Harper's Bazaar 1920-04: Vol 55 Iss 4

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Haas Brothers DSileivon Bxascm beloees Lay Ha 10: (ual in street and sports wear shades. The emphasis on quality has real significance in these knitted fab- rics. It is the distinguishing mark of style influence. LL ,? "ATC ORA A A # LEAH, + 4 ae. The two named below are repre- sentative of a plain and fancy effect. Denisette which possesses a firmness of tex- ture hitherto unknown in _ trico- lettes. Because of its close-knitted fea- ture, this fabric will give satisfac- tory wear and will not sag. Vielen Kelle A fancy silk trico with a self color trellis-like stripe. Produced by Haas Brothers Fabrics Corporation Fifth Avenue, New York HARPER’S BAZAR April, 1920 HARPER’S BAZAR is _ publis ned agg at 119 W. 40th St.. Ne sw York. by International Magazine Com- pai Yearly subscription price, $6. Entered as second class matter nag 4th, 1901, at the post office at y York, N. Y., und er the act of _ h 3rd, 1879; enterec 4 on soa Ist, 18, at the post office at Atlanta, Ga., Boston, Mass., Chicago, Ill., Los Angeles, Cal., San Francisco, Cat.

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304-—New model dress Ox- fords of fime quality black, pray or brown suede; smart shortened vamps; hand turn- ed soles; high French heels. 15.00 Tax .50 308—Black or brown Russia calf pumps made on perfect- ly fitting, last, welted soles and military heels, trimmed with self leather bows. 12.50 Tax .25 —The Franklin Simon & Co. Indicative of Consummate Excellence in Shoes Franklin Simon gs Co. A Store of Individual Shops Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Sts., New York is “EN TETE” NLY when a shoe is fashioned in the smart- est fashion, of the finest leathers, with the highest grade of workmanship, does the Shoe Shop deem it worthy of the En Tete crest. This trade-mark is the wearer's assurance of exclusive footwear, the best obtainable,at reasonable prices. 300—Afternoon slippers of black patent or dull leather; hand sewed turned soles, French heels. 12.50 Taz .25 302— Baby French heel one-eyelet Colonial pumps of black patent or dull black leather. 14.00 Tax .40 with hand-turned soles. 302a—Same model of superior quality black satin 12.50 Tax .25 310—Smart walking, Oxfords of brown or black Russia calfskin, with perforated win} tips, welted soles and military heels. 12.00 Tax .20 312—Exclusive French model two-eyelet ties of superior quality brown kidskin with suede backs; also in tan or black Russia leather. Hand sewed turned soles and high French heels. 15.00 Tax .50 314—French model pumps fashioned on Americanized last. The style is new and very smart—of black satin or moire; hand sewed turned soles and high French heels. 15.00 Tax.so 314a—Same model in black or pray suede, or brown suede or kidskin. 18.50 Tax. 35 316—High laced walkin, boots of tan or black Russia calf, with fawn or gray cloth tops, smart last, welted soles and military heels. 15.00 Tax .so 318—Buttoned dress boots of patent leather with pearl gray suede tops. Made on newshort vamp last with light weight soles and French heels. 16.50 Tax .65 WOMEN’S SHOE SHOP—Third Floor Trademark THE SMARTEST FOOTWEAR for SPRING 306—Cloth of silver or gold evening, slippers fashioned ona gracefulshortened vamp last: hand sewed turned soles and French heels. 14.00 Tax .40 306a—Same model in black and silver brocade. 15.00 Tax 50 a

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Franklin Simon a Co, A Store of Individual Shops Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Sts., New York WOMEN’S SWAGGER SPRING TOPCOATS Fulfill Every Demand for Smartness and Every Requirement for Utility—indeed no Spring Wardrobe is complete without one! 4—This silver-tip Bolivia coat is a new length, and features a new yoke effect and new banded pock- ets. The inverted pleats make a trim finish at the back; the loose belt %ives a smart swing. Silk lined throughout. reindeer, victory blue or brown. Beaver, taupe, 68.00 6—Practical for utility or sports wear is this coat of angora polo cloth. It has capacious pockets, a collar that may be worn high or lowand is fashioned on those simple straight, lines that express smart- ness with comfort. Lined through- t with silk. Natural out with si 39.50 tan or beaver. WOMEN’S COAT SHOP—Fourth Floor 8—An interestin3, new model top- coat with raglan sleeves, large comfortable collar, deep conve- nient pockets, broad cuffs, and pleats that are finished with arrow- heads. It is of a soft polo cloth — in eo a blue or tan colorings. Silk lined throughout. 48.00

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~~ ~Z ¢ a //7 >) 4 * “ther J we ee | ; yA WE bli | ome 3 A

< Onyx” Hosiery a multitude of charming combinations, easily adapted to the latest whims of Spring attire, ° ° ° © < ° ¢ e ‘ Xr ” which with Quality, Merit and Service are added charms of the always popular “ONYX 7 Q Bag vare org As usual, at all good shops Emery & Beers Company Inc. Sole Owners and Wholesale Distributors.

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BONWIT TELLER & CO. 19 Pi a She Specially Shop of Oruginations 13th pry dl Sts. FIFTH AVENUE AT aa » NEW YORK WOMEN’S WOOL JERSEY SUITS FEATURED IN THE SPECIALIZED DEPARTMENT OF SPORTS APPAREL The Colors ar e Blue and Brown Heather Mixtures, plain color Navy Blue, Tan, Brown or Black. Suits that give a trim, tailored ap- pearance for town or country wear, when traveling by land or water, and are exceedingly smart for all sporting events. COUNTRE-—A feature of this modish Wool Jersey Suit is the inverted pleat at back giving the fashionable slightly drawn-in waistline; long, rever collar and f “ee three large patch ane \ ‘ , straightline skirt . . 35. 00 *w VILLA—The sim- licity of this Wool Rane Suit is its mark of distinction, also the graceful lines of the long notched col- lar, fitted-in waistline and tailor stitched pockets; pocketed skirt double strapbelt;_ new model Wool Jersey Suit; ra, straightline skirt . . . . . 35.00 top skirt with pockets. 29.50 35.00 JOURNA—The large button-through CITIS—W ool Jersey Suit in a smartly tailored patch pockets, pinched waist, mannish tuxedo model with pinched back; small change rever collar and narrowed tailored belt give pockets are conveniently placed below a an air of jauntiness to this plain tailored

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= Gas a oO) ~ (Y \@> Fs F Divalng the | a if (Plz A). - a\ Mes : y > WG ai 4 oy 4 eZ “a \ eo a is (I J ay — y - —— es - le ae AY i yy w in appealing spontaneity and wondrous color harmonies are the versatile, colorful MALLINSON’ S Silks de Luxe Exclusive in texture, peerless in quality, daringly different in design, MALLINSON SILKS are as constant a source of inspiration to the creators of fashion as the tantalizingly lovely butterflies are to all lovers of nature. DEW-KIST PUSSY WILLOW INDESTRUCTIBLE VOILE In plain colors and new prints KUMSI-KUMSA CHINCHILLA SATIN NEWPORT CORD DREAM CREPE FISHER-MAID THISLDU ROSHANARA CREPE KLIMAX SATIN KHAKI-KOOL (All trade-mark names)

By the yard at the best Silk Departments—in wearing apparel at the bettes Garment Departments and Class Shops. Look for the name MALLINSON on the selvage H. R. Mallinson & Company, Inc “The New Silks First’ New York

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Ta il To mins MURIEL — As the three- = tier skirt is accordion pleated, the silhouette of this taffeta frock gives an indescribable chic. And it required taffeta to fully express the excellent lines of the very becoming collar of this frock. In navy blue, brown or black ; $72.50. Naf Aibp! RWG JULIETTE—F rock of 5 Georgette crepe. Navy blue, "4 printed in rich colors. Pleat- : ings which accentuate the fulness at sides of skirt, also sash and little bindings at neck and sleeves, are of navy blue taffeta. $79.50- l fil mw NT im iti iim moo Ouffitting Miss 14 t 20 IN THE PARIS WAY If Miss 14 to 20 were to make a hurried trip to Paris for the selection of her Spring and early Summer ward- robe, it is certain that she would choose: —a frock of taffeta, because this is the favorite silk of all the great French cou- turiers this season; —a dance frock of black Chantilly lace ; Paris is featuring this lovely lace to help revive the art of lace-making; —a frock of Georgette crepe because Paris now, as always, favors the soft frock; —a sports coat in the new short length, which is suitable for so many occasions ; —several frocks of dotted Swiss and ging- ham in simple models with becoming col- lars of crisp white organdie. But if Miss 14 to 20 were to come, or send, to Wanamaker’s for this outfit she would get it for a frac- tion of the cost of French fashions. The illustrations show that the Wanamaker fashions are typical of Paris. The prices quoted are exceedingly moderate. POLLY FIFI PEGGY POLLY—This frock with the becoming tie-around bodice is of imported dotted Swiss; navy blue with red dots, porcelain blue with white, rose with white; also white Swiss with colored dots. Large frilled collar and cuffs of white organdie; $37.50. FIFI—This is called the “apron frock,’ because ruffles are cleverly used to give the effect of an apron. In checked gingham— white-and-blue, white-and-green, or white-and-pink. Collar and cuffs of white organdie, finished with rick-rack braid; $12.75. PEGGY—The smart little tie-around bodice is the keynote of this checked gingham frock. Rick-rack braid gives an attractive finish to the pockets and sash ends, as well as to the white organdie collar and cuffs. Blue-and-white, violet-and-white, or pink-and- white; $12.75. Wow York 7 m U CONSTANCE—Paris has decreed that even Miss 14 to 20 is to have a dance frock of black Chantilly lace combined with black taffeta, of course. We were fortunate in getting an excellent quality of the lace and yet being able to price the frock $09.50. MARIANNE—Copy of a Paris sports coat in Silver- tip bolivia in burnt orange honey color, or electric blue; $59.50. In navy blue serge; $49.50. Sports skirt—knife pleated model, in crepe de chine, white or colors; $25; in white all-wool flannel; $15. AJTTITTTUTITTTITITI TITTLE ITO CLD COCA COLE DU TOCD ACCT ODIO UD COETOMUOOMOPONTOCTCIE IIOP TET TIE TTT um Witim£, a UT TTT AUQCUUEUCEEAYUUEEOUOLOAY COCA OUTOAUNGUAUUUUE TULL EUUOOAOAINTOORECEOEOCOOEUSVICCOTEOIPUONLIFELDOATIOSOEDEAEUN T i @i SNM TTT 7

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OSA SGOWO DY, mx AAAAA-A TETOTTORTOTTIOT TOI : WLOLOLVOLO LO LOVE POL eLeys BRAAAARLAS * ene greene sere qeeceel eee ereeee eect ts ce eetee - qrecteccct (Ga, srt Sse Wicker Bassinet On wheels. Trimmed with silk and net and with two rows of wide satin ribbon lacings and a large bow in front. In white or ivory enamel. $30.75 Wicker Wardrobe Made with four compartments and the top fitted as a nursery basket. In white or ivory enamel. $19.49 High Chair White enamelled and trimmed with silk pads, good quality lace and ribbons. $11.89 Japanese Quilted Wrappers Made of satin and embroidered on the front and sleeves in a chrysanthemum design. With pocket. $6.89 Hand Painted Carriage Set Includes a strap, ribbon covered and hand painted, two carriage cover clamps rosette trimmed, and a satin covered hanger with a hand painted bow. Either in pink or blue. $3.89 Hand Painted Carriage Bow Of fine quality satin ribbon painted daintily with rose buds. Rosette of ribbon in the center. In blue or pink. $4.49 Bed Time Toys Soft white washable toys, Bunny or dog with ruff around the neck. $1.19 Rag doll dresses in gingham and chambray. $2.24 Infants Madeira Bibs Elaborately embroidered. secure | bo NEW YORK. RA May HERALD SQUARE fre. > FS eee Var! TOMA Nn MUN Me ENE MELEE

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D —— 2 "06 > je LA moll A—All wool navy serge coat with a blue linen collar. Belted and with side pockets. Sateen lined. Sizes 2 to 6. $11.74 Milan straw mushroom hat. With grosgrain band and bow. $8.74. B—All wool black and white check coat with a white pique collar and side pockets. Sateen lined. Sizes 2 to 6. $9.74. Poke of satin and straw. Velvet and cherry trimming. $4.74. C—Regulation coats for boys or girls made of navy serge. Em- blems on sleeves. Lined with sateen. $16.74. Straw roll brim sailor trimmed with grosgrain ribbon band and streamers. $3.89. G—Empire model smocked. D—All woolnavy serge box pleated belted model with oyster white linen col- lars and cuffs. $19.74. Poke of milan straw. Grosgrain ribbon and streamers. Sizes 2 to 6. $7.74. E—Smocked Empire coat of taf- feta silk with collar of net and lace. Sizes 2 to 6. In copen- hagen, rose and Pekin. $19.74. Poke of soft fancy straw. Small blue flowers and buds. $7.74. F—Velour black and white check coat (all wool) in a semi-belted model. Sizes 2 to 6. $13.74. Mushroom shape of satin, geor- gette and straw. Cluster of flowers and ribbon trimming. $7.74. Crepe de chine with hand embroidered yoke. Silk lined. Sizes 1 to 3. In light blue, pink and white. $19.74. Crepe de chine hat with streamers and tiny rosettes. $7.79. LHC LO HERALD square «Zxc. NEW YORK TAXUVa\YaNi ext YavbYexivaxtYaxivavtvey Wa liYaXiva\iva\iivaxtver Ya\ Yay

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Whether athletic or not, one cannot help but appreciate the feeling of freedom, grace and confidence that comes with being correctly corsetted. And whether one be tall and statuesque or boyishly slim and youthful, it is absolutely essential to the smartness of one’s frock, that the figure beneath it be confined by a Gossard especially designed for one’s particular type. PUL Se YW) WN; Ee se [fel mays I vi I pay TNS.) ANC Jj i (a AY ONES 1B Me) re i PENELOPE’S TRIUMPH 66 ENELOPE dear! How delightful to see and said I might try a Gossard for a month. you again, and your mother, is she here “What was it like?” too?’ “Is was an athletic Gossard; the dearest little “No. Mamma is still at White Sulphur. arrangement of pink cotton brocade (so it could I’m staying with Prudence, and, oh, Mrs. Pember- be tubbed you know) reaching only up to the ton, I'm having the most wonderful time-——-why waist. Under the bust it had elastic inserts and you simply can’t imagine!” the front has a flexible support on either side of “Oh yes I can, my dear, for you are looking a the lacing. I found I could bend and stoop in perfect picture. If one is frank one must admit it even more easily than without it. But best that a girl’s good time depends largely—no, en- of all, the whole thing was made in such a way tirely, on her looks. Now your adorable Mother that your back was braced right up. Why, at the would consider that a very worldly remark, and end of the month, Mrs. Pemberton, I could golf she would be right, as she always is.” and ride for hours and not have the ghost of a “She is always right, Mrs. Pemberton. My _ backache. And my figure does look better, doesn’t improved looks are her doing.” it?” “Really! Tell me how she managed it for I “My child, I am not going to spoil you, but I shall use the same method with my Polly.” will admit that you were a very distinguished little “Well, you know, Mamma used to think that figure as I caught sight of you at the door. You no young girl should wear corsets. I never wore certainly don’t wear athletic corsets under that a support of any sort; my things were just but- afternoon frock, do you?” toned together. I golfed and played tennis and “Oh no. I have special Gossards for the street rode, but my back always ached at night. Mamma _ and other for the evening, with the most wonder- told Mrs. Poindexter and Mrs. Palliser and asked ful brassiéres that keep me in place and yet are them if they thought I ought to be taken to see a comfortable!” specialist, but Mrs. Poindexter said “By no means: “Well, I shall remember all you have told me What she really needs is the right Gossard.” and I shall begin to prepare my Polly’s figure at “And what did your mother say?” once for her début.” “Oh Mamma is such a dear,—she is always will- “But you know, Mrs. Pemberton, there are other ing to hear the other side. They told her where front laced corsets that can not do these marvelous to find a Gossard expert, so she took me to her things. Be sure to look inside for this— GOSSARD For the slim athletic woman who desires The back of Madame’s corset ts quite as freedom of motion and a perfect founda enchanting and cleverly made as the tion for her smartest frocks there is a front, for it is boned flexibly and topped Gossard of pink silk tricot laced down with a band of elastic to allow for any the front, of course, and accompanied amount of stooping or bending. The by a brassiére of pink satin and tricot, dainty brassiére is lower in the back and cored and cut ingenunously. strapped across each shoulder with ribbon. Advertisement ee

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_—_____—Fifth Avenue F, tewart $, do. at 37th Street Correct Apparel orWomen& Misses NEW YORK New Wraps, Capes and Coats for Spring Very Moderately Priced SS Sie = > 52—Featuring embroidered Chinese Dragon motifs, this Wrap, fash- ioned in Silk and Wool Duvetyne and exhibiting voluminous collar, is unusually effective for Spring wear. Changeable Satin forms the lining. May be had in Navy, Sparrow, Chinese Blue or Pompeian. 225.00 53—Lanvin Mandarin Sport Coat reproduced in Chatoyant, a new fabric somewhat similar in weave and texture to Fortuna. Fine stitch- ing on sleeves and along edges of pockets. Radium Silk lined. Colors: 52 Light Blue, Honey or Rose. 95.00 53A—Same model in Poiret Twill with Grey or Copen stitching. Radium Silk lined. 69.50 54—Extremely effective accordion pleated Poiret Twill Skirt, in Navy only. . 27.50 55—Fine accordion pleats form the basis of this handsome three tier Navy Serge Cape, with modish full collar. Lined throughout with Radium Silk. 69.50 + 56—Bulloz model reproduced. An accordion pleated Overcape oe over a Navy Serge Wrap, very effectively trimmed with Self buttons, makes this model a unique combination for Springtime wear. 75.00 -————Send for New Fashion Book Mail or phone orders given prompt and careful attention.

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“* Youne April and Mass 2 to 6 And Three Springtime Thoughts for Brother 0A. BILLIE. Trousers cuffedlike Daddy’s are the * out of the ordinary note in Billie’s trim Middy Suit of Cadet blue linene. White banding trims his sea-goin’ collar, cuffs and panties. Sizes 2 to 4, $4.95 MARY JANE. A Bloomer Dress—that’s for * solid comfort. This, of rose, green or blue cham- bray, has collar and cuffs of white linene and smock- ing in white and colors. Sizes 2 to 6 $4.95 A flyaway sash quite naturally must be And then one addsa yoke, with Rose, light $4.95 BETSY. * of white lawn. stitchery and pastel-tinted embroidery. green or medium blue. Sizes 2 to 6 SUSAN. With ducky daddles for pockets, a ® demure peasant frock of Japanese crepe prefers to adorn its white collar and cuffs with a vein of black stitchery. Crocus, rose, blue. Sizes 2 to 6, $5.95 Susan’s hat comes in black and burnt, in navy and in black, straw $10.50 PEGGY. It’s nice to be a boy sometimes, but it’s * nicerstilltobea girlin ever-so-wide blue chambray bloomers and a dimity blouse, crisply fluted, and blue and gold as to stitchery. Sizes 2 to 6, $4.95. Peggy’s hat is navy or black milan straw $7.00 TEDDY. Perfect affinities are blue chambray * panties and a trim dimity blouse, hand-smocked, and cleverly stitched around collar and cuffs. Please note, too, Teddy’s smart buttons. What nicer suit could Brother choose to wear of an April Day? Sizes 2 to 4 $4.95 G BOBBY. An embroidered motif is most correct on a * blue linene collar, which matches blue linene panties, And of course one’s blouse must be white, and one’s motif red and blue. black milan straw Sizes 2 to 4, $2.95. Bobby’s hat is blue or $5.00

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MM UT UT TIVIT fe 3 2 = a 5 e TTT —_— —— Dit WAN UNN EEN ‘ . 4 ab Ai dine _ tt preret es PTTit. al wenmeetrt Mn TOVUNTTTTTT TTT TINT TM WONT STITT TTT TTT TINIAN DU COTTA TT UIUC AL Spring Tailor-mades for Misses A.—Covert cloth or navy tricotine . . . . . $95.00 tricolette having a tricotine sash finished B.—Navy tricotine; the coat collar and facing with fringe .°. . 1. 2 + «+ « + « GS of duvetym .°. . . ++ « © « « GOR : C.—Costume model (three-piece) of tricotine; the D.—Sports Suit, combining leather-trimmed coat . ; embroidered overblouse of bright-toned of gabardine with skirt of checked velours $95.00 Te THe The sizes range from 14 to 20. The coats are all silk-lined. The hats can be supplied to order. B. Altman & Co. : Madison Avenue—Fifth Avenue, New York Chirty-fourth Street Thirty-fifth Street =UACMarar csc ceeecneoagnanascegnngnnavanssunuuusnseeuesengganovaveenonaenaguasencenruasnacerngcannccanesen ney COUMEAEATTTTTNCATETTGANE AANA TEAT AAT A NAT EA DG ATAU ET AUEH EON EHEAEOEAEL SEMA EAE PA OMN EOD AO ET ENT EN EUGENE TL PULLER WUT HOUTA TTT ETT ETT Mn nL 13

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Fu ANS now for some of the daintiest conceptions in Rosemary modes that we've ever had the fortune to present—delightfully developed in airy cottons of rare exquisiteness in an untold number of Parisian effects and bewitching drapings. f —— Model 131—Delicate-hued organdie, trimmed and sashed and collared with white, follows smart and youthful lines that lead to this cool result— a sheer dainty frock for the hottest of summer afternoons. In White, Coral, Blue, Rose. Maize, Lavender. All sizes $35.00 Model 133—There is an unmistakably seductive French accent belonging to this frock—noticeable in the French voile that makes it, in the saucy flares that mark each hip, and in the piquancy of the organdie collar The M. O'Neil Co. A. F. Churchwell Albany, N.Y. Waldman Bros. Alexandria, La. Simons Bros., Ltd. Asbury Park,N.J. Frank's . Rich & Bros. Atlanta, Ga. Baltimore, Md. Joel Gutman & Co. Baton Rouge, La. S. 1. Reymond Hart- Albin Co. Billings, Mont. po S Albany. Ga. If Rosemary Dresses are not obtainable in your city, remit to The Rosemary Dressmakers you will be supplied without delay Bloomington, Ill. W. H. Rola Boise, Idaho The Mode Co. Boston, Mass. R. H. White Co. Bristol, Tenn.-Va. The H. P. King Co. Brookfield, Mo. P. W. Hartman & Co. Binghamton,N.Y. Sisson Bros. & Welden Co. Birmingham, Ala. Leveman, Joseph & Loeb Pi algal 40 anit N Model 134—A brief little gown of imported dotted swiss adorns itself with a dashing sash and tiny buttons of organdie the same colour as its dots, for reasons most anyone can see. Ina number of colours. All sizes. $ 35.00 White, Blue, Pink, Lavender, Maize. All sizes $35.00 OFFERED in NEW YORK by FRANKLIN SIMON & CO. InOTHER CITIES by the FOLLOW- ING REPRESENTATIVE STORES * Brooklyn, N.Y. Frederick Loeser & Co. Clarksdale, Miss. Buffalo, N.Y. The Wm. Hengerer Co. Cleveland, Ohio Burlington, lowa John Boesch Columbia, S.C. allas, Tex. Cedar Rapids, la. C. Denecke, Inc. Dayton, Ohio Charleston, S.C. Kerrison Dry Goods Co. Denver, Col. Charleston,W.Va. Palley & Livingston Des Moines, Ia. Charlotte, N.C. The Little Long Co. Detroit, Mich. Chattanooga, Tenn. D. B. Leveman Co. Dubuque, Ia. Chicago, III. Mandel Brothers EI Paso, Tex. Chillicothe, Mo. P. W. Hartman & Co. veinennas 14 co. Cincinnati, O. _ Kline’s The Fort Smith, Ark. Wolf-Pollock Dry Gds. Co Fort Worth, Tex. The Vogue Frankfort, Ky. W. S. Farmer & Son Galveston, Texas Robt. I Cohen Grd.Rapids,Mich. Herpolsheimer Co. spon & Co. Great Fails, Mont. Ferguson, Importer Smith's Greensville, Miss. Nelms — Hannibal, Mo. _ E. L. Rei ay oat Co. Harrisburg, Pa. Mary Sachs A.T.Lewis & Son Dry Gds Co Houghton, Mich. Morris Levine Harris-Emery Co. Kline’s Palais Royal Co. Popular Dry Goods Co. Fall River, Mass. Cherry & Webb ROSEMARY DRESSMAKERS Houston, Tex. _ Foley Bros. Dry Goods Co. Indianapolis, Ind. L. S. Ayres & Co. Kansas City, Mo. Kline’s Knoxville, Tenn. S. H. George & Son Lake Charles, La. The Muller Co., Ltd. Lawrence, Mass. Cherry & Webb AIP

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Lh LOOP TESSCS Yu} find these springtime and summery modes delightfully youthful in all their lines, equally becoming in all the sizes in which they're fashioned— | a size range varying from fourteen to the maturer forty-four. \ Model 132—Plain voile or fancy voile frilled and sashed and with a vest of sheerest organdie, may appear thus youthfully and rest assured of in- stant popularity. Many colours. All Sizes. $35.00 laartt Pree Model 130—While her expression is delightfully innocent, she knows—as every one else knows—the art ful- ness of her Irish linen Eton frock and her vest of dotted swiss. White, Rose, Blue, Lavender. All sizes $35 00 OFFERED in CHICAGO by MANDEL BROTHERS |— es IN THE Newer COTTONS of EXQUISITENESS and CHARM SIZES: | For Women 34 lo 44 For Misses 14 to 18 | | ‘ ah 4 A . \ = (! Model 135—In this model, Organdie first em- broiders, then tucks its way into the feminine affections, but to be quite sure of its success, adds a frilly net vestee and collar—and a_ very young sash behind. White, Coral, Blue, Rose, Maize, Lavender. All sizes. $35.00 Lima, O. Cart I Lincoln, Neb. eS See Little Rock, Ark. Pfeifer Bros. Louisville, Ky. Besten & Langen well, Mass. Cherry & Webb Los Angeles, Cal. Jacoby Bros. Macon, Ga. Smith, Thompson Co. Games. Ge Memphis, Tenn. B. Lowenstein & Bro Ottumwa, lowa Milwaukee, Wis. T. A Chapman & Co. i 1 . Wis. T. A. > . I. Mancapolis, Minn. L. S. Donaldson & Co. Prtedelphia. Pa. ontgomery,Ala. Nachman & Meertief Phoenix, Ariz uncie, Ind. W. A. McNaughton Co. Pine Bluff, Ark. NewBedford,Mass. Cherry & Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. ew Orleans, La. Holland Dress Shop Pittsfield, Mass. New York City Franklin Simon & Co. Portland, Ore. Norfolk, Va. Snyder’s, Inc. Providence. R.I. 2 to 16 West 33rd Streee NEW YORK. OklahomaCity,Okla. Scott, Halliburton Co. Cal. K In OTHER CITIES by the FOLLOW- ING REPRESENTATIVE STORES Quincy Il. Kespohl-MohrenstecherCo. Rock Island, Ill. The M. & K. Co. Rockford, Ill. Ashton Dry Goods Co. ome, Ga. J. Kuttner & Co. Sacramento, Cal. Wasserman-Gattman Co. St. Louis, Mo. The Famous & Barr Co. SaltLakeCity,Utah Keith-O’Brien Co. San Diego, Cal. Holzwasser, Inc. Nelson Cloak Co. The B. & M. Strawbridge & Clothier Chas. Korrick & Bro. McEwen toy Store The Rosenbaum Co. England Bros. SanFrancisco,Cal. H. Liebes & Co. H. Liebes & Co. vannah, Ga. Marcus & Co. Cherry & Webb Scranton, Pa. The Heinz Store Seattle, Wash. The Bon Marche : Shreveport, La. Dreyfuss Dry Gds. Co., Ltd. South Bend, Ind. Newman’a Spartanburg,S.C. Floyd P. Liles Co. : Spokane, Wash. Culbertson-Grote-Rankin Co. Springfield, Mass. Albert Steiger Co. Springfield, O. The Edward Wren Co. If Rosemary Dresses are notobtainable in your city, remit to The Syracuse, N.Y. S. Burdick & Sons 5 Terre Haute, Ind. A- Herz 2 Rosemary Toledo, O. tein’s Dressmakers Topeka, Kan Pelletier Stores Co. aii ill Troy, N.Y. D. Brenne: lie s eh 7 ; od ulsa, Okla. _Halliburton-Abbott Co. “ ih Vy le @ Utica, N.Y. _D. Price & Co EE Waco, Tex. Sanger Bros. 3 BROOKLYN: He MU FREDERICK LOESER & CO. 15 sraveesraneonnenensinenniensceney sorter sar aauanacneaT

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p=) oc > — a _*= = S&S = eS FIFTH AVENUE Between 34th and 35th Streets, NEW YORK Three Correct Tricotine Talleurs for Springtime —— te) Anunin gui uinintnntann tundaa ti ‘Ve , CS nen ye =| C — Model A_ JN Model B Mode c& © TRICOTINE TRICOTINE TRICOTINE TAILLEUR TAILLEUR TAILLEUR 75! i= 75” Tatlormade Suits Authorized by Russeks—Fifth Avenue USSEKS ARE AGAIN FIRST TO FEATURE THE NEWER AND LAST-MINUTE R THOUGHTS IN TAILLEURS,—SMART, CHIC, YOUTHFUL AND MANNISH FROM COAT-COLLAR TO SKIRT-HEM.. . THE MODISH ETON JACKET TO THE RAKISH BOXCOAT AND DISTINGUISHED SLENDERIZED LONG COAT SUIT, THE THREE-PIECE COSTUME AND THE TAILLEUR- BLOUSE MODEL, RUSSEKS HAVE ASSUMED A PREMIER POSITION BECAUSE OF THE COMMANDING VARIETY OF ORIGINAL MODELS SHOWN AT $75.00 TO $225.00. . FROM THE SPANISH BOLERO-EFFECT AND () ‘J Ia) v, TTT TTT TTT ToT ATT TTT HATTA A TheThreeTricotineT ailleurs Above Pictured ArePriced at $75.@ Orders By Mail Will Be Promptly Filled AN State Bust and Waist Measurements SAG, Wing ; Write for Style Folders yy, i MI) Titre

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SEND FOR FREE DE LUXE STYLE CATALOGUE THE LILY OF FRANCE IS A BEAUTIFUL CORSET WORN BY BEAUTIFUL WOMEN TO MAKE THEM MORE BEAUTIFUL. LILY or FRANCE (CORSET (O. 303 SIXTH AVE,NEW YORK

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TIT PTT NA Monmororre PIOPIOPioriorio’ ashington, D.C. WILLYS-KNIGHT WNERS will tell you that the Willys-Knight car runs bet- ter after 5,000 miles than it ran at 1,000 miles; and still better after 10,000 miles than at 5,000 miles. In this remarkable way the Willys- Knight sleeve-valve motor is unique —it improves with use. Its daily performance is consistent and dependable. The chassis, rigid and strong, is as much responsible for the car’s long life as the motor for its constant performance. Willys-Knight Booklet on Request WILLYS-OVERLAND, INC., Toledo, Ohio WILLYS-OVERLAND, LIMITED. Toronto. Canada TUTTLE

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ra ide A Ripe The Champs Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe, Paris HE victories of France are won not only on the fields of battle but in the laboratories and ateliers where the finest luxuries of life are perfected. The dressing tables of the civilized world are equipped by Paris or by imitations of Parisian products, but the number and variety of such imita- tions serve only to emphasize the leadership of the French in the manufacture of toilet articles. Among the most widely but least successfully imitated products of Paris are Dorin’s exquisite compactes, but none of these many imitations has the quality which have made the original Dorin Compactes known to women of discrimination all over the world. OY : eC LA D ORINE Ymported Shemale Bwder O is made in four shades to harmonize with every complexion: Blanche, Natu- 1a WI Che 1 \5 relle, Rosee and Rachel. Dorin’s Compact Rouges are in a variety of natural tones of which Rouge Brunette and Rouge Framboise are the favorites Convenient hand bag size soc for either powder or rouge. Large dressing table size $1.00. For your protection Dorin’s Compactes are sold only in containers marked ‘‘ Dorin Paris.”’ WHAT IS YOUR COLORING ? Send description of your hair, eyes and complexion with 25c in stamps and we will send two miniature compactes, La Dorine, and one of Dorin’s Rouge. Also booklet reproducing, in full color, seven exquisitive types of beauty with direction for choosing the correct compactes, for each type. Or for 10c in stamps we will send the booklet with generous samples of La Dorine and Dorin’s Rouge en poudre instead of the compactes. With La Dorine and Dorin's Rouges use La Dorine Lambsdown Pads. All Sizes. Finest Quality F.R. ARNOLD & COMPANY, Importers WEST TWENTY-SECOND STREET, NEAR FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK

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a: sae » Me “ : < - tab 7 emailed - = ’ a ad % . - . rd * . ? le Pa. 7 ; e 4 ¥ % . | a ¢< oe = ° (3 ae REE 6 eR RE IR ee TR Sain Oe ang Phan | F * Tae s? | ie RS pas ey ? . 2, xf or a, t 24% - * 3 Wise Nyt . . - ‘ oe % at 4) a ii date mae <a . Tt R , : ¥ :

‘Brings Beauty while You Sleep fompeiag ight

ONFIDENTLY you face the searching light of the morning sun, knowing that the tired lines of the previous day have been softened and sub- dued by Pompeian NIGHT Cream. This improved cold cream brings, while you sleep, the beauty of a soft, youthful skin. Pompeian NIGHT Cream is for sale at all toilet counters at 80c the jar. Other popular Pompeian toilet preparations are Pom- peian DAY Cream (vanishing), which removes face shine; Pompeian BEAUTY Powder, a powder that stays on; Pompeian BLOOM, a rouge that won't crumble; and Pompeian FRA- GRANCE (a talcum with an exquisite new odor). “Don’t Envy Beauty— Use Pompeian” The name Pompeian on any package is your guarantee of quality and safety. Should you not be completely satisfied, the purchase price will be gladly refunded by The Pompeian Co., at Cleveland, Ohio. THE POMPEIAN COMPANY, Cleveland, Ohio Also Made in Canada

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SOUOROUEOOGLELOAALELEROCAGUGSOLOCREGSARORGRESLONGAOOGGESSLOOSRADACELCEOROAIEIEAIOOCORDASOAAIEN S00 SG GREESERENASOOROOROGEALOCRODIOUELREDEBEERIdaa acces ' ' ii HALE (Nl {MOM AMA Re i Out of High Rent Section All Breeds Kibieo Nh | MEN MAY COME AND MEN MAY GO is always oe | er cece, Bi BUT A DOG’S LOVE GOES ON FOREVER dent and _pro- ** Nodart’s Lord Algy”’ CHA MPION 4 Bred—Blue Ribbon Winners. Beautifully marked stive purchaser : P . — ce tage oO mat ver Once you are enshrired in his doggy soul you are there for yp ay — a4 ee es eternity. More important to him even than bones, and greater low as $35.00. Satis- that same good | | love than this hath no dog. If you have never looked down —enen Guarantees. stock and servicoas we would furnish our city into the unutterable adoration and trust in a dog’s eyes, then a rien¢ ‘ y ° ‘ . Oursisagood reputationof long standing, ours is may heaven have mercy upon you. You have missed one of Crafton 760 stock of proven merit—and aservice of unques- ‘ * a se tioned difference. ‘This all for you to command! the greatest joys of life. a NODART KENNELS NEW YORK KENNELS, 113 East 9th Street : (MRS. A. W. THOMPSON, Prop.) f-block fi Ww ker's), New York > . " = i , (hatt-bled i Seve Danser a Let Harper’s Bazar’s Dog Man repair the damage as speedily 295 Prospect Ave., Ingram, Pittsburgh, Pa. as possible. Write him, tell him the kind of a dog you want, = and he will start searching for it at once. Address, The Dog Man nzsedgr brae Collie Kennel CLANMOUNT pric winning Sunnybrae Collie Kennels St. Bernards. Al 7 a] ‘ al rn) nm ” nestin Se . . KENNELS = pi borand HARPER’S BAZAR DOG DEPARTMENT pe ny agp These are all bred from champion stock. Our 9 , . ? nels are full of the Parbold, Seedley and prices are most reasonable. Entire satisfac- 118 West 4oth Street New Y ork Southport Strains. For 35c will send tion guaranteed. Write at once, my booklet on training the Collie. Mrs. W. J. MOUNTAIN, Prop. RAYM LA 1287 Queen St. E. Toronto, Ont., Canada | | F. A (OND Cc - RK Bloomington, Illinois SALE : F "Be e T © B : 4 a Rn gt | Spanie 2 2 : airn Crriers || pieraiuns Imported pedigreed Pekingese cums. Ace couse: |! SEALYHAM and we corse es || CAIRN TERRIERS Extra care taken of ma- trons sent for breeding. Tough as the strongest and small enough 29 Shafter St.. Dorchester. Mass ee Visitors Always Welcome EMWOOL KENNELS : 332 Bath Ave. Mrs. By ron Roge rs to carry under LONG BRANCH, N. J. has just returned from ENGLAND your arm. OSTON TERRIERS and has a great many adults and a Ciel B During the last year I have a FOR SALE - ‘ | ISH SHEEP GS eeeted te cates et Meer’ Inspection and correspondence invited | | Winner of three challenge Berm sy a OLD ENGLIS DO purchaser isa satisfied customer. —— ne astle Hill Ooa. Puppies and Grown Dogs usually sceuniipaisnebcmmten. an LLANDOYLEY KENNELS nshaw Out of the Wes for Sale ofcompanions. My specia ty I PARK AVENUE Phone QUINNATISSET KENNELS Mrs, Wilbur Kirby Hitchcock handsomely marked Bostons. PORT WASHINGTON, LL Mrs. Winans Burnett, Thompson, Conn. ~ iford R i, Pl He MRS. KR. F. FORBUSH, | at os oo antvil | Dan 'S CONDITION PILLS] Wi5oc SHOP * BOSTON TERRIERS | OUR mecitty i etving MERIT MADETHEM FAMOUS tects POLICE DOG PUPPIES atistaction in all breeds A marvelous tonic for dogs that are the real American Dogs. More popular A ot fae Every dog guar- all run down, thin and unthrifty, than ever. I have for sale some splendid | of the very best breeding. Males and fe- cataak take your re- with weak, watery eyes, variable ap- puppies and matured stock that are hand- males ready for immediate shipment. My quirements } petite and high colored urine. 50! hey almost somely marked. Home raised dogs are strong and healthy. Prices are . | | make a dead dog eat rice, cents. 60 meihie mn f » s ~“lare \ J 38 West 42nd Street pages on dog training, 10 hy Mrs. H. KOCHLER sensible. Write me for further particulars. no fom oe ae id | THE DENT MEDICINE CO., Newburgh, N. Y., Toronto, Canada, 76 Harvard Street. Rochester, N. Y. MRS. T. HUMPHREYS, JR. sacsceie as J SWEETBRIAR KENNELS aaa STINE elena = P. O. 215 Narberth, Penna. Airedales, Collies, Pekingese, , tet eed Pomeranians, Poodles, Span- Offer A few choice specimens, both AIREDALE TERRIERS eas iels, St. Bernards, Fox Ter- | Whiz Bang, Camion, Bul- sexes, for sale, by the celebrated Champion Soudan Swiveller [+ or s H ER OS lets, Gamester and Biue Ng aging ON at stud, fee $25.00. The [* Fler, Hunting Logs, Angoes | | Chip registered sons of C. 107292 Sire of Champion Abbey Cats and birds of the very | Joker II ex Camouglage. Finest & = and expression of King Nobbler, Champion bes ality. Send pf | | any dog inthe country. Prices Gold Heeis, Champion Sale pds od le -_ Pave Ben F. H. GARBUTT $25.00 up Kirks Patricia. Puppies,and pangs - = ay E A = 202 Meeting Street Send stamp for illustrated circular grown stock for sale. DELL KENNELS, YORK, Providence, R. I. MASSASOIT KENNELS I SHIP ON APPROVAL PA. Box 195 Springfield, Mass. BRAYVENT KENNELS oe 232'¢ Clark St., panes as ae Westfield, N. J. ~ Phone 424M Westfield ~ f ‘DOG DISEASES | IHARLWOOD Kennels, breed- | JOUN A. BELL Cass MARCUS BOYD | | ere and exhibitors of high clase | | | 47 Terminat Way. Pittsburgh Pa. an Se siovt, Deane siretenen ed ae | And How to Feed white English Bull Terriers. ana rylce the Irish Terrier Champ America of the above breeds at prices that Mailed Free to any address Puppies and grown stock for show | Wrose Badger. A grand at “ pangies, by will surprise you. Sound and healthy stock. y the Author. these celebrated dogs for sale rish Terriers | eee or companions. Write your wants. make the best pal for either grown-ups or MR JOSEPH PERKINS H. CLAY GLOVER co., Inc. W & F LEWIS children. For intormation apply to owners or ve 118 West 31st St., New York 268 Roxt R d . 4 a CAN ALF. DELMONT, Wynnewood, Pa. Lambton Mills P. O. bs Sy SS : : ONTARIO, CANADA ENGLISH BULL Docs gaia || WIRE HAIR FOX TERRIER) | teepaue = breeding. This picture ones one oe AND POLICE PUPPIES Over 150 first and special prizes taken last year, includ- tional puppies now. ° e ° ° State your wants. also grown stock. All from the finest pedigreed prize winning ine best of both sexes, | st Male: 50.00 up. Fe- ° : ddr largest show in the country. males $35 up. stock. Prices are reasonable. For particulars address Exhibited this yea My own breeding shows, and won 735 first apd 7) pO! D SI 8 4 riz e othing un rigiamnteesziane | | CONFIDO KENNELS OLD WESTBURY, L. I. | | 33." SLND, N. ALSTEAD COLLIE puree BAYVILLE, LONG ISLAND, N. Y. Rahway, New Je NEW YORK DOG [“«Th. Blue G Farm Kennels, | | BELGIAN SCHIPPERKES EXCHANGE e Blue Grass Farm Kennels, “Best Small Watchdog in the World” SCOTTISH TERRIERS of J ” 7 They are gentle with children al- = igsereorated 0006 offer for sale, Setters and Pointers, Fox and though very active, alert, and cour- For Sale and at Stud high bred dogs. The pe mene oo oe J a ageous; their small size, short-hair, Make Best Companions. arg: 7 anc 208sum 0 ° a abd les > >» re . pera biggas o —— Hounds, Bear and Lion Hounds, also Airedale a * cog mg os ato Equ ally at Home in House ee alone to judge the quality... Satisfaction guar- " the ideal and perfect house dog. and Stable. eee ll Pon anteed o money, refunded. Sixty “eight page Puppies from $35 up. WALESCOTT ane i . highly illustrated instructive and interesting : ig NEW YORK CITY catalogue for ten cents in stamps or coin.’ VICTOR VERHELLE Bernardsville, Tel. Gramercy 6105 R. F.D.3 Somerville, New Jersey

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AIREDALE TERRIERS ‘*The One Man Dog’’ ‘‘The Dog That Thinks’’ An Airedale Terrier is the Dog Supreme At Stud: International Champion Koote- for Companionship, for Watch Dog pur-__ nai Chinook, the only American Bred poses, and Surpasses Every Other Dog International Airedale Champion on on Earth as a Companion for Children. Earth. Fee $25. The all round dog of the times for city or Puppies Sired by International Cham- country, a Useful Canine Citizen. ion Kootenai Chinook now ready for | We Offer country bred, farm raised pup- mmediate Delivery. : pies from registered thoroughbred stock; Prompt shipment. Safe delivery. Satis- a full grown male, and a full grown female _faction guaranteed. already served by a registered stud. Illustrated Booklet and Price List Upon Request Vibert Airedale Farm, 3: Weston, N. J. Largest Exclusive Airedale farm in the world Phone, Bound Brook, 397

iti Ml i I

Noswal HIGH CLASS Nebob | puppies by this cele- brated prize winning do; and matured

| DALSACE KENNELS | |! sAavE YOUR DOG For BULLTERRIERS

LICE DOG , ; Maa stock for show and PO , S | From mange or eczema with “Koat sport Champion. QUE of the pure white strain from Franklin, Pa. | Kure Trial bottle sent post $1.00 NOSWAL NABO imported stock. Nice puppies PEE BR. as cccasevctctstasene also atStud.Fee, $20.00 Make prize winners. No profiteer prices The home of Ch. Harras, the big winner | h ° » -velt < viter of E yiew . T KU J |} We have nothing but Teddy Roosevelt and Jupiter of Elmview | KOAT KURE COMPANY, Gan bank. ‘Welke ot ones Correspondence a pleasure.

Puppies and trained dogs for sale | New Brunswick, N. J. ’ WALTER F. SEILER Also stud service A. H. HELMER 608-609 Wilder Bldg. Rochester, N. Y. ; = - 69 Tonawanda St. % 2 eo aot 3 anes . — es — | BUFFALO, N. Y. = | - Jeganece Sqentole ~~ lll Mudie AM ai uf | A IS =a | THOROUGH - BRED . ekingese, Poms, = fe | | WHITE COLLIES Fox Terriers, 2 S Trained Beagles | The Most Beautiful @ Airedale Terricrs =| | SPOFESMEN wbvic, tox: coon, AIREDALE TERRIERS — [| ie Most Beauisfu In fact most any breed, | EI and opossum dogs, bird dogs, pet and farm | without doubt the best all around dog \ A Guardian for the at reasonable prices |B dogs, swine, rabbits, pigeons, pheasants, | Mine are typical specimens, intelligent and | Home, Playmate for Satisfaction guaran | = goats. 100 varieties blooded stock. Cir- are winners of many prizes in keenest compe- | the Children, Com- ogee. Correspondence a = culars toc, tition. Quality pupples for sale at all times, oy for the aoe »leasure. at reasonable prices. ld, and an Ideal pe : VIOLET HILL KENNELS if" , Shepherd. Pairs Not Mrs. G.W.BROWN =| York, Pa. I at ng AR Box 1, Langhorne, Pa wn SER Ns ROOD | SHOMONT KENNELS _ = Box 457 Monticello, lowa

OR Sale—Hich Cias; ALBERCLAIRE PEKINGESE CHAMPION | | PWinning wire-haired AMERICAN DOG EXCHANGE | FOR SALE DOG BISCUIT Terriers. Irieh Terrier 3 137 East 12th it.» pesiniealis New buns ws Two male puppies of very rare breeding iM crisp. clean. balanced ration of Manchester Black and John F. Galloway. Frooties. te tan TYP . Wheat and cereals. be ° a 2 ° - is a . FINE STURDY ICAL cartons, also 50-lb. containers and Terriers and mostly all | A large selection of Le ge at Bom sat You will be proud to own one. bags for large kennels and park ani- breeds for sale. Puppies always on hand at popula he 8. TO PRIVATE HOMES ONLY mals. SEND FOR SAMPLE, prices Apply | Ist prize Stud Dogs always in stock. and our book on howto care for and Angora Cats and Kittens. ALBERCLAIRE KENNELS _ erie Dee | | ALF.DELMONT | | 1 win supply you with any breed of Dog on ; 1462 Fair Avenue Columbus, Ohio CHAMPION ANIMAL FOOD (0., Minneapolis, Mina. Leeds Kennels, | | shortest notice. Satisfaction guaranteed. A Wynnewood, Pa. j Daily shipments to all parts of the world. ‘ panmnaiiil LS Ser - —— mate _ a sa ees d GOOD’S DOG SOAP 7 1. : ’ **Whose Dog?’’ Kills Fleas, Cures || YOUR DOGIS HERE | ||| DOGS of High Degree | Ree qenmeien Galea Mange and makes < | WE breed and import and deal in High Coller tells at a glance. Best- : he hai These three pages contain announce- | Class Dogs only. If you want a mon- — oak-tanned 2g d the hair grow. ments of the best kennels in the coun- | f| grel, don’t write us. If you want a well bred ole sag ay eMedia t They can fulfill your wishes, no dog that your neighbors and friends will ad- Give NECK MEASURE- ‘ JAMES GOOD 8 Soe hal ak on aia mire, write us. Pointers, Setters, St. Ber- MENT and NAME wanted ) matter what kind of dog you want. nards, Newfoundlands, Collies, Spaniels, END for prices of ether 2111-13-15 East Susquehanna In me meyer will help if you Pps Toy Poodles and Maltese. Stamp |B styles. i ~ oa Avenue, Philadelphia mention Harper's Bazar lor reply. SLE A ; All D ists H It South Jersey Kennels, Gloucester City. N. J. 383C.S. Dearborn St., Chicago ruggists Have

—-_—~—as=if

AIREDALE AND WIRE HAIR FOXTERRIERS | UP. EKINGESE = 100 PUPPIES=SELECTION All ages and colors Chiefly “Sleeve Dogs” and puppies. Champion Bred. The only dogs for the home, Children and Protection SOME AS LOW AS $25 GEELONG KENMEILS ~ . - «- «- Lakewood, N.J.5 | Ore See = See MRS. H. A. BAXTER paehed tae Setisfaction Guaventent | 489 FIFTH AVENUE, New York GREAT NECK, L.1. EE = Tel. Vanderbilt 1236 Tel. Great Neck 418 Specimen Puppy

Page 23

in Harper’s

Bazar is R ecommended

Every Kennel

WHAT KIND OF A DOG DO YOU WANT for SPORT, WATCHDOG, COMPANION?

EVERY PRICES. CERTAINTY. RESENTED TO BE. BREED THE SATISFACTION IN DOG BUYING BUYING SECURITY THAT YOUR PURCHASE IS MENTS. DOGS SHIPPED TO ALL PARTS YE OLDE DOG KENNELS SHOWROOM: 1176 Madison Ave., cor. 86th St. TEL. LENOX 669 - COUNTRY AFFORDS AT FROM US GIVES ADDI WRITE OF SENSIBLE REDUCED TO A ALL THAT I US STATING YOUR REQUIRE- THE NEW YORK CITY TIONAL r IS REP- WORLD.

FLEAS aeeetinn Reimer scnren } Telieved anc permanen y MANGE cured by QUICKWORK | | ECZEMA MANGE AND FLEA |f | SOAP. Price $1.10 per can postpaid. | WORMS in one hour, surely, ERADICATED on “4 a QUICKWORK Wwe is M EXPELLER, PRICE $1.10 POSTPAID. Ww purifies dog's blood. lr Ql ICKWORK cleanses stomach | CONDITION regulates bowels | POWDER makes dog eat. | A_ powerlul tonic. | Gives “‘pep’’ bounce | and new life. Price } $1.10 POSTPAID. | Combination of All Three Above Put up at the world. preparations $3 postpaid. largest kennel of its kind in the Used on over 5000 dogs. Should be in the hands of every real dog lover. Cir | cular on request, or mail your order with remittance to | H. VIBERT | | Box 4, Bound Brook, N. J. |

lany blue ribbon winners. 70 West 47th Street 2 blocks from Ritz MEDOR KENNELS Formerly of London, England Our ay 7 my is Pekingese and Wire Haired Fox Terriers. All other breeds. Phone Bryant 6340 New York

Half hour by motor from New York Springfield Chow Chow Kennels MR. T. W. DOWNS, Proprietor Rare Quality Chow Puppies, Dark Red and Blacks On Merrick Road, cor. Compton Lane, SPRINGFIELD, LONG ISLAND

‘PHONE 1922 SPRINGFIELD

$250.00 each worth $1000.00 each. 596 Ellicott Street

FOR SALE—" of the best collection of Frenchies, are left two high class French Bull Dogs On account of death in the family these extraordinary dogs must be closed out. Mrs. D. E. Ford

Buffalo, N. Y. ra ;

Cocker Spaniels ROBINHURST KENNELS For Sale— Young cocker spaniels, male and female, in red, black and parti-color. All ) clean healthy & youngsters from PEN BRT. prize-winning stock that wiil make fine pets. Prices very reasonable. - Write for particulars and description ROBINHURST KENNELS | Glen Head, Long Island

WHITWORTH PEKINGESE | Little Aristocrats | Wonderfully Attrac- tive and Full of Life All Ages and Colors Mrs. H. L. Mapes 26 Melrose Ave., Mt. Vernon, N.Y.

Willinez Sennele FOR SALE—Old English Sheep Dog Puppies by the prize win- ning dog International Weather who won highest honors at Westminster Show and Phila-

delphia this year. Old English | Sheep Dogs make the best | companions and are useful in all farm work. They are noted for their sagacity and intel- ligence. For further particulars write to Mr. Fred Leighton, | | Willinez Farm, Holmdel, L. I. “JUNGLE PUSSIES” (Finest Persian Stock) Prince Rascal. son of famousCh. Little Bear and grandson of the never beaten Erebus (Champion) wih Princess Rascalla, daughter of ai (Champion) and Mizzie Mov, Daughter of Aurora Sonny Boy (Champion), live, free ranging on one of the Thousand Islands, River St. Lawrence,

Their kittens bave broad flat faces, the famous Erebus ears, cobby type and magnifi- cent coats, Princess Rasca'la, as won- derful a black as ber mother, offers line bred blacka at $35.00 and $50 00, Mizzie Mow offers gorgeous orange tabbies and also blacks at $25.00 and $35 00; beauti- ful tertolrerhells and off colors $15 00 up. In every mating three of the four parents are +how Cham- pions pedigrees sub- mitted. Heaith guarauteed and ssf: shipment from | . 8. side of river. Address E. a STAEBLER Thousand Islands, Gananoque, Ont.

pra haute ane inen anANLNG: aN nc ee

PEKINGESE EXCLUSIVELY : The best quality kennels west of New = York. All puppies inoculated against dis- tem per free of charge. Puppies all colors, broad face, good bone, and best of breed- ing. All! particulars cheerfully given SUNIDALE KENNELS Owner Miss M. aera Bur meatans lowa

a kin ge ese of unusually even type Brood matrons and grown dogs for sale Also three exceptionally fine htters of puppies from Champion Young, Wenti, Champion Wee Choo and Choo Tai of Hydegree. Country reared; home trained; ideal manners. Absolutely free from usual kennel disease 8; perfect health and condition. MRS. MORTON Z. PAUL _“*Mid Trees,”” Sharon Hill, Pennsylvania "MEXICAN CHIHUAHUA DOGS Smallest of Toy Dogs For sale and at stud. Ideal house pets, very affectionate and in- telligent, Registered and ¢ ma = Stock. Write to MRS. c D. ATWOOD 247 West 72nd St. New York, N. Y. Phone 6972 Columbus, SNOW WHITE ESQUIMO PUPPIES 7am) Che sinartest, handsomest and j} cutest dogs on earth. Nat- ural trick dogs and very com- ical Just the thing for children, playful, harmless as a kitten and very uffectionate. Always full of “Pepp.’’ My not raised in a city back yard, or crowded kennels, but on a Kansas farm. They are full of vigor und the picture of health. - Send 5c in stamps for illus- trated cats alog on these popular dogs Terms Wilk ship on approval to responsible parties. Guarantee safe delivery anywhere HE BROCKWAY KENNELS, idwin. Kansas.

puppies are

YE OLDE ENGLISH MASTIFFES British alike in breeding and character, as a guard and companion for ladies and children he is unex- celled. Fawn or Brindle Puppies $50 up. C. W. DICKINSON Wingfield Kennels 884 Dufferin St., Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

SABLE JUDGE Winner of highest honor of any Toy Dog at Pitts- burglt 1919. Bred by me. I have handsome Pomera- nian and Pekingese pup- pies for sale, registered stock. Send fo; particulars. Mrs. George H. Dunn “—-— R. F. D. No. 1 Conneout, Onio.

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and treating all classes of dogs, out-door runs, inside every night, located in an ideal wee, 28 miles from N ‘ity, open all the year Personal attention to all cases DR. EARLE F. SCHOFIELD, V. S. Phone 646

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THUMM SCHOOLS The Island ~——e amp éconnel ,,." CHINA, MAINE Regular camp activities including land and water sports, overnight trips, and horseback riding. ‘or booklet address MR. and MRS. C. F. TOWNE, Lasell Seminary 125 Woodiand Road, Auburndale, Mass. CAMP MESACOSA for Girls Corinth, New York 330-acre wonderland in the heart of the Adirondacks. Largelake. Swimming, canoe- ing, horseback riding, dramaties, athletics, dancing. Experienced counselors. For booklet address: Miss Laura Sanford Jesse FriringWilliams,M.D. University of Cincinnati, Teachers’ College Camps ALOHA Camps for Girls 3 distinct camps—ages 7-13, 14-17, 17-30 So. Fairlee, Vt., Fairlee, Vt., and Pike, N. H. } FUN FROLIC FRIENDSHIPS Swimming, canoeing, horseback riding, tennis, basketball, baseball, mountain climb- ing, dancing; handcrafts, dramatics, music; discussion of present day questions; all aim- ing toward fitting young women for their enlarged responsibilities. Vigilance for health and safety. 1600 girls a have been in these camps during the past 15 ; years and not a single serious accident. Mr. and Mrs. Gulick’s personal supervision. Reg- / ular season, July and August. 64-page illus- [ trated booklet. MRS. E, L. GULICK 264 Addington Road, Brookline, Mass. i Cincinnati, Ohio New York City HILLSVIEW oehc"'cfine of All Ages. 15 miles from Boston in the Blue Hill region. 85 acres of athletic fields, farm and woodland. Swimming, canoeing, motorboating, fishing, water baseball, tennis, volley ball, base- ball, basket ball and all other outdoor sports, Arts and crafts, music, dancing, pantomime, and indoor games. Hikes, trips to the ocean. Under the direction of Beacon School. Address MRS. ALTHEA H. ANDREW, ctor, 1440 Beacon Street, jrookline, Mass. EELA-WOOKET CAMPS Vexe v ric AA Senior and Junior Camps for Girls (under 20) Roxbury, Vt. *Midst the Green Hills far to northward, Turn they far unto the Northland, "Neath the pine trees on the hillside, There to spend the summer care-free, Stands a girls’ camp Teela-Wooket, Bathing in the limpid waters, Teela-Wooket, Summer home-land, Camping on the rugged mountains, Thence the pale-faced maidens journey Tossing balls and running races, Coming from the far off cities, In the fields of Teela-Wooket. A three hundred acre wonderland in the heart of the Green Mountains. Famous for its fine saddle horses, free riding, and thorough instruction in horsemanship. Write for a booklet with the stories and pictures of camp life at Teela-Wooket. MR. AND MRS. C. A. ROYS, 10 Bowdoin St., Cambridge, Mass. “OMBE, PA, 30 miles from Philadelphia, 60 miles from New York Children Three to Twelve Years SCIENTIFIC DIRECTIO covers diet, recreation, deportment, and adequate occupation diffe -ring for each individual child. SFY Y PERLE orators bia tactorwhen careful parents are seekiny satisfactory. results in Camp. References exchanged. Res ervations limited. ANNA WINDLE Paist, Directress. KONTESSORI FIRST BOARDING AND DAY SCHOOL, Phila., Pa. CAMP JUNALUSKA sround~ ‘camps in the | Sargent Camp for Girls South for girls. Lake Junaluska, N.C., in the “ Land of the Sky.” Delightful camp activities under careful Peterboro, New supervision. Girls from 17 states and 4 foreign coun- Dr. D. A. Sargent, oda 53 illustrated tries last season. [Illustrated booklet. Miss Ethel | catalog, address J. MeCoy, Virginia Intermont College, Bristol, Va. Can Secretary, 8 Everett Street, Cambridge, Mass. bd Ashburnham 4¢ for girls. An exclusive seashore Camp Watatic Mass. Camp Nehantic camp. Salt water bathing, fishing, On Lake Winnekeag, in the hills of northern Mas- | crabbing, land and _ water trips, athletic games sachusetts. Land and water sports, hikes, mcuntein and water sports. Experienced physical training trips, horseback riding. Limited pumber. conn director in charge at all times. Two months. illustrated story = camplife. MISSA. E.R BERTS. $165.00. Booklet. Mr. and Mrs. HARRY DAVISON, Director, 31 Holland Ave. . Westfield, — 5333 Rising Sun Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. CAMP WINNAHKEE A superior Camp for girls On Mallett’s Bay, Lake Champlain TheBeautiful “Inland Sea’’ of America Every convenience and comfort to insure a summer of health, safety and real enjoy- ment, among the pines of Vermont. Allland and water sports, horseback riding, motor- boating, dramatics, dancing, Handcrafts— jewelry, basketry, etc. Under supervision n pine grove on mountain lake. Bungalows, recreation hall, electric lights, hot and cold run- of experienced councilors. Trained Nurse. ning water. seraetes xine —_ - and — Booklet sent upon request sports. Careful supervision ays, handicra: MRS. WM. H. BROWN nature study. Until June | address Miss Rosalie . je See ts P. Sanderlin, 2818 27th St., N.W.,Washington, 307 W. 83rd St. New York City D.C. After June 21 Wells River, Vt. AT eee 20 CAMP WINNESHEWAUKA In white a Sinai ~ lv nite oth se shore. Best of everything for the best girls. Free horseback riding, water and field sports, handi- crafts, music and dancing under expert instruc- tors. Sponson and war canoes. Cozy screened bungalows, spring and artesian well water, modern plumbing. Satisfied parents and happy girls tell the story. Booklet. Karl 0. Balch, Resident Mgr., Dept. B, Lunenburg, Vt. Camp Cowasset North Falmouth, Mass., on Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod. The Seashore Camp for Girls. Safe canoeing, swimming and water sports. Free horseback riding, trained instructor, ten- nis, basketball, field contests. Seniors and Juniors. Good food, good fun and good care. Address Miss Beatrice A. Hunt, 20 Warren Ave. Marlboro, Mass. eb ees The Hanoum Camps THETFORD, VERMONT Hill Camp for girls under 15—Lake Camps for those over 15. Riding, swimming, canoeing, gypsy trips. Our girls go home strong in body, mentally alert, and inspired with the highest ideals. 12th year. Sep- arate camp for boys under 12. Illustrated booklet. Peete and ate . MH. Farnswort geile Teachers College, pp 4 Columbia University, A apascapeasss. & a Oy CAMP ABENA for Girls BELGRADE LAKES, MAINE Junior and Senior Groups Fourteenth Season Illustrated Booklet MISS HORTENSE HERSOM OAKSMERE Mamaroneck, New York ii SANDSTONE CAMPS Green Lake, Wis. Ninth season. 100 girls. = Camp, ages 8 to 12. Senior Camp, ages 13 ESTHER G. COCHRANE, 617 Byron St Cc wns the Northern L 5 passe enger Come ss fect over all— — speed 20 ay an hour. CAMPMYSTIC CONNECTICUT **Miss Jobe’s Camp for Girls” —*Phe salt water camp for girls. Half way betwee 7 New York and Boston. Life in the New E nglan¢ hills, woods, and by the sea. Unusual buildings, tent bungalows. Shower baths. Modern sanitat a Salt water sports, motorboating, swimming, bo canoeing, horseback riding, dancing, field athle — arts and crafts, dramatics. Camplife and trips und oo the personal direction of Miss Jobe who has a nine seasons of practical experience — r a n winter) in camping and exploration in the € Janac a Rockies. Care tor the safety and health of = camper. Catalog. MARY L. JOBE, A. M., F- R. G. S+» Room 64, 50 Morningside Drive, New York. ~ PONE DEES a i alas eta te Verein ners

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ee eg Pedimiine men meas Luther Gulick Camps On Sebago Lake, South Casco, Maine Sebago-Wohelo for Girls (13-18) Little Wohelo for Girls (7-13) Complete equipment for every phase of camp life. 200 acres of pine woods, four sand beaches (more _ a mile of shorefront). Five islands. Canoes, motor- boats, sailboats and big houseboat. Trips by canoe, trail and automobile to the ocean with surf bathing. Horseback rid- ing, crafts, pageants and camp plays. Unique combination of mountain, lake and ocean. One fee —no extras. Send for our illus- trated booklet. Mrs. Charlotte V. Gulick Hotel Hemenway Boston Mass. WINNISQUAM A Music and Vacation Camp on Lake Champlain. A Camp for young giris, unusual inthe character of its personnel. Many professional women among experienced councillors. Daily music-study without extra charge. All land and water sports—Dancing—Dramatics— Basketry. Miss HELEN C. VAN BUREN 427 Ellison St. Paterson, N. J. LIN- E KIN BAY CAMP for girls. Ideal is Camp on Coast of Maine near Boothbay Harbor. Boating of all kinds, land and water gas phy sical training, handicrefts and Arts, dancing. Camp fires and clam_ bakes. For booklet address Mr. and Mrs. G. R. Branch, 64 Fruit Street, Worcester, Mass. Camps HORSESHOE ON HORSESHOE LAKE There is where 3000 Acre Game, Fish and Forest Preserve WILDERNESS CAMP the boys of the of The Raymond Riordon School will pitch their tents from July 1st to Sept. Ist and your wonderful fellow-campers. Highland - - Raymond Riordon, President A camp in the Adirondack Wilds—no neighbors but forests, birds, game and fish— Yet—right on the New York Central to Montreal; in the Northcountry Wilderness, but civilization can be had with a snap of the finger, via rail, mail, telephone, telegraph, aeroplane—when you want it. A limited enrollment living on this private estate and guided by the same men who are the School organization the year round, Booklet and all the detail you wish. Write to The RAYMOND RIORDON SCHOOL Ulster County - - New York Stanley Kelley, Director cut boys. to be of service to you. Cuamsers, Director. HARPER’S BAZAR 119 West 40th Street Will Your Boy Win in Life— the Greatest of Games? Unless he is a good loser—unless he can keep his head when he wins—unless he has a keen eye and a steady nerve—No! Let him develop his resources thru the rigors of camp life, under the best conditions, with clean And if you are in doubt just where to find a camp, simply write me and I will be glad Address Kennetu N. SCHOOL BUREAU New York City CAMP GRANGE for Girls, 2&-7°%1 Under the direction of experienced Directress and Counselors. Three separate buildings. Ages, 5-16. a! sports, Ocean and still water bathing. 50 acres. Jatalog. MISS 0. B. HAGEDORN. 606 West 127th St., N. ¥. C. CAMP BEAU RIVAGE - - Portsmouth, N. H. French camp for girls. All sports by land and sea- Address until June ist, MISS WIMBERLY, Sec. 67 East 74th Street New York City THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN DANCING CAMP Outdoor Classes—Dancing, Swimming, tennis, horseback riding, mountain climbing. Senior Camp for girls, 14-18. co Junior Camp, 7-14. cape > ed al and Normal Departments. For booklet ad Portia Ma oll Swett, Principal, or Charlotte L. Perry, Manager, 1140 Grant Street, Denver, Colo. LAKE FAIRLEE | Jide aul For information address William W. Clendenin, A. M. Mt. Vernon, N. Y. 120 Vista PL., BOB WHITE For Children under fourteen. Farm and camp life. All sports, swimming, hikes, andcamptrips. Horses and ponies for rid- ingand driving. Mrs. A. S. Hayes, Ashland, Mass. CAMP SENEXIT A SMALL CAMP for YOUNG BOYS uth Woodstock, Conn. Write for sarcher information to J. O. Woop, Columbus Academy for Boys, Columbus. Ohio. SUMMER TUTORING SCHOOL Fer Girls. Preparation for college examinations. French conversation. Horseback riding, swimming, tennis, golf. Booklet on application to Miss MARY LOUISE MAROT, rincipal, Miss Howe and Miss Marot's School, Thompson, Conn. SEBAGO LAKE Camp Holton CHAIN, ME. Junior mp Senior Camp for Girls. Great variety ot activities. Canoe trips under experienced guides. CAMP WONPOSET "toNNecticuT A ngs gh for foun boys in the Berkshires. 100 — from N. City. Everything a boy can wish for. Write hes camp book. ROBERT D. TINDALE, 31 East 71st St., N. Y. C. Kyle (amp. For Boys, 6 to 16. Catskill Mts. Model Bungalows—no damp tents. All land and water sports. Military drill. Rifle range. Scout master. Anexpenditure of $25,000 has turned this ideal place into a paradise for boys. Camp physician and nurse. Dr. PAUL KYLE, Kyle School for Boys, N.Y. Irvington-on-Hudson, Box B, (22 miles from N. Y.) ETHEL RONALDSON, 2125 S St., Washington, D.C, ETHAN ALLEN CA MP North Hero, Vt. On Lake Champlain. For Boys from 8 to 1 Safety and Health of Boys Guaranteed. Fishing, Boating, Canoeing, Horseback Riding, Hiking and all Sportsand Games. Military, Naval and Physical Training. Woodcraft and Nature Study. Tutoring, if desired. Senior, Junior, and Midget Divehene- $225 for full term, July ist, Sept. 1st. Write for Catalogue No. 65. , Ethan Allen Training Camp Assn. Saugerties, N. Y. CAMP TOSEBO, Manistee, Michigan Under wine he management ot Tod a beminaty for ys, Wi 1. tunee, hiking, boating, swimming. Wonderland of woods and water. Un- usual one. yg tates. Overnight boat ride (direct) from cago Address NOBLE HILL, WOODSTOCK, ILL. BONNIE DUNE - - Cape Cod, Mass. All the fun “ camp, all the care ‘of home given a few boys (8-14 aie on breezy, sunny, healthy Cape Coc Mrs. Dwicut L. ROGERs, Dwicut L. RoGeErs, Jr., Directors, cos Road, Providence, Rhode Island CAMP ANTHONY WAYNE WELCOME LAKE, PIKE CO., PA. An ideal camp for boys in the woods. All athletics and aquatic sports. Write to ERVING M. FISH, HAWORTH, N. J. CAMP OCKLAWAHA For Boys and Girls at Bridgton, Maine. Ages from 10 to 14 years. Fishing, hiking, boating, canoeing, swimming and dancing. Reasonable rates. Two separate camps. Address No. 5 School St., Bridgton, Maine. Junior Plattsburg, Lake Champlain, N. Y. he camp where you can fly An all pide vacation eamp for sport and training- For Particuiais please address Dept. of Information. Junior Plattsburg, 9 East 45th Street, New York City KAMP KILL KARE 02 Lake C hamplain. 14th Season. Recreation Camp for boys, 8-16. Tutoring Camp for older boys. Two distinct camps separated by distance of five miles. RALPH ye PERRY, Director, 5 No. Fullerton Ave., Box R. Montelair, N. J. Old Orchard. A summer home and outing tor young boys and girls (4-8 years) in the country, one hour from New York C ity. Family life under a mother's care is utilized to develop the best in each child. Environment and equipment make possible a de- lightful summer experience June to September, inclusive. Mrs. ANNA B. NoYes, Leonia, New Jersey FIRST THINGS Development of character. body. Vigilance for safety. By CAMP IDLEWILD © Wigcrreaiee NH: Cultivation of good manners. Idealizing of purity of mind and EXPERIENCE COUNTS Twenty-eight years of camp life. Over eighteen hundred boys in camp. Not a single serious accident. Mr. Dick's personal supervision for twenty- eight years. Your boy deserves Address JOHN M. DICK, B. 7 miles of lake shore. Fleets of canoes and motor boats. Fine, big speed boat. the best. Idlewild provides it. 32-page I Mustrated Descriptive Booklet on request. D., 361 Exchange Building, Boston, Mass. KINEOWATHA Camps for Girls Camp Kineowatha | Kineowatha School RECREATION Camp Girls, 8-18 An unusual sum- TUTORING mer camp for a Older Girls select group of girls who seek ex- ceptional quality, refinements in liv- ing quarters, as well as ‘Real Camping” experience. Designed to meet the needs of older girls preparing for college entrance ex- aminations. All tutors endorsed by leading girls’ col- Most complete pro- | leges. gram of all sports and crafts. All possible safe- guards. Mature, experienced _ staff. Under personal di- | ton, Maine. Week- rection of Eliza-' end camping trips beth Bass, B.A. to Rangeleys, (late Dean of mountains, etc. Women, Colby Wonderful ath- College), Wil- letic field for ton, Maine. all sports. Mention which Mention tutoring camp and give needed and give rejerences, camp references. Irving B. McColl, Hotel McAlpin, New York Cily Occupies most complete equip- ment of private school at Farming- Camp Winnecook poys Lake Winnecook, Unity, Maine 18th season. Athletic fields for all Sports. Horseback riding, cano.ing, sailing, motor- cruising, Indian tribes, head dress for deeds of valor. Indian pageant. Archery, woodcraft, auto trips, hikes. Boy Scouts. Photography; Arts and Crafts. Tents and bungalows in pines a be take . == in eve oe ng. Send for booklet. HERBERT L “RAND, or Hemenway Road, Salem, Mass. CAMP CHAMPLAIN On Mallett’s Bay, Lake Champlain Between the Green and Adirondack Mountains A SUMMER outing for boys,where health and happiness are our ideals. Everything that growing boys enjoy doing, under care- ful supervision, including all sports—canoe- ing, swimming, hiking, horseback riding, baseball, basketball, etc. Ages 7 to 15. 27th Year Illustrated Booklet Upon Request. WM. H. BROWN, President Berkeley-Irving School 307 W. 83rd Street, ., NEW YORK CITY Camp Terra Alta Terra Alta, W. Va. Directed by The Commandant of the Staunton Military Academy. On Lake Terra Alta, main line B. & O. R. R., 130 miles southeast of Pittsburgh. 2800 ft. above sea level. Pure magnesian spring water. $15,000 equipment. Com- plete water system, shower baths. Natural gas lighting. Athletic and water sports, bowling, billiards, Military drill and target practice. High and Grammar school sub- jects. Music. 113 boys from 23 states last session. June 30 to August 25, $200. Until June 5, address The Commande it, Box 23F, Staunton, Va. After June sth, Camp Terra Alta, Terra Alta, W. Va. ASHEVILLE SCHOOL SUMMER CAMP An Ideal Recreation Resort for Boys July 6-August 30 In the Blue Ridge Mountains of western North Yarolina. Six miles west of Asheville. Altitude 2,300 feet. Attractive summer ciimate for Northern or Soutnern boys. Everything that oys Lb ASHEVILLE SCHOOL, near Asheville, N.C. 21

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New York Schools | New York Schools New York Schools Gove Sunes Naval Cavalry Artillery Woodcraft for Younger Boys June 30 to August 25th From sunrise to sunset the days at Culver are packed full of exhilarating and body building activity. Four distinct schools furnish the boy we the out-of-door life that most appe als to him Naval School—-minimum age, 14; Cavalry 14: Artillery—14; Wooderaft—12. Write for catalogue of school that interests you. Secretary's Aide, Culver, Indiana On Lake Mazinkuckee) Camp Wachusett FOR BOYS Lake Asquam, Holderness, N. H. Boat- 18th season. 7 buildings. ing, fishing, canoeing, swimming, water and land sports. New ath- letic field. Sports are planned according to the physical ability of each boy. Notents. FISHER huts. Music, games and a good- time every night. Tutoring if desired. References. Booklet. REV. LORIN WEBSTER, L. H. D Holderness School Plymouth. N. H. CAMP SOKOKIS FOR BOYS, Bridgton, Me. Asmall homecamp on Long Lake tn fo sthills of White Mts Juniors and Seniors ‘An Acre per Bo " Bungalows. Booklet. 1 ©w.- CW ILLIAMS, gggtutland Rd., Brook- ba. N. Y., Tel tbush 3774. THE RAYMOND RIORDON SCHOOL, With the glow of wonderful Autumn fading to even the more wonderful white of Winter. THIS IS AT HORSESHOE ON HORSESHOE LAK INDEED ITSELF A LARGE SLICE OF T “ And there for some twenty-five selected healthy girls, will be conducted a Girls’ Preparatory School of high grade, following established precedents, but at the same time giving girls the joys of a meal t * They will trap a little, shoot just enuf, fish for sport and the table. will ski, toboggan, skate, snowshoe; they will cook, sew, really housekeep; they will study, recite, sing, draw, dance —and live. "| Now only a real girl could qualify for such a school. * For further information— just twenty-five to be enrolled—write The Wilderness School i in the Adirondacks—-For Girls Enrollment Address: IN THE REAL NORTHCOUNTRY, REAL ADIRONDACKS. ife in the Wilderness. They Highland, Ulster County, New York | CLlrsuline cademy Aims: to provide for the pupil such mother-care, guidance and protection as she would receive in the fondest and best regulated home. Courses: We offer, with diploma, Academic, College Preparatory, Art and Music Courses. Rates: Board and Tuition, $500; clusive of extras, $800. Location: Delightfully and he: eee situated on the outskirts of Middle- town, New York—only two hours ride from New York City. In- Special Summer Recreation Session Address the Directress Ursuline Academy Middletown, New York The GARDNER SCHOOL for Girls 11 East 51st Street, New York City A thorough school with de- lightful home life. Fire- proof building. College pre- paratory, academic, secretarial and elective courses. Music, Riding, swimming, tennis, rhythmie dancing, outdoor athlet eas year. Address Miss Eltinge & Miss Masland Principals. SCOVILLE SCHOOL for GIRLS 2042 Fifth Ave., New York City Full preparatory and advanced studies, Art, Music, Interior Dec- oration, ramatic Expression, Languages and Practical Courses. Individual care and supervision. For catalogue address Miss Rosa B. Chisman WALLCOURT Miss Goldsmith's School for Girls. Colleze Preparatory and General Courses. Supervi. d Athletics. 18 acres. Catalog. Addre®s REG13- TRAR, Wallcourt School, Aurora-on-Cayuga, N. Y, Drew Seminary. ¢ The Carmel School for Girls on Lake Gleneida, Carmel, N.Y. 49 milesfrom N.Y.City. 600 feet elevation Homelike atmosphere. General and special courses. Athletics Moderate. Catalog. CLARENCE Paut McCLett om, President, Box 904, Carmel, North Sutton, N. H. 22nd CAMP > PENACOOK Season. A limited number ot boys (8-16 years). Land and water we under men of college breeding. Vigorous, manly qualities developed in the boys under their charge. For booklet address R. B. MATTERN, M. 5., Dobbs Ferry-on-Hudson, New Y ork. ‘ CAMP OSSIPEE under 16. In the White Mts. For Boys near Intervale, N. H. Conducted like a club— not for profit—by Headmaster of one of the oldest and best known private schools. ddress: BE. O. Guild, Sec’y, Box A-3, Peekskill, N.Y- CAMP * VEGA *A Paradise of ay Charleston, Ontario, Canada An island for boys 8 to 15 years. Fishing, hunt- ing, swimming, tennis, outdoor theatricals, canoe trips, carpentry. ‘Tutoring if desired Four motor boats. Large central building with sepa- rate sleeping bungalows. 12 hours from New York City. MRS. HENRY WARD BEECHER Room B, 121 E. 57th St., New York City New York, Long Island, Garden City. Cathedral School of Saint Mary A ScuHoot ror GirR-s, 10 miles from New College preparatory and general courses. Music, Art and Domestic Science. Catalogue on request. Miss MirtaM A, ByYTEL, Principal Hewlett School HEWLETT, LONG ISLAND Primary through College Preparatory outdoor sports Ali THE SCUDDER SCHOOL W. 72d St., and Riverside Drive, overlooking the Buttes. r. no graduate schoo! for young women. SECRETARIAL TRAINING with unusual fe ng OMENS peo TENC E AND HOME MANAGEMEN year course with diploma. Cc OMMUNITY SERVIC E AND AMERICANIZATION, a new combination of secretarial and social welfare training; acourse of great significance and tremendous appeal. Well equipped school, laboratories,gymnasium sw Ko etc, Address Miss H.B.Scudder,316 W, 72d St..N.Y.C FRENCH HOME SCHOOL Planned exclusively for girls wishing to pursue special studies in New York. Ex- ceptional opportunity to acquire fluent French. Every advantage of the + ga Tenth year. Announcement on request MISS MACINTYRE or MME. TALGUEN Suite B, 320 West 107th St., New York City (Riverside Dri ive) HEALTH HOME FOR CHILDREN Away from the dangers of city streets. Propes diet, scientific calisthenics and breathing exercises. Training in hygiene, temper and discipline. Home atmosphere, mother's care. Happy healthy chil- dren. Moderate rates. JOHN a, B ae st, Director, Garnerville, near Haverstraw, N. THE CHILDREN’S HOUSE An all-the-vear Home School for boys and girls; modern buildings, country estate. Fine, heaith- = De - Montessori training. Summer Send for catalog Mrs) I Ka B. HEBBARD, Principal, Tarrytown-on-Hudson,N. Y. CAMP KATAHDIN | FOREST LAKE, MAINE J For Boys 2ist Season Not just for an outing but a camp wita ideals Real camp life in the woods, on the rivers and lakes of Maine. Playing and athletic fields. Horse- back riding. Mountain trips. Water ports. Games. Log cabin: sandtents. Safety, health anda good good time. Address GEORGE £. PIKE B. S. ss BEARCE, Duxbury, Mass. MONTESSORI THE Playground, music, rhythmic work. French, modelling, car- pentry, afternoon activi- ties optional. Hot lunch- years. SCHOOL - Teachers’ Training Ch (Mrs.) A. RENO MARQULIES, 673 West End Ave. ew York RECREATION-AFTER-SCHOOL An Outdoor Group for Your Giel Healthfu, organised play, under supervision of | specially trained graduate leaders—every afternoon Correspondence invited. TNER, A. B., Director Tel. Columbus 4133 ony ull PANNE Ss RAT Neie Majestic, New York. Residence | in spew Bork F DENTS MRS. HENRY i ARRISON BOSWELL 344 West 84th Street, Chaperonage Prospectus on Request For children 2% to 10 | THE SEMPLE SCHOOL For Girls. A city School with Country Advantages. Opposite Central Park. Boarding and Day = Special and Finishing courses. Languages, Musie an. Oratiatc Art. Social life. Ouitdoot Recreation ‘“trs. + arrington Semple, Principal. 241 Central Pure \V2s_ 20x B, New York City. MISS MARY SCHOONMAKER’S School for Girls 345 West End Ave., near 77th St.. New York Elementary and Academic Courses. Diploma endorsed by University of the State of New York’ “Correct English and How to Use It’’ foundation work in every clas3 and snbject. Professional Schools Be An Expert Dress Designer | Women—Girls, 15 or over arlors in their homes. own family apparel. Sample lessons free. most fascinating. Write immediately. FRANKLIN INSTITUTE, Dept. P858 N.Y. CONN. FROEBEL NORMAL Kindergarten | ary Train- ing School. Academic, ertemmean "primary and playground courses. Boarding and day school. Big opportunities for our graduates. State certifi- eate. 22nd year. Booklets. Address MARY C MILLA, Principal, 185 West Ave., Bridgeport, Conn. ROGERS-OVERTON STUDIOS 131 West 77th Street New York City Voice, Piano, Expression, French, English, Art Appreciation, Operas, Concerts, Theatres. Well- chaperoned home for young women. Open year round. Send for circular. INSTITUTE OF MUSICAL ART o f the CITY OF NEW YORK | An endowed school. Frank Damrosch, Director, Provides a thorough and com ae musical education in all encase an highest advantag Address SECRETARY, 120 "Claremont Ave., N. ¥.C, ° Posse Normal School of Gymnastics 32nd year. New building. Courses ot one, two and three years esent conditions created great «ae- mand for our graduates. Courses in Medical Gym- nastics and Playgrounds. Summer Camp. Apoly to THE SECRETARY, 779 Beacon St. Boston, The Sargent School ‘or, Physical Established 1881 Address for booklet Dr. D. A. SARGENT, Cambridge, Mass, Learn Dress Design- b y Every mother should make her | Work | | Dssining ‘Schoal™ FOR GIRLS WE offer, with diploma, Aca- demic, College Prepara- tory, Art, Music, Dramatic, Secretarial and Homemaking Courses. Certificates Typing, } keeping, ticulture. are given for Stenography, Book- Red Cross and Hor- Students may enter regular courses or, with parents’ aoererd, may specialize as desir In beautiful natin 3° miles from New York. Write for Year Book. Address Ossining-on-Hudson New York. CLARA C. FULLER, Principal Martha J. Naramere, Associate Principal Why 1 Waste a yoo 2 Spene it on the Hudson 45 minutes fror Fift Avenue doing interesting work. Ideal sur- roundings for good work and real recreation. Unique opp rtunities in Secretarial course, Domestic Science, Music, Art, Expression, Motor Mechanics and Driy ving, Social Dancing. Many other courses. Excellent tutoring. For catalog of summer or ogres winter school, ad- dress the Secretary, Box _ MISS MASON’S sUNMaR SCHOOL For Girls and Women. arrytown-on-Hudson, N.Y. aksmere MRS. MERRILL’S SCHOOL for GIRLS | | ORIENTA POINT MAMARONECK, NEW YORK BRANTWOOD HALL Lawrence Park, Bronxville, New York A country school for girls. Resi- dent and day pupils. College Preparation and general courses. UTNAM HALL Vassar Preparatory School Special two year course for High School graduates. Music, Art and Domestic Science. Ten- nis, Horseback riding. Military drill under a cap- tain detailed from the Armory. Sleeping Porches. } } Address ELLEN C. BARTLETT, A.B., Principal, Box 803, Poughkeepsie, New York. H Westchester County, New York Highland Manor A country boarding school forgirls on picturesque estate near New York City. Liberal Arts, College Preparatory, Post-graduate, Secretarial and Home-making. Intermediate and Primary, Out- door life. Non-sectarian. For catalog address Eugene H. Lehman, Dir., Box B, 216 W. 100th St, N.Y.City. Russell Sage College Founded by Mrs. Russell Sage in connection with Emma Willard School A School of Practical Arts Designed for the higher education of women, particularly on vocational and professiona lines. Secretarial Work, Household Boonem- ics and Industria! B.A. and B.S. degree Ad Secretary RUSSELL SAGECOLLEGE, TROY, NEW YORK

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a ane ey

A. New and Larger

Having outgrown its present quarters at Tarrytown-on-Hudson, the Knox School for || Girls will open its fifteenth year in a new || home on Otsego Lake, Cooperstown, N. Y. | Here in the beautiful foot hills of the | Adirondacks, within an afternoon’s ride of | New York City, the school will have room | for growth at the same time preserving its || distinct and individual character. The advantages of the new site provide A School of American Ideals in a

for The KNOX SCHOOL The building to be occupied b; the Knox 2 Bh a, * | i Home & for greater space and freedom out of doors. There are golf links along the shore of the lake, a new gymnasium, six tennis courts, a hockey field, ice skating and winter sports. Camping, boating and horseback riding are additional features. Address all requests for information (until Sept. 1 1920) to Mrs. E. Russell Houghton, Principal, THE KNOX SCHOOL, Tarry- town-on-Hudson, N. Y. Country of American Traditions The Lake showing Country Club which will be at use of the school.

Features Emphasized : Strong College Preparatory Course. Advanced Courses in Literature. Modern Languages, History and ‘onomics. Vocational Courses. Domestic Science, Secretarial “ourse. Interior Decoration. Creative work in Literature, Art, Music and the Drama. Athletics and Sports. Rhythmic Dancing, under Trained Directors.

’ 47052 ~ e al . . j . New Jersey Schools Pennsylvania Schools | Pennsylvania Schools | Pennsylvania Schools : : ALA. 2 aa 5 2S \ aS) Dwight School] | a4 ce, < gS od For Girls Englewood. New Jersey 2 te Suburban to New york City. Combiuing vest features of College Preparatory and Finishing = School. Special advantages for post-graduate = work. Domestic Arts and Sciences. Spacious = | 2 4 grounds. Tennis. Riding. he = " J - Miss Creighton and Miss Farrar, Principals. ‘ i Address Box 617 - 5 . ' 3 | = OGONTZ SCHOOL = Founded 1850 = } | i | A country school for girls in the 4 Lt i ball Rydal Hills. 25 minutes from Phil- = s ° adelphia, on the New York line + ea of the hy nae ny — em = Catalog describing and illustrat- , Old = . ing new buildings sent on request. For Beye and girl s, from 4 tos years. & mother = e - RYDAL, Junior Department. care an sma group insure ome ite an Jn- ’ | dividual attention. Moderate rates, Boarding = e } | MISS ABBY A. SUTHERLAND, Prin. and Day, For booklet write to E 3 rs e } Ogontz School, Penna. Mrs. Anna G. Noyes, Leonia, N. J. Fs an KENT PLACE Semrti 2: |B 20 miles from N. Y. = © A Country School for Girls = : ‘lhe ns College Preparatory and Academic Courses. = Mrs. Sarah Woodman Paul} i ( The GRADUA ] f SCHO OL In suburbs—city advantages 8 miles distant. Col- Miss Anna S. Woodman (Principals. e | lege breeretion. fn | generat ——/_ ot uae. : ’ : Art. Primary Throug gh School. ding. Miss Beard Ss School for Girls 2 the MARY LYON ( HOOL BQ Separate house for younger girls. Catalog and A country school. 13 i from — t gyro gwd 2 i views. lege preparatory, special courses. Music, Art, Do- ily Mil stic Science. Superv sical w ' : Emily Milton Cowles, A.B., Head of School ingymnasiunend held Catatoronreqnest. Address z O you happen to be one of that big group of high school graduates who . Oak Lane, Phila., Pa. LUCIE C. BEARD, Orange, New Jersey 2 so college one —— going to college? Then you wa she —_ ’ J = ascinating school life, stimulating environment, a host of new friends an ST. MARY’S HALL FOR GIRLS z such courses as Homermaking, Psychology, Literature, Languages, Music and e e General, College Preparatory and Secretarial = Secretarial. inden a eminary Courses. Two years Post-Graduate Work. Music, = College preparation and general courses at Mary Lyon School. Girls 11-14 A girls’ school since 1746. Academic, College Pre- rt, Domestic science. Gymnasium, Outdoor Sports = at Seven Gables; those 6-11 at Hillcrest. Each with its own separate equipment. paratory and Special Courses. Separate Junior De- and Riding. MRS. FEARNLEY, Principal, es : . Gymnasium. Catalog. 4 Box 418 Burlington, New Jersey. Visitors are cordially welcome. partment ymnasi alog Centenary Collegiate Institute A,£it!, school m 2 Le eT aR REV. F. W. STENGEL, Prin. Box 122, Lititz, Pa. ni ry 0 egia ns e beautiful country = ndica atalog desired. nD New Y y 3; = x re ° ° BO wees Sabo Lath ear. 5 modern buildings: | |Eal MR. & MRS. H.M. CRIST, Principals, Box 1510, Swarthmore, Pa. TKE-SANATORIUM SCH ool, ete. Sens a § ‘ ss. College = A select schoo] and sanatorium combined for the treatment pe » ¢ c. Sensible regulations and dress. ollege instruction and personal care of boys suffering from all forms k preparatory certificates. General and special courses a of f paraiznio, epinel allcetions "und all dafeun ; Pres.. Box 40: Hackettstown: Node” | HIGHLAND HALL. 4. school for giris, in resi- | tralzing. ‘The only school of fee kind. Bighost sadoresmssts, : — : — “on * dential town 1,000 feet above | DEVON MANOR klet.. , — . ’ * : . . b sea level, on main line of Pennsylvania Railroad. CLAUDIA M: REDD, Principal LANSDOWNE, PA. R The Fisk Teachers Agencies College Preparatory, General ped Post Graduate In Valley Forge region, 16 miles from Phila. offer unparalleled service. Our extensive experience Courses. ‘ollege prep. Vocational work, Domestic Arts, ‘ and equipment make such service possible. Nearly Miss ELLEN C. KEATES, A B., Principal, Secretarial. Social Service, Art, Music. Edith | RYDAL, The Junior Department of the Ogontz ry private s : employed ” ‘ s $ 5 svorr Mi 9" ; Se q 2 Se iirls § teachers on our recommendation. " _— Hollidaysburg, Beans. } Rn ay ee nny ae Oe SERN Oren me to 14. A teacher x ype pereneety, wae has had unusual success in training little girls, is in NEW YORK OFFICE, 225 FIFTH AVENUE charge. =e is limited. Write for catalog ai MIss ABBY A. SUTHERLAND. Pennsylvania Schools DARLINGTON SEMINARY MISS SAYWARD’S SCHOOL Rydal, Montgomery, Co., Pa. PENN HALL. School for Giris. College Prepara peamaytrama'e ay pg py ts os OVEEDEOCS just, outside of Phila. Sr as Mee a “Y Giana . tory, Modern Language and Special! Music, Expression, Secretarial, Business and House- i. pon A ay M sas Menken, 6 i b:] b 0 p t bh 0 Tt p e gD a n 0 rt fatty ach'yoR spent at Atiae City. Wank | tee oe ae aon chasenerss, Bameste Scianee, Outdoor sports; Catal “Aas on alg 1. May © ity. EF. . ” x . Pr, Pa. 3 Say we Princ re a. ‘ continues without interruption. New gymnasium and | Miss S. Janet Sayward, Principal, Overbrook, Pa Fountain Hill, Bethlehem, Pennsylvania r Jig ey or ager ney od ea Preparation for college or for life. Two-year “os a A. M., Prin., Box K. Chambersberg, Penna. Box 425 | finishing course for High Seheol sepdueses. NSON SEMINARY “ } ] ° h Secretarial Work. Expression, Music Preparation for ollere, « speciat. Business, | BEECHWOOD, jenkintown,Ps.| The Baldwin Schoo Tem IF nr omg My PES Piano, Voice, Violi Art, Crafts, Expression s Sint : —ahts : Swimming pool, 2 gymnasiums. Coedurational, | “School for practical training of young Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania. Outdoor sports. Junior Dept. Swimming pool. sips caormitories, Homelike atmosphere. Rates | women. College Departments, Music,| 4 Country nition vonmest JouNsox, A.B, | poOwet Box O, Williamsport Pas ON | Art, Domestic Science, etc. Catalog. ; Head of school.” +| CLAUDE N. WYANT, Principal, Box 246 t 23

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Boys’ Schools | Sore Carolina Military & Naval Academy the Mountains of North Carolina. Pre- pares for college and life. National patronage. One of the best equipped Military Schools in the South. MAJOR B. A. TALBOT Superintendent HENDERSONVILLE, N. C. me sr sn. a ae UR STUYVESANT Warrenton, Virginia A HOME SCHOOL FOR BOYS LOCATION:— Foothills of the Blue Ridge. Sixty miles south of Washington. High Alti tude. Beautiful Scenery. : 3 EQUIPMENT Ninety-six acres. New Build- Track, ings. Open air (,ymnasium. ATHLETICS Football, Baseball, Riding, Fox Hunting. SCHOLARSHIP: Experienced Teachers Di rected Study. Small Classes. Thorough preparation for all colleges. lerms:—$ 1000. Send for C EDWIN B. KING, M Ten atalog. A. (Yale), Headmaster Warrenton, Va, TENNESSEE MILITARY INSTITUTE The South's Best Known School Cadets last term from 37 states Classed as HONOR SCHOOL by Southern Commission on Accredited Sc 2 For catalogue address COL Boys’ Schools Boys’ Schools Boys’ Schools CASCADILLA College Preparatory School for Boys Thorough preparation for college or business life. Individual attention Athletics. Gymnasium. Recreation building on Lake Cayuga. Navy outfit for the well-known school crew Military drill Enroliment 125. Healthfully located above Ithaca and i ake Cayuga. Summer School specializing in Re paration for University Entrance Examinations Catalogs. A. M. DrumMMonb, M.A., Director. Box 114, Ithaca, New York. THE Princeton Tutoring School “WE TUTOR BUT DO NOT CRAM” Prepare for June and Sept. Entrance Exam- inations all Colleges. School open throughout year. Admissions at any time provided we feel the re- quired subjects may be thoroughly reviewed in time for examinations. For booklet, terms and any de- tails, address JOHN G, HUN, Ph.D., PRINCETON, N. J. MANLIUS St. John's School. Manlius develops its boys according to common sense principles, successfully joining the theoretic ral with the practical Preparation for college and busi- ness and superior military training. Summer Camp in Adirondacks. Brig.-Gen. Wm. Verbeck, Pres. Box 124, anlius, New York AWLIN SCHOOL FOR BOYS Dr. Frederick L. Gamage. Headmast Pawling New York THE STONE SCHOOL - Cornwall-on-Hudson, N.Y. Healthful and invigorating location, five miles from est Point. Boys 9 to 19. Prepares for college or business. One teacher to 6 boys. All sports under supervision. Swimming pool. Catalog. VAN E. DUERR, Headmaster Box 31 Massee Country School. Individual attention. Rapid preparation tor college. Two years work in one. 15 miles from New York, New gymnasium and dormitories. All sports Militar y training. Junior slepartment for younger boys 7 years up. Unusual- ly successful record Addre W. W. MASS3EE, Ph.D., Box 700, Bronxville, N ST, JOHN’S MILITARY SCHOOL Special opportunities for quick college preparation. Parental discipline Gymnasium, swimming pool Athletic feld, Manly sports encouraged. Junior Hall, age ni arateschool for boys 8 r 14. Catalogue. RANNEY, A. M., Ph » Principe, Gutelanan Hudson, New York. PEEKSKILL MILITARY ACADEMY 88th year. Army Officers. R. O. T. C. Separate Junior School, boys 7-13. Address The Principals, Peekskill, N.Y MOUNT PLEASANT SCHOOLS For over one hundred years a refined school home for boys of all ages. Practical military training with field work. College and business preparation. Physic altraining and athletic sports. e E av. Bos 62 sane Sweetwater, ‘enn. PO. Box 523. Ossining-on-the- Hudson, Ne” PINEHURST SCHQOL For Bese Repton School for Young Boys hurst Cc my cat llege preparatory ing and country day school. Address R C. Platt, Act. Headmaster, for information ourse of six classes. Board Outdoor sports and life A homelike where the boy individual training sired. Catalog arrytown-on-Hudson, N. Y. country boarding and day school, of 8 to 14 receive; a thorough Week-ends at home if de- BLUE RIDGE SCHOOL FOR BOYS A school with a high moral standard, where strong, virile manhood is developed. Limited enroll- ment—one tone her to : ~~ ay drill Special care of younger boys. ven all the year Modgrate € hares Catalog. J, R SANDIFER, eadmaster, Hendersonville, N. C. The Clark School for Concentration 72d St. and West End Ave., New York City For Boys and Girls. Boarding and day pupils; prepares for any college. An intensive system of ey postr ve — Enrollments may be made now. A here Records Are Made. BOYS’ COUNTRY SCHOOL. Preston Park, Pa. Incorporated The Kentucky Military Institute, scnoct witha winter Home in Florida 5th year Rated Honor Se wk by U.S. War ay Senior and Junior R. O Early registration necessary Large ae ist last year. Address THE REGISTRAR for catalog, Lyndon, Ky : Kiskiminetas School for Boys On wooded highland overlooking Kiskiminetas River. 200 acres. Special preparation for college and technical schools. Small classes. High athletic spirit. WILSON, JR., President, Kiskiminetas Springs School, Box 808, Saltsburg, Pa. The Massanutten Military Academy, Box 23, Woodstock, Va Preparatory Senool for bere. Healthful location, beauthul Shenandoah Valley. 100 miles from Washington. Prepares for college and business. Music, efhietics. New $25,000 Dining Hall and Dormitory. Limited to 100 boys. $475. Address HowakpD J. BENcHOFF, A. M., Headmaster THE WHITE HOUSE Lng oy June 29, 1916 Paare to ex preas my admira- tion for BINGHAN TARY 3 CHOOL i that I have en ot Mt directly soc inn S made me haves e greatest confidence ip it oO. Asheville, N. (Signed) Woodrow Wilson. RANDOLPH-MACON ACADEMY (Military) A branch of the Randolph-Macon System. In the It gives me great Valley of Virginia. Equipment cost $100,000. Pre- res tor College or Scientific Schools. Military ‘raining. Gymnasium and Athletics. $400. 29th ear opens September 2ist. Address CuHas. L. 1ELTON,A.M.. Principal, Box 472, Front Royal.Va. PORTER MILITARY ACADEMY Establishedin 1867. Anational school. 250boysfrom 25 states and 4 foreign countries. Officer detailed from U.S. Army. Infantry, Artillery and Nava equipment. Thorough preparation for college or business. Send for catalog. Rev.WaALTER MITCHELL, D.b., South Carolina, “harleston, Box H TOME SCHOOL NATIONAL BOARDING SCHOOL FOR BOYS PORT DEPOSIT, - MARYLAND Murray Peabody Brush, Ph.D., Director FLORIDA Military and Naval Academy overlooks St. John’s River, 28 miles south of Jack- sonville. 250 acres, golf course. All charges from $585 to $635. Address Col. George W. Hulvey, Magnolia Springs, F' lorida. HARRISBURG ACADEMY | Senior and Junior departments. Modern, individ- ual Tt in pe noe preparatory and general courses. New fireproof buildings with large sunny rooms. Cottage dormitory system. Athletic field. Moderate rates. ARTHU . BROWN, Head- master, Box 8, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. CHAUNCY HALL SCHOOL Fstablished 1828. -repares boys ex- Aatvoly OF TE for MASSAC HUSETTS INSTITUTE CHNOLOGY and other seientific schools. Every teac her a specialist. ; FRANKLIN T. KURT, Principal. Mass.. 550 Boylston St. (Copley Sq.) WILLISTON —}ox'ioes FOR BOYS Preparatory for college or scientific school. Directed _ and play. Junior School for boys from 16 to Boston. A distinct school in its own building. Address ARCHIBALD V. GALBRAITH, Principa’ Box H. Eastham pton, Mass, 24 Franklin | and Marshall Academy Lancaster, led 1787 Prepares boys ‘tor all colleges and coal Schools. Old School on basis allowing moderate terms. Liter- ature of interest to college preparatory a? Address Box 108, E. M. Hartman, A.M., in ST. LUKE’S SSHOOL Wayne (main line P. R. R. Healthful location, homelike aL Mental and physical instruction, high moral influence makes unusual appeal to pose & and boys. Pre- ares for college or bus ‘harles Henry A.M., Headmaster Bellefonte Academy Prepares boys for college or business. In foothills of Alleghenies. 11 teachers. All athletics. Gym- nasium. Swimming pool. Limited to 100. Catalog. Jas. B. Hughes, A. M., Headmaster, Bellefonte. Pa. NAZARETH HALL MILITARY ACADEMY Box 50, Nazareth, Pa, Founded 1743 A military academy for boys. College prepara- tory and business courses. Senior, Intermediate and Junior Departments. Vigorous athletic and mili- tary life. Address the Rev. A. D. Thaeler, D.D., Principal. Swarthmore Preparatory School For Boys. Prepares for college and equips for chosen careers. Recreation balanced witn study. Strong, sep- arate Junior Department. Summer session. Parents and boys invited to call. A. H. TOMLINSON, Headmasler, Rox 24 Swarthmore, Pa. Pp Strout, The Mercersburg Academy FOR BOYS Mercersburg, Pa. Send for catalogue to Wen. Mane irvine, Ph... LL..D., Headmaster, Box 158 PENNSYLVANIA MILITARY COLLEGE Trains for leadership. Degrees granted in Civil Engineering, Chemistry, Commerce and Finance. Preparatory school for boys of 12 and upwards. Infantry, Cavalry and Aviation. Unusual! facilities for sports. Vacancies April 6th. Immediate appli- cation necessary. CoL. CHAs. E. Hyatt, Box 525, Chester. Pa. Bethle- Bethlehem Preparatory School fi." 1600 boys prepared for leading universities in 42 years. Extensive grounds. Gymnasium, swim- ming pool, athletic fields. Summer session. Sepa- rate Junior School new building. JoHN H. TuGGEY, M.A., Headmaster. HOLDERNESS SCHOOL od Boys. pe e ig ngs, 20 ai pares for Colleges and Technical Rd gy f rank with moderate rate. Gym All winter sports. 4 lst year. Rev. LORIN WEBSTER, L.H.D., Rector, Plymouth, N. H. 0 Skating. Yd Liberally endowed school for Blair Academy boys qualified to make use of unusualopp rtunities.’General education and pre) - aration for college or technical school. Separate Junior School. Gymnasium. 100 acres, lake. A visit invited. _JOHN C. SHARPE, LL. eescmanter NEW Jersey, Blairstewn, Box The Rutgers Preparatory School fora; college. mple resources, 153rd year. Spec ializes also in e duce ating boys 10 to 14, Give your boy's age og receive full information. Rate $800. WILLIAM P. Ketty, Headmaster 4 College Ave., New Brunswick, New Jersey. repares Wenonah Military Academy 12 miles from Philadelphia. Prepares for college or business. 5 Army Officer de pales. Special School for Juniars. Catalog. Dr. H. LoreENcE, President, Major ~ LAYTON A, iemmen Supt., Box 442, Wenonah, Newton ae ay A military country school. Boys 10 to 16 preferred. 2 hours from > City. Beautiful, high, healthful location. Thorough pow na for college or business. Home care. discipline kind but firm. Horses and ponies for boys’ use. Gymna- sium. All sports. Moderate rates. Catalog. PHILIP 5S. WILSON, A.M., Principal, Box H, Newton, N. J. PEDDIE Athletic sports. 60-acre campus. Prepares for college and business hfe. Moderate rates. Lower School for boys from 11 to 14. Roger W. Swetiand, Headmaster, Box 4-S, Hightstown,N.J. THE PENNINGTON SCHOOL Prepares for College, Technical Schools or Busi- ness. Gymnasium. Strong faculty. Swimming pool, all athletics. Junior school for boys 9 to 1% FRANK MACDANIEL, D.D., Headmaster. Box 120, Pennington, N FREEHOLD MILITARY SCHOOL For 90 select young boys. Just enough of the Military training to inculcate habits of obedience, promptness, order- liness and self reliance. Study and play carefully supervised. One teacher to 10 boys “The school with the personal touch.”” MaAJoR CHARLES M. DUNCAN, Box 416, Freehold, N. J. KEEWATIN ACADEMY An outdoor tutorial school. Winter term in Florida. Optional. Entirely separate school for girls. Address, Secretary, VILLA PARK, ILLINOIS Northwestern Military _and Naval Academy 70 milesfrom Chicago College prep; thoro military and naval instruction. New fireproof building. Fixed price covers all expenses. Personal visit urged. Address R_ P. Davidson, Supt., Lake Geneva, Wis. Lake Forest Academy For Boys, College Preparatory. Non-military Regime. Honor ideals. te distinctly educational. Prep- aration for admission to any university. Swimming pool, all athletics. ‘Golf. (1 hour north of Chicago.) Wayne , Box [41, Lake Forest, ll. MIAMI MILITARY INSTI Colleziate Courses Preparation for Government Academy, Higher ¢ ‘olleges, L niversities or Business. Military Training under U fMficers, Catalog. Orvan Graff Brown. M. A., Presi hon Reed M. Brown, A-D.. Ph.D, Headmaster; S. Kennedy Brown, A.B., Regis- trar, Box 94, Germantown, Ohio. St. John’s Military Academy * Episcopal. The American Rugby. Early a > plication is imperative to secure admission }. AN the coming school year opening Se rt. 24th. Box 15D, Delafield, Waukesha Co., Wis. ‘ PAGE MILITARY ACADEMY A big school for little boys. Open all the or semi-fireproof buildings; no high school boys. everything adapted to meet the needs of the. intule folks. Ask forcatalogue. Address ROBERT A. GIBBs, Headmaster, Page Military Academy, R. F. D. No. 7, Box 984, Los Angeles, California. Kemper Military School, Boonville, Mo. Tevhyeer opens > theta tn Rated an ‘Honor School” y U. S. War Dept. High scholastic standards. aa manual training chall comparison with best in America Junior and Senior R. O. T. C. Supervised athletics. For catalog address CoL. T. A. JOHNSTON, 752 Third St. * Culver Military Academy The catalog describes the famous Culver military system, the 500-acrecampus on Lake Maxinkuckee, the superb array of buildings. Send for a copy. Applications should be filed now to insure entrance in 1920 and 1921. THE SECRETARY, Culver, Ind. Powder Point School Will understand your boy and teach him to understand himself. Ralph K. Bearce, A.M., Headmaster, 54 King Caesar Road, Duxbury, Mass. DEERFIELD ACADEMY For the wholesome development of the boy's in- dividuality. Modern equipment, college prepar- atory and special courses. All athletics. Endowed. Send for views and year book. Address 9 Albany Road, Deerfield, Mass. ili Thorough scholastic Stamford Military Academy and military train- ing, fostering the intellectual, physical, and moral needs of developing boys. Personal instruction. Small classes. Manly sports encouraged. Extensive equipment. Located on high »oint, bordering Long Island Sound. WALTER D. GERKEN, A. M., Prin- eipal, Stamford, Conn. WORCESTER ACADEMY 250 Boys Rates $850-$1000 Strictly paratory for college or engineering school. Register early and avoid he awe For catalog address the Registrar, G urch, M.A Samuel F. Holmes, M.A., Principal, W orcester, For the all-around edu- cation of manly boys RIGGS SCHOOL where boys are on their ‘‘ow OPEN ALL THE YEAR A boarding school for boys. All the branches of acientific aerioulturearet taught by college graduates—specialists in their line. 175 acre farm operated by the boys Dairy, Poultry, Swine, Horses, Gardening, Field Crops. Each boy may have his own project. Academic and agricultural training receive equal attention. Boys, when graduated from four year course, capable of earning their own living, or Comat | college. aseball, Football, Basket- ball, Trap- ae Cc Janoeing, Swimming and Skating. ze eo pe $300. pal the twelve months. 5 extra for a ge preparator 01 Boys admitied from 13 to -§ +f 7 Write for Booklet. | F. B. RIGGS, Headmaster, Lakeville, Conn. —-MILFORD- A College Preparatory School FORMERLY THE ROSENBAUM SCHOOL Milford, Conn. 9 miles from New Haven on the main line toNew York The needs of each boy are analyzed and met. Thoro training for college examinations. Small classes and individual instruction. Country life, supervised athletics. Our plan limits the number of boys we can accept each year. Tell us your needs and we will send you an outline plan of work, giving time required, cost, etc., for fitting for college. Booklet on request, SAMUEL B. ROSENBAUM, Prin. Milford, Conn. ROXBURY A School for the Individual Boys enter any time during the year. Masters former university faculty men. athletics except foot! li, Excellent equipment, personal attention and small classes make school exvensive. Write for illustrated. booklet. Roxb uay School, Inc. Cheshire, Co W.L. Ferris, B. A-. Headmaster FARMINGTON, MAINE. ABBOTT SCHOOL 40 BOYS RATE $1200 Fal term opens September 29th. Emphasizesthealth. happiness, achievement. Catalog on request. Western Schools The BISHOP’S SCHOOL Upon the Scripp's Foundation For Girls La Jolla, California Upper and Lower Schools Educational and social training equal to that of Eastern Schools. A faculty representative of Eastern Colleges. The advantages of the healthiest climate in the world. The pupil goes to school in perpetual sunshine—sleeps, plays, exercises (at tennis, basket ball, riding, swim- ming, etc.) and studies out of doors the year round. Sixteen miles from Hotel del Coronado. Convenient for parents wishing to spend the winter in California. Write for booklet. Right Rev. Joseph H. Johnson, President Marguerite Barton, M.A., Headmistress nn. FRANCES SHIMER SCHOOL For Girls and Vous ee. 2 yours College, Econom Certificate privileges. Ca Rev. Wm, P. MeKee, Dean, Box ro Mt. Carroll, Ill. THE RAJA YOGA SCHOOL Founded by Katherine Tingley in 1900. A com- lete, balanced education. Separate buildings for ys and — | —— admitted at any time. (Unsectarian. DR. GER RUDE. VAN PELT, Secretary Point Lorza, California LENOX HALL A real Eastern School in the heart of the Middle . Enroliment and aioe. oe essential. Tuition $900. Cc satalogue- Mrs. LOUISE THOMAS, Principal, Box 1024, Geiversiay City, Missouri. for Young Women. Ei:ndenwood College Four year courses con- ferring B. A. and B.S. degrees. Two year Junior col- lege course confers A. A. degree. Exceptional voca- tional home economics, secretarial and other courses. Degree courses in music. For catalog address J. L Roemer, D. D., President. Box C-1, St. Charles, Mo. prc en re THE ANNA HEAD SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Primary, Grammar and High School. Accredited East or West. Outdoor study and school rooms Gymnasium, tennis, basketball, swimming pool, ete. 33rd year opens September For catalog write Miss MARY E. WILSON, Principal, 2554 Channing Way, Berkeley, California Miss White’s School for Girls Boarding and Day Departments. Opens Sep- —— 15, 1920. For catalogue and information 8S MARY JOSEPHINE WHITE, A. B., A. ot Princ = 4146 Lindell Boulevard Louis, Mo WOLCOTT SCHOOL The West’s Leading School for Girls Teachers, Equipment, Courses, Standards, Girls, All First Class. Address for Illustrated Catalogue or Information, Dr. J. 3. Rices, Principal, 1408 Marion Street. Denver. Colo. (Backus School for Girls). 35th Oak Hall year. College Preparatory _and General courses. Strong Music department. Lan- guages under native teachers. Gymnasium, tennis, swimming, horseback riding. For booklet address ROYAL A. MOORE, A.M., a ncipal, 578-590 Holly Avenue, St. Paul, Minneso’

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Southern Schools a a - ¢ In the Allegany Mountains. schedule. College prepaiatory, Secretarial, General courses. Riding, swimming, golf_in weekly Write to THE MISSES BUDDECKE The Chatham Episcopal Institute for Girls Music, Art, Domestic Science, Expression. ‘Thor ough pre paration ior all colleges. New buildings Ten-ac wage re Athletics. Gymnasium. Terms moometate. Caseiogue and views. B. D. Tucker, D.D., re: Re O. Pruden, D.D., Rector. Mrs. Eliza- beth ‘May Wilits, B.P.,Prin. Box 20, Chatham, Va. | ST. HILDA’S HALL, Charles T VARD-BELMONT wy. Girais anv Younco Womstn

own, W. Va. The I ESERVATIONS for the 1919-20 * Chevron School for Girls. session should be made as soon as Episcopal. In the Shenandoah Valley. College pre- possible to insure entrance. | paratory. Elective Courses. Music and Art. Ath- . : : letics. Open air classes. Individual instruction. Courses covering 4 years preparatory | $600. Catalog. MARIAH PENDLETON DUVAL, Prin- and 2 years college werk. Strong Music and Art Depaitment. Also Liter- ature, Expression, Physical Training, Home Economics and Secretarial. Outdoor sports and swimming pool. cipal (former Principal § Stuart Hall FLORIDA Miss Harris’ Florida School Grammar and college preparation courses Edenwold is the School Farm and | Outdoor classes. Ocean bathing and golf all year. Country Club, | Miss Julia Fillmore Harris 2000 Bricke Il Ave.. Miami, Florida References, Booklets on request. Address WARD- BELMONT Belmont Heichts, Box Y, Nashville, Tenn. Mary Baldwin Seminary

In beautiful Shenandoah Valley. Est. 1842. Girls from 33 States. Collegiate and Pre parAtOry Music, FORT LOUDOUN SEMINARY, Winchester, Virgini Art, Expression, Domestic Science. Catalog. For higher culture of young women. Delightful lo- cation in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. Literary Business Courses. Special advantages in Art, Languages. Gymnasium and ie out- door exerciaes. Opens Sept. 23rd. Terms $425. For catalogue, address MIss KATHERINE R. GL ASS, Pres. FOR GIRLS. Randolph-Macon Institute [1.5445 loo: College preparatory and special courses for those not STAUNTON, VA. HOLLINS COLLEGE FOR WOMEN Founded Standard College Courses, B.A. and B.M. Ad- mission by certificate or examination. Degree accepted for graduate work by leading universities 280 students. Miss Matty L. Cocke, President Bo) . Hollins, Va

wishing to go to college. Vocal and Instrumental For Young Women. Stand- Music, Art, and Expression. Attractive home life. HOOD CO! COLLEGE ard A.B. _ tte B.S. Courses Gymnasium. rh anch of the ANSOSDA- Macon system Also Music, Art, Expression] and Home Economics Rates $425. Catalogue. Address CHAS. G. EVANS, Accredited Courses in Pedagogy. Separate Prepara- A. M.. Principal, VIRGINIA. DANVILLE. tory with certificate relations. Four new buildings on 45-acre suburban site. Our ow age and I)airy. Terms $375 to $425. JosmPH H. AppLR, LL.D., ary all 0 eee or omen President, Box B, Frederick, Md. 1853-19: SWEET BRIAR COLLEGE Stand: wd teat oa COURSES “ADVANTAGES Students received on certificate college courses. 10 miles from Baltimore and by examination Girls from 32 States “ emadlier door sports all year. Must aan foot Elevation dress the Registrar, Box 12. reproof Building A. M., Litt. D., President Expression Non-Sectarian cesar demise 2 : adress Box B, Lutherville. Md. College Preparatory College a ic Science Unexcelled climate, out-of- For catalogue and views ad- EMILIE WATTS MCVEA,

Professional Schools

Professional Schools KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL*/ SECRETARIAL & EXECUTIVE

A COSTUME DESIGN SCHOOL THAT PROVES

Beautiful costumes @aining for Educated Women de os gne : b y fr, ur Boston New York Providence stucents, letters from former students report- Broad and advanced curriculum cover- ing splendid success in professional work ,— both are here for you to see with your own eyes. ing all phases of business training per- taining to office, literary, social, and home lite. All work individualized so that each student advances as rapidly as she is able. Send for booklet. Fall term opens September 15th. Architects Building, 101 Park Ave., New York City Telephone Vanderbilt 5567 Home course for out- of-town pupils.

Miss Conklin’s Secretarial School Twentieth Year Commercial Engineers’ Building 37 WEST 39th STREET, NEW YORK .

Send for booklet 25A

Fashion Academy, Inc. 103 East 57th Street New York City Scottish Rite Temple San Francisco

Telephone 5569 Vanderbilt ns

Announcement E CHOOL United Hospital Training School for Nurses; Registered, offers a 2'4 years’ course to students; ae with Mount Sinai Hospital, New York City. New Hospital, well equipped, beautifully lo- cated; one hour's ride from New York; delightful nurses’ residence. Address. SUPERINTENDENT OF TRAINING SCHOOL, Port Chester, New York. OF ARTS CHARLES HENRY KEYES, Ph.D., President A woman's college offering broad general and cultural courses for wome n, while provid- ing splendid Opportunity for specialization. Applied science combined with technical study a alifies for leading callings open to women. ide selection provided— —Secretarial, Domes- tic Science, Physical Education, Music, and General courses, with related subjects. Attrac- tive opportunity for High School graduates. r Degree Granted. 4 yearcourse leads to B.S. : and 3 year Normal Course, Teacher's and datio tvisor's certificate. Residence accommo- dations, 400 students. Summer School, ses- sion, July 5th to August 13th. For catalogue addre °88 Secretary, Box G. SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y.

THE JAMAICA HOSPITAL TRAINING SCHOOL FOR NURSES offers a two (2) year and two (2) months course in nursing. (School Registered.) For particulars appiy to Superintendent, Y ork Ave., Jamaica, N.Y. TRAINING SCHOOL CONNECTICU FOR NURSES offers urse of training and instruction in the teaching hospital of ‘the. Yale University School of Medicine. ments--High School diploma or educational equivalent.

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_ New England Schools Pe a Lasell Seminary More than a passing on of text book knowledge is achieved at Lasell Seminary, Its goal is to arouse appreciation of the best in life and to develop the best in each stu- dent. The course of study from first year high school through two years advanced work for high school graduates, covers a wide range of academic subjects, and elec- tives necessary to individual development. Unusual training is given in various phases of home-making, from marketing to enter- taining. The school is delightfully situated on a thirty acre estate ten miles from Boston. All cultural advantages of the city are util- ized. Many forms of outdoor sport and rec- reation play a part in the school activities, Woodland Park Junior Department for girls under fifteen, Catalogs on application. GUY M,. WINSLOW, Ph.D., Principal CHAS. F. TOWNE, A.M., Asso. Principal 137 Woodland oad, Auburndale, Mass. Te Mary C. Wheeler Town and S h | Country OCHNOO Providence Rhode Island \ town school offering op for country life and sports. Broad Curricu lum including College Pre- paratory, General Secondary and Advanced Courses. Music. Art. Country resi- dence and week-end house. portunities New ‘England Schools New ae Schools HOWARD “SEMINARY A Famous Old New England Country School Twenty-five miles trom Boston. Science and Home Management. College Preparation Strong Courses in Instrumental and Vocal Music. General Courses. Domestic Modern Languages The school, home and gymnasium are each in separate buildings. Large new sleeping porch. Horseback riding, excellent canoeing, trips afield. 50 pupils. Live teachers. pper and lower school. Fine new Y. W. C. A. swimming pool. Military drill. Extensive grounds. All sports For catalogue address MR. and MRS.C.P. KENDALL, Principals, 26 Howard Street, WEST BRIDGEWATER, MASS. THE GATEWAY Calis pani General and sgecial courses | aghy and typewriting panicri oeback riding 50S Mi8S ALICE E. REYNOLOS, "Primcipal St Rewan Texeace. Hawere, Conn. THE BURNHAM SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Founded by Mary A. Burnham in 1877. Opposite Smith College Campus Miss HELEN E. THOMPSON, Headmistress, Northampton, Massachusetts THE MACDUFFIE_ SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Springfield - - - -piaseachusetts Acres 3s for Spo: College, ¢ Seneeall Special, and He Housccraft Courses. Principal: Joun MacDurrire, Ph.D. Mrs. MacDurrtr. A.B. Washington Schools | URESTALBAN, A school for litile girls, in the inv ‘igore ating climate of the Berkshires. ‘Thirty minutes from Pittsfield. 200 acres, 3 buildings. Number of pupils limited. Special care given to home training and character development. Open-air classes. ( door sports. For illustrated booklet address MIss ManrGery WHITING, Principal, Berkshire, Macs WHEATON COLLEGE FOR WOMEN Only small separate college for women in Massa- chusetts, 4-year course. A.B. degree. Faculty of men and women, 20 buildings. 00 aeres acres. En- dowment. Catalog. Rev. Samuet V. Core, D.D., LL. D., President. Massachusetts, Norton (30 30 miles s from I Boston) Washington § Schools JAMES E. AMENT, paratory Expression, sports. Attractive student. immediate @NATIONALPARK SEMINARY For Young Women Washington, D. C., Suburbs HIGHER school for high or pre- school graduates with specialized instruction in Music, Art, and vocational subjects. No extra charge for Domestic Science diplomacourse. 65-acrecampus. Gym- nasium with swimming pool Outdoor Charming little club-houses. Organized study of Washington. application References required. REGISTRAR, Box 170, Ph.D., LL.D., Pres. club life for every advisable. Catalogue. Forest Glen, Md. A Tower and Bakery re ll PHELPS SCHOOL for GIRLS Hillfield, Mount Carmel, Connections 125 acre estate mhouse and Cab’ atory, General, and papone Courses, intereating Citiaren's part- ment, open fee ool year and for summer res. nce--Inter- we ( hool ot Now ork) by appointment. en Eben Suburban to New York City Fifty Minutes from Fifth Avenue Dr. & Mrs. Frederic Martin Town- send’s Poarding School for high- school girls or gpaduates. Exquisite appointments. Magnificent gran te buildings (French chateau, immense gymnasium, cosey theatre). Fitteen acres in town Overlooking the sea. All usual studies; also music, art, ex pression, domestic science, secreta- rial. Select patronage.Mem bership$1200 For booklet with views address Director, Glen Eden, Stamford, Conn. The Ely School FOR GIRLS Ely Court, Greenwich, Connecticut In the country, one hour from New York City. Twenty-five acres, modern equipment. College preparatory, General, Secretarial and Post Graduate Courses. Music. Household arts. Daily work in the studio. Horseback riding and all sum- mer and winter sports. Sleep- ing Porch. 26 | CHEVY CHASE SCHOOL A school for the girl of today and tomorrow. Courses Preparatory; two-year advanced for high school graduates; special. Unrivalled location at the na- tional capital. For catalog, address CHEVY CHASE ScHOOL, Box B, FREDERIC ERNEST FARRINGTON, Ph.D., Headmaster, Washington, D. C Gunston Hall A School for Girls, Established 1892. Mrs. Beverley R. Mason, Principal 1924 Florida Ave., Washington, D. C. The Colonial School for Girls. A _ distinctive school in the national capital giving to a selected num- ber of girls the best American culture. Preparatory, Collegiate, Domestic Arts, Secretarial. Individual attention. Music, Art, Expression, Athletics. Miss CHARLOTTE CRITTENDEN EVERETT, Princl 1533 Eighteenth St.. Washington, D. C. Special Schools ELM HILL A Private Home and School For Sete Children and Youth ARRE, MASSACHUSETTS Skillful ye affect onate care. Invigorating air, 250-acre farm. Home dairy. _ All modern con- veniences. Personal companionship. Health, happiness, efficiency. 71st year. Address GEORGE A. BROWN, M.D., G. PERCY BROWN, M.D. Many girls who can grow up UNUSUAL GIRLS normally puzzle parents be- cause they are “different.”” Such girls need expert understanding and individual training under special influences. Perplexed parents address WALDEMAR H. GROSZMANN, 600 Darrow Avenue, Plainfield, N. J. Under New STANDISH MANOR SCHOOL Under "New For girls who are behind others of their own age in their studies. Home care. Department for younger girls Unusual advantages. " Modern Manor House. Address e RUwSSELL, Principal. Halifax, near Plymouth, Mass- r the Deaf, 26th year 1 Mt. Morn Park West New York City Boarding = Day Pupils Refined home. beautiful surroundings, mother’s care for -each child. Expert instruction in speech, lip-reading and auricular training. Complete education kindergarten, to college entrance. You can be quickly cured, if you STAMMER Sut Demennesenaaes for70- book on Stam. mering and Stuttering, “Its Care.” It tells how I — myseif after - for 20 years. Benjamin N. Bogue, ¢553 Bogue Building, Indianapelie Special Schools Florence Nightingale School for Backward Children KATONAH, N. Y. BOARDING AND DAY PUPILS C dence and Inspection Invited RUDOLPH S. FRIED, Principal Choate School (Formerly Miss Guild and Miss Evans’) 1600 Beacon Street, Brookline, Massachusetts 39th year. Home and Day School for Girls. College preparation; General Courses Household Management, Literature, lo guages, Art and Music with best Boston teachers. Social lite, special care of experi- enced resident teachers. Horseback riding. AUGUSTA CHOATE, Vassar, A.B., A.M, Principal HELEN ANDERSON SMITH, Assoriate Principal Address, until August first 200 Commonwealth Avenue, Reston " ( WATERBURY, CONN. Founded 1/0 Located in one of the most beautiful and healthful spots in New England. College Pre- aratory. Courses in Music, Fine Arts, History anguages, Domestic Science, Physical Cui- ture, Tenis, Basket Ball and Swimming. 50- acre School farm, “ Umberfleld,”’ gives un- usual opportunities for all sports, including skating, snowshoeing, etc. Girls here also put their Domestic Science teachings into actual ractice. One hour from Hartford or New auven. Send for catalog and views. MISS EMILY GARDNER MUNRO, A.M., Principal HILLSIDE Fon'ciats: FOR GIRLS. 45 miles from New York. College Preparation, Cultural Courses. Household Science, including actual practice in # real home. Organized Atbietics Margaret R. Brendlinger, A. B.(Vassar) Vida Hunt Franeis, B. A. (Smith) Prins. LINCOLN SCHOOL a: Elective Courses. College preparation. Special opportunities for older girls. usic. Art. Home conomics. Secretarial course. Horseback riding and all country sports. Miss Frances Lucas, Princip Providence, Rhode ROGERS HALL SCHOOL E.R. Lowell, Massachusetts. 38 minutes from Boston. ee Sports; Gymnasium and swim- pool. catalogue and views, address MIS LIVE: SEWALL PARSONS, B. A., Principal al, ‘I sland. _ A SELECT PRIVATE HOME SCHOOL FOR BACKWARD CHILDREN Specialist in speech work RYE BEACH SCHOOL Rye, New York MOUNT DA SCHOOL FOR GIRLS for Year Boo 2525 Summit Street, Newton, Mass. Cam p Ezeemoggin for Girls: Maine Coast, 6th Yi care Booklet f Address E. L. Montgomery, Director, Mt. Ida. ‘Schoo 1. The Bancroft School For Mentally Subnormal Children One of the oldest and best schools of its kind in exis- tence. For catalog address Box 165, Haddonfield, N.J. E. A. Farrington, M.D. Jenzia Coulson Cooley. SCHOOL FOR EXCEPTIONAL CHILDREN Every facility in a beautiful suburban home for the care and training of children who through mental disability are unable to attend public or private schools. Dept. of Domestic Science for older girls, 14 miles from Philadelphia. Booklet. Mollie A. Woods, Prin., Box 152 Reslyn, Pa. ACERWOOD TUTORING SCHOOL For boys and girls who need individual instruction to make normal ere, Kindergarten to High School :—Industrial Arts. Domestic Science. Music. Gymnastics. Gardening. Ethical Training. Home Life. Medical Supervision. Adequate Buildings— Large Campus. Outdoor life in summer. 16 miles from Philadelphia. Booklet H. Miss DEVEREUX, Devon, Pa. Bryn Mawr Schoo Corrective psychology for backwardness, speech defects and nervous irritability. In keeping with latest research in psychology and medicine. School subjects. Vocational oetenee. Consultation. Alice C. Hinckley, M. A., Director, Ardmore, Pa. THE HEDLEY SCHOOL. Fo children of slight. ‘ded mentailty. Individual instruction ne, normal lines. Latent abilities Govenepes. Idealhomelife. Association with normal children. . J. ROGER HEDLEY, M. D., yo Physician. Mrs. J. ROGER HEDLEY, (N niv. ds Prin. Box B, Glenside Penna. (12 miles an Phila THE BINGHAMTON TRAINING SCHOOL An ideal private home-school for nervous, back- ward and mental defectives. No age limit. Phys- ical Culture. Manual Training and all branches. Open get rouse. Terms $50 per month — up. MR. MRS. AUGUST * to iT, hamten, N.Y. For Individual De eee 82 tt Avenue, Miss Howe and Miss Marot’s School A country boarding school designed to train carefully a limited number of girls. College preparation. Advi anced eourses. Special attention to outdoor life. Mary Louise Marot, Principal THOMPSON, CONN. The Chamberlayne School General, special and college preparatory courses. Household arts. Music Languages—native teachers. Out-of-door sports. THE FENWAY, 28, Boston, Mass. WALNUT HILL SCHOOL A College Preparatory School for Girls. 17 miles from Boston. 46 acres. Skating pond. Athletic fields. Gymnasium Miss CONANT, Miss BIGELOW, seg 30 Highland St., atick, Mass. SOUTHFIELD POINT SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Situated on Long Island Sound. General College res atory courses. 4 pore bathing beach, hockey , termis and ry all courts,- riding horses; go! ity priv 7 perme no Caskin, Principal Southfield Point, Stamford, Conn. House in the Pines, Norton, Mass. (40 minutes from Boston.) A school for girls. Preparatory and finishing courses. Languages—native teachers Music, Household Arts. Secretarial courses. Every attention, not only to — of study, but to eac girl's health and happi Miss GERTRUDE E. “CORNISH, Principal. TUTORING FRENCH SPANISH Individual or class lessons. Sena AL ze py Se eag pe occupy time pleasantly,study in Instructor, graduate University of Patt For information, " ‘ite HARPER'S BAZAR

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Professional Schools ema 88, Rema) meas | ee ca Training for Authorship How towrite, what to write, and where to sell. Cultivat ind. Deve pouvtlender aie Master iP art of self-expression. Make your spare time profitable. urn your ideas into dollars, Courses in Short-Story Writ- ing, Versification, Journalism, Play Writing, Photoplay Writ- ing, ete.. taught personally by J. Berg Esenwein, for many years editor of Lippin. cott’s Bagasine, and a sta ts. Pt te "helpful advice. Dr. Esenwein tive criticism F Iterary — rism, ran Real teaching. onest,. One pupil has received over $5,000 for stories and articles written mostly in spare time---‘‘play work,"”” he calls it. Another pupil received over 31,000 before compiet- ing her first course. Another, a busy wife and mother, is averaging over $75 a week from photoplay writing aione. There is no other institution or Bay doing —_ for writers, young or old. The universition nize this, for over 100 members of the English faeu ties of higher institutions are studying in our Literary Department. The editors recognize it, for they are ly ig our courses, We publish The Writer's Library, 13 volumes; descriptive booklet free. also publish W, iter’s Monthly, the leading magazine for literary workers; sample copy 20 eents, annual subscription $2.00. Besides our teac - on service, we manuscript criticism servic 150- page Illustrated catalogue free Please Address The Home Correspondence School Dept. 19 Springfield, Mass. Established 1897 Incorporated 1904 # Carnegie Hall 57th Street and 7th Ave. N. ¥. City Short, practical courses four afternoons a week. 1, For advanced students who wish to do higher illus- tration. 2. Foe beginners who wish to do costume orcom mercial illustration. 3. Evening life class for women. Mrs.Wilde was formerly of Pratt Institute- Further information wi:l be mailed upon request. New York School of Expression (C hartered by the Regents of the University of the State of N. Y. Daily and Saturday Classes Oral Eng- lish, Dramatic Art, Public Speaking, Pantomime, Dancing, Speech defects cured 318 West 57th Street, New York City Professional Schools American Academy of Dramatic Arts | Founded in 1884 FRANKLIN H. SARGENT, Principal The leading institution for Dramatic and Expressional Training in America. Connected with Charles Frohman's Empire Theatre and Companies. For information apply to THE SECRETARY. 175 Carnegie Hall | NEW YORK . Vestoff Serova - Russian School 47 West 72nd St. New York Telephone Columbus 6212-9283 Ballet, Interpretative, Classic, National, and Folk Dancing. Children’s Courses a Specialty. Baby Work, Nature Dancing, Dramatic Pantomime. Modern Ballroom Dancing Faculty of pre-eminent specialists CLASSES — PRIV ATE LESSONS —- NORMAL COURSES Booklet **A"’, descriptive of school, on request SUMMER NORMAL COURSE 1920 JUNE and JULY ILLUSTRATED TEXT BOOKS Va Advanced Technique: * Russian Imperial Method of Training a Dancer. Baby Work Nature Dancing xXx $5. 00 each for volume. od Catalogue sent on request HELEN MOLLER Temple of the Greek Dance LESSONS—RECITALS 746 MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK Academy of Theatrical Art training schools for Opera, Preparatory and Vaudeville, Musical Comedy, Photoplay Acting, Classical and stage dancing. Day and evening classes. 218 Lenox Ave.. cor. 12Ist St., New York. Phone Harlem 9480. CHAS. NEWMAN, Gen. Director. ALVIENE SCHOOL OF ACTING Academic, Techni- Founded 1894 cal and Practical Dramatic Art Training. Stu- Musical Comedy dents’ School Photo-Pla Theatre and Stock and Dance Arts Co. afford New York appearances. For catalog, write omas Irwin, Secretary Mentioning Study Desired 225 W. 57th St., near Broadway, New York Dod Day Course Send for Booklet ie Sind School INTERIOR DECORATION 10 WEST 47th STREET, NEW YORK Correspondence Course Evening Course METROPOLITAN ART SCHOOL MODERN COLOR Taught by Correspondence OOLOR MIXING COLOR JUXTAVOSITION COLOR HARMONIES COLOR CONTRASTS For Portrait, Landscape, Poster, Costume Designing and Interior Decorating 56 WEST 57th STREET, NEW YORK CITY SUMMER Professional Training Costume Design; Landseape svenmestnt e; Interior Decora- : Poster Advertising: Life ————————— pa Illustration, ete. New York School of Fine and Applied Art Frank Alvah Parsons, Pres. Circulars Susan F. Bissell, Secy. 2239 Broadway, New York DESIGNING and MILLINERY Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting taught for whole- 8 le, retail or home use. Day and Evening School. Call or write for particulars. McDowell Dross- making and M'linery Sehoo s, Estab. Chartered under Regents. 25 West 35th St., SILVER SANDS BY-THE-SEA Combines 5 in struction physical training, play ground and, recreation work with a real good-time vacation. 250 acres. Bath- ing, swimming, fishing, canoeing. Land sports. Splendid equipment. NEW — E sf Normat SCHOOL OF GYMNASTICS, 1466 Chapel Ni ew Haven, Conn, adios College of Oratory Largest School of Oratory, Belles-let- tres and Pedagogy in America. Sum- mer Session. 41st year. Degrees grant- ed. Address HARRY SEYMOUR Ross, Dean, Huntington Cnambers, Boston. oo > Kee n Picture Acting. DANCING Classic, Ingerpretive, Lowest Prices. Quickest Resuiee Single Lessons [DRAMATIC ART Elccution, Public Speaking, | | Professional Schools Helen Guest Studio, 143 W. 42nd St. (Times Sq.) N.Y. Cit Telephone, Bryant 9511 Ithaca Conservatory of Music Special advantages for those who look forward to concert or educa. tional work. All instruments, vocal, dramatic art., etc. (iraduates filling highest places available in America. Catalog. Distinguished faculty. Address The Registrar 13 De Witt Park Ithaca, New York MACLEAN COLLEGE OF MUSIC DRAMATIC AND SPEECH ARTS Professional training in Vocal Art, Piano, Harmony, Dramatic Art or Expression. At its new home 2835 South Michigan Avenue Chicago A real Home for Music Students New York's modern, = "cate Music Sch NEW YORK SCHOOL OF MUSIC AND ARTS RALFE LEECH STERNER, Director posite Central Park, Corner 95th Street, York ool. All Branches of Music and the Arts taught from the beginning to the hi fest artistic finish by a distinguished faculty. E ms:—Tuition, Board, Practising, etc. urope'’s and America’ s Most Eminent Teachers Sc Mehlin piano used exclusively Pupils May Enter Any Da New Send for bookle hool Sosudiancies Pooper Chaperonage Letter from Harper’s Bazar Miss E. Brown My Dear Miss Brown: I am very glad to recommend Fashion Academy to you. I can assure you that you will find every- thing absolutely as represented in the literature of the school. It has been my plea- sure to recommend many of our subscrib- ers to this school and as yet 1 have never hed any but a com- plimentary report about the personnel of the school and its courses. Kenneth N. Chambers Director School Department. Gentlemen: Fashion Academy, Studio 16 B 103 East 57th Street, New York. Please send me your Free Booklet 16 Home Study Course in Costume Could You Use Ten Times Your Present Income? ‘‘What Luxuries She Has Since She Became a Costume Designer!’’ The poor, rueful little dressmaker need not envy the prosperous cos- tume designer. She, too, can easily fit herself to earn a luxurious in- come. Socan YOU. You need not be talented in the least—beginning as a novice, you can become a Costume Designer in three months through our Home Study Course. You will then be ready to practice this easy, pleasant profession, which pays salaries well into five figures. What Our Graduates Do FASHION ACADEMY is the recognized school of Costume De- sign in professional circles. | The fact most gratifying to the faculty of Fashion Academy is the readiness with which our graduates secure well-paying positions. For instance, one of. our young women, three months after the receipt of her di- ploma, reports earnings of $125 a week. She has created costumes for Lady Duff-Gordon, the world- famous designer. Send for Free Booklet 16 B Our Free Booklet contains not only complete information about our Home Study Course in Costume Design, but also irresistible letters from former pupils and from em- ployers of costume designers. ‘Think of your success and your happiness. Fill out and mail the coupon below, or send letter asking for Free Book- let 16 B. Fashion Academy, Inc. Studio 16 B 103 E. 57th St., New York City A containing information about your Design

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BETTY TELLS A SECRET By HELEN S. K. WILCOX Illsstration by Edward A. Poucher HAD iooked forward to Marion’s luncheon at the Ritz-Preston with unusual anticipation since the day she called up and announced that Betty Arnold, an old school-chum of ours now married to a wealthy New York man was to be her guest. Marion had concluded our telephone tete-a-tete with this admonition, “Now I shall absolutely depend upon you, Nell, and for goodness sake, forget the babies for just one afternoon and get out with the old crowd once more! You and Betty will make the old “Jolly Eight” complete and won’t it be larky to reminisce about our yes- terdays? The Ritz-Preston at 1 P. M., remember, and look your prettiest!” I had no intention of permitting the kiddies to keep me at home on this occasion, and Tony was delighted at my resolve. That Marion’s affair was to be held at the fashionable Ritz- Preston gave me no qualms at all. IL had hardly given my apparel a thought until Tony, the evening be- fore, had casually inquired, “Shouldn’t you have had something new, Nella, for this momentous occasion?” My thoughts, busy with happy an- ticipations of the morrow, suffered a rude jar. “New?” I echoed faintly, “Why, my Spring suit will do beau- tifully, don’t you think, dear?” “Of course it will if you say so,” Tony agreed quickly, “only I knew you had been such a good little sport not to ask for ‘doll-up’ money of late that perhaps a sizable check about now would be appreciated. Probably you won’t be able to recog- nize your old friend, Betty What-do- you-eall-her, she’ll be so very New Yorky! Just the same, bet you a biscuit she won’t hold a candle to one Mrs. Anthony Porter Morse!” and Tony made me a grand salaam, yet I almost fancied he would have liked me to appear next day in a becoming “creation” instead of last Spring’s Beady-made suit. But I was in for it and really didn’t regret at the time that I hadn’t asked my generous husband for a hundred dollars or more in a vain and belated attempt to dress up to my old friends, comparatively all of whom had married well-to-do men. We had been through a rather try- ing year in more ways than one. At America’s entry into the war, Tony and I had decided that he must try for a commission and I would take the children to his parents’ in Vir- ginia and remain there until the work of soldiering was finished. Tony was duly commissioned First Lieu- tenant and did his bit in France, and last Spring, with thousands of others, he had donned mufti again, and thinking it as opportune a time as any to start in for himself, he sev- ered his connection with an old down- town firm of lawyers. As a result, we were not exactly swimming in wealth. But I hadn’t minded. The children kept me too busy and happy, especially after the arrival in March of baby Ruth. So functions of any kind had been mainly passed up by both Tony and me, and it hadn’t oe- curred to me that we could easily af- ford a luxury or two at last. But it was too late to go shopping for a nice outfit. So I consoled my- self with the thought that not one of the “Jolly Eight” had a husband who had followed the flag and had re- turned home to gamely found a bus- iness of his own, alone and unaided. I dreamed that night before the luncheon of a fairy godmother who appeared and waving her wand, robed me in a _ wonderful gown which strangely resembled a very costly im- ported model I had wistfully gazed upon several days before in one of the exclusive shop windows. But when morning came, my dream fairy had cruelly fied! 28 When I had joined Marion and Betty in the foyer of the beautiful Ritz-Preston and we were awaiting the arrival of the others, I realized with a sharp, unhappy pang that if clothes do not make the woman, they certainly help enormously! The “Jolly Eight,” to a woman—excepting me—were delightfully, perfectly turned out, and when I glanced down at my plain little blouse and the suit which had seemed so much more pre- sentable at home, I felt like poor Cinderella! Not that my friends eonveyed the least hint of such a thing; it was enough that I knew. But the one none of us could keep our eyes from was Betty Arnold. Betty was “New Yorky” through and through, as Tony had predicted, with looking like “a million dollars,” as Tony put it. She had run up at the first opportunity to see our children and the pretty, convenient flat, and after all these had been duly ad- mired, I blurted out: “Oh Betty! You can’t imagine how impossible I felt yesterday at Mar- ion’s luncheon! You were simply per- fection yourself and Marion and all the other girls wore such lovely, becoming things. I am foolish and wicked, L know, but I can hardly wait for Tony to mesmerize the town and have it flocking to him with profitable cases!” Betty never said a word for a min- ute and then she asked, “How much did the suit cost which you wore yes- terday?” “Forty-five dollars last Spring,’ I answered forlornly, Of course I had to put on the dress at once ana they both went into raptures over it, that special style elusiveness which a clever woman instantly recognizes and to which she can’t help but pay secret homage. Betty was simply wonderful in supple black satin—hat, wrap and gown—with just a master touch of some new, rich color in relief. “T shall ask the name of her de- signer,” whispered one of my friends aside, “although I have no doubt that all are original importations.” I think most of us were mentally registering a similar vow, unless it were me, for I had resolved after see- ing my companions in their lovely clothes that I would remain a recluse forevermore, or at least until Tony Morse’s bank account could stand such an onslaught as it had never been pre- viously called upon to face. After Marion and Betty had drop- ped me at our flat on their way home, I threw myself down on the bed and eried and cried—because I knew that black satin on the order of Betty’s frock was just invented to go with fair hair and dark blue eyes—like mine. “But I ean’t afford it,’ I told my- self desperately, “the children all need new outfits and it costs so hor- ribly to buy even a decent pair of rompers these days. I shall just have to wait until Tony gets on his feet and then—watch me dress!” It was that night that I dreamed for the second time of a fairy godmother who had come to deck the children and me in_ bewitching garments straight from New York and Paris. The day after the luncheon, who should drop in but Betty herself, “At what would you price the one I am wearing now?” she continued. “Oh, from $150 up.” “That is a compliment!” laughed Betty, “and the other girls have been just as flattering. Each of them in- sisted on knowing my modiste. Now listen, dear, I am going to tell you what I told them, although I’m sure most of them actually doubted me, —I make my own clothes and the only cost is for the bare materials.” I guess Betty saw I was too sur- prised for further speech, for she went right on explaining, “You are wondering this minute if I made that satin frock I wore to Marion’s lunch- eon. I most certainly did, and sev- eral others more elaborate than that. I can see how astonished you are at the idea of my making my own clothes, but I ean tell you that I would have precious few new togs otherwise, this year, as Fred lost nearly every- thing in war speculations. I had al- ways loved good clothes, you know, and it didn’t seem as if I could give them up entirely. It was about that time that a friend who is noted for her inimitable taste and style con- fided her secret to me—that she made and designed everything herself and devoted her private income to a pet charity. This wealthy woman told me in detail how she had discovered a wonderful home-study course in dress- making and millinery, and how she had enrolled and actually learned to rival the Fifth Avenue creators in style and finish. I saw at once what such a course would mean to me and I wrote the Woman’s Institute, Scranton, Advertisement Pa., the very next day for all particu: lars. 1 got them by return mail and, really, Nell, you would be perfectly fascinated with the directions. [ learned right away how to know my own particular style, how to carry it out, how to successfully copy the ex- pensive models one sees in the shops— in fact, the whole art of designing and dressmaking was made so clear that after a few lessons, 1 could make lit- tle blouses and the like for which the stores ask small fortunes.” Betty paused for breath and I jumped up, the solution to my prob- lem on a fair way to solving. “I’li do it!” I exclaimed joyfully, “and the kiddies and I will never go shabby again. What is more, I believe I owe it to Tony to look my best when I’m out among possible clients. One can’t help but be impressed with appear- ances, and looking prosperous—at a third of the supposed cost—is quite worth while, my dear!” “I hoped you would see it that way, Nell,” replied Betty happily, “If only more women would realize that they do not have to pay out-of-sight prices tor pretty clothes! “And more and more of them are realizing it. The increase in the mem- bership of the Woman’s Institute dur- ing and since the war is amazing, and it is composed largely of women who formerly patronized the most ex- clusive places. The Institute way appeals to those who have been accus- tomed to the best but who feel they can’t afford to pay present prices. “And it is so simple. Just write the Institute that you are interested —they do the rest. Next Spring, Nell, I can imagine you appearing at important affairs in clothes which will be the envy of the town! Think how proud Tony will be of you and how much an attractive, smartly- gowned wife can help him!” And, sure enough, day before yes- terday just after I had put the fin- ishing touches on my new Spring dress, who should come in but Betty and Marion! Of course I had to put on the dress at once and they both went into raptures over it. But when I had shown them all the wonderful garments I have made for myself and the kiddies, since Betty told me her secret only a few months ago, they were almost speechless with amaze- ment. And I thanked Betty over and over again for telling me just when she did, because, as Tony says, “A man’s wife’s clothes do help him in business and, with everything going fine at the office, we should worry about the high cost of living when you can dress the whole family on practically nothing-a-year!” Betty’s secret has a practical ap- plication to your needs. More than 50,000 women are members of the Institute—and have proved that any woman or girl can easily and quickly learn right in her own home, in spare time, all there is to know about dress- making or millinery. Tt costs you nothing to find out all about the Woman’s Institute and what it can do for you. Simply send a letter, posteard or the convenient coupon below and you will receive by return mail the full story of this great school, that has brought the happiness of having dainty, becoming clothes, savings almost too good to be true and the joy of being independent in a successful business to women and girls all over the world. WOMAN’S INSTITUTE Dept. 36-D, Scranton, Peana. Please send me one of your booklets and tell me how I ean learn the sub- ject marked below: 2 Professional Dressmaking 0 Home Dressmaking O Millinery D2 Cooking Nam e (Please specify whether Mrs. or Miss) Address

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rT ' HOTEL & TRAVEL SERVICE 2-4tihees' LL | LZoing somewhere? HY—why, to the mountains, of course—and trees —woods, you know—to ride through; ‘and— lakes, of course—golf—and—er—well, isn’t it the mountains you want— Close your eyes! Can’t you smell those deep-shadowed pine forests with their fragrant, carpeted paths? And the lakes, crystal-clear, like melted diamonds nestling deep between the snow-tipped mountains? Or, should it be your desire to take a southward turn or to the sea—F lorida, perhaps, with its feathery palms Now that Spring ts here —don’t you want to be and white beaches—or Bermuda—Varper’s Bazar can send you all sorts of personal information you didn’t dream a “service” could give. Don’t forget it’s a Harper’s Bazar Service. Let Harper's Bazar’s Travel Service take care of all the unpleasant details for you, find your trains and reserve your rooms. Wherever you want to go— north, south, east or west—you will find us very much at your service. Address Hotei anp TRAVEL SERVICE, HARPER’S BAZAR, 119 W 4oth Sweet, NEW YORK Mi Opposite Pennsylvania 1\| Terminal, New York HOTEL. PENNCYLVANIA A GOOD PLACE TO PE The several restaurants of the Pennsylvania are unlike each other in everything but excellence. A: one time or another you’ll probably use them all. The most beautiful and luxurious of them— and a perfect setting for any meal—is the Main Dining Room, But if you want to dance, or to watch the dancing, at tea, dinner or supper, you will choose the big Grill Room, When your prin- cipal concern—besides, of course, a good meal— is fast service and little ceremony, the Men’s Café will be just right. And for the man on his way to train or subway, with only time for a hurried lunch, there’s the Lunch Room—which meets such emergencies quite satisfactorily, HAT trip abroad of yours—long 4 postponed—is it to remain a dream of the future? Will you ever be better © able to go than this year? Travel abroad always holds out to us the opportunities of knowing at first hand the life, history, art and monu- ments that we now know only imperfectly through our reading. This year, in addition, we may see for ourselves the great stage upon which has been enacted one of the epochal crises in the history of the world. In | a ‘conditions existing to- ed to help you with — ¢ smooth and com- France, Belgium, ‘Holland, Great THOS: COOK & SON, New York San Francisco Toronto asl Boston 29

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rth daneare Aas enna

baby things blouses

corsets (Continued) feathers & boas

BABY FURNITURE— beds, chairs, etc., made of wood. Thing s."" Free booklet. Frank M 512-14 independence Ave., Kansas City, TINY TOTS’ TOGS Hand made. Unique de- designs in baby boys’ dresses, creepers, layettes, and little girls’ caps and roe ks. Catalog. Da Vis, Box 86B, Sturgis, Mich. For the baby & child, “The Better Sawyer, Mo.

*““VASSAR”’ $4.50 BLOUSE SHOP—Special- izing one price, we offer exceptional values in Georgette & C repe de Chine blouses. 500 Fifth Ave., N. Y. C. Send for booklet MME. S. SCHWARTZ Custou- made corsets for the woman ot Section il 47th Street, New York City Ta ephone 552 Murray Hill.

fans & Ostrich feathers reconstructed; west dress trimmings and fancies from old feathers. Prompt mail service. PARADISE, goura, Ne

PHOENICEA & VENICE STUDIO, 5 W. 39th st A.A. Badran, maker and designer of lingerie, initial, monogram, ,New Haven, Conn.

eidede blouses, etc, Branch at 183 Orange St MADAME L. BROWN, Peetz Corset Co., has opened her own estab- lishment at 45 West 37th St., New York City. Corsets ready to wear and made to o der. formerly fitter for

H. Methot, 29 West 34th Street, New York, flesh reduction

beauty culture

VALUE AND SERVICE you will find that buying from the many shops listed here is a pleasant surprise LOUISE GREENWOOD, specialist in Corsets. Copied, Cleaned, repaired: most reas. Made to order. Ready to wear. Descriptive bkit. sent. 500-5th Ave.,N.Y., cor. 42d St. Vanderbilt 845. SUPERFLUOUS Fiesh reduced by modern sci- entific electrical method. No dieting or exer- cising required. Dr. Newman, lic. phys., 286 5th Ave.,(nr.308t.),N.Y.C. PhoneMad. Sq.5758.

EYEBROW AND EYELASH PERFECTOR. $1.20 per box. Single application lasts 2 to weeks, giving beautiful shape and tint. Treat- ment 50c¢ at Spiro’s, 26 W. 38th St., N. Y. MME. MAYS Face Specialist 50 West 49th Eereet Bryart 9426 New York City MME. MAYS, Face Specialist Est. 30 yrs. Per- manently removes wrinkles, freckles, scars, etc Muscies tightened; oagoracs by known physi- cians. Oneaddress : 50 W. 49th st t..N.Y¥. Bry.9426 MME. JULIAN’S SPECIFIC has. has stood the test for fifty years. Information offered free to all paving uaqerrabte hair growths M ME. JULIAN, 14 West47thst., New York City MME. MARIE absolutely guarantees to re- move permanently all facial blemishes and make women look many years unger. 222 Riverside Drive, cor. 94th 8 a _3376 F Riverside _

y el. FLETCHER’S BLEACH PASTE. Culifornia’s wonderful face cream removes tan and freckles

Use as powder base to protect compiexion. Post paid $1.00. Tom Fletcher Co., Los Angeles, Cal THE NECK BEAUTIFUL. Your neck looks old —not your face. Don't wear a black velvet band, use Harveys Neck Whitener, ** Whitens and Tightens." $lajar. Harveys, 373 5th Ave. N.Y.C BONCILLA BEAUTIFIER clears complexion Lifts out Lines and Blackheads, gives Velvety Skin. Results Guaranteed, or money refunded Price $1.56. The Crown Chemical Co., Indianapolis, Ind PERFECT BLACKHEAD TREATMENT is the latest scientific victory of the Ferrol System Removes blackheads and their causes. $3.00 Y

books & magazines

EMMAE. GOODWIN Inc., Corset Specialists. Oaty place in N. Y. where pennize models of Mrs. Goodwin's design are sold, 17_E. 35th 8 betw. Madison & 5th Aves ky Murray Hil 5776. FLESH REDUCING CREAM will reduce from three to five pounds a week. Sample jar with instructions. $3.00 Leslie A. Goodell. Hotel Langham, Boston, Mass

~ BOSTON NK MAGAZINE EXCHANGE 3ack Issues of Leading Magazines. 109 Mountfort St. Boston, Mass. BARCLAY CUSTOM CORSETS Special reducing corsets individually de- signed. Fittings given personal attention by Alice Newcomb, 500 5th Ave., New York City. Blanche Arral, famous Grand Opera star, tells how she reduced her flesh without drugs, dieting or strenuous exercise. Write for infor’n. Arral's Tika Tea Co., Dept. 18, 500 5th Ave., N. Y. C

books for children ROB ROBIN, Topsy Thistle, Beth Buttercup, Nature Stories for children, at all book-shops, or postpaid, 75¢ each. Send for colored booklet Warren Books, 347 Cutler Bidg., Rochester, N.Y

THE FLATTFORM BRASSIERE gives that flat appearance which Dame Fashion calls for. Special attention to proper fitting. Mail rears, $2 up. Rose Hagan, 665 Fifth Ave., N. Y. C. BARY-GONE BATH CARTRIDGES. 4 posi- tive fat reducer. Originated by Prof. Silvio Ple- vani. Marvelous results. $2 twelve baths. P. A P. Co., 469 Central Park West, New York City.

THE “‘PEETZ”’ Front Lace corset. The orig- — and only Establishment at 163 East 37th f hone Murray Hill 697. ‘““The Highest Art in Corseting.’

FAT REDUCED: thermo electric medium; per- manent results: Swedish gymnastics and mas- sage. No diet Mi ne gy benefited. Miss Frye, grad. nurse, 233 W. 107 St., N.Y. Tel. Acad 1106.

buttons, plaiting dancing furniture

Sadleir’ sExpert Service. Buttons Covered, cus- tomers’ own material. Hemstitch & plaiting, all at yles. Dry Cleaning, Fancy Dyeing. Mail orders. italog. Sadleir, 17G West 34th St., N. Y¥. C. HEMSTITCIIING—Accordion & Knife pleat- ing, Pinking, buttons covered & butt onholes. Dressmakers Tailor supplies Send for a i ti B. Goldsmith & Co., 662 6th Ave., N.Y.

MODERN SOCIETY DANCING Taught by retined young lady; hours 9 to 9. Doris J. Durling, 55 West 46th St., New M ork. Classes in the evening. Tel., Bryant 302

NEW YORK GALLERIES Grand Rapids Furniture Co., In Plates of interesting interiors, gratis = n request, 417-421 Madison Ave. (48 St.), N.

ILA DERINDA KNOWLES Modern Dancing re eres oe Children, Adults and ts he 562 Fifth Ave.,Cor.46thSt.,N.Y NT ant 6139 YOU ARE OR INTEND refurnishing your home. Mme. Naftal will purchase whatever fur- niture,rugs,draperies,ete., you wish to dispose of. Write or phone. 69 W.458t., N. Y. Bryant 670.

candies Vestoff-Serova School, 47 W. 72nd St., N.Y. Nature Dancing, Russian, Barlot. a Bh etc. Illustrated text books on Nature or Russian Dancing. $5 per volume. Catalog N. on request.

furnished apartment

CHERI SUPER CHOCOLATES Assorted, pound box $1.25 parcel post prepaid. Best you ever tasted at any price or the box week our com- Two Ballroom Suites for Rental For po gaia Socia MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY have furnished a few 2-room, bath and kitchenette apartments. Ali very handsome and cozy. Spec! ial Summer i: We 645 Plaza.

postpaid. Ferrol. 200 West 72nd Street, N pliments. Cheri, Ine., 142 So. 15th St., Phila Functions rates. 159 E. 5ist St., FERROL’S Magic Skin Tonic refreshes tired : ; uryea Dances may faces immediately, effaces lines, invigorates ° Ev a. Thursday Evenin facial muscles, stimulates the skin and gives the catering 8.30 to 12.30 Subse ription $1.10 urs color of youth.$2.25.Ferrol System,200 W.72d St t 47 West 72nd Street MISS ALEXANDER CARDANI 6th Ave. at 53rd St. | G. caiiaaia WILSON, M. B. Modern. | FUR REMODELING: WE SPECIALIZE Face Specialist For distinctive catering dances taught privately. Terms most reasonable. in renovating old furs. Our with a personal ‘touch Bookiet “The Dance,’’ on request. Thorley prices are as low as Valuable information on excessive growth of hair Billings Bidg., 8S. E. Cor. 34th St. & 5th Ave., N. Y. JOHN POST’S BLACKHEADLOTION¢eradi- cates blackheads by absorbing secretion in the pores; contracts large pores: clarifies skin.$1 rested for 20 yrs. 500 5th Av., cor.42nd St., NY V. DARSY—Saion de Jeunesse. Face and neck treatments of the great French specialist, Dr. Dys, with his preparations. Endorsed by royalty Send for book and questionnaire.630 5th av oN. Y FACE POWDER in non-greasy paste form. Something entirely new! It sticks, beautifies, hides freckles, harmless Postpaid $1.00.C —— & Currie, Chemists, 2911 Glenwood Rd. B’ klyn,

Reduce your Bust or other Fat with one jar of Casi Obesity Cream External. Harmless. No Mas- saging. No Dieting. Sample 10c. Currie, 2911 Glenwood Road, Brooklyn, N. Y. MISS A. MUGGESSER, Face Specialist Special treatment for wrinkles and relaxing muscies. Undesirable hair. Information free. 726 Madison Ave. near 64th Street. Phone Plaza 3902. MME. LILLIE’S Toilet Preparations. 1 guar- antee to improve your complexion within two weeks with my optringens lotion or refund your ¥. C

money. $1 bottle. 47 W. 42nd St., N

MME. H ER’S Marvelous Pre parations Most beneficial creams ever offered. Almond Oil, Lemon Oil, Astringent. Pore- Beaneing. ve nishing. Mme. Heller, Suite 901A1, 5 E. 40th St., N. Y.

and in exquisite Bldg., 5th Ave., cor. 46th St., N. Y. Bryant 6321. consistent with

good taste. Under the supervision f expe Estims ates furnished. on request. ROSAURIEL STUDIO Interpretive Dancing Moving pares taken of pupils to show progress. est l6th St.. New York Cit Good Workmanship. Nothing but the best is sold

children things ALVIENE DANCE ARTS Founded 1894 For Catalogue Write Thos. Irwin, Sec’y. 225 West 57th St., New wrens. in our shop. Phone 2210 Greeley. A. H.Green & Son. Est, 1892. 37 W. 37 St., N.Y. SAUER & SCHAEFER, FURRIERS. Furs to order, repaired and remodeled for particular persons Lag rad a ellent workmanship. 4 West 37th Stre Tel. Greeley 2746.

HELEN SPEER CO., Inc., 17 E. 48 St., N. Y. Newly designed children’s furniture and toys, for the nursery, may be seen now. Our specialty: Designing and furnishing nurseries: Catalogue. LOUISE MORGA Balletclass Saturday Morningsat Motel Ma estic Artistic and Modern enone ing. Also Children's classes. Studio208 W.59St.N. Y., Ph. Circle3116. ALL jaammaaen: is done under my personal supervision and at the lowest possible rates. Why not bring your old furs & let me suggest then Sa styles. M. Tepper, 120 W. 44th St., N. Y.

TOT’S TOGGERIE, 55 W. 45th St. Phone Bryant 2867. Outfitters to Children of All Ages. Swimming and Gymnasium Suits a Specialty. Charming Styles and Superior Workmanship.

cna art FURS bearing the label of J. O. Tepper are de- pendable—guaranteed to please. Sold at reason=- able prices. Remodeling and hag: eing ay furs. J.O. Tepper, 12 W. 36th St., sth Ave., N. Y.

MARY-VIRGINIA, Hand made party frocks. THEODORA URSULA IRVINE. Dramatic CHAS. HORWITZ, 21 W. aaa St., N.

Practical bathing and beach = Clothes to Art Diction. Endorsed by Edith Wynne Mat- Established 1892. Furs sold retail at BA order. See January issue page thison. Stage training. Teacher of Alice Brady. prices. Remodeling equal to new at eer 66 West 56th St., New York. Phone Circle 3235. Summer courses. Studio, 115 Carnegie Hall, N. Y. rates. Greeley 413 ae f Russi bles, silver f Sa est selection o ussian sables, silver foxes h d d es. f m and other furs. Latest Parisian styles. Whole- Cc 1rO po y r S or S __sale prices to retail customers. WELL, Surgeon-Chiropodist, Foot | PNEU FORM-—the Pneumatic Dress Form. | M. M. PECKER, 71 W. 48th St., bet. 5th & 6th Ave. Cc ointment for bruises, Toilet Powder. Cogswell s Sea Shell Tint (Liquid Nall ee ) Mail « rders solicited. 500 5th Ave., N. Y . Vand'r'b'lt 2262 Gowns fitted without personal try-on. Inflated in fitted lining gives exact igure. Corsets. Fitted Linings. Garland, 16 W. 46th Street, N Special department for remodeling, repairing, dressing and dyeing. Best of work. Satis- faction guaranteed.

The Perfect Skin Tonic and ee endorsed by phy sicians asa relief for eczemic con ditions. B. Altman & Co. & Lord & Taylor's. $1 ” bottle. Hinze Ambrosia Co., 19 E. 59th St., DR. CHARLES Flesh Food increases flesh on face, neck and hands. Removes wrinkles, de- Yerone or restores the contour of the bust. 50c. Dr. Charles Co.,752 H FultonSt., Brooklyn, N. ¥

cleaning & dyeing electrical A HIGH CLASS FURS Retailed at Manufac- turers Prices. e for Illustrations. el Quality Shop, Re 602 S. Michigan Blvd., Chicago.

Women’s and Men’s Clothing, Blankets, Cur- tains, etc. Branches Newport, New Rochelle, White Plains. Main Office 402 East 31 St., New York City. Knickerbocker Cleaning & Dyeing Co. The One Unique Electrical Shop in New York, devoted to poomfort and beauty ir the home. A selection of charm and taste at reasonable rene Walsh, 3 E. 47th St. (Just off Sth Ave.) N

gowns bought

Robert’s Vegetable Sham is a harmless means toimpart chestnut, golden, auburn and ti- tian tones to the hair; by mail $2.00with full direc tions for stated shades. Robert, 500 5thAve.,N.Y. SCHWARZ & FORGER, Cleaners of fine gowns Sport clothes properly cleaned. Address 425 Fifth Ave. (38th St. entrance), 6-8 Manhattan St., or see New York Phone Book.

MME. HELLER’S Marvelous Flesh Reducing Bath Fluid. Use a little in bath each day. Sur- rising results within 10 days. $10 bottle. M me lelier, Suive 9O1A, 15 E. 40th St., New Yok. ARTHUR CHEGNAY Expert Frenco Cleaner and Dye Gowns, suits, blouses, laces, trimmings, ete. Quick Service, Express Paid. 121 E.57thst Plaza 7198. ARMCHAIR SHOPPING This directory is just like a great department store. Each shop is offering you its leading value of the mon MME. NAFTAL pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used evening, street and dinner costumes, furs, diamonds jewelry, silver- ware. 69 West 45th St. . Tel. 670 Bryant

entertainment

BEFORE YOU DISPOSE OR SELL Your Slightly Used or Discarded Wearing Ap- gue. Jewelry, Etc., consult me. Furman first. Phone Bryant 1376.

LAN-SOL Rheumatic Bath Salts for excess uric and lactic acid. Contains principle of famous curative springs. Double treatment, $1. Drug- gists or A. G. Lansing Co., 133 W. 72d St., N. Y.

corset on PUNCH & JUDY SHOW, for Children’s par- ties, including sleight of hand and magic tricks and ventriloquism. Ambrose Jeffries, 44 Eldert St., Brooklyn, N. Y. Telephone 1479 Bushwick WE PAY CASH. PHONE BRYANT 1376. Full Value Guaranteed for Gowns, Suits, Furs, Wraps, Diamonds, Jewelry Silverware, Etc. Mme. Furman, 101 W. 47th St., N. Y. Bryant 1376

JOHN POST SKIN FOOD. | builder; perfect massage creath stimulates new vitality to the muse ioe. reat tissue t develops, $1.50. MME. CALDO Ralon de Corset,348 Madison Ave., N.Y. Murray Hill 1270. Within a oe of the Ritz and Biltmore.

fancy dress & costumes Our enormous outlet & unlimited capital Enables Us to Offer the Highest Prices Ever I Paid. Let us Convince You. rite, Phone, Send or Call. Mme. Furman, 101 W. 47th St., N. Y. Bryant 1376

Bookiet, John Post, Inc., 500 Fifth Ave., N.Y.C. SKIN BEAUTIFIER, massage cream, cleans and rejuvenates the skin. Delicately scented with oil of Rose. Massage Cream Co., 2.00 postpaid. Della Rowe 468 Pearl Street, N. Y. MME. <GALDoR creates the finest stays in America C orsets designed for all occasions. Semi- made (finished) at very short notice. FRANCESCA TEXTOR wil! rent or specially design and execute costumes for fancy dress oc- casions. Amateur plays receive personal super- vision. 104 W. 48th St. Tel. Bryant 4335.

MRS. DUFF, 151 W. 46th St., N. Y., phone Bryant 8247. Highest cash prices paid for your discarded wearing apparel. 240 Tremont St., Boston, Mass.

KATHLEEN MARY QUINLAN’S “ Mist of Dawn"’—the wonder Beauty Cream; nature's own proanct, Price $1.50. Booklet free. Kath- leen Mary Quinlan, Dept. B., 665 Fifth Ave., N.Y.

corsets TAMS—COSTUMES of every description for every occasion to hire or made to order. Every rented costume as clean as new A. W. Tams, 1600 Broadway (48th St.), N. Y. SELL TO MME. NAFTAL, 69 West 45th St., NewYork. Tel. Bryant 670. I will pay good value for your fine used evening, street and dinner frocks: also “diamonds, jewelry and silverware.

MASCARO. (William J. Brandt's Red Fox Liquid Eau de Mascaro unsurpassed for eye- brows, lashes. Will not run. Postpaid 75c. Hair Specialty Co., 24 East 21st St. GOSSARD FRONT LACED CORSETS fitted by experienced corsetieres $4.00 up. only. SBrassieres fitted, corsets to order. When you come to us for fashion sketches

RUTH BIRD pays the most consistent prices for your discarde d apparel. No picking or quib- bling. Buys everything. For satisfaction call or write. 529 W. 145th St., N. Y. Audubon 3788.

SPIRO’S Famous Specific for eliminating un- desirabie hair growth. Application simple. Price $1.60. Treatments at our parlors. Spiro's, 34 W. 46th St., and 26 W. 38tn St., New York. 30

GOSSARD Copenrs P vay get a service < as much value e corset. Every corset fitted by experienced corsetiere Olmstead Corset Co., 179 MauisonAve.,at 34th st.

FASHION SKETCH SERVICE invaluable to ladies’ tailors, dressmakers and milliners. Fifth Ave. designs. Imported and original. Send for sam- ples. Parisian Fashion Co., 15 W. 38th St., NYC.

ARMCHAIR SHOPPING This directory is just like a great department store. Each shop is offering you its leading value of the mont

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gowns & waists hotels (Continued) maids’ uniforms shoes UNUSUAL BUT NOT EXTREME, our frocks, ot d suits combine style and workman- Hh Artistic remodeling makes old gowns new. Hotel St. James. Times Sq. off Broadway. 109 W. 45th St. 4min. walk to 40 theatres & all principal shops. Much favored by women traveling without escort. TRIM, SMART UNIFORMS ( Maids, Nurses, etc.) of strong materials that hold their graceful lines. Accessories of dainty simplicity. N.Y Von Kull Co., 1 11 West 35th Street, N. Y. ~ MME. HAMA Smart Gowns ~ AIL Occasions. , order $45 up. Remodeling ail orders solicited. | 179 W. 93d St., N. Y. Tel. 1969 River. house furnishings Nurses’ Outfitting Ass'n, 425-5th Ave., Dresses, Caps and Bonnets, Coats, Aprons, ( NOREEEMY uffs, Bibs, Ready-made and to order. N UTFITTING ASS’N, 425-5th v., N. ¥. SHOECRAFT SHOP-—27 W. 38th St., N. Y., Fifth Ave. footwear, sizes 1 to 10, widths AAAA to D. Narrow feet a specialty. Send for C atalog HS and Measure Charts. Fit guaranteed. E. HAYES, Inc., 582 Fifth Ave., New York. Individual style in ladies’ shoes to order in materials and color of costumes. Write for booklet and directions in self-measurement. ERIN CASEY. Gowns for all occasions KATHER Afternoon frocks. Your material used if desired. Remodel ng also done 112 West 58th St., Circle 4451. SCHERR 500 5th Ave., New York City. ROSE Gowns of E xquisite New York. Tel. $160 BEDROOM: Daybed, Chairs, Rugs, Lamp, Tabla, Chest of Drawers and Mirror, enameled; color to order. Sketch sent. Mary manicuring THE PEDIFORME SHOE. Individuality pre- dominates in the poise, grace and appearance. The high arch, narrow heel fitting and straight toe line assure you of suprame comfort. Allen Distinctive Furniture, 77 Fifth Ave. MISS FREDERICK PEDIFORME shoes are approved by the world’s Beauty and : 7 Specialist in Manicuring. greatest authorities. By the National Board Workmanship at prices you will interiors Special attention shown school girls. of Y. W.C. A., Government Oversea workers cheerfully pay. 500 Filth Ave., N. +. C. Phone Vanderbilt 839. as Eh the only “ Perfect" shoe. ELSA M. OPPENHEIMER PROOF; Proclaimed by a million benefited RT OF ALTERATION. Original charm } yt thru slightest alteration. We spe- eialize in remodelns- Visit us or let us call, Jeanneton, Inc., 122 E. 57th St., N.Y. Plaza 4244. Sr og tga Decorator 549 West 113th St. New York City Felophene: Cathedral 7917 millinery FREDERICKS, 500 Fifth Ave., N. Y. CLARA FRE in evening and afternoon ‘troc ks anes to order. Old gowns transformed; ‘‘sto its” SANFORD SHOPS, Inc., 49 W. 45th St.,N.Y. Cc. Bryant 4565. Interior Decorations. Makers of draperies & furniture for fine homes.Sketches, samples & estimates cheerfully submitted. GERHARDT HATS Exclusive Distinctive I p 46th Street 8. 2 East (Opposite Ritz-Carlton) N. Y. and wearers as America’s most 36 West 36th St. New _York, N. es popular shoe 4 Livingston St. “Brooklyn, N N. Y. specialty shops afeature. Sketches shown. Tel. V anderbilt 839. hair jewelry bought GUIRY 7 East 48th Street Smart hats correctly priced. WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS. Beautiful, practical gifts for every occasion. Made only to order. Illus. cat. H in colors sent ENGLISH HENNA SHAMPOO powders tone the scalp, color faded or greyish hair, giv- ing a marvelous gloss _and_ bright unts, $1 Henna Specialties Co., 505-5th Ave., , * THE HIGHEST PRICES that the world has ever known given for tyre dise oe ponery of any dese ription. FURM , 103 New York City __Paim Beach aratoga on request. Wilkinson Quilt Co., Ligonier, Ind. . COLT Exchange of N. Y. Branch of the Shut-In-So- Unusual hats for unusual people. Original clety.129E.34thSt. N. Y.C. Helpscrippled mem- t 47th St Sport hats. One's own mater — used if desired. ber ot Society to become self-supporting. Fancy Phone 1376 Bryant. 13 1 E. 3 36th St., _ N. ¥. _C. Vanderbilt _1862. articles embroideries, infants’andchildren's wear. THE NESTLE WE Pay a FOR gEMELRY, diamonds, : Permanent pear + Rol 8 ver on ant sues. rite, phone e ° air-Wave or call. FURMAN, ‘orty-seventh St., mat rnit re ‘ Is the Original. New York City “Phone 1376 Bryant. € y appa S opping commissions THE NESTLE f BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSET, | MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopping. Home Outfit Belt and Brassiere. Exclusive and invisible en- | Will shop with you or send anything on ap- for Permanent Waving. jewe ry largement feature. Dress as usual. W rite for | proval. Services free. Send for bulletin. Over 3000 in use. catalogue No. 15. Berthe May, 1OE.46thSt.,N.Y. 366 Fifth A venue, New York City THE NESTLE TREATMENT for Children | HIGHEST PRICES PAID for Ladies’ discard- | Berthe May’s Useful Publications on . F. M. MONTE Apply for illustrated booklet. ed gowns, furs, wraps, diamonds, jewelry, gold, Maternity, and Better Babies—-Care of the Shopper, twelve years’ experience. Paris and C. Nestle Co., silver, etc. Mail or phone calls attended to. mother and of the Baby. Write for list New York. No charge. References. 144 East 657 Fifth Avenue, New York. Mrs. 8. Cohen, 629 6th Avenue. 4676 Greeley. Berthe May, 10 East 46th St. Now York. 40th St.. N. Y. C. Tel. Murray Hill, 9766. CALL AT SCHAEFFER’S if you want expert | S. WYLER pays hishest prices for pearls, dia- oan 7 MISS GUTHMAN, New York Shopper. personal attention for a permanent wave. Posi- monds & other precious stones, also platinum, Will shop with you or send anything on approval. tively no friz or kink. J. Schaeffer, 542 Fifth | gold & silver; (confidential). Est. 30 yrs. Bank monuments Service Free. Avenue. Phone: Murray Hill 5772. references. 661 Fifth Ave., at 52d St., N. Y. C. Reference paciired. 309 W. 99th St., N. ¥. C, Permanent Hair Wave $1.00 a Curl. Spe- | SEND TOA. S. BORG by mail or express any | CEMETERY MEMORIALS of exclusive de- | MRS. MARION P. WEIGLE, smart seca clalist in treating prematurely gray hair. Hair diamonds, old gold, silver, platinum, antiques, | sign for discriminating clientele. Individual Shops for you or with you free of charge Any- goods made up. $5.00 per ounce and UD; en. pawn tickets, artificial teeth. Cash at once. consideration in every case. Sketches upon re thing sent on approval. C PapCroninE. Refer- let. Chas. Frey, 11 E. 41 St.(at 5th Ave.) . ¥. 146 West 23rd Street, New » quest. The Davis Memorial Co., Syracuse, N.Y. ences. 306 W. 99th St., N. Y. C. Riverside 9132. CROWN OF GOLD SHAMPOO. For tlonde CASH FOR JEWELRY, Diamonds, Gems, The CHICAGO SHOPPER. Advice and shop- and auburn hair. Prevents darkening; accentu- | Gold, Silver, new or broken. Prices now ex- - ] : : piv of every variety Ideas for tourists. Send ates the red and golden tints. Not a dye or | ceptionally high. Bet. 40 years. Mme. Naftal, musica instruction 12c for ‘Where to Dine, Dance Shop."" Mary bleach. Used with 69 West 45th St., N. Y. el. Bryant 670. Anderson, Marshall Field Bldg., C hicago. CROWN OF GOLD TONIC. Benefits ‘‘drab” HIGHEST PRICES, cash for your Diamonds,’ | TEACHER AND PIANIST AT LIBERTY. or “faded” hair. Imparts a beautiful golden | Old Gold, Bonds, discarded jewelry, Crowns, Instruction in Piano and Harmony. sheen. $1 each bottle. Original Toilet Prepara- Bridges, Platinum, Silver. Send by mail or ex- ~., Miss Livingston S 1oOTt stories wante tions Co., 222H Madison Square Sta., N. y a press. I.C. Cohen, 1229 12th,.Washington, D.C. Columbus 5781. 326 West End Ave., New York NEOS-HENNE for grey & faded hair. Any CASH IMMEDIATELY for Pawn Tickets $50 to $150 A WEEK, Writing Stories and shade from blonde to black. Applied in all up- Diamonds, Precious Stones and gE strict- Photo Plays. Send for Special Free Offer. to-date Beauty & Hair Dressing Parlors; write fo ly confidential. Forgotston’s, 503 Fifth Ave., nuts Department ‘'15,"" New York pueerary Bureau. information to Neos Co., 366 Fifth Ave. North-East corner 42nd St., New Yc 145 W. 36th St., New York City CRUDOL ‘“‘Nature’s Hair Tonic” Removes a andruff and prev — falling hair. ) and 30 cents the Tube. The Crudol vs o., Inc., 1777 Broadway, N. Y. C Frank C. Hutchinson Buys and other precious stones, also individual pieces of jewelry or Jewelry Estates to be settled. orsend 366 FifthAvenue. Telephone Greeley 5489. ames FROM SHELLERS DIRECT TO YOU Shelled Pecans Shelled Black Walnuts Shelled Brazil Nuts taffy MILLIUS Parisian Permanent Wave a la Marcel; Scalp Treatment; Vegetable Compound for gs halt. Millius, 13 W. 38th St., and Plaza Hotel, Cc, SH HONGUT, 170 Broadway, cor. Maiden Lane, » ortlandt 501. High-class Jewels of ev ery , ription. Diamonds, Pearls, etc., purchased for cash. Individual pieces or estates. Shelled English Walnuts Shelled Filberts Shelled Pignolia Nuts Shelled Cashew Nuts BALTIMORE TAFFIES THE ORIGINAL Old Fashioned Cocoanut Molasses Taffy Old Fashioned Peanut wesnanes Tafly Old Fashioned English Toff PREMATURELY GREY HAIR Quickly re- stored with one application of Andre's Or ental Hair Coloring. Safe, harmless. All shades. Postp'd $2. _ Literature on req. Andre, 57 W. 39th St., N.Y GHEST PRICES PAID for old jewelry, diamonds, platinum, gold, silver, false teeth. Goods returned in 10 days if you're not satisfied. Ohio Smelting & Ref.Co.,239 Lennox Bldg.,Cleveland, O. Shelled Salted Almonds Pistachio Nuts Chinese Nuts India Nuts Old Fashioned Butter Scotch Old Fashioned Molasses Taffy Old Fashioned Chocolate or Maple Fudge Made in the good old English style HELENE HENNA SHAMPOO cleanse apd beautifies hair; wonderful results. 75c & Ps Cleo-Henna tint: red-gold or black, $1.25. lace dyeing Egyptian Imp. Co. Dept. H., 29 Rector St.,N.Y.C. Richard 501 Fifth Ave., Suite 914 Specialist in Permanent Hair Waving Telephone Vanderbilt 4070. LACE DYEING. ArthurChegnay,expert French cleaner and dyer. Laces, chiffons, etc., dyed to match sample in 12 hours. Blouses dyed to match suits. 121 East 57th St., Plaza 7198. Paper Shell Pecans 50 per pound (Sent Postpaid) — ome McNutt 19 East 125th St. York. — postpaid check or money order dne and a halt pound. box for $1.00 Baltimore beeen Co., 119 East 126% St., New York City oriental rugs DEUBERT & AUGUST Hair Sposialiet. Permanent Hair Waving—Hair ‘oloring— Ex apere Scalp Treatment. 10 West 46th Street New York City ladies’ tailors PERMANENT HAIR WAVING. Three different kinds of — From Marcel to Light Leon, 28 W. 46th St., Phone Bry a 4404 J. TUZZOLI, now at 27 West 46th St., ¥.. makes a suit for $90 which cannot be dupli eated under $125. Quality and material fault- less. Furs and remodeling. Spring Models ready. BERTHA-BURKETT CO., Hair Specialists, Scientific scalp treatment. Makers of modish hair goods. Experts in hair coloring. Using our own product. Application Parlors, 22 W.329thSt., N.Y. D. VELTRY. Mil.dy’s tailor. Creator of exclu- sive —, costs and —s atle3s than ae wear Yr Furs new and remodeled Mail orders invited. 425 5th Ave., N. Y. C. HIGHEST PRICES paid for Oriental rugs; if in prereae will pay all charges; if pledsed will redeem. U.S. Trading Co., 206 West 42d St. Phone 8160 Bryant. patterns PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE for Ladies’ and Children’s garments; picture or description; reasonable prices, perfect fit. Mail orders a spe- cialty. Mrs. Weisz, 111 Lexington Ave., N. Y. C. unusual wifes TAPESTRIES of Historic Buropean Views. Mi- lan, Venice, Naples, Rome,19x57 in. In exact color reproductions, suitable for wall or table, $4.50 ea. Photos mailed. Harris Imp., 324 5th Ave., N. Y. WONG YUEN & CO., Inc. Chinese and Japanese Importers—Lamps, Shades, Curios, Jades, smbroideries, ete. At- tractive prices. Visit us. 285-287 5th Ave, N.Y. C. A MOS1 PLEASING GIFT for any occasion is an “Art Box” of ——— flowers — ae unimposing shop. oems in flowers you. 62 West 40th Street. "Tiaasse 144. Vanderbilt PROMINENT STARS have their hair waved here. Why don’t you? No kinks, but a beauti- ful wave, well nigh a marcel. My own original method. Booklet. Robert, 500 5th Ave., N. Y. TAILORED GOWNS REMODELED to pre- vailing styles. 20 years experience. Remodeling of furs. J. H. Comstock, 286 Fifth Avenue at 30th St., New York City. Telephone Madison Sq. 158. WILLIAMS AND ROSSEL, experts in per- manent waving, hair coloring and hair goods. 153 West 44th St., opp. Claridge spotet, 1 flight up. Phone Bryant 945 HALLEN TAILORED SUITS Exclusiva Designs to meet | ai. Tastes 4E. 46th St., N. ¥ New models now ready. “HAIR SERUM” grows hair. Since its = J. LABES, 16 West 45 St., New York, nea High grade Ladies Tailoring at permanent hair wave Let SIMON’S perfected permanent wave beautify peg ha nd preserve your attractive- nass. Save time in dressing and inconvenience with night curlers. Guaranteed for six months. WHY perfected: -— Sitnon’s personal atsontion. Simon's exclusive method of winding t “DOLLY WALKER’’—the doll who walks, bows, kneels and sits naturally without mechan- ism. 28 inches tall. Beautiful removable clothes. Price $10.00. With long curly wig, $12.50. _ wentoete of gifts for Circular on re vet. grown-ups and c The home of the aelning doll. Bessie Frey's Gift Shop, S81 Fifth Ave., N. ¥. pleat in rete ag wisagpont have been pe Fifth Ave. Simon's new steaming process. Price $15 ‘00 up. h | l if cations made } - y-to- § J B 5. Ce a aaa pieChmleRl | Ready-to-Wear (prices, SDOrt Sul, De a ete Be hase oad wholesale gifts mpoaaa: TRANSFORMATIONS and all kinds of hair goods. Hair coloring with Chabrier French Henna. Price $5.00 a »0X. Manuel, 29 E. 48th St., New Y ork City. lamps & shades CARL Specialist in Permanent Hair W aving Formerly with + Sa a ame Hotel 5 Columbus Circle, N. Y. Colu mbus 2410 CHINESE, Assyrian, Roman, Polychrome and Bronze Reproductions: also Nubian Girl, Buddah. Cameland Elephant Bases.Com .$10-25 7 oe Photos mailed. Harris, 324 Fifth Ave., N. Y. ie J. GIRAUD FILS; Paris Grasse (France) 20 generous samples of our latest creation in French Perfumes will be sent with catalog on re- t., J.M.Debans, 500 5th Ave., N.Y. ceipt of $2.Ag BABY GIFTS that are different. Something always new. Dolls, animals, roly-polies, plates, carriage sets, rattles, bath toys, water balls. Bailey & Bailey, 27 E. 22nd St., N. Y. C., Dept. H. wedding stationery hotels Creators and Designers of Unusual Lamps and shades, to harmonize with any decorative schemes; also reproductions. WALSH, 275 Madison Ave., New York City. HOTEL MARTHA WASHINGTON, 29 East St. For women. Rooms $1.50 a day u cane Meals a la carte; also table d'‘hote. Luncheon 50c. Dinner 65c. Booklet Free. leather be a 72d St., bet. B’way & 1 block to Central Park. 2, & luxury combined with rates. Send for Bklet. Eugene Cable, Mer. Hotel Hargrave Columbus bts NW. ¥ omfort, refinem mod MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY REMOVAL. Now at 159 East 51st St., N.Y.C., LexingtonAve. Tooled & illuminated Leather ‘screens, Jewel boxes, Book Ends, Lamps, Shades, Novelties. pictures **MOTHER GOOSE” series by Jessie Willcox Smith, eighteen subjects, size 12x14 ins. $4.50 per set. 25c each postpaid. CATALOG—Oover 200 pictures sent on receipt of postage. All deliveries guaranteed. Cc osmopolitan Print Department 119 West 40th St., New York City EVERETT WADDEY CO., for a generation has insured highest quality engraved Wedding Invitations at penscneie prices, Book of Wed- ding Etiquette free. . 11th St., Richmond, Va. 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $8.50 or invitations, hand-engraved, 2 sets of envelopes. 100 Calling Cards. $2.00. Write for samples. B. Ott Engraving Co., 1031 Chestnut St., Phila. yarns HOTEL WEBSTER, 40 W. 45th St., nr. 5th Ave. city’s quietest street. Most beautiful of N.Y.’s ou hotels. Favored by women traveling alone. enter shopping district. Chas. McHugh, mer. HOTEL WOLCOTT, 3ist Street At Fifth Avenue, New York al Very desirable for ladie traveling alone. ‘Booklet. linens repairing ORIGINAL CREATIONS in Hand Knitted garments. A complete stock of yarns. Corps of instructors. Elsa DaEsesons, 400 Fifth Ave., New York, Opposite Tiffany ITALIAN LINENS AND LACES Antique Desivns Imported Lingerie Blouses Ten to Forty Dollars G. and V. PILLORI, 544 Madison Ave., N. Y.C, ALICE C. DUFFEY—1 W. 34th St., N. Y. Formerly with Tiffany & Co., Tel. Greeley 3735. Jewelry and Bead Bag Repairing. Pear! Stringing by Appointment. KIMMO SILK—The new pure Kimmo Silk ex- tensively used for knitting sweaters, socks, scarfs, hats, etc. Guaranteed to wash. All shades, Ask for Kimmo Silk at any Specialty Shop. 31

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Outfits for Spring's Sunshine and Breezes HEN the frogs begin to peep in the marshland, and the birds begin to chirp in the trees, the spirit of sport and the call of the fields prompt the replenishment of the sporting wardrobe. The Abercrombie & Fitch new productions for Spring are legion. ‘They pass current every- where as the smartest possible equipment for the outdoors woman and man— on the golf links, in the clouds, along the trout streams, motoring, riding or crossing the Atlantic. HAT so attunes one to outdoor enjoy- ment as a hat which poises gracefully above bronzed cheeks and windswept locks—and which does not blow off? All the Aber- crombie & Fitch hats are designed for genuine sport use, and are quite in the picture in town. (2s 2 which are ample _ protection against Spring’s not- always-playful breezes, yet too light to be bur- densome—which slip on and off easily and look very smart either way. Long coats, jackets or windbreaks, of tweeds, leather, sporting plaids or camel's hair. WEEDS, homespuns and other hand- loom sporting materials from England, Scotland and Ireland —serges, flannels, sporting silks and tricotines— the woman in search of a city-and-country suit or a OR the woman or girl of unusual ac- tivity in sport— whether she flies or fishes, shoots or drives travel outfit has a world of materials from which to choose—and all the Abercrombie & Fitch original models. a racing car, the Aber- crombie & Fitch outfit is the final word of smartness and pro- priety—complete to the last detail. We TE for our new Spring ' f ’ 2; es pthc booklet, picturing sport- . } J e ing, travel and country clothes. ef ‘ shirts and skirts, to boots and_ hosiery, which smack of the sport for which they are to be used, the Abercrombie & Fitch assortments cover the field. Abercrombie & Fitch Co- Ezra H. Fitch, President Madison Avenue and Forty-fifth Street, New York “THE GREATEST SPORTING GOODS STORE IN THE WORLD”

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dir Giinaliites f / ee —the exclusive Derjume with a touch of the-Orient 1G Rue de la Paix PARIS x aa we %

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Not everyone who desires to purchase a National Sextet will be able to do so this season. Because of our lifelong policy of limited produc- tion we have often been criticized as ultra-conserv- ative. We take pride in that criticism, for it has always been our aim to build only as many National cars as we could build we//. And since our standards have been rather high, our out- put has been moderate. But, for this very reason, motorists of experience have come to respect highly the name National. They buy our automobiles with a conscious feeling of safety such as they might experience when investing in a government bond or other gilt-edged security. Our latest car, the National Sextet, is finding z#s owners largely among such clientele. It is an unusually good car, quite the best we have ever built,and we wish we might consistently build them in greater number. Since we can not, it must be a case of first come, first served. NATIONAL MOTOR CAR & VEHICLE CORPORATION, INDIANAPOLIS Twentieth Successful Year

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TIME: The Present. SCENE: Salon of Joseph. (The inimitable Joseph, whose creations thrill the heart of woman.) HE velvet curtains part—a vision glides between. A gasp—“Could anyone but Joseph fashion that!’ And then another ripples by; statuesque and dark, petite and fair they come. Type follows type, each gowned as only Joseph’s art could gown, well-poised, each figure fairer than the last. Could such lithe grace and silhouette be yours? POSED IN THE SALON OF JOSEPH Could Joseph give you lines as clean and smooth as these? And Joseph answers “Yes, but Madame must be corseted as are the forms on which I build my gowns.” The Redfern Corset is Joseph's choice for all his mannequins. The Redfern Corsets slender, firm but pliant lines are those on which Joseph drapes and fits his works of art. Seip FRONT LACE—BACK LACE

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f Where William Penr. held sway Philadelphia | iii MWC | Tages of handling is comparative. The ocean liner is easy to handle in the open ocean with leagues of water in which to maneuver. but the Silhouette Five is like the swift white launch darting in and out among the harbor shipping. It is instantly responsive to the gentlest pressure. The Jordan arrangement of the steering apparatus is a marvel of precise control. The perfect balance of the car, the careful distribution of weight, the length and strength of springs and the delicate suspension of all contribute to unerring forward motion, with no side-sway. In its application of power, the Jordan Silhouette is supreme. Acceleration is not a leap but a swift, plane-like glide. There is no jerking or struggling—the road simply flows past. Women appreciate the ease and restfulness of driving the Silhouette Five as they appreciate its fashionable lines, its harmonious coloring and its perfect appointments. They welcome a distinctly fine light car—a five passenger car in which quality has been made the compelling ideal. JORDAN MOTOR CAR CO., Inc., Cleveland, Ohio

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ZCWEXDAR .

UNQUESTIONABLY NO MORE EXQUISITE FABRICS ARE MADE IN AMERICA THAN WEXBAR J SILICS AT EXCLUSIVE SHOPS THE COUNTRY OVER

WECHSLER DARDER STLK- COM PANY FOURTH AVENUE AT TWENTIETH STREET. N-Y

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ORESS NCE a frock has been worn without the proper protec- tion under the arms—it never feels quite dainty and wholesome again. Aside from un- sightly discoloration, it has lost a bit of its original freshness. Fastidious women select their dress shields carefully—and invariably their choice is White Clover Dress Shields. White Clover Dress Shields are made of the best materials. Soft and pliant, they slip gracefully into the curve of the arm. In pink, white and black. Of silk- covered or fine nainsook cover mate- rial. . All White Clover Dress Shields are washable ! If you have difficulty in obtaining just the Omo Shields you wish, send for Booklet 25-A and name of nearest dealer. THE OMO MANUFACTURING CO, Middletown, Conn. Malis COVER SHIELOS Ef PARE ers TY SN Tate a) aia

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Ss NEWYORK 7 del FITS ; eet OF LIKE. 4 GLOve "HE FOP HAND Look for this trademark in the shoes you buy SOME DAY I’M GOING TO WEAR SHOES LIKE MOTHERS— MADE OF ‘EB&C KID I was with her when she bought them. We came from the dress- makers, and Mother had some samples with her. She showed them to the salesman and said: “I want shoes to go with these} and he took them and brought back shoes that blended perfectly. He told her that they were made of “F. B & C.” KIDSKIN and that the smartest ladies were wearing them. Then he showed her the trade-mark inside and said that proved they were the genuine. When we were leaving the man said “F. B & C.” White Wash- able Kid was going to be the thing for Spring and Summer. * * * “F.B&C.”, shown ina range of lovely blending shades, is the KIDSKIN of which the finest shoes are made. “SHOE TIPS” illustrated in colors, will show you the latest styles in footwear. WRITE For IT. FASHION PUBLICITY COMPANY posiane S In Conjunction With oy "=" = AMALGAMATED = «= Look for LE A T H ER _ Look for this trade- COMPANIES, Inc. this trade- markin . mark in your col. DEPARTMENT H your ored shoes NEW YORK CITY whiteshocs “F. B & C.” SHOE DRESSING MEANS A LONGER LIFE AND A BRIGHTER FINISH COPYRIGHT 1920 ALC. Inc

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QT TIO SC KING# “The Car o of We Regrets” — who would willingly pay more than is asked for the King find the necessity gone when ac- quainted with this pioneer Eight’s ae remarkable road performance and . handsome coach work. There are 2 one hundred points of further refine- ment in the 1920 models. TOURING—-FOURSOME—ROAD-KING—LIMOUDAN KING MOTOR CAR COMPANY °.° DETROIT 36

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Every silken fold adds a touch of alluring loveliness BEAVER SILKS offer the enchanting charm of Oriental lands. The very feel of their luxurious softness sends a thrill of delight to the feminine heart. In each yard of BEAVER SILKS irresistible beauty is interwoven with appreciable durability. It satisfies the de- sires of both the quiet and frivolous taste. Look for the Rope Weave Selvage—the identifying mark of the McLANE quality. McLANE SILK CO., Inc. 463 FOURTH AVENUE NEW YORK McLane’s Beaver Silks 37

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FSET WE REEE Pe HT Ie RSP EHS 5 rr ovy Cave RSS RR Tare i ’ oti lire » hi " WEE anee ofS i, Y¥s. aan ui ysetiin e ee “ “ bf ee itt , 4 f ? 5 & a i if rh ’ i ‘ putt ope? \ ; } re ‘ % +; } , pe r a ‘ rs ane f ~ ; is oo ‘np at we y at bores? id _, | m ow v« ae EB pest? rage tt, rien t* he yttete? oF o oy, Pept fet Sere Veda ae eoS AS ; Cc © Boston, Mass. Pe Minnesota 82 Washington St., 803 S. Hill Street,-Los Angeles * a ” 7 on ——~ : { —— tf a RS ; & : eR Bat a i ‘ Food Preservat Cal IN ALL PRINCIPAL CITIES BRANCHES IN THE ORIGINAL SIPHON REFRIGERATOR 772 Arcade Street, Saint Paul REPRESENTATIVES SEEGER REFRIGERATOR COMPANY Madison Avenue, New York The Last Word a aan Te ; , ~ . . ) aia Bitsy es “2s if ee i x t vives i Pra ; bagi | os Hi. ith Mine , \ 2 Re ; Kite th, “ nis of th Rigi. ae a 2 i yah oe Ph ine : Aig * ‘ ” cic UiS caesar: ata ikiaaree cae tae te it) it iMeinfits ‘Wilh "

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T VAQas THAT » ENDURE Wi ” hf ~ The works of man that endure are all alike; vitalized by the same spark. That spark is the striving for an ideal perfection that for- gets immediate profit. When the Apperson Brothers built with their own hands the first mechanically suc- cessful automobile, their goal was achieve- ment of an ideal perfection. And as Apperson has grown, this spirit has never changed. It has kept the Appersons breaking trail for more than a quarter of a century. It has endowed every Apperson car with enduring worth. Appersons stay at their best a long, long time. Owners of old Apperson Sixes and Fours still drive them today, finding it difficult to believe that the Apper- son Eight can be an improvement. Yet the Apperson Eight is a big advance. It has eighty less parts. Astonishing accelera- tion—from 1 to 40 miles an hour in 40 sec- onds. This shows the motor’s flexibility and tremendous power. And the car is so perfectly balanced that the brake curbs the speed from 40 miles an hour to a dead stop in 4 seconds—4o yards. These outstanding superiorities represent the excellence of the whole car and its every part. And Apperson excellence endures. DRIVE an Apperson First—Then Decide. ApPEeRsSON BrotTHers AUTOMOBILE Company, Kokomo, Indiana APPEAR SOSG The Eight with Eighty Less Parts 39

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EAUTY, undeniable, com- bined with a quiet dignity and an air of unusual mechanical worthiness—these are the eter- nal qualities of this aluminum motored Premier. Fundamen- Showing the exhaust side of Premier's ex- clusive aluminum engine. Note its tally it is a big-hearted, lovable simplicity and the cenalinen ef its design. Also note the car, with no apparent bottom eonvsnions ond tag. I f ical position of to the generosity of its power the basery and endurance. And its gears are shifted—electrically, an advantage enjoyed by no other motor car. M CORPORA TION INDIANAPOLIS:"U SA ALUMINUM ee WITH MAGNETIC GEAR SH Fe FT

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Rgevie is preferred! Mavis Face Pow- der is more delicate and it stays on better. Mavis Rouge blends perfectly with your complexion. Mavis Talc is the larg- est selling talc in the world! Mavis Perfume, Toilet Water, Sachet, Soap— all the Mavis prepara- tions — with their won- derfully delightful fra- grance—combine to make you truly IRRESISTIBLE! Send 15c. to Vivaudou, Times Bldg., N. Y., for a generous sample of Mavis perfume—or better still, ask for any one of the delightful Mavis preparations at any toilet goods counter.

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NOiOne® ii i \ t aS ——_—_— TEVES NONOUOnr9OnrG@uOuOuS vOvgu HOvG1@vQOn@ ~ So Crane Valves—all types, all sizes—are made to supply every need aie ah Twenty Thousand Products There is striking proof of the universal character of Crane service in the fact that no less than 20,000 articles—bathroom and kitchen appointments; heating, ventilating and vacuum cleaning systems; valves, fittings and steam specialties and plumbing and sanitary adjuncts in general—are made by CRANE In addition, thousands ot articles supplemental to the Crane line are manufactured by other firms from Crane patterns and designs, thus preserving uniformity of quality. When you can have the reliability you seek, in any one of Twenty Thousand specified forms, by the simple expedient of specifying “Crane,” there can be no reason for accepting anything less definite and complete. The practical co-operation of our Engineering De- partment is always available to architects, builders and owners. Advise us of your requirements. THERE IS A NEAR-BY CRANE BRANCH TO RENDER CRANE SERVICE Boston Baltimore Knoxville St. Louis Grand Rapids Fargo Portland Springfield Washington Birmingham Kansas City Davenport Watertown Pocatello Bridgeport Albany Memphis Terre Haute Des Moines Aberdeen Salt Lake City New York Syracuse Little Rock Cincinnati Omaha Great Falls Ogden Brooklyn Buffalo Muskogee Indianapolis Sioux City Billings Sacramento Philadelphia Rochester Tulsa Detroit St. Paul Spokane Oakland Newark Savannah Oklahoma City Chicago Minneapolis Seattle San Francisco Camden Atlanta Wichita Rockford Duiu Tacoma Los Angeles CRANE CO. 836 S. MICHIGAN AVE. CHICAGO VALVES~ PIPE FITTINGS ~ SANITARY FIXTURES CRANE EXHIBIT ROOMS 23 WEST 44% ST.NEW YORK CITY TO WHICH THE PUBLIC IS CORDIALLY INVITED GRANCHES: FIFTY-SIX LEADING CITIES + WORKS: CHICAGO. BRIDGEPORD, ———y a Qi Siois 9) MANPUSIS ION IOigil MSS USMS MST SULA ION) y"@ a ee ‘! 1Ggug ———— ee Se = a —— 4S Ad TOMO MO MOM Uk MU DOL DL OLA

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a rr Many a dance goes begging when the other attraction is Nasisco—and there’s many a longing glance toward the refreshment table as the dance goes on. Nasisco is as truly queen of the dance as it is queen of desserts. Two other welcome partners are Anoia and Ramona—so captivat- ing, sO festive, sO fascinating. Sold in the famous In-er-seal Trade Mark package NATIONAL BISCUIT COMPANY C)ueen of the Dance |

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HE unusual genius of Kissel has given added distinction to the custom-built motor car. Coach designing and finish of hand-wrought appearance-the Kissel custom-built chassis with the Kissel custom-built motor —an incomparable combination. “The Aristocrats of Motordom” mailed on request, featuring the 3 open and 3 closed models, displayed by nearest Kissel dealer. KISSEL MOTOR CAR CO. Hartford, Wisconsin, U.S. A.

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(For Women and Girls) conspicuous. “Best of all, Mother, in every BETTY WALES dress, you can get the same effect. She creates exclusive designs for all occasions. After this we can buy our frocks and gowns together.” Sizes: Misses’ 14 to 20; Women’s 34 to 44 Betty Wales Dresses are sold by only one store in each vicinity and are absolutely guaranteed to give satisfaction, 504 Bocy Building New York City

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LEADING STORES IN LEADING CITIES

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4 ' | | PLE I LER IOG ET EBA

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SATEEN.

=>. v <Vanit ty“ fair SitkK UNDERWEAR

Vanity Fair Deuble-Back Knicker Ne, 2410 Four whole inches longer than the ordinary vest— and straps that stay on the shoulder! EW things can be more uncomfort- able and annoying than a too short undervest which rolls up under the corset. These extra four inches on the Vanity Fair vest are just what is needed to over- come it. Then too, one might have the shoul- ders of an Atlas, but that would never keep the shoulder straps of dainty un- derthings from frisking down one’s arm. And what can so thoroughly mar the effect of one’s smart georgette or organdie? There’s a place for shoulder straps, and that is neatly on the shoulder! That is just where the Vanity Fair \\ \\

| Vanity Fair yD Vest, Ne. 14822 eid shoulder straps remain, too. Examine a Vanity Fair Plus-4-Inch Vest and you'll see that the shoulder straps are closer together in back than in front—it’s this angle that keeps them from slipping! In Knickers, Union Suits, Envelope Che- mise, Pettibockers and Vanties, you'll find those same special touches that distinguish Vanity Fair from other silk underwear. All Vanity Fair underthings are made of Vanity Fair’s lustrous, lasting glove- silk. VanityTJair Silk Mills, reavine, Pa. Makers of Vanity Fair Silk Underwear and Silk Gloves Plus-4-Inch

ee

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SRE eB oo RR EE “THAT WELL-DRESSED LOOK” THE Dorset This little suit breathes smartness in every line. The straight back is just as “easy to look at” as the Tuxedo front! The pockets are different in their “J” cut, the sleeves have a tiny slash at the wrist, and the belt is of self material. The skirt has the same style pockets as the coat and a centre plait in back for walking comfort. In Silvertone Sport- spun the colors are Oxford, Navy, Copen, Beaver and Reindeer; in plain Sport- spun they are Marine, Jade, Beaver and Tan. (fal Tue EXETER In Silvertone Sportspun comes this little suit. The square collar is interesting and is also convertible! The stitching on the coat is well placed, the pockets have a tonneau disposition, and the back effects a wide box plait. The belt is of self fabric with a dumb bell fastening. The skirt is slim of hip but good walking width. Oxford, Navy, Copen, Beaver and Reindeer are the colors. $55, up to $85. Tailor-mades The Wooltex signature embroidered on white satin and fastened in the collar of your suit or coat means a tailor-made which will give you “ That Well-Dressed Look” for the life of the tailor-made! Wooltex Tailor-made Sportspun Suits are priced at $39.50, $45, HILE we are lavish of thought and care in selecting our velour and tricotine, serge and peachbloom suits, some of us are a bit indifferent about our sports suits. “A sports suit is a sports suit, wool jersey is wool jersey’? we may THE CAVENDISH Slim and boyish, this litile suit shows an inverted box plait in the back centre from collar to coat hem. Two shorter box plaits are also there, and the belt runs through these plaits. The cuff is slashed at the wrist and the pockets are four and slanting! _ The stitching on the coat front 1s crisp and well done. The skirt has the inverted plait in back for walking width, You may choose it in either plain Sportspun or Sportspun Tweed. The colors of the former are Marine, Jade, Beaver and Tan, while the latter are Tan, Olive, Brown and Blue Tweeds. OE we TueE CLIFTON You may have this in Silvertone Sport- spun or plain Sportspun; in Silvertone the colors are Oxford, Navy, Copen, Beaver and Reindeer, while in the plain they are Marine, Jade, Beaver and Tan. Cord stitching 1s a@ distinguishing note in this suit—the pockets too, resembling huge box plaits, are unusual. Both skirt and coat belt are corded, and alto- gether, it’s a wide-awake looking litile tailor-made! reason and then dismiss the subject. As a matter of fact, poor material and bad tailoring arenever more conspicuous than in a sports suit. An inferior piece of cloth may look attractive when you buy it, but it doesn’t take long for a stretchy piece of material to sag over the shoulder line, to bulge in back from a sitting posture, and, yes, even to display a-weakness for knee pockets! Wooltex Sportspun is a real sports fabric—light enough for summer wear but tightly, firmly woven. And then, of course, Wooltex tailoring makes all the difference in the world. Wooltex Sport- spun suits are cut for an active existence! That swagger “care- less” air is the result of a careful study and careful tailoring. The collar is as accurately cut to lie flat against the neck as in a fur-trimmed duvetyn! ‘The shoulder line-allows free play to-the arm, but still retains a narrow trimness. The skirts are of correct fullness—you can take a free stride without imperilling the sean of your skirt or its smooth contour! Remember—the Wooltex signature is in every genuine ¥ 2x Sportspun, too! When you’re looking for your Wooltex Sportspun, ask th« sales- person for ‘The Tailored Woman ”—it’s a magazine of prescnt and coming fashions. If you prefer, write us, and we wi!: ma’! 1" to you. Wooltex Tailor-mades are sold exclusively in New York by The Tailored Woman, Fifth Avenue at Fiftieth Street. For the name of the shop nearest your home, write us. The H. Black Company Cleveland:New York: © The H. Black Co., 1970 49

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iy \—- @ > y a ££ THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CAR IN AMERICA HE selection of a Paige Sedan is a mark of good taste as well as good judgment. For this smart model is as beautiful as it is practical. In every line of its distinctive design, as well as in every detail of its luxurious appointments, it presents the finest expression of the coachmaker’s art. From the standpoint of practical utility, it affords a maximum of motoring comfort, independent of both climate and weather. And its commodious interior sets a new standard of luxurious comfort. Won't you inspect this beautiful creation at our Dealers’ show rooms? PAIGE-DETROIT MOTOR CAR COMPANY, DETROIT, Michigan Manufacturers of Paige Motor Cars and Motor Trucks

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———————S———, &, x ———

WE — J -

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Left: Style 1-229: Aberdeen Tweed—latest fashionable overchecks. The stitched strap down thé back and around inset pockets, enhances the beauty of this typical English lounge suit. Center: Style 202: Kenweave Jersey, in Sponge Tan, Navy, White, Taupe and Brown. Tiny tucks ornament the back. Darts impart pinched effect and girlish slender lines. Right: Style 12601: Genuine Camel’s Hair Cloth. Very popular in beautiful shades of Tan. The back features two inverted plaits. An undeniably youthful effect, for street or sports wear. Kenyon Coats, Suits, Weatherproofs and Waterproofs, in fashion’s latest decree, are on sale at best shops in the United States and Canada. Style card with name of local Merchant will be mailed on request. NEW YORK C. KENYON COMPANY ? CHICAGO . Fifth Ave. Bldg., 23rd St. & 5th Ave. NEW YORK 233 Jackson Blvd. at Franklin St.

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oS So SR Sarl oe ay 3 4, Otiachue, as — i Bat ee le a Rl ah \) ” Ty : elu a he cg raw a L fF fy) AEN > ~ sens sacra ri i Mn enakdo [AUN aS Scanidiniedital an 2% ‘oe Ura: id\\ if oe I i & codlow ond or ys Kt U pens sa ft Hok= Sliad -veile Mond a © it Wa. i te aud ‘adud. $3q5- At panpal otl aud ee ae Zab 1 Tr. Umm at — Akan on ae rp oud si b. One, 3245 —— Not —— om Rowse Tia, a Kicked enowsw~ VF ee, @ &- £395 ge Seecaety vets St bob td racine GU Mchad- BAO buona ofd. 89s ae ea Jt Meg Erie c omnes - ag ene o0a'2 95

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Zz Ss H Where Lies the charm~ IN BARON DE MEYERS MOST BEAUTIFUL FOOT IN AMERICA i rEsER. HY did he pick this particular foot—certainly because of the foot’s graceful freedom, its delicate beauty, its slender charm. Was it not also because of that final touch of loveliness which a Dorothy Dodd Shoe gives to any foot ? _ Try Dorothy Dodd Shoes yourself. Notice how you feel certain of style; how your feet are utterly comfortable; how they are really more graceful than ever before. And you can wear Dorothy Dodd Shoes day pw day and they will hold their shape to the last. Pick that style that just meets your individual fancy, high or low, smart or conservative. You will find them in all the prevalently fashionable models and leathers. A most attractive feature of Dorothy The Dorothy Dodd Style Book, which contains a Dodd Shoes is that they can be had few of Baron De Meyer’s gravures—untouched photo- in Shoe Soap Kid, exquisite black graphs like the one above shows how Dorothy Dodd leather of almost velvety softness with . . pronounced wearing qualities. Shoe Shoes will look on your feet ; how these shoes will Soap Kid will not crack or scale and add grace to an already graceful foot. Be sure to will always hold its shape. write today for this exquisite little book. DOROTHY DODD SHOE COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. O EE S O F E a ¢€ . fhe * 2 (a SJ ©0dDS Co 1920 54

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ERWARE OV dt ddd A dhahhedh dd ddd Ad Addddadédddédaé dae LZ — <9, —— SY W VAD ‘de Ye Oe

_ a fine but a sound distinction that there is a wide difference between putting money out for something and putting money into something which. you will always have. THE GORHAM COM PANY Stlversmithns & Goldsmiths FIFTH AVENUE AT 360TH STREET 17-19 MAIDEN LANE

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CLEL ELT EE ZEIT OO ET EET OT OOOO EEO OV EEL OOO EE ™ Victor Records As famous for their fidelity as for the artists they present Absolute faithfulness of reproduction is the one essential the greatest artists demand in the making of talking-machine records. Because of their dominant position in the world of music, because of the pride they take in their art, it is a prime requi- site that their interpretations shall be reproduced in all their original beauty. It is highly significant that the world’s greatest singers and instrumentalists have entrusted their art to the Victor and Victor Records as the one medium through which they themselves wish to be heard. There are Victrolas in great variety of style from $25 to $1500, and any Victor dealer will gladly play any music you wish to hear. New Victor Records demonstrated at all dealers on the Ist of each month. Victor ‘Talking Machine Co. Camden a New Jersey a dk ok he Dk hk Ok Ok kk hk he Dh Dh Dh Dh Dh tad ae Wn wae ae aa aa ek ek kh Oh Ds tr Sor ; .) + » Oe * t. ar arara aa == ee — SSG I.

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S befits its title of Spring Fashions, Number, this issue gives you a veritable luxuri- ance of real advance models. For weeks the Harper’s Bazar fashion editors in Paris and New York have been hard at work in your behalf. They have ranged Fifth Avenue and the rue de la Paix, visited the greatest creators on both sides of the ocean, search- ing, comparing, analyzing, and finally selecting clothes that will help you set the fashions for the season. In the pages of this Bazar you will see the very newest creations long before they are displayed in the shops. For Harper’s Bazar fashions are drawn from the sources of fashion, from the inner recesses of those establishments which really influence the mode. They tell you not what is being worn, but what is going to be worn in the months to come. Study them and then, when you go shopping, or when you visit your dressmaker, you will be able to choose unerringly, secure in the knowledge that changes of style will not overtake you. For this number Erté has made several bewitch- ing summer frocks all containing new and very original features ready for your adaptation. For those interested in masquerades we also present two pages of Erté’s wonderfully imaginative cos- tume designs, drawn for the féte scene in a moving- picture. Soulié’s own designs are exceptionally attractive. He features lovely taffeta frocks, stressing the use of lace and embroidery. His hats are delightful. Still other models which first see the light of day through Harper’s Bazar are the fascinating fou- snow. and fine promise for the future. HARPER’S BAZAR for APRIL, 1920 “*“THS ENTRY OF GPRING’’ ERTE’S Description of This Month’s Cover, Translated from the French “Spring replaces icy winter, which retreats before the conquering sun in torrents of melting Spring—the sun-god of pocts, who see in her coming the symbol of a rebirth. “For me, Spring is beauty which brings warmth to cold hearts, good cheer to the unfortunate She tears irresistibly through the gray silence of life and reenters clothed in flowers, decorated with green leaves, young and joyous. “The gray rents disclose blue sky, vivid with the blue of Spring, and you can see beyond the screen promise of all the gifts Spring can give: the azure sky of summer, a hot biue, heavy with sunshine, the field of wheat, another symbol of fertility. in tears of happiness; they will soon soften, even as this silhouette of a woman in fur, painted in white on the screen, vanishes in shadow before the Spring, dressed in flowers and foliage... Icy hearts will melt and dissolve “And the earth, become gay once more, raises to the sun the riotous, multicolored raiment of Spring, like a most beautiful and precious offering.” lards, shown in the newest silhouettes by Miss E. M. A. Steinmetz, who presents, in addition, raiment for a bride and her maid of honor. Among the fashions that have come straight from Paris are beautiful things from Worth, Lan- vin, Boué Sceurs, Jenny, Paquin, Poiret, Premet, Rolande, Martial et Armand, Lelong, Bulloz, Mol- yneux and Talbot. Henri Bendel’s creations and importations com- prise a variety of very smart new dresses and hats and a cape or two. Lucile contributes many filmy summer things, full of that distinction which always accompanies her designs. And you have this month, besides all these, a quantity of most alluring clothes garnered along Fifth Avenue: frocks, hats and summer things gen- erally, interspersed with exclusive snap-shots of prominent society people. One of the interesting frocks is a model by Kurzman of Egyptian de- rivation. Thurn hats are displayed in striking photographs for which Allyn King posed. The collection in- cludes almost everything from taiiored turbans to large fluffy organdie conceptions. Jane Jarvis, in the Personal Shopping Service, gives a splendid offering of organdie dresses and summer blouses, any of which she will gladly buy for you without extra charge for the service. The children’s clothes this month are from De Pinna. Taking a characteristic fling at certain of En- gland’s musical “circles”, Bernard Shaw has writ- ten an intensely interesting appreciation of the composer who, among all English producers of music, stands out as of genuine importance—Sir Edward Elgar. Whether you like Shaw or not, he is an unrivaled stimulant, and he is just as effective in a friendly vein, as he is when on the war-path. Don’t fail to read his critical estimate of Elgar in this issue. There are very few authors who can write such thoroughly delightful love stories as Fannie Heas- lip Lea does, when she is in the love-story mood. We are a little uncertain whether it is because she lives in Honolulu that she is not more often in that mood. Fannie Heaslip Lea’s fancy seems to turn, a good deal of the time, toward married ladies who wish they were not. But we must be grateful for scattered mercies, among which we count one of her real love stories, appearing in this issue, with charming chalk illustrations by Walter Everett. And on the subject of love stories we wish to call your attention to a new romantic novel of society that Cosmo Hamilton has written specially for the Bazar. You will have the first chapters in the May issue. Better reserve a copy now. Harper's Bazar is published monthly by the International Magazine Company, William Randolph Hearst, president; Joseph A. Moore, vice-president and treasurer; Ray Long, vice-president; W G. Langdon, secretary; 119 West 40th Street, New York City. Single Copies, 50 cents. Yearly subscription in United States and dependencies, $6.00. In Canada, $6.00. in foreign countries, Nhen you receive notice that your subscription has expired it is best to renew it at once, using the blank enclosed. In requesting change of address give the address to which The Bazar is now being sent, as well as the new one. Entered at the New York Post Office as second-class mail. Waedyr SE Ray Volume LV. Number 4 Copyright, 1920, by International Magazine Company (Harper's Bazar)

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CROMWELL BROOKS A recent dry-point etching NICHOLAS P. ZAROKILLI ae pt-7C o—-ta_-7* Mrs. Brooks, who is a daughter of Mrs. E. T. Stotesbury of Philadelphia, re- turned from Paris in midwinter and has takena prominent place in the younger matrons’ set in Washington. Soon after Nikolaki’s recent exhibition in New York, in which this likeness as well as that of many European notables was included, the artist left for Spain to etch the portraits of the royal family.

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Mrs. Charles Cary Rumsey PORTRAIT BY JOHM WALLACE GHLLiES VERYBODY’S §busi- Mrs. Rumsey, the eld- est daughter of the late E. Henry Harri- man and one of the founders of Commu- nity Councils,is work- ing to establish an “entente cordiale” be- tween the people and their local govern- ments, In her article she explains that neighborliness is the first requisite of the modern citizen, community interests in rela- ness is in reality TO-DAY’S NEED for the OLD-TIME pone Poh cw song soldiers nobody’s _ business. Here is the reason why so many things have gone wrong with us as a people. Here also is the reason for the springing up of so many welfare and social service associations, each trying to remedy some evil that has been brought forcibly to our notice. There is always a real cause for every such organization. In speaking of our modern tendency to create these innumerable committees and federations, one of our public men has said that Americans are running wild on the subject of organizations, but the truth of the matter is that as a nation we are not over-organized, we are merely very badly organized. The result is that a great amount of effort is wasted, or our well-meaning services overlap each other. Recently we have become cognizant of one primal lack in our human relations; because of our phenomenal political and material growth during the past half century, we have lost sight of the individual and his place and rights as a human being. This has meant the overwhelm- ing of the community spirit that formerly actu- ated the people of distinct localities. We live in the mass, think in the mass and are, as such masses always are, governed by a power far re- moved from our daily lives. Necessarily the personality of the individual has been submerged in the vast modern industrial aggregations. Men and women drop their names on entering industry and become known by num- bers. They thus lose all sense of social and per- sonal contacts and all sense of their own respon- sibility to the people among whom they live. This condition is responsible for a large part of our present discontent and unrest, and the time has come for society to devise some means to com- bat the dangers arising from its own over-growth. Two organizations growing out of the war are undertaking to show the American people that no matter how great in numbers our citizenry may become, it is still possible to recreate the old town-meeting spirit of New England and so put the breath of life in that much-maligned term, TOWN MEETING By MARY HARRIMAN RUMSEY democracy. In December the Community Coun- cils of New York joined forces with the Social Unit of Cincinnati, thus extending the oppor- tunity to carry out experiments in which both organizations are interested. This amalgamation also removes the danger of an overlapping of activities, for, while the Councils and the Unit are working for the same results, they approach their problems by different methods. The Councils advocate community welfare on an extensive scale, where the Unit is working out its problem in- tensively. The former is developing its plans in a number of districts in New York, while the latter has taken over a section of thirty blocks in the Mohawk-Brighton district of Cincinnati, and is working out its scheme as a unit within specified boundaries. In large cities our people have had few points of contact, and this is particularly true of their relations with things political and governmental. Until the war became our war, a part of our every-day lives, it is doubtful if ninety-nine out of the hundred millions making up the American nation ever looked upon their government as something belonging to themselves. They felt no responsibility toward the state, vaguely thinking of it as an invisible empire with which they had no real personal concern. The war changed this spirit of indifference, for every household was touched in some way by governmental orders or requests. The formation of the National Council of Defence, the wider de- velopment of the Red Cross and other war or- ganizations, bred and fostered the realization that each individual American has not only rights to enjoy, but duties to perform. Community groups met to knit, to roll bandages, to sew for their boys in camp and hospital. Other groups—coun- cils we called them—met to plan and work for And so for the first time in fifty years, we awoke to a consciousness of individual and community rights; to use a homely word, we sud- denly found ourselves be- coming neighborly. To be sure, only too many of us lost our high emotional in- terest when the war ended; but the foundations remained and on them a new conception of neighborliness is being raised. The framework of the Councils of Defence has been handed on, in New York to the Community Councils, whose purpose is to keep alive the interest of the in- dividual in his community. The theory on which the Councils work is that each neighborhood has within its borders the necessary elements to make an independent unit, provided the neighbors do their full part. If things go wrong in your city government, it is not primarily the fault of the office-holders, but of the men and women who, having elected these officials, leave them alone to run things as they please. A united public opinion can force office- holders to answer its will; an enlightened public opinion can accomplish the impossible, if it is united on what it wants. The residents in a neighborhood, as_ individuals, may object to street-cleaning methods. Sitting at home and complaining will not better things, but a firmly welded community group, working in the interests of the neighborhood, will undoubtedly bring about a change in those methods. This has been proven time and again in some of our large cities, and is very likely to be proven right here in New York. The woman who works with any of the wel- fare organizations having contacts with any city government soon acquires an intimate knowledge of its involved workings and senses the value of combined effort. Up in the Bronx, the people of a certain district wanted a branch library. They had asked for one for years. Finally the plans were complete and money apportioned, the li- brary was assured—on paper. In reality nothing happened. No one seemed to know the reason for the delay until an old- (Continued om page 138) 59

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“7 think I can do what I choose,” said Dodo, “but I can’t. ever I do has been written in the Book of Fate; for all etern‘ty.” W hat- Dodo THE ANCHOR TO YOUTH ODO was so much interested in what she had herself been saying that, having just lit one cigarette, she lit another at it, and now contemplated the two with a dazed expression. She was talking to Edith Arbuthnot, who had just returned from a musical tour in Germany, where she had con- ducted a dozen concerts consisting entirely of her own music with colossal success. She had been urged by her agent to give half a dozen more, the glory of which, he guaranteed, would completely eclipse that of the first series, but instead she had come back to England. She did not quite know why she had done so: her husband Bertie had sent the most cordial message to say that he and their daughter Madge were getting on quite excellently without her—indeed that seemed rather unduly stressed—but . . . here she was. The statement of this, to be enlarged on no doubt later, had vio- lently switched the talk to a discussion on free will. Edith, it may be remarked, had arrived at her house in town only to find that her husband and daughter had already gone away for Whitsuntide, and, being unable to support the idea of a Sunday alone in London, had sent off a telegram to Dodo, whom she knew to be at Winston, announcing her advent, and had arrived before it. On the other hand, her luggage had not arrived at all, and for the present she was dressed in a tea-gown of Dodo’s, and a pair of Lord Chesterford’s tennis-shoes, which fitted her perfectly. 60 Blithely Disposes By Drawings by E. FF. BENSON Charles D. Mitchell “But, my dear,” said Dodo, “we talk glibly about free will, and we haven’t the slightest conception what we really mean by it. Look at these two cigar- ettes! I am going to throw one away ina moment, and smoke the other, but there is no earthly reason why I should throw this away rather than that, or that than this: they are both precisely alike. I think I can do as I choose, but I can’t. Whatever 1 do has been written in the Book of Fate; something comes in (I don’t know what it is) which will direct my choice. 1 say to myself, ‘I choose to smoke cigarette A and throw away cigarette B,’ but all the time it has been already determined. So in order to score off the Book of Fate, I say that I will do precisely the opposite, and do it. Upon which Fate points with its horny finger to its dreadful book, and there it has all been written down since the begin- ning of the world, if not before. Don’t let us talk about free will any more, for it makes one’s brain turn round like a Dancing Dervish, but continue to nurse our illusion on the subject.. You could have stayed in Germany, but you chose not to. There!” Edith had not nearly finished telling Dodo about these concerts, in fact she had barely begun, when the uncomfortable doctrine of free will usurped Dodo’s attention. “The first concert, as I think I told you, was at Leipsic,” shesaid. “It was really colossal. You don’t know what an artistic triumph means to an artist.” of Middle-Avge 1n “No, dear; tell me,” said Dodo, still looking at her cigarettes. “Then you must allow me to speak. It was crammed, of course, and packed with jealousy and hostility. They hated me and my music, and everything about me, because I was English. Only, they couldn’t keep away. They had to come in order to hate me at close quarters. I’m beginning to think that is rather characteristic of the Germans; they are far the most intense nation there is. First 1 played a “T thought you conducted,” said Dodo. “Yes; we call that playing. That is the usual term. First I played the ‘Dodo’ symphony. I com- posed one movenient of it here, 1 remember—the scherzo. Well, at the end of the first movement, about three people clapped their hands once, and there was dead silence again. At the end of the second there was a roar. They couldn’t help it. Then they recollected themselves again, having for- gotten for a moment how much they hated me, and the roar stopped like turning a tap off. You could have heard a pin drop.” “And did it?” asked Dodo. “No. I dropped my baton, which sounded like a clap of thunder. Then came the scherzo, and from that moment they were Balaams. They had come to curse, and they were obliged to bless. What happened to their free will then?” “Yes, I know about Balaam,” said Dodo; “he comes in the Bible. Darling, how delicious for you!

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“The humor of a nation doesn’t depend on the number of jokes in its sublimest tragedy,” Edith said. “ Let us judge our humor by Hamlet.” ged) § : “bere S DER CHE CU I see quite well what you mean by an artistic triumph: it’s to make people delight in you in spite of themselves. I’ve often done it.” Dodo had resolved the other problem of free will that concerned the cigarettes by smoking them alternately. It seemed very unlikely that fate had thought of that. They were both finished now, and she got up to pour out tea. “Tf I could envy anybody,” she said, “which Iam absolutely incapable of doing, I should envy you, Edith. You have always gone on doing all your life precisely what you meant to do. You’ve got a strong character, as strong as this tea, which has been standing. But all my remarkable feats have been those which I didn’t mean to do. They just came along and got done. I always meant to marry Jack, but I didn’t do it until 1 had married two other people first. Sugar? That’s how I go on, you know, doing things on the spur of the moment, and trusting that they will come right afterward, because I haven’t really meant them at all. And yet, ’orrible to relate, by degrees, by degrees as the years go on, we paint the pictures of ourselves which are the only authentic ones, since we have painted every bit of them ourselves. | Everything I do adds another touch to mine, and at the end I shall get glanders or cancer or thrush, and just the moment before I die I shall take the brush for the last time and paint on it ‘Dodo fecit.’ Oh, my dear, what will the angels think of it, and what will our aspirations and our aims and our struggles think of it? We’ve gone on aspiring and perspiring and admiring and conspiring, and then it’s all over. ‘Strawberries! They’re the first I’ve seen this year; let us eat them up before Jack comes. Some- times I wish I were a canary or any other silly thing that doesn’t think and try and fail. All the same, I shouldn’t really like to be a bird. Fancy having black eyes like buttons, and a horny mouth with no teeth, and scaly legs. Groundsel, too! I would sooner be a cannikal than eat groundsel. And I couldn’t possibly live in a cage; nor could I endure anybody throwing a piece of green baize over me, when he thought 1 had talked enough. Fancy, if you could ring the bell now this moment, and say to the footman, ‘Bring me her ladyship’s baize!’ It would take away all spontaneousness from my con- versation. I should be afraid of saying anything for fear of being baized, and every one would think I was getting old and anemic. I won't be a canary after all!” Edith shouted with laughter. = MIND like yours is such a relief after living with German minds for a month,” she said. “You always were a holiday. But why these mor- bid imaginings?” “T’m sure I don’t know. I think it’s the effect of seeing you again after a long interval, and hearing you mention the time when you composed that scherzo. It’s so long ago, and we were so young, and so exactly like what we are now. Does it ever strike you that we are growing up? Slowly but surely, darling, we are growing up. I’m fifty-five; at least, I’m really only fifty-four, but I add one year to my age instead of taking off two, like most people, so that when the next birthday comes, I’m already used to being it, if you follow me, and so there’s no shock.” “Shock? I adore getting older,” said Edith. “It will be glorious being eighty. 1 wish I hadn’t got to wait solong. Every year adds to one’s perceptions and one’s wisdom.” Dodo considered this. “Yes, I dare say it is so, up to a point,”’ she said, “though I seem to have seen women of eighty whose relations tell me that darling granny has preserved all her faculties, and is particularly bright this morning. Then the door opens and in comes darling granny in her bath-chair, with her head shaking a little with palsy, and what I should call deaf and blind and crippled. My name is shouted at her, and she grins and picks at her shawl. Oh, my dear! But I dare say she is quite happy—which is what matters most, and it isn’t that which 1’m afraid of in getting old!” “But you’re not afraid of dying?” asked Edith incredulously. “Good gracious, no! 1’m never afraid of certain- ties; 1’m only afraid of contingencies like missing a train. What I am afraid of in getting old is con- tinuing to feel hopelessly young. I look in vain for signs that I realize I’m fifty-five. 1 tell myself I’m fifty-five——” “Four,” said Edith; “I’m six.” “And that I was young last century and not this century,” continued Dodo without pause. ‘We’re both Victorian, Edith, and all sorts of people have reigned since then. But I don’t feel Victorian. 1 like the fox-trot, and going in an airplane, and the muddled pictures which look equally delicious up- side-down, and sitting up all night. And yet all the time I’m a grandmother, and even that doesn’t make any impression on me. Nadine’s got three children, you know, and look at Nadine herself. She’s thirty, the darling, and she’s stately—the erson who sees everybody in the park walking sriskly and looking lovely always says that Nadine is stateiy. I read his remarks in the paper for that reason, and cut that piece out and sent it to Nadine. But am I a proper mother for a stately daughter? That dreadful thought occurs to Nadine sometimes, I am sure. Would you guess I had a stately daughter?” It certainly would have seemed a very wild con- jecture. Dodo had preserved, up to the eminently respectable age of which she felt so unworthy, the aspect as well as the inward vitality of youth, and thus never did she appear to be attempting to be young, when she clearly (Continued on page 146) 61

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A Notable New York Apartment Winter Residence MR. JAMES L. BREESE Photographs by John Wallace Gillies »~ STEALS Saas secon. In the circle is shown the east end of the living-room with its old Roman stone mantel. The windows al cither side are hung with Italian filet altar lace and old brocade, while Japanese bird-cages further contribute to their beauty of treatment. Lacquer cabinels with sixteenth-century gilded carved wood can- dlesticks and sconces decorate the west wall of the living- room, through the open door of which a vista of the dining-room is disclosed. An old silver aliar lamp hangs from the ceiling. At the left is the door leading from the living-room to the library. The interesting XVIth-century Tuscan wall- pedestals on each side of the doorway are in characteristic Italian console shape and came from the Bardini collection.

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Above is the living- room, which is ap- proached through a long entrance hallway hune in Flemish tapestries and thence through a velvet-hung foyer. Against a wall surface of soft green brocade, rare pieces of Etruscan glass, Spanish luster and old paintings are hung. About theroom are interesting examples of early Englishand Italian furniture, which include a remarkable X Vth-cen- tury inlaid walnut cabi- net. Every detail reflects Mr. Breese’s discrimin- ating taste as a collector. The paneled oak dining- room expresses the im- pressive dignity and restfulness that charac- ierize Old English rooms of this type. This inte- rior has been installed in the apartment with the original ceiling and leaded glass windows, in which there are stained glass motifs. A refec- tory table, oak chairs, consoles and cabtnets comprise the furnish- ings, together with four tall silver candlesticks.

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ERTE WRITES OF A NEW PLAY IN MONTE CARLO AND ADVISES ABOUT EVENING GOWNS Monte Carlo, March, 1920. Mon cher M. Editor: NE hardly expected to see so soon again the ante-bellum Monte Carlo! After the epochal season of 1913-1914, six years came and went without a trace of animation, without any of the customary distractions—a long, calm period of sleep. Now all is astir with life, and the years of terror and deprivation seem entirely forgotten in the hurly-burly of social and artistic festivity. The Thédtre du Casino, having terminated its season of comedy, classical ballets and concerts, produced as an interlude, before beginning its great season of opera and Russian ballets, an unique presentation of supreme literary charm— “Les Aigles dans la Tempéte,” an historic drama in verse by Comte A. du Bois. In 1913 the same dramatist produced on the same spot “Berenice,” 64 Erté’s garden apron is made of crépe de Chine with black velvet ribbons to hold it over the shoulders and huge plaited pockets for flowers. To wear with it, there is a broad flower- faced straw chapeau of graceful shape. Over a pedestal of white marble, Erté crosses silken cords from which hang small glass aqua- riums. In the water goldfish swim about, and floating upon the surface are forget-me-nots. Altogether this is a most novel garden feature. Truly a flower gown is the one above, for it has been made entirely of rose satin and its irregular hem and sweeping train are appliqued with rose petals, fashioned of velvet in all the exquisite shades of rose that the garden knows. which under the name of “d’Herodienne” is now winning resounding applause at the Thédtre de la Comédie Francaise in Paris. The Thédtre de Monte Carlo, one realizes, is ever the advance guard! M. de Max and Mlle. Pierat of the Comédie Francaise have created “The Eagles in the Temp- est” at Monte Carlo. It is a drama of passion, a conflict of love and hatred. The theme, grip- ping in its interest and stirring in its emotion, is placed by the poet in a classic setting. The action unfolds in Rome under the reign of Domitian. A superlative tragedian, de Max has evoked through his interpretation the living figure of the per- verted and passionate Casar, while Mlle. Pierat in her impersonation of Domitian’s Empress ex- presses the very incarnation of intense hatred. The entire drama is based solely on the conflict of passion between these two characters. It would be futile indeed to look for historic Rinne aes 0 Aig Ee, ARLE. 3 NE Dainipatonic ae se PRS.

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a E | 3 verity in this modern poem, for history exists here only in the names employed—let the poetic fantasy of great beauty suffice. The author, for example, would persuade us that Domitian had married the Empress after having forced her be- trothed to kill himself. Fact assures us, however, that she had long been married when Domitian forced her to divorce her husband, who lived on as a subject of the empire. Again, the author reduces the subsequent reign of Domitian from fifteen to five years, and while Suetonius, the his- torian, attributes his assassination to a band of slaves and freedmen our poet would have him meet his end at the hand of a group of senators. M. de Bois’ drama, interpreted by de Max, is a beautiful and brilliant drama. The costumes worn by M. de Max were superb, and I noticed with pleasure that their color was always in per- fect accord with the changing moods of the char- acter he interpreted. Alas, I can hardly say the same of the costumes worn by Mile. Pierat, who disported what seemed to be charming gowns from Redfern. She might, with perfect appropriateness, have worn these costumes in the salons of the Casino. It is in- comprehensible to me that the greatest of Madame, who watches with such intercst the work of her couturiere, is clad in one of Erté creations for spring. Her skirt is of tricotine and her bodice of soft white cloth, braided lav- ishly to form a high collar, cuffs and girdle. Over a simple skirt the couturiére wears a charming blouse, fashioned by Erté of gray and blue mousseline. Above in the center a mar- velous evening gown is being constructed of jet and embroidered satin, with draperies of soft white material to encircle the hips be- neath innumerable strings of the glittering jet. actresses will not follow the example of actors and wear costumes instead of obstinately persisting in transforming their costumes into gowns. . . . As the flowers bud and blossom along the Céte d’ Azur, innumerable fétes are in preparation— bals, masques and costume balls are announced, and one awaits with interest the conceits and fancies of modern imagination. We may see nothing new; possibly we may encounter a few startling errors—inevitable incidents in the quest for beauty, so towards these we shall be in- dulgent. Gaiety reigns in Monte Carlo, for the worldings who throng this paradisiacal spot have come to pursue pleasure. Now in the gaming salons of the Casino and the club, one sees only laughing faces and hears only gay voices—it is a care-free throng this, which greets the reverses of chance with a smile and a shrug. The toilettes which one sees in the Casino salons, at the theatre, in the great restaurants present an amusing picture. One observes many evening gowns, in which the corsage is almost en- tirely suppressed. Well-built women in such frocks are entirely perfect; as for those who are a trifle overplump, the prospect is not altogether pleasing. In the quest for the original, there ur are seekers who forget the existence WA of beauty; thanks to such as these, / b the general effect of a costume may if! be rendered positively ridiculous. But fi happily these people are rare . ; 65

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THE . 4 EGYPTIAN FOR THE INFLUENCE IN SEX’? DRESS MAKES ‘“*‘RESTLESS MOST T will rejoice a discriminating public, interested in the Egyptian influence being felt in dress, to learn that the film version of Robert W. Chambers’ “Restless Sex,” soon to. be released, will present an array of Egyptian costumes designed by the richly fanciful imagination of Erté. All that could lend en- chantment to the ensemble—beauty of color and fabric, grace and originality of design, exquisiteness of detail—the great artist has lavishly employed. But more than this, the costumes worn in the masked ball scene of “The Restless Sex” are happily true to the spirit of the mythological deities they would portray. The Egyptian trinity, the celestial Chinese god, the Parnassian deities, all are here with their appropriate symbols: Horus stands forth with checked head-dress and hawk-faced mask; Chang-ti looms with his interminable mustache and finger-nails; Hera drives her bridled peacocks, and Aphrodite, ravishingly girdled, disports with her encircling doves. A consummate triumph is this, and one that argues well for the artistic destiny of the cinemetograph. Above Erté creates for Hera a dull silken robe of mauve, embroidered in silks of blue and green and silver threads. Over this is worn a silver- embroidered mantle, rectangular in shape and held by pearl and sap- phire plaques, which in turn are fastened to silver bracelets underneath the drapery. Strands of pearls are attached to the attendant peacocks. ERTE’S Horus is clothed in swathing draperies of blue and silver tissue embroidered with glittering gold, vivid blue and scarlet, and upon his arms and ankles are bands to match. His wig is red and gold, and over his face is a mask. Egypt’s goddess Isis, when clothed by Erté, wears a sheer cheniise of violet, embroidered with small black motifs. From her satin gir- dle strings of glittering beads are wound about her body, and each string is separate. INTERESTING

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About Maya-Deri, deity of India, Erté winds a long transparent scarf of black mousseline, embroidered with small mo- tifs of silver and blue. Upon her head he poises a towering creation of ,silver filagree that is ruby studded at its base and surmounted by a magnificent ruby, Erté clothes Osiris, husband of Isis, father of Horus and greatest of Egypt's gods, in brilliant draperies and a huge headdress. His skirt of black and silver is held by a beau- tifully carved silver clasp and is surmount- ed by a deep jewel-studded silken band, Chalchiutlicue, goddess of rain, has a bod- ice of violet and blue and silver, and a skirt of silver and green silks. Upon her head there is a coronet of silver to match the turquoise-studded anklets and deep bracelets on her arm. Through her black hair are strung blue and silver beads, Athena below is in violet adorned with yel- low, black and mauve silks, and upon her breast the head of Medusa is embroidered in black and silver, with eyes of orange. In one hand she carries a black shield chased in silver, and in the other a lance of silver. China’s deity, Chang-ti, wears three gorgeous robes. The lower one is sky blue, embroidered in silver, the next scarlet, heavy with vivid embroideries, and the upper robe violet, also lav- ishly adorned with silver and brilliant-colored threads. Aphrodite, at the left, wears a tunic of transparent mous- seline, shaded exquisitely from palest lemon-yellow to vivid flame. Her girdle of silver is clasped in front with a motif on which is exquisitively carved a man’s and a woman's head. 67

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SUMMER FROCKS IN WHICH THE WAISTLIN IS QUITE NORMAL from nln Surely the most delightfully feminine fabric of summer is organdie, for not only is it sheer and adorably bouffant, but it may be had in the most delectable of shades. The frock below, for instance, has been made by Lucile of palest yellow organdie along the most youthful and becoming lines im- aginable. Its deep Bertha collar is trimmed with insertions and edgings of lovely Valen- ciennes, and in at the girdle there is tucked one of Lady Gordon's much-liked nosegays. For sunny summer mornings, when parasols and broad hats are in ore there are frocks that are cool, simply fashioned and softly colored, Lady Gordon makes the adorable creation above of heliotrope linen, giving it a “jumper” bodice and belt of the fabric. For the guimpe and top of the skirt, she has used ex- quisite eyelet embroidery in white, and buttoned the short s with small crocheted balls. An immensely becoming Jrame for the face is the hat that accompanies the linen costume. Its brim of dotted muslin is gathered slightly, and under it, @ Jew inches from the edge, there is a@ roll of violet satin,

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S| ‘3 y The crushed crown and the round, slightly droop- ing brim oj the hat at the right would make it becoming, even if it were not fashioned of organ- die, crisp and white, with a fluted jrill of the sheer stuff to top its brim and stand out just the merest trifle from the edge for a trimming feature, Under a sheltering marquee, on a sunny breezy afternoon of summer, who would not delight to dance away the hours in Lucile’s frock above? For, over a slip of flesh satin, she has draped yards of black tulle and topped the skirt with a quaint bodice of black taffeta. The hat is of black milan, with the brim flower-weighted on one side. Many tiny white charmeuse buttons are stitched in an orderly row from the round neck to the slashed hem of Lucile’s shimmering white frock at the right, and in front and back and about the short elbow- length sleeves there are bands of the white charmeuse, deftly frilled in the most enchanting manner. A perky bow ties at the neck and satin ribbon binds the waist and holds in the full rufled cufis. REM RAR BATE iston Alfred Cheney Joh

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OR several days after her attack, Hermione was very weak and prostrate. She was able, however, on the following morning to refer indirectly to Bodger. She asked in a low broken whisper if Bichette was per- fectly safe. Bichette was full in view at the moment, noisily engaged in eating creamed chicken at the foot of Hermione’s bed; and Hermione was instantly told that Bodger was no longer on the premises. After this inquiry Hermione closed her eyes and retired into a state of even completer exhaustion. She was physically prostrate, but her mind was vividly alert. Hermione was thinking out several problems. She had her conscience to deal with, and her future life. Her conscience was a comparatively easy affair. Even in a high fever, she had been able to justify herself to her own complete satisfaction. Hermione had a little manual of “self examination” questions which always lay beside her bed, and she could go through the whole list with perfect confidence day or night. But did her father sufficiently believe in her? And was it worth while that he should? Hermione did not put these two questions to herself The MISCHIEF-MAKER By PHYLLIS BOTTOME (Mrs. Forbes Dennis) Illustrated by Grant T. Reynard (Conclusion) as crudely as this—she saw them as she would have expressed it, ‘‘on a higher plane.” It was her duty to make her father realize that she was a power for good in the world, and he did not yet realize it. If she succeeded in convincing him, might she not, with him at her side, win moral successes upon a larger scale? Hermione told herself that she must not be ambitious about spiritual openings, and she emptied her mind with an effort to concentration of all memory of the house and garden in the Champs Elysees. But, on the other hand, she had been broken- hearted, and helpful to young wives for several years and perhaps more was now asked of her. She could J not, in justice to herself, change her ideal, but she might change the channel of her efforts. Perhaps Papa was right he had distinctly spoken of a wider field—the time might have arrived for her to make fresh efforts. Papa was worldly, of course, and hideously astray if he expected her to give up her present situation for the sake of any material profit. But she had never intended to stay permanently with Elise and John, and her father was her first duty. They might live in Paris, which was dryer than London, and therefore, no doubt, more suitable for diabetes. Papa could not really care for Mambles, or he would not have given it to John. Hermione was the person who really ought to make a home for her father. Perhaps this was what he had always felt, and the singular tone of mis- informed bitterness with which he had addressed her had been caused by a feeling of neglect. Hermione lay with her eyes shut reconstructing the neglected past. of Mr. Brett and the rose-colored future with which sne intended to present him. Yes—she was prepared to sacrifice Elise and John to give herself up to her ill and aged parent. The house in the Champs Elysees shot through her mind again, but would she have the physical strength to entertain properly? And how large was the garden? It was no use her under- taking what she could not carry through. Hermione had had a long career full of excitements, and even perils, but she had foreseen the excitements and had been able as a rule to terminate any dangers which had arisen from them. But the night of her attack she had neither foreseen how ill she would be, nor been able to control it. A sensation which she had not roused in herself had fright- ened her. She had sud- denly felt that some- thing might happen to her which she could not prevent. Hermione shivered a little as she realized how very near she had been to that final trickster, Immortality. She had often spoken of longing for death, and she had even ex- perienced baffling mo- ments of exasperation with human material, when she had thought of death as a supreme Elise did not ask her father any questions, but she became daily more and more conscious that change was in the air. restfulness where she would be enshrined forever in the right, beyond the criticism of ignorant Roumanians; but these moments of longing had come to her when she knew she wasn’t going to die. She had never been conscious of any desire for death, when it was at all likely. At the birth of her child, for instance, the very idea of her own insecurity had shocked her, and she had _ neither forgotten nor forgiven those preposterous, unmall- eable hours! The night of her attack reminded her of them something had turned on her and forced her beyond her pace. Might this happen again? And what steps should she take to prevent it? Sne remembered that the doctor had been no use, but her father had. The instant her eyes met his, this violent force in her had recognized a resistance stronger than her own, and had yielded to it. But she was not going to speak to her father about it. He might be an asset for the future, and you do not tell assets that they have the power of control. It would be a great help to have Papa with her, if he could influence her at a moment when she wished to be influenced, but Hermione felt that she must first make sure of her need. Perhaps she would have got better in any case; and she had a wholesome dread of undue personal influence. Hermione decided to send for Dr. Raymond and ask him how ill she had been? Hermione did not like Dr. Raymond. She had always been accustomed to make intimate friends with her doctors, and she had spared no pains to create a happy relationship. They admired her first, and then admired her symptoms afterwards. But Dr. Raymond had evaded his opportunities. He was a busy man, who did not want hurried intimacies with attractive women patients. He insisted from the first on only being told Hermione’s symptoms and he insisted upon her symptoms merely to assure her that they were not of much importance. He was a young man, and he had come straight from a military hospital in France. Still, he was honest. Hermione always realized the useful qualities of the people she disliked; and she knew that if she asked Dr. Raymond a straight question he would produce a straight answer, and keep both question and answer to himself. It was difficult to Hermione to listen to what she did not wish to hear, and it very rarely occurred to her to be necessary, but, when it did occur to her, she had never been known to shirk it. She waited till she felt she had sufficient physical strength to deal with the occasion successfully, and then on the third day after her illness, she told Nurse Davies that she would see Dr. Raymond alone. Dr. Raymond did not come immediately he was telephoned for, and when he did come, he began their conversation by bluntly telling Hermione that she looked a great deal better. He sat opposite her waving his hat tiresomely in his hands as if he wanted to go. Hermione ignored his clumsiness with difficulty. “T should like you to tell me,” she said quietly, “two things—then I need not detain you further. Was I dangerously ill the other night? And in your opinion could I ever become normally well?” Dr. Raymond stopped swinging his hat and looked at her with sudden attention. He had often wanted to speak straight to the Princess Girla, but she had never given him the least opportunity. Now that she had given him the opportunity, he felt that it would be brutal to take too great an advantage of it; besides he re- spected her for her frankness. Hermione leaned back on her pillow, flushed and with her gray eyes very wide open and steady. She knew exactly what effect her frankness would have upon Dr. Raymond, and she realized that it would be easier to hear an unpalatable truth if it should be presented to her with respect. “You were very ill indeed the other night,” Dr. Raymond said after a short pause, meeting her eyes with equal steadiness. “I think it is possible you might have died, but I think it is more probable that you might have gone out of your mind. You have a very excitable brain, and it was keyed up on one point rather tighter than it could stand.” Hermione nodded. “T know I am unduly sensitive,” she murmurea.

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setae gi *“Forgive me,’’ said Hermione “ Something had been said to me which I could not break away from in my mind, although I was con- scious of its complete unfairness.”’ Dr. Raymond’s eyes seemed to grow smaller and keener. He no longer desired to spare the Princess anything; it flashed across him that she would always spare herself. “As to your future condition,’ he went on, “I must tell you frankly that it depends on you. There are people whose sensitiveness about their own sensations presupposes physical ill health. “I do not wish to sound impertinent, but ill health, when there is no organic cause for it, is chiefly egoism. “Tt comes from the fact that personal sensation is more interesting than outside facts. We all of us, even the strongest, have physical sensations which, if they interest us too much, become accen- tuated and may produce disease. “You have a very powerful will, Princess Girla, and if your mind should become sufficiently inter- ested on any outside line, I see no reason why you should not become normally strong, providing you pay attention to common sense, eat regular and healthy meals, and take enough fresh air and exercise. “On the other hand, a few more such serious nerve and brain attacks willland you ina perma- nently bad physical condition, out of which it would be practically impossible to break. You are an interesting invalid now, but as your ill health be- comes chronic, you will become less and less inter- esting and more and more of an invalid. “That is all IT can tell you; the choice lies in your own hands.” Hermione’s eyes remained steady, although they became a trifle glassy in expression. “Thank you,” she said gently, “and may I ask when you came to this conclusion about my case?” “T think I thought so, more or less, the first time I saw you,” said Dr. Raymond reflectively in calm, measured tones. “TI said to myself then, ‘Another of those nerve-ego redundancies’.” bitte rly. ‘*‘You sometimes make me feel Hermione lowered her eyes. They became fixed upon Dr. Raymond’s hat. “How very curious,” she said, “that you did not let me know what you thought on that first occasion? Let me see, I think this must be your twelfth visit? It will be perhaps unnecessary for you to call again as I understand that my case is in my own hands— and has always been so.” Dr. Raymond never knew how he got out of the Princess Girla’s room. He felt profoundly uncom- fortable, and he was conscious that he looked a fool. Hermione said nothing further to him, but she watched him step on his hat and nearly overturn his chair. He carried away the impression that Hermione thought he had deliberately made a case out of her for money. Hermione’s quiet eyes could say a great deal, and Dr. Raymond forgot that he had told the Princess Girla that she was a ‘‘nerve-ego redundancy” in his shame at being considered not only an inefficient, but a dishonest practitioner. Hermione saw with satisfaction the impression that she had produced. She did not even smile at Dr. Raymond’s undignified exit. She was not easily amused, but she enjoyed it. Dr. Raymond had told her what she felt it necessary to know and she had made him suffer for the inconvenience of truth. Somebody has always to suffer in the cause of truth, and it is usually the person who attaches the greater importance to it. ig you devote your life to studying the feelings of others, you may get a little overtired and see things out of proportion, but you are not likely to be mistaken in what these feelings are. During Hermione’s convalescence Elise dis- covered that there was an alteration in her father. Mr. Brett appeared superficially the same, but there was, so Elise fancied, an undercurrent of restlessness in him. He did not walk any farther than usual, and he was always to be found in his accustomed haunts, as if I were a little in the way.’” but behind his quiet eyes and his imperturbed do- mestic comments there was a strange new grip of attention. He knew that he was seeing the fuchsia hedges and the bird bath for the last time. He would not often sit under the giant black yew and watch the retreating harvest fields stretch yellow and pale to the downs’ edge. He would not often see Elise standing at the top of a flight of steps, balancing a white parasol over her sunny hair. Mr. Brett did not look at Elise with emotion, he was not an emotional man, but he looked at her with a prolonged attentiveness. Elise did not ask him any questions, but she became daily more and more conscious that change was in the air. She came out oftener to look at her father, to share his gentle prowls to the gardens’ edge and sit with him in the last patches of the retreating sun. Summer was drawing slowly to an end at Mam- bles, the color of the garden had changed, the deli- cate, myriad shades of the flowers had singled and massed themselves into the hard and flaunting gold of sunflowers—dull mauves, and hectic reds and browns. Only a bush of pale blue flax burned on as if it were still June. The birds were all about the sky, practising un- endingly their migratory flights. They broke and clustered and spread open fans above the garden hedges, crying instead of singing their last songs. The garden at Mambles was full of their agitated wings and leave-takings. John alone noticed no sign of change, except in the weather, and Elise forbore to tell him of her premonitions. She had discovered that John did not like changes and that it was better to let them happen to him of their own accord than to prepare him for them with a prevision that might look like her personal con- sent. Elise was no doubt very bad for men, because she always altered herself to suit their conveniences. She never expected atten- (Continued on page 130) 71

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The genius of the early Spanish wood-carvers is manifested in altar figures, such as this of St. Mi- chael, Courtesy Nicholas Martin, PANISH art, as expressed in Spanish furniture, offers a subject for collecting that is as alluring as it is difficult to obtain here in America. With its glamour of rich coloring, sumptuous embellishment and detail, it reflects the successive influences which permeated Old Spain, and the conditions under which it was orig- inally used, throughout a period of magnificence unequaled in the history of the world. During the earlier Spanish periods, articles of Roman furniture were com- monly adopted, such as the eating- couch, state-bed, ordinary sleeping- bed, the cathedra or chair for women, SOPRA SETTLE PT. URS The ACQUISITIVE CONNOISSEUR By ELIZABETH LOUNSBERY This group includes an early Portuguese leather chair and a XVIth-century Spanish “var- gueno” with the inner drawers faced with decorated bone. The drop-jront is enriched with aGothic lock and metal plaques over red velvet. XVIth-cen- tury ivory Madonna and brass candlesticks. Ginsburg & Levy. Example of XVIIth-century sacred statuary, with the polychrome and gilt finish characteristic of the pe- riod. Courtesy Nicholas Martin. the solium or chair for the head of the house, the simple chairs without backs and the benches for the servants. The furniture used during this period was often of rare woods, inlaid with ivory or even gold and silver, and the lamps or candelabra were of silver, copper, glass or iron. Walls were hung with tapestry or decorated with mural paintings, while the fireplaces and bra- ziers of that time have descended to present-day usage. During a later period in Spanish history, the seigniorial mansions and homes of wealth were furnished in a style of rude magnificence. Roman models, derived from both Roman and Byzantine (Continued on page 162) Wi) HE Mattie Ed vards Hevwit ; I} ; } , , J ) bi . * . . . . P . — ° Typically rich in detail are these old S§; h chairs. Spanish chests were varied in size and diversified in The one above, near a XVII th-century walnut tabli use. At the lejt is a late XVIth-century treasure-chest, is covered in illuminated leather. At the right is a ornamented with illuminated iron bands and clasps and lined with Cordova leather. Nicholas Martin. gilded state chair with green velvet seat, French & (

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——E Sir EDWARD ELGAR By Pomad SbasT HEN the new London magazine “Music ¢ Letters” was founded by Mr. Fox Strangways, the mu- sical critic of the London “Times”, it in- evitably began with an article on the greatest living English composer, Edward Elgar. Few of the younger generation knew that Bernard Shaw had made a considerable reputation as a writer on music before he became famous as a dramatist. But Sir Edward Elgar had not forgotten the impression made on him in his student days by Shaw’s article; and when he was consulted as to the critic whose scelec- tion for the impending notice would be most agrecable to him, he at once named Bernard Shaw. Shaw immediately laid aside his the- atrical and political work, and wrote the article which follows: DWARD ELGAR, the figure-head of music in England, is a composer whose rank it is neither prudent nor indeed possible to determine. Either it is one so high that only time and posterity can confer it, or else he is one of the Seven Humbugs of Christendom. Contemporary judgments are sound enough on Second Bests; but when it comes to Bests they acclaim ephemerals as immortals, and simultaneously denounce immortals as_pestilent charlatans. Elgar has not left us any room to hedge. From the beginning, quite naturally and as a matter of course, he has played the great game and pro- fessed the Best. He has taken up the work of a great man so spontaneously that it is impossible to believe that he ever gave any consideration to the enormity of the assumption, or was even con- scious of it. But there it is, unmistakable. To the north countryman who, on hearing of Words- worth’s death, said, “I suppose his son will carry on the business,” it would be plain to-day that Elgar is carrying on Beethoven's business. The names are up on the shop front for everyone to read. ELGAR late BEETHOVEN’ & CO.,, Classics and Italian & German Warehousemen. Symphonies, Overtures, Chamber Music, Ora- torios, Bagatelles. This, it will be seen, is a very different chal- lenge from that of, say, Debussy and Stravinsky. You can rave about Stravinsky without the slightest risk of being classed as a lunatic by the next generation. You can declare the “Aprés Midi d’un Faune” the most delightful and enchanting orchestral piece ever written without really com- promising yourself. But, if you say that Elgar’s “Cockaigne” overture combines every classic quality of a concert overture with every lyric and dramatic quality of the overture to “Die Meister- singer”, you are either uttering a platitude as safe as a compliment to Handel on the majesty of the Hallelujah Chorus, or else damning yourself to all critical posterity by a gaffe that will make your grandson blush for you. Personally, I am prepared to take the risk. What do I care about my grandson? Give me “Cockaigne.” . But my recklessness cannot settle the question. It would be so much easier if “Cockaigne” were genre music, with the West- minster chimes, snatches of Yip-i-addy, and a march of the costermongers to Covent Garden. Then we should know where we are: the case would be as simple as Gilbert and Sullivan. But there is nothing of the kind: the material of the “Cockaigne” overture is purely classical. You may hear all sorts of footsteps in it; and it may tell you all sorts of stories; but it is classi- cal music as Beethoven’s “Les Adieux” sonata is classical music: it tells you no story external to itself and yourself. Therefore, who knows wheth- er it appeals to the temporal or the eternal in us; in other words, whether it will be alive or dead in the twenty-first century ? Certain things one can say without hesitation. For example, that Elgar could turn out Debussy and Stravinsky music by the thousand bars for fun in his spare time. That to him such stand- adhiahin ht - 4 : bys as the whole-tone-scale of Debussy, the Helm- holtzian chords of Skryabin, the exciting modula- tions of the operatic school, the zylophone and celesta orchestration by which country dances steal into classical concerts, are what farthings are to a millionaire. That his range is so Han- delian that he can give the people a universal melody or march with as sure a hand as he can give the Philharmonic Society a symphonic adagio, such as has not been given since Beethoven died. That, to come down to technical things, his knowledge of the orchestra is almost uncanny. When Gerontius made Elgar widely known, there was a good deal of fine writing about it; but what every genuine connoisseur in orchestra- tion must have said at the first hearing (among other things) was, “What a devil of a fortissimo!” Here was no literary paper instrumentation, no muddle and noise, but an absolutely new energy given to the band by a consummate knowledge of exactly what it could do and how it could do it. We were fed up to the throats at that time with mere piquancies of orchestration: every scorer of ballets could scatter pearls from the pavillon chinois (alias Jingling Johnny) over the plush and cotton velvet of his harmonies; but Elgar is no mere effect monger: he takes the whole orches- tra in his hand and raises every separate instru- ment in it to its highest efficiency until its strength is as the strength of ten. One was not surprised to learn that he could play them all, and was actually something of a virtuoso on instruments as different as the violin and trombone. The enormous command of existing resources, which this orchestral skill of his exemplifies, ex- tends over the whole musical field, and explains the fact that, though he has a most active and curious mind, he does not appear in music as an experimenter and explorer, like Skryabin and Schonberg. He took music where Beethoven left it, and where Schumann and Brahms found it. Naturally he did not pick up and put on the shackles that Wagner had knocked off, any more than he wore his trumpet parts in tonic and domi- nant cliches in the eighteenth century manner, as some of his contemporaries made a point of honor of doing, for the sake of being in the classical fashion. But his musical mind was formed before Wagner reached him; and his natural power over the material then available was so great that he SIR EDWARD ELGAR Photo by Hoppe was never driven outside it by lack of means for expressing himself. He was no keyboard composer: music wrote itself on the skies for him, and wrote itself in the language perfected by Beethoven and his great predecessors. With the same inheritance, Schu- mann, who had less faculty and less knowledge, devotedly tried to be another Beethoven, and failed. Brahms, with a facility as convenient as Elgar’s, was a musical sensualist with intellectual affectations, and succeeded only as an incoherent voluptuary, too fundamentally addleheaded to make anything great out of the delicious musical luxuries he wallowed in. Mendelssohn was never really in the running: he was, in his own light, impetuous and often lovely style, sui generis, superficial if you like, but always his own unique self, composing in an idiom invented by himself, not following a school and not founding one. Elgar, neither an imitator nor a voluptuary, went his own way without bothering to invent a new language, and by sheer personal originality produced symphonies that are really symphonies in the Beethovenian sense, a feat in which neither Schumann, Mendelssohn nor Brahms, often as they tried, ever succeeded convincingly. If I were king, or Minister of Fine Arts, I would give Elgar an annuity of five thousand dollars a year on condition that he produce a symphony every eighteen months. It will be noted, I hope, that this way of Elgar’s, of accepting the language and forms of his art in his time as quite sufficient for anyone with plenty of courage and a masterly natural com- mand of them, is the way of Shakespeare, of Bach, of all the greatest artists. The notion that Wagner was a great technical innovator is now seen to be a delusion that had already done duty for Mozart and Handel: it meant nothing more than that the born-great composer always has the courage and common sense not to be a pedant. Elgar has certainly never let any pedantry stand in his way. He has indeed not been aware of its academic stumbling blocks; for, like Bach, he has never been taught harmony and counter- point. A person who had been corrupted by Day’s treatise on harmony once tried to describe a phrase of Wagner's to him by a reference to the chord of the supertonic. Elgar opened his eyes wide, and, with an awe which (Continued on page 150) 73

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SOULIE’S BODICE IS LOOSE AND WRINKLED AND HIS SKIRT DEFTLY WIDENED BY DRAPERY = A En Gf /0))) y ~~" » Nn SOQ yyy ey NNN; * CASAS TAR nat v Ss So that summer suns might invite one abroad, but not mar the complexion with their intensity, Soulié makes the \\ SN hat above of white straw, turning its brim down over the eyes and adding a towering crown of black satin and white taffeta. On chilly days one wears an enveloping wrap of beige silk, with loose embroidered sleeves and a deep col- lar of plaited silk, which further en- hances the quaint effect given by the hat. Bands of embroidery, stiff ruches and, above all, taffeta go far to make the springtime mode delightful. Soulié uses whi'e crépe Georgette for the under- skirt of -he frock at the right, and over it drapes a tunic of marron taffeta, em- broidered with bands of mavron silk and weighted at the bottom with a deep waffeta ruche that billows alluringly. Over the simplest frock of black and white foulard Soulié suggests tha: a cape be worn, and makes one of gray cloth, with a wide loose band just a bit lighter in tone than the rest of the wrap. An oddly-shaped tassel swings from the crushed collar and matches in color the soft gray threads that embroider the cape above and below the center band. le

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For semiformal wear a frock is trimmed with lace, and very often the sheer mesh is dyed to match the foundation of the frock. At the left, crépe Georgette in two lovely shades of blue makes the founda- tion of a gown, and from beneath the wide taffeta girdle there ripples a pretty “apron” of blue lace. If you would be quite sure that your frock is a decided success, make it with a simple bodice and give it an “apron,” for all Paris is captivated by them. At the left above, Soulié interprets the apron frock in blue taffeta with an underskirt of brown striped taffeta, and the overdress sim- ply turned up in peasant fashion. A RO — = - BATS For afternoons there is at the left a frock of vivid green taffeta that has the modish width over the hips, as well as loose, graceful panels. Soulié com- bines the green fabric with black satin and embroiders it all with black silks. Sepa rc v dt Against a background of gay-striped garden awnings and delicious tea- tables, what could be more fascinating than the garden-party frock of white taffeta at the right, softly draped at the hips and vested with the same sheer mousseline that makes the sleeves? Soulié trims it with black. 7

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Ona background of dull rose, small buds in green and white bloom to make the adorable foulard from which Soulié fashions his gown at the left. He drapes the skirt up from the front, so that it may be a little shorter in the back, and perversely lengthens the cor- age. Al the waist-line one tucks in a large rose and collars the gown with a frill of while organdie SPRINGTIME COLORS ARE IN SOULIE’S SCHEME, B FAVORS BLACK AND WHITE Skirts this season do very unexpected and attractive things, and often remain loose where heretofore they were lightly seamed, while nol a few puff out bustle fashion in back. Just such an one forms the foundation for Souliés gown above. To make the skirt he has used black satin, left it loose down the front, puffed it a bit in back, and lopped it with a simply-cut bodice, whose extremely short sleeves and trimming of fine jet embroidery are very smart indeed. Springtime and frocks of black and white are quite synonymous this season, and there are endless ways in which they may be developed. Soulié, for instance, plaits black-Georgette crépe for the frock at the right, giving it much fulness over one hip and making the sleeves short and loose. Down the left side he drapes a panel of foulard in black and white, and about the waist crushes soft satin to make a lovely sash with fluttering ends. The fringed parasol is an afterthought. 76

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Tf one were to have a springtime wedding with the yellow of daffodils and buttercu ps for the chosen color, there could be nothing lovelier for the bridesmaids to wear than Soulié’s gown above. Over a slender underslip of white satin he has hung a tunic of softest yellow crépe Georgette, edged with deep bands of creamy Chantilly. The sheer corsage of vellow has been embroidered with silver threads and trimmed with the exquisite lace, while to top it all there is a broad hat of Chantilly, faced with crépe Georgette and trimmed with a single pink rose that Llooms artistically at the edge of the brim. Evening wraps, as well as frocks, have chosen black and white for their favored colors and distinctive bits of trimming or unusual silhouettes to make them smart. This particularly desirable model has long loose sleeves that may be used in the normal fashion or, if one prefers, the arm may slip through an opening in the seam. Soulié makes the wrap of white moire and lines it with black velvet to match the collar, deep cuffs and huge loops that trimit. There are no fastenings lo hold it in place in front, so one draws it closely about the figure or allows it to hang free to suit ihe mood and season

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THE SUMMER BRIDE WILL LIKE THESE LARGE SUN HATS Models from THURN Thurn has mede for the bridesmaid a bewitching creation of pink organdie, broadly brimmed and moderately high of crown, Following a quaint and ex- tremely feminine mode, close frills of Valenciennes are applied under the brim to form an exquisite little cap next the wearer's hair. At one side, in the dainty ruffles, there is a lover’s-knot of French blue ribbon, and pink buttons are caught here and there in the lace. Below is a hat with a moderately sized fluted brim that may be worn with al- most any light summery frock. For it is fashioned of transparent organdie with polka-dots of blue that give it a dainty charm all its own, Miss Allyn King, who helps to make the “Mid- night Frolic’ successful, wears the hat with all the grace in the world. To wear with her trimly tailored traveling suit or serge frock, the bride demands a small close-fitting hat, and Thurn suggests the one above of dark blue straw. It comes well down over the eyebrows and is encircled by small blue flowers, from whose foliage sprays of feathery green wheat stand out with charming irregularity. 78

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Whether she be exquisitely fair or deeply brunette, she will find a lovely setting jor her beauty in the hat below. Its huge brim has been laced with rich cream horsehair straw, and a vivid poppy blooms against the pale background. The crown and upper side of the brim are of straw, as brilliantly red as the poppy, and the straw is of a glossy coarsely-woven variety that gives a thatched effect. Surely, above a frock of ivory crépe de Chine, there could be nothing more enchanting for leisurely afternoons spent upon the country club veranda, The bride, who has among her many frocks one of black and white foulard, will appreciate Thurn’s hat above, for it is of finely woven black straw, and its crown is piled high with ostrich-plumes in dull Bur- gundy. Under the brim, about an inch from the edge, the Burgundy color is repeated in a piping, made by braiding and weaving hundreds of tiny ostrich-flues. Alfred Cheney Johnston Posed by ALLYN KING Perhaps not since the days of lacy mits, ruffled crinolines and be-ribboned bonnets have frocks and hats and even shoes been able to claim for themselves so much of the purely feminine as this season. This year we rejoice in sheer frilled frocks for afternoons, rare laces, draperies or adorably bouffant skirts for evening wear, and hats that are most ravishing. ‘To wear with organdie and light taffeta frocks, Thurn has made large transparent hats of chiffon, tulle or organdie, One especially lovely model is fashioned of pervenche blue tulle and chiffon, and has a huge crown and broad drooping brim. It is trimmed with a chain, the links of which are blue cabochon, and the whole casts an alluring light over the face. At the left Allyn King wears the youthful creation above a frock of chiffon and taffeta to match the blue of the hat, and she is most fetching.

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SOFT DRAPERY AND THE BRIDE’S RARE LACE LEND THEIR CHARM TO THE WEDDING-PARTY This season more than any other. perhaps, the bride will choose rare laces to adorn the lustrous ivory satin of her wedding-gown, and catch in at her softly crushed girdle a trailing garland of orange-buds. Miss E. M. A. Steinmetz, who created the gown, suggests for the maid of honor a dress that bespeaks every grace in its modishly long-waisted corsage and deftly draped skirt.

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At Nice one saw the newest of jackets, fashioned entirely of soft white kid, buttoned and belted in front, but straight and slender in Below it Mademoiselle wore a plaid skirt in gray, green, Another attractive tailleur was the second above of blue serge, with a plaited tunic that hung below the box coat. the back. red and white. WIDER PUFFED O far the short skirt triumphs. Skirts are short and many are straight and slender in silhouette, although actually much wider than last season. Poiret, perhaps, makes more wide skirts than any of the other houses, but even Poiret shows many with the slender silhouette. Many skirts are plaited and fall straight. Inch-wide box-plaits and accordion-plaits are all employed by the dif- ferent houses this year. The waist-line is generally placed at the top of the hips and often about the broadest part of the hips—in the form of a girdle, tied in front or on the side. The Egyptian influence visible in the SKIRTS—LOW SLEEVES—SO black ciré ribbon. THE PARIS collection of Madeleine and Madeleine is respon- sible for the position of the waist-line in that house, some of the girdles being extremely low. Another line favored by all the houses crosses the front at rather a low “normal” line and rounds down in the back to several inches lower than the front, the skirt being attached to the front-top on this drooping line. In some cases the corsage is straight and long, extending well to the top of the hips. It is lengthened in the back by a five-inch girdle which is sewn to the corsage across the back only, drooping in fron: to several inches below the corsage where it is knotted, the ends falling to below the knee. WAIST-LINES—MUCH OPENINGS One of the enveloping capes seen at Nice was white Jersey tricot, gathered upon a yoke and fringed at the end of its scarf collar. With it was worn a Talbot hat of brown straw cloth, banded with At the left of the pillar there is a beige wool jacket and hat; at the right a serge-collared yellow cheviot cape. DRAPERY—TINY DECREE Again, the close-fitting corsage ends abruptly at the waist-line above a widely flaring skirt. Poiret shows a serge frock with the belt posed at a very high line—the skirt distended in paniers at a point well above the hips. In another Poiret frock the corsage consists merely of a five-inch folded gir dle of tulle placed at the bustline, the wide long tulle skirt flaring from this girdle and trailing on the floor. The high collar has practically disappeared from: the grandes maisons—each house showing one or two models—no more. Sleeves are inter- esting. There is a long close sleeve, and a long straight Chinese sleeve, and a long sleeve—Poiret 81

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The panier frock for eve- ning wear is still the mode in Paris, and more alluring and enchanting ones than ever are being created by the couturiers. Bulloz chooses brown taffeta aad lace-trimmed black tulle for the one at the right and adds pink roses for color. . | (( | \ pay : ] ya é BULLOZ ‘igo & * oe MOLYNEUX Over a silver under- slip with a narrow harem skirt, Moly- neux hangs a skirt of silvery mousse- line, embroidered with bright and dull silver, MOLYNEUX ROLANDE ROLANDE Rolande’s evening frock of taffeta brocade above has the skirt made entirely of scal- loped loops of the fabric. features it—which flares to the wrist where it is turned back in a wide cuff. Many sleeves are short, and there are many puffed sleeves—usually flaring sharp- ly from a “dropped” shoulder-seam and gathered again as sharply into a tiny band. Odd is the tiny puffed sleeve, which is seamed in an odd fashion—as if over a mould—making of the sleeve a sort of creaseless bulb of serge or muslin. And it should be remembered that many of these puffed sleeves, even in frocks of serge or taffeta, are of muslin. One other sleeve, short or long, is fea- tured everywhere. This is a sleeve with a close short top, often a raglan or ki- mono effect at the shoulder—and a plait- ed lower part which widens, fan-like, when the arm is lifted. Often this plaited sec- tion extends from a bit above the middle of the upper arm to the wrist, while some- times it falls no lower than the elbow. There is much drapery. Jenny places pouched drapery on the front of the skirt; Premet puffs out bustle-like loops of taffeta in the back; some of the houses place it at the side or side-back of the skirt. Madeleine and Madeleine have a way of drawing folds of silk closely about the figure and up to a point on the left hip in front, where a great knot or loop of silk rests like a great but- terfly. Jackets vary from a brief, collarless, short- sleeved bolero or Eton to a knee-length coat, fitted to the waist-line and flaring below. Some are very short and close-fitting to the waist-line, rippling out sharply over the hips, some are nar- row and straight, falling just to the top of the PANIERS, BUSTLES AND BASQUES ARE The débutante will delight in The “apron” has captured Molyneux’ s brocade and silver lace, with a leather poppy at the girdle. Paris, and so Rolande adds a black and white plaid one to a frock of jet-black taffeta. gown of silver hips, some—“box” in style—are half-length. In all jackets this season there is a surprising ab- sence of the belt and a tendency—sometimes little more—to width at the hips. Capes are not so numerous as last season—a loose cloak, often not quite as long as the frock, being preferred. Such a cloak of serge, for in- stance, is pretty over a foulard frock. Madeleine and Madeleine show a black satin cape of pretty shape, lined with bright green gabardine over a bright green frock. Poiret shows a green coat combined with black satin over a frock of gaily figured foulard. Martial and Armand show a cloak of bright green and wool poplin, trimmed with jet, over a black and green frock. In colors there is much black and marron, strawberry red, green and a great deal of yellow. In tissues this season first place is given to a fine cashmere-like wool poplin, with serge, kasha, ga- bardine, bure and cloth as well. Taffeta is pre- ferred to satin, and there is much crépe Georgette and organdie and tulle of course. Raffia is much used in embroidery and there is, besides, a raffia ribbon and even a raffia tissue, resembling heavy, crinkly crépe, which may be used for gilets or blouses. Jenny uses straw fur for coat-collars, and there are woven straw girdles and ornaments of all sorts. Poiret trims one frock with wide pieces of “rag carpet”—that is, a thin, fine sort of woven strips of tissue exactly like rag carpet in appearance. Madeleine uses metal rings and beads in a very decorative but heavy sort of embroidery. Premet makes collars of sports coats of heavy wool em- broidery, like crochet or tricot of a thick, elabo- rate sort. All the houses employ galon ciré as trimming, and all feature the ruff or ruche of

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Of Watteau inspiration is Mar- tial and Armand’s frock at the left, and its fabric is of the fa- vored taffeta in dark blue. White organdie makes the col- lar, and the cravat is of blue leather, tasseled at the ends, \ ~ . eos Y r G ‘s " 4 4 ; { v 1, ‘ STRIKING FEATURES OF THE NEW PARIS MODE \ 2 ey / Berthe Hermance gives the dark Truly some of the smartest of To simulate plaid upon her ') ‘, i. blue frock above the basque Parisian frocks will have a rufiled taffeta day frock above, pe : BERTHE HERMANCE jf \

Le MARTIAL BERTHE ET ARMAND y, HERMANCE iy | /} . / / 3 "he we = <———

of the eighties and embroiders basque. One black taffeta has Berthe Hermance uses embroid- the corsage in blue and green. aRemond plaid Georgette skirt. ery in green and deep blue silks. finely plaited organdie upon many of their gowns. And as to the panier—Poiret and Lanvin will feature it, but in other houses there is a tendency to shift the bulging drapery to the side-front or side-back, or to dispense with it altogether. The harem skirt has retired, we suppose, to the harem, for not more than half a dozen examples are seen in the hundreds of gowns now being shown in Paris. Corsages, while low, are less low than they have been for months. Worth “Paniers’” at Both Sides and Back ORTH shows this season many very strik- ing evening frocks, some slender in silhou- ette with long, narrow trains, and others short and coquettish, with very wide skirts below small close corsages. Some of the ‘panier models at Worth’s are not only distended on the hips, but also a bit in the back, producing a silhouette which is quite different from that of the other houses. Several very smart models of black satin or taffeta are trimmed with black tulle, lace and flowers. Worth, however, shows little of the slender slip under transparent panier tunics. There is an opaqueness and solidity about some of the wide skirts, even though of tulle, which is very new and interesting. Extremely lovely is a slender draped robe of black crépe Georgette trimmed with touches of jade green, with looped strands of pearls falling in the back from a necklace of pearls down over the top of the draped frock—the looped ends be- ing tucked into the top of the low corsage. Skirts at the Maison Worth are short. The tai- lored skirts are narrow, sometimes showing a few plaits, sometimes with odd projecting folds of different lengths disposed here and there—the top of the fold being cut in one with the skirt. For instance a narrow skirt shows a five-inch fold on one side from the waist-line almost to the knee, falling free on one edge and across the lower end. A similar shorter fold appears on the other side of the skirt and a third, of a different length, in the middle front. Jackets are half-length or longer and rather simple and slender in silhouette, with long straight sleeves which widen somewhat at the wrists. One pretty tailored frock of black kasha has a half- length beltless jacket which is cunningly fitted in at the waist-line, opening in front over a simple blouse of white crépe Georgette, which buttons up the middle front and flares in a great trans- parent cup about the face with wondrously pretty effect. The black jacket sleeves flare at the wrist over a bell-shaped cuff of white crépe Georgette. A white kid flower bound with black is posed on the rever, the slit pockets are outlined with white kid, and a white kid cord and buttons hold the jacket-fronts together at the waist-line. A Worth frock of dark blue taffeta has a small close corsage above a skirt with an open-fronted tunic falling from a thick taffeta-covered cord, which distends the skirt at the hips. Tunic and corsage are adorned with an embroidery of kid appliqué—kid in different shades of rose. Very smart is Epsom, a simple white serge frock with the skirt-front slashed at intervals of one and one-half inches—in a sort of fringe—this “fringe” falling over a deep flounce of thin black embroidered tulle. “Secret” is a blue and white plaid taffeta frock under a sort of overdress of dark blue gabardine panels on each hip, the skirt

MARTIAL ET ARMAND

Lést

MARTIAL ET ARMAND For evening wear Martial and Armand add a bespangled cor- sage to a gown of black taffeta and edge the tunic with a width of black tulle. There is a bustle, of course. 83

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MOST DECORATIVE AND FEMININE ARE THESE FROCKS FROM BOUE SOEURS { summer dance freck has an undershp, narrow and shimmering, of cloth of gold. Upon it there is an overdress of cream lace and delicate embroidery, To give the bus- lle effect watered silk ia palest blue makes a hug bow sash, while moss roses are tucked into the bodice. BOUE SGURS y BOUE SG@URS Boué Seurs name their ajlernoon frock above “Vivandiére” and make it of dark blue taffeta with a fluttering back panel of chiffon, The frock has the popular apron elect in its front panel cf em- “Roitelet” above has been Jashioned by Boué Seeurs of delicate organdie in the most exquisite flesh shade. Flounces of cobwebby lace are ap- plied spirally to skirt and bodice, and from the pink satin sash rosebuds are pendant. broidered cream net and organdie. FRE 1 eho aad of the piaid underdress showing in front and back from the low waist-line. Worth employs much accord- ion plaiting in serge or silk. Odd is a red-and- black foulard with an Eastern embroidery of tiny mirrors of red and yellow thread. More odd is a sort of “bib” corsage front of old blue rubber cloth—the velvety sort of cloth used for rain- coats—embroidered with darker blue. This cor- sage front, attached at the shoulders with a nar- row girdle fastening in the back at the waist-line, appears on a frock of softest white crépe Georg- ette. A black satin-and-tulle frock is trimmed on the tulle overskirt with separate rose and white flower petals. One frock of deepest violet crépe Georg- ette, girdled low about the hips, is trimmed with clusters of grapes in purple and silver paillettes. A blue serge frock, embroidered with coral thread, has a removable serge apron and a great cape lined with white serge—a reversible cape, which may be worn white side out if desired. Many frocks are topped with great finely-plaited ruffs of white organdie. A gold and black cape is topped with a black lace frill, which may be thrown over the head like a veil or hood. There is an exquisite little frock of gold tissue shirred on four cords across the front at the top of the hips = oe are BOUE SGURS i “Marquise” is a dark blue taffeta ajternoon froc k, whose underskirt is fashione d of dee Dp blue embroidered organdie, the flowerlike design being worked upon it with cream silks. Coral taffeta trims the sleeves, and Jor a girdle there are coral and brass beads that sound the prevailing Egyptian note. At the center right Boué Sours have achieved a triumph in a ravishing frock of pale blue organdie and Binche lace. Blue satin ribbon panels flutter from the back and moss-roses are applied on the bodice and skirt while a horn of plenty is deli- cately embroidered on the full front, BP Sae ha ines

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TANS PREMET’S TAFFETA FROCKS HAVE THE NEWEST PARIS SILHOUETTE The bustle is here again, upon frocks of taffeta for the most part, and is delightful in its puffy silhouette. At the right Premet makes a frock of fig- ured rose taffeta and silver lace with a huge bustle drap- ery that covers the entire back of the fashionably short skirt. PREMET PREMET PREMET Above at the left large roses bloom upon the lovely periwin- kle blue of a taffeta evening gown, and, although the back is distended with a huge bustle drapery, the underskirt is quite narrow and ruched with frayed taffeta in a modish fashion. For daytime old blue taffeta is in order, providing, of course, that the frock is bustled. Premet embroiders the one above with red and blue straw and pouches the skirt out on each hip, while the corsage becomes a girdle in back and ties in a bow. and falling plain in the back, and a gorgeous frock of scintillating brocade with a coral red lining which shows here and there. Many Jenny Skirts Are Draped in Front N Jenny’s large, varied and very lovely collec- tion skirts are short and usuaily plaited, jack- ets—some of them—very short, straight and loose, sleeves short or long and straight, and girdles are usually placed at the hips. Several smart models show this extremely low girdle, tied in frontgwith ends falling to the knee. Many skirts are flounced—the flounces often plaited—serge flounces are side-plaited or box- plaited, while flounces of satin ciré, for instance are laid in extremely small plaits with pretty ef- fect. Some skirts are narrow, but, as a rule, skirts at the Maison Jenny are rather wide, some being tightened in at the hem and finished with a ruche. Instead of spreading in paniers on the hips or bulging in bustle drapery in the back, many of the new Jenny skirts are draped in front—paniers and bustle drapery, as it were, worn in front. The effect is odd, new and pretty. One of these models, in black taffeta, has a close-fitting cor- sage topped with an upstanding fringe of old-blue ostrich-flues with small rose and red flowers fall- ing from the décolletage in front. The black taf- feta frock bulges in draped folds just in front of the hips on each side, while the back falls straight and scantily full from the waist-line. “Dauphine” is a startlingly pretty model in black taffeta with a very wide skirt flaring, flounce stitched to flounce, from the waist-line. The close-fitting corsage is collared with white or- gandie, edged with two ruffles of gold ribbon. There are no sleeves. Underneath the wide skirt —and the skirt is extremely wide at its scalloped lower edge—is worn a prim little pair of short black taffeta trousers, edged with two rows of plaited gold ribbon. A murmur of admira- (Continued on page 164) PREMET The back of Premet's rose taficta gown shows a simple bodice and short, almost apol- ogetic, sleeves, edged with delicate silver lace. The skirt is treated deftly, so that the bustle may not only stand out stiffly, but ripple right down to the very hem, PREMET Fi “a Exactly like a mincing young per- son of the eighties is the lady above, except that her skirt is comfortably short and the waist comfortably fitting. Premet uses black and white plaid taffeta and makes it over an underskirt of plain black taffeta. All the scalloped edges of the plaid tunic are frayed. 85

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FIVE PARISIAN WAYS IN WHICH TO MAKE ONE’S SERGE A bit of the redingote has crept into Lelong’s frock at the right, and two folds of material form gores over each hip and fall quite a little below the skirt edge. The frock is of gray serge, embroidered with black, and it opens over a white muslin chemisette. Black taffeta ties in a bow at the neck. LELONG Over an underdress of black satin Bulloz suggests a tunic of blue serge, embroi- dercd with motifs of black raffia, and old-blue and red threads. When the serge tunic is removed, the slip may be used as a jrock. A novel feature is that. Prosaic blue serge is striped with gold and silver to make Martial et Armand’s frock at the right and combined with plain blue serge. Across the front only there is a black satin girdle and a mus- lin gilet shows at the open front. Another light-colored serge frock is sketched at the extreme right. It is soft grayish beige, and the middle of the, front and back of its tunic is plaited. For cuffs and collar, organdie has been embroidered with black toile cirée. ie iam oe Sa ’ 9 ee gg Phe “Sip Pa i. eb BULLOZ MARTIAL ET ARMAND Paris fancies serge frocks this sea- son that are light in hue and elab- orated a bit. One charming in- stance is Lelong’s creation of light biscuit serge, cut with a basque bodice and trimmed with fringe made by fraying the material. From the lower part of the surplice bodice in the back there hangs a wide loose panel of the serge. ‘ Rr arn eet oe eODNE

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~ ote as ss aN aetna " WORTH Again Worth cuts a suit coat with an un- even hem and gives it loose sleeves. This time the suit is made entirely of white serge and stitched heavily to give the effect of braid upon the sleeves. SHORT WITH MANY ODD CONCEITS IN JACKETS Worth widens many jacket sleeves at the wrists and is fond of short, rather narrow skirts for tailored suits. Of darkest blue gabardine is the tailleur at the left, piped all r about the irregular jacket with red. The odd collar and / quaintly conceived cuffs are narrow strips of white linen, At the right, Worth leaves a jacket quite open in the front over a waistcoat of red and white checks and binds the coat with black braid. Against the dark blue serge, from which the suit is fashioned, the crisp white organdie collar and cravate stand out most becomingly and youthfully. below, for a jacket has been cut straight and slim from blue skirt and above it a snug hat of roughened Ilcather. LANVIN PARIS SUITS ARE EXTREMELY Lanvin makes a delightful sports costume in the one white cheviot and banded with black varnished leather upon which appears red stitching. Under it one wears a dark MOLYNEUX For Yvonne Reyn- olds, Molyneux makes a jacket of white leather and embroi- ders it with huge black chenille fruits, and it is worn over a skirt of black Jersey, smartly striped with a white galloon. 87

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OMEONE had sent them to her with a card saying tritely, “Hope the party didn’t bore you last night,” and Lila, when she left her room that afternoon, had thrust them in her belt. They were richer-looking than most yel- low roses, with a flush of summer at the hearts of them, and they gave out a rather extraordinary fragrance, not heavy but persistent. Lila was conscious of that fragrance and luxuri- ated in it, faintly amused at her own susceptibility. From the crown of her wide-brimmed leghorn hat to the tips of her narrow white buckskin shoes, she was as cool as a pond-lily, and she looked it. For a long time—a period, say, of at least three years—che had been bored, and she looked that, too. Her eyes, wide and dark and lovely as they were, were yet the eyes of patient and unprotest- ing disillusionment. She had a smile which ac- cepted nothing, rejected nothing and left most things lying where it found them. However, the eyes were dark-lashed and clear, the smile was soft-lipped and tipped up maddeningly at the cor- ners, so that Lila’s boredom did not get over al- ways of itself, but had not infrequently to be ex- plained in detail to ambitious young men who wished to alleviate it. One such young man was the donor of the yellow roses. Lila had come out to escape him. She had a feeling that he was working toward a crisis of the emotions, and she had no notion of having her stay in New Orleans spoiled by any such awk- wardness. So she pinned on his roses, half a dozen of them, that is to say, and fled. They perceptibly adorned her gown, which was white and in turn adorned herself delightfully. Under her arm she carried, not a broom—(like the old lady of the nursery rhyme, you remem- ber)—but a book, a volume of poems, which she had been reading, when the impulse took her to go forth, and which she had not quite wanted to put down. It was a modest and inconspicuous- looking book, but the poems had been instinct with the maddest sort of romance, and while Lila did not believe in romance she liked to read 88 She was temporarily a creature of the most delicious YELLOW ROSES By FANNIE HEASLIP LEA Illustrated by Walter Everett about it. Most people do. Also she knew that she was safe from any sort of influence such books might hope to have upon her... . So she stood at the corner of Royal and Contiat about an hour before sunset of that delicious afternoon in mid-May and swallowed a yawn. Down the street the sky was turning slightly paler as a preliminary to burnished ardors; one short block away a street-piano began, in a spatter of high notes, tinnily sweet, upon “Il Trovatore.” Above Lila’s rather languid little head a girl with great black eyes and a somewhat greasily crimson mouth leaned out from a wrought-iron balcony. Narrow-fronted, close-windowed houses elbowed each other foreignly along the sidewalk. The Quarter was at its by no means despicable best, happily done with what it was pleased to call the day’s work, lazily ready, or very nearly ready, for dinner and thin French claret. I repeat, neverthe- less, that Lila swallowed a yawn. ECAUSE she had nothing else in especial to do, she continued on her way. Eventually, she came to an old negro woman, sweeping the banquette before a great wide gaping door with a tarnished knocker. The door gave upon a courtyard. Lila glanced in—and was lost. She thought of Lot’s wife, with a flicker of deliberate humor. So long as you retain analytical understanding of your own impulses, there is never any harm in giving away to them. She approached the old woman with a smile and a little gesture of one slim-fingered white hand toward the open doorway. “May I look in?” “ Sho’ kin’,’ said the old woman amiably. Lila looked. The courtyard called her from the first. indiscretion It lay at the end of a passageway, roofed and walled in gray time-tempered stone. _There was an arch,a lantern . . . wrought- iron enclosing sides of misty glass . . . and then a palm-tree, proud as Lucifer, a date- palm, set in a close-walled space under a delicate sky of powder-blue. “Go long in and look all yo’-all likes,” recommended the old woman with unex- pected appreciation—“ ’tain’t gwine hu't nuthin’ ner nobody. . . ” Lila went in. I am aware that she approached the place abruptly, came upon it almost with a stumble, one might say, in the midst of her bore- dom, almost in the midst of her swallowed yawn. That, however, is life, which unlike art some- times cuts corners. The little half-smile wavered on Lila’s lips, when her feet first trod those enchanted flags. She took the old woman’s kindly permission and entered, touched with a vague, unfamiliar excite- ment. : When she stood at the end of the passageway, she was aware at once of an exquisite sense of satisfaction. A moonflower vine, large-leafed and opulent, clung to the farthest wall. There were long fleshy buds, yellowish like cream, which would presently be blooms of shameless magic, when the night came down. Above the wall and the moonflower vine loomed windows, set in an austerely mysterious building of cathedral-like proportions. Lila knew in a moment of breath- less visualization what those distant windows would mean to that courtyard after night-fall . smears of rosy and brazen color on the dark . she found herself longing to come back and verify them. The side-walls showed, one, a dignified blank- ness of outlook; one, the windows and doors of what must have been the slaves’ wing of the house, across which wing a stairway angled steep- ly to the ground, stopping on its way at a variety of unnecessary but delightfully picturesque little landings. There was an old green-painted iron bench beneath the palm-tree. . . “It is exactly,” said Lila to herself, “the sort of thing which I had always supposed didn’t exist.” y q

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She drew an unconscious sigh, and found the old negro woman at her elbow. A silver piece changed hands unobtrusively. “Thank you,” said Lila. “It’s a very lovely place, isn’t it?” “Yas’m, das’ whut I hears de wite folks say.” Subservience, the trained habit of a lifetime, gave way to secret pride: “Ain’ nobody home, ef yo’ likes to see de rooms up-stairs.” “Oh, I couldn’t do that!” said Lila hurriedly. “Ain’ nobody home but me—he ain’ gwine come back ‘til ‘leven er’clock to-night. . .” “The person who lives here, you mean?” “Vas’m—mah boss—he’s don’ g ne away— cumin’ home to-night—das’ w’y ah’m cleanin’ ee Phila considered hesitantly. The thing seemed altogether outrageous, but somehow irresistible. She surrendered with the conservative’s thrill in doing what she felt she shouldn’t. “Oh, very well—I should like to see. . . A moment later she was following the old woman up a wide enclosed stairway leading off the passage. Afterward, when Lila reflected on that first un- believable moment in the room overlooking the courtyard, she tried in vain to reconstruct her feelings. Surprise, of course—a kind of youthful thrill like streaming bubbles in the veins, to which she had long been a stranger—but over and beyond surprise exultation that anything should be so barefacedly romantic, so exotic and yet so undeniably real. “Jes’ yo’ look aroun’ all yo’ wanter,” urged the old woman from the doorway of the inner room. ‘Ah got er heap er cleanin’ up ter do in hyer yit.” She tactfully disappeared, Lila heard her singing to her- self between the swishings of a broom... There were great wide arched Spanish-seeming windows, hung in some Eastern stuff sprinkled with dark embroideries and lit- tle gleaming bits of looking- glass, which looked out upon the courtyard and the palm- tree. Lila stood by the widest window and steeped her soul in the allure of the place. Behind her was a table with a lamp, shaded in faded amber silk, and an oddly assorted lot of books, mostly novels, not too modern. More _ books crowded a slim black walnut book-case on the other side of the room and spilled off a set of shelves. There were pictures on the walls, wilful, unrelated pictures, a pastel of bayou, gleaming sul- lenly between dim _live-oak- shaded banks; a _ Beardsley drawing of Poe’s black cat; an oversweet steel engraving of a woman’s head, in the manner of the early seventies; a rather good French print, naively shocking—white, against a closed door hung with shadowy dark silk, gleamed the most amazing lantern that Lila had ever seen, greenish brass, studded with great crimson and blue and purple stones. It was a lantern which might have lighted Sche- herezade to conversational safe- ty—or one of the Contes Dro- latiques to a successful ending. Lila went to stand beneath it, intrigued beyond words, and found herself directly facing the gentlest St. Chrysostom that she had ever seen. Black-robed and priestly, he spread thin hands ” in blessing from the top of a ,, tall, narrow table, while either tf ; side of his bisque holiness stood e nat small adoring angels. They were entirely Gallic angels— worshipful of gesture, reverent hands folded upon white-draped breasts, gold-tipped wings ris- ing into prayerful points behind bent heads—but such heads! Such sophisticated white curls flowing carefully down upon such small voluptuous shoul- ders! Such small, coquettish pink and white faces! tom, “are Ninon de l’Enclos—and you-—” to the one on the left, “are Manon Lescaut. You de- mure little hypocrites!—whatever are you doing beside that unsuspecting saint ?” She turned, leaning against the wall beneath the unexpurgated lantern, and a smile touched her mouth. She was thinking that she could see, as dis- tinctly as if he were facing her from the doorway of the inner room, the man to whom this place belonged: deep romantic eyes, thick-lashed and dreaming, fine sensitive mouth, beautifully-molded chin, thick dark hair, a little overlong perhaps— but then one needn’t be critical. He would be young, undoubtedly, and ardent—and he would smoke a great many cigarettes of an evening, lounging in the window there beneath a warm, honey-colored moon . . . the small wise woman- angels watching him from beneath the outspread hands of their patron saint. He would undoubt- edly wear a flowing tie, this man whose hands had hung the Delhi curtains in the same room with a faded French print and a mid-Victorian bookcase—it was by no means incredible that he should wear a black velvet jacket—Rodolphe and Mimi drifted through Lila’s mind . . . Rodolphe —that was it! Rodolphe, with just a dash of Bel-Ami! Lila, visualized him slim and panther-supple, leaning against the doorway, smiling not without a sort of subtle insolence . .. the kind of man that women adored—and for whom they made mistakes ...the kind of man whose hands women remembered, and deliciously fearing, re- turned to .. . again and again... . There ought to be delicate footprints on the floor—elusive hints of fragrance in the curtains— a glove or a gossamer handkerchief forgotten on the table . . . it was that and that only the room lacked; otherwise, the perfect. haunt of Romance. [ILA flushed and cast a sidelong glance into the inner room where the old woman, stil] sing- ing in a cracked sweet falsetto, was busy with broom and dust-pan. No audience there—the ancient warbler was obviously whole-souled in her task. Seeing which, teeth on her lower lip and eyes narrowing to a smile, Lila opened the book she carried and moving with swift light footsteps laid it thus open upon the table beside the window. Across a page, already dog-eared and uelicately lined in pencil, she laid the sweetly drooping yellow roses, drawn from the jeweled pin that held them to her waist. First, though, she bent one breathless moment above the underscored lines—Romance in that moment had her by the hand. She was a creature, temporarily, of delicious indiscretion—almost the dark-eyed young man in the black velvet jacket looked over her slender shoulder—almost they read together: “Do you remember once, in Paris of glad faces, The night we wandered off under the third moon’s rays And leaving far behind bright streets and busy places, Stood where the Seine flowed down between its quiet quays? “The city’s voice was hushed: the placid lustrous waters Mirrored the walls across where orange win- dows burned. (Continued on page 154) a ~~ With the tips of her fingers, Lila touched them caressingly. “You,” she whispered to the one on the right of St. Chrysos- ‘*Not nearly so alive as now, 99 whispered Lila, the shameless

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THROUGH ¢he EYES of a MARINE The Strikingly Original War Drawings by Claggett Wilson “Saviors of France.” In the spirit, Jeanne d’ Arc, St. Louts and Clovis. In the flesh, the hands of the common soldier; over the steaming battle-field hovers, like a sea of pale lilies, a my- riad of up- reaching hands. EE SE OE LORS N marked oontrast to the volume and quality of the litera- ture which has come out of the war is the scarcity and, in general, the stereotyped nature of the art produced under its stimulus. True, there have been occasional pic- tures, such as Sargent’s ‘‘ Gassed,” which have stood out; but until Knoedler presented the drawings of Claggett Wilson, there had seemed to be no collection of battle-field impressions giving the diverse points of view of a combatant. Claggett Wilson went to France, in June 1917, as a private in the 5th Regiment of Marines, was later transferred to the 4th French Army for experience as a line officer, saw action on the Chemin des Dames, and at Rheims and Verdun, rejoining the Marines just before the Bois de Belleau fight. After being evacuated to the hospital at Dijon, he was made aide to Brig. Gen. Neville, commanding the ) e Brigade, and was in action until the signing of the Armistice. But Claggett Wilson needs no official certificate to prove that he was in the thick of the fighting. His drawings bear ample witness to that. Many are horrible, a few are fraught with a grim humor, and all are vital intboth conceptionjand color. Muy , © a ’ “ Marine Scout on the Lucy-Torcy Road “Vision” — Easter morning in the at Dusk” —a whimsical drawing typif ying trenches before Rheims. A Madonna and the raw-boned marine, gawky but alert. soldiers’ hands raised in supplication.

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DLE ete ccd aetna A RN REARS A GEISLER & AnOREWS There is ndét the slightest doubt that the warm sands of a Southern beach are exactly what appeals to little Douglas Ordt, and, to show his utter indifference to beating sun rays, he has turned up his sailor hat. ALONG FIFTH AVENUE With the GADABOUT HIS seems to be a season of retrospection in dress. The quaintness of the early eighties, the pretentions of the Louis’, the past grandeur of the Orient and the barbaric splendor of ancient Egypt have all been permitted to influence the mode. And of all these, it is Egypt perhaps that pleases | us most. For, from under the mystery of temple Mw and tomb, of pylon and palace, there have been Bergdorf Goodman has an adorable after- unearthed silhouettes, designs and ornaments Another Bergdorf Goodman frock for after- noon frock of navy crépe Georgette, sashed which delightfully recall Isis, the goddess, and noon has a striking bustle sash of crisp taf- with satin in a spectacular way and trimmed Cleopatra the enchantress. } , feta, an overdress of coarsely woven écru lace with motifs and bands of beige Georgette. Kurzman, I am told, has thrown himself with and a slim foundation of the taffeta marked enthusiasm into this furor Egyptienne: I seek him out. In reply to my query, I am shown a certain dinner gown. It is a cloud of blue and green with dashes of stronger color, and, as it is suspended aloft in the hands of a vendeuse and its folds fall into position, I exclaim at its strange beauty. The foundation seems to be a straight, slim underslip of bright green crépe, completely veiled in chiffon of an intense Oriental blue, which fol- lows its straight unbroken lines. The neck is only moderately low and is cut straight across shoulders, back and front. There are no sleeves, unless one may so call voluminous breadths of blue chiffon, which arise from the back of the gown from shoulder to hem and fall forward over the arms. About the hips is clasped a girdle with a broad knee-length tab, upon which Lotus and Isis and cabalistic triangles are heavily embroidered in silken threads of blue, green, yellow and black, with a vivid copper predominating. Porcelain nailheads of green and copper placed at intervals give accent and relief to its rich flat surface. Surely the wearer of this robe should bind about her brow a golden serpent and hold in her right hand a crystal divining orb! To Mr. Kurzman I protest my sincere admira- tion for this artistic triumph, and he reveals to me something of the art and science and patient delving which went into its production. The vibrant colors are no mere approximation of the tints and tones of antiquity; they are faithful reproductions of the colorings of antique Egyptian beads, scarabs and .pottery. An expert chemist in a Parisian laboratory has worked for months to achieve these convincing shades. A great French antiquarian has in his atelier molded the scarabs and seals and daggers and even tiny figurines and ete, cameo heads of porcelain, mostly blue or green, O ate ee , r 3 3 : ne of the most fascinating of Kurzman’s which are to be inserted in hats and embroidered f J . . : accessories, or worn in pendants this spring and ‘ : 3 Its panel-like sashes are weighted with summer “ itt and embroidered in Egyptian reds, blues and: tassels, and its sheer collar is of organdie. As for the designs, there is placed before me a yellows. The Lewis hat is of blue flowers. Dull blue matelassé makes this most youth- ful of frocks from Bergdorf Goodman. Egyptian frocks is built of mummy cloth 91

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Louise adds a large black straw hat, trimmed with glistening celephane Jrock of black satin, collared with white and trimmed with Japanese roses, to a simple embroidery in silk. French tome, open at the reproduction of a bas- relief of Abydos, in which Seti I., with majestic towering headdress, is girdled exactly as is the ravishing dinner gown of blue and green. It was Suzanne Talbot, I am told, who, as she composed the headdress for Mary Garden's im- personation of Cleopatra, first saw the enormous possibilities in the Egyptian silhouette. She gave the impulse, and the coming season will see its full expression in hat, gown, embroidered design and jewels. Hats of lace, with flaring nimbus above the brow and pendant chains of beads looped below the chin from ear to ear and falling low on the neck and breast, will be much worn this spring. And not a whit less popular will be the small close toque of straw, with the folds of tubular braid on each side of the forehead that are clearly inspired by the stiff Egyptian wig. I am fired with enthusiasm for the Egyptian impulse in fashion and keen to learn just how far it is to find expression, so I hie myself to the firm of Bob to see if it also extends to shoes. Knowing that this house has produced so many delightful foibles for the feet, and shown itself so ready to meet half-way the moods of Madame la Mode, I eagerly ascend the stair to their charm- ing showrooms. Mme. Bob assures me that she too has had intimation of this coming fancy for the Egyptian and is.prepared to meet it. For luncheon and afternoon frocks and daytime house-gowns of this type, she has designed the most ravishing sandals. Their high-arched heels are of more substantial build than those of the usual evening slipper. They have rather shallow toe-vamps and rather high backs, which are so cut that they do not meet at the ball of the foot. Instead, they fall several inches short of meeting, so that the silken sole, ball of the foot and instep are revealed. A strap passes about the ankle from the heel piece, while a second strap attached to the middle of the vamp passes from the toe to the ankle-strap above, thus holding the whole firmly in position. This model is done in both dark blue and copper moire with happy effect, and with it Mme. Bob advises that a taupe stock- ing be worn. The woman who is preparing to wear evening gowns in Egyptian feeling will find awaiting her here another truly fascinating little sandal. Its vamp is classically low and perforated; an open- work strap crosses the instep, while the ankle is clasped by two broad straps placed close to- gether, thus giving quite the effect of the Oriental anklet. It is suggested that this model be done in gilded or bronzed kid, or in metal brocade, and that it be worn over a flesh-colored stocking. Time was when the shoe that’ presented the slightest deviation from the traditional was con- 92 BO EEA OIE PE RTNDERELE. CH * TMS ORRIN dae InTERmATIONAL — Mrs. George Humphreys joined the Ir. and throng of those who preferred a winter of sun and blue skies to one of snow and sharp winds. sidered—well, just a trifle outré. That time is no more. In these charming accessories, so imaginatively contrived, one recognizes the fitting complements of the frocks worn above them. The traditional models will still be with us, for there are many costumes that call for them insistently, but the newer modes in footgear are a delightful and much-needed addition to these older ones. If the shoe may deviate from established con- vention, so may the glove. I saw a day or two since at Centemeri’s a pair of two-clasp gloves in white glacé, the ornamentation of which was up-to-datishly Egyptienne. They were heavily stitched on the back with black and white silk in a block check design, while a saw-tooth appliqué NJ At Miss Carroil’s one may find this frock of black taffeta embroidered with fuzzy white yarn, or the equally delightful little crea- tion of blue crépe de Chine, the apron flounces of which are bound with the material. Louise’s frock of palest rose-pink voile is delicately embroidered with white and has crisp little revers of white organdie. of black glacé kid banded the wrist. These are for the long-sleeved tailleur, which is to be topped by a severe Egyptian peruque-like toque. Owing to the dominating short-sleeved day frock, the glove of the season promises to be of long mousque- taire type in white, cream or sand glacé, heavily stitched in self color. Since it is to be a season of pronounced feminin- ity a sunshade will—or should—accompany every out-of-door costume. Do sunshades, too, suggest the Egyptian feeling? One of our own great wholesale firms has assigned a studio and an espe- cial artist to the timely task of decorating silken parasols with Egyptian motifs. One sunshade of dark Egyptian blue shows the snowy lotus float- ing on its surface. The sacred ibis and flying scarab are other emblems which adorn green or antique red sunshades. But if one’s mood demands the frivolities of the eighties, rather than the mystical symbols of remote Egypt, there are lovely befurbelowed crea- tions of taffeta to be had. I am enraptured with a parasol shown me at Lord and Taylor’s. It is of moderate size and rounded frame, with medium long stick of apple-wood capped at ferule-tip and handle with French ivory. The enchantingly lovely cover is of soft light rose taffeta, closely flounced from ferule to edge with three-inch frills of the taffeta, scalloped and picoted. It looks like nothing so much as a great fully blown June rose. Quite inimitable as the accompaniment of pongee- or beige tricolette frock is another sunshade in pale beige taffeta, with a length of old gold velvet ribbon drawn in and out along its rim and then knotted in a coquettish bow. The extreme edge of this charming model is bordered with a three- inch knife-plaited frill of beige taffeta. I repair for luncheon to the Ritz. This is the eve of April, and everybody is already garbed for the post-Lenten season in town. A picturesque young matron, sitting near me, is clad in a charm- ing gown of lustrous black satin with round-cut neck, loose three-quarter sleeves, bodice slightly bloused in both front and back, and skirt gathered somewhat above the ankles and attached to a deep and narrow satin hem. On this simple foundation are applied embroidered triangles (encore la mode Egyptienne) in gold and silver thread and antique green and red silk. I can but admire their clever placing—with the apex up, one is applied just above the wrist at the back of each sleeve. Another is placed across the bust with the tip of its apex tucked well into the open throat. From each underarm seam just above the waist-line a triangle emerges, its base applied straight up and down along the seam, its apex aimed directly across the corsage. With the base up and apex down, a final triangle is placed along the top of the skirt’s deep hem; exactly in the center of the front. The accentua- tion given by the applied motifs is altogether de-

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Oue of Louise’s most sum- gowns has a knife- pink and white figured Georgett: mery plaited overdress of and a white cherry-trimmed sash, collar ard underslip. lightful, and the simple elegance of this gown is indescribable. The woman, whose allure is piguante rather than picturesque, need not despair, for the panier lingers on, and the dashing fashions of the eighties are just arriving. A lovely blue crépe frock across the room, with square-cut corsage and less than elbow sleeves, is snugly bound in at the waist with a broad draped girdle. This fastens at the left hip with a large cocarde of pinked and plaited taffeta in still darker blue. The skirt is fairly short, and just below the knees it is banded with applied taffeta cocardes of large dimension placed around the skirt at spacious intervals. Then the redingote! There it is in dull buff tussore, cut out at the throat, closing diagonally across the corsage to the opposite hip, and then buttoning down the side to a point below the knees. A three-inch band of even-striped black and white silk borders the entire front opening of this redingote—neck, diagonal front, buttoned side and all—as well as the wrist cuffs. With the redingote frock is worn a short tussore cape of postilion cut that just covers the shoul- ders. The bust and waist-line are quite clearly defined, and the skirt of the coat springs away from the figure below the hips with a decided flare. Beneath it is worn a short skirt of the striped silk, narrow in effect, despite the fact that it is closely knife plaited. The tailleur of early spring, I remark, as I look about me, is almost invariably classic in sugges- tion. If the skirt is straight and plain, the jacket displays a peplum of from hip-to-knee-length and very flaring. Other models show a short jacket above, with a long tunic of wool attached to the underskirt, and very often this underskirt is of silk or satin. Entire tailleurs of black silk are to be extremely modish, I see. Often their skirts are paniered on one side only, and are surmounted by very short boleros under which are worn decolleté and sleeve- less corsages. This type of tailleur will be in excellent form for afternoon functions, as well as for street wear. The antique spirit is truly rampant. Not long ago, I actually saw hanging on the wrist of a charming woman a beaded bag ornamented with designs which were clearly inspired by the fero- cious bas-reliefs of Assyria-Chaldia. Two lions faced each other in majestic wrath, and all the glory of bright primitive coloring—vivid brown, mustard yellow and glaring blue were blended into an effective bit of decorative workmanship. As I admired this chef d’euvre, its possessor unclasped Mrs. John M. Rutherfurd of New York par- ticipated in the golf tournament played by in some of the women who wintcred in the South, fod the form of gay her bathing-suit and the heavy silver top and drew out a change purse. On each side a beaded cherubim spread its sym- bolic wings. I asked from whence this delightful bauble had come and was told that it was one of the unique importations of Mr. Lichtenstein. Many of this season’s hand-bags will be of suéde. I was greatly attracted by one of moder- ate size in a delicious shade of soft light brown with heavily carved frame and clasp of burnt ivory. Its wrist-strap of suede was barred at in- tervals with bits of mellow carved ivory. The flat envelope purse of moire will be greatly in evidence this season, as it was last. Many of these models, which measure from five to eight inches in length, are of darkest téte-de-négre, clasped with carved gold, and are an exquisite addition to a spring costume of black or beige. But truly the woman of no matter what allure may be appropriately bonneted this season, for headgear of infinite variety greets the shopper at every turn. Orange and yellow dominate, but do not mo- M. / Hollander has two sports jackets of duvetyn. The one at the left is taupe and boasts a long scarf-collar to wind about the throat; the other is a deep henna-red and is worn over sheer guimpes of organdie and batiste. Mrs. Craig Biddle adopls the Egyptian mode ImTERmATIONAL trim cap. embroidery to snugly fitting Miss Carroll makes a slender frock of écru net, embroidered with soft-toned silks and paneled with loops of brown charmeuse. nopolize. High draped turbans of orange batavia with crowns of generous diameter are much the mode, as are toques entirely composed of golden buttercups. I saw but a day or two ago a broad- brimmed hat of brown straw, which was turned abruptly back from the brow, the reversed front brim being entirely faced with buttercups. Two pins of clouded amber with heads as large as kumquats served to attach this to the head. A severely tailored woman will delight in a small- ish hat of tricorne suggestion in patent leather. An aggressive glistening bow of the same leather stands out crisply at one side. Above austere blue serge this would be quite perfect. The pictorial woman still survives, and for her there are lovely confections as big as a cart-wheel of transparent black, untrimmed save by fluffs of the same airy fabric. The drooping plume, par- tially encircling a straw frame of moderate, irregu- lar brim and rather high crown and then drooping behind the left ear, is hers as well. As for the jeune fille, she has been most consid- erately remembered by the great modistes. If she is a ruddy brunette, I would suggest for her a yellowish leghorn with drooping brim. Its high crown is partially hidden by an encircling fold of apricot velvet, its brim is flatly covered with an enveloping circular surface of matching velvet, deeply scalloped and silk bound about the edge. Loops of velvet stand out from the crown. For her again is a very stiff broad-brimmed sailor of natural manila, the low crown of which is hedged all round about with black patent-leather foliage in which nestle bright green cherries. “How would one summarize?” asks my vis-d- vis. “Egyptian ornamentation and coloring for those who like and can wear it,” I reply. “A somewhat classic tendency in tailleurs; a strong feeling of the eighties in frocks of silken weave; skirts, on the whole, twelve inches above the ground; sleeves long, or loosely three-quarter on tailored suits, elbow length or shorter on day frocks, and abso- lutely not at all on evening gowns. Hats Chinese or Egyptian, if one chooses, and picturesquely broad-brimmed, if one so desires. Shoes more and more Gallic in general silhouette and with a diversity of ornamentation.” “Stop!” she begs. “A summary, my dear, should be brief. My brain reels!” I then become laconic. I tell her that a woman may wear about anything this season that be- comes her figure and suits her type. Only the enormous sleeves and high-perched hats of the nineties seem to be forbidden her. 93

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VERY SMART WILL BE THE FOULARD FROCK WITH LONG Foulard frocks in which one will walk abroad during spring and summer will claim, among their attractions, bodices that are simple and perhaps low of waist, and skirts that have a bit of drapery or fulness at the hips. Of softest gray Chippendale print, patterned with violet, blues and greens, the frock is apt to be, as in the sketch above at the left. Georgette faces the broad drooping straw hat, and a single plume is laid upon its brim. Upon the sleeves and skirt of the second frock there are soft-plaited flounces to make it youthful, and a high upstanding organdie collar to give it a bit of dignity. For this origination a dark blue Chippendale, printed with silver gray foliage, has been chosen; and one completes the costume with a slightly tilted flower-covered chapeau.

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SASHED WAIST ATOP A DRAPED OR PLAITED SKIRT Above at the left Miss Steinmetz gives a soft afternoon gown the necessary fulness at the hips by the wide crushed sash which ties at one side and hangs in long ends to the hem of the frock. The sash, by the way, has come into its own this season, and upon its broad bows and fluttering ends often depends the silhoueste of a gown. For the frock in the center there has been chosen a Chippen- dale print, upon whose glossy blue surface there bloom conventionalized white blossoms. The skirt is full and plaited from the hips, and the bodice simply drawn about the figure and adorned with a soft batiste frill. The last frock relies much upon the youthful simplicity of its lines for its charm, and tts fabric is gray-blue printed Chippendale, with a striking pattern of white lines. 95

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WOMEN AS CHARMERS By ARNOLD BENNETT Drawings by Frederick T. Chapman OMEN constitute a spectacle, not only for man, bu for mankind. When Jack takes Jill out for a walk in some public promenade, he knows just as well as she knows that part of her function is to show herself, to contribute to the great spectacle of her sex. He may grumble at the cost of her clothes; he may make irrational and unfair remarks concerning the futility of merc appearances; he will almost certainly get irritable, because in he anxiety about appearances she has kept him waiting at the stari nevertheless he would be discontented if she, as his own particular Jill, failed worthily to play her part in the spectacle. The spectacle is a delight to the eye. It may and probably does stimulate thoughts which lead to actions that have their influence upon the future of the race; but it is primarily the eye's affair Now-there was a strange period in the history of the northern peoples when the delights of the eye were regarded with suspicion, even with disapprobation, and when it seemed to be considered that the eye was a culprit among our sensory organs and ought to be deprived of satisfaction; the other organs were entitled to their appetites, but not the eye, the theory being that appearances were in themselves wicked and, if they could not be suppressed, should at any rate be reduced to a minimum. This period has passed away by reason of its unnatural perversity, and few regret it. The claims of the eye are now once more fully recognized Women are the supreme purveyors to the eye, by virtue of their superior grace, beauty and interest in line and color; also by virtue of a fundamental quality, not to be analyzed, from which these qualities perhaps spring. I do not mean that men have no spec- tacular value, no grace, beauty, nor interest in line and color. They have. For no single human quality is confined to one sex; and, moreover, it is notorious that some men have more grace and beauty than some women; it is notorious, further, that women find pleasure in the spectacle of men. The broad fact, however, remains that women appeal more to the eye than men. A crowd comprising both sexes would far sooner behold a spectacle which consisted solely of women than a spectacle which consisted solely of men; and a crowd comprising only women would obtain more ocular gratification from looking at women than a crowd comprising only men would obtain from looking at men. You may say what you please against the phenomenon that I have described. You may attribute its origin to base instincts or to fine instincts; you may assert that, in a double and derogatory sense, there is more in it than meets the eye. No matter! The phenomenon exists, and it is permanent. That it has tremendous value in the world can be instantly perceived by imagining what would be the result upon our daily lives: if women were never publicly seen, or if they always wore a uniform, or if they had to keep to sombre colors, or if they ceased to feel an interest in costume and looks. | | —_ ~«_ i ; | 4 ___ her at a Jill takes an hour and a half to Cc Women are the supreme pur- veyors tue of to then the eye superior herself by \ grace. ~~ “ye. wD vir- Conceive a theatrical audience exclusively male. Conceive streets full of female dowdies and slovens. Conceive dances where the women were dressed all alike, as men are, and where they despised grace. The women might without ex- ception be angels of goodness and acquiescence, and their invisible souls might be marvelously beautiful, but the world would be a different place and a gloomier place and a worse place, and the zest of life would be diminished. Indubitably an appreciable proportion of that which renders existence desirable depends upon the physical aspects of women in public. Part of the felicity of mankind has thus been committed to their charge. And although, in giving more attention than men to complexion, costume, atti- tude and movement, they may be obeying an instinct, they are at the same time fulfilling a solemn social duty; they are making an essential contribution to the well-being of the body politic; and they are doing something which men cannot effectively do. And men are never jealous of their success, any more than women are jealous of the success of men in, say, feats of strength or muscular endurance. Such is one of the great public duties of women. They also have a private duty of a similar kind. But there is this to be said against women, that whereas they are very conscientious in the first, they are often less so in the second. Their excuse must be that the private duty is more continuous and also more exacting. It is more exacting because it is both physical and moral in its nature. As regards the physical side of woman’s réle in the home, I am not one of those who maintain that a wife must always delight the eye of her SE to VETS

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WET G cn CREE toed erotae Read husband and that what are called the “mysteries” of the toilet should never be performed except when he is looking the other way. The thing is im- possible in any normal mode of living, and if it were possible it would be absurd and would im- pair a natural intimacy. Jill is apt to fail in the affair which she can accomplish and which Jack cannot accomplish. Jack adorns himself for dinner in precisely the same number of minutes, whether the mighty of the land are coming to dine or whether he is to dine with only Jill. When Jill takes an hour and a half to adorn herself for a special occasion and two minutes for Jack alone, Jack will be thinking in his heart: “The bargain seems a bit un- even, and if I showed such apathy in keeping the wolf from the door, or in defending her against a burglar, troube would probably ensue in this household.” And here I must refer to the delicate subject of cosmetics. I ~~ am not prepared to animadvert a. : = eo ° > £ — upon cosmetics. Indeed, I read- iw = _____._ er ily admit that an institution so .the delights of the eye were regarded with suspicton, even disapprobation ancient and universal must have a great deal to recommend it. Cosmetics may be unhealthy for the skin, but there are times when by deceiving the eye they unquestionably add to the joy of life. A woman seen across a theatre, however, may be quite a different apparition when separated from the observer by merely half the length of a sofa. I need not insist. We know what we know. It is sufficient to add that terrible revelations have occurred on sofas; that cosmetics may be admirable at one moment and repulsive at another; that cosmetics are the enemy of intimacy; and that if Jill forgets the great scientific truth that the inconvenience of cosmetics varies inversely with the square of the distance, she is behaving unfairly not oniy to Jack but to herself. Yet Jills exist who, lacking imaginations, are guilty of this criminal folly. I pass to the moral side, as distinguished from the physical side, of women’s private duty. Men and women have many private duties in common, but just as Jill has a physical duty for which Jack was not designed by nature, so she has a corresponding moral duty. I do not wish to wear out a word which everybody under- stands, but which nobody has successfully defined—charm. I simply mention it and point out that besides the division of charm into physical and moral, there is a subdivision of moral charm into the charm which a woman exercises unconsciously and cannot help exercising, and the charm which she exercises consciously. It is only the last which will repay our attention. Jill has a natural gift for persuasion, for soothing, for lubrication of the wheels of existence, by means of an activity which has little to do with the reasoning faculty. This gift is extraordinarily valuable. In fact it will often accomplish needful miracles, when all other devices would fail. It’s not so casy to be charming, when Jack's cross and everything seems to be wrong. The exercise of the gift, like the exercise of many other gifts, involves exertion and self-con- trol. Jill usually does exercise it. But nearly all Jills, in exercising it, think that they are conferring a favor upon their Jacks and performing prodigies of self-efiacement; and when they do not exercise it they argue to themselves, or even aloud: “Jack doesn’t do it to me. Why should I do it to him?” The argument is not a good one. Jill, in func- tioning as balm to an irritable Jack, is no more conferring a favor upon him than he is conferring a favor upon her in earning a livelihood for her. Jack may be able to lubricate in an inferior mas- culine way, but the gift and the task are not specially his, whereas the gift and the task are specially Jill’s. I am acquainted, and we are all acquainted, with Jills who, while doing naught but amateur- ishly directing the household, entirely omit the duty of moral charm. They might exercise their gift; they do not exercise it. They are cheats, for they have entered into a bargain and are not keep- ing it. They take more than they give. And yet, if they were ac- cused face to face of a malpractice, I expect they would be genuinely indignant and_ repudiate the charge absolutely. In this connection I may cite an episode in the conjugal life of a certain contemporary Jack and Jill whom I mentioned in my second chapter. They had been married some years—more than three—and Jill had got quite ac- customed to Jack, whose nightly return home no longer provided an ecstasy for her. She was also well set in the habit of owning Jack and the child. Jack especiaily was her property. She undoubt- edly loved him much, but she had a passion for owning him rather than a passion for him. She watched him, and watched over him, and tended him, and pruned him, and pulled the dead leaves off him, and watered him, and turned sunshine on to him, and occasionally neglected him as if he had been a favorite plant in her garden. She would not let anybody else touch him, nor be- little him, though she could be a pretty fearless critic of him herself. She was—and still is—a nice and good woman, with plenty of charm up her sleeve, and she could be quite stylish when she chose. But she was apt to pro- duce her charm and her chic by fits and starts. She would ap- parently forget her abilities for a period, and then she would re- member them as if in a shock of awakening, and would indulge Jack and the world with great quantities of charm and chic, and then would forget again. In short, she was exactly like a good many excellent wives, and just about as human as the most of us are. I called in one evening. Jill was alone. She said in a casual pleasant tone that Jack had “had to go” to his club, as if there was nothing in the least unusual about that. I at once per- ceived that some slight trouble had occurred be- tween them; for it was known to me that Jack never went to his club (which was mine) at night. So I thrust Jack out of the conversation and be- gan to talk about Jill’s affairs, and in particular about a new post which she had been thinking of for herself. The Economic Circle, of which for some time she had acted as responsible housekeeping man- ager, had come to an end, a fate which somehow often overtakes local enterprises for the better- ment of respectable and successful people’s minds. The Economic Circle had started in all the bright glory of moral enthusiasm, had languished, and expired. The Lawn Tennis Club, however, con- tinued to flourish heartily. “I do not know that I shall take any new post at all,” she said, in a changed, tart tone. I asked why. She replied: ‘You've been talking to Jack. I know you have.” You see, I was Jack’s friend, and therefore she occasionally held it to be her right to regard me, in an amicable, reproachful way, as her enemy. In such crises I was privileged to receive in my person the darts which for reasons of her own she preferred not to shoot at Jack himself. I be- came the representative of a whole sex, which was at discord with her own sex. I saw that by chance I had stepped right into the conjugal trouble. What exactly the trouble was I never discovered, but it was connected with the proposal for her new post, to which, I may say, they had both been favorable. “Yes,” she went on, after I had murmured some fib, “Jack was very cross to-night—and of course he said it was my fault.” “TI dare say it was,” I replied. “How do you know?” she protested. “That’s just like you, that is! You don’t know anything about it, and yet you say it was all my fault!” “I didn’t say that,” I retorted. “What I meant was that it may very well have been your fault. Jack comes home to you. You preside over the evening. It’s your show. He eats and drinks what you give him. He sits on chairs that you’ve appointed for him to sit on. Even the lamp shades are your scheme. The whole atmosphere is yours, and you're the chief entertainer. The evening fails. Well, it's up to you. You started out to do something, and you didn’t do it.” “What did I start out to do?” “Didn't you start out to make the evening pleasant for beth of you? He’s gone to his club.” She shook her head. “Then perhaps I was wrong,” I said. “Perhaps you didn’t start out to make the evening pleasant for Jack.” She answered: “No doubt you think you're very clever.” (Continued on page 126) 97

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mit Av ie) NG fe ini, § | Paris is always delighted with tulle for the adornment of evening frocks, and this season we find it more often than ever in the form of drapery. Chanel uses it in pale gray to make paniers for a gown which she has fashioned of silver-embroidered gray net over gray charmeuse. 98 Af) \ na i LAVISH FROCKS THAT BESTOW A CONSCIOUS GRACE Models from Jenny sends Bendel a frock of foulard with gay peonies in rose red, blue and white printed upon it. Over the shoulders one throws a cape of blue serge, lined with vivid foulard like the frock. Bendel’s hat of Egyptian inspiration is made of black milan and _ jet. Frocks of white are often embroidered in gay hues, as is Chanel’s model of white China silk above at the right. Magenta and black silks are the colors used, and Bendel adds a white hemp hat with a white organdie crown. In a lavish mood, Bendel used large baroque pearls and gleaming bits of crystal to adorn an exquisitely dainty evening gown. The skirt is embroidered with the jewels in Egyptian motifs on a ground of white net, and the foundation of the gown is shimmering white charmeuse. PRES ic ae RRC RTT nates Sn RPS

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SNORT aide. a wwe Alas GRISE Se a 1S ERR ABIED RE A broad sweeping brim that droops just a bit on one side and lifts grace- fully off the face on the other gives the chapeau of black liséré at the right a vast dignity and extreme becoming- ness, And to trim it Bendel has wisely chosen ostrich-plumes, striped with delicate peach color and _ black. Scatetows arene, rere SAN ER AI — a en eS Wie AS hd metas WIGo™ sl ie a. Lanvin is fond of turning a skirt hem under at the bottom and adding anklets or pantelettes oj embroid- ery. She makes this frock of black satin and uses turquoise and pearls to trim it, as well as the turban. Over an entire frock of rose tricolette Jenny traces a design in bluc, gold and silver threads that gives the ef- fect of a landscape and adds much of the Chinese touch to the frock. Gay little tassels swing from the sleeves and loose back panel, and the narrowest of girdles ties in back. Reboux faces the rose mull hat at the center right with deep blue straw to match Chanel’s costume of blue crépe de Chine. Both the slender frock and the long loose wrap are embroi- dered with indigo and taupe wool upon the soft crépe background, and the frock is quite loosely girdled. At the extreme right Jenny gives the trock the correct fulness at the hips with lengths of black satin which run down the seams of her red trico- tine gown. To trim it there are in- numerable bone buttons, and to top it a Talbot hat of brown liséré, whose wings are patent-leather bound. ~~ ‘ NN % SQ ~~ ~ SSSQSS SSSs- EX NSSSS

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BY THE af jack * yo coresé®- LAST BOAT FROM FRANCE CAME THESE SKETCHES WHICH Wrap to accompany "Tam-Tam" grass’ green wool poplin and monkey fur, embroidered with black beads and spangles. 4 with rose SY ostrich: fete oiler of One o° the newest with red beads. poplin, striped with gray. V edged MOLYNEUX suits in blue wool Beige crepe de Chine in wonderful quality. Necklace of pearls and broad hat of marron crin. 100 Brown tare ena eta sh 11 buttons on corde pustle in back 2. - / / Rose wool tissue, draped a bit across the front, white outline embroidery on corsage. inc olny ANY DSL TRE Se Ye DO APE” he SNR Amen Nate RSC RENE SiO Scat

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SHOW EVERY SILHOUETTE LAUNCHED AT THE PARIS OPENINGS -\ =e —— Bai f , % ik te a. ‘ + a a MARTIAL AND ARMAND 4 end Sh iped with gol in. Owi — Seeet¥ ora nips with fluted sus) plata rs piasghttur arrangem e & ‘ e Typical panier frock. “Tam-Tam" corsage, green crepe Georgette ist-line, Sbric ang ae man's edged with monkey fur. Skirt black ong satin embroidered in green, yellow and blue. 4 ——= ; ’ 4 - White taffeta frock, wide upstanding Newest 6 ; ports jacket of white kid collar of vivid blue tulle. trimmed with bands of gray suede. Baron i hat to match. Tailored frock of black serge.

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A fisherman, who proved lo be the Gove 1 h , who { if i Gi ernor, was the only human being in sight. HEY breathed deep of the tonic air of the North as they left the sleeper. Hud- dieston was a forlorn village with one street that displayed a single line of build- ings against a background of sawmill and a mountain of sawdust. An unpainted structure bearing the inscription “Grand Hotel, Fishermen’s Resort”, presented a picture of com- plete desolation to the travelers. The further arm of the broad bay was a strip of green in the distance. A fisherman, posed in monumental majesty on a weather-beaten pile of lumber on the wharf, was the only human being in sight on the water side of town. Just as the train pulled out he jerked up his pole, flinging a perch high in air and catching it with a yell of delight. Archie sighed with relief as the fisherman, now standing erect to unhook the perch, turned toward them. It was the Governor, rakishly trigged out in knick- erbockers, with a cap smartly tilted over one ear and a broad scarf snapping about his face in the lively wind. “This looks like the end of the world,” Congdon remarked dejectedly, as they walked toward the hotel. “I was a fool to come here and drag you along.” “Don’t worry about me,” said Archie cheer- fully. “We'll make a lark of it. Your daughter’s probably around here somewhere. We'll lay low and see what turns up.” A man emerged from the hotel and crossed the street. Archie identified him as Red Leary, to whom the Governor had delivered the stolen money at Walker’s farm in Vermont. Leary gave no sign of ever having seen Archie before, but picked up their luggage and led the way to the hotel. Archie’s admiration for the Governor soared to new heights at this manifestation of the thoroughness of his preparations. Something had been said at Walker’s about Leary’s retirement to northern Michigan, but at that time Huddleston 102 BLACKSHEEP! For Synopsis had not, he was sure, figured in the Governor’s plans. Leary walked round the counter and turned the register for their signatures. “We jes’ opened the house last week; she’s been shet up quite a spell, but they’re goin’ t’ open the mill ag'in. Just now there ain’t a soul in town. Those houses and the store are board- ed up tight. The railroad agent stays here to run the water-tank and sleeps in the station. Yep; one other gent’s registered.” He placed his finger on “Reginald Heber Saulsbury” in the Gover- nor’s flowing autograph. “All the way from New York. I guess you'll find him all right. Blew in a couple of days ago; says he come out here seekin’ peace for his soul; them’s his very words.” “I judge there’s a large surplus of that article hereabouts,” re- marked Congdon. “By the way, you haven’t seen anything of a young girl about here, have you— a child of eleven?” “Not one of ‘em, but a whole passel,” replied Leary, lifting his head after scrawling the numbers of their rooms against their names. “They’s a camp o’ city girls across the bay. The day I got here a whole trainload of ‘em was hauled up from Chicago. Y’ never saw such a lively bunch. And yestid- dy I was over that way, lookin’ up fishin’ places to recommend to our guests, and saw the whole outfit swimmin’. A cute lot o’ young- sters. Most likely th’ camp'll bring considerable business to the hotel; folks comin’ up to visit their kids.” “Well, I suppose that’s the trick,” said Congdon, as Leary started up-stairs with their bags. “Edith has been put in a camp; her mother’s work, of course. Not a bad idea. All I want to be sure of is that the child’s in good hands. This is a beastly hole, but I guess we can make out for a day or two, and [ll see if I can get a glimpse of Edith.” “Oh, we'll have to study the situation a little!” Archie answered. “I don’t question your daugh- ter’s all right. We can make out here for a few days anyhow.” The house had been renovated, and their rooms were better than the grim exterior promised. “There'll be dinner at twelve,” said Leary, “and if you want to try your hand at trollin’ for BLACKSHEEP! By MEREDITH NICHOLSON Iliustrated by Everett Shinn See Page 172 pickerel I'll fix you up later in the afternoon. Mr. Saulsbury’s been snatching up perch all morn- in’. I’m tired out jes’ from settin’ on the porch and watchin’ ’im.” Mrs. Leary, in spite of the fact disclosed by the Governor at Walker’s—that she had conduct- ed a “fence” in Chicago and was prone to view precious stones with a covetouseye—bore all the marks of respectability. She entered brisk- ly, her motherly face heated from the range, and placed a large platter of fried chicken on the table. “Jes’ help yerselves, gents. We've hardly got goin’ yet, but I got a waitress on the way from Chicago, and she'll spare me some steps.” “Ah!” ejaculated the Governor, pausing dramatically and eyeing the newly-arrived guests as though their presence filled him with aston- ishment. He bowed to each and remarked upon the fineness of the day. “I guess you folks’ll get acquainted without bein’ introduced,” observed Mrs. Leary. “It’s always nicer in a summer resort when folks get together sociable-like. You wanted radishes, Mr. Saulsbury, and you'll notice I got ’em fer you.” “Madame, said the Governor in his most elaborate manner, “I knew you at once for a woman of kind heart! I am not in the least sur- prised to find myself in the presence of the noblest radishes I have ever seen.” In a moment more he had introduced himself to Archie and Congdon. He had spent a jolly morning, he announced. Not in years had he en- joyed himself so hugely. He delivered a lecture on fish only to celebrate in sonorous periods the humble perch, scorned by epicures. It was the most delectable of all the finny genus, superior even to the pampano. Congdon, first irritated by the Governor’s volubility, was soon betrayed into laughing at some quip, and, by the time they moved to the narrow veranda to smoke, he was both puzzled and amused. Archie had been with the Governor so constantly, and was so familiar with his tangential mental processes, that he was glad of an opportunity to watch the effect of his patter upon a man of his own world. It was clear that the Governor was at pains to make himself agreeable to Congdon. He touched upon public affairs, sensibly and convincingly, then turned handsprings through the arts and sciences. “RATHER odd, my being here,” he rippled on; “and I need hardly say that it’s a pleasure to meet on this bleak shore two gentlemen of your calibre. I complained to a friend in Chi- cago that I was enormously fed up with cities and the general human pressure and wanted to go to the most God-forsaken spot in America. And he answered without a moment’s hesitation that Huddleston, Michigan, would satisfy my loftiest ideal of God-forsakedness. He had been here straightening up some land titles, camping out for a week with a surveyor and eating out of a skillet. He’s one of these fussy fellows who sends an order of chops back to a club kitchen a dozen times before he’s satisfied—you know the type. He’s probably laughing himself to death right Ruth declared that she was able to walk, and Archie gathered Isabel up in hés ec. ee Areva meatal

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{DEEPER vin entre hE. elite rie cP WE ince Calne cao now thinking how miserable I am. But I re- fuse to be bored; never in my life have I been bored! Even the sawdust and the stumps are magnificent in their desolation. I feel it in my bones that something extraordinary is going to happen. Something’s got to happen, or the lake will rise in one vast wave and destroy Huddle- ston. I hope you gentlemen share my feeling that our meeting has been ordered by the gods and that we shall stand or fall together.” “If we’ve got to put the responsibility some- where, the gods may have it,” laughed Congdon. “I’m a cripple, as you see, but as Comly and I haven’t a thing. to do we'll give you a day or two to kick up some excitement. It may enter- tain you to know that my coming here was due to an anonymous telegram.” “Excellent! I’m delighted to know that there’s some of the old romantic spirit left in the world! It pleases me clear through to meet a man who will act on an anonymous telegram and not ring up the police to ask their stupid consent.” With a wave of the hand he left them, declar- ing it to be his purpose to spend the afternoon in the woods. “What do you make of that chap?” Congdon asked as the Governor strolled away, swinging a stick, and disappeared at the end of the street. “He talks like an encyclopedia,” Archie replied. “IT hope he won’t become a nuisance!” “A cheerful soul, I should call him. He’s like- ly to make the place more tolerable.” arms and bore her to the hospital tent, When Congdon pleaded weariness, Archie put him to bed and then sauntered away, following a dirt road that wound through the timber. In a little while he came upon the Governor with his back to a tree, reading Horace. “You arrived most opportunely!” he said, without lifting his eyes from the book. “I was pining for some one to read this ode to.” He not only read but expounded it, dwelling upon felicities that had eluded him before. With countless questions crying for answer, Archie was obliged to feign interest in the poem until the Governor thrust the book into his pocket with a sigh and led the way to the beach. “Well, you landed him here!” he remarked, seating himself on a log and producing his pipe. “Or did he bring you? One would think you were old chums to see you together. Not a bad fellow, I should say.” “He’s really a good sort,” said Archie, “but I'll tell you the whole story.” The Governor listened placidly, interrupting only when Archie repeated what Congdon had said of Isabel. “A wonderful girl!” he ejaculated. “Makes it her business to tease the world along. Laughing in her sleeve all the time. I must say it’s odd that both you and Congdon should be the victims of her wiles. My burdens are heavier than I knew, for I’ve got to get you both out of your scrapes.” “You don’t seem to appreciate how horrible I felt when I found myself liking that fellow. To where a murse awaited them say I was embarrassed doesn’t express it! And I nearly gave myself away, when he told me he’d killed a man, your friend Hoky, you know. I nearly confessed all I knew of that business, just to ease the poor chap’s mind.” “But you didn’t, Archie! You couldn’t have done anything so foolish. My tutoring hasn’t been wholly wasted on you, after all. You man- aged the trip admirably; I haven’t a point to criticize; but now to get down to brass tacks. What you learned of old Eliphalet Congdon’s meddlesomeness jibes exactly with what I know of his character. Let me show you something, Archie.” He walked out upon the gravelly shore and pointed through the wide-flung arms of the bay. “Do you see a little blur of smoke out yonder in the open lake? That’s the Arthur B. Grover proceeding under her own steam, with all the dignity of a trans-Atlantic liner. I took up my option and bought the bloomin’ thing by tele- graph. It’s got a crew of the smartest crooks in all America. Men of genius in the field of felony, and a few of them talented in other lines. One chap, a navigator, able to sail a ship round the Horn, and yet he prefers to play the shell game at rural fairs. And Perky’s on board with old Eli- phalet Congdon! Yes, sir, the old boy is right there as safe as King Arthur, when the dark barge bore him away to the sound of wailing. Perky sent me a wire from Mackinac this morning, saying that all is well on our frigate, They have orders to hang around out there till I signal them to come in. But, my dear Archie, ai EK refilled his pipe and when he had it going waved his arm toward Heart o’ Dreams. “There’s a queer business going on over there. Ruth told me at Rochester that when I brought Edith up here I'd better leave the train at Calder- ville, the first station south of Huddleston, and drive into the camp through the woods. Well, the road over there isn’t much to brag of, but I made it all right. Ruth and Isabel were delighted with our success. That’s all easy. But those girls are in trouble.” “Well, hurry on!” said Archie, sitting up straight. “Oh, that cousin of Isabel’s is not a myth at all, as I rather thought he might be; and that money may be buried over there somewhere, you know. And the cousin’s laying himself out to annoy the camp in every way possible, even go- ing the length of trying to starve ’em out. There’s a stack of supplies at the Huddleston station that they can’t move.” “You forget,” cried Archie excitedly, “that there are laws even in the wilderness! If that fellow’s looking for trouble all we’ve got to do is to telephone for the sheriff and land him in jail. The jails up in this neck of woods are probably highly uncomfortable.” “T grant all that,” said the Governor, sprawling at ease. “But the notoriety of the thing would kill the camp. Once it got into the newspaper, every father and mother who has a child out yonder would go right up in the air. It would make a great first-page story—buried treasure—a war for hidden gold centered about a girls’ camp. That whole yarn about the haughty Southerner planting his money in safe territory till he saw which way the cat jumped is fruity stuff for our special correspondent on the spot. No, Archie; ladies of quality like our Ruth and Isabel must be protected from vulgar publicity, and we don’t want any sheriffs or newspaper re- porters nosing around. It’s up to you and me to smooth out their troubles without resorting to bothersome legal apparatus. The camp has no telephone; the road round on the outer peninsula is all but inaccessible. They have a launch they’re in the habit of using to carry stuff across from Huddleston, but Mr. Richard Carey blocks the way! I got all this when I was delivering Edith over there at the back door. And Carey is camped at the land entrance, with an army of lumberjacks to help him maintain a blockade. On my way out I ran the gauntlet, and if you think Carey is only fooling about this buried treasure business, gaze on this!” He took off his cap and pointed to a hole through the baggy top. “A bullet, Archie, fired from ambush with murderous intent!” “But she said her cousin was in love with her! It can’t be possible that he’s resorting to violence to drive her off land ‘that belongs to her, with the idea that she’ll meet him at the altar after- wards.” “There’s no loving touch in that bullet-hole! The Heart o’ Dreams Camp is in danger, as long as that lunatic runs loose. They can’t communi- cate with Huddleston or Calderville in their launch, because Carey patrols the shore. It’s a siege, Archie, and they’re going to be hard put for provisions in an (Continued on page 112) 103

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L. Hill Studio MARY NASH Ajter a long absence from New York, Mary Nash is back again, this time as leading woman in a Spanish play which contains only two other characters—both men. Holbrook Blinn is one and Curtis Cooksey the other, and the name of the play is “Man and Woman’. ° GERALDINE FARRAR By her extraordinarily fine interpretation of the titie réle, Miss Farrar has raised Leoncavallo’s opera, “Zaza’’, from failure to suc- cess. The exactions of the role are such that Farrar-less impresarios abroad have attempted the opera in vain. The Metropolitan’s achievement in establishing “Zaza” is entirely a Farrar triumph.

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Johnston LOUISE GROODY who made an instant success in “Fiddlers Three” and as a result was sentenced to a long road tour with it, has re- turned to Broadway in one of the most amusing musical productions of the season. Ii is called “The Night Boat’ and is the joint effort of Anne Caldwell and Jerome Kern, Together with Miss Groody, who does some delightful dancing, are Jack Hazzard, Ada Lewis, Lillian Kemble Cooper and Ernest Torrence than whom no night boat ever boasted a funnier crew oth portraits by Alfred Cheney BILLIE DOVE One of the bevy of celebrated persons who have helped to endow Mr. Ziegfeld with the reputation for having an eye, Miss Dove graduated, or moved up, as it were, from the Ziegfeld Follies, to the Midnight Frolic on the New Amsterdam roof, where the audience can talk without fear of interruption by people who really want to hear the performance. There are now twa productions on the roof, one, called “Girls of 1920”, Starting at nine o'clock and the usual midnight show, 105 elle,

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The summer girl may be certain of her charm in a modish frock of dotted Swiss (A). In rose, lav- Copenhagen, with insertions ef organ- die and tiny pearl but- tons for trimming, sizes 14 to 18 years, $39.50. ender or This overblouse of natural-colored pongee bespeaks both smartness and serviceability. Embroidered in Jofire blue silk and metal threads, with a blue silk piping finish about the neck and cuffs, it costs $9.75. 106 Y / /Y J / : - Bian ~ a i YOU CAN GET THESE GOOD VALUES THROUGH THE SHOPPING SERVICE Youth and a pretty taste are both exemplified in the organdie frock above (B). the neck, the ruffles over the narrow skirt. flesh, in sizes 14 to 18 years, it may be had for $19.75. A novel plaited trimming edges sleeves and the tunic, which falls in two Orchid, white, Copenhagen, or One’s wish and one’s pocketbook may readily come to terms in a delectable summer frock (C) of sheer voile. In a lovely sunset hue or blue, it is corded in white to form a unique checked pattern, and tiny lace ruffles create the vest and the collar. The sizes are 14 to 18 and the price is $19.75. As practical as it is irre- sistible is a cape copied from an imported model and fashioned of duvetyn velours in the new ty- phoon blue, navy, taupe or beaver for $68. It has the straight coat front with a cape-collar lined in an attractive sojt silk. Silk tricolette blouses are wholly in the picture for spring, and the well-designed, well-made one at the left comes in black, navy or sand, embroidered in bright-colored wools; $16.93. And for the very low price of $6.95 one may possess the dainty white batiste blouse at the right, all hand-made, with hemstitched squares embroidered in dots.

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===> — enka ns jae —, ale. This frock of checked gingham (E) has a sim- plicity which is smart and a wearableness which is ; most desirable. Bound on of many edges with rickrack braid, in black with red or white, white with pink, and tan with Copenhagen, in sizes 14 to 18 and 34 to 40, $12.75. The blouse above at the left is a wonderful find, for it’s all hand-made with double hemstitching and real filet edging and costs only $6.95. The Georgette at the right is as becoming to the matronly woman as to her more slender sister, because of its “postillon” back. In navy, blue or brown, sizes 34 to 46, $20.23. ee It has all the hallmarks of custom tailoring, this simple well- cut tricotine suit (F), with white piqué vest. In navy or black, lined with gray or tan Pussy Willow silk, 34 to 44, $65. The coat-dress has come to be an indispensable feature of the wardrobe. Of navy or black gabardine, the one above (G) is braided on pockets and vestee. Sizes 34 to 44, $29.50. Paris sponsors this navy tricotine tailleur with a bolero jacket topping an accordion-plaited skirt (H). Soft satin fashions the girdle, while the vestee is Copenhagen crépe Georgette. In sizes 14 to 18 years, and 34 to 40, it is $39.50. HE clothes on these two pages are some of the best values to be found in New York City. They have been chosen not only for the quality of their fabrics and good workmanship, but for a style that has the individuality of custom-made things. To purchase them—or anything else that you may want—you have only to write me and enclose a check or money-order payable to Harper’s Bazar. Ww 2" , ry An exact copy of an im- ported frock -is this fine sheer voile (1) with its modish hip treatment and tiny ruffles of dotted net. In sunset, white, navy, pink or Copenhagen, ali sizes to 44, the price is $24.50. One of the prettiest, daintiest, freshest- looking blouses imaginable is this well-tai- lored white dimity model trimmed with the rickrack braid which is so much the mode. At $2.95 no one need be without this prac- tical accessory. Sizes 34 to 46 mav be had. 107

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These gracefully pro portion d rock crystal covered vases with in taglio engraving have sterling silver Chinese Chippendale mounts Gorham Co. The lyre shaped Sheffield can dlesticks are co pie S of an Old English design from Irving & Casson 1. H. Davenport Co. The 10-inch Hep- pe lwhite candlesticks are of engraved sterling silver. Theo. B. Starr Reed & Barton This group includes a new pollery compote with 14-inch candle- sticks and vases in green or ivory. The black and gold framed mirror and carved wood sconces corre- spond in treatment. Polychrome and solid colored candles are used—Ovington Bros. The metal flowersarein naiural colors—Karl Freund. The table- runner is of hand- made filet-—M acBride. LET YOUR DINING-ROOM REFLECT A GRACIOUS HOSPITALITY " LL human history attests that hap- piness for man—the hungry sinner!— since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner!” sang Byron, with a canny appreciation of the past and a pro- phetic eye upon the future. But times have changed since the poet lived and dinner has come to be more than food—a dining-room more than a place in which to eat. To-day, if one wishes to have the perfect family gathering, to enjoy the tri- umphs of a flawless hospitality, one must not only offer delectable food, but have it served amid sur- roundings most agreeable The dining-room must necessarily vary in charac- ter, depending upon its location. In the country house, for example, windows with an attractive outlook and superabundance of light and sunshine lend an advantage in point of cheerfulness that the city could never offer. But in the city the very restfulness of a well-appointed dining-room may prove equally pleasing, and in the dignity of its furnishings and happy coloring make amends for the lack of all that country surroundings offer. In contrast to the living-room, the dining-room has but one purpose and therefore but one point of interest. The decoration and furnishings of this room should, accordingly, center about the table as it will appear when in use. ther than a dining-table, attractively decorated By ANNE DUNCAN and ROBERT McQUINN If you find the furnishing of your dining- room or the selection of suitable table decora- tions difficult, write to Anne Duncan, care of Harper’s Bazar, 119 West 4goth Street, New York, and she will gladly advise you and supply prices. On the receipt of a check or money-order she will then purchase for you any of the articles illustrated on these pages. The dignity of Old English furniture is well expressed in this interior, showing a refectory table with an Italian filet runner and poly- chrome candlesticks, holding blue candles as its decoration. Oak benches stand at each side and tapestry-covered chairs at each end of the table. An oak dresser, with its shelves filled with rare china and a lacquer tray, is placed against the wall. At left is an oak credence. MacBride with flowers and accompanied by the necessary chairs, a sideboard or dresser of the old Dutch or Welsh type, and a serving-table, or possibly a pair of console tables which may be used in the same man- ner no furniture is required here. Any further addition should be solely by way of decoration and enhance the general appearance of the room. In tables, the refectory, with or without the draw top, has become a popular feature of modern dining-room furniture. First introduced as a con- sistent factor of the Jacobean interior, it has gradually been accepted as a generally convenient type, which lends itself to the accommodation of several people and occupies less floor space than that required for the same number seated at a round or square table. The copies of the Old English extension-tables are similar to the refectory in character and are much liked. They are hospitably enlarged by add- ing a semicircular console to the ends of an oblong table, which in turn may be removed and placed against the wall when the table is not in use. Still another type is the gate-leg, which is made either with a folding or an extension-top. Walnut with Old English oak and brown-finished mahogany have taken precedence of red mahogany RO AL oe eS Piaei

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RRs Ae ee For the informal dining-room the charm of this William Leavens & Company's painted furniture in bright green with blue stripings is undeniable. The decorative motifs are copied from the cretonne design, appliquéd on the taffeta window valance. The electric coffee-urn, chafing-dish and egg-boiler are unfailing conveniences. The window-shades of cream colored lace are made on rollers and trimmed with cotton fringe and a washable tassel. B. Altman & Co. for formal dining-room furnishings, while painted furniture is strongly favored for simple interiors with surroundings less impressive. This last is particularly desirable for the country house, the breakfast-room in town, or for the apartment dining-room that has restricted light, for it lends a cheerful atmosphere wherever it is placed. In soft greens, gray or yellow, with contrasting strip- ings and decorated with painted motifs copied from the pattern of the chintz draperies, it is most ef- fective. For the treatment of the dining-room window, where dark wood paneling or woodwork calls for a fabric correspondingly dignified, overdraperies of Velmo or mohair velvets may-be used consistently. These may be had in patterns suggesting the weave and colorings of tapestry, in floral designs similar to the French cretonnes, or in self-toned or con- trasting stripes. With them sash curtains of half- inch square mesh net, deep cream in tone and made to hang sill length, are especially suitable. S TAC Oe fn gr ann tt eS ete Again, sash curtains of casement lace—a new weave of curtain lace, in which Italian Renais- sance patterns prevail, and which has the color of casement cloth but the transparency of lace— may be used effectively. These curtains may be plain or trim- med with a self-toned fringe at the bottom. For the dining-room furnished with painted furniture, or for the sun-room, nothing could be daintier or form a more attractive window treatment than window- shades of cream-colored curtain lace. These shades are made on rollers, (Continued on page 150) While including the essen - tials for modern use, the reproduction of the Old Eng - lish service loses none of its old-time charm. Square silver and white striped candles are used here. Theo. B. Starr—Reed & Barton. Typically Dutch Colonial is this mahogany furni- ture, with painted motifs, which includes an oval gate-leg table, a sideboard, drop-leaf serving-table and rush bottomed chairs—Paine Furniture Co., Boston. The Monteith bowl and wine coolers are Old English reproductions—Gorham Co. Win- dow draperies are of soft blue V elmo with contrast ing pattern—L. C. Chase. The sash curtains are cf heavy square mesh net—Quaker Lace Co. PR srig Gi\\\ eye ip yy 109

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ox, ayers . , ae} PLAYTIME CLOTHES FOR THE OF STURDY FABRICS LITTLE FOLK Models from De Pinna Mbove is a frock in which to greet one’s va- cation, made by De Pinna of heliotrope Jap- anese crépe and loosely belted. Motifs of embroidery with touches of blue trim it. Along with out-of-door playthings comes a crisp little spring frock like the one at the left. It is made of lilac handkerchief linen, bordered with white and embroidered in colors. And if one is not older than five or younger than two and an all-important half, there is a suit at De Pinna’s that will exactly please. It has been made of yellow chambray and given a vest and collar of white linen, hand-embroid- ered with white silks quite after the manner of grown-ups. At the left there is an adorable little frock of imported gingham in soft green, with a tucked vestee and collar of sheer white batiste. About the waist is a narrow old gold ribbon to match the embroidery, and one may wear this frock any time between the years of ten cnd sixteen! At the very top of the page a wash-rag rabbit and a wash- vag dolly, clad in sturdy over-alls and equipped with gar- den seeds and tools, proclaim that they may be had at Bessie Fry’s Gift Shop. And at the right De Pinna shows a smart polo coat and tam for sports wear in early spring. If you are in between chubby three and manly six, you will appreciate a correctly tailored suit of brown linen, with a white waistcoat and collar and turned back revers.

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rr DRESS SAT “O. K. from beginning to end A sound and dependable friend So forceful and able I'm sure every table Will welcome the vigor you lend!” We use only | Government inspected ox joints Every ingredient of Campbell’s nourishing Ox Tail Soup is choice in grade and quality, scrupulously inspected, prepared with utmost nicety and care. The marrowy joints are of the medium size, which yields the best meat and richest broth. Tender diced carrots and turnips, a delicious tomato puree, celery, parsley, plenty of strength-giving barley, a hint of leek and onion and a touch of fine flavoring make this favorite soup as tempting as tt is nutritious. | The safe health rule is “eat good soup every day. 21 kinds 15c a can JOUP YOsEPH GAMPBELL conrare CAMDEN,N.J..U-SA: - ivi Nt

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Mc Cutcheon’s Sweaters and Scarfs A touch of bright color, a soft harmonizing comple- ment to the spring or summer costume—always an in- dividual modish note can be introduced thru the popu- lar sweater in its amazing variety of styles and shades. Chiffon Alpaca, Tuxedo model, as illustrated in Black, White, Navy, Henna, Rose, Copen, Purple, Jade, Lavender, Tan and Corn $19.50 Chiffon Alpaca, slip-on model, V neck or with collar, in Navy, Henna, Copen, — Lavender, Tan, Corn, Rose, Black or White . . $15.75 Shetland Weave, Tuxedo model, in Black, White, Navy, Camel, Copen, Rose, Wisteria, Purple, Black with White, Brown Heather $15.75 Shetland Weave, Mohair Yarn, slip-on model, V neck, Sash and pockets, in Black, White, Silver, Navy, Copen, Reindeer, Camel, Lavender, Turquoise, Brown and Green Heather ........ $12.50 Camel’s Hair with brushed Tuxedo roll, natural coloronly ... . $27.50 Pure Silk slipron model with V_ neck, short sleeves with fringe and sash, fancy weave, in Black, White, Navy, Dark Brown, Orchid, Pink and Beige, $50.00 Pure Silk slipeon with square neck in Navy, Beige, Raison, Pink, Brown, Black and white $60.00 Pure Silk, Tuxedo model, fancy weave, finished with smart plaid effect on solid grounds in Navy, Beige, Dark Brown, Black with White, and White with ae ~ sw « oe Practical ia Camel’s Hair Scarf, medium size $5.95 Strined Scarf of Camel and Brown, medium size $7.50 Large size $16.50 White Mohair Scarf, medium size, $6.75. Large ° ee a er ee a a James McCutcheon D\ Fifth Avenue * 5) New York oy 34th and 33d Streets Reg. Trade Ma rk 112 & Co. BLACKSHEEP! Meredith BLACKSHEEP! Nicholson’s Novel (Continued from page 103) other day or two.” “Then it’s our duty to relieve the be- leaguered garrison?” “Nothing less than that! When I took Edith over to Heart o’ Dreams, Isabel a Ruth wouldn’t let me stay long- enough to plan anything. They were pretty anxious of course, with Carey trying to smoke them out; and they were afraid Putney Congdon would try to take Edith away from them. But from what you say, it’s only Eliphalet who's made the trouble, and we don’t need to fear anything from Putney. If it comes to a showdown, I rather think he'll play with us. You're sure he doesn’t suspect that Isabel’s the head of Heart o’ Dreams?” “He hasn’t the ghost of an idea of it. I tell you his spirit’s broken anyhow. With Hoky’s murder on his mind and the general muddle of his family’s affairs, he doesn’t care much which way the wind blows.” “That man needs occupation, and we may find some way of using him. He looks as though he had red blood in him— a fighter if he was thoroughly aroused. If he knew the trick I’ve played on his father, I guess that would tickle him considerably. The idea of old Eliphalet with his millions, cruising the lakes with a band of the most daring outlaws in America is funny, Archie; real comedy, I should call it. He's a pris- oner on the Arthur B, Grover, only he, doesn't know it. I mobilized that outfit, thinking we might need some help up here and incidentally to keep Eliphalet where I could put my hands on him; but the whole thing’s complicated, Archie. It’s far more of a muss that I counted on.” He found a smooth patch of sand and with a stick drew a number of diagrams, carefully effacing them after they had erved his purpose. “Humph! This is no time for weaken- ing! Over there, Archie,’—he pointed to- ward Heart o’ Dreams—*are the two finest women in the world. We're going to stand by them no matter whose head gets cracked,” He spoke lightly, but his brow clouded. It was evident that something of unhappy augury had been revealed in his last appeal to the stars. “T want to be alone for a while,” he said brusquely. “I'll turn up at supper time.” Ar the supper-table a new direction was given to Archie’s thoughts, for a time at least. Fortunately his nerves had grown accustomed to shocks, and he was only dazed now by the intrusion of a new figure on the scene. The Governor and Congdon were already at the table when he reached the dining-room. Mrs. Leary had referred to an assistant she was expecting on the afternoon train, and as Archie appeared at the threshold a neatly attired waitress walked sedately before him to his place. Sally Walker had faded in a long per- spective of crowding memories. He never expected to see Sally again, but if the girl who stood by his chair was not Sally it was her twin. He sank into his seat, watching her out of the corner of his eye as she passed through the swing-door with a flut- ter of her snowy apron. He replied feebly to the Governor’s bantering salutation and nervously played with his fork. The Gov- ernor was soaring, and Archie’s bewilder- ment was evidently affording him secret delight. Sally was not merely a pastmistress of dissimulation and deceit; she was the un- disputed reigning queen in that realm. She served the table with a strictly professional air, in no way betraying the fact that two of the guests had lately enjoyed the hospi- tality of her father’s house or that she had beguiled one of them by the grossest mis- representations to assist her to elope. ‘There’s custard and apple,” she recited finally, “or you may have wheat-cakes with syrup,” and as Archie covertly met her eyes she winked, a wink not sly or vulgar, but a wink expressive of mischief on a holiday and quite content with itself. He was enormously curious to know how she had reached Huddleston and what her adventures had been on the way—mat- ters with which, no doubt, the suave Gov- ernor was perfectly familiar, but which he showed no disposition to disclose. Tor a gentleman, the guest of an inn, to lurk around the kitchen door waiting for a chance to address a waitress is wholly un- dignified, but Archie was doing this very thing the moment he could escape from the Governor and Congdon. Mrs. Leary was up- stairs preparing additional rooms against the chance of further arrivals, and Sally was alone in the kitchen. “Well, I've got the same old job,” she remarked carelessly, as Archie paused un- certainly on the threshold. ‘You're a pay guest here and I can’t let you swing a towel; so if you want to talk, take a chair on the side lines.” Sally was as handsome as ever; he had not been mistaken in thinking her a very handsome and attractive girl of individy- ality and charm. It seemed zons ago that he had kissed her; in fact it was almost un- believable that he had ever kissed so radi- ant a being. She received him as an old friend, without a trace of embarrassment. Her ease put him at serious disadvantage, He was at a loss to know how to impress upon her the heinousness of the deceit she had practiced upon him. ALLY,” he began, in a tone that he meant to be sternly paternal, “I hope you realize that you treated me very shab- bily up there at your father’s. You not only acted very wrongly, but you threw away your life, and the bright promise of your future. I was very stupid to fall into your trap. If things go wrong with you, I shall blame myself. And I don’t see any chance for happiness for you, unless you change your ways.” She deliberately concluded the drying of a plate, put it down, and threw the towel aside. “Look here,’ she began, folding her arms and walking slowly toward him; “I’m not the worst girl in the world, and I’m far from being the best. I lied to you, and it was a nasty trick; but I had to get away from that farm; I simply couldn’t stand it any longer. And I'd worried a lot about being the daughter of a crook; I honestly had. I always knew it would come out in me some way, and I thought the sooner the better. I just had to do some rotten thing to satisfy myself how it feels. You can understand that, can’t you?” think I can, Sally, “But— “There's no butting about it! I just had to try it once, and you came along just when I needed you. Yes, sir; I took ad- vantage of you, because I saw you were a gentleman and sympathetic and full of that chivalry stuff; and I played on your feel- ings and made you the little goat. It wasn't nice of me.’ “It certainly approached the unpardon- able, Sally. And you not only ruined your own life, but nearly caused me to lose my best friend. I'm still pretty sore about that. But what hurt me most was that you sacrificed your opportunity to be somebody in the world, to be a noble, useful woman. You linked yourself for life to a slinking, scoundrelly thief!” Sally laughed mockingly. Then, her hands on her hips, she regarded him pityingly. “You poor goose, you sure didn’t get my number right! If you thought I was going to be tied up for the rest of my days with a miserable little wretch like Pete Barney, you certainly had me wrong. I just had to turn a few handsprings, and you needn't tell me how disgusted you are when I say that all I wanted was to know how it feels to lie and steal.” he stammered. ES, you stole some money from your father; that was very wrong, Sally.” “Say, you make me tired! What I bor- rowed from father I'll pay back. The low- down thing I did was to take that string of diamonds away from Barney. He slipped ’em to me that night, as we were on the way to the preacher’s to get married. Mar- ried! Do you think I really wanted to marry that man! Do you think I am mar- ried to him now? Why, I gave him the slip at the first station after I kissed you good-bye, and I haven’t seen him since. And I never intend to see him again! ducked round till I got to a place on the underground railroad I knew about from father; and they took good care of me. Then I slid to Petoskey, where the Learys were starting up their refreshment joint and was just learning how to make soft drinks look wicked when the Governor jerked a wire to Red and that grand old girl, his wife, to come here and open up this moldy old joint. My folks know where I am now, and as soon as they coax me a little I'll go home and be a nice little girl for the rest of my life.” “But the diamonds—” “Don’t be so tragic, or I'll burst out crying! I’ve got the sparklers hidden sate; and I’m going to get the Governor to help make a deal to give em back to the owner, if he won’t prosecute Barney. I wouldn't want a man, even if he’s only my husband on paper, to go over the road. I’m satis- fied with my kick-up, and you needn't be afraid I’ll break any more of the Com- mandments.” “Where’s Barney now?” demanded Ar- chie suspiciously. “In jail in Buffalo, if you must know! They pinched him on an old case; so you (Continued on page 114) ay aa ry Spe NR TEEN we

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I guess that’s about all; so you can trot back to the front of the house.” With a finality that closed discussion, she fell energetically upon the dishes, and he left her to join the Governor and Cong- don. His enlightenment as to the com- plexity of human nature was proceeding. Sally was wonderful, astonishing, baffling. He did not question that this time she had told him the truth. He was touched by her confession that her escapade was merely an experiment to test her blood for inherited evil, There was an enormous pathos in this. Sally needed help and guidance. He would discuss the matter with the Gov- ernor the moment they had disposed of their more urgent affairs. At nine, when Congdon announced his in- tention of going to bed, Archie as- sisted him as usual. “This air’s setting me up,” said Congdon, as Archie inspected the crippled shoulder. “The doctor told me to begin exercising that arm as soon as the soreness went out. How does the wound look?” “Like a healed vaccination-mark in the wrong place; that’s all. You certainly had a close call, old man. Only a few inches lower, and it would have pierced your heart.” In their hours together, Archie had never been able to free his mind of the disagree- able fact that he had so nearly killed Cong- don; and he was beset now by the thought that sooner or later he must confess his culpability in the Bailey Harbor shooting. Congdon was accepting him at face value, and the thing wasn’t square. Every time he touched the injured shoulder he felt his guilt heavy upon him. “I’ve got to tell Congdon I shot him and that he was in no way responsible for Hoky’s death,” he announced determinedly to the Governor, whom he found pacing the street in front of the hotel. “Of course you'll tell him, but not yet. I’m mistaken in the man, if he acts ugly about it. The proper way to tell a man you've tried to kill him and that he’s car- rying the scar of your bullet is to mention it incidentally, when you're walking home from church with him, or allowing him to sign the check for your lunch. But, seri- ously, it was merely a deplorable error on both sides, and I believe he’ll see it that way. But until we get some other things cleared up, we'll let him think he killed Hoky to keep him humble. And now that he’s off the invalid list, we'll let him share some of the little adventures that lie be- fore us. ‘To-night we've got a matter on hand that’s better done by ourselves. If you think he’s safe for a few hours, we'll go ahead.” He stopped on the way to the wood-bor- dered shore and produced from a fence-cor- ner an electric lamp and two revolvers. “Stick one of these in your pocket. We're not going to add to our crimes, if we can help it, but I owe somebody a shot for that nip in my cap.” A stiff wind from the open lake was whipping up battalions of whitecaps that danced eerily in the starlight. At a point, half a mile from the village, the Governor flashed his lamp along a bank that shelved the beach and found a canoe and a row- boat hidden in a thicket. “We're all fixed. Good old Leary planted these things for us while we were at sup- per. He gave the whistle Archie remembered from his first encounter with the Governor, and in a moment Leary stood beside them. They had carried the boats to the water’s edge, when the Governor suddenly stood erect. The monotonous tum tum of a gaso- line engine was borne to them out of the darkness. “He has a boat of some power,” the Governor remarked, ‘“‘and, as he carries no lights, we've got to take the chance of sneaking round him or getting run down. We must impress it on Ruth and Isabel that they’re not to attempt to run the blockade. Then we've got to get rid of Carey; put him clean out of business. You and Red take the row-boat and trail me; I'll scout If one of us get’s smashed, the other will pick up the cas- ualties.” The canoe shot forward, the Governor driving the paddle with a practiced hand. The row-boat followed, Leary at the oars and Archie serving him as pilot. As they Nicholson’s Novel 112) moved steadily toward the middle of the bay, they marked more and more clearly the passage of the launch as it patrolled the farther shore. Leary pulled a strong stroke, and Archie was obliged to check him from time to time to avoid collision with the Governor’s craft. At intervals passing clouds dimmed the starglow, and in one of these periods a dull bump ahead gave Archie a fright. “Steady! Ill be all right in a moment!” the Governor called reassuringly. He had run into a log that lay across his path, and the canoe had attempted to jump it. When he reported himself free they went ahead, alert for further manifestations from the launch, which for some time had given no hint of its position. THey were two-thirds of the way across the bay, when the Governor gave the sig- nal to stop, and they drew together for a conference. “They must be keeping watch,” said Archie, calling attention to lights on the shore. “If we could land without frighten- ing the girls to death———”’ The Governor whistled through his teeth. Somewhere to the left of them, as they lay fronting the camp, a sharp blow was struck upon metal. It was repeated fitfully for several minutes. “It’s Carey tinkering his engine. He’s been playing possum off there.” The launch was so near they could hear the waves slapping its sides. Archie and Leary gripped the canoe tight, while the Governor listened for any signs pointing to a change in Carey’s position. Suddenly Leary sprang up in the tossing boat. *‘Look ahead!” he exclaimed, leveling his arm at a shadow that darted out of the darkness and passed between them and the launch. The Governor saw it and stifled a cry of dismay. “Two women in a canoe! to run for it!” “They are fools!”’ growled Leary, settling himself to the oars and swinging the boat round. The Governor had already turned the canoe and was furiously plying his paddle. A lantern shot its beams from the phantom craft, but the light vanished immediately. “There goes his engine!” the Governor called, as he took the lead. ‘He spotted that light and will try to run them down.” It was close upon midnight, and there was no help to be had from either shore. A fierce anger surged through Archie’s heart, but passed quickly and he became a reason- ing being. There could have been no safer place to commit murder than the quiet bay at the dead of night. Ultimately the bodies would be washed up; there would be the usual inquiries and a report of accidental drowning. Isabel and Ruth, attempting to elude Carey’s blockade and seek help at Huddleston, were forcing a crisis that might at any minute result in disaster. It was incredible that Carey would at- tempt to run down two women on a dark lake, and his purpose appeared at first to be to circle round them and frighten them back to the camp. Neither the canoe of the ad- venturous women nor the launch was visible from the row-boat, though the engine’s rapid pulsations indicated the line of Carey’s pur- suit. To shout to the daring women that help was at hand would be only to alarm them, and Archie crouched in the bow peer- ing ahead for the silhouette of the Gover- nor, as his canoe rose on the waves. They’re going T= launch executed a wide half-circle, stopped and retraced its course. Leary, refusing to relinquish the oars, swore be- tween strokes, the object of his maledictions being the invisible Carey, whom he con- signed to the bottom of the lake in phrases that struck Archie as singularly felicitous. In spite of their steady advance and the frequent turns and twists of the launch, the canoe and row-boat seemed to approach no nearer to the enemy. Carey was aware that a craft of some kind had put off from the camp and was determined to intercept it; but he was still unconscious of the presence in the bay of the three men from Huddle- ston. The Governor called to Archie to stop following and move in the direction of the town, independently of his own movements, thus broadening the surface they were cov- ering with a view to succoring the canoe. As though with malevolent delight in the fear he was causing, Carey rapidly changed the course of the launch, urging it back- ward and forward with a resulting wild agi- tation of the waters. In one of these evo- lutions, it passed within oar’s-length of the row-boat. i “Keep on swearing!” cried Archie. “He’s not a man; he’s the devil!” (Continued on page 116)

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In creating our extensive S pring Collection, Miss E. M. A. Stein- metz has developed delightful originality, and combines a most becoming simplicity with an air of exclusiveness. tein 2 Blaine 13 and 15 West 57th Street New York BLACKSHEEP! BLACKSHEEP! Meredith Nicholson’s Novel (Continued from page 114) The launch passed again, like a dark bird skimming the water, and Archie kicked off his shoes and threw aside his coat. “Tf that blackguard keeps this up, we may have to swim for it! Give me the oars; I want to warm up! They were changing positions when the launch, executing another of its erratic evo- lutions, again swept by. A _ second later they were startled by a crash, followed by screams and cries for help. Leary whistled chrilly to attract the Governor’s attention and bent to the oars. Carey shut off his power the moment he struck the canoe, whether in sudden alarm at the success of his design or in the hope of picking up the victims of his animosity was a question Archie left for a more tran- quil hour’s speculation. A shout from the Governor announced that he was hurrying toward the scene of the collision. The launch, running full speed, had struck hard, and it was sheer good luck that the camp canoe had not been cut in two and the occupants killed. The drumming of the engine had ceased but a searchlight sweep- ing the water indicated the launch’s posi- tion. The beam fell for a moment upon the Governor, paddling madly; another sweep of the light disclosed two heads bobbing on the waves some distance away from him. EAR left!” cried Leary, seizing an oar. “Slow down! Stop!” Archie backed water and the bow sprung high, as Leary plunged into the bay. ‘he light switched over the scene from the launch fell in turn upon the struggling women, the Governor and Leary swimming toward them, and Archie steadying the row- boat ready to aid in the rescue. The ap- pearance of unknown men evidently fright- ened Carey, for he turned off his light and retreated toward the inner recesses of the bay. The rescuers were now dependent upon sound and the starlight in the urgent busi- ness of marking the position of the young women. A hand grasped Archie's trailing oar, and in a moment, with Leary’s assist- ance, he had gotten one of the women into the boat. The men now redoubled their efforts to find the second victim of the ca- tastrophe, shouting to keep track of one another and to hearten the girl who was somewhere battling for her life. A faint cry, hardly distinguishable above the commotion of the waves, caught Archie’s ear, and he jumped into the water and swam toward it. In making a stroke, his arm fell upon the side of the overturned canoe. A pitiful little whimper startled him; he touched a face; his fingers caught in a woman’s hair. The canoe still re- tained enough buoyancy to support him, and his lusty cries brought the Governor to his side, followed an instant later by Leary laboriously pushing the boat before him. They worked in silence, save for orders jerked out by the Governor. The boat had to be balanced against the lifting of the second figure over the side, and Leary man- aged this, while Archie and the Governor, twice failing, got the second girl aboard with a supreme effort. Leary was running the ray of an electric lamp over the faces of the two young women, when one of them sat up and muttered in a choking, frightened tone, “Oh, Isabel!” WwW Cs. ag she began to laugh hysterically. Thank God, Ruth is safe!” exclaimed the Governor. “But Isabel “They were both taking care of them- selves, when we picked them up,” said Archie, holding to the side of the boat. “We haven’t a case of drowning to deal with.” “We'll make for the camp as fast as pos- sible. I'll take the oars,” said the Gov- ernor. “You and Leary can pick up my canoe.” The Governor sent the boat swiftly toward the camp, with Archie and Leary close behind. Ruth, protesting that she was only chilled by her ducking, vigorously manipulated the arms of her prostrate com- panion. When she hailed the shore, a lan- tern flashed in answer, and the camp doctor and Isabel’s mother met them at the land- ing. They had heard the crash of the col- lision and the reassuring cries that had an- nounced the rescue. “exes all clear; a case of exhaustion or shock,’ announced the doctor crisply, and Archie formed a high opinion of her as a capable person, whom he should always remember gratefully. Ruth declared that she was able to walk, but Isabel became the object of their im- mediate concern. She had lain inert in the boat, muttering incoherently. Archie gath- ered her up in his arms and bore her to the hospital tent, where a nurse awaited them. “You gentlemen must go at once to the bath house on the shore,” ordered the doc- tor with a brisk professional air. “Take one of these lanterns, and strip and rub yourselves dry. Hot coffee will be sent out shortly. As there isn’t a man on the place, we can’t offer you dry clothing, but if you need medical attention let me know.” The tent flap fell. “We're lucky devils,” said the Governor, as they wrung the water from their clothes in the bath-house. “If we hadn’t been just where we were those girls would have drowned. In their skirts they couldn’t have made the shore. Lucky, I say!” “We have some unfinished business,” re- marked Archie. “We're going to take up this little matter with Mr. Carey before I sleep again. “Patience!’’ cried the Governor, now in high spirits though his teeth chattered. “It was his inning; he kept them from reaching Huddleston, but we don’t want to waste our chance of scoring when we go to bat. Patience; and then more patience!” “You don’t mean to say that you're not going to notify the authorities?”’ demanded Archie. “It would give me the greatest satisfaction to send him over the road for attempted murder.” “We could do that beyond question; but I’ve already told you, my dear boy, that we are going to be the sole judge of the law and the evidence in these matters. I mean to end my career as the prince of villainy with a flourish. There shall be no loose ends. My time is short. Before the week is out, I've got to tie all pending mat- ters up in neat little packages adorned with pink ribbons. Moon, stars and all other influences are just right for a successful termination of my seven years of servitude to the powers of darkness, and, if I don’t shake ’em off at the exact moment ordained by the heavens, I’m committed to another seven years of wandering. There you have it in a nutshell. Marriage, home, a life of tranquil respectability with the women we love—that’s ahead of us if we play the cards right. When you speak of calling sheriffs into consultation, you make me slightly ill. Old sinners like Leary and me have no confidence in the law’s benevo- lence; and it may occur to you that in- quiries as to our immediate past might be embarrassing. We shall hold to our course, Archie!” A pot of coffee and a basket of sand- wiches were left at the bath-house door, and they partook with the zest of ship- wrecked mariners. At the end of an hour, reclad in their wet clothes, they huddled at the landing waiting for news from the hospital tent. Mrs. Perry came to report that Isabel and Ruth were asleep, “Isabel has a badly bruised hand—no bones broken, but it was an ugly smash. She will have to carry it in a sling for a few days.” “Her hand,” Archie murmured, so quav- eringly that Mrs. Perry looked at him curi- ously. That one of Isabel’s adorable hands should be injured enraged him. He felt the hurt in his own heart, and he resolved that Carey should pay dearly for an of- fense that transcended all the other crimes that had ever been committed from the be- ginning of time. “WE have taken every precaution to guard against any unhappy conse- quences of their immersion,’ Mrs. Perry continued. ‘There’s some danger of cold, but Dr. Reynolds is a skilful young woman, and, of course, Isabel and Ruth are strong, vigorous girls. They will be laughing at their misadventures by noon to-morrow.” “You're lifting our spirits a lot,” said Archie, and Leary, standing a little behind him, chokingly ejaculated a_ heartfelt, “Thank God!” “IT wish,” said Mrs. Perry, “we might proclaim to the world your gallant con- duct; but for any report of this matter to get abroad would be disastrous, a dire calamity, as you can see. The camp day begins early, and it would be best for you to return to Huddleston and keep silent as to the accident.” “We appreciate all that, and you may count on our discretion,” said the Governor. “Let me say first that as to the danger of starvation, you need have no fear on that score. I wired yesterday for a tug I’m somewhat interested in to pick up supplies at Harbor Springs, and it will put in here sometime during the afternoon.” “You are wonderful!” exclaimed Mrs. Perry. “After you ran past the barricade so successfully and delivered the little Cong- don girl, I’ve been sure Ruth’s confidence in you wasn’t misplaced.” “That was a trifling matter. I wish (Continued on page 118)

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et LL td Exclusive Huer gy WA ii Fashions efor Women. 6 East 52”? Street, NEW YoRrRw. Hi! Tm TATA ae Le wan 118 ‘ BLACKSHEEP! Meredith Nicholson’s BLACKSHEEP! Novel (Continued from page 116) you'd tell me before we leave just how much credence you give this buried treasure story. While we’re about it, we must go to the bottom of that.” The rays of the lantern Archie held dis- closed an incredulous smile on Mrs. Perry’s face. She was a tall, handsome woman, very like Isabel, even in the tones of her voice and in an occasional gesture; and she had Isabel’s fine eyes. “I’ve never thought that more than a fairy-tale,” she said. “I should not want you gentlemen to waste time or run the risk of bodily injury in looking for chests of money that may never have been buried here at all. There was, to be sure, a con- siderable fortune, but my father-in-law, whom I never saw, would have been much likelier to distribute it among banks in the Northern States, or in Canada. Richard Carey evidently believes the story, though from his actions I’m inclined to think him utterly mad. He’s going to desperate lengths to search for the treasure. His conduct is tinged a good deal with resent- ment, because Isabel has repeatedly refused to marry him. He’s a ne’erdowell, a black sheep and a disgrace to his family.” ‘The Governor sighed deeply. “I sometimes wonder that there’s any white wool in the world; there are so many of the skittish little black lambkins scat- tered over the pastures.” “They make uncomfortable neighbors,” Mrs. Perry exclaimed, so heartily that they all laughed. On the calm silent shore with the tents of Heart o’ Dreams Camp slowly emerging from the shadows of the surrounding wood in the first faint light of dawn, Archie won- dered just what Mrs. Perry’s feelings would be if she knew that she had been counten- ancing three rogues, two of whom at least were able to qualify as sheep with fleeces far from spotless, and the third, the solemn, silent Leary, with a trail of crime that reached from ocean to ocean. She walked with them to the landing and waved the lantern in farewell, as they set forth across the slowly brightening waters for Huddleston, HEN the Governor and Archie went down to breakfast at nine o’clock, they learned that Congdon had risen early and, declaring that his arm was fully recov- ered, was fishing from the wharf. The Governor drew from his pocket a telegram which Leary had carried up to him while he was dressing. “A cipher from Perky at Harbor Springs. He’s got the provisions aboard, but reports that he suspects the tug is being watched. It’s possible, of course, that he and old Eliphalet were spotted at Cleveland when they boarded the boat and that the Gov- ernment is keeping an eye on the Arthur B, Grover.’ Archie fidgeted uneasily. “We've got enough trouble on hand right here, without bucking the federal authori- ties. Of course you'll warn him at once not to put in here!” “My reply was sent instantly. I wired him to hold on to Eliphalet, but to drop all the men he didn’t need to handle the tug at the first convenient point and send them singly into the woods beyond Calderville to await instructions. This is a dead port; nothing but driftwood has landed here since the mill shut down three years ago.” “I tell you I don’t like this at all! You can’t run a pirate ship through the Great Lakes without attracting attention. A po- liceman can stand on the shore anywhere and throw a brick on board anything afloat.” “Really, you exaggerate, Archie,” re- plied the Governor gently. “These wide and beautiful waters invite the adventurous mariner, and, if piracy appealed to me at all, I'd rather enjoy levying tribute upon the unprotected cities of the saltless seas.” The demure Sally brought in a fresh pot of coffee, and they waited for her to leave the room. “Only one thing interests me,” declared Archie, ‘‘and that’s the immediate cleaning up of Carey. The Congdons have begun to bore me, if you'll pardon my saying it! The old man and his plugged gold pieces and the will in his umbrella and the family row are none of my business. If you want to give me a thrill of delight, you'll chuck everything connected with the name Cong- don and concentrate on Carey.” “Not so easy, with our friend Putney living here under the same roof. Again I warn you that we must practice patience. Here comes Putney now. They had reached the veranda, where Putney joined them, proudly displaying his string of perch. When Leary had borne his catch to the kitchen, Congdon became serious. “Something’s happened that bothers me a little. A man motored up here a while ago, looked the place over and asked me a lot of questions about the hotel and its guests. You understand, Comly—” He hesitated, glancing questioningly from Archie to the Governor. “You may trust Saulsbury. We have knowledge of some other things that make it necessary for us all to stand together.” “This fellow seemed to have no business here,’ Congdon continued. “He said he was staying at Calderville, and pretended to be looking for a quiet hotel to bring his family to. He thought Huddleston might do. He looked me over in a way I didn’t like. You remember, Comly, LI took you into my confidence about a little difficulty I had before I came here—” “That little affair on the Maine coast? It was a shooting, Saulsbury,”’ Archie ex- plained soberly. “Extraordinary!” exclaimed the Gover- nor. “Mr, Congdon, you may command me in any manner whatever. Now and then it has been my fortune to be able to pull a friend out of trouble. Pray consider me wholly at your service.” HE listened gravely while Congdon de- scribed the shooting at Bailey Harbor. He was convinced that he had shot a burg- lar who died of the wound, and that the injury from which he had just recovered had been inflicted by his victim. “You have troubled about this matter quite unnecessarily,” the Governor declared with a wave of the hand. “I can see that yours is a sensitive nature, with imagina- tion highly developed. You were in your own house, and had every right to be there; and certainly no jury would ever convict you of murder, where you were only de- fending yourself against a scoundrel who did his best to kill you.” Congdon brightened perceptibly at this broad-minded view of the matter and flashed a look of relief at Archie, who was calmly smoking. “It’s most fortunate that we three have met here, gentlemen and murderers all!” the Governor went on airily. ‘‘Comly tells me that he too has been dodging the police. To make you both feel periectly at ease I'll be equally frank and say that for nearly seven years I’ve been mixed up with the leading crooks of this country; not for profit; no, decidedly not; but merely for the fun of the thing.” Archie pretended to share Congdon’s sur- prise at this confession, delivered without the quiver of an eyelash, “I should never have guessed it,” said Congdon. “I had sized you up as a col- lege professor, or perhaps a lecturer on ap- plied ethics,’ he added with a laugh. “We hardly look the black wretches we are!” “Let us hope not! But now to business. We seem to be fellows with a pretty taste for adventure, and I’m going to appeal to your chivalry right now to help me in a very delicate and dangerous matter that calls for prompt attention. Comly and | had a little brush with the enemy last night, and in our further tasks we shall be glad of your help.” He bade Archie teil the story, interrupt- ing occasionally to supply some detail. When Isabel’s name was mentioned as the head of Heart o’ Dreams Camp Congdon sprang to his feet excitedly. “Isabel Perry! Why,” he flung round upon Archie, “that’s the girl I told you about in Chicago, who gave me the bad advice that got me into all my troubles with my wife. And now she’s the cus- todian of my daughter. This is a queer business, gentlemen.” “Highly interesting, I must confess! But you must bear no grudge against Miss Perry; she’s wonderful. She all but lost her life last night. Comly and I have solemnly pledged ourselves to clear up this whole situation, and we invite your fullest cooperation. “Certainly; I enlist right now. With my own child over there at the mercy of that scoundrel, I couldn’t refuse. I assure you that I cherish no resentment against Miss Perry. I was a fool, I suppose, ever to have let her influence me. I was pretty miserable at the time and she is a very attractive girl, and we men, well—” “Man,” said the Governor, “is only a xylophone, on which any woman may exer- cise her musical talents. At times her little hammers evoke the pleasantest harmonies, but when it pleases my lady she can pro- duce the most painful discords. To get back to business, the tug that’s bringing the supplies for the camp is also towing a launch for our use. We'll meet Mr. Carey on land or water, or in the air if he chooses. Now Congdon, if you've no objections to (Continued on page 120)

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RAALTE UNDI ‘4 RVV | Silk Gloves Silk I losiers and Vei ls AR — BLACKSHEEP! Meredith BLACKSHEEP! Nicholson’s Novel (Continued from page 118) taking orders from me, I'll ask you to hang off Heart o’ Dreams in a row-boat while the supplies are unloaded. Our landlord, a trustworthy person in every particular, will go with you. Comly and I will meet the tug and pick up the launch,” UT how about this fellow from Cal- derville that’s nosing round?” Cong- don asked anxiously. “I'll say right here that I have no intention of being hauled back to Maine to be tried for murder.” “Take my word for it, that Comly and I will die rather than give you up. We'll stand or fall together. That chap may not be looking for you at all. He may be on the lookout for me or some pal of mine on the tug—all outlaws, desperadoes!”’ “You're fooling, aren’t you?” demanded Congdon incredulously. “Not in the least! Fugitives from jus- tice, every mother’s son of ’em! Only a few will be aboard when the Arthur B. Grover puts into Heart o’ Dreams, but there are enough crooks in the woods around here to shoot up all Michigan. If that chap from Calderville’s looking for trouble, he’s going to have his hands full.” Congdon went into Archie’s room just before noon and laid an automatic pistol on the dresser. “See that? That’s the gun I shot the thief with at Bailey Harbor. Guess I'll take it with me this afternoon, for I know the infernal thing works!” “It’s always best to tote a gun you've tested,” Archie answered, examining with unfeigned interest the weapon Congdon had discharged into the mirror in the Bailey Harbor house. The gun with which he had shot Congdon was in the drawer of his dresser, and the instant Congdon left he examined it for any marks by which its owner might identify it. He was relieved when the Governor came in and assured him that there was nothing to distinguish the pistol from a thousand of its kind. While they waited for the tug’s appear- ance they hung off Heart o’ Dreams shore, and the Governor and Archie paddled close enough to talk with Ruth at the wharf. “Everything’s all right,’ she reported cheerily. “The doctor-is keeping Isabel in bed to-day, but merely to rest. The bruised hand is doing nicely and will probably heal without a scar. The camp’s running smoothly, and the girls don’t know that they ate our last bread and butter for luncheon,” “You're safe in putting cookies on the evening bill-of-fare,’ said the Governor. “Has Carey made any sign to-day?” “No, except that I went through the woods this morning toward Calderville and found the road piled with logs there at the bridge over the little brook. I peeped through the barricade and saw some men with guns—” “Don’t you dare go near that place again!’ exclaimed the Governor. ‘There’s a good mile between that point and the camp boundaries and you have no business going off your reservation. “How terribly you scold! I was just reconnoitering a little.” The little might mean the end of the world! But it’s worth while to know that you pout when you're scolded.” The hazards of the night had left no mark upon her, and in the khaki Heart o’ Dreams uniform she would have passed for a care-free seventeen-year-old boy. “You seem horribly young,’ the Gov- ernor remarked with mock resentment, as he fended the canoe away from the wharf. “Tt doesn’t seem possible that a venerable relic like me would ever have any chance with so beautiful a young goddess!” “Maybe you haven't!’ “Don’t taunt me, woman, or I'll let you starve to death! Archie,’ he went on, his delight in- her- bright in. his -eyes, . “this might be just the right moment to propose marriage. Your presence is a little em- barrassing, but all the conditions here are unusual. Ruth, I’m so proud of myself for loving you that I feel like proclaim- ing it to all the world.” She picked up a chip and threw it at him with a boy’s free swing. He caught it and placed it tenderly in his pocket. ‘The first gift you ever made me!” he cried rapturously. “I shall ask you to autograph it later. I shall treasure it al- ways! “Who are those gentlemen out yonder?” she asked, spying Congdon and Leary in the row-boat. “The gentleman idling at the oars is Mr. Leary, the honest innkeeper from Huddles- ton; the other is Mr. Putney Congdon!” “Not really! Please don’t tell me we’re to have another kidnapping!” “Certainly not! Leary was a valuable member of our rescue party last night, and he’s wholly friendly to our cause. Mr. Congdon came up with Mr. Comly merely to be near his daughter.” “How did he know she was here? This is very serious!” “He knew because he got a mysterious message from me hinting that his wife had sent the child here. He’s a charming fel- low; and while we’ve told him only what it’s best for him to know about ourselves he cheerfully enlisted in our campaign to protect the camp. He’s even now—” An exclamation from Ruth caused Archie and the Governor to turn toward the lake. The Arthur B. Grover was steaming slowly into the bay. A moment later Leary whistled to call attention -to the Carey launch which was running rapidly toward the camp. “Keep out of sight,” said the Governor, “and send your young charges to play in the woods. We don’t want witnesses if anything disagreeable happens while we're unloading.” “Please,” she cried, turning to go, “take care of yourselves! We'd better give up the fight right now than have you hurt!” “It was pretty nice of her to say that, Archie,” said the Governor soberly, watch- ing her as she pp agg in the long lane of tents. “We'll see some fun now, if Carey cuts up any capers.’ “He'll hardly ram the tug, though he might be fool enough to try it. HE Arthur B. Grover had rounded the point and was feeling its way toward Heart o’ Dreams. Archie recognized Perky, industriously taking soundings and lazily giving orders to the man at the wheel. “How much does she show?” called the Governor. “A couple clothes-lines deep,” replied Perky, without taking the pipe from his mouth. His air of unconcern, his complete ab- sorption in the business of getting the tug in position to unload, the nonchalant man- ner in which he directed the pilot, greatly enhanced Archie’s admiration for Perky. Two men were rigging up a crane to land the bags, boxes and crates that were piled on deck in prodigal profusion. There’s our new launch trailing behind like a cloud of glory,’ said the Governor. “A very snappy little affair it is!” “And a very snappy little man is hang- ing over the rail of the tug gripping an um- brella. How do you suppose Perky’s ex- plaining all this to Eliphalet?” “Trust Perky to be plausible. Wait till father Congdon sees Putney and you'll hear an imitation of the ichthyosaurus singing its song of hate.” Carey’s launch had effected a half circle round Heart o’ Dreams landing and was now drawing nearer. There were two men aboard her, and Leary, having put himself between it and the tug, signalled the Gov- ernor by lifting one arm high over his head, and then extending it horizontally. A careless observer would have thought he was only stretching himself “That means,” the Governor explained, “that there’s a suspicious person on Carey’s launch; and,” he continued, after watching Leary’s further telegraphing, “that Cong- don has identified him as the gentleman who interviewed him at Huddleston this morning. Everything’s going smoothly.” By the time the Arthur B. Grover had warped in, Carey had brought his launch to within a dozen yards of the tug, and his companion was standing up anxiously scru- tinizing the men on board. “Prisoners!” he bawled; “every one of you a prisoner! I know you, Perky; and you needn’t try any tricks on me or it’ll be the worse for you. And don’t you fel- lows on that wharf try any funny business with me!” Perky, busily getting the crane in work- ing order, paid no heed whatever to these threats uttered in the authoritative tone of a man who had the army and navy of the United States behind him. Carey loudly seconded the detective’s demand for the immediate and unconditional surrender of the tug. ; “Trapped! Lost!” cried Eliphalet tragi- cally. “You're mighty right you’re lost!” yelled the officer. “You're a nice old scoundrel, to be circulating plugged gold pieces, and a rich man at that! You're pinched; do you understand? You're under arrest!” The effect of this shot was to cause Eli- phalet to attempt to climb out of the tug to the wharf, but the Governor seized a paddle and gently urged him back. “I beg of you, Mr. Congdon, don’t be disturbed! That person in the launch can’t harm you in the least. He may be annoy- ing; yes; and his voice is extremely dis- (Continued on page 122)

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BLOUSES BOYLSTON STREET THE OLLANDER CO. ESTABLISHED 1848 GOWNS COATS MILLINERY LINGERIE MISSES’ .~-. CHILDRENS CLOTHING Firta AVENUE «* 46°" STREET NEw YorK CITY BOSTON Se eee eee | BLACKSHEEP! Meredith BLACKSHEEP! Nicholson’s Novel (Continued from page 120) agreeable, but really, his utterances are unworthy of the attention of honest men.” “Who the deuce are you?’ demanded Eliphalet, leveling his umbrella at the Gov- ernor. “It occurs to me that we have met before.” “We have, indeed,’ the Governor an- swered, dodging a heavy crate, the first of the freight to be swung ashore. Perky was thoroughly prepared for the expeditious delivery of his cargo, even to wheelbarrows in which three men now be- gan trundling supplies to the camp store- house. The work was proceeding rapidly, without noise or confusion, and Archie and the Governor were busily assisting when the shore rang with a yell. [TEARY and Congdon in the row-boat had been stealing up behind Carey’s launch. Leary sprang aboard while the two men were watching the landing of the stores. Carey, ducking under Leary’s arms, seized a club and knocked him overboard. The detective jumped into the water and swam to the wharf, where he was imme- diately hauled over the side of the tug. By this time Carey was steering for the middle of the bay, where he watched the tug for a while and then retired toward his camp. Leary had crawled upon the pier and was disconsolately shaking the water out of his shoes. “It was a good try, old man,” said the Governor cheerily. “Mr. Carey's not go- ing to be easy to bag, but we've got a de- tective on our hands,”’ he chuckled, “and I don’t know just how we're going to let loose of him.” Putney Congdon had rowed to the wharf to pick up Leary. As the Governor had predicted, Eliphalet Congdon emitted a loud and not wholly joyful howl as he recognized his son. “Hey there! You've been following me! I told you to stay at the farm, and here you come sneaking after me away up here, where I’ve come for rest.” “You were never more mistaken in your life!’ replied Putney. “I came up here to see Edith and found that that fellow you saw in the launch was trying to starve out this camp.” “Edith here? Who says Edith’s here? You’re out of your senses! You know per- fectly well the child's on my Ohio farm!” “Break in on that dialogue,’ said the Governor to Archie. ‘‘Those men will never get anything yelling at each other. I'll attend to Eliphalet, when we land the freight.” “If that wife of yours has stolen Edith, I'll have the law on her!” screamed Elipha- let. ‘“She’s not fit to have the care of children!” Archie walked to the edge of the wharf and commanded Eliphalet to hold his peace. “Putney, row out a few hundred yards and watch Carey. You needn't worry about your father. We'll find some way of getting him out of his scrapes.” The detective, who had been lashed to the pilot-house, roused himself to shout: “You'll make a nice mess of it, trying to get him away from the Government. The whole lot of you are crooks, and you're holding me at your peril.” The discharge of freight had not ceased during this colloquy. The crane swung over the wharf at regular intervals, and the men with the wheelbarrows trotted back and forth with the spirit and agility of men intent upon finishing an honest day’s work. As Putney Congdon, mystified but obedient, rowed away, his father began begging Perky to leave the place and steer for Canada. “you promised to protect me, but you've made a fool of me,’ the old man wailed. “You betrayed me to the police; you— The Governor flung a sack of potatoes into a wheelbarrow, and surveyed the in- furiated Eliphalet for a moment. “Pray calm yourself, Mr. Congdon, and please be careful how you charge people with serious crimes. It seems to be an ob- session with vou,” he remarked serenely, “that everybody on earth is a crook. The proposition interests me _ psychologically. When I get through with this freight, I'll look at your data. Meanwhile, I solemnly warn you to make no charges against me or any friends of mine that you can't prove.” It was five o’clock when the last of the cargo was landed in the store-house. The engincer (a gentleman whose grimy face and mournful eyes belied his record as a hold-up man) sounded the whistle. Ruth ran down to the shore and Archie and the Governor went to meet her. “O you angels!” she cried. “I’ve just taken a peep at the stores and you've given us enough food to last all next sum- mer! It’s perfectly splendid. I wasn't watching—really, I wasn’t—for I had to keep the girls busy; but you did have trouble of some sort?” “Nothing of the slightest consequence,” the Governor answered. ‘We tried to catch Carey but he was too quick for us. But we did pick up a friend of his—the gentleman you see giving an exhibition of haughty disdain out there on the tug. Keep every- body well under cover to-night and don't be alarmed by anything you hear. We'll soon be through with this business.” “Who's that funny little man on the tug. He seems anxious to attract attention!” LIPHALET CONGDON was engaged in an argument with the detective, who, being helpless, was obliged to endure a tirade the old gentleman was delivering to the accompaniment of an occasional prod of the umbrella. “That,” said the Governor, “is Edith Congdon’s paternal grandfather; an estim- able person fallen upon evil times.” “You don’t mean Mr. Eliphalet Cong- don!”’ “Most emphatically I do.” “And have he and his son settled their differences?” “Not so you would notice it! But they'll be loving each other when I get through with them.” “Do you know,” said the girl, looking wonderingly into the Governor’s eyes, “I don’t suppose I could ever learn to know when you're fooling and when you're not.” “After we're married I shall never at- tempt to fool you. By the way,” he added hastily as she frowned and shrugged her shoulders, “when does the camp close?” “August twenty, if Mr. Carey doesn’t close it sooner.” “The date shall stand without reference to Carey’s wishes, intentions or acts. Please write your father to be here on that last day and bring his episcopal robes with him. And, by the way, you spoke of your embarrassments about mail. We’ll send to the Calderville post-office for all the Heart o’ Dreams mail; a boat will deliver it to- night and pick up the camp mail-bag. Have you anything to add, Archie?” “You might say to Isabel,’ said Archie slowly, “that August twenty strikes me as the happiest possible date for our wedding.” “You two talk of weddings as though we were not in the midst of battle, murder and sudden death!” She folded her arms and regarded them with an odd, little smile, half-wistful, half- questioning, playing about her lips. The tug was drawing away from the wharf. Perky sat on the rail placidly sucking an orange, a noble picture of an unrepentant sinner. From the woods floated the far, faint cries and light-hearted laughter of the camp youngsters at play. In spite of his attempt to imitate the Governor’s jaunti- ness Archie felt again, as so often since he left Bailey Harbor, the unreality of the events through which he had been projected with his singular companion, who had drawn him so far out of his orbit that it was hard to believe that he would ever slip into it again. Their affairs had never presented so many problems as now, when the Governor was predicting and planning a happy ending with so much assurance. In the few seconds that Ruth deliberated he plunged to the depths in his despair that Isabel would ever seriously consider him as a lover. “I was just thinking,” said the girl, step- ping back a little into a patch that led from the beach to the woods, “how we seem to be living in the good old times, when knights hastened by land or water to the rescue of ladies in distress. This is all very pretty and be sure we all appreciate what you have done for us. But I don't quite see through to the end!’”’ The smile was gone and there was no doubt of the sincerity of the anxiety that darkened her eyes as she ended with a little, quavering, despairing note: ‘Something serious and dreadful threatens us, one and all of us maybe! It’s only—what do you call such a thing—a presentiment!” “Please don’t think of it!” pleaded Archie; “things are bound to come out all right. You mustn’t lose faith in us.” “Yes: it will be only a little longer,” muttered the Governor with an unnatural listlessness. He had responded instantly to Ruth’s confession of a premonition of evil, and Archie hastened to end the in- terview. “We're not going to lose!” he declared. “It’s when the world is brightest that the shadow of a cloud sometimes makes us fear to trust our happiness. Good-by and good luck!” She was not reassured, however, and as (Continued eo” tage 124)

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JEANNE GAGE THE cycle of seasons comes and goes. We respond to Nature’s changes in our hearts and reflect them in our dress. GAGE HATS charmingly interpret the spirit of the seasons in millinery. Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter— each season finds true expression in Gage art. The spirit of Spring is re- flected in Gage Hats. At all high- class dealers. OF CORRECT MILLINERY New YORK PARIS CHICAGO BLACKSHEEP! Meredith BLACKSHEEP! Nicholson’s Novel (Continued from page 122) she shook hands with them there were tears in her eyes. HE Governor quickly recovered his spirits and with characteristic enthusi- asm began putting the new launch through its paces. Like everything that pleased him, the launch was wonderful. He called upon Archie to bear witness to its unsur- passed merits, and they ran out to the row- boat to invite the admiration of Putney and Leary. Putney, they found, was skilled in the handling of such craft, and the Gov- ernor cheerfully turned the launch over to him. “You take it and run up to Calderville, where you'd better get supper. Pick up the Heart o’ Dreams mail and bring it back to Huddleston, and meet us on the wharf at nightfall. We've got a heavy night’s work ahead of us. Carey’s probably jarred a good deal to find that we've got a tug and a launch to play with.”’ “That's all right, and I’ll obey orders, of course,” said Congdon wiping the oil from his hands; “but don’t forget that my father’s out there on that tug. I don't know what trouble he’s in, but I can’t for- get that he’s my father—” Archie, touched by his display of feeling, turned with a pleading glance to the Gov- ernor, but the Governor needed no prompt- ing to be kind. “My dear boy,” he said, “you may rely upon me to extricate your father from his embarrassments. Archie and I are going aboard the tug to study his case carefully. If we don’t do anything else this summer, we're going to take the kink out of your family affairs.” “There’s no reason why you should—” Putney began. “Reason!” exclaimed the Governor, snap- ping his fingers contemptuously; ‘reasons for things are a horrible bore. In this pretty good old world we must apologize for our sins and weaknesses, but not for our kind intentions.” As they boarded the Arthur B. Grover Eliphalet made no attempt to speak to Putney, though he leaned over the side and shook his umbrella at the launch as it drew away. The Governor told Perky to pro- duce food and invited Eliphalet and the detective to supper. The officer, churlish from his bath in the bay and his enforced appearance in jumper and overalls during the drying of his garments, replied to a polite inquiry that his name was Briggs, but that his credentials had been lost in his tumble into the water. “We shall waive all formalities,’ said the Governor, “as my guest your official connections, real or fictitious, concern me not at all.” Corned beef, crackers, fruit and coffee composed the supper, and Eliphalet Cong- don, Briggs, Archie and the Governor sat crosslegged on the deck and partook of it picnic fashion, “A truce to our difficulties, gentlemen!” the Governor cried, lifting his tin cup of coffee. “I’m sure there are misunderstand- ings involving all of us that time will clear up. It’s mighty lucky for you, Briggs, that we succeeded in detaching you from that chap who brought you here. If you had remained in his company, you would certainly have come to grief. With mur- derous intent he ran down two women right here in the bay last night. We saved their lives by sheer good luck. You were not with him, I suppose, and I’ll charitably assume you don’t know his purpose in at- tacking them.” “HE says the girls’ camp is on his land and he’s only trying to drive ‘em off,” replied Briggs. “‘Whatever his game is, it’s none of my business * “It’s any man’s business to protect women and innocent children from the malice of a madman. To let you into a dark secret, he’s got the idea that there’s buried treas- ure somewhere on the | and occupied by Heart o’ Dreams Camp. Treasure!’ r choad Eliphalet. “Do you mean to say there’s money buried there?” ‘hat’s the idea,” said the Governor with a grim smile at the sudden glint of greed in the old man’s eyes. He told the story, told it with flourishes and decora- tions that pleased Archie immensely. “It sounds pretty fishy,” said Briggs, “but there may be something in it.” “You never can tell,” muttered Elipha- let. “It would have been natural for one of those old Southerners who hadn’t any confidence in Jeff Davis to plant his money in some lonely place like this.” “In one way or another we are all seek- ers of buried treasure,’ remarked the Gov- ernor sententiously. His story had cleared the air, giving, as Archie reflected, a fresh illustration of the power of romance to soften the harshness of even so realistic a situation as conironted the tug’s passengers. Eliphalet’s imagina- tion had been stirred, and he asked many questions about the treasure. Briggs lost his hostile air and showed himself the pos- sessor of an unsuspected amiability. “You seem to be a good fellow,’ re- marked the Governor, ‘and your interest in the Arthur B. Grover is legitimate enough, I dare say. But if you will promise to be- have and not try to leave the tug or molest any one on board, you're free to do as you like. But I want you to play fair.” “I seem to be at your mercy. You've got to consider that my reputation is at stake. It’s my duty to land Mr. Congdon and that chap you call Perky in the nearest jail and report their arrest to Washington.” “Washington,” replied the Governor, drawing his hand across his face, “is a beautiful city; but it’s a long way from here. Be assured that I’m no anarchist and the delicate matter of your professional standing is something that shall engage my most earnest thought. Please make your- self comfortable.” He bade Archie follow him to the bow where Eliphalet, leaning upon his umbrella, was gazing moodily into the water. “Mr. Congdon,” the Governor began in his blandest tones, “as a mere looker-on at the passing show, I’m persuaded that you're not getting much out of life. A mistake, sir; a mistake it grieves me to see you making.” “What I do or do not do,” replied the old man testily, thrusting the umbrella under his arm, “is none of your infernal business.” “An error, sir; an error of considerable magnitude, if you will pardon me! I wish my friend here to bear witness that I am qualified to offer you excellent advice based on exact information as to your intimate domestic affairs. You're a meddlesome per- son, Mr. Congdon, with a slight element of cruelty in your makeup, of which let us hope you are not wholly conscious. Morally you are skidding, but that I charitably at- tribute to your lack of a wholesome and healthy interest in life. Incidentally, you’ve done all you could to destroy the happi- ness of your son, who is a fine fellow and a gentleman.” “And his wife, your daughter-in-law, is a woman of charm, one of the noblest women in the world!” interjected Archie, seeing that the Governor’s arraignment was not without its effect on the odd, crumpled little figure. However, the mention of Mrs. Congdon instantly aroused Eliphalet’s ire. “That woman ordered me out of her house—a house I bought and paid for! She did her best to make my son hate me! She compelled him to quit the businesses I started in order to give him employment!” “Your trouble is that you never knew when Putney grew up,” declared the Gov- ernor. ‘You tried to boss him even after his marriage, and if Mrs. Congdon turned you out of her house she did only what any self-respecting woman would do. As the result of your miserly ways, your meddle- someness and your selfishness you've just about ruined your life. The penitentiary yawns for you.’ Eliphalet shuddered, and a look of fear not pleasant to see crossed his face. “But,” the Governor went on, Rat rather disposed to pull you out of the ole.” “You will help—you really will help me?” “Not if you cringe and shrivel. If you will stand square on your feet and listen to me, I’ll make you a proposition. Don’t flinch; I don’t want any of your money! I’ve heard that you make a habit of carry- ing your will around in that umbrella, for the ludicrous reason that you think you are not one.of us weak-minded mortals who forget our umbrellas. And you like to have it where you can rewrite it, when the mood strikes you. Give me that thing!” Eliphalet hesitated, but the Governor said, “If you please, Mr. Congdon,” with all possible shadings of courteous insistence, and gently pried it from the old man’s fingers. It was a heavy, bulgy, disreputable-look- ing umbrella with a battered crook-handle. The canopy was held together by a piece of twine. Rather than be seen with the thing, any self-respecting person would cheer- fully take a drenching. The Governor opened it, shook out a number of manila envelopes, all carefully sealed, and flung the umbrella from him, as though it were an odious and hateful thing. As it struck the water it spread open and a capful of wind seized it and bore it gaily away. The Gov- ernor watched it for a moment with an ironic grin, then began opening the en- velopes and scanning the contents. (Continued on page 172)

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| | | ' WOMEN AS Arnold Bennett’s CHARMERS Story (Continued from page 97) “Not more so than usual,” I protested. “But you aren't going to tell me that if you started out to charm Jack it wasn’t your fault that you failed. You know as well as I do that he is nothing but a great simple- ton and you can do what you like with him.” “He was cross when he came in,’ she said. “He is brutal,’ I concurred. “But you must remember he’s got responsibilities that you haven't got. Responsibilities make brutes.” “So have I got responsibilities.” “I agree, fully. But you haven't got the responsibility of finding the money every month to keep this palace of yours solvent. Why should Jack provide you with food, and fine raiment, and servants, and so on?” She cried: “I like that! I like that! Considering that he married me!” “I admit he married you,” I said. “But what were you doing while he was marrying you?” “What do you mean?” “Weren't you marrying him? If so, weren't you taking on some responsibili- ties? The fact is you don’t deny that you have responsibilities. Indeed, you claim them. They aren’t so heavy as his, but there they are. And one of them is to be a balm and not a fret-saw to Jack, when he comes home cross. What have you been doing with all that celebrated charm of yours, Mrs. Jack?” My appeal to her was flattering. She thought a moment, and then said, ag- grieved: “Why should I try to charm Jack, when Jack doesn't try to charm me?’ To which question I opposed another: “Why should Jack open doors for you and raise his hat to you?” “Because I'm a woman, of course!” “Well,’ I said. “That's the answer.” SHE muttered gloomily and resentfully: That's all very well. But it’s not so easy to be charming when Jack’s everything seems to be wrong.” “Most true!” I assented. “Most true! It is not. But you're a virtuous woman, and there’s no terrific virtue in being charm- ing when Jack’s charming and everything’s all right. A cat could be that! And there wouldn’t be any virtue in Jack earning a living for you, if things fell out of the sky. Only they don’t. Jack’s got a life job. And so have you. And part of yours is to keep the savage charmed.” “Yes, and spoil him!” “No! And not spoil him. To do it without spoiling him. To spoil him would be a crime. You have to manage to be virtuous without being criminal. History shows us, my dear Mrs. Jack, that the most powerful and successful charmers never spoiled the men they charmed.” “And yet,’ she said with sarcasm, sud- denly sitting up straight, “both you and Jack are frightiully keen on me taking on this new post. “What's that got to do with it?” “It’s got this to do with it,” she said. “Here I am to go and work and have re- sponsibilities same as Jack, and rush home tired out and prepare myself to charm Jack. I tell you one thing—and I know what I’m talking about—you can’t be charming when you're tired out, unless you're an angel. And I’m not an angel.” “Oh, yes, you are,” I contradicted her. “At any rate, you look considerably more like an angel than Jack does. But I don't want you to be an angel. Jack would hate living with an angel. An angel would drive him to his club every night of the week. And I don’t want you to work like Jack does, or to look at work—I mean outside work—as Jack looks at it. I entirely and absolutely admit that it would be too much to expect you to charm at full power if you were tired out. “I wouldn't dream of asking you to get up before breakfast to manage your house while Jack still slept, and then go forth at the same time as Jack and toil abroad and come home two minutes before him, and then miraculously meet the barbarian on the doorstep looking as fresh as if you had been taken out of a drawer, and pretend that you had been waiting in idleness for him all day. No! Certainly not. “Jack and this household are your chief job. All I say is that if you have more time than the job needs—and you have, you know—you'll do well for your soul’s sake not to waste it. Wasting time is bound in the end to be bad for your charm. Using time is bound to increase it—if that’s pos- sible. Now Jack will be back very soon. He’s certain to take the last car. I'll de- cross and | part. Pardon my oration.” “You've been very disagreeable,” she said. “But won't you stay?” “No,” I said. 7 never interfere between, husband and wife.” I COME now to the effect of a profes- sional career upon feminine charm. Most men, and many women, will agree with the dictum: A woman can only think of one thing at once. The statement is of course exaggerated, in order to emphasize the es- sential truth underlying it. This is a de- fect which it shares with all epigrams. But it is in my opinion a fair generalization; though I do not mean literally that no wo- man can think of more than one thing at once, or that no man ever fails to think of more than one thing at once. An illustration of this truth is provided by nearly every woman who adopts a pro- fessional career. She abandons herseli to the career, which becomes her religion, her god, her tyrant, her unique infatuation. She is changed into a fanatic. She will splendidly sacrifice on the altar health, beauty, leisure, love, family ties—all. She exists for the career. The quality is often called devotion. I do not say that it is not devotion; I do say that it is certainly due to a sexual disabil- ity to think of more than one thing at once. The result may be magnificent, but it is not life. It may be an ecstasy, but it is an ecstasy in a corridor. And it is no more a proof of self-fulfilment than the overgrown heart of an athlete is a proof of self-fulfilment. When exceptional men dis- play the same characteristic of fanatical specialization they grow into monsters. Some milder variant of the word ought to be in- vented for the description of women. It may be said that women who have re- nounced all for a career and thrust the mere thought of matrimony or dalliance out of their souls do not need feminine charm. I agree, or rather I do not wholly disagree. But in the first place such women are in reality few; and in the second place their resolution (save in special circumstances) is highly reprehensible. No human being (save as aforesaid) is justified in cutting himself or herself off in thought from the other sex. To do so is to constitute one- self an enemy of the social order and to imitate the tragic eccentricity of a fakir who deliberately paralyzes a limb. ‘he majority of professional women, however, with all their intense devotion to an idea, which has no connection with sex- ual relations, do keep half an eye on men. The attitude of men to these women is more easy to explain than to defend. It is an attitude of mistrust. It is an attitude of jealousy. They seem to be saying: ‘These women can run their lives with- out us. These women have committed the sin of ceasing to be helpless and defence- less. They have entered our preserve, after considerable opposition which has proved futile. They have accepted our conditions. They are making good. Let us beware of them, for if we took them to wife, they would not be content to be our complement. They would have interests beyond ourselves. They might neglect us. They would assert their independence. There would be two masters by the fireside. They would argue. The ipse dixit of the husband would be smiled at, if not laughed at. Moreover, we detect already in their glance a certain scorn. Lastly, they have lost some, if not all, their charm.” HICH is absurd, and numerous men by personal experience have proved it to be absurd. True, helplessness has charm; de- fencelessness has charm; particularly for the strong and the overbearing. Men are accustomed to this charm, and professional women have assuredly shed much of it. But they were thoroughly entitled to shed it, for it should belong properly only to the young. And in demanding it from modern women, modern men can perhaps be convicted of an egotistical perversity somewhat akin to the perversity of the roué, who will look at none but maids. Modern men on the same count may also be charged with a reactionary timidity and a lack of self-confidence, and a foolish de- sire to stop the earth from revolving. A man with a firm scientific grasp of the fact that the earth will anyhow continue to re- volve ought to welcome the idea of a chal- lenge from an independent equal on the hearthrug. The idea ought to brace him to the fulfilment of his own possibilities, and to open up to him vistas of new thrills, excitations and victories. He ought to per- ceive that he has a proud and necessary réle to play in the education and completion of these original daring female creatures, whose flinging of the gauntlet will sharpen his wits and waken him into full activity. It is admissible that professional women cannot give as much thought as the other (Continued on page 134)

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F women could only be made to understand that there is no beautifier equal to cheerfulness, ill tempers would vanish like mist before the sun and the world would be reformed in a twink- ling! We all know that depressing thoughts and emotions breed poisons in the blood and are inimical to health and beauty, yet women continue to in- dulge in unwholesome moods quite recklessly. This makes extra work for the doctors and me. On the other hand, there is no tonic, no stimulant, so potent as happiness. “Vital feelings of delight” expand the lungs, make the blood pulse vigorously, free nerves and muscles from tension and animate all one’s faculties. Face your mirror. Look tired; look worried; look sullen; pout. See how the muscles sag and unlovely lines ap- pear. You mustn’t encourage those lines. By middle age they would make your face repellant. Now “perk up!”—Look happy. Isn’t it transforming? Realize how a cheerful expression makes the face grow in beauty. It Reaury AND YOUR HABIT OF MIND A Little Preachment by ELIZABETH ARDEN ‘“‘A merry heart doeth good like a medicine, but a _ broken spirit drieth the _ bones.’’ improves the contour of cheeks and chin, gives a charming curve to the lips and habituates the facial muscles to positions that hinder the formation of age-wrinkles. Cultivate a “merry heart.”” It pays. All you have to do is to like people and be optimistic. BUT— though Beauty’s well-spring is within, external care cannot be dispensed with. Past sins of omission, present lapses, and all the physical agencies such as wind, sun, dust and malicious little organisms, must have their effects counteracted. Haphazard methods in care of the appearance are as ineffectual as a hap- hazard education. Develop your charms systematically, purposefully. To do this you must have an expert instructor. Let me advise you. Helping women to be beautiful is not just a ‘‘business” with me. It is a life-work to which I have dedicated myself with ardent en- thusiasm. That’s why I tell you about cheerfulness as well as about my prepa- rations. I love to make women lovely. To perfect my method, I have left no stone unturned. Every quarter of the globe has been drawn upon for the THE BIBLE ingredients that make my Venetian Preparations so effective. My Muscle-Strapping Treatments, now in such general use, minister to every need of the skin. For developing a beautiful complexion and contours, effacing lines and wrinkles and keeping the face youthful, there is really no system that approaches this. Women of wealth sometimes come several-days’ journeys to consult me and take a course of treatments at my Salon. They have learned how worth- while my treatments are. But you don’t have to go to so much trouble and expense. If you are not able to take personal treatments, Ill gladly give you any information you want by letter. Just write me regarding anything and everything you wish ad- vice about—skin, contour, hair, lashes, brows, hands, over - weight, under- weight — in short, anything that con- cerns your appearance. I'll tell you just what to do to make the most of your natural endowments. And be sure to send for those book- lets of mine—about the Venetian Preparations and my Home Course. oe . VENETIAN CLEANSING CREAM— A scientific cleanser which liquefies when applied, therefore does not stretch the skin. Cleans the pores thoroughly and leaves the skin soft and _ receptive. 1, $2, $3. VENETIAN ARDENA SKIN TONIC— For use after the Cleansing Cream. Mildly astringent, it tones, whitens and refines the skin and makes it brilliantly fresh and clear, $1.75, $3.25. VENETIAN SPECIAL ASTRINGENT— A rejuvenating tonic which firms sagging muscles, reduces puffiness under the eyes, and by gradually tightening the skin, eliminates deep wrinkles. Made of im- ported herbs. $3.50. VENETIAN MUSCLE OIL— Nothing is so effective for banishing lines and wrinkles as this splendid muscle strengthener. $1, $2.25, $4. VENETIAN ORANGE SKIN FOOD— A real skin food and tissue builder. It is both food and tonic for thin faces. Fills out hollows in cheeks and around the 2 75 or eyes and forehead. $1.75, $2.75, $3.75. VENETIAN PORE CREAM— An infallible remedy for enlarged pores and blackheads. VENETIAN ACNE LOTION— Quickly banishes pimples and other skin blemishes. Every woman should keep a bottle for occasional need. $1.25. VENETIAN ADONA CREAM— Rounds out the contour of neck, bust and shoulders—a sure remedy for a neck too thin for decollete. $1.50, $2.50, $3.50. VENETIAN LILLE LOTION— A liquid powder which protects the skin from exposure and gives a lovely, natural finish. Slightly astringent, it helps correct an oily skin, acne and flushing. Ideal for evening ; does not rub off. Blanche, Cream, Naturelle, Spanish Rachel. $1, $2. VENETIAN AMORETTA CREAM— A fragrant day cream to use _ before powdering. Protects the skin and keeps it soft and smooth. $1, $2. POUDRE D’ILLUSION— Gives the skin a peach-like bloom. Ini- mitable in tint and quality. Exquisitely perfumed. $2.75. VENETIAN EYE SHADOW— Blend lightly over the eyelids and at the corner of the eyes to intensify the color and brilliance of the eyes and make them appear larger. Box, $1 VENETIAN ROSE COLOR— A beneficial liquid rouge that duplicates nature in its fresh delicate tone. Water- proof ; does not rub off. $1, $2. SAVON KENOTT— A famous Parisian dentifrice which puri- fies and preserves the teeth, hardens the gums, sweetens the breath and is delicious in taste and fragrance. Box, $1. If the Arden Preparations are not avail- able at your dealer’s, address orders to Elizabeth Arden at her New York Salon. Please include 4% tax in remit- tance; also postage if amount ts under $10. ELIZABETH ARDEN SALON D'ORO, 673 FIFTH AVE., NEW YORK; SUITE 308 BOSTON NEWPORT BRANCHES WASHINGTON DETROIT PALM BEACH SAN FRANCISCO

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<9 ee = a, i 2 17 4 -S -- ON- GE - ON -E -t -E # ED | . ‘ CRYSTA; Knit & Sabres | CRYSTAL KNIT —the newest and most beau- tiful of all fabrics has won a permanent place in the hearts of Madame and her Modiste. Its beauty lies in its scintillat- ing lustre, its glorious colorings and its adaptability to every form of fashionable costume. In the world of Lustrous Knit Fabrics CRYSTAL KNIT rules. De- mand it by name—in the made- up garment, or by the yard. CRYSTAL MILLS, Inc. THE TOMPKINS CO., Inc. SOLE DISTRIBUTORS 354 FOURTH AVE., NEW YORK CITY

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Posed by Helene Chadwick Motion Picture Star beautiful complexion. It removes every trace of exces sive oiliness, and leaves the face cool, comfortable, and with the natural bloom of youth. And so fine—so adherent—that it leaves no trace of roughened skin to annoy and irritate. R= POWDER JONTEEL is the proper accent to a Only the smallest amount is needed, because each infini- tesimal particle has a definite evaporating and cooling value. That is why Face Powder Jonteel is so desirable. That is why there is no need to apply it heavily. A light application gives the complexion a soft and lovely texture. Sold at The Rexall Stores exclusively. In Canada, Jonteel prices are slightly higher. Face Powder Jonteel, soc Sface’ Powder Compacts, 50c Talc Jonteel, 25¢ Combination Cream Jonteel, soc Cold Cream Jonteel, 50c Soap Jonteel, 25¢ Odor Jonteel, $1.50 Odor Jonteel Concentrate, $3 Rouge Jonteel, 50¢ CPerfumed with the Costly New Odor of 26 DPlowers FACE RO WDER | -

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BUILDERS

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Fine music and fine furniture _. united TO lovers of good music and good furniture, Brunswick |) Phonograph Models De Luxe have anardent appeal. © In ‘design, the Lombardi is reminiscent of the early Ve- netian art. In rooms where the decorative motif is Italian, this model is in rare good taste. Besides The Lombardi, Brunswick Models De Luxe include cabinets that are,.in design, heritages of the roman- tic past in the Manor Houses of England and the Chateaux of France. Modern art is expressed in the Gotham. Concealed within these hand wrought cabinets is the phonograph of equal merit, equipped with a new and im- proved electric motor. ° The Brunswick Method of Reproduction captivates music lovers by its attainment in clarity of expression and faithful rendition of the artist’s talent. Briefly, this method is based upon the Ultona and the Tone Amplitier—two fea- turgs exclusively Brunswick. ~ ive _ .Onr newest advancement is found in Brunswick Rec- ords. Each Brunswick record-is interpreted by a noted director, or accomplished artist technically trained in the art of recording. Thus we unite the talent of the artist with the genius of the composer.. * © Write us for brochure in colors describing all models in eo Or ask any Brunswick dealer for a copy. a ee.) a ee | ' THE BRUNSWICK-BALKE-COLLENDER COMPANY ¢ General Offices: 623-633 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago J Houses in Principal Cities of Canadian Distributors: Musical Merchandise a. Pita sich Sales Co., 819 Yonge St., Toronto . / of : fs by , YY, conan

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Ae, ee a ae \7, (Wa 7 a a abe ee Mme | 8 WAN tia, ‘t a yo i ag i Hit HMR YT WLC TUHE + Saag iy, [*0 \/* NB | 7 a ow, You do not use a spinning wheel Thank invention for a better way of getting your fabrics. And thank invention for Faust Instant Coffee The Pure, Refined, Soluble Coffee Stop to consider what a remarkable convenience FAUST INSTANT is. You can prepare it in a moment—treal pure coffee in just the nght flavor. “A little powder in the cup--add boiling water’’—that’s all. And you have done away with the messy pot, the grounds, the waste. Of course, FAUST INSTANT is more economical. Your dealer has Faust Instant Coffee and Tea in the cans of three sizes. COFFEE TEA EACH 30-Cup Can -- 100-Cup Can -- $0.45 60-Cup Can -- 200-Cup Can -- .85 120-Cup Can -- 400-Cup Can -- 1.60 If your dealer has not received his supply, send us his name and your order direct. ADDRESS DEP’T. 50. We manufacture also the World Famous Faust Coffee and Tea and Faust Chile Powder, the favorite seasoning for soups, meats and salads. At your dealers, I5c. By mail, 20c.

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Knows the Lure of this French Veil Paris says that smart women shall be trigly veiled this season. The j3o»n73 Veil, imported from France, fits smoothly—sans wrinkles. It is the Veil which all Paris loves. “Just Slip It On” in one deft motion—no tying, no pinning, no ugly, bumpy knots! The silk elastic run through the edge holds it snugly in place. At the betler shops everywhere. Fully guaranteed. If your dealer cannot supply you send 25c for the Veil Miss Stewart is wearing.—Pat. No. 113, The ome} Co., Inc. 222 Fourth Ave., New York Also Imgorters of JBonnte)3 Human Hair Nets. J3onnte 73 VEIL IMPORTED .FROM FRANCE ee “Just Slip iton!” tions, and she made John feel that his wishes were a pleasure to her, and his tastes and hab- its part of the fixed laws of the universe. Nothing must stand between John and Yorkshire pudding with beef. She felt the same about her father, only with Mr. Brett it was horseradish sauce. Elise went to church regularly with Mr. | Brett, because he said he had come to the conclusion that religion should be like tobacco, got from an old firm and mild, but she told John quite truthfully that she loved to hear him read free-thinking books out loud on Sunday evenings. When John said that you could not be orthodox and honest simultane- | ously, Elise saw what he meant, and when | Mr. Brett said very few men were honest | anyway, even a first-class infidel rubbed all | over by the higher criticism could tell a lie at a pinch, Elise saw what Mr. Brett meant. Nevertheless Elise had a mind of her own. She knew what was going to happen before anybody else did, and she never repeated facts which were inconvenient for other people to know unless it was absolutely necessary that they should know them. If Elise was more with her father than she had been before Hermione’s illness, John made up for it by being oftener with Hermione. OHN had been extremely impressed by Hermione’s illness. It struck him that nobody else realized how seriously ill she had been. Elise had been temporarily alarmed, but, having seen Hermione very ill before and recover, she seemed to think that the process would reassert itself Mr. Brett went still further. He said, “Why, John, she’s got to recover—she wants to.” It was only John who faithfully be- lieved that Hermione’s illness was the stroke of a Higher Power, and watched her conval- escence with the painstaking anxiety which such a belief suggested. Hermione made a steady and courageous recovery. She dismissed Nurse Davies with three new hats and a long list of errands to do tor her in town, and then she proceeded to eat normally and assume the habits of other people. It was not an easy task to undertake for any one who had been a dangerous invalid for five years, but Hermione did not only undertake it, she carried it out with fortitude and common sense. A tortnight after her illness she came down to a meal and ate it without having ordered it beforehand. The cook was thunderstruck. “I would as soon have believed the word ot a Un,” she said when told of 11. Afterwards Hermione went out into the garden. She expected Elise to accompany her, but Elise, with her hand in her father’s aim, wandered off faithlessly in the direction of che village. She did not even say where she was going, and Hermione particularly resenced the mysterious disappearances of otner people. Elise was absorbed in Mr. Brett. Hermione, watching her with ag- grieved eyes, felt that it was time this un- reflecting intimacy was destroyed. “If I let her,’ she said to herself, “1 believe she woula put Papa before John and ruin her hfe’s happiness—Elise never had any judg- menc Elise ana Mr. Brett had gone to see Bodger. He had been boarded out in the village with a thick cnain and a large quantity of dog biscuits, but in the evening he was allowed to go for a walk by himself, and from his lack of appeate when he returned it was supposed he had, with gross lack of patriotism, account- ed fo: many rabbits. On the whole Bodger had a happy life, though he missed John. HEN they returned, Mr Brett went into the library and Hermione advanced acruss the lawn to meet Elise carrying with vbvious difficulty an enormous vegetable marrow. * Dearest Hermione!” cred Elise; “‘what are you doing that for?” Hernuone laid the marrow reverently upon the grass and delicately wiped the dirt off her long, carefully manicured fingers with a lace pocket nandkerchief. “T did it to save you, dear,” she said panting. “1 did not wish you to be overtired atter your walk—perhaps a long one—with Papa.” “Oh, but—” cried Elise aghast, ‘I never do pick marrows—Demster always does!” “Not. I think,” said Hermione, gently but implacably, ‘“‘for the soldiers’ hospital. I understand from Demster that the vegetables tor the hospital you always pick yourself.” “How very, very good of you,” said Elise gratefully. “You must sit right down and rest.” Hermione sat down, but she had no inten- tion of resting. “Don’t trouble about me, dear,”’ she said meekly. ‘‘But promise me you will not go again into the marrow bed yourself?” THE MISCHIEF-MAKER Phyllis Bottome’s Novel (Continued from page 71) “Oh, why?” asked Elise remorsefully. ? “There are adders there,” said Hermione impressively. ‘It would not be safe. I have heard that the sting of an adder can easily prove fatal.” ‘ “Oh, but Hermione!” cried Elise. “You oughtn’t to have gone there yourself, but are you sure there are adders? I thought—” Hermione interrupted her smilingly. “Dear,” she said, ‘I don’t grudge a per- sonal risk to serve our splendid men. Think what they do for us!” Elise bit her lips and looked into the laurel bush. John had investigated the marrow bed himself that morning and he had found there were no adders there but one pani stricken slow worm, which gave up its taste for marrows from that hour. But Elise was a generous soul. She saw that for dramatic reasons Hermione wanted adders, and she forbore to replace them by a slow worm. “Demster can easily take the marrow down to the hospital to-night,” she said gently. “‘It isn’t our usual collecting day.” _‘Forgive me,” said Hermione bitterly, “if I have been officious. You sometimes make me feel as if I were a little in the way.” Elise winced as if she had been struck. — “Oh, Hermione!” was all she said. “Do not be distressed, dear,’’ said Hermione kindly. ‘“‘Young married people like to feel their new authority, I know it is a punish- ment I deserve. I stepped out of my path to come here. I must now step back again.” Hermione looked at the house and let her eyes wander across the gaiden to the hills. She would have liked a country house to be larger than Mambles. “It is all too simple and happy and peaceful for me here,” she added. ‘You do not feel so deeply about it, I know. Why should you? John is safe and for you the cataclysm of nations is but a humming in the air. I cannoi take it so calmly. I feel as if a knife were pressing against me every hour.” LISE looked conscience-stiicken; she could not truthfully say she felt the war every hour. She felt it regularly after break- fast when the newspaper came, and from time to time during the day when there was something she could not do about it; but it did not haunt her like the possibility of John’s wet feet. Hermione looked haunted. She was suf- fering from severe indigestion caused by carrying a heavy marrow after an ordinary meal. “‘T came to you,” Hermione said gravely, “because you called me.” Elise did not deny this fact, but she wore a guilty air. She had called Hermione, but she remembered that she had felt she ought to. “T cannot say that I am sorry that I came,” Hermione continued kindly. ‘I have seen your life for myself. Perhaps I have been able to remove from your path a few of the stumbling blocks of marriage.” “Oh, yes!’”’ Elise interrupted gratefully. “‘T never knew there were so many before!” “TI hope so,” said Hermione tenderly, “but Ihave seen something else besides, some- thing which it is quite natural that in the first flush of your happiness you should have over- looked—Papa’s dire need.” “His what?” cried Elise aghast. “His need of me,’ Hermione repeated briefly. Her eyes held Elise’s firmly. Elise could not have looked away if she had wanted to. She felt like a bird fascinated by some- thing that is about to strike it. “Oh,” she faltered, ‘“‘I thought Papa was happy.” ““My dear!” said Hermione impatiently; “you never thought at all, your mind was—as it is even now—drugged by the miasma of marriage. Papa has been failing steadily. Mambles does not suit him. He needs a dry, bracing place with plenty of life in it. He has been living-here alone with his double tragedy, and there are five underground rivers in Sussex. I wonder he has not gone mad!” ‘Does he—is he—thinking of going away? asked Elise apprehensively. : “Yes, dear,” said Hermione impressively. “Papa is coming with me to Paris. I shall make his declining years the study of my life. Elise said nothing. . It was a hot still day—not a leaf stirred in the garden, only above it the swallows took their circling hurrying flights. They swept across the hedges and through the red creepers that covered their nests beneath the eaves, with a speed which showed nothing but the quick blown passage of their flight. . Outside in the fields there was an occasional sharp whirr and click of a frightened par- tridge. ’ “T thought he liked quiet,” Elise murmured after a pause. ‘I dare say we shall have a garden in the Champs Elysees,” said Hermione loftily, “That will be quiet enough for him. Mr. Brett appeared in the library door. (Continued on page 132)

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Phyllis He advanced slowly across the south terrace. * Are you warm enough out there?”’ he asked. “Tt s what they call the heat of the day here, isn’t it? I guess I'll bring a fur rug along.” ‘It will be hotter in Paris,” said Hermione incisively. Mr. Brett drew forward a long low chair and made himself thoroughly comfortable. “Why, yes,” he agreed leaning back and half closing his eyes to study the herbaceous borders at his ease. ‘I guess there'll be hot moments over there and cold ones, too, as far as that goes. Have you been telling Elise our little plans about Paris?’ a: es, * said Hermione, | Papa. | Elise said nothing, her eyes rested intently | on her father’s face. | Mr. Brett drew his soft hat further forward

“IT have told her, lover his eyes, and stretched out his legs in

front of him. “Hermione,” he said, “is going to devote herself to my declining years. Say, Hermione, I tell you what it is, | want some of that de- votion right now. As you are going into the house, I'd like you to tell my man to bring me out an overcoat. Do you remember that hymn Elise played to a tum-tum waltz tune, *The roseate hues of early dawn, how fast they fade away—’? Well, I guess it’s accurate; anything to do with the sun over here is liable to pretty rapid fading.” Hermione rose slowly and gracefully. She had not been going into the house. She opened her lips to speak, then she shut them again, and walked leisurely towards the open library door. ‘Hermione has made a grand recovery,” said her father appreciativ ely. “She reminds me of Jonah’s gourd. As far as I remember it came up in the night and was powerful shady on the following day. But in the end it crossed Jonah by wilting when he least ex- pected it. Jonah miscalculated that gourd— but he wasn't much of a stayer as a iadene anyway. “Oh, Daddy!” going to Paris?” Mr. Brett met her eyes; for a long time they neither of them spoke. Then Mr. Brett said said Elise. ‘Are you really | with a gentleness which his voice never held for anyone else, “T guess you’ re going to be all right here Flise—with John.” OHN looked across from the mass of papers on his desk to his father-in-law’s impassive face. He was a young man with a generous share of self-control, but he could not help re vealing that he was very much moved. ‘You can't really mean, sir,”’ he said, with a momentary trembling of his hand as he turned over the mass of papers, “that a// your work is to. be leit with me? The reconstruction work as well, that I am to have the regulation of all this and take the proceeds? It’s a tremendous future—and a tremendous for- tune! Mr. Brett lit a cigar in a leisurely way and tilted back his chair to his favorite angle. “Yes.” he agreed indifferently, *there’s money in it. There’s most usually money in what occurs to me, but it ain’t anything to make a fuss about. Some people breed mon- ey, and some people breed dogs. I guess I’m what you might call a money-fancier. As for those old notes, I took ’em while I was prowl- ing round this garden and the English Govern- ment has decided it wants to take them up. I made it my condition that you were to be managing director—that’s all there is to it. ‘I shan’t be over here any more. I can’t be in two places at once, and I’ve run that Channel passage during this war as faithfully as if [ were a German submarine, and I guess I’m just about as tired of it as German sub- marines are going to be. I'll get along all right in Paris. Brains don’t go bankrupt. What IL have left will come in mighty useful in France. France wants new machinery a sight more than you do. She’s commercially as flat as a plate, but she can be built up and she’s got to be. There'll be plenty on the plate be- fore France is through, and I'd like to be one of the men who put something there. Don’t you worry about me. John drew a deep breath. He could not keep still in his excitement. He walked up and down the long library at Mambles with his visions hot before him. Mr. Brett looked at him with satisfaction. He liked John, and he liked pleasing him, but he knew that he wasn’t going on pleasing him. He waited for his bad moment with the same unshaken placidity with which he waited for his good ones. There was no homely truth of which Mr. Brett was fonder, or more content to make a practical use of, than that of taking the rough with the smooth. F I come to pieces over it,” Jonn demand- ed, “‘or if I get cold feet, can I come over and see you? There's such a lot of things to THE MISCHIEF-MAKER Bottome’s Novel (Continued from page 130) plan and think of—you’ve given me such pone rs, and the plans themselves are so big— I almost hesitate to undertake them, and yet I'd rather do it than anything else in the world!” “You can come over and see me as long as I'm there, ” said Mr. Brett cautiously. “But you won't need to. You go into your own brain and pick at that. You've got a- plenty. “T’ve studied the English mind some, since I’ve been over here, and I guess I’ve spotted what’s wrong with it. It’ $ us lazy asa dog! You don’t use what you've got, maybe you’ re frightened it would look showy, maybe you're so stuck on behaving the way you weren’t made, that you're afraid your wits will let you down into behi wing the way you were made; but you've got wits. “Look at your navy! When I read your newspapers I could cry. When I talk to your highbrows I could laugh—and when I hear the muddles your Government is liable to stick into, I wonder any of you are alive. But when I look at your navy I see the whole thing as clear as glass. Are there any folk— even the showiest broker in Wall Street, or the latest quick-thinking Jap—that acts more like a live wire than the junior lieutenant of one of your destroyers? Are there any men who see cooler and clearer than one of your young admirals? Or I might say, one of your infant middies—for they're all as clear-eyed and hard-headed as professional burglars! No, sir, you can’t find ten in any country quicker or more spry than your naval officers. And why is it? I figure it out this way they got to be. Sea fighting is like operatic singing, you haven’t one thing to think of, you have half a doze n—pace, sight, signals, men, guns, the sea. The sea does it. Men need all their sap to face the sea. You can’t soss down and get into a habit with it. You can’t trust to a prejudice; you got to change your mind and your behavior as quick as a north- east gale. * Well, John—if a man can do a thing when he’s got to—all you have to do is to apply the emergency and take away his props. **1T guess that’s all you or any other English- man needs. ‘This is a soft country and there are a lot of props in it for the well-to-do, and there ain’t many eme rge ncies. So the Eng- lish have got used to saying, ‘That'll do,’ and ‘Don’t bother,’ and ‘It'll probably come out all right without much trouble.’ But the war’s taken away some of the props, and it’s applied a pretty heavy pressure. So I reckon you can do jobs you never thought of now— and follow trails you never heard of—and I’m banking on you to do it satisfactorily.” ELL, I can’t do more than try,” said John reflectively. “Yes, you can,” said Mr. Brett incisively. ““You can succeed. I never had any hanker- ing for an ‘also ran’.” John laughed and Mr. Brett gave a reluc- tant smile. Then he said, “*And now John, there’s one more point we've got to go into, and then I think we’re wound up. I want your help on a point of domestic policy. Before I leave here I want to be sure of one thing—" John turned round and faced him atten- tively. { ” he said, “‘is it about Elise?” — “te to do with Elise,” said Mr. Brett slowly “I want your word, John, never to invite or to accept the offer of a visit from Hermione. She has given me already her word that she will not suggest it, nor accept any such invitation from you or Elise, but Hermione’s words are apt to be fluid. Facts don’t worry her, and people who ain’t worried by facts come through their promises like damp through an outside wall. “Before my mind can be perfectly free I must have a solid word from you, John—and then I'll feel all right.” John flushed painfully. *T really don’t know, sir,” he said awk ward- ly, “that Ican agreeto give it. Of course, I remember that the first part of Hermione’s visit was not a success, and it did seem as 1t Elise was a little overstrained by it. But I am sure now that all those little difficulties were caused by Hermione’s very serious ill health. Now that she is so much better, no one could be a more delightful guest. John paused. Mr. Brett regarded him thoughtfully. “Have you forgotten the lawn-mower, John?” he asked with a sught lift of his heavy brows. “Or Bodger—or—Ypres? I don’t somehow feel as if those incidents were the ordinary symptoms of a disease.” John moved restlessly to the window. “Hermione is very se nsitive,” he said with his back turned. “She felt at a great <lis- advantage when she first came here. She thought I was prejudiced against her. It 1s extraordinary how people will misunde orstand each other under those c ircumstances. “Sure,” said Mr. Brett in a low voice. (Continued on page 134)

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Now active pepsin can be constantly applied. two other great modern requirements. Able authorities have for years recog- nized its merit. So it embodies all that modern dentistry sees need for in a tooth paste. It is believed to do the utmost that a tooth paste can ac- complish. Do this for your sake and your family’s sake. There are few things more important. The damage which film does to teeth is life-long in effect. Cut out the coupon now. Pepsadent The New-Day Dentifrice Now advised by leading dentists. Druggists everywhere are supplied with large tubes. 323 Ten-Day Tube Free THE PEPSODENT COMPANY, Dept. 276, 1104 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Il. Mail 10-Day Tube of Pepsodent to Look in Ten Days Make this ten-day test. Note how clean teeth feel after using. Mark the absence of the slimy film. See how teeth whiten as the fixed film disappears. In ten days let your own teeth tell you what is best. THE MISCHIEF- MAKER (Continued from page 132) “Folks were made to misunderstand each other—but as far as I know, they weren't made to hit out at everyone who don’t take them at their own valuation.” John let this pass. He did not understand what his father-in-law meant, but he knew that he did not wish to understand it. He was thinking of his last talk with. Hermione, and their last talk had been an appeal from Hermione, not to his understanding, but to his emotion, and John did not find it easy to resist appeals to his emotion. “Tt seems to me you are asking a great deal,”’ he said after a pause, ‘‘and more than I ought to promise—at least without her free consent. If Hermione wishes me to promise I will consent to do it, but I couldn't, as it were, do it behind her back.’ “You show remarkably good feeling, John,” said Mr. Brett cordially, “and re- markably poor sense. I've often noticed the way those two things hang together. How- ever, you can send for Hermione and ask her in my presence what she does wish. I guess I'd rather see for myself how she tackles the subject. Sometimes it regulates the way a cat jumps if you’re watching the cat. If you'll touch the bell, we'll ask Humphreys to let the Princess know we'd like to see her.” John obeyed reluctantly. He felt very up in arms about Hermione. He would stand by her whatever happened, even if it meant the loss of his future, but the worst of it was that it would not mean any such sacrifice, and John knew it. Mr. Brett would never recall his generosities. Somehow or other, whether John opposed him or not, he would see that John didn’t lose. It made fighting against Mr. Brett much more difficult when one realized that he attached no penalties to his opponent in the hour of defeat. He was not even put out with John for insisting on the presence of Hermione. Hermione kept them waiting ten minutes. At the end of that time she sailed into the library as if she were leading a procession. She looked every inch a Princess. She wore a dress of a soft black material wonderfully lightened by Venetian point lace. Round her neck was a long string of pearls which fell to her waist. “IT think you want me, Papa,” she said without reproach, but as if it were strange that she had been sent for, and not sought ‘I can’t say that I do,” said Mr. Brett. “Accurately speaking, John wants you; but I’m an interested party. Hermione turned her beautiful lifted head towards John. She smiled at him, as it is possible that martyrs, if they had time to think of it, smiled at their rather cowardly fellow Christians who had not made their unpopular creed too conspicuous. John hesitated and stammered. He drew a chair forward for her, and then stood beside her as if he was there to protect and not to challenge her. “Yes,” he confessed, ‘‘I do want to ask you something. Your father has suggested that I should give him a promise from Elise and my- self—and I am not prepared to do so unless I have your consent. He has asked me not to invite or to accept a visit from you—I gather, for the rest of our lives.” Hermione took it wonderfully. She did not lower her raised chin, or change the benevolent light of her clear gray eyes. She merely looked from one man to the other. John’s eyes were fixed anxiously upon her face, but Mr. Brett regarded without concern, but without appreciation, the points of his patent leather slippers. He did not consider that E nglish servants understood patent leather. “For the rest of our lives?” repeated Hermione. Her voice did not break, but it literally wrung John’s heart. “You quite understand,” he urged, “that I have made no such promise. It has only been put to me as a condition of your father’s going with you to Paris, and what is more, I will not make it without your agreement. Hermione rose to her feet; she gave an WOMEN AS exquisite gesture of mingled surrender and protection in the direction of her father’s unresponsive figure. ank you, John,” she said with heroic fortitude, “for having consulted me. I don’t think we need go into the painfulness of the question—you will know without my speaking of it what it means to me. I must only urge that as far as possible Elise is spared; to put such a decision into her hands would torture her. As far as I am concerned the decision is already made. Since Papa makes it the ex- press condition of our being together, I— consent.” She turned and without faltering walked towards the door. John sprang to open it for her, and as she assed out of it, he took one of her hands in Ris and kissed it. It seemed to him that he had been present at the sacrifice of Iphigenia. He was so moved that he could hardly force himself to return to Mr. Brett. When he spoke to his father-in-law all the friendliness and gratitude had gone out of his voice. ' ‘I should like to know, sir,” he asked cold- ly, ““how I am to explain this extraordinary arrangement to my wife?’ Mr. Brett raised his eves John. “Well,” and looked at he said slowly, ‘‘my way would be not to explain it. Half the trouble in life comes from explanations. When they're honest they hurt, and when they're dishonest, and most explanations are dishonest, they're a waste of breath. “If the question has to come up, you can tell Elise that the arrangement is mine, that you only agreed to it at Hermione’s wish, and that she only agreed to it in order to succor the declining years of her hard-hearted old parent. That lets you out, that lets Her- mione out—I guess that’s all that’s neces- sary.” “The fact remains,” said John inexorably, “chat by your action you deprive Hermione of her sister’s companionship.” “Sure, she can’t have us both,” Brett with a sudden chuckle. ““And Elise can’t have you both, either,”’ said John, ignoring his father-in-law’s un- timely mirth. ‘It’s wonderful how you put two and two together, John,” said Mr. Brett mildly. “But don’t you feel too bad about Elise, you can bring her over to Paris whenever you feel inclined. I don’t want to put up any unneces- sary barriers, and Hermione and I will always be pleased to see you. John was silent. He loved his father-in- law, and he wanted him to justify himself. He waited expectantly for what Mr. Brett might have to say. But Mr. Brett made no attempts at self-justification. He, too, paused a little, but without expectation, and then he recalled John’s attention to the question of the new chrysanthemum. Two days were given over to packing and farewells, then the electric brougham once more drew up to the door, followed by a luggage cart for the Princess’ ten boxes, the French maid and Bichette. Bichette’s in- creasing clamor almost outbarked the ghost of Bichon, if she was not privately reinforced by his spiritual tongue. John and Elise stood at the gate and waved their handkerchiefs until the electric brougham glided in ease and security out of sight. Mr. Brett did not wave; he contented himself with a long grave look at Mambles as if he were running over in his mind some secret inventory. The Princess and the French maid screamed farewells and all the servants, handsomely tipped and generously inclined, stood at the windows appreciatively watching their departure. “‘Tt’s just too wonderful,” said Elise, turning to her husband with sparkling eyes. “I can hardly believe it—and it’s all due to you! You've brought them together just as I al- ways hoped and prayed you would—and oh: John, isn’t it too perfectly lov ely to think that dear Papa has got Hermione?” said Mr. CHARMERS (Continued from page 126) kind to the physical cult of themselves. It is admissible even that, out of an inverted vanity, they do not give as much as they might. But do what they will and leave undone what they will, they cannot lose the essential charm of their sex. And further, they possess a moral and mental equipment of experience and knowledge which infalli- bly adds to the range of their charm, and which, so far as it goes, renders their at- tractiveness as permanent as the attractive- ness of men. For example, their conversa- tion, other things being equal, must have an interesting piquancy which the non-profes- sional woman cannot aspire to achieve. They actually have general ideas! With them, more conversational material presents itself. Conversation becomes more genu- ine, more honest, more invigorating, and less of a time-passing game, subject to con- ventional rules which are irksome to both sides. And if any man says to me that he does not want this kind of conv ersation with his wife, I reply that either he is a highly unusual person or the truth is not in him. Most husbands sitting by their purely do- mestic wives, in the intimate solitude of the domestic evening, can remember mo- ments when they longed for this kind of conversation with a wild, fierce longing. The disadvantage of the purely domestic woman is insipidity. It is a disadvantage which, as the earth continues to revolve, will tend greatly to diminish. Mr. Bennett's next essay, “Are Men Superior to Women?” will appear in May. Persea vee a 67

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— od ayy!) 7 Sy oes the Short-sleeved Afternoon esent this Problem to You? T is admittedly a serious one, but only to that woman who does not know there is now a way to remove hair, without slightest danger of irritation. ITH the unquestioned accept- ance of sleeveless frocks as the season’s mode, and gowns which leave so little to the imagination, the fastidious woman, unable to overcome her instinctively feminine viewpoint of the incongruous blade, and fearful of the severe chemicals of old methods, is confronted with the awkward urgency of discover ing an effective, yet consistent way to remove superfluous hair. It is to her that the following information will be of singular interest : A NEW WAY There is a new and radically different way to remove hair. A way that meets the most exacting requirements of gen- tlewomen, and which is warranted not to irritate the skin, injure the complexion or encourage further growth no matter how frequently one uses it. The name is NEET. A cream lotion; dainty, exquisite, harmless ; which not only removes hair in- stanter, but, in the same operation, bleaches the skin to perfect white- ness. Neet METROPOLITAN ACCEPTANCE Although obtainable at the shops scarcely eight months, it is already the accepted method of smart women in every metropolitan center from New York to San Francisco. To scan the pages of the Social Register is to read a listing of its users. HOW TO USE NEET Neet is strictly ready for service—no mixing. Apply the same as a cold cream, let stand ten minutes and then wash off with clear water. That’s all; the hair will be gone, rinsed away, and the skin left refreshingly cool, smooth and white! WHERE TO OBTAIN NEET At toilet counters in all department and drug stores. Or, by mail direct. Two sizes, 50c and $1.00. The larger size contains three times the quantity of the smaller. Very Special If you cannot obtain NEET at your dealer’s, mail the coupon below with 50 cents for the small size—or $1.00 for the large—and receive your supply by re- turn post, in unmarked wrapper. MAIL THIS COUPON HANNIBAL PHARMACAL CO., 609 Olive Street, St. Louis, Mo. For the enclosed $1.00 send NEET to You apply NEET which is a cream-lo- tion, the same as any other cold cream; per- mit it to remain a few moments, and _ then wash it off with clear water. That is all; the hair will be gone, rinsed away, and the skin left refreshingly cool, smooth and white. A delightful change from old methods, to be sure.

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EERE sprigs ia: = eee SS (‘ _oury the tang and swing of the country urto the city with a Suit of Standware Fersey Cloth- 4 has that sporlsmanlike look of “just-ran-into- town, which marks the socially placed and pedigreed. When you stipulate Sandware’ you discrimurale between the best-Pure Worsted and the rest-poor wool The Standard Garments made of Stanadware Gersey Cloth are sone-view at all fashionable Department Stores ane {pparel Shops The genumne is labeled Standware™ because et Stands Wear [BGRE WORSTED] S: ee FABRICS MADE IN U.S.A RUDOLPH SCHREIBER 1140 Broadwa New York — Above at the left is an adorable chemisette of crisp organdie aud loosely meshed lace. The rather deep cufis are tucked. In the center embroi- dered and ruffled batiste, tied securely at cuff and neck with narrowest black velvet ribbon, is quite fascinating. The last blouse-like chemisetts is of cream net, trimmed with dainty tucks and motifs of heavy lace, CRISP NECKWEAR HAS BECOME THE FASHION IN HE dark day frock with a touch of Tim white at throat and wrist is ever the acme of good style, and with ready ingenuity the designer of these dainty accessories is offering to us this spring lovely trifles in organdie or batiste which are especially adapted to the modes of 1920. Day frocks, we all know, are to fasten down the back once more that is day frocks for the slim and youthful. There- For snart little tricotine bolero tailleurs, there is a vest and deep beit of striped wash satin in white and green. Down the front and around its belt and collar it boasts a narrow plaite d ru file 3 fore round bib-like collars, which open in the back and show effective unbroken lace medallions or motifs in front, are much in demand. Irish lace is especially appropriate for frocks of serge, and one may find many charming collars of batiste with insets of this heavy mesh. Another favorite mode for street wear is the tailleur cut along Eton lines. With it one may wear a broadly belted chemisette of wash silk, plaited and tucked and round- collared, so that it may be in harmony with the jaunty jacket worn over it. White, narrowly striped in blue or red or green, is the favorite material for this useful little waistcoat. Other vestees, there are, of piqué with white porcelain buttons quite inimitable when worn with severe tailored serge, while if one would be positively ultra in one’s severity, there is ever the snowy stock with standing collar of piqué and four-in-hand ends of ribbed Madras. Many taffeta gowns are short of sleeve and open of front this season. A _ batiste chemisette, plaited and collared with scal- loped frilling, adds crisp freshness to these summery day frocks, and to perfect the en- Designs from TIMOTHY F,. CROWLEY MANY DAINTY FORMS semble. deep pendant cuffs of the batiste should be attached to the short taffeta sleeves. A design which is never passé is the turned-back, highly rolling collar of white organdie, outlined with two-inch foot- ing and having matching cuffs. This season the cufts are of five-inch depth and are buttoned at the side with two large Irish crochet ball-buttons. They are pendant, not turned back, thus adding length to the excessively short sleeve and framing the elbow in a becoming fluff of footing.+ The summer tourist could hardly do better than to equip herself with a frock or two of serge and taffeta, and a generous supply of these dainty washable accessories. Appropriately bonnetted, veiled and gloved, she would present always an ensemble oi trim smartness and charm. But heavier fabrics than batiste, madras, and organdie are to be used this season for stocks and ties. One of these trifles dis- plays standing collar and four-in-hand ends, of rich red brocaded satin, with reverse sur- Lovely Irish lace, the sheerest batiste and the daintiest tucking all go to make a chemisette and cufis that may be worn with a short-sleeved frock. Tiny ruffles are added to make it perfection. face of plain white satin. Adjusted, this is unusually smart and becoming, and gives a final note of distinction to severely tail- ored dark blue serge. These are but a few of the season's de- lightful fancies in neckwear. P| =, — Cee eee For a frock cut low and round, there is the collar above at the left of organdie and Irish lace, tucked all about, while for a more tailored day- time frock or suit one prefers a vest of Madras, buttoned severely and collared Eton fashion. The last set would be quite bewitching upon a frock of dark serge for spring, for white linen makes the collar and cuffs and narrow ruffles add the note of decp green that marks the springtime.

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T

Suits & Coats HE distinction of Metropolitan styling,—the tailoring of specialists with a reputation to sustain—the materials that fashion dictates—at a

; ‘ e . ~ . i} 3 S00 SOS Io oO Ooo

Fi Ys

price which spells “utmost value.” VERITE Write for style booklet 11 East 26th St. SOLD BY THE FOLLOWING NEW YORK DEALERS:

ADA, OKLA. Stevens, Wilson Co, ALBANY, GA. Rosenberg Bros. ALTUS, OKLA. Baker & Hanna Bros. AMARILLO, TEN. Montgomery Bros. ANDALUSIA, ALA. Shreve Dept. Stor« ! ANDERSON, IND. | G.W.G

sates ANNAPOLIS, MD. The Fashion ARDMORE, OKLA. | Henry Baum & Co. ATCHISON, KAN. Salzer’s Style Shop ATLANTA, GA. Frohsin’s & CREEK,

M. I. Browm BENNINGTON, VT. A. Drysdale & Son BONHAM, TEX. Graham, Crawford Co. BRISTOL, TENN.-VA. W ood-Nickels Co. BROCKTON, MASS. \ Alexander's Fashion Shop BROOKFIELD, MO. \ Calhoun, Halliburton ». G. Co. \ BROW NWOOD, TEX. | Hemphill-Fain Co. CANTON, OHIO The Seitner Co. ‘APE GIRARDEAU, MO., Buckner, Rags dale Clothing Co. “ARROLLTON, KY. Howe Brothers ‘“ARUTHERSVILLE, MO., The Styleright Shop “EDAR RAPIDS, IA. Martin D. G. Co. ‘“HAMPAITIGN, ILL. W. Lewis & Co. “HARLESTON, S. C. The Kerrison D.G. Co. “HICAGO, ILL. The Best Known Store CINCINNATI, OHIO Mabley & Carew CLARKSVILLE, TENN., D. Judah & Co. COLUMBIA, TENN. The Smart Shop COLUMBUS, MISS. Simon Loeb & Bros, ~ ~ ~ ~

a ~ ~ CRAW FORDS\VILLE, IND.. Louis Bischof Big Store, Inc. CUMBERLAND, MD. Gross Bros. DANVILLE, ILL. Straus & Louis DAVENPORT, LOW A J. H. C. Petersen's Sons Company DECATUR, ILL. Linn & Scruggs D. G. Co. DENISON, TEX. J. W. Madden Co. DETROIT, MICH. Elliott, Taylor, Wool- fenden Co. DUBUQUE, IA. J. F. Stampfer Co. DYERSBURG, TENN, The Style Shop EASTON, PA. Wm. Laubach & Sons ELGIN, ILL. Ackemann Bros. ELMIRA, N.Y. Sheehan, Dean Co. EUGENE, ORE, MeMorran & Wash burn EVANSVILLE, IND. A. P. Lahr & Son FORT SCOTT, KANS. W.J. Calhoun D. G. Co. FULTON, KY. Franklin D. G. Co. FULTON, MO. Tompkins, Christian, Alexander Co. GADSDEN, ALA. Cooney Dry Goods Co. GALESBURG, ILL. O. T. Johnson Co. GLOBE, ARIZ. Old Dominion Com. Co. GONZALES, TEX. The H. & M. Toggery GRAND FORKS, N. D. Alba Howe GREENSBORO, N.C. The Quality Shop GREENVILLE, TEX. Graham-Fagg Co. GREENWOOD, MISS. Fountain’s HATTIESBURG, MISS., The Davidson “Coe. IIELENA, ARK. H. O. Hopkins HOT SPRINGS, ARK. Specialty Shop HUNTSVILLE, ALA. May & Cooney HUTCHINSON, KANS., Pegues, Wright D. G. Co. INDIANAPOLIS, IND., E. O. Langen Co. IOWA CITY, IA. etter’s JACKSON, MISS, La Vogue JAMESTOWN, N. Y. Saxe Bros. Co. JOHNSTOWN, PA. Geo. K. Kline JONESBORO, ARK. Heinemann D. G. Co. JOPLIN, MO. Newman's KEMMERER, WYO. Blyth-Fargo-Hoskins Co KENNETT, MO. Ike Caldwell LA JUNTA, COLO. Taylor & Maxwell LAUREL, MISS. Morehead, Blumer Co, LEXINGTON, KY. Ross Shipp Co. LIMA, OHIO Carter & Carroll LOCKHART, TEX. Baker Dry Goods Co. LUFKIN, TEX. Lufkin Dry Goods Co. MARTINEZ, CAL. I. L. Hilson. MARYVILLE, MO. Harvey L. Haines MEMPHIS, TENN. Bry’s MIAMT, FLA. W. M. Burdines Sons MIDDLETOWN, O. Hirsch's MILWAUKEE, WIS. Espenhains MORRISTOWN, TENN., J. W. Arnold & Co. MT. CARMEL, ILL. J. G. Stansfield’s Sons sQOUTH BEND. IND. MURFREESBORO, TENN., Tatum and Shacklett NASHVILLE, TENN. Lebeck Bros. NAVASOTA, TEX. R. A. Patout Co. NEOSHO, MO. McElhany & Tatum NEWNAN, GA. Kersey & Prather NEW ORLEANS, LA. D. H. Holmes Co., Ltd. NORFOLK, VA. Snyder’s, Inc. NORMAN, OKLA. W.N. Rucker OTTAWA, KANS. The Fashion Shop OTTUMWA, IA. T. Sullivan, Inc. PALESTINE, TEX. Hodge Dry Goods Co.

_ <— WILLIAMSPORT, PA. Brozman’s Woman's Shop YOAKUM, TEX WEATHERFORD, TE PEORIA, ILL P . Baker, Poston . A. Bergner Co, PHILADELPHIA, PA., Strawbridge & Clothier PHOENIX, ARIZ. M. Goldwater & Bros. PITTSBURGH, PA Solomon, Bibro Co. PITTSFIELD, MASS. England Bros. PUEBLO, COLO Pueblo Store Co. RANGER, TEX. The Boston Store READING, PA Dives Pomeroy Stewart RENO, NEV., Gray, Reid and Wright ROCKFORD, ILI W ortham’s ROSWELL, N. MEX. Price & Co. SABETHA, KANS H.C.&C.S. Haines SACRAMENTO, CAL., Hale Bros., Inc. SAGINAW, MICH Seitner Bros. SAN ANGELO, TEX. Baker Hemphill Co. SAN ANTONIO, TEX., The Vogue SAN JOSE, CAL. Appleton & Co. SAVANNAH, GA. Blumberg Bros. SHREVEPORT, LA. Winter Co. SIDNEY, OHIO Wm. Piper & Sons SNYDER, TEX. FE. E. Mathews & Co. WHEELING, W. VA, Geo. M. Snook Co, ©. Hertz YONKERS, N. Y. The Fashion Shop ZANESVILLE, OHIO The H. H. Sturtevant

& 5 alias aes - 2 RL eat, Newman's SPARTANBURG, S. C., Floyd L. Liles Co. SPRINGFIELD, ILL. S. A. Barker Co. SPRINGFIELD, O. The Blogg Co. ST. LOUTS, MO. *“Garland’s—St. Louis” SULPHUR, OKLA. Sulphur D. G. Co. TACOMA, WASH. Rhodes Brothers TAHLEQUAH, OKLA., The Leader TEXARKANA, ARK, Ben F. Smith Dry Goods Co. TROY, ALA. Rosenberg Bros. VINCENNES, IND Wm. Burchfield Co.

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TO-DAY’S NEED for the TOWN MEETING ’ 7 = ’ ‘ hy Mrs. Charles Cary Rumsey’s Article (Continued from page 5¢) time politician dropped a hint: “I guess consider political lines, but only the size of the people down-town don’t believe you the population, its nationalities and its want it very much. If you did, you'd make needs. The ideal number of residents served more noise.” by one Council is, I think, about fifteen The Community Council in that district undertook to get the library. This was just a few months ago. To-day the library established and now the Council, encour- aged by its success, is out to secure other public benefits for their borough. In this instance, it was simply inertia that had kept thousands of people libraryless. There is a movement under way in this same district to secure market terminals for the upper part of Greater New York. This presents a vastly different problem from that of the library. The Borough of the Bronx is a city in itself, Grown up to mam- moth size almost over night, naturally it has outgrown many of its facilities. But the most serious has to do with the food problem, and involved with this is the high cost of living. Because of railroad facili- ties, all market supplies are delivered to terminals established at the lower end of Manhattan long before the Bronx was ever thought of. The Bronx provisioner drives from twenty to thirty miles, whenever he needs new stock. Of course he charges his customer in accordance. This problem has troubled the Borough for a long time. Po- litical campaigns have been waged on it. The Community Council in one district has taken it in hand; but one district cannot win success, for this is a political as well as an economic question, With Councils es- tablished in a majority of districts, all pledged to concentrate on terminals, the re- sult would be, I am sure, just as it was with the library! BY! just what is a Community Council? Broadly speaking, it an effort to stimulate active participation in local pub- lic affairs. It unites the dwellers in speci- fied areas to work for their own civic needs, to become self-governing in the most im- portant things affecting their neighborhood, and to create a community of a In a way it is a revival of the New England town meeting, the backbone of American democracy. We cannot govern the nation by the town meeting, but we can develop the spirit in all large cities by dividing the population or geographical areas into blocks or centers. In Greater New York we have made a beginning by mapping out fifty Councils; not all are organized, however, for this is a work that must proceed slowly. 1s is slow sure growth of any movement, so intimately bound up with the lives and thoughts of a large number of people, is more sure to succeed than any get-quick- results methods. Our methods of procedure are singularly uncomplicated, for the tenet of our faith is that each neighborhood must work out its own salvation. The parent body has head- quarters in the Municipal Building, and here we work out the various methods of approaching our problem. Field workers from headquarters, having made a survey of a district, go about among the people in an effort to stimulate an interest in commu- nity conditions, or this may be done through the churches, the schools, the local Red Cross chapters, or perhaps a lodge. The next thing in order is the appointment of a promoting committee representing the neigh- borhood which meets with our leaders to discuss plans for the formation of a Coun- cil. The committee then sends out general invitations for a neighborhood mass meet- ing, at which the framework is presented, and the election of a government committee undertaken. After each Council has _be- come organized, it elects two delegates to the City Parliament of Councils, which meets once a month in the City Hall. From the beginning, it is impressed upon the people that, when a Council is formed, they must run it themselves. We supply no permanent assistance, financial or other- wise, after the organization is in working order. Of course it would be a compara- tively simple thing to plant a group of paid organizers in a center and tell them to run things as they pleased. But this would de- feat our purpose. Neighborhood spirit can only be roused by neighbors themselves. The question of finance is illustrative of the real spirit back of our members, for we have never been called upon to give money to any of our Councils. If a neighborhood wants anything badly enough, its residents will be found willing to work and pay for getting it. Membership dues may be only twenty-five cents a year; they cannot be more than two dollars. The parent body, however, is always in the background ready to give suggestions and advice and also to help out when things go wrong. But every effort is — to encourage each community to stand alone. In mapping out our districts we do not thousand, . This does not mean that these fifteen thousand belong to the Council that would indeed be ideal! But it means that lines are drawn roughly about an area holding this number, and each head of a family is called upon and urged to join with us. We have Councils of five hundred members; we also have them of two hun- dred; but, whatever the size, they represent their neighbors, and when local measures are up for general discussion, mass meetings are called to which the whole community is invited. On questions of great moment, when it important that every one be reached, petitions are sent to the heads of every family, for the welfare of a neighbor- hood depe nds upon the active cooperation of everyone in it. Is ACH district Council decides the objec- tives it wishes to attain. The thorough- ly organized group appoints representatives to study municipal government as it affects their own neighbors; they attend hearings of the Board of Aldermen and the Board of Estimate; they also keep themselves gen- erally informed as to the work of the police, street cleaning, and other civic departments in their separate relations to the neighbor- hood. The Committee reports to the Coun- cil, which then decides what action, if any, shall be taken. As different sections of the city present different problems, there much divergence in programs, but practical- ly every Council includes Public Health, Recreation Centers and the reduction of the high cost of living among its objectives. The theory of Community Councils is not that the neighborhood should finance the building of health centers or play- grounds, but that it must arouse public in- terest to the point where the neighborhood will insist upon having these “public utili- ties” established by the city. We were much encouraged in our fight against disease, when the State Reconstruction Commission re- ported to Governor Smith that it favored community health centers supported in part by the State. The centers are planned with special emphasis on the reduction of mor- tality of children under six years, but will include infant welfare, parental, dental, tu- berculous, and general medical clinics. ‘here is a great interest in the present cost of living, and several of our Councils are experimenting with cooperative buying with a view to reducing prices; and while they may not achieve desired results, they will at least learn something of cooperation. In order to keep in touch with our mem- bers, each Council makes a_ weekly or monthly report to headquarters. These re- ports are analyzed, and, when a Council shows signs of weakness, we send an or- ganizer to survey the field and lend a hand to tide over the rocky places. HE intensive work of the Social Unit is accomplishing worthwhile things in Cin- cinnati. The Unit was founded by Mrs. Willard Straight in 1916 and has been in ac- tive operation for two years in the big Ohio city. Taking over one district witha crowded residential center and amid small business and factory edges, an almost complete com- munity government is being evolved. Di- viding their field into blocks arbitrarily and not considering street boundaries, the or- ganizers called upon each block to elect an Is agent or leader. These leaders form a working executive committee, each member of which is responsible for her block. Local civic and health conditions are studied by each leader, whose first task was to make a house-to-house survey of her district. In one instance alone this intensive sur- vey proved its value and pointed to great future possibilities: It is a city law that all cases of tuberculosis be reported to the Board of Health. There were fifteen cases of this plague on record from this district In the family-to-family canvass, one hun- dred and fifty well-advanced cases were found. The leaders, being themselves ot the people and neighbors, were able to get information hidden from official inspectors. In organizing the neighborhood class groups were formed, and first of all the doc- tors were asked to form themselves into a group to map out a public health program The Unit made no suggestions as to how they should proceed, but simply told them that here was a job for them, if they could devote time to assume it. Nearly every doctor in the district belongs to the group, and their program as finally formulated has increased the standard of health of the dis- trict by several degrees. Then the minis- ters, trained nurses, teachers and business men were invited to form groups, for there (Continued on page 148)

Page 151

GROPING FOR BEAUTY Self-satisfaction is twin brother to the pea-cock. Whatever is done can be done better. The will is the first essential. The means is secondary. Many women go through life with a hazy idea, a vague sort of a feeling that their appearance might be more attractive. But they never energize the idea. They never cross the boundary which divides desire from will. They flounder about in an ener- vating uncertainty, with souls half-awake, grope and grope for Beauty. Oh, how I wish I could grasp the composite of this type of woman by the shoulders to impress her, with gruffness, if gentleness would not suffice, that mere wishing and sighing will not bring down beauty from heaven like manna. The Will to be Beautiful and the Means to be Beautiful: Re- member these two. The one.-rests with you and you alone; the other you will receive from me. | have just returned from a visit to my London and Paris houses. With gladdened heart | saluted some of my former correspond- ents, advisers and co-workers in the arts of beauty. Others, no longer mortal hand could reach. Do not think for a moment that the science of beauty has been allowed to sink into insignificance during the war. It is astonishing how many new things have been developed; old things improved. The difficulty still lies in the supply, but | am overcoming it grad- ually, and | am ready for you: You, who still grope for beauty, and You who well determined already know the way. fielere fhevin Price, $2.00, $3.50 and $7.00. The joint y use of these specialties is preferable, but and new life to the faded complexion not absolutely essential. Return of the will be the reward of every user of trouble is better guarded against that Valaze Beautifying Skinfood. It is, in- way. deed, all but equal to an insurance policy on Complexion Beauty. Owing to its uniquely firm consistency it is the most economical Beauty preparation in existence. Price, $1.25, $2.50 and $7.00. The Complexion Long life to the Exquisite good complexion Wrinkles No bland, inactive The Nightmare creams are sufficient to relieve them. Valaze Beautifying Skinfood, being an active, stimulating preparation, is heartily recommended, Protect _Ill effects of cold, wind, Your Skin dust or sun will be un- known to you, if you rub into your skin some Valaze Balm Rose or Valaze Sun and Windproof Creme. Quite a number of American Doughboys have learned from their English brothers in arms, as these have from English nurses, to use the Sunproof Creme to prevent sun blistering in the high altitudes of the Alps. Price of each, $1.75, $3.50 and up. Blackheads To remove blackheads, Open Pores to cleanse and stimulate the skin, to bring about its refinement by closing unduly open pores to nor- mal, as well as to relieve oiliness of the skin, nothing will prove more ef- fective than Valaze Blackhead and Open Pore Paste. Price, $1.10, $2.20, $3.30 and up. For more obstinate condition Blackhead and Open Pore Paste No. 2 is recommended. Price, $2.50, $5.00 and up. Joint use of either of these should be made with Valaze Liquidine, which subdues “Shine” of the skin and red- hess, generally promoting circulation. but Eau Verte or Eau-qui-pique (Price, $3.00, $6.00 and $11.00 each) should be used as powerful rejuvenants together with Anthosoros (Price, $1.75, $3.50 and up) which should be applied as a neces- sary calmative. As a wrinkle preven- tive, never be without Valaze Beauti- fying Skinfood, and Valaze Skin-toning Lotion. Price of latter, $1.25, $2.50 and $5.50. Aids to Valaze Whitener covers dis- Beauty coloration of the skin, and is invaluable for giving a delightful ap- pearance to the throat, hands and arms. It will not rub off, and is for that rea- son unexcelled. Although rendering the skin white, it will not leave traces of white on men’s coats when dancing or when acting in tender scenes on the stage. Price, $1.25, $3.00 and $5.00. Valaze Lip Lustre for pale, parched lips. Price, $1.00, $1.75, $3.50 and up. Valaze Complexion Powder, for normal or moist skins, and Novena Poudre, for dry skins. Price, $1.00. $1.50, $2.50, $3.50 and $5.50 each. All shades. Whenever possible Madame Helena Rubinstein should be consulted personally and treatments should be taken at her exquisitely and scientifically equipped establishments in New York, London or Paris. Mme. R ubinstein answers all letters of inquiry in person and forwards her instructive literature on request accompanied by postage. As soon as life in Russia and Turkey will have returned to anything like normal the Petrograd and Constantinople es- tablishments will be opened. Mme. Helena Rubinstein 46 West 57th Street, New York London—Paris SYDNEY—MELBOURNE ATLANTIC CITY, N. J. . . . . . +». 1427 Boardwalk CHICAGO, ILL. . . Mlle. Lola Beekman, 30 Michigan Ave. SAN FRANCISCO, Miss Ida Martin, 177 Post St. & Grant Ave. NEW ORLEANS, LA. Mrs. C. V. Butler, 8017 Zimplie St. BOSTON, MASS. E. T. Slattery Co. 139

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elding’s Silk Classics color—it’s a new silk —Beld- ing’s changeable Nancette. Itwas designed for that fast increasing group of women who have found in Belding beauty and durability a satisfying answer to their fashion needs. BELDING BROTHERS & CO. New York -labrics - Spool 3 SHIMMERY sheen, a glint of SILKEN FABRICS THAT OOL, flax and cotton have each their W wi charm and potent value. From personal uses and household economy they could not possibly be spared; but in modern life silk, sumptuous or sim- ple, assumes a réle fully as important. American silks we have had for decades, excellent silks, but the highest elaborations of design, texture and color we had left to the older civilizations, until a threatened famine drove us to the ambitious enter- prise of producing these ourselves. And we have produced them! They are to be found, if one will but investigate, on many well-known retail counters of our great cities. The assortment is a varied one. The woman who is captivated by the piquant little Chinese hats, which are now being shown by many of the smartest milliners, will be strongly drawn to a striking fabric with background of black satin and a wheel design of Mongolian blue and gold with hints of rose. The wheels are from four to five inches in diameter, but this need not frighten her, for are not most fabric designs of mammoth dimension this spring? They are set closely together, these mystic wheels, and in the interstices are seen the immortal pheenix and the allegorical flying-fish. Every joy should attend the wearer of these sym- bols of good fortune. Equally decorative are the silks of Por- tuguese inspiration. Against a rich creamy background yellow birds alight on scarlet tulips; asters, red, blue and mauve tem- pered with green foliage bloom against an earth-brown setting; a scroll of turquoise blues and greens twists and winds over a deep plum ground. There is an ecclesiasti- cal suggestion, and one learns that they were inspired by priestly embroideries. A great triumph for designer, weaver and dyer is a roll of green brocade, the repro- duction of a sixteenth-century Venetian silk. It is a monochrome, and the design a huge conventionalized flower with its attendant foliage. The tone is verdant with a very slight bluish cast, and one exclaims at its rich beauty and antique spirit. And this bit of Renaissance loveliness was actually woven on New England looms! By its side the attendant places a length of the orig- inal silk from which it was copied. The texture and design are identical, but the upper surface of the Venetian fabric is yel- lower than that of the American produc- tion: four centuries of golden Italian sun- shine have sunk into its shimmering threads. The attendant reverses the two lengths and lo, they are absolutely identical in color as well as in design and texture! Cut velvets are here as well as brocades. One with background of old gold satin and close circular design of rich repoussé black is superb. Fully gathered as a. cape-like wrap it would be regally beautiful, particu- larly if collared with dark sables. Last of all, ravishing brocades, after French inspiration, are displayed. One bit is in faint tea-rose pinks and yellows. On one side a yellow rococo scroll accepted with clusters of roses twists and twines over a pink surface; on the reverse a pink trellis and blossoms are supported by a background of yellow. Beauty. we can but concede, is immortal. The textile triumphs of the classic past, the Renaissance and regency have come to life again in vibrant America. HE seers of antiquity prayed that the battling nations might transform their shields into plowshares and their spears into pruning-hooks. The ingenious modernist has within the twinkling of an eye achieved, —well, perhaps not just this feat, but one startlingly like it: he has converted tons of urmy cartridge silk into dress fabrics. Thousands of yards were on the hands of the nation when the war came to its abrupt FOR SUIT OUR NEWEST FASHIONS THE SPRING end, And now through skilful handling it is to be purchased over the drygoods counters of our cities in a diversity of colors and designs. It is quite ideally adapted to many uses. Light in weight, extremely soft and supple, closely woven and with slightly and irregu- larly knotted surface, it is a perfect fabric for summer motor cloaks or —_ fa. In white and natural linen color, is ex- tremely modish, and in two Sines new shades of warm brown—wigwam and moc- casin—it suggests the life of the woods. Deep rose and vivid blue are other colors to be found in this delightful material and are especially suitable for little suits, smocks and rompers. Since the most care- fully guarded children do manage every now and then to play with fire, the non- inflammable quality of this silk is a reas- surance to nervous parents. Cartridge silk, soft as it is, is an excel- lent foundation for embroidery. One treat- ment is very effective: inch-wide stripes of eyelet embroidery run lengthwise over a white cartridge surface, leaving intervening spaces some six inches in width. This would make an exceedingly smart casino gown, for the great couturiers are design- ing for spring and summer many formal daytime models in broadly striped fabrics. Here in the Garden of Silks, glistening in the spring sunshine, is a new silk blos- som just bursting into bloom. The gar- dener calls it Klimax Satin. You will note its crépy “petals” and its brilliant lustre. And when Dame Fashion comes along to gather it for her needs, in its various color harmonies, you will find that its beauty will make an even stronger appeal. She will adapt it to her out-door costumes, for it promises service as well as beauty; and she will use it equally much for her more formal frocks—in the dark tones for the dresses with which we delight to wear furs in spring, and in the lighter shades for af- ternoon and evening gowns. Another of the new silk blooms is of rather aquatic growth, or so one would judge from its name—Fisher-maid—but its use is decidedly earthly. It too serves fashion in many capacities, for it may be draped to give the desired bouffancy of the hour—a bouffancy subtly suggested rather than boldly accomplished by aid of reed and crinoline, or it may be adapted in tunic fashion to retain the straight, long-line sil- houette that is ever dear to the heart of the American woman. Of sturdier growth is the heavily ribbed bloom known as Newport Cord. Its glori- ous lustre and deep ribbing make it an ideal fabric for the out-door suit that takes to itself tailored lines. It has been bloom- ing continuously and successfully at Palm Beach, heralding its popularity for spring- time in the North. Of the sheer stuffs, there is that filmy fabric so alluring in its glimmering trans- parency that it may well be dubbed the stuff that dreams are made of—Dream Crépe. The metallic shimmer in the overlay plaid distinguishes it from all other sheer silks, and yet it bears a close family resemblance to Indestructible Voile and Indestructi- ble Crépe. Like them, it makes good the name, and though cobwebby as the dew on Nature’s blooms, it is as strong as broad- cloth , Truly inspired were the silk makers who revived as a dress fabric the Jersey weave in silk. Certainly nothing could be more perfect for general wear in a climate such as ours, where for six months of the year the thermometer may mount at any mo- ment to feverish heights and there remain for hours. Clad in this cool, porous-ma- terial, one may shed one’s outer wrap an feel and look appropriately garbed for the most unexpected blast of torrid weather. (Continued on page 142)

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S, esi gio OORT a ' AT HER 2 5 tla st ed a é “a Pes _lemplar lop Valve Motor Five Passenger Touring . . . $2685 Two Passenger Touring Roadster $2685 Four Passenger Sportette . . $2685 Five Passenger Sedan . . . . $3585 Prices f. o. b. Cleveland

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a INCE the day of their inception the demand for Templar Cars has exceeded the supply. The inherent advantages and economies or the small car, combined with the super- fine quality of construction, has naturally resulted in a degree of popularity which makes it desirable to place your order now if you would avoid disappointment at the time you would wish delivery. THE TEMPLAR MOTORS CORPORATION 2900 HALSTEAD STREET, LAKEWOOD, CLEVELAND, O. The Pioneer Builders of Quality Small Cars

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A silk house in New York has the fabrics above. The one at the left is of glossy silvery green, patterned with stripes of soft rose and dull green roses. The middle brocade is vivid with red and green stripes, and the last a hand- some brocade holds brilliant peacocks and foliage upon its rich, dull surjace- SILKEN FABRICS FOR THE SPRING THAT SUIT OUR NEWEST FASHIONS (Continued from page 140) Crystalknit is the refreshing name of one of these flexible fabrics. It is to be had in plain Jersey weave, in weights both light and heavy, and in the darker colors it is quite periect for summer street frocks and even wraps. Again one finds it with a drop- stitch stripe at one-inch intervals, an effect which is strikingly smart one of the leading couturiers is using this striped ‘rystal-knit in midnight blue for street s, made after the long-waisted mode the eighties. Used lengthwise, the fabric lends length and slimness to the figure, while draped about the hips and knotted in the back as a sash, it is ex- tremely graceful. Many are the diversities of Sylvanette, both in design and tone. It is especially suitable for sports frocks, blouses and scarfs, since it is broadly striped, or strik- ingly block-checked, One length shows an inch-wide satin stripe of drop-stitch against a background of plain Jersey weave. Soft rose, delicate maize, strong cobalt, walnut brown and gray are among the many colors in which this delightful fabric comes, and it is to be had as well in combinations of blue and white, brown and white, green and white—but the array is legion. A block check in black and white Syl- vanette is unutterably smart, when used as the skirt of a plain black jacket and as accompanying scarf and cap, for the Egyp- tian furror gives an especial fashion value just now to even black and white checks or to even black and white stripes. A material combining artificial with real silk threads, and known as Cordillé, is quite ideal for golf-course, motor-boat or tennis- court. It gives the effect of a close basket weave and is especially lustrous and lovely in white; moreover, it has an attribute which makes it well-nigh invaluable—it is uncrushable and unwrinkleable! It is to be found in corded as well as basket effect. In two tones, white and turquoise, for example, it is charming. The two strands—artificial and real silk —are interwoven to form another fabric known as Chimerai, which is the embodi- ment of richness, especially in the darker tones. In téte-de-négre it is truly superb; the invisible broken stripe forming a huge self toned check which is smart distinction. One may revel this season in silken rib- bons as well as in silken dress fabrics, for they are here in lusciousness of color and exquisiteness of texture. So many of the spring costumes show ribbon girdles, ap- plied frankly in sash fashion with butterfly loops and floating streamers, that the modish woman is eagerly looking about her for lovely sash ribbons for her summer uses. Foremost comes black moire, soft in quality and of ten-inch width. It will girdle many a one-piece frock of serge, as well as many a summery foulard, especially those which show a black design against a ground of color, or vice-versa. Broad brown satin sashing is here, just the touch that the brown-and-white printed foulard requires to give it charm and accent. Incidentally this combination, brown and white, is to have a leading place in smart spring wardrobes. One sash strip of rich soft taffeta sel- vaged with satin cheers the heart. It is of deepest, freshest jacquimenot rose-red— need one say more! It might form a double back panel, ex- tending from nape of neck to satin heels; one seems to see it bloused generously just below the waist-line. If used as full rose ruching, its rich tones and satin edges would lend a Parisian air to a simple frock of contrasting fabric but matching color. Truly the American silk merchants in their endeavor to meet an industrial and national problem have made the world their debtor—they have produced fabrics of rare beauty and real fashion value. Above at the left @ marvelous Portuguese embroidery is used for a gown, Faded reds, dull green and here and there a touch of vivid blue give it its won- derjful color, and its background is deep cream. The last figure wears a bouf- fant skirt of rich soft rose brocade, patterned after the fashion of Louis XV.

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Baker “SHOES FOR WOMEN 6° HE low shoe that fits to perfection—under the arch, at the instep and heel—so trig and easeful on your feet that you feel ten pounds lighter— doesn’t that kind of shoe make you feel at peace with the world and your dressmaker? There are such shoes, made for particular women by Baker of Brooklyn. They do fit to perfection—and so many women have discovered it that Baker Shoes can be sold at moderate prices considering their unquestioned quality. You can get “Quality without Extravagance” in a Baker Shoe at some store near you. May we tell you where? “Quality without Extravagance—Style without Experiment’ GEORGE W. BAKER SHOE COMPANY Classon Avenue, BROOKLYN, New York City LLL Up

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ry * ty ! Ae ~ 5 ee ly “~ é af ; " R f : i t + hi Wu i " — Vt F “\ yay, \ VA Ay! F = —_ Ms a P x : ” 4 ri ees | , oat « —_fan Ba —— A drapery suggestion by Grace R. Wilmot showing the use of Lace Day Shades of Quaker Sectional Craft-Lace as a glass covering with an overdrape of soft silk T here Are Two Sides To A Lace Curtain { UST as there are two sides to parency of fabric, as in no way to gy your window, so the modern mar or obscure your view of the - drapery vogue demands there beauty of country lawns or the be two sides to your window-lace. action of city streets. The side presented to the pub- _ Difficult qualities to combine lic looking at your window must in a single fabric? show a delicate and delightful de- Certainly! But ideally pre- sign giving a hint of your individ- sented in Quaker Craft-Lace. uality, yet effectively screening w your rooms from curious eyes. P. S. “Concerning Window The side presented to you and Draping”, a booklet showing the your family as you look through very latest window treatments the window must be of such trans- sent upon request. QUAKER LACE COMPANY PHILADELPHIA * Note:—The word Curtain is used in its broad sense denoting window-lace in any form. (_)UAKER CRAFT-LACE THE MARK OF LACE-CRAFTSMANSHIP 144

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HE makers of the Chalmers have produced a series of closed cars noticeable for their distinction and in- dividuality. The rare combination of elegance and good taste is evident to a marked degree in the Chalmers Sedan. CHALMERS MOTOR CAR CO., DETROIT CHALMERS MOTOR CO. OF CANADA,LTD., WINDSOR, ONT.

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Ode KID The Leather for Fine Shoes Without a Flaw HE texture of Vode Kid is pleasing alike to the eye and the touch. The grain of this leather is kept uniform by the thorough care exer- cised in tanning and dyeing the choicest kid skins from the world’s markets. Shoes of Vode Kid have a place in the wardrobe of every woman who seeks to be cor- rectly dressed. Vode Kid is found in all shades dictated by fashion and good taste. Remember that the smooth texture of Vode Kid is only one of the Vode Goodnesses. Permit your dealer to show you boots or slippers of Vode Kid to harmonize with your - new costume. Popular shades are Chippendale Chestnut, Camel, Blue, Gray, and Black. Ask for shoes of Vode Kid Standard Kid Manufacturing Co., Boston, Mass Branches in Principal Cities VW

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Serve from the 100 pack age. A liberal supply best be-speaks your spirit of generous hospitality. Plain Corh “They are good taste” gabe Ne

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& Ohe Ohence Bottle Ain ‘ars REG. U.S. PAT OFF , ed Soired. CDi fam LAmusette Rubdre LAmudetle> Prudbre Goilette Amusette Ciau de Ooilette LAmudelle D Savon LAmudeltte GCréme CAmusette a7, Rlite Amudette -A miniature container with small packages Of. SL arfum, Poudre anb Savon LAmuselte will be sent to any address on receipt of) fifty cents. CSihoarnd- Pirfumeur Netrvit ULA

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SSS SSS SSS SSS SSS SSS SSS SSS SS SESE SS SSS SRS SSS SESS SSS SSS SSSR SESS SSSR SCR SSC ee Se Furniture for Every Home —for large houses and small houses — for apartments and bungalows — everything, from bird cages to a mansion, may be selected readily from Paine’s virtually unlimited collections. Rose, putty and black is the color scheme of this inviting sun room in the Field residence, Brockton, Mass., recently fur- nished and decorated by Paine’s. More about the furniture, rugs, draperies and lamps in this in- teresting room will be mailed to those planning to build or refur- nish this spring. Paine Furniture Company of Boston Interior Decorators and Makers of Fine Furniture for 85 Years More than a Store—A National Institution PS SSSR SSE ESSE SESE S ERE ESSE SSSR SEES SESE REESE THRE RRS Oe ee eee ee This illustration shows how the diamonds from four old pieces of jewelry were artistically remounted in the brooch shown just above them WE OFFER SUGGESTIONS AND SUBMIT ORIGINAL DESIGNS FOR REMOUNTING DIAMONDS Send for book showing work we have done for other customers DANIEL LOW & CO. Salem, Mass. 200 Town House Sq. Jewelers for 50 years Ob Shag oo _ FIFTH AVENUE at 401m ST NEW YORK Tas ALO1L dw» from = 2 : ae : LUtS and Ctlmerica Gypucal of those which have established cALCC 1g : (reatige SUITS COATS - GOWNS DAY ann EVENING - WRAPS BLOUSES :-HATS FURS AND ACCESSORIES = Washington Crcin nate ) Lhiladelphia

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of nutriment about three chops. 5 1-2c For Quaker Oats 70c For Eggs The oat is the food of foods. It is almost the ideal food in balance and completeness. It isrich in mineralswhich growing children need. Asa vim-food it has age-old fame. Well-advised mothers know that Quaker Oats forms the supreme food on which to start the day. What Ic Buys A large dish of Quaker Oats A bite of meat A bit of fish One-fifth an egg One-half slice bacon One muffin A taste of peas A small potato That 35 cents buys six or seven eggs at this writing—about 500 calories. “ae ee 45c For Average Meat For Peas No Food Like Oat Food Each 35c Compare What You Get A 35-cent package of Quaker Oats contains 6221 calories, the energy measure Or Quaker Oats, on this basis, costs about one-tenth what meats, fish and eggs cost on the average. That is, you buy ten times as many calories for each dime you spend You can serve five dishes of Quaker Oats for about the cost of one egg, or twelve dishes for about the cost of a chop. Consider what that means in your breakfasts. Cost per 1,000 Calories Based on Prices at This Writing For Potatoes Then why not always serve this master dish at breakfast? Why not cut the cost of that meal, and use the saving for costlier foods at dinner? There was always great reason for serv- ing oats, but never such reasons as exist today. Queen Grains Only Get Quaker Oats for quality and flavor. It is flaked from queen grains only—just the rich, plump, flavory oats. We get but ten pounds from a bushel. If you want the oat dish popular, give it this Quaker flavor. 15c and 35c per package Except in the Far West and South Packed in Sealed Round Packages with Removable Cover 3315 THE ANCHOR TO YOUTH E. F. Benson’s Story (Continued from page 61) was not She was still slender and brisk in movement, her black hair was quite un- touched with gray, the fine oval of her face was still firm and unwrinkled, and her eyes, still dancing with the fire that might have been expected only to smoulder nowadays, were perfectly capable of fulfilling their pur- poses unaided. She had made.an attempt a few years ago to wear large tortoise-shell spectac- les, and that dismal failure occurred to her now. a HAVE tried to meet middle-age half- way,” she said, “‘but middle-age won’t come and meet me! I can’t really see the old hag on the road even yet. Do you remember my spectacles? That was a serious expedition in search of middle-age, but it did no good. I always forgot where they were, and sat down on them with faint fatal crunches. Then Jack didn’t like them; he said he would never have married me if he had known I was going to get old so soon, and he always hid them when he found them lying about, and he gave me an ear-trumpet for a birthday present. David used to like them; that was the only purpose they served. He used to squeal with delight if he got hold of them, and run away and come back dressed up like Mummie.” “IT am lost without spectacles,” said Edith. “But I’m not, darling; it was my spec- tacles that were always lost. And thea I like rainbows and conjuring-tricks and putting pennies on the line for the train to go over, and bare feet and chocolates. I do like them; there’s no use in pretending that I don't. Be- sides, David would find me out in no time. I couldn't pretend not to be excited when we have put our pennies on the line, and hear the Great Northern Express whistle as 1t passes through Winston on the way to our pennies. That's why it rushes all the way from London to Edinburgh, to go over our pennies. And we've got a new plan: you would never guess. We gum the pennies on the line and so they can't jump off, but all the wheels go over them, and they get hot and flat like pancakes. I like it! I like it!” cried Dodo. Edith had finished tea, and was waiting, rather severely, for a pause. ‘But that’s not all of you, Dodo,” she said; “there is a piece of you that’s not a child. I want to talk to that.” Dodo nodded at her. “Yes, I know it’s there,” she said, “and we shall come to it in time. Of course, if I only thought about pennies on the line and conjuring tricks I should be in my second childhood, and well on the way to preserving all my faculties like the poor things in bath- chairs. You see, David is mixed up so tre- mendously in these games: I don’t suppose I should go down to the line five minutes before vhe six-o’clock express passed through and put pennies there if it wasn’t for him. I was forty-five when he was born; so you must 1iake allowances for me. You don’t know what that means any more than I know what artistic triumphs mean. Oh, I forgot: I did know that. David's away, didI tell you? He went away to-day to pay,a round of visits with his nurse. He is going to visit the dentist first and then the bootmaker, and then he’s ‘going on’ to stay with Nadine for the night. That’s the round, and he comes back to- morrow, thank God! Where were we when you got severe? Oh, I know. You said there was a piece of me which wasn’t entirely ab- surd, and you wanted to talk to that. But it’s ever so difficult to disentangle one piece of you from all the rest.” “T)RAWERS!” said ‘Edith relentlessly. “You must have drawers in your mind with handles and locks. You can unlock one, if you want what’s inside it, and pull it out by its handle. When you've finished, push it back and lock it again. That certainly is one of the things we ought to have learned by this time. I have, but I don’t think you have. All your drawers are open simultaneously, Dodo. That’s a great mistake, for you go dabbing about in them all, instead of being occupied with one. You don’t concentrate!” She suddenly relented. “Oh, Dodo, go on!” she said. “I’m having a delicious holiday. You always appear to talk utter nonsense, but it suits me so admir- ably. I often think your activity is a fearful waste of energy, like a waterfall in a salmon- river which might have been making elec- tricity instead of running away. And then quite suddenly there appears a large fat sal- mon leaping in the middle of it, all shiny and fresh from the sea. Don't let us concentrate; let’s have all the drawers open and turn out everything on to the floor. I don’t grow old any more than you do inside, in spite of my raddled, kippered face and bones sticking out like hat-pegs. I am just as keen as ever, and just as confident that I’m going to make Bach and Brahms and: Beethoven turn in their graves. I hear there was a slight subsidence the other day over the grave of one of them; it was probably my last concert in Berlin that was the real cause of it. But I’ve kept young because all my life I have pursued one thing with grun persistence, and always known | was going to catch it. I haven't had time to grow old, let alone growing middle-aged, whicb is so much more tragic!” _ ‘Oh, middle age is rapidly growing ex- tinct,” said Dodo, “and we needn't be afraid of catching tt nowadays. When we were young, people of our age were middle-aged. They wouldn't drain life to the dregs and then chuck the goblet away and be old. They kept a little wine in it still and sipped it on special occasions. They lay down after lunch and took dinner-pills to preserve their fading energies. Now, we don’t do that; as long as we have an ounce of energy left we use it, as long as there is a drop of wine left we drink it. The moment I cease to be drunk with any spoonfuls of youth that remain to me,” said she, with great emphasis, ‘‘I shall be a total abstainer. As long as the sun is up it shall be day, but as soon as it sets it shall be night. There shall be no long-drawn sunsets and dis- gusting afterglows with me. When I’ve fin- ished I shall go ‘pop,’ and get into my bath- chair till 1'm wheeled away into the family vault And all the time at the back of my atrophied brain will be the knowledge of what a lovely time I have had. That’s my plan, anyhow.” Dodo had got quite serious and absently dipped the last two or three strawberries into her tea-cup, imagining apparently that it con- tained cream. “You're different,’ she said; “you can achieve definite projections of yourself in music; you can still create, and as long as anybody creates she is not old. Stretching out—that’s what youth means. I daresay you will write some new tunes and go to play them in Heliogland in the autumn. That’s your anchor to youth, your vower of creation. I’ve got no anchor of that kind; I’ve only got some fish-hooks, so to speak, consisting of my sympathy with what is young, and my love oi what is new. But when you blame me for having all my drawers open, there I disagree. It is having all my drawers open that stands between me and the bath-chair. But, my dear, what pitfalls there are tor us to avoid, if we are to steer clear of being terrible grizzly kittens!” “Such as?” asked Edith. “The most obvious is one so many sprightly old things like us fall into, namely, that of at- taching some young man to their hoary old selves. There’s nothing that makes a woman look so old as to drag about some doped boy, and there’s nothing that actually ages her so quickly. I never fell into that mistake, and I’m not going to begin now. It is so easy to make a boy think you are marvelous; it’s such a cheap success, like spending the season at some second-rate watering-place. No more flirting for us, darling! Of course every girl should be a flirt; it is her business to at- tract as many young men as possiole, and then she chooses one and goes for him for all she’s worth. That is Nature’s way; look at the queen-bee.”’ *“Where?” said Edith, not quite following. ““Anywhere,”’ continued Dodo, not trou- bling to explain. “And then again every right-minded boy is in love with several girls at once, and he chooses one and the rest either go into a decline or marry somebody else, usually the latter. But then contrast that nice, clean way of doing things with the ma- ture, greasy barmaids of our age, smirking over the counter at the boys, and, as I said, doping them. What hags! How easy to be a hag! I adore boys, but I won’t be a hag.” | Dye broke off suddenly from these re- markable reflections and adjusted her hat before the looking-glass. “They are older than the rocks they sit among, as Mr. Pater said,’ she remarked. “Let us go out, as Jack doesn’t seem to be coming. His tennis-shoes fit you beautifully, and so does my tea-gown. Do you know, it happens to be ten minutes to six, so that if we walk down across the fields, on to the railway- cutting, we shall get there in time for the ex- press. One may as well go there as anywhere else. Besides, David put the gum-bottle and our last pennies inside the piano, and thought it would be lovely if I gummed them down to- night, as if he were here. That’s really un- selfish; if I were away and David here, I should like him not to put any pennies down tillI came home. But David takes after Jack. Come on!” The roses round the house were in full glory of June, but the hay-fields down, which they skirted on their way, were more to Dodo's mind. She had two selves, so Jack told her, the town-self which delighted in crowds and theatres and dances and sniffed the reek of fresh asphalt and hot pavement with relish, and the country-self which preferred the wild rose in the hedge and the ox-eyed daisies and buttercups that climbed upward through the growing grasses to the smooth lawn and the (Continued on page 148)

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OLLEo R ITE OATS wer Each 35c Compare What You Get \ L pre ) i) Cost per 1,000 Calories Based on Prices at This Writing 45c 50c 54¢ llc bor Egg For I For Potatoes No Food Like Oat Food , The oat the foodo On lt ilmost Ther why not alwavs serve this thet od lame pleten master dish at breakfast Why oat It isrich in miner \ childre cut the cost of that meal, and use the ed. A \ i t ze-old tam ving for costlier foods at dinner Wel ed r I w tl There was always great reason for serv ) r 0) { t pre e fou Ing outs, but ver such reasons exist \) | What Ic Buys Ua ex | A large dish of Quaker | Oats A bite of meat A bit of fish One-fifth an egg One-half slice bacon One muffin A taste of peas A small potato Queen Grains Only Get Quaker Oats for quality and flavor It is flaked from queen grains only—just the rich, plump, flavory oats. We get but ten pounds from a bushel If you want the oat dish popular, give it this Quaker flavor 15c and 35c per package Except in the Far West and South Packed in Sealed Round Packages with Removable Cover 3315 146 THE ANCHOR TO YOUTH E. F. Ben (Continued “ t She was still slender and _ bri- it, her black hair was quite un touched with gray, the fine oval of her face ll firm and unwrinkled, and her eyes, ing with the fire that might have xv pected only to smoulder now idavs, tly capable of fultling their pur poses unaided. She had made an attempt a tew oveme vere pert rs ago to wear large tortoise-s! spectac es, and that dismal failure ocecurre I HAVE tried to meet middle-age half Wilt he said, “but middle-age won't mi d meet me! I can't really see the old ha n the road even yet Do vou remember yx le Phat was a serious expedition earch middle-age, but it did no good “ fo where they were id sat down them with taint tatal crunches Phen Jack didn't like them; he said he would never have married me if he had own I was going to get old so soon, and he always hid them when he found them lving about, and he gave me an ear-trumpet for a birthday present. David them; that was the only PUrpos erved. He used to squeal with lelight old of them, and run away d cor cad ip like Mummi la IL sp tack i Bu darling; it was my spec ta that were always lost And then I like rainb « ring-trick putting pm the line f the train to go over, l e feet | late | like then “ \ t t 4 +4 9 the p Line 1 they 1 Pp b oover them ' 1 ‘ pP LCAUACS I ) I ‘ te d was waiting everel lo prius But ot all of 4 Dodo she 1d t e) piece of you that ot a child. I tt to that Dodo nodded at her Ve I know it there she said, “and we shall come to it in time. Of course, if I nly thought about pennies on the line and ce iring tricks I should be in my second r lhoo« ind well on the w to preserving iW faculties like the poor things in bath chair You see, David is mixed up so tre in these I dont suppose I ites before at that. ams t ¢ triumphs 1 ow that D went away to-day ; his nurs He is going to visit the dentist id then the bootn then he’s in to stay wit for the night. l t the fT il ine comes back to- w, thank God re were we whea t severe? Oh, PE know. You said there W piece of me which wasn't entirely ab ind vou wanted to talk to that But t's ever itficult to disentangle one piece 6D oriak RS! said Edith relentlessly. You must have drawers in your mind with handles and loci.s. You can unlock one f you want what's inside it, and pull it out by its handl When you've tinished, push ‘ i it again Phat certainly is we ought to have learned by but I don't tl ou have ver re ope eously, 1 a and sea. Don't let us concentrate; ll the drawers open and turn out everything on to the floor. I don't grow old than you do inside, in spite of my raddled, kippe red face and bones sticking out like hat-pegs. I am just as keen as ever, and just as confident that I'm going to make Bach ind Brahms and Beethoven turn in their graves I hear there was a slight subsidence the other day over the grave of one of them; it was probably my last concert in Berlin that was the real cause of it. But I've kept young inv more because ill my life I € pursued one tt With grun persistence ind always known | Was going to catch it. LT haven't had tims grow old, let alone growing middk which is so much more tragic OO} n fle age os rapidly growing tinct ind we peedn't be of catching it nowadays When we young, people of our age were middk Phey wouldn't drain lite to the dregs and t chuck the goblet away and be old. They a little wine in it still and sipped it on : Phey lay down after lunct took dinner-pills to preserve their ft energies. Now, we don't do that; as lo we have long as there j drop ot wine left we dri Phe moment LI cease to be drunk wit! spoontuls of youth that remain to mx OCCUSK in ounce of energy left we use it she, with great emphasi ‘I shall be a tot abstainer. As long as the sun is up it shall day, but as soon as it sets it shall’be n Phere shall be no long-drawn sunsets and « isting alterglows with me. When I've t ished I shall gO “pop and get into my bat chair ull bm wheeled away into the far Vault And all the time at the back of 1 atrophied brain will be the Knowledge of wt a lovely time I have had. That's my pl anyhow Dodo had got quite serious and absent the last two or three straw ning apparently that it « berri dippe d her tea-cup, Imag tamed cre You're different,” she said you ¢ heve detinite projectiol ol ve ell music; vou can still create das lo anybody create she ot not old Stretch out thats what youth mea 1 dare you will write some new tunes and go to p them in Heliogland in the autumn Phat vour anchor to vouth, vour Dower ot creatior I've got no anchor of that kind; Ive only got some tish-hool k, consisting of my sympathy with what is young, and my love o: What is new But when you blame me fo all my drawers open, there I disagree It is having all my drawers open that stand between me and the bath-chair But, my dear, what pitfalls there are tor us to avoid if we are to steer clear of being terrible grizzly kitter Such a isked Edit} having * The most obvious is one so many sprightly old things like us fall into, namely, that of taching some young man to their hoary old selves Phere’s nothing that makes a woman look so old to drag about some doped boy, and there's noth that actually ages her so quickly I never fell into that mistake, and I'm not going to begin now. It is so easy to make a boy think you are marvelous; it such a cheap success, like spending the seas second-rate watering place N more flirting for us, darling! Of course ever girl should be a flirt; it is her business to tract as many young men as possiple, and then she chooses one and goes for him for all she’s worth. That is Nature's way; look at the queen-bee Where said Edith, not quite following “Anywhere, continued Dodo, not trou bling to explain *And then again every right-minded boy is in love with several gir ind he chooses one and the rest either go into a decline or marry usually the latter But then contrast tl an way of doing things with the n ture, greasy barmaids of our age, smir} over the counter at the boys and, as I doping them. What hags! How easy to hx hag! I adore boys, but L won't be a hag iy broke off suddenly from these rr markable retlections and adjusted her hat at some at once somebody ( before the Jooking-glass “They are older than the rocks they among, us Mr. Pater said,’ she remarked *Let us go out, as Jack doesn't seem to b coming. His tet shoes fit you beautift and so does my tea-gown Do you Know happens to be ten minutes to six, so that 1 walk down across the fields, on to the railw cutting, we shall get there in time for the © press. One may as we ll go there as anywhe else Besides, David put the gum-bottk our last pennies inside the piano, and tho it would be lovely if 1 gummed them dow night, as if he were here. That's really selfish; if 1 were away and David here, | should like him not to put any pennies dc till lcame home. But David takes after Jac! Come on rhe roses round the house were in full glor of June, but the hay-fields down, which they skirted on their way, were more to Dodo mind She had two selves, so Jack told her the cown-self which delighted in crowds an theatres and dances and sniffed the reek © fresh asphalt and hot pavement with relis! and the country-self which preferred the wild rose in the hedge and the ox-eyed daisies and buttercups that climbed upward through the growing grasses to the smooth lawn and the (Continued on pave 148)

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148 i PEARLS You will adore one of these beautiful French Necklaces of La Tausca Pearls “T= radiant beauty will endow your simplest frock with new charm. They will be a becoming addition to your costume, no matter what the occasion. Go to your jeweler today and see his La Tausca Pearls department. Examine a slender strand of these exquisite gems. Try them on. You will be amazed at their beauty! Batava Pearls A charming 18-inch necklace of Roman quality ris. Presented in a beautiful grey velvet cabinet with a winte gold clesp, set witha diamond At Your Jeweler’s La Taam BATAVA pans THE ANCHOR TO YOUTH (Continued from page 146) garden-bed. She carried David’s gum-bottle and the pennies, already razor-edged from having been fle uttened out under train-wheels, and ecstatically gummed them to the rails. ‘And now we sit and wait as close as we dare,” . said. ‘Waiting really is the best part. I don’t think you agree. I think you like achievement better than expectation. “Every artist does,”’ said Edith. “I hated going to Germany, not because I thought there was any chance of my not scoring a howling success, but because I had to wait to get there. When I want a thing I want it now, so as to get on to the next thing.”’ “That's greedy,” remarked Dodo. “Not nearly so greedy as teasing yourself with expectation, ‘The glory of going on!’ as St. Paul said.” ‘And the satisfaction of standing still. I said that.” The train swept round the corner and passed them with a roar and rattle, towering high above them, a glory of efficiency, stirring and bewildering. But for once Dodo paid no attention to it. “Oh, there’s Jack, going down to the river with his fishing-rod. Whistle on your fingers, and catch his attention. I want to show him your tennis-shoes. Now, the fisherman is the real instance of the type that lives on expecta- tion. Jack goes and fishes for bours at a time in a state of rapt bliss, because he thinks he is just going to catch something. He hasn't heard; I suppose he thought it was only the express.” *T want to fish, too,” said Edith. “I adore fishing because I do catch something, and then I go on and catch something else. Besides, nobody ever fished in a tea-gown before.” “Very well. We'll go back and get another rod for you. Gracious me! I’ve forgotten the pennies and the gum-bottle. David could never forgive me, however hard he tried.” DITH came back from her fishing a little after dinner-time rosy with triumph and the heat of the evening, and with her arms covered with midge-bites. Dodo had dressed already, and thought she had never seen quite so amazing a spectacle as Edith presented as she came up the terrace, with a soaked and ruined tea-gown trailing behind her, and Jack’s tennis-shoes making large wet marks on the paving-stones. “Six beauties,” she said, displaying her laden landing-net, “‘and I missed another which must have been a three-pounder. Oh, and your tea-gown! I pinned it up round my knees with the greatest care, but it came un- done, and, well—there it is! But I hear my luggage has come, and do let us have some of these trout for dinner. I have enjoyed myself so imme nsely Don’t wait for me—I must have a bath!’ Jack, who had come in a quarter of an hour before, and had not yet seen Edith, came out of the drawing-room window at this moment. He sat down on the step and went off into helpless laughter. . . . Edith appeared about simultaneously with the broiled trout with a large order pinned rather crooked on to her dress. “Darling, what’s that swank?” asked Dodo insti intly. “Bi warian Order of Music and Chivalry,” she said. ‘“‘The King gave it me at — Isn't it a lark? I had to put it on. There’s troubadour on one side, and Richard W vet on the other.” “I don’t believe he would have been so chivalrous if he had seen you as Jack did just before dinner. Jack, would your chivalry have triumphed, darling? Your tennis-shoes, my tea-gown, and Edith in the middle.” hat! My tennis-shoes?”’ asked Jack. “Dodo, you should have broken it to him,” said Edith with deep reproach. “IT didn’t dare to. It might have made him stop laughing, and suppressed laughter is as dangerous as suppressed measles, when you get on in life. There’s another thing about your Germans. I thought of it while I was dre ssing. They only Jaugh at German jokes.’ ‘There is one in Faust,” said Jack, with an air of scrupulous fairness. “At least there co believed to be: commentators differ. But when Faust is given in Germany, the whole theatre rocks with laughter at the proper point. Edith rose to this with the eagerness of the trout she had caught. *The humor of a nation doesn’t depend on the number of jokes in its sublimest tragedy,’ she said. “Let us judge English humor by the funny things in Hamilet.” Dodo gave a commiserating sigh. “Darling, that wasn’t a very good choice.’ she said. ‘‘There are the grave-diggers, and there’ s Poionius all over the place. The most serious people see humor in Polonius. Why didn’t you say Milton? Now it’s too late.’ Jack suddenly laughed. “I beg your pardon,” said he; “I wasn’t thinking about Milton at all, but a vision of Dodo’s tea-gown appeared to me, as I last saw it. Yes. Take Milton, Edith. Dodo can’t give you a joke out of Milton, because she has never read him. Don’t interrupt, Dodo. Or take Dante. Ask me fora me in Dante, and you win all down the line. Take Julius Cesar; take any great creature you like. What you really want to point out is that great authors are seldom humorous. I agree: one up to you. Take a trout; I didn’t catch any. Edith did precisely as she was told. “T hate arguing, she said. ‘Dodo in- sisted on arguing about middle-age all the afternoon. In the intervals she talked about putting pennies on the line. She said it was enormous fun, but she forgot all about them when she had put them there.” ‘Don’t tell David, Jack,” said Dodo, aside. “All right. Dodo’s got middle - age on her mind. She bought some spectacles once. “My dear, we've had all that,” said Dodo. “What we really want to know is how you are to get gre ucefully old, while you continue to feel young. We're wanting not to be mid- dle-aged in the interval. There is no use in cutting off pleasures while they please you, because that makes you not old but sour, and who wants to be sour? What a poor ambition! It really is rather an interesting question for us three, who are between fifty-four and sixty, and who don’t feel like it. Jack, you're really the oldest of us, and more really you're the youngest.” “T doubt that,” said Edith loudly. “That is German scepticism then. Jack is much more like a boy than you are like a girl.” “T never was like a girl,” said Edith. “Ask Bertie, ask anybody. I was always mature and feverish. Dodo was always cal- culating, and her calculations were interrupted by impulse. Jack was always the devout lover. The troubadour on my medal is ex- tremely like him.” Jack passed his hand over his forehead ““What are we talking about?” he said. “Getting old, darling,” said Dodo. “So we are. But the fact is, you know, that we're getting old all the time, but we don’t notice it till some shock comes. That crystallizes things. What is fluid in you takes shape.” Dodo got up. “So we've got to wait for a shock,” she said. “Ts that all you can suggest, darling? Any- how, I shall hold vour hand if a shock comes. What sort of shock would be good for me, do you think? I know what would be good for Edith, and that would be that she suddenly found that she couldn’t help writing music that was practically indistinguishable from the Messiah.” “ And that,” said Edith, “is blasphemy.” Jack caught on. “Hush, Dodo,” he said—* an inspired, sacred work to all true musicians.’ Edith glanced 7? round. “T shall go mad,” she said, “‘if there is any more of this delicious English humor. Handel! Me and Handel! How dare you?” “Yes, you've gone too far, Dodo,” said Jack gravely. ‘‘Let’s forgive her about our tea-gown and tennis-shoes.” ‘“‘Brutes!” said Edith. TO-DAY’S NEED jor the TOWN MEETING (Continued from page 138) are innumerable neighborhood problems which call for just such expert adyice and handling as these people can give. During the influenza epidemic last year the death rate in the Unit’s district was but 2.26 per thousand, while the rate in the districts adjacent was 5.80 per thousand. The district took entire care of its sick. clearing-house was established, where influ- enza cases were immediately ‘reported by district leaders and then handed on to the nurses and doctors. Immediate attention was thus given to every patient, and, as we know, a few hours’ delay marks the difference between life and death with this disease. Public health, housing, schools and child welfare are the four subjects on which the Unit is concentrating, but others will be taken up as the work progresses. Inter- mingled with all this is the marvelous oppor- tunity presented for democratic discussion and solution of civic problems. So remarka- ble were the results of the first year’s work that the city government oi Cincinnati became alarmed and attacked the Unit as un-American and socialistic in its tendencies. Efforts to drive it out of the city were made by leading newspapers and politicians, but in a referen- dum vote of the people of the district only one hundred and twenty votes were cast against it. The Unit will therefore remain in Cincin- nati for its allotted term of three years, and, judging by the vresent spirit in the commu- nity, it will be retained for many added years.

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YOUR SKIRT No matter what your taste or preference for 24 there’s a OQUTTERITE SKIRT ta please you. [The accepted sil Spring houette—~wonderfully original in color scheme and aaveleriaal Bright colors in silk. and satin tor Miss Co quette. Crepe and filmy fabrics contrasting chose aMmiame (ul ltetccmaritatlat malitcs felan dpteme aenlticum Bloaltietiit Sport Skirts too, in Tweed, Plaid and Homespun—pleated and pore ke ted. If you are really interested in the last widest moment's style—the selection — and tru value—for Spring QUITERITE SKIRT insist OW a QUITERITE SKIRT CO. 7 West 2&th Street, New York City Hu ebster OQULTI wholly RIGH 1 f j SIR EDWARD ELGAR G. Bernard Shaw’s Article (Continued from page 73) was at least very well acted, asked, “What on-earth is the chord of the supertonic?” And .then, after a pause, “What is the su- pertonic? I never heard of it.” This little incident may help to explain the effect produced at first by Elgar on the little clique of devoted musicians who, with the late Hubert Parry as its centre, stood for British music thirty-five years ago. This clique was the London section of the Clara Schumann-Joachim-Brahms / clique in Ger- many; and the relations between the two were almost sacred. Of that international clique the present generation knows noth- ing, I am afraid, except that when Madame Schumann found that Wagner’s “Walkiire’’ fire music was to be played at a concert for which she was engaged, she declined to ap- pear in such disgraceful company, and only with great difficulty was induced, after anx- ious consultation with the clique, to make a supreme effort of condescension. and com- promise herself rather than disappoint the people who had bought tickets to hear her. This is too good a joke against the clique to be forgotten; and the result is that poor Clara and Joachim and company are now regarded as a ridiculous little mutual-ad- miration gang of snobs. I entreat our snort- ing young lions to reconsider that harsh judgment. If they had heard Clara Schu- mann at her best, they could not think of her in that way. She and her clique were snobs, no doubt; but so are we all, more or less, There are many virtues mixed up with snobbery; and the clique was entirely sincere in its snobbery, and thought it was holding up a noble ideal in the art it loved. Wagner was about as eligible for it as a 450 h.p. aeroplane engine for a perambula- tor. It was much the same at first with Elgar and the London branch of the clique. A young man from the west country without a musical degree, proceeding calmly and sweetly on the unconscious assumption that he was by nature and destiny one of the great composers, when, as a matter of fact, he had never heard of the supertonic, shocked and irritated the clique very pain- fully. It was not, of course, Elgar’s fault. He pitied them, and was quite willing to show them how a really handy man (they were the unhandiest of mortals) should write for the trombones, tune the organ, flyfish, or groom and harness and drive a horse. He could talk about every unmu- sical subject on earth, from pigs to Eliza- bethan literature. A certain unmistakably royal pride and temper was get-atable on occasion; but nor- mally a less pretentious person than Elgar could not be found. To this day you may meet him and talk to him for a week with- out suspecting that he is anything more than a very typical English country gentle- man who does not know a fugue from a fandago. The landlady in Pickwick whose complaint of her husband was that “Raddle ain’t like a man” would have said, if des- tiny had led her to the altar with the com- poser of the great symphony in A fiat, “Elgar ain’t like a musician.’’ The clique took Mrs. Raddle’s view. ‘And certainly Elgar’s music acted very difierently from theirs. His Enigma Variations took away your breath. The respiration ‘induced by their compositions was perfectly regular, and occasionally perfectly audible. That attitude, towards him was speedily reduced to absurdity by the mere! sound of his music. But some initial incredulity as to his: genius may be excused iwhen we recollect that England had waited two hun- dred years for a great English ‘composer, and waited in vain. The phenomenon of greatness in music had vanished from En- gland with Purcell. Musical’ facility had survived abundantly. England had main- tained a fair supply of amazingly dexterous and resourceful orchestral players, brass- bandsmen, organists, glee singers, and the like. But they lacked culture, and could not produce a really musical atmosphere for the local conductors who tried to organize them. And the only alternatives were the university -musicians who~made up the metropolitan cliques, gentlemen amateurs to a man, infatuated with classical music, and earnestly striving to compose it ex- actly as the great composers did. And that, of course, was no use at all. Elgar had all the dexterities of the bandsmen; sucked li- braries dry as a child sucks its mother’s breasts; and gathered inspiration from the skies. Is it any wonder that we were skep- tical of such a miracle? For my part, I expected nothing from any English com- poser; and when the excitement about Ger- ontius began, I said wearily, “Another War- dour Street festival oratorio!” But when I heard the Variations (which had not at- tracted me to the concert) I sat up and — “Whew!” I knew we had got it at ast. Since then English and American com- posers have sprung up like mushrooms: that is, not very plentifully, but conspicu- ously. The clique is, if not dead, toothless; and our Cyril Scotts and Percy Graingers, our Rutland Boughtons and Granville Ban- tocks and the rest pay not the smallest at- tention to its standard. .The British Mu- sical Society offers to name forty British composers of merit without falling back on Elgar or any member of his: generation. But, so far, Elgar is alone for Westminster Abbey. As I said to begin with, neither I nor any living man can say with certainty whether these odds and ends which I have been able to relate about Elgar are the stigmata of what we call immortality. But they look to me very like it; and I give them ac- cordingly for what they may prove to be worth. YOUR DINING-ROOM Anne Duncan’s Article (Continued from page 109) with the bottoms weighted by a metal rod, and the bottom edge shaped and trimmed with cotton fringe and a tassel. Available for this purpose are many designs in all- over lace, which include bird and lattice patterns, a filet design with Cupids, and the pictorial patterns copied from toile de Jouy, and old hand-blocked wall-papers, as illustrated. In table appointments there is now a fascinating array of lovely things. Won- derful copies of Georgian silver pieces for both decorative and actual dining-room use are obtainable—candlesticks, wine-cool- ers, bowls, covered jars, and complete serv- ices that carry out in the detail of each piece a distinct type of decoration. Where pottery is preferred to silver, as a decorative table feature, there are soit green or creamy-hued compétes in new shapes for fruit, with smaller ones for sweets. Flower holders and candlesticks to match may also be had. Candles in complete accord with the candlesticks in which they are used are made with raised polychrome decorations, or painted with flower motifs and colored bands. Again, the candles are square in shape and striped with silver and white, black and white, or any desired colorings; or in plain solid colors have tapering ends or the twisted Renaissance form. As a means of lighting the dining-table, the soft glow of the candle is to be preferred to any other. In china, the recent importations of Royal Worcester include service-plates with beautiful decorations in broad bands of powder-blue, green or rose, bordered with stripes of gold, with a basket of flowers as a central motif, or merely showing the soft ivory-toned surface of the china. Another pattern is of Persian origin, with enameled motifs like tiny jewels set in the decora- tion of the border. Others have a raised gold tracery over the entire surface of the plate, with a painted center flower medal- lion in exquisite colorings. Square dessert plates in Royal Worcester also have the powder-blue or green banding’ with enameled center flower decoration. The new Lenox china has bands of en- crusted gold and dark blue enamel. Crown Staffordshire offers a novelty in individual breakfast sets. The white china has col- ored stripes about the edges, colored han- dles and a pink, blue or lavender rosebud decoration on the lids of the coffee-pot and sugar bowl. ‘Tea sets in blue or green lus- tre with amber-colored linings, and others of unusual shape in orchid lustre are among the daintiest of the newer wares. For informal use the Wedgwood plates with corrugated borders and _basket-of- flower centers, and gray-banded Royal Worcester, edged with a checked border in black and white, broken by clusters of rosebuds, have a distinct charm. Among the newest glassware, white glass with broad blue bands outlined with a de- posit of silver is an innovation. This metal appliqué is also combined with enameled flowers as a decorative motif in silhouette on the sides of bowls, compétes, etc., and is applied to a variety of table accessories, such as mayonnaise bowls, cracker and cheese plates, relish dishes, jugs, candy compotes, and others. The copies of Old English and Irish glass rummers and beak- ers, with air stems and grape-vine cutting, are among the newer decorative features.

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Ys NE a ENTRANCING LOVELY Moderately Priced Charming hand-made night gown made of sheer French batiste, trimmed with real filet and baby Irish dace with V neck. Hand- oS made eyelets ~! run -through with ribbon. Charming hand made night gown made of sheer French batiste trimmed with real filet lace; hand made eyelets run through with ribbon. Can be a square or V neck, sleeve- less or with sleeves. $8.75 Plus Tax 63c. Of sheer French batiste is this envelope chemise, trimmed with baby Irish lace, an mo hand embroidery. Also can be had in Step-In. Plus Tax 63c. $11 .25 Wholesate and Retail 24 WEST 5§9“STREET.NEW YORK Next Door to the Hotei Plaja =———————j - aneoet C & *. ime ’ HAND MADE VU YN, Bathing-suits are no longer somber and of unattractive fabrics, for the adorable one above at the left is of black satin and black tricolette, with a full short skirt banded with deep rose stripes, In the center dark blue duvetyn makes the bathing- dress, and a violet velvet panel, stitched in rose yarns, oddly trims it. The last suit is also of midnight duvetyn, with a tunic that is trimmed with buttonhole stitching in white wool. COLORFUL SUITS FOR THE BATHING HOUR Models from BONWIT TELLER & CO. A suit that will allow for any amount of strenuous swimming is the one above at the left. It is of black silk and has been trimmed with embroidery in white worsted. At the right is one of violet satin that is quite modishly adorned with little bands of raffia stitching in a brilliant shade of blue. | Teton Pharmacal\Co’ winpsor 484 COPPIN BLOG NTARIO COVINGTON. KY. U.S.A

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: { Ds TETEITITTTIT TIT TT TTT TTT TTT 4 amy SLUHERASIACAROGHORSORSGUIGREOAIOEROSEOEOROEOECGORNSAED*&9g $ OMEN’S wool sport stockings, long ap- preciated abroad for their suitability and comfort, were early introduced in America by Peck & Peck. Imported qualities now being receivedare exceedingly smart for both town and country wear, Mail Orders Filled Promptly PECK & PECK EXCLUSIVE HOSIERY 586 Fifth Avenue at 48th Street 5o1 Fifth Avenue at 42nd Street Also at 4 No. Michigan Blvd , Chicago \ fragrant invisible marvel mesh SUOEDOUEEOSOCESLOSUGREEREUGGORGHELUCLERLAUEEOREREEREEEEGTS PS SUGCESOERRGSREECRORERSORGEROCOCOGLERROECERORCLOROGEOERELEE* ¢ce WY Ss Why you should insist upon sanitary hair nets! The intimate character of a hair net alone should prompt the only hair net that is re- sterilized after it is imported to this country. Then to protect you against | you to mmsist on Bownet— d handled by other shoppers for matching, Bownet is sealed in a dainty double envelope. Without touching Bownet you make your selection from the exceptionally wide variety of sixteen shades shown on the Bownet Shade Guide, at your dealers. Your hands alone break the seal and disc'ose this delicately the possibility of its being € of real human hair— Bownet. a a A eta YRORTER i. OD EES ETE LG IES IEE EIET ELODIE IE \ @ ~~ f ¢ d ( x

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PLR DELLE LL DLR a ee eee : s : : Z i : § : : vey ene rnaannent Und rpenREN NON TIE ee BON LUN ENE ONNNOEAL BRAT lo your’ aemagge igen I, Robert line mal Come’, ween Roberta- Laced in-iront Corsets Batiste and Coutils. --«a—_>- Roberta» are sold at good stores and eorset shops-Priced fromsesee down. ROBERTA “2ce¢-in- fron CORSETS Reberta, Corset Company Cosedsin Jront - Gxtlusivelsy/ 2100 WabashAve Dept. Chicago HUT UPAUEOND CUOROUEAUD FEU UEDEUOEOAD CUUONNHiCdIOE 1 NEUETU URNA UNG SON EYE; TNT LED 10 AE ON Ah HAN LARNER Hh atti TI Lee Fannie YELLOW ROSES Heaslip Lea’s Story (Continued from page 89) Out of the starry South provoking rumors brought us Far promise of the spring already north- ward turned “And breast drew near to breast, and round its soft desire My arm uncertain stole and clung there unrepelled - I thought that nevermore my heart would hover nigher To the last flower of bliss that Nature's garden held. “Out of the past’s remote delirious abysses Shine forth once more, as then you shone,—beloved head, Laid back in ecstacy between our blind- ing kisses, Transfigured with the bliss of being so coveted.” She drew a long breath and turned her back on the table—she had thought she heard the old negress shuffling toward her out of the other room. She called sweetly: “I'm going, now—thanks for letting me see the rooms . . Yo’ ain’ seed ‘em all yit,” the old woman objected, appearing after a moment abstractedly Lila flung a glance over the stooped blue calico shoulder that encountered severally a piano, a long and waterishly gleaming mirror, and in a third room a great four- poster bed—it was the bed, perhaps, that decided her. After all even Romance has its limitations . “Oh, I think I ‘must go!” she cried hur- riedly, and fled—down the wide stairway, past the dreaming courtyard, and out once more into the street. When she came out of Royal into Canal Street, crowded with home-going citizens, she began to laugh with a touch of defiance. ‘Say it never happened!” she adjured the inner and slightly cynical amusement that her other self was commonly prey to. “It’s absurd of course—’ She was not, however, to be allowed even to herself to pretend that “it never hap- pened’”’. Dining only the next night at Antoine's with a rather gay party, she caught, mid- way of the crayfish bisque, a line of verse and a laugh that drew her up short . “Give you my word,” the man across the table from her was saying, “there it was on the table when I got back from New York last night! You know that thing of Alan Seeger’s—a somewhat slushy bit of verse: ‘-Do you remember once in Paris of glad faces—’ well—the book was open at that—underlined, too, and a handful of wilted yellow roses across the page. How's that for romance! The long arm of coincidence—or the gut- tersnipe laughter of Fate? Lila stooped for her napkin and felt the hot blood stream across her face. “No one knows,” she warned herself des- perately. Her first impulse had been flight. Her second was reprisal. GHE lifted a gallant head, shining and smooth as a blackbird’s wing, beneath a small and equally gallant hat. Her eyes were brilliant, her color clear and lovely. You would have said her mouth was too controlled, perhaps, for perfect feminine sweetness—but that was all. “Please tell it again,’ she said, looking straight into the eyes of the man who had been talking. “You've no idea how inter- esting it sounds. What was it about wilted yellow roses—and Alan Seeger?” So the man told her, in a slow, amused voice, with an under-current of sarcasm and a distinct air of detachment — what she already knew. Lila listened, answering his amusement with her own little air of aloof indulgence. He was distinctly a personable man— which made such listening, if anything, more difficult—neither too young nor too old, with cool gray eyes and an infrequent smile. His hair was blond as any Norse- man’s, smooth as silk and close-cut as a soldier's. When he looked at you he also looked through you— and his teeth were very white. Also, his clothes, far from in- cluding a black velvet jacket and a flowing tie, were better chosen and better worn than those of any other man at the table. He was sophistication itself, a very charming and quiet sophistication, smooth surface, with the resilience of steel beneath—and Lila inferred, from the way in which her hostess and the two other women of the party listened and leaned when he spoke, that he was not without magnetic quality. His eyes were still on hers when he fin- ished. As a matter of fact, he had not actually seen her before and that delicately inhuman poise of hers attracted him strongly. “Who do you suppose left the book- and the roses?” asked Lila languidly. Talk about the table had flowed away from them. She leaned on her elbows and smiled across the cloth into his eyes, with apparently no more than a passing curiosity. “Why, the old darkey who does my rooms told me some woman passing asked if she might look into the courtyard—and Zephy- rine asked her up-stairs. Indirect hospi- tality on my part. She must have left the things, of course. I rather imagine she was some hysterical tourist- ‘lady, looking for local color and romance! He laughed shortly. “What did your—Zephyrine, is it?—say she looked like?” “Oh, Zephyrine’s blind as a bat! She couldn't have told. Said she had a mighty sweet voice, that’s all—but I fancy I know the sort. Washington Square breeds ‘em by the dozen—bobbed hair and smocks— all soul and rather little sense. The only thing they can’t forgive is success—if you sell it, it’s bad! They fatten on failure, because you can always explain how that happened . . “Rather bitter, aren't you?” asked Lila, smiling a trifle absently. “And how would a—person—like that have money enough to wander around the country, leaving yel- low roses and volumes of erotic poetry on the tables of strange young men?” ‘Meaning me?” his extraordinarily cool eyes conveyed an instantaneous challenge. “Do you know, I'd rather begun to hope—” “So soon?” His smile flashed unexpectedly, with a youngness that almost took Lila off her guard. ... “Sooner or later—what’'s the difference?” he demanded Lila shrugged, a thing she did rather neatly, with an effect of looking on from an immense distance at the innocuous gambol- ings of her fellow men. “One expects that sort of thing, of course,’ she murmured, “from Southern men. “What sort of thing?” She lifted feather-slim eyebrows. “Philandering-at-first-signt—you ed to be philanderous—didn’t you?” The man across the table Geet at her for a moment or so in silence. Lila, still smarting from his desultory sketch of the lady of the yellow roses, gave him back pre- cisely the sort of pasa aime | scrutiny that he sent. “Allow me to assure you,” he said at last, “that when I do philander, which is only semi- occasionally, the party of the second part is never in any doubt “No?” said Lila. Her inflection and tone were exquisitely insulting. She looked at him and looked away again, lips curving ever so little, eyelids drooping, one white hand closing about the stem of her glass... . _intend- Bt the man on one side had begun an absorbed discussion with the woman on his other side as to the merits of oysters in May, and the remaining man had been called away to the telephone, so that Lila, lifting a reluctant glance, found gray eyes smil- ingly awaiting her return from across the table, and experienced a sudden and un- characteristic desire to rise hastily and leave the place. “Tell me some more about the book and the roses,” she offered sweetly—‘“that was interesting.” “Thank you,” he rejoined gravely. “How- ever—if that’s my only hold on your atten- tion, I’m afraid this perfect day is almost over. There’s nothing more to tell. I have a very clear idea of what the poor romantic soul probably looked like——” Lila nodded with a faint grimace of dis- taste: “Insufficiently manicured, of course—unh- powdered and beaming “I'd say so. And exuding temperament— good Lord!” Lila forgot him and came back to him with an effort, one of her most infuriating accomplishments. “Temperament—oh, of course? What did you do with the roses? “Threw them out,” he assured her pleas- antly. “They were dead, you know, by the time I got to ‘em. “And the book?” “Oh, it’s lying around somewhere.” The dinner-party shifted and dissolved. People rose from the table with the usual flurry of renewed interest that attends going on to another place. Someone said: “Let’s go out to Spanish Fort—the mu- sic at Tranchina’s is awfully good — only it’s a bit early for dancing—" Someone else said: (Continued on page 156)

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YELLOW ROSES

Fannie Heaslip Lea’s Story (Continued from page 154) “It won’t be, by the time we get there!” Lila could not clearly remember after- ward even what Antoine’s was like. She took away with her a vague impression of high discolored walls, of mirrors and of a rather interesting old clock with medal- lioned numbers circling its imperturbable face. Chiefly she fought to throw off the very clear-cut recollection of a pair of an- noyingly quiet eyes, of a mockingly un- moved mouth—a flowing black tie dipped through her mind like a bat; a black velvet jacket shadowed her composure unpleas- antly; had she made a romantic little fool of herself? Unquestionably she had. That no one knew it barely saved her soul alive. However, remembering Antoine’s or not, she never forgot the drive to Spanish Fort. Down a dimly gleaming shell-road, between pale star-sprinkled water on one hand and shadowy fragrant open spaces on the other. The night air was like the spirit of spring; drowsy with the witchcraft of elder-flowers, but sharp in the veins as wine. And she rode in the back of an open car, a great purring onsweeping, velvetly-mov- ing car, with a man’s shoulder against her own—the man, of course, to whom she had given the book and the roses. That was Fate—and a thoughtful hostess. “Mrs. Gayle—” thus the hostess—‘I’m going to send you and Mr. Fortune out to-

“So—” observed the man upon seating himself—“you are Mrs, Gayle? I hadn’t even known your name.” He added, low- voiced and thoughtful, as the car drew out of the traffic, “I’d no idea that you were married,” “What difference does it make?” in- quired Lila disdainfully. “PERHAPS none at all—perhaps a great deal,” Fortune replied after a moment. “JT don’t know you well enough, I dare say, to institute a probe. I’m disappointed, though, I'll tell you frankly. Is your hus- band in this country?” “Why do you ask?” “Because I want to know— isn’t that ob- vious?’ , There’ $ no especial reason why I should tell you. “Unless you'd like me to know. Are you very much in love with your husband? You’ve no idea how important all this is to me.” “My husband,” said Lila, linking her hands together in her lap and looking off across the arc-lit pavements, “‘was killed in France in the first year of the war. He was an Englishman.” “I’m sorry,” said Fortune quietly. Lila looked at him unsmiling. “T haven’t asked you to be. It isn’t at all a romantic story. My marriage, like a great many other marriages, was a mistake. There would have been a divorce—except for the war. We were most unsuited to each other. I think international marriages frequently prove—well, a bit difficult—don’t you think?” “You are cold, aren’t you?” said the man beside her. There was an inexplicable tinge of disap- pointment in his voice. “That,” said Lila Gayle, “is what my husband used to say.” “And the—circumstances of his death— made no difference in your feeling for him?” he asked. “T fancy not—you see, the only word he left to be delivered in the event of—casu- alty—went to another woman, not to me.” “Do you know,” Fortune told her pres- ently, “even though I asked—as of course I'd no right to do—-still, it’s out of the or- dinary, your telling me this. Does it strike you we may be meant to know each other— or are you one of those people who don’t believe in that sort of thing?” They were leaving Canal Street for the scented shadows of the West End Road. “Really, I can’t say that it does,” said Lila disinterestedly. ‘You see, I haven’t told you anything that my worst—or best —friend couldn’t have told you about four years ago. It was town talk, merely. You know how gossip gets about. I haven’t been making any confidences.” “T see,” said Fortune. They rode for a mile or so in silence. .He said at last: “You have an extraordinary gift of re- pelling—well, liking—for lack of a better term—haven’t you?” “T don’t know, have I?” asked Lila. “Conveying at the same time,” he con- tinued evenly, “a very distinct impression that your liking—again for lack of a bet- ter term—might be extraordinarily well worth having.” “I’m afraid,” she told him lightly, “that you are a trifle too psychological for me.”

DON’T think I am,” said Fortune cool- ly. “And if you are afraid, which I beg leave to doubt, it is for another and very different reason. In spite of herself, she murmured coldly: “Which is?” “Have you ever seen flowers frozen in a block of ice?” “Yes, but oftener fish,” Lila admitted, with an irresistible ripple of laughter. He laughed himself. “Granted. We'll stick to the flowers, however. . . Well—you’re like that, and you, like your block of ice—you’d hate to be melted out of it. It’s convenient—and exclusive. You’re afraid of possible conse- quences, supposing you left it—aren’t you?” “Nothing intrigues me more,” Lila told him gently,” than having my soul read by strange young men.’ Fortune acknowledged the reiteration with a shrug of his own. “The first strange young man,” he sug- gested, “was accident—possibly. Id say the second was deliberate, eh?” “You'd be quite right,” said Lila. After which the conversation lagged. There is, however, a certain intimacy in quarreling, even veiled half-hearted quar- reling, such as Lila had been indulging in, which eliminates preliminaries and puts a man and a woman almost at once upon a basis of definite acquaintance. She knows, in any case, that she has dis- turbed his thoughts. He feels, at least, that she has not ignored him.. Add to which white magic of May darkness; spring winds, cool upon the eyelids, the lure of a vanish- ing road, and the occasional forced contact of shoulder and shoulder. . . “I could have liked this man—rather—” Lila sighed to herself—‘except for that wretched courtyard!” He mused, as men do . . . “How long would it take, I wonder, to get past that icy-indifference stuff of hers? It’s pretty enough—but I’ve seen it before... . it’s usually only skin-deep.” He began to talk again after a while, with entire impersonality, upon a variety of subjects—which faintly irritated the lovely lady beside him, as he had known it would. She wanted the delicate satisfaction of erecting barriers. He gave her no ex- cuse for them. She desired to slight him. He kept out of reach. By the time they came to the lights aud the noise and the sensuous excitement of the dancing floor, the duel was going finely. “Shall we dance?” suggested Fortune. “Oh, not just yet,’’ evaded Lila. She watched him move off presently, to the insidious urge of the trombone and the jungle fury of the drum, with his arm about Mrs. Allain’s not unattractive roundness, his smooth blond head bent for the better hearing of Mrs. Allain’s ingenuous murmurs. Lila, remaining stationary between Mr. Allain and an odd man whose name she never heard, experienced a vague and un- reasonable sensation of annoyance. She accepted a cigarette and smoked it coldly. The two men endeavored in vain to win a smile from her immobile lips. Before the barbaric cadences of a remarkably primitive opus in jazz, she sat chilly and unmoved— but there was a spirit in her feet. Her eyes gleamed between narrowed eyelids. The long glaringly-lighted room with its intimacy of little tables and many glasses; with its evanescent smoke-wreaths, and its continual whisper of sliding feet; with its women in thin pale frocks and flower-frail hats, or no hats at all—flushed, smiling, pliant women who leaned to the arms of the men they danced with,.in a kind of mo- mentary abandonment to the frankly savage beat of the music. “It’s all a bit vulgar,” Lila .assured her- self from a determined distance—but it got into her blood, none the less. THE negro musicians, swaying in their seats with half-shut eyes, drew out strange rhythms,and minor harmonies, set in wild crashing *chords that compelled like a ghostly hand on the shoulder. “T think jazz music is rather silly, don’t you?” said Lila to the odd man languidly. Nevertheless, just before the next dance be- gan, she met Fortune’s eyes with the glim- mer. of a smile. “Changed your mind?” he inquired pleas- antly. “Perhaps,” said Lila. He invoked the ancient formula: “Shall we dance?” “If you like——” He was beside her, his arm was about her, his eyes smiling down into hers . .. queer what disturbing eyes he had! Queer, too, the smug sanction of convention cover- ing the sudden unsettling intimacies of a moment like this! (Continued on page 158)

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F you cannot enjoy the famous Strap- ping Muscle Treatments in the Salon of their originator, Mrs. Adair, you can use the same methods in your own home with the essential Ganesh Prepar- ations. These are fully described in rs. Adair’s Lecture Book, sent on re- ceipt of 3c postage. Mrs. Adair will gladly advise you how to use them and how to overcome any unattractive con- | ditions that trouble you—just write her When ordering preparations, please ad: 4% tax to your remittance. GANESH CLEANSING CREAM—A light, penetrating cream which clears the pores of all impurities and paves the skin soft and refreshed. 75c, $1.50, GANESH DIABLE TONIC—Firms and invigorates the skin, tightens it under the chin and keeps it clear, white and fine of texture. 85c, $2.20, $5.50. 92 New Bond St., London, West Moulding the Mouth “Of all the organs of sense, the mouth admits, 1 believe, of the greatest beauty and the greatest deformity. Emerson, ERE’S a formula for a pretty mouth—Contentment and Mrs. Adair! In proportion as the sensitive muscles about the lips become habit- uated to a cheerful expression and re‘ain their elas‘ici'y, do mouth, chin and cheeks assume lovely contours and remain youthful. Mrs. Adair’s Strapping Muscle Treat- ments and Sanath Preparations keep the muscles of face and neck mobile and elastic. Applied regu- larly, they lift, revitalize and firm sagging tissues, banish unlovely lines, bring color to lips and cheeks and beautify the skin. Ganesh Preparations GANESH NEIGE CREAM—A “powder base” which protects the skin and keeps it smooth and velvety. Greaseless. Pink, cream, white. $1.50. GANESH MUSCLE OIL— Effaces wrinkles, fills out hollows and rebuilds flabby tissues. Wonderfully rejuvenating. $1.10, $2.65, $5.25. GANESH SKIN FOOD— Restores rounded contours. Especially good for tender, dry skin. 75c, $1.50, $3. GANESH ACNE LOTION— For eradicat- ing oiliness, blackheads and pimpies, this is the most effectual of remedies. $1.50. tired, lined eyes. Box of 12, $2.5) GANESH ANTI-PUFF LOTION— For bad puffs under the eyes. $1.25. GANESH LILY LOTION—A protective liquid powder which refines the skin and gives a lovely finisn to face, neck and arms Will not rub off. Pink, cream, white. $1.50, $2.50. , GANESH BANDELLETES— wit freshen ELEANOR ADAIR 557 Fifth Avenue, New York 5 Rue Cambon, Paris André, 94 Rua Assemblea, Rio de Janeiro, Braz'l MASTER 27 W358" Stl satisfying to possess ! dark brown ooze, white bu buck, $20. Send for Catalog H-3 and Mea- surement Charts. Mail Orders postpaid. Fit guaranteed. Charge Accounts. A] FARQVHARG \) S WIDTHS AAAA TO D-LENGTHS 1 TO 10 ‘ “Are Nous Not Charmants?” query the ShoeCraft Shoes for spring, which fashionably speak the new Franco- American language. Combining Parisian coquetry with American grace, and emphasizing the ShoeCraft characteristics of luxurious quality and perfect fit, they are irresistible to behold, enduringly TULIP—Very becoming is this one-eyelet tie with shortened vamp and slender contour. Its snug fit at heel affords security. Developed in ck, or pearl gray ra\r af elenlseleejenfenfesienioalonjonieniocieciealoo|oaoeienle sienie ale “2 fe $ HANDMADE BLOUSES # WEIL © W FE Te. : ole a’ ope § & 4 = E —, es “hs 5 q an ae ey H3e of RES 3 : ! 20 pram | i = \ 2 : 36 o- a Titi } OR the woman who takes pleas- ure in the fineness of each little seam, in exquisite drawn work, fine hemstitching and hand tucking —the ‘‘Fleur-de-Lis’” Hand Made Blouse is a revelation of daintiness. In the Fleur-de-Lis blouse EVERY STITCH IS MADE.BY HAND and the resulting ensemble is per- fection. Priced from $5.95 up. $ _FLEURcelis . : “Handmade Blouse) * Look for this label. The Fleur-de-Lis blouse is sold in most good shops. Write for our style booklet. 36 East 31st St., New York “fost ofa of sfusfe cfoste stent fe ofa sfosfosfe cfoctooie dose ofa clocfente ole % Thodenjonesirt

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Fred oNeal ¢ Py a The English Idea in American Outdoor Apparel SS ner atin iad eg Suits and Coats are sensibly smart — with a style that lasts throughout the long life of the garments. The material is pure worsted, knitted closely as to give the effect of tweed and delightfully superior to wrinkles, dampness and hard usage. Tweed-O-Wool Suits, Coats and Riding Habits in plain shades and heather mixtures are sold by leading Clothiers, Haberdashers and Apparel Stores. Write us for Fashion Booklet. THE M & M COMPANY Scranton, Pa. YELLOW ROSES Fannie Heaslip Lea’s Story (Continued from page 156) Lila’s pulse quickened, she was conscious, to the last nerve in her body, of the call of his fingers, holding hers— “You poor little fool!’”’ she cried to her- self, in a species of panic, “you -haven’t known this man twelve hours—you must be going mad. ... ” Something within her rather hoped she was—the block of ice beginning to thaw. The music throbbed like all the tom-toms of the Congo. When the trombone slid along the scale, Lila’s heart- beat slid with it. “So you do like to dance?” said Fortune. Did she desperately fancy it, or was there a new note in his voice as well?— something not quite so controlled, a shade less impersonal— “Yes,” she said airily, “I dance rather well, don’t you think?” “Better than that,” said Fortune, “as of course you know.” * Presently she said to him, oddly abrupt —*You don’t really live here, do you—in New Orleans?” “Why—don’t I fit in?” “Not in the least—the old part of the place is too romantic, too theatrical for you —and al] this, the jazz madness—you know what I mean—it’s too young... . ” “You're rather a disconcerting person— no,” he admitted, looking down at her curi- ously,’—as a matter of fact, I’m not a native. ‘I’ve been here eleven months or so, working on a report—Government stuff —something I got into the last year of the war and: haven't quite wound up—some- thing that has to do with labor conditions— are you smiling?” “Was I?” she evaded. “You .must. see my. rooms on Royal Street,’ he told her suddenly. “Shall I have a party for you there? Would you like it?” Lila nodded. - “Does one bring yellow roses—and books of verse?” she inquired. “As many as one likes—seriously—I think you’d like my courtyard—when’s. the next moon?” “Oh, Moon of my Delight!—in about ten days, I think... ” pA lay awake that night and wondered at life. Which is with a woman merely another way of saying she wondered at her- self. Three years’ boredom swept overboard and gone before the wave of one man’s look—who might not even look at her again! There had after all been magic in that courtyard—those two small angels had been not without reason for smiling—but alas for Rodolphe-Bel-Ami! He wavered and faded out before the recollection of a keen, sophisticated glance—a curt low voice— “Who is this Mr. Fortune?” asked Lila indifferently, meeting Mrs. Allain in a down-town shop next day. « It appeared upon Mrs. Allain’s explana- tion that he was a dollar-a-year man with the Government . . . “but he has heaps, my dear, of his own. They wouldn’t take him for the army—something wrong with his heart—rather a lamb, isn’t he?” There had been more of the wolf about him than-the lamb, to Lila’s disquieted consciousness, but she smilingly let the classification lie. Also, upon her second meeting with For- tune, which took place not more than two days later, she reverted deliberately to a kind of chilling formality, which he with equal deliberation overthrew at once. “Oh, we're past all that!” he assured her. “Have you forgotten how you danced with me half the night—to the outrageous neglect of everybody else? We're almost old friends. .. ” “Yes?” murmured Lila. She tried to tell herself that she held her own against the challenge in his cool non- sense. Secretly she knew that her grip was slipping, and the fact tormented her. She had been once before the fool of her own emotions. She had no mind to make a sec- ond mistake. And she dared not believe that behind Fortune’s half-humorous talk, behind the curiously steady way in which he looked at her, behind his wanting to be with her and liking to talk to her—was anything more than the mere casual interest any man feels in any woman crossing his horizon for the first time. “Bos FORTUNE’knows his way about, my dear!” said Mrs. Allain, upon one occasion. “He loves them all.” The little claws, although obviously such, found a mark. Suddenly Lila announced that she was returning to the East. It availed her noth- ing. The night before she was to leave, Fortune gave a party for her in the rooms on Royal Street. There was a moon, three-quarter and lambent, and the courtyard swam in white fire. Beyond the wall, to which the moon- flowers clung, glowed hazily the lighted windows, ruddy and golden, of the build- ing which looked, at least, like a cathedral. The wrought-iron lantern at the foot of the stairs was lit, the green iron bench beneath the palm-tree showed invitationally empty. Lila faced it all with the loveliest of not- too interested smiles—but caution screened a mutinously troubled heart. She might have been coming home—she had the strangest feeling of somehow belonging. . . . It was eleven o’clock and after, when the party climbed the stairs to the room with the arched, black-framed windows. There had been dinner first at the Louisiane, and a desultory amount of dancing, in which Mrs, Allain had rather preempted Fortune. Lila wished the whole thing were over. She had a humiliating feeling of having given where nothing was asked of her—and she dreaded sensitively, a possible retelling of the tale of the yellow roses, against its own background. If Fortune were to laugh over it again . . . Fortune, however, was apparently no more in a laughing mood than Lila herself. He managed his guests adroitly. One moment Mrs. Allain and the two other women with Allain, the odd man of the Spanish Fort party and a nervous-looking youngster, whom every one called Denny, were drifting. about the rooms, noisily amused. and calling for something to drink: the next, Denny was at the grand piano in the room with the wide, waterishly shining mirror over the fireplace, Mrs. Allain was settled effectively and coquettishly upon an old-fashioned sofa with the odd man, while others lounged happily in -deep- chairs be- neath old parchment-shaded lamps. It left Lila alone in the outer room with her host, an arrangement obviously of his own effect- ing. She sat in the window beside the table, where she had left the book and the roses— he lounged against the opposite side of the window and watched her, unsmiling. In the unearthly pallor of moonlight and lamp- light together, her gown of some vague misty lilac-colored stuff took on delicious shadows .. . her eyes were soft as twilight. “So you're leaving to-morrow?” said Fortune at last. Denny, in the inner room was playing a Chopin nocturne, full of consciously emo- tional sweetness and dragging legatos. Lila drew a bored little sigh. “Yes—I shouldn’t really be here to-night. My train goes before noon, and I’m only half-packed.” “I wanted you to see these rooms—I wanted to see you in them. . .” “How odd—why?” she wondered, with- out a flicker of enthusiasm. “I rather wanted,” said Fortune slowly, “to see if you’d respond to the atmosphere —you don’t, do you? I fancied you might. In a way, it’s a wonderful background for you, but it leaves you cold. I can see that.” His voice dropped a little lower. Denny’s music shut them away from the other room. Lila looked at the jewel-studded lantern, gleaming now with inner fires, and wished herself away—a good half-world away, from that cool unhurried voice, those cool critical gray eyes. The silken-smoothness of his blond head hurt her heart—she put out a desperate hand and fingered a book on the table beside her. . . “You know,” he was saying, “you’d be wonderful—of course you’re wonderful al- ready—but you'd be utterly unbelievable if you could only come alive. You're con- genitally cold—aren’t' you?—or is it just that I’m not the man to let you out of your block of ice?” wae don’t know what you mean,” said ila. “Of course you don’t,” he told her half- laughing. “Oh, well!—we can’t have every- thing. Do you know what that is you're playing with?” Lila opened the book. It was small and slender, with a flat bronze dagger between two of its pages. She held it to the lamp. Three rose-leaves drifted to the table, scent- less and dry and dead. “Why—it’s—it’s—” she felt for unbe- traying words, the breath catching in her throat—“‘its the verses—marked—that you told us about. You keep it?” Fortune nodded. He came and stood beside the table, one hand in his trousers- pocket, his keen eyes whimsical. “I do. Does that amuse you?” “Rather.” “A little scornful, too, aren’t you, Lady Disdain?” “J—I don’t know,” said Lila hurriedly, “This is romance,” he explained kindly.” You were born without a grain of it, lovely (Continued on page 162)

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|New Shades For Spring And Summer interesting touch of green. linery. 3235 Shrimp Pink 6 St -The stand- ard Coral shade, a real ‘‘glad” tone for the new seasons. 3391 Light Orchid (MorningGlory) - A fascinating mem- ber of the “orchid tints,""—fresh, opti- mistic, pleasing. the charming “Ve- netian blues,—a water shade that s limpid yet of “body.” 3 Light Pink : ¢ awn) A sugges I very eR shade pe mece Gallcahe ans fresh. , . the silk for ad NOTE: These shades perfect match Color Card Associa- FPaame sites SS SEWING SILKS Strong, smooth, tasy-w rking Tar veletes(oleta ace) ‘ | Hit Hi. K 3 kK Incomparable—Unapproachable—Splendid Puffed Wheat For Your Bowls of Milk As an ideal food, morning, noon or night, Puffed Wheat is chief of Puffed Grains. It comes to you as toasted bub- bles, thin and fragile, with a fas- cinating taste. It supplies whole-wheat nutrition in its most delightful form. Puffed Rice For Berries—For Ice Cream Puffed Rice is a daintier product, with a taste like toasted nuts. It is rice grains puffed to airy e. It is a food morsels, thin as tissu confection. Mix it with your berries. Serve with cream and sugar. Use like nut meats on ice cream or candy making. The texture is so fragile that it fairly melts away, but it leaves a wish for more. Corn Puffs For Exquisite Flavor Vv f! 9 Corn Puffs is made from hominy. a Tiny pellets are super-toasted, then © puffed to raindrop size. & It is fairy-like in texture, and the 8 flavor is exquisite. uw 1) Serve like other Puffed Grains. b Or crisp and lightly butter for chil- & dren to eat dry. All these grains seem tidbits, yet v It is whole wheat steam-exploded —puffed to eight times normal size. Every food cell is blasted, so digestion is easy and complete. all are scientific foods. cereals are so fitted for digestion None make such all-hour foods. In these summer days keep all three kinds on hand. in home No other Puffed Wheat Puffed Rice Pancake Flour A New Puffed Grain Delight Puffed Rice orn Puffs Such Pancakes as You Never Tasted » _ 5) We now make Puffed Rice Pancake Flour—an ideal mixture with ground Puffed Rice. It makes the pancakes light and fluffy, and gives a nut-like taste. Simply add milk or water, for the ~ E®) flour isself-raising, and you’ll make the . — finest pancakes that you ever knew. tn = —_— Try it now. The Quaker Qals @mpany Sole Makers

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SOME CHIFFON AND A BIT OF LACE—BEHOLD A NEGLIGEE A most alluring negligée is of softly hued chiffon. Its yoke and kimono-like sleeves, to- gether with its long sweeping train of heavy lace, give it much dignity and feminine charm, Models from BONWIT TELLER Hyacinth-blue chiffon and lovely lace have been used for the robe at the right, and to trim it there are palest pink ribbons, knotted and fluttering at sleeves and hem. The cloudy confection of chiffon and lace below has a long filmy train in French blue. With this one wears a peasant cap to ac- cord with the negligée in fabric and design.

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TNT ETT LI | BoukE SOEURS 9, Rue de la Paix Paris invite Madame’s gracious attendance at their spring exhi- bition of ROBES, MANTEAUX et LINGERIE These surpassingly lovely models illustrate most delight- fully the influences which will dominate the new fashions. In each creation, beauty, originality and femi- nine allure are blended with a genius indubitably of Boué. A presentation is given daily from eleven to one and from three to five under the personal supervision of Boué Soeurs, Madame la Baronne d€Etreillis and Madame Sylvie de Montegut. 13 WEST FIFTY-SIXTH STREET, NEW YORK The Only Rue de la Paix House in America _| thentic models. Preferable though OW SHOES are in evidence earlier and more generally than ever before. New designs abound, but out of hundreds only a few emerge to be accepted styles, and, as for 63 years, the Alexander label will be found on these au- it is to be fitted in the store, our competent Mail Service makes it practicable to secure the correct styles early, whether one lives in New York or elsewhere. Enquiries Invited. April 5th to 10th a display unique FIFTH AVENUE =| Women's Brown Brogue $14 Andrew Alexander 548 Fifth Avenue, New York Rest assured- HERE fashion dictates and good taste has highest expression, Hartmann Ward- tobe Trunks are most distinctively in evidence. The Hartmann Trade-Mark denotes quality. c- Yar . WARDROBE TRUNKS

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YELLOW ROSES Fannie Heaslip Lea’s Story (Continued from page 158) Person—for which you—and I—owe fate a grudge. Otherwise, I have an odd feeling we might have meant rather a lot to each other. Do you remember I suggested some- thing of the sort the first night I met you— and you laughed at me, I can’t quite for- give you that laugh.” Lila stood up suddenly. with conflicting emotions. running too fast for her. “Show me your pictures and things,”’ she said, ‘and don’t talk any more about me— I’m tired of myself!” “As you please,’ said Fortune briefly. He accepted the rebuff without comment. They lingered before the pastel of the bayou and made calm knowledgeable talk about the Beardsley drawing. “Your things are really awfully gooa,” said Lila. She was beginning to hope she might presently get away from it all—to pack her trunk and bind up her wounds alone—when Fortune stopped before St. Chrysostom, “This chap’s not bad,” he said pleasant- ly, “but, do you know a He broke off at Lila’s cry of genuine horror. “Oh!—” she wailed— “what have you done to the angels?” Then she, too, stopped short, crimsoning — her chin to the wave of her soft black air. Ninon and Manon regarded her fixedly, grim as Ethiopians, all their adorable fair- ness smirched and gone beneath a layer of black paint. Even their tiny hands were blackened. “Why—there were some men up here after dinner the other night,” said Fortune slowly,” and one fool who’d had a bit too much got hold of some blacking—what do you know about the angels?” Lila tried to meet his eyes and failed. The color burned in her face like a flame. “You've never been in these rooms be- fore——”’ Denny, having finished his nocturne, be- gan upon a polonaise, with a thunderous murmur of hoofs in the bass. Above his nervous splendors Mrs. Allain called sud- denly: She was dazed The current was “Bob—you’re neglecting us!” “Be along presently,’ Fortune called back to her with a touch of finality that precluded further invitation. He swung Lila about with an unrelenting hand on her slim soft wrist. “Look at me, please!” Lila lifted heavy eyelids—and dropped them. She set her teeth and shut her free hand tight. Her pride was writhing. “You have been in here before?” She managed bravely: “T haven’t said so.” “How did you know then—” Fortune’s voice took on a sudden husk. “Was it you—Lila? Id give half my life to think it was you—that left the yellow roses— and the book! It wasn’t, of course—that would be too much to hope for—but if it wasn’t—what are you blushing about? I never saw such a blush—you’re absolutely beautiful. ... ” “Oh, let me go!” steadily. ‘Please!—please “It was you,” said Fortune, very low. The cool gray eyes were shining. She was in his arms before she could turn. “they'll see you!” “not from here—Lila, tell me it was you!” “You know it was!” “Then you-——”’ “T’ve been so unspeakably mortified His heart was beating like mad, just un- der her cheek. He kissed her, while the world stood away from them, “Then you were alive—all the time?” “Not nearly so alive—as now—” whis- pered Lila, the shameless. He kissed her again—as she perhaps knew he would, when whispered Lila un- ? ” she said it. But she had not known how he would kiss her. “There may be heaven 9 Mrs. Allain called once again: “Bob—you’re neglecting us!” And the world slid back into groove. “Coming!” said Fortune. He went back to his guests with the Rose of the World on his coat. Not that they saw it, of course. its old THE ACQUISITIVE CONNOISSEUR Elizabeth Lounsbery’s Article (Continued from page 72) sources, continued to remain in use until the tenth or eleventh century. Then the fashion and decoration of the furniture of Christian Spain became influenced, as time advanced, by Moorish, Gothic and Renais- sance art. Throughout the Middle Ages the fur- nishings of the eating-, sleeping- and living- room, which constituted the apartment of a great seignior, were much the same all over Europe. The dominating object of this room was the bed, which occupied one cor- ner and was converted into a decorative feature by its costly canopy and coverings of velvet and silk. In earlier medieval times the sleeping-bed had been of iron or bronze, but now, in the fourteenth century, richly carved wooden beds of enormous size were introduced. ‘These often rose so high above the level of the floor that a set of steps was necessary in order to climb into them. These steps were portable and were sometimes made of solid silver. An in- ventory dated 1574 of the estate of Dona Juana, sister of Philip II., even mentioned a silver balustrade, weighing a hundred and aa pounds, that was placed around a Besides the bed, a variety of chairs, which included the ornate tall-backed arm- chair used by the seignior himself, those in- tended for distinguished visitors, and the ordinary chairs, with backs reaching only to the sitter’s shoulders, were placed around the great fireplace. Members of the house- hold also sat upon carpets on the floor. With the introduction of Oriental influ- ence into Spain through the Crusades, fur- niture grew even more elaborate. Tapes- tries of Eastern manufacture were now in general use for decorating floors or walls. Draperies of wonderful brocades, embroi- dered in silver and gold thread, and cur- tains made of priceless skins contributed to the sumptuousness of decoration. This love of luxury continued throughout the Renais- sance. A popular and indispensable article of furniture in every medieval Spanish house- hold was the caja de novia or bridal-chest, the counterpart of the Italian cassone. In fact, chests in all dimensions, from the tiny jewel-casket to the arcom in which were stored clothing and large objects, were used until near the end of the eighteenth century. The Spanish Moors, on the other hand, following the custom of their fellow Mus- sulmen throughout the world, used but little furniture. Their preference for bright colors and ingenious craftsmanship led to the introduction of costly carpets, colored leather wall hangings, carved wood ceilings, silk and leather covered cushions, rather than furniture. Cushions became symbolic, even with the Christian Spanish, as a seat of honor. During the sixteenth and seventeenth cen- turies ponderous chests, stools, armchairs with massive nails and coverings of velvet and leather came into use, and wall paint- ings and portrajts replaced the tapestries of earlier times. The vargueno or cabinet, standing on an elaborate base and provided with a drop- leaf front like a desk and many small draw- ers, was another popular article of furni- ture in this period. In the manufacture of velvets, brocades and other textiles, as well as in guadamaci- leria, which was the art of decorating leath- er with painting, guilding or impressions in relief, Spain became famous. Cordova so excelled in the decoration of leather that it became known as “Cordova leather’, rather than guadamecil. Spanish iron work of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries was no less celebrated, while the glazed earthenware of Seville and the Hispano-Moresque lusters were unique in their beauty and decoration. Artistic carpentry and wood-carving of Old Spain produced, among its most typical examples, window-grills, ceilings and decorative doors, such as were found in the Alhambra. Elab- orately carved choir-stalls and altar-screens were another expression of this art. “The Blue Room’, Cosmo Hamilton’s novel beginning in May, touches a side of mar- riage which will continue to provide a dificult chapter in the book that no human being will ever have the temerity to write, called “Howto be Happy though Married”.

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PARIS 164 SO PARIS OPENINGS DECREE (Continued from page 85) tion greeted the appearance of a quartet of youthful evening frocks—one of yellow taf- feta with a close-fitting corsage above a full, slightly draped skirt starred with vivid blue flowers; one of rose taffeta with a close corsage above a skirt showing a great puff of taffeta supported by a wreath of flowers just in front of each hip, one of old blue taffeta with a draped skirt; and one of mauve taffeta, the shape of which I do not now remember, but which was most charming. Mme. Jenny features the ruche. A tailored model of black serge has a three-quarter coat, the lower part of which is of white organdie trimmed with several crosswise ruches of black serge—ruches made of strips of serge cut in points on each side—the points finished with a picot edge and closely plaited. A pretty straight manteau of black satin, sewn with silver paillettes, has a yoke of white organdie, to which is sewn several round closely plaited fluffy ruches of black satin, A short smart jacket—almost a basque —of black satin with a long close sleeve, slightly wrinkled about the arm below the elbow, is finished with a thick ruche of black satin just at the top of the hips. A dainty frock of white organdie is trimmed, on the edge of each of the three flounces which cross the skirt-front, with a ruche of or- gandie threaded with gold. This frock is girdled with a blue tulle scarf tied in the back, the ends falling below the skirt-edge. One blue serge frock is girdled low about the hips with white organdie. Several frocks are embroidered with straw, and several models have collars of straw “fur” in brown or gray. One dark blue frock has an enor- mous collar and cuffs decorated with red- leather appliqué—an elaborate design cut from leather and stitched on. Jenny uses much dark blue and black serge and gabardine, much taffeta and much galloon ciré, satin ciré, and mousseline cirée. There is a transparent metallic mousseline, lovely in vivid blue, which is employed for evening frocks. There is a little embroidery, several pailletted frocks and some dainty tulle creations, and many practical, ample cloaks—usually with sleeves, the cape hav- ing almost disappeared from the Jenny salons. There are a few evening frocks, short-skirted, with long slender trains, and the collection contains a number of charm- ing, practical one-piece frocks of serge, generally straight and easy in silhouette, girdled very low about the hips. Lanvin Jackets Have Short Capes ME. LANVIN shows the panier again this season, in afternoon gowns and evening frocks. ‘The skirts bulge at the hips and are flat in front and back, as they were last season. Exquisite is a model of old rose organdie over black silk. ‘The organdie corsage is round-necked and sleeveless, ex- cept for a broad band over the shoulders, and the transparent muslin skirt is ex- tremely bouffant over the slender black slip. This rose overdress, bound all about with rose muslin, is open up the back almost to the top of the corsage, and the whole is girdled with black taffeta ribbon tied in a bow in the back with long ends falling almost to the skirt-edge. There are two models of this sort—one opened up the middle back and trimmed in front with bands of insertion of small tri- angular folds, and the other open up the front and embroidered flatly with great roses done in narrow rose ribbon. Both frocks are lovely. The Lanvin skirts are short. One pretty model is closely plaited across the middle back and middle front, the two plain edges overlapping on the sides. This skirt, which falls very straight indeed, is pretty under the new straight Lanvin blouses which are drawn down over the skirt-tops to the broadest part of the hips and adorned with small smart pockets. Another Lanvin skirt in serge is very straight and narrow under loose-falling serge panels about six inches in width, which swing loose prettily in walking. Most striking are the Lanvin hats of sil- ver galloon, which are worn with tailored frocks of dark blue serge embroidered or braided with silver. There is much of this silver trimming on tailored and one-piece frocks, and one very smart dark blue cloak is striped lengthwise across the back and front almost to the hem with silver em- broidery and girdled with small linked plaques of silver. The effect of bright sil- ver braid, three-quarters of an inch wide, on dark blue serge or black taffeta is start- lingly new, and the small severe silver hats are extremely smart. Lanvin shows a new collar which appears on several cloaks and other garments. This is a padded roll of serge or silk about three inches broad and an inch or more thick in the middle back, which tapers to a vanishing point at the fastening infront. Odd indeed is this collar, and one is not quite sure one likes it—but it is new. Many capes are shown this season—cir- cular capes scalloped on the lower edge and gored in to fit the shoulders, where they are collared inconspicuously, falling straight in front. One of these is of dark blue velvet, and one of rough Scotch plaid in red and black. Many of the tailored jackets have short capes swinging from the shoulders— either attached permanently to the garment or easily removable. Taffeta frocks are numerous, particularly panier models for evening wear, the wide skirt made from the hips down of embroi- dered cream tulle. One of these in bluish mauve is wreathed at the hips with a gar- land of silk roses. Another, all of mauve- blue taffeta, is embroidered on the front with beads and adorned with little swing- ing bead tassels, Martial et Armand Make Much of a Basque ARTIAL AND ARMAND’S skirts are short and of varying widths. Some are straight, some flounced, some show a bustle-like puff below the girdle in the back, some fall out in draped “wings” just back of each hip, some are plaited, some are almost plain—but all are pretty. Some of the jackets are closefitting to the waist-line with a slight effect of width at the hips, others fall straight from the shoulders and others again, rather short, fall straight and loose in the back and are belted closely across the front. Much is made of a little basque, or ca- saque—a very short jaunty little jacket-like corsage, which tops many of the smartest frocks. Many of these smart little garments are of taffeta above frocks of taffeta, lace or muslin. One of dark blue serge, very short and cut in squares—that is, slashed— on the lower edge, is bound all about with bright yellow, and the plaited skirt below shows a striking design in squares of yel- low running through the plaits. One fetching little basque is of white or- gandie, closely overlaid with narrow straps of white kid. The basque is close-fitting and is embroidered with black down the front, flaring sharply in the very briefest of “tails” over the black taffeta skirt. An- other is of black taffeta over a skirt of white muslin, while there are many of taf- feta over taffeta skirts. The sleeves of these little jacket-basques are occasionally long, but usually very short and often form small shallow puffs at the shoulders. Some of the Martial and Armand models show the raglan shoulder, which is smart in a beige raincoat, three-quarter length and rather straight, stitched with black to form a slender plaid. Another raincoat of gray rubberized cloth with a velvety surface has a dolman-like pouch across the shoulders in the back—the pouch trimmed across with wide gray lace insertion laid over yellow figured crépe. The top of this coat in front is made of yellow figured crépe, and a great patch of gray lace insertion is placed low on each side. Several models show this dolman effect across the shoulders—sometimes minus pouch, the back being rather straight and flat with a sort of dolman sleeve on each side. Prettiest of these simple wraps is a smart model of dark blue serge, trimmed all about with a box-plaited ruffle about three inches wide. The wide straight serge collar is also edged with this plaited ruffle, which forms an unusually pretty trimming. Martial and Armand’s models this season show a great deal of trimming. There is much embroidery in silk, metal, raffia and leather, some braid—usually ciré—stamped leather girdles and other ornaments of leather, linked girdles of galalite or metal, monkey fur, lace, flowers and feather trim- ming. There are two or three jackets of satin ciré, which looks like blue leather, and several frocks of striped stuffs com- bined with plain serge or some other plain fabric. Especially pretty is the delicate tracery of silver-stitching on black taffeta, and the dainty designs stitched in black on white organdie. A circular, plaited cape of black taffeta, collared with black monkey, shows three great splashes of silver embroidery— one in the middle back just below the shoul- ders and one on each side across the arms. The taffeta is cut away in the spaces be- tween the rows of stitching, showing bits of the color underneath. One of the loose little jackets of black satin is decoratively stitched with gray, and Mme. Vallet herself wears a frock of black taffeta with a plaited tunic, which is stitched prettily with silver. Martial and Armand show a number 0 very smart models in dark blue serge which resemble frocks when viewed from the back, but which open in front like cloaks over (Continued on page 166)

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The Shield Whose Name You Know j 5 i HERE is no cure for dissatisfaction that is nearly as i pieasant as its prevention— “buy knowingly look | for the dress shields you have always known by name— | Kleinerts. I. B. KLEINERT RUBBER CO, 719-725 BROADWAY, NEW YORK CITY Sanitary Goods, Hose Supporters, Tourists Cases, etc. -= || Also makers of Kleinert's Baby Pants, Rubber Sheeting, | | Up to the present time it has been almost impossi- ble to get a face powder to stay on the face longer than it takes to put it on. You powder your nose nice- ly and the first gust of wind or the first puff of your handkerchief and away goes the powder, leaving your nose shiny and conspicuous, probably just at the very moment when you would your best. A specialist has at last perfected a pure powder that really stays on; that stays on until you wash it off. It does not contain white lead or rice powder to make it stay on. This i improved for- mula contains a medicinal powder doctors prescribe | to improve the complex- | ion. In fact, this powder § helps to prevent and re- duce enlarged rores and give anything to appear at. irritations. It is also astring- ent, discouraging flabbiness, crow’s feet and wrinkles. This unusual powder is call- ed La-may (French, Poudre L’Ame). Because La-may is pure and because it stays on so well, itis already used by over a million American women. All dealers carry the large sixty-cent box and many dealers also carry the generous thirty-cent size. | ‘When you use this harmless powder and see how beauti- fully it improves your com- plexion you will understand © why La-may so quickly be- | came the most popular beau- | ty 5a der sold in New York. We will give you five | thousand dollars if you can buy a better face powder anywhere at any ‘44 price. Herbert Roystone, Al Dept. B, 16 East 18th Vy New York. Save | Oh, tragedy! The second broken golf club! She would be utterly in- consolable except for the comfortable consciousness of her becoming CONNELLA Flanne! Blouse. CONNELLA FLANNEL Those who feel the lure of green grass and open sky choose CONNELLA. It adds enjoyment to every sport —from hoop and kiddie car to golf and tennis, canoeing and tramping. When you meet men in CONNELLA shirts and women in CONNELLA blouses with children clad the CONNELLA way —then you know you’re among friends— real people who appreciate the smartness, the comfort, and the durability of CONNELLA—the genuine. NEVER aN SHRINKS REG. EL Ly Hannel, Obtainable at All The Best Stores E. “MConnell & Co. 13-21 East 22 St., New York PRET ELE Fi BE 4 = Dl S, y or 82 = oo or zine | NA J

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MMM ahs OT APODEREDOBEDETNOEDIUACE)ADDOOBT TEODIARY TTD E oe SU eminent: Sal¥Syrd \ ENTS) , ws CORDELLE O connoisseurs of beauty and crea- tors of fashion, the new PENIKEES novelty silks conjure up alluring vis- Other PENIKEES Silks ions. Forcertainlytheyareunrivalled ae in their adaptability to th iling mod eroerussan in their adaptability to the prevailing modes. DUVETYN P P inlet Ts Prieto When one considers their exquisite distinction Crepe Meteors of weave, their rare loveliness of color, and Satine the subtle sheen that shifts and changes with Charmeuse “a Poplins every move of the wearer, it is easy to translate Georgettes them into terms either of sportwear picturesque Faille de Soie f —— ° Silk and Wool or tormal Wear luxurious, and Printed Noveliies Rhapsodé, Chimerai and Cordellé are all quite as lovely as the weave illustrated —Sylva-Spre. You cannot be disappointed in a PenrKees Silk. Carl Schoen Silk Corporation 26 Fourth Avenue, New York J in De TC SO PARIS OPENINGS DECREE (Continued from page 164) satin or some other tissue. In the same way what is apparently a frock of pervenche taffeta, when unfastened, reveals most sur- prisingly a muslin frock underneath. Much lace is used—black, white, cream and rust- color—and as always a number of trans- parent wraps of tulle and lace are shown over delicate frocks. Very smart are the flaring collars of sheer muslin which top many of the models of the collection—some of white muslin, plaited, one of white mus- lin bordered with a Greek design in toile cirée, and one of bright green muslin edged with a thread of steel above a dark blue serge frock embroidered with steel pail- lettes. Many Loose Falling Panels at Deeuillet’s AS always, Deuillet shows a number of smart tailored frocks in dark blue serge, very light gray bure and beige gabar- dine. The skirts are short and not too narrow, some of the jackets are closefitting to the waist-line and flaring slightly below, and some are rather less closefitting to the top of the hips, where they break out in little ripples over the flounced skirt-top. One half-length blue serge jacket is fin- ished with a flounce of gray, blue and red plaid tissue over a plaid skirt. The plaid jacket-flounce is aitached to the blue serge top at a line running from a bit below the top of the hips in the middle back to the normal waist-line in front. The line of the seam is covered by a curved band of blue serge, which is fastened in front with two buttons, the plaid flounce being rounded away below. Some of the Deeuillet jacket-sleeves show a kimono shoulder, and some are cut raglan style. One or two rather wide sleeves are shirred on to the kimono top at a few inches below the top of the shoulder, re- sulting in an effect of width at the elbow. Some jacket sleeves are long and straight, flaring gradually to the wrist; and to some of these sleeves is added a tight cuff. A one-piece serge frock shows a tight corsage buttoned in the middle front with three narrow flounces rippling out over the hips. The front and back of the skirt fall straight and flat. Some one-piece frocks are rather straight in silhouette, with pan- eled skirts slightly plaited. The sleeves are almost invariably short, extending to the middle of the upper arm or to the elbow, and the corsages are open at the throat. Only a few frocks show the panier effect, although there are many frocks with loose- falling panels on the sides—panels often of crépe Georgette, embroidered, on frocks of soft crépe or thin satin. Many frocks are embroidered—some very elaborately, others showing only a few decorative splashes of embroidery in colored silk or raffia. One pretty blouse of white percale is painted by hand—the result resembling somewhat an Indian “print.” It is trimmed all about with silver galloon. Odd is a little jacket of rather heavy white tussor, belted with black varnished leather show- ing touches of bright red leather. Very short, this jacket ripples out sharply on each hip and is trimmed with pointed bits of tussore, stitched on flatly all about the edge. The Deeuillet evening frocks are grace- ful and delightful in color, and the evening cloaks of brocade—a pretty one is made of black taffeta embroidered with silver—are gracefully ample in shape and decorative in line, Behold the Bustle at Premet’s! REMET features bustle drapery—quaint pouched-out puffs or loops of taffeta in the back below rather close corsages, which extend only a trifle below the waist-line. This butterfly drapery is at its prettiest in evening frocks of taffeta. ‘The corsages are low and rounded, or straight across at the top, and the sleeves—if any—are very short. The skirts are either flat or very slightly draped across the front—in some cases a smart “apron” of taffeta falls over the slen- der underskirt—and the drapery is often in the form of two great “crush” loops of taffeta, one at each side of the back or ar- ranged one over the other with a slightly one-sided result, which is very fetching. In plain black taffeta scalloped on the edges, in black taffeta showing a small spot of red embroidery, in brown taffeta flecked with silver white, in rose taffeta with silver lace and a garland of flowers—all these butterfly frocks are lovely. One of the smartest is developed in black taffeta com- bined with black and white plaid. Another shows many outstanding loops of vivid blue ribbon above black tulle. Premet shows also a number of rather straight frocks girdled low about the hips— the girdle tied in a picturesque bow at the side-back. One of these is fashioned of yellow and black foulard and trimmed with sheer yellow organdie—a narrow strip of yellow organdie with a picot edge forming a dainty cravate. The frock is girdled low about the hips with a yellow taffeta ribbon knotted low on the right side in the back. Many one-piece frocks of serge and other wool stuffs appear in the collection—straight simple creations, often with plaited skirts, sometimes with the frock-top joined to the skirt at the new low line across the back. Several of these models in dark blue serge are bound and trimmed with narrow black galloon ciré. The Premet tailleur is rather slender in silhouette—the jacket fitted to the waist- line and flaring easily below or rather straight in line and girdled closely about the waist. Very smart is “Riviéra”—a vivid blue wool jacket over a_blue-and- black plaid skirt. Many of the tailored skirts are box-plaited—the plaits little more than an inch wide. In striped stuffs the effect of these plaits is very odd and new. Quite like leather is a Premet model of brown satin ciré. The lining of the coat is yellow and the sleeveless blouse under- neath is yellow also, widely striped with bluish gray. The jacket of a pretty tailored frock of dark blue twill is trimmed about the edge with several rows of galloon ciré, the stiffness of the braid giving a slight flare to the lower part of the coat. Premet shows an astonishing number of pretty muslin blouses under tailored jackets. Sheer and lovely, these transparent trifles are trimmed with picot-edged fluted ruffles, tiny tucks or embroidery. Usually sleeved to the elbow, the front of the blouse falls straight from the shoulder, and is length- ened out low on the sides, forming a girdle which fastens across the back. ‘The front is then tucked crosswise a bit at the waist- line, continuing the belt effect, and the very short “apron” is trimmed with a ruffle which finishes the edge and climbs, on the sides, to the shoulders. Premet features English embroidery on white muslin, on plaid foulard—the edges of the cut-out spaces bound with silk—on red kasha where the embroidery is worked with blue thread, and on dark blue taffeta where the small open spaces are embroi- dered with red, blue green and every color, resulting in a wonderfully rich effect. Sel- dom, indeed, does one see such lovely em- broidery as adorns this frock. Smart among the cloaks and wraps are two striking creations—one a belted, pock- eted sports coat of thick white wool cross- barred at very wide intervals with wide broken bands of green and black. The plaid is enormous and the coat is very “sporty” and generally fetching. The other—‘Der- nier Bateau”—is of coarse gray mixed cheviot, embroidered in bands with red wool and belted with gray and red leather. The wide collar and the cuffs are finished with crocheted red wool, Delicately lovely are the organdie frocks, embroidered slightly and trimmed with picot-edged fluted ruffles. Not only do these ruffles edge the skirt and sleeves, but they form also a sort of appliqué trimming, ar- ranged in circles and embroidered on to the sheer organdie. The Oriental Influence Sways Poiret EEING the Poiret collection is like voy- aging far into the Orient, so much of the glamour of the East is diffused by the won- derfully rich robes which M. Poiret has designed for the spring season. The f¢issues are superb. The color is handled as only Poiret can handle it—daringly and most successfully. Tissues of silver and purple and gold, embroideries of a richness indescribable, wonderful brocades, stuffs of rich red and green with grays as sober as a dove’s wing and the rich black of inky satins and rain- bow-tinted tulle go to make the spring frocks of the Maison Poiret—to whom our felicitations! Poiret shows again the panier in street frocks, as well as in evening and afternoon gowns. The famous tunic is seen again in a wonderful gown, with an open-fronted tunic of rich blue and black and gold bro- cade posed low about the hips of a tur- quoise blue mousseline slip embroidered richly with silver. This transparent blue slip falls over a “harem” skirt of silver tissue, and the brocade tunic, short in front, droops to a pointed train in the back. Many draped frocks appear in the col- lection, notably a graceful afternoon gown of black satin and black tulle—the deep V of the corsage finished with two narrow plaited gold ruffles. This frock was shown with a hat of dark foulard, having a large white spot. Some of the Poiret models are trimmed decoratively with ruffles applied in various (Continued on page 168)

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Without doubt the most beautiful : wall papers are those to be found in the collection of Thi- baut. Thibaut Wall Papers areselected by experts whose only thought is to give to the public, wall Unusual Shirtings, Cravattings, Hosiery, papers correct in Handkerchiefs, Pajamas, Robes, Etc., of every detail. Thi- Exceptional Quality baut means quality. Orders by Correspondence will receive our most S en d for our Particular Attention — State colors preferred. 66 Home S erv j ce Chart” and let our J. Sulka & C& ompanup 5i2 FIFTH AVENUE-NEW YORK Interior Decorator PARIS - 2 RUE DE CASTIGLIONE submit samples suit- a “| able for every room in your home. Ask True Economy At Its Best for edition 3627. Ostrich feathers are more susceptible to Te- modeling and re-dyeing than any other part of woman’s attire. The METHOT WAY of reconstructing discarded feathers restores them to their original beauty and usefulness. It is amazing what METHOT produces from dis- carded feathers—things that years ago were thought impossible. Ostrich Fans, Turbans, Fancies and Dress Trimmings, made from your OLD feathers at a great saving. Methot THIBAUT WALL PAPERS DECORATE 34th Ostrich Fans, dyed to match your costume. Ostrich and Marabou Neckwear remodeled. Trade Mark Street Prompt Mail Service. French Feather Dresser and Dyer H. METHOT, © 29 west 3TH STREET (3 doors from Oppenheim, Collins Co.) Second Floor. Take Elevator ‘ hii Mi iit i Mi i ree | i} HI Hh Set . ah dae ~xIT 20 To the decorator who wishes to handle the best and most up-to- date line of artistic wall papers, we have a most attractive prop- osition to offer. Wall Paper Specialists MADISON AVE. at 32nd St. NEW YORK “MADE STRONGER—WEARS LONGER” Sfor The Largest Wall Paper Of finest pace hair, in shades Lt po Lene f Micetias te an: Ghani own. Ata good stores, or we will send prepai 6 Ni Pea : eowine Re . Also —"‘UNIVERSAL” (All Over) Flat Shape Hairnets at the same prict. oe 2 aan ten tae oe Swaback— 45-5 105 East 16th Street : —=—=—S> e ork City) 3621 Broadway pecan 7 HYMAN & OPPENHEIM Dept.H New York City ‘ : ial . ‘ : BRONX BROOKLYN NEWARK BOSTON aie > 7 O Za SS . 485 Willis Ave. Flatbush & DeKalb Aves. 141 Halsey St. 96-98 Federal | Ste 167

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TULL LLL Miss Roberta Arnold who has captivated us all in the new play Adam and Eva,—selects a Joseck Spring Sport Suit to emphasize her own striking beauty. THE NARROW SHOULDER AND FITTED SLEEVE EFFECT GIVES Jose kK, CREATIONS THE GRACE:.AND BEAUTY OF CUSTOM MADE GARMENTS WITH THE EASE AND CONVENT ENCE OF READY TO WEAR. CREATED BY NEW YORK — PARIS THE SMARTEST HOUSE IN YOUR CITY SHOWS freech,crexmons, WITH ABOVE LABEL, SIMOUL ANEOUSLY WITH THEIR APPEARANCE IN NEW YORK. COMMUNICATE DIRECT wap IF NOT SHOWN JN YOUR CITY y) : OE.S0™ST. NEW YORK ESTABLISHED 19 YEARS UULAUEUUUALEREUEROTA HOOD An unusual and very attractive Callot costume was seen abroad one day in Paris. and scarf-like cape edged with raccoon. It was made of loosely woven tricot and its short narrow skirt The Scotch plaid coat next it was made by Martial et Armand and fringed at collar and wide hem. SO PARIS OPENINGS DECREE (Continued from page 166) ways, and several skirts were formed en- tirely of flounces. One dark blue serge frock, rather straight in line, is ruffled across the front only—a ten-inch wide ruf- fle of serge embroidered with gray and steel thread rippling out from the waist-line. Exquisite is ““Madone’—a straight gar- ment of softest grége crépe falling straight from the shoulders over a slender robe of black satin embroidered with gray. The frock is girdled with an open hoop of metal, which crosses the back and ends abruptly just in front of the hips. Two or three models show a collar like a great cuff rising from the shoulders—odd and new. All the Poiret collars, indeed, are odd and interesting. Much is made of very finely plaited ruffs of sheerest white muslin, which rise unexpectedly about the face or finish pockets and low collars. Several graceful wraps of different tissues —one of rich soft old blue crépe is lined with a curiously brilliant foulard—falling toga-like from the shoulders and gracefully thrown about the figure, are shown in the Poiret salons, with two or three short capes of brilliant brocades and printed muslin bordered with gold. Odd are the Poiret hats—lovely and pic- turesque. One little inverted bowl of gold and black brocade with a bride of gold cord passing under the chin is trimmed on the top with a spreading gold tassel. An odd broad hat of strawberry red taffeta— the crown made of blue-bordered petal-like sections of taffeta overlapping at the top— is trimmed with two vivid blue cords and tassels, one falling from under the brim on each side, close to the face. Poiret shows many practical day frocks of blue serge, always with some pretty touch of color or some new and fetching detail in design. Some of the skirts are plaited and fall straight. Some are gathered on to an easily fitting corsage and fall straight with an easy fullness over the hips. Some are exceedingly slender in silhouette, and some are widened more or less at the hips. Sleeves are all lengths, but are often short. However, one remembers the Poiret collection principally for its great beauty of color and the daring quality of the designs. Picturesque Collars and Gilets at Maison Bulloz ULLOZ shows some 1830 models, some panniers, and, very wisely, some straight frocks. One pretty feature of the collec- tion is the picturesque collars and gilets of white or tinted muslin or lace which appear on so many frocks of serge and taffeta. A frock of dark blue serge, for instance, is very slightly distended at the hips by means of a stiff embroidery of straw in different shades of yellow, and the blouse-gilet of yellow muslin is very finely plaited. A jacket of gray taffeta, closefitting to the waist-line and flaring in ripples below, is adorned with a collar and jabot of gray lace, edged delicately with black velvet. And the long taffeta sleeves flare suddenly at the wrists over frills of gray lace. Some of the close-fitting jackets—flaring sharply from the waist-line—are worn over skirts of some other ¢issue. For instance, the gray taffeta coat, described above, is (Continued on page 174) A great many coats worn in Paris during the daytime have loose bloused backs, and not a few of them are fashioned of gay- ly striped or plaided fabrics.

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Smart School Frocks PLAIN little gingham school dress can be made effectively smart if it is trimmed with Omo Bias Tape. Omo Bias Tape is an attractive trimming which will last as long as the frock itself. You can get it in thirteen widths and in various weights, from sheerest lawn to heavier materials—all carefully cut to fit trimly, with- out a pucker. For binding seams, buttonholes, trimming rompers, tub dresses and countless other things, you will findOmo Bias Tape invaluable. Always keep it on hand.

If you would like a liberal sample of Omo Bias Tape write for our Booklet 25-B “In Fancy Work and Dressmaking’’ and both will be sent you free of charge. THE OMO MANUFACTURING CO. MIDDLETOWN, CONN.

ee

ELSA BARSALOUX The Yarn Shop 400 Fifth Avenue, New York (Opposite Tiffany's) A shop devoted exclusively to Yarns and original creations in hand knitted and crocheted gar- ments. Complete stock of Fleisher’s yarns in the most popular and up-to-date colors, such as Menthe, Hedgewood, Pigskin, Peachblow, Crocus, Grotto, Lily, Ashes of Rose and many others in Floss. Also the new Silverglow, a_ beautiful Silken Floss, and a complete line of knitting and crocheting silks. Ladies’ Filet ‘Crocheted Tuxedo with Short Sleeves, in Silverglow. Complete Model (as il- PND <x Nacwaeneddsincestoa geben $30.00 Dame MOG Mi TAG... ccvccccccscosesece $25.00 Materials for making same with instructions. 13—1 oz. balls Silverglow..............+. $6.75 or 13—1 oz. balls Shetland Floss............ $6.10 FREE :—Assistance by expert instructors and PRINTED —e given when materials are purchased at the § A

Katharine Brown Katharine Hartshorne

'

Interior Decoration

829 Park Averant New York

ity N} STYLE No. 79. PRICE $8.50 Made in a good quality plaid tis- sue gingham, organdie trimmed, with ruffle of same material.

“Miss Economy” Presents Another Charming a Vv Dress Suitable for Street Wear It will be shown in April at shops where quality counts. In addition to its appealing style, this new model is a typical example of QUEEN MAKE value in material and workmanship. It is the third of the famous QUEEN MAKE “Economy Sale” features, and offers a timely money’s worth for thrifty women. If not at your favorite dealer’s—send us his name and we will see that you are supplied. I. GINSBERG & BROS. Sole Manufacturers of QuEEN Make Dresses for Morning, Porch and Street Wear. Nurses’ and Maids’ Uniforms. 102 MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK

Corner 76th Street Telephone Rhinelander 4170

lish hand blocked chintz piped in color, the cost of the f iia” which relies for its decoration on a charming Eng- furnishings as shown would be about $650.00.

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a6 Cn Ma NODR THE STORY OF FRENCH PERFUME After the Crusades, perfume came into more general use and appre- ciation. The gallant Knights brought back from the far East rare and wonderful perfumes as gifts to their Ladyes. Today, the World’s best perfumes come from France, and Quelques Fleurs, the master product of the master perfumer of Paris, is the most H exquisite. Quelques Fleurs is the r knightly gift from the marvelous H flower-fields of France to Ladyes faire / of our time. It is the Aristocrat of Perfumes! ‘Karis Master Perf tmer |) ae | uelgues d ; « ‘. / a y Ori . S. 4 22 oo 1 The worldy most exquisite perfume » FOUND ar sant SHOPS EVERYWHERE % H PARK & TILFORD | SOLE AGENTS IN THE UNITED STATES Dy || 529 W- 42 nd Street NewYork Sample on receipt of 35 centy Houbiga iI IN THE VANITY SHOPS flowing silhouettes of the Far East are now the inspiration of many of the world’s leading modistes and couturiers. Alluring as this vivid plumage of the Ori- ent may be, it has a drawback, for, while it enhances the brunette, it is all too likely to extinguish the lovely blonde. There is, however, a way out—not through the adap- tation and modification of strong Eastern colors to suit delicate Occidental complex- ions, but vice versa. By means of especially compounded powders and rouges, the fair faces are transformed—for the time being that is—from dainty pink-and-whiteness into glowing café-au-laitness. It is whis- pered that the Parisian boulevards are now thronged at the fashionable hour with fas- cinating olive-hued beings, whose narrow slanting eyebrows and mellow complexions suggest that the houris of Mohammed's paradise have descended to visit the great- est of world capitals. A great French perfumer and cosmetic maker, who has for many decades supplied the most luxurious women of the Eastern harems with the powders, lotions and rouges best suited to their dusky beauty, now pre- sents a ravishing assortment of toilet acces- sories to those Occidental blondes, who would appear for the moment as brunettes. Would you follow the transformation? A pate rouge of ruddy tone is first applied to each cheek just underneath the eyes and over the cheek bone. Cherry, Carnation, Rosebud and Egyptian Poppy are the warm tints used for these pastes, which are very soft in consistency and rub well into the skin, giving the happy impression that the glow arises from the underlying cuticle. Over the pate a softening powder should be applied. If the blonde, for example, pre- fers to all others a clear but pale olive complexion, she may attain it by choosing a shade called ambre; if she would be darkly olive in coloring, Havana should be her choice; if sunburnt matte coloring is her ambition, ochre is the nuance for her; if ruddiness, rather than brownness, be her aim, bistre should be used, while Mahar- anne and Begun, as their names suggest, give varying degrees of intense brunetteness to the underlying complexion. Eyebrows and lips as well as cheeks, chin and forehead must receive a special treatment if Orientalization is to carry con- viction to its beholders. An eyebrow pen- cil, black or brown, should be used with dexterous art to tip the straightish Occi- dental eyebrow-line at its outer end thus suggesting the long almond setting of the East. Lipstick also should be used in order that the pale lips of the North may assume the rich flowerlike bloom of the East and South. But it is still not enough that face, eyes and lips be treated with these care- fully compounded rouges, powders and pastes. If the illusion is to be complete, neck and shoulders—and in this day of transparent hose, insteps and ankles as well—should be carefully treated with the same nuance which is applied to the face. A charming exponent of the Orientaliza- tion which may be achieved by means of the pate rouge and the nuances of this well- known French house, is an admired Ameri- can dancer, famous for her agile grace, ex- quisite clothes, but above all for her rich Rajput coloring. Her couturiers dress her oftenest in brilliant green, vivid red and dazzling gold and orange. One has but to behold her thus clad to realize that Ori- entalization has achieved its complete jus- tification. Underlying skin and tissue must be fine in texture and firm in quality, be the pig- mentation fair or dark, and at no time is it more imperatively necessary to treat them for these qualities than towards the sea- son’s end. A delicious tissue cream is to be procured from this French firm. It is soft and delightfully refreshing, but above all it will give vitality, firmness and youth- ful glow to the facial flesh and to the com- plexion, if gently massaged into the face Tie brilliant hues, exotic motifs and each night. It comes in white, and for the colorless complexion, in a lovely blush rose tint. The prices of these preparations are for the rouge pate, $.50, for the face powders ennumerated, $1.50 a box, for the tissue cream, $1.00 a jar. S° rarely fragrant is ambre gris, so desired of all sybarites, that it has been fought for by nations, stolen by bandits and sung by poets. One at once suspects its presence in a series of luxurious toilet requisites now offered to the fastidious by a certain for- eign firm. The preparations, richly redo- lent of pomp and court, form an impressive array, packed as they are in coverings and cases of a mellow ivory color, with distin- guished designs in dull gold and unobtru- sive green. A face powder is here, ex- quisitely fine and of beautifying tints— truly fit for a queen, as are the talcum and vanishing cream which accompany it. A woman groomed with these must be soignée indeed. These highly desirable preparations cost as follows: the face powder is $2.50a box; the vanishing cream is $1.75 a jar; the talcum is $1 a case. A valuable cream may be obtained from this firm, which answers the double purpose of cleansing the skin and building it up. Spread lightly over the face and then wiped off almost immediately, it removes dust and soil; well-massaged into the skin and leit on all night, it will greatly enhance the beauty of the complexion. A tube costs $.75 or $1.25, and a jar $1.50. A cold-cream soap is a happy addition to one’s toilet equipment, especially in town and during the winter, for it keeps the hands soft and smooth and white, despite cold and dust and frequent washings. Such a soap is to be obtained from the same house. Matured for eighteen months be- fore leaving the place of its habitation, it has no soft center, but is intensely compact and enduring. Indeed, it is quite wonder- fully beneficial for one’s face, as well as for one’s hands, and may well be used each morning as a preventive of chapping and a preservative of beauty. $1 is the price of this useful cake. Perfumes and toilet waters of de luxe quality are to be obtained here. One epi- curean blend bears the name of a great Ro- man family—a name which suggests pa- tronage of the fine arts and appreciation of everything that is exquisite. The liquid looks like golden Sicilian wine, and smells like an Italian garden in early April, while to complete the delightful atmosphere, the label bears as its emblem a cameo profile in white against a dark laurel-green back- ground. A two-and-one-quarter ounce bottle of perfume comes at $6.75, while the toilet- water costs $3.75 for a three-and-a-half- ounce bottle. The mystery of the blended perfumes is very delightful, but there are many who still cling to the extracts which are unmistak- ably violet, rose, jasmine or heliotrope. Here are thirteen such flowery fragrances, smelling—oh, so deliciously—of carnations or lilies or violets, or other fresh garden or hothouse flowers. Triply compounded, they are bottled in dear little flasks of Baccarat cut glass, each containing one-quarter to one-half of an ounce of liquid and costing $3.75 each. What, again, could be more perfect for a gift than one of these distinguished little bottles? Are not the poets fairly bubbling over with delectable lines, which couple scents and flowers with lovely brows or eyes or cheeks? A verse appropriately at- tached to some one of these fragrances would have for the recipient the great charm of beauty and novelty, and would remind her insistently and agreeably of the sender! If one’s affection expresses itself in gifts of large dimension, one could flatter one’s inamorata with a flagon-like container of one of these extracts, for it may be had in a capacious bottle costing $150. (Continued on page 172) Note: Harper's Bazar will send you the names and addresses of any firms mentioned above; or, if you wish, will be very glad to purchase for you any of the articles described. In ordering, send cheque or money-order payable to Harper's Bazar, with a letter telling just which articles you desire. Please include 4 cents on the dollar for luxury tax, and 10 cents additional for postage on all toilet articles. Address Harper’s Bazar Shopping Service, 119 West 40th Street, New York City, N. Y

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Fo wees er a 3034 — Smart coat effect dress of black Crepe Meteor, enhanced with Jet and dull beads. Short kimono sleeves, with buttons and buttonholes to match those on skirt, which may be plain hem, or harem effect. In one of these _ infinitely smart black gowns or blouses, your own personality becomes % the dominant thing. fj Whatever style you choose, it is sure to be your favorite garment, for it will not only be most becoming, but you can wear it successfully for any occasion. If it’s a Raven- /j Hue, you know it’s correct. Write for Booklet ‘“C,” showing new Spring modes ay store from whlch You pres er to buy them. NATIONAL BLACK GOODS CO. 25 West 31st Street New York Styles for Mourning and Dress Wear Look for the. Dustproof Moulding on the trunk you buy. You will be sure you have a safe trunk. Mendel-Drucker Trunks are made in steamer, wardrobe, dress and hat types and in all grades. Nrite for booklet and the name of your nearest dealer. Nee a speck. ust” ip USTPROM tl TRUNKS HERE is great satisfaction in knowing that when you unpack your trunk there will not be a_ particle of soot or dust on your daintiest dresses, however long and dirty the trip. Because of its famous exclusive feature, found on no other trunk, you always have that assurance if your trunk is a Mendel Dustproof. And besides it is a famous trunk known as baggage of distinction in the great hotels and at the fashionable watering places in America and Europe. It is the choice of the people who know—everywhere. THE MENDEL-DRUCKER COMPANY Department E Cincinnati, Ohio REAL FRENCH HAIR NETS The old original quality $1.00 a dozen; worth double “SLIPPON” cap shaped Hairnets in small or large sizes $1.00 a dozen; worth double We can furnish any kind or shade of Hairnets. IMPORTERS Rue Bleue 3, Paris GEORGE ALLEN, Inc. 1214 Chestnut Street, Phila., Pa. “FRINGE” straight shaped Hair- nets in extra large size White and Gray Hair- nets in cap or straight shape. $1.50 a dozen Mailed free anywhere by insured Parcel Post Established 1829 —=—[—=—=—=—=—====~—_—____=_—_ RE DUC Heahedguraly Three slices of Basy Reduces your weight What one woman says: Doctors’ Essential Foods Co. Orange, N. J. Dear Sirs:—I have eaten your bread for five weeks and have lost ten pounds. Very truly yours, Mrs. W. McB., Sewickley, Pa. DOCTORS’ ESSENTIAL FOODS CO. Bread a day - - in a natural way Your friends must have told you about Basy Bread now recognized as the standard weight reducing ration. Basy Bread is not a medicine or drug, but a wholesome and delicious food, scientifically prepared. By simply eating three slices of Basy Bread a day, thousands of people have regained their normal weight. No dieting. No medicine. No irksome exercise. You will be very much interested in the Basy Booklet, which is an authoritative statement on Obesity, ‘ts cause and cure. Write for your copy today. 39 Oakwood Avenue Orange, New Jersey How to Find the Cream You Need Stand in a good light — examine your face carefully in a mirror, and then— Study this Chart Acne Cream—for pimples and blackheads. Astringent Cream — for oily skins and shiny noses. Combination Cream— for dry and sallow skins. Foundation Cream—for use before face powder. Lettuce Cream — for cleansing in place of soap and water. Motor Cream—for skin protection, before expos- ure. Tissue Cream — for wrinkles and crows’ feet. Whitening Cream — for freckles and bleaching. You do not experi- ment when you use Marinello Creams. Their value has been established by use in more than 4000 Beauty Shops and employ- ment by millions of NELLO Marin! ae The advice of Marinello Experts may be secured at 1404 Mallers Bldg. Chicago 366 Fifth Avenue New York Marinllo Company Marinello Toilet Prepar- ations may be had at all Drug Stores, Department Stores and Shops.

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Customer: No! | don't think I'll take that corset. It hasn't the Velvet Grip Hose Sup- porters. Corsetiere: We can easily change those for Velvet Grip ‘“‘Sew-Ons''—put them on gladly for you. Many of our best customers are requesting this done lately. ELVET GRIP “Sew-Ons” can be attached to any corset—the easiest thing in the world to do. It is always well to have a set of them handy to replace the inferior hose sup- porters found on so many good corsets today. The unique feature of the ‘“Sew-Ons’ is the same as of all genuine Vertis HOSE SUPPORTERS —the All-Rubber Oblong Button which prevents slipping and ruthless ripping. LOOK FOR THE OBLONG RUBBER BUTTON— “THE BUTTON THAT TALKS FOR ITSELF.” EORGE FROST COMPANY Makers BOSTON 11) ESRD? of The Complete Synopsis BLACKSHEEP! BLACKSHEEP! P to the time that Archibald Bennett where Bill Walker, a former denizen of the met Isabel Perry at a dinner given by underworld, has retired with his wife and his sister, Mrs. Howard Featherstone, daughter and keeps a sort of underground he had never done anything but enjoy poor station for his former lawless associates, health. Isabel ironically advises him to There they meet Red Leary, to whom the cure himself by embarking upon a career of | Governor gives the stolen money acquired crime. Still pondering her advice, he goes in Cornford, and who declares that he is up to Bailey Harbor, Me., to look at a about to settle down to a humdrum life of summer home, owned by the Putney Cong- respectability. During the evening at the dons, for his sister. A heavy storm compels Walkers, Archie becomes so interested in him to spend the night in the deserted the daughter, Sally, that he readily con- house, and while there he finds a telegram __ sents to aid her in an elopement, which she from Mr. Congdon to his wife demanding has planned, by taking her to the Brattle- the custody of their two children. Every- boro railroad station in the Governor’s car. thing points to Mrs. Congdon’s hasty flight To his amazement Isabel Perry is also at with the children. the train. In the night Archie is awakened by a The Governor and Archie go to New burglar, who escapes after being shot. He York, where the latter becomes the former’s decides to avoid all consequences of this guest in a well-appointed establishment, and encounter by setting out at once for the meets the Governor’s sister, a woman of railroad station. On the way he is accosted __ refinement and distinction. She confides in by an individual, who calls himself the Archie that she fears for her brother’s “Governor”, and who mistakes Archie for safety and asks him to safeguard him. one Hoky. Hoky, the Governor explains, Archie promises, and after several adven- had undertaken to rob a country place the tures, during one of which he is present previous night and had failed to return. when Mrs. Putney Congdon’s daughter is Archie concludes at once that it was Hoky _ kidnapped by the order of her father-in-law, he had shot and poses as a fugitive from he sets out with the Governor for Roches- justice. The Governor then proposes that ter, N. Y. There he and the Governor go they make their getaway in a roadster, unbidden to a dance and meet Ruth Hast- which he has stolen for this purpose. They ings, the young woman with whom the Goy- visit a rendezvous of thieves, dress them- ernor is in love, and Isabel Perry, who hap- selves in stolen clothes, and, after camou- pens to be her guest. flaging the roadster by repainting, journey Finding out where the Congdon child is to Cornford, N. H., where they secure pos- hidden, they decide to kidnap her and turn session of fifty thousand one-dollar bills, her over to Isabel and Ruth. At the Ohio which Red Leary, one of the Governor’s farm Putney Congdon is discovered and confréfes, had stolen and hidden there. for the first time Archie finds that he is not Here Archie comes upon Isabel Perry in a murderer. Congdon is sure that he him- the inn, where she is inquiring for Mrs. self killed the burglar, Hoky, and throws Putney Congdon. When Isabel discovers himself on Archie’s mercy. In the mean- that Archie is traveling under an assumed time, Ruth and Isabel secrete Edith Cong- name, she accuses him of spying upon her don in Isabel’s camp, and the Governor and takes the next train out of town. News- leaves Archie to handle Congdon, the dis- paper reports now lead Archie to suspect trait husband father. Mysterious happen- that the man he shot at Bailey Harbor was _ ings at the Congdon farm indicate that the Putney Congdon. older Congdon is connected with a com- From Cornford the Governor and Archie panion of the Governor’s in an amazing proceed to a farm near Brattleboro, Vt., counterfeit scheme. BLACKSHEEP! BLACKSHEEP! (Continued from page 124) he again scanned with sophisticated care and stowed away carefully in his pocket. “Now, sir; let us get down to business. If you will promise me never again to make another will without consulting me, but will let this one I’ve kept stand, and if you further agree not to interfere any further with your son’s family or his wife or his children, or his ox or his ass or anything that is his, for the rest of your natural life, I'll guarantee that in due season you'll leave this tug a free man.” “You can do that; you are sure you can save me?” Eliphalet’s voice shook and his hands, thrust out appealingly, trembled, as he turned from the Governor to Archie. “My friend can do what he says,’ said Archie. “You may trust him.” “TI promise,” said the old man steadily. “But I must see Putney and explain about the coins. It was more in a spirit of play- fulness, a curiosity to know how such things are done.” “TI dare say it was, and I’m sure you'll not repeat the offense,” said the Governor, lighting a cigarette. “As to Putney, I'll arrange the meeting as soon as possible.” Eliphalet Congdon was the last man Archie would have expected to yield to the Governor’s wizardry, or hypnotism, or what- ever it was that caused people to submit to him; but the old man’s face expressed in- finite relief now that the Governor had so insolently assumed the réle of dictator in his affairs. The pathos in the weazened little figure, stripped of its arrogance, and the assertion of a long-latent kindliness in his countenance, encouraged the hope that happier times were in store for all the Cong- dons. (To be concluded in the May issue) “TI began life as a lawyer,’ he said coolly, “so you needn’t fear that I'll not respect the sanctity of these experiments in the testamentary art.” Archie, taking and refolding the wills as the Governor finished reading them, mar- veled at this unexpected revelation, let fall in the most casual fashion, as was the Gov- ernor’s way. “Tt’s evident from the dates of these wills that you’ve been steadily cutting down the amount of your bequest to your son,” the Governor was saying, “so that if you died to-night he’d receive only a hundred thou- sand dollars, the remaining million or two going to humane societies, and one fat plum, I notice, to a Home for Outcast Cats. The eccentricities of testators have never impressed me by their humor, particularly when hatred and revenge are behind them. You would malevolently cut off your own blood merely because your daughter-in-law doesn’t like your manners, which are bad; or because your son wouldn’t fall in with your fantastic schemes of making money dishonestly. I suppose you’ve had a good time flourishing these wills before your son and his wife when you were peeved, to let them know how you planned to punish them. Watch me, Archie, so you can bear witness to the destruction of these things; they’re all going to feed the fishes except this earliest one, which divides the property in generous lumps between Putney. Cong- don and his children, with a handsome per- sonal recognition of Mrs. Congdon. That shall be preserved.” Eliphalet sullenly watched the Governor as he tore the papers into bits and flung them to the wind, all save the one, which IN THE VANITY SHOPS (Continued from page 170) brighten these dull drab tresses. It does not color the hair, but gives to the lack- luster strands tone and sheen. A packet of this powder costs $.50. HE women of the drama are ever alertly alive to the newest and most effectual productions of the great beauty experts. Many of the most beautifully coiffed ac- tresses of the present season, be it known, are using a remarkable shampoo powder recently put before the public, which is as accessible to the spectator in loge or orches- tra chair as to the leading woman behind the footlights. It may be due to the ner- vous strain of our bustling life, it may be due to long periods of extremely drying artificial heat, the result is, alas, too evi- dent! No matter what the cause may be, the hair of most American women grows perceptibly duller after the early twenties. But here is a shampoo powder that will ELICIOUSLY fragrant is a perfume of- fered by an exclusive Fifth Avenue firm. The rare liquid is enshrined in a heavy flask, oblong in shape with a flat dis- tinctive stopper, and may be had in one ounce and in half-ounce sizes. Encased in a little box of blue and gold, it would be a desirable addition to the most exquisite of toilet-tables, while its distinctively re- fined aroma lends an added elegance to the most finished of toilettes. The ounce bottle costs $10, the half-ounce $5.

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NEW YORK shed Isp” / ‘ OC OLA’ ONFECTIONS % el WWW WIIG i| ts EAGLE CHOCOLATE FOR EATING AND DRINKING Sold Only by Franklin Simon & Co. GUIDES A BABY’S FOOT THE WAY IT OUGHT TO GROW BABY’S foot — five little dimpled toes to be hidden away inashoe! How canmother tell that the shoewhich coversall this pink loveliness gives every littletoe room to }rowand stretch and affords all the tiny supple bones just the right support ? Ages 1 to 2 Y The answer is the Specialist 2 het au Shoe, designed for baby’s first Sizes 2 to 5 ‘ steps by an orthopedic surgeon, $ 5 00 dnd sold exclusively by Franklin Simon & Co. Of tan or black kidskin, or white buckskin, laced, flexible hand sewn turned soles. Jranklin Simon 2g Co. Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Sts., New York Children’s Shoe Shop—Third Floor

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VAN RAALTE: Siuk Hosiery SO PARIS OPENINGS DECREE (Continued from page 168) placed over a black satin skirt. A change- able blue-and-black taffeta jacket is worn over a skirt of dark blue serge, and a yel- low and black plaid jacket—a sports coat this—is worn over a black cloth skirt, bands of black cloth edging the jacket. Bulloz trims a number of dark blue frocks with dark blue lace, and trims a frock of gray-beige serge with many rows of red soutache. Very pretty is a frock of delicate black lace, the flounces weighted with jet bead embroidery. The unlined lace sleeves are very long and widen at the wrists, where they also are trimmed with jet beads. Some pretty Bulloz models are of brown taffeta. A graceful frock of blue satin, combined with black, is trimmed with a sort of embroidery of silver tubes—dquite the prettiest of all the tube embroideries one sees about. And these tube embroi- deries, by the way, are done with tubes of crystal, leather, metal, wood or cloth! Egypt Inspires Madeleine et Madeleine ONE of the most striking features of the collection of Madeleine and Madeleine is the position of the waist-line which, placed at the top of the hips, droops low in a rounded line across the back. The straight narrow back of the skirt is usually attached to the long straight corsage back at this low line, which rises on the sides to the top of the hips and often loses itself in drapery across the front or disappears under a girdle. Another pretty feature is the puffed sleeve —a short spreading, coquettish puff flaring suddenly from the slightly dropped shoul- der-seam and as suddenly gathered into a narrow band. The entire sleeve, puff and all, extends no lower than the middle of the upper arm. This sleeve, in taffeta, appears on frocks of taffeta, while frocks of dark blue serge are finished with delightful little puffed sleeves of white organdie, often trimmed with frills. Madeleine and Madeleine make much of white organdie, fluted or plaited frills of this sheer stuff trimming frocks of all sorts. Flaring in ripples about the neck of a frock of serge or taffeta, lining the fronts of a dark blue serge cape, peeping in the form of an underskirt from under a blue serge frock, bordering widely a frock of black taffeta—half concealed with great splashes of vivid blue embroidery—everywhere one sees trimmings of crisp white organdie. Pretty and odd is the new metal trim- ming which adorns many frocks in the col- lection of Madeleine and Madeleine—most effective on a frock of black taffeta called “Voulez-vous.” This is a trimming made of slender circular silver rings about half an inch in diameter sewn flatly to the silk, one against another, with decorative stitches of red, white and black silk. Wide bands of this metal ring embroidery with short puffed sleeves and smart drapery across the front of the frock make of ‘“Voulez-vous” a very lovely garment. Very lovely is a frock of black taffeta with a long corsage draped slightly across the top of the hips in the back and finished with a rounded apron-tunic across the front. The corsage and apron are of cream-colored organdie, with an eyelet embroidery done in metal rings—that is, instead of being embroidered with thread, the small open spaces, not more than a quarter of an inch in diameter, are rimmed with slender rings of gold. The effect of this embroidery is most delicate and lovely. The gold em- broidered apron is bordered with taffeta and is crossed at a low waist-line by a taffeta girdle. Much metal is used in the collection of Madeleine and Madeleine. A dark blue serge frock, for instance, is embroidered with small gold nail-heads, and a slender straight frock, called “Osiris”, is almost covered with metal ring embroidery. Many of the creations of Madeleine and Madeleine were inspired by the art of an- cient Egypt—embroideries, tunics, head- dresses and the low hip waist-line. At the same time the frocks are modern, wearable and pretty. Skirts are short at this house, which fea- tures the short puffed sleeve, the long wide plaited sleeve flaring from a short close top, the hip girdle, the draped frock front —folds caught up on the left hip in front and finished with a decorative bow—and the organdie frill. Skirts are narrow, and, if actually rather wide, still preserve a slender silhouette to which the crisp folds of drapery lend much charm. Tailored frocks show sometimes the low seam at the hip, flaring slightly below. Sev- eral capes were shown—one of black satin was lined with brilliant green gabardine— with tea-gowns of great loveliness and eve- ning frocks of much grace—slender gowns sometimes slightly draped, with low cor- sages and no sleeves, trimmed with pail- lettes and embroidery. But an extraordi- nary number of frocks are made of taffeta. At Charlotte and Germaine’s One Finds Crinoline N the collection of this new maison, now only in its second season, we find many smart models of taffeta with rather small close corsages above skirts which are more or less wide at the hips—either distended with the crinoline lace which is at once so light and so wiry, or frankly distended with half-hoops of baleine, or merely gathered full on each side at the waist-line, the nat- ural stiffness of the silk resulting in a pretty widening of the skirt at or below the hips. One frock of brown taffeta, with the co- quettish corsage so featured by Charlotte and Germaine, has an apron front—a sort of apron-tunic made of five taffeta ruffles, one fulled on to the other, so that the skirt- front flares a bit fanwise from just below the waist-line. The ruffles, instead of being sewn exactly one to the other, are separated by a narrow doubled band of brown mous- seline which forms a sort of trimming— just one of the many pretty touches which make the models of this house so attractive. A frock of dark blue foulard patterned with white is ruffled from waist-line to hem just back of each hip with foulard edged with fluted organdie. A great double frill of fluted organdie forms a collar across the back only. This frock, very pretty, is called “Coup de Vente.’ A brown taffeta frock is trimmed on the lower part of the skirt with green silk embroidery and narrow green grosgrain ribbons shirred on in a decorative design, forming a sort of ribbon embroidery which is most effective. A dark blue tailored frock shown by Charlotte and Germaine has pockets of red embroidery, and a bright green tailored frock is given red pockets of a different sort. The tailored skirts are short and narrow and the sleeves long. A white serge tailleur with outstanding pockets strapped with toile cirée has a waistcoat of black toile cirée, embroidered and edged with brown. A rust-brown cape of cheviot, cross-barred with black and white—the black stripes running one way and white stripes the other —is trimmed with great patches of ¢oile cirée fitted into the plaid and stitched across in exactly the same pattern with black and white thread. Charlotte and Germaine show a number of evening frocks of tulle or lace over silver tissue. One of the prettiest is veiled with vivid blue tulle embroidered with silver about the hips, the blue tulle falling much below the silver underskirt, which is trimmed with silver lace. Two pailletted frocks—long pear-shaped paillettes—one in steel and one in black are very graceful, and there is a smart sports coat of black taffeta embroidered with threads—hardly more—of white leather stitched on, which is admirable. Redfern Hints of the Bustle EDFERN’S tailored frocks are slender in silhouette with short skirts, long sleeves as a rule, and jackets which flare slightly from the waist-line. The skirts of the eve- ning frocks are hung over a foundation of finely plaited mousseline—a slender slip which preserves the desired slim silhouette under drapery or transparent skirts of tulle. Corsages are rather closefitting, and the top of one dainty wide-skirted frock of change- able mauve taffeta is tightened to the figure with small darts—two on each side-front under blue straw embroidery, the skirt being attached at the hips. Redfern makes many frocks of taffeta— one of black taffeta trimmed with full- blown pink roses being especially graceful —usually draped towards the back with just a hint of the bustle effect. However Redfern, while suggesting the panier and the bustle, does not accentuate these styles. The drapery is not too bouffant nor the panier too large, being merely a widening of the silhouette at the hips. Molyneux Box Coats OLYNEUX shows a number of smart tailored frocks—usually loose box coats over narrow straight skirts or simple one-piece frocks. The skirts are short, and the sleevés are long and rather close fitting. The silhouette generally is slender. There is much gorgeous brocade in evening frocks and tea-gowns, some wonderful metallic gauzes, embroideries of straw, appliqué— leather appliqué—beads and silk, some striped stuffs, some foulard in odd new de- signs, much beautiful crépe de Chine, serge, kasha, gabardine, silk Jersey and satin. Very smart and pretty is a loose coat of dark blue wool tissue over a simple one- piece blue frock widely striped with gray— (Continued on page 176)

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Saree eta signage a> ‘ } NN 2 ~e > ) DOROTHY DALTON )% wearing a | Sport Suit |} ‘Viyella Unhsrinkable , FLANNEL Created by LUCILE, Ltd. **Viyella" is sold in the eapenony asmade-upgarments [| yy most first-class stores. WM. HOLLINS & CO. } Limited 45-f East 17thSt., New York 62 Front St., W.. Toronto The N ESTLE Permanent Hair Wave SS 7 KFS } ma ae | q' me Why abuse your hair and that of your chil- dren by curling it every night when you can have a permanent-wave in your own Home? Try the new Nestle-Home-Outfit, price $17.50 Over 8,000 sold in the United States Illustrated Booklet Free Ld ~ C. NESTLE CO., Giattsina Steet’ New YORK Original Inventors of Permanent Waving Telephone Plaza 6541 175

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EQUALLY SMART IN THE SMALL OR LARGE SIZE is ths latest CREPES Sait in embroidered Tricotine hustrating why Large and Slender omen alike. are irresistibly attracted ay he SUITS TAILLEUR FROCKS #& WRAPS Ghebrated t for their hong, equalizing lines, incomparable custom- tailoring, and atmosphere cosmopolitanism2. Svery model ‘inPariably> deve eal mn sizes JO to $0 or la er e the Slk. of Joven Worth" is used as living in 4 oi ra Communieate with the tors~ SALOMON, BLUM & CO, ine 112 Madison Avenue ~ New Yorks ocoserif a ‘ you eannot obfain tailleure at your favorite shop | a te ere we bul. ; | 7 > eteete SO PARIS OPENINGS DECREE (Continued from page 174) the gray stripe forming a border all about the edge of the straight jacket. The striped frock is open in a narrow V in front—the opening edged with two rows of bright red tubular beads—and the jacket is finished, a bit more than an inch back from the edge on the inside, with a row of red beads. Rather closefitting and flaring slightly over the hips is a jacket of white kasha, pocketed and edged all about with braid. The narrow straight skirt is striped regu- larly lengthwise with braid. Odd is a straight jacket of white kid bordered on the edges with gray suéde and lined with gray-figured foulard—a gray flying goose on white satin—which is worn over a white satin blouse bordered also with gray above a straight plaited skirt of blue crépe de Chine. A single gray goose, cut from the foulard, is embroidered on to the blouse on the right side at about the bust-line. A pretty afternoon frock from Molyneux is fashioned of biscuit-colored tussore with a gold leather girdle and a flounced skirt— the slightly fulled flounces drooping on the sides and curving up and overlapping in front. A smart straight afternoon coat of Chinese yellow tissue is embroidered with blue and jade in a Chinese pattern—a round spot of this embroidery being posed on the middle of the back of the coat at about the waist-line. The coat is lined with foulard of a Chinese pattern, the design being accentuated with embroidery. Molyneux shows many gorgeous eve- ning frocks of gold, silver and brocade, trimmed with silver tulle, lace or galon, and a number of slim, draped neutral- tinted frocks of a wonderfully rich quality of crépe de Chine, often with narrow, loose- falling trains—Tanagra-like and lovely. The beautiful mannequins of the house glide through the rooms in wonderful tea-gowns of silver and gold trouser-underdresses un- der loose coats of brilliant metal brocades or vivid tulle. The straight-falling skirts of metal tissue are divided into trousers at just below the knee, fitting the leg closely from that point to the instep. One of these, in gold tissue, fits the leg and ankle gaiter-fashion, and is held under the instep by a double chain of brilliants. Lelong’s Models Recall the Eighties ELONG this season sounds a new note in fashion. In general the waist-line has dropped to the top of the hips, some models being girdled at almost the broadest part of the hips, the corsage above being draped slightly crosswise and the skirt below—not too wide—falling simply in soft folds. This new silhouette, in which nearly all is corsage and very little skirt, is very pleasing. There is nothing rigid about the new silhouette, which suggests the styles of 1880. The long corsage fits the figure easily and the short skirt—sometimes little more than a ruffle attached to the corsage —is always graceful. A frock of dull blue figured taffeta is softly draped about the figure with a long corsage effect, the skirt being drawn back and slightly up in the middle back, very much in the style of forty years ago. Charmingly quaint is this slender frock. “Petit Duc” is a one-piece frock of gray serge stitched with old blue—two long tucks widening downward from the bust- line on each side to below the hips. Grace- ful and pretty is a slender slip of dark brown taffeta under a three-quarter length blouse of thinnest white mousseline, em- broidered with creamy white. Straight and narrow, this blouse is girdled very low about the hips with a ribbon of rich blue faille knotted with roses. Lelong shows a slender, slightly flaring coat of cream white cloth with twin turned- back folds of brown satin in the back over a brown satin skirt with cloth-lined folds tapering from the hips to the skirt edge. A trained frock of black paillettes is trimmed with circular splashes of gold pail- lettes about the hips. A dainty frock of sheer white mousseline with a very brief corsage has a skirt made of flounces of deep scallops of muslin, each scallop edged with a narrow frill of fluted muslin and embroidered in the middle with a small flower cluster done in colored raffia. The Lelong silhouette is very interesting. The long corsage is pretty and should be very becoming to any slender figure. The very wide transparent tulle sleeves which appear on thin frocks are odd, and the fluted muslin ruffles which trim frocks of mous- seline and taffeta are dainty and fetching. Mme. Rolande and the Apron OLANDE shows several striking models in black. and. white,.oddest of which is a simple flounced frock of white piqué girdled and sleeved—the sleeves are short —with black velvet. The front of the cor- sage, and the flounces on the side of the skirt in front are trimmed with cut-out wheat-ears of black velvet, embroidered on with straggling stitches of black thread. Very pretty is a simple chemise of black taffeta open all the way down the front, the turned-back revers faced with black and white plaid taffeta. Over this chemise Mme. Rolande ties an apron of checked taffeta, topped with a sash of black taffeta lined with the plaid silk. The long sash ends tie on the side in a smart bow. Mme. Rolande makes much of this apron, which in different materials appears often. An all-black Rolande model in satin js embroidered in a sort of an allover design with jet beads. The narrow black girdle is finished in front with long tassels of bright coral beads, and the sharp note of vivid color on the black is very pretty. Equally effective is a frock of black and nasturtium- red—the sleeveless corsage of black lace, the skirt made of a Rémond plaid crépe Georgette in black and brilliant red and the girdle of narrow nasturtium-red velvet rib- bon, the knotted ends falling low on side. Rolande shows several frocks of moire— one in pale yellow with full loops of moire flying out tunic-fashion on each side, with a girdle of old blue ribbon wreathed with dull-toned flowers loosely encircling the waist, and one of rose moire trimmed with crystal beads—long, loose, wide loops of moire, beaded, forming the skirt above the close straight sleeveless corsage. The skirts at the house are short, the line more or less straight, sleeves long or short—any length, in fact—but never wide. The girdle, often placed at the top of the hips, is never very tightly drawn. Some of the skirts are widened a bit at the hips by loose-swinging panels, which often fall a bit below the skirt-edge. Rolande uses some satin ciré, some silver and gold tissue, a little feather trimming and some flowers and flower petals loosely sewn on. And she makes many frocks of foulard, ‘Flying’ Panels at Renée’s ENEE shows the low waist-line above skirts which fall softly, with oddly shaped loose panels flying out on the sides and drooping often below the skirt-edge. The skirts are short—perhaps just a trifle longer than last season’s—and are wider in effect, the apparent width being often due to the loose panels which are arranged usu- ally in an intricate fashion. Some sleeves are long—one shows an inserted panel of accordion-plaiting topped with a bit of smocking below the short close shoulder— and some are wide, loose and transparent, embroidered sometimes with chiffon folds. Renée features this embroidery of chif- fon—little “stringy” folds of chiffon, which are sewn on-to the tissue in a pleasing arabesque. Pretty is “Poker” in black satin, with this chiffon embroidery done in red and orange all over the back panel of the frock, on the sleeves and corsage-front. At a short distance the result resembles black-and-red figured foulard, but the em- broidery is actually in relief, and the red and orange pattern is very decorative. This trailing design of chiffon appears in red on blue crépe Georgette, in bright green —fan-shaped green flowers with silver tracery on black taffeta—and in brilliant red, again accompanied with silver tracery, on bright green taffeta. Straw embroidery decorates many of the Renée models—often a narrow fringe of glazed straw sewn on in circular or fan- shaped motifs or in straight rows. The apron-tunic of a black taffeta frock is al- most wholly fashioned of fan-shaped patches of black and brown straw fringe sewn on black mousseline, so that in spite of the stiff- ness of the fringe the tunic is perfectly soft and may be folded in the hand. The low rounded top of a black taffeta corsage is filled in with straw fringe in green, brown, red and black sewn in straight-across rows. Frocks of dark blue serge are trimmed with a sort of mosaic of bright-colored bits of leather, or small circular discs like con- fetti of every color, and there is much galon ciré and white organdie ruching. The Renée tailored jackets are simple in shape, usually half-length and tightened in sharply at the waist-line by means of little darts which are sometimes outlined with braid. ‘The skirts are short and narrow, and the jackets are worn over open-necked, short-sleeved blouses of bright brown, green blue or white kid, embroidered with white or black. These blouses are drawn down over the tops of the skirts. In evening frocks the panier appears again developed in taffeta, tulle lace and embroidery. One very graceful frock is embroidered all over with black and bright green paillettes—the skirt with great panier- like trailing wings of tulle. Besides, Renee shows a very smart cloak of black satin, lined with cerise velvet and trimmed with monkey.—van Campen Stewart.

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SSeS H 379 mo... ie Tan Russia Jan with Fawn Buck Sand Buckskin Black with Gray Buck Black _ Russia Black Russia Price $202 Black Buckskin Price $17%° J%?J SLATER 415 Fifth Avenue New York City fi H170 Ester with Gray Buck Tan with Sand Buck Tan Russia Black with Gray Buck Patent Leather Ratent with Black Buck Price $]7° Pace $172 A individualisw ) ty Good Furniture’ —is expressed and is exemplified in the ' ome fees F pat) on a |} AZUREA i The FACE POWDER &efoa Made by L.-T PIVER Serie France William and Mary chair here _ illus- trated —made pos- sible only by many years of application to period designs exclusively. Fragrant in its Greeting- Accidents Exhibited at a ok tate og often produce painful if not serious all better class Lingering in results, Whether it is a pounded furniture shops. its Farewell thumb, a bruise or a cut, for safety’s sake treat it immediately with [Th Flin 4] ‘Simonds \Company) Furnsatarcre 15 cents brings a dainty’ BEAUTY BOX with generous samples of ALUREA Face Rowdeds Sachet Powder and Perfume, Syra .¥ es BAEZ Sole Agent forU.S.and Canada pt. Fr 24 East 224. Street New York City the handy and dependable hom doctor that always brings relief. Absorbine Jr. is an antiseptic, germicide and liniment combined—healing and soothing, ringing prompt relief from aches and pains and preventing little cuts and bruises from becoming serious. bw be used with absolute safety by children grown-ups. It does not stain and leaves no oily residue. $1.25 a bottle at your druggists or tpaid. A Liberal Trial’ Bottle sent for 10 cents in stamps. W. F. YOUNG, Inc. 135 Temple Street Springfield, Mass. ry —

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— “And then, through a beautiful actress, I discovered home Electric Massage ! Ba sa stage beauty, a radi- 4 iant, youthful woman, who has been famous for years, confided to me that electric massage is the one daily lux- ury that she insisis on having. As a matter of fact she told me that this is not a luxury but an absolute necessity. So I bought a ‘tar’ and I'm delighted !” Likewise, to every woman who is not satisfied, unless she looks her very best, at all times, home electric massage is the one health-and- beauty treatment she can rely on. She knows that massage, when properly applied, will keep her complexion clear, fresh and colorful; her hair and scalp in the pink of condi- tion; her figure supple, attrac- tive and of youthful contour. Today more than half a million Star Electric Massage Vibrators are being used dai- ly. Hundreds of women have Clectric the Star Haz written us that they are de- lighted with the almost mag- ical results that The “Star” has wrought with their once muddy, unattractive complex- ions; stubborn, coarse-looking hair and unwelcome body blemishes. Don’t the experi- ences of these other women prove to you that you, too, can recreate your skin, your hair, your youthful contour ? Such beautiful women as Grace Davison, Corinne Grif- fith, Evelyn Gosnell, photo- play stars shown below, and scores of others, use and en- dorse the Star Electric Mas- sage Vibrator. Geta “Star” today. Price $5.00 for com- plete outfit. At leading drug, department and electrical- goods stores or direct from us on receipt of $5 and your favorite dealer's name and address. (Price in Canada, $7.50.) Fitzgerald Mfg. Co., Dept. 225, Torrington, Conn. Vibrator For use in your own home Grace Davison 178 Corinne Griffith GHOSTS By H. 'ASHIONS change in ghosts as they do F in clothes. The first known ghost was a strange, crude being. There was no semblance to the human in his make-up. He was like a misshapen beast or hideous winged creature. He had to be like this, or primitive man would not have appreciated that he was a ghost—at all eyents would not have been terrified by him. Fortu- nately it took only a comparatively short time for the ghost to be emancipated from this linkage with the bestial. He became free, as man’s mentality developed, to ap- pear in less repellant guise. Yet he did not immediately take full ad- vantage of his freedom. He could not, be- cause the intelligence of man still was some- what limited, quite too limited to view ap- provingly a really attractive phantasm, or to comprehend such. Wherefore the ghost was obliged to label himself unmistakably. He did this by wearing the raiment of the dead, coloring his face a ghastly green and yellow, and moaning piteously. This at least was an improvement on the ghost of primitive man. But it must have been with a feeling of real relief that the more human ghost discovered one day that men were finding his graveyard procedure tedious, however awe inspiring, and were demand- ing something more up-to-date in the way of apparitions. Now the ghost began to don monk’s robes. Later he put on armor, and walked clankingly. Or, noting that the world was ready for feminine ghosts, appeared at times as a sad-faced princess. And presently be- hold him garbed precisely like ordinary every-day mortals, in a powdered wig, gay- colored coat, well-fitting knee-breeches, fancy stockings and buckled shoes. Keeping pace with the times, he now comes to us dressed like our immediate ancestors or like ourselves. Not always, to be sure, does he thus appear. The recent passion for the fantastic, it would seem, has infected even ghosts. So that to-day there are what may rightly be called Cubist or Futurist appa- ritions. Few of us have seen these, but the few who have seen them testify that they are in truth ferocious, terrible ghosts, throwbacks to the awful shapes that haunted primitive man, and often more repulsive than the de- graded ghosts of the primitive. To give you a definite idea of these most modern of all ghosts, let me describe one in the words of the person who saw it, Mr. Elliott O'Donnell. Mr. O'Donnell, I perhaps should add, is a cultured London gentleman, who can boast a more intimate acquaintance with Futurist ghosts than anybody else in the world. Consequently, his accounts of them are, of course, the most authentic available. Mr. O'Donnell tells us that on a certain warm Sunday evening he went for a walk in Greenwich Park. Finding a secluded bench, he sat down and gave himself to pleasant day-dreams, anticipatory of his approaching release from the uncongenial task of teaching school. He continues: “The bench on which I sat was directly beneath a very massive elm that promised to afford a capital rest for my back, and I was accordingly leaning against its trunk when an icy wind, blowing from above, made me glance up. “T then noticed, and not without some wonder, that the bark of the tree was not only disfigured by unsightly notches and protuberant gnarls, but bore indications of some malignant parasitical disease. “Kneeling on the seat in order to obtain a closer inspection, I was examining the trunk with interest, when a dark object seemed to descend from the sky, and some- thing came plump by my side. “T can never describe the awful shock I received, as, on turning round to ascertain what it was, my eyes alighted on a figure— half human, and half animal—stunted, bloated, pulpy and yellow, that was horri- bly suggestive of a moving mass of sar- coma, and which, crawling sideways like a crab, made for a bush opposite, into which it disappeared. “Of its nature I can only confess entire ignorance. I only know that it must have originated from the very lowest and most bestial order of spirits. “T did not wait to see whether it would return, but arising hastily from the seat I made tracks for the school—not to visit the Park again until the following autumn, when I took care to give that tree a very wide berth.” UT not all Futurist ghosts scamper into bushes. Their customary behavior is altogether different. As witness Mr. O’Don- nell again: “My youngest brother, Bob, was about to get into bed one evening,” he quotes a Mr. Talbot Browne, “when, to his astonish- ment, he found the clothes disarranged. There was a depression in the pillow and in ADDINGTON BRUCE the middle of the mattress, just as if some one had been lying there; and when he at- tempted to set the bed straight he touched an invisible object, which he could best de- scribe as cold, hairy and sticky. “The shock of this encounter at once be- reft him of speech and movement, and he became mute and motionless as a statue. At the same time he was all but suffocated by a pungent and highly offensive odor that was wafted up his nostrils. “T tried to move my head away,’ he stated, ‘but could not, and the abominable thing, whatever it was, slowly rose from the bed and, flinging two cold arms around me, was proceeding to drag me head first down, when, by a providential mercy, I managed to shriek for help. “ ‘That dissolved the spell, the phantom vanished, and on the entrance of several members of the family, I was discovered sitting on the edge of the bed, rubbing my head and neck.’ ” Decidedly, Futurist ghosts must be classi- fied as among the ghosts that the boldest of us would not wish to meet. But, let me hasten to add, they are not met so very often. From Mr. O’Donnell’s testimony, and that of others who have particularly concerned themselves with Futurist ghosts, it is evident that special—exceeding special —conditions must be present to put one in any real danger of seeing them. In this—as in much else—they differ from the generality of modern ghosts. Your aver- age ghost of to-day does not even need the aid of darkness to be able to get himself in evidence. Though it is true, like the ghosts of all time, he preferably manifests by night. And, unlike the Futurist ghost, there seldom is anything savage, uncouth, or menacing about him. At the worst he may have an expression of being somewhat worried. Nor is his coming always without obvious motive. Again and again he has been recorded as appearing for the specific purpose of conveying to the ghost-seer in- formation regarding distant events. HUS, to give a classic instance as nar- rated by the ghost-seer himself, none other than that hard-headed, unimaginative Britisher, the celebrated Lord Brougham: “A most remarkable thing once happened to me, so remarkable that I must tell the story from the beginning. After I left high school, I went with G , My most iti- mate friend, to attend the classes in the university. There was no divinity class, but we frequently in our walks discussed many grave subjects—among others the immor- tality of the soul and a future state. This question and the possibility of the dead ap- pearing to the living were the subject of much speculation, and we actually commit- ted the folly of drawing up an agreement, written with our blood, to the effect that whichever of us died the first should appear to the other, and thus solve any doubts we had entertained of the life after death. After we had finished our classes at the college, G—— went to India, having got an appointment there in the Civil Service. He seldom wrote to me, and after a lapse of a few years I had nearly forgotten his exist- ence. “One day I had taken a warm bath, and, while lying in it and enjoying the comfort of the heat, I turned my read round, look- ing towards the chair on which I had de- posited my clothes, as I was about to get out of the bath. On the chair sat G——, looking calmly at me! How I got out of the bath I know not; but on recovering my senses, I found myself sprawling on the floor. The apparition, or whatever it was that had taken the likeness of G , had disappeared. “This vision had produced such a shock that I had no inclination to talk about it. But the impression it made upon me was too vivid to be easily forgotten, and so strongly was I affected by it that I wrote down the whole story, with the date, De- cember nineteenth. Soon after my return to Edinburgh there arrived a letter from India announcing G ’s death, and stat- ing that he died on December nineteenth.” Lord Brougham’s strange experience is far from being the only one of its kind. There are on record numerous indisputably authenticated instances of similar fulfilment of death compacts. But, for that matter, to secure ghostly action at time of death it is not at all necessary for friends to make compacts for post-mortem visitations. Com- pact or no compact, it has happened in lit- erally thousands of cases, according to the testimony of reputable witnesses, that ghosts of recently deceased persons have appeared to friends still unaware of the fact of death. Sometimes, moreover, the ghost makes very clear the manner and circumstances of his departure from life. As in the following, reported by an army officer: “I awoke one night and saw standing by (Continued on page 180)

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ee Boe 6 6!dlhUd CUO Bs eee ae ig Sa eee ee | Jil sehine Hats Sports Apparel That Smacks of Piccadilly and The Strand at the shops of the SDAVECAS at the Commodore Hotel (NEW YORK CITY) Correct sports apparel for the fashionable man and woman 7 RIDING HABITS MOTOR TOGS OUTDOOR APPAREL SPORTING GOODS Expert service and Suggestion ----~ Write for our Sports Apparel catalog A distinctive sport suit of Irish homespun in brown or black checked plaid Also made in greys, greens or blues. $ Mail orders filled. 9 5 The Magic ny Sawer o Youth She &Y, iceleas Gift of Beauty "{ ¢ Y lhe c 9” ERAT oC iy ore of c Peauly To infuse a beautiful costume with the radiant loveliness of ) youth is to endow it with a S.4 subtle, never-failing charm. a he This is the purport of oO: : The best shops in America afe carry- ing these fascinating, transforming tai- lored suits—veritable aristocrats of the fashion world. Young women every- where have adopted them as the only costume at non-prohibitive cost of true character and distinction. They are. indeed, the treasure-trove of Beauty. Schulman & Hauptman “THE HOUSE OF YOUTH” 38-40-42 East 29th St., New York

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| GHOSTS (Continued from page 178) > vic. > a> Ss cement ie wnt = inini — MMM ms Wi my bed, between me and the bureau, a fig- ure which, in spite of the unwonted dress —-unwonted at least to me—I at once recog- nized as that of an old brother officer. He had on the usual khaki suit worn by offi- cers on service in Eastern climates. His face was pale, but his bright black eyes shone as keenly as when, a year and a half before, they had looked upon me as he stood with one foot on the hansom, bidding me adieu. “Fully impressed for the moment that we were stationed together, and thinking I was in my barrack room, I said, ‘Hello,

that Mr. Husbands is a most practical man, and the very last one would expect a ‘spirit’ to visit.” UT, unquestionably, it was not Mr. Husbands the ghost had come to visit; it was the room in which the death had occurred. If people would only appreciate this—if they would not conceitedly take it for granted that a ghostly visitation must necessarily be intended for the one who experiences it—they might feel far less un- comfortable in haunted houses. They might even make of the ghost a sort of family friend, instead of vowing that they “will

commonly seen by only one person, and supernatural had come! Something, I knew only at the time of, or soon after, their not, I dared not think what, was below, demise. Having given the informationthey and I knew it would ascend. All the ideas Sa Wo CUPANILS UH tN ee MUON UE ean CU CHAUUUAENAAAA NHN < I= AAHHTTHAAT — =o - UU aa oe ils EADY for immediate service or designed in our Custom Department GOWNS SUITS WRAPS FURS HATS ORTRAYING the newest Style Motifs in a highly in- dividualized manner — each Mode showing that note of difference so much desired by the well groomed woman Millimery 628-630 South Michigan Boulevard CHICAGO

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have come to impart, they vanish never to return. But there aré some ghosts—and not ghosts of the malevolent Futurist type, either—who seem to become so attached to a particular locality that they are reluctant to leave it. Wherefore it may happen that people who never had laid eyes on them in life are pestered by them many months, perhaps years, after death has claimed them. HESE poor ghosts, we may feel sure, are not actuated by malice, as the Fu- turist ghosts unfortunately seem to be. They do not pinch or choke the ghost-seers, or throw cold arms around them. They merely glide about silently, beckon myste- riously, or gaze appealingly. Nevertheless, no matter how discreet their behavior, it is difficult to feel really at ease in their pres- ence, particularly when they invade the ghost-seer’s room in the middle of the night. When they are recognized as ghosts, panic is almost certain to be the consequence. When their ghostly nature is not appre- ciated, feelings of lively resentment at the intrusion are only natural. One can sym- pathize, for example, with the attitude taken by a “most practical’ Englishman, Mr. John E. Husbands, when visited by a ghost under the following unusual circum- stances: “I was sleeping in a hotel in Madeira. It was a bright, moonlit night. The win- dow was open and the blinds up. I felt some one was in my room. On opening my eyes, I saw a young fellow about twen- ty-five, dressed in flannels, standing at the side of my bed and pointing with the first finger of his right hand to the place where I was lying. “T lay for some seconds to convince my- self of some one being really there. I then sat up and looked at him. I saw his fea- tures so plainly that I recognized them in a photograph which was shown to me some days after. I asked him what he wanted. He did not speak, but his eyes and hand seemed to tell me I was in his place. As he did not answer, I struck out at him with my fist as I sat up, but did not reach him, and as I was going to spring out of bed he slowly vanished through the door, which was shut, keeping eyes upon me all the time.” To this should be appended the explana- tory statement of Miss K. Falkner, a fel- low-guest at the hotel: “The figure that Mr. Husbands saw while in Madeira was that of a young fellow who died unexpectedly months previously, in the room Mr. Husbands was occupying. Curiously enough, Mr. Husbands had never heard of him or his death. He told me the story the morning after he had seen the figure, and I recognized the young fellow from the description. I loitered about until I heard Mr. Husbands tell the same story to my brother. We left Mr. Husbands, and said, simultaneously, ‘He has seen Mr. D . No more was said on the subject for days. Then I abruptly showed the photograph. Mr. Husbands said at once, ‘That is the young fellow who appeared to me the other night, but he was dressed differently —describing a dress he often wore, ‘cricket suit (or tennis) fastened at the neck with a sailor knot.’ I must say

() p——, am I late for parade?’ rr } n iy} looked at me steadily, and replied, ‘I’m never spend another night in the place.” M) shot.’ Landlords, needless to say, would welcome =" “ ‘Shot!’ I exclaimed. ‘Good heavens, such a change in attitude, for haunted =" how and where?’ houses are notoriously difficult to rent to =, “‘Through the lungs,’ replied P - advantage. =\ As he spoke his right hand moved slowly Still, it must be confessed that not a =}, up his breast, until the fingers rested over few ghosts, however well-mannered, are =, the right lung. scarcely of an aspect to create sentiments w= “What were you doing?’ I asked. of confidence, not to speak of good-will, = “<The General sent me forward,’ he an- on the part of those seeing them. Had he WS swered: and the right hand left the breast remained at the Madeira Hotel, Mr. Hus- WE to move slowly to the front, pointing over bands might in time have become on quite j= my head to the window, and at the same intimate terms with the flannel-clad ghost. w= moment the figure melted away. I rubbed But who could ever become intimate, or Wi= | my eyes, to make sure I was not dreaming, who could wish to become intimate, with =V\= | and sprang out of bed. It was then 4.10 a house-haunting ghost like one seen fre- she | a. m. by the clock on my mantelpiece. quently in a certain old residence in Bristol, =),= “Two days later news was received that England, and thus described by a gentle- == he had been killed at Lang’s Neck, between man of inquiring mind who had visited the == | eleven and twelve o’clock on the night in house for the express purpose of ascertain- =" | question.” ing if it really were haunted: “= Ghosts such as these, be it observed, are “The house was no longer empty—the 2 I had previously entertained of addressing the ghost and taking notes, were entirely annihilated by my fear—fear mingled with a horrible wonder as to what form the ap- parition would take. . . . The thing had now crossed the hall (I knew this somehow instinctively) and was beginning to mount the stairs. “T could not cry out, I could not stir, I could not close my eyes. I could only sit there, staring at the staircase in the most awful of dumb, apprehensive agonies. The thing grew nearer, nearer; up, up, up it came, until I could see it at last—see the shock-head of red hair, the white cheeks, the pale, staring eyes, all rendered hide- ously ghastly by the halo of luminous light that played around it... . “It came within a yard of me, the water dripping from its clinging clothes, yet leav- ing no marks on the flooring. It thrust its face forward. I thought it was going to touch me, and tried to shrink away from it, but could not. Yet it did nothing but stare at me, and its eyes were all the more hor- rible because they were blank; not diaboli- cal, as Miss Rudd had described them, but simply blank—blank with the glassiness of the dead. “Gliding past with a slightly swaying motion, it climbed up-stairs, the night air blowing through the bedraggled dress in a horribly natural manner. With bated breath I watched it until it was out of sight. For a second or so, it stopped irresolutely be- side an open window. There was a slight movement as of some one mounting the sill; a mad hilarious chuckle, a loud splash, and then—silence. After which I went home.” And surely it was high time to go home. The narrator adds: “T subsequently discovered that early in the seventies a servant-girl, who was in service at that house, had committed sui- cide in the manner I have just described. (The house stood on the bank of a deep pool.) But whether or not she had red hair I have never been able to ascertain.” D°UBILESsS she did have red hair, and doubtless she wore a bedraggled dress, to correspond with the ghost of the dress seen in the haunting. The ghost of the dress! Aye, and the ghost of the cricket suit—or was it tennis?—worn by the ap- parition in the Madeira hotel. Recall, too, the ghost of the khaki uniform that cov- ered the ghostly figure of the victim of the vision of Lang’s Neck. Further recol- lect that Lord Brougham’s ghost was duly dressed. What are we to make of this? What, indeed, are we to make of the fact that every ghost—that is, every respectable ghost—appears properly clothed? Are there ghosts of clothes as well as ghosts of people? Undeniably. Not only so, but there are ghosts of chairs and tables and umbrellas and watches ‘and hearses, and four post beds, and goodness knows what all. My attention has been called to one gentleman who saw a pair of top-boots, without visible wearer of any kind, stalk across the floor of his room and disappear into the op- posite wall. Another gentleman—a_ rev- erend gentleman—woke up one morning to (Continued on page 182) Bape a Denese err eS aT

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BLENDED WITH 8 Varieties Each of National Favor Kraft Rarebit Chile Camembert Swiss Roquetort Pimento Limburger Elkhorn Roquefort Salad ressing ¥% small can Elkhorn Roquce- fort-American Cheese. 4 to 6 tablespoons olive oil. A pinch of salt. A dash of paprika. A small amount of lemon juice. Emulsify to a creamy consist- ency and serve. The above can be varied in amounts to suit individual taste. Sufficient for four people in above proportions. “The First Hands to Touch It Are Yours” QUEFORT AMERICAN CHEESE STERILIZED AMERICAN CHEDDAR ae -_ Head a Now ano Delightful Havor MORE than eight centuries ago, according to legend, a shepherd tend- ing his sheep near the village of Roquefort, France, left his lunch— consisting of bread and native cheese—in one of the caves that abound in that region. Being suddenly called away, more than a month elapsed before his wandering flock brought him again to the same locality. To his great surprise he found the cheese not only well preserved but that it had a new and delightful flavor. From some such incident of chance the French peasants learned that by adding small particles of bread to the curd and placing the cheese in these caves to ripen they could produce a variety of cheese, mottled and marbled, and with a strange new piquancy all its own—and they called it Roquefort. Pure Roquefort is made of sheep's milk, and is much too pungent for the average American taste, but in the Roquefort variety of FLKHORN (HEESE we have perfected a skillful blend of the imported and pure white cream, producing a cheese of singular deliciousness, yet retaining the true Roquefort flavor. Elkhorn Roquefort Cheese in Tins is the choice of the epicure—its creamy texture and perfect flavor never vary. Cheese is such a valuable food, so rich in elements _in protein, or more convenient to serve—it keeps of nutrition, so wholesome, so pleasing to the taste _ until opened. that it should be served regularly and often. Buy a dozen—twelve tins will so thoroughly con- Elkhorn Cheese in Tins is a thoroughly ripened, vert you to the use of Elkhorn that you will never carefully graded, skillfully blended and completely again be satisfied with less than this incomparable sterilized product of our own rural factories. The cheese. parchment lined tin keeps all the original flavor It is more ecoromical—richer, takes less to satisfy, and goodness in—all impurities out. A suitable variety for every occasion. There is no food with which you can stock your Ideal for motoring, yatching, hunting, fishing, and pantry shelf that is more wholesome, none so rich __ picnics. Chicago — J.L. KRAFT & BROS. CO. — New York Send your dealer's name and 10c in stamps or coin for sample tin of Kraft plain or Pimento flavor, or 20 cents for both. Illustrated book of recipes free. Address 359-361 River Street, Chicago, /il.

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GOWNS - SUITS - WRAPS - FURS MISSES COSTUMES - FRENCH BLOUSES ERGDORF OODMAN 616 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK GHOSTS (Continued from page 180) find a phantom chandelier blossoming from the ceiling of his bedroom. He had gone to bed in perfect health—and perfectly sober. There was nothing the matter with his eyes. Yet the chandelier hung before him, where none had hung the night be- fore. Calmly—as calmly as may be—he watched it, and, watching, saw it slowly melt into nothingness. Afterward he identi- fied it as a replica of an actual chandelier familiar to him in the chapel where he conducted divine services. * But, you say, the ghostly chandelier must have been only an hallucination. Perhaps the reverend gentleman had been dreaming of the chandelier in the chapel, dreaming of it so vividly that, in the first stage of his awakening, it persisted in his conscious- ness as an externalized mental-image. Capital. Now we are getting on. If the ghostly chandelier was merely an externalized mental image, you will admit that the ghostly pair of top-boots seen walking without any wearer, may in all likelihood have been akin in origin to the ghost of the chandelier. Also the bedrag- gled dress of the suicidal servant-girl’s ghost, the suit of flannels garbing the hotel ghost, and the army officer's ghostly khaki suit. In which case, is it not probable that the ghosts of the servant-girl, the cricketer, and the army officer were themselves noth- ing more than images externalized from the minds of those who saw them? You balk at this. You persist in clinging to the traditional notion that in some way these ghosts—all real ghosts—must have an objective actuality. But look at the logical confusion in which you are thereby involved. Consider, in fact, the interesting circumstances that there are ghosts of the living as well as ghosts of the dead. Time without end witnesses, whose integrity cannot be impugned, have reported seeing apparitions of absent friends, when the friends at the moment were engaged in their usual occupations and in the best of health. Yet these “ghosts’’ were seen as veritably as though they had come from the sphere of the dead. More than this, ghosts of the living have literally been made to order by the persons whose ghosts are seen. For instance, having heard of the possi- bility of making a ghost of oneself appear to a friend at a distance, a clergyman one night undertook thus to influence a friend of his. Of course he said nothing whatever of his intention, but, on going to bed, “willed” with all his might that the friend should see a phantasm of him. Here is the friend’s account of what actually resulted: “JT woke up with a start and an idea that some one had come into the room. I heard a curious sound, but fancied it might be the birds in the 1vy outside. Next I ex- perienced a strange, restless longing to leave the room and go downstairs. This feeling became so overpowering that at last I rose and lit a candle and went down, thinking if I could get some soda water it might have a quieting effect. On return- ing to my room I saw Mr. Godfrey (the experimenter) standing under the large window on the staircase. “He was dressed in his usual style, and with an expression on his face that I have noticed when he has been looking very earnestly at anything. He stood there, and I held up the candle and gazed at him for three or four seconds in utter amazement, and then, as I passed up the staircase, he disappeared. The impression left on my mind was so vivid that I fully intended waking a friend who occupied the same room as myself, but remembering that I should only be laughed at as romantic and imaginative, refrained from doing so. I was not frightened at the appearance of Mr. Godfrey, but felt much excited, and could not sleep afterwards.” Surely no one with any regard for the requirements of logical thinking would ven- ture to argue that the clerical experi- menter, Mr. Godfrey, could be objectively, at one and the same time, mediating in his own bedroom and standing on the stair- case in another person’s house several miles away. What had happened, clearly, was that by some subtle power of thought transference—telepathy, it is nowadays catled—he had succeeded in impressing on another person’s mind an idea so vivid that it became externalized as an hallucination of the sense of sight. Clearly, too, the fact that this can be done throws a flood of light on some of the most startling of all ghosts—ghosts of the type represented by the phantasmal army officer and the ghost seen by Lord Brougham. It does not require any stretch of the imagination to conceive that, at the moment of death, Lord Brougham’s friend, G , recalled the boyhood compact, and thought of Lord Brougham with such in- tensity as to send him a telepathic mes- sage. So with the army officer, whose friend in this instance received the tele- pathic message in the form both of a visual and of an auditory hallucination. Thus we should have satisfactorily explained both the fact of the apparition itself and the fact that the apparition wore clothes. But what of the ghost seen in the Ma- deira hotel? There could have been no telepathy here, unless it were telepathy from the dead, and against this stands the fact that the man who saw the ghost, Mr, Husbands, had not even been acquainted with the one whose ghost he beheld. Here, at all events, it would seem that we must have to do with a truly objective ghost, cricket flannels and all. But bethink your- self, I urge, of the ghost of the chandelier. This, you have properly insisted, could only have been a continuation of a dream about the actual chandelier in. the chapel. In the same way, it is reasonable to believe, Mr. Husbands may have been dreaming about the young man whose ghost appeared to him. He had not known him in life, it is true, and is represented as never having heard of him. But, every day, we hear and see much of which we are not con- sciously aware. From a forgotten glimpse of the photograph of the dead man, from some words concerning him, overheard but forgotten, Mr. Husbands could have had in the subconscious depths of his mind ample material for ghost-producing dream. Again, take the ghost of the red-haired servant girl. Assuming that nobody was playing a trick on the highly nervous gentleman who saw this ghost, we need only call to mind that, as his own state- ment indicates, a Miss Rudd had already given him a detailed—and lurid—descrip- tion of the supposed ghost. “Suggestion” —and his being for the moment in a state of what psychologists term “mental dis- sociation’’—would thus account adequately for the ghostly form, the ghostly face, the ghostly hair, the ghostly bedraggled dress and the ghostly water “leaving no marks on the flooring.” which so terrified this investigator of haunted houses. Likewise with Futurist ghosts. Gruesome, terrible though they seem, we are justified in asserting dogmatically that they, in com- mon with all other ghosts not attributable to fraud and deceit, may be traced to ideas already present in the minds of seers who, for any reason, are plunged temporarily into a state of mental dissociation. An at- tack of indigestion may be quite enough to create a first-class Futurist ghost—if the seer chooses to interest as a ghostly ex- perience the ideas externalized by the dis- turbing influence of the indigestion. To il- lustrate by quoting the experience of a Chicago physician: “When I was five years of age, and dur- ing the sixth year, I suffered from night- mare. I sat up in bed and fancied I saw a monkey come down the chimney and fas- ten itself to my shoulder and bite me, and terrify me so much that I would scream out. My older sister would then come, wake me up thoroughly, and satisfy me that it was but a vision. “Other nights I wou pression, ringing ears ceiving som | feel a sense of op- sensation of per- t small which, grad- ually at first, then rapidly, assumed enormous prop vast whirling speed, and whici. | imagined, whirled me off with it—a buzz n my eais, probably.” A buzzing in the ears, forsooth! What an unromantic interpretation of an experi- ence so ideally Futuristic in its details. Yet, after all, it is an interpretation which, we must confess, appeals strongly to com- mon sense. As I remarked at the beginning, fashions change in ghosts as they do in clothes. Now it is possible to add that, however ec- centric the latest fashion in ghosts, we as- suredly need be no more troubled in mind by it than by the latest eccentricity in the fashion of clothes. friends. in the New York shops. “Vou are a wonder,” writes an enthusiastic patron of Harper's Bazar Shopping Service to Jane Jarvis, and adds, “I shall tell all my friends about you, too.’ And this is only one of the many times that Jane Jarvis is advertised by her grateful The letters, which come in from all parts of the country, indicate the deep personal interest that the Director of the Shopping Service takes in her clients. As will be seen by turning to pages 106 and 107, Jane Jarvis buys anything offered

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HHAMEAAII | Sy Ws 5 gilt tis rs 1 Emmi mnt Are x VAUenneuteuannssevapasciieensnnaninienen eS t= No. 2007 retailing GENUINE LEATHER COATS IN BRIGHT SUMMER COLORS sStamotealher C /YE AL leather coats, cK silk lined, that hang and drape as grace- fully as cloth—in brilli- ant summer sport colors. Styled in white, blues, reds, greens, tans and other colors. Sold by the best shops everywhere. TOL MMOMMMMOMMInmIMinirniniiiin i iit If your dealer does not carry genuine STURMO- LEATHER coats remit to us and we will see that you are supplied. Write for STYLE book. LEO. F. STURM 8 West 30th St. New York Makers of Genuine Leather Coats for men and women SOLD BY Franklin Simon & Co. ITY ky AKRON, OHIO The Hub, Bais TIMORE, MD. F. rus & Co, COLU MBU iS, OHIO B. Siegel Co., DETROIT, MICH. Grand Leader, EVERETT, WASH. A. Harris Co., DALLAS, TEXAS Gans Co., FORT WORTH, TEXAS New York Dry Goods Co. HELENA, MONT. L. Bamberger & 3 NEWARK, N. J. Lipman, Wolfe & C PORTLAND, ORE GON Weinstock Lubin Co. SACRAMENTO, CAL. Bon Marche, SEATTLE, WASH. Famous & Barr Co., ia” LOUIS, MO. The Outlook, TOPE KAN ISAS Harris Emery, DES. WoINes, IOWA McEliwee Co., ATLANT cI Shepard Banning Co., ST JO. MICH. Lundt & Co., MOLINE, ILL, Seligman Bros. & Co. : SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO Stackpole, Moore, wa Co. HARTFORD, CO L. S. Barnes, PONG! AN CITY, OKLA. E. Palmer Co., PORT TLAND, ME. Hialier Dry Goods Co. VICTORIA, TEX. CTT And other good stores TI TT = it LOOK FOR THIS LABEL su qe am = Wy Ty os OM my - Rc : cain mens LLU. tRNA UAT TORI ANNAN =. UUM MT MUNA aililt ayenen evennnennnnvennnncene 1 PISTCHAL CHARLES & HELLER 9 EAST 54™ ST NF ANNOUNCE THE FORMAL PRESENTATION OF EXCLUSIVE IMPORTS AND ORIGINAL CREATIONS lf GOWNS SUITS WRAPS MR. HELLER MR. CHARLES formerly of ““Thurn” Formerly of Henri Bendel “Protected by lu S Letters and Design Patents NEW YORK | t10n See the exciu e. patented Ventilo el f(o) a Mn) OME Uae! down the back Insures ventila- ° ef 9 Front Lace — ‘give me the most comfort | best have. had and the from a letter of ever looking figure’”’ prevents ure on the forsets No BUTTONS SNAPS OR HOOKS. appreciation er. Guy THE Comrort oF A NEGLIGEE am 4 )) ALY JCAAC HOUSE’ GOWN Style No. 174 all styles made in all materials It SLIPS OVER THE HEAD AND TIES Tee “WITH THE APPEARANCE OF A GOWN ANGE Confined to ONE Store ina Gty ae A nm £; Vclusive Froduction f De WeLLes ComPANY 13 West 46” STREET New York iat’ « under Canadian Fatant Ladgle razk Mont real,Canada 183

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T* the heart of Poris—occupying the entire mezzanine floor, with broac dows opening upon the famous Rue de la Paix —-these are the new and greatly enlarged offices curtained win- of Harper's Bazar. One building in Paris that every traveler should plan to visit It is in the very center of fashionable Paris. Opposite are the great houses of Worth, Doucet and Paquin. Around the corner are the Ritz and the smartest hotels of Paris. A step brings one to the Opera. Passing by are Paris in its brightest mood. And in the broad windowed mezzanine of the building are the new, charmingly fitted offices of Harper’s Bazar which you may make your own at any time. Mrs. Van Campen Stewart, the director of Harper’s Bazar, will welcome your visit. And she and her assistants who speak French fluently, of course, and know intimately the great French shops you will want to visit, will delight to serve you in every possible way. y The Bazar staff will know just where to find the hat, or frock, or whatever it is you are plan- ning to buy in Paris. The great establishments there are as familiar to them, as the shops of your own city are to you. You will find our entire Paris staff able and very willing to perform many valuable services for you. They will tell you where to find exactly those things you are wishing for, how to get there, and how much you should pay. They will be glad to introduce you per- sonally in the famous shops where, as you know, a personal introduction helps so much. They will guide you to the little unusual shops which display the little things Americans crave—but which are so hard to find. In matters concerning the details of traveling, your entire burden wi | be as umed by our staff. They will tell you, if you haven’t already planned your itinerary, the most interesting places to visit. They will secure railroad schedules for you, arrange your trip for comfortable train connections and hotel accommodations at your stopping places—in fact assume the petty neces- sities of the tourist that are so annoying when one’s time is limited and there are so many thoroughly enjoyable things to do. And here is a service our Paris office will be glad to render those at home. If there is any information about Paris fashions that our readers or advertisers would like to have, simply write to Mrs. Stewart, and she will personally secure this information for you. If you are abroad be sure to visit the new and greatly enlarged offices of Harper’s Bazar. Remember the number—2 Rue de la Paix

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PUTT UU LOU UOUUTUTT UL ULULTEELLLL LLL Ee LeeLLUOLaar CULE CGELUCeDLec Per CLUTCH TIT

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DON’T DISCARD YOUR - _ WEARING APPAREL — We pay liberal prices for = slightly used gowns, wraps, = furs and other attire. = 4 AME FASHION = 4 changes her mind so rapidly nowadays that one’s —Freemans | DaX G) Jaw = 0) 4/8 BY ay 2 W HEN Milady ventures forth a-visiting or shopping or on business bent, Freeman’s Face Powder goes with her. Ready at hand to sooth and protect the tender skin from torturing winds and en- hance the charm of a lovely complexion. Why Have Freckles ? —when tiiey are so easily removed? Try the fol-

4 4 4 > : wardrobe often contains arti- i cles of dress which have gone = out of style within a few months after their purchase. = fore s rj ‘ so Ee | Clings closely to the skin—won’t rub Before suffering a total loss : | off. Contains nothing injurious to the on material of this sort, con- | most delicate complexion. All tints fer with us 50 cts. plus 2cts. war tax. Miniature e B. box by mail 4 cts. plus 1 ct. war tax. - For twenty-seven years we ; have enjoyed the privilege and confidence of business relationship with hundreds of the best families of America. Appointments at your office or your residence may be made by mail or telephone. We also allow full value for diamonds, jewelry, silver- ware, furniture, draperies, rugs, etc. - Mme. NAFTAL E 69 West 45th St., New York City = = Between 5th and 6th Avenues é = Telephone Bryant 670 lowing treatment: Apply a small portion of Still- man’s Freckle Cream when re- tiring. Do not rub in, but ap- An unrivaled favorite for forty years = with supremacy ever maintained by un- = changing excellence.

ply lightly. Wash off in the morning with a good soap Continue using the cream until the freckles entirely disappear. Start-tonight—after two or three applications you will see results. After years of research special- ists have created this delight- ful, harmless cream _ which leaves the skin without a blem- ish. If your druggist hasn’t it, write us direct. 50c per jar. Stillman’s Face Powder .50c Stillman’s Rouge Stillman’s Tooth Paste.25c At Drug Stores everywhere. Money refunded if not satis- factory. Write for booklet— “Wouldst Thou Be Fair?” for helpful beauty hints. STILLMAN CREAM. COMPANY Dept. 9 Aurora. Illinois = Fs — qe ANN Ty es The Freeman Perfume Co. Dept. 119 Cincinnati Ohio

YouAreAs Old As You Look MME. POLLY at the age of 56 still possesses that youthful charm and beau- ty, seldom found in women twenty years her junior. MME. POLLY is now offering by mail two of her famous preparations which she has used at her salon for the last thirty years in the treatment of New York’s most fastidious women, and women who appreciate the importance of a youthful

, You Don’t Know the Joys Before You until you have tried Geneseo marmalade with your breakfast coffee and rolls; Geneseo jellies with your Sunday dinner, and, in the tea-time dusk, Geneseo jams and hot buttered toast. Place your order now and give your jaded appetite a treat, IN GLASS JARS OR ENAMEL-LINED TINS Peach, Pear, Plum, Pear and Quince Jams, Orange armalade and Grape Fruit Marmalade. In In Miladi's Boudoir for over 50 years

appearance 1 MME. POLLY’S FACE CREAM of Olive and cartons containing }4 dozen 26 oz. tins. Almond Oil: Soap and water unnecessary as $2.50 per carton. Strawberry, Raspberry, Blackberry and Apricot Jams. In cartons con taining 44 dozen 14 oz. tins. $2.50 per carton. / PURE CLOVER HONEY—In glass. — } 1 doz. 5 oz., $3.85; 1 doz. 14 oz.; PY yi | $5.00. od Also quart and a half gallon sizes. MISS ELLEN H. NORTH {<i 5a drug and dept Geneseo, N. Y. ws Pg stores, or by mail on receipt of price. Laird's Bloomof Youth Co. 62 Cliff St., New York Dept. H.B.

this removes all dirt"and grime embedded in the pores. Also removes blackheads and gives the skin that soft and — appearance. Sold in $1.50 and $2.50 MME. POLLY, 216 West “aond St., New York LIQUID face powder Bestowing on the. skin that yearned for tint and softness “Youth's treas- ured heritage.”

WANT A DOGP Ask the dog man at Harper’s Bazar, 119 West 40th Street, to find the pet you want.

Made in the Cup at the Table The Easier Kind of Coffee Economical—No Waste! ¥ Trial Size 10c. Recife Booklet Free. F G. Washington Sales Co. Inc. 334 Fifth Avenue, New York Once eee nsaeeeeseneaserteceses: 1mlole Locos OE 17 Sea socalled —— *“*KREMOLA”’ fsa acientifeally medicated snow white cream that dors wonders d complexion. Re- qpoves Zan. Moth-Patehes, Pimples, Fez °) ema, etc. F ° oman’s Protection cant t shaving. MAIL $1 1.25. Free booklet. -ipelieaed DR. C.H. BERRY CO., 2975 Michigan Ave. , Chicago Brighten up the Kiddies straw hats with PUTNAM STRAW HAT DYE Besutiful | Braden ef Red, Green, Navy lue, Purple, ’Bro » Gh a Dull Black. If your jane ont supply you, write us. We will send any color postpaid—as5 cents. Monroe Drug Company, Dept. K, Quincy, Il

The Dainty Deodorant Neutralizes all bodily odors Its use is a delight to all who take pride in maintaining absolute Personal sweetness. e Cuticura Soap 3 ew versweet Ideal for the the dainty, white, odorless cream—under the ( . arms, anywhere, gives the persom a charm ¢ omplexion sweetness and freshness most delightful. Wil not injure skin or clothing. All oo Soap, 25, Ointment 25 and 50, Talcum 25, Sample each free of ‘*Cuticura, Dept. B, Boston

25c and 50c a Jar at Drug and Dept. Stores LEversweet Company, 62 Cliff St., New York

185

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liant: The Regal! ‘Thisis the most slatotplatinam, pail t b iH i \ =P 5a Ae AP +e +: Se OSes Se oy ts -coe + . SS SS Ss So Se a a Nise. one ®, = = 4) rar ee FIFTH AVE. & 35th St. New York @PRESENTING Frocks of exclusive mode, ¥ i chosen to grace the wardrobe and the person of the woman who is individual in 4 | ARMAND #5; ‘ her dress. My Aa | COMPLEXION POWDER. | ~ r+ a+ Os oe ee ee ee a bt The LITTLE RINK & WHITE-BOXES ) ~ 0) e* A delightful frock of tucked taffeta ; ‘ ; ; ANY face powders are with band of organdie set in tunic of M es smooth and soft and ‘ | skirt and organdie collar and cuffs. i fragrant but you want some- || =@ Pa | May be had in all colors. ¥ thing more than that. You : : ¥ want one that exactly suits [| ~ Ie| your skin. ‘ - is | Write for summer catalog. ¥! Just use Armand once! At ¢ all the better shops—Bou- [|] ™ Aes uet, a medium powder is = C2 ms 0c and a ao ee ede a Powder, original wi - . a ‘Armand mand, is $1. And the won- i xen 90Ne te ced poor one aa Cold Cream dealer's name for three Ouge is q ; samples. . ARMAND—Des Moines ARMAND, Des Moines 7) in Canada Armand, St. Thomas. Ont, In Canada Yes Be a ¢ : } Armand. St. Thomas, Ont. 186

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Wholesome G Outdoor Charm every smartly simple GOLFLEX suit. “emanates from It carries with it something of the freshness and vital- ity of the open, of wind- swept spaces and sunfilled woods. Yet it is equally at home on the avenue, equally correct for all tailored uses. Made of wear, weather, and wrinkle-proof worsted jersey, in vivid sport shades or soft neutral and heather mixtures. : If you do not find GOLFLEX suits and dresses at your favor- ite store, write direct to WILKIN & ADLER 12 East 26th Street New York : Creators of Smart Frocks 31 E. 31st STREET, NEW YORK 7 RUE BERGERE, PARIS COR- FROCK MANNIE SOLOMON CoO., INc. Forsythe Waists Spring Tailormades \ New tailored feos. f ped striped dimity, tucked front wit pique collar and cuffs.. 7.50 New tailored model—white striped dimity; pique collar SOE DU cikseksasne ° Phoenia taffeta...ccccccceses $12.50 Radium silk (including tax).. 15.83 Silk broadcloth (including tax) 16.65 Dorisoie silk (including tax).. 16.65 Smart sport blouse in white striped dimity—tucked front— pique collar and cuffs.. 2 Mail orders promptly filled Send for Catalog No. 20 JOHN FORSYTHE & SONS The Walst House 3 West 42nd Street New York No connection with any other house doing business under the name of Forsythe Telephone: Vanderbilt 2218

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“Tt was falling out, getting brit- tle arid stringy. My scalp was filled with dandruff and itched almost constantly. “A few applications of Kolor- Bak produced a wonderful im- provement. The itching stopped instantly. There was no more dandruff. And—marvel of mar vels—it is now restored to its original color—not a gray hair shows anywhere!” Kolor-Bak is not a dye or stain. It is colorless, stainless, harmless and restores original color to gray hair simply by putting hair and scalp in a healthy condition. Send for our special trial offer; also Free Book on Hair which ex plains how Kolor-Bak restores gray hair to its original color. HYGIENIC LABORATORIES 68 W. Washington Street, Dept. 471, Chicago ‘’ashion says the use o is necessary so long as sleeve- less gowns and sheer fabrics for sleeves are worn. It assists freedom of movement, unhampered grace, modest elegance and correct style. That is why “they all use Delatone’’ Delatone is an old and well - known _ scientific preparation for quick safeand certain removal of hairy growths, no matter how thick or stubborn. After appli- cation the skin is clear, firm and hairless with no painor discoloration Beauty specialists rec- ommend Delatone for removal of objectionable hair from face, neck or arms. Druggists sell Delatone or an original 1 oz. jar will be mailed to any ad- dress on receipt of $1 by THE SHEFFIELD PHARMACAL CO. Dept. MH 339 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Il. Gray Hair Disappears In From 4 to 8 Days Science has discovered the way for restoring hair to its natural color. It is offered to women in Mary T. Goldman's Scientific yo Restorer. In from 4 to 8 days it will end every gray Nero T, Gatien Scientific Hair Color Restorer ‘al ri FREE Send tydeg for a trial bottle and our special | MARY T. GOLDMAN 1633 Goldman Bidg., St. Paul, Minn. Accept no Imitations—Sold by Druggists Everywhere inghams » © ‘ : (3) e) c Distinctive Colors &) and Designs (3) The Worlds Standard of Comparison 6» A ; e) | i Look for this ticket in the selvagge » 8, DAVID & JOHN ANDERSON... 1S, 4 NONE GENUINE WITHOUT THIS =» ‘Ss ( ScoTcH GINGHAMS. Ax) ———————— gy €) Me fine Stores Lverywhere &) You can quickly dissolve superfluous flesh easily and with safety wherever desired by wearing Dr. Walter’s famous medicated reducing Rubber Garments For Men and Women Cover Entire Body or Any Part Endorsed by leading physicians and worn by society everywhere. BUST REDUCER BRASSIERE Price $6.00 enema Price $7.00 se oy te Send for Free Illustrated Booklet. © & CHIN REDUCER DR. JEANNE E. WALTER, 353 Fifth Ave., N.Y. Billings Bldg., 4th Floor (Entrance on 34th St.) Philadelphia Representative: MISS MARY KAMMERER, 1029 Walnut St. Pacific Coast Representative: ADELE MILLAR CO., 345 Stockton St., San Francisco, Cal. TRADE MARE BEG. PAT. OFp, None Genuine Without This Trade Mark. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR REMOVER The only treatment that will remove permanently all Superfluous Hair from the face or any part of the body with- out leaving a mark on the most delicate skin. Removes entire hair roots and destroys the hair duct. No electric needle, burning caustics or powders used. One application of Mi-Rita will quickly and completely remove all undesirable hair without pain, leaving the skin soft and smooth. Every woman who is troubled with superfluous hair should know that Mi- Rita will permanently destroy the most stubborn growth of hair, and this treat- ment can be used successfully at home. Send for Free Beauty Book listing our exclusive preparations for beautifying the skin and _ hair. Dr. Margaret Ruppert Sole Owner of the Mi-Rita Treatment Dept. D, 1112 Chestnut Street Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A Established 22 years. Reducing Weight Your body is composed of about 85 per cent water and your size can be reduced through perspiration with- out any injurious effects. ubber Garments cause Perspiration of the parts where applied and do not affect other parts of the body. Our garments are made of red rubber soft as velvet, sufficiently heavy to give long wear. Hip Belt $7.50 Brassiere for reducing the bust. Back of fine coutil. Front of fine red rubber. Any size $4.50. Give bust measure. Hip Belt of fine red rub- ber, 15 in. long, any size, $7.50. Give waist and hip measure. — Chin Band $1.00 Abdominal Belts 10 in. wide in front, any size, $4.50. Chin band for reduc- ing double chin, 50c and $1.00. Reducing Shirts, $12.50. Reducing Pants, Eton Jacket, $8.50. J.C. BAILEY COMPANY 11-13 Avon St., Boston Established 1888 Illustrated circulars free Brassiere d $4.50 DELECTA Honey Cream A delightful prepara- “tion for the toilette. @jJHoney and Orienta! f Oils skillfully blended reshen and #7 youthify the skin and cause lines to vanish. Price $1.56—$3.12—$5.72 per jar There are many more cremes and lotions to suit all conditions of the skin, among the EVE BECKTEL DELECTA preparations. Booklet “‘H’”’ on request 188 507 Fifth Avenue Phone Vanderblit 4943

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—_ _ NEW SPRING sHaDEs 4 Welin, LUD OLE ___ PHILADELPH at PI IF CLEOPATRA HAD OWNED A FOUNTAIN-PEN! The desert, dream - hushed and still—miles of silver sand stretching into the night—a faint, cool wind stirring sleep- ily—and slowly,—silently—a heavily laden camel silhouetted against the rising Egyptian moon. They had cost months of hardship and suffering, months of endless travelling, months of weary searching, these silks of shimmering loveliness, these jewels like sophisticated dew- drops, these precious balms and fragrant spices,— and all to make radiant Cleopatra still more beautiful. But you lovely women of today, you have all of Cleo- patra’s beauty at your slender finger-tips. The shops of the World are yours to choose from, yet all you need is a fountain pen. Jane Jarvis of Harper’s Bazar’s Shopping Ser- vice is the magician who brings them to your feet, for she knows just where to find anything,—and find it quickly. Address her at 119 West 40th St., New York City. sorverseneereneennnnte for semi-dress wear. The 0-G suede and white kid at $21.50; kid or black satin at $17.50. Does Your Chauffeur Look as Smart as Your Car? He will if his outfit comes from _ here. We have special- ized in Motor ap- parel: we have a department devoted to it— covers both owners’ and chauf- feurs’ needs. An outfit from Brill Brothers will give your chauffeur that Rolls-Royce look. Suit Overcoat Smart Spring and Cap Styles now here. to Match Specially priced Broadway at 49th St., New York The O-G Sandalette This smart, distinctive O-G French Vamp slipper is the ay | | EY sensation of the season—it represents Fashion's final decree Sandalette may be had in black, brown or gray Write for the free O-G Style Booklet— “Correct Footwear for Men and Women’ Out-of-Town Orders receive prompt and careful attention Wyet in Chicago be sure to visit O-G Costume Bootery pore: re Out-of-Town Orders: O-G SHOPPING SERVICE REPUBLIC BUILDING, CHICAGO eererncrccsesscceces. “Windows of the Soul” ' ES—the most noticeablefeat- ure of the face—to possess fj 4 charm, beauty and expression, must be framed with long, lux- ff uriant Eyelashes and well Eyebrows. and in patent leather, black 4 applied nighly will aid Nature in | a marvelous manner in nourish- E promoting thy the Ty of j | every where, use and "CONNOR & 19 Pare al ‘beauty GOLDBER i fo a | Pel “fasd-s Rearit Pe hiteSame : Roend Fashionable Footwear since 1903 | [EME] 28 below, which is on every bo: . O-G STORES IN CHICA Maya. LABORATORIES 189

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ate i! A Paw Fees Hi are artistic conceptions expressed twisted thread. —the 1 eee of sunshine Soon Spring will be here i in all its loveliness, and just as though it were nature’s own colorings you can express this cheer and brightness in your home with draperies of Kapock. Beautifully soft and silky, the “Life-Long- Colors” permit of frequent careful washing —the double width for splitting. The basting thread in the selvage marks the genuine—insist on seeingit. drapery dealer to wrile us the new og ch Book ” © amasie ts o3 colors practical furnishings for your home. Charm, the distinctive attribute of hand-made lace, is no less alluring in “B. B.” Reproductions. Our first Valenciennes pattern, produced in 1845, so won the favor of that generation that it continued in constant demand for thirty years. You will find this quality-mark on every Since that time our capacity has been taxed to twelve yards of genuine the utmost, because “BR. B.” Reproductions of “B. B.”" Laces—sold . - ’ acs A byall high-class retail © Tal hand-made laces have reached the highest stores, The lace will State of perfection—The world over, they are - also be foundon high- recognized as paramount for their excellent A. THEO. ABBOTT & CO. 2 ey grade lingerieinready- Washing qualities and beauty of design. Department S Philadelphia } } to - wear departments ) and specialty shops. Birkin & Company 73 Fifth Avenue, NewYork, N.Y. rcs Wrinkles | Thousands have success- fully used this formula to remove traces of age, illness or worry: 1 oz. of pure ae SPRING IS HERE! 1& Powdered oa tene ie atier wk tane ||| =| | SAXOLITE This Baby Crib for your auto is being used bv: thousands of families An ingenious Gain in % pt. witch hazel; face wash. The effect SPRING arrangement enables the baby to ° . se as a sleep over the roughest roads and mother But to a little child what k can drive. No jars or shocks. It can be lines completely and quickly van- ish. ‘ace becomes firm, smooth, fresh, and you look years younger. Occupies no. useful space in car. 7 ' Send for illustrated booklet and dealer's name. quale Senate inenauea) “at t Ided ickl i wh : : ° ot in use. Cover protects, child from weather. | is Spring without a DOG ? G OTOR CRIB CO. : any drug or department store. Dept. H aH ne State Sees Ecomees : = — The dog may be a furry Pekinese—an ugly bull—or a faithful collie—but he’s the true love of a little child’s life. The friend who never fails—who always understands—who never takes offence. Of all the memories of childhood none is so cherished as the memory of one’s dog. Let your child know the joy of such companionship. Write to the Dog Man, telling him the kind of a dog your child would like Hanan Infant's Hand Made Slip or Dress No. 235, fine quality nain- sook; round hand embroi- dered yoke finished with veining. Neck and sleeves edged with lace and veining. Sizes infants to 2 years. Ex- ceptionally good value $2.00. uty OU can have a youthful appearance, clear com- plexion, magnetic eyes, pretty eye-brows and lashes, grace- ful neck and chin, luxuriant hair, attractive hands, com- fortable feet. You can remov y ” , H . a e , wrinktes, fines, pimples, jomave to have—and he will help you secure it. Address him De Lis Infants’ Wear hea trengt. cial Snaapolen all —_" following our at, Harper's Bazar, 119 West 40th Street, New York. Hand made in old French quarter New Orleans, simple directions. Thousands have done by expert French needlewomen specializing in the so. No drugs, no waste of time, no big expense at and quick results. Send for latest free Booklet comes from France. Take ad , containing many beauty hints and all about the vantage of this special offer of j wonderful work accomplished b E ha Ae .* ip ae $2.00. nace MILDRED CULTURE COURSE | Mon if not pleased Dept. 4, 624 South Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. Write, oor cataleg of beautiful ia'B "Branch of Susanna Cocroft’s Work.) | models. , | De Lis, Dept. H4, New Orleans sarees Youmans | Welsh Rarebit BERET | Smooth as velvet-always, TAM } and 80 tasty! = mee. Handy tins ~All mos Stores. | a arrived, in ne é Daily de oom Makes" F ; . aia , fascinating colors. wl a y das ca - Keep the Hair in Place Sent prepaid, om re- ) on eae ; -incionaed dere ar Write for booklet 10 L y " Mi! ; YOUMANS, INC., 581 Fifth Ave., N. Y.

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ESTABLISHED 1868 Scientifically prepared. Used by discriminating persons everywhere ROSALINE Gives the face and nails a delicate rose tint. Softens and velvetizes the skin and is superior to dry rouges for tinting. ROSALINE is not iffected by perspiration or displaced by bathing. Jars, 35 cents. DIAMOND NAIL ENAMEL In powder or cake form. Free from grit, producing an immediate and lasting polish. Its delicate rose tint will not discolor the skin or cuticular fold of the nails. Diamond shape box, 35 cents. ONGOLINE Bleaches and cleans the nails, re- moves ink, hosiery and glove stains from the skin, guaranteed harmless. Bottles, 65 cents. * & LUSTROLA A new finger nail paste. Gives a brilliant and unequalled polish. Lustre is not affected by water. 5 Easy and economical to use. Jars, 65 cents, CREAM VAN OLA For softening and whitening the Feeds and nourishes the tis- Preserves a beautiful complex- Jars, AS € skin. sues. ion and restores a faded one. 35 cents. GLORA LILY LOTION An emulsion which softens and whitens the hands and complexion; removes tan and_ redness; cures rough, dry skin and will not irritate the most sensitive skin; i refreshing sensation with fragrant perfume. 4 oz. bottles, 65 cents. Sold by Dealers everywhere or sent direct on receipt of price and 10c Send stamp for OS a SS 0 ES CO ss os OS ESS ES S93 imparts a extra for postage. illustrated catalogue of prices. DR. J. PARKER PRAY C0. Sole Manufacturers and Proprietors 10 and 12 East 23rd St., New York Ss GS Eo 0S 6 es Ee

S) / ? The Brightness of Springtime is personified in the sparkling designs and harmonious colors of the new Fiskhat creations for sprin}— now at your favorite milliner’s. The Fiskhat label insures you of quality and real value. Look forit. D. B. FISK & COMPANY Creators of Correct Millinery CHICAGO

OU can—I know it. For what 92,000 other women have done you can do. I teach you how to sit, stand and walk correctly—give you grace and abundant vitality— courage to undertake, courage to do things. I build you up or reduce you to normal—all in your own home. In a few weeks you can surprise your family and friends. Be Well Why Not ? I will send you letters of en- dorsement from eminent phy- sicians and tell you how I would treat you. Physicians endorse my work—their wives and daughters are my pupils. Don’t let writing a letter stand between you and good health, animation, correct weight and a perfect figure. Write me now—today—while this subject is upper- most. Tell me, in confidence, whether you suffer from any of the ailments listed here, and I will tell you how I can help you. If you have any of the following derangements, run a line through it and send it to me: Excess Flesh in any part of the body—Thin Bust, Chest, Neck or Arms—Round Shoulders—Incorrect Standing—Incorrect Walking—Poor Complexion— Poor Circulation—Lame Back—Sleeplessness—Lack of Reserve—Nervousness — Constipation — Dizziness —Rheumatism—Torpid Liver— Malassimilation — Headache — Irritability — Indigestion — Colds — Weakness. What the Newspapers and Magazines say: . New York Tribune—‘‘There is a sanity in Miss Cocroft’s books which strongly appeals to reason. She does not promise the impossible nor the in- credible . . . But she points out the advantages which are to be derived from that mental poise which is within the reach of all.” Boston Times—‘‘She herself is an inspiring ex- ample of a woman who has attained complete in- dependence and success, as the result of her own energy, talent, education, refinement and courage.”’ Nautilus—*‘*Probably no writer in America is better fitted to talk to women about the development of themselves than Miss Coeroft, and she probably reaches more women than any one else with her books and instruction in rational physical culture.’’ American Medicine—‘‘The world is a much better place to live in because of the suecess Susanna Cocroft has had in showing her sisters how to live and take care of their bodies.’’ SUSANNA COCROFT 624 S. Michigan Ave. Dept. 24, Chicago Miss Oocroft is @ nationally recognized authority on conditioning women as our camps have conditioned our men, 34-B

The WALKING DOLL ALKS with natural graceful stride, without clockwork or mechanism— making long steps or short ones, as you wish, when leading her by the hand. She can dance, bow, kneel, and do other pleas- ing acts. The doll is 28” tall, strongly made and can be shipped without danger of damage. She is dressed complete, including underwear, stockings and shoes. The wig is real human hair. Doll, dressed complete, as pictured $12.50 With moving eyes and open mouth show- ing teeth and tongue............. $15.00 In beautiful silk dress, extra fine under- wear and finish.. $20.50 Toys, games and playthings of every kind. Write for Catalog MANHATTAN DOLL CO., Inc. 741 Fifth Avenue New York City ee ee ee)

TUBUTM Hand-made in EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS Wilkinson Art Quilts are found in the finest homes in America, where supremely good taste and a true appreciation of dainty loveliness is the guiding note in They are admirable trousseau-gifts. their selection. Write for beautiful Booklet H, showing in true colors the delicate designs and splendid materials. Prices range from $10 to $150. Sample of materials sent upon request. She Wilkinson Sisters Dept. B Ligonier; Indiana

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FAMOUS FOR STYLE, SERVICE AND SMARTNESS Model 1600 Nurse’s Uni- form, white pre-shrunk Service Cloth $6.00 In white linene $4.50

B, Altman & Co. Abraham & Straus Arnold Constable Best & Co. Saks & Co. Franklin Simon Stern Brothers Sohn Wanamaker Model 375—Maid's Uniform—Indi- viduality itself. Black or grey cotton Pongee $6.00. Mohair $8.50 to $13.50 If your dealer is out of these Uniforms let us know Attractive booklet of other styles on request. Write for it. S. E. Badanes Co. Dept. H, 66-76 West 23rd St. New York City

<7 The Delicate Freshness of a Young Girl’s Skin is closely reflected in a toilet made with LA MEDA COLD CREAMED POWDER. This new toilet luxury leaves a velvety film of beauty in every tiny crevice of the flesh, —not only powdering with a magic touch, but also softening and protecting. After you have use a r h fe da there is no need of a powder puff—not all day long. Not affected by wind, rain nor perspira- tion, yet gives no over-done or artificial ap- pearance, Any druggist or toilet counter anywhere can get LA MEDA COLD CREAMED POWDER for you or we will send it postpaid upon re- ceipt of 65 cents a jar. Three tints: White, Flesh and Brunette. Send the Coupon for a Trial Jar and judge for yourself the wonders of LA MEDA.

La Meda Mfg. Co., 103 E. Garfield Blvd.,Chicego Please send handsome miniature test jar of LA MEDA Cold Creamed Powder in the tint. I enclose 10 cents silver for postage and packing (or more convenient). ——— and 2c stam 12c stamps

Address.... oe I usually buy my toilet goods from ee reeeeeee

191

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Lithe as a dancer's limbs, Soft as a maiden’s lashes— Futurist garments, whether they be fashioned in the shim- mering silks of the Orient or of sheerest nainsook, are a joy to wear and dress over. They fit so softly, they give a new free- dom to the walk. Cut in round or bodice tops, they may be had in textures snowy white or of a dainty peachbloom hue. Futurist is offered in the better stores and shops. If you have the slightest difficulty in finding it, drop a note to Anita Allison, 310 W. Erie Street, Chicago. She will tell you where. Misses’ numbers now available in sizes 8 to 18. THE FUTURIST COMPANY 310 W. Erie St., Chicago, U. S. A. New York Office: 130 W. 42nd St. This is FUTURIST B221, which is of sheerest nainsook, in flesh or white, with hemstitched bodice, shoulder straps and legs. Invisibly buttoned. Stout Sizes 46 to 58 Bust Sold by Lane Bryant New York Chicago Detroit ee eI Rist WOMAN’S MODERN UNDERGARMENT OFFERINGS AT THE BETTER STORES IN THE KNIT UNDERWEAR DEPARTMENTS

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of Bracloch. The Betty Wales Dress shown above is made The Betty Wales dealer in your town will gladly show it to you. Ginghams for Lasting Satisfaction INGHAM might be a fabric woven by Dame Nature world for her loom. the brown of the road, all the colors of way- side posies, are used in this radiant fabric. And so gingham is the wash material which never loses sway over feminine hearts and fashions. herself, with the wide ‘The greens of the hills, arkhill The finish of this gingham makes it last- ingly delightful. Frocks of Parkhill Gingham are slow to soil and do not muss readily. Sun 26 YEARS GUARANTEED Ginghams Parkhill Ginghams are made in such a wide range of patterns that you will find it hard to choose a favorite. Parkhill Manufacturing Co., Fitchburg, Mass. and water do not dim their colorful charms, for these ginghams are fast color. The samples shown here, reproducing re- duced patterns, are chosen from several hundred patterns, and show the beauty of Glen Royand Braeloch. Look for the yellow thread along the selvage. Makers of Glen Roy, Braeloch, Toile du Nord, Imperial Chambray Dealers everywhere. Amory. Browne 2 Co, cAgents, New York and Boston

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Copyright 1920—The Palmolive Company

Every complexion needs soap F you have the superstition that soap does not agree with your skin, one of two things is wrong. You are either usin’ the wron$, soap, or the right soap the wrons, way. True, an oily skin needs different care from one which is over-dry. But dirt, oily secretions, pow- der, that touch of rouge, must be washed away. Otherwise they will clog the pores and actually poison the skin. Cleopatra knew this simplest of beauty secrets. Those who picture her as depending upon cos- metics to enhance her beauty are sadly wron}. It is true she rouged and probably powdered, as most women do today. But thorough, radiant cleanliness was her first law. How did Cleopatra wash her face? In Palm and Olive Oils, Nature’szentlecleansers, just as you may today. While hers was a crude combination and yours the perfected blend, the principle is the same. Buy a cake of Palmolive soap, made from these same fine oils, and follow these simple directions. They will make your skin smooth and soft, your complexion clear, fresh, slowing, and rosy. If you have an oily skin Rub up a stiff Palmolive lather between your hands and massage it softly into your skin untilit penetratesevery pore. Rubjently. Youmustn’t roughen the delicate texture of the skin with harsh treatment. Use pleasantly warm water. Then dissolve this creamy lather with pentle rinsing, cooling the water until it 1s refreshingly cold. Keep on rinsing until you are sure that every particle is washed away —carrying with it the dirt, excess oil deposits, dead skin, dried perspiration, the remainin®, traces of rouge and powder—all poisonous deposits which clog pores and invite blackheads, blotches and general skin imperfections. A clean skin is a healthy skin, as all physicians will tell you. If your skin is dry If you must supplement the natural oils of the skin with applications of cold cream, apply a generous coat of Palmolive Cold Cream before you do any washin3. Then follow the same directions ,iven above. Be just as thorough in applyin® the lather, rinse just as carefully. Dry your face gently with soft clean towel, and then look into your mirror. You will find your skin as smooth as velvet, supple and fine textured. A final touch of the cream may be added as desired. The striking thing about Palmolive Manufactured in small quantities Palmolive would be a very expensive soap. But enormous pro- duction has reduced cost until its moderate price is a striking feature. The Palmolive factories work day and night—ingredients are imported from over-seas in enormous volume. And so Palm- olive costs no more than ordinary soaps. You can afford it for every toilet purpose. Remember there is no greater luxury than a bath with Palmolive. Palmolive soap is sold by dealers everywhere.

9ALMOLIVE The Palmolive Company, Milwaukee, U.S.A. The Palmolive Company of Canada, Limited, Toronto, Ontario oneeez

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