Harper's Bazaar 1914-09: Vol 49 Iss 9

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Harpers Bazar The Story of CABIRIA. Gabiiele d Annunzio September 1914 IS Cents

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: Hdvance Saul Styles. 120A—Handsome Colonial Redingote Broadcloth Suit, trimmed with silk braid. In navy, brown or black. de Serer $45.00 Black Velvet Tricorne Hat, with white ostrich trimming............ $18.50 120B—Gabardine Gown (copy of a Paris model) with two-tone bead embroidery, black satin skirt under- lay, white satin vestee and collar. In navy. Sizes, 34 to 38.... $32.50 Smart Black Velvet Sailor with ma- line edge and moire ribbons. . .$15.00 120C—Navy Cheviot Suit with plain or Roman striped velvet collar and vestee; copy of a recent imported model. Sizes, 34 to 38....... $45.00 Black Velvet Turban with wing and heckle trimming............ $16.50 Best & Co. FIFTH AVENUE At Thirty-fifth St. NEW YORK Fall Catalog mailed out of town on request. Write Dept. 120 Today Harper's Bazar, Seplember, 1914

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Harper's Bazar, September, 1014 If you cannot obtain this magazine from your news dealer, send his name and address to the Editor of Harper’s Bazar, 149 West 40th St.. New York, and a copy will be sent to you free of charge. HARPER’S BAZAR FOR OCTOBER will contain the advance autumn and winter fashions designed by the great authorities of the world LADY DUFF GORDON (Lucile), POIRET, CALLOT, DOUCET, CHERUIT, PREMET, PAQUIN, WORTH, DRECOLL, BERNARD, LANVIN, JENNY and MARTIAL ARMAND. Articles and Stories Illustrations and Pictures By By Lady Randolph Churchill Nell Brinkley William J. Locke Drian Edgar Saltus Will Foster Marie Van Vorst Matania Lady Theodora Davidson Bevans From cover to cover, Harper's Bazar for October, 1914, promises to be the most beautiful and distinguished periodical ever offered TO THE WOMAN WHO KNOWS. Place your order with the news dealer AT ONCE

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Franklin Simon & Co. PARIS—4 Rue Martel FIFTH AVENUE, 37th and 38th Streets, NEW YORK LONDON—29 Jewin Crescent NEW_FALL MODELS Misses’ School and College Suits and Dresses No. 10—Misses’ regulation sailor suit of navy blue English serge, white or black silk braid on collar and cuffs, embroid- ered stars on collar, embroid- ered emblem on sleeve and detachable shield; silk tie. Skirt fastened to waist with buttons and __ buttonhoies. Same model in all black. 14 to 20 years. Special 14,50 No, 12—Misses’ dress of French serge, smart model with coat back, in navy blue; green, wine, No. 14—Misses’ dress of French serge, modi- fied basque coat model, in navy blue, black or brown, bound with black silk braid, finished with black satin sash and silk braid ornament, detachable white pique Norman collar and cuffs, black bone but- tons, silk bow at neck; skirt with box plaited tunic; 14 to 20years. Special 16,50 No. 16—Misses’ Redingote suit of navy, or brown or black, trimmed with - 4 black serge and satin combination, Norman collar and shield of faille silk; wide black silk braid and jet panel front and sleeves of satin, trimmed with bone buttons; Redingote bound buttons, black satin collar and dctnchatile organdie collar, black moire ribbon with black braid; satin skirt, wide belt of serge, crossed in back ang tied in girdle with bow in back, tunic skirt; 14 to 20 years. . . Special 14,50 loose knot in front. 14 to 20 years. . . . Special 29.50 FALL AND WINTER STYLE BOOK ‘CORRECT DRESS’? READY SEPTEMBER 10th Illustrating Everything in Ready-to-Wear Apparel for Women, Misses, Girls, Men, Young Men, Boys, Children and Infants Mailed out of town upon application to Dept. A Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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wipes WHERE TO SHOP pe ONULENALNAAAARAL AIDA) UE REEU DD LEADER Perrereeereemeeeeee MONTY t TT Ta Baby’s Goods LYMAN-SAWYER MFG. CO. Infants’, Chil- dren's and specially designed furniture of Qual- ity Our Booklet on Revolution in care of the Baby—Free. 613 Delaware, Kansas City, Mo Boas, Feathers, etc. MME. BLOCK. Willow or Ostrich plumes made into masenoye bu rench plumes, a collarette or chic novelty Paradise aigrettes ¢ ee pace, re- modeled. Maii orde ~. filled. 36 W.34th «ay Be H. METHOT, French Feather Dyer and Dresser. Originator of the Art of Reconstruction. Old feathers made into New. 29 West 34th Street Be Books &§ Prints YOUNG WOMAN will purchase rare books and first editions for people who have not the time todo this the: mselves € -ommissions only Libraries form- ed. Address ‘“Collector,’’ Box 116, Kenberma, Mass. Children’s Clothes ON ACCOUNT of the tearing down of the build- ing at 402 Fifth Ave., Beebee and Shaddle, Outfitters for Little People, wish to announce their removal to 48 W. 46th St. Tel. 5676 Bryant. CHILDREN’S DRESSES— Infants’ Stamped ready to embroider and make up other patterns necessary Send for new Hurm Art Shop, 277 Fifth Ave., N. Y Layettes No list. HAND-MADE CHILDREN’S DRESSES from six months to fifteen years. Smocks a specialty, also rompers. Reasonable prices F. Herzner, 841 Hancock St., Brooklyn, N. Y. = ° Candies ANNIE KELLER hocolates, Home Made. Best and purest materials. 1 lb. $1.00; 3 Ibs. $2.50. Prepaid sample 15 cents. Harve y's Candy Shop, Superior, Wisconsin. = Children’s Playrooms A B C PLAY RUGS AND NURSERY PIL- lows Heavy de ay water proof, spot proof. Artistic designs 2.00 and $1.25. Helen Speer Company, 7 West isth St., New York. CHILDREN’S PLAYROOMS AND FUR- niture, chairs, tables, benches. Round corners Artistic, durable. Mode A A so Color plate prints free. Helen Speer Cc W. 45th St., N. Y. PLAYROOMS FURNISHED COMPLETE. Decorated wall panels, furniture, toys. Boy Scout, Japanese rooms, etc Color plate print free. Helen Speer Company, 7 West 45th St., New York. Chiropody Dr. E. N. COGSWELL, Surgeon Chiropodist. Expert Manicuring. Dr. Cogswell's Foot Tonic insures comfort, 1. Foot Ointment, 50c. Toilet Powder, 25c. 501 Fifth Ave., New York. Cleaning and Dyeing MME. PAULINE Expert Cleaner, Dyer. Gowns, Laces, Chiffons, etc., que -of-town orders. 900 Pixth | ave »115 E 34th » Mad. Ave., 233 W. 14th v - - Corsets GOSSARD FRONT LACED CORSETS. Fitted by experienced corsetieres, $3.50 up Cor- sets made to order. Olmstead. Corset Co., 179 Madison Avenue at 34th St., N. T. THOMA, CORSETIERE. Astor Court Building, 25 W. 33rd Street Telephone 469 Greeley. NEW ADDRESS, 18 W. 45th St. Corsets, bras- sieres, corset accessories and sanitary garments. Mail orders carefully attended to. Prices reason- able. L.L.St.John,18 W.45th St.Tel.7377 Bryant. NEYSA reducing corsets, reduce hips and ab- domen from 4 to 12 inches and give comfort 503 Fifth Ave., Room 211, entrance on 42nd St Dancing ALL MODERN sieps—Fox Trot, sic. Charming Terms reasonable. plied for. ENTERTAINMENTS IN AND OUT OF DANCES— Fashion's latest Tango, etc. Stage and Clas- studios. Expert instructors. Also refined dancers sup- town. Address G. Hepburn Wilson, M.B., Master of the Modern Dance. Thorley Floral House, 5th Ave., N. W. Cor. 46th St Tel Bryant 643. Harper's Basar, September, 1914 ese average of twenty-five words. AS i bSase Rate for Classified Advertising Under This Heading One Year Thirty Dollars Payable quarterly in advance, five per cent cash discount. Payable yearly, in advance, ten per cent cash discount. Uniform type. preceding month. Poecbececebescececesceseeebebsescebebe’s Sseebesesec Space limited to four agate lines, Forms close first of Dancing (continued) Employment Agencies | Furs (continued) THE HUDSON BAY IMP. CO., Corporation of furriers, have their fur catalogue ready. Write for same, 753 Sixth Ave. Special reductions during September. Formerly of 23rd Street. FURS REMODELED ~— Repaired by expert mfg. furriers. Latest models, reason able prices. Work- manship and fit guaranteed. Est. 1960. A. Beaber & Co., 33-39 W. 34th St., 8th fi., NEW FURS EXCHANGED FOR OLD ONES Furs made to order at wholesale prices. Coats remodeled to advanced styles, $20. Greenland Fur Co., 366 Fifth Ave., N. Y ENE. Newest dances and graceful carriage rapidly taught. Boston, Tango, One-Step, etc. Individual and private class instructions. Grand Opera House, 309 W. 23d St., Tel. 1616 Chelsea. SIMS STUDIO of Modern Dance. Suite 1144-5 Aeolian Hall. Phone 5566 Bryant. Private in- struction only. Newest Tango, Maxixe, Hesita- tion, One-Step. WEEK-END TUITION—Miss Bena Hoffman in modern dances at your home or daily at studio. The Paviowa Gavotte as taught by her ballet-mas- ter, Cecchetti. 56 E. 34th St. (Murray Hill 2623.) Decorating & Furnishing INDIVIDUAL attention, good taste and years of experience in selecting interior furnishing, enable me to satisfy my customers. Call, write or phone, K. R. Gerry, 546 5th Ave., N. Y. Dress Plaitng & Trimmings SADLEIR— Accordion and side plaitings, pink- ing, buttons covered, hemstitching, dyeing of nets, chiffons, fringes, ete. Gloves cleaned. Mail orders promptly filled. 38 W. 34th S Delicacies TABLE EGGS of the highest quality delivered at a very moderate price. We can take care of all orders, large & small. Write, ‘phone or cali SpringsideFarms,105W.40 St.,R.505.Bynt,7139. PINE TREE COTTAGE PRODUCTS. jelly, French pickle, Quince, honey, ete. in a home kitchen, by original receipts. Geo. B. Preston, Philipse Manor, New Mint York. 507 5th Ave., N. Y. nr. 42d, —s governesses, house= old servants, personal- Inventories taken. MISS BRINKLEY Tel.2414 Murray Hill § keepers,competent house ly investigating references. MISS 3 FITZGERALD, 546 Fifth Ave., cor. 45th | ery Governesses, ‘Hospital- a f Cc *hildren’ . Nurses, Housekeepers, etc. Superior help in all capacities for city or country. Electrolysis Treatment For Superfluous Hair SUPERFLUOUS HAIR, Moles and facial y electricity. ysis th St., New York. Tel. Murray Hili, 1844. S.P. RN HELEN BRIGGS, Electric Needle Expert, per- manently removes hairs, moles, warts, birth- marks. Eyebrows beautified. 12 years at 1133 Broadway,nowat 437 5th Avenue,corner 39th St. MARGARET KEELER, 500 Fifth Ave. Super- fluous hair permanently removed. Electricity. Facial and scalp treatments, manicuring. Tele- phone 4347 Bryant SUPERFLUOUS HAIR on face and body per- manently en Guaranteed. Has stood the test 38 years. No electricity or poison. |« Julian, 16 W. 47th St., N. Y. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR permanently destroyed; | Electric Needle process; No Pain; Physicians’ ref- erences; Demonstration Free; treatment, $1: Writ- ten Guarantee.Mrs.Florence Woodley,47W.34th St. Furs Gowns and Waists Ready to Wear STREET DRESSES, afternoon frocks and evening gowns. Direct from manufacturer. Lowest Says prices. Booklet G, free upon request. Royal Apparel Co.,38-42 E.32nd St.,N.Y. MAXON—Model Gowns. (Estab. 1899.) Ifyou can wear model gowns you can buy them here for one-half the usual value. Dainty French originals. Maxon & Co., 1552 Broadway at 46th St., N. Y. Gowns and Weaitsts Made to Order VICTORINE—REBUILDER OF GOWNS. Old gowns of every kind remodeled equal to new. Evening gowns a specialty. 160 W. 84th St., New York ARTISTIC DRESSES Made from your own material. Unusual remodeling Reasonable price: Homer, 11% W.37 th St.,N.Y.,Tel. 2265 Greeley. MRS. COPELAND Makes distinctive gowns. Also offers model gowns in stock sizes. The Cambridge Bldg., 334 Fifth Ave., N. Y. THERESE MILMOE Gowns and blouses summer models. 2216 Riverside. order to Special rates on 201 West 109th Street. Phone BUY FUR NOW because you can get “Reel Qual- ity.’ Furs at wholesale price (big discount). Write for catalog today. Herman Reel Co., 314 Broad- way. Milwaukee, Wis. MATERNITY GOWNS in latest styles, made to order. All prices Also INFANTS’ COM- PLETE UTFITS. $10_ up. Satisfaction guaranteed. Elizabeth C. Leay, Rockford, Ill. FUR REMODELING. Specialty of Renovat- ing Old Fur Garments. Prices as low as consist- ent with good workmanship. A. H. Green & Son, 25 West 23rd St., N. Y. Phone 1162 Grmcy. Greeting and Place Cards to its value. need. you choose to use it. have proven worthy metropolitan test. “My kingdom for a horse! It was in stirring war times and King Richard needed a horse—needed it very urgently. When you simply must have a thing, the urgency of the need is out of all proportion In times of war, or peace, at any and all times Harper’s Bazar stands ready so far as humanly possible to stop the gap—to fill the This department may prove very useful—if It is an index to many things required in your daily lives. The “Where to Shop” columns contain in- formation concerning goods and service that Yours is the benefit, if you please—without bartering your kingdom! p>? under the strenuous UNIQUE, HAND COLORED GIFT CARDS, | for Christmas. Order early (now) Free Circular. Ernest Dudley Ashburton PI1., Boston. Greetings and Place Cards. Chase, H. B. Hair Goods & Hair Dressing ANNA M. CONSIDINE, Ladies’ Hairdresser. My specialty: Featherweight nair pieces, latest | creations. Unexcelled quality hair. Call or rite. 20 E. 46th St., N. Y. Take elevator. - . Hostery | Armstrong, Olney, Bucks, HOSIERY FROM THE MILL TO YOU. French Silk Hose, full fashioned 3 in a box $3. English Handkerchiefs plain white or colored border 12ina box $3.Harper Mfg. Co.,47W.348t. Jewelry DIAMONDS, OLD GOLD AND SILVER Old gold,platinum,silver bought. Also diamonds, pearls. Jificult antiques, jewelry repaired. Callmann, appraiser, 27 W. 37th St., N. Y Laces SARA HADLEY, 9 East 35th St., N.Y. An- tique and modern laces. V eils, shawls, lace for trousseaux a specialty. to see antique Filet scarfs, a great variety and beautiful. RS. RAYMOND BELL, 1 East 45th St., N.Y. Old and Modern Laces, Bridal laces and Veils. Lace cleaning and mending by experts. Old Family Laces sold on commission. ENGLISH HANDMADE LACE. Dainty col- lars, hankies, fichus, lingery, etc.,made by famous lace-makers of Bucks in their cottage homes. “History Bucks Lace-Making"’ free. Mrs. Melba England. Lingerie THE LINGERIE SHOP, hand embroidered French lingerie is within your means. Values a ualled anywhere. Let us prove it. Catalog eon P. Bailly, 54 West 39th Street, N. Y- GENE SKIRT, a garment which combines skirt and drawers, light as air, hemstitched, $2.00 a garment. Money refunded if not satisfactory. Send belt measure. Mme.Gene, 23 E. 45th St.

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Ladies’ Tailors Photography Specialty Shops Toilet Preparations ( Cont'd) TAILORED GOWNS REMODELED prevailing styles. 19 years’ ae: . Comstock, 286 Fifth Avenue, Ne rk. Fait: ored suits from $65 up. Tel. 158 Madison Square. to H. THE REMODELING SHOP—oOut of style owns and suits remodeled. Mme.Blair,132 West lst Street, New York. Phone 4884 Riverside. SCHOTZ & CO. Tailored Suits—Afternoon and Evening Gowns—Rich Furs. Special facilities for out of —— orders 471 Fifth Avenue, New York. Linens THE OLIVIA CROSS-STITCHED LINENS for Anniversary Gifts—Auction prizes. Children's and Baby Gifts. Designs to order. Send for list. Olivia, 48 Milne St., Bridgeport, Conn. Miscellaneous MME. NAFTAL pays highest cash value for fine misfit or slightly used Evening, street and dinner costumes, furs, diamonds; Jewelry. 69 West 45th St. Telephone 670 Bryant. Millinery LADIES’ FALL HATS remodeled into latest styles of Velvet. Plush, Felt, etc. Cleaned and dyed. Hatstrimmed. Ostrich feathers repaired. Catalog. A. Neumann, 24 East 4th St., N. Y. Patterns PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE for Ladies’ and Children’s garments after any Illustration or description; reasonable prices, perfectfit. er Zstention to mail orders. Mrs. Weisz, 45 W. 34t St PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE FALL—Have ror homes, gardens, children pictured under the est conditions.— Visit our exhibit, 536 5th Ave. Bryant 440. Miss Johnston and Mrs. Hewitt. MAYFAIR, Inc. Exclusive Stationery, Dinner Favors, Prizes, Gifts, and Novelties. Usual and unusual toys, dolls, Jack Horner Pies 661 Fifth Avenue, at 52nd Street, “New York. | evening finish to the toilet. $1 per bottle. Mass. MADAM MAY’S CELEBRATED COM- pete (Liquid Powder) an elegant and delicate ‘autifier of the face, neck and arms. W onde “> for 25 Tem- | a Place, Boston, Private Schools CO-OPERATIVE SCHOOLS AGENCY. Fi- nanced by best schools. All classes. Hence efficient. Call or write. Information consultation, catalogues free. Room 500, 41 Park Row, N.Y Shopping Commissions JANET PORTER Shops for or with patrons. No charge. Prompt, careful attention. Circular. Bank references. 54 W. 92nd St., N. Y. Tel. Riverside 6177. HILDA M. GADE, 74 W.92d St., New York. Every order filled personally. Ten years’ experi- ence. Children's needs a specialty. Orders filled promptly. Correspondence solicited. M Will shop with you or send preva Services free. Send for bulletin of all Specials. 366 Fifth Avenue, New York. MRS. S. D. JOHNSON shops for and with customers without charge. Rush oer ma orders and rugs a specialty. 347 5th Av opp. Waldorf-Astoria. Tel. 2070 Murray Hii. M K. E. TIRNEY. Established 1884. Purchasing agent—all lines of goods, but es- ee | gowns and Se suits from meas- 2 W. 47th St., N. Y. Tel. 3077 Bryant. RS. C. B. WILLIAMS, New York Shopping. | anything on ap- ; BRAIDED AND HAND WOVEN RUGS, — bags and baskets. Made by the Light- use Weavers of the N. Y. een, for the Biind, 111 East 59th St., N. N. _C. WHITAKER & CO., 7 Temple Pl., Bos- Manufacturers, — and Ss — “S. of aries Tortoise Shelli G " filling Fountain Pen, $2. Guar. 9 refunded. GOOD LOOKING SOFA PILLOWS Large assortment and prompt shipment. One Dollar Each. Joseph P. McHugh & Son, 9 W. 42d St., N. Y. Tea Rooms L. RADO, the Matchless liquid Hair Remover, acts instantly, absolutely harmless, used and endorsed by Julian Eltinge. 50 cents and $1 a bottle all stores or Pilgrim Mfg. Co., 37-41 E. 28th St., New York. Toys BUYERS, BUYERS, BUYERS. We can supply to the better trade only the cleverest conceptions in wooden painted toys and figures. One house only in each section. Sand toys and miniatures, con- struction and materials. The Gay Gyrators, Wonder Box, Frisking Fish, War Fleet, Bulging Baisam Bags, and Beasts, Display Schemes shown Stryvely c homaceas Inc., Entire 12th floor, 7 to 11 West 45th S TRY OUR WONDERFUL MARMALADES. Grapefruit marmalade, 30c. Orange and pine- sou marmalade, 35c. Box 428, Babylon, CREOLE PRALINES—Louisiana pecan meats with a delicious home-made blending of maple sugar. Forty cents the box of six. Virginia | Tea Room, 901 Seventh Avenue, N. Y. City. Trousseaux MRS. COPELAND. we edding gowns and Mart trousseaux. Write for particulars. 8 334 Fifth Ave., New york -MRS. SARAH BOOTH DARLING Purchasing Agent. patrons. No charge. References. Chaperon- ing. Steamer baskets. 112 W. 11th St., N. Y. CHARLOTTE BURR. Take advantage of New York’s famously low prices and my experience in shopping. No charge. Orders ailed “ed References. 116 Nassau St., N. Y. City Perfumery PARFUMS “RIVIERA. The natural odor Six sa les Parfums de luxe, 50c. Fifth Avenue. Catalog of specialites de beauté on request. Social Entertainer SOCIAL bi dk pete gy ag ahs PLANNED, Unique, original ideas for Pageants, po Children’s Fetes, etc. All —— Teoeiv emy attention. aiareaee atriage 27 6th 8 Street, Weehawken, N. J. Tel. ‘union | Accompanying out-of-town Toilet Preparations DAINTY WHITE—A perfect whitening for the neck and arms, for the evening toilet. Harm- less, will not rub off. = head mail. Ray Mfg. Co., 246 W. 46th St., N. GARDENIA BLOOM AND CREAM, NON- cosmetic, yet give skin white bloom, and velvet textureof name-flower. PateGrise, foraging hands, Booklet. Aurora Specialties Co., Lowell, Mass. COMPLEXION. A smooth unblemished skin follows the use of Ocidan Complexion Tablets, $1.00abox. Sample l0cents. Comfort Chem- ical Company, 184 Summer St., Boston, Mass. | Craft Guild, Craftsman Bldg., N. Y. Uniforms for Maids, etc. NURSES OUTFITTING ASSOCIATION, 450 Fifth Ave., near 40th St., N orrect uniforms for Women. Only pa house of its kind in the world. Write for catalog B. Unusual Gifts ON VOYAGE BOXES B Made by —_ Stevenson of Sewickley, Pa. t yeaa. Mass. Until October Ist. GRANDMA’S OLD FASHIONED QUILTS Cut and basted ready to make at Miss Steven- eee Shops, Hyannis, Mass., and Watch Hill, WHY NOT ENGAGE in profitable business? Our liberal offer has established hundreds of special shops. Information on ae Forest ity. CHARMING NEGLIGEES gg tomy are hand embroidered on Oriental Crepe. Tango Coats in silk $4.75. Booklet ae , Sifts. eThe Allen Company, 500 West 177th St., N. Y. OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY CARDS tor birthdays, tallys, dinners, etc. Write for our latest catalog, ‘‘Pleasant Pages.”” Little Art Shop, 1419 F Street, Washington, D. C. S2UIIUTAANUOTAAUUOUUAAUOUOUAAEAEOAAOOEOAGAOOTGAEOEAAGAUOTAGAEUEAEAT AAG 1. Disc-1 BROWER 2. THREE Graces CRAFTSMAN BUILDING This beautiful building, on 39th Street, just off Fifth Avenue, becomes your Clubhouse when you become a Craftsman subscriber. ~ Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 3. aUGuUsTUS 4. CUPID aND PSYCHE 5. VENUS DE MILO To every reader of HARPER’S BAZAR who sends in the “Guaran- teed Coupon” below, THE CRAFTSMAN will send absolutely FREE, all charges prepaid, any one of the above miniature 6, soy wirn THORN 7. APOLLO bisque statuettes, as explained below. If you are not personally acquainted with THE CRAFTSMAN Magazine, you must have heard it spoken of admiringly, and you will welcome the opportunity extended to you by this Guaranteed Coupon to find out for yourself, without risking a penny, just why so many cultured, thinking men and women—particularly educators, artlovers, homelovers, and homemakers— regard THE CRAFTSMAN as “the most worth-while magazine in America.” Mail the ‘Coupon today, with a dollar bill pinned to it, and if you cancel your subscription, we will return your entire remittance, and you may keep the magazines sent to you. If you send in the Coupon promptly, before the copies are all gone, we will also send you FREE our A 1H buildi Number (240 pages, 24 in colors), really a beautiful book of permanent value to the homelover,—or, if you prefer, the July number (a typical issue of THE CRAFTSMAN) containing among other features the following: “America at the Forge; or The New Civilization,” by Mrs. Havelock Ellis; “Community Music-Drama,” by Arthur Farwell; “The Two Great Painters of the Apple Land of Spain,” by Mildred Stapley; “The Making and Planting of Water Gardens,” by Will Comfort, and articles on Outdoor Living East and West, Our Native Woods, Camping with Comfort, Poppies and Roses, More Atmosphere in Gardens, Craftsman Homes, etc.—all illustrated in the character- SAUTUTUTUUULARAUASUCOOUUUOUGUAUATATAAA AAAS THE CRAFTSMAN, Craftsman Building, 6 East 39th Street, New York. Genilemen—Please record me as a ‘Guaranteed Subscriber” for four months, beginning with the September issue, and send me the Annual Homebuilding Number or the July Number, FREE, if the supply is not exhausted. It is understood at any time’before receiving the November issue I may cancel my sub- Lounsberry; ‘ ‘Spring and the One Elm Tree,” istic manner that has earned for The Crafts- man a world-wide dis- tinction as a magazine of lasting beauty. By COPYING this cou- pon you may send in additional subscriptions for your friends, and we will give you anadditional statuette for each extra subscription thus sent in. (Signed) .... Address .... close $1.00 in full payment. scription and you will return the $1.00. Please send me Statuette No. 8, ARIADNE ON LION 9, VENUS WITH APPLE 10. DIsc-THROWER by Alice en- . without cost to me, all charges prepaid. — ail

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nH ACh TT fo 3 BAZAR The Oldest Publication for Women in America. Published consecutively for Forty-eight Years. vel. XLIX FOR SEPTEMBER, 1914 Copyright, 1914, by International Magazine Company. (Harper's Bazar.) WEST UNION Received at 473NY oO 133 PARIS AUG 8TH 1914 HARTERS BAZAR, 119 WEST 40TH ST nrc, FASHIONS SHOW THE 1830 INFLUENCES, SKIRTS ARE SHORT AND FULL. JACKETS LONG WITH BASQUES. EVENING COATS ARE VOLUMINOUS. CAPES EXIST NO MORE. NECKS FOR HOUSE AND STREET ARE OECOLLETE, BUT JACKETS ARE MADE WITH HIGH COLLARS OF FUR OR MILITARY CHOCKERS OF BRAID. WORTH SHOWS EVENING GOWNS OF BROWN VELVET WITH FITTED WAISTS AND FULL SKIRTS, OOEVILLET USES THE RUSSIANBLOUSE FOR TAILLEURS, MARTIAL AND ARMAND EFFECTS THE NEW PRINCESS LINE, LONG, LOOSE AND STRAIGHT, AND USES A SHORT FULL SKIRT WITH MANY POINTED TUNICS. EVENING GOWNS ARE SLEEVELESS wiTH TIGHT ORAPEO CORSAGE AND LOW DECOLLETE. SOME FEW EVENING GOWNS HAVE SCANT, OVERLAPPING, SQUARE CUT OR POINTED TRAINS. GORGEOUS BROCADES, SUPPLE VELVETS, QUANTITIES OF GOLD AND SILVER NET AND METAL | ACES ARE PROFUSELY USED. 1. HUBBARD 9.40PM If we flirt more boldly vue Will th ival of th with crinolines the min- c O N B3 E Ae j . mails a te aed Em- ire bring hips back into fashion? wet must succeed the tango. , , PAGE MISS JANET FISH (PORTRAIT) LADY RANDOLPH CHURCHILL SCENES AT SOUTHAMPTON WAR AND NEWPORT GRANDHOMME THE CHATEAU DE MARAIS PARIS SNAPSHOTS DRAWING BY LELONG GABRIELE D'ANNUNZIO LOVE LETTERS TO VICTOR HUGO . SCENIC WALL PAPERS DRAWING BY ICART THE WELL BUILT GIRL WILLIAM J. LOCKE ~~ © © oe MISS MORELAND LADY DUFF GORDON : When the flare Must we train the figure drops to the feet. IN HONOUR OF THE DANCE..... ... for the princesse lines? FASHIONS BY TIGHE FASHIONS BY SOULIE FASHIONS BY SOHEK THE OBSERVER.... Sketches made RUTH McENERY STUART in Paris by Kelly b 4 IS YOUR HARPER’S BAZAR LATE? d, ~e Harper's Bazar is forwarded so as to be in the hands of subscribers and newsdealers all over the country a on the 29th of each month. In certain sections, magazines do not receive the same handling as other > : classes of mail—they go by freight, which makes for slowness and irregularity of delivery. The leap from the kimono If your copy does not reach you by the 29th, please wait two or three days before writing us, as the Only the tall, the fair and u to the basque can only be magazine will probably be delivered within that time. By following this both subscribers and thi ttempt achieved by the corset. the publishers will be saved a great deal of y di the — at Patterns, cut to the measurement of the individual, will be drafted from any costume shown in the magazine for $4.00, and $2.00 for waist, skirt or jacket. Harper’s Bazar is published monthly by the International Magazine Company, George L. Willson, President: S. S. Carvalho, Treasurer + George von Utassy, Secretary, 119 West 40th Street, New York City. Single Copies, 15 cents. Yearly subscriptions, $1.50. When you receive notice that your subscription has expired it is best to renew at once, using the blank enclosed, so that no interruption will occur in your receipt of The Bazar. In requesting change of address pleas¢ give the address to which The Bazar is now being sent, as well as the new one. Entered at the New York Post-office as second-class mail. Address all communications to HARPER’S BAZAR, 119 West 40th Street, New York City Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 6

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Advance models from Lord &S Taylor e ot Fai. Pre Catelan ~ Colombin’ 's Pane ae Sera Pré Catelan—When this model was showWn in Paris, its success was immediate. Palais Persan—The basque model was enthusiastically welcomed by the fashionable The innovation;is so charming, so refreshing,in its simplicity of design. You can Americans in Paris during the season. It was much seen en promenade along the now secure it here in the ultra. desirable navy blue serge made over black char- Bois. This model is noticeable for its good simple style and the truly artistic meuse. Notite the sleeve of the charmeuse, close- fitting and long, set in narrow handling of lines. Of black or navy blue satin—which soft, supple fabric lends armhole; the flaring godet overskirt and the long free lines of the basque; the itself best to the new mode. The flaring tunic under the low belted waist-line, low loose waist line. All of these are changes so radical that one’s last season’s tight sleeves, narrow armholes, deep flaring cuffs and wide collar—each strike an dresses seem absurdly old-fashioned. The linen collar and revers show how pas- important note in producing a frock that is in perfect harmony with the most sionately the French cling to this chic touch of white. A serviceable, practical dress advance tendencies for the coming season. For small women or misses—16, 18 or for general wear yet one which has so much character and style that you will enjoy 20 years—at the special Price Of .00.ece ccvcccccccesgeccccccccccesceces $19.50 wearing it on semi-formal occasions. Exceptionally attractive value at the price of $25.00 The latest divertisement in the sailor shape of black velvet with moire ribbon. owe black velvet turbah, lined with tan taffeta silk. Copy of new Lewis rt Very good style and most becoming............c.cecececeeeeerceeeecees $10.00 SE OF asees cheers dabcns aabebnx ected aakdakbews cousin baw sabanes Ciro—Unusually true to its French origin is this handsome costume. It is a most delightful amplification of the Redingote. The effect is exceedingly smart_and Colombin’s—The Redingote, so successfully launched by Cheruit, is very generally lines are unusually becoming. Notice the apron drapery of chiffon which is richly approved by French houses. The ar Sass poe 4 oe sega hn a a embroidered in iridescent beads; an exceptionally smart note is this. It appears note. Notice the a and Ce Sees Reon vere ty an - Bs we se again in the richly colored bead bands over the hips and on the waist where the wide of the skirt is in the long tunic . oi P ll " a S surplice girdle is held in place. f the navy serge so much in favor, with under- the ankles. Of serge, to which Fashion has sworn allegiance, in eit A navy = skirt and girdle and long close inven of black charmeuse. The vestee is of crisp black, ph black satin cuffs and —~. a narrow oy to oranda ly This m oe sheer organdy with a generous, well shaped collar of fine white linen. No more line of the deep V neck and the new hig Keay -y most becomningh y ia model successful model has come through the Customs. It is an authentic advance style created much enthusiasm when worn at the French race meets. 36 to 44 inc $19.50 in every detail. Sizes 36 to 44 inch bust. Specially priced at.............. $39.50 SHecially priced... .cceccccscvvcccecceccesccsnvececewecsseccccetessens This sailor is of the new plush so much in demand, with lovely ostrich fancy; in The new Continental of Navy blue with wings of the same hue, smartly placed. A ’ ee a ee ae ee Pe ae . $5.95 copy of one of Varon’s most successful models............0cseeeeeeeecees $14.95 As in the past, orders by mail from out of town customers will receive immediate attention and be filled with painstaking care and accuracy Fifth Avenue Lord &F T aylor New York Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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‘A 4 ‘ , 5 ) | \ \ ~ . Jd eer“ mlipet stssshsessse Camera portrait by Mrs. J. C. Fairchild Campbell Studio MISS JANET FISH Miss Fish, who is the daughter of Mr. Hamilton Fish of Garrison, N. Y., is spending the season at The Crossways, Newport, with her aunt, Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish, whom she assists in all her entertainments. She is an expert tennis player and takes an important part in the women’s tournaments which are always a feature of the Newport season. Harper's Bazar, Seplember, 1014

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Lady « By the andolph CLweball he ¢€¢r + 8S 2 S$ 2 m.6. 7 = ft Even in the rush and bustle of the present age the letter is a cherished means of communication between friends. Lady Randolph Churchill, writing exclusively for HARPER’S BAzar, discusses the gentle art, making some interesting comments on letters and letter writing. HO has the time or the inclination nowadays to write letters for the sake of writing? The hurry of the pres- ent age, the telegraph, the telephone, the threatened wireless in your own pocket, annihilates space and time. The telltale “scrap of paper” has in all times figured largely in history. It is the boon of the playwright and the novelist and it goes on being the pivot and answer to any amount of conundrums. For as long as the human race lasts, people will always put pen to paper indiscreetly and damn themselves accordingly. The letter written in “frantic haste” and thrust into the wrong envelope is a fruitful source of trouble. A story is told of the Duchess ofi-— who some years ago invited a friend to dinner to have the honor of meeting the late Duchess of Teck. “Do help me to entertain fat Mary,” she wrote, and by mis- take addressed the letter to the Duchess who being amiable, = from having a keen sense of humour, replied: ‘Fat Mary will be delighted to be enter- tained.” Perhaps such a mistake could not have happened in the days when letters took the form of long folded parchments, the sealing of which was a matter of care and patience.... What a thrilling tale might be unfolded, could one reconstitute and fol- low from start to finish the adventures of a letter containing important matter, written let us say in the 16th century,—the number of horses employed, the stirring incidents on the way, the hairbreadth escapes of the trusty messenger, who often lost his life in defending the precious script hidden in his doublet, and which eventually reached its goal entrusted to other hands. How different from these old-time documents is the business-like appearance of the modern letters, the thick white paper with its abbreviated tele- graphic address and telephone number, not to mention railway station and postal town. The delicately tinted pink and mauve paper with gilt edges, the monograms and ciphers so dear to the heart of the Early Victorian élégante have disap- peared, and with them the monogram album. Instead we have the kodak and the visitors’ book Har per’s Bazar, September, 1914 with which every girl arms herself when going to a country house visit where, if the party is large, you may be called upon to sign your name twenty times or more. The same feeling which prompts us to write a longer letter to a distant friend than to one nearer home animated most letter writers in days gone by. Then the amount people had to say often, if not always, made them discursive and long winded; nor is it to be wondered at when one reflects that in those days most people, owing to the difficulties, not to say dangers, of travelling, remained at home for months at a time, and a letter received or sent was generally an event of great importance to the whole household. Of course there was plenty of time to polish and repolish, and eventually to send off a highly finished and thought out epistolary document, much in the nature of a diary recording the most minute actions of the writer’s daily life, and his opinions and feelings on every subject he could think of. Today, the stilted sentimental writers of the early eighteenth century would find few votaries, since most people can hardly find time for even the telegraphic styles most of them adopt. When Mary Wollstonecraft, writing to Gilbert Imlay from Paris (1793), says: “I have not left the hue of love out of the picture—the rosy glow; and fancy has spread it over my own cheeks I believe, for I feel them burning, whilst a delicious tear trembles in my eye that would be all your own if a grateful emotion directed to the Father of Nature, who has made me thus alive to happiness, did not give more warmth to the sentiment it divides,” she adds: “I must pause a moment.” We think so too! Per- haps this studied effusion did not give as much pleasure to its recipient as did the one laconic word “DAILY” sent every morning by a lovesick swain who was no scribe to his inamorata; “DAILY” meaning “Darling Anne I love you.” Probably that was all she really wanted to know, and all he wanted to say. Love letters, after all, belong to a different category and are only, as some one said, “records of love-making.’”’ The wife who writes to her husband: “TI write as I have noth- ing to do, and I cease as I have nothing to say,” 9 likewise adopts a style free from unnecessary ver- biage! In the old days marriages by proxy were frequent occurrences, but love letters by proxy can have dangerous consequences. ‘The writer remembers a girl friend of her youth who was persuaded to be- come engaged to a diplomat considerably older than herself. The girl, young and beautiful, but of a reticent nature which her enemies called stupidity, was not gifted with a ready pen, and the fact of having to answer his letters caused her much per- turbation and, at last, in desperation she invoked the aid of a friend who, nothing loth, amused herself writing the most impassioned love letters for her; these, although they encouraged and delighted her fiancé, were so inconsistent with her cold and in- different manner, that he could not reconcile them, and eventually suspected the truth, with the result that, much to the indignation of the parents, the engagement was broken off—to the content and unbridled laughter of the two conspirators. There is no doubt that with the advent of the daily press brought in with your breakfast, which gives you the news of the world not to mention the tittle tattle of society, topics for gossipy letters become singularly curtailed. Possibly the historian or Samuel Pepys of the future will have to go to the press for his descriptions of the events he wishes to chronicle or for supplements of his ‘hearsays.” In England the records of Parliamentary debates, which touch on every ‘subject, furnish sufficient material to satisfy the most inquisitive mind, for there are few things big or little that are not dis- cussed in the House of Commons. There are naturally all kinds of letters but the most entertaining are undoubtedly the indiscreet ones, the writer of which is neither thinking of posterity, nor afraid that his effusion will be seen by other eyes than intended, nor does he attempt argument or eloquence, the grave of “abandon,” so necessary for a light and graphic pen. On the whole it would not be true to say that the gentlest of Arts is entirely a thing of the past. There will always be good letters written so long as people are interested in each other and distance separates them.

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Shifting Sands and Scenes pv << tt * : ae oe Me ioe « 5 US Mrs. Oliver Harriman and Mrs. Lawrence Dilworth

Miss Lisa Stillman and Miss Mildred Stillman. The Church on the Dunes, a Sunday gathering place. Francis Preston, Betty Sharp, Charlotte Potter, Gladys Olcott, and Seymour Preston. Mrs. Sidney Breese and “M Gregor.’ Mrs. George Patterson and her daughter, Beatrice.

Gn0wn sno. Betty Hammil and the two daughters of i Mrs. Candler Cobb, Sie, H. Ives Cobb, Jr., and Herbert Coppell. . 's. Lyttleton Fox.

Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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at Southampton, Miss Blanche Tyng, a typical Southampton mermai Mrs. W. Scott Cameron, with group of friends. oe Miss Feagene nN James B. Eusti i d Mrs. Le Grand Grieweld. = Vine a Mrs. Howard C. Dickinson, a daughter of Mr. James Russe Soley. Mrs. Lawrence Dilworth and her son, Joseph Dilworth. Mr. Emilen Littell, Mrs. James Parrish Lee, and Miss Clara Lee. seown Geos. Mrs. Lucien H. Tyng and Miss Anna Miss Lida Fleitman, in characteristic Charles and Alice de Forest, children of Shepherd ansing. tailleur. Knapp de Forest. Photographed exclusively for Harper’s Bazar Har per’s Bazar, September, 1914 Ir

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The Great Grandhomme in his atelier. Top of powder box. N the mondain world of Paris, special designs for personal effects are absolutely de rigueur. No leader of this set could possibly be smart if the settings of her jewels, her toilet‘articles, or even her umbrella handle, could be duplicated in some shop window. Not to lose caste, she must also have her miniature done in coloured enamels. It is in the applied arts that Monsieur Paul Grand- homme has brought perfection to its apogee. On account of his undeniable superiority, some of the greatest names in Europe are among his clientele. The late King George of Greece, for example, “com- manded” a book cover to be made for him, in which regal piece of art, Grandhomme turned out a chef d’oeuvre. The border of the cover is of repoussé silver with medallions at the four corners. The panel in the centre is in rich coloured enamel, the figure representing .Winerve d’ Athens. In 1890 Grandhomme _ estab- lished his reputation with an enamel portrait of King Edward, then the Prince of Wales, and many similar orders soon followed from the ranks of nobility where the check book would permit of this extravagance. His finest miniatures are on small plaques of gold over which is painted the portrait in the coloured enamel, and he is now making possible mi- lady’s fad of wearing an enameled minature of herself on the side of her tiny watch. Monsieur is at present working on two exquisite rings, one destined for a French marquise, the other fora Russian princess. A charming con- ception was the ring with two fishes, opened mouthed, just in the act of taking the bait of the large pearl in the centre. In the process of Basar, September, 1914 Harper's Grandhomme Art French Master of Applique Paul Grandhomme, renowned French designer and artist, caters to the vanity of “having the only one like it in the world” by never duplicating a product. > +} 4 ‘ “KY, Y “ Naiade,” miniature in enamel Below: One of the forty looking glasses made by Grandhomme for the members of the “ Société des Amis des Bibelots.” making, also, are seven scarf pins, ordered by a prominent French art lover, called the “ Days of the Jewel casket in the Museum of Decorative Arts 12 Enamel miniature portrait Week,” designed with the signs of the zodiac and making a special pin for each day. Grandhomme’s miniscule figures have all the per- fection of the heroic statues. For his tiniest figure— one seen at his studio was only half an inch high—he requires a modeland faithfully drawsand models from nature. He not only designs, models, and enamels his products, but even “fires” and finishes them himself. A jewel casket, one of Grandhomme’s master pieces, was bought by the French government for the Museum of Decorative Arts, a part of the Louvre. The frame is of cream ivory bound with branches of gilded bronze. The panels on the sides are in enamel, and the diminutive figure on the top of the lid is also in gilded bronze. His ingenuity was tested to the utmost by a very recherché club, “La Société des Amis des Bibelots,” composed of forty members, who conceived a very novel idea. Each wished to possess a precious object coming from Grandhomme’s hands, and they gave him an order for forty mirrors, one for each member, the only stipulation being that Truth should be the symbol on each glass, represented each time by a different figure. The oval frame is a mélange of silver and gold with brilliantly cut white crystal pendants. Rare and choice objects are all of Grandhomme’s productions, whether paper cutters, buckles, necklaces, cigarette boxes, or what not, and as one searches the antique shops today for Catharine de Medici snuff boxes, fifteenth century enamels and hand made jewelry, so will genera- tions to come seek out the art treas- ures from the hands of this twentieth century Benvenuto Cellini.

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MADAME BAKHMETEFF CAMERA PORTRAIT BY WAS. J. C. FAIRCHILD, CAMPBELL STUDIO Immediately upon the declaration of war, the Russian Ambassador and Madame Bakhméteff, who are spending the season in Newport, recalled their invitations and the owl house opposite the Casino dropped out of all social affairs. Madame Bakhméteff was Miss Mary Beale of Washington, daughter of an American General. The War and Newport HEN August was ushered in by war and rain, the most confirmed opti- mist realized that nothing could save “the season” in Newport, South- ampton, Bar Harbor, or, in fact, anywhere else! July was dull enough, dear knows, for no one felt like spending any real money even before the Dogs of War broke their leashes and sprang angrily at each other’s throats. At time of writing, the result of Germany’s declaration of war is on the knees of the Gods—the War Gods, alas, not those of Peace. As in other crises, we find the daily papers giving much space to Newport and its affairs, and as usual there is much criticism thereat, among the un- initiated. For only those who know their Newport realize that, within a stone’s throw of each other, the Russian and German embassies fling their col- ours skyward. The German ambassador, to be sure, is in his native land this year, but the various secretaries remained on this side and the business of the embassy proceeded just as during the winter, in Washington. All during the first week of August, when suspense was in the air, the Bakhméteffs, Russia’s represen- tatives, and the dashing Haniel von Haimhausen and his associate, Kurt von Lersner, the Kaiser’s repre- sentatives, met on Bellevue Avenue and at the Casino, each delightfully punctilious toward the other. Not the War Lord himself could make the German attachés other than charmingly deferential toward the First Lady of the Russian Embassy. The most eagle-eyed onlooker could not detect the slightest shade of restraint in the greeting of those debonair secretaries, Loris Melikoff and Boris Yonine, and their “enemies,” of the Kaiser’s staff. In fact, at that time they were all living together under one roof! Dinner hostesses who changed their plans so that the representatives of the warring countries need not meet at their tables, found that they had been unnecessarily anxious. Russia and Germany, although recalling their own invitations, were perfectly willing to meet at Newport’s tables, for there they were on neutral ground. It was noticed, however, that the dashing Yonine and the Baron Horst von Lersner dropped out of the tennis games. Harper's Bazar, Seplember, 1914 By KATRINA STUYVESANT During these exciting days, it was stated that no change of residence would be made by either em- bassy. Preference was given by the telegraph companies to diplomatic messages, and they could keep as closely in touch with home affairs as at the capital. As war progressed and the tension increased, the von Lersner brothers and Count von Rath, whose engagement to Miss Cecelia May, of Washington, was announced in the spring, were re- called to Germany, for in time of war they are army officers first, and diplomats last, and the chiefs of staffs of both countries returned to Washington. Newport as a war centre But there was much else, too, which made New- port important as a news centre. The Duchess of Marlborough was compelled to return from New York because of the detention of the Vaterland. The delay was more than ordinarily unfortunate, for she had arranged to spend four weeks in Scot- land with her two boys. She was in constant com- munication with the British Consul and the steam- ship companies and finally, after a week’s delay, was able to sail on the St. Paul. Her companion on the voyage over was the Countess of Granard, the erstwhile Beatrice Mills, who arrived on the Olympic on Wednesday, spent Thursday in Newport and sailed again on Friday. The duchess kept up her spirits by playing tennis on the Casino courts every day during this period of “watchful waiting.”” The habitués of the Casino were amused to see how cleverly the duchess and her mother preserved their neutrality under the trying conditions. Whenever the daughter arrived with Boris Yonine, the Russian attaché, the mother would be convoyed by the Ger- man, Count von Rath; and vice versa. The financiers who usually spend part of each week in the Colony and other men who had interests at stake deserted their homes and sped townward by yacht and train. The branch offices of the New York brokerage houses on the avenue were thronged every minute of every day, and bulletins and tickers were read as eagerly by women as by the few men who did not desert the Colony. At the end of the first week of hostilities, several hostesses, notably Mrs. Fish, Mrs. French Vander- 13 bilt, Mrs. Arthur Curtiss James and Mrs. Hermann Oelrichs, having cards out for elaborate entertain- ments, recalled them, primarily because they could not be sure of any men, and purely feminine parties seemed too much like Leap Year. There were other reasons, too, which weighed, that of expense, and the fact that Newport has extensive marriage relations with every foreign country now at war. No one has hitherto realized just what a general European war would mean to so many American families. The atmosphere of the Casino and the various clubs was depressing to a degree. While every one was friendly as individuals to all the foreign attachés it was whispered at the Reading Room and Casino club that it would be wiser for them all to remain away. Some members were afraid that discussions might wax heated and the harmony of the clubs be disturbed. No one seemed ready to go on with original plans, and even the women wore their oldest clothes! The effect would have been amusing, had not the cause been so tragic. Oh, there is no doubt that the City by the Sea provided much food for-news of one kind or another! It is a pleasing change to turn from the strain of the present to the very delightful happenings of late July. There was much entertaining, though gen- erally in a quiet way, for the Duchess of Marl- borough, the climax being of course the Chinese ball given for her by her mother. Mrs. Fish’s dinner dance at Crossways, on the night of August first, although dimmed somewhat by the early war news, was one of those beautiful events that only Mrs. Fish seems able to carry through. Crossways ballroom is exquisite, a dream of white and delicate green. Pink roses predomi- nated in the decorations, and after the dinner, danc- ing was of course the order of the night. Margaret Hawkesworth and Basil Durant, fresh from their Paris triumphs, danced the fado and their own waltz, greatly to the delight of every one there. A de- cidedly novel touch that I prophesy will take New York by storm this winter was the singing waltz, in which the music was sung by a member of the Metropolitan Opera Company, a tenor of rare quality, the orchestra acting as a very subdued back- (Continued on page go)

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The Chateau de Marais Seine et Oise, France About two hours’ ride from Paris in the picturesque district of the Seine et Oise is situated the magnificent old chateau de Marais. It was purchased from the duc de Noailles for Anna Gould at the time she married her former husband, the comte Boni de Castellane, and is regarded by many critics as one of the finest of the eighteenth century chateaux. “Cela vaut Versailles” is an expression often heard in describing it. Dating from the year 1770, the exterior of massive gray stone is in the Louis XVth style, the flat facade extending in wings from either side of the main central section. Almost hidden in the midst of a vast wooded park, it is sur- rounded by formal terraced gardens. One of the photographs shows a garden extending five hundred yards in length and framed by a canal of running water. The arrangement of the fountains at once recalls the gardens of Versailles. The main entrance is through a court of honour, an entrance characteristic of all French Harper's Basar, September, 1014 The Home of the Princesse de Sagan (Anna Gould) chateaux. This is enclosed by a deep water- filled moat which flows out to supply the enor- mous basin of the artificial lake, a glimpse of which can be seen in the photograph at the bottom of the opposite page. Against a back- ground of rolling country the picture disclosed invariably calls forth exclamations of delight from strangers. From the court of honour the visitor enters directly into a marble paved central hall. Leading from either side of the hall are the salons; on one side the large state salon and the smaller and less informal rooms and on the other the apartments of the Princesse de Sagan. Back of these, and facing the terraced French gardens, are the apartments of her husband. In addition there are several guest rooms on the ground floor, though the second floor is given up entirely to suite after suite of guest rooms decorated in the Louis XVIth style, the walls hung in gorgeous brocades and the bedsteads canopied and upholstered in the same costly fabric.

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If through the misfor- tunes of war the prov- inces of France are laid waste more than one American woman will mourn the loss of a home of inestimable historical value. One of the oldest chateaux—and by many In renovating and redecorating the interior of the chaieau its owner followed closely the period of Louis XVI and displayed in all the details of the furnishings the accuracy and painstaking attention for which she is noted, her hotel on the Avenue Bois de Boulogne, which is modeled after the Grand Trianon at Versailles, being considered a marvel of period decoration. The state salon is typical of this ornate period of decoration. The ceiling is elaborately carved and painted, the walls are columned and panelled in coloured marble, the furniture is upholstered in satin brocades, the windows are hung with the same rich stuffs, and the crystal chandeliers and gilded sconces are thoroughly in keeping with the character of the room. The very atmosphere is formal, and this room is opened only for formal entertaining. There are smaller rooms leading from this regal apartment and furnished in very much the same style, yet less formal and for- bidding. Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 considered one of the fin- est of the eighteenth cen- tury chateaux—belongs to the Princesse de Sagan, who, before’ her mar- riage, was Miss Anna Gould, the younger daughter of the late Jay Gould. ina | The formality of the dining salon is gained largely through the severity of its decorations. It is an enormous room tiled in black and white marble. The marble walls are bare of all hangings, but ornamented with profuse carvings and bas reliefs and decorated with ornate gilt sconces. The table is of mahogany and the chairs have cane backs and seats and carved and painted wooden frames. Here again the owner has retained in every detail the characteristic simplicity of the dining-rooms of this period in France. In her own apartments the Princesse de Sagan has indulged her love of luxury in every direc- tion. No princess of fairy-lore fame ever slept in a more elaborately furnished abode. The bed, upholstered in pale blue satin, is sheltered by a canopy of the same silky fabric and covered by a counterpane of priceless Venetian lace mounted over the ciel tinted satin. The furni- ture is of mahogany, richly inlaid, and the chairs are upholstered in brocade harmonizing with the appointments of the bedstead.

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Paris—betore the war Mrs. Nicholas Longworth. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, Jr. Mlle. Forzane Mrs. Craig Biddle Madame Georgette Y4 “ee | g Bands of fur trail a serpen- tine path over this lace frock. A velvet cuirass is worn with lingerie dresses. A “simple” lace frock. Plaits appear in the tunics. Of Martine silk. A practical cape-coat. The Bernhardt ruche. Har per’ Bazar, September, 1014

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DRAWING BY LELONG Wish I’'d put my money on her.

oO “XN fe H fo) wo ~ 4 qm 3g a? a's QA = °F & A es oe Ss me > are) kb aw Lk. gy Me] _ ] i) 5 $ 3 = z < = 4 Oo ta n ar, September, 1014 Ba Harper's chan or a LS

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~ ¢ ne Y Atha ea EGA rs SS Cabiria is protected by Sophonisba after being rescued from a fiery death in the temple of Moloch by Fulvius and his powerful slave, Maciste. Harper's Basar, September, 1014 18

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Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 CABiLiRSItSs By Gabriele d’Annunzio PICTURES REPRODUCED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION OF THE AUTHOR Gabriele d’Annunzio is the first great dramatist to utilize the cinemato- graph as a medium of expression. After a long career as journalist, novelist and poet he conceived this epic picture drama, “‘Cabiria,”” which took two years’ time and cost over $250,000 to produce. Sig. d’Annunzio has made a thorough analysis of the possibilities of moving pictures as a new art and predicts a brilliant future for cinematography, which he believes will eventually emancipate the modern stage from the base and_ ignoble standards which now dishonour it. nation of the ignoble and the decadent from the modern stage. In fact, this providential revival of the ancient art of pantomime has already been instrumental in put- ting to rout many of the questionable theatrical enterprises with which our generation is dishonoured. Public taste is constantly becoming more discrimin- ating, and, as we have no Herostratus to burn the gilded barracks in which abominable theatrical merchandise is sold, there is every reason to believe that the motion picture film is the medium destined to eventually bring about our dramatic salvation. I cannot help smiling as I recall a prank that Leonardo da Vinci once played upon a group of visitors. The great artist collected and strung together a quantity of sheep’s intestines and, after assembling his friends in a small room, had the mass secretly blown up with a pair of bellows until it swelled to such an enormous size that it filled the space and forced the company to flee in dismay. Leonardo, who was fond of allegories, seems to have unconsciously offered us a prophetic image of the 19 HE rapid development of the cinemato- i graph is, curiously enough, proving to be ‘ one of the most vital factors in the elimi- modern theatre, emptied of its patrons by the con- stant growth of the motion picture habit. And I, with my little pair of bellows, am helping the worthy crusade along to the best of my ability. Dramatists and poets who follow my example and admit the value of the moving picture will find it an engine of both liberation and destruction. The art of the theater needs to be emancipated. As its apostle Gordon Craig well says, ‘“‘The first step toward the new theatre must be a step toward liberty. The stage is like a barren woman whom we expect to give birth to some living thing. Let us leave her for a while in peaee that the impulse of fruitfulness may revive. Give her time to breathe after twenty-five centuries of bitter experi- ence and a chance to recover from these latter years of fatiguing prostitution.. Let her withdraw to the hills and rest. And evenif she never returns, she may yet send to us a son, a fine strong son.”’ However, it is difficult to picture the features of this child of the future. When we go where our sense of rhythm is grati- fied, it seems as if Phrynichus were returning to us; the Phrynichus who boasted of having in his mind figures of the dance as numerous ‘“‘as the waves raised by a storm at sea.” Of these thousands of dance figures and musical motifs there will be born a new and powerful dramatic quality which is capable of arousing intense emotion. The acting characters should be remote, however, so that con- tact with them seems as impossible as with phan- toms; then the symphony will bring out clearly the background which properly belongs to them. It is this idea which inspired certain pages of meditation in my book, I/ Fuoco. I believe that music can interpret the essence of any phenomena in the universe. The formation, the direction, the development of musical motifs are factors in the creation of great drama, and the drama no matter how cleverly represented by actors and dancers cannot be fully understood without the help of music properly composed for the purpose.

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The burning of the Roman fleet by sun mirrors, the invention of Archimedes. The strophe in its early stages was an accompani- ment for a series of bodily movements, forming an animated picture, to which the cadence of the ode communicated rhythm. And in this new form of drama, which we are discussing, the poet must con- trive to adjust speech, gesticulation and symphony to one harmonious whole. That is the problem which today puzzles more than one artist, and baffles me, too. In our investigation we must remember that the musical concept loses its primitive purity when it becomes dependent upon representa- tions which are “extraneous” in them- selves to the spirit of music. We must also remember that sentiments, passions, places, persons, costumes, and other acces- sories are nothing more (for the poet) than signs to Karthalo, the High Priest of Moloch. Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 interpret. and we must remember that these signs have no meaning except in their relation to each other and to the whole. Art departs from Nature that it may create new types of beauty. By the side of the Athenian Acropolis, which overlooks the theatre of Dionysius, is a wall of sub- lime simplicity. Its virgin surface seems prepared for the film masterpiece of tomorrow. I have it constantly in my mind. Karthalo before Queen Sophonisba. And now, let us further consider cine- matography asa means of liberation, an art, as profound and vibrant as silence. A few years ago at Milan, attracted by the invention, I spent many hours in the factory where the picture films are made, for the purpose of studying the technique and mechanics of the process, in order to learn the “tricks of the trade.” I was convinced then that the cinematograph would make possible a pleasing and wonderful art. I thought of Ovid’s “Metamorphoses.” Here was a true moving picture sub- ject. Technically, f found there was no limit to the representation of won- der and fancy. I decided to experi- ment with the fable of Daphne. I took as my subject an arm, the arm which begins to leaf out from the tips of the fingers until it is changed into a thick branch of laurel. [I still 20 Elissa (Cabiria) remember the enthusiasm I felt as the experiment progressed. The re- sult was marvelous. The wonder of it: Motionless in sculpture and in paintings, on the screen the miracle is accomplished before my amazed eyes. The supernatural represented in palpitating reality. . . . But my experiment w To overcome the obstz my way, a patience and persistence was required which the result did not justify. For every time I attempted something unusual the manufacturers opposed me and quoted the execrable phrase “not what the public wants.” And it is quite true that ‘public taste is keeping the moving picture on a rather low plane. But a firm in Turin, managed by a cultured and energetic man who has an extraordinarily plastic instinct, has had the courage to try out a sketch of historical romance which I furnished them. A tremendous amount of effort and culture and creative ability was needed to stage in the atmos- phere of the third century before Christ the most tragic spectacle that the struggle of races has given to the world. The events and heroes of that time seem to have been created and impelled by an unquenchable fire. The breath of war had in- flamed the nations which Rome was endeavouring to mould to her own image. Adverse fortune comes to Rome with the threatened invasion of Hannibal “born in all arms,” and serves to strengthen the

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The eruption of Mount Etna which destroyed the home of Batto, the father of Cabiria. Maciste, the slave of Fulvius Axilla. Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 determination of the Romans. Peace, which was eventually established over the entire Mediterranean, is still an empty word even in the mouth of Quintus Fabius. Like his own coarse toga, the soul of Rome is puffed up with hostile and dominating will power. No ordinary force can cope with the fury of hatred which is hurled at Rome by this barbarian, in whom the violent impulses of the Italic Mars are mingled with the intense domesticity of the Oriental Vesta. Maciste intimidates the winekeeper, Bodastoret. Here is the supreme conflict of two antagonistic races led on by the genius of fire “‘subduing every- thing, devouring everything, powerful sire of every- thing; eternal artisan.” Hence the innocent creature which passes unharmed through the ordeal is called Cabiria, a name that symbolizes Vulcanic demons, flaming, unseen workmen, who forge unceasingly. Hence, here is the vision of the alluring island which the hands of the Doric people embellished with sublime grandeur. The mountain which was the mystic sepulchre of Empedocles signifies the original rhythm of life and death, of creation and destruction, of splendour and darkness. In this period, we see prodigious persons, extra- ordinary fortunes, sudden ruin. Virtue of man appears perfect since the Macedonian has overcome Hercules and Bacchus, demigod and god. Power proceeds by gigantic leaps, warlike and divine, not touching earth except to increase its impetus. The sentence of Pyrrhus “of the helmet adorned with ram’s horns’”’ comes from the oracle, “‘To whom shall 21 Hannibal. be the inheritance? To the sword which shall best pierce, which shall best cut.” Hence, to the short, broad, sharpened sword of Rome. And behold, here is accomplished that which was never before seen on earth, of which we find no record in the annals of the human race: a great state collapsing at one stroke, with its monstrous idols, with its virtues old and new, with its sadness and its greed, with its impatient will to rule, with its mania for inglorious adventure. It falls like a meteor, leaving nothing but a little smoke, a handful of ashes, a few rusty coins, some verses of Plautus; nothing else remains of the vast and atrocious Carthaginian world. But not so easily forgotten were the little children sacrificed in the bronze bowels of the insatiable god—Moloch. “ Now who sings of the Punic wars?” says the last epigram of the Anacreontic school. The flute of Pan. And only the sparks of the flame of untamed Eros now crackle in the wake of the happy ship. It is, as one can see, a vast canvas. I think that no greater has ever been attempted, or one which has been worked out with greater accuracy of detail, with more respect for archeology and for historical character, with greater harmony of movement and grouping. The producing house has (Continued on page 72)

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Translated by THE STORY Juliette Drouet, for fifty years Victor Hugo’s mis- tress and source of greatest inspiration, was born of humble parentage in 1806 and received her early train- ing in a convent. Alt sixteen she entered the artist world of Paris, posing at first in the studio of James Pradier, the sculptor, and later, in 1825, becoming his mistress. The next year their daughter Claire was born. Juliette’s subsequent life as an actress under Felix Harel was the usual one of her time. In 1832 she met Victor Hugo at an artistes’ ball. Immediately struck with her beauty and spirit, he gave her a part in his new play, ** Lucrece Borgia,” and soon afterward their liaison was established. Their happiness was complete for a time, until in 1833, Juliette’s extreme financial difficulties became overwhelming and with Hugo’s bitter condemnation ringing in her ears, she left Paris for St. Renan where her sister was living. APPILY Juliette traveled by the Rennes diligence and there were many halts on the way. From the very first of these she sent an adoring letter to the poet. She wrote again from Rennes, from Brest once more, and lastly from St. Renan. 2.30 p. m., Monday (1834), Rennes. My dear Victor: I am writing this letter on the chance of its reaching you, but in the mournful apprehension that you may never read it. My beloved, I love you more than ever. I cannot do without you. I would willingly die for you, but I cannot consent to accept a devo- tion which might endanger your health and your life. I was forced to fly from you. It cost me much to resist your supplications and your wrathful glances. I suffered frightfully, and now alas I know that were you with me I could no longer withstand either your gentle pleading or your terrible anger. I am very wretched. I love and bless you. Be happy! Juliette. One portion of your curse has already come to pass. My soul and body have suffered severely. In addition, I have been harried to death by the idiotic authorities who are suspicious of every woman without a passport. I have been at Rennes about half an hour. It is half past two. I leave again for Brest tomorrow morning at four o'clock; I expect to arrive on Thursday at five in the evening. My Victor, I love you. I could do anything for you. Have pity upon me. I love you better than anything in life. Victor Hugo responded with expressions of poign- ant regret and remorse, according to those who have read them. He promised to do his very best to find the few necessary bank notes to satisfy the big- gest creditors. In the end he set out for Rennes himself and rejoined his friend. The lovers re- turned to Paris on the roth of August. Now commences the most singular period of the life of Juliette, one which has been well entitled an “amorous redemption after the romantic manner.” For nearly two years, Victor Hugo, taking his mis- tress as the subject of his experiment, put into prac- tice the theories, in part religious and in part philo- sophical, which he professed concerning courtesans: namely, the expiation of faults by faithful, passion- ate, disinterested love; love itself being considered Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 to me. heart to beat.” as a species of sesame, capable of opening wide the doors of science and throwing light upon all hidden things. The first condition of redemption was poverty voluntarily, almost joyously accepted. The furni- ture of the Rue de |’Echiquier must be sold, and the beautiful rooms given up. A tiny apartment con- sisting of two rooms and a kitchen was taken for Juliette at No. 4, Rue du Paradis au Marais at a yearly rental of four hundred francs. There she shivered through the winter and spent part of her days in bed to economize her fuel, but at least she proved that she loved truly and was deserving of love. For the last ten years, that is, practically ever since her marriage, Madame Victor Hugo had be- haved in such a manner that when the day came on which she and his best friend betrayed him, the poet was able to remember her with contempt. Although fairly gifted in appearance, she possessed neither taste nor cleverness in the matter of dress; she had always shown herself to him in careless attire and un- fashionable gowns. Absent-minded and limited in intelligence, she remained uncultured and oblivious of the genius of her husband and of his achieve- ments of which she appreciated only the financial value. It was of this woman that Juliette wrote: (1834) 3 a. m. For my Victor: While I was expecting to see you I could not sleep. Now that the hope is dead I still cannot sleep because I am unhappy. I grieve not to have seen you; I grieve because I was cross and ill-tempered when you were gentle and charm- ing. I rehearse in imagination all the incidents of the evening and the pain at my heart grows unbearable. It is wicked of me to torment you, yet I cannot help myself. My offence goes by the name of “jealousy.””. Much as I dread dis- pleasing you I yet cannot avoid giving way to that hideous passion. I make you miserable when I should like to saturate you with happi- ness. Oh, it is horribly wrong of me! I am much to be pitied, for I am jealous, and of whom? The most beautiful, the most gentle, the most perfect of women - your wife! Heaven forgive me! My torment is surely suf- ficient expiation for my fault! God, how I love you! how I love my Victor! Allis contained in these words. You do forgive me, do you not? and you love me as much as ever? I hope so... else, I should prefer to die. Juliette. Victor Hugo never succeeded in making Juliette adopt his conception of love. He craved something calm, placid, regular as a time-table in its manifesta- tions; but she was wont to object: “Such a love would soon cease to exist. A fire that no longer blazes is quickly smothered in ashes. Only a love that scorches and dazzles is worthy of the name. Mine is like that.” And indeed it would not be easy to name an ob- ject that this woman did not cast into the crucible of her passion between the years 1834 and 1851. Everything was sacrificed, comfort, vanity, renown, talent, liberty. Then she turned to her poet. She adopted his tastes, his ambitions, his dreams for the future; she shared his joys and sorrows; she exag- gerated his qualities, and sometimes even his faults. She lived only in him and for him. 22 The Love Affair of Victor Juliette Drouet Victor Hugo, the great poet, loves a princess of the theater. He forces her to abandon the stage and the green-room, to relinquish the hollow flattery of society and the town; he cloisters her with one servant, two or three of his portraits, and as many books, in an apartment a few yards square. When she complains of having nothing to do but wait for him, he replies: “‘ Write Write me everything that comes into your head, everything that causes your Such is the origin of the love letters of Juliette Drouet, the corres- pondence of a loyal, loving woman to a great genius, extending over a period of fifty years, and revealing one of the most interesting love affairs history has ever produced. Hugo and Told in the Recently Discovered Letters written by Mdlle. Drouet to the Great French Author He is jealous. LADY THEODORA DAVIDSON (1835). It is long after 11 o’clock. I am no longer expecting you fora walk, but I do still hope to see you this evening. I write you these few lines as an apology for the disappointment I feel each time you fail me. am miserable, but not angry, I shed tears but do not reproach you. I am often much to be pitied, but I never cease loving you to distraction. If only you could be- lieve this I think I could bear my invidious posi- tion with more resignation. I am afraid you misapprehend my love, and this anxiety often makes the days seem long and sad. But I must not forget that you are working and worn out and that you have neither strength nor leisure to listen, that is to say, to read, of my worries. 11.30 p.m. Here youare! Iam finishing this letter more untidily even than usual. Luckily one’s char- acter, and more important still, one’s heart, are not exclusively interpreted by one’s hand- writing. Juliette. Midnight, Tuesday, 28th April, 1835. An hour after the triumph of Angélo. My cup is full. Bravo! bravo!! bravo!!! bravo!!!! bravo!!!!! For the first time I have been able to applaud you as much as I wished, for you were not there to prevent it. Thank you, my beloved! Thank you for myself, whose happiness you increase with every second of my. life, and thank you also for the crowd that was there, admiring, listening, and appreciating you. I saw and heard everything, and will tell you all about it, although if the applause, enthus- iasm, and delirium could be measured by sheer weight, my load would indeed be heavy. I will give you full details of the performance tomor- row for I dare not hope to see you tonight; it would be too much happiness for one day and you do not want me to go mad with joy! Till tomorrow, then. If you knew how con- scientiously I clapped Madame Dorval, you would hesitate to say or do anything to add to the soreness I already feel at the thought that another than I has been selected to interpret your noble sentiments. There, now I am giv- ing way to sadness again, because you are with that woman! Good-night, my beloved. Sleep well, my poet, if the sound of the great chorus of praise does not prevent it. To your laurels I add my tender caresses and thousands of kisses. Juliette. When he had completed a program for Juliette’s daily life, the poet experienced an overpowering need to find himself alone somewhere with the woman he had finally subjugated. His mind was still quite Virgilian. He had not yet arrived at confusing duty with politics and happiness with popularity. His greatest enjoyment next to love was in rural pursuits, and for the indulgence of these he flattered himself he had discovered in Juli- ette a companion worthy of himself. The lovers had barely settled in the Rue du Paradis au Marais before they went off to the Valley of Biévres. Half mystics, half pagans, worshipping equally at the shrines of the forest divinities and those of the vil- lage churches, they entered upon the consummation

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Victor Hugo about 1836, from a portrait by Louis Boulanger of what they themselves called their “marriage of escaped birds.” The little house they took at Metz consisted only of a ground-floor and an attic; a rambling vine covers its walls; around it are scattered a barn, some outhouses, and an orchard, whose steep sides slope downwards to a gate opening on to the Jouy road. With the assistance of the landlady, Mére Labus- siére, as she calls her, Juliette undertook to perform the lighter tasks of housekeeping in the mornings, and it was understood that Victor Hugo should visit her every afternoon unless some grave impediment prevented him. But the walk from Les Roches to Les Metz was long; not much under two miles, by rough roads. The lovers agreed therefore to meet half-way by a path settled beforehand and to abandon the La- bussiére rooftree for some leafy bower. Thus be- gan, as Juliette writes, their “‘ bird life in the woods.” Clad in a dress of white jaconet striped with pink, such as she usually affected, her head covered with an Italian straw hat, left over from the days of her former grandeur, with swelling bosom, rosy cheeks, and smiling mouth, Juliette would wait for her lover in the hollow of a hundred-year-old chestnut- tree. At the first sign of the approach of Victor Hugo, she would fly to him and afford him one more opportunity of admiring the far-famed aérial gait, that fairy footstep, so light that it had been com- pared to the sound of a lyre. Then followed kisses, caresses, a flood of soft words, more kisses, and a rapid rush into the cool green depths whither the twitter of birds invited them. When they issued forth again, silent now, Juliette walked first, making it a point of honour to push aside the branches and thorns before her poet; and he was content, gazing upon the tiny traces left upon the moss or sand by the feet that looked almost absurd by reason of their minuteness. The chestnut-tree served them as a letter-box as well as a shelter. According to an arrangement be- tween them, the first thing they did on arrival was to deposit within its friendly shade everything they had written in the course of the preceding day for, or about, one another. On Juliette’s part es- pecially, the letters became more and more numer- ous: two, four, sometimes six per day. She no longer wrote, as at first, to expatiate upon her pas- Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 The house at Metz Below: Claire Pradier, Juliette’s daughter 23 Juliette Drowet about 1830, from a portrait by Champmartin sion or assure the poet that she loved him with real love, or to relieve boredom and make the hours of her solitude pass more quickly. She wrote because Victor Hugo, who had formerly been indifferent to her “scribbles,” now exacted them as a daily-tribute and reproached her if they were too hyef or not nu- merous enough. 8.15 a. m:, Thursday, September 17th, 1835. At Metz. Good morning, my Toto, good morning. Itis magnificently fine and we shall be enormously happy. We are going to resume our bird life, our life of love and freedom in the woods. I amenchanted. If only you were here, I should kiss you with all my might and main, as a re- minder. What sort of a night did you have? Did you love me? Have you been writing to me under the old chestnut-tree? Iam sure you have not. You scamp, I am afraid I go on loving you in proportion to the decrease of your own affection. I was not able to read late last night. I went to bed at a quarter past ten and had horrid dreams. I trust they will not come true, but I confess I should be glad to get news of my poor little girl whom we neglect far too much. If two more days go by without a letter I shall write to Sau- mur, for I am really worried about her. My dear little Toto, I am going to dress now so as to get to you earlier. I love you, I love you with all my strength and all my soul. I kiss you! lLadore you! Till this afternoon. Your Juliette. 8.45 a. m., Thursday, September 24th. At Metz. Good morning, my darling Victor. I love you and am happy for we are going to be more absolutely together than was possible yesterday or the day before, when an inconvenient third disturbed our privacy; also the weather is glor- ious and I am madly in love with you, so every- thing around me glows radiant and beautiful. I stayed in bed until 8.30, although I woke up at seven o’clock; but I just rolled lazily about (Continued on page 70)

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Long neglected ‘ane ear) = **E! Dorado,’’ Interior ITH the growing demand for old fur- niture, ornament, and design, there has developed a distinct apprecia- tion of old wall papers. In fact, never since their original production has there been such an insistent call for the wonderful old designs, so long relegated to disuse. Considering that wall paper as a feature of deco- ration has become so much a part of our every- day life, it is remarkable that so little has been written about it and its origin. In a vague way, a somewhat general understanding of the conditions of wall paper productions exists together with a well defined idea of the prevailing fashion. But beyond the vogue of the moment there is much oncerning the history and the making of hand-made papers, that is worth considering—in fact is neces- sary, in order to properly understand and appreciate the old patterns that are gradually returning to favor and are being duplicated today. \s the natural impulse of man has always led him to decorate and cover the walls of his home, be it tent or house—first, with animal skins and sculp tured decoration, then with wall linings of tiles or thin pieces of marble, which reached their perfection in the art of the Persians; and later with stucco re- liefs followed by the famous embossed leather of Italy and Spain highly decorated with painted and gilded designs and tapestries—it can be understood how readily the Arabs adopted a less expensive wall cov- ering from the Chinese, who first discovered how to make paper, and how it spread from those first Chi- nese prisoners in Arabia throughout Europe and northern Africa. While the origin of paper has been attributed to Japan, Egypt and Persia, it is now generally agreed that it was China that first pro- duced it. Blanchet, the well known French au- thority, says that paper was invented in China by Tsai Loon. Several centuries later in the conquest of Turkestan by the Arabs, during which they learned to manufacture paper, the Chinese cap- tives brought the art to Samarcand, from which place it spread rapidly to other parts of the Arabian empire. Damascus was one of the first places to Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 a popular of the private reproduction of a dining room of receive it, and hence the term “‘Charta Damascéna” as it was called during the Middle Ages. The first paper made in Europe was produced by the Moors in Spain. The common belief that Arabian and early European papers were made of cotton is a mis- take, as there has never been any paper made of raw cotton, and cotton paper is exceptional. In 1145, when the troops of Ab del Mounin were about to attack the capital of Fez, the inhabitants covered the vault of the mihrab of the Mosque (a vaulted niche or alcove in which the altar stands) with paper and put upon this a coating of plaster in order to preserve from destruction the fine carvings which still exist. This is probably the earliest known ap- proach to the use of wall paper. 24 handmade wall the Salem Club, paper of tropical design, Mass. Salem, consisting of designs twenty ‘*‘Isola Bella,’’ a tropical design As its manufacture extended it is said to have been used as a substitute for tapestry, covering the damp walls of palaces as well as ornamenting them. It was not then attached to the walls as now but—as in France, where during its introduction, owing to its cost and rarity, it was made only for royal use— it took the form of scrolls held by carved figures of angels and was movable. France, although she had for many centuries many paper manufactures of her own, did not begin to import the Chinese papers with their popular designs and Indian patterns until about the middle of the eighteenth century, when wall paper came into common use _ throughout Europe. By the end of this century it was being printed in long rolls, but previous to that time

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panels, thirty feet = long and twelve feet high, This €ighteen panels in natural colours. the design was printed on small square pieces of paper in imitation of Spanish leather. It was in this form that it reached America, at the time of its first introduction here about 1735. About 1790 it was brought over in rolls. The Japanese papers, which are used extensively for screens, wall cover- ings and the division of rooms, are still made as they always have been in small pieces, somewhat longer than they are broad. It is this fact that sustains some authorities in the theory that the idea of wall paper was first obtained from Japan, as the first papers made in Holland and introduced into England and France were printed in these small pieces in im- itation of the Japanese, some three feet long by fif- teen inches wide, some smaller. These were Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 scenic wall printed from papers s, 2h 6 Ne thousand blocks by J. two COURTESY OF COWARD CRAIG ROBERTS printed by hand from wooden blocks with the de- sign cut in relief, one for each colour. It some- times required many hundreds to produce a paper or series of panels comprising one subject, as for ex- ample in the El Dorado, made by the Zubers who were established in Alsace as wall paper manufac- turers as early as 1797 and are one of the oldest wall paper firms in existence. This rarely beautiful ex- ample of brilliantly coloured scenic wall paper, pop- ular during the early nineteenth century and which still hangs in some of the old houses throughout New England, can be obtained today, printed from the original blocks. Such papers vary from $100.00 to $175.00 a set and are never sold in individual panels. 25 ELIZABETH LOUNSBERY U a3 Mm sr COURTESY OF A. L. DIAMENT & CO Zuber & Co. paper is in the house at 40 Beacon Street, Boston. recently purchased by the Woman's Club. The El Dorado consists of twenty panels, thirty feet long and twelve feet high, six feet of which con- sist of skyline, which can be readily cut off to adapt the paper to the height of the wall space. It was designed by the Alsatian artists Ehrmann and Zipelius and was printed from about two thousand blocks. In the production as well as in the reproduction of the old wall papers, the means of printing on wooden blocks or forms is an interesting feature. These blocks are of wood, similar to those used in printing the first books and wood cuts. The de- sign is cut in relief, one block for each colour, and is applied by hand after being dipped in an elastic cloth sieve charged with tempera pigment, great care being taken to lay each block exactly on the right place so that the various colours may “regis- ter” or fit together. These blocks are made 21 inches wide in England and in France 18 inches, the length being influenced by the limit of weight a workman can easily lift, as the blocks are necessarily thick and are sometimes reinforced with copper to add to their weight. While the block is nominally made of wood, the thin outlines are usually pro- tected by fine linings of copper or brass to withstand the necessary rough usage in printing. The machine made papers, while much cheaper, lack the solidity of colour and even surface of the hand made papers, which they cannot duplicate. This is readily explained by the process of manu- facture. The paper is printed from designs out- lined in small brass teeth on wooden rollers which pass over the paper and apply the colours rapidly one after the other without the proper time to dry. A more or less blurred effect is the result. Many of the old papers were painted by hand without the aid of blocks, like the Chinese paper, but these are so rare that they are more a curiosity than a commodity and for general use today would be of little value. However, the enthusiast, who has found a scrap of paper which pleases his fancy, can, if not deterred by the cost, readily have it reproduced today—for possibly $5.00 to $10.00 a roll.

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‘‘The back is the best part of the goose.”’ Harper's Basar, September, 1914 20

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The Smiling Arab:

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° DRAWING BY NELL BRINKLEY. ‘*Thy woman is a half-moon in the way of her body — mine carries a star on her head and spills naught of its powdered light.’ The By Well Posture GE R-F 2 UD. &.. Bartt Giri COLB.¥ Because there are fashions in posture as there are in other things, the modern girl has been much criticised tor her lack of grace. Miss Colby in this instalment of “‘The Well Built Girl” discusses the whole matter from the standpoint of health and makes a vigorous protest against the slouching, crouching pose affected T seems rather absurd, but it is nevertheless true that there are fashions in posture and there is a good deal of truth in the story of the girl who said to her sister, “Quick, speak to Mamma! She is standing ‘last year.’”” Ata vaudeville perform- ance a short time ago, I heard a very clever imi- tator say, ‘‘Girls, do you remember when we stood like this?””—and a plumb-line from her chest would have fallen at least a foot in front of her toes. “ Then she quickly changed and the same line dropped from her shoulders would have been far astern. ‘‘Now we walk like this,” she said.. “I’m dying to stand up straight but it isn’t stylish.” And so it goes. It is hard to trace the origin of these vagaries. Some actress or well known woman falls into a pose which is becoming and brings out the lines of her costume and figure to good effect. It is copied and that chance posture sweeps the world of fashion like wild-fire. The present day craze for sinuous grace and the resulting “débutante slouch” is pernicious, both physically and psychically. The beauty of the Greek figures from which its origin is claimed lies in perfectly poised, systematically developed bodies. The pose caught by the artist was only one of many equally beautiful and the relaxed positions were the abandon of perfect strength, not the slump of weak, undeveloped bodies. I have seen a few women, with well poised heads, well developed chests and straight, symmetrical Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 by the girl of today. backs, fall into truly Grecian poses, which were a joy to the eye. I have also seen many, many girls and young women, who have not reached their com- plete development, standing with heads and shoul- ders forward, chests in, hips (what little we are al- lowed to have nowadays) forward, knees bent and the weight on one foot, with the other trailing like a piece of drapery. It would be bad enough if each leg were given a turn but she has learned only one pose and that is worked overtime. It is a cheap, poorly done imitation of a beautiful art. The difference in relaxation between strength and weakness is worth considering. In the first we relax for the sake of rest; in the last, because we have not the strength to hold on. It is a well-known psychological fact that our physical attitudes affect our mental attitude. When Rosalind, in her unaccustomed boys’ attire, said, “And in our hearts Let lie what hidden woman’s fear there will, We'll have a swashing and a martial outside,’ she was undoubtedly girding herself with courage to meet the unknown terrors of the Forest of Arden. A danger either physical or ethical, which we meet squarely eye to eye, loses half its force. So, too, a weak, relaxed physical attitude has its effect upon moral conditions. Ina recent talk, a physician in New York City, who a= =i is also a keen psychologist, said, ‘The relaxed knees and general carriage of the day, the weakened moral fiber, with the growing social unconventionality, the frenzy and abandon of the modern dances, and the immodesty of the clothing of the women of today are all of a piece. I am not sure which is cause and which the effect but I do know that the trend is dis- tinctly downward.” So much for the psychical effect of standing and posing “this year.” Now just what is physically correct posture? The upright position is characteristic of man and is maintained by the pull of antagonistic groups of muscl2s. The logical position is that in which the body is so well balanced that there is a minimum of work for each muscle group. If in standing with feet together, a line from the ear passes downward through shoulder, hip-bone and the arch of the foot, we may conclude that the body is poised over the center of gravity and can keep its balance with the least expenditure of energy. The grace and strength of proper carriage is largely dependent on the erect- ness, suppleness and strength of the spinal column. This backbone is made up of twenty-four separate bones called vertebrae. Each vertebra consists of a body or solid piece of bone and an arch with three bony projections, the central one of which, (the spinous process) may easily be felt under the skin down the middle of the back. These vertebrae are (Continued on page 74)

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HILARY. JAFFERY, ADRIAN, DORIA AND BARBARA ARBARA having freed Jaffery from imme- diate anxieties with regard to Liosha, easily persuaded him to pay a longer visit than he had proposed. A telephonic conversation with a first distracted, then conscience- smitten and then much relieved Euphe- mia had for effect the payment of bills at the Savoy and the retreat of the gentle lady to Tunbridge Wells. Liosha remained with us, pending certain negotiations darkly carried on by my wife and Doria in concert. During this time I had some oppor- tunity of observing her from a more philosophic standpoint and my judgment was—I will not say formed—but aided by Barbara’s confidential rev- elations. When not directly thwarted, she seemed to be good-natured. She took to Susan—a good sign; and Susan took to her—a better. Finding that her idea of happiness was to sprawl about the garden and let the child run over her and inveigle her into childish games and call her “ Loshie”’ (a disrespectful mode of address which I had all tae pains in the world in persuading Barbara to per- mit) and generally treat her as an animate instru- ment of entertainment, we smoothed down every obstacle that might lie in this particular path to beatitude. So many difficulties were solved. Not only were we spared the problem of what the deuce to do with Liosha during the daytime, but also Barbara was able to send the nurse away for a short and much needed holiday. Of course Barbara her- self undertook all practical duties; but when she discovered that Liosha experienced primitive de- light in bathing Susan—Susan’s bath being a hea- then rite in which ducks and fish and swimming women and horrible spiders played orgiac parts, and in getting up at seven in the morning—(‘‘ Good God! Is there such an hour?” asked Adrian, when he heard about it)—in order to breakfast with Susan, and in dressing and undressing her and brush- ing her hair, and in tramping for miles by her side while with Basset, her vassal, in attendance, Susan rode out on her pony; when Barbara, in short, be- came aware of this useful infatuation, she pandered to it, somewhat shamelessly, all the time, however, keeping an acute eye on the zealous amateur. If, for instance, Liosha had picked a bushel of nectar- ines and had established herself with Susan, in the corner of the fruit garden, for a debauch, which would have had, for consequence, a child’s funeral, by some magic of motherhood, Barbara sprang from the earth in front of them with her funny little smile and her “Only one—and a very ripe one—for Susan, dear Liosha.” And in these mat- ters Liosha was as much overawed by Barbara as was Susan. This, I repeat, was a good sign in Liosha. I don’t say that she would have fallen captive to any or- dinary child, but Susan being my child was natur- ally different from the vulgar run of children. She was rarissima avis in the lands of small girls—one of the few points on which Barbara and I are in un- clouded agreement. No one could have helped falling captive to Susan. But, I admit, in the case of Liosha, who was an out-of-the-way, incalculable sort of creature—it was a good sign. Perhaps, con- sidering the short period during which I had her under close observation, it was the best sign. She had grievous faults. One evening, while I was dressing for dinner, Bar- bara burst into my dressing-room. “Reynolds has given me notice.’ “Oh,” said I, not desisting (as is the callous way Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 5] AP Fw ee. By William J. THE STORY—Hilary Freeth and his wife Barbara, at their country home near London, hear, one morning, of the marvelous success of a new novel written by their friend, Adrian Boldero. Adrian and his fiancée, Doria Jellicoe, come to visit them and a fifth is added to the party by the arrival of Jaffery Chayne, the war correspondent. Jaffery is just back from the wilds of Albania where the sudden death of a friend has left him encumbered with the care of the widow, Liosha, a native Albanian. To the consternation of every one, she suddenly arrives at Northlands, interrupting the house party. In a fit of barbaric rage she has left Jaffery’s maiden sister with whom she had been installed at London and followed her guardian to the country. The sad story of her life rouses the pity of everyone and plans are made for her future. Meantime Jaffery has fallen hope- lessly in love with Doria. of husbands the world over) from the absorbing and delicate manipulation of my tie. ‘What for?” “Liosha has just gone for her with a pair of scissors.” “Horrible!” said I, getting the ends even. “I can imagine nothing more finnikin in ghastliness than to cut anybody’s throat, with nail scissors, especially when the subject is unwilling.” Barbara pished and pshawed. It was no occa- sion for levity. “T agree,” said I. The dressing hour is the calm- est and most philosophic period of the day. Barbara came up to me blue eyed and innocent, and, with a traitorous jerk, undid my beautiful white bow. “There, now listen.” And I, dilapidated wretch, had to listen to the tale of crime. It appeared that Reynolds, my wife’s maid, in putting Liosha into a ready-made gown— a model gown I believe is the correct term—insisted on her being properly corsetted. Liosha agonis- ingly constricted, rebelled. The maid was obdurate. Liosha flew at her with a pair of scissors. I think I should have done the same. Reynolds bolted from the room. So should I have done. I sympa- thised with both of them. Reynolds fled to her mistress, and, declaring it to be no part of her duty to wait on tigers, gave notice. “We can’t lose Reynolds,” said I. “Of course we can’t.” “And we can’t pack Licsha off at a moment’s notice, so as to please Reynolds.” “Oh, you’re too wise altogether,” said my wife, and left me to the tranquil completion of my dressing. Liosha came down to dinner very subdued, after a short, sharp interview with Barbara, who, for so small a person, can put on a prodigious air of author- ity. As a punishment for bloodthirsty behaviour she had made her wear the gown in the manner pre- scribed by Reynolds; and she had apologised to Reynolds, who thereupon withdrew her notice. So serenity again prevailed. ” Liosha and the postman In some respects Liosha was very childish. The receipt of letters, no matter from whom—even bills, receipts and circulars—gave her overwhelming joy and sense of importance. This harmless craze, however, led to another outburst of ferocity. Meet- ing the postman outside the gate she demanded a letter. The man looked through his bundle. “Nothing for you this morning, ma’am.” “T wrote to the dressmaker yesterday,” said Liosha, “‘and you’ve got the reply right there.” “‘T assure you I haven’t,” said the postman. “You’re a liar,”’ cried Liosha, “‘and I guess I’m going to see.”’ Whereupon Liosha, who was as strong as a young horse, sprang to death-grapple with the postman, a puny little man, pitched him onto the side of the road and calmly entered into felonious possession of His Majesty’s mails. Then finding no letter she cast the whole delivery over the supine and gasping post- man and marched contemptuously into the house. The most astonishing part of the business was that in these outbreaks of barbarity she did not seem to be impelled by blind rage. Most people who heaved a postman about a peaceful county would do so in a fit of passion, through loss of nerve- control. Not so Liosha. She did these things with the bland and deadly air of an inexorable Fate. 28 Locke LIOSHA, PRESCOTT AND JAFFERY The perspiration still beads on my brow when I think of the cajoling and bribing and blustering and lying I had to practise in order to hush up the mat- ter. As for Liosha, both Jaffery and I rated her soundly. I explained loftily that not so many years ago, transportation, lifelong imprisonment, death were the penalties for the felony which she had committed. “You ought to have a jolly good thrashing,” roared Jaffery. At this Liosha, who had endured our abuse with the downcast eyes of angelic meekness, took a golf- club from a bag lying on the hall table and handed it to the red-bearded giant. “T guess I do,” she said. ‘“‘ Beat me.” And, as I am a living man, I swear that if Jaffery had taken her at her word and laid on lustily she would have taken her thrashing without a murmur. What was one to do with such a woman? Jaffery, considerably disconcerted, fingered the cleek. Gradually she raised her glorious eyes to him, and in them I was startled to see the most ex- traordinary doglike submission. He frowned por- tentously and shook his head. Her lips worked, and after a convuisive sob or two, she threw her- self on the ground, clasped his knees, and to our dismay burst into a passion of weeping. Barbara, rushing into the hall at this juncture, like a fairy tornado, released us from our embarrassing position. She annihilated us with a sweeping glance of scorn. “Oh, go away, both of you, go away!” So we went away and left her to deal with Liosha. Save for such little excursions and alarms the days passed very pleasantly. Jaffery spent most of the sweltering hours of daylight (it was a blazing summer) in playing golf on the local course. Adrian and Doria trod the path of the perfect lovers, while I, to justify my position as President of the Hafiz Society, worked hard at a Persian Grammar. Bar- bara, the never idle, was in the meantime arranging for Liosha’s future. Her organising genius had brought Doria’s suggestion as to the First Class London Boarding House into the sphere of practi- cal things. The Boarding House idea alone would not work; but, combine it with Mrs. Considine, and the scheme ran on wheels. “Even you,” said Barbara, as though I were a sort of Schopenhauer, a professional disparager of her sex —‘even you have a high opinion of Mrs. Considine.” I had. Every one had a high opinion of Mrs. Considine. She was not very beautiful or very clever or very fascinating or very angelic or very anything—but she was one of those women of whom everybody has a high opinion. The impoverished widow of an Indian soldierman, with a son soldier- ing somewhere in India, she managed to do a great deal on very small means. She was a woman of the world, a woman of character. She knew how to deal with people of queer races. Heaven indicated her for appointment by Barbara as Liosha’s duenna in the Boarding House. Mrs. Considine, herself compelled to live in these homes for the homeless, gladly accepted the proposal, came down, inter- viewed her charge, who happened then to be in a mood of meekness indescribable, and went away, so to speak, with her contract in her pocket. It was part of the programme that Mrs. Considine should tactfully carry on Liosha’s education, which had been arrested at the age of twelve, instil into her a sense of Western decorum, extend her acquaintance, and gradually root out of her heart the yearning to do her enemies to death. It was a capital pro-

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' ar te 4 Sas : eee *‘*Jaffery, considerably disconcerted, fingered the cleek.’’ gramme; and I gave it the benediction of a smile, in which, seeing Barbara’s shrewd blue eyes fixed on me, I suppressed the irony. When this was all settled Jaffery proclaimed him- self the most care-free fellow alive. His hitherto grumpy and resentful attitude towards Liosha changed. He established himself as fellow slave with her under the whip of Susan’s tyranny. It did one good to see these two magnificent creatures sporting together for the child’s, and incidentally their own, amusement. For the first time during their intercourse they met on the same plane. “‘She’s really quite a good sort,”’ said Jaffery. But if it was pleasant to see him with Liosha, it was still more touching to watch his protective at- titude towards Doria. He seemed so anxious to do her service, so deferential to her views, so puzzle- headedly eager to reconcile them with his own. She took upon herself to read him little lectures. “Don’t you think you’re rather wasting your life?’’ she asked him one day. “Do you think I am?” “Fea” “Oh! But I work hard at my job, you know,” he said apologetically—‘“ when there’s one for me to do. And when there isn’t I kind of prepare myself for the next. For instance I’ve got to keep myself al- ways fit.” “But that’s all physical and outside.” She smiled, in her little superior way. ‘It’s the inside, the personal, the essential self that matters. Life, properly understood, is a process of self-development. If a human being is the same at the end of a year as he was at the beginning he has made no spiritual progress.” Jaffery pulled his red beard. hasn’t lived,” said he. “Precisely.” “And you think that I’m just the same sort of old animal from one year’s end to another and that Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 “In other words, he I don’t progress worth a cent, and so, that I don’t live.” “T don’t want to say quite that,’ she replied graciously. “Every one must advance a little bit unless they deteriorate. But the conscious striving after spiritual progress is so necessary—and you seem to put it aside. It is such waste of life.” “T suppose it is, in a way,” Jaffery admitted. She pursued the theme, a flattered Egeria. ‘You see—well, what do you do? You travel about in out-of-the-way places and make notes about them in case the knowledge may be useful to you in the future. When you come across anything to kill, you kill it. It also pleases you to come across any- thing that calls for an exercise of strength. When there is a war or a revolution or anything that takes you to your real work, as you call it, you’ve only got to go through it and report what you see.” “But that’s just the difficulty,” cried Jaffery. “It isn’t every chap that’s tough enough to come out rosy at the end of a campaign. And it isn’t every chap that can see the things he ought to write about. That’s where the training comes in.” Again she smiled. “I’ve no idea of belittling your profession, my dear Jaffery. I think it’s a noble one. But should it be the Alpha and Omega of things? Don’t you see? The real life is intel- lectual, spiritual, emotional. What are your ideals?” Jaffery looked at her ruefully. Beneath those dark pools of eyes lay the spirituality that made her a mystery so sacred. He, great hulking fellow, was a gross lump of clay. Ideals? “T don’t suppose I have any,” said he. “But you must. Everybody has, to a certain extent.” “Well, to ride straight and tell the truth—like the ancient Persians, I suppose it was the Persians— anyway it’s a sort of rough code I’ve got.” “Have you read Nietzsche?”’ she asked suddenly. He frowned perplexedly. ‘‘ Nietzsche—that’s 29 ORAWING BY F, MATANIA the mad superman chap, isn’t it? No. I’ve not read a word.” “T do wish you would. You'll find him so ex- hilarating. You might possibly agree with a lot of what he says. I don’t. But he sets you think- ing.” She sketched her somewhat prim conception of the Nietzschean philosophy, and after listening to it in dumb wonder, he promised to carry out her wishes. So, when I came down to my library that evening dressed for dinner, I found him, still in morning clothes, with “Thus spake Zarathustra” on his knees, and a bewildered expression on his face. “Have you read this, Hilary?” he asked. “Yes,” said I. “Understand it?” “More or less.” “Gosh!” said he, shutting the book, “and I sup- pose Doria understands it too, or she wouldn’t have recommended it. But,’ he rose ponderously and looked down on me with serious eyes—‘‘ what the Hell is it all about?” I drew out my watch. “The five seconds that you have before rushing up-stairs to dress,” said I, “doesn’t give me adequate time to expound a phil- osophic system.” Now if Adrian or I had talked to Jaffery about soul-progression and the Will to Power and sug- gested that he was missing the essentials of life, we should have been met with bellows of rude and pro- fane derision. I don’t believe he had even roughly considered what kind of an individuality he had, still less enquired into the state of his spiritual being. But the flip of a girl he professed so much to despise came along and reduced him to a condition of help- less introspection. I cannot say that it lasted very long. Psychology and metaphysics and esthetics lay outside Jaffery’s sphere. But while seeing no harm in his own simple creed of straight-riding and (Continued on page 62)

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ay ati <naeel® rFloriline As Y dear father, who had a very happy disposition, hated any number of things. Proverbs in particular made him foam at the mouth. ‘Listen to this,” he once shouted at me. ‘It never rains but it pours.’ What amaz- ing rubbish that is! Does not everybody know that it never rains but it clears? And here is another outrage: ‘There is nothing new under the sun.’ Why, look at my system of philosophy!” Well, as for that, I think he was right and besides and quite apart from his philosophy, the cascade of novelties to which we are all of us treated, par- ticularly by the press, would dazzle the blind. Even otherwise, «nd assuming the truth of the old stu- pidity, I know of such a brilliant exception. Un- earthed among the monkey-haunted kloofs of inner Africa and not unreasonably christened the heliodor, or sungold, it is a jewel resple ndent and capricious. I would give a red pippin, I would give two pippins, if my dear father could have lived to see it. In his opinion the most beautiful stone is the opal, against which I believe there is a prejudice and for no better reason than because Scott in one of his inhuman stories wearisomely traduced it. Since then the pearl has been preferred, which shows how, excellent the average taste is, for the opal is a pearl with a soul. On the other hand, or on either hand, the heliodor is a solidified trill, a high roulade made visible. For this stone which looks like a flower on fire, is a chameleon gem, one that apparently at will becomes whatever colour it listeth. In the Rue de la Paix, where recently I made the marvel’s acquaintance, it aroused in me the sin of covetousness. Held to the sun, it ran the gamut of blues. In the shade it showed canary and coral. But artificial light may have annoyed it; it turned green. I asked the price. A fortune. I said I would look in again. For various reasons I omitted to. But the wonder of it fractured an illusion. By comparison with this new beauty, the opal is a painted Jezebel. Pearls that rhyme with girls But though the heliodor is not for me, the opal is not for everybody. The prejudice against it still persists. And yet in days even more credulous than our own, at a time when every jewel was be- lieved to possess some particular virtue, the opal was regarded as a talisman. My dear father told me that and, while he was at it, he told me also that the pearl used to be sacred to Venus because it was believed to be sovereign for ague. Venus did not, I suppose, suffer from chills and fever, but then she disseminated them very abundantly. And yet, as my dear father pointed out, there was possibly another reason. The pearl dies, as love dies, of sheer ennui. The pearl, he added, is the only jewel that does die and the only one suitable for girls, with whom by the way they rhyme, that is when both are pronounced after the delightful American fashion. On my seventeenth birthday he gave me a string of them which almost Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

Reflections On dictated to Baubles everybody thought was real. But then he was such a generous man! He refused himself nothing and never denied me the luxury of his conversation which I found very filling, particularly when I was budding into womanhood and could not tell jewels from paste. Mineral virtues and vices But he knew, he knew everything, and told of it inexhaustibly. For instance, he said that in the old days it was held that the beryl could restore to lips overkissed such freshness as they had lost. That interested me greatly. At the time I was quite taken with a youth who had such soulful eyes and who afterward became a great father with a lot of children, or was it a great grocer with a lot of shops? Though, to be sure, he may have been both. He did not stop there either—my dear father I mean. He told of the emerald that exorcised hobgoblins; of the sapphire that killed spiders; of the ruby that assuaged jealousy; of the turquoise that preserved innocence; of the amethyst that pre- vented intoxication; of some other stone that cured stomach-ache; of the opal that did all these things and more besides, and of the diamond that, in addi- tion to other qualities, induced somnambulism, which, for me, he said was to be shunned, and that I thought was so touching. It was such a superior reason for not giving me any. But his information about them was most lavish. He told me that, once regarded as a token of rank, ordinary people were forbidden to wear them. He said that in Europe there were laws on the subject and, in the Orient, frights. In India, malignant powers were attributed to them. There, unless you were somebody, those powers pursued you and even though you were somebody, there those powers were. That of course seems ridiculous. It is like be- lieving in black magic to hold that the inanimate can be malignant. And yet the officials of the British Museum know that a thing that they had, the mum- my of an Egyptian priestess, did exert, or at any rate appeared to, an influence actually baleful. The ship that brought it to England afterwards foundered. Some of the porters that carried it broke their legs, others their arms. A man who photographed the sarcophagus lost his eyesight and the photograph showed not a sarcophagus but an evil face. With the sole exception of an old lady who curtsied reverentially seven times, nobody that approached the thing escaped unharmed. Stead was writing about it when he died. Malignant jewels What is true or untrue of a mummy, may be true or false of astone. The Hill of Light, or Koh-i- nur, which a Hindu expert valued at half the daily expense of the world, has, for all its splendor, a curiously evil look and a corresponding reputation. Originally one of the eyes of a golden peacock that formed part of the throne of the Great Mogul, it became, or appeared to become, malefic. Where it gleamed empires tottered, dynasties fell. It 30 Apparently there is an almost universal belief in the good and evil properties of precious stones. However ridiculous it may seem, we can not banish the idea that some jewels bring good luck to their owners while others bring misfortune. It is this curious superstition, among other things, that the author discusses in an il- luminating article devoted large- ly to mineral virtues and vices. of Schopenhauer EDGAR SALTUS beheld, if it did not incite, every crime that can be mentioned and a few that cannot. In terror of it, its ultimate Hindu possessor bequeathed it to the shrine of Siva, a god who apparently would have none of it, for it reached England and became the property of the Crown, with, for sequence, the Sepoy mutiny and the Crimean War. The twin of this monster, the Darya-i-nur, or Sea of Light, has behind it scenes smeared with sin, dramas in which there is more horror than in Dante, more tragedy than in Aschylus and to which its influence has been ascribed. The ascription may be, and probably is, wholly fanciful. It may be all due to nothing more magical than the long arm of coincidence which spills its spells not on stones or even on mummies but mainly on stupid minds. The Romanoff demon A breath of that witchery may have tarnished the Romanoff ruby, a royal cabochon that looks like Satan’s left eye. Stolen from the forehead of an idol that lolled, radiant and imbecile, in a temple of Benares it became the property of the Northern Semiramis, Catherine of Russia, who bequeathed it, perhaps purposely, to her hated son Paul. The latter went mad and was murdered. Subsequently the Tsar Nicholas got it. Nicholas fancied himself the great I Am. It was an illusion which the Powers dispelled. The shock of the loss of it killed him. Then the ruby passed to Alexander II. He was bombed to bits. After him it went to Alexan- der III who supped terror with a long spoon. Now it is the property of the present Tsar whose life is an imperial inferno. These instances might be multiplied, particularly as they do not prove anything, except perhaps that jewels are not for men, not for all men that is, though last summer King George appeared in Savile Row flannels—and very comfortable they looked—and also with a jeweled pin. His father would not have done that. “It is my business to be king,” the latter somewhere remarked and it was his business also to be a man of fashion. As king, that is to say robed and crowned, he had to wear jewels. As a man of fashion, that is in flannels or even in a high hat, he did not. A lesson in jewels A hundred years or so ago it would have been different. At that time men wore jewels and ruffles and powdered their hair. One man powdered his hair pink. Another had his valets blow different coloured powders on him until he got just the shade he wanted and very lovely he must have been. But that sort of thing has gone out. ‘It is the same way with jewels. Their departure coincided very nearly with a great man’s début. You may think that I am referring to my dear father. I am not. The man was Balzac and the scene the Opéra. All the swells that live and lie and die throughout the Human Comedy were there, and all their passions, all their jewels with them. A fine looking lot they were. One might hesitate to

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Costumes worn at the Jewel Ball given in Paris by Princess Jacques de Broglie say as much for Balzac. In accordance with some mysterious law, genius, which should be godlike, usually is the reverse. Balzac looked like an under- taker. Yet then he had dined. He had had a fillet of fame, a roast of scurrilities; for sweets, flattery en surprise. Balzac then was beginning to be. To emphasize the fact he carried a stick, one quite like another except for the handle. But he had no fob, no rings, in his shirt there was not Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 Sg A ERR even a pearl. If you want to be somebody you have got to be different. In that Balzac had succeeded. The hands of the other men were heavy with jewels, their shirts were brilliant with them. These things Balzac had in the handle of that stick which was ablaze with diamonds and opals and more chromatic than the upper notes of the tenor. It was barbaric perhaps and yet at the same 31 UNDERWOOD AND UNDERWOOD ’ ovoort time a lesson in taste which since then has been leisurely followed. Men of breeding do not now go about with jeweled sticks but they do not go about with jewels either. Previously known by their dress, now they are known by their address. That would be quite as it should be were it not that, in forcing the note, they have become ab- solutely lack lustre. (Continued on page 74)

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MR. CLARENCE MACKAY AND HIS CHILDREN, JOHN, ~ a s 7 ELLIN AND KATHERINE. ; » ie MR. CORNELIUS VANDERBILT AND HIS Four hearts that beat as one when pleasure calls, for Mr. 2 F DAUGHTER GRACE. Mackay never fails to oy all Kees Island sporting events ‘ Keeping up with Father is not an easy task wit is children. | “a ” MR. EDWARD McLEAN AND HIS SON VINSON. - A horseman in the making : is the heir to Walsh- McLean fortunes. He fol- lows the show circuit with his parents and looks for- ward to the day when he, too, will be an exhibitor. e is also fond of other animals and at Black Point Farm, near Newport, has quite an extensive “‘men- agerie.” MR. THOMAS HITCHCOCK AND HIS THREE CHILDREN, FRANK, MRS. JULIAN PEABODY AND HELEN HITCHCOCK. Betty aged four and Tommy junior who boasts of being three believe that one is never too young to go to the races. The Tailers belong to the Pip- ing Rock Colony, their charming country home being practically on the club grounds. Spring and fall, both the children and their parents take advantage of the various sport- ing events given almost directly un- der their eyes. INTERMATIONAL NEWS Paul THOMPSON Gown BROTHERS MR. JOHN S. PHIPPS AND HIS SONS, JOHN, JR., AND HUBERT. A polo enthusiast and two “futures” watching an exciting game on their own polo field at Westbury. Mr. Phi is keenly interested in the “sport of kings.” On his invitation the glish team used his grounds for their practice game. He was frequently a member of the team lined up against them. MR. AND MRS. HARRY PAYNE WHITNEY AND THEIR DAUGHTERS, FLORA AND BARBARA. “With all eyes fixed on the favourite and hope in their hearts.” Harper's Bazar, September, 1014

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Table MONG the many applicati of Ipture shown in the A recent Exhibition of Original Sculpture by Women none attracted more attention than the numerous little table fountains reoroduced in various sizes by well-known artists. Fully fifteen of these interesting and entirely new table decorations were shown, and so great was their success that a ber of fptors have had miniature reproduc- tions of their life-sized figures utilized as fountai Collaboration with the electrician has made it possible to have the water supplied by a small motor or pump scarcely larger than a man’s face, which may be concealed under the table or in the base of the fountain. By this agency a never-failing supply of pure water. forming tiny sprays, may be kept in ac- tion. The variety of changes in the arrangementsof flowers, ferns, water plants and mosses thatcan be made depends upon the ingenuity of the hostess. The fountains are made to order and can be adapted in size to any table. They are of bronze, bronze and marble, and silver, and cost from one thousand dollars apiece upwards. Two examples of life- sized figures that have been reduced to miniature are shown on this page: Paul Phillipe’s “* Defiance” and Harper's Bazar, September. Fountains Miss Clara Hill’s “‘ The Piper in the Garden.”” Mr. Phillipe’s original fountain, like its small replica, is of white marble. With a few ferns or the head of a rose dropped care- lessly into the bowl and the spray started, it makes a pleasing and very unusual decoration. Miss Hill’s fountain was intended to go at the end of a per- gola in a California garden, but through some misunderstand- ing the order fell through and the artist would have been at complete loss had not the idea of reducing the entire model and making it into a little table fountain occurred to her. Mrs. Bessie Potter Vonnoh’s bronze and marble foun- tain entitled “Reflections” is most graceful in motion and pleasing in color. It is especially intended to be used on a wooden surface and the tinkling of its tiny sprays adds much to the charm of the dining-room table. Another charming fountain by Mrs. Vonnoh is the “Water Lily,” made in blue-green bronze, and is wonderfully decorative with a few sprays of well ar- Courtesy of the Gorham Company _ ranged iris.

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DRAWINGS BY WILL FOSTER

When the hour of passion is over and her better judgment is once more in control, Mary Moreland at last sees Thomas Maughm in his true light and determines to reconstruct her life on a more rational basis. Assistance comes from an unexpected quarter and Mary gladly accepts the opportunity to form new associations far from the scenes which have brought her so much sorrow and disappointment. THE STORY Warm hearted, generous Mary Moreland, the sec- retary of Thomas Maughm, came closer and closer into touch with her employer, as constant bickerings and quarrels drove him away from his own home and his wife. Alt last, one day, overcome by his sudden plead- ing, she promised to go away with him, but by the time she had reached Boston, where she was to meet him, her better sense came to the rescue, and returning to New York, she resigned her position, later becoming the sec- retary of an English author, Basil Romney. Her life was not a happy one. Her mother has committed ex- travagances which the family income did not warrant, and opened accounts giving Maughm as reference Amber Doane, her friend and neighbor in East Orange, has been deserted by the French teacher with whom she eloped, and afterward turned from her own home by an angry father. And to add to her discomfiture Mrs. Maughm has detectives spy upon her and, by turns, threatened, pleaded and attempted to bribe her. Fi- nally matters came to a crisis at home and Mary quar- reled with her mother because the latter insisted upon her acce pling the large sum of money which Mrs. Maughm has offered to her. Leaving home she went to New York where she became a public stenographer in a large hotel. A sudden whim led Romney to take an interest in Amber and she finally became his nurse and companion. Alt this time Maughm has become some- what reconciled to his home life by the knowledge that his wife was about to become a mother, but Mrs. Maughm looked forward to this event with loathing, committing various indiscretions with the hope that her child might not be born alive. Maughm slaved unre- milttingly in the endeavor to put Upjohn, his pet min- ing venture, on its feet, but managed to see Mary oc- casionally and keep up his fervid protestations of af- fection. One day to escape from the worries of his busi- ness and his home he slipped away to his camp in the Adirondacks. Mary, in her capacity of public stenog- rapher, learning from one of her patrons, a Westerner, Mr. John Briggs, facts which she believed to be vital to Harper's Basar, September, 1014 By

+ T™ << yy t ? 7 : . \ J ih MARIE VAN Maughm’s mining venture, and not stopping to count the consequences, hastened madly north to warn him. U pon her arrival, U pjohn was forgotten, and the pas- sionate love scene which followed was only interrupted by a telephone message from New York, warning Maughm of the illness of Mrs. Maughm and the grave danger which existed of being able to save either mother or child. Suddenly conscious of the danger which she has again escaped by so narrow a margin, Mary hur- riedly took the first train back to New York, leaving Maughm to follow when he chose. EWILDERED by the telephone message from Doctor Thomas, and Mary’s pre- cipitate flight from the camp, Maughm was unable to sleep that night on the train. During the journey back to New York, he attempted again and again to analyze the situation. He could not understand why Mary, the gentle, loving girl once so eager to please him -apparently willing to give herself to him—should have fled without a word, alone. Could it be that Mary had not known that his wife was to bear him a child? Maughm could not remember now whether he had told her or not. But even if she had learned of it, now for the first time, why should she be so upset? It had made no difference in his love for Mary. Why then should she change toward him so abruptly? Maughm was mystified, but instinctively he felt that the breach between them was irreparable. He began to resent Mary’s independence. Never before had he seen in her any indication of ‘self-assertive- ness, and it annoyed him. To be left behind up there in the mountains so unceremoniously was humiliating. If she had only given him some rea- son for her amazing action, he could at least have retired with dignity. As it was the girl had made him appear ridiculous. Did she think he was a silly boy that would stand such treatment. Bah! He was glad to be out of it. And his thoughts wandered 34

VORST an a

to Daisy. His agitated brain did not grasp the full significance of the doctor’s message. The warning that probably the child might have to be sacrificed to save the mother had not penetrated his conscious- ness. If the journey from the Adirondacks had been tedious, the hour and _a half ride from New York to Mt. Kisco was endless. At every stopping place, Maughm fretted, and cursed the railroads, but as he drove up to the house and saw three motor cars waiting at the door, a cold dread at last gripped his heart. Brushing by the servant in the hall, he ran swiftly up the stairs. In his wife’s sitting room two strange doctors were busy with their instruments. Cicely Torrance came forward and drew him gently aside to the window. Doctor Thomas at the same moment came in from the bedroom, and as Maughm saw the haggard, anxious face, he turned helplessly with out- stretched, beseeching hands to Cicely. “Tell me,” said Maughm, “tell me, for God’s sake, has she gone?” “No, Tom, but it is as serious as it can be. Doc- tor Thomas will tell you. Tell him, Doctor Thomas, just as you told me.” Maughm listened with awed wonder as the physi- cian explained the inexorable laws of life. Daisy was facing death, that he might have a child. There was a chance for one life, and they were giving the chance to the mother. The two consulting surgeons confirmed the diagnosis. There was nothing Mr. Maughm could do, they told him, but to wait. Throughout the long hours Maughm sat waiting, his mind busy with memories of his married life. This room, so expressive of his wife’s love of luxury, reminded him of many turbulent scenes he had been through with her. Was it his fault, he wondered, that he had so few tender recollections? Again and again he forced himself to think of the early days, when Daisy had been affectionate and appreciative

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‘Il would like to go, if you think that I—I am worthy of your confidence.’’ in her simple tastes. If a child had come to them that first year, everything might have been different. Late in the night Cicely came in, and sat down opposite Maughm. She was thoroughly exhausted after her vigil by the bedside of her friend. Black rings under her eyes accentuated the pallor of her face. Maughm in rising made a despairing gesture. She put out her hand to him in an appeal for cour- age. “Don’t, Tom, don’t. There is really some hope.” As the gray dawn lightened the windows, Cicely went back where Death wrestled with Life. Maughm knew that the grim struggle would soon be over. But which was to be the victor? How unimportant everything else seemed. Urged by Harper's Bazar, September, 1014 remorse, Maughm turned to the door of Daisy’s room. Should he go in to her? “She was so beautiful,” he thought. “I would rather remember her so,”’ he whispered to himself, as he buried his face in his hands. The two doctors came out; they said something to him which he did not hear, and went away. He was huddled in the corner of the sofa when Cicely finally came and took his head in her arms and drew it to her breast. She was weeping. “Tom, you have a little son, and he will live! Do you hear?” “And Daisy? Daisy?” Cicely burstyinto sobs. Then struggling for self- control, she put her arms about the man. They 35 held to each other in silence, that silence which is the only answer to finality, a mute tribute to the woman who had given her life for a life. As a matter of course, the direction of Maughm’s household was assumed for the time by Mrs. Tor- rance, and Maughm took it for granted that she, as the dearest friend of Daisy, would look after the child. And, indeed, Cicely, who had often said that she would give everything she possessed for a child, began to feel that she was little Tom’s mother. As the weeks passed, the baby grew, rosy and round, and life in the Mt. Kisco home took on a new and a fuller meaning to Maughm. He was for the first (Continued on page 78)

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A pretty little American who is enjoying her sixteenth summer was wearing at one of the Races a delightful frock from André Groult of striped black and white velvet, the dash of colour lent by the wide girdle of King’s blue velvet. The buttons and buttonholes of the same vivid hue added dots of colour both on the waist and skirt. A double ruffle of fluted lawn, outlined in blue, rippled its way around the neck and lost itself under the girdle and a similar ruffle encircled the waist. Frocks Harper's Bazar, September, 1o14 Her young friend wore quite as simple a frock of white chiffon. Banding the chiffon skirt was a wide mustard- hued ribbon, the same ribbon appearing in the girdle which in the back was veiled by Watteau plaits of chiffon. A profuse use of ribbon is heralded by Callot in the gown worn by Mile. Radoline at the Drags, the long tunic being made of strips of taffeta ribbon which hung from a tightly draped girdle bodice of black lace. The advocates of the redingote pointed with pride to the blue gabardine model displayed by a fair-haired beauty at the Haies. The close fit of this garment was a far cry from the baggy, enveloping models of the past few seasons. The white corded silk vest was outlined by a row of but- tons covered with the cloth on one side and corresponding buttonholes on the other. Of velvet in the same colour was the high collar, extending from the shoulders across the back, and the cuffs. worn by prominent Americans 36

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Lady Granard was a study in gray at the Grand Prix, her frock being of gray net mounted over gray charmeuse. The skirt was a series of net ruffles headed with a beaded design, the lowest flounce falling over a beaded underskirt. The bodice, a vague little affair of the gray net sparkling with beads, was opened in the front, the V opening filled in with lacey frills. The sash of gray satin was wound around the waist, finishing in a knot in the back. Her black chip hat had a hedgerow of black aigrettes. herald the Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 coming 37 Mrs. Ogden Mills’ gown at the Grand Prix was a Callot model of gray-green chiffon, the skirt deeply tucked and the corsage of cream lace, veiled with chiffon, forming a long, loose blouse finishing in a deep pannier puff. The surplice vest of green taffeta narrowed into a girdle at the sides. A brand-new Drecoll frock worn by Miss Alice Nory at the féte of Comte Robert de Clermont Fermerre. The flaring tunic of mustard-coloured chiffon was deeply shirred at the waist and surmounted by a bodice of black lace. 2unu{ 32 mn One of the handsomest gowns in Mrs. Cornelius Vander- bilt’s extensive wardrobe was the filet lace she wore at the Grand Prix. The lace, made in long, loose mantle form, fell in straight lines from the shoulders to below the knees over a shell-pink charmeuse sheath. In the front it opened in a long, narrow, oval effect to display the underslip of charmeuse, and this opening was outlined by an em- broidered pink band. Her black tulle hat had an upstand- ing ruche at the back and uncurled ostrich at the front. modes

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lg ae . ~ , ne Na v iy j 4 ff iF) ' ; y } ,v Hf htt ly ula da TAY) . @ Re7 Siee hs ~ 4, oe parece at i, 3 | : * Be Zz Ee = ey . Site “tig U Y) Aa Uf, Uy 4, Yi} / Y) MUM Simple and chic for the “‘run into town™ uring the fall months. Lady

Fashions from a century-old chateau is the theme of Lady Duff Gordon’s letter, but there is no flavour of antiquity in the costumes described. ere, miles away from the City of Light and Fashion, there gathered on the terraces the best-dressed women in France. And with the analytic eye of a great artiste Lady Duff Gordon has selected the most advanced models to describe to you. The latest models worn by women of the highest social position— where can you glean more authentic fash- ion information during this “storm and stress’ period? August, 1914. Dear Mr. Editor: *M writing to you from the dearest old chateau, tucked away in the west of France and miles from the City of Light and Fashion, and where you would never suspect from its quiet, peace- ful beauty and old-world aspect that any kind of a “fashion article’ could take shape. But pause a moment, and listen to the voices that come over the castellated turrets and enter with bated breath its old gates, and cross the marble hall and the great salons, and step onto a terrace like a mini- ature Versailles—and there you will see just why I’m writing you a fashion article from this sleepy old m>nument of a day that is dead. Harper's Bazar, Sepiember, 1914 Duff The

A new version of the ever serviceable blue serge costume. Gordon Last Word in Marquise C. is having a garden party, and all her friends from the neighbouring chateaux have an- swered her call. They have come long distances in automobiles and by train, decked out in their best, to do honour to their hostess, as even here in the wilds of the country Marquise C. is recognized as one of the best dressed Frenchwomen in this land of good dressers. ° I am going to start at once and describe to you her whole “make up.” It’s rather chilly today— quite an autumnal grip in the air—and as Madame la Marquise has a suitable dress for every occasion and whim of weather, today she has chosen a dress fashioned in quite the latest edition of “panne vel- vet,” which is soft as charmeuse and drapes ina wonderful clinging, appealing way. The colour is of old parchment; the panne is draped round her in an indescribably graceful fashion—round her body and round her legs—and a piece is dropped slightly on the ground at the back. The approved waist line of the moment—on the hips—(I wonder where it will be next season) is accentuated by two furry creatures whose heads are meeting in a bite at one side and who seem to be holding the drapery to- gether. These fur animals—the size of a sable—are of parchment colour with dark brown “points,” such as paws and head. I do not know just what kind of an animal it is, and perhaps it is wiser not to ask, but it’s the very latest invention of the fashionable 38

on y 04 ry P=. 'm) ae. te f , . “ ey Pe ont - y : 0 = Y @ > < ante x ‘se * \ \ A suit of dark gray gabardine for mornings in the country. (Lucile)

Fashions furriers in Paris, and before I left I saw great muffs and stoles made of it, so of course Marquise C. has chosen it as the garniture of this her very “latest from Paris” frock. The fur is again used for a great upstanding, turned-back collar, but there is none on the sleeves, which come to the elbow and are evolved from the drapery of the bodice. They are finished off by ruf- fles of real Alengon lace, and more of this priceless heirloom cobweb is used in the front of the low-cut V bodice as a jabot. She has on long, “several sizes too large,” parch- ment gloves, which means I hope that gloves are going to come into their own again—they have been out of favour quite long enough. Her Yantorny shoes are of parchment suéde with amber buckles, and the stockings are of silk so fine that they look as if made of tulle. The clever “touch” which gives just the right picturesque “country” note to her whole silhouette is her large flat hat of faded nattier blue taffeta, with two velvet roses in lemon and mauve tucked under the brim at the left side. The right side of the brim is turned up to show her beautifully shiny black hair and her very pink ear with large solitaire pearl ear- ring. She told me that later on when the weather is colder she has a quaint cape and large muff of the newly invented fur to wear with the dress to further enhance its beauty.

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eh Psi ee. de a, ee ee he De Oe ole idling ‘ All ar | (i \3 WV = . > ~~ ety =| St / (5 LS ~ vase EG - A dear little frock for luncheon at the restaurant As she stands (receiving her guests) in the immense historical salon where for hundreds of years past other Marquise C.’s have probably done the same—but sure- ly with no greater success as to beauty of face and form — she makes a picture that thrills me with pleasure. And I surely sus- pect that her parchment-coloured gown was chosen with an express purpose, it fits in so perfectly with the background of tawny old carved oak. There are many more beautiful gowns, but none so eminently suit- ed to the occasion or weather. The dress worn by the Princess R. is also worth describing. She is a tiny slip of a dainty creature with demure brown eyes, and had arranged herself with almost start- ling simplicity in a frock of steel- gray taffeta; there was a tight little short skirt with a queer long apron of the silk gathered in front, which joined the skirt at the back, where it was quite plain, and a little draped bodice, open V-shape at the neck, where a book-muslin collar stood up straight at the back and opened in points each side of the V. The bodice was laced down to the waist in front with black taffeta ribbon, tied in a bow. The long, tight, gray sleeves were finished off in the same way at the wrists, whilst she had on very fine gray silk stockings and shoes of black satin, with taffeta Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 The Marquise C.’s dinner frock of pink taffeta clouded in gray tulle side. This was worn with white shoes and stockings. The lady wore a bergére hat with an enormous “ Paradis”’ in “‘téte de négre”’ colour, matching the ample cloak, trimmed with skunk, which she put on as she walked in the garden. I can thor- oughly recommend you the combination —pure white and “téte de négre.” Of the many smart women present not one of them was in any colour—only grays, black and white, and faded neutral tints, so don’t believe any of the fairy tales I so often see written by people pur- porting to be telling you of the “Paris Fashions,” that bright colours are ever worn by “La Parisienne.” The Russian Grande Duchesse, who graced the party with her imperial presence, was in black lace and a tiny white hat—delightfully simple, not an outward sign to show of her Jest a crown of sigretics x! ' royal wealth and origin, except a string of zs ) pearlsof abnormal size and flawlessquality. laced across the instep. Round her neck was LN 4 Here, let me tell you, though she is the the inevitable string of large pearls, and she had mother of two queens and has many on a queer little black hat that covered up all her hair, except just a peeping curl over each eye. There was a wreath of dead white pansies round the crown, and small black tulle strings were tied under her chin. Another beautiful gown was an edition of the fashionable and still favoured tunic dress. En- tirely in white “Crépe Royale,” the tiny skirt and long, full tunic and bodice were of the “‘crépe,” with a very wide, clumsy (with meaning) sash wound round the waist twice and knotted carelessly at the 39 grandchildren, she enjoyed dancing the “tango” and “one-step” (which is the inevitable accompaniment of every garden party just now) as much as anybody, and danced them very well, too. One lady had on her white hat a black tulle veil which had a flight of swallows embroidered on one side. I recommend this, too; it was most becoming. QoBfl ee~

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The Throw Away. The Circle, The Heel and Toe. The Holding Position. In Honour of the Dance Illustrated by Jeane Allen and Lawrence Durant ODAY, the man who does not dance is, as a clever woman recently observed, “a social pariah” and hopelessly out of the running. As for the girl who does not dance, is there one living? When the interest in the new steps grew into a mania, there were wiseacres in plenty who said “The craze will soon die, it is too violent to last.” But in spite of these predictions, this new “sport” has now been placed on a permanent basis. The best evidence we have that it will continue its hold on the public is the vast sums of money which restaurant men, theatre managers, and other pur- veyors of amusements, are spending on “dance halls.” These halls are not only growing more numerous every week, but also very much larger and more elaborate. In all parts of the country tea dances, dinner dances, and supper dances have superseded all other forms of amusement. The sharpshooters The most surprising development of the whole sport has been the sharpshooter movement, than which nothing in modern social life has ever been more extraordinary. These sharpshooters are champions, or stars of the ballroom floor, and may be either professional or amateur. They spring into fame over night, flourish for a week, and are event- ually eclipsed by more agile and graceful dancers. In the spring when it seemed that dancing interest, in town, was bound to diminish, the proprietors of the principal cafés and hotels in the big amuse- ment centres, those clever men whose instinct for what will amuse the crowd so frequently amounts to genius, originated the dancing contests, which have kept up the interest in a marvelous fashion. Beautiful and valuable prizes are awarded the winners, and both the dancing public and that large public which enjoys the réle of onlooker, responded joyously to the lure of these contests. Harper's Bazar. September, 1014 The sharpshooters go from one contest to another, competing for the prizes. There are now a great many of these experts, for the contest conditions are comparatively easy. There are also a great many contests for many of the restaurants hold two a week. The favourite prizes are loving cups, vanity cases, cigarette cases, for both men and women, and gold or silver bags. A recent prize, well worth winning, was a sterling silver after dinner coffee service. Dancing contests The arrangements for holding these contests and the system of judging is practically the same every- where. They usually begin at about 11:30 P. M. after the crowds from the theatres arrive, or if given on Sunday evening, at 10:30. Contests held in the afternoon are from 4:30 to 6:30. An evening dancing contest is a very gay and amusing experience. The room is crowded, all the tables are filled, and the dancin: floor, a moder- ate sized place, is in the centre of the room. After about half an hour’s general dancing the manager announces the beginning of the contest in which the hesitation, and one-step only, are danced. All couples entering the contest register their names with the manager. The judges are chosen from professional men dancers who do not know the entrants, so favouritism is avoided, and each couple is judged strictly upon its merits. There are usually from five to seven judges who sit at a table together. The music commences and the couples dance for five minutes, resuming their seats at the end of that time, while the judges confer. The manager then announces that a certain number of couples will dance again,—the men’s names are called, the women’s are never mentioned. This process of elimination is continued until there are three couples left. Then the decision is made, the result an- nounced, and the winning couple do a final round or two, alone, and advance to the judges’ table 40 to receive the prize. This is usually a handsome sterling silver loving cup from eight to ten inches in height. In some cases there are two cups given the winning couple, one for the man and one for the woman. The dancers in these contests are judged for three things: first, style; second, rhythm; third, execution. As the contest proceeds there is great enthusiasm and applause, the crowd quickly ap- preciating the fine points of the different dances. One admirable feature of the contest is the fact that they have undoubtedly helped forward the movement which is being made to “standardize” the new dances, for the style of dancing required by them is of the highest type. Benefits of the dance Just what quality in the new steps tends to make them permanent, no one can definitely say. But there is no doubt that “on with the dance” means off with excessive drinking and smoking. Both of these indulgences have been cut down to an extent which amazes the observant. The manager of one of the biggest restaurants on Fifth Avenue states that their sale of alcoholic liquors has fallen off almost sixty per cent. during the last year. The new dances are making the United States a nation of boys and girls. The president of one of the largest corporations in the country has taken up dancing, and in consequence, has grown younger in feeling and in looks. He goes to dances with his sons and daughters, something he never did before, and he has, he says, as good a time as they do! He no longer spends the after dinner hours playing auction, drinking Scotch high-balls, and smoking heavy cigars. In the morning, he walks to his office feeling more fit than for years. If dancing brings these delightful wonders in its train, it is small wonder that it has become a per- manent institution, rather than a craze.

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The Hesitation. The Lulu Fado, and Other New The Lulu Fado. The French Tango. Miss Hawkesworth. Their Own Waltz. Dances Illustrated by Margaret Hawkesworth and Basil Durant HE lulu fado, which is proving so accept- able to dancers of all ages in this country, was recognized and accepted by smart Parisians as a legitimate drawing-room dance in the spring. Although it is a com- plicated one-step, with several distinct features, there are but four different steps, and to this fact, I think, much of its popularity is due. The fado The fado made a pleasing impression at the very beginning. It was created by Duque at a time when the Catholics of Paris were forced to abandon the tango, because of the reported ban placed on it by the Pope. There has never been the slightest un- pleasant criticism made of the fado. It is graceful and alluring, but not sensuous, though there is much fire and spirit, due, no doubt, to its Spanish atmos- phere. The Castillan influence is most apparent in the one open step, in which the partners separate, turn away from each other, snap their fingers, or clap their hands, then pivot back into their usual position. The music, which is rather like that used for the tango, is slower than one-step time, and so arranged that every dancing couple on the floor must separate at the same time. The effect is unusal and piquant and the picture presented at the Pré Catalan and the Café de Paris when a hundred gaily gowned women suddenly mingle and then turn back, seeking their partners, is remarkably colourful. There is a chance for much byplay in this step. In Paris every one who dances the fado and the tango, dances it alike. In this country, everyone has a little tango of his own, and I notice that the fado is being treated in the same way. This should not be. The fado as I have seen it done since my re- turn from Paris, is not the fado of the Parisians. It is trite, no doubt, to comment on the graceful- ness of the French people, but it is nevertheless Harper's Bazar, September. 1914 true that they make an art of their dancing. We Americans consider it merely a diversion, a sport. The French woman, if she is going to dance, dances perfectly. In Paris the best dancer is not the man who creates the newest, the most eccentric steps, nor he who goes through the most steps. Rather it is he who dances fewer steps in the most exquisitely graceful manner. The one-step and hesitation are just in their in- fancy over there, while the lame duck can hardly be included with them, so little is it known. But undoubtedly Paris is becoming interested in these American dances. They will take to them slowly, however, for they have naturally a greater knowl- edge of the spirit of the tango and fado than of the ragtime dances as they call the dances which we have created in this country. The French attitude toward music I think that their attitude toward music has a great deal to do with this. They do not grasp our syncopated time; the musicians will not let them! The score must be played exactly as it is written. If the composer intended a long rest between cer- tain notes, the room full of dancers must stop, too. In all their waltzes for instance, there will be mo- ments when the dancers have to improvise steps, or just bob up and down to fill in these gaps. The first few days we were in Paris we did not have our negro band with us and were forced to dance with the French orchestras. When we asked them not to observe the rests, the leader shrugged his shoulders, and said, “‘ But, madame, it is written so.” Their music is lovely, oh so very lovely, but alas, it is not for dancing! On the other hand, they could not understand how we could dance with brass band and drum! The French tango will have a tremendous vogue in this country during the coming season. Every American in Paris is learning it, and it is bound to 41 be the smart dance of the winter. It is standardized, there are but five steps and of course every one dances it alike. You can go anywhere in Paris and know that everyone will be dancing it alike and in a most exquisite manner. It is the truly intellectual dance, for, while the steps do not vary, each dancer puts as much individuality in his execution of the steps as possible. The French tango One remarkable thing about it is that men and women of all ages dance it. It is considered, in this country, a dance of youth only. In Paris, perhaps the most graceful and wonderful tangoist is a Mar- quessa de , a frail, slender woman of eighty who dances constantly with her grandsons! In passing, one might as well predict a continu- ance of the dancing interest. Cafés and hotels in Paris and London which have never had general dancing are adding large dance floors. The Café de Paris and Ciro’s, in both Paris and London, for ex- ample, are enlarging their establishments in con- cession to this new spirit. The last night that we danced at the Pré Catalan, more than one thousand guests entered the doors. What a marvelous night that was! Each lady, on entering, was given a long flower wand, topped with a gaily coloured swinging parrot. On the tail of each parrot was a silver chime. As the dancers floated gracefully over the floor, the chimes tinkled, the gay parrots swung back and forth, the effect was bewitching. The men were given bags of gaily coloured balls, about the size of marbles, and as they danced, they tossed them at each passing couple; all this in a beautifully decorated room with wide windows and doors opening into the Bois, all the nearby trees hung with coloured lanterns and that whole corner of that lovely park illuminated with coloured lights. It was marvelous. It was Paris. MARGARET HAWKESWORTH,

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The line of the back is accentuated in this new Premet model of tan ve- lours de laine by the straight panel effect wrought by braid of a darker hue. The long, full pointed basque, cut circular, and the collar of Kolinsky fur are other new features. The full circular basque has been added by Béchoff David to a new eveningcloak of French blue iridescent spangles. Quite as striking is the cape-like drapery of the Venetian velvet sleeves. There is a large inted Directoire collar of sable matching the sleeve band. Clearing The Princess Guy de Fau- One of Premet’s newest cigny Lucinge demonstrated short coats is exploited the allurement of the scarf in blue gabardine and tunic in the drapery of the trimmed with wide black black charmeuse scarf, lined Hercules braid, the collar, with white,which was caught cuffs and large flaring to the high waist line of her pockets embroidered in white charmeuse evening brown and yellow wools. gown. A pailetted snake Of braid also is the scant coiled around the corsage. underskirt. the CHAQUIN TIGHE BY MLELE. DRAWINGS BY D. M. The fong straight line, An odd, ___ tight-fitted, said to be a development short-waisted bodice in the of the Greek costumes in Spencer effect is combined “Aphrodite,” is displayed to with an 1830 skirt of black splendid advantage in this charmeuse banded with gown of cream charmeuse with long, straight, hanging tunic corsage of filet lace and fitted coat with long, flaring basque. black velvet ribbon. The guimpe, collar and sleeves areof brown velours de laine, and the skirt is braided to give yoke effect. Course ** What are we going to wear this fall?’’ This is the question dominating all of the piazza conferences now that the tang in the air forecasts unmistakably another season. Mlle. Chaquin has been prying behind closed doors, hearing mysterious hints of the modes to come and seeing in the making certain costumes which are bound to have their influence on the styles we shall adopt this fall. And she also tells you of the wonderful new fabrics out of which the new suits and frocks will be made. ARIS at the present moment is not Paris. Society has fled, the great houses of the Place Vendéme and the rue de la Paix are, metaphorically speaking, bolted and barred. The designers are dumb. In their strongholds they sit, thinking of the fash- ions of the past, and meditating about those of the future. Well may they look mysterious and refuse to give utterance to their thoughts, for rarely has there been a time when such diametrical influences were at work. The Second Empire! Naturally! Everyone admits that is the trend. And in addition, what? The East with the long straight line and the loose, uncorseted figure, and elbow to elbow with this the tight buttoned waist of 1880, the full skirt and the short skirt of 1830, the Spencer jacket of 1790 with the Watteau backs of the Great Monarch —little bits from all the ages, anachronisms galore, and a mélange of the periods sufficient to drive the accurate to distraction. Ruminating upon these things, and notwith- standing the forbidding aspect of the tightly closed door, I called upon Mr. Worth the other day seeking to elicit some sort of helpful information. He greeted me with his genial smile and said, ‘“‘ Made- moiselle, this is confidential, of course; our fall models are to be made with skirts and with waists, the skirts may have tunics, the waists will doubtless have sleeves.” Thus do the great ones toy lightly with the serious subject of dress. But he added, as I left, ““One thing I will say, this year we are to be Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 reactionary. A complete change from our so called conservative ideas.”” Last spring they announced themselves as standing firmly by the traditions of the house, then straightway produced charming but exaggerated models. It will be interesting to see along what lines they will work now that they frankly admit they favour the extreme. Already one or two of the late spring models launched by this house have shown certain radical changes. The tucked princess gown of heavy white corded silk, for instance, sketched for the July number of Harper’s Bazar, was one of the most popular and conspicuous models of the season. It was photographed, sketched, and reproduced in copies by the score. Far ‘oo familiar to need de- scription, suffice it to say that though princess in idea it was worn over the uncorseted figure, that it was tucked in graduated tucks from shoulder to hem, that it buttoned in front, had long sleeves, and a very full tunic over skirt. So much for Mr. Worth. If this is what he means by reac- tionary, “tant mieux pour nous, tant pis pour Queen Mary.” Fortunately other houses are less secretive. Premet has already had an introductory opening, and two of his early winter suits are sketched in this number of Harper’s Bazar. By these it will be seen that one may wear a long or short coat, according to the needs of her anatomy, but that the skirts must be both short and full, and that the sleeves should be long, either raglan or adjusted at the normal armhole, but very ample at the wrist. 42 Also that fur is to be lavishly employed and that both skirts and coats are to be trimmed with it. With regard to coats, however, it must be said that if you elect to wear them short you must wear them very short, and that the new note is seen in the old- fashioned Spencer, tight fitted with long, straight coat sleeves and a funny bob-tailed basque. Béchoff David shows several of these among his early models. One is in white broadcloth trimmed with gold braid and is worn with a skirt of black velvet. And right here and now it must be said that cloth coats with velvet skirts, or better yet, velvet coats with cloth or taffeta skirts, promise to be much worn. Several have already made their appearance. One in blue velvet, buttoned down the front after the 1880 fashion sponsored by Premet, but with an innova- tion of long pointed tunics at the side, was worn with a ruffled skirt of self-tone taffeta, while another in the Spencer form of black velvet was shown with a plaid skirt of silk and wool poplin. To revert to Béchoff David: his suits for the winter show the short, high-waisted skirts gathered over the hips, but flat in front and back and with circular sides. These at the foot ripple into fulness, but there is no flare, the line from the hip to the ankles being quite straight. The jackets in general are made snug and trig through the shoulders, are girdled with high fitted girdles of the material, and have long, full basques, cut circular, and plaited or gathered, reaching almost to the bottom of the skirt. In several of the models the basques were cut in deep points at the side, though in general they were

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On the afternoon gown worn by Mrs. Benjamin Thaw at the Ritz the scarf tunic of black charmeuse embroidered in gold threads was cut straight like an apron and tied at the left side. Embroidered bands and Venise lace on waist. Ruffled from the broadly draped girdle of Empire green satin to the toes, each ruffle outlined by green picot braid, this black taffeta frock is further dis- tinguished by a flat yoke of black chiffon dotted in plush.

There is a wide, full skirt on Premet’s afternoon frock of cream chiffon ted Quite the most striking gown at the Races was a cre- ation of black and white lace

The admirers of the unin- terrupted Greek line may point to this evening gown of A coat of blue velvet with the loosely fitted front buttoned in 1880 style,

over golden brown char- meuse. ite as new is the high girdle draped into points at the sides and closing in the front with brown silk tassels. with loosely fitted cuirass of black velvet moulded to the figure and box-plaited trim- mings of the velvet. The black velvet toque was trimmed with tulle plaiting. white crystal net hung over white charmeuse which dis- playsthetypicallong,draped, waistless line. Worn by an uncorseted figure, the effect is unmistakably Grecian. long pointed basques at the sides and edging of sable is worn with a taffeta flounced skirt of 1850 in- spiration. Ecru batiste em- broidered collar.

se - \ > ® L « NS fis Pr \ Vw \ } ' G-— —<h A ; j y \ 4] , =, ae, } \ f / / \ — 4 | hi: yr = [f } | ' ) oe \\ } ee pe qe MA ' a m4 ae * @ \ 5 ac } "a } PY ee A. i ; at é é \ re. ) | f ent | , Py / i r: &

rounded at the bottom and sloped somewhat from the front to the back. Still another style of coat, most characteristic of the house, is the long, straight hanging three-quarter coat. The first of these models launched by the house early in the spring loéked not unlike a pillow slip. It hung absolutely straight from the neck to the foot, and was belted by a sash tied below the hips. The new models, though fashioned on these lines, are much trigger and smarter. One in light weight, high lustre, black broadcloth was made with back hardly fitted, yet somewhat adjusted to the lines of the figure. It was trimmed at the bottom with black caracul, had wide cuffs and high directoire collar of the same fur, and was belted from the side seams only by a wide sash of black satin, tied in a large bow in the front. These great Directoire collars of fur and wide turned-back cuffs made of otter, caracul, fox, sable and seal are very noticeable features of all the Béchoff David suits. Several of the costumes were made of the new Rodier “burella,” with the striped grenadine velvet called “tubeline.” The colours chiefly used for all the suits are old red, burgundy, brown, and olive. As has been noted, the majority of the Béchoff skirts have the high waist line; with the other houses, however, the line is, and bids fair to be, either normal or below the normal. Callot at the present moment is using both, and, what is more, both in the same model; a tight slip with normal waist, overhung with loose chiffon or lace mantel coats and waistless blouses. Yet in one of her Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

newest models, the corsage showed a long, full tunic, made of wide gros-grain ribbon, hung from a tight draped girdle bodice which reached just to the normal waist. The ribbon tunic was a decided innovation, heralding as it does the profuse use of ribbon as a trimming for the year. It was formed of four wide strips, reaching from the waist to the ankle; these turned back and over on themselves and caught again at the waist line, formed a full petal shaped overskirt. Drécoll is still using the long tunic, the kimono sleeve and the normal waist. His newest coats show the long basque with the line sloping from the Se gg waist at front to several inches below in the ack. Chéruit, for the moment, is silent and is content with pushing her full tunic, though she, as well as Callot, is using to some extent the straight, loose, hanging mantel of lace or net, made with a sug- gestion of a Watteau back and hung over a tight slip. In coats, her newest thing is the Russian blouse, but a blouse so modified by the Chéruit touch that it is no longer recognized as such. In this model the basques are long and circular. They are round at the bottom and are belted at the hips by a wide fitted belt of the material, while the upper part of the coat is tightly adjusted to the figure without an atom of fulness. White lambswool and black monkey fur are the two furs for which she thus far has shown a preference. To sun:marize, one may say that the long loose line of the East and Russia with the Second Empire 43 are to be the predominating influences; that the waist is to be normal or long; that the sleeves are to be long and short, and in evening gowns not at all; and that skirts are to be short, full, and ruffled. This fact cannot be too emphatically stated. Every skirt must have its ruffle, anywhere from two to ten, run from the waist to the foot, from the knee to the waist, or from the knee to the ankle. Other points to mention are that draperies are extinct, that bustles have breathed their last, and that the tight underskirt, or “jupe tuyau,” is destined to disappear. Sashes of all descriptions figure con- spicuously, as do the high draped bodice girdle and the sleeveless waist coat. These, it might be men- tioned, were first launched by Drécoll over a year ago, but they have been slow in coming into general use. They are now made of the same material as the skirts or of contrasting silk, velvet, or satin, are cut low in the neck, have long armholes and are worn over guimps of satin, net, or lingerie. In effect, they are somewhat like the jumper gown, but unlike the jumper gown are not made in one with the skirt. Martial Armand has a pretty little model showing a waistcoat waist of old rose velvet with surplice front and Watteau plait in the back worn with a skirt of black lace and chiffon. Another new note to mention is the shawl. This follows well on the heels of the 1850 to 1870 ten- dencies and gives the characteristic, narrow-shoul- dered silhouette, but it is no more becoming today than it was in the last century, and there is every (Continued on page 76)

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Mrs. Edward Raymond, formerly Miss Louise Hammond, a well known championship player. Miss Mary Browne, the winner of the national title in women’s singles, doubles and mixed doubles in 1912, 1913, and 1914. O one will deny that the physical superi- ority of the masculine sex gives them a certain advantage over women in an active game like tennis. There is, how- ever, less difference between the stand- ards of play than is generally supposed. Just what this difference is has been disputed among players of both sexes for a long time. Some years ago the members of the Kings County Tennis Club, in Brooklyn, discussed this subject almost daily. Several of the players, notably Miss Helen Hellwig (now Mrs. William H. Pouch), Miss Juliette Atkinson, and Miss Elizabeth H. Moore, who later became national champions, Henry Mollenhauer, a semi-finalist at Newport a few years ago, Dr. W. N. Frazer, and Henry E. Magowan, finally arranged a test game which should be played under unusual conditions. The girls contended that their skirts were a heavy handicap, and that if the men were similarly dressed they could not get over the court any better—and this was in the days, understand, before the present narrow skirts came into vogue. It was announced that the men must wear skirts. A dinner for the whole party was wagered on the result. Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 J. PARMLY PARET = Ber] aie Ree & + eg Bi a Oe PEC RS ae PS SH fe ae FAS eB Sw ee aknns AEE ane © o-ea7re% Tide oe PAUL THOMPSON COWIN LEwICK Miss Marie Wagner, noted as a fast, active player, was a notable contestant or this year’s championship. It required a long search to find a skirt long enough to come within the required eight inches from the ground on so tall a man as Mr. Magowan, who had been selected to represent the men in the encounter, and when he was properly arrayed he was pitted against Miss Atkinson, the smallest girl in the club, who only a year or two later was the best woman player in the country. It started in joke, of course, but before the first set was finished, it became deadly earnest, and try as he would, Magowan could not beat Miss Atkinson. Toward the end of the second set, the rule forbidding the man to lift his skirt above his knees was broken many times and he finally put his foot entirely through it. The women of the party claimed the championship after this match and “rubbed in” their victory at the celebrating dinner with great glee. Undoubtedly the man’s unfamiliarity with skirts had much to do with his poor success in this case, but it is a serious handicap to women as well as to men. William Renshaw, when champion of All-England, played an exhibition match agaist Miss Lottie Dod, then the women’s champion, conceding odds of minus forty, which was equivalent to his playing seven strokes in each game against four strokes for 44 Miss Claire Cassell, another contestant in women’s championships, made a decided sensation on the Philadelphia courts. the woman. He beat her in a close encounter. This match with its big handicap served for many years as a basis for the belief that women players were far behind men in tennis skill, but it was not a fair precedent. In those days, women’s skill was far below what it is today, and they have advanced much faster in proportion than the men. When California broke into the Eastern tourna- ments, a new feminine standard was set. Miss May Sutton made a clean sweep, and then went to England, winning the All-England championship in 1905 and 1907 from the pick of the English women players, who had always been rated as better players than American girls. Miss Sutton was one of four sisters, all of whom played the game well. Her father, an English settler in California, had brought his love of the game with him. He kept a private court at his home in Pasadena, on which the sisters, with the help of a few men friends, soon became very expert at the game. For five or six years, Miss May was invincible, and then she married Thomas C. Bundy, of California, who with Maurice McLoughlin has held the American championship in doubles for the last two years.

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Suspenders take on a feminine air when they act as the connecting link between the blouse and the striped flannel skirt designed by the Maison Royal. For a few seasons following Miss Sutton’s success, and while she was playing abroad in the English cham- pionship meetings, the American title was won by Eastern women, Miss Elizabeth Moore, Miss Helen Homans, Miss Eleanora Sears and Mrs. Barger- Wallach, but recently the American championship for women has been consistently held by girls from the Pacific Coast. Miss Hazel Hotchkiss, of California, won all three national titles, singles, doubles and mixed doubles, in 1909, 1910 and ro11, and her reign was To and again this year, thus being en- titled to take permanent possession of one of the big challenge cups. Miss Browne is nearly, if not quite, as strenuous a player as Mrs. Bundy, and that is saying a good deal. In England, when Miss Sut- ton was over there, the English critics insisted that they had never seen any woman player who covered court so _persist- ently and who showed such wonderful activity and endurance. It is chiefly in net play, in volleying, that a man excels a woman in tennis, for these strokes are made over the shoulder and the bones of a woman’s shoul- der are known to be differ- ent from those of a man. I coached Miss Eliza- beth Moore and Miss Marion Jones when they were national champions, and with both I played many practice matches to help them get into cham- pionship form. Some handicap was necessary, of course, and the handicap So snugly do the silk tricot sweaters cling to that I found most success- the (one yo aout 2 tenis ene a 7 — a es . one during the play. he ison Remy makes ful was to bar the volley them in wonderful combinations of colour and stroke. Not being allowed adds a cap with a band of the plain tricot. Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 sports the intro- duction of plaits in the skirts is sure to be heartily wel- comed. They may be used only in the underskirt, or they may extend from the waistline to the bot- woman they give the hall- mark to the sports skirt of the fall. DRAWINGS BY SOHEK There is very little connection between the wool sweaters built on the lines of a man’s garment and the feminine version in striped silk with sash and cap to match. The collar, edging band, sash and cuffs are in a contrasting colour. PHOTOGRAPHS BY HENRI ‘girls’ game.” MARUEL AND TALBOT The Maison Royal is making a delightfully “comfy” sports coat of striped wool velour—just the coat to slip on for the ride home in the motor after a game of tennis. to strike the ball before it touched the ground the first time, I found it no easy task to beat either of the women champions, and I believe that the power to volley plus the handicap of. dress covers the greatest difference between men and women players of equal standing. One need only to study the accompany- ing pictures to realize that tennis as played by women in these days, anyway, is no Miss Mary Browne plays as strenuous a game as any, never sparing herself in getting to the ball or in hitting hard, while Miss Marie Wagner is nearly as active, and a fast player. Miss Claire closely followed by the successes of pre hah cg fe Cassell is perhaps the most energetic Miss Mary Browne, of Los Angeles, pear only in the tu- woman who has been seen at Philadelphia who won all three titles in 1912, 1913 nic, butin some form “= since Miss May Sutton’s day—that is, she uses the same extreme body-swing in all her strokes, and uses her weight well to “‘fol- low through” in all her strokes. Miss Cas- sell believes in the most strenuous training for tennis and takes her play very seriously. Long after their early athletic days, the Amer- ican girls still continue to keep up their game, and even marriage and motherhood do not seem to bar them from tourna- ment competition. Miss Helen Hellwig, of Brook- lyn, who won the na- tional championship as a young girl way back in 1894, is still playing in tournaments as Mrs. William H. Pouch, with a son who will soon be old enough to take his father’s, if not his mother’s, place in the tournaments. Miss Helen Homans, of Engle- wood, whowon thecham- pionship in 1906, is still competing in tourna- ments as Mrs. Marshall McLean; Miss Maud Barger, of Newport, long after she started her ten- nis career,won the cham- pionship title in 1908 as Mrs. Barger - Wallach.

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we There is a particularly clever cut in the treco brassiere made by Benjamin & Johnes and shown on June Eldrige. The lower section is shaped to hold the figure and conceal the upper edge of the corset, while the upper section is just loose enough to be comfortable yet snug. The Royal Worcester Corset Co. has answered the de- mand for a front lace corset very satisfactorily in this Bon Ton model with the free hip bone and elastic section in the back. The low bust will appeal to many women. Posed by June Eldrige. There is nothing extreme in this Madame Lyra corset manufactured by the American Lady Corset Co., as it is intended for the medium figure. Though there are no stays over the hip bone, it fits snugly and permits perfect freedom of movement, which is increased by the V shape opening in front. Corsetr The maximum of comfort may be obtained in this Bon Ton model from the Royal Worcester Corset Co., for there are shaped elastic patch gores in the front of the skirt section of the corset and smaller, equally skilfully cut gores of elastic at the bust. Though the skirt section is very long it will not restrain the most str m ts of the dance, for there are no stays over the hip bones. Made of coutil, it is daintily trimmed with lace and ribbons. The elastic section in the center back makes this front lace Bon Ton corset from the Royal Worcester Corset Co. an ideal model for the dancer. There are just enough bones in this corset to support comfortably the average figure and give the desired straight lines, but so few that the wearer can thoroughly enjoy every movement. It is a particularly good-looking corset because it is developed in figured batiste in white, pink or blue and is enhanced with lace. June Eldrige posed in this model. Second es iny of the corsets on this page may be purchased through Harper's Bazar Personal Shopping Service FeDen The beauty of the transparent blouse becomes apparent when one catches glimpses of an alluring brassiere of lace enhanced by Cluny insertion mounted on satin ribbons. This brassiere from the H. W. Gossard Co. is so cleverly designed that even a heavy woman may enjoy it. This corset from the H. W. Gossard Co. is particularly designed for the woman who has lated iderable flesh over the diaphragm and who, naturally, wishes to reduce at this point. Though the busts are cut out, they afford sufficient support for the heavy figure. The spirabone, an interlocking, woven wire boning of wonderful flexibility, resiliency and strength, used exclu- sively in the sides of the La Resista corset, makes this model the ideal of comfort. To hold the body in the desired straight lines, boning of more rigidity is used in the fronts and backs. Nature

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A ‘ 4 : Y \' . if, a) | 3 M, Wp yf | My: NY ft Wh y Ail ij H.\} The acme of sumptu- ousness—ermine, me- tallic lace and satin—is achieved in this frock worn at Deauville. A strip of the ermine holds, but scarcely re- strains, the tunic of lace, another strip outlines the chiffon bodice and narrower bands draw in the fulness of the long sleeves. Only the slightest recognition of a waist- line has been permitted in this plaited net frock. The nonchalance of the bodice is enhanced by the scarf of fur, which is attached in the front and allowed to fall off the shoulders in the back. Loose falls of the net drawn in at the wrist serve as sleeves. Almost usurping the function of the skirt, this tunic of brocaded velvet hangs to within peeping distance of the bottom of the founda- tion skirt. Instead of the satin sash one of fur encircles the neck, crosses and is twisted in loops at one side. Venise lace is draped in the semblance of a waistcoat. Frills, flaring outward and upward and all plaited, make of this dancing frock a mid- summer night’s dream. Of the palest of pink tints—the flush of youth —the effect at the first glance is a bit startling, but amazement gives way to delight as the dancer floats around the ballroom. SO \ Ruffles—tiers of them—break forth at most unexpected spots on this gown of parch- ment gray satin; they tipple outward in the back and fall in filmy folds around the ankles. The touch of fur that made all gowns akin at Deauville appears at the neck and the elbows. Rg, 4 7 On fashion’s firing line—By Soulié No one can insist that the influence of the East has passed away when one of the most admired garments at Deauville was this gorgeous wrap, built on the lines of an Ori- ental potentate’s robe of state, exploited in velvet brocaded in me- tallic threads, and ost- lined by Russian sable. SS NS ~ IIo: MS \ QO WAX MS Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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On a crown, which fairly dwarfs the brim, the designer has dropped a cluster of grapes and has given to another cluster the function of holding down the ribbon drape. More of a basque than a blouse is this taffeta waist built on the 1880 style, even the trimmings of fringe and ruching carrying out to a nicety the ideas of the period. Raised on one side, the brim of this black hat flares out in the back, dips low at the other side, and is interrupted in the front by a feathery fantasy. A Coiffure, Harper's Basar, September, 1914 The soft felt hat has been appropriated by the woman who knows as the ideal knockabout headgear. Generally in white, the colour note is struck in the wide faiflle ribbon drape which enciveles the crown and is drawn through a large buckle directly in the front. There is no denying the fact that as a trot-about hat the small shape is desirable. In felt or in a fabric, the new turbans have the high crown almost hidden by a wide band, ‘often of Roman striped ribbon. The height is supplied by an aspiring bunch of uncurled ostrich. 48 Because it gives the air of extreme simplicity, this style of coiffure has lost none of its popularity. In reality it is very difficult to swathe the hair becomingly around the head. The beauty of the fabric is displayed to the best of ad- vantage in this whimsicality which, for the want of a better name, may be called a blouse. The sleeves and collar are of Calffot net. By a clever manipulation of the stripes a most effective blouse may be developed in the Premet striped taffeta, the attached tunic giving the new note. Hats and the Blouse of the Hour

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Hats large and hats small, hats broad and hats tall 1.—The small hats fit the head snugly as does this plaited silk toque from Cora Mar- ston, and the height is gained by the feath- ery fantasy which mounts ever higher. §.—Iridescent quills lend a chic and appropriate trimming to the trot-about hat ot plush in a soft brown tone and in the “vraie canotier” shape. Harper’s Bazar, September, 1914 2.—One of Lewis’ odd shapes in téte- de-negre velvet. In the roll of the brim there is the sugges- tion of the cavalier, the feather adding another jaunty touch. 6.—An outline of monkey skin appears on many Lewis hats and is particularly ef- fective whencombined with black velvet; “crosse en soleil’’ is poised on right brim. 3.—The satin hat bids fair to carry everything before it. In this toque the yt is net | on y the loops o ribbon but by the flare of the brim. 7.—Built on the lines of the helmet, a fur. motor hat from Alcidy is as good look- ing as it is comfort- able. A modest fea- ther fantasy adds a novel bit of trimming. 4.—The gold or sil- ver tissues can be used to excellent ad- vantage as airy crowns and Cora Marston has combined one of gold with a dull blue satin drape. 8.—It is the flare that “makes” this trotteur hat of black velvet from M, Uf- land & Co. Directly in the front a coque feather rises from a ribbon cockade. According to Caroline Reboux, hats are to be either very small or very large. There will be no compromises. The small hats, made of satin, plush or beaver, will fit the head snugly and will be trimmed with uncurled ostrich fantasies, while the large hats will be built on the lines of the sailor or a modification of the poke shape. The Maison Virot is featuring the princesse Lamballe shape with grace- ful, undulating brim and is developing it in a _ new silk with a velvet finish, called ‘‘ soie velouté.”” Carlier shows the mousquetaire and Napoleon First shapes and makes many of her hats without a sign of a foundation. Lewis advocates the tri-corne and for a large hat, the Louis XVI with trimmings of metal passementerie and monkey fur. The “‘ vraie canotier’’ is the standby of Camille Roger

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Just before the war—while couturiers were putting the the rue de la Paix was thronged with eager buyers and the finishing touches to the costumes intended for Deauville—our Paris Correspondent, Héléne, made the rounds of the leading dressmaking establishments. She visited, among the other houses, Callot, Cheruit, Lanvin,.Doucet, Beer, Jenny, Premet and Fairyland and everywhere she made a few sketches. Several pages from her sketch book are reproduced here. You will note the influence of the 1830 styles which prevailed before the rumors of war filled the air, also the suggestion of Russian influence as if the designers had looked ahead into the future. Borrowed from the past is the quaint idea of wear- ing a square-cut, severely plain, black velvet bodice with a filmy skirt. In this m 1, the plaited tunic is of white tulle and below it falls a tunic of white chiffon striped by bands of black vel- vet ribbon, each stripe terminating in a large pink rose. Lanvin advocates the embroidered dresses for little girls and embroiders in green, yellow and red a silk bodice. he lingerie flounce veils an under- skirt of green taffeta which matches the collar and girdle. Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 For dancing school, Cheruit is featuring the chiffon velvet frocks. This model is exploited in navy blue velvet with trimmings of bead fringe. The foundation or guimpe is of chiffon in the same tone. A wisp of black tulle embroidered in gold and girdled widely with black satin serves as the bodice of this evening frock, the embroidered tulle appearing again in the tunic which is supplemented by a plaited tunic of the plain tulle. 50 Premet features strongly the redingote, showing it in many varia- tions. One of the most effective interpretations is the black velvet redingote finished with a deeply inted ermine collar outlined by tinge. A novel twist is lent by the sash of black satin which is draped to fall in a point, weighted by a tassel, at the sides. Cheruit is showing for a young girl a clever combination in a navy blue satin bodice and plaid gabardine skirt, the gabardine extending in panel fashion to the embroidered collar. The belt is of black braid.

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Xt 1 = yon ) The 1915 version of an 1880 mode ex- ploited in taupe vel- fl A vet with swathing sash i | | “1 | There is an old-world grace in this cape-cloak model of cerise velvet, the cape outlined with black fox. of satin and upstanding plaited organdie frill at the neck. With the short jackets are shown the long tunics, often plaited as in this Bernard suit of gabardine. The generous collar and cuffs are of kolinsky. The fine of the coat is con- tinued in the tunic of the skirt signed by Béc- hoff- David, and the inevita- ble touch of fur appears in the kolinsky collar and cuffs. The combina- tion idea is devel- oped by Georgette in this velvet and satin costume, bands of flying squirrel fur edging the jacket and forming the collar and cuffs. Sti nnn e AeU EAA a ne Oe werisrcagumetn wees A box-plaited satin tunic flares over an un- derskirt of caracul cloth matching the jaunty jacket trimmed with black fox fur in this Georgette model. and bodice of chiffon, the velvet coat embroi- dered in silver, and trimmed with ermine. Doucet has made a pronounced departure in this velvet wrap by accenting the seams and has added fuxuri- ous collar and cuffs of fox. Premet has sent Over a reception cos- tume of electric blue velvet with skirt of satin Courtesy of J. M. Gidding & Co. Any of the costumes on this page may be purchased through Harper’s Bazar Personal Shop ping Service.

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2/ terre + TY $5 , SSNS ~h SS s co For the small girls the feminine version of the Oliver Twist suits at Best & Co. is as popular as its masculine counter- part. During the winter the blue serge skirt will be substituted for the linen one ard but- toned onto a blouse of shepherd’s plaid, instead of muslin, with collar and cuffs of white silk hem- stitched in colour. The 1915 inter- pretation of the pop- ular Russian blouse dress at Best & Co. is developed in blue serge with plaits outlining the front panel. The belt, marking the low waist-line, is of the serge. The little dress is worn with a white linen guimpe, having hemstitched Se collar and cuffs and blue silk cravat.

for iy } y i Courtesy of Best & Co. An odd little belt, which might be termed a juvenile version of the basque, distinguishes a new serge model from Jeanne Hallee. ade of any desired material, it flares at the sides and slopes to- ward the front where it is finished by three scallops and buttons. Touches of colour are introduced in the embroidery on the collar. Though simple in the ex- treme the skill displayed by André Groult in draping has made this “party” dress a charming model for “Sweet Sixteen.” A ciel blue crépe de Chine has been selected as the medium and a soft | ear silk has been adopted or the sash, harmonizing in tone with the yellow roses. For the wee lassie Best & Co. advocates this simple coat. Though not new it is in thoroughly good taste and may be developed in any material rangin from serge to velvet. he sash of velvet is fastened with a fox’s head matching the bands of fur which outline the collar and cuffs. Clothes For big sister André Groult has a simple, yet effective, dress of black broadcloth combined with a black and white checked cloth. The apron-like tunic of the broad- cloth is buttonholed in king’s blue thread, the same outline finishing the belt, the pocket, the collar, and the sleeves. The lower slee- ves are of cloth, a practical idea.

school

Best in cloth. ticoat. Another practical model for the schoolgirl at Best & Co. is of zibeline, though it may be ordered in any other fabric. The cape distin- guishes it from its predeces- sors and brings it right up to the moment. The collar and cuffs are of velvet and also the three large buttons which fasten the coat. Any of the costumes on this page may be purchased through Harper's Bazar Personal Shopping Service.

in a a a att TIE fs aE ON A pretty afternoon dress for the little girl is made of plaid silk by £ Co. and can be duplicated A new note is soun in the flounce of the skirt which falls over a plaited green silk pet- The vest is of white em- broidery with loops of blue silk, matching the sash, and the collar is also of the embroidery.

silk and playtime hours

wool and

Ren ast = oe

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AN | - er a tp PB ssid ie t Here buds the promise of the coming modes for fall and winter C= Sean ater OF ae a The short jacket will vie with the long redingote for favour this com- ing season. An extremely jaunty short coat—just the model for the slender, girlish figure—is shown with this Béchoff-David model of purple velours de laine. The skirt is quite plain, hanging comfortably full from the normal waist-line which is almost completely hidden by the surplice draping of the purple satin forming the bodice. The under- blouse and sleeves of the bodice are of purple chiffon, making it delight- fully comfortable in a steam-heated room. There is a martial air to the iacket which is given by the military- like frogs fastening the garment. The inevitable touch of fur appears in the collar and cuffs of kolinsky. ae Besa ova ete 2 & <3. pags ek Balak Sie a inal The charm of the redingote has never been portrayed to better ad- vantage than in this green velvet cloak from Madame Havet. The flare of the skirt section is taken care of by the plaits which are intro- duced at either side of a back panel. Over this skirt section the upper por- tion of the coat in the back falls in the semblance of a cape, its beauty enhanced by silver embroidery. Much of the jauntiness of the gar- ment is lent by the wide collar of satin in the same lovely shade of hunter’s green. Of silk likewise are the Directoire cuffs finishing the long close fitting sleeves. This redingote is worn over a skirt of black silk poplin, the fulness re- strained by a series of cording di- rectly across the front. Any of the costumes on this page may be purchased through Harper's Basar Personal Shopping Service, } | 1 i iV a / “Uf / yn \ ‘, hi I i) \ Courtesy of Franklin Simon & Co. Béchoff David’s theatre frock is a crescendo in black and white. It cleverly combines not only opposing colours, but two such contrasting materials as broadcloth and satin. The black satin appears in the un- derskirt which peeps out from be- neath the tunic of white satin edged with monkey skin—the favoured peltry of the early winter. This in turn is veiled by a tunic of black broadcloth, which is also used as the foundation of the bodice. Any somber effect is relieved by the waistcoat and draped revers of white satin. The desired long line is procured by black jet buttons which dot their way from the V opening at the neck to the furry edge of the white satin tunic. A more tailored iaterpretation of the redingote is shown in this model from Béchoff David. Exploited in black broadcloth, it follows closely the lines of the figure, fastening with two large covered buttons in a slightly double breasted effect. The chic is given by the high Direc- toire collar of kolinsky which opens in the front in a manner characteris- tic of the period. As the skirt of the redingote falls apart in the front it reveals the skirt of the costume, a series of accordion plaited flounces which ripple forth with a bouffancy that is startling after the restricted sheath of the past. Completing the picture is a hat of the Gainsborough type with an ostrich plume curling its way partly around the crown. 53

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T Homburg felt hat in brown worn with plain brown suit. White linen wing collar folded well back and green and brown scarf. HE wheel of fashion has turned again, and the commercial styles for women and men are ready for the coming autumn and winter. Masculine artists of all nationalities have been engaged in designing this commer- cial dress, and the results are weird from any point of view. That the gentlewomen of any civilized na- tion do not follow the dictation of these commercial designers may easily be discerned by a casual glance at any of the foreign illus- trated papers. Commercial apparel has been foisted on the American man for some years by American designers who know little of men’s dress. Men. with abnormally padded shoulders and overabundance of material in their suits, became the laughing stock of the world. But a year or more ago the masses declined to wear these “novelties,” and the fashions were changed so that the man who found it neces- sary to depend on American ideas is no longer a Her- cules, but an exaggerated effect of slimness. His lounge or working clothes fit as snugly as his dress clothes. But the time is not far distant when men who give any attention at all to their dress will realize the correct motive—and the fashion in Mayfair will promptly be worn in New York. This will not be brought about by ignorant American designers but by gentlemen who are taking up the profession of tailoring as a means of livelihood. Soon everybody will be back in town again and not only New Yorkers but men from the South, West and North who are here will be replenishing their wardrobes for the coming winter. Men will visit their tailors, haberdashers, bootmakers and hat shops. In the tailors’ they may be shown English and American fashion plates—perchance some Amer- ican models. The shirt makers will display wonder- ful designs in scarfs and shirtings though there is a notable timidity in the greater number of these shops in offering any innovation in the way of a newer or more correct collar than they happen te have in stock, together with an ardent desire to sell evening scarfs which have no “raison d’etre” and waistcoats that are quite incongruous. The boot- makers follow closely the newer modes and from the hat shops one should choose what is becoming. We are such a nation for informality that our sacque dress had best be taken up first. I shall dwell on some details which cannot always be ob- tained here as soon as developed, yet which in their simple styles will be seen a season later. I say simple, for whatever I describe to you will be far from bizarre or gauche. In other words I am telling you at first hand of styles that have been tried out and accepted. The changes in lounge dress are more noticeable in the designs of the materials than in anything else. Brown, in mahogany tones, will undoubtedly be the preferred colour. The gray ef- fects, made of the weaving of black and white, are back again but the silver tones in which silk was woven are passé. The pure Prussian blue, without the purple shading, in various, even light shades, should always be a part of a man’s wardrobe. The dark greens and the Lovett colourings come last as Harper's Bazar, September, 1014 The one button single breast- ed black jacket with fronts cut away to lower edge. white striped trousers. Var- nished boots with light brown cloth buttoned uppers. he Three button double breast- Black and shirt striped in gray. White collar and cuffs. Gray and black single bow tie. Black Homburg hat. a matter of choice. The stripings of any of these colourings with harmonious colour will be seen but the newer cloths are either perfectly plain or show a square over plaiding of lighter self colour or of com- plementary colouring. The general style of these sacque jackets outline the form but should not fit with the closeness necessary in dress coats. The smarter ones which are more difficult to make prop- erly will have, as always, the slight fullness from a high waist-line to the bottom edge in the back which does not flare but drapes. There is a decided ten- dency for the buttoning—it makes little difference as to the number of buttons on the jacket—to cover the opening of the waistcoat; discarding the roll of the coat below the opening of the waistcoat as the fancy has been for the past twenty years in sacque dress. This does not mean a high buttoned coat, for the waistcoats are cut considerably lower, both the single and double breasted ones allowing much of the scarf to be exposed. The return of a bygone fashion We shall see more double breasted jackets in the solid brown colourings and in the grays than in former years, and many more black jackets of wonderful vicuna stuffs and odd weaves of chev- iots made slightly longer than those of fancy ma- terials. The latest fancy in this black jacket is the return of a bygone fashion unchanged. It buttons rather high with one button, from. where the fronts cut away considerably to the lower edge. The fit of this coat has more of the dress effect and the edges may be bound or not as one chooses. The finish of the sleeve is a personal preference. I think the turned back cuff belongs on sporting coats only, and I should advocate the plain sleeve with three or four buttons. In selecting the trousers for these black jackets those that blend are much to be preferred to a con- trast. Imean by this that the trousers should have a black ground and be faintly striped with white or colour. There is no change in the width of sacque trousers. They ought to hang straight and be suffi- ciently wide (with a slight break on the instep) to almost cover the first button of the boot. I have seen some beautiful fancy waistcoats for autumn wear but in almost solid colours, white and drab corduroys in double breasted styles for the black jacket and striped trousers. Knitted silks and soft 54 Observer Without wishing to give offence to men who are obliged to purchase ready-to-wear clothing, the Observer points out that the abnormal and exaggerated commercial fashions which have been so conspicuous in the past must give way to styles which indicate judgment and good taste and which are designed sy wed for usefulness and comfort. lounge suit with its accessories is winter overcoats and dress clothes will be taken up in the next issue. discussed in this article. The fall and Covert overcoat of greenish ed suit of dark gray. White tan, worn over brown sac suit having overplaid of dark- er brown. Dark brown derby hat. Dark brown scarf. Black calfskin button boots. The Showing the double col- lar with space in centre of overlap. his collar may be made to set high or low in the front of the neck with- out destroying the style. wools for mufti in many colours have a silk braid binding about an inch in width on the edge and there are heather mixtures in soft angoras that will blend es- pecially well with the brown and gray suitings. The shirtings are even plain- er than they were a year ago, flannels, linens and heavy silks mostly in plain colours or fine lines. There is an increasing tendency toward the coloured collar. Often the collars may be matched in linen with the coloured patterns in the silk and flannel shirtings. For any kind of dress wear —the black sacque comes un- der this head—and even with the plainer suitings it is much better taste to wear white cuffs when the white collar is worn with the coloured shirt. Collars do not seem to change much in style. The smarter wing collar has perhaps even a little larger wing and is turned farther back and the dou- ble collar is made with the overlap showing a space in the centre with the sailor’s knot scarf still tied close up into the top of the collar. Plain scarfs are decidedly the best choice, or in very fine weaves where two colours are combined. The only bold patterns that will have any value will be the English regimental colours in broad stripes. Many fancy top boots will be worn but even he who knows little of men’s dress is aware that with mufti attire the black parts should have but a dull polish. There is only one permissible patent or bril- liant surface leather to be used with lounge clothes and that is the full brogan, heavy enameled boot for wet weather. One should wear a derby that becomes one and never change the block. One cannot improve on what is becoming. As for the colour, one is sure of black and doubtful of brown. Yet the very dark browns that were worn by some men in London and New York during the past winter and spring might, it seems to me, suit almost any complexion. In choosing the shape of the soft felt hat there is none that has more graceful or smarter lines with its curl- ing brim bound with heavy ribbed silk and its creased, conical crown than the Homburg. There is a fashion in gloves, too, for this dress. The heavy, red, tanned leather glove seems to suit it always. If one is fastidious there are gray bucks and various shades of brown. In the earlier autumn, with the Chesterfield and skirted overcoats, which I shall dwell on later, we shall find more of the coverts, the short coat which was resurrected a couple of years past from its last period of fashion in eighteen-ninety-four and ninety- five. It will be made in covert cloths of tan and brownish and greenish shades of tan and will be cut on the style of the present rather shapely, sacque jackets. In concluding my dissertation on lounge dress, I might say that there is nothing more gauche in con- nection with it than canes made of highly polished woods or those having ornate heads of gold or silver. Bands or pencil tips of both of these metals may be shown on crooks of ash, bamboo, etc., but other than these or the simple canes of these woods one never sees carried by the man who appreciates the * better forms of appropriate dress.

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When Miss Edith Hinz of the Castle House is posed in three of the most interesting of the MoyenAge gowns now being shown at John Wanamaker’s. At the left of the page is displayed an evenin frock of black satin an net. The ubiquitous ruffles ripple forth on the skirt, each ruffle out- lined by a pailetted band while the satin appears in the cuirass, the hall- mark of the Moyen Age That the magpie combination has lost The he. 43 fashion + none of its charm is demonstrated by a res- taurant frock of white chiffon richly en- crusted with black beads at B. Altman & Co. and boasting a wide satin girdle. changes promise to carry everything before them. Teller & Co. has imported from Rondeau Le Grande a reception costume of broadtail and black velvet with touches of ermine. Any of the costumes on this page may be purchased through Harper's Bazar Personal Shopping Service. Bonwit, —_ Another combination street at Bonwit, Teller & Co. is of black zibeline and black velvet. appears in a wide girdle swathing the hips and giving the effect of her mood modes. In the afternoon gown, shown at the right, the cuirass is combined with a flaring tunic, both being of gabardine. A discreet bit of braid- ing is introduced as trimming and the long rucked sleeves and un- derskirt are of satin. In the dancing frock, in the center of the page, the exican idea is ex- ploited, both in the silk and in the design of the clever frock. ma WILE reves The evening frocks will glitter from the metallic threads and beaded ornaments. In this white charmeuse evening gown from B. Altman & Co. the tunic is of silver lace and the pink silk roses are beaded. 55 costume for the Here the velvet a deep yoke.

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By The conclusion of Blessy Heminway’s stay at the sanitarium was as exciting as even that hens sand little For there were many mysteries to be solved and two unexpect When it was all over and they were at home once more both Jack and Blessy agreed that the rest cure, though a bit strenuous at times, had been a tremendous success. woman could desire. arranged for at the last moment. THE STORY Mrs. Jack Heminway has just arrived at Seafair Sanitarium, where she finds the various elements ready for a delightfully complicated human mix- -up—the flute-playing, sleep-walking maiden from Butte, the nerve-racked young woman in whom her absent hus- band wishes her to take an interest, two men of widely different types—the Brigand and the Canadian—and the usual chorus of attendants, doctors and other pa- tients of less importance to the story. To intensify the situation, the impression has gone abroad that she is unmarried, and the other women suit their conversa- tion to the mind of a “‘girl.” But, having sharp ears, Mrs. Heminway catches many tidbits of talk. Being a fascinating blonde with a magnetic personality, of course things begin to happen to her. Deprived of her midday siestas on the roof by the attentions of the Canadian, the Brigand, and a small Joke-maker who is recuperating from typhoid, Mrs. Heminway diverts their interest by pinning to her pillow a long black braid like that displayed by the unpopular maiden from Butte. When this trick fails her she reverses the proce ss, surreptitiously attac hing to the Butte’s pillow a yellow curl matching her own in colour. The Butte’s snores drive the others away, but the Joke-man, led astray by the curl, lays a bunch of yellow roses on the Butte’s feet, much to her joy on awakening. At the request of her husband, whom “nothing on earth could make her distrust,’ Mrs. Heminway, laden with some of Jack’s chocolates, calls on the mysterious Miss Carter and is horror-stricken to find an \open let- let there addressed to Miss Carter in her husband’s handwriting, and stacks of empty candy boxes exactly like her own. Miss Carter, meantime, talks at random about foreign missions and the tango. Mrs. Hemin- way goes away miserably jealous; her husband has not only been disloyal to her, but he has gone out of his way to lie about it, for he had said, casually, that he didn’t know the woman. She decides, however, that she will give no sign of her discovery, ‘and after two days of writing letters and weeping, she ntails a letter to her husband, “‘a saccharine effusion,” but written in per- fect sincerity before she knew the worst. In this letter ‘she relates how the Joke-man sent her some yellow roses which the Butte received by mistake, believing them to be a token denoting the speedy arrival of her lover. Just after Mrs. Heminway has sent the letter, word comes of the illness of her husband. There is another mystery to be solved, too, when she goes to her room one day after lunch and finds it filled with beautiful flowers. She goes to the roof to puzzle it all out and there encounters her own husband in an adjoining cot. In Diary, next day: HERE were we? Oh, yes. I was on the Seafair roof in my cot and had just discovered my picture in Jack’s watch, in the hand of the man-worm of the cocoon next mine. Ihad to leave you, Bookie, to an- swer a telephone call yesterday, and couldn’t get back to you. Viola Vixen Vandegrief called me up and wanted me to go out fora spin with her, and I couldn’t refuse as she is Jack’s sister-in-law’s niece and she’s in trouble, poor dear. I tell you, Bookie, this living on alimony must be trying to any woman of spirit. Poor little Viola Vixen is a harm- less creature, fairly running over with small griev- ances and she’s one of those who, when once she gets her wind, you can’t stop. But she is having what she calls a “helovatime.” So she condenses in her notes to me, as she knows her maid reads all she writes, when she gets a chance and all she receives always. But this is the only way I’ve ever known her to condense. I have an idea her prolixity had somewhat to do with Paul Vandegrief’s deflection, for the co-respondent in the case is a wax-doll who has never been known to say anything. But she’ll probably get Viola’s house in Gramercy Park, all the same, from the way things look, and he is fairly niggardly with Viola in his al- lowance—and you see, poor Viola can’t make a fuss just because, you see, men have liked her and Paul could give her cold shivers in a court-room, if he were provoked to it. That was what she wanted to consult me about, and why we stayed out so inter- minably. “How did I advise her?” Oh, of course, I ad- vised her first and last to make up with Paul, no matter what. I assured her that positive proof of a husband’s infidelity didn’t amount to a row of pins —that husbands were the most maligned class on earth, especially when they were the least attractive —that any woman who believed her own eyes against a man she loved was an idiot. Oh, I put it strong! Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 Letters to a Husband from a Worn-out Wife STUART RUTH McENERY Fhat’s the only way I’d ever advise any woman, after this, but—— ' But, I say, I was telling you—for my still re- motely imminent daughters’ perusal—I was telling you about Jack and me, and our tumultuous finish at the Rest Cure. “What did I do?” when I recognized Jack’s watch in what seemed his dear hand? Not only that, but when he had seen the time, I saw him turn the watch to look at my picture and heard his famili: ur chuckle of domestic bliss. “‘T chortle in my glee! When I look at you, Blessi- he had said more than once in moments of almost heard him bus!”’ tenderness, and it seemed to me I say it now. ““What did I do?” Why, Bookie, I’m almost ashamed to tell you. I bawled, that’s what I did. Just bawled! Aloud, as a child weeps when the end of all things has come, so I let myself go. Of course, Jack was up and beside me with a spring and before the few curious knew what he was doing, his head was under the pongee parasol and they must have heard him talking baby-talk. It’s a motherly way Jack always had with me if I’d get to crying, this baby-talk. Explanations I have no idea what I said. Jack wasthere. His dear arms were around me. I must have said some- thing, however, for presently he was answering: ‘Because, my darling, they told me you were out driving, and I strolled up here to take a squint at your ‘cocoonery,’ and your Beauregarde Davis came and asked me if I’d like a cot, and I said to myself ‘Why not? I'll take it and see how it feels till she comes.’—and.I must have slept quite a bit. After my night on the cars I was dead tired. ‘Frankly, my dear, I had no idea you’d come in before dark and I didn’t quite know where to be- stow myself if I crawled out. You see, I couldn’t register—not knowing just how things were—till I’d seen you. “But what are you crying for? How could I register? Haven’t I been telling you? Nobody knows I’m here. I couldn’t give you away—and— and—Sh—sh—h—h! People’ll be wondering what’s the matter. Aren’t you glad to see me, Honey- bus? ‘Get your letter?’ What letter? I’ve got miles of ’em! Wait a minute! Stop crying—I’ll be right back \ sudden attack of hysteria, while not exactly common among the nerve racked habitués of the roof, was not unprecedented; and so no one paid much attention to a strange man hurrying away and returning presently with something in a tum- bler to administer under a parasol. New tired people came in, you know, as fast as the rested went out. The caravansary was used to itself and its ways. Neither was any one interested to follow the hys- terical lady when she presently left the roof, vir- tually carried in the arms of her husband. I had been so swept from my feet by the excite- ment of Jack’s arrival that I hadn’t thought of the comedy of the flowers—I hadn’t thought of any- thing J had set me down in my room, in the midst of the array. Then there was something in it all that seemed to bring back everything with a rush. I tried to straighten up and meet things, but I was too tired, and after a spell of strangling and back-slapping I fell to sobbing and was forcibly taken to lap, willy nilly, and coddled and scolded. I knew I was failing utterly as a woman and be- having like a wretched invertebrate, but at last I got out: “Oh, Jack! Jack!”—and then I was off again, fairly drowning in grief. “Tt’s these awf—awf-f-fl-flowers, Jack—and every thing! I’m going to d-die—I f-feel so——’ Then, seizing the first trivial grievance that of- fered, I cried: “‘Wh-why don’t you ask me about them? Do you think I’m running a flower-show down here?” ““What’s the matter with the flowers, I’d like to know? Have you any objection to them?” His voice was positively stern and it brought me to my- self. Isat up and looked him straight in the eye. “‘J-jack Heminway,” I stammered. ‘ D-do you know anything—about—these—f-fool flowers?” “Well, I like that!’”’ He was exasperatingly calm. “Who else has a right to know, I wonder? Who else would be filling my wife’s room with roses?” I moved away back, to the very edge of his knees —and looked at him. and sh—h—h! 56 dings to “But Jack! Are you crazy? It’s well I know who sent them or I’d think you had sustained an organic lesion of the brain! Why, those orchids must have cost three dollars apiece at Thorler’s— if not more.” “They did cost fully that, my dear—if not more —and at Thorler’s. There’s nothing wrong with that, that I can see, and—”’ He had been unwind- ing the green gauze from my head, and now, seeing me well for the first time, he chuckled: ‘‘ And I don’t see anything wrong with you, either. Why, bless me, Blessy, you’re as pink and smooth as a three months’ old baby. This rest-cure is great! But come, now, I want to do some talking. ‘First, I must hurry down and register—and it might be well for you to go with me; that is, if you are ready to fess up and acknowledge me?”’ This was bringing things to a focus. Trouble already vaguely hovering loomed dark and awful. I’m not a cry-baby, exactly. I know I’m not, and yet, all my life, when I haven’t known what else to do, I’ve just cried. And so I did now—just cried, wearily at first, then—all the time with my face averted from Jack’s— I let myself go again, in sheer bewilderment of grief, Jack pitifully begging me to tell him about it; and when I finally escaped from tears, it was by the unhinged gate of laughter— and, of course, that required heroic measures, drops chokingly swallowed and kisses limply repelled, be- fore I was able to listen while poor Jack kept re- minding me that the time was short and he had im- portant things to say. Even this sensational announcement fell upon my ears like summer rain with no meaning beyond the power to defer the evil moment, until, finally, he lifted my face to his, wiped its tears away and said, in the unmistakable tone one uses in trying to quiet a crying child: “Guess what I’ve got in my dress-suit-case down stairs?” But I was in no mood for guessing. “T’ve brought your wedding-dress, Wifey, and it’s down in the rotunda now.” Now, I listened. Anything to avert the main issue! Besides, this was interesting. “And have you known him all this time?” I asked, sniffling. ‘And are you in it, too?” “In what, Beloved?” Oh, how I loved him! And how I kept sheathing the blade which would any moment sever us forever! I even welcomed the Butte’s silly affair as a foil in my extremity! “Why, in the Butte’s wedding, tonight, of course. She asked me to be matron of honour, and I had to tell her I had no suitable dress, and here you turn up with the dress and you evidently know all about the flowers and everything.” “Butte nothing! But you’re to be matron of honour, just the samee!”’ More mystery At this, the furniture in the room began to sway and the windows turned dizzily sidewise, while red and green discs melted into each other whichever way I looked. I grasped my husband’s knee and half sanely and half as one on the ragged edge, I gasped: “It’s Alice in Wonderland! And you’re going to say ‘All persons over a mile high, leav e the court!’” “Well, suppose I do. That won’t expel you!” But his light laughter belied a serious face, even while he added playfully, ‘“‘You’re not:a mile high, even when you get on a high horse. I can always reach you with a step-ladder.” “You are making fun of me, Jack!” I snapped. “‘T may be a real fool—but I’m not—I’m not a fan- tastic fool! What’s all this nonsense about my wedding-dress—and—and all these silly flowers— and your sneaking in and spying on me?” ““Blessy!’ “No, I take that back, of course!” It was really toocommon! “But it is queer, you'll allow. Here I’ve been led to believe you couldn’t possibly be along before Saturday, and “Blessy!” The call was staccato. “Look in my face. Now listen, will you? Give me five minutes, and not a syllable, if you love me, till I get through. There’s going to be a wedding here tonight, a sen- sational wedding in the smart set, and you are to be matron of honour—do you hear?” xi Ambition, distraction, uglification and deri- sion,” I mocked,—* and the drawing-master was a conger eel and he taught us drawing, stretching and fainting in coils. But where’s the gryphon?” I repeated the words mechanically, gazing va- cantly at the discs as they floated between my eyes

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and my little plaster Lincoln Imp upon the wall, but Jack paid no attention whatever. Alice in Wonderland did not exist for him while he went on: “‘ And I brought your wedding-dress, my dear, be- cause I remembered that you wore it when you were matron for Evelyn Dardrieth.” “But Evelyn Dardrieth was my friend.” ‘« And the bride of this evening is a friend’s friend.” This shot a chill through me and his letter to ‘‘a friend’s friend” that moment in my pocket was suddenly a live coal firing my mind to flame. Was he insidiously, maliciously, brutally, tending toward some awful dénouement? In the lurid glare of sus- picion, jealousy conjured all sorts of horrors. For a moment my hand even sought the offending letter. If there was going to be trouble like this, the initiative was mine, not his, and yet, as I looked into his face, I couldn’t doit. I couldn’t accuse him; but I am sure my face was not gdod to behold as I sprang from his knee, but not swiftly enough to elude his staying hand. Gently but firmly he drew me back to my place, and held me there. It really was my place, for was I not his rightful queen and on my own throne? So, loving him with all my life even while I held aloof, I parried the in- evitable, just to prolong this last moment there, and tried to answer him casually: “Really, Jack,’ I pleaded, “are we talking on the earth plane, honestly? And who, may I ask, is this ‘friend’s friend,’ forsooth—and where?” “She is here. Now, keep still, Blessy. You look so strange, you scare me. Ill do my best to explain, but don’t scream ‘Fire!’ or ‘Police!’ till I’m done. You’ve heard of Geraldine Haldane, Carrie Og- lesby’s chum, and at present Oglesby’s ward? Well,*I, J. D. Heminway, as Oglesby’s partner, am, in a manner, re- presenting him. You under- stand? You remember the girl?” “Remember the _ beautiful heiress, Geraldine Haldane? Why, who hasn’t heard of her? Everybody in New York who is anybody knows all about her, of course—and that Eng- lishman. Haven’t they been floating in and out of society columns, both here and on the other side, for the last twelve months? She virtually lives abroad, anyway. You know, she’s lost—disappeared months ago when the Duke of Don- aught came over to marry her. Lots of people think she’s been swallowed up in the white slave trade. Of course, I wouldn’t wish ill to anybody, but if my sorrow Over sO gruesome a fate could be mitigated, it would be in the case of one of these supercilious, expatriated American heiresses.” “That’s the worst thing I ever heard you say, Blessy. But don’t worry. She’s a little white slave of circumstance, is Miss Haldane, but that’s all, and she is going to be married here tonight—and to her other English lover—and that’s why I hurried along.” “Why you hurried along? I'll be switched if I see the connection, but no matter. Will you kindly tell me why she is to be married here, of all places in the world?” ‘Because they are here.” ““They,’ yousay? Here? Not at Seafair?” “Yes, my Love, here at Seafair—at the sanitar- ium to which institution I’ve been dutifully direct- ing all Oglesby’s business correspondence with her, sending her cheques, etc., for the last six months, to ward off possible suspicion of his keeping up with her. They say her people have set detectives on everybody she knows. Oglesby really didn’t know where she was, for a while. I’m quite curious to see her, especially after your report of her. Of course, you’ve guessed that she’s the little Carter.” Oh, little Book, little Book! I'll never be able to tell you what happened then, for I don’t clearly know. My first consciousness was of “coming to” in Jack’s arms. He says I suddenly fainted dead away while he was casually talking, which is the simple truth, as he saw it—dear unsuspecting Jack! —and that it was a natural reaction, after my sur- prise in his sudden coming. He’ll never know how abased I was, how I grov- eled in my soul when I just let myself fall limply Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 back into my old place—when I fairly wabbled my head to make sure it rested over the little hollow in his dear neck—when finally I was able to look up into his dear eyes and whisper, ‘“‘ Kiss me, Jack.” They say the hour of utmost peace in a woman’s life is when her child is born. Maybe it is, but I’m not sure. When I arrived at speech again, doing my best to be casual, I found myself at a loss as to just where Jack had left off. Fortunately, he promptly came to my relief with: “Had you guessed before I came, my dear?” ““Guessed about the Carter? Surely not. How could I? But Jack, you know she’s as crazy as a loon!” Jack threw back his head and roared. *“No doubt. And so were you crazy when you married me, but it wasn’t in the game for you to show it. Her case is just the reverse, and I’m told she does the nervous prostrate to a turn. Oglesby **We are really living more quietly, more sanely than in the old days.’’ and I nearly expired over that ‘hell-hounds’ busi- ness. Yes, they say she’s worked in all the frills and fooled the whole bunch here.”’ “But the man, Jack? The Englishman? You say ‘they’ are here. I’ll remember his name pres- ently. It’s—it’s—let me see. Street, that’s it, Sir Reginald Street. He must just have arrived.” “Not at all. He’s been here almost since she came—and he goes by his own name, too—his own name, translated, Reginald La Rue.” “Not my Canadian! The perfidious creature! Reading his old poems to me and—and oe “And knowing all the time who you were and doing you numberless little kindnesses of which you were unaware. He knew we were trying to help him and he didn’t know how much you knew, and he hoped every day that you would broach the sub- ject next his heart. He is a manly fellow, much too good for the whole tribe of Haldanes, although I’m half converted to Miss Geraldine, myself—the way she just wouldn’t when she wouldn’t, and Sir Duke had to turn,around and go back. Only last week, her mother said to me: ‘If I could only find her, she might marry whom she pleased.’ “*And would you be willing to put that in writ- ing?’ said I, seizing my chance. ‘I’m going knock- ing ’round and I might stumble on her—and if I had ; “*Gladly!’ She interrupted with a gush of tears, not even letting me finish. 57 “And I have it in my pocket this minute—with the license, which, I assure you, gave us more trouble— but we've got it! **So you can see there was no time to lose. You know, her mother was a Vanderthrift.and she had the millions and, as I’ve said, Oglesby is her guard- ian now. Her father had a stroke when she disap- peared, but she mustn’t know it.” A white light began to dawn. I looked around the room, at the flowers —and then at my husband. “ And these are her flowers, I suppose?” “Yes, Goosey, these are her flowers. any objection?” “Don’t bother me, Jack. Let me get my wits to- gether. She never seemed to see the Canadian. Why, I never knew her to leave her room.” “Strictly not. She’s as much afraid of a camera as any criminal. Otherwise Street could not have dared show up here, for, of course, she didn’t know he was here, that is, not till day before yesterday. He knew she was in retirement and he came incog., just to be near her. He sent all his let- ters under cover to Montreal or Quebec to be remailed, and there were not many—and, even so, they were written in French as from a certain Sister Mercedes, nonexistent, who is alleged to have taught her in some convent on the other side —just in case the secret should have leaked out. They’ve had a bad time, those lovers. “But when I started off with that maternal permission in my pocket, Oglesby sent a telegram in cipher to ‘La Rue,’ who rushed a card up to ‘Miss Carter,’ and things began to march in line. “Of course, she would have married without her mother’s consent, if worse came to worst, but she hated to, after openly defying her about Donaught, or Donaughty, as the New York Galaxy calls him. I fancy, from all accounts, that the little girl did well to let him slide. Oglesby has handled the affair on his side with great delicacy and skill. Five mil- lions there, you know. But for my having been drawn into it for him, I might never have heard of this place or thought of sending you here. “Tf Street hadn’t been a trump, I’d have put you on your guard, but it wasn’t neces- sary. But tell me, Dear, what put such a notion into your head as that these were the Butte’s flowers?” “Not now, Jack. One thing atatime. I'll tell you all about that tomorrow, next day, next week “And you say tonight, Jack?” Jack took out his watch. ‘In exactly three hours. The decorators come at eight to ar- range the flowers in the chapel, ceremony at nine. Train for Chicago at ten fifteen—thence they go to—well, that’s their business.” I had been rubbing Jack’s hand up and down over my cheek. I put it down now and laid my other hand over it in my lap while I answered: “T begin to see—and things look natural again, or half natural. But Jack, why in the kingdom did you send those flowers to me? I won’t try to tell you the fright they put me to—not now.” “For every reason, Dear, I sent them to you. First, because I knew my little wife to be discreet. She isn’t caught napping. If she didn’t under- stand, she wouldn’t say so. Am I not right in that?” Kissing the top of my head, as he spoke. But I was much too humble yet to do more than shrug my shoulders. “Then, Dear,” Jack went on, “you see, no one knew anything about the wedding, and they were not to know until the last minute—not until they had been invited into the chapel—savez?”’ “Ves, I see.” “And didn’t I guard your little secret well, Miss Heminway?—you little rascal!—when I sent them just to ‘No. 99, Heminway, no Miss or Mrs. or anything—no seeming avoidance—no possiblity of mistake.” “Hush bragging, Jack, and hand me my buffer. I’ve had every physical attention here except mani- curing. Women don’t manicure for other women much, and I always go gloved to the rooi—and my (Continued on page 82) Have you

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Harper’s Bazar Will Buy Any of These Things For You There is no charge for this service ~~ Every woman knows that New York is where styles are first shown, where great stores and — specialty shops vie with each other in splendid 4 displays and exceptional values. Our trained shoppers are buying for thousands of pleased patrons. What do you wish for early Fall? Address HARPER’S BAZAR ‘**Personal Shopping Service”’ 1100 Publisher’s Building, New York City B.—A voile waist seen at the Blouse Shop shows a finely tucked front. Its becomingness is in- creased by the flar- ing collar and cuffs. Price $2.00. : ) E.—Two saucy feathers tilted at just the right angle lend dash to a Burgesser hat of black Lyons velvet. The crown is banded with heavy gros-graip ribbon. The hat sells for $12.95. A.—With a skirt of black satin is combined a coat of blue poplin or serge, a note of distinction being added by the plaited skirt of the coat. The wide crushed girdle of satin is knotted gracefully at the back. Shown by Bonwit, Teller & Co. Price $45.00. C.—For afternoon wear B. Altman & Co. show a tailored suit of broadcloth which sells for $45.00. The braid trim- ming and collar give a decidedly military effect. D.—In striking contrast to more dressy costumes is an Abercrombie & Fitch “hiking” outfit. It consists of a tail- ored skirt of tweed priced $12.00 with tweed hat priced .00. The comfortable medium weight sweater is $5.00. F,—In a frock from Franklin Simon & Co., the tunic and bodice are of charmeuse, the sleeves and accordion plai skirt of heavy Georgette crépe. The collar is embroidered in green and jet. rice $39.50. 58 Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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K Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 *‘Personal Shopping Service” Thee is no charge for this service Bazar shoppers are always at your com- mand for the purchase of anything required from , : ’ NEW YORK Address HARPER'S BAZAR 1100 Publishers’ Building New York City G.—A frivolous and frilly little dance frock from Franklin Simon & Co. has the skirt com- posed of three deep flounces of cobweb shadow lace over a net foundation. Tiny roses ornament the softly draped satin corsage. Price $39.50. K.—Over a founda- tion of satin falls a tunic of fine blue serge in a smart street gown from Best & Co. The bodice in surplice effect 59 Send your shopping orders through The Bazar and we will for- ward with promptness and privilege of RETURN is a combination of serge, satin and Oriental embroidery. A dainty touch is added by the fine white organdie collar and vest. Price $29.75. Harper’s Bazar Will Buy Any of These Things For You H. feature of a practical and serviceable suit from Ave- don, which may be had in serge or broadcioth in blue, black, brown or green. The price is $23.50. J.—Velvet collar and cuffs are effectively used in a modified basque suit from Best & Co. The back shows straight and grace- ful lines becoming to the youthful figure. Price $35.00. L.—Simplicity is the charm of a trim little redingote suit which is seen at Franklin Simon & Co., the price being $39.50. The material is gabardine and it may be had in a deep rich shade of brown or in green, black or blue.

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Nothing s i@eé. 7 ess Though fashioned from an imported silk tricot the skillful drafting which has made the C.B. corset famous is evident in this latest model from Strouse Adler & Co. Real lace is used as trimming making a handsome model, The beauty of an underbodice and the practical ad- vantages of a brassiere are combined in the DeBevoise underbodice brassiere. The close fitting section of crépe de Chine holds in the top of the corset. So decorative are the undergarments John Wanamaker is showing a pompa- This peignoir from John Wanamaker is A woman may enjoy the advantages of pa- fashioned from the gay flowered chiffons dour peignoir of lavender chiffon with bil- of corn coloured charmeuse combined with jamas and yet not relinquish the ininity at B. Altman & Co. that no further enhance- lowy drapings of blue changeable taffeta orange hued net gay with appliqued red of a slumber robe in this Dutch pajama ment is demanded. caught with garlands of ribbon rosebuds. roses and veiled with a lace coat. night gown from Bonwit Teller & Co. Any of the underdress on this page may be purchased through Harper's Bazar Personal Shopping Service. 60

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Combination lip and eyebrow pencil in imi- tation leather case sells at Elizabeth Arden’s for $2.00. The eyebrows can be made darker easily ‘from this box selling for 35 cents. One of the most successful bou- quet perfumes sold by Sauzé Freres is Lauris, a subtle, appealing our, which is persistent without being insistent. In the leather boxes, it costs $9, and in the cartons, $5.50. The rose extract of Sauzé Freres is peculiarly lasting and as fragrant as the old-fashioned rose garden on a June morning. The bottle is unique in shape and restsin a satin lined leather box. It sells for $10.00 and $6.75. The hallmark of time Since fashion has decreed the low cut neck, even in street costumes, there is no disguise for the double chin. If you are unfortunate enough to possess such a disfigurement, you may know that Time has stamped you with his hallmark. There is no use arguing and bemoaning the fact; there is just one thing to do, eliminate it. Various and many are the means whereby we are promised a melting of the flesh which has accumulated through the lower part of the face. Some, though ineffective, are harmless; others are positively injurious, and comparatively few can make good on the alluring promises of the originator. One of the most reasonable methods is by the use of revolving balls. This chin reducer is a curious appa- ratus, consisting of a cap, which buckles over the head, and a roller made up of ivory tinted balls which are made to pass under the chin by the alternate manipulation of cords hanging from pulleys at either side of the head. These tiny balls, each revolving, create a friction with the flesh, thus rolling away the unsightly gobs of fat. Of course, the kneading process is neces- sarily a slow one, but the apparatus is easily adjusted and is a pleasure to use, while ten dollars is a modest sum to lay at the shrine of beauty. The latest vanity case for the maxixe dancer is a silken rose which dangles at the end of rib- bon streamers worn over the wrist. In the heart of the rose is hidden a mirror and behind it a powder puff. Price $2.50. With the aid of a little downy “patter” you may easily powder the back of the neck. This silk- en slipper with talcum powder costs 75 cents. To eradicate the summer ravages No one will deny that life in the open is the one best tonic, mentally and morally as well as physically, for every woman. But the sun and the wind, the body building elements, pay little atten- tion to the complexion. Too many of the sun’s kisses and the wind’s bois- terous attention will bring about a cruel awakening when summer has passed into history and a new social season looms up formidable and strenuous before you. It is all up to you; there is no reason why this awakening should be cruel and it won’t be if you have exercised a bit of foresight instead of taking refuge in hindsight. There are pounds of prevention in a good cream, the best friend of every woman who desires to be well groomed at all times. But there are creams and creams; some good, more that are useless, and a few that are positively injurious to the skin. Let me introduce you to a good “all-round” cream, if that sporting term may be applied to a boudoir necessity. It was evolved by an eminent French skin specialist who was seeking a preparation which he could recommend to all his patients. Its purity is said to be unques- tioned, only the finest ingredients being used—no lead, mercury, nor arsenic. It not only soothes and refreshes the skin, but it nourishes it, feeding the pores with beneficial oils, cleanses it, and keeps it in a good healthy condition. In a dainty blue and silver carton, it sells for $1.00 a jar. The modern ballad to the eyebrow There is more than song and romance in the modern ballad to the eye- brow, for it sings not only of the beauty of finely arched brows and flowing lashes, but it tells how to procure them. Indeed, they are more than marks of bags. beauty; they give to the face charac- The alluring ter and distinction, for there isa certain scent of lilacs vacuity, despite the indications of char- is given forth acter from within, when they are missing. from this To make hair grow where nature has cream sold | not intended it is one of the miracles by Riker & of science. And it is not a miracle to a xi ete 3 o. for 50 be wrought in a day. The woman who would rejoice in beautiful eyebrows; despite nature’s niggardliness, must have patience and perseverance. If she will Harper's Bazar, September, 1014 cents and guaranteed to be perfectly pure, One of the most woe methods Nartgneetgrs Sh how in > toilet Fyne + ee aoa be bought at James McCreery & Co. for $1.95. Any of the articles on this page may be purchased through Harper's Bazar Personal Shopping Service. Powder and rouge may be obtained from this leather box with mirror in the cover. Elizabeth Arden sells it for $2.00. A delightful perfume ty, may be evolved by using toilet water, perfume, cream and powder exhaling the same delicious aroma. Toilet water costs $3.50 per bottle. 61 of carrying the various toilet preparations is in the cretonne face powder, talcum, emery boards, The newest extract compounded by the Maison de Violette is Prelia, a bouquet fragrance with just a suggestion of the East in its composi- tion. The oddly shap- Another particularly alluring ~ perfume o the Sauzé Freres is Fleuris which is remi- niscent of a bouquet of flowers from grand- mother’s garden. In the leather boxes it ed bottle has a frosted sells for $11.75 and stopper oy eee for in the cartons for .00. -25- be faithful to the treatment, she will be rewarded, for even at the end of a few weeks the first struggling hairs ap- pear to encourage her. And the treat- ment is neither tedious nor dangerous, a little salve at night and a few drops of fluid by day. These preparations are compounded from prescriptions of physicians, men who are authorities in their line, and they are guaranteed to be pure in every particular. A box of the salve and the fluid can be bought for $3.00. With the larger boxes, selling for $5.00, there are included the preparation to blacken the brows and lashes and a bottle of “drops” for tired, bloodshot eyes. These “drops” need not frighten any one, for the liquid is merely an astringent. Comfort for the Maxixe dancer Even in the enthusiasm of the dance no woman is willing to risk her beauty. And few are the women who can dance for hours and not betray a flushed, more frankly speaking florid, complexion, shiny nose and generally disheveled appearance. The futile dabs of powder only serve to accentuate the flustered condition. The real remedy lies in finding a powder that won’t come off, and that powder will be found generally in the liquid form. Many women have fought rather shy of liquid powders because of the reputa- tion of a few cheap ones, but there is no harm and lots of comfort in a guaran- teed pure liquid powder for it will stick despite the heat of the ballroom and the strenuous exercise of the individual. Actresses are invariably in favour of it, provided of course that its purity can be insured. For this reason several of the leading actresses have decided upon a well-known brand which can be bought for 25 and 50 cents a bottle and in the flesh or the white tints. It is claimed that it nourishes and benefits the skin besides possessing the best of adhering qualities. The same company manufactures an excellent cold cream, which also has the confidence of the professional beauties, and can be used as a massage or cleansing cream. Price 50 cents a jar. The perfume of the gods From across the seas there comes to us an extract of unquestioned ex- cellence. It is an unusually appealing scent, light and fragrant without being oppressive and overwhelming. It has as its fundamental “‘origan} a species of laurel. Mythology extols this particular shrub, praising its delicious aroma, evergreen foliage and rare beauty. In fact, so highly did the ancient Greeks regard it that they dedicated it to the Gods of Poetry and Arts. It is closely connected with the legend of Apollo. This fair god vainly loved the nymph Daphne and her father miraculously changed her into a laurel tree in order to escape his ardent love-making. Apollo claimed the laurel tree as his special property and ever afterwards wore a wreath of laurel in Daphne’s memory. The legend has inspired the illustration which distinguishes the carton of this extract. In the leather cases, a bottle of the extract costs $9.00 and in the paper cartons, $5,59. The same company sells a delightful rose extract. Unlike many rose perfumes, it is free from the suggestion of musk and gives forth the fresh, “clean” fragrance which one receives from the roses gathered on a June morning when the dew is still glistening on their petals. It makes a charming gift, for nearly everyone appreciates a really good rose odour, and the leather boxes, in which the quaint little bottle rests, are excep- One may always enjoy the luxury of a powder bath after the morning dip if the traveling equipment includes one of these crushed ecraise leather cases in violet, blue or rose. They sell at Park & Tilford for $6.25. All the essentials for suc- cessful eye treatments are contained in this box sold by HuldaThomas for $5.00. The thought of spring is al- ways with the woman who uses Rigaud’s lilac scented talcum pow- der sold by tionally good looking. Ten dollars in- a vested in a bottle of “this breath of the m™. ° ’ roses” will give far more lasting pleas- ure than the same amount spent at the florist. compact car- ton for 50 cents.

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YOUTHFUL CHARM REVEALED IN EARLY AUTUMN BLOUSES Graceful lines and serviceability distinguish a silk jersey sport blouse of hunter’s green from B. Altman & Co. rice $15.00. Ruffles of accordion plaited organdie are ee pey A ome on a dainty crépe de Chine blouse shown at the Blouse Shop, priced at $5.00. Jaffery (Continued from page 29) truth speaking, he added to it an unshakable faith in Doria’s intellectual and spiritual su- periority. On his first meeting with her he had disclaimed the subtler mental qualities, videlicet his similitude of the bumble-bee; now, however, he went further, declaring himself, to a subrident host, to be a chuckle- headed ass, only fit to herd with savages. He would listen, with childlike envy, to Adrian, glib of tongue, exchanging with Doria the shibboleths of the Higher Life. He had been considerably impressed by Adrian as the au- thor of a successful novel; but Adrian, as a co-trader of the stars with Doria, appeared to him in the light of an immortal. Adrian and I, when alone, laughed over old Jaff, as we had laughed “6 r him for goodness knows how many years , who had guessed (with Barbara’s aid) * incidence of the thunderbolt, found in his humility something pathetic which was lost to Adrian. The lat- ter only saw the blustering, woman-scorning hulk of thews and sinews, at the mercy of anything in petticoats, from Susan upward. I disagreed. He was not at the mercy of Liosha. You burrowing mole,” cried Adrian one morning in the library, Jaffery having gone off to golf, ‘“‘can’t you see that he goes about in mort al terror of her?’ ‘“No such thing!” I retorted hotly. ‘“‘He has regarded her as an abominable nuisance a mills tone round his neck—a responsibil- ity ‘A huntress of men,” he interrupted. “Especially an all too probable huntress of Jaffery Chayne. With Susan and Barbara and Doria he knows he’s safe—spared the worst—so he yields and they pick him up look at him and stand him on his head and do whatever they darn well like to him; but with Liosha he knows he isn’t safe. You see,” Adrian continued, after having lit a cigarette, “ Jaffery’s an honourable old chap, in his way. WithsLiosha, his friend Prescott’s widow, it would be a question of mz arriage or nothing.” “You're talking rubbish,” said I. “‘Jaffery would just as seon think of marrying the St atute of Liberty in New York Harbour.” ‘That’s what I’m telling you,” said Adrian. “He’s in a mortal funk lest his animated Statue of Liberty should descend from her pedestal and with resistless hands take him away and marry him.” “For one who has been ha tiled as the acutest psychologist of the day,” said I, “you seem to have very limited powers of observation. unaccountable Adrian’s For some reason pale face flushed scarlet. He broke out vex- edly: “TI don’t see what my imaginative work has got to do with the trivialities of ordinary life. As a matter of fact,” he added, after a pause, “the psychology in a novel is all imagination, and it’s the same imaginative faculty that has been amusing itself with Jaffery and this un- qui alifi able lady.’ All right, my dear man,” said I, pacifically. = Probably you’re right and I’m wrong. was only talking lightly. And speaking of imagination—what about your next book?” Harper's Basar, September, 1914 “Oh, damn the next book,” said he, flicking the ash off his cigarette. “I’ve got an idea, of course. A jolly good idea. But I’m not wor- rying about it yet. ‘Why?”’ I asked. He threw ni cigarette into the grate. How, in the name of common sense, could he settle down to work? Wasn’t his head full of his approaching marriage? Could he see at pres- ent anything beyond the thing of dream and wonder that was to be his wife? I was a cold- blooded fish to talk of novel-writing. ‘But you'll have to get into it sometime or other,” said I. “Of course. As soon as we come back from Venice, and settle down to a normal life in the flat.” ““What does Doria think of the new idea?” Thousands who knew him not were looking forward to Adrian Boldero’s new book. We, who loved him, were peculiarly interested. Somehow or other we had not touched before so intimately on the subject. To my surprise he frowned and snapped impatient fingers. “I haven’t told Doria anything about it. It isn’t my way. My work’s too personal a thing, even for Doria. She understands, I know, some fellows tell their plots to any and everybody—and others, if they don’t do that, lay bare their artistic souls to those near and dear to them. Well, I can’t. A word, no matter how loving, of adverse criticism, a glance even that was not sympathetic would paralyse me, it would shatter my faith in the whole structure I had built up. I can’t help it. It’s my nature. As I told you two or three months ago, it has always been my instinct to work in the dark. I instanced my First at Cambridge. How much more power- ful Is the instinct when it’s a question of a vital created thing like a novel? My dear Hilary, you’re the man I’m fondest of in the world. You know that. But don’t worry me about my work. I can’t stand it. It upsets me. Doria, heart of my heart and soul of my soul, has promised not to worry me. She sees I must be free from outside influences—no matter how closely near -but still outside. And you must promise too. “My dear old boy,” said I, somewhat con- fused by this impassioned exposition of the artistic temperament, “‘you’ve only got to express the wish—” “T know,” said he. ‘Forgive me. He laughed and lit another cigarette. “But Wittekind and the editor of Fow/er’s in Amer- ica—I’ve sold him the serial rights—are shrieking out for a synopsis. I’m damned if I’m going to give ’em asynopsis. They get on my nerves. And—we’re intimate enough friends, you and I, for me to confess it—so do our dearest Barbara and old Jaff, and you yourself, when you want to know how I’m getting on. Look, dear old Hilary ”’—he laughed again and threw himself into an arm- chair—“ giving birth to a book isn’t very much unlike giving birth to a baby. It’s analogical in all sorts of ways. Well, some women, as soon as the thing is started, can talk quite freely—sweetly and delicately— (Continued on page 64) Fabrics from OUGH men must fight, | women must dress, and here in America we are far enough from the seat of war for the social routine to go on very much as usual. This means that women ust have new clothes, and if they cannot enjoy the French models, they | can have their cos- tumes developed in fabrics as beautiful in texture, colour, and de- sign as the materials used in imported models. The latest dispatches from Paris, which have escaped the eagle eye of the censor, tell of the gorgeous brocades, the wonderful vel- vets, the exquisite nets, and the radiant metal | cloths used by the few French couturiers who | were ready to show their winter models before they were compelled “to shut shop” and gird | on the armour of war. These same fabrics are now being shown in this country. There is, for instance, a velvet named Cleopatra for the woman whose wit and beauty has carried her fame through many centuries, which is really the last word in pile fabrics. It is the lightest weight velvet made, and is characterized by the softest of silvery tinges, a delightful frosted effect which the electric light brings out to the best advantage. With its sister fabric, radium velvet, it is the most regal of materials for evening frocks, especially when combined with the metal laces or the shimmering tissue cloths of silver or gold. This frosted effect, by the way, is a feature of many of the new stuffs. It is not the least interesting characteristic of a new faille, known as the “faille furlana,” and of a satin which has been wisely named “satin d’amour.” The pen is a poor medium with which to describe these fabrics, and give an adequate idea of their colourings and beauty. The touch of silver, which makes so many fabrics kin this winter, appears also in 5 1 GO ana te er charming, Black, pink and white are cleverly blended in this satin duchess pekin Roman striped velvet is a novelty. ‘S € V.6-7.. 2-6. 7 Haas Brothers many of the brocades. No lovelier material for a dancing dress could be imagined than a faille scattered over with a design carried out in silver threads. Side by side with these tinsel stuffs isthe“‘drapd’argent,” a shimmering, glori- ous, silver tinsel cloth. In velvets, as in silks, the stripes are paramount. There are the striped Georg- ette velvets, which have their counterparts in the striped Georgette crepes, and the Roman striped velvets. In taffeta, the most inter- esting striped design bears the name of Premet, and i in satin, a crepe pekin is known as “mar- cella.”” There are forty stripes to thirty-six inches of width in a ‘“‘moiré endymion,”’ and various combinations of narrow and wide stripes distinguish the moirés and crepes. Perhaps the most effective is a white moiré broadly striped in black satin. Between the silks and the woolens come the imitation fur fabrics which are a combination of mohair and silk. The imported “breit- schwanz velours” is a truly marvellous fabric with a “feel” that would deceive the senses even as the eye had failed to detect the imi- tation. Only the initiated could tell the pel- try from the cloth, and so clever is the imita- tion that furriers do not hesitate to combine it with the genuine fur. One thinks at once of broadcloth in looking at the newest of the wool fabrics, but there are slight differences, such as a twill, which makes the “‘drap de nymphe,’’ for instance, a more desirable material. There is the same rich lustre in “‘kitten’s ear” and “gloveskin.” The most valuable characteristic of these materials is the guarantee that they will not wrinkle. Wool failles, chenille cloth and the Cheruit plaids are other woolen stuffs which will play important roles in the clothes drama this winter. +o A taffeta striped in white makes an ideal combination with the plain goods.

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A Room in the W. & J. Sloane Division of Furniture The Sloane Division of DECORATION AND FURNISHING Ss, designing of interiors for town and country houses has become a Fine Art, to attain real distinction in which requires not only authoritative knowledge of the highest decorative principles but good taste and wide experience as well. It is with pardonable pride in our organization, with its complete staff of designers, craftsmen and artisans, that we claim pre-eminence in the field of Decoration and Furnishing. There are no requirements for Furnishings, simple or elaborate—such as Draperies, Floor Cover- ings and Furniture—which, with our immense stocks and resources, we cannot properly meet. Our prices are equitable in all instances. Inquiries invited from those contemplating work of this character. If desired, our represen- tative will call, and sketches and estimates will be cheerfully furnished. W. & J. SLOANE Established 1843 Interior Decorators Furniture Makers Floor Coverings and Fabrics FIFTH AVENUE AND FORTY-SEVENTH STREET, NEW YORK oe Ee Ne =] em Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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ee ae 2 , Seplember, ite Jhe FALL BRIDES . © s) | ROUSSEAU ans should be ordered now “We have just received from Europe exquisite new designs in Jahle Bed Linens, Towels az ee Hea phate Sultana” Decora tzve Line 2728S >) MOSSE LINENS - USEFUL and BEAUTIFUL ae ; Gebriadoer Moss L9West 45th Street-New York 47-48 Jaegerstrasse - Berlin ou Ior4 Jaffery (Continued from page 62) I haven’t a word to say against them—to all their women friends about it. Others shrink. There’s something about it too near their innermost souls for them to give their confi- dence to any one. Well, dear old Hilary— that’s how I feel about the novel.” He spoke from his heart. I understood— like Doria. ‘Elizabeth Barrett Browning calls it ‘the sorrowful, great gift,’”’ said I. “We who haven’t got it can only bow to those who have.” Adrian rose and took a few strides about the library. “I’m afraid I’ve been talking a lot of in- flated nonsense. It must sound awfully like swelled head. But you know it isn’t, don’t you?’ ‘Don’t be an idiot, ” said I. “Let us talk of something else.’ We did not return to the subject. In the course of time came Mrs. Considine to carry off Liosha to the First Class Boarding House which she had found in Queen’s Gate. Liosha left us full of love for Barbara and Susan and I think of kindly feeling for myself. A few days afterwards Jaffery went off to sail a small boat with another lunatic in the Hebrides. A little later Doria and Adrian went to pay a round of short family visits beginning with Mrs. Boldero. So before August was out, Barbara and Susan and I found ourselves alone. “Now,” said I, “I can get through some work.” ““Now,”’ said Barbara, “we can run over to Dinard.” ‘“What?” I shouted. “Dinard,” she said, softly. ‘‘We always go. We only put it off this year on account of visitors.’ “J “We definitely made up our minds,” I retorted, ‘“‘that we weren’t going to leave this | beautiful garden. You know I never change my mind. I’m not going away. Barbara left the room, whistling a musical comedy air. We went to Dinard. CHAPTER VII There is a race of gifted people who make their livelihood by writing descriptions of weddings. I envy them. They can crowd so many pebbly facts into such a small compass. They know the names of everybody who at- tended from the officiating clergy to the shy- est of poor relations. With the cold accuracy of an encyclopedia, and with expert technical discrimination, they mention the various fabrics of which the costumes of bride and bridesmaids were composed. They catalogue the wedding presents with the correct names of the donors. They remember what hymns were sung and who signed the register. They know the spot chosen for the honeymoon. They know the exact hour of the train by which the happy pair departed. Their knowl- edge is astonishing in its detail. Their ac- counts naturally lack imagination. Other- wise they would not be faithful records of fact. But they do lack colour, the magic word that brings a scene before the eye. Perhaps that | is why they are never collected and published in book form. 2 MINIATURE FLOATING GARDEN A crystal basin, 16 inches in diameter, in which are placed flowers, pebbles, bits of moss and gold fish, makes an attractive decoration for the festive board and may be had from Higgins & Seiter for $7.50. The flower holder is priced 50c. Now I have been wondering how to de- scribe the wedding of Doria and Adrian. I have recourse to Barbara. ““Why, I have the very thing for you,” she says, and runs away and presently reappears with along thing likea paper snake. “This is a full report of the wedding. I kept it. I felt it might come in useful some day,” she cried in triumph. “You can stick it in bodily.” I began to read in hope the column of pre- cise information. I end it in despair. It leaves me admiring but cold. It fails to con- jure up to my mind the picture of a single mor- tal thing. Sadly I hand it back to Barbara. “IT shan’t describe the wedding at all,” I say. And indeed why should I? Our young friends were married as legally and irrevo- cably as half a dozen parsons in the pres- ence of a distinguished congregation assem- bled in a fashionable London church could marry them. Of what actually took place I have the confused memory of the mere man. I know that it was magnificent. All the din- ner parties of Mr. Jellicoe were splendidly united. Adrian’s troops of friends supported him. Doria, dark eyed, without a tinge of colour in the strange ivory of her cheek, looked more elfin than ever beneath the white veil. Jaffery, who was best man, vast in a loose frock coat, loomed like a monstrous effigy by the altar-rails. Susan, at the head of the bridesmaids, kept the stern set face of one at grapple with awful responsibility. She told her mother afterwards that a pin was running into her all the time. . . . Well, I, for one, signed the register and I kissed the bride and shook hands with Adrian, who adopted the poor nonchalant attitude of one accustomed to get married every day of his life. Driving from church to reception with Barbara, I railed, in the orthodox manner of the superior husband, at the modern wedding. “A survival of barbarism,” said I. “‘What is the veil but a relic of marriage by barter, when the man bought a pig in a poke and never knew his luck till he unveiled his bride? What is the ring but the symbol of the fetters of slavery? The rice, but the expression of a hope for a prolific union? The satin slipper tied on to the carriage or thrown after it? Good luck? No such thing. It was once part of the marriage ceremony for the bridegroom to tap the wife with a shoe to symbolise his as- sertion of and her acquiescence in her entire subjection.” ‘“*Where did Lady Bagshawe get that awful hat?” said Barbara sweetly. “Did you notice it? It isn’t a hat; it’s a crime.’ I turned on her severely. ‘What has Lady Bagshawe’s hat to do with the subject under discussion? Haven’t you been listening?” She squeezed my hand and laughed. “No, you dear silly, of course not.” Another instance of the essential inconvinci- bility of woman. It was Jaffery Chayne, who, on the pave- ment before the house in Park Crescent, threw the satin slipper at the departing carriage. He had been very hearty and booming all the time, the human presentment of a devil-may- care lion out for a jaunt, and his great laugh thundering cheerily above the clatter of talk (Continued on page 66)

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MODEL 550 See how this corset is cut out in front. Note its low top, and few bones. Here is the model for riding, golf, motor, walking or any exercise. Has elastic section ossard ZF CORSETS Authoritative Front-lacing Stvles, Fall] D4 OSSARD gives a corset for every purpose, and each is the most perfectly made and modeled. They are fitted and fin- ished in the most superior manner. Gossard Corsets are the chosen of the elect the world over—recognized as the corset foun- dation for the modes of the moment. This world triumph of Gossard Corsets is the result of perfected fashion service, of scientific designing, superior workmanship and the Gossard original front lacing principle. Out of our wide range of models—almost 60 in number—we here present three styles of particular interest to the woman who wisely chooses her corsets for morning, afternoon and evening wear. Each style is perfect for its particular service. All Gossard distributors will count it a privilege to serve you. There is a Gossard for every need —and for every hour of the day. MODEL 414 For the new modes which require a slight sup- port of the bust, flat back and hipline. There is a slight curve under the bust just at the waist line. While designed for the full figure this model is very popular with the average type. Developed in a silk $25 00 brocade of exquisite richness— , Gossard Style Book on Request I at back. Fits perfectly. Made _ ‘ se eee d t Fourth Semi-Annual Gossard ; Proclamation of Authoritative Corset I Styles, Fall of 1914 1 1 / E TYLE pre-eminence has es- . tablished the Gossard Com- e pany as corset makers to the : world. Today Gossard Corsets : are sold in Paris, London, South America, Australia, Canada, Hawaii , and Japan. ; The models which have our stamp of approval for the coming g season can be seen in the store ranking first in class in your city. The [ Gossard Style Exhibition for the fall of 1914 begins September Ist : and continues throughout the month. Every Gossard dealer in this country will conduct one. In each store expert corsetieres, trained in Gossard fittings, will be in ; attendance. Style service, fitting service, and better corset value are what you get when you wear a Gossard. This is true of a $2.00 or a $40.00 Gossard. ; If you cannot obtain Gossard Corsets or Brassieres in your city, and would like to learn, through illustration and description, about the variety of Gossard Corsets at $2.00 to $40.00 and Gossard Brassieres at 50 cents to $6.50, write us direct. We will see that you are supplied. THE H. W. GOSSARD CO. MODEL 920 Largest Makers of Fine Corsets Sold in Every City and Chicago New York 37 South State Street McCreery & Co. 64 East Madison Street Bonwit-Teller Co. Best & Co. 310 South Michigan Avenue Olmstead Corset Shop Pari Abraham & Straus, Brooklyn ‘aris Galeries Lafayette London Aux Trois Quartiers Marshall & Snelgrove Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 McCutcheon & Co. Extending just above the waist line, this model gives the greatest freedom. Has three elastic sections im skirt. Can be worn with Sheerest gowns. AS an evening corset—for dancing or the opera—it is alone in its distinctive Gossard rich- ness. Made ofa mercerized Gren- $12.50 adine Brocade— 6s

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“They Look too Good to Eat” Watch a child when she first sees Puffed Grains floating in a bowl of milk. Note how she starts to eat them—grain by grain, as though too precious to consume by spoonfuls. Don’t you think that children—who so love Puffed Grains— should have all they want of them, morning, noon and night ? Watch Grown-Ups Eat Them Watch the man of the house when he first eats Puffed Grains served with cream and sugar. Or mixed with his morning fruit. The crisp, bubble-like grains crush at once into granules. And the almond taste—like toasted nuts—is the most delight- ful taste he ever found in any cereal morsels. Don’t you think that men should every morning get the foods they like so well ? Then some night—at suppertime or bedtime—serve Puffed Grains in bowls of milk. Float them like bread or crackers—these toasted, airy, thin- walled grains. Then note how the bowls come back from every side for more. That is our plea to you. folks all their fascinations. ideal cereal food. : Puffed Wheat, 10c Puffed Rice, 15c Except in Extreme West Let these grains reveal to your Each will find in one of them his Prof. A. P. Anderson has solved in Puffed Grains the problem of easy, complete digestion. He has done it by exploding all the millions of food granules, so digestive juices can act on them. In these grains he gives you the best-cooked cereals that were ever known. Welcome the fact that folks like them. so many ways. For in no other way perfectly fitted for food. Some like one best, some way save in the process. Be glad you can serve them in can these ,remier cereals be so another. Try them all. See which you most enjoy. The Quaker Oats @mpany Sole Makers They differ in every (640) Harper's Basar, September, 1014 66 ANNE II : | a aeddtiit EN McHugh & So wood basket sells for $10.00. THE WITCHERY OF WILLOW Few home lovers can resist the lure of an attractive bit of furniture. - m show a good looking willow chair priced $40.00. The substantial Jos. P. Jaffery (Continued from page 64) had infected the heterogeneous gathering. Unconsciously dull eyes sparkled and pursy lips vibrated into smiles. So gay a wedding reception I have never attended, and I am sure it was nothing but Jaffery’s pervasive in- fluence that infused vitality into the deadly and decorous mob. It was a miracle wrought by a rich Silenic personality. I had never guessed before the magnetic power of Jaffery Chayne. Indeed I had often wondered how the overgrown and apparently irresponsible schoolboy, who couldn’t make head or tail of Nietzsche and from whom the music of Shel- ley was hid, had managed to make a journalis- tic reputation as a great war and foreign cor- respondent. Now the veil of the mystery was drawn an inch or two aside I saw him mingle with an alien crowd, and, by what on the sur- face appeared to be sheer brute full-blooded- ness, compel them to his will. The wedding was not to be a hollow clang of bells but a glad fanfare of trumpets in all hearts. In order that this wedding of Adrian and Doria should be memorable he had instinctively put out | the forces that had carried him unscathed through the wildest and fiercest of the congre- gations of men. He could subdue and he could create. In the most pithless he had started the working of the sap of life. As for his own definite part of best man, he played it with an Elizabethan spaciousness. There was no hugger-mugger escape of travel- clad bride and bridegroom. He con- trived a triumphal progress through lines of guests led by a ruddy giant, Master of Cere- monies, exuding Patagruelian life. Joyously he conducted them to their glittering carriage and pair,—and, unconscious of anthropo- logical truth, threw the slipper of woman’s humiliation. The carriage drove off amid the cheers of the multitude. Jaffery stood and watched it until it disappeared round the curve. In my eagerness to throw the un- necessarily symbolic rice I* had followed and stayed a foot or two away from him; and then I saw his face change—just for a few seconds. All the joyousness was stricken from it; his features puckered up into the familiar twists of a child about to cry. His huge glazed hands clenched and unclenched themselves. It was astonishing and very pitiful. Quickly he gulped something down and turned on me with a grin and shook me by the shoulders. ““Now I’m the only free man of the whole bunch. The only one. Don’t you wish you were a bachelor and could go to Hell or Hono- lulu—wherever you chose—without a care? Ho! ho! ho!” He linked his arm in mine, and said in what he thought was a whisper: ‘For Heaven's sake let us go in and try to find a real drink.” We went into a deserted smoking-room where decanters and siphons were set out. Jaffery helped himself to a mighty whisky and soda and poured it down his throat. “You seemed to want that,” said I, drily. “Tt’s this infernal kit,’”’ said he, with a ges- ture including his frock coat and patent leather boots. ‘“‘For gossamer comfort give me a suit of armour. At any rate that’s a man’s ag I made some jesting answer; but it had been given to me to see that transient shadow of pain and despair, and I knew that the dis- comfort of the garments of civilization had nothing to do with the swaflowing of the huge jorum of alcohol. Of course I told Barbara all about it—it is best to establish your wife in the habit of thinking you tell her everything—and she was more than usually gentle to Jaffery. We | carried him down with us to Northlands that afternoon, calling at his club for a suit-case. In the car he tucked a very tired and comfort- desiring Susan in the shelter of his great arm. There was something pathetically tender in the gathering of the child to him. Barbara with her delicate woman’s sense felt the har- monics of chords swept within him. And when we reached home and were alone to- gether, she said with tears very near her eyes: “Poor old Jaff. What a waste of a life!” ““My dear,” I replied, ‘‘so said Doria. But you speak with the tongue of an angel, whereas Doria, I’m afraid, is still earth-bound.” The tear fell with a laugh. She touched my cheek with her hand. “Ww hen you're intelligent like that,’ said, ‘I really love you. For a mere man to be certified by Barbara as intelligent i is praise indeed. “T wonder,” she said, a little later, “whether those two are going to be happy?” ‘As happy,” said I, “‘as a mutual admira- tion society of two people can possibly be.” She rebuked me for a tinge of cynicism in my estimate. They were both of them dears and the marriage was genuine heaven-made goods. I avowed absolute agreement. “But what would have happened,”’ she said reflectively, “if Jaffery had come along first and there had been no question of Adrian. Would they have been happy?” Then I found my opportunity. ‘‘ Woman,” said I, “‘aren’t you satisfied? You have made one match—you, and you’!l pardon me for saying so, not Heaven—and now you want to unmake it and make a brand-new hypotheti- cal one.” ‘All your talk,” poor Jaffery.” I put my hand to my head to still the flick- ering in my brain, kissed her and retired to my dressing-room. Barbara smiled, conscious of triumph over me. During dinner and afterwards in the draw- ing-room, she played the part of Jaffery’s fairy mother. She discussed his homelessness —she had an eerie way of treading on delicate ground. A bed in a tent or a club or an inn. That was his home. He had no possessions. “Good Lord!” cried Jaffery. I should think I have. I’ve got about three hundred stuffed head of game stored in the London Repository, to say nothing of skins and as fine a collection of modern weapons as you ever saw. I could furnish a place in slap-up style tomorrow.” ““But have you a chest of drawers or a pillow slip or a book or a dinner plate, or a fork?” “Thousands, my dear,” said Jaffery. “They’re waiting to be called for in all the shops of London.” He laughed his great laugh at Barbara’s momentary discomfiture. I laughed too, for he had scored a point. When a man has, say, a thousand pounds wherewith to buy that much money’s worth of household clutter, he certainly is that household clutter’s po- tential owner. Between us we developed this incontrovertible proposition. “Then why,” said Barbara, ‘don’t you go at once to Harrod’s Stores and purchase a comfortable home.” “‘Because, my dear Barbara,” said Jaffery, “I’m starting off for the interior of China the day after tomorrow. ‘China?” echoed Barbara vaguely. “The interior of China?” I reéchoed, with masculine definiteness. “Why not? It isn’t in Neptune or Uranus. You wouldn’t go into hysterics if I said I was going to Boulogne. Let him come with me, Barbara. It would do him a thundering lot of good.” At this very faintly humorous proposal he pe ae immoderately. I need not say that I declined it. I should be as happy in the interior of China as on an Albanian mountain. I asked him how long he would be away. “A year or two,” he replied casually. ° (Continued on page 68) ’ she she said, “‘doesn’t help

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- SOFT COTTON re f° ss SPACE WARM WOOL ae For YOUR 2) CHILDREN’S ~ SAKE, DEAR MOTHER, , READ ALL THESE SACTS RAR sh ARR DTMM geht gee Sais Bue I Sy NNSA ETAT RESTS? ; “ You are not selfish — you want your children to be just as well protected against sick- ness aS you are. But ARE they? Diphtheria and croup, those dreadful diseases, often result from wearing faulty underwear. You, with your superior wisdom, know how to take pre- cautions to offset underwear faults. YOUR CHILDREN DO NOT. THEY do not know that when overheated by woolen underwear they should cool off gradually, or that it is danger- ous to throw off heavy outer garments when wearing cotton underwear. The love that you bear them, dear mother, cries out for the protection furnished only by Duofold Underwear Duofold is different from any other underwear. It isa double garment, consisting of an outer fabricof warm, light weight wool, and an inner lining of soft, thin cot- ton. The cotton absorbs the moisture of the body and protects the flesh from the irritating wool. The wool — repels the Winter’s cold and re- tains the natural heat of the body. The two fabrics are joined by wide stitching through which the air circu- lates and keeps the garment fresh and dry. This scientific construction keeps the body at a more even, natural heat under all changes of temperature. It does for children what your pleadings and punishments never will teach them to do for themselves. Physicians wear and endorse Duofold as the Ideal underwear. Get it for the whole family. If you don’t know the name of the Duofold dealer in your locality, write to us. FREE—Sample of Duofold Fabric and booklet on request. Tastee boketwitnte- — DUQFOLD HEALTH UNDERWEAR CO., 16 Elizabeth Street, Mohawk, N. Y. Duofold adnate 3 is Made for Men, Women and Children Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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Harper's Bazar, Sepiember, HAAS BROTHERS Gistinctive Dress Fabrics represent the latest ideas in texture, exclusive quality and richness of coloring, so necessary to the fashiona- bly gowned woman of today. Gh oreskin Cot REGISTERE This new fabric is all the name implies— beautifully soft and pliable—wvill not crease or wrinkle—the nearest approach to a glove material ever produced in a fabric. Kitfens for QWoth ecisTErReo A soft, lustrous cloth, of the finest quality— has a beautiful sheen and is most desirable for the new Fall styles in tailored gowns. Redium Yeh-of Jefin oS Mmour Velvet of chiffon with the The satin of the hour— lustre of satin. For evening with silvery high lights, in Wear it is most appropriate. wonderful colors. Haas Dress Fabrics appear at their best in these new and smart colorings: Téte de Négre Mysterious Green Saumon Orchid We will be pleased to send you a list of Dressmakers and Ladies’ Tailors who can show you the Haas Brothers Blue Book of Fabrics, in which these materials are shown. Haas Dress Fabrics are sold by Leading Dressmakers and Ladies’ Tailors exclusively. HAAS BROTHERS PARIS: Rue des Pyramides NEW YORK:303 Fifth Avenue Photo by Paul Thompsea org Casine at Monte Carlo READY TO SERVE feoen As the correct costume for the child’s nurse Henry A. Dix & Sons advocates a pink or blue chambray dress and for the waitress, when she serves afternoon Jaffery (Continued from page 66) tea, a gray alpaca dress. “Tt must be a queer thing,”’ said I, “‘to be born with no conception of time and space.” ‘“*A couple of years pass pretty quick,” said Jaffery. “*So does a lifetime,” said I. Well, this was just like Jaffery. No sooner home amid the amenities of civilisation than the wander-fever seizes him again. In vain he pleaded his job, the valuable copy he would send to his paper. I proved to him it was but the mere lust of savagery. And he could not understand why we should be startled by the announcement that within forty-eight hours he would be on his way to lose himself for a couple of years in Crim Tartary. “Suppose I sprang a thing like that on you,” said I. “Suppose I told you I was starting tomorrow morning for the South Pole. What would you say?” “‘T should say you were a liar. Ho! ho! ho!” In his mirth he rubbed his hands and feet together like a colossal fly. The joke lasted him for the rest of the evening. So, the next morning Jaffery left us with a “See you as soon as ever I get back,” and the next day he sailed for China. We felt sad; not only because Jaffery’s vitality counted for something in the quiet backwater of our life, but also because we knew that he went away a less happy man than he had come. This time it was not sheer Wanderlust that had driven him into the wildtrness. He had fled in the blind hope of escaping from the unescapable. The ogre to whatsoever No Man’s Land he betook himself would forever be haunted by the phantom of the elf. . . . It was just as well he had gone, said Barbara. A man of intense appetites and primitive passions, like Jaffery, for all his loyalty and lovable childishness, was better away from the neighbour’s wife who had happened to engage his affections. If he lost his head. . . . I had once seen Jaffery lose his head and the spectacle did not make for edification. It was before I was married, when Jaffery, during his London sojourn, had the spare bedroom in a set of rooms I rented in Tavistock Square. At a florist’s hard by, a young flower seller—a hussy if ever there was one, but bewitch- ingly pretty—carried on her poetical avoca- tion! and of her did my hulking and then sus- ceptible friend become ragingly enamoured. I repeat, she was a hussy. She had no inten- tion of giving him more than the tip of her pretty little shoe to kiss; but Jaffery, reading the promise of secular paradise in her eyes, had no notion of her little hard intention. He squandered himself upon her and she led him a dog’s life. Of course I remonstrated, argued, implored. It was like asking a hurri- cane politely not to blow. Her name I remem- ber was Gwenny. One summer evening she had promised to meet him outside the house in Tavistock Square—he had arranged to take her to some Ear!’s Court Exhibition, where she could satiate a depraved passion for switch- backs, water-chutes and scenic railways. At the appointed hour Jaffery stood in waiting on the pavement. I sat on the first floor bal- cony, alternately reading a novel and watching him with a sardonic eye. Presently Gwenny turned the corner of the square—our house was a few doors up—and she appeared, on the opposite side of the road, by the square rail- ings. But Gwenny was not alone. Gwenny, rigged out in the height of Bloomsbury florists’ fashion, was ostentatiously accompanied by a young man, a very scrubby, pallid, ignoble young man; his arm was round her waist, and her arm was around his, in the approved en- linkment of couples in her class who are keep- ing company, or, in other words, are, or are about to be, engaged to be married. A curi- ous shock vibrated through Jaffery’s frame. He flamed red. He saw red. Gwenny shot a supercilious glance and tossed her chin. Jaffery crossed the road and barred their path. He fished in his pocket for some coins and addressed the scrubby man, who, poor wretch, had never heard of Jaffery’s existence. “Here’s twopence to go away. Take’ the twopence and goaway. Damn you—take the twopence.” The man retreated in a scare. ““Won’t you take the twopence? I would advise you to.” Anybody but a born fool or a hero would have taken the twopence. I think the scrubby man had the makings of a hero. He looked up at the blazing giant. “You be damned!” said he, retreating a pace. Then, suddenly, with the swiftness of a panther, Jaffery sprang on him, grasped him in the back by a clump of clothes—it seemed, with one hand, so quickly was it done—and hurled him yards away over the railings. I can still see the flight of the poor devil’s body in midair until it fell into a holly bush. With another spring he turned on the paralysed Gwenny, caught her up like a doll and charged with her now screaming violently against the shut solid oak front door. A flash of instinct suggested a latchkey. Holding the girl any- how, he fumbled in his pocket. It was an August London evening. The Square was deserted; but at Gwenny’s shrieks, neighbour- ing windows were thrown up and eager heads appeared. It was very funny. There was Jaffery holding a squalling girl in one arm and with the other exploring available pockets for his latchkey. I had one of the inspirations of my life. I rushed into my bedroom, caught up the ewer from my washstand, went out onto the extreme edge of the balcony and cast the gallon or so of water over the heads of the struggling pair. The effect was amazing. Jaffery dropped the girl. The girl, once on her feet, fled like a cat. Jaffery looked up idiot- ically. I flourished the empty jug. I think I threatened to brain him with it if he stirred. Then people began to pour out of the houses and a policeman sprang up from nowhere. I went down and joined the excited throng. There was a dreadful to-do. It cost Jaffery five hundred pounds to mitigate the righteous wrath of the young man in the holly-bush, and save himself from a dungeon-cell. The scrubby young man who, it appeared, had been brought up in the fishmongering trade, used the five hundred pounds to set up for himself in Ealing, where very shortly after- wards Gwenny joined him, and that, save an enduring ashamedness on the part of Jaffery, was the end of the matter. 2 So, if Jaffery did lose his head over Doria, there might be the devil to pay. We sighed and reconciled ourselves to his exile in Crim Tartary. After all, it was his business in life to visit the dark places of the earth and keep the world informed of history in the making. And it was a business which could not possibly be carried on in the most cunningly deviset home that could be purchased. at Harrod’s Stores. {To be continued in the October issue)

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y al Ss Ms in ‘ ? Miz 4iyyiy)' VERY Phipps model has its history of conception, change and improvement before its appear- ance in the World of Fashion. And every Phipps model is born of an idea and interprets that idea with art. You cannot make mistakes at the shop that sells Phipps Hats. SS *eaistinep woz” C. M. PHIPPS, Iac. 29-33 West 38th Street, New York Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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NABISCO Sugar Wafers HESE incomparable sweets are the most popular ofall dessert confections. Whether served at dinner, afternoon tea or any social gathering, Nabisco Sugar Wafers are equally delightful and appro- priate. In ten-cent tins; also in twenty- five-cent tins. ADORA Another dessert delight. Wafers of pleas- ing size and form with a bountiful con- | fectionery filling. Another help to the hostess. In ten-cent tins. NATIONAL BISCUIT COM PANY “The Oil of the Epicure’’ K) T is as though you should say: ‘Mine friend, you and I know \ ‘ the great difference in flavor between mere pure olive oil and \) this pure olive oil— come let us enjoy its exquisite bouquet and N pity those who do not know.” () ' MK At your dealer's or delivered direct in gallon or half-gallon cans or in bottles fy 4 } securely packed upon receipt of the following prices: Gallons $3.85, half-gallons (\ } $2.25, 21 ounces $1.00, 10 ounces, 60c, 5 ounces 35c. Send to-day for the inter- \ , esting McNally Olive Oil booklet with which we shall forward 6 beautiful post Ww ‘; cards showing scenic spots in California. YY / 0, yin Address Chicago Office McNally Ranch vy \ 116 Rand-McNally Building, Chicago Kh aA FREE AY o¢, a Rw post cards and beautiful (A) 4 booklet. Write for them to-day. N\ 1 en \ a ~ —— SS OSS SBE SS EF Harper's Basar, September, 1914 TEA TABLE HINTS FOR THE HOSTESS Of the sort to tempt the eye and the taste are the very distinctive bend ainted plates of Hungarian pottery, rimmed with wicker, shown by Jos. P. Very dainty, too, are the oblong ne wich m, three plates in a stand, $4.50. ugh & plates at $3.50 and the little bonbon dishes at $1.50. The Love Affair of Victor Hugo and Juliette Drouet (Continued from page 23) thinking of you and reading yesterday’s newspapers. I reached home exactly at seven o'clock last night, undressed, tidied my things, dined, wrote to you, did my accounts, and read Claude Gueux till half past ten. Then I put my hair into curl- papers and got into bed at eleven o'clock. I went to you in spirit and dreamt that I was kissing Baby Toto and making big Toto jealous. This is the complete his- tory of my morning up to date; now I shall dress, breakfast, and go for a walk in the meadows with the maid. Farewell, dearest, until this afternoon’s happiness. Always yours in love and longing. I love you with alf my whole heart, I embrace you in spirit, I adore you with my whole soul, I admire you with every faculty of my mind. Think of me, come to me, come to me as soon as possible. My arms, my cheek, my whole ve await you. On the 8th of March, moved to a somewhat commodious apartment, 14, Rue St. Anastase, at eight hundred francs a year. It com- prised a drawing-room, dining room, one bedroom, a kitchen, and an attic in which her servant slept. Her mode of life was not calculated to enliven her. A degree of poverty border- ing on squalor simplified its details. Lit- tle or no fire: Juliette sometimes even lacks the logs she is by way of providing for herself. Then she spends the morn- ing reading, in bed, planning, day-dream- ing. When she rises, the cold does not prevent her from writing cheerfully, “If you seek warmth in this room you will have to seek it at the bottom of my heart. This strict economy was necessary be- cause Juliette was still paying the debts incurred four years before. 1836, Juliette 2 p.m., Sunday, rst January, 1837. Your darling adorable letter has reached me. I have devoured it with ca- resses. Oh, how I love you! I have just sent my child out of the room so that might read it on my knees in front of your picture. These little pranks may seem foolish, but they contain a deeper, more sacred significance like the devotion that inspires them. When you come you will find me joyous and radiant as I was on that glorious day when you first revealed your love. My beloved, my heart, I am very happy. I am in Heaven, for you love me, my Toto . your dear letter has said it. Your eyes, your mouth, your soul will tell me so still better presently. Yes, indeed I am happy, lam surfeited. There is noth- ing left for me to desire or require—I have your love, a love which God Himself might envy were He a woman. Thank you, adored one, thank you from my heart and soul. I am as good as gold, believe me. Juju. This letter is evidently written in a sarcastic vein induced by pique. 12.45 p. m., Wednesday, November 22nd, 183 I nay believe you do it on purpose; but you may be certain that I shall pay you back in the same kind: indifference for indifference; donnant donnant is my ea Now let us talk of other things. What do you think of the taking of Constan- tine? I cannot believe the present min- istry will survive long as at present con- stituted; Thiers and Barot may be called upon at any moment to form a new cab- inet. What is your opinion? The com- mercial crisis is still making itself felt in the markets; oils of every description have gone down; for instance, rape oil which was at 47 is now only at 45. A re- covery is looked for next year, but I have my doubts about it, haven’t you? Do you not agree with me that all this points to a revolution in the near future, which will entail sinister results for W ail- ly’s government? For my part, I view with consternation the removal of the Carlists from St. Jean Pied de Port to Painboeuf, after a sojourn at St. Méné- hould. I am already sick of the recital of the horrors which disturb the digestion and the tranquillity of the citizens, of whom you are the chief ornament. Pray accept the expression of my distinguished consideration. Juliette. Pradier would have liked Victor Hugo and his friend to undertake the sole responsibility of his daughter Claire, but they prudently declined to do so, though they lavished kind- ness, caressing letters, advice, and treats, upon the little girl. At times Victor Hugo himself wrote affec- tionately to his friend’s child. It is neces- sary to read these letters, so full of thought- ful tenderness, to gain a better knowledge of the warmth of the poet’s heart. Much will be forgiven him in consideration of it. “We love you very much,” he wrote to Claire on the 23rd of May, 1833, “and you have a sweet mother who, though absent, thinks a great deal about you. You must get well quickly and thank the good God in your prayers every night for giving you such a good mother, as she on her part thanks Him for her charming little daughter.” When in 1841, after several disappoint- ments, Hugo was elected to the French Academy Juliette wrote to him as follows: 6 p. M., Thursday, January 7th, 1841. I am enchanted for everybody’s sake, my dear Academician, that at last you are elected. There you are at last, thanks to the seventeen votes of your friends and in spite of your fifteen adversaries. You are an Academician. Hurrah! I love you. Juliette. Juliette lived for a time at Auteuil, with her dying daughter, in a house belonging to the sculptor Pradier. Victor Hugo visited her there nearly every day. Shortly after the death of Claire she wrote Hugo a letter full of the sorrow which she felt at the loss of her child. 9 a. m., April 29th, 1847. Good-morning, my adored Victor. My thoughts and soul and heart go out to you in this greeting. I hope I shall see you before you go to the re- hearsal, for if I do not, I shall have to wait till this evening, which would in- crease my depression. From now until the anniversary of the terrible day on which I lost my poor child, every hour and every minute is punctuated by the recollection of the sufferings of that poor little thing and of the anguish I went through. They are painful memories, impossible to exclude from my thoughts. Last night while I lay sleepless I seemed to hear her, and in my dreams I saw her again as she looked at the close of her ill- ness. I am worn out this morning. All the pangs and fatigues of the last mo- ments of her life weigh down my heart and limbs. It may be that I shall find com- fort in prayer, and I shall pray better by her side, buoyed up by the hope that she will hear me and obtain for me resignation enough to bear her absence without mur- mur or bitterness. It was you who gave me the courage to live. All that a heart can gain from consolation I found in your love; but there is a grief surpassing all others and beyond human aid, for which only God can provide, and to Him I must address myself today. Juliette. (To be concluded in the October issue)

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ve ee OV SY There is but one silk drap- ery that is abso- lutely guaranteed not to fade in either sun or water. ANA |, L// \euar NTEED ~ CAPOCK TRADE MARK fadeable silk. We are enabled to extend to Kapock patrons a courtesy through which they can obtain for them- selves at no cost whatever, valuable articles in gold, silver, or household furnishings. You are invited to write us for details. The basting thread on the reverse side of Kapock Silks is your guarantee that we will refund your money if they fade in Iilil | Ill) sun or water. enable you to use silk with permanent color for your draperies— complete array of colors and designs. Cost less than half the price of A. Theo. Abbott & Company Dept. J. Philadelphia 3j Continual Delight “without a Sun Dial Te LL Add Charm to Your~ Garden and be a Source of ven the Smallest Garden is > am Gatoway TERRA@TIA ©. 329g WALNUT ST. PHILADELPHIA. Very Low Summer Rates Calling at St. Georges and Hamilton. S. S. Caribbean Largest steamer in the trade. ¢ Son, Gen. Agts. , 22 State St. 22 State S & Bermuda, 39 20 min. Quebec 8. 8. Average Summer Temperature 79° Authorized by Dept. Bermuda Gov't. Sailing Weekly—Tickets Interchangeable. The Roya! Mail Steam Packet em 2 Sanderson w= §,S. Bermudian 10,518 Tons Dis; J Holds speed record, ee = Ltd.,A.E. Outerbridge & C 0., Agts., 29 B’y, wy a any Ticket Agent. Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 For Booklets apply to above 8S. 8. Cos. or As Good as it is Beautiful You are not deceived when you look at a sheet of Crane’s Linen Lawn. It is just as good as it looks. It looks best when com- pared with the best writing papers you know. You do not compare silk with cot- ton. You compare it with other silks. You do not compare a diamond with a brilliant. You compare it with other diamonds. No matter how high the standard set Cranes ofinen oon [THE CORRECT \.WRITING PAPER] will show its birth and breeding — the writing paper without fear and without reproach. Write to us for full-size sam- with the new Darcy envelope. ple sheets of Crane’s Linen Ten cents in coin or stamps Lawn, including a new style will bring these samples. which has recently been cre- When you write your next ated — the Elizabethan—a letters on them you will rich, dignified, paneled paper thank us for the suggestion. 8Y INVITATION MEMBER OF Address all inquiries to Dept. K EATON, CRANE & PIKE COMPANY New York; Pittsfield, Mass. RICE LEADERS OF THE WORLD ASSOCIATION are ‘‘as a cloud before the sun’ hiding your brightness, your beauty. Why not removethem? Don'tdelay. Use STILLMAN’S cre" Made especially to remove freckles. Leaves the skin clear, smooth and with- out a blemish. Prepared by specialists with years of experience. Money re- funded if not satisfactory. 50c per jar. Write todav for particulars and free booklet, “Wouldst Thou Be Fair’’ Contains many beauty hints,and describes a number of elegant Dp ible to the . Sold by all druggists. STILLMAN CREAM CO. Aurora, Ill A Really Beautiful Woman further enhances her beauty by using MARCHIONESS ROUGE Itgives a natural, soft, rosy glowtothecomplexionthat is an absolute counterfeit of nature’s tint. Not affect- ed by perspiration and remains until washed off. Price 50c. Send ten cents for trial tube that will con- vince you ofits superiority. ioness Manufacturing Co. 235 Superior Ave., N. W. Cleveland, Ohio Dr. Dys’ interesting booklet sent free on request are wonderful. Personal Treatment at Darsy’s Desirable The scientific facial treatments at V. Darsy’s are a revelation. Peace and restfulness reign supreme at this delightful little French Shop around the corner from Fifth Avenue. The Face and Neck Treatments Tired nerves are soothed and lines disappear as if by magic. Treatments $2.00 and up. ’ are very superior. A box of Dr. Dys Home Treatments seven of the best prepara- tions is offered for $2 postpaid- to those who have never expe- rienced their benefits. ordering this little box. V. DARSY, Dept. ‘‘B,’’ 14 West 47th St., State tint of face powder preferred when | saceerFoRqunavaw New York City —N FEY a] ’ GIRLS ! For your vacation kit have you thought of the appearance of your jinger nails ? There are lots of possibilities connected with a Manicure Outfit. It is not the money you save by owning one of our F. B. Manicure Outfits, but the pleasure you get out of it by doing s me- thing for yourself, or for those you care for. F. B. ‘‘Needlepoint”’ Cuticle Scissors The most es Sential instru- ment in manif@curing, the scissors, and§@it should be an F.B.“* NEE \@i DLEPOINT"” CUTIC£ES 2 SCISSORS, because ourW@—escissors are correctly made. Be careful. Gi Be sure it is stamped with GM our F.B. trade- mark, and the@Mword, ‘ NEE- DLEPOI NT." i Some dealers have a scissors HM Stamped wiih a word that looks like “NEEDLE POINT,” of inferior quali ty. Ours costs@@$i.00 each. F. B. Manicure Outfit _No. 956 B F. B. Manicure Outfit No. 956 B, as illustrated, can be used by anyone wishing to manicure, and consists of F. B. Manicure File, F. B. Cuticle Scissors, F. B. Nail Scissors, F. B. Cuticle Knife, F. B. Emery Boards, F. B. Manicure Stick, F. B. Nail Buffer, jar of Polpasta, box of F. B. Nail Powder, box of Manipum, bottle of Forc.ga, and a bottle of Manso. Packed in a solid, leatherette covered case. This outfit will be sent to you, free of all post charges, upon receipt of $2.50, and if you are not entirely satisfied, we will gladly refund you the amount of your remittance. F. B. Manicure Preparations POLPASTA, a nail polish, perjar 25¢. FORONGA, a nail bleach, per bottle 25c. MANIPUM, anail pumice, per box 15c. MANSO, a nail soap, per bottle 25c. F. B. NAIL POWDER, «@ select polish, per box 25¢ We pay all didtiedius charges. Let us hear from you. We will send you information about the care of your finger nails free of charge. Emile Forquignon Co. 108 Lafayette Street, New York

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More for Your Money as large as the 10-cent size. more for your money. See how long it lasts. Quaker Oats is now put up also in a 25-cent size nearly three times By saving in packing it offers you ro per cent Look at the Big Luscious Flakes There Lies the Quaker Flavor A glance will tell you where Quaker Oats excels. mammoth flakes come only from the rich, plump grains. We sift out those grains—rejecting all others—so we get ten pounds of Quaker Oats from a bushel. Look at the flakes—the very sight will delight you. Cook them and the aroma. Then taste them. That flavor is yours for the asking. Quaker, and at no extra price. It means more delightful breakfasts. a larger consumption of this energy food, needed by all who work. It means better brains and bodies. Be wise enough to get it. Quaker Oats The Favorite of a Hundred Nations Quaker Double Cooker It m Extra Large ideal way. This Cooker is made to bring Quaker Oats cent packages or two 25-cent to your table in their most delicious form. It insures you the fullness of their food value and flavor. That is our only interest in it. In 600,000 homes now using Quaker Cookers these flakes are now served at their best And we hope in time to have every user serve them in that way this costly Cooker will be sent by parcel When you use Quaker Oats to get th way. Send to Send us our trademark—the picture of the Quaker—cut from s50 cents’ worth of Quaker Oats That is, from five of the 10- 10c and 25c per Package Except in Far West and South Those but That selection, plus our process, has made this the favorite oat food of the world. note You will realize then how luscious oats can be. You get it always when you order eans Made to our order, of heavy Extra Heavy pure aluminum. Offered to Cereal Capacit users of Quaker Oats, so ee these delicious flakes may 4 Quarts everywhere be cooked in the packages. That will prove you a Quaker Oats user. Send one dollar with the trademarks, and post. It is subject to return if it doesn’t delight you. he ut- most in oat food, cook them in this perfect The Quaker Oats Company Railway Exchange, Chicago (635) l’arper's Bazar, September, 1914 THE SMALL Vs. THE LARGE HAT Both from the brim and from the bronzed numidie this brown velvet toque from C. M. Phipps gains its height. crown and the birds perched on this black velvet sailor from Knox. Silver sequins and metallic threads glisten from the C. M. Phipps gives an air of “bigness” to a brown velvet toque by a coque pompon and tails. Cab irila (Continued from page 21) undoubtedly accomplished the most difficult feat ever suggested in this art. However, in spite of all this, I still think of the frail arm of Daphne converted into a leafy branch, for I bélieve the true function of the cinematograph is transfiguration; and I be- lieve that Ovid is its poet. Sooner or later, the poetry of the ‘‘ Metamorphoses” will en- chant the masses who today delight only in loathsome buffooneries. In every one of our myths there is a profound revelation, a happy lesson, sometimes a wonderful message. I say, without a shadow of irony, that a good bath of Mediterranean mythology would be of incalculable value to the moving picture public. “Primus amor Phoebi Daphne Peneia. And when, like the fantastic intestines con- trived by Leonardo, the motion pictures shall have invaded every stage and driven out the vicious and unwholesome spectacles of today, then only shall we hope to see coming towards us the Invoked and Expected One: the “fine, strong son” of Gordon Craig’s prophecy, con- ceived in the shade of the eternal hills, like those winds of Spring which bear strong herbs in their wild mouths, guiding a flock of strange birds flying toward us in the form of the Thyr- sus of Dionysius and of the iyre of Apollo. The story of Cabiria When the Roman Republic in the third century B. C. was fighting the rival empires of Carthage and Greece, the story begins. Cabiria, a little girl, is saved from death by her nurse on the day when Catana, a city in Sicily, suffers from an earthquake and erup- tion of Mount Etna. The father, Batto, be- lieves his child to have perished in the ruins of their house, but she is carried to the sea- shore by the nurse, where they take refuge on an apparently abandoned boat. The boat be- longs to some Phoenician pirates who have landed to cut wood. The pirates capture Cabiria and the nurse and convey them to Carthage. The girl is sold to the high priest, Karthalo, who intends to offer her as a sacri- fice to the god Moloch. On the day set for the great religious cere- mony, the nurse tries to save the child, pre- tending that she is ill and consequently not acceptable to the god. The fraud is immedi- ately discovered and the nurse is flogged. She afterwards meets-a Roman, Fulvius Axilla, and his powerful slave, Maciste, who have been living secretly in Carthage, watching the politics of the rival republic. The old nurse beseeches them to save Cabiria. They agree to do so, and go to the Temple, mingling with the faithful shortly before the ceremony. At the moment the high priest raises Cabiria to cast her into the seething furnace in the belly of the bronze idol, the slave Maciste rushes forward, overthrows the priest and carries off the child, followed by Fulvius. The nurse is caught, however, and killed. Fulvius from his hiding place in a wineshop, hearing that Hannibal has crossed the Alps and is menacing Rome, decides to leave Car- thage in order to reach Rome before the siege begins. Favoured by darkness, he escapes by plunging into the sea and swimming out to a boat. Maciste is hiding meanwhile in a gar- den with the child Cabiria. At that moment Sophonisba, daughter of Hasdrubal, chief of the Carthaginian Repub- lic, and her intended husband, Massinissa, the Numidian King, come into the garden and discover Maciste and the girl. Maciste pleads with them to save Cabiria from sacrifice. Overcome by pity, Sophonisba takes Cabiria to her father’s palace and there secretes her. The slave Maciste is made pris- oner and condemned to work the remainder of his life attached by chains to a grinding mill. Cabiria, now the slave of Sophonisba, is re- named Elissa. Fulvius, arriving in Rome from Carthage, joins the proconsul. Marcellus, in the siege of Syracuse, the ally of Carthage. Archimedes, a Greek, by means of rays of light reflected from mirrors, causes the Ro- man fleet, with which Fulvius was sailing, to burn to the water’s edge. Fulvius saves him- self by swimming to the coast; there he subse- quently reaches the house of Cabiria’s parents, and tells them that their child still lives. Fate agains favours Fulvius by making him one of Scipio’s generals during the siege of Carthage. One night he penetrates unob- served into the city to explore the enemy’s de- fenses. Returning to the tavern he formerly frequented, he learns where his faithful slave Maciste is confined and releases him from the millstone. Reunited, Fulvius and Maciste set out for Hannibal’s camp. On the way they are captured by men from the army of Syphax, King of Cirta, an ally of the Carthaginians, and are locked in the cellar of Hasdrubal’s palace, condemned to die of thirst. A slave girl, taking pity on them, gives them water through the bars of their prison. The slave is Cabiria, but they do not recog- nize her, Sophonisba, the daughter of Hasdrubal, disturbed by dreams, is convinced that her country’s misfortune (Carthage being be- sieged by the Romans) is due to the wrath of the god Moloch. She believes that this is her punishment for having taken from him the victim, Cabiria. Sophonisba confides in the priest, Karthalo, whom she has asked to interpret her dreams, and presents Elissa to him. The priest recog- nizes in her the little Cabiria who was torn away from him ten years before in the temple by the Roman slave Maciste. Maciste, from a hiding place, ov erhears the interview between the priest and the slave girl, and learns that she is the long lost Cabiria, now grown to beautiful womanhood and called Elissa. The priest tells Elissa the price she must pay for her life. Maciste kills the high priest and rescues Elissa. But he and Fulvius are again overpowered and Elissa is sent back to Sophonisba, who condemns her to die But Sophonisba herself commits suicide by poison rather than submit to the Roman yoke, and out of ‘gratitude to Fulvius, who procured her the poison, restores Elissa to him. The war ends. The fleet sails back to Rome. On one of the vessels Fulvius and Elissa return to Italy, where they are finally united in marriage.

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A necessity and luxury for every boudoir [O /“DAMASCUS"| NOWN as ‘The Aristo- I Kc of Safety Pins,”’ and the choice of dis- | criminating women every- | where for dress use. | Being made of slender but || strong tempered steel wire || with smooth, stiff, needle | points, they pierce any mate- | rial from tough leather to the | finest silk, without “‘pucker- | ing” itand withoutbending out || of shape or ‘“hooking’’ over. The flat safety ‘‘shield’’ is con- | structed to permit of opening or | | || closing from either side, a particu- || larly desirable feature. Fabric can- not get caught or tangled in the sheathed coil end. Damascus is || handsomely made in three finishes— Nickel, Black and Gold, and in 6 sizes, from 15/16 to 2-3/16 inches long. Always look for the Oakville Trade Mark on every card | or paper of Pins you buy. Oakville Company Waterbury, Conn. | Makers also of Clinton Never-Rust Nursery | Pins,the standard for over 31 years. and Sovran, | the ““king pin’’ of ‘‘common’’ Pins “Mum” (as easy to use as to say) A finger-tip of this snow-white, : unscented cream prevents all odors of perspiration and keeps the body and clothing fresh and sweet throughout the hottest day. Does not check perspiration; just neutralizes all odors. Lasts from bath to bath. 25c at drug- and department-stores. ““Mum”’ Mfg Co 1106 Chestnut St Philadelphia ie Genuine Walrus Bag Guaranteed or Mone: Leather Lined, Three rench Sew ges, Corners, Braesed Key Lock and Catch. Just the thing for your trip. Catalog on request, Sold y Pp $7.50 to $10.00. By parce! post, prepaid, $5.00, Choice of 16 or 18 inch, Send today. AUSTIN'S SHOPS, 31 Court St.. Binghamton, N, Y. PREPAID Is it not Beautiful? | | RET Seer a | : Eas = P W i i o WW | | Si § 8 ~~ We exhibited this, together | with one hundred other original models from the leading French houses. The a lines of ““Tantine”’ were new then. Ever since, they have |S been in evidence in the season’s smartest gowns. Our 1m t FALL EXHIBITION yom Sept. 8th to 19th inc., to i | i DRESSMAKERS AND »« LADIES’ TAILORS a va ; ; i ill again reflect the unusual in the modes to be, and will conclusively demonstrate the true value of the f{ Brady Service to Dressmakers and Ladies’ Tailors. | a __Invitation issued only on receipt of business card. * at ? C0 i i e « e a Wl a IMPORTERS FABRICS LACES GARNITURES MM 22-24-26 West 34th St., New York PARIS BOSTON CHICAGO TORONTO NE of Madame Sara’s La Patricia Corsets, custom-made to your indi- vidual figure, is indispensable as a correct foundation for the fitting of the new Fall costumes. A La Patricia Corset will en- hance the beauty of the modistes creations. Ready-to-wear models, made expressly for Madame Sara from her own designs. Corsets especially de- signed for motoring, modern dansant, and décolleté wear. At $5.00 and upwards. Dainty, soft and clinging Pantalettos, made of Italian silk—the popular substitute for petticoats this Fall. Price $5.00. Fig Leaf Chemise, with and without shoulder straps. Price $1.50. BOSTON CIA NEW gee 120 A Boylston cORSE. — * ith Street reet SHOPS lor School | a0 Collegiate Harper’s Bazar, September, 1914 73 7 ¥. v q ’ ¥ i | z Ag he: hy ¥ Fal: 4. : Bas a Satetye® } Self-Filling | Types» | Pen points of \ | every degree N to suit )) YZ your Y hand / —_ BY BEST DEALERS V EVERYWHERE \ | Every Waterman’s Ideal is care- fully made and thoroughly tested. It is the most helpful implement for all kinds of writing. It is always ready and accurate in use. Waterman’s Ideal is one of the student’s necessities for clean, accurate and economical work. One Waterman’s Ideal will last for many years. The Safety Type Waterman’s Ideal is designed especially for ladies’ use. Illustrated Folder on Request. Look for the Globe Trade Mark to avoid substitutes. L. E. Waterman Company 173 Broadway, New York on, Chicago. San Francisco, Montreal, London, Paris.

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ODART (ORSETS Front Laced

Model X 439 Price $5.00 Model D 490 Price $10.00 You must see this corset to fully appreciate why it is called the season's best cor- set value. It has a wide strip of elastic in the back providing the necessary ex- pansion for absolute com- fort- has long, sweeping lines, a low, easy bust, grad- uating to a medium high back and finished with handsomely embroidered ia = trimming of special design. Model X 439 is made partic- ularly for the average figure that wishes a good medium boned substantial corset. Write for Your Copy of the Modart Style Book for Fall In it the latest Modart designs are illustrated and described. All Modart Corsets lace in front because, in a corset, Front Adjustment means Right Adjustment. They are as perfect as years of specialization in one type of corset can make them. Model D 490 has a large elastic section on each side of the front clasp and one at the side of the back. The corset laces clear to the bottom in front, making an excellent corset for the figure with extremely large thighs. It has plenty of room in the back above the waist and will take care of a rather large bust be- cause of plenty of room through the diaphragm. A trial fitting is essential to a true appreciation of MODART comfort and style. Modart Corset Co. New York Office Studios and Shops 553 Fifth Ave. Saginaw, Mich. A complete line of MODART designs can be seen at the prin- cipal stores throughout the United States, among whom are - Pittsburgh, Joseph Horne Company St. Louis, The Famous & Barr Company San Francisco, Raphael Weill & Co. Kansas City, John Taylor D. G. Co. Boston, VWVm. Filene’s Sons Co. § John Wanamaker New York, ? Saks & Company \ Carson, Pirie, Scott& Co. Chicago. } Marshall Field & Co. Harper's Bazar, September. ror4

reces DECORATIVE DESK SETS country house decoration. | painted desk set embodying the Danish art. The strong, bold colouring of Art Fayence China makes it especially suited for The Royal Copenhagen Porcelain Co. show a hand The price is $15.00. The Well Built Girl (Continued from page 27) | piled one on top of the other with sections of cartilage, a spongy material, as cushions be- tween the bodies. The arches form a con- tinuous canal through which the spinal cord passes from the brain, sending out pairs of | nerves through the various openings, to the parts of the body which they are to control. The vertebrae are joined at the side projec- tions of the bony arch, and are held together by ligaments and controlled by several layers of muscles. In this way perfect flexibility is | possible. In infancy and early childhood the spinal column is practically straight but very early | four curves appear which are normal, elastic and graceful. These are all front to back curves, forward in the cervical or neck, back- ward in the dorsal or shoulders, forward in | the lumbar or waist, and again backward in the sacral region. These curves support the weight of the body better than a straight line | and also tend to distribute any jars or shocks in walking, etc.,and so protect the brain. Now, a curve once started is easy to increase and we find that when there is a tendency to carry the head forward,—sometimes due to weak posterior neck muscles, sometimes to defects in sight and hearing,—the added weight forward increases the curve of the dorsal spine and we get a round back. This in turn depresses the breast bone or sternum, and decreases the chest capacity. The lungs have no room in which to expand, and the shallow breathing which naturally follows does not supply the necessary oxygen or remove | the accumulated COg. Poorer circulation is | another result and a lowered vitality. The cramped lungs are easy prey for all lung troubles, bronchitis, pneumonia and tuber- culosis. Just because some little girl wants to be up- to-date, she carries her head forward, de- presses her chest, cramps her lungs, cuts off her oxygen supply, accumulates poison in her blood, weakens her heart action and circula- tion and lowers her vitality. It is bad enough when grown, fully developed women follow this fad, but it is deplorable and startling when the physical examinations of high school girls and even those in the grammar grades show definitely the effects of this style. I know absolutely that these facts are true. There are other evils of posture which fol- low the depressed chest. The hips are car- ried forward and a protruding abdomen is the result. The walls of the abdominal cavity are made up of layers of muscles. These be- come weakened and relaxed and allow the abdominal muscles to sag, often considerably away from their normal position. This, of course, interferes with the performance of their natural functions. The diaphragm, that big arched muscle which separates the chest from the abdominal cavity, is an important factor in breathing. It flattens out to allow the lungs to expand and arches again to help force out the impure | air. Another important function lies in the

pressure it exerts on the liver, squeezing out its contents at every inspiration. When the chest is contracted, only the upper part of the lung is used and the diaphragm nearly goes out of commission. As a result we have a sluggish liver, constipation and stomach troubles. Another danger in faulty posture is the tendency to one-sided development, even when not attended by any spinal curvature. It is not uncommon to see uneven shoulders and one hip higher or larger than the other. These usually come from such bad habits of posture as standing on one foot (always the same foot), carrying books under one arm, twisted posi- tion at a desk or in reading, and even a pet position in bed. These bad habits should be watched carefully, for besides the unsymmet- rical development of the figure, there is dan- ger of a permanent curve of the spine with the attendant nerve pressure and interference with the circulation. Remember that the spinal column is extremely flexible and is con- trolled by many small muscles. It is easy to fall in the habit of stretching the muscles of one side and contracting the opposite or an- tagonistic group. Soon the contracted mus- cles lose their power to relax and the spine is permanently pulled to one side. In the cultivation of good posture it is wholly unadvisable to adopt one position and stick to it. Usually the person who does this is rigid and wearisome to the eye. She has lost the power to relax and is using up valu- able nervous energy. Cultivate symmetrical habits both in action and relaxation. Carry your books or bag as often in the right arm as the left. At your desk, writing, studying or reading, see that you do not fall into the very common fault of raising the right shoulder and contracting the muscles on the left side of the trunk. If you find you have been doing so, counteract it by raising your left arm and bending to the right, thus stretch- ing out the contracted side. It is not nat- ural to stand at rest with the weight of the body equally on both feet, but be sure that the shifting of weight is not always to the same side. In the matter of shoulders, don’t above all things “‘put them back.” It gives a stiff, con- tracted shoulder position and nine times out of ten will increase the curve at the waist, caus- ing a “sway-back,” which is undesirable. The main point to consider is the head. If it is held up so that the back of the neck presses the collar (real or imaginary), the chest will be raised and the shoulder blades will fall into their normal flattened position and the hips cannot be carried forward if the chest is prop- erly raised. The head you see is the strategic point. In my own early days I was constantly ad- monished “Stomach in, and chest out.” Today my war cry is “Reach up with your heads.” The subject of next month’s article will be “Health in the Home.” | Reflections of Floriline Schopenhauer We women are different. People who differ about everything else always agree on that. It is for us to be lustrous, with jewels for our exclusive parure—a parure, parenthetically, which, like any food that is fit to eat, ought to be prepared, and in the next generation probably will be, at home. In what volcanic cataclysm the heliodor first refracted an antediluvian sunset, poets alone may surmise. Otherwise were my dear father here, he would, I am sure, be able to suggest how it could be reproduced—the helio- dor I mean, not the sunset; though perhaps the sunset too and the cataclysm with it. But the elements of other baubles are so simple that he used to say that any good

74 (Continued from page 31) hausfrau should know how to serve them at once. In the case of diamonds all that is needed is time and carbon. Carbon anybody can dish, but for time which dishes us all, sub- stitute heat, real heat, the heat of an electric crucible, heat equal to that of the throne of Satan, and the result will be carbon in a crystal form, which is precisely what the dia- mond is. Similarly, from silica, opals come. The receipt for rubies reads: First catch your alumina. Given then but an oven and a little cook < and we women ought not to have to send to a jeweler for our groceries any more.

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THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL It Teaches the Gospel of Comfort, Utility, Beauty and Harmony In the minor things of life we are non-partisans—men of moods and women of whims. In matters of the home we are enthusiasts. Home is the basis of culture, of education and civilization. A nation can be no greater than its homes! “House Beautiful” is essentially a magazine for home-makers and home-lovers. It is helpful, interesting, beautiful. Some special articles in the big September number: Building a Fire-Proof House A Home at Oyster Bay Preserving Old Land Marks Preparing for Spring The Village Improvement Society Designing a Bungalow Garden Old Italian Furniture. August Roses Home Lighting Service Illuminated by many instructive illustrations. Six Months for One Dollar Yearly subscription price, $3.00. As a Special Introductory Offer to new readers, we will send THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL for Six Months for $1.00; and also present you with THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL PORTFOLIO DE LUXE, a collection of art color plates picturing and describing a series of unusually attrac- tive interior effects.

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The House Beautiful, ERTS Sas SRNL. penne Oe 432 Fourth Ave., New York City, N. Y. H. B. 9 Gentlemen: For enclosed $1.00, send us your Portfolio of Interior Decoration and THE HOUSE BEAUTIFUL for six months beginning

ESTABLISHED FOR 50 YEARS H. JAECKEL & SONS WEST THIRTY-SECOND STREET WUMBER SIXTEEN New York

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Presenting the

4 I ‘HE standard magazine of art in the English language and the most beautiful maga- zine published. ; La : To cater in every way to our a 4 ‘ readers’ love of the beautiful and to & , foster the constant trend toward greater culture and refinement in per- y iy SG BB 3 Be PY YS Ne < sonal surroundings are the primary objects of The International Studio Every issue contains at least six exquisite color plates and from 100 to 150 of the finest half-tone reproductions of works of art of every description; also special articles on the progress of art throughout the civilized world. The September and October numbers will be largely devoted to Architec- ture and Interior Decoration with special refe ence to the home. The subscription price is $5.00 a year — soc a copy. we will enter your trial cuperietion. for 3 mente | to For $1 0 include the above sp and N JOHN LANE COMPANY, 1100 Cayler Building, New York

newest novelties

in footwear Mail Service Broadway at 25th Street, New York

Harper’s Bazar, September, 1914

Page 78

strap. A practical dancing slip- per with a supporting ankle brocade combinations with ora a3 suaTer COvRTESY of satin and ts. r Fancy lace patent leather oxfords with inlay of black and white vesting cloth. A serviceable morning gaiter boot, patent leather vamp and coloured cloth or ooze uppers. reason in the world to doubt that it will hold its own. The shawls thus far have been in crépe de Chine, both plain and embroidered, with wide fringed ends. The materials for the new gowns and tailor made are heavy weight gabardines, cache- mires, duvetyns, whiplines, smooth zibelines with high lustre finish, and diagonal ribbed serges. Rodier, the fertile minded, has in- vented a new weave which combines all the softness and suppleness of broadcloth with the durability of tweed. It is called ‘“‘burella,” and in texture resembles a hopsacking with a camel’s-hair finish. Another novelty of prac- tically the same weave, but heavier, is called “‘agnella.” This is used for wraps and travel- ing coats. The ‘“chutedo,” which he launched last summer in the pale, delicate tints, is still to be used this winter, in the dark tones, which are the mode, mahogany, claret, dull olive, | beige, grays, and blue. Somewhat similar to the “‘chutedo” is the “ruissdor,’’ a diagonal ribbed velvet on a grenadine background; in fact, ribbed fabrics, or ‘“‘épinglés” as the French say, of all descriptions are to be used, in addition to stripes and poplins. The new poplins show an irregular ribbing resembling to some extent the Egyptian crépe of last sea- A > Zi a d , 7 son. 2 In trimmings, the most distinctive notes are a Je the gold, silver, and metal cloths. A gold GP ) 10061 ob cloth embroidered in white or black in the a Chinese patterns, called ‘‘ Lacquer,” is one of 4 Rodier’s creations; also cotton velvets or vel- u ‘brassiere veteens and a new cloth for suits called “ Anti- 4 a lopine,” which as its name suggests, resem- 4 NRESTRICTED bles suede and is made in that colour. It is soft "y : , " and supple in texture with a long thick pile. q waist, low bust Coudurier and Fructus, one of the most (1) and sott, supple important silk and velvet houses in Paris, is 2) li mje Sas ‘ showing many plain velvets, Venetian vel- =) ines are Fashion’s vets and Lyonnaise velvets, in all the dark 2) shades, ruby, bordeaux, golden brown, Saxe 4 ~= latest edict. They permit of that ‘“‘care- lessly careful’ grace of blue, old rose, old gold, and empire green. | Its fantasies are crépe de Chines, grena- dines, chiffons, satins and taffetas, brocaded, ribbed, striped and printed in velvets and . : lush. A dull oliv crépe de Chine bro- $ . i plu dull olive green crépe de re yi outline, at the same | caded in large splashing figures of velvet in {| time protecting the lines aang ar ig yee ye en a ot the figure. faille run with silver threads and printed with 7 tie eh orange and brown art nouveau figures. In the Lhe “flap” covering the non-rust hooks : , plain silks, failles, taffetas, and peau de soies 5 and eyes and extra-large arm-shields ‘ Q) | are in demand, particularly for evening wear. | make Model Brassieres do double ser- & | One cf the new fabrics from Coudurier uy vice. Made in a wide variety of fasten- ’ iy | Shows a long nappe velvet figure brocaded on { ings. Styles and fabrics for every occa- \ b |3 — ee gn o— sion, to fit every figure. The removable : bee a a J rustless boning facilitates laundering. q From Gaillot Guinot comes a new fabric J) Model in name—model in make. They model the figure into R | called “Cachemerinenne broché,” a damask a Perfection. r h | run with metal threads. This is used for i) | waistcoat and trimmings. They are also e If your dealer cannot supply you with Model Brassieres, write to BS homies in great reves ol ribbed or épinglé us direct. Our personal Guarantee on ev ery Brassiere. | silks run with gold threads on blue, black and Write today for the handsomest Brassiere Catalogue published. | violet grounds, and a Scotch striped radium showing seg printed with a velvet figure. In addition are howing over 50 newest style Brassieres. i i i i to be had chiffons printed with Chinese de- Price 50c to $6.00 signs, chiffons striped with velvet, and taffeta, on plain, striped and dotted in velvets and satins. e rassiere oO Some few moirés are still seen. Rodier, for A @ Us ata e { instance, has quite an assortment of moiré as ne hn” 4 f poplins with the moiré effect carried out in b>) Cuicaco 200 FirtH AVENVE, New York City BROOKLYN ) | narrow stripes and Gaillot Guinot has a very Ox Paris Dept. H San FRANCISCO Sms supple silk moiré, called Moiré Lyonnaise, of Y 2 | similar design. Moiré printed to resemble XY) YD — - : . % a paintings, heavy silk gabardines and chiffon Sg ‘ gabardines with printed all silk duvetyns, Harper's Basar, September, 1914 76 The instep is supported by a wide strap trimmed with large rhinestone buc- kle in this combination thé dansant slipper. The straps of this patent leather morning slipper give a web effect over the instep. For the afternoon there is a high lace boot with vamp, quarter and button fly of champagne kid and the upper in white kid. **HER FEET BENEATH HER PETTICOAT’’ Clearing the Course (Continued from page 43) called “‘duvetyns gabardines,’’ are among the other novelties of the house. For tailor mades, the chief materials from Gaillot Guinot are the velours de laines, plain and in brocade or ciselé, and a velours de laines with camel’s-hair finish. This latter is sold in all the military shades of khaki, blue, gray, and brown. One. word on hats. The large hat is again to the fore—the Princess Lamballe shape with graceful, undulating brim, and the Louis XIVth mousquetaire in soft felt, one side caught back abruptly to the crown. Trimmings are used with sparing hand, and include aigrettes, ribbons, jet, marabou in gray only, cock’s feathers, and ostrich feather fantasies with the long flued ostrich willow plume. On the large hats, these trimmings are placed flat upon the brim, while the small hats are trimmed in broad lines, wings, aigrettes and ribbon bows shooting out from either side of the crown. The high towering effects are done with. The materials from which the hats are fashioned consist largely of beaver, plush, velvets, silks, and soft felts. The maison Virot is using a new fabric called “*soie velouté,”’ which is a silk with a velvet fin- ish. This is very glossy,very supple,very light. One of their smartest hatS in the sailor shape was covered with this soie velouté in dove gray. The brim, faced with navy blue velvet and slashed at each side, was rolled slightly at the edges and trimmed at the slashes with pairs of tiny dove-coloured wings. Another of their hats was of blue felt trimmed with a large bow of blue satin ribbon run with wide velvet Scotch plaid stripes. This ribbon was drawn tight over the crown, with stripes running lengthwise instead of in the ordinary transverse direction, and was bowed into a single loop at the back. Around the crown was twisted a narrow, flat band, hardly half an inch in width, of tube-shaped crystal beads. This is one of the new notes of the house, rib- bons of beads, and they are using them in all colours and in white. Other houses are using large single beads in dull colours as the only trimming on the flat broad-brimmed hats of silk and plush. Carlier is making many Napoleon First hats of beaver with brims turned up abruptly both in back and in front, and Madame Nip- pert, who is now connected with the house, told me that for them the very newest idea was the hat made without a sign of a founda- tion, just a slender strip of wire curved to the form of the head and sufficient to hold the ruffles or draperies of velvet and plush. Dove gray, beige, brown, dark navy blue, and white are to be the favourite colours. Lewis features for the year the tri-corne and the large flat Louis XVIth shape in white moiré, white silk, and white felt, and these he trims with ermine, or with gold or silver flow- ers, and metal passementerie bands. He also uses considerable monkey fur as trimming for his small walking hats. Camille Roger is still faithful tothe large sailor shape, ‘“‘vraie canotier,” and one of her models in dark blue velvet is trimmed with dark blue cock’s feathers laid flat and cover- ing both brim and crown. At the side of the crown is perched an aigrette formed of scarlet velvet camellias. Veils promise to be rather more in evidence, particularly the heavy appliqué lace veil. A novelty veil sketched for HARPER’S Bazar is of wide single thread mesh, with the vine de- sign appliquéd so that it just covers the nose; a harem veil reversed as it were.

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¢ Y Every gown I make is proof that the woman is greater than the vogue. I build gowns inspired by individualism— the ina is merged into the personality. Wonder of color, grace of line, beauty of material and individualism are the keynotes of my success. My little bookiet explains how I com- bine Parisian ideas with Homer ideals at prices that are reasonable. May I send it to you? “Your service is different’’ F one is to serve the public, one must serve all alike. The Bazar Personal Shop- ping Service is. not influenced by the size of your orders. Gowns Adaptable With or Without Corset For bathing in the briny surf, For basking in the sand, For golfing on the grassy turf, For roaming meadow land, For garbing in the fashion's art, | For dressing negligee, 1114 West 37th Street, New York There is no request so trivial which does not receive our best z - * e For waltzing to a dreamy strain, attention. There 1s no For marching in the ranks, e ° In ears 0 our 1 e For riding through a shady lane, order so small which is For playing girlish pranks, For strolling on the promenade, For feeling comfy, looking smart, Wear O-V-I-D-A. not filled promptly and —Bv— For boating on the bay, For resting or for working hard, properly. HENRY SMITH WILLIAMS, M.D., LL.D. Wear O-V-I-D-A. Author of Reduces at Once 2 to 4 Inches. fs 4 “A History of Science,” ‘The Effect of Alcohol,” Made ay Six Models This little letter | “The Sci £ Happi pS With or Without Shoulder Straps. e Science oO ppiness peneoe Minsteteet, acteaiiientiy contoured i E: that exe -sa te C 4 from one of our many ‘ T HE secrets of keeping young, how to overcome many common ills | | iy contract a tbomaneeel reproduce the perfect pleased patrons speaks and be relieved from the danger of many others. The author | |f eminne mode AR ole the teak nertoct resents in a most interesting way, free from all technical detail, the] |] Figure-Shaping and Health-Protecting Gar- for itself :— | |latest scientific achievements that point the way to health and long life. | |J ™°m* ever invented. Regular sizes, 32 to 52. By heeding the warnings and following the authoritative advice in||] Look for the Label Cvida | |Dr. Williams’ remarkable volume thousands can actually add many Protected by U.S. Patent No. 44411 “Dear Miss Jarvis:— | | years to their lives and moreover add to the pleasures of living. It isa SOLD AT LEADING STORES . book of health for every home. AND CORSETIERES. Thank you for sending me , Send for Handsome Booklet K of the toys. Your service seems Illustrated. Price $1.00 net Fall Styles different,—I know there are : Gvida Company some who do not care to Inquire of Your Bookseller 15-17 W. 38th St., Dept. 4, New York bother with the little things. muce_ | ROUND THEWORLD 3 CENTS Travel de Luxe, perfected by 73 years experience and I appreciate your kindness, — exclusive world-wide facilities. Tours leave during Sept., ; 1914 ae r and promise that my next INTERNAT alahe order will be more important. Ey Tl ] Oct., Nov., Dec., Jam. Small private parties, cultured 7S 8 Be. leadership. : ; AyD . Stimeveh, EGYPT and the NILE A Novel Newspaper devoted to Novels and Highest class Tours to the ORIENT, including Egypt, Mee. pe it hone rtant B ks Se ee 9 ey Re ag Mediter- po 00: 4 * Nov., Jan., «» March, Richmond, Va. THE really different REVIEW he oOM’S NILE STEAMERS A || leave Cairo every few days during the season for the Interesting Reading ee Information |] First and Second Cataracts, Sudan, etc. Also private Cunaie _ eos Unpublished ks steamers and dahabeahs for families and private parties. .— se of this | | Compares favorably with any standard American Paper as regards size, | | SOUTH AMERICA p style ani general make-up. Two Complete Tours of South America, including I po 5 Panama, leave Nov. 14 and Feb. 3. A novel and de- service is toserve. We —SEND FOR SAMPLE coPY— len ieedaeen ant to help you. INTERNATIONAL BOOK NEWS, ™° West sh Street, New York Send for Program desired Whether it or és 510 ~ a THOS. COOK & SON hat or $100 gown,— _ommmmmmemmmreiamae (msc ee ai oe. sagas of A Music Master Who 160 OFFICES ALL OVER THE WORLD Plays on Human Heart-Strings Cook's Traveler's Gheques Good Everywhere ADORABLE FLUFFY KITTENS Little balls of fur that endear themrelves to the entire house- hold as they grow into stately, beautiful Persian Cats. A child with a pet develops quickly and for life the admirable traits—affection and kindness. Black Short Haired Cattery ORADELL, N. J, N, ¥. Office, 112 B Carnegie Hall Tel., 3691 Columbus AUL Gift Guide for Season 1914 Now in active preparation. Ready for mail October first. More utiful than ever. 100 pages, brimful of valuable sug- gestions and hun- dreds of illus- Let me advise with you on your Spring purchases. —go will the name of David t Warfield be associated for generations to come. TTT JANE JARVIS Director HARPER’S BAZAR Special —4 Months $1.00 The regular price of The Theatre You have seen and admired and loved him—as well as other artists. Has it ever occurred to you how much you can add to your enjoymentof plays and players through The Theatre Magazine ? The Theatre Magazine brings you the entertainment of the theatre. Filled Magazine is 35c acopy. A dollar P “ a! Distin Personal - bill will bring it to you for the next —_ ae ae of sage a ax ie Moderate Sedna ; rv four months. articles of dramatic and musical in- pid engin A Shopping Se ice terest, and adorned with a handsome address © mn post 1 ca oa i tig acti a cover alone worth the price of the you may be placed 1100 Publishers’ Building Address ......--00---e0eeeeeees magazine, it has an entry into the Edition Limited. New York Re best American homes — yet its price pte a = is within reach of all. CUCU ECT CC eee BUFFALO, THE THEATRE MAGAZINE N. ¥. | — 8 W. 38th Street, New York Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 =~ TUUCPEEEUUUEEEEE OCDE PCC EEE TITIES s Established 41 Years ”

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i fi | le S| Pil; RY WW [! JM Gidding & Ca. New Paris Fashions For Autumn

Particular attention is directed to the fact that our foreign representatives, who returned from Paris on the last trip of the S. S. Vaterland, July 29th, brought with them very extensive importations. Additional shipments were received on the S. S. Olympic which arrived August 5th. prevention of further importations, In view of the immediate selection is advisable. GOWNS COATS MILLINERY WRAPS BLOUSES FURS SUITS Fitth Abenue, at 46th Street, Pew Pork aris Washington Cincinnati

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by any other name might be just as sweet —but a rouge by any other name cannot be quite so good as the famous beautifier and OF “blushifier” which rivals the tint of the rose— SUTOL : THE PERFECT ROUGE: \ dry rouge which imparts the natural bloom to the cheek. It cannot be detected, Not affected by perspiration, or sea-bathing—remains until removed by soap and water. 25 CENTS PER BOX Including Puff and Mirror

KOR él ~ & — LZ and will not injure the most delicate skin. ne c Sb ee" At all the better stores everywhere or by mail postpaid to THE ORIENTAL COMPANY 51 Ferry St.. New York City a WA: Rane iS} <P a Oran Owe Harper's Bazar, September, 1014 Miss | time since his Boston experience mentally, and the possibility of any change | from this peaceful existence never occurred to him. But one evening after dinner, as they sat together over their coffee and cigarettes, Cc icely said: ‘Tom, I know you ’re not expecting it, but I'm sailing Saturday.’ Sailing!” Maughm looked at her blankly. - Yes, g going home.’ “Home, Cicely?’ She laughed. ‘‘Why, yes, Tom, other peo- ple have homes, you know.” ‘Why, but you can t go.” “But I must, really.’ “Who will take care of the baby?” “Miss Ferguson is one of the best trained nurses I have ever seen, and Daisy’s mother——”’ Maughm made an impatient gesture. “Don’t you care for the boy, Cicely?” | “Yes, Tom. You know that I do. I wor- ship the little fellow.” Maughm put down his coffee cup, and paced the room, his hands behind his back. I don’t know what to say,” he said, stop- ping in front of her. “Tom, may I ask you a very impudent question? Do you ever see Miss Moreland now?” \ shadow crossed his features, a contrac- in of the eyebrows, an expression of annoy- ance. And Cicely Torrance, with the keen intuition of the woman who loves, saw it and was happy. “No,” he answered shortly. “Well, I had thought that perhaps she might come here while you went away for a trip—but I suppose that is impracticable.” ‘It is utterly impossible,” and he strode to the other end of the room, his face set in a deep frown. Finally he turned and smiled. “We will give you a little rest, Cicely, but not for very long. Take a vacation. We will get on somehow. Then come back to us, to the boy and to me—wil! you?’ Cicely slowly raised her eyes to his and after a little pause answered, softly: “Yes, Tom, I'll come.”

in accustomed places, among familiar things, Mary Moreland took up the routine of life. The work at the hotel helped to soothe the mortal wound inflicted upon her love. During the first days following her re- turn to New York, she refused to think. But’ in the succeeding weeks of readjust- ment, in spite of her courageous efforts to stifle every recollection of the man who had imposed upon her, Mary now and then found herself dwelling upon that tragic hour of bliss and agony. Before the visit to the camp she had always taken exquisite delight, when alone, in living over and over every little episode in which Maughm had taken part. She had thrilled at the memory of his kisses, his caresses. But now, as she looked back, it seemed as if it must have been some strange woman who had been so ready to give up her birthright for the crumbs which had fallen from the table of Daisy Maughm. At last she realized that in her blind, unreasoning pas- sion, which Maughm had roused, aided by sympathy for his pretended misery, she had idealized and glorified a creature intent only upon the gratification of desire. What Maughm’s attitude toward her might now be, she did not care. During this introspective period, Mary took no interest in the home at East Orange, in her mother, nor, in fact, any- thing. But one morning, as Mary sat at her desk, she saw a girl that reminded her of Amber Doane, and with characteristic impulsiveness, Mary put on her hat and went up to the hos- pital. She felt impelled to see with her sharp- ened vision the girl who, for love, had gone farther than she into the valley of disgrace. Once more, 78

A WELL COIFFED HEAD IS A CROWN OF GLORY and the ears are allowed to show themselves.

Pierre dresses the hair high with a pompadour slanting from the forehead toward | the crown of the head. There is the slightest ongetee of a fringe on the forehead he Spanish back comb, adjusted sideways, and banked with curls or a soft knot, is worn in the evening. Moreland (Continued from page 35) at ease Amber was delighted to see Mary, and un- usually affectionate. “You dear, where have you been? It is weeks since you were here. I telephoned your mother, but she said that you might be in Europe for all she knew. What does it mean, Mary? It is not a bit like you. “Oh, my being away and not writing don’t mean anything, Amber. have been out of town on business, and since my return have had a great deal to do.” “On business?’ “Yes, why not? But I did not come to talk about myself. I came to hear about you and about Mr. Romney. Tell me, is he well?” Amber blushed, and smiled nervously. “He seems to be ever so much stronger than he was at first,’’ said Amber, “‘and Mary, pee “Yes?” ““He—I think—wants me to marry him.” “But you wouldn’t do that,” exclaimed Mary. ‘Oh, Amber, you couldn’t.” Mary’s unexpected attitude made Amber a little defiant. “And why shouldn’t I marry him? Am I not good enough for him? Why can’t I have a little pleasure in my life? Just think, Mary, he will be a lord some day!” “But what of Mr. Romney?” Mary ques- tioned, realizing suddenly that the happiness of this man who had been so good to her was of far greater importance than the ambitions of Amber Doane. “Of course, I don’t love him,” replied Amber, “‘but it is a big temptation.” Mary looked at the girl in amazement. The thought that Romney, who to her typified all that was fine and graceful in life, should marry a woman who confessedly did not love him appalled her. But made wise by her own experience, Mary continued soberly ‘‘ Amber, I have always thought "that what you did before, you did because you loved.” Amber’s eyes dropped. “You loved Emil and you gave him proof of that love,’ Mary continued. ‘‘ You justi- fied yourself to me and to yourself by saying that it was for love, and I am not blaming you for anything that has happened, but I would blame you if you married Mr. Romney.” Amber drew a long breath. “Perhaps I didn’t mean all that I said, Mary. But, oh, there are times when I get desperate. I hear nothing from Emil. He has forgotten me. “Do you still love him?” “Yes,” she whispered. “Then, don’t you see how wrong it is for you to even think of any other man? Amber, you must not see Mr. Romney again. Promise me that you will not.” Amber hesitated. Her visits to Romney had amused and interested her tremendously. She would miss them. Mary rose to go. At the door she turned, and waited. “T promise,” cried Amber. you are, Mary Moreland! me want to be good!” “T am thinking of going away ‘somewhere, Amber. Would you go with me?’ “*I—I couldn’t leave New York,” the girl replied, her face flushing. “‘He might return and wouldn’t know where to find me. “What a girl You always make Romney had been suffering from homesick- ness. He missed Mary more and more as the days went by. He missed Amber’s butterfly visits, too. But Mary was constantly in his mind. To a man of his temperament, forced to look at life from the backwaters, these two girls, so utterly different from any of his ac- quaintance in England, had a great charm for him. As he grew stronger, he became more and more impatient with conditions. “Fenton,” he said, after one of his gloomy and lonesome days, “I am tired of living alone.” (Continued on page So)

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FA CE. BOWDER f MadebyLT. cna Parc 7 Made in four Blanche — Rosee delicate tints § Rachel — Naturelle at all best dealers 6 Send (or “SURPRISE BOX” contain - charming miniature packages § e ee “AZUREA” Face Powder a ‘Gu and Perfumes. Pym 9 S. and Canada Mm Vent. C, 24 E. 22nd St. ww Q New York City Ss 2 Belding’s Pure Dye Silk Fabrics are guaranteed to give satisfactory wear and will not rip, split or tear. Silk fabrics weighted with iron and tin oxides are so weakened that they soon tear like paper. One pound of pure silk is fre- quently so weighted as to weigh four pounds when dyed. This is the reason why millions of women throughout the country are de- manding legal protection. Until Congress passes appropri- ate legislation, there is no protec- tion, except the name of a reliable manufacturer. For over 50 years Belding Bros. & Co. have set the standard of silk purity and quality. The name “Belding” woven in the selvedge is a positive guarantee that the fabric is Pure Dye silk and will give satisfactory wear. Insist on it. Belding’s Tearless Petticoat Silks for Petticoats, Waists, Dresses and Skirts. In ready-to-wear Garments demand the Belding Tag. BELDING’S Guaranteed Lining Silks for lining Cloaks, Suits, Jackets, etc. Belding’s Petticoat and Lining Silks are carried by all first class dry goods stores. Made full yard wide in all the season’s latest shades. RETAIL PRICES: I italics vids Seen ks s $1.00 per yard All silk medium -weight.... 1.25 per yard Heavy weight 1.50 per yard You can have the same Belding Pure Dye Silks in ready- made garments. To be sure of it Insist on Getting This Belding Bell-Shape Tag With Your Ready-to-Wear Cloaks, Suits, Jackets, Etc. This tag is an absolute guarantee that the garment to which it is attached is lined with Belding’s Guaranteed Lining Silk and that the lining will give satis- factory wear or a new lining free. Ask your dry goods dealer. Interesting Booklet FREE A well known lecturer and writer has just written a booklet telling all about the manufacture of silks. 32 pages attractively illustrated. Mailed free with Pamphlet and Belding’s Pure Dye Silk Fabrics, if you address our Chicago office—211 W. Monroe St.

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N every careless tilt, in every saucy line, the Burgesser Hat fairly radi- ates verve and smartness. burgesser lend to your appearance that rare quality of correctness, and give that final touch of distinctive fashion, so much desired by the modish woman of today. Women who know style—who ap- preciate smart millinery and who have the world from which to choose —prefer Burgesser Hats. If your favorite shop cannot show you the new Burgesser models, write us and we will refer you to the dealers showing them in your city. Burgesser Hats are readily recognized by this label. A.D. Burgesser & Co Ladies Tailored ‘Hats New York 1 and 3 West 37th Street, (Wholesale Only) Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 Feoen BY MELLOW CANDLELIGHT Restful and pleasing is the light diffused by these delicately tinted candle shades which are shown in designs and colourings ot great variety. Higgins & Seiter display an attractive array of crystal leted with shade and twenty- four hour candle, priced $1.50. The smaller size sells for 75c. Miss Moreland (Continued from page 78) “‘T have done my best, Mr. Basil.” “T know, but you are a man. I want to be served by a divinity. I am stronger now than I have been since the accident. I feel vigor- ous, and have a keen desire to test myself. I want to go out into the world and compete with other men. And having won, I want to return to my fireside and find a divinity there waiting for me. That, Fenton, is man’s nor- mal life. This, Fenton, is——” Fenton suspected that his master contem- plated some folly, and he immediately began planning for a return to England. ‘Beg pardon, sir, but may I ask if there has been any word from Miss Moreland?” “No,” said Romney, musingly, his thoughts apparently far afield, “‘she has dropped quite out of sight.” . Miss Moreland is a very interesting young woman,” the man finally remarked. “But English ladies are much more beautiful than Americans, if you will pardon my saying so, sir.”’ “There is beauty and beauty, Fenton,” replied Romney, indulging in his characteris- tic and delightful sententiousness. ‘There is elfin beauty and queenly beauty. One type appeals to one man, one type to another; for- tunately for all hands, the world offers a gen- erous assortment of females. Personally, I prefer queens to witches.” Fenton, pleased and relieved at the change in his master’s trend of thought, turned to leave the room, just as the footman appeared in the doorway. “It is Miss Moreland, Mr. Romney. Will you see her?’ “Oh, delighted! Ask her to come in.” There were many things that Romney wanted to talk about. Miss Moreland must learn at once, as a matter of course, how the great manuscript had progressed during her absence, she must also know that he was much stronger, and here was a rare print that had been sent to him from Germany. Words came quickly to Romney now that he was once more face to face with this girl of his dreams. But, finally, Mary plunged into the subject upper- most in her mind. “TI want to speak to you about Amber Doane, Mr. Romney.’ ‘About Amber?” questioned Romney. “She has not been here for three days. I have missed her. You did a friendly thing when you sent her to me.” “T am not so sure of that,” Mary said thoughtfully. “I am afraid that perhaps I have made a great mistake.”’ ‘A great mistake?” “Yes, I thought only of you and your lone- liness. I did not think of possible results.” Romney smiled whimsically. ‘You are too sincere to be enigmatical, but this sounds my ste rious. ‘Amber cannot marry you, Mr. Romney.’ “What do you say? Amber cannot marry me?” No, Mr. Romney. I am sorry—but there are reasons——” Romney stared, then he laughed. “My dear girl,” he said, “‘ Amber Doane is a charm- ing creature, quite a pe rfect nurse and a won- der at eggnoggs and picture puzzles, but why should you tell me that she cannot marry me? It may be ungallant, but in all tzuth, [ do not want Amber to marry me.” Mary blushed with mortification. “There,” he said, extending his hand, “I beg your pardon for my flippancy, but I could not help it. Surely Amber does not love me—or think that Ilove her? I cannot believe that.” Before Mary could answer, Romney leaned over and kissed her hand. ‘Ah, Mary, dear, it is you that I love. It is you, you that I want to be my wife.” He held her hand a moment. ‘“ But you see what I am. Aninvalid. [have not much to offer you, this poor self of mine, Mary, but it is a big, biglove.” Mary sat motionless. She had been utterly oblivious of Romney’s growing love for her. She was stunned. Romney’s voice roused her. “Will you take time to think about it, Mary? Maybe you are not ready to give me an answer now. I have startled you, but, dear, I want you so.” “T am sorry, Mr. Romney, oh, so sorry.” He covered his eyes with his hand, then spoke slowly. ‘‘Don’t be sorry. Don’t re- proach yourself. It is perhaps enough now just to love you, and maybe, maybe I shall not have to wait forever. Dear, I loved you the day I went to East Orange, in fact, I think I went there just to tell you so. But I saw then that it was too soon to speak. I should not have spoken at all, I suppose, but poets and dreamers can be just as impetuous as other men. I wonder if Mary shook her head. “It is useless, Mr. Romney. Please don’t hope.” He waited a moment. “Is there anyone else, Mary?” “T cannot tell you,’’ came the whisper from her trembling lips. “He is one of the fortunate men then,” said Romney, bitterly. “It is my destiny to go on alone, and I must do so gracefully. It is all that there is left for me to do, I fear.” A few days later at the Waldorf, Mary was summoned to take some letters for Mr. Briggs. Not having seen him since her return, she went to his rooms with some misgivings, but was greeted so cordially by Briggs and his wife that her embarrassment soon vanished. Mr. Briggs dictated a letter, and now being sufficiently recovered to walk about the room, came over to Mary’s table and stood for a moment with his hands in his pockets. Mrs. Briggs watched him smilingly. It was not the first time Mary had noticed how completely these two understood each other. The bond of sympathy and love between them was per- fect. They were more than husband and wife; they were lovers, companions, helpmates. ““We were talking about you as you came in, Miss Moreland,” said Briggs finally. “In fact, we have talked about you a good deal since you were last here. Have you ever been West? Would you like to go?” Mary shut her note book. Was this the way out that she had so longed for? “No, I have never been West,” she replied dreamily. _ Mrs. Briggs here broke into the conversa- tion. “Miss Moreland, John and I are looking for someone to go to Denver with us. We want a private and social secretary. My hus- band needs a woman of experience, one in whom he can place entire confidence, to take charge of his business correspondence, and I need some one to assist me in entertaining and in the management of my house. This will be a very gay winter in Denver; there are people whom I must entertain on John’s account, others whom I must entertain on my children’s account. I need help. The salary will be ar- ranged to suit you. John and I feel that in you we would have the one person who can satisfy us both. Will you come?” Mary hesitated. Should she confess that she had told Maughm about the Upjohn pur- chase? “You know nothing about me, Mr. Briggs. I have no references.” ‘“Well, Miss Moreland, I have made some inquiries. You were with Thomas Maughm & Company, 40 Wall Street, for ten years. You left for reasons of your own. That’s enough for me. By the way, as you already know something of the Upjohn affair, I don’t mind admitting now that all our fussing and telegraphing the other day amounted to noth- ing. They have found the lode again on Tom Maughm’s property. I thought we had him sewed up, but that’s -uck. It means millions for his crowd though,” and Briggs laughed good humouredly. *‘ Well, what do you say, young lady? W ill you come?” “Yes,” she answered, with girlish enthu- siasm. “I would like to go, if you think that I—I am worthy of your confidence.” Mrs. Briggs led her to the door. “Be ready tomorrow, my dear, at ten.’ (To be continued in the October issue.)

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American Homes || Maternity Apparel L Bryant M ity G i li f and Gardens aa aunt sealed Gokinas op ogy Riggs tata y poe With Collectors’ Department ||| _ nity with expanding waistlines and designed to meet every Stunning | emergency without showing the least trace of their motive. ne Beautiful y . TERY AMERECAN D C Creations | style Book HOMES AND GAR- : a resses, Coats, Suits, ||| 3+ very Low EE DENS subscriber is invited ° ry einiel tiie ts to consult the Editor of the |}}} Skirts, Blouses, Prices to-day COLLECTORS’ DEPART- . E offer you, direct by mail, the MENT on all subjects con- - Negligees W daintiest, up-to-the-minute ‘crea- nected with their favorite |] — - TNR ety — vm Tg > anes: tact ae : rene’: anufactured in my own atelier and sold skirts,waists and lingerie—designed by our hobbies. If you have any directly t . . he . ‘ am ps ro fashionexperts and made by us for the most ° P c ; y to you without intervening profits. wat mam, ~ste-usgs- vealed. dees ‘ object of interest to collect- Consequently my he New ne me ga We use only 3 ee 2 Hy : ‘ ; the finest materials, and offer you excep- ors about which you desire The prices are no higher and in many |}| tional values at prices that will pleasantly information, a letter enclos- instances actually lower than asked surprise you. In quality, beauty, style, ing a stamp will bring a reply elsewhere for ordinary styles. and variety, the Royal Apparel Line will 7 ' delight you, and making your selection from this Department of the 5120 (as illustrated). Maternity Dress of | from the beautifully illustrated Style Magazine. Readers who have heavy Crepe de Chine, entirely box plaited mag hy — Free is just like shopping : z ee a inished with vestee and collar of on Filth Avenue. antiques and curios for ex- and finished wit : : * iain ave iuleed th. cual embroidered crepe voile. SpecialPrice 24.75 Special Introductory Offer oe : The Lane Maternity Corsets are designed to To take ¥ Sted wi . iti . ere x J E a you acquainted with the lists of such objects for pub give a needed support and retain a pleasing Royal Apparel, we offer these two lication in the Collectors’ ex- | outline of figure without any pressure on | dainty models prepaid, at less than change department. Lord sensitive parts. Made in high or low bust you would pay in any retail store. . ‘ | J S , . Brougham once said: “Bless- —- © sold wees whe 3.85 No. 1212 — A fine silk Crepe de . | an D5. . cia T1ce Ge ~he ss of particula ace ed is he who hath a hobby,” | ARI Nh sk me apace cia Be es . . | end for our Season Boo The waist is very simply | and thrice blessed indeed is EXPECTATIONS AND STYLES designed, showing a Tow ’ 7 . ¢ Or “ ” ack anc yhite Crepe = a a one has — * Coen aonieed Daananene Oo wit the beau lrying Oo | t . the yoke collar and turn- | | j back cuffs are of andie the home, the adornment of Lane Br yant fox and are beautifully” set . . . . . 4 ff t , s' i ~h j : | it with objects of association me | (25 West 38th St., New York ; these sonal white and | | Z t s ‘| such as the collector loves to tee eo 7 2 = | The latest style girdle is bring apsteeags Lai a | EXTRA SIZE MODELS of blac kand white é me of the subjects | ss 4 - striped Liberty Satin; ing pete of : tig” For robust, well developed figures measur- oo on that will receive attention in | ing 44 to 54 inches at bust,we have special ee, oar — ’ | 2 @ is so draped as to the COLLECTORS’ DE- styles showing the latest ideas adapted for add gracefulness and PARTMENT of AMERI- ie all ages with height-giving lines. e\ — A CAN HOMES. Send for ‘‘New Styles’’ Edition A 4 as deus = small weights . 2 eit sewed i Antiques Embroideries (2% bottom. Arms and Armor Illumination mm TT m - m wt Mm wi nti or This _ model Autographs Ivories | HH HHH AAA | AAA HH . beautifully Books and Bind- Jewelry = ’ TI TT aT and can ings Laces a Bae Hi || a “hud 1 di — White Brass Miniatures ; as ! Navy. Bronze Paintings Made to Carving Pottery and a 1] j Bu. Iti} ona ahieaee Copper Porcelain | ae at prepaid for | Furniture Pewter Pesca ' “4 al wid Glass Rugs , : $ | 4 ‘| 2 98 Etchings, En- Silver : , aes gravings and Tapestries and Z . ' Prints Textiles : , Be : Coins and Medals . | No. 1210—Smartnese and } refined taste are evident in

. “eee i this attractive dress, adapt- Trial subscription AMERICAN fH} able to any figure or age. HOMES AND GARDENS sent “9 Made of a- fine Crepe de . - | - | Chene. The waist shows to any address in U. S. for four wa ; Hl || the new ‘‘Middy Basque” months for $1.co. Use coupon c | > effect, fitting loosely over the figure and produc- below. | BA roe z te . ing straight lines; TY on is' 2 as ; save the lifting and carrying—save baby from getting so tired, Fag aoa 42 . * isible patent fast- cross and nervous—and may permanently improve his health. SS ee . . and turnback cuffs It is both movable crib and playroom. Baby can sleep or are of organdie and es a ° ° black and white play outdoors in it for hours. Made with white enamel frame, striped satin. This skirt is made silver-finished wire screens, noiseless rubber tires and sanitary full, giving perfect ; ; M : M in dancing, mattress on woven wire springs. Gives abundant light and air chewing halt pr reg Moy _- weg! ae and freedom for his legs, with absolute protection against floor ee ae ton, 2 - ‘o - = short waist; th onl readers of Harper’s Bazar. = drafts and every kind of harm, day and night. cusenaining Seoes wether over hips, is of one

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you direct. a 8 | it and we will cheerfully refund your money- ee 5 Write to-day for our Free Book of New York Styles Write for Free Illustrated Booklet i See nak aust an If you are not interested, let us send it to some friend who is. Th S > * E 7 P is model is Harper Ss Bazar The Baby Cariole is collapsible and : \I| very effective, and fitted with a special canvas bag for con- #4 —= lll in Black, Navy P ° ° { " |}| and White. | PING SERVICE venient storage or for traveling. Easily \ . Made to your measure and shipped $] 1-98 | 5 : set up again without tools. If your dealer taf.| Gree ure sel Re eR Tr oy > e J | tely G se, We will buy for you anything cannot supply you, write us to supply neles : 52 the gapment yon pasubons te 00 entively ex> | charge to you. Ture to poge 95 ‘and vead.cur THE EMBOSSING CO., 2 Pruyn St., Albany, N. Y. Royal Apparel Company tractive. can be had only ‘@@ PERSONAL SHOP- | prepaid, for only . . obtainable in New York—without isfactery — no matter what your reason—retura “ ” Ideal—Winier and S announcement. Makers of “Toys That Teach ater and Summer | 38 East 32nd St. New York

Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 81

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Presents Autumn and Winter Models Hats Gowns Tailored Frocks Furs Reflecting in a superlative degree the spirit of the house—Youthfulness, Inherent Style—and Different. Our creations this season will be found to surpass any previous display. Enlargement To insure absolute promptness in filtings and deliveries, we have added two entire floors in our 52nd Street Building, making the largest plant of its kind in this country. Fifth Avenue at 52nd Street New York Harper's Bazar, Sepiember, 1014 82 OLD FRIENDS IN NEW GUISES An effective bit of colour is achieved by a Roman striped bengaline waistcoat with blue buttons and white piqué collar. lis for $3.95 at Gimbel Brothers. At the same shop there is a black satin stock with organdie collar and Roman stripe tie which costs $2.00. fin Simon & Co. Gimbel Brothers for $1.00. $3.95. from Gimbel Brothers. moiré bag. One of the new cape-blouses in blue taffeta is shown by Frank- A Poiret-like black and white striped silk collar can be bought at A “dress-up” touch is lent by a waistcoat of purple moiré with black buttons and white piqué collar. Figured moiré and Roman striped silk At the same shop there is another novelty in a plaite Sells at Gimbel Brothers for ve been combined in this new ba; | Letters to a Husband from a Worn-out Wife (Continued from page 57) sainted old Doctor is in the far-sighted period of life, poor dear. That’s why he still thinks well of me. “Look at my hands. Well washed and then forgot. You are much too good for me, Jack, but there’s no time to talk now. You’d better ring for those suit-cases and while you’re shaking out wrinkles, I’ll be polishing up. “Any refreshments?” “Oh, yes, a few things. Some terrapin and lobster and a galantine or two and sand- wiches—and, of course, a little champagne and coffee—and the usual bride’s cake, etc. “And only us, for all that?” “Yes, only us and a handful of friends from the Belvedere, and Joe Conwright and his wife are motoring over. And, by the way, the Governor of the State is here for the night, with his lady. It seems they have a niece here, taking the cure. I met them on the sleeper and we exchanged cards and they are coming, and I’ll get him to sign as one of the witnesses. It'll tickle the old lady Hal- dane tremendously.” “And no one from the sanitarium?”’ “Several from the sanitarium, certainly, besides Dr. Jacques and his family, who will be the most dignified witnesses. I believe she’s asking several of the staff, each one con- fidentially, of course. And your friend, the joke-man, he’s in the secret. Indeed, he’s going to write it up for the New York press.” “And how long has he known, pray?” “Since just now—several hours ago. Oglesby telegraphed him to meet a member of his firm at the station to confer about a mat- ter of business—and there he stood when I got off the train. And he’s to have a ripping cheque, too, worthy of the prominence of the contracting parties. Poor little man! When I told him what he would be paid, he quite filled up for a minute as he gasped: ‘Gee! What a windfall! Why, I'll be able to send for my wife. She’s awfully done for, after nursing me through all my typhoid.” “His wife?” “Why not?” “Oh, no reason, I suppose—only, he looks such a boy—and it was so silly of him to spend all that money on roses, if he had a wife to look after and is so poor that a little wedding write-up counts.” “You have much to learn, little one. Don’t know that people of the artistic temperament dote on buying roses when the bread’s out? And they are high class when they don’t owe for their roses, the dear infants. But as for this being a trifling order, you are mistaken. One of the last things her mother said to me was——” ““Whose mother?” “Why Geraldine Haldane’s mother, of course. Whose else? The last thing she said to me when she signed that paper was, ‘Nothing cheap, now! If you should run against them and they should be playing fool and getting married, I want decent bills. No tupenny business. Oh, my poor lamb!” And she was weeping copiously when she said it, too, poor old soul! “So I went straight from her to the tele- phone, consulted Oglesby, thence to the florist, ascertained what the Campben-Bellows wed- ding flowers cost and duplicated the order toadot. From there to Sperry’s and had the Ulric-Considene wedding-supper repeated, with a trifle or two, added just for grandeur, and I was on my way to fetch a reporter when I remembered your little joke man whom I discover to be one of the Planet’s crack soci- ety reporters, supposedly still hors de combat after a tussle with typhoid, and he’s to have his cheque tonight—and I believe that’s all. My handling of the affair shall be as princely as I can make it. I don’t often have such a chance.” “And you’ve never told her mother a thing?” “The secret wasn’t mine to tell, dear heart. It became mine only to keep and I was let in simply to help. Besides, I wouldn’t have trusted her. She’d no sooner have known her ‘poor lamb’ alive and well than she’d have tried to lock her up again. “‘T don’t see what she’s making such a kick about, anyhow, for Street is big-rich in his own right and a gentleman. If it hadn’t been for the possibility of the ducal coronet, she’d have jumped at Street. She’ll always feel that Geraldine’s cousin, Sybil Clangour, is just one degree ahead of Geraldine socially in being even the divorced wife of that nasty old Earl whom she was obliged to leave. You know, she and Geraldine were presented the same season.” “Ves, I remember well enough. Two years after I was,’’ I blurted, but Jack went on: “T tell you, Blessy, the human is an in- scrutable creature, especially the female of the species, in the exercise of her master pas- sion.” “T agree with you, Jack,” I chirped, squint- ing at the shine on my thumb-nail, to keep a straight face. ‘Yes, I agree with you, the female of our species is often more /ively than the male. I admit that.” Jack was putting in his shirt studs and he didn’t look up. He was used to my talk. — his face lit as he turned to me presently with: “T’ve missed you a lot, Blessibus! I do wonder if I dare take you home with me, sure enough—about next Thursday, say? I think I might arrange to stay that long, and you will have had one solid week of real repose, dead calm. Ill see to that.” “Dare to take me!” I mocked. “Well, I like that! I dare you not to. But really, (Continued on page 84)

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ell, I eally, THE BAZAR Will attend to the remodeling of your gowns What becomes of your beautiful old gowns? One might as well ask,—Where are the roses of | yesteryear > | The handsome costume is sel- | dom discarded because of wear, | —more often it merely outlives | its freshness, or is shelved by| the passing of the mode. The Bazar will gladly help in rendering first aid to injured or crippled costumes,—in restonng them to longer life and duty. There are specialists in New York who do this thing,—-and do it well! They revamp, and re- model and rejuvenate,—to the end that your gown is practically made new again. Naturally, no one may recon- struct a gown that is too much worn, or too far antedated in style. But, there are many costly gowns which retain a basis of good usable materials to work upon. If you care to send such gowns to The Bazar, we will forward an estimate for remodeling. Address JANE JARVIS Director HARPER’S BAZAR Personal Shopping Service | | 1100 Publishers Bldg., New York | Spill a Gallon of Hot Gravy on the surface of a REVERSE FOR CARD TABLE SIDE CONCEALEL LIQUID. BROOF - . CORNER " CUT AWAY ~ TO SHOW Ap AIR CHAMBERS McKAY Ventilated Table Pad and not a drop will reach your table, nor will any of it be absorbed by the pad. Wash the surface of the pad with soap and water, or damp cloth, and not a trace of the gravy will remain. Ventilated Air Chambers absorb and carry away the heat, keeping the pad dry and sanitary and entirely heat-proof. Invert the pad, and the beautiful felt (or flannel) makes an excel- ent card table or study table out of your dining table. Simply draw the looped straps into the crack at the center of the table and close or lock the table. The pad will then be firmly an- chored in position and cannot slip nor slide. No cut edges exposed. No stitches to break or gather dirt. “If there’s a single stitch in the surface it’s not a McKay.” A fositive guarantee with every pad. Beware of Imitations. ark. Write us for samples, booklet and dealer’s name. Lydon-Bricher Mfg. Co. 256 Central Av Minneapolis, Minn. Look for this Trade TENT + CVTEUOLOOOUOUUUUAUOUUUUUUUOUUUUUUUUAUUUIIIIIIT ; SS Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 Cordelia Blossom “The best in a long time”’. . . by George Randolph Chester Fait “The incidents are so humor- ously conceived that the reader is drawn on from Now chapter to chapter and need in the anticipate no dull moments Thicd Edition in this the best Chester tale that has appeared in a long time.” Hope—snricus to see more like it Nustrated The Springfield Republican is cer- “tain that you will enjoy each chapter The New York Times is “W ritten with equal ingenuity and effectiveness. o un- faithful husbands nor dis- loyal wives—as devoid of sex motif as ‘Kim’ itself. May its tribe increase.” S The Buffalo News says Society—i: is part of the plot “There is no end of keen observation, plenty of fun, Price $1.35 quite delightful characters, Net a thorough acquaintance with society and good things on each page.” At All Good Bookshops — Catalogue of other unusual books free Hearst’s International Library Co. 119 West 40th St., New York WUUUUE YOUU BU UU UUUUUUUU UU { 1 uuuuuUU the drawing of curious and 83 SJUUUUUUUUUUUUUU UU UUW UU UU UU UU UU UU UU Lilas de Rigaud The Perfume of Old-Fashioned Gardens and Tender Memories HE old-fashioned garden “back home” is in its glory now—so full of tender memories of old joys and old friends that the thought of it brings a longing un- speakable. To those of us, city- bound or travel-tired, who cannot go back at will and wander through its well-loved paths, there is left still—Lilas de Rigaud, Perfume of Old- Fashioned Gardens and Tender Memories. The wonder of its sweetness will carry you back in dreams to the Land of Used-To-Be. For sale in high class Toilet Goods Departments. Extract $3.50 the bottle. Tal- cum of exquisite soft- ness 5oc. Toilet Water $3.75. Cold Cream soc. Bath Salt $1.00. Sachet Powder $1.50, and Face Powder $1.00. Send fifteen cents to Riker Hegeman Co. 344 West 4th Street, New York, for liberal sample botile of Lilas de Rigaud or Rigaud's famous Mary Garden in extract or sachet. RIGAUD Paris UUUUUUUUU UU UU Hi ARAN AN AANA AAT ANNAN AAnAANNAANANAAAAAANAAAAARAANAAAnANAnAN -__—— ANN ANANNANAANANANANAAAAAANNANNnAnNn TANT AN AIAN N NAO AANA AAA OANA AINNNANANANAAAAAAANAAAA AANA SINAAANARAAAANAANANAN

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ERGDORF e*IOODMAN early FROM our representative in Paris we have received a special selection of very smart For the convenience of these imported suits, gowns, and coats and many adaptations of them are now shown in our establishment at patrons, FRENCH MODELS our 32 West 32nd Street New York City Booklet on Request See the new creations in La Resista Corsets direct from Paris, now shown in all good stores throughout the U. S. and in New York City at our exclu- sive salon where expert cor- setieres will fit you perfectly. A model for every figure. $2.50 to $25.00 11-B West 34th Street Harper's Bazar, September, 1014 SPIRABONE The Corset With a Reason The lithe, lissome, willowy effects of modern modes can- not be produced by corsets built on old-fashioned, fixed and rigid lines. La Resista “‘Spirabone’”’ Cor- sets are the most adaptable to the present vogue because of materials, construction and special features. They give support without stiffness, and grace without restraint, by reason of the yielding, flexible, resilient, con- formable wire boning. La Resista models, with all new devices and style touches, insure the utmost in comfort, fashion and elegance. La Resista Corset Company New York City Moorhead & Jardine has a dashing Napol- eon I shape in brown velvet outlined in gold raid. A. D. Bar- gesser & Co. shows the black velvet sailor with soft crown and burnt os- trich trimming. Feoen There is chic in the flare of the brown velvet brim and in the saucy tilt of the téte-de-negre and white burnt ostrich fantasy on the hat from Rawak. NEW SHAPES IN TROT-ABOUT HATS Letters to a Husband from a Worn-out Wife (Continued from page 82) Jack, hadn’t we better run down now, so that you can register? You see, you are just a strange man to these people yet, and you've been up here in my room a good while. No doubt, the three hundred curiouswho know you to be here surmise that you are the prospective happy groom—still, we don’t want any talk.’ ‘*Happy groom?’” Jack repeated absently. Then, ‘Oh, yes, that’s a fact. And by the way, Blessy, do you know I was wakened on the roof this afternoon by hearing my own name called—and I got on to local gossip in regard to my wife quite some. “Did you hear that?” I giggled. “Sure I heard it. Did you? “Oh, Jack, it’s a funny world, this. I seem to see Alice looming again. Every thing seems half unreal yet. But we've no time to talk now. Come along!” As we crossed the roof together on our way to the elevator, hatless and happy as two children, I grabbed Jack’s sleeve, detaining him just a moment to whisper in his ear: “There they are, now, Dear, over by the south tower—that huge, ringlety man bending over the pink clouds in the roller-chair—that’s the Brigand, hovering still, I see, around the Gipsy. Wouldn’t it be terrible if he confused yellow hair with haloes?—and she fairly drip- ping with any millionaire’s diamonds! I wouldn’t worry about him so if he weren’t so alluringly rich—they say he’s called four kinds of a king in the West, cattle-king and three others, and he’s so artless. How lost she would be, poor frail sister, if he insisted on building a cathedral around her!” I saw Jack glance searchingly at me as if wondering whether, by any chance, my mind had gone off, just the least bit. Still, his voice was quite natural when he whispered: “Don’t you fret about these people, my dear. That man will never offer that woman a cathedral. Yachts and aeroplanes, maybe, and cry stal palaces—but I respect his discern- ment in discov’ ering my little girl for what she really is, in spite of her somewhat misleading halo. But ye gods! Who comes here?” And before I could answer, the Butte, all done over in pink from aigrette to slippers, and a mile high, at that, emerging apparently from nowhere, had rushed forward and taken me in her arms. “Don’t mind me,” “I’m just obliged to hug her!” she deferred to Jack. And, drawing ‘ me forcibly aside, she confided: 84 “I’ve just been layin’ in wait for you in the quilt booth yonder, watchin’ for you to come along. I heard you had company. But, say! Mine swears he never sent me those yellow roses! I just had to come and tell you. But I know who sent ’em. God A’mighty sent ’em, that’s who! Sent ’em out ofa clear sky because He knew how forlorn I felt, and He knew that my Beloved was on the way to me and that all his thoughts were of yellow roses which he couldn’t find—and He took pity on me. Tellme, Dear, don’t you think God could have sent ’em? Don’t you believe He did?” She was looking straight into my soul my ‘human, sympathetic, understanding sister- woman’s soul—and swallowing hard while I said it, meeting her eager gaze steadily, I answered her. “Surely, I do. divine agencies? sent you your golden roses. What do we know about Certainly it was He who Even if He had had to make them on the spot, that wouldn’t be any trick at all for the One who could think all the world’s roses, and endow them as He has done. Besides, Dear, everything queer is happening. Nothing could surprise ‘ But she interrupted: “An’ he's got the license an’ everything— but, say! he denies all that outfit of weddin’ flowers, too— denies it pot black!” Then, lowering her voice and glancing at Jack, who had slipped back a bit mto the shadow, she flashed: ‘‘Oh, say! Yours is as good lookin’ again as his picture, although I’d know him by it. Of course, I knew he’d be classy. I heard a swell New Yorker was up in your room, your ‘intended,’ they said, but of course I had my own ideas. “But tell me, you sweet thing, look straight into my eyes, You couldn’t tell a lie, if you tried. Zs mine fooling me? And didn’t those flowers come anonymous? An’ don’t you an’ I know in our souls they are my bridal flowers?” “No, positively, dear.. They are for an- other wedding—and, of course, my husband and I are in the secret. I didn’t know till he came. They aren’t yours, but——” I was thinking fast. What I wanted to do was to offer her the service of the flowers if she would take a later hour than the others for her wedding. But when it came to doing this very definite thing, I found ‘myself. still strangely timid. I couldn’t quite vouch for her sanity. Indications to the contrary were too recent. Laying my hand upon her, as in some sort apologizing for my words which I toned as gently as I could, I plunged: ““And you say your man has really come?” *** Really come?’”’ she repeated, stung to the quick, I feared. ‘Well, I like that!” And turning quickly, she called over her shoulder: “You, Willie! Willie W inchester! Come out here and show yourself!’ And out from his hiding, behind a stack of screens, stepped forward, or rather ambled, a great, kindly, loose-jointed man, so like the Brigand that I started, almost hesitating before I offered him my hand, as I made a point of doing. But when he had come out into the full light, and the slanting rays of a low sun fell into his hair, illuming his face, I saw a man still like our Brigand, but glorified, younger, gentler, and of softer colouring, and I realized how the camera, which takes no note of half shades, had seemed to present a replica of the older man, for in height and general outline the two were singularly alike. “Mr. Winchester, I want to make you acquainted with Mis’ Heminway, the lady I’ve been writin’ you about all this time. In other words, this is my Little Oasis; my in- tended, Mis’ Heminway.” So we were introduced. And then, of course, I had to call Jack, and he and the “intended” got into a little talk while the Butte, chuckling absurdly, drew apart again to whisper: “Say, ain’t he the spittin’ image of Col. Copperthwaite? I saw you see it quick as you laid eyes on him. They tell me that when I used to be nervous and half nutty, whilst I was losin’ my sleep so constant, fairly hounded him. You see, I took him for my Willie. Wasn’t it fierce?” (Continued on page 86)

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“When My Ship Comes In” Now for the story of America’s bankrupt little side-show called Broadway, where the wages of sin and success are spen A man’s size, woman-wise novel of the “Great White Way.” Gouverneur Morris knows his New York, and he tells a cracking good story. Here is the theatrical game with the paint taken off. The illustrations by Charles Dana Gibson bring the exciting scenes of action before your eyes, as pictures thrown on a screen, A theatrical manager, rambling about a Cape Cod fishing village, discovers a girl, charming, ingenuous, with loads of unsuspected talent. Housekeeping and baby-raising in a little house by the sea, or the stage? Which ? Morris tells. His story will startle you to attention and set you talking. Read this great novel in July Hearst’s The Most Talked of Magazine in America Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

On Blouse Sion hne Better Blouses at mpeeiens Prices _ MODEL F. 20 MODEL F-21 Price, Prepaid, $5.00 Copy of a new Parisian Model. Un- usually high quality of all silk Crepe de Chine with three rows of hemstitch- ing down front in clusters of two on either side. Collar and cuffs trimmed with dainty lace. New feature button-back effect with center trimming of four rowsof cording and covered small ball but- tons. Long sleeves cord- ed at armholes and shoulders. Large cov- ered ball buttons. Colors: White, Black, Navy and Nigger Brown. Elastic belt- ing.

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ese eenasteeninernieshi Baur GRECIAN-TRECO The Soul of Style —must dwell in the corset. there, it cannot exist in the gown. is the corset, so must the style be. That is the Bien-Jolie designing creed, and it finds expression in every creation whose passport to recognition is the Bien-Jolie trademark. Grecian-Treco fabric has been used to invest Bien-J oliecorsets with supreme style that would translate the mode of the period into its most beautiful guise. Its power to do this, through its style-interpretive qualities, is what has won for it a permanent place in corset designing. Bien-Jolie Corsets range from Size 20 to Siz2 36, each size accurately and permanently re- flecting the proportions for which it was f to $40.00. designed. Qualities from $3.50 Front-lace from $5.00 up. Bien-Jolie Brassieres and explain in they are accepted standards. Every Bien-Jolie model is—as it always has been— boned with “‘Walohn”’ because it is the best boning in the world, and not merely because it is the costliest BENJAMIN & JOHNES Newark, N. J. If it be not Soutiens-Gorges their distinctive and individual beauty and worth why, by common consent, Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 i” Courtesy of Peck & Peck STOCKINGS SHEER AND GOSSAMER The wide clocks in black or white decorate the finest of French silk hosiery. A late Parisian novelty shows the tops and fronts of white or a colour and a boot effect in black. are combined in this stocking. pairs may be pulled through a finger ring. The striped design is always effective in openwork. stockings have inserts of the finest hand made lace. The “Queen Victoria” hosiery is so sheer that two Exquisite evening Embroidery and openwork Embroidery, in the self tone or a con- trasting colour, enhances many of the plain silk stockings. Letters to a Husband from a Worn-out Wife (Continued from page 84) Before we parted, it was agreed that the second wedding that evening should occur at ten o'clock, the floral decorations to remain intact; also that, in the absence of any of her near of kin, I should stand with the bride, as matron of honour. Then with a final pre- cautionary “‘ Mum’s the word,”’ fairly wresting myself from the mammoth blush which suf- fused me in “just one parting hug,” I seized Jack’s arm and we hurried down together— to register and to “‘make good.” During a!l this rapid fire, there smouldered as a red coal in my sub-consciousness a sense of shame and responsibility as to the letter which lay deep in my pocket; and so the first thing I did when we had reached the rotunda and Jack was writing his name in the great book was to hand it, with a sinful tip, to the porter with a request that he deliver it without delay to the lady to whom it was addressed, as it had been sent by mistake in Mrs. Hemin- way’s mail. In doing which, thus openly, I felt something like a sense of dignity re- stored. And this, Dear Book, is the story as nearly as I can tell it straight, of how there came to be two weddings in the chapel at Seafair that evening—two notable weddings, indeed, for the real identity of the Butte and still more of her man, of which it would be only tanta- lizing to offer a hint and which it would take much too long to tell well—all that is another story. There was a menacing hitch in the affair for a little while when it was learned that the train from Richmond which was to fetch the officiating ministers had been detained by a “freight wreck ahead”’ and could not possibly arrive before midnight, but while everybody concerned was consulting and no one able to suggest relief, into the breach stepped who but the Brigand, if you please, eager, complaisant and offering his services. He had been regularly ordained in the Cumberland Presbyterian faith many years before, it was true, but he had always kept himself equipped for emergencies (plural, please notice) and could marry, baptize, or bury on occasion. Indeed, before any one could question him, he had whipped out his license and robes, the latter, he explained, being a matter of choice. For himself, although exercising his pre- rogative only by authority conferred by his Cumberland connection which discounte- nanced ceremonial or display, he felt a cer- tain dignity in donning the surplice and stole for the marriage rite. Also, the Episcopal form was at their service, if preferred, and further, he hesitated to suggest—and yet why should one hesitate to do a kindly turn?—it was no business of his, although, of course, it would be a matter of business if Mme. Gipsy Fournette could be induced to sing, if it was desired, he was not sure, but per- haps—? She was very expensive, of course, but if people knew what was what and were willing to pay for the best—Madame had just been discharged by her physician and would be returning to her work in a day or so. It was the chance of a lifetime. Certainly he would see about it, although he always advised the principals to approach a professional on a matter of business. She was an artist and could be ¢res difficile if she were provoked. Well, the upshot of it all was that when I walked up the chapel aisle, that evening, preceding the bride, of course, my first sur- prise came in the Wedding March from Lohen- grin, a contribution of local talent and admi- rably done by whom but the poor Visiting Lady whom I did not recognize, of course, until later in the evening, when it was my delight to take her hand, and virtually, if not literally, tell her I loved her. And I did, as I said it, with all my heart; and I was so glad to discover that she had the consolations of music when her thankless task of feeding sugar to jungle beasts in a menagerie became too hard. At the moment we reached the chancel and the waiting groom, even while the last notes of the organ were dying, there arose a rich contralto voice, tender and sweet in Cantor’s beautiful “Oh, Fair, Oh, Sweet and Holy,” filling the chapel with melody so tender, so really “sweet and holy”’ in tone suggestion as to become a fitting part of worship, such was the art of Gipsy Fournette, such nature’s endowment to her. And while she approached the closing notes of her song, slowly, noiselessly from behind the palms to the left of the high altar there stepped the most resplendent creature of us all, for Iassure you, dear, dear Book, our Brigand had neglected nothing in the way of magnificence. My recollection of him now is as of a great blur of crimson, white and gold, and when I appealed to Jack—afterward, of course,— he could give me little satisfaction as to its significance. He insisted, however, in taking upon himself any possible blame in the matter, as he con- fessed, when I had delivered myself of my opinion on the subject—which was that our officiating minister, in the performance of a sacred Christian ceremony, had got himself up like a pagan, and that to my mind, his ap- pearance suggested a cross between a Chinese mandarin and a cockatoo—when I had got this venom out of my system, I say, Jack in- sisted that any blame as to the Brigand’s effort in our behalf should be laid at his door, as when that artless though dangerously re- sourceful person had consulted him in the matter, he was busy with other things and had playfully thrown at him that this was to be a full-dress occasion and to “‘go ahead and do his damnedest!” t Which it seems, he did. But to do him justice, when approached playfully the next day on the subject of “presenting a pagan priest to a Christian congregation,” he was eager to explain with pains and particularity that he had carefully selected from such oriental garments as he had in his trunk only such as symbolized spiritualism without dogma and which consequently belonged by right to west as well as east. Christianity had a right to all the lofty symbolism there was, he (Continued on page 88)

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ife ough urse, 1otes 1 the pped , for had once. sreat en I ont finishing ARNISH plays a high- ly important part in the finishing of any home. The information given in this book about varnish, is some- thing that everyone ought to have. A lot of good, prac- tical suggestions are also made for home finishing. quality that the house owner should make sure that the varnish used has quality and reputation behind it. This book will help you judge the quality of “Little Blue Flag” Varnishes. Write for this book today and ask the name of your local dealer in Lowe Brothers paints, Mellotone, enamels and Lowe Brothers “Little Blue Flag” Var- nishes. The Lowe Brothers Co. 480 E. Third St., Dayton, Ohio Boston Jersey Cit Chicago Kansas City | .. .. Lowe Brothers, Ltd. Toronto, Canada Varnishes vary so greatly in | MY BEAUTY EXERCISES Will make you look Younger and more Beautiful than all the external treatments you might use for a lifetime. 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>> J E Would be greatly helped in | making the arrangements for her | Wedding. the Wedding Breakfast, || the Entertainment of the Bridal | Party ete. by recerving our Weddin I Suggestions which will be sen free on request. mw > WS (3) 628 Fifth Ave. New York. Visitors to New York City always welcome Established in 1839 olf b YAK See brocaded silk. VS ; b= pA Hughes Importer and Maker Gowns 7 Gal lear Coats Blouses Latest Model Frock of Navy Imperial Serge and Black Satin, trimmed Oriental Embroidery. Colors Black, Navy, Green and Seal; sizes 32 to 42 bust measure. $60.00 (Value $85.00) 27 West 46th Street, New York City JUST OFF FIFTH AVENUE Harper's Basar, September, 1914 | Letters to a Husband from a Worn-out Wife (Continued from page 86) insisted. He wished he had time to explain, but it was difficult to interpret the Orient in the clumsy phrasing of occidental tongues. We were glad to know all this, for every reason, and indeed, in any event, it would have been particularly hard to find serious fault with a man who, after putting himself to great pains, had resented even a mention of compensation for his services. Besides neither of the parties most concerned seemed to find anything to criticize, which was a comfort. Of course, Jack made the honorarium to Mme. Fournette with a view to pleasing old mother Haldane. Money was positively no object, and when a man with no cost to him- self can honestly make two women supremely happy—why not? And it is fair to suppose that the groom from Montana duplicated her honorarium, for at the precise place in the second ceremony where she had sung in the first, the Gipsy gave us in fine form, Rubinstein’s delightful interpretation of Heine’s “Thou Art Like a Lovely Fower”—gave it in English transla- tion, too, for which I was sorry, although I was probably the only person present who was vulgar enough to apply the words personally to the beaming bride and to run a troublesome mind swiftly through an interminable list of familiar flowers, and without result. Let it not be supposed, however, that the happy bride from Montana, while perhaps unfit to measure up as a flower, failed in any particular as to full bridal dress, correct and elegant; although the ultracritical might have questioned its fitness for so necessarily un- conventional an occasion, but this would have been because they were sentiment-blind and unworthy witnesses of a ceremony of high romance. Even before the quiet departure of the first bridal party, a brilliant line of automobiles had begun to assemble at the entrance of the Sanitarium and guests from afar streamed into the chapel, even while the posted notices of ‘general invitation” were crowding it beyond its doors, so that rosetted ushers in evening dress, Drs. Welborn and others of the younger members of the staff, were kept busy clearing the way for the bridal party, the majestic bride striding measuredly in her place in full regalia, veil, orange-flower and train, yes, and even a train-bearer, a fairy of five, whom I succeeded in borrowing for the occasion from the wife of one of the resident doctors. The Butte wished it thus, not that she or her Willie cared a rap, she assured me, but she had had that ‘‘weddin’ outfit’”’ so long, and a girl could wear orange-blossoms only once. Then, too, it would be something worth telling about and even showing, in time: “mother in her bridal dress’”—one never could tell. Of course, she would have the picture taken the first thing, in New York. 88 **‘NAY, HER FOOT SPEAKS’’ The new gaiter boot has a patent leather vamp and faun cloth uppers. A black satin vamp slipper with aluminum cloth quarters sparkles from steel bead trimmings. The exclusive Cammeyer Elektra slipper is made of patent leather with tops of pearl ray suede trimmed with rhinestone and cameo buckle. The exclusive Cammeyer Eicktra boot has the patent leather vam laced boot has the patent leather vamp an mings. An imported French sandal is of black and gold brocaded satin. A new button boot on the French last has a patent leather vamp and black and white striped uppers. Another Paris novelty is the openwork sandal of white and silver Courtesy of Cammeyer and tops of gray broadcloth. A new tops of faun cloth with faun suede trim- This last wish, however, I easily saw to it that she should realize without delay, for it needed only a hint to the good lady of the Boston bag to have her whip out a camera and “a package of flash-light,”’ and, at the psycho- logical moment, the thing was done in a wink —done from the choir-gallery of the chapel, just as the bride turned smiling from the altar beside her man. And so it happened that the crowning spectacular event of the evening was the sen- sational marriage of the young lady of Butte which came as a flash of light from a clouded sky, and when the honking cortege finally disappeared, a blaze of glory along the beach- road, and the nine-days’-wonder of it all had been whispered out in the corridors and on the roof, the sanitarium settled down into a dead calm. Poor Butte! She has had a romantic if sad and spectacular life up to this. If only I could tell you her story! And his—her Willie’s!—what difficulties they had sur- mounted, and what they are even now setting out to accomplish, God help them! He—Mr. Winchester, to be decent—was delighted with everything and insisted on paying for things promiscuously, but, of course, again, Jack could not fail the lady Haldane. He did relent, however, to the extent of taking him into his confidence as to the official reporter fee and all, with the result that the press of east and west, from Maine to Cali- fornia, was supplied with distinguished no- tices written on a duplicate order by the radiant Joke-man, whose name for the nonce it seems high time to be writing with a capital, and who resembled nothing so much as a mi- gratory grin, as he circulated officially at both functions. At double weddings, I believe, both cere- monies are incorporated in a single service; thus, the affair at Seafair was not strictly of this class, and yet when my friends of that kindly institution insisted on calling this a triple wedding, inasmuch as the matron-of- honour in her yellowing wedding-dress had not to them been married until the great occasion, I accepted it with blushing apology while old Dr. Jacques, who is a saint if there ever was ene, took my side like a man while he ex- plained how it wasn’t my fault in the least, but kad all come about through a slight in- advessence on the part of their clerk, who had misunderstood on my arrival. And then having the floor, he went on to assure us that Miss Butterfield’s marriage had been pending ever since her admittance and had only awaited his professional permission, which had gone into the mail to her people only the day before the unexpected appearance of the groom, so that, all other things ar- ranged, he had no right to interpose objection; (Continued on page go)

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el “Ay All Good Shops”’ i is Florine Veil, depicted above, is one of the new Van Raalte } creations. It has an almost invisible mesh, which is cool, soft and feels nice bs: to the face. “Florine” is distinctive. “es Plain or figured ground, § Wonderful variety, to suit 3 as your individual choice —_—_ every face and every oc- a may dictate, and many _casion and delight every e). beautiful colors. Van _ taste. Van Raalte Veils stretch without tearing, will wash, and outwear three ordi- nary veils. Co van waalTe MAKE) For Your Protection— this little white ticket is on every yard. Look for it. ta Raalte Veils are indis- pensable to the woman who would be correctly attired. ¥ “ White for “The Witching Veil.” It shows many charming Y Van Raalte Veils and tells how to wear and care for them. Sh E.& Z. VAN RAALTE 100; Fifth 4 New York, ZA Harper's Bazar, September, 1014 CRETONNE IN A NEWROLE McGibbon & Co. are showing an assortment of useful little cretonne covered articles. crescent shaped jewelry box sells for $1.95. A roll for linens with strap to hold each piece in place is priced 50c. The A gaily covered box which may be tucked away in the bottom of the wardrobe or bureau drawer holds 12 pair of stockings, and is $1.95. Letters to a Husband from a Worn-out Wife (Continued from page 88) after which, with a twinkle in his kindly old eye such as I had never seen there before, he laughingly added that while no doubt he seemed to us an unsuspicious, easily gulled old codger, he was in fact the custodian of so many vital secrets that he sometimes felt like a walking arsenal, and was half afraid to go near the fire lest he should blow up, and then, where would we all be? So, again, was he right, dear Mr. Longfellow: “Things are not what they seem. Well, so ended my brief but strenuous pursuit of the Rest Cure, for in the dead calm of my week of probation, I was ready meekly, contritely and obediently to fold my hands and take all my orders from Jack, who got them from Dr. Jacques, of course, with the resu't that, on my return home, I looked so renewed and was so conspicuously able with- out fatigue to resume the comparative tran- quillity of social life as it is lived in semi-gay New York that several of Jack’s friends have already sent their nerve-racked wives to this Haven of Repose with the cogent argument that “‘it stands to reason that when a woman is worn out with a thousand things, there’s nothing like a negative existence—still, col- ourless days with tranquillizing surroundings— to bring her through, nothing, in fact, like a cocoon for the recovery of wings.’ And when they talk that way, Jack and I avoid each other’s eyes. After a first little fling with our friends, we have settled down, and we are really living more quietly, The War more sanely than in the old days, taking stated times off from social things and getting into the open as much as possible, with sky- spaces for tranquil thinking and stillness in which to learn to possess our souls. The summer cottage in its garden by the sea is ready for us, its vine-clad veranda fairly blooming itself away in anticipation of our com- ing, but we delay going this season because we are secretly on a still hunt in town for some- thing very near our hearts; and so, in the long evenings now, while Jack knits his brow over some perplexing point in the brief he is trying to write, on his side of the library table, and the canaries drowse in their little cage, one on the nest and the man-bird chirp- ing an occasional sleepy assurance of guardian- ship beside her, Jack glances over his glasses and smiles at them and then he turns to me. So he did last night and seeing me bending to my task of braiding pink ribbons over and under the rim of a great basket beside me he bit his lip and flung at me: “What’s all that about, looks very pretty. And I answered merrily: “You're cheating, Jack. You promised not to look tillit’sdone. But it’s the bassinet, if you must know. Pink is for girls, Jack.” And we are very happy, even when it is dark night and raining outside, for we know that beyond the rain and above the clouds, ‘God’s in His heaven, All’s right with the world.” Blessibus? It and Newport (Continued from page 13) ground. This was the first time, of course, that the “‘singing waltz” had been given in this country. The dancers, however, gave it in Paris at a wonderful ball given by George Kessler, in honour of the President of France. There it was given at midnight in a walled garden, with coloured lights playing on the dancers and on the marvelous fountains which are Mr. Kessler’s great pride. In the midst of strenuous preparations for the Chinese ball, for which three hundred in- vitations had been sent out by Mrs. Belmont, part of a day at least was snatched for the Indian Fete on the Gillespie lawn. It was as though the spirit of the honourable an- cestors, which had been carrying all before it on the way to Marble House, had been over- come half way up the avenue at Lawrence Gillespie’s lawn by the spirit of the redman. For a few victorious hours the wigwam cer- tainly hid the honourable dragon. Everything that had been Chinese for weeks suddenly became Indian. The high-pitched ting-ling of the orchestras everywhere changed to the fascinating monotony of war-dance rhythm and heavily embroidered mandarins gave way to blanket and feathers. Mrs. Gillespie’s father, Mr. William Watts Sherman, for years before his death gave a great deal of time and money toward the pre- servation of the Historical Society. So, in sentiment and inherited interest, Mrs. Gillespie opened her grounds to the gaily striped tents of the occasion and with an unprecedented list of patronesses bid the colony meet in the interest of a fireproof treasure-house for its historical souvenirs. Mrs. French Vanderbilt, in a filmy, mid- summer flowered model, girdled with hip sash of black, and with a flower-covered crown on a smart narrow-brimmed hat, received near the tea tables with Mrs. Gillespie, who, ever smart in her becomingly extreme models, wore a black silk and net costume with one of her wide, stiff-rimmed and aigrette- trimmed hats, that so becomingly foil her light hair. Mrs. Fish, Mrs. Oelrichs.and the other luncheon guests were the first to be received, ' but the arriving throng was close on their heels, and in an hour the grounds were gay with parasols, and chic femininity in amazing Paris frocks, escorted by all the distinguished New York, Newport and diplomatic service beaux, together with the young secretaries of the legations who were conspicuously pleasing in their devotions. Kurt von Lersner was faithful to the eight Greek dancers to the point of recording their Praxitilian poses on the lens of his pocket camera. They were a charming bit for the film too. Clinging white, with silver walls of ivory, is as becoming to Mildred Rives as her long snug white sweater, belted in with a wide white canvas girdle fastened in front with leather straps. One did miss her dogs, which had no place in Carthage, and which after all belong so essentially to the smart sweater costume. Elizabeth Sands lived the poses of ancient Greece with the same grace that distinguishes her tango and maxixe, and with pretty little Edith Hunter “coming out’ next week and Annie Powell announcing her engagement, the group had a lively interest for any diplomat’s camera. “Gay with Parasols” is literal, for never have sun shades taken unto themselves such fantastic shapes and such a variety of colours as this season. The Casino daily sees the triumphant march of the parasols—from quaint little flat ones, edged with fringe, like Mrs. Henry Pierpont Perry’s which she carries smartly, handle down, to deep semi-spherical ones with points upturned like a Chinese Temple roof. There is everything in texture from paper to real lace, and serviceable or perishable, they are always beautiful. The black velvet one lined with dazzling white that drives the avenue behind a blue- ribbon pair, securely protecting a lady’s face, could have no duplicate this side of Auteuil. Mrs. Fish’s exquisite lace one, with a wide becomingly drooping flounce, frames in her smart hats in a most picturesque way, an Mrs. Samuel Dallam carries a real Japanese one, flat with many sticks at the top of its long straight handle. Mrs. Herbert Harri- man, acknowledging the values of black and white, has a smartly tailored plain white one.

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the New Gaiter- Boot This exclusive new boot is an ex- tremely stylish combination of gaiter and street shoe. Above the beauti- fully modelled vamp of patent leather with smart plain toe and modish Cuban Louis heel is the gaiter-high top, made of buckskin, finished in gray or faun and buttoned with gaiter buttons. Not only has it pronounced origi- nality, but also comfort, and ex- quisite workmanship throughout. Price, $12.00 Our Fall and Winter correct shoe catalog will be gladly sent. painstaking mail-order department insures correct selection. Thayer MeKil ompany, BOSTON, MASS. AM pee Wy, Zs D> 47 Temple Place. 004: Suen A 15 West Street. by, € ZS *, if wOS = 2 ~~ A New Novel | by the Author of THE INNER SHRINE : The if : LETTER of the | By Basil King | Face to face with one of the greet- N est problems of the day stand the hero and heroine of Mr. King’s new novel. They learn at last the * truth—that while the law must ife take count of the letter, the hu- || man heart is spiritually elastic. | shing The severing of their marriage tting contract could not put an end to fs _sky- their love whose roots went too nl — deep. Brave in its honesty and (G y the tender in its uncovering of human ( fairly weakness is this story. > 0) ‘com- : NN se we Illustrated some- P | sg a ‘ost 8vo, Cloth, $1.00 net : brow ) ef he brary little *hirp- dian- lasses O me ng to r and ne he ? It L THE LIGHTS ws ARE B sinet, RE RIGHT it is know By ouds, Louise Kennedy Mabie A story of industrial intrigue with, curiously enough, a lovable and altogether feminine woman as the central figure—a new > my type of modern fiction. Full of azing the spirit and significance of the ished Great Lakes is this new novel “ba by the author of “ Wings of ously Pride” — of their beauty and im- cht portance. elg ° : their Frontispiece — Post 8vo, Cloth, $1.25 net walls yes as with front THE PRICE dogs, which mat OF LOVE d the grace aad By Arnold Bennett ncing terest Love and youth—a mystery and aa a solution. Mr. Bennett’s master ak hand brings up before us _ so olours vivid a portrayal of scenes and ‘ the characters, that one seems to be i: Tike moving among real people rather arries than reading of creatures of the ae author’s imagination. It is a aie story in the true sense of the ole or word — and a story of real dra- sling matic interest. Z. blue- Illustrated ool P..st 8vo, Cloth, $1.35 net _ wide n - , an i HARPER of its Ee. Harri- nna ead BROTHERS e 0 . Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 Plain Colors “VIYELLA” Reg’d Flannel New Fall Designs for 1914 “VIYELLA” can be obtained at all leading retail stores Specially adapted for Women’s waists, suits, dressing gowns Children’s school dresses Infants’ layettes “VIYELLA” comes in a large range of designs including Stripes Tartan Plaids Avoid substitutes DOES NOT SHRINK | Tm heii tied URS may be ordered by mail from this long-established house as easily and safely as by a per- sonal visit to the Lamson & Hubbard W| retail store in Boston. Simply write for ‘“‘The Theatre of Fur Fashion’’—a beautiful book il- lustrating by actual photographs a fascinating variety of furs and fur garments. Styles are authentic from our own Fashion representatives in Paris and London. Every article bearing our label is backed by the Lamson & Hubbard prestige that is a result of generations of honest dealing with the shoppers of Boston and New England. Despite the richness and quality, Lamson & Hubbard fur prices are moderate. For exam- ple: A splendid Black Fox set consisting of large, single-animal scarf, with rounded back, head, tail and paws; large muff; both lined with fine quality satin, complete, $37.50. Muff alone, $21.00. Scarf alone, $16.50. Illustration above shows same style set in genuine Black Lynx for $70.00. Muff alone, $42.00. Scarf alone, $28.00. It may also be had in a Black Wolf set for $30.00. Muff alone, $18.00. Scarf alone, $12.00. The Lamson & Hubbard Guarantee, as well as the high reputation of this House, assures absolute satisfaction. Your money will be cheerfully returned if you are not satisfied. Furs will be sent on approval, without pre- vious payment, if you will give as reference any National Bank or reputable business house Write today for “The Theatre of Fur Fashion." Lamson & Hubbard 111 Bedford Street Boston, Mass. This Lady's superb coat of Hudson Seal or Seal-dyed Muskrat is modestly priced at $125. Made of spe- cially selected skins of great lustre and beauty; 45 in. long lined with rich bro- cade; notched collar, 4 in. cuffs. This coat is light in weight but extremely warm and stylish. OUT

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Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 Harpers Bazar Helps the Purchasing Agent of the Household From address before Associated Advertis- ing Clubs of the World, Toronto, June 23, 1914, by Mrs. Christine Frederick. ¥. is hard for many people to realize to what extent the American woman has by common consent become the general purchasing agent of the family. She is educated from childhood to the art of purchasing. She is more important here as a spender than in any other country of the world. In order to get some real facts regarding women as purchase vs, an actual test of New York families, in which I assisted, was made some time ago under the direction of Dr. Hollingsworth of Columbia University. It showed that women alone buy 48.4 per cent of all merchandise for family use, and have an important voice in 23 per cent more. This is a total of 71 per cent. The investigation we made in department stores showed that 8o per cent of purchases in department stores are made by women. This investigation showed such interesting things as the fact that women even buy 11.2 per cent of men’s clothing, and they help men buy 22.9 per cent. In other words, women are responsible, directly or indirectly, for 34 per cent of the purchases of men’s clothing. Just think, you independent men, 34 per cent of the clothes you are wearing have practically been chosen for you by women! I mention this to indicate the complete extent to which family purchases have been turned over lo women in this country. By assisting women to perform more earnestly and capably the important role of chief dispenser of the family funds — By selecting and presenting the announcements of high class houses engaged in the distributing of reputable, desirable goods— By bringing the markets to you, by giving you a greater variety, a finer choice and more certain values— In such manner Harper’s Bazar acts as a buying guide, a preceptor and teacher in the art of getting your money’s worth. Your attention is called to the high class business announcements in the advertising section of The Bazar. If you like what you read in The Bazar, you will like what you buy from it—all is of high calibre.

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PERFECT COFFEE wa 95% OF fe cA KAFFEEHAG % OF THE CAFFEINE REMOVED Some people think the caffeine in coffee makes it taste good— it’s all wrong, caffeine is practically without taste, odor or color. KAFFEE HAG is genuine bean coffee of unsurpassed flavor and aroma with 95’ of the highly injurious drug caffeine removed. Packed in sealed parchment bags inside of sealed tins, KAFFEE HAG comes to the table with all its delightful fragrance and flavor. You never drank coffee that tasted better than KAFFEE HAG. IN THE BEAN ONLY 25 cents the package—all dealers if your dealer cannot supply KAFFEE HAG send 25 cents to Kaffee Hag Corporation and a package will be sent postpaid Harper's Basar, September, 1914

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THE WOMAN WHO CAME IN THE NIGHT The first of an anony- mous series by the pastor of a great metropolitan church, «A Minister’s Ex- periences with Women,” in the September WOMAN'S HOME COMPANION 15c. on al] news-stands PAQUIN OF PARIS the world’s greatest fashion authority, has created for the American Woman the ideal smart every-day dress for Autumn. This exclusive design was made expressly for the Sep- tember Fashion Forecast Number of the WOMAN'S HOME COMPANION 15c. on all news-stands Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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Harper’s Bazar Top Illustration Afternoon frock of asnge in neve or black, sleeves and underskirt of satin, soft satin gir- dle elaborated with metal embroidery. col- lar of embroidered Georgette crepe... 19.60 Left Illustration Frock of popular serge and satin combina- tion, satin trimm overdress in pinafore effect, underskirt of satin, collar and cuffs Shopping Service ANY hundreds of women, knowing the ad- vantages of buying in New York, have come to appreciate the earnestness, cleverness and helpfulness of this service—whose sole purpose is to serve—faithfully. In its capacity as a great fashion magazine, Harper’s Bazar necessarily is in touch with all that is newest and best in the great metropolitan market. Being devoted to styles it is natural the Bazar should know where to locate the finest fashions of the great city. The illustrations show New Autumn model of useful top coat of Scottish tweed in mixture and plaid effects, very striking i cisescaccccsnsbcstepianese $19.60 Smart outing hat of Scotch Felt in Hahe green, brown mixture an reddish heather, two-tone gros- grain ribbon band............ $7.60 tailored of stiff white linen. Hague blue, brown and ¢green.......... Right Illustration Street suit of gabardine, effectively modeled in new lines, well tailored and _ tri d shown in navy, black, brown and hunter’s BTCC... cccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccseseces $29.60 special recommend. Please order through the Bazar, and write us at any time for anything required from New York. No charge for our service JANE JARVIS Director HARPER’S BAZAR *‘Personal Shopping Service’’ 1100 Publishers Building In navy, black. $12.76 trimmed, peeves : S : y | HIS shopping service is an adjunct of Har- per’s Bazar, conducted for the benefit and guidance of Bazar readers and friends—for all women in fact who choose to make use of it. May we not be helpful to you? Because of authority and prestige, Bazar shoppers have peculiar advantages. No doors are closed to them—the great stores and specialty shops extend a hearty welcome. Hence, because of our interest and our knowledge, we are doubly fitted to shop for you and to please you to the uttermost. numbers that we Fine voile waist, front trimmed with tucking and Valenciennes insertion, collar and cuffs of finely plaited organdie.............. -. New York Harper's Bazar, September, 1914

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( TZAGOETZAGOET Z Titii Pitti —_—~ } iD ill Tz) 2. AGOETZiSGOETZ 4GOETZ AG OETZMGOETZ“G0E } / wiGOETZMGOET er | j a ey ates, rte ee Se te — ee Ce MS ey we aie, 3 9n. . “3 > GCOETZIMGOETZ AGOETZiMNGOETZ Df \ 7190301271909. 213050 Harper's Bazar, September, 1914 IGOETZAGOETZSGCOETZIAGOETZ 4G FIBZODBZLIONFZLIOWZLIAOIVZLIOVIe 90 ( ZLAOBDMZLAOIMZLIAOIM ZLZGODMZLAOBNZLIAOBMHMZ1LAODH ZLAOBHZLA0O3BL PECL ESECEERFECEL This Label Settles the Lining Question When you see this label in any coat or suit, you may be sure that the lining is the best that the maker could put into that garment—that there is absolutely no question as to its quality and the §) service it will give. are strictly high-grade linings— whether Satin or Peau de Cygne. They are linings that you are proud to expose to critical gaze, in any company, however dis- tinguished. Furthermore, the fact that a coat or suit is Goetz*-lined is a pretty good indication that the rest of the garment is also correct and trustworthy in every detail. Always ask for the garment with the Goetz Lining and, to be on the safe side, look for the silk woven Goetz Guarantee Label. GOETZ SILK MFG. CO. Madison Avenue and 34th Street New York ***Gets’’ 1D

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A New Gallery at the Hampton Shops F you are in New York this Fall, pray accept a most cordial invitation to visit our New Gallery for Furnishing Suggestions. Included therein is a series of rooms designed in strict accord with architectural precedent and so harmoniously fitted and deco- rated that they supply an unex- ampled opportunity to display, against suitable backgrounds and amid such tasteful surroundings, any one piece or any complete set you may care to select from among our Hampton Shops Reproduc- tions. IZLIODMZLION Our Furniture is to be seen only in our New York Galleries. Sanipton Shans 34 and 36 West 32d St., New York Between Fifth Ave., and Broadway 21£2309621309''21307:- ' we = Dwr ee Pot Berry -h= C1 0 m “| N + 0 m ~4 " a 0 m ond N ol 0 Mm + N co 0 m = ™N bed i ed Wh) Pre 7 TIT ih AGU CTT (CUT OT ME UAT Ming ‘UMM aie Tinh me ai Me iZLAO3 4

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