. Impulsive of ac- tion—certainly; I had trained myself never to be surprised at anything he did. But there were cer- tain deep-rooted prejudices which never varied, year in, year out. Strongest of all was his preju- dice against women. Ten years I had been his best friend, his constant companion; and never in all that time had I heard him open his mouth concerning women except in denunciation. HY, most of his literary reputation had been built up around those brilliantly ironic flay- ings of feminine psychology and behavior that ran in The Observer. Oh, yes, I admit most people remember him as a free-lance humorist. You re- call those remarkably funny sketches of small- town life in almost all the magazines twenty years ago, above that signature manufactured from his By JOHN VAN ALSTYNE WEAVER Illustrated by M. L. Bower initials, “George Y. Pierce.” But I’m referring particularly to the series, “Woman, the Ridicu- lous.” He was a confirmed, consistent woman-hater, I tell you. The very day we set out for that Cana- dian wilderness, just two short weeks before, he had settled back in the Pullman, slapped me on the knee, and cried out, “I gave that stenographer of mine her notice to-day. When I come back I'll get a man—or do the work myself. I can’t stand ‘em about—just to hear ’em rustling around— A male paradise, George! That’s where we're going. One solid month of fishing and hunting—and not a woman anywhere!” And then—this! Of course, I had suspected something when he began missing supper. We always made our ex- peditions separately, but eating supper together was the habit of years of camping. Four times that week he had come back to the tent long after I was rolled up in the blankets. His answers to my questions were evasive—mutterings about “frying a few trout himself.” He was a notori- ously poor cook, hated the smoke and trouble. Naturally, I didn’t believe him. And half an hour before he uttered that anguished and, to me, preposterous exclamation about “loving her,” I had come face to face with the whole situa- tion. Half a mile from camp there was a particular pool of mine, which I had thought unexplored by others. I’d been saving it because of a certain four-pounder hooked and lost there the year be- fore. Ideal fishing weather it was, great banks of cumulus in the north threatening a rain which never quite broke. The sun, by mid-afternoon, had given up its unequal struggle to pierce through. The trees seemed to interlock their gloomy masses in a sullen conspiracy against the light. I waited until just before sunset, crept quietly around the bend, parted the willows gently—and saw, on the other bank, Gyp, kneeling in the grass, his arms clutched around the knees of a woman, and his face pressed into the folds of her skirt! I WAS dumfounded. I withdrew as noiselessly as possible, though I am sure they wouldn’t have noticed me if I’d tumbled into the pool, so absorbed they were in each other and in a sorrow immediately apparent—like two agonized beings

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for FEBRUARY 1921 about to fall out of the world, it seemed to me. Gyp came in a few minutes later. He threw himself face downwards on his bunk. Then I told him what I had seen. He sat up, and stared hopelessly at the floor. “Well, since you know that much, you might as well know the rest,” he said. “I love her. And she’s married.” A typical melodrama situation. Absurd? With anyone else, yes. But this was Gyp, remember Gyp. my best friend. I listened helplessly to the whole depressing story. She was beautiful. So much I had seen for myself. And she was young—twenty-two, he said. And sensitive, and full of life, and lonely. Her husband—“her keeper, damn him!” was the way Gyp put it—was unsympathetic in every way. “Business man,” snarled Gyp. “Owns half this country around here—lumber, you know. Looks at Sylvia—yes, that’s her name—looks at her as if she were a tree, or a hunting-lodge, or some other property. Old, that’s what’s the matter with him. And English. Why, he isn’t even jealous! Doesn’t seem to consider it possible that anybody would have the nerve to—well, trespass. And her dreams —and beauty—what the devil? I love her, and she loves me. That’s all there is to it.” I shook my head. “I never thought a day would come when you'd be saying anything like that to me.”

‘““XJEITHER did I,” he answered simply. “Love’s a funny thing. I guess I’m a one-timer— and this is my once.” “Well.” I said, “what are you going to do? Ru y with her?” ance would we have?” he muttered. “A low us to the end of the world, and with his —No, that’s impossible. Beyond any hoy it’s something else at ast we can sna ; 2w moments of ae eae fell tense musing, alm« I were not there 5 prompted. Gyp vut of his rev- eries. | ened forward with words. “Ge left to-night. Went two weeks. The f ( vled to Ore- gon—im > umber. Oh, he’s ge loubt of it. He'll s wo weeks. Busines H could she have ma ‘ im? How could she’ Fascination, I suppose. ‘fhrat’s what she says. His; r, you know. And her vadgering her all cried “Why not ve her, I tell you, and if ' know anything in tse world, I know she !5 é No- body’s ther yuiy an old caretaker. She ree to go and come leases. Oh, don’t tal! me about morals and a!! that stuff. Two we with her—why, wat d care about anythise els: “But, Gyp —what about her ?”

don’t want any guide hanging around. You can send for him, when you get ready to go.” YP rushed over to me with keen concern in his face. “Why, George! What a selfish ass I've been! I can’t let you ruin your vacation. Can’t you—?” “Chuck it,’ I answered. ‘“Nothing’s ruined. Don’t you think I see how much this means to you? I’m going. As for you, it’s your own life. You've got to live it yourself. Now you go out there and tramp for an hour. If you change your mind, come back again, and I'll stay. Other- wise— I went on packing things. Gyp stood watching me. After a little, he came over to me and gripped my shoulder. Then he walked to the door. The moon silvered his slightly curling black hair and silhouetted his strong, bitter profile. He was softened, not the Gyp I knew, the sardonic, brilliant Gyp, but someone new, very human; very much to be pitied, and a little to be envied, I thought, looking back at my own sour bachelor- hood. I watched him stride down the path, until he vanished into the shadow of the great trees. In two hours, I called Jacques. That faithful woods- man was a bit disconcerted by his sudden dismis- sal, but double pay and a quart of my best made our parting almost hilarious. I really hadn’t broken up my vacation, at that. There was plenty of work waiting in my office. And I can’t say I worried much about what might happen to Gyp, although I did con- siderable speculating about it. After all, it was his life, and I had sense enough to see that he had been swept clear off his feet by an obsession he couldn’t master. As he said, love seems to be a strange thing. More than once I’ve secu men live along calmly and normally day after day—and He stood silent! »0k- ing me in the and I knew then that the ome Bese ie ea am = There he was, kneeling in the grass. The firmness of hit voice His haggard face was lifted toward ren me mo than his the stars. His lips were moving words. : Cafayen 9 “Nobody will ev: i I caught the name “Sylvia. It’s just the cay ving her and having her love me—that’s al! I ask. She'll stay at her own place at night—they’ll never know then suddenly throw everything else to the wind I’m on earth. But our days—in these glorious in pursuit of a curved cheek, a low voice— woods—” Gyp, of course, was harder hit than most. Be- Gyp looked 2! me with surprise. ‘“What’s all cause, when you get right down to it, all his ap- this?” he said. parent cynicism was a paradoxical idealism. His “I’m leaving, of course. To-morrow, on the scathing remarks on women proceeded from a morning train ucques will take me down to- night. No; it’s settled. I'll pay Jacques off. You

conviction that no human could even approximate the ideal he held always in his mind. Now, ap- 27

parently, he had found her. “Beauty of body, beauty of mind,” was his often-repeated formula. Ten days of continual meetings had convinced him that this Sylvia of his possessed that combination, Well, perhaps so. All I had seen was a wistful, ex- quisite face—and a form graceful with the grace of youth, but so frail—so delicate that she seemed half an illusion—something seen in a dream. A dream, that was it, a dream that haunted Gyp through all the rest of his life, that brought: him suffering—and all the beauty he ever knew. O, I was not worried. There’s a special provi- dence that seems to watch, sometimes, over the affairs of those lovable, incomprehensible crea- tures who, like Gyp, truly possess genius. Fickle that providence may be, but somehow I felt a conviction that, for the present, it was guarding Gyp. And I was right. A little more than two weeks later, Gyp walked into my office and sat down calmly. I say, calmly. And that was the whole impres- sion he made. A great peace was upon him, a quiet happiness. The old Gyp was gone, the Gyp of bitterness, of brilliant irony, of sharp, impa- tient gestures. You have no idea how palpable was the change, even before he said a word. He sat quietly watching a cloud of pigeons wheeling through the smoke outside the window. Finally he spoke. “Once I saw a bull-necked gunman who got re- ligion. Before that time he was the hardest egg I ever laid my eyes on. After that—well, I couldn’t understand ....I1 understand now .... I guess the answer to life is to be able to believe in some- thing . . . . George, I’ve had a glimpse of OOF . na I said nothing. What was there to say? He stood at the window, still watching the pigeons trace their patterns through the smoke. He placed his hand on my shoulder, seemed about to continue, then turned and strode out. E was changed clear through. I saw it im- mediately in his work. I missed the rapier thrusts of his accustomed sarcasms, the lightning strokes of his ridicule. But something deeper began to show, a sympathy, an understand- ing. Oh, he was still hu- morous—even more so, for it was a gentler humor, a wit that laughed with, not at, mankind. The three years that fol- lowed gave him a new kind of reputation. No longer was he Gyp, the satirist, respected but feared; he became Gyp, that very funny fellow al- ways mentioned with af- fectionate smiles by a steadily increasing public. Our relations did not change in the slightest. He was the same fine compan- ion, the same excellent com- pany. It was good to see him becoming more and more interested in his work —and in people. His “Fur- tive Souls” — sketches of city life which were a sort of glorified sob-stories might have made him a nine-days’ wonder, if it hadn’t been for the O. Henry burst of popularity which totally eclipsed any rivals at the time. As for his two weeks of romance, he never men- tioned them. I am con- vinced he did not see her, for he never left town ex- cept once, and that was to visit the seashore for a week with me. A year after the time I left him to capture those “brief moments of happiness,” I found on my desk one morning a short clipping from a Cana- dian newspaper to the effect that “Gour-Patrick, the Canadian Lumber King, and his beautiful young wife had returned to Cliff Manor, their estate in Cornwall.” I didn’t see Gyp for several days, and when we did lunch together, I noticed that he looked a little drawn about the eyes. But he said nothing; and (Continued on page 96)

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HARPER’S BAZAR eee Oe When the first warm days of spring arrive, the question of what " . . o —f0a ~ we shall wear is one of great moment. Miss E. M. A. Steinmetz T H E C OA r -D R E SS O meets this issue with charming understanding. Realizing that . women are aweary of the fabrics they have worn all winter, M O I RE U SHER S I N T H E she revives the pcb tp ae presenting it in a coat-dress de- lightfully adapted for coatless days, with its smartly buttoned EARLY SPRING front. The becoming collar and narrow ribbon girdle are of black velvet and the hat, so debonair, is of black straw and_ velvet.

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for FEBRUARY Two sophisticated extremes meet with inimitable nonchalance when Callot’s hooped skirt cos- tume of rose brocade and Cheruit’s affair of slimly draped white satin come face to face. Callot adds bands of dentally, these costumes present the two silhouettes at their very best. green sequins and large roses to her voluminous skirt and makes the bodice of rose tulle. Cheruit emphasizes her favorite outline by skilfully draping embroidered satin to form the skirt. Inci- THE STRAIGHT AND NARROW OUTLINE WILL PREVAIL FOR SPRING, Paris. ITH the February openings almost upon us, there is a good deal of dis- cussion in Paris as to the silhouette for spring. Will a radically new out- line appear, or shall we cling to the lo far, it may be almost aggres for sports and and narrow. of the opinion cept any start son many of flaring godets something of thi this spring, bu ‘onder lines of the present? So he smartest frocks have been ‘ight in line, and the skirts , have been straight, short yuturiers generally seem to be ymen are not ready to ac- ‘erent silhouette. Last sea- wndes Maisons introduced sides of coat skirts and is already in the air for not believed that these indi- cate any pronounced change in the outline. Mr. Jacques Worth, for example, says em- phatically that he will not do anything revolu- tionary. ‘Not in several years,” said Mr. Worth, “have frocks been so graceful and generally beau- tiful as they are to-day. Why change, except to make them more beautiful?” Mr. Worth realizes that women like the slim straight model; it is flattering to the great ma- jority and they are not in the mood for any wide departure from it. He therefore elaborates or modifies his loveliest creations of the present sea- son, depending for approval on the beauty of the fabric and the novelty of the detail. The treat- ment of a panel, an odd bit of drapery, an arrest- ing combination of color or fabric or an unusual SAYS PARIS girdle of some unexpected material, are the signs that denote a new costume by this couturier. He is using quantities of rhinestones and other sparkling decorations. Two of his new evening gowns call attention in a striking fashion to his liking for black, enlivened by scintillating decora- tion. The first, made for the Riviera, is of black crépe Georgette, slender as to silhouette and short as to skirt. A deep girdle or corselet of rhinestones on black net, divides the gown. The Worth touch is seen not only in this girdle, but in the over-drapery of black tulle that is arranged on the lower half of the girdle, veiling the rhine- stones and falling over the narrow skirt of the crépe. The second “jeweled” model is of black tulle

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BEAUTY HARPER’S BAZAR BASE THEIR CHARM OF FABRIC es Tt Pa PS le ee Nee eaes 7 —— ae we. . - When Lanvin makes a frock of such great simplicity of de- sign she artfully depends for charm on the beauty of the gold and flame colored tissue and on the gold balls drop- ping from sleeves and skirt. The embroidered gold crépe gown created for Lady Ramsay is relieved by handkerchief drap- ery of gold tulle and pink roses. severity of Molyneux’s Poiret has excelled himself in selecting black satin brocaded in black and gold stripes and banded with loutre for a very cheracteristic evening gown. the hips, the second and wider one is at the broadest part of the figure and the smallest is placed at the hem. This gives an interesting peg-top effect and, being handled with Callot’s great skill, is really very graceful. Each hoop has tiny frills Chiffon drapery that falls below the satin skirt denotes the newness of Charlotte’s all- black dinner gown. Pink roses brighten it. All-over beaded fabrics are favored in Paris. Peron uses black satin beaded with blue and adds bands of gold duvetyn at neck and hem. and mousseline made with an almost normal waist-line and the straight outline. The high point of this evening gown is the fairly wide tablier, encrusted with turquoise blue beads in a closely woven design. Black tulle, by the way, is in great favor in Paris for the spring. EAVING the Maison Worth and seeking further information as to possibilities of a change in the silhouette for the coming season, I find a cer- tain unanimity of opinion. Of course, here and there tailored and semi-tailored models showing a bouffant tendency are exhibited, but in a tentative manner, as though the couturiers are simply ex- perimenting with something they are not sure that women will accept. In the main, the Grandes Maisons declare that at present they are not mak- ing any radical change. Callot, I hear, may bring out a new form of the peg-top skirt, but this will by no means have anything in common with the much discussed skirt for tailored and other daytime costumes. A recent model created by this maison has a skirt of lovely pale green brocade shirred over three hoops. The first hoop is placed at the top of of narrow gold. The silhouette is notice- ably flat in the front and back. The bodice, of light green crépe de Chine, is sleeveless and is cut in a deep V both front and back. The fronts are worth commenting on for they cross surplice fashion low on the figure and, being drawn to the back, form a tightly draped girdle at the waist- line. While Callot has made an impression with this voluminous hooped skirt, it is not be- lieved that she is introducing or even hint- ing at a new silhouette. There are al- ways certain women who like and can wear eve- ning gowns of this sort and Callot is past master at designing them. It is well worth noting, in this connection, that practically all of her best- liked models are of the slender variety. A simple chemise dress worn at the Ritz recently bespoke Callot in no uncertain terms. It was a very short affair of exquisite gray velvet; the frock fell primly to the hem, from a shallow yoke shaped in points on the shoulders. The front opened in a deep narrow V at the throat and the sleeves were long and close-fitting. The hips were encircled with a belt of black varnished leather, a trifle more than an inch in width. THE uneven skirt-edge, which rumor savs we are to see during the spring and summer, has been stedfastly featured by Mme. Lanvin for some months. Indeed, all the Paris houses have shown more or less of the uneven skirt-edge. Very pretty in the frock itself, this uneven edge is quite ugly when worn under a full-length cloak with what are apparently rags and tatters flutter- ing about the ankles. For this reason, many of the new cloaks are made several inches shorter

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FEBRUARY 1921 fo , INTERESTING DETAIL NOVEL COLOR EFFE APPEAL TO THE PARISIAN Worth enlivens an attractive spring trotteur of brown taf- feta with buttons and ap- pliqués of red cloth. The wide sash girdle, looped at the side, gives a piquant touch, Ingratiatingly demure is a one-piece dress of black taffeta with white mousseline sleeves, made for southern days by Madeleine and Madeleine. The eternal fitness of black and white is shown when Madeleine and Madeleine bead a tunic of white shantung in black, adding a slip of black. than the edge of the straight narrow foundation skirt, thus rendering the ensemble much more pleasing. This was charmingly exemplified at a smart luncheon the other day in an extremely short gown of crépe de Chine. There were many little points of the crépe fluttering here and there below the skirt-edge, but the wearer’s loose sable coat was but knee-length, permitting the lower part of the skirt to show, and so giving the flut- tering panels their proper background. LOAKS of sable, chinchilla and other furs made in the form of slender narrow capes have the pelts posed lengthwise from shoulder to hem, and crosswise at the top of the shoulder, forming a straight, high “cuff” collar. One such wrap worn by a slender little Parisienne is made of beautiful sable pelts placed lengthwise, resulting in the very slenderest of silhouettes. This model, modified to please the individual couturier promises to be a spring favorite. Lucile and Callot are both sponsoring it, and very smart it is, although some- what at variance with the coat silhouette most generally seen. One of the smartest of the sheath cloaks is of black cashmere-cheviot, fitting the shoulders close- ly and seamed straight across at the elbows, where the wrap broadens slightly, the whole garment thus fitting practically without a wrinkle, in the new fashion. A modest turned-over collar of gray squirrel tops the cloak and a narrow border of squirrel edges the fronts to the hem—a thread of gray embroidery about an inch from the squirrel border following the line of the cloak- fronts. Satin is being more and more used for wraps for daytime ~enr The most interesting models fit loosely a to the waist-line where they are seamed the coat-skirt being slightly fulled on. oaks are not really so at- tractive as it girdled variety, but they are being w omen of French society. For the tl men are wearing exceedingly handsome b ing gowns. It is interesting Chanel creates a re- freshingly different dress of black crépe de Chine embroidered with light green. The bodice, of plain crépe, frills un- der a green leather belt. to notice that the velvets of the early winter are giving way to black crépe de Chine or crépe Georgette. Some of these gowns are touched with jade or flame color in the form of striking girdles or corsage flowers. Tunics or drapery of fine black lace, worn over narrow under-dresses of crépe or dull satin, are also greatly liked, and of course black pailletted tulle more than holds its own. The crépe, lace and Georgette gowns have either the round low 1830 shoulder, or open in a V in front and back, with rather wide Ect KScecere- SCcCe Cures bands—often forming short sleeves —across the shoulders. As for the pailletted frocks, they are ever so slender, almost sheathes, in fact, and are sleeveless. Narrow strips of the paillettes cross the shoulders and frequently a bit of tulle, black or some vivid color, floats from the hip. With these glittering gowns few jewels are worn—pearl necklaces and diamonds and other sparkling ornaments being reserved for the dull surfaced fabrics against which their beauty and luster are intensified. At the tiny Theatre Michel Jane Renouardt is wearing some very lovely frocks by Lanvin. And it is interesting to note that Madame Lanvin who of late has persistently frocked the favorites of the footlights in tight-corsaged, wide-skirted period frocks, has deserted in her creations for Mile. Renouardt the wide silhouette for the slen- der. It is noticeable that these slender robes are by no means close-fitting at the waist-line. For street wear Madame Lanvin is making sev- eral little tailleurs of blue serge and also of taffeta in dark shades. A feature of these costumes is the gilet of white muslin attached to a high collar and fastened with jade green buttons. van Campen Stewart. To cover taupe tulle with paillettes of card- board painted gold, green and rose is a whim of Martial and Armand. Gold tissue makes the cascade drapery at the side. 31 AND CTS

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HARPER’S THE POCKETBOOK IS MOST IMPORTANT Speaking of pocketbooks, Paris is devoting a great deal of attention to these acces- sories. One designer places two black velvet purses back to back, leaving a place between for a delicate handkerchief. A monogram in brilliants marks one side and a black tassel hangs from an ivory ball. More practical is an oblong pocketbook of heavy brown silk. A medallion of hand-woven tapestry, in ultra-modern colors, ornaments the flap. A bit of friv- olity is a tiny half-circle of Persian silk that is really a vanity case, with a tiny mirror and a space for small change. The ivory mounting of a black satin bag is banded with rose color in a truly de- lightful manner. The rosette on the front is of rose and gold. The vanity case is beautiful when made of Persian silk over a narrow oblong frame of gilt. Worth makes a stunning flat purse of red leather. The smartly groomed woman appreciates the importance of the little touches that complete her costume. She is as fastidious in the choice of her hand-bag, slippers and trinkets as in the selection of her hat. Looking at Poiret’s gown of velvet, we actually forget it because of the allure of the watch of platinum and diamonds dropping from ribbon bands suspended from diamond arrow pins, and then there is the hand-bag of black moiré with its bobbish tassel of silk and a tiny watch set in the flexible frame. As for slippers, they are too lovely with their fringe of dull silver depending from the instep strap. Metal and beaded girdles, to delight the Queen of Sheba herself will embellish many a spring and summer brock. Paris is quite mad about them. Goupy makes one of cloth of gold embroidered in green and encrusted with dark blue and gold beads. The ornament and tassels are of the gold beads. Such a girdle will look its best against dark cloth or silk. An interesting bag of gray velvet striped with steel embroidery is finished with three silver balls and corded handles. The glove for spring may boast silver stitchery and loops.

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THE NEW COIFFURES OUTLINE THE HEAD The new headdresses are excessively smart but undoubtedly rather trying to any but the jeune fille. Jewels are of course ta- boo, but flowers and the bandeau are much in favor. A young Parisian matron wears her hair drawn back from her fore- head and adds a high comb and bandeau. A crescent-shaped piece of gold-beaded embroidery is mounted with seven gold balls and fastened beneath the low-placed knot of chestnut hair. This is a typical Lanvin coiffure. Only a débutante would dare achieve the quaint little knot of hair tightly coiled at the nape of the neck. An 1830 headdress has a delightful appeal when Lanvin designs it. The sedate charm of the severely plain arrangement will satisfy the young person who likes to be different. Small pink rosebuds are in- tertwined with the long low coil of hair that covers the ears, with girlish effect. for FEBRUARY 1921 33 LANVIN A breath-taking Drianesque coiffure is not a mode for every day or every woman. It is quite wonderful for evening, however, when amazingly swirled atop the head by a master hand. This is a favorite coiffure with many young mondaines whose beauty withstands this severity of treatment. With many young women the slight fringe over the ears is taking the place of the former “ear-laps”. Lanvin’s voluminously skirted wedding gown of white satin is perfectly in the picture with this headdress. It is stately in line and suggests 1830 in its general effect. The sides of the skirt are much shorter than the front. In this day of the short-skirted frock, the stocking assumes a new importance, and demands for something new are heard constantly. We find, therefore, the lace inserts that decorated the instep giving way to long strips of Valenciennes insertion that run from heel to top of the stocking. This new fashion is welcomed most warmly. Patent leather slippers piped with white and strapped with black and white, and anklet of leather with three gold clasps have been worn this season in Paris. An unusual girdle is of looped velvet.

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She slipped the gown from one 3 shoulder and stared, startled at § its smooth curve, which seemed to flush with maidenly shame at the kiss of the morning air. By GEORGE Illustrated by Charlies D. HARPER’S BAZAR PO? OF GOLD AGNEW CHAMBERLAIN Mitchell PART I—IN A WORD UDDENLY, without warning, with- out apparent reason, with no accompanying alteration of her expression, a tear rolled unnoticed down the girl’s rounded cheek. Unnoticed by her; but so star- tling to the only other passenger in the elevator that he found himself staring at her in almost rude amazement. And only extreme astonishment could have effected so great a breach of courtesy; for Mr. Rittenhouse Bourne was a young man of family and culture. He had been aware, of course, that the girl possessed an un- usual beauty heightened by distinction; but never would he have betrayed his in- terest for that inexplicable tear. Inexplicable the tear remained. One hypothesis after another he rejected. Why that single, singular tear? He confessed himself nonplussed. Yet his very in- ability to explain the incident only made it more intriguing. It was apparently a fascinating manifestation of that age-old mystery, woman. A further manifestation of the feminine riddle he found awaiting him when he arrived at the country home of Boies Stephen, his best friend. That hard-work- ing, up-and-coming young lawyer was in a state of puzzled despair. For recently his wife, Amelie, had calmly left him. He could find, he said, no adequate rea- son for her desertion. All she would say was that she was “tired of looking out of wiridows,” tired of Boies, tired of the children, and was going away. “I asked her if it was money,” he re- counted to Bourne, “and she shrugged her shoulders and said ‘No’. Then I asked her if it was another man, and she said, ‘Boies, you are like a copy-book reciting itself aloud.’ ... . I said, ‘That’s no an- swer’. Tell me, is it Ritt Bourne? .... All she said to that was that it was the next line out of the copy-book, the one about it’s always being the man’s best friend; then she added, as a sort of after- thought, that you reminded her of a stream just above tide-water, traveling one way all the time and moving slow.” Bourne’s anger at being needlessly dragged into the affair was arrested by his discomfiture at Amelie’s unflattering analysis of him. He listened, distinctly PA URING the next two weeks that had intervened, Boies had had a bad time of it. Without making a direct effort and through a chance talk with an acquaintance, he had located Amelie, and the things he subsequently heard, far from doing anything toward allaying his wonder at his wife’s actions, had merely served to increase his bewil- derment and alarm. As a result, his first night in the strange bed at Murray Hill, in the house of his old friend, had been exceedingly restless, and at the first sign of day he had taken a cold plunge, put on a bathrobe, and begun a silent prowl through the premises. He entered the li- brary and discovered Ritt Bourne. “Boies,” said Ritt, “what are you doing in the library at this ungodly hour; in nothing but a bathrobe and slippers, too? Don’t you know that you are a guest?” puzzled, to the rest of his friend’s recital. Boies could not see himself at fault. Per- haps it was just that women were spoiled —had “caught the chestnut blight’. As for the bewitching girl of the eleva- tor, she was indeed a maiden of mystery. Unheralded and unchaperoned, she had appeared suddenly at the desk of that con- servative hotel and demanded “a room with a window on the Avenue.” An ad- venturess? Possibly. But so charming, and so unmistakably a “real person” that despite the patronymic, palpably filched from the social roster, which she indited on the register, her welcome was unques- tioning and punctilious. : Even Janet, the floor-maid, usually cynical and hostile in the extreme, became her especial adorer and willing slave. All because of a phenomenon identical with that which was haunting Bourne—one sudden, unforeseen, isolated tear, cours- ing down the girl’s lovely face. Janet’s conquest was completed when she inspected the sartorial purchases of Miss Alloway—that was the name the girl gave her, although it did not correspond with the one she had inscribed on the register—for such garments could only be the property of a true lady. And yet the situation was inscrutable. For when she accompanied her new mistress to the theatre that night, she was acutely conscious of Miss Alloway’s tre- mendous, though suppressed, excitement. Apparently this girl, so thoroughly pos- sessed of savoir-faire, was making her first visit to a playhouse. After the play, while Janet was seeking a taxi, Miss Alloway gave further proof of her gentility. For a youngish man, of obvious experience and sophistication in such matters, attempted, by the most suave method imaginable, an approach. The calm deliberation of her rebuffing gaze put him completely out of countenance. A piquant character, truly—this en- trancing girl, so finished and yet so naive, so buoyant and yet with some secret sor- row in the back of her mind. What part was she to play in the des- tinies of young Bourne and his friends? But let Mr. Chamberlain himself con- tinue his delightful tale of mystery, ad- venture and New York society. RT II “What are you doing here?” countered Stephen. “By the way, what time do you make the office?” “IT don’t make it at all at present,’ an- swered Bourne. “There are two things that loom bigger than work on my horizon just now, and one of them is you. Put on your clothes; we are going to play golf.” “Not I, Ritt,” said Stephen. to work.” “You're going to play golf,” repeated Bourne. “Dress and chuck a little break- fast into yourself. The car will be around in half an hour. Try and remember just for an occasional moment that you are a guest.” “T’ve got N the way up the river Stephen said out of a clear sky: “Amelie is in town; she’s living in West Tenth Street.” “I know,” said Bourne. “I’ve seen her.” “You have!” exclaimed Stephen, and added after a long pause, “Ritt, tell me something. Has she bobbed her hair?” Bourne threw back his head and laughed. “No, by cripes, she hasn’t! Nor her soul. That’s a funny district, Boies. It isn’t the Village proper, you know. It’s a sort of no-man’s-land where the semi- elect perch in doubt, while they look over the situation, and most of them never take the irredeemable plunge. It’s the region from which people come back with a bad taste in their mouths, but no chronic indigestion.”

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FEBRUARY 1921 f or “What’s Amelie doing in that galley?” asked Stephen. “She isn’t in it. She’s one of the bored thou- sands that have heard the rumor of a promised land where things are different and climb to the watershed to have a look into the valley of illusion. She'll never go through with it; she isn’t the kind to plunge except into deep water.” “How do you know so much about my wife?” asked Stephen, sourly. “Well,” said Bourne, “I don’t consider her ex- actly your wife at present. I’ve been buzzing her around a bit to the thick, thin and middling stuff one finds below the deadwood line.” “You have, have you? Just how far have you gone?” “The furthest I’ve gone so far,” replied Bourne calmly, “was to grab her and kiss her till the blood came.” “Are you joking?” asked Stephen, turning white at the corners of his lips. “I think you must be, or you couldn’t imagine we were going to play golf when we get out of this car.” — WASN’T joking,” said Bourne, “but I forgot to say it was my blood that flowed. You haven’t noticed the thin red line that runs from my ear toxthe corner of my jaw. She scratched me as vulgarly as a fishwife on the rampage.” “Ritt, what on earth did you do it for? Where are we with this rough stuff, anyway?” “That’s just what I wanted to find out,” said Bourne. “Somebody was bound to try it sooner or later, and I thought you would rather have it be me. There was another reason, of course. I wanted to show her that there are times when you can set the Thames on fire, even above tide- water. She'll never be so sure again that my blood runs all one way, and incidentally, Boies, while her moral reflexes are still in perfect order, I believe she enjoyed the actual physical tussle. She cried out on the beastliness, the way they always do, but you never in your life saw just such color in her cheeks or fire in her eyes. Hold on, now, don’t get excited. I'll tell you, the whole thing gave me an idea.” “Hold on yourself,” interrupted Stephen. “I want to ask you something in earnest. If you had found Amelie a weak sister, would you have gone through with it?” “That’s a fool question,” said Bourne, “and I suppose you think it’s a trouble maker. The answer is, yes; but you and I have known all along that Amelie isn’t of that sorority. She isn’t woman in the gutter; she’s woman on the warpath, and if you know of any unfair advan- tage we can take of her, now is the time to take it, old boy. All this talk of the weaker sex makes me tremble for the future of man. Women can out-suffer, out-live, out-lie and out-fool us by the four points of the compass. Their endurance is phenomenal; their perseverance along fixed lines is a devastation. Their name used to be mud and now it’s wildfire.” “I can say amen to that,” said Stephen. what are you going to do about it?” “There are three ways to stop a runaway horse,” answered Bourne after a moment’s thought. “One is by the curb; another is by cracking him between, the ears with the butt of your crop, and the third is by roiling off, wrap- ping yourself around his forelegs, and dying with him. Think it out.” “T have,” said Stephen. “And my conclusion is that your time is overdue. God send you a wife—any old wife. I've got such a thirst fo’ matrimony and the after- math for you, that I'd willingly lose this golf i match to see you hooked. ’ “Now You said you had an idea; what is it?” Let And the next minute she was seated and ask- ing in her low modu- lated voice, breaking almost but not quite gasp, for “A glass of water, please’ into a 4 t Ps i : aa x 35 “You're going to lose the golf match anyway,” replied Bourne, “and the idea will keep while I prove it.” OURNE'’S prediction was fulfilled, but ‘during the long ride home the two friends did not resume their attack on absent woman; they held their fire until after dinner. Then John Bourne, Ritt’s father, was present to hold the scales of justice. His son started the ball rolling with a leading question. (Continued on page 80) ee eee sail re 7 ae oa ey ee Speen cient Bu

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HARPER’S BAZAR Re) > aS PAINTINGS OF SOUTHWEST By WILLIAM P. HENDERSON In the portrayal of the Snake Dance the artist has caught the primitive passions of the back hill Indians of New Mexico. “The Laguna Girl and her Mother,” one of Mr. Henderson’s new studies, is owned by Carter Harrison, of Chicago. The portrait of Alfonso Royabel is a study of the young Indian whose watercolors have recently been exhibited in New York.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 New York will have an opportunity to see Mr. Henderson’s work in the spring. “The Pink Serape,” a portrait of Marie, illustrated above, will be one of the notable canvases shown. “The End of the Santa Fé Trail,” at the right, is a picturesque rendition of New Mexican life. “Manana,” now in Mr. Carter Harrison’s collection, is full of characteristic feeling.

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38 HARPER’S BAZAR THE GILET IS FEATURED BY MISS STEINMETZ IN DAYTIME FROCKS FOR SPRING Gabardine, we hear, will be one of the best-liked fabrics for spring. In a golden tan shade it makes a beltless coat-dress built on slender lines. Three large buttons accen- tuate the severity of the model, while a smart one-sided jabot of white mull gives the dainty, fem- inine touch that women demand. Frills of cotton or linen appeal to the woman who desires a change from the plain neck-line. A semi- tailored dress of tan gabardine has a gilet, sleeve frills and collar of cream organdie. The sash of blue silk, matching in color the smartly brimmed hat, permits one end to fall below the edge of the skirt. Fringe is still used on some of the newest gowns—certainly its possi- bilities are many. The sharply uneven skirt and softly bloused bodice of an afternoon gown of dull blue crépe de Chine are edged with silk fringe in an unusual man- ner. The round neck with its bow of bright green is most becoming. Tan foulard spotted with blue and combined with tan gabardine pro- vides a stunning background for an exquisite gilet of white batiste. A happy treatment of the foulard and gabardine is shown in the skirt while the bodice is made en- tirely of the foulard and blouses in the front and back over a girdle.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 An interesting use of fabric ts ex- emplified in a coat of dull blue taffeta, designed to wear with the afternoon frock of crépe de Chine on the opposite page. The deep bands on the skirt are of taffeta, stitched perfectly flat, and the high curved collar, a feature of many of the new coats, is also of the silk. Oddly enough, flame color is to be one of the indoor colors of spring; in fact, red in one tone or another will be greatly in evidence for both formal and informal evening cos- tumes. An adorable frock of flame chiffon combined with fine écru lace delightfully answers the question, “What shall I wear to the dance?” MISS STEINMETZ CONTINUES TO FAVOR THE SLENDER SILHOUETTE FOR ALL OCCASIONS There is no gainsaying the effec- tiveness of the tan and blue com- bination when a plaited over-dress of tan crépe de Chine is slit to show a narrow under-slip of dark blue crépe de Chine. The ribbon girdle, tied on the side, is blue, and to complete this distinctive cos- tume the wrap is of the blue crépe. Despite the bouffant effect of its cream lace drapery, a_ graceful dance frock of black satin possesses the much-to-be-desired straight silhouette, for the lace is transparent and of the most deli- cate texture. The sleeve arrange- ment is smart and there is a hint of 1830 in the décolletage.

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HARPER’S BAZAR aa | “ | ! han ay Madeleine et Madeleine Worth Deuillet Premet Chanel PARIS GREETS THE SPRING WITH SLENDER GOWNS SHOWING MANY INTERESTING DETAILS AFTERNOON With happy results Premet puts together green lace and satin of the same shade. The feature of Beer’s brown crépe de Chine dress is the bright red facing of the girdle and panels. Lelong depends on bands and motifs of blue cloth to adorn a frock of blue taffeta. The pointed apron and the double bands and sleeves of black Georgette add grace to Madeleine and Madeleine’s black satin gown. Worth enlivens beige taffeta with insets of red and white crépe in an effective fashion. Touches of smocking are the only trimming on Deeuillet’s frock of black satin. Premet displays the merits of cream lace when he combines it with brown satin, while Chanel presents gray crépe de Chine finely tucked and plaited. PLAITE SD SKIRTS Paris is accepting the short plaited skirt for evenings, especially for informal dinners and the theatre. A long-bodied sleeveless bodice of gold brocade has a plaited skirt of black satin with a narrow band of the brocade at the hem. Poiret adds black and gold embroidery to an over-blouse of gray velours to be worn with a plaited skirt of blue serge. Steel sequins brighten the long loops and corsage of a Lanvin theatre gown of green satin and white crépe de Chine. For the Nice season Molyneux uses yellow silk jersey and bands it with blue satin ribbon. A girlish frock designed for Mile. Darthys of the Theatre Nouvelle has an over- blouse of gray taffeta embroidered with black and a plaited skirt. TAILLEURS Charloite scallops the edge of a distinguished coat-dress of blue tafieta and embroiders it with heavy gray wool. For a sports or country suit of awning-striped shantung, Worth makes a dash- ing cutaway coat of fine black cloth, lining it with shantung. Stunning indeed is Alice Bernard’s coat of white velours de laine stitched in black and worn with a black velvet frock. Miniature panniers break the line of Worth’s stately gown of black taffeta banded with red taffeta barred with silver. Two shades of gray shantung make Worth’s full-skirted coat with its wide back panel. For the Riviera is Worth’s girlish frock of black and white checked silk, topped with tucked white organdie. The coat is black taffeta.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 \ We WMA ~~ £\AX\rg ‘ \ . = ‘ Doucet Drecoll Deuillet MANY FABRICS OF GREAT BEAUTY WILL BE USED FOR COSTUMES FOR DAY AND EVENING EVENING Doucet places a spray of purple grapes on a frock of black velvet and lines the back panel with green silk. An unusual finish to Drecoll’s all-black gown of lace and satin is the band of jet ex- tending across the shoulders. Draped sash and monkey fur are the features of a black crépe de Chine dress by Deuillet. Lelong uses jet on the bodice and panels of a gown of black lace over satin. Silver lace scarves Martial and Armand’s gown of silver cloth. Alice Bernard “spots” black taffeta and lace with a rosette and ends of green ribbon. Black satin as the foundation for silver lace completes Martial and Armand’s dinner gown. Beer adds shoulder straps and girdle of rose red to a gown of black satin. CAPES Lelong’s newest cape for spring has slashed sleeves and close-fitting shoulders. The fabric is gray gabardine faced with blue cloth. A little sports wrap to be worn_over white dresses is made by Deuillet in rose-colored bure. Jenny makes a straight-lined cape of black gabardine and collars it with black satin embroidered with black silk in an odd design. Loops of the satin fall from the collar. A dressy cape of beige wool with bands of gazelle permits the arm to show almost to the shoulder. The deep flounce is new. Resembling a slashed doublet’ is the modified circular cape of beige velours de laine. A plain full cape of golden brown crépe has a girlish round yoke of golden cord gathered on the shoulders. NEGLIGEES Paris concedes the importance of the negligée that combines beauty and utility. Premet makes a curious little cape drapery and yoke of creamy yellow lace for a straight little peignoir of pale pink crépe de Chine. Lavender chiffon and satin, much embroidered, makes a pajama negligée that is distinctly feminine. Over a slip of pink satin, Martial and Armand drape a marvelous cape of silver lace having many little silver tassels down the center of the back. Premet uses pale jade green chiffon for a fascinating one- piece slip and trims it with cream lace. Wide pantaloons of the chiffon and lace are worn underneath. Chiffon in the new orchid shade, cascades of silver ribbon and lace make Premet’s negligée. Lelong Martial et Armand Alice Bernard Martial et Armand Beer 41 Lelong Deuillet Jenny Premet Martial et Armand Premet Premet

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42 HARPER’S BAZAR Walker & Gillette, Architects. “BIG TREE FARM” The country home of Mr. James N. Hill at Wheatley Hills, Long Island This quite exceptional photograph of the main hall of Big Tree Farm shows the two gracefully curving staircases and stately columns. The stairway in the foreground leads to the balcony on which the library opens, the other leads to the personal rooms. The walls of the hall are of yellow plaster in a warm tone. An unusual feature is the arrangement of the living room which opens from the hall on a slightly higher level.

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ry FEBRUARY 1921 Aiiassecw as , eT ee ee ye Standing on one of the highest points of this section of Long Island, the house has a commanding view. In the distance, to the north, lies the Long Island Sound, with Westchester beyond. To the south is the enclosed garden framed by the beau- tiful Wheatley Hills. The green paneled dining-room is an ex- cellent and consistent reproduction of an English eighteenth century interior. At the right of the fire- place a door leads to the breakfast room. The windows on the wo sides of the room overlook the garden and the front terrace.

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44 HERE was once an uneducated man who went out into the wilderness, and with his own hands made a clearing and built him- self a cabin; and then with his own hands he cultivated his fields and wrested crops from them, and occasionally defended them with his long rifle. In the days to come, he would be named among the pioneers, and invested with a certain glamor of romance, but to Frederick West- cott himself there was littlke enough of romance in his undertaking. He had hunted out a region of cheap land and fertile soil, and he had worked harder than any Southern slave, merely to arrange the future so that Frederick Westcott, Jr., might live an easier life. I IS ambitions were more than satisfied when Frederick, Junior, became the keeper of a back- woods village store, and Justice of the Peace. But Frederick, Junior, had visionings of his own, and he, too, had a son for whom the future must care- fully be arranged. His commercial ethics were those of the time and place; his enemies might with some truth have called him an Indian- swindling, land-stealing, hard-bitten autocrat; but his motives were paternally tender, and he gave his son three years at a distant country academy, and left him an estate of twenty thousand dollars. The third of the Frederick Westcotts wore black broadcloth, and had better table-manners than either of his parents. His proudest days were those on which Frederick the Fourth took his de- gree from a freshwater college, and again from the Harvard Law School; and if he had lived long enough, he would have been prouder yet, for his son became a metropolitan attorney, a clubman, man. “Nice horse you've got By HOLWORTHY HALL Illustrated by Grant T. R ard a member of directorates, and finally, the execu- tive head of a great and powerful corporation. Frederick the Fifth. No, not Frederick—Freddie. Graduate of a very exclusive boarding-school and of a very correct university; socially accepted in New York and Boston and Philadelphia; heir to an inheritance of perhaps two million dollars— say what you will, a young prince. It is a far cry now to the wilderness of his an- cestors; indeed, to Freddie Westcott, Narragansett as against Newport was a wilderness; Pinehurst as against Aiken was a wilderness; the West Side as against Fifth and Madison Avenues was utter waste and desolation. He tracked his pleasures from Palm Beach to the Adirondacks and back again, according to the proper schedule; he had never done anything useful, nor apparently thought anything useful; he played first-class polo at Meadowbrook, and that was the visible extent of his accomplishments. From the viewpoint of a moralist, he should, of course, have been restless and unhappy; but, as a matter of fact, he seemed to have found contentment to be an inn at which he could register and put up indefinitely, and he hadn't the faintest idea in the world that even a Socialist could find anything the matter with him. AT twenty-eight, Freddie Westcott, for all his “™ princely inheritance and training, was still so boyish that he was almost frightened when he found himself in love with Jean Merrick. You would never have guessed this from his behavior; on the contrary, you might have thought him too casual even to be sincere, but this was only be- cause he was equally ashamed of being shy and of being emotional. there.’ HARPER’S BAZAR het i A OE i 9 You one of them riders to Camp Devens, Massachusetts?” asked the old FREDDIE THE FIFTH Furthermore, he had been brought up to believe that a gentleman is a man who retains control of himself under all possible circumstances. Freddie was big and blond and outwardly well-poised, the last man in a selected thousand to be accused of sensitiveness; but he had taught himself to hide behind a breezy manner and a flippant tongue, and not even Jean could drag his sentiments into the open air. He loved her passionately (and passion is supposed to have no etiquette), but for the life of him he couldn't sit down and tell her so in the words which every girl has an absolute right to hear. He had been in love with her, then, for a considerable period before Jean knew any- thing about it. ROM their earliest acquaintance she had liked him without in the least approving of him; but when she finally realized that, through a network of mannerisms and constraints, he was trying to convey the information that he loved her, she was genuinely bewildered, for she would have imagined that she was the direct opposite of every one of his ideals. To be sure, she was personally attrac- tive; she was small and vivid, and made of many superlatives—the blackest of hair and eyes, the most exquisite of complexions, the daintiest possi- ble figure—but she knew that unless he truly did care for her, he could never have allowed her per- sonal attractions to outweigh her social incorrect- nesses. In the first place, she didn’t belong to the class which Freddie meant when he said “society,” and she was glad of it. In the second place, she was spontaneous and unafraid; she did the things she wanted to do, whether other people did them or

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for FEB RUARY 1921 not, and she did nothing for the sake of aping a fashion. She made friends among the people she wanted to know; she spoke to strange babies in Central Park, and grinning ragamuffins on Broad- way, and she wasn’t above passing the time of dav with a pleasant-faced shop-girl, or even an elevator boy. She could never remember to be curtly impersonal to waiters; and she liked to be taken, about once a year, to public places such as Coney Island, not to smile indulgently at the com- mon people enjoying themselves, but to share in their enjoyment. O she said to him: “Freddie Westcott, look at me! Why do you think you like me? I don't do the things you say girls ought to do, and I do a lot of the things you say they shouldn’t. We've known each other for three months, and as far as I can find out, we haven't the slightest interest in common, except horses and the country. You cer- tainly can’t approve of me so very much, and I’ve told you often enough that I don’t approve of you at all. So how can you think you like me?” ” Freddie sent her a glance which had true emo- tion concealed behind it, but his words, as usual, were evasive: “Why, you're so jolly different,” he said. She was frankly interested in trying to under- stand him, in trying to pry out of him some state- ment which would serve as a basis for the future; and to that end she was willing to shock him a trifle, if necessary. “Do you know what you make me feel like when you talk like that? As though I’m just a sort of novelty to you—a sort of welcome and refreshing change from an old brand—as though, pretty soon, when the novelty’s worn off, you'll be glad to get back to the old standby.” REDDIE sat up in vigorous objection. “Oh, Jean! I say, that’s rough!” “Well, you do. You make me feel just like a cigar, or a cup of coffee. You pretend to like me, and then when I ask you why, all you can say is that I'm different. And if I'm so different from the kind of girls you've always known and liked before, how can I help wondering if you're sure I'm not just temporary, Freddie? And why do you like me? That’s what I can’t understand.” “Well, neither can I,” he conceded. “But I don't bother trying, any more than I bother trying to understand why I’m hungry, and sleepy, and scien- tific things like that. What's the use? It just is.” “And you imagine you'd really miss me if I weren't here?” There was a little pause; and when she glanced up at him, she saw that he was unusually em- barrassed and unusually grave. For a moment, their eyes clung together; then Freddie spoke to her in a strange and subdued voice. “Would the earth miss the sun, Jean?” It was the first glimpse of his in- ward self he had ever given her, and she was touched. “It can’t be like that, though,” she said, gently. “But it is like that,” said Fred- die, and he got up and came across to her, and gave her his slow, lazy smile. “Jean,” he said, “you and I could have an awfully good time together— a couldn’t we?” ' PRESENTLY, out of sheer helplessness, she raised her eyes to him. we, Freddie ?” He had put back his armor of restraint, but his voice still held some of the quality which had moved her. “I'd shake the world by the heels to make you happy, Jean.” This was the opportunity she had needed. “Had you ever thought what it would cost you to make me really happy ?” “Oh, hang the cost!” s: “Could ie, vehemently. HE put out her hand. “” You see, it isn’t so muc to make me happy, as it is tifice. For instance, the t what I meant. yu’d have to do i'd have to sac- u’ve gone to— Palm Beach, and Aiken, and Newport. I wouldn't like the people there, and they wouldn't like me. Am I so different that you'd cheerfully and will- ingly give up those places and those people just for my sake, and never regret it? You'd have to, if you wanted me to be happy. I couldn't hurry around from one big hotel to another; I like to keep house. I've always lived in a real home, like this one, and loved it, and worked over it, and kept it homelike. I couldn’t live any other way; I eouldn’t stand it. Could you possibly settle down like that and be contented? And then there’s one big thing you would have to do—and you'd have to begin it long before I could ever answer your question the way you want me to—You'd have to be busy at something, Freddie, something use- ful—so I could admire you and respect you and not simply—like you. You see, I do like you, Freddie; I don’t know why, but I do. I always have, even since the first. Only—don’t you see that isn’t enough ?” He was so thoroughly in love that at this junc- ture he saw no martyr- dom in the program she had set for him. “It didn’t take me very { long to find out that you i can’t get much of any- thing without paying for it, Jean. That is, if it’s any good. It all depends on how much youre will- ing to pay for what you get. All right. The answer to everything you asked is, ‘Yes.’ What's next?” “Why,” she said thoughtfully. “Why, the next thing is—Dad. I wonder if you've the slightest idea how much I think of my father? I don’t believe you could have.” Freddie made a little sign of negation. He had thought of Mr. Merrick chiefly as an investment banker who didn’t belong to the Patroons Club, and apart from this, he had thought of Mr. Merrick only as a big, cheerful man who had a daughter. “fT THINK so much of him,” she said, “that when I was quite a little In the space of a single instant Freddie ured Jean against the bulk of the universe, against the hunting crowd. meas- 45 girl, I made up my mind that I wouldn’t marry anybody at all until I found a man as fine and strong and kind and honorable as Dad is. Some- body I could honor and respect as much as I do him. Do you see now what I mean? I can't answer you yet, Freddie, but I care enough to be- lieve you—and to wait and see if you'll do the rest. Prove to me that you can be something more than a—a drifter. Do it for a year, or even half a year—just to show me that you're serious. That's all I want.” Freddie continued to stare at her. “And you expect me to go out and do some- thing to make you feel like that about me? Do something ?” Gradually, an expression of doubt crept into his eyes, an expression of doubt and mild reproach, and at the same time, his voice betrayed his per- plexity. “Why, what on earth can I do?” he protested. “Go and dig in a ditch or something ?” “Freddie!” she said with reproach in her voice. “But there's nothing I can do, i and—and—why., Jean, why should I? Can’t I be respectable and honorableenough without tying myself down to some sort of job that I don’t need, anyway? And why, people work to get money, so they won't have to work after they’ve got it— isn’t that so? And I've got it already, haven't I? And what good is it except to have a good time with and let me stay outdoors—and make you happy?” “But it wouldn't make me happy, Freddie.” “You've never tried it.” “That’s true, but—oh, I wish you could understand how I want to think about you. I don’t want to think about you as just a prominent society man; I want to think about you as a real citizen, Freddie—a big, important, useful citizen—like Dad. And I can’t, if you won't let me And if I can’t why then—I couldn’t possibly marry you, could I?” (-REDDIE gazed hard at her, and slowly shook his head “No, I guess you couldn't.” He inhaled deeply, and moved his shoulders as though already they were chafing un- - der the harness. “Well, what is it you want me to do?” “What do you think you could do, Freddie?” He hesitated. “God knows. I don't.” “Aren’t you interested in anything at all? Any sort of business, or politics, or any- thing ?” “Not a thing.” He laughed impotently. “Of course, I’m crazy about horses—I might run a livery stable. But I’m hanged if I can think of anything else.” Neither could Jean. “Then would you mind,” she asked him, “if I talked it over with Dad? He likes you, too, he really does, and he’d be just as interested as I am to find the right thing for you. And you and I could talk it over again, and then if you care enough to do what 7 care so much about—why, I'll be awfully glad, Fred- die. I really will.” He bent over her. “Glad enough so I'd have at least a Chinaman’s chance?” The pressure she gave to his hand was reassur- ing. “Yes, Freddie.” “And no chance at all unless I—get busy?” “T'll have to think of you and Dad in the same way, Freddie, or—or else I’m afraid I couldn’t ever think of you the way you want me to.” He had declared that he would shake the world by the heels to make her happy and even when he found himself included in the cataclysm, he wouldn't take back his (Continued on page 104)

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46 HARPER’S BAZAR A charming delicacy is the Long, full sleeves of black essence of a chiffon and gold- dotted net robe intime gir- dled with gold and coral. MADEL rn Wearing them is perfectly possible when they are of buff-colored taffeta and worn with an over-blouse of blue satin to compose a fetching boudoir costume. PICTURESQUE chiffon embroidered with scarlet glorify a straight lit- tle negligée of black velvet. COSTUMES THE PARIS STAGE ENRY BATAILLE’S “L’'Homme a la rose” at the Théatre de Paris, with André Brulé in the picturesque réle of Don Juan, is delightful from the view- point of costumes. Brulé in old-time Spanish dress presents a striking example of what Poiret’s unerring taste can do for a man. Clad in silver and gray and gold, André makes a most romantic figure, his doublet of silver-and- gold brocade buttoned to the chin with a wide collar of muslin flaring in points on each side, cupping the face, and full breeches of the brocade tucked into the tops of high buckled boots of gray suede. A scarf of silver tissue fringed on the ends with silver is thrown over each shoulder and closely belted with ornamented leather. His broad- brimmed high-crowned hat is trimmed with a sweeping gray plume and a rose—and his cloak! One is lost immediately in the fascinating folds of that cloak—a graceful, trailing cape of gray vel- vet attached to the left shoulder and distended in swaggering fashion by his good sword—Brulé is a most dashing and debonair Don Juan. The costumes of the other players—there are dozens on the stage in the cathedral scene—are marvels of color and rich stuffs. Enormous pan- niers of velvet and brocade with wide, wide skirts that trail in ample fashion on the floor, wonderful lace veils over rich bonnets, scarves, shawls and cloaks and glittering embroideries—Poiret has crowded all the romance of old Spain into the cos- tuming of this play. There is Mile. Francis in silver with corsage and vast panniers of rose velvet, coifed with silver lace, and Monna Delza in gold tissue, with a huge panniered skirt ruched with gold below a tiny pointed bodice trimmed with silver, her head and shoulders covered with creamy lace falling from the high Spanish comb and fastened with a rose. Poiret has excelled Poiret in designing the costumes for “L’Homme 4 la rose.” Of rather formal lines, a robe d’interieur of rose pink vel- vet and black chiffon satisfies because of its color scheme. ‘ SP» \. ‘\ 5 Bi \ if 2 4 7 a MADELEINE j MADELEINE yw A tunic of iade green crépe and gold- embroidered chiffon with Turkish trou- sers of the chiffon showing beneath, will gratify any woman’s desire for color.

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ate

Woo favoi make band

FEBRUARY 1921

47

~ | ‘a | < | U] WADELEINE ‘J MADELEINE

For a fetching . little two- piece tailleur, Worth uses white serge, adorning it with white braid and ermine. The long sleeves of Premet’s apple green cloth costume, with their slight fulness gath- ered into a cuff, are new.

Collar and cuffs of ermine place Madeleine and Made- leine’s youthful white tailleur on a distinctly novel plane. (0 MOLYNEUX tains its place in woman’s the Nice season Molyneux i trotteur of brown jersey, white blanket trimming. PARIS FEATURES THE SHORT STRAIGHT SKIRT CCORDING to present indications, the waist-line for tailleurs and coat-suits will be generally normal. Waistcoats will be worn with spring tailored frocks— and by the way, a new tailleur seen at the Ritz is worth mentioning, for it suggested a revival of the godet. It- was a thin fine pepper-and-salt cheviot with a plain narrow short skirt. The coat, which fell open over a straight, beltless, chemise blouse of white crépe de Chine, was half-length and seamed many times in the back. The seams, however, resulted in no de- cided flare—the lower part of the jacket falling in the very shallowest of shallow godets across the back and sides. In effect, the jacket was easily fitted to the waist-line and easily-fitting at the hips—the several seams and the resulting slightly undulating coat-skirt being the only distinctive features. Jenny shows a smart jacket of ochre and black striped tissue, seamed and snugly fitted in the back and closely belted across the front with a narrow strap of the same fabric. The revers are long and slender and small slit pockets appear below the belt. This jacket is worn over a very narrow plain black skirt. Combinations of foulard and plain colored crépe are favored for spring. Jenny combines dark blue figured foulard prettily with blue crépe Georgette—the transparent crépe edging the fitted flounces of foulard. The short sleeves are edged thus with a slightly flaring ruffle of Georgette. The frock is girdled with taffeta. A number of loose blouse-like jackets have been worn lately at Auteuil. These becoming coats fit loosely at the shoulders and are wide at the waist- line, but tighten suddenly at the hips. They are made in all sorts of material and are ideal to wear with frocks of wool, satin or silk. One becoming model in black serge mouflonne has long straight sleeves and a collar of monkey fur. It was worn over a chemise frock of black crépe de Chine having loose panels falling in long un- even points on both sides of the short skirt.

” vv D@Ercreéei Deuillet clings to the straight and nar- row outline when he presents a dress of blue serge embroidered im rust. The girdle outlining the hips is interesting.

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> MRS. HARRY H. DURYEA Mrs. Duryea’s intimate portraits in bronze of her friends have won her much distinction as an artist. Between times she makes fascinating figurines and birds for table decora- tions, and sponsors many worth-while charities. Her principal occupation in life, how- ever, is carrying on the Carry-On Clubs for wounded and crippled ex-service men

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a FEBRUARY 1921 ALONG HER WARDROBE F all the many preoccupations which fascinate a woman, not one is more preoccupying nor more fascinating in these efficient days than the getting ready for a journey, for the delightful inventiveness of the modiste and cou- turier and the clever resourcefulness of the luggage- maker have transformed the old-time ordeal of packing into something very like a joyful fiesta. It is modish this season to stow away one’s be- longings in steamer, hat and wardrobe trunk of darkest blue or black, brass bound and nailed, the lining of self-colored brocaded linen or cotton fabric being of soft French blue, light enough to be dainty and yet dark enough not to soil too easily. The newest steamer trunk shows an in- novation almost too delightfully convenient to be true,—its upper tray is at first glance merely an unpartitioned receptacle, but on closer scrutiny it reveals at one end a set of flat hangers piled com- pactly one upon another. A spring is touched and lo, the tray stands upright; a complete little wardrobe it is, with hanging space for six frocks or wraps, while beneath is revealed a floor con- veniently fenced off into enclosures for shoes, dessous, accessories and hats. ND what shall one place in this gem of a sea- faring chest? Why not a frock of black serge, for one thing: a frock in one piece, cut on Straight graceful lines, high of throat, -long of sleeve and with a panel of black satin reaching from the left shoulder to the skirt’s border. And now a novel note: each long serge sleeve is gaunt- leted from wrist almost to shoulder with a loose mousquetaire oversleeve of black satin. A close turban of black satin should go into the appro- Priate compartment at the same time that this little frock is placed on its swinging hanger. Perhaps the steamer on which the tourist em- barks will follow a southerly course: in such case she would do well to include among her costumes de voyage a sports skirt and jacket of maize- colored crépe and woolen jersey, the silken skirt falling in graceful plaits, the woolen jacket em- broidered about its borders and at wrist and throat in white wool. A brimmed hat of white felt faced with dark green is the chapeau which should accompany a toilette such as this. FIFTH AVENUE THE FOR HER With th GADABOUT The tailleur in which the traveler ascends the gangplank, and which she will wear from time to time en route, is wisely of dark blue serge with applied collar, cuffs and border of the same fabric. These applied bands possess a marked cachet, for they are crossed by innumerable rows of black silk stitching and fastened with dull silver buttons. A top cloak, voluminous enough to slip on over a tailleur may be carried on the arm. Again dark blue is the most desirable color—dark blue lined and bordered with a gay Scotch tartan in green, blue and yellow. And next—a touch of coquetry—-the steamer blankets, deftly rolled and tucked into their round patent leather case are Vanity Case from Elizabeth Arden of soft camel’s hair in solid color, one of dark blue, the other of hunter’s green. Of admirable accessories in the way of hand luggage one might write on interminably. One of the most easily carried of these, perhaps, ‘as well as the smartest, is a fitted hand-bag of grained patent leather measuring some sixteen inches in TRIP 49 Luggage from Mark Cross TRAVELER MAY COMPLETE ABROAD length. It is of that quaint satchel-like design known as Victorian, and holds easily one’s over- night equipment of robe-de-nuit, dressing gown and slippers, as well as those toilet articles which are indispensable to the carefully groomed. A woman who is solicitous as to her beauty as well as to her grooming will carry in addition one of those completely equipped little traveling cases which are put up in these days by the lead ing beauty specialists. In it she will find lotions for freckles and powders for sunburn, as well as beautifying creams and rouges. If one is to motor at intervals from city to city, it is the part of wisdom to carry with one on a transatlantic trip a cleverly thought-out luncheon case. The most practical covering is black enamel cloth bound with leather, so snugly stitched that neither dust nor water can percolate its hermetic surface. The washable lining is an attractive feature, and the deftly arranged con- tents—such as agate-wear plates, cups and sand- wich box, thermos bottle and butter jar, knives, forks and spoons—are as light in weight as it is humanly possible to make them. Into the steamer trunk should go, if life afloat is to be thoroughly free from vexations, a skil- fully constructed writing-case of moderate size. A stiff blotter-pad, some eleven by thirteen inches, forms its base, and over this two flexible leather covers fold together; these after being clasped may be locked as well. Each cover contains pockets for stationery, calendar, inkwell, and all of the paraphernalia of polite correspondence. RE its owner closes the lid of her steamer trunk and pronounces it au fait, there is one other gown that should go into it. An afternoon frock of dark blue crépe de Chine, extremely smart and extremely simple in cut. A double sash might encircle its low waist-line, knotting itself on the left hip and falling at the side in a trailing streamer—a double sash, one strand of which might be of dark blue and the other of deep red Georgette. It may be discovered with out too great an effort at the bottom of page fifty. After the habit of the expert packer, the most essentially necessary of all articles were almost overlooked. How incomplete that steamer ward-

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50 Off fora quail hunt! Mr.and Mrs Mrs. Julian T. Bishop were married early in December. to robe which includes neither dressing-gown nor matinée! For chilly nights and mornings aboard ship, or on shore, for that matter, an enveloping mantle of cosily quilted charmeuse in plum blue indispensably useful as it is delightfully becoming, while for milder temperatures there is a delicious boudoir confection which meets a number of practical needs. It comes in two parts, its first being a straight sleeveless slip of soft rose crépe de Chine with a six-inch applied band of French blue crépe about the border in lieu of a hem. No opening mars its chemiselike breadth, and rose satin ribbons strap it over the shoulders. Over this is worn a boudoir adaptation of the tuxedo sweater—a jacket of rose crépe bordered and cuffed with deep bands of French blue and girdled at the waist with rose. In déshabillé such as this a woman has the air of being com- pletely attired—a convenient camouflage when one is put to the ordeal of threading a prolonged passageway from cabin to bath. At the bottom of page fifty-one they stand, these two _ utili- tarian robes intimes Is as AND as to underthings? The most luxurious of . women are often reduced to uncomfortable exigencies while ex tour. In the haste of travel one cannot always find, nor can one always de- pend upon, that important functionary of civil- ized life—the blanchisseuse. A maker of negli- gées and lingerie has contrived for the traveler a = Se nal _ First three models from Miss Carroll Irving Brokau little daughter, Lucile, dressed defy and her As chill winter winds ington—Mrs. Gurnee complete dessous of finest tricolette which she may order in a variety of colors. There is, to begin with, a combination which includes a surpliced camisole fringed about décolletage and armholes in matching silk. It is confined at the waist-line by an elastic ceinture which is attached in turn to the narrow elastic belt which holds the bloom ers in position. These, instead of being gathered at the knee, are allowed to hang unconfined by ribbon or rubber band and are attractively out- lined with silk fringe. A petticoat of tricolette, cleverly cut and fitted and charmingly scalloped and fringed about the border, is donned above the bloomered combination. One may obtain this complete dessous in delicate sand, gray or beige to be worn with corresponding frocks or shoes, and in white or flesh to be worn with evening gowns. Although as dainty as possible this con- venient silk underwear is also the very acme of practicality, for a few quarts of hot water, a cake of ivory soap and a basin of moderate size are all that are needed to restore it to pristine fresh- ness. As to robes-de-nuit, there is a classically simple nightdress of pale pink crépe banded about the neck and sleeves with picoted folds of the same fabric. This, like the underthings of tricolette, may be packed in the smallest possible space and may be thoroughly laundered at the smallest possible expenditure of time and energy. With hand and steamer luggage completely a Sey ee ee __ =o, York and Philadelphia as in Wash- well known in New Munn. HARPER’S BAZAR Taking a brisk walk on the Avenue, is Mrs. Hutchinson of Reginald New York. packed the prospective tourist turns to her spacious wardrobe trunk and hat box. What she will put in these depends, quite naturally, upon her itinerary. If London and Paris and the larger cities are her Meccas, then at least one formal evening gown must be included in the collection. A QUITE perfect model for the traveler is a gown of pale yellow charmeuse, the allure of which lies almost entirely in its long straight lines and skilfully draped folds. It is cut low enough to satisfy the most exigent requirements of an English mentor of modes and customs, and to meet these exigencies in full a panel train is in- cluded which may be detached later on if the wearer so wishes. Lest unbroken paleness and yellowness should suggest insipidity the gown is strapped at the shoulders with strands of vivid turquoises, and plaques of the same celestial stones confine the draperies at the right hip. Be she blonde, brunette or intermediately chétain of coloring every woman adores, above all things, an evening gown of filmy black. Into her wardrobe trunk should go, be her destination Christiania or Cairo, a dinner gown of fine black net with tunic and flounce of black Chantilly and a soft roll of black velvet at the neck-line. This becoming finish may be detachable, if one so wills it, and replaceable by folds of rose or blue or amber charmeuse. The evening wrap which one selects for a journey long or short may be used Models from J. M. Giddings

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FEBRUARY Helena Ogden and Katharine Lois W. Knapp starting out enthu- siastically for a shopping trip for afternoon functions as well as for opera or dance, if it is carefully chosen. Of heavy black satin lined with white and collared with some soft brown fur it will serve for both sun and candlelight, one will not tire of it as of a wrap in brecade or vivid color no matter how often one may wear it, and the straight medizval neck- line and double-breasted fastening give it a marked smartness despite its somber coloring. A costume for formal daytime affairs is an im- portant feature of a European traveler’s outfit. Beige satin, high-throated and short-sleeved and inset with panels of matching chiffon, is a happy selection for a gown such as this. A peplum formed from a scarf of deeply tucked chiffon draped high on the skirt’s left side and falling low on the right is an ineffably attractive detail of the gown, as are the pumps of beige suéde, the beige silken hose and long gloves, and the becom- ing beige chapeau and veil worn with it. That she may be thoroughly convinced, the reader should here direct her gaze to the bottom of page fifty. FQuiPpPED according to these suggestions a woman may be appropriately and daintily arrayed throughout a foreign trip, and may still have space left in her luggage for frocks and furbelows purchased in Paris. But the voyager may have entered in her engagement book a pro longed stay on the Riviera, a visit as house guest at some noble chateau, and a season of gaiety in London. She will then wish to carry with her the gowns and cloaks and accessories that she will need for such an inclusive variety of social demands. A ball gown or two of the lighter, fluffier type would be in- valuable adjuncts, and from a great French creator comes just the model one would choose. Pale blue souffle de soie is the diapha- nous fabric of which it is com- posed, and the couturier has made it puff and billow enchant- ingly over a short, scant petti- coat of white lace. The corsage is altogether sleeveless and the décolletage is cut in the deepest of Vs, both in front and back. The waist-line is definitely indi- cated, not by a ceinture but by the close draping of the fabric about the figure. At the left side, placed low on the corsage, is a cluster of pink tulle roses, and again on the skirt drapery just above the left ankle clusters a second mass of these fairylike blooms. Flesh satin slippers and silk stockings complete the gown. Meredith and “Black”, Judith Smith is the daughter the dog presented to her by of Mr. and Mrs. George Hun- Albert, King of the Belgians ter Smith of New NOTHER evening gown of great charm and one which may be worn to opera, dinner or ball with equal applicability is of white net cov- ered with a fine intricate design done in silver thread. The corsage is close, sleeveless and cut at the décolletage in a straight line across the bust and shoulders, in early-Victorian style. The skirt is very full and broadly buckrammed at the hips and quite short enough to display Cinderellalike silver slippers and silken ankles below its hem. The semi-transparent net is worn over an under slip of palest nYauve and a cluster of delicate heliotrope blossoms and _ blue forget-me-nots tinged with pink nestle at the ceinture. Inch- wide strands of pale mauve ribbon depend from this small corsage bouquet. A coat-dress cut after the redingote of the Di- rectorate may be a dream of smartness and just the thing for those elegant daytime functions which characterize Continental life. One of these has been recently developed in heavy black satin and black faille, and in it any woman needs must look her best! A broad panel of satin forms the entire front of the costume from high collar to skirt’s border,as a second panel forms the entire back. The sides and sleeves are of finely accordion- plaited faille, and here is the creator’s opportunity: the fulness of the gown’s plaiting he confines at the waist-line by means of a narrow black ribbon girdle, but the fulness of the sleeves he gathers slightly in several rows of shirring at the shoul- der and then allows them to fall free and uncon- fined almost to the wrists. The inside of the Vr. Mrs. Porter Hoag land returning from their ex- and York. tended European wedding trip. sleeves he lines to the shoulder with frill upon frill of creamy inch-wide Valenciennes, and to complete the picture, the high collar, open in front and standing well away from the throat, he faces with corresponding frills of lace. A close satin turban, across which is pinned a veil of black Spanish lace, with graceful floating ends is the most appropriate chapeau for this dis tinguished robe of black. OTH country house and Riviera will call into requisition an array of smart sports and mourning frocks. An irresistibly piquant little robe of this type has been constructed by a well known house for a well-known New York bride It is of black taffeta and is cut after the straight chemise model as to corsage and skirt, having, ' however, a high collar-line in the back, a V collar line in the front and long close sleeves. From edge of hem to a point well above the knees the skirt is covered with row above row of white soutache braid some three-quarters of an inch in width. An interval of black taffeta two inches wide is allowed to show its surface, and then a single banding of inch-wide soutache encircles the skirt. The sleeves from wrist to elbow follow a similar treatment, which gives them the effect of being deeply cuffed in white. A turned-back collar of white flannel finishes the throat-line creamy pearl buttons confine the corsage from collar to waist, and then the piéce de résistance! the gown is closely girdled just at the waist line with a narrow belt of scarlet patent leather. Straight frocks of white flannel or crépe de Chine with accom- panying hats, capes or scarves of orange, blue or carmine are quite lovely for sub-tropical environs, while a tailored tweed or two in browns or greens is useful further north. If one is a spectator of, rather than a _ participant in, sports, nothing could be better for a mild climate in early springtime than a gown skirted with gaily printed foulard and bodiced in a plain dark color. With smart shoulder cape and bright hat a gown such as this is part of a verdant out-of-door picture. The great value of plaid is never realized to the full until one is wondering what will be the right thing for open-air amusements in a moderate cli mate and under a grayish sky. The tartans of rugged Scotland in their various colors are un- surpassed for costumes such as these. Models from Le Petit Boudoir

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Though that stupendous extravaganza“ Mecca” hasa score of well-known play- ers, it is Martha Lorber (above) whom the audi- ence is sure to remember. And it is Martha Lorber’s dancing of the Fokine bac- chanal that they are talk- ing of as they leave the theatre. Martha Lorber is also pictured at the right. Florence O’Denishawn (left) is an extraordinary feature of Hitchy’s newest “Hitchy Koo”, his most elaborate and, many say, ly far his best production. HARPER’S BAZAR Portrait Studies Nickolas Wuray

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for FEBRUARY L921 Ben-Ami (above) has giv- w York a new thrill in mson and Delilah”. The critics’ columns re- sound with praise of his unique performances. In “Sally” —Ziegfeld’s new- est production — Marilynn Miller (left) mot only dances better than ever, but, wonder of wonders, she sings beautifully Though Marilynn Miller and Leon Errol are the electric light stars of “Sally”, how the programs do rustle when Mary Hay (seen at the right) appears. Portrait Stud

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S the car gently whirred along the white road that endlessly unwound towards the horizon, the uneasiness which for an hour had hung over Barbara grew more intense. The young man by her side was silent, and that in him was rather unusual, for the charm of Maurice Kynance lay in his vitality, in laughter easily roused, in a lightness underlaid by a certain earnestness. And Barbara knew without know- ing, because she did not want to know what it was that oppressed the young man. It delighted and terrified her. That sense of inevitable words and of acts that might be fatal shook her, because every day lately she had grown more conscious that soon she must answer him. And since she knew that she might not give him what he wanted, and yet must, upon the nega- tive, hazard a relation every day more dear, the resource which she had gained as a woman of the world seemed about to fail her. So she shrank away from him; splendid woman of forty as she was, proud and strong-limbed, the blue eyes that shone so brilliantly in the pale, almost unlined face, and the heavy crown of red hair, did not prevent her from seeming small and helpless. For she was in the presence of necessity, before which all human creatures are reduced. So she did not interrupt his brooding, and as the road unwound and the car hurried through silent villages, she dazzled her eyes by staring at the flying curtains of silver birches. She thought: “T don’t want to think,” and absorbed herself in the impersonal contemplation of the young man’s dark face, of the adorable line of his cheek, from hard chin to small ear, where the black hair curled short and virile. Stooping forward, his gray eyes set upon the sky-line, his big gauntleted hands on the steering-wheel, his well-cut lips closed and firm, he looked like a charioteer. HEN, in the shade of a small wood, Maurice did one of the characteristic, impetuous things that expressed his adorable youth; without any warning he put on all the brakes, and while Bar- bara readjusted her shaken body, turned to her and said: “Barbara, will you marry me?” She did not reply for some So it had come. ESA #9 WINTER ROSES By W. L. GEORGE isher Illustrated by William F time. Her hands clasped before her, she looked away from him, and the undying voice of her desire called to her: “Forty! You're nearly forty-one. Why didn’t he come twenty years ago? Why were you married? Unhappy? Widowed?” But the young man was urgent and would not let her think. He leaned forward, seized both her hands, and she stiffened as he tried to draw her close. She had to move away, for Maurice Kynance was twenty-nine, and though his name had more than once been whispered as that of a gallant, he was still too young to woo by pas- sivity; as yet he understood only conquest. “Barbara,” he repeated, “you haven’t answered me. Please, Barbara, speak. You don’t know how I love you, and I don’t know how to tell you. But I do, I adore you. All these months, from the first moment ! saw you, I wanted you.” The woman shook her head. “Don’t, Maurice.” “How, don’t?” cried the young man with sud- den anxiety in his voice and also incredulity, as if he could not believe that his triumphant youth might be denied. “It’s impossible,” said Barbara. FTER a moment he said: “I ought to have known. Of course, it was presumptuous in a way. Who am I after all?—by the side of a woman like you, the loveliest woman in the country. I suppose there are lots of men who \ant to marry you.” “It’s not that, Maurice,” said Barbara in a weak voice, which promised tears. “But then, why?” he cried, irritated, crushing her hands so that she struggled. His grasp hurt, yet she felt delight in her own suffering. “I’m not asking you to love me. I’m asking you to let me love you. I don’t ask you to be mine just yet; I just want to be yours, yours. Don’t you care for me at all?” Then he stared at her in surprise, for, snatching away her hands, she fumbled for her handkerchief and in a moment was weeping, leaving him em- barrassed, knowing neither what to do nor what to say. By good fortune, he did the best he could have done—did nothing. When at last her sobs subsided, Barbara turned to him and tried to smile. AIR OR en TA iC TE RIE Cae HARPER’S BAZAR (EE a atte as.. I’m very, very “Maurice, don’t think me silly. glad you love me, and I want you to care for me all your life—if you can, for there’s so much more love before you than before me. You see, that’s it. I’m nearly forty-one, and you're twenty-nine. Dear, dear Maurice, we couldn’t do it. Perhaps you didn’t know.” “Know!” cried the young man, petulantly, as if offended by this criticism of his sagacity. “Of course I knew. I knew you were a little older than I, but, Barbara darling, you’re not forty-one. You may think you’re forty-one, but I say you're twenty-nine. You'll always be twenty-nine.” SHE laughed. “Oh, you unskilled lover!” she said. “Don’t you know that women of forty- one always say they’re twenty-nine? It’s never twenty-eight or thirty; it’s always twenty-nine.” But he was still serious. “I don’t care what women say. You're twenty-nine. And if you aren’t, then you look it, and indeed a little less.” “No, Maurice,” she said, gravely, “I may be a well-restored antique, but I am an antique and I sha’n’t last. I can’t marry you. To begin with, it would make you ridiculous—and me, too.” “Oh, who cares what they say!” “Neither of us just now. But we might later, when you’ve got used to me.” He seized her arm. “How dare you say a thing like that? How can I ever get used to you? For months I’ve seen you grow more wonderful every day.” if we married, you’d find I shouldn’t grow more wonderful every day. Marriage 1s different. I’ve been married, and marriage is never very easy. It’s easier with a young girl. But if you married me, you’d find me old in four or five years.” “Don’t you care for me?” said Maurice, after a pause. ARBARA clasped her bands hard. She knew that she ought to discourage him, hurt him, so that he might go away to his inevitable happi- ness. But she could not lie to him, because she would not lie to herself. So she said: “Yes, Maurice, I do love you. But because I love you I won’t marry you.”

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FEBRUARY for J Barbara broke off one of the flowers and slipped it into her thick tresses, and said: “Trene, I’ll drink your health. May your path in life be strewn with yellow roses!” “You talk like a woman in a play,” said the young man, angrily, and started the car with a violence suggesting that his feelings demanded the relief which a man of lower culture would have found in striking her. They did not speak again for an hour until they said good-by at the gate of her house. And even then he merely said: “I shal! ask you until you say ‘yes’.” HEN she was alone, exhausted by the con- flict of her emotions, Barbara lay down on her bed. Her head ached, and as the evening drew near, grew worse and worse. She felt that she had been right, and yet no self-complacent glow was granted her. She thought now entirely of herself; what was she going to do? She loved the young man. Half the attraction lay in his youth. And unless she would destroy him, she must overcome him. Her maid was _horror- stricken when she came in to lay out her evening frock, for her mistress lay face down upon the pillow, and when she sat up her eyes were red and swollen . . but Barbara knew that what- ever body may lie moldering in the grave, gloria! gloria! hallelujah! life goes marching on. So, an hour later, she had performed the fre- auent miracle of suffering woman; she was dining 4, and laughing. At an improvised dance, iter, she sparkled in almost unhealthy t. Now and then she thought of the ngineer, wondered whether he sat alone in ious rooms, or whether he, too, feasted. he, too, was dancing . . With some ‘l, some child of twenty. No doubt the falling in love with him. She laughed aloud, and her blue eyes blazed at the thought, so that her partner, as they danced, murmured to her: “I’ve never seen you so beautiful.” As she closed the house door behind her and switched on the light, Barbara knew that she expected something, that such a day could not yet be done. It was as if something material waited for her in the hall. Then, upon the table, she saw an envelop addressed to her in his familiar writing. As she tore it open, she saw that the letter was quite short: “T CAN only say it again. I love you, and I'll never tire of saying it. I have never loved anybody before, and so I know that I love you because it’s different from anything I ever felt. So you must marry me, because if you don’t I'll kill myself. Please believe I am not being melo- dramatic. There are plenty of drugs that finish you off easily, and if I can’t have you, I see nothing else for it. And you must let me know before to-morrow night. Maurice.” Barbara stood for a long time in the hall, the letter in her hand. She didn’t believe that he would kill himself: everybody thinks of suicide some time in their youth, and hardly anybody But the intensity of his passion shook her, coalesced with her own desire. Aloud she whispered: “I ought not to do it, but I can’t help it.” does it. ND all.that night, as she lay awake, she visual- ized the future. She would get old so fast, and he so slowly. He would miss the lightness that youth desires, though it always strives to be earnest. He would want his freedom, and be- cause he had forced her to marry him he would think himself responsible and hate her for making him responsible. But as at dawn she opened the window, and the air grew warm, she could think only of the incredible delight which had come to her so late in life, still, perhaps, not too late ARBARA Kynance sat in the drawing-room. She was very happy. She had been married a year, and now, lying back, her splendid white shoulders emerging from a filmy frock of green crépe Georgette, held by two thin gold bands studded with emeralds and garnets, she looked young and as if conscious that nothing could harm her. She had just come down from the nursery where her two-months-old son lay asleep. He had his father’s gray (Concluded on page 78)

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HARPER’S BAZ&A Vodels from Thurn Against the gray sand dunes of a summer’s day or on a broad stretch oj velvety lawn imagine this frock of heavy orange-brown linen embroidered in white floss and banded about the girdle and collar with strappings of black patent leather. BEAUTIFUL WILL O matter how much we may enjoy the snows and sports and formalities of winter in town or country, no matter how deeply the languors of springtime may depress us, there is one preoccupa- tion of that season which is a perennial joy—the selection of our early summer clothes. The serges and silks and chiffons, which for many years have usurped the place of the cottons and linens and ginghams, are on Dame Fashion’s blue list for the season of 1921, but while on it they do not fill it. Warm weather will see a blossoming forth of heavy linen, airy batiste and soft clinging cottons in the liveliest of colors. LINENS BE AND WORN FOR Perfect for grayish seaside days are straight frocks of coarse linen in vivid colors, banded with leather or embroidered in heavy silk. Most apropos for a warm day in town are gowns of a new fabric called cotton chiffon which may be knife or ac- cordion plaited with delightful effect. In taupe or sand this novel material is unusually charming and delightfully comfortable. At tea-time on an awninged veranda snowy batiste with all-over design in eyelet embroidery is a sight to refresh eyes which are jaded by the glare of a June sun on a blazing tennis court, while for a lawn féte the most perfect confection is a frock of filmy mull made with a jaunty sash A strapping of leather shows on the skirt as well. FILMY COTTONS SUMMER and tablier and showing innumerable rows of in- finitely fine tucking. A mere thread of Valen- ciennes edging may outline the frills which adorn this exquisite type of frock, and a broad hat of matching fabric may appropriately crown it. The sunshade, as well as the gown of summery fabric, will appear in all its glory this season and one of the best-liked types for town as well as country will show a rather small frame with sticks well rounded and the handle and ferule decidedly stubby in outline. It will be covered often with plain white silk, although it will be seen as well in colors bright or dark, and will give, of course, the final cachet to the costume.

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for FEBRUARY One looks forward in the midst of snows and icy blasts to those first warm days of early summer when one may don a frock of delicate batiste such as the one above. Girdled with burnt orange moiré ribbon it is as subtly characterful as it is becoming. On the left Thurn shows us a dream of a frock in heavy linen; the tunic skirt of deep rose, the corsage of white. Rose organdie forms the dainty gilet and elbow cuffs, and veils as well the straw chapeau which crowns a glow- ing gown for a glorious summer day. At all seasons French blue is delightful but in summer it is indispensable. It confronts us on the right in heavy linen, very simply cut and fashioned and treated as a background for a kid belt colored in tones of rose, black and lemon yellow. The hat is vivid red.

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ur oO NEW FABRICS FOR THE SPRING TAILLEUR Martial and Armand ripple the short skirt of a smart new jacket and trim it with black braid. The ‘ sleeves and the oddly gathered fronts are well worth noticing. MILER S@URS Pale gray cloth provides an admirable background for bands of drawn-work. The wide sleeves fastened with smoked pearl buttons suggest the interesting new designs for summer. The sash is taffeta. HE new beige shades of Rodier’s spring fabrics are lovely. In fact, a perfect stream of beige runs through the entire collection. There are wool fabrics in plain beige, and there are others striped with colors or embroidered with black or col- ored wool, and, of course, we find beige em- broideries on stuffs of every color. “Les Motifs Afghans,” for instance, is beige wool crépe em- broidered with white wool. These odd, widely- spaced motifs come also in green, brick red, violet or black on a beige ground. Then there is “Djersa-Bullaine’—a beige wool jersey which is apparently stitched in diamonds and beige and green and rust-colored netted wool insertion in dark blue Lisselaine. Startling indeed are the checks and plaids show ing colored bars embroidered with black or colors. A Scotch plaid serge in dark blue, green and black is crossed at four-inch intervals with narrow bars of red, partially blotted out with black embroid- ery. A diagonal plaid formed of bars of yellow about a third of an inch wide and spaced about three inches apart is embroidered by machine onto a black-and-white cheviot-serge background. The effect of the diagonal crossed bars of yellow on the straight black-and-white check is very odd. This novel machine embroidery over checks and stripes is a Rodier conception. Groups of four or five black stripes in black-and-white checked stuffs are embroidered over by machine with green, violet, yellow, red or blue. Sometimes these em- broidered bars form a large plaid on the checked fabrics. Again, groups of small squares of colored embroidery—the small black squares only being covered with embroidery—appear on checked fabrics in black-and-white or brown-and-white. All these embroidered stripes and plaids are notice- ably in relief. Embroidery in relief, indeed, is seen all through the Rodier collection. ‘“La Gerbe Japonaise” is the name given to rust-brown astarté embroidered in relief with clusters of beige branches tufted with green pine needles and brown twigs bearing \ et Rv finad ; \, r Y MARTIAL et ARM. Black silk braid embroidered with red is one of Martial and Armand’s spring conceits. They use it for the corsage of a black serge dress, and also for the high collar, arranged to leave the throat curiously bare. il {ND HARPER’S BAZAR The loose knee-length coat has many adherents, for it is practical and at the same time most becom- ing. As made of dark blue cloth by Martial and Armand, it has bands of black and green soutache. Madame Renée shows her approval of youthful simplicity when she creates a graceful frock of fine cloth in one of the new beige tones. Black satin sashes and bands it ef- fectively. The back is bloused too The new siriped beige is smartly com- bined with brown for the sleeveless coat of a traveling dress of beige bure. The straight wide sleeves of the tailleur with striped cuffs harmonize with the coat.

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The little blouse of a two-piece frock by Odette fits the figure rather closely at the waist-line and is drawn down slightly over the skirt. The fabric is white silk tricot and the bands are taffeta. Silken sashes and girdles will grace the summer gowns of muslin as well as silk. Renée sashes a de- mure little frock of mauve linon for FEBRUARY 1921 YOUTHFUL GOWNS OF SILK AND MUSLIN Miler Sa@urs tucks rose pink organ- die in groups of three and edges the flounces and bodice with knife plaitings of fine white net. The in a deeper shade of mauve. One sash end loops under edge of skirt. girdle is of two-toned blue velvet. GDETT I MILER SG@URS ( TA) RENEE Black and red braid and stitching trim a Lelong day- time dress of heavy white shantung. The wide sleeves are of Georgette crépe and the skirt is attached to a band of Georgette forming the lower part of bodice. white cherry blossoms. This design appears again in branches of green pine having blue stems dotted with white flowers on dark blue wool fabric. Beige crepella is bordered with a mossy embroid- ery in red. There is much embroidery done with the thick irregular cord-like threads. employed in “flammeola”—colored threads on serge and other dark wool stuffs as well as on cotton fabrics. A beige wool crépe is embroidered in widely-spaced motifs in rust-colored wool on the beige ground. Cream-colored kasha is embroidered in relief with oddly-spaced triangles of red outlined delicately with black and separated by embroidered stripes in red and black. LL these embroideries—and many more—are in- teresting, but most striking of all the Rodier stuffs are the double fabrics—thin white muslin embroidered or “quilted’”’ onto thin white cotton crépe. The surface has a slightly puckered ap- pearance exactly resembling quilting which is ex- tremely odd and new. In one case the thin white linon is embroidered or stitched onto the crépe with white thread, with motifs of beige thread embroidery rather widely spaced. In another in- stance, the white linon is embroidered onto the crépe foundation with yellow thread—a meander- ing, all-over design. Again, this quilted effect forms a border on thin muslin. Blouses, waist- coats and jackets will be made of this odd fabric, of which Rodier may justly be proud. Very lovely is “Linetta”—spiky green branches LELONG \ bearing red and blue flowers arranged in a strag- aN gling all-over pattern on white linon. This de- MILER = AS sign is exquisite in two shades of violet and black SEURS on a white ground—the embroidery done in vege- table silk on the dull-surfaced white cotton. The MARTIAL et ARMAND same colors on buff linon are pretty also, while a we similar design is embroidered with gold and silver A graceful variation of the narrow sil- on white voile striped with flammeola. houette is shown in a Martial and Les Broderies Floconna” is the name given to Armand tailleur of dark blue taffeta. a cotton crépe, pretty in rose or mauve, bearing a R li h 1 self-tone design in mousse embroidery that, like ose muslin faces the collar and the all the new cotton embroideries, is delightful. bands are of bright rose colored kid. Miler Seurs draw a broad pointed collar over the top of the tiny sleeves of a white crépe de Chine dress to form a cape. The back of the dress and the front of the tunic are stitched in white.

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HARPER’*’S &§ eed Tra I... Hill’s Studio PAUL ABBOTT Mrs. Abbott, formeriy Elise Everett, the only daughter of Mr. and Mrs. A. Leo Everett, of New York, chose Thanksgiving Day, the anniversary of her début, for her wedding day. The ceremony at the Church of the Transfiguration and the reception at the Colony Club brought together many of the bride’s fellow members of the Junior League. The exquisite veil worn by Mrs. Abbott belonged to her great-grandmother, and had been worn by four other brides in the family.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 61 OH, LADY, BE MY VALENTINE! Silhouettes by E. O. Hoppe Verses by Hildegard Flanner and PZ V. A. Weaver Collecting silhouettes is a fad of the moment. Everyone is doing it, especially for valentines. Also everyone has been dropping in at E. O. Hoppe’s exhibition of satiric silhouettes, for they are the most fascinating and amusing black and whites ever seen in New York. ENCHANTMENT TO YOUR VANITY Sing not of Orpheus or Apollo—hush! Lady, my music putteth both to blush. The festive squirrel and eke the nimble rabbit Find it a pleasing, stimulating habit To yield themselves up to the fascination Engendered by my charming syncopation. The hart hath oft-times found it so enchanting, He ceaseth from his customary panting. And faith! the fulsome praises | have heard From many a quite discriminating bird. ... I will not give you gold Nor jewels rare. They would be dim and cold Beside your hair. ll not give ivory Nor tissues white. Within your hands they’d be A piteous sight. My gift is but advice, Which, if you take, A very paradise Of earth will make. Only yourself have scorned this art of mine — Lady, relent. Oh, be my Valentine! Look in your glass and straightway see My Valentine that is to be. MY DEAR, MY DEAR! STAG AT EVE Madame, your playful modesty The stag at eve had drunk his fill, SAGESSE In sooth is quite perverted. ‘Fol de rol de Bevo!) There’s a bare reason, ’tis plain to see, The huntsman he was dressed to kill, Why you might be disconcerted. (Fol de rol, etc.) Is ours a “simian world”, dear Valentine? Lady, I’ll not ask for wine | can believe ’tis such, since | met thee: But alas! And fie upon your pride! If you will heed this plea of mine: Those sweet, bewitching little ways of thine Will your reluctant pose abide I pray you, be my Valentine. Have surely made a simian of me. Until your faithful swain has died? (Hey! Hey! the home-brew!

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HARPER’S BAZAR

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for FEBRUARY 1921 VY" feave ~ gud

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a: 1 . = , | HARPER’S BAZAR The erstwhile Mathilde Saportas, daughter of Mrs. Renia B. Saportas, enjoys the distinction of having become a bride before making her début. Last winter she played about with the younger girls who are coming out this year and was a great favorite with everyone. In the spring her engagement was announced and she was married in June at the Plaza in New York. Campbell Studio

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FEBRUARY 1921 Pair of blue and gilt straw- berry topped vases, with se- pia vignettes. 18 inches, decorated with Spanish coat-of-arms, red and gold. R. W. Lehne. The trencher and plates show the Duke of Hamilton’s crest. The teapot, water-bottle and basin, that of the Cavendish family. The Continental. Richard W. Lehne. Upper left. THE ACQUISITIVE CONNOISSEUR By ELIZABETH LOUNSBERY Lowestoft Porcelain England 1756-1804, Blue and gold soup tureen and tray, soup and dinner plates, gravy and sauce boats, from an eighteenth century dinner service. F the various potteries and porcelain of early English make there is none whose history is as baffling as that of Lowestoft. On this, china collectors are divided into those who believe that it was an Oriental porcelain decorated in En- gland, at the town of that name, and those who think that the decoration, as well as the porcelain, was made in China. In any case, during the period of its manufacture, it came into popular use in England and America, in dinner and tea services, punch-bowls and mugs, most of which were unmarked. The glaze of Lowestoft is of a fine pearly tint, suggestive of Chinese porcelain, while the decorations, such as the rose, blue bands or dots, coats-of-arms or flowers and sprigs, are characteristically English. Platter, 18 inches, with festoons and armorial Gold banded platter, orange peel glaze, with crest. Below, a plate from a thou- sand-piece dinner service. Right. Rose dec- orated platter and tureen. Sun Dial Shop. 65 Rare exam- ples. Height 15 inches, Courtesy of Sun Dial Shop. Photographs by Mattie Edwards Hewitt decorations, black and gold. R. W. Lehne. Bouillon cup, relish dishes, gravy boat and helmet pitcher from Cavendish dinner service. R.W.Lehne. Milk jug, teapot and caddy, early eighteenth century. From Sun Dial Shop.

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60 me ee RS eR + By G ITllust there. most notable Outside the window stood a bowl of goldfish, and Gale stopped abruptly and stared at it as if he had never seen such a thing before. IVE men had halted at the top of a hill overlooking a valley beautiful enough to be called a vision, but too neglected ever to have been vulgarized by being called a view. They were, or were supposed to be, a sketching club on a walking tour; but when they had come to that place they did no more walking and, strangely enough, very little sketching. It was as if they had come to some quiet end of the world; that corner of the earth seemed to have a curious effect on them, varying with their various personalities, but acting on all as something arresting and vaguely final. Yet the quality was as nameless as it was unique; there was nothing definably different from twenty other wooded valleys in those western shires upon the marches of Wales. Green slopes dived into a fringe of dark forests that looked black by comparison, but the gray columns of which were mirrored in the curving river like a long winding colonnade. Only a little way along, on one side of the river, the bank was cleared of timber and formed a platform for old gardens and orchards, in the midst of which stood a tall old house of a rich brown brick with blue shutters and rather neg- lected creepers clinging to it more like moss to a stone than like flowers to a flower-bed. The roof was flat with a chimney near the center of it, from which a thin thread of smoke was drawn up into the sky—the only sign that the house was not wholly deserted. Of the five men who looked down at the landscape, only one had any special reason for looking at the house. HE eldest of the artists, a dark, active, ambi- tious man in spectacles, destined to be famous afterwards under the name of Luke Galton, was affected by the place in a curious fashion. It seemed to tease him like a fly or something elusive; he could not please himself with a point of view, but was perpetually shifting his camp-stool from place to place, crossing and recrossing the theatre of these events, amid the jeers of his companions. The second, a heavy, fair-haired man named Hutton, stared at the scene in a somewhat bovine fashion, made a few lines on a sketching-block, and then announced in a loud voice that it was a good place for a picnic and that he was going to have his lunch. The third painter agreed with him, but as he was said to be a poet as well as a painter, he was expected to show a certain fervor for any oppor tunities of avoiding work. Indeed, this particular artist, whose name was Gale, did not seem dis- posed even to look at the landscape, far less to paint it. After taking a bite out of a ham sand- wich and a swig at somebody else’s flask of claret, he incontinently lay down on his back under a tree and stared up at the twilight of twinkling leaves; some believing him to be asleep, while others more generously supposed him to be composing poetry. HE fourth, a smaller and more alert man, named Garth, could only be regarded as an honorary member of the artistic group, for he was more in- terested in science than in art and carried not a paint-box but a camera. Nevertheless, he was not without an intelligent appreciation of scenery, and he was in the act of fixing up his photographic apparatus, so that it covered the angle of the river, where stood the neglected garden and the distant house. At that moment the fifth man, who had not yet moved or spoken, made so abrupt and arresting a gesture that one might say that he knocked up the camera, like a gun pointed to kill. “Don't,” he said; “it’s bad enough when they try to paint it.” “What's the matter?” asked Garth; “don’t you like that house ?” “T like it too much,” said the other. I love it too much to like it at all.” The fifth man who spoke was the youngest of the party, but he had already at least some local success and celebrity, partly because he had de- voted his talent to the landscape and legends of that countryside, and partly because he came of a family of small squires whose name was historic in those hills. He was tall, with dark brown hair and a long brown face with a high-bridged nose, that looked rather distinguished than handsome; and there was a permanent cloud of consideration on his brow that made him look much older than his years. He alone of all these men had made no gesture either of labor or relaxation on coming to the crest of the hill. “Or, rather, HILE Galton went to and fro, and Hutton started cheerfully on his meal, and Gale flung himself on the couch of leaves to look up into the tree tops, this man had stood like a statue looking across the valley to the house, and it was only when Garth pointed his camera that he had even lifted a hand. Garth turned on him a humorous face, in spite of its hard angular features, for the little scientist was a man of admirable good temper. “T suppose there’s a story about it,” he said. “You look as if you were in quite a confidential mood. If you like to tell me, I assure you I can keep a secret. I’m a medical man and have to keep many secrets, especially those of the insane. That ought to encourage you.” rated by E HARPER’S BAZAR THE YELLOW BIRD K. CHESTERTON verett Shinn (Third Episode) “The Ignorance of the Educated,” “Shall We Abolish the Inevitable” and “The Perils of Health” will be used as lecture titles when the sprightly, ponderous Gilbert K. Chesterton handsprings into the long line of lecturing authors from over there, and there, and G. K.C. will give his New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington admirers an opportunity to stare, but it is not on the cards that he will venture into the western fastnesses inhabited, as all good Londoners know, by buffalo and hunting redskins. “The Yellow Bird” is, without a doubt, one of the examples fiction, with its stranger than strange theme and its unusual basic idea which is, oddly, the cube root of six insane notions. nothing—according to G. K. C. of Chesterton’s parabolic Anything that means anything is The younger man, whose name was John Mal- low, continued to gaze moodily across the valley, but there was something about him that suggested that the other had guessed right, and he was about to speak. “Don’t bother about the others,” said Garth. “They can’t hear; they’re too busy doing noth- ing. Hutton!” he called out in much more stri- dent tones. “Gale! Are you fellows listening?” “Yes. I’m listening to the birds,” came the half- buried voice of Gale out of his leafy lair. “Hutton’s asleep,” observed Garth with satis- faction. “No wonder, after all that lunch. Are you asleep, Gale?” “Not asleep, but dreaming,” answered the other. “If you look up long enough there isn’t any more up or down, but a sort of green dizzy dream, with birds that might as well be fishes. They’re just odd shapes of different colors floating about against the green, brown and gray, and one of them looks quite yellow.” “A yellowhammer, I suppose,” remarked Garth. “It doesn’t look like a hammer,” said Gale, sleepily, “not such an odd shape as all that.” “Ass!” said Garth, briefly. “Did you expect it to look like an auctioneer’s hammer? You poets, who are so strong about nature, are generally weak in natural history. Well, Mallow,” he added, turn- ing to his companion, “you’ve nothing to fear from them, if you like to talk in an ordinary voice. What about this house of yours?” “TT's not mine,” said Mallow. “As a matter of fact, it belongs to an old friend of my mother’s, a Mrs. Verney, a widow. The place has very much run to seed now, as you see, for the Verneys have got poorer and poorer and don’t know what to do next, which is the beginning of the trouble. But I have passed happier times there than I shall probably ever have again.” “Was Mrs. Verney so enchanting a character?” asked his friend softly. “Or may I take the lib- erty of supposing that there was a rising gen- eration ?” “Unfortunately for me, it is a very rising gen- eration,” replied Mallow. “It rises in a sort of small revolution, and it rises rather above my head.” Then, after a silence, he said, somewhat abruptly, “Do you believe in lady doctors?” “I don’t believe in any doctors,” answered Garth. “I’m one myself.” “Well, it isn’t exactly lady doctors, I believe, but it’s something of that sort;” went on Mallow, “study of psychological science, and so on. Laura has got it very badly, and is helping some Russian psychologist or other.” “Your narrative style is a little sketchy,” re-

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FEBRUARY 1921 marked Dr. Garth, “but I suppose I may infer that Laura is a daughter of Mrs. Verney, and also that Laura has some logical connection with the happy days that will not return.” “GUPPOSE it all and have done with it,” replied the young man. “You know what I mean, but the real point is this: Laura has all the new ideas, and has persuaded her mother to come down off the high horse of genteel poverty in all orts of ways. I don’t say she’s not right in that; but, as it works out, there are some curious com- plications. For one thing, Laura not only earns her own living, but earns it in the laboratory of this mysterious Muscovite; and for another, she hes bounced her mother into taking a paying guest. And the paying guest is the mysterious Muscovite again, who wants a quiet rest in the country.” “And I suppose I may take it,” said the doctor, “that you feel there is a little too much of the Muscovite in your young life.” “As a matter of fact, he moved into the house late last night,” continued Mallow, “and I sup- pose that’s really why I drifted in this direction this morning, trailing you all at my heels. I said it was a beautiful place, and so it is; but all the came I had a vague sort of feeling I should like to be somewhere near.” “And as you couldn’t get rid of us, you've brought us along,’ said Garth, with a smile. “Well, I think I can understand that. Do you know anything about this Russian professor?” “I know nothing whatever against him,” answered the other. “He is a very famous man both in science and politics. He escaped from a Siberian prison in the old days by blowing up the wall with a bomb of his own construction. It’s quite an exciting story, and he must at least be a man of courage. He has written a great book called ‘The Psychology of Liberty,’ I believe, and L aura is very keen on his views. “It’s rather an indescribable thing altogether. She and I are very fond of each other, and I don't think she mistakes me for a fool, and I don’t think I am a fool. But whenever we have met lately, it has been literally like a meeting on a highroad, when two people are going opposite ways. And I think I know what it is: she is always going out- wards and I am always going inwards. The more I see of the world, and the more men I meet, or books I read, or questions I answer, the more I come back with increased conviction -to those places where I was born, or played as a boy, nar- rowing my circles like a bird going back to a nest. That seems to me the end of all travel, and espe cially of the wildest travel; to get home. **RUT she has another idea in her mind. It’s not only that she says that old brown brick house is like a prison, or that the hills are like walls shutting her in; I dare say things do get pretty dull in such a place. There’s a theory in it, too, which I suppose she’s got from her psychological friend. “She says that even in her own valley, and in her own garden, the trees only grow because they radiate outwards, which is only the Latin for branching. She says the very word ‘radiant’ shows it is the secret of happiness. There is something in it, I suppose; but I radiate inwards, so to speak. That is why I paint all my pictures of this little corner of the world. If I could only paint this valley I might go on to paint that garden; and if only I could paint that garden, I might be worthy to paint the creeper under her window.” 67 The sleeping Hutton awoke with an uproarious yawn, and, lifting. himself from his bed of leaves, wandered away to where the more industrious Galton had at last settled down to work on the other side of the hill. But the poet Gale still lay gazing at his topsy-turveydom of tree tops. And the only reply he would make to a further chal lenge from Garth was to say, heavily, ‘“They’ve driven the yellow one away.” - HAT have driven what away?” demanded - Mallow, rather irritably “The other birds attacked the yellow one and drove it away,” said the poet. “Regarded it as an undesirable alien, no doubt,” said Garth. “The Yellow Peril,” said Gale, and relapsed into his dreams. Mallow had already resumed his monologue. “The name of this psychologist is Ivanov, and he’s said to be writing another great book in his coun- try retreat; I believe she is acting as his secretary. It is to embody some mathematical theory about the elimination of limits and—” “Hullo,” cried Garth, “this moated grange of yours is actually coming to life. Somebody is beginning to open a window.” “You haven’t been looking at it as I have,” answered Mallow, quietly. “Just around the angle to the left, there’s a little window that’s been open all the time. That belongs to the little sitting- room out of the spare bedroom. It used to be Laura’s room, and still has a lot of her things in it; but I think they give it now to their guests.” “Including, doubtless, their paying guest,” ob- served Garth. “He’s a queer sort of guest; I only hope he’s a paying one,” returned (Continued on page 90) “I have spoken of a round prison,” said Gale, and as he spoke, he staggered, clutched at the air, and fell all his great length on the grass. At the same moment Mallow was hurled against a tree, and the girl collapsed against him.

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T is well-nigh Adamless, the Eden of which we write, yet charming wumen flock to it. Paradoxical? Not in the least, for, after all, clothes in the wear ing are quite as exhilarating to the nor mal woman as badinage in a ballroom or coquetry in a conservatory. If not, then why do we foregather in a smart uptown restaurant at midday while most male crea- tures are lunching in far-off Wall Street? “We do dress for each other and not for men,” one muses, as a dashing costume in black taffeta and brilliant tartan rustles by. “Beyond all question this is so!” one ex- claims, as a regal head closely toqued in drooping black heron feathers turns to issue some command. They enter and ascend the carpeted steps to the restaurant above. They descend and saunter across the anteroom into a myste- rious unknown beyond. There are remark- ably pretty women among them, wearing alluring hats and ravishing gowns, and there are, as well, women of undoubted distinction on whose stately shoulders repose the most sumptuous of furs, and yet—! As this bevy of luxurious femininity files by, the spectator is conscious of a growing sense of disappoint- ment, which finally formulates itself into this protest: “So much beauty of detail and so little beauty of effect !” FoR example—there stands a gown heavy with embroidery and brilliant with color, topped by a hat fairly dripping with flame and orange paradise. One’s eyes rove rest- lessly from striking detail to striking detail of this toilette, and after the wearer of the mass of expensive heterogeneity moves on, one realizes that the only detail which es- caped one entirely was the space between her collar and hat-brim. At great cost of time, energy and money this well-intentioned woman had succeeded merely in fidgeting the onlooker and extinguishing herself. “Why, oh why, is there not a philosophy of dress as a whole, as there is an art of dress in detail?” Instantly, as if in answer to this HARPER’S BAZAR THE COSTUME COMPLETE By RUTH LORD JENKINS invocation, a delightful figure presents itself to our vision—a figure conveying an impres- sion of great individuality and charm. Im- agine a woman slenderly graceful of figure and softly chdtain of coloring arrayed in a straight beige crépe frock showing here and there upon its tawny surface traceries out- lined in fine steel beads. The neutrality of the odd gown is relieved by a subtle touch; the hat, shoes and hose are of delicate gray and the long gloves of white. One has but to study this costume with an intelligent at- tention in order to understand its telling charm: the fair wearer was evidently first captivated by the frock which so well be- comes her, then, like an artist, she gave it the central place in her composition and next surrounded it with harmonious but subor- dinate detail. The gray-to-white highlights of the cut steel beads were her guides, and from these she deduced chapeau, footgear and gloves. One glances about eagerly for other women who may have built their costumes upon some such picturesque principle as this. One has not far to look: there goes an example of the most delicious of all ensembles in dress —the monochrome. A sand-colored tailleur is topped by a matching hat, striking of sil- houette and absolutely devoid of ornament. Sand suéde ties and sand silk hose adorn the wearer’s feet, and gloves of the same suéde sheathe her hands and wrinkle at her wrists. And lest the spell be broken, a tailored portemonnaie of similar hue is added as a final detail. F one enjoys a touch of the bizarre—a touch so delicate that even the conserva- tive must concede its charm—one glances after a full frock of myrtle green with skirt arching high above the ankles in front and dipping well below them in the back. It is lined to the very rim with taupe taffeta and the lovely wearer is shod and stockinged in a still paler taupe. Her shoulders are closely swathed in a scarf of mole, a broad hat of darkest green graces her head, and long oys- ter-white gloves encase her hands and arms. One does not analyze; one merely admires. And since one good gown invariably sug- gests another to an imaginative woman, the interested observer immediately composes in fancy an evening toilette based upon the arching skirt border and contrasting shoes and hose of this adorable afternoon costume in green and taupe. She would have it of soft yet heavy black satin, slim rather than bouffant of silhouette, and with a sweeping panel train. The narrow skirt she would arch high above the feet and ankles against a background of cloth-of-silver, and she would have the high-heeled slippers and filmy stockings, as well, of glimmering argent. The décolletage of a gown such as this might be cut in the new low U just pro-

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fo r FEBRUARY 1921] jected by a smart couturier, but no hint of lace or embroidery or beading should mar its sophisticated simplicity. Strands of fine pearls might hang about the wearer’s neck, — but the fan she carries should be merely a single sable plume with no trace of color in its black carved handle. A lovely blonde might wear this effec- tive composition in black and silver, to be sure, but would it not be more telling, per- haps, on a colorless brunette? It was sage advice—that of a great French modiste to an English duchess—“I advise Your Grace to match your eyes by daylight and your hair by candlelight.” T is difficult, as one glances at the short flight of steps which lead to festivities above, to think of aught but feet—skirts are so short and shoes so challenging. The national boast, most certainly, has not been made in vain, for American feet are small and shapely and their accompanying ankles trim in the extreme. And how wise those women who allow no foible of the moment to lure them into stockings, or shoes, or a combination of the two which will detract from these happy advantages. The more austerely plain the shoe and stocking, one soliloquizes, the more flattering are they to the foot and ankle; but if strapped sandals must be worn, then may the stockings worn with them be ever inno- cent of even the slenderest clock or the merest suggestion of design. But the supreme mistake is a stocking of all-over design or a parti-colored shoe worn below a skirt of strikingly printed foulard. One watches the kaleidoscopic combina- tion for a moment or two, and then turns away blinking and fatigued. That the feet and ankles may lose none of their attractive- ness, that the couturier’s handiwork may re- ceive full justice, the hose and shoes worn with figured fabrics should be simple of de- sign and uniform of color. And as for printed foulard, it is here in a multiplicity of dashing patterns and fasci- nating colorings. There goes a full, puffy skirt of soft taupe showing lengthwise nat- ural-sized tendrils in palest yellow, and one is pleased to see that the discriminating woman who wears it has dressed her charm- ing feet in palest gray. ROM chaussure to chapeaux—is it not a logical transition? The chapeau which calls to us from the milliner’s show-case is some- times of so marked a type that it, rather than the gown worn with it, should be the center of the composition in clothes. A hat fes- tooned and scarfed with lace, one sees in fancy, topping a gown of plain fabric and pictorial silhouette, and as one imagines the lovely picture a tangible example of one’s theory walks past. This young girl, tall, vivid and debonair, has expressed her indi- viduality in a brimmed hat, turned back at one side and cocarded at the other. And that it may be completely convincing—the chapeau a la dix-huitiéme siécle—she has thrown about her shoulders a dashing cape, long, full and swirling, and has shod her feet in buckled’ pumps. HERE is, incidentally, the very closest relationship between hat and shoes, though they be separated from each other by the entire length and breadth of the human form. If a hat follows a national or period feeling, for example, the shoes worn with it should suggest this feeling; to bear it out too liter- ally, however, would be a grave error in taste. In this day of elaborate footgear the temptation to overdress one’s feet is a pow- erful one. Why not, O leaders of the mode, ordain tailored ties and pumps and boots for the tailleur, and sandals, high of heel and in- tricate of strapping, for the silks and satins of afternoon and evening? Yes: as philosophical spectators of the passing show of femininity and fashion we are convinced that women do really dress for each other and not for men. But, above all, are we convinced that the woman who dresses effectively is she whose costume is ever and always a composition in clothes.

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AZAR B HARPER’S bees ems eee QO instal hedaman —— . . — “ a - ~ /

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79 HARPER’S BAZAR Blue velours embroidered in a spotted design with bright orange wool makes a most un- usual little coat for the jeune fille. A cape of the plain fabric hangs from between the shoul- ders of the straight blouse body. SEEN ON THE BOIS suinaih ais wiles. “tino bcs alae: The black embroidery on the Marvelously smart and startling skirt of white serge, the white lining to the black cape, and final inspiration, the black and in its ensemble is a _ loosely bloused wrap of broadtail with its skirt made entirely of long lustrous monkey fur. This fas- cinating combination by Pa- quin is new even on the Bois. white monkey fur collar, com- plete a study in black and white seen one morning on the Bois. Nowhere but in the Bois to-day could w possibly see a duplicate of the trap and pair driven by the Princesse de Faucigny de Lu- cinge. We are reminded of the New York of Edith Wharton’s “Age of Innocence.” The contrast between the French girl who rides and her American cousin is ever an occasion for interested surprise. The hair bows and the full-skirted riding coat seen on the Bois are never worn in America. The slit sleeve of Lanvin’s day dress of dark blue velvet is a most interesting feature. The inner sleeve is of blue chiffon and the em- broidery on the sleeve, collar and girdle is done in shades of rose, old gold and blue.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 73 PARIS RIVIERA AND Costumes of many minds are seen on the Bois. There is a suggestion of the old-time prin- cess silhouette in a straight one- piece coat of richly brocaded satin of a lusterless black. THE trimmed with skunk For the morning walk comes a remarkably good-looking tail- leur of dark beige duvetyn striped with taffeta of the same tone. The skirt is plaited to par- tially hide the taffeta, while the modified box coat is plain. Separate jackets are making their appearance in Paris. A noticeable model of beige ve- lours de laine is banded with putois and has collar and cuffs of the same fur. Black toile cire binds the pockets. The clothes seen at the southern resorts are most intriguing. The simplicity of a gray crépe de Chine skirt with a boyish white crépe over-blouse is offset by an elaborate frock of fine cream lace and cream chiffon. “Just too adorable for anything” describes the small French lad all done up in rose- colored beaver cloth and white cony fur. Of course he and his dog are playing in the Bois, where all good French children play! She did not want her picture taken, this hatless, curly-haired youngster in her high- waisted coat of tan cloth and brown fur. Big sister, however, in her coat and hat of dark blue velours, is most complacent.

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HARPER’S BAZAR IN CREPE POIRET TWILL USEFUL FROCKS OR To the average woman shopping is a difficult business— especially so if she does not live in one of the larger cities. But it is no longer necessary for her to do her own shopping. These chic little frocks for daytime and evening wear Jane Jarvis has picked from the hundreds of models in the better New York shops. Perhaps among the few pictured here is the very one she needs; then she can easily enclose her check or money order and expect the early arrival of her choice—her shopping is done. A truly serviceable frock is one whose collar may be worn high or low tc suit the occasion. The frock to the right is of Canton crépe and comes in navy blue embroidered in red, and brown or navy with gray embroidery. Sizes 18-20; price $49.50. The smari frock at the left has a crisp collar and cuffs of natural-colored linen. A bright ribbon bow makes a Spot of color at the neck against the navy blue or brown Poiret twill of which the frock is made. Sizes 14- 20; price $39.50. This frock of Canton crépe is par- ticularly charming, as it shows the new eyelet embroidery that is so well- liked this year. It navy, black, dark brown and gray, and the satin underskirt in a contrasting color shows through the eyelets. This is an unusually attractive frock for $45.00. Sizes 14-18 and 36-44. comes in The long lines of the street frock at the right give it an unmistakable cachet. The waist is becomingly tight fitting and the skirt circular It comes in a very attractive navy blue Poiret twill. collar and a moiré ribbon bow with flying A lace ends are finishing touches. Sizes 14- 20; price $39.50. A frock of Canton crépe is always a joy—particularly so when it is em- broidered at the throat and on the sleeves and pocket. The one at the left may be obtained in tan, navy blue or gray, embroidered in a con- trasting shade. It comes in sizes from 14 to 20 and costs $55. A very demure little frock with its round neck and simple lines may be had in brown or navy blue Canton crépe. So that it may not be too severe, it is embroidered in a con- trasting shade and the second color forms the band down the front. Sizes 14-20; $49.50.

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for FEBRUARY 1921 AND SMART TAFFETA DRESSES JANE JARVIS CHOOSES If the frock she needs is not here, however,—if she wants something just a little different or a great deal different from those shown on these two pages, she may write to Jane Jarvis and describe her needs and our shopping service will do its best to suit her as it has suited hun- dreds of other women all over the country. Letters should be addressed to Jane Jarvis, Harper’s Bazar Shopping Service, 119 West 40th Street, New York City. The crépe de Chine frock at the left may be used for dances or afternoon wear, depending on the color one chooses—white, flesh, gray, jade, navy blue, brown or black. This chic crépe frock is undoubtedly a bargain at $79.50. Sizes 34-44. A crisp little organdie frock, for Southern wear, that is copied from an imported model, may be had in French blue, peach, rose, orchid, dark brown, navy blue and white. It comes in sizes from 14 to 20 years and costs only $29.50 For a dozen different purposes one may choose a taffeta frock and make no mistake. The attractive model above may be obtained in navy blue or brown, piped narrowly with white and with touches of white embroi- dered on the skirt. It has the be- coming surplice effect and comes in sizes 14 to 20 years for $42.50. A simple almost severe frock with a surplice front may be had in navy blue, brown or black taffeta for the recsonable price of $39.50. The long. tight-fitting sleeves and flaring cuffs are an interesting and charming fea- ture. The wide short skirt makes it very serviceable. It comes in sizes from 14 to 20. Collar and cuffs of embroidered ba- A frock of navy blue taffeta elabo- tiste and a frill of the same material rately trimmed with eyelet embroi- down the front give a jaunty air to dery has an underskirt of henna, the frock of ieved Georgette green or lavender Georgette which at the left. ’ be had with may be seen through the eyelets as black dots on mis acen blue, navy well as below the overskirt. The wide or rust color. Th are 14 to 20 collar and cuffs are of embroidered years and ! ) is $59.50. organdie. Sizes 14 to 20. $49.50.

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a ¢ the hic fre dainty charmingly froc k, collar, cuffs, gilet and ruffles add another rk white collar and bandings and with the navy blue of gilet For Sundays at school or for the holidays, of taffeta is quite a la mode contrast which forms old blue touch of real distinction. on VALENTINE PARTY FROCKS FOR SWEET SIXTEEN JOHN WANAMAKER \ beseabcacnh |) A A frock which, like all the others on this page, is an adaptation of a Parisian model, is formed of heavy white crépe de Chine trimmed with strips of tan embroidery on batiste—a Rodier material. The slim effect with its tan ribbon sash at the low waist-line is very attractive. With its ruffed sleeves and flounces on the skirt, the frock at the left makes a charming dinner dress for It is shown in pale orchid crépe de Chine with hand-drawn work, while navy blue rib- bon forms a contrasting note of darker color at the throat. the young girl. The simplicity that is one of youth’s greatest privi- leges finds expression in the Mennonite frock of pale gray Moroccan crépe de Chine shown at the right. A wide gray sash knotted low at the back and ac- cordion plaited sleeves and skirt form its only revolts from the path of demureness. HARPER’S At the informal Valentine party she may be garbed becomingly in graceful white crépe de Chine with an orange design of tiny circles. The soft ruffling about the V-shaped neck and down one side of the skirt is piped with orange. The low waist is narrowly sashed. BAZAR

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for FEBRUARY 1921 77 SS ee SS ee ==) yy nti h i t Wilt “A marksman keen and bold The highest prize I hold “ee I'm never content with an arrow sent Unless it strikes the gold.” “It’s a bull’s-eye!” Not merely “fair” health, but positively good health — abounding vitality and vigor—this is the only health mark worth aiming at. And it can be attained if you aim steadily at the simple sensible living which insures it. Above all insist on plain nourishing food and a properly balanced diet. Serve good soup on your table every day without fail. | Start today’s luncheon or dinner with Ws 4 _ Campbell’s tempting Tomato Soup. : . : | It is not only a delightful appetizer but . y "it supplies elements which are positively 7 0 M T 0 | ) necessary for complete nutrition. © Ww Pp Hl Such a soup served regularly is at by, the very foundation of the nourishing MSEPH Gampnett COMP Ci _ diet which builds up energy and teaiasinsiiaennies f | strength. Keep it on hand. 21 kinds 15c a can

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eyes, and though but little hair, it prom- ised to be as red as her own. Maurice would be back in a moment. The young engineer was enormously busy. Born rich, he was also successful. His son was strong his wife lovely and smiling. Life held no flaws. As the door opened and Maurice, striding to the sofa, took her in his arms, Barbara thought: “Is all experience proved false? They dined. They laughed at intimate jokes created by their relationship. They were keen in interest, she in his work, he in her pleasures. And after dinner they went back to the drawing-room, for they were fortunate in both being good musi- cians. That night they played the Kreut- zer Sonata, he upon the piano, she upon the violin. And later, as she watched him while he played one of Bach’s exquisite chorales, that are pagan as well as devout, she summarized her life in a quotation from Baudelaire: “Here is nothing but beauty, luxury, order and delight. As the months went on, Barbara found her fears grow weaker. She was better assured of him; she was able to believe that this could last; she feared less in- tensely; she feared less often; Maurice seemed happy; their ordinary life con- tinued; they entertained and were enter- tained. According to the season, they skated or played games, and as if her new happiness had renewed her strength she found energy to be young for the sake of youth. And Maurice was so young. Above all, he loved dancing, and she was glad, almost motherly, to see him take pleasure with Olga and Sophia Barnes and return to her from these exhausting devotees of jazz, or languish in more stately exercise with little Irene Ford. He danced with her, too, and it disquieted her only faintly that he should seek other partners. After all, she could not fill his program; it was enough that she should fill his life. UT, as the summer came, Barbara _ be- gan to realize that she did not entirely fill his life. It was natural enough that occasionally he should go to a house din- ner at his club. Men liked men’s society; that’s how they were made. Still she was beginning to think that Herbert Drayton was acquiring too much influence over him. She herself disliked golf, and it was natural enough that he should pass with Drayton an entire Sunday on the links. Yes, it was natural enough, Barbara’s distress was faint and vague, but, as the summer went on, absorb herself as she might in the effort to please and amuse him, take all the joy she might from Wilfred, who was never sick and always had for her a broad, tooth- less grin, she was disturbed. She half con- fessed this to her sister Viola. Viola had been married for twenty years and pos- sessed a philosophy that came down like a coal-hammer. It was effective, but not subtle. “I don’t know what you mean,” said Viola, when she tried to explain. Viola was very good-looking in her way, like her sister, but thicker, and her skin had been hardened and burnt by hunting. — ey know myself. He's always glad to have me with him, but he can do without me.” “Well, you can do without him, can't you? I can do without Jim.” “It’s not the same thing,” said Barbara. Fancy comparing Maurice with Jim! “But what are you complaining of?” asked Viola wearily. “Does he run after other women?” “Viola!” cried Barbara, “how can you be so vulgar?” “You may call it vulgar, I call it com- mon sense. A man’s got to get into trou- ble; if he doesn’t run after women, he drinks, or he gambles, or he swears at you. But do something he must. He's got to get the vice out somehow. “Maurice isn’t like that,” rather primly. said Barbara, HE conversation, however, remained in her mind. She remembered her first husband: he got the vice out all right ... in several ways. So she was prepared to feel disquiet when Maurice’s business cares eemed to increase, and he returned home only just in time to dress. This alone would not have disturbed her, but on two occa- sions, when she asked him, not in a spirit of inquisition, what he had been doing, in one case he had been at a lunch party where Irene Ford was present: in another he had casually come across her in the car, and taken her and a friend to visit his electrical works. She would not own to herself how much the girl was beginning to terrify her. She was small, slight, very fair, pale, and of WINTER ROSES wa Bs George’s Story (Concluded from page 55) an appealing delicacy that made Barbara feel course Also, she was only twenty- two, and, being an orphan fairly well off, lived alone. One evening Maurice said that he had been detained by a breakdown, and Jater in conversation mentioned that it had taken only half an hour to overcome the trouble. What had he done in the other two hours? She -was wise enough not to annoy him with questions, but not wise enough to avoid putting them to her- self, ie was four o'clock in the afternoon. Slow autumn fell dim, and through the haze little halos hung about the lamps. Barbara paused for a moment before the window of the florist which as a rule. she passed by, because that shop had no taste in flowers and set them out as a bootmaker sets boots. But that day she stopped, sud- denly struck and overwhelmed by the un- expected beauty of a mass of pale yellow flowers standing in a green jar . great tall branches, cruelly cut whole from an old rose-tree, studded and clustering with small young blossoms, hardly open yet and tender with dew. For a long time she remained gazing at the dream blooms, aching a little, for their youth reminded her that she was nearly forty-two; and nowadays everything re- minded her that she was nearly forty-two. Then, as she sighed, her gaze wandered into the shop, and she saw the side-face of her husband. He was smiling, hand- somer than she could believe. He was pointing at the roses, and she hoped that he had not seen her. She thought: “He’s going to buy me those roses,” and irradi- ated with delight. ‘He mustn’t see me; it would spoil it,’ and hurried away. She went on to a dull tea-party, where the women talked of frocks and the few men of bad music. But all through her bore- dom ran, softly warm, _ the phrase: “He's bought me those roses When she returned home, it was nearly six o’clock, and though she looked anx- iously in the hall, no box lay there. She ran up to her bedroom; they might have been taken up-stairs. But no. Then she reflected that florists do not always hurry. Half-past six came, and when her maid was partly through doing her hair, Bar- bara lost all sense of dignity and sent her down to ask if a parcel had come. But there was no parcel, and when Maurice helped her into the car he said nothing about the roses. Barbara thought: “I’m silly to be unhappy about it. Perhaps they were ridiculously dear. Or only on show and not for sale.” So she smiled at him, and though he seemed rather absent-minded, he kindly returned the pressure of her hand. HE was charming that evening, and in Irene Ford’s drawing-room Barbara reflected that he made the other guests, Mr. Barry, dark and dull-looking, and nervous little Drayton, seem insignificant. She felt superior to fluffy Eva Barry; even Irene, so pale under her straw-colored hair, was a shadow. LBut, as they sat down to dinner, Barbara clenched her hands until the finger-nails entered her palms; in front of her, massed in a bowl, were the un- forgettable yellow roses. And to make the horror more complete, the brighter light suddenly revealed one of the yellow roses in Irene Ford's pale hair. She had not noticed it in the drawing-room, so ex- quisitely did the blossom melt into the tender gold of the girl’s hair. It was agony! So this was the woman for whom he had bought those dream roses, bought them with such a security of taste, because they matched those locks . . . did he love those locks? Had he wound them about his hands? She smiled at a pleas- antry from Mr. Barry, caught it swiftly, returned it in a successful repartee, all the time her eyes upon those of her rival. Suddenly the agony transformed itself into rage. “Yes,” she thought, “I may be forty- two, i may be his dull, heavy wife, but he’s mine and what he gives you he steals from me. They are mine, those roses A cold anger succeeded the hot. ’ Bar- bara turned away from Mr. Barry, and in a voice soft as the blackbird’s call said to Miss Ford: “What beautiful roses, dear! Where ever did you find them? And it was very clever of you to put one in to match your hair.” “Do you think so?” said Miss Ford. “Of course, flowers either should match your hair or clash with it, shouldn’t they? For instance, with your lovely auburn hair you'd look lovely with a wreath of ivy. Contrast, you know.’ “Oh, I don’t think so at all, dear. After all, one a make a color scheme with any two colors if one of them is primary, like yellow, and the other composite, red and yellow mixed, like auburn. Now I wonder whether you’d mind if I took one of your roses and put it in my hair?” “Why not try?” said Mr. Barry, with covert enthusiasm. “By all means, rather coldly. Without a word, Barbara broke off one of the yellow flowers, coolly dried its stem upon her napkin, and with the help of her pocket mirror, slipped it over one ear into her thick tresses. For a moment she looked straight into Irene Ford’s eyes, then turned and glanced at her husband, who at once looked away. With rather high laugh she turned to Drayton and said: “Well, Mr. Drayton, tell us the news. You’re a man about town. Some scandal; I love scandal. Champagne? Why, yes, I will. I never touch it as a rule, but I will to-night. Irene, I'll drink your health. May your _path in life be strewn with yel- low roses! Barbara,” said Irene, ILFRED was eighteen months old, and was beginning to make himself under- stood. Sometimes, as Barbara held him, and carried him round the room, painstak- ingly teaching him that this thing was called chair, and that other, picture, she forgot the persistent disquiet in which she now lived. Wilfred was exquisite, very fat, with a heavy crop of her own red hair. Only, sometimes, when she looked into his gray eyes, every day more like his father’s, she was brought back to the surrounding life. In this year, which had passed so slowly, she had grown almost certain that, though Irene Ford might not have captured her husband, she herself had nearly lost him. He was friendly, civil, seldom remiss in attentions, but incredibly different. He was no longer surprised by the rarity of his conquest. She was a conquest, that was all. After an hour of uncertain fury, during which she had plotted to attack him, a calmer mood had come. She thought: ‘“‘He has loved me so much! Even if he does not learn to love me again like that, he must not learn to love me no more,” So their cool, amiable relations had kept on having the appearance, if not the real- ity, of love. There were difficult moments, though. For several weeks Maurice had talked of Pachmann’s impending recital. He was to accompany her to it, and only two days before intended to do so. But, when the morning came, he told her that he was very sorry, but he had quite forgotten that he was playing a foursome and he couldn't very well “No, of course, Maurice, you can’t. You can’t let three people down.” “I’m not quite sure that it will be a foursome,” said Maurice, as if guilty. “Drayton was rather uncertain, but even then we’d have to get somebody else.” ARBARA said nothing. Her husband had forgotten that a week before he told her that Drayton would be away for a fortnight on business; five days of that fortnight had still to run. She thought: “How tragic it is for us women that we should invariably remember little details like that. Men forget, and they let out things that we would rather not know. Irene Ford didn’t play golf when I first knew her.” But even then she repressed her impulse to anger. The unhappiness of her first marriage had taught her that matrimony is a skilled trade. In full knowledge of the risks, she had married a man twelve years her junior; she had accepted the mar- riage bond, and she must not make it a chain. She knew that marriage limits free- dom, and that if it destroys freedom it de- stroys love. Still, it is hard to practice the gentle art of moderation when passion intervenes. She had to see him dance with Irene while she danced with other men, and to try and tell herself that her own pleasure was charged with none of the significance that surrounded her husband and the girl. Her instinct told her that she had nothing ex- treme to fear from their relationship, that what existed between them was platonic . . but it was adventure, and as she watched them, her husband’s dark head bending close to the pale hair, she under- stood that Irene represented the lost adven- ture of his youth, the unknown joys he had resigned for the assured joys he had found in his marriage. T was only later that Barbara deter- mined to fight for him. “I’m undignified,” she thought, “but I might have had to struggle to get him, and HARPER’S BAZAR what is worth fighting to get is worth fight- ing to keep.” She was still beautiful: courageous, she determined to protect her beauty. Mani- cure tools, henna shampoo, skilful wave, black patch to heighten the white of her cheek, all allies were called upon in this gallant struggle of beautiful age against careless, inexorable youth. Sometimes she succeeded and knew pure joys. “I say,” said Maurice, “that's a ripping coat and skirt you've got en. It was—a perfectly cut coat, téte-de- négre in color, edged at the wrists and neck with skunk, breaking no line, making her look lissom. And upon her head a three-cornered hat to match, about which curled close a short puce and yellow feather. He looked at her admiringly. “You're splendid, Barbara. Like a valkyr dressed in rue de la Paix.” She felt tears near; it was dreadful that such slight appreciation could move her now. TILL she struggled always to be gentle, always understanding, never in the way. lf, in the evening, he worked in his study, she would not sit with him, but gave him a smile and went away so that he might enjoy privacy; he should not say that his wife interfered either with his actions or with his thoughts. But, though Maurice did not understand a tithe of the art expended in procuring his ease, he was conscious of a change in Barbara. Once she had been like fire, and now she was like light. The blaze was the same, but this one gave forth no heat. He was conscious of civility rather than affection. But he did not dare speak; if she no longer loved him it would be no good to have it out. And he was afraid, because, though he was tiring of Irene and swayed to her only because she represented the adventure that might have been, he feared that Barbara might know what he had to hide and think that there was more. The thought began to prey upon him. He made efforts to please Barbara; he gave her presents; he forced his company upon her. And always she accepted ... was it graciously or gratefully? He was breath- ing the air of courtship, but it was thinner. At last, finding it unbearable, he spoke to Drayton. His friend listened to the end of his broken sentences, then said: “T know.’ “How do you mean? — I don’t mean that. Only I’ve seen for months how it is between you and your wife. You must give up Miss Ford, old fellow.” “Oh, I'll do that all right,” There’s nothing to said Maurice, petulantly. “She was coming to dinner to- night. Ill telephone now and tell her not to come. I'll say Barbara’s ill, or some- thing.” “Yes, that’s all right,’’ said Drayton. “But it wants more than that. You must tell Barbara all about it. Make a clean breast of it.” Aiter a moment Maurice said: ‘No, I can’t do that. Let me get rid of Irene, and things will settle down.” “As you like,” said Drayton. On his way home, Maurice remembered that the vague trouble had begun that night, when he bought the yellow roses. A whimsical fancy struck him; roses must cure what roses had marred. [But this was winter, and the florist had only tiny pink roses; still, these must do. He sent them home. ATER, when he sat down to dinner, Bar- bara was smiling an uneasy, nervous smile. “Maurice,” she said, don’t quite un- derstand why Irene hasn’t come to dinner.’ He stared at the table-cloth for a mo- ment, and said: “I told her not to come. I told her you were ill.” “Why did you do that?” “To have you to myself just one eve- ning.” She looked at him through misty eyes. She was beginning to understand. Hur- riedly he added: ‘You like those roses, do you?” “Yes, of course I do. tender.” “I’m sorry they’re so small. they are only Christmas roses.’ “Roses of the dead year,’ said Barbara. Yes,” Maurice murmured, “roses of the dead year . . . and of a live love.” There was a very long pause. Then, a deliberate, slow smile upon her lips, Bar- bara disentangled from the bowl one of the pale Christmas roses, carefully dried _ its stem, and with the help of her pocket mirror, slipped it into her hair. So small and You see, T |

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for FEBRUARY 1921 ™

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“Father, what do you think is the mat- ter with women? Nothing, replied the elder Bourne promptly Nothing is the matter with them His son stared at him and waited. “Ii that's really all you've got to say on the subject, Boies and I will go up to the garret and talk to Uncle Eli's Buddha idol John Bourne’s eyes twinkled and then steadied to a straightforward gaze. Don't rush me,” he said If you mean from my point of view, | should say that a matter of a generation is what's wrong with women. but if you mean from the viewpoint of your callow years I say that you get what you deserve. There’s nothing more extraordinary in the history of civilization than the compliance of woman to the will of man. When nations have demanded Spartans among. their women, they have found them; when they have asked for mollusks, mollusks have appeared in shoals; when they have called for pioneers, pioneers have answered, and when they have shown a preponderant ap- petite for courtesans, loose women have always rapidly become a glut in the open market. H® stopped speaking, as though to give the full meaning of his words a chance to sink in, but evidently expected no interruption from his hearers, and pres- ently continued “My generation asked a great deal of woman and got it. We didn’t give much in return beyond an ordered life and a high average of fidelity. We were busy with a forward movement, and it kept most of us out of mischief and many of us in love. You may think that forward movement is still on, but it isnt. As a nation I should say that we have reached the dangerous age, the years of acquisi- tion. Your generation is stagnant, slack water at the high tide of material pros- perity. A people that builds bridges to cross rivers is bound to be greater than the people that builds them to sell. Do you get that?” Yes, sir,’ said Stephen thoughtfully, “that’s a true saying; but what are you going to do when all your rivers are bridged? Is every nation bound down- hill from the day it ceases to move and becomes acquisitive, as you put it? “Boies,” said Bourne, the younger, “what do you and I get out of all this? The assurance that we young folks have been demanding courtesans and are going to get them and that our generation also inaugurates the eon of senile decay in the nation. I haven’t carried a load like that since I was a sophomore. I say the innuendo, as far as Amelie is concerned, is more than an insult; it’s dead wrong.” “I don’t suppose you were even think- ing of Amelie, Mr. Bourne,” said Stephen, but were you heading for her?” shifted the brilliant young OHN BOURNE’S quickly from one other It's hard to keep up with your age,” he said, as though he were feeling his way “I can’t get used to names. What I mean is that I remember the abstract as a code among. gentlemen. I wish Amelie were here, sitting in that fourth chair, as gravely as she used to sit on my eyes man to knee a good twenty years ago. If she were sitting here among us, all three of us her friends, I would feel differently about talking of her and with her. I could ask her what was really the matter, and somehow I believe she'd tell me frankly how bored she was with looking out of windows into windows; of bringing up children to anything as empty as a uni- versal rule of acquisition; of the over- whelming monotony of materialism unre- and of the dead weight of without the threat lieved by crime, honorable deportment of hell-fire.” He paused and leaned forward, fixing his eyes on Boies Stephen, who was listening tensely and with all the ears of his mind. “If she were here,’ he continued, “I could talk to her and play on you, Boies, so that you would feel in your breast the birth, the warmth, the heat and the roar of the undying fire, the stirring of those elemental emotions which are not love but the eternal setting of love. Life is a con- flagration, a fire or a heap of ashes. We've got to burn or die. I’ve seen many an alliance, many a friendship and many 1 healthy feud go dead for lack of a little intelligent kindling.” into He OIES STEPHEN lay awake far the night, but he was not restless. sensed an exhilaration which defied fatigue. POT OF GOLD Novel George Agnew (Continued from What liquor does for some natures a men- tal problem did for his. He could re- member almost word for word everything that John Bourne had said, and he was conscious of a surge of gratitude that the admonition had here been buried so deep beneath an obvious surface, there lifted to so high and nebulous a plane and everywhere veiled with the tracery of a tender delicacy. He felt a lump rise in his throat at the memory of the gossamer touch with which an image of Amelie had been drawn into the intimate circle as though in protection not of her rights alone, but of all those traditions of defer- ence which Americans in times past ac- corded to their women. As he lay wide-eyed upon could conjure’ vividly _ her perched on John Bourne’s knee. picture the long slim lines of her black- stockinged legs, the gravity of her big brown eyes, the spots of color in her dusky cheeks, the curly disorder of her living hair and by an unconscious reflex of the mind he could see the Amelie of to-day sinking slowly into the vacant chair, attending with the selfsame gravity the conference of her assembled judges, watching them, weighing them from with- in that hidden fortress of the quickening soul, which he had never been quite man enough to take by assault and to hold. He dropped off to sleep with a question- ing smile on his lips, and awoke to find Bourne, the younger, and a flood of sun- light in his room. Boies, are you awake? Wake up! Get up! This is to be a great day for you, old top. Roll out and bump yourself on the floor.” “You remind me of a to go fishing,’ said stretched himself sleepily. ‘hat’s extraordinary!’ It's wonderful, almost supernatur al. That’s exactly what we are going to do. Get up and put on your rough “Nothing like that,” said Stephen, awake. “I’m going to the office.” “You are not,” said Bourne promptly. “I telephoned your old office yesterday and told them you wouldn’t be in for weeks, and, God's truth, Boies, they said they were Bo ‘Weeks! cried crazy.’ rhat’s just a formula for telling a man he’s alive,” replied Bourne. “I like it. Try and catch the fever. Get up. This morning you're going fishing and to-night you start on the longest journey of your life Boies, I've got something up my sleeve. Are you too sleepy to get that?” the bed, he childhood, He could kid that wants Stephen, as he cried Bourne. togs.” fully Stephen. “You're ITHIN an hour they were on their way and Stephen was at the wheel of the powerful touring car. Under Bourne’s direction they were sweeping smoothly toward those Connecticut hills which stop short of the Berkshires, but are still well beyond the congested sub- urban area of the metropolis. For four hours they traveled on improved highways; then they turned into a clay road which stretched its long silence along the fronded reaches of a — brook, and_ finally Bourne said, “Get ready to throw her into second, Turn to the left when I say so and turn sharp. There’s a little bridge and then you climb the wall of heaven.” He had scarcely stopped speaking when he cried out the order. Stephen caught sight of the little bridge just in time, but there was a look of dismay on his face as he swung the car wide, turned it sharply and drove it across the rattling timbers into a drooping mask of encroach- ing foliage. The hood of the car shed the branches to right and left and the laboring engine rose suddenly to a sharp angle of ascent. “Change your gears shouted Bourne. “We don’t want to stick here.” Stephen obeyed quickly, changed to sec- ond and then to first. The whirling wheels cut through the encrusting moss of the ruts of a wood road and took a grip on the rock foundation that lies close to the surface of every New England hill. The car shot forward and began a long grind- ing climb, mounting along curves and by sharp rises and short dips to higher and higher levels. The car came out on a plateau, rela- tively flat but still thickly wooded. The character of the soil changed and with it the nature of the trees. The road de- scended, turned sharply and ended quite abruptly almost under the eaves of a log cabin built on a bold promontory of rock which hung above a dark pool. On one side a group of large hickories shaded the spot; on the other, the gaze fell away by descending terraces of matted brier patches, Chamberlain’s page 35) blots of juniper and a sea of autumn- painted foliage, until it caught the blue glint of the faraway Sound. With the stopping of the engine a pulsing quiet re- possessed the scene. OURNE left the car and led the way to the cabin. It had a porch, a sort of gallery running the full length of its front, and was sturdily roofed with logs and clapboarded. He turned and waited for Stephen, who approached slowly as though he needed time to absorb the peculiar im- pression of so unexpected a conclusion to the long ride; then he pointed out the strange shape of the deep tarn, almost cir- cular at one end with a long narrow arm reaching toward the north. “Long Leg Hole is the name of this place,’ he said, after a moment's pause. ‘There are a lot of these freak ponds on the tops of Connecticut hills, but this is the only really attractive one 1 know. It’s deep, -~_ and the Old Man has stocked it with lazy carp. He owns two hundred acres of the scrub around here; he says it makes a wall just soft and thick enough. Come inside.’ * They entered, and for Stephen said not a word; half an hour he was taken up with enumerating the almost countless touches of an inexpert hand bending to the homely uses of comfort and conven- ience such materials as could be come by readily in so secluded a spot. The rush- seated chairs, the boards for floor and shelving, the dulled kitchen utensils and the simple chinaware had been transported from some nearby town; but the awkward construction of tables, cupboards and a couch, the rough stone and mortar of the huge fireplace, and outside chimney and many kindred features, proclaimed the handicraft of an amateur brought face to face with necessity and conquering. place was musty, but only faintly HE so, for fabrics were absent from its fur- nishings and there was little within its four walls to gather dust or create mold. Its larder was well stocked with such sta- ples as do not readily spoil—sugar, salt, cereals in packets, tinned vegetables and meats, and a leng row of bottled preserves. While Stephen was looking these over Bourne disappeared and presently returned from the car bearing large baskets of pro- visions which he heaped unceremoniously on the one big bed. “What's the idea?’’ asked Stephen, curi- ously, “Are you and I going to live here? “No,” said Bourne. “I’m not, anyway. There’s a little chunky boat lying around somewhere. We'll go fishing for a while and then beat it for home. I'd like to take a carp or two, just so he'll know we've been here without my having to talk about it. Soon after my mother died he disappeared for a couple of months and gave us a lot of worry. He came up here and built this place mostly with his own hands. I can’t tell you very well what he did it for, and I don’t suppose he could either, because since it was finished he has hardly ever come out here. He made a half-hearted effort to explain the business to me once, but he didn’t finish. He didn’t have to. Somehow I knew, without actu- ally knowing, why he did it. It was an overpowering impulse, a reaching out for something basic like a foundation. I can’t tell you in words any more than he could me, but I felt it all right. It’s one of the things I understand better than anything I really know. J. E. was just rebuilding himself after an earthquake.” Then they were ready to start for home, Stephen suggested that he be re- lieved at the wheel, but Bourne refused. “Boies,” he said, “I want you to drive because you've got to know this road and know it well. Did the Old Man’s talk get you last night? Have you thought it over?” “It certainly did and I certainly have,” replied Stephen. “If it hadn’t been hold- ing me in a sort of puzzled trance, do you think you could have run me into a jaunt of this kind, and fooled around with mys- terious suggestions and groceries without bringing down an avalanche of questions on your busy head? Come on, now, just what is the game?” URING half the long ride back to town Bourne expounded, expostulated and pleaded; during the other half the two friends sat in a purposeful silence, which was almost as intense as the argument that had preceded it. Stephen’s eyes were fixed unswervingly on the road; he seemed to be rising slowly but steadily toward one of those decisions, which, once taken, project a lasting implication throughout the rest of life. A peculiar expression that was HARP half smile and half light-of-battle grady. ally spread across his features “All right, Ritt,’ he said at last I'm on.” His lips set grimly as he added, “Only don’t think I’m going into this for a lark, I'm not. I'm in earnest, in the deadest earnest I’ve felt since my first night at school, and if there’s any doubt in your mind or anything yellow in your plans, back out right now. Quit me while I'm cold, but don't try it after my blood’s up. I mean it. Bourne caught his friend's firm grip and pressed it, ing. before returning to the house in Murray Hill, they ran the car into a garage, replenished gas and oil, filled the grease-cups and lubricated the springs: —_ they drove to a chaufieur’s outfitting stablishment, where Stephen made several} escdiins ses, among them a dark green uni- jorm, a visored cap and an enormous pair of dust goggles. Hali an hour later they were at home, and Boies was listening to Bourne's end of a telephone conversation with Amelie. “No, 1 don't feel especially because I'm not a coward. coward.—That's all nonsense. as strong as I am.—A ride— into the October country. There's a chill in the air that sets your blood to racing, and a burst of color on the hillsides that makes your heart ache.—We'll start now, or whenever you say. In an hour, or two hours, or when the moon rises.—You don't know the first four letters of emancipation -You're not playing with fire; you're just hiding in a hole the way a dog does when he knows his day is finished.—I’]] promise nothing.—Yes, there will be a driver, if you say so.—All right.’ hung toward finality. “We're in for it,’’ he said. to cough a lot and have a bad cold. It isn’t really chilly enough for a_high-col- lared coat, and as for those big goggles, they are an anachorism, they don’t go with oiled macadam roads. Amelie isn't a fool.’ Stephen snapped his fingers. “If you've got your lines half learned,” he said, “and don’t fall all over yourself, Amelie isn't going to worry a lot about whether your driver has a cold or the smallpox. When do we start?” “We've got a couple of hours for a bath and a bit of a rest. How do you feel? You've done a stiff lot of driving already. Shall I try to put it off till to-morrow?” “No!” shouted Stephen and made for his room. Two hours elbow but he said noth- in a cowardly, You are the You're just a tearing ride receiver and _ turned with a_ gesture of up the Stephen “You'll have later, almost to the minute, they were at the apartment in Tenth Street. Without a glance at his driver, Bourne hurried in and up and did not re- turn before he had engaged Amelie in an animated discussion. He let her climb un- aided into the car and sprang in_ beside her. “But I tell you you’re wrong,” he ex- claimed, as the car started smoothly away. “A man can pull almost any woman down: he can never raise one up. You never want to be improved, not one of you. I'm not talking from a tank of hot air, but from the strangest and newest reservoir of sta- tistics that was ever collected to show one thing and proved another.” “What reservoir are you _ thinking about?” asked Amelie. ; “The researches of the motion-picture industry,’ replied Bourne. “Don’t yawn. It won’t take me more than a minute to tell you. Those chaps have begun to sys tematize results. They want to know what the public really wants. There isn't a drop of estheticism to a hogshead of their blood. They have found out that the greatest pictures from a point of technique or difficulty in production are small in the eyes of the box-office and that the most stupendous educational film ever shot will hold men, but never an audience of women, and of course women are their great source of revenue. Women aren’t only impatient of improvement, of any broadening that isn’t absorbed without conscious effort; they are inherently vicious.’ “Because they don’t care whether they learn or not how a flower unfolds,” mur- mured Amelie, “or how a turbine turbs, oF why a snowflake falls, or sparks fly up, that proves them inherentiy vicious, does it?” ‘ “Not at all,” said Bourne. “What proves them so is a long string of figures showing that woman in the mob admits only one subject as the motive of a pic- ture: only one, mind you. Sex, and the viler the better. Not presented in a grossly (Continued on page 82)

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for FE BRUARY 1921 —jf-= ST | du- Hl ed, he ibt 2 AD eC ec AATrU EAA = Dovse YROTHERS i a ia nied — — ——) = f | 4TD00R SEDAN : w The Sedan enjoys, everywhere, a ~ distinctly high social status, and | 7 yet its economy is one of the out- ro Standing reasons for its strong | . hold on American appreciation 1 | it The gasoline consumption is unusually low . The tire mileage is unusually high | Dooce BrotHers, Detroit

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but insidiously; delicacy on but inside packed to the gills ind overflowing with suggestion. The one demand of woman. That's a lie,” said Amelie. It may be a lie to you as an indi idual said Lourne calmly, “and at this pecial stage of your development, but it isn't a lie in the face of the mean of womanhood, vulgar way, the suriace, average MELIE toward . him, | admit it,” they are low without which is as low as you can get don't mind, Ritt, I would talk about something else the phone, ‘a tearing ride into the Qctober country,’ 1 gulped, | almost cried. Ii you had been there, 1 might even have thrown my arms around your neck Why, Amelie!” cried Bourne, to her, ““what’s come you? really human under your skin? No; nothing like that Please don't. It's so hard for me to remember how really noble man is when Ritt Bourne makes love to Boies Stephen's wile And you have never even bothered to ask me why | did it! “Oh, made a quick movement Women are knowing it, But if you much rather When you said she said ile over drawing close over Are you Amelie,’ said Bourne, “don’t let’s bother about all that. Please sit close, please be a pal, please let's hold hands like two kids out for a treat. It isn't silly, truly it isn't But where’s the meaning in it Amelie, earnestly Why should I if I don’t feel like doing it? How have you been in love with me? I'm not in love with you.” hen why do you try to hold my ind kiss me, and do things like that, I don’t want you to? : tell you why,” said Bourne after a moment's thought. “Do you remember, a youngster, ever coming on a cat, or a a porcupine, or a snake, or a rabbit asleep? What was your natural impulse? lo wake them up every time. That's an instinct with everybody; some nasty people asked do it, long hand, when as dog, or get a regular itch when they see somebody else asleep.” “Well?” said Amelie ‘That’s all,” said Bourne, “I find, after thinking I knew you for years, that you've been sound asleep all the time. You were wound up to walk and talk, but nobody has ever touched the spring that will make blood leap like a mad thing and ham- mer at your temples till it deafens you. You are a sort of lovely doll with genuine human hair.’ Isn't your driver going awfully asked Amelie “Don't worry,” a good driver, if else And you think,” continued turning to the subject of herself, man who doesn’t love a woman, doesn’t even lie about it, can make blood leap like that?’ I know it,” said Bourne. “A attraction for any grown woman doesn't hang on whether he’s in love with her, or on whether he’s noble or mean, young ot old, rich or poor It depends entirely on whether he’s positive to her negative in a highly charged physical battery If he is ind has the patience to wait, God help her. The more of a cad he turns out the further she'll ' “Ritt,” said Amelie, “you are horribly wrong, and even if you aren't, you are wrong. I'll have to explain that, I suppose. What I mean that all this scientific popular knowledge of physical impulses is more than depressing It doesn’t lead clean even when it’s accurate; it debases. It's as though you pulled women to pieces, not to find their strength, but their flaws. Women can’t afiord to be pulled to pieces. They know it. They must be taken whole and held whole, or they crumple up—like that!” your fast?” answered Bourne. “He's he isn't good at anything Amelie re- that a who her man’s Zo

HE closed her hand into a tight ball and then threw it open with a gesture of abandonment. “I won't let you or any man,” she concluded, ‘“‘make love to me as a matter of technique.” ‘Then you are the loser,’ said Bourne. “Now, just give the making of love as an abstract game a chance. Don't sit in an enemy camp and shoot arrows at me. How can I talk to you and reach you when you are so far away? Come closer: yield just a little. Let yourself go just far enough to see into my country. Think of my arm around you, not as a contact, but as a tell you I've never Nobody ever has. Close your eyes.” murmured symbol of warmth. I yet made love to you. Trust me. “It’s extraordinary,” Amelie,

POT OF GOLD Agnew Ch » - George Continued when his There know ‘the way a man’s talk changes, friend’s wile is living on her own take my hand. | feel better because | the worst; this car can't possibly any faster if it tries and, incidentally, thank God for headlights. Now tell me the rea son of rack and ruin. I'll close my eyes.” The reason of rack and ruin? re- peated and paused 1! think I know mean,’ he went on, “You wonder why nowadays our world, yours and mine eems to make only to break. I'}l tell you, if youll only lie still. Its a question of mechanism. Any day-laborer can marry happily; they do it by millions. But the moment you get into the industrial class you begin to find here and there the seed of unhappiness, and when you pass up to people who live purely on their nerves, that miserable seed seems have been own broadcast.’ 3 That's true, HIS is why continued lot of forces outside of combined toward the mechanical of women. If he alone had built up the intricacies of the modern woman, he might have the touch of the master at his fingers’ ends and be able to handle the machine, make it run smoothly without knowing it running But unluckily for all of us, finesse hasn't kept up with the growth nervous tension; it went to sleep at the stage of the pickhandle, an answer to the flying frying pan I'll admit all that,” said Amelie. Really, Ritt, you're wonderful and I never knew it before! Now what's the way out?” Bourne, what to said Amelie. “But why?” Bourne. “A man have refining was his ol d> The long daunted, “is learning applies to the out,” replied Bourne, un- man to stay up nights That's theoretical and future of the genus as a whole. Taking any individual case, I should say there’s only one way to get re- sults in time and that to open up any given woman with an axe, pick out all the tiny wheels, springs and dewilickers that aren't essential to her elemental function- ing and throw them in the family ash can, I}! tell you why I believe that; I mean be- lieve it in dead earnest, with all my heart.” Yes,’ said Amelie, “go on. I'm feeling what you say, Ritt; 1 really am.” I've known of two three cases, complied Bourne, “where men with butter- fly wives nave gone to smash and dropped clean out of view, and once myself and the other times somebody else came across those ruins and found a live young tree of content. Their women had reverted to every basic trait that tends to sane build- ing. They had been swept clean of fur- helows to their foundations and the fo-mn- dations were solid, by God! There are the thousand times when butterflies have quit cold on disaster and added shame to it, but the one woman who doesn't fills my way lor finesse Is or eves so full that I can't see the rest.’ HE car slowed down violently with a long-drawn screech of the brakes, swerved, turned, rattled across a groaning bridge and plunged with a swish into a bank of foliage. The driver changed speeds with a horrible grinding of the gears that shattered the silence of the night. The headlights, turned upward, poured a tunnel] of light along the steep ascent Amelie did not scream; she gasped and seized Bourne’s arm with both hands. Vhat is it?” she asked in a frightened oitieaee “What has happened?’ Nothing,” replied Bourne, reassuringly. “Nothing at all. Dont be frightened. Look at the light on the leaves. Did you ever see a more wonderful effect?” The car jounced alony, the ruts of the wood road, ground down into them and seemed to take a grip on one rock only to leap with a bone-tacking jerk to another. Gradually it steadied down and began to climb up and up with a dogged determina- tion. All about it was an impenetrable darkness, crowding close upon the vivid illumination of the aspiring tunnel of light. “Ritt,”’ cried Amelie, suddenly “Tam frightened. Where are we? Where are you taking me?” He did not answer. She waited breath- lessly, but still he did not speak. Her body, held closely in the crook of his arm, began to tremble as with an ague. \ll the poise of the finished woman de- serted her by visible layers, leaving her more and more natural, naked and stripped of veneer Her teeth chattered, her lips grew parched, they ached with dryness She wet them with her tongue. Bourne felt the pounding of her heart against his breast. He put his face close to hers. Amelie,’ he asked, “are you awake? Have you really begun to feel? Has your blood started running up-hill?” amberlain’s Novel jrom page S00) I dont know what mered Amelie I only a coward—not really in her throat. I'm not a coward, again, and with each stifiened, grew slowly cord. The car stopped Her limbs, all her quivering, as to and transcending effort. Loies! she screamed, full-throated, pouring the whole sum of herseli, the last drop of her pent-up strength, into the cry. I'm here, Amelie,” said Stephen hoarsely. Damn you, give her to me! you mean,” stam- know that I'm not a coward.” <A lump She fought it down. she said again and repetition her body vibrant as a strung rose Bourne lifted her out. body, were rigid, yet one supreme, desperate PTEPHEN arms. He smiling panic, the wheel with the machine his un- car, seize and whirl reckless disre- cliff. in in tightly turn held his wife watched bourne spring into the nervous hands around with a gard for rocks, stumps, or the nearby He quite still, listening while the whir of the engine drew swiftly away until it died, leaving behind it a profound si- lence. Then, gradually, he became con- scious of a movement or a throbbing sound, It was Amelie’s heart, beating furiously against his side with a staccato, interrupted rhythm that had a choke in it like a sob. She clung to him with both hands as though, but her desperate grip, her body would only slip to the ground but dissolve. He held her still more closely and pres- ently she shuddered and began to weep un- restrainedly. The tears poured down her cheeks: she cried with a will, a whole- heartedness which surpassed in intensity any outburst her childhood, and while she cried she burrowed her wet face deeper and deeper into his coat. He patted her on the back and marveled at the nearness, warmth and mobility of her flesh. It seemed to him that never before had she been so near to him, hovering on the brink of total possession. Such moments of unbridled plunge immediately toward fulfilment of the heart's desire or they suffer an abrupt reaction. Stephen was too dazed or too un- stood ior not emotion believing of his good fortune to press while the luck was with him, but even if he had realized his opportunity he might still have let it slip, intent as he was on a sweeping readjustment, a complete under- standing and its consequent rebuilding. He had heard most of the talk between his wife and Gourne, and while at the first the situation had amused even while it filled him with rage, it had ended by arous- ing in him all the elemental passions of the genuinely jealous male. When he had demanded Amelie of Bourne, he had been ripe for combat, so ripe that had he been armed he would have shot his friend with- out the slightest compunction. The same temper was still in his mood; he was seek- ing no compromises. E let Amelie finish her cry, and when he felt her slowly pulling herself to- gether he almost welcomed the change. Finally she drew herself free of his arms, fished out an inadequate handkerchief and started to dab her eyes: then from her hand-bag she took a vanity case and by the light of the newly risen moon prepared to powder her nose. Stephen reached forward, took the case from her, not hastily but firmly, and threw it far from him. It fell with a splash in the pond. ‘You won't need that here,’ he said quietly. Amelie measured him with leveled eyes. She had been wearing no hat and her disheveled hair stood out about her head She raised her hand as though, which its like a filmy nimbus. slowly and laid it over her heart quite independently of the matters held her thoughts, she was curious at continued rapid beating. “So,” she said finally, “you and Ritt laid a trap for me, such a trap as would fit a chorus girl. Stephen met her gaze fairly. “The most skilful and ornate traps in the world.” he said, “have always been laid for chorus girls, but, without flattery, I wouldn't have picked this setting to snare the best of them. Come into the house.” “I’m not coming into the house.” said Amelie. “I'm not going to stay here with you. I dont know you.” “Suit yourself.’ said Stephen, indiffer- ently. “You'll find it a long walk through the woods, but there’s only the one road.” He left her, went into the cabin, lit a lamp, sat down and waited. Only half an hour elapsed before she appeared in the doorway, but he had had ample time to formulate his plans. He did not move. She took a tentative step into the room

HARPER’S BAZAR

te, and waited, | ut still he paid her no heed “Well? he asked. ; ; 4 HEN she spoke, he looked up and stared at her from a strange letach- ment. He had never before thought of her as satisfyingly beautiful except to his own eyes, but the woman before him would have

struck a resounding chord of response in almost any man. She had lost or forgotten the cold security of demeanor which (Amelie had worn like a suit of daily armor, and still she did not appear de- fenseless; her charms had merely come to breathing life, pressed to the surface, taken possession of her as a sentient and positiy. being cut loose from the drag of the eter- nally foreseen and imbued with the expec- tant light of a new dawn. In less florid language, she had acquired the vivacity of curiosity, the ardor and courage of ox- ploration, Get ready something to eat, said Stephen, “and after that you can dig out the linen and make up the bed.” Boies, are you joking?” asked Amelie. the spots of color in her cheeks deepening, No,” said Stephen. “I’m not joking. I've been working for you for seven years you have been under the illusion that you were working for me. Now your're going to learn the difference between bored boss- ing around of a bunch of maids and plain, everyday productive labor. You're going to work until your back aches and _ the sooner you make up your mind to it, the better for both of us.” Amelie gave him a long look, dropped her hands to her sides and turned slowh toward the door. Stephen leaped to his feet, reached it before her and slammed it shut with his foot. Then he turned and faced her. His eyes shone with such a glint as she had never before seen in them. His eyebrows twitched spasmodically, but his jaw was not trembling; it was set firmly in a square, forward line. ‘Amelie,’ he said, hoarsely, “listen to me. I've never in my life talked to you as I'm going to talk now. I want you to believe me when I tell you that you are going to do as 1 say or I am going to kill you. I’m glad you don't laugh at that, Amelie, because if you did, I would show you. I couldn't take a whip to you, or my fists. I couldn't do that; I’ve thought it out. I couldnt raise welts on you, bruise you, make vou ugly, or.do anything that stops half way. But you know my hands, Amelie, how strong they are, and if you don’t turn around and get to work, by God above us, I'll put my fingers around your throat and that will be the end, Amelie— the absolute, peaceful, eternal end.” They looked at each other intently, their eyes wide, their breasts heaving, their fists tightly clenched: they stood insulated from every normal contact of humdrum liie by a swirling circumambient of souls at first play with fire. OIES,” said a whisper, believe you; but that?” “Because I’m tired of all half rations,” answered Boies: ‘because I refuse to join the majority, because life after a break-up wouldn't leave me whole, and I refuse to be a walking sepulcher. That’s one side of it. The other is that you're my woman. Nothing can change that; you can’t change almost in that? I feel like Amelie finally, “why do you say why do you it and live. I knew it, but I didn’t realize it. or take in the whole truth of it, until I heard Ritt Bourne making love to you— to my woman. Now get to work.” For a moment Amelie continued to look at him. A slow smile crept into her eyes and then to the corners of her mouth. Still carrying that smile, she turned from his stern visage, went to the bed and began to open the baskets Bourne had left there in the morning. She paused over one which contained toilet articles for herself: plain cotton nightgowns and a couple 0! gingham aprons; examined its contents curiously, put on one of the aprons and then set the basket aside. She carried the parcels by armfuls and arranged them on the shelves in the corner of the great room which served as pantry, dining-hall and kitchen. Then she set the table for one, lit the small oil stove, put on a skillet, and began to cook. Long after the resulting odors had made his question unnecessary Stephen isked, “What are you cooking?” “Ham and eggs,” answered Amelie \ “J don’t want ham and_ eggs,” said Stephen. “Cook something else.” The smile at the corners of her mouth trembled and died. She dropped the knife with which she was turning the ham with a clatter to the floor. and started to untie her apron. (Continued on pace 84)

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HARPER’S BAZAR POT OF GOLD George Agnew Chamberlain’s Novel (Continued from page 82) “Eat ham and eggs,” she said with a dull finality, “or kill me whenever you get ready. I beg your pardon,” said Stephen hasti- ly. “L was wrong. I'll eat ham and eggs.” Amelie looked across at him with a last doubting but defiant flash. “And you'll fetch the water and keep me in kindling and wood. Real men have always done that.’ She stood waiting for his answer, as though her new world hung on. it. \ll right,’ said Stephen, after a long pause. “I'll fetch the water and light the stove for you in the mornings.” Amelie turned her head to stare at the oil stove, bit her lip, and then very slowly resumed her smile and her cooking. She warmed a plate and the bread, and pres- ently told him in an unnaturally subdued voice that supper was ready. He arose and took the single place set at the table without remark. She stood at his shoul- der, sliced his bread and poured his water. The despised ham and eggs were consumed with apparent relish, but in silence. When the meal was over, he went to the door, threw it open, drew a chair into the chill air and lit his pipe. Behind him he could hear Amelie preparing something for her- self, eating, and then clearing things away, and afterward making the bed. He was very tired; he had driven over three hundred miles since early morning, and he welcomed the thought of bed, but before he could put it into execution, he fell sound asleep in the big chair in which he sat. Amelie spoke to him coldly, ask- ing him to let her pass and when he did not answer, stood for a moment in hesita- tion as to whether she should initiate an- other battle for her rights; then she saw that he was really asleep, stepped carefully over his legs, went out on the gallery and finally descended to the rock and sat down by the water’s edge. The moon was high in the heavens, and by its light she could study at leisure the details of the cabin and all its surroundings. They were pleas- ant to the eye; they attracted her. She began to feel a drowsy well-being, arose hurriedly by an effort of the will, slipped back quietly into the house, undressed and put out the lamp. WHEN she awoke, it was morning, and both Stephen and his chair were gone from the doorway, which was still wide open. The bed was so placed that she could look out across the platform of rock directly in front of the cabin to a single gnarled pine which clung to the very verge of the pool, its roots fastened like clamps around the weathered edges of the granite and piercing it wherever they could find a crevice. Beside the black trunk of the tree stood in startling contrast the naked figure of Stephen, erect, poised like an arrow on a taut bow-string. The stocky impression he gave when he had his clothes on was subtly modified by their absence. His stripped body was a thing of beauty; it tapered in sweeping, diminishing curves from broad shoulders to narrow hips and from hips to ankles. He raised his arms very slowly until, fingers touching, they made a Gothic point above his head. Beneath him the dark pool had been transformed to a _ misty cloud of gray; fog hung tenaciously to its surface in the face of the rising sun and here and there cast up a wisp or a plume as though inviting and daring the bather. His body inclined rigidly forward like a falling tree, shot out and plunged from sight. Amelie drew a long, quivering breath. In the hushed morning stillness she could hear the swirl of the strokes of the unseen swimmer growing fainter and fainter as he struck straight out from shore. She imag- ined with a terrifying intensity the feel of the chill water on his warm and active limbs, She envied him. Never before had she felt so strange and sensuous a desire for an inanimate contact. It seemed to her that above all other desires she wanted to feel her body, herself, free of all tram- melings, immersed in the open water, cut- ting its stilly surface with the stroke of a white arm that should drip jewels in her upturned face. No need for clammy bath- ing suit and confining rubber cap! HE sighed, then caught her breath, slipped from the bed and in her cotton nightgown, pink-footed, picked her way gingerly to the edge of the cliff, laid her hand on the rough trunk of the pine tree for support and stood in comical, childlike hesitation rubbing the calf of her left leg with the arch of her right foot. The fingers of her free hand played with the buttons at her neck and slowly unfastened them. She slipped the gown from one shoulder and stared, startled at its smooth curve which

seemed to flush with maidenly shame at the kiss of the morning air. <A_ breeze arose as if to a challenge, stirred the hair lying loose upon her back, flapped the skirts of the slowly falling nightdress, and incident. ally swept the fog neatly from the face of the waters. “Amelie!” roared a genuinely voice! “Put on your clothes! to bed!” She caught the folds of the gown to her bosom with both hands; tears of disap- pointment rose to her eyes. She felt no shame, but as she turned and made he: way slowly back to the cabin she grey grave with wonder at the new spirit, the elf, the stranger, that had possessed her body. , WHEN Stephen entered, he made no mention of the nude incident, but he stared at Amelie for a moment with a blank, quizzical look, such as one might bestow on a tadpole hovering at the brink of the estate of frogdom. She glanced at him quite coolly. She was fully dressed and aproned, and seemed to him and to herself to have gone through a complete change of identity since the juvenile scene of only half an hour before. She had done her hair very neatly, and though neither oj them realized it, this simple little fact alone implied an entire cycle of psycho- logical phenomena. It was the emblem by which woman proclaims that she has once more succeeded in squaring the circle and is back again at normal. “Good morning,” said Stephen. “Good morning,” replied Amelie. “I don’t mind your eating with me,” he continued, in the voice of an assumed con- cession. “Hurry things along. We're go- ing fishing.” Amelie paused in her work for a mo- ment, as though she were considering a crucial point with proper deliberation finally she set the table for two, broke two more eggs and presently announced break- last. “It's ham and eggs again,” she said, apologetically, ‘but perhaps it will be fish for dinner.” They ate in silence, and while she washed the dishes Stephen busied himself with preparing two of the half dozen long bamboo fishing-poles with which the cabin was stocked, and with an excursion in search of worms, grasshoppers and a few small frogs. As soon as he was ready, he led the way to the chunky flat-bottomed boat and took the oars. Amelie, wearing a broad-brimmed garden hat, which she had discovered in her thorough overhaul- ing of the premises, sat in the stern, star- ing with anticipatory horror at the squirm- ing assortment of bait, promiscuously tan- gled in the bottom of a large glass jar. Stephen sent the boat along over the glassy surface of the water with long, lazy strokes; both of them filled their eves with the glory of the autumnal woods under the slanting morning light. ¢ she « ked Get back H" rowed slowly into the shade of the shore. There he stopped and studied Amelie solemnly for some time. There was something unsatisfactory to his mood in the way she was seated; he felt that she had not quite earned the right to be all of a sudden so confoundedly natural in his presence, and when she smiled, he nodded his head gravely as one who says, thought so,” and decided to speak. “Amelie,” he said, quite seriously, “there was one flaw in what I said to you last night. When I said I'd kill you, I meant it and you know that I meant it; but un- fortunately you know just as certainly that that horrible possibility passed the moment you gave in to me. The weakness in my position is that you may not feel bound by the sporting obligation to carry through your half of that bargain; so I’ve had to think up something else. I can imagine you forgiving a man for knocking you down, but I can’t see you forgiving him for spanking you, and that’s what I'll do to you, if you don’t toe the mark—spank you just the way your mother used to do. That’s all of that; I’ll promise not to harp back to it unless you make me. Now you'd better climb ashore and run along home: I’ll be there in a little while and, just this once, I'll clean the fish.” The stern of the boat bumped on the rocks. Amelie arose, hesitated, started to speak, changed her mind, frowned, smiled, stepped ashore, ran along home and got to work. She put the room in order, and then rather distractedly began her preparations for the cooking of a real dinner. One complication after another arose, for each of which she had to dig out an expedient (Continued on page 86)

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39 too “Her Gown was of Belding’s, HEN mother was a girl, a silk dress was a prized possession to be re modeled, cleaned, turned, and worn for many seasons. Belding’s Silks now as then—are famous for their wearing qualities. In them is pre- served the full strength of the natural silk fibre. They are beautiful with the enduring loveliness which has made Belding’s Silks a tradition in our best homes. The selvage mark shows you the genuine Belding’s backed by a guarantee of established value. Heldinog’s Enduring Silks-Fabrics-Spool Silk Satin Circé Nancette - Satin Negligee - Satin Crépe - Baskette - Taffeta - Chiffon de Chine - BELDING BROTHERS & CO. Satin Duchesse Crépe de Chine HARPER’S BAZAR POT OF GOLD (Continued from page 84) from a portion of her housewife’s mind, which had well-nigh atrophied from long disuse. Before half an hour had passed her brain, her eyes, her arms and her back ached. She remembered that Boies had said she would work for him till her back ached, but dismissed the recollection promptly. Something else absorbed all her attention; the question as to which was to be the victorious warrior, she or the mid- day meal. When he came in with the fish, cleaned, scraped, washed and ready for the skillet, he found her very pale, but with the light of impending conquest in her eye. It was a happy dinner, one of those un- forgettable meals during which food goes right to the spot, but where the body re- tains the power to tingle at the casual con- tact of fingers across the table. When they had eaten their fill, she arose and went about the business of clearing up with that demure look on her countenance commonly associated only with kittens after stolen cream. With the drying of the last dish Amelie dropped the towel on the table from sheer inertia, walked unsteadily across the room, collapsed half on the couch, half on the floor, and immediately fell sound asleep. Stephen stared at her for several minutes before he could convince himself that she really slept; then he picked her up as one would lift a log, rolled her over, put a dark-green linen cushion under her head, a rug across her feet and made her generally comfortable. He sat down in a_ nearby chair and watched her for an hour. She slumbered steadily with that light, accu- rately spaced breathing which presages a long, long sleep. He left the cabin and went for a walk. Due east of Long Leg Hole, across a deep valley, arose a hill of almost equal level and on its top was a great boulder silhou- etted against the sky. It caught his eve and he made for it. When he reached it he found that only its western face was sheer; its top was almost level with the soil. He walked out to its edge and filled his eyes with the glorious view, but wher- ever he looked he saw the face of Amelie. flushed in sleep, framed in tumbled hair against the background of a half-embracing dark-green pillow. H' drew a long, deep breath of the cool air and realized that he was happy \ smile came into his eyes and played about the corners of his mouth. He thought of Ritt Bourne, his heart warmed; he made a mental note of an apology only twenty hours due. Twenty hours! He felt that he was a month and a world away from yesterday, and with that thought came the realization that he was a good five miles away from Amelie. How had he come to put that distance between them? What if she should awake, find him absent and think him gone? He sprang to his feet, leaped from the rock and plunged headlong down toward the valley. When he reached the cabin, he was hot and breathless. He rushed into its great living-room with the name of Amelie on his lips, ready to shout. She was still lying on the couch as he had left her, still sound asleep. He kneeled at her side and leaned over her, bringing his eyes close to her face. He saw the very conformation of the texture of her smooth skin and mar- veled at its niinute mechanism, never be- fore discovered. He felt her breath, cool and sweet in his dilated nostrils, and knew it for the wine of love. He brought his nose close to her nose, his lips close to her lovely mouth and murmured in a smiling yet reverent adoration, “Flesh of my flesh.” She stirred restlessly and whispered his name. A look of wonder swept across his face. He felt the age-long pride of the ac- cepted lover stumbling by God-sent chance on incontrovertible proof of his tenure in the heart of his beloved. He laid his hand lightly upon her bosom. She stirred again and raised her arms as if to stretch. They struck his overhanging shoulders and sleep- ily changing their intention, crept about his neck, drew slowly tight, and hugged him in an impulsive strangling hold. ies,’ she whispered. Amelie,” he breathed close to her s01eS, “Ves, face ‘Love me.” “I do love you, darling, with all my heart.” “Love me,” she repeated. His hands slipped beneath her shoulders and with his arms around her yielding body he crushed her to him and fastened his lips on her mouth. She struggled at last and fought for breath, but her arms still clung about his neck. He released her from the long kiss, forced back her head and gazed into her eyes, still drowsy, still bemused with the great awakening. “Amelie,” he said hoarsely, “you'll never leave me again? Never?” She shook her head violently from side to side and buried her face against “his breast. OURNE had driven away from Lone Leg Hole in a chaotic state oj mind. All the way out, during his long conversa. tion with Amelie, he had been up to mis- chief and had known it. He had started with the best intentions in the world to work Amelie up to such a pitch of excite- ment and receptiveness as would give Stephen a chance to strike from the first on hot iron. He had succeeded admirably in that intent, but at the same time he felt that he had tormented his friend be- yond the fair limit of endurance. Never would he forget the tone and the look with which Stephen had damned him and de- manded Amelie. In this mood he arrived at home very late in the night, but neither gloomy fore- bodings nor speculations as to the dra- matic events which presumably were evoly- ing at Long Leg Hole could keep him awake after so many hours on the road. He went to sleep promptly and having taken the precaution to pin on his door a note addressed to Simon, the old butler. warding off disturbance, he slept far into the following day. Bourne awoke, bathed listlessly, ate with- out relish, read the morning paper, includ- ing the social column, with apathy, and foolishly spent the whole of the afternoon in his dressing-gown. He stared at his re- flection in a long door-mirror and won- dered disgustedly how six feet of brawn and muscle, a square-chinned, clear-eyed face and thirty-two years of experience with the ups and downs of life could feel so abandoned, so miserable, so_ isolated from the sunshine outside, so aimlessly lonely. He decided that under no con- ceivable circumstances would he attend that night the opening ball of the Bache- lors’ series. He asked himself if any other full-grown man of his acquaintance ever sank into such a puerile estate of seli- helplessness, and concluded that he was the loneliest mortal in the great city. In this assumption he was wrong. Only twenty blocks away the genuinely loneli- est person in the world was sitting on the edge of her bed in an adorable negligée of sea-green silk breaking at the edges into a foam of creamy lace and staring disconso- lately out of the window at an extremely uninteresting square of blank blue sky. For five days she had been as terribly alone as one can be only in a crowded city which contains no single familiar face; for just two days short of a whole week Janet, the casual rock to which she had anchored the argosy of her precarious fate, had been sunk out of sight and beyond the ken oi her professional haunts in the duties of nursing sundry blood-relations — stricken with the Spanish influenza. The young person, whom this chronicle has known through the respectful lips of the hotel lady’s maid only as Miss Allo- way, turned from sky-gazing to make a determined efiort toward cheering herseli up. As some girls, full-grown and old enough to know better, still delight to play secretiy and tenderly—God bless them!— with dolls, it was her habit to play with fancies. From being tragically pensive, her face suddenly assumed a look of lively animation. She glanced at the clock. Heavens! she was due to lunch at the Ritz in only half an hour! She leaped to her feet, ran to the closet, slipped from their holders an armful of frocks and laid them out side by side on the bed. Which should she wear? Her brows puckered in concentrated thought; she raised a pointed finger to her lips and touched them lightly. It was to be a larse party, eight at least, rather formal. She thought of the women first and then 0! the men, The women she could see rather clearly, but the men were vague, all but one. He was tall and had crisp hair: he had stared at her in such a nice, unseeing way in the elevator. She wondered if he would remember: perhaps he would say, “I’m sure I have seen you before. Now tell me, haven’t 1?” And she would smile for just a moment, look at him from slant- ing eyes and say, with apparent irrele- vance, “Sometimes when I’m feeling des perately lonely, I cry. Not hard, you know. Just a funny tear or two,” an would cry out, “By Jove! I knew it! In the elevator!” And then she would talk to him, talk of things that no other woman could possibly imagine. The girl laughed aloud and glanced quickly over the dresses on the bed; she would choose for him and for him alone. Which should it be? There would be a™ other man there; the forward, conceite person of the theatre steps, but not at their iavle. He would be sitting nearby with 4 (Continued on ’2ge 88)

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CHARM, INDIVIDUALITY, ART so gracefully combined make RAW AK HATS the choice of discriminating women. LONDON PARIS 48 West 38TH STREET N — w YorrtK Hill | the privilege of her | lowed from sight by the elevator. HARPER’S BAZAR POT OF GOLD (Continued from page 86) rather frowsy woman. One should dress to punish all such people; she must strike a sure note of womanly elegance, not too girlish, not too old, something that would act as a foil to her pallor and stil] not belie her youth. She decided; she put away all but one of the frocks, slipped off her negligée and began to dress. A’ last she was ready, all but one fas- tener at the back which, squirm and turn as she might, she could not quite reach. But no matter; it would not be noticed. She picked up long gloves and crossed the room to pose before the pier glass. For a brief second of time her own eyes were entranced; they filled themselves with the vision of herself all in black. There was no severity, no somberness in the filmy dark cloud which enveloped yet disclosed her, Suddenly she wounded her reflected self with the arrow of a hurt glance. What a | waste that no eye but hers should see the loveliness of her soft but potent armor! What an outrage there was none who | might whisper, “You look divine to-day!” | What a shame upon men that not one of | them could wear her at his side like a | pearl shining in a patch of velvet night! She tried to hold her vivacious smile, but could not; she turned from the mirror with a passionate rebellious gesture and sank on her knees beside the bed, her arms out- stretched, her face buried in the coverlet. | But her despair lasted only for a moment; then she sprang up, and murmuring, “I’ve | had a perfectly lovely time, thank you,” | began to disrobe. | It was already late in the afternoon when the fanciful play had begun and now } evening was falling. She decided discon- | solately to eat in her room and ordered a |} simple meal and all the new magazines. | Dressed once more in her negligée, she | trifled with the food and then settled down |in bed to read. Hours passed and then | her eye, skimming the social calendar of a | current magazine, fell upon a paragraph of | hyperbole on the significance to a select | world of the first of the Bachelors’ Dances |of the current season. Immediately she | began to dream again, to see herself won- derfully attired, hastening to add her youth and beauty to this gayest of all gay events. | Again she glanced at the clock; again she saw that she had not a moment to spare. She arose, brushed her hair, tossed it high upon her head, caught it here and there with a hairpin and speared it with a high onyx and topaz comb. She sur- veyed it in hand-glass and mirror and stared in unbelief at the felicitous effect her carelessness had imparted. From that moment her preparations took on an added seriousness and when at last she was com- pletely garbed, save for one obstinate hook and eye low down in the center of her back, she reached automatically for the telephone and asked for the chambermaid. The woman came, opened the door at the girl’s word of command, and stood there for a long moment, literally spellbound. “My dress,’ said the girl. ‘There's just one hook I can't reach.” “Yes, darling,’ said the woman, taking years and _ station. “There, now.” Then she added after a pause, during which her faded eyes had filled with tears for the sheer pleasure of looking, “Eh, but you are as beautiful as a wake, Miss.” HE girl laughed happily and picked up her black evening coat of velvet and lace: the woman hastened to take it from her and to place its cup about her bare shoulders; then she asked if she should order a taxi. For a second only the girl hesitated, but her spirit arose in arms against a too sudden awakening. “y “Tell them I Yes,” she commanded. want it at once.” She sat gingerly on the edge of the bed, tapping the carpet with a slipper that was impatient, not nervous, and gazing before her with the look and the smile of breath- less anticipation. The cab was announced; she arose and said good night to the an- cient chambermaid, who followed her at several paces’ distance until she was swal- The ef- fect she produced in the lobby was fully as flattering. Wayfarers stopped in their tracks and stared at her, but not rudely; bellboys, porters and clerks ceased all labor to watch her pass: none molested her, all seemed to claim a share in a beauty which belongs, in a sense, to the whole world, the beauty of free and unsullied things such as sunlight, white-capped seas and the heart of any fire. She sped to the door as lightly and as proudly as foam riding home on the crest of a high wave. The starter held wide the door of the waiting cab and | bowed low. “Where to, Miss?” he asked. “To the Vanderbilt,” answered the girl promptly. “The south door.” 2 She bowed and smiled her thanks to him as the cab started, and almost immediately aiter crumpled into a pitiful heap in the darkest of its corners. The most courage- ously piloted dream cannot last forever she had postponed awakening to the last moment, but now it would take a sure hand indeed to save the frail craft of her fancy from crashing on the rocks oi reality She asked herself almost wildly what she was to do. When the maid had suggested a cab, it had seemed so simple a thing to take a ride in her fine feathers and return at will; but now she knew that she could no more return immediately to the lobby that had done her such eloquent homage than she could actually go to the Bache. lors’ Dance. She thought of allowing the cabman to reach the very door and then tell him to drive on to the park where she could give herself time to think things out, but when the moment ior action arrived she decided it would be easier, as well as more digni- fied, to dismiss him and take another who knew not whence she came. The doorman handed her ceremoniously to the sidewalk By an instinctive impulse of savoir-jair; she gave him the dollar bill she held ready with which to pay her public conveyance and stepped forward toward the revolving door that gave access to the first exclusive function of the season. On leaving the cab she had become aware of two walls of curious faces. They hedged her in and seemed to challenge her: they expected oj her pride, pomp and the right thing. N the meantime, the persisting feminine traits which lurk in the blood of the manliest of men had been raising havoc with Mr. Bourne, the younger. He had changed his mind seven times during the evening as to whether or not he would make an attempt to banish care by danc- ing with other men’s wives, mistresses and sweethearts, had finally decided about ten o'clock to return to bed and stay there, and five minutes later had found himself, to his own genuine amazement, uncon- sciously donning his best evening clothes with meticulous care. He took this ab- sent-minded action as a sign sent direct from some heaven or other for his individ- ual guidance, and immediately his spirits began to rise. He went to the ball. He arrived immediately behind the girl. “here was nothing about her back that he could recognize, nothing in the high carriage of her head and shoulders as she entered the door to denote that she was quivering from the crown of her hair to the soles of her satin-slippered feet; noth- ing in her bearing to show that never be- fore had she been so near to a ballroom or so close to displaying in public the lines of her delicately molded shoulders and young round arms. The rear view of her smart sleeveless coat, with its high flaring collar of soft velvet and its enveloping folds of black lace, merely told him that he was following a young woman of fash- ion and most exceptional taste in clothes The animation, which had come to liie in the girl’s face at command of an indomitable will as she crossed the side- walk, froze to a look of dejection without terror as she found herself in the green and white lobby which served as anteroom to the dancing hall. In a flash she saw the eyes of the official sitting at the ticket table pick her up and hold her for future reference and the first movement of 4 flunky springing forward to direct her to the ladies’ room. Setting her teeth firmly to meet the ordeal of the buzz of curiosity which was sure to arise behind and _beiore her as she should reach the sidewalk, she followed the revolving door around without pausing, but in spite of all she could do in the way of resolution, a big round tear forced its way out of one of her widely staring eyes and bounded down her cheek. Out of an agony of shame, she saw through the glass panel of the door the astound face of the young man of the elevator. He followed her out; he accosted her without the slightest hesitation and in 4 masterful manner which indicated long pre- meditation. In a daze she heard him say for herself and for the crowd, “I beg you to forgive me. I’m sorry I was late. She felt him lightly take hold of her elbow and pilot her once more into the fateful door. With her senses still in a_ whirl, she heard him say to the flunky, “Madame will keep her wrap,” and to the man dis- pensing tickets, “A table for two. If you haven't got one, make one. We'll take anything vacant in the meantime.” A? the next minute she was seated and asking in her low modulated voice, breaking 4 most but not quite into a gasp, for * glass of water, please.” (To be continued in the March issue)

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FEBRUARY 1921 day - Thorpe Ine. 24-26 FIFTY-SEVENTH STREET WEST NEW YORK Paris alm Beach Presenting New Individual Models | for Spring 1—Imported dotted 2—This charming model Swiss trimmed with al- is of fine quality crepe de | ternating strips of open chine with pleated panels work and Organdie. This and a soft belt. It comes model can be had in jade, in navy, black, and fawn, rose, or copen blue; also but it can also be had in in white with various light colors . . 79.50 colored dots . 55.00 Ten days will be required for special colors or sizes not in stock. The hats illustrated on the models are from the Millinery Salons of Jay-Thorpe, Inc. Prices on request. e————— ' 4 i | mo Os" con Kal Cflattening-(offect” q Model Brassieres Impart the modish figure. “| =e preserve the slim ~ and~trim lines 6 of Girlhood in- the - bud and confer irlish lines to Maturity. They not only _ the figure unconfined ease in use f ut also possess unexampled elegance \ : in tailoring and trimming. | ODEL Brassieres are made at all prices, 1 in all favored styles and types of |] fastening-Flattening-Effect, Bandeau 1| Brassiere, Evening Decollete, Regulation Brassiere, Full Figure and Diaphragm Reducing Look For The Model Label and Guarantee Sor Sale Everywhere illustrated Style Book sent upon request INCORPORATED epartment H D 200 Fifth Avenue, NewYork an Vie Model Yyrassiere io Seyie 1280 ( iinetrace: 4 Silk Brocade Flattening- effect Bandeau $9 50 brassiere = The Ambassador Hotels System OO CATED in cities which most Americans visit for pleasure or business, these hotels offer true hospitality and incompar- able cuisine and service. Mod- erate tariffs. (= The cAmbassador, New York The cAmbassador, Atlantic City The cAmbassador, Los Angeles The Alexandria, Los Angeles The cAmbassador, Santa Barbara (The Ambassador ‘New Yorks Most Distinctive Hotel New Yorkers, accustomed to good hotels, have watched the construction of this splendid Ambassador on Park Avenue between 51st and 52nd Streets, with unusual approval. Announcement of its opening means a new achievement—a new pride for the metropolis. Facing Park Avenue, one of the world’s most stately boulevards, yet touching the theatre and shopping dis- trict, The Ambassador offers unusual qualities of ap- pointments, environment and service. Delightful fountain garden, tea room, grill and ball room for special social functions. Spacious guest rooms, each with out- side exposure, may be engaged singly or en suite. Rates $6 and up, European Plan

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|| Fur Vraps of Quiet Elegance Leonard Simmons Fur Wraps are, in their design, the em- bodiment of the mode’sdecrees, and in their making, they are ] the fulfillment of the qualities / which their design implies. Z shown ex- Fur Wraps are Leonard Simmons /t by smart Fur S/ ps the ‘ “STCLY WUnTIY OU. ‘ y 4) H. LEONARD SIMMONS & CO. ] TEN EAST THIRTY-NINTH STREET NEW YORK CITY : LEONARD SIMMONS MM hs \ LEA ZIZZZZZ o, oe = LLZ2Z2—0—222"— 7 > ZZZZz is BLA i Z ae ah ah )_ BEM AE MEME the other “That big window, where they've just opened the shutters, is at the end of the long library; all these windows belong to it. I expect they'll stick the philosopher in there, if he wants to philoso- phize “The philosopher seems to be philosoph- ical about draughts,” observed Dr. Garth. e, or somebody else, has opened three more windows and seems to be struggling with another.” As he spoke the fifth window burst open; 4 and even from where they stood they could see a creeper that had strayed across it snap and drop with the gesture. It had the look of the snapping of some green chain securing the house like a prison. For Mallow, against all his prejudices, felt the presence and pressure of that revo- lutionary ideal which he recognized as his rival All along the shuttered facade of the old brown house, the windows were opening one after another, like the eyes of an Argus waking from his giant sleep. He was forced to admit to himself that he had never seen the place thus coming to life from within, as a plant unfolds itself. The last three windows were not open to the morning; the long room must already be full of light, to say nothing of air. Garth had spoken of a philosopher en- during draughts; but it seemed more as if a pagan priest were turning it into a temple of the winds. But there was more in that morning vision than the mere accident of a row of windows open, when they were commonly closed. The same fancy about unfolding life seemed to fill the whole scene like a new atmosphere. It was as if a fresh air had streamed out of the win- dows instead of into them. The sun was already fairly high, but it came out of the morning mists above the house with some- thing of the silent explosion of daybreak. The very shapes of the forest trees, spread- ing themselves like fans, seemed to repeat the original word “radiant,” which he had thought of idly, almost as a Latin pun Sailing over his head, as if sent flying by a sort of centrifugal force, the clouds still carried into the heights of noon the colors of sunrise, He felt all the fresh things that he feared coming at him by an irrepressible expansion. Everything seemed to enlarge itself. Even when his eye fell on a stunted gate-post standing alone in the old garden, he could fancy that it swelled, as he stared at it. \ sharp exclamation from his friend woke him from his unnatural day-dream, which might rather be called, by a contra- diction, a white nightmare of light. “By blazes, he’s found another window,” cried the doctor, “a window in the roof.” There was, indeed, the gleam of a sky- light, which caught the sun at an angle as it was forced upwards. and out of the open- ing emerged the moving figure of a man. Little could be seen of him at that dis- tance except that he was tall and slim and had vellow hair, which looked like gold in the strong sun. He was dressed in some long light-colored garment, probably a dressing-gown, and he stretched his long limbs as if with the sleepy exultation of one arisen from sleep. Then he spread out his arms with a new movement: it was as if they were wings. “Look here.’ said Mallow, suddenly, an indescribable expression flashing across his face and vanishing. “I'm going to pay a call.” “IT rather thought vou might.’ answered Garth. “Do you want to go alone?” As he spoke, he looked round for the rest of the company, but Galton and Hut- ton were still chatting some distance away on the other side of the hill, and only Gale still lay in the shadow of the thick trees staring up at the birds as if he had never stirred. Garth called to him by name, but it was only after a silence that Gale spoke. What he said was, “Were you ever an isosceles triangle?” “Very seldom,” replied Garth, with re- straint. “May TI ask what the devil you are talking about?” “Only something I was thinking about,” answered the poet, lifting himself onto one elbow. “I wondered whether it would be a cramping sort of thing to be surrounded by straight lines, and whether being a cir- cle would be any better. Did anybody ever live in a round prison?” “Where do you get these cracked no- tions?” inquired the doctor. “A little bird told me,” replied Gale, gravely. “Oh, it’s quite true. I’ve been listening to little birds all the morning.” E had risen to his feet by this time, and came slowly forward to the brow of the hill, looking across at the house by the river. As he looked, his dreamy blue eyes seemed to wake up like the windows opening in the house he gazed at. “Another bird,” he said softly, “like a (Continued from page BIRD 67) sparrow on the housetops. in with it exactly.” There was some suggestion of truth in the phrase, for the strange figure was standing on the very edge of the roof with space below him and his hands sprea almost as if he wished to fly But the last sentence, and still more the strange manner in which it was spoken, puzzled the doctor completely “Fits in with what?” sharply. He's like that yellow bird,” said Gale vaguely. “In fact he is a yellow bird. with that hair and the sun on him. What did you say you thought it was—a yellow- hammer?” “Yellowhammer yourself!” retored Garth “You're quite as yellow as he is. In fact with your long legs and straw-colored hair. you're really rather like him.” Mallow, in his more mystical mood. looked strangely from one to the other, for indeed there was a certain vague similarity between the two tall fair-haired figures, the one on the house and the other on the hill “Perhaps I am rather like him,” said Gale quietly. ‘Perhaps I’m just sufficient- ly like him to learn not to be like him, so to speak. We may both be birds of a feather, the yellow feather, but we don't flock together, because he likes to flock by himself. And as to being a hammer, yel- low or otherwise—well, that also is an alle- gory.” “T decline to make head or tail of your allegories,’ said Dr. Garth, shortly. “T used to want a hammer to smash things with,” continued Gale, “but I've learned to do something else with a ham- mer, which is what a hammer is meant for, and every now and then I can manage to do it.” “What do you mean by that?” the doctor. “IT can hit the right nail on the head,” answered the poet. And that fits 1 out he asked, rather inquired T was not, in fact, until later in the day that Mallow paid his call at Mrs. Ver- ney’s house. Mrs. Verney was going up to the neighboring village for the afternoon. and Mallow had more than one motive for making his attack when the stranger was alone with his secretary. He had a gen- eral idea of using his friends to detach or detain the stranger, while he himsclf sought for explanations from the secretary; so he dragged Garth and Gale along with him to Mrs. Verney’s drawing-room, or rather he would have done so, if Gale had been an easy person to drag successfully anywhere But Gale had a tendency to get, detached from any such group, and was always be- ing left behind. Large as he was, he had a way of getting mislaid. His friends for- got him, as they had almost forgotten him when he was lying under the tree. It was not that he was unsociable; on the con- trary, he was very fond of his friends and very fond of his opinions, and always de- lighted to detail the latter to the former Strangers would have said that he was very fond of the sound of his own voice, but his friends, who were very fond of him, knew better. They knew that he had hardly ever heard his own voice, in the sense of listening to it. What made his movements incalculable was that his think- ing or talking would start from any small thing that seemed to him a large thing. What are to most men impressions, or hali- impressions, were to him incidents, and the chief incidents, of the day. ‘ Many imaginative people know what is meant by saying that certain empty rooms or open doors are suggestive: but he al- ways acted on the suggestion. Most of them understand that there can be some- thing vaguely inviting about a gap in 4 garden hedge, or the abrupt angle of 4 path, but he always accepted the invita- tion. The shape of a hill, or the corner of a house, checked nim like a challenge He wrestled with it seriously, till it had given up something of its secret, till he could put something like a name to his nameless fancy: and these things were ac tive adventures in his life. Hence it was that he would sometimes follow one train of thought for hours, as steadily as a bir winging its way homewards. But it might start anywhere: and hence in his actual movements he looked more like a floating tuft of thistledown caught upon any thorn. N this occasion his friends lost him, of left him behind, as they turned the corner of the house just 2fter passing a” old-fashioned bow window looking out on the garden. Outside the window stood a bowl of goldfish, and Gale stopped ab- ruptly and stared at it as if_he had never seen such a thing before. He had often maintained that the main object of a mans life was to see a thing as if he had never seen it before. But in this case the twr (Continued on page 92) HARPER’S BAZAR THE YELLOW rgd caweeneall

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, F Mi © Stein & Blaine INDIVIDUALITY in sports attire is attained in this audaciously smart pastime cos- tume of vivid red and white. Stein 2 Blaine 13 and 15 West 57th Street, New York ne ye Cent he Sel al So tlh HARPER’S BAZAR THE YELLOW BIRD Continued from page 90) light of the little empty room, touched here and there with the late afternoon sun- light, seemed somehow a subtle but suit- able background for the thing that he saw. The dark green sphere was alive with little living flames. “Why the devil do they call them gold- fish?’ he asked, almost irritably. ‘They’re a much more gorgeous color than gold; I've never seen it anywhere except in very rare red clouds in a sunset. Gold suggests yellow, and not the best yellow, either; not half as good as the clear lemon yellow of that bird I saw to-day. They're more like copper than gold. And copper is twenty times finer than gold. Why isn’t copper the most precious metal, I wonder?” He paused a moment, and then said, re- flectively: “Would it do, I wonder, when one is used to change a check in gold, to give a man coppers instead, and explain that they have much more of the rich tones of sunset?” His inquiry remained unanswered, for he made it to the empty air. His com- panions were deficient in his sense of the importance of goldfish, and had gone on impatiently to the main entrance of the house, leaving him lingering by the bowl near the bow window. He continued to look at it for a considerable time, and when at last he turned away, it was not to follow his friend, but to pace the paths of the garden in the deepening and darkening twi- light, revolving in his mind some occult romance, beginning with a bowl of fish. EANWHILE, his more practical friends, pursuing the main purpose of the story, had penetrated into the house and found at last the distinguished for- eigner, to whom they had no difficulty in introducing themselves. There had been many things in the garden, or the gateway, over which Mallow also might have been disposed to linger if his mood had been merely sentimental; an old swing standing by the corner of the orchard, the angle of a faded tennis lawn, the fork of a pear- tree, all of which had stories attached to them. But he was possessed of a pas- sionate curiosity far too practical for sen- timent of the merely reminiscent sort; he was resolved to run to earth the mystery of the new man in the old house. He felt that a change had come over everything with the man’s mere presence; and wished to know how far that change had gone. He half expected to see those familiar rooms swept bare, or filled with strange furniture, where the stranger had passed. Accident, indeed, gave to their passage through those empty rooms an air of pur- suit; as if something were escaping. For as they passed from an outer room into the long library, the stranger, who was at the other end by the window, emphasized his restless love of the open air by putting one long leg over the low window-sill and stepping out onto the lawn. He had evi- dently, however, no real desire to avoid them: for he stood there smiling in the sunlight, and uttered some greeting very pleasantly with a slight foreign accent. He was still wearing the long lemon- colored dressing-gown which, along with his yellow hair, had suggested the compar- ison of a yellow bird. Under the yellow hair his brow was broad, but not high, and the nose was not only long and straight, but came down in a single line from the forehead in the manner that may be seen in many Greek coins and carvings, but which has an unnatural and even sin- ister symmetry when seen in real life. There was nothing else eccentric, or exu- berant about him: his manners were casual, but not ungraceful: and nothing contra- dicted the sunny ease of his situation and demeanor except perhaps a slightly strained look in the eyes, which were eager and prominent. Until his acquaintances grew accustomed to it, as a fixed involuntary feature of his face, they occasionally had a sort of shock when catching his quiet face in shadow and realizing that the round eyes were standing out of his head. HE first thing the eyes seemed to en- counter was Dr. Garth’s hand-camera; and as soon as introductions and salutations had passed he plunged into talk about photography. He prophesied its extension at the expense of painting, and brushed aside the objection. which even the doctor offered, that painting had the superiority in color. “Color photography will soon be com- pleted,” he said hastily, “or rather, it will never be completed, but will always be im- proved. That is the point of science: you know more or less finally what can be done, well or ill, with a draughtman’s chalk or a sculptor’s chisel. But with us the instruments themselves are always changing. That's the real triumph of a telescope—that it is telescopic.” “Well,” said Mallow, grimly, “I shall wait for one more change in the camera as a scientific instrument, before I cut up my old easel for firewood.” “What change is that?” asked the Rus- sian with a kind of eagerness. “I shall wait till one of those tall cam- eras walks on its own three legs along a country lane, to pick out the view it likes best.” “Even something like that may be more possible than you think,” replied the other. “In these days when a man has his eyes and ears at the end of long wires, his own nerves, so to speak, spread over a city in the form of telephones and telegraphs, A great modern city will become a great machine with its handle in the human hand; thus only can a man become a giant.” OHN MALLOW looked at the man rather darkly for a moment, and then said: “If you are so very fond of a big mod- ern city,” he said, “why do you hide your- self in such a quiet little hole in the coun- try?” For a flash the stranger’s face seemed to wince and alter in the white sunlight: but the next instant he was still smiling, though he spoke a little more apologet- ically. “There is certainly more space,” he answered. “I confess I like a lot of space But even there the science of the city will ultimately provide its own remedy. The answer is in one word—aviation.” Before the other could reply the speaker went on, his prominent eyes kindly and his whole figure filling out with animation. He made a movement with his hand like a man throwing a stone into the air. “It’s upward the new extension will be,” he cried. “That road is wide enough, and that window is always open. The new roads will stand up like towers. The new harbors will stand far out in that sea above our heads, a sea you can never find the end of. It would be only a beginning to conquer the planets and colonize the fixed stars.” think,” said Mallow, “that you will have conquered the remotest star before you really conquer this one old corner of the earth. It has a magic of its own, which, I think, will outlast all such con- juring tricks. This was the home of Mer- lin; and though they say Merlin himself fell under a spell, it was not that of Marconi.” “No,” answered the stranger, still smil- ing. ‘We all know the spell under which Merlin fell.” Mallow knew enough about Russian in- tellectuals not to be surprised at their wide knowledge of the poetry and culture of the West. But here it seemed the almost sa- tiric symbol of a deeper familiarity: and a mocking whisper told him what might have chained this magician in that western valley. AURA VERNEY was coming across the garden towards them, with some pa- pers in her hand. She was of a red- haired full-blooded type, handsome in a fashion, which seemed to have a certain epicurean exuberance till she came near enough to show the concentrated serious- ness of her clear eyes; she might be called a pagan with the eyes of a puritan. She saluted her guests without any change of countenance, and handed the pa- pers to the professor without any word of comment. Something in her automatic manner seemed to sting Mallow to a final impatience and, picking up his hat from the window-sill, he called out in a loud and careless voice: “Laura, will you show me the way out of this garden? I’ve forgotten the way. It was sometime afterwards, however, that he said any sort of final farewell to her, under the shadow of the outer wall and near the ultimate gate of the garden. In the somewhat bitter intensity of his mood, he seemed rather to be exaggerating the finality of the farewell: not only touch- ing herself, but all the things which he had always felt to be full of her presence. “You will pull down that old swing, I suppose,” he had said, as they went through the garden, “and put up an electric steel swing that will take anybody in ten seconds to the moon.” p “I can’t pull down the moon, anyhow, replied the girl, with a smile, “and I dont know that I want to.” x “That’s rather reactionary of you,” re marked Mallow, “the moon is a very €% tinct volcano, valuable only to old fashioned romanticists. And I suppose you'll turn our old tennis lawn into a place where tennis can be played by machinery, by pressing buttons a hundred miles away. I’m not sure whether they've yet finish the plans for a pear-tree that grows pears by electricity.” (Concluded on page 94) ee, ——— . as Py

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© The Whole World Pays Tribute to Técla Pearls L the most exclusive social circles in London, Paris, Rome, and Madrid, no less than among smart women in New York and other leading American cities, Tecla Pearls share with Orientals the distinction of being the only pearls that women will wear who enjoy social prominence or aspire to it. One cannot compromise with imitations without being compromised. Tecla Pearl Necklaces with Genuine Diamond Clasps, $100 to $350 IWS ¢. ve ai Nii WW’ ~ JO Rue de la Paix. Paris 7 Old Bond Street, London HARPER’S B AZAR THE YELLOW BIRD (Continued from page 92) “But, surely,” she replied, looking a little troubled, “the world can go on with- out losing the things it seem to leave be- hind. I think that’s where you misunder- stand, It isn’t only going on; it’s more like growing outwards. It’s expansion, that’s the word; growing broader, alWays describ- ing wider and wider circles; but that only means more seli-fulfillment and _ theretore serenity and peace; it means—’” SHE stopped short, as if at a spoken answer; but it was only because the moon had flung a new shadow across her. It was from a figure standing on the wall. The moonshine made a halo of pale yellow round the head; and for a moment they thought it was the Russian, standing on the wall as he had stood on the root. Then Mallow looked more closely at the face in shadow, and uttered with some astonish- ment the name of Gale. You must get away from here at once,” aid the poet, sharply. “Everybody who cun must get away from this house. There's no time to explain.” As he spoke, he sprang from the wall and alighted beside them, and his friend, catching his face in a new light, saw that it was quite pale, “What's the matter with you?” he de- manded. “Have you seen a ghost?” “The ghost of a fish,” answered the poet. “Three gray ghosts of three little fishes. We must get away at once.” Without turning his head again, he led the way up the rising ground beyond the garden, towards the clump of trees where the party had first camped. Both Mallow and the girl pursued him with questions; but to only one of them did he give any answer. When Laura insisted on knowing whether her mother had come home yet, he answered shortly, “No, thank God, I sent Garth off to stop her on the road from the village. She’s all right, anyhow.’ But Laura Verney was a lady who could not be indefinitely dragged at the tail of a total stranger, speaking with authority. “I won't go a step further,’ she said firmly, “till you've given me some sort of proots,” He turned on her with passion in his pale face. “Oh, proofs,’ he cried, “I know the sort of proofs you want. The footprints of the remarkable boots. The bloody finger-print carefully compared with the one at Scot- land Yard. The conveniently mislaid match-box and the ashes of the unique to- bacco. Do you suppose I’ve never read any detective stories? Well, I haven't got any proofs of that sort. I havent got any proofs at all, in that sense. If I told you my reasons, you'd think them the most rambling nonsense in the world. You must either do as I tell you and thank me afterwards, or you must let me talk as I like, and as long as I like, and thank your God you've come as far as this towards safety.” Mallow was looking at the poet in his quiet and intense fashion; and aiter a moment's pause he said: “You'd better tell us your own reasons in your own way. I know you generally have pretty good ones, really.” \LE’S eve wandered from the staring face of the girl to that of his friend, and then to the drift of dead leaves under the tree, where he had once rested. was lying there looking up at the rather, the tree tops,’ he said slowly. “I didn’t hear what the others were talking about, because I was listening to the birds and looking”~at them. You know what happens when you go on star- ing at something like that: it turns into a sort of pattern like a wall-paper: and this was a quiet pattern of green and gray and brown. It seemed as’ if the whole world was that pattern; as if God had never made anything but a world of birds; of tree tops hung in space.” Laura made a half protest that sounded like a laugh: but Mallow said, “Go on. ‘And then I became conscious that there was a spot of yellow in the pattern. I slowly realized that it was another bird, and then what sort of bird. Somebody said it must be a yellowhammer: but little as I knew about it, I knew better than that. It was a canary.” The girl, who had turned away, looked back at him with a flash of interest “IT wondered vaguely how a _ canary would get on in the world of brown birds, and how it had got there. I didn’t think of any human being in particular. Only I saw in a sort of vision, somewhere against the morning sky, a window standing open, and the door of a cage standing open. Then I saw that the brown birds were try- ing to kill the vellow one, and that started my thoughts off, as it might anybody's. “Is it alwavs kind to set a_ bird at liberty? What, exactly, is liberty? sky, or First and foremost, surely, it is the of a thing to be itself. yellow bird was free in the cage. It was free to be yellow. It was free to sing, In the forest its feathers would be torn to pieces, and its voice choked foreve 1 began to think that being oneseli, which is liberty, is itself limitation. We power In some ways the 2 are limited by our brains and bodie ind jf we break out we cease to be ourselves. and pet haps to be any thing. That was when I asked you whether an isoscele felt itself in prison, “Then L saw the man on the roc his hands spread like wings to the sky, | knew nothing of him; but I knew on the instant that he was the man who had given a bird its freedom at any risk As we went down the hill, 1 heard a little more about him; how he had escaped by blowing up his prison; and I felt that one fact had filled all his life with a_ philosophy oj emancipation aml escape. Always at the back of his mind, I was certain, was that one bursting moment, when he saw white daylight shining through the shattered wall, I knew why he let birds out of cages, and why he had written a book on the psy- chology of liberty. HEN I stopped outside a window to stare at those gorgeous goldfish, merely because | have a fancy for such things: they color my thoughts, so to speak. And long afterwards, 1 was again passing that window, and what forms I could see scat- tered in the shadow seemed almost gray, and even outlined in lines of gray light, which might have been moonlight, but ] think was the corpse-light of phosphores- cence. They lay scattered at random on the table, and I saw by the faint glimmer that the bowl was broken. rhose fantastic fishes had been to me like the hieroglyphics of a message, which the fiery finger of God had thus written in red- hot gold. But when I looked again, the finger had written another lesson in letters of an awful and ashen silver. And what the new message said was, ‘The man is mad’, “Perhaps you think I am as mad as he, and I have told you that I am at once like him and unlike him. I am like him be- cause I also can go on the wild journeys of such wild minds, and have a sympathy with his love of liberty. I am unlike him because, thank God, 1 can generally find my way home again. The lunatic is he who loses his way and cannot return Now, almost before my eyes, this man had made the stride from liberty to lunacy. “The man who opened the _ bird-cag loved freedom: possibly too much; cer- tainly very much. But the man who broke the glass bowl, merely because he thought it a prison for the fish, when it was their only possible house of life—that man was already outside the world of reason, raging with a desire to be outside everything. In a most literal sense, he was out of his wits. And there was another thing revealed to me by the gray ghost of the fishes. The rise of the insanity had been very rapid and steep. To send the bird into danger was only a disputable kindness, to fling the fish to death was a dance of raving de- struction. What would he do next?” As he spoke he staggered, clutched at the air, and fell all his great length on the grass. At the same moment Mallow was hurled against a tree, and the girl col- lapsed against him, clinging to him in a way which, even in that blinding whirl, was an answer to many of his questionings. It was only when they had picked them- selves up, and pulled themselves together, that they were fully conscious that the valley was still resounding with echoes of one hideous and rending uproar; or that the darkness had just shut down upon 4 blaze that blinded them like red lightning. There rose to the surface of Mallow’s mem- ory only one word for it; the word radiant. Mallow found himself reflecting in a dull fashion that it was lighter than it might have been at that hour, because of 4 friendly flame that was licking itself in a lively fashion a few yards away. Then he saw that it was the smouldering ruin of the blue wooden gate post at which he had gazed that morning, flung all the way through the air like a flaming thunderbolt They had come just far enough from the house to be out of danger. The next moment he caught sight of the faces of his other friends, Galton and Hut- ton, pale in the flame, as they hurried up the road from the remote inn, to which they had retired for the evening. “What was it?” called out Galton. ‘An explosion,” said Hutton hazily. ‘An expansion,’ replied Mallow, and mastered himself with a grim smile By this time more people were running out from remote cottages, and Gal riel Gale turned his face to a small crowd. : “It was only the prison gun,” he said, the signal that a prisoner has escaped.

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vA 6 [he Lasting. (harm of | the Tle AS but.one of the reasons hr er sale “ven by disc TUNG, women in every siyle center © This maybe best understood by view them at ene of the More Than WO Hundred mart Shops 2 . » al featuring them in Cited tates a Canada Frou do not find Mangone Models at the shop you prefer. write for information to Mangone NewYork =—s MELODRAMA Van John Alstyne Weaver’s Story (Continued from page 27) soon he regained that atmosphere of seren- ity, of confident faith in a dream, that I Was so used to now. PPARENTLY their love lived in letters, How he avoided detection, what ar- rangements he had for corresponding with her as continually as he must have done, I didn't know. He kept a_ good-sized cedar chest, padlocked heavily, in one corner of his bedroom. Once, when I called on him, he happened to be out and the cover stood open. 1 can't be blamed if I cast a casual glance inside, can 1? After all, he was my best friend. And I saw no more than that there were a hun- dred or more bulky letters, in those easily recognizable foreign envelopes, addressed in a woman's handwriting and carefully tiled, Those letters it was which kept his dream alive for him. I could tell instantly whenever he had just received one. A par- ticular, quiet radiance glowed from him on those occasions, and he would be more than usually thoughtful. And so time went on, and we went on, and the fourth year ol the new Gyp was well on its way. Then it happened, One night, about three o'clock I woke up suddenly to find Gyp clutching the head of my bedstead, as if he would fall to the floor any moment. His face—well, have you ever seen a man with shell- shock? That's the only thing to which 1 can liken his expression. A bewildered horror. He tried to speak, choked, finally managed to gasp out something I couldn't understand. “What?” I shouted. I caught it the second time. she’s dead!” | jumped up and put my arm about him, dragged him to a chair and sat him down. God knows I never want another night like that! He was dazed, inco- herent. Strange, how these writing fellows seem to lose all hold of themselves in the face of emotion, It was all of an hour before I got any connected story from him. *Fragile—so frail—so delicate,’ he said “She's at last. “George, you saw her. You re- member—she was so exquisite—like a flower.” “Very beautiful, and very frail,’ I answered, \ flower,” he repeated. “Never pick wild flowers, George. Make that your creed—never pick wild flowers!’ He buried his face in his hands. “It was that Cornish coast, I suppose? Storms and harsh weather—” His voice came muffled. “I was afraid —I was so afraid. But she thought she could stand it.” He sprang to his feet. He killed her, George!” “Killed her!” I echoed, in horror and astonishment. “Yes, killed her, killed her just as surely as if he murderea her with his own hands. Stupidity! Idiocy! How can you trans- plant a violet—tear it up, root and all— throw it on a rock and say, “There, you, let's see you live!” “Oh, that was it,’ I said. “Pneumonia. That's what they called it. I call it—brutality. Murder.” He flung himself into a chair again. “How did you find it out?” I asked, presently. “Aunt. She's been our friend. She—she took care of our letters. The attack was very sudden. Two weeks ago to-day. But she hadn't been well for a month or so.” I went over to him and gripped his hands in silence. HE foolish little French clock on my mantel struck four times, in a_ burst of incongruous gaiety. Gyp was aroused by the sound. He released his left hand and drew from his pocket a cablegram. He held it out to me. When I took it, his hand dropped wearily, hopelessly. I unfolded the cable and read: died to-night.” Brief, curt, cataclysmic. But that’s the way life goes. With one careless, brutal blow life shatters the things that made existence bearable. I had a bad time with Gyp. But some- time about daybreak he managed to pull himself somewhat together. I took him back to his rooms. He stumbled along without any apparent purpose. I got him to bed finally. He slept only fitfully, while I kept a dismal watch from an armchair. Watching his quick, convulsive breath- ing, I doubted whether he would awaken refreshed to any degree. If his sleep were dreamless, then it was only an exchange of one kind of emptiness for another. On the other hand, if sleep deceitfully gave him back his Sylvia, how much more crushing would be the anguish of reality. At noontime I went around the corner “Sylvia for a cup ol collee. When I returned, he was up, dressing mechanically. “Go back to bed, Gyp,” I begged shook his head. - “No use, he answered, listlessly, “I’m going for a walk. Alone, George if you don’t mind. Oh, don't worry, void {elloy Pi—I'll fight it through. Im F Trust me.” I let him go. Yes, he would fight it through. For he was strong. But what a iacking struggle it was going to be! [| jound myseit wishing suddenly, with all my heart, that his strength were less, that a breakdown would come—anything to re. lieve, to release. strong, O breakdown came. His body—his will refused to give in. I couldn't help. All those months of his torment | had to look on, as if he were on the other side of impenetrable bars, being tortured before my very eyes. Physically, he recovered quickly But he couldn't write. At least, not satisiac- torily. His humor was forced—there was no heart in it. And his savings were soing. He hadn't been very provident— have you ever seen one of those chaps who was? At that, he was better than most. His stuff became machine-made. Several of his editors remarked upon it—with sym- pathy, of course—and it frightened him. Ihen the old bitterness crept back. Only now it was not brilliant sarcasm and irony it was snarling. He began to drift toward hack work. He had to make caough to live on, of course. But I knew that the descent to obscurity is_heart- breakingly easy. And IL was genuinely alarmed when I saw his name signed to a cheap tale of intrigue. Ihe day I came upon that story was approximately a year after Sylvia's death. Ihe very next evening a taxi drove up to my door, and in came Gyp, lugging the cedar chest which I knew contained her letters. He deposited it in a corner, then turned to me. I reached over to the table and picked up the magazine containing that wretched tale. I looked at him inquiringly, He spoke instantly, and there was a ring in his voice that hadn't been there for months. “I’m through with all that. I'm starting over again. I'm going with The Bulletin. Special writing, you know—human interest stuff. It ll be enough to live on. And itll give me time to write outside.” “Fine!” I said. “What have you in mind?” Novels,’ he answered, and enthusiasm came into his voice. E went into a detailed description of what he had been planning. All he cared about now was work. And _ fame, real fame. He had ability. Hadn't he? Well, he was going to work, work, work Plunge into a maelstrom of endeavor. Anything to—forget. “I must forget. I've got to, or I'll go stark, raving crazy!” he finished. Then he gave a furtive glance at the chest in the corner. “That chest there... Inside it is all that’s ever amounted to anything in my life .. George, I want you to take that chest somewhere, away from here, and burn it. Destroy it, so theres nothing but cinders left. I'd do it mysell —only—only I can't. I tried, but I cant. It would be like burning—her. But I can trust you, I think.” “Now look here, old fellow,” I protested, “do you think anything like that’s neces sary?” “It’s got to be done!” he almost shouted. “Got to be, I tell you. It haunts me— I can’t think—I can’t work. I'm burying all that life, all I ever was. I'm starting all over. Get rid of it.” He turned abruptly and strode out very fast, as if he feared the chest would sud- denly run after him. / I'm sorry I can’t tell you that Gyp im- mediately wrote a series of excellent novels, each better than the preceding. That would be a pretty story. But it would not be true. I read his first. It was done with ex- cellent technique, and there were severa well-handled situations in it. But the theme was not extraordinary—a sort 0! H. G. Wells economic-problem story, with- out Wells’ sure touch. It made no str to speak of—one or two fairly good no- tices, a few lines for the most part. That didn't daunt Gyp much. - “Firsts are never any good,” he said. “I'm learning. That was too hasty—only took me six months.” ITH the second he did better—it was a lengthening out of one of those “Furtive Soul” sketches—a full-length pot (Continued on page 98) HARPER’S BAZAR ‘=? = @2@ wf hh wee me oso "= soo cao

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CRYSTAL SOAP CO, 366 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK © 1921 \ WAPARARALEAEAEEAAAIE EEE Shah of “Persia Van J 0 h n (Continued trait of a carpenter. That sold enough to give him about a thousand in royalties the first year. Some of the old Gyp was in it—but much was lacking. It seemed well, artificial To me, at any rate. It didn’t carry conviction, somehow. One didn’t feel that Gyp had got inside of his carpenter—he had merely recorded obser- vations, and made up a fairly good story for the rest. “Look here, Gyp,”’ I suggested to him, “why don’t you write about things you really know? Your own life.” He stopped me with a quick gesture. “I have no life,’ he said sharply. “It’s buried. It’s forgotten... But,” his voice took a different tone, dismissing the other subject decisively, “Ill hit my stride now. I'm dashing into a real one. It’s a corker. I'm going to take my time, and rewrite it and rewrite it, and go over and over it. I—I’m going to make my name with this one.” Work on it, so that the city editor of The came to me and asked me what trouble with Gyp. He seems to puts in on the paper. hearted scribbling at old chestnut stuff can’t go on, Mr. Scott. I know what a friend of yours he is, and I thought maybe you could influence him. I like him and all that, but he’s got to put more on the ball than he’s putting now, or I can't keep him.’ All of this I repeated to Gyp when I saw him next. He listened impatiently, sullenly said yes, he'd do better, and ex- cused himself almost immediately in order to get home to his beloved novel. Can you believe it when I tell you that during the whole writing of that ill-fated story I saw him only five times? Five times in a year and a half. He dropped completely out of my life—out of almost everything, so absorbed was he in his method of forgetting by continual slaving away. Then one night he called me up, and asked me to come over to his rooms. I was startled at his appearance. He he certainly did—so much Bulletin was the grudge every minute he This thing of half- was gaunt and dejected, plainly over- worked. ‘George,’ he began, directly I entered, I can't understand it. Pomeroy rejected my book.” “What! After taking all your others?” “Turned it down cold,” he said gloomily. “IT can’t understand it. I can’t make it out. The work I’ve put into it—why, you know what I’ve done. Says there’s no life to it.” I did my best to soothe him. Told him not to worry, there were more publishers— that sort of thing. It didn’t do much good. “That damned newspaper grind—it’s getting me. And I’ve counted on this sO The upshot of the matter was that I took the manuscript away with me. _ I knew the faults must be minor ones, I assured him, and probably I could point them out. ] UT I needed only a hasty reading to be convinced that the publisher’s judg- ment was correct. The thing was a failure. It was an attempt at a novel of youth and disillusionment. Wholly faked-up, it im- pressed me as an effort to remember some- thing forgotten almost completely. Arti- ficial from beginning to end. It—it actu- ally bored me. I tossed that wretched result of heaven knows what ceaseless labor on the floor. My mind was made up. Now I would spring my plan upon Gyp. Gyp read my opinion of the book in my face, as I entered his smoking-room the next evening. “No good?” head slowly. “Great God!” he burst out, “it’s got to be! I've put all I have into it! You're wrong—you and Pomeroy, both. I'll show you yet—TU—T'll—” “Gyp!” I made my voice crack like a whip. “Stop that! Sit down.” He looked at me for a second, made a feeble gesture of objection, then dropped into a chair. he shot at me. I shook my “Gyp,” I began, much as I would have talked to a little boy, “I’m your best friend. You know that, don’t you? You know I wouldn't lie to you. And I mean what I say. This thing is no good.” He tried to interrupt. “No,” I cut in on him. ‘Hear me out. I’m going to show you what’s the matter. Now you said a minute ago that you’ve put all you have into the story. But that’s not so, Gyp. And you know it’s not so.” “It is!’ he snapped out. “No, it isn’t, Gyp. You haven’t put yourself, your own self into it. You MELODRAMA Alstyne from HARPER’S BAZAR Weaver’s Story page 96) want to write a great novel, I believe?’ “What's the use of asking that?” he cried. “Haven't I told you it’s all that matters in the world to me?’ “Well, then, listen. There’s only one way to do it. You know that as well as I do. You can't write anything big, 0; fine, or worth while by cooking up plots and characters out of thin air. You've got to write from experience. No, let me go on. It’s from the joy of your own happi- ness, the agony of your own suffering from your own flesh and blood that great literature has to come.” Gyp jumped to his feet. “But CONTINUED, overbearing him. “You've heard it said that everybody has in his own life a masterpiece, if only he could express it. You have a® the tools—all the ability—and one bit of life—” “You want me—no! No!” he shouted, “I want you to set down on paper the story of your love.” I had sprung my plan. I sat back to weather the storm which I knew was imminent. “Never,” he swore. What? Drag out the only beautiful thing in his life, parade it before the gaping crowd? Tarnish his dream for a pack of fools? “Damn you, what do you mean by trying to make me do such a thing?” he shouted. I got up, took my hat and walked to the door. He had stopped, and was glowering at me. Then I delivered my final shot. “Just the same, you think it over. Go the rounds of the publishers. You'll find I'm right. Two weeks from now you come to me. I’ve got some material you'll need.’ “What?” he snapped. “You remember that cedar chest? Well I never burned it.” Before he could grasp the full meaning of what I had said, I slipped through the door and out into the night. I fully expected him to follow me, and demand the instant destruction of the chest and all its contents. I shouldn’t have been surprised if I had made him my enemy then and there. But he didn’t come that night, nor the next. The two weeks I had given him passed. I was _ preparing to admit my failure, and really do away with the letters. But something persuaded me to give him another week. And _ three nights later, sure enough, his _latch-key clicked, and in he burst, in a state of unhealthy excitement. “T’M fired, George. This afternoon. Frank said he’d come to the end of his rope. Been patient, and so on, but what could he do? Too erratic and slovenly, he said. And then, not showing up for a week.” “Where have you been all this time?” I asked. “Making the rounds. Eight separate and distinct publishers. Oh, you were right The book’s a failure. But I'll show ‘em You should have seen Frank’s face. could tell. Down and out, that’s what he thinks. Ha! He'll see.” I could scarcely repress a sudden grin of exultation. But I stifled my satisfac tion and spoke calmly. “All right. You're moving in here to- night. I’ve had a typewriter sent. Its over on the desk. The—the chest is in the back room, under my bed. You can break the padlock, I guess?” “The letters?” he muttered, “No—not those. They’re sacred, George. Don’t you see? Burn them, as I asked you. Do it now, before I start work.” That wouldn’t do at all, I thought. But it was no good arguing. ‘Very well, Gyp. I said. “I'll burn them. But first I want you to read them. Then, I promise, I'll do what you say. Only—’” “Only nothing,’ he cut in. “I'll read them. And I'll burn them myself.” I started to remonstrate, but I saw how futile it would be. Without a word I set out to fetch Gyp’s baggage. I didn’t return until several hours later. I expected to find piles of ashes in the hearth. But the hearth was clean. I went into the back room. Gyp sat upon the floor, surrounded by heaps of the letters. I called to him, but he paid no attention to me. He was in another world altogether, living ove again a love that was gone, steeping him- self in a beauty such as few men have known. I slipped noiselessly to bed. No, he could not burn those letters, nor would he, ever. They were destined to immortality. He wrote that entire marvelous story “ four months. I kept a close watch over him, to see that his health didn’t break. Every afternoon we went for an hours (Continued on page 100

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He was so intent upon the work—I never disturbed him willingly. Once or twice he wavered, and I had to brace him up with reminders of coming fame. H, yes, I neglected my business. But things were dull those days, anyway. All the time I was playing tricks on him tricks that I was sure were for his good. You see, that daily hour of recrea- tion served a double purpose. Every after- noon, as soon as we leit the house, my secretary, a very bright young chap, would steal in and copy in shorthand what Gyp had written. When the first hundred pages were finished, 1 took these duplicates to Pomeroy. “From Gyp?” he inquired, waving me to a seat. He didn’t look too enthusiastic, I'll confess. “Read it.’ I answered. ‘Never mind who wrote it. You won’t be wasting time.” He began, turning over the leaves perfunc- torily. Soon I saw him stop, and his eyes light up. He raced through a pas- sage, then looked up quickly. “By Jove!” he ejaculated. “It is Gyp. But what’s come over him? That poem in there—cracking fine stuff. He didn’t do it, did he?” rose and walked to the door. ‘Never mind. You go ahead and read it. I'll be back in a few minutes.’ I don’t believe he heard me. He was already plunging into his reading. I af- fected great unconcern until I got out on the street, but, once my feet touched the sidewalk, I must have presented an amus- ing appearance. I fairly tore along in my excitement, not caring in the least where I was going. At the end of half an hour I reentered Pomeroy’s den. He jumped up, waving the manuscript. “How much more is there?’’ he shouted. “How long will it take him to finish it? Where is he?” I held up my hand. “Don’t rush me,” I interrupted. “Do you like it?’ “Like it?” He gave me a withering glance. “Like it! Do you know what this is? Well, I'll tell you. If the rest is as good, it will be the best love story I ever got into my hands.” “As good as that?” I put a pleased sur- prise into my voice. “Why, that’s splendid. I'll see if I can get Gyp to let you publish it. He—” Pomeroy made a kind of rush at me. “Don't try to play with me, George,” he cried. “I’m going to have that story. Drop this idiotic bluff. Im having a contract written up now. Twenty per cent. on the gross—you couldn’t ask fairer than that, could you?” I dropped the bluff. “All right, Pome- roy. I don’t know how long he'll be on it, but it’s going fast. Don’t worry about the quality of it. He’s got better stuff than that, even.” Pomeroy launched into detailed praises. Those letters! And those poems, “like Jungfraus shooting up from Alps of prose,” he expressed it. “How is he doing it?” he kept saying. “Tenderness! And reality of emotion—It can’t be Gyp. I can’t understand it.” I SUPPOSE TI understood it. But how could I explain that all of a man, heart and soul, was going down on paper? And most of a woman, too—her love. I simply let him talk on. A stenographer came in soon with the contract. “Make him sign it,’ Pomeroy said, hur- rying me out the door. “Don’t wait; the sooner the better. We'll start setting it up as fast as you get the instalments over to me.” Make him sign it! Easily enough said, but what a task. I was mortally afraid he would back out completely—throw up the whole affair at the sight of a paper so irrevocable. I tested him very gingerly that evening. “By the way, Gyp,” I remarked casu- ally, as he was pounding away on the type- writer, “who do you think ought to publish this?” “Publish it?” he repeated, apparently paying slight attention to me, and con- tinuing his writing. “Oh, I don’t know.” The click of the keys continued for some seconds. Finally he looked up, frowning slightly. “Publish it? Oh, don’t bother me about that mow. Maybe—maybe I won't, ever. It’s—it’s—” He ran his hands through his hair. “All right, Gyp. Don’t think about it,” I said hastily. And he turned back to the work. Just as I thought. A very dangerous situation, was it not? What could I do? A l Sf yne N . ; ’ . Weaver’s Story lrom page 98) For a whole week the problem seemed to have no solution. It came to me at last that there was only one way out. I must betray my friend for his own sake. That story must be saved, whatever the risk. : Immediately I made that decision, | walked into Gyp’s room, and up to his desk. In my hand was the contract. You would never have known what it was, though. No one would. It was carefully folded so that nothing but the dotted line was showing. “Gyp,’ I said, with the air of transact- ing some trivial affair, “you're so busy that you can’t half attend to things. You want to sublet those rooms of yours, don't you?” “Might as well,’ he answered, intent upon an erasure in his script. “I'll attend to all that,’ I went on “Now I've had a paper prepared making me your authorized agent—sort of power of attorney, you know. Would you mind dropping that scribbling long enough to sign it?” He looked up with a smile. “Why, of course. Anything you say goes, George, You're the business man around here, Where is it?” I held the paper out for him, and he signed. He had no curiosity about it why should he have? I was his best friend, and he was mine. He trusted me. I took the contract, together with the second fifty pages of the story, up to Pomeroy’s apartment. Don’t think I was altogether triumphant; some insistent voice deep inside my brain kept telling me that I had played Gyp a scurvy trick. But it had to be done, no matter what the method. As for Pomeroy, he had no doubts at all. The book would be a masterpiece; he congratulated me and himself on securing it for the world, AXP from that time on I carried the instalments over, once a week. Pome- roy was setting them up as fast as they came in. Of course, there were changes. But they were not radical, for Gyp showed no inclination to rewrite or recast—all he cared for was to get through with it as quickly as possible. The secretary and | did the correcting on the proofs. A day came when Gyp stood before me with a wan smile. ‘Finished,’ he pro- nounced, dully. ‘I’m about finished, too. He wavered, and crumpled into a chair, completely out. I brought him to with several stiff shots of brandy. I put him to bed. He was asleep before his head touched the pillow. And for a week he dozed most of the time. Whenever he was awake, I read to him—light, frivolous things, or talked to him about a trip to the shore we would make as soon as he was stronger. Never once did I mention the story. The day after he was able to be up and about the house, I got word from Pome- roy that the plates were complete, and the printing was about to begin. He wanted me to come down and consult with him on some matter of colors for the cover. I was apprehensive about leaving Gyp alone. The secretary had gone on his vacation as soon as the story was com- plete. Gyp himself was rather restless something was troubling him, I could see that. He was pacing slowly up and down, staring out the window. “What’s the matter, Gyp?” I asked. He turned away from the window, and for a moment said nothing. Then he smiled apologetically. “Not a thing, George. I was just think- ing how fine it’s going to be to get down to the shore. Can’t we leave to-morrow? I’m pretty strong. This city—cramping, you know.” I felt distinctly relieved. He was be- ginning to be restless. That was excellent. For a moment I had feared he was brood- ing about the book. “Great!” I said. “You really feel you can stand the trip?” “Absolutely.” “That settles it, then,” I said, putting on my hat. “I’m off to get the tickets. You lie down and try to catch a nap. I wont be gone more than an hour.” “Don’t worry about me,” he called, as I went out the door. “I’ve got plenty to attend to.” I didn’t think much about that remark until just as I was going up in the elevator at Pomeroy’s. Then I caught a_ hidden significance. ‘“‘Plenty to attend to.” Now, why should he have said that? Could he be meaning— I got off at the next floor, and took the first elevator down. I wasted five minutes trying to locate a taxi. The nearer (Continued on page 102)

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Send for Booklet ‘‘GLOVE LEATHERS”’ It tells about Glove Leathers—How to Know Them—How to Care for Them and tells why HYDE Cape is entitled to be known as “The Glove Leather with a Caress.” Write to WOOD & HYDECOMPANY, Gloversville, N.Y. Makers of HYDE-Cape Glove Leather HARPER’S BAZAR MELODRAMA John Van Alstyne Weaver’s Story (Continued from page came to the house, the sharper grew my suspicion. So that I was completely pre- pared for the sight that met my eyes when I burst into the room. YP was sitting on the edge of his bed, smiling. Not defiant, not triumphant, just confident. In a great heap, piled on the floor at his feet, was his manuscript, torn and retorn into flakes no larger than confetti. How long I stood in the doorway and stared at him I don’t know. I couldn't budge; I couldn’t open my mouth. He sat motionless, smiling steadily. The silence became intolerable. At last I managed to blurt out, idiotically, “So you—so you tore it up?” His voice was firm as he answered me. “I’m sorry, George. I know it’s a dis- appointment. I had to.” I tried desperately to say something, but no words came. He went on, “I had to keep faith with her. With myself, too. After all, fame doesn’t matter so much. Not compared with integrity. . .. Don't feel badly, George. A fool has to go his own way. You're my friend. You under- stand.” Yes, I understood. So completely that | I would have given everything I possessed in the world to undo what I had done. For now I saw that I was going to lose the friendship of the one person I really cared for. I made a great effort, and steeled my- self. “Gyp,”’ I forced out, “I have some- thing to confess.” He stiffened. The smile vanished. I could hardly go on. “Try to forgive me. doing the right thing. Gyp leaped to his What? What?” “We had it copied. While you were writing it. It’s on the presses now.” Gyp stood paralyzed. Then he threw himself at me. He seized my shoulders, tore at me with his fingers. I thought I was Pomeroy—” feet. ‘Pomeroy! “Damn you to hell! You get down there and stop it! Now! Right now!” I bowed my head. “It’s too late, Gyp. He'll never give it up. The contract—” “Contract? There’s no contract—” “You signed it, Gyp. I lied to you. You thought it was that power of attorney.” Gyp flung himself back from me. He stared at me with loathing. “You did that! You—you Judas!” E suddenly turned and Cashed for the door, hatless as he was. His running figure flashed by the window before I could collect my wits sufficiently to follow. As I reached the corner, I saw him leap into a taxi. I found him pleading with Pomeroy. “It’s all I have in the world, Pomeroy. If you've any mercy, if you've any decency, give it back to me, for God’s sake!” But Pomeroy could not be shaken. “Gyp, I simply can’t. Why, the first edition is nearly done. I’ve had my sales- men out with the proofs for the last five days. Every bookseller in town knows about it. If I back down now, it would finish me.” The veins stood out on Gyp’s forehead. “What can I do for you? What can I give you?” he cried. Pomeroy clasped and unclasped his hands in genuine distress. owe it to the world—lI owe it to you to go through with it. I can’t help myself, Gyp. A contract’s a contract.” Gyp was convulsed with fury. tract! That dirty piece of trickery!” Pomeroy set his lips. “It's your name on it. You signed it.” Gyp grew white as paper. final answer?” “Con- “That’s your Pomeroy nodded and turned away. “Some day you'll thank me, too,” he mumbled. I tried to approach Gyp. He lifted his arm deliberately and struck me in the face with all his force. I stood there, making no motion of defense. It was all so futile, so crushingly futile. Gyp turned with a strangled sob, stumbled out the door. He never came back to my rooms, even for his hat. He disappeared completely. Nobody knew where he had gone, or what he was doing. A month later “The Dream Incarnate” was the talk not only of the town, but of the country as well. It was an overnight success. Oh, I don’t mean to say it be- came an immediate best-seller, but the | critical chorus was unanimous in its favor. | | I think I can quote you fairly accu- rately a typical appreciation from one of the most conservative journals, at that. Out of two full pages of remarks I recall such phrases as these: “. . . exquisite revelation of a woman’s love. . . . match- 100) less mosaic of prose and letters. , seven or eight lyrics that shine like preci- ous stones set in flawless gold.” They went it rather strongly, didn’t they? But that book deserved all the praise it got— you'll agree with me if you remember it, as I have no doubt you do. T caught on with the public very quickly There have been many books which had a greater sale, that I'll freely admit: but considering its high literary merit, it did extraordinarily well. And so a year went by, and fame had definitely come to Gyp, a fame that the years have not diminished. I understand Pomeroy is reprinting a small edition this year. But still Gyp stayed in hiding, One day my telephone rang. Pomeroy was at the other end. “Gyp was here a ragged and_ looking Asked for his royalties. When I gave him the check, he wanted to know what [| would give him outright for the entire rights. I told him and he said, ‘make out the check for that, too.’ He leit without another word.” “Where is he?” I shouted. “I was just coming to that. Ten min- utes later the bank called me up for an O. K. Then a bit afterwards the president of the bank called again. He said Gyp went away with the entire thirty thousand in thousand dollar bills. They sent a de- tective after him.” I flung the receiver into the hook and concentrated on figuring out where Gyp could be going. I paced up and down the office. Then the phone rang. It was Pomeroy again. “The detective says Gyp bought a ticket for somewhere in Canada. Better see if you can’t stop him.” while ago. Filthy, like death itself, Canada? That could mean only one thing. I reached the station just in time to see Gyp climb aboard. It was impos- sible to get a berth, and I had a frightful time bribing the conductor, so that he would leave my destination a matter of hazard. but it really wasn’t a_ hazard, you know. I was confident that Gyp was bound for our old camping place. That was a ghastly trip for me. I sat up all night in the smoking-car. I didn’t dare go into the dining-car, for fear Gyp might see me. It was no use to approach him now. I must wait until a more favor- able opportunity. Meanwhile, it was im- perative that I keep my eye on him. CONSULTED the Pullman conductor. I described Gyp minutely, and secured the location of his berth. Sometime about ten o'clock the next morning, I made my way stealthily to Gyp’s car. Standing in the vestibule, I beckoned the porter. Five dollars made him my grinning ally. “Yes, suh,” he said, “I knows him, all right. Other passengers, dey knows him, too.” “What do you mean?” I asked. “Well, suh, he ain’t just right. Sets there and jabbers all the time. Not loud —just sorter—‘um-um-um’—thataway.” “Does he say anything you can under- stand?” “Said somep’n ’at sounded like ‘thutty pieces silver,’ when I was goin’ by a little while ago.” I gave the porter five dollars more. “He’s all right, porter. He’s a friend of mine. You take good care of him. Don't say a word about me. Just keep your eye on him, watch him all the time. And mind you, don’t let the other people bother him.’ Late that afternoon the train stopped at the familiar station. I jumped from the back platform, as we stopped, and hid in the shanty. I watched Gyp bargain for a horse and start out. After a sufficient interval I followed him. : It was dark when I reached the ruins of our old bunk-house. No sign of Gyp. Then I heard his horse whinny, and knew he could not be far off. I made tor the pool in the stream, where I had come upon my friend and that girl, so many years before. If I had not known my way by heart, I should have had a sorry time of it. Only infrequent shafts of moonlight, shooting through clefts in the vast warp and wool of foliage everhead, spotted the path for me. Twice I blundered headlong into 4 trunk of some huge tree. The wind scarcely rustled the leaves; a silence that seemed to stifle hung over the forest. breathed more easily when I saw the clearing ahead of me, open in the full flood of the moonlight. I crept to the bank, and softly parted the willows. HERE he was, on the other side, kneel- ing in the grass. His haggard face was lifted toward the stars. His lips were (Concluded on page 114) i: eS + 436 RSI3 fa ers =—

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S BEAUTY: F secrets of beauty there is but one, and a simple one at that: Make your skin work. A bit of color deftly distributed, a touch of the lip stick, a well-placed pencil stroke, just to set off a point of attraction by all means, for every little helps. But—make your skin work. Do not allow it to stagnate under an overlay of paint or heavy creams bought in- discriminately. If it has become sluggish from any cause, as the skin is apt to become, coax it to greater activity. When inactive it becomes greasy, flabby, infirm. It sags. The pores clog up. Then they expand. Blackheads form or pimples. The skin of others, again, may dry and fall into wrinkles. It will be pallid and pasty. But if the pores are kept in continued healthy action, the sweetness of facial beauty will never abandon you. The almost uncannily unfailing means by which you can accomplish this is: Valaze Beautifying Skinfood, which many years ago was confided to my hands by that Russian Specialist, Dr. Lykuski. It is in constant use by women wherever beauty of skin counts for something. It will keep your skin at work mildly, imperceptibly, natu- rally. It will infuse freshness, animation and vigor into the skin itself, keeping away lines, discoloration, spots, harshness, sallowness and weather-beaten appearance. And that is why it is not merely a beautifier, not merely a skinfood, but a Beautifying Skinfood. This distinction is well worth re- membering. Price: $1.25, $2.50 & $7.00. Valaze Beauty Grains is another of my exclusive specialties and worth its weight in gold for the manner in which it maintains the skin in a state of activity, stimulation and healthful beauty. Owing to the war I have been without it for a long time and succeeded only lately in importing my first shipment, How Beauty Grains have been missed by my clients and, to be frank about it, by myself, who am never without it for my personal use! They are used for washing instead of soap, and are truly sensational in their skin-enlivening effect. They refine the skin and guard it against coarseness and oiliness of the pores, blackheads and other impurities. Not women alone, but also men and children enjoy better skin-health by the use of Valaze Beauty Grains. Price: $1.25, $2.50 & $5.50. If your skin happens to incline to dryness, a little Valaze Cleansing & Massage Cream should be applied after the Beauty Grains, for its emollient effect. $1.00, $1.75 & $3.50. Valaze Skin-toning Lotion completes the trio of what the average skin requires to ensure its beauty for years to come and to guard it against defects and complexion troubles that are frequently due only to lack of ordi- nary foresight. Valaze Skin-toning Lotion soothes, refreshes, braces and revivifies the skin; prevents and aids in suppressing lines and flabbiness. Price: $1.25, $2.50 & $5.50. In case of dryness of the skin I recommend the Skin-toning Lotion Special: $2.25, $4.50 & up. **The Gateway to Beauty Land” is the picturesque phrase which one of my appreciative clients applies to my salons, here and abroad, where my exclusive treatments are administered to those whose skin requires expert and more painstaking care than can be obtained by self-treatment at home. Many of the world’s famous women come to me periodically to be treated either for the prevention or for the removal of various facial defects, be it more or less heavy wrinkles, crows-feet, or double chin, discoloration, disfiguring results of acne, coarseness of skin texture or pores, or flabbiness and general deterioration of the skin. As an interesting innovation an entire department has been devoted to special short beauty sittings for particular occasions, such as dinner or theatre parties. The young girl, the matron or the woman of more advanced years, each receives individualized beauty care, unobtainable anywhere else in the world. Whatever European or American science, or the most experienced and oldest of all, the far Orient, has contributed to beauty lore for women, all that is daily practiced in my establish- ments. If you have not yet visited any of them, an important page in the book of feminine experience still remains to be read by you. When ordering goods kindly include 4 cents on each dollar and pro rata, war tax. Interesting literature will be forwarded on request, as well as advice on every problem of woman’s beauty. Mme. Helena Rubinstein of Paris and London 46 WEST 57th STREET, NEW YORK Atlantic City, N. J., 1011 Boardwalk; New Orleans, Mrs. C. V. Butler, 8017 Zimple St.; Boston, Mass., E. T. Slattery Co.; Chicago, Ill., Mlle. Lola Beekman, 30 Michigan Ave.; San Francisco, Miss Ida Martin, 177 Post Street and Grant Ave.; Dayton, O., Elinor’s HARPER’S BAZAR FREDDIE THE FIFTH Holworthy (Continued declaration, “Go ahead and talk to him,’ he said deliberately. ER father proceeded- not to defend Freddie, but to explain him. ‘He isn't to be blamed for what he can't help,” said. “He's a good, clean, likable boy, and it isn’t Ais fault that he’s got money and doesn’t want to work, is it?” “But his father ought to have made him work,” insisted Jean. ‘He ought to have made him be useiul.” “Oh, yes,” said Mr. Merrick, indulgent- ly, “his father could have made him take a team of mules out to some grading camp, or sweat at a desk eight hours a day to he learn something about steel construction, but I'll warrant his father never thought of it. You see, Jean, his father had either too much money, or else not nearly enough. If he'd had a tenth as much, Freddie couldn’t live on the income, and if he’d had ten times more, the heirs would have had to be trained as the heirs to a throne are trained, so as to keep the fortune to- gether. But Freddie wasn’t intended to work for a living; so he wasn’t brought up to take his father’s place. His father probably knew he couldn't fill it.” “His father could have set him up in business, though, couldn't he?” “What!” said Mr. Merrick, smiling. “A boy with a paltry two million dollars to split lances in these days with the best warriors—and the best guerrilla fighters in the business world? Why, they'd have unhorsed him in the first round.” His smile widened. ‘Freddie’s simply illustrat- ing one phase of what we call progress and education.” His daughter gasped. “Dad! You're net going to say that people were better off with ox-carts instead of automobiles, and—spinning-wheels and tallow-dips and puncheon floors, are you?” “Oh, no, indeed,’ said Mr. Merrick, cheerfully. “The world can't stand still, but if it’s got to proceed, why, then we've got to have a certain ratio of Freddie Westcotts. He's simply a product of the ages, Jean; maybe he’s a bit of flotsam to warn us that our own civilization might choke itself to death by ultra-refinement and ultra-education.” “Oh, Dad! Who'd ever believe that!” “Exactly. By the way, Rome had a few prophets, and so did Athens, and probably they howled loud and howled long. Still, Athens fell, and so did Rome, and I fancy the gods looked down and snickered at both of them. And still each generation thinks it’s the only wise generation the Lord ever let live Well, this isn’t de- ciding Freddie’s future for him. What would you say to my taking him into the office?” EAN was both startled and dubious. “In your own office? When he hasn't had any experience at all?” y, yes, but wouldn't it be sort of demoralizing to the other people to have him around, when they know he doesn’t have to work, and he’s just doing it for instance?” “Wouldn’t it be the same anywhere else? You have to remember that he’s in a rather awkward position for a prince.” “Of course,’ she said reflectively, “it would do him a lot of good to be near you, and know you better.” Mr. Merrick stopped smiling. “My dear, Freddie Westcott isn’t any intellec- tual giant, but he’s a mighty nice boy, and if youll just judge him by what he is, I think you'll find him worth your trust and affection. If you want to judge him by what you think he ought to be, I'll see if I can make a business man out of him. And [ll fail.” “What's that?” “Tll fail,’ he repeated, “but Freddie won't. If Freddie’s decided he’s going to marry you, why I’m rather betting on Freddie. He may be a bit of flotsam now, but I’ve met his father.” On the following evening she told Fred- die what was in pickle for him, and Freddie winced imperceptibly, and squared his shoulders. In the space of a single instant he meas- ured Jean against the bulk of the universe, against the hunting crowd, and the polo crowd, against leisure and the open coun- try and his own swee’ will, and he knew that he prized her above it all. “It’s heap big medicine,’ said Freddie blithely, “but you’re the doctor, Jean. So if your paternal parent isn’t too busy with his Five-Foot Shelf to see me, why don’t I go in and bicker it out with him, and get it all settled up to-night? And find out what kind of a tin pail I have to carry my lunch in, and all that sort of thing.” Hall’s Story from page 45) She was understanding him a little bet- ter, but even so, she wanted his resolution to appear more rugged. “Don’t joke too much about it, Freddie it’s serious. ? Freddie the Fifth managed to the corners of his mouth, “Why, Jean,” he said, “I’m going to shut my eyes, and take my medicine, and lick the spoon, but right this minute -just to look at it from my side, for once—] ask you, don’t you see how it’s sort of hard for a man in my position to go jn and strike your father for a job at, say, pull down twenty dollars a week to start—and keep his face straight?” Suddenly his voice altered, and he stooped down to her. “If you think I’m just being funny though,” he said, “I'll tell you this: every time I smile at you, it’s because I wish ] could kiss you.” And fled. “Ths a very creditable thing you're do- ing,’ said Mr. Merrick, “and ] ap- preciate it fully. But it won't be easy for you, and I want you to understand jyst what you’re getting yourself into. Do you realize that you’ have to live up to the same conditions as everybody else? No special concessions—regular office hours?” “Yes,” said Freddie, blotting his fore. head with a silk handkerchief. “Yes, sir L do.” ; “And, if you come, you'll stay a reason- able length of time? Between ourselves, Freddie, you'll be rather a marked man, so it wouldn't be very good for the office morale to have you work for just a few weeks, and then drop by the wayside.” Freddie experienced the sensation of a condemned prisoner. “I’ve sort of half- promised Jean I'd take six months off, and try it. I mean, six months on,” “And now about salary. JI—— “Oh, that’s quite immaterial,” said Freddie, waving his hand. “I wouldn't earn it, anyway.” Mr. Merrick laughed. “I wouldn't go so far as to say that, Freddie. Even an employer has his self-respect. I'd expect to pay you exactly what you're worth.’ “In that case, maybe I'll owe you money,” said Freddie, and then they both laughed. ‘the upshot of the interview, however, was that on a certain Monday morning in April, Freddie Westcott, tailored within an inch of his life, emerged from his im- ported runabout, and presented himself at the offices of Merrick and Company. His arrival created no immediate sensation, be- cause at first he was mistaken for a cus- tomer, but by the time he sat down be- hind a veneered mahogany desk to learn the elements of the investment banking business, his identity was a matter of com- mon gossip, and Freddie had become the object of general scrutiny and _ general wonder. He was acutely self-conscious, and he had reason to be; he knew that his fashionable friends uptown were laughing at him; he knew that the office staff was suspicious of him; he knew that Mr. Mer- rick hadn’t hired him for his potential value as an employee. He consoled him- self by recalling what Jean Merrick had said to him last night; she had said that she was proud of him for his intentions, and that it remained only for him to make her proud of him for his accomplishments. Indeed, he was already rather proud of himself for being here at all. At the end of the first day, however, the staff had succeeded in convincing him that he was a blockhead, so that much of the rosiness had faded out of his perspec tive. A man can think only of those thing which he has learned to think about; ad Freddie’s brain, so long unused to compl cated problems, had simply closed up like a rubber bag and refused to let the ted nical information trickle through. OW, it was wholly natural for Jea® Merrick to dream that her cavalier, regardless of his twenty-eight years energetic idleness, would become, at the word of her command, a keen and resource ful citizen. It was wholly natural for ber to assume that if she told Freddie to ahead and be useful, he would, if he cat enough about her, do just exactly that, and do it with grace and dispatch. Her father, however, disillusioned her as diplo- matically as he could. > “You mustn’t lose sight of the fact, he said, “that Freddie’s been educated dows, and not up. He’s a rich man’s son, a nobody ever made him study. Figurative ly speaking, the first day he came into ™ office was the first day he ever spent is real school. And then, besides that, * (Continued on page 106)

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AD.170 0. tom to 10] OF N every age, that of Cleopatra, of the Medici or of Milady of 1921, the art of correct dressing has conformed to certain approved standards. GAGE HATS have for sixty-five years so beauti- fully and so accurately interpreted these standards as to warrant the general belief that ‘hey have been a determining force in creating style. On application we will mai! to you Our Dookiet Ol ‘ o, BP PRODUCERS 7 OF CORRECT MILLINERY EV ASR) AUDA! G2)'S'o HARPER’S BAZAR FREDDIE THE FIFTH (Continued from page 104) habits are more or less settled, and he’s trying to do something he loathes. He's buckling down to it like a Trojan; but don’t be disappointed if he isn’t a genius right off the bat.” He knew that he wasn’t a genius, but he hated to admit that he couldn't learn the lessons which came so easily to his supe- riors. He struggled with statistics and with the jargon of the Street until his brain felt cramped and numb, and once or twice he went home in utter despair. and sat gazing into a mirror, to ask himself how he could possibly endure the torture which Jean Merrick had put upon him. The nar- row quarters stifled him; the personalities of the staff were irritating to him; the whole atmosphere of the office dragged at his nerves. And yet he refused to be dampened in his resolution. ROM her father, Jean knew infinitely more than Freddie would tell her. She was immensely pleased and flattered by his voluntary selection, but there were mo- ments when she wondered if he could sur- vive. “I can’t ask you to sacrifice too much,” she said to him, soberly. “If it’s too great a strain on you, I want you to give it up. Possibly I’m not worth it to you. And it must be hard for you; it must be abom- inably hard. Only don’t you see, Freddie, I wanted you to do this for six months to prove you could, and if you don’t go through with it, after all you said to me ” “Go through with it?” he repeated. “Why, certainly Ill go through with it. I had both eyes open; I knew perfectly well what I was doing, and there’s some darned thing inside of me that won't let me quit.” This, if he had only known it, was the richest gift of his ancestor, Frederick the First. The polo season began at Meadowbrook, but Freddie Westcott wasn’t in his familiar place at “three” on the Blues. Instead, he was sweltering in a room which gathered and held the reflected heat of Broad Street; he was spurring his lethargic brain and now and then—but oh! so seldom—find- ing it a trifle less unruly, a trifle more amiable to discipline. His evenings were still tolerable, because he spent the greater number of them with Jean, but he looked with dismay at the calendar, and prepared himself against the day of her departure for the seacoast. N the evening before she left, she tried to hearten him; she saw that he was miserable in confinement and irked by de- tails, but she still argued that the ordeal was essential for him. “But the biggest test,’ she said, “is coming this summer, Freddie. When I’m gone. If you can get through that, then I'll believe you can do anything for me.” Some of the blitheness had been ironed out of him, but now that his emotions had all been sifted, and concentrated upon Jean, he was more direct, and less embar- rassed, in his conversation. “Has it made any difference to speak of, so far?” “It’s made a lot of difference, Freddie.” “Even when I’m making such a mess of it?” “But you’re trying the best you can, aren’t you?” “Hm!” said Freddie. “Do you think I’m getting to be any more like what you wanted?” As a matter of fact, his character had changed less than her opinion of him. She had always liked him, and now she was unearthing for him a definite respect which had to do with his devotion, and his dem- onstration of it. If she had known the actual extent of his sacrifice, she would have worshipped him. “Every single day,’ she said. “Every single day.” Freddie caught his breath. “Bring on your good old summertime, then,” he said valiantly. “J don’t care.” H's friends trooped out to the fashion- able playgrounds, and his nights were now as lonely as his days. He used to sit in the front window of his club, where he was envied by countless passers-by, and sitting there, he dreamed not of the green turf at Westbury, nor the wide waters of the sea, but of Jean Merrick, and the life which she wanted him to live. There was a certain perversive satisfaction in goading himself to unpleasant things because she asked him to; there was a certain spiritual exaltation in playing the game according to the rules; but sometimes he was terri- fied by the thought that even if he com- pleted his six months’ period of probation, and received his reward, Jean might de- mand of him a lifetime of this same sort of “usefulness.” He knew himself well enough to know that he would attempt it, and break down. He knew that he couldn't crush his own nature forever ACH week-end he hurried off to Lon + Island, and there, in his old joyous = vironment, out-of-doors and on horseback. he should have been royally happy, but even this respite was denied him.’ H couldn't meet his friends on the old ba s because whenever he compared the girls with Jean, and the men with Mr, Merrick, he wondered how he could ever have held his old acquaintances as precious, And yet, after each week-end, it was increas. ingly difficult to leave the sunshine and green turf of the open country, and to re- turn to that drowsy cubicle which he hated By degrees, he had come to regard Mr Merrick in almost the same light that Jean regarded him. He had come to think that Mr. Merrick, in character and dispo- sition, was worthy of all the boundless faith which Jean had put in him. It Was largely for this reason, then, that a cer. tain revelation which came upon him jn July struck him with tenfold violence. He said blankly to one of the bond salesmen: ‘That is—all the big corpora- tions are putting out short-time notes just now because they know the situation’s g0- ing to change pretty soon, and money’ll be cheaper, so when the notes mature they can borrow what they need then at lower interest rates?” “That’s it exactly.” Freddie rubbed his forehead. “And when they think the interest rates are go- ing up, then they hustle out long-term bonds, so they’ll have the use of money over a long period at a low rate?” “You've said it.” Freddie sat back aghast. “Why, then, strictly as a matter of fact, when we un- derwrite a new issue we're always selling the public just what it ought not to buy, aren't we? I mean, when we offer one kind of thing, that’s exactly the time for the public to buy the other kind!” His instructor laughed at him, “My dear man, we never go into any under- writing that isn’t as sound as a nut. The public gets its interest and its principal back, too—what more does it want?” “I know, but you say in three years we'll be down to a five per cent. basis in- stead of seven. So if a man buys short- time notes, and gets his money back in three years, when if he goes to reinvest it he'll only get five per cent.—why he'd be a darned sight better off if he didn’t buy these new notes from us at all! He ought to go right down to the Stock Exchange and buy one of the old issues of long-term seven per cent. bonds now, and keep on getting seven per cent. indefinitely, hadn't he?” He sat back thunderstruck. “Good “But, my dear fellow, all we do is to take the securities issued by the different corporations, and sell ’em. And we never touch a new issue that isn’t perfectly all right.” “Yes, for the corporations,” said Fred- die. “And every time we sell a client something, we know he’ll get his interest and his principal back, but we know hed make more money in the long run if he bought exactly the opposite type of what we're trying to sell him.” E was curiously disturbed and he told himself that it was a queer business. Of course, there was nothing dishonest about it; you couldn’t blame the corpora- tions for acting in accordance with their own best interests, and you couldn't really blame the underwriters, who were in the position of retail merchants and had to sell what was available for selling. But it seemed to Freddie that this was a very upside-down sort of business, in which the only new securities you ever had to offer the public were those which were sale and legitimate enough, but which you certainly wouldn’t buy for yourself, because you knew that fundamentally they were the wrong kind to buy at that particular time. And somehow he wondered how Mr. Mer- rick could have spent three decades in tt, and still preserved that character and dis position which: made him idolized by his daughter. cod Other revelations began to come to him; one of them was the certainty that a spe ulator always loses his money, if he plays the market long enough. Again, he 3 sured himself that Merrick and Company, when they acted merely as brokers, werent responsible for what their clients order them to do: they simply executed the or ders and took their commission; but aga! he was puzzled to understand how a ma? could stay in a business like this, and val tain his ideals and his courage. his He tried to persuade himself that y own stupidity clouded his vision; that on (Continued on page 108)

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HE quality of weave and fabric that goes into the making ot WHITTALL RUGS is worthy of their exquisite designs and beautiful colorings. And it is this quality, insisted upon by America’s foremost rug maker, which ensures your enjoy- ment of a Whittall Rug in all its Oriental beauty for years and years of enduring service. Send for beautifully illustrated catalogue, “Oriental Art in Whittall Rugs.” Sent free M. J. WHITTALL ASSOCIATES 180 Brussels Street Worcester, Mass. WHITTALL Keele his unfamiliarity with business made these things appear remarkable to him; but in his heart he was convinced that as a but- terfly he should always have more seli- respect than as a business man. This con- viction helped him not at all in his effort to become a financier. Indeed, from the instant that he acquired it, his stamina was threatened, and the last atom of am- bition went out of him. O his daughter Mr. Merrick wrote that Freddie was plugging doggedly away, but without the first token of promise. ‘You'll have to judge him,” he wrote, “by | his sincerity. You can’t possibly judge |him by his progress. He doesn’t like the |}work and he isn't in sympathy with it; but he’s doing his level best to make good for you. Between ourselves, I'd say that if he keeps his nose to the grindstone until his six months are up, he'll have accom- plished a miracle for himself and you. And if he doesn’t—why, you won't be half as bitterly disappointed as I'll be.” In August, when he was given a two weeks’ vacation, he made straight for Cape Cod, where Jean was staying; and at sight of him, she was startled, for he had lost appreciably more of his blitheness and vigor, and he had lost some of his fine color. His face was a trifle leaner, and his jaw more solidly in evidence, but in his eyes there was an expression which she couldn’t readily interpret. “You Aave changed,” she “You've changed a lot.” “Improved?” he suggested. The separation had helped his cause, and his appearance helped it still further “Ves, Freddie. You're not at all the same as you used to be.” “Has it done any good, though?” | “It’s done this much good—my whole faith in human nature used to be built around Dad. You've made me think of you in almost the same way now. If either of you ever failed me, I don’t think I could stand it. Is that worth working for, Freddie?” said abruptly. “I've made an awful fizzle of it, though,” he said, dejectedly. “I’ve worked hard enough, but I can’t get the stuff throug th my silly head.” “That isn’t it; you've done your best. And you're going to keep on doing your best until October, aren't you?” “T was won- if I pulled up REDDIE scowled a littie. dering what you'd say What?” “You see,’ he went on, haltingly, “if a horse starts out in a six-furlong race, and goes lame at the quarter, nobody expects him to limp in on three legs. Well, I've showed I was willing to try, haven’t I? And I’m a joke; I know it, and your father knows it, and everybody in the of- fice knows it.” He shook his head. “I don’t like business and I never could. What’s the use of my cluttering up the place until a certain date? Of course, I can, but—well, the truth of the matter is, Jean, when I went into this thing I'd for- gotten all about the endurance test for the Mounted Service Cup. You ride three hundred miles in five days; from Fort Ethan Allen, Vermont, to Camp Devens— it’s to show what sort of horses make the best cavalry mounts. All sorts of people go into it, civilians and everybody; and you see, when I talked about staying through October I’d forgotten I promised Colonel Hitchcock I'd ride one of his Ara- bians this year—and I'll need a week or two at least to get in training. And that means I ought to get started the last week in September.” Her gaze flattened him. you'd stop—now?” He gestured in deprecation. “You thought “Not now, but the last of September. That is, I hoped by this time you'd see it my way. And I thought after I'd explained it to both you and your father “But Freddie—when you promised? Perhaps it looks to you like a little thing, but g I never promised I said I would winter I prom- Hitchcock’s “Wait a second, Jean. to keep on for six months; if I could. And it was last ised I'd ride one of Colonel horses.” “Yes, but couldn't take your place? It someone to put him he get wouldn't out of it entirely if you couldn't ride, would it?” “Why, no—but—I only thought You thought of breaking your promise to me? After I’ve just told you how I’ve grown to trust you, and care for you? And then you speak about this ride as though it were more important than that?” Her voice broke unexpectedly. ‘Don’t you know what a high standard I’ve set for you, Freddie? And so far, you've lived ; up to it so splendidly. Dont’ spoil it. FREDDIE THE FIFTH (Continued from page HARPER’S BAZAR 106) His traits of stubbornness were creeping out, and furthermore, he felt that righteous- ness was on his side. “Jean,” he said heavily, “I’ve worked like a dog for four months. It’s idiotic to pretend I’ve got anywhere, or that it’s done me any good. I’ve done it because | loved and you wouldn't give me an you inswer until after I'd showed you I could try to be useful. Haven't I showed you yet? Haven't I gone far enough so you know whether you want to marry me or not? Is there any earthly use in my making a monkey out of myself any longer? Ii you do want me, please have a little mercy, Jean, and if you dont——” His voice trailed off to nothingness. HE was silent for many seconds. “Did you care so much about that ride?” “Care? After the rotten summer I've had? I'd care about anything under the sun that would get me some outdoors and fresh air again. “You didn't need to have a rotten sum- mer, Freddie.” “IT wanted to. And I’m not going on ride unless you do see it my way Only—couldn’t you just tell me where | stand? And agree with me that there's no sense in making this a farce?” She was twisting a handkerchief in her fingers. “This is all I've ever asked you, Freddie. And it does matter whether you go on to a certain date. It matters like everything. It’s your promise, and if I let you off—oh, Freddie, where would all my confidence have gone to?” that He sat motionless. ‘And you won't give me my answer until October, Jean?” “I can’t, Freddie—I just can't. “Then I'll write and explain to Colonel Hitchcock to-night,” he said, quietly. The fortnight which had once been his horizon was now under his feet, but a flimsy barrier had suddenly grown up to shut him off from Jean. For two weeks this barrier, flimsy as it was, existed between them: either of them could have demolished it in a twinkling, but instead, they adopted the worst conceivable policy and never men- tioned it again. When Freddie went back to town he understood that in October- depending entirely upon the intermediate circumstances—he might speak to her fa- ther in accordance with old-fashioned prin- ciples. It was long before October, however, when Mr. Merrick sent for Freddie and asked him all about the endurance ride. Mr Merrick had heard about it from Jean, and naturally, since anything which concerned Jean concerned her father, he was curious to know what Freddie’s reactions were. “It isn’t that I think it’s awfully logi- cal,” said Freddie, “or even that I think it’s fair. I don’t. And I promised Colonel Hitchcock I'd ride, and then I forgot to speak to either of you about it. But my sticking out the six months here seems to mean a lot to Jean. She was a good deal cut up because I even mentioned it to her. Well, that’s all there is to it; I’m staying. And I don’t want you to think I’m sulking about it, either, because I’m not. Only if she’s got any idea that I could ever amount to anything in business, I’m afraid she'll have to be disappointed.” ME: ME RRICK tapped reflectively on his desk “Freddie, what do you honestly think about the investment bank- ing business?” Freddie averted his eyes. better not tell you.” “I'd rather you would, though. Or sup- pose I put it in another way; if you had to earn your own living, and you knew you could make a fortune in this office, would you come in here?’ Freddie shook his head. “I’d rather be a farm-hand than that. And be outdoors.” “But the roof isn’t your sole objection, is it?” Freddie looked up at him. “Well, if you’ve got to have it—it seems to me that about nine-tenths of a// kinds of business is cramming down people’s throats some- thing they don’t need. And to do that, you've got to do things that—/J don't want to do. Oh, I suppose they’re all right enough, but I’d rather be poor—and work outdoors.” Mr. Merrick continued to drum on his desk. ‘Freddie, what would you say if told you I wouldn’t consent to your marry- ing Jean until you’d rounded out a full year in the office?” Freddie shuddered. “Why, I—I’d stay, he said. “It would be awful, and I wouldn’t call it quite fair, Mr. Merrick— but I'd stay. Yes, I would.” “But suppose I said I v ouldn’t guaran- tee my consent even then? That you'd simply have to take a chance, and my deci sion would rest on your actual progress? Freddie wet his lips. “I—I—There (Concluded on page 110) “Maybe Id

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Illustrations will be sent upon request NEW YORK 512 FIFTH AVENUE PARIS 2 RUE DE CASTIGLIONE HARPER’S BAZAR FREDDIE THE FIFTH (Concluded from page 108) wouldn’t be much chance of getting away with it.” “Frankly, there wouldn’t be. But you'd take the chance?” Freddie swallowed hard. “Yes, sir. I'd take the chance. “When you despise the work so much?” “Yes, sir. . P “When all our methods are so distaste- ful to you?” “Yes, om.” “When you think all business is more or less equivocal?” “Ves, sir.” “Even when you spoke to Jean about the idiocy of even six months of it, and about hoping to get off for your long ride?” “Well, I talked logic,” said Freddie in- dignantly. “But I haven’t quit, have 1?” Mr. Merrick stood up. ‘Freddie,’ he said, “I don’t want a man like you around my office. I can't afford to have you here. If I'd known you better, I wouldn’t have let you come in here in the first place.’ He put his hand on Freddie’s shoulder. “Young man,” he said, “I dis- charge you. 1 discharge you, and I'm proud of you. Oh, I know‘*you promised Jean to stay six months, but your promise can’t hold good if I discharge you, can it? You've proved all I ever hoped you would and more, too. I’m going to write a letter of explanation to Jean, and I want | you to take it to Seaward on the night | her | Arabian?” train—will you? It’s just to tell her that you ve failed in business—and succeeded in everything else—and I'd rather like to have you in the family.’ WHEN Jean had read her father’s letter she had tears in her eyes, and when Freddie saw those tears he forgot that it was incorrect to be emotional. Before he had time to think of etiquette he had swept into his arms, and before Jean had time to consider the philosophy of the sit- uation, she had been kissed so often that she was beyond philosophy. He didn’t formally propose to her again, and she didn’t formally accept him, but regardless of this defect in the conventionalities, they understood very thoroughly that they were engaged. Even after she had sent him off to Fort Ethan Allen, however, she was still vaguely troubled, and apprehensive. She was still oppressed by the reflection that Freddie Westcott occupied no place of honor in the active world. She was still class-conscious, and afraid of the effect of financial inde- pendence and indolence upon a young man who was only twenty-eight; but just as Freddie had once been willing to meet whatever conditions she imposed upon him, so she was willing, now, to yield in turn. Her father’s letter had removed her inhibi- tions, and cleared her judgment, and she discovered that she loved Freddie enough to marry him on his own terms. Still, she was troubled. On the second day of the endurance test, Freddie Westcott, riding over the brow of a gentle grade, came abruptly upon a pano- rama which thrilled him by its extent and beauty. It was a fertile valley, lying be- tween two ranges of green hills; and in this valley there were tumbling meadows, and a sleepy river; there were broad level fields and patches of woodland, and far ahead of him, there was a white mansion nestling among great oaks and elms. Deep in the intervale there was a cluster of great barns and stables; there was also an exercise ring and a half-mile track; and he could see, here and there in the distance, many horses —a good hundred head—grazing, or gal- loping free. It was a horses’ paradise and that meant that it snatched at Freddie’s imagination, and held him intent. An old man driving a buckboard came up beside him, and paused companionably to inspect Freddie and his mount and cav- alry equipment. ‘Well, sir,” he said. riders to Camp Devens, Nice horse you've got there. “You one of them Massachusetts? Pure-bred “Ves,” said Freddie, absently. “I won- der if you could tell me whose place that | is over there?” | in this part of the state. | Eureka Stock Farm now. “Ought to,” said the old man, chuck- ling. “Seen it every day for seventy-two year. That’s the old Westcott farm.” “Westcott?” “Yes, sir. First farm was ever settled They call it the Was the Fred- erick Westcott place.” “Hm,” said Freddie, rousing “Frederick Westcott, did you say?” “Yes, sir. The old Frederick Westcott farm.” He reined in a little closer. “You look considerable like a Westcott yourself. himself, | Yes, sir, I used to see Frederick Westcott | —grandson of the man that settled this of the country—when I was a boy. he had a boy that went off to college got too toney to be any earthly use, - and he settled down New York way some- wheres, and he was a lawyer.” *REDDIE, surveying for the first time the home oi his ancestors, and the cradle of his own freedom, was moved to sentiments which, a few months ayo, he pwould have scorned to acknowledve and of a sudden he received an_ inspiration which dazzled him by its very brilliance “Is it for sale?” ‘ The old man chuckled again. to be. For sale at a price, everything in- cluded. Stock, lock and barrel, Owner’s gettin’ pretty old.’ “Who's the owner, do you know?” “Ought to,” said the old man. “Seein’s I'm him.” Freddie looked down at him. “That so? What's the price you're asking?” ; “Askin’? Hundred and seventy-five thousand. If you mean what do I expect to git, that’s different.” Freddie straightened in his saddle, and gazed again at the lovely valley and the receding hills. “Would you give me an option for thirty days at a real figure? Im Freddie—that is, I’m Frederick West- cott, the Fifth. This must have been my grandfather's.” “I thought you might be a Westcott,” said the old man, imperturbably. “We're sort of kind of cousins, then. I must have married your grandpa’s wife’s oldest sister. Why, I tell you how it is.” He squinted critically at Freddie’s mount. ‘I’m one of the founders of the Arabian Horse Club. Yes, sir, you can have an option for thirty days at a hundred and fifty, a third cash, But say, 1 wish’d you'd win this ride to Camp Devens, Massachusetts, on_ that Arabian. Good likely critter. Where'd you get him, anyhow?” “He belongs to Colonel Hitchcock, of Long Island.’ “Thought so,” said the old man, in a tone of relief. ‘Then 1 bred him myself right down there in those medders.” “Really?— Wait a second and I'll give you my card, and—” “Shucks!” said the old man, gathering up his reins. “Don’t you bother none about cards; your face is card enough, Your horse’s rested; you better poke along south. You just drop a line to the Eureka Stock Farms when you want to talk busi- ness, if you want to talk business. And say—put some toe calks on him to-night. I know these roads.” “Ought E carried to Jean a check for six hundred dollars, a blue ribbon, the Mounted Service Cup and the Arabian Horse Club medal. “Here,” he said, “this is what I got out of it. And I got something else, too. An idea.”’ Briefly, he described to her that happy valley among the green hills. “What I thought was this,’ he said. “I can't stand business, and you can’t stand society, and we're both crazy about the country. Well, we could live up there from April to October. Have a stock farm. I’ve always thought I’d like that. I was thinking about it last spring when you wanted me to go into business; but, of course, that isn't business. And we'd make cavalry tests all the year round, instead of just going into this endurance thing. And there’s a fine big herd of Holsteins, and, if you wanted to, we could ship Grade-A milk down to the East Side charity milk stations, or something. And there’s a thousand acres where we could keep range cattle, and send beef to my hospital ie “Whose hospital?” she demanded. Freddie blushed. “Oh, I’ve always been sort of half-way interested in a place for smashed-up kids. . . . Of course, that sort of life might bore you blue, and I don't suppose you'd call it exactly useful, but then I thought the rest of the year we might live in New York, and ’s “Useful!” said Jean. “Useful! Oh, my dear, my dear!’ And ran to him, and put her arms around his neck and drew his face down to hers. OW, if the ancestors of Freddie West- cott were, by any chance, gazing down upon him then, they presently turned their attention to each other, and Frederick the Fourth nodded and looked inquiringly at Frederick the Third, and he shrugged his shoulders and looked inquiringly at Fred- erick the Second, who shook his head and glanced at Frederick the First. And the uneducated pioneer, the father of them all, nodded most vigorously and gave them a smile of benediction. “Ves, yes,” he said, softly. “It may have been worth the cost, and it may be that we're only fortunate; but if we all had it to do over again, bearing in mind the good of the race and of our children, wou we each do it just a little bit differently— or wouldn’t we? And which of us woul be the first to give less to his son?’

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ona ™ wre Doe tt Werte & ee es for FEBRUARY 1921 ! | BeauTy is good fortune be- | queathed by kindly ! fate and is woman’s most precious posses- sion. Protect it. Use only Freemans || FACE POWDER { | | i \ | | | } | Pure, wholesome, W o | | delightful. | | | All tints at all toilet counters | | 50c plus 2c war tax. Minia- | }} ture box mailed for 4c plus | Perfume Company Dept. 119, Cincinnati, Ohio | |} lc war tax The Freeman | } is B, Why Have Freckles? —when they are so easily removed? Try the follow- ing treatment: Apply a small portion of Still- man’s Freckle Cream when re- tiring. Do not rub in, but ap- ply lig thtly. Wash off in the morning with a good soap Continue using the cream until the freckles entirely disappear. Start tonight—after two or three applications you will see results. After years of research special- ists have created this delight- ful, harmless cream which leaves the skin without a blem- ish. If your druggist hasn’t it, write us direct. 50c per jar. At Drug Stores everywhere. Money refunded if not Satis- factory. Write for booklet— “Wouldst Thou Be Fair?” for helpful beauty hints. STILLMAN CREAM COMPANY Dept. 9 _ Aurora, Illinois 111 SRL,_ ACE ood Shoes are an Economy A smart pump in Brown and Black Suede with Louis XV heel and hand turned sole—of Hanan Quality throughout. | HANAN €& SON || New York Cleveland Milwaukee Boston Chicago San Francisco Philadelphia Pittsburgh Paris Buffalo St. Louis London ip! | DeMirack ij OMmManNS Hair Free Underarms ee your costume be DeMiracle is the most clean- athletic togs or evening ly, because there is no mussy gown, the underarms should mixture to apply or wash ~ be smooth. By actual test You simply wet ~ hair wit 3 itar genuine DeMiracle is the safest this nice DeMiracle sanitary hai liquid and it is gone. De- and surest way to remove hair. Miracle alone devitalizes hair, which is the only common- sense way to remove it from face, neck, arms, underarms or limbs. Try DeMiracle just once, and if you are not convinced that it is the perfect hair remover return it to us with the De- Miracle guarantee and we will refund your money. Write for free book. Three sizes: 60c, $1.00, $2.00 At all toilet counters, or direct from us, in plain wrapper, on receipt of 63c, $1.04, or $2.08, which includes War Tax VeMiracke Dept. W-14, Park Ave. and 129th St., New York City When you use DeMiracle you are not experimenting with a new and untried depilatory, because it has been in use for over 20 years, and is the only depilatory that has been endorsed by Physicians, Surgeons, Dermatologists, Medical Journals and Promi- nent Magazines. pA fb» Youthful Loveliness is a matter of complexion. No face, no matter how perfect its features, is beautiful if it is marred by wrinkles and other blemishes Madame Hudson Persian Velvet Skin Food should be applied at the first indica- tion of small wrinkles around the eyes and mouth. If taken in time these can be easily and quickly eradicated. a. ~. ‘“ TA Persian Krystal Mask produces a soft velvety texture that is the chief charm of a youthful com- plexion, Clears the face of black- | heads and other blemishes and reduces large pores. No rubbing necessary. Soft brush for applying is furnished. Velvet Skin Food 63c Krystal Mask $2.23 aR! > a at all leading stores, or direct from us in plain wrapper. HUDSON LABORATORIES Auburn me ee Permanent Hair Waving Fluid Waves that last for six days Moisten the hair with EVERWAVE. Use fin- gers or small brush Wind on wavers (preferably Garrity’s Silk Hair Wavers, because they are s0 soft and cannot break the hair). Allow the hair to remain ‘done-up’ over night, or for the usual time, then unwind from wavers, brush lightly and see the wondrously beautiful waves, ready for any style coiffure you desire! and you needn’t wave your hair again for a week! Reautiful glossy hair and alluring waves that wiil last for days and days! Just what you have been wishing for. In a test, a single hair Saeen with EVERWAVE, curled phen a pencil, was hung near an open window, yet the curl stayed in the hair for more than six Send coupon be- low for samples. Garrity’s Silk Hair Wavers, Hair Binders, Egwite Shampoo, Gray Hair Concealer. L. M. Garrity & Co., Inc, 31 Bedford Street, Boston, Mass. Tbh L. M. Garrity & Co., In 31 Bedford St., Bos roo Mass. Send me sample bottle of EYVERWAVE and one Silk Hair Waver, also booklet entitled, ‘‘Hair Secrets.’’ I enclose 14 cents. PD. icin ntncsdccan ess cee cots vesenses ees Street and Number......-.-cseceeeveeeeres City and State.......ccccsecececeseveves o

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Y. y HARPER’S BAZAR FROM NEW YORK TO BAR HARBOR Isabel Anderson’s Article (Continued from page 25) There had been two thunder-storms during the day, and every kind o1 a wind, then no wind at all, and it was thought that the rain had made the sails too heavy. There were many conjectures, but we con- soled ourselves by acknowledging that, not- withstanding the accident, the Resolute had shown she was the iaster. So the first racing day ended, and we were obliged to leave on Roxcna for Boston. Seven races in all took place, most of them with little wind, and our hopes went up and down. The newspapers had it that burton was to be dismissed, that there was coniusion in the management of the Shamrock—but he wasn't. At last the suspense came to an end, everybody praised Adams, and the Resolute won, much to our delight, HAT ports do you visit on a house- boat? Any that you desire, from Key West to Halifax, but in the summer months nothing is more delightful than to cruise leisurely from New York northward, say to Bar Harbor. With this plan in view, we steamed out into the Sound, past the Battery, past Execution Light, Great Captain’s Island, Stamford and _ Bridge- port, to New London, where for many Junes we have moored Roxana during the Harvard-Yale races. Our captain's log is punctuated annually by entries such as these: “Saw the Harvard-Yale race. Har- vard won by one and one-half length,” and ‘Took the Harvard Freshman Crew for a sail,’ or “Yale won the four-oared race,” though perhaps more often is_ inscribed “Harvard won the ‘Varsity again.’ This year the ‘Varsity crew came _ aboard Roxana for a rest just before the race; they got into their shells from her and won when they weren't expecting to, so again we were happy. Narragan-ett bay is perfect for yachting one can have a drive on shore, or a picnic, or a fish dinner. Often a tennis tournament beguiles one at Newport, or a game of polo at the Pier, or some of the “war games” at the Naval College or Tor- pedo Station. Newport harbor is especial- ly interesting, for it is usually full of men- of-war. Reluctantly one sails away, pass- ing Jamestown and Fall River with its factories, taking a look in at Bristol with its old houses, and then cruising along on the way to Providence, Sometimes, if we wish for fishing, we stop at Block Island, a barren and wind- swept place with majestic clifis to the south, and farther inland, multitudes of little fresh-water ponds shining in the deep hollows. It reminds one somewhat of Nan- tucket, being more or less bare of contour, with its big ramshackle hotel, splendid beach, and one main street lined with soda fountains and shops selling salt-water taffy, gum, postcards and peanuts. Munch- ing, sunburned trippers from Providence, shod in sneakers, swarm arm in arm about the post-office and wait for the daily steamer. We wandered down to the little basin with its heavy stonework that re- minded us of the wee harbor at Penzance in Cornwall, England, from which the set- ting of the opera was taken. This place, too, might well be the home of pirates, but instead it is the abode of peaceful fishermen, and the harbor was lined with queer fishing boats. They all had the mast with its observation box and the peculiar bowsprit rig for harpooning swordfish. As each boat sailed in, people gathered to inquire the catch. Bonitos seemed to be about; one boat brought in a few hundred, while another had some tuna. I caught no tuna, alas! but a number of bonitos, which proved to be delicious. With these we consoled ourselves, as we cruised along the little canal which had been cut through out of what once had been only a pond, and now makes a harbor on the west coast and a perfect little anchorage for yachts. OMETIMES, after leaving Block Island, we skip around to Vineyard Haven, to New Bedford, or into Buzzard’s Bay, a pleasant place to linger, dotted with its summer houses whose red-tiled roofs gleam out among the trees, or to Onset with its hundreds of little houses, its spiritualistic “Ivceum”’ and its fervid camp meetings. Here we can take a motor and visit the many pretty settlements on the Cape among the pines and the bayberry bushes, and find quaint towns of “ancient and fish- like odor,” and travel to the very tipmost end, where Provincetown has its artists’ colony and its little playhouse. Back we go to join Roxana and slip slowly through the ribbonlike straight canal, along the level low cut, with the curious bascule bridge lifting its sections high in the air, looking for all the world in the distance like the antenne of a huge insect. Coming out at the other end, one may look at Plymouth to see where the Pii- grims landed to find “diverse cornieilds & little running brooks,” and establish their “plantacion, One may go on to Paragon Park, with its “Cave of the Winds” and “Hilarity Hall” and swings and roller coasters and crowds, and then, for another contrast, to Nahant, which is peopled with the smart set of Boston. Still steering northward we come to Marblehead, with perhaps one of the most beautiful little harbors along the coast. It is like fairyland at night, its basin circled with twinkling lights, while searchlights swing across the sky and music drifts out across the water from the hotels. As | write, a number of launches surround ys with couples having a summer vacation. There are house-boats and schooners and hundreds of little racing crafts, some with the new Marconi rigging. ‘Then there are rowboats filled with small boys wearing life preservers, who look in at all the portholes out of sheer deviltry. In August the yacht clubs were full of sports—the Eastern, the Corinthian, and the Boston. There was much betting about the Quincy Cat and the Nahant Bugs and the Marblehead Brutal Beasts. The courses were laid out, the boats gathered and circled, and the gun went off. A number of the racing boats crossed the line all together, then another class followed, and so on, until it became a really beautiful sight with all the snowy wings gliding over the water like a swarm of lunar moths. When they made a turn around a rock, they looked like butterflies hovering about a lump of sugar. It was even more beau- tiful than a fleet of friendly airships that I saw hovering over Epernay during the war. A thunder-storm came up the first day of racing, and the sails then appeared even whiter against the black and purple clouds. 1 murmured, ‘Plucky little fel- lows,” and wondered if they would all reach port safely as we scuttled in our- selves to moor Roxana in a safe harbor. ORTHWARD again we steamed, stop- ping next at Beverly and motoring to Salem nearby, once the seat of the old East India trade, where the Essex Insti- tute still preserves relics of it in the form of teakwood and bronzes and carved ivory, and where, farther back in the town’s his- tory, witches were hanged. One may still see the sheriff's writ of execution. On the North Shore are handsome houses to visit and lovely beguiling gardens. Per- haps we may stop at the Essex Club for a game of golf, or drop ashore elsewhere for a flower festival, a horse show, or an open air masque. Gloucester comes next, its fine harbor crammed with fishing boats, and since Roxana is small enough, we steam through the canal, past Coffins Beach and on to Portsmouth with its lighthouses and forts and big naval prison. Here is where the Russo-Japanese peace treaty was signed, and from here you can run out in aa hour to the Isles of Shoals, where the poet, Celia Thaxter, spent the greater part of her life. Her father, a highly educated man, deeply resentful of certain political situations in Portsmouth, left there and became lighthouse keeper on this island. With Appledore and Smithy Nose, two other bare and barren places as_ nearest neighbors, the iamily lived as recluses, but serene and happy in their isolation, as Celia Thaxter’s poetry shows. We sail toward evening’s lonely star, That trembles in the tender blue; One single cloud, a dusky bar, Burnt with dull carmine through and through, Slow smouldering in the summer sky, Lies low along the fading west. How sweet to watch its splendors die, Wave-cradled thus and wind-caressed N utter contrast is York Harbor, gay with hotel and cottage life, and Bid- deford Pool, quite as gay, if not quite as fashionable. All along the coast of Maine are lovely rivers that one cannot resist sailing up. Finally we reached Portland in the late afternoon, to be immediately beset by smail boats bringing out the evening papers and asking for orders tor provisions. Casco Bay has many wooded islands with tiny hen-coop cottages. Sail- boats and launches and canoes border them, with a sprinkling of girls and boys splashing in the cold water, and here and there parties are having a jubilant clam- bake. At the beginning of the war, on one of these islands we saw a powerful search-light, and a mound that covered a great gun for guarding the entrance. But (Concluded on page 114)

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fo r FEBRUARY 1921 How thoroughly does Harper’s Bazar really serve your You are perhaps satisfied with its authoritative fashions. You may be entertained by its fiction. You doubtless enjoy its special articles. But if you do not make use of its six ser- vice departments, your Bazar is not serving you the way it should. Here are six editorial departments, very much at your command. Won't you take advantage of them ? ND MD Jot down their ceddress and tuck it away in your ng desk— Har per’s Ba 19 West 40th Street, York SHOPPING SERVICE. Jane Jarvis, Director. All of your shopping will be at- tended to personally. You need never have a shopping problem. Miss Jarvis is in con- stant touch with the New York stores and knows everything they are doing. Just write to her and she will solve your prob- lems for you. 5 FASHIONS. Perhaps you find your ward- robe is a bit difficult—a gown you would like to remodel, or a new silhouette to be adapted to your own particular style,— whatever your question it will be answered gladly by the Fashion Editor. 3 DOGS. Anything with a bark and a pedi- gree Frank Dole can get you. Any breed, any age, any time or any place. "Just let him know the path your desires along the canine line seem to follow. And aren’t dogs the most delightful of Gifts? 5 INTERIOR DECORATING AND AN- TIQUES. Have you a difficult corner in your homer Perhaps you cannot find just the right thing for it,—or perhaps you are interested in antiques? Ann Duncan can give you expert help in both these matters. 3 SCHOOLS. Kenneth N. Chambers, our School Director, is always ready to give you personal advice as to any school you may be interested in. He has visited the representative schools in thirty states and will be very glad to help you make your selection. X85 BOOKS. Do you like to read? And wish you knew someone to select in advance the books that will interest you? Let the Book Editor know the type of literature you are interested in and he will make up for you a list of the very best there is to be had.

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BENGAL-ORIENTAL ' W oven entirely in one piece. Very deep mulberry background; man apes cna gold colorings produce an cneuied mapa wos Send for color plates and nearest dealer's name. [rhi ndividudsism- LU) La Celelem@iliantial re Imagine a golden stream of morning sunlight pouring into a room containing this dainty breakfast set. Windsor chairs, drop-leaf table and console harmon ze to perfection. Obtainable either in antique finish or sea foam green; hand deco- rations with both styles. At all first class furniture shops Fp New Ye NOUPY is showing chemise blouses {. of silver tissue elaborately embroid- ered with beads and silk. One of these is lavishly decorated with purple beads, one of silver is beaded with green and one of green and silver tissue is beaded with green and black and embroidered with green and black silk. A new bag of brown faille is topped with carved sandal-wood and ornamented on each side with a brown tilk tassel falling from a carved cube of wood. A new fan with shell sticks is made of cock’s feathers dyed rose. A similar fan with imitation jade sticks is made of green cock’s feathers. Filet lace chemise blouses are smart, transparent at the shoulders and rendered more opaque across the lower part by en- tredeux of fine muslin in white or colors. This idea is employed also for entire frocks. Crépe de Chine blouses in pastel shades are trimmed effectively with stitching in silk of the same or some harmonizing shade. The stitching is applied to the lower part of the chemise blouse, to the sleeves and, lightly, about the neck. Smart hats for the South have crowns of straw or felt and brims of crépe de Chine of the same shade. These are smart in beige, black or bright green. Square crowns appear in some of the new models, and some brims are turned up flatly in the back or on one side. A smart little tricorne of classic shape NOTES FROM HARPER’S B PARIS trimmed with a cocarde is worn with a jacket ‘“amazone’—which is a ther closely fitted coat seamed across at the top of the hips—the attached coat-skirt {a]] AZA c . ling in rather shallow godets on the sides The skirt beneath is straight and narrow. It is rumored that we are to see again skirts which are wide in effect at the hips and narrow at the hem, and there are ry- mors of a new model which falls straight from the shoulders and is girdled above the knees with a wide draped sash knotted on the side. Oddly youthful, this, if true. The girdle at the normal waistline is stil! smart, although during the last few days we have heard again of the girdle or crosswise seam at the top of the hips. Odette makes a smart little jacket of chamois duvetyn, with great pockets of straw tulle embroidered with flowers and conventional borders of bright-colored che- nille cord. The accompanying hat has a crown of chamois duvetyn and a close, rolled-up brim of straw tulle embroidered with chenille. An Odette gilet-blouse of black crépe marocain is embroidered all over with a sort of twig design—Chinese inspiratiou— and little Chinese mandarins in bright cos- tumes, with little decorative designs in color thrown in. The girdle of crépe is drawn through a casing, emerging on each side front and tying smartly in the middle. The sleeves are long and straight. MELODRAMA (Continued from page moving. I caught the name “Sylvia.” A small fire was crackling in front of him. I saw him pull from his pocket a roll of bills. He held it up, his hands stretched outward, and cried: “Sylvia! It’s nothing. But it’s the most I can do!” Then, into the blaze, one by one, he fed the pieces of currency. The last bill flared, and shriveled to ash. He bowed his head, and I heard a terrible thing, a sound that was half a moan, half a sob. Then he rose to his feet in a kind of daze, waded across, and passed within a dozen feet of me. I followed a safe dis- tance behind. was trying to formulate some plan. How could I approach him? In my ears kept ringing one word, over and over and over—‘ Judas!” He wasn’t going in the direction of his horse. He was zigzagging down a path that was new to me. I began to be alarmed. Unless I acted quickly he might easily give me the slip, vanish into the depths of those trackless woods. Where was his goal, in any event? For what misery and squalor was he setting out? To ruin, certainly, unless I could stop him. He had made all the atonement pos- sible, in every way that he knew. But he was. through—beaten. He would never write again, anything. And he didn’t care. 102) That I could plainly see. Not to live, or to die, even. Could I save him? But, after all, what could I do? Excessively romantic, con- sistently melodramatic. Once they go down, nothing can help them—that’s the price they pay, those gifted madmen. He had betrayed his dream. Nothing was left. I could see in my mind's eye, as clearly as if it were already happening, his finish booze, and dope, and the d. t.s in some horrible hovel. ND yet-—perhaps I could save him. I would do anything within my power— anything. I would shout, run to him, per- suade him to come back. What if he did look on me as his enemy—a Judas? What if he did curse me? He was still Gyp, the friend I loved best in the world. He was striding down an abandoned log- ging-road. In a moment it might be too late. I shouted. He threw a quick glance over his shoul- der, and started running. I ran after him. He left the road, and began to dodge in and out among the trees. Still was gaining. I put all my strength into my efforts. He was scarcely a hundred yards away from me—Then the moon went under a cloud and lost him. FROM NEW YORK TO BAR HARBOR (Concluded from page 112) all that is over now, and darkness settles about us, to the shouts of the young bathers and the deepening of the lights. The next morning north again we steam, past Boothbay with its charming little harbor and simple inexpensive houses, past Wiscasset with its turtlelike island, a light- house perched on its shell, into Rockland with its big hotel with old ladies sitting in rows on the piazza. This is the country of the pointed firs, and the rocky coast re- minds one a little of Norway. Islands punctuate the horizon, some lifting like snowy fingers their beacons. Steaming over to fashionable Dark Harbor, quite lovely with the Camden Hills in the distance, we make a call or two and set sail again, headed for Bar Harbor, one of the most beautiful places on the coast, cruising through Fox Island, Thoroughfare, past Swan’s Island, and others, farther out to sea, lonely and shrouded in mist. Roxana slows up for the fog is thick, a sailor stands at the bow to sound, and all eyes strain to see a lighthouse or a stake to mark the channel, while ears are alert for fog horns or bell buoys, when sud- denly the sailor calls out to the captain, “Four feet of water, sir, rocks ahead!” The captain rings the gong in the pilot house for the engineer below. Roxana barks and shakes as if by an earthquake, while white breakers appear and a huge black rock looms up out of the fog. A sharp turn of the wheel, and we slip by safely and take a long breath of relief to find ourselves gliding past one of the small islands, into Bar Harbor itself, with its high wooded mountains reaching down into the sea, and as Roxana drops her anchor there at last, we think, “What really can be more heavenly during a hot summer than a cruise up the coast?”

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for FEBRUARY 1921 PORTRAITS ERNESTO BEGNI DEL PIATTA Mrs. Walter Lewisohn of New York, known for her classic beauty. General Mario G. Meno- cal, president of Cuba. Basil Soldatenkow, former Russian Embassy attaché. Andres de Segurola, basso of the Metropolitan Opera. Betty Brown, previously with the Ziegfeld Follies. ROM lawyer and writer to sculptor, and that in less than two years, is the remarkable achievement of an Italian lawyer, Ernesto Begni del Piatta, whose ini- tial work was undertaken about two years ago to point an argument with a frierd. Without training, with only his native fine judgment, dis- crimination and deftness of hand, he has produced such vigorous and telling likenesses in bronze that or- ders have overwhelmed him. He has several books to his credit and a play about New York society. allahan of ty, L. 7, 4055 IRENE FABER. | of the Greenwich Village F , welcomes the Spring in this $130 JOSECK Suit of Navy Kwalitine ( RK ONITLAT TT: DeSSCS Vict hespeak te sublle Charm of refinement. . > ye a 6 XPVCSSING lhe posilive Character of cuslom lailoring a Kalured hyve Tustve ¢ Shops. Identified hv the Sahel ) NEW YORK PARIS mmm, 40 EAST 30 STREET 2-5)

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HARPER’S BAZAR eo For the HOME BUILDE 7

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race Rots ee >SBOSTON® “DULUTH e : . ¥ ¢ &@ SPRINGFIELD ie ens ae . : ALBANY* © ® P . St HARTFORD , re ee Ss ee ae =* Fete BRIDGEPORT « ABERDEEN: oo apn See ee. Sonn OW Pan Oenamten a ep” SMINNERPOUS”.. p ; Ys, snoontenese : WATERTOWN % “F READING Scamotn : 4 4 : SPHILADELPHIA® @ o- . SDS : 4 ? © ATLANTIC CiTY® = SIOUX City *a%5 , Ss eC BALTIMOREe 7: % a DES. MOINES - ts =. WASHINGTON ®, “7, & Fe Os o DAVENPORT» =e 7 m. Sena gs f 2S a os * + #* : —- 4 Ba . ; xy INDIANAPOLIS 0 gi 3. AES IY cag: naan Pa a Mede® Sk Bl _ TERRE HAUTE’ &** i OAK EAN DO: amen cs Be “r . —_ = : : (SANFRANCIS - s -* SATLANTA aa “3 LOS ANGELES? = Se 2p * : Poiy ) . é . —— - ne - > ed , 5% : ta SMEMPHIS: ~ HOMA @).<" j pe peal a : SLITTLE ROCK, e : 2 isis 5 BIRMINGHAM. = . SAVANNANS Concentrated Co-operation

BUSINESS & INDUSTRY Crane Service on plumbing, heating and sanitary equip- ment is available anywhere through the trade, and in addition it is concentrated for the benefit of builders, We are manufacturers of about architects and contractors at Crane branches and show- re See ene Sen rooms in sixty-two principal cities throughout the pipe fittings and steam specialties, made of brass, iron, ferrosteel, country. cast steel and forged steel, in all 4 sizes, for all pressures and all pur- Note the Crane branch nearest you. It will pay you poses, and are distributors of pipe, well to visit it and profit by the complete and distinc- heating and plumbing materials. tive kind of co-operation it offers when you require plumbing and heating equipment for a building of any size or character. THERE IS A NEARBY CRANE BRANCH TO GIVE YOU CRANE SERVICE BOSTON SYRACUSE CINCINNATI FARGO SPRINGFIELD BUFFALO INDIANAPOLIS WATERTOWN BRIDGEPORT SAVANNAH DETROIT ABERDEEN HARTFORD ATLANTA s CHICAGO GREAT FALLS ROCHESTER KNOXVILLE NEW YORK BIRMINGHAM SSNKOSH SPOKANE P ANE HARLEM MEMPHIS 836 S. MICHIGAN AVE. CHICAGO GRAND RAPIDS SEATTLE BROOKLYN LITTLE DAVENPORT TACOMA ALBANY MUSKOGEE VALVES- PIPE FITTINGS- SANITARY FIXTURES es moines PORTLAND PHILADELPHIA TULSA OMAHA POCATELLO READING OKLAHOMA CITY CRANE EXHIBIT ROOMS SIOUX CITY SALT LAKE CITY NEWARK WICHITA 23 W. 44™ ot ST. PAUL OGDEN CAMDEN ST. LOUIS ™= ST. and 22 W. 45™ ST. 1105-1107 BOARD WALK MINNEAPOLIS SACRAMENTO BALTIMORE KANSAS CITY NEW YORK cITY ai : ATLANTIC CITY, N.J. WINONA OAKLAND WASHINGTON TERRE HAUTE To which the Public is cordially invited DULUTH SAN FRANCISCO Wor«s:—CHICAGO; BRIDGEPORT: BIRMINGHAM LOS ANGELES CRANS SXTONe hs RE SSN Te, CRANE i MONTREAL (HEAD OFFICE AND WORKS); TORONTO, VANCOUVER, WINNIPEG, 301 BRANNAN 8T.. SAN FRANCISCO. CAL. LIMITED {| SYDNEY, N. S.W., QUEBEC, HALIFAX, OTTAWA, REGINA, CALGARY CRANE-BENNETT LTD. 36 AVE. DE L'OPERA, PARIS, FRANCE 45-51 LEMAN ST., LONDON, ENGLAND

THe CAREY PRINTING CO. Ince New YORK

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onto

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TOUCH OF TOMORROW IN Alt COLE DOES TODAY co ee boas Sporteoupe? 1\ iN I MODEL,OF MECHANICAL EFFICIENCY THE FASHION-PLATE AMONG MOTOR CARS COLE MOTOR CAR COMPANY, INDIANAPOLIS, U.S.A. Creators of chai 71 Ca YWotor Cars

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rrr * tA tia 40 ees ee | #86 |S 6.0.8) Ba - Lome Have a beautiful skin Follow these simple directions You must give Nature the aid she needs in keeping the skin pores active. This means washing your face and washing it thoroughly, regularly, every day. Cold cream alone won’t do - you mustn't depend upon it entirely for cleanliness. It catches dust and helps fill up the tiny pores instead of cleansing them. You needn’t be afraid of the effect of soap on .the skin—not if your soap is right. Use Palmolive and make washing a daily beauty treatment. Palmolive is the mildest of soaps and the Palm and Olive oils ingredients of Palmolive—were ancient gentlest of cleansers. Egyptian cosmetics. Cleopatra used them as beautifiers as well as cleansers. Use your two hands This mild, gentle soap produces a profuse creamy lather which you should apply to your face with your two hands. Massage it softly into your skin, so as not to roughen its delicate, sensitive texture. Then just as gently rinse it away. It carries with it all dangerous, clogging accumulations - the dust and oil secretions, the remains of the day’s rouge and powder. It leaves your skin healthfully, thoroughly clean. Keep that school-girl complexion + . PALMOLIVE Conyright 1920—The Palmolive Company ( A fine and fresh complexion The gentle washing and rinsing stimulates minute glands and capillaries to beneficial action. This keeps your complexion fine and fresh and encourages natural, becoming color. Be liberal with Palmolive Cold Cream if your skin is dry. Apply it before washing and again after, and your skin will be beautifully smooth. Why Palmolive isn’t 50 cents a cake If made in small quantity it would be. We can’t make it better. The gigantic demand for Palmolive keeps the price moderate. It keeps the Palmolive factories working day and night, which reduces manufacturing cost. It permits the purchase of the costly oils, imported from overseas, in such vast volume that the price is much reduced. Thus Palmolive is popular priced——no more than ordinary toilet soaps. It is for sale by leading dealers everywhere and supplied in guest-room size by America’s popular hotels. THE PALMOLIVE COMPANY Milwaukee, U. S. A. THE PALMOLIVE COMPANY OF CANADA, LIMITED Toronto, Ontario

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