Harper's Bazaar 1917-04: Vol 52 Iss 4

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the Paris Openings cael . we. a \ azar PRICB’25 CENTS APRABL — | %1 7 i)

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Especially valuable to the touring motocrist is FISK FREE TIRE SERVICE ous CDirect Fisk Branches in Couring peincipal cities throughout the mn Ourny limes countty, and along the favorite touring routes, render this service without charge no matter what make of tires you use.“Fisk Service incurs no obligations and telieves you of all anxiety about your tives. Before leaving home write to The Fisk Rubber Company of N.Y.,Chicopee Falls, Mass. (manutacturers of the famous RED TOP, Tire de Luxe) tor complete list of Fisk Branches, and avail yourself of Fisk Service along the way.

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TIFFANY & CO. JEWELRY SILVERWARE THE HIGHEST QUALITY ASSURES PERMANENT SATISFACTION THE TIFFANY BLUE Book- NOT ILLUSTRATED GIVES DESCRIPTIONS AND PRICES FIFTH AVENUE & 37! STREET NEW YORK

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MUN “Onyx” silk Hosiery HE confidence, which every individual wearer has in “« ONY.X”’ hosiery, is the basis of the great and increasing popularity of this brand. you at your dealers Sole Owners and Wholesale Distributors of “ONYX” Hosiery Oe The confidence of every wearer—born of long experience—justifies your confidence and trust in this tried and trusted brand. Newest Spring Styles in novel spirited designs await go now and make your selection while stocks are complete. If you need our help in finding your exact requirements, write to us. Emery -Beers Company, inc. Broadway at 24th Street, New York Reg US Pat. Office Fifticth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 191; TTL) AEA DNNENEAL ET EST TNT 83 33 73 53 ¢} ' i}

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Ty 7

0 Franklin Simon 8 Co = => : LONDON Fax) Fifth Avenue, 37th and 38th Streets, New York 29 Jewin Crescent

PARIS 4 Rue Martel Misses’ Tailored Suits

Embroidered or Silk Braid Trimmed SIZES 14 TO 20 YEARS

No. 187—Misses Braid-bound Suit of navy men's wear serge, Oxford suiting or $3 No. 183—Misses’ Embroidered Gabardine sf Suit in nav\', tan, Copen or gray; white

ai cloth over-collar, back of belt and patch black-and-white checked worsted; straight { ue pockets embroidered in Oriental colors; line semi-fitted coat with notched collar and f =H sleeves tucked into cuffs: skirt with inset : a revers; four braid-bound pockets, bone but- ie =? side pockets, detachable belt; novelty bone ists ee 185 Nort ton trimmed; gathered back skirt with tai- tf ‘ i buttons. : Sees “ gare <A lored pockets, detachable belt. te { p A come mm ~ ‘ 29.50 4 29.50 No. 185—Misses’ Braid-bound Serge Suit in navy, tan, white or black, also of black-

HATS and SHOES illustrated, anvd-white Shepherd checked worsted; semi- sg fitted belted coat, box-pleated below belt, — wah 2 = from our shops pointed at front, button trimmed slashed Spring and summer style boo rt Prices upon application sides ; notched collar with Directoire revers. “CORRECT DRESS” : The barrel skirt has inset pockets empha-

j sizing the new barrel lines. Illustrating Everything in Ready-to- | - 1 ier ine) Wear Apparel for Women, Misses, | i ; ° Girls, Boys, Children and Infants fie Prompt Delivery Free | 39.50 * ‘ ee te Anywhere in the United States | Mailed out-of-town upon application bias 4iny e e nite a ‘ to Dept. “H” iF | insacini el Hess TOTTTETTE

Fiftieth Anniversary Year 3 Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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.. BONWIT TELLER G CO. | Re de Para The SpecialtyShop of Originations FIFTH AVENUE AT 38™STREET, NEW YORK Philadelphia 13th and Chestnut Sts, Originated by and Exclusive with Bonwit Teller & Co. for the Hard-to-Fit Girl of 12 to 16 Years DELCHESTER EVERSLEIGH “ EVERSLEIGH ” —Two-piece ‘‘Flap- per” frock of taffeta or ramie linen em- broidered in oriental colorings. Detachable vest and cuffs. In navy, Copenhagen, rose, sage or beige taffeta 20.00 In white, maize, rose, tan or Copenhagen ramie linen 12.75 “ORFORD”—“Flapper” afternoon frock of taffeta with stitchery in contrasting color. White Georgette collar, vest, and cuffs. In beige, navy, sage, Copenhagen or rose. 00 “WARRENTON”— “Flapper” party frock of Georgette crepe with embroi- dered motifs. Satin girdle and bindings. In Copenhagen, rose, beige, flesh or white. 20.00 “MAIDSTONE”— “Flapper” frock of Georgette crepe and taffeta in Empire effect. Hand embroidered satin collar. In navy, gray, beige, rose, reseda or Copen- hagen. 25.00 “DELCHESTER" “Flapper” frock of navy or white serge. The braid trimmed tunic is belted in patent leather. White charm- “ WYTHE ” — Two-piece “Flapper” frock of chambray gingham with Russian smock and plaited skirt. Pique vest and cuffs. In blue, pine, leather or reseda. 5.9: “CARDINGTON”— Hand embroidered and hand smocked “Flapper” frock of cotton Chinese crepe. In blue, pink or tan. 12.75 “HARROW” — “Flapper” top coat with detachable over- collar of white pique. The convertible collar may be worn open or closed. In navy, Copenhagen or tile serge or black and white velour checks. euse collar. 23.75 18.50 Mail orders promptly filled Telephone Murray Hill 7300 CARDINGTON Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1017 +

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it Sts, —— Paris Paradis 42 Rue de BONWIT TELLER &CO. ....... | The Spocialty Shop of Originations hand Cheat FIFT HAVENUEAT wos om NEW YORK \ | | CRAIGMERE “Jeune Fille” Fashions Youthful Types Originated by and Exclusive with Bonwit Teller & Co. FOR MISSES—SIZES 14 to 18 “TIVERTON”—A taffeta frock “ CRAIGMERE ”— Misses’ coat / which features the new barrel skirt. with the new barrel silhouette. Of / The stitchery is in contrasting color. navy, black or castor tricotine with f The vestee of white chiffon. In navy, 29.50 Copenhagen, black, beige or gray. 18.50 amber buckle and buttons. “HEATHCOAT”—Tailleur frock “DERBYSHIRE”—Coat of burella of serge and satin with white satin over-collar. In beige serge with navy salin or navy serge with black satin. 25.00 “ WYCLIFFE ”—Crepe meteor blouse frock embroidered in Persian colorings. White charmeuse collar. Knife-plaited shirt. beige, gray, rose or white. In navy, black, 25.00 \ DERBYSHIRE cloth lined to the waistline with peau de cygne. Convertible collar and new “trench-plaited” back. In rose, gold, green or blue, two-tone or mono-tone. 25.00 “ BURLINGAME ”— Frock of serge and Georgette crepe with con- trasting stitchery and patent leather belts. White Georgette collar. In navy, beige or white. 25.00 Mail Orders Promptly Filled Telephone Murray Hill 7300 vy BURLINGAME an Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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one corset in particular LL corsets purport to give a stylish figure; most of them will. But one corset in par- ticular, the Madame Lyra, has won special favor with fashionable women. Those especially, who are familiar with the best of Parisian modes, recognize in Madame Lyra Corsets that wonderful grace of line and modeling for which the French designers are so justly famed. It is the combination of chic Parisian style and American expertness of making that results in such perfect corsets as the Madame Lyra models for spring. Madame Lyra Corsets are not found everywhere; they are however, found in every city, in the better stores, where you may also have the service of experience corset- ieres in properly adjusting the corset for the first wearing. You will see in these models why Madame Lyra Corsets are so desirable Model 5456— For Medium Figures Luxurious ease and chic style are beautifully combined in this splen- did corset. The top is lowin front Model 4204 —For Full Figures The taller, heavy figure with well- developed thighs, will be moulded fashionably and comfortably in but higher in back to care for flesh of shoulders. Has long skirt with elastic lacing belowclasp and three pairs of hose supporters. May be had in white or pink Silk Brocade. Sizes 19 to 30, $8.50. Model 3629 is same design in white Cou- til. This corset has lacing under the two front hose supporters. Sizes 20-30, $5.00. this corset. The low bust is amply full while the long skirt, with elastic gores, controls the thighs most comfortably. Made of specially selected white Coutil. Sizes 24 to 36, $6.50. Same model in imported Coutil, $8.50. Same model in Silk Brocade, ’$10. 00. Model 3669 —For Medium Figures Designed especially for medium and taller figures, this corset has just the features necessary to give a fashionable silhouette, graceful poise and comfortable freedom of movement. Medium height bust with higher back and long skirt. Lacing below plush lined clasp and elastic gores in skirt. In fine Silk Brocade, white or pink. Sizes 19 to 30, $8.50. Same design without elastic gores, $7.50. Same design in Brocade, $5.00. You’ll find it stamped in gold Ask at the Better Stores to see ‘“‘your’’ model $3.50 to $25.00 Catalog if desired LYRA CORSET MAKERS Look for the name Madame Lyra. inside each corset. DETROIT NEW YORK CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO = — ((z—\¥ 2 =, % hoe - o sdk Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 6

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gR KASETION Ape SJpue to Paris A charming model by Weeks arrived from Paris. We held this page to have it copied. It is here sketched, model C. This is just one incident in gathering the modes. Harper's Bazar readers must have the very latest ideas of Paris. Paris-designed Millinery—Our own Parisian modiste designed each of these chapeaux; adapting the inspiration of Paris whence she has just come. These hats were made in our own atelier. A-HB4—Frock of wool jersey in white, tur- quoise, gold, rose or green; collar of white linen; white buttons on sleeves and sash. 50. StS —-Crngees of hemp in’ marine-blue, black, brown, Bordeaux, gray, green, lavender, taupe, or sand; thistle-effect pom-pom of feathers in contrasting colors. Note the Y unique effect of the ribbon trimming. An f iw adaptat‘on of a Lanvin model. . H ad B-HB4—Titfeta frock in navy blue, bisque, gon pearl gray, Belgium blue or black; over hd \ B collar of flesh-color Georgette crepe. $28.50. i = 4.10 \ eae B-HB4—Chapeau of taffeta and Neapolitan ¢ . straw; the latter forms the effective up / Fi standing edge around the brim. Practically f every color of the season. An adaptation ‘ of a Lanvin model. $12. LS ls en ae lt 7A) Wh ty ¢ Whe. “ONS* \| Mi . iicess uw : B C = = _— ", (mn | Mie. Ll C-HB4—Reproduction of a model by Weeks; satin in taupe, navy i. tan or black; heavy stitching to match; Geor- gette crepe yoke and collar also match satin. This gown has one of the best interpretations of the new Tonneau skirt. $45 C-HB4—An adaptation of a sailor by Talbot; in hemp, faced with satin; black, navy blue, emerald, dark green, rose, tan, brown, gray or taupe; motif of tiny roses. $12. D-HB4—Reproduction of a suit by Cheruit in Poiret twill; navy blue or black; vestee, collar and covered buttons of white or gray “Khaki-Kool.” Also rookie-color with collar, vestee and buttons of tan Poiret twill. $42.50. D-HB4—An adaptation of a new sailor by Lanvin; black hemp with shirred silk facing in marine blue, wine, chatain or black. E-HB4—An adaptation of a Lanvin suit in navy blue, black, or tan serge; also in black-and-white shepherd check worsted; over-collar of natural-color tussor. § " E-HB4—An adaptation of a tricorne by Talbot; in black split straw with quills in black, chatain, old blue, marine blue, tan, gold, green, cerise, gray or emerald. $15. F-HB4—Sports suit of wool jersey in navy blue, rose, white, gold or Copenhagen blue. The back of the coat as well as the back of the skirt is box pleated. $29.50. F-HB4—An adaptation of a Talbot model; in English picot straw; rose, purple, marine blue or black; with bow of the new moss-like straw in contrasting colors, $10. Y wl Mi salar | Y es Se ee Y / at AL 1 sili ut = SOUIN WANAMAKER NewYork 3 \\\"s (tue A , Nien Fiftieth Anniversary Year 7 Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 fi rT H } i]

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woman well gloved is a woman well dressed “said a great Zrenchman Smartly cut gloves- of beautiful fabric add the finishing touch of chic to the toilette of the well dressed woman > Reason the more for the appreciation of CC SILK GLOVES. FITTTTITITITITITITITINITTTTITTTTITTTITTTTITITTTTTTTTTTT TTT TTT TTT TTT TTT NIAGARA SILK MILLS OF NORTH TONAWANDA,NEW YORK, MANUFACTURERS OF “NIAGARA MAID” UNDER-GAR MENTS AND ‘NIAGARA MAID" CRAVENETTE SILK JERSEY CLOTH. CHICAGO OFFICF, MENTOR BUILDING—SAN FRANCISCO OFFICE, WILEY B. ALLEN BUILDING—PARIS OFFICE, 19 BOULEVARD DE STRASBOURG NEW YORK OFFICE, 321 FIFTH AVENUE AT 32nd STREET.

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HOMO VNV00UUU0U00000000000000 0 AEE imbel Brothers | Store Your Furs at Gimbels Broadway and 33rd Street New York renee a HUUUUUUUUUUUUOUUONUUYOANANONOGNANNNOOUOEUEUEOEUUTTUTTTTY Spring Apparel % for Women and Misses ~ rs aes A—Women’s Suit in Burella Cloth or Jersey Cloth. Pleated jacket, 5 gas convertible collar. Skirt is belted and has patch pockets. Gold, ms purple, Shadow Lawn or rose. $29.50 B—Women’s Coat-Frock of French Serge, semi-lined with Peau de Cygne. Strictly tailored with stitching and button-trimming. Black, navy, Copenhagen or rookie. C—Jersey Sports Coat, of Jersey knit fabric. Draped collar with scarf ends. Rose, Copenhagen, gold, mustard or green. $19.50 D—Misses’ Sports Suit, of Gunny Sacking cloth. Side yoke effect in semi-full skirt. Jacket shows full belted style with four pockets. Lined with Peau de Cygne. Gold, Apple green, purple, Beaver and Sand color; also gray, Belgian or navy blue serge, 14 to 20 years. $25. E-—-Women’s Light-weight Wool Velour Coat half-lined with F—Misses’ Coat of Wool Velour, panel back with double strap belt Peau de Cygne. Cape-collar. Square pockets running up in forming single wide belt at front. Large collar, patch pockets. strap-effect to high belt. Gold, blue or green. $25. Rose, gold, tan, and Apple green; sizes, 14 to 20 years. $15.75 AAAAACAATTAAATAAAAAT TATA TuAUUUUANUNUUULA 1 ALMOND COM MOAT Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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Philadelphia Newark 34th Street—New York t | | Sites Weal “levelan | SS OPPENHEIM CLUNS &@ = alwa ys a A “Touch of. Vislinchis One-Piece Serge Dresses In Distinctive New Models To these attractive, long-line dresses, now so much the vogue, we have, since early January, devoted a special department. It is, per- haps, this ability to foreshadow coming events in the Fashion World which gives to every Oppenheim, Collins ¢& Co.’s model its delight- ful touch of distinction. The Models Illustrated are to be had at All Our Stores H-30. \n navy or black serge, with stitchwork in contrasting colors, white broadcloth cat} 19.75 and cuffs. H-32. Navy blue serge, wide belt of broad- cloth and patent leather. Collar, pockets nee | 25.00 belt in green, Alice blue or gray. H-34. Surplice model in navy or black serge, ) white satin collar and cuffs, braiding and fringe r 25.00 in contrasting shades. H-36. Navy or black serge with flaring sleeves || of satin, taffeta collar in gray or gold, cn} 35.00 broidery in blue and gold. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, Apvil, 1017 10

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’ A touch of Cutex . : i age . / Nail White under 7 neath the nails re- moves all stains leaves them wn macuiate, it

l DEAL Cir : says: When Sing a see What aw 2 > | | pt i ly Tes Rar and dip it into the Cutex bottle. hen shaped it made the base gently work the stick around the base of | Ft uiwave!’ the nail, pushing back the cuticle. Almost use it always!” Cutex Polish in cake, paste, powder, or liquid form is 25c. Cutex Cuticle Comfort for sore or tender cuticle is 25c. If your favorite store has not yet secured its stock, write direct.

Send 14c now for this complete manicure set If you live in Canada, send 14c to MacLean, Benn & Nelson, Ltd., Dept. 203, 489 St. Paul Street West, Mon- treal, for your manicure set Fill in your name, tear out and send it now with 14c—10c for the complete manicure set and 4c for postage and packing—and get your Cutex manicure set by return mail Contains Cutex Cuticle Remover, Cutex Nail White, Cutex Nail Cake, Cutex Polishing Paste and Cutex Cuticle Comfort, together with cotton, orange stick and emery boards complete. Enough for six “manicures.” Write today. NORTHAM WARREN Se ee ee: 4 fo —_ 9 West Broadway ; : Dept. 203 New York City and ‘get Canadian prices.

Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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ANNOUNCE TWO NEW SHOPS in THE ASTOR TRUST BUILDING 501 Fifth Avenue at 42d Street NEW YORK and THE TOWER BUILDING 4 North Michigan Avenue CHICAGO Peck & Peck have specialized in hosiery for more than thirty years. For every occasion and purpose, street, evening, or sport wear, our hosiery represents the greatest value and the best quality obtainable. Peck & Peck merchandise is sold only by our own re ‘\sa ae 1A shops and through our Mail Order Department. ae i : ©. PECK & PECK EXCLUSIVE HOSIERY 586 Fifth Avenue at 48th St. 448 Fifth Avenue at 40th St. NEW YORK CITY Palm Beach, Fla. Newport, R. I. See || k of white. _. + Especially suitable for _. evening wear. Clings to |; ‘athe ankle: $5.00 8 pairs 7 P 5 ; = | ~ 423—Pure thread ‘silk > . Socks With three rows 7% 2 two-colored clocks. In =~ shades, $3.50" a wo ii a Ir vonvenenesananneeeen ease

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Hn ) f 2 TT TOT EDDA OTK FT] RE EIDE SD DTT EMT OTT DOTTED TOT ETE OTT OT ARO ATO OTTO OTT ERATOR) Springtime Brings New Modes 3 for Children A H Coat of navy serge or shepherd check with hand embroidered collar of white pique. Silk lined throughout. $6.49 Hat of fine milan, rose or navy, with velvet ribbon and velvet cherries. $4.89 4 Taffeta coat with corded Em- pire waist. Georgette crepe col- lar and cuffs hemstitched and hand embroidered. $9.74 Hat of taffeta and straw with hand embroidered crown and silk roses. $6.49 Coat of navy serge or shepherd check with hemstitched collar and cutts of white pique. $4.89 All taffeta hat, corded and shirred, with velvet ribbon streamers. $3.20 (Sizes 2 to 6 years) M i ij 3 ! ne, A HERALD SQUARE NEW YORK * [Vhite sergecoat with round yoke in back. Hand scalloped collar and cuffs. Twill lining. $7.49 Hat of white silk straw with silk flutings and rosebuds. $4.49 (Sises I, 2 and 3 years) Empire dress of fine white French voile, pin tucked; satin ribbon drawn through neck and sleeves. $2.89 Dress of fine white French voile with clusters of pin tucks; front with Philippine hand em- broidery; dainty satin ribbon rosette; picot edging. $2.89 Empire model of very fine white French voile with clusters of colored French knots; neat embroidery edge and clusters of pin tucks, $5.74 Dress of sheer nainsook with Val. lace and embroidery inser- tions. Shirred satin ribbon sash with bow at back. $4.89 (Sizes 2 to § years) ree Ui WOVE Aa init Nil ti Wr Wty VS WW WW? YW Vdd OR WY DY PYM VY NY AY ee Vir Mlle My Wh Ml Wty NONE SAY Y OWI) res WN NT Fifticth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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HIS Lucie Hamar model is typical of the effective designs in Aitken Trimmed Hats now being shown by the leading mil- liners and stores of the country.

OU ean be sure of style and quality if | you go to the principal store of your city and ask to see Aitken Hats and Veils. | When you buy both Hats | and Veils carrying this mark you are as sure of Aitken style and Aitken quality as if you were shop- | ping in our former retail store at Broadway and Eighteenth Street.

Since our business is now entirely wholesale, may we tell you where you can ob- tain our Hats, Veils or Dress Making Materials ? Aitken, Son & Company 417 Fifth Avenue

NEW YOR K

Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 10!7

The Silks Supreme of a

Silk Season —_—_—_—<

csporjoplin _Srorussan Youthful and smart are the Spring and Summer fash- ions—bold and daring the designs and colorings. Sport styles and silk fabrics are in vogue. And the silks of the season are SPORTOPLIN and SPORTUSSAH — soft and adaptable in texture, inimitable in pattern, bewildering in color variations. The most beautiful fabrics on the silk counters this season are SPORTOPLIN and SPORTUSSAH—the

most modish sport apparel shown in the shops is developed in these two materials. Wear SPORTOPLIN and SPORTUSSAH—the silks supreme.

REILING & SCHOEN, Inc. 260 FOURTH AVENUE, NEW YORK wil

Furniture of Livable Character , = modest or pre- tentious one’s dweiiing, its chief charm rests, after all, upon the manner of its | furnishment. | Quite apparent then, q is the wisdom of _ choosing those appoint- /ments which infuse with _a truly livable atmosphere the formal as well as in- formal rooms, whilst con- | tributing no meagre mea- 'sure of decorative dis- _ tinction.

In this interesting es- tablishment, for two- score years devoted exclu- | sively to Furniture, there exists an opportunity to make such a selection— without the distraction of irrelevant objects. without the objection of prohibitive cost. Its diversified exhibits encompass Furniture of every notable epoch and include many unusual oc- casional pieces not else- where retailed. Suggestions may be gained from gq de luxe prints, of well-appointed interiors, sent gratis upon request. New fork Galleries Grand Rapids Furniture Company INCORPORAT 34~36 West 32% St., New York

oe

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OSTUME JEWELRY by OSTBY & BARTON COMPANY TYLE is always an expression of one’s personality; and it is not to be wondered at that discerning women are so eagerly welcoming the new Costume Jewelry. Now for the first time the woman of taste may choose her jewelry to express herself and perfect the theme of her costume. She now has at her command the designs of the foremost jewelry artists of both this country and Europe—the wealth of color, the variety of form and composition, the individuality and feeling for effect long known to European women of fashion in their jewelry. Costume Jewelry in America is the creation of the old. established house of Ostby and Barton, celebrated ev for their exquisite work in the precious metals. It is made altogether in 14K yellow gold, green gold and white gold (with the color and luster of platinum), set with genuine precious and semi-precious stones—each piece the individual work of one of a very few exceptionally gifted craftsmen. These beautiful Costume Rings, Brooches and Pendants are not to be found in casual shopping, but may be had of representative costume shops and department stores in the larger cities, and of first-class jewelers. Ask for-Costume Jewelry by name. OSTBY & BARTON COMPANY A, RHODE ISLAND x ra. Fiftieth Anniversary Year hae rper s Basar, April, 1917

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ATTRACTIVE WEDDING GIFTS For Every Outdoor Pleasure Whether your outdoor pleasure be in riding, camping, tramping, canoeing, hunting or fishing, there is a Duxbak or Kamp-it garment to meet your exacting needs. uxba These garments are made of a specially woven cloth, cravenette proofed to pro- tect against wind or weather. This Antique Gold Mirror, with its | g 5 | charming French design, p ssesses the additional advantage of "har ing an un- breakable top. It is 27” high and 8%” | wide, and costs but $3.50. Handwrought Sheffield is distinctive, and | this after-dinner Coffee Set is a sple ndid example of this ware. The price, for | sugar bowl, creamer, pot and tray, com- plete, with the monogram free, is $25.00. Kamp-it clothes are of lighter cloth, service- able, attractive, comfortable—but not rain- proofed. Both Duxbak and Kamp-it clothes are carefully designed and tailored tor comfort and service—into a large variety of garments. Your dealer has Duxbak and Kamp-it. If not, send for our 1917 Style Book and samples of cloth. Utica-Duxbak Corporation 14 Hickory St., Utica, N. Y. Successors to Bird, Jones & Kenyon Dealers send for our proposition. Shetiield Ware possesses the unique advantage of being both rich in appearance and low in cost. Particularly desirabl e is this Cracker and Cheese Set in pierced design, Butler Anish, at $10.00. The Cheese Dish itself is of engraved glass. An unusually low figure is the A fashionable way to serve candies is in $6.50 asked for this Chop Set | | this new glass candy jar, attractively dec of a platter and twelve Tichee, eee ee . orated u ith light bl black, or yellow The Greek key design of black ; A O | Am enamelled band and "pink roses. In the is on a coin gold band. i ; n rigina erican pound size the price is $7.50; to hold | three pounds, $10.00. é >) BE POTTERY |[@ Charm and Distinction | a é mellow and mottled glazes rich and varied tones exquisite forms. oe ee ees ies hacia DE i Individual . 2 Decorative ; Enduring $3 Moderate cost. There’s ‘ ‘just the place’’ in every home for at least one piece of FULPER ° : ' — Sold by the be where: So [E people make a practice of giving the lhc Ronee Goa same sort of wedding gift every time. That is both unimaginative and unnecessary. At “i Se ee eet sf, i es FULPER, Studio and Shops: New York Exhibition Flemington, N. J. 333 Fourth Ave. Old Tiffany Studio Bidg. Ovington’s there is variety enough to make the selection of a distinctive, different gift quite simple, no matter what you plan to spend. Send for the Ovington Gift Book. | OVINGTON’S || 312-314 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK weit ae j MEDAL OF HONOR—HIGHEST AWARD. PANAMA-PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL © EXHIBITION—SAN FRANCISCO, 1915. . Fiftieth i § Harper's Bacar,

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10—Parasol of khaki-kool silk, chiffon lined; bakelite handle, $45.00. 11—Parasol of tan pongee silk, hand-em- broidered; lined with green China silk; leather loop, $15.00. 12—Imported Fan, with colored spangles in various designs; bone mountings, $7.50. 13—Imported Quill Fan, in various colors, with sandalwood or bone sticks, $6.75. 14—White Calfskin Pumps, covered wood heels, $10.00. Silk Hose, black, white, silver, gray, or gold, $3.25. 15—White Satin Evening Slippers, covered wood heels, $7.50. Silk Hose, black or white, $6.00. H. Altman & Cn. FIFTH AVENUE—MADISON AVENUE THIRTY-FOURTH AND THIRTY-FIFTH STREETS NEW YORK NECESSARIES OF DRESS FOR THE SPRING AND SUMMER DAYS Mail Order Literature sent on request 16—Tan Oily-grain Golf Oxfords, leather heels, $10.00. Imported Wool Sports Hose, various designs, $5.00. 17—Black Calfskin Walking Pumps, covered wood heels, $10.00. Silk Hose, white with black or black with white, $3.50. 18—Fan-shape Crystal Comb, with emerald and sapphire colored stones, $19.00. 19—Oriental Bead Necklace, with pendant, $8.00. 20—Fan-shape Crystal Comb, with emerald and sapphire colored stones, $9.00. 21—Marvex Kidskin Gloves, white, black or tan, $2.50. 22—Marvex Kidskin Gloves length), white or black, $4.25. (16-button 16a 23—Marvex Kidskin Gloves, white, black or tan, $2.50. 24—Beaded Silk Bag, in black or navy blue: with center compartment, purse and mirror, $14.75. 25—-Silk Bag, in black, navy or gray, with purse and mirror, $12.00. 26—Beaded Silk Bag, in black or navy blue; with center compartment, purse and mirror, $13.75. 27—Collar and Cuffs of Georgette crepe, im- itation Venise and plaited net, $3.75. Hat of black lisere straw with crown of pink Georgette crépe and rose petals; finished with black satin bow, $30.00. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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1 bag that lends distine tion to the costume is of taffeta in colours to match or to contrast with one’s new spring suits, and is arried by a metal brace et. It is particularly at tractive in navy blue, B4.75 ———E—E—EE——— oul? This soft satin evening gow sa barrel skirt—because Paris so decrees. It is one of those enviable frocks that looks as fresh and pretty at the end of the dance as it dat the beginning. With the bodice trimmed with sil- er lace, it may be ordered in delightful shades of pale blue, rose, or corn yellow, or in while, 329.76. r ‘ { . J rity fo rsa NYTHING pictured on this page, or on the page op- £% posite, will be bought for you by Miss Jane Jarvis of Harper's Bazar without charge for her services, and will be delivered post free anywhere in the United States. In the Mood and the Mode of Spring Tucked linen collar and cutis set ave charming for suits, serge frocks, or linen gowns. In rose, green, white, blne, or tan, $1.50, The basket weave straw hat is well suited for sports; in natural coloved straw, brown, raspberry, > an 1 or green, $120. Without a coa robe can be complete Hlerve is one marinesand hasjust arrived from Paris, Of white handkerchief lin- en, piped with rose or blue linen, Reproductions cost $9 a ie purchase any of these new things, simply send cheque or money order payable to Jane Jarvis. If there is a choice in materials or colours, please be sure either to state your preference, or to leave it to Miss Jarvis’s discretion, When you motor to the country club, you will be glad to have a scarf like this, of corn-coloured silk with a black stripe and fringe. Our shopping baas must Other colours are brown, with an strike on oviainal note orange stripe black with white, or violet with white. S150, nowadaus, Faille silk with inserts of soft-toned Chi- nese silk, make a bag that is suitable for any oeca sion. Tn any colour that vou may wish, it is priced at $-. An extremely jaunty hat is of black lisere in the be- coming mushroom shape. The facing under the brim, aud the grosarain ribbon trimming, are of adelight- Sul dull red shade that is so popular in the new mil linery. This hat may be had, too, in any other colour, S150, 7 .no ward- $ | ra | /awy | hai\ f \\ } . yh + S j A\ \ yr £0 Nye Se Vos DA ‘ 4 \e y WY 3 } \\ ©) 7) A a his season, Just the gown for an afternoon bridge or tea, is this one sub- of crepe meteor. Embroidery in a contrasting shade trims the bodice. and satin covered buttons the very uel skirt. Colours, beige with Copenhagen embroidery, worl blue with tan, or grey with blne, S05. The straw hat with Georgetle crepe plaited above ihe brim, costs $17.00. , a.

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The picturesque cupe coat is the smart new thing to weer at the country club or swushore. It is easily donned } } and doffed, and may take dae" the place of either a sweate r te or top-coat, This one is of — vevg bli serge. satin lined; | or of cashmere velours in aspbervu, gold, Chinese by Alneor citron, 839 50, Of dove eusnedeand navublue tat feta is the sports hat. $13.00. LLL. the best New York shops are putting their best foot forward this month, And to shop through Harper's Bazar is to shop in New York — with all of the pleasure and none of the trouble. Here is my own selection from the newest things; and even though you may perhaps find them later, yourself, why not have them immediately ? Through Harper's Bazar you can secure them in advance. By shopping through Harper's Bazar. you are not only spared the necessity of coming to New York in Narrow frills serve as a pretty finish to the finely tucked collar and cuffs of this becoming voile blouse, Nothing is added to the price. but a great deal to the charm. bu the cravat of picoted ribbon that is loosclu tied through large In white or pale pink. Sv.o. buttonholes. There is really no end to the possibilities of a blouse such as this one, material that is soft and pretiy and launders well, aud it is further enhanced It is of voileca addition of Valen ciennes lace. and crochet buttons, and it is available in white or pink for 82.40. person, but you also have more time for other pursuits. Now that the lovely spring days are here, there is so much else for you todo; but lam in New York to do your buying for you, For instance, why not begin with plenty of pretty new blouses? There are delightful copies to be had of the newest Paris importations, looking and comparing. As Lhave said, these two pages offer a very careful selection of new things. One very important thing As coquettish as April weather is this coloured linen blouse. It is the kind that every girl finds to her liking when she be gins to do her spring shopping. In rose, blue or white, with its white piaue collar and trimly buttoned cu fs edge d with a narrow fluting of white linen, it is priced at 3.7: l6c Severely tailored is this suit with the coat and skirt of the new cloth, Charmesie, aud the vest of white pique. Jn the most popular colours, white trivotine and navu tuffeta vest. this suit mau be bouaht for 865.00, The vouthful looking lisere hat trimmed with ribbou covered The very best of them are shown here; selected after a great deal of wige, grew and navy, ov in buttons and loops mau be had in au colours for $12 order them at once. All of these will sell quickly, as the supply is never unlimited. Please be sure to say size you require, and to state your preference whenever there is a choice in colors and materials, And do not forget that anything else you may need can also be bought through Harper's Bazar. ‘There are suggestions on almost every page; and whenever necessary, | will be glad to make a special search for you in the shops. Letters should always be ad dressed thus—Miss Jane Jarvis, Personal Shopping Service. Harper's Bazar, 119 West 40th St., New York Erevu spring wardrobe should include one of these haud- It is of soft finished batiste that will not crush beneath a coat, and is smart and practical for Trimmed with sheer batiste striped with rose, or orchid navy blue and hand-made pleating. $16.50. made French blouses, indoors andont. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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th. dics near .50 th.' Street. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 i Bla hos op it iene —where every hat is an exquisite creation. —where fashion’s mandates are always fol- lowed,—often anticipated, and occasionally first conceived. Our new shop will be the most distinctive es- tablishment on the most distinctive thorofare on the continent. Fifth Avenue, with its inimitable atmosphere can point to no more typical exponent of its distinction than this spacious—yet dainty super-shop. La Galerie Antoinette We've fitted up the Galerie in delicate old rose; as an inner shrine of Fashion. It will be reserved for the presentation of our very choicest creations. The New York “insiders”—the real leaders of style—will find in it a congenial atmosphere that will inspire them to come often. ‘Their out-of-town sisters will find it the most enjoy- able part of their shopping visit. New styles on view every week the year ’round 16d _

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i annnaenseonenennuecseroussetosnensnerssseseset senna’ Te SCHOOLS -- T is always best and safest to settle the school question as early as possible. For, if you let it drag over many months, the chances are that there will be no vacancies in the school that you finally select. advised to use at once, of carefully selected schools for boys and girls. Therefore you are this directory On this page, and the four that follow, you will find a great many schools—but not so many as to include any that are personally unknown to us, or that are not of the very best class. After finding a school that interests you, write promptly for its cata- logue and for any other information that you may want—taking care to say that you saw the announcement in Harper’s Bazar. This will ensure very prompt and careful attention on the part of pages KENNETH N. CHAMBERS the principal who will receive your letter. It is worth remembering that the great difference between this Harper’s Bazar directory of schools, and all other directories, lies not only in the fact that it is edited with very unusual care, but also in the fact that Harper’s Bazar is the on/y magazine that offers you the personal services of an experienced school man—Mr. Kenneth N. Chambers. Find Your School Now! Mr. Chambers took the management of this directory after long and valuable experience as business manager of a well known school directories had no personal But Mr. He is a school man, New York school for giris. As a general rule, of magazines are conducted by men who have experience at all in the management of schools. Chambers is no respecter of this particular tradition. and not a magazine man; he has a knowledge of schools that can be gained—not by casual observation, from the point of view of a man at a desk in a magazine office—but by long working experi- ence in the administration of a very successful school. If you are not fully decided as to the school that will be most satisfactory for your son or daughter, Mr. Chambers’ opinion and assistance will be worth having. There is no charge or fee for it. Already he has served many readers of Harper’s Bazar; he has given them facts about schools that could not have been secured in any other way. You are cordially invited to write to him, if you are at a distance. If you are in New York, he will be glad to call upon you by appointment, and a short tal’s with him may save you many weeks or months of personal investigation on your own account. A letter will always receive careful personal attention if ad- dressed to Mr. Kenneth N. Chambers, 119 West 40th St., Director, Harper’s Bazar New York City. School Service, New York Schools | New York Schools | New York Schools A City School wine eee Advantages SEMPLE SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Opposite Central Park. Boarding and Day Pupils. College Prepara- tory. Special and Finishing courses. Social life. Outdoor recreation. Music and Art Lectures. Mrs.T.DarringtonSemple 241 Central Park West New York City The School Central Park a Catalogue on request. French Home School for Girls Distinctively French Environment PLANNED EXCLUSIVELY FOR THOSE WISHING Box EY Miss Mason’s School for Girls A country. schéol in the Westchester hills overlooking the Hudson, forty minutes from New York.. Graduate and preparatory courses with certificate privilege to leading colleges. Address MISS C. E. MASON, LL.M. Tarrytown-on-Hudson. N. Y. Catalogue and views, address Mrs. E, Russe(( Houghton, Principal larrytown-on Hudson NY TO PURSUE SPECTAL oes IN NEW YORK. . TUNITY TO ACQUIRE FLU- ENT F PENCH AND EVERY ADVANTAGE OF THE CITY PROVIDED FOR. THE 7th YEAR. ADDRESS Miss Macintyre or Mile. Talguen ax RYE SEMINARY A girls’ school, one hour from New York. Diploma for college preparatory Scoville School for Girls 2042 Fifth Ave. and general course. 320 West 107th St., (Riverside Drive) N. Y. City Pe sew privilege to Vassar, Smith, Wellesley and NEW YORK CITY = eee : st eats Resident and Day Unusual advantages in music. Domestic science. pupils. Regular or FI e ° Physical training, riding and outdoor sports. Specs Courses Wilh ° languag art and orence Nightingale School Mrs. Lirr, The Misses Stowe, Principals, asic,” Yiome Pca social life. Vacation and week-end trips. Rye, New York Nervous and Backward Children Boarding School: 238th Street and Riverdale Avenue Day School: 315 West 87th Street Full particulars on application Classes and Gymnasium, Music, with delightful home lite THE GARDNER SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Formerly at 607 Fifth Avenue, Large fireproof building with every modern convenience. Exceptional advantages in Education and has removed to 11 East 51st Street. MISS ELTINGE and MISS MASLAND, Principals. ll Out-door sports Mrs. Helen M. Scoville, Principal Miss Rosa B. Chisman, Associate Principal Open Air East 5ist Street, N. Y. Central Park West, Corner 95th Street, New York RALFE LEECH STERNER, Director New York's modern, up-to-date Music School. A real Home for | Music Students Terms:— Tuition, Board, Practicing, etc. Send for booklet. Europe and America’s Most Eminent Teachers “uN EW YORK SCHOOL of MUSIC AND ARTS RIVERH OOK May Pt Any Day A SCHOOL FOR GIRLS . : All Branches of Music ‘ here that brings out and the Arts taught from the beginning to the highest artistic finish by a distinguished faculty. School Dormitories—Proper Chaperonage There’s a personal and almost indefinable spirit all that is fine and true in a girl’s life. Perhaps it is the very school to which you want to send your daughter. Send for booklet. NYACK, N. Y. 17 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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— — een oeneneneemnenneeees meee senemnaenes - omer cee —_— New York Schools | New York Schools New England Schools = op ¥ _ a sans f Eel FOS = SARS [ Dp se The only | | : : Co | : uniry | The Ely School for Girls | } } +: OC OO HH Ely Court, Greenwich, Connecticut an In the country, one hour from New York = OF als City. Twenty-five acres, modern equip- MI ment. College preparatory and general Charming, healthful, practical in location. | ee atta al 0 pecan || meet the needs of the young girl. ii} courses. Music. Household arts. Daily lI] m oe ae C7 t work in the studio. Horseback riding —_ | I 7 Hy and all summer and winter sports. The i | ° Hiss gro | 1} parents | | 1890 “ARealSchool” 1917 || - The Junior School | H A separate department for girls un- HI der fifteen. Work and play planned to Th | | | | In the great city—yet apart from its distractions. | i Smal] enough to be a real home | Be . ! Large enough to be ‘‘a real school } Lasell Mega apd ing. Small classes and a sympathetic under- ] fteentate Massachusetts. Ten Miles from Boston west standing enable the directors of this school ; —_ to adapt its work intensively to the Worc strength and ability of each pupil. | porary solely t Certificated at all the leading colleges. 1] Brilliant Music Department. Emphasis | laid on this study and Art. A ges eee : a The girls selected for this school loyally | Stas and Art. Sits, thoro Instruction’ ia the theory end respond with voluntary and unselfish Art of Entertaining, House, Furnishing and’ Management, aie . . e Marketing, Cooking, Dressmaking and Millinery. Twenty enthusinm to ite ideals. BeeNceball Picks Hecke Horseback’ Riding Naarea P | For further information address the Principals G. M. WINSLOW, Ph.D., Principal, 127 Woodland Road ° . ° Meets Miss Bangs & Miss Whiton PINE MANOR | ounins i} RIVERDALE AVENUE, NEAR 252nd STREET the be A School for Home Efficiency | } °.i5 ae a. high s A = = = Cen ——— — epmnceretneees satin am : : ary a : n TWO-YEAR course for the graduates of keepit New England Schools Dana Hall and other secondary schools. € Peddii ; : . Higher cultural studies, with emphasis imo on all subjects pertaining to the management Its certi == FOR GIRLS \ of the home. raceme, life and sports. 1 “R. We send students to Vassar, Wellesley, Smith, Mt. Holyoke, miles from Boston. Catalog on application. ‘ Univs. of Mich., IIll.,Cal., Minn.,and other colleges on certificate. sy Many girls, however, after leaving high school do not wish to MISS HELEN TEMPLE COOKE Dwig go to college. But often they desire advanced work in a new Dana Hall, Wellesley, Mass. and | Sel environment with competent instructors, and to select studies === == Gymnas best meeting their tastes and interests. MISS CHAMBERLAYNE’S School for Girls — We offer just these opportunities. Students take English or Literature, but the General, special and college preparatory courses. Miss course otherwise is elective. All subjects count for diploma. Domestic science. Music. Languages—native teachers. pect Graduation from high school not necessary for entrance. No examination required. Out-of-door sports. special THe Fenway, 28. Boston. Mass. physical Special work in voice, piano, violin, cello, harp and pipe organ with eminent Boston masters. A finely equipped school. New buildings (6 in all) with new pipe organ; gymnasium and swimming pool, All outdoor sports. All the opportunities of Boston in Music, Art and historical associations i are freely used. Domestic Scien Art, Elocution. miles from A girl, after leaving grammar pire can begin her studies at Mount Ida and continue them Boston : until she has an education equivalent to two years in College, taking through her whole course ™ an elective program. There are some rooms with hot and cold water, Students for 1917-18 are being accepted Send for New in the order of their applications. MISS McCLINTOCK’S SCHOOL FOR GIRLS | —= Miss Mary Law McC urintock, Principal, 4 Arlington Street, Bosten, Mass. THE CAMBRIDGE SCHOOL for GIRLS Founded in 1886. Resident and day pupils. Schoolhouse and Ne i a i I URE ES RE . ‘ advantag Year Book ; ‘ Residence, cece ag aon ate buildings. General and College pre- ac e = Exceptional oppo rtunitie Ss W paratory course Gesdeatne. Swimming. Athletics. Mintwo m wit h adelightful home life. 86 sateen ST., NE TON, MASS. RUTH COIT, He oa Mis tress, 36-40 Concord Ave., cain : \ wt, Cambridge, Mass. ——— a MASSACHUSETTS, Norton. (40 minutes from Boston.) THE MISSES ALLEN SCHOOL HOUSE IN THE PINES * = A school for girls. Preparatory and finishing courses. Lan- e a ewa \ Each girl’s personality observed guages—native teachers. Music, Household Arts. Every attention, : ‘ : an level ype d. Write for booklet not only to habits of study, but to each girl’ s health and happiness. A School for Girls. Three buildings. Athletic Wier Mewsen. tee MISS GERTRU ~ Non one — : field. Horse m ick riding. Domestic Arts. College = “land Wi: ’ 29 Fairfield Street and HOME SCHOO CHILDREN AND YOUTH preparatory, general and special courses. Miss Guild* Miss Evans School o5 airfield Street a Founded by Mrs. W. D. Herrick, in 1881. Individual training. : Be = eee ae “ Commonwealth Ave., Boston | securing most satisfactory results in self-control, articulation and Miss ALICE E. REYNOLDS, Principal | — yond, Cations Coetiate Putian. Pg teeing 5 application in work and play. Open all the year. Exceptional . 7 Ticerenanen See Peo ) | Work for High School graduates. omestic Science. ative language ) yrt ity for permanent pupils. frerms, $800 @ ) St. Ronan Terrace New Haven, Conn. | | teachers, Suburban Athletic Field. All Sports. Horseback Riding. | °??°Miss ‘Framoce 7. desk te My 8 Tg tA Mass. Miss Jeannie Evans, Prin. Miss Clara A. Bentley, Asst. Prin. —__—__—— — | thle HILLSIDE eras: ris. The Lesley School of Household Arts geile . . a Elizabeth Mead Memorial. One hour from N. Y. THE OUT - DOOR PLAYERS Courses given by Harvard educators, Prepares for home effi- College Preparatory. General and Special Courses. A Summer School Marie Ware Laughton ciency. Dormitory and house mother. : Separate schoolhouse. Lodge for younger girls. Camp ector Mrs. Eottn Lestey Wotrarp, Gymnasium. Small classes. Outdoor sports. PETERBOROUGH, NEW HAMPS SHIRE Miss Lucy MacInnes, MARGARET R. BRENDLINGER, A.B Principals Plays, Pageants un, Life in the Open 29 Everett Street, Cambridge, Mass. VIDA HUNT FRANCIS, B.L. § Princip Russian Ballet ALEXIS KOSLOFF An Ideal Out -Caer, Stage a f hi f ! mane yy ag For 418 Pierce Building, BOSTON, MASS. O er S a Cc OO Girls ———————— | 38 minutes from Boston Faces Rogers Fort Hill Park N H N School of _ Thorough preparation for college. Advanced courses for graduates of high ew aven orma Gymnastics | schools. Yomestic Science. Handicrafts, Music, Art. Large grounds for 1466 Chapel Street, New Haven, Conn. ist year. Fits for teaching, outdoor sports. Experienced instructors in charge of all athletics. New physical training, playground work. Vocational bureau. Dormi- | Gymnasium and Swimming Pool. For catalogue address tories, 2 gymnasiums. New Dining Hall, 9 buildings. Enclosed 3- | Miss OLIVE S. PARSONS, Principal, Lowell, Mass. acre campus. Boathouse, athletic flelds, 80 acres on Sound. | Fiftieth Anniversary Yea Harper's Bazar, April, 19/7 18

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J | aL _———— New England Schools Southern Schools | Pennsylvania Schools — TENACRE— A Country School for Young Girls From Ten to Fourteen Years of Age REPARATORY to Dana Hall. —o miles from Boston. All sports and athletics supervised and ads ipted to the age of the pupil. The finest instruction, care and influence. CC re KE Mass. HE L EN TE MP LE Dana Hall, Wellesley, MISS National Park Seminges og Gir Ss James E pom I The Higher School for High School Graduates. 20 minutes from Washington, D. C. Ideal climate, 65- acre campus, 50 instructors, 30 buildings, division of girls into small home and social groups, limited classes and specialized instruction. Home economics, diploma course. Floriculture. 2 years collegiate work. For catalog address REGISTRAR, BOX 170 FOREST GLEN, MD. | Miss Marshall’s School A school for girls, combining the charm of beautiful suburba: surroundings with the educational advantages of Philadelphia 20 minutes away. College Preparatory and broad general courses. Campus of 4 acres, lake on school grounds, all seasonable outdoor and indoor athletics Teacher for every 6 girls, Junior Dept. Art, Music, insuring rapid progress. Expression, Domestic Science Catalog and book of views on request. Separate Miss E.S.Marshall, Principal, Oak Lane, Phila., Penna. be GERALD B. cuRTIS. p Bm Principal. The Best School to Study Art . . is in Boston—The New School Costume Design. Interior Decoration. Com- mercial Art. Illustrating, Drawing and Paint- ing. Open all the year. Douglas John Connah, Director, 248 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. WORCESTER, Massachusetts. Worcester Domestic Science School 92° 24 Normal and Home-making courses. Trains for teachers of cookery, sewing, matrons, dieticians, housekeepers. The first school devoted solely to Normal Domestic Science training. Graduates occupy exceptional positions. Opens Sept. 18th, 1917 . Address Mrs. A. WETHERED, 158 Institute Road. SWEET BRIAR COLLEGE FOR WOMEN SWEET BRIAR, VA. Degree accepted as basis for graduate work in leading uni- versities. Departments of Art. Music and Home Economics Campus of 3,000 acres in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Unex- celled climate. Out-of-door sports the year roun EMILIE WATTS McVEA, A.M., Litt. D., President. THE ACADEMY—on the College Campus offers preparatory and general courses. For catalogue and views address the Secretary, Box 12. san — Administration Building New Jersey Schools Peddie A School for Boys Meets the parents’ requirement of modern equipment, high scholastic and moral standards and a rational, healthful school life. It secures the enthusiastic co-operation of the boy because of its expert faculty leadership, its body of 300 picked students, its fine equipment for athletics, high standing in all outdoor sports, strong liter- ary and musical clubs and general policy of keeping its students busy in worth-while ways. € Peddie Institute is located nine miles from Princeton, midway between New York and Philadelphia Modern school buildings. Gymnasium, Swimming Pool, Athletic Field and 60-acre Campus, Its certificate is honored by all colleges accepting certificates. En- wment permits moderate rates. 52nd year. Send for catalog. R. W. SWETLAND, LL.D., Headmaster Box 4-S, Hightstown, N. J. NEW JERSEY, Englewood H M4 College preparatory and spe- Dwight School for Girls (ie Pee eitestie: Nets und Science. Certificates accepted by leading colleges. Limited umber of ge ee Spacious groun as. ee to New York. Gymnasium. Tenn riding. Addre 617 MISS "CRE IG HTON and MISS. FARRAR, Principals. NEW JERSEY, Orange Miss Beard’s School for Girls A country school. 13 miles from New York. College special courses. Music, Art, Domestic Arts and Science. atte physical work in gymnasium and field. Catalog on reque Address Miss LUCIE ¢ .B IE ARD. preparatory Southern Schools BRISTOL SCHOOL WASHINGTON Elective, Preparatory, Academic = two years’ Colleg oa Ghiniie ma Course in Music. Separate French Residence. Capital tages Athletics. MISS ‘AL ICE A. BRISTOL, Principal, Mintwo od Place and 19th Street. For Women Hollins College Hollins, Va. Seventy-fifth session. Four year college course leading to A.B. degree; Music, Art, Do- mestic Science, etc.; two-year College Prepara- tory course. Beautifully situated on a 700 acre estate in the healthful Valley of Virginia. Alti- tude 1200 feet. 250 students, 40 officers and teachers. Write for catalogue and views. Address Miss Matty L. Cocke President Box 336 Chevy Chase School (formerly Chevy Chase Seminary). A school for girls, a prepara- tion for womanhood. Washington’s finest and healthiest suburb. Social and civic advantages of the national capital combined with a thoroughly modern education. Catalog on request. FREDERIC ERNEST FARRINGTON, Ph.D., EASTERN ACADEMY 0 m. from Washington. Affiliated with EASTERN COLLEGE, Superior Music Conservatory. Equipment modern. New ‘‘Gym.’ Athletic Sports. Healthful country life. Standard A. B. course in the college. Also 2 year degree course in Domestic Science. Virginia, 2 H Roop, Manassas, Box 2. Dr. H. U. PAUL INSTITUTE a'toanoine scnoot ror cincs A BOARDING SCHOOL FOR GIRLS Regular gc School and College Preparatory Courses. Special Courses. The Arts. Journalism. Short Story Writing. Domestic Science. Business and Library Courses. Parliamentary Law. 2107 S Street, N. W., Washington, D.C. Mary Baldwin Seminary for Young Ladies Headmaster. Pres. Established 1842. Term begins Sept. 12th. In the beautiful and historic Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. Unsurpassed climate, modern equipment. Students from 30 states. Courses: Collegiate (3 years); Preparatory (4 years), with certificate gs Music, Art and Domestic Science. Catalog. STAUNTON, Va Ogontz School Founded 1850 A country school for girls, 12 miles from Philadelphia, on the New York line of the Philadelphia & Reading Railroad. The new build- ings will be occupied in September. Miss Abby A. Sutherland, Principal Montgomery County, Penna. ‘MISS SAYWARD’ S SCHOOL In beautiful suburban P me Each girl individually studied Junior, College Advanced Depart- ments, Art, Music, Express ka All outdoor sports. Open-air swimming pool. Twenty-fifth year. Il lustrated catalog on re quest. Miss S. JANET SAYWARD Principal Overbrook, Pa. and , Domestic Science. MISS MILLS SCHOOL at MOUNT AIRY The original Out-of-door School for well children. A home boarding school for little girls from 6 to 15 years old. Specialized individual care and training during the most formative period of a child’s life. For information, address MISS MILLS, Box B, Mount Airy, Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Woods’ School for Exceptional Children Every facility, in a suburban home, for the care and training of children who, through mental or physical disability, are unable to attend private schools 14 miles from Philadelphia Booklet. _ MOLLIE A. WOODS, Principal PENNSYLVANIA, Roslyn. FLORENCE E. WOODS, Head Nurse. THE MARY LYON SCHOOL 4 Country School in a Col- lege Town. College Vrepara tory. Certificate privileges. General and Finishing Courses Op- portunity for advanced study. One teacher to every six girls. Open air classrooms VEN i our Junior i for eee 6 to 14; separate complete equipment. H. M. CRIST, A.B., FRANCES L. CRIST, A.B., Principals, ‘Box 1510, Swarthmore, Pa. Philadelphia, Chestnut Hill. BOARDING AND DAY SCHOOL FOR GIRLS General and College Preparatory Courses Provided. {rs. CuapmMan and Miss Jones , Principals. YEATES SCHOOL Our experience indicates that every boy is different and must be handled individually to be handled successfully. We have an interest in the boy and a most complete equip- ment for him to-enjoy as he grows. For details address EADMASTER, Box 724, P PENNSYLVANIA, Both LANCASTER, Pa, Campus of ten acres, directly in the city. Representative patronage. School grounds, buildings, and equipment valued at $300,000.00. Graduation aminations. he Washington Collene for Oirls and Vouny Women Twenty-second year begins Thursday, October 4. from High School not essential. Class Grades and recommendations required. SUMMER SESSION No Ex- Outdoor athletics. Regular and special courses and sightseeing. Address F. MENEFEE, President, WASHINGTON, D. C Fiftieth Anniversary Harper's Bazar, April, Year 1917

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Pennsylvania Schools Camps

THE LATSHAW SCHOOL » If your child needs mental or physical adjustment to meet the demands of nor- mal life, secure at once the services of the man who has made such adjust- ments for many fam- ilies. Allen Latshaw

Box A, Berwyn Main Line suburb of hiladelphia), Penn- sylvan For Miss Cowles’ School (Highland Hall) oii EMMA MILTON COWLES, A.B., Head of School. Prepares for all colleges. Certificate privileges. Strong general course. Music, Art and Domestic Science. Healthful location. Gymnasium, Swim- ming Pool and Sleeping Porch. Resident Physical Director. For catalogue address THE SECRETARY. Hollidaysburg, Pennsylvania. . . The Birmingham School FOR GIRLS. Birmingham, Pa. An excellent school offering either Academic or College Preparatory Courses. Beautiful and healthful location in the mountains. Main Line P. 3 New gymnasium, swimming pool, sleeping porch. Physical training. Catalogue. A. R. GRIER, President, Box 135, Birmingham, Pa. BISHOPTHORPE MANOR #62 Gint’s n the picturesque Lehigh Valley, convenient to New York and Philadelphia. College preparatory and finishing courses. Two years cultural course for high school graduates Exceptional advantages. Individual attention. Junior Department CLAUDE N. WYANT, Principal, Box 243,

South Bethlehem, Pa.

THEY ar are fine, manly fellows, every one of them—big men in the making. They come from every state in the Union to spend an active, interesting, constructive vacation with boys of their own high type at LVER’ SUMMER SCHOOLS The Naval School, for boys who love the water; the Cavalry School, for those who want to “‘live in the saddle’’; for smaller boys, the Woodcraft School. Cul- ver Summer Schools have at their command the same instructors and equipment that have given interna- tional reputation to the Culver Military Academy. Write for catalog of whichever school interests you most. Address Information Officer, Culver, Ind. (On Lake Maxinkuckee) ALOHA Camps for Girls Fairlee, Vt., South Fairiee, Vt., and Pike, N. H. distinct 7-13,

Locations: Three te amps—ages, 13-17, 17 F un, Fro lic, Friendships. Swimming, canoeing, horseback rid- ing, tennis, basketball, baseball. Handicrafts. Dramatics. Music. Character development, cultivation of personality and community spirit. Vigilance for health and safety 2 years of camp life. 1000 girls have been in camp and not a single serious accident. Mr. and Mrs. lick’s personal supervision. Splendid equipment. 64-page illus- trated booklet. Mrs. E.L. GULICK, 264 Addington Road Brookline, Mass. Gu-

CAMP OTTER Su Camp for Boys in “THE "HIGHLANDS OF ONTARIO” A sane health-giving vacation, amid surroundings that inspire clean thinking and joyous living. A limited num- ber of boys, with efficient leaders. Real camp life, that will suit the most rugged, and build up those a robust. Under the personal supervision _and direction of C. V. P. Young, Professor of Physical Education, Cornell Univer- sity, Ithaca, Send for Booklet.

For Girls Sargent Camps & *G! a |} 2 oe PETERBORO, N. H. Dr. D. A. SARGENT, President Two camps, Seniors, 14 to 24; Juniors, 8-13 The place for your summer’s outing, where you will find the things you like best. All Field and Water Sports, Horseback Riding and Driving, Arts and Crafts, Nature Study, Dramatics, Singing and Danc- ing. Canoeing and camping on_ picturesque lakes. Monadnock and other mountain trips. Water pageant. Twilight singing on the lake. Safety and health our first consideration. In spite of greater expense our rates are not increased. For illustrated booklet address The Secretary, 26 Everett Street, Cambridge, Mass.

THE HANOUM CAMPS THETFORD, VERMONT Between the White and Green Mountains. Hill Camp for girls under 16—Lake Camp over 16. Come gypsy through the moun- tains, ride horseback, swim, canoe on lake and river, design gowns, jewelry, baskets, leather articles and pottery, cook by the campfire, dance and sing with us next summer. Our girls go home strong in body, mentally alert and inspired with high- est ideals. For illustrations and ey te

ESSOR and RNSWORTH New York City

ROF MRS. H. Teachers College, Columbia pF i, CAMP OXFORD Oxford, Maine One of the oldest and best equipped boys’ camps in New England. If you wish for a healthful, happy, help- ful summer place for your son, send for a Camp Oxford booklet. A. F. Caldwell, A.M. Mrs. Norman White’s CAPE CoD Camp for Girls Orleans, Mass. A Seaside Camp in the pines. All pleasures of life by the sea. Outdoor sleeping in well protected cabins. wo i. 35 Girls from 8 to 16. Long distance Phone. Booklet. dd RS. NORMAN WHITE, 424 West 119th Street, “New York.

Vocational Schools MMM AMERICAN ACADEMY OF DRAMATIC ARTS Franklin H. Sargent, Pres. The Standard Institution of Dramatic Education for 34 years. Connected with amr, Frohman’s Empire Theatre and Companies Spring Term Begins April 3rd Detailed Catalog from the Secretary | Room 175, Carnegie Hall, New York TTT ALVIEN

_

SCHOOLS — Est. 20 Years The Acknowledged Authority on Each department a large school in it- self. pesdemic, Seanmnem sae tyes a tical Training. tudents’ Schoo 1e- atre and Stock Co. afford New York Appearances. For catalogue, write PHOTO-PLAY Thomas Irwin, Secretary D Mentioning Study Desired DANCE ARTS

225 West 57th Street, near Broadway, New York

<0 eee NEW YORK SCHOOL of EXPRESSION Chartered by the Regents of the University of the State of New York Fall Session Mid-Winter Session Oct. 9th to Dec. 22nd. Jan. 4th to May 15th Voice Training, Elocution, Public Speaking, Pantomime, Drama and Photo Play; Classic and Social Dancing; Physical Culture, Class and Individual Instruction. Special Catalogue. CHARLOTTE SULLEY PRESBY, Director 318 West 57th Street ew York City

The National School of Elocution and Oratory The oldest chartered school of Expression in America. Degree granted. Public Speaking, Physical Training, English, Dramatic rt. Professional and Finishing Courses. Dormitories. For catalog, address D. A. SHOEMAKER, Principal. Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, 927 Parkway Building

MassacuusetTts, Boston, 779 Beacon Street Posse Normal School of Gymnastics 29th year. New buil: ee Courses of one, two and three years. Positions for graduates. Similar courses in Medical Gymnastics and Playgr« yunds, Apply to Tue Secretary.

= ONEKAMA, ry ee! Under the management of Todd Seminary for Boys, Woodstock, , 20 acres. *Ssuue hiking boating, swimming. Wonderland of woods an TOSEBO ater. Unusual equipment. Reasonable rates. Overnight boat ride (direct) from Chicago, Vocational Schools Short-Story Writing COURSE of forty lessons in the history, form, ee and writing of the Short-Story taught

by Dr. J. Berg Esenwein, for years Editor of Lippincott’s. One student writes:—‘‘Before completing the lessons, received | over $1,000 for manuscripts sold to Woman’s Home Companion, McCall's, Pictorial Review and other dii Also courses in Photoplay Writing, Versification and Poetics, Journalism. In all over One Hundred Courses, un- der professors in Harvard, Brown, Cornell, and other leading colleges. Please Address

Dr. Esenwein 150-Page Catalog Free. The Home Correspondence School Dept. 135, Springfield, Mass.

Register for Next Year

New York School of Fine and Applied Art FRANK ALVAH PARSONS, President 10 Departments For SUMMER and WINTER ANNOUNCEMENTS write | | Classes Filled |

SUSAN F. BISSELL, Sec. 2239 Broadway, N. Y. | 72 Washington Sq. Modern Art Schoo South, New York Study art where artists work and live. Fine Arts, Interior Decoration, Costume Design.

CAMP TECONNET FOR GIRLS

On our own island, China Lake, Me Dining hall, assembly house, tents Swimming, canoeing, motor-boating, land and water sports. Crafts and dramatic projects. Personally directed by MR. CHARLES F. TOWNE (Assistant Superintendent of Schools) and MRS. TOWNE. Address 16 Eames St *rovidence, UANSE "THE CAPE COD CAMP for GIRLS Q Established 1:05. Swimming, canoe- salling—safest conditions, expert musical comedy, horseback riding Separate camp for little girls. Instruction; land sports, Exceptional equip- Unusual results ing. pageantry, ment and location. in health and vigor Mrs. E. A. W. Hammatt, 710 Commonwealth Ave., Newton Centre. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

THE FIFTH AVENUE SECRETARIAL SCHOOL Beloved of Students Approved by Parents Endorsed by Employers 503 Fifth Avenue at 42nd Street #liss Conklin’s Secretarial School Eighteenth Year. C ’ Buildi 37 WEST 39th STREET “te °t-

jal Bng¢i

NEW YORK

Dressmaking Schools a The Art of Dressmaki ng You can now learn in your own home the sec- rets of fashionable dressmaking. Through fas- cinating, wonderfully illustrated lessons you can easily and quickly learn every detail of garment construction—how to draft patterns, cut, \ make, drape and trim fashionable garments of every kind. Also just how to interpret and apply each new style development in making clothes for yourself or others. A complete and thoroughly practical course that will prepare you to take up dressmaking, make your own clothes or direct the work of your modiste. Endorsed by experts and hundreds of delighted students. An equally com- plete course in Millinery, Send for handsome booklet, stating whether most interested in home or professional dressmaking or millinery. Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts and Sclences Dept. 36R. 388 5 Fifth th Avenue, | New ' r Y.

e — Dressmaking 2s", g Cutting and Millinery genprcientvels and thoroughly taught by the S. T. Taylor System (invented 1848). Pupils make their own dresses in class. Schools throughout the country. For full information address S.T. TAYLOR CO., Publishers of LE BON TON Dept. H, 13-15 West 34th St., N. Y. C.

LEARN DRESS DESIGN 20 Illustrated Corresp 1 $20.00 Direction of Carl N. Werntz Everybody who. makes, wears, buys, sells or designs clothes needs this valuable and fascinating course. THE CHICAGO ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS Department H 81 East Madison Street, Chicago —_

|| The Parls ‘Design Shop” of America. Correspond, ence and Resident Courses by ‘‘Parisian Method for Creative Designing, Planning Costumery a Fashions for all Trades. Pattern Making, etc., for all pramches. Only Complete Designers’ Course. Costume SALON Design STUDIO 3 5th aimed New York City, N. Y. De Luxe DRESSMAKING AND MILLINERY designing and pattern rac eee sauens for wholesale, retail or home use. MuDD and evening Scho Call or write for particulars. weit | DRESSMAKING AND MILLINERY SCHOOLS Shartered sq Regents 25 West 3th Ste ‘7 York 209

. State St., Chicage

The boys

| =| | [fin

Page 27

ry | ae “ STE | ™ Mackenzie School On Lake Walton, Monroe, N.Y. New York Schools | New York Schools | New York Schools NE of the more conservative Eastern Schools for boys, situ- ated in the Upper Ramapo region of Orange County, near Tuxedo and West Point. The limited enrollment assures a su- perior class of boys, and permits careful individual, as well as vigorous group, instruction. The elevation of approximately 1,000 feet justifies many family physicians in recommending the health conditions of this school. The climate in its region is in strong contrast to the climate nearer the New York, or New Jersey, coast lines. The location, 2% miles from the village, in the open country, gives great satisfaction TIC The Upper School is for boys from 12 years, and the Lower School for to parents. , . — PLAY boys from 9 years. In common with recent boarding school foundations in There are a few vacancies for the coming Spring Term; but England, it is believed there are signal advantages in having younger boys early application for the next School Year, 1917-1918, is advisable. ARTS|§ in the same school community with older boys, provided that a high stand- York|— ard is maintained in the Upper School. Correspondence and conference invited; address the Registrar, { ol Mackenzie School, Monroe, New York. 9 Healthfully located in beautiful Garden ee ———— St. Paul s School f City, Long Island, 18 miles from New Ln a yo F 7 = gee equipped. tgp neg swimming pool, fine athletic fields. repares for any college or scientific M4 od school. Competent master at the head of each department. A Lower M ad ame H el ene M a 1g 1 ] ] e School for Younger Boys. For information and Catalog address: WALTER R. MARSH, Headmaster, 158 Stewart Ave., Garden City, L. L Stalian Art of Singing The Hewlett School for Girls r “ : 79 k City ll Located in one of New York’s most exclusive and beautiful A Method Which Sets the Standard of Vocal Art ae Russe Sage College of a. anes intermediate, aoe ge Preparatory, Gen- - eral and advan ASS Art, D tic S 7 YP . ; ratory Practical Arts All sports. "For Catalogue address Lonc wn Endorsed by Victor Herbert, Caruso, Alfred G. Hertz Degrees Founded by Mrs. Russell Sage in connection with Dramatic Emma Willard School. r catalog, Designed for the vocational and_ professional Hindergarten Training School A thorough course of singing in the true uilding training of women. Secretarial Work, Household Affiliated with New York University. Two years’ course methods of the Italian School for the Economics and Industrial Arts. Special students accredited m New York State and City Boards of Educa- voice, where voice placing, diction, opera admitted. B. S. degree. Address Secretary, tion and N. | “? Seaeaie, Samra, t us i tied S lly t 7 ht by ‘ Miss Harriette Mewissa Mitts, Principal. oratorio and lieder are personally taught by * Russell Sage College of Practical Arts Troy, New York New York, N. Y. City, Washington Sq., N. Y. University. Helene Maigille. Exclusive, in that pupils astics i id three are received only upon recommendation. Medical >RETARY. Drew Seminary a Young Women. Beautifully located, AMERICAN PROGRESSIVE PIANO SCHOOL wW es from New York City. 600 feet elevatic is view q > . . of f Lake Gleneida and Fishkill Range. “General and shecial courses, ane tage = Method. Lessons cover fourteen a ee Studios 220 Madison Ave. New York Certificate privileges. Classes limited asiihetion: idely endorsed by eminent artists. GUST ? Moderately priced. Write for catalog. ROLERT', TREVORHOW, BECKER, Director, 114 West 72nd Street, and he —____. § ~D.D., President, Box 720, Carmel, NEW YORK. Hall. = a oe — neitiiiaiemaaaneniiiiiaae ITH the superb fitting- qualities for which Alex- The Baby e~) (| ander oxfords are noted, and OF0 0 (0) (2M | | skilful hand-workmanship throughout, this smart spring shoe will look well and keep its shape until discarded. Made of fine black gunmetal calfskin with light-weight soles; BECAUSE baby, in the Baby Cariole, can be left alone in perfect safety and comfort, indoors or outdoors, at play or at rest, to grow nature’s way. Because the roomy Baby Cariole allows no cramping of baby’s delicate limbs, no irritating stuffiness of the tight carriage, there is less fretting for mother to f d Il li id soothe. The temptation for injurious rockings and jouncings is removed. ourteen dollars, de ivered prepat to any Screened sides keep baby from bad tumbles, prevent all annoyances from _out- d . ° side, and, with a covering over the top. exclude flies and mosquitoes. If you a dress in America. want to keep your baby healthy, happy, safe and comfortable —day and night— indoors or out— ~, 8 summer or winter—you need the Baby Cariole. Spri ng Catalog on request. It is wonderfully easy to wheel the Baby Cariole from room to room, indoors and outdoors. It is made light but strong—easily and quickly set up without tools—collapses into neat package for travelling or storage. Remember the name—The Baby Cariole. Leading dealers everywhere have the Baby Cariole — If yours has not, let us know and we ~ will have you supplied conveniently. 3 ran At any rate write for our free aeete on the care 00 f of babies and on Toys that Teach. THE EMBOSSING COMPANY 2 P. St. Alb N.Y. ttanens: op ruyn any, Ty, dys that Teac signs Approved by Good e. cago -_ - ‘Bebe real Housekeeping aid } : ae Institute. —7 : Andrew Alexander 548 Fifth Avenue, New York Fiftieth Anniversary Year 21 Harpers Bazar, April, 1917

Page 28

SARE QQnas=—= —e_ wer MaaAE Qe... RAPHY Raa — ge: SAO aan SER baer —— e Woh yee like ao omgert’s pene og oy goenee, ion? Then send for “The Rug and Color Scheme.” It p Mn. you is full color a pe of pr wih I / I N | | N | | aS the Floor wt a rfla ROO M can be attractive and restful only if the rug is rest- ful, for the rug’s note of color is the dominating note. EN RUGS Klearflax Linen Rugs come in an artistic range of solid Li ies colors that makes it easy for you to get just the right effect. on the floor, and tells you how you may vary the schemes. It also explains clearly and simply how And Klearflax Linen Rugs are as useful as they are decorative, to plan any room. Write to our West Duluth office or ’s free, . 5 ‘ a for it—it’s free as durable as they are unique. ‘These thick, heavy, mothproof You can get Klearflax Linen Rugs in Taupe, Black, Blue, Greens, Grays, Browns and Rose, in these sizes and at these prices . . giao «FUSS, Woven from the strands of the flax plant into a staunch, ) x 60 : “ccc: aso. Sanitary floor covering now give to your bedrooms, your dining x 90 in 1.25 12 ’ ** e ° ‘ ° ° $3.00 per square yard in stock widths, any room, your halls and living rooms, a new charm and a distinct (Prices somewhat higher in the Far West and South) individuality that will last for years Klearflax Linen Rug Co. , ate Come ‘ See Offices All dealers selling representative assortments of rugs and car- Ss Wiinnes . , 4 olga = pets will be glad to show you Klearflax Linen Rugs. New York Office, 212 Fifth Avenue Fiftieth Anni Harper's Bazar, Af

Page 29

} A Betty Wales Ploshkin A i | / / \ Belly: bai les. / 4 Kept always in sight A. ee 4 Will keep your purse pe Gan » Gr lio henty poem ada on | And make your heart A Betty Wales Ploshkin Kept always in sight Brings luck and good fortune Makes everything right. light. For the Class of 1917 School days nearly over! But no tiresome fittings to interfere with the last few precious weeks. No need to worry whether the gown of gowns will be finished on time or will come up to expectations or not. No sweeter, more charming, more individual styles could be designed than the numerous a- dorable “Betty Wales’’ crea- tions that are all ready-to-wear, even tothe dainty Kleinert Gem Dress Shields under the arms. ¢ Dre/sses TRADE MARK REG. The Betty Wales label, with its “lucky Ploshkin,” assures you absolute satisfac- tion with styles, materials, workmanship. A Betty Wales Graduation Gown, whatever model you choose, will prove a delight. One dealer in your 22S 2 town handles Betty Wales Dresses. SSE SS If you don’t know just what to do after commencement, Don’t accept any dress for a by all means read “Betty Wales, Business Woman,” the “Betty Wales” unless it con- S a tains this label. inspiring story of a young college graduate. A 50c book for only 15c in stamps or coin. Send today! - BETTY WALES DRESSMAKERS ‘ 9 oe Sr a 103 Waldorf Building ° - New York ws TRADE MARK REC. In Association with Goldman Costume Company e 4 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

Page 30

a

4 3 a

. *% -~*

he Nurge’s Gift to

‘ JSoilet Sable Art

- Always milady’s delicate skin has loved the gracious toilet arts—but always has she thought: “What if this should not be pure?” Today milady need not fear for her pretty skin. From every packet of dainty San-Tox blue the smiling San-Tox Nurse bespeaks a toilet purity that marks a new and actual advance in modern toilet art.

With what confidence can Madame delight her skin with the cool, refreshing caressment of San-Tox Velvet Lotion! Or with the fragrant, impalpable fineness of San-Tox Enchantment Complexion Powder! Is it strange that San-Tox druggists should offer to return your money—as they do—on any San-Tox preparational purity? Is it strange that you will continue to patronize such types of druggists, who stand for what is best in drug-store service and purest preparations?

And there are 125 San-Tox prepara- tions equally pure!

SAN-TOX FOR PURITY De Pree Chicago

_4 \ Twoof thecharming San-Tox toilet dain- _ ties—with a purity so delighting to

* a ee

_ Ve oe onl ion “ = os

- a a =o c : er c » ExcnANrmenr J

COMPLEXION a

Fiftie wh lo versary Year Har 5 ipr 7 24

Page 31

ww < eone

) Sener ET MET Cena

we A A ee

“he Most Boauti _ Cay mn America. telephone and he will gladly arrange to give you, and the other members of your family, a most interesting demonstration. HE woman of refinement demands more than mere utility in her motor car. She insists that it shall express her own personality and be in keeping with the comfort and luxury of her home. For this reason the Paige has long enjoyed the favor of dainty American womanhood. It is, indeed, the Mothers, Wives and Sisters of Paige owners who are responsible for that descriptive phrase—“The Most Beau- tiful Car in America.” Won’t you make a special point, please, to drop in at the nearest Paige Agency and inspect the exquisite new models? Or better still, merely call our dealer on the

Stratford “Six-51” 7-passenger _ $1495 f. o. b. Detroit Fairfield “Six-46” 7-passenger -— $1375 f. o. b. Detroit Linwood “Six-39” 5-passenger $1175 f. o. b. Detroit Dartmoor “Six-39” 2 or 3-passenger — $1175 f. o. b. Detroit Brooklands “Six-51” 4-passenger — $1695 f. o. b. Detroit A Complete Line of Enclosed Cars.

Paige-Detroit MotorCarCompany, Detroit, Mich.

Se pa tee Oi et ee

Fiftieth Anniversary Year I arper's Bazar, April, 1917

Page 32

(ndurance is simply sustained power. The ability to sustain power does not depend upon mere size or weight. It springs from an even distribution of weight—a perfect co-ordination of parts. Scripps Looth endurance is the product of concentrated strength, plus light- ness, plus co-ordination, plus control. It is the highly special- ized, synchronized strength of Science. Excess weight in a motor car is an effort to secure ease by weighting the car down on the road. Scripps-Booth attains ease by a perfect and scientific balance. Scripps-Booth lightness is actually converted into luxury. Every ounce of Scripps-Booth energy counts every minute it is on the road. It is not wasted in overcoming the inertia of dead weight. Scripps-Booth is like a perfectly muscled athlete — its lightness con- } serves energy. It always has energy to spare. Scripps-Looth (orporation Der out, Nich “ Four-Cylinder Roadster - - % 98 Four-Cyvlinder Coupe - - - L5 28 57 Fight-Cylinder Four-Passenger Fight-Cylinder Town Car - - a ee Four-Cylinder Roadster Harper s Basar, A ri 1917 26

Page 33

CS in S. a

andirons & grates HEARTH FURNITURE. Make your Fire- place the center of hospitality. Booklet. Home and the Fireplace—Gratis. Write Colonial Fire- place Company, 4603 W. 12th St., Chicago. MANTELPIECES. marble mantel pieces, ers, fire tools, Arthur Todhunter,

Antique English wood & andirons, hob grates, fend-

101 Park Ave.,

ERE is a group of distinguished sm find for yourself, and so valuable a During poy month ar will be abl sugvestions her To se > prompt att Rates:

One vear, $48 3 (4

WE prepay freight; 1000 hearth articles; qual-

ity, beauty, ¢ orrec tne a economy; satis. guar. Cata., sugg s, advice, ideas free. Sunde: rland Bros Estab. 1883) 333 2 So. 17th, Omaha, Neb.

beauty culture iter you have found them- cordially recommended to the readers of Harper's Bazar. | the advertise ment in the ‘April Number of Harper's Bazar.

all shops, the kind that are so hard to all of them e to find a host of unusual midwinter ention ss ay in your letter that you saw

Four months, $18

beauty culture (Continued) COCOA FROST tightens flabby skin & keeps

wrinkles from forming, or money refunded’ One jar convinces you. Price $1.06 Parisian Specialist, 1358 Bro. Room 1, N. ¥

blouses

beauty culture (Continued)

A CAREFUL SELECTION of individual styles in beautiful blouses and dancing frocks at all prices are offered at Maison Adele, 71 West 45th St., New York.

antiques A SHOP WHERE | REAL. : Sew ter, E Reproduc tions.

untiques are Furniture, re nina, Absolutely No I BUY AS WELL AS SELL. Good prices paid for Early American. Weil, 126 East 57th St., N. Y.

Henry V. REDUCED PRICES—WINTER SEASON. Rare antiques, tine reproductions, bronzes, paint- ings, objects d'art, oriental rugs. ‘Treat for art lovers. Washington Art Gallery, 51 W.39St.,N.Y.

ANTI UES, world’s ls largest whole: aale—_setal shop. French, Engli alian,Chinese, jewels, paintings, lac 3 . ‘ arvings porcelains,rare hangings.C. iller,249 Sth AV. BIRN’S ANTIQUE SHOP, 101 W. 37th St. A examples of real antiques together very good copies, hand-made of old Repairs of all kinds. few choice with some Woods, at our shop. ANTIQUES FIRE ARMS ‘At the Sign of the Sun Dial.” Stephen Van satsa aer. 805 Madison Ave., New York City.

CHOICE Antiques: furniture, rare china, Ben- nington, colored & Stiegel glass, She ie pls pn Prism lamps, etc. Send for list. Mrs. Page 76 Atwater Ter., Springfield, oly GUSTAVE SARGENT has collectors’ pieces of Lowestoft china, early American glass, hooked- work rugs and ott antiques, 351 Park Ave., near 52d. Phone Plaza

arts & crafts HAND-WOVEN HOMESPUNS, made on old- fashioned Scotch looms. Beautiful new colors & weaves. Send for samples. Biltmore Estate Industries, 8 Plaza, Biltmore, N. C. AUSTRIAN ART NOVELTY CO., makers of unusual lamps and candle shades, a rt pillows, Goid and silk 7. ©,

and other exceptional gifts. flowers. 19 West 30th Street, UNIQUE, OUT-OF-THE-COMMONPLACE gift wares in metal and leather. Hand wrought Pictorial catalogue free. Art Work Shop, 449 Ellicott Street, Buffalo, N. ¥. R. DUDENSING & SON 45 W. 44th St., N.Y.C. Foreign & American Paintings. Largest aaieaien of original Water Colors in America, suitable Gifts for all occa'ns. SPECIAL EXHIBITION of Garden Pastels by Lizabeth Hunter. Catalogue on request The Little Gallery, 15 East 40th. St., ‘DOVE & DISTAFF’?’ HOMESPUNS heavy & medium weight materials, spun and woven by hand. White, brown, & mixtures, $2 per yd. Write for samples to Dove & Distaff, Peace Dale, R. I

B.C.

art embroidery CROSS-STITCH PATTERNS. Quaint, ar- tistic set of 4 plates $100. Special prices to shops. Individual designs, monograms and kalograms to order. Edith Allen Hall Studio, Stamford, Ct. HENRY HESSE, 399 Sixth Ave., 24-25 St., Specialty house. T apestr es, Crewels aaa Gobeline Wools, Decorative Art Linens, Yarns, D. M. C. Cottons, Worsted Knit Goods. BEADS, X STITCH MAT. Canvas Tap., Wool, Silk, Gold and Linen Threads. Everything that cannot be had elsewhere. Se nd stamps for oer Peter Bender, Imp., 111 E. 9th St., N. Y¥. C.

FERROL’S MAGIC FACE PASTE. effaces wrinkles, ‘‘crowsfeet,’’ builds muscles. Bleaches skin & leaves it A a soft & colorful. $1 jar. Ferrol System, 200 W. 72d St., N. Y.

With Prevents & heals chapped lips invaluable to motorists; price $1. 420 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. CHER-ROSE, perfect waterproof lip tint & without color. immediately; A.J. MacHale,

MONA BONA Peach Bloom Rouge: a wonder- ful liquid rouge especially adapted for bathing. dancing or any exercise; will not rub or wash off. $1 bot. Bklet. Otelia W esle y, 507-5th Ave.,N.Y.

GRAY HAIR TONIC that will not dye hair or skin but restores gray hair to its natural color. Price $1.00. A. J. MacHale, 420 Boylston St. Boston, Mass. BLOUSES of distinctive design; machine or hand-made. Exquisite ae lingerie, and hosiery. Send for booklet. H. Jessie A. Burke, 366 5th Avenue, New York. IMPORTED Paris handmade blouses in voile, linen, net & Swiss muslin trimmed with filet & Pt. de Venice laces: $9 to $25; on approv. Heath & Mills, 1211 Union Street, Schenectady, N.Y.

SPRING IN THE SHOPS

Kneeling pad _ of waterproofed gardeness, With hand painte $5. IIE shops are now decked out in their Spring finery; and as you read these delightful pages you will find a thousand and one useful new things for your home, your family, your motor, your gar- den, and yourself. t ‘Chin Foo ”— se good luck « In antique gold, white pottery, $2. Detachable mor for the motor; design. In sterl L the pair.

In celluloid, material for the gardener or 1 trowel and rake to match, Here, and on pages 29 and 31, we have pictured a few ran- dom _ suggestions. To purchase any of them, simply send cheque and instruc- tions to Miss Jane Jarvis, Ba Service, 40th York. Harper’s zar Shopping 119 West St, New for centuries log of China. or blue and <y logram_ plates any color and ing silver, $10

IMPORTED handmade F tore nee linens in Car- reggi, Sicilian, Barotta & cutwork. Ital- jan filet & Pt. de Venice A...

Schenect: ady, N.Y

SPIRO’S Eyebrow & FE yelash c olou expression. Darkens, las 2 4 affected by washi ment 50c. 26 W. nparts Un-

z or ¢ saan ” Box $1. reat- 38th & 132 W. { es 23rd St., N. Y

WE NOW CARRY a full line of blouses made from Georgette, Crepe de chine, lace & net, handkerchief linen. All hand made, $5 & up. tthel S. Conkling, 336-5th Av., R. 707, N.Y. C HAND-MADE ORIGINAL tub-frocks, sport frocks, lingerie dresses and blouses imported and made-to-order. The Misses’ Larsen, 50 We West _. 56th Street Phone 1985 Circle, books Arthur Engler,

BOOK PLATES 150 Nassau

Street, New York City. Engraved book plates Heraldry, Wedding Invitations. Cards, Social Sta- tionery

candies LORD’S DOLLAR CHOCOLATES in 1, 2,

3 and 5 pound boxes delivered postpaid any- where in the United State $1.00 per Ib. Ps Lord & Son, 454 Congress St., Portland, Me.

FAMOUS MONTE FUDGE, delicious center of ric = c re am, sugar & chocolate, ¢ ary olate cov- ered; ¢ 5 lbs.; 90¢e, $1.75, $2.56 )& $4 ppd. idcate Candy Shop, Menominie, Wis. QUALITY & PREMIERE CHOCOLATES contain so much real value that each piece is an advertisement in itself. To be had only at the better stores at 65c., 85c. and $1.00 PER POUND. If your dealer does not carry them we would be pleased to supply dried direct by parcel post. H. D. Foss & Co., Bostor v. Y. Office, 41 1 nion Square.

diveieiie DR. ARLINE N. C. THORP, Chiropodist; 503 5th Ave., .Y.C.; entr. 42d St. Business hours by appointment Residence 9-11 A.M. Office 11 A.M.-5 P.M. Phone 2844 Murray Hill,

Foot Tonic to use afte r the dance, Foot Ointment, 50c. Toilet Powde 500 Fifth Ave., N

DR. E. N. COGSWELL, Surgeon C hiropodist. $1 Cc expert manicuring,

cigarettes SEPTEMBER MORN Cigarettes, for quality, aroma & fragré 00. Monogrammed Ci 90 Nass

unexcelled Ce Price $2.00 per arettes our ape cialty. au St. ¥.

Pupulidy Bros., WILL NOT STAIN your fingers: “Club Blendettes’’—mildest Turkish tobacco obtain- able. Not perfumed; hz ee a ude to order only. Gibson-Haddon Co., 1328 "we y»N Y. yept. _B.

cleaning & dyeing

KNICKERBOCKER CLEANING AND Dyeing Co., high class cleaners and dyers; gowns cleaned and returned in 24 hours. Main office 402 E. 31st St. Branches in book. ‘phone

corsets

MME. JULIAN’S Face Preparations have stood the test for 40 years without harmful results. 16 W. 47th St., 2 Y Phone Bryant 4427. GOSSARD FRONT LACED CORSETS, fitted by expe rie ene ed corsetie oe s. Over fifty dif- ferent models $ yup. Olm “ad Corset Co 179 Madison ao + at 34th ‘Street, _ we

«& Mills, 1211 Union Street, LEPROUX, 77 W. 46th St., N.Y.; late with hatter Vigouroux. Des ning, stamping, em- initials, hemstitching. Out of town orders. broiderers of monograr Buttons covered; pinking

FLORENCE A. WOODLEY —European facial treatment for relaxed muscles, coarse pores deep lines. Treatment. $2. zma Wranke Cream, $2. 507-5th Ave. Tel. Vand. 2340.

BUCK’S SKIN FOOD prevents scraggy neck yreserves the skin in its natural beauty. Pro- ducing soft, velvety skin on face, neck & shoul- ders. $2.00 per jar prepaid.

MME. BINNER Corsetiere, is cultivating figures with her famous corsets. Internationally famous for thirty years. 561 Fifth Avenue, New York

auction bridge MARY GREY EYE LASH GROWER is harmless; nourishes eyelashes, makinglong, silky. Cultivates marvelously; longused; rec omnis nded; cannotbe imitated. $1.00. Mary Grey ».46th St.

BUCK’S SKIN BLEACH restores discolored skin of face, neck & shoulders to white velvety condition; .50 bot. ppd. Send immediately for bkt. A. Buck’s Studio Arcade, Bronxville, N. Y.

BERTHE MAY’S MATERNITY CORSET. Special for purpose. Dress as usual. Uninter- rupted comfort. Mali orders. Write for book- let 19, or call at 10 East 46th Street, New York.

RAD- BRIDGE PLAYING CARDS. 4 designs. 4 colors each, 25c. ($2.75 doz.) at dealers or ppd. Sample cards & Score Pads on request. Dept. H Radbridge Co., Inc., 144 Pearl St., N. Y.

DELILAH Liquid Foot Balm used every night will relieve & sooth all inflammation & keep the feet in good condition. Thoroughly antiseptic. Trial bot. 50c. Delilah Co.,419 W. 119th St.,N.Y. FOR 20 YEARS I have been receiving the praise of fastidious women who are delighted with Sunshyne Face Creams. Send me your ad- dress. Cora Minerva Low, West Milton, Ohio. MME. ROSE LILLI, Corsetiere Originator of the only Rose Lilli Corset for 25 years the premier custom-made corset 15 West 45th St., New York. Tel. 2818 Bry ant.

automobiles IMPERATRIX FACE POWDER, 3 tints,stays on, removes shine; 75c Se ample 10c; sent prepaid on receipt of ae ney ref. if not satisfied. Imperatrix Co., 54-56 Stone St., N.Y.

LYFORD’S HAIR INVIGORATOR makes fluffy, lustrous, beautiful hair, removes dandruff and brightens the color—notadye. A. G. Lyford, 128 Tremont St., Boston, Mass.

AUTOMOBILE INSURANCE EXPERT Lowest rates. Best companies. Individual atten- tion. Write for rates and particuls urs. A. F. Mor- rill, 56 Maiden Lane, N. Y. 7 1849 John. MONOGRAMS —Coat-of-arms in Sterling Sil-

ver & Enamel may be transferred from one car to another. Also hand-painted detachable mono- grams. Eric Langlands, 244 W.49 St. Bry. 6353.

CARMELITA SKIN FOOD restores youthful complexion, removes wrinkles, builds tissues, beautifies skin. Will not grow hair. Jars $1 and 50c. The Carmelita Co., 259-5th Ave., N. Y. BARLATTAR Eyebrow Grower darkens and grows eyebrows & lashes; espec. good for in- flamed eyelids; endorsed by nye sicians. Price $1 A. G. Lyford, 128 Tremont St., Boston, Mass. MME. GARDNER, Mer. LEPAPPION Cor- set Co. After years of scient. designing our mod- els are unive imitted to be of super. style & workmanship. 45 W. 55th St., N. Y. Col. 866.

VIAU’S FRENCH CORSETS-Corsets for slen- der figures with undeveloped bust. Also reduc- ing. Special corset for deformed figures. Book- let. Viau Corset, 39 W. 34th St., 9th floor, N. Y.

CHAPPED: and sunburned skin “Magic Violet Cream” and “ ‘Mag ec Lotion” $1 each per bottle. ‘‘Beauty Shop”, 5833 Von V feteon Ave., St. Louis, Mo. “prere nted by

27 service in the care and and hair. Let me Culture Shop, fork. EXPERT SKILLED perfection of your fac advise you. Loral Beauty 200 West 72nd Street, New

Or just wearing @ 500 Fifth 166 West ARE YOU well Corseted? corset? If not try Katherine D'Arcy, Ave. (cor. 42d St.) or at new branch, 48th SU.yN. Y. ¢ Phone Bryant 2524. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 ‘| % i }

Page 34

corsets (Continued) dressmaking flesh reduction furs (Continued)

PEETZ FRONT LACE CORSET ea | e_ on Art in Corseting.’ uty, ourneee- ew York City.

45 West 37th "Street. ROSO COMBINATION Beit C oree t—wonder- ful uplift for prolapse, hernia, ete. Laced front. Corset & combination belt, $15 up. Booklet. Roso Corset Shop, Opposite Ritz.

STYLE AND FIT GUARANTEED—1I will call at your home for fittings. Remodeling a specialty in the most expert manner. Miss Squires, 203 W. 87th St., N. Y. Seh. 7553. EXCESS OF FLESH rapidly removed by external use of ‘‘Arabian Vigortone”™ strength- ening, invigorating; $5 per bottle. Particulars on request. Vigortone Co., Coraopolis, Pa. WILLIAM ARNOLD, 18 W. 3ist St., N. Y.C. Furs ready to wear and made to order. Redye- ing, repairing, remodeling and _ cleaning, Arnold quality. Estab. 1885,

MISS A. I. SLATER,70 W. 38th St.,Specializes in mail orders, personal attention to each order assuring perfect satisfaction. Smart gowns for all occasions, FancyTailor Suits. Unusual remodeling. DR. GRAF, 411 West End Av.,N.Y. Scientific flesh reduction without diet, drugs or exercise by electricity only. Will improve figure—marvelous results. Bergonie System. Call Schuyler 8409. SAUER & SCHAEFER, FURRIERS. Furs to order, repaired and remodeled for particular persons wanting excellent po lgnmeneeg 4 West 37th Street. Tel. Greeley 2746.

WE guarantee our statement by giving what we guarantee (a perfect fit). Ready-to-wear corsets, our own models, $5 up Roso Corset Shop, 14 E. 46th St., N. Y. Opposite Ritz-Carlton. SMART GOWNS AND SUITS “ Made to Order. earners remodeling. Mme. Zara. 625 Lexington Ave., N. Y. SCIENTIFIC Fiesh Reduction; thermo electric medium; Reemane nt results; Swedish gymnas- tics & massage. No diet; rheumatism benefited. Miss Frye, 233 Ww. 107 St. Tel. Academy 1106. I SOLICIT high class fur work in remodeling & repairing. I can make your past season's furs look just as if they were made this winter. J.P. Davis, 20 W. 31st St.. N. Y. Tel. 4368 Mad. Sq.

ATHENIA CORSETS Sold only at Chandler's Corset Store, 50 Temple Place, Boston, Mass. MRS. SHORTER makes a specialty of Terlu gowns at reasonable price Also other forms of dressmaking and remodeling. 1730 B’ way, N.Y. Phone 2131 Circle

MISS BROWNELL, Reg. Nurse, Corsets or beits. Redfern my special, recommended by the best physicians & nurses. 58 mail service. H. Methot, 29 W. 34th St S. We BUY FURS NOW— Direct from m'f’grs. with fullest guarantee. Largest manufacturer buy- ing skins direct from trappers. Write for discount list & cata. Herman Reel Co., Milwaukee, Wis. DO YOU WISH TO BE WELL DRESSED? without trouble to yourself? We do dressmaking by mail. Information cheerfully given Hannah Gilkes, 101 W. llth St., N. Y. C.

PAGET’S FRENCH FEATHER SHOP, 144 Tremont St., Boston New Plumes, Boas & Novelties from your old feathers at saving of half. Paradise cleaned and remod. Mail orders. THE LONG FELT WANT May beffilled, perhaps by consulting this page the thing you require is not mentioned here, write the Bazar.

A. H. GREEN & SON, Makers & repairers of fine furs Many choice sets may be seen in our show rooms All work — by experts. 37 W. 37th St., N.Y¥.C. Phone: Greeley 3058 MAISON EMILE, a recognized designer among the trade, has opened a specialty shop at 12 36th St.,.N.Y.C. A comprehensiv e assortment a gowns & blouses ready to wear & made to order.

FURS, OF THE QUALITY “SORT; few less expensive, but none finer Also repairing, remodeling and storage Wm. C. Emerick Co., 34 W. 46th St., N. Y.

MADELINE KRAEMER, 154 East 95th St. Tel. 2430 Lenox. Formerly dressmaker for leading Paris house. Gowns, Waists and Neg- ligees a specialty. Send measurement blank.

Page 35

ong gowns & waists (Continued) hair goods (Continued) hotels | house of specialties MRS. S. B. CLARKE—182 Mad. Ave., N. Y. Exceptional gowns & blouses, at to orde ré& a for immediate delivery. Phone M. H. 4 FRENCH HENNA D’OREAL, imported pow- der, tones scalp, restores gray or fade da a” to original color & beauty; harmless; $1. Sent orapplied. B. Paul, 38 W. 38th St., N. Y HOTEL MARTHA WASHINGTON, 29 East 29th St. oh women. Rooms $1.50 a day up- wards. Meals a la carte; also table d'hote. Luncheon 40¢. Dinner 50c. Booklet Free. KATHERINE CASEY, gowns for all occasions. Dancing & afternoon frocks. Your material used if desired. Remodeling also done. 36 E 35th St., N. Y., Tel. 1033 Murray Hill. K. MONDELLO—420 Boylston St., Boston, Tailored Suits, Coats, Wraps, Gowns and Blouses. Wedding Trousseau. Telephone Back Bay 8566. MLLE. ELVIRA A recognized designer in the trade. gowns for all occasions, made to order. own material used if desired. Smart Ladies’ Remodeling s specialty. Gowns fitted or made to measure at a reasonable rice; original models, copies from sketches or mport’t’s. Write for estimates. Suite 5, 1358 Bway. (cor.36 St.) N.Y.C. Tel.Greeley 4661. MAISON FRANCAISE— IMPORTER we models—gow aists. owns $25 up. Blouses $6 up 45 West 46th Street New York City. MME. MIXSTORF, 149 W. 57th; copies im- ported gowns of nt Parisian designers in your own or original materials. Photographs for inspection. Best workmanship. Reas. rates. ON THE OPPOSITE COLUMN are illustrations of a few things taken at random from these pages. You will find others, just as in- teresting, by reading carefully. YOUR GOWN—YOURSELF Artistic design, fit, execution makes them iden- tical. Clothes which express personality. Kath- ryn M. Browne, 366-5th Ave., N.Y., nr. 34 St. Linen URKI ae at 57th St., New stic gowns to orde Models for ge delivery. MADAME HAMAD—SMART GOWNS for all occasions. Made to order. Your materials optional. Remodeling. M xe orders solicited. Price reas. 72 W. 98 St.,N.Y.C.Tel. 1969 River. WE ARE EARLIEST WITH THE LATEST Prices to suit your pocketbook. Up to the minute gowns, waists, skirts, ete. The “Georgette Shop,"’ G. Fischer. 2654 B'way. 734 Fifth Pies City. "c ircle 5660. hair ENGLISH HENNA SHAMPOO powders tone the scalp, color faded or greyish hair, giv- ing a marvelous gloss and bright tints, $1. Henna Specialties Co., 505 5th Ave., N. Y. NO MATTER how gray, faded or dye-spoiled your hair may be, I'll restore it to any desired shade. a charge for private examination and opinion. Valligny, 14 East 44th St., New York. MME. FRIED’S HAIR SHOP. Transformations. Natural wavy special at ten. 15 West 34th Street, New York City LEON’S VEGETABLE HAIR DYE gives a most natural color. Absolutely harmless. Special- ty in allstylesoftransformation. Leon, 506 Park Ave., bet. 59 & 60th Sts.,N. Y. Tel. 6751 Plaza. PARKER’S method of hair treatment cleanses scalp of imperfections, promotes healthy hair; personal consultation. Write for book ‘‘H. B. “Healthy Hair.” 51W.37thSt.,N.Y. Greeley 202 SUSANNE KEENAN Method. Hair & scalp treatment; dandruff, oily conditions sci'tif’ally removed without nog Sat bara t $2. Men, women, Tues., Thurs.,Sat., 42 St. Vbilt 1084 ANTHONY BOCH, 129 South 13th., Phila., Featuring The excelling Transformation Norm- ale. Specialist in Hair Tinting (Oriental Herbs) The Nestle Permanent Wave, licensed operator. WALDEYER & BETTS, Scientific Scalp Treatment, stimulates cire ulation, promotes new growth of hair, relieves nervous ‘tension and will cure nervous headache. 315-5th Ave. ¥. LOCHNER’S PETROCRUDE, wonderful re- medy for falling hair, astonishing preventer of dandruff used universally treatment of sc =e. $1 bottle. Lochner’s, 47 W. 42d St., N. Y The Lucien PERMANENT Wave is a harmless process producing a flat&smooth undulation. The shampooing&treatment will greatly improve this undulation. Lucien,"507 5th Av.Tel. M.H. 9779. hair coloring JOHN L. IZAN, famous hair coloring specialist. Personal attention, privacy, perfect daylight. Hairdressing, manicuring,facial & scalp massage. 65 W. 46th St., bet. 5th & 6th Aves. Bry. 5255. J. ANDRE & SON, Hair Specialists, Sole m'f'rs of Oriental coloring to restore premature grey hair. $2 box. Send for Booklet. Application arlors & Salesrooms, 45 W. 39th St., N. Y. MORE SPRINGTIME SUGGESTIONS ERE is another group of Spring suggestions from the attractive shops on these pages. These new things are typical of the many other nov- elties you will find here. Read carefully from the first page to the last. To purchase anything we have illustrated here, or on pages 27 and 31, simply send your cheque and instructions to Miss Jane Jarvis, Harper’s Bazar Shopping Service, St., New York. 119 | West 40th Bunny Socks for the baby. Each foot is transformed into a wee rabbit. In white planet, with pink eyes and jingly bell, $ This attractive sandwich tray is of Italian straw, with hand embroidered doily of Italian linen. Tray and doily, $3.50. These wool homespuns, dyed and woven attractive for cushions and hangings, as stripes and colors, 36 and 40 inches wide, From a shop well known to Bazar read- ers comes the first practical and charm- ing waterproof golf cape. Light weight | and folds compactly. In rubberized satin, blue or red, $30. This smart waist of “crepe Georgette, with white collar and cuffs of same ma- terial, can be ordered in all the fash- ionable colors—$6. most many mountaineers, are by Kentucky Choice of well as sport skirts. $2.75 the yard. MANUEL Transformation, purest quality hair artistically dressed. Imp. Henna prep. for coloring hair. $2.50 per box. Appl. in our priv. booth. Manuel, 29 E. 48th St. M. H. 5737. URA HAIR NETS, cap and fringe nets, made of finest natural hair—sold in all quality stores. Laura “ier eee Co., 949 Broad- way, New York ¢ HOTEL MAJESTIC—Facing Central Park at West 72nd St. Accessible to all lines of traffic, away from noise of the all-night district. Cope- land Townsend, Mng. Dir. Rooms, $2 per day up. SUITS of unusual value in latest styles. Quality Material. GOWNS of exquisite design for all occasions. We invite inspection. BLOUSES attractive models in a variety of colors for differing tastes. LINGERIE of great appeal to the discriminating woman. our goods at PRICES Suits $19.50 up Dresses $15.00 up. Others accordingly. LICHTENSTEIN'S APPAREL SHOP 1562 Broadway, at 47th St. New York City Next to the Palace Theatre. infants’ goods HAND MADE baby garments by French needlework artists. Fine materials. Dainty, exquisite. Domestic prices. Inf. to 3 yrs. On ap- proval. Conway's, 1025 Soniat St., New Orleans. IDEAL SUITS FOR BOYS of 2 to 8 yrs. Sty- lish distinctive models, wi cre from factory. Guar. washable materials. Catalog on request. Ideal Suit Co., 275 h St., Philadelphia, Pa. interior decoration THe MacBRIDE ATELIER, 3 E. 52d St., The House of T hree Gables'’— Now a country house schemes with rooms in our “Sample Home” to illustrate. New Cre- tonnes, Chintzes and Odd Fabrics of Ame rics an Mfg. An unusual collection of quaint odd English and Painted Furniture, Rugs, Fixtures, etc. Italian, Electric EDITH M. ah rem oasy CoO., 11 E. Interior Decorators Murray Hill 1413 MRS. SERRELL Interior decorator Personal atmospheres. E tag he interiors. 4lst St., N.Y. Lamps Shades Studio, 122 Kk. 17th St., N. Y. Tel. Sty. 5487. ORIENTAL RUGS and artistic furnishings sold direct from wholesale at a saving to the client. Charles H. Koch, Connoisseur, Broker Office: 15 West 34th Street, New York NATHANIEL B. BEAM’S SONS, Estab 1840. Painting, dec., paper hanging, draperies, upholstering & contracting. Interior dec. a spe- cialty. 280 Mad. Av., cor. 40 St.; M. H. 1588. HELEN CRISS & LUCIA FULLER Interior Decorators House F ai ta Pea Avenue, N. Y. 743 Fifth Plaza 1648. saan MAILED FREE—The blue book of jewelry,dia- monds, silverware, ivory. 11,000 high-grade ar- ticles at wonderfully low prices. Write for free copy. Charles L.Trout Co.,170 B’way, N. Y. C. HIGHEST PRICES PAID for Ladies discarded 3 a Bh aw diamonds, silver, etc. Mail or phone calls attended to. Mrs. 8. C ohen, 629-6th Ave., 4676 Greeley HIGHEST PRICES paid in cash for diamonds, old jewelry and pawn tickets. La Velle Jewelry Shop, Ine. Rialto Theatre Bidg.. Times New York, and 15 West 42d S D MESH BAGS, re paired, resilverplated & relined in kid or silk, $1.25; made as good as new. Send parcel post Ane d. Simms & Johnson, 4 Bailey Street, Attleboro, Mass. Sa., jewelry heaiie S. WYLER pays highest prices for pearls, dia- monds & other precious stones, also platinum, gold & silver; (confidential). Est. 30 yrs. Bank refer. 6 E. 46th St., N.Y. Opp. Ritz-Carlton. KING BUYS AT HIGHEST cash _ prices: diamonds, pearls, jewelry, gold, silver, bronzes, antiques, rugs, pawn tickets. Confidential. 23 Sixth Ave. (near 4lst St.) N. Y. C. JACK’S CURIOSITY SHOP. Jewelry, silver antiques, paintings, furniture,etc.,bought. High- est cash value given. Lafayette & Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn. 1 block from Atlantic Ave. Sub. Sta. SEND US ANYTHING in gold, silver or plat- inum; returns made same day. If not satisfac- tory will send goods back ppd. Howard & Co., 12 John St., New York City. Estab. 40 years. SEND TO A. S. BORG by mail or express any diamonds, old gold, silver, platinum, antiques, pore tickets, artificial teeth. Cash at once. 46 West 23d Street, New York BAZAR READERS will find many suggestions here from the leading shops of New York. Write to the Bazar should you require special information as to purchases. PARTICULAR WOMEN Should consult The Laura Hair Novelty Company 949 Broadway, N. Y. C. Phone 1409 Gramercy. THE BILTMORE—New York City— pares and latest of American hotels, Located the center of New York's shopping and Theatrical activities, GUNS THAT SHOOT and Guns that Don't; War relics, antiques, jewelry, gold, platinum, diamonds, fishing outfits, mechanical inetru- ments. Trigger’s Shop, 813-6th Ave., N.Y. hair goods hats THE RITZ-CARLTON, New York. The hotel with an international reputation. Distinctive in every respect, under the same direction as the famous Ritz-Carlton group of hotels in Europe. knitting CLUZELLE BROS., fashionable hair goods. Hair dressing, hair dyeing, massaging, manicur- ing, facial and scalp treatment, feather weight transformation a specialty. 12- 14W -37thSt.N.Y. SPORT HATS FOR SOUTHERN WEAR Also large assortment of original designs for the coming season. 63 West 55th Street New York City HOTEL RICHMOND, 70 W. 46 St., N. Y. In midst of best shops, theatres & uptown business dist Running water or bath in every room. $1.50 per day up. E.B.Seaman, Pres., Bklet. H. Arms to You J'll Lend, and wind your wools & be your friend.’’ So says the cricket yarn winder, 74” high.& 22” up to tip. When collapsed can be packed in as ‘‘one thing more.”’ “MY Wooden ROBERT, permanent hair wave specialist. All work guaranteed. No kinks, but a beautiful wave, well nigh a marcel. This is my specialty. Robert, 500-5th Ave., Suite 506,cor. 42d St.,N.Y. ANASTASIA HATS; embroidery effect; made to order; 10 hats at 310; a hat at $15; 4 hats at $20. Stammbach Studios, 15 East 34th St., New York City. | 29 OLD CHELSEA—Suites and Single Rooms for the discriminating. Old-fashioned lunch- eons and dinners. 47 Fifth Avenue. Tel.: Stuyvesant 2691. Arms are self-adjusting to any size skein, with tension so pester’ that yarn is not pulled. This helpful Cricket Yarn Winder is only $1.75. Miss Lord's Craft Shop, 825 Peach St.,Erie, Pa. 4 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

Page 36

laces linens original water colors special gowns (Continued) DAF FOR COMING SEASON: special designs for | OLIVIA CROSS-STITCHED LINENS « de- R. DUDENSING & SON;—45 West 44th | MARCEAU Gowns 493 Broadway, near junc! bedroom sets of taffeta silks, nets & laces, linen signs. Something new in old-fash. pattern-work. C. The largest and most complete 43d St., N. . City, announce their Second Orde cretonnes; pillows,curtains, table clothséerunners. Hand quilted silk crib & bed puffs. Catalog. Settles ‘in Americ a, suitable for gifts for all Anniversary Baten Kav anced Styles in suits, cake Mrs. Wilson, Hotel Apthorp, 94th-B’way,N.Y.¢ Olivia, Suite 3A, 166 Brewster St., Bridgeport, Ct. occasions. coats, dresses and blouses. — THE DEVONSHIRE LACE SHOP, 60 Wash- | ‘ e PICTURE FRAMING, 30 years’ experience in | THIS IS AN EVENT which should not be — Squi ire So. Baby caps, se arts, bridal tone work; makes a specialty of framing works overlooked by any one, as it offers extraordinary many inexpensive articles suitable for ingerie of art. W. J. McLaughlin, 9 East 8th Street, | values. gifts, Old laces remod. by Marian Powys of Eng. New York City. 20 to 30 per cent. less than elsewhere. PAT E. ZALLIO, 561-5th Ave., Antique & modern DAINTY UNDERWEAR, Maids’ Aprons, Col- WILL A MODEL SIZE FIT YOU? hand laces, wedding gifts, bridge prizes, hdkfs., novel- lars & Cuffs; Table Linens; Bed Linens; Towels; “Bonford” Frocks of individuality direct from ishes ties, odd lamps, candelabra, samplers, fans, re- | Trousseaux; all moderately priced. Send for cata. patterns maker, saves you about one-half usual retail let A modlg., cles ean'g, men nding; g’t’'d coloring. McGibbon & Co. 3 W. atth &t.. N. Y¥. C. prices on TIN ‘ _ PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE for Ladies’ | DRESSES for Street, Afternoon and Evening tion b and Children’s garments after any picture wear. $15 to $35, actually worth double. Bon- Exce adales tal ors uggage or description; reasonable prices, perfect fit. ' ford. 3 West 42nd Street, upstairs. Opposite Spec Mail orders a specialty. Mrs. Weisz, 41 W. 35th. library. New York. FOR SCHOTZ & CO. Tailored Suits—Afternoon | “LIKLY”’ 5 year guaranteed Luggage. Ward- MARY L. SANDERS, 149 Tremont St., Bos- de B and Evenf!ng Gowns. Direct Paris Importations. robe, dress, steamer trunks. Traveling bags ton. Maternity Gowns, Infants’ Wear, Matern- roug Special facilities for out of town orders. and suit cases Bazar du Voyage, 309 Fifth pear S ity Corsets & Brassieres, described & illust. in at- com} 471 Fifth Avenue, New York. Avenue, at 32nd Street, N. Y. |Catalogue. tractive bklet. Send for it now & save money, ELI y SCHWARTZ BROS, 429-5th Av. Fish class . P = ROG OW PEARLS need no introduction. Spe- . ree tailors, makers of authentic copies of importec cia Sleopatra necklaces—blac or natural— k bry & original models embodying materials & work- maids unifort ns $15.00. Money refunded if not_satisfactory. SMmoc Ing patterns 75¢ Ji manship of the highest excellence at $60 up. D. G. Rogow, 215 Fourth Ave., N. Y. C. JOH M. Kossofft GREAN Kortz. | NURSES’ OUTEITTING ASS’N— SMOCKING PATTERNS; 4 ste designs for blac| High Class Dressmaking & Tailoring 25 Fifth Ave., fine materials or for linens, etc., or 3 dif. designs pore: Mail orders filled with care. at 38th Street, New ork. per ul I 1e for round yokes & cuffs; sent for be Illus. cir., $1. 3 26 East 33rd St., New York. Uniforms for Maids and We 2c. Helena Buehler, 210 8. 13th , Phila., Pa. wo! J. TUZZOLI, 15 45th St., will make you a | Dresses ready made Coats | PARFUM EGYPTIAN BOUQUET an odour ‘ as suit for $55 whic wa not be “duplicated under Aprons and to order Cuffs of wondrous charm and refinement. Sample ] hor in ve $90. Sualisy materials faultless in make and Bonnets Caps Extract and Face Powder by mail, 20 cents. specla ty S Ops $1 be fit. Fur garments made and remodeled. Collars Bibs Tanty, Parfumeur, 140 W. 34th St., ‘New York. GRE OSCAR STEIN, 138 W. 97th St., N.Y.C. NURSES’ OUTFITTING ASS’N Trade L de V Mark THE COMMISSION SHOP, 366 Madison hand Suits of exclusive ‘style made to order for $50.00 ifth Avenue, A pure, fragrant cologne, pee from an Ave., N.Y. Sport Skirts, Smart Hats, new style for f up. Workmanship and material of the finest “a 38th Street, old French receipt, by F. B. Lackland, 10 E. Smocks & Blouses. A great variety of Children’s eithe quality. Telephone Riverside 2652. New York. | 43rd Street, N. Y. C. hy bottle, $2.50. Clothes in New Models. Garden Aprons. WIL CONSTANT \QUELLER— Es specially recom- Re WILKINSON HAND-MADE ART QUILTS er} mendec or his correct fitti Tailored gar- 3eautiful practical gifts for every occasion. ar: ments. Refined styles and fair prices. millinery photography Made only to order. Illus. cat. H in colors sent shad 17 East 48th Street, New York City. on request. Wilkinson Quilt Co., Ligonier, Ind. LAD FEVER & FRIEDMAN, 645 Lexington Ave., ONE HAT AT WHOLESALE PRICE NOWHERE IN BOSTON can you buy any- | ARTISTIC WORK IN BRASS OR BRONZE Neck High class ladies’ tailors, makers of au- Step off the subway at Bleecker Street. thing that will please your friends so much as your Made to me your individual needs and id , cat ; cause copies of imported & orig. models. Ma- Walk one block west to Broadway and you photograph. Correct style, pose, finish,at reas. Our booklet *‘A” outlines our work and service, Me( terial & workm’'ship of highest quality. Prices re. will find prices.J.E.Purdy & Co.,145 Tremont St., Boston Hunt Metal Specialties Co.,114 E.28 St., N. Y. CRE H. FRIEDMAN SPINGARN’S—THE FAMOUS WHOLE- | , , SHEFFIELD PLATE—Sterling Silver. New J) iit Vell-known Ladies’ Tailor sale milliner. To introduce you to his large examples from best makers. Charming bridge — sults delivered at short notice. assortment of advanced fall models, Mr. Spin- pro ess1lonal services prizes, $1 up. Wedding gifts; replating. Jean East 523 N. Howard St., Baltimore, Md. garn offers this at 636, 638 Broadway, N. Y. Nearing & Marian Wilkinson, 542-5th Av. N.Y. =" A. SACKS, BALTIMORE’S exclusive ladies’ LANG, MILLINER. Tho showing the newest EUGENE CHRISTIAN, F. S. D. Tr TEN slightly used Camel's Hair Shawls; Paisley, tailor. Individuality in Tailored Suits, Gowns, French Models, we specialize in remodeling, stomach & intestinal troubles by teaching Sou Brochet & fifteen thread lace shawls. One white, Wraps, Habits. Ideas executed. N. Chs arles using your own material 1: . 36th St., N. Y. to select & combine your food at meals. No de- rose point lace shawl. To be sold at sacrifice. St., Baltimore. Phone 2933-V Mt. Vernon. Just off 5th Ave. privation or dieting. No charge for consultation. M. Naftal, 69 W. 45th Street, New York City. MRS FABRICANT MME. KOPP. We take pleasure in announcing EUGENE CHRISTIAN, F. S. D., 213 W. 79th KATHERINE THOMPSEN announces an ual 8 Importer Ladies’ Tailor our spring opening. The modes on display are | St w York; subway to om. Past. unusually attractive ssortment of French — silored Suits—Riding Habits all the newest Parisian creations produced in our Ofiice ‘hours: 10 to 12 A.M. novelties, blouses, hats, and perfumery. given 45 West ‘46th Street, New York. own workrooms at mod prices. 58 E. 34, N. Y. Phone 8947 Se Basler. 29 East 54th’ Street. THE M. SCHOTZ, of 142 W. 57th St., calls your EUGENE CHRISTIAN, F. S. D. Treats | MISS STEVENSON offers distinctive and ae attention to his high-grade tailoring. Suits ° stomach & intestinal troubles by teaching you attractive country house bureau covers at = zB $40 up, skirts $12 up; to order. Also remodel- mi1sce aneous to select & combine your food at meals. No de- | $6.00—in her shop: the B ing. Phone 1265 Circle. privation or die eting. No charge for consultation. 18 East 46th Street. — H. HURWITZ—49 W. 45th Se. N.Y. Formerly | SEND ME YOUR BOOK WANTS—First Sa sue SYEATER SHOP - _ A. So. 17th St., with Stein & Blaine. Creator of Ladies’ suits & editions, manuscripts, extra illus. or association lila Slip-on, hanc nittec oo a special- wraps. Only finest fabrics used. My reference | items searched and reported on. Out-of-print Tl Ing acaqaen ly ty. Mail orders filled promptly. Good Shepherd you will re-order. Prices moderate. Bry. 9725. books a specialty. Downing, Box 1336, Boston. Wools for sale. | E lle on J d. - Franklin, 2nd floor ASI PHILIP FRIEDMAN of 111 West 48th St., | PRESS CLIPPINGS on any subject collected | INSTRUCTION given in ring or Park all hours hat calls your attention to his Tailored Suits, and compiled into handsome scrapbooks, by the —habits furnished; absolute privacy if desired. Cire Dresses and Coats. To satisfy your individual experienced ROMEIKE Excel. well equipped horses; ponies to weight; sport goo S taste. 106-110 Seventh Ave. Tel. Chelsea 8860. carriers to hire. O. Hauter, 15 East 58th St. K’s | SMART, SNAPPY, STYLISH— Puen PUBLIC Stenographic Office, 110 W. 40th St., | Visit the Sports Shop. Unusual & pre-ad- — or made along conservative lines. Quality Room 407. Correspondence, envelope address- vanced sports suits, sports waistcoats, coats, eC and workmanship irreproachable. Prices: | ing; Press Work, Plays, Parts, Specifications. scu pture essons skirts, blouses, ete., exclusiveness & utmost val- K.Gil $45 and up. Tel. connection. Ida M. Stephany; 7540 Col. ue. Suite 606, 6th floor, 500-5th Av. (42 st.) N.Y. A Mi J. KENNER, Ladies’ Tailor, announces his | GRAPHOLOGY, Character Readings from | MR. BILOTTI will take a few pupils for | WATCHHILL, R.I. 440 PARK AVE.,N.Y.C. - an spring styles_of imported models and own | handwriting. Send $1.00 and specimen of | sculpture at his studio, 9 McDougal Alley, | Margaret Lee, late with L. P. Hollander & Co. 82M creations; $45 and up Out-of-town orders. rapier a on plain paper. Alicia, Box 245, (near Washington Square) Golf & Tennis waists, $5.00. Morning dresses 385 Madison Ave., opp. Ritz-Carlton. Greenwich, Conn. New York City. for southern wear, $12 to $25. RAR RENE SCHNEIDER offers ladies’ tailored suits | RECIPE Card Cabinet; printed up-to-date Kentucky Wool Homespuns in varied striped holt of latest designs and fabrics. Prices $25.00 and recipes, guides, blank cards, oak cabinet. Ex- effects; entirely novel & unusual; for Spring golf bebe t up. 151 Wesv 46th Street, N. Y. C. Phone | ceptional value, $1 ppd; send for circular. Index snoes & sport uses. Sole agent: Virginia Demarest, — 7266 Bryant. Systems Co., Office: 346 Broadway, N. Y. C. Windmill Studio Shop, 44 W. 56th St., N Y.C. L. DAVIS, Ladies’ Tailor & Furrier ae B 9s SHOECRAFT SHOP, 27 W. 38th St., N.Y. 4 A critical service for critical people lewest Smart Shoes in widths. AAAA, AAA, AA & A, style suggestions for discriminating ladies. Montclair & Orange in sizes 8, 89, 9 & 915. Send for bookle stationery $45 and up. 939 Madison Ave., New York. “Fitting the Narrow Foot,” and Catalog H. Ss. aie , s. ROSENBLUM —_ | The CROSSWAYS TEA ROOM and Crafts - a - WEDDING STATIONERY SAMPLES - mporter Jadies’ Tailor Shop. Our craft shop contains unique gifts, an- and ‘‘Wedding Suggestions,"’ an interesting an ' Suits and coats made-to-order. tijues & bridge prizes. Drawing room tea ser- S oOppIng commissions authoritative booklet, sent on request. The L. W 53 West 46th Street, New York. vice. 190 Centre St.,Orange,N. J. Tel. 546-R, Crowell Co., 109 Orleans St., Springfield, Mass. ALL J. FEIRBERG—TAILOR _ ; WHEN MOTORING thru the Oranges, stop at | MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopping. | EASTER & V alentine cards for hand coloring, hey 55 W. 45th Street, New York City. Ye Auld Blue Tea Room for the most tempting Will shop with you or send anything on ap- dainty & refined; 200 new subjects; send for our Pace Smart Spring Suits. luncheons & dainties. You will be surprised & roval. Services free. Send for bulletin of catalog, ‘Pleasant Pages ‘tree on req. Little Tailor-Made Dresses. | pleased. 20 Harrison St.,k.Orange. Orange 3037. argains. 366 Fifth Avenue, New York City. Art Shop, 1419 F St., N.W., Wash., D. C. MOT J. FEIRBERG, 55 West 45th Street, N. Y. ANNETTE BROWN —Tel. Orange 90. Mme. MRS. CAROLINE PLOWS. Experience has | FOR INFORMAL CORRESPONDENCE— pe Tailor to the gentlewoman of fashion. Smart Irene corsets & other popular makes; corsets fit- taught me that certain shops excel in certain Name & address neatly printed on 125 envos. & nolita spring suits made at reasonable prices. Special ted & altered; cleaned & renovated equal to new. lines. I will shop for or with you. No charge. 200 sheets Japan Bond, $1. Correct style & size. p . attention given deformed women. _ hg Mail orders solicited. Special! Heavy quality | Goods sent on approval. 7 W. 92d St., N. Y. A real bargain. ppd. Tiffany Press, Peru, Ind. FLO! crepe de chine blouse—Navy, black, light grey, | MRS. EDWIN McCALLA DAVIS, 606 West | ENGRAVED Calling Cards, Wedding Invita- Wrie h d white, or flesh—sizes 34 to 46. Other distinctive 116th St., N. Y., will do all kinds of shopping tions, announcements, births, etc. Monogram, Ital € amp S a es models. The Woman's Shop of the Oranges. 505 for you. Serv acall free. Specializing wall papers, stat., birthday & betrothal ecards neatly engrav. aly, Main St. (near Halstead) East Orange, N. J. chintzes, rugs and artistic furnishings. at special prices. Southworth’s, Milford, Conn. THE LAMPS of Original Designs. Exquisite lamp- | ARTS & CRAFTS STUDIO, Montclair, N.J. | AN EXPERIENCED BUYER is to you a | For the BRIDE-TO-BE: before ordering wed- alls shades. Chinese por ns. age request, Handicrafts and novelties. Hand-made ribbon saver of time and money. My service costs ding invitations or announcements why not con- & We Manufacturer & impor H. F. Winter & Co., bags, fancy and unusual. Retail & wholesale. nothing. Goods on approval. Elizabeth C, sult theengraver direct. Our prices mean a great oe € 12 West 36th 5St., ¥.C, x = 522 ‘Bloomfield Avenue. Telephone Conn. Malady, 33 Convent Avenue, New York. sa ying. Wollt E Bros., 1 165 W iliam— Street, N. ¥. LAD ia ON REQUEST samples of these bags will be | MRS. EDGENA BROWN TIPS, 503-5th Ave. nl sent, together with wholesale price list, to other Consult me before furnishing your home or buy- oe aun ering gift shops. 322 Bloomfield Ave. Tel. connec- ing your clothes. Will send on approval & shop tea TOO! I iS etal tion. without charging for my services. 1731 M. H. KNI1 LAUNDERING MRS. E. A. ENOS " WHERE LOVERS ; — Laundry Satisfactory? 26 East 46th Street, N. r. =. of the artistic sat er. Be Try Us neckwear General Shopping House Decorations. Luncheon .50. Dinner .75. see Parcels post paid one way. No charge. Tel. Murray Hill 9379. Roof Tree Tea Room, 5 W. 28th Street, N. Y¥. OLD THE WINCHESTER JANE CLARK MESDAMES SCOVIL & ALBERT Shop for | THE SAVORY TEA SHOP, / _E. 30th St. Deco! LAUNDRY CO. Neckwear. ae and with you. Services free. School shopping, Business luncheon 40c, also a * arte dinner. siz Winchester, A specialty of made-to-order neckwea Chaperoning. References. Write for bklt. 601 60c Southern chicken dinner Wed. % t. nights. — — 9 E. 43d St., N. Y. Murray Hill 7179. Cathedral Parkway, N. Y. Tel. 4302 Morn’side. “Wonderful Apple Pie Always. LY ° . . z EXPERIENCE counts; years as a shopper in | AT THE SIGN of THE GREEN TEA POT f .Y. enables me to secure best values & save East 36th Street. 1g ting ixtures nurseries ae money. No charge. Mrs. 8. D. Johnson, 347 Just E A of Fifth Ave., N. Y. 5thAv.(opp. Waldorf-Astoriz 1) N.¥.C. M.H.2070. A tea room convenient for igen, DAC] DALE QUALITY PERIOD FIXTURES FORD’S Nurseries & Greenhouses. Whether THE PICCADILLY TEA ROOM va Ingenious adaptations Original conceptions. your country place is new or well established we : The last word in tea dainties, tempting — Ibs T Prices below retail New Catalog No. 7. Dis- ean help with your planting scheme. Hardy specla gowns eons and dinners. Open Sundays 4 play rooms, 105 West 13th St., New York City. plants for all purposes. Send us your problem. 172 W. 72d St., near Broadw ay. ie THE LONG FELT WANT YOUR landscape problem solved; make house DISTINCTIVE GOWNS THE DpIcH OVEN—135 MacDougal &t., May be filled, perhaps by consulting this page. If and grounds alivable unit. Join them withthe | Schneider-Anderson. 16-18 West 46th Street, Near Washington Square. the thing you require is not mentioned here, write proper planting of evergreens, shrubs, vines pe- New York City Lunch—Tea—Dinner. We make a specialty the Bazar. rennials or trees. Ellsworth Ford, Rye, N. Y. Note our Advertisement. of Dutch pastry, Visit our Dutch Shop. Fifticth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 30

Page 37

——— near from retail

ening Bon- posite Bos- tern- in ate pney,

dison style iren’s

ecial- yherd

ring, r our ttle C.

zrav. ‘onn.

wed- con- eres at Y.

nch- St., lalty hop.

tea rooms (Continued) unusual gifts | (Continued) unusual gifts (Continued)

DAFFODIL DINING ROOM —Breakfasts, juncheons, teas, & dinners. Reasonable prices.

Orders taken for invalid cookir jellies, pies, cakes, ete. 22 W. 47 St. Phone 2894 Bryant, BOXES— individual boxes for individual gifts; bags and seasonable novelties for the gift shops. Mrs. Estes, 64 West 48th Street, New York. unusual gifts (Continued

SEND ME SAMPLE of the color desired and | $1.00 and I wiil send you three telephone | memorandum pads with pencil attached. Jane Gray, 22 Farmington Rd., E. Cleveland,O.

HAWAIIAN Ukulele genuine Koa-wood; inlaid sound-hole $5 to $15; easy to play Instruction book & music free Catalog, write loha Ukulele Co., 224 8S. L

St., Chicago

toilet preparations EASTER GIFTS: Imported egg cup with indi- vidual china salt & pe ea shakers in the form of miniature eggs. $1.25. C.J. Dierckx, Lmporter, 34 W. 36th St., N. Y. CHINESE hand-wrought SCISSORS. Im- ported tor first time into U.S. Very unique for Bridge Prizes. $1 postpaid. Oriental Importing Co., 202 Crs Awiord | & Conover Seattle Bldg.,

PATE GRISE for AGING HANDS, hands: older than your face? ishes “crepiness rejuvenates 3 let Aurora Specialties Co., Lowell, Mi TINTING POWDER, Damask Rose, innova- tion replacing rouge. AS refined as white powder. Excellent for skin. Post-pd. $1 box. Aurora Specialties Co., Lowell, Mass. Dept. A booklet. FOR TRAVELING, Creme Merveilleuse, de Beaute, Poudre ‘Ide mes Lotion Ro rouge, red lip salve, Savon Dys (cap) complete in box,S5ppd. v. ‘Darsy, 14W. ELIZABETH HUBBARD’S ROSE TINT A rouge in jelly form of most natural coloring. Cannot be detected. Harmless, lasting & delicate. 75e jar- Klizabeth Hubbard, 106 W. 40S8t., N.Y. JOHN POST’S Blackhead lotion eradicates blackheads by absorbing the secretion in the pores, contracts large pores, cls ae the skin. $1. Stood test for 20 yrs. 200 W. 72d St., N. Y. WOMEN OF BRAZIL, noted for beautiful, luxurious hair, use leaf of Enoc arpus tree as an infusion to Wash their hair. Carpine Hair Tonic, $1 bot. Hudson & Co. M.C. 489-5th Av. N.Y.C. GREENWOOD’S Rose Lotion for chapped hands & face. Greenwood's Perspiration Powder for feet & body, kills all odors. Send 25ce for either. A.F.Greenwood, 366-5th Ave., N. Y.C WILHELMINA face powder, scented with Hol- land's fragrant blossoms; distinguished for sing- ularly adhering qualities; trial box 50c¢; indicate shade desired. 75-5 ey eS Are your hcg ban- Book- Dpt.A.

Rosee dry ‘h ets, c.55-¥

47%

Holland Co., 175-5th Av

LADIES of New York who use Harvey's Neck Whitener look younger, than usual. Ap old discolored neck indicates age. At McCreery’s and Altman's, N. Y. 2 per jar. CREME LA PARFAITE, «a wonderful van- ishing cream which nourishes & whitens the skin. Manufactured & sold by T. Charles, 118 East_ 53d | Y. $1.00

Street, _N a jar, prepaid.

trousseaux MRS. COPELAND supplies or makes individ- ual gowns for the individual woman. Long-dis- tance dressmaking a specialty. C ote given personal attention. 16 E. 43rd St. » THE LONG FELT WANT May be filled, perhaps by consulting this page. If the thing you require is not mentioned here, write the Bazar

unusual gifts A SUMMER HOME LUXURY:

Cape Cod Fire Lighters; start log fires without kindling wood—always ready—no trouble $4 to $10 Cire. Cape Cod Shop, 320-5th Ave., New York. K’s PAPER DOLLS—Something different for the modern child. Doll with 6 chie costumes, $2.00. Hand done. Charming for gifts. K.Gillespie, Moorestown, Burl.Co., New Jersey . Al MOST PLEASING GIFT for any occasion is an “‘Art Box" of fresh flowers from Muir's unimposing aaa Poems in flowers verily. 62 West 40th St. Tel. 144 Vanderbilt. RARE THINGS FROM THE ORIENT Many new to America. Unusual—Attractive Useful. Bkit ‘*H’’ illustrating almost 200 novel- ties free. Bertha Tanzer, 20 West 30th St.,N.Y “GIFTOLOGY”’ A catalogue illustrating and describing scores 0 USEFUL HOLIDAY NOVELTIES ‘areful attention yaid to mail orders Co., 396 Boylston St.,

I L. W. Hall & Boston. ALL OUR GOODS guaranteed to be imported & hand-made. Call, phone or write, M. Hill 4771. Gambinossi Lace Co., 607 Fifth Ave., Phone 4771 Murray Hill. Goods sent on ap’ ‘val. MOTHERS, TEACHERS, NURSES: booklet, illustrated in miniature, of Goose pictures by Jessie Willcox Smith. politan Print Dept., 119 W. 40th St., FLORENTINE basketry,

Send for Mother Cosmo- _ i

Canti Galli & Majol- lea pottery, hand-carved frames, bookracks, etc Write psy price list Heath & Mills, I lore nee Italy, 1211 Union Street, Schenects udy, Y!

THE KENSON Novelty Bag made in variety of colors in cretonne, light or dark mahogany canes; parcel ppd, $3.50. Illus. on req Kendall & Wesson Co.,100 Boylston St., Boston, Mass

LADY POLLY DOLLS—Cambric . Art Nouveau). Hand painted bright colors, 75¢ up. Bisque dolis dainty frock, $1.50 up; mail orders only. Jeanne Beaufort, 28 Greenwich Av. = ee

KNITTING NEEDLES with point protectors

Decorated (oil colors) flowers or humorous he ads. Cedar, $1 pair: celluloid, $1.25 pair; ppd. C.J. Budd, 44 W. 22d St.. N.¥.C. Catalogue OLD FASHIONED But very new Decorated Colonial Glass in odd shapes and Sizes. Send for our illustrated list. L Y ¢ c ETT The House of Gifts. 317 No. Charles St. Baltimore.

Here is a group of reliable preparations which many Harper’s Bazar readers keep always on their dressing tables. From left excellent French powder, perfumed in Rose, Violette, tonic contains Che shampoo jelly, in tube pro- or Vadia 50c. The hair tiseptic qualities, $1. duces a bland and copious the scalp—price 50c. Next i der, $1. Finally, there preparation for eczema, fections, 50c. Lang group contains products from several different manufac- sent to tur: Orders should be H: oes" s Bazar, 119 West 40th St.. New Yori.

The serves This amusing little hand 1 kes a bridge hat rack is painted; m charming prize $4 A really good chaise longue, in natural color willow, $17.50. Seat and back cushions of cre

tonne, $10.50 extra or i solid color, extra. Freight prepaid to within 500 miles of New York. is’ a dandruff and other Bowl for strawberry 1 hardwood cover With glass spoon,

to right, there is first an valuable an- lather, and does not dry is another first class pow strongly germicidal skin af- the Shopping Service of

marmalade, or other sears the appropriate jam, pre- fruit $3 each.

GIFT BOXES & baskets of unusual refinement for all occasions exclusively prepared, contain- ing delectible brandied fruits, marmalades, jellies, jams & other delicacies: $7 to $15 & up.

wedding stationery 100 WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS $6.75 or invitations, nand-6nNrs ed, 2 sets of envelopes, 100 Calling Cards, $1.25 Write for sampk B. Ott = ners aving Co., 1035 Chestnut St.,Phiia

sliiaBiiaili Amenitaes HAVE YOU SEEN the original work done Luca Della Robbia or in your travels

by perhaps

you have seen some masterpiece of Benvenuto Cellini, its rare beauty and marvelous genius indelibly imprinted upon your mind creating a desire for a replica. Have you seen the wonderful wrought iron of the Sienese School—the Tooled Leather from the Golden Val D'Elsa, the Marbles brought to life by Michel Angelo, Dancing Cherubs_ by Donatello, work by the supple hand of Gian Bologna? And again

the grace and beauty of an Old Etruscan Majolica or an old Apothecary’s Jar or some wonderful old Cabinet that may have graced the palace of a Medici?

Persons today, acquainted with art know this work and have admired the originals in Museums and elsewhere. They would indeed be glad to secure at moderate cost

reproductions of these marvelous works. will furnish you through our studios in reproductions in wood, bronze, marble, baster of anything that was used in We Italy

i i- that

Golden Age. Let us supply through dor with these Address De Della Robbia "Sitidios, _your customers, high class goods. Aeolian Hall, New York wholesale gifts NEVIUS is now

Visiting the big cities in his annual across-the-Continent trip with his own, and imported things from everywhere.

NEVIUS—Spring, hings, daintily fully Aa NEVIUS for dates and hotels where his most interesting collection of new unusual and attractive Gift Things can be seen. CATALOGUE H. B. offers novelties in Original Summer, Fall and yaaa 4 as recently promised, ar displayed in boxes of Be: auti- Decorative Designs.

Sach St » Fe, we RSs

gift boxes, hand-colored cards for ¢€ sion. Write Dudley Causeway Mass. <

Ernest Boston, us. Street, THE BUTTERFLY SHOP, 96 5th Av.,N.Y. For specialty shops: novelties, favors, bags For anyone: dolls, animals, **‘Madam Butterfly 3’ sandals & powder puff. Whole. & retail. Price list. “KUTIE”? DOLLS—The new character doll; Sell on sight $10.00 dozen; assorted; A pilin U.S. A., and Bathing Kuties; Ch

“BAYBERRY WAR-BABY”’— elty by the maker of the berry Babies; boxed with dozen—Also: *““BOQUET’’— Wondertul Sachet novelty in sanitary envelope, $6.00 catalog out soon; send for it Jolin Shop, 303-305 Fifth Ave., New York City. CHIN FOO wiill bring you luck as well as your customers. All the way from China he came, and his reception has bee n well worth the trip. Make friends with the “Lucky Dog THE POLLY BELL is an exquisite and useful table ornament. It is one of those things that cannot be duplicated. Therefore it is in great demand. INCENSE BURNERS with the correct tem- perament. Faithful and harmonious in de- sign. ‘Totally unlike anything we now have in this country. USUAL THINGS treated in an unusual way become intellige rh f novel and useful gifts; door knockers, tat ble-buttons, picture hang- ers, better-than-bronze book ends & figures. MAKE IT A POINT to visit our display rooms literally teeming with gifts one hope s for but seldom finds. Bromse Products Society, Inc., 456 Fourth Avenue, New York. BOB-BETTY’S TOILET SPECIALTIES are now being advertised in the best class mag- azines. They allow you a good margin of profit, re easily & readily sold, because they are a timely nov- Famous Bay- verse, $1.80

each gross;

ATTRACTIVE, REASONABLE & USEFUL

Send 86.40 for generous assortment Money refunded if not satisfactory. Barbara Elizabeth, Inc., 652 Main St., Beacon, N. Y.

“THE WORLD FULL OF TOYS’’—tTwenty imported grabs in a real globe. 6’ in diam.; $1.50 retail. New ideas for shops. Studio Shop, 96 Fifth Avenue, New York City.

DAY CRAFT novelties for summer & fall dis- played, ; th v.,.N.Y. Cretonne bags for summer t 4 gifts, “of every on sc. Write for bkit. or have s’man call. N.S.Day,. Springfie ld, Mass

BROADWAY ‘FRUIT CO. ( ft Baskets small jars of strictly homemade preserves of the best quality; each basket is different; contains a novelty.

For Cleans shoes before entering 22 in. long: price $7. Weight 28 Graf Mfg. Co.,320-7th Av.,N.Y. FOR RELIABLE INFORMATION — Vrite to the School me... au, Harper's Bazar, 119 West 40th Street, New York. DACHSHUND Foot Scraper, black iron. door step or curb. Ouse or auto Ibs ibs. Frank H

EASTER BASKETS as individual in style as Easter bonnets. Favors and delicacies selected Baskets. domestic BROADWAY FRUIT CO. Largest variety of imported Fruit and The BOUNCER KIDS. A new novelty for chil- dren which bids fair to rival “Our Sister Susie's Skip Rope” in popularity; other novelties. Ellis Studios, 145 FE. 23d St., N. Y willow furniture

to meet individual requirements. Hester fruits Price, Berwyn, Pennsylvania. The proper fruit in the proper place. BOB-BETTY’S “Book of Gifts” free: profuse- | BROADWAY FRUIT CO. Rarest delicacies. | McHUGHWILLOW FURNITURE for town ly illus.; filled with gift sugges. :espec ly suit- Out of town trade solicited: ond for circular; | and country homes made in our own shops from able for children of all ages Gift Baskets $3.50 in town 75 out of town. | our original designs. Inquiries invited. Bob-Betty’s Shop, 565 Main St., Beacon, N.

2554 Broadway. Tel. Riverside 712. Jos. P. McHugh & Son, 9 West 42nd St., N. Y. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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$22 ces 2e oe * Vanity QV {fr \ ~* t ; 2 UNDERSILKS a FASHIONS ATTRACTIVE IN SILKEN UNDRESS 1 ILK has its practical appeal, too! Vanity Fair glove-silk underwear is teaching us that these intimate articles of bewitch- ing loveliness are as durable as they are charming. Though dainty and light as a fairy caress, this carefully woven glove-silk resists wear that would demolish many a coarse and heavy fabric. Clever re- inforcements, where friction and strain are greatest, triple the life of Vanity Fair undersilks. We can no longer enjoy a self-satisfied glow when merely our vest or union suit is of silk. Dame Fashion decrees that our camisole, our brassiere, yes, and our “dream-frock,” too, must join the silken throng. And why not? A Boytshly trim, knickers steadily grow more popular. This little lady wears them with a camisole of chaste simplicity—both articles are of Vanity Fair glove-silk in pink or white. Bodice is finished with dainty French band —knickers have French elastic bottom, with satin bows. SCHUYLKILL Fifticth Anniversary Year Harpers Bacar, April, 1917 SILKEN WOMAN OF SILK MILLS, SOOT AING DAINTY CAN RESIST IT? The woman (we think it must have been a woman) «who originated an envelope chemise had an idea—the designer who modeled it of Vanity Fair glove-silk had an inspiration! Empire in style, 11 is trimmed in delicately durable Valen- ciennes lace. ALL of these are made of the glove-silk which Vanity Fair silk gloves have made so famous. LUXURY CONTACT — WHAT DESIRES READING, OF camisole of Vanity Fair glove- silk will shimmer delightfully through a blouse of filmy tex- ture; such a brassiere holds the flesh in graceful lines, while no one can dispute that glove-silks are favored by the very best people in “Slum- berland” this year. Fitting tribute has been paid the tiny ruler of our hearts and homes by the talented designers of Vanity Fair. No layette is complete today without a baby gown of glove- silk—it may be as pearly white as the thrilling first tooth or as deliciously pink as the “‘after-nap”’ flush on the chubby cheeks. We can well imagine the most tearful baby—particularly if of the femi- nine persuasion—reduced to admiring gurgles by a glimpse of her mirrored person so bewitchingly arrayed. Who says that Pajamas aren't feminine? Have you ever seen anything more subtly, silkily so than these of Vanity Fair glove- silk? This little brunette prefers pink. PA. Vib. Be ey PT EU CULLUM MT —EEEE———E

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nine? é btly, love- A. HM LL OLA 600-Acre | Country Estate _ FOR SALE Located in the very Gar- den Spot of New Jersey — There is a residence that cost over a juarter of a million dollars to build, with most advanced appointments. The grounds have been beautified with drives, shrubbery, lakes, Italian sunken garden and extensive green houses. Property is equipped with tenant houses and all necessary out- buildings. Convenient to Country Club, schools, churches, and the Lackawanna R. For further particulars and permis- sion to inspect the property consult my broker EDWARD E. MURDOCH, Opp. Lackawanna, MONTCLAIR, N. J. SEAS HORE closet room. The electric lights, construction throughout, having just been completed, with steam heat, vacuum cleaner, For further details send for attractive Baker Croweli, Inc., 47 W. 34th St., New York City Colonial House at Great Neck, LI. Where woods and waters meet. This truly delightful country home, surrounded by an acre or more of land, is but 25 minutes’ ride from Herald Square on electric express. House contains four master’ dining room, kitchen, a balcony ‘eres porch, cold stor- age room, butler’ S pantry, etc., and has an extra amount of Ample servants’ quarters also provided. of s bedrooms, living room, this house is strictly modern call bells, ete. catalogue to Culross Vineyard An attractive about 40 acres, Tryon, North small fruit farm of % of a mile from Carolina; 40 miles from Asheville; situated in_ the Thyme belt of the Blue Ridge Moun- tains. There is a ten room shingle house covered with rose vines, with two baths, laundry and furnace. Property also includes tenant house, an excellent barn, tennis court, and vineyard of 2000 grape vines. Cli- mate is excellent all the yea This is a very attractive proposition and can be bought for a most reason- able price. Apply to Mrs. Alexander Gordon, Jr., 1041 St. Paul Road, Baltimore, Md. VIRGINIA FARMS ~~ ae surround- THREE A gentleman’s estate of desired, in the fox hunting area provements, beautiful views, social ings. A bluegrass stock apd grain farm of acres, desirable from every standpoint, and poultry proposition, 30 acres, station, modern residence, shade and views. Particulars with photos and catalogue of Leesburg and Warrenton area free. JOHN HILL CARTER, Leesburg, Virginia BERKSHIRE HOME 150 state road between New York and Lenox. acres, 60 acres cultivated, on main Colonial house in perfect condi- tion. Beautiful lawn, magnificent trees, swimming pool and_ fountain. Trout brook through charming scenery. Abun dance of soft spring water which sup plies house, kitchen, cottage, barn, gat den, and swimming pool. Outbuildings, and. silo in good condition. Might ex- change for good Brooklyn property. srick Further particulars write to JAS. S. GRAHAM, Owner 83 Westminister Rd., Brooklyn,N. Y. by The ELMS This beautiful Property The house is substantially built and was erected the First floor contains large room, dining room, kitchen. T billiard room, and bath room. PRINCE’S BAY Staten Island,N.Y. owing to available as a property, its easy ac York City, is cessibility to New gentleman’s country estate, as a seaside resi- dence for a private owner, or for an institution. The pregeety overlooks the Lower Bay of New York, the Jersey Highlands and the Atlantic Ocean. The grounds, comprising thirty acres, are beau- tifully laid out; a shaded lawn with shrubbery and flower gardens, a kitchen garden of nearly one acre, and a beach front of about 1,114 feet, gives the residence a most attractive setting. has riparian rights. regardless of expense. reception hall, sitting- parlors, butler’s pantry and 1ere are eight master’s bed-rooms, and additional sitting room, den, present owner Comflete details and terms upon application 29 Broadway J. STERLING DRAKE New York City Furnished and Unfurnished Houses For Rent at BABYLON and WEST ISLIP on Great South Bay Express Station. One Hour Out. For particulars apply JEREMIAH ROBBINS, Babylon, L.. i, * main automobile road. fli NALA _ VERMONT Near Lake nines 1 Furnished House to Rent for Summer Season Eleven rooms, toilets and baths. Garage space for two automobiles. Excellent ‘ spring water. Wide cool porches. On Photographs on request. Rent for season $2500. Address DR. C. oe. DEAN, SALISBURY, VT. dN ALL GREAT NECK One of the most attractive homes on Long Island can now be pure hased for $75,000 cash, which is at least $25,000 less than its actual value, Tusacwannantite alone cost $65,000. Savings Bank loan of $50, 000 can be secured if desired. Particulars on request. BAKER CROWELL, Inc., 47 W. 34th Street IN MARYLAND \ place where genuine historic conditions prevail. aesthetic tastes. ple of wealth and refinement. part arable, part timber. by motor. Price $60,000, FREE properties in the best tidewater sections of Virginia and Maryland. and REAL a INVESTMENT COMPANY w. HILLEARY, President 816 eemamel Avenue, Washington, D.C. and picturesque This true Colonial house, with its ivy covered walls, its old flower gar- dens, its box hedges, its environment of wood- land and living streams, must appeal to those of This charming old Maryland home is ready for immediate occupancy by peo- 350 acres of land: Washington one hour CATALOGUES describing 500 select interior | YOUR PROPERTY If you want to find a place, or to dispose of one, here is your opportt inity. On thes Pages appear announcements from the lead ing American brokers and agents. Read them carefully. Somewhere among them is an agent who can be helpful to you, and who will be glad to hear from you, And remember that you may always write to Mr. David J. Gillespie, whose picture ap pears here. As a practical real estate man, he will give you any information or assist ance in his power—and there is no charge for it. No matter whether you want to buy, to lease, to sell, or to rent, a letter to Mr Gillespie will bring youa ee and useful reply. Address David J Gillespie, Real Estate Department, 119 W. 40th Street, New York. FOR SALE FURNISHED JERSEY SEA SHORE Chelsea, New Jersey, in noted Bishlon Newton section of seashore mansions. Grey stone two story house. Porch full length seautifully furnished in mahogany; oriental rugs Bil liard room; good closets, one cedar lined White tile bath rooms. Large fireplace. Mag nificent roses, About one square from beach Address: OWNER, |. So. Madison Sq., Ventnor, N. J. Albert B.Ashforth,Inc. TEN EAST THIRTY-THIRD STREET NEW YORK CITY 4 HUDSON RIVER ESTATE OSSINING-ON-HUDSON: 25 acres, beautiful situation, 500 feet elevation. Fine building site commanding beautiful views of Hudson River and mountains Picturesque glen, stream and springs Exceptional village water system installed Farm house, modern outbuildings On Post Road 1% miles North of Ossining, five minutes to Harmon, where all Central trains = One hour New York % ‘hoicest location Splendid property for gentleman’s estate. Worth $50 000, sell for 5,000. Leave 80° on — ane for long ed a re opportunity. EDV ARD (. DAYTC f Re REAL TY SPECIALIST, POUG HKEEDSIE. nN. A Home in the Ozarks 200-Acre Farm located in the best peach section of the Ozarks and the largest peach section Combination Fruit and Dairy in the State of Missouri. 35 peaches, 30 acres in apples, 45 acres in pasture, 70 acres in native oak timber. Farm joins the town of Koshkonong, Mo., on the main line of the Frisco R. R acres in Large, comfortable Southern house. Two silos. cow barn, horse barn and. other buile lings. Wish to sell to settle an estate. For terms and pa-ticulars address R. M. HITT Koshkonong, Mo. Fifticth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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(No. 166.) a ea ay 2 A 4068 46 OOO © @rree mental shrubbery. At Greemuich This 24 room English house, built of granite and concrete, is set apart from its neighbors by great trees, evergreens and well developed orna- Situated in an exclusive neighborhood, with its 5% acres, its garage for 8 cars, gardener’s and coachman’s cottages of 5 rooms each, greenhouses, wide lawns, large vegetable and flower gardens, offers a complete and desirable estate for this summer’s occupancy. this home 6 double and 4 single master’s bedrooms, 5 baths; 5 servants’ bedrooms and bath. For rent furnished for the season or will sell at an attractive price. Lard & Richols, Ine. Real Estate Telephone 1717 GREENWICH, CONN. Bungalow for Rent at Shoreham, L. I. On desirable North Shore. Two-story stucco and shingle building with concrete cellar. There are 3 master’s bedrooms, living and dining rooms, kitchen and 2 yantries. Ample servants’ quarters. ‘lectric lights throughout; open fire places; and all other conveniences and comforts; completely furnished. This property is surrounded by private residences, is on a concrete road and is near the beach, with fine view of Long Island Sound. For further details address H. L. ZABRISKIE 36 Stanley Oval, Westfield, N. J large Camps and Cottages for rent or for sale at all prices in any part of the Adirondacks. Write for free, illustrated booklet. W. F. Roberts, Real Estate Office Saranac Lake, N. Y. ennai vovevevesuecavencsnenecesuansuaveucsusnsuennenacanecnacsaeensasouagr suvaeerentecsnnenen BAY SHORE :22%3 ON THE GREAT SOUTH BAY | We list the best homes and estates in this vicin- ity. Our experience and service are at your | disposal. Our specialty—the furnished home for summer. TERRY and BREWSTER Phone 302 Bay Shore, New York New ¥ ork City ; Furnished Apartment To Rent From May ist to October ist 1 West 85th Street An elegantly decorated and completely fur- nished apartment of six light rooms on eighth floor of modern fire-proof apartment house in an exclusive residential section overlooking Central Park—an ideal summer apartment— two large sunny master bedrooms—rental $200 per month—security and references required. ddress “Furnished Apartment,” Harper’s Bazar INE FARMS of Boston. All kinds. for “Farm Sheets” Sent free. REDERICK A. 68 Devonshire All prices. ann COUNTRY ESTATES In Eastern Massachusetts within forty miles Write describing over 100 places. KING St.. BOSTON TEXAS— Opportunity Large body rich farm land South Texas, platted ready for colonizing, graded roads, good Town on property. Rail- road coming through tract. Special price, easy terms, long time 6%. O. C. McLeop & Co., State Bank Bldg., San Antonio, Texas. Buzzards Bay and CapeCod For Sale—South Yarmouth, Cape Cod This attractive Sea Shore Estate of 2 acres, beautifully situated with frontage on water. Substantial house of seven teen rooms and three baths, cottage, bath houses, boat house, wharf, tennis court, extensive lawns, flower gardens, good beach for bathing, etc. Price $12,000.00 CASH partially furnished. We also offer desirable seashore Estates and Cottages, or land for building pur poses at Mattapoisett Woods Hole Marion otuit Buzzards Bay Osterville Monument Beach Wianno Cataumet Hyannisport The Falmouths Chatham and other points around the bay or on the cape. Artistically illustrated booklet with map will be sent on request. Auto mobile service H. NELSON EMMONS & COMPANY Office: John Hancock Building, Boston HII ] TUN DUATE TET MM Gununids for sale by us. looking Long Island wall garden. IMI We can offer exclusively MOTT RAYMOND B. THOMPSON Smith Building IHHtttytttY MAN HA {III mT | MT O more attractive ae than this ever has been listed _N A wonderful residence on hill over- A virgin forest with natural beauties veget table and flower gardens with aquatic flower pool and Superb outbuildings. one of the most complete and finest in our SPECIALLY PREFERRED LISTINGS. GREENWICH, CONN. PULL Lee LoL eo Co oo WHNNII HU WT Il Whal Cente | Sound and a well-stocked lake. and paths. Finest A de luxe property— several preferred water fronts. or CHESTER MONTGOMERY Phone 866 het wich yyy 90/ NHN NTUTNENNINITTNNNNY SS || THAT l 3 1.4 acres, elevated, with Sound view. New house of 10 rooms, sleeping porch, 4 baths, city water, electricity, hot water heating with concealed radiation; ist story tapestry brick, 2nd story stucco. IN GREENWICH, CONN., For details and price address GEORGE E. BEARN 325 Greenwich Avenue, Greenwich, Conn THE CALLTO BERKSHIRE We have large and small furnished cot- tages to rent, farms and fine estates, in and about Stockbridge for sale. DANIEL B. FENN & BROTHER Real Estate Agents Stockbridge Massachusetts Summer Houses POOLE & BIGELOW 70 Kilby St., Boston Country Estates BERKSHIRE HILLS Country Homes and Estates I have made a specialty of country prop- erty in this section for over ten years. My Real Estate knowledge and service are at your disposal. GEO. H. COOPER - Pittsfield, Mass. Floor H, Agricultural Bank Bldg. COHASSET, MASSACHUSETTS “The Manchester-by-the-Sea” of the South Shore FOR SALE and FOR LEASE Several of the larger estates with water views and of charming characteristics, also a few different acreages of land ideally situated For complete descriptions and photographs apply to We offer in WESTCHESTER COUNTY Country Homes, Farms, Estates White Plains, Scarsdale, Pleasant- ville, Katonah, Bedford, Mt. Kisco sections at prices below their cost and present worth; also Furnished and Unfurnished Rentals Reed, Clark & Lee Co. 15 Years’ Experience White Plains, N.Y. Green Meadow ‘Stock Farm Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 360 acres, rolling meadows, fertile uplands. Grav- ity water supply, springs, ice pond, stream, wood- land. Fine orchard. Keeps 100 head stock, cuts 200 tons hay. Attractive country house 12 rooms, all improvements, three baths, hot water heat. Fine lawn, shade and outlook. stanchions, silos 400 tons. Large modern poultry building. Choice section, five miles Poughkeepsie. Cost $50,000, sell very much less. No traders or triflers Serious buyer can secure great bargain. EDWARD C. DAYTON, Realty Specialist, Poughkeepsie, N. Y. views and a large frontage to ocean and beach bathing. barn, hen houses, gardens. Price $35,000 | J. Sumner Draper YORK BEACH, MAINE 175 acres of beautifully situated land, with very extensive room farm house slightly modernized. boat house, etc. Ideal estate to improve for summer or all year home. For further particulars address the owners 16 State Street, Boston, Mass. on the York River. One mile Comfortable old-fashioned 11- Horse barn,. cow Fine fruit and vegetable Mark Temple Dowling Cow barns, 100 | Benjamin C. Tower, 35 Congress St., Boston South Side, Long Island On Shinnecock Bay Estate of 47 Acres. Property faces south and the prevailing Water front. winds from the ocean. House contains 12 rooms and 2 baths, furnace and open fires, lighted by gas, has good water sup- ply with gasoline pu es Stable-garage, ice house, boat house and dock. Boating, still water and surf bathing. 20 minutes to Southa: npton by motor on concrete road. For sale or rent. For particulars apply to G. L. GILSEY & CO., Inc. 52 William St., New York City Tel. Han. 468 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 r

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2 . ee Se | g a. _ The setting in which the cottage stands. FOR SALE A CANADIAN PARADISE IN THE HEART OF THE LAURENTIAN MOUNTAINS Two hours’ ride by train or automobile from Ottawa, the Canadian Capital. Only eighteen hours’ ride from New York or Boston. About 320 acres of land bordering on 2 lakes. Splendid black bass fishing, trout fishing in one lake, and in neighboring brooks. Deer, foxes, and rabbits plentiful, and hunting in season. A completely furnishea cottage, equipped with Blaugas light, hot and cold water, bath, etc., and with sleeping accommodation for 12 persons. Also storehouse, ice-house, pump-house, boat-house and motor and fishing boats.

Write for partic- ulars to An IDEAL PLACE Murphy, Fisher, & for Towers pot jf. ARDSLEY ON HUDSON . 22 miles from New York City The Late Residence of AMZI L. BARBER offered at a fraction of its original cost. Price $95,000 For rent, furnished or unfurnished $6,000 per year

For full details, including permit for inspection, apply

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__ GRIFFEN, PRINCE & RIPLEY, Inc., 18 E. 41st St., New York City 2) PUALUUUALUUUUULLLENUUUULLUNNHUUDUERUUUUEI LANE MUTT TTT TTT TTT TTT TTT TTT TTT TT

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More House for Less Money Y the Bossert modern method of building, a great many savings in materials and labor are effected. Just as the locomotive is a more efficient machine than the hand car, the work is done for you at an efficient factory instead of by old fashioned hand labor, and you are sold the finished product. The time and money saved go into better plans, better ma- terials, and you get the benefit. Before you build investigate Bossert Houses = In these days of high labor costs method of construction makes it = why not buy the finished product in possible for us to deliver a beautiful E houses as you do in every other line jittle Colonial House like the above, of merchandise? Every house has re : on4 its own individuality, yet shares in with two 9x12 bedrooms, a 9xi8 the savings effected by large buying _ living room, kitchen and bath, with of material and efficiency in manu- screens, lattice work and benches facture. The economical Bossert included in the price. Price: Eleven hundred dollars complete F. O. B. Brooklyn Two men can erect this house in three days; not even a nail to buy. Send 12 cents today for complete catalog showing Bossert details of construction. = We also manufacture the smaller “‘portable” or “knock down" houses. LOUIS BOSSERT & SONS, INC. 1312 GRAND STREET, BROOKLYN, N. Y.

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Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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Kissel’s Original Idea that Changed the Motoring Habits of a Nation | (UDF ' - =~! | e GS ), ALL-YEAR | Car N April—the month of showers and chills—Milady finds the re- fined, warm and cozy ALL-YEAR Car a complete protection from the vagaries of early spring weather. In the form of a closed coach it meets all the demands of social ° ’ and shopping duties. Slandred Point Six In the alluring spring days of May and June it can be quickly trans- The car of a Hundred Quality Features, upon formed me & wide-open ROOF- which the ALL-YEAR Top is mounted. Kissel- LESS Touring Car. built from the ground up, it possesses that unlimited The ALL-YEAR Top is built-in— power, unusually light weight and luxurious riding sec csisiascillililinies iliiadlin: “ead comfort that have always characterized KisselKars. , , 1 at no visible fastenings or attachments a tial Ai} | | d h a, SEE YOUR KISSELKAR DEALER TODAY. YOUR —no rattles, draughts or leaks. ORDER NOW MEANS AN EARLY DELIVERY. A A ONT ca a KISSEL MOTOR CAR CO., Hartford, Wisconsin, U. S. A. See | OR EE Rr me geno ee NN

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a=. be 2 AEST NO SUMMER COMPLETE Dog Cakes and Puppy Biscuits Spratt’s Patent Ltd. SPRATT’S Remember that a dog fed on SPRATT’S is always a credit to his master. Send stamp for catalogue. Newark, N. J. GREENTREE KENNELS F Address Megr., 'Phone 361 SEALYHAM TERRIERS, all ages Wire Haired and Smooth OX TERRIERS Best bred stock—all the winning strains. GREENTREE wie et Manh * Manh . £. Bell Phone FERN ROCK KENNELS 6007 No. Twelfth St., Philadelphia, Pa. Dogs Boarded PUPPIES FOR SALE HERMAN F. MEYER, Breeder and Importer of German Shepherd Dogs and Doberman Pinschers Police or War Dogs he Largest puppies solicited. J. FRED CRANGLE, Megr., Titusville, N. J. ELAWARE VALLEY FARM KENNELS— Russian wolf Prize winning Correspondence breeders of sunds in the world. for sale. . Boston Terriers A few choice specimens, both sexes, for sale, by the celebrated FASCINATION A. K. C. 107292 Finest head and expression of any dog in the country. Prices, $20.00 up. Send stamp for illustrated circular. MASSASOIT KENNELS Box 195, Springfield, Mass. German Shepherd & Police Dogs Montclair Training School For Police Dogs 60 Well Bred Pup- ples to Select From. Dogs accepted for train- ing and studs. Write for conditions and terms, L. 1. DE WINTER Box 271. Montclair, N. J. Tel. Montclair 739-M is Petite and high colored urine. They make pa KISH-KE-KOSH KOLLIES From our large farm cennels Hardy, intelligent, active; bred from \ we a ing, prize- winning st Write re List B. MRS. J. A. SEAMAN Albia, lowa MERIT MADE THEM FAMOUS A marvelous tonie for dogs that are all run down, thin and unthrifty, with weak, watery eyes, variable ap- almost 160 Price, 50 cents. 10 cents. a dead dog eat. ges on dog training, The Dent Medicine Co., Newburgh, N. Y., Toronto, Canada suman AIREDALE TERRIERS The Quality kind from Registered and Win- ning stock Puppies, grown dogs and Brood bitches. Country raised, strong, healthy speci mens for show, pals or hunting Every dog registered and guaran- . Prices $20.00 up. Wollaton Airedale Kennels Richard A. Kearns, Jr., Owner Box 572, Coatesville, Pa. “Milnshaw Kennels Pome conta s, » Fekings se, d examination all, Write or Phone to Jules Ferond, 424 Sixth Ave. Tel. Farragut 380 New York | | 3 WITHOUT A DOG! UMMER is the season when you need a dog mest. It isn't, of course, the only time when you need him—for in our opinion, a dog is just as necessary all the year round as any other friend. But summer is the time when he is at his best—away from the city, and able to fulfill all his many duties to you. And this is true, especially, of people with children. No child ought to be brought up without a puppy companion. The girl or boy who has never had the re- sponsibility of a dog will not so readily show responsibility or kindness to other people. So, whether you want a dog for a personal companion, or a friend for your children, or a watchdog for your country place, now is the time to procure him. On these pages are many kennels of the best class; all are cor- dially recommended to you by Harper’s Bazar. Write to them at once, or: better still, go per- sonally to those in your vicinity and select your, dog or puppy from their stocks. And_ the sooner you go, the better. Un- like shops or stores, these kennels do not have unlimited stocks; so that the earlier you go, the better dog you will have. And if you happen to like blue ribbons at the dog shows, this is the best time and the best directory to chose from! THE GREATEST DOG SHOW to choose, Speaking of dog shows, were you among the forty or fifty thousand people who were at the Westminster Show in Madi- son Square Garden last Febru- ary? Never before have so many men and women attended a show; never has enthusiasm and inter- est in good dogs reached such heights. Every dog in the huge building held court of his own; the corridors between the benches were so full of people all day long that progress from dog to dog was exceedingly difficult It was very interesting to ob- serve, from the Harper’s Bazar booth at this great show, the various reasons why different breeds of dogs were bought. lirst would come a father and son, in search of a terrier or spaniel that would be a delightful companion for both of them. Then, perhaps, would come the owner of a country place, who wanted a dog as watchman; and he or she would look long at the Shepherd dogs (many of them already trained as policemen) and at the great Danes, mastiffs, and St. Bernards. Then the woman in quest of the alluring “toys”; and the small boy whose taste ran to a dog that could learn tricks; and so on ad in- finitum. It occurred to us then that these pages of Harper's Bazar are a dog show in themselves—and not second in interest and value to even the big Westminster Show. In fact, many of the dogs are identical. Scores of dog lovers met at Madison Square Garden logs that they already had seen in Harper’s Bazar. And you, reading these pages today, will see before you the very dogs that you may have seen at the show. Use these pages as your direc- tory, and use them quickly be fore the best opportunities are gone. It will pay you to get off three or four letters tonight. Surely identify yourself as a reader of Harper’s Bazar, for the sake of receiving special atten- tion from the kennel proprietors. And remember that if Harper's Bazar can help you in any way, by placing you in touch with any kennel, or otherwise, you have only to write to Mr. Frank F. Dole, Director Dog Department, Harper's Bazar, 119 W. 40th St., New York. Great Danes I have for sale a splendid lot of pedigreed Great Danes. They are results of years of careful breeding. One Brin- dle dog, very typical, lovely suitable for a Also, faun and nine disposition, estate. which is country his brother, equally as good, \ younger litter Both male My prices are and I shall be pleased to answer all corre- months old. four months old. and female. reasonable spondence. J. Rt 622 North 12th St., 'THMEN, Phila. Mr. Effingham Lawrence, offers for sale the prize win- ning West Highland ‘Ter- riers, Champion Maister of Glenmere, Champion Rum- pus of Glenmere. Price $250.00 each. Two splen- didly bred young bitches, extra good breeders. Also a number of promising young Sealyham Terriers, both sexes, by the prize win- ning, imported Champion Braefield Temperance and Champion Dazzel lm. Prices from $50.00 up. Apply to W. F. Livesey, Crawford Kennels, Caldwell, N. J. Phone 448 Caldwell. WEST HIGHLAND WHITE TERRIERS and SEALYHAM TERRIERS | GERMAN SHEPHERD DOGS PUPPIES FOR SALE HOHELUFT KENNELS Stapleton, Staten Island, N. MRS. BYRON ROGERS Sealyham and Cairn Terriers. Imported and home bred puppies in_ both breeds for sale Not sent on approval, but can be seen at any time Sealyham, Weston Wait and See (Eng.). Fee, $25 At Stud Caim. hog Northern Nonpareil (Eng.). Fee, : or $25 and choice of litter. LLANDOYLEY KEN Phone Pt. Wash. 231 Port Washington, L. |. At Stud Toy BlackandTan Terriers Most exquisite of all toy dogs. I have made a specialty of these dogs for many vear Mine are the _ best. Also PE KING ESE puppies. In fact, for any breed of toy dog, write me. RosE CaRRENO, breeder and exhibitor of Toy Dogs. 2125 E. 12th St., Brooklyn, N. Y OR Sale—Hich Class ae Winning Wire-haired F ou and Smooth Fox [ 4, Terriers, Irish Terriers, cm Airedale Terriers, a P é k Manchester Black and Tan Terriers, Bull Terriers and mostly all breeds for sale ALF DELMONT leeds Kennels ST. BERNARDS pie _ glace &t. pups ready to ship.« GROVELAND KENNELS, THE RELIANCE CATTERY ‘ ihe araplon Dande lie CF! pal 8 be: az winners G ong land andAme riea, Fe smoke and black. a for be arded. Outside runs. AN Phone 2546 Audubon ' BERNARDSVILLE, My specialty is Pekingese and French Bulldogs. My pies are winners, not prize - winning America. my personal supervision. dogs Housed, faction guaranteed. 341 Dean Street = Champion = 3805 Lindell Av. Apply Wynnewood, Pa. Lots of CANTON, MASS. Registered) A, 658. .M pe $15 80 ats ond Bie 4 Three eks Old Kittens of f e Aleyone ‘NA M. McA TER, 310 West 140th Street ag Near Eighth Ave., N. SCOTTISH TERRIERS For Sale and at Stud i - Equally at House and WALESCOTT KENNELS ; N. J. Companions Hlome in Stable. pup- from prize- prices are prices — Best value in Dogs raised under Toy care, Satis- bred but my less boarded, loving not kenneled, MRS. J. WALLACE Phone Main 3807 W Brooklyn, N. F'Scotch Collies from Im ane | Bloc k. Satis ac- tion LA EELE, ARCADIA KENNELS Miss May Thomp- son, Prop. — St. Louis, Mo. Y. osname, can HL saan NEW YORK DOG EXCHANGE, Inc. Giant St. Bernard, Great Danes or Newfoundland Pups; German $ and PDobermans French and Bosion Bulls, Dachshunds, Airedales, Chow-Chows, Toy Span- iels, Pomerantans, Scotch Collies, Pekingese. Ital- ian Greyhounds, Persian and Angora Wittens Always the Best —At Lowest Prices 221 Third Ave., New York | 37 Year 1917 Fiftieth Anniversary Harper's Bazar, April,

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Dogs Dogs Dogs Dogs THE DOG SHOP j 15 EAST 35th STREET (Just Opposite Altman’s) NEW YORK Mrs. D. D. DUNN Because we sell healthy and attractive Dogs of Quality and Guaranteed Breeding Phone, Murray Hill 6025 The Successful Shop—Why? Puppies and Grown Dogs of all Breeds, Boston Terriers and Chow Chows a Specialty At Stud Fee $15 Champion “Some Boy” My Own Breeding — Every Home Needs A Good Dog Good dogs are an asset and not an expense, so when you buy a dog be sure to get one from good stock. My dogs have won hundreds of prizes in England and America. I have at this time a special offering of Pomeranians, Pekingese, Boston Terriers, Airedale, Irish, Scottish and Fox Terriers, Police Dogs, Collies, etc. I can also supply dogs of any breed and it is_ generally known among the dog- loving public that I give the best value in America. No high rent, no fancy prices. é I will guarantee every dog sold from my kennels. N Reuben Clarke Correspondence 19 cordially invited. ig National and International ; i Judge and exhibitor for 25 + years. A leading authority } on all breeds of dogs was : born in London, England. i] He has been a dog lover all | 4 his life and adopted his ‘ { chosen profession for man’s best friend—the «log. . | 4 | | . | P| j ” } Pekingese puppies—the kind we Pomeranian imported by me. ; | offer our customers for sale— We now have some handsome ‘ | they are the real kind. puppies by him. ri Reuben Clarke, Prop., NEW YORK KENNELS Boston Terriers ver 113 East 9th Street 4 handsomely marked, ail 7. ; ages for sale, {near Wanamaker’s) Telephone 5589 Stuyvesant it — - - —_ $$$ ; ; a wl m ) Wire Haired Fox Terri ! | ‘ ‘ Prides Hill Tough Guy—1st Novice, H 2nd Puppy Haverhill. ‘e Prides Hill Towser—ist Novice, 2nd ¢ Puppy New Haven. 5 ; These ten months old sons of Ch. 3 Pa a fj i rm Wireboy of Paignton out of Prides i Grown > Sale Hill Fancy (Olcliffe Chunky ) are . a - over distemper and in splendid ‘ : shape. As they go on developing ; they can do a great deal of win- i CONEJO KENNELS |[)} ning. ‘$150 each. Offer at Stud © ° WIRE-HAIRED FOX TERRIERS Racing Whippet Sensational British Champion Conejo Wy 2 collar Boy, fee $50. Ch. Wireboy Peign ton, fee $50. Ch. Guycroft Salex, fee $25 For Sale iia Conejo Parcel Post, fee $25. Conejo Hard Beautiful red brown bitch under three ia Nut, fee $25. Conejo High Brow, fee $25. years old—thoroughly trained—very fast, $125 Address All Communications to ass. rom Sercier puppies for este. Chas. Trayford, Mogr., Huntington, L. 1. Q. A. Shaw McKean Telephone 290 Huntington 12 Ashburton Place, Boston, Mass. your money buys love unflinching tha log. We have two fine litters =e Year 1917 Fiftieth : Harper's {nniz Basar, ersary April, of winter pups that will make grand dogs before the spring The island White Collie Kennels White Sc Scotch Collies The dogs for city, suburb, farm or ranch. At the mountain, prairie, seaside or woods the White Collie is the great pet and companion. The partner of the boy on his hikes and the fearless protector of the girls on their rambles in the country. The comfort of the mother who wants a fearless guardian of the home and children. The best help on the farm, having been from time immemorial the great cattle and sheep dog. Also herd poultry, pigs, g A great ornament to city or country grounds A stunning companion for young ladies on walking, horseback trips, as the White Collie most beautiful aristocrat of dogdom. A pair will raise three or four hundred dollars’ worth of puppies a year as they have two large litte Ts each year (sometimes as many as twelve in Fine gifts for your friends from your country place Stand the climate anywhere from the Gulf to Northern Canada. Ours are hardy country raised pedigree stock, having the true collie ‘‘expression’’ and conformation. They are lithe, graceful, hardy (no artificial heat needed in coldest winters), brave, gentle with children, faithful, intelligent, beautiful, tireless prolific Probably only kennels in the world where unrelated pair of Whites can be furnished Prices very reasonable, to suit all pockets. Kipling says, ‘‘Buy a pup and t cannot die Every child has a right to be brought up with a shows, Address Dept. H. Oshkosh, Wis. Beautiful Japanese Spaniels z, Pekingese and Pomeranians For Sale Imported and prize- winning stock, also Pomeranians. Pup- pies of all ages from above dogs from $25.00 to $300.00. At stud Japanese Span- iels Mikado, Kobi and Ping - Pong; Pekingese Ti-Sing, a brilliant red, fee $10.00. MRS. A. M. 1. CHADURSIAN 26 Clarkson Avenue Flatbush, Brooklyn, N. Y. Telephone, 6691 Flatbush German Police Dogs Doberman Pinschers For Sale: Puppies bred only from Im- ported and Champion Stock. Lord von Spich- ernberg. At Stud (newly imported). MARYCHEL FOOD For dogs, best and most economical food on the market. Ask for circular. St. Marychel Kennels yycles'¢y, Hills Tel. Wellesley 245W PERSIANS Overbrook Kitten Exchange Where all colors of Registered stock can be pur- chased. Nothing handled but clean healthy speci- mens in very best condi- tion. Cats boarded while owners are on vaca- tion, by day. or week, home care. Gorgeous Orange Tabby Stud at service. Tel. Morningside 3987. - S. B West 125th Street New York City Ss 521 SNOW WHITE ESQUIMO PUPPIES The smartest, handsomest and cutest dogs on earth. WNat- Ty trick dogs and very comi- . Just the thing for entideen, playful, harmless as a kitten and very affectionate. Always full of “‘Pepp.”” My puppies are not raised in a city back yard, or crowded kennels, but on a Kansas farm. They are full of vigor the picture of health. =—sSend 5c in stamps for illus- on these popular dogs. ship on App yroval to responsible Guaraniee safe delivery anywhere. THE "BROCKWAY KENNEL, Baldwin, Kansas PEKINGESE Fifty. Allagesand colors. Mrs. H. A. ate Great Neck, L. |. Telephone 418 New York a Also 489 Fifth A nue , Beer gure 1236 Vanderbilt BELGIAN POLICE DOGS GROENENDAEL BREED Imported direct from Belgium of best stock. Most intelligent of all breeds —hbeautiful and = gentle. Excellent guards for person and property. Grand lot of puppies ready to ship, All prices. Send for list. AUGUST DE CORTE Belgian Groenendael Kennels 100 Willow Avenue, mqeenanks Staten Island, New York MAX DONATH Breeder of Police Dogs GERMAN SHEPHERD DOBERMAN PINSCHERS lor Sale, German Shepherd pup- pies out of Dutchess of Richtield (by Fels von Gesundbrunnen) sired by Champion Max. Dober- man Pinschner puppies and brood bitches for sale. MAX DONATH Police Dog Kennels, Clifton, N, J. FOR SALE—TOoOyY SPANIELS Strong vigorous puppies and grown dog. All colors. For pets and show purposes. Of the best imported stock. Make ideal pets. The home of Champion Ashton-More Torea- dor. America’s most successful _prize-winning Blenheim Spaniel Apply MRS. CHAS. H. SP H, 632 Olney Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. Breeder and Importer, English Toy Spaniels. BOSTON TERRIERS At Stud—Bostonia Flash, A. K. C. 180- 442, a consistent winner and proven sire of many first prize-winning puppies. Fee, $10. For Sale—Handsomely marked puppies and house raised Boston Terriers. LYNMERE KENNELS, Seymour, Conn. a TTT TRE a " Mee Affolter Our psn tear ELMVIEW KENNELS, ='purst — The Kennel of Champions A limited number of puppies from the kennel now for sale. dress communications 516 Scranton Life Bldg. ui SS Sects, Pa. TM LH lI The Best Dacishunds Obtainable Teckethei Kennels Dachshunds exclusive- American. strains. Young stock for sale. Address Mrs. F. D. Erhardt 80 Ivy St., Brookline, Mass. or Tec pholol im xa wee on st Berli BOOK ON DOG DISEASES And How to Feed Mailed free to any address by the Author H. CLAY GLOVER CO., Inc. 118 West 31st Street, New York Pioneer Dog Remedies | y. German champions | and specimens of best | For Sale Maltese Terriers, Toy Poodles, Brussels, Grif- fons and in fact almost any breed. Puppies and grown stock of excellent breed from prize winning stock. Exceptional accommodations for a limited number of boarders, Pittsburg Billie Kennels Dr. M. Carey Corkhill W. Hempstead, L. I. \ Tel. Hemp. 780. ann C “ 29

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Dogs Dogs POLICE DOGS sri," Ask for Illustrated Booklet PALISADE KENNELS, ®*Stcuuncty, Cocker Spaniels ROSURST —_—: Te | _ For sale— *' Young cock- er spaniels, male and fe- male, in red, black and { parti - color. All clean, ee salthy youngsters from prize winning stock that will make fine ts. Prices very reasonable. Write for particulars and description ROBINHURST KENNELS, Glen Head, Long Island CASSILIS KENNELS COCKER SPANIELS Importers and breeders of high-class Cocker Spaniels. All colors and all ages for sale. At stud the following: Ch. Mepal’s Roue (110561)—Fee $30—(Black and White.) Sire Ch. Mepal’s Shotover, dam Ch. Mepal’s Hilma. Winner of win- ners at New York 3 successive years, Go. Ghesneusase Durbar (184946)—Fee $25— Black) Sire Durbar, dam Chesasusque i Has been shown at 8 shows, won 6 winners and 2 reserve winners, Dygert’s Buster Brown (185228)—Fee $20— (Red and White). Sire Midkiff Jocko, dam Honey Girl IL. Puppies and grown stock of ( same fine breeding usually for sale. Telegraph and express address, Great Barrington, Mass. P. 0., New Marlboro, Berkshire Co., Mass. “29 YEARS SPENT WITH LIVE STOCK” Departments Departments = Catalogue sattie Water Fowl Free on Goats ogs Request Swine Pet Stock Farm Equipment ELM POULTRY YARDS and STOCK FARMS Box B, Hartford, Connecticut Breeders, Exhibitors and Shippers of Thorough- bred Stock tor Exhibition and Breeding Purposes IRISH TERRIERS Make the best companions and knock- about dogs for children and. grownups. For city or country. Increasing in Pop- ularity every day. They are game, in- telligent, and lovable. > a nice lot of youngsters. Four months old by the celebrated Champion Thorncroft Marks- men. Ready to ship. Price $25.00 up. JAMES STEELE, Port Washington, Pa. ‘BOSTON TERRIERS During the last year I have supplied the readers of Harper’s Bazar with Boston Terriers. Every purchaser is a satisfied customer. I can satisfy you as I have an especially selected col- ag lection. able she companions My specialty handsomely marked E BINDO, at stud Bostons. MRS, R. F. FORB © 30 Mallon Road Dorchester, Mass, © Wire or Smooth Haired FOX TERRIER Makes an ideal companion for one who wants a pal. have the best and largest col- ction of these dogs in = part of the country, all ag Send for my list. Phone Piermont 357. exons KENNELS Mrs. J. B. Able, Tappan, N.Y. PEKINGESE AT STUD Pekin Chum- aa yok Sibton Tiny. Sun’s Ouen of Lienrud, by Ch. Sun of Lienrud. Dan Saidee Weaver of Llenrud. Puppies for sale—all ages. Reasonable prices. MRS. PALMER CAMPBELL Phone 34 Bernardsville, N. J. [ IRISH TERRIERS for Every Purpose There is No Breed More Versatile | : IF YOU WANT = A WELL BRED PUPPY uM A et ee nn cmt race erat POMERANIANS x Pioneer Wee Blackie—Eng- and’s best black stud dog—3'/2 Ibs. Sunbright Blackie —4 Ibs. ay Perfect Harmony Black Dog. —Orange Sable. Honey Sunbright — Pure Orange. King S vight — Warm Wolf Sable. General Mit e — Miniature Wolf Sable. High Class Grown Stock and Puppies for Sale. The O. E. LAKELAND KENNELS 42 BeauvoirAve., Summit, N. J. *Phone Summit 537 A HOUSE BROKEN COMPANION or A HIGH CLASS SHOW DOG Bred from a Champion or Prize Winner BY A CHAMPION DOG Write me and I will guarantee to please you An exceptional litter ready for delivery 7 DOGS 4 BITCHES Born Sept. 15,1916 Sire CHAMPION AROOSTOOK HISTORIC | — 179832 z Dam AROOSTOOK ANNABEL 210591 : L. H. POWERS Maine 4 Houlton - - Clyde Street Hemlock Hill Kennels Brookline, Mass. Sealyham Terriers First Class Puppies for Sale VGLMMPMLE LALA ASS SA AT Alstead Kennels (Registered) Rahway, New Jersey Have for sale a few Collies, com- bining extraordinary intelligence, comradeship and beauty. Won 200 first and special prizes last year. This season exhibited 3 times and won 104 first ane special prizes. Nothing under $ Write for folder. UUUDENOALONUENDAUEGUOOUOOEOD OUD GU EOD OOD ENT Pekingese Puppies of the very best breeding. Dur- ing the year I have bred and sold many Peke puppies and everyone has been satisfied. My dogs are raised privately by me personally. In selling them I am interested in seeing that they get good homes. Puppies all ages, all col ors and at prices that will sur- prise you. Write me. MRS. E. A. HISCOX 26 West 184th Street New York City KEEP YOUR DOGS HEALTHY them free from and common dis- orders, thus preventing seriousills. Dr. Gatchell’s Worm Remedy is recom- mended by leading ken- nel men everywhere. Dr. Gatchell’s Worm Keep worms Imported “Major Mineris of Brixton” 15430 CKC, Length of coat 14 inches. AT STUD Correct weight 5 lbs. I will of- fer the Stud ser- vice of this grand dog to breeders of Mal- tese Ter- riers. The first five breed- ers sending = names Harper’s Bazar, Booking Service "Fee $15.00. Do not be the sixth—Stud Fee $50.00. He is the only living Maltese Terrier in America or Europe with his length of coat and sired many winners in Eng- land before coming to America. Sires large litters, 3 and 4 Ib. dogs. Studs and pups and matrons for sale. MRS. H. E. SHORT "eet snd tmprte 361 TALBOT ST. ST. THOMAS, CANADA Remedy Liquid or pills — never fails. Quick action. Backed by three strong- est guarantees ever writ- ten. Send for circular sad price list of famous G & G Remedies for dog DR. W. H. GATCHELL & SON Dept. 12 Kansas City, Mo. The BLUE GRASS FARM KENNELS of BERRY, KY. offer for sale, Setters and Pointers, Fox and Cat Hounds, Wolf and Deer Hounds, Coon and Opossum Hounds, Varmint and Rab- bit Hounds, Bear and Lion Hounds, also Airedale Ter- riers. All dogs shipped on trial, purchaser to judge quality. Satisfaction guar- anteed or money refunded. Sixty-page, highly illustra- tive, instructive and in- teresting catalogue for ten cents in stamps or coin. MRS. HENRY HILL largest Pomeranian importer, has for sale the Highest Class Collection of Poms in America All colors and weights ALSO PEKINGESE Prices from $50 up. Dogs boarded and shown, Veterina- rian in attendance. Qualified English kennel maid. Splendid runs for dogs. Inspection invited. PALL MALL KENNELS MRS. HENRY HILL, Prop. 2340 Grand Boulevard and Concourse near 185th St., New York. the world’s Yankibourne Kennels PEKINGESE AT STUD LAUREL OF LANG FEE, $50 Winners Dogs at Pekingese Specialty Show. HOUX OF GLEBELANDS FEE, $50 Sire of Rowena of Burton on Dee and many other winners. TIM YEE KUNG of ALDERBOURNE FEE, $50 Winner five firsts at first show in England. Reserve Championship to Champion Chu-ty of Alderbourne. CHUN CHANG OF ALDERBOURNE FEE, $50 One of the mest, popular TO APPROVED BITCHES ONLY Visitors only admitted to Kennels by appointment. Address MRS. MADGE THORPE 123 West 78th St., New York City. Telephone No. 9696 Schuyler. winners in Oorang Airedale Terriers The 20th Century & All-Round Dogs | Choice PuppyStock | For Sale Six Famous Oorangs at Stud Oorang Kennels The Largest Breeders of Atredale Terrters in the World Dept. U La Rue, Ohio AIREDALE TERRIER Puppies Game broodmatrons and young dogs. A prize son of Ch. King Orang at stud. Country bred, _ registered, prize winners. $20 to $100. And the smallest, prettiest and most intelligent toy the Chihuahua. The staunchest friends in all the world. LLSTONE KENNELS Bound Brook New Jersey Sunnybrae Collie Kennels Offer for sale puppies and matured stock by the world famed sire, Imported Par- bold Prior, the sire of five champions. Our Kennels are full of the Parbold, Seedley and Southport Strains. For 35c¢ will send my booklet on training the Collie. F. RAMOND CLARK Bloomington, III. Year April, 1917 Fiftieth Anniversary Harper's Bazar, 7

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Franco - American Soups Tomato Mock Turtle Vegetable Thick Chicken Chicken Gumbo Ox Tail Thick Clam Chowder Consommé Clear Vegetable Chicken Consommé Pea Clear Ox Tail Beef Julienne Mulligatawny Bouillon Mutton Broth Green Turtle Thick (45c) Clear Green Turtle (60c) Franco - American Broths Beef, Chicken, Mutton. 15 cents the can. At your grocer’s.

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(éasure: aera ! cm FI oe 9, ~ CONSECUTIVELY FOR FIFTY YEARS PUBLISHED ._\ Sy S > Ss Dy, A. ae Me Ta yes ll > ot SPRING OPENINGS. ‘‘ Five mortal Hours looking at the Fashions! What do these Fine Ladies think a Fellow’s made of !” the first volume of Harper’ CONTENTS FOR APRIL 1917 i917, by International Magazine Company (Harper’s Bazar) eee eereneeeneeee ee Tt SeUTetUUUOUIOUHELIVUOLENUET HH HI ut UUETERTELUHEULETAMEUVUHONOOSUUTOOVOGLUEUAGCUOEOOT TUE AHT THAT Ella Wheeler Wilcox (Poem) Mary Pickford H. Addington Bruce Margaret Widdemer (Story) .... Féte de Vanité Passed by the Censor......... Temple Bailey (Story). ........ Alice Duer Miller (Serial) Mary Garden {a ee a 55 F260 C0408. occ 5 se ee he ws American Ambassador... .....56 Designs from Lucile ES get ae oe 58 Designs from Bendel Decorative Sculpture......... 60 Designs from Hickson Coningsby Dawson (Story) ....61 Harper's Bazar Suggestions. . 78-8 | Designs by Erté of Paris. . . . 62-65 Along Fifth Avenue e International Magazine Company. George L. Willson, President; S. S. Carvalho, T “s Copies 25 cents. Yearly subscriptions in United States and dependencies s, extra postage, $2.« When you receive notice that yo » which The Bazar is now being sent, as well as the new one. ew York Post Ofiice as second-class mail. 4 =i

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a Ee Wee eee 9 ae Ris AA abel 21 = 5 = AP is eth ANNI sty] HA uH i! f By 4’ ¢ oes A AD BS : 4 (G4 Si hla ASS rind IND ion WH DIMAS ia ‘ / Mie nyt Gy, ARS A ANY, WY SS Veet, SII PE OND yt hu nN AY Wy Ai} ih Ui - AMIRI LE LUSRIAAUSDHLLDOSIASAEOGS CODLGUI GOAN The Birth of the Orchid WRAPPED IN HER ROBE OF AMETHYST ROSE THE YOUNG DAWN; PALLID WITH PASSION CAME THE MIST AND FOLLOWED ON, FLEET AS A FAUN. DOWN BY THE SEA, THEY CLASPED, AND KISSED. SWOONED THE YOUNG DAWN. 4 OUT OF THAT KISS OF DEW AND FLAME FAWLSINTANWALY iE: THE ORCHID CAME. EAHA ; MIAN & —Ella Wheeler Wilcox ss =r Zz = a SSL} ZZ LS SSS am EE=H EZ;

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howtesd UE EL: vr? Shr “Py rat ¥ From the “*“LOV &°° painting on ivory by Anna Belle CENTRAL wEWS Kindlund MARRIAGE By HE scene was the consulting-room of a specialist in nervous and mental diseases. The time, late afternoon of a winter day. Physician and patient sat facing each other. It was the first visit of the patient, a woman about thirty, strikingly beauti- ful, of evident culture and refinement, but with telltale lines in the face suggesting unmistakable suffering and bitterness. In a soft, well-modulated voice she was narrating the symptoms that had sent her to the specialist’s office. “T can not sleep,” she said. “I have constant headaches and backaches. I become tired easily. Several physicians have assured me that I have no organic trouble; that it is all a matter of functional nervous disorder. So I have come to you.” “And how long has this been going on?” the physician inquired. “For a long time, for several years. And it has steadily been growing worse. Things are now so bad that I never have a good night’s rest. Also my headaches are becoming unbearable.” “You are married?” Vea “Any children?” “No.” “Pardon me,” the physician flicked a speck of dust from the lapel of his coat, “may I ask if you are happily married?” “That,” and the patient’s face hardened a little, “seems a question scarcely to the point. My domestic relations can have little to do with the state of my health.” “They may have everything to do with it. In any event, if I am to treat you, I must have your entire confidence. I infer that your home life is not as happy as it might be.” The patient hesitated. “You are right,” she finally said, explosively. “You are quite right. I have all that I could wish, so far as material com- forts are concerned. But I have not happiness. Copyright, 1917, Harper's Basar for April H. ADDINGTON “My husband is not a bad man. On the con- trary, he is good and kind. But we have been drifting apart. He seems to be losing, not only love for me, but interest in me. He is away from home much of the time. For some reason—what it is, I can not tell—my marriage seems to have been a ghastly mistake. More than once,” her voice dropped, “I have thought of divorce.” The specialist glanced at her keenly. “How do you pass your time?” he asked. “Amusing myself as best I can,” was the bitter reply. ‘The theatre, bridge, social calls—I can always find something. But nothing that I do really satisfies me.” “No?” queried the physician, reflectively. “Let us go back a little. How many brothers or sisters have you?” “None. I am an only child. And both of my parents now are dead. Often I long for the early days when I was at home with them.” “Then they were exceedingly fond of you?” “They were devotion itself. I can not help contrasting their love with my husband’s cold- ness.” “H’m. Possibly that is a mistake. Pray tell me now, how were you educated?” “First by a governess, afterward in private schools rated the best to be found.” The physician rose, crossed the room, took from a shelf a small, compact volume, and handed it to her. “‘Ever take lessons in this?” he asked. It was a cook-book. Puzzled and amused, his patient stared at it, then at him. “Why, no,”’ she smiled. ‘That has never been necessary. I have always had somebody to do my cooking for me.” “Exactly.” There was almost a growl in the specialist’s tone. ‘And I suppose you have always had somebody to wait on you in every way. How old were you before your parents taught you to do 43 BRUCE things for yourself—to brush your hair, to button your frocks?” Before answer could be made he went on. “You tell me they were devoted to you. That means, I presume, that they could not bear to see you disappointed or grieved. Therefore, doubtless often at great inconvenience to themselves, they went out of their way to satisfy your every desire, to gratify your every whim. Do you not realize what the result of this has been to you? “Tt has made you dependent and self-centred. Also it has left you lacking in emotional control. And in these characteristics we have the explana- tion both of your nervous symptoms and of your marital unhappiness. “Possibly your husband himself is somewhat at fault. Indeed, he probably is. But we are now concerned with you, and with helping you to remedy matters. “To speak plainly, you need to get away from yourself. If you would regain health and happiness, you must acquire greater control of your feelings, and you must develop external interests. If your mind were actively and profitably occupied, you would pay no attention to the slight bodily sensa- tions, which have become exaggerated simply because your mind, not being otherwise employed, has dwelt on them. “Your parents, I do not doubt, did love you sincerely and deeply. But they allowed their love for you to cloud their judgment. They forgot that you would not always be a child, that the time would come when you would have to rely on your- self more or less, and also that a time would prob- ably come when you would be married, and would have to do your part to make your marriage a success. “Tn short, they failed to [educate you for adult life, and in particular they failed to educate you for marriage. And, alas, many are the parents who similarly fail to educate their children for marriage!

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The wedding of Miss Nancy Perkins, granddaughter of Chiswell D. Langhorne, and Henry Vield, Jr., MRS. HENRY FIELD tra L. Hill's Studio. Field, son of the late Marshall was solemnized in February at the New York home of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson. Mrs. George B. Post, Jr., Miss Flora Whitney and Miss Alice Perkins, the bride’s sister who stood up with her for this picture, were the attendants. That is why so many marriages terminate miserably in the divorce court.” Here, I submit, is a view of the marriage prob- lem worth earnest pondering. It is the more worth pondering on account of the steady increase in divorce, that most clear-cut symptom of failure in the marriage relations. Few people appreciate how marked this increase has been in our own land—so marked, indeed, that to-day the preva- lence of divorce constitutes a real menace. In the twenty years from 1867 to 1886, accord- ing to figures compiled by the United States Census Bureau, 328,716 divorces were granted throughout the country. In the next twenty years—that is from 1887 to 1906—divorces aggregated the enor- mous total of 945,625. In other words, in a period of only twenty ye nearly two million men and women in the United States had their marriage tics legally severed, the break-up being at the rate of about one hundred and thirty marriages a day. \nd this increase has been progressively growing year after year. In 1867 there were only 9,037 divorces for the entire country. In 1906 no fewer than 72,012 divorces were granted. Three years ago an unoflicial estimate put the annual divorce crop at nearly 100,000, or roughly one hundred divorces for every 100,000 of population. The same estimate indicated that one marriage in every twelve ends in divorce. Nor do these figures afford a complete view of the extent to which marital infelicity obtains in the United States. Every year thousands of 44 marriages virtually or actually terminate without recourse to the courts. Men and women, who have entered into the marriage state really in love with each other, develop so-called “incompatibiliti of temperament” which transform love into in- difference, even hate. Reluctant to seek divorce— perhaps conscientiously opposed to it—they con- tinue to live together, husband and wife in name only, or they arrange a voluntary separation. Many others escape from what they have come to regard as an intolerable yoke by the easy expedient of desertion, not necessarily followed by court pro- ceedings. It is impossible to give exact figures, but unquestionably the number of marriages which collapse in divorce is a comparatively small pro- portion of all unhappy marriages.

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Is a daughter of Poultney Big many, where she acquired some Evelyn, John and baby Francis. Taking the increase in divorce, how concrete, definite measure of marriage failure, the problem of explanation and remedy remains ob- viously and sufficiently urgent. And it must be said that as a rule the offered solutions are either evasive or superficial. Some investigators, despairing of finding any solution, insist that the increase in divorce is an unavoidable product of the complex, strenuous life of modern civilization. Others, much of the same mind, advocate “trial marriages” as a palliative. Still others, singularly lacking in courtesy, or of a myopic vision so far as women are concerned, throw the blame on the “ Feminist Movement”’, on the in- creasing emancipation of woman from her old- time position of slavish inferiority. Finally, there Copyright, 1 Harper's Bazar for April MRS FRANCIS A. CLARK mw and a granddaughter of the late John Bigelow. Walter Scott Schin Mrs. Clark spent her schooldays in Ger- unusual theories of education which she is developing in the training of her three children, Believing in the child's right to be happy, Mrs. Clark makes joy the key-note of her training. are investigators who, noting that the increase in divorce has steadily been gaining momentum since the Civil War, attribute this to the difference in economic conditions before and after the war. In effect they say that there are more divorces because the country is wealthier, the inference being that increased national prosperity has had an unsettling effect on the national life. That this contention is sound can not be gain- said; but it does not go deep enough. Of itself it no more explains the increase in divorce than it does the increase in crime and the increase in mental and nervous disease, equally in evidence since the Civil War. These, too, there is warrant for affirm- ing, have increased because of changed economic conditions. It remains, however, to ascertain the 45 precise factor or factors brought into operation by this economic change to account for the growth in crime, insanity, ous troubles and _ divorce. And in this connection it is most interesting and important to observe that, so far as concerns crime, insanity and nervous troubles, recent research has made clear exactly why there has been an increase and how this may best be checked. It is now recognized that, psychologically speak- ing, crime, insanity and nervousness represent an imperfect adaptation to the environment in which the criminal, the lunatic, or the nervous person lives. This failure of adaptation may be due either to inborn lack of capacity to meet the requirements of the environment, or to lack of proper training. (Continued on page 118)

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THAT OTHER ILEEN By MARGARET WIDDEMER ILEEN was lying in bed when she came to her senses. It was late afternoon, and the sun fell in a long bar across her bed and tinged one of the two thick plaits of red-brown hair that lay on the cover- let. She thought lazily that the plaits looked much longer lying there than when she had braided them the night before. Then she thought in the same dreamy fashion that the room was un- familiar. But her eyes were tired, and often a room looks strange when you’re not fully awake. She gazed about her—it was a strange room, for this was a double bed in which she now lay in solitary state, and her own was so small. An unexpected figure caught her eye. “Jessie must have been worried about me!’ she thought, for a professional nurse sat near-by. Eileen saw that the nurse was looking at her. “T’m all right now, I think,” she said pleasant- ly. “Is it—is it too late for me to get up and be married?” Her face flushed as she spoke, and she laughed shyly. She felt quite well, though tired as she was, she dreaded a little the ordeal of the mar- riage ceremony. And last night seemed so dim and far away. Perhaps her sleep had been troubled with dreams, for even the plans for the wedding were hard to remember. “It’s all right,” answered the nurse hastily; “you don’t need to get up—you—you have plenty of time. You had better go to sleep again.” Eileen laughed and sat up against the pillows, rubbing her eyes with a childlike gesture. “But, my dear nurse, I’m not sleepy,” she expostulated, “and I want to know about a lot of things. To begin with, why did my sister have me sent here? Please tell me—where am I, and how long have I been unconscious, and’’—Eileen hesi- tated—“what about Mr. Hardy? My sister told you, didn’t she? We were to be married to-day,”— for the first time her face showed alarm—“‘is it still to-day?” The nurse answered hurriedly, with a little catch in her voice, “ Yes,” and mumbling an excuse left the room. Eileen’s troubled eyes wandered to the soft, close-drawn curtains and the big mirrors. But she felt too weak and tired to care much about anything. Even Victor seemed a dim and distant figure. Victor—he had such quick, emphatic gestures—hadn’t he?—and brown eyes, and after all a comforting calm when you least expected it. Yes; that was Victor. Presently as she brushed back the tendrils of hair which had fallen over her forehead, she saw something on her left hand that made her gasp in astonishment. On the third finger shone a wedding- ring. Evidently she had been unconscious longer than she thought. And Victor had actually done that which one sometimes reads of in the papers— married her while in a desperate illness—so that if she died she would at least be his in death. So that was off her mind! And with a con- tented smile she sank again into the pillows. Her sister Jessie was at the bedside when Eileen awoke. Jessie’s round face was the only familiar thing in all this strangeness. “Tell me the whole thing, Jess,’’ she demanded. “T must have lost several weeks since ‘last night’.”’ “ Eileen stammered Jessie, and Eileen, her little hand seeking that of her sister, laughed. “Tf you’re responsible for my being married to Victor while I couldn’t object, I forgive you.” “IT suppose I’m the one to tell you,” Jessie said, in a choked voice, “but I don’t know where to begin.” “At the beginning, naturally,” Eileen answered, with a little laugh. ‘“‘ How long have I been ill?” “ Five weeks this time. Oh, Eileen, don’t laugh!” Jessie whispered as if some one were dead. Eileen felt a cold shiver of fear creeping over her. “This time?” she repeated. Jessie began to cry softly, and did not answer until Eileen repeated the question. “It’s eight years!” said Jessie, between sobs. “Eight years! You—you’re twenty-six, Eileen.” Eileen sat up and clutched the ribbons at her throat. ’ “ad oo “Eight years!” she repeated incredulously. “Tt isn’t true—it isn’t! Give me a hand-glass!” Eileen snatched the mirror from Jessie’s hand and stared at herself. What she saw was nearer the girl of eighteen than she had dared to hope. Thin- ner, perhaps, and the plaits longer, but still the same rich red-brown. Exeept for a ghastly pallor she could detect no difference in feature or colour- ing. The only change she could define was in the expression. This face looked as if it knew. In so far as she could see, she was just the Eileen Arden who had danced and laughed and wondered the night before her wedding. Eileen laid down the glass with a shudder. “T have heard that such things happened,” she could hear herself saying with singular composure, “but I didn’t think they happened to people one knows, let alone—vourself. Jessie, where’s Victor? Tell him I’m not angry; he was afraid I would be, wasn’t he?” She stopped short, for poor trembling Jessie had dropped to her knees beside the bed. Eileen noticed there were grey threads in her sister’s pretty dark hair. Of course, eight years— 46 no, no!l’’ Eileen screamed, but it was too late. The “How shall I tell you?” Jessie managed to utter brokenly. “Ts he dead?” Eileen demanded __hoarsely. “Oh, Jess, tell me, tell me everything! I'll go mad if you don’t.” Jessie tried to compose herself. She had been mother as well as sister to Eileen for many years, and what was asked of her she endeavoured to do, if it were humanly possible. “Eileen, dear, you remember dancing with Victor the night before you were to have married him and suddenly losing your balance? You remember striking your head against the sharp corner of the musicians’ platform?” “Yes, yes!” cried Eileen impatiently, “but that’s all I do remember, and it’s vague and misty. Have I been asleep eight years? That couldn’t happen!” “No,” faltered Jessie, “that didn’t happen. But when you regained consciousness, dear, you— you went back.” : “What do you mean?” Eileen questioned impa- tiently. Was she the victim of some dreadful brain disease, she wondered? Oh, if Jessie would only tell her all that had taken place during those blank years! door

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yd there stood a man on the. threshold Jessie looked at her sister with pitying eyes. “You went back,” she repeated. ‘You thought you were a little girl again. Everything that had occurred in the interval between twelve and eighteen was obliterated.” It sounded to Eileen like sheer delirium, and she stared at her sister blankly. “You’ve heard of such things, haven’t you?” Jessie asked. “Oh, it was terrible! Yours was a famous case; and doctors came from all over the world to see you. Though I hated them for watch- ing you and publishing their theories, I didn’t dare to send any one of them away, for fear that he might be the very one to cure you. Oh, Eileen, can’t you remember one single thing?—not even Doctor Darrah, whom you liked so much or— Alistair Gray?” “No!” said Eileen despairingly. “No, no, no! You must tell me, Jessie. Don’t you see that you must?—everything!” “T am trying,” said Jessie gently, “but I can’t do it all at once. When you first recovered from the accident we thought you were pretending to forget, but you were so upset and suffered so much Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April whose face was dimly familiar when we doubted you that we soon knew you were not. Oh, dear, it was heart-breaking! You asked for—mother.” The mother who had died when Eileen was fifteen! “And I went through all that sorrow again?” Eileen cried. “Oh, poor little girl! Jessie, how could God—” “T don’t know,” said Jessie dully. “I don’t know. But, dear, can’t you guess what else was blotted out from your mind? You had only known Victor a year—” ’ Eileen sprang up again, her little figure shaking. “T forget Victor?” she cried passionately. “Jessie, I couldn’t—I couldn’t!”’ . “Yes, you forgot Victor,” said her sister, in a shaking voice. But there was the ring on her hand, and Eileen consoled herself. Even if she had lost eight years of her life, all the rest were intact; and after all twenty-six wasn’t so old for a married woman. Suppose she had forgotten him, and he had had to win his suit all over again—why, Jessie needn’t look so tragic about it! 47 “You forgot him,” Jessie repeated. “You didn’t even like him. And you wanted your dolls and a skipping rope, and thought you were in school again. You were happy, except when the doctors worried you—that was my only comfort.” “Well,” said Eileen, “‘go on.” “T gave in to you finally,” Jessie continued, “and moved away from the place where we lived. I dressed you like a child, and let you grow up again. It was a blessing you were so little and childish-looking. People never suspected that you were not a girl of twelve—nobody, that is, but Doctor Darrah and Alistair. They said that you would go on developing and grow up all over again, and so it proved. Some day, they believed, your mind would catch up with itself, and you would re- member everything. But to come back this way— with everything for the last eight years forgotten— oh, I wish you remembered! Try, dear, they said that you would.” “T can’t now,” said Eileen, ‘but I may if you tell me more. Can’t I see Victor?” “You hated Victor,” Jessie went on. “They thought it was because you subconsciously dis- liked him for having been the cause of your fall.” Poor Victor! She could remember her lover’s eyes. Poor Victor!—but how ridiculous, when he had been her husband all this time! “So finally he gave you up.” Eileen for a second felt her senses slipping. “Am I not married to Victor?” she demanded. “No,” said Jessie, covering her face with her ands. “Then—then—who?”’ “Alistair Gray.” Eileen did not faint or cry out. Her brain held steady, and she wondered vaguely that it should- the brain that had betrayed her. She looked at Jessie, now thoroughly frightened—poor, loving Jessie who had done her best. “T’ve broken it to you all wrong!” she cried piteously. “Oh, Eileen, speak; say something!” “You’ve broken—everything,” said Eileen slow- ly. Then the power of thought came back and she began to talk breathlessly. ‘‘Oh, Victor, Victor! I love him—and I'll never love any one else! And you let me be tied to this other man. I can’t even remember him! And he’s had me all these years when I wasn’t myself. Perhaps he’s thought— Jessie, has he thought—” she hesitated, then finished weakly, ‘that I liked him?” “You love Alistair very much,” said Jessie steadily. “It’s only that you don’t remember. You see, dear, you have awakened before you were eighteen again.” What did Eileen care for problems in arrested mental development! She went straight to the thing that concerned her most. “Love Alistair! Love a man who would marry another man’s sweetheart when she was insane? You are absurd. Did you say he was a doctor? He couldn’t have been a very good one.” ““\ famous one,” asserted Jessie. ‘‘Eileen, you surely recollect. Don’t you remember how he loved you, and how you feared that you’d recall having cared for another man? You said that to me several times before—well, not five weeks ago.” Kileen shook her head. “Oh, it’s hideous, hideous!” she gasped. “I I wish I could kill myself! Perhaps, after all, that is the best way out. Oh, my poor Victor!” A man’s face floated before her eyes as she spoke, familiar and loving; she could hear him saying: “My own dear little wife!”’ Her sister’s voice, protesting, aroused her. “T’ll tell you something else,” she was saying. “Victor doesn’t need your pity. He married two years before you did, and his wife’s only been dead a year.” “When did I marry?” Eileen asked finally, “or rather, when did you let that poor, insane child marry this creature, Alistair Gray?” “When you thought you were sixteen,” Jessie answered, “though you were really twenty-two.” Eight years—how awful! and that waltz of last night still throbbing in her brain! She could hear the violins: “Your dream-love “Wait for her; “She ’ll—be—true—”’ And Victor, Victor!—whose warm hands and vivid eyes were as real as if he were actually by her side. Victor had not waited! And now, by a turn of the wheel, Victor was free again, and she— It was detestable, but one thing stood out as the essence of dreadfulness—her marriage to the un- known Alistair Gray. She could not hate Victor or Jessie, because she loved them; she could only feel cruelly hurt. But Alistair Gray she hated. “Alistair—” Jessie began again timidly. “T won’t see him,” Eileen cried out wildly. “TI will drown myself! I will not—” “Dr. Gray wants to know if Mrs. Gray can see him. Doctor Darrah is here, too, Miss Arden,” said a maid’s voice in a whisper at the door of the chamber. But Eileen’s sharpened senses could have heard the words miles away.

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‘No, no, no!”’ she screamed, losing the last remnant of her self-control. But it was too late. The door opened, and there stood a man on the threshold. His face was dimly familiar, yet no feeling of affection stirred in her heart, only a vague friendliness at most; then even that was swamped by the surge of hate she felt for Alistair Gray. To Eileen the tall, broad-shouldered man, with grey hair and cool grey eyes that looked out from be- hind glasses, seemed the em- bodiment of doom. The dim outline of a slighter figure might have been seen in the hall—the other doctor, doubt- less;—but Eileen was so ob- sessed by the horror of meeting her unknown husband that she did not notice. The scream that rose to her lips was never uttered, for everything went black again and she fainted. When she came to herself Jessie was by her side, but the others had gone. I ileen did not speak at once; there seemed to be such a lot of thinking to be done that she lay pe rfec tly still Her mind was quite clear now. She had _ been brought up to consider duty paramount and — she was married to Alistair Gray! Ought she—cou!d she— When she spoke to Jessie, it was in a firm, cold voice. “T’m well enough to dress, she said, “‘please help me. You needn’t tell me about any of the things ‘**at you were planning to do, for it will do no good. If I’m given time, I may forgive the man; but I won’t stay in the same house with him. You allowed me to get into this horrible situ ation; now you must help m out. Tell that Alistair Gray you tied me to that I abso- lutely refuse to see him or stay ead ; here. Tell him to send me ee ae away where I can be alon Tell him that if I stay away long enough I may go mad again and remember him Phat should have the proper effect!” “You were never mad,” “it was only—” Whatever it was,” Eileen cut her short fiercely, “help me to get away from this house!” She sprang from the bed and stood holding a chair, a pitiful childish figure with her long plaits and staring eyes. “Oh, yes, yes, Eileen; I’ll do everything you wish!” cried Jessie, putting her arms around the “little sister” who was still to be protected and Jessie began helplessly; humoured and petted. “Only get back into bed I'll go and arrange things the best I can with Alistair.” Eileen, not unwillingly, did as she was bidden, perfectly for her first wave of anger spent, physical weakness threatened to overcome her. After what seemed years of waiting Jessie returned. ‘Alistair is willing you should go,” she said. Somehow Eileen hated him the more for it. “He gave me a message for you,” Jessie went on quickly. “He said: ‘Tell her I’ll wait for her as long as she likes—forever—I am the one for whom she cares, although she may not remember me now. I’ll wait for her—and in the end she'll want me again’.” Eileen let Jessie help her on with clothes she had never before seen, of a fashion she did not know, but finer and more beautiful than any she re- membered. They were clothes that belonged to the other Eileen—Fileen Gray, Alistair Gray’s wife—and she hated the touch of them. 4g mwakening happy for the first time since her days, eight years ago. of the face, and the overwhelming love that came with it. and tried to think and, Queer half-thoughts, half-pictures rose in her rind like —s a brisk ride in the autumn wind; a leaf that caught in her hair; a room all browns and golds alight with the glow of a crackling fire, and a girl in blue playing on the piano; a man’s voice— could that voice belong to the tall figure, the grey eyes and hair she had seen in the doorway? And through all the pictures was the agonizing memory dominated her Every detail of the journey had been carefully arranged. Automobile, train, carriage— and by nightfall she was lying on a couch in a fine old house in the country, served per- fectly, and surrounded by luxuries for which she had often wished in the old days, but never expected to enjoy. Eileen was too tired to think, and took deliberate pleasure in the strange loveliness and com- fort of her surroundings. But next morning the tangled strands of her life lay before her. Not the least of her trials was the sense of un- reality which pervaded every- thing. Surely she would go to sleep some night and wake up to find that she had dreamed the whole wretched story. She could hear herself telling Victor: “And I dreamed my hair was that much longer, dear, away down to my knees!” The lengthening of her hair and a flitting expression of sweet wisdom that she occasionally surprised in her glass were the only tangible tokens she had of the lost years. One other thing troubled her. She slept dreamlessly, in so far as she knew, but twice she awoke to find herself smiling and on the point of saying: “Good-morn- ing, dearest—” It was sorre little time be- fore she realized that it was the other Fileen, that poor miserable little thing they had married to Alistair Gray, who was about to ofier the greeting. She remembered him in sleep and loved him! F-ileen felt her cheeks burn—it was ghastly! She wanted to be faithful to ker husband, but how could she when she hated him, and loved and remembered only Victor? “Your dream-love “Wait for her; “She’ll— be—true—’ The mocking music aides came with the thought of Victor’s vivid brown face. She could not remember much that they had said or done in those There was only the memory She took to walking a great deal in the garden, above all, to remember. Victor and their love. The thought of him mind—Victor’s dark eyes, his (Continued on page 134)

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THE DUCHESS OF Is making a theatrical tour of the provinces to obiain funds for her Duke, having turned Grosvenor House over to the Governmeni, has joined the Home Guard. Passed by hospital at Le Touquet. The REEZING cold out of doors, and very little better within, shivering Paris is rushing South as fast as limited’ trains and wealth will permit; because of the famine in coal the most luxurious apartment houses are cutting off the heat. It follows that many more people are on the Riviera than during the corresponding season last year, and while the- world in general is discussing the problem ef peace with victory, the Riviera in particular is occupying itself with the subject of economy with plenty. If you credit what you see in the public press, it is to believe that France has gone back to the.prim- itive days of stern necessity, and that you eat what is set before you without complaint. But when you are living right here in the midst of it all, truth compels you to admit that life is going on pretty much as it did before the war. There is an abund- ance of everything to eat that is good for man, and many of the superfluities as well. But the French Government, sober and cautious, is taking measures — a possible rainy day. The newspapers an- unced some time ago that there would be two meatless days each week, and now it is officially er that we are to have two days without patisserie; Tuesday and Wednesday have been se- lected for abstinence. Nor is this all. The menu cards in restaurants have been taken in hand, and henceforth there are to be only repasts d deux plats Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April WESTMINSTER €. o norre THE court. the et patisserie—a bill of fare of only two dishes with dessert. Add to this the general restriction in regard to the burning of gas, and you will admit that the situation looks rather black—in printer’s ink. But if you were here, you would find it a sub- ject for humour rather than anxiety. As for the pdtisserie-less Tuesdays and Wednes- days, that is a bugaboo which does not even scare the children. The pdtissiers hire extra help and work like Trojans all day Sunday, in anticipation of the rush on Monday. They have prepared especially attractive tin boxes, all brightly enameled in green and blue and gold, with tight- fitting covers, and they are reaping an extra harvest in their sale. Monday brings a rush. Scapini’s, the one smart patisserie shop left open at Monte Carlo—the others were all German—has a string of automobiles be- fore the door from early morning until closing time, and in the one day he does more business than formerly on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday com- bined. On Tuesday and Wednesday the flour kings can take their families and go off to the country for an outing, with the consciousness that they have obeyed the laws of their country to the letter in a time when economy is the watchword all along the alimentary line of battle. While there is no wide-spread want on the Riviera, such as the newspapers would have us believe, there is suffering among the thousands 49 DUCHESS OF Recently appointed Mistress of the Robes by Queen Mary, youngest duchess to have attained so high an honour at the British The appointment is immensely popular with the country. 4 CENTRAL NEWS SUTHERLAND is the Censor of artists, clerks, needlewomen and others whose services contributed to the gay sojourner’s joy of living. In halcyon days an immense colony of strangers could always be counted upon to come annually and bask in the sunshine of the Medi- terranean coast, luxuriating in its comfort and elegance. They came, they feasted, and gave them- selves up to fun and frivolity, and in a few months it was all over. But while the stranger was amusing himself, the people of the Céte-d’Azur were at- tending strictly to business. When the season was at an end, the natives had only to count up their gains and stow them away in their bas de laine. And for the rest of the summer they stretched themselves in the sun, waiting in peaceful security for the coming of the next season. Only those who are here can imagine what the calamity of this war means to these people. A whole population is left stranded like an immense theatrical company. The gay carnivals of Nice, which always began about ten days before Lent and filled the days and nights with regattas and flower fétes, costume balls and endless frivolities, are now suppressed. The innocent stranger thought this was France, light-hearted and foolish; but it was the French way of doing business; of coaxing the money out of your pockets while amusing you a la folie. (Continued on page 132)

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LADY CR ILLY and I came down from the North and opened a grocery store at Jefferson Corners. It is a little store and there aren’t many houses near it—just the railroad station and a big shed or two. Beyond the sheds a few cabins straggle along the road, and then begin the great planta- tions, which really aren’t plantations any more, because nobody around here raises much of any- thing in these days. They just sit and sigh over the things that are different since the war. That’s what Billy says about them. Billy is up-to-date and he has a motor-cycle. He made up his mind when he came that he was going to put some ginger into the neighbourhood. So he rides miles every morning on his motor-cycle to get orders, and he delivers the things himself unless it is barrels of flour or cans of kerosene or other heavy articles, and then he hires somebody to help him. At first he had William Watters and his mule. William is black and his mule is grey, and they are both old. It took them hours to get any- where, and I used to feel sorry for them. But when I found out that compared to Billy and me they lived on flowery beds of ease, I stopped sympa- thizing. They both have enough to eat, and they work only when they want to. Billy and I work all the time. We have our way to make in the world, and we feel that it all depends on ourselves. We started out with nothing ahead of us but my ambitions and Billy’s energy, and a few hundred dollars which my guardian turned over to me when I married Billy on my twenty-first birthday. \s soon as we were married, we came to Virginia. Billy and I had an idea that everything south of the Mason and Dixon line was just waiting for us, and we wanted to earn the eternal gratitude of the community by helping it along. But after we had lived at Jefferson Corners for a little while, we began to feel that there wasn’t any community. There didn’t seem to be any towns like our nice April By TEMPLE B New England ones, with sociable trolley-cars con- necting them and farmhouses in a lovely line be- tween. You can ridé for miles through this coun- try and never pass anything but gates. Then way up in the hills you will see a clump of trees, and in the clump you can be pretty sure there is a house. In the winter when the leaves are off the trees you can see the house, but in the summer there is no sign of it. In the old days they seemed to feel that they were lacking somewhat in delicacy if they exposed their mansions to the rude gaze of the public. There was one mansion that Billy took me to now and then. It was empty, and that was why we went. The big houses which were occupied were not open to us, except in a tradesperson sort of fashion, and Billy and I are not to be conde- scended to—we had a pair of grandfathers in the Mayflower. But that doesn’t count down here, where everybody goes back to William the Con- queror. HAT great big empty house was a fine place for our Sunday afternoon outings. We always went to church in the morning, and people were very kind, but it was kindness with a question-mark. You see Billy and I live over the store, and none of them had ever lived on anything but ancestral acres. So our Sunday mornings were a bit stiff and disappointing, but our afternoons were heavenly. We discovered the Empty House in the spring, and there was laurel on the mountains and the grass was young and green on the slopes, and the sky was a faint warm blue with the sailing buz- zards black against it. Billy and I used. to stop at the second gate, which was at the top of the hill, and look off over the other hills where the pink sheep were pastured. I am perfectly sure that there are no other sheep in the whole wide world like those Albemarle sheep. The spring rains 50 Photographic illustration by Karl Struss USOE AILEY turn the red clay into a mud which sticks like paint, and the sheep are coloured a lovely terra- cotta which fades gradually to pink. The effect is impressionistic, like purple cows. Billy doesn’t care for it, but Ido. And I adore the brilliant red of the roads. Billy says he'll take good brown earth and white flocks. He might be reconciled to black sheep but never to pink ones. We used to eat our supper on the porch of the Empty House. It had great pillars, and it was rather awe-inspiring to sit on the front steps and look up the whole length of those Corinthian col- umns. Billy and I felt dwarfed and insignificant, but we forgot it when we turned our eyes to the hills. The big door behind us and the blank windows were shut and shuttered close. There were flying squirrels on the roof and little blue-tailed lizards on the stone flagging in front of the house; and there was an old toad who,used to keep us company. I called him Prince Charming, and I am sure he was as.old as Methuselah, and lived under that stone in some prehistoric age. We just loved our little suppers. We had coffee in our thermos bottle, and cold fried chicken and bread and butter sandwiches and chocolate cake. We never changed, because we were always afraid that we shouldn’t like anything else so well, and we were sure of the chicken and the chocolate cake. And after we had eaten our suppers we would talk about what kind of house we would build when our ship came in. Billy and I both have nice tastes, and we know what we want; and we feel that the grocery store is just a stepping-stone to better things. The sunsets were late in those spring days, agd there would be pink and green and pale amethySt in the western sky, and after that deep sapphire and a silver moon. And as it grew darker the silver would turn to gold, and there would be a star—and then more stars until the night came on. (Continued on page 108)

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— ~ VN Ue LADIES “Come Out of the Kitchen” MUST LIVE By ALICE DUER MILLER Author of “The Modern Obstacle” “The Blue Arch” ec ¢€eters THE STORY—Christine Fenimer and Max Riatt, guests at Mrs. Ussher’s house party in the country, drive over to the former's summer home to recover a fur coat left be- hind when the place was closed for the winter. They arrive in a blinding snow- storm, and while Riatt is unlocking the door Christine accidentally frightens the horse and he dashes away. With night com- ing on, they are left marooned in a deserted house eight miles from any other habitation. ab HRISTINE was glad to get out of the wind, but the damp chill of the de- serted house was not much of an 1m- provement. Ahead of her in the dark- ness she could hear Riatt snapping elec- tric switches which produced nothing. “Tsn’t the light connected?” he called. “T don’t know.” “‘Aren’t there lamps in the house?”’ “T don’t know.” “Where could I find some candles? What a tiresome man, she thought; and for the third time, she answered: “‘I don’t know.” A rather unappreciative grunt was his only reply, and then he called back: “You’d better stay where you are till I find something to make a light.” She asked nothing better. She was oppressed with a sense of crisis. An inner voice seemed to be saying, in parody of Charles Francis Adams’s historic words: “I need hardly point out to your ladyship that this means marriage.”’ She had thought, lightly enough, that everything was settled the evening before on the stairs when she had made up her mind that he would do. But with all her belief in herself she was not unaware even then that unforeseen obstacles might arise. He might be secretly engaged for all she knew to the contrary. But now she felt quite sure of him. With fate playing into her hands like this, with romance and adventure and the possibilities of an uninterrupted téte-a-téte, she knew she could have him if she wanted him. And the point was that she did. At least she supposed she did. She felt as many a young man feels when he lands his first job—triumphant, but conscious of lost freedoms. Marriage, she knew, was the only possible solu- tion of her problems. Her life with her father was barely possible. As a matter of fact they were but rarely together. The tiny apartment in New York did not attract Fred Fenimer as a winter residence, ” Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April when he had an opportunity of going to Aiken or Florida or California at the expense of some more fortunate friend. In summer it was much the same. “My dear,” he would say to his daughter, “I really can’t afford to open the house this summer.” And Christine would coldly acquiesce, knowing that this statement only meant that he had re- ceived an invitation that he preferred to a quiet summer with her. Sometimes throughout the whole season father and daughter would only meet by chance on some unexpected visit, or coming into a harbour on different yachts. “Isn’t that the Sea-Mew’s flag,’’ Christine would say languidly. “I rather think my father is on board.” ND then perhaps some amiable hostess, in need of an extra man, would send the launch to the Sea-Mew to bring Mr. Fenimer back to dine; and he would come on board, very civil, very neat, very punctilious on matters of yachting etiquette and he and Christine, having exchanged greeting, would find that they had really nothing whatso- ever to say to each other. Their only vital topic of conversation was money, and as this was always disagreeable both of them instinctively tried to avoid it. Whenever Fenimer had money, he either speculated with it or immediately spent it on himself; so he was always able to say with perfect truth, whenever his daughter asked him for it, that he had none. The result of this was that she had easily drifted into the simple custom of running up bills and allowing the trades- men to fight it out with her father. Such a system does not tend to economy. Chris- tine’s-idea of what was necessary, derived from the extravagant friends who offered her the most opportunity for amusing herself, enlarged year by year. Besides, she asked herself, why should she deny herself in order that her father might lose more money in copper stocks? 51 Sometimes, during one of their casual meetings, he would say to her under his breath: ‘Good Heavens, girl, do you know I’ve just had a bill of almost three thousand dollars from your infernal dressmaker? How can I stop your running up such bills?””, And she would answer coolly: “‘By pay- ing them every year or so.” She knew—she had always known since she was a little girl—that from this situation only marriage could rescue her, and from the worse situation that would follow her father’s death; for she suspected that he was deeply in debt. Not having been brought up in a sentimental school, she was pre- pared to do her share in arranging such a marriage. In the world in which she lived, competition was severe. Already she had seen a possible husband carried off under her nose by a little schoolroom mouse who had had the aid of an efficient mother. But now for the first time in her life she saw that the game was in her own hands. She had only to do the right thing—only perhaps to avoid doing the wrong one—and her future was safe. She heard Riatt calling and she followed him into the laundry, where he had collected some candles. He was much engaged in lighting a fire. “But wouldn’t the kitchen range be better?” she asked. “No water turned on,” he answered. To her this answer was utterly unintelligible. What, she wondered, was the connection between fire and water? But, rather characteristically, she was disinclined to ask. She walked to the sink, however, and turned the tap; a long husky cough came from it, but no water. After this burst of energy she sank into a chair, amused to watch his arrangements. Thoroughly idle people—and there is not much question that Miss Fenimer was idle—learn a variety of methods for keeping other people at work, and probably the most effective of these is flattery. Christine may have been ignorant of the feminine arts of

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Christine wondered cooking and firemaking; but of thc superfeminine art of flattery she was a thorough mistress. Now as Riatt finished building his fire and began to bring in buckets of snow to supply their need of water, the gentle flow of her flattery soothed him as the sound of a hidden brook in the leafy month of June. Nor, strangely enough, did the fact that he dimly apprehended its purpose in the least interfere with his enjoyment. “Tf ever I’m thrown away on a desert island, I speak to be thrown away with you,” she said. ‘There isn’t another man of my acquaintance who could bring order out of these primitive condi- tions.” He laughed. ‘Well, you know,” he said, “this ror? Harper's Bazar for April if Riatt knew his danger you’d call isn’t really what snowed up in Alaska once.’ “‘Alaska! You’ve been snowed up in Alaska?” she echoed in the tone of a child who says: “‘ Was it a black bear?” Oh, yes, it lighiened his toil. Nevertheless he asked for her assistance in trying to find something to eat. She knew no more about the kitchen than he did, but she advanced toward a door and opened it gingerly between her thumb and forefinger. It was the kitchen closet. She opened a tin box. “There is something here that looks like gravel,” she called. He rushed to her side. It was cereal. He found other supplies too—a little salt, sugar, coffee and a jar of bacon. primitive. I was 52 “How clever of you to know what they all are!” she murmured, and he felt as if he had invented them out of thin air like an Eastern magician. He carried them back to the kitchen. ‘I wonder if you’d get the coffee-grinder,” he said. She hadn’t the faintest idea what a coffee-grinder looked like, but she went away to find it and came back presently with an object strange enough to serve any purpose. “Ts this it?” she asked. “That’s a meat-chopper,”’ he answered, and then laughed. ‘“‘You’re not a very good housekeeper are you?” “Of course not,” she said. “Did you ever know an agreeable woman who was? Good housekeepers are always bores, because they can never for an instant get their minds off the most tiresome things in the world, such as bills and how the servants are behaving. All clever women are bad housekeepers, and so they always find some one to take care ot them—like you.” E was putting the cereal to boil and answered only after a second. “Perhaps you’ll think me old-fashioned, but I can. not help respecting the art of housekeeping. “Oh, so do I in its place.” replied Miss Fenimer. “My maid does the whole thing capitally. But let me give you a test. Think of the very best housekeeper you ever met. Would you like to have her here instead of me? You may be quite candid.” Riatt stopped and considered an instant with his head on one side. “She’d make me awfully comfortable,” he said. Miss Fenimer nodded, as much as to say: but even so—” “No,” he said at length, as if the decision had been close. ‘‘No, after all I would rather do the work and have you. But it isn’t because you are a poor housekeeper that I prefer. you. It’s be- cause—” Compliments upon her charms were platitudes to Christine, and she cut him short. “Yes, it is, It’s because I’m so detached, and don’t interfere, and let you do things your own way, and think you so wonderful to be able to do them at all. Now if I knew how to do them too, I should be criticizing and suggesting all the time, and you’d have no peace. You like me for being a poor housekeeper.” He smiled. “On that ground I ought to like you very much then.” he answered. “Perhaps you do,” she said cheerfully. ‘Any- how I’m sure you like me better than that other girl you were thinking of—that good housekeeper. Who is she?” “T like her quite a lot.” ““T see—you think she’d make you a good wife.” “T think she’d make a good wife to any man who was fortunate enough—” “Oh, what a dreadful way to talk of the poor "Ves. “On the contrary I admire her extremely.” “T believe you are engaged to her.” “Not as much as you are to Hickson.” Christine laughed. “From the way you describe her,” she said, “T believe she’d make a perfect wife for Ned.’ “Oh, she’s much too good for him!” “Thank you. You seem to think I’ll do nicely for him.” ‘Ah, but she’s much better than you are.” “And yet you said you’d rather have me here than her.” He smiled. “I think,” he said, and Christine rather waited for his next words, “‘I think I shall go down and see if I can’t get the furnace going.” “Neve srtheless,” she said to herself when he was gone, “I should not feel at all easy about him if I were the other girl.” She knew there was no prospect of their being rescued that night. When the sleigh arrived at the Usshers’, if it ever did arrive there, its empty, shattered condition would suggest an acci- dent. The Usshers were at that moment probably searching for them in ditches and hedges. The marks of the sleigh would be quickly obliterated by the storm. No, she thought comfortably, there was no escape from the fact that their situation was compromising. The only question was how could the matter be most tactfully called to his attention. At the moment he seemed happily unaware that such things as the proprieties existed. At this his head appeared at the top of the cellar-stairs. “Watch the cereal, please,” he said, “and see that it doesn’t burn.” “Like King Alfred?” “Not too much like him, please, for that pitiful little dab of food is about all we have to eat.’ When he was gone Christine advanced toward the stove and looked at the cereal—looked at it closely, but it seemed to her to be but little benefited by her attention. Presently she discovered on a shelf beside the laundry clock a pinkish purple paper novel called ‘The Crime of the Season.” Its cover depicted a man in a check suit and side- whiskers looking on in astonishment at the removal of a drowned lady in full evening dress from a very minute pond. Christine opened it and was so

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fortunate as to come full upon the crime. She became as completely absorbed in it as the laundress had been before her. She was recalled to the more sordid but less criminal surroundings of real life by a strong pungent smell. She sniffed, and then her heart suddenly sank as she realized that the cereal was burning. She recognized a peculiarly disagreeable flavour about which she had often scolded the cook, thinking such carelessness on the part of one of her employees to be absolutely inexcusable. She ran to the head of the cellar-stairs. Riatt,” she called. He was now shaking down the furnace, and the noise completely drowned her voice. “Oh, dear, what a noisy man he is!” she thought and when he had finished she called again: “Mr. Riatt.” This time he heard. “What is it ?” swered. “Mr. Riatt, what shall I do? ing terribly.” “T should think it was,”’ he said. “I can smell it down here.” He sprang up the stairs and snatched the pot from the stove. ‘You must have stopped stirring it;’”’ he said. “Oh, I didn’t stir it!” “What did you do?” “You didn’t tell me to stir it.” “T certainly did.” ‘No, you said just to watch it.” Riatt looked at her. “Well,” he said, “I’ve heard of glances cutting like a knife, but never stirring like a spoon. If I were really a just man,” he went on, “I’d make you eat that burnt mess for your supper, but I’m so absurdly indulgent that I’ll share some of my bacon and biscuits with you.” His tone as well as his words were irritating to one not used to criticism in any form. “I don’t care for that sort of joke,” she said. “T wasn’t aware of having made a joke.” “T mean your attitude—as if I were a child that had been naughty.” “Tt wouldn’t be so bad if you were a child.” ‘You consider me to blame because that wretched cereal chose to burn?” ‘*Emphatically I do!” “How perfectly preposterous!” said Christine, and a sense of bitter injustice seethed within her. “Why in the world should I be expected to know how to cook?” “T’m a little too busy at the moment to explain it to you,” Riatt answered, “but I promise to take it up with you at a later date.” There was something that sounded almost like a threat in this. She turned away, and walking to the window stood staring out into the darkness. He was really quite a disagreeable young man, she thought. How true it was that you couldn’t tell what people were like when everything was going smoothly. She wondered if he would always be like that—trying to keep one up to one’s duty and making one feel stupid and ignorant about the merest trifles. “Well, this rich meal is ready,” he said presently. She turned round. The table was set—she couldn’t help wondering where he had found the kitchen knives and forks—the bacon was sizzling, the tin of biscuits open, and the coffee bubbling and gurgling in its glass retort. “Mis. he an- The cereal is burn- HE sat down and began to eat in silence, but as she did so she studied him furtively. She was used to many different kinds of masculine bad temper—her father’s irritability, whenever any- thing affected his personal comfort, and from other men all the forms of jealousy and hurt feelings. But this stern indifference to her as a human being was something a little different. She decided on her method. “Oh dear!” she said, “this meal couldn’t be much drearier if we were married, could it?” “Except,” he returned unsmilingly, “that then it would be one of a long series.” ““Not as far as I’m concerned,” she answered. ‘‘T should leave you on account of your bad temper.” “Tf I hadn’t first left you on account of—” “Of burning the cereal?” “Of being so infernally irresponsible about it.” “‘Oh, that’s the trouble, is it?” she said. “That I did not seem to care? Well, I assure you that I don’t like burnt food any better than you do, but I have some self-control. I wouldn’t spoil a whole evening just because—’ A sudden inspiration came to her. Her voice failed her, and she hid her face in her pocket-handkerchief. Riatt leant back in his chair and looked at her— looked at least at the back of her long neck, and the twist of her golden hair, and the occasional heave of her shoulders. The strange and humili- ating thing was that she had just as much effect upon him when he quite obviously knew that she was insincere. “Why,” he said gently, “‘are you crying, or per- haps I ought to say, why are you pretending to cry?” She paid no attention to the latter part of his question. “You’re so unkind,” she said, careful not to Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April “What a band of overdoa sob. ‘ You don’t seem to understand what a terrible situation this is for me.” “In what way is it terrible?” “Don’t you know that a story like this clings to a girl as long as she lives? That among the people I know there will always be gossip—” “*You’re not serious?” She nodded, still behind her handkerchief. “VYes,I am. This will be something I shall have to live down as much as you would if you had robbed a bank.” She now raised her head, and, wiping her eyes hard enough to make them a little red, she glanced at him. Really. she thought, it would save a great deal of time and trouble if he could just see the thing 53 culthroats! Drawings by A. 1. Keller Riatll ,» thought clearly and ask her to marry him now. But ap- parently his mind did not work so quickly. “Who will repeat it?” he said. “Not the Usshers—” “Nancy Almar won’t let it pass. She’ll have found the evening dull without you, and she’ll feel she has a right tocompensation. And that worm Wickham; it will be his favourite anecdote for the rest of his natural life. I was horrible to him last night when we were at dinner.” “Sorry you were ?”’ “Not a bit! I’d do it again, but I may as well face the fact that he won’t be eager to conceal his own social triumphs for the sake of my good (Continued on page 120)

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MARY Y mental attitude toward motion-pic- tures is one of intense curiosity. For years I have been consumed with a desire to see myself as others see me, disassociated from whatever musical art I may have acquired; and in the last analysis this, I believe, is my real reason for going into the movies. Since signing my contract I find myself wonder- ing if I can act without the inspiration of music. I can hardly wait to see. ide from my natural curiosity, I want to win friends; I really want to give pleasure. People who can not go to the opera, Copyright, 1017, Harper's Bazar for April TELLS GARDEN who have never heard me sing, might enjoy my Salome, my Thais. my Louise, even without words and music. Who knows? One of the inducements offered by the managers was that action amid natural surroundings not only provides the widest possible scope for dramatic talent, but through the medium of the cinematograph I shall become known to thousands of people to whom I am at present only a name. This is quite probable, for I am getting many letters since the announcement of my plans. For example, a man writes from a vil- lage in Florida that he wishes to thank me for consenting to give so much pleasure to so many 5A HY people; and a girl from a ranch in Montana fairly gushes because she may at last actually have a chance to see me—she knows my voice, she says, having heard my music records of “Louise”. Another girl, this time from New York, takes three yages to write: “TI could never hear you, as I never nave money enough to buy opera tickets, but I go to the movies once a week, and will be sure to see you there. I do hope you will play ‘Salome’.” The thought of gratifying these unknown ad- mirers gives me almost as great a thrill of pleasure as I get from singing to the wounded soldiers in the (Continued on page 138)

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MARY girl who is “just crazy to become a moving-picture actress’ may profit by my seven years’ experience. Let me at once make it clear that no one can become a “movie” star without the proper equip- ment and experience. The girl who wants to break into the game must make up her mind to be on call as an “extra” for at least six months, and maybe longer, before she can expect a director to use up film on ‘‘a chance”’. I often get letters from girls who say frankly that they “might be willing to go into the movies, even if they could not make as much money as I Copyright, 191 Harper's Bazar for April PICKFORD HAS A lly children seem to think that the man- are lined up ready to bow down before them; they assume that nothing but good looks is neces- sary. Wrong, all wrong! Education, intelligence and refinement are as necessary for success on the screen as it is for the actress on the stage. A girl can not take the part of a lady unless she is one— she can not fake poise, grace, repose, the courteous gesture and air of good breeding unless she has the instincts of a lady and the necessary training in manners. Beauty is desirable, but many beautiful faces do not film well, and mere prettiness counts for almost nothing with the hard-headed director. WORD Camera porirau by Baron de Meyer TO SAY As for the best way to get in—if I were starting out to get into a moving-picture company, I should dress myself as carefully as possible, for although clothes are not essential they do help to make a favourable impression. Wearing, preferably, a well-made lored suit of dark cloth, a becoming hat. clean gloves and good shoes, I should go the rounds of the studios, beginning with the one rated as the highest class and considered the most difli- cult of approach. On my first call I should leave a photograph of myself mounted on cardboard, with a record of my height, weight, colouring and (Continued on page 130)

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rns AMERICAN AMBASSADOR By LAWRENCE BYRNE ILLUSTRATED February 16, 19— INCE my talk with Kate in the garden she has been strangely different. I have hardly seen her at all. Of course we meet at many houses, surrounded by hundreds of people, but I have not had a conversation d deux with her since that day. I have tried to make engagements with her; and even though I have pinned her down once or twice she has managed each time to make some excuse. I have complained bitterly; I have even been reduced to writing her furious notes which I regretted as soon as I had sent them to her; I have spent hours trying to ex- plain her attitude and always end with the convic- tion that she resents my suspicions of her stepmother. Probably it’s the same old story of meddling in other peoples’ affairs and earning their whole-hearted contempt. Still, I had the right; she gave it to me when she consented to become my wife, and I should“do the same thing again Indeed, even if she grows to despise me, I shall go on until I un- ravel this situation. I feel now that I am quite prepared to repeat my suspicions to the Ambassador if things come to the worst. All this sort of reason- ing is pure piffle I know; there must be something else which has changed Kate’s attitude towards me. I am more troubled over her lack of frankness than anything else; it is not in character for her to act this way. N desperation I have been frequenting the Hunt Club, of which all the diplomats are members, and it may lead to some interesting de- velopments. Every evening, after they have ful- filled their dinner, reception and ball engagements, most ‘of.the secretaries and smart men of the town assemble there. By two o’clock in the morning it takes on quite a jolly air. The roulette room is the most popular, though there are always several tables of bridge where the stakes are sufficiently high to interest even South Americans. Being thrown with my colleagues in the in- formality of club life I have become better ac- quainted with them and even made something of a study of them. It has been said that diplomatists to-day do not represent the strongest men of their country, that such are needed at home and prefer to remain there. Judging from my colleagues I have come to the conclusion that this statement is true. None of them is particularly clever except in a superficial way; they all appear only mod- erately interested in international questions; in fact their main object in life seems to be to have a pleasant time with the smallest possible expendi- ture of effort. Occasionally you will find one who is well read, though he is looked upon by the others as a bore to be avoided at all costs. As for their conversations, they are banal to an extreme degree. A few days ago I had a letter from a friead at home in which she said that she envied me the stimulating talk I must hear at diplomatic dinners. I immediately wrote her a conversation which had taken place during the dinner I had attended the night before. It was between the French and Russian Ambassadors, with an occasional diversion now and then from the British Ambassa- dor’s wife. It was entirely on the subject of how many hours off duty each servant demanded. Human and important enough, I admit; but hardly what one goes in diplomacy to hear. The younger secretaries are quite smart, at least from a Continental conception of smartness, which is different from that of England and Amer- ica. They wear ruby and emerald studs in their evening shirts, have their clothes cut ridiculously tight, and are decidedly rastaquouére. Still they have a certain dan that isn’t bad. There is no drinking to excess; usually vermouth and Seltzer, or some insipid cordial, and most of all a sweet sirup.with water. don’t think I have seen ice since I have been here, except in the Ambassador’s highballs. The European idea of drunkenness is interesting. You may steal all the money you can get hold of, you may run off with as many married women as you please, break up families and flaunt your mistresses in every one’s face, but if you get drunk you are at once kicked out of the clubs and looked upon as anything but a gentleman. I find Comte de Stanlau is an habitué of the Hunt Club. I find also that he is one of the most reckless players. The rumour goes that he keeps the wolf from the door with his winnings at bridge. Bazar for April Copyright, Harper's By Ff. THE STORY—Senator John T. Colborne of Colorado, a strong, virile sailable integrity and patriotism, is appointed Ambassador to one of the courts of Europe. As American of unas- confidential secretary he chooses a young New Yorker. The foreign capital to size up the situation, and, while waiting at the Embassy to see Dalton, the chargé d'affaires, Stan- lau, a prominent but impoverished member of planning with Atkins, the to become for a considerction secretary precedes him to the overhears Comtesse de the court circle, second secretary, the social mentor of the new Ambassadress. Later it develops that Comte de Stanlau—brother and a former ambassador to also has plans regarding the family, and, under cover of the most flattery, Colborne’s aid in his efforts to win the love of Kate, her step- Ambassador enters of the Comtesse, Washington Colborne fulsome secures Mrs. daughter. Soon after the upon his duties, he receives a cablegram from the United States serious international complication between the Government that reveals a two countries in which Comte de Stanlau is in- volved. Mrs. Colborne, who happens to enter the room while the Ambassador, Dalton and the confidential secretary are discussing the situa- tion, picks up the deciphered cablegram and becomes highly incensed when Dalton makes it obvious that he thinks even she should not see the During the that follow the cablegram is forgotten, and a few Dalton and the secretary suspect Mrs. Colborne of having fool- message. uncomfortable moments days later its loss is discovered. ishly given it to Comte de Stanlau. In the mean- secretary proposes to Kate Colborne nothing, however, is to be said time the and is accepted; to the until his Ambassador regarding their engagement anxiety over the cablegram is relieved. When he is dummy he strolls about talking gen- erally, and always in an interesting way. He has been particularly nice to me, always courteous and solicitous, and went so far the other night as to ask if it would amuse me to go with him the next day to one of his estates near town. He was going only for the day; we should be back in time for dinner. I accepted with alacrity. It was a beautiful castle of the eleventh cen- tury, built on the crest of a solitary hill which rose abruptly out of a flat plain. Clustered about the castle and clinging to it for protection—its original purpose—was a small village. Across the flat plain, miles away, was the sea; in the other direc- tion rose a mass of rugged mountains, some of the peaks covered with snow. We entered by a portcullis, crossed a drawbridge swung between massive walls where one could see, in the arches above, the openings through which defenders used to pour boiling oil upon besiegers, and entered a bare, gloomy courtyard. It was in every way a fighting castle. We lunched in a tower-room which Stanlau had fitted up for his own use and made comfortable through an artistic use of old furnishings. The rest of the castle ap- peared quite desolate and gone to ruin. FTER luncheon he excused himself in order to have some consultations with his tenants. - I was left alone for an hour or two, and all the time my thoughts centred about this man. There are few things as interesting as the study of a man who loves the same woman you do. I could hardly keep from laughing at myself as I grudgingly ad- mitted, one by one, Staniau’s attractive qualities. He has so much that a simple American like myself can never have. Most of all he has such an ex- traordinary background. Think of owning a castle which has been in your family since the eleventh century! To a woman of imagination that would appear quite enough attraction for one man to yossess; and Kate, I am beginning to regret, has Imagination. He is unusually well educated; one might say gracefully so. He is familiar with the 56 MATANIA literature of every country. He hasa discriminating taste in art, knows music thoroughly, and yet withal in no way suggests a pedant. Add to this an exceptionally attractive physical appearance that is strongly masculife, and you will have a fairly correct idea of what the Comte de Stanlau is like. Our conversation was animated, yet very_care- fully impersonal. I tried to get him to express his feelings on many subjects; his answers were in- variably what he thought. My failure to get beneath the skin is the same experience I have with all foreigners. Only once did he make a remark which might throw some light on his character, and even that was more a characteristic of race than of individual. We had been discussing an American singer and her success, which we both agreed was due more to her beauty than to her voice. He laughingly said: “‘ Mais, c’est toujours la méme chose, les yeux du monde sont toujours plus intelligenis que les oreilles!- And your American women—how shall I say it?—are such perfect animals!- I hardly think it would be exaggerating to say that every woman, to an European man, is invariably a physical matter.” HERE are several American women _ here married to men who bear the best names and titles of this country. So much has been written on the subject of international marriages that I have wished to obtain a personal opinion on the question. The marriages here appear outwardly successful; and yet recently a woman to whom I had lettérs of introduction, and whom my family had known as a.girl, told me a most amazing story of her life with her husband. Her excuse for narrating it was her hope that the Embassy in some way might assist her in evading the laws of this country. She has been married to a well-known and apparently much liked man for eighteen years. From the be- ginning she has known nothing but unhappiness with him, due principally, I think, to the fact that she loves him and thus suffers through his infi- delities. An extraordinary quality which these European husbands possess is that of retaining the love of their American wives in spite of anything they may do. This woman has two daughters; one twelve, the other sixteen. She tells me her husband lives most of the time with his mistress, whom he has installed in a handsome villa bought with his wife’s money, and that once a week he insists upon taking his daughters there so as to become better acquainted with their half-brothers, his illegitimate sons. When the wife threatened separation, he only laughed and told her that as the children are invariably given to the father he would take them with him to be brought up by his mistress. It seems impossible that any civilized country should have such a brutal law; yet after looking into it I find that the husband’s statement is quite correct. There is nothing for the wretched wife to do but remain with him and protect her daughters as best she can. [ am told that this is not an unusual case, and that many of our friends, who come back home on short visits and impress us with their resonant titles and castellated estates, are hiding very similar family skeletons. The raison d’étre for all this rather gloomy re- counting is purely personal. I went in to tea this afternoon, hoping to find Kate there, and instead found Mrs. Colborne and Comtesse de Stanlau in the libtary. Both of them were enjoying cigarettes after their tea, though the former’s pleasure was somewhat handicapped by the necessity of watch- ing the door for the Ambassador’s entrance. He is-violent on the subject of women smoking. It was plain enough to see—in fact they took no pains to hide it—that I had interrupted a con- fidential talk. Mrs. Colborne languidly poured me a cup of tea; Victoire extended her limp left hand to be kissed, which I didn’t do. The silence re- mained unbroken for quite a while. I suppose they expected me to gulp my tea and run, but they were doomed to disappointment. “Yes—he is a charmeur,” Victoire finally spoke as if she were in the middle of a sentence. Mrs. Colborne is not yet accomplished with her cigarette. She choked a bit before replying: “He is quite the most charming man I ever met. adore the way he looks at one. American men never do it that way.”

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oe es i ee ee ee omtw = oe VY Kate begged my forgiveness and asked me not to Victoire laughed. Her whole attitude was par- ticularly patronizing. ‘American men_haven’t the first idea of how to look at a woman. But my countrymen—ah!” She blew a cloud of smoke before cher and assumed a pose of sensuous exalta- tion. “Their glance burns into one’s soul. We are to them either a Madonna—or a female!’ I would have given anything if the Ambassador had been there; it would surely have been Vic- toire’s last visit. “It is strange,” Victoire continued, evidently determined to ignore my presence and address herself exclusively to Mrs. Colborne, “that your stepdaughter has resisted my dear brother so long. I suppose though it takes a femme experimentée to appreciate him.’ “He will win her in the end,” Mrs. Colborne replied. ‘‘I have noticed a change in her during the past week; haven’t you?” This last was addressed to me. I ignored the question, and, remembering a matter about which I wished the Ambassador to know, moved over to a table to make a memorandum. ““Of course that means only one thing,” Mrs. Colborne went on blandly, “she is making up her mind.’ Again Victoire laughed patronizingly. ‘What a dréle expression—‘making up her mind’! Why should a young girl consider anything if she is in love! You dear, delightful, practical Ameri- The Ambassador and Kate came in at this moment and the atmosphere was, morally at least, Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April at once changed. Kate’s face was flushed and she ap- peared to be excited. Her hand, which I insisted upon shaking, though she tried to avoid it, was icy cold. The Ambassador ordered his customary highball and sat down with a comfortable sigh. He and Kate had ridden out to the Chateau de la” Cascade with Stanlau. “Not much of a waterfall,” he said, ‘“‘after you’ve seen Niagara. In fact I call it a blamed poor show to ride eight miles to see. How was it from the castle, Kitty? Your brother, Countess, insisted on taking Kate up the tower to see the view. Too much of a climb for me. Was it worth it, Kitty?” “It was very beautiful,” she answered quietly. The conversation lagged. No one had anything to say that interested either himself or a listener. Finally Victoire rose to leave. The Ambassador and Mrs. Colborne went with her through the suite of reception-rooms. My chance had come. I turned swiftly to Kate and found, her already standing. Her face was deathly pale; her eyes looked strangely large and glowing. I have never seen such an expression of passionate pleading as was in them. “Don’t—don’t—please don’t say anything! she implored. ‘I have just written you a note. It will explain everything.” I stared at her, my heart still with fear. Before I could speak she had risen swiftly and reached a door. “Kate,” I cried. ‘You can’t leave me this way! She looked at me out of her miserable eyes. 7? 1? fail her “The note I have sent will explain everything.” “But Kate—this isn’t fair!” “T can not help it. I am sorry.” “Are you putting me out of your life forever?” She put up both hands as if to ward off a blow. “‘Please—please go. My note will tell you every- thing.” When I reached my rooms her note was there. It was written in pencil and evidently in a des- perate hurry. “‘T must ask you to release me from my engage- ment to you. We were both mistaken. I have suddenly realized that I do not love you.- Please don’t think I am heartless to write you this way; but it is so much better to be frank and honest. I have only one thing to ask of you—please be my friend still. You can, if you will only forgive me. It will help me so much. I know I am asking a great deal of you, but if you care for me you give me that right. I am going away to-morrow for a little while; when I come back it will be easier for us both.” I tore the note to pieces, threw it in the fire, and, scarcely knowing what I did, watched it flame up and crumble into ashes. So this is the end of my happiness; it is the end too of my experience in diplomacy. I shall go to the Ambassador to-morrow and ask him to release me. I regret leaving him just as he is in the midst of breakers, but I can be of no service here any longer. I haven’t the heart to go on with it. I suppose she has treated Dalton the same way, and many others. (Continued on page go)

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Féte de Vanité given by the Junior Anti. From left to right, standing: Miss Annis Yeomans, Miss Isabel Yeomans, Miss May Yeomans, Miss Katharine Hall, Miss Marjorie Sillcocks, Mrs. Carl Otto Sprague, Miss Elinor W. Kendall, Miss Amy Sloan, Miss Sarah Bulkley, Miss Ruth Hayden; Seated: Miss Madge Lesher, Miss Margaret Warren, Miss Grace Taylor, Miss Loraine All Miss Ethel Zabriskie, Miss Katharine Satterlee Left to right: Miss Katharine Hall and Miss Marjorie Sillcocks as fortune-tellers; Miss Gertrude Murray, Miss Marjorie Wainwright, Miss Loraine Allen (standing), Miss Wadge Lesher and Miss Margaret Warren (sitting) as cigarette Miss Margaret Warrin as “Le Papillon”, and Miss Ruth Hayden as ‘A Summer Day”’. Harper's Bazar f April 58

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Suffrage League at the Plaza Hotel, New York xx From left to right, standing: Miss Helen Barrett, Miss Marjorie Wainwright, Miss Ethel Simmons, Miss Constance Wickersham, Miss Frances Chapin, Miss Anna man, Miss Louise Gilder, Miss Katherine Turck, Miss Lily Robertson, Miss Elsie Comstock, Mrs. Harold Van Tine, Miss Eleanor Halpin; Seated: Miss Faith Hayden, Mi Charlotte Riker, Miss Gladys MacDougall, Miss Margaret Warrin, Miss Rita Sturgis, Miss Geraldine Adee Left to right: Miss Genevieve Clendenin as ‘The Girl of the Saskatchewan”, Miss Elinor Kendall representing “Vanity”, Miss Sarah Bulkley as “The Bird Lover”, and Miss Annis Yeomans and her sister, Miss May Yeomans, as ‘“ Miladi”’. Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April

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Of sTAriece Courtesy of the Gorham Company. has embodied in his conception that feeling for the flesh without which no art can be “Daughter of Pan” (lower left), R. Hinton Perry's best work, received a distinguished setting at the San Francisco Fair and at the National Exhibition in Buffalo. This is a splendid ex- ample of that form of decorative sculpture that is growing so rapidly in favour with American collectors. ‘‘The Idol’’ (lower centre), by Anna Coleman Ladd, is a remarkable exposition of the truest ideal in art, in the fact that it expresses the unseen as well as the seen, and the likeness of the model, Mrs. Morgan Belmont, is so faithfully portrayed. Edith Barretto Parson’s “Turtle Baby” was the great psychological success of American art and one of the two or three Piccirrilli’s “ Flower of the Alps” (upper left), awarded the Widener gold successes at San Franc . The baby expresses the joyousness of the artist over the birth of her ut the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, is an exquisite example of the first child. A statuette in cire (upper right), by Alexandre Zeitlin, is from a series owned by ic naturalistic in sculpture. With all the cold purity of its lines the sculptor Queen Alexandra, and “‘On the Seashore” is the work of a young Polish sculptor, Elie Nadelman. AN AWAKENING IN DECORATIVE SCULPTURE r April

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Of statics

HER BACK TO THE WALL By CONINGSBY DAWSON HE auburn-haired girl was at the piano. Above her head a lamp, the only light in the room, lit up the ivory of her rapid hands. <A study in white and gold, she flamed conspicuously against the dim back- ground of green wall-paper. There was a touch of mystery about her, a sombre passion, a concealed pathos, which hinted at an eager per- sonality clamouring vainly to be expressed. She was -playing her heart out in a storm of sound. That was like Birrel—to be indiscreet in every way save with her mouth. Aline, as she listened, wondered that her husband hadn’t noticed—noticed everything. Perhaps he had. She sat crouched before the fire in a low, deep-seated chair. One foot was tucked under her. You would have had to have looked twice to discover her presence, and then a third time to make certain that she was not a child. She had a child’s knack of cuddling herself up and making herself seem tiny. Her brown-black hair went about her forehead in a swirl, so that some of it tumbled over and drifted in front of her grev eyes. In contrast to Birrel she was mist and dusk— almost disembodied as she sat hemmed in by shadows. No one would have guessed it. She scarcely dared own it to herself. Inch by inch she had re- treated before the truth; she could retreat no farther. Her back was to the wall. Her husband was disappointed in her. The auburn-haired girl broke off abruptly. She Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April

Bian) Te iky Ny realized that she had been saying things in music that ought not to be said—wild hopes, despairs, compassions and desires which transgressed both law and convention. She swung round with jealous generosity and spoke huskily. “Aline, you’re the luckiest kiddy in the world.” Lucky! Aline crouched lower in her chair. Her face, curiously immature in sadness, drooped for- ward over the back of her hand. Across the quiet Birrel surveyed her. “You’re the luckiest kiddy in the world,” she repeated. “D’you know why? Or can’t you guess?” LINE sat very still, like a Greuze portrait of waking girlhood. At last she answered. “I married Dan. You mean that—? Won’t you play something happy now—something French? Not a bit like New York—just little and childish. ‘Sur le Pont d’Avignon’—something like that.” Instead Birrel switched off the lamp and came slowly through the darkness to where the firelight spilt over in a quivering semicircle. She looked very tall, distrustful and alluring. Like most strong women she resented her strength. She hovered above the chair in silence, then knelt, taking the young girl’s hand and pressing it to her mouth. “How soft it is!” she murmured. And then, “Tt must be wonderful to be married to Dan.” She waited for a reply. When none came, she con- tinued: “He never looked at any of us girls. You 61 were the first. And yet—you know, ” Yes, really. we were all in love with him. The smothered laugh told Aline much more than the words. She slipped her arm shyly about the tall girl’s neck. “No one could help loving him,” she whispered. “But you—you’re so beautiful, Birrel. You have such lovely hair. He’s so fond of music, and you— I’ve often wondered.” Birrel turned her face sharply into the darkness. She too had often wondered. “Aline, it isn’t being clever that wins a man. Men flirt with clever per- sons—they don’t marry them. But Dan—he didn’t do even that. He’s too earnest to play at anything that’s serious. He was too busy to give a thought to us girls—too ambitious. And then he went abroad—and met you.” Went abroad and met you! Aline saw the picture. The old grey town of Amboise, its gay piety and the chateau perched above it. Life went up and down its streets with a pleasant humming sound. It was all so different from this New York. And it was there that he had met her, an exiled American girl, already half French. She raised her eyes from looking in the fire and asked a strange question—one which a wife of a year’s standing ought certainly to have been able to answer for herself. “ Birrel, why did he marry me?” A pause, during which one woman searched for the meaning that hid behind the other’s question: “T think,” she said, speaking slowly, ‘because you (Continued on page 124)

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’ ERTE The foremost designer of original fash- tons in the world. Facsimile repro- ductions of Erté’s drawings appear ex- clusively in Har per’s Bazar every month. Vy IW St 2 Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April DESIGN Erté names his pajama costume “Réve Matinal’’, and what roseate dreams the wearer will be sure to enjoy! The culotte and mandarin sleeves of Chinese blue silk are em- broidered in the wonderful blues, oranges, greys and violets peculiar to the Flowery Kingdom, while the square of white crépe de Chine is joined to the sleeves with a lac ing of dull gold cord. (Quite the most in teresting note, perhaps, is the sandals which are cut in one with the culotte and have soles of vari- coloured woven straw. 62 S BY ERTE OF PARIS Tailleurs of Erté’s creation al- ways have that “something differ- ent” which is so hard to attain, and yet are wholly wearable and prac- tical. *“* La Passante”’ is of greenish white cloth with a Russian blouse of steel grey satin. To make cuffs on the bell-shaped sleeves and deep pockets, Erté cleverly folded back the cloth and buttoned on a lattice work of mauve silk worsted for trimming. Even the fastening of the coat is of the worsted. A_ steel-coloured cord defines the waist and mauve silk embroidery finishes all edges. “Elle s’en va” says Erté, and he sends her forth clad in a tailleur of black satin. And a distinctive tailleur it is! After facing the collar, jacket, sleeves, overdrapery and skirt with white cloth and embroider- ing it lightly on the edges with cerise silks, he slashes the overdrapery and folds up the material to form pockets, and turns back all facings for trim- ming. Buttons of white cloth fasten the facings. The whole idea is simplicity itself, and the result is an original ensemble that almost any woman could wear.

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a perma r ereeessem rere guerre ei Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April DESIGNS 63 BY ERTE OF The self-satisfaction en- gendered by the possession of so charming a creation as Enté’s time”’ would make even the ““Causerie In- most malicious woman char ttable. For the skirt and sleeves marron satin em broidered with silks in white, old rose and beige is used, while the tunic is white cloth. PARIS Erté’s poster dress of China rose and black ribbon is the last word in ingen- uity. Above the hip-line the black ribbons become tulle, and the corsage is en- tirely of the black tulle wound from back to front and finished with a large bow at the throat. Rese rib- bon belt. Erté had in mind the jeune fille when he designed this tailleur—‘‘Dans_ la Foule”’—of beige cloth faced with tricot de sote. The jacket is cleverly closed by a ribbon of beige peau de chamois laced through flaps and buttoned in _ place, Square cuffs are slit for the hands.

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Copyright, 1917, Erté christens the entrancing evening gown at the left *‘ Musique Passionné’’— an amusing name, but then everything Erté does is en- tertaining. One would probably say the gown was dark green satin, though the facing of grey and gold brocade is quite as cons pic uous. Shoulder-straps, girdle and tassels are gold. Harper's Bazar for April DESIGNS 64 BY ERTE OF PARTS The classic lines and decorative molif of this sumptuous evening gown suggested the Sybarite to Erté, so he attached the significant name “‘Evohe, Bacchus!’ The skirt is of citron chiffon lightly embroidered with silver, and the artistic train of blue chiffon embroidered in silver stripes, golden vines and grapes of uncut jet.

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DESIGNS BY not be, yet make it have a raison d‘étre is an art exclusive to Erté. And in “On Dit”, a frock of chamois-coloured satin lined with blue satin, he cuts a bodice, scarf in one with the twists it about the arm and knots it in a bow in the most noncha lant manner. Motifs embroider ed in orange, blue and grey silks. ERTE OF PARES Take white linen, bluish lav- ender linen and soutache braids of the same colours, add a touch of genius in their manipulation, and behold Erté’s smart sports suit for shore or country! The white braid is applied on thi bluish lavender braid on the white, and the white tied with the colour coloured linen and the tassels are Cut banana-coloured cloth on the most unique lines imagin- able, bind all edges with violet add a ropelike girdle of braided yarn laced with violet will have a replica of Erté’s “Vous Plait elle?” Th more than a band of material salin, ribbon, and you sleeves are nothing cut in one with the corsage and twisted about the arms.

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Cablegram from Harper’s Bazar’s Special Har per’s Bazar, New York: Caillot collection the largest and most extravagant in history of house. Gone back to days of narrow skirts and long trains for evening gowns. The short evening gowns are like ecclesiastical robes, hung loose over tight lining, heavily em- broidered in Oriental colours and Egyptian jewels. Day dresses are mostly one piece, com posed of plain materials in Serge, satin or pongee; these gowns not only brilliant in colour, but embroidered to ef- fect a Roumanian feeling, with an oc- casional one for handsomer sear em- Correspondent Copyright, 1017, Harper's Bazar for April lected by Peggy for a very chic suéde band holds in the fulness at the hem and sucde also trims the coat. yee 4 <a) Wis PEGGY

LACROIX Beige tricoline was se- Slip-on cocts are pop- ular these days and so are draped skirts. La- croix puts these newest tailleur. <A notes into an green velours suit. E PARIS broidered in Far Eastern colours. Formal day dresses made of satins embroidered, with profusion of laces introduced. Quan- tities of Chinese red and jade greens, lapis blue and mandarin colours are prev- alent in embroideries. Wraps all soft, many of them being taken from Italian military shapes. Plaited skirts are fre- quent, with Roumanian vest and jacket of same length. For morning wear Chéruit shows one- piece dresses in pongee or tussor, and foulards in both small and Persian pat- terns; many trimmed with linen bands on skirt and waist. The few coats and skirts for morning wear are in sober colours, 66 Grey is one of the smartest this velours de laine makes emerald one liked suits. OPENINGS

JENNY colours, and plaided shade in of Jenny’s best- coats being short. worn with these suits. Dressy afternoon and evening gowns taken from Middle Ages, and great many laces in both white and black, as well as gold and silver, are introduced. Colour schemes in many woolen and satin day dresses are en- livened with red. Jenny shows usual straight lines in her day dresses; 1s using many serges and plain materials. Long tunics made of organdies in all colours used with these dresses are dominant feature. Evening dresses have narrow draped skirts. Cloth of silver and gold in plain and brocades used by her. Bright-coloured waists

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% j / Z a i j y { ’ , 4 | i) ' \ $f { \ pi 4 | i g .) . 4 i \

Handa Vly,

tery JY i ] ey 4 4 i | 4 \ i ‘ . 3 } \ x { \ 4 + { / a an é \ t ‘ r i | \ \ © £ { \ \\ 7 \\ { = 5 \4 y 4 \ - \ \ 1 1 \ \ - i \ CHERUIT 4 \ ‘ \ \ i 4 ; Tre, \ he = the charm of cn evening gown ; Rr developed in grey chiffon, silver - &\F embroidery and flounces of grey f Jilet lace? Doucet evening dresses show a feeling taken from Velasquez pictures. Quantities of laces predominate in afternoon dresses and toloured organdies embroidered by hand. Very few coats and skirts; those shown are without much change. One- plece dresses prevalent for morning wear. Paquin has decided Chinese feeling throughout collection. Day dresses are embroidered with Oriental designs, many of which have tunics taken from Chinese coats. Her evening wraps are drawn trom the same sources, as also her more important evening gowns. Entire scheme lightened up with profusion of laces, and the brightest colours complete general ef- fect. Deoeuillet, Bulloz and Lanvin have inklings throughout their collections of Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April ‘ie Chéruit always turns out ap- pealing frocks

Many nomenennna — Lucie Hamar has de- signed a charming hat entirely of flowered rib- bon in shades of rose and blue. The crown puffs out of a narrow brim that fits the head closely. who could resist CHANEL this Chinese colour scheme; this is all that shows an effort toward anything nev. Other houses of equal importance have worked along same lines. Paris fashion houses in general is to make a brilliant collection, introducing all the colours of Orient; would call it a season 67 The object of

ALOrRT wrNOniM “Wane = ar Wale CSPOIERS <By - s = uh - schemes,

y) i fashions. coloured hats, flowers match. LUCIE of artistic rivalry in . colour rather special attempt to revolutionize Same can be said of all the milliners, latter are trying to introduce

HAMAR Chanel has used silk

cashmere of the new Eastern red for an ex guisile costume. The basque-blouse is em- broidered in India col ours and gold and silver threads. To wear with this is a Chanel kat with oddly shaped brim and paradise fancy. than any and veils to

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v, trotteurs lume of couturier. Luck substitute Gabriel the extremely long line in her over a narrow skirt of old blue Kasha, is characteristic of this Chéruit Jersey lor Im €Xxce sports sutl that aceenT wreowam ws CHANEL le Chanel advocates A basque-blouse cos figured Kasha, worn Hamar has created a \ chrysanthemum hat that is a wonderful riot of colour (upper centre). Hundreds of loops of narrow velvet ribbon in every shade of red make an admirabl for the genuine flower. HANEL IS HE foregoing cablegram terse- ly expresses the complexion of the fashion openings in Paris. It will be interesting to watch the reception accorded the new fashions by the Paris mon- daines. Every woman of France knows full well that the openings are not for her; having no heart for clothes save as matters of necessity, she, who before the war squandered time and money on her wardrobe, to-day wears the same little dress until it is really shabby. Many of the young noblewomen and _ other smart matrons, noted formerly for their beautiful gowns and lavish ex- penditures, have solved the dress problem to their satisfaction by leav- ing orders with their favourite cou- turier to send them one new frock every month. These dresses are of some dark or neutral shade of serge, satin or Jersey, the choice of fabric depending entirely on the purpose of CHERUIT

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i ® ia | 6 * Y “ne ¥ | CHANEL the gown, whether it is for the morning relief work, the sedate tea hour at the Ritz or for evening. There is practically no distinction between cos- tumes now designed for these various occasions, save in the fabric and in the amount of hand em- broidery utilized. No Frenchwoman, with money enough to pay for it, objects to the most lavish use of embroidery on her frocks, for it is by such work Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April aut, nr ‘ Baym 1 ‘ ahi | i \ PREMET / De \| 4" that the little sewing girls are housed and fed. So alike, in fact, are her little dresses in their simplicity of line that the mondaine might be said to-day to be wearing a uniform. This attitude is largely psychological; it seems as impossible for a French lady to squander money on clothes and to deck herself in finery as it is for her to wear white gloves. Since the first days of the war not a white C9 Chanel reveals the Chinese influence in a little dress of old blue shantung embroi- dered with red and gold thread (left). Hip drapery, unusual embroidery and a tasseled WY, collar distinguish a gown of Y Yy grey serge designed by Premet (centre). \ : Vi, Lanvin’s evening wraps 7 . { hh 4 were never lovelier. A coat 7 ; ; j / of blue satin, built on vol- uminous lines, has sump- | / tuous collar and cuffs of L Paisley brocade embroi- 4 dered with gold threads log (right). LANVIN tA glove has been worn by women of position or sold in the best shops of Paris. No one attempts to explain why, except to say, with a puzzled ex- pression, “It simply isn’t done.” Naturally enough this atmosphere of simplicity and abstemiousness had a potent effect on the couturiers who once again put forth their efforts to supply American customers.

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Harper's Basar for April Lucie Hamar strikes a mannish note in a Panama hat trimmed with a wreath of plaited LANVIN grass-green ribbon. Lanvin makes a de- lectable tailleur of black satin with cuffs, and collar of white satin. undercoat, Again Lanvin — a sports cape of dark blue serge with distinctive collar and a red lacquer walking-stick run through a little grey bag. lined velours in Tan velours with plaid wo shades of tan makes an interesting coat bear- ing the name of Paquin. The astonishing scarcity of the American wo- man’s standby, the tailored suit, was due primarily to the lack of woolen fabrics—a silk tailleur never satisfactorily takes the place of the light-weight cloth, serge or cashmere—and incidentally to the fact that the day dress has caught on like wild-fire over here. Undoubtedly Deeuillet, Paquin and Chéruit have the most interesting group of two- piece tailleurs. Deeuillet features narrow skirts and jackets having a military flavour, and Paquin’s waistcoat and Chéruit’s short-length coats are the 70 sisters. LANVIN novelties with these two couturiéres. Jenny’s straight little serge and taffeta dresses with their organdie tunics are both astonishing and interest- ing. On many of her gowns false hems, bands and sleeves of white or coloured organdie are used. This novel fabric combination has already been accepted by the Parisians, for it is directly in line with their desire for simplicity. At all the leading houses, the Chinese and Roumanian effects in embroidery vie for first place. A charming model shown by Callot Sceurs is a one- piece dress of dark blue serge, the front and back of which is covered with a striking design in gold thread, copied exactly from a rare old Chinese rug belonging to Madame Gerber, one of the Callot The sleeves of this gown are long and close-fitting, and have little turn-back cuffs of the embroidery. The great increase in the use of laces marks an interesting development. It seems that France, when war broke out, had huge quantities of lace in reserve, and added to this stock are the quantities since made by women who have no other means of earning livelihoods. As the couturiers always work in harmony with the manufacturers, laces are now being exploited everywhere. Many of Paquin’s one-piece dresses for formal wear have Dutch

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aprons of real point de Venise, tunics of exquisite grey filet embroidered with silver floss, or skirts composed of double flounces of Chantilly lace. A charming little summer gown of rose cotton boasts an apron of the material covered with conventionalized pansies in rose floss, a three-inch band of this embroidery finishes the bottom of the skirt, and nar- rower effects are used on the bodice and sleeves. The skirts of the Chéruit evening and dinner gowns in- variably show draped or looped effects at the hips, with pro- nouncedly flat backs and fronts. On their tailleurs there is a great deal of soutache braid- CALLOT An apple-green tea-coat with huge pockets, a cream net and silver petticoat slip, and here is the robe intime as designed by a Paris couturier and worn by a charming French marquise (left). Created by Callot is a sumptuous evening gown of gold and silver brocade showing the long pointed train and sloping waist-line Jea- tured in their recent opening (centre). Grey filet lace, embroidered with grey floss and built on a foundation of grey chiffon, is a Callot offering. Longe chiffon sleeves and low décolleté (right). CALLOT piece dresses, whether of serge, silk or cotton stuffs, are fairly weighted down with hand embroidery. A striking feature of their lingerie or essentially summer frocks is the knee-length blouse, an elabor- ation of the peplumed blouse of the winter. These basque-blouses, as they are called, have made a great hit among those smart women who still frequent the Riviera. Chéruit decrees longer and narrower skirts for all costumes. Each season one couturier forges ahead of his competitors in popularity. This year the name of Gabrielle Chanel is on the lips of every buyer. Her cos- tumes certainly made a big impression on the Americans, al- though Paris _ still swears by its famil- iar gods. Chanel last year did more ing, and their informal one- OS ~ I " (Cont'd on page 138) Copyright, 1917, Harper's Basar for April

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/ The in See os, Pecee secs / — The new silhouette in its most extreme development is shown in this evening costume of irlet chiffon velvet and sequins in shades of red Layers and folds of American heauty chiffon and satin are arranged in a tea- gown that bears the hall-mark Lucile The odd wristlets and head-dress are in cunningly ribbon harmony ind still we have the bouf fant dancing dress! The tight- jitting bodice and flower-trim- med skirt are suggestive of the picturesque Watteau period. Last Fashions (Lucile) Word UFF GORDON aan New York, March, 1QI7. Dear Mr. Editor: HEN I tell you, in reply to your earnest request for fashion talk, that I do not know anything about fash- ions in the ordinary acceptance of the term, you will not believe me I sup- pose, but it’s true. If I write about fashions, I can merely speak to you of the frocks and coats and gowns that I am at this moment evolving So here I am making Arab coats, and coats w and coats with perfectly straight lines lik goes ith a flare; a be 5 "S I am making little short coats with a wide sash tying at the back, and Chinese sacques and Russian blouse effects. I am making a “trench coat” copied from a coat that went through the battle of the Somme; mine is exactly stitch for stitch and buckle for buckle like the original, only in soft blue cloth lined with a dear old French cretonne. I am mak- ing coats with the geste of an Indian rajah; coats for young and old, thin and fat; coats with a Hono- lulu twirl, and long kimono swirl, . . . . You say “and skirts”? Oh, skirts—well, I am making them wide and narrow, draped and plaited, long and short; some fu!l around the feet and some so narrow that I suppose the big firm who has named its skirt “barrel” would call this narrow skirt of mine “hobble” to be quite original. And I am making the trouser effect too. All of these different styles I am making to go with my coats of various nationalities, and for every type of woman under the sun that shines on your great country. You want to know what the “barrel” skirt is? Well—I don’t know. You have seen it adver- tised a great deal by one large firm? Perhaps you have. I have not seen this particular

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yright, Harper's Bazar Crey organdie, black and silver brocaded silk and grey fox fur are combined in a midsummer costume that retains the hoop effect in the skirt. The long cuffs of the brocade are removable. Flowered silk in shades of flesh pink and Alice blue makes a quaint afternoon Jrock for the young girl. The cape is worn over a blouse of white organdie. Lucile can do wonders with chiffon and tulle. For a dinner dress she uses several shades of blue tulle over a foundation of chiffon and achieves unusual pan- niers. 73 kind of skirt, but the name “barrel” suggests to me quite the ugliest and most ungraceful outline. I should apply the word barrel to the outline of a woman only when I wanted to be thoroughly dis- agreeable and let her know that I thought her a “bundly”, ugly thing. I can not imagine any firm choosing such a hideous, suggestive name when advertizing their wares. I am making practical tailor-made skirts, short and two yards wide; and coats of purely, masculine simplicity for sport suits. | No fancy-work there, no odds and ends and bits anywhere. I am making afternoon gowns with trailing draperies for women who wish to be dignified and alluring, and who go to garden-parties or fétes in beautiful houses. Trains they used to call them in my young days. And, by the way, Mr. Editor, here I wish to tell you that the other day after great persuasion I induced a matron to have a trailing skirt, as being most suitable and dignified to her age and position. To my despair I heard afterwards that during all the three hours of her féte she held up her beautiful draperies in her hand in a most ungraceful way, ‘“‘ because she was afraid of getting them soiled!” What a reflection on the cleanliness of her home! It would not have been so bad if she had said that, having worn short, giddy skirts for so long, she nearly fell over her clinging draperies—and that I suspect was the truth. Oh, Mr. Editor, have you ever noted the con- summate art there is in the way some women manage a long train? Well, these are the few for whom I have made long trailing, swirling skirts. I have made short and fluffy ones for young and (Continued on page 132

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ITH the passing of winter, woman devotes herself whole-heartedly to the getting together of a wardrobe that will rival the garb of nature herself This year a touch of de- mureness, more than a hint of sim- plicity, is apparent in all the day costumes. And the gowns for evening will be of two types, either the distinctly fluffy or distinctly classic. There are at this season few eccentricities in design, and none at all in the silhouette. These may come later with the hot weather months, but April, May and June, although frivolous, will not be freakish. The tendency, especially among New York wom- en, to be individual in clothes, and to suit their clothes to their surroundings, increases constantly. 7, Harper's Basar for April The Cult of the Beautiful By A hat whose wide brim turns skyward at one side is decidedly of the picture variety, when developed in fine black crin and trimmed with ostrich-feather edging. The smartest thing in parasols is an embroidered silk affair on a flat frame. A scarlet rose, a slip of exquisitely embroidered mull, a tea-coat of unlined scarlet chiffon, and behold a cos- tume all the more fascinating because of its simplicity! {lthough perhaps meant to be the girdle, the simple band of Persian ribbon makes the bodice of an extremely effective dancing frock. Chiffon in shades of green fashions the skirt. 74 More and more the woman who knows her good points and how to play them up is choosing her own fashions. Many of the smart young matrons are clinging to the short full skirt for dancing, in spite of fashion’s decrees that such a skirt is out. There is nothing more effective on the ballroom floor than the fluffy tulle skirt. The wonderful use made of the lovely flowered chiffons is one of the remarkable phases of the present fashion situation. Although originally a most fragile material suitable only for evening wear, we are making morning frocks for town and beach wear of it. And very lovely and wearable they are. Not only in Paris, but in this country, great strides are being made toward creating fabrics that are beautiful and thoroughly wearable, rather than — ‘NY \ TF

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An embroidered batiste frock has no intention of looking like the popular chemise robe, in spite of its silk cord and tassel. The waist- line is noticeably trim.

An evening frock of hand-painted chiffon ) may have its train clear the floor with as much insouciance as its skirt. Several shades of rose make the colour scheme., To have no sleeves and the neck of its bodice cut high in the back and low in front is the fate of a dinner dress of gold-embroidered chiffon right). eccentric. The Chinese and Japanese motifs are particularly attractive and make the most fetching frocks imaginable. Because of the elaborate de- signs of the fabric, the gowns themselves are as a rule extremely simple in treatment and detail. Practically no trimming is used, for why detract from the charm of the gossamer-like fabric? A straight, gathered skirt measuring not more than three yards at the hem, and frequently much less, bearing nothing but a deep hem, a kimono bodice with one of the novel neck finishings, or a fine batiste collar and cuffs delicately embroidered and edged with real Valenciennes, and here is one of our “best sellers’. Chemise dresses with coats to match made of (Continued on page 136) pyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April

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Tailleurs for Summer By HICKSON HE return of the narrow skirt is the one big feature of the spring and summer fashion. Women are welcoming the new models just as eagerly as they welcomed the excessively full skirts. I am perfec tly safe in stating, however, that the present narrow skirt will not degenerate into the ugly hobble that ruined the silhouette and made walking a travesty four short years ago. The accepted width for the present tailored skirt is seventy-two inches, al though we are making many that measure sixty inches and as many that are three yards in width. In the designs shown this month, the three widths of skirts are exemplified. The Dundreary tailleur of black and white check boasts a skirt measuring two yards, the blue serge coat-dress with its cuft hem measures sixty inches, and the short. skirt worn with the cape-coat is full three yards at the The coat of the Dundreary tailleur of black and while checked Treco supplies the peg-top or tulip- hip which is making headway this Spring. The skirt is necessarily plain and has very straight lines. A novel adaptation of the new barrel skirt is the distinguishing feature of a coat-dress of blue serge. The buttons from neck to heels and the criss-cross belt add novelty to the design. Blue serge lined with blue and white plaid taffeta ts used for one of the latest sports capes. The skirt is also of the serge, for this cape is part of a costume and not an extra wrap. hem. These three models are equally good in line and detail, and can be adapted to practically all figures. The coat-dress, with its hip drapery, should not be worn by the woman who is short or at all inclined to stoutness. Details such as collars, cuffs, linings and belts were never so interesting as this spring. We devote as much time and thought to these little touches as to the line of the skirt and the development of the coat. Generally speaking, we endeavour to make all lines, whether of skirt, cuffs or collars. sharp, long and clear cut. On the Dundreary coat, for example, the mannish collar and lapels have these desired characteristics, and the drapery which gives the new tulip silhouette is also sharply accentuated. A tailleur of this description may have one of the new long waistcoats, but preference is given the softly plaited blouse of handkerchief | SC OEIIS “PNG ED a teeen, cor YRGHTEO BY } | 4 Ba ae, rw whe S&S

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Yo San in one of its most effective colourings, blue and green, is used for a formal tailleur for in-town or summer traveling wear. The lining of rose crépe makes the collar, cuffs and lapels. Blue and white spotted foulard is combined with plain blue foulard in a costume suitable for summer afternoons in town or at the country club. The lining of vivid orange is effective. linen with a mannish stock and black bow. There are no cuffs on the long tight-fitting sleeves; cuffs would be at variance with a collar of this design. Capes, already so popular for evening, are the last word for sports wear. Introduced at Palm Beach, they made an instantaneous hit, and I predict an enormous success for them. Of course they failed lamentably when introduced two or three seasons back, but several important changes have been made in length, line and shape. The American woman, with her tall, slender figure, should be able to wear this garment with inimitable effect, but there is no denying that up to the present moment the trim well-fitting tailleur has wider appeal. I can see, however, a future for the newest form of cape—with its collared front belted in—on the beach, the country club grounds, and perhaps as a cover-all when motoring. j | / ID A redingote effect is achieved through the clever use of drapery in this gown of silver-grey taffeta Hickson has added a cunning stock and yoke of white organdie to this costume. There is, as usual, a demand for the more or less dressy costume of soft silk. The foulards, taffetas and the new Yo San are decidedly in public favour for summer tailleurs. No one will go far wrong who chooses either or all of these fabrics, or who selects one of the three silk models displayed on this page. The traveling suit of blue Yo San, striped with two shades of soft green, is just the thing for the summer train trip. For boat travel a light-weight wool fabric, such as the Dundreary is made of, is infinitely better. But silk sheds coal dust so delightfully that the smart woman invar iably chooses it whenever possible. Whenever linings are used, a brilliant contrast is the one thing to be achieved; if the lining is figured, the figures must be large and preferably eccentric. Large-sized checks and plaids and conventionalized flowers are always good.

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HARPER’S BAZAR SUGGESTIONS Drawn by Carol Curry Patterns for these designs, cut in regular stock sizes, may be secured from Harper’s Bazar, Pattern Department, 119 West goth Street, New York, at a cost of one dollar a cos- tume, or fifty cents for either skirt or waist. Beige Jersey cloth has been combined with checked velours in a smart tailleur. The skirt is plaited in order to give the narrow effect that Paris approves. URCHASING the summer wardrobe is the most diverting of all shopping. It is possible to order so many things with- out running up the bills too exorbitantly, and one can indulge one’s fancy in colours and models without giving thought to their usefulness and lasting qualities. Incidentally there are so many fascinating things to buy that it is ever so hard to know just where to begin. Little handkerchief linen or batiste frocks in solid colours are extremely pop- ular, and are quite charming in their dainty simplicity. For the cost of a few yards of material and a bit of dressmaker’s assistance, a woman who is fond of needle- work can make exquisite little dresses similar to those for which she would have to pay a flabbergasting price in a specialty shop. Do you remember how several years ago every one had coloured slips to liven up her organdie frock? Well, they have returned to fashion again, though in a new form of course. Slips of linen or batiste are cut from the same piece of material as the dress itself, giving deeper colour to the frock. None of the slips I have seen are lace trimmed, but depend for ornamentation on tucks, self-cordings and frillings. Nearly every dressy blouse you see is trimmed with filet lace, unless it happens to be a sheer affair with inch-wide frills picoted and fluted. Many of the simpler waists of white handkerchief linen have frills down the front; these frills and the collars and cuffs are bound with quarter-inch folds of coloured handkerchief linen. It is essential that these folds be put on by hand, otherwise the entire charm is lost. he styles in sports skirts remain about the same and depend for originality on the shape of their pockets, and some pockets are so large that quite unconsciously the new extended hip-line is achieved. One hears so much about barrel, peg- topped skirts and the like that it is positively confusing, and in getting new frocks one hardly knows what kind of skirt will really be worn. It seems that fulness at the hips, achieved by drapery or pockets, Is seen On many of the new skirts. All Grey Yo San is com- bined with white batiste and embroidered in con- WN) NY SS hy) 1) ventionalized jonquils and cs \ KV cross-slitches in various colours. An elastic draws in the bottom of the skirt. WAY) A) \ i \ \ RUN ‘ N \ \ \ & Ny \( Soutache braid, used on if AY QW many of the newest frocks, has been utilized to ad- vantage on a graceful blue NNW \ q ) i (ti cent \\ N \ Georgette. Darned em- \ er broidery in blue and pur- ple ornaments the blouse. For the summer ward- robe is a frock of plain and printed linen. The delt and pockets are of plain linen embroidered to match the design of the printed linen. ( yright, 1017, Harper's Basar for April 78 t ; { i

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HARPER’S BAZAR SUGGESTIONS Patterns for these designs, cut in stock sizes, may be secured from Harper’s Bazar, Pattern Department, 119 West goth Street, New York, at a cost of one dollar a cos- tume, or fifty cents for either skirt or waist. ) : A smart little frock of most becoming to the ie absinthe crépe de Chine individual, and this may } : ci : be ankle-length or from ith has a modified barrel f a ee 2 : our to six inches from ! ut skirt, The collar and the floor. As for the { is cuffs are white mousseline, width, two yards is a ; ine and the vest is embroi- happy average. iy ris dered in dullblue and gold. As sports clothes are iy now worn throughout Many of the dresses this the long summer day, | m- season have finely plaited people must have quan- | te skirts. In this garden tities of them, and when | n- frock pale pink organdie not actually used for | nd combined with pink dotted the various sports, such REDE Ee costumes may be built of most elaborate US organdie is finished with a faliste Ailes the ct la * ty” = praripiabiinge toy fabrics, providing the cut is “sporty”. wi ! rhere are innumerable materials espe- rt. : : cially manufactured for dressy sports Very chic are the two- wear, but perhaps the most popular are H on piece suits consisting of Yo San, Khaki Kool and sports satin. eS, chemise dress and jacket. Yo San is related to the shantung family, d- This model developed in Khaki Kool a cousin of the tussors, but ue black satin and white the up-to-date materials are soft, consequently I meet obstacles in tracing the genealogy ! m- cloth is both striking and this style is very graceful and not so bulky as it of sports satin. This _last material 1 ir- distinguished looking. sounds. Other skirts bulge at the knees and are comes in the most exquisite shades and has a wonderful satiny sheen; it is heavy and non-crushable and gives the im- pression of being somewhat wiry, but in reality it is most delightfully pliable and very easy of construction, as there may be simply Very charming is a a dart in the hem of the skirt, a few stitched plaits, d- Se ; ss or perhaps the upper part of the skirt slightly fulled summer frock of white : : r : ; into a wide band at the hem. No two women ever 7 . “ a —_ — sie discuss the subject of clothes | without arguing as soft. Lovely skirts to be worn with silk i oidery. The velvet sash to the length and width of skirts. Each one may sweaters, or entire suits for that matter, a matches the orange on the be right in her way, for dressmakers vary some- are being made from this satin. Yo San ed hat, which is the last word what in their advice; but quoting the most author- comes in alluring shades with half-inch he in hat trimmings. itative sources, the best length is that which is stripes in colour combinations that you Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April

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would never have thought of. Plain Yo San can be bought to match the background of each piece of striped silk, so that the possibilities of this fabric are unbounded. here are many new designs and colourings in this season’s output of Khaki Kool, some of the loveliest of which introduce yellows; and by the way yellow, orange and the like are quite the most popular shades at present, though green can not be ignored, and as for rose, the public will always make it popular. Then Jersey cloth in either silk or wool is used a lot, and very smart it is when braided or embroidered in worsted, gold or silver. But for actual sports themselves, one needs tub things. For camping and other hard wear Silver- bloom is excellent; this is a mohair material, does not muss, is durable, launders perfectly, and is guaranteed not to shrink or fade. Gingham is quite the thing for tub frocks, and is very attractive when made up into a hat, parasol and girdle to go with a white linen shirtwaist dress. This three-piece fad continues, and many girls are finding lots of diversion in exerting their originality and skill in making sets for themselves. The prices asked for such things in the shops are horrible, while if “home-made” they cost hardly anything. The umbrella shops mount a parasol at a very nominal cost. Worsted embroidery for such things is excellent in more ways than one; it is smart, effective and works up quickly. Another hint for girls who want to make something and are tired of knitting sweaters—heaven knows they ought to be tired of them by this time, considering the rate their needles have clicked for the last two or three

HARPER'S BAZAR SUGGESTIONS Patterns for these designs, cut in stock sizes, may be secured from Harper’s Bazar, Pattern Department, 119 West goth Street, New York, at a cost of one dollar a cos- tume, or fifty cents for either skirt or waist. Of oyster-white and dotted Khaki Kool is a youthful one-piece dress. The bodice is embroidered in col- oured silks that match the variegcted spots on the collar. For the first warm spring days is a trotteur frock of navy serge with girdle of Oriental embroidery. The organdie guimde can be readily re- moved for a visit to the blanchis S€USE Narrow frills and cording trim the daintiest of this season’s hand- made organdie frocks. The panel front may be of filet lace, embroi dery, or cbsolutely plain. 380 AYP OF oa * 2 < PQ\é ay

years!—are the covered rings in which to keep these very sweaters. The large covered embroidery hoops are excellent, for the sweater can be hung through them and thus be kept from stretching; but perhaps their greatest attraction is in their novelty. But to digress from fashions in clothes—the way in which the veranda may be ‘dressed up” this summer is delightful. And there is no reason on earth why this bit of outdoors should not be pretty, for so much time is spent there and so many peo- ple see it. Painting porch furniture is one of my greatest joys, for I can splash away to my heart’s content and turn out the old chairs and tables and things in such gay attire that they are the envy of all who behold them. There is a shade of blue that is lovely for the porch. ‘‘ Ladder blue” I call it in my search for a name, for if you observe ladders, just the every-day kind, they are always painted this shade. But even in exterior decora- tion, colours must be softened, and any “uphol- stery” must be of other colouring. Natural crash is a good foundation for the covering for the swing and chair-backs. Black stenciling is effective on the crash, though a black and écru checked chintz with a pink rosebud in it is adorable, and with a band of this material at the top and bottom or down the sides of the crash chair-backs and a bit of furniture braid, you will get a very effective result. Cover the floor with a black and white grass rug, and pile the swing with pillows; let some of them be of crash with trimmings of black and écru braid, but be sure to introduce fat pink ones; gingham, either plain or checked, is lovely.

4

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A) T Bb S C } HARPER’S Patterns for these designs, cut in regular k sizes, may be secured from Harper’s sur, Pattern Department, 119 West goth eel, New York, at a cost of one dollar a costume, or fifty cents for either shirt or waist. Moyen dge lines are stiil popular and work out to advantage in an evening frock of grey The artistic ], and silver. tulle scarf is becoming ly draped and fastened by d nosegay. pyright, 1917, Harper's Chiffon in shades of yellow—one of the smart colours —makes a charm- ing dance frock. Silver embroidery accords with the silver amber beads dangle on cirdle, and skirt and sleeves. Bazar for April BAZAR Kelly green is fash- ionable, and is lovely when combined with sil ver. The skirt with its suggestion of the barrel is of brocade, while the panel is and the scarf malines. silver tissue So simple that its construction offers no difficulties even to the amateur is a pale coral-coloured tea-gown with the narrow skirt and tea-coat ‘embroidered cural beads. SUGGESTIONS There is a more elaborate idea for the veranda that because of its very loveli ness might prove a nuisance, for I an sure one’s friends would come a-visiting again and again, just for the privilege of sitting on the adorable furniture. The cheapest, most inexpensive wooden chairs and tables may be so treated that they will acquire an appearance of great affluence; paint them navy blue and stencil with clustres of flowers in nat ural colours, daisies, buttercups and poppies—is not the idea delightful? Then have the country carpenter ham- mer.together a swing and a tea-wagon; these will paint easily because of their simple “mission” lines. Scatter cushions about and let some be yellow and others in the various poppy shades. By all means indulge yourself in a kettle-screen for the tea-wagon—it should be of tin, painted to match everything else, and so of course should be the tea, flower and ash trays. A veranda “dressed up” in this charming fashion will receive added glory from its setting of green shrubbery and borders well filled with flowers in gay array. Then too there will be bowls of cut flowers, and perhaps a decorative parrot swing or two, and a young aquar- ium for good measure.

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AMOREWS-LA FREE Very striking is Ferle Heller’s hat of black lace edged with straw (upper left). The shape is especially smart and the paradise trimming effective. Delightfully piquant is the Lanvin hat of black var- nished Liséré that Gidding imported (centre). The rosettes and chin-strap are black satin, the latter faced with shell-pink. Quite fascinating is a transparent picture hat de- signed by Bruck Weiss (upper right). There are two brims edged with silver cord, and conventional velvet poppies in tan, blue and rose are sewed flat to the crown. Streamers of Nattier blue ribbon. Chamoisine is one of the newest materials of the season, and Tuszoli has selected it in beige colour for an exceedingly smart tailleur (lower left). One of the loveliest lingerie frocks shown this season is a hand-made model by Faibisy (lower right). The hat from Ogilvie of absinthe crin has the crown com- pletely covered with acacia blossoms. ALONG FIFTH AVENUE With the GADABOUT Har per’s Bazar’s Shopping Service can rec- ommend the merchandise illustrated on these pages. As values fluctuate, Harper’s Bazar will quote prices upon application and have articles held a reasonable length of time for readers. Harper’s Bazar’s experienced buyers may be depended upon to select and buy for you at the lowest price obtainable anything required, whether or not it is shown in this magazine. HE Avenue, when attired in April garb, breathes such a happy atmosphere that optimism fairly radiates. How on earth could one be gloomy when there is so much cheer on every side! The flags, as they flutter everywhere, are wonderful. They impart an air of festivity, even though one realizes the serious import of their display. Many of the residences, as well as the shops, have sunny jonquils and pansies blooming about. At first these cocky little flowers hold their heads up with conscious pride in recognition of their impressive environ- ment, but after a few days the; assume a “don’t care” attitude, for -vhat is to be gained by tracing one’s ancestry back to Babylonian garden days when plebeian upstarts flaunt their artificial blossoms on milady’s “new spring hat”! But ob- scure lineage always crops out, you know, and these parvenus hate April showers—hence the new rain parasols. At the first sign of a cloud up pop the purple, blue and green splashes of colour on their short sticks, which by the way are characteristic of these new “necessities”

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no “/9 ALONG FIFTH AVENUE CENTRAL AHS Miss Goodrich of Boston watching ANOREWS-LA FELL INTE RwATIONAL Mrs. Frank Ilenderson of New York the bathers at Coronado Beach. snapped on the sands at Paim Beach. Some of the plaid handkerchiefs made by the British Government for the soldiers missed their vocation and made the kilted skirt of the Wanamaker suit. Coat and hat of green linen. Ilarper’s Bazar will purchase anything for you that you may wish. Experienced buyers are at your disposal to make selections without extra cost, and prices will be furnished upon application. Let’s go into the business, for the fad for all sorts of pare sols is assuming terrifying proportions! One can’t have enough of them, it seems. Some are made to match the costume in fabric as well as in colour; others for sporting events are made of the material of the skirt, which is also introduced in the hat. Still other adorable sets are composed of parasol, hat and girdle or bag, while a parasol to match the hat exactly is very, very chic. Some of the best parasols have shirred chiffon linings, and as for the newest shape there is no such thing— some are flat, others concave; some large, and others exceeding small, while the handles may be any old le ngth. Florette shows a pale pink organdie set of parasol and hat trimmed with half-inch bands of moleskin—delightfully impractical, therefore very desirable. \t Stokes’s attractive shop, just opened, not only embroidery supplies and worsteds are to be found, but smart sports skirts, sweaters, blouses id dresses of all descriptions. One of their sweaters—perhaps it might be called a blouse—is so unique and pretty that it is irresistible, and I am looking forward to June when I can splurge about in one myszlf. Heavy white cr¢pe de Chine is the Hay fer’s Bazar for April What could be more bewitching than a Lenvin poke-bonnet of white crin faced with Nattier blue straw and trimmed simply with Naittier bluc velvet? Model imported by Gidding. foundation, with narrow black pipings of taffeta on all the edges; the sleeves and body part, which is shirred into a full peplum, are embroidered in coral and jet beads. Right now long sweaters without sleeves § are well liked, and Lord and Taylor’s has mar |: am \ Se some lovely models of Shetland wool. Women imagine the lack of sleeves gives more freedom when swinging golf-clubs. Woolen materials, satin, Jersey and of course hand-knitted yarns are all popular for making these loosely belted garments. Sports vests are worn too, and Bonwit Teller has some very good-looking mannish ones of novelty silks and linens, while Ogilvie’s are more feminine and made in one with a scarf which can be slung about the neck and over the shoulder most alluringly. Miss Ogilvie’s original millinery has an individuality all its own, so of course I was interested to see her latest idea which she was good enough to show me in the making—a straw-col- oured straw hat embroidered in wooden beads of all sizes and a girdle composed of strands of the be ‘ads to wear with it. \t last we have the chain belt for which every- body has been clamouring these many months, and Macy shows a large variety of them; for the chemise frocks are lovely ones which ‘are quite Egyptian witb their Oriental stones and links of hammered brass. To wear with a navy serge suit Franklin Simon’s have some lovely black taffeta belts that button in front and are embroidered with Oriental coloured crewels in conventional de-

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Harper's Bazar for Apri ANOREWS-ca FELL Harper’s Bazar will purchase anything for you that you may wish. Experienced buyers are at your disposal to make sele: tions without extra cost, and prices will be furnished upon application. In this ultrasmart set, imported from Germaine by Altman (upper left), the tulle parasol and the straw and tulle hat are banded with embroidered ribbon. One of the most popular of Maria Guy’s models is this becoming hat of Liséré with sprays of rosebuds covering the crown, which Gidding imported (upper centre). Wércédes has a wonderful Chinese parasol, ex- quisitely embroidered in colour on a black silk foundation, with the handle of carved ivory and a Chinese idol perched on the apex (upper right). Louise has imported from Bernard a tan top- coat with yellow revers and large pockets giving the extended hip-line (lower left). The striped girdle is very smart. When a bit of lingerie is trimmed with bands of hand-embroidered organdie and a silk rose or two, you know instinctively that it is from Boué Seurs (lower centre) Capes are very fashionable this season. Velours in a soft shade of green makes this smart model with triple cape and figured lining (lower right). The straw hat with satin quill is from Ferle Heller. 84 ALONG FIFTH AVENUE

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From Wanamaker is a parasol, hat and bag of black linen embroidered in orange and green worsteds. The sheer white linen blouse has the new trimming—bias folds of orange or other coloured linen. This interesting group of parasols Jrom Altman proves that this season the smart sunshade may be any shape, size or colour, but—the smartest of them are lined. Harper’s Bazar will purchase anything for you that you may wish. Experienced buyers are at your disposal to make selections without extra cost, and prices will be furnished upon application. sign. A good-looking bag at Gimbel’s is of brown taffeta, over which are scattered embroidered bead flowers. It would seem that accessories are claiming more and more attention every day, and after all “the little things” do count immensely. But one can not call the cigarette cases from Black, Starr and Frost “little”’—except in size—for they are ex- quisite in workmanship and design. Even the woman who is a descendant of Priscilla will drop her puritanical notions and take to smoking as soon as she sees this adorable trinket, just for the joy of carrying it. Gold has been moulded in oval shape and engraved, and divided into three compart- ments, cigarettes in the middle, powder-puff at the bottom, wax matches at the top. Inset in the lid is a watch surrounded with diamonds. Miss Carroll made quantities of new clothes for Marie Tempest to take to Australia. Miss Tem- pest never goes in for novelty in dress, but ex- quisite workmanship, quality and charm mark every frock she owns. But what captivated me Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April ALONG FIFTH AWOREWS-LA FELL A smart hat from Réboux is of Liséré with a large bow of black velvet rib bon faced with white satin. Im- ported by Gidding. rey, Ng d | ~~ To wear with a white silk skirt is a light blue blouse of crépe Georgette and pongee embroidered in gold and black. Worsted fruits grow on the linen hat. From Wanamaker. Below are an Egyptian belt and a beaded neck - band Jrom Arnold, Cons table, a belt of black patent leather from Cross, and one of woven cords from the Sports Shop for Women. most of all was a tea-gown. The short slip of pale yellow chiffon had a silver belt and was banded at the knees with wide V >etian lace from which hung a flounce of cream thre. ! lace. The chiffon tea-coat of a deeper shade of cllow was made so long that it formed a train, and as the finish was simply a piceted edge, it will flutter airily along as she walks. A jeweled band outlined the V-neck, and from the front the bands hung loose, ending at the knees where they were finished with the longest of jeweled tassels! At Mrs. Dewing’s Sports Shop for Women are so many fascinating things that I defy any one to resist their charm. Gingham is very popular, and frocks made of this old-fashioned stuff are so charming that I know every one will want several for summer. Mrs. Dewing combines white hand- kerchief linen with finely checked gingham in adorable morning dresses, and when topped with a mushroom hat made entirely of the gingham, even to an inch-wide frill at the edge and the hand- made roses, the ensemble is too sweet for words. The Paris openings were a disappointment except for colour and embroidery, for there was no new silhouette. Bringing the lovely things over is a precarious business nowadays, but in the meantime cables give lots of news, and many a Parisian novelty is seen here | | |

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A close-fitting hat of corded blue taffeta, faced with purple duvetyn,

ALONG FIFTH

AVENUE AN DREWS-LA FEY

few ww o < eK rs

gains distinction from a long tassel held by a Chinese ornament (up- per centre). The scarf is made to match. From

Ogilvie has an original sports

Bruck Weiss.

Very adorable is this quaint poke which Gid- ding imported from Rose Descat. It is of white organdie orna

mented with cords and

roses of blue satin. before the original model arrives from the other side. Gidding’s buyer is madly shopping in Paris and has cabled her firm lots of fashion hints. As all the world shows interest in Callot’s genius, it is really quite exciting to hear that’ her skirts are extremely narrow, her dresses long, straight and clinging, while embroidery is on everything. Many marvelous heavy brocades are used, and evening gowns are sumptuously trimmed with beads of jet and glass. For the seashore Callot’s frocks display vivid colours—and as for fur, it does not appear anywhere. Lanvin goes in for Greek effects for afternoon and evening, and makes short loose cape-coats in bright red, navy and beige, while every tailleur has a vest of white piqué. And Chanel, who has firmly established herself in the front rank of French creators, has some of the most wonderful and perfectly lovely sporting togs, but all made inside out, for her suits are of silk Jersey lined with wool Jersey. Wouldn’t you expect it to be the other way round? Oh, there are so many attractive things in the shops to talk of—porcelain lamps with silk shades matching in design at Dewey’s; checked and spotted organdies, ever so crisp and new and enticing at McCutcheon’s; dainty and becoming Dutch boudoir caps at Oppenheim Collins’; mirrors with sconces at McCreery’s reproduced at most moderate prices; and at Stern’s wooden electric fans on tall stands which will cool the room and look attractive at the same time—a dual achieve- ment quite impossible in the past. Grey sutde belts that knot at the side and have long ends embroidered with navy blue beads are at Holland- er’s, and at Udall and Ballou’s is a framed copper plate on which is etched the Reims Cathedral and in the upper corner of which is a small diamond- shaped clock—altogether an exquisite souvenir. Though Venetians are sadly pinched by the hardships of war they stick to their arts, bravely keeping up the efliciency of their industries; every boat that comes to us fronmy Italy brings exquisite linens from Queen Elena’s School or charming pieces of glass from Murano. Many of these lovely linens find their way to Mrs. Wiltbank’s Italian shop, while Ovington features the Venetian glass. Very much sought after are pairs of cologne bottles with powder-box to match, all three of which are similar in outline and are topped with clustres of glass flowers, the leaves and flowers being in natural Copyright, 7, Harper's Bazar for April

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Harper’s Bazar will purchase anything for you that you may wish. Experienced buyers are at your disposal to make selections without extra cost, and prices will be furnished upon application. vest with scarf of tan and white plaided duvetyn edged with worsted fringe. The coolie hat is made of the same materials. Marie Tempest is going to Australia, and with her goes a charming dress made by Miss Carroll of white taffeta veiled in black chiffon and trimmed with exquisite hand embroidery. colours. Then a jar for marmalade is perfect, for as a handle to the cover there is a really truly glass orange. Oh, these glass things are delightful! It would seem like a luxury to possess anything of such daintiness, though really they are so moderately priced that they are within the reach of mortals with but average means. It is about time to be seeding the flower-bed, and to avoid rheumatism milady should put a cushion between her and the damp ground while a-planting. De- cidedly worth while is a garden set consisting of cushion, trowel and fork—the cushion is covered with black and white checked oilcloth and bound about in red, and the utensils are painted in red and black to match. The supply of new ideas never seems to run out, for after all common sense is behind each new thing. A long handled shoe-horn seems nothing extraordinary, but have you ever seen one? I did the other day at Gorham’s. The ebony handle of this silver shoe-horn must be half a yard in length, and think of the comfort—whether you are fat or thin—of slipping into slippers without stooping over. Both useful and ornamental are the new trays for smokers. Gorham has some good-looking ones of hammered silver, which have handles and are lined with wood. There are compartments for cigars and cigarettes, and also places for the alcohol lighter and the dozen little individual silver ash- trays. I should think the butler would find them a delight, for he could accomplish so much with but one trip around the table. At present it would seem that the more startling the colour the smarter the article, and yellow being quite the shade of the season it must appear of course on china. While joining in the convivial after-dinner smoke, vicariously or otherwise, any woman will think her coffee the very nectar of the gods if she sips it from a cup of yellow Royal Wor- cester. Mark Cross has a set of this oddly decora- tive china—a coffee-pot, sugar dish, cream jug and half a dozen cups and saucers, all very stylish affairs and most worthy of admiration. Delicate traceries in black on the shining yellow surface are reminders that black is still with us. Black and white enameled spoons and a severely plain little

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ite ed Foo etter ee Tw owe We Oa and finished with violet velvet ribbons. ANDREWS-LA FELL Such a perky little waist is this original design from Faibisy. It is of white taffeta, bound with cerise silk Copyright, 1917, Harper's Bazar for ALONG FIFTH AVENTVE ce) Harper’s Bazar will purchase anything for you that you may wish. Experienced buyers are at your disposal to make selections without extra cost, and prices will be furnished upon application. Lanvin is making smart chemise dresses with coats to match, and Gidding has imported a lovely model (11 >per left) from her in plain brown and plaided brown aid tan velours. the embroidered frock of beige French serve veiled with thin nun’s veiling is from Tobé-Gill (upper centre), and the blue Georgette hat, trimmed with water- lilies, was imported from Suzanne Talbot by Nicole de Paris. mahogany tray complete the service. These trays are just a bit more desirable nowadays than silver for both the tea and coffee hours; there is something in the richness of the wood that emphasizes the colour of the china. Wonders will never cease! We now keep our candy in glass jars, the children or grandchildren of those respectable but ugly containers which the shops have long found so useful. Ours are useful, to be sure, but they are also highly ornamental. They vary in shape and design, but those of plain crystal or Bohemian glass, in shape resembling old- fashioned flower-urns, are immensely attractive. More fascinating—one might say freakish—is a hollow parrot made of wood, all painted and be- decked and just aching to be filled with Maillard’s sweets. tab, HILL'S STUDIO Miss Martha Hedman A sweater blouse of white crépe de Chine, bound with black taffeta and embroidered in coral and jet beads, comes from Stokes. The Chanel hat is of braided worsted and was brought over by Nicole de Paris.

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Blue crépe de Chine and chiffon uith red roses and a silver cord are used by Mrs. Dunham for this desirable slip-on negligée. The likes pajamas is a ! lovely gilt mirror becoming sleeping \ f with sconces is suit of pink Pussy - \ a § : fot from McCreery’s. Willow taffeta nag c= ; : bound with folds of white taffeta. From Bonwit Tel- ler and Company. Thoma makes a charming bed sacque of pink crépe de Chine and embroidered batiste to be worn with a becoming lace boudoir cap. The lamp from Dewey is blocked tin, painted cream. An adorable three-piece lingerie set, To wear in the boudoir is a Thoma set embroidered in colour, is imported by of garters and cap made of thread lace, / Wanamaker. Cap of white net soutached. —rosebuds and blue ribbons. - mee Boué Saurs have * ulilized the exquisite hand embroidery for which they are noted in the camisole and panel of a slip of A dainty chemise from Bonwit Teller’s is of Har per’s Bazar will purchase anything for you that you may wish. sheer pink linen pink Georgette crépe edged with batiste and Experienced buyers are at your disposal to make selections without & with inserts of filet trimmed with rosebuds and blue ribbon. extra cost, and prices will be furnished upon application. \ lace. Cotvriaht, 1917, Harper's Bazar for April

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a RAT ~ Be ay NE aa This illustrates a reproduction of an ancient Chinese Rug of the late Ming Dynasty. Size 15 ft x 9 ft. REPRODUCTIONS OF ANCIENT CHINESE RUGS —— . — = . cam sey serie ee é, HE designs of the old Chinese Rugs are not merely applications of ornament arranged to please the eye, but each color combination and symbol have their appropriate meaning and purpose in the philos- ophy and religion from which they emanate. In the above design there is shown, on a rich porcelain blue ground, a conventionalized arrangement of small “cloud scrolls,’ on which is imposed a systematic grouping of “storks,” emblematic of longevity. The border, with its swastika fret, is an augury of good fortune. The soft tawny yellows, used in the design in connection with the porcelain blue ground, make a color combination of rare beauty. eR a Ft wt Ia CE -_ Sag x Pm: i => i ‘ This is one of many of our reproductions of genuine Antique Rugs of the Ming and Tsing Dynasties. These Rugs afford a range of size unobtainable in the antique specimens. It would be a pleasure to give you more complete information re- garding our stock and facilities for weaving Rugs in required dimensions. W. & J. SLOANE Direct Importers of Eastern Rugs Interior Decorators Floor Coverings and Fabrics Furniture Makers FIFTH AVENUE AND FORTY-SEVENTH STREET, NEW YORK WASHINGTON, D. C. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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Tr r MI ee avvnastinecancanentannecauntninel att hi BAILEY, BANKS 6 BIDDIE© THE HAND BOOK- Illustrated PHILADELPHIA ENGAGEMENT RINGS WEDDING INVITATIONS BRIDAL JEWELS BRIDAL SILVER WEDDING RINGS Jeweled-Platinum-Gold mailed upon request Je welers since 1852 Philadelphia / Fiftieth Anni Harper s Baz car, TT Me Ay sduncenenevnsnnnevnecesonsueneneenasanensney 90 The American Ambassador (Continued from page 57) Atter all every woman is the same. They want to see a certain expression in a man’s eyes, the look that tells them nothing in the world is of any consequence except themselves, and then, whiff!—out of their lives you go. Still I can’t seem to believe she is that sort. Yet her note was so cold. Yes—there’s nothing for it but to break away from the whole thing and go home. February 17, 19— “WHat the dickens is the matter with you? You look as though you had been pulled through a keyhole!” This was the Ambassador ’s greeting to me when I went in to see him this morning. I knew it was meant to be sympathetic, but it made.me feel like a fool. ““May I talk to you on a purely personal matter, sir?” I said. His expression changed quickly; a sort of quic kening into gentleness. ‘Something gone wrong?’ “Ves—a good deal. 1 want to go home.” He whistled softly. “That bad?” I nodded. “If you don’t mind—please don’t ask me to tell you what it is. He let his eyes rest on me a full minute, then shifted them to the window. In the silence that followed he sighed. “Love affair, of course.” His comment made me start. told him? ““What makes you think that, sir?” His smile was not one of amusement; it was of real, human understanding. ‘My dear boy, the signs are unmistakable. You take me back thirty years, when I was trying to marry Kitty’s mother.’”’ He rose, crossed to where I was sitting and laid his hand on my shoulder. ‘Has she thrown you over?” I nodded. ‘For another fellow?’ “T don’t know.” “You don’t know! Didn’ t she give any excuse “She said she had wee out that she was mistaken.” “And you believed her?” This with in- creasing incredulity. “By Golly! You ought to be thrown over! Wake up! Don’t you see she’s only putting you to the test?’ I shook my head. ‘No, she is not that sort.” At this he laughed. “Oh, come off! You are putting her on a pedestal. We all do that when we are in love. It’s the greatest mistake in the world. A woman’s just as much of a human being as a man—only a darned sight sweeter and more fractious. Your girl’s trying you out to see what’s in you; and—bless goodness!—you’ve fallen down at the first fence.” All this time I was sitting dejectedly huddled in a large leather chair with the Ambassador standing beside me, patting me now and then on the shoulder. It must have been a humourous sight. I wish I might have been in a mood to enjoy it. “‘ American girl?” he asked, after a pause. I nodded. “Over here?” Again I nodded. He turned away and went to the window, standing there with his back to the room and looking out. I watched the outline of his solid back in silence. During the long pause it gradually drifted in on me that he prob- ably knew what I meant, had known all along. Indeed it was preposterous to imagine that he didn’t know. He is too keen to have let such an obvious situation pass un- noticed. When he came back to his desk he avoided looking at me. “Well,” he said, pulling some letters towards him, “if you feel you don’t love her enough to stop on and fight for her, I shan’t Had Kate ‘Pon my word! stand in the way of your going. You’d better clear out at once.” His words stung me to the quick. I sprang up and went to him. “You don’t understand,” I said, my voice shi aking with anger. “T’m not a cowi ard.’ “If you aren’t that, then you’re a fool.” I turned towards the door, furious. ‘Look here,” he called after me. I stopped with my hand on the knob. “No, come bac k here and look at me. I never talk to a man’s back.” I turned slowly and faced him. “How old are you?” “Twenty-six.” “Ahem! I had been married four years when I was your age. And since then I’ve been married again. You'll admit that makes for a little experience, won’t you? Well, you say you love this girl, and yet you give her up just because she wrote you a note and said she was mistaken—or something. Why, boy, that ought to make you love her all the more. If you had receiv ed a note like that a couple of hundred years ago, do you know what you would have done? You’d have gathered all your friends together and gone and got her out of her home and carried her off with you. That girl’s put you to the test, and you’ve shown yourse lf a quitter! Not only a quitter to her, but to me Here I am in the darndest hole a man ever tound himself in, needing all the help J can get, and you, my private secretary, are the first to want to fail me. . . But go right along—I’m through with you now— good-bye!’ He turned away and pressed a bell-button, and while waiting began opening some personal letters. Arturo entered and, having bowed, awaifed orders. The Ambassador looked up, glanced at Arturo and then back at me. “Well?” he said to me. you want to say?” *Yes—alone.” “Come back later, Arturo.” Arturo bowed and retired. “Well?” he repeated. I cleared my throat. stay.’ He got up and patted me on the back. “Good! I thought you needed an eye-opener. It’! be a good lesson to you. When every- thing looks like it was against you, make up your mind that that’s the time to begin your fight. There’s my hand.” I took his in both my own and shook it warmly. “Now —let’s get busy. The mail-pouch is just in from Washington.” “Something else “T’ve decided to February 24, 19— ATE is still in Paris. I did not see her before she left. She expects to return, so the Ambassador tells me, in about a week. In the meantime we have had a? a Washington’s birthday reception. almost brought on a row between the PR Boe: and Mrs. Colborne. Just before the reception he was looking about the rooms, and stopped in the hall where the guests were to be re- ceived and glanced up at the flag draped over the door. Suddenly in a loud voice he called Arturo: “Where’s that bust of George Wash- ington? I told you to place it right there facing the guests, so they could see it when they came in. Arturo bowed, all apologies. “I’m sorry, Your Excellency, but Her Excellency told me she thought the flag was enough—with- out Mr. Washington.” The Ambassador looked him up and down. Arturo’s bows reached quite to the ground. “Well— it isn’t. Bring the bust at once.” All of which goes to prove that Mrs. Col- borne, particularly in matters of national spirit, is not omnipotent. The reception, a sort of enlarged tea- party, went off with great success—a real orgy in red, white and blue. The chic orches- tra of the town played what they considered our national anthems, “The High School Cadets”, ‘The Washington Post”, and “Waiting for the Robert E. Lee’—all in perfect waltz time. On the tea-table—a glorified lunch counter—were piles of national food— Lady Baltimore cake, ham sandwiches, champagne punch, and yes, really, grape juice. The Ambassador would have had griddle-cakes if we had not protested. And the guests?—Americans only. A personally conducted tour swept through the rooms commenting loudly on everything; a large “finishing school for young ladies” giggled in corners and made havoc with the refresh- ments; one lady came without her hat—as she explained to Mrs. Colborne, “It made it so much more informal”. Mrs. Colborne’s face was an interesting study as she received these guests and listened to their elaborate greetings. And the Ambassador!—I had never seen him so happy before. His laugh resounded above the Sousa “waltzes”; he jollied every one, male and female; he ‘told his pet story of the barbed-wire fence factory a hundred times; and ended the afternoon in such glorious hilarity that we suspected the champagne punch. Jolly, hearty, fine old fellow! I hope he is the “vrai type américain We couldn't have a better one. And if he can only come out on top! The time is creeping up, entirely too fast, when he will be put to his test; but I know that he will not be the quitter I came so near to being. March 3, 19— FEW days ago we received from the palace an ominous black-bordered en- velope informing us that His Majesty’s aunt’s second cousin had died and that the court would mourn for ten days. This doesn't mean exactly sackcloth and ashes, but it does mean that no one entertains for the next fortnight and that not only the court but the whole diplomatic corps must wear mourning during the period. Dalton and Atkins, veteran diplomats, were already possessed of a complete outfit and immediate- ly appeared in crape swathed hats, bands on their sleeves and black suits. Neither the Ambassador nor I had a black garment, except dress clothes, so we are both now 0 “hand-me-downs”, more mournful as_ to fit than as to colouring. Mrs. Colborne has put the immediately bereaved family to shame. I have never seen such a magnificent use of crape as she has appropriated to her self. Her veil, besides being voluminous, is (Continued on page 92)

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r Ip I a ol | =| | Tecla Pearls back = ’ uf § or Onientals sd YOU SHOULD WEAR ONE ack ie OR THE OTHER —— ts : 2511 would be folly tin fF £7| to extol Oriental 7 . 242029) Pearls to the ex- om | f clusion of Tecla Pearls, oe | fF or to commend the re- = nowned creations of - Tecla to the detriment a of the Oriental originals, her for they are so indistin- a guishably alike in ap- an pearance that to praise om one at the expense of the nce” |e other would be just as ional absurd as the young lady = who remarked that she had read Romeo but chool ° nt E had not yet found time ‘ol | to read Juliet. mm | & , nal Really, whether you te wear Orientals or Tecla _ Pearls is only incidental aa to the main considera- erat tion that you should lugs | wear one or the other, $ for they are an ornament a the of indescribable beauty. bs is uldn t tirely : Tecla Pearl Necklaces iter P| , with diamond clasp E $75 to $350 i d en- = = at? of Cel. E put it = yr the . pet = a § IB Sif th /venue Mew York ae 4 10 Rue de la Paix, Paris 3 4 ificent - WN dl iN ah i Ui l O ay Fiftieth Anniversary Year 91 Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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Ouondal | DREICER «&C° Sewels FIFTH AVENUE at FORTY-SIXTH — NEW YORK ~ Pals NECKLACES, BEAUTIFULLY MATCHED AND GRADED; ALSO LOOSE PEARLS OF GREAT RARITY FOR AD-~ DITION TO CENTRES MAY ALWAYS BE SELECTED FROM THE DREICER COL LECTION OF ORIENTAL PEARLS -—--=-=-—_———— DREICER «&C° Pearls FIFTH AVENUE at FORTY-SIXTH ~NEW YORK — BRANCH AT CHICAGO The American Ambassador (Continued from page go) immensely becoming. The Ambassador told her he would postpone his demise if she were going to be such a fetching widow. Kate returned yesterday. We went to the station to meet her, which turned out to be a miserable mistake. She has been ill and looks wretched. She greeted us with an effort, smiled in a way that hurt me to the quick, then clung to her father and searched his face for some clue to present conditions. Dalton and I had intended to drive back with them. We saw, however, that we were not wanted and decided to walk. Poor old Dalton! He was as dejected as I. “Tt will kill her,” he said, after we had walked a long way in silence. “What?” I asked. “Tf her father is ruined.” “She has talked to you about it!” I ex- claimed, stung with jealousy and with the fear that she had thrown me over for him. “Ves,” he went on, calm enough. “A few days before she left she asked me what I thought of the situation.” “What did you tell her?” “The truth. She is not the sort of girl one need hide it from. It was her right to know. She asked me if her father’s salvation rested absolutely in Comte de Stanlau’s hands. told her it did. Nothing else under the sun can save him if’”’—Dalton gave a swift look about us—‘“‘he has the cable.” “YVes—but it is ‘if’.” “No. As a matter of fact there is no if. He has it.” I started. “You know that?” “I practically do. Have you noticed that Stanlau is with the British Ambassador a great deal lately. Well, you know what that means. I told the Ambassador this morning that there appeared only one thing left to do; thresh out the w hole thing with Stanlau and pay him his price. “What did he say?” “He wrote to him and asked him to come to the Embassy this afternoon at four o’clock.” I stopped short and faced Dalton. “Good Heavens! Do you mean we shall know to-night whether or not the Ambassa- dor is saved?” “That is exactly what I mean.” ND now I hardly know how to tell it. The end of everything has come for me. If I had only gone home two weeks ago when I first thought of it, it might have been easier to bear. At least I should not have had the details of a scene before me which will always be just there confronting me, biting its way into my memory like a corroding acid. I might have known it; indeed I still have balance enough left to see that it is quite a natural result. Still it hurts more than any- thing that has yet come into my life; more, much more, than Kate’s note to me—and that was bad enough. I went into the Ambassador’s room yes- terday just before luncheon and found him sitting at his desk in deep thought. His strong, broad hands were clasped before him and resting on the large sheet of blue blotting- paper which Arturo places there fresh every morning. He looked at me without saying a word. I sat down at the side of his desk in the chair always occupied by visitors on official business. After a long silence he spoke. “Did Dalton tell you?” “You mean about Stanlau? Yes, sir.” He unclasped his hands and gripped the arms of the chair. “I’m no good as an old-fashioned diplo- mat,” he said slowly, more as if talking to himself than to me. “I’m used to handling things straight from the shoulder. All this intrigue business bores me to death. I sup- pose it had its day; but I can’t see the use of it now! And yet,” his hands slapped the arms of the chair, “that fellow Stanlau doesn’t seem to know any other way. He knows what I’m up to; and I think I know what he’s up to. Beyond that we diverge. But things have got to come to a head. Parliament meets in less than a month, called by the King for a special session to vote on our question. We've talked that threadbare, so there’s no use wasting words over it again. The fact still remains that with the King, the Prime Minister, and the Con- servatives all in favour of us, that infernal left wing of the Socialists, headed by our friend Stanlau, is not only against us but holds the deciding vote. I’ve done my best to find out how to handle Stanlau, and I've failed. He appears to be playing a strong game for his party. They are back of him to a man; and nobody seems to be able to suggest how to checkmate him. Of course he has a price; but I can’t find out what it is. He stopped, ran his hand through his hair and stood up. “Well, sir,’ I said, “‘what have you de- cided on?” He took a step nearer me and dropped his clenched fist on the desk. “I’m going to do this: I’m going to lay the whole thing before him, every card face up, and then ask him how much he considers his opposition worth.” He stopped a moment and breathed deeply, ._ Thank _God, I’ve got enough money to and I’m ready to pay over every cent I possess! F course you are counting on his hay- ing the cable?” “Naturally. Otherwise—” “But how will you know?” “T’m going to ask him.” “Still,” I debated, “‘can you believe what he will tell you?” He smiled confidently. “I’ve never yet put a direct question to a man and failed to know if his answer was the truth or a lie.” “Tf he tells you he has it?” His face grew suddenly hard and very old. “Tf he has that cable, my Government must know it at once. And then—I’ll probably be relieved of my job in a few days.” “You will go home at once?” He looked at me steadily through a long, painful minute. “Not at once—no.” He sat down in his chair and, with a visible effort, changed the subject. ‘‘Now to business. I’m going to receive Stanlau in the library. There’s a door with a curtain over it that leads into my smoking-room; you know it?” I nodded. ““Good! I want you to put a chair back of that curtain, sit there through the interview and make notes of everything that is said; not in your head, mind you, but on paper. It’s going to be too important for any part of it to be forgotten. Be here a little before four; he’s coming at that time. That’s all.’’ I got up and held out my hand. “Mr. Ambassador, you ‘know how much I want you to win!” “Of course I do, my boy; and I thi ink you for it. We'll come out on top yet!’ And in a way he has won, if he will accept the situation as it now confronts him. But for me it is dire, dismal failure! I arrived a little before time and arranged my seat behind the curtain. The Ambassador was already in the library, walking up and down with his hands clasped behind him. In a few minutes Comte de Stanlau was announced. I took my seat behind the cur- tain. The Ambassador welcomed Stanlau cor- dially and offered him a cigar, which he re- fused, lighting a cigarette of his own: then they sat down, Stanlau comfortably on a sofa, the Ambassador facing him in a straight chair. “I’m glad you could come this afternoon. Saves heaps of time when you can get a fellow the day you want him.” The Ambassador cut the end of an unusually long cigar and reached for a match. Stanlau was quick to light one for him and rising held it to his cigar. “Thank you.” The Ambassador blew a thick cloud of smoke between them. “Now —we can talk!” Stanlau resumed his seat on the sofa. “Yes, Your Excellency.” The Ambassador drew again at his cigar. “Tf you don’t mind, would you just as soon drop that Excellency business? It bothers me. I want to talk to you like man to man. You're Stanlau—I’m Colborne.” ‘That is agreeable to me; indeed I am much fle tte red.’ “Well. Now—” the Ambassador got up. Stanlau promptly did the same. *‘ No—no. You sit where you are. I’ve got to be on my feet whe on I talk. Got the habit in the Senate. Again Stanlau sat down. The Ambassador stood immediately in front of him, and with hands deep in his pockets looked him squarely in the eyes. “You know, Stanlau, that a special session of Parliament has been called for the last of this month. You also know that the Prime Minister will place before it a bill in which my Government is deeply interested. For the act resulting from the passage of this bill we have offered to pay your country an enormous price. We have also stated that we are prepared to make important tariff concessions. All this I have put very con- cisely before the Prime Minister and the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Both of them inform me that the Conservatives are in favour of the bill, as it provides them with a means of paying off the national debt. The King is for it, because it will give him funds to carry on his hobby—armament. In spite of this I am given to understand that the bill will not pass Parliament—due to the con- trolling vote of the Socialist party with you at its head.” TANLAU waited until he saw that the Ambassador had finished, then lighted another cigarette. He settled back on the sofa, crossed his legs and to all appearances intended to make no comment on what had been said. The Ambassador stood the silence as long as he could, then broke out: ‘‘ Well, Stanlau, I’ve asked you to come here to discuss the (Continued on page 94) Fifticth Anniversary Harper's Basar, April, 1917 92 i

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Trade Mark {fnniversary Year Bazar, April, 1917 uc BN The American Ambassador (Continued from page 92) matter with me.” He paused for a reply. “Yes,” said me. entirely non-com- mittal. ‘With your opposition I am told I shall be unsuccessful.”’ This was followed by a slight pause. “If your opposition is withdrawn I shall win. What I want to know is this— what will persuade you to take sides with me? Stanlau still maintained his composed attitude. During the silence that followed the Ambassador sat down, though not for a second taking his-eyes from Stanlau’s. The room grew so quiet that I could hear my watch ticking. “If I withdrew my opposition,” Stanlau at last began, his voice very low and each word spoken as if it were first carefully considered, ‘I should be forfeiting the confidence of my followers. That is very dear to me, for my followers are the real people of this country; and they, as I, look upon this bill in which you are so interested as something that will be a lessening of their national honour. If I favoured it I should probably have to leave here for ever; it would mean a virtual exile. I should be called a traitor to my party; I should be detested and cursed!” He stopped with an expressive gesture, then continued even more reflectively: “‘ Besides— now that other nations know—” The Ambassador sprang up from his chair. His face was scarlet; his hands were clenched in a vain attempt to control himself. “So you have the cable! That’s what I wanted to know!” Stanlau smiled. “What cable?” “Don’t try to beat about the bush! You would never have known about another nation if you hadn’t seen it!’ OR a few seconds Stanlau drew at his cigarette. “W. ell, even if I admit hav- ing seen the cable ‘I wonder if you know what you are ad- mitting—” the Ambassador interrupted, his voice loud and full of stinging contempt. “You have pretended to be my friend; you have ‘accepted my hospitality? you have broken bread with me time and time again; and yet you set spies on my house and ferret out private information which you can use against me—which—which may ruin me! And then, by Heaven, you have the nerve to come here and admit it to me!” Stanlau had risen at this outburst and stood facing the Ambassador, quietly waiting for him to finish. “I admit having seen the cable, Your Excellency.” His dignity and composure were perfect. “I do not admit having put spies here ( to obtain it. It was given to me. “By whom?” “That, unfortunately, I am not at liberty to say.” “T demand to know.” “T beg of you not to insist. good.” Strangely enough this appeared to calm the Ambassador. He turned away from Stanlau for the first time since the interview had begun and walked across the room. In a minute he was back again. “Tf you give out that information, Stanlau, it will cost your country the enormous sum we are offering. I suggest that you consider that.’ Stanlau smiled. tion “No other nation will do anything. They understand our Monroe Doctrine pretty well by now.” “Perhaps though they might be willing to go to war over a matter of such vital impor- tance to them.’ This appeared to amuse the Ambassador. “We've licked England twice. We can do it again. So we don’t fear her.” Then with a quick change of voice: “‘ Look here, Stanlay, my offer is of great advantage to your coun- try. You know that as well as I do. Your party may not see it to-day, but they will in a few years. It is a chance for you to show your fore sight.” Stanlau_ appeared to consider this idea, and for a few minutes neither of them spoke. I am recording this conversation just as it took place. As I look back on it, now that I am in my room, I see so much more clearly how each one was playing the other; and yet, at the time, I would have sworn that each was sincere. “If it were known that I had possession of the information embodied in that cable and did not use it—’ Stanlau left the sen- tence effectively unfinished. “No one except my Government, you and I know its contents.” “Can we be sure of that?” “We can—unless you have shown it.” “T have shown it to no one.” “Well?” “Well?” Both were smiling. “What are you going to do?” the Am- bassador finally asked. Stanlau’s expression grew serious. “It would be rather precipitate of me to pledge It can do no “Even if another na- 94 myself to you before I know what others would do.” Without a word the Ambassador went toa bell and pressed it. While waiting he pulled out his watch and looked at it. “It has taken me a full half hour to find out what I wanted to know—whether or not you were in communication with other goy- ernments.”” Arturo, entering at this moment, he turned to him. “Ask Mr. Dalton to come here at once.” For the first time Stanlau spoke quickly, “Just one moment, please.” This was ad- dressed to Arturo, who bowed and waited. Then to the Ambassador: “I beg your pardon, but may I ask what you intend to do “Cable my Government at once.’ “Before you do that, would it not be better to hear what I have to say?’ The Ambassador nodded to Arturo. “Never mind, I'll ring for you later.” Stanlau walked to the window and stood for a little while with his back to the Am- bassador. I was beginning to feel that the crucial part of the interview was passed. Surely the important fact was now known. The Ambassador had found out that Stan- lau had the cable; and, more important still, that he was in communication with the British Government concerning the informa- tion contained in it. As disconcerting as both discoveries were, it at least made cer- tain what was before only surmise. Stan- lau’s next word, however, put international questions considerably in the background. To me they were as if they had never existed. “There is something of much more vital importance to me,” Stanlau said, ‘‘than this matter between our Governments.” He stopped, permitting a slight pause to give importance to his words. “I mean your daughter. I love her.” The Ambassador flicked his cigar with impatience. ‘‘That’s changing the subject. Let’s stick to business.” “I beg your pardon; it is not changing the subject. I have the honour to ask you for her hand.” Again the Ambassador made an impatient gesture. ‘“Stanlau, Kate’s just like me. She’d no more think of marrying any one but an American than she’d think of jumping in the fire. She refused you in Washington; it will be just the same here. I’m sorry for you—but—” He spread out his hands as if the subject were settled once and for all. Stanlau smiled. It was not an altogether pleasant smile; it was too much the result of assured complacency. His voice too, though thoroughly polite and considerate, had in it a quality too expressive of certainty to be agreeable. “‘When a man loves, discouragement only feeds the flame.” I wondered if the Am- bassador remembered having expressed ex- actly the same sentiment to me a couple of weeks before. have something to offer your daughter which is not altogether neg- ligible. My name is a very old one; it is known all over Europe. Your daughter as my wife would be received at every court. She would have four castles—” The Ambassador interrupted with a yawn so frank and full of ennui that it cut Stanlau short in the enumeration of his attractions and left him standing, flushed with indigna- tion. “*Stanlau, let’s cut this out. None of it’s what the right sort of an American girl wants.” It was extraordinary how Stanlau kept his balance. “No?” he said, half enquiringly. “What then does she want?” “*Good—honest—faithful love!” The Am- bassador punctuated each word by letting his hand fall on the arm of his chair. “But that goes without saying!” “‘Not on your life—not with you Europeans! I’d want it put in the marriage contract. I’ve a my eyes open since I’ve been over here. I don’t blame you so much personally as I do your laws and your traditions. I suppose you can ’t know how to treat a woman if you’ve never seen them given a fair chance.” TANL AU received _ this thoughtfully. ‘That is the usual American opinion, know,” he answered slowly. “It is quite wrong. I believe the European wife 1s happier and more of a homemaker than the American. There is no doubt that she is much more contented. You are bound to admit that. And do you know why?—it is because we demand certain things of her. Give a woman too much freedom, either of thought or action, and she is ruined. Her happiness depends upon her subordination. The normal woman wants her husband to be her master. The Ambassador laughed with genuine amusement. ‘“That’s a good enough theory for your women; but, by George, I’d like you to show me an American girl tha would stand for it! No, Stanlau,” seriously, “T’ve seen too many nice girls come over here, (Continued on page 100) I &

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(CAMMEYE 361 Fifth Avenue ew York Exclusive footwear for Women eormeeertenrtiniiin ‘ ' “uw ovapevevaneuunevenesnonsnenenaseueneueeyeneseasn ete Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, The American Ambassador (Continued from page 94) marry, and return home after a few years— health, happiness, money, every thing gone. You see, I’m not like the American we’ve all heard about who was so glad to have his daughter marry a titled foreigner that he consented to a clause being intro- duced into the marriage contract which per- mitted the husband to keep a mistress with- out it being a cause for divorce.’ “Need we discuss such improbable cases: The Amb x: ¥ pulled himself together and stood up. “I don’t think we need dis- cuss any part of this matter. We’re losing time.” His voice grew very much gentler and he laid his hand on Stanlau’s arm. “I don’t blame you for loving Kitty; every- body does. God knows she’s all the world to me. But as for my giving my consent to her marrying any one but an American— never, sir!” Stanlau drew back with such a quick movement that the Ambassador’s hand slipped abruptly from his arm. ‘Then, Your Excellency,” he said, his voice for the first time showing emotion, “T regret to tell you that your Government’s wishes are doomed to failure.” The Ambassador was caught thoroughly unprepared for such a statement. His first gesture was an abrupt, short laugh; then followed a long, concentrated stare into Stanlau’s eyes; and finally an ominous clenching of the fists and a step nearer. “You scoundrel!” he said at last, with heavy, laboured breathing. ‘‘Have you got the cheek to stand there and insult me?” Stanlau did not flinch. A deep flush was the only emotional sign he gave. “I have meant no insult.” “You have attempted to bribe me!” >” “Vou misunderstood me. I love your daughter. I am willing to stake every thing on winning her—even if it is necessary to betray my party. That is what love means to men of my country!’ ‘And you expect such a declaration will win Kitty’s love!” The Ambassador’s words rang with contempt. Stanlau lowered his eyes and smiled. “I have already won her love, Your Excellency. She has consented to become my wife.” HE Ambassador’s laugh rang out loud and clear. “My Kitty—marry you! That would be a joke!” “You have only to ask her,” quiet response. Still laughing the Ambassador went to a bell and rang it. While waiting he pulled out a handkerchief and mopped his face, chuck- ling to himself all the time. ‘Tell my daughter I must see her at once,” he said, when Arturo had entered. “Hold on! Tell her not to keep me waiting. I want to see her instanter. Neither of them spoke another word while they waited; and it was a long, miserable, portentous ten minutes. Kate came in very quietly, the black of her court mourning accentuating her pallor. She went straight to her father without see- ing Stanlau. Laying her hand on his shoulder —he had sat down by the table—she looked at him and smiled. “‘Did I keep you waiting very long? He reached for her hand, clasped it be- tween his own, then held it against his cheek. Suddenly she,saw Comte de Stanlau and fe came the ” started. “I thought you were alone, father! She drew away from him and bowed to Stanlau. The Ambassador still held her hand. “Kitty—I sent for you because—” he broke off and began laughing again. “It’s the biggest joke yet! Count Stanlau says you are going to marry him!” She looked at Stanlau; he bowed in a way which signified that the statement was cor- rect; then her eyes came back to her father and dwelt on him afiectionately. It was an inte rminable time before she spoke. “Yes, father, I am.” The Ambassador struggled up from his chair. ‘Stop joking, Kate! I’m serious!” She met his eyes squarely. “I am serious too, father.” Sudde nly he grasped her arm in a tight hold She winced with pain. “What! You, my daughter, would marry a foreigner!” She did not reply tightened on her arm. “You would? Answer me! Why?” “Because,” her words were hardly audible, “because I love him.” The Ambassador’s free hand swung out and grasped her other arm. He turned her roughly about so that she was facing him; then he drew her closer to him until their face s were only a few inches apart. “Look at me!” She made an effort to lift her hands and rest them against him, but his hold of her arms was too tight. “Took at me, Kitty!—straight in the eyes! His voice dropped to a lower pitch. W a he continued, it was full of the gentleness of deep love. ‘‘You’ve never lied to me in your at once. His hand 1917 1006 life. You are not going to now.” breathing hard. “Why are you marrying this man? You can’t love him!” Her eyes fell. A smothered sob escaped her, “Father—I’m sorry—” “You are not looking at me!” her chin with his hand. “For God’s sake, Kitty, tell me the truth!” His voice could not have held out much longer; it was al- ready breaking. ‘‘Do you love this man?” She looked straight into his eyes and answered. “ee” The Ambassador let go her arms, drew out his handkerchief and mopped his face, and looked around in a bewildered sort of way; then quite suddenly he sank down in the chair, stretched his arms out on the table before him and bowed his head on them. Kate gave a quick signal to Stanlau. He came to her, raised her hand to his lips and left the room without a word. She waited until the door was closed, then knelt down weing her father and laid her head against his nee. I left them there, no words spoken be- tween them. What is the use of words at such a time! And why should love be called a gift from God when it brings us only despair! He paused, He lifted nuit blanche followed Kate’s avowal ** that she loved Stanlau. After I had finished writing the record of the interview I went out on my little terrace. As I sat there in the soothing darkness the larger street lamps went out one by one; gradually the trams stopped running; the sounds of the city died away, and I was left alone in the oppressive silence. There is something ominous in the sleep of a great. city. I wondered how many there were about me who were sitting through those long, black hours with eyes wide open and staring towards the dismal day that would eventually come. As I sat there all sorts of thoughts surged through my mind. JT he most insistent of all was what I still think is a true explanation. Kate does not love Stanlau. She is only doing this to save her father. With the in- formation that I gave her she must have gone to her stepmother, forced the truth about the cable from her and made Stanlau promise to save her father as the condition upon which she would marry him. As I went back and traced her change of manner to me, I grew more and more convinced of the certainty of my deductions. It was almost immediately after I had confessed to her my suspicions that the change had come. Each detail en- forced this belief. And her note to me was only the culmination of her decision that she alone could save her father. It seemed fan- tastic that she should have taken it upon herself to make this sacrifice, and yet every time she had spoken of her father from our very first meeting, each time she had talked to me of him, she had shown a depth of af- fection which would make such a sacrifice a sort of compensating expression of her love. What Kate was willing to do stirred me out of the mere commonplace existence I had been leading. I lifted my head and drew in the cool night air with a sense of exhilara- tion. She had shown me what could be done; she had done more than that—she had brought to life in me a determination to save her which nothing will now quell. I thought I loved her before; I worshi up her now. The city lights, paling in the dawn, found me on the terrace. Still I did not go in. The gradually increasing distinctness of my sur- roundings came with messages of hope. The rugged mountains, looming invincible out of the mists, were full of words of strength; the soft pale pinks and greys of the sea spoke calm; the tingling vibrations of the awakening city rose to me with that feeling of inward force and life which means vanquished dis- couragement. The day had come, and with it strength and courage. . . . WENT to the Embassy before office hours. My room adjoins the Ambassador’s. The green baize door which separates our rooms was closed. I opened it carefully and looked in. The Ambassador was already at his desk, though evidently he had not yet begun the day’s work. He was sitting motionless, staring straight before him, the pile of un- opened mail lying unseen and untouched. His attitude was poignantly expressive of his thoughts. There is nothing more tragic than a man sitting alone, silent, motionless, brood- ing upon his sorrows. I closed the door with- out his having seen me. I was not ready yet to talk to him. Without a moment’s delay I sat down and wrote Kate a note. I wasted no words in argument; I demanded an interview and told her I woul laccept no excuses. Having sealed the envelope, I rang for Arturo and, while waiting for him, turned towards the window. It is spring now, resplendent, gorgeous, sudden spring; so different from the timi advances a withdrawals of our spring at home. Here it comes in one night. (Continued on page 102) i ean~

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»T aused, LITying ed her, lifted ; sake, could vas al- lan?” s and >w out e, and i way; in the ' table n. 1. He Ds and waited down nst his on be- rds at called 3 only ivowal I had erview e. surged of all ation. ; only he in- e gone ut the lise to which k and grew nty of liately icions iil en- e was at she vn Motor Mode , m our talked wie is set by the r love. ne out = a Hudson Super-Six done; had D save ught I The motor-world looks each season to Hudson; for Hudson creates mode. Not a line or de- ; tail is plagiarized. We make it unnecessary to buy custom-made bodies for exclusiveness in The design. This spring, on Fifth Avenue, on the parkways and boulevards, observe the closed cars ” The that pass, for more and more are being used for all-year service. The finest are Hudsons. Our two convertible models have wide vogue. spoke In no car at any price begun luxury, restrained in the is found such sumptuous excellence of good taste. Limousine and Town Car upholstering is done in our new two-tone effect. You have a wide range of choice in hues and tints. The handles, the telephones, the dainty clock are all finished in French enamel. Every convenience is at your hand. At right, the woman’s vanity box, with places for card case, perfume, toilet whims. At left, the man’s smoking service. Both fit flush in the sides. A step-flash illumines the opening of the doors. Inside the lights are diffused through a specially tinted glass. Phaeton, 7-passenger r . . $1650 Town Car e 1950 Cabriolet, 3-passenge ‘ a Touring Sedan . : > : ‘ 2175 HUDSON MOTOR CAR COMPANY, Detroit, Michigan (All prices f. o. b. Detroit) They are the Touring Sedan, seven-passenger, en- closed, and the Cabriolet, or three-passenger type. The convertible principle is identical in both—sound, simple, facile. The eight Hudson closed models comprise an ab- solutism of design. To persons sensitive of beauty, their serene, thoroughbred poise will appeal as kind to kind. They join luxury and serviceability in an exquisite unity. The Hudson Super-Six closed cars are for men who prize endurance and superlative performance, and for women who seek true beauty. $2925 Town Car Landaulet ° ° - $3025 Limousine . . ° ° ° ° 2925 Limousine Landaulet ° ° ° 3025 101 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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The American Ambassador (Continued from page 100) WATE er oS Looking through the window I saw the voice rose to a nervous, trembling pitch and garden en féte: crocuses, hyacinths, borders of suddenly broke. “I can’t talk to you any fragrant violets, flaming crimson Judas more now,” she began, again calm. “But Fi A aaa TTR ES css Te 5S Se ee LIZZ. Yj. abrics that are influencin trees, and over all, this dazzling, joyous sun. In the midst of this beauty I caught sight of a black-robed figure bending over and picking violets. It was Kate, with the sun gleaming on her hair. I went straight out to her, holding the note in my hand. She saw me coming, rose, smiled in the silent way I love, and gave me her hand. She looked brighter than the day before; she was not so pale and her eyes, though still strangely sad, glowed with calm determination. “Kate,” I said, “I have just written you this note. I wish to speak to you. I must do so at once.” She looked at me with a quick change of you must understand now; forgive me if you can, for I must seem heartless and capricious; surely though,” this with an anxious look of enquiry, “you see how wrong it would be to tell my father?” I shook my head. “I don’t believe you.” She held out her hands with a gesture of helplessness. ‘Then there is nothing more for us to say. If you insist upon telling my father you will only break his faith in his wife; you will add shame to his sorrow at losing me; you will make him suspect Comte de Stanlau; you will make me very unhappy; and what will you gain? Nothing now can prevent me from marrying the man I love— nothing—nothing!” the fashion Li explanation “T am glad that you know,” she said, after a shining in her eyes. “I never thought you would take it this way.” ; \\ expression—a sort of sudden fear that made She rose and looked towards the house. \ the little colour fade from her face. Without Seeing her father at the window she struggled hy \ speaking she lead the way to the stone bench with a smile and waved her hand. Then she if \\\ by the fountain and sat down. Her attitude turned back to me and looked at me through ih \ was one of patient waiting. . ; a short silence. ¥ \\ * » L e “T overheard your conversation with your i \ tt WTC. Qua wly father yesterday,” I burst out. “I mean “ pD° you believe me now?” bE \ a when you told him you were going to marry _ I shook my head. ji \ 'ominates ano Comte de Stanlau.” She flashed a look of “Ts it because you don’t want to believe b \\ ° scorn at me. I hurried on: “It was at your me?” i \ the variety of’ father’s request. He wanted a record of his I did not answer. saa : \ B) . talk with Stanlau. Your part in it was un- Forgive _ for hurting you!” She came in \ expected.” . nearer and held out her hand. There were : \ wea ves an cO Ortings The appeared satisfactory. tears in her voice, and I thought I saw them ause. “I was going to write you.” is practically unlimited ZZ \ Sta, rr Y// \« \ ' DISTINCTIVE DREsS FABRICS WAY QA AN Georgette Satin CG Service Satin for Sport and General “Wear (anella She. Jersey Cloth of Quality | Syl vette (She Cristocrat of Sport Silks “Trico Serge The Serge with the (Stockinet Weave Haas BROTHERS producers of 417 FIFTH AVENUE ano 3-5-7 EAST 37™= STREET nner) NEW YORK Ask Your Dressmaker or Tailor to Show You HAAS BROTHERS’ Fabrics eoranenevenneanecanerenenennemnerny Suddenly I bent forward and took her hand firmly in mine. “Kate, this can’t go on. You don't love him. I know why you are doing this.” She drew her hand away and stood up. “Do you expect me to let you talk to me in this way? By what right—” “The right you gave me when you promised to be my wife. The right I have because I told you about the cable. It is all very plain. You know your stepmother gave Stanlau the cable, and you are sacrificing yourself to save your father. I am going to tell him everything.” She sat down quickly and let the violets slip unnoticed to the ground. “You would not dare to tell my father!” “Why not?” “Because—” she stopped helplessly. “Because you know he would not accept your sacrifice. That is the reason I shall tell him. You have made him miserable enough already. Do you think when he finds out that you do not love Stanlau—and he is bound to find it out sooner or later—that he could bear it? That would be worse to him than any disgrace!” HE met my eyes as steadily as she had met her father’s the day before; she even went further, she smiled. ‘You are wofully mis- taken. I do love Comte de Stanlau.” “Oh, Kate!—why say such a thing to me?” She looked away and was silent a little while as if choosing carefully the words that followed: ‘You must listen to me, and you must try to understand.” She stopped. I saw her hands clasp together with the effort at continuing. “I thought I loved you when I promised to marry you. We were both like children together, weren’t we? Every- thing was gay and light and carefree. We had both come into this life at the same time. It was full of amusement and interest, heaps of fun—only that, until my father’s honour was at stake. Then, quite suddenly, it all became desperately serious. . . . I knew that my father was much more involved than he admitted. I love him too much for him to hide anything from me. . . . Then you told me of your suspicions. I went to my stepmother and demanded to know the truth. She denied everything and laughed at the serious way in which I took it. . . . When I talked to Comte de Stanlau about it, he told me that it had never been his intention to ruin my father; however he admitted to me the cable was in his possession and that if he did not use the information contained in it he would be a traitor to the people who were trusting him—not only to them but to his country. Then, he told me,” her voice grew very low and less steady, “that he would be willing to do even that through his love for me. It would mean his having to leave his country for ever; but he was willing to do this, and much more, if it would save my father and make me happy.” Her voice died away to a whisper. “And you believe him?” “IT must. Why shouldn’t I?” “And you will marry him for that reason alone?” “No—not for that reason alone.” Her calm answer to my questions made me feel that I was losing ground. This feeling brought exasperation. “You mean to insist that you love him?” Quite unexpectedly, and with a sudden flare of excitement, she turned and faced me. “Why should I not love him! Has he not shown himself worthy of any woman’s love? What better proof could I have of it!” Her “Why not?’ I questioned hotly. “Because—because—it seems such a long time ago when we were both children.” She stopped and let the extended hand, which I had refused, fail to her side. “I need your help now. I need your confidence too. Please—please don’t fail me!” I dropped my head in my hands. The whole wretched affair grew every moment harder to bear. ““Kate—Kate!” I cried, miserable in the battle between doubt and belief of her. “What do you want me to do?” “Only say nothing—and save every one’s happiness! . . . ” ““And my happiness! What of that?” I cried; but she had gone. When I got back to my office the Am- bassador was there impatiently waiting for me. ‘I saw you talking to Kate,” he burst out before I had closed the door. ‘Were you talking about—” he stopped and looked at me closely, ‘“‘about yesterday?” “Yes, sir, we were.” “What did she say?” “The same thing.” “That she is marrying that scoundrel be- cause she loves him?” I nodded. “T won’t believe it; I won’t.” He bit viciously at his cigar and threw it away. Then he began walking up and down the room. “Do you believe it?”’ he suddenly threw at me. I did not know how to answer him; I don’t know what I think. Her arguments have thrown me quite out of balance. She was so infernally reasonable in all her state- ments that I can not dismiss them from my thoughts. If Stanlau were a different sort it would be easy enough to believe that she was marrying him solely to save her father; but he is attractive, clever, and has a good deal of charm. Why should he not attract Kate as he does every other woman? I ex- pressed something of this to the Ambassador and was met with impatient contempt. “You don’t know what you are talking about! You don’t know her! I’m not fool enough to pretend I understand women; but I do think I understand my daughter. I’ve brought her up myself. I’ve had my eyes on her all the time—even when she was off at school. I’ve taught her myself—lots of things; I’ve made her read with me; I’ve discussed everything with her. And I know how she thinks.” He kicked a chair out of his way so as to walk more freely. “This isn’t like her. There’s something else back of it. And, by Heaven!” he stopped and pounded on my desk. “I’m going to get it out of her!’’ He resumed his thundering promenade. I leaned against the desk, wondering if he could be right. “Then you don’t think she loves him?’ I suggested, after a long pause. He stopped and scowled at me. “Don't talk piffle!” he cried angrily. And with another contemptuous glance at me he went out of the room and slammed the door. HE rest of the morning was fairly busy, fortunately for us all. A number of people called to see the Ambassador; in fact, there is a constant stream of people at the Embassy every day. There is a prevalent belief at home that an Embassy has very little work to do. I thought so too until I became a part of one. ‘There is a great deal to do. What?—people ask. To begin with, there is always a big stack of mail every morning. Begging letters from indigent (Continued on page 104) Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 102

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ve— louse, ggled n she rough elieve came were them tT you long She ich I your too. The ment 1 the her. one’s I ex- sador lking fool ; but I’ve es on ff at s of I’ve know ut of This back and et it rade. if he im?’ don't with went yusy, r of fact, . the ilent very til I deal vith, very gent

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103 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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ar tea ae Cit SS Ke SA ae ~ BY arama TO THEIR MAJESTIES THE KING AND QUEEN CRICHTON BROS. of London GOLDSMITHS and SILVERSMITHS In New York: 636, Fifth Avenue In Chicago: 622, S. Michigan Avenue in London: 22, Old Bond Street ONE OF A PAIR OF VERY FINE SILVER SAUCE BOATS MADE IN LONDON IN 1747 BY BENJAMIN WEST, gm a @ THE ABOVE HALL MARKS APPEAR ON THE SAUCE BOAT LD ENGLISH SILVER— au- thentic and rare pieces —the finest examples of the master silversmiths of the Queen Anne and Georgian periods —— sold in our New ork and Chicago Galleries at London prices because not duti- able. The House makes Table Silver of exclusive patterns— complete services always ready for de- livery. The House also offers hand- wrought Reproductions of famous models—single pieces or complete services. All goods purchased of Crichton Bros. are delivered express charges prepaid threughout the United States. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 Americans; letters asking for information on every subject under the sun; letters from | business concerns in America asking for statistics on this, that, and *be other thing; letters from provincial schocl-teachers de- manding an exhaustive and exhausting re- port on how schoolrooms in this country are ventilated; letters from naturalized Americans asking us to look up their family trees; and beyond all this, once a week, there is a pouch from the Department of State with all sorts of official business, and one which we send off filled with reports on political and financial questions. All this is primarily Dalton’s duty. He opens, sorts and distributes the mail. Atkins is requisi- tioned as much as possible, and there are two stenographers at work all the time. If this work could be done without interruption it would be easy enough; but there is the end- less line of visitors with passports to be viséed; requests for letters of introduction to every one from the King down, and tickets of admittance to places which are never open to the public; complaints against custom regulations; indeed they come for every imaginable and unimaginable reason. And to add to our task, the Ambassador has several letters of introduction presented to him almost every day. hey seem to come too from intimate friends, and of course mean a luncheon or dinner invitation to the bearer. He must know every living soul in the U. S. A. Indeed if any one scoffs at the work of an Embassy, let him try it for a while! This afternoon I took the bull by the horns, as the Ambassador would express it, and went in to see Mrs. Colborne. I knew that she would be alone at tea and I decided to act quickly. After all I do not think I have made a mistake. She gave me tea in a little room she has furnished with Venetian Louis Fifteenth things, a charming room, essentially feminine and thoroughly uncomfortable. She was as handsome as usual in a tea-gown, with a dis- creet concession towards the court mourning which she so consistently maintains. We dis- cussed only the social side of things—her obses- sion; and all the time she was talking fluently on this subject I was wondering what exactly her association with the Ambassador could be like. I suppose her attitude toward him is that world-old one of love for the one who gives her everything that her heart desires; his toward her is probably equally primitive —the love that comes from the pride of being the possessor of something beautiful. While she was lighting her delicately scented ciga- rette my opportunity came. O Miss Colborne is going to marry Comte de Stanlau,” I commented. | She smiled, though with just a bit of | effort. “Then she has told you! Isn’t it delight- ful? I think she is to be really congratulated. And think what a réclame for her father!’ “Réclame! How?” “There are not many American ambassa- dors who marry their daughters so success- fully. Of course, you know, Comte de Stanlau is quite the best parti here.”’ “T hardly think that will have much effect | on the Ambassador.” ‘Perhaps not now, but it will later, when he sees the inestimable advantages for Kate that will result from such an alliz ance. ‘Then you think she loves him?” She avoided my eyes, looked away and drew daintily at her cigarette. “I am in- clined to think I believe in the European idea of love for a young girl. They assert she doesn’t know what it means until she is married.” I let a few seconds pass in silence. Having been present at the scene which had taken place between her and Dalton about the cable, I was not sure that my next remark would not cause a similar outburst. How- ever I took the plunge. Officious or not, I did not care—provided something were gained. “Then you do not think Miss Colborne’s discovery that Comte de Stanlau has the cable and that it was in his power to ruin the Ambassador had anything to do with her decision?” She listened first with a flush of anger; then, as I continued, the colour faded and her eyes opened wide in sincere amaze- ment “What do you mean by Comte de Stan- lau ruining my husband?” “Surely,” I exclaimed, “you read the cable!” She appeared on the point of confessing the whole thing. Her indecision, her re- sentment, her fear were plainly visible in her expression. In the end fear conquered. “T don’t know anything about political affairs,” she said. ‘‘Was—was it very im- portant?” It was my turn now to stare in amaze- ment. I had never thought her clever, but that she could be so stupid as this seemed | incredible. 104 | The American Ambassador (Continued from page 102) “You must have seen how worried the Ambassador was when it disappeared?” At this she appeared a little relieved. “John is always frightfully worried over any business affair.” “But, Mrs. Colborne,” I cried, “don’t you know that cable contained the most im- portant information with regard to the United States? Don’t you know that if it were made public your husband would be disgraced for life? He would be looked upon as a man without honour! He would be shunned by every one! UICKLY rising from her chair she started across the room, then stopped short and stood perfectly still. Her move- ments were undecided and without object. It was evident that she was struggling to control herself, and pethaps, too, to under- stand what I had told her. Her face, when she turned toward me, was strangely altered with conflicting eniotions. “T don’t understand,” she said, as if to herself. ‘“‘I don’t understand at all! Why wasn’t I told about this! If I had only known; if I had been advised! Surely,” the tears began to show in her eyes, “surely it is not so bad as you say! She sank down in a chair and covered her face with her hands. It was a strange sight to see her give way so completely. She is always so well-poised and self-satisfied and pleased with her surroundings that to see her sincerely distressed was almost fantastic. It seemed abnormal. And yet it was rather touching to see her brought face to face with her own deficiency. After all one can not condemn a human being for the qualities— or lack of them—for which Nature is re- sponsible. After a little while she dried her tears and looked up. “But what is going to be done? What can I do? This marriage can not take place! I am beginning to understand it all now. I know why Kate is so strange and sad. How foolish I have been!” She clasped her hands on her breast; the tears rolled down her cheeks. “How stupid I have been! I shall never forgive myself! One of her phrases made my heart leap. “Why did you say the marriage could not take place?” “Because she does not love him. She never has. She is only doing it to save her father.” I grasped her hands warmly. “Mrs. Col- borne, can you make her admit that?” “Of course I can, * she exclaimed, surprised at my que stion. ‘She realizes that I know she doe ssn’t. : “If you can only make her confess it. But there is only one way. She believes you gave Comte de Stanlau the cable.” She turned towards me, her eyes blazing, her face deadly in its pallor. ‘‘She believes I—?” Suddenly she stopped and put out a hand to support herself against a chair. made a step towards her. She motioned me back. ‘Does John—does my husband know this?” “Not yet. It may not be necessary for him to know.” Her expression changed instantly. “You have not told him?” Then as quickly she was again trembling: “But Kate has!’ “No one has told the Ambassador. He—” I broke off, hearing his voice in the next Toom. I have been thinking over my interview with Mrs. Colborne ever since I left her. Her manner appears to me to be a frank con- fession that she gave the cable to Stanlau; and yet in some way her distress was sincere. It rang true. I don’t think she was acting. The only reasonable explanation seems to be that she never before considered the matter seriously. Indeed I doubt very much if she read the cable. If she can only make Kate confess that she does not love Stanlau! If she can! If she can! March 12, 19— WO weeks more and Parliament meets; yet everything appears to be in exactly the same state that it was a fortnight ago with this exception—the Ambassador has had several long interviews with Comte de Stanlau. As far as I can make out the Am- bassador is letting him think that he has accepted Kate’s decision as final. Stanlau has outlined very frankly his plan for hood- winking his party. He has bought the votes of four of the Socialists so that when the vote is cast there will be a preponderance in favour of us—enough to pass the bill at once. The Amb: assador told me this only two days ago. ‘Then we are practically safe,” I said. “You've won!” ““My Government has won,” he answered, looking at me with a new expression in his eyes. “I have lost.” I knew what he meant, for, strive as hard as he had done, he had been able to get nothing more from Kate than she had told him at first. He has given all of his free time (Continued on page 106) te. ee (iz

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EPS LS IR a cae |e ¢j Made in U. S. A. At All Good Shops. The Bride, Miss ------, wore VAN RAALTE NET For samples and information, address Dept. F, E. & Z. Van Raalte, Fifth Ave. at 16th St., N.Y. C. a gown of Look for this little white ticket on each yard. 'C) VAN RAALTE MAKE ‘e) Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Basar, April, 1917 | The to her; they have ridden together; they have taken long walks; I have seen them often sitting in the garden when I arrive in the morning at the Embassy; yet each time that he leaves her I know that he has not succeeded in getting her to modify her first statement. Even Mrs. Colborne, who was so assured in my interview with her that Kate did not love Stanlau, has begun to believe she was mistaken. “T won’t believe it! I won’t believe it!” the Ambassador would exclaim from time to time. “I'll break her down yet.” “Even if you do, what then?” He looked at me as if wondering that such stupidity could exist. ‘Don’t you see? Hasn’t Stanlau, in his assurance and con- fidence in Kate, put himself entirely in my power!” “He can well afford to do that,” I com- mented bitterly. “She will never fail him— once her promise has been given “Don’t I know that!” he frowned per- plexedly. “That is what is tying my hands now. If she would only tell me the truth I could go straight ahead and plan my cam- paign. It’s all here,” he tapped his fore- head, “‘clear enough. Only,” he sat down and leaned his head upon his hands, “‘if she loves that man I won’t do anything. I couldn’t. He sat so long silent in this unusually despondent attitude that I began to wonder if he too had not given up all hope, yet would not confess it. Then, quite without any ‘leading up to the subject, he began to talk about his first wife, Kate’s mother. He did it very simply and with touching ingenuous- ness. He described the beginning of his love for her, the courtship, their marriage and the few years they had lived together. There was something very tender and sweet, almost poetic, in the way he told it; and I saw that it was the real part of his life, that idy] that every man carries with him to the end, and perhaps beyond, in his secret heart. Kate | to him is the living symbol of that memory. | No wonder he clings to her more than to j anything else in his life. “—E verything Was a long way from moving smoothly in those days,” he said, with a far- off reflective look in his eyes. “We were mighty poor at first. But she knew how to save and how to make me think she had everything she wanted. And when I began to get up in the world and things were com- ing easy, she still made me think everything was just as it ought to be.” Again he sat through a long silence, his head once more lowered in his hands. “I didn’t know until a month before she died that she had been ill for two years. She had known all along that she could not last long, and yet she wouldn’t tell me until I had to know. Men are always bragging about how strong they are; but beside a fine, brave, noble woman we are nothing but babies.” H® got up, brushed his hand across his eyes and reached for his handkerchief. “So, you see, that’s the sort of a mother Kate had, and that’s the sort of spirit I’m up against now. She'll stand anything if she feels she has got to. So—there we are!” Once more I put my question of what could be done if Kate admitted she did not love Stanlau. “Wait and see, young man,” he said, sud- denly aglow with enthusiasm. “TE said I was no good at this foreign intriguing. But I’m going to show them that a raw, uncultivated bounder of an American—Oh, I know well enough they all call me that!—can play their tricky game just as well as they can. It isn’t my profession—thank God!—but if I’m forced into it to protect my country and, more that that, save my daughter, you can bet your bottom dollar I'll play it! “Even if she loves him she ought to be saved from him.” He turned on me swiftly. “Do you know something you haven’t told me? I was thinking of that conversation be- tween Victoire and Atkins the day of my arrival. “T suppose, though, he has to consider a wife who will bring him a large dot.” |} “What do you know about Kate’s dot, as you ¢ all it?’ | “TY heard that there was a story current in Washington that you said you would give her an enormous marriage portion.” “Who told you that?” “A woman. “Of course—which one?” “Comtesse Victoire. io wonder how she got hold of that! “Her brother heard it when he was in Washington.” “Ahem!” He held his chin reflectively | and gre udu ally his expression ch inged into a smile. “I’m glad you told me that.” “Why, sir?” “Tt all helps in building up the case against him—the case which I’m steadily presenting to Kate. Don’t you see what a | ticklish matter it is? I’ve got to work all the time to get Stanlau in a place where he can’t ” 106 American (Continued from page 104) Ambassador get out; and still I’ve got to do it so that J can either hold him or let him go. “Let him go!” I exclaimed, incredulous, “Yes, let him go,” he repeated slowly, “For that i is what I’ll do if she loves him.” From day to day the situation grows more and more interesting. The Ambassador was sent for by the King a few days ago, and they had a long talk on the coming meeting of Parliament. It appears that His Majesty is keener than any one to get the bill through, and also has less power than any one to accomplish it. “What’s the use of this King business anyhow!” exclaimed the Ambassador. “He’s nothing but a figure-head and a blamed poor one at that! Has to do whatever his Prime Minister tells him to, besides being worried to death all the time for fear he’ll be kicked out of. the palace and his country made a republic! Why, the President of the United States is a medieval tyrant beside him!” ie seems that he spent two hours urging the Ambassador not to leave a stone un- turned to get the bill passed. It has been the same with the Prime Minister and the Minister for Foreign Affairs. All of them are anxious for it and yet feel that Stanlau will defeat them. The Ambassador leads them on, no doubt getting more of an insight into their politics than any American has ever done, yet knowing all the time that every- thing has been arranged. Of late the several Ambassadors have been assiduously cultivating us all. Mr. Colborne feels sure that Stanlau is leading them on in the belief that his interests are all in favour of them; and they no doubt are counting on the Ambassador letting slip something that will throw light on the subject. It has been interesting to see the British Ambassador and our Ambassador together; both represent nations who speak the same language—with rather violent differences of accent and uses of words; both of them broadly speaking, stand for the same ideals. It has made me realize how far we have grown away from our cousins across the sea. In reality we are no longer similar. It may be due in great part to climatic influence, but undoubtedly, side by side with the English- man, an American has a certain impressive virility which the other lacks. We approach people and things with a geniality, a frank interest, a bluff breeziness which, though often wrongly called cock-sureness, is merely an expression of our sincerity; whilst an English- man advances with a carefulness that sug- gests timidity and distrust. Lord Gerald Taskerton and John T. Colborne, side by side, make this contrast striking. Their physical differences accentuate it. One thin, tall, awkwardly correct and cold, suggesting a water colour; the other sturdy, big, friendly and warm—an oil-painting in vivid colours. In fact my Ambassador bears comparison to those of other nations with the advantage all in his favour. I had the feeling, as a great many people at home still have, that our ambassadors are a source of amusement to other diplomatists and to the people of the countries to which they are appointed. It may be in some ways due to change of cus- toms, et cetera, but to-day the American Ambassador is far from being a laughing- stock. Wherever he goes he is accepted as a generous, broad-minded, intelligently quick- witted and active man; more than that, he is looked upon invariably as a man of high moral standards and integrity. Even if he is a bit gauche in a drawing-room, Europeans are beginning to realize that his other quali- ties are what have made us a great nation. Lately the Ambassador has fallen into the habit of sitting alone in the little room up- stairs, the Tower of the Dwarf. Several times during the past fortnight I have dined with them en famille, and immediately after dinner he has left us and gone up there. Not that I blame him very much, for the dinners have been far from gay. Mrs. Colborne has grown nervous and distraite, even social matters appear to have lost their zest for her; Kate, pale and determined whenever I see her face in repose, attempts to keep up the conversa- tion, but it is such an obvious effort that no one has the heart to respond; and the Am- bassador himself has developed a taciturnity that throws a wet blanket over us all. Dal- ton’s agreeable manner has become perfunc- tory. Indeed Atkins is the only one who goes happily on in his carefree, scoffing way. N RS. COLBORNE was roused to a re- + newed interest yesterday when a royal messenger arrived from the palace with a note from the court chamberlain informing the Ambassador that Their Majesties, the King and Queen, would dine at the Embassy on the evening of the first of April at seven o’clock. It is their custom, I understand, to dine with each Ambassador once every year, and as seven o’clock is the royal dinner hour, they demand the same time of their hosts. The Ambassador, after reading the royal announcement, slapped his knee jovially. (Continued on page 116)

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Set aaa Replicas OST of the jewels you admire on ady Crusoe (Continued from page 50) I can’t tell you how we used to feel. You see we were young and in love, and life was a pretty good thing to us. There was one perfect night when the hills were flooded with moonlight. We seemed all alone in a lovely world and I whispered: “Oh, Billy, Billy, and some folks think that there isn’t any God—” And Billy put his arm around me and pat- ted my cheek, and we didn’t say anything for a long time. It was just a week later that Lady Crusoe came. I knew that some one was in the house as soon as we passed the second gate. The door was still closed, and the shutters were not opened, but I heard a clock strike— a ship’s clock—with bells. I clutched Billy. “Listen,” I said. He heard it, too. ‘Who in the dickens? he demi inded. ‘here’s somebody in the house—’ “Nonsense in “Billy there must be, and we can’t sit on the porch.” “You stay here, and I’ll go around to the back.” But I wouldn’t let him go alone. At the back of the house a window was open, and then we were sure. “We'd better leave,” I said, but Billy insisted that we stay. “If they are new people, I'll find out their names, and come up to-morrow and get their orders.” We went around to the front door and knocked and knocked, but nobody answered. ” ’ joke, but it might look like that to other people.” Are you going to stay?” es. “T’ll come up in the _morning for orders,’ said Billy promptly. “I keep the grocery store at Jefferson Corners.’ “Oh,” she said, and seemed to hesitate; “there won’t be any orders.” Billy stared at her. ‘But there isn’t any other store.” “Robinson Crusoe didn’t have stores, did he? He found things and lived on the land. And [am Lady Crusoe.’ “Really?” I asked her. “T’ve another name—but—if people around here question you—you won’t tell them, will you, that I am here—?” HE: said it in such a pretty Pleading fashion that of course we promised. It was late when we had to go. I insisted that we should leave what remained of the supper, and she seemed glad to get it. ‘“ You are nice friendly savages,” she said, with that twinkle in her eyes, “and I am very grateful. Come into the house and let me show you my cloc She showed us more than the clock. I hadn’t dreamed in those days when Billy and I sat alone on the steps of the treasures that were shut up behind us. The old furni- ture was dusty, but all the dust in the world couldn’t hide its beauty. The dining-room was hung with cobwebs, but when the candles women of wealth and So we sat down on the front step and pres- were lighted we saw the Sheffield on the old fashion are replicas. ently Billy said that we might as well eat sideboard, the Chinese porcelains, the Hep- It’s the rule now— our supper, for very evidently nobody was pelwhite chairs, the painted sheepskin > — even Queens wear duplicates. Their precious gems are left in safety vaults because Reproductions such as ours cannot be distinguished from the most costly jewelry. Henry W. Fishel & Sons’ Jewelry of Distinction is so exquisite, so per- fect in design and fin- ish, that close exami- nation increases your admiration of it. The beautiful Fishson Crystals exactly reproduce the natural diamond effect, and an exclusive method of setting in sterling silver makes the brilliancy per- manent. Fishson Pearls have all the soft oriental lustre of the finest Deep Sea pearls— and they retain their dainty wonderful charm. Look for the trademark on every piece. If your jeweler cannot supply you, communicate with us and we will see you are supplied. Write today for **Jewelry of Distinction’’ —our new booklet. It will give you a fresh concept of jewelry fashion. ¥, 126. st 22%4Shreet New ork hy signers & Makers of enry WN Fishel &c Sons at home. screen— DIDN’T feel a bit comfortable about it, but I opened our basket and got out our cups and plates, and Billy poured the coffee and passed the chicken and the bread and butter sandwiches. And just then the door creaked and the knob turned! My first impulse was to gather up the lunch and tumble it into the basket; but I didn’t. I just sat there looking up as calmly as if I were serving tea at my own table, and Billy sat there too looking mF The door opened and a voice said, “Oh, you are eating supper, may I have some? It was a lovely voice, and Billy jumped to his feet. A lovely head came after the voice. Just the head, peeping around—the body was hidden by the door. On the head was a lace cap with a gold rose, and the hair under the cap was gold. “You see, I just got up,” said the voice, “and I haven’t had any breakfast—’ Billy and I gasped. It was seven p. m., and the meal that we were serving was sup- per! “Do you mind my coming out?” said the voice. “I am not exactly clothed and in my right mind, but perhaps I'll do.” She opened the door wider and stepped down. I saw that her slippers had gold roses and that they were pale pink like the sunset. She wore a motor coat of tan cloth which covered her up, but I had a glimpse of a pink silk negligée underneath. She sat quite sociably on the steps with us. ct, am famished,” she said. “I haven't had a thing to eat for twenty four hours.” We ‘gasped again. “How did it happen? “TI was—shipwrecked,” she said, “in a motor-car—I am the only survivor—” Her eyes twinkled. ‘I'll tell you all about it pre ssently.’ Then she broke off and laughed. “But first will you feed a starving castaway?” Yet she didn’t really tell us anything. She ate and ate, and it was the prettiest thing to see her. She was dainty and young and eager like a child at a party. “How good everything is!’’ she said, at last with a sigh. “I don’t think I was ever so hungry in my life.” Billy and I didn’t eat much. You see we were too interested, and besides we had had our dinner. As I have said, she didn’t really tell us anything. “It was an accident, and I came up here. And the old clock that you heard strike belonged to my grandfather. He was an admiral, and it was his clock. I used to listen to it as a child. “What happened to the rest—?” Billy asked, bluntly. He was more concerned about the automobile accident than about her ancestors “Oh, do you mean the others in the car?” she came reluctantly back from the admiral and his ship’s clock. “I am sure I don’t know. And I am very sure that I don’t care.” “But were any of them killed?” “No—they are all alive—but you see— it was a shipwreck—and I floated away—by myself—and this is my island, and you are the nice friendly savages—’’ she touched Billy on the arm. He drew away a bit. I knew that he ae afraid she had lost her mind, but I had seen her twinkling eyes. “Oh, it’s all a joke!” I said. She shook her head. “It isn’t exactly a She pi ked out a lovely little pitcher and gave it to me. ; I did not learn until after- wards that it was pink lustre and worth a pretty penny. She paid in that way, you see, for her supper, and something in her manner made me feel that I must not refuse it. She did not ask us to come again, yet I was sure that she liked us. I felt that per- haps it was the grocery store which had made her hesitate. But whatever it was, I must confess that I was a little lonely as I went away. You see we had come to look forward to our welcome at the Empty House. We had known that we were the honoured guests of the flying squirrels and the lizards and of old Prince Charming. But now that the house was no longer empty, we would not be welcome. I was sorry that I had accepted the pink pitcher. I should have preferred to feel that I owed no favour to the lady with the twinkling eyes. It wasn’t long after our adventure at the Empty House that Billy asked William Watters to take a big load to a customer two miles out. But William couldn’t. He was working, he said, at a regular place. We couldn’t imagine William as being regular about anything. He and his mule were so irregular in their habits. They came and went as they pleased, and they would take naps whenever the spirit moved them. But now, as William said, he was “‘wukin’ regular”, and he refused to say for whom he worked. But we found out one day when he drove Lady Crusoe down in a queer old carriage with his mule as a prancing steed. He helped her descend as if she had been a queen, and she came in and talked to Billy. “You see, I’ve hunted up my friendly savages,” she said. “T’ve reached the end of my resources.” She gave a small order, and told Billy that she wasn’t at all sure when she could pay her bill, but that there was a lot of things in her old house which he could have for security. ILLY said gallantly that he didn’t need any security, and that her account could run as long as she wished and that he was glad to serve her. And he got out his pad and pencil and stood in that nice way of his at attention. I listened and looked through a window at the back. had seen her drive up, and she was stunning in the same tan motor-coat that she had worn when we first saw her. But she had on a brown hat and veil and brown shoes instead of the lace cap and rosy slippe Ts. She asked about me, and Billy told her that I was in the garden. And I was in the garden when she came out; but I had to run. She sat down in a chair on the other side of my little sewing-table and talked to me. It is such a scrap of a garden that there is only room for a tiny table and two chairs, but a screen of old cedars hides it from the road, and there’s a twisted apple-tree, and the fie Ids beyond and a glimpse of the mountains. “How is the island?” Billy asked her. She twinkled. “I have a man Friday.” “William W atte rs?” She nodded. ‘The Watters negroes have been our servants for generations. Am William thinks that he belongs to me. He cooks for me and forages. He shot two squirrels one morning and made me a Bruns- wick stew. But I couldn't stand that. You (Continued on page I10) ae) ee BN ae Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper’s Bazar, April, 1917 108

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TRAVELING GOODS TRAVELING GOODS That Reflect Your Personality HEN TRAVELING, your bag or suit case is almost as intimate a part of you as are your clothes or your jewelry. It is one of those noticeable personal belongings which do much to create the impression that you make upon the people with whom you come in contact. A Belber Bag or Suit Case fittingly reflects your personality because it possesses that atmos- phere of style that can come only from quality of materials and perfection of workmanship. | And it retains this unmistakable quality even | after months and years of use. Like fine lace, | it wears well with age. In a Belber Fitall bag or case, convenience goes hand in hand with service. The adjustable spaces with self-locking straps make it possible to hold as many, or as few, articles as you want to carry. You can get at them instantly without disturbing the other contents of your bag or case. Every Belber Wardrobe Trunk, Bag or Suit Case is the best at its price. On sale at good dealers everywhere. Look for the Belber Trade Mark. | Send for beautiful book, “Outwearing Travel,” illus- trating and describing Belber Traveling Goods. | The Belber Trunk & Bag Co. PHILADELPHIA, PA. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Basar, April, 1917 Lady Crusoe (Continued from page 108) see the squirrels are my friends.” I thought of the flying squirrels and the blue-tailed lizards and the old toad, and I knew how she felt. And I said so. She looked at me sharply, and then she laid her hand over mine: “Are you lonely, my dear?” I said that I was—a little. Billy had gone in to wait on a customer, so I dared say it. I told her that nobody had called. “But why not?” she demanded. “T think,” I said slowly, “‘it is because we live—over the store.” “T see.” And she did see; it was in her blood as well as in the blood of the rest of them. RESENTLY she stood up and said that she must go, and it was then that she noticed the work that was in my basket on the table. She lifted out a little garment and the red came into her cheeks. ‘Oh, oh!” she said, and stood looking at it. When she laid it down, she came around the table and kissed me. ‘‘What a dear you are!” she said, and then she went away. William Watters came in very often after that; but he said very little about Lady Crusoe. He was a faithful old thing, and he had evidently had instructions. But one | morning he brought a fine old Sheffield tray to Billy and asked him to take his pay out of it, and let Lady Crusoe have the rest in cash. William Watters didn’t call her “Lady Crusoe”, he called her “Miss Lily”, which didn’t give us the key to the situation in the least. Billy didn’t know how to value the tray, so he asked me. I knew more than he did, but I wasn’t sure. I told him to ad- vance what he thought was best, and to send it to the city and have it appraised, or what- ever they call it, so he did; and when the check from the antique shop came it was a big one. It wasn’t long after that that Lady Crusoe called on me. It was a real call, and she left a card. And she said as she laid it on the table: “As I told you, I’d rather the rest of the natives didn’t know—they haven't seen me since I was a child, and they think that I am just some stranger who rents the old place and who wants to be alone.’ After she had gone I picked up the card, and what I read there nearly took my breath away. There are certain names which mean so much that we get to look upon them as having special significance. The name that was on Lady Crusoe’s card had always stood in my mind for money—oceans of it. simply couldn’t believe my eyes, and I took it down to Billy. “Look at that,” I said, and laid it before him, ‘‘and she has asked us to supper for next Sunday!” Well, we couldn’t make anything of it. Why was a woman with a name like that down here with nothing to eat but the things that William Watters could forage for, and that Billy could supply from his little store, and that she paid for with Sheffield trays? We had supper that Sunday night in the great dining-room. There was a_ five- branched candlestick with tall white candles in the centre of the shining mahogany table and William Watters acted as butler. You never would have believed how well he did it. And after supper we had coffee on the front porch and looked out over the hills at the sunset, and the silver moon and the old toad came out from under his stone and sat with us. ADY CRUSOE was in a thin white dress which she had made for herself, and she talked of the old place and of her childhood there. But not a word did she say of why she had come back to live alone on the Davenant ancestral acres. It was her mother, we learned, who was a Davenant, and it was her mother’s father who was the old admiral. She said nothing of the man whose name was on her card. It was as if she stopped short when she came to that part of her life, or as if it had never been. She took me up-stairs after a while and left Billy to smoke on the porch. She said that she had something that she wanted me to see. Her room was a huge square one at the southwest corner of the house. There was a massive four-poster bed with faded blue satin curtains, and there was a fireplace with fire-dogs and an Adam screen. Lady Crusoe carried a candle, and as she stood in the centre of the room she seemed to gather all of the light to her, like the saints in the old pictures. She was so perfectly lovely that I almost wanted to cry. I can’t explain it, but there was something pathetic about her beauty. She set the candle down and opened an old brass-bound chest. She took out a roll of cloth and brought it over and laid it on the table beside the candle. “T bought it with some of the money that your Billy got for my Sheffield tray,” she said. Then she turned to me with a quick motion and laid her hands on my shoulders. “Oh, you very dear—when I saw you making those little things—I knew that—that the good Lord had led me. Will you—will you— 110 show me—how?” way home. “She doesn’t know anything about sey. ing, and she hasn’t any patterns, and I am to go up every day, and William Watters wil] come for me with his mule—”’ Then I cried about her a little, because it seemed so dreadful that she should be there all alone, without any one to sustain her and cherish her as Billy did me. “Oh, Billy, Billy,” I said to him, “I’q rather live over a grocery store with yoy than live in a palace with anybody else—” And Billy said, “Don’t cry, lady love, you are not going to live with anybody else,” And he put his arm around me, and as we walked along together in the April night it was like the days when we had been young lovers, only our joy in each other was deeper and finer, for then we had only guessed at happiness, and now we knew— Well, I went up every day. William Wat- ters came for me, and I carried my patterns and we sat in the big west room, and right under the window a pair of robins were build- ing a nest. We watched them as they worked, and it seemed to us that no matter how hard we toiled those two birds kept ahead. ‘I never dreamed,” Lady Crusoe remarked one morning, “that they were at it all the time like this.” “You wait until they begin to feed their young,” I told her. ‘People talk about being as free as a bird. But I can tell you that they slave from dawn until dark. | have seen a mother bird at dusk giving a last bite to one squalling baby while the father fed another.” Lady Crusoe laid down her work and looked out over the hills. ‘‘The father,” she said, and that was all for a long time, and We stitched and stitched, but at last she spoke straight from her thoughts: ‘‘How dear your husband is to you!” R “That’s what husbands are made for.” “Some of them are not, dear,” her voice was hard, “some of them expect so much and give so little—” I told Billy about it on the KEPT still and presently she began again. “They give money—and they think that is—enough. They give jewels—and think we ought to be profoundly grateful.” “Well, my experience,’ I told her, “is that the men give as much love as the women She looked at me. ‘What do you mean?” “Love costs them a lot.” “Tn what way?” “They work for us. Now there’s Billy’s grocery store. If Billy didn’t have me, he’d be doing things that he likes better. You wouldn’t believe it, but Billy wanted to study law, but it meant years of hard work before he could make a cent, and he and I would have wasted our youth in waiting— and so he went into business—and that’s a big thing for a man to do for a woman—to give up a future that he has hoped for— and that’s why I feel that 1 can’t do enough for Billy—”’ “T don’t see why you should look at it in that way,” she said, and her eyes were big and bright. ‘‘Women are queens, and they honour men when they marry them—”’ “If women are queens,” I told her, “men are kings—Billy honoured me—” She smiled at me. “Oh, you blessed dear—”’ she said, and all of a sudden, she came over and knelt beside me. ‘What would you think of a man who married a woman whom the world called beautiful and brilliant, and whom—whom princes wanted to marry— And he was a very plain man, except that he had a lot of money—amillions and millions—and after he married the woman whom he had said that he worshipped, he wanted to make just an every-day wife of her. He wanted her to stay at home and look after his house. He told her one night that it would be a great happiness for him if he could come in and find her warming—his slippers. And he said that his ideal of a woman was one who—who—held a child in her arms—” I looked down at her. “Well, right in the beginning,” I said, ‘I should like to know if the woman loved the man—” She stared at me and then she stood up. “If she did, what then? She had not married to be—his slave—” I pointed to the mother robin on_ the branch below. ‘I wonder if she calls it slavery! You see—she is so busy—building her nest she hasn’t time to think whether Cock Robin is singing fewer love songs than he sang early in the spring.” She laughed and was down on her knees beside me again. “Oh, you funny little practical thing! But it wasn’t because I missed the love songs. He sang them. But because I couldn’t be an every-day wife—” “What kind of wife did you want to be?” “JT wanted to travel with him alone—I planned a honeymoon in the desert, and we had it—and I planned after that to sail the (Continued on page 112) PIL ltt +)

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right juild- nd it 1 we lever one time their bout you on last ther and she and ke = It Rings True &} —————_— OOL, crisp and clear—bell tones that will pleasantly at- tract the attention of the most in- different maid or butler. Its silvery notes so innocent will intrigue them from their dim retreat in the pantry and trick them into your presence where you can make known your modest needs. It is in- deed a pleasing sort of a bell to own—pleasing to the eye as well as the ear. Gold lined and exquisitely finished in enameled colors. At gift shops; let us tell you where to go. And the Polly Bell is merely one of the numerous useful and amusing novelties manufactured by the Bronze - Products Society, Inc. Owners of gift shops thus have the satisfaction of purchasing direct from the manufacturer. Price $2.50 Permit us to send a representative to you, or when in town drop in to see our things— hand painted Flower and Bird Picture Hooks, Curtain Holders and Door Knock- ers, Ash Trays, Nut Bowls, Paper Knives, Bronzes, etc., etc. The Bronze-Products Society, Inc. 456 Fourth Avenue, New York City ——— Our Colors Are Fast now in its new garb of gayly patterned SPORT STRIPES of DARING COLOR COMBINATIONS is ready for your in- spection at all the leading stores. SILVERBLOOM possesses that exclusive appeal that women of distinction demand. A season of tubbing will take from this glorious cloth nothing of its silvery lustre or dye-fast colors. For service and beauty choose SILVERBLOOM. Ask your nearest retailer or send to us LESHER, WHITMAN & CO., Inc. Broadway and 19th Street New York Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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7a ee = ORCESTERS HIRE SA UcE LEA &PERRINS SAUCE ‘The ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE *-From the Recipe of a NOBLEMAN 11 the (OUNTY he this Yeare of Good Grace, as in ye Bygone Dayes, all Bons Vivants and Gourmets Unite in Praise of that Flavoursome SAUCE made by Messrs. LEA& PERRINS of WORCESTER, and known wherever Goode Cookery bec? Served with Due Finesse; CAE ROAST MEATS become More Savoury; STEAKS, CUTILETS, CHOPS, more Delicate and Rare; FISH more Spirited; CURRIES°® richer and more Pungent; GRAVIES Spicier; SOUPS more Tasty; GAME more Piquant; and SALADES most Exquisite. yo y yo So 2 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 Lady Crusoe (Continued from page 110) seas to the land of Nowhere—and we sailed and then—I wanted to go to the high plains— and ride and camp—and into the forests to hunt and fish—but he wouldn’t. He said that we had wandered enough. He wanted to build a house—and have me warm—his slippers—” ; “And so you quarreled?” “We quarreled—great hot heavy quarrels and we said things—horrid things—that we can’t forgive—” She was sobbing on my shoulder and I said softly: “Things that you can’t forgive?” “Yes. And that he can’t. That’s why I ran away from him.” I waited. “IT couldn’t stand it to see him going around with his face stern and set and not like my lover’s. And he didn’t speak to me except to be polite. And he asked people to go with us—everywhere. And we were never alone—” | “What had you said to make him—like that?” She raised her head. “I told him that I— hated him—” “Oh, oh She knelt back on her heels. “Tt was a dreadful thing to say, wasn't it? That’s why I ran away. I couldn't stand it. I knew.it was a thing no man— could—forgive—” I smoothed her hair and rocked her back and forth while she cried. It was strange how much of a child she seemed to me. And I was only the wife of a country grocer and lived over the store, and she was the wife of a man whose name was known from east to west, and all around the world. But you see she hadn't learned to live. Neither have I, really. But Billy has taught me a lot. I think it was a comfort for her to feel that she had confided in me. But she made me promise that whatever happened I wouldn't let him know. “Unless I—die,” she said, and she was as white as a lily, ‘Sunless I die, and then you can—set him—free—” ILLY was sorry that I had promised. “Somehow I feel responsible, sweetheart, and I'll bet her poor husband is almost crazy.” “Would you be, Billy?” He caught me to him so quickly that he almost shook the breath out of me. ‘Don't ask a thing like that,’ he said, and his voice didn't sound like his own. “If anything should happen to you—if anything should happen—I should—I should—oh, why will women ask things like that—?” In the days that followed, Billy didn’t want me out of his sight. He even hated to have me go up to the Davenant house with William Watters. ‘Take care of her, Wil- liam,” he would say, and stand looking after us. William and I got to be very good friends. He was a wise old darky, and he was devoted to Lady Crusoe. He usually served tea for us out under the trees, unless it was a rainy day, and then we had it in the library. It was on a rainy day that Lady Crusoe said: “I wonder what has become of William. I haven’t seen him since you came. I have hunted and called, and I can’t find him.” He appeared at tea time, however, with a plate of hot waffles with powdered sugar be- tween. When his mistress asked him about his mysterious disappearance, he said that he had cleaned the attic. “But, William, on such a day?” “T kain’t wuk out in the rain, Miss Lily, so I wuks in—” That was all he would say about it, and after we had had our tea, she said to me, “There are a lot of interesting things in the attic. Let’s go up and see what Willie has been doing —” The dim old place was as shining as soap and water could make it, and there was the damp smell of suds. There was the beat of the rain on the roof, and the splash of it against the round east window. Through the west window came a pale green light, and there was a view over the hills. As we be- came accustomed to the dimness our eyes picked out the various objects—an old loom like a huge spider under a peaked gable, a chest of drawers which would: have set a collector crazy, Chippendale chairs with the seats out, Windsor chairs with the backs broken, gilt mirror frames with no glass in them—boxes—books—bottles—all the flot- sam and jetsam of such old establishments. Most of the things had been set back against the wall, but right in the middle of the floor was an object which I took at first for a small trunk. Lady Crusoe reached it first, and knelt beside it. She gave a little cry. “My dear, come here!” and I went to her, and in another moment, I, too, was on my knees. For the dark object was a cradle—a lovely hooded thing of mahogany, in which the Davenants had been rocked for generations. “William got it out,” Lady Crusoe said, | “ready to be carried down. Oh, my good old 112 man Friday! Do you mind if I cry a little, you very dear?” It rained a great deal that summer, and it was hot and humid. Billy and I longed for the cold winds that sweep across the sea on the North Shore, but we didn’t complain, for we had each other, and I wouldn’t exchange Billy for any breeze that blows. Lady Crusoe suffered less than I, for she was on her native heath, and in the after- noon when we sewed together William Wat- ters made lemonade, and in the evening when Billy came up for me we sat out under the stars until whispers of wind stirred the trees, and then we went away and left our dear lady alone. AS the time went on we hated more and more to leave her, but she was very brave about it. “I have my good man Friday,” she told us, “‘to protect me, and *my grandfather’s revolver.” So the summer passed, and the fall came, and the busy robin and all of her red-breasted family started for the South, and there was rain and more rain, so that when October rolled around the roads were perfect rivers of red mud, and the swollen streams swept under the bridges in raging torrents of terra- cotta, and the sheep on the hills were pinker than ever. There was no lack of colour in those grey days, for the trees burst through the curtain of mist in great splashes of red and green and gold. But now I did not go abroad with William Watters behind his old grey mule, for things had happened which kept me at home. It was on a rainy November night that I came down to the store to call Billy to supper. I had brought a saucer for old Tid, the store cat, and when he had finished Billy had cut him a bit of cheese and he was begging for it. We had taught Tid to sit up and ask, and he looked so funny, for he is fat and black and he hates to beg, but he loves cheese. We were laughing at him when a great flash of light seemed to sweep through the store, and a motor stopped. Billy svent forward at once. The front dcor opened, and a man in a rain-coat was blown in by the storm. Jove, it’s a wet night!”’ I heard him say, and I knew it wasn't any of Pilly ’s custemers from around that part of the country. This was no drawling Virginia voice. It was crisp and clear-cut and commanding. He took off his hat, and even at that dis- tance I could see his shining blond head. He towered above Billy, and Billy isn’t short. “T wonder if you could help me,” he began, and then he hesitated, “it is a rather personal matter.” “If you'll come up-stairs,” Billy told him, “there'll be only my wife and me, and I can shut up the store for the night.” “Good!” he said, and I went ahead of them with old Tid following, and presently the men arrived and Billy presented the stranger to me. He told us at once what he wanted. “I thought that as you kept the store, you might hear the neighbourhood news. I have lost—my wife—”’ “Dead?” Billy inquired solicitously. “No. Several months ago we motored down into this part of the country. Some miles from here I had trouble with my engine, and I had to walk to town for help. When I came back my wife was gone—” PINCHED Billy under the table. “Gone?” I echoed. “Yes. She left a note. She said that she could catch a train at the station and that she would take it. Some one evidently gave her a lift, for she had her traveling bag with her. She said that she would sail at once for France, and that I must not try to follow her. Of course I did follow her, and I searched through Europe, but I found no trace, and then it occurred to me that after all she might still be in this part of the country—” I held on to Billy. ‘‘Had you quarreled or anything?” He ran his fingers through his hair. ‘Things had gone wrong somehow,” he said, uncer- tainly, ‘I don’t know why. I love her.” If you could have heard him say it! If she could have heard him! There was 4 silence out of which I said: “‘ Did you ask her to warm your slippers?” He stared at me, then he reached out his hands across the table and caught hold of mine in such a strong grip that it hurt. “You've seen her,” he said, ‘“‘you’ve seen her—?” Then I remembered. “I can’t say any more. You see—I’ve promised—” “That you wouldn’t tell me?’ ‘Ves.” He threw back his head and laughed. “If she’s in this part of the country, I'll find her.” And T knew that he would. He was the kind of man you felt wouldn’t know there were obstacles in the way when he went after the thing he wanted. I made him stay to supper. (Continued on page 114) It was a LS

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Broadway, New copy will be R. De Bevoise Co., York City. mailed to any 1270-) M | Lady Crusoe (Continued from page 112) drizzly cold night and he looked very tired. ove,” he said, ‘“you’re comfortable | here, with your fire and your pussy-cat, and your teakettle on the hearth! ‘This is the sort of thing I like—”’ “You a ea like living over a grocery store,” I told h “Why not?” H, nobody around here ever has, and they are all descended from signers of the Declaration of Independence and back of that from William the Conqueror, and they stick their noses in the air. ‘Shades of Jefierson!—why should they? “They shouldn’t. But they do—’ He came back to the subject of his wife. “] didn’t want her to warm my slippers. It was only that I wanted her to feel like warming them,” he appealed to Billy, and Billy nodded. Billy positively purrs when I make him comfortable after his day’s work. He says that it is the homing instinct in men and that women ought to encourage it. ‘Does she warm yours?” he asked Billy. ““Not now, she’s too busy—”’ and then as if the stage were set for it, there came from the next room a little, little cry. I went in and brought out—Junior! He was only a month old, but you know how heavenly sweet they are with their rose-leaf skins, and their little crumpled hands and their downy heads—Junior’s down was brown, for Billy and I are both dark “You see he keeps me busy,” I said. I was so proud I am perfectly sure it stuck out all over me, and as for Billy he beamed on us in a funny fatherly fashion that he had adopted from the moment that he first called me “SLittle Mother’’. “Do you wonder that she hasn’t time to warm my slippers?” was his question. The stranger held out his arms—‘‘Let me hold the littlechap.” And he sat there, with out a smile, looking down at my baby. When he raised his head he said in a dry sort of fashion, “I thought the pussy-cat and the teakettle were enough—but this seems almost too good to be true- I can't tell you how much I liked him. He seemed so big and fine—and tender. I came across a poem the other day, and he made me think of it: ” : . the strong” The Master ae pered, “‘are the tenderest!” Before he went away, he took my hand in his. “I want you to play a game with me. Do you remember when we were children that we used to hide things, and then guide the ones who hunted by saying ‘warmer when we were near them, and ‘colder’ when they wandered away? Will you say ‘warm’ and ‘cold’ to me? That won't be breaking your promise, will it?’ oO. “Then let’s begin now. To-morrow morning I shall go to the north and east— “Cold!’ “To the south and west- “Warmer.” “Up a hill?” “Very warm. any more.” “All right. But I am coming again, we will play the game.” Billy went down with him, and when he came back we stood looking into the fire, and he said, “You didn’t tell him?’ “Of course not. That's the lovely, lovely thing that he must find out for himself—” But you mustn't ask me and HE next day I went to see Lady Crusoe. William Watters took me. “They” sa man been hangin’ round this mawnin’,” he complained, * ‘an’ a dawg—” “What kind of man, William?’ “He's huntin’, and Miss Lily she doan’ like things killed Half-way up, we passed the man. His hat came off when hes saw me. “It’s cold weather we ‘re having,” he said pleasantly. “is getting warmer,” I flung back at him, and William drove on with a grunt. I had Junior with me, and when I reached the house I went straight up-stairs. In the very centre of the room in the hooded ma- hogany cradle was another crumpled rose leaf of a child. But this was not a “Junior” “‘Robin-son,” Lady Crusoe had whispered, when I had first bent over her and had asked the baby’s name. “Because of the robins?’’ I had asked. She shook her head. “I couldn’t call him Crusoe, could 2” So there he lay, little Robinson Crusoe, in a desert expanse “of polished floor, and there he crowed a welcome to my own beautiful baby! Lady Crusoe was in a big chair. She was not strong, and William Watters had brought his sister Mandy to wait on her. She was very pale, this lovely lady, and there were shadows under her eyes. As I sat down be- side her, she said: “T shall have to have your Billy sell some more things for me. Tou see | the servants must be paid, and my Robin must be comfy. There’s a console-table 114 that ought to bring a lot from a city dealer.” . wish that you needn’t be worried,” I said. “I wish—I wish—that you’d let me send for Robin’s fz “‘Robin’s father!’ el drew a quick breath, “how funny it sounds!—Robin’s father—” I waited for that to sink in, and then [| said: “I know how you feel. When I think of Billy as Junior’s father it is different from thinking of him as my husband, and it makes 4 funny sensation in my throat as if I wanted to cry—’ “You've nothing to cry about,” she told me fiercely, “nothing, but I sometimes feel as if I could weep rivers of tears! I realized that I must be careful, so I changed the subject. “William,” I said after a pause, “is worrying about a man who is hunting over the grounds.” “He told me. I can’t understand why any one should trespass when the place is posted. I sent William to tell him, but it didn’t seem to have any effect. I haven’t heard him shoot. When I do, I shall go out and speak to him myself.” _ I wondered if Fate were going to settle it in that way, and I wondered too if it would be breaking my promise to tell him to shoot! We sewed in silence for a while, but Lady Crusoe was restless. At last she wandered to the window. It was a long French window which opened on a balcony. She parted the velvet curtains and looked out. ‘There he is again,” she said, with irritation, “by the gate with his gun and dog—’ I rose and joined her. The man stood by the gate-post, and the dog sat at his feet. They might have been a pair of statues planted on the round top of the hill, with the valleys rolling away beneath them and the mountain peaks and the golden sky beyond. Lady Crusoe was much stirred up over it. “T’ll send William again, when he comes with our tea. I won’t have my wild things shot. There was a covey of partridges on the lawn this morning, and my squirrels come up to the porch to be fed. Men are cruel creatures with their guns and their traps.’ = WOMEN are cruel, too,” I told her, and now I took my courage in my hands, “Suppose, oh, suppose, that the mother robin had stolen her nest and had never let the father robin shz ire her happiness, wouldn’t you call that cruel?” “What do you mean?” her voice shook. “You have stolen your—nest- “Why shouldn’t I steal it? I had always felt that when I wanted a real home it would be here. And the time had come when I wanted a—home. So I planned to come— with him. It was to be my surprise—he doesn’t even know that the old place belongs to me. He thought it was just another of my restless demands, but he let me have my way. We had friends with us when we started; they left us at Washington. It was after we were alone that—we quarreled— and I ran away. I left a note and told him that I had gone to France. I suppose he followed and didn’t find me. I am not even sure that he wants to find me.” “Do you want to be found?” “TI don’t know. I’d rather not talk about c William came in with the tea and was told to send the intruder off. “IT done sent him, Miss Lily,” he said, with dignity, “but he ain’t gwine to go. He say he ain't, and I kain’t make him.” She went again to the window, and this time she drew back the faded hangings and stepped out on the balcony. 1 heard her utter a cry; then the whole room seemed to whirl about me as she came in, dragging the curtains together behind her. Every drop of blood was drained from her “that man— ce. “William,” she said, shi urply, If he asks for is coming towards the house! me—I am not—at home.” “Nawm,” and William went down to answer the blows of the brass knocker. We heard him open the door, we heard the crisp, quick voice. We heard William’s sté itely response. Then the quick voice said: “Will you tell your mistress that I shall wait?” William came up with the message. ‘He’s settin’ on the po’ch, an’ he looks like he was makin’ out to set there all night.” ‘Let him sit,” said Lady Crusoe inele- gantly. “Lock all of the doors, William, and serve the tea. She sat there and drank a cup of it ‘scalding hot, with her head in the air and her foot tapping the floor. But I couldn’t drink a drop. I was just sick with the ‘thought of how he loved her, and of how she had hard- ened her heart. At last I couldn’t stand it any longer. The tears rolled down my cheeks. Lady Crusoe set her cup on the tray and stared at me in amazement. ‘“‘What’s the matter?” ‘““Oh, how can you—when he loves you?” I don’t know how I dared say it, for her (Continued on page 116) TLELL LEE ELLE

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IE eta ee SS LEG te NRT RU ETT aI Se ee ee eee Examine the quality of the lining in the coat or suit you contemplate buying. If it is GOETZ* All Silk Satin, you can usually be sure of good quality throughout the garment. GOETZ AIll Silk Satin, in rich, solid colors, makes up beautifully into dresses, waists and petticoats. To be had by the yard at leading stores. Identified by the name “GOETZ” woven in| white on the selvage. GOETZ SILK MFG. CO. New York City * “Gets” Fiftieth Anniversary Year Lady Crusoe Continued from page 114 eyes were blazing in her white face, and my heart was thumping, but there was Robinson Crusoe crowing in his hooded cradle, and Robin’s father was on the front step, with the old oak door shut and barred against him. She leaned forward, and I knew what was coming. “How did you know it was—my husband?” My eyes met hers squarely. “He came to th € store. He was looking for you.’ ‘And you told him that I was here?” “No. I wanted to. But I had promised.” For a little while neither of us spoke. The silence was broken by a thud, as if a flying squirrel had dropped from the roof to the balcony. A stick of wood fell apart in the grate, and the crow of the baby in the hooded cradle was answered by the baby on my lap. Lady Crusoe hugged her knees with her white arms as if she were cold, although the room was hot with the blazing fire. “I think you might have told me. It would have been the friendly thing to have told me—” “Billy thought it wasn’t best.” “What had Billy to do with it?” “Billy has everything to do with me. I talked it over with him—and—and Billy’s such a darling to talk things over—” I broke down and sobbed and sobbed, and the tears dripped on Junior’s precious head. And at last she said, her face softened, ‘ You silly little thing, what do you want me to do?” “Tf it were Billy, I should ask him in— and show him—the baby—” “Tf it were Billy, you would set your heart under his heel for him to step on. I am not like that—” Another squirrel dropped to the balcony. The sun was setting, and between the velvet oes I could see it blood-red behind the ills, Lady Crusoe rose, pacing the room rest- lessly. The wind rising rattled the long windows. A shadow blotted out the sun. “" Suppose if you were I,” she said at last, ““you’d take your baby in your arms, and go down and say to that man on the steps, ‘Come in and be lord of the manor and the ruler of your wife and child’.” I held Junior close and my voice trembled. “T should never say a thing like that to— Billy—” “What would you say?” “T should say—” I ‘choked over it, and broke down at the end, “oh, lover, lover, this is your son—and I am his happy mother—” She stopped in front of me and stood look- The American ing down, with the anger all gone from her eyes. Then, before she could turn or cry out, the long windows were struck open by something that was stronger than the wind, There had been no flying squirrels on the balcony, and the shadow which had hidden the sun was the breadth and height of the big man who stood between the velvet cur- tains! He crossed the room at a stride. “Did you think that bolts and bars could keep me from you?” he asked, and _ took Lady Crusoe’s hands in a tight grip and drew her towards him. She resisted for a moment. ‘Then her white slenderness was crushed in his hungry arms. Well, as soon as I could gather up Junior and his belongings, I went down to wait for Billy. But before I went I saw her drop on her knees beside the hooded cradle and lift out little Robin, and, still kneeling, hold him up towards his father, as the nun holds up Galahad in the Holy Grail. And what do you think I heard her say? “Oh, lover, lover, this is your son—and I am his happy mother!” Billy came in glow ing from his walk in the sharp air, and I can’t tell you how good it seemed to feel his cold cheek against my cheek, and his warm lips on mine. We were a rapturous trio in front of the library fire, and there we were joined presently by the rapturous trio from above stairs. They treated Billy and me as if we — a pair of guardian angels. Then we had dinner to- gether, with Mandy and William in the back- ground beaming. And that night I told Billy all about it. “Isn’t it beautiful, Billy? They are going to live on the old Dav enant place, and it is to be their home.” Everybody calls on us now. You see Lady Crusoe’s family is older than any of the others, and then there’s her husband’s money. And I shine in her reflected light, for our friendship, as she says, is founded on a rock. But Billy says it is founded on a wreck. Yet while he jokes about it, I know that he is proud of his friendship with Robin’s father. And when the spring comes, we are to take old Tid and our blessed Junior and our family effects to an adorable cottage with a garden on all four sides of it and set well back from the road. You see we feel that we can afford it, for we have the exclusive business of supplying the needs of the Dave- nant estate, and we are thus financially on our feet. Ambassador (Continued from page 100) “T suppose, as no list of guests is included, the High Mucky-Mucks will condescend to let me invite whom I please.” “Only you must submit your list to the Grand Master of Ceremonies first,” Atkins replied. “But that is mere form.. No one would think of asking any one to dine with Their Mz ajesties who had not been presented at court. The Ambassador looked at him with eyes full of determination. ‘Well, young man, I am going to do exactly that thing. This is my one chance to get even with this royal red tape. My first guests are going to be Mr. and Mrs. Haynes—the American consul and his wife.” Atkins smiled superciliously. “Their names will surely be struck off the list.” The Ambassador leaned back with con- siderable complacency. ‘“‘I’ll bet my bottom dollar they won’t!” It is extraordinary how he remembers such details at a crisis like this. All the rest of us had forgotten Mrs. Haynes’s first visit and the slight which rankled in her heart. Not so the Ambassador. He had evidently pigeonholed it away in his mind, and it was there, all ready to be remembered, when the propitious time came. Mr. and Mrs. Haynes have been invited to the dinner. Their names were included in the list sent to the Master of Ceremonies and the list was returned by that august functionary approved. This afternoon the Ambassador sent for me to come up to his room. He was in the little tower-room, seated in a deep chair and looking out of the window. He glanced up when I entered, nodded, and motioned to- wards a chair. sat down, struck by the appearance of his face; it was old and lined. “T’ve just talked to her,” he said, not meeting my eyes, but looking straight out of the open window. “T’ve about given up all hope. I can’t make her deny it. She says she loves him.” There was such finality in the way he ac- cepted it that I felt, more deeply than ever before, that there was no longer any hope for me. As long as the Ambassador felt so confi- dent of making Kate confess I too had been confident. It is strange how another’s hope- fulness boosts up one’s own! “What’s the name of that jeweler in Paris?”’ he asked abruptly. I had no idea what he was leading towards. I named a famous dealer. “Yes, that’s it. I want you to telegraph him to ‘send a man here with some tiaras— the kind countesses wear. I want a lot of them to choose from. Do you know the kind I mean? They have seven or eleven points to them, I can’t remember which.’ ‘The coronet of a countess—seven points.” “Well, whatever it is. Telegraph him to send them at once. All sorts. I rose, utterly dishe artened. “Then it is all settled?’ “Tt looks mighty like it, my boy.” His mouth twisted into a wry a. “We area pretty poor lot, aren’t we?” He held out his hand and clasped mine. “To think of us letting a foreigner get the best of us at every turn! And to think of my Kitty, of all women in the world, being caught, just like all the rest of ’em, by fine feathers.” (To be concluded in the May issue) for A Jolt ANY well-to-do women motorists in N London have joined the ranks of the uniformed drivers of the Adastral House cars, but not all of them have yet acquired army ideas of discipline. One of them was engaged to drive a brigadier from the War Office to another department in Mayfair and to call back again for him at 6:30 o’clock. Unfortunately the brigadier Harper's Bazar, April, 1017 116 the Brigadi was kept nearly an hour longer than he kad expected. When he came out, no car and no driver; but a note was handed him by an orderly. It was from the lady driver: “Tt is now 7:15, and I have a most impor- tant dinner engagement at 7:30 and can not wait longer. To prevent any inconvenience to you, I enclose 1s. 6d. for your taxicab fare.” n “a

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i t . a. z YOSAN, the dyed the dash and Made by tung, made in a new way, in the thread before weaving. Asaresult YOSAN has the exquisite bright silk 6¢7 cannot say too much for the my new Sport Suit. ELSIE JANIS in Sport Suit of YOSAN by HENRI BENDEL Yo San The New Shantung Sport Silk perfected Shan- silks. Exquisite in endless in designs, style. om, silk, YOSA The quality is lovely and the icter that I want ina gown. I char. By the yard and in smartest Sport Costumes, Street Frocks, Waists and Skirts AT ALL LEADING STORES - Rogers & Thompson, Inc., Creators of Soiree and Sportsilk La Jerz appearance never before obtainable in Shantung colorings, daring in N, used in design has hve it.” - Ne “Ww York ansveevevevnnnensonnevuenevennocaonnananeascennenanene Fiftieth Anniversary Horper s Bazar, April, Year 1917 Marriage (Continued from page 45) Not so many years ago it was the consensus of scientific opinion that in most cases of crime, insanity and nervousness, the victim was hopelessly handicapped from the start by the nature of his being. There was much talk of “inherited criminality” » “con- genital brain defects” and “neuropathic inheritance’. But observation and ex- periment have compelled an almost complete abandonment of this doctrine of fatal de- generation. To-day scientists largely hold that not more than one or two per cent. of criminals can be stigmatized as criminals by birth, that insanity is not inheritable like eye-colour or hair-colour, and that nervous- ness is at bottom an acquired rather than inherited disorder. If, then, crime, insanity and nervousness are on the increase, it follows that faults of training rather than innate and unescapable tendencies are the responsible factors. More specifically, crime, insanity and nervousness have increased because no adequate effort has been made, by appropriate training, to fit the individual to withstand the extra strain put upon him by the economic changes of the past half century. TILL further, modern scientific research has discovered the specific training-fault which more than anything else accounts for the failure in adaptation. Stated briefly, this fault consists in neglect to develop moral control during the first years of life. In the case of criminality it has been proved, by repeated experiments tried on a large scale, that even the descendants of a long line of criminals, if carefully trained in early childhood, will ‘lead upright lives. In the case of insanity, the discovery that the three principal causes of mental disease are excessive indulgence in alcohol, sexual in- discretions and emotional stress points di- rectly to the importance of training aimed at the development of moral control. But most impressive, as emphasizing t the need for be- ginning this training at an early age, is the evidence accumulated in the case of those functional nervous maladies, hysteria, neu- rasthenia, psychasthenia, which are perhaps the most wide spread of modern disorders. Medical psychologists have demon- strated beyond the shadow of a doubt that, no matter what the immediate cause of an attack of hysteria, neurasthenia, or psychasthenia, there is always an underlying cause tracing back to experiences of child- hood. They have found that a child of sensi- tive nervous organization, if not trained from the outset in moral control, will brood over any emotional shock, will even keep it alive in the back of his mind, long after he has consciously forgotten about it. There, lurking in the recesses of his subconscious- ness, it acts as an irritant of the nervous system, distorting his outlook on life and preparing the way for a psychic explosion in the form of functional nervous or mental ill-health, if in later years ke undergoes any unusual mental or physical strain. It is precisely because our modern life provides so many occasions of strain that the lack of early training in moral control is more productive of nervous disorders than it was in other and less stressful times. Let me make my meaning clearer by a single instance from recent medical practise, having to do with the experience of a young woman suffering from an extremely common form of functional mental trouble, an obses- sive fear that she would become insane. Several physicians had assured her that she had no real reason for her fear, but she was deaf to their assurances until she came under the observation of a physician trained in the principles and methods of medical psychology. By an ingenious technique of psychological analysis this physician discovered that her fear of insanity had its cnset during a period of overfatigue, and that it first appeared after an evening at a dance. Of these facts the patient had no conscious recollection. But by the physician’s skill the memory of them was vividly recalled from her subconsciousness. Also she was able to give an illuminating reply to the question: “What happened at the dance that caused you to be troubled about your mental state?” “T saw a woman there,” the patient said, “whose eyes terrified me.” ““And why did her eyes terrify you?” “Because there was an expression in them that reminded me of an insane woman I once saw when I was a little girl.” More revelations followed: The girlhood experience, it appeared, had had a profoundly disturbing effect on the patient’s mind. In her fright she had asked herself over and over, “Do little girls ever go insane?” This had long been the subject of her waking thoughts and had tinged her dreams with horror. In fact, further psychological analysis disclosed that she still dreamed at times of the insane woman of her girlhood, .though when awake she had no recollection of this episode. To her physician it now seemed evident that the present fear of insanity was actually a revival of the fear felt in early life, as indeed was proved by the cessation of the present fear after its origin and signifi- cance had been made clear to the patient. Now what gave this early fear such ex. treme and persistent dominance in her mind? Her physician’s study of the case left no doubt as to the correct answer to this ques- tion. As a little child, long before she saw the insane woman, she had been “nervous”, moody, much given to self-communing, This had not passed unnoticed by the parents, but they had not grasped its significance. Unwittingly, by pampering her, they had intensified her tendency to be overoccupied with thoughts of self. They had not appre- ciated the supreme importance, to health as well as to happiness, of training that would minimize interest in self—training that would make for self-forgetfulness and _ self-control through interest in profitable activities. Such training would, in the first place, have saved the patient from reacting so abnorm- ally to the experience with the insane woman. And it would have had the further effect of equipping her in general to withstand the shocks and stresses inevitable in later life. Her subsequent fear of insanity would not have developed, because she would not have been carrying about with her an “emotional complex” of girlhood, to be stimulated into renewed activity by the chance meeting at the dance. This case is typical of the large group of functional nervous and mental troubles which make up what are technically known as the * psychoneuros ses”. Study the history of every case of “nervous breakdown,” of psychasthenic fear, of hysterical anxiety, of neurasthenic aches and pains, and you will always find a background of emotional in- tensity and self-centredness, persisting from early childhood. Hence the demand of the modern neurologist and medical psychologist for training in youth that will foster emotional control, and that will habituate the individual to forget self in useful activities. ‘‘The mind occupied with external interests will have neither time nor inclination to feed upon itself.’ If, therefore, the one sure check to the increase in crime, insanity and _ nervous disorders is moral training in early life, can it be doubted that the same process offers the strongest means of checking the tendency to flood the divorce courts? Ninety-nine divorces out of every hundred, it is safe to say, result from errors of thinking and — living—errors directly traceable to shortcomings in early training. Selfishness and lack of control are the usual basic ele- ments out of which divorces grow. What are these but bad habits, for which good habits might have been substituted had proper precautions been taken by the parents in the plastic, formative period of youth? Even in respect to the sexual phase of mar- riage—that phase in which so many mar- riages come to grief—the trouble, when trouble occurs, may in most cases be wholly attributed to parental thoughtlessness or ignorance. On the sexual side, as on all sides of married life, the one great need is for education for marriage. EF: is not possible here to go into details. It must suffice to say that investigation has shown that the sexual impulse begins to manifest itself in sundry ways far earlier than most parents appreciate, and that unless care is taken to observe and offset eccen- tricities of behaviour, possibly containing a sexual element, permanent harm may result. Thus, there often is a sexual element in the cruelty with which not a few children treat playfellows or household pets. The exaggerated devotion little boys sometimes display for their mothers and little girls for their fathers is to-day likewise regarded by many medical psychologists as a danger sig- nal, calling for educational measures to insure a more even distribution of affection for both parents. These same psychologists insist that, at the first obvious sign of interest in sexual matters—as when the child begins to ask questions about its origin—it should be given frank, if tactful, elementary instruc- tion in the facts of sex. Evasive or untruth- ful answers will not do. They only fix the attention more strongly on the subject, and from this fixing of the attention a danger- ously morbid interest in things sexual may develop. Clearly parents who would do their full duty by their children have no easy task be- fore them. Yet everything combines to show that unless they make a business 0} pare nthood—and, in especial, unless, by direct instruction and the force of good example, they develop in their children the virtues of self-control and self-forgetfulness—the after lives of those children, when themselves mar- ried, may be anything but successful. In a word, the prevention of divorce and the safeguarding of marriage, like the pre- vention of crime, insanity and nervous dis- ease, is primarily and emphatically a question of early education, of education in the home and by the parent.

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Model 14 Baleh Price & (% have the honour to announce their Style-Themes for Spring in | Afternoon and Evening Gowns | and Wraps. Dance, Porch and ! Beach Frocks. Sports and Gadabout Dresses, Suits and | Coats, Outdoor Skirts and Sweat- ers. Hats for All Occasions. Corner Smith | | ! 384 FULTON STREET I BROOKLYN, N. Y. Anniversary Year Fiftieth ] Harper's Basar, April, 1917 Ladies Must Live (Continued from page 53) name. Can’t you hear him? ‘Curious thing happened the other day—at my friends’ the Usshers’. Know them? A lovely country place—’” “I’m awfully sorry,” he said. “What a bore! Is there anything I could do—” “Well, there is one thing.” He looked up quickly. If ever terror flashed in a man’s eyes, she saw it then in his. Her heart sank, but her mind worked none the less well. “Tt’s this,” she went on _ smoothly. “There’s a lodge, a sort of tool-house, only about half a mile down the road. Couldn’t you take a lantern—couldn’t you possibly spend the night there?” ‘It isn’t by any chance,” he said, “that you ‘re afraid of having me here?’ ‘Oh, no, not you!” she answered. “No, I should feel much safer with you here than there.” If he went her case was ruined, and she was now actually afraid perhaps he would go. “I should be terrified in this great place all by myself. Still I think you ought to go. It’s not so very far. You go down the road a little way and then turn to the right through the woods. I think you’ll find it. The roof used to leak a little, but I dare say you won’t mind that. There isn’t any fire- place, but you could take lots of blankets—” “TI tell you what I'll do,” he said. ‘No one will come to rescue us to-night. I'll sleep here to-night, and to-morrow as soon as it’s light I’ll go to this cottage, and when they come you can tell them any story you please. Will that do?” It did perfectly. “Oh, thank you,” she said. “How kind you are! And you do for- give me, don’t you? sg About the cereal?—oh, yes, on one con- dition.” “What is that?” sweet. “That you wash these dishes.” She felt inclined to box his ears. seen through her all the time? “T never washed a dish in my life,” served thoughtfully. “Have you ever done anything useful? She reflected, and after some thought she replied, not boastfully, but as one who states an indisputable fact: “‘ Never.” He folded his arms, leant against the wall and looked down upon her. “I wish,” he said, “if it isn’t too much trouble, that you would give me a detailed account of one of your average day S. ‘You talk,’ said she, “as if you were studying the manners and customs of sav- ages.” “Let us say of an unknown tribe.” She leant back in her chair and stretched her arms over her head. ‘Well, let me see, she said. “I wake up about nine or a little after, if I haven’t been up all night, and I ring for my maid. And about eleven—” ‘Don’t skip please. You ring for your maid. What does she do for you?” She was still meltingly Had he she ob- >” MAGINE any one’s not knowing! Miss Fenimer marveled. ‘Why, she draws my bath and puts out my things, and while I’m taking my bath she straightens the room and lights the fire if it’s cold, and brings in my breakfast-tray and my letters. And by half past ten I’m finally dressed if no one has come in to delay me, only some one always has. Last winter my time was immensely occupied by two friends of mine who had both fallen in love with the same man—one of them was married to him—and they used to come every day and confide in me. You have no idea how amusing it was. He be- haved shockingly, but I couldn’t help feeling a little sorry for him. They were both such determined women. Finally I went to him and told him how it was I knew so much about his affairs, and said I thought he ought to try and make up his mind which of them he really did care for. And what do you think he said? That he had always been in love with me!” She laughed. ‘‘How ab- surdly things happen, don’t they?” ‘Good Heavens!” said Riatt. “But even at the worst, I’m generally out by noon and get a walk. I’m rather de- pendent on exercise, and then I lunch with some one or other—’ “Men or women?” “Either or both. And then after lunch I drive with some one, or go to see pictures or hear music, and then I like to be at home by tea time, because that’s of course the hour every one counts on finding you, and then there’s dressing and going out to dinner, and very often something afterwards.” “Good Heavens!” said Riatt again, and after a moment he added: “‘And does that life amuse you?” “No, but it doesn’t bore me as much as doing things that are more trouble.” “What sort of things?” “Oh, being on committees that you don’t really take any interest in.” She rather en- joyed his amazement. ““Now tell me one thing more,” he said. “What would you do if you had to earn your living?” The true answer was that she would ma Edward Hickson, but, though heretofore she had been fairly candid, she thought on this point a little dissembling was permissible, — starve, I suppose,” she returned ai “ ‘And suppose you fell in love with a poor man?” She grew grave at once. “Oh, that’s a dreadful thing to happen to one!” she said, “T’ve had two friends who did that.” She almost shuddered. “One actually married “And what happened to her?” Miss Fenimer shook her head. “I don’t know. She’s living in the suburbs some- where. I haven’t seen her for ages.” ‘And the other?” “She was more practical. She married him to a rich widow ten years older than he was. That provided for him, you see, at least. But it turned out worse than the other case.” “How?” “Why he fell in love with this other woman—” “His wife, you mean?” “Yes. Imagine it! Men are so fickle.” “Do you know that you really shock me?” “It's better to appreciate the way things are. “Tt isn’t the way things are among decent, normal human beings.” SHE shrugged her shoulders. “Oh, I imagine it is,” she said, “only they’re not honest enough to admit it.” He continued to stare at her, and strangely enough she had never seemed to him more beautiful. ““And do you mean to tell me,” he said, “that people who have the standards that you describe will attach the slightest im- portance to an innocent little adventure like this of ours?” ““Of course. will.” ““Nonsense! “Yes, because they make a point of always — the worst or at least of pretending ” They are the very people who ” ow hy pretend?” “Because it makes conversation so much more amusing. Sometimes,” she added thoughtfully, “I have a terrible suspicion that there really isn’t an atom of harm in any of them—that they all behave perfectly well and just excite themselves by talking as if they didn’t.” “And you call that suspicion terrible?” “Well, it makes it all seem a little flat. But then sometimes,” she went on brightly, “one does find out some things absolutely hideous.” ““See here,” he said, “it’s a crime for a girl of your age to talk like this. It’s a silly habit. I don’t believe you’re like that at heart.” “You talk,’”’ said she, “like Edward Hick- son.” “In some communities that would be thought a fighting word,” he returned. “But you haven’t yet answered my question. You've told me what your friends have done; but what would you do yourself if you fell in Jove with a poor man?’ “In the first place, I never should. What makes a man attractive to me is power, pre- eminence, being bowed dcwn to. If I lived in a military country I’d love the greatest soldier, and if I lived in a savage country I'd love the strongest warrior, but here to- day the only form of power I see is money. It’s what makes you able to have everything you want, and that’s a man’s greatest charm.” “And it seems to me that the most tied down creatures I ever saw are the rich men I’ve met in the East.” She was honestly surprised. ‘Why, what is there they can’t do?” she asked. HE smiled. “They can’t do anything that might endanger their property rights,” he answered, “and that seems to me to cut them off from most forms of human endeavour. But no matter about that. You say you would not be likely to fall in love with a poor man, but suppose you did. Perhaps it has happened already? Miss Fenimer looked thoughtful. “T was trying to think,” she said. ‘Yes, there was a young artist two years ago that I was rather interested in. He was very nice look- ing, and Nancy Almar kept telling me how much he was in love with her.” “And that stimulated your interest? “Of course.” “Just for the sake of information,” he said, ‘do you always want to take away any man who is safely devoted to another woman?” Christine seemed resolved to be accurate. “Tt depends,” she answered, “whether or not I have anything else to do, but of course the idea always pops into one’s head, ; wonder if I couldn’t make him like me best’.’ ‘And do you always find you can?” “Oh, there’s no rule about it; only as a (Continued on page 122 >” anni KOZ CLLiik dd dh ddd den \y cw VA. Lid hdd didiitihikisdddididbatilissiliidde 4 y ZZ AASSAAISLSSSS AL .

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Nev SAILORS Nr BE SURE THIS STAG ASK YOUR DEALER FOR KEITH MILLINERY Edson IMPORTERS Pi RO Common 8 8.8) Wholesale | ‘Millinery Only 24 and 26 So. Michigan Avenue NEW YORK CHICAGO PARIS Year 1917 Anniversary Bacar, April, Fiftieth Harper's (oith & Company Ladies Must Live (Continued from page 120) newcomer one has the advantage of novelty, and that’s something.” “And what happened about this artist?” Christine smiled reminiscently: “I found he wasn’t really in love with Nancy at all; he just wanted to paint her portrait. “T should think he would have wanted to paint yours.” “He did and gave it to me as a present, and then he behaved very badly.” She sighed. “What did he do?” “Well,” she hesitated, “he did not really want to give me the picture. He thought he wanted to keep it himself. It was much the best thing he ever did. I had to persuade him a good deal, and in persuading him I may have given him the impression that I cared about him more than I really did. Anyhow, after I actually had the portrait hanging in my sitting-room, I told him I thought it was better for us not to meet any more. Some men would have been flattered to think I took them so seriously. But he was furious, and one day when I was out he sent for the portrait and cut it all to pieces. Wasn't that horrible? My pretty por- trait!” “Horrible!” said Riatt. “It seems to me the one spark of spirit the poor young man showed.” She glanced at him under her lashes. “What would you have done?” “T’d take you out to the plains for a year or so and let you find out a little about what life is like.” “T don’t think it would be a success,” she returned. “I don’t profit by discipline, I’m afraid. But,” she stood up, “I’m perfectly open-minded. I’ll make a beginning. I'll wash the dishes—just to please you. TATT watched her go to the kitchen sink and pour water from the steaming kettle into a dish-pan, saw her turn up her lace-frilled cuffs and begin with her long, slim, inefficient hands to take up the dirty plates. Suddenly, much to his surprise, he found he couldn’t bear it, couldn’t bear to see the lace fall down again and again, and her obvious shrinking from the task. He crossed the room and took the plates from her, and then with a clean towel he delib- erately dried her hands, finger by finger, while she stood by like a docile child, looking up at him in wonder. ‘Don’t you want to asked plaintively. “No,” he answered shortly. “Why not?’ “ Because you would be too dangerous,” he returned. “‘Now you have every charm except goodness. If you turned good and gentle you'd be supreme. ‘I never thought goodness was a charm,” she objected “And that’s just what I hope you will never find out.’ She laughed. “I don’t believe there’s much danger,” she said. ‘I think I shall go on being wicked and mercenary and selfish to the day of my death, and probably getting everything I want.” “[ hope not. I mean I hope ; get what you want.” “( Yh, why are you so unkind?’ “Because I shall want to use you as a terrible example to my grandchildren. “Do you think you will remember me as long as that?” “T feel no doubt about it.” She smiled. “It seems rather hard that I have to come to a bad end just to oblige your horrid little a ’ she said. “As a matter of fact I shall probably run them down in my motor, as they go to work with their little dinner-pails. And as I take their mangled forms to the hespital I'll murmur: ‘Riatt, Riatt, I think I once knew a half hearted reformer of that name’.” “You think you, too, will remember as long as that?” ‘I have an excellent memory for trifles, she returned, and rose yawning. ‘And now I think I’ll go to bed—unless there’s some- thing more you want to know about our tribal customs. Are you going to write a nature book about us, ‘Headhunting among the Idle — ir “*The Cannibals of the Atlantic Coast’ is the title,” he answered as he gave her a candle. ‘I'll leave your breakfast for you in the morning before I go. And by the way, if some one comes to rescue you, don’t go off and leave me in the tool-house, will you?” “Oh, I’m not really as bad as that.” He shook his head as if he didn’t feel sure. She went away well satisfied with her evening’s work. There had been something extremely flattering in his mingled horror and amusement at her candid revelations. Holding up the candle she looked at her own image in her mirror. ‘I wonder,” she thought, “if that voung man knows what a —— frame of mind he’s in.” He had some suspicion, for as he dragged a mattress down-stairs and laid it before 7 kitchen fire he kept repeating to himself, a reform me?” she yu won't ” if in a last effort to rouse some moral en- thusiasm: “What a band of cutthroats they are! Christine woke the next morning to find the sun shining on an unbroken sheet of snow. The storm had passed in the night. She dressed quickly and went down to find the kitchen empty and the track of footsteps in the snow leading away in the direction of the tool-house. Her coffee was cooking, some cereal was pushed back on the stove, and slices of bacon neatly laid in the frying-pan were ready for cooking. She thought he might have stayed and cooked it for her. “No one will come as early as this,” thought, plaintively. But hardly had she finished her simple meal when the sound of sleigh-bells reached her ears, and running to the window she saw that Ussher and Hickson in a two-horse sleigh were driving down the slope. A moment later they were in the kitchen. And after the minimum time had elapsed she during which all three talked at once re- counting their own individual anxieties, Ussher asked: ‘““Where’s Max?” Christine cast down her eyes with a sort of Paul- and-Virginia expression as_ she answered: “Oh, he is sleeping in the tool- ” ouse. “Well, I call that outrageous!”’ said Ussher. “Let a man freeze to death! Upon my word, Christine, I thought you had more sense.”’ And he strode away to the back door. poor fellow.” and Hickson “Yes, here are his tracks, Ussher went out after him, turned back. “But you think I was right, don’t you, Edward?” said Christine, for she had never failed to elicit commendation from Edward. But now his brow was dark. “But, I say, Christine,” he said, ‘‘there’s one thing I don’t understand—these tracks of his foot- steps in the snow.’ “He didn’t fly, Ned, aviator. “Yes, but it didn’t stop snowing until four o’clock this morning.” How irritating the weather always is! Christine thought. For though she was willing to use scandal as a weapon over Riatt, she was not sure that she wished to put it into Hickson’s hands. She thought hard and then said brightly: “Oh, perhaps he came back fcr his breakfast before I was up.” Hickson shook his lead one way,” he said. In the face of the tactlessness of hard facts, Christine decided to create a diversion. “T can’t stand here go ssiping about the conduct of an aviator,” she said, “when there’s so much to be done. Look at all these dirty plates. What ought to be done with them, Edward, dear?” She appealed to him as to a fountain of wisdom; and he did not fail her. ‘They ought to be washed,” he said. “Give me a towel. I'll do it.” And he felt more than rewarded, when, as she handed him a towel, her hand touched his. The many duties of which she had just spcken seemed suddenly to have melted away, for she sat down quite idly and watched him. “*How well you do it, Edward!” she said, not quite honestly, for she compared his slow gestures ve ry unfavourably with Riatt’s deft hands. ‘It’s quite as if you had washed dishes all your life.” “Ah, Christine,” he answered, looking at her sentimentally over a _ coffee-cup, “I shouldn’t ask anything better than to wash your dishes for the rest of my life. ‘Thank you, Edward, but I think I should ask something a gocd deal better,” she answered. even if he is an head: “They only T was on this scene that Ussher and Riatt entered, and the eyes of the latter twinkled. ““Engaged a kitchen-maid, I see,” he said in a low tone to Christine. ‘*T think it’s so good for people to do some- thing useful now and then, dcn’t you?” ‘A form of education that yo u offer almost every one who comes near you. Hickson did not hear everything, but he caught the idea and said severely: ‘I don’t suppose any one wou Id ask Miss Fenimer to wash dirty dishes.” Riz att laughed: * ‘No one who had ever seen her try! Ussher who had been fuming in the kack- ground now broke out. “Upon my word, Christine, that tool- house was like a vault! It was madness to ask any one to spend the night in such a pla ace. “Did you spend the house?” said Hickson, ness. “There are worse places than the tcol- house,”’ said Riatt, as he and Ussher hurried down to the cellar to put out the furnace fire. Hickson turned to Christine. ‘‘The fellow didn’t answer me,” he said. (Continued on page 130) night in the tool- with unusual direct-

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Fiftieth admittedly America’s best 665 FIFTH AVENUE Mrs. Vernon Castle dressed woman. Her stunning gowns and smart tailleurs executed by al rT ITS IMPORTER GOWNS NEW YORK Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 @ Her Back were good. You know, dear, so few of us + good in your sense. We want so much; takes such a little to give you nna We're pirates—we ransack anybody for what we think we must have.” Her voice sank. “T’m not sure that you ought to have me here, knowing—knowing what you must know now. Aline drew herself up, a child on the de- fensive. “I’m not frightened —— The answer came cynically. “Wives never are until—I’m going. No, let me go before Dan——” She slipped into her furs. “I can see myself out.” Aline kissed her. She reentered the darkened room, crossed it and drew aside the curtains. Yes, it was beautiful in its frightening titanic fashion. Far below lay Central Park like a dark deep pool along whose bottom schools of phos- phorescent fishes darted—cars swift as arrows. Built up against the sky, like ram- parts tipped with stars, were the tunneled precipices in whose caves and crevices human cheese-mites encountered birth and death. She felt unknown, stunned, terrified by too much daring. She heard her husband in the hall. The door opened. He stood on the threshold puzzled by the darkness. He reached out his hand; the room was flooded with a dazz- ling glare. “Oh, don’t—don’t do that!” It was as though the light stripped her thoughts of concealment. He turned quickly to the window. “Why, youngster, how you scared me! Thought Birrel was to be here, and we were to have some music?” She stood with her hands clasped against her throat. “Oh, please turn it out. He watched her curiously, taken aback by the hint of hysteria in what she said. ND she watched him—tall, broad-should- ered and slight of hip in his evening dress. She watched his face, extraordinarily sensi- tive for a man’s, arched at the nostrils, square in the forehead, arid as finely moulded as a woman’s about the mouth. When his soul was hurt his lips could come together as though they would never open. Was it only fancy? Had his face grown stern? It seemed to her that he was less young than at Amboise; that the sense of power was stealing his youth from him; that he didn’t laugh like he used to. He was remote; even when he was near her his thoughts were elsewhere. And her laughter—his silence laid a finger on her mouth. “Please turn it out.” He switched off the light. In the darkness he caught her to him, at first powerfully, then ge ently, made careful by her girlish slightness. “Little one,” he whispe red, “you're tremb- ling. What's happened?” She wanted to tell him, had tried to tell him for many days; now that the opportunity had come she only pressed her forehead against his shoulder and wept. He questioned her. Had she quarreled with Birrel? Was it any- thing that he had said? Had he been un- thoughtful of her? It was nothing that could be put into words. She drew him to the window; he looked out. Etched against the clouds, the st&irweys of the city climbed and broke off shdrt of heaven “New York! Splendid, isn’t it? Well, what of it?” Brushing his lips against her hair, he coaxed her to answer Slowly she shook her head; truth refused to be spoken. ‘“They’re so high, all those buildings.” He laughed quietly. “A queer kiddy! You haven’t learnt to grow up yet. See, we’ll shut them out.” He drew the curtains together. A little apart from him in the darkness she stood ghostlike. At the end of the room, with the chair set comfortably before it, the fire burnt red. Its glow, flickering through the shadows, distorted the features of portraits on the walls, so that their faces seemed to lean from the frames, uncannily attentive. Perhaps that was what had frightened her—that and the waiting for him. His lips met hers with the silent eagerness of days when such greet- ings were new and at times resisted. She lay in his arms very small and quiet. When he sat down before the fire, he was still hold- ing her. The emotional silence was unbroken. The tenor chimes of a French clock struck eleven. He stooped his face. “Tt’s—it’s a long time since we’ve done anything like this. We've grown afraid of thinking each other foolish.” She sat up, her hands on his shoulders, holding him from her. It had to be said. “Dan, why did you marry me?” Like a sudden hailstorm, stamping down a spring garden, the question chilled and crushed him. It was mind-reading. ‘Why did you marry her?” He gazed into the fire, masking his expres- sion. He feared that he might betray him- to the (Continued from page 61) Wall self. Again the question came with unhappy persistence. “But why did you marry me? He answered coldly. She knew that he was hurt; it was as though she had accused him. “You oughtn’t to have to ask. You know—because I loved you better than any woman in the world.” E didn’t kiss her as he said it. His arms were slack about her. Her voice trembled. “Did you love me? Or did you love some one you thought I was, or thought I might become? No, listen, Dan. I’m not accusing; I’m just trying to find out. Per- haps all men and women who love each other —perhaps they all take each other for granted when they’re married. Perhaps—I don’t know, but I can’t bear it. We used to be so near—so anxious to be alone and happy. And now—why, we try to escape to people; we’re afraid of tiring each other. And we’re hungry. It wasn’t me you loved; it was——” He seized her hands fiercely—the “little white mice” and raised them to his mouth. “Aline, won’t you believe that you were the first—the only woman? There was no one before you.” She ruffled his hair. “Poor Dan!—that wasn’t what I meant. It was wonderful that I should have been the first, but—that’s the trouble. You know nothing about women. If you’d loved before, you’d have learnt; a woman likes to be loved for what she is, not for the magic cloak that a man flings round her. He’s simply loving him- self then. You tried to think I was clever; I’m not—I can’t make music like Birrel. And then even when you began to suspect, you wanted to believe that you could make me over into your ideal, like a woman does a dress. You can’t. You used to tell me that I’d never had any one to call out my big qualities. I never had any big qualities; I’m just ordinary. And yet—I think you’d like me, if you’d only find out who I am. You’re disappointed.” “T’m not. She slipped to the floor, her head against his knees. “You are. Oh, I know it! Don’t let’s pretend. All these months you’ve re- fused to own it. I’ve tried—tried so hard to make myself over—I’m what I am.” She was crying with a child’s abandon. He plucked at her fingers, striving to make her look up. “Listen,” he spoke chokingly, “we'll go back to Amboise for a holiday. It was there that we first met. We always planned to go. We'll go and see the old man who makes sabots. You remember? It was after we'd been talking with him that I first kissed you. And we'll climb up to the chateau and watch the sunset. We'll do all the things we used to do together. And then—’ “And then?” She looked at him search- ingly. ‘And then we'll forget this busy New York, We'll be together.” “Not together.” She said it sadly. “That wouldn’t do it. Your work’s here. We’ve got to live here. It’s here that we must fight it out. Oh, dearest, it was good of you —but you’d only deceive yourself afresh. Just because the country was different, you’d think I was different. It would solve noth- ing. HAT he knew. France and the holiday spirit would throw over her the old cloak of glamour; there would always be the re- turn. “Won’t you try, Aline—? She finished his sentence for him. “To be some one else? She shook her head. “No. I’m so tired of pretending. Good night, Dan. You don’t like me now. You see I’m not what you intended. I wish you’d learnt something about women before you married me. Perhaps you wouldn’t have been so disappointed in me then.” Left by himself he felt angry and sorry. Somehow Aline had failed him. Had he asked too much? Idealists are cruel. His girl-wife stood desperately with her back to the wall in a bedroom not far distant. She had given herself too ungrudgingly— he must be thwarted. There was only one way to rewin his love. At whatever cost he must be taught about women—made to know the worth of simple affection and good- ness. Two days after his conversation with Aline he returned home to find Birrel wait- ing. She was in evening dress and had taken off her Wraps. “Good luck! I didn’t expect to see you. Going out to dinner?” She raised her eye-brows in a puzzled manner. “Going out to dinner? No. Aline asked me to dine here, but—” He glanced round, annoyed and embar- rassed. “‘Where is she? Hasn’t she come in yet?” His eyes fell on a note, placed conspicu- ously against the clock on the mantel-piece. It was addressed to him in his wife’s hand. It read: “I’ve invited Birrel to dinner. I (Continued on page 126) ”

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vvavacennenensunnnnsensannnnaannnanansannnatie 126 Her Back to the Wall (Continued from page 124) may not get back before eleven. If I don’t, please entertain her for me.’ I INNER was delayed till half past seven. At first Dan was anxious; he spent his time in listening for her step. He heard hardly anything of what Birrel was saying. Then his anxiety was replaced by a sense of anger at her injustice. She hadn’t any right to treat him cavalierly. It was so unlike her. Besides—he hated to own it—he missed her most confoundedly. Then came the childish desire to show how little he cared. He looked at Birrel. He noticed the deep red-gold of her hair; how it lay like metal against the whiteness of her forehead. He glanced into her eyes and discovered that he could make them shy if he gazed too long at them. He found that by giving her his at- tention, he could make her thoughts leap out towards him and could intercept them—the way we can the thoughts of people who are more to us than friends. He became inter- ested in the discovery—a little proud of it; he was a piper with a knack of magic, seated on the edge of a woodland, compelling wild things to steal out from cover spellbound. That was how it all commenced. After dinner she seated herself at the piano, singing, humming, wandering like a bee from flower to flower of sound. His thoughts went back to the woman of dreams as his illusions had conjured her. He pushed his chair nearer to the auburn-haired girl. At the end of a motif he leant forward and stayed her hands. As their fingers met they lingered. Hers trembled. What was that he had intended to say? Their eyes came to- gether. ‘You’re not happy?” Her voice quivered. He shook his head. She bent forward. Her hair touched his. He caught its fragrance. She breathed, hardly spoke the words, “Can't I help?” He awoke to the risk of his foolishness. “Tt’s too late for that.” She laughed tremulously. late to— Her hands flashed above the keyboard in a growing riot of passion. He glanced at the clock nervously, said she’d be home at eleven.” It was quarter to eleven now. Birrel rose quickly without explanation, as though her action would be understood. ‘Then I’ll be going.” When his wife came in she found him by himself, seated before the fire engrossed in a book. He glanced up. “Had a good time? “Splendid, thank you.” That was all. She volunteered no account. “And you?” “Tt’s never too “Aline PE HE had become unapproachable. In the days that followed she seemed less a woman than a figure of mist and dusk, drifting in and out of his room. He suffered intensely—the more intensely because to all appearances she was so contented. Now that she had withdrawn herself from him, he desired her with a hunger of which at the time when he had fancied himself disappointed he would never have thought himself capable. He made efforts to ignore their estrangement and to act as though life was on the old com- panionable footing. He called her up from the office. ‘‘Hullo, is that you? I’ve two tickets to-night for Shaw’s new play. Let’s meet for dinner at a hotel down-town. What’s that?” A ghostly voice answered him with con- ventional politeness: ‘Sorry. Can’t come. I have a previous engagement. No. Im- possible to break.” He slammed the receiver down and tore up the tickets. Three weeks had passed, and there had been no sign of a reconciliation. It was to- wards evening. He was riding in the park. On account of the lateness of the hour the bridle-track was almost deserted. Now and then an occasional horseman would gallop past him and become silent in the distance, a silhouette of motion against a background of bare branches. Dusk was rising like smoke from the ground. A touch of frost was in the air; the breath steamed from his horse’s nostrils. Arc-lamps, faintly winking smudges while day lasted, grew large and bold as dark- ness thickened. In the fading turquoise of unruffled sky the sheer fronts of hotels and apartment-houses towered monstrous and domineering. Life, with its swaggering stride and the shuffling accompaniment of human footsteps, seemed the more remote by reason of its very nearness. He must be getting back. This might be one of the evenings when Aline would be at home for dinner. It was just possible—it was always just possible—that the opportunity might arise for him to speak with her. He saw a woman rider approaching at a canter and drew rein to watch her; her erect- ness, her vitality, the lithe swaying of her body took his fancy. She went by him in a flash. Swinging his horse round he set off in pursuit. The speed, the darkness, the frosty quiet roused him to excitement. In the dis- tance, growing rapidly nearer, the high wall of apartment-houses, riddled with a thousand golden eyes, rose up to bar her progress, The track swerved in toward the deeper shadows; the wall sank down. Drawing level with her he laid his hand on her arm. “Birrel!” She flung him a challenging smile and tapped him lightly on the shoulder. She must have known that it was he who was following; she showed no surprise. Urging her horse to a faster pace, they rode knee to knee through the silence. At the bottom of a rise they reined in. She turned to him with her eyes half-closed. “So we meet again, in spite of He laughed shortly. “‘Why in spite of—? But what are you doing here?” She looked at him steadily, brushing the hair from her forehead. At last she answered: “I came out to be lonely.” He lowered his voice and leant out from his saddle. ‘“‘That doesn’t sound like Birrel. Why did you want to be lonely? No. Don’t shake your head. Be friends and tell me.” He covered her hand with his own, repeating, “Tell me.” She fidgeted; half withdrew her hand, then thought better of it. “If you must know, be- cause I couldn’t be with you.’ His success exceeded his expectations and blunted his daring. ‘Ah, yes; I’ve been horribly busy lately.” “And Aline?” She enquired. It was her way of speaking that told him— she had guessed everything. He confirmed her conjectures and left the road open. “Nowadays Aline’s always busy as far as I’m concerned.”

OOR Dan!” She turned her face away from him and pressed his hand gently. At last, loath to separate, they emerged at the Fifth Avenue entrance. “‘D’you often ride so late?” he asked. She took his smeaning quickly. times. Do you?’ He stumbled over his words. think—couldn’t we do it again?” She gazed into his eyes shyly. like to.” He grew bolder at parting. perhaps.” She “eo outright. ‘ Perhaps—and not perhaps. Call me up to-morrow afternoon.” He watched her ride away into the vivid thoroughfare, with the shield of night spread over her, dull as gun-metal studded with lamps for gleaming jewels. On the point of vanishing she turned; he thought she waved to him. Loneliness crept back. Like a man who has struck his last match and hollows his hands to prolong its burning, he stood treasur- ing his sense of elation. Into the unkindness of his days she had brought the warmth of trust and appreciation. She fascinated him as a makeshift, because his heart was empty. He was admirably clear-headed: in a mood to gaze past gay pretenses and to foresee the end—flowers to lure his first steps, then dark- ness and the precipice. In the hall of his apartment he surprised his wife on the point of departure. Without hesitating he put his arm about her. “Aline, don’t go. I’m _ sorry. Let’s spend the evening together.” Her eyes became fugitive—the eyes of a wild thing trapped. ‘1’ve—I’ve got to go.” He tried to draw her to him; she resisted and huddled beneath his arm with her face averted. His speech became thick in its earnestness. ‘‘There are things we must talk about—things that have made us_ both wretched.” She stood free from him. “I know—I know—if you’d spoken earlier—but I’m ex- pected.” Where was se expected? By whom? His jealousy was roused. He noticed that she carried something rolled up behind her muff and concealed by it. Before he could ask any question she had slipped out. Sitting by the fire, waiting for her return, he tried to read a book; but it was Aline, always Aline, that he saw before him. When her footstep at last sounded in the passage, he was so unnerved that he scarcely dared trust himself to rise. The door opened. He laid aside his reading with a pretence at leisureliness. He had frightened her before by his ardour; now he planned to reassure her by appearing calm and collected. She leant across the threshold, her chin snuggled against the furs that went about her throat, her face adorable in its smallness, her eyes fluttering. He took a step towards her. Hastily she drew back, pulling the door after her. “I only came to tell you that I’m home. I’m tired. I’m going straight to bed.” The door closed. “Oh, Aline, one minute!” Either she had not heard or was unwilling to attend. He waited doubtfully, hoping for her return; then went back to his chair. (Continued on page 128) “Some- “Don’t you “T should “To-morrow,

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=~ eC UU - ewer es © OE ees ow Others have thought it impossible It may seem almost impossible to you, but we can take any gowns which you have discarded as being absolutely worthless or out of date, and reconstruct them into the very newest Spring and Summer creations at a very moderate price. This is the reason we have built up the largest business in United States in Gown Remodelling We fit you just as well | If our price does not as though you had | meet with your ap- been right in our shop | proval, we will glad- for try-ons. We abso- | ly return gowns to lutely guarantee satis- | you by express pre- faction in every re- | paid. spect. We print below a letter received from a lady for whom we remodeled a gown recently. This is only one of many letters we receive complimenting us on our work. February 20, 1917. My dear Mme, Rose: ny ae I am very much pleased with gown, and only regret that I toatl not send you still an- other gown. My dress which you remodeled fits me perfectly, not a oe ok or seam needed to be touched. Your workmanship is splen did. Your materials are so refined and tasty. Your style ts artistic, and I want you to know how delighted I am with the on gown you reconstructed for me Cordially yours, « a on Request Mme. ROSE Une.) Gowns Reconstructed AND MADE TO ORDER 13 W. 39th Street - New York Telephone, Vanderbilt 277 Not a new cream. but an old favorite that has withstood com- petition for over 15 years. Made from beneticial oils sweetly per- fumed. Guaranteed free from animal fats or injurious chemi- cals — guaranteed Si atisfactory or your money back Magda Cream has always been used by the most famous women of the. stage—and who are more ex- acting Magda Cream comes in three sizeg —25-cent tubes, the beautiful 50 cont i ‘a Japanese jar illustrated, and 75-ce1 ze 2e ang 2 tins. Sold by druggists and east ment stores. If your dealer can't The famous “Jersey Lily,’’ whose beauty supply you, order direct. (3) thrilled the theatrical world in the ’80’s, wrote us that Magda Cream was ‘Excellent, and so THE MAGDA COMPANY pleasant to use.’”’ We prize this letter in ® memory of a sonality that the world will 312 W. Randolph St., Ceicuge: cc i. eee TTT TIT | 1 | TTT “ds wonderful in quality as is the voice of the World's Greatest Singer” CREPE de CHIN Tinie 36 inches wide—$1.35 a yard (We pay the parcel post) Colors: White, Flesh, Navy. Black Buy Direct from the Manufacturer We make nothing but Crepe de |& Chine, and only in this standard [E quality and in the above colors. = We issue no Catalog, but if you are = not perfectly satisfied in every re- = spect with your purchase, your money will be returned without [E question. Always send remittance with order. Sz = ples sent if de- Write to-day for our complete Catalog sired; Specify olor ‘*F-4"' or call at Exhibition Rooms el etd SILK COMPANY 95-B Madison Avenue New York TMM TTT viduality for the smallest cost direct from our factory. can stand back of the product. LOTT 2 West 47th Street | First Door West of Fifth Avenue--4th Floor Tm F Decorative Furniture Exquisite furniture at modest prices in the old Venetian Colorings or Natural Wood Tones held in stock ready to finish on short notice. A complete scheme for each room worked out for you from block print or old piece will give the maximum charm_ and _ indi- Your choice from a line of our own manufacture will be finished as a unit for you, and sent The maker alone poe not fail to call when you are In New ork. ERSKINE - DANFORTH CORPORATION New York HOST of lovely, new designs and _ color- ings will now be found at your local deal- ers. See them before you have a Dress, Frock or Suit made. You'll know these famous silks by the guarantee ©GELDINC'SS® woven in the selvage. Y | Dainty, durable Dress Silks, |, Lining Silks, Petticoat Silks. $1.25 to $2.50 a yard. (36 inches wide.) Belding’s Sewing Silks are full strength, guaran- teed not to split, snarl or ravel. Best for hand or machine sewing. Belding Bros. & Co. New York Saltimore San Francisco Soston Chicago St Fi Philadelphia St. Louis Cincinnati Sew With Silk and Use Belding’s Belding’ Dress Sitks Ce SEs Inc. Complete display of Paris modes, also Ex- clusive Blaine Creations—the accepted fashion inspirations of the season. RA te ROE RARDOE CP ee r BA Coats New York Gowns Tailored Frocks 1 East 53rd Street OR PSS HST ERE RRR Tee Let me send you sample of . Xclton Gibso my skin tonic Enongh for two weeks--a charming little bottle containing the genuine Gibson Skin Tonic, so much appreciated by the readers o arper’s Baz ney te seen pms —_ yur ment under ‘* Beauty Culture.’’ Now we take first time that will work we onder rs with your ¢ mpie xion. » the sample apply a it on_until almost dry sample ents in stamps iitth Skir Tonic with cot low with face powd ct your face against wince and cold. In three days’ time you will see t ifference; in the full two weeks that the sample lasts, the change will surprise lears and whitens the skin, tightens sagging muse! es. G uar ‘an tec -d non-injurious to the most delicate skin. The sample will cor ts today; this offer thay be withdrawn without notice. Miss M. KELTON GIBSON, 185 Madison Avenue, New York Note: To present satisfied patrons of Gibson's Skin Tonic—-full size bottle is $1. Rouge $1.Shin Food $1. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Basar, April, 1917

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“Yes! The genuine “Waterfall” made by Sport coats designed and made by Wm. Fischman, Inc. Hats by Phipps Shoes by Cammeyer These sport coats of ‘ ‘Wate srfall Check” and “Waterfall Stripe” may be pur- chased from Franklin Simon & Co., New York Mandel Brothers, Chicago and other leading stores, Always look for the label in the coat. It identifies the genuine fabric. The shimmering beauty and lustre of “Waterfall” is found in no other fabric. The deep shadows and contrasting high lights, reveal an ever changeable and delightful kaleidoscope of color. Ye Aclon Loon Sidney Blumenthal & Co. Inc. Dept. 21 397 Fourth Avenue New York Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Basar, 7 April, 1917 Her Back to the Wall (Continued from page 126) His thoughts were bitter. Was she in love with some other man? He had done his best. If she didn’t want him, why shouldn’t he—? Nevertheless, he wouldn’t phone the auburn-haired girl to-morrow. And yet— Next afternoon he telephoned Birrel. He unhooked the receiver and replaced it three times before he did it. But he did it that afternoon, and the next, and the next. By riding in the park after nightfall, they had invented a new indiscretion in the least discreet of cities. Its novelty quickened their zest for adventure. Within gunshot of the deluging glare of Broadway, where sky-signs are constellations, they could be as solitary as Bedouins in a desert. Yet always they seemed in danger of pursuit. Like creatures | huddled in the last of the standing wheat when harvest is in the cutting, they heard the roar of traflic, like the scythes of conscience, narrowing their island of refuge. At each threat of discovery they crouched nearer for | security. | They garbed temptation with the innocence of make-believe—assumed réles, spoke in | queer dialects, gave to familiar sights quaint | Should | coming. 12 names to make them unfamiliar, and feigned to be children. Aline’s name was often on their lips. That they should speak of her threw over their conversation the appearance of propriety. They mentioned her with pity and kindness. Dan spoke of her with the wistful self-pity we employ when we reveal the intimate con- fidences of our dead. He recalled the beauti- ful discoveries he had made concerning her. It was curious. He made his heart a museum —a public place for Birrel to walk through. Once, when he was speaking of Amboise, she said: “I’d like to go there—just you and I together. I wonder if we shall ever—” She caught the quick hardening of his expression. In loving her he was loving Aline by proxy. Aline lift an eye-lash in encourage- ment her reign would be over. She knew it. ON a moonlight canter her hair shook free from its fastenings and fell gleaming like a golden snake across her shoulders. He begged her to let him help bind it. As his fingers sank into its silky meshes, he began to tremble. The words he was speaking trailed off into nonsense. He ceased speaking. Their lips met; their hearts stood tiptoe. In spite of its forbiddenness, perhaps because of it, the moment held a sacred awfulness. From that night it was she who did the retreating— he the advancing, Winter wore itself out. Spring was born in the cradle of the tree-tops, stared wide-eyed for a day at traveling clouds, then clambered down and ran laughing through the stone- paved city. Day lengthened. The park was no longer charitable. Night, like a host who opens his door grudgingly to guests who have outworn their welcome, kept them waiting for his A new place of refuge had to be devised. The scythes of conscience were cutting very close. It was he who suggested her house, and she who unwillingly consented. It stood red-fronted and old fashioned in a quiet street off Madison Avenue. It was furnished with heavy comfort, as it had been in her father’s time. Here and there she had added lighter touches—water colours and pastels, odds and ends picked up in Rome and Paris, expressive of gaiety of temperament. There were only servants to weave from his entrances and exits the materials of romance. It was a white evening in April. Day, like a truant child, refused to go to bed. A pot of hyacinths stood in the open window—his latest gift to her. The room was haunted by their fragrance. She was at the piano. He crept softly behind her and slipped his arms about her neck. Instead of resisting she leant her golden head against his shoulder, still playing, smiling up at him. “Sweetheart, I’ve got to go morrow.” Her hands crashed discord: intly. He seized them in his own, pressing them against her breast. He could feel, rather than see, that she was sobbing. “I didn’t dare to tell you. It’s to Europe. A business trip. I’ve post- poned and postponed.” He smoothed his lips against her hair; his voice became scarcely audible. “But I don’t have to go alone—do I?” She stiffened. To him her fear was ridicu- lous. He had come to it at last—the preci- pice. He looked down, hung far over, and laughed that it should ever have scared him. But she—she was all for evasion now, all for pe rsuading herself that it was not there. ‘Aline—” She attempted to make her tones unintere sted. “I don’t know. I sup- pose Aline He pressed his face against hers. child! Why suppose?” She lay back against him, her eyes closed. “7 don’t know. You think I’ m pretending?’ ‘ “Vou are,” he insisted. o one need know. We can sail togethe r.” She tried to clutch herself from him, her eyes wide. He held her fast; again she sank against him. He was explaining to her. away to- “Foolish 8 “The boat leaves the dock at midnight, I was so sure you’d come that I’ve booked a cabin for you. I can get through my business in London in a week, and then “Will you take me to Amboise?” He winced. There was a halt before he answered. With her woman’s tenacity she was adding one last laurel to her triumph. He hurried over his assent. ‘“‘To Amboise?— if you like. Now will you go?” OT until he had reached home that evening did he realize the decision he had arrived at. He watched Aline closely, Let her give one sign to recall him and— But Aline, that night and next morning went quietly about, packing his things for him, enquiring whether he wouldn’t require this and whether that wasn’t necessary. About eight, on the evening of his de- parture, he rose suddenly. She eyed him nervously. ‘‘What is it?” “T’m going.” “But you don’t need to go for three hours yet. r ‘IT know; but I’m going.” His voice was obstinate. She stared at him apprehensively. “But Dan, I was coming to see you off, and—’ He interrupted. be late ge tting home. escort you. He was already at the phone, calling for a taxi. Her back was to the wall. too far with her desperate strategy. She had held him too long at arm’s length. She had wanted him to learn about women— other women. She guessed with whom he was going. “But Dan—” He kissed her—kissed her like a starved man stealing shamefully under the eyes of the owner. The luggage was carried out. She must tell him—followed him to do so. The boy slammed the door of the elevator. Her husband scarcely looked at her. The furtive longing in his eyes spoke loudly. And he—all the way as he drove he was haunted; tormented by the sense of unaverti- ble tragedy; appalled by his heartsick mad- ness. The taxi pulled up. It was a full minute before he got out. The bravado of the gamester caught him—to play the game to the end. He squared his shoulders and masked his face with cheerfulness. She was sitting in the back room where their affair had grown to its climax. It was in darkness; he could only just make out her shadow. “ Birrel.” No answer. “Birrel!” He went over to her. Pity was in his heart for what this thing must mean to her. He put his arms about her gently. “Birrel, my poor dz urling!” She turned her face away tempted to kiss her. ‘You're frightened. T'll always be good to you. life in Her voice came to him low and steady. “T’m not frightened. I’m cold. I always have been cold. I’m sorry. It’s the way God made me.” Hs arms dropped from her. “Cold! Good Heavens! _ t it rather late in the day to discover—? You don’t mean—?” She slipped from him in the darkness oa hurried over to the door. For a moment, as it opened, she halted looking back. “I do. I’m not coming.” Left alone, he clenched his hands against “You needn’t. You’d There'd be no one to She had gone when he at- Don’t be frightened. I’ll spend my his forehead. So she was cold—she had always been cold! That was the trouble, was it? From the first she’d only been killing time in his company. She’d flattered him up to the danger-mark for her own amuse- ment; and the humiliation of it all was that he knew he deserved it. But that didn’t excuse her. Aline was right—he’d known nothing about women. Why—why, _ this woman, whom he’d set up as an example to Aline, was no more than a sentimental pick- pocket! He let himself out. In the street the taxi, piled with lugge ige, was waiting. He stepped in. The driver leant back for orders. To the man *s repeated question, he _ replied angrily: ‘‘Drive anywhere. Don’t you hear me? Anywhere from here, and do it quickly.” Thinking his fare was ill, the man drove him back to the house from which he had brought him. When his passenger did not alight, he went into the building and consulted with the janitor. The janitor rang up his apartment and, having been answered, came out into the street to render assistance. Dan allowed himself to be led as far as the elevator. He hesitated, seemed on the point of escaping, then gave orders for the taxi to wait for him. He’d make a clean breast of it. Before everything was ended he owed Aline that. (Continued on page 130) Ss sy | I

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Fiftieth Anniversary Year 129 Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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es that Burnish dealer’s name in exchange for our Ronblet, “* Your Hair.”’ 2349 So. Wabash Ave. the Jresses Your hair can be made to show its full natural beauty if brushed witha ANITA SUPER BRUSH Such a thing is not possible otherwise. The extra long, genuine Russian bristles used are so full of life, so vibrant, that they massage every strand of hair untilit ripples out in a beautiful, glossy cascade. Never have bristles of such quality been built into a brush at so moderate a price. They are attached in wire-bound metal cups in such a way that they can’t come out. And the Price is Only $4.00 The SANITAX Brush stands alone. It is the only brush so constructed with an openwork metal frame, that it can be instantly cleansed of every speck of dirt and hair-destroying germs by running hot waterthroughit. You oweitto your hair. No ordinary $10 brush will do the work. Every Sanitax Brush is stamped SANITAX. Accept no substitutes. Insist that your, dealer supply you with a SANITAX Super Brus Other styles $2.00 to $5.04 lso send us SANITAX BRUSH COMPANY Chicago, Illinois “A Treat to our Hair” ? quilt shown ved is made ie rose sateen with tralian lamb’ filling, Ros copyrighted design, price $30.00 a pair in the three-quar- ter size. The couch cover Canita satin Australian | wool fillin 9. mond Scr righted des price $30.00, mono gram as illustrated 5 Initials om $2 50 up Three letter mono- gram $5.00 and $6.00 up Quilts from $8.00 up, de pending on design size and material. copyrighted, therefore exclusive. Quilts, Couch Throws and Baby Quilts are » only on orders—in colors or patterns to match color-scheme or decoration, furnished when desired. Department B Beautiful Booklet H, in lors, sent upon request. Beautiful as the Springtime, warm as the April sunshine, yet wonderfully light, soft and fluffy—Wilkinson Art Quilts are a never- ending source of joy and pride to the happy possessor. needlecraft is superb, materials the finest ob- in silk, satin or sateen, with Australian wool, cotton or down filling. The designs Wilkinson Monograms or These wonder-quilts are ideal gifts, and happy is the bride who can count a Wilkin- son Quilt among her trousseau treasures Shipments on approval if reference is given. Samples materials submitted in various shades if colors lesired are stated. THE WILKINSON SISTERS Ligonier, Ind. Her Back to the Wal] (Continued from page 128) As he entered the hall of his apartment, he was surprised by the sound of music. The piano was being played weakly, by a poor amateur, but painstakingly. It was the tune of a French nursery rhyme that Aline used to whistle when she was happy—‘‘Sur le Pont d’Avignon”. As his hand touched the door of the room, the piano stopped abruptly. He peered in. He felt like an intruder who had omitted the courtesy of knocking. She had risen from the keyboard and stood beneath the lamp, her hands spread out— her back to the wall. They gazed at each other. It was he who broke the silence. “I’ve come back.” She said nothing. “Before I go away I’ve come back to tell you.” She stared at him. “T’ve come back to you”, he whispered hoarsely, “I’ve been a fool.”” When she still kept silence, he added, “I can go, if you don’t want me. I shouldn’t know where to go. She sank forward, her face in her hands. He stole timidly over and touched her. Her arms went about him. “You were—you were playing.” She lifted her face from his shoulder, smiling in that quaint way women do when they are proud of their crying. ‘Oh, Dan, I had to push you from. me before we could ever come nearer.” In that moment he understood, and yet not everything. “But—but you were playing.” She lowered her eyes. “Not playing only trying. I’m not clever. I wanted to learn for you. That was where I went,” her Ladies Continued J “Perhaps he thought it was none of your business, Edward, my dear,” she answered. “iverything connected with you is my business,” he returned. “Oh, Edward, what a dreary outlook for me!” “Christine, answer me! this man make advances to you? “Edward, he did.’ “What happened? “He gave mea it tiresome moral lecture, and judging by you, my dear, that is proof of affection. . “You're simply amusing yourself with me! “I’m not amusing myself very much, Edward, if that’s any comfort.’ “You drive me mad,” he said, and stamped away from her so hard that Ussher came up from the cellar. “What’s Edward doing?” he said. “He says he’s going mad,”’ returned Chris tine, “but I thought he was washing the dishes.” ‘There’s_ no pleasing Edward, ” said Ussher. ‘‘He was in my room at six o'clock this morning trying to get me to start a res- cuing party—and I needn’t tell you, Chris tine, we none of us had much sleep last night and now that he is here and finds you safe he seems to be just as restless as ever.””. And Did or did not Must ‘rom page 122) voice sank to a murmur, “all the long while that we weren’t together. "g A lump grew up in his throat. He could scarcely see her, though their lips were almost touching. “At last I begin to know you~ the real you, little Aline.’ She laughed chokingly. “You think $0; but I wonder if you do. You—you never knew anything about women. Wasn't that why I loved you? But you had to learn jn order—” He kissed her, finishing her sentence— “In order to know your worth. Now play something.’ , But in the middle of her playing he seized her hands. “I’ve an idea. How soon can you pack?” She eyed him whimsically. ‘Some women would take six months to think amen it, and then wouldn’t do it. They’d have to be clever women. But I—oh, I guess, if any body loved me, I could pack in an hour.” He lifted her off her feet. “Do it. She smoothed out her dress demurely, running her little “‘white mice hands”’ over the places where he had ruffled it. Then, “W here are we going?’ ‘To Amboise,” he whispered. “We al- ways planned to go back.’ She ran from the room lest he should again attempt to kiss her; then returned and hovered on the threshold, mist and dusk with the eyes of reality—a dream woman come true. ““D’you want me to help you?” he asked eagerly. She twisted her mouth at the tender ab- surdity. ‘‘Not to help just to watch me, to have you near me always. ° , Live Ussher returned to the cellar still grumb! ling. “You know why I’m restless, Christine,” Hickson said when they were again alone Christine seemed to wonder. ‘The artistic temperament is usually given as the expla- nation, but somehow, in your case, Ed- ward—” He came and stood directly in front of her “Christine, what did happen last night?” Although not a muscle of Miss Fenimer’s face moved, she knew very well that this was a turning-point. She had the choice between killing the scandal, or giving it such life and strength that nothing - her marriage with Riatt would ever allay it. She knew that a few sensible words bal put Hickson straight, and Hickson would be a powerful ally. On the other hand if he came back plainly weighted with a terrible doubt, no one would ask any further evidence. The question was, how much would Riatt feel the responsibility of such a situation? It was a fighting chance. Themistocles, when he burnt his ships, must have argued in very much the same way, but probably not so rapidly. “There are some things, Edward,” Chris- tine said in a low, shaken voice, “‘that not discuss even with you.” Hickson turned away with a groan. (To be continued in the May issue) Mary Pickford Has a Word to Say (Continued from page 55) address written on the back of the picture. From experience I know that I ought not to expect to see the director, but I should ask to have my photograph filed for reference. In the meantime, leaving nothing to chance, every day I should make the rounds of the studios, for somebody might have been good enough to call the attention of the director to me as a “prospect”. To follow this plan a girl must have a home, or money enough to live on and keep well dressed, for even if fortunate enough to get on the list as an extra she may not be called for weeks. To go back to the things to do, a girl must make up her mind, after securing her chance, to give up every other interest for the sake of her work. Parts must be studied and rehearsed even more carefully than on the stage—be- cause one must tell in pantomime and facial expression a story which on the stage can be helped out by the spoken word. Making a name for yourself means working all day, “ Wouldst thou have a HE best of all servant stories comes T from London. A distracted house- wife wrote to a cook she had dismissed six months previously asking her to return to her service. In the meantime the cook with al! her family had gone to one of the big going without lunch perhaps, and sometimes working all night. It means st udying all the time. Let me give you an example: if I am to act the part of a shop-girl, into the shops I go and study the types of girls behind the counter. I try to pick out the one who is only working until she gets married and the one who is planning to become a buyer. I try to learn what they do for recreation. I do the same if I am to take the part of a chorus girl. I study the girl who goes direct- ly home at night, drinks milk and goes to bed, and also the one who does otherwise. Study human beings constantly, you must, in order to do good film work. I find myself studying the policeman on a corner; even the street cleaners. You can not effectively work into a picture where you are surrounded by all sorts of people unless you comprehen them. It is, after all is said and done, a case of living for your work and making that work as human as possible. servant sting thee?” munition plants to work, and from there this reply was dispatched: “Dear Madam:—I too am looking for 4 maid and am feeling quite desperate because it is so hard to find servants nowadays.” \@ 2 3 ~ Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 130

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de J.M.GIDDING & Go. Then, MTIHAP ioe a Trade Mark Reg. _ SPRING & SUMMER FASHIONS com from PARIS - bog ther with ther oun wdeas “- GOWNS WRAPS SUITS COATS BLOUSES SWEATERS SUMMER FURS HE modern woman of culture and A Dyas Notelies artistic discernment is most exacting * in the scrutiny of her motor carriage ing HATS ano PARIS MILLINERY appointments. Each one, however minor, - — must be in pleasing harmony with the dic- sai Lflh drenue.at 464 beet titi of" “t tates of good taste. Xpla —— ° Ed i. Na York CIC NNT The ultra-smart patterns and modish ULUTH ther color tones of Motorweave woolen auto- ght?” mobile robes have won instant favor under mer s . . . . . 3 Was fare NRO MRM NNER rare the most searching feminine examination. ween a a i tan ii nes . . > and You will find Motorweave today in cars vith an . . . . hee amid surroundings that bespeak its merit ios New Thought even among the most fastidious. ve bac Help You? | _ — ees ones The ne ings, e ore belleved conslIs- Bec it's New Hope, | tent with highest quality robes. These nspliration and cour- | . . n he age. same women have been quick to avail very It’s N Light | . en oat he | themselves of this new economy. ai — Feminine aptitude in the ready discern- I can - nT It’s New Methods i ili j ¢ : ELIZABETHTOWNE It's New Methods —_ of values is an unfailing guide to ’ power, persona l qua ity. ? | | ane magnetism, mental faculties and talents. wae net 5. y) \ (PE) tes a New Way to attract love, friends | Motorwecve may be had at leading de- \ _'' /= | and heart’s desire. Sanitary Maids ba || Hundreds of letters tn our files prove the abore. partment stores. The price is six seventy- a -| The Gist of New Thought five. Every robe is guaranteed. y 7 by Paul Ellsworth, will show you how to use this y 8 cpa ecto a 5 a eit, Paayrengy to al of New ought. explains: 0 » AWakel e Latent Powers The ‘Supreine Truth on Which Joy- The Wallace & Smith Company imes ous, § ess a 8 ‘ounded; How to Re- % I the re, ‘Seceeetal tn Nome Werk; low te Mawr ioe La Porte, indiana Cc e F ccess) 0 ) 4 I am ilsnee: The ee Results of Using New ops I wits the New Thought AW > i Re ian at Motorweave is ideal as well for 1 the Desire : How to Comment with the Spiritual Supply, eer ge comping and sone: ho is and many other things. porch use. ere are other won- wi will send you this book derful Wallace & Smith Company 1 : For 10 cents } ¥ a 3 months’ trial values at somewhat higher prices. r. 4 subse a Nautilus, Y "le ae aN —— See them at your dealer's. n. I : oe a lee be On te Mar: Always, be guided by the Mo- of a are not only absolutely correct—but © | Gen, Horatio W. Dresser, Ph.D., Edward B. War- torweave Man and by the labels irect- the clean and healthful conditions un- = man, A.M., ylides A. Churchill, Christian D. shown in this purchasing sugges- a5 es hi 2 2 safeguard E zarson, contributors. tion. sb ad — ey ate mands eee = | Send NOW and we will include‘ HowToGet What You Want!"" You will be interested in our ta ; _ | THE ELIZABETH TOWNE CO., Dept. B-19, Holyoke, Mass. color-tone brochure showing com- me if i . - ae ; plete line of robes. Mailed upon \ysei No. 354—TuFold model eng ci request. even & above—Can be worn either high a et ek. cee DRESS Ay, COSTUME pismo ise ni = romn cotto ongee; detac ) greturnsin large hend = hem-stitched white organdie collar = DESIGN ILLUSTRATION gsi towns. We ; case = and cuffs. $4.00. q e io work H Slightly more in the far West. LA MODE UNIFORMS are sold ; ” in good stores everywhere in a va- riety of smart models. or - g THE ONE “STUDIO IN NEW - 2 Write for Booklet “H” and compli- | PERRI Bee » this | mentary copy of “Your Maid and A Hesecotion, Sixi ATL NT ea EC RET 2 low She Shoulc ress.” ; fora Mr Hartmann at commer al and publce sits tea¥ obsesoneteh caus : va ned. reggae THE FASHION ACADEMY »~ LAYS ano GREEN - Sirndtinats XU Saneatey stent a AUTOMOBILE ROB = ever uden a ’ "= 352 FOURTH AVE. NEW YORK . E $s Trade Mark Reg. Fiftieth Anniversary Year 131 Harper's Basar, April, 1917,

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Kohler Quatity, The plumbing ware you select for your new home is to be a permanent part of it. quality and beauty. In choosing KOHLER WARE you are sure of the highest quality, because that quality goes into all KOHLER products, KOHLER WARE always of one quality—the highest While KOHLER Bath Tubs, Lavatories and Sinks are selected forthe finest homesand For this reason it is important to consider One-piececonstruc- tionand other hygienic features of KOHLER WARE make cleans- Passed by To raise money to supply the deficit in its usual economic life, a program of artistic entertainments, such as national matinées, has been undertaken. Mentone and the other villages along the Riviera all have their com- mittees in active working order. The mayors hotelkeepers, doctors, architects, artists and representatives of every branch of commerce and industry, together with the railroads, are united in one gigantic effort to fill the vide left by the suppression of their annual fétes. The best artists from the national theatres in Paris are sent down to the Riviera to make up the programs of these matin¢ées, and lectures are being given by the first con- Jérenciers of France. At the first entertain- ment held in Nice, tables by the hundred were retained in advance at from two dollars to ten dollars apiece. T would not be quite fair perhaps to say that the “civils”, who are not actually fighting at the front, are getting hardened to the war; but the poor rich people along the Riviera have grown less hysterical and more practical in their sentiments. For instance, instead of going themselves to wash the soldiers’ faces every morning before break- fast, and in lieu of spoiling thousands of bolts of gauze, as they did last year, in trying to make bandages with hands unaccustomed to grasping anything more complicated than a china teacup, they have now conceived the admirable subterfuge of sending their ser- vants two or three days a week to do the job. The result is very satisfactory. The bandages are well-made, the stockings are properly knit into wearable shapes—and the mondaine is happy in being able once more to act like her real self. HERE is something almost startling in the assertion that Englishwomen are, in the midst of the greatest war ever known, dressing better than ever before. The state- ment is made by a Frenchwoman who runs a big dressmaking establishment in Paris. The average Englishwoman used to dress very badly; she was led away by colour never nicely shod, and her hats were frightful. Now she wears dignified colours and tailored things chiefly; her foot-gear is neat and elegant because of her short skirts, and alto- gether she is paying far more attention to the Censor (Continued from page 49) profits, over pre-war years? Nothing short of an Act of Parliament will compel the women to economize on clothes. VERY one has heard of the hostel of St Dunstan, Sir Arthur Pearson’s working home for blind soldiers and sailors in Regents Park, but if one has a particular man there to look after the interest is even greater. A soldier belonging to an American journalist who was dug out at Ypres last August, totally blind, with legs and arms useless from shrapnel, is now able to walk about the grounds. Like all others in similar condition, he guides himself by strips of carpet or hand- rails arranged for this purpose. On the occasion of a recent visit from his patron his first exclamation was, “Oh, it’s great here! They don’t give you time to think about yourself at all. And what do you think they said first thing? Asked me if I had brought my dancing pumps. Yes, they did! Seems they teach us to dance here, and every Friday night we have a hop. Will you come sometime? Oh, yes, I am learning to typewrite, so I can write my pals at the front. And they have given me a watch that has raised dots where the figures are so I can tell the time. I can make bags, and I can walk about the grounds by the aid of those nice railings they have put up. I’m g0 happy, do tell everybody about it.” And the visitor did, for to see two hundred totally blind men being taught trades and to be independent, chiefly through the personal efforts and means of a man who himself is blind, is a fine sight. To see them, with heads up, march cheerfully out of their work- shops at the sound of the lunch whistle and go along the paths leading to the house, holding on the rails that guide them. brings a lump to the throat. Sometimes they lose the rail and bump into each other, but with a joke or a laugh they grope their way to it again and go on. MERICAN women in London are keenly interested in the war relief work that Lady Kingston, the wife of the Irish earl, is doing. Many a separation allowance that would have gone by default is heing paid to illiterate Irishwomen through her efforts. Lady Kingston sought out the poor women who never would have known of the Govern- AANA Or,’ ¢ . rhe she wears q > %e rich 7 * It’s in apartments, manufac. ing easy. what she — than formerly. ' ome ’s a for them, — * the . : The real reason for this change probably _ plications for allowances, and carried on all par turing economies ena- Write for a free -opy lies in the fact that — woman who necessary correspendence. Now = .. in of our interestin: ook, often dressed extravagantly has now toned America raising an endowment fund of a — Enamel” ble us to make these “KOHLEROFKOHLER.” down her clothes, and the other women who hundred thousand dolars for a home in were dowdy, partly because they had little Dublin where disabled Irish soldiers will be to dress on with increased wages and extra treated and taught trades. Men who return high quality products It has illustrations of the available for less ex- many different patterns of from the front, broken in health and over- pensive houses, cot- tells ll about them. tages and bungalows. A —=_—_ Address Dept. H-4. KOHLER CO. Founded 1873 Kohler, Wis. Boston NewYork Philadelphia Atlanta Pittsburgh Chicago Indianapolis i Detroit St.Paul St.Louis Houston San Francisco London ® The star indicates the location of the KOHLER permanent trade-mark in faint blue. Los Angeles Seattle _ Columbia Lavatooy, K-205A,. KOHLER WARE and " geraiatee the many exclu- sive articles can be found this life sized Jap baby. $15. The cushion on which he sits has a black satin center, satin puff embroidered and decorated with garlands of beads. $15. STRASBURGER Lamps : Shades : Novelties money earned by themselves have better clothes than they could afford before the war. Eve apparently has wholly ignored the huge economy posters and exhortations of the Government, and is spending her new-found money on the very latest and best of fig- leaves. Otherwise how is one to account for the greatly increased profits of the drapers whose balance sheets for last year show doubled profits, and in two cases quadrupled The Last old dancers; that the old dancers look abso- lutely ridiculous in my eyes is of no conse quence to them, so firmly set are they on dancing. ¢ I am making evening cloaks of Oriental persuasion in vivid colourings. One is ar- ranged with a yashmak, which, by the way, is the most becoming Oriental mode that I have ever adapted. If the yashmak is not liked in its normal position, it is equally at- tractive twisted round the head. I am making Chinese coats of black or- gandie, heavily embroidered and tasseled, to be worn over bright-coloured house skirts, and chiffon frocks in which a hoop effect is | achieved by embroidered organdie. I am making organdie wisps of dresses, full and transparent, and evening gowns of stately brocades weighted down by their gold and silver flowers. I am making billows of fancy lace, accentuated by bows of satin; cloudy tulle held together by tiny silk flowers; and mysterious trailing black robes held to the body only by jewels. , I am making coquettish Pompadour silks for the young, and checked taffetas with old- world bouffants and grandmamma’s collars. I am making large shady hats, and bonnets— ves, bonnets!—tied under the chin in a de- mure and delightful way; and tiny toques and cowboy felts, and Spanish toreadors And I am making last, but not least. tea- gowns so delectable that no female creature can resist them. But I am not going to tell you one single thing about them, Mr. Editor, Word in (Continued from page 73) whelmed by their misfortunes, will be helped in the tremendous readjustment that they face, and, when they have learned to live and work again, sent back to their own villages and people. A site and building having al- ready been given in Dublin, it only remains to secure funds for current expenses. Countess Granard, Lady Barrymore, Mrs. Adair, Lady Decies and others are assisting in the project. Fashions fair Venus of a girl. She stood betore me in all her compelling pink and cream loveli- ness, so I took some heavy, soft flesh pink peau de rose satin, an empiécement of dia- monds and pearls and a floating scart ol Persian scarlet tulle with silver embroi deries—and my fingers fashioned on that girl a gown of perfect simplicity When | left it, with only a few pins holding it together. it looked quite finished. It took the form of a Tosca gown with a long long train dividing into two tails. My goldfish that everlastingly swim round and round their crystal bow! inspired me with this idea. The bodice—what there was of it!—was a diamond and pearl motif, ana the scarlet tulle scarf was twisted round the arm and crept after the lady on the ground, just to accentuate the beauty of the perfect arms of this divine young girl. Quite in contrast to this creation, I have labourously worked out with my tailor a sports suit of white tussore with shaped bands of blue tussore stitched on the white. The jauntiest kind of a little coat is of the Ma- donna blue tussore lined with the white. If desired it can be turned inside out and worn as a white coat lined with blue. so perfect is the art of sewing acquired by my tailor. A little hand-made blouse of handkerchief linen is worn with it. a cowboy hat of pale pink felt and a pink enamel cane having an onyx top and a rim of tiny turquoises Yours truly. as a punishment for your insistence on this W egotistical letter ; , 2 est 57th Street, New York I will describe to you in detail, however. ov_clu~ L the gown that is my chosen one in my latest. a | collection. It was created by me on a a Fiftieth Anniversary Year 132 Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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at Fifth A Paris eee eee Tee ll] A New Hanan Fifth Avenue Shop For the convenience of our patrons we have opened our newest New York shop venue and Forty-third Street, where they may depend upon receiving prompt and courteous assistance in the selection of correct shoes forall occasions. Hanan & Son 516 Fifth Ave., Cor. 43rd Street New York 1: oli London GENTLEMEN’S TRAVELLING SET Something a man really needs! Contains 12 pieces, includ- ing Shaving utensils, brushes, etc. Soft, pliant leather within...... $15.00 We carry a complete line of travelling sets for Men or Women at prices rang- ing from $5.00 up. Westin 905 Chestnut Street Philadelphia, Pa. Special:—We will engrave in script one hundred per- sonal Calling Cards for $1.75. Plate is yours or we will retain it. Send for samples of Engraved Calling Cards, Wedding Invita- tions, Announcements, etc. y Ea yscA . KEYVA PERLES | ae LATAY PEARLS o ie Natural, beautifully graduated or uniform size, sixteen inch neck- lace. Pearl Rosee tint. Solid white gold clasp set with genuine dia- mond. Encased in grey velvet satin lined cab- inet like picture. Complete at your JEWS sob cccacss giving his name. Booklet FREE per necklace. PROVIDENCE Sold throughout the world ILLER LANGDON E SKIN FOOD Wonderfully effective for the skin. née to MODELS FACIAL CONTOURS Elimi- ates wrinkles and delicately molds the face a youthful contour. Jars are $1 and $2. Miller Lan,Jon Skin Tonic refines enlarged pe ores and firms sagging facial muscles. Bottle, $1.50. M a L qu WwW WHILE YOU SLEEP B A or Frowners smooth out the wrinkles and crow’s feet that mar your beauty. They are absolutely harm- less—simple and easy to use—a toilet neces- sity. Made in two styles. Frowners for be- cooem Ba eyes. Eradicators for lines in Either. "hind sold in 25c., 50e. and $1.00 boxes, including a book let “Dressing Table Hints,” at drug and department stores every- where. If your dealer is out, sent direct, ees * er of price. P. Co. (Two Women) 1792 E GSth, Street, Cleveland, Ohio MILLER LANGDON, 665 Fifth Ave., (Cor. 53rd St.) Plaza 9425 Wrinkle eatin iller Langdon Cucumber Cream freshens faded skin. Jars are $1.50 and $2.50. Treatments for the restoration and mainte- nance of acial beauty are given by Miller angdon personally, after the in dividual re- lirements of the face have been studied. rite or phone for an appointment. NEW YORK Inc., Bob Betty's soap ts very pure and will not hurt you that is sure. You cannot wash Bob Retty’s away because they are put on the soap to stay BOB- Serty *30: a box of For og Children 3 cakes “THE,sPICTURES DON’T WASH OFF* For sale by Gift and Specialty Shops, Drug and Department Stores, or from BARBARA ELIZABETH inc. 547 Main Street Beacon. N.Y. ___ Manu) facturere of* “Bob- Betty's’ 3’ * Toilet Specialties (ARBQNA Cleaning Fluid Better than ohthe or Cannot Benzine, Naphtha or Gasoline for .s burnor 9 explode Je 15¢ 25¢50¢2$100 = Al) Druggists Cleaning soa 133 “10 If not at your jewelers, order and remit direct, Other La Tausca qualities up to $150 THE LOW-TAUSSIG-KARPELES CO. RHODE ISLAND La TAUSCA LABORATORIES, PARIS, FRANCE | | | | | — Designed expressly for this | Charming Screen Beauty Cluster of 10 small drooping curls fastened to a shell hatr pin. Stick tt into your hatr and tt forms a fetching, fash- tonable finish for the knot on the crown of your head or lower down. You will love tt. No. 88011 Extra quality, $2.60. No. 88031 Standard quality, $1.50. Postpaid. Grays extra. MONEY BACK IF NOT SATISFIED Write for ‘Vogue Coiffures’”’ our FREE CATALOG of Guaranteed Hair-Goods CURLS aa WAVES SWITCHES BANGS wics PUFFS BRAIDS FRINGES POMPA- TRANSFOR. DOURS \] MATIONS Wigs sal os senme for Men. FRANCES ROBERTs Co. Hoan Fifth Ave. Dept. 249 New York UK» ; Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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At home or traveling, whether the water is hard or soft, find that the very simplest and most effective CANTHROX SHAMPOO and waviness is brought out to its best This ee pe perfumed hair cleanser has been because it immediately dissolves and removes and fens s the first shampoo removes most of the find the fl

Your hair’s natural beauty when you use Canthrox favorite for many dandruff, dirt and excess oil | than it is. The very eeding shampoo, you

dandruff and ikes smalle suce¢ No good hair wash costs less; ne Just dissolve a teaspoonful of ( about cents easily se three a shampoo d or works so thoroughly throx in a cup of hot water and you have saturate all your hair instead of just the For this reason Canthrox is the all the impurities. Free Trial Offer soet pleasant, the idly d one This is more top of the head, as is ordinarily case. one away that Canthrox is the hair wash, we will gl most simple, in all ways perfect shampoo free to To prove most effective address. sen

none Shampoo that loosens and carries any H. S. PETERSON & CO., Dept. 15, 214 W. Kinzie St., CHICAGO, ILL.

women hair cleanser is advantage the all hair so fluffy it seems ont h heavier after each and fewer until they disappear. 15 Exhilarating Shampoos for § 50c at Your Druggist’s is enough shampoo liquid to entirel the the

Mme. Sophie’s Gowns reflect the chic Parisian effect that appeals so much to the best dressed women of the stage

his appreciation from Virginia Pearson, star in “Bitter Truth’ is typical of the hundreds of letters and photographs | have received from the best dressed women of ihe stage, and of Society. Really smart gowns, at really moderate prices. Mme. SOPHIE The Claridge Shop 161 Wes: 44th St., New York

That Other Eileen (Continued from page 48) slight, boyish figure, his steadfastness and protecting care. It was as if no moment of those lost years had been without him. And All the while she was married to Alistair Gray! It was while she was in this mood, one night, that Eileen was summoned to the telephone. A man’s voice answered. ‘This is Alistair, Eileen!” E ileen struggled a moment for words. ““Good evening, Doctor Gray,” she said inadequately at last. cileen!”’ Eileen strove to compose herself, then answered: “If you please, I would rather not speak to you.”’ Then losing her self-control, ‘Promise you won’t come to — you'll leave me alone till I say. Oh, I don’t want to hate you, but—I do, I do!’ ‘That’ s enough, Eileen,” said the quiet voice. “‘Try to forgive me if you can—and remember, I promise. But I called you up because there is a letter for you here. Victor Hardy, the man you were to marry, has written you. I am forwarding the letter. But in justice to me, please do not receive him until I have seen you. I have a most important reason for asking this—not a sel- fish one. The re are some things which you must know.’ ‘A letter from Victor?” was Eileen’s only answer. In spite of herself her voice vibrated with joy. “Yes,” * said Dr. Gray. “You willdo what I ask? Assenting reluctantly, mainly because she could not escape feeling that her husband had the moral right to make this stipulation, hate him as she might, she said good-bye. ee wrote what was frankly a love- letter. Eileen—poor Eileen!—re ad it over and over. He asked forgiveness, Alistair had. Men seemed always wanting forgive ness, thought Eileen. What was there to forgive? Alistair had guessed correctly. Victor begged to come to see Eileen once more—she was his—she had always belonged to him! as

FILE <N threw down the letter. The vision of Victor had never been more vividly present. It was as if she had never been parted from him. Every impulse was a wild desire to go to him go straight to her lover! After all, why should she keep vows that the other Eileen had made to Alistair Gray? But—she had promised! The little figure paced up and down the long room, thinking, thinking. The soft, satin skirts that billowed around her, the very pins in her red-brown hair, belonged to that other Eileen. She delayed answering Victor’s letter, and tried by every device to divert her thoughts, which were becoming unbearable. But the books she started to read were all half- re- membered, and she could hear Victor’s voice in every sentence. His presence echoed through her music. And once she came across the old waltz: “Your dream-love, “Wait for her; “She ‘ll—be—true—” It was a fresh copy—that other Eileen must have known the song. It seemed so; yet no hateful memory of the cool grey eyes and grey hair of the tall man arose now when she played it. It reminded Eileen only of Victor. In the morning—when honour seems more real and love less seductive—she wrote to Victor. She held herself in check, saying nothing of her love; she told him simply that he must not come to see her. She must have time to think and decide. But she forgave him—if there was anything to forgive. Eileen took the letter to the mail-box at the gate. It was not until she touched the lace at her breast and found it wet that she rea- lized she had been crying. Victor answered immediately. He would not come till Eileen said that he might—and he loved her. That was nearly all. He did not write, somehow, quite the way she ex- pected. The phrases and his use of words jarred upon her acute sense of fitness. But that is a common enough thing. He loved her! That atoned for all. So Eileen waited and thought and agonized. For a fortnight she alternated between a wild desire to see Victor, and a chill feeling that nothing mattered much after all; that dull half-living was the best that could happen to her. At least both men had given her the same promise. She need not expect either one until she summoned him. Then a tumult of emotion overwhelmed her and with a sob she made a prayer: ““O God, let him come— only just once more! I will be so good—I will be so fair—I won’t let him kiss me—I won’t even let him touch me. Ill be very cold, very careful, only send him, dear God; please send him!” And God seemed to answer, for as Eileen paced up and down the garden the next night, she saw a man standing at the gate. She recognized him instantly—the vivid face, the ‘lert figure that had haunted her ever since ner awake ning. ‘Victor!’ said her heart,

but in her per- —s her lips could not utter the name. “T will not come in unless you say I may,’ said the man in the quick, pleading voice she remembered so well. He leaned over the gate, slender, not ov ertall, his brilliant dark eyes seart hing hers. ‘“‘It’s so long!’ he plead- ed. ‘Won't you give me back my promise, Eileen, and let me in? What was it she had promised—to be very cold, very careful? For she was neither, She had his hands in hers before she knew it, “Oh, I have wanted you so!”’ she said. “Then you do forgive me? You do love me yet? You do remember me?”

HE words hurried on in the old swift way so well remembered. He drew her close to him. It seemed so right and so natural! And yet through all something far back in Eileen’s brain urged to be heard. She must go back to Alistair—there was some good reason she should remember. But it was all so dim and confused—this man with his arms around her was the only real thing in the world. “TI don’t think I ever really forgot you,” she whispered. ‘Everything I have touched or done, even in this house, has had you written all over it. It was just as if you had been with me always—always! And you know —oh, no matter what I seemed to do I know I always loved just you.” Walking towards a little bench, they sat down together. Eileen felt steadier now and dre w away a little. “But I have a right to what they have left me of my youth!” she told herself fiercely, “Nobody can blame me for that other Eileen’s doings.” Her lover laid his hand on hers. How well she remembered the warm protectiveness of that hand! pe our dream-love, “Wait for her; “She ‘Il—be—true— “Do you ever think of that thing you used to sing for me? You were my dream-love alwi Lys. “But if that is true,” the angry thought came, even with his arm about her, “if that is true, why did he marry that other woman?” A host of questions rose to her mind. He had married first. But it would spoil the hour for her to question now. There was plenty of time. The wonderful night was full of gentle murmurs and the perfume of flowers, and Eileen was happy for the first time since she had found herself. After all, who is to blame for anything? Perhaps even Alistair might have a just excuse. She shivered. She did not want to think of that other Eileen’s husband, whose ring was on her finger. She took away her hé ind. It—isn't right,’ be here with you.” He laughed. “Oh, my dear, more right?” “Tt isn’t right,” le ssly like a chili 1. “ Please £0, you come.” “Why wrong?” he asked. ‘“‘ You are going to belong to me again, surely, Eileen?’ She leaned wearily against him. “T am so tired, and it is so hard to do right! Ple: ise go now—dearest! “But I may come again, and you will have decided he said, his hands closing upon hers, and his bright dark eyes looking down into hers swimming with tears. ‘To-morrow night, Eileen. You can decide by to-morrow night easily.” He rose and went toward the gate. “I know now that you will make the right decision, che said gently, “‘and that it will be for me.” she said. “I shouldn’t my dear, what could be again she protested help- Her = filled with tears. she said, was wrong to let ND Eileen watched him go swiftly down the road, as she could remember watching him many, many limes before. Then she went back to the house to lie awake thinking till dawn. Divorce, yes, that was the way out, she decided. A ‘divorce could be obtained somewhere, of that she was fairly sure. Even juries had heard enough of suc h cases as hers to believe her and free her. Or perhaps Alistair Gray would relinquish his claim. He had been kind to her—he was being kind still. She lifted her eyes listlessly to the walls of the room. He was leaving her alone, certainly, in the midst of all these lovely things. And Victor had not waited. It was only chance that his wife had died and left him free. But had he played fair in coming to her WwW hen she had asked him not to? Yet Victor’s eager eyes and voice, and his ways that she knew so well and loved so well, ha revived all the old love, and even more. A passionate yearning for him—that was some- thing new—something that made her pulse be at faster—something that made nothing else matter. And she knew then the answer she would give him the next night. In the morning she got up singing, refreshed as if she had slept the whole night through. That other man, aD 7 on page 136)

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Fiftieth Anniversary Year 135 Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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Mc CALLS MAGAZINE now 10: acopy at any newsstand or McCall Pattern Agency The Nameless Man By Natalie Sumner Lincoln, is the big new serial of love and mystery, and startling climaxes like the snap of a whip. Begin it at once in the April issue, our Easter Annual Spring Fashion number, printed in March This is your a chance to ge it and all the other good stories at the old price. This Coupon saves you money Mail it today Fiftieth Jranklin Simon 8 Co. Fifth Ave., 37th & 38th Sts., New York Approved Orthopedic Lasts Children’s Shoes As the foot is shaped in childhood, so it grows in maturity. Healthy feet are those | given special care while the bones and liga- ments are tender. These shoes allow ample toe space while supporting the heel and ankle. p } Children’s Shoes | Hand-Made 5 to 6 yrs. Sizes 8 to 104 | | Tan Russia Calf, laced........ White Buckskin, laced........ Patent Leather "Shoes, Black Kid Top, | III Saks Retate ata, 2 wate oratocar wis baad \ 3 to4yrs. Sizes 5 to8 2.95 to 3.50 Baby’s First Shoes Hand-Made 6 mos. to 2 yrs. Sizes 1 to 5 1.75 to 2.00 ] Your Last Chance to get the Old Price on ME CALLS MAGAZINE For nearly fifty years you have paid 50c a year for McCALL’S MAGAZINE. Now the price must go up. Paper, ink, type, engraving—everything costs more. So that McCALL’S costs nearly twice as much to print as it did a year ago. To you who did not know of this, we give this one more chance to get McCALL’S at the old price. Send cou- pon below on or before March 3lst and you can have McCALL’S for one year for 50c, though it is now 10c a copy on the newsstands. Join the 1,300,000 women every month who turn to McCALL’S for their fashions, for patterns, for economical buying, for fancy needle-work, for good stories — for pleasure, for help, for style. Cornell Classes Use McCall’s To them it is a text-book. To home-loving women it is a house- hold necessity. This is your last Fifty Years of Fashion It is not silks or satins or plumes that make a fashionable woman. It is the one little clever touch of style, of taste. You have the taste. chance to get for 50c a year, all Get the style from McCALL’S. the departments — Correct Social The woman who desires to dress Usage—What Priscilla Learned at well and to save money is. our Boarding School—Words—How to 3 roblem, and before her we Use Them— Home Millinery — Bg new fashion whisper Common-Sense Beauty Talks— from the world’s fashion centers, Paris Fashion Letter— Home in MeCALL’S MAGAZINE—Mc- Dressmaking — Embroidery—Chil- Call’s Fashions, McCall's Em dren’s Page Baby Welfare — broidery, and Mcevwall’s Needle Foods and Food Values—Gardens work—richly illustrated in black —Household Decoration — Parties and white. and colors. A style and Entertainments— Housekeep- authority for 50 years ing Exchange MARCH 3ist, LAST DAY (H.Baz-4-17) This Coupon Must Be Mailed Quickly THE McCALL COMPANY, McCall Building, 236 to 246 West 37th Street, New York, N. Y. Send Me(‘all’s Magazine for one year, at the former low price. I enclose 50c (75¢e Canada, $1.00 foreign). Also send, without further charge, MeCall’s Spring and Summer P oo Catalogue. For 2 years nelose $1.00 (Canada $1.50; Foreign $2.0 NAME ccoccccvecccocccces erececece eee eee reeeeeeeersreeeesesessenes ADDRESS cccccccceccccccccccccccscescocesessocoescesovccese evcccces If you wish also, free, [ ] Fund-Raising Plans for Churches, Schools and Societies, or Name of Nearest McCall Pattern Agent, check these items. (Canadian Branch at 70 Bond Street, Toronto.) After March 31st,1917,you will pay 75 for McCall's one year ( Canadian $1.00; Foreign $1.50) Annive Harper's Bazar, rsary Year April, 1917 That Other Eileen (Continued from page 134) Alistair Gray whom she hated, had stolen for himself a wife—not a real woman. And whose fault was it if that other Eileen, that wife, had gone back into the unreal from whence she came? There was nothing left of her now but these fineries that the real Eileen was wearing, and the expression of wisdom she had noted in the hand mirror. She ran to the cheval glass between the Windows of her room. No, thank God, that look was gone! She was Eileen Arden again, with the wondering eyes—once again a girl— and Victor’s. The wistful voice deep down in her subconscious self that wanted to be heard whispered for a moment, and then that too was gone. “| will never dream of Alistair Gray any more,” she rejoiced. It was all over; she had no more scruples or fears. There was noth- ing to do now but wait till her lover’s slim, erect figure came in sight down the road in the moonlight. And so at nearly the same hour as before he came. She was watching for him. Eileen had chosen a soft, green gown to wear. “He will like this,” she thought, puzzling with the half-memory again. He had liked it, or one like it, long ago. Oh, everything would come back soon! He wasted no words this time when he reached her. “The decision, Eileen?” he said, holding out his arms. He seemed so confident, and he was smiling. a think— I belong to you,’ low voice. Hungrily he enfolded her frail body. “Let us go in,” he said finally. “You will not seem really mine again until you have let me in.” Into another man’s house? She wondered— yet without a word she followed him through the French window. One of the maids was standing in the hall. With a gesture of authority he dismissed her and drew Eileen to a seat beside him on a couch. “Thank Heaven, you have come back to me, little girl!” he said, with his arm close around her. For a moment Eileen rebelled. He was taking everything so absolutely for granted! And she was committing herself to a course of action that she knew was dangerous and disloyal. “Don’t you think that—” It was so difficult to go on, and she faltered and began again. “Don’t you think it is wrong to leave Alistair Gray without seeing him— without telling him of—of—our love—that I never really gave myself to him—that I am yours—and— He caught her to him with a cry almost of terror. “Eileen, dear—Eieen!” “What is it?” she gasped, terrified in turn by the note of fear in his voice. He put her a little way from him, and held her so, with his hands on her shoulders. “Ts it worse than we thought?” he mut- tered to himself. ‘‘Child, who am I?” For a moment the world seemed to be going to pieces around her. “Tsn’t there any you?” she gasped. “Have I been mad and imagined it all—was there no Victor I was going to marry; was there no Alistair Gray who married me? Oh, whoever you are, tell me—tell me what is true!” ‘That is all true,” he said. “There was a Victor you were going to marry—there was an Alistair who married you. But answer— who do you think I am?” He spoke with a eee anxiety, his eyes burning down into 1eTs. “Aren’t—you—Victor?” she stammered. scarcely able to articulate. ““My poor little girl!” he said, drawing her near to him again, “I am your husband. I’m Alistair Gray. Don’t let go of yourself that way, Eileen. Don’t faint—it’s true.” She caught at her throat. “But I took you for—but who was the man in the doorway that day I awakened?’’ she ’ she said, in a The o f Cult implored. “1 saw him— the grey man” He held her tighter. “Good Heavens, Eileen, that was Docto Darrah! But I was close behind him. Didn’t you see me at all?” “T fainted,” she said wonderingly. He touched her hair soothingly. “Poor little woman! Have you beep thinking all this time that Darrah was I? It seems incredible; yet it was perfectly natural after all. But—to have thought me that old lover of yours!” There was a_half-note of vexation in his voice. ‘‘How did you come to saddle me with his name?” Eileen, still in his arms, leaned her head on her husband’s shoulder and thought. “T remembered that I was going to ma him,” she answered slowly. ‘It was all dim and faded. And the love for you in my heart, Alistair, and the picture of you printed on all those years of my life must have been so strong that they fused with the name of the man I thought I loved. I can’t remember that face at all. Do you know what he looked like?”’ “T have seen him,” said Alistair quietly “He had fair hair and blue eyes—rather a saintly type. good boy. I didn’t court you till he’d been ‘married a year, dearest. I didn’t think I was wronging you.” “Oh, don’t be humble, Alistair; it isn’, like you. You see, I’m remembering now a little. Yes; I do remember that face, I think. I’m sorry he wants me again, but”—she laughed lightly—‘he really isn’t entitled to me. I’m glad it was he who kept his promise to stay away, not you. Well, he doesn’t matter now one way or the other—” “There is something else for you to re- member,” he told her presently. But she was not frightened, for he was _ smiling. What else could possibly happen that was not so? Eileen wondered. “Yet there is something,” she thought, with a shade of perplexity knitting her fore- head, “something that I should remember. Something that held me to you,” she said aloud. ‘‘Oh, how wonderful that you should be you!” “Try to think, my dear,” he said, with his eyes on hers. “I want you to remember for yourself. Think. Do you remember your room at, home? Think of the door that opens from it.” “Yes,” she said obediently, “yes; a door— beside the window that opened west—” Her brows knit again in the effort of recollection. “You are remembering,” he said. “I knew it would come of itself, if—if 1 could but have sufficient patience.” “Poor—Alistair!”” she said, and the name seemed “Was it bard?” “Never mind that, dear. Try to remem- ber,” he said again. “The door was on the yp VeSs and when you opened that ““I—am—remembering,” she faltered, her face white and her hands clenching on his, “in the corner is—a—draped thing. We were waiting— Alistair, Alistair, I remember now!” She sprang to her feet, her eyes blazing. “That was why. Where is it? Where is our baby? Is it safe? Is it alive? Alistair!” “Safe—alive—” he said. ‘‘You were de- lirious for five weeks after he came. Then when you woke you did not remember—” She clung to him with terror in her eyes. “Take me back to him, take me to-night! Oh, Alistair, if I had not remembered!”’ “You were bound to remember.” he said “1 knew. familiar and dear now. “My dream love, “Wait for her; “She’ll—be—true— “‘Can you remember singing it to me? “To you?” “Why, yes,”’ he said marveling. “Then it was all you—only you always! Oh. I am true Alistair. Can you forgive me?” the Beautiful (Continued from page 75) Jersey, Chanella cloth, Treco and the various modifications of the useful pongee are im- mensely popular for sports and morning wear. There are two lengths of coat—the long clinging affair that completely covers the sweater dress and the short or finger-length, best liked when the dress is built of contrast- ing materials. For example, a sweater dress just designed for a spring bride has the upper or sweater part, which ends well below the hips, made of fawn-coloured Chanella cloth, and the lower or skirt part of fawn and white- hecked Treco. The box coat, which covers the plain part of the dress, is of the plain material. Quite different is the sweater dress of sand-coloured Jersey having an up- turned hem of scarlet satin and full-length coat of the Jersey lined throughout with the satin. Both the coat and dress cling closely to the figure. The majority of the one-piece frocks are barely confined at the 136 waist with a loose cord or a string belt ot the dress material. The choice of materials in all departments of fashion is much limited; the very popularity of the chemise dress, which after ‘all is said and done is merely a compromise, bespeaks the lack of woolens. Serge is plentiful, to be sure. and masquerades under twenty different names, but the American woman is weary ol the useful stuff and wants something dif- ferent. And in her craving for the new, she turns gladly to the “little dresses” of satin, crépe de Chine, chiffons and the like. This will be a lace season; heavy filet has never been so fashionable, and laces of all kinds were never so beautiful. Lingerie dresses are more lace than fabric, and there is even a chance for the long discarded Irish and Cluny varieties. C ombinations of black and white thread laces for ey ening gowns will be exceedingly smart.

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YVETTE ( Pronounced E-vetr ) For Smart Desserts” When the dessert course is served at your luncheon or dinner—or the refreshment to your afternoon guests —let it be one of the dainty and unique Créme Yvette ices, sherberts, charlcttes or jellies. These violet desserts are exclusive in their taste and color. ‘They may be served as simply or elaborately as you wish. A simple way— WOODLAND SUNDAE by Mr. Albert Jacolot, chef de cuisine of Aldine Club Fill Sundae glass with vanilla icecream. Sprinkle with chopped mixed nuts—add whipped cream and a maraschino cherry. Pour Créme Yvette over all for flavoring. Créme Yvette (pronounced E- VET) is sold at 80c and $1.50 per bottle, at fancy grocers and wine dealers. Book of recipes by well-known chefs sent free, Write for it now. SHEFFIELD COMPANY 54 Seventh Av., New York

You can get this most delightful of soaps at your favorite department store or druggist. And once used, you will realize why for over sixty years women of refinement in every civilized land have made it their all-time choice. 22»White Rose UTI“ Ghyecrins Soap Pure and transparent as choicest materials and skill can make it, No. 4711 White Rose Glycerine Soap gives a skin clear and velvety. Delicately perfumed, its rich, abundant lather makes each day’s use a fresh delight. For the sample cake, send 2c stamp; or for 10¢ in stamps we will send you a package containing a sample cake of No, 4711 White Rose Glycerine Soap, a sample bottle of No. 4711 Bath Salts, and a sample bottle of No. 4711 Eau de Cologne. MULHENS & KROPFF, Dept. 27, 25 West 45th St, New York

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EXPERT ENGLISH ATTENDANTS administer the Ganesh (original) Strapping Muscle Treatment. It is their superb skill, acquired under long and careful training by Mrs. Adair that makes this tapping and strapping method of stimulating the facial tissues so beneficial and impossible of imita- tion. By strengthening and building up the muscles of the face, the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment accomplishes the restoration of a youthful contour, effacing lines, wrinkles and hollows. Single treatment, $2.50, administered only at Mrs. Adair’s Salon. 557 HifthAve. 92 Neve Bent W: 35 ___ 3) —__ a —_—__ ow SOS _ EE Ray: os

(CONTINUED) 13. Ganesh Lily Sulphur Lotion Whether the skin is dark naturally, or tanned by the sun's rays, it can be lightened by the Ganesh Lily Sulphur Lotion, widely used in Europe and America. Apply it freely and often; being the prescription of a well-known doctor, it is harmless, and will improve the skin. Can also be used as a liquid powder; in three shades: Cream, Flesh and White. $2.50 and $1.50 a bottle. 14. Ganesh Brown Spot Lotion Quickly removes the aggravating brown spots or “moth patches,” which are so disfiguring. To be painted on. Bottle, $1.00. 15. Ganesh ‘‘Juno”’ When the neck, bust and shoulders require build- ing up, no ordinary cream _ will suffice. The Ganesh Juno is made especially for this purpose and will be found to satisfactorily increase both size and firmness. Jar, $2.25, $1.25. 16. Ganesh Retardine Invariably successful in reducing fatty tissue. Can be rubbed in at home, and is the most satis- factory treatment, as it obviates the necessity of taking. medicines or adopting violent measures, ar, $1.75. 17. Ganesh Poudre de Perle Fin The powder for night use, if one would be perfectly groomed. _Exquisitely fine—almost im- perceptible; delicately tinted. Just as it comes from Paris. $1.25 a Box. 18. Ganesh Marvelle Eye Drops Give immediate relief to red, inflamed or blood- shot eyes. One drop in each eye will make them white again. Bottle $1.25. 19. Ganesh Anti-Puff Lotion Incomparable for correcting puffiness and bag- giness under the eyes. To be painted or at night. Bottle $1.25.

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The Nestlé Permanent Hair-Wave (Patented in the U. S. A. and all civilized countries) Both these heads were originally Nestlé-waved on Dec. 30th, 1916. Previous photographs of the same treatment were published in the February and March issues. We mean to give the readers an idea of what really can be done with a good permanent wave. We specifically un- dertake to make the straightest or lankiest hair growing on _ the human head naturally wavy. It would not matter how often the hair is thereafter washed with soap and water or with tonics. It must be- have at all times just like naturally wavy hair. Even were we to perma- nently wave any hair every week it would do no harm; but this is not necessary be- cause the result of one treatment is guaranteed to last until the hair has itself grown out. The Nestlé permanent wave has been publicly given since 1905 (London) and is one of the most useful scientific discoveries ever made. Nestlé-waving is done in most European Courts and both our London and New York establishments are specializing only in this work and nothing else. It takes about two hours to wave a head of hair (at our establish- ments) and the treatment is covered by a clear and well defined guarantee. Photograph taken on Feb. 20, 1917 1917 Photograph taken on Feb. 20, Ask for our descriptive booklet. For permanent wav- ing in homes remote from our establishment or licensed pupils our Home Outfit is a per- fect boon to thousands of women. The com- plete outfit is sold at Our Home Outfit $15 and is described and illustrated in our booklet (sent free). More than 2000 of them are distributed all over the United States to the greatest satisfaction The Nestle Home Treatment 6f Sirchasere Individual directions are given with each Home Outfit. The Nestol Treatment for Children If you have a child whose hair is losing its natural curl or one with straight hair Mr. Nestlé’s booklet will prove of great interest to you. It will show you what naturally wavy hair is, how it can be retained and even produced on the child’s head without any mechanical means. Booklet ffee. Apply for our free illustrated and explanatory Booklet. C. NESTLE CoO. 657-9 Fifth Avenue, Corner 52nd Street, New York Telephone Plaza 6541 London, 48 South Molton St. and 43 Dover St., W. Pupils of good education between the ages of twenty and thirty-five are now instructed by Mr. Nestlé in permanent hair waving as a profession. 7 Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 From Paris (Continued rom page 71) to popularize Jersey than any one house, | and, ugly as this fabric is, nothing could dim its success. But now even its archpriestess looks askance at it! At her opening she favoured silk cashmere for day dresses more than any other fabric, and nearly everything she offered was covered with embroidery. Her silhouettes were absolutely straight and, while she advocated the lovely basque- blouses, two examples of which are shown with this article, she also favoured the straight and narrow chemise dress, made however with coat to match. The return of the tunic is apparently tak- ing every one by surprise, which is a bit amusing for the tunic or overskirt—call it what you will!—bobs up every summer in one form or another. The form most liked this year is exceedingly straight and built on coat-lines, and drapery is absolutely taboo. Jenny has perhaps the loveliest of | the tunic models seen at any of the openings. The most fascinating are developed in chiffon | lined with satin, figured foulard, shantung, | unlined malines or chiffon. | are awaiting me there. and in the new silk crépes. Several of these coats are belted in at the waist, while others are curved in just enough to suggest a waist- line. The underdresses of all these models are made with very straight narrow skirts, and the little bodices are quite frankly Em- pire in their tendency, but for all this Jenny exploits them as afternoon or formal day dresses. One particularly fetching model has an underdress of old rose charmeuse bound at the edge of the skirt with silver braid. The self-coloured chiffon tunic, embroidered with tiny forget-me-nots in natural colours, is also bound with the braid, and a cord with tassels of silver beads takes the place of a girdle. The question of décolletté is barely con- sidered over here, necks being cut out ever so slightly to accord with governmental dictates. Doucet, Callot and Worth are solving the problem. for the American woman by cutting all evening corsages very low and round in back and front. As for sleeves, we have them and we have them not. While the sleeveless bodice is still seen, the tiny kimono sleeve of flesh-coloured chiffon and the very short set-in sleeve heavily sequinned are de- cidedly atop the wave. Some of Doucet’s loveliest dinner gowns have long sleeves of i One model that has taken tremendously with the French mondaine who slips off to Monte Carlo for a rest has full sleeves of flesh-coloured malines gathered at the wrist into a narrow band of flame-coloured _ velvet. Incidentally the gown is of flesh-coloured satin embroidered with old gold and flame-coloured beads, and its lines are strangely suggestive of the straight classic lines of eighteen hundred and thirteen and fourteen. En passant, although the mondaines approve many of the styles Mary Garden mentioned in this article, they do not order them, or if they do, the couturier is warned to make them up in black and to fill in the necks, To look ahead and backward at the same time, no one will be at all surprised if the fashions of one hundred years ago are re- vived during the late spring and summer, The present effort to shorten the upper part of the gown and the consequent lengthening and straightening of the skirt indicate a re- turn to the gowns of that period. The Jenny coat-tunics, previously described, were actu- ally worn in eighteen-twelve, made of course of stout serviceable silk, not diaphanous chiffon. As usual waist-lines are taking a great deal of attention; the Frenchwomen like the shortened effect, for it is becoming to them, but American women do not like it, especially for street costumes. In all tailored suits designed for America the natural waist-line is being emphasized. Even the long line, so popular in one-piece dresses, is taboo for the tailleur. There is a certain trimness, an un- compromising definiteness of outline, as it were, to the American woman’s figure that demands the rigidity of the normal waist- line. There is no doubt therefore that the normally placed girdle, rather stiff in its effect, will speedily replace the present vague and indefinite string belt. Bulloz, Bernard and Beer are featuring this girdle in many gowns that belong in the ceremonious class. A Bulloz gown that pleases every one who sees it is developed in white shantung, and is well worth describing because of its charm- ing simplicity. The skirt, although straight and narrow, is accordion plaited, and on each side a panel or plastron is embroidered in gold thread—this embroidery is about ten inches at the hem narrowing to a point above the knee. And this is all there is to the skirt. The bodice is also plaited, a three-inch band of the embroidery outlines the oval neck in front and back and extends down the entire length of the long narrow sleeve. The normal waist-line is marked by a folded girdle of the embroidered shantung. Shoulder-capes may come, but at the moment they are sketchily rather than plainly displayed. Premet, whose day dresses are so successful, adds a drop collar to a trotteur of grey serge, thus hinting that capes perhaps will follow. This model is shown on page sixty-nine, and an excellent example it is of Premet’s best mode. The tassel ca the end of the collar is a happy thought of a couturier who is always strong on details. Premet, Lelong and Buzenet are featuring the “tucked up” skirt, as one frequently hears the Turkish skirt designated. All such models of course, whether of silk chiffon or cotton, are lined and usually with silk or mull to match the colour of the robe. Tells Why (Continued from page 54) French hospitals. All this interest in me and my work fills me with pride; not pride in myself personally or my voice, but pride in the fact that I am of some service to my fellow beings, that I can take people out of themselves even for an hour. That is one of the big things of life. Is it any wonder I am fearful lest I fail to fulfil expectations? Underlying these reasons there is yet another—the very modernity of the cinema intrigues me. All my professional life I have stood for the modern in music and art. It is natural therefore that I should become a part of the most modern mechanism of the drama. A few years ago, when flying was in its experimental stage, I simply had to make an ascent with Wilbur Wright; I had to know what flying meant. I recall Debussy saying at the time that I was like a child in my eagerness to explore everything new, which by the way, was why he gave me “Louise” to create. I wonder what he will say when he hears where my inquisitive spirit is now leading me! Debussy, being the leader of the French school of modern opera, hates the movies as he does a tune. By the time this little article is printed I shall have returned to Paris. Engagements I have promised to sing to every wounded soldier in Paris. This means at least three matinées a week, and of course I shall resume my weekly outings with the return of spring. Every Thursday I hire Where ECAUSE of the various industries cre- B ated by the war, the working classes in England have never been so well off as they are now. Two women in a Mid- land town were overheard discussing their | affluence; one was boasting of the amount 138 ‘“*Wishes’’ a car on one of the funicular railways and take seventy- five crippled poilus up the mountain. We have wonderful times on these picnics; many of the poor boys are from the low countries and have never before seen a mountain. On fine clear days we can see Mont Blanc. These poilus are so plucky; they are seldom sad. We who look at them are saddened; our hearts throb with pity, but the soldiers smile and tell funny stories. I recall a little incident that happened at my last matinée before I left Paris to come home. Two officers, one lacking a right arm and the other a left, were seated in President Poin- caré’s box—the President himself has not attended the theatre or opera since France was invaded, but his box is always at the disposal of soldiers on sick leave. On the afternoon mentioned I sang a simple folk- song familiar to every French lad. As I finished the two soldiers smiled and applauded, each clapping his one hand against the hand of the other. And I could give them no en- core, my throat was so choked with emotion. For the sake of the poilu I wish that my films could begin at once; then the pictures might help to amuse them during the re- mainder of the war. It delights me, however, to think that in the future these brave men to whom I have given some entertainment may possibly be able to see me again in their remote home villages and towns. It is indeed hard to have to wait until October! ‘*Horses’ Are she had saved and finished by asking, “And what do you do with your munition money?’ “Oh,” replied her companion, “we eats more and we drinks more, and I buys every- thing I see.”

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ae SSS PO OHM HD @ Girl’s Frock—Skirt of imported crepe in colored stripes; blouse of white mullcord. Sizes, 6 to 14. Price, $7. DePinna Productions for Spring and Summer for Young Men, Boys, Girls and Misses are now being shown in their complete assort- ments, ready for service or made to measure. They have been assem- bled with unusual care and offer most attractive selections. The fabrics are of our own importation, many of them specially woven to meet the demands of this house. Models are of De Pinna creation, or adapted from those of leading European specialists in young people’s apparel. Complete showing, ready- for service Spring and Sum- mer sport clothes, closely adhering to the best English styles, for golfing, boating, tennis and general outing wear. De Pinna representatives every season visit the principal cities of the country. Send your name and address and you will be informed of the next visit to your city, or the city where you do your shopping. DePinna Exclusive Outfitters to Young People Fifth Ave., at Fiftieth St., NewYork Another Nervous Breakdown ? HAT is it? Just tired out or just broken down? If sleep alone no longer suffices to allay the tension of nerves that are over- wrought and distracted, a complete col- lapse may not be far off. Physicians will frankly tell you that medicines are of no avail—that rest and nutrition are the only salvation. And asa scientific means of furthering nutrition they often use Sanatogen— in itself concentrated nutrition which conveys to the starved centers exactly the food that is needed, and especially organic phosphorus, “in such a form,” as Dr. Saleeby says, “that the nerves can actuaily take hold of it.” Several weeks’ regular use of Sana- togen has brought to thousands and thousands of nervous sufferers new vigor, fresh vitality and sustaining en- durance—with better sleep and better digestion. Free Trial Offer a re Set one “ ~ ie saeco al ana thousands of well-known people who a 25-gram Trial Package have endorsed Sanatogen, writes: of Sanatogen, also Richard Le Gallienne’s booklet, “The Art of Living,” “Sanatogen undoubtedly restores sleep, Pine ea TR oe invigorates the nerves and braces the pa- kindly “help ane ine tient to health. I have watched its effect other’ aids for better on people whose nervous systems have — ba ag tans sa been entirely undermined and I have Place, New York. proved Sanstogen to be most valuable.” Won’t you give Sanatogen a chance to help your nerves? Sanatogen is sold by good druggists everywhere in three sizes, $1.00 up. Awarded Crond Prize at the Internotional Congress of Medicine, London, 1913. anatoge Endorsed by over 21,000 Physicians wun UTI THE CHILDREN’S SHOP d 8 East 46th Street New York Near Fifth Avenue la The SPRING Mode ate wy RAGLAN (xa COAT /)\Aet\ for BOYS A YAY or GIRLS Yt vw Of Goveet cloth, j in t i & - (rr ad | eelere. wil i « \ Part silk lined, * combination high \ ——~ and low collar. Sizes u to 5 years. SPECIAL: $10.50 PANAMA HAT Grosgrain Ribbon Band $5.25 BOYS’ or GIRLS’ RAINCOAT In Leather Guaranteed Rainproof Model as above—part SILK Lined, $14.50 LEATHER HAT to Match $5.00 The Spring Catalog of Josef Apparel forwarded on request | Arrived: TRAVELING NURSERY CHAIR In white en- amelled reed, collaps- ible back sup- port. $5.25 With Dresden Raised Roses: 50¢ Additional The Josef Catalog of mnt = -NNursery Furniture Free — fw Brodsky IMPORTER, Latest creations of this Season’s most authentic Styles in SUITS—GOWNS—WAISTS COATS—WRAPS— HATS Also a variety of exclusive SUMMER FUR NOVELTIES. 20 WEST 39TH STREET NEAR FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK Solicited —> ] as—— 139 reamed Chicken ala King A Treat for Gourmet, Epi- cure and Just Plain Folks —prepared by our chef from the Paris Ritz, making generous use of the finest fresh farm poultry, selected mushrooms and dainty garnishings, all combined in a delicious cream dressing. Only 25c. and 50c. at all fine grocers. Or send us $1.45 or $2.85 for % dos. respective sizes, delivery prepaid if you mention ay eel n Ca- a, 35c. an % $2.00 and $3.75, % dos. Write, mention- ing r, for book- let,“*How and When,” suggesting 41 ways to serve. Purity Cross, Inc, Model Kitchen, Route2-J Orange, M. J. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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The Cult of Beauty Its Care for Dainty Details ; Ee “The Cult of Beauty, with its delicate 1 daily observance, its care for dainty de- =| tails, does a woman good; it leads her to delicacies of mind, and : so the pure complexion soon goes much deeper than the skin.” | ICTURE Milady in her dainty boudoir of rose and Wis for Cur Unemnel gold, in her delicate daily care of nourishing and pro- ha tecting her fair complexion. St l B k fe It must indeed lead to delicacies of mind— y e oO C Mme. Rubinstein has aptly expressed herself. Mme. which brings you the best styles ; Soganar ger =f : anal ches alia haar Rubinstein is in a position to know. It is she who has ES cll latectsiaaili aaa made such an art of the Culture of Beauty abroad. It is ae ee no uncommon sight in the vicinity of Mayfair, London new Georgette model, with smart or Rue St. Honoré, Paris to see the limousines of the most ee eee ee ee 2 distinguished houses in Europe before Mme. Rubinstein’s 1 5 whe Papen age 3 a - a ° , . . . \ Saqually § gooc oO dress or spor Maison de Beaute Valaze, while their lovely mistresses F wear. Of Crepe de Chine; pleated, ~ ame : ‘ - : = an E belted coat; large patch pockets; a pay tribute to her wondrous Beauty Cult. ; ceuiicee ‘ack Gimmes ame ar soutache braid. All the desirable bey FOR MME. RUBINSTEIN HAS ACHIEVED IN | Spring shades. $25.00. sit st: BEAUTY CULTURE THE SEEMINGLY IMPOSSIBLE ’ fe eer _ : | F.PY. ©’ Connor Co. fo Through stimulating and nourishing the skin texture she obliter- | 157 Tremont Street, ag ates lines and deep wrinkles, corrects dryness, greasiness, blotchi- Boston. Mas. pte ness or muddiness of the skin. She removes blackheads, coarse in open pores, double chin—and clarifies and improves the skin’s du Salen TTT an She has merited equal success in protecting the already lovely ou complexion, and keeping it permanently so. es Mme. Rubinstein’s famed advice is available to you. A short lz ia course of treatments will accomplish unbelievable results. Or, ee nn L i ms if your skin is already free from defects a lesson treatment will yo enable you, with delicate daily observance—to keep it so. LaGoutte-a-Goutte a rhe following list of preparations are for those who are un- Color “ to able to visit her personally. Her advice and instruction as_ to Manvelisis Faded ‘or GRAY HAIR their use enables you to take dainty care of your complexion , 14 at home. i ~~ No matter how hs wine gray, faded, VALAZE BEAUTIFYING SKIN FOOD streaked or life- less it may be, only one applica- tion of LaGoutte- a-Goutte will re- Restores, stimulates and preserves the skin, wards off wrinkles, looseness and flabbiness. It promotes the renewal of skin-cells, and thus stands for skin-health and youthfulness. VALAZE clears the skin of tan, freckles and sallowness, and thus makes the complexion fine and faultless. $1.00, $2.00 and $6.00 a jar. Made store oo — . i i Straw Hats of any shade o If Your Face Discolors in Cold Weather : every description black, brown, drab or red. LaGoutte-a- VALAZE OUTDOOR BALM. Checks th tenders ofthe sgt I || Femedereecs; New || Sate sisimlee, dee not dhcor te ing the skin smooth and soft. Unequalled as an anti-wrinkle prepara- equal to NEW scalp, makes a lovely, rich, lasting color that tion, also excellent as a foundation for powder. Price, $1.50, does not fade or rub off on the pillow. Makes $3.00 and $5.00 a jar. ‘ e Ses . ae * ’ r the hair soft and glossy, with a natural VALASS CLACEMEAD AND GFEN PORE PASTE Straw Hats beautifully colores, full-of-life pels ‘and the hair can Refines coarse skin texture, removes greasiness, blackheads, and re- bleached and REMADE into be washed as usual. IT REQUIRES ONLY duces enlarge _ Tse acide . soap hes © o Fi , as as suai. a ee a ee ee ee this season’s correct shapes. || ONEAPPLICATION and NOAFTER SHAM- To Consolidate Loose and Flabby Tissue Come in and try on our New sed a — “sr VALAZE ROMAN JELLY. This is a new astringent balm which consoli- Paris Models or send us clipping he ae f your h = Any one of dates and makes firm, loose and flabby tissue. The tightening and of hat you desire and we will the privacy Of you Sages less smoothing out of the skin about the mouth and eyes and under the advise you. 32 shades you wish is given from the chin which it accomplishes is really wonderful. Price, $1.50 and $ ONE package. Price, $1.25, postpaid. $3.00 a bottle. > - FOR DOUBLE CHIN Select the one most becoming and Order direct, or, if you’d first like to see 7, VALAZE REDUCING JELLY (price, $1.50 and $3.00) also the we'll remake your worn, discard- how well it will appear on your hair, VALAZE REDUCING SOAP (price $1.25 a cake) are the two most ed hat into an actual counterpart d a‘: k , effective preparations to remove a double chin as well as superfluous in finish, freshness and style. Send me a Little Loc of Your Hair —-I’ll Color It Without Charge fat, and to restore beauty of line to face and throat. VALAZE COMPLEXION POWDER Women's and Men's Penames : cleaned and reblocked Cut close to head and mention shade desired. In five tints, flesh, rose, cream, rachel and white, for greasy, moist _It in the City, call and Vil apply color myself, skins, also normal skins. NOVENA POUDRE, in five tints, for No charge for examination or advice. 29 years dry skins. Price, $1.00, $2.50 and $4.50 a box. experience. L. Pierre Valligny Dept. B-21 14 E. 44th St., New York LUTON ES O>rcortsea A copy of Madame Rubinstein’s booklet, “Beauty in the Making,” will be sen. on receipt of 2c stamp to cover postage. MME. HELENA RUBINSTEIN Easter Feather Novelties | . L) Gast 4)" Street, NY. sik eater oan FACE POWDER Ostrich Fans restored to their IN GREEN POSS ONLY PARIS LONDON, W. original beauty and daintiness. Sa Paradise Feathers, Aigrettes . ° —_ 255 Rue St.Honoré 24 Grafton Street and Gouras reconstructed. Makes the Complexion Beautiful If you are a resident in any of the cities mentioned below Mme. Rubin- BLEACHING. CLEANSING. DYEING nei stein refers you to her representatives there for any of her preparations: AND CURLING ARE SPECIALTIES IN OFT AND former J tw d PD eet WHICH METHOT EXCELS back if not entirely pleased. icago: Mile. Lola Beekman, 30 Michigan Avenue —- d harmless. Adheres until San Francisco: Miss Ida Martin, 177 Post St. and Grant Ave. Mail orders promptly attended to Meine & - = rt: " aan and return Philadelphia: Mme. Rose Schachman, 2536 W. Somerset St. H METHOT —_ of. "A milton delighted users prove its New Orleans: Mrs. C. V. Butler, 8017 Zimple St. | ° — i tints: Flesh. Pink, Brunette, White, | 29 West 34th Street 50c. by toilet counters or mail. Dept. B. N York Cit ‘ — en ee ee National Toilet Company, Paris, Tenn., U.S.A. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Basar, April, 1917 140

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a’, Pd Sam Lh tAthds hae, — AYEALNBBAS BEI“! o S62, ts) — ) + eel he “

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Real Fleewure iE | Uap \ J | - “ Ry on, ; 2 during sleep, strengthens and . . 2 _ 7 supports the flabby chin muscles Spencer fe id and restores them to their natural RE UVE ‘ Soseagipiag eliminating all disfiguring ~ Ines. jU wg. ont off Corsets = ™ wae _ ; , e a é a A Special Design for Each Customer s EMININE Artifice finds its alluring comple- | ayaa Nmap aliacaaleaaal Spencer Designing Service (awarded “9 ment in the Perfect Talcum of the Boudoir— One month’s wear will reduce your Gold Medal at Panama-Pacific Expo- double chin and stop mouth breath- sition) creates a corset especially de- 2 9 ing hab signed for your figure, bringing out 4 A light, durable, washable ap its best lines and skillfully correcting : bad Silence. Gomes in ares, medium. any that are undesirable. There is | = , small and children’s sizes no extra charge for this individual de- | Write, giving your dealer’s signing service. : CORYLOPSIS T ALC P name, for our interesting leaflet, Your Spencer gives you advance ? OF JAPAN ‘ “Health and Facial Beauty,’

style, because it is especially designed i ; or send $4 for Silk Supporter, for you in accorda a with to-day’s , But the artifice of chemistry has never fathomed the baffling 5. $3.00 for Meoh. $2.50 for Linen mode—not that of three or six months secret of the fragrance of the original Corylopsis—BABCOCK’S. : or 91.00 tor Cotton. ago. It will accomplish an amazing : Nor has it ever achieved the miracle of its thistledown softness 2 a of .. a —“o ‘ and delicate fineness. 7 —_ | CORA M. DAVIS and will immediately relieve chronic : : ‘ indigestion, constipation, or backache 10¢ brings you sample pecke ages of Babcock's Coryl opsis 30E. 42nd St., Dept. Ht, New York City due to weakened abdominal muscles. of Japan Talcum, Face Powaer and Extract, Babcock's , Dealers 7 Furthermore, your Spencer is guar- ca Cut Roses” and “Violet Elice’” Talcums. . | Drua Stores, Beauty Parlors. anteed to hold its shape until worn . y | Specialty Stores will find the out; and thus your new suit or gown 4 A. P. Babcock Co., 115 West 14th Street, New York Davis Chin Supporter a profit- able seller. Write for whole- tai n itil dis- will retain its smart lines until dis cae usicen, carded. Made in both front and back- lace styles. Look in your telephone book for your local Spencer corsetiere. Write us if you cannot locate our represen tative. Send for booklet. THE BERGER BROS. CO. | = — 145 Derby Ave. New Haven, Conn. how LANE ed, . fie POISE-—| BRYANT alernity ll POWER—PERSONALITY omin g

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esti Do you wish to be an at- tte- tractive personality? Do OrTrse Ss Mother re- you wish to possess | 7 r to “Charm”? —— Train _your | f Mind to think. Train It gives wonderfu. support to back and abdomen z 0 your Voice to respond to J | perfect freedom through diaphragm—with a straight, | o-a- your Gout... Train your | long waisted effect that makes the change impercept- f the Spirit to | ible—it assures the health of the infant. Should be that oka vane adopted early. Ample outlets. Price, $3.85 kes Being in Order today, giving present waist measure. We pre- ral poise. pay all charges — guarantee satisfaction or refund ’ money. can I shall be glad to tell you of my course in Self Expression if you Write Dept. H-8, New York, for complete Book of Fashions for maternity, showing Dresses, Coats, Suits, Skirts and Baby needs.

few will write me to- i - day. Lane Bryant ' of MARY PHELPS (the world’s greatest maternity house) i the = 1800 Mt. Hope Av. 25 West 38th St., NEW YORK i uid. LO Bel, DETROIT CHICAGO see Fawava ° 2nd F1., } 5 cr ner Arcade 9th FI1., Stevens Bldg. Ne. 1000~A Val 255 Woodward Ave. 17 N. State Street °. pure DALSIMER SHOES, = | aa Irish _ handkerchief ‘ } re) L J = na aca asia linen ip all Re Bits % made with a deep co - e . Catalog FREE Upon Request on, lar but arranged so as s N_addition_to bs full tine of Fag tcr to be w orn either high or P red. 9 Perfect Fitting Shoes for weap low neck. It is beauti- { self, ey Wome on, Men and Children, N - fully hemstitched on = & in all sizes and widths, this evius | front, collar and cuffs & catalog contains a helpful article for © ® and trimmed with pearl buttons. A kc B, ag Ry ape of the Feet,” by Lean Novelties: ® blouse that is serviceable for the home — % ' me ieee Dei or for sport’s wear. An_un- r 5

Have you a Dog or Cat 2 usual value. The in your home? 2 Here is a most attrac- tive, decorative food or drinking dish; always os sak in place and not easily upset or broken, Comes NURSES BO AA TOF . occ ccs ose 7 extra. M i Satiaty you you oney

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in cat and dogs of sev- 4 DALSIMER & SONS eral breeds in natural SHIRT-WAISTS 1218 Marbet St. » Phila. colors. Figures about : PERFECT IN EVERY DETAIL 7; C 5 $3 — high. Price, § Royal shirtwaists are guaranteed as to 5a av Ne a ipped igarette in # materials, workmanship and fit; su- | — the Vanity Box — Brighten your windows with Window Shade Pulls— perbly tailored and unmatched values. o Attractive, practical, useful, in considerabk On sale at all good shops and depart- ] H | variety ¢. ae + gg Memes ment stores. gh meng aoe od —- . MIDDIES, MAIDS’ : for all seasons and occasfons, Ask for * a ALKIADIS re ak | —, hs? ~— = URS ES’ UN IFORMS oT TE TER PAUL & SON 30 East 42nd S' New York City name of nearest dealer. i ° Third and Brown Pa _ 139 No. Pearl St. _ Buffalo, N. Y. ho i

Fiftieth Anniversary Year 141 Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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| i Five Correct | \ For Special \ occasions with your || hair piled high, no stray locks or sagging coils will spoil your appearance—if you insist on HUMP Hair Pins. You can make the most of your great- est personal charm. You can follow the new modes with the utmost comfort. | HUMP | Hair Pins stay in place and hold your hair in place—and with the fewest hair pins. And they're so sim- ple. Easy to put in—easy to take out. Smooth as satin—they can’t break or tangle or harm your hair. They're dainty, flexible, light weight — extra _ strong. And most economical, because you don’t lose them. Magic Invisibles. Invisible HUMP Hair Pins are indispensable for “short ends” for waves over forehead and ears—to fasten nets and veils. Nothing equals these little wonder pins. 5c—10c Everywhere. If your dealer hasn't all sizes, send his name and 10c postage | for our Complete Assortment Package. (Orders received from the United States only.) HUMP HAIR PIN MFG. CO. | CHICAGO U. &. A. —— Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Basar, April, 1917 The Rherry Blossom At All Good Shops Made in U.S.A An rresistible new creation which adds attractiveness and style to any woman $s ap- pearance. Whute for Style Book “ Veils by Van Raalte.” Address Dept. D. | ar ae Ae A i e-- oe Fifth Ave. at 16th St., New York City Look for this little 7 ticket INJOY the feeling of looking your best— not just in the dewy K. ps freshness of the morn- ing, but all through the Bis. yp hours of shopping, busi- 25¢ (35¢c in Cana- ness or pleasure. The da) for a com- satiny smoothness and plete Lazell rich glow of the perfect Fae od Box, con- complexion are in this ios olen aa me attractive jar, easily powder, face applied at any time or powder anda place because Creme miniature jar of de Meridor is the orig- Créme de inal greaseless cream. Meridor. 4 Dept. K-3, Newburgh- Yo) on-the-Hudson, N. Y, 3 Canadian Office: PERFUMER 53 —_— LS. anomie, Philadelphia Walrad att Centrally located Distinctive service Excellent cuisine Room With bath, $2up RA Ritchie aa) jj ; Al 9 ill MT Julian Eltinge, foremost im- personator of beautiful women, finds El Rado invalu- able in his professional work. He freely recommends it as the quickest, simplest, and safest way to remove hair from the face, neck or arms. Prominent actresses regard El Rado as really necessary for their dressing tables and travel- ing kits. Clean, hairfree underarms of babylike smooth- ness can be attained only through the use of El Rado, a sanitary lotion easily applied with a piece of absorbent cotton. Entirely harmless. Ask for CRe89 at any toilet goods counter. Two sizes, 50c and $1.00. Money-back guarantee. If you prefer, we will fill your order by mail if you write enclosing stamps or coin. PILGRIM MFG. CO., 12 E. 28th St., N.Y. Canadian Address, 312 St. Urbain. Montreal , a — Soe ee | ms «|| Cdr

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S This becoming model is well- tailored of Dix Quality Black Cotton Alpaca, Complete with collar and cuffs. Allseams are double stitched; well shaped, grace- ful hanging skirt. Sizes 34 to 46 Sold by the Best Department Stores in Nearly Every City Your copy of our Maid’s Uniform Booklet ““M” will be sent you upon request. It shows many pleasing models that you will want to see. Send for it now! Also ask for our House Dress Book- let “K” and the name of your nearest dealer, Henry A. Dix & Sons Co. DIX BUILDING NEW YORK CITY Look for Jt guar- “ie lalla DIX-MAKE) #5" Labet genuine FACE POWDER Oe Luxe An Kouisite Delicacy Lifessing Divine Fragrance ’ AZUREA ts proférred by taclion 7 21) , fas to ow eas WED + A generous Kample f ALUREA \ Y - Dachel Yeweer will be sent upon rece pl f 10¢ i ; - ~ “we 9 erfume. Jace Sewocrand | ‘ Oas Baez | @ SOLE AGENT FOR US. & CANADA pert C 24 £22095". % NEW YORK City y. L.T. PIVER PARIS (France) * « fer/Eect \hampoo fr lo d and Tu bucy i SS — A Trde th Ps | cceptuates the me d gold tints. Preveyts dark i - i egies Peabo EEL fae ‘° ab” or a Not a dye or bleach . ~ ONG DOLLAR, PREPAID. RIGINAL TOILET PREPARATIONS 2224 Ma ison Square. blole mB Avenue, Rae os In The Spring” filth k Smart Jersey Sport Dress. Coat effect of emer- ald green jersey; skirt of emerald green and black plaid; large mother-of-pearl buckle. Also in gold, blue or white. @® All $39.50. sizes. 9 @O8O8e How do ou do without T last—a Snap Fastener of superior merit, one that fulfils every Fastener requirement,—holds SNAP FASTENERS When You Order Cold Cream You should be very careful to get the right kind “The Kind That Keeps’—for your good appearance depends as much on your skin and complexion as on the clothes you wear. Modern skin hygiene requires the regular use of a good cleansing emollient cream—a cold cream—one that meets the natural and constant needs of the human skin, When you order cold cream, tell your dealer you want Daggett & Ramsdeil’s Perfect Cold Cream “The Kind That Keeps” For more than twenty-five years it has ministered to the daily toilet needs of American women. It has promoted wo- manly attractiveness and added to the beauty and happiness of thousands. To use it daily is to cultivate skin health; to encourage, develop, and protect that greatest of charms—a perfect complexion. ry shopping, motoring, golfing, any out-door activity or a long day about the house, refresh your skin with D. & R. Perfect Cold Cream. Keeps fingers soft and smooth for sewing, embroidery, and fancy work. Tubes, 50c., 25¢., 10c Jars, 35c., $1.50. TWO SAMPLES FREE if you send your name and address. One of D. & R. Perfect Cold Cream, that you may try before you buy. One of D. & R. Poudre Amourette, a new and exquisite face powder with a charm all its own—a worthy companion of Perfect Cold Cream. 50c., 85c., Address Department M DAGGETT & RAMSDELL New York “Add to the Charm of Your Smile” vr DISCOLORED TEETH MADE PEARLY WHITE by using Peek’s Tooth Alba (applied with toothbrush but not a tooth powder or enamel). Removes all discoloration leaving teeth white and pearly. For sale at all leading druggists including: ., Montreal fey Drug Co., Pittsburgh td., Toronto iow Drug Co., Cincinnati Or send us 50c today for a bottle. Guaranteed by PEEK DRUG SPECIALTY COMPANY (Established 20 Years) 143 Chambers Street New York City securely when it should, and rel easily when necessary. Sew on Teneo Fasteners and your garments will stay put and hold their shape and style. When you feel the click of the spring you know the Teneo is locked and won't part until you want it to. Teneo Fasteners have been adopted by leading Modistes and leading makers of women’s Ready- to-Wear apparel. When next you buy Snap Fasteners insist on Teneo and refuse substitutes. (Look for Teneo on the card). All Sizes—(black or white). If not at your dealer’s, send 10c for card of 12. (Mention size and color.) The TENEO Co., Inc. 20 WEST 22nd St., NEW YORK 143 | LASHES AND BROWS | SSeeeosd Are Your Hands Older Than Your Face? SRO : SOX PATE GRISE —_— aa! a “The Friend of LOWELL, MASS. Middle-age A STIMULATING POMADE FOR AGING HANDS. Postpaid $2.00 Dept. A. Booklet YOU CAN HAVE BEAUTIFUL (just like mine). Eye-Brow-Ine a food for the Lashes and Brows surein results—absolutely harm- less. Improves your looks ever so Don’t be misled by substi. YJ Eve-Brow-Ine is highly ree- ommended by its many users. Mailed “4 in plain sealed cover on receipt of price 25e and 2c postage. Extra strength— “™ 50c and 4c postage. REES MFG. CO. 968 Columbus Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917

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iene rat " “ p " i AT oan ae CAM “Boon to Both | § wee CNN ALN LIOR ern Serving Society

J In Every City TY | Discriminating women will no y= toler- ate open pores, blackheads, deep lines and defective contours, wrinkles and puffiness around the eyes. Elizabeth Arden’s meth- ‘ : ods, based on an experience international “4 F in scope, together with those pure vege- . .? y table creams, oils and lotions (the Arden i . Venetian Preparations) which never fail to if | TE genuine economy of | cleanse, tone and nourish an unhealthy : BASSINET, this article divides hon- | skin and its foundation of flaccid tissues, | CRIB and nee we Be eo oe ee the a treatment i PLAY- PEN utility. aithful guardian which society now insists po! i } —for Peabo of baby’s content, health, It has been necessary to again double the i \ crib alone and — — he’s —_— floor apes oceupie’ by pe Arden ~—_ _—. i l or at play, indoors or out. vice, and to enlarge the corps of hig i ive di animals, insects, P j —rceggl | a ge age gf pen en She Sterilized Strong, touch him. And how it does } clients in every city. i paces + aerate a If you have never utilized this great and i Sate O8-G0PS, SRG Berves. TOU growing service, write out an accurate de- i Screened must know about our scription of your skin and complexion, its condition, faults, etc. Elizabeth i 1 — 10-Day Tria! Offer Arden will then write you, explaining the Arden Way of treating just such i The Finest Quality —* Write for free booklet and blemishes as yours. This consultation by mail is without charge. i Lambs’ Wool anywhere trial offer, and know all about i Set i this Koop's wonderful worth. ‘cai VENETIAN ARDENA SKIN-TONIC In Individual Envelopes | mt Vrite NOW | imparts a brilliancy and smoothness to the skin. It checks flabbiness and replaces sal- i ; = pe a E. M. TRIMBLE MFG. CO lowness with even whiteness. Three sizes, i5e, "$1.50 50, $3.00. wa “ j 7 ise 28 — a pasha 10 Ambrose St., Rochester, N.Y. VENETIAN SPECIAL ASTRINGENT he a E Distilled from rare, imported herbs; attacks the loose, relaxed tissues of an aging skin, —

. C0. to, Ont. i ent —— 3 and springs. Rrsctiere—rnges serosal } and restores the firmness, smoothness and youthful elasticity. Bottle $3. or will be sent direct on Look for Lamb’s Fa: | | receipt of price and 3c — 2 tt : 1 VENETIAN ADONA CREAM | Gzerd to dover postage. PateleygnalHygienel to

—— > fat Pp | ennmiies Pre be used to increase the size and beauty of ; nec bust and shoulders, ars, 25, $2, i MAURICE LEVY, . Aeon 38th Street, New York Cit VENETIAN LILLE LOTION i Ymporter us Creme Simon and ; S m a rt oO wn Ss A harmless liquid powder of beneficial aseptic qualities. Gives a particularly beautiful i iete Fp ya Toilet Products finish to face, ueck and arms for evening. In flesh, cream, rachel and white. $1, $2. H \ . J | AT LOW PRICES VENETIAN PORE CREAM —— } A thick white paste for the woman who is afflicted with large, coarse pores about the i VERONINE . N nose and mouth. Pore Cream closes the unsightly pores and refines the skin. Jar, $1.00. AES TOF Dancing as a Fine Art SONIA Every woman can make her own : Iiipertal Ballet tought by th SEROVA LV hie Recta 1 f ly the : Mail orders filled. Write for “‘The Quest of the Beautiful’. Academy of e ae chic gowns at the cost of only the E i arte Vestoff ' jpseinn materials with j The incomparable Arden Muscle-Strapping Treatment is | | — — ane t-Sesova Sine \ : administered only at the Arden Salons D’Oro i oidehaisisi | = Ladies residing in the vicinities of Boston and Washington are reminded of i Whether it be 7 | WC ul. OlT72 the Arden Salons D’Oro, maintained in these cities for their convenience. i fiature Bano- akg | ny - i off have pub- — The Pneumatic DressForm i “prt Da Mand lished two i this the school books which ; to render you readily give Pneu Form repro- duces every curve and Salon D’Oro, 673 Fifth Avenue, New York ue base tics Washington, D. C., 1147 Connecticut Ave. serves entire family. ]//| Boston, Mass., 192 Boylston Street Write at once for | | FREE booklet, “ My Exact Figure.” — : : = . Call and a ae f t \\SS. Braytey tre f Pneu I stration o neu form G Oo Ww N Ss and inquire about our | 25 East 48th Street, New York City classes in dress de- signing, cutting, making and fit- as yp ee 7670 Murray Hill Select any gown in this issue of Harper's Bazar and let &- 7 ay ‘ me make you an estimate. You will find excellent exe- . cution to the most minute details. Fit and satisfaction The Pneumatic Dress Form Co. is assured each customer. On your initial order we will 561 Fifth Ave., New York City make a most conservative estimate. Your own original ideas carried out carefully. Mail orders promptly executed. most proficient you @ grasp of in either art. either Nature Authorities in- Fj | Dancing or the struct you. 3s Send f 0 F treo Price, 35.00 cr 5 ge ne I per volume

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yrite, ’phone or call the Twenty- Six East Forty-Sixth St. (opp. a The Ritz) Tel. 2399 Vanderbilt New York City When the Maid’s Away— you can use them, too, with pleasure and ease—the always satisfactory— | WEST ELECTRIC HAIR CURLERS

ADJUSTS TO YOUR SKIRT LENGTH

_

They require no heat and a few minutes’ time suffices to insure a beautiful wave to your hair. Far superior to kid or others—they are electrified, giving strength to the hair. CARD OF 5—25c. CARD OF 2—Itc. lf your Dealer omnes supply you send us coin or stamps and his nam WEST ELECTRIC HAIR CURLER © 153 Columbia Ave.. SRE oh, Pa.

Summer Shop at Lenox, Mass. Every Auction Player Needs | | Milton C. Work’s New Book| | — aa EASTER GIFT. BOXES These beautifully painted round and square-cornered boxes filled with Containing the GENESEO JAM KITCHEN Soh oe Laws of 1917 Square-cornered Box containing twelve 5-oz. glasses of Jellies and havens $4 50 Rentaine tt p Carriage prepaid east of the Mississippi River. , ‘'% remade tapes anid ie. containing ide x dasses + derlie every decla- Jellies and Jams and a Crystallized Grape Fruit. conan pre- ration, and a sys- tem which makes = - the Mississippi $4. 00 : Miss ELLEN H. NORTH it easy to de- termine the best Geneseo Jam Kitchen Geneseo, N. Y. bid with any given hand. Con-

7 J LAS -_

aE me a + “ (See. Send for FREE Sample HYGLO Nail Polish Brilliant, tinted, delicately per- | fumed, waterproof, lasting. | Powder form, 25c; cake form, ak, st Wn rs ow ov og 5 ga

used su asfully by thousands. Send 25c f (coin and we ape fo ‘Lash-Brow-ine’’ 40 W.. 3%h STREET ard out beauty bozklet prepait in plain sealed Writeto ZAYDA Tel. Greeley 4349 401 State St

MAYBELL LABORATORIES, 1008. 62 Indiana Ave., Chicago (BEN-YUSUF) NEW YORK

Fiftieth Anniversary Year Harper's Bazar, April, 1917 144

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DO Serova Vest- ) pub- 1 two vhich Cn} es There Is a Fifth Avenue Tailor In Your Town! The PIONEER Tailoring Service enables you to have your suit made in New York without coming here. Your own dress- maker will show you our exclusive models and materials and take vour measure. The suit will be made bv our skilled tailors and will represent the latest ideas. America’s Leading Furriers AECKEL &SONS.. 16-18 West 32nd St. Announce a depar- ture in women’s tailoring, presented in an entirely new line of TOWN AND COUNTRY COATS of Summer Wool- ens designed with an intimate knowl- edge of the smartest coat requirements of Europe and America. They also invite in- spection of their Superb Summer Furs presented in an exhaustive col- lection. =r Importers of Models Pioneer Model Suit Co., Tailors to Well Dressed Women If your dressmaker has not our models, write us, and we will give you the name of one who has. 22 West 38th Street New York You owe it to your eyes to see that your lenses are fitted with They stick tight comfortably, hold the lenses in the correct optical posi- tion and are the most becoming because least conspicuous. SHELLTEX RIMS (=: oir —the latest in Shur-ons. Styl- ish and elegant, made to meet the mode. Like all Shur-ons, quality guaranteed. At most high-grade oculists, op- tometrists and opticians, or write us. Look for the name Shur-on or Shelltex in the bridge. E. KIRSTEIN SONS CO. : 245 Andrew St., Rochester, N.Y. vy Trade Mark Established 1864 It mars the beauty of your nails. Simplex, CUTICLE REMOVER stick with each bottle. Price At all Good Stores. Send 10 cents to pay for postage and packing. Dr. W. G. KORONY, Dont Cut the Cuticle, Get rid of ragged cuticle and hangnails. For a perfect manicureuse Contains no acid. No tools needed. Orange 25 and 50 cents. FREE Simplex Sample Manicuring Outfit, con- sisting of Cuticle Remover, Nail Polish, Nail Enamel, Nail Whitener, Orange Stick, Emery Board, Booklet of Home Manicuring Lessons. 133 S. Fifth, Louisville, Ky. | secret of YOUR footwear is the effective- ness. We make your shoes to your order just as a Tai- lor makes your gown —to suit your ideas and taste. in your Any Style—any Materials -—any Colors, to match any costume. Write for booklet of models and self meas- urement instructions, E. HAYES 9 West 29th St., New York No. 41 — African Brown walking boot inlaid with white kid. Price, $24.00. direction Secure X-Bazin powder from your druggist. Mix with water, apply thin layer to any un- welcome hair. Note how quickly, harmlessly and effectively the result is attained. Physi- cians endorse its formula. Price at druggists or by mail. Refuse dangerous substitutes that may disfigure the skin. HALL & RUCKEL 220 Washington St., New York “BAZIN DON’T YOU LIKE My Eyelashes andEyebrows? You can have the same mul: of 25c $e and 2 money order. a * LASHNEEN COMPANY. Dept. 29. Philadelphia 50e and $1 | | | Learn to Speak Other Languages You can study at home in comfort—in the privacy of your own boudoir, en- sconced in your easy chair. The voice of the best native teachers will speak to you, correctly and distinctly, slowly or rapidly, as you prefer. It will talk to you during spare mo- ments or for hours at a time—whenever you are in the mood to listen—until you have mastered the correct accent and pronunciation, FRENCH, GERMAN, SPANISH, ITALIAN Is Easily and Quickly Mastered by the Language Phone Method Rosenthal’s Practical Linguistry Highest Award, Panama-Pacific Exposition, 1915 With this method foreign language study be- comes a pleasant mental diversion. All the old-time drudgery of memorizing unnecessary rules, is eliminated. You learn in the natural way—the way you learned your own tongue hearing the living voice pronounce each word and phrase. Anyone can learn a foreign lan guage who hears it spoken often enough, and by this method you can hear it as often as you esire. A knowledge of a foreign language broadens the intellect, widens your acquaintance com- mercially and socially, perfects your conver- sational powers, and adds enjoyment to your reading and travel. Perhaps you need only brush up on the language you studied at school or college to make it of practical use. Write today for free ‘‘Treatise on Language Study,”” particulars of Trial Offer and Easy Payment Plan. You can use your own talking machine (if you prefer); our records fit all machines, Columbia, Victor, etc. THE LANGUAGE PHONE METHOD 901 Putnam Building, 2 W. 45th St., N. Y. Farewell to Perspiration Miseries No need to be embarrassed at social affairs! Give out every dance on your card and you can depend on Amolin to keep you sweet and fresh. Perspiration just can’t offend where Amolin isused. Amolin is the absolute- ly harmless deodorant because it does not prevent perspiration, but neutralizes perspiration odors. Amolin is easily applied and cannot stain. It has anti- septic and marvelous healing qualities, Use Amolin freely on your body after your bath. It is an unscented deodorant powder, of many uses and absolutely dependable for every purposes claimed for it. Sold at drug and department stores in 15 and 25c cans. If your dealer hasn’t Amolin, write us. AMOLIN CHEMICAL CO. Lodi, N. J. / Amolin Deodora Powder Mnitiseptic Anniversary Year Basar, April, 1917 Fiftieth Harper's

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sucasananannnsaseaiinitieiiniaaiiy pe Sos ” Sos pt Pe, ~ ~_ reeench > waa “Ss IN Bid v Set Ls Ww 9 woke ATW ) 7 Wy se ~ oF yyy SAY 4 r —- ae Miidddddddddddddda ee Z Nee \ 44 Yj il / ) ys : r = ay M \ | Wi) f ~\ | , = ‘ . ; , 7 . i p STERLING { ; J Pe . A yn nanan ee “ee ij “SS _ comes a time in the history of an industry, as in the history of a people, when one name shines forth above others as the embodiment of all those qualities whereby leadership is es- tablished and sustained. In the silversmithing arts it is now , an almost century-old tradition that the finest examples of the silversmithing craft whether lavish in design or economical in cost, carry the name and insignia of yorum SiO Gorham Sterling Silverware is sold by leading jewelers everywhere THE GORHAM (CO. Silversmiths and Goldsmiths Fifth Avenue and 36th Street 17-19 Maiden Lane NEW YORK Air Wis DN SILVERWARE 4 ¢ i N - mn

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UICK and complete pro- tection in case of sudden storm! That is one big advantage of the Willys-Knight Sedan. The opposite advantage is that you may as quickly have the sides open from end to end. But the prime advantage of this car 1s 1ts motor. It has the sliding sleeve-valve Continuously Efficient The Willys-Knight Motor transforms carbon, the effi- ciency destroyer, into carbon, the reconstructing life which builds up and sustains effi- ciency. type of motor which is dis- tinctly a better motor in many ways. It is the only motor that makes beneficial use of carbon. Instead of unseating the valves, carbon seals the fit of the sliding sleeves of the Willys- Knight Motor. So instead of a loss there is a gain in power, smoothness, quietness and flexibility. And size for size, it is a more powerful, more flexible mo- tor to begin with. Let the Willys-Overland dealer tell you about other advan- tages of the Willys-Knight Motor. The Willys-Overland Company, Toledo, Ohio Manufacturers of Willys-Knight and Overland Motor Cars “Made in U. S. A.” The 12000 Willys - Knights which went into service last year are now giving as many owners a continuously effi cient service they never be- fore enjoyed, PRICES: THE FOURS Sedan Limousine Coupe Seven Passenger Touring . THE EIGHT Seven Passenger Touring . . f. o. b. Toledo Subject to change without notice - $1285 - $1950

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a ; Mies oe ORS eer: aE WR OFS Oo emET ahe c Fe 2 % = , re, af * 4 i 4 Va | emoat k dlostet CAREY PRINTING COMPANY, ING

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