Harper's Bazaar 1915-05: Vol 50 Iss 5

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arpers Bajgar Vutdoor Number em, LATEST PARIS FASHIONS from Callot Chéruit Doucet Doeuillet Jeanne Lanvin x2 BY Jenny MAY ‘ ay f : Beer 1915 F Premet PRICE Lt A it Worth 15 CENTS \a a I a Paquin nti) 5 3 eee Redfern Martial et ’ Armand Maria Guy | Lewis Reboux Evelyne Varon Suzanne Talbot Georgette

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ANSCO CAMERAS @ FILM NSCO Speedex camera for snapshots on dull daysor fast time-ex- posures in poor light. It takes ng . the picture No. 3A ANSCO Speedex, every time and takes it right. No guess-work with its exact radius finder. Equipped with Ansco Anastigmat lens, working at F 6.3, and precision shutter with watch-timed speeds up to 1/3co second. Ah aly FL > ar De Use always the combination of Ansco Camera, Ansco Film and Cyko Paper for best results. Catalog from your dealer or from us, free upon request. « AN SCO OIG ID NN a BINGHAMTON NEW YORK

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A le : Fifth Avenue at Thirty-Fifth Street, New York City May Sale of Women’s Crepe de Chine Underwear At Remarkable Price Concessions This Annual Event commences Saturday May Ist No. 120-8 Mail orders filled promptly and delivered anywhere free ec ANT aN No, 120-9 il ! et Seen a i [= f No. 120-2 : \ | 7 No. 1206 — 8 Page Illustrated Booklet of Annual May Sales of Muslin Underwear at Greatly Reduced Prices, for Women and Children, mailed on request—Write Dept. 120 Today -_ 120-1—Crepe de chine Drawer Combination, in 120-4—Lace trimmed Envelope Chemise of 120-7—Crepe de chine Envelope Chemise, with pink or white, lace trimmed. . Special 5.00 pink or white crepe de chine. . Special 2.95 hemstitching and fine tucks; pink or 3 : ; MN a « X soisus osm pa mines Special 3.7 120 f : 120-5—Lace trimmed pink or white crepe de White — . -2—Pink or white crepe de chine Empire chine Underbodice .......... Special .98 120-8—Crepe de chine Underbodice trimmed Gown, lace trimmed......... Special 6.50 120-6—Petticoat of pink or white crepe de chine with fine val. lace; pink or white é spect 9 120-3—Empire C : : made with underlay and three pleated net rie Se mpire Gown of pink or white crepe de ruffles edged with pink satin ribbon ; 120-9—Lace trimmed crepe de chine Drawers; chine, lace trimmed .........Special 5.00 Special 5.00 pink or white.............- Special 3.25 a AMAA i ESM ! TAO a A REE aS EE

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PAGE HARPER’S BAZAR The Oldest Publication for Women in America. Vol. L FOR MAY, 1915 No. 5 Copyright, to15, by International Magazine Company (Harper's Bazar.) Published consecutively for Forty-nine Y ears. FASHIONS BY: DOEUILLET, CALLOT, CHERUIT, PREMET, DOUCET, WILLIAM SERGEANT KENDALL THREE GENERATIONS “Crosslights” . 2 te Dena a eee 16 ee IN oe ein a's as Piso eb bwenhetameweteeewes 35 LADY RANDOLPH CHURCHILL NITA NORRIS IS os coc renin cord t'n ke nha web WkhaeReA 17 EN Pais gO hs cons nes eae aad os ve ee eD 36, 37 EDGAR SALTUS DCEUILLET 2 a ee 18 Exclusive fashions from Paris.............sseeeeeee++s 3O VALSE FANT AISIE CALLOT A cow waits at the Placa Hotel... ... 0... ccsssvccccses Exclusive fashions from Paris... ............ccccccsccses POLO ENTHUSIASTS LES MODES CREEES A PARIS At the World’s Fair... ... beget ail ad NM renee GE io 6. os icc ccncvvevesieeees 40, 41 ELIZABETH HARRISON E. AINE NE ee onc. d vee ew Wind Secnded ann 21 French models at the San Francisco Exposition. ...... 42, 43 MINA KALLAND MARIA GUY rN coco sk a ako ceee ed tans Ree eRan oe 22 Exclusive millinery from Paris....................045- 44 THE COUNTESS OF WARWICK FROM PEAK TO KEELSON WE. fea caw vid cta be aemgmar pines 23 NN i oe a oe aicleigwihas wade vance | UNA NIXSON HOPKINS LADY DUFF GORDON III ies oor occ eek cele based sinus 24, 25 “The Last Word in Fashions”....... ... 46, 47 i THE FULLER DANCERS THE STAGE AS THE MIRROR OF FASHION Ss 5. cc ch asm dicate nawkebencselens 26 New gowns worn by stage favourites.................. 48 THE PUPPETS OF FASHION THE CLOTHES SHOW “And Who Pulls the String”..............0.0eee ee eee 27 Te a ee 49, 50, 51 MRS. HUMPHRY WARD PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE nore Chae sine mae haus kone wee 28 Buys everything for everybody............ 52, 53, S4, 55 ETHEL FRANCES MUNDY ELIZABETH LOUNSBERY The woman who achieves , ee 2 le I Se a adi iol gi aun) vie hw RRR 56, 57 WILLIAM J. LOCKE GARDNER TEALL Se ac ats adapt caracceaetenewGeRees 30, 31 “The Garden Intimate”. . biaecns, Se CLAUDE M. GIRARDEAU NATHALIE SCHENCK LAIMBEER I og oko o:5-5 Seo» ee Sd Ses Aries . = Table decorations......... ndiaite he MRS. GEORGE J. GOULD THE BEAUTY SHOP A new photograph........ 33 Necessities for the dressing-table....................... 66 E SCULPTURE AT THE WORLD’S FAIR TO EVERY MOTHER FOR EVERY CHILD And the models 34 Pretty frocks in city shops. . Bass . 94 JEANNE LANVIN, JENNY, PAQUIN, BEER, MARTIAL ET ARMAND, REDFERN HATS FROM: MARIA GUY, REBOUX, EVELYNE VARON, LEWIS, SUZANNE TALBOT Patterns, cut to the measurement of the individual, will be drafted from any costume shown in the magazine for $4.00, and $2.00 for waist, skirt or jacket. IS YOUR HARPER’S BAZAR LATE? Harper's Bazar is forwarded so as to be in the hands of subscribers and newsdealers all over the country on the 29th of each month. In certain sections, magazines do not receive the same handling as other classes of mail—they go by freight, which makes for slowness and irregularity of delivery. If your copy does not reach you by the 29th, please wait two or three days before writing us, as the magazine will probably be delivered within that time. By following this suggestion both subscribers and the publisher will be saved a great deal of unnecessary correspondenc ce. Harper’s Bazar is published monthly by the International Magazine Companv, George L. Willson, Poattents S. S. Carvalho, Treasurer: George von Utassy, Secre- tary, 119 West 40th Street, New York City. Single Copies, 15 cents. Yearly subscriptions, $1.5 When Po The . notice that your subscription has expired it is best to renew at once, using os blank enclosed, so that no interruption will occur in your receipt ol e azar. In requesting change of address please give the address to which The Bazar is now being sent, as well as the new one. Entered at the New York Post-office as second-class mail. to HARPER’S BAZAR, 119 West 40th Street, New York City 2 Address all communications

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Har per ) a a ee a aT aT a —— ~ Ss eet HAL | | TT TT IDUANVAUAUANTAAUVUUARNOSAN UD DAATTANEUDRVIUIA Rai _ UMN hh T T T T ’ T T T Thy T 7 =e TT HL HAVEAGAOTPUNTRETEAONWOGPAATAGANILOVEGNAUTALEUAATORDRGLA EAA UL HEL TOOT OTA EY LTT HU AS Blouses by Premet, Worth, aieiii and Drecoll Ravedueed at $10.75 by GIMBELS NOTE—Reproductions are perfect in every detail—except that the Paris models were made by hand, and our copies are only partially hand-made. A—Premet model, $10.75. In Organdie—White, Orchid, D—Drecoll model, $10.75. In White Handkerchief Linen Beige or Flesh-color. This blouse introduces the back with or White, Beige or Flesh-color Organdie. Fronts and back inset diamond-shaped panel which extends into collar. Large are of pressed pleats—not stitched tucks. This model has the hand-bound button-holes. new collar with wide slit in centre of back. Pearl buttons and B bound button-holes. Worth model, $10.75. In Organdie—White, Beige or E—Premet model, $10.75. In White, Beige or Flesh-color Flesh-color. The fronts are beautifully tucked, and the cuffs and collar are partially cluster-tucked to give the new flare finish. Collar has new Piccadilly ends. Cravat and wristlets Organdie. There never has been such a collar—it is voluminous, and yet is a continuation of the back. Exquisitely tucked and finished with Valenciennes lace beading. of ribbon. A F—Worth model, $10.75. In Organdie—White, Beige, Or. C -Paquin model, $10.75. In White Linen with hand-bound chid or Flesh-color. The double frill of lace and the daintily button-holes in blue, yellow or heliotrope. High standing tucked bosom make this blouse quaint. Cravat and wrist- collar has large hand-bound slits for the cravat to slip through. bands of silk. G—Copy of a Paris Model. In white Voile, $2; White Organdie, $2.95; White or Flesh-color Georgette Crepe, $5; Plain or Fancy Crepe de Chine, $5. Vestee and high turn-over collar (frill at back) of white organdie. White crocheted ornaments, GIMBEL BROTHERS Broadway and 33d Street - - NEW YORK AIT LL! Bazar, May, 1915 ”

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FROM P CROSSL AINTING BY Wil G 1AM St RGI ork AN Kf NDALL RAR RPL oes

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By the Simmering Samovar By LADY RANDOLPH CHURCHILL SKETCHED FROM LIFE ESPECIALLY FOR HARPER'S BAZAR BY ERNEST S. KLEMPNER XN ] f AN OLS i AVAG oN i & A Poverty, once a crime, is now a virtue to be assumed, if not possessed. Lady Randolph Churchill, writing exclusively for Harper’s Bazar, tells how caste distinction is being re- placed by a new brotherhood born of the stern exigencies of war. HAT lessons this war is teaching us! And not the least is the necessity for thrift, at best an unpopular virtue. There is no doubt that before the war here in England, we were getting into a recklessness of expenditure which had advanced in an amazing fashion the last twenty years. Only @ year or two ago, Mrs. Asquith, the Prime Minister’s wife, as a witness in a court of law, was obliged to admit that extravagance was more likely to be an ‘open sesame” than a barrier to society. To go a little further back, in the seventies and eighties a young couple with social aspirations thought £2,000 a year, or thereabouts, ample income to marry on, whereas in this twentieth century few of the jeunesse dorée would venture to live on what they would consider such a miserable pittance. I remember the late millionaire, Mr. James R. Keene, telling me that what struck him the most on his visits to England was the number of people who had £4,000 or £5,000 a year and how extremely well every one lived, but he did not realize that in so-called ‘“‘society”’ extravagance and extravagant ideas had arrived at such a pitch that very few marriages took place. But this war is revolutionising everything; we are becoming more simple, primitive in fact, and it is no longer thought a crime to be poor. The present crisis has given, moreover, a wonderful stimulus to the marriage market. Fired by the thought of the ‘girl he is leaving behind him,” the young sol- dier of to-day, regardless of pounds, shillings and pence, rushes into matrimony before going off to the tront, or while at home on a few days’ leave from the trenches. Phat everything will be changed when this great struggle is over is a certainty, and we shall surely resort to a simpler mode of life which will last for, at least, a generation or two. For the more virile a nation becomes, the more she seeks for, and asks lor, simplicity and truth. All the shallow, stupid, snobbish habits, which were beginning to blot out our horizon, are vanishing like mists before the sun. In France the simple life is still more the order of the day. Even in the richest families, establish been reduced to two maid servants and © dishes suffice for dinner. Some French ment have i a V people have even gone so far as to have a cold buffet, consisting of the plainest and most homely food, laid out in the dining-room, at which the household generally has to help itself, thereby dispensing with all service. Added to this, the Governor of Paris has forbidden all music in public, and so, in the once gay city, there is a chastening of the body and soul which, to say the least, must be depressing. English people, who are supposed to take their pleasures sadly, are taking their trials with a much lighter heart. In London our theatres and concerts are crowded. But, then, we have not got the enemy entrenched at Reading which is the equal distance of Soissons from Paris; and we do not dwell on air raids as, up to now, they have proved from the strategic standpoint to be too futile to worry us. The pinch of war The most extravagant are undoubtedly altering their ways. Take the matter of dress. Even the women who are rich enough not to feel appreciably the pinch of war, do not—I might even say dare not indulge in buying new frocks and furbelows. To be dressed in the latest fashion is not to be in the right note. To look too smart argues too much thought of oneself. If, perchance, a_ frivolous one appears in a new dress, she invariably apolo- gises for it. ‘‘I was absolutely in rags,” or “This is only a wretched little garment my maid has run up for me.” Then, again, in the matter of food and of servants, everything is changed. “Jeames de la Pluche”’ has gone, and Mary Ann is to the fore with her trim cap and apron. Nowadays, instead of the cere- monious written invitation to dinner, a message generally comes by telephone ‘“‘Do come and dine. But hope you won’t mind! Only war fare!”’ Most of the powdered flunkeys, so dear to the heart of Mayfair and Belgravia, have thrown off the badge of servitude and in enlisting have found their man- hood. What a leveler is Khaki! The sloping-shouldered shifty-eyed footman returns after six weeks’ or two months’ training with a straight back and a bold eye to take leave before going to the Front, and you grasp him by the hand and wish him “ God speed,” and think him more than an equal. To help him and his like, to get him comforts when in the trenches and aid when he returns, perhaps a battered wreck of humanity, you feel you would, if necessary, wear the same garment until the war was over, like Isa- bella of Austria, who while besieging Ostend, oddly enough, took an oath that she would not change her linen until the town was taken. Evidently women in olden days thought this a most efficacious con tribution to the war, as the same story is told of Isabella of Castile at the siege of Granada. With diminishing incomes and an increasing cost of living, people are forced to retrench. To the natural ‘‘ pincher”’ this is a boon, and he takes every advantage of it. One such rich man was asked the other day what he was contributing to the war. Taken aback, after a moment’s hesitation he said, “Well, I've put all my servants on half wages.” But on the other hand, a contemporary justly points out that we owe something to extravagance, for thrift and adventure seldom go hand in hand, and those who have been driven by empty pockets out of this country to try their luck at the ends of the earth have made the best of colonists. There are few topics of social controversy more frequent than the relative extravagance of men and women, and neither sex will ever give in as to which should claim the supremacy. ‘Just consider what you spend on dress,” says the man. ‘“‘What about your sport?” retorts the fair one. “Think how much you fritter away in things you do not need,” he reminds her. ‘Think of the sums you lose gam- bling,”’ she replies, and so on, ad infinitum. There is no doubt that money made by the “sweat of the brow” is not usually squandered. But as the majority of women do not make money, they naturally have a greater capacity for spending it. However, no rule can be laid down; it is a matter of temperament and habit. Women are as capable of as great self-denial as men, but their bringing up is different and, not having the responsibility of money, they are content in many cases to have merely the spending of an allowance which is often elastic. The following definition of economy as practised by both sexes may be true, if not flatter- ing. ‘*A man will pay a dollar for a fifty cent thing that he wants, and a woman will pay fifty cents for a dollar thing that she does not want.”

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FOR Vol. L PAGE WILLIAM SERGEANT KENDALL MI te ic Neng unk ee rckn deka none cuewah 16 LADY RANDOLPH CHURCHILL NI caso urinceneweieiesce wk er eemane’ 17 EDGAR SALTUS Ie WMO WOME «vin oes do nsccSee sce ceeddeoes 18 VALSE FANT AISIE A new waltz at the Plaza Hotel...................... 19 POLO ENTHUSIASTS ee eo oo kin kc cnccwcadeeseds ct 20 ELIZABETH HARRISON ws | gE ae tegen GN RS a na ee 21 MINA KALLAND I I CN os oe os ol cncindnn nave edacwcseden 22 THE COUNTESS OF WARWICK PM MI 5. Sfacered. ch. 903 RA SS PAER EO Yo Ole eee RES 23 UNA NIXSON HOPKINS Cid-ol- Door thestnes.. ... oc nccccccsccccswens. 24, 25 THE FULLER DANCERS AMES. . gos csc not nx'scp bln cieasiewdsckes 26 THE PUPPETS OF FASHION OM WE Te CIE 506 c reicaninescedeeveosen 27 MRS. HUMPHRY WARD CE on a eae enanesnimcwewnneenae en 28 ETHEL FRANCES MUNDY The woman who achieves ..............--0eee0000: . 29 WILLIAM J. LOCKE Ts aad a ch en Ghte Mbescmmanbeenens 30, 31 CLAUDE M. GIRARDEAU “The Gem Dealer”... . 0.2.0... ccc c ccc cece cceeee a MRS. GEORGE J. GOULD A new photograph........ 33 SCULPTURE AT THE WORLD’S FAIR And the models.......... hws 34 FASHIONS BY: HARPER’S BAZAR The Oldest Publication for Women in America. MAY, Copyright, 1915, by International Magazine Company. Published consecutively for Forty-nine Y ears. 9t3 No. 5 (Harper's Bazar.) PAGE THREE GENERATIONS ee TINS ok Cat Worn nso 5 aodcananebew nue dees 35 NITA NORRIS AS Stale Fg Rate pues rtnenrr oe mee 36, 37 DOEUILLET Exciusive fashions from Paris... .... 2... cccccccccceces 38 CALLOT Exclusive fashions from- Paris... .. .... 2... ccccccccccss 39 LES MODES CREEES A PARIS I Mrnmis NE 6. oni sis si dies ccsecacicieees 40, 41 E. AINE French models at the San Francisco Exposition....... 42, 43 MARIA GUY Bacusive miltinery feomt Parts... .. ..... 2.60. cssevcsces tt FROM PEAK TO KEELSON IN 8 FT so Os cca tidla aac dadegiaa ws 45 LADY DUFF GORDON Ws Lak Week Gr PANNE oon oo os oe cence 46, 47 THE STAGE AS THE MIRROR OF wo New gowns worn by stage favourites.................. THE CLOTHES SHOW In the New York shops... ............0..00005 49, 50, Sf PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE Buys everything for everybody............ 52, 53, 54, 55 ELIZABETH LOUNSBERY I oo xog sain con wolecines ocala seedaaiees 56, 57 GARDNER TEALL “The Garden Intimate”... ......6 ccc ccc ccceveens 58, 59 NATHALIE SCHENCK LAIMBEER Table decorations.......... THE BEAUTY SHOP Necessities for the dressing-table....................... 66 TO EVERY MOTHER FOR EVERY CHILD Peetty feacks in city shops... . . «05.65 cccscccevecees 94 DOEUILLET, CALLOT, CHERUIT, PREMET, DOUCET, JEANNE LANVIN, JENNY, PAQUIN, BEER, MARTIAL ET ARMAND, REDFERN HATS FROM: MARIA GUY, REBOUX, EVELYNE VARON, LEWIS, SUZANNE TALBOT Patterns, cut to the measurement of the individual, will be drafted from any costume shown in the magazine for $4.00, and $2.00 for waist, skirt or jacket. IS YOUR HARPER’S BAZAR LATE? Harper's Bazar is forwarded so as to be in the hands of subscribers and newsdealers all over the country on the 29th of each month. In certain sections, magazines do not receive the same handling as other classes of mail—they go by freight, which makes for slowness and irregularity of delivery. If your copy does not reach you by the 29th, please wait two or three days before writing us, as the magazine will probably be delivered within that time. By following this suggestion both subscribers and the publisher will be saved a great deal of unnecessary correspondence. Harper’s Bazar is published monthly by the [International Magazine Companv, George L. Willson, President: S. S. Carvalho, Treasurer: George von Utassy, Secre- tary, 119 West 40th Street, New York City. Single Copies, 15 cents. Yearly subscriptions, $1.50. When you re receipt of The Bazar ceive notice that your subscription has expired it is best to renew at once, using the blank enclosed, so that no interruption will occur in your In requesting change 2 address please give the address to which The Bazar is now being sent, as well as the new one. Address all communications Entered at the New York Post-office as second-class mail. to HARPER’S BAZAR, 1139 West 40th Street, New York City

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PRT ESS é. FIFTH AVENUE, 37th and 38th Sts., NEW YORK Women’s and Misses’ 503 Coats, Skirts, Hats and Shoes At Special Prices sor. Sport Coat, copy of Importéd 503. Tailored Coat of Imported navy 505. Dressy Silk Coat of ‘“‘Waterfall” model, of English blazer flannel, in or white gabardine, also tan covert silk (a new ribbed silk velour fibre), white with black, blue or brown stripes; gabardine, or black and white velour lined with soft silk, in gold, light blue, pleats at sides held with black velvet checks, lined with soft silk, new double white, rose, black, grey, beige, white strap; collar, cuffs and facing of black belted model, straight military front and black or black and white, with velvet, pearl buttons, lined with hand- from round yoke, detachable collar of collar and cuffs of white “Waterfall” some flowered silk. = natural pongee silk, can be worn open, silk, sash belt. 25.00 trimmed with novelty buttons, inserted 29.50 pleat down center of back. 19.75 50sA. Imported White Washable Cor- sorA. White Wool Serge Skirt, but- } y Skirt, gathered back, four-inch toned front and crushed girdle, bound 503A. ‘*Field Club’’ Skirt, of Imported duroy Skirt, gathered bac = > detachable girdle, slash pockets with with white silk braid. White washable cotton gabardine, but r 8.75 toned front, pearl buttons, corded lap. 6.95 pockets, detachable belt. 6.75 505B. Mannish Crush White Panama 501B. White Panama Straw Hat, yelvet ribbon band and bow, black, ted. 503B. White Panama Straw Hat, Straw Hat, black grosgrain ribbon Copen and green. 5.95 band and bow of blue, green, or black band and bow. 4.95 o- and white striped ribbon. 5.95 ; : ss e n ; 505C. Sport Sandal Pumps of white sorC. Tennis Oxford Shoes : ges oe 503C. Sport Shoes of genuine white buckskin, patent leather trimmings, white buckskin, highest grade rubber buckskin, laced, highest grade rubber highest grade felt soles and_ heels. soles and heels. 5.00 soles and heels. 6.00 5.50 —franklin Simon & Co. WOMEN’S SIZES, 34 to 44; MISSES’, 14 to 20 YEARS | 507 . 507. Silk Jersey Sport Coat, new blouse model in rose, Copenhagen blue, black, gold, grey or all white, collar and cuffs of white Jersey, patch pockets, sash belt. 18.50 507A. Box Pleated Skirt, of wool serge, white, navy or black, with detachable belt. 6.75 507B. White Panama Straw Hat, telescope crown, velvet ribbon band and bow, in red, black, green or Copen. 6.95 507C. Sport Shoes of white buckskin with black or tan Russia calf trim ming, rubber soles and heels. g ;, 7.00 Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 3

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Antiques ANTIQUE FURNITURE ome China, Pewter, Glass, etc. No reproduc- tions therefore no catalogues. Henry V. Weil, York 57th Street, New Baby’s Goods and Novelties of Quz ey Free Booklet. Frank Ave nue, ate 4 126 East

SAWYER Furniture for Baby and Mother Sawyer, 351 Independence City, Mc

Beauty Treatment A PERFECT SKIN TIGHTENER— Der- matine For flabbiness and wrinkles. Send 25e for sample bottle Helene Swift's Beauty Creations, 168 W. 48th St. Tel. Bryant 5614 LUXURIOUS MANICURE by Prof. Theo Miller's non-cutting method Mignon” Pocket Outfit postpaid, $1. Other sets to $3.50.

JSS AS Assad asd aSas

Rate for Classified conor Under This "hake One Year Thirty Dollars Payable quarterly in advance, five per cent cash discount. Payable yearly, Uniform type. fz al 1 [ in advance, ten per cent cash discount. ul average of twenty-five words. ij preceding month. Sas dae Saas

Space limited to four agate lines, Forms close first of

Soa dase et dees aed

Ladtes’ Tailors (continued) THE REMODELING SHOP—out of style gowns and suits remodeled. Mme. Blair, 132 W.

| 9lst Street, New York. Phone 4884 Riverside.

SCHOTZ & CO. Tailored Suits—Afternoon and Evening Gowns—Rich Furs. Special facili- ties for out = town orders. 4 New York. 71 Fifth Avenue, FORMAN — Ladies’ Tailor & Furrier—687 ) Bh -— Ave., nr. 62d St., N. First class fitter i nerf ig women. Attractive prices. Phone, aza 4

Dancing THE OstAR DURYEA SCHOOLS Vest 72nd Street, and 57 West 182nd Street, N.Y. The New Dances Deportment Dehcacies

> Aesthet ies.

Theo. Miller Mfg. Co., Edison Co. Bldg., N. Y SACHET DE BEAUTE-RIVIERA. Makes a | PINE TREE COTTAGE PRODUCTS. Mint soft,milky and perfumed solution for bathing and | jelly, French pickle, quince, honey, ete. Made | be: wutify ing skin of face and hands. Six sachets in a home kitchen, by original receipts. Mrs in dainty box, 50c. Riviera, 450 5th Ave., N.Y Geo. B. Preston, Philipse Manor, New York FEUILLES DE MENTHE. French mint etc. Willow or Ostrich Plumes French plume, collar- aigrettes cleaned, re- 34th Boas, Feathers, MME. BLOCK made into a handsome ette or boa Paradise modelled. Ostrich fans repaired. 36 W. st | H. METHOT French Feather Dyer and Dresser of the Art of Reconstruction. Old feathers made into New. 29 West 34th Street, Y OLD FEATHERS. Willows remade into French plumes and military pompons Pars

dise, aigrettes remodeled, dyed to match gow ns Mail orders promptly filled Ideal Feather Co., 17 W. 42d St., N. Y

Candles ORIGINAL MEXICAN CANDIES. quetas de piloncillo tions in typical package, Sweets, San Antonio, Tex “ORANGETTES”—The delightful new Cali- fornia confection made from the sun-kissed navel orange. Send 10 cents for dainty sample box. Orangette Co., Los Angeles, | LORD’S DOLLAR CHOCOLATES in one, two, three and five pound boxes delivered post pair i anywhe re in the United States, $1.00 per pound. Lord & Son, 484 Congress St., Portland. Me REPETTI WALNUT PUFFS are on sale at the Repetti Shop, near the Waldorf. Send twenty-five cents for introductory A uckage. Repetti, 30 West 34th Street, New York Children’s Clothes HAND-MADE CHILDREN’S DRESSES from six months to fifteen years Smocks a specialty, also rompers Reasonable prices * Herzner, 841 Hancock St., Brooktyn, N. Y Chiropody

Palan- $1, prepaid.

Originator | Delightful pecan confec- | Palace of | | SUPERFLUOUS HAIR perm: nnently ty destroye ed; leaves glacée. An after dinner delicacy and nice addition to whipped cream and drinks, 25¢ and 50c. Parfumerie Riviera, 450 Fifth Ave.

Dress Plaitng & Trimmings HEMSTITCHING— Accordion and knifepleat- ings, pinking, buttons covered and buttonholes Dressmakers and tailor supplie es. Prompt mail order service. B.Goldsmith& Co.,666 6thAv.,.N.Y

Educational

CORRESPONDENCE COURSES. Ladies’ and children’s hairdressing, manicuring, ete Refined vocation, spare or full time Book free. Elizabeth King, 93A, Station F, N Cc

ETIQUETTEtaught by mail; what to wear, do, write or say under all circumstances. Your ques- tions answered for $1. Entire course, 20 subje 8, $10. Best authority. Mile. Louise, 118 W. 57 St.

Gow ye ms and Waists Ready to Wear (continued) MAXON MODEL GOWNS. (Estab. One patron said she outfitted both her debutante daughter and herself for the same price it a cost formerly for herself alone. 1552 Broad’y, N. Y. CONANT. INC.—spring models now shown. Special vaiues in dancing frocks. Fifth Avenue, New York, 420 Boylston Street, Boston

bain

v r e Gowns and Waists a ll VICTORINE—REBUILDER OF GOWNS. Old gowns of every kind remodeled equal to new. Evening gag a specialty. 160 V 84th St., New York ARTISTIC DRESSES Made from your own material. U nusual Sa ay ae ag eI prices. Homer, 11'4 W. a. 265 Greeley MRS. COPELAN Makes distinctive gowns. Also offers model gowns in stock sizes. The Cambridge Bldg., 334 Fifth Ave., N. Y. THERESE MILMOE— Careful attention tothe mode necessary for the client's individual style. Inexpensive evening gowns aspecialty. Materials taken. 201 W. 109th St., Phone 2216 Riverside le rocks, suits, original con- ceptions, striking creations, perfect fit & tailor- ing guar. Expert remodeling. Satisfaction as- sured. 13 W. 35th St., New York.

FASHION DESIGNING by Correspondence

Courses. Parisian technical system for expres- sion in Costume Designs. shions Individu- | alitv. Brown, 1290 Sutter St., San Francisco, Cal MRS. SPENCER (formerly) LE BOUDOIR Smart linens for the South. The latest in danc- ing frocks. Exclusive French Blouses, “aon Gowns & negligees at moderate prices. 24 W. $ % F

Electrolysis Treatment For Superfluous Hair SUPERFLUOUS HAIR, Moles and facial blemishes permanently removed by electricity. a ae Electrolysis Co., 104 E. 40th St., Tel. Murray Hill 1844. S. P. Gilmore AELEN BRIGGS, Electric Needle Expert, per- manently removes hairs, moles, warts, birth- marks. Eyebrows beautified. 12 years at 113 Broadway, now at 437 5th Ave.. corner 39th St SUPERFLUOUS HAIR on face and body per- manently destroyed. Guaranteed Has stood the test 38 years. No electricity or poison ‘Ime. Julian. 16 W. 47th St.. N. Y¥

| MISS WALSH— Gowns for all occasions. MARGUERITE B. KELLEN, 53 72nd St., New York. Smart gowns and coats for all occa- sions. Beach frocks. Out of town customers with- out fitting Prices reasonable. Tel. 9558 Col. MME. BROWN, 677 Lexington Av., N. Y., cor. 56th St. I make and remodel gowns to your indi- vidual taste at most reas. prices. Work guar- anteed. Satisfaction assured. Tel. 4928 Plaza. Im- ported models, also models of my own creation. Prices moderate. Estimates given. 60 W a 53d Street. Telephone 7295 Bryant, N. Y.

GALE GAYLARD— Gowns, coats and ev cning After first gown, no other fittings re- wraps. 1744 auired. Form is gk for every individual. Broadway at 56th S io:

Electric Needle process; No pain; ef- erences; DemonstrationF net ytd a ry $1; Writ- tenGuarantee Mrs. Florence Woodley, 47 W.348t

Dr. E. N. COGSWELL, Surgeon Chiropodist Expert Manicuring. Dr. Cogswell's Foot Tonic insures comfort, $1 Foot Ointment, 50c. Toilet Powder, 25c. 501 Fifth Ave.. New Vork

Cleaning and Dyeing REES & REES, Cleaners and Dyers of Gowns, Costumes, Automobile Suits, Waists, Curtains, Blankets, Carpets, etc. 541 Fifth Ave., New York REES & REES, Soft to touch.

Glove Cleaning Specialists No odor MME. C. WALKER, 347 5th Ave. Superfluous hair removed by Stationary Multiple Electric Needle. Removes 360 hairs in one hour Sage pain. Free demonstration. Phone 715. 3 ABSOLUTELY GUARANTEED. Supe are hair, moles and warts permanently and painlessly re eves Ida Weinberver, 47 West 34th St., N. Y Suite 528. Marbridge Bidg.. Phone 177 Greeley

Embroidery | CROSS-STITCH PATTERNS New. quaint & charming. Just published, 80c set of four sheets,

| Sweet, like new | post-pd. Special prices to gift shops. Edith 541 Fifth Ave., New York. |} Allen Hall, Stamford, Conn REES & REES, Cleaners and Dyers. 14 Shops ~ e in New York, also at Boston, Brookline, Brook- 4 . lyn “Phitadelphia, Hartford, Worcester and Employment Agent 72S Atlantic C 5 ‘ifth Ave., New York - Atlante CO eee MISS BRINKLEY, 507 sth Ave. N.Y .nrdaa

REES & REES pay Parcels Post or Express charges one way, anc parcels post packages are insured. ‘Try us and be convinced 641 Fifth Ave., New York MME. M. OBRY—Cleaning and dyeing. For dependabie work Main office, 5 East 45th st Stores turoughout Manhattan. KNICKERBOCKER CLEANING CO. High cli and dyers of New York Main office, 02 r ast 31st St. Murray Hill 6618 Branch offices, telephone connection Corsets GOSSARD FRONT LACED CORSETS. Fitted by experienced corsetieres, $3.50 up Corsets made to order. Oimstead Corset Co., 79 Madison Avenue at 34th St.. N. ¥ T. THOMA, CORSETIERE. Astor Court Building, 25 W. 33rd Street, York. Telephone 469 Greeley. $20 AND $25 CORSETS this month only $10 and $15. Foreign models duplicated Alter- ations. Mme. Cleo, 1106-45 W. 34th St., N. Phone Greeley 1288 MME. BINNER, Corsetiere, is cultivating figures with her famous

New

Tel.2414 Mur'y Hill. Supplies governesses, house keepers, competent household servants, personal- ly investigating references. Inventories taken. Flesh Reduction REDUCELETTES RIVIERA. Devised by physician specialist As safe, sane and effective as famous European treatments and free from harm or hardships, $1.50. Riviera, 450 Fifth Ave

Greeting — Place Cards UNIQUE HAND-COLORED GIFT CARDS Greetings and place cards for Valentine's, Easter and all occasions. Free circular. Ernest Dud- lev Chase. HB Ashburton PI., Boston. FASTER CARDS THAT ARE DIFFERENT. Engraved, hand- colored. Beautiful sentiments. Tilus. catalog * Fag 5 oe Free. Little Art Shop, 1419 F. a . Washington, D.C Hair & Scalp Treatment PARKER’S METHOD OF HAIR TREAT- ment. Cleanses scalp of imperfections and promotes healthyhair. Personalconsultation. Writeforbook- let H.B. *‘Healthy Hair.”” 51 W. 37th St BERTHA-BURKETT CO. Keep your hair young, an attractive and becoming color, and beautifully lustrous by using our ‘‘ Nu-Sheen" Treatment, a safe. sctentifie hair colorine THERE IS NO CAUTION on the label of Nu- Sheen. It is absolutely harmless and gives per- fect results. Applications made at our parlors, 92 West 39th Street Ns ee a RIVIERA. SHAMPOO LIQUID. A medicated pivste ians’ soap devised by famous specialist. Cleanses, beautifies, and keeps hair healthy. 8 oz. bot. $1.00. Parfumerie Riviera, 450 Fifth Ave HENNA CLOREAL, new discovery, not a liquid. restores gray hair to any desired shade; made of pul- verized herbs, guaranteed harmless. B. Ciément, French Hair Shop. 17 East 35th Street. N. ¥

For the Teeth DECIGHTFUL MOUTH WASH. A fewdrops of Dentalo-Riviera to glass of water kills germs and odors, cleanses, and leaves nice taste and scent, 4oz. bot.. 25¢. Perfumerie Riviera, 450 Fifth Ave

Furniture FOLDING CARD TABLE Solid Mahogany; Felt Top 30 in. sq., $2. Write for Booklet Sug- gestions. Full line of furniture . F. Ahern & | Son, 124 East 41st Street, New York

Furs

specialty

| ITALIAN LOVE E VASE Kings es

Home Furnishings and Decorating K. R. ERRY gives individual attention which satisfies customers Beautiful cushion covers a specialty. Write, phone or call, Fifth Avenue Jewelry & Silver Ware ITALIAN LOVE VASE— Table decoration used by New York'ssoc act, se t: quadruple silver base, Lotus glass ¢ ontainer, dea pair,guar.10yrs. Stello Italia Silver ¢ R33, 82 Nassau St., New York. and Queens of

as tokens of affection

olden days save Love

ate »w establis > 561 F snue, | FUR STORAGE by expert furriers; $ 7 : months at very moderate prices. 8S. Christiansen, Ttalia Silver Co.. 82 Nassau St.. New York. ODWIN. Corsets of every description ase > Seats to wear from 85; and custom made 600 Ms adison. Ave., Dresst ag Dyers and Manu- from $10 373 Fifth Ave. ‘at B5th St i ¥ | facturers of *‘ Reliable Furs pp Telephone 3293 Murray Hill BUY FURS NOw. Summer. Prices, You HE “M H” CORSET insures youthful figure | never saw such, values Write for catalog anc MRS. RAYMOND BELL, 1 Fast 45th St. 7 absolute comfort. No othe cornet simil: ar crecount ee, bgt Reonemne, modeling old and Modern Laces, Bridal laces and | —$10 upward. Booklet on request. Gene Wat- | Herman Reel Co., tt ea ae zace cleaning and mending by experts gon, 23 East 45th Street, New York | G / W, 7 7, F amily Laces sold on commission ° rowns and Waists — = Corset Hospital Ready to Wear Ladies’ Tailors CORSETS RENOVATED at moderate cost. | MAXON MODEL GOWNS.’ (Estab. 1899.) If | TAILORED GOWNS REMODELED te pte My specialty is copying favorite foreign or do- mestic corsets exact or modified. Alonso, 500 Fifth Ave. and 42nd St Y Harper's Vay, Bazar Tors

! Originals only. you can wear model sizes we have dainty creations accustomed to pay at one-half the price you are 1552 Broad’y,N.Y. Maxon&Co

‘ from $65 up. styles 19 years’ oe - 286 Fifth Ave., N. Y. Tailored suits Tel. 158 Madison Square. vailing t ‘omstock, 1899.) | 366 |

Lingerie EXTREMELY CHIC—Hand-embroidered Tea

Gowns, Matinees, Crepe de Chine undergar- ments, ete. Designs worked to suit your per- sonality. Leaflet. Joan Viva. 501-5th Av., N.Y.

Linens ASCHER-LE VIN, Art Linens.

Importers of Decorative Trousseaux Specialists. Exclusive

French Blouses. Compare our estimates. Ask for booklet. 561 Fifth Ave.. N. Y. THE OLIVIA LINENS. Quaint designs. Cocktail napkins, runners, bridge sets, porch sets; baby and children’s gifts. Send for list. Olivia, 2375 B. Fairfield Ave., Bridgeport, Conn.

Millinery LADIES’ STRAW HATS REMODELED into

| latest styles, or copied from Harper's. Cleaned, dyed, or colored. Hats trimmed. Sa ia eae Flowers. Pricelist. A. Neumann, 24E.4th

| Prahar, 114 W. LESSONS in how to make and trim your own

hats. Prices reasonable. Catalogue will be sent on receipt of two-cent stamp. Mme. Loie 516 Fifth Avenue New York. JOSEPHINE THOESEN Exclusive styles now on display. Reasonable prices 17 West 42d St., New York. Miscellaneous MME.NAFTAL pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used evening, street and dinner costumes, a, diamonds, jewelry, sil- verware. 69 West 45th St. Tel. 670 Bryant. UNIQU E LAMP SHAD! ADES— Blue Prints show- ing detail of how to make four totally different styles. Send 60c. Easy and cheap to make. Also photos of elegant standards. Eva Ferne, Jackson, Mich. HOROSCOPES CAST—SsSend $2 & have your past read & future foretold. Give maiden name, date & year & hou: of birth. Anne Brown, Box 3215, Station F., Washington, D. C. Motion Picture Plays WRITE MOVING PICTURE PLAYS-—s$50 each. Devote all or spare time. Correspond- ence course not required. Details free. Atlas Pub. Co., 416 Atlas Bldg., Cincinnati, O. Musical CAROLINE MIHR-HARDY, SOPRANO— Soloist, Marble C ollegiate C hure h, 29th St. & Ave.,! Voice Culture. Pupils prepared tor Cc aren, Concert or Opera. 309 W. 86th St., . Y. Tel. 8280 Schuyler.

Oriental Rugs ORIENTAL RUGS and carpets cleaned, washed, repaired and dyed by Native Experts. 16th year in New York. Seven Tatosian Bros., 13 E. 43d St Murray Hill 5356. Patterns PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE for Ladies’ and Children’s garments after any Illustration

or description; reasonable prices, perfect fit. Special attention to mail orders. Mrs. Weisz, 41 W. 35th

Photography WONDERFUL PORTRAITS BY LILIAN George. Your real self at your best. Call up Bryant 706 now and make appointment to look over samples. Studio, 43 West 46th St., N. Y. PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAITURE “of dis- tinction, restoring and copying of Daguerreo-

types and other old pictures. Home Photog- raphy at reasonable prices. Bradley Studios, 435 Fifth Ave.. N

Shopping Commissions JANET PORTER shops for or with patrons. careful attention. Circular. Bank references. 54 W. 92nd St., N. Y. Tel. Riverside 6177. MRS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopping. Ww vad shop with you or send anything on ap- proval. Services free Send for bulletin of Boring Specials. 366 Fifth Avenue, New York. MRS. S. D. JOHNSON shops for and with customers without charge. Rush pours orders and rugs a specialty 347 ve opp. Waldorf-Astoria. Tel. 2070 Murray “Hil, MRS. K. E. TIRNEY. Established 1884. Purchasing agent—all lines of goods, but espe- cially gowns and tailor-made suits from meas- ures “5 W. 47th St.. N. Y. Tel. 3077 Bryant. MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLIN

No charge. Prompt,

Pureh oe Agent. Accompanying out-of-town patron No charge References. Cc “oy a J ing. Steamer baskets. 112 W. llth St., N. Y. | MRS._H. GOODALE ABERNETHY Shopping C ommissions. No charge 37 Madison Ave., } 75 Boundary Road, London, V 12 Rue Rennequin. Paris. | N BOTH I ADITES AND GENTLEMEN. Place the both. of shopping with me. Gift sugges- tions. Services free. References. Write Mrs Anna 79th St., Phone Schuyler 7140.

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5 RS TTT TTT Pa bed oe QOUUOPEUU AAU AAMUATOPOATEEED AACE AD i TM TTT UU TT TT Hl IY OTT CATT ULL Shopping Commissions (cont.) Travel Uniforms for Maids, etc. Unusual Gifts ( ( wnt.) LET FLORENCE ALLEN do your shopping. THE PARKHURST WARDROBE TRUNK Smart apparel for men and women. nishing. Inexpensive but unusual effects in papering and ea Mi A a ialty. Room 723, 500 Fifth Ave., sity MISS HOLLIDAY WELLS, NEW YORK. Shopping. Will accompany out-of-town pa- trons. No charge. Goods sent on approval. Ee orig a specialty. 26 W. 40th St., N. Y. Tel. 1324 Bryant. M. Ww. WIGHTMAN & CO., Shopping Serv- ice. Established 1895. Nothing too much trouble to please our customers. Send us your orders. 44 West 22d Street, New York City. NEW YORK’S newest ideas and wonderful bar- gainsdescribed weekly. Writeforfreeletter’* Beau- tiful Things I See.”’ Shopping free. IreneStephens, 156-5th Ave., New York. Tel. 822 Gramercy MRS. BERTHA E. L. OSTEYEE—General shopping. Fifteen years in South. Knows cus- toms, conditions. Personal moh Refer- ences. 305 W. 45th, N 730 Bryant. IRMA KORY, 366 5th a New York Shops for or with you without charge. Any- thing sent on approval. ateterences. Circulars Smart gowns a specialty. Tel. Greeley 2080. SHOP DIRECTLY AT THE MANUFACTUR- ers! Being a buyer for several specialty stores, I will personally conduct you to the Factories of the best makers of coats, suits or gowns in New York City You will there see advanced styles disple ayed on liv- ing models and make your purchase t wholesale yrices. For further Lao ulars, write or call on Corinne, 164 5th Av Gramercy 6762. MRS. CAROLINE PLOWS. Experience has taught me that certain shops excel in certain lines. I will shop for or with pen No a Goods sent on approval. 7 W 2d St.. . Social Stationer WEDDING STATIONERY SAMPLES and © Wedding Suggestions,"’ an interesting and authoritative booklet sent on request. The Crowell Co., 109 Orleans St., Springfield, Mass. HURD’S IDEAL BRIDGE WHIST PADS. Correct rules and count for advanced players. 1, 2 or 3 rubbers. Individual totals shown at a glance. Dempsey & Carroll, 431-5th Ave., ¥ NGRAVED WEDDING INVITATIONS 100 from Engraved Copper Plate with two sets of envelopes and 100 Engraved Calling Cards for the bride, for $7.50. Samples free. South- worth’s. Bridgeport, Conn WEDDING INVITATIONS, Announcements, Graduations, Visiting Cards and Monogram Sta- tionery. Prices moderate. Samples sent upon request F. Geibert Co., Engravers—Stationers, 1791 Gleason Ave., New York Specialty Shops 1. BECAUSE EVERY SOCIETY WOMAN | in New York who has seen Glebeas Flow- ers wants the same delicious odor. z Austro-Hungarian Co., 6 E. 30th St., N.Y. 2. We Have Imported Glebeas Inspiration. (His own perfume.) Rare and delicate. The imprisoned odors of the flowers. Austro-Hungarian Co., 6 E. 30th St., N. Y. 3. PETITE SAMPLE BOTTLE 10 CENTS Glebeas_ Inspiration, the new perfume, Violet, Rose and Lily of the Valley. Austro-Hungarian Co., 6 E. 30th., N. 4. $1 ABOTTLE (GLEBEAS INSPIRATION) Will last you for months Inspiration, Vio- let, Royal Rose and Merve 2 Lily Austro-Hungarian Co., 6 E. 30th St oi. MAYFAIR, Inc. Exclusive St ationery, Favors, Prizes, Gifts and Novelties. unusual toys, dolls, Jack Horner Pies 661 Fifth Avenue, at 52d Street, New York MAY HAGEN’S NOVELTY SHOP, 125 Clif- ton Ave., Lakewood, . Gowns, Blou anc Wraps, re ady to wear and to order. Neckwear, veils, ete. Novelties, useful and ornamental. Gowns from Hamill, New York Dinner Usual and Tea Room House fur- | REPETTI’S, near the Waldorf, isa delightful little | place,where the best of things to eat are served amid dainty surroundings at reasonable prices. Repetti, 30 West 34th Street. New York Toilet Preparations AURORA SPECIALTIES, Pate Grise for ag- ing- hands, Gardenia Cream & Bloom, Sachets de Flora for perfect skin. Colonial Dame Face Powder, made from cream to order, in 10 shades AURORA SPECIALTIES by mail, two dollars each. All five for $9.00. on request Aurora Specialties Co., Lowell, Mass A PERFECT SKIN TIGHTENER—DER- matine For flabbiness and wrinkles. Send 25c for sample bottle. Helene Swift's Beauty Creations, 168 W. 48th St. Tel. Bryant 5614 ZOBRIGHT, AMBERGLOSS, RUBIGLOSS Prof. Theo Mille rs luxurious preparations for the nails. Mignon Non-Cutting Manicure Set,$1 Theo. Miller Mfg. Co., Edison Co. Bldg., N_ Y¥ LA DELILAH LIQUID COLD CREAM, new discovery, unsurpassed {or sensitive skins. A natural be autifier. 50¢c-S1. Write Mrs. L. 4 Webber, Sole Agt., 408 W.129th St., Morn. 8420. MILLER’S ZOBRIGHT, the Nail that won't wash off imparts lasting and brilliant lustre. Edison Co. Bldg., N. Y. ANOLA HAIR AND SCALP TONIC eradi- cates dandruff, prevents hair from falling, pro- motes its growth and renders it soft and glossy. Bot. 50¢ prep'd. Nellie C. Stannard, Barton, Vt MARCHIONESS ROUGE gives a delicate text- ure, meaning complexion beauty. Not affected by perspiration Price, 50¢ Sample, 10c postpaid, Enamel Satin fin- Theo. Miller Mfg. Co., Marchioness Mfg. Co., 235 W. Superior Ave Cleveland, O ; : 7 Harper's Bazar, May, 1015 Booklets | Dept. A., | pleases every traveler by affording her the safety, roominess and instant access to all apparel which she enjoys in a closet at home. They THE MISSES HOFFMANN, 305 W. 45th St. ** Maids’ Outfits” for ladies’ maids, parlormaids, waitresses, chambermaids, nurses and cooks, We do shopping in all branches free of charge. really a portable closet and chiffonier combined. Beautiful catalog sent free. J. F. Parkhurst & Son Co., Home office, 11 Rowe St., Bangor, Me.; 161 Summer St., Boston; 325 Fifth Ave., N.Y WARDROBE TRUNKS—Owing to change in traveling plans our party will sacrifice several high-grade wardrobe trunks of different sizes; never used. Address, Box 531, Homer, N. Y WEEK END BOXES. The most complete and compact assortment of accessories in handsome case, $2.50. Parfumerie Riviera, 450 Fifth Ave Trousseaux NURSES OUTFITTING ASSOCIATION, 450 Fifth Ave., near 40th St - Y. Correct uniforms for women. Only s . alty house of its kind in the world. Write tor cate log B. H. THE UPTON-PAINE STUDIO, Salem, Mass. All sorts of origins a ides , Wiil decorate china in unusual designs. Lucky, shoe, kitchen shower suggestions, etc. Booklet NEWEST CONFECTION ~—-Hickoryisques & Pecanisques, latest delicacy_for Tango Teas. Gifts replacing bonbons Parcel Post, 65c Ginger Nuts, 35¢ box. Gertrude Ford, 247 W. 125th St., N. ¥ seX = Unusual Gifts WHY NOT ENGAGE in profitable business? Our liberal offer has established hundreds of special shops. Information on Sige gre Po ae Craft Guild, 307 Fifth Ave I Y. City. NEW FROM JAPAN. Hand-e mbroidered silk | negiiges fe 5; Oriental Crepe, .75. Boudoir | Jacket ampoo Jacket, “Booklet. Fitzabeth Allen, 347 Fifth Ave., N. Y MRS. COPELAND. Wedding gowns and smart trousseaux. Write for particulars 3: Fifth Avenue, New York. sd | used jewelry by the MODERN JEWELRY of wonderful designs and workmansaip created from your old, un- Artists of Little Brothers Community, Westerly, R. I. Write now WEDDING VEILS and wreaths to order from S15 up. Write for sketches and pou ars Mail orders a specialty Miss Allien, E 43d Street, New York. With Guiller UNIQUE HAND-WOVEN BAGS scarfs, rugs and baskets for sale at the New York Association for the Blind, 111 East 59th Street, New York YOUR FRIEND or hostess will enjoy a basket brimful of unusual delicacies from the Far St. An ideal week-end gift $3.50, 35 & $7.50 Booklet. Bertha Tanzer, 20 W. 30th St., N.Y SWEETS FROM THE ORIENT Deliciously different. ‘Chow Chow” fruit preserves in brandy. 16-o0z. glass jar, $1. Se nd 25e for sam- ple jar. Booklet Bertha Tanzer, 20 W. 30th os. B&B. SPRING HAT BOXES in miniature and con- taining 3 Sachets de Fleurs for corsage or gar- ters. Pink, blue, lavender,exquisitely perfumed, $1. Parfumerie Riviera, 450 Fifth Ave Zacuum Cleaner THE . en CLEANER SHOP,” 131 W. 42d St., N ‘lis 42 different kinds of Vac- uum C ame ae wholesale prices. Wonderful assortment. Special attention to m¢ ull orders. Send for complete price list N caiman ESS OMNIA ON Cablegrams: HA {| Iti Mi ti i WA i] An Artist's Impression of The Hyde Park Hotel at Night The HYDE PARK HOTEL | | Albert Gate, S. W. The Premier Family Hotel of London \ _ — HOTEL with an international reputation, distinguished for its elegance and re- finement, and patronized by Royalty and the aristocracy of Europe. Located in the most picturesque part of Hyde Park, with its public rooms and the majority of its private suites overlooking the famous Rotten Row and Ser- pentine Lake, the situation of the Hyde Park Hotel has a unique charm unequalled by any other hotel in London. As the visitor looks out upon the scenes of the Park from the upper windows of the hotel, he will find it difficult to realize that he is in the heart of London. \ The hotel claims with justice to be an ideal place for those who wish to reside in the " very centre of fashion, amid exclusive and refined surroundings. It contains 300 luxuri- ously furnished rooms, divided into various groups, every suite of apartments having its own bath and lavatory. The building is fireproof and provided with four iron staircases : outside of the building, so that every floor possesses four external exits, which is a con- : = : dition of safety not afforded by any other hotel in London. == TARIFF ON APPLICATION “‘Highcaste,’’ Knights, London | 22 Nm ij ' f q

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HILE the demand for the smaller waist has been great this season, there are many women who are un- decided in its adoption. In November, 1913, when low bust corsets were at the height of their popularity, when women of every conceivable weight, form and type would have nothing else, we sensed a change. In February, 1914, we announced four new models for summer and fall which were higher in the bust and smaller in the waist. These models which we introduced were adopted quite generally by American women 14 months before Paris or London suggested their use. This season is now seeing an almost universal adoption of the smaller waist models which originated with us. The figures of American women differ slightly from European women — yet the same American made Gossarp Corsets can be and are beingworn in Europe today, proving the fundamental we have always advocated-corsets are the power behind the throne in the style world. The small pinched waist of 1900 has gone we hope—never to return. The smaller waist of today is returning for an in- definite stay. It meets and supplies a very important re- quirement of American women. It helps to reduce when reduc- ing is necessary and it gives / the woman between 30 and 50 years of age, a perpetual lease on a youthful appearance, pro- viding she is correctly corseted. \ Tall heavy figure Having a keen interest in all that pertains to art, and living up to what women expect of us, we last year made another exhaustive study of standard books of art, which deal largely with woman’s figure. The ideal type never troubles us in designing corsets—it’s the woman who is just a little tall, just a trifle slender, just a bit heavy, who is slightly different from the ideal figure—she it is who makes our designing interesting. After many months of investi- gation, we found that women could almost always be classed in 9 groups. Of course, all of these groups have their further divi- Tall slender figure sions, but nine there are. On this page they are sketched. Your own figure is repre- \ sented in this group. Short heavy figure Now let us point out for the smaller waist, its function this season and its relation to all of the types shown. Youth represents one type of beauty—middle age another. The really charming figure has always been the natural figure, and the natural figure as shown in sculpture and painting, has a rather small waist—deli- cately rounded hips and a medium bust. Regardless of the figure type, the ultimate result must be based on the accepted standard of beauty—the standard familiar to the Egyptians 4000 B. C. or the Grecians 200 B. C. If you ever doubt the statement that the mature fig- ure is the accepted standard, ask any painter, etcher, sculptor or designer. Look at his works of the nude figure—look at your own copy of Venus de Milo. This season as never before women will adopt the natural figure line. You can see our conception of this beautiful type, corseted, on this page. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 Having Been Showered with Questions about Its Return, an Authoritative Answer including all Figure Types is Welcomed Our reason for designing so many different corsets and brassieres is to give every woman her choice of the route, back to this ideal type. We want her to be able to discount her age from 5 to 15 years by the ap- pearance of her figure. Today hun- dreds of thousands of Gossarp wearers are doing this very thing. Now the relation of the small waist to the nine distinct types, also its relation to your type. First is the tall heavy figure and there are many such. Their charm is not exceeded by any other type, if they study a few simple rules. High heeled shoes should never be worn, neither should short skirts unless the ankle is small. Dark shoes always. Dark hosiery. Her Short slender figure Full Bust Figure corset should be of a coutil or broche material -long in the skirt—bust gores low and the bust just supported. A tricot brassiere worn next to the flesh will reduce the bust from 2 to 5 inches. ‘The corset should not be fitted small. If it is, the charm of freedom is lost. The smaller waist and well confined thighs make her stately. Full Hip Figure Next, the tall slender. She, too, must exercise the same care—medium height heels—dark hosiery—high neck waist and dresses—full waists and fancy brassieres with ruffles or light pads. The use of two china silk pads in front of the thigh bones, and a small pad in lower back gives her a supple look from the waist down. The smaller waist suggests a fuller figure on this type, which is the result desired. THE SMALLER WAIST CORSET EXPLAINS— The short heavy figure wants height. High heels,hats with shoot- ing feathers or ribbons, straight hips, bust just supported and the smaller waist. Stripes help to give height effects, so do high waist lines. The present vogue of 1830 favors somewhat the short, stout woman. The short slender woman has many corset troubles. She must be chic always. The small waist is in her favor. She can overcome slenderness just as the tall slender woman by using three small pads and a special brassiere. She should not accentuate her small waist— just let it be known. She should wear colors—chosen carefully to suit her complexion and hair. High boots —oxfords—fancy hosiery—novelties of almost any kind become her. She can be just as attractive as she likes. Her corseting is important—very important. The woman with full bust, heavy shoulders, full diaphragm and small from waist line down, needs a tricot flesh fitted brassiere and a corset that confines the bust and upper back, and flesh over diaphragm. A special model is made for this type. Plain waists —tailored suits—low or high necks, plain sleeves, medium hats and not too straight a hip line give this type a very distinctive appearance. Her opposite, with full hips and thighs, worries more about her figure than the other type. She should not wear the small waist corset as it is worn by others. Her corset should be of coutil or silk broche, rather heavily boned and with a long skirt. Let some of the ex- cessive weight be gently, yet firmly, pushed into the waist and some be forced down. In some models we reduce at the first fitting from 3 to 6 inches on the hip measurement. A high waist line is desirable. The long fullskirts of this season favor her greatly. If the bust is small, the corset should be high. This assists to a fuller appearance. Short Waist Figure x ~) The short waisted woman, whether she be tall, medium or / short, must try for one result—the appearance of a long waist. ‘The high waist line of this season gives her an opportunity to appear like the ideal figure. The waist should ) not be made too small. Almost any ‘ vogue in hats, shoes, hosiery, suits | or dresses can be worn by her. The big thought is to keep the waist line long. Special GossarD models are made for this type. The last of the special types is not / so common as it was when the Kan- garoo walk was in—yet the swayed back figure is here. We know, be- cause we fit thousands of them. A determination to stand not quite so erect, and the careful fitting of a rather high back corset will work a great change. The absence of lacing in the back helps this figure type greatly. A small pad is used very often in the lower center back—and very successfully too. Swayed Back Figure The ideal figure offers but little difficulty in corset designing and fitting. ‘The possessor of such a figure should, however, be equally careful in the selection of her corset. By birth she is fortunate, but by careless corseting she can be very unhappy. To havea naturally good figure does not give one the license to neglect it. The ideal type can wear outer garments of almost any vogue—her height, color, weight and personal inclina- tion being the only things to consider. Is the small waist back to stay? Yes, emphatically, yes. Can every figure type wear the smaller waist corset? If she is intelligently corseted. Where can you be corseted to all of the Gossarp Corsets mentioned in this article——at the Olmstead Corset Co., The Bonwit-Teller Co., James McCreery Co., Best & Co., and James McCutcheon in New York. Brooklyn, at Abraham & Straus. London, at Marshall & Snelgrove, Ltd. In Sydney, Australia, Farmer & Co., Ltd. In Paris, at Galeries Lafayette, Aux Trois Quartiers. In Chicago, in Gossard Stores, 37 S. State St., 3108S. Michigan Ave. and 64 E. Madison St. and in practi- cally every town and city in North America, South America and Australia. The H. W. Gossard Co., Chicago, U. S. A., Largest Makers of Fine Corsets,

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Harper's Bazar, May, rors A— a = Fifth Avenue Wadison Avenue Smocked Dress of colored ues: 65 (2 to 5 years). ...-.-- B—Suit of colored linen, with smocked waist of white dimity (2 to 5 years) 6.00 Dress of white French linen (6 to 7 85 14 years) Suit of blue linen (3 to 8 years) - . Blue Straw Hat Frock of white net (2 to 4 years) Suit of white linen (3 to 8 years) White Panama Hat 3.75 . 3.90 oe 5.50 4.00 B. Altman & Ca. , nt eae 1-5 y ox Pisa yA t H & : he | —~F | | ° oo ' ye : | ae } J - -_ /} | MAY-DAY IN CHILD-LAND 34th and 35th Streets jew Work G—Norfolk Suit of Palm eee 75 cloth (8 to 15 years) Leghorn Hat Dress of colored chambray (8 to 16 years). Smocked Suit; blouse of white dimity, trousers of white rep (3 to 6 years) White Straw Hat Norfolk Blouse Dress of pongee (8 to 14 years) Surplice Dress of white organdie (6 to 14 years) . . . 5.00 4.75 5.50 4.00 9.75 7.75

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That Goodwin Feeling of Complete Satisfaction, Comfort, Pleasure, Exhilaration and the knowledge that the very utmost has been made of her natural figure—a de- A lightful feeling of being per- fectly corseted—is possessed by the wearer of a corset. If you have never worn one, write to us and we will cither tell you where you can be scientifically and correctly fitted to a Goodwin corset in your own city or send you full particulars, so you can have the correct model submitted for your When considering “*My hairdresser,”’ that is even better than Nestlé The husband, thus addressed, naturally would like his also wishes his wife to avoid trouble and annoyance. man, trained by experience, he knows that it requires more the and a canvas to paint a Rembrandt, or more than a few knives, some antiseptic and He knows that long theoretical and practical Nestlé treatment. the exception of the new growth near the roots (about !¢ inch per month.) A, or call and see our living models and let Mr. LONDON: 15 months later. naturally grown curls by Nestlé treatment. The PERMANENT 13 months old, born straight. NESTLE HAIR WAVE This process and implements are patented in the U.S. A. an operating-table to cut an appendix. training and deep knowledge are required to handle these tools skilfully. knows that, just because a person possesses implements and has an idea how Nestlé- Waving may be done, such a person should not be allowed to tamper with one of his wife’s most valuable possessions He'll tell his wife: **Go to the man that knows—not to the man with some tools.”’ with the element of luck. the element of luck does not enter. physical development of the hair, and the first person to define th hair production, Mr. Nestlé is at the head of the famous Nestlé 1906 over 30,000 heads of hair were Nestlé waved. medical authorities have favorably commented upon Mr. Nestlés work, and by virtue of his experience he is the accredited Hairwaver of several European Royal Families. London, where since By the Nestlé Process straight hair is made naturally wavy in one from one to two hours i No pain, irritation or possible danger to scalp, head or hair can result from the Nestlé-waved hair is guaranteed to remain naturally wavy. with for instructive illustrated booklet ) Nestlé explain to you why his method is so very successful. ( z ‘* Permanent Hairwaving, confer on this subject with their husbands. they will say, her hair. A careful test is made before a fee Mothers of Young Children Sit", ftrvght: Rair Nestlé’s home treatment *‘ Nestol’’ to grow naturally wavy hair out of the roots. chemicals are used. Merely the laws of nacure are followed, and no This Home treatment, which does not require more time than the usual daily toilet, must therefore be absolutely harmless. The ** t head, whether or not there is a trace of natural curl. Nestol”’ treatment is successful on any young child’s Complete instructions and all necessaries for the *‘Nestol"’ treatment are sent on receipt of $2.50 (no further expense). Cc. NESTLE & CO. 18 EAST 46TH STREET, Opposite the Ritz-Cariton. Phone, Murray Hill 2910. 48 South Moulton Street. BERLIN: 60 Nirnberger Strasse. straight-haired ladies will generally “told me about it. He says he has bought a machine , and he offers to do my head at a greatly reduced fee.”’ i fe to save money, but he As a business or professional paint, a few brushes He also Permanent Hairwaving is not a matter of machines or formule, except if combined In treatments by Mr. Nestlé and his qualified assistants, Recognized as the foremost scientist in the laws of human é establishments in Many sitting, last- is accepted. Write NEW YORK PARIS: 45 Boulevard Haussmann. inspection. If you have hesitated on account of the price, investigate the new Goodwin corset at $3.5 , Prices $3.50 up according to ma- terial and model. log V showing photo- Corsets of Every Description 373 Fifth Avenue, New York BOSTON 687 Boylston Street KANSAS CITY Waldheim Bldg. | + PHILADELPHIA 1120 Walnut St. SAN FRANCISCO 330 Sutter St. = E CHICAGD 57 £. Madison St. LOS ANGELES 220. Sth St. = é S. H. CAMP & COMPANY, Wholesale ; Jacksoa, Michigan Goodwin | — ALL YOUR ARRANGEMENTS CAN BE MADE HERE WITHOUT CHARGE AND WITHOUT TIRESOME DETAILS OR DELAY 389 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK Town @ Country Est. 1846 i er Let TOWN & COUNTRY HOTEL AND TRAVEL BUREAU supply you with transportation schedules, hotel rates and com- * plete information covering your itinerary, whether here or abroad, Besides the leading Summer and Winter Pleasure Resorts, we have at hand complete information about Health Resorts in all sections of the country—their climate, advantages offered by the treatment of their waters, and the cost of transportation and accommodation. Either correspondence or a personal visit will receive prompt and satisfactory service. Bureau Est. 1903 | In the MAY SCRIBNER By Edith Wharton Paris in War Time —The Look of Paris Gen’! George W. Goethals’s own story of The Build- ing of the Panama Canal. 4 . French Memories of Eighteenth-Century America, by Charles H. Sherrill. The early days of | Yale, Harvard, Brown, and Princeton, the old schoolmasters, yellow journalism of the day, | election scenes. Illustrated. T ‘ ° The New Canadian National Transconti- ‘nental Railway, by Dun- can MacPherson. The Grand Trunk Pacific Railway that leads across the Rockies, British Co- lumbia, Ontario, Manitoba. Illustrated. x 7 The Freelands, John Galsworthy’s greatest novel. A Brother of the Angle, by Willis Boyd Allen. The pleasures of fish- ing and of the life in the open. | Illustrated by A. B. Frost. Short Stories you will read and remember: '“Baytop,” by Armistead C. Gordon, author of “Maje.” A story of Uncle Jonas, Ommirandy, and an old cavalry horse who hadn’t forgotten commands.— “Sinews of War,” by Annie Eliot Trum- bull. The story of two beautiful horses, Hans and Gretel, of the Austrian Tyrol, and of how they fared in the great war. —‘Middle Age,” by Alice Duer Miller. A story of the days when life is hard to begin again. Inthe Field of Art: An article on the work of the great Spanish painter Ignacio Zuloaga, with a frontispiece, reproduced in colors, of his famous “Gypsy Dancer : in Toreador Costume.” Subscriptions to Scribner’s Magazine may be- gin with any number. The subscription price is $3.00 a year. Remittances by draft, express or postal money order, or in currency if sent by registered mail. No extra charge for Canadian postage. For other countries in the postal union single subscriptions $4.00. CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS Fifth Avenue at 48th Street NEW YORK

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Paris 42 Rue de Paradis BONWIT TELLER &.CO. She Specially Shop of Originalions 13th and Chestnut Sts. Philadelphia FIFTH AVENUE, at 38th St., NEW YORK WOMEN’S SUMMER BLOUSES Types that are Different, with the Chic and Cachet of the Paris Blouse-Maker ‘““MINET”’ Please ‘MINET’ “RABAT” “FRAISE”’’—Striped handkerchief-linen blouse, large double white frills, edged with stripes. White ground, with brown, green, blue, black, OP CUOMUE SURGES 6a a 6d scape bsg mis oy op woe’ 5.50 *“*FACILE’’—“ Bontell"’ shirt of linen, in white only. Collar may ee ke a en “RABAT’’—Cotton voile blouse, in flesh pink, with white edgings and frills. Daintily hemstitched.. . P gsi out wie! 5 xs *““ROULER’’—Cotton voile blouse, in flesh pink and white, with cross rows of hemstitching at collar, sleeves and cuffs inleky a3 2.00 “JABOT’’— Cotton voile blouse, in flesh pink or white. Large double revers and frills, black pendant ribbons drawn through revers.....2.50 Same model in crepe de chine. . .5.50 Cotton voile blouse, with large embroidered dots at yoke, front tucked and hemstitched. Collar may be worn high or low. In flesh pink and white... **TOUJOURS” with soft rolling sport-collar, rows of draw-stitching at front, and cuffs in 4 Li, flesh pink or white..... es 2.00 } © is Stale color wanted in ordering FUR STORAGE—Dry cold air vault on premises, equipped with every modern device and appointment for the proper care of furs. Furs stored and remodeled at moderate cost. . 2.00 Cotton voile blouse, at “ oA . = size and “ROU LER” “JABOT” Harper's Bazar, May 1015

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Model 947 A recent conception reflect- ing the dainty curve at waist, slightly higher bust and pretty, flat back. In broche at $8. Same model in white coutil at $5.

h.. Now lA IN < 9 AYR) . yy 4 G 3 « a sry \ho \” \ ( bl & =) oi Lr | «/¢ YY yy eR Mh 2: 3) A 2) ‘ 4 ' JAE)? Ie YG JAY Ace [Cab a. el? Cy SD) j= = ar) ies | / a Ge, cal , wil - G ee

Your DREAM ComeE TRUE Have you never fancied how your form would appear, glo- rifled and idealized by some great artist ? (This is essentiall)) what hap- pens when you put on a creation by the artist-designers of the ultra-fashionable on lon CORSETS Y Back Lace or Front Lace

Their interpretation of your individuality is intense and vivid. ‘Their dominance in matters of style is unquestioned. Especially you should study the new BON TON models for wear now. ‘They are im- bued with the style concepts of the hour. Our beautiful new catalog mailed free to any address upon request. Ask YOUR Dealer From *3 up to $05 REMEMBER—It pays YOU to buy corsets that are trade marked and nationally advertised because they are sold at uniform prices and YOUR satisfaction is guaranteed. ROYAL WORCESTER CORSET Co. Manufacturers, Worcester, Mass. Also makers of the famous ROYAL WORCESTER corsets at $1 to $3.

Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

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A cocktail tray, of English wicker, round, oval, or oblong in shape, sturdy and light-weight, with white enamel or antique gold finish; the botiom is of dainty 7, cretonne-under-glass, the handles and rack are of strong wicker, the latter holding firmly in place six engraved crystal glasses, complete. $8.75 a tats SORIA SL in arch-enemy lo! e “unanswered letter,” this unique desk set of exquisite glazed calfskin in blue, purple, grey, and tan or cross grain’d morocco in pink and green, witi a delicate border of French gilt-tooling throughout, the linings and bases of bookbinder’s cloth. Comprising a semi- circular blotter-pad, three-compariment stationery rack, elastic band box with satin lining, four-compartment stamp 4 box, calendar in concave frame, and /.and blotter, complete. $34.00 eR Inkstand, of crystal and nickel, with pen-grooves about center. $2.00. Monogram on ink-well lid, made to order, heavy gold plate, extra, $3.00 ; j ; me nent ae _— es The bride shall “travel and be at home” with this filted Vfadison bag of black grained hide leather. The base is ample, tapering towards the top; it ts lined with moreen, and leather loop-pockets contain the following fillings in ivory-white celluloid: hair brush, comb, mirror, clothes brush, hairpin box, soap box, two salve boxes, powder box, holder containing tooth and nail brushes, tooth- powder box, two glass scent bottles, buffer, nail file, button hook and scissors. Size 14 inches, complete. $34.50 Engraving fittings in colors to match lining, each letter 10¢. Monogram on bag, in gold plate, to order, in various designs, from $2.00 1) AN ene Croan 404 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK 145 Tremont St. BOSTON ae | 89 Regent St. 253 Broadway f LONDON, W. NEW YORK [ - . . ae . ~ . ccc mare ie ah EL . he he Harper's Bazar, May, rors Liquid testimonials of affection are readily drawn up and put down with the aid of this high-ball set. The tray is of choicest mahogany on rubber-padded feet, with a center covering of removable glass; the rack is of silver plate and holds well in place six tall crystal high- ball glasses, one liquor bottle with silver mounted stopper and rim, and a long stirring-spoon. 3 inches, complete. basket of finely woven tan English wicker, with rim of antique brown full lining to diameter 12°4 inches, height 1334 inches. grams of two or more initials, made up in heavy gold plate, 41% inches high. $5.50 ABLISHED ja AR a ke Z TRADE MARS ACTuaL MAKER” “Love, Honor and --be Gay” Size19 x 13% $36.00 T is at this season that many a man is asked if he is “married and single, or a bachelor?”—and many a father is giving his daughter away in marriage “with the author's compliments.” We are Wedding Philan- thropists, and undertake to suggest suitable gifts for cou- ples, old and young, rich and poor, learned and unlearned, and particularly for that Made for waste, and intended for use, and taking more than unfortunate couple who a mere “scrap of paper,” —this “have everything. with nothing left to desire. leather and match; top These couples may be con- sidering the future, must think of the present. $8.00. Mono- but you A genuine tribute to the bride’s domesticity and “‘hearth-rug vir- tues” —this most complete and commodious basket for sewing, knit- ting, crocheting, darning and every needle-art. The body is of im- maculate white enamel wicker, and takes ample working materials. The cover and rim at top and bottom are of exquisite glazed mo- rocco leather in excellent colors; the full lining is of s irred satin to match. The removable tray is satin-covered and contains: eighteen spools of thread, two thimbles, two pincushions, two pair Scissors, two bodkins, a stiletto, bution hook, knife, crochet and darning needles, and two compartments for buttons, hooks and eyes. The inside cover, of satin, is fitted with: nine packages of various-sized needles, two hem pressers, three crochet needles, a silk holder, scts- sors, and needle book. $33.50 wet hs a Sat ° 5 RR APTI FES OE TP —s * EL AEE, FEMS i

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ERY Od )) ao ae ete Un orA hh RoR Youthgiving and jaunty as a Norfolk, yet lacking its informality, this clever tailleur is equally appropriate for the spring and summer days in townand for traveling—the new silhouette, 032 giving to it both chic and comfort. : _ Stein 2 Blaine Ladies Tailors and Funiers 4i/ 8-10 West 36th St. New York City the simple lines, and the serviceable material far | Oye aan nll ames. rE PeeTSSE! de hit iH if OUEP ETE BaCteCEOaatieat LiL HAO RRR SHS Cal a eg tal he att tf | George Kremer Originator of the harmless “Permanent Hair Wave” Steaming Device My new invention and vast experience enables me to wave any shade and quality of hair, guaranteed to last from six months toone year and to be absolutely harmless. There are six different sizes of waves which can be successfully applied to the finest and coarsest of hair. The only establishment averaging ten or more waves a day. Personal attention given each client. Expert attendants for Hairdressing, Scalp and Facial Treatment, Hair C oloring, Manicuring, etc. | Fox Exclusive and individual styles in first quality hair goods. ‘ter George Kremer, Three West Forty-second St., N. Y.C. Reduced Illustration from The House Beautiful arranged, well decorated anc best fitted to bring you health and happiness will be your house beautiful. It is, therefore, the aim of The House Beautiful to give to its subscribers and readers, through its correspondence de- partments, individual and expert advice on all subjects deal- ing with the house and grounds. There are now estab- lished departments of Architecture, The Inside of the House, (dealing with the practical, scientific problems) Interior Dec- oration, House Lighting, Garden and Orchard, and Landscape Architecture. The Shopping Guide aims to keep its readers well informed in regard to what is in the shops and to bring to their attention rare articles of furniture or other objects of value which are for sale privately. Let The House Beautiful save you time and expense. We publish every month pictures, floor plans and descriptions of successful small houses from all sections of the country. The following interesting subjects will be treated in the May issue: A Pennsylvania Brick House House by the Ocean The Tent Caterpillar Reflections of a Housewife. The House Roof The Basement of the House In Forsythia Time. Nine Months for One Dollar The yearly subscription price is $2.00. But to introduce THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL to new readers, we will send you the magazine for nine months, for $1.00, beginning with the current issue, and also make you a present of THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL Portfolio of Interior Decoration. The Portfolio is a collection of color plates picturing and describing rooms which are unusually successful in their decoration and furnishing. Send This Coupen Today ‘ie home which is practical, individual, scientifically late THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL "HB. 5-15 3 Park Street, Boston, Massachusetts GENTLEMEN—For the enclosed $1.00 send me ycur Portfolio of Interior Deco- ration and The House Beautiful for nine months, beginning..................44% Yours very truly, Ee ee

Page 19

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Har per's Bazar, May, 1915

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CROSSLIGHTS At the Spring Exhibition of the National Academy of Design, New York FROM THE PAINTING BY WILLIAM SERGEANT KENDALL Harper's Bazar, May, 10 16

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By the Simmering Samovar By LADY RANDOLPH CHUSRCHiIL SKETCHED FROM LIFE ESPECIALLY FOR HARPER'S BAZAR BY ERNEST S. KLEMPNER NX Drewnmr ¥ : t YS \ LC AVAG Gn a ees A N y, rc Poverty, once a crime, is now a virtue to be assumed, if not possessed. Lady Randolph Churchill, writing exclusively for Harper’s Bazar, tells how caste distinction is being re- placed by a new brotherhood born of the stern exigencies of war. HAT lessons this war is teaching us! And not the least is the necessity for thrift, at best an unpopular virtue. There is no doubt that before the war here in England, we were getting into a recklessness of expenditure which had advanced in an amazing fashion the last twenty years. Only a year or two ago, Mrs. Asquith, the Prime Minister’s wife, as a witness in a court of law, was obliged to admit that extravagance was more likely to be an “‘open sesame” than a barrier to society. To go a little further back, in the seventies and eighties a young couple with social aspirations thought £2,000 a year, or thereabouts, ample income to marry on, whereas in this twentieth century few of the jeunesse dorée would venture to live on what they would consider such a miserable pittance. I remember the late millionaire, Mr. James R. Keene, telling me that what struck him the most on his visits to England was the number of people who had £4,000 or £5,000 a year and how extremely well every one lived, but he did not realize that in so-called “society”? extravagance and extravagant ideas had arrived at such a pitch that very few marriages took place. But this war is revolutionising everything; we are becoming more simple, primitive in fact, and it is no longer thought a crime to be poor. The present crisis has given, moreover, a wonderful stimulus to the marriage market. Fired by the thought of the “girl he is leaving behind him,” the young sol- dier of to-day, regardless of pounds, shillings and pence, rushes into matrimony before going off to the front, or while at home on a few days’ leave from the trenches. That everything will be changed when this great struggle is over is a certainty, and we shall surely resort to a simpler mode of life which will last for, at least, a generation or two. For the more virile a nation becomes, the more she seeks for, and asks for, simplicity and truth. All the shallow, stupid, snobbish habits, which were beginning to blot out our horizon, are vanishing like mists before the sun. In France the simple life is still more the order of the day. Even in the richest families, establish- ments have been reduced to two maid servants-and only two dishes suffice for dinner. Some French Harper's Bazar, May, tors people have even gone so far as to have a cold buffet, consisting of the plainest and most homely food, laid out in the dining-room, at which the household generally has to help itself, thereby dispensing with all service. Added to this, the Governor of Paris has forbidden all music in public, and so, in the once gay city, there is a chastening of the body and soul which, to say the least, must be depressing. English people, who are supposed to take their pleasures sadly, are taking their trials with a much lighter heart. In London our theatres and concerts are crowded. . . . But, then, we have not got the enemy entrenched at Reading which is the equal distance of Soissons from Paris; and we do not dwell on air raids as, up to now, they have proved from the strategic standpoint to be too futile to worry us. The pinch of war The most extravagant are undoubtedly altering their ways. Take the matter of dress. Even the women who are rich enough not to feel appreciably the pinch of war, do not—I might even say dare not indulge in buying new frocks and _ furbelows. To be dressed in the latest fashion is not to be in the right note. look too smart argues too much thought of oneself. If, perchance, a_ frivolous one appears in a new dress, she invariably apolo- gises for it. ‘I was absolutely in rags,’ or “This is only a wretched little garment my maid has run up for me.” Then, again, in the matter of food and of servants, everything is changed. “‘Jeames de la Pluche”’ has gone, and Mary Ann is to the fore with her trim cap and apron. Nowadays, instead of the cere- monious written invitation to dinner, a message generally comes by telephone “‘ Do come and dine. But hope you won’t mind! Only war fare!’’ Most of the powdered flunkeys, so dear to the heart of Mayfair and Belgravia, have thrown off the badge of servitude and in enlisting have found their man- hood. What a leveler is Khaki! The sloping-shouldered shifty-eyed footman returns after six weeks’ or two months’ training with a straight back and a bold eye to take leave before going to the Front, and you grasp him by the hand and wish him “God speed,” and think him more than an equal. To help him 17 and his like, to get him comforts when in the trenches and aid when he returns, perhaps a battered wreck of humanity, you feel you would, if necessary, wear the same garment until the war was over, like Isa- bella of Austria, who while besieging Ostend, oddly enough, took an oath that she would not change her linen until the town was taken. Evidently women in olden days thought this a most efficacious con tribution to the war, as the same story is told of Isabella of Castile at the siege of Granada. With diminishing incomes and an increasing cost [ living, people are forced to retrench. To the natural “ pincher”’ this is a boon, and he takes every advantage of it. One such rich man was asked the other day what he was contributing to the war. Taken aback, after a moment’s hesitation he said, “Well, I've put all my servants on half wages.” But on the other hand, a contemporary justly points out that we owe something to extravagance, for thrift and adventure seldom go hand in hand, and those who have been driven by empty pockets out of this country to try their luck at the ends of the earth have made the best of colonists. There are few topics of social controversy more frequent than the relative extravagance of men and women, and neither sex will ever give in as to which should claim the supremacy. “Just consider what you spend on dress,” says the man. ‘‘ What about your sport?” retorts the fair one. “Think how much you fritter away in things you do not need,” he reminds her. ‘‘ Think of the-sums you lose gam- bling,”’ she replies, and so on, ad infinitum. There is no doubt that money made by the “sweat of the brow” is not usually squandered. But as the majority of women do not make money, they naturally have a greater capacity for spending it. However, no rule can be laid down; it is a matter of temperament and habit. Women are as capable of as great self-denial as men, but their bringing up is different and, not having the responsibility of money, they are content in many cases to have merely the spending of an allowance which is often elastic. The following definition of economy as practised by both sexes may be true, if not flatter- ing. ‘A man will pay a dollar for a fifty cent thing that he wants, and a woman will pay fifty cents for a dollar thing that she does not want.”

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Concerning Reno’s Great Divide; high society; royal gymnastics; Fifth Avenue horrors; contemporary manners; the love season and a tip from a Queen, here, informally, is a conversazione on The RESIDENT WILSON’S recent remarks about “the amusing airs of high society” are of historic interest. But, without vio- lating the laws of neutrality, one may won- der what is the “high society” of which he deigns to speak. The highest society is composed of aviators. In the present condition of things, Mr. Wilson can hardly refer to them. Coming down a bit, there are royal circles. Our personal excursions into these regions have been the reverse of numerous, yet, during them, we discovered nothing more airy than the court atmosphere which, as all the world is aware, consists in appearing very much pleased with everybody and everything. But as there are no royal circles hereabouts—and presently there may be fewer elsewhere—perhaps it was the society of the White House to which Mr. Wilson referred. We say pe rhaps because, owing to the abysses of our ignorance, we are occasionally in doubt as to what he means. And yet, come to think of it, it may be that it was New York society which he had in mind. In that case it would be instructive to learn just where he was so much amused at its airs. Concerning Broadway and the Tenderloin generally, we know even less than we do of court circles, and consequently we cannot tell what Mr. Wilson may have encountered in high society there. But in upper Fifth Avenue, where the usuz al air is the millionaire, we doubt if Mr. Wilson could have found any other variety than that which comes of informality, the absence of arrogance and a dislike for heavy remarks. We do not, of course, presume to qualify Mr. Wilson’s remarks as heavy. Quite the contrary. For the chief executive of a great nation, they are exceptionally light. Bolting princesses In spite of the war or, it may be, inflamed by it, another Italian princess is reported to have eloped. Details are lacking. Probably they were censored. That we regret. Elopements that occur among the middle classes, people of gentility necessarily ignore. But given a bolting princess, and details, however prodigal, never suflice. The “genteeler” you are, the more you want, and be- fore the war you got them. For all of which we may thank our stars, though in particular that American girl who executed a fugue with a fiddler. Her little adventure was rather criticized at the time on the ground that it threatened to lessen the demand tor cis-Atlantic heiresses. The world is so censorious! Yet the girl, after taking a prince for better or worse had but chosen the latter. That was all there was to it, except the result. For Clara Ward, formerly of Detroit and then of Chimay, succeeded to her own surprise and to ours in setting a fashion. Before the public had fully caught the lilt of the capriccio, the Infanta E lvire eloped with a painter. Presently Louise of Bel- gium took the bit in her teeth and, along with her, her husband’s equerry. Afterward, Louise of Saxony departed with her children’s tutor. Sub- sequently the Princess of Monaco walked off with a composer. These instances are instructive. Of course, since Helen of Troy began it, there always have been elopements. But it is only within recent years that ladies have taken to kicking over thrones. Formerly such gymnastics were unimagined. Mo- tives were similar, but manners were different. There was less hurrah and more circumlocution. It is true that Louise of Belgium was declared insane. Yet it is, perhaps, also true that if all bolting were similarly treated, the pring esses asylums would have to be enlarged. The noose matrimonial Elopements rhyme with divorce, and divorce is just like prosperity: some people cannot stand it, others never get the chance. Nevada’s recent change of heart in the matter is consequently of interest, though hereabouts, given the lawyers and their fees, any one can be on and off with the noose matrimonial with an ease which Nevada at her best and at her worst never knew. Plenty of our young bloods have tried it with the highly honour- able object of marrying again. But though the object is honourable, yet to moralists, among whom we would like to count ourselves, the result is not suited to our climate and therefore wrong. In a Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 Way By E DGAR temperate climate, and ours is that when it does not happen to be the reverse, there are, relatively speaking, as many women as men. But in coun- tries in which the climate is enervating, there is alway: a generous supersufliciency of girls. A man gets more than his share. It is the climate that he has to thank. Ours is not of that kind. Though at afternoon affairs we have occasionally had cause to think otherwise and enjoyed it very much. Even so, it is only a cormorant who would presume to confuse the possibilities of a tea party with the comforts of home. Besides which, in this section of the planet, it has long since been demonstrated that one wife is as good as a feast. There is much that might be added, but we stop right here. Discretion is the better part of journalism and of matrimony, too. Fifth avenue inns We are not yet in the firing line, but some of the Fifth Avenue inns ought to be. Among them they are putting gastronomy into bankruptcy. Well, bankruptcy has been rather fashionable recently. But time was when hereabouts there were places in plenty in which one could dine, not precisely perhaps on the Swinburnian menu of wit for meat and song for wine, but at least, as the phrase goes, “like a gentleman.” Nowadays it is the devil’s own job to find a restaurant in which you are not robbed and poisoned. It is true, the cost of every- thing has gone up except the price of life; but that is hardly a reason to die in a dining-room if only from sheer boredom at the emphatic platitudes of the bill of fare. For dining is an interesting custom and one not likely to go by the board. It is not only interesting, it is ancient. In an old history it is written that when the Khan of Tartary had dined, a herald announced that such princes as wished were permitted to eat. ‘That was consider- ate, but eat what? ‘Tenderloins of giraffe, perhaps; breasts of parrot; suprémes of flamingo, and the bones of zebras deviled. Obviously it would be captious and even Barnumesque to expect such colourful primeurs to-night. For we live in an age that is barbarous when it is not philistine, one in which a head waiter can ask whether everything has been satisfactory and on being told that every- thing is rotten will reply that nobody else has complained and thereby insinuate that you are an imbecile and a liar. For hereabouts, nowadays, that is what you get, in addition to food that is not fit to set before convicts and served, too, at prices that would frighten a pirate. The bear garden Here is another kettle of fish. The head waiter’s airs and graces are aped by every underling in the establishment. Personally while we like to believe in the equality of man, yet we are always grateful when subordinates treat us as their inferior. It adds to our humility. Besides, when in London, we have found it very tedious to be overwhelmed with thanks if we so much as turned around. But between the two extremes there ought to be a happy medium, and mighty happy we may all be when we get it. Meanwhile the rudeness diffused hereabouts forms a curious study. For this rudeness is not a restaurant specialty, it has become a national trait. Yet how? ‘The graces of colonial New York were exceeded only by Southern gen- tility. Morals, indeed, our forefathers may not have held in the same high esteem that we hold them, and no doubt money with them was equally scarce. But in manner they were gallant and in costume superb. The Puritans left rather more to be desired. There was no waste of sugar in their crab-apple sauce. Yet at least they were not ruffians. It is not from them that contempo- raneous horrors proceed. Nor from the Indians. Nor from the Dutch. With the loftiness of the former Cooper bored us inhumanly, and with the urbanity of the latter Irving bored us still more. Rudeness, therefore, we do not derive from any of these, and in search of putative parents a careless psychology might attribute it indifferently to busi- ness cares and demon cars. People diabolically propelled lack the time to be civil, and those past whom they shoot are ey unable to requite their absence of salaams. Parallelly, those whose vocation is commercial must be full of aggress- 18 of The SALTUS World iveness and push. Multiply these conditions, as continuously they are being multiplied, and the result you find reflected in Fifth Avenue inns. The perfume of Eros Now here we are in the thick of it. This is the season when the young man’s fancy, and the old maid’s also, lightly turns, and here is Dr. Lucka, whom we never met before and whom already we are anxious to avoid, to tell us all about it. Ina fat book entitled “Eros,’’ Dr. Lucka talks so learnedly on the subject that his ignorance of it must be colossal. For love is not, what he has made it, a laborious topic, it is a game and a very pretty one, too, only when you are old enough io play it properly, you are too old to play it at all. In which respect it is inferior to golf. But, other- wise, as to what it really is, sportsmen differ. One of them defined it as /’égoisme ad deux, a phrase which we would be glad to translate if only we could. Another said that it is the affection of somebody else. Anybody can understand that, though perhaps not everybody can appreciate it. Besides, as a definition, it lacks precision. To describe love as the privilege mutually accorded by two people of causing each other a great deal of discomfort is nearer the mark. Yet to say that it is the marvel of not being bored by the party of the second part is, perhaps, nearer still. On the other hand, to say that love is the poetry of the senses sounds prosy. To say that it is to be two and yet but one sounds calculating. To say that it is the reduction of the universe to a single being is like giving a butterfly a Latin name. Yet love is all these things and more besides. For love is a pathological condition superinduced by a fer- mentation of the molecules of the imagination, and our own imagination, we may add, Dr. Lucka has left quite undisturbed. Purple spiders I’rom love to a duck of a gown the transition is reasonable and, in the present indigence of fashion, we would like to recommend one that was intro- duced by a Hova royal, the last Queen of Mada- gascar. This lady, after being deposed and pen- sioned by the French government, resided for a while in Paris where she was addressed not as Ma’am, or even as Majesty, but, in accordance with the more gracious etiquette of the Hova court, as Your Fragrance. And certainly she looked it, from the ‘clothes- line point of view that is, for otherwise she resembled nothing so much as a thoroughly respectable upper housemaid. But her gown was a wonder. Made of gossamer derived from a hairy, obese, pink-eyed, purple spider—the aranea Limuria to be exact—it was as immaterial as a moonbeam, luminous as the zodiac, the tri- umph of art, poetry, exoticism and the rue de la Paix. At the time it created quite a furore and duplicates of it would create another, a dozen others, a hundred! For though the Queen has gone the spiders remain, or at least we may suppose so, and while communication with the fat little dar- lings must necessarily be difficult, yet nothing is impossible, their importation could be effected and, this summer or next, in the Senegambian heat in which Newport occasionally luxuriates, the scrump- tiously inclined could coolly glow after the manner of Dane in the golden shower or, if that were too mythological for Bellevue Avenue, then after the fragrant fashion of the Hova queen. The Yildiz-Kiosk Talking of royalty, the Sultan appears to have vi Re oe But his palace remains. Composed of three concentric enclosures, it is the one modern model of a camp of the Huns. In the first enclosure there were, and probably still are, soldiers and bar- racks. The second, made up of shops and stables, was a city of butchers and bakers, grooms and lackeys, servants civil and otherwise, officials and parasites—a town full of people for whose amuse- ment there were menageries, booths, bastinadoes and decapitations. In “the third enclosure, in a building that looks like a Swiss chalet, was the seraglio which no male European has entered except, it is rumoured, the late Mr. Ruskin who, for reasons purely literary of course, effected an entrance through the back door.

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Valse Fantaisie The ettiest al | pr o f PHOTOGRAPHS BY B40WN BRUS New York The Grill in the Plaza Hotel, Demonstrated by Miss Margaret Hawkesworth and Basil Durant The Valse Fantaisie, created by Miss Hawkesworth and Mr. Durant and presented by them in the Plaza Grill, is a semiopen dance, having all the charm and grace of a stately gavotte. they take a series of little runs and drop to their knees, this is done perhaps four times. The count being one, two, three, drop, one, two, three, drop. In figure five the movement of the hands is very important, each motion being The change to the sixth position is difh- cult to make in waltz time, but it is very effective. The change from this back It is a combination of steps taken from the round waltz, the Boston, hesitation and canter. The poses are novel and always made in accordance with the music. danced to waltz time, but practically in the innovation position, all leading being done with hands barely touching. in the perfect unison of the bodies, the motion being so harmonious that each partner seems to be doing a solo dance. to back pose to the crouching position is easily made as the lady does not turn, but simply drops, as the man turns and drops to his right knee. This pose is held for a moment only, the dancers then take the eighth position which is just The beauty of the “Fantaisie” lies Beginning with a sweeping graceful curtsy, the dancers turn and with hands touching, take a long, slow walk, raising the foot high with each step, curving the knee slightly in the upward motion. Then a few waltz steps take them to the third position, where, facing each other with fingers touching, they waltz to several slow beats. From this E.arper’s Bazar, May, 1915 a clever method of changing from one step to another. The ninth, a flirtation pose, leads logically to the tenth, this being merely a step that provides a grace- ful retreat from the centre of the floor. The dance ends as it begins, with a curtsy.

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Polo Enthusiasts at the World’s Fair oe 1 a a is q 4M y . ml i 5 a ie Mrs. Claus Spreckels, with her children Miss Kathryn Steele Mrs. Devereux Milburn Mrs. James Watson Webb Miss Eleonora Sears ITH the tempo rary passing of the interna- tional tourna- ment, the eyes of the polo world are turned toward California where the spirited game has become one of the most spectacular features of the Exposition. In fact they are playing chukkers from one end of the state to the other. Five hundred miles to the southward of San Fran- cisco, some remarkably keen games have been played daily for eight weeks to large and enthusiastic crowds, who jour- neyed to the Golden Gate by way of Coronado Beach, and all indications point to a record breaking season for the Coro- nado players. Polo was intro- duced to southern California ten years ago by some army officers who had played the game when stationed in the East, and it immediately gained a strong foothold. Many keen, clever players have been developed since the first chuk- ker was played, and last year much pressure was brought to bear on the Executive Com- mittee of the National Polo Association to induce them to recognize the Western teams when making up the Inter- national Four. The effort failed, but the Westerners tightened their ponies’ girths and kept on playing, for they had the Exposition season in mind and knew that they would come into their own this spring. The tournament on the Ex- position grounds opened on the fifteenth of March. East met West in a slashing exhibition that was won finally by the Cooperstown team of New York. The big grand stand built for these games was filled, and spectators lined up in the open wherever possible. The Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt, Jr. San Mateo team, Cooperstown men, C. C. Rumsey, Devereux Mil- representing the Pacific Coast, was outplayed from _ burn, F. Skiddy von Stade and Malcolm Stevenson, the start. It was plain even to the novice that the were a strongly knit team, whose members showed Hear per Bazar, May, rors 4 oO that they were used to playing together and thoroughly accus- tomed to each other’s plays. The San Mateons clearly lacked team-work, they made many brilliant individual plays, but 1 such playing is seldom so : valuable as strong combination q work. It is impossible to think of the game without giving some thought to the ponies, who do so much for the players. The Easterners, to a great extent, have their own, and flashing up and down the field are many agile mounts familiar to the Piping Rock and Meadowbrook stables. But there are also many imported from England and the Argentina that do great work. Interest, however, cen- ters in the ponies of Western stock, for the American polo mount of the next few years will be recruited from this country rather than from Eng- land or South America. In the past, good Western ponies have been bred by crossing the well-conditioned native pony stocks with the thoroughbred, and these ponies and others, bred for speed and endurance, will be tried on their merits this year on Eastern and Wes- tern fields. Texas has given us many splendid mounts. The present series of Expo- sition games will come to a close the last of April, but the Coronado games are scheduled to continue during May, if the weather is favourable. The Eastern players are expected to return, however, the first i of May as the Piping Rock tournament opens on the seven- teenth, and of course with the international games off, this tournament and the one to be held in June on the Meadow- brook grounds will be of first importance to the Eastern poloists and their supporters. Newport and Point Judith will have their usual games in August, but it is the game as it is played on Long Island that draws the largest crowds.

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A True President Miss Harrison and her mother, Mrs. Benja- min Harrison, were among the many Americans caught in Germany at the out- break of the war. Be- ing a linguist of ability and an experienced traveller, Miss Harri- son escaped much of the _ unpleasantness that afflicted the ma- jority of her compa- triots. In fact, instead of feeling distressed over the dangers that Th “ CABLE. Cable? Oh, yes! A cable.” At first the deatening sound of so many voices all talking in the same room at the same moment had pre- cluded all rational thought on my part, and just as a vague sort of order was beginning, to present itself to my mind, I was dashed aside to allow for the passage of a tall, angular woman of a rather fluffy appearance. Her hat was trimmed with a quantity of rippling ostrich feathers, and her neck swathed in marabou. “T wanted to ask,” she gushed forth, “I just wanted to know whether I had better cable home via Genoa or via France?” The volunteer, who stood behind the long wooden desk in the Consulate for the United States in a certain city of Germany, smiled benignly and pointed to three or four large notices, posted in all parts of the room, declaring to the American trav- elling public that all cable communications with their native land had been cut off. Nothing daunted, my neighbour burst forth into another flow of words, telling her portly compatriot that she was going to cable, no matter what rule the government might Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 the late Story by of the MISS ELIZABETH HARRISON e arbitrarily attempt to enforce, for, in a previous cable which the authorities had forced her to send in German, she had used the single word sicher, meaning safe, but she had come to fear that some one who knew no word of that mysterious language would think that she was ill, “sicker.” The volunteer smiled sympathetically, but re- peated that when cables were cut, it was not in his power to mend them. She thanked him and passed on to tell her story to the next person she might have the power to capture. She had yet to learn that a German police rule was the one rule in the world without an exception. A smiling gentleman next sailed up to the desk, arranged himself in an armchair and began: ““Now, Mr. Consul-General, just when do you think this war will end?” Then I heard the Consul answer him in such a patient way that I felt ashamed of the smile which had involuntarily crept into my eyes. Next in line was a fat puffy little woman dressed in a lavender linen gown and carrying a parasol elaborately decorated with lace. “Ts this the Consul? No! Oh! the Vice-Consul. 21 Daughter Harrison threatened, she con- sidered it a bit of good luck to be going through such a won- derful experience. This sketch is a composite record of her experi- ences at the American Consulate during those days when demoral- ized tourists flocked there for help. Miss Harrison will graduate in June from boarding school, where she is the editor of her school paper. HOLLINGER & CO Listener How do you do, Mr Vice-Consul. I am glad to meet you. Now I have several questions to ask you, but first tell me, oh! please tell me the truth! do you think there would be any chance of a general massacre of the Americans should the Germans be defeated and a Russian invasion result?” What on earth were all these people here for, were they bereft of their reason? Had the strain of the uncertain situation robbed them of the sense commonly supposed to be in most human beings? Then I began to wonder why I was spending precious hours of my time in line waiting to ask . toask ... well, what? Oh! anything would do! A sudden realization of the secret staggered me! I understood now how our honourable representa- tive had been able to reply to such absurd questions with such an amount of self-control. Everybody wanted a listener. The strain had been, and still was, so great that even the most diffident felt an insane desire for some expression of their surcharged feelings through the easiest medium of speech. I went to the Consul’s private secretary and applied for the position of LISTENER.

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In this story the age-old question—‘‘Am | my brother's keeper?” — takes on a new significance. Life is pretty much the same the world over—tragedy, humour, pathos and comedy, with the grim spectre of Death always in the background. A doctor’s clinic is the confessional, where ignorance, poverty and vice The T was in the Children’s Clinic that I first made the acquaintance of Mrs. Lucca, whom I soon came to look upon in the character of a per- petual storm centre. During the two years or more I had attended the Clinic, she came every other day with a regularity and faith- fulness only broken by the periods of her yearly confinements. I finally came to dread her appear- ance, for Death seemed to be always just over my shoulder when she was near. “Look at them,” he would say, when she and her family took their seats, “mouths open, necks swollen, backs sinuous and chests narrow. Here you keep them rolling like billiard balls from eye clinic to ear clinic, taking in orthopedics and sur- gery on the way, back to you for internal regula- tions. Give them to me, and I'll save the City hundreds of dollars.” “You have two of them already,” I would murmur in reply and then turn to greet her. “Well, Mrs. Lucca, how goes it?” “Baby sick—vomit three time.” “Keep the milk on ice when you get it from the station?” “Yes, doctor.” “Sure?” “Sure!” “* Mix it as we told you?” “Yes, doctor!” I pulled my chair a little closer. “Didn’t you put in just a little bit more milk this time—just a wee bit?” ““May be—I don’ know—I guess I did.” “Guess so; you are as bad as an eighteen-year old with her first baby—aren’t you? You'll lose your baby as sure as [ am sitting here when the hot weather comes, if you don’t do as we tell you.” UT she only smiled a_ halfi-apologetic smile, pushed the brown strands of hair back under her dark kerchief and, with two youngsters hid- ing in the folds of her fringed skirt, she gathered her baby in her arms and got ready to leave. “Look here, Mrs. Lucca, how would you like to send your children to the country for the summer.” Two pairs of eyes looked full at me from behind the fringed skirt, full of wonder as to what was going to be done to them next. “T'll ask my husband ss “You send them, or you'll lose them, too,” I finished and put her name down on the summer list. , “You know,” I added, to stop the tears that were gathering in her eyes, “you are not strong, and you are trying to do too much. I'll be down to see you later.” “Thank you, miss, thank you.” Then I knew the children were going; when I was plain “miss’’ I was one of them. “Next!” An undersized, undernourished father brought in a little girl ten or twelve years of age. She walked as if every step pained her, and every atom in her tired-out body cried for rest. “How old are you, Mary?” “Fifteen,” the father quickly interposed. “How many others in the family?” “Fight.” “How many younger than you, Mary?” “Three.” “All living?” “ Yes.” That was not the way of their kind; Mary was not fifteen. I did not need to ask my next question. “What is your work, Mary?” “T put ribbons in, ladies’ underwear.” “All day?” *‘ All day.” Daddy,” I said, “can you afford to give Mary a vacation? Her heart is out of order.” A shiny coat sleeve passed hastily across his eyes, and taking his breath in short gasps he told me his pitiful story. He was a garment worker, but heart trouble had set upon him, and unable Harper's Bazar, May, rors must yield up their miserable secrets. l,i? -2 By MINA KALLAND to work more than half a day at a time he had lost his job. “Now my wife has to go out to work, Mary has to work—and oh, Doctor, can’t you do something for her?” Here he broke down again. I knew well how large Mary’s paltry two or three dollars a week seemed when the agent came around for the rent, and I also had a vision of a tired little mother coming home after the day’s work to crying babies and uncooked dinners. It was another case of living machines being cheaper than dead ones. So I added another name to my going-to-the-country list, and gave the. father a card admitting him to the hospital. “Thank you, miss, I pray for you in the temple! “All right—mind you that Mary doesn’t run too fast going home!” So the afternoon wore on like a confessional, each burden brought to be left behind, lightened or carried away again. [ paused a moment in the surgical department when my own work was done. There, a young, strong, well-built fellow was lying on the operating table, his neck bare and painted with iodine. One of the doctors was in- jecting the pain-deadening fluid, talking away to keep the patient at ease. “T suppose you want this scar as small as we can make it.” “Oh, I don’t care—just make it right for the navy.” Then the knife went home. “Right for the navy—that’s it,’ growled the doctor, “‘you must have men perfect to kill and be killed, but to bring people into the world a weak consumptive like Mrs. Lucca and her sick husband, multiplying like vermin”. . . “That’s copy-book talk long ago. What are you going to do about it?” I snapped. “Give me something else to work with, and they’ll all be like that,” he answered, pointing to the young man, getting off the table, tall, straight, clear-eyed and clean looking. I did not try to have the last word, for I agreed in spite of myself. The work often did seem like the famous bloodless battles of Valhalla in which every hole in the opponents’ ranks filled up again at night. I pulled out my watch. There was still time to see the Luccas and little Mary, for although I knew they were telling the truth, the home conditions must be investigated before sending them away. As I hurried along through the busy, humming supper-bound tide, the sound of clattering dishes came through the open windows and little children wedged their way through the crowd pushing before them loaves of bread, almost as large as themselves. Now and then some youngster would call out: ” « ELLO, Nurse!” “Hello, Sweetheart!” I would answer and a hand would slip into mine, and half a dozen others quarrel over the handle of my bag. Eager for news of some new baby coming, or some one “dreff’ly sick,” they barefooted along for blocks. Did they know Mary Lubowitz? “Yes, Nurse, she lives in the basement around the corner of Lewis Street.” And by the time we reached the house I had a detailed description of the family, from the grand- mother to the youngest in the cradle. A nine-year old girl with a large apron tied under her arms was busy around the little gas stove, handling the pots and kettles with a deftness that showed much experience. The kitchen was tidy, a white oilcloth was spread on the table, and Mary was slowly placing the knives and spoons. Through the door I saw the father stretched out on a bed in the little room beyond. “Why, how smart you are,” I began. The face at the stove brightened, and the little lad on the floor stopped his building schemes for a moment to “size up”’ the visitor. 22 Clinic “What are you building, my man,” I asked, looking at the chips of wood arranged in rows and piles. ‘A stable, like the one across the street.” After some questioning he pointed out the places intended for his horses, the cockroaches. “They are out now,” he ended cheerily, “but they always come home at night.” The sisters laughed, while I caught myself seeing halos around the lights. Had I been a writer of litanies I would have made one for this stable- keeper and his sisters, the cook and the ribbon- worker: “God—Lord—from the shell-colored smoke of factory fires that comes between us and Thy sunshine, deliver us.” It was getting dark as I again hurried on toward the Lucca household. From across the street I counted the fire-escapes: one, two, three—yes, the third was hers—with a baby-milk bottle where it would catch the full heat of the sun. Signora Lucca never profited from past expe- riences. I creaked up the stairs and into the room. “Buona sera.” “Buona sera, signora.” “Baby no good.” POINTED blankly at the milk bottle on the fire escape. “Oh—I forget. No good here,” pointing at her forehead. I laughed. “You know more than some of us, signora.” When I got ready to leave, she confided to me: “A woman ntx’ door would like speak with you. Baby much sick.” ** All right.” We entered a dark kitchen. It seemed empty at first, but in a corner something stirred and a woman arose with a child in her arms. “La dottoressa,” Mrs. Lucca whispered and left the room. The woman sank back into the chair as motion- less as before. I lighted a lamp and pulled a chair close. The child, a sunny-haired little girl of about four or five summers, was apparently asleep, but her breaths came and went in little sighs and her pulse flickered like a wind-blown candle. “How long has this been going on, mother?” “‘She had the measles first and then got this way, a little at the time.” “Did she play with the Lucca children?” “Yes, she stayed with them when I went to work.” Through the wall I heard a dry cough. Our eyes met an instant and terror shone out of hers. “T am afraid Rose is pretty sick,’ I said. “I think we had better take care of her at the hos- pital.” At this all the pent-up grief of the world seemed to be let loose. I caught up the child as the mother threw herself over the table, moaning and wringing her hands: “T did it all! I did it! Look Look here!” And she bared her arms full of blue and yellow marks, and pushing aside her hair revealed an ugly red scar. “He drinks and he hits me when I don’t give him all the money I earn washin’ and sewin’. And he kicks the children, and I say, it is better they die, and then I go away. The little baby died. I put her next to this one when she had the measles, and she took ’em. Oh, I did it all myself.” “How soon did the baby get the measles after you put her to bed with Rose?” “The next day.” “Then you didn’t do it at all: she would have had them anyhow!” “But I put the baby in the draft and it got the pneumonia. Oh, I was mad, mad, hit and kicked and cursed all the time. Oh—if I could only drink, too, and forget it all!” (Continued on page 62) aa | oe

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te eR: Bi Every narrow-chested girl should read this article. Sound advice for the woman who has headaches, and every woman who has “off days.” . 2. 7 3 ie rata ial WWJ @ BO «& is OA oe Riches—Youth—Sleep—and the good, sweet breath in the Iungs. Breathe By THE COUNTESS OF E were talking after dinner before the men joined us, and one of my guests was confiding to me the story of her health troubles. Early morning head- aches, it seemed, had turned her day to nothingness. “There is only one cure for them,” I replied. “You must breathe.” “But, my dear,’ she protested, “I’ve never stopped breathing for nearly forty years, I’ve done it day and night, waking and sleeping. I never heard of anybody who hasn’t.”’ Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 Then I told her what I know about correct breathing, and we talked until the men joined us. Some months later I had a letter from my friend, telling me very gratefully that her headaches were things of the past, that they had yielded slowly to the treatment [had advised, and that she was feeling in better general health than she had known for years. I can claim to have discovered the virtues of deep breathing long before they were as much talked about as they are to-day. It happens that I have always been an early riser and have always slept with my windows open. As soon as I awoke 23 Drawing by Nell Brinkley Deep WARWICK on a fine morning, I would run to the window and drink deeply of the morning air. If the weather was not propitious, I would leave the window and the air severely alone, and on these occasions I invari- ably found that something was lacking. The high spirits, the joy of life, the feeling that the day held definite pleasure in it—I looked for these things in vain. Then, a little nervously, I tried the breathing on dull and wet days at all seasons and learned that, in spite of warnings, I was really the better for it and that the weather soon ceased to (Continued on page 74)

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Theatres Stage-setting of Mr. H. E. Bothin’s cypress theatre at Montecito. HE first open-air theatres in this country were Grecian in character and, being de- signed for college use, were necessarily developed on a large scale. Their practic- ability, therefore, for the private es- tate was not realized. The Greek playhouse at Berkeley, California, for instance, while wondrously beau- tiful, did not inspire even the million- aire householder with the desire for possession, or even emulation. Many of the most remarkable productions ever given in any land have been staged within its verdant walls, Margaret Anglin’s “Antigone,” for illustration, presented on a moon- light night was a feast for the senses long to be remembered, and a dra- matic picture that could not have been duplicated on the conventional stage. The tea-bower, an ad- junct to Mrs. William Miller Graham’s theatre. It was the intimate outdoor theatre, however, such as the beautiful one gracing the grounds of the Villa Gregoria, near Rome, and not the larger classic ones known here, that inspired a few Americans to create their own open-air playhouses. Their efforts have been well rewarded, the successful maturity of several thea- tres on the Pacific coast being a matter of surprise to those of us who con- sidered the al fresco theatre a luxury peculiar to certain parts of Europe. In Montecito, California, on the estate of H. E. Bothin, Esquire, there is a theatre, very new in comparative point of years, but more beautiful, if that were possible, than the famed one of the Villa Gregoria. The stage occupies a slight elevation and is grass carpeted, with a low stone wall across the front gracefully curved and ivy covered. There are ten wings and a screen at the back where they meet—of perfectly clipped Monterey cypress, which stand out like rolls of green velvet. At each end of the front of the stage, a cypress tree has been allowed to grow tall, the tops diverted and brought together to form a proscenium arch. The cypress boxes overlooking the stage of Mr. Bothin’s theatre. And quite as charming as the st itself are the boxes. These, too, have been “whittled” out of cypr in the most ingenious manner. There are six in number, three on each side of the stone steps leading from the open space immediately in front of the stage, and designed for part of the audience, as in any theatre. Each box seats from four to six people com- fortably. Beyond the boxes, the native trees, lighter and greyer than the cypress, are apparently painted Harper's Bazar, May, 1015

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c ‘ ay rnia By UNA ae ©

“Macaire,”” a forest theatre where Robin Hood has been played. into the blue sky, so gradually do they tone into it in perspective. The electric lights are so cleverly hidden among the trees that the eifect at night is rather like brilliant moon- light than artificial light. Matinées are, however, the order rather than evening affairs, on account of the distance of the estate from other estates. But when a play is on, and both players and audience are in gala d with all the lovely colour of the costumes showing against the rich green of the stage and boxes, the scene presented i like some rare and lovely old print come to life. Quite different in detail, but just as beautiful, with the added innova- tion of a refreshment bower, is Mrs. William Miller Graham’s open-air theatre at Santa Barbara—the next door neighbour to Montecito. Here the trees form a proscenium arch. OFS MEeSE re A columned stage where classic dances and musicales are given. The stage, roofed by heavy boughs, is raised four steps high and is large enough for a good sized chorus. <A long line of cypress, still young, has been planted “‘back stage” in order to give a uniform background. In the centre of the stage there is a white marble seat of rare workmanship. A large expenditure is not necessary in order to possess an open-air theatre. A stage, such as was built in one in- stance on a city lot, occupies a small plot of ground at the end of the lot and depends largely on proportion and colour for its charm, and is, in fact, the climax to a pink garden. At the back-centre of the stage—and at each end of a pool that is in front of it—there is a large peach-tree, and following the Japanese custom, a garden-pafty is given each year when the peach-tr are in bloom, though later the trees are almost as decora- tive when laden with fruit. All sum- mer clumps of hydrangeas add their lovely pink blossoms to the colour scheme and are reflected in the blue pool along with bits of any play that take place near the front of the stage. Wherever there are trees, the possi bility exists for an al fresco theatre. The greenwood thea- tre on Mrs. Graham's estate at Santa Barbara. The success of such a theatre de- pends more on ingenuity and good taste than on a large expenditure of money: And in the absence of trees a very pleasing effect may be gained by the use of columns properly dis- posed in clusters on a slight eleva- tion, which may be paved with brick, cemented, or grass sown. Space should be left at the base of the col- umns for growing vines which may entwine the columns and rest on a rustic framework above. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

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The **Our feet are our Now that barefoot dancing has become popular on the ballroom floor, the dancer must make up her feet as carefully as she does her face. There is nothing more unsightly than an uncared for foot, but most visible defects may be remedied nowadays by the girl who would a barefoot go. Dabs of liquid rouge, delicate applications of pink and white enamel and beauty patches of French plaster are wonderfully transforming, but it takes more than these surface attentions to make shoeless dancing on hard floors a thing of com- fort as well as beauty. Unless she has put her feet through a special hard- IQIls Fuller fortunes, Dancers sirs,’’ they said. ening process, the barefoot dancer will never be able to glide across a floor with the ease and confidence that she must have in order to be able to say, with the Fuller Dancers, that her feet are her fortune. Massage with cold cream, alcohol rubs, muscle pulling and salt baths are only a part of the training that must be gone through. It is not, however, by their feet alone that the Fuller Dancers have achieved their reputation, for Ida Fuller has invented and employs certain effects, notably that of “fire,” “thunder,” and “wind” to enhance the beauty and grace of her company of dancers.

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= ew tate) eld And Who UMPTUARY legislation, or anything that could be construed as such, has always been unpopular, and has ever excited resistance. Queen Mary’s rash attempt to prohibit the wearing at court of those scanty, clinging, tight fitting dresses, which sans dessous left so little of the feminine form divine to the imagination, proved a lamentable failure. Denun- ciations of the offending gowns by the Bishops and Clergy proved quite as unavailing as when, in 1465, an ecclesiastical edict was issued in London, pro- viding excommunication for those who did not restrict within the statutory limits the then exag- gerated length of their pointed shoes, people prefer- ring to imperil their souls through the anathemas of the Church, rather than to defy the dictates of fashion. Dame Fashion is just as little inclined to brook any usurpation of her sovereignty to-day as two centuries ago, when the Russians inaugurated a full fledged and sanguinary insurrection against Peter the Great, because he sought to compel them to shave off their beards and to shorten their coats. The only monarch who ever really succeeded in defying Fashion and in bending her to his will—and that but in one particular case—lost his head on the scaffold, though not, I must admit, precisely on that account. It was Louis XVI. of France, who, some 130 years ago, gravely squared the circle, by a royal proclamation, in which he solemnly decreed that “The length of every pocket handkerchief made in Our Kingdom shall be equal to its breadth.” The force of this quaint enactment still survives, not alone in France, but in all civilized countries. But two women of sovereign rank have ever suc- ceeded in influencing Fashion in the slightest degree, and they were parvenues on the throne, in the sense that they were not of royal birth. Empress Joseph- ine of France, née Mlle. Tascher de la Pagerie, is mainly remembered to-day by women not as the fascinating Creole consort of the First Napoleon, but as the originator of the so-called Empire style of frocks; while the name of Empress Eugénie, née Harper's Bazar. May, 1015 Pulls THE ANSWER Mile. de Montijo, granddaughter of a Scotch gro- cery trader who was United States Consul at Malaga, will forever be associated in the feminine mind with the crinoline. But the sovereignty of Fashion is something more than merely republican in its constitution. It is even revolutionary, in that it is forever changing. Every mode is ephemeral. There is a reason for this. Manufacturers of the materials of which dresses and hats are made, as well as the couturiers and modistes, are interested in promoting the end- less succession of changes, since it ensures a per- petually renewed demand for their wares. They are aided and abetted in this by those women who for one reason or another desire to be conspicuous —ladies in society, and ladies out of it. Nothing is so close to the person as clothes; nothing so effectually attracts attention to the person as any 27 the Str! novelty in clothes. The novelty appeals to other women, who adopt it. It becomes so general that women anxious to avoid attention feel obliged to conform themselves thereto, no matter how reluc- tantly, in order to avoid becoming unduly conspic- uous. The question naturally arises as to whence Fashion derives its power, since it declines to allow itself to be influenced by royalty, and is so constantly at variance with all recognized authority. Who and what is Dame Fashion, whose rule is so tyrannical? Perhaps Fashion can best be described as a sort of democracy. The ever changing styles are devised by the great couturiers, sometimes at the instigation of valued customers, but generally of their own accord. They make use of actresses for the pur- pose of submitting on the stage their crude and often vulgar designs, for the approval of the femi- nine public in the plays that are produced at the opening of each season. Then the fashions are toned down, and refined by the leaders of society, who, pruning them of everything that is contrary to the laws of elegance and good taste, issue them, thus edited, to the world. American women derive their fashions from Paris, via New York, which may be described as a clearing-house for the entire country. A French- woman, be she a mondaine, demi-mondaine, or an underpaid midinette, will always manage to give a touch of individuality to her frock, some little original note, no matter how slight, that identifies the gown with its wearer, and imparts to it some- thing of the personality. But the toilettes of the American women, no matter how exquisite, as a rule lack this touch. There are beautiful frocks which offend the eye when donned by young girls, and others that are equally displeasing when worn by elderly women. If we may be permitted to offer a suggestion to our readers, it is that instead of bending to Fashion, they should endeavour to bend it to themselves, should develop the personal note, the sympathy between the clothes and the wearer, thereby augmenting their native charm and grace.

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.* sone a... = H, Alec!—how late you are!” “Are there some people coming to dinner?” said Wing impatiently. “Bother! I had quite forgotten.” “Mr. Llewellyn—and that Treasury man you told me to ask. Oh, and Alec! —my little cousin, Joyce Allen, will be there. She came this afternoon for a few days—just to be looked at—and I couldn’t leave her out. I hope you won’t mind.” Caroline was in the hands of her maid, dressing for dinner. The eyes she turned upon her husband, as he stood in the open doorway of his dressing- room, shone out from the cloud of dark hair that fell about her neck and shoulders. Such beauty as hers is at its best in disarray. But Wing, almost for the first time, did not notice it. She saw indeed that he looked preoccupied and excited. “Well, I hope they won’t stay late. I’ve got lots to talk to you about.” She smiled at him. “Important? Well, go and dress. And I'll get rid of them as soon as I can.” When Alec followed his wife down to the yellow drawing-room, he found—as he had been warned a slim creature in black standing shyly beside Car- rie. She was introduced to him as “Joyce.” He vaguely remembered that Caroline had spoken to him some weeks before of a death she had noticed in the Times—that of a favourite first cousin of her mother’s, a clergyman in Yorkshire. ‘He was a widower, with one girl’’—she had said, musing— “‘T haven’t seen them—or heard of them—for years. But they were very poor. I expect she is left with- out a penny. She used to be a dear little thing. I wonder if I could get hold of her? I dreadfully want somebody to help me, Alec, in this big house! There’s so much to do!” HEREBY Alec had understood that Carrie wanted a secretary, after the manner of other great ladies, and that it would give her pleasure— were it possible—to fill the post with this—presum- ably—forlorn cousin. He knew very well that Carrie’s pride and feelings had suffered sorely, though silently, under the complete severance be- tween her and those relations of her own for whom she cared most. He was well aware, too, of yearn- ings in his wife’s heart which neither passion nor society was likely to extinguish. Possibly the shel- tering and mothering of this orphan girl, supposing the girl turned out to be suitable, might do some- thing to soothe them. He hastily gave his blessing on the scheme, taking for granted, of course, that Carrie would not let the newcomer interfere with their life d deux and then thought no more of it. But now here was the young lady—a girl, appar- ently about twenty, in the very simplest of black frocks, her hair coiled in Jarge fair plaits at the back of her head, and a narrow black ribbon carrying a locket round her neck. ‘ Not pretty,” he thought, after a first cursory examination—‘‘but might be worse.”’ She had given him her hand with quiet self-possession, and as there was no other lady in the party, he found himself presently taking her down to dinner, not without some bored wonder on his own part as to how much attention Carrie might expect him to give this little person. The little person herself did not seem to expect any attention. She sat quietly beside him, answering when he spoke to her, without awkwardness or hesitation, though always, as he could not help noticing, with a slight rush of colour to the pale cheeks. Six weeks, was it, since she had lost her father? His easy good-nature made him sorry for her, and he could not help specu- lating inwardly with some boyish amusement as to what the young woman, fresh from her country parsonage, must be thinking of Eltham House. Sometimes whenever the conversation flagged at all he caught the girl’s brown eyes travelling round the room, taking in apparently the great Vandyck, the series of family portraits, the tapestries, and the superb silver—Renaissance flagons, bowls and sal- Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 -EL LO l ry i —s | - By the Avwther of “Robert Elsmere,” “Eleanor,” **The Marriage of William Ashe,” Marcella,” “Delia Blanchflower,” etc. $-+--z » SVP R TS Ww THE STORY—Alec Wing and Caroline, his wife, arrive in London after a honey- moon of two years in Italy. They take up their residence in Eltham House, the pala- tial London home of the Wing family. Society, for the most part, indicates disap- proval of them, and more particularly of Caroline because of her divorce from her first husband. Lord Wing urges Alec, who is anxious to secure a seat in Parliament, to be deliberate and cautious, and advises him that success can only come through Caroline’s tact in placating and making friends of influential men and women. He outlines a plan of campaign to Mrs. Wing, and tells his son that he will place sufficient money at his disposal to enable him to accomplish the desired end. The Wings begin to entertain on a lavish scale, and while the maiority of women refuse their invitations, many men accept, among them two leaders of the Liberal party, Richard Washington and Robert Llewellyn. vers—ranged on the carved buffet which faced the Vandyck. ‘They were intelligent eyes he thought; certainly not the eyes of a fool. But the conversation did not often flag. Llewel- lyn led it, and in a small gathering, where he felt himself at ease there was no better talker. Jim Durrant had dropped in, and besides the Treasury man, one Axeham, whose brain was the unfailing resource of each successive Chancellor of the Ex- chequer, there was a young Lord Merton whom Alec had himself invited the day before, and then forgotten. He was the heir of a great midland mag- nate; a little foppish, perhaps, in a grave way, with his drooping moustache and pointed black beard trimmed like a Valois portrait, but able and sympathetic, especially to women. That he was simply dazzled by Carrie was evident, and Alec’s lover’s vanity laughed inwardly, well pleased. For he remembered that Merton, who had been his latest fag at Eton, had hesitated perceptibly before accepting his invitation. The talk fell on Germany, and that possible Armageddon of the future, of which the world in geheral thought then so little, and the men closely in touch with European affairs so much. Llewellyn, who spent part of every year in Germany and spoke as a German-lover, gave a graphic account of anti- English feeling in the northern towns. “We stub their toes wherever they turn. The feeling is absurd—mad—but horribly dangerous.” XEHAM cheerily pooh-poohed him. “Ger- many at war would be bankrupt in three months—and the Kaiser knows it.” Durrant, for his part, only hoped he might live to see the struggle that every English soldier was thirsty for. ‘ But you Liberal fellows, if you come in, will never fight! Your tail won’t let you—and England will take a back-seat for good. Ah, well, if you funk it, some of us can always shoot you!” “ Pour encourager les autres!”’ laughed Llewellyn. But in the eye that met Durrant’s there was a gentle mockery, as of one who kept his own counsel. “My cousin has just come back from Germany,” said Caroline, bending kindly towards the girl. “Haven't you, Joyce?”’ Miss Allen coloured again, evidently from shyness. But she answered readily. She had been teaching, she said, in the family of a German officer of high rank. She mentioned the name, and Llewellyn bent across the table with an exclamation. ‘One of the very best of their military historians,” he said, “‘and one of the most fiercely anti-English.” A sad expression darkened the young face. ‘Yes, they hate us,”’ she said simply, adding immediately “but they were very kind to me.” Durrant who was sitting next her looked at her 28 eS with sympathy. ‘Well, no wonder!” he thought— “with such a nice little creature!” And he began to draw her out. Her account of her German experiences amused and pleased every- body. Caroline made a little signal to Alec, as much as to say—“‘isn’t she rather a dear?’’—and Wing signalled graciously in return. But as soon as her short innings were over she lapsed into a bright-eyed silence, following all the talk with evi- dent though suppressed eagerness. Durrant liked her increasingly as time went on, little as she allowed him to get out of her. But he gathered presently that she was a cousin of Mrs. Wing’s, and this was the first time she had been inside Eltham House. He could not help woudering what she knew about her cousin’s story. Meanwhile for other persons at the table, the dinner, when over, remained in memory as simply Caroline Wing’s opportunity. Alec Wing indeed had observed and listened to his wife with some secret amazement. How awfully clever Carrie was getting! She was quite able to hold her own with Llewellyn, who was clearly becoming devoted to her; and as for Merton, she had just knocked him over. In their long love-making in that upland of Vignale, she had been the most delightful of com- panions, ready to listen or talk, to read or be read to, to draw—embroider—idle—just as he pleased. But intellectually he had been the guide, and she the happy follower. Her life with Marsworth had been an isolated and cloistered thing. Living all the year round in a remote Yorkshire dale, with a man of austere religious belief, a stifled intellect, and a morbid conscience, she had seen little or nothing of the world and its affairs. Wing had taught her a good deal, had delighted in teaching her, and in watching the quick response that roused at once his pride and his passion. UT now—Carrie had really come on astonish- ingly! And he recalled a dinner of the week before—Washington’s persistent vigil at Carrie’s side, at dinner and afterwards; the man’s evident absorption in his hostess, and submission to the spell by which she made a reticent man talk, and talk his best—to his own pleasure, and that of a delighted circle. Washington was fast becoming one of Carrie’s best friends. And yet—what good was it going to do him— after all? The young man’s self-conceit was taking alarm. He could not help seeing that Llewellyn, whose approval and friendship he himself ardently desired, was much more ready to listen to her than to himself; that Axeham was genially communi- cative to Carrie, while inclined to hold his host at bay, and that Merton too showed the same kind of discrimination. Of course men, first-rate men, were always deferential to women, and women were taken in by it. A certain discomfort of the male, obscurely threatened in his natural réle of superi- ority, swept across him occasionally as he watched his wife. But it was very vague and fugitive; quite effaced in the end by a reflux of pride in her charm and her good looks. After the general conversation of the dinner- table, the evening passed in a series of duologues Caroline and Lord Merton in one corner of the yel- low drawing-room; Durrant, with the little cousin in tow, walking about among the pictures, Alec, Llewellyn, and Axeham discussing the Parliamen- tary situation. Alec however grew very soon im- patient to see the last of his guests, and he was presently reduced to strolling morosely through the pictures by himself, occasionally appealed to by Durrant and Miss Allen, as he happened to come across them. That little girl must be sent to bed. Caroline must really see to it that she did not become a nuisance. And as to that fellow, Merton, would he never go? A philandering chatter-box! He would give Carrie a hint not to encourage him. He was fairlv on edge by the time Llewellyn: (Continued on page 76) Pl

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Women Who Achieve 7 ETHEL FRANCE MUNDY Miniaturist in Wax Here is seen the revival of an ancient art in which the pose of childhood and quality of flesh are, perhaps, better ex- “GARE Alexandra Sybil Walker Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. A. Stewart Walker Margaret Mundy Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Edward K. Mundy pressed than in any other. Miss Eva Stewart Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Percy Hamilton Stewart Cynthia Anne Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Alexander D. B. Pratt Grenville Kane Walker Son of Mr. and Mrs. A. Stewart Walker Elizabeth Schuyler Hamilton Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Pierson Hamilton 4 Sarah Booth Thatcher Benjamin Brewster y Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Day Thatcher Son of Mr. and Mrs. George Brewster 4 N the work of Ethel Frances Mundy, of Syracuse, for the work nor any source of reference by which New York, in which wax is used as a medium she could secure suggestions as to the proper manip- ; for portraiture, is found a revival of an almost ulation of the material or handling of colour, the forgotten art. ‘‘ Painting in wax”’ flourished in yreliminary efforts ended only in discouragement. Germany in the sixteenth century and later in ' Mlecy a aoa t At last, however, through the coope ration of an i hy . nt . an . Thom a hatc k Italy and France, as seen in the rare and beau- Deughter of Br. a ey Salen experienced chemist she obtained a quality of wax tiful examples of the work of Francois Clouet, and again in that of Antoine Benoit during the reign of Louis XIV. There are also some early English wax miniatures of royalty still extant, a number of exam- ples of the work ‘done in this country during colonial times, and a few later American portraits. With but possibly few other exceptions, the art of en- caustic or painting portraits in wax has not been practised since the days of the early Greeks. Inspired by the work still extant in Europe, such as that which forms an important part of the Wal- lace Collection in London and the wax reliefs in the Cluny and other Museums, Miss Mundy felt the Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 desire, during her travels abroad, to produce minia- ture portraits in this same medium, and on her re- turn began her experimental work. Years of patient applic ation and invention were then spent in inter- preting this unusual medium, until, technically, her work is like the subjects of the Renaissance and the wax reliefs she has seen and studied abroad, and yet it has an essentially modern touch and an in- dividuality all its own. Nor did Miss Mundy’s first completed results prove satisfactory. Many devices and materials were tried and discarded, for having no precedent 29 which withstands any normal degree of heat or cold. Through this lasting medium, a perfection of mod eling and technique has been acquired that forcibly expresses the high ideals and fundamental training of this young artist. As a student of decorative art, under Miss Amy M. Sacker of Boston, at the Mechanics’ Institute in Rochester and at the Art League in New York, Miss Mundy developed a knowledge of colour and form that has.secured a fine sense of proportion in her present work. There is, too, a delicacy in her man- ipulation of the wax that lends the charm of actual (Continued on page 74)

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Fendihook. Liosha sprang at HAVE one failing. Even I, Hilary Freeth, of Northlands in the County of Berkshire, Esquire, Gent, have one failing, and I freely confess it. I cannot keep a key. Were I as other men are, which thank Heaven I am not, I might wear a pound or so of hideous ironmongery chained to my person. This I decline to do, with the result that, as I say, I cannot keep a key. Of all the household stowaway places under my control (and Barbara limits their number) only one is locked; and that drawer containing I know not what treasures or rubbish is likely te continue so forever and ever for the key is lost. Such important documents as I desire to place in security I send to bankers or solicitors, who are trained from childhood in the expert use of safes and strong-boxes. My other papers the world can read if it choose to waste its time; at any rate I am not going to lock them up and have the worry of a key preying on my mind. I should only lose it as I lost the other one. Now, by a freak of fortune, the key of Jaffery’s flat re mained in the suit-case wherein I had flung it at Havre, until it was fished out by Franklin on my arrival at Northlands. “For goodness’ sake, my dear,”’ said I to Barbara, “take charge of this thing.” UT she refused. She had too many already to look after. I must accept the responsibility as a moral discipline. So I tied a luggage label to the elusive object, inscribed thereon the legend “ Key of Jaffery’s flat,” and hung it on a nail which I drove into the wall of my library. “Besides,” said Barbara, satirically watching the operation, “I am not going to have anything to do with this crack-brained adventure.” “To hear you speak,” said I, for she had already spoken at considerable length on the subject, “one would think that I could have prevented it. If Jaffery chooses to go Baresark and Liosha to throw her cap over the topmasts, why in the world shouldn’t they?” “IT suppose I’m conventional,” said Barbara. “And from the description you have given me of the boat I’m sure the poor child will be utterly miserable, and she’ll ruin her hands and her figure and her skin.” I wished I had drawn a little less lurid picture of the steamship Vesta. As soon as business or idleness took me to town, I visited St. Quentin’s Mansions, and after con- sultation with the porter, who, knowing me to be a friend of Mr. Chayne’s, assured me that I need not have burdened myself with the horrible key, I entered Jaffery’s chambers. I found the small sitting-room in very much the same state of litter as when Jaffery left it. He enjoyed litter and hated the devastating tidiness of housemaids. Give a young horse with a long, swishy tail a quarter of an hour’s run in an ordinary bachelor’s rooms and you will have the normal appearance of Jaffery’s home. As I knew he did not want me to dust his books and pictures (such as they were) or to make order out of a chaos of old newspapers, or to put his pipes in the rack or to remove spurs and physical culture apparatus from the sofa, or to bestow tender care upon a cannon ball, an anti quated eighteen- or twenty-pounder, which reposed —most useful piece of furniture—in the middle of Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 —" : , a4 iu lliam J. THE STORY—Hilary Freeth and his wife, Barbara, at their country home near London, hear of the marvelous success of a new novel wrilten by their friend, Adrian Boldero. Adrian and his fiancée, Doria Jellicoe, come to visit them, also Jaffery Chayne, the war-correspondent. Jaffery is just back from the wilds of Albania, where the death of a friend has left him the guardian of the widow Liosha, a native Albanian. The story of her life arouses the pity of every one, and plans are made for her future. Meantime, Jaffery has fallen hopelessly in love with Doria, who cares only for Adrian. Adrian and Doria are finally married and Jaffery sets out for the far East, leaving Liosha in a London boarding-house. Adrian works feverishly on his new book. At Christmas time, Hilary and Barbara are hastily summoned to London, and Jaffery, who has just re- turned to England, goes with them. They are horrified to find Adrian dead, and Doria desperaiely ill. Then they discover that Adrian had stolen the manuscript of his successful book from a friend, now de- ceased, and that he has utterly failed in the attempt to produce a book, leaving only a few illegible manuscript notes. Jaffery in- sists that the truth be kept from Doria He takes charge of the notes and after several months presents her with a novel which he assures her is Adrian’s completed work, but which, in reality, he himself has written. The book meets with instantaneous success. Jaffery lingers on in London writing an- other novel and paying court to Doria, and finally proposes to her. Maddened by her refusal, he seizes her in his arms. Doria orders him from the house. Liosha writes Jaffery that she is going to France to marry a music hall performer. Jaffery knows the man to be a scoundrel, and he and Hilary hurry to France and save Liosha. There Jaffery and Liosha, in a spirit of adven- ture, sign on a ship bound for Madagascar. the hearth-rug, or to see to the comfortless electric radiator that took the place of a grate, I let these things be, and concentrated my attention on his papers which lay loose on desk and table. This was obviously the tidying up to which he had referred. I swept his correspondence into one drawer. I gathered together the manuscript of his new novel and swept it into another. On the top of a pedestal bookcase I discovered the original manuscript of The Greater Glory, neatly bound in brown paper and threaded through with red tape. This I dropped into the third drawer of the desk, which already contained a mass of papers. I went into his bed- room, where I found more letters lying about. I collected them and looked around. There seemed to be little left for me to do. I noticed two photo- graphs on his dressing table—one of his mother, whom I remembered, and one of Doria—these I laid face downwards so that the light should not fade them. I noticed also a battered portmanteau from beneath the lid of which protruded three or four corners of scribbling paper, and lastly my eyes fell upon the offending beer-barrel in a dark alcove. The basin set below the tap, in order to catch the drip, was nearly full. In four months’ time the room would be flooded with sour and horrible beer. ULL of the thought, I deposited the letters in the drawer with the rest of the correspondence, and, leaving the flat, summoned the lift, and in Jaffery’s name presented a delighted porter with the contents of a nine gallon cask. I went away in the rich glow that mantles from man’s heart to cheek when he knows that he has made a friend for life. It was only afterwards, when I got home, and hung the labelled key on my library wall, that I realised that old Jaffery and myself had, at least, one thing in common—videlicet, the keyless habit. I had often suspected that deep in our souls lurked some hidden ¢rait-d’union. Now I had found it. And looking back on that wreck of a room I reflected how congenial Jaffery must have found his surroundings on board the Vesta. The weather had changed from summer calm to storm. The gentleman from the meteorological office who writes for the newspapers talked about cyclonic disturb- ances, and reported gales in the channel and on the 30 Locke and Liosha Hilary, Jaffery west coasts of France. The same was likely to continue. The wind blew hard enough in Berk- shire, what must it have done in the Bay of Biscay? As a matter of fact, as we learned from a picture postcard from Jaffery and a short letter from Liosha posted at Bordeaux, and from their lips considerably later—for impossible as it may seem, they did not go to the bottom or die of scurvy or the cannibal’s knife—they had made their way from Havre in an ever-increasing tempest, during which they appar- ently had not slept or put on a dry rag. Heavy seas washed the deck, and kept out the galley fires, so that warm food had not been procurable. It seemed that every horror I had prophesied had come to pass. I should have pitied them, but for the blatant joyousness in their communications. ‘“*T was not seasick a minute and I have never been so happy in my life,” wrote Liosha. “Hilary should have been with us,’ wrote Jaffery. “It would have made a man of him. Liosha in splendid fettle. She goes about in men’s clothes and oil- skins and can turn her hand to anything when she isn’t lashed to a stanchion.” You can just imagine them having cast off all semblance of Christians and wallowing in wet and dirt. . . ABOUT this time, according to the sequence of events recorded in my all too scraggy diary, Doria came to us for a week end, her first visit since Jaffery’s outrageous conduct. She was glad to make friends with us once more, and to prove it, showed the pleasanter side of her character. She professed not to have forgiven Jaffery; but she referred to the terrible episode in less vehement terms. It was obvious to us both that she missed him more than she would confess, even to herself. In her reconstituted existence he had stood for an essential element. Unconsciously she had counted on his devotion, his companionship, his constant service, his bulky protection from the winds of heaven. Now that she had driven him away she found a girder wanting in her life’s neat structure, which accordingly had begun to wobble uncom- fortably. After all, she had provoked the man (this with some reluctance she admitted to Barbara) and he had only picked her up and shaken her. He had had no intention of dashing out her brains or even of giving her a beating. In her heart she repented. Otherwise why should she take so ill Jaffery’s flight with Liosha, which she characterised as abominable, and Liosha’s flight with Jaffery, which she characterised as monstrous? “T can’t talk to Barbara about it,’’ she said to me on the Sunday morning, perching herself on the corner of my library table, a disrespectful trick which she had caught from my wife, while I sat back in my writing chair. ‘‘ Barbara seems to be bemused about the woman. One would think she was a kind of saint, incapable of stain.” “Tn one specific way,”’ I replied, “I think she is.” “Oh, rubbish, Hilary,” she smiled, and swung her little foot. ‘You, a man of the world, how can you talk so? First she runs off with that dread- ful fellow and a few hours afterwards runs off with Jaffery. What respectable woman—well, what honest woman, according to the term of the lower classes—would run away with two men within twenty-five hours?” “She went off honourably, with Fendihook,

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SCORES RE RR ERD —-~ TERETE SE Before Jaffery realised the danger, Liosha flung him aside. thinking he was going to marry her. She has joined Jaffery honourably, too, because there’s no question of marriage or anything else between She shook her head from “Sancta simplicitas!” side to side and looked at me pityingly. ‘T’ll allow Jaffery is just a fool. But she isn’t. The best one can say for her is that she has no moral sense. I know the type.” ““Where have you studied it, my dear?” I asked HE coloured, taken aback, but after half a second she replied with her ready sureness: “In my father’s drawing-room among city people and in my own among literary people.’’ “H’m!” said I. ‘‘Lioshas don’t grow on every asional chair.” ““You’re as bemused as Barbara.” “T haven’t studied what you call the type,” I replied. ‘But I’ve studied an individual, which you haven’t.” She swung off the table. “Oh, well, have it your own way—Paul and Virginia if you like. What does it matter to me?” “Yes, my dear,” said I. ‘‘That’s just it—what the dickens does it matter to you?” “Nothing at all.” She snapped a dainty finger and thumb. “You’ve turned Jaffery out of your house,” continued with malicious intent. ‘“‘You’ve s never to set eyes on him again. You’ve banished him beyond your horizon. His doings now can be Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 no concern of yours. If he chose to elope with the fat woman in a freak museum, why shouldn’t he? What would it have to do with you?” “Only this,” said Doria, coming back to the table corner, but not sitting on it. ‘It would make Jaffery’s declaration to me all the more insulting.” “*Having known me to decline’?” I quoted. “Precisely.” She tossed her head, in her wounded pride. But unknowingly she had swallowed my bait. I had hooked my little fish. I smiled to myself. She was eaten up with jealousy. “Well,” said I, “you remember the French proverb about the absent being alw in the wrong. Let us wait until they come back and hear what they’ve got to say for themselv She put her hands behind her back. As she stood, her little black and ivory head was not much above the level of mine. ‘What they may say is a matter of perfect indifference to me.” I bent forward. “I think I ought to tell you what Jaffery’s—practically—last words to me we ‘There’s only one woman in the world for me. Meaning you.” She broke away with a laugh. “And to prove it he elopes with the fat woman! Oh, Hilary,” with the tips of her fingers she brushed my hair— “vou really are a simple old dear.” ** All the ” I began. ‘All the same,” she interrupted, “this is a very untidy conversation. I didn’t come in here to 31 OnAWING BY F. MATAWIA talk, but to borrow a copy of Baudelaire, if you have one.” She turned to scan my shelves. I joined her and took down Les Fleurs du Mal. She thanked me, tucked the book under her arm and went out. RATHER uncharitably I rejoiced in her soreness It was good discipline. It would give her a sense of values; should she ever get Jaffery back again, with no Liosha hanging round his neck, I was cer tain that not only would she forgive past mishan dling, but for the sake of keeping him, would put up with a little more. Whether she would marry him was another story. I had every reason to believe that she would not. Adrian reigned her bosom’s lord. In her worshipping fidelity she never wa- vered. She regarded a second marriage with horror. That was comprehensible enough, with her husband but seven months dead. No, should she ever get Jaffery back, I didn’t think she would marry him; but beyond doubt she would treat him with more consideration and respect. These of course were my conjectures and deductions (con- firmed by Barbara) from the patent fact that she found herself lost without Jaffery and that she was furiously jealous of Liosha. It was several weeks before we saw her again. August arrived. Barbara and I played the ever- fresh summer comedy. I swore by all my gods I would not leave Northlands. I went on vowing until I arrived with a mountain of luggage, a wife (Continued on page 68)

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A The In Other By R. FREDERICK MARR entered what appeared to be the anteroom of an exclusive establishment in the most fashionable shopping district of the city and stood winking his bloodshot eyes uncertainly. There seemed to be nothing for sale in spite of the display of jewels in the window, unless the two pieces of sculpture standing in relief against a grey brocade curtain were exhibited for that purpose. Another curtain of the same stuff separated the window from the room and excluded the gaze of any curious out- siders. A pier-glass was recessed in the wall on the right with rows of drawers in polished cypress on each side of it. The opposite wall was an effective background for two Chinese tables of carved pomegranate-coloured lacquer with chairs to cor- respond. \ man of distinguished appearance was seated at one of the tables writing in a book, and at Mr. Marr’s entrance, turned and eyed him interrogatively. Frederick Marr was not altogether sure of his footing and swayed perceptibly as he gingerly picked his way over the delicate grey carpet and came toa standstill before the two busts. Pointing a finger at one of them he remarked ‘ What’s the beggar doin’?” and in answer to his question spread his fingers before his face and peered between them imitating the attitude of the statue. The eyes of Harper Basar, May, 1915 Horror Story Gem Dealer Words the Devil CLAUDE M. “Smooth the descent and easy ts the way; The Gates of Ilell stand open night and Seay aay. VIRGIL. the bust flickered behind the marble fingers spread before them, the jet irises quivering in their ivory settings. ‘“‘The beggar’s laughin’ at me,’ Marr complained. ‘Why one of his han’s bleedin’. How c’n marble bleed? He steadied himself on the edge of the pedestal, reached forth his hand, touched the drop of blood and then looked at his finger-tip. “The devil!—it’s a ring with a ruby hangin’ from it. What d’ye think of that? Rum idea—what?” “Tt is a pendant as well as a ring for the finger,” explained the gem dealer as he walked over from the table, and opening the circlet detached it from the marble hand and held the dangling jewel up to the light. “The ruby is so perfectly round that the lapidary wished to emphasize its perfection.” He snapped it on one of Marr’s fingers. ‘ Very pretty,” the young man said gravely, turning his hand from side to side to make the gem roll about. Then with a revulsion of feeling he pulled it off and flung it down. “Let me get out of this. It’s a trap—” he cried hoarsely and bolted for the door. 32 in Disguise PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION BY LEJAREN &. HILLER GIRARDEAU “You have been drinking, Mr. Marr. There is nothing to fear,” protested the gem dealer ashe restrained him. “‘ But why have you come in here?” Marr eyed the merchant with a silly grin. ‘Say ol’ chap, who d’ye take me for?” “T take you for what you are,”’ replied the other smiling; ‘‘Mr. Frederick Marr, man-about town, high liver and hard drinker. At present you have had a little more than you can carry, and you had better sit down.” The young man subsided into a chair, rested his elbow on the table and again became absorbed in contemplation of the ruby. His forehead wrinkled as if his thoughts came with difficulty. His face was flushed, his eyes were round and staring, the lobes of his large ears were elongated and he pulled and pinched one as if to stimulate lagging thought. “What’s the matter with making an earring of it?” he said abruptly. ‘Come, now—that’s original.” “But I can not match it,’”’ the jeweler replied, “and a woman would not care for a single earring?” Marr looked up with an expression of contempt. “A woman? Who said anything about a woman? ... Dll wear it myself. Ill give the Johnnies something to talk about and copy—what?” ‘“That’s as you please,”’ the gem dealer answered calmly. ‘“‘Are your ears pierced?” (Continued on page 88) nner

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§ ‘ COPYRIGHT FHOTE MRS. GEORGE J. GOULD A recent portrait reproduced by special permission Harper's Bazar.

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es, ca Tite at,

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AMERITAN PRESS ASSOCIATION THREE GENERATIONS Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, her oldest son, Cornelius, and his wife and daughter Grace on their way to church. Mrs. Vander- bilt’s two daughters, Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney and the Countess Laszlo Széchényi, are actively interested in the great war, although on opposite sides. Mrs. Whitney is financing a base hospital at Juilly, which is near the Soissons battle line, and on her frequent visits to France she devotes herself to this work. The Countess Széchényi, having broken down under the strain of work in the military hospitals of Vienna, went to Cracow in April to be with her husband whose regiment is stationed there. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

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Sketches by At the winnowing of the modes, the Maison Chéruit sprung a surprise by introducing the redingote fashioned from taffeta or light weight cloth, unlined. The Lewis military hat of black straw and blue satin has an edge em- broidered in white beads. Will the American woman take up the sceptre which the Paris- ienne has been forced tempor- arily to lay down? Will she give the stamp of approval at the winnowing of the modes and thus make the fashion? The war has given to her the opportunity, as Nita Norris has explained, and Paris awaits her decision. " HEY are all gowns that a lady can wear.” With these words Mr. Redfern char- acterized his collection of spring models. To be sure, he might have described with the same foundation of truth any of his exhibitions during the last ten years. But the interesting and unusual tact is that this same phrase can be as truthfully applied to the collections of all the leading couturiers this spring. It matters not where you go—to Chéruit’s, Premet’s, Doucet’s, Jenny’s, any of the authoritative houses you are sure to be impressed by the extreme simplicity of the modes. To the woman with a talent for dress this information will come as a welcome surprise; to the manufacturer, the man in the trade, it revealed a rather disappointing state of affairs. To be quite frank, I believe many of the American buyers were disappointed in the models they saw at the openings. And the whole difficulty lies in their point of view. They had come to Paris in search of the sensational, the bizarre and the freakish; they wanted striking features which they could head-line, as it were, copy and enlarge upon; styles that would at a glance throw into the dis- card all the costumes of the past season. In the past, the French couturiers had fed to them this highly seasoned type of fashion entrées. They delighted in vying with one another in an attempt to spring eccentricities of the modes on men and Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

in nf -\ x \ 7 = = . ferzresnxse5* . YS i. < In this combination frock of white chiffon and black taffeta the skirt is joined to the waist by scal- lops. Lewis faces a white chip hat in corn-flower blue velvet and masses blue daisies and white marguerites. women whom they knew were anxious to pay their money for anything new and striking. They were gay and joyous and vi- vacious in those days, and it amused them to express this jollity, which you breathed in from the very air in Paris, in Li- zarre effects, bright col- ours and in a curious mélange of periods. They knew that later, when the Americans like the Arabs had packed their boxes and departed across the ocean, they would create the real modes for the Parisienne who feels fashions and for the foreigner who under- stands dress as a fine art. Certain American buyers were canny enough to stay or be well repre- sented at these private openings which took place after the Paris ienne had returned from her jauntings along the Coté d’Azure and could give her stamp of ap proval to the creations of the brain and of the heart of the Paris couturiers. But this season the later open- ings were an uncertain quantity

Final Resort o f

The jacket of the white chiffon and black taffeta cos- tume is of the taffeta outlined in scallops, the circular peplum lending the flare.

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The inevitable sparkle of jet is reflected from the fringe with which Jenny outlines the flounces of her popular black net evening frock. King’s blue satin gives a dash of colour to the skirt and corsage. Beer makes the very short and very full skirt of this blue taffeta, embroidered in silver, elaborate by flounces of silver lace and ruch- ings, and tops it with a bodice that is almost severe in its simplicity, the sleeve frill and ruching being the only frivolous touch. and in fact it {| |

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was only a few days ago the rumour was spread that a few of the leading houses would have a second opening in April—and at any rate the French designers had no desire to express their feelings in frivolous fashions. To all of them life had been very real and very earnest during the past eight months. Paris, far more than London, has been seared by the suffering of war, and the French- man of high spirits has been transformed into a 36

\} | \ | i / \ / / Premet adds a deep flounce of black Chantilly lace to a snug fitting coat of white faille which is out- lined with a ruching to correspond with the pointed skirt—one of the originations of this house.

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Pm NITA sevveesnnag ennnes To give to the black Chantiily lacc, which she uses so liberally, a new air, Jenny embroiders it in jet. She drapes the lace skirt over an underskirt of cloth of gold and catches it with a large pink rose. A skirt of black satin Doucet ruffles from the waist-line to the hem and adds a youth-giving bodice lightened by a white tulle collar and vestee. Lewis achieves a clever colour scheme in this ruby red and plum toque. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 NORRIS man of reserve S and dignity. He could not think in _)) terms of gaiety; neither could he create costumes which expressed a joyousness he did not feel. For the honour of France the couturiers held their spring openings as customary, believing that by bringing foreign- ers to Paris, making work for thousands who had families to support and securing coin of the realm of which every one was in need, they were sharing with the man at the front the responsibilities of this perilous period. For the honour of France they gave the best of them- selves in the creations they offered. They showed to the American buyers simple models, it is true, but subtle, wear- able, artistic models such as they would have dis- played at the private openings to the Paris- iennes. There was noth- ing bizarre, nothing start- ling, but everywhere moderation. And the well- dressed Parisienne never goes to extremes. There is no woman of any na- tionality who dresses more simply than the Paris- ienne who knows. It is the unerring clothes instinct which tells her how to wear these simple costumes that has earned for Redfern strikes thz key-note of moderation in a white silk frock striped in black. The bodice is only moder- ately tight, and there is no indication of a waist- line other than the na- tural curve at the waist. The fichu and the sleeve ruffles are of white net. her a world-wide reputation for chic. She can take a perfectly plain hat and tilt it at an auda- 37 A characteristic model from the Mai- Jeanne Lanvin makes effective use of son Chéruit is of marine blue chiffon, black braid as trimming on this dark the belt and the ruffles tipped in seed grey army cloth frock, adding the col- pearls. This hat of snuff-brown satin our in the emerald and garnet embroid- and net, Lewis built for the duchesse ery. Lewis veils a corn-coloured straw de Gramont, using white roses. in tulle and trims it with ostrich tips. cious angle and at once we exclaim “ Ravissant!’ The Parisienne demands, too, that her clothes shall express her individuality. Consequently the Paris couturier offers to her a variety of styles, and this season he is offering them to you in America as well. There is no one fashion; there are many fashions. Choose a becoming frock and you will be well dressed. There are the Victorian modes with flaring skirt and plain, flat bodice—all express ing dignity and reserve; there are the beruffled and beflounced Second Empire frocks; there are narrow skirts veiled with billowy tunics, and there are skirts frankly clinging such as Catflot still shows in ‘ther evening gowns. There are even traces of the Russian influence, as one glance at Dovcet’s most successful costumes will prove to you. It is for the American woman to wield the influence and precedent of the Parisienne and select the modes she believes the best. These will then become the fashion. In other years the Parisienne has made authoritative this winnowing of the modes. This year her heart is elsewhere, and she cares little for outer apparel. Will the American woman take up the sceptre? Will she? I wonder, so does Paris. And if she takes up the sceptre, which the war has thrust into her hand, will she reserve the right to modify and change the modes as they are of fered to her? Will she, for instance, accept the full skirt in its most extreme form? Or will she demand certain modifications in the name ot grace and charm? As yet the Parisienne has not welcomed the very tull skirt, but then the Parisienne is shrugging her pretty shoulders this season and frankly avowing that she is not interested in clothes. Other than as a dancing skirt, the extremely full skirt has little to recommend it. Is this the reason there are persistent whisperings to the effect that the narrow skirt has not lost caste entirely? Cer tainly, it is worth while to ponder a minute after looking at the models which Premet has sent to the Panama Exposition. Whisper it softly, but some of the skirts were unmistakably narrow. Perhaps the pendulum has swung already to its extreme limit, and the very full skirt is to pass into oblivion along with the hideously ugly hobble af- fair, and we are toenjoy in our skirts the moder- ation which characterizes other phases of the (Continued on page 96)

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Deeuillet succeeds in making the full circular skirt becoming by add- ing a close fitting yoke embroidered in tan cot- ton. The informality of the blouse makes this blue serge model delightful for the morn- ing. Réboux gives his sailor a tailored air by a crown of black satin and black and white quills. Deeuillet has not overlooked the mili- taire entirely, for there is a suggestion of the soldier’s jacket in this trig belted and well- pocketed model in sand- coloured pongee. Plaits at the side give the freedom for movement. A double row of pink roses attract the eye to the unusual outline of the Lewis hat. Deeuillet sprinkles jet effectively over a black tulle frock, bordering the flounces with it and making the corsage of motifs from which hang strands weighing down the tulle over the hips to conserve the slen- der silhouette. N many ways the effects of the war on women’s fashions have not been as deep as one wovld have expected. Indeed, in a cer- tain measure, they have been scarcely notice- able, except to the professional initiated into the secrets of what would have taken place had not the war broken out. The lack of mill- hands has not appreciably affected the output of materials, and women have had an abundance of cloth, serges and gabardines from which to choose. Silks, too, have been procurable in sufficient variety to please the average woman, and only he | or she who wishes to create exceptional gowns for unusually fastidious women has suffered from the lack of them. Dull silks are more favoured than the brilliant ones, and those with a slight body are preferred to the decidedly supple ones. Silk serges, taffetas, faille and certain foulards are all good, and the neutral shades predominate. Mate- rials for lingerie gowns are plentiful and more fasci nating than ever. Thanks to the favour which browns and tans and khakis have enjoyed, the lack of dyestuffs has not been too keenly felt. Colours a plenty were to be had, the only difficulty lay in obtaining a complete series of them, but this the average woman did not require. Not for years have colours been so gen- erally becoming as this season; the soft blues and pinks, the delicate greens and sparkling yellows are a decided relief—and to most women a becoming one—from the violent colours of a few months ago And with the delicacy of colouring has come a certain delicacy of pattern and style which, too, is most attractive after the bizarre and astonishing attempts of before the war. The war seems to have cleared away so many unnecessary things; it has swept away all the efforts to be recherché, it has killed the dlasé, the supercivilized, so to speak, and has brought back the simple and the natural. The perfect dress of to-day is the dress that appears to have been created with the least effort. The lines must be simple, unafiected. The exotic has no longer a place in our lives, neither does it have in our dress. For after all, tashions must follow the tendencies of the times. F-ench women to day are coping with the realities of life, the artificial is out of date. And they dress accordingly practic al suits for getting has the new shoulder yoke. Harper Basar. May, tors 38 Deeuillet shows his idea of a practical suit in this dark blue Palm Beach cloth model with black silk embroidery and trimmings. The blouse of tarnished gold crépe de Chine By DC@UILLET Deewillet designed this evening gown of white tulle threaded in silver for an American woman. Ribbons in Nattier blue fasten the waist and form the gir- dle, caught at the side by a cluster of pink roses. about in, and gowns built on simple lines for evening wear. The practical, in the tailor-made, means a skirt wide enough to move in easily, but not exagger- atedly ample, and the type of jacket in which the wearer feels most comfortable. Many women prefer the short, jaunty jacket, buttoning up the front and single-breasted. It is rather full in the back and flares about the hips. The suit in thé sketch is of dark blue Palm Beach cloth with black silk embroidery and trimmings. The skirt fits snugly around the hips and accentu- ates slightly the so-called natural waist. To be worn with this suit is a practical blouse of tarnished gold crépe de Chine, trimmed with a double row of steel buttons. The sleeve is new, a combination of the yoke effect and the long line from neck to wrist which is so becoming and which does away with the bagginess of the kimono. Embroidery has come back again, both for afternoon and evening gowns, and on the latter, some of the simpler trimmings, such as ruchings, gatherings and garlands of flowers, are most effective. Much tulle always gives a vapourous effect to a gown, and nothing is so pretty in tulle as shirrings and flounces. An evening gown ordered by an American woman, who has been in Paris almost all season but who has now returned to America, is of white tulle, threaded with rows of silver. The corsage is quite simply draped over the shoulders, and the little ruffle on the edge of the sleeve gives a good line to the arm. Ribbons in Nattier blue fasten the waist in front and form the belt, which is attached on one side by a cluster of very deep pink roses. Many women prefer black for cvening gowns and I am enclosing a sketch of one. The bodice and yoke are of jet motifs over a foundation of tulle. The skirt is a series of tulle flounces bordered with jet. Huge strands of jet connect the points of the yoke and weigh down the tulle about the hips so as to form a slender silhouette. PR RHE es! ET Dea ec mae TO PORN Sc ae

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EDS £2 ETI There is charm in the very shapelessness of this envelop- ing wrap of silvery grey silk gabardine. Only the merest sug- gestion of a waist-line is given by Callot with the smocking. One of Evelyne Varon’s large hats with quills as trimming.

In this afternoon wrap of green taffeta Calfot emphasizes the snugness of the waist-line, and gives the garment a cheery air by a lining of black and yellow and green plaid, which she also intro- duces in the generous collar. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 There are no Paris couturiéres more averse to publicity than Callot Soeurs. To atl ecor- respondents and artists their doors are closed. Yet here are six authentic sketches of the best models ~s shown at their ; opening. To have f obtained them is /[ we ) an achievement. ey < Though Calfot retains the long straight lines in her evening frocks, she does add fulness to her skirts by a plaited underskirt similar to this one of green plaited satin. The overdress of black satin is embroidered in green and the upper part of the corsage is of black satin. In fact, Callot even shows plaited skirts of un- mistakable fulness on several of her most popular evening models. To be sure the material is a filmy tulle. In this dinner frock she has added a bodice of filet lace girdled in Grecian fashion by bands of pearl and gold embroidery. $9 In Callot’s tailored suits she achieves her fulness through the medium of plaits as in the skirt of this white serge suit. Another new touch is the outline of dark blue ribbon, attracting the eye to the flare of the tunic and of the peplum of the jacket One of the most surprising models was a com-

bination cape and coat of mustard-coloured velours de laine lined with peacock blue satin veiled by chif- fon in the same tone. Camille Roger tucks two small red roses into the dark blue taffeta bow of her hat.

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Youth—it is in every line of the frock shown in the upper left-hand corner. It is in the nonchalant and vague cut of the jaunty little jacket cleverly slashed to reveal the plaited linen blouse; it is in the two pockets reminiscent of the schoclboy’s most cherished possession; it is in the great collar which hugs the neck, and it is in the plaited skirt deeply hemmed by the green cloth. There is the same happy, incon- sequential spirit in the frock reproduced in the opposite corner. Exploited in green cloth, it is the very acme of simplicity, that baffling, evasive simplicity which de- mands the hand of an artist. The collar, though high, is opened in the front to give comfort, and the waistcoat is of white linen. For the spring days there is the robe tailleur, sketched just below, which is at its best when developed in blue serge. A relieving touch comes in the black and white silk collar and cuffs, and in the black satin doublet. Hlarper's Basar, Ma 1o1s Another jaunty costume of dark blue serge and black satin appears in the lower left corner. Again the spirit of youth has been captured in the sleeveless bolero drawn through a buckle at the throat, the sleeves being of the black satin. There is just a suspicion of shirring at the waist-line. Lisere straw has been twisted into shape for the hat, and a crown of dark green leather added. Green straw has been folded into the semblance of an envelope to form the hat shown at the top of the page, and sprays of black Paradise shoot out from the open- ings. Below are two hats, both inteaded for the bright days of summer. One of white silk is faced with black satin. the two embroidered stick-ups terminating in tiny black aigrettes. The other of black velours is faced with white straw and gar- landed in roses. Of unmistakable Chinese origin is the white straw hat. in the cir- cle, with orange, black and white ribbon and black aigrettes. % bd & ? : bs Ed 3 of — SPELT TL OTE BIT

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a eee Har per’s Was it a Mexican or a native of the Far East who gave the inspiration for the hat at the upper centre of the page? The coarse straw is plaited to form the shading brim, which is trimmed on the underside. A tassel nods from the peak of the crown. Scallops in white straw are the feature of the hat in the lower left corner. Here the cap-like crown is of black satin. Still another style of shade hat to defy the sun’s flirtatious rays is shown in the opposite corner. Of black velvet it is faced in rose straw and bridled under the chin by black velvet ribbons, roses adding their charm as trimming. Green taffeta rib- bon and Lisere straw are combined to form the hat at the lower centre of the page, the corded trimming being weighted with green and black tassels. Black aigrette tips stand like little sentinels around the top of the black barnyard straw turban shown in the upper right corner. Bazar, May, 1915 Les Modes créées a Paris The tailleur worn with this turban is of black taffeta, the touch of something dif- ferent appearing in the marine blue serge veste, the upper part of which is buttoned and the lower forms the sash, knotted in the front. In the opposite corner the blouse of the frock is of printed silk, the full little skirt being of grey cloth. Of cloth also is the wide girdle, the inevitable touch of black appearing in the piping and in the sash-like panel weighted by a tassel. To wear at the country club there is an exceedingly good model, lower left corner, of grey linen and white cloth. The jacket of vague outline is of the white cloth piped in orange and black, and the sleeves, also of the cloth, are buttoned to the linen robe. Another frock appropriate for the same occasion is of checked or plaid silk combined with the plain silk. The surplice draping of the bolero, which is knotted in the back, reveals the plaited linen blouse.

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San

Paquin has feminized the costume of the French guard in this street suit of dark blue serge. She has made good use of the fine black braid, app ying it to the sleeves and in epaulette fashion over the shoul- ders to lend the suggestion of the militaire. And to further carry out this idea has added a high mili- tary collar of white linen. The official sash is re- placed by the Scotch plaid ribbon drawn through a buckle. HE best concrete expression of what the French dressmaking houses are produc ing this year will be found assembled at the San Francisco Exposition in the French National Pavilion, together with the other forms of French art and indus- try. I do not know whether it is to our honour or not, but in France the art of dress is almost ranged indeed, I may say ranged—as a fine art, and many of the gowns which leave the Parisian establishments at the beginning of a season are truly as great mas- terpieces in their way as many a canvas or piece of sculpture. rhe present exhibition will be a representative one, for while it by no means includes all of the fore- most houses of Paris, the collection of models sent by each house numbers five, besides a few children’s dresses and evening wraps, so that the view of the ensemble will give a fairly good idea of the general tendency in French fashions this season. rhe gowns and costumes will be displayed in spec ially provided settings, very similar to those of a theatre, which will afford the opportunity of showing evening, afternoon and morning gowns. Evening gowns will be shown against a background of the terraces of Monte Carlo, with the white build- ings, the deep sky and the allées of pepper trees and fiowering oleanders. Gowns of metallic tissues, Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

French Francisco

Models A es. 8.- AGRE Président de la Chambre Syndicate de la Couture Parisienne Since the creating of costumes is a fine art in Paris, it is only just that the French couturiers should display their masterpieces in the National French Pavilion at the San Francisco Exposition. Through the efforts of M. Aine, Beer, Callot, the Maison Chéruit, Deeuillet, Doucet, Jenny, Jeanne Lanvin, Paquin, Premet, and Worth have sent representative models.

Sketches by ww S or ei SF, , oH —— a. 5 eS = eee -s; ".< Does the clinging skirt portend a swing of the pendulum away from the very full skirt? Certainly, Premet has selected a narrow model for this téte de négre satin with tunic of cobwebby lace and corsage of embroidered beige-coloured mousseline. A curtain of brown lace falls from the téte de négre straw hat.

. 2 aes Exposition

One of the most enthusiastic sponsors of the Vic- torian modes is Beer, and it is not surprising, there- fore, to find him using organdie for the frilly, bil- lowing skirt of this midsummer frock. To it, he adds a prim little jacket of navy blue taffeta held in snugly at the waist-line by a folded belt, and freshens it with a vestee, collar, cuffs, sleeve puffs, and jabot of the organdie. ¥ brocades, and diaphanous silks abound, and in evening gowns the long, clinging line still persists, but it is veiled by reams of vapourous tulle, and the brilliancy of the texture is softened by gauze. For young girls, short frocks are still favoured, and yards of billowy ruffles and fluffy net characterize them. The Paris races, at the pesage, present an opportunity to show afternoon gowns. If the ma- terial is light, flounces and ruffles are almost certain to be found. The uneven hem gains much in favour and is becoming over dainty foot-gear. And the third setting, that of the Promenade by the famous sources at Vichy, shows the Parisienne on vacation, taking her morning constitutional. She is garbed accordingly, in immaculate linen suitings, in new patterned cottons, and in crépes. es It is our hope that these fifty models, exhibited in a group, will give a definite impression of what French dressmakers are fighting for now, and what they have always been fighting for—namely, sim- plicity and harmony. The French woman has al- ways dressed with individuality, and with the ex- ception of women ot a certain class, eccentricity is never tolerated. The most Parisian dress is not the most startling, but the most subtly becoming. A very popular play once hinged on this idea. In the first act, the young woman from the country was most beautifully but crudely dressed, in vivid shades

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which brought out her dark hair and good colour- ing, perhaps, but which branded her as provincial. In the last act she had become Parisienne and wore only the palest and most exquisite shades which gave her a delicacy and finesse one would have thought unattainable. But this is an old story to the American woman who dresses in Paris. It seems not out of place to mention it again, however, at a time when the French dressmaking houses are trying to rid themselves of the pernicious outside influences that for the last few years have invaded the Parisian market and foisted upon the public models called “ Parisian,’ but which in reality were foreign in inspiration or else exaggerated copies of the real French models. Since the war has broken out, we may now admit openly what we often chafed under in secret, namely, that under the cover of a Parisian estab lishment, many houses of foreign inspiration launched so-called Paris fashions which had nothing of the Parisian about them, and which, by their exaggeration, caused the association of the two ad jectives, exotic and Parisian. As long as our coun- try was supposed to maintain friendly relations with the countries represented, it was difficult for Parisian dressmakers, as a body, to protest. But now those reasons no longer exist, and one of the first things which the Dressmakers’ Syndicate did after the war broke out was to dissolve itself and to form a Syndicate of “Parisian Dressmaking Houses,” which accepts as members only houses of really French origin and inspiration. The Syndicate is, at present, engaged in the cre ation of a special trade-mark which may be used by the members on their stationery, boxes, linings or waist-bands, and imitators or usurpers of this trade-mark will be prosecuted with all the rigour of the law. No foreign dressmaking house will now be able to pass off its own models as the “latest French creation,” since the trade-mark will only be per mitted in the authentic and original French models. Copies of the French models may be marked ** Copy of model by X.”” In this way, when a woman buys a dress in the United States or other countries, she will know by the mark in it whether it is the authen tic model or a copy of that model, or simply a model designed by the local house. ‘The Parisian Dress- makers’ Syndicate’s Trade-mark will, therefore, be a sort of a guarantee and certificate, and as far as we can see, ought to satisfy both the customer and ey the shop as well as the original French ay SIN) house. By this measure, we hope to y protect ourselves, and also the woman who cares for Parisian clothes and who It is regal, this evening gown ~ wishes to be sure that she gets them. ~ — Are we to have the princess of cloth designed by Premet. " ) Over the fourreau of gold cloth, SS Zr] + and a surprisingly clinging one, is dropped a tunic of gold tulle mode again? Paquin heralds its return in this frock of blue tussore with unbroken line from the neck to the hem in the front and in the back. A nov- elty is introduced in the belt of embroidered in blue and out- lined in ermine. The corsage of gold tulle is embroidered in black braid, the squares being varicoloured stones and the of marron and silver. sleeves are of blue tulle. A sketch of this wrap of silver embroidered rose taf- Ruffles and puffings lend the Victorian atmosphere to this Beer frock fashioned from black faille, a fabric as old-timey as the mode. In contrast to the frilly skirt is the simple little bodice with rounded décol- letage and quaint puffed feta was sent by Premet to Harper’s Bazar and pub- lished in the January issue. It only partially veils a frock of white satin embroidered in pearls with an apron effect of gold and silver lace, sleeves. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

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Hats of the Hour. from Maria Guy The Hats of the Hour in Paris— here they are. Maria Guy, the famous milliner, has selected her latest creations to be shown exclu- sively in Harper’s Bazar and has posed them on the Woman of the Hour, the beautiful Forzane. A fold of black maline forms an airy halo on the An immense bow of black tulle, poised lightly ’ but effectively at the back of a small black straw shape charming for the Bois, takes on a new air when outlined in a black jet beading. all black evening hat Maria Guy has made for Forzane. The huge bow of black moire, however, lends the cachet to the hat. Through a veil darkly—a téte de négre tulle curtain—one sees the glorious eyes of Forzane, while the entire flesh-coloured straw hat is clouded in a mass of the illusion. A hatpin of ostrich is the only trimming—and it On another of the small shapes, so becoming to requires no more elaboration —on this hat of white Forzane, Maria Guy has dotted tips of black ostrich 7 shiny straw with indented brim and crown of snuff around the crown, allowing them to peep coquet- } coloured moire. tishly over the brim. u NCE more Parisians are delighting in presses the spirit of the times. Her plain tailor- the Bois. It has been given back to us made suits and unobtrusive hats attract and please with all the power and charm of spring. because they are a concrete expression of the ‘‘suita- Like a bad dream seem the days when ble,” the appropriate. Very fascinating is Forzane herds of cattle were grazing at Long in the hat of brilliant white straw with the uneven, champs, when flocks of sheep spoiled indented brim. The crown is of snufi-coloured - : ; Pp 5 : P oe te ; i the Bagatelle lawns rhe grass is softer and greener moire, and the only trimming is the ostrich plume than ever; the pelouses are filled with family groups, rolled so as to look like a huge hatpin thrust frankly sewing, talking or playing; the a//ées are thronged at one side. with promeneurs; the acacias are out, and like the We are making many combinations of satin and delicate rain of some dreamland, fall the quivering straw—the crown of the one and the brim of the shell-pink chestnut blossoms. other—also different colour combinations, blue and Yet the Bois is not like the Bois before the war. white, black and white, for instance. Great care Now the warm sun brings out convalescent soldiers. must be used, however, in such combinations, for a pale men whose vitality has been sapped by fevers hat should never attract undue attention to itself; It shines on many an empty sleeve, and it seems to it should merely be a suitable frame or setting. make more cruel and senseless the loss of both legs a , ar ; This year the most distinctive hats will consist of . . When Maria Guy uses wings as trimming this “i. ‘ ; to young and well-built men, who hold the future s : practically nothing, a sort of elongated skull-cap, a Bs season, she poses them to give the effect of height rere - " Q fi ‘ t in their eyes. And the women, too, have sobered : fitting snugly over the top of the head and sometimes é | . “oer . rather than of width, just as she has arranged the recta ? ° ‘ane | ae ae \ [hey come for their morning walk, but no longer ; : tilting a trifle on one side. Preferably of black, oaiion . white wings on this toque. . Pp ° -. 5 merely to be seen and to see. They dress well they have no trimming except a braided button or : i because the Parisienne cannot help being a coquette, a bit of passementerie. Their chic lies in the way F ingenuity, not in they cover the head, and in the adjustment of the veil which accompanies them. The veil @ ramage lavishness. The days of priceless laces, embroid ‘ eries, jewels and feathers are of the past. In her “ Y , “ is gathered tightly across the face and ears, and either : simple little morning suit or the modest afternoon falls loosely in the back or is tied in a bow which ul i flares in the back and rises a trifle higher than the but their coquetry shows itself in gown, the Parisienne is absolutely charming and appealing. hat. Nothing could be more simple, yet nothing Forzane, who for the last couple of years has been is so effective and elegant. The idea is not shown considered the best-dressed woman in Paris, ex (Continued on page 74 Har per Bazar, Ma 15 14

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a Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 Yue Would you recognize grandmother’s shoulder cape in this frothy bit of plaited tulle and taffeta from J. M. Gidding & Co.? From the treasure house of the past has come also the black moire bag embroidered in steel and iridescent beads shown by J. M. Gidding & Co. An effective frame for the summer girl is this rose- coloured parasol from J. M. Gidding & Co. fringed and caught up at the edges by roses. Her green straw Knox hat is breasted with tobacco-coloured wings, and a demure touch is given to the blouse by the exquisitely em- 'broidered collar and cuffs from the Hand Embroidery Co. The Knox version of the cocked hat is a jaunty . creation of very dark blue straw with a wayward pheasant’s wing restrained from soaring higher by three red straw fantasies. The tulle cape ripples merrily over the shoulders. y .—— YP ST“3 From Peak to Keelson The jabot’s to the fore again in this neck-piece of lace and hand embroidery from the Hand Em- broidery Co. On a white leghorn sailor, crowned in brown silk, Knox poses a white feathe y fantasy. HENEVER the gossip driits to clothes and it is bound to land there when two or more women are gathered together the Woman Who Knows fairly beams. Her know-it-all air engenders in you a summer tem perature, but if you would glow with the same clothes-lore, there is just one method to pursue adopt a seemingly humble attitude and learn at her Russian booted feet. For her, there is no perplexing problem of what to buy for the summer. Has she not attended the dress rehearsal of the sum- mer fashion drama in the South? If you express a doubt as to sports skirts, she will tell you to have them made of piqué and in the narrower ribs, and she relates in enthusiastic terms how stunning Mrs. Henry C. Phipps looked in her trigly tailored skirts—a little fuller, to be sure, for a plait or two is tucked in to give more freedom, but by no means voluminous. And the hem should be turned onto the right side this summer in the cuff effect already adopted on our skirts of serge and other heavy materials. (Continued on page 64) EMA ee \\ It’s not a miniature aeroplane, but spreading white wings which have alighted on this black straw Knox sailor banded in white ribbon dotted in gold. There is the same tendency to flare in the Henry Clay collar. 45 ” twinkle in There’s a “come hither the eyes that peep over the swathings of tulle which women have been affect- ing in the evening, while trivialities of tulle veil, only to entrance, the bare shoulders. In the back these veilings fall in a deep V. A velvet parasol? Yes, but in a rose tint and garlanded with roses that fairly promise you June days and bright sunshine. More of the roses nod on the quaint little bonnet with its window-pane veil, and a curious head-dress, unmistakably Rus- Sian in origin, rises majestically over it, caught at the sides by saucy bows. {/ my J oa \ A NL - - DRAWINGS BY CHRISTINE CHALLE Now what will the oculists rail at? For the new veils, like this lacy confection from J. M. Gidding & Co., have no designs to dance before the eyes, though the mouth is hidden in Turkish fashion. j } t

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-- eee ee T he hast Never has Lady Duff Gordon dem- onstrated more conclusively her genius than in the models displayed at her spring opening. Fashioned from American fabrics, there was in the multiplicity of ideas, in the originality of design, and in the clever “little touches,”’ the unmis- takable hand of a couturiére of international fame. Chicago, Illinois, April, 1915. Dear Mr. Editor: MUST tell you what I think of Chicago, for I am deeply impressed with this metropolis of the West. I think it is a city of the ‘Tangible Now” and of the infinite possibilities of the “Unborn To-morrow.” It does not seem to me it could ever have had a “Past,” everything seems so intensely and vividly ‘‘ Up-to-date,” and practical and comfortable. I certainly do think that in the near future it is going to be one of the Wonder Cities of the world, both for the beauty and the splendour of its parks, its boulevards, its avenues and for the wonderful buildings—when they are all finished. When ? ? Though Lucile designed this fascinating frock for Florence Walton to wear when she is dancing on the stage, it is equally appropriate as a dancing frock for a private evening function. The crinoline is there, but it is hidden under a maze of tulle flounces restrained from flying heavenward by the drapery of embroidered taffeta. \s for fashions—well “le dernier cri’ as worn in New York since Mrs. Vernon Castle launched the mode in November and which has now become quite the general silhouette of every one in the fashionable world there, has not yet arrived in this great City of To-morrow. This surprises me, as everything else is so “up-to-date.” The outline here is still that of last summer and autumn, with the terrible shapeless waist-line somewhere down near the knees, the line that I have always fought against and hated. It worries me to see such beau- tiful women and girls (the feminine beauty of Hear per Bazar, May, 1915 Word in Even in her bridal gown Lucile adds the crinoline, and she goes a step further and makes the gown still more unusual by touches of delicate green satin. The foun- dation is of a heavy white satin clouded in net and over it all falls the veil of net. Chicago is world-known) dressed in such démodé garments. I'll whisper you alittle secret—I hope soon to have the privilege of keeping the “beautiful Chicago ladies’’’ out- line up-to-date, and you know this is the most important factor in get- ting a reputation for / being well-dressed. For some time I have had tantalizing invitations og from the highest quarters here to open one of my *Luciles,” and now that I have found a suit- able house for the purpose on the North Shore Drive, I have decided in the near future to bring all I have of the best and offer it to Chicago, which, I consider, is going to be one ot the great cities of the future. All of the shop fashion parades have come and gone in New York, leaving their audiences con- vinced that the models and styles and silhouettes created here during this spring by the American dressmakers, who had faith in themselves and strong patriotism, will send a fashion note out to all the countries of the world. These audiences are con- vinced, too, that in the fashion records of the future you may expect to see written “Robe 4 la améri- caine” or “Jaquette New York” or “Polonaise Chicago,” et cetera, just as one sees, looking back to the fashions of 1775 to 1785, “ Robe a la Turque,” or “Caraco a la Anglaise,’ when some interesting event was taking place in the countries whose names were thought worthy by the Parisienne of that date to be given to her beloved “confections.” It is some subconscious influence of war that has 40 Fashions By LADY DUFF GORDON (Lecitle ) White silk braid in various widths lends a most unusual effect to this afternoon frock of black chiffon which Lucile has aptly named “ King Zebra.” Quite as surprising is the arrangement of the braid on the bodice. And the surprise of sur- prises is the window-pane hat of black tulle.

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Pod | y ‘ ie | ! / | / \ VA a ian RCE oa Dedede The dance sartorialized is this purple tulle con- fection, the only substantial part of which is the quaint fittle bodice of purple satin. Demure little capes of the tulle are caught in the front by a cluster of old-fashioned posies of various colours. A black lace bonnet is tilted over one eye. Harper's Bazar, May, 101s There is the spirit of jollity and levity in this dancing frock of apple- green net calling forth the name, “The Carnival.” A sash of satin only casually restrains the bouffant tendencies of the net, while a wreath of blue berries trailing over the right shoulder strikes a new colour note on the corsage. ouront Demure only in colour is this dancing frock of smoke-grey taffeta which Lucile designed for Florence Walton. The rippling pannier-like tunic flares over a petticoat made up of layer upon layer of the tulle, matching the gauzy fichu. made us creators of modes hark back to the period of the crinolines and small dainty waists. This was forcibly brought to my notice the other night at that most marvelous “‘movie”’ called “The Birth ot a Nation.” Have you noticed that among all the horrors of the war the dear little women of that period of American history are all dressed in the fashions of to-day? And how dear and sweet and feminine they look! I advocate this “look” with all my heart, with just a few little cautions—don’t wear a full rippling skirt and crinoline while motor- ing or when taking part in any sport; stick fast to the practical, plain, classical coat and skirt, as nearly like the garments of men as you can make them. I will allow you a fuller skirt than during the past three years in order to give more freedom to your movements, but not much fuller and the fulness must be disguised in flat plaits to keep the straight, boyish silhouette, suitable to the simple tailor coat. But when at home or at any festivity which is not sport, let your tempestuous petticoat and crinoline and rippling six yards of fulness in your skirt hem have full sway, and either let your skirt touch the ground by two inches, as in 1845, or let it be seven or eight inches off the ground, as in 1830, showing pretty, dainty ankles and foot- wear. You must decide on one of these two lengths, for any deviation in between for this full floating skirt turns the smartest lady in the land into a dowdy looking frump. Believe me, this is truth. I am sending you some sketches of very up-to- date ‘‘outlines’’ and ideas which I have used in gowns made for celebrated people during the last month. How do you like them? They are put (American fashions worn by American women and have not yet seen the light of day in London or Isn't it jaunty?—this walking suit of heavy tan Paris, though I shall send them there. tussore trimmed in appropriate tailored fashion by braid. The colour note is sounded in the belt and in the lining of the jacket. And on the flower-pot nl r hat, posies of many brilliant hues bloom as con- fidently as in nature’s gardens. ~~ 47

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Spring has arrived, indeed, when Mrs. Ver- non Castle dances onto the stage in “Watch Your Step” dressed in the loveliest of yellow frocks tipped in delicate green, which Lucile justly calls the “Daffodil.” The shot yellow taffeta coat embroidered in various tints of mauve reveals an underdress of yellow tulle dropped over a flesh-coloured chiffon petticoat. That Carlotta Monterey does not overlook the charm that may be expressed in apparel when she makes her midnight visit to the Count (Lou-Tellegen) in “Taking Chances” is clearly portrayed, for there is much to appeal to the artistic senses in the chiffon whimsicality, sparkling with rhinestones as an evening gown might and yet in cut suggesting the informality of a boudoir robe. Harper's Bazar, Ma wuire Carlotta Monterey and Louw-Tellegen Aimee Dalmorcs 18 Elsie Ferguson When Elsie Ferguson went on the road in “The Outcast,” she took with her a tea-gown which is sure to awaken the demon of envy in many women’s hearts. Of gold and cream brocade it hangs in long, graceful lines from the shoulder to the floor. A purple sash weighted by heavy gold cord and tassels marks the Em- pire waist-line and white chiffon softens the neck and shoulders. It is pity that Aimee Dalmores’ dutics as 4 maid in “Taking Chances” prevent her from wearing this effective all black ever ng frock. Jenny is the sponsor for this popular model in which the clinging silhouette is retained by the close fitting fourreau of black satin and the ful- ness supplied by the tulle overdress banded in jet sequins graduated in widths.

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2S R ee ee ot Aa

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KS OX To wear at the Country a : Club John Wanamaker has ™ “Ge a suit of black and white \ check banded in black braid, the striped belt drawn through a silver buckle. A checked gingham band caught by a beaded or- nament trims the blue straw hat. c

The subtle drapery of this dinner frock marks it as a Callot creation. In the model imported by J. M. Gidding & Co., the material is a black charmeuse outlined in king’s blue embroidery. Bands of the same embroidery outline the décolletage and the chiffon sleeves. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

In this suit imported by Bonwit Teller & Co., the Maison Chéruit shows its sponsorship of contrasting materials by making the jacket of blue and white check and the flounced skirt of blue serge. Black wings soaring upward lend height to a sailor of black glazed straw. In this frock of bottle-green taffeta from John Wanamaker, the effect of fulness has been achieved by side pieces out- lined in scalloping. The same decoration appears on the revers flanking the vest of black and tan checked taffeta, the buttons of which are con- tinued on the deep girdle. 49 The Clothes Passing Show

ees ail pe _ = AY ai sa Oe Gh OVS b cori Vena cal Spi AA Ae, DSSS. 2 . ye -+ : <A LANs, . 2 ie aang tn <- os / ? = a 4224) 1 Ex ce “Ny + eh % Tv ae.’ en ‘ — »* q =~. ‘ i ea

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The femininity of the

present modes delights the heart of Jeanne Lanvin, who

rejoices

in such picturesque touches as beaded but-

tons, coquettish bows

and a tucked chemi-

sette of which she has made use in this black and blue flowered taffeta frock imported by J. M. Gidding & Co.

Frills of the material and cording plest of trimmings make this frock of white net, from Bonwit Teller & Co., the epi- tome of daintiness. And the horsehair braid hat, banded in black velvet ribbon and gar- landed in pink roses, completes the picture. the sim-

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Hickson & Co. might call this de- lectable dancing frock “A Summer Twilight,” for it pictures a filmy greyish cloud touched by the rosy rays of the great ball of fire as it sinks below the horizon. The petal-like skirt is a maze of grey and pink tulle which dances and ripples with every step of the wearer. Its bouffancy is restrained at the waist by a girdle of satin, and a mere wisp makes up the corsage. ‘Ge f \ ~ j- \ / / ) Another concession to the demand for fulness is made by Callot in the three flounces of this blue and green plaid silk frock imported by Simcox. The nonchalance of the bodice is delightfully youth-giving. A saucy blue velvet bow is poised on a blue lemonade straw hat. Har pei Bazar, Ma =e K \ WA One of the most unusual of the Paquin models is this 1915 princess frock of navy blue gabardine imported by Simcox. The irregular outline of the skirt, so dear to Madame Paquin’s heart, is accen- tuated by the fluted braid, while the embroiderea lingerie guimpe Suggests a peasant inspiration. Bands of coloured ribbon are twisted around the high crown of this black barnyard straw hat. 50 Artful Simplicity Braiaaatares seen Dt ttt tH: Jean has evolved a frock that is different by combining a skirt of tan and black checked taffeta and a jacket-bodice of black taffeta. The frill outlining a yoke lends a new air to the full, circular skirt while the unusual girdle would “make” any bodice. On the blue taffeta crown of a white hemp straw hat, she drops a tight cluster of roses. There is youth in every line of this tan gabardine suit from Jeanne Lanvin imported by Hickson & Co. Simple to the extreme in silhouette, it has the characteristic Lanvin touches in the stitched pocket effects, the two narrow black patent leather belts the white braid collar, and the beaded rose. Equally youthful is the modest hat of black rough glazed straw with ostrich fantasy. NRIs CELE MEGS TS OOO RE WP. EI

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Characterizes Yes, its very whimsicali y stamps it as a Jeanne

Tt JV Te Lanvin creation, and Maison Maurice imported it. "1 ‘ / ; ’ It is a curious mélange of taffeta and gabardine. N e Ww M O d e S } , ; ' ( Though the skirt is of taffeta banded in gabardine, \ / a = the bolero is of the woolen material with sleeves of ee \ ' ar ¥ p the taffeta strapped in gabardine. The blue straw ff i a. Lhe 2 / hat is rimmed in daisies. — —.\~ SWI} ¢ ef > WF | a <<"

—— a) <i ——$< ae / Striking in colour and equally To the courtiers of the ceremo-

Surprising in cut is this golden yellow faille frock imported from Premet by Gimbel Brothers. For each flounce of the faille there is a corresponding one of chiffon in the same shade. The unmistakable Premet hall-mark is introduced in the empiécements of yellow and blue embroidery, and the sleeves of chiffon herald sleeves of increased fulness. Only in the back is the plaid sash visible. Very short and very frilly is the skirt of this Beer frock of blue taffeta imported by Franklin Simon & Co. Perky little ruffles of the taffeta bob merrily at either side of the broad panels. The bodice, as is typical of Beer, is very simple, a little embroidery in bronze metal thread adding the decorative touch. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

st nious days of Louis Philippe, Beer owes the inspiration which created this grey taffeta frock imported by Franklin Simon & Co. There is the same pointed vest, though on this model it is fashioned from piqué dotted with china buttons, and a cavalier collar and sleeve puffs of white lawn. The skirt breaks into rippling ruffles below the knees. The large black and white straw hat has a blue grosgrain ornament and streamers. The Maison Chéruit struck an entirely new note when it fostered the tailored suit consisting of a jacket contrasting in colour and material w’th the skirt. In this suit, imported by Gimbel Brothers, the jaunty little jacket is of mus- tard-coloured homespun and the skirt is of navy blue serge. The fulness has been added in a con- servative manner by plaits at the side, and the edge outlined in wool fringe. Plaits, too, are introduced in the jacket.

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Be ES Pen gs Sy get

Harper’s Things from the shops recommended by Harper’s Bazar. Bazar Shopping Service We will do all of your shopping and charge nothing for the service. Address Jane Jarvis, Director, Harper’s Bazar Shopping Service, 119 West 40th St., New York City, New York.

Delft blue or pink linen is applied with hand sewing to this side frill waist of sheer white French batiste and organdie; if pre- ferred, the scallops may be outlined with heavier white linen. From Franklin Simon and Company, $5.75. T has been said—and_ with truth that May is one of the most inter esting shopping months in the whole year. The light weight suits offer ing freedom and comfort, the new sports clothes that seem to tell us of all sorts of good times in the great outdoors, the summer frocks of silk and cotton stuffs, and the dainty accessories, those delightful little coquetries of dress, all make a particularly strong appeal at this time. The shops fairly outdo each other in the excellence of From Best and Company comes this good-looking \ \ skirt of white gab- | ardine at $4.50, j | | and blouse of French batiste hand smocked in pink or | blue, $3.95. 4 —

their offerings, and the subdued hum, the flutter and excitement of buying are evervwhere in the air. The latest arrivals in suits are of silk, and com- binations of cloth and silk. If one has chosen for the spring suit a cloth model, then these late- comers furnish an excellent excuse for the buying of another suit that may be worn through the entire summer, and a suit of dark silk is after all an econ- omy. It is light, cool and sheds the dust readily, qualities that make for comfort and practicality. One especially pretty suit is of black silk with a wide satin stripe and trimmings of broadcloth. Then there are lovely street frocks of taffeta. The three frocks of silk shown on _ pages fifty-two, fifty three and fifty-four have been selected from among the best that the shops are showing. <A noteworthy feature of the frock on page fifty-four is the long, graceful line of the sleeve -that wrinkles _ slightly, flares at the wrist and has its slashed points falling over the hand. The ex- tremely wide skirt has, in its’ soft clinging folds, elim- inated every objec- tion to the wide, full skirt; a well applied bit of elab- oration appears in knife-plaited folds A girlish frock from Franklin Simon and Company is of accordion plaited taffeta, the well-cut, becoming bodice has a collar of fine white organdie, $18.50. Hat $12.75.

For luncheon on the porch, the housewife will like this hand em- broidered linen luncheon set, from McGibbon and Company, consist- ing of a centrepiece and twelve doilies. $5.00. of silk outlining its scalloped bottom. The natural complement of such a skirt is the smart little pointed jacket, its high stock of pale blue linen overlaid with a demure Quaker collar of white organdie. As this frock comes only in the street shades, navy blue and black, a dash of colour is given by the little old-fashioned bouquet and the gold thread embroid- ery of the half sash. Worn with this is a hat of leg-

Quite elaborately hand embroidered in tints to match the girdle, a gown of French voile, from Bonwit Teller and Company, takes a foremost place in the summer ward- robe. $19.50.

Turiish towels with coloured borders, at the left $1.25 each, and in the centre $3.00 the dozen. Friction towels at the right, 75 cents each. From McGibbon and Company. horn, flower trimmed, a narrow facing of pink crépe outlining the edge of the brim. Both pointed and scalloped is the tunic dropped over a full scalloped petticoat in the gown sketched on page fifty-three. The material is navy or black taffeta, the collar, vestee and undersleeves of white organdie with a trimming of gilt buttons. <A long buckle of pale blue enamel fastens the girdle. Topped by a big pink rose and sprays of old-time flowers, the leghorn hat, with streamers of velvet and underbrim facing of pink crépe, is a fitting ac- companiment to such a dainty frock. To complete her costume and to match the facing of her hat, this little lady has selected from among the newest of the new parasols a flower sprigged one of white taffeta with a stripe of black satin in the border and a handle of white enamel. At the shop from which this was chosen, a similar parasol has sprigs of lavender scattered over the white silken background. A real price exception is found in the frock of taffeta on page fifty-two. Three accordion plaited flounces form a skirt that is modish and graceful. The dainty little bodice is made becoming by a collar of white organdie. The colour choice here is

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SEE MIATA . ons

‘4

The stock and the jabot occupy a prominent place among dainty bits of neckwear. From Franklin Simon and Company comes one of French voile, trimmed with pale pink or blue. $1.95.

navy, brown, bengaise or black. This frock is de- cidedly smart looking in black, when worn with the hat sketched with it— a black straw with black and white striped satin crown, and a bird com- posed entirely of white beads. Afternoon frocks this sea- son have a simplicity that is the joy of the creator, but the despair of the amateur copyist. Fortunately the shops, because of their abundant resources, make it possible for us to procure well-cut models at a price as low, or lower, than those fashioned at home, and that, too, without the risk of failure we encounter when trying to make these Of navy blue taffeta is this unusual gown from Franklin Simon and Company. The undersleeves, vest and collar are of white organdie. $39.50. things for our- selves. The new white _ lingerie frocks are in many instances touched with colour, it may be only a bit of hand embroid- ery wrought in coloured threads, or a belt of soft silk in rose or blue shades, but it adds just the right note. The one piece ‘slip-on’ morning frock sketched on page fifty-three ‘

Of the softest and finest of Belgian linen are these towels, from McGibbon and Company, that come in five beautiful designs. $7.50 the dozen. is of handkerchief cloth, a new fabric that is sure to be one of the successes expected that a materia of the season. It was to be il as much liked as handker- chief linen would be perpetuated in a softer and less crushable material for the lingerie frock. With the appearance of handkerchief linen, the cloth mingles Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

‘, Just a suggestion r \= / ‘ / & of the harem in a boudoir gown of & EF

Hand embroidered pillow cases of fine linen from McGibbon and Company, twenty-two and a half by twenty-six inches, $2.25 each. original, and, because it is so becoming to the slight figure, has proved to be one of the most popular of the new models. Then, too, it comes in any number of likable and becoming colours, but it is prettiest in pale blue, white or mastique. The collar and vest are of embroidered organdie. The good-looking morning dress on page fifty-five is of ratine, and a pleasing and effective colour scheme is attained by an irregular dash of black on a white background and a buckle of deep red silk at the waist. P The careful selection of sports clothes —— orchid crépe de Ts for the spring and summer is a matter Chine and marqui- feof MMI of real importance, for style and com- sette teimmed with e— I \ fort that will stay under all sorts of crystal beads and bet { i N trying conditions must be secured, silk. From Frank- * \ \ ‘ f Skirts, of course, come first, and of lin Simon aad Com- W- ‘el att these the well-dressed woman must pany, $29.50. ee | have many in order that she may ee y be always immaculate. For tramp- the softness of batiste. Fe This frock comes only in ‘ . ; white, but it is strikingly Wh YP trimmed with — striped Y f linen, and you may order an it with rose, green, Co- —/ 3 hansen penhagen or lavender / trimmings. Sheer, fine French voile is used in abundance for the cool, dainty frocks that are so neces- sary when the long, sunny afternoons of summer are here. On page fifty-three is = sketched an all white jit gown of this sheer mate- | Bs | = rial; girdled in soft silk ~ of a lovely delicate i colour, its freshness and becomingness are easily imagined. This comes in white belted with rose, Copenhagen blue, or green. More elaborate is the voile dress sketched on page fifty- two with its skirt trim- ming of wavy lines of hemstitching, and both waist and skirt hand embroidered in the most exquisite of colourings White handkerchief the material used in a morning *S-] “94 dress from Bonwit Teller and <i Company. A striking The high lace ruche at trimming of rose, lavender, \ t- —- the neck is detachable, green, blue or black. so the dress may do double service and be worn in the afternoon and for evening, on informal occasions, throughout the summer. Among the fabrics for summer dresses, none has succeeded in taking the place of linen; as this is a season when linen is particularly well adapted to the modes, it comes in lovelier colourings and weaves than ever before. The gown pictured on page fifty- five is a happy combination of embroidered voile with linen, the sleeves being of the voile. This frock may be bought in pale blue, pink, lavender or tan linen, with the coin dot in the white voile sleeves embroidered in colour to match the linen. Copied from a Beer model, the linen coat-dress on page fifty-four has the excellent lines of the 53

cloth is Hy in oerias oe feature 2 Oe a of this costume s the striped " , eS $8.95. Se o—A Daintiness and practicality are so well combined in another hand embroidered gown of white voile, from Bonwit Teller and Company, that it may be safely recommended to fill many needs in the wardrobe. It ts girdled with soft silk in rose or blue. $10.00.

on an a

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Be oY Sayre Meiicneee a es oe ep ing and for golf, there are skirts of tweed and cor- duroy, and for the warmer days the highly satisfac- tory white cotton gabardine which comes in both imported and domestic weaves. In addition to splendid wearing qualities, this cotton gabardine lends itself to good tailoring and returns from each visit to the laundress looking fresher and lovelier than ever. No starch is required in these skirts, and therefore they do not crush and rumple in the distressing way that the skirts of other summers did. Two models of cotton gabardine, selected from the many, because of their unusual values, repre- sented in lines, material and workmanship, are pictured on pages fifty-two and fifty-five. For a game of tennis on a warm morning, no waist could be more attractive than that from Franklin Simon and Company illustrated with the the gabardine sports skirt on page fifty-five. Of sheer handkerchief linen, its collar and cuffs show a deep hemstitched hem of pale green, blue, lavender Not least among the charms of this English corduroy sports coat, from Franklin Simon and Company, are the exquisite colourings in which it comes—green, rose, puity, Delft blue and white. $19.75 or pink. The waist at the top of page fifty-two, a copy of a recent importation, is of French batiste and combines organ- die with the batiste in the collar, cuffs and front; in order to be strictly en regle, its front is bordered with col- oured linen, hand stitched in the old- time herring-bone. If preferred, this waist may be ordered in all white, or in white trimmed with pink or Delft blue. An- other striking waist is that sketched on page fifty-four. Of handkerchief linen, the collar and cuffs feature Belgian blue and dull red linen in a most effective way. The flowing tie is of blue linen, and a touch of the militaire is added by a trim- ming of small gilt buttons. For the woman who likes the dainti- From Beer comes this striking looking frock, and B. Altman and Company have copied it in pale blue, sand or white linen, with collar and cuffs of embroidered organdie. $18.00. Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 aN Two Colonial bags at the right—the upper one costs $5.00, and the lower one $5.50. From Frank- lin Simon and Company come two bags—one of black pin seal at the upper left for $5.00, and below a combination of brocaded tapestry and suéde, $9.50. One of the smartest of dark blue taffeta street frocks comes from Frankl'n Simon and Com- pany. The sleeves, slashed at the wrist to fall in deep points over the hand, are graceful in line. $45.00. est sort of a waist with just a slight touch of colour, nothing could be pret- tier than the hand smocked waist from Best and Company, worn with the sports skirt at the bottom of page fifty-two. It is of French batiste smocked in pale blue or pink and trimmed with small crochet buttons. the soft graceful folds of the front fall- ing in lines that are almost universally becoming. For a hand _ smocke:. waist, the price, three dollars and ninety-five cents, is really remarkable. The trig little jacket of English corduroy, somewhat on the lines of a reefer, is one of the best models for a sports coat, and the rather rough, fuzzy finished corduroy used for these coats is much prettier than the velvets of other days. On page fifty-four is 54 Quaint and picturesque is this beflounced frock of fine white French voile from the Avedon Company. The girdle of rose, pale blue or lavender gives the requisite touch of colour. $12.75. just such a corduroy coat. The back is made with a yoke and two Norfoik plaits. It is lined throughout with soft silk, and comes in a variety of good col- ours, green, rose, putty, Delft blue and white. Worn with a white skirt or with a corduroy skirt of the same shade, it completes an ex- tremely smart outing costume. The white flannel hat sketched with it has a binding and band of bright green or dull red suéde, and the price is five dollars. And now for those airy bits of feminin- ity, negligées. The one sketched on page fifty-three looks as if it might have come straight from a Turk- ish harem, doesn’t it? Appropriately, it is called the “harem boudoir gown.” It is Tiny buttons trim a blouse of sheer white hand- kerchief linen that com- bines a touch of Belgian crépe de Chine with blue and red ‘n the collar marquisette coat, its and cuffs. From Franklin elaborate trimming Simon and Company, $4.95. is of silken braid so applied as to form a Greek key design. Silver tassels finish the sash. It may be worn falling in straight lines as a boudoir gown or fastened with clasps to form the Turkish trousers. The colours in which it comes are Chartreuse, Callot, rose, orchid, light blue and pink. The negligée of dotted white crépe, page fifty-five, with trimmings of Valenciennes and soft satin ribbon of pale pink or blue is another graceful model. For a boudoir robe that is practical and durable, as well as extremely pretty, the gown of washable Oriental cotton crépe, on the same page, i3 cere re

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Longer A SERNA sg aN aa unexcelled. In pink, Copenhagen, light blue and lavender, its white embroidery is in designs of rose, wisteria, chrysanthemum and cherry. Coming back to clothes for street wear, we must not forget the new bags and purses, four of which are illustrated on page fifty-four. The Colonial bag of black pin seal, good-looking and conservative, is that roomy kind that is so much liked for general service. The bag of elephant calf comes in a wide variety of colours, and you may order it, if you choose, to match your suit. The stock colours are black, brcwn, sand, putty, Belgian blue, a dull dark green and purple. A more dressy affair is the bag of black suéde and blue tapestry brocaded in gold threads, indeed, it is one of the smart- est conceits of the season. All May-time shopping does not mean the buying of clothes.. The shop- keepers have _ pre- pared some special offerings for the home, many of which make lovely gifts for the June bride. On pages fifty-two and fifty-three is shown a goodly collection of linens from McGib- bon and Company. There are the bath towels with striped In a frock of pale blue linen from B. Altman and Company, the sheer white voile sleeves are embroid- ered in colour to match. A strap of black velvet holds the embroidered collar in place. $10.75. borders and hems of blue or pink, forty-five by twenty- one inches in size, and since so many extra towels are needed for the summer at the shore or in the moun- tains, the housewife will welcome these at the unus- ually modest price of three dollars a dozen. And here, too, are the old-time iric- tion towels which, applied either before or after the cold plunge, act as a tonic to the skin. These are closet or a most acceptable gift for the bride. Not the least interesting shopping that the house- wife does is the buying of furnishings for that much planned for and talked of bungalow or cottage, or the refurbishing of the country home where each year she finds herself staying later into the autumn. There really seems to be no end to the brilliant procession of new cretonnes and lovely suntast fabrics. At a well-known shop are English linen cretonnes in both floral and conventional designs, some of them so true to nature in colouring that one can almost scent the fra- grance of the favourite flower. And these materials that have the same effect as the quaint, old-time chintzes of great-grandmother’s day harmonize This little girl’s frock is of tan, brown, green, blue or pink toile du black. nord, hand smocked in white. From Company, $2.95. man $5.75. iJ For the morning, here is a gown of white ra- tine with little dashes of the bit of colour given by the dark red belt From B. Alt- and Company, Bonwit Teller and buckle. wonderfully well with the rooms of the country home. In price the imported cretonnes, thirty-two inches wide, range from one dollar and seventy-five cents,to two dollars and twenty-five cents a yard, and when fifty-eight inches wide, they cost from three to five dollars a yard. They have the advan- tage of being washable. Another English material well suited to draperies or cushions is the sunfast poplin that comes in all sorts of figured designs and in avery wide range of plain colours. There is, after all, no material that better combines the artistic with down- right practical wearing qualities. Fifty inches wide, it costs one dollar and fifty cents a yard. Cool and summery are the printed pongees and drapery silks. These, too, come in exquisite colour effects in stripes, floral and Japanese designs. Then there are new a floral designs in American prints, and these are priced from thirty-five to fifty-five cents a yard. For porch or bungalow cush- ions, a crash in college stripes that are vivid and effective is decidedly new, and the college girl or boy will hail with delight needs just From the Orient comes Dainty in fabric and excellent in design is the aegligée of white dotted crépe with trimmings of Valen- ciennes. A blue or pink satin ribbon ties at the back. From R. H. Macy and Company, $2.89. woven in alternate rows of white and natural coloured linen, and sell for seventy- five cents each. Towels with a story are those of Belgian linen shown this boudoir robe of soft clinging crépe in colours that are charming. The hand embroidery is in cherry blossom, rose, wisteria and chrysan- some new cushions of linen in the colours of the beloved Alma Mater. The material, thirty-six inches wide, costs the modest sum of forty-five cents a yard. on the same page. This themum designs. $3.50. shipment of linen left Brus- sels on the seventh of De- cember and has only just been received by McGibbon and Company. Woven from the finest of flax that only Belgium can produce, they were made in the midst of the conflict and by mills located only a very $3.75. few miles from the trenches. This special assortment comes in five different pat- terns, and the linen has that soft mellow finish of the French towels. The supply is, of course, limited, and at seven dollars and fifty cents a dozen they are a valuable addition to the linen Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 Field club sports skirt of imported white gab- ardine with pouch pockets and slightly gathered back, %$6.75. Blouse of handkerchief From Franklin Simon and Company. linen with coloured handkerchief trimmings Among some of the things that are different for the replenishing of the summer home is a charming collection of bluebird glasses shown by Stern Brothers. And, of course, the bluebird, according to tradition, will bring great happiness to its pos- sessor. Among these exquisite bits is a goodly assortment of flower vases and candlesticks in de- signs that are quaint and interesting, and at prices that are most reasonable. At the same shop there are some wonderfully interesting Dutch brasses and silver. There are a few valuable originals and many excellent replicas of quaint old fireside brasses. a eS eee neh A wer on as sae ona

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Har per ee 3s ieee. or Bazar di Hi at a A “lived in” feeling is distinctly evident in this porch. The treat- ment of vines as a ceiling decora- tion is unusual. Courtesy of H. T. Lindeberg. PROTO BY JOHNSTON & HEWITT This porch, serving as a frame to the garden, is treated with simple dignity and suggests a delightful spot for tea rather than a place in which to lounge. PHOTO BY FLOYD E BAKER Here the value of the fireplace as a feature of the enclosed porch is shown, as well as the fountain, in a winter or summer sun-room. PHOTO 8) JONNSTOW & HEWITT The House By ELIZABETH LOUNSBERY ITH the ever increasing ap- preciation of life in the open, the porch has become an important and necessary feature of the country house. Unlike the stereotyped piazza of former days, containing only a few scattered chairs, it has developed into an open- air room with a “lived in” feeling that really indicates how much a part of the house it has become, and how it vies in comfort and coziness with the living-room. For this demand a variety of weather-proof materials for furni- ture and floor coverings has been introduced, and an impulse given to the making of wicker and willow furniture that has reached its height in the porch furnishings of the mo- ment. Because of its durability, this furniture has taken precedence over all other kinds for the covered

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The formality of this porch har- monizes well with that of the grounds and becomes, with its urns of flowering shrubs, a consistent part of the lawn level. PHOTO BY FLOVYO F PeKER A sun-room or cnclosed porch, for all-year-round use, having the appearance of a living-room, yet suggesting by its many windows an outdoor feeliag. PROTO BY *10Y0 € BaKt® Here the porch becomes almost a part of the garden and has the same feeling of intimacy and in- tormality which is again reflected in the furnishings. PROTO BY FESSIE TARSOF FFs open porch and can be found in every possible accessory. For ex- ample, there is the wicker table, with four chairs,—made sufficiently large for breakfast or luncheon use with a solid oak top, which can be covered with a piece‘of chintz to cor- respond with the cushions of the chairs that fit so conveniently around and under the table. Its adaptabil- ity to a small floor space makes this especially desirable, and, inaddi- tion, it dispenses with the usual straight-back chairs, which are hardly comfortable enough for lounging or general porch use Then there is the tea-table, which can be found in a number of conventional sizes and types of which the new wil- low stand, with three shelves and a handle over the top, on large wooden wheels, is especially convenient. It can be readily moved about the porch or, if necessary, taken within doors to be prepared. An attractive variation of the tea- table, too, is seen in the combina- tion seat and table This is made of woven willow in the form of two chairs connected by a high back, and between the chairs is a table sup- ported by a single leg and bracket This is desirable for the thé intime of two persons, or as the centre about which other chairs may be grouped. Chis can be effectively placed in the (Continued on page 84) Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 ay

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© B T is such a garden that William Morris must have had in mind when he wrote, in Hopes and Fears, ‘‘ Large or small, the garden should look both orderly andrich. It should be well fenced from the outer world. It should by no means imitate either the wilfulness or the wildness of Nature, but should look like a thing never seen ex- cept near a house.” I know a garden whose subtle beauty is the result of careful planning. No mad riot of overgorgeous colour is forced upon the vision. Colour there is, of course, but never such as would continually dis- tress tired eyes, for it had been planned with the thought in mind that it would always be within sight of those who might be lounging upon the porch or terrace, or looking out through the win- dows of the sun-room. That simplicity which sug- gests breadth of effect, and which always should be sought for in planning an intimate garden, here furnishes many helpful lessons to the lover of gar- dens. Selecting the site Practical gardening simply consists in knowing where, what, when and how to plant. Where to place the garden is, of course, almost the first ques tion the garden beginner is found to be asking. But no matter how practical one is, a garden should be far more to the garden maker than just a place in which to grow things, and so true success in flower gardening consists also in developing and applying one’s sense of colour and design to the garden mak- Harper's Bazar, Ma 1gls arden y GARDNER ing. Furthermore, there will have to be taken into account the matter of the fragrance of flowers, their succession of bloom and the cultural hints. The garden intimate, fully to fulfil its function, should adjoin or be placed near the house in order that the mistress of its little domain may utilize spare moments to advantage therein, and may watch her garden, as it were, from the porch. There are few houses, which have any grounds at all, that are so placed as not to make possible flower gardens in conjunction with them. A level stretch of ground is, of course, best of all and most commonly the condition at hand. A slope may be utilized, but with more difficulties confronting its transforma- tion—difficulties usually overcome by terracing after the Italian fashion and building up the soil by filling. Abundant sunlight is a matter of prime im- portance to a garden, and although many varieties of plants will grow in slightly shaded places, no garden should be placed where it will not receive sunlight a goodly porticn of the day. A southern exposure is ideal. Nature is generous, but her beauty is not so prodigal as to waste itself on ill-chosen garden sites, or on poor garden soil, both of which make for costly mistakes sufficient to discourage any one. Fortunately our best masters in domestic architec- ture have long since taken into account the fact that the intimate garden can be made to add a note of effectiveness to the architectural scheme, and the houses they design are so placed as to permit the development of gardens under the happiest condi- tions as adjuncts to them. 58 Intim TEALL woman who ate Hedges add greatly to the. beauty and intimacy of a garden, when its plan permits of its being en- closed. The hedge need not be a tall one or yet a broad one, but it should be thickly planted to pro- duce compact growth. If the house is to be occu- pied in winter, hedge evergreens will prove a wel- come addition to the snow time home landscape. No matter how small the garden, it should have one or more paths or walks, broad and well built. The garden whose paths are muddy and unpleas- ant to traverse after a shower never holds as high a place in our consideration as that wherein the paths or walks are properly laid down and well drained. Preparing the soil One might as well give up gardening as to expect poor soil to produce fit flowers. The essenucl pro- vision fer any garden worthy the name is a soil suit- able to the requirements of the plants that are to take root therein. Heavy, soggy soil must be light- ened and drained, sandy soil enriched, and so on. Of course, the consideration of the soil problem does not mean that one has to start forth personally with wheelbarrow and spade, pickaxe and _ pitchfork! All this is a “heavy man’s” work. Nevertheless such work requires intelligent overseeing. Where the intimate garden-to-be is on an extensive estate, the estate gardeners will, of course, intelligently at- tend to the matter, but in preparing the soil for the intimate garden attached to small premises, where the owner probably has to depend on the man-of-all- work or the day helper, it is almost always neces-

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wants to sary for the mistress of the garden to direct its mak- ing. She should know that a friable condition of the earth is necessary for best results, a condition arrived at by spading, turning and breaking up the hard clumps of earth. Fortunately the soil found in most suburban localities is suited to garden pur- poses naturally, with very little required ‘‘ making”’ beyond periodical fertilizing. For flowers a rich soil is desirable. If the earth is too sandy, it must be given a more loamy character, that is to say, it must be “mellowed”’ by working into it clay and silt, and adding fertilizers to enrich it. In the same way a soil that is too clayey must be worked into a proper foundation by the addition of sand and silt. Every garden maker can test soils for herself. A couple of days after a rainfall she will find, on turn- ing up a deep trowel full of soil, that, if it is light and powdery in consistency, it is to be classed as a sandy soil. If, on the other hand, it is plastic, she may know it is to be classed as a clayey one. This basic test will supply the knowledge on which the maker of the intimate garden will proceed, when giving directions as to preparing the flowerbeds and bor- ‘ders. Once the intimate garden is laid out, the soil pre- pared, and one’s choice of what to plant determined, the actual planting begins. I do not believe there is a single garden enthusiast who does not enjoy this. Of course putting hedging, shrubbery and the like in place will be a man’s work, though it will be followed by the garden owner’s keen interest. The seeds of annuals planted this season will, of course, bloom this year. These will not spring up again another season (hence their name), although if al lowed to seed, such seeding may lie dormant through- out the winter months and come forth another spring. Perennials (those plants that bloom sea- son after season) may be seeded now and will then blossom next year and succeeding years. One need not wait so long, however, for perennials already started are always to be obtained, and with a little care these can be transplanted to the intimate gar- den with complete success. Seeds must always be Harper's Bazar, May, 1015 plant her ow Nn “firmed” when put in the ground, that is to say, more or less held in place by pressing the earth down upon them. This permits their rootlets to take hold upon germination, whereas, if left loosely in the soil (particularly those varieties planted in shallow measure) they would be apt to be scattered by chance winds. Transplanting seedlings of any sort should, when possible, be done on a cloudy day. If this cannot be managed, then late in the afternoon should be the time chosen for setting out the plants. Seedlings should always be watered both before and after moving and, until they take firm root in their new surroundings, they must be more or less “cod dled” by being protected from the wilting effect of the sun. Choosing the plants The garden beginner need have no anxiety as to the actual planting of the seeds, for the seed cata- logues and seed packets from seedsmen, whose wares are to be relied upon, always contain explicit direc- tions. The successful intimate garden is not one which will present a festive appearance in June and a bedraggled vacuousness in August. Succession of blooms is one of the first requisites to the contin- ued beauty of any garden, hence to a continued pleasure in it, and this is easy to secure if a little care is taken in the selection of seeds and bulbs. It is a good plan to select first the favourites that bloom from spring to fall and then those flowers peculiar to certain months. As the planting of bulbs—Crocus, Daffodils, Jonquils, Hyacinths, Tulips, et cetera— is undertaken in the autumn, this important feature is often forgotten, which is to be regretted, for no intimate garden is complete or perfect without the encouragement of these exquisite harbingers of spring. One cannot do better, in introducing the subject of fragrant flowers in the garden intimate, than to quote Sir Francis Bacon again, good old-time gar- dening enthusiast that he was! ‘‘ Because,” wrote he, “‘the breath of flowers is sweeter in the air (where it comes and goes like the warbling of music) than 59 little garden in the hand, therefore nothing is more for the delight than to know what be the flowers and plants that do best perfume the air.”’ The flowers with overheavy, sickly perfumes we will hardly want in the tiny garden, but we still have a long list before us, with the Rose as queen of all,—Alyssum, Aquilegia, Auricula, Wallflower, Carnation, Lily-of-the-valley, Funkia, Heliotrope, Hamerocallus, Hesperis, Iris, Lilium, Mignonette, Mirabilis, Evening Primrose, Scabiosa, Scilla, Stock, Sweet Pea, Thyme, Sweet-William, Verbena and the Violet. Then there are Syringa, Daphne, Deutzia, Forsythia and Azalea among the shrubs, with Honeysuckle, Jasmine and other sweet scented vines to command. Often the beauty of a garden is marred by too great a variety of strident colour. It is far better not to mix many colours in a single bed. For in stance, masses of white, yellow or purple pansies are far more effective for bedding design than a bed filled with a hit-or-miss arrangement of colour, however interesting such a little plantation of pan sies might prove to be when closely inspected. The juxtaposition of colours which do not har monize well should be avoided. The use of many plants whose flowers are white, interposed between pinks or reds, and blues and purples, or magentas and scarlets at once restores the colour scheme to concord. White flowers are always very lovely combined with those of any colour, for they give accent to reds, lend delicacy to pinks, emphasize and soften the stridency of orange. One should not think of combining fiery scarlet Geraniums with intense blue Lobelias and yellow Calceolarias. On the other hand flowers in colour groups such as shades of yellow,—lemon, chrome, sulphur, orange and ochre—produce wonderfully beautiful, restful and interesting effects. Cool colours should be used in the partly shaded places, and bright colours where the sunshine falls most strongly. To reverse this order neither heightens the shaded nooks nor tones the sunny spots, for the (Continued on page 92)

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Following the Sunset HUMORIST once remarked that when he _ the soothing influence of summer seas and summer skies : A wanted to enjoy the pleasures of travel he that make this route to the Expositions the favored one. threw a $5 bill out of the window, put a cinder in his eye, and went to sleep on the closet shelf. His Who, aboard ship, would imagine that the world was name has slipped my memory but I place him correctly __ traveling at the rate of 68,000 miles an hour? In busy among those unfortunates who have never had the New York, yes; but on the Southern Pacific steamers pleasure of traveling over the Southern Pacific Sunset the hours glide into yesterdays through glorious twi- * Route to San Francisco. lights, and soft breezes usher in the welcome dawns that are only too few in number. White flannels and soft There is something romantic about a sea trip. To fluffy frocks, freedom of motion, delicious food and begin with, the books and flowers and fruit and the perfect service—and ofttimes a moon! Do you wonder waving handkerchiefs at the pier start the journey that so many choose this route to California? right. This is the first reason I can give for going to : : ; the Expositions via New Orleans, taking the boat from _It is a journey the beauty and pleasure of which has New York. I should need to have as many mouths as___ won the appropriate title “‘One Hundred Golden Hours the Ganges, to adequately explain all the other reasons, at Sea.” Your steamer slips down the Coast and across but for those who want to get as much out of the trip the Gulf, until the vast delta of the Mississippi is as possible this brief appreciation will serve, I hope, reached. Then you steam up a graceful river where as a guide straight to the nearest Southern Pacific | wee houses peep at you from under the levees—seem- sa ticket office. ing to welcome you. The proud battle monument reminds you that you are in the port of Romance One may expect to meet interesting people aboard ship, where the quaint old-fashioned dignity of the South because those who travel for business are important blends with the alluring charms of France. New enough to represent some worthy enterprise, and those Orleans is the grande dame among American cities. who are seeking pleasure have earned or inherited the Her air of breeding tells you that she has grown old leisure for such a trip. Either case insures individu- ’midst the rustle of rich silks and fine old lace; that ality. The young journalist who hopes to make a hit | she presided in banquet halls where titled foreigners with his articles about the Expositions is sure to be made merry over goblets of rare wine. wide-awake; the Wall Street man will expand genially under the dolce-far-niente atmosphere of shipboard life; | How far away modern New York seems and how glad the humorist is certain to have enough wit for two, so you are that New Orleans is the first milestone of a you need make no effort to keep up with him; and memorable trip! should there be a center of gravity on board you can : always leave him in his corner of the deck and join the When I have to travel on a train for two or three days, centers of levity. It is the sans-géne of ship- _I usually inspect it pretty closely beforehand. When board, the lazy, restful do-as-you-please— everything is satisfactory I feel as great a sense of relief as I do when I have looked under the bed and found the burglar “not there.” From engine-tender to observation-platform the Sunset oe Limited leaving New Orleans is of steel. The Diner is = carried through the entire run and cars are equipped an) with every modern convenience and luxury. In fact ~~ “the closelier you look” (I have H. G. Wells’ authority 2 for that sentence) the more convinced you are that the Safety Medal awarded the Southern Pacific last year by the American Museum of Safety in New York, was well bestowed. es ee Raa sense ih ett Seated on the roomy platform of the Observation car . = . . - - ’ you are carried across the Mississippi on an enor- OVER THE APACHE TRAIL through SALT RIVER CANYON “THE ALAMO” SAN ANTONIO Harper's Bazar, Adv., May, 1org

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de—, r to the Golden Gate By HENRIETTA SANDS ANDERSON ~f Ly 0 V_ = A Se mous transport ferry and from there you continue your with content and the fountains gurgling with merry laughter. song of gratitude, as your path leads through sugar-cane, rice _ Picture to yourself a valley of almost tropical beauty, walled in and cotton plantations. It is all so picturesque—soin harmony by snow-clad ranges, and domed by skies of deepest blue. with the early promise of the trip. Wild swamps of cypress Imagine paims and flowers everywhere, beautiful public along the tracks show trees heavy-laden with clinging vines, buildings and seductive suburbs, and you have some idea of and you look deep into the heart of shady nooks where only _ this metropolis of Southern California. a few sunbeams dance. This is Louisiana! ‘The leisurely- sounding name is fitting. Los Angeles is like the hub of a mammoth wheel whose spokes radiate in all directions. From Los Angeles you may slip Some passengers stop off at Houston and run down fifty southward for a visit to the exquisite Panama-California miles to Galveston, or break the journey later at San Antonio Exposition at San Diego, gray-built on a protecting hill and or El Paso. offering to visitors a haunting vision of beauty in the Spanish architecture of former days. if - pt £45 a] From the slumbering landscape you have passed you are suddenly rushed into a country of wild beauty, where vistas Then the call of singing seas and perfumed gardens draws you of real grandeur hold your interest through the hours. From __ irresistibly to some of California’s noted resorts—Pasadena, the luxuriant environs of the Rio Grande you look across a __ Riverside, Redlands, Redondo, Santa Monica, Venice, Long od precipitous bank to the hills and valleys of Mexico. Your Beach and Catalina Island, all of which are easily and quickly train is taking you toward the setting sun over cacti-covered reached from Los Angeles. hills, across the plains of New Mexico, and past the adobe dwellings of Arizona, where, if you are wise, you will decide Diverging from Los Angeles to the north lie two enticing routes to leave the main line at Bowie for that marvelous trip over to San Francisco. One along the coast, with its succession of the Apache Trail through oldest America. fascinating places, including Santa Barbara, Paso Robles, Del Monte and Santa Cruz. ‘The other through the central por- From Bowie to Globe the way is by train. Then comfortably tion of California where you will see the beautiful valley of seated in aswift automobile, you are carried for one hundred — the San Joaquin River and enjoy the opportunity of visiting and twenty miles over a magnificent government highway, Yosemite Valley, with its majestic cliffs and graceful water- where in a few hours are crowded fascinating glimpses of the falls, as well as the Mariposa Grove of gigantic trees. ancient Cliff Dwellings, the Copper Camps, the thrilling Gorge of the Salt River and the gigantic Roosevelt Dam, the greatest | You will wish that you were Argus-eyed when you reach San engineering feat of the Far West. Francisco, the city that crowns more hills than Rome. It is here that the Spirit of Progress has erected with magic hands Resuming the main line again at Maricopa, you spend a day the “‘ Walled City of the Orient,” a city of shimmering green flying through gardens of enchantment with orange trees domes and red-tiled roofs, set in gardens typical of California. showing golden fruit on every hand, until evening brings you Here at an intersecting centre is the vast Court of the Uni- into the far famed “City of the Angels.” verse, representing the meeting place of the Eastern and Western hemispheres. Here rises the gigantic Tower of A small Paradise is Los Angeles, indeed, with its bowers of Jewels, its scintillating sides flashing like myriads of diamonds green and banks of flowers. The very trees seem to be sighing under the nightly flare of electric searchlights. Radiating from this beautiful tower are esplanades, and courts and arches and gardens. Clearly, this Exposition is so big, so glorious in conception and design, that it may well be termed the Dream City of the Western World. The splendors that have rewarded the efforts of its projectors are worth crossing the continent to see. And when you turn your face toward the Eastern Coast again, it will surely be to enjoy once more the delights of travel over the “Exposition Line” { —the Southern Pacific. | f : . Zi — i \ te wae 2 a vt a Wein Vk . RY es Ww aw JB (GALVESTON * 46 _. General Offices of the Southern Pacific Company, to which you should write for illustrated literature and other information regarding California and its Expositions: lf 7 NEW YORK CITY NEW ORLEANS HOUSTON SAN FRANCISCO / 366 Broadway Metropolitan Bank Bldg. Southern Pacific Bldg. Flood Building // / Agencies all over the United States, Mexico, Cuba, Europe Harper’s Bazar, Adv., May, 1915 59B

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—— Te T he Mistress By NATHALIE SCHENCK L:, Lovely blue pond-lilies may now be procured and are charming when arranged in crystal bowls of simple design. Fragrant heliotrope in tall crystal holders gives height to this shallow bowl of dark blue porcelain (upper left corner). EVER have table decorations been more fascinating than at present, and never quite so within the reach of every one, in regard to price. Where formerly many dollars were spent to procure the choicest products of the greenhouse, now by a little ingenuity and the purchase of a few of the accessories shown here, numberless pictures may be arranged for the centre of the table. Al- most every one has a high glass bowl similar to the one illustrated, and while the lovely blue pond lilies are of course a rarity, any flower will show up as well. The low broad crystal bowl, however, is newer, and it is not expensive; the little gold fish swimming in and out among the daffodils may be borrowed for the occasion from the children’s aquarium. Should you use either of these crystal bowls as the flower holder for your dinner-table, have no other decoration but crystal candlesticks, and if possible, salts and peppers of crystal. I saw shades the other day that would look charming with such a set. They were of cream-coloured paper, encircled at the top and bottom by a blue band a quarter of an inch deep, pond-lilies of the same shade of blue were painted on the cream ground carrying out the effect of the centrepiece. It is almost impossible to imagine the loveliness of the dinner-table I saw lately. It was of such originality that I must tell you of it. The table of Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 ee ee Gardenias and frogs make equal appeal when ar- oS ae \ ranged in a setting of white porcelain. _ ae Arranged by G. EM. Stump p A china compotier is as effective when filled with flowers as with fruit. In this instance yellow jonquils are used. oak was oblong in shape and instead of being covered by the usual damask, there was a lovely cloth of point de Venise, hollow in the centre, which had been shaped to fit the table and extended from the outer edge to within a few inches of the floral centrepiece, which rested on the bare table. On this occasion the lovely white dish pictured here was used. The crouching white china frog held up a branching mass of fragrant gardenias. These shaped cloths, by the way, are being much used this season. For dinner they must be very elaborate and always of lace, but made of embroidered linen, they are charming for luncheons. The two low fruit dishes and the candlesticks, used with the gardenia decoration, were of white Wedgwood, the shades for the latter being of the 60 Tiny gold fish swimming in a shallow pool from which rise yellow jonqui’s will win for the hostess praise for originality. A brilliant blue porcelain bow! holding sprays of deep orange roses is a striking colour scheme for a spring Iuncheon table (upper right corner). sime Wedgwood in a very openwork lacy pattern and lined with green silk that harmonized beauti- ‘ully with the gardenia leaves. These china dishes xr plaques also come in the loveliest shade of blue which combines delightfully with deep yellow roses or heliotrope. The cone-shaped glass flower holders are a neces- sity with these flat dishes, and one or two flowers floating carelessly in the water are an addition. In fact, pansies or any other short stemmed flowers may be strewn thickly over the surface of the water, and one tall specimen vase containing a few long stemmed ones can stand a little at one side of the dish. These slender receptacles are a great help in arranging flowers, a few perfect roses or hothouse blooms form, by their aid, an artistic picture, which may be comparatively inexpensive. The most lifelike turtles stand in the bowls as flower holders, instead of the glass cones and as a finishing touch, fascinating birds of different col- ours perch on the edges of the dish, as if they had just blown down from a nearby roof. I feel sure that packed away in the attic, we all have one or more old-fashioned china compotiers which our grandmothers treasured among their dearest possessions. Quite by accident I arranged one with flowers as pictured. The effect was quaint and charming, and I am sure many will be glad of an opportunity to make use oi these neg- lected bits ot china.

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This illustrates a reproduction of an Antique Kuba rug of the XVII Century, made upon our own looms in the East. ORIENTAL MASTERPIECES REPRODUCED ay pated of the most characteristic and interesting productions of the earlier periods are not obtainable in sizes suited to the requirements of modern rooms. It is possible, however, to secure in our reproductions, rugs which have the individuality and charm of the early masterpieces, in sizes and qualities which fulfill in a practical way, all requirements. We should be glad to describe in detail what we may have in stock to meet your particular needs. W. & J. SLOANE Established 1842 Direct Importers of Eastern Rugs Interior Decorators Furniture Makers Floor Coverings and Fabrics FIFTH AVENUE AND FORTY-SEVENTH STREET, NEW YORK Harper's Basar, May, 1015

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(Continued from page 22 As I looked at her crouching, sobbing figure, I knew the spirit was broken: she would never go away. She would return to beatings and curses, and to preparing dinners that grew cold before the eating, and to listening for steps on the stairs that made her body stiffen. ... "THE next evening I stopped at the hospital. Rose had been moved from the children’s ward into the women’s ward, where it was quiet. There was a white screen around the bed, and I knew the end was not very far off. The mother sat at the head of the bed, hope- less, senseless, blank-eyed, while I adjusted the ice-bag over the troubled head. “How long yet?” she said, leaning forward anxiously. “Her heart is keeping up pretty well; it will be some little time—perhaps a few day She fell back into her seat, and I pushed away the screen, wandering aimlessly from bed to bed, trying to shake off the terrible feeling of helplessness that was gaining ground like an oncoming fog. “Well, Auntie Jackson, how are you?” I finally called to an old colored woman, half sitting in her bed “Oh—put me down as middlin’, thanks. Say, doc, is that kid going to die to-night ? They’ve got the screens all around the bed— I can’t stand it, I can’t—I go crazy last night when Miss Kate went out. I’se afraid I “Come now! Maybe we shall all be dead in the morning,” I said, poking her well- covered ribs. ‘You know very well you are going home in a few days,” I continued, and | die.” | told her to lie down. Her bed was near the door leading into the children’s ward, and I heard a subdued chat- ter in the “‘Heroes’ Corner” and drew nearer. Here the affairs of the world were settled every day; it was like a bulletin board of up-to-date news. There was George, a boot- black on one of the ferries, who had broken his leg saving a little girl from being run over. He had no parents and no home, and his con- freres had brought him to the hospital in an ambulance made from a box and old roller skates. There was Tom who had tried to stop a street car, Willie from up-the-state with a lame hip, and John who had fallen off the running board of an automobile. "THEY were evidently playing one of their many games. “I’m going to the country. I take ~ bag and my shoes and my collar and my . It was Willie talking, and the game was for each participant to add some new article. Then George began: “I am going to the country. I take my bag and my shoes and my .. . Lain’t going to take no collar “‘Ain’t isn’t good grammar,” interposed Willie. “ch. shut your head, you Wandering Wil- lie; you ain’t got nothing but a cold abscess, I’ve got a compound fracture, and . “T am going to the country,’ ’ began Tom, a bed beyond Willie, ‘“‘I take my bag. and my shoes and my suffragette, and . A groan of disapproval arose, "and George took the floor: “T am going to the country. I take my bag and my shoes and my suffragette and a brick and Miss Marsh and my leg, and . Miss Marsh was the beloved day -nurse. ‘“Miss Marsh is a suffragette, you,” said Tom. ““No she ain a a “Yes she is!” ‘*No she ain’t, you Pig: headed Irish . “Yes, she is, you flat-bottomed ferry- boat, you ‘compound- fractured side-wheeler, YOR... George was on his game side in a minute, and Tom was raising his good arm in defense while Willie turned on his stomach to keep out of harm’s way. John was looking on philosophically. In another moment George’s bed was on its way toward the opposite cor- ner of the room, its occupant grinding his teeth: ‘“‘T’ll get him yet, that bloomin’ Irishman!” “Now we won’t get a story to-night,” sighed Willie, turning back. “T’ll tell one,” said John, who was thirteen and had read all the books the Settlement ladies brought. They settled down, their heads as close together as possible, and John began: “In the high and far-off times the os coe oO Best Beloved, had no trunk . ” UT across the room George was straining his neck to listen: “*And it wasn’t my fault either.” I turned back to reality, and passed by Auntie’s bed. Her black head bobbed out from under her bed-clothes, her eyes roll- in “Doc, I’se tried to say my prayers. I’se . that scared—but I can’t remember nuthin’ but ‘Amen.’” “Did you say ‘Amen’?”’ I said. “Vessum.” “That’s quite enough. The good Lord likes short prayers once in a while.” “But is she going out to-night?” I did not answer. I looked off toward the white screen. Yes, she was going to die— long before her time. She would freeze on a marble slab, perhaps to-morrow, perhaps the day after, as surely as a crib in the maternity ward would warm a newcomer! The words of a prominent educator came to my mind: ““We have Colleges of Medicine and Disease. Some day we shall have Colleges of Health. “Doc—little honey, stay one minute till Auntie falls asleep!” But I was half way across the room and hurried out into the streets and up to the “big Professor’s’’ office. He was going to hold a large clinic before a medical association the following day, and he had said he was “going to aim at a little common sense” by way of hint as to what kind of material he wanted. Rose and the Malone baby! What a clinic! FE ARLY next morning I knocked at Mrs. Malone’s door. Her husband was get- ting ready to leave for the day, and the breakfast dishes were still on the table, while she was dressing her ten-months-old baby boy, yelling at the top of his voice whenever a drop of water threatened to come his way. “‘Fine lungs,” I observed. “You bet you, thanks to you people. All he needs now is the grub,” the proud father rejoined, tickling his first-born under the chin. “Mrs. Malone,” I said when he had gone, “will you do something for us—a lot. The ‘big Professor’ wants you to come to the clinic with your baby this afternoon.” “But he isn’t sick, is he?’ “No—that’s just it! He is as fine a speci- men of trouble-makers as you ever saw!” “Wait a minute till I see if his clothes are clean.” “No trimmings, Mrs. Malone; bring him as he is,’”’ I said eagerly, but I knew she would be washing and starching and ironing all the rest of the morning. “And bring the picture of him as he was five months ago,”’ I added, pointing at a gold framed picture of a wizened, wilted, drawn faced bit of skin and bones hanging over the mantelpiece. My heart went singing under my ribs that afternoon as “‘case”’ after “‘case’”’ went into the large white lecture room, Mrs. Malone’s Jimmie was going to be the last one. As the door closed after little Rose I heard broken sentences: . “tubercular meningi tis following measles . . . hopeless case, of course . . . measles one of the deadliest dis- eases there is...” NE: AR me was sitting a father with his baby, the next case to go in. I fell into the clinic way of appropriating everything abnormal: “How many babies like that?” “Two, but they died.” “Ever sick?” “ No. ” “Your wife «ver sick?” “ No.” “And you were never sick,” I mused. “No—just had a little trouble once .. . ’ Then his turn came. Just a “little trou ble!” and his children paying the penalty! “Next case!” “Your turn,” I whispered to Mrs. Malone and held open the door, gold-framed picture in hand. HE professor was turning toward his audience, a half whimsical smile playing over his face: “You all remember the story of the judge in the old and far-off times who sentenced a man to be hanged for stealing horses. When passing his judgment he said: ‘I am sen tencing you to be hanged not because you stole horses, but to keep horses from being stolen.’ I am showing you these children. gentlemen, not because they are sick, but so that you may keep others from getting sick.”’ At this point in the discourse he turned to the centre of the floor where little Jimmie, his clothes “peeled” off, was striding on his mother’s lap, slapping his firm pink chest with his chubby fists, prancing up and down, gurgling with delight at the loss of his clothes, and showing two rows of shining little teeth. The owners of the faces in tier after tier leaned forward, the satiated expression of a few moments before disappeared, gold-framed picture was forgotten, and all hands gave a roaring salute to the little prince in the pit, while Mrs. Malone blushed to the roots of her red hair. The old professor slowly nodded his head: “That’s the way! That’s the way it should be—and could be!”’

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“crper's Bazar, May, 1915 \ NaN a : “ = > Wha ok Ki} NASSAU COUNTRY CLUB 4 } pa /,! Where Society Meets \e Smartness Prevails The new fashion—recently introduced in Paris— of wearing long silk gloves with long-sleeved gowns is now being followed by many of the smart set here. Among the devotees of society who consider quality more than price, and cor- rectness most of all, “Niagara Maid” Silk Gloves are a wide favorite. Their exquisite quality and faultless style meet the minutest demands of carefully dressed women. Niceties of detail and a general artistic effect are further qualities that make “Niagara Maid” Gloves indispensable where an altogether pleasing appear- ance is desired. The softly wrinkled folds of the glove as they cling at the wrist give a dressy finish to the sleeve that is truly charming. Probably no glove is more admirably suited to the realiza- tion of this pretty fashion than the new embroidered effects in “Niagara Maid” Silk Gloves. The hundred and more combinations of colors and embroideries available, offer such variety for selection as is not found in any other silk glove. They include not only the accepted styles of the season but the latest French novelties, as well. Every glove has the name “Niagara Maid” in the hem. Double tips. Guarantee ticket, bearing our trade-mark, in every pair. Prices —Short Silk Gloves, 50c, 75c, $1.00 up; Long, 75c, $1.00, $1.25, $1.50 up. Niagara Silk Mills, North Tonawanda, N. Y. MAKERS OF “Niagara Maid” Silk Gloves Silk Underwear and Silk Hosiery Also made in Brantford, Canada, for Canadian Trade Visitors to the Panama-Pacific Exposition are invited to see the especially fine exhibit of ‘‘ Niagara Maid” Silk Products at the Varied Industries Building 7 : NikePIPING ROCK

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Beautiful Gray Hair in every shade from iron gray to the clear blue-white shades, the most difficult to obtain, may here be had in the finest quality of fresh-cut, wavy, nat- ural hair, in perfect ‘match with your own. You should see the convenient “‘ Triplet Switch’? — Simonson’ s latest—really three tiny little switches so you can wear one or two or all three strands as occasion requires. Or if your hair is thin or prematurely gray, ask about the cArlon, which will cover every defect and save your hair from the strain of continuous dressing. hair piece hair in Every Simonson matches your own quality as well as color. To obtain our latest booklet, ask for ‘Pretty Hair Effects.” The Everlasting Wave will make your own hair beautifully wavy and fluffy for months oreven years. Dampness and sea-air will not affect it or remove the added charm it gives to your daily hair dress, while shampooing only improves the wave. Imparted by our skilled operators under a six months’ guarantee. See demonstration in our show window. Hair Goods and Hair-Dressing 506 Fifth Avenue Near 42nd Street NEW YORK CITY A uM Ee A A ii MM ain yi F {A iN TRA

= = = = i A

(At mn TATU

From Peak to Keelson (Continued from page 45) All other hats are forgotten when she begins to describe to you the hat she insists is correct for the sports costume—a hat whose origin is the humble cane bottom chair. Miss Lillian Hyde has given to it the sanction of a golfist by wearing one in black trimmed with a perky bow of narrow black ribbon wired to take on fantastic lines. Her own, the hat of her heart, is as near a replica of the cane bottom chair as it could be without actually demolish- ing this time-honoured piece of furniture. It is lined with gold tinted linen and decked with one squashy pink wool rose. Need I tell you that it came straight from that fas- cinating shop where the glass elephants in the window promise you unusual confections within? She has confessed that she has always had a lurking conviction that it was the veil which gave to the women of the harem their allure- ment. Many others must share this con-

She hasn’t outgrown her baby days, for there is a bib outlined in frilling on a new French blouse of soldat bleu linen at John Wanamaker’s.

The old frock becomes a new crea- tion when a butterfly of velvet roses with streamers of chiffon outlined in the velvet alights at the back of the corsage. naughty French artists. The clinging, slit skirts of yesterday taught the canny little woman a lesson which she isn’t going to for- get though fashion does demand that she drop over the limbs she has so frankly dis- played in the past a frothy covering. Did not our great-grandmothers have their hoops which bobbed up and ‘down and _ afforded glimpses of lacy little pantalets that were never meant to more than veil? These black stockings, by the way, are worn with white slippers tipped in black. And if you would be right up to the minute see that this foot-gear laces on the inside of the foot at the side. To be sure, side lacings in high boots are being superseded by the

viction, for by day and by night the fair- est of women at Palm Beach sought to en —f. hance their charms f +. } by wrapping the face in Turkish fashion. Fear of flirtatious rays of the sun might explain the harem veil of chiffon worn on the sands, but surely the silvery radiance of the moon could not have called forth the wisps of tulle with which the women swathed their faces in the evening. What matters as to cause when the result is so successful? If one were a bit The factious he might hint, as the Woman Who Knows did, that the “harem” slaves of fashion bore a cer- tain resemblance to the ostrich, for though they hid their faces their legs told a story in shadowgram that all who looked might read. Black stockings worn with a sheer white frock, even though the skirt may flare and billow and gerie skirts. ripple, will give quite V4 as effective a silhou- fp ch ette as the pen and ‘ / 1 ink sketches of those f |

blacker the sharper the silhouette, so argue the women who have been wearing black stockings with their filmy, frothy lin- | back lacings, but they are quite the correct notion in the \ — low shoes. \ ‘ With the return of old-time favour- ites come the shoul- der capes and in such frivolous, frilly moods that you can no longer associate them with the lavender and old lace of the twi- light of youth. Youth itself has recognized the !ure of these bits of nothing and hides her pretty face almost to her roguish eyes in the high full ruching of taffeta which seems to hold together the trifling layers of tulle and chiffon that fall stockings, the temptingly and ca- ressingly over the shoulders. Lovely they are, though doubtful as a_pro- tection. : 4 sang) te OF Bee NN ¢ ~ , > <} m\) \\ oS ZA NINA ANY \ ADAYA & ff ~\ / / i| | \ \ we LE J fl Ni \WONSS vip AWS }\. 0 oD i ~\ ~\ In the march of the shoes, J. & J. Slater show a white kid Oxford dotted in black patent leather, grey suéde low shoes laced on the inside of the foot at the side and tipped in black, and dark blue leather pumps collared in white and with a curious empiécement of the white kid below the silver buckle.

2 MARINE aT.

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wore

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Save Your Eyes! Here is the very lamp you have been wishing for to CONCENTRATE light exactly where you want light, keep your eyes in the shadow, and save them from strain. “WALLACE” fo! LAMP \J L/

Model B Nickel Finish Model C The handiest lamp in the world because concealed in Satin Brass, base is a clamp, hook and suction-cup by which it will Push-But- ton Socket ms 25c extra

Stand, Hang, Clamp or Stick any place and at any angle you put it And when not in use it FOLDS into a top-like ball for carrying in grip when traveling, so that you can always have good light wherever you go. Indispensable in the home, office and shop. Model B Lamp standing, ready to Folded when not in use, be tilted to any angle or for traveling 10 DAYS’ FREE TRIAL Ask for it at your favorite store, buy of agents, Or order of us, and a ‘‘Wallace” will be sent you by parcel post, prepaid. Use it 10 days and if not entirely satisfied, return it and your money will be promptly refunded.

Spring Sale McCutcheon’s .!<— JNODNOJNG) NG)! KVLOAG bY WW

Write now before you forget it. ” For Toilet Uses The Wallace Novelty Co., Inc. Floods figure with light

Patentees and Sole Manufacturers Suite 17—22 East 41st Street, New York

Big Opportunity for Agents Must be hustlers with selling experience, and enough capital to carry stock re- quired. Write for proposition and proof

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For Reading in Bed Lamp clamped to Bed-rod

During the entire month of May wherever you may turn in our ample aisles you will find attractive values. Table Linens below the normal prices, and this in view of the fact that flax will be scarce and linen more costly next year on account of the war. Fancy Table Linens, including many lines which are especially suitable for the summer home. Towels, Bed Linen and Bed Cover- ings of every description. Neckwear, Hosiery and Lingerie, dainty creations, also modern Silk and Knit Under- wear. Women’s Outer Garments, _ including Summer Dresses, Waists and Blouses of the newest models. Send for new “Spring Sale Booklet’’ Mail Orders receive our prompt attention Fifth Ave., 34th and 33d Sts., N. Y

HROUGH persistent, digni- | fied, intellectual effort, Mrs. Adair has made the culti- vation of soft, fresh, youthful good looks a practical and exact science. Consider her GANESH Ss PANT” MUSCLE TREATMENT This is a system of lightly tap- ping and strapping the muscles and tissues of the face until they = yond and become buoyant

ful treatments, such as the Special Treatment for fied, Lined Eyes, Superfluous Hair, Etc., are given ONLY practitioners. Following are a few Ganesh necessities for self-treatment: @ 557 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK — who, i frown piber, canes. Dave forehe ad ines, require the us (illus- 92 NEW BOND ST.W trated). It smooths away the creases. $4, and $5. The ‘double N chin”’ meets its fate in the GANESH CHIN ae ar i 5 RUE CAMBON trated) which obliterates the baggy, folds. $5

hollows. $5, $2.50, $1 per bottle. GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC is an essential in the Spring, for remedying a loose, flabby condition of the skin. $5, $2, 75c. A skin roughened by winter suse the softening influence of the GANESH BALM CLEANSING CREAM; $3, $1. 75c. For the neck and bust lacking proper development, the GANESH JUNO; "$2.25, Si Mail orders for any of these filled promptly on receipt of cheque. oe Lecture Bock | mailed on request.

stimulated with increased blood circulation, obliterating foes and hollows. This and other of Mrs. Adair’s success- Mrs. Adair’s three Salons, by her personally trained English NESH MUSCLE DEVELOPING OIL, can be used at home with the greatest success in overcoming lines and

| HE superiority of Henry Tetlow’s Gossamer was positively | | % established in 1876, when the judges of the Centennial Exposi- | | tion awarded highest honors to the Henry Tetlow preparations, | stating “that for purity of material, naturalness of effect and Ny harmlessness to the skin, they are superior to any exhibited 1 | | ‘ by the world.” Today, Henry Tetlow’s Face Powder is widely | | 4 used in Europe in preference to French powders. | | HENRY TETLOW’S GOSSAMER

\ q } 4 is put up in a box with telescoping cover which is fitted with } | an inner container from which the powder may be poured | ‘ : into the puff-box without spilling. This container also ] | keeps the powder clean and dry and conserves its perfume. | | Henry Tetlow’s Gossamer has never been surpassed as a quality preparation for the i woman of fashion and refinement. Made in White, Flesh, Cream, Pink and Brunette tints. Sold by dealers everywhere. For a trial portion, simply send a card to the makers. it

HENRY TETLOW CO. Established in 1849. Philadelphia

A Trial Portion Free on Request

— os — ee

Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 ts F you are fond of charming, simple wash dresses if you delight in being attractively dressed, whether about the house, on the porch, in the garden, etc., you are sure to appreciate Bix-Make HOUSE and PORCH DRESSES Reflecting as they do the latest style touches, and tailored with exacting care, they represent the most desirable garments any woman can buy. Model illustrates our No. 885—one of the most popular models for this season. Of very fine quality white pique; hem- stitched collar, cuffs and pockets; detach- able silk-velvet belt. Price $3.00. Dix-Make Uniforms For Trained Nurses and For Maids are the recognized standard in smartness and qual- ity. Worn in leading hospitals, homes and hotels. Sold by good stores everywhere. Ask for them by name and insist on seeing our label. We will gladly send our Style Books, il!»strat- ing and describing other popular styles. Please specify book which you desire. S1—Porch Dresses S2—Uniforms for Trained Nurses S3—Uniforms ror Maids Henry A. Dix & Sons Company Dix Building New York

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ur Be Pel gt PG eee AT ———— ee Ese nce et Mothers By These Dainties in Wheat and Rice That’s why we picture them here month after month— why we tell you the story about them. Not for your sake so much as the children’s sake. They enjoy these flaky tit-bits. And when you know what it means to have grains steam-exploded you'll be glad to see that they get them. The Reason for Bubbles These are bubbles of Wheat and Rice. They are whole grains puffed to eight times normal size. We create in each grain a hundred million explosions. Each separate granule is blasted to pieces. That’s for easy, complete digestion. Other methods of cooking may break half of the granules. This method breaks them all. And the object is to make twice-better foods. The walls are as fragile as snowflakes. The taste is like toasted nuts. Eaten dry they are like confections. With sugar and cream they are sweetmeats. In bowls of milk they form crisp, delicious morsels—airy, flaky, toasted. And they supply a whole-grain food. Do you know any other form of Wheat or Rice with so many desirable qualities? Puffed Wheat, 12c 4a}:I" Puffed Rice, 15c Qitjaa; Except in Extreme West 1s¢ One great reason for Puffed Grains is the fact that you can serve them at any hour. They never tax the stomach. After school, at bedtime—at any odd-hour luncheon— they are ideal foods. Then you can use them like nut meats—in candy mak- ing or as garnish for ice cream. You are missing more than you know, in a dozen ways, when you don’t have Puffed Wheat and Rice. The Quaker Oats @mpany Sole Makers (850) Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 The Beauty Shop For the bath, A. P. Babcock has sea salts scented with cut roses (75 cents a bottle); and to use after the bath, Flower of Savoy talcum powder (50 cents a bottle); Vraie Violet toilet water (75 cents a bottle); Corylopsis face powder (50 cents a box) and a small bottle of Cut Roses sachet (25 cents a bottle). E may curl our lips superciliously when rouge is mentioned, but a bit of health- simulating colour is pretty sure to be tucked away in the drawer of the dressing- table—that is if it is not above board holding the place of honour amongst the creams and lotions. Something new in rouges is, there- fore, bound to cause a buzz at the tea-tables and even to become hopelessly entangled with “raise you”’ and ‘ ‘double it”’ at the bridge fests. For there is something quite different in rouges, and it comes in the form of a cream, | a non-greasy skin cream resembling any other cream which is squeezed out of a tube, except that it reflects a delicious rosy hue. There are two shades; one for the fair skin of a blonde and the other for her brunette sister, and a tube of either can be bought for 50 cents. The celebrated German specialist making this delightful rouge has also the little vanity boxes containing a tablet of rouge or powder, puff and mirror inset in the cover. The photograph shows you how attractive these striped boxes are to look upon, and their con- tents have the backing of time to recommend them. The price is 40 cents. The photograph also pictures for you a lip stick to give the bloom of ripe cherries to the lips (so cents); an eyebrow pencil to darken the brows and lashes and thus add lustre to the eyes (20 cents); a glass box of beauty spots, for if we are to dress like the belles of Louis Philippe’s court we shall need these coquettish aids to vanity (40 cents), and a book of powder leaves. A quick and lasting polish—also tinting—may be given to the nails by the powder contained in the ivory holder. A patented ope ning prevents any of the powder from spilling in the hand bag, and for 25 cents you may always have a manicure with you. The large box of powder is an edition de luxe of a powder which two or more gener- ations before us have enjoyed. It is of super- fine quality and delicately scented with Aspasia—the subtle fragrance of the South American orchid. It comes in all the usual tints and in lavender which blends so success- fully with the skin under the unfriendly glare of the electric light. It is well worth $1.50. Even the box is lavender in hue and withits touches of gold, within and without, makes an exceptional- lyhandsome package, well worththe $1.50 asked forit. Less ornate boxes of the lavender powder may be purchased for fifty cents and $1.00. A Garden in her Face In ‘Prunella’ the gardener tells how a man of his craft may teach Nature a lesson and concludes by saying, ‘‘ You can show her what she ought to be . . . make her toe the linc That’s what a garden’ s for, that’s where gardening comes in. And the beauty spe- cialist is the gardener of the face. He can show Nature what results she should have obtained—that’s where toilet preparations come in, The gardener — beauty specialist — who would attempt to instruct Nature must be very sure of his tools or preparations. There is at least one beauty specialist who has faith in his implements, and well he may have for his success since the launching of a now famous. greaseless cream in 1900 has been phenomenal. You will find the preparations everywhere— in London, even in Paris, in far away British India, Japan, China and the Philippines. And if imitation is the sincerest flattery, some idea of the popularity of the cream may be gleaned from the fact that three years ago it was estimated that 1500 imitations were on the market. Its first claim to fame lies in the fact that it is a product between a gre aseless cream made with a base of glycerine, an excess of which is often offensive to the skin, and the greasy creams. The fact that it will evaporate in time proves that there is only a very little glycerine used in its make up. The second claim, which is equally strong, lies in its delicious, refreshing odour. It has been described as lilac, but is really the fragrance of a flower not indigenous to the United States. And it is not an added perfume, but an integral part of its composition. A proof of this is the fact that if you rub the cream into the skin until it is quite warm the odour increases in fragrance, instead of becoming rank as is the case with the creams scented by a synthetic perfume. There is a certain body to this cream, for it does not disappear into the skin at once, but gradually. And lastly there is a positive guarantee given that there is nothing injurious to the most delicate skins—even skins tender from sunburn—for there is no salt of mercury, no oxide of lead or zinc, and no bismuth in its composition. A new package—a good looking white jar minus a label—containing three times the quantity in the 50 cent jars now sells for $1.00, and there are new tubes for 50 cents as well as the jars. a @ al ii To the casual observer it is the finishing touches that count and here are the means provided by Graf Brothers in the Leichner preparations, the various powders, lip stick, eyebrow pencil, nail polish, rouge and beauty spots—all ready to slip into the shopping bag. 5b - . ; ' i a

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: ‘4 } Have You Adopted Him ? The reason is simple. Every one who has a set of MARK TWAIN’S WORKS would not, under any circum- stances, part with any of the books. He is immediately taken into the household and made an honored and cherished member of it. Is there an- other writer of this or all time, who is so eagerly ‘“‘ adopted”’ by the family with- out a dissenting voice raised against him by the family council? What other author has such a universal ap- peal? Mark Twain, truly, is the one writer whose works appeal to father, mother, son, and daughter—no matter what age. He is “‘ Your Mark Twain a the moment you have him in your library—he is ‘‘ Your Mark Twain” the instant you read one of his books. No wonder then it is the ambition of every American to own a uniform set of his writings. Through his books HE IS YOUR FRIEND-- THE BEST OF FRIENDS —the most versatile of friends. Think of what Mark Twain means to you—the entertaining hours—the intellectual en- joyment—that every member of the family may have through a set of his works. He is the greatest humorist of all time, the Great Boy’s Writer, the Inter- esting Traveler, the master of descrip- tion, a great essayist, and the foremost MARK TWAIN At Special Price The Author’s National Edition in twenty-five volumes is offered at $1.00 per volume and you pay $2.00 monthly. Mark Twain made a personal sacrifice to bring about this edition by accepting a smaller royalty. We produced the best set possible for the money. Take Mark Twain into Your Household and Adopt Him Let us send you a set in the HARPER WAY: All charges prepaid. Examine the books ten days—if you do not like them, send them back at our expense. If you keep them, pay monthly or — $23.75 within thirty days. ‘“‘ Harpe Magazine ” or “ The North haan Review ”’ will also be sent for one year. Just give us your name and address on the coupon below and the books will be sent for you to judge. Harper & Brothers, New York HARPER & BROTHERS, Franklin Square, New York City. Please send me in THe Harper Way, carriage free, a set of MARK TWAIN’S WORKS twenty-five volumes, cloth binding, and enter my name as a subscriber for one year to HARPER'S MAGAZINE, under the terms of your offer. It is understood I may retain the set for ten days, and at the expiration of that time, if I do not care for the books, I will return them at your expense. and you will cancel the subscription to the Macazine. If I keep the books, I will remit $2.00 a month until the full price of the books and the MAGAZINE, $25.00, has been paid, or, within thirty days, will send you $23.75 as payment in full. H.B.5 PE os. ss aaa sivas saceeeers ME DIR sic iresccagcocontar senses “The North American Review” may be substituted for ‘‘Harper’s Magazine.” Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 ° a ° —that every ounce of Huyler’s 7 i is as good candy as can be made, . c ° B —that no synthetic flavorings ° © e ° ° are used in our candies, . : —that only the choicest materi ol | ° als obtainable in the world’s °| markets enter our doors, Oo o c ° —that none but master-artisans | x can qualify for our employment. o¢00006U«UOlUcUOUcS CUS ° ° pigs’*—as you call t So they overeat on tired litt#e stomachs—and along comes indigestion, sometimes-sSore throat (*‘stomach throat”), loss of appetite, pale cheeks. Doctor says **tonic’’— Doctors who've had experience with it say ANHEUSER-BU ScHy's hh Vubiine REG.U.S.PAT. OFF. TRADE MARK Liquid-Food-Tonic Give that hard-playing. fast-growing boy or girl of yours this real food tonic. It will be good for them—strengthen and build them up. All Druggists—Most Grocers Malt-Nutrine declared by U. S. Internal Revenue Department a pure malt product, not an alcoholic beverage. Contains 14!9 per cent malt solids—1.9 per cent alcohol. Interesting Book on Request ANHEUSER-BUSCH, St. Louis, U.S. A. -Lane Bryant- SMART APPAREL for STOUT FIGURES | § $4653 We are the only house carrying a large and complete assortment of Dresses, Coats, Suits Skirts, Waists, Negligees Corsets, Underwear especially designed for stout figures up to 56 bust measure. The best features of the season’s newest and most favored styles are cleverly adapted, exclusively by our designers, to give the stout figure the slender lines, charming grace and poise that proclaim the well-dressed woman. Pan at 2S AAA 18 aE Having workrooms on the prem- © ises enables us to sell direct to - you at manufacturers’ prices, and also gives you the advantage of _ having trimmings and details - changed to suit individual taste. NCA AN AE Our season book, the largest book ever devoted to Smart Apparel for Stout Figures, will be sent out of town upon application to Dept. A-5. SPECIAL $4653A—Dress illustrated is ideal for travel wear. Made of best quality Habutai silk, in black, navy, ivory, nig- © | ger brown, and gray. Box plaits on | | waist and skirt are matched, to give 3 long lines in the fashionable panel ef- fect; beautifully hand - embroidered. Bishop sleeve; pretty plaited collar and cuffs. Special 18.95. Ta Lane Bryant 25 West 38th Street, New York Z The specialty house of national reputation Ne SNA Ai MRE 4A 1 iM MA aL aN mnt ti ai SMe et an i AMBALA OE PRA UU RELA

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{rc = NABISCO . Sugar Wafers This is a recipe for a most delightful hour. The fascinating flavor of Nabisco charms all who partake of these perfect f . dessert confections. In ten-cent Nr tins and twenty-five-cent tins. ADORA Sugar Wafers—A con- i fection with sweetened-cream filling. For all dessert purposes. NATIONAL BISCUIT COM PANY i Sudden change of fashions will oblige ladies to wear the Transformation le Reve because it can be dressed any style, and adapted , to any fashion, Only first quality (French cut hair is used). Price same as in Paris, and according to shade. 7 . Permanent Hair Wave Large, loose and natural New improved machine, the heat is regulated according to quality and grade of hair. Price according to thickness and length. Very carefully and quickly “HENRI GRAUX 28 East 33d Street, New York Tel. 2768 Murray Hill BUNGALOW DINNERWARE Substantial, economical and especially de- signed for use in Country and Seashore Homes. Many distinctive patterns not found else- where. NEW ILLUSTRATED BOOKLET upon request showing forty patterns. 108-Piece Sets $14.00 to $55.00 or sold in separate pieces Purchases to the amount of $20.00 or over delivered FREIGHT PAID to all points east of the Mississippi River. WRIGHT, TYNDALE & VAN RODEN, INC. 1212 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Penna. as desired. Harper's Bazar, May, Ioms | in town, 68 Jaffery (Continued from page 31) and a child and a maid at a great hotel on the Lido. Our days were unimportant. We bathed in the Adriatic. We revisited familiar churches and picture galleries in Venice. We mingled with a cosmopolitan crowd and de- vane the complexions (not only in our faces) of an Othello family. Doria, too, made holiday abroad. Every August, Mr. Jellicoe repaired the ravages of eleven months’ civic and other feasting at Marienbad, and Doria, as she had done before her marriage, accom- panied him. She and Barbara exchanged let- ters about nothing in particular. The time passed smoothly. Once or twice we had word from our runa- gates. The fury of the sea having subsided after they had left Bordeaux, they had settled down to the normal life of shipboard and Jaf- fery took his turn with the hands, coiled ropes, sweated over cargo, and kept his watch. Liosha, we were given to understand, besides helping in the galley and the cabin and swab- bing decks, found much delight in painting the ships’ boats with paint which Jafiery had bought for the purpose at Bordeaux. She had struck up a friendship with the first mate, who, possessing a camera, had taken their photographs. They sent us one of the two standing side by side, and a more villainous looking yet widely smiling pair you could rot wish to see. Both wore sailor’s caps and Jer- seys and sea-boots, and Barbara’s keen eye detected the fact that Liosha, for freedom’s sake, had cut a foot or so off the bottom of her skirt without taking the trouble to hem up the edge, which, now frayed, hung about her calv es in disgrace ful fringes. “T think you were wrong, my dear,” said I. ‘The poor thing looks anything but utterly miserable." ‘I’m sure I was right about her hands and * she maintained. Well, it’s her ow n skin.” ‘“*More’s the pity,”’ Barbara retorted. What on earth she meant I do not know; but, as usual, she had the last word. The middle of September found us back in England, and shortly afterwards Doria re- turned also, and resumed her lonely life in the Adrian-haunted flat. But by and by she grew restless, complaining that no one but her father, of whose society she had wearied, was and went off on a series of country house visits. The flat, I suspected, for all its sacred memories was dull without Jaffery. She still maintained her unrelenting attitude, and spoke scornfully of him; but once or twice she asked when this mad voyage would be over, thereby betraying curiosity rather than indif- ference. skin,’ EANWHILE the autumn publishing sea- son was in full swing. Wittekind’s list of new novels, in its deep black framing border, stared at you from the advertisement pages of every periodical you picked up, and so did the list of every other publisher. Day after day Doria’s eyes fell on this announcement of Wittekind, and day after day her indigna- tion swelled at the continued omission of The Greater Glory. All these nobodies, these ephemera! scribblers, were being thrust flam- boyantly on public noti¢e and her Adrian, the great Sun of the firm, was allowed te remain in eclipse. For what purpose had he lived and died if his memory was treated with this dark ingratitude? I strove to reason with her. Adrian’s book had been prodigally advertised in the spring. It had sold enormously. It was still selling. There was no need to advertise it any longer. Besides, advertisement cost money, and poor Wittekind had to do his duty by his other authors. He had to push his new wares. ‘‘Tradesman!” cried Doria. If he wasn’t, I remonstrated, if he wasn't a trades- man in a certain sense, an expert in the art of selling books, how could Adrian’s novels have attained their wide circulation? It was to his interest to increase that circulation as much as possible. Why not let him run his very suc- cessful business his own way? Doria loftily assured me that she had no interest in his business, in the mere vulgar number of copies sold. Adrian’s glory was above such sordid things. Of far higher importance was it that his name should be kept, like a beacon, before the public. Not to do so was callous ingrati- tude and tradesman’s niggardliness on the part of Wittekind. Something ought to be done. I confessed my inability to do anything. ‘I know you have nothing to do with the literary side of the executorship. Jaffery un- dertook it. And now, instead of looking after his duties, he has gone on this impossible voy- age.” Here was another grievance against the un- fortunate Jaffery. I might have asked her who drove him to Madagascar, for had she been kind, he would have made short work of Liosha, after having rescued her from Fendi- hook, and would have returned meekly to Doria’s feet. But what would have been the use? I was tired of these windy arguments with Doria, and worn out with the awful irony of uphol ling our poor Adrian’ Ss genius. i m sorry he’s not here,” said I, somewhat tartly, “because he might have prevailed upon you to listen to common sense. A little while after this another firm of pub- lishers announced an edition de luxe of the works of a brilliant novelist cut off like Adrian in the flower of his age. It was printedon special paper and illustrated by a famous artist, and limited to a certain number of copies. This set Doria aflare. From Scot- land, where she was paying one of her restless visits, she sent me the newspaper cutting. If the commercial organism, she said, that passed with Wittekind for a soul would not permit him to advertise Adrian’s spring book in his autumn list, why couldn’t he do like Macken- zie & Co., and advertise an edition de luxe of Adrian’s two novels? And if Mackenzie & Co. thought it worth while to bring out such an edition of an entirely second rate author, surely it would be to Wittekind’s advantage to treat Adrian equally sumptuously. I ad- vised her to write to Wittekind. She did. Accompanied by a fury of ink, she sent me his most courteous and sensible answer. Both books were doing splendidly. There was every prospect of a goiden aftermath of cheap editions. The time was not ripe for an edi- tion de luxe. It would come, a pleasurable thing to look forward to, when other sales showed signs of exhaustion. “‘He talks about exhaustion,” she wrote. “‘I suppose he means when he sends the vol- umes to be pulped, ‘remainder or waste’— there’s a foolish woman here who evidently has written a foolish book, and has shown me her silly contract with a publisher. ‘Re- mainder or waste.’ That’s what he’s thinking of. It’sintolerable. I’ve no‘one, dear Hilary, to turn to but you. Do advise me. I sent her a telegram. For one thing it saved the trouble of concocting a letter, and for another it was more likely to impress the recipient. It ran: ‘I advise you strongly to go to Wittekind yourself and bite him.’ I was rather pleased at the humour- venture to qualify it as mordant? may I of the sug- gestion. Even Barbara smiled. Of course I was right. Let her fight it out herself with Wittekind. But Lhave regretted that telegram ever since. UCKILY I have kept most of Jaffery’s let- ters written to me from al] quarters of the globe. Except those concerned with the voy- age of the S..S. Vesta, they were rare phe- nomena. Ordinarily, if 1 heard from him thrice a year, I had to consider that he was indulging in an orgy of correspondence. But what with Doria and Adrian and Liosha, and what with Barbara and myself being so inti- mately mixed up in the matters which preoc- cupied his mind, the voyage of the Vesta cov- ered a period of abnormal epistolary activity. Instead of a wife, our amateur sailor found a post-office at every port. He wrote reams. He had the journalistic trick of instantaneous composition. Like the Ouidaesque hero who could ride a Derby Winner with one hand, and stroke a University Crew to victory with the other, Jaffery could with one hand hang on to a rope over a yawning abyss, while with the other he could scribble a graphic account of the situation on a knee-supported writing-pad. In ordinary circumstances—that is to say in what, to Jaffery, were ordinary circumstances —he performed these literary gymnastics for the sake of his newspaper; but the voyage of the Vesta was an exceptional affair. Save in- cidentally—for he did send descriptive arti- cles to The Daily Herald—he was not out on professional business. The gymnastics were performed for my benefit,—yet with an ulter- ior motive. He had sailed away, not on a job, but to satisfy a certain nostalgia, to escape from civilisation, to escape from Doria, to es- cape from desire and from heartache... and the deeper he plunged into the fastness of primitive life, the closer did the poor ogre come to heartache ‘and desire. He wrote spaciously, in the foolish hope that I would reply nar- rowly, following a Doria scent laid down with the naiveté of childhood. I received constant telegrams informing me of dates and addresses —I! who, Jaffery out of England, never knew for certain whether he was doing the giant’s stride around the North Pole or horizontal bar exercise on the Equator. It was rather pathe- tic, for I could give him but little comfort. Besides the letters he (and Liosha) deluged us with photographs taken chiefly by the ab- surd second mate, from which it was possible to reconstruct the S.S. Vesta in all her dismal- ness. You have seen scores of her rusty, grimy congeners in any port in the world. You have only to picture an old two-masted, well-decked tramp with smokestack and foul clutter of bridge-house amidships, and fore and aft a miserable bit of a deck broken by hatches and capstans and donkey-engines and stanchions and chains and other unholy stumbling blocks and offences to the casual promenader. From the photographs and letters [ learned that the dog-hole, intended by the Captain for Jaf- fery, but given over to Liosha, was away aft, beneath a kind of poop and immediately above the scrunch of the propeller; and that Jaf- fery, with singular lack of privacy, bunked in the stuffy, low cabin where the officers took their meals and relaxations. The more vividly did they present the details of their life, the (Continued on page 70)

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(Continued from page 68) more heartfelt were my thanksgivings to a merciful Providence for having been spared so dreadful an experience. UR two friends, however, found indis- criminate joy in everything; I have their letters to prove it. And Jaffery especially found perpetual enjoyment in the vagaries of Liosha. For instance here is an extract from one of his letters: “Tt’s a grand life, my boy. You're up against realities all the time. Not a sham within the horizon. You eat till you burst, work till you sleep and sleep till you're kicked awake. You should just see Liosha. Maturin says he has only met one other woman sailor like her, and that was the daughter of a trader sailing among the Islands, who had lived all her life since birth on his ship and had scarcely slept ashore. She’s as much born to it as any shell-back on board. She has the amazing gift of looking part of the tub, like the stokers and the man at the wheel. Unlike another woman she’s never in the way, and the more work you can give her to do the happier she is. She’s in magnificent health and as strong as a horse. At first the hands didn’t know what to make of her; now she’s friends with the whole bunch. The difficulty is to keep her from overfamiliar intercourse with them, for though she signed on as cook’s mate, she eats in the cabin with the officers, and between the cabin and the fo’c’sle lies a great gulf. They come and tell her about their wives and their sirls and what rotten food they’ve got ‘Everybody has got rotten food on board ship, you silly ass!’ quoth Liosha. ‘What do you expect? sweetbreads and ices?’—and what soul-shattering blighters they've shipped with, and what deeds of heroism (mostly imaginary) they have performed in pursuit of their peril- ous calling. They’re all children, you know, when you come to the bottom of them, these he'l-tearing fellows—children afflicted with a perpetual thirst and a craving to punch heads and Liosha’s a child, too; so there’s a kind of freemasonry between them. “There was the devil’s own row in the fo’- c’sle the other evening. The first mate went to iook into it and found Liosha standing en- raptured at the hatch looking down upon a free fight. There were knives about. The mate, being a blasphemous and pugilistic dog, soon restored order. Then he came up to Liosha—you and Barbara should have seen her— it was sultry, not a breath of air—and she just had on a thin bodice open at her throat and the sleeves rolled up and a short ragged skirt and was bareheaded. “*Why the Hades didn’t you stop ’em, missus?’ ‘‘For some reason or the other the whole ship’s company, except the skipper and my- self, call her ‘missus’. She gazed on him like an ox-eyed Juno; you know her way. ““*Why should I interfere with their enjoy- ment?’ ““*Enjoyment—!’ he gasped. ‘Oh, my Gawd!’ He flung out his arms and came over to me. I was smoking against the taffrail. ‘There they were trying to cut one another’s throats and she calls it enjoyment.’ “ E went off spluttering. I watched Liosha. A Dutchman—what you would call a Swede—a hulking beggar, came up from the fo’c’sle very much the worse for wear. Liosha says: “*Mr. Andrews was very angry, Petersen.’ “He grinned. ‘He was, missus.’ “What was it all about?’ “He explained in his sea-English, which is not the English of that mildewed boarding- house in South Kensington. Bil! Figgins had called him a , he had retaliated, and the others had taken a hand, too.” It is I who suppress the actual words re- ported by Jaffery. But believe me, they were enough to annoy anybody. “She shouted down the stairway. ‘Here you, Bill Figgins, come on deck for a minute.’ ‘*A lean, wiry, black looking man—spawn of the Pool of London, emerged. “*What’s the matter?’ “Why did you call Petersen a ————? she asked pleasantly and word perfect. ““*Cos he is one.’ ‘“**He isn’t,’ said Liosha. ‘He's a very nice man. And so are you. And you both fought fine, I was looking on, and I was mad not to see the end of it. But Mr. Andrews doesn’t like fighting. So see here, if you two don’t shake hands right now, and make friends and promise not to fight again, I'll not speak a word to either of you for the rest of the voy- age. “If I had tackled them like this, hefty chap that 1am, they would have consigned me toa shambles of perdition. And if any other woman had attempted it, even our valiant Barbara, they would have told her in per- haps polite, but anyhow forcible, terms to mind her own business. In either case they would have resented to the depths of their simple souls the alien interference. But with Liosha it was different. Of course, sex told. Naturally. But she was a child like them- selves. She had looked on, placidly, and had caught the flash of knives without turning ¢ hair. They felt that if she were drawn into a mélée she would use a knife with the best of them. I’m panning out about this, because it seems so deuced interesting and I should like to know what you and Barbara think. Do you remember Gulliver? For all the world it was like Glumdalclitch making the peace be- tween two little nine-year-old Brobdingna- gians. The two men looked at each other sheepishly. Half a dozen grinning heads ap- peared at the fo’c’sle hatch. You never saw anything so funny in your life. At last the lean Bill Figgins stuck out his hand sideways to the Dutchman, without looking at him. *** All right, mate.’ ““And the Swede shook it heartily, and the grimy hands cried ‘Bravo, missus!’ and Liosha, turning and catching sight of me just a bit abaft the funnel beneath the bridge, for the first time, swung up the deck towards me, as pleased as Punch.” ERE is another extract . . . Well, wait for a minute. _ Jafiery’s letters are an embarrassment of riches. If I printed them in full they would form a picturesque handbook to the coast of the African continent from Casablanca in Morocco, all the way round by the Cape of Good Hope to Port Said. You must just imagine the rusty Vesta wallowing along, about nine knots an hour, around Africa, dis- gorging cotton goods and cheap jewelry at each God-forsaken port, and making up cargo with whatever raw material could find a Euro- pean market. If I told you exactly what was taken out of the S.S. Vesta and what was put into her, I cannot conceive your being in the slightest degree interested. To do so would bore me to death. To me, cargo is just cargo. The transference of it from ship to shore and from shore to ship is a matter of awful noise and perspiring confusion. I have travelled, in so-called comfort, as a first-class passenger to Africa. I know all about it. Generally, the ship cannot get within quarter of a mile of the shore. On one side of it lies a fleet of flat- bottomed lighters manned by glistening and excited negroes. On board is a donkey-engine working a derrick with a Tophetical] clatter. Vast bales and packing cases are lifted from the holds. <A dingily white-suited officer stands by with greasy invoice sheets, while an- other at the yawning abyss whence the cargo emerges makes the tropical day hideous with horrible imprecations. And the merchandise swings over the side and is received in the lighter, by black uplifted arms, in the midst of a blood-curdling babel of unmeaning ferocity. That is all that unloading cargo means to me; and I cannot imagine that it means any more to any of the sons or daughters of men who are not intimately concerned in a particular trade. ... OU must imagine, I say, the S.S. Vesta re- peating this monotonous performance: Jaf- fery and Liosha and the little, black-bearded skipper, all clad in decent raiment, going ashore, and being entertained scraggily or copiously by German, French, Portuguese, English, fever-eyed commissioners, who teok them on the four du proprictaire, among the white wooden government buildings, the palm-covered huts of the natives, and showed them the Mission Chapels and the new Cus- tom Houses and the pigeon-like fowls and the little dirty naked nigger children, and the exiguity of their stock of glass and china, and the yearning of their souls for the flesh-pots of the respective Egypts to which they belonged. As far as I can make out, the moment they put foot on shore, they behaved like the best conducted globe-trotters who dwe!l habitu- ally in a detached gentleman’s residence in Peckham Rye. It was on the sea, away from ports and mission stations and exiles hunger- ing for the last word of civilisation, and shore- going clothes, that life as depicted by Jaffery swelled with juiciness; and to my taste, the juiciest parts of his letters are those humour- istically concerned with the doings of Liosha. As to his hopeless passion for Doria,‘ he says very little. When Jaffery put pen to paper he was objective, loving to describe what he saw and letting what he felt go hang. In consequence the shy references to Doria were all the more poignant by reason of their rarity. But Liosha was the central figure in many a picture. Here, I say, is another extract: “‘Liosha continues to thrive exceedingly. But there’s one thing that worries me about her. What the blazes are we going to do with her after this voyage? No doubt she would like to keep on going round and round Africa for the rest of her life. But I can’t go with her. I must get back and begin to earn my living again. And I don’t see her settling down to afternoon tea and respectability again. I think I'l! have to set her up as a gipsy with a caravan and a snarling tyke for company. How a creature with her physical energy has managed to lie listless for all these months I can’t imagine. It shows strength of charac- ter anyway. But I don’t see her putting in another long stretch. (Continued on page 72)

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Se tien, se a eee — —S ~=¥v > es Write to Jane Jarvis of Harper’s Bazar Wonderful values are offered by the New York shops in May. Special merchandise has been selected for these sales and you can find bargains that you would search for in vain at other seasons. The new full wash skirts are very reasonably priced. Blouses are more fascinating than ever, and lingerie is being sold at such inviting prices that every woman can afford to replenish her wardrobe. Jane Jarvis is in close touch with the best shops and will be delighted to give you the advantage of the special sales at this season. She will purchase for you draperies or furniture for your home or the most minute details of your wardrobe. There is no charge for this service. This blouse of dotted voile has the new de- tachable frill that makes it serve for dress) occasions, $2.00 A. Nightgown of sheer batiste trimmed with Valenciennes lace and insertion. Satin ribbon run through insertion to define the Empire waistline, $3.95 B. Gown of washable crepe de chine trimmed with deep hemstitched fold. Waistline finished with hem- stitched fold with wide ribbon drawn through eyelets. Colours, pink and white, $3.95 C. Wide Valenciennes lace and soft silk finish batiste are combined in a nightgown that is specially priced at $2.95 D. For the new full skirt there is the new circular flounced petticoat. This one is of nainsook and shadow lace, $2.95. Bodice of sheer batiste and French net, $1.45 E. Here is exceptional value in a nainsook petticoat trimmed with fine scalloped batiste embroidery, $2.95. Underbodice of flesh or white crepe de chine with net sleeves for shields, $1.50 Address Jane Jarvis Director Following the trend of skirts everywhere, this envelope che- mise shows a graceful flare at the bottom, the scaliops edged with Valenciennes lace. ‘The Empire waist shows a deep “V” in front and is drawn in with dainty ribbon, $2.95 Ce @*/ | \\ \ \ \ ' \\ : \ ' [ ' ~~ — ( ta \4 Indispensable fo mer wardrobe silk blouse of wh The collar hug tightly or is th r the Sum- is this tub ite habutai. s the neck rown back for sports as suits the caprice of the wearer, Where could y smarter or more $2.95 ou find a serviceable sports skirt than this one of white cordeli down the front? ¢, ne opening $2.50 Harper’s Bazar Personal Shopping Service 119 West goth St., N. Y. Harper’s Bazar, May, 1015

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But I haven’t had much luck so far, have I? *“QHE has taken her position as cook’s mate seriously, and shares the galley with the cook, a sorrow-stricken little Portugee whose wife ran away with another man during the last trip. He pours out his woes to her while she wipes away the tears from the lobscouse. I don’t know how she stands it, for even I who’ve got a pretty strong stomach, draw the line at the galley. But she loves it. Now and again when it’s my watch—I’m on the star- board watch, you know—I see her turn out in the morning at two bells. She stands for a few moments right aft of her cabin door, and fills her lungs. And the wind tugs at her hair beneath her cap, and at her skirts, and the spindrift from the pale grey sea of dawn stings at her face; and then she lurches like a sailor down the wet, slanting deck—and I can tell you, she looks a devilish fine figure of a woman. And soon afterwards there comes from the galley the smell! of bacon and eggs- my son, if you don’t know the conglomerate smell of fried bacon and eggs, bilge water, and the salt of the pure early morning ocean, your ideas of perfume are rudimentary. She and the Portugee between them, he contributing the science and she the good-will, give us ex- cellent grub; of course you would turn your nose up at it—but you've never been hungry in your life! and there hasn’t been a grumble in the cabin. Maturin has offered her the permanent job. Certainly she looks after us and attends to our comforts in a way sailor men on tramps aren't accustomed to. She’s a great pa! of the second mate’s and at night they play spoiled-five at a corner of the table, with the greasiest pack of cards you ever saw, | and she’s perfectly happy. “ Now and again we discuss the future, with- out arriving at any result. A day or two ago She considered the matter gravely. “*T guess I'll have to. I’m twenty-four. “T replied: ‘You won't always strike wrong uns.’ ““*T don’t know what kind of a man I’m going to strike,’ she said. ‘Not any of those | little billygoats in dinner jackets I used to | meet at Mrs. Jardine’s . No, sirree. And no more Mr. Fendihooks!’ “She rose—we had been sitting on the cabin skylight—and leaned over the taffrail and looked wistfully out to sea. I joined her. She was silent for a bit. Then she said: ‘““*T guess I’m not going to marry at all; for I’m not going to marry a man I don’t love, and I couldn’t love a man who couldn’t beat | me—and there ain’t many. That’s the kind of fool way I’m built.’ “She turned and left me. I suppose she meant it. Liosha doesn’t talk through her hat. But if she ever does fall in love with a man who can beat her, there'll be the devil to pay. Liosha in love would be a tornado of a spectacle. But I shouldn't like it. Honest— I shouldn’t like it. I’ve got so used to this | clean great Amazon of a Liosha, that I should | loathe the fellow were he as decent a sort as | you please.” It is curious to observe how, as the voyage | proceeded, Jaffery’s horizon gradually nar- rowed to the small shipboard circle, just as an invalid’s interests become circumscribed by the walls of his sick-room. He tells us of child- ish things, a catch of fish, a quarrel between the first and second mate over Liosha, second having accused first of a disrespectful atti- tude towards the lady, the sail-cloth screen rigged up aft behind which Liosha had her morning tub of sea water, the stubbing of Liosha’s toe and her temporary lameness, the | illness of the Portuguese cook and Liosha’s | supremacy in the galley. And he wrote it all with the air of the impresario vaunting the qualities of his prima donna, nay more—with a fatuous air of proprietorship, as though he himself had created Liosha. Here is the beginning of another letter, ad- | dressed to us both: ““\ thousand thanks, dearest people, for what you tell me of Doria. If she just misses me a little bit, all may be well. I’ve bought some jolly gold barbaric ornaments that she may accept when I reach home; and do try to persuade her that the poor old bear is rough | only on the outside. “Things going on just as usual. Liosha has got a monkey given her by the donkey- man. ‘ip HERE follows a description of the monkey and its antics, and a long account of a chase all over the ship, in which all the ship's | company including the captain took part, to the subversion of discipline and navigation. But you see—he switches off at once to Liosha and the trivial records of the humdrum day. At last he had something less trivial to write about. They were in the Mozambique Channel, making for Madagascar: “Now that this darned cabin table is com- | paratively straight, I can scribble a few lines to you. We've had a beast of a time. The dirtiest weather ever since we left Beira and the cranky old tub rolling and pitching and | standing on her head as I’ve never known ship Jaffery (Continued from page 70) do before. Consequence was, the cargo got shifted and there was a list to port, so that every time she ducked that side, she shipped half the channel. Skies black as thunder and the sea the colour of inky water. We had the devil’s own job getting the cargo straight. Just imagine a black rolling dungeon full of great packing cases weighing about half a ton each all gone murderous mad. Just imagine getting down among them, as practically all hands had to do, save the engine room, and sweating and fighting and straining and lash- ing for hour after hour. And half the time the port side of the lame old duck under water. How she didn’t turn turtle is known only to Allah and Maturin; and One is good and the other’s a damned fine sailor. Of course, I had to go down into the inferno of the hold like the others. Part of the day’s work; but I didn’t like it; no one liked it. “When the order was given all hands tum- bled up to the hatchway and began swarming down the iron ladder. It was a swaying, stag- gering crowd. When you stand on a wet deck at an angle of forty-five degrees one way and thirty degrees another and constantly shifting both angles, with nothing but a rope lashed athwart the ship to catch hold of your mind is pretty well concentrated on yourself. I know mine was. I slipped and wallowed on my belly hanging on to the rope like grim death till my turn came for the ladder. I got my feet on the rungs, I was all right, when looking up into the livid daylight whom do you think I saw calmly preparing to follow me? Liosha. I hadn’t noticed her. She had sea-boots and a Jersey and looked just like a man. I roared: ‘“**Clear out. This is no place for you.’ “*T’'m coming. Go along down.’ “She put her foot on the rung just below my face. I gripped as much of her ankle as the stiff leather allowed. ““*Clear out. Don’t be a fool.’ ““Andrews, the first mate, poured out a flood of blasphemy. Why the this, that and the other were we waiting for? “*Mr. Andrews,’ I shouted, woman to her cabin.’ ‘““*Oh, go to hell! —Tumble down every one of you, or I'll damn soon make you,’ cried Andrews. ‘*He was in a vile temper, being responsible for the snugness of the cargo, and the cargo lay about as snug as a dormitory of devils. He was sorry afterwards, poor chap, for his lack of courtesy, but at the moment he didn’t care who went down into the hold, or who was killed, so long as this infernal cargo was righted and the crazy old tub didn’t go down. “So I descended. It was ordained. Liosha followed. And once down we were carried away out of ourselves by a nightmare of toil and peril. Andrews and second were there yelling orders. We obeyed in some subcon- scious way. How we heard I don’t know. For peace and quiet give me a battle-field. Twenty men in semi-darkness, scarce able to stand, fighting blind, mad forces of half a ton each. The huge crates of deal seemed so in- nocent and harmless on the quay side, but charging about that swaying, rocking lower deck, they looked malignant, like grimy blocks of Hell’s anger. I don’t know what I did. All I can say is that I never before felt my muscles about to snap—queer feeling that— and I think I’m about as tough as they make em. ‘send this ““T ITOSHA worked as well as any man in the bunch. I only caught sight of her now and then . . . you see what we had to do, don’t you? ... We had to secure all these infernal things that were running amuck and ease up the rest of the cargo that had got jammed on the port side. There were acci- dents. Three or four were knocked out. Petersen, the Swede, had his leg crushed. I didn’t know what was wrong at the time. He was working next me, and a roll of the ship brought an ugly crate over him. He couldn’t get up. He looked ghastly. So I took him on my back and clawed my way up the iron ladder and reached the deck somehow, and staggered along, barging into everything—it was blowing half a gale—and once I fell and he screamed like a pig, poor devil. But I picked him up and got him into the fo’c’sle and stuck him ina bunk. The Portugee cook, sick of fever—I think he’s a blighted malinger —was the only creature there. I routed him out, in the dim mephitic place reeking of sour bedding, and put Petersen in his charge. Then I went back through the drenching seas to the hatch. There was just enough room for a man’s body to squeeze through down the ladder. I went down into the same hell-broth of sweat and confusion and raucous. The ground you stood upon might have been the back of a super-Titanic butterfly. Stability was a non-existent term. It was a helpless scuttering surge of men and vast wooden cubes. Most of the men had torn off their upper garments and fought half naked, the sweat glistening on their skins in the feeble light. Soon the heat became unbearable and I, too, tore off Jersey and shirt. Liosha joined me and we worked together without speak- (Continued on page 82)

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IVING luxuriously at Hotel Chamberlin, one of America’s enjoying the cuisine of an epicure, ever-changing scenes on the Waters These are a few of the delights tful Way, eat resort hotels, mingling th your own kind of people, lf or tennis, dancing, walking, sea-bathing; watching the e life at one of the country’s rmy Posts, and fascinating, m Roads. you when you come to Old Point Comfort—to Hotel Chamberlin—to take the we a s and Baths under skilled medi- ion, and to drink the curative Nowhere else in America can you take “'The Cure” under such perfect conditions. Our Treatments and Baths are just as successful, just as scientifically administered as at Furope’s noted Spas. The famous Chamberlin Alkaline Saline Water, flowing always from a depth of goo feet, is highly Radio-active and has proven notably successful in those ailments due to uric acid. ; I will be glad to send you our book “Cured,” telling of many persons who have experienced the delights of getting well at Hotel Chamberlin. Other interesting books on our Treatments, the Hotel, the Climate and the Medicinal Water will be sent, if you wish these, too. Address : Geo. F. Adams, Manager, Box 711, Fortress Monroe, Va.

Harper's Bazar,

May, 1915

Charming Coats and Hats from ‘The Theatre of Fashion” RITE for this beautiful new book, “The Theatre of Fashion.” It is authentic. It is original and exclusive. It shows you scores of captivating coats and hats created by our own representatives in Paris, London, New York and Boston. Can you picture garments of more captivating style than those photo- graphed above? These coats—with hats to harmonize—are real ‘‘dis- coveries.” We have selected them especially as embodying the very finest fashions of the season, for the benefit of women wishing to order at once from this advertisement without waiting for catalog. Here are the descriptions. Remember that the Lamson & Hubbard guarantee insures excellence of materials throughout. Coat No. B 55—Highest style of street or motor coat after model by Jenny in two-toned whipcords in the various shades correct this sea- son. Suede leather belt. Silk lined throughout. One of the most exquisite models we have seen. Price $65 Hat No. B 142—Black straw hat with white silk crown. Trimmed with white feather effect fancies and superbly in keeping with the coat. Price $13 Coat Ne. B 53—The latest mode for sport or street, unlined, belted model coat in sand or olive coverts, all shades of corduroy, blue or black serge and checks of black and white, blue and black or green and black. Price $16.50 Hat No. B 146—Admirably chosen to set off the coat. A mannish Panama trimmed with band of plaid. Price $10 Coat No. B 96—Canary yellow corduroy sport coat. Lined through- out with yellow silk to match. Removal belt, patch pockets and ivoroid buttons. Price $15 Hat No. B 134—A happy combination with the coat. Hat of white Japanese rice straw. Panama style. Black band. Durable and easily folded to fit pocket. Price $6 68 BEDFORD STREET

INET RN Give bust measure for coats. Thorough satisfaction guaranteed or money refunded. Goods sent on approval on receipt of reference to any National Bank or reputable business house. If not ready to order immediately from this advertisement be sure to fill out and mail at once the coupon below: mon & Hubbard New England’s Leading Furriers BOSTON, MASS. LAMSON & HUBBARD Mail Order Dept. 68 Bedford Street, Boston, Mass. Please send me your new catalog ‘The Theatre of Fashion" show- ing latest styles in Coats, Raincoats, Panama and Tailored Hats, etc. Name. a a ee er = = =

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74 a | Breath e Deep (Continued from page 23) affect me. So I lengthened the morning period of deep breathing and added an evening version before going to bed, and made these exercises a part of my daily life, allowing nothing to interfere with them. Have you seen soldiers standing at atten- tion? That’s the first position. Then with lips firmly closed I inhale very deeply and, in doing so, raise my arms slowly until at the moment when the lungs are filled the two hands meet above my head. During the action of inhalation I have been raising my- self until I stand on tiptoe. To exhale I open my mouth. As my hands slowly descend and when the lungs are empty, my hands are by | my sides and my feet are level on the ground. There are many variants of this most simple exercise and all sorts of good but ungainly squatting positions that seek out miniature muscles and give them a painful prominence. I leave these to those who like them. For me, this one elementary exercise repeated slowly and with enjoyment twenty times, morning and evening, suffices amply. What- ever the worries or pleasures of the day, deep breathing precedes them; whatever the danger of a sleepless night, the evening exercises minimize them. I have discovered, too, that no physical exercise of any sort can be properly effective if the brain is concerned with prob- lems of any description. Deep breathing, practised as I have en- deavoured to describe, gives oxygen to the system and helps to burn up the waste prod- ucts that render blood impure and are a fre- quent and unsuspected source of headache. All the vital functions are stimulated by it, for no matter how dull and languid we may feel on waking, these breathing exercises give us a stimulus that turns a nervousness about the duties of the coming day into a positive anxiety to accomplish them. Deep breathing, too, is a weight reducer, though this is not generally known. Oxygen is a vowed enemy of fatty tissues, and by increasing the supply of oxygen the superfluous parts of us that are / such an ungainly tribute to good living or laziness tend to disappear. This fact alone should endear deep breathing to women of middle-age and comfortable circumstances. The bath, some friction with a rough towel, a little massage and plenty of deep breathing will atone for a lot of the errors of modern life. As a preventive against illness, for the devel- opment of the lungs, and as the sworn foe of the tubercular tendency, deep breathing can hardly be overpraised. I would like to see it made obligatory in every school and col- lege in the country, the few minutes required would be well spent. I would like to see it as much a part of the daily curriculum of school life as prayers, it would be well for every boy and girl to know that upon their faithful attention to it throughout their lives, a part of their capacity to make life a success must depend. To-day countless thousands, perhaps it would be as correct to say countless millions of people, use only a part of their lungs, the upper part. The rest of the organ is only called upon in seasons of great exertion and is quite unable to respond to the call. It has degenerated into an unhealthy condition. In such a state the human organism is liable to be attacked by the ever present germ of phthisis, or by pneumonia or pleurisy, follow- ing chills or exposure. More than one dis- tinguished doctor to whom I have appealed for support of my theories has agreed that deep breathing, universally practised, would have a marked effect upon both the national health and the national character. The difficulty is that men and women, particularly women, are a little bit shy of the simple remedies that lie at their doors. They get into the mental state in which they are prone to throw aside the very lightest burden, if they can but hand it over to others. They prefer the hum- bugs who advertise “proven ability” to work miracles, to their own adviser who may mix some plain and unpalatable truths with his prescription. For these people it is vain to cater. Many years ago Schiller wrote: ‘‘ Against stupidity, the gods themselves strive in vain,’ and this was true not only long before he set it down, but has been true ever since. Happily we are waking to-day to the need for helping ourselves, and to the knowledge that none can help us so well. Hats of the Hour from Maria Guy (Continued from page 44) in the accompanying photographs because a picture cannot portray it adequately. It must be worn. Large, flat hats will be used for afternoon wear, and the trimming, of course, is placed flat. For evening wear—and this year almost all evening gatherings are of the informal kind that requires hats—we are making smaller shapes covered with tulle or maline. One of these worn by Forzane is typical. The straw is very light, flesh-coloured and supple. The brim is covered with a téte de négre fancy maline veil, and the whole hat is clouded in a maze of téte de négre tulle illusion. A fea- ture, vastly becoming to Forzane, is the little i!lusion curtain which drops below the brim, as it were, and shades the eyes. Another of Forzane’s evening hats is en- tirely of black maline. Here, too, a fold of the material is placed. lightly on the edge of the brim, giving an airy effect to the whole hat, whose chic consists entirely in the way the huge bow of moire is placed. \ cross between an afternoon and evening hat is the little black straw shape, distin- guished by the immense black tulle bow in the hack. This bow is wired by a black jet beading, which forms a sort of a border and, Women Who at the same time, gives a sparkling note to the hat. Ostrich feathers, especially tips, are coming into their own again. We are using them placed around the crown, as is illustrated in the accompanying photograph. As trim- ming, we make use of wings, or fantaisies of the simplest kind, such as a few little feathers, gilded and shaped like a beetle or arrange in the shape of a hatpin, or again as flowers, ribbon and quills. Costly trimmings, aigrettes, paradise, et cetera, are, as the well-dressed woman knows, quite passé. We will have no lavish display of wealth this year, or of beauty for its own sake. A woman who appeared in the Bois the other afternoon with a corsage a bit low cut and with a string of large pearls around her neck was hooted and hissed off the walk. The scene is characteristic. We want our women to be beautiful, but we do not wish them to make a point of show- ing it. We want them to be chic, but the effect must be obtained by good taste and m- genuity, and not by a mere vulgar display of sumptuous adornments. The woman who is truly chic and élégante to-day is she who is most inspired by the magical word, fact. Achieve (Continued from pace 20) likeness to her portraits and! has spelled suc- cess for her as a miniaturist. The wax used is a mineral! wax, and the colours combined with it are powdered and consist only of those that have withstood a chemical test and are, therefore, considered permanent. The colours are worked into the soft pliable wax, and the wax. modeled care- fully with the fmgers and the simplest model- ing toot, piece by piece against a wax back- ground, until the profile portrait is-fermed. The Spread “ OW do: yow spell your name?” asked HH the secretary at one of the centres of a Suffrage League, of a woman who. had expressed her desire to be enrolled asa member. “(Q-r-k-i-n-s,” was the reply; “we're Eng- lish-born,. but my ’usband was made:a citizen last year, andi then we decided to change the As. a means of portraying the subtle flesh tones of the child and the curly hair in a frank, lifelike and unaffected portrait, Miss Mundy’s miniatures have found their most popular expression, although her subjects are not strictly confined to children. The framing of a medium so sensitive to dust must necessarily be considered with great care. This has-been provided for in the air-tight frames, especially made: for these medallions, which are carved to harmonize with the portrait. of Phoneti spellin’ of our name, and to write it the way. it’s. pronounced. ’E’s strong for the modern improvements, is my ‘usband; and, as ’e says, ‘What's. the use of keepin’ up wore-out forms, and spellin? your name H-a-w-k-i-n-s,. when ‘tis always pronounced Orkins? Drop the old lies-in. the mew lan,’ ’e says; and I’m with *‘m. Q+-ki-ns, please!

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| THE AMERICAN SUGAR REFINING COMPANY | | prec AES VIENNESE FOURRES ||, '*" 7. Y, ae A delicious foreign confec tion. The thin trans- Improve our Face parent jacket of crisp sugar reveals a luscious BY MAKIN A truemamarladestuflingorarichnutcenter. An | | ‘ ede CES , endless variety of shapes and fillings. Packed ——~ FOF SPC REAPS UT COE ° ° : . “Sm A This book contains a QnieNsate Fowosh, | in sanitary full-weight tins. One pound 6oc., compiete course of in- - ; ae tage 219] if v structions in Physical Restores gray hair to original color: ¥} 5 Ib. tin $2.50, postage prepaid. Or, if you Culture for the Face. sent postpaid on receipt of price, $2.00 would try first, send roc for sample. stays on the face one may leave the boudoir secure in 3 - . 2 + —_t this knowledge 4 — streaked, or life- — EL KZAR comes to you just as it is received from Paris—in ery hl tay FRAGRANCE lines ee eet attractive little, odd-shaped eme.alt glass pots, at $3.75, postpaid : a Mistlike Softness ess 1t may be, Enough for mont Characterize this perfect powderfortheface only one applica- tion of LaGoutte- a-Goutte will re- store the color to any shade of black, brown, drab or red. LaGoutte-a- Goutte is harmless, does not discolor the scalp, makes a lovely, rich, lasting color that does not fade or rub off on pillow. Makes the hair soft and glossy, with a natural, full-of-life appearance, and it can be washed as usual. IT REQUIRES ONLY « ONE APPLICATION AND NO AFTER SHAM- POO IS NECESSARY; takes only a few min- utes, and can be applied yourself in the privacy of your home. Any one of 32 shades you wish i is given from the ONE package. Price, $1.25, postpaid. Order direct, or, if you’d first like to see how well it will’ appear on your hair Send me a Little Lock of Your And every Jar o 7} L KZAR sent to HARPER'S BAZAR readers, will be accompanied by a sample of Dr. Dys’ CREME DE BEAUTE ” 7 his finest face powder. State shade desired. CIC. n eC} S PERSONAL FACIAL TREATMENTS, $2. BOOKLET. Vv. DARSY 14 West = Sivect IMPORTED ASPASIA POWDER New Yor $1.50 at Department and Drug Stores One of 140 Leichner specialties for the

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We direct speciai attention to the advance summer productions of the Dressmakin?, Department which will also collaborate with patrons to create individual designs and original effects in gowns for any occasion. Constant con- nection with Paris renders this establishment the foremost introducers of fashion in America GDORF OODMAN lmporters and Creators Gowns ‘Suits ‘Wraps 616 FIFTH AVENUE ETWEEN 4Q™AND S0™STS. NEW YORK Porch Shades YATE LOY he Every shade equipped with Vudor Safety Wind Device Make Cool Porches Strong—Effective—Last for Years Over 600,000 in daily use Write FoR ArT BOOKLET AND DEALER’s NAME Hough Shade Corporation Janesville Wis May, Harper's Bazar, | | | irritated. Eltham House (Continued from page 28) and the rest rose to take their departure; so much so that Durrant remarked upon it to Llewellyn, as they walked away together. “What was wrong with Alec? He seemed to have something on his mind?” “Tt’s true, I understand, about that dinner and H. M..,”’ said Llewellyn cautiously. Durrant shrugged his shoulders. “But of course it’s true! What else did Alec expect? Why can’t he make up his mind to take his snubs like a man. He’s got Carrie, and Eltham House, and pots of money. Did he think everybody was going to shake hands and make it up, besides?” EANWHILE Alec, on turning back again from the outer hall where he had taken leave of his guests, to rejoin Carrie upstairs, perceived a letter lying on the hall table. It was addressed to him, and he opened it eag- erly. The hot colour rushed to his temples; he crushed it violently in his hand, and mounted the stairs in moody thought At the top of the stairs a little figure in black crossed his path. ‘‘Good-night, Mr. Wing,” said a shy voice. “Oh, good-night,”” he said, with a sudden effort at courtesy, holding out a perfunctory hand. The figure disappeared along the east- ern corridor. “That’s a_ blessing!’’—he thought. “I wonder if I can stand her always about.” He found Carrie in her sitting-room, open- ing the letters of the evening. She had ex- changed her evening dress for something soft and flowing, and her radiant looks showed not a trace of fatigue. “‘Wasn’t it a pleasant evening, Alec?” she said joyously as he entered, holding out her hands to him. Then, arrested by his expres- sion, she changed her tone “Darling!—is there anything wrong?” He threw himself into a chair beside her, made a movement to give her the letter in his hand, thought better of it and put it in his pocket. “They won’t have me at Hull,” he said, trying to laugh off the blow. ‘Never mind. We'll be even with them yet—hypocrites!” “Won't have you at Hull?’ she repeated. “You don’t mean “T do mean it, I mean just that. suit their Puritanical taste. I don’t [= colour died out of Caroline’s cheeks, and then returned upon them with a rush. “What have they to do with our private affairs!’’ she said passionately. “Bothwell writes a very decent letter,” said Wing, after a pause. ‘‘He says the news papers on the other side have got hold of the divorce reports, and are threatening to. repub- lish them—with the Judge’s remarks, ‘etc. if they bring me down; so he just begs mé not to come—‘very sorry’ of course—and that’s all!” Caroline was silent a moment out bitterly— “Tt’s perfectly intolerable there should be this persecution! Why can’t they let us alone!”’ Wing sprang up, and began to pace the room with his hands in his pockets. ‘Well, we’ve got to make up our minds, Carrie, what we’re going to do! Am I to knuckle under—give up all thought of politics take to farming—or aeroplaning—anything you like—or are we going to stick to it, through thick and thin? If there is a general election this autumn—and they’re all talking of it at the clubs—am I to stand or not? Will the Whips give me a chance, or won’t they? Is there any way of inducing them to give me a chance?” Then his tone changed- “Look here! I’ve got something very in- teresting to tell you. She looked up. He described the scene at the Forwards Club and the despairing cry for funds. ‘Then I went on to see Pater at Claridge’s—just caught him. Well, of course, he’s all for delay—I’m not; I don’t believe time will make any difference what- -— unless we choose to wait till you and I, darling, are both old dodderers! And he doesn’t believe in an election—and on the whole I do—some time in the autumn. But he’s a brick all the same. Practically, I may have whatever money I please, to use as I please—a cool hundred thousand if necessary. He knows everything about the straits the party is in, and he’s ready to back me to the last. But, of course, he won’t pay till he knows whether the goods will be delivered!” “Which means’’—Carrie had dropped her voice, and was looking at him with wide anx- ious eyes—“‘till you know whether they’ll give. you a seat or not. You are to buy your seat? “Well, darling—and doesn’t a man buy his baronetcy or his peerage?—what’s the difference? All I buy is the chance of getting a few thousand duffers to elect me.” then broke H, Alec, it’s dangerous!’ she said, after a moment, in a tone that trembled. Wing looked at her, half amused, half If it “You needn’t look so scared, Carrie! 1915 76 did come off—it wouldn’t be exactly published in the newspapers. It would be known to about three people besides you and me—the Opposition Whips—and Pater.” “That doesn’t make it any better—not a bit better!’’ she said earnestly. ‘Don’t do it, Alec, don’t!” "He could not understand her distress, and began to be angered by it. “Don’t do what? Anybody may offer money to the party. And as for my part in it, it’s a mere incident of war,”’ he said, bit- terly. ‘‘You and I are at war, Carrie, with a lot of people who want to humiliate and pun- ishus. We must just understand that. Pater understands it perfectly! If I’m ever to recover my place and my opportunity, we must play every card we've got. And itis absurd not to recognize that money is per- haps our biggest card—money—and Carrie!” He came to stand behind her, and dropped a light kiss on her hair. She sat irresponsive, her face in shadow, her hands on her knee. “How did you ever do it?” she asked after a pause. ‘‘How does one do such a thing?” ERFECTLY simple! I write to our Whips to say I want a seat for the General Elec- tion, and such and such a seat would suit me. Will they adopt me as an official candidate and recommend me to the local people? - the same time, by the same post, perhaps, Pater writes to them to ask confidentially about the party funds—says that I have been advis- ing him to contribute a substantial sum— something of that kind! Easiest thing pos- sible! Well, then they have to make up their minds. Will they risk it?—or will they refuse what will fill their war chest?” “Alec, dear!—won’t you wait a little— after all?” she said, suddenly holding up her arms to him—and drawing his face down to hers—‘‘I don’t—I don’t believe you could keep such a thing—such—a—a bargain from Mr. Washington. And, Alec, you can't buy people like Mr. Washington—and Mr. Llewellyn. If they think it would dam- age the party to help you to a seat—they won’t do it—whatever you offer them. And you would be so disappointed if they refused- and I should be so miserable!’ He drew himself away. ““My dear, what’s the good of being as beautiful as you are, if you can’t influence a man like Washington? All the world knows that he can’t say ‘No’ to a pretty woman.” He came round her chair to stand in front of her, flushed and laughing, his hands on his sides. “Tf I were to ask Mr. Washington to do something he thought dishonourable he’d never look at me or speak to me again, or Mr. Llewellyn either,’’ she said with vehe- mence. ‘“‘Oh, do understand, dear Alec! Don’t trust to money! Trust to making friends. There are many kind people who indeed! what we will give us a chance—there are When they’ve had time to forget did.” He looked at her, fairly amazed. ‘Don’t trust to money!’ Why I thought you understood Pater’s plan, and agreed with it, Carrie! What on earth are we here for— in Eltham House—if we're not going to use all the weapons we can against this British Philistinism and cant? If not, better go and live in a cottage on twopence a year! We're here, I repeat, to bluff it—to see if we can’t force the position—fight the Pharisees —and beat them! And I thought you agreed, Carrie—you did agree!” he repeated. KNOW—1'll do anything I can!” she said, - pleadingly. ‘‘ But you see, Alec, since that evening we came home, I’ve got to know some of these men in these three months. They've been awfully good to me. Take Mr. Washington, for instance. I can’t tell you what I feel about him. He’s such a real great man—and so—so kind and true. I should hate to offend him—to set him against us. And Mr. Llewellyn! What does he care about our being rich?—not a pin!—it makes not the smallest difference to him. But I think he’s really—well—sorry for us’’—her voice faltered a little. “**Sorry for us!’” ful astonishment. repeated Alec in wrath- “What on earth do you mean, Carrie? What is there to pity, I should like to know? You and I love each other, and we've had a jolly good time. We mean to go on having a jolly good time, don’t we? Let him keep his pity to himself!” ‘Perhaps he envies us, too—for our love!”’ she said steadily. ‘“‘I know he does. I see that in him. But all the same he knows very well that we’ve set the world against us, and that ’’—she turned away, and her voice grew muffled—‘I’ve lost Carina—and—let’s go gently, darling! We're not very old, are we?—and we go on making friends all the time. 4 ‘And much good it does us! Look at that letter!” he pointed to it as it lay on her lap. ‘“‘Didn’t you have that man here?— didn’t we both make ourselves as pleasant (Continued on page 78) aa Noa

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ementen The Cruisette vs eA > a. PP IIE rea rae + ” When You Own a CRUISETTE (Trade Mark) s most wonderful little craft that ever rode the water : complete. y Only 32 ft. long, yet she has sleep- ; ing comfort for six. She is sea- | worthy, speedy and simple—with * a trimness of lines that makes you immensely proud of her. The en- ‘ gine having been especially de- ° Pe vibration and ease of control that , are truly remarkable, and she is ; not expensive—to buy or to oper- ate. Other ELCO Standardized - Models are equally famous. . The 45-ft. ELCO Cruiser with its , private stateroom and all the other i f ? U comforts of the 60-ft. Motor Yacht. ( » The ELCO Express with thenew ~ , model ELCO Engine “Serves you * on the water as the automobile > * does on land”-—gracefully beauti- ‘ “ ful, absolutely reliable, and with } h, speed which we guarantee. { ; Send fora copy of “ Marine Views” ie and the edition de luxe— i %. “The Cruise of the Cruisette’”’ 7 {, THE ELCO COMPANY ; \ Main Office and Works ' 189 Avenue A, Bayonne, New Jersey «New York Office, 5 Nassau Street | A } —_—_ xxet you have the daintiest and « and your satisfaction is * signed for her there is a lack of |”, AY) Buy your corsets and lingerie at the * of Personal Service BARNS [a ANS [4 PATRIG SHOPS BOSTON NEW YORK 120 Boylston St. 509 Fifth Ave. THE STOCKING STORE 395 Broadway, N. Y. C. (Mail Order Only) Fairest mail order hosiery house in America. Handle imported and do- mestic hosiery of every description. OUR REPUTATION—Unless you find our prices the very lowest, as well as our hosiery the very best, your money refunded. Unless our hosiery gives complete satisfaction, shall replace same. To introduce the merit of our hosiery, note the following specials: FOR MEN-—Silk fibre half hose, looks as good as any $1.50 thread silk hose on the market; made for wear as well as looks; has high spliced heel with double silk fibre sole; comes in black, white, and colors. Value 35c; special, 25c dozen. FOR WOMEN-—Silk fibre stocking, wide iZarter top, high spliced heel, double fibre sole, | looks as good as any $1.50 thread silk stocking jon the market; made for wear as well as looks; | comes ” ble ack, white, and a large variety of {colors. Value 75c a pair; special, 50c a pair, , $5.60 a dozen. { Catalogue sent on request. a large variety of | a pair, $2.80 a | Harper’s Bazar, May, 1915 Soop bag OY | | | | | oe rory | HI I ; fo | | } POX renee Uo wet Ch sty (Sranes inencaon [THE CORRECT WRITING PAPER] It is a paper of wonder- ul fineness and beauty in its texture, and it has had the sanction of socially well-informed people since it was first produced EATON CRANE & PIKE COMPANY New York Pittsfield, Mass The Charm of Model Gowns And At Prices You Can Easily Afford UST the sort of frock you’ve dreamed of—a gown that possesses those Parisienne touches which mean so much to well-dressed women, noted for their individu- ality and smartness in dress. You'll find that very garment among the Maxon Model Gowns. All our gowns are the offerings of the leading Parisian and American They were shown once on forms, and are not worn The gown is new to you. You can buy two frocks, either for street, afternoon or evening wear, for the same price usually considered elsewhere a fair price And all are originals—no two alike. If you can wear model sizes, visit our modest shop before you decide on your next gown or wrap—compare prices, styles Like many of the best-dressed women in New York, you’ll not only save money, but actually dress more dis- tingué and win the admiration of your friends or neighbors Prices Range $20 $50 MANY SELECTED MODELS $60—$125 ff Approval Shipments. quiries answered over 50 miles from modistes. or even shop worn. for one alone. and values. No Catalogs — No No in- New York. not urged to buy. The lingerie gowns, so dainty with their hand embroidery and lace, are a reve lation this season. They have an undeniable charm. Thewr prices range $15-$50 Some exquisite blouses—French models and no two alike, with those French finishing touches made by master needleworkers, are offered from $5 to $12 Their values range from $9 to $22. Call and see these gowns or blouses for yourself—even try them on. A vtstt will pleasantly surprise you. ‘ You are MAXON Estab. 1899 15852 Broadway a nny Kit Model Gowns (46th St.) New York ee ee a iy mM 77 No two of which are alike. AF” nest ac TL (ul (Nh wali in 5 means Cottage Furniture FOR SHORE AND MOUNTAINS Good furniture designed on simple lines; chairs, reproducing several of the best old New England models: tables, plain and gate-legged,—in fact everything needed for the harmonious furnishing of your rome. PLAN YOUR * FURNISHING NOW @ Send for our prints, make your selections, choose your stains to carry out the color schemes of your rooms, and your furniture will be awaiting shipping instructions for delivery when needed, d Over 200 ex amples to choose from and innumer- able different stains in which they can be finished to har monize with in terior surround ings e also furnish our pieces unfinished, if so desired. @ Shipments care fully made, insur ing safe delivery Send for complete set No. 8, of over 200 illustrations and color chart. You will find possibilities and suggestions for every room in your house. LL William Leavens & Co 32 heseneni Street, Boston, Mass. : mn MAN Ee SOCIAL ENGRAVING in Fashion’s latest approved styles WEDDING INVITATIONS, MARRIAGE ANNOUNCEMENTS, AT HOME CHURCH, and CALLING CARDS Writing Papers in exclusive sizes and tints. An added dignity if your paper is Die Stamped ’ ° Commercial 7 ° Engraving Steel or Copper Plate Letter Headings Note Headings Business Announcements Removal Notices Booklets FREE Samples of any of thea HOSKINS ENGRAVERS, STAT/IO ent by mat 904-906 Chestnut St. PHILADELPHIA, PA. VERS, PRINTERS N/A cL a Re

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\ iS S — cM Ay lady of the dance finds the way to preserve her pristine freshness **Truth to tell’’ she has found complete relief from the excessive perspiration which caused her so much annoyance. ne Andnotonly when she is treading the measure but for all time! She has discarded dress shields, has found them entirely un- necessary, and yet—keeps her every gown and blouse unstained, fresh and dainty! Fr Her gloves, too, are kept free from stains and stiffness. ro How? With Odorono! Two applications a week correct the unnatural profuse perspiration of armpits, feet and hands— —keep the parts naturally dry, dainty and odorless, and make dress shields a thing of the past. Unscented. Harmless. Easily applied. DO-RO-NO THE TOILET WATER FOR EXCESSIVE PERSPIRATION Three Sizes The 25¢ trial size, the 50c regular size, and the $1 special size, which contains six times as much as the 25c¢ size. Atall druggists, dept. stores and women's s pecial- ty shops, or direct jJrom us prepaid. Write for sample and booklet fully ex- plaining the cause of excessive perspira- tion and how to cor- rectitl. Both will be Sent fcr 6c in stamps and your dealer's name. Address The Odorono Co., 251 Blair Avenue Cincinnati, O. ODORONO Co. fil} CINCINNATI O Isn't it healthy to perspire? Yes, but not all perspiration is healthy! There is a little booklet that tells you why. It explains fully the cause of the excessive perspiration which has caused you so much annoyance and embarrassment, and tells you how to correct it. this booklet today? See offer above. Igls Har per Basar, Ma May we send you | Eltham (Continued from page to him as we could?—didn’t I offer to help him with his election expenses?—and what was the use of it all! He thinks just as we do the British But about that ass, public! when the pinch comes, he shirks. Hard facts, Carrie!—that’s what we’ve got to face. And it may sound gross—but the only way to beat them is by hard cash!’ The two young creatures faced each other, divided for the first time in the history of their passion by a real conflict of feeling. In him, the arrogance, the excited will, the funda- mental stupidity of a spoilt darling of fortune, accustomed to make the world give way, were infuriated by any real or prolonged resistance. The same excited will had pre- vailed, when, finding the beautiful woman with whom he had fallen desperately in love, alone and undefended in Florence, he had laid violent siege to her, and had finally carried her off from her husband and children in triumph. And now it was incredible to him that he should not be able by similar methods—as violent and as determined—to force his way back into the old position of vantage he r ud thrown away. While in Carrie, on the other hand, this renewed contact with English life had brought back upon her all the force of old traditions the traditions of conduct, honourable, law- abiding, self-controlled, which had surrounded her childhood and youth within grey college walls. Her pe srsonal defiance, in truth, had spent itself. For Alec’s sake she was ready to brave and attempt most things. But new compunctions—new perceptions—were busy in her. She was scarcely conscious of them. But she was aware at least of a sighing wish to recover her position with men of high char- acter—good men whom she must needs respect like Mr. Llewellyn, and Richard Washing- ton—-who had treated her gently and respect- fully, when good women had renounced her. She had begun to foresee—vaguely—a long process of reconciliation, ‘ and delicate, and ultimately successful. vain dream, perhaps, for it involved making the best of two wholly incompatible worlds. But it had comforted her conscience. And now here was Alec spoiling everything! For it seemed to her she already knew the men he had to deal with better than he did. She rose, and put her arms gently round his neck. ‘“‘Alec!—can’t you do it in other ways! Even if the people at headquarters—here in London—agreed, how could they answer for the local people. It would be Hull over again. Be patient, dearest! When I hear you and Mr. Llewellyn talking, I feel so sure you'll do splendid things some day! Why, don’t you take up the housing on the estates? There’s lots wants doing. Mr. Llewellyn suggested it to me. Pater would give you all the money you want. You might lead the way for E ngli ind! And then they couldn't keep you out! IS face darkened. He took, her hands in his and dre w them down. “My dear Carrie!—if I don’t get into Parlia- ment soon, I shall never get into office, and for an ambitious man—and I am ambitious! I have set my heart on politics since I was in knickerbockers—what are politics without office? It will take me longer now than other people to get to the front—and I want my chance!’ And almost throwing her hands from him in the passion of his mood, he began to pace the room in front of her. She followed him, pleading ‘Alec, dear Alec!—let us make friends! not try to bribe. You know how angry people have been lately about buying honours peerages and decorations! Wouldn’t there be an outcry, if it were ever known or sus- pected that your father had paid £100,000 to make the Whips adopt you? Wouldn't it be called all sorts of horrid names? “It wouldn’t be known!” he said, frowning. ‘These things are generally in the hands of one man. Trust my father to manage it.” “But it might so easily get out’’—she said breathlessly. ‘And how can it be kept from Mr. Washington—or Mr. Llewellyn? Alec, they'll never risk the party for £100,000!” He was silent a moment, and then said, looking at her rather darkly “And when I do try to make friends, you are jealous directly!” She wavered a moment, as though she had been struck. He had never yet spoken to ad in that tone and with that look. Then flushed crimson and turned away. “ey don’t mean friends like that!” “Like what?’ “T am certain that woman is flirting with you!” she said proudly. “‘T see it in her whole manner to you. She is trying to lead you on to make a conquest of you! Else why should she ask you perpetually?—and why should you go to her, Alec? You have lunched with “her three times in ten days and paid calls in the afternoon besides. And at the féte, yesterday, she simply made a slave of you! People will talk, I tell you, if it goes on!” \h!—she was the jealous woman now—no longer the prudent and diplomatic adviser. House 70) Her breath came fast. The elemental feeling which had swept them together broke through, undoing for the moment all the recovered in- stincts and habits. He looked at her in amazement— indignant—yet half appeased. ‘arrie—you are a goose! Why, I asked you beforehand if I might go and sce Mrs. Whitton—if I might accept her invitation without you; and you promised ised—not to be jealous. Every time she has asked me, it has been to meet somebody political. You might have heard everything! Well, upon my word, if this is the way you are going to treat me, when I do try to follow your advice, and ‘make friends,’ I don’t see how you can expect me to pay much atten- tion to you!” She saw at once that she had made a bad mistake, and that he triumphed over her. But her outburst had been beyond her con- trol. It was the result, unforeseen by her as by him, of a hundred creeping fears, small wounds, accumulating hurts. She had prom- ised, and she had meant to keep her promise. But in these two months, had she already be- come conscious of the truth of Lord Wing’s warning that she had most to fear from her own sex?—from the women who would be only too ready to welcome Alec back to their society, while they ostracised herself? She had begun to feel herself obscurely threatened in her passion, her possession—from many quarters; to be conscious of enemies in the dark whom she could not see. Hence this con- flict in her between old and new, between the reviving instincts of prudence and high think- ing, and the instincts of passion. He pursued his advantage at once. ND if it comes to that’’—he said, hal smiling 2! yet bitter I don’t think you need talk, Carrie! Any one could set that that fellow meal to-night, was mak- ing love to you! “ Alec!!—when I was thinking of you the whole time I was talking to him. I was pumping him—trying to get to know things simply for your sake—for nothing else in the world! Well, that is hard!” She fell into her chair, hiding her face in her hands, her pride struggling with her tears. He stood over her half ashamed, yet full of a vague irritation, which was another kind of jealousy from hers, and yet was jealousy. “T didn’t mean it, Carrie—of course, I didn’t. Don’t cry. I’m a brute. But look here!—I can’* only succeed through you! you can’t expect a man to accept that posi- tion—you really can’t. I must stand on my own feet and fight my own fight, however you help me. Of course you get on with men like Robert Llewellyn and Washington. You’re a pretty woman!—they want to please you. But it doesn’t follow that J shall get any- thing out of them for your beaux yeux, Carrie. What I feel the whole time is that they accept you and draw the line at me!” She lifted a pale face. “Alec, just have patience! —till next year. There won't be an election! % ‘There probably will,”” he said_ steadily. " And there’s a seat in Staffordshire I want. ‘Just a few weeks, Alec!—because I ask you!” “*T should lose my chance,” he said doggedly She rose, despairing, and so wounded, so annoyed that he should have been able to deny her, that she could not—or would not— speak another word. She gathered up a book and some letters and moved towards the door. He stood look- ing at her in silence. Both were conscious that something new and sad had happened to them—not beyond repairing, oh no!— not really touching their love—but still pointing forward to a new scene, a new chap- ter in their history. She opened the door, looked back at him, her dark eyes one mute and splendid reproach and disappeared. She hurried along the corridor, holding down her pain. The house was dark, and heavy with the scent of flowers—a few shaded lights here and there, which burnt through the night. In the gallery running round the central staircase, a window had been left open on the garden side. It was long past midnight and all was still. A windy moon- light was on the grass; the plane trees tossed and sighed. And round the dim oasis of the garden ran the night-murmur of London, like a receding voice. Caroline stopped a mo- ment to breathe in + a freshness of the wind that was stirring the curtains. The house seemed to her stifling. and for a moment she hated it. Then in the garden wing, at the end of which lay her own rooms, she perceived a light in another open window. Joyce! So late? SHE went on, filled with a slight sudden remorse that she had thought so little of the girl since dinner. While she was still talking to a servant about some letters for the midnight post, Joyce had said a quiet good-night and disappeared. But the quick sympathy in Caroline protested that on this first night in the great strange house, it woul have been kind to show the newcomer to ha (Continued on page 80)

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CREME DE MERIDOR GREASELESS ag Piggies popular lead- ing lady, says: “I have used i 9 Creme de Meridor and find it most excellent.” N Creme de Meridor | ‘ AKE your collar foun- applied witha gen- t lub J N dations in a minute with tle, but thorough massage, preserves a deli- C u Cocktai Ss N oe cate complexion. Offered by all good hostesses uUror ee wom eae . or sensitive your skin may —whenever the occasion de- be, you will find the use of mands a cocktail of surpassing N N ck S rt Cr : : r reme de Meridor pleas- richness and flavor. N e wear uppo ant and refreshing, and a \ positive protection from So simple to serve — merely N It adds comfort, style and distinction to every sun, wind and dust. It strain through ice. No mixing; X variety of the Tango, Gladstone, Medici, Elizabethan will not grow hair. no fussing with different ingre- N and Military collars or ruches. De Meridor Face Powder dients. N This dainty, invisible, silk-covered, thread-like wire may You will never know the N Y» : delight of using a really CLUB COCKTAILS are mixed N ea — and quickly ag se — any — It ae fine, dainty tite powder le Shape you give it. “nough tor one collar, 1oc.; Dy until you have tried De by experts and then are aged N the yard, 25c. “At your store, or sold direct where dealer Meridor Face Powder. in the wood, to secure the true ne nate ’ Made in four tints. “It’s the perfection of the blend. | . ig A - prah pertige ae a NJ Paris—JOSEPH W. SCHLOSS CO.—New York gor ct pape peapaenn All Varieties at Your Dealer's N ; Sample of cach sent on request N Fifth Avenue and 21st Street, N. Y. The De Meridor Co. G.F.HEUBLEIN & BRO. | §N M’f’r’s of Cushion “EVE” Collar Support 6 Johnes St., Newburgh, N. Y. Hartford New York London | N Importers of the famous Brand’s A-] Sauce N Qernnnccrnnnnrnrrr cnn nnnnannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnqngqnnnnawdy YOU CAN; WEIGH EX. ACTLY WHAT YOU SHOULD You can—I know you can, because | yO af er), * zi tes: have reduced 32,000 women and have / ‘a Arly ) built up that many more—scientifically, A % | naturally, without drugs, in the privacy = } of their own rooms, Homesick for the country? Fevered, heart-weary : of the city’s dust and din? Try losing yourself in : You Can Be So Well! the fragrance of Lilas Arly—it is Spring’s perfect ; — incarnation. Let the sweet, clean country claim you for an hour. All the day will be happier, fuller of sweet- ness for this suggestion of May and lilacs all a-bloom down garden paths. ) DYAN PN) 04489) Gite) s (0) Ses Insure Foot Comfort. FREE, UR Spring and Summer Catalog congaining Dr. Dalsimer’s article on **Care of the Feet shows the latest styles in perfect fitting shoes for Women, Menand Children —6 widths, all lengths. The Dalsimer ** Nurses DeLyte” Shoe (illustrated) is made of soft Duree Kid or White Canvas ;seamless, tlexible soles, rubber heels, for street or house wear. Lace or Button, high or low; sizes 14% to 10, AA to F. PREPAID, ———— We Guarantee to Fit and Satisfy You Perieetly or Refand Your Money. Write for FREE Catalog NOW. S. Dalsimer & Sons, sioner Philadelphia 7 ESAS STEAY If you only knew how wellt I build up your vitality—at the same time I strength- en your heart ac- tion; teach you how to breathe, to stand, walk and relieve such uilments as are “‘as acloud before the sun” hiding your Be a nanny your beauty. Why Lilas Arly is that rare treasure, a perfume which you cannot distinguish from the flowers themselves. Extract $3.00 and $1.00. ‘Toilet Water $2.50. Talcum 50¢. Face Powder $1.00 Sachet $1.00. not remove them? Don’t delay. STILLMAN’S f=" Made especially to remove freckles. Leaves the skin clear, smooth and with- outa blemish. Prepared by specialists with years of experience. Money refunded if not satisfactory. 50c perjar. Write to- lay for particulars and free booklet. ““Wouldst Thou Be Fair’’ “ontains many beauty hints, and lescribes a number of elegant \, preparations fee ap ee the oilet. Sold by all druggists. STILLMAN CREAM Co. Dept. 9 Aurora, Ill. Nervousness, Torpid Liver, Constipation, Indigestion, Etc. One pupil writes: “I weigh 83 pounds less, and I have gained wonderfully tin strength.” For Sale in Toilet Goods Depart- ments of the better class. Send 15 cents to Riker & HEGEMAN Co., 340 West Fourth St., New York, for liberal sample bottle of Lilas Arly Extract. Another says: “Last May! weighed 100 pounds, this ont I weigh 126, a ohl I feel SO WEL Won't you sit down and write now for my interesting booklet ? WHILE YOU SLEEP B. & P. Wrinkle Eradicators or Frowners smooth out the wrinkles and crow’s feet that mar your beauty. They are absolutely harmless—simple and easy to use—a toilet necessity. Made in two styles Frowners for between the eyes. Fvradicators for lines in the face. You Are Welcome To It—It Is FREE A it, you may forget it. I have po ee experience and I should like to tell you about it. Susanna Cocroft Either kind sold in 25c., S0c., and $1.00 boxes, in Dept. 24 cluding a booklet **Dressing Table Hints,’’ at drug and 624 Michiann Boulevard, department stores everywhere. If your dealer cannot HICAGO supply you, sent direct, postpaid, on receipt of price. B. & P. Co. (Two Women) x - : Miss Cocroft is a college bred woman. She is the recog- 1790 E. 68th Street, Cleveland, Ohio } nized authority on the scientific care of the | health and figure of women Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 79

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This illustration also shows neck and chin reducer. stomach, lL means to keep it BUST REDUCER, $5.00 Made of Dr. Walter’s famous fl ducing rubber, with coutil back. esh-re- The reducing qualities of this gar- ment are remarkable, at the same time it gives added comfort and style Also Union Suits, Stockings, Jackets, etc., for the purpose of reducing the flesh any- where desired. Invaluable to those suffer- the wrinkled ing from rheumatism These garments are made to cover the en- body or any part ve results from their use are quick, and they are absolutely harmless, being endorsed by leading physicians. DR. JEANNE WALTER and fit anyone Inventor and Patentee 48 FIFTH 1962— Double Frill Blouse of imported voile, Val lace trim- med, in Flesh and White. Special $2.00 irper's Bazar, Ma AVENUE RA NEW YORK 1946—- Blouse of imported While voile, embroidered of pink or blue. Organdie collar and cuffs piped with French linen to match flowers Very Special $2.95 2067 — Georgette Crepe ollar and cuffs and inserts of Mexican lace, $5.00 Eltham House (Continued from page 78) room, to exchange a few cousinly words with her before sleep. Some yearning instinct, born obscurely of her own distress, made her pause outside the door of the room which bore the name * Miss Joyce Allen” —and then knock softly. ‘Come in!” said a surprised voice. Caroline entered. She saw a little figure in the plainest of cotton wrappers rise from a chair by a writing- table standing near the open window. “Oh, I’m so sorry!”’ said Joyce, in confusion —*‘T didn’t know it was so late!’ “I thought perhaps you couldn’t sleep,” said Caroline, uncertainly. “You must excuse my coming in. Have you all you want?” And involuntarily her eyes perceived the girl’s preparations tor the night—the photo- graphs put out beside the bed, one of the chan- cel of a church filled with Easter flowers, the other of a grey-haired man; the worn Testa- ment, and two or three other little pious books; the neatly folded clothes. She seemed to see her own maiden room in her father’s house. “T was writing to a friend—a very great friend” —said Joyce shyly. ‘She was mar- ried last year—but we always write to each other.” “You ought to be in bed,” said Caroline, putting an arm round the thin shoulders. “You look very tired!’ } “Oh, no, I’m not tired. It was all so inter- esting—so beautiful to-night. It’s you that look tired.””. The tone was shy, but the speak er took Caroline’s hand in hers. Something in the voice soothed Caroline wonderfully. She kissed her little cousin affectionately, made her promise to go to bed, and said good-night. ‘We'll have a talk to- morrow.” The girl’s large eyes followed the brilliant figure to the door. “TI wonder if Alec will let me keep her,” thought Carrie as she went to her own room; “and I wonder if she really knows.’ Buc then all thought of Joyce—of anything else in the wide world was swept away by the recollection that she and Alec had quarrelled almost quarrelled—for the first time in their lives, and by the passionate expectation of his return to her. She waited for him in darkness; and when he came, he brought the emotion of recon- ciliation, of murmured words given and re- ceived, of long embraces and tears kissed away. His will was to prevail in the ordering of their new life, as in all else; and for her jealousy of Mrs. Whitton she was much mocked at and soon ashamed. N a drawing-room of a little house in West Square, Buckingham Gate, Mrs. Whitton was sitting up late over her accounts. She was much worried by them, and her eyes showed dark rims of fatigue. It was cer- tainly annoyingly true that she had been get- ting rather deeply into debt. Apparently it was not possible to maintain a remarkable position, once you had achieved it, so cheaply as she had once fondly thought. What with little lunches to Cabinet Ministers, and little frocks for Ascot, or the opera, or week- —e and little journeys to Italy in the spring, « to Paris in the winter, from which one re- turned primed with the latest lite rary or artistic or dramatic information, life was really unreasonably expensive. Mrs. Whitton had a kind of injured feeling about it, like that of a person who has been overcharged. It ought not to cost Aer so much to live, because she returned society so much more for its money than other people. However, society, as represented by dress- makers, milliners, bootmakers, and her house- hold books, did not seem to be of the same opinion; and there were the bills! The tone of the letters accompanying the bills, also, was changing disagreeably, and Madge felt that something would have to be done. Her money, however, was her own. There were no tiresome trustees to interfere. She could always sell out something. But of course there is an end to that process some time. Oh, what it would be to have unlimited money! Like the Wings, for instance! Mrs. Whitton fell back in her chair with closed eyes and bathed a hungry fancy in the golden memories of Eltham House. The perfection of that dinner!—of every detail of food, ser- vice, wine, the gorgeous flowers and fruit, that buffet of historic silver at the end of the room, the lighting, the pictures—everything! Why should the Wings possess so much— and others so little? She supposed Caroline Wing had a housekeeper, and a major-domo, not to speak of the already famous chef, and never troubled herself personally about any thing. She had simply to press a button and the thing was done, so to speak. ‘So many people to lunch or dinner to-day,” ‘a reception to-morrow night,” “‘a concert Fri- day”’’—and she didn’t probably even conde- scend to pay the bills herself! It was all done for her by some magnificent slave of the lamp in the background. Well, of course, the invitations, the match- ing of people, which is the really important 80 business in any social success, couldn’t be done in that way by Caroline Wing or any- body else. But Mrs. Whitton felt sorely that with such opportunities, such backing and such a purse, she could have pitted her- self against any rivals whatever and beaten them. The mistress of Eltham House was certainly making a name and place for her- self in this hostile London. Madge Whitton did not deny it. She simply denied the per- formance any special merit at all. Given Eltham House, Lord Wing’s money, and a very moderate intelligence, the thing was bound to succeed! Up to a certain point— bien entendu! T the same time if the truth were known, there was already in the mind of this successful little “climber,” a certain social jealousy of Caroline Wing, mingled with the envy of her money. There were certain prominent men with whom Madge Whitton had never really felt herself success- ful—Robert Llewellyn and Mr. Washington, in particular, and two or three others, who were among the most coveted guests of the moment in political London. They accepted her invitations, because no one could arrange a small party better, and because in her pleasant rooms, such men found another opportunity for the only recreation which really attracted them, good talk without noise or over-crowding, or bores, with people who shared the same interests, and under- stood the shorthand of each other’s conversa- tion. But Madge had noticed already in the tone of such men towards Caroline Wing, a touch of tenderness, of something intimate, gentle, profound, which she resented as a kind of rebuff to herself, because she had never been able to evoke it. Must one go to all lengths, as Caroline Wing had done, before one became really interesting to the men best worth knowing? very IF course Alec Wing was amusing, and by now a constant frequenter of the house in West Square. She thought with a certain thrill of his physical perfections—his open, handsome face, his clustering hair and gallant bearing. It was true, apparently that he had not resigned his commission in the Guards of his own accord, but had been forced to do so by the action of his brother officers. That showed how strong a feeling there was in some quarters, even among men of the world. No doubt because of John Marsworth’s high reputation—his many friends in the army his exploits in the Boer War, and the rest of it. “That’s all very well, but I couldn’t have lived with John Marsworth for — six weeks!” thought Madge Whitton—‘“ My old man was tiresome enough, but—John Marsworth!"’ She remembered a chance en- counter with him, in the country house of one of her relations years before, when she was only seventeen, and he was still unmarried. She had tried to flirt with him, at first suc- cessfully, and then had been aware of a sud- den flinty change in him—of something con- temptuous before which she shrank. Was it because he had come to know of certain pas- sages between her and another man in the house—an older man married to one of her own cousins—and of the young wife’s distress? Her conscience admitted it might have been so. Well, anyhow, he was a bigot, anda martinet, and any wife, not entirely subservi ent, must have had a bad time with him. So that the charm of Alec Wing for any one who had been condemned to seven years of Marsworth was easily understood. How agreeable he could make himself to the peo- ple he wished to please— ‘‘to me, forinstance!”’ Impossible for such a being to understand that there really did exist a great many sen- sible people determined to send him to Cov- entry! He himself could be so friendly, so easy-going—and always so sorry, appar ently, for people less prosperous than him- self. And she thought of a hint she had dropped —the slightest—of being hard up—and his quick, compassionate look—followed by shy- ness, lest he should say anything indiscreet, anything to wound her feelings. He needn't have been afraid!—‘‘though I’ve never let a man help me out yet,”’ she thought, not with- out pride. But again the recollection of the Wing wealth came stingingly across her. Why, it would cost Alec Wing nothing—just nothing!—to lend a friend a thousand pounds. A signature on a piece of paper!—something never felt—which need never be remembered. And again she closed her eyes and let fancy play. All her bills—the bank overdraft— Cousin Kate’s loan—everything!—swept away and smoothed out. She drew a long, sighing breath. “T should like to know when you're going to bed,” said a gruff voice from the door. ADGE turned to see her middle-aged maid, formerly her nurse—by name Anne Street—bending disapproving eyes on her from the doorway. Street was a power in the West Square household, its real ruler in fact. It was she who did all the practical (Continued on page 82)

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Collar may be worn high or low, In pure Irish EAMORs 6:00 5:04:08 $2.50 Made in white washable Habutat silk. ..85.00 Good quality Crepe de Chine, white and vor eC err Tee Ee CTS 6.76 In white washable Crepe Cashmere.....85.75 1} | Mail orders promptly filled JOHN FORSYTHE & SONS 3 WEST 42ND STREET NEW YORK CITY Noconnection with any other store doing business under the name of FORSYTHE. 4, 2. ; ¥ (nea. u. 8. PAT. oF.) This Stamp eg zig on Cloth and is not Snappy — Serviceable- Le celebrated men’s wear fabric is ‘* Cravenette ” prevents cockling affected by EXPOSITION COATS MADE FROM “5 THE IDEAL FABRICS FOR WOMEN’S TRAVELING—MOTOR and STREET COATS This Label Sewed Presley F Cravercliec Onglish « Mohiucr Dust-proof Proofed, which and spotting, rain on each Coat The leading retailers will show new and snappy models—the latest colorings and patents. Our Trade Mark divides them—Which is Which? Seeing is Believing. 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| of her domestic mentor,

ltham work, who managed the lackadaisical Miss Elwood, ‘Cousin Kate,”’ the lady who played chaperon to Mrs.Whitton and also contributed a solid three hundred a year to the ex- penses; and it was she who kept a sharp eye on the tradesmen and the servants, and one | not less sharp on Madge Whitton herself Madge acknowledged her indispensable, was fond of her, and groaned under her. “Go away, Anne,’ she said crossly, at sight “go away, and go to bed. I’m doing my accounts” Instead of obeying, Anne came into the room and began to pick up some of the litter of books, letters, and newspapers with which it was strewn. ‘There are two new hats come from Mad- ame Thérése,”’ she said severely, after a pause. Her mouth opened and closed on the words like a steel trap. It made a straight slit, almost lipless, in her face, which possessed besides a pair of pale blue eyes, a nondescript nose, and a square chin. She was very stout and seemed to be bursting out of her clothes, which never appeared to have either colour or make. She had a right to Madge’s cast- offs, but as she never wore any of them, Madge could only suppose that she sold them to advantage. If so, her mistress was uneasily aware that some of the money was probably indeed certainly used in paying some of her mistress’s small and constantly forgotten debts. It should be added that she belonged to an obscure dissenting body and entertained a curious scorn, not unmixed with compassion, for the rich and prosperous. Vell, I wanted another hat,” said Mrs. Whitton, with an attempt at dignity. “And I'll thank you, Anne, not to interfere.” ‘*You’ve more than you can wear in a week of Sundays upstairs already. We'd better have paid for some of them first.” Madge bent over her accounts in silence. “And if you go on, sitting up like this, you'll be ill,” pursued the harsh voice ‘ ‘and then there'll be doctors to pay for.” “For goodness sake, go away, Anne!—and let me alone!”’ The maid looked at her quite unmoved. “3s J don’t bring it home to you, no one else will,” she said doggedly. ‘‘You can’t go on like this. Miss Elwood said last night, she wouldn’t lend you another farthing.” “Well, you goose, I can always sell out.” “Yes, so long as there’s anything to sell— which won’t be long. We ought to leave this house—and take up another way of liv- ing, altogether,’ said Anne, coming to sit House (Continued from page 80) down heavily beside her mistress. ‘‘ You’l be in Queer Street—you know you will—if this goes on.” ““How you croak, Anne!’ “No. It’s true,” persisted the other. Mrs. Whitton looked round her drawing- room with a sigh. She was very proud of her little house, its taste, its convenience, its social capabilities. It was identified with her— part of her—all her friends praised it. How odious to have to go and live in a cheaper part of town—or in a flat! So much depends, too, on having a particular gite—with its atmos- phere and associations where people can al- ways find you. ‘“‘And there never was a flat yet that had any individuality,”’ she thought. ““Go to bed, Anne!” she repeated, as she rose with a stretch. ‘And I'll come, too. You may brush my hair for me; it’s coming out abominably. I shall soon have to buy some.” There’s never a blessing on bought hair,” said Anne sententious ly, beginning to put out the lights. ‘‘You’ve got to put up with it. The Lord gave, and the Lord taketh away. All) the same, you've got plenty.” And in the neighbouring bedroom, when Mrs. Whitton unloosed her fair coils, Anne enjoyed one of her few pleasures in brushing them. She did it with a thoroughness which sometimes evoked protests from the patient; and few people watching the process would have guessed at the strength of passionate and yet clear-eyed and disapproving affec- tion with which she regarded the young wom- an under her hands. But Madge knew her- self loved, and to do her justice was not un- grateful. She lay awake, afterwards, thinking of her difficulties and thinking also of a visit which Alec Wing was to pay her on the morrow. He had paid her a good many lately. One could only suppose that Caroline Wing knew and approved! For there could be no doubt that the two sinners were still deeply in love with each other. As far as appearances went—anyway! “But one simply can’t help flirting with him!” thought Madge sleepily. “I don’t believe Elizabeth Washington herself could if he gave her the chance. Suppose I asked his advice about investments. There couldn’t be any harm in getting a few tips. Why, Lord Wing must be made of them! And I daresay I can do something for him. I have done him some good turns already. But if he’s really set his heart on Parliament silly fellow! who could help that I know?” And running over names, she fell asleep. (To be continued in the June issue) Jaffery (Continued from page 72) ing. Her long thick hair had come down and she had hastily tied it in a knot, just as you might tie a knot in a towel, and she had thrown off things like everybody else and only a flimsy cotton, sleeveless bodice, or whatever it’s called, drenched through and sticking to her, cove ered her from her waist. “You had to get like flies round these in- fernal things and wait your time—if you could for the roll, and push and then scramble with ropes and make fast; and at the same time dance out of the way of the slithering hulks that bore down on you with fantastic murderousness. “We had just, with exhausted muscles, made a whole stack fast, and were standing by, panting, haggard eyed, the sweat running down anyhow, twenty of us, Dagoes, Dutch- men, Englishmen, in the dim twilight—just a shaft of pale illumination coming slick down the ladder where the hatch was open,—hang ing on to edges and corners of cargo, when suddenly the ship, caught on top of a wave, vibrated in a sickening shudder, plunged, and then with an impetus of cataclysm wallowed to starboard. Andrews shrieked, ‘Stand clear!’ Most of the men leaped and flung themselves away. But I stumbled and fell. Before I realised the danger of a vast sliding crate, two strong arms were curled round my waist and I was flung aside, to slither and roll down the swaying deck until I was stopped by the bulkhead. When I picked myself up, I saw half the men securing the crate and the other half grovelling around something on the deck. It was Liosha. She lay white and senseless with blood streaming from her head. N a mortal funk I took her up the ladder with the help of another fellow, and car- ried her to her cabin. I never before realised the appalling length of this vessel ‘Thank God nothing worse had happened than a nasty scalp wound. But her escape had been miraculous. She had saved my life; for as I lay on the deck, the crate charging di- rect would have squashed my skull into jelly, and crushed my body against the side of the hold. <A fraction of a second later and it would have been her skull and her body in- stead of mine; but she just managed to roll practically clear until she got caught by the swerving side of the crate. I hope you'll un- derstand what a heroic thing she did. She (To be continued in the faced what seemed to be certain death for me; and it is thanks to Liosha that I’m able to tell you that I’m alive. And she, God bless her, walks about with her head bandaged, among an adoring ship’s company, apd refuses to admit having done anything wonderful.” And, indeed, to confirm Jaffery’s last state- ment, here is a bit of a scrawl from Liosha her complete account of the incident: “We've just had the most awful storm I ever did see. The cargo got loose in the hold and we had to fix it up. I got a cut on the head and had to stay in bed till the storm fin- ished. I must say it gave me an awful head- ache, but there I guess I’m better now.” Well, that seems to be the most exciting thing that happened to them. In the minds of each afterwards, it loomed as the great event in the amazing voyage. A man does not forget having his life saved by a woman, at the risk of her own; and a woman, no matter how heroic in action and how magnanimous in after modesty, does not forget it either. Al- though he had been credited (to his ingenuous delight) by reviewers of The Greater Glory with uncanny knowledge of the complexities of a woman’s nature, | have never met a more dunderheaded blunderer in his dealings with women. He perceived the symptoms of this unforgetfulness on Liosha’s part, but seems to have been absolutely fogged in diagnosis. ‘“*Liosha flourishes,” he writes in one of his last Vesta letters, ‘like a virgin forest of green bay trees. Gosh! She’s splendid. I take back and swallow every presumptuous word I've said about her. And, I suppose, owing to our knockabout sort of intimacy, she has adopted a_ protective, motherly attitude towards me. In her great, spacious, kind way, she gives you the impression that she owns Jaffery Chayne, and knows exactly what is for his good. Women’s ways are wonderful, but weird.” He must have thought himself vastly clever with his alliterative epigram. But he hadn't the faintest idea of the fount of Liosha’s motherliness. “Owing to our knockabout sort of inti- macy!” Oh, the silly ass! June issue)

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A \/ | f yale. Be »* \ 1 - _ yy 2 He B= <_ aed x HE Handel Lamp has the character that makes it especially fitting as a wedding- gift selection. The shades and designs are | distinctive and usual, tricity, gas or oil, un- Made for elec- They can be seen at all dealers’ carrying fine lamps. If no dealer is near you, write us for illustrative suggestions. The lamp here shown is No. 6265. THE HANDEL COMPANY 380 E. Main St., Meriden, Conn.

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Handsome Traveling Coat of Shantung. Price $35. Ohwil lon A « LeTres ESTABLISHED 1723 Outer garments for every occasion in a great variety of materials including Whipcord Vicuna, plainand striped Cumberland Homespun Twill Velours Velours de Laine Waterfall Silk Tussah These garments are shown in our present store 19 West 34th Street New York At the close of the season, about midsummer, we shall remove to our new building, Fifth Avenue at 53rd Street. FUR STORAGE dry cold air Safe insurance. Expert method, moderate charges care, The corner of the porch. When tea is served on a tray brought to the porch, there is an infinite variety of at tractive trays. Of these the large black English jtrays, lacquered on | papier miché, are dig- nified and beautiful ex amples, as are the painted tin trays, such as the old English tav ern trays now adapted to household use, and the old Florentine hand painted wooden trays and their reproductions. For serving after dinner coffee on the |porch, the glass tray lover silk with rims of |E nglish silver, plated on j}white metal, with a handle by which to carry it, is new. An unusual tray is the Georgian oval Sheffield tray with a bottom of llacquered copper | painted in coloured decoration. | In chairs there are ithe familiar types, | which have long since | been accepted for ordi- nary use because of their comfort, such as |those with the pockets at the sides for maga- zines, the well-known |Madeira_ chairs and | those made in the East, and glass for the top. Complete $70.00. | supplemented by a number of new lounging chairs of ample proportions in which cushions play a necessary part in comfort and effect. | Of these, the double chair with extended foot- | rest correspond ing to a chaise longue is an at- | tractive substitute for the swinging couch. For the sleeping porch, when it is desirable to convert it into one for daily use as well, the new willow porch bed arranged to hold a spring and mattress and with an adjustab hood—like those seen on beach chairs—is an }important innovation. For night use, to pre vent draughts, the hood can be used and dur ing the day can be removed, thus converting the bed into an inviting and comfortably up holstered divan. | Quite as important as the furniture itself is the covering for the cushions. Here, neces jsarily, the choice of design and colouring x is regulated by its practicability and resistance | to the weather and to more or less rough wear, |for the open porch should never be made too | orng ate or formal to be enjoyable. These char | acteristics should be reserved for the enclosed porch, where a certain dignity of decoration and furnishings is desirable, especially in the sun-room of the town house. In fabrics suitable for outdoor use, the jute natural coloured linen and awning materials will find the greatest favour. In these, stripe S | which lend a certain smartness as a covering can be found, at reasonable cost, in inch-wide green, blue, red and brown against the nat ural tan colour of the jute. In the broken tripes there are similar colourings and black on the natural linen ground, also in the usual awning cloth stripes, which have been found to be both effective and desirable as water proof cushion coverings. Then there is the gaily coloured chintz of bold design for use | plain coloured fabrics, strong in tone | porch can readily accept any amount of bril May, rors Harper's Basar jliant colouring, especially when the back- House (Continued from page 57) A compact arrangement of four wicker chairs and table with oak top, 45 inches in diameter, and a removable chintz cover Minnet & Co. when the porch is well protected, and the for the 84 other consistent outdoor boudoir. appointments, Silk or linen covered cush- A new effect is seen in the iron table with the adjustable umbrella and chairs with green and white awning cloth covers. Price with four chairs, $70.00. Joseph P. McHugh & Son. ground is neutral. In- deed, we are just be- ginning to understand the beauty of colour as applied to outside dec- oration as it is seen abroad, such as in the introduction of light blue as a colour deco ration for wicker and iron furniture and the almost barbaric use of reds and yellow. The softer tones are, however, well applied in the bedroom porch. Here, if sufficiently protected in its con- struction, the intimate touch of the mistress of the house can be seen in the cushions and a general treat- ment that reflects the charm of the bedroom which it adjoins, and it becomes, with the introduction of bowls of flowers or fish and a veritable ions with corded puffings, those with plaited flouncings and with dainty Convenient about the porch. $20.00. the figured or checked cotton ma-| Continued on page S¢ willow round cushion covered tea-table to move Height 28 inches. Price Joseph P. McHugh & Son. HIN uN ™ SMM AVAAAMARNA The Introduction = # = \ CREME ELCAYA when introduced in 1900, \=3) inaugurated new ideas in ‘=| Beauty Culture. = Its non-greasy nature : and sweet fragrance gained immediate favor and es- tablished a prestige that if / has led to numerous imi- |= tations—in jar, in label | and in name—but never in quality. Imitations in any form ‘“E3| +should be avoided. i Write for reasons. bz, | AF 77 — 1 Tededadutiden 7, bLelié, — Se a’ ‘~ =i In jars and tubes 50c_-} N i Large jars $1.00 EY Nei Trial size miniature 10c. lf 4 {| Yl Send Dealer's Name (=! REI |=) hey | JAMES C. CRANE | i} Sole Agent 108P Fulton i N. : A CORRECT ENGRAVING and FINE STATIONERY The making of Wedding and Social Invitations, Visiting Cards and Stamped Paper is our special work, doneinourownshop. Samples and prices upon request. Write Desk H. LYCETT, Society Stationer 205 N. Charles Street, Baltimore, Md, 7? “ARTBR°NZ Products Equal of cast bronze in workmanship—finish and durability —at one-tenth the prices. Book Rocks Boudoir Lamps Ash Trays Paper Weights Statuary Portables, ete. Especially appropriate for Decorative Use in the home. Distinetive Gifts for all occasions. Unusual Bridge and other Prizes. Prices range from $1.50 up. Sold by the best dealers everywhere. None genuine without this name “ARTBRONZ” KATHODION BRONZE WORKS 525 Fifth Avenue New York Owl Pen and Ink Stand Send for illustrating 200 Art Subjects A city school with country advantages THE SEMPLE SCHOOL FOR GIRLS The School overlooking Central Park 843 acres of open space An excellent boarding and day school for girls. College preparatory and _ finishing courses. Thorough work in all cultural sub- jects—opportunities for social recreation. Mrs. T. DARRINGTON SEMPLE, Principal 241 Central Park West New York City Pe Wa

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ll

eS =

ue A i

Hy For Outdoors and Indoors—for Sport— He for Play—for Shopping—for Dress— | iy Palm Beach is the ideal summer texture. HH 1

| - . . . ° | {|| |||) It’s crisp, semi-lustrous finish makes it dust-proof and sanitary. | 1} . ‘ |’ It’s peculiar weave makes it cool and porous. | | | It washes like linen—and needs no starch. PALM BEACH is a unique texture produced in a beautiful range of shade and pattern. Whether you buy it by the yard or in the made-up garment, be sure it’s the Genuine. Both the name “PALM BEACH” and the design have been trade-marked by us for your protection. LOOK FOR THE LABEL. THE PALM BEACH MILLS Goodall Worsted Company Selling Dept. 229 Fourth Ave. R. K. MULFORD

GEN We in Foca od

y —_ DeBevoise Brassiere

Styles for every figure and occasion fifty cents to ten dollars on sale at all good stores Guaranteed f the BEST in i fit and effect 1915 Style Book free on request

Cuas. R. DEBEVOISE Co. 1270-M Broadway New York City re b-e-voice) be 4 “Decollet Price $2.

ta %, ey, Ate - “Gy Fos a0 Ae as’ Arthur Inherited ““}} A Two Aunts ay Ey along with the old home. He was bossed EN Lt and bullied (for his own good) until life Ya, became burdensome. Oy , Josephus Wagered SQ ig that he could humanize them, (for their own good) and Arthur x & covered the bet. The little Boston suburb became the scene Wav yf of the biggest surprise party ever pulled off in the vicinity of the 2: 6 Hub. Read about it in “The Taming of Aunt Maria,” by ¥ Thomas Addison in the May us S&S MAGAZINE NS Re along with a remarkable array of stories and special articles. S ae LIPPINCOTT’S offers its readers each month just the sort of BS YE thing that the average well-bred American wants to read and ad a to have his family read. It is a magazine that doesn’t have A Tm to be censored before it is put on the library table. as’ Oc = tS = ENTERTAINING but not trivial s “33 CLEAN but not tame aw S FORCEFUL but not coarse <2 TIMELY but not journalistic Pod we as =, At all newsstands 25c a Copy, a ss or send postal to Ue - MCBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY, Publishers eo Sa NEW YORK B Oo oP sie” vast Fit For Your Library e Oe S, Table Png — @°s.~: iy. oe Ete e Ct efit = CA Se al oe Tasch Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

we, Nect wear The Exposition Collar LOOK FOR THIS LABEL Designed by THE HAND EMBROIDERY @ New Yor SOLD BY ALL THE LEADING SHOPS msn hibas:

Collar not wired— can be worn flat

Drawn from Life The New Midsummer Exposition Cdllar Third Adaptation For Summer Wear Beware of Imitators

Page 92

Importers Originators J. DM. Giddinc q & On. 564-566 a0 568 Hifth Avenur.4 ! > 46™ ano 47% STS. Present o a Shy a> Cit’ My VCS for " poring Wec OLNGS Ye COOMONS * rer QNSA//~ P go clumme » (OM Oy °C Soy ashore. hf and C Vey yn or County Ua, (Wg KE fy Owing to the difficulty of European travel this \ —, , ° Fae st. a season, the Gidding Establishments correctly b J B styled “ THE PARIS SHOPS OF AMERICA,” are more than ever the rendezvous of ms h | ae ue rea A—THE MARK OF QUALITY~ Look for this trade mai Woven into the hack of everv™~ The Appearance of WHITTALL RUGS S ts L Theie Durability Proves Economy Those who admire the wed in Oriental Rugs and yet prefer a floor covering of mod- erate cost will find in all the beauty and di rability which makes entals desirable and ic of the fanciful traditions - which make them expensive Made in Worcester.Mass.by M.J.WHITTALL Sold by dealers everywhere Write for our Winstenned book e in iy 6 LING Ge ADDRESS ~~ 162 anal" St. Worcester,Mass. The American black and gold lacquer fern box with a double copper lining in which House (Continued from page 84) water is fed by a tube to the plants. Height 40 inches. Price $100.00, filled $115.00. W. & J. Sloane. An unusual English papier maché lacquer tray. Size 24 by 39 inches. Price $65.00. Also Georgian lacquered copper tray with coloured decoration and Shef- field rim for $75.00. A. J. Crawford Co. terials made with puffings of the same, can be placed with effect upon the wicker divan. The willow bird-cage and stands holding aquariums are also effective adjuncts for this porch, as well as the large goblet shaped glass aquarium with its varicoloured base, which English plited silver, glass-covered tray lined with striped silk. Price $12.00. Green china coffee service with ebony handles, $15.75. Mark Cross Co. appeared last year as the Poiret garden lamp and now has become a gold fish bowl. The tall, funnel-shaped Venetian glass vase, in which glass marbles take the place of pebbles and enhance the soft translucent greenish colouring, is most charming. Gaily painted tin tubs with tall handles filled with long- stemmed flowers are also particularly attrac- tive in this setting. In awnings, the painted stenciled designs in green upon plain cream grounds, lined with solid green, will be found restful to the eye. The stenciled striped materials in which green, yellow and even mulberry appear have the advantage over the woven stripe in the fact that their colouring is permanent For the porch floor, the oval and round rugs have seemingly come into popular use. In these the brai ded woolen rag rug is desir- able, and also the braided reed rug with a strand of black cloth woven in as a border de- sign. The reed rugs may be used on both the enclosed and open porch and can be kept from drying out and cracking by merely sprinkling with water from time to time. A desirable woolen rug is the Bungalore rug made in India. Charming cushion in blue taffeta, measuring 25 inches, trimmed with a velvet bow and silk roses. Price $15.00. Cushion in rose taffeta effectively trimmed with finely plaited ruffles of the same silk and black velvet ribbon, $12.00. At Miss Swift's.

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iE 3] (o) ff — It Je) LATER Fashion Footwear The new J. & J. Slater Shop at Fifth Avenue, and 3 East 37th Street, 415 will be open about May First. Broadway at 25th Street; New York ——3\[¢ 1] (oO) (& ——||— ole (OVC Maes abi WIA 2S vp e lett rs ried Cre rt ee oo, * Don’t ask the lady n door to hook you up U: KOH-I-NOORS and fasten your ext gown yourself. No twisting and writhing and fumbling with elusive hooks or slippery buttons because there's no- | body around to fasten your garment for you. A press of the finger and the Koh-I-Noor is fast- ened, and fastened to hold. It’s a snap job. “Good-bye, old Hook and Eye!” Pat ie Waldiuipung Washing won't rust Koh-I-Noors— wringing doesn't loosen them—ironing can’t crush them. They lie flat and do not show, and their rounded edges cannot cut the thread or tear the filmiest fabric. Made in 13 sizes—a size for every fabric and a strength for every service. At all notion counters, 10c for a card of 12, with valu- able premium coupon attached. Write for our premium catalog. Look for the letters K.I. N. | Fasteners stamped K. I. N. are Koh-I-Noors and contain the Waldespring—essential for Security and easy release. Look for them on ready-to-wear apparel. Waldes & Co., Makers, 137A Fifth Avenue, New York City Harper's Basar, May, 1915 “As in a Looking-Glass” T is almost surprising that our mirrors do not get worn out casting reflections of us. Their polished surfaces speak the unvarnished truth, which is that our figures are not as beautiful as they should be, or as they could be, if they were modeled with Model Brassieres. Here then is a little friendly chirp from the makers of Model Brassieres to those women who desire their figures to comport with the beauty which they would like to have their mirrors reflect. Among the practical features of Model Brassieres are the great variety of desir- able fastenings, extra large arm shields, non-rust hooks and eyes (protected by a flap), and removable rustless boning plus our personal guarantee with every garment. Dine foe Model TRADE MARK rassi¢re If your dealer cannot supply you, write to us direct for our free, illustrated Bras- siere Catalogue, showing more than 60 latest style brassieres Price 50c. to $7,50 Dept. H 200 Fifth Ave. N.Y. City ro ¥ Paris Chicage Brook! Model Byrassitve (To sir “Sato nen Be 8E and sport coats is HE latest and most popular material for lightweight wraps Ye hdlon Looms Waterfall (Registration Applied For) Sheer and soft with a self color satin stripe it makes a beautiful wrap. Illustration above is one of the Smart Waterfall Coats now being shown by leading shops. Waterfall comes by the yard also, and in all the new colors. : Write for name of shop in your town. Sidney Blumenthal & Co. 397 Fourth Avenue New York

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(jy HOUBIGANT ’ EVETTE | Certain perfumes are like jewels. They heighten a woman’s brilliancy. EVETTE HOUBIGANT has a wealth of exotic beauty in it — the warm enchant- ment of southern gardens —an ardent lustre like rubies. It adds a seductive atmosphere of fragrant appeal about every woman’s personality. At dealers and our stores Face Powder Sachet Talcum Sample bottle of this perfume sent on receipt of 20 cents. PARK & TILFORD NEW YORK Sole Agents for United States and Canada. Ai TAA AM So Favorites in : the great Metropolis : of New York , E ATURALLY the question comes, what has made them so? Purity, pre- eminent quality; because, in fact as well as in appearance, they are “temptingly delicious.” PARK & TILFORD Chocolates and Bonbons diel inanld are the candies that all enjoy and always call for by name thereafter. Made for the dainty, the critical, and for you—all of you, everywhere in the U. S.—who love the true good- ness of finest confections. Sold at every place of importance in New York, by our stores and 6000 agents throughout the United States. 4 Booklet of gift-box series mailed if you write us for itnow. Give dealer's name. | PARK & TILFORD NEW YORK ay 3 ¥ Le a 88 My MR err ner m SHRI EN Vay, tors HAN MUN a i Har per Bazar | men lifted the box onto the table, | the dealer verified the amount of gold it con- | description The Gem Dealer (Continued from page 32) “Not so you ‘d notice it,’ ’ Marr responded, “but one of ’em is goin’ to be right now. Which one?” He took the hand mirror offered him ana scrutinized one ear and then the other. “Left one seems longer. Wear it in the right one then, and make em the same length. Got a needle, ol’ man?’ “T have something better,” the gem dealer replied, opening one of the drawers. The young man laid his head on the table. ‘Fire when ready,” he exclaimed, ‘‘and stick the ring in at the same time.” He picked up the mirror to observe the effect of the ornament. The tiny operation seemed to have steadied him. “By Jove— that’s unique! Watch ’em copy it.... How was that for nerve? ‘Remarkable in every way,” the dealer said coldly. ‘‘You are a singularly insensate person.” ““So they all say,’’ retorted Marr. “I chink myself that I’m a pretty healthy specimen. Things that women and men yell and wring their hands over never phase me.” “T can well believe it,’”’ the gem dealer replied. ‘‘Excuse me,” (as the young man put down the mirror and put on his hat) “but you must pay for the ruby before you ca an wear it. “Oh, come,” ““you know me and my people. a check.” “No,” “IT must have money. that one condjtion. leave the ring. “‘T’ll do neither " Marr replied obstinately. “You'll take a check for the stone and be glad to get 1t. How much?” ‘How much do you think such a gem is worth?” the dealer asked. The young man considered a moment. “Don’t know the market value of rubies,” he said presently, “‘but I guess they’re about on a par with diamonds. This one’s a car- buncle anyhow. I'll give you—’ and he named a sufficiently large sum. The dealer laughed outright. “A carbuncle? You mean it is not faceted, that is all. And you do not know whether it is genuine or not. Are you so confident of your judgment that you would buy before being assured by experts of its value?” “T know a pigeon blood ruby when I see it,” Marr retorted. bought some in Burmah at the mines last vear. This stone’s all right,” he went on wagging his head, ‘‘and I’ve offered you a big price for it. I guess you'll take it.” the young man expostulated, I'll send you the jeweler answered with decision. never sell except on Give me the money or “You are mistaken,” replied the gem dealer. ‘I will not. I will take just this for it, Mr. Marr” ... and he named his pric e. Marr snatched his hat from his head and flung it on the floor “What!” he ex- claimed, trembling like horse suddenly pulled to its haunches. “On my_ soul, vou're insane. Do you want everything I have in the world for a little ball of glass!” “IT have named my price,” the jeweler answered coldly. “You are not obliged to pay it = will not,” the other declared, striding to the door. Midway he stopped and re- coiled, as if from some terrifying thing, and fell sobbing on the table. “Take it—take the infernal thing. I am ill. What did I come in here for?’’ he fumbled at his ear, snatched out the ruby, threw it on the floor and rushed from the place. a YORTUNATELY it was growing dark, and few noticed the gesticulating figure, hatless and with a bleeding ear, but the inci- dent was afterwards remembered. Two hours later he reappeared, apparently master of himself. The place was empty, but almost immediately the gem dealer entered. “Well, Mr. Marr... “Wait ... you'll see! Tl give em some- | thing for the first page of their morning papers. I'll make ’em sit up an’ take notice.” The door opened and two men came in carrying a heavy box. They were followed by a policeman and several reporters. The and while tained, the pencils scratched industriously: “Mr. Frederick Marr, the well-known clubman, parts with his fortune to Jasper, the gem dealer. ‘Hard cash’ is exchanged for a spherical ruby of remarkable size and a splen- did colour. Mr. Marr will wear the gem as an earring. Fortunately the young man’s | mother has other millions to dispose of, so the wearer of the ruby—who is credited with all | the tastes and sporting instincts of the last of | the Roman Emperors— need not anticipate permanent residence either in the almshouse | or insane asylum. We predict that odd ear- rings for men will become the rage. The imperturbable Monsieur Jasper refus- ing to exhibit any of his wares to the report- ers, they revenged themselves by an ironical of a cheaply furnished shop adorned by sculptures of doubtful taste. The policeman—at Jasper’s command— cleared the place of all but Mr. Marr, who demanded that the dealer reinsert the jewel in his ear which was now badly swollen ““You are satisfied, I hope,” he complained hoarsely, ‘‘after robbing me and obtaining the best advertisement you ever had.’ “T am perfectly satisfied,’ Jasper replied. The young man drummed on the table irritably. ‘‘I ought to throttle you and take back my money,” he said in a thick voice. The gem dealer, leaning against the wall, surveyed him with an inscrutable expression. “T could do it easily,” Marr continued. “T have a pistol in my pocket. I always carry one.” ‘A bad habit,” replied Jasper. get you into trouble some day.’ “Not me,” retorted Marr. “It’s the other fellow who'll be in trouble. I’m a dead shot.” “Are you?” said the gem dealer in a flat, uninflected voice. “T'll show you,” the young man answered violently, drawing the weapon and firing at the same time. The shot made compara- tively little noise, but the sculptured head with the fingers spread before its face crashed to the floor. “Well aimed,” Jasper said casually, without moving. ‘“‘You have destroyed your own property, however, for the bust and the jewel were sold together.” “Tt will The young man laughed derisively. ‘Let the fellow who sculped it have the pieces . I’m off. . . . Keep out of my way. I’ve got what I wanted, but by —— I’ve paid dear for it.” At that moment the door opened, and a wave of cold air floated in bearing on its crest a figure as delightful as the perfume which immediately permeated the room. The young woman exchanged a friendly smile with the gem dealer, and at sight of the young man her lovely agate-grey eyes sparkled under their black lashes. “Oh, Frederick,” she exclaimed, framing her coral-tinted lips into a childlike | smile, “you are the very man I want to see. Marr lowered his heavy head and stared at her without speaking. She looked as if she had just stepped out of the afelier of a designer of fashions, and had made up her face to suit the conspicuous costume which she wore. Her eyes were elongated like those of Ishtar, the line of her hair was parallel with her brows. Her complexion was of a velvety whiteness. Stiff pleatings of orange tulle on her head were arranged in the form of a but- terfly with antennae a foot in length. Her diaphanous cloak was trimmed with sable, and beneath it shimmered a white satin gown gathered up in front to display orange- coloured stockings and bronze slippers with paste buckles and red heels of inordinate height. From her neck hung a gemmed chain from which dangled a gold purse, cigarette case and vanity box. Over one arm she car- ried a stole of Russian sables which dragged on the floor, and her hands and arms were buried in a huge muff of the same costly fur. Her appearance, bizarre, elegant and auda- cious, advertised the popular actress and dancer. “What’s the matter, observing the young man more closely. “Don’t you like my clothes—or me—any more? And whatever’s the matter with your face? There’s blood on one side of it. How did you hurt yourself?” She shrank back, the smile, though not the colour, fading from her lips. Mr. Marr drew a handkerchief from a pocket and wiped his cheek and ear. ““Had my ear pierced,’ he mumbled, turn- ing his head. “How d’ye like my earring, Florence?” “TI don’t like it at all,” she replied sharply. “Tt makes you look absurd. Doesn't it, Monsieur Jasper? Whatever possessed you, Frederick? 8 ‘Absurd!” he shouted. ‘What in thunder do you suppose you look like in those d—d French rags? You look like a jumpin’ jack— that’s what. Go take ’em off and put on somethin’ that'll keep your legs warm. What d’ye mean by comin’ out in the cold in such a get-up? Haven’t you got any sense? D’ye think a dozen bracelets, a vanity box and a knee-watch are goin’ to keep you from havin’ pne umonia? You're a fool, Florence. ‘And you- what are you?” she cried, quiv- ering with rage. “But you have been drink- ing again—that’s what,” she concluded in a different voice, shrugging her exquisite shoulders. “Maybe you think I bought this ruby for you?” Marr continued jeeringly. “Perhaps you think it would look better in your ear?” ‘I'd never wear it there,”’ she retorted. “I don’t need one earring to keep my balance.” “Oh, you don’t,” he sneered. ‘“‘How would you wear it, then?” She eyed him with open contempt and pulled her skirt aside as she slipped past. Marr, lolling on the table, turned slowly te follow her movements. (Continued on page go) Fred?” she asked,

Page 95

Peres eg W.Y.1.),1,1.7,).),1-¥4

4

7 Seer Ye FV Py aYabate

1

= Ylextlo mothers arms the Bloch = Carriage isthe safest and most = comforiable for baby - It is the scienhificallf correct carriage = for bab with fre proud distinchon = The Standard of Merit FOR MAIDS’ AND NURSES’

of nearly thirty Years leadership And This ls The New = Bloch _ Swingear = Bab Carriage _ House Dresses and Uniforms

‘TeeGate Mlea’s Baked Beans Baked for Men Who Don't Work Outdoors Old-style baked beans, if men like them, may do for manual laborers. They They’re smartly styled — correctly tailored and made of washable, durable

materials. They appeal to Madam— Nurse and Maid. JUVVUTEUEET UU VEEUUEE EES

Made in Black and Grey LAV ARARA AHA AAA L e age on oh es ees ¥ ABRAHAM & STRAUS — JAS. McCREERY & CO. to inside work must foster | 2 : , ' > Sold in Greater sod high poles ro i can digest what office men = FOR MOTHERS CONVENIENCE : New York by ac.” cannot. = WITHOUT DISTURBING BABY B. ALTMAN & CO. R. H. MACY & CO. But the man who ndes

= HE Bloch Carriage is supreme mi H. BATTERMAN & CO. SAKS & CO. - ae ° Z fe: ee ce a Si BEST & CO. FRANKLIN SIMON & CO. his digestion. Underbaked = baby’s health, promote baby’s com- = ci L.M. BLUMSTEIN & CO. STERN BROTHERS = fort, assure baby’s safety. The = |Pa LORD & TAYLOR JOHN WANAMAKER beans are not good for FRED’K LOESER & CO. AND GOOD DEALERS EVERYWHERE Send for Booklet “H” to Made in Black and Grey H AYS & G R E E N Cotton Pongee. High neck design with “chic’’ collar 352 FOURTH AVE. NEW YORK and cufis. $3.00, U.S. A. him, and he knows it. Yet men love Baked Beans. And the super-nutri- tion makes them ideal food. That's one great reason for Van Camp's. They DivtiVvT TTC EwTeS as paveueae are baked for hours, In Swingear enables mother to raise the body of the carriage as an aid = while attending baby and to turn : the carriage entirely around so as to face baby while wheeling. wey | Wititl

INT

See it in all leading furniture and depart ment stores and be sure to write us for your copy of an interesting illustrated booklet showing the many advantages of the Bloch Swingear and telling you why = your baby should have a Bloch Carriage. =

dV Vn Vn VY oa Fed

We will also d you f of ch F- i= | steam ovens, at 245 de- = Boch Go-Cart Company = grees. They come out mel- = Specialists in Baby Carriages = low, mealy, easy to digest.

1140 N. American Street Philadelphia = important: To prevent substitution insist on seeing the Bloch trade-mark on = the carriage you buy. Waist Line or Hips destroy one’s enjoyment. i Reduce Instantly If you have a lovely figure—preserve it. | i . . AKED WITH peg S. 2 crea gy = se a the we s — » J ae ’ ’ York owe their success to Mr, Wilson. Without one moment’s delay, 10, 15 and 20 Cents Per Can sn, Wis <i ee vee Ne as eon ae Without loss of time, pers ndacnan maps oan glean Without dieting or discomfort of any kind, Then you never tasted old- \ G. HEPBURN WILSON, M. B., 568 Fifth Ave., N.Y. y By the use of style Beans even one-half so

delicious. In Van Camp's, no Beans are crisped, none broken. No hulls are apparent. You taste only mealy morsels. Van Camp's have a zestful sauce baked in, a sauce that was never matched. If you think that Baked Beans don’t differ much, you'll find a surprise in Van Camp's. And you will thank us silently a thou- sand times for creating such a CORSETIERE | She Magee Seguro Mot we | aie /~ 4 ff, : } , ; é ~Atve. you may instantly secure beautiful outlines, proper poise, and tH, | if desired a reduction of from two to four inches over originator off the abdomen, seat and hips, and on the inner as well as the outer Incomparable BiNNER CORSET side of the limbs. The waist-line drops, allowing the upper Personal Fittings. by Appointment. portion of the body to assume its proper place. Allis Easy, Natural, Comfortable—All is Scientifically Correct. A beautiful form is not given a garment of reducing qualities, but is molded into greater perfection, while a slender figure in- ra yd)

stantly assumes an exquisite outline. Stimulated circulation ‘ | benefits health, and freedom from drag and strain improves =! wad All) J 4 } facial expression. An absolutely new method. Reduction * not caused by heat or perspiration. No No Restriction ready-baked dish _No c y-baked dish. Binding of Motion Order a few meals now. Not a Not a “Slip-Over”’ “Sweat Bath’’ Buy acan of Van Camp’s Beans

to try. If you do not find them the best you ever ate, your grocer will refund your money. ‘ ” ‘Ask the Woman who Wears One The garments will carry weight, support sagging muscles, and eliminate bumps and bulges. They are endorsed by Physicians and Surgeons wherever known. Made to measure in various lengths, for men and women. Soldonly through the manufacturers, and a few exclusive shops whose names will be provided upon request. Accept no substitute. Write for free interesting booklet, which pictures and describes it.

The First Aid to Beauty 2Y my new patented and secret methods a e Spa Moll Garment B most natural wave can be imparted to the Magic a 0 i, y hair on the head—any size wave as desired.

This method positively improves the growth » ‘ ( mbus, Ohio of hair, and will stand the severest test. The 62 East Broad Street Cole y . — Thomas Harmles. Process has found popu- A few exclusive agencies still open. Leading dressmakers, corsetieres and ladies’ and pape amore the most prominent hair stores men’s tailors write for interesting plan. in the United Stiz.tes. a : . al ns pection invited. } FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC PATENTS GRANTED AND PENDING.

I THOMAS GROSERT, Inventor 16 West 47th Street, New York City | Phone, 1284 Bryant |

(369)

Harper's Bazar. May, 1915 ws

Page 96

wn — i} i} u i Stockings and Socks To Suit All Incomes Only the highest grades will be offered from our new building at 586 Fifth Avenue, at 47th Street. The new shop opens with greatly increased facilities and a largely increased stock. With the added re- bonne | sponsibility of short- . skirted gowns, we have added many especially attractive new spring designs and a variety lis |B) x of new shades in color- at ings to match or ac- b cent this Spring’s | Rae . beautiful fashions. —_ - 316. Pure thread Silk, any color, with triple hand-embroidered clocks in self or contrasting colors, $3.50 410. Black Silk, mbbed tops and woven white or colored stripes around, hand-embroidered clocks Also white with black or colored stripes, $3.00 the pair. A118. Rose pattern, hand-embroid ered pure Silk Hose in any color Many other designs. $2.00 the pair. 257. Finest French Lisle Socks. white with colored stripes, with embroidered clocks, $2.50 the pair. “V ANISE” The new silk hosiery which combines luxury in appearance with a dura- bility which ts guaranteed. Especially long and elastic Silk Stock- ings, made of absolutely pure silk and dyed under a special process with pure aniline dyes which are guaran- teed to be non-poisonous. Purity and quality of materials and wearing quality are absolutely guaranteed. No. 1800 at $1.00 No. 1700 at $1.35 No. 325 at$1.85 No. 313 at $2.50 In white, black and all spring shades. the new Send for booklet showing spring and summer styles for men, IL Ty a” PECK @& PECK EXCLUSIVE HOSIERY 49e Fifth Avenue at 39th Street 588 Fifth‘ Avenue at 48th Street NEW YORK CITY women and children. CSRRCPT Ter LTTE TIT 7 TS ET Ek Line Harper's Bazar, Ma The Gem Dealer (Continued from page 88) “the You “Be careful,” said Jasper at her ear, floor is covered with broken marble. might cut your feet.’ She glanced at the floor, the empty pedestal and then back at Marr. I bet he did it,” she commented. “ Like a bull in a china shop. Oh, Frederick,”’ she called out in a high key. “Come here, hurry!” He lumbered alongside, peering at what she was eagerly indicating—a curious thing with a head like an egg, with two enormous opals stretching obliquely to the ears and representing eyes. On top was perched a large sphinx- moth in champleve enamel, quivering as if it he id just alighted. Marr’s face expressed the utmost disgust. ““Nasty thing,” he remarked. ‘What d’ye see in that to scream about?” “Tt isn’t the head,” she said impatiently, “of course it’s horrid. But look at the pearls!”” And she unwound a coil of the luminous rope from the amorphous neck. “I’ve dreamed of such pearls,”’ she sighed, “and I've seen the finest in New York, but nobody ever saw anything like these.’’ She looped her arm over the man’s shoulder. “Frederick,” she cooed, “give me _ the pearls?” ‘You'd lose them,”’ he replied, ‘‘ the string would break and they would all slip off.’ ‘They are securely strung,” said Jasper, “T will show you that there is no danger of the string breaking.” He lifted the fantastic head by a loop of pearls and hung it on a bronze sconce project- ing from the wall. It dangled there grotesque- ly, revolving at the end of its priceless chain. “Oh, take it down,” the girl exclaimed. “It looks awful.” But Marr was immensely amused. “Fine ides l, I suppose. he affirmed. ‘Strung on wire, MONSIEUR JASPER replaced the bust on its stand, and the girl again gathered up a handful of the pe arls. *Frederick,”’ she pleaded, tome. I'll die if you don’t. You'll have to die, then,” he retorted, ‘for I’ve just given all I’ve got for this ruby.’ “You gave away all your money for a single rul xy to wear in your ¢ ar?’ “do give them “Yes,” he answe red roughly. “ And what is more, I’ m goin’ to keep on wearin’ it. You hear me? he continued with increasing vio lence. ‘This ruby’s mine. No woman’s ever goin’ to have it. No other man would have the nerve.” Yo, indeed,”’ she replied in a low voice, shrinking from him. “No other mz un would want to. Keep it and keep this, too.” She screamed as she tossed one of the rings she was wearing onto the rug at his feet. ‘Go and live with your ruby. T° ll find some one else to buy pearls for me. “If you do,”’ he said thickly, “Vou? Madman! vou,” she laughed in his crimson flitted out. He stood for a moment breathing audibly: then stooping with difficulty, picked up the ring and went out also. “TH kill him.” How I loathe face and The woman returned shortly with a man who was Marr’s complete antithesis—a sleek figure with a supercilious nose and broad- ribboned eye-glasses. He smiled satirically at sight of the fantastic object which still re- mained on the table. “ Devilishly clever,” he drawled. Jasper turned it round so that the man could examine it more carefully. “Decidedly the best thing I’ve long time,” he asserted. ‘‘Even the moth, which at first I did not care for, has signifi- cance. But. . he arched an eyebrow at the dealer who detached the ornament and handed it to him. “As I thought—an inspiration of the jeweler and not the sculptor. Very happily con- ceived, however,” he exclaimed. The girl put her hand impatiently on his arm. ‘‘How can you see anything but the pearls. Put dow n that horrid insect and look at the pearls.” He cast a languid glance at them. “If they were genuine, they would still be impossible,” he remarked. “If they were genuine?”’ she exclaimed, unwinding the massive coils and dropping — into his hand. “T will admit they are the finest imitations I ever saw, he drawled. ‘“‘Oh—bother!” she cried. “I think you are an imitation yourself. Finest I ever saw,” she repeated, mimicking his indolent m: inner. “We will leave it to Monsieur Jasper,” he said more briskly His Startlin INGULAR appointments are sometimes S demanded by the exigencies of politics. A man from the middle West, having rendered some service to his party, was re- warded with a post on an investigating board connected with the navy. Sent with the rest of the committee to inspect one of the seen for a “You need not take them at my valuation or your own,” the gem dealer responded quietly. “How much do you want for them,” the man inquired, prodding the pearls with the point of a pencil. ‘“*What will you give for them? gem dealer. The man eyed him with some amusement. ““You don’t look like a Yank or a Jew,” he remarked facetiously. “‘but I am unaccus- tomed to bargaining. I take what I like at the price asked—if I want it—and there’s an end to it. What do you ask for the pearls?’ He looked askance at the girl as Jasper remained silent. “Florence, what would you give for the pearls?” “T would give everything I possess in the world for them,”’ she answered with extrava- gant emphasis. ‘Everything? ” he queried. ‘Every single thing,”’ she asserted. ‘Then I suppose you must have them.” He turned to the dealer and their heads met over the sphinx-moth which quivered on the grotesque head. Presently the man removed his eye-glasses and stared at Monsieur Jasper. “T never heard such a preposterous demand in my life,” he said heated!ly. ‘I will give you half.” ‘** My price or nothing,”’ was the cold reply. “T do not care whether you buy or not. The man tugged at his short beard and drew in his under lip. The girl had cast aside her furs and was twining the rope of pearls around her slender neck. She gazed at her reflection in the pier-glass and then turned a bewitching face to the man. “Richard,” she murmured, “look at me. Did you ever see me so beautiful?” “Never,” he answered promptly. She flung her arms around his neck, hanging back so that he could see the jewels on her lovely throat. ‘Am I to keep them?” she breathed. “On the condition,” he replied, “you, will dine with me this evening. ; A change passed over her beautiful face. She, too, bit her lip and was silent. “You cannot have the pearls otherwise,” he observed coolly. ‘Then, yes,” she ” asked the said in a whisper. “Why. my dear girl, did you think that you could get the pearls for nothing?” he inquired with brutal emphasis. ‘No, not from you,”’ she retorted bitterly. “Wait—I will coax Frederick into buying them. He is, after all, more generous than you.” ‘You will not,”’ he hissed in her ear. ‘‘The pearls are mine. I have bought them. Whether you take them or not, I have bought them and they are mine.”” His hand gripped her arm. ‘All men are alike,” she said with a sob. “Let me go. I do not want your pearls. I will not take them.’ He released her, and she began to uncoil the rope. ‘But I do want them,” she he site ited, tears falling down her tinted cheeks. ‘‘ And I must have them. I don’t care what they cost. ‘That's better,”’ he answered. ‘Let us go. It is late.” To the dealer he said briefly. “I will settle with you in a few hours.” The gem dealer glanced at the offered card with a smile. “We have met before, Mr. Standish. The young lady may take the pearls with her.” She uttered a cry of joy, thanked him effu- sively, and the two went out together. AS the two sat together in Standish’s lux- urious studio that night, without being an- nounced, Frederick Marr suddenly opened the door and stood defiantly in the entrance. Standish turned instantly. ‘*How did you get in? I left orders that I was not to be disturbed. Sit still, Florence, I will deal with this madman.” But as he rose a pistol flashed, and Standish plunged forward into the table service and lay face downward in a red ruin of flowers, food and wine. The girl started from her chair, caught at the edge of the table, her gauzy draperies sliding from her shoulders. Behind her from a bronze hook hung a Chinese lantern. She heard a crash of breaking glass, and as she turned to see what had happened, a hand lifted her bodily by the necklace of pearls and hung it on the hook. The wire-strung coils tightened instantly and as the woman struggled for a brief moment heavy footsteps padded across the floor... and the door closed slowly. g Discovery new battleships, he assumed an air of great sagacity, stamped on the deck, pulled at the cables, and peered about until he reached an open hatchway. Looking down it, his amazement overcame him, and he blurted out: ‘“Why! the blamed thing’s hollow, ain’t it?’

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SKIN BEAUTIFIER c= AINS more pure Oriental Oils than any D That’s why it cives such Jars, 75¢., $1.00, $1.50. Tube, soc Also Selma’s Russian Fi Powder and Face Lotion, Sold by the} stores. Made and ‘iuaranteed by SELMA J. SOTHERLUND OF RUSSIA, Face and Hair Specialist. (Established 19) 45 West 34th St., New York Free Booklet Care of the Skin’

Special “Ss $20 $25 Indestructikle Oriental Pearl or reconstructed Ruby, Sap- re, Emerald; ick or I umel mounting.

Kindly send remittance or New York references with order Remounting and Remodeling a Specialty Catalog sent out of town upon request VARGA $24B Fifth Avenue, New York

ie Fock “The World’s Best Table Water” Is superior on all occasions. From the famous White Rock Mineral Springs, Waukesha, Wis. Office, 100 Broadway, N.Y.

Wanted For Special Plan | Harper's Bazar has an opening on its subscription sales force for man or woman of sufficient selling experience to conduct special plan in certain territory. Can be made very profitable. Correspondence invited. Address C.C.S., Harper’s Bazar 119 W. 40th St., New York City.

Harper's Bazar, May, 1915

LER, The Made in U.S.A. “Trellis” At All Good Shops HITE veils are very modish. Fashion’s latest decree is, white veils for light costumes—-and white veils are delightfully becoming. The Trellis Veil illustrated is one of the many charming Van _ Raalte creations shown in white by all good shops. In buying veils, it pays to remember that Van Raalte Veils —wash without wearing —stretch without tearing outlast three ordinary veils Write for ‘“‘Miladi’s Veil” —a_ style booklet which tells how to wear and care for veils. E.& Z. VAN RAALTE 100C FIFTH AVENUE : NEW YORK For your protec- tion, this little white ticket 1s on every H yard. Look for it. 5 SS as ao tip tii Lit

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SPECIAL 2057A — Chic negligee or house gown of Dolly Var- den voile; lavender, pink or blue flowers on white. Loose Watteau back, plaits to v«

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Trimmed and satin ri ww R NEGLIGEES AND HOUSE GOWNS | are our original | specialty. Lane Bryant knows your needs} for home and boudoir wear, } and has at all times the largest assortment of A DU MRR ALUN 2057 Tea Gowns, Negligees, Sacques, Matinees and | Pullman Robes tosuitall tastes,figures and ages. | ca hm lor The Bride’s Trousseau—for the Elderly woman—for Maternity Wear—for the Stout Figure, up to 56 bust measure. Prices 1.98 to 5475 Manufacturing everything on the j premises not only insures you low prices and prompt delivery, but exceptional advantages, such as Puplicating to Measure and Changing | Details to meet individual taste. Season book, with photogra phic illustrations, sent out cf tov upon request to Dept. A-N Lane Bryant 25 WEST 38th STREET, NEW YORK | on

j ua (ee RS pat 1h Mi DECORATIVE FURNITURE / —— =) lor cottage, bungalow, Country house—made by a he hand; oak and hick Ww » ory, painted, polish ¥ 7 ed and decorated 1 ity ¥ in the gay peasant ¥ | J colors. Also paint- { ed and decorated ey ie } EF . m% any color to harmo- + y =6nize with any given ——) 4 — a color scheme. ¥ ) gS . Write for literature «F" de = (7-2) seril th arming painted / 50 furniture. = “| Erskine-Danforth Corporation, 2 West 47th St., New York. 4 ATRL Ha itl e Som

* UNCHEON or afternoon tea is an event to be remembered when taken at Repetti’s: dainty surroundings, perfect cooking and service moderate prices, (Ice Cream is a specialty with us. A sample box of the famous Repett re 4 i Caramels will H ner A th

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| Visitors to Nw York Gey always welcome /yride-(ect would be greatly helped in making the arrangements /or *e Wedding, the Wedding Breakfast, the Entertainment 7 the Bridal Party, etc, by consulting our Wedding Booklet No. 4 which will be sent free on request sans Catbinnei ie 39 The Donnybrook Cage, The Academic Settle Harper's Basar, May, 1915 with fittings complete, $7.50 25.00 The Kraft Flower Stand, with plate-glass top, 10.00 4 The Yogo Pine, over 40 years old The Roscomon Wall Cage, with fittings complete. . The Lake-of-the-Woods Chair . 30.00 12.50 10.00 LIGHT AND GRACEFUL FURNITURE OF EASY INFORMALITY, with a lightness that goes with Springs Sunny Days: Decorative yet Durable, MeHUGHWILLOW FURNITURE is always appro- priate indoors and out. We are constantly designing new things for a wide diversity of uses, ¢ these may. be seen at 7he Apular Shop any } nd or our sketch sheets showing about a thousand pieces will be sent upon request JOSEPH-P- MSHUGH &SON dy oy Designers and Actual Makers 9 West 42 nd Street — New York eeneeeednnal 92 The Aconvenient brown wick- er vegetable garden basket, for the woman who is her own gardener, containing a burlap apron, kneeling- pad, markers, grubber and other English tools. Price complete $12.00. At the Garden Gate Way. Garden (Continued from page 50) Intimate oer my A new weeding basket, upon which the amateur gardener may kneel, has a cretonne covered cushion with a wicker frame for bulbs and small implements. Price $6.50. The fairy perched upon a toadstool is an attractive new flower stick. Price $1.50. At the Garden Gate Way. intense sunlight bleaches the cool colours of flowers, and the rich brilliance of others is lost and deadened in shaded places. By a curious optical phenomenon, the planting of blue flowers at the back of borders and beds gives them the appearance of greater depth. The reverse is the case with such striking colour-notes as those furnished by scarlet or by golden yellows. Monk’s-hood, the perennial Larkspur, the blue Hydrangea, blue Campanula and blue Iris will create this distance increasing effect. Finally, one must be careful that the colours of the flowers of an intimate garden placed in juxtaposition to the house shall harmonize with its colour. Thus one would not think of placing scarlets and crimsons and pinks against new red brick walls, although nearly every colour harmonizes with white walls, The small brass pot rake with spade shaped end will be found con- venient in the care of potted plants. Price 75c. At the Garden Gate Way. A wire garden waste- basket for holding gar- den refuse. Can be easily hidden in a shrub or hedge. Price $8.00 At the Garden Gate Way. Joseph P. McHugh & Son. Decorated garden basket, to be stuck in the ground, in blue, yellow or green. Price $5.00. At the Straus Studio Shop. and grey walls are beautiful as backgrounds for white, delicate pink, blues and such pur- ples as the Clematis. Inexhaustible, truly, are the pleasures to be derived from the garden intimate, wherein every effort exerted is productive of results that gladden the heart, quicken the senses and lead us to that closer communion with Nature, inspirer of all that is best within us. Garden tools, strong in construction but light in weight, are now being manufactured especially to meet the requirements of women gardeners. These tools are attractive in de- sign and may be had fitted in the new gar- dening baskets which are to be among this season’s novelties. With such a basket con- veniently at hand, the pursuit of gardening becomes even more of a pleasure and still less of a task.

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corey Mature and | Thinking Women as readers of the Cosmopolitan VERYON Econcedes that Cos- mopolitan holds the young and middle aged women; but in this day, among women in the| larger cities and suburbs, you can take off the age-limit. Grand- mother is about as youthful as granddaughter. The city woman is often of intense emotional life but of narrow, unexciting actual life. She keenly loves tolook upon the romance of life’s gay parade. 3eing non- participant, she must turn to its chronicles. ‘Vhis is the basic magazine- class, possessing money enough and emo- tions enough to make them tellin factors in magazine success. They read nearly all forms of Cosmopolitan fiction. Stories like Amelie Rives’ “Shadow of Flames” appeal strongly to the thoughtful and more mentally emotional. Edna Ferber stories appeal to all as showing the woman who has succeeded in business, and be- cause they strike the universal feminine chord of “dress.” Thousands of these maturer minds will also read Jack Lon- don’s “Little Lady of the Big House.” The Chambers’ serials appeal to them, and Dr. Crane’s ethics; the Ella Wheeler Wil- cox poems will invariably catch the serious minds, as will also all problem fiction. These women, as a generality, are largely interested in features we regard as “men’s.” This includes the Ade Fables, Craig Kennedy’s mystery fiction, and 3ooth Tarkington. This latter is “boy and man” all the way through, but every boy has a mother in especially close bond with her boy’s mind. Cosmopolitan’s present woman-interest will for the future be greatly enhanced and cemented through such features as | the new Chambers’ serial, “The Girl Philippa”; and “Twin Sisters,” the ab- sorbing study in feminine development and psychology by Justin Miles Forman, to be illustrated by James Montgomery Flagg. Also by the powerful set of two- part stories, including “ Rosanne Ozanne,” of both heart and brain interest of the kind to which woman-nature in every class reacts. Bigger than these is the story “The First and the Last,” by the English genius, John Galsworthy, begin- ning in June—the greatest story he ever wrote—a genuine Poe drama. Younger Women The young women of the suburbs and smaller towns are also among Cosmo- politan’s certain friends. They read it to get the zest of New York life. They like the illustrations, the covers, and the theatrical pages with their photographic and brightly written contents. It was the magazine-reading woman who has given popular vogue to most of the leading artists and writers now before the public; men whose work is first published in Cosmopolitan, then put out in book form by leading publishers and advertised to their clientele. The advertising import of all this is ‘“‘meat and drink” for the business man with a keen | psychology for success. The manufacturer of any woman's article should make Cosmopolitan one of his text-books through which to study the greatest feminine following of the magazine world. | Where Women Get the Suffrage of the Purse Strings “T can say without the slightest hesitation that Cosmopolitan is the best pulling maga- zine with women who have not only money to spend, but considerable money to spend —THE BEST PULLING MAGAZINE IN AMERICA!” This opinion of C osmopolitan was re endered by a dealer in a woman's article ranging up to | $3,000 in price. He speaks not from analysis, | but from experience; and you, business men, who must precede experience by thought— analyze thoroughly Cosmopolitan’s woman appeal. Why this phenomenon of interest, drawing over a million circulation a month? Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 Pat’ == ADVANCE An IVY Automobile Corset Side rubber sec- tions running full length of garment. o be worn about 2 inches above waist line, afford- ing long, graceful hip contour. Laced in front and con- taining a_ seven inch front clasp. For Athletic, Dancing, Mater- nity, Surgical, and Automobile wear. Sizes 22-32. MODELS for the GOWNS of-the ria HOUR “IT cuncs” 7 SKILLFULLY DESIGNED, FAULTLESSLY TAILORED and FINISHED— INSURING AN UNBROKEN CONTOUR OF GRACE and BEAUTY. 8445S SA Complete IVY Corset Models also offered By M. B. STEWART Walnut and 13th Sts., PALMER'S CORSET STORE 52 Winter St., TON BULLOCK'’S, Los Angeles THE KING McLEOD CO. NEWPORT, R. I. GARDINER Main and Chippewa Sts., BUFFALO POMIN 893 Market St., SAN FRANCISCO ADRIAN, Park Bldg. WORCESTER, MASS. And the foremost stores in all other cities. PROVING A SOURCE of COMFORTING SUPPORT No Matronly Lines No Back Curves “IT CLINGS” - IVY ave ee CORSET CIENTIFICALLY CONSTRUCTED, $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ a. | “LV SH 1 CORSET Sy ws — A- 1.00 2.00 3.00 3.50 5.00 6.00 7.50 8.50 $10.00 $12.50 $15.00 $20.00 to $50.00 Models fitted by expert corsetiers at all dealers wg ~=CORSET H COMPANY, Mfirs., MOLLIE MAYERS IVY CORSET STORE Correspondence and Mail Orders Invited 392 FIFTH AVENUE at 36th Street, NEW YORK WORCESTER, MASS. “Care of The Nails” (A Little Book You Should Read) “CARE OF THE NAILS” is full of valuable information about manicuring—that very im- portant feature of the modern toilet. It tells how to obtain best results with least annoyance. Everyone who appreciates the precious possession of trim hands and shapely fingers should write for a copy. It is FREE. Include 25c. and we will send you a bottle of Cutex, which removes ragged cuticle and hangnails with- out cutting. Also samples of Cutex Nail White and Cutex Nail Polish Cake. These three of the ten famous Cutex preparations, sold at the better drug and depart- ment stores, will introduce you to the delights of easier and better manicuring methods. Northam Warren 11 West Broadway New York Recent numbers of THE CENTURY have been hard to get on the news-stands soon after publication. something of THE MAY CENTURY SHAW WHO SOWED THE SEED. delightful bit of foreign-flavored fiction about a Turkish harem and about a movement for woman’s emancipation in that country. ME. The second instalment of the anonymous and astonishing auto- biography of a well-known woman novelist carries her into the Pig’s Hair Department of a Chicago stockyard firm as a stenographer, a number of adventures. THE CZAR. about the Czar and his folks. time for a few in on him sharpest tongue. POLAND’S STORY. Judson C. Welliver tells why he thinks that Poland, the tragic queen of the submerged nations, will see her last and | weeks. They say dearest hopes crushed after the War of the Ten Nations is over. THE ADVENTURES OF THE CLOTHES-LINE. writes this parody on detective fiction. opportunity of burlesquing his own original drawings for Sherlock Holmes. DEAR FABLES. says The Boston Evening Transcript, fantastically, whimsi And there are short stories, distinctive verse that is not mere filling for page-ends, and pictures of THE CENTURY standard. Aren’t you a CENTURY kind of person? every time? The Century Co., ; Gentlemen: 353 Fourth Avenue, New York City. Please find enclosed $4, for which send THE CENTURY for one year, beginning with the May number, to The following, for instance, is Demetra Vaka writes in this and there are | | In this instalment of ‘‘Cabbages and Kings,” H.R.H. the | Infanta Eulalia of Spain, who is known as the royal gossip of Europe, tells || | She has been accustomed for years to drop || | she is the most || | democratic roy J person in Europe, with th: quickest sympathies and the || | Herford’s illustrations really do illustrate. Carolyn Wells Frederic Dorr Steele has here the | The frontispiece in color is by Arthur Rackham, who, | “‘draws and paints as James Barrie writes, y, wonderfully.” Why bother to buy Ac Pe rfect Figure May be Yours WatnaP es My motion picture *‘Neptune’s Daughter”’ and my own exhibitions on the stage show what my course of Physical Culture has done for me Become my pupil and it will do as much for you. Devote _ fifteen min- utes daily to my sys- tem in the privacy of your own room and ou can weigh what Ni ature intended. It will help make your figure perfectly »roportioned through- out— full rounded neck, shapely shoulders, arms and legs; a fresh comple xion; good carriage, with erect poise and grace of movement. You Can Improve Your ealt My system stimulates, reorg¢ anizes and re- generates the entire body. It helps transform the food into good, rich blood. It strengthens your heart, lungs, and other organs, conquer- ing all weaknesses and disorders, and genera ting vital force. My latest book, “The Body Beautiful," should be read by every woman, and / will send it to you free. it explodes the fallacy that lack of beauty or health cannot be avoided. In it I explain how every woman can be VIG- OROUS, HEALTHY and ATTRACTIVE, If you are weak, nervous, fat, thin, un- shapely, tired, lacking vitality or in any other respect not at your very best, I can surely be of service to you. MY GUARANTEE. With my free book, “The Body Beautiful,” which is fully il- lustrated with photogre aphs of myself ex- plaining my system, I give full particulars of my Guarantee Trial Plan, whereby you can test the value of my instruction without risk- ing a single penny. Send two-cent stamp for ‘The Body Beautiful” and Trial Plan to-day. ANNETTE KELLERMANN Suite 401 H, 12 W. 31st St., New York This course of Physical Culture is guaranteed to satisfy or money refunded. 93

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Greatest European Beauty Expert and Her Beauty Repertory ‘There is no mystery about maintaining a youthful appearance,” said Madame Helena Rubinstein. “It is a question of knowing HOW and this knowledge is always to be had at the proper source. No one els: can speak with such authority on this fascinating subject as Mme. Rubinstein, whose Maisons de Beauté Valaze in Mayfair, London, and in Rue Saint Honoré, Paris, have for years been the object of pilgrimage for royalty, aristocracy and the famous beauties from all over the world. Che treatments and preparations that made Mme. Rubinstein’s name one to conjure with are now to be had in America, and from her New York establishmeat you can obtain the creams and lotions that are used by Europe’s most critical, discriminating and experi- enced women VALAZE BEAUTIFYING SKINFOOD s noted chiefly for thes: incomparable effects: It stands for skin-health and youthfulness, because it promotes the renewal of skin-cells. It wards off wrinkles, loos: and flaccid tissues, because it stimulates the skin. It makes th: complexion clear and faultless, because it frees the skin from freckles, tan and sallowncss. Obviously, then, Valaze Beautifying Skinfood is not a make- up; it is mot a glorified cold cream. It is a be: iuty preparation of a strictly scientific character, which revitalizes the most seemingly pussé complexion, laying down for it a new foundation in the skin itself so that it is given every inducement to unfold its birth-right sweetness of rose and ivory It comes in jars at $2.25 and $6 Sample pots sufficient for six weeks’ use $1.25. LOTIONS lo use nothing but creams for the face is mere faddishness, and injurious, to The application of lotions to the face has a delightfully refreshing and racing effect which no cream is intended or capable to produce. It is what lew is to the flower, and you would in vain look for a substitute for dew. Give flower of your face the dew it also craves for. Do not always give it ims and stop at that. Valaze Skin-toning Lotion tones and braces the skin. It is antiseptic eansing, cooling and soothing. It gives the skin freshness and a delightful of comfort. It is free from glycerine, a substance which irritates m¢ ion S gee is generally undesirable because it withdraws the skin’s natural visture. 1 bottles at $1.25 and $2.25. ariant of this lotion is Valaze Skin-toning Lotion, Special, for skins that or shrivel from cold or heat It gives the skin that silky softness and humidity which alone indicate the skin's perfect condition. Ir POWDER Madame Rubinstein is the first complexion maa to recognize thata tferent powde r must be used on normal, dry and oilv ¢* on grounds of iuty as well as sound hygien a dry skins her Novena Poudre is espe- illy prepared. For normal and oily skins her Valaze Complexion Powder is xclusively recommended. Both these powders are to be had in all shades and irious quantities at $1, $2.50 and $4.50 per box. SEND FOR THIS BOOKLET A copy of Mme. Rubi instein ; well-known booklet os uty in the Making” m the original French “Comment se Fait la Beaute’ will be forwarded gratis epplics ation enclosing a two-cent stamp for postage, and Baz It deals with the correctic on of complexi mn defects Sy a Mieslod tesiiesars Wk egmtarion au 0 full list and description of Rubinstein’s so justly famous preparations MADAME HELENA RUBINSTEIN No. 15 East Forty-ninth Street LONDON, W.: NEW YORK CITY PARIS: Grafton Street 255 Rue Saint Honoré ° = To insure immediate attention to orders, letters for advice or for appointment, mark envelop PE RSONAL. Note: 4A To Every Mother for Every Child Any mother would be delighted with this grey linen frock which Anne Harmon has cut in a jaunty fashion and has made youthful by embroidered pink roses. The suggestion of a waistcoat in this tan linen dress, from L. P. Hollan- der & Co., delights the little girl. Be- low it the skirt hangs in plaits and above it rises the white batiste guimpe. The stitched tan linen shade hat is banded in white. To clothe the grow- ing girl and boy in simple, though up to date, and becoming costumes ts the aim oy every fastidious moth- er. Here are a few suggestions. Even the tot has her crinoline, for Best & Co. has shown itin a shirred white chiffon dress outlined in pink silk and garlanded in embroidered pink rosebuds. For the small boy, Anne Harmon makes a suit that is “different” of olive green éponge with white linen bands embroidered in green silk. Vad onawincs By AUTH HAMBIDGE A little newer than the wash frocks are the party dresses of taffeta similar to this be- ruffled model in blue taffeta from L. P. Hollander & Co. There is a wide pink moire sash and a shirred white net guimpe, also dear little puffed sleeves. Best & Co. make this “‘comfy,”” jolly, little coat in black and white plaid polo cloth and in the various coloured linens. And to make it more serviceable there are pockets under the belt. The white Panama hat has black velvet band and streamers and vari-coloured fruit trimming. _

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Cook or No Cook, Anybody can Do en Although the Kewpie Cook, "Whose apron hangs before his legs, Is an expert with ham and eggs," he can make a Jell-O dessert as beautifully as if he had never done anything else. Wag the Chief or the Carpenter could do it alone. For doesn't have to be cooked. All that is necessary is a package of Jell-O, a pint of boiling water, and somebody to put them together. And nothing else that is so delicious can be bought for any- thing like the Jell- O price—10 cents. While nearly everything has gone up in price, the cost of the big Jell-O dessert is as low as ever. Put up in seven pure fruit flavors: Raspberry, Strawberry, Lemon, Orange, Cherry, Peach, Chocolate, each 10 cents at grocers’. Rose O'Neill, the famous “‘ Mother of the Kewpies,”” has made some of her greatest Kewpie pictures for the new Jell-O Book. A copy of the book will be sent to you free if you will write and ask usforit. The pictures are full of color. The black and white of the picture above fails entirely to show the exquisite beauty of the Orange Jell-O dessert as it appears in the Kewpie Jell-O Book. THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO., Le Roy, N.Y., and Bridgeburg, Can. The name JELL-O is on every package in big red letters. Be sure you get JELL-O and not something else. TINTTTITTITTITITTITITIN TT iy WieveNvy weer bids ub q i TITTT VIF TTT TT TTTTTTTTTTPTTTT TITTY TITTY TTTT PITT TT TTT me Mail ul mv HUUEvNU NUT YN FOUNTEUEESUYE = UT Di UCT TTTTETT i i i PULL UCL UAL Dainty Bonbonnieres of ex- : clusive design are imported = specially from Paris for Maillard = candies; or you may have your = purchases packed in Fancy 3 Boxes to order and made ready for safe delivery anywhere Bon-bons— | Chocolates Afternoon Tea in the Luncheon Restaurant, three to six FIFTH NEW YORK = AVENUE at 35th STREET NH UVRET ORT ECETERTTANTRTETTRLTTATT PRT TETEG TOE OP ETCH —. me PUY AAPA ENAN PNA AON OONTORAI VUTVUPEREOEN Dea. WU WUC PAAEPEMADIVVDPRTAVEAOGDOROBDDODODUTTETAY ADAM PRASAD EDIHAODREHORHPREDDOpHPPDD ODDOH PIE LULU VTTVPV EEG HOH ~ a arper’s Bazar, May, 19015 Its ‘“‘Loo Are You Going To Buy A Refrigerator On ; ks” Or On Its Reputation ? A REFRIGERATOR is a piece of kitchen equipment which is to be almost constantly used for many years. you probably will never need buy another. the right one, If you buy So it is very important that your decision be governed by a fair knowledge, at least, of how refrigerators are constructed, and by the reputation each bears for satisfactory service. The general appearance is important only as the appearance of any piece of furniture is imports int. sometimes cover It is the refrigerating service you are really paying for. “looks” (Good We all like nice finish. a multitude of refrigerator sins. Few people are ever able to see how refrigerators are constructed. They must believe the manufacturers’ method is to abide by the judgment of big, have made full investigation. Bohn Syphon Refrigerators These best homes of this country hotels and cafes. is used by the Great American Railroads and the Pullman iumble”’ BY INVITATION MEMBER OF by NEW YORK.USAs Re The Bohn Syphon Refrigerator is, among its other qualifications demanding your con- sideration, and without. vitreous porcelain enamel on steel. The Bohn Syphon System maintains a perfect circulation of dry refrigerators. The many-year-famous refrigerators are and by many of the largest and best linum, is gladly given on reque Bohn Syphon Re ‘frigers are made in many sizes. side icing provided if des Sold by dealers in every city and town of country. st. itors Out- ired. almost the statements. So the safest critical buyers who being used in the The Bohn Syphon System Company. There is no on its perfect satisfaction. very beautifully finished within The linings are of genuine air colder than in other insulation used, Flax- the very finest made. Catalog White Enamel Refrigerator Co. 1530 University Ave., ST. PAUL NEW YORK 53 W. 42nd St. Ask Your Dealer or Write us direct for full information regarding Our Novel Recipe Con- test. Many Valuable Prizes to be awarded. Main Office and Factory: CHICAGO 30 E. Jackson Blvd. LOS ANGELES 803 So. Hill Street

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2 gmueryomynaneenR yen Jenene i One of the Lesest Novelties An Evening Slipper with O’Sullivan’s New Louis Heel of Live Rubber attached Owing to the demand for O’Sullivan’s created by Dancers and other professionals who wish to preserve the body from shocks and the nerves from constant vi- bration, the O’Sullivan’s Heels are now made to fit the slender Louis Heel. Z This heel preserves its shape better than the leather top-lift does, because it lasts more than four times as long as leather. It does not run over, and it actually conserves ~ the life of the slipper. Made in black, white and tan. Some shops in New York and elsewhere carry Shoes and Slippers already O’Sullivanized. In inexpensive shoes ask for Carthean Shoes O’Sul- livanized; more expensive, Walk-Over Shoes and Slippers O’Sullivanized. Some smart shops, like O’Connor & Goldberg’s shop in Chicago, for instance, carry many novelties in O’Sullivanized Shoes and Slippers. PHoTo ey sanony COPYRIGHT OY Ima Florence Watlon says: — Dancing on ball- room floors is made much easier by wearing O’Sullivan’s Rubber — Heels. I recommend them.” Joan Sawyer says: “I consider that O' Sul- livan’s Heels are a great aid to dancing.” PHOTO BY WHITE Maurice says:—"I would not run my automobile without tires. I don't walk around without O' Sullivan's Heels. Jolts and jars are bad for me.” d O’Sulli ’s Heels of New LIVE rubber, and avoid 50 cents attached, at all cobblers’. D an aaa Hi ia " Berga’ ‘Basar, May, 1915 a 3 HM Nl a | fashion problem. | burst of imagination could one describe the full skirts from Callot as other than mod- o f Final Resort (Continued from page 37) Truly not in the wildest erate. The fulness, when she heeds the re- quests of her American clients and permits it to creep in, is gained by various subtle methods. Her favourite way of circumvent- ing the question is by the introduction of plaits. Sometimes it is an underskirt of accordion plaiting which hangs straight and seemingly very narrow until the wearer moves; again it is an apron effect of accordion plaiting, and on other skirts clusters of plaits. If she yields to the demand for flounces she cuts them in handkerchief points to retain the long lines she realizes so well are essential to the woman who would be becomingly gowned. Premet in adapting the full skirt has wisely left a panel effect down the centre of the front and of the back, thus not breaking this long line so vital to many women. The fulness he brings to the sides, arranging it in plaits or gathers. When the material supple, like a summer silk, he drops ruffles down the side gores, but the front and the back are left plain as in the skirts of heavier fabrics. In a skirt of chiffon and navy blue cloth he gains an effect of fulness without actually adding very much additional in the way of material. The skirt is of chiffon, which of course may hang full without giving bouf- fant lines, and this he trims with graduated bands of the satin cloth scalloped. These combination chiffon and cloth frocks an interesting feature of the Premet col- lection. One of black satin cloth had a skirt of the cloth from the hips to the hem. At the hip depth it was joined to the gathered peplum of the white chiffon waist with small scallops. Still another had the foundation of black satin cloth. Over this hung a long loose skirt of chiffon bordered by a bead em- broidery in light brown and cherry. Bead embroidery, by the way, is a favourite method of decorating a frock at Premet’s and vies for first place with the large bows which he delights to add. These bows are made from a single width of dress silk. Some lay flat, just below the waist-line in the back, and are guiltless of ends; others are posed right at the curve of the back and are tilted at an angle, one loop standing erect and the other falling below the waist-line. is are Evening cloaks and laces As the Premet collection is under discus- sion, it would not be right to leave it without mentioning the evening cloaks, for they are more striking than at any other house. As you might imagine the Paris couturiers are not deeply interested in either evening frocks or evening cloaks, for the night life of Paris is a joy of the past and of the uncertain future. To-day it non-existent. There are practically no large evening functions, and consequently no new evening costumes are being ordered by the Parisiennes. Premet, however, does show some very bewitching evening wraps and one of the loveliest, and he himself considers it to be the best because he has selected it for the Panama Exposition at San Francisco, is the deep pink brocaded taffeta a sketch of which he sent to HARPER'S 3AZAR with the article he wrote for theJanuary issue. A dressy coat, though not necessarily for the evening, is of black taffeta combined with an old black Chantilly lace shawl. You can’t help but wonder if the couturiers had a fortune in laces stored away in their safety vaults for such quantities of it are used on the frocks this spring, and little or no lace has been made here recently. Premet fairly revels in laces, particularly fancying the black and white Chantilly laces. On a frock of white faille he adds a black Chantilly lace coat. Doucet, also, shows a partiality for laces, often combining two and three different kinds of lace on the same frock. Faille silk and lace is favoured by Beer. Beer, by the way, goes to extremes in his skirts, making them very full and very short. Nor does he hesitate to make them very elaborate, adding ruffles and flounces, ruchings and _shirrings, even panniers when elaboration can be se- cured in no other way. Generally, as shown in the sketch, when he makes a skirt of faille embroidered in silver elaborate by the ad- dition of ruffles of silver lace and ruchings, he tops it with a bodice that is almost severe in its simplicity. is Jet a fad of the moment Callot is another house which has drawn liberally on its supply of lace. Over a scanty foundation of satin, Callot drapes lengths of lace with a the that might be ques- tioned in war time. She knows so well how to achieve a touch of allurement by dropping drapings of the lace from the arms in a non- chalant, graceful fashion. Jenny has origin- ated an idea which I believe you in America could copy with success and that is embroid- ering black lace in jet. The sparkle of jet | makes many frocks akin this spring, for you | find it everywhere. I know not whether the fact that all Europe is in mourning is respon- sible for this demand for ‘glittering black,” or whether its cycle was due, but the fact remains it sparkles everywhere. I do know that the attempt to popularize it in 1913 was a dismal failure. To-day, it glitters and glistens from bands used as trimming, from girdles, from dog collars and earrings, from combs, from parasol handles, from pocket- books and card-cases, from rings, from hand- bags; but why enumerate? It is everywhere— with but one exception, it has not been adopted by the exclusive milliners. Of all the couturiers handling the spark- ling points of black, I think Doucet has suc- ceeded in showing it to the best advantage. Perhaps the reason is that Doucet affects the Russian lines in so many frocks, both for the afternoon and for the evening. Their most admired model is a black net gown hung over a close fitting black satin fourreau and en- hanced by broad bands of jet. A very wide girdle of jet lencs the Russian effect. Many of their lace frocks are also banded in the jet with stripes of dull gold by way of variety. Often the girdles of jet and dull gold are very elaborate, after the manner of Eastern orna- ments, and to the girdle alone is entrusted the fate of ‘‘making”’ the frock, for above it is a very plain little bodice and below it a straight full skirt. Simplicity of tailor-mades If simplicity is a marked feature of the afternoon and evening frocks it is the date line of the tailored suits. Once again the severely tailored costume has returned to its own, probably because it expresses more clearly the serious feelings of the wearer than any other type of costume. The Parisienne is artistic to the pointed toes of her boots, and a jarring note will cause her acute pain. In the midst of women garbed in the sable robes of mourning and suffering men, an elaborate street costume in a brilliant hue could not fail to strike this jarring note. Hence on the street all the women are very plainly and very simply clothed in well-cut tailored suits of a dark colour. Once amongst one’s friends or chez elle, and the coat is cast aside revealing a gay little blouse. At Nice many of the women are wearing blouses of soldat bleu with their midnight and navy blue serge suits. A favourite model is designed on lines similar to the blouse worn by General Joffre. The surprise in the realm of street costumes has been sprung by the Maison Chéruit— and just between ourselves it is the forerunner of a far bigger surprise of a different genre. Just when we had comfortably arranged in our tabulations that the Maison Chéruit was sponsoring the short, jaunty jacket we find at this exclusive salon the redingote. Is it to be different, or because the designer rea- lizes her success in these long, flaring, unlined mode!s which were originally launched by this house? Whatever may be the underly- ing cause, the fact remains that the redingote more jaunty, more flaring and more appealing is flourishing to-day at the Maison Chéruit and has forced the shorter jackets into second place. Next month I shall have later information relating to the princess frock, for I believe that it is more than a passing fancy intro- duced to give variety to the season’s modes. Paquin has a most interesting version in navy blue serge with an irregular outline of the skirt accentuated by braid, accordion plaited. And in one of the street frocks se- lected for the Exposition at San Francisco, she has given the princess lines both in the front and in the back, breaking them at the side by a girdle of black and white checked braid. Individuality in hats At the Maison Lewis the other day, I had the pleasure of seeing the duchesse ‘de Gra- mont build a hat. She has very decided ideas of her own, this fascinating little woman, and she knows how to convey them intelli- gently. As I watched her direct M. Lewis to tilt the hat at a becoming angle and arrange the roses with a certain primness, I couldn't help but wonder how many of your well- dressed women could and would take the time and the trouble to make a hat as un- mistakably a part of themselves. Yet this is the secret of the French woman’s success in dressing—her clothes are a part of her. Even her veil, the duchesse selected with deliberation and thought, finally choosing one of a vapoury brown net with velvet circles. And she was not satisfied until it had been hung and rehung so that it formed a soft, pretty frame for her animated face. Now that the veils cost quite as much as the hats, it behooves us to give to them some thought rather than to pick them up at random and use them only as protection against the straying locks of hair which the wind may coax out from beneath the hat. A really exquisite veil at Lewis’ was of silky cream lace net scattered over with discs the size of a nickel. In the centre of each disc was a bit of drawn-work such as you might see in very fine linen. It was so soft and fine and deli- cate that the entire veil might have been drawn through a ring. None of their new veils had the straggling vine pattern running through them, although these designs are still being exploited in the shops. But more of these trivialities, which make of the Parisienne the wonder she is, in another article.

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DAINTY LINGERIE The Lingerie of McGibbon & Co., is of the same reliable character as its famous Linens which have been used by the country’s most prudent housekeepers for nearly half acentury. The garments illustrated are excellent value. No. 1562—An exceptionally attractive night gown of soft and sheer batiste, empire style. V neck, batiste embroidery bodice; Val lace edge; Sizes 14, 15, 16. $3.75 No. 1563—A charming garment of fine bastiste with kimono sleeves, having seams beaded and trimmed with Val lace; Sizes 14, 15, 16. - - $2.75 No. 1564—A dainty cap, Castle style, made of figured net and trimmed with pretty bows a good quality in delicate shades. - - No. 1565—A pretty gown of soft sale short waist, finished with dainty embroidery and Val edge; Sizes 14, 15, 16 - - - - $1.50 No. 1566—A practical skirt of good quality muslin, with flounce of embroidery and under ruffle joined with a beading; Sizes 36, 38, 40. . - $1.50 No. 1567—A beautiful skirt of fine nainsook with flounce of lace and embroidery combined; very desirable for use with summer dresses; Sizes 36, 38, 40. - . . . . - $2.75 FINE HOUSEHOLD LINENS We invite all who are interested in reliable housekeeping linens to visit our store, where may be seen the choicest productions of the world’s leading weavers. These beautiful goods are offered at surprisingly moderate prices, our rela- tions with foreign makers enabling us to enjoy advantages not accorded to all importers. Illustrated Booklet sent on request McGibbon & Co. Pau Mu Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 3 West 37th St. New York AE AN MENU RE A r : ee By Hanna Rion (Mrs. Frank Ver Beck) Author of “Let's Make a Flower Garden,” ‘The Smiling Road,” “The Garden in the Wilderness,” etc. N this message to mothers by an American mother, Mrs. Ver Beck presents with authority and deep human interest the conclusive evidence of a personal investigation of the Freiburg method of painless childbirth. This method, popularly known as “Twilight Sleep,” is now being successfully used in Russia, France, Hungary, Germany, Finland, Japan, Argentine, England, Scotland, and Ireland, both in maternity hospitals and in private practice. N addition to these investigations TN preparation for writing this Mrs. Ver Beck has translated book the author has spent six many thousands of words of foreign months of study and investigation medical reports and has left no stone including three months at Freiburg unturned to investigate every objec- Maternity Hospital, in close obser- tion to the method which came to vation of Dr. Gauss’ method. In her ears. The British doctors have the Freiburg Frauenklinik over proved by thousands of successful 5,000 mothers have had children cases that the method is entirely painlessly in ‘‘ Twilight Sleep.” practical in private practice. At All Booksellers’ 12 mo. Illustrated. $1.50 net A Vigorous and Healthy Young Amer- ican, Born at Freiburg, in “ Twilight Sleep” Send for Spring Catalogue ; T : T T itt McBride, Nast & Co., 31 Union Square North, New York City ee ce a ee eae LL

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For petticoats, costumes, blouses, try Goetz All Silk Satin by the yard, with the name woven in white inthe selvage. It means extra service and beauty. Her Intimate Luxuries Revealed One of the newest models of the | Modart corsets has a comfort-giving fea- - ture in the insert, an elastic piece, at { Alternating bands " of satin and lace either side. } | \ make up this new / N \ brassiére from the 7 Model Brassiére Co., which tops a billowy Bonwit Tel- ler & Co. skirt with fitted belt. This bewilderingly lovely combination, at Bonwit Tel- ler & Co., is of flesh-col- oured crépe de Chine like the slumber robe and is beauti- fied with coloured embroi- dery and Valenciennes lace. “ines ER coat, held up to the eyes of the crowd, must carry distinction in its lining. Where to find unrivaled beauty com- bined with the sterling qualities of thorough excellence would be a problem were it not for | These, in the truest colors, dyed in the yarn—never in the piece—make linings of rare elegance. Even our “nighties” are raised in the front to display the allurement of the flowered mules. Bonwit Teller & Co. has them fashioned from 4 crépe de Chine encrusted with lace and em- Insist that your tailor or modiste give | broidery. you Goetz* linings in your outer garments. Or, when buying them ready-made, look for the Goetz label sewn into the lining. Your pride and satisfaction in your coat will be vastly increased if you do. : GOETZ SILK MFC. co. | \ 4 e®ecceco 4 a Madison Ave. and 34th St., New Yor | i The benefits of a cleverly cut, | 7 The removal of the lacing from 4 well-shaped brassiére and the *** Gets” the back of a Modart corset makes | _™ beauty of a corset cover are com- possible the use of light back \ \ bined in this crépe de Chine and boning, thus relieving the spine NY lace creation from the Model from all pressure. Brassiére Co.

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te KING ALBERTS BGDK } ! For the Belgian Fund Your contribution for the relief of those who have suffered in Brave Belgium could not be made more appropriately than by subscrib- KING ALBERT’S BOOK A tribute to the Belgian King and people from representative men and women throughout the world. All publishing profits from the sale of the book will go to the Belgian Fund. $1.50 in cloth $5.00 in full leather HEARST’S INTERNATIONAL LIBRARY CO, NEW YORK 50st 59th nt Neriyork In times of style uncer- tainty, the MOOD label on your Frock sGown or Wrap, assures not only CORRECT style, but also originality and exclusiveness. The MOOD Corset em- bodies inimitable style and comfort. New Gowns from 0 The Original Mending and Remodeling Shop A bit of lace—an added frill, and the last summer’s frock is transformed into the most modern of costumes. Evening and afternoon gowns and wraps and tailored suits are remodeled in my mend- ing shop at moderate prices. Telephone 7189 Madison Square and ask for Py wiser Let my messenger call for your package and I will submit an estimate. Mail orders given prompt attention The Mending Shop MISS H. REDDING COUGHLIN 20 West 31st Street, NEW YORK By Coningsby Dawson The Unknown Country HEN men’s bodies go to sleep, their sculs cross the border to the Unknown Country, and recover all they have lost, and gain all they have hoped for that is best.” An exquisite story of the rare love of a brother and sister. 50 cents net Hearst’s International Library Co. New York Just Issued The House of the Misty Star By Frances Little (Fannie Caldwell Macaulay), author of ‘“The Lady of the Decoration,”’ ‘“The Lady and Sada San,”’ etc. } mt THE HOUSE THE The new novel is a combined love and mystery story, told with the rare humor of the author, and set in fragrant, beautiful Japan; not the Japan of the semi-occidentalized Tokio and other large cities, but the Japan of ancient little Hijiyama—Hijiyama, home of crumbling castles and lotus-filled moats, swung in the cleft of a mountain overlooking the magical Inland Sea. Ursula Priscilla Jenkins, seeking escape from the monotony of a drab life in a small American town, fled to Japan. For thirty years she toiled in Hijiyama as teacher and missionary, and her life had settled down into an ever-deepening groove. From her house on the hill, which Jap- anese sailors called ‘‘ The House of the Misty Star,”’ because of the light that always burned in the old bronze lantern be fore he r door, the scenery was unspeakably beautiful. But middle-aged Miss Je »nkins longed for the touch of living romance, the pulse of deep emotions, the surge of bigger things than tracts and English compositions. And then they come, and with their coming the story begins: they come with Zura, passionate child of East and West; with Page Hana- ford, who turns white whenever he hears the word “robbery”; with Kobu, the great Japanese detective; with Kishimoto San, fierce per- sonification of ancient Japan; and with others, including Miss “ Jay- gray,’’ a fragile white-haired little old maid from America who cannot say things straight with her tongue but who can build a hospital and redeem a city. Eight full-page illustrations and a jacket in color by Arthur E. Becher. Price $1.25 net, postage ro cents For sale by your bookseller or by The Century Co. 353 Fourth Avenue (at 26th Street) New York City mint i! You, too, can look younger Six to ten minutes a day of pleasant exercise for the face—in your own room— bring a quick and marvel- ously youthful expression. Susanna Cocroft’s Physi- cal Culture for the Face is as effective as her exer- cises for the body have proven to be in more than 70,000 cases. Course in- cludes care of hair, eyes, hands and feet, and re- lieves such age-adding blemishes as pouches un- der eyes, wrinkles; flabby, thin neck; double chin, crow’s feet, tired eyes, sagging facial muscles, pimples; thin, dry or oily hair; tender, inflamed feet; rough, red hands, and other beauty-destroy- ing ailments. Write for FREE booklet today Learn what prompt and gratifying re- sults you can secure, and how you can look as young and happy as you should. Grace-Mildred Cwlture Course 624 S. Michigan Ave., Dept. 4 CHICAGO dai Xt Summer Dress and Modern Dancing combine to make necessary the removal of objectionable — hair. DEPILATORY POWDER has been used by women of refine- ment for generations for the removal of objectionable hair. It acts gently and effectively. It is harmless to the most delicate skin. It is easily applied. ee for Generous Sample id us 10 cent for generous sar e an ¥ our special offer. Sold by Dri and Department Stores everywhe 50 cents. Hall & Ruckel (Makers of Sozodont since 1846) 229 Washington St., New York Harper's Bazar, May, IQOIS

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a ot ore - 1 ro EE) F

BURGESSER MODELS for Sport and Outdoor wear are now on sale at leading dealers throughout America. If your local dealer has not the hats that you want, write us and we will refer you to the nearest merchant carrying them A.D. Burgesser & Co. I and 3 West 37th Street ( Wholesale only) OL

= Z = ° . a - Bring up Your Boy in: “ Alheneeds” = = : eneeds : = He’ll be the better man for it! é) = = This dainty, roomy, service- P)..., Ask = = able suit of underwear will, yas \ Your = = k iL po er = = keep the boy cool, clean and y Ryko 7 ae Dealer =z = comfortable, and by protect- \\% eo * &'*.. = = ing his health and increasing “Sy. ~~ ‘ = = his happiness will lessen ted = = your cares. { i = = \ Fe \ = _“Alh ds” PX | eneeds” | / <\_ = vA \ 1 = = Goes on in a jiffy, saves time and trouble; 4 j = = supports little trousers and garters from ( | t d = = the shoulders; is strongly made of white / / { / = = crossbarred nainsook; launders quickly; aor H 4 = = is adjustable; has all seams reenforced VF i} / = = against strains; is so much like daddy’s Ad a a a | = = as to fill the wearer with manly pride 4 iY = = in personal cleanliness and neatness. Your \ = = dealer can supply you, or we wiil send by \ = = mail prepaid on receipt of 50 cents. = = Complete satisfaction = = guaranteed. Sizes 2 to = = 9. Ask your dealer for = = Sprague’s Alheneeds. = = Patented and made onlyby } = : FRED’K H. SPRAGUE CO. = = 113 East Main Street Orange, Mass. = $ “*aac NS Harper's Bazar, May, rors

No. No. No. No. No. No. No.

Convertible Collar. Worn High or Low. 325. Crepe de Chine. 251. China Silk. . Spalding Athletic Collar. 760. Cheviot. 759. Plain Linen. 326. China Silk. . Detachable Collar. 758. Plaited Linen. 757. Plain Linen. Sizes: 34 to 42 inches. | | | Larger sizes made specially on order. ] $7.50 $6.50 $3.00 $3.75 $8.00 $2.50 $2.50

BETWEEN FORTY-THIRD AND FORTY-FOURTH STREETS, NEW Too

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ee ee

Mount Vernon, Sept. 24, 1914 Dear Mr Lewis’ Since our talk about cameras, I have developed an- other pack of films--result, 100 per cent. good, as you will see by the 12 pictures enclosed.

As you know, I have been taking pictures for 30 years and have owned all kinds of cameras, but my little PREMOETTE, JR., for which I paid $5.00, and which I can slip into my pocket, has LICKED THE CAMERA PROBLEM FOR ME. Note the clearness of detail--that means a good lense, note the perfect composition of each picture--that's due to the bully finder.

I nave already had 3 enlargements made from these negatives--I wouldn't take $100. apiece for them--yet these 12 pictures cost only 40 cents for the film pack. Yours truly, Mr. Russell A. Lewis Harper's Bagaar New York City

<< —— oe z Be . - e

You also will like a PREMOETTE JUNIOR A dainty, attractive little camera, so light and compact that it may be carried in a hand-bag, so simple to use that anybody can make good pictures with one, without previous experience. Price, $5.00. Makes 2'4 x 31, pictures. Illustrations above are slightly reduced. Other Premos from $1.50 up to $150.00. Premo catalogue at all dealers’, or will be gladly mailed direct upon request. ROCHESTER OPTICAL DIVISION, EAsTMAN Kopak Co., ROCHESTER, N. Y.

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Keep a | KODAK BABY BOOK. HE first journey downstairs for exhibition to that secondary consideration—father. The toddling nursery days! That all important epoch when ¢fe baby first trudges off to school. In all ‘these great events are limitless opportunities for the Kodak. And with the school days come pictures dy, as well as pictures of, the children. Pictures they take of each other, free from constraint or conscious posing. Spontaneous pictures that reflect simplicity and weave into the Kodak Book the touch of naturalness. It is such pictures as these that add the delightful side-lights to the more formal studio Pic- tures that must be made of little John and Mary. Just as they must have ‘‘dress up clothes” for Sunday School and parties, so, too, you will want them in ‘“‘dress up pictures.’’ But you love them as much in their soiled pinafores as in their party best. And, too, you will love the Kodak pictures that hold the charm of homeyness. EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY, Ae etch eat Home withthe Kodak ROCHESTER, N. Y., The Kodak City. The Schweinler Press

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iH : ‘= r E i t at reniatall ~ fs é € = ace Se One of the Latest Novelties An Evening Slipper with O’Sullivan’s New Louis Heel of Live Rubber attached | Owing to the demand for O’Sullivan’s created by Dancers and other professionals who oid to preserve the body from shocks and the nerves from constant vi- bration, the O’Sullivan’s Heels are now made to fit the slender Louis Heel. This heel preserves its shape better than the leather top-lift does, because it lasts more than four times as long as leather. It does not run over, and it actually conserves the life of the slipper. Made in black, white and tan. Some shops in New York and elsewhere carry Shoes and Slippers already O'Sullivanized. In inexpensive shoes ask for Carthean Shoes O’Sul- livanized; more expensive, Walk-Over Shoes and Slippers O’Sullivanized. Some smart shops, like O'Connor & Goldberg’s shop in Chicago, for instance, carry many novelties in O’Sullivanized Shoes and Slippers. Florence Watlon says: —* Dancing on ball. room floors is made much easier by wearing O’Sullivan’s Rubber Heels. I recommend them.” Joan Sawyer says: “I consider that O' Sul- lioan’s Heels are a great aid to dancing.” PHOTO SY wHITE Maurice says:—‘I would not run my automobile without tires. I don't walk around without O' Sullivan's Heels. Jolts and jars are bad for me.” Demand O’Sullivan’s Heels of New LIVE rubber, and avoid disappointment. 50 cents attached, at all cobblers’. a OCA ea The A A a | | Harper's Bazar, May, 1915 o f The Court Final Resort (Continued from page 37) fashion problem. Truly not in the wildest | burst of imagination could one describe the full skirts from Callot as other than mod- erate. The fulness, when she heeds the re- quests of her American clients and permits it to creep in, is gained by various subtle methods. Her favourite way of circumvent- ing the question is by the introduction of plaits. Sometimes it is an underskirt of accordion plaiting which hangs straight and seemingly very narrow until the wearer moves; again it is an apron effect of accordion plaiting, and on other skirts clusters of plaits. If she yields to the demand for flounces she cuts them in handkerchief points to retain the long lines she realizes so well are essential to the woman who would be becomingly gowned. Premet in adapting the full skirt has wisely left a panel effect down the centre of the front and of the back, thus not breaking this long line so vital to many women. The fulness he brings to the sides, arranging it in plaits or gathers. When the material is supple, like a summer silk, he drops ruffles down the side gores, but the front and the back are left plain as in the skirts of heavier fabrics. In a skirt of chiffon and navy blue cloth he gains an effect of fulness without actually adding very much additional in the way of material. The skirt is of chiffon, which of course may hang full without giving bouf- fant lines, and this he trims with graduated bands of the satin cloth scalloped. These combination chiffon and cloth frocks are an interesting feature of the Premet col lection. One of black satin cloth had a skirt of the cloth from the hips to the hem. At the hip depth it was joined to the gathered peplum of the white chiffon waist with small scallops. Still another had the foundation of black satin cloth. Over this hunga long loose skirt of chiffon bordered by a bead em- broidery in light brown and cherry. Bead embroidery, by the way, is a favourite method of decorating a frock at Premet’s and vies for first place with the large bows which he delights to add. These bows are made from a single width of dress silk. Some lay flat, just below the waist-line in the back, and are guiltless of ends; others are posed right at the curve of the back and are tilted at an angle, one loop standing erect and the other falling below the waist-line. Evening cloaks and laces As the Premet collection is under discus- sion, it would not be right to leave it without mentioning the evening cloaks, for they are more striking than at any other house. As you might imagine the Paris couturiers are not deeply interested in either evening frocks or evening cloaks, for the night life of Paris is a joy of the past and of the uncertain future. To-day it is non-existent. There are practically no large evening functions, and consequently no new evening costumes are being ordered by the Parisiennes. Premet, however, does show some very bewitching evening wraps and one of the loveliest, and he himself considers it to be the best because he has selected it for the Panama Exposition at San Francisco, is the deep pink brocaded taffeta a sketch of which he sent to HARPER'S Bazar with the article he wrote for theJanuary issue. dressy coat, though not necessarily for the evening, is of black taffeta combined with an old black Chantilly lace shawl. You can’t help but wonder if the couturiers had a fortune in laces stored away in their safety vaults for such quantities of it are used on the frocks this spring, and little or no lace has been made here recently. Premet fairly revels in laces, particuls urly fancying the black and white Chantilly laces. On a frock of white faille he adds a black Chantilly lace coat. Doucet, also, shows a partiality for laces, often combining two and three different kinds of lace on the same frock. Faille silk and lace is favoured by Beer. Beer, by the way, goes to extremes in his skirts, making them very full and very short. Nor does he hesitate to make them very elaborate, adding ruffles and flounces, ruchings and _shirrings, even panniers when elaboration can be se- cured in no other way. Generally, as shown in the sketch, when he makes a skirt of faille embroidered in silver elaborate by the ad- dition of ruffles of silver lace and ruchings, he tops it with a bodice that is almost severe in its simplicity. Jet a fad of the moment Callot is another house which has drawn liberally on its supply of lace. Over a scanty foundation of satin, Callot drapes lengths of lace with a prodigality that might be ques- tioned in war time. She knows so well how to achieve a touch of allurement by dropping drapings of the lace from the arms in a non- chalant, graceful fashion. Jenny has origin- ated an idea which I believe you in America could copy with success and that is embroid- ering black lace in jet. The sparkle of jet makes many frocks akin this spring, for you find it everywhere. I know not whether the fact that all Europe is in mourning is respon- sible for this demand for “glittering black,’’ or whether its cycle was due, but the fact remains it sparkles everywhere. I do know that the attempt to popularize it in 1913 was a dismal failure. To-day, it glitte rs and glistens from bands used as trimming, from girdles, from dog collars and earrings, from combs, from parasol handles, from pocket- books and card-cases, from rings, from hand- bags; but why enumerate? Itis everywhere— with but one exception, it has not been adopted by the exclusive milliners. Of all the couturiers handling the spark- ling points of black, I think Doucet has suc- ceeded in showing it to the best advantage, Perhaps the reason is that Doucet affects the Russian lines in so many frocks, both for the afternoon and for the evening. Their most admired model is a black net gown hung over a close fitting black satin fourreau and en- hanced by broad bands of jet. A very wide girdle of jet lends the Russian effect. Many of their lace frocks are also banded in the jet with stripes of dull gold by way of variety, Often the girdles of jet and dull gold are very elaborate, after the manner of Eastern orna- ments, and to the girdle alone is entrusted the fate of *‘making”’ the frock, for above it is a very plain little bodice and below it a straight full skirt. Simplicity of tailor-mades If simplicity is a marked feature of the afternoon and evening frocks it is the date line of the tailored suits. Once again the severely tailored costume has returned to its own, probably because it expresses more clearly the serious feelings of the wearer than any other type of costume. The Parisienne is artistic to the pointed toes of ber boots, and a jarring note will cause her acute pain. In the midst of women garbed in the sable robes of mourning and suffering men, an elaborate street costume in a brilliant hue could not fail to strike this jarring note. Hence on the street all the women are very plainly and very simply clothed in well-cut tailored suits of a dark colour. Once amongst one’s friends or chez elle, and the coat is cast aside revealing a gay little blouse. At Nice many of the women are wearing b!ouses of soldat bleu with their midnight and navy blue serge suits. A favourite model is designed on lines similar to the blouse worn by General Joffre. The surprise in the realm of street costumes has been sprung by the Maison Chéruit— and just between ourselves it is the forerunner of a far bigger surprise of a different genre. Just when we had comfortably arranged in our tabulations that the Maison Chéruit was sponsoring the short, jaunty jacket we find at this exclusive salon the redingote. Is it to be different, or because the designer rea- lizes her success in these long, flaring, unlined models which were originally launched by this house? Whatever may be the underly- ing cause, the fact remains that the redingote more jaunty, more flaring and more appealing is flourishing to-day at the Maison Chéruit and has forced the shorter jackets into second place. Next month I sha!l have later information relating to the princess frock, for I believe that it is more than a passing fancy intro- duced to give variety to the season’s modes. Paquin has a most interesting version in navy blue serge with an irregular outline of the skirt accentuated by braid, accordion plaited. And in one of the street frocks se- lected for the Exposition at San Francisco, she has given the princess lines both in the front and in the back, breaking them at the side by a girdle of black and white checked braid. Individuality in hats At the Maison Lewis the other day, I had the pleasure of seeing the duchesse ‘de Gra- mont build a hat. She has very decided ideas of her own, this fascinating little woman, and she knows how to convey them intelli- gently. As I watched her direct M. Lewis to tilt the hat at a becoming angle and arrange the roses with a certain primness, I couldn't help but wonder how many of your well- dressed women could and would take the time and the trouble to make a hat as un- mistakably a part of themselves. Yet this is the secret of the French woman’s success in dressing—her clothes are a part of her. Even her veil, the duchesse selected with deliberation and thought, finally choosing one of a vapoury brown net with velvet circles. And she was not satisfied until it had been hung and rehung so that it formed a soft, pretty frame for her animated face. Now that the veils cost quite as much as the hats, it behooves us to give to them some thought rather than to pick them up at random and use them only as protection against the straying locks of hair which the wind may coax out from beneath the hat. A really exquisite veil at Lewis’ was of silky cream lace net scattered over with discs the size of a nickel. In the centre of each disc was a bit of drawn-work such as you might see in very fine linen. It was so soft and fine and deli- cate that the entire veil might have been drawn through a ring. None of their new veils had the straggling vine pattern running through them, although these designs are sti being exploited in the shops. But more of these trivialities, which make of the Parisienne the wonder she is, in another article.

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DAINTY LINGERIE The Lingerie of McGibbon & Co., is of the same reliable character as its famous Linens which have been used by the country’s most prudent housekeepers for nearly half acentury. The garments illustrated are excellent value. No. 1562—An exceptionally attractive night gown of soft and sheer batiste, empire style. V neck, batiste embroidery bodice; Val lace edge; Sizes 14, 15, 16. $3.75 No. 1563—A charming garment of fine bastiste with kimono sleeves, having seams beaded and trimmed with Val lace; Sizes 14, 15, 16. - - $2.75 No. 1564—A dainty cap, Castle style, made of figured net and trimmed with pretty bows of good quality in delicate shades. - - - ~ 2. No. 1565—A pretty gown of soft nainsook, short waist, finished with dainty embroidery and Val edge; Sizes 14, 15, 16 - - - - $1.50 No. 1566—A practical skirt of good quality muslin, with flounce of embroidery and under ruffle joined with a beading; Sizes 36, 38, 40. - - $1.50 No. 1567—A beautiful skirt of fine nainsook with flounce of lace and embroidery combined; very desirable for use with summer dresses; Sizes 36, a . ° ° . ° $ FINE HOUSEHOLD LINENS We invite all who are interested in reliable housekeeping linens to visit our store, where may be seen the choicest productions of the world’s leading weavers. These beautiful goods are offered at surprisingly moderate prices, our rela- tions with foreign makers enabling us to enjoy advantages not accorded to all importers. Illustrated Booklet sent on request McGibbon & Co. 3 West 37th St. New York OL LE PO PP PP PP PP a a a, SS SSSSSSSSSS SSS TT ea ae eT eo ee ec Aa A Message to American Mothers The Truth About Twilight Sleep By Hanna Rion (Mrs. Frank Ver Beck) 5 Author of “Let’s Make a Flower Garden,” “The Smiling Road,” “The Garden in the Wilderness,” etc. wn ay N this message to mothers by an American mother, Mrs. Ver Beck presents with authority and deep human interest the conclusive evidence of a personal investigation of the Freiburg method of painless childbirth. This method, popularly known as “Twilight Sleep,” is now being successfully used in Russia, France, Hungary, Germany, Finland, Japan, Argentine, England, Scotland, and Ireland, both in maternity hospitals and in private practice. Tene N addition to these investigations Mrs. Ver Beck has translated many thousands of words of foreign medical reports and has left no stone unturned to investigate every objec- tion to the method which came to her ears. The British doctors have proved by thousands of successful cases that the method is entirely practical in private practice. At All Booksellers’ JN preparation for writing this book the author has spent six months of study and investigation including three months at Freiburg Maternity Hospital, in close obser- vation of Dr. Gauss’ method. In the Freiburg Frauenklinik over 5,000 mothers have had children painlessly in “Twilight Sleep.” 12 mo. Illustrated. $1.50 net A Vigorous and Healthy Young Amer- ican, Born at Freiburg, in “ Twilight Sleep ”’ Send for Spring Catalogue McBride, Nast & Co., 31 Union Square North, New York City | H HA ANA HAA Harper's Bazar, May, I9IS .

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One of the newest modzls of the Modart corsets has a comfort-giving fea- ture in the insert, an elastic piece, at either side. Alternating bands of satin and lace make up this new brassiére from the Model Brassiére Co., which tops a billowy Bonwit Tel- ler & Co. skirt with fitted belt. C When (Madame | This bewilderingly lovely combination, at Bonwit Tel- ler & Co., is of flesh-col- oured crépe de Chine like the slumber robe and is beauti- fied with coloured embroi- dery and Valenciennes lace. ER coat, held up to the eyes of the crowd, must carry distinction in its lining. Where to find unrivaled beauty com- bined with the sterling qualities of thorough excellence would be a problem were it not for +O These, in the truest colors, dyed in the yarn—never in the piece—make linings of rare elegance. Even our “nighties” are raised in the front to display the allurement of the flowered mules. Bonwit Teller & Co. has them fashioned from Insist that your tailor or modiste give rose eiaeiearneiie te you Goetz* linings in your outer garments. Or, when buying them ready-made, look for the Goetz label sewn into the lining. Your pride and satisfaction in your coat will be vastly increased if you do. For petticoats, costumes, blouses, try Goetz All Silk Satin by the yard, with the name woven in white in the selvage. It means extra service and beauty. x GOETZ SILK MFG. CO. | Madison Ave. and 34th St., New York 98 The removal! of the lacing from the back of a Modart corset makes possible the use of light back boning, thus relieving the spine from all pressure. The benefits of a cleverly cuts well-shaped brassigre and the beauty of a corset cover are com- bined in this crépe de Chine ind lace creation from the Model Brassiére Co.

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